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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:43:56 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:43:56 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/14213-0.txt b/14213-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8cfe7fb --- /dev/null +++ b/14213-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2393 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14213 *** + +[Transcriber's Note: At the conclusion of this diary, the author writes: +"If these notes should ever be written out by my relations after my +death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the many mistakes in +spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of the writing, may by +corrected and not set down to ignorance." The relations may indeed have +corrected many errors, but many remain, and they have been left as in +the original.] + + + + +THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE. + + +A DIARY + +OF THE LATE J.F. FOSTER, ASSISTANT-SURGEON, HER MAJESTY'S 36TH FOOT. + + + + +_Edited by LIZZIE A. FREETH._ + + +GUERNSEY: +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, 10, BORDAGE STREET. +LONDON: SIMPKIN & MARSHALL +1873. + + + + +I DEDICATE, + +_Firstly,_ + +MY GRATITUDE TO GOD-- +FOR HIS MERCY IN PRESERVING ME THUS FAR, +AND BRINGING ME SAFELY HOME AFTER +SEVERAL YEARS SERVICE IN INDIA, +TO MEET AGAIN ALL (SAVE ONE) THOSE MOST +DEAR TO ME. + +_And Secondly,_ + +MY BOOK TO MY PARENTS, +WITH THE CERTAIN AND HAPPY KNOWLEDGE +THAT THEY WILL READ WITHOUT CRITICISM +AND ONLY WITH AFFECTIONATE INTEREST, +THE ACCOUNT OF MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES +WHILE WANDERING IN A REMOTE +AND LOVELY CORNER OF +THE EARTH. + + + + +EDITOR'S PREFACE. + + +In laying the following pages before the public, I do so with a feeling +that they will be read with interest, not only by those who knew the +writer, but those to whom the scenes described therein are known, and +also those who appreciate a true description of a country which they may +never have the good fortune to see. We are all familiar with Kashmir in +the "fanciful imagery of Lalla Rookh," at the same time may not object +to reading an account--with a ring of truth in it--of that lovely land, +lovely and grand, beyond the power of poets to describe as it really +is, so travellers say. Readers will see that Mr. Foster intended to have +published this Diary himself had he been spared to reach England, he has +offered any apology that is necessary, so I will say nothing further +than to state, the daily entries were kept in a pocket-book written in +pencil, occasionally a word is not quite legible, that will account for +any little inaccuracy. After being two years at Elizabeth College, +Guernsey, under the Rev. A. Corfe, Mr. Foster entered St. George's +Hospital, as Student of Medicine, he received there in his last year the +"Ten Guinea Prize" for General Proficiency. From St. George's he went to +Netley, and on leaving that he served for a short time in Jersey, with +the 2nd Battallion 1st Royals, and 1st Battallion 6th Royals, after +which he embarked for India, where from February, 1868, to the beginning +of 1869, he served with the following Regiments, &c., 91st Highlanders, +at Dum Dum; F Battery C. Brigade Royal Horse Artillery, at Benares; 27th +Inniskillings, at Hazareebagh, Bengal Depôt, Chinsurah; Detachment 58th +Regiment, at Sahibgunge; Head-Quarters 58th Regiment, at Sinchal, again +at the Bengal Depôt Chinsurah; Head-Quarters 107th Regiment, at +Allahabad; Detachment 107th Regiment, at Fort Allahabad; G Battery 11th +Brigade Royal Artillery, at Cawnpore; Left Wing 36th Regiment, +Moradabad; Head-Quarters 36th Regiment, Peshawur, from whence +ultimately we find he started for Kashmir in the hope of regaining his +health, a vain hope as events proved, as he died on the passage home at +Malta. During the course of publication I have received many letters +from people who were personally acquainted with Mr. Foster who had met +him at home and abroad, from the tone of which letters I gather he was +held in the highest possible estimation as a friend, a medical man, and +an officer. I am indebted to the kindness of his father, Dr. John L. +Foster, of this island, for being allowed to publish these interesting +memorials of one who had now passed "To where beyond these voices there +is peace." + +LIZZIE A. FREETH. +Montpellier, Guernsey, Nov. 1873. + + + + +AUTHOR'S PREFACE. + + +This Work requires few prefatory remarks. I have transcribed without +alteration, the Diary that I kept during my visit to Kashmir. It may +seem a strange jumble of description and sentiment, jocularity and +seriousness. During the greater part of each day I enjoyed perfect rest, +smoking and thinking--sometimes soberly, often I fear idly--and for mere +occupation sake, my thoughts were written as they arose. My mind as +influenced by scene or incident, is fully exposed in these pages, and +while I have concealed nothing, neither have I added to that which I +originally indited. I am necessarily, and indeed intentionally +egotistical, because I write for those who will chiefly value a personal +narrative. Still, I am not ashamed if others see my book, although I +would deprecate their criticism by begging them to remember that I only +offer it for the perusal of those near and dear to me. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +In the early morning of Midsummer's-day, 1868, I might have been seen +slowly wending my way towards the office of the Deputy Inspector General +of Hospitals, at Peshawur--for the purpose of appearing before the +standing Medical Committee of the station, and having an enquiry made +concerning the state of my health. A Dooley followed me lest my strength +should prove inadequate to the task of walking a quarter of a mile. But +let me make my description as short as the Committee did their enquiry. +My face, as white as the clothes I wore, told more than my words could, +and I was hardly required to recount how that one burning May-day I was +called at noon to visit a sick woman, and that while all other Europeans +were in their closed and darkened bungalows with punkahs swinging, and +thermautidotes blowing cool breezes, I went forth alone on my medical +mission to encounter the fierce gaze of the baneful sun, and was +overpowered by its fiery influence, or how that I laid a weary month on +the sick bed, tormented by day with a never ceasing headache, and by +night with a terrible dread, worse than any pain, or to conclude, how +the deadly climate of that notoriously evil station afforded me no +prospect of improvement. This relation was scarcely needed to procure +me a certificate, stating that three months leave of absence to Murree +was absolutely essential for my recovery, and a recommendation that I +might be allowed to proceed immediately in anticipation of the leave +being granted. So the next evening saw me start from Peshawur for Rawul +Pindee, in a Dâk Gharie, accompanied by my dog "Silly" and my Madrapee +servant or "Boy." Onwards we sped at a gallop, the horses being changed +every six miles, through Nowshera, the furnace; over the rapid and icy +cold Indus by boat; past Fort Attock, the oven in which our soldiers are +done to death; and Hussan Aboul of Lallah Rooke celebrity; arriving at +the French Hotel at Pinder, ten miles from Peshawur the following +morning. That day I called upon the Officers of the 6th Foot, with whom +I had served in Jersey, and was persuaded to dine at mess. A melancholy +dinner it was for me, meeting old friends whom I had not seen for so +long. Yet not possessing energy enough for conversation or feeling the +spirit of "Hail fellows, well met." I felt that my moody silence and +ghostlike appearance (for I was dressed in black) threw a gloom over +them. This was no doubt a morbid fancy as also was perhaps the idea that +they looked at me with pitying eyes. But these feelings seized me, and +increased till they became unbearable, and I was glad to escape to my +Hotel. + + + + +"THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE." + +A DIARY. + + +JULY 4th, 1868.--Started from Murree for Kashmir at 5.30 a.m. Bell, +Surgeon 36th Regt. [Since deceased] came with me four miles. Walked on +expecting the dandy to overtake me, but it did not, and I marched all +the way, nine miles up a steep hill to Khaira Gullee, where I halted and +put up in one of the old sheds formerly used by the working party when +the road was being made. I am not tired, though my left heel is +blistered, which is fair considering I have not walked half a mile for +more than a month. The road is excellent and the scenery fine, the Khuds +being sometimes deep, but nothing like the eastern Himalayas. The forest +too is quite different, fir trees predominating here. Saw many beautiful +birds, and regretted I had not brought my gun. In the evening a +thunderstorm came on with a cold wind from the north, so I made a good +fire with a few fir logs. In the middle of the night the storm became +very violent, and large hailstones fell. + + +JULY 5th.--Got away at sunrise, the rain having quite cleared off, and +marched on to Doonga Gullee, up a hill to an elevation of 9,000 feet, +and then down again to about 7,000; then up a final steep to Doonga +Gullee, 8,000 feet above the sea. The Khuds much grander very deep and +precipitous, sometimes falling one or two thousand feet from the edge of +the road almost perpendicularly. But the hills are too close together to +allow the valleys to be termed magnificent. Reached Doonga Gullee at 10 +a.m. The length of last march, eleven miles--the road, a good military +one, has been cut in the face of the mountain. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, and dined with the officers of the working party; among them +Heath, of the 88th, and Leggatt and Lyons, of the 77th, whom I knew. A +number of tents are pitched here for the working parties from the 19th +and 77th Regiments (road making). I was carried part of the march in my +dandy--a piece of carpet gathered at each end and hooked to a pole,--the +pole being carried on the shoulders of two men. I swung below it just +off the ground, and could often look down a vast depth between my knees. +My first pickled tongue, cooked the day before yesterday was fly-blown +at breakfast this morning. This may seem a trifling note, but it is +ominous I fear for the whole of my salted stores. + + +JULY 6th.--Got up at 4 o'clock and marched on to Bugnoota, a distance +of thirteen miles. The first four miles a slight rise, and then a rapid +descent all the rest of the way. The road is much narrower, only a mule +track in fact, I walked twelve miles, and then felt tired, and had a +headache afterwards. Pitched my tent in a tope, (a grove of trees) in +company with Dr. and Mrs. Holmes, of Rohat, whom I did not know. Slight +rain in the middle of the day, but it cleared off towards evening. Felt +all right after an hour's sleep and took a stroll before dinner. Scenery +grand, tent pitched on the edge of a deep gorge at the bottom of which +is a mountain stream, the hills rising abruptly on the opposite side. + + +JULY 7th.--Marched on to Abbottabad at sunrise, down hill to the river, +and then along its course for two miles over very rough and fatiguing +ground, the river having to be forded twice. In rainy weather this is +very dangerous as its rush is so impetuous. Up hill again then down into +the plain of Abbottabad, 4,000 feet above the sea. Distance twelve miles +though only put down eight in the route. Met the General at the bottom +of the hill. Put up at the Dâk Bungalow, and met Ford, 88th, and De +Marylski, R.A., returning from Kashmir, got some hints from them. +Abbottabad is a small cantonment on a large plain surrounded by bare +mountains, a notice is posted in my room warning travellers not to go +unarmed; so I'll gird on my Kookery to-morrow. A Kookery is a formidable +native knife, about eighteen inches long and over two inches wide, +carried in a peculiar way, sheep and goats heads come off very easily at +a single blow from it. Much hotter down here, the sun powerful after 10 +o'clock, but Punkahs not necessary. This is the Head-Quarters of the +Punjab Frontier force. A pity they do not have an English Regiment +stationed here as it is a very pleasant place as regards climate. Snow +in winter, and this the warmest time of the year quite bearable. +Brigadier gone to the _hills_ for the _hot weather._ Took in supplies of +bread and butter and purchased a pair of chuplus or sandals for +marching in, as boots hurt my feet. + + +JULY 8th.--A long tedious march of nearly fifteen miles to Mansera, put +down in the guide as a level plain road, but having a good many ups and +downs. One of my sandals broke, and I was obliged to ride in the dandy +about half way. Some difficulty occurred in getting my baggage off as +the Coolies did not come. Left my boy to manage it, he came in about +noon with two ponies, I shall not pay for them yet, and then they will +come on with me. A warmer day than yesterday. Mountains rising up in +front, which I shall begin to ascend to-morrow if I make the whole march +of twenty miles. Snow visible above all. The real work of the trip will +now soon commence. The marches hitherto have been child's play compared +with those to come. Mansera is only a native village, but there is a Dâk +Bungalow, in which I am now. Met Captain Ellis, of the 4th Hussars, +returning from Kashmir, and had a talk with him. There are _two_ routes +open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by +the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as +to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has +only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for +I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast +with the plains of India. + + +JULY 9th.--Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to +Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in +sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on. +First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an +undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking +owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it +as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to +Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance +rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by +high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting +of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at +the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank +of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension +bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I +look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are +two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have +not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell +all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under +flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of +ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a +small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight +feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin, +salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one +bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy +or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking +utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with +white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap, +tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into +Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voilà tout." For carrying this baggage, +I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable, +seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going +all the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day, +and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent some +Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian +fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without +much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as +of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant +music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time +in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been +altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen +and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few +men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate, +when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many experiences +to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully done up towards +the end of the march. At last we came to a running stream in which he +laid down and was much refreshed, before that his panting had become +gasping though he kept up with us bravely, only lying down for a moment +when we came to a little bit of shade--not often met with, the last +three or four miles. For the last day or two, I have been almost +continually in a cool, gentle perspiration, this is a great contrast to +my state when at Peshawur, where my skin was always as dry as a bone, +and I look upon that as a healthy symptom, I have had no headache since +I left Bugnostan. + + +JULY 10th.--To Mozufferabad nine miles, but apparently much more, such a +bad fatiguing march. I got away with the first grey of the dawn and +after a mile's tramp began the ascent of the Doabbuller pass, three and +a half miles long and very steep, so steep that I could often touch the +ground with my hands without stooping much. This was terribly exhausting +and I had to make many halts to recover my breath. Then began a rough +descent along the side of a mountain torrent and afterwards over its +bed, which is a narrow gorge between high hills. This walking was very +rough and difficult; the path being covered with great stones and often +undistinguishable. Indeed it was no path at all, only the ground +occasionally a little trodden. Through the stream, backwards and +forwards _innumerable_ times we went. I found that my feet, though naked +except where covered by the straps of the sandals, were able to take +care of themselves, and avoid contusion almost without the help of my +eyes. Then I came to a large and rapid river called the Kishun-gunga +crossed by a rope bridge. Let me describe the bridge. Three or four +leather ropes about one inch in diameter tied into a bundle to walk +upon, three feet above this, a couple of ropes, two feet apart, the +upper ropes connected to the lower one at intervals of four or five +yards by stakes. This formed a V shape, and you walk on the point of the +V and hold on by the two sides. The breadth of the river is sixty yards, +and the bridge which is high above the water forms a considerable curve. +The description of the bridge is easy enough, but how shall I describe +my feelings, when I had gone a few yards and found myself poised in +mid-air like a spider on a web, oscillating, swaying backwards and +forwards over a foaming and roaring torrent, the rush of the water if I +looked at my feet, made me feel as if I was being violently carried in +the opposite direction; the bridge swayed and jumped with the weight of +half a dozen natives coming from the opposite side whom I had to pass, +the whole thing seemed so weak and the danger so terrible that I turned +giddy, lost my head, and cried out to be held. A firm hand at once +grasped me behind and another in front. I shut my eyes and so proceeded +a few yards. Then those dreadful men had to be passed. Imagine meeting +a man on a rope fifty feet above a torrent and requiring him to "give +you the wall." However they were passed by a mysterious interlacing of +feet; and when half way over I regained confidence, and bid the men +"chando" or release me, and so gained the opposite bank, where I sat +down and roared with laughter at my "boy" who was then coming over, and +who evidently was much more affected than I was. However he arrived +safely with his black face _pale_, dripping with perspiration and saying +he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one +in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally +laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go +down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low +ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by +the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge, +for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow +built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves +the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet +weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's +Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from +him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book. +There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the +bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick. +It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream. +Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated +Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for +carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they +were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite side. +To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their +impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to certain +destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the whole +of this march, though often tired, as I preferred trusting my own legs +to being carried in the dandy over such bad ground. Curran, +Assistant-Surgeon, 88th Connaught Rangers, is one march in front of me. +He has left his pony here till he returns. I suppose the last march was +too much for him. I am very glad I did not bring my horse with me; I was +strongly advised to do so, but I am afraid advice has not much weight +with me; in this instance anyhow, my own opinion has proved the best. +All the men I meet coming back have horses with them, but they are +nearly all shoeless, lame and sick, and have not been ridden for weeks. + + +JULY 11th.--Marched on Hultian, distant seventeen miles. Much better +road than yesterday, but many ups and downs and short rough bits. +Started two hours before sunrise, by the light of the moon. The road +soon reached the right bank of the Jhelum and continued the whole +distance alongside of that river. It is a rapid river apparently not so +deep and often not so wide as the Kishun-gunga, its bed strewn with huge +boulders over which the water breaks in great waves of foam. It runs in +a narrow rocky channel the precipitous sides of which are a great +height. How many ages must it have taken to cut this channel in the +solid rock? The valley is bounded by high hills, very narrow, the road +so bare of trees, that the latter half of the march became hot and +wearying, so I had recourse to the dandy for four or five miles. But it +was rare gymnastic exercise as swinging from my pole I had to dodge the +great stones on either side of me and keep a sharp look out to avoid +hard bumps. My dog was again very much fatigued. His tail is a good +token of his state, for when fresh it is stiff along his back, and +gradually drops as he goes along until he is quite exhausted, when it +hangs straight down. Stopped at a Barahduree (not so good a one as the +last) a few feet above the Jhelum in which I bathed. There is a rope +bridge opposite, a much older one than the other I crossed, but not more +than half as long, and not high above the water, some of the ropes are +broken, and it seems very shaky. However, I must cross it to-morrow and +get into the Murree road, which runs parallel to this one, on the other +bank, and is on the shady side and much cooler. It has been very hot all +day. The reason I could not come the direct road from Murree is because +the ferry over the Jhelum lower down, was recently carried away and +twenty-six natives drowned. Sir G. Larpent's (of the 88th) baggage was +in the boat, and he lost it all. He had not crossed and had to go back +to Murree minus everything including servants. There is excellent +Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of +80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me, +and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do +anything but moon about. I did not then know the great exertion +necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily +infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with +an undertaker. Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and +supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must +keep to it and not cross as I intended. In the evening a slim young +native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, "a +present." I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and +plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below +the bungalow. He then went up the river again, and swam down to this +side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous +velocity. I gave him eight annas for it. + + +JULY 12th, "Sunday."--In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was +sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning +to rain, and I had to move into the house. It was broad daylight when I +was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed. I said it would rain, and +I would halt. My boy said, "No Sir, no rain." I said the sun would come +out and it would be burning hot. He said, "No Sir, no sun." I felt it +was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda, +eighteen miles, walking all the way. A hard march, nothing but steep +rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the +river, but two or three hundred feet above it. My Coolies pointed out to +me a herd of "chiken" on a very high hill, at least four miles away. I +saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to +very small objects, but did not dispute with them. They say uncivilized +man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far +higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect. Met three +men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them. Don't know who +they were. Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and +was delighted to see it was quite close to me. But alas! several weary +miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could +be reached. This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future +put no faith in appearances. The Barahduree here is a two storied one, +standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is +here confined in a very narrow channel. I took the upper room which has +three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which +there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains +being crowned with pine forests. Had neither sun nor rain while +marching, but soon afterwards the sun shone out, though heavy and +threatening clouds continued to hang about the horizon. As I write this +I hear the first roll of thunder, there will be another storm to-night. +The Maharajah's officials come to me at every stage to enquire my wants +and provide for the same. Other natives also come with an insane +request,--a medical prescription for a sick Bhai (or brother) who +always has fever, and is at a great distance. What possible use a +prescription could be to them I cannot decide. The storm came up just +before dinner, 6 p.m., and was rather sharp but soon over. I came up the +valley of the Jhelum, and I watched its course for some time before it +arrived. It subsequently struck the edge of the house and I was all +right; had it come down the valley which runs at right angles to the +Jhelum just opposite here I should have been blown out. I again noticed +that to which my attention has often been directed, viz.: that when in +or near the storm clouds, the thunder is of quite a different character +to that heard below. It is a continuous low muttering growl without any +claps or peals. I have stood in the storm cloud at Sinchal, 9,000 feet +high, with the lightning originating around me and affording the +sublimest spectacle of dazzling brilliancy, and varying in colour from +the purest white light to delicious rose and blue tints. I have seen it +intensified and focussed as it were within a few feet of me, and from +this centre angled lines and balls of fire like strings of beads +radiated in all directions. Yet the thunder which in the plains was +heard pealing and roaring its loudest, was up there barely audible. + + +JULY 13th.--From Kunda to Kuthin twelve miles of hard toiling over a +similar road to that of the last march, finishing with a long, steep, +and very rough ascent to the high plateau on which Kuthin stands. On the +top of this I took to my dandy and was carried a mile along the level to +the Barahduree, where I slept upon the charpoy which is provided at +every bungalow for the weary travellers to rest upon pending the arrival +of his baggage. These plateaus or table lands exist at intervals all the +way up the valley, sometimes on one side sometimes on the other and +occasionally on both the river in the middle. They are quite flat, very +small, and highly productive, and vary from fifty to three or four +hundred feet in height, above the river. The valley which widens where +they exist, is narrowed again at either extremity. I can only account +for their formation by supposing that at a former time, a chain of lakes +existed, of which they are the beds, and that the water subsequently +burst through and formed the channel of the present Jhelum, leaving +these beds dry as we now see them. Came across a number of large tailed +butterflies of a lovely green and blue metallic lustre. Secured an +un-injured specimen, and for want of a better place stuck it inside my +topee, where I expect to carry it safely until my return to Peshawur. +Another storm came on earlier than yesterday. I have been very lucky +hitherto, not having had a drop of rain while marching. This morning was +cloudy till within a mile or two of Kuthin when the sun shone and made +the last ascent doubly trying. This is a very small village (at Kunda +there was only one hut) but there is a mud fort with bastions at each +corner but no guns. The walls are loop-holed for musketry, but there +does not seem to be any garrison. On making enquiries, I find there is a +garrison of seven men. It is getting dusk and mosquitoes are coming out +by hundreds, they have not annoyed me before, but I think I must use my +net to-night. I lie on my bed after dinner smoking with a lighted candle +by my side. A hornet flies in and settles on my hand, then a large +beetle comes with a buzz and a thud against me, making me start. Sundry +moths, small flies, and beetles, are playing innocently round the flame. +In half an hour I shall be able to make a fair entomological collection +but as I neither (Ha! I've killed the hornet) desire them in my hat +dead, nor in my bed alive, I must put out the light, give up writing, +and smoke in darkness. + + +JULY 14th.--To Shadera, twelve miles walked all the way. The road worse +than ever, and for the last mile actually dangerous, as it passed along +the edge of a deep precipice, and was only a foot wide and considerably +out of the horizontal, so that a single false step would have been +fatal. Road continued same character all the way along, though much +above the tortuous and noisy Jhelum, and its ups and downs were the +roughest, longest, and most trying, I have yet experienced. I am pleased +to know that the remaining two marches will be, in the words of my +Coolies over "uch'-cha rasta," a good road. It remained cloudy and +threatening the greater part of the way, and a little rain fell, but +eventually the sun shone, though great masses of "cumuli" continue to +hang about. This is a small village completely shut in by three huge +hills standing very close together. Between the sides of the two in +front, the summit of a fourth is visible, a magnificent towering +mountain, covered with a dense pine forest. I have not seen the snows +since I crossed the Doobbullee pass, as we have been ascending the +valley of the Jhelum ever since, and the view is confined by its lofty +sides. I have eaten my last loaf for breakfast this morning, and now one +of the greatest privations of the journey will begin. No bread, nothing +but flour and water made into a kind of pancake, which the natives call +"chepattie." I have not tasted fresh meat since I left Abbottabad, but +that one can do very well without. I live upon fowls, eggs, milk, butter +and rice, with a tongue or hump, cooked when necessary. Two or three +miles from Kuthai, we passed a very pretty waterfall. The slender stream +fell over a smooth perpendicular rock, of a rich brown colour, 100 feet +high, like a thread of silver. Both sides of the gorge covered with a +variety of beautifully green trees, shrubs and ferns, altogether +constituting a delightful picture, the tints mingled so harmoniously, +yet with strong contrasts. Stopped at the Barahduree as usual, this one +surrounded with wild fig, plum, peach, pomegranate, and mulberry trees. +The mulberries only ripe, and like all wild fruit, small and +comparatively tasteless. + + +JULY 15th.--Started as soon as it was light for Gingle, fourteen miles +distant. Road greatly improved, hilly of course, but tolerably smooth so +that one could get on without clambering. About half way passed Dorie on +the left bank of the river, where there is another fort and a strong +rope bridge, it is one of the halts on the Murree road, farther on came +to an old ruin, four thick walls perforated by arches enclosing an open +square in the middle of two of the sides, large masses of masonry formed +archways or entrances. It is built of the rough stones and boulders with +which the surface of the ground is covered, yet the arches are of very +good shape. On the opposite bank of the Jhelum there are forests of +Deodar, but though they grow down to the waters edge, there is not one +on this side. (Larix Deodora, called by the Hindoos, "the God Tree" is a +stately pine, growing to a great height, and of a very gradual and +elegant taper. Its foliage is of the darkest green colour, and it gives +the mountains a very sombre appearance.) The hills have become much more +rugged and abrupt. I know of no single condition which gives a scene so +great an aspect of wildness and desolation, as dead fir trees. There +they stand on the most barren and inaccessible places, rearing their +gaunt and whitened forms erect as ever, and though lifeless yet not +decayed. Seared and blasted by a thousand storms, they stand stern and +silent, ghostlike and immoveable, scorning the elements. No wind murmurs +pleasantly through their dead and shrunken branches, the howling tempest +alone can make them speak, and then with wild straining shriek and harsh +rattle, they do battle with the whirlwind. It was getting hot and I was +thinking of my dandy, when a storm passed over with heavy rain. This was +a mitigated evil (if an evil at all for my bed remained dry, and a wet +bed is the worst result of a shower) as it rendered walking cool and +pleasant. It cleared up again, and I rode the last half mile. The +cleanest and best bungalow here I have been in since I left Ghuri. The +view down the valley is extremely pretty, hills rising one above the +other, but shut in on all other sides by high mountains. Gingle, which +is only one or two huts, stands on a small plateau a quarter of a mile +long by one hundred and fifty yards wide, fifty feet above the Jhelum. +The ground is laid out in paddy fields irrigated by a stream of the +coolest and purest water. It is a great satisfaction to be able to drink +water freely without fear. In the plains of India the water is so +contaminated as to be almost poisonous, and I do not think that previous +to this march I had drank a gallon of it since I landed in Calcutta. + + +JULY 16th.--Left Gingle with the earliest streak of dawn for Baramula, +an eighteen mile march. Road very much more level, never ascending high +above the river whose erratic course we continued to follow. Passed +through groves of hazel overrun by wild vines, but both grapes and nuts +as yet green. The plateaus become gradually larger and almost +continuous, and the hills separated and diminished in size, those on the +right being covered with the lank deodar, while those on the left +possessed only a bright green mantle of grass, far away in front they +altogether ended, and the open sky above the valley was alone visible. +And now an unusual occurrence presented itself. We were following the +stream upwards towards its source, yet at every mile it increased in +width and became more placid, till at length its surface was unbroken, +and it assumed the form of a magnificent river, wider than the Thames at +Richmond. The hills continued provokingly to overlap one another as +though anxious to shut in and hide the happy valley from sight. But at +length I discerned a far distant white cloud which I guessed betokened +the summit of a mountain, and a few yards further revealed a faint +glistening opaque line which the inexperienced eye would have certainly +taken for a portion of the cloud, but which could not be mistaken by one +who had before seen the snows. About half a mile from Buramula we +obtain the first view of the Vale of Kashmir, but not an extensive one, +as it is obstructed on either side by low hills. However, what is seen +is very pretty. A large level plain traversed by a broad smooth river +which has now lost its tortuous zig-zag course and bounded by the +everlasting snows covering the main backbone of the Himalayas. At the +head of the valley stands the quaint looking town of Baramula surrounded +by hills on all sides but one, embowered in trees and intersected by the +Jhelum, across which there is a good wooden bridge. The houses have +mostly an upper story, and are built of wood with gabled roofs. The +streets are narrow and roughly paved, and I regret to say are not more +pleasant to the nostrils than are those of other Indian towns. The +bridge built of deodar wood, beams of which are driven into the bed of +the river, and then others laid horizontally upon them, each row at +right angles to and projecting beyond the layer beneath, till a +sufficient height has been reached, six of these and two stone piers +form the buttresses of the bridge and a broad pathway of planks connects +them. The march was a fatiguing one on account of its length, and I used +the dandy freely. I shall however discard it altogether for the future. +I went to the Barahduree but found it occupied by a man whose name I was +told was "----," had been there five days. His Coolies had taken +possession of all the rooms, and though I was very angry and inclined to +turn them out, I thought my tent would be preferable to a room just +vacated by the uncleanly native, so I went to an orchard close by, +surrounded by a row of fine poplars, and patiently awaited the arrival +of my baggage which was a long time coming. The gate was guarded by the +Maharajah's sepoys who endeavoured to prevent my entrance. The Thikadar +told me he had no authority for this, but had done it "Zubbur-dustee." +They also say that the occupant of the Barahduree has just come from +England. He is a being shrouded in mystery, and I shall endeavour to +unravel it. My first step will be to report the occurrence to the +officials at S---- when I get there. I took a swim in the Jhelum, whose +course I have now followed for eighty-four crooked miles, and on whose +bosom I shall to-morrow continue my journey. + + +JULY 17th.--By boat up the river, the day so bright, the view so +glorious, the breeze so balmy and delicious, and the motion so gentle +and pleasant, that lying on my bed I devote myself to lazy listlessness, +to a perfect sense of the "dolce far niente" and can hardly prevail on +myself to disturb my tranquillity by writing these few notes. The +contrast to my thirteen heavy marches is so great that I am content to +remain for the present without thought or action, enjoying absolute +rest. Evening--We halt at Sopoor, and now let me endeavour to continue +the diary. Got up at seven this morning and sent for a boat, one of the +larger kind about thirty feet long, and six feet broad in the middle, +the centre portion covered with an awning made of grass matting. The +crew consisting of an entire family, from the elderly parents to quite +young children--9 in all. I was towed up the still widening river by all +of them in turns, one wee girl not three feet high being most energetic, +though I should think of little real service. Boat flat bottomed, and +alike at both ends, they use paddles instead of oars. But the scene! I +am unable now to do justice to it, so I will only give the outlines to +be elaborated hereafter. Splendid river--verdant plain covered with many +varieties of trees, poplar and chenar or tulip tree the most +conspicuous, extending as far as the eye can reach and enclosed by lofty +snow capped mountains, on which rest the clouds of heaven. Bright blue +King-fishers darting like flashes of light or hovering hawk-like before +the plunge after fish and the many hued dragon flies upon the water +weeds. Among the several varieties of the weeds, I noticed a great +quantity of "Anacharis." Got fresh mutton and apple-pie for dinner. +Swarms of very minute flies came to the candle dancing their dance of +death. Many thousands were destroyed, and their bodies darkened the +board which serves me for a table. Sopoor like Baramula, river bridged, +and grass growing on the roofs of the houses. + + +JULY 18th.--In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was +awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended +to ascend, and get a _coup d'oeil_ of the valley. Instead of being on a +river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the +largest in Kashmir. Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half +way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not +mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of +the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great +portion of the view. Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I +shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which +rise very near the water. We are thirty miles from Baramula. The lake is +in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes +it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a +curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft +delicately flavoured kernel--heart-shaped, as big as a filbert. +Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their +crimson feast. Alsoo--a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains. +Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water. + + +JULY 19th, Sunday.--On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left +my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and +only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only +four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work. +For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above +Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with +butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would +"keep master cool." As we rose--the vale spread out magnificently +beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under +the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain. +Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks +covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its +surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well +rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main +valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains, +spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its +many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air +laden with the perfume of many flowers. My Bheisties even exclaimed +"bahut ach chtu." I gazed entranced. The descent was long but a much +better path. Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were +as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a +small yellow plum which was very nice. Arrived at Lalpore the principal +village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very +common) covered with its nuts. This valley abounds with bears, I was +certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to +the ascent being less steep and the path shady. Saw a magnificent +butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but +like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at +the very moment I thought I had secured it. Got a fine one of a commoner +sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured. + + +JULY 20th.--I halt at Salpore, awaiting the arrival of my Sirdar dandy +coolie, an intelligent, useful, Kashmiree man, whom I engaged to +continue with me as a servant at Baramula, and gave him four days leave +to visit his home, arranging that he should rejoin me here. I lie under +the shade of the wide spreading walnut trees, inhaling the fragrant +breeze, and enjoying perfect quietude and repose. All is so grand and +peaceful, that my heart swells with holy thoughts of praise and +gratitude to the Almighty Creator, and while gazing on one of the +fairest portions of his great work I find myself unconsciously repeating +the glorious psalm "O come let us sing unto the Lord." It would indeed +be a hard heart and a dull spirit that did not rejoice in the scene, and +acknowledge the power and magnificence of its maker. I see around me +this garden of Kashmir where every tree bears fruit for the use of man, +and every shrub, bright flowers for his enjoyment. Enclosed and guarded +by "the strength of the hills" (a noble sentence which never never +before so forcibly impressed me) and covered by the purest of blue +skies. All nature seems to say to me "To-day if ye hear his voice, +harden not your hearts," and surely the "still small voice" is speaking, +and can be heard by those who will heed it, and have the heart to feel +and the soul to rejoice in the strength of their salvation. The memory +of the beautiful duett in "Haydn's Creation," when newly made Adam and +Eve unite in praising God and extolling his wonderful works comes +freshly before me. Now, something akin to this must have crossed the +mental vision of the grand old Maestro when he wrote; and its calm +glorious music well accords with my present state of mind. + + +JULY 21st.--A pleasant stroll of ten miles before breakfast to +Koomerial along the level valley, through shady groves of apple, pear, +green-gage, peach, and mulberry trees, and forests of cherry trees +drooping with the weight of their golden blushing fruit. I have not seen +any vines in the Solab. Koomerial is a very small place, and I had a +little difficulty in getting supplies. I ought to have gone three miles +further to a large village; but I'll go there to-morrow, and then return +to Alsoo in two marches. A native came to me with the toothache, begging +assistance, but the tooth required extracting and I could do nothing for +him. Pitched under a walnut tope--the climate delicious, like a warm +English summer, but it is rather hot in my small tent in the middle of +the day; so I have my Charpoy put outside in the shade and lie there +smoking my pipe and thinking. I have spoken of the beauties and +pleasures of the Solab, but I must not omit mention of its annoyances, +flies and mosquitoes, by day the flies abound and cause much irritation +to any exposed part of the body. I do hate tame flies, flies that though +driven away twenty times elude capture, and will pertinaciously return +to the same spot--say your nose--until one is driven nearly mad with +vexation. At dusk the flies return to roost, and then myriads of +mosquitoes emerge from their hiding places, and make night hideous with +their monotonous hum and blood-thirsty propensities. I do not find +chepatties so bad as I expected, indeed I rather like them, but then my +boy makes them excellently well, using soda in their composition. The +process of manufacture is not pleasant--the flour is made into a paste, +and then flattened and consolidated by being thrown backwards and +forwards from one hand to the other, though one may avoid seeing this, +it is difficult to escape hearing the pit-pat of the soft dough as it +passes rapidly between the Khitmutgars extended, and I fear not always +clean fingers, it is then toasted, brought in hot, and you may eat it +dirt and all. But travellers must not be too particular, and so long as +your food is wholesome, eat and be thankful. But here comes my dinner, +with the chepatties I have just seen prepared, and which sight suggested +the foregoing lines. Chicken for breakfast, chicken for dinner, chicken +yesterday, chicken to-morrow, _toujours_ chicken, sometimes curried, +sometimes roasted, torn asunder and made into soup, stew or cutlets, or +with extended wing forming the elegant spatchcock, it is still chicken; +the greatest and rarest change being that it is occasionally rather +tender. I have had chicken soup and roast fowl for dinner, the chicken +in the soup as stringy as hemp, the fowl as tough as my sandal, and with +so large a liver that I doubted whether the bird had not met with a +violent death. I like fowl's liver, it is my one _bonne bouche_ during +the day, but these startled me, and after straining my teeth on the +carcase, I gladly swallow the soft mouthful. Oh! English readers, you +who have never wandered far from your native shores and who esteem +chickens a luxury to put on your supper table at your festive +gatherings, come to India and surfeit on your dainties, you will see it +calmly collecting its daily food unsuspicious of danger, then comes the +rush and loud clacking as it flies pursued by the ferocious native, +ending with cries of despair and the fluttering and hoarse gurgle of its +death throes, in half an hour Murghi will be placed before you hot and +tempting to the eye but hard as nails to the touch; they are cheap in +this part of the world. I pay one anna (or three halfpence) for a +chicken, or two annas for a full grown fowl. + + +JULY 22nd.--A little march of three miles to Koopwaddie. I am glad I +came here for one or two reasons. In the first place the walk afforded +me a nearer and finer view of the head of the valley, surmounted by its +high and rugged snow peaks; and secondly, I find I can return from here +to Sopoor in two marches instead of going back over the old road. From +Sopoor I shall boat to Alsoo. The range which at Lalpore was on the +further side of the valley has gradually approached the other hills +until now they are only a quarter of a mile apart, and are connected by +short low spurs which I crossed this morning. My road to-morrow will be +behind the first mentioned range, where another portion of the valley +lies. The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous +ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles. The two +portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie +is situated at their junction. The Solab proper is only the eastern arm +which is formed into a _cul de sac_ by the mountains, and in which +Lalpore stands. + + +JULY 23rd.--To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley +rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab. Over a low range of +hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of +the Pohroo river. Not finding a good place on that side I forded the +river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth +green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank. Fine view from the +top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with +the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance. This plain is laid +out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages. +The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are +to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds. + + +JULY 24th.--A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed +and uninteresting road to Sopoor. There were but few trees to afford any +shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you +know it is impossible to sit down. From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles) +by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water +lilies. At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my +breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a +procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something +surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see +what it was. It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no +doubt very holy. A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting +loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not +unpleasing melody. They were praying for rain which is rare in this +country, and which is now required for the crops. My boy returned +bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton. Stopped at +Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed. +Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very +cranky. + + +JULY 25th.--Started early for Alsoo. Found my old boat where I had left +it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep +to, as the boatman is a much more useful fellow than the other man. He +acts as a servant, knows all the places I am going to, including +Ummernath, and has many excellent characters from those who have +employed him. There was such a scene when my intentions were made known +to the other crew, at first with tears and folded hands they +supplicated, but when that proved useless they took to cursing and +gesticulating, which they continued as their boat moved away and so long +as they were within hearing, screaming across the water, making faces, +and shaking their fists aloft; the old man was especially violent, it +was very laughable. My present crew consists of the man I have +mentioned, three good looking young woman, one of whom has the hooping +cough, and a variety of children I have not yet made out the different +relations to each other. There was lightning and some heavy rain last +night (the result no doubt of yesterday's ceremony) and the sky is still +gloomy and overcast. On from Alsoo after Chota Hazree or first breakfast +to Lunka, a small island, which is only fifty yards square, is thickly +covered with pine trees, with trailing grape vines clinging around their +boughs, on it stands an old ruin, and fallen pillars and carved stones +litter the ground. From a distance it looked very lovely, floating as +it were on the bosom of the open waters, but as we neared it an +unpleasant odour became perceptible, rapidly increasing to a horrid +stench. This proceeded from a colony of natives who were in temporary +habitation of the island, and were engaged in catching and drying the +fish with which the lake abounds. I landed however, but was soon forced +to beat a rapid retreat. Such a mass of all kinds of filth crowded in so +small a space, I have never before witnessed. Man is ever the plague +spot of the world, where he is not, all is peace, and beauty, with his +presence comes contamination and discord. Saw many a whistling seal in +one part of the lake. The water soon became contracted into a narrow +channel, with a low bank on either side, after travelling a few miles +more we reached the broad Jhelum above its entrance into the lake. +Remained for the night at Hajun. + + +JULY 26th, Sunday.--Moved on in the morning to Manusbul, a small lake +connected with the river by a canal. This lake is about three miles long +and one mile wide, it is very deep in the middle, and said by the +natives to be unfathomable. In one of the Hindoo Legends we are told a +story of a holy man who spent all his life endeavouring to make a rope +long enough to reach to the bottom, and failing, at length threw +himself in and was never seen again. My boatman to give me an idea of +its depth, dropped in white pebbles which could be seen for a long time +sinking in the clear green water, until they gradually disappeared from +sight. I longed to take a plunge into the cool fluid, and Ungoo +evidently read my wish in my looks, for he proposed that I should gussul +or bathe. The presence of three women however proved too much for my +modesty, and I refrained, although I have no doubt that had I not done +so their feelings would not have been in the least outraged. Very +handsome water lilies (lotus) on the surface of the lake, the flowers +being of a delicate pink colour with a yellow centre, and as large as +the crown of a man's hat. At the further extremity, a high hill rises +from the edge of the water. A stream is artificially conducted along its +face at a height of about fifty feet, and the surplus water escapes in +several pretty little cascades, by the side of one of them grow some +noble chenars. The bottom of the lake around the edges is very uneven, +and covered with a dense growth of mynophillum spicatum, on which +planorbus and other molluces graze and tiny fry pick their invisible +atoms of food. The elegant shape of this plant with its branching and +finely cut leaves, and the inequalities of the ground remind me of the +pine-clad hills in miniature. A brilliant king-fisher took the gunwale +of the boat as the "base of his operations," and I amused myself all the +morning, by watching him catch fish; when one approached the surface he +descended with a splash which I imagined would have driven every fish +far away, emerging quickly and very seldom without a capture, which he +turned head downwards and swallowed alive and whole, then looked round +with a laughable air of self-satisfaction. When the fish was a size too +large to be trifled with, he first polished it off by rapping its head +on the boards. It is now sunset, and that bird is still feeding, and +probably the day will end without deciding whether his appetite or his +capacity is the larger. A native brought me a dish of excellent +apricots and mulberries--the mulberries especially good, and my garden +is celebrated for the best peaches in Kashmir. + + +JULY 27th.--Up the Jhelum again, past Sumbul with its deodar bridge +(similar to the others described with this exception, that the footway +appears to be built in imitation of the roof of a house sloping on +either side from a high central ridge, not the best form of bridge I +have seen, but variety is charming) to the entrance of the Scind river, +where a chenar stands in the middle of the stream, protected by a square +block of masonry. Tradition says this tree never grows. Near it is a +small island over grown with trees. Here we left the Jhelum and pursued +the course of the Scind which soon contracted into a narrow and rapidly +flowing river, its water derived from the snows, being very cold. It was +slow work rowing against the strong current, but we presently emerged +into a great lake entirely covered with high rushes except where a +winding channel was cut for the boats, and here progression was slower +still as the rope had to be abandoned, and the pole called into +requisition, so that it was nearly dark when we reached Ganderbul. +Passed a number of men wading in the water up to their necks, and +spearing the ground with poles armed with a single barbed spike. +Although this seems an insane way of attempting to catch fish, their +boat was well laden with a small species of trout, and I saw several +drawn from the water impaled and wriggling upon the sharp point. +Sreenuggur seen in the distance at the extremity of a mountainous spur, +with the Fort and Soloman's Throne, standing upon two elevated rocks. +Within a few miles of Ganderbul the lake became clear, and presented a +fine expanse of water, but with so many shallows, that our course was +very tortuous. Having travelled twenty miles, we are now only five miles +from Manusbul. Ganderbul stands at the opening of the Scind valley, but +it was too late to take any observations when I arrived; so I must wait +until my return. + + +JULY 28th.--A march of nine miles up the valley to Kungan, taking with +me as before only four coolie loads of baggage; my boatman accompanies +me. Met Scott, of the 88th, three or four miles from Ganderbul, the +first European I have seen since the 12th. This is a narrow and +beautiful valley, down which the Scind river rushes foaming and roaring. +Its waters are icy cold and its colour also seems to partake of its +snowy origin, for it is white, not only with foam, but the water itself +in small quantities is as though it had come out of a milky jug. Grand +hills stand on either side, and up the valley I occasionally got +glimpses of high and rugged snow peaks. Several natives came to me with +different ailments, I gave them rough directions whereby to benefit, but +what they wanted was a gift of medicine (of which I have none.) They +fancy every Englishman is an adept in the art of healing, and that +English physic especially Tyrnhill's Pills, possesses magical powers. + + +JULY 29th.--To Toomoo, six miles, a shorter march than I intended, for +they told me at Kungan that Toomoo was twelve miles distant. However, +when I arrived, the temptation to stop was too strong to be resisted. In +marching one gets very weary about the sixth or seventh mile, but this +passes off, and you can then go on comfortably for almost any distance, +provided you resist the first feelings of fatigue, and do not give way +to it, as I have done to-day. The mountains are now huge towering +masses, rising thousands of feet above the valley; they have lost all +smoothness of outline, and their upper portions are bare and rough, +cragged, and pine clad. Instead of having merely whitened peaks, snow +fields extend down the sides. The scene is one of wild majestic +grandeur. What tremendous agonies in past ages must have been employed +to produce such vast upheavals. One cannot help contemplating with awe +the possibility of the world again becoming violently rent and shaken +to its foundations by the forces which though now comparatively inert, +still exist beneath us and occasionally give sad proof of their +undiminished power. In the present day the slow but continued action of +this subterranean power is in some parts perceptible (as in South +America) and we have no guarantee that it may not suddenly acquire +increased energy, and overwhelm our fairest lands with a run too +terrible to be imagined. Stinging nettles abound here, of the tall sort +that grow so rankly on old earth heaps and in dry ditches. I placed my +hand among them, delighted to be stung again by English friends; the +sensation is so far preferable to mosquito bites. Besides it took me +back to "childhood's happy hours," when with bramble torn breeches and +urticarious shin, I forced the hedges, apple stealing--I have stolen +apples to-day for a tart which is now baking--robbed the trees of them +for they are no man's property. Just above here on the other side of the +valley is a very perfect crater (of course extinct) for there are now no +volcanoes in the Himalayas. Its lips are rugged and serrated like the +teeth of a saw, and form a very perfect circle I cannot tell the depth +of the basin, but on the further side I can see that the edge rises +perpendicularly to a considerable height, and at the bottom of it I just +got a glimpse of a steeply sloping floor. On its exterior are deep +grooves containing strong blocks, which at this distance appear to show +by contrast of colour their igneous origin, but I cannot speak +positively on this point. My Bheistie to whom I gave three days leave to +visit his family, came in saying he had walked one hundred miles. He +does not look any the worse for it. + + +JULY 30th.--Another short march of five miles to Soorapra, a small +village around which stand several enormous hills, half obscured by +clouds, for it is a thoroughly wet day, drizzling rain having fallen +ever since my arrival. It is very cool and pleasant, but I have got up +too far and am now in the rainy region, so to-morrow I shall retrace my +steps, three or four marches would take me over the Himalayas into +Ladâk. This would be an interesting trip, but there still remains much +for me to see in Kashmir, and I have not time to do both. Passed +another, but smaller and less perfect crater. Some natives brought a +young black bear, which they had just caught to show me. It was no +larger than a good-sized dog, but had very long sharp claws; its +expression was anything but ferocious. A dense pine and walnut forest +extends down one of the hills to the verge of the village. I was +strolling in that direction, not a hundred yards from the huts--before +the arrival of my baggage--when two men ran after me and begged me to +come back on account of the number of tigers there. I imagined they +meant leopards, but on making enquiries I find cows are carried away, +which could not be done by leopards. This would be a good ground for the +sportsman, but no Europeans come here as it is off the regular track up +the valley. I crossed the river this morning by a ricketty bridge built +of a couple of firs, on which logs were loosely laid, leaving the main +road which runs along the other or right bank. Just behind my tent a +stream of deliciously cold and transparent water issues from the hill +side; a rough sort of shed is erected over it, and the water is +conducted a short distance in a wooden trough, from the end of which it +falls to the ground. It is the custom in Kashmir to build over the +springs and esteem them holy. No mosquitoes up here, delightful prospect +of a good night's rest. + + +JULY 31st.--Back to Kungan in one march, but did not encamp on the same +ground as before, as I found a better place by the side of the river. I +have been thinking all the morning about my future career, whether I +shall obtain the appointment in the Guards that I have applied for, (my +application has by this time reached England) if not, what will they do +with me when I get home, or shall I remain in the army? These questions +have been running in my head and occasionally a more delicate one +obtruded. Shall I marry, and if so, when and whom, and here, where all +my thoughts are revealed, I must needs confess that now at twenty-nine +years of age, I begin to weary of single blessedness, and long for a +fair, loving, and loveable companion. Now my gentle lady reader, here is +a chance for you, if you are content with honest love without adoration, +faithfulness without romance; for my romantic days have passed. I have +learnt the sober realities of life, and among them the truth of God's +declaration that it is not good for man to be alone. The _Saturday +Review_ in recent articles, "The Girl of the Period, &c.," holds out a +poor prospect for the would be benedict, and I fear there is much truth +in the assertion that the majority of our young women are husband +hunting, that they make matrimony their one great object, and will +condescend to any means whereby to attain the personal independance +given them by that position, that these marriages without love, only +prompted by selfish considerations, are followed by a total neglect of +all wifely duties--nay more, that even maternal care and tenderness have +nearly ceased to exist. It is a sad picture, and sternly drawn. The +well-known power of the paper is put forth in its highest degree, and +withering sarcasm, and bitter contempt accompany its stern reproofs. +Yet there is a final wail of despair at the unlikelihood of any change +for good being effected. This evil like most others is of our own +making. We men no longer marry while young, but when middle-aged or with +grey hairs beginning to show, a man desires a wife, he will most likely +choose one five and twenty years his junior. The girl often marry thus +because she cannot get a husband of her own age, and a very few years +lost will doom her to perpetual spinsterhood. It is necessarily a +marriage without love, a lucky one if there be respect. Girls have +learnt that it is useless to bestow their affections where nature would +have them, and and it is scarcely a matter for surprise that they +should in consequence endeavour to repress them altogether. Moral for my +own use. Marry while I am young, or not at all. + + +AUGUST 1st.--To Wangut nine miles rough and hilly walking. I lost the +path once, and had a long scramble before I regained it. Though not a +pleasant march the scenery is very fine and picturesque. Wangut lies up +a short and contracted valley, an offshoot of the Scind which is a much +larger one, and the mountains around it are very grand especially at the +head of the valley, I put up large coveys of grey partridge on the road. +I have come here for the purpose of visiting some mines two miles +further on, and I intend to halt to-morrow and walk to see them. There +is a great row going on while I write this, the natives appear unwilling +to furnish supplies (milk, eggs, &c.,) and my boatman who has +accompanied me is applying his stick freely by way of persuasion. There +is of course a Babel of tongues and I sit within a few yards, quietly +ignoring the proceeding, though if necessary, I shall get up and add +some lusty whacks as my share of the argument. A mountain torrent--a +tributary of the Scind runs down the valley with the usual noise and +hurly burly. A travelling native carpenter is here, and all the village +are bringing their ploughs to be mended, he is very clever with his +hoe-shaped hatchet fashioning the hard walnut wood so correctly with it, +that the chisel is hardly necessary for the few finishing touches. I +have seen him make some wooden ladles very rapidly, and he has provided +me with a new set of tent pegs and mallet and a wooden roller, by means +of which I hope to avoid the digital process in the manufacture of my +chepatties. + + +AUGUST 2nd, Sunday.--Sitting having my feet washed by a servant +(delightful sensation) after my return from the ruin of Rajdainbul and +Nagbul. I meditate on the mutability of all things human. I have taken a +walk before breakfast this Sabbath morning to witness the overthrow of +former magnificence and the destruction of man's crafty handiwork. These +two temples erected many long years ago in honour of a Hindoo Deity +named Naranay, now stand desolate piles in the dense jungle. Fallen +stones cover the ground and great trees grow from the interstices of +those that still hold together and retain a semblance of their original +shape. Confusion reigns supreme and the place that was once the scene of +mistaken worship, is now only the haunt of the wild beast and deadly +reptile. The thoughts which such a sight suggest, have been the theme of +many a moralist, but the great lesson it teaches cannot lose any of its +importance by repetition. Yet a consideration of the littleness of man +and the utter vanity of his proudest works is, I fear, distasteful to +most of us; we cannot bear to be forced to admit our own insignificance. +We go to church and cry "what is man that Thou art mindful of him," but +the words are but empty sounds. Our preachers may tell us that life is +but a shadow, but they speak to unwilling and heedless ears, and we go +on ignoring the fact, crying peace, and stifling our conscience by a +form of religion without godliness. We are arrogant, high-minded, puffed +up in our own conceit, and though there are many that would wish to be +considered holy, how few there are that are humble men of heart, and +time continues to repeat the old, old story, filling our grave-yards, +destroying our works; creation alone remaining stable, waiting for the +end. These ruins are small in size, and their architecture rude, though +the individual blocks are certainly large and well though not +elaborately carved. But they produce a strange impression of awe by the +dreary solitude and wildness of their position which is perhaps peculiar +to themselves, although they lack both the fairy elegance of Netley +Abbey, and the massive grandeur of a Pevensey Castle. The men who +accompanied me advanced very cautiously through the thick underwood, +beating with their sticks in order to drive away the Iguana Lizards, +which they call the "bis cobra" and hold in deadly fear, believing its +bite to be most surely fatal. This belief is universal among the natives +of India, but there is no proof of its truth, and I need hardly say that +the dental arrangement of Bactrachian reptiles is incompatible with the +possession of poisonous qualities. But though science will not admit it, +it is strange that the idea is so widely spread, especially as the +natives do not fear any other species of lizard, while they believe that +every snake is armed with the fatal fang. + + +AUGUST 3rd.--Heavy rain prevented my departure from Wangut, at the usual +early hour, but about 9 o'clock it cleared up, and I marched on Arric +eight miles distant down a path on the right bank of the river, (I +ascended the valley on the other side.) The rain has made it very +slippery, and it was a fatiguing walk the road not being good, and +occasionally dangerous; one part fairly beat me, I was expected to pass +round a smooth rock by means of several ledges one inch wide and four or +five long, cut on its surface. The precipice below was deep, and when I +had taken one step, and found myself hanging over it; I determined to go +back and try another way. The other way is bad enough, but all I object +to is having my safety depending upon a single foothold. I like to have +at least one chance of recovering myself if I slip. My walnut tree +to-day is covered with mistletoe and my mind is directed to Christmas +time, and all its (to us) sad associations. Three Christmases have I +spent away from England, and a fourth is now approaching, one of them on +the ocean, and two in the tented field, the next will I fancy also find +me under canvass, but I trust on my way homewards. Westward Ho! is my +cry; let the gorgeous East with its money bags, its luxuries, and its +many hours of idleness, remain for those who are content to exchange +home-ties and the enjoyment of life for dreary exile and too often +untimely death, who will sell their minds and bodies for the price of +rupees. + + +AUGUST 4th.--Marched back to Ganderbul, nine miles. Ganderbul is a very +small place, and the only object of interest I noticed, was a very old +bridge built of rough stones, standing now upon dry land, for the Scind +has left its former channel and runs one hundred yards to to the south +of it, three of the arches remain entire and connected, and at least +twelve others are either decayed or destroyed. This bridge is evidently +of very ancient date. On emerging from the Scind valley, I got a better +view of the vale than I have before had. It was a clear but cloudy +morning--one of those grey days when rays abound, and photographic +efforts are most successful--and every distant object was seen with +great distinctness. The snowy Pin Punjaul range, in its southern +boundary looked magnificent, rising abruptly from the level and +beautiful plain. On board the boat again, I continued the journey +towards Srenuggur. We had not been long afloat before a sudden squall +came down from the hills and blew the roof of the boat off; it took a +long time to repair the mischief, but fortunately all the matting was +blown on to the bank, it was eventually replaced and we proceeded +onwards in a tolerably direct line to the capital, ten miles distant. +But near sunset the wind increased again, and compelled us to take +refuge in a sheltered nook within a mile or two of Srenuggur, the fort +standing above us on the summit of a hill--imposing from its apparently +impregnable position--and there we remained all night. + + +AUGUST 5th.--Starting early, I soon arrived at the outskirts of the +town, and the boat entered a canal with houses on both sides. There was +some delay at a lock and great excitement in pushing over the fall +caused by the rash of the water. Passed through the city which is a +large one, and encamped under chenars on the banks of the canal on the +other side. The Baboo-Mohu Chundee, an officer appointed by the +Maharajah to attend to the many and varying wants of European +visitors--called upon me and afterwards sent "russud" or a present from +the Maharajah consisting of tea, sugar, flour, butter, rice, salt, +spice, vegetables, a chicken, and a live sheep. Some cloth merchants +also came and I was led into extravagance in purchasing some of their +goods. In the afternoon I got a small boat, a miniature of the larger +one, propelled by six men with paddles. They took me along very quickly, +and I went down the canal which opens into the Jhelum--the main +thoroughfare of Suenaggur opposite to the palace and the adjoining +temple, whose dome is covered with plates of pure gold. It is a very +strange sight, the broad river covered with boats, and lined by houses +built in the curious Kashmirian style. Seven fine bridges cross it, and +on two of them stand rows of shops like our Old London Bridge. I first +went to the Post-office and got a satisfactory communication from our +Paymaster, and also a letter from Bill, giving me the sad tidings of +poor Tyrwhitt's death, which took place at Murree a fortnight after my +departure. It is a selfish consideration, but I cannot help feeling +grateful that he was prevented by an attack of ague from accompanying +me, as he intended. I then went to Sumnad Sha's, the great shawl +merchant, and turned some of the Paymaster's paper into silver currency. +He showed me his stock, and I wished that I possessed the means of +purchasing his goods. But even here a good shawl costs thirty or forty +pounds, very magnificent they are, but I need not describe that which +every English lady knows and longs for, if she has not it. Hewson, the +Paymaster at Chinsurah, is encamped within one hundred yards of me. +Passing in his boat he recognised me, and we went and had a swim and +talked over old times at the Depôt. + + +AUGUST 6th.--Bought some tackle and went fishing, but the hooks were +rotten and the fish broke several. I only succeeded in landing one trout +of nearly two pounds weight. The spoon bait is a favourite one here. +Bought a variety of stones and pebbles. Ladûk, Yarkund, Opals, Garnets, +&c., for making brooches, bracelets, and studs. I was a long while +making the selection and a long while bargaining, but I seem to have got +them cheap; at all events for less money than Hewson has paid for his. +This, and fishing, occupied the whole day--which was consequently an +uneventful one. In the evening I borrowed writing materials from Hewson, +and wrote a letter to Bell. + + +AUGUST 7th.--Went out spearing fish, but found it difficult in +consequence of the allowance necessary for the refraction of the water +and the movement of the fish. There is a great temptation to strike in +an apparently direct line with the fish, which I need hardly say, even +if the fish be stationary does not go near it. I only succeeded in +piercing two. But I afterwards went out with a spoon and very soon +landed a couple of trout of two and four pounds weight. I have found out +who was at Baramula ---- travelling quietly like a private gentleman, +still, notwithstanding the paucity of his retinue, the unmistakeable +stamp of nobility about him made it plain that he was more than he +appeared to be, obtaining for him the attention which he had wished to +ignore. As a contrast to him we have here X----, Y----, and Z----, +noticeable like many other Englishmen, when travelling in foreign +countries for the prodigality of their expenditure, one of whom got a +thrashing the other day from ----. Rather a disreputable affair for him, +if all I hear be true. I dare say many a poor native wishes that a small +portion of the money these three men waste was given to them instead. + + +AUGUST 8th.--I have done nothing to-day except go to Sumnad Shas for +some more money, as I intend to leave Sreenugger to-morrow for the +eastern part of Kashmir. There are two reasons for my idleness; in the +first place Hewson gave me some books he had done with, and I got +interested in James' "Heidelberg" and was reading it all this morning; +and secondly, Hewson left this afternoon and sat a long time with me +before his departure. To lengthen my notes for the day I ought to write +a sermon, or secular discourse, (as I have done before) but I don't feel +inclined to do so. This diary only gets my thoughts when they arise +spontaneously and require no further labour than the mere putting of +them into words. To-day my mind is a blank, and I am not going to search +in hidden recesses for thoughts that may possibly be secreted there. +Perhaps after dinner something may occur to me worth writing about. + + +AUGUST 9th, Sunday.--On again by the big boat up the Jhelum stopping at +Pampur for two hours fishing under the bridge (the reputed haunt of +large fish) but without success, so continued the journey gliding slowly +along the beautiful river until dark, when the boat was run ashore and +secured. So it has been an uneventful day with no new scenery to +describe and no musings to record. + + +AUGUST 10th.--Another day passed on the river. From early dawn till dusk +we continued towing against the stream, and then halted for the night at +Kitheryteen (I spell the word from my boatman's pronunciation of it) a +small village on the right bank. + + +AUGUST 11th.--Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara, +where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar +to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty +from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every +pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway, +between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains. +Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be +large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half +its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains +which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached +Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the +first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of +only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small +streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the +hills. + + +AUGUST 12th.--Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the +camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned +from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them +being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600 +feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity. +In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and +these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave, +but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too +cold up there. At Burven is a very holy spring. Two tanks are formed +where the water escapes from the ground, and these tanks swarm with tame +fish, some of them of large size. It was a great sight feeding them. +They all rushed to the place struggling and fighting for the food. The +bright green water was black with them, and a space yards wide and long, +and several feet thick, was occupied by a block of fish packed as +closely as if they were pickled herrings. These fish are also very +sacred, and to catch them is prohibited. Soon after leaving Kunbul I +passed through Islamabad, a large town of which I may have more to say +hereafter. There are two other men encamped here with me, but they don't +seem very sociable, and I don't care much for the society of strangers; +we have exchanged "good mornings" and that is all, and now sit staring +at each other at a distance of twenty yards. How different it would have +been if we were Frenchmen instead of cold-blooded Englishmen. After dark +the fakirs had a "tomasha." Singing, bell ringing, tambourine-beating, +and the blowing of discordant horns all at the same time, constituted a +delightful music--to them at least--and was continued for hours, +interrupted by shouting and yelling, and with this din going on I now +hope to sleep. + + +AUGUST 13th.--Marched back to Islamabad, seven miles, by another road, +as I first visited the ruins of Martund, a temple built (so the legend +goes) ages ago by "gin men" or demons of gigantic stature. These are +really grand ruins, whether position, site, or architecture be +considered. They stand on an open plain, on the summit of a ridge, from +which is a fine view of the surrounding mountains, which are much higher +than in the western part of Kashmir. In the centre is a large block, +containing several rooms, the huge stones of which it is built being +elaborately carved. There are many niches containing figures, but the +defacing hand of time has sadly marred them. On two sides of this +building and only a few feet distant from it rise a couple of wings, and +the whole is enclosed by a stone screen, perforated by trefoil arches, +and having on its inner side a row of fluted columns. In the middle of +the south side of the screens is the main entrance, the pillars of which +are very tall. Vigne, classes these ruins among the finest in the world, +and perhaps he is right. At Islamabad there are several bungalows +provided for visitors, and I went into one of them, having first +cleared it of the "fakirs"--who are here too. These bungalows stand by +tanks in which are tame fish, as at Burven. A spring issues from the +hill side, just above them. Two men of the 7th Hussars, Walker and +Verschoyle, occupied another, and I breakfasted with them. Adjoining the +tanks is a small pleasure garden, with some buildings which are +inhabited by the Maharajah when he visits Islamabad. The place reminds +me more of a tea garden in the New Road, than the resort of Royalty. The +water from the tanks escapes under the front bungalow forming a pretty +cascade. Dined and passed the evening with the other fellows. + + +AUGUST 14th.--To Atchebul, six miles. This is a charming spot. It is a +pavilion and garden built--if my memory serves me--by the Emperor Shah +Jehan, for his wife; at its upper end rises a hill covered with small +deodars and other trees, and from the foot of this hill four springs +gush forth from crevices in the rock. The volume of water is very large, +and it is conveyed into three tanks at different levels. These tanks are +connected by broad canals lined with stone, and at the extremity of each +canal is a fine waterfall. There are also two lateral canals which run +through the whole length of the gardens, from the boundary of which the +water escapes in three cascades, the centre one from the tanks being +the largest. In the middle tank are twenty-five fountains, which were +turned on for my benefit; only seventeen of them play, and the best jets +are not more than six feet high. In the centre of this tank stands a +pavilion which I now inhabit. Its walls are of wooden trellis work, and +the ceiling is divided into panels on which are painted in many colours +the everlasting shawl pattern; it looks as though the floor-cloth had +been placed on the ceiling by mistake. Along the foot of the hill is a +ruined terrace built of bricks, with arches and alcoves crumbling to +pieces. There is also an arch over the canal, between the second and +third tanks. The whole garden was originally laid out in several +terraces faced with masonry, and having wide flights of stone steps from +one to the other; but all is now much decayed, and the garden itself is +quite uncultivated, except a small portion, and is but a wilderness of +fruit trees and fine chenars. On the left of it is the old Human or +bath, a series of domed and arched rooms containing baths and marble +seats. The interior is in a fair state of preservation, and the various +pipes which conveyed the water to it still exist. The whole ground is +enclosed by a wall, and if it was properly looked after, might be +converted into a very pleasant retreat. In the afternoon Walker and +Verschoyle, rode over from Islamabad and sat some time with me, after a +few hours five other pipes began to squirt--rendered patulous I suppose +by the pressure of the water--so that three only now remain occluded. I +had a great loss last night; the dogs broke open the basket containing +my provisions, and carried away half a large sized cake, and a hump of +beef that had been cooked but was uncut. + + +AUGUST 15th.--Marched to Nowboog, fifteen miles, this long march was +quite unexpected as Ince in his book puts it down eight miles. It was up +hill nearly all the way--this combined with the sun's heat--for I did +not start so early as I would have done if I had known the distance--and +the vexation of having to go on, long after I considered the march +ought to have been finished, made it very fatiguing. Nowboog is situated +in a small and pretty valley separated by hills from the rest of +Kashmir. I intend to halt here to-morrow, so will reserve further +description until I feel fresh again. It was one or two o'clock before I +arrived, and I have worn a hole in my left heel which will, I fear, +render the next marches painful. Umjoo--the boatman--is now shampooing +my legs and feet. This process consists of violent squeezes and pinches +which make me inclined to cry out, but I am bearing it bravely without +flinching and endeavouring to look happy, and to persuade myself that it +is pleasant--now my toes are being pulled with a strength fit to tear +them off. Oh! ----. There's a cry on paper. He does not hear that, and +it is some sort of relief. + + +AUGUST 16th, Sunday.--The valley of Nowboog is small but very +picturesque. The surrounding hills are comparatively low, and are +covered with pasture on the open places, while the deodar and many other +trees occupy the ravines and gullies. The large amount of grass and the +grouping of the trees give it a park-like appearance, and the gentle +slopes of the verdant mountains remove all wildness from the scene. It +is a pleasant spot to halt at. A little nook which while it charms the +eye, only suggests peaceful laziness. My coolies sit at a short +distance, singing through their noses Kashmirian songs. There is much +more melody in their music than in that of their brethren of Hindoostan. +Indeed some of the tunes admit of being written, and I have copied a few +of the more rythmical, as they sang them. The principal objection to +them is that they are rather too short to bear repetition for half an +hour as is the custom, there is another music going on--a music that +cannot be written and will be difficult to describe--I mean the song of +the "Cicada Stridulantia" in walnut trees above me. This insect--the +balm cricket--is in appearance a burlesque, just such a house fly as you +might imagine would be introduced in a pantomime; and its cry is as +loud and incessant as it is peculiar. To describe it, fancy to begin +with a number of strange chirps, and that every few seconds, one of +those cogged wheels and spring toys that you buy at fairs to delude +people into the belief that their coats are being torn--is passed +rapidly down the back, with occasionally momentary interruption in the +middle of its course, while between each scratch you hear a mew of a +distant cat--another cat purring loudly all the time, and any number of +grasshoppers chirping to conclude with a running down of the most +impetuous and noisy alarum, and then silence--a silence almost painful +by contrast--until it begins again. Such is the song of the Cicada in +the Himalayan forests. I wonder every Sunday if they miss me at +Peshawur; for I was organist to the church before I left, and I doubt if +there is anybody to take my place. I wish I had the instrument here now +to peal forth to the hills and the wondering Kashmirians Handel's +sublime "Hallelujah Chorus" or "The Marvellous Works" of Haydn. What can +be more inspiring than the grand old church music we possess, bequeathed +to us by composers of immortal memory. Though much opposed to the +present Ritualistic tendencies I do delight in a musical service. It +seems to elevate the mind and give a greater depth to our devotion. Go +into any of our cathedrals and hear the solemn tones of the Liturgy +echoing through the vaulted roof, and your heart must needs join in the +supplication, "And when the glorious burst of music calls to praise and +rejoicing, will not your own soul fly heavenward with the sound and find +unaccustomed fervency in its thanksgivings." There is perhaps one thing +necessary, and that is, that you should know the music you hear, +otherwise the first admiration of its beauty may eclipse all other +considerations. But if you have studied it, if it is as familiar to you +as it ought to be, and is intimately connected in your mind with the +words to which it is set, you will understand its spirit, and see that +however beautiful it may be it is only the means whereby higher thoughts +and nobler feelings are sought to be expressed. I bought here a very +fine pair of Antlers of the "Bara sing"--a large deer found on these +hills. + + +AUGUST 17th.--To Kookur Nag, twelve miles. I am now convinced I came the +wrong road from Atchibul to Nowboog, as I had to march back over a great +portion of it this morning; however, with the exception of a mile or +two, it was all down hill, and as I knew when I started that I had +twelve miles to go, I was not tired. Stopped at the village on the way +where there are iron works, and saw them smelting the ore which is +obtained from the neighbouring mountains, this ore is a yellow powder, +and appears to be almost pure oxide. Their method of working is very +rude; a small furnace, such as a blacksmith uses at home, supplied with +a pair of leather bellows constitutes the whole of the foundry, and is +of course, only capable of smelting a very small quantity of ore at a +time. Kookur Nag is the name of some springs about two miles from the +village I have encamped at, and I walked over this afternoon to see +them. It was scarcely worth the trouble. There are a great number of +them close together and they issue from the ground, as usual, at the +foot of a prettily wooded hill. The water is very pure and cold, and of +sufficient quantity to form immediately a large and rapid stream. This +place lies near the mouth of a wide gorge or valley which leads right up +to the snows, and down which there must have been at one time, either a +mighty rush of water or a vast glacier, as the ground is thickly strewn +with huge boulders. The stratification of one mountain against which it +is evident the flood impinged--is very clearly and beautifully shown. + + +AUGUST 18th.--To Vernag, ten miles, crossing a range of hills, the +descent being the steepest I have experienced. From the top of the range +there was a fine view of the two valleys of Kookur Nag and Vernag. They +are very similar and down the middle of each is a layer of loose rounded +stones. The springs of Vernag occupy the same position in the valley as +those of Kookur Nag do in the other, but around them is a good sized +village, and their point of exit has been converted into a large and +very deep octagonal tank, which is perfectly crowded with sacred fish. +Surrounding the tank is a series of arches, and on the side from which +the stream escapes is a bungalow for the use of visitors. Six days ago a +Hindoo was drowned here, and his body has not been recovered--so deep is +the water, it is probable that ere this the fish have removed all but +his bones, one hundred yards below the tank is another spring, which is +the finest I believe in Kashmir. It comes straight up on level ground, +and forms a mound of water eighteen inches high, and more than a foot in +diameter. The morning cloudy and very gloomy on account of the eclipse +of the sun of which I saw nothing. This is my birthday and my thoughts +have been running over my past life and speculating upon the future +before me. "But fear not dear reader!" I will not bore you with all my +musings over those twenty-nine unfruitful, if not absolutely mis-spent +evil years, or show you how my "talent" lies carefully folded up and +hidden away, in order that I may have it to return to its "owner". "Oh! +fool, fool that I am." Knowing better things and with a half a lifetime +gone, "I find myself still plodding along the old road paved with good +intentions." The springs of grace indeed surround me, but I am in the +shallows and the water is muddy. The very "Tree of Life" is by my side, +but it is a dwarfed and stunted shrub, whose shoots wither before they +put forth leaves. When will this change? Will my resolutions ever become +deeds? "Will grace abound: or will faith ever give such impetus to my +"Tree of Life," that it may grow up into heaven?" I put to myself the +question that was asked Ezekiel. "Can these dry bones live," and have no +other answer than his to make. These are some of my birthday thoughts. +Pray, forgive, excuse me if I have wearied you. + + +AUGUST 19th.--Back to Atchibul, twelve miles, the road for the most part +level, but there was one mile of very hard work, over the ridge I +crossed yesterday. I approached Atchibul from the hill I mentioned as +standing at the head of the garden, and from the top of it a very pretty +view of the place is obtained. I found the pavilion unoccupied, and +again took possession of it, set the fountains playing, and imagined +myself the Great Mogul. Just out of Vernag, I caught a small black and +yellow bird, which my boatman calls a "bulbul" (though I think he is +wrong in the name) and says it sings very well. I have had a cage made +for it, and it is now feeding at my side, and is apparently very happy. +I'll try and take it to England. I believe it is only one of the shrike +family, but it is too young to identify at present. However, it is my +fancy to keep it, so why should I not. The old gardener here is very +attentive, constantly bringing me fruit. Shall I do him injustice, by +saying that he probably has expectation of a reward? I think not indeed, +is it not the same expectation or its allied motive, the desire to +escape punishment, which prompts the actions of all of us? We do good, I +fear, more for the sake of the promised recompense, than for any love +of the thing itself. Light rain has fallen all day. + + +AUGUST 20th.--I halt at Atchibul. I have now completed my wanderings in +Kashmir, and have seen all I intended except one portion, which I shall +visit on my road home. My next move will be to ----, but as I do not +care to spend more than seven or eight days there, I am in no hurry to +get back. My bird died in the night, and by its death has put an end to +a rather violent controversy between my Bheistie and boatman. The +boatman stoutly maintained his opinion of its value and the Bheistie +with a more correct appreciation, and while explaining to me that it +was a jungle bird and would never sing, appeared to look upon my conduct +with a mixture of compassion and disgust, and then they quarrelled over +it. Was my fancy a foolish one? Some men will spend years in the pursuit +and classification of butterflies, while others go into ecstasy over a +farthing of the reign of Queen Anne. My common jungle bird was a pretty +one, and if I had got it home and put it in a gilt cage, it would surely +have possessed some value for its antecedents, even if it had proved as +mute as a fish, or as discordant as a Hindoo festival. + + +AUGUST 21st.--Marched back to Kunbul, seven miles, and took up my +quarters again on board the boat, fifteen or twenty other boats are +here, a good many visitors having recently arrived in this part of +Kashmir. I remained at Kunbul all day waiting for the completion of a +pair of chuplus which I ordered of a shoemaker ten days ago. I have +occupied the time by reading Marryat's "Newton Forster" (one of Hewson's +gifts) and I find that when I read I can't write, so that must be my +excuse for the shortness of my notes. My head is full of ships, sea +fights, and love making to the exclusion of everything else. I heard +you--you said it was a good job, as it prevented me writing more +nonsense. + + +AUGUST 22nd.--Slowly drifting all day down the stream towards +Sreenuggur. Past Bijbehara with its fine bridge, stopping there a short +time to procure milk and eggs for breakfast. Past Awuntipoor--the former +capital--but now only a very small village, where stands on the rivers +bank the ruins of two ancient Hindoo temples, square blocks, built +indeed of enormous stones, but without sufficient architectural +embellishment to require a closer inspection than I obtained from the +boat. Another of those charming lazy days on the water, nothing to think +about, but the time for meals, nothing to do, but to eat them when +prepared. The eastern part of Kashmir is covered with high isolated +mounds called Kuraywahs, composed of Alluvium, presenting perfectly +flat summits and precipitous sides. The top of these was doubtless the +original bed of the lake at the time when the whole valley was +submerged, and the present channels between them (though now dry land) +were cut by the rush of the water, when the Jhelum burst through the +opening at Baramula and drained the valley. This rush then is shown to +have been impetuous (and the high banks of the river also bear evidence +to it) but it seems to me that the mere breaking through of the stream +sixty or seventy miles away is not enough to account for it. No doubt +that occurrence was attended, I may say produced by violent +subterranean phenomena; and I imagine that this portion of the +vale--which is much higher than the western half--then underwent a +sudden upheaval, the result of which if only a few feet would be to +throw its waters with terrific force into the lower portion and afford +an easy explanation of the formation of both the Kuraqwahs and the +Jhelum. I noticed in my course up the Jhelum, that it appeared to have +originally consisted of a chain of small lakes, this would be the the +natural effect of such a cause as I have supposed. The bulk of water, at +first, would only have been sufficient to produce a few of them, perhaps +only the large one between Gingle and Baramula. But as its quantity and +measure continually increased by the flow from the higher level so +would lake after lake have been formed among the crowded hills until the +plains were reached. Then the drainage of these small lakes would follow +as a matter of course, and the channel of the river be reduced to a size +proportionate to its constant supply. Dear reader, you are very +difficult to please. My descriptions you call slow, my imaginings +frivolous, science dry. Jokes are feeble and personalities tedious +morality is stale, religion is cant. What, how can I write? You have had +a taste of all and if you are not content the fault is--well, let me be +on the safe side--either yours or mine. + + +AUGUST 23rd, Sunday.--We continued to progress last night by moonlight +long after the sun had set, and started again very early this morning, +so that the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Soloman's Throne) and Fort are now +visible, and I expect to reach Sreenuggur before noon. It is faster work +floating down the current than towing against it. At Sreenuggur I found +several letters waiting for me, and amongst them a large "Official," +which I tore open with eager haste; thinking it might be a reply to my +application to be sent home. It was ----. Well, you will never guess--an +urgent enquiry as to what language I could speak and write fluently +beside English. I have answered this question some half dozen times +since I have been in the service, but they never get tired of asking it. +The date of my arrival in India is another favourite and constantly +recurring enquiry, and this might lead me to give you a dissertation +upon the theory and practice of Red-tapeism, with a special +consideration of the amount of stationery thereby wasted, and its +probable cost to the Government. It would perhaps, be very interesting +to you, but to any one who is at all connected with it, the subject is +only one of weariness and disgust--weariness at the unproductive labour +entailed--disgust at the utter folly of the proceedings. So I pass it +by, leaving some one who is willing to sacrifice his feelings, or more +probably some one who knows nothing whatever about it to furnish the +much needed exposé; it is customary to cry it down but it is an +acknowledged evil, the custom has never been fully and fairly explained +to outsiders or it must have given way before the burst of public +indignation which such an explanation would have created. I have again +encamped in the Chinar Bugh, but not quite in the old position as a +better place was unoccupied. Indeed I had my pick of the whole, for +there is now nobody here but myself. I received news (in my letters) +that a field force had left Pindee to operate against some of the hill +tribes between Peshawur and Abbottabad--ruffians who are always giving +trouble, and who occasioned the inglorious Umbeylla campaign a few +years ago. I informed my "boy" that there was going to be some hard +fighting, and his reply was "With our troops, Sir?" Our troops! good +heavens! a black man speaking to me of "our troops." It is customary I +know to call these Asiatics our fellow subjects, but I never before had +the fact so forcibly brought before me. + + +AUGUST 24th.--I got up early this morning and have spent half the day on +the "Dul" or "City Lake"--a large sheet of water which lies at the foot +of the hill behind Sreenuggur. Besides the excessive beauty of the lake +itself there are many objects of interest to be seen on its banks. I +visited in succession the Mussul Bagh, Rupa Lank or Silver Isle, +Shaliman Bagh, Suetoo Causeway, Nishat Bagh, Souee Lank or Golden Isle, +and floating gardens. A word or two of description for each. The Mussul +Bagh is a large grove of fine chenars planted in lines so as to form +avenues at right angles to each other. There must be several hundred of +these noble trees upon the ground, I do not mean fallen but erect and +vigorous. The Shaliman Bagh is an extensive and well cultivated pleasure +garden with pavilions, tanks, canals and fountains, in true oriental +style. The upper pavilion is especially worthy of notice having a +verandah built of magnificent black marble veined with quartz +containing gold. It is surrounded by a large tank possessing one hundred +and fifty-nine fountains, and its exterior is grandly if not +artistically painted. The Nishat Bagh is smaller but scarcely less +attractive. It is arranged in a series of fifteen terraces, from which a +splendid view is obtained of the lake and adjacent country. Down its +centre runs a canal, expanding at intervals into tanks and having a +waterfall for each terrace, with a single straight row of fountains +numbering more than one hundred and sixty. Grand hills rise immediately +above it. It contains pavilions of fruit trees, and as a flower garden, +is superior to the Shaliman Bagh. The Suetoo Causeway, is a series of +old bridges and embankments which formerly crossed the lake, and was two +or three miles long, but only portions of it now remain. The two islands +are small and covered with trees, having no interest of themselves, but +adding greatly to the appearance of the lake. They are I believe +artificially constructed. The celebrated floating gardens are very +curious; they were formed by dividing the stalks of the water weeds near +their roots, and sprinkling the surface of them with earth, which +sinking a little way was entangled in the fibres and retained; Fresh +soil was then added, until the whole was consolidated, and capable of +bearing a considerable weight. The ground is now about nine inches +thick, floating upon the surface of the water, and the stalks of the +weeds below it having disappeared. It is exceedingly porous and is used +for the cultivation of water melons, when walking upon it a peculiar +elasticity is perceived, accompanied with a tremulous or jelly like +motion. It is divided into long stripes pierced by a stake at each end, +which secures them in their position and allows of their rising or +falling with the height of the water. An unlucky day for Silly. In the +first place he was _sea-sick_. The use of the broad paddle in a small +boat caused a good deal of shaking, and every stroke is attended with a +sharp jerk forwards--secondly, he mistook a collection of weeds for dry +land and jumped out into the water. This puzzled him immensely, and +after he was recovered he sat for a long time gazing with a bewildered +air upon the surface of the lake. Paid a visit in the afternoon to +Sumnud Shah for the purpose of replenishing my exchequer, but found his +shop better calculated to exhaust it. I'll not go there again. + + +AUGUST 25th.--Lying down inside my tent I just now heard two crows +chuckling and laughing in their way and saying to one another "here's a +joke" or caws to that effect. You need not laugh at this statement or +think that my mind has suddenly become deranged, I merely state a fact. +The language of animals--dumb creatures as fools call them--is far more +expressive than you imagine, and if you had spent the same time and the +same attention that I have in listening to birds notes, you would be +able to understand much of their meaning. Here a conversation carried on +in a foreign tongue, one to which you a perfect stranger, will you be +able to distinguish words? No! you will only hear a confusion of sounds +possessing apparently but little variety. But as you become accustomed +to it the words and syllables will start out into clear relief; so with +birds songs--at first they will appear to you to be always the same, but +they have really different tones and meanings, which you may learn to +appreciate by studying them in connection with their acts. However I +heard the crows say "here's a joke" and guessing I was to be the victim +of it, I immediately jumped up and rushed out. They flew away loudly +exulting and I found my match box,--which I had left on the table broken +to pieces and the matches carefully distributed so as to cover as large +a space of ground as possible; there is a crow's joke for you--there is +not much in it as a joke,--but I introduce it principally to show that +birds talk and that I (clever I) can understand them. I wrote the +foregoing to eke out my notes for the day, not having anything +particular to record. When the Baboo called upon me with the startling +intelligence, all officers from the Peshawur division ordered +immediately to rejoin their respective regiments; this has taken away +the greater number of the visitors and very few are now left in Kashmir. +Why don't I pack up and start? Well, I forgot to mention a short +sentence in the order "except those on medical certificate" which saves +me the trouble and annoyance of hurrying back before the expiration of +my leave. It is on account, I suppose, of the little war we have entered +on with those hill tribes, and I may be missing honour and glory, wounds +and death, neither of which I care to earn from barbarians on the black +mountains. I am sorry for the affair as I fear that from the +inaccessibility of the country the best result will barely escape +disaster. This is a strange day. You see me, one moment trifling with my +thoughts for the sake of occupation and then having matters and subjects +for the deepest consideration suddenly thrust upon me. Ought I to +rejoin? I am indeed protected from the necessity of doing so, but my +health is now fully established and such being the case, is it my duty +to waive my right and return to my regiment. I think not, for the reason +it is not likely that they will weaken the garrison at Peshawur by +sending any of its troops into the field. Its strength is maintained for +the purpose of defence against the Cabulese and other powerful Pathan +tribes immediately surrounding it, who are deadly enemies, and would be +eager to avail themselves of any opportunity for offence. Therefore I +imagine that my regiment will remain in quarter, and do just as well +without me as with me; and therefore have I determined to adhere to my +original plans. + + +AUGUST 26th.--There was a great fire in the town last night; three +hundred houses have been destroyed. I went early to the scene of the +disaster, which is on the left bank of the river adjoining the first +bridge. The embers were still smouldering, and among the ruins the heat +was intense, owing to the houses having been built almost entirely of +wood, little but ashes and charred logs remained of them. Here and there +a few hot bricks retained the semblance of a wall, but the destruction +has been as complete as it is excessive. The bridge has also suffered, +the bank pier having been attacked by the flames, and half the railing +on either side of the foot-way has been torn off and precipitated into +the water. The latter injury was caused I imagine, by the rush of the +crowd over it at the time of the fire. No lives lost I believe. + + +AUGUST 27th.--At six o'clock this morning a Jemindar or military +officer made his appearance, sent by the Baboo, for the purpose of +conducting me over the fort. A row of a mile down the river, and half a +mile walk through the narrow rough crowded and stinking streets of the +town brought us to the outworks, at the foot of the hill on which it is +built. This hill is very steep and several hundred feet high, (I do not +know the exact height, but I think it is between six and seven hundred +feet) and the climb up it was fatiguing. From the top there is an +extensive view, but the morning was misty and the greater part of the +valley indiscernible. In front lies the town, intersected by the Jhelum; +a great desert of mud-covered roofs presenting anything but the green +carpet-like appearance described in books. On the left long lines of +poplars, enclosing the Moonshi Bagh and the various encamping grounds, +with the Tukh-t-i-Suliman rising high above them. Behind, the Dul, +spread out like a sheet of silver with the back ground of mountains, and +many canals radiating and glistening in the sun-light. Of the fort I +have but little to say. From below, its position renders it imposing, +but a nearer inspection dispels the illusion. Inside it there is a +Hindoo temple, two or three tanks filled with green, slimy water, and +some wretched hovels for the occupation of the garrison. The ramparts +though high are weak and a few shells dropped within them would blow +the whole place to pieces. The ordnance consists of four ancient brass +guns; two of them about 9-pounders and the others 32-pounders, but I did +not see a spot from which either of them could be safely fired; and even +if there were bastions strong enough, I doubt if cannon could be +depressed sufficiently to sweep the precipitous sides of the hill. On my +way back to the boat, I turned aside to visit the Jumma Musjid, or chief +Mosque, a large quadrangular wooden building, the roof of which is +supported by deodar columns of great height, each pillar being cut out +of a single tree, but I cannot waste more time over it, the name recalls +to my memory the magnificent Jumma Musjid of Delhi--but comparisons are +odious. When parting with my attendant I felt uncertain whether or no he +would be offended by the offer of a remuneration for his trouble, so I +left him to ask for it, as natives usually do not scruple to request +"bucksheesh" for the most trifling service, but either his orders or his +dignity prevented him from soliciting it, and he went away unrewarded +and I doubt not dissatisfied. After noon I went and selected a lot of +papier maché articles, and gave monograms to be painted upon them. Their +papier maché is fairly made, elaborately painted and moderate in price. +At this shop they prepared some ladâk tea for me, a most delicious +beverage possessing a delicate flavour such as I have never before +tasted in any tea. It was sweetened with a sort of sweet-meat in lieu of +plain sugar. + + +AUGUST 28th.--A blank day, I have done nothing but fish and only caught +one of moderate size. Early in the morning there was a storm attended +with high wind and heavy rain; it cleared up before sun-rise, but its +effect has been to make the day very pleasantly cool. + + +AUGUST 29th.--Went up to the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Solomon's Throne) before +breakfast. It stands one thousand one hundred feet above the town, and +the ascent is effected by means of unhewn stones arranged in the form +of a rough flight of steps built by the Gins, I should fancy for their +own private use and without any consideration for the puny race of +mankind that was destined to follow them. I am a tall man and gifted +with a considerable length of _understanding_ but the strides I was +obliged to take--sometimes almost bounds--if calculated to improve my +muscles, were certainly very trying to my wind. However all things have +an end, and so had that long flight of steps, and at the summit I had +leisure to recover my breath and enjoy the magnificent view. I took care +to have a clear day for this excursion, and the whole valley was seen +stretched out like a map, and spreading far away to the feet of its +stupendous mountain boundaries. The lakes like huge mirrors reflecting a +dazzling radiance. The Jhelum twisting like a "gilded snake" and forming +at the foot of the hill the original of the well-known shawl pattern; +miles upon miles of bright and verdant fields, divided and marked out by +the banks and hedges; clumps and groves of lofty trees diminished by +distance to the appearance of mere dark green bushy excrescences; the +poplar avenue looking like two long and paralleled lines drawn upon the +ground; the fort and hill but a pigmy now; the city of sombre colour, +with its houses closely huddled together and presenting an expanse of +mud--unworthy stone for such a setting! The high and rugged mountains +on every side piercing the clouds, out of which the everlasting snow and +ice rock regions untrod by mortal foot gleam and glisten coldly in the +scene below; these are the constituent parts of a view which taken +altogether ranks among the finest (if indeed it be not itself the +finest) in the world. But I have no description for it as a whole, words +would fail me if I attempted to reproduce it on paper, so you must take +the items and arrange them to your own satisfaction, and wish you had +the opportunity of seeing the glorious original. I am no antiquarian, +but I believe the building itself possesses great interest for those who +indulge in that musty study, on account of its vast antiquity and +uncertain history. To me it is only a Hindoo temple of quaint +architecture and unwholesome smell. Inside it is a small marble idol in +the form of a pillar with a snake carved round it. + + +AUGUST 30th, Sunday.--The beginning of a fresh week which will at its +conclusion find me on my way homewards, my back turned on the lovely +valley and all the beauties that I have witnessed existing only in my +memory like a pleasant dream that has passed. So wags the world, joys +giving place to sorrows, and sorrows in their turn effaced by fresh +happiness or oblivion. For a little while each one of us plays his ever +varying part in the great drama of life. Now bewailing with bursting +heart, and scalding tears the light affliction which is but for a +moment; now with ringing laugh and reckless gaiety he enjoys the +present, forgetful alike of past and future, now with stormy passions +raging he "like an angry ape, plays such fantastic tricks before high +heaven, as make the angels weep;" and then is his short act over, then +the curtain falls and then will he be called before it to receive +approbation? Who can tell, I judge not one individually; but I may +generalize and say, that while as a rule we give a terrible earnestness +to the performance of the _business_ connected with our parts, we too +often fail to appreciate and interpret the _spirit_ of the character, +without which it is of course but a sorry exhibition and one that will +be deservedly damned. As I sit under the shade of the chenars writing, a +young native swell is passing along the opposite bank of the canal--a +mere boy, with gold turban, lofty plume and embroidered clothing, riding +a horse led by two grooms, followed by attendants also mounted, but +sitting two on a horse and preceded by a band consisting only of some +six drummers. He is playing his part doubtless very much to his own +satisfaction, and little thinking that there is one "taking notes" and +laughing at his proceedings. But so it is, we can always see, and +ridicule the faults and foibles of others, would to God we could as +easily perceive and weep over those of our own. The Baboo Mohes Chund +called to pay his farewell visit to me and shortly afterwards sent a +second edition of "russud" including as before--a live sheep. + + +AUGUST 31st.--My last day in Sreenuggur--and now let me make a few +observations on a topic which I dare say you are surprised has not been +mentioned before, I mean the women; the far-famed beauties of Kashmir. I +am not ungallant, while I have been silent, I have been observing, and +have delayed my remarks in order that they might have the benefit of the +largest experience I could command. I did this the more willingly, +because to tell the truth, I was disappointed at first, and I hoped that +by waiting I might eventually have reason to change my unfavourable +opinion. This however has not been the case, and while I intend to do +full justice to their charms I must commence by saying that they have +been grossly exaggerated. I do not of course allude to the higher +classes. They are invisible; they _may_ be very beautiful, but are never +seen by Europeans. But the middle and lower classes go about with the +face uncovered, exposing themselves to the criticism of some and the +admiration of others, and it is of them I speak. The slim elegant figure +of the Hindoo is seldom seen; they are large, plump, round women. Their +complexion has been absurdly compared to that of our brunettes (may they +feel complimented thereby) but veracity compels me to say that they are +_very dark_. Fair indeed by comparison with the Hindoos, but actually +and unmistakeably copper-coloured not to say _black_. In their features +we find a great improvement; a well-shaped nose replaces the expanded +nostrils, compressed lips, the thick pouting ones, their teeth are of +marvellous whiteness and regularity as are those of all Asiatics. Their +cheeks may sometimes have a tinge of pink, but this is usually veiled by +the darker tint of the "rete mucosum." Their eyes--oh! their eyes!--here +lies their beauty, almond-shaped eyes, that when not in anger cannot +help throwing the sweetest and most captivating glances. None of your +trained disciplined eyes, taught to express feelings that do not exist; +but still eyes that equally deceive, eyes that nature in some strange +freak determined should ever look love. Unconsciously and +unintentionally they dart upon you the brightest, the most tender, nay, +even passionate glances. When looking at a young face, you only see the +eyes; eyes so voluptuous, so maddening, that you exclaim "good heavens +what a beautiful creature," and unless you are a calm and cool analyst +like myself, you may not discover that there is really no beauty save in +them. They dress their hair in a peculiar manner. It is plaited in a +number of small plaits joining two larger ones which fall over the +shoulders and unite in the middle of the back to form a long tail +terminating with a tassel. The larger plaits are mixed with wool, this +adds to their bulk, and increase the length of the tail, which often +extends below the knees. They wear a single loose gown, reaching in +ample folds nearly to the feet. On the head a small red skull cap, over +which is thrown the white (too often dirty) "chudder"--a light cloth +which hangs down the back and is used for veiling the face. The +boatwomen are renowned for their beauty. I have seen but little of it. +The Punditanees are said to be more beautiful than the boatwomen. I +consider them even less so. But among the Nautch girls I have seen both +grace and beauty, and as a class, I certainly think far better looking +than the others. Respect to age is a noble feeling--though one that is +unfortunately at a low ebb now-a-days--but truth, compels me and I must +pronounce all the elderly women to be positively ugly, and a woman is +elderly in Kashmir when in England she still might be called young. The +men are a fine race, regular features, broad shouldered and muscular, +wearing their bushy black beards on their faces, but shaving the head, +which is covered with a small coloured skull cap and white turban. Two +other men have pitched their tents under this tope. To-morrow I shall +leave them in undisturbed possession of the whole. They are friends and +have been travelling in Kashmir. I have had a conversation with one of +them, but I don't like strangers and am glad they did not come before. + + +SEPTEMBER 1st.--Up and away, taking a last look at the town and bridges, +a last look at the Tukh-t-i-Suliman while floating down the river. I am +on my way to Baramula, having given up my intended visit to Gulmurg, so +that I may get a week at Murree, and see more of the place than I did +when I was last there. Adieu to Sreenuggur, adieu to the Scind, adieu +to Manusbul; gently onwards we go towards lake Wulloor. It is a bright +clear day, one of the brightest among the many bright ones, and the +valley seems smiling upon me an affectionate farewell in order that the +last recollections and parting scene may be a joyful memory to me in +days and years to come. I thank thee for it. When I am gone let +rain-tears fall and clouds of care bewail my absence, but gladden my +departing moments with the full radiance of thy glorious countenance. +Oh! Kashmir, loveliest spot on earth, I owe thee a deep debt of +gratitude, I came to thee weak in body; thou hast restored my strength, +I was poor in thought; thou hast filled my heart with good things, I +was proud in conceit; thou hast shown me nature's grandeur and my own +littleness. With a voiceless tongue thou hast spoken and my spirit has +heard the unuttered words. Tales of the creation when the morning stars +sang together and all the sons of God shouted for joy; tales of man and +his works perished in the endless roll of ages; tales of the future when +heaven and earth shall have passed away amid the dread terror of the +great tribulation. Aye, and one more tale, a tale of love, mercy, and +forgiveness; the tale of an Asiatic--who, not far from here, was once +"bruised for our transgressions," who took upon Himself the iniquities +of us all and made up for us a mighty deliverance, and to this tale +there is a refrain that echoes from hill to hill, and spreads along the +plain in endless repetition, "believe only and thou shalt be saved," but +though the command is so simple, its eager passionate tone as it swells +around me, and an earnest mournful cadence as it dies away in the +distance, seems to imply that it is neither easily nor commonly obeyed. + + +SEPTEMBER 2nd.--Awoke early and found myself in the broad waters of the +lake, the full moon shining brightly in the west, and yet unpaled by the +rosy dawn that was rapidly illuminating the east. Stopped at Sopoor for +breakfast, and Macnamara, surgeon of the 60th Rifles, and his wife, +arrived soon after me, also bound for Murree. Macnamara was at Peshawur +with me, and was one of the committee that sent me away. We passed the +morning in conversation, and at mid-day continued our journey to +Baramula. He told me that he had heard that I was going home this winter +with troops; but I do not know whether his information is reliable. I +trust it may prove to be so, but it has not raised my hopes to a +certainty. It is a good rule never to reckon confidently upon the +achievement of our desires. It never assists to realise them and only +renders the disappointment more bitter in case of failure. I have a +great hope, but I do not forget that obstacles may arise, that while +man proposes God disposes, and often find myself forming plans for next +year under the supposition that I shall still remain in India. I have +written the dedication of this volume and have written it as if I had +already returned to England, and this may appear to indicate that I rely +strongly upon the fulfilment of my expectation. But not so, I can alter +or destroy it if need be, and shall do so with regret indeed, but +without despair. About halfway between Sopoor and Baramula the wind +increased to a gale and obliged me to take refuge under the bank. I +dined with Macnamara and his wife at 8 o'clock, the weather moderated +and we proceeded to Baramula. + + +SEPTEMBER 3rd.--At sunrise I obtained coolies, and turned my back on +the happy valley for ever. It was a beautiful morning with a golden haze +rising from the ground, the mountains appearing blue and purple against +the eastern halo; but before I had gone a mile a dark cloud gathered +around me, and wept passionate rain. I marched to Naoshera, ten miles, +followed in an hour by Dr. and Mrs. Macnamara who will be my fellow +travellers as far as Murree. The Rohale ferry is re-opened and I am +returning by the direct road on the left bank of the Jhelum. There is a +barahduree at every stage, so I sold my tent at Sreenuggur to render my +baggage lighter. I am travelling with only six coolies. The river is +much lower and less rapid than when I came up it, the excess of water +caused by the melting of the snow during the summer having been carried +off. It is still however a noisy turbulent torrent. + + +SEPTEMBER 4th.--A long march of fourteen miles to Ooree. The road is +becoming very hilly, but is not as yet nearly so rough and difficult as +on the other side. Passed two ruins; one of then very similar to those +at Wangut, but much smaller. + + +SEPTEMBER 5th.--To Chukoti, sixteen miles, a severe and fatiguing march, +the hills being intersected by ravines--the beds of streams--to all of +which there was a steep descent and corresponding ascent. This is the +worst march on the Murree road, but though bad, it is much better than +five or six that I described on my journey from Abbottabad. These long +marches are very detrimental to my diary, for at the conclusion I have +no energy either to think or write. I am not using my dandy now, and +have to walk every inch of the way. + + +SEPTEMBER 6th.--Fifteen weary miles to Huttian, low down on a level with +the river where I found a number of tents belonging to the Lord Bishop +of Calcutta and his Chaplain, who are here with a large retinue of +servants, and are on their way into Kashmir. They had very +considerately and unlike a certain ---- ---- left the bungalow empty for +the use of other travellers. Macnamara sprained his knee yesterday, and +used my dandy to day. One of my coolies stumbled on the road and the +Kitta he was carrying--containing my stores and cooking utensils, went +over the Rhudd and burst open in the fall. Macnamara was behind +fortunately (for me) and superintended the collection of the articles so +that my only loss of any moment is that of my big cooking pot, which +from its weight probably rolled all the way down to the Jhelum--the long +grass growing on the hill, stopped the other things. The six remaining +marches are I am glad to say short. The three last have been a severe +trial on account of the numerous and rough ups and downs, and for the +last mile or two this morning, the soles of my feet were in great pain; +Silly too was very exhausted even to the dropping of his tail. + + +SEPTEMBER 7th.--Got up at daybreak and marched on Chikar, distance ten +miles. For three miles the road continued along the valley of the +Jhelum, and then turned to the south, and crossed several ranges of +hills, each range rising higher than the one before, very hard work it +was, the ascents being so steep and long--I can't keep my breath going +up hill; it is far more fatiguing than any roughness of road. Chikar is +a good sized village with a fort and is situated on the summit of a +mountain at least two thousand feet above the Jhelum. There is a fine +view of the surrounding hills from the Barahduree. Shortly after our +arrival it began to rain, and has turned out a wet day. I had half my +crockery broken by the coolie dropping the basket instead of putting it +carefully down at the conclusion of the march. + + +SEPTEMBER 8th.--To Meira, seven and a half miles, a toilsome hill for +half the distance, and then a descent the rest of the way. Scenery very +pretty, the valleys being much larger and the mountains higher. The +Murree ridge is now visible. From this bungalow we can see the next +halting place, half way up a hill on the opposite side of an extensive +valley deeply cut by ravines. The view is really very grand--much the +finest on this road--in some parts it slightly resembles the scenery +around Darjeeling with, of course, pine trees taking the place of +magnolias and rhododendrons. The mere mention of those trees--magnolias +and rhododendrons I mean--will only give you a misconception of the +Sikin forests, because your ideas will be turned to the stunted shrubs +of our northern latitudes. The magnolias and rhododendrons I speak of, +are huge towering trees, taller than the largest oaks. How well I +remember the magnificent spectacle they presented when in blossom! I +have never seen mountains or forests that could compare in grandeur with +those of the eastern Himalayas. Can you imagine Kishun-gunga twenty-nine +thousand feet high? No! it is impossible; it is a sight that produces +the most intense awe, and when I first looked upon it I did not know how +to contain my feelings; but enough, or I shall be giving you a chapter +quite irrevelant to my journey from Kashmir. By the side of this +bungalow stands a large cypress; a very beautiful and by no means a +common tree. There is something peculiarly rich in its dark green +foliage, and withal, melancholy look, but that is doubtless owing to +its tomb--stone associations. Ince in his "Guide," calls it a +_sycamore_. He could hardly have named a tree more widely different. + + +SEPTEMBER 9th.--To Dunee, eight and a half miles; first half, down hill, +second up: both very steep and rough. A bad fatiguing march. The +barahduree here has been lately white-washed and looks quite refreshing +after the other dirty ones; but the rooms are ridiculously small. This +is the last halt in Kashmirian territory; to-morrow we shall be in a dâk +bungalow. I had a lesson to-day. The same lesson that the spider taught +Bruce--never to cease striving to obtain any desired object; and not +despair even if frequent failures attend the attempt. Ever since I left +Baramula I have been endeavouring to catch another of the green +butterflies, as beetles had eaten my first specimen. But they are very +alert on the wing, and I could not get near one. The last two or three +marches I had not seen any, having got out of their locality, but to-day +a solitary one flew by me and I knocked it down, caught it, and secured +it in my toper. Success will eventually crown all constant endeavours, +it is a slight peg on which to hang a moral, but let it pass. Life is +made up of trifles, and I desire my book to represent my life. A number +of people--ladies, men, and children--came into the bungalow at 2 +o'clock, having made a double march and overtaken us; so we are very +closely packed, even the verandah being occupied. + + +SEPTEMBER 10th.--To Kohala, six miles, nearly all the way down a +terribly steep and rough hill to the banks of the Jhelum--which river +has taken a great bend among the mountains and now runs at right angles +to its former course. A ferry boat crosses the torrent at this spot and +the passage during the summer is attended with considerable danger, as +the stream runs at the rate of twenty miles an hour. I got my baggage in +it and landed upon British soil at the other side. The Dâk bungalow is +just above, but we were very much crowded as all the other people +remained for the night. After dinner a great thunderstorm took place +accompanied with very heavy rain. + + +SEPTEMBER 11th.--Marched to Dargwal, twelve miles, up hill all the way, +but the road is broad and smooth, so that the march was quickly and +easily accomplished. M---- and his wife did not come in till the middle +of the day as they could not get coolies in time to start early. There +is a good furnished bungalow here, our other fellow travellers have gone +on to Murree, so we have the house to ourselves. + + +SEPTEMBER 12th.--To Murree, ten miles, road the same as yesterday. Went +to Woodcot, and found Spurgeon, Gordon, and Egerton, of the 36th; Hensma +and Beadnell, 77th; and Dalrymple, 88th. Put up with them sharing +Spurgeon's room. Spent a pleasant time at Murree, doing very little--a +long rest of ten days after my labours--and on the 22nd, at 1 o'clock, I +took my seat in the mail cart with Redan Massy for my companion, and +started on my journey to Peshawur. Arrived at Rawul Birder at 6 in the +evening, and went on at once by the Government van. Had no time for +food. Got to Peshawur at 7 o'clock next morning, and thus ended my three +months sick leave. And now I go back to the din and bustle of life, the +empty conventionalities of society, the noise and glitter of mess; to +the re-pursuit of my profession, and to learn again by the bedside of +many a dying man how weak and powerless is that profession to combat the +ills that flesh is heir to. I sometimes wish I could exchange my present +calling. Terrible thoughts often assail me, after the death of any of my +patients. Questions as to whether I am at all responsible for the fatal +issue. Whether by lack of knowledge that I should possess or by careless +observation during the progress of the disease, I have allowed a man to +die who might have been saved, or pushed into the grave one who was only +trembling with uncertainty upon its brink. Yet as a set off against +these feelings there is the satisfaction experienced when sufferings are +relieved or health restored by the interposition of my aid. The +profession of medicine is potent for good and evil. For good in the +hands of him who makes it his lifelong study; for evil in his hands who +adopts it merely as a respectable means of obtaining his livelihood. It +is noble in the one case; detestable in the other. You do not know how +detestable. If the vail could be raised, if you could see the vast +amount of misery and suffering caused, the many hearts broken that God +would not have made sad; and the many unprepared souls hurried out of +this life into eternity by the ignorance of men who are "licensed to +kill," you would cry out against the whole body of the profession with a +bitter hatred, that even the army of noble and devoted minds amongst us +would be unable to appease. Am I too severe? I fear not. There are +charlatans and know nothings in every pursuit, but in mine they effect +so seriously the temporal and may be eternal welfare of mankind that +their existence is awful to contemplate. Shall I, in conclusion, write +an apology for having nothing better than the foregoing to offer for +your perusal "devil a bit." If I have written folly and you have read it +all, why, you are the greater simpleton. To me it was an occupation when +I had nothing better to do, on your part it was a foolish waste of +time, which might have been more profitably employed. If I have written +folly and you have _not_ read it, what necessity is there for me to +apologize to you? If I have written sense and you consider it nonsense, +you owe me an apology for your erroneous opinion. But if I have written +sense and you have derived pleasure from the perusal of it, then we are +both content, and I need neither forefend your criticism nor beg your +excuses. Thus then I have proved that though it may possibly be +necessary for you to apologize to me, it cannot under any circumstance +be needful for me to apologize to you. But there is a small class to +whom the above remarks do not apply. I mean those few who I delight to +think will read my book diligently and admiringly, merely because _I_ +wrote it. Whose judgment is warped by their affection, and who will be +unconscious of the weary yawn my pages may often produce. Shall I +apologize to them? No! let them read, let them yawn; T'is a labour of +love on their part, a labour which _love_ has prepared for them--and for +them alone--or mine. + +And now farewell. May your shadow _never_ grow less! May you live for a +thousand years. + +HAZOR SALAAM. + + +JANUARY 16th, 1869.--If these notes should ever be written out by my +relations after my death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the +many mistakes in spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of +the writing, may by corrected and not set down to ignorance. + + + + +LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. + +Prince Frederic of Schleswig Holstein. +His Excellency Lieut.-General E. Frome, R.E., Governor of Guernsey. +Sir P. Stafford Carey, Bailiff of Guernsey. +Edgar MacCulloch, Esq., Lieutenant-Bailiff. +William Wallace Armstrong, Esq., San Francisco. A.B. +Mrs. Boucaut, Guernsey. +General Sir George Brooke, K.C.B., R.H.A. +Lieut.-Col. H.J. Buchanan, 2-9th Regiment. +Major Henry L. Brownrigg, 84th Regiment. +Henry S.R. Bagenal, Esq., Control Department. +Captain George P. Beamish, 36th Regiment. +Mr. George Beedle, Quarter-Master 6th Regiment. +A. Brown, Esq., National Provincial Bank of England. +J. P. Bainbrigge, Esq., Bank of England, Liverpool. +J. Banckes, Esq., Shipwrecked Mariners' Society. +Mrs. Crawford, Guernsey. +Mrs. Cunnynghame, Edinburgh. +W. Collins, Esq., M.D., Scots Fusilier Guards. +Mrs. Cave, Hartley Whitney, Hants. +Captain G. Collis, 6th Regiment. +Colonel Conran, Fitzroy, Melbourne. +H. Couling, Esq., Brighton. +H. Cuppaidge, Esq. +Miss Dugdale, 75, Gloucester Terrace, Hyde Park, W. +Miss E. Donne, Grove Terrace Highgate. +Miss Donne, Salisbury. +James D'Altera, Esq., M.D. +James Deane, Esq., Queenstown, Cork. +W.G. Don, Esq., M.D. +Dr. Drewitt, Wimborne, Dorset. +Dr. Dudfield, 8, Upper Phillimore Place, Kensington, W. +B. De Marylski, Esq., Royal Artillery. +Captain P. De Saumarez, Guernsey. +Captain D.K. Evans, 6th Regiment. +Mrs. W. Foster, 7, Lower Berkeley Street, London. +Mrs. E. Foster, 10, Chester Terrace, Regent's Park. +Mrs. Feilden, Isle of Herm. +Major-Gen. Sampson Freeth, late Royal Engineers. +Major-Gen. James H. Freeth, late Royal Engineers. +Colonel Foster, late 16th Lancers. +The Rev. W. Foran, Guernsey. +Walter Freeth Esq., Croydon. +Henry Foster Esq., Victoria Road, Kensington. +Patterson Foster, Esq. +Kingsly, O. Foster, Esq. +Mrs. F.W. Gosselin, Guernsey. +Rev. F. Giffard, The Vicarage, Hartley Wintney. +John C. Guerin, Esq., Guernsey. +S.M. Gully, Esq., 9th Regiment. +F.L. Grundy, Esq., 6th Regiment. +M. Garnier, Guernsey. +Mrs. Horridge. +Lieut.-Col. Fitzwilliam Hunter, 36th Regiment. +T. Holmes, Esq., 18, Great Cumberland Place, Hyde Park. +Captain J.B. Hopkins, 6th Regiment. +Reginald Hollingworth, Esq., late 77th Regiment. +T. Husband, Esq., 34, Argyle Road, Kensington. +Charles Hogge, Esq., 6th Regiment. + +In Memoriam. +Miss B.S.H. Coventry Jeffery. +Captain A.H. Josselyn, 9th Regiment. +J.W. Jones, Esq., 5th Dragoon Guards. +The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A. +Mr. J. Kenwood, Hartley Wintney. +Mrs. Le Marchant Thomas Le Marchant, Guernsey. +Miss Lefebvre, Guernsey. +Mrs. La Serre, Guernsey. +Sir T. Galbraith Logan, K.C.B., Director General. +Thomas Lacy, Esq., Guernsey. +Major R.B. Lloyd, 36th Regiment. +"Library," Officers, 36th Regiment. +Mr. Thomas Lenfestey, Guernsey. +Mrs. MacPherson, Guernsey. +Mrs. Mogg, Clifton. +Mrs. Peter Martin, Guernsey. +Mrs. Myers, Guernsey. +A.D. MacGregor, Esq., Guernsey. +Capt. A.E. Morgan, late 71st Highland Lt. Inf. +Captain J.W. Massey, 9th Regiment. +J.W. Morgan, Esq., 6th Regiment. +James E. Macdonnel, Esq., 9th Regiment. +W.H. Marriot, Esq., 36th Regiment. +S.M. Maxwell, Esq., 36th Regiment. +A. Morgan, Esq., Treasurer, S.W. Railway. +The Mess, 36th Regiment. +W. Moullin, Esq., Clifton. +Miss A.M. Newman, Cheltenham. +The Rev. E.J. Ozanne, M.A., Guernsey. +Captain J. Osmer, 36th Regiment. +E.F. O'Leary, Esq., 6th Regiment. +Mrs. Joshua Priaulx, Guernsey. +Mr. Charles Palmer, Hartley Wintney. +Miss M. Pittard Guernsey. +Colonel Priaulx, Guernsey. +Colonel Lewis Peyton. +G. Pollock, Esq., 36, Grosvenor Street, London, W. +C.W. Poulton, Esq., 35th Regiment. +G. Pound; Esq., Odiham, Hants. +Mrs. Ramsay, Isle of Sark. +John Roberts, Esq., M.D., Guernsey. +George M. Richmond, Esq., 36th Regiment. +J.L. Rose, Esq., 36th Regiment. +Mrs. Sandes, St. John's Hill, London, S.W. +Mrs. R. Smith, Guernsey. +Lieut.-Col. R. Scott, Fort George, Aberdeen. +Major Charles Stirling, late Royal Artillery. +Dr. Fowler Smith, District Recruiting Office, Peterborough. +Capt. C. Spurgeon, 36th Regiment. +Capt. H. Stopford, 36th Regiment. +W. Smail, Esq., 36th Regiment. +R.B. Smyth, Esq., M.B. 102d Regiment. +Mrs. Threllfall, Ferryside, South Wales. +Capt. C. Townsend, Royal Artillery. +D. Thorburn, Esq., M.D., 8th Hussars. +Mrs. Wren, 3 Paris Square, Bayswater. +Charles Williams, Esq., Guernsey. +Watkin S. Whylock, Esq., M.D., Assist.-Surgeon. +Capt. H. Webb, 36th Regiment. +Mr Wetheral, Oak Lodge, Winchfield. +Netley Library. +And "Others received too late for publication." + + + +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, BORDAGE-STREET. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Months of My Life, by J. F. 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The relations may indeed have +corrected many errors, but many remain, and they have been left as in +the original.]</i></p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h1>THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE.</h1> + + +<h2>A DIARY</h2> + +<h2>OF THE LATE J.F. FOSTER, ASSISTANT-SURGEON, HER MAJESTY'S 36TH FOOT.</h2> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><i>Edited by LIZZIE A. FREETH.</i></h2> + + +<h4> +GUERNSEY:<br /> +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, 10, BORDAGE STREET.<br /> +LONDON: SIMPKIN & MARSHALL<br /> +1873.<br /> +</h4> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2>I DEDICATE,</h2> + +<h3><i>Firstly,</i></h3> + +<h2> +MY GRATITUDE TO GOD—<br /> +FOR HIS MERCY IN PRESERVING ME THUS FAR,<br /> +AND BRINGING ME SAFELY HOME AFTER<br /> +SEVERAL YEARS SERVICE IN INDIA,<br /> +TO MEET AGAIN ALL (SAVE ONE) THOSE MOST<br /> +DEAR TO ME.<br /> +</h2> +<h3> +<i>And Secondly,</i> +</h3> +<h2> +MY BOOK TO MY PARENTS,<br /> +WITH THE CERTAIN AND HAPPY KNOWLEDGE<br /> +THAT THEY WILL READ WITHOUT CRITICISM<br /> +AND ONLY WITH AFFECTIONATE INTEREST,<br /> +THE ACCOUNT OF MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES<br /> +WHILE WANDERING IN A REMOTE<br /> +AND LOVELY CORNER OF<br /> +THE EARTH.<br /> +</h2> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#EDITORS_PREFACE">Editor's Preface.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#AUTHORS_PREFACE">Author's Preface.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#INTRODUCTION">Introduction.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#THREE_MONTHS_OF_MY_LIFEquot">"Three Months Of My Life."</a> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#LIST_OF_SUBSCRIBERS">List Of Subscribers.</a></td></tr></table> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="EDITORS_PREFACE" id="EDITORS_PREFACE"></a>EDITOR'S PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>In laying the following pages before the public, I do so with a feeling +that they will be read with interest, not only by those who knew the +writer, but those to whom the scenes described therein are known, and +also those who appreciate a true description of a country which they may +never have the good fortune to see. We are all familiar with Kashmir in +the "fanciful imagery of Lalla Rookh," at the same time may not object +to reading an account—with a ring of truth in it—of that lovely land, +lovely and grand, beyond the power of poets to describe as it really +is, so travellers say. Readers will see that Mr. Foster intended to have +published this Diary himself had he been spared to reach England, he has +offered any apology that is necessary, so I will say nothing further +than to state, the daily entries were kept in a pocket-book written in +pencil, occasionally a word is not quite legible, that will account for +any little inaccuracy. After being two years at Elizabeth College, +Guernsey, under the Rev. A. Corfe, Mr. Foster entered St. George's +Hospital, as Student of Medicine, he received there in his last year the +"Ten Guinea Prize" for General Proficiency. From St. George's he went to +Netley, and on leaving that he served for a short time in Jersey, with +the 2nd Battallion 1st Royals, and 1st Battallion 6th Royals, after +which he embarked for India, where from February, 1868, to the beginning +of 1869, he served with the following Regiments, &c., 91st Highlanders, +at Dum Dum; F Battery C. Brigade Royal Horse Artillery, at Benares; 27th +Inniskillings, at Hazareebagh, Bengal Depôt, Chinsurah; Detachment 58th +Regiment, at Sahibgunge; Head-Quarters 58th Regiment, at Sinchal, again +at the Bengal Depôt Chinsurah; Head-Quarters 107th Regiment, at +Allahabad; Detachment 107th Regiment, at Fort Allahabad; G Battery 11th +Brigade Royal Artillery, at Cawnpore; Left Wing 36th Regiment, +Moradabad; Head-Quarters 36th Regiment, Peshawur, from whence +ultimately we find he started for Kashmir in the hope of regaining his +health, a vain hope as events proved, as he died on the passage home at +Malta. During the course of publication I have received many letters +from people who were personally acquainted with Mr. Foster who had met +him at home and abroad, from the tone of which letters I gather he was +held in the highest possible estimation as a friend, a medical man, and +an officer. I am indebted to the kindness of his father, Dr. John L. +Foster, of this island, for being allowed to publish these interesting +memorials of one who had now passed "To where beyond these voices there +is peace."</p> + +<p class="smcap">Lizzie A. Freeth.</p> +<p>Montpellier, Guernsey, Nov. 1873.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="AUTHORS_PREFACE" id="AUTHORS_PREFACE"></a>AUTHOR'S PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>This Work requires few prefatory remarks. I have transcribed without +alteration, the Diary that I kept during my visit to Kashmir. It may +seem a strange jumble of description and sentiment, jocularity and +seriousness. During the greater part of each day I enjoyed perfect rest, +smoking and thinking—sometimes soberly, often I fear idly—and for mere +occupation sake, my thoughts were written as they arose. My mind as +influenced by scene or incident, is fully exposed in these pages, and +while I have concealed nothing, neither have I added to that which I +originally indited. I am necessarily, and indeed intentionally +egotistical, because I write for those who will chiefly value a personal +narrative. Still, I am not ashamed if others see my book, although I +would deprecate their criticism by begging them to remember that I only +offer it for the perusal of those near and dear to me.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> + + +<p>In the early morning of Midsummer's-day, 1868, I might have been seen +slowly wending my way towards the office of the Deputy Inspector General +of Hospitals, at Peshawur—for the purpose of appearing before the +standing Medical Committee of the station, and having an enquiry made +concerning the state of my health. A Dooley followed me lest my strength +should prove inadequate to the task of walking a quarter of a mile. But +let me make my description as short as the Committee did their enquiry. +My face, as white as the clothes I wore, told more than my words could, +and I was hardly required to recount how that one burning May-day I was +called at noon to visit a sick woman, and that while all other Europeans +were in their closed and darkened bungalows with punkahs swinging, and +thermautidotes blowing cool breezes, I went forth alone on my medical +mission to encounter the fierce gaze of the baneful sun, and was +overpowered by its fiery influence, or how that I laid a weary month on +the sick bed, tormented by day with a never ceasing headache, and by +night with a terrible dread, worse than any pain, or to conclude, how +the deadly climate of that notoriously evil station afforded me no +prospect of improvement. This relation was scarcely needed to procure +me a certificate, stating that three months leave of absence to Murree +was absolutely essential for my recovery, and a recommendation that I +might be allowed to proceed immediately in anticipation of the leave +being granted. So the next evening saw me start from Peshawur for Rawul +Pindee, in a Dâk Gharie, accompanied by my dog "Silly" and my Madrapee +servant or "Boy." Onwards we sped at a gallop, the horses being changed +every six miles, through Nowshera, the furnace; over the rapid and icy +cold Indus by boat; past Fort Attock, the oven in which our soldiers are +done to death; and Hussan Aboul of Lallah Rooke celebrity; arriving at +the French Hotel at Pinder, ten miles from Peshawur the following +morning. That day I called upon the Officers of the 6th Foot, with whom +I had served in Jersey, and was persuaded to dine at mess. A melancholy +dinner it was for me, meeting old friends whom I had not seen for so +long. Yet not possessing energy enough for conversation or feeling the +spirit of "Hail fellows, well met." I felt that my moody silence and +ghostlike appearance (for I was dressed in black) threw a gloom over +them. This was no doubt a morbid fancy as also was perhaps the idea that +they looked at me with pitying eyes. But these feelings seized me, and +increased till they became unbearable, and I was glad to escape to my +Hotel.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="THREE_MONTHS_OF_MY_LIFEquot" id="THREE_MONTHS_OF_MY_LIFEquot"></a>"THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE."</h2> + +<h3>A DIARY.</h3> + + +<p>JULY 4th, 1868.—Started from Murree for Kashmir at 5.30 a.m. Bell, +Surgeon 36th Regt. [Since deceased] came with me four miles. Walked on +expecting the dandy to overtake me, but it did not, and I marched all +the way, nine miles up a steep hill to Khaira Gullee, where I halted and +put up in one of the old sheds formerly used by the working party when +the road was being made. I am not tired, though my left heel is +blistered, which is fair considering I have not walked half a mile for +more than a month. The road is excellent and the scenery fine, the Khuds +being sometimes deep, but nothing like the eastern Himalayas. The forest +too is quite different, fir trees predominating here. Saw many beautiful +birds, and regretted I had not brought my gun. In the evening a +thunderstorm came on with a cold wind from the north, so I made a good +fire with a few fir logs. In the middle of the night the storm became +very violent, and large hailstones fell.</p> + + +<p>JULY 5th.—Got away at sunrise, the rain having quite cleared off, and +marched on to Doonga Gullee, up a hill to an elevation of 9,000 feet, +and then down again to about 7,000; then up a final steep to Doonga +Gullee, 8,000 feet above the sea. The Khuds much grander very deep and +precipitous, sometimes falling one or two thousand feet from the edge of +the road almost perpendicularly. But the hills are too close together to +allow the valleys to be termed magnificent. Reached Doonga Gullee at 10 +a.m. The length of last march, eleven miles—the road, a good military +one, has been cut in the face of the mountain. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, and dined with the officers of the working party; among them +Heath, of the 88th, and Leggatt and Lyons, of the 77th, whom I knew. A +number of tents are pitched here for the working parties from the 19th +and 77th Regiments (road making). I was carried part of the march in my +dandy—a piece of carpet gathered at each end and hooked to a pole,—the +pole being carried on the shoulders of two men. I swung below it just +off the ground, and could often look down a vast depth between my knees. +My first pickled tongue, cooked the day before yesterday was fly-blown +at breakfast this morning. This may seem a trifling note, but it is +ominous I fear for the whole of my salted stores.</p> + + +<p>JULY 6th.—Got up at 4 o'clock and marched on to Bugnoota, a distance +of thirteen miles. The first four miles a slight rise, and then a rapid +descent all the rest of the way. The road is much narrower, only a mule +track in fact, I walked twelve miles, and then felt tired, and had a +headache afterwards. Pitched my tent in a tope, (a grove of trees) in +company with Dr. and Mrs. Holmes, of Rohat, whom I did not know. Slight +rain in the middle of the day, but it cleared off towards evening. Felt +all right after an hour's sleep and took a stroll before dinner. Scenery +grand, tent pitched on the edge of a deep gorge at the bottom of which +is a mountain stream, the hills rising abruptly on the opposite side.</p> + + +<p>JULY 7th.—Marched on to Abbottabad at sunrise, down hill to the river, +and then along its course for two miles over very rough and fatiguing +ground, the river having to be forded twice. In rainy weather this is +very dangerous as its rush is so impetuous. Up hill again then down into +the plain of Abbottabad, 4,000 feet above the sea. Distance twelve miles +though only put down eight in the route. Met the General at the bottom +of the hill. Put up at the Dâk Bungalow, and met Ford, 88th, and De +Marylski, R.A., returning from Kashmir, got some hints from them. +Abbottabad is a small cantonment on a large plain surrounded by bare +mountains, a notice is posted in my room warning travellers not to go +unarmed; so I'll gird on my Kookery to-morrow. A Kookery is a formidable +native knife, about eighteen inches long and over two inches wide, +carried in a peculiar way, sheep and goats heads come off very easily at +a single blow from it. Much hotter down here, the sun powerful after 10 +o'clock, but Punkahs not necessary. This is the Head-Quarters of the +Punjab Frontier force. A pity they do not have an English Regiment +stationed here as it is a very pleasant place as regards climate. Snow +in winter, and this the warmest time of the year quite bearable. +Brigadier gone to the <i>hills</i> for the <i>hot weather.</i> Took in supplies of +bread and butter and purchased a pair of chuplus or sandals for +marching in, as boots hurt my feet.</p> + + +<p>JULY 8th.—A long tedious march of nearly fifteen miles to Mansera, put +down in the guide as a level plain road, but having a good many ups and +downs. One of my sandals broke, and I was obliged to ride in the dandy +about half way. Some difficulty occurred in getting my baggage off as +the Coolies did not come. Left my boy to manage it, he came in about +noon with two ponies, I shall not pay for them yet, and then they will +come on with me. A warmer day than yesterday. Mountains rising up in +front, which I shall begin to ascend to-morrow if I make the whole march +of twenty miles. Snow visible above all. The real work of the trip will +now soon commence. The marches hitherto have been child's play compared +with those to come. Mansera is only a native village, but there is a Dâk +Bungalow, in which I am now. Met Captain Ellis, of the 4th Hussars, +returning from Kashmir, and had a talk with him. There are <i>two</i> routes +open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by +the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as +to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has +only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for +I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast +with the plains of India.</p> + + +<p>JULY 9th.—Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to +Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in +sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on. +First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an +undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking +owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it +as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to +Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance +rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by +high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting +of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at +the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank +of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension +bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I +look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are +two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have +not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell +all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under +flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of +ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a +small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight +feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin, +salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one +bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy +or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking +utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with +white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap, +tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into +Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voilà tout." For carrying this baggage, +I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable, +seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going +all the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day, +and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent some +Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian +fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without +much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as +of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant +music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time +in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been +altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen +and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few +men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate, +when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many experiences +to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully done up towards +the end of the march. At last we came to a running stream in which he +laid down and was much refreshed, before that his panting had become +gasping though he kept up with us bravely, only lying down for a moment +when we came to a little bit of shade—not often met with, the last +three or four miles. For the last day or two, I have been almost +continually in a cool, gentle perspiration, this is a great contrast to +my state when at Peshawur, where my skin was always as dry as a bone, +and I look upon that as a healthy symptom, I have had no headache since +I left Bugnostan.</p> + + +<p>JULY 10th.—To Mozufferabad nine miles, but apparently much more, such a +bad fatiguing march. I got away with the first grey of the dawn and +after a mile's tramp began the ascent of the Doabbuller pass, three and +a half miles long and very steep, so steep that I could often touch the +ground with my hands without stooping much. This was terribly exhausting +and I had to make many halts to recover my breath. Then began a rough +descent along the side of a mountain torrent and afterwards over its +bed, which is a narrow gorge between high hills. This walking was very +rough and difficult; the path being covered with great stones and often +undistinguishable. Indeed it was no path at all, only the ground +occasionally a little trodden. Through the stream, backwards and +forwards <i>innumerable</i> times we went. I found that my feet, though naked +except where covered by the straps of the sandals, were able to take +care of themselves, and avoid contusion almost without the help of my +eyes. Then I came to a large and rapid river called the Kishun-gunga +crossed by a rope bridge. Let me describe the bridge. Three or four +leather ropes about one inch in diameter tied into a bundle to walk +upon, three feet above this, a couple of ropes, two feet apart, the +upper ropes connected to the lower one at intervals of four or five +yards by stakes. This formed a V shape, and you walk on the point of the +V and hold on by the two sides. The breadth of the river is sixty yards, +and the bridge which is high above the water forms a considerable curve. +The description of the bridge is easy enough, but how shall I describe +my feelings, when I had gone a few yards and found myself poised in +mid-air like a spider on a web, oscillating, swaying backwards and +forwards over a foaming and roaring torrent, the rush of the water if I +looked at my feet, made me feel as if I was being violently carried in +the opposite direction; the bridge swayed and jumped with the weight of +half a dozen natives coming from the opposite side whom I had to pass, +the whole thing seemed so weak and the danger so terrible that I turned +giddy, lost my head, and cried out to be held. A firm hand at once +grasped me behind and another in front. I shut my eyes and so proceeded +a few yards. Then those dreadful men had to be passed. Imagine meeting +a man on a rope fifty feet above a torrent and requiring him to "give +you the wall." However they were passed by a mysterious interlacing of +feet; and when half way over I regained confidence, and bid the men +"chando" or release me, and so gained the opposite bank, where I sat +down and roared with laughter at my "boy" who was then coming over, and +who evidently was much more affected than I was. However he arrived +safely with his black face <i>pale</i>, dripping with perspiration and saying +he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one +in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally +laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go +down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low +ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by +the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge, +for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow +built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves +the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet +weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's +Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from +him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book. +There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the +bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick. +It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream. +Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated +Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for +carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they +were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite side. +To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their +impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to certain +destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the whole +of this march, though often tired, as I preferred trusting my own legs +to being carried in the dandy over such bad ground. Curran, +Assistant-Surgeon, 88th Connaught Rangers, is one march in front of me. +He has left his pony here till he returns. I suppose the last march was +too much for him. I am very glad I did not bring my horse with me; I was +strongly advised to do so, but I am afraid advice has not much weight +with me; in this instance anyhow, my own opinion has proved the best. +All the men I meet coming back have horses with them, but they are +nearly all shoeless, lame and sick, and have not been ridden for weeks.</p> + + +<p>JULY 11th.—Marched on Hultian, distant seventeen miles. Much better +road than yesterday, but many ups and downs and short rough bits. +Started two hours before sunrise, by the light of the moon. The road +soon reached the right bank of the Jhelum and continued the whole +distance alongside of that river. It is a rapid river apparently not so +deep and often not so wide as the Kishun-gunga, its bed strewn with huge +boulders over which the water breaks in great waves of foam. It runs in +a narrow rocky channel the precipitous sides of which are a great +height. How many ages must it have taken to cut this channel in the +solid rock? The valley is bounded by high hills, very narrow, the road +so bare of trees, that the latter half of the march became hot and +wearying, so I had recourse to the dandy for four or five miles. But it +was rare gymnastic exercise as swinging from my pole I had to dodge the +great stones on either side of me and keep a sharp look out to avoid +hard bumps. My dog was again very much fatigued. His tail is a good +token of his state, for when fresh it is stiff along his back, and +gradually drops as he goes along until he is quite exhausted, when it +hangs straight down. Stopped at a Barahduree (not so good a one as the +last) a few feet above the Jhelum in which I bathed. There is a rope +bridge opposite, a much older one than the other I crossed, but not more +than half as long, and not high above the water, some of the ropes are +broken, and it seems very shaky. However, I must cross it to-morrow and +get into the Murree road, which runs parallel to this one, on the other +bank, and is on the shady side and much cooler. It has been very hot all +day. The reason I could not come the direct road from Murree is because +the ferry over the Jhelum lower down, was recently carried away and +twenty-six natives drowned. Sir G. Larpent's (of the 88th) baggage was +in the boat, and he lost it all. He had not crossed and had to go back +to Murree minus everything including servants. There is excellent +Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of +80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me, +and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do +anything but moon about. I did not then know the great exertion +necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily +infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with +an undertaker. Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and +supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must +keep to it and not cross as I intended. In the evening a slim young +native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, "a +present." I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and +plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below +the bungalow. He then went up the river again, and swam down to this +side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous +velocity. I gave him eight annas for it.</p> + + +<p>JULY 12th, "Sunday."—In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was +sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning +to rain, and I had to move into the house. It was broad daylight when I +was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed. I said it would rain, and +I would halt. My boy said, "No Sir, no rain." I said the sun would come +out and it would be burning hot. He said, "No Sir, no sun." I felt it +was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda, +eighteen miles, walking all the way. A hard march, nothing but steep +rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the +river, but two or three hundred feet above it. My Coolies pointed out to +me a herd of "chiken" on a very high hill, at least four miles away. I +saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to +very small objects, but did not dispute with them. They say uncivilized +man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far +higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect. Met three +men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them. Don't know who +they were. Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and +was delighted to see it was quite close to me. But alas! several weary +miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could +be reached. This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future +put no faith in appearances. The Barahduree here is a two storied one, +standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is +here confined in a very narrow channel. I took the upper room which has +three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which +there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains +being crowned with pine forests. Had neither sun nor rain while +marching, but soon afterwards the sun shone out, though heavy and +threatening clouds continued to hang about the horizon. As I write this +I hear the first roll of thunder, there will be another storm to-night. +The Maharajah's officials come to me at every stage to enquire my wants +and provide for the same. Other natives also come with an insane +request,—a medical prescription for a sick Bhai (or brother) who +always has fever, and is at a great distance. What possible use a +prescription could be to them I cannot decide. The storm came up just +before dinner, 6 p.m., and was rather sharp but soon over. I came up the +valley of the Jhelum, and I watched its course for some time before it +arrived. It subsequently struck the edge of the house and I was all +right; had it come down the valley which runs at right angles to the +Jhelum just opposite here I should have been blown out. I again noticed +that to which my attention has often been directed, viz.: that when in +or near the storm clouds, the thunder is of quite a different character +to that heard below. It is a continuous low muttering growl without any +claps or peals. I have stood in the storm cloud at Sinchal, 9,000 feet +high, with the lightning originating around me and affording the +sublimest spectacle of dazzling brilliancy, and varying in colour from +the purest white light to delicious rose and blue tints. I have seen it +intensified and focussed as it were within a few feet of me, and from +this centre angled lines and balls of fire like strings of beads +radiated in all directions. Yet the thunder which in the plains was +heard pealing and roaring its loudest, was up there barely audible.</p> + + +<p>JULY 13th.—From Kunda to Kuthin twelve miles of hard toiling over a +similar road to that of the last march, finishing with a long, steep, +and very rough ascent to the high plateau on which Kuthin stands. On the +top of this I took to my dandy and was carried a mile along the level to +the Barahduree, where I slept upon the charpoy which is provided at +every bungalow for the weary travellers to rest upon pending the arrival +of his baggage. These plateaus or table lands exist at intervals all the +way up the valley, sometimes on one side sometimes on the other and +occasionally on both the river in the middle. They are quite flat, very +small, and highly productive, and vary from fifty to three or four +hundred feet in height, above the river. The valley which widens where +they exist, is narrowed again at either extremity. I can only account +for their formation by supposing that at a former time, a chain of lakes +existed, of which they are the beds, and that the water subsequently +burst through and formed the channel of the present Jhelum, leaving +these beds dry as we now see them. Came across a number of large tailed +butterflies of a lovely green and blue metallic lustre. Secured an +un-injured specimen, and for want of a better place stuck it inside my +topee, where I expect to carry it safely until my return to Peshawur. +Another storm came on earlier than yesterday. I have been very lucky +hitherto, not having had a drop of rain while marching. This morning was +cloudy till within a mile or two of Kuthin when the sun shone and made +the last ascent doubly trying. This is a very small village (at Kunda +there was only one hut) but there is a mud fort with bastions at each +corner but no guns. The walls are loop-holed for musketry, but there +does not seem to be any garrison. On making enquiries, I find there is a +garrison of seven men. It is getting dusk and mosquitoes are coming out +by hundreds, they have not annoyed me before, but I think I must use my +net to-night. I lie on my bed after dinner smoking with a lighted candle +by my side. A hornet flies in and settles on my hand, then a large +beetle comes with a buzz and a thud against me, making me start. Sundry +moths, small flies, and beetles, are playing innocently round the flame. +In half an hour I shall be able to make a fair entomological collection +but as I neither (Ha! I've killed the hornet) desire them in my hat +dead, nor in my bed alive, I must put out the light, give up writing, +and smoke in darkness.</p> + + +<p>JULY 14th.—To Shadera, twelve miles walked all the way. The road worse +than ever, and for the last mile actually dangerous, as it passed along +the edge of a deep precipice, and was only a foot wide and considerably +out of the horizontal, so that a single false step would have been +fatal. Road continued same character all the way along, though much +above the tortuous and noisy Jhelum, and its ups and downs were the +roughest, longest, and most trying, I have yet experienced. I am pleased +to know that the remaining two marches will be, in the words of my +Coolies over "uch'-cha rasta," a good road. It remained cloudy and +threatening the greater part of the way, and a little rain fell, but +eventually the sun shone, though great masses of "cumuli" continue to +hang about. This is a small village completely shut in by three huge +hills standing very close together. Between the sides of the two in +front, the summit of a fourth is visible, a magnificent towering +mountain, covered with a dense pine forest. I have not seen the snows +since I crossed the Doobbullee pass, as we have been ascending the +valley of the Jhelum ever since, and the view is confined by its lofty +sides. I have eaten my last loaf for breakfast this morning, and now one +of the greatest privations of the journey will begin. No bread, nothing +but flour and water made into a kind of pancake, which the natives call +"chepattie." I have not tasted fresh meat since I left Abbottabad, but +that one can do very well without. I live upon fowls, eggs, milk, butter +and rice, with a tongue or hump, cooked when necessary. Two or three +miles from Kuthai, we passed a very pretty waterfall. The slender stream +fell over a smooth perpendicular rock, of a rich brown colour, 100 feet +high, like a thread of silver. Both sides of the gorge covered with a +variety of beautifully green trees, shrubs and ferns, altogether +constituting a delightful picture, the tints mingled so harmoniously, +yet with strong contrasts. Stopped at the Barahduree as usual, this one +surrounded with wild fig, plum, peach, pomegranate, and mulberry trees. +The mulberries only ripe, and like all wild fruit, small and +comparatively tasteless.</p> + + +<p>JULY 15th.—Started as soon as it was light for Gingle, fourteen miles +distant. Road greatly improved, hilly of course, but tolerably smooth so +that one could get on without clambering. About half way passed Dorie on +the left bank of the river, where there is another fort and a strong +rope bridge, it is one of the halts on the Murree road, farther on came +to an old ruin, four thick walls perforated by arches enclosing an open +square in the middle of two of the sides, large masses of masonry formed +archways or entrances. It is built of the rough stones and boulders with +which the surface of the ground is covered, yet the arches are of very +good shape. On the opposite bank of the Jhelum there are forests of +Deodar, but though they grow down to the waters edge, there is not one +on this side. (Larix Deodora, called by the Hindoos, "the God Tree" is a +stately pine, growing to a great height, and of a very gradual and +elegant taper. Its foliage is of the darkest green colour, and it gives +the mountains a very sombre appearance.) The hills have become much more +rugged and abrupt. I know of no single condition which gives a scene so +great an aspect of wildness and desolation, as dead fir trees. There +they stand on the most barren and inaccessible places, rearing their +gaunt and whitened forms erect as ever, and though lifeless yet not +decayed. Seared and blasted by a thousand storms, they stand stern and +silent, ghostlike and immoveable, scorning the elements. No wind murmurs +pleasantly through their dead and shrunken branches, the howling tempest +alone can make them speak, and then with wild straining shriek and harsh +rattle, they do battle with the whirlwind. It was getting hot and I was +thinking of my dandy, when a storm passed over with heavy rain. This was +a mitigated evil (if an evil at all for my bed remained dry, and a wet +bed is the worst result of a shower) as it rendered walking cool and +pleasant. It cleared up again, and I rode the last half mile. The +cleanest and best bungalow here I have been in since I left Ghuri. The +view down the valley is extremely pretty, hills rising one above the +other, but shut in on all other sides by high mountains. Gingle, which +is only one or two huts, stands on a small plateau a quarter of a mile +long by one hundred and fifty yards wide, fifty feet above the Jhelum. +The ground is laid out in paddy fields irrigated by a stream of the +coolest and purest water. It is a great satisfaction to be able to drink +water freely without fear. In the plains of India the water is so +contaminated as to be almost poisonous, and I do not think that previous +to this march I had drank a gallon of it since I landed in Calcutta.</p> + + +<p>JULY 16th.—Left Gingle with the earliest streak of dawn for Baramula, +an eighteen mile march. Road very much more level, never ascending high +above the river whose erratic course we continued to follow. Passed +through groves of hazel overrun by wild vines, but both grapes and nuts +as yet green. The plateaus become gradually larger and almost +continuous, and the hills separated and diminished in size, those on the +right being covered with the lank deodar, while those on the left +possessed only a bright green mantle of grass, far away in front they +altogether ended, and the open sky above the valley was alone visible. +And now an unusual occurrence presented itself. We were following the +stream upwards towards its source, yet at every mile it increased in +width and became more placid, till at length its surface was unbroken, +and it assumed the form of a magnificent river, wider than the Thames at +Richmond. The hills continued provokingly to overlap one another as +though anxious to shut in and hide the happy valley from sight. But at +length I discerned a far distant white cloud which I guessed betokened +the summit of a mountain, and a few yards further revealed a faint +glistening opaque line which the inexperienced eye would have certainly +taken for a portion of the cloud, but which could not be mistaken by one +who had before seen the snows. About half a mile from Buramula we +obtain the first view of the Vale of Kashmir, but not an extensive one, +as it is obstructed on either side by low hills. However, what is seen +is very pretty. A large level plain traversed by a broad smooth river +which has now lost its tortuous zig-zag course and bounded by the +everlasting snows covering the main backbone of the Himalayas. At the +head of the valley stands the quaint looking town of Baramula surrounded +by hills on all sides but one, embowered in trees and intersected by the +Jhelum, across which there is a good wooden bridge. The houses have +mostly an upper story, and are built of wood with gabled roofs. The +streets are narrow and roughly paved, and I regret to say are not more +pleasant to the nostrils than are those of other Indian towns. The +bridge built of deodar wood, beams of which are driven into the bed of +the river, and then others laid horizontally upon them, each row at +right angles to and projecting beyond the layer beneath, till a +sufficient height has been reached, six of these and two stone piers +form the buttresses of the bridge and a broad pathway of planks connects +them. The march was a fatiguing one on account of its length, and I used +the dandy freely. I shall however discard it altogether for the future. +I went to the Barahduree but found it occupied by a man whose name I was +told was "——," had been there five days. His Coolies had taken +possession of all the rooms, and though I was very angry and inclined to +turn them out, I thought my tent would be preferable to a room just +vacated by the uncleanly native, so I went to an orchard close by, +surrounded by a row of fine poplars, and patiently awaited the arrival +of my baggage which was a long time coming. The gate was guarded by the +Maharajah's sepoys who endeavoured to prevent my entrance. The Thikadar +told me he had no authority for this, but had done it "Zubbur-dustee." +They also say that the occupant of the Barahduree has just come from +England. He is a being shrouded in mystery, and I shall endeavour to +unravel it. My first step will be to report the occurrence to the +officials at S—— when I get there. I took a swim in the Jhelum, whose +course I have now followed for eighty-four crooked miles, and on whose +bosom I shall to-morrow continue my journey.</p> + + +<p>JULY 17th.—By boat up the river, the day so bright, the view so +glorious, the breeze so balmy and delicious, and the motion so gentle +and pleasant, that lying on my bed I devote myself to lazy listlessness, +to a perfect sense of the "dolce far niente" and can hardly prevail on +myself to disturb my tranquillity by writing these few notes. The +contrast to my thirteen heavy marches is so great that I am content to +remain for the present without thought or action, enjoying absolute +rest. Evening—We halt at Sopoor, and now let me endeavour to continue +the diary. Got up at seven this morning and sent for a boat, one of the +larger kind about thirty feet long, and six feet broad in the middle, +the centre portion covered with an awning made of grass matting. The +crew consisting of an entire family, from the elderly parents to quite +young children—9 in all. I was towed up the still widening river by all +of them in turns, one wee girl not three feet high being most energetic, +though I should think of little real service. Boat flat bottomed, and +alike at both ends, they use paddles instead of oars. But the scene! I +am unable now to do justice to it, so I will only give the outlines to +be elaborated hereafter. Splendid river—verdant plain covered with many +varieties of trees, poplar and chenar or tulip tree the most +conspicuous, extending as far as the eye can reach and enclosed by lofty +snow capped mountains, on which rest the clouds of heaven. Bright blue +King-fishers darting like flashes of light or hovering hawk-like before +the plunge after fish and the many hued dragon flies upon the water +weeds. Among the several varieties of the weeds, I noticed a great +quantity of "Anacharis." Got fresh mutton and apple-pie for dinner. +Swarms of very minute flies came to the candle dancing their dance of +death. Many thousands were destroyed, and their bodies darkened the +board which serves me for a table. Sopoor like Baramula, river bridged, +and grass growing on the roofs of the houses.</p> + + +<p>JULY 18th.—In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was +awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended +to ascend, and get a <i>coup d'oeil</i> of the valley. Instead of being on a +river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the +largest in Kashmir. Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half +way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not +mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of +the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great +portion of the view. Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I +shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which +rise very near the water. We are thirty miles from Baramula. The lake is +in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes +it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a +curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft +delicately flavoured kernel—heart-shaped, as big as a filbert. +Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their +crimson feast. Alsoo—a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains. +Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water.</p> + + +<p>JULY 19th, Sunday.—On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left +my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and +only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only +four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work. +For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above +Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with +butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would +"keep master cool." As we rose—the vale spread out magnificently +beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under +the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain. +Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks +covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its +surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well +rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main +valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains, +spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its +many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air +laden with the perfume of many flowers. My Bheisties even exclaimed +"bahut ach chtu." I gazed entranced. The descent was long but a much +better path. Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were +as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a +small yellow plum which was very nice. Arrived at Lalpore the principal +village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very +common) covered with its nuts. This valley abounds with bears, I was +certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to +the ascent being less steep and the path shady. Saw a magnificent +butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but +like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at +the very moment I thought I had secured it. Got a fine one of a commoner +sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured.</p> + + +<p>JULY 20th.—I halt at Salpore, awaiting the arrival of my Sirdar dandy +coolie, an intelligent, useful, Kashmiree man, whom I engaged to +continue with me as a servant at Baramula, and gave him four days leave +to visit his home, arranging that he should rejoin me here. I lie under +the shade of the wide spreading walnut trees, inhaling the fragrant +breeze, and enjoying perfect quietude and repose. All is so grand and +peaceful, that my heart swells with holy thoughts of praise and +gratitude to the Almighty Creator, and while gazing on one of the +fairest portions of his great work I find myself unconsciously repeating +the glorious psalm "O come let us sing unto the Lord." It would indeed +be a hard heart and a dull spirit that did not rejoice in the scene, and +acknowledge the power and magnificence of its maker. I see around me +this garden of Kashmir where every tree bears fruit for the use of man, +and every shrub, bright flowers for his enjoyment. Enclosed and guarded +by "the strength of the hills" (a noble sentence which never never +before so forcibly impressed me) and covered by the purest of blue +skies. All nature seems to say to me "To-day if ye hear his voice, +harden not your hearts," and surely the "still small voice" is speaking, +and can be heard by those who will heed it, and have the heart to feel +and the soul to rejoice in the strength of their salvation. The memory +of the beautiful duett in "Haydn's Creation," when newly made Adam and +Eve unite in praising God and extolling his wonderful works comes +freshly before me. Now, something akin to this must have crossed the +mental vision of the grand old Maestro when he wrote; and its calm +glorious music well accords with my present state of mind.</p> + + +<p>JULY 21st.—A pleasant stroll of ten miles before breakfast to +Koomerial along the level valley, through shady groves of apple, pear, +green-gage, peach, and mulberry trees, and forests of cherry trees +drooping with the weight of their golden blushing fruit. I have not seen +any vines in the Solab. Koomerial is a very small place, and I had a +little difficulty in getting supplies. I ought to have gone three miles +further to a large village; but I'll go there to-morrow, and then return +to Alsoo in two marches. A native came to me with the toothache, begging +assistance, but the tooth required extracting and I could do nothing for +him. Pitched under a walnut tope—the climate delicious, like a warm +English summer, but it is rather hot in my small tent in the middle of +the day; so I have my Charpoy put outside in the shade and lie there +smoking my pipe and thinking. I have spoken of the beauties and +pleasures of the Solab, but I must not omit mention of its annoyances, +flies and mosquitoes, by day the flies abound and cause much irritation +to any exposed part of the body. I do hate tame flies, flies that though +driven away twenty times elude capture, and will pertinaciously return +to the same spot—say your nose—until one is driven nearly mad with +vexation. At dusk the flies return to roost, and then myriads of +mosquitoes emerge from their hiding places, and make night hideous with +their monotonous hum and blood-thirsty propensities. I do not find +chepatties so bad as I expected, indeed I rather like them, but then my +boy makes them excellently well, using soda in their composition. The +process of manufacture is not pleasant—the flour is made into a paste, +and then flattened and consolidated by being thrown backwards and +forwards from one hand to the other, though one may avoid seeing this, +it is difficult to escape hearing the pit-pat of the soft dough as it +passes rapidly between the Khitmutgars extended, and I fear not always +clean fingers, it is then toasted, brought in hot, and you may eat it +dirt and all. But travellers must not be too particular, and so long as +your food is wholesome, eat and be thankful. But here comes my dinner, +with the chepatties I have just seen prepared, and which sight suggested +the foregoing lines. Chicken for breakfast, chicken for dinner, chicken +yesterday, chicken to-morrow, <i>toujours</i> chicken, sometimes curried, +sometimes roasted, torn asunder and made into soup, stew or cutlets, or +with extended wing forming the elegant spatchcock, it is still chicken; +the greatest and rarest change being that it is occasionally rather +tender. I have had chicken soup and roast fowl for dinner, the chicken +in the soup as stringy as hemp, the fowl as tough as my sandal, and with +so large a liver that I doubted whether the bird had not met with a +violent death. I like fowl's liver, it is my one <i>bonne bouche</i> during +the day, but these startled me, and after straining my teeth on the +carcase, I gladly swallow the soft mouthful. Oh! English readers, you +who have never wandered far from your native shores and who esteem +chickens a luxury to put on your supper table at your festive +gatherings, come to India and surfeit on your dainties, you will see it +calmly collecting its daily food unsuspicious of danger, then comes the +rush and loud clacking as it flies pursued by the ferocious native, +ending with cries of despair and the fluttering and hoarse gurgle of its +death throes, in half an hour Murghi will be placed before you hot and +tempting to the eye but hard as nails to the touch; they are cheap in +this part of the world. I pay one anna (or three halfpence) for a +chicken, or two annas for a full grown fowl.</p> + + +<p>JULY 22nd.—A little march of three miles to Koopwaddie. I am glad I +came here for one or two reasons. In the first place the walk afforded +me a nearer and finer view of the head of the valley, surmounted by its +high and rugged snow peaks; and secondly, I find I can return from here +to Sopoor in two marches instead of going back over the old road. From +Sopoor I shall boat to Alsoo. The range which at Lalpore was on the +further side of the valley has gradually approached the other hills +until now they are only a quarter of a mile apart, and are connected by +short low spurs which I crossed this morning. My road to-morrow will be +behind the first mentioned range, where another portion of the valley +lies. The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous +ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles. The two +portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie +is situated at their junction. The Solab proper is only the eastern arm +which is formed into a <i>cul de sac</i> by the mountains, and in which +Lalpore stands.</p> + + +<p>JULY 23rd.—To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley +rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab. Over a low range of +hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of +the Pohroo river. Not finding a good place on that side I forded the +river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth +green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank. Fine view from the +top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with +the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance. This plain is laid +out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages. +The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are +to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds.</p> + + +<p>JULY 24th.—A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed +and uninteresting road to Sopoor. There were but few trees to afford any +shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you +know it is impossible to sit down. From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles) +by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water +lilies. At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my +breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a +procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something +surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see +what it was. It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no +doubt very holy. A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting +loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not +unpleasing melody. They were praying for rain which is rare in this +country, and which is now required for the crops. My boy returned +bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton. Stopped at +Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed. +Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very +cranky.</p> + + +<p>JULY 25th.—Started early for Alsoo. Found my old boat where I had left +it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep +to, as the boatman is a much more useful fellow than the other man. He +acts as a servant, knows all the places I am going to, including +Ummernath, and has many excellent characters from those who have +employed him. There was such a scene when my intentions were made known +to the other crew, at first with tears and folded hands they +supplicated, but when that proved useless they took to cursing and +gesticulating, which they continued as their boat moved away and so long +as they were within hearing, screaming across the water, making faces, +and shaking their fists aloft; the old man was especially violent, it +was very laughable. My present crew consists of the man I have +mentioned, three good looking young woman, one of whom has the hooping +cough, and a variety of children I have not yet made out the different +relations to each other. There was lightning and some heavy rain last +night (the result no doubt of yesterday's ceremony) and the sky is still +gloomy and overcast. On from Alsoo after Chota Hazree or first breakfast +to Lunka, a small island, which is only fifty yards square, is thickly +covered with pine trees, with trailing grape vines clinging around their +boughs, on it stands an old ruin, and fallen pillars and carved stones +litter the ground. From a distance it looked very lovely, floating as +it were on the bosom of the open waters, but as we neared it an +unpleasant odour became perceptible, rapidly increasing to a horrid +stench. This proceeded from a colony of natives who were in temporary +habitation of the island, and were engaged in catching and drying the +fish with which the lake abounds. I landed however, but was soon forced +to beat a rapid retreat. Such a mass of all kinds of filth crowded in so +small a space, I have never before witnessed. Man is ever the plague +spot of the world, where he is not, all is peace, and beauty, with his +presence comes contamination and discord. Saw many a whistling seal in +one part of the lake. The water soon became contracted into a narrow +channel, with a low bank on either side, after travelling a few miles +more we reached the broad Jhelum above its entrance into the lake. +Remained for the night at Hajun.</p> + + +<p>JULY 26th, Sunday.—Moved on in the morning to Manusbul, a small lake +connected with the river by a canal. This lake is about three miles long +and one mile wide, it is very deep in the middle, and said by the +natives to be unfathomable. In one of the Hindoo Legends we are told a +story of a holy man who spent all his life endeavouring to make a rope +long enough to reach to the bottom, and failing, at length threw +himself in and was never seen again. My boatman to give me an idea of +its depth, dropped in white pebbles which could be seen for a long time +sinking in the clear green water, until they gradually disappeared from +sight. I longed to take a plunge into the cool fluid, and Ungoo +evidently read my wish in my looks, for he proposed that I should gussul +or bathe. The presence of three women however proved too much for my +modesty, and I refrained, although I have no doubt that had I not done +so their feelings would not have been in the least outraged. Very +handsome water lilies (lotus) on the surface of the lake, the flowers +being of a delicate pink colour with a yellow centre, and as large as +the crown of a man's hat. At the further extremity, a high hill rises +from the edge of the water. A stream is artificially conducted along its +face at a height of about fifty feet, and the surplus water escapes in +several pretty little cascades, by the side of one of them grow some +noble chenars. The bottom of the lake around the edges is very uneven, +and covered with a dense growth of mynophillum spicatum, on which +planorbus and other molluces graze and tiny fry pick their invisible +atoms of food. The elegant shape of this plant with its branching and +finely cut leaves, and the inequalities of the ground remind me of the +pine-clad hills in miniature. A brilliant king-fisher took the gunwale +of the boat as the "base of his operations," and I amused myself all the +morning, by watching him catch fish; when one approached the surface he +descended with a splash which I imagined would have driven every fish +far away, emerging quickly and very seldom without a capture, which he +turned head downwards and swallowed alive and whole, then looked round +with a laughable air of self-satisfaction. When the fish was a size too +large to be trifled with, he first polished it off by rapping its head +on the boards. It is now sunset, and that bird is still feeding, and +probably the day will end without deciding whether his appetite or his +capacity is the larger. A native brought me a dish of excellent +apricots and mulberries—the mulberries especially good, and my garden +is celebrated for the best peaches in Kashmir.</p> + + +<p>JULY 27th.—Up the Jhelum again, past Sumbul with its deodar bridge +(similar to the others described with this exception, that the footway +appears to be built in imitation of the roof of a house sloping on +either side from a high central ridge, not the best form of bridge I +have seen, but variety is charming) to the entrance of the Scind river, +where a chenar stands in the middle of the stream, protected by a square +block of masonry. Tradition says this tree never grows. Near it is a +small island over grown with trees. Here we left the Jhelum and pursued +the course of the Scind which soon contracted into a narrow and rapidly +flowing river, its water derived from the snows, being very cold. It was +slow work rowing against the strong current, but we presently emerged +into a great lake entirely covered with high rushes except where a +winding channel was cut for the boats, and here progression was slower +still as the rope had to be abandoned, and the pole called into +requisition, so that it was nearly dark when we reached Ganderbul. +Passed a number of men wading in the water up to their necks, and +spearing the ground with poles armed with a single barbed spike. +Although this seems an insane way of attempting to catch fish, their +boat was well laden with a small species of trout, and I saw several +drawn from the water impaled and wriggling upon the sharp point. +Sreenuggur seen in the distance at the extremity of a mountainous spur, +with the Fort and Soloman's Throne, standing upon two elevated rocks. +Within a few miles of Ganderbul the lake became clear, and presented a +fine expanse of water, but with so many shallows, that our course was +very tortuous. Having travelled twenty miles, we are now only five miles +from Manusbul. Ganderbul stands at the opening of the Scind valley, but +it was too late to take any observations when I arrived; so I must wait +until my return.</p> + + +<p>JULY 28th.—A march of nine miles up the valley to Kungan, taking with +me as before only four coolie loads of baggage; my boatman accompanies +me. Met Scott, of the 88th, three or four miles from Ganderbul, the +first European I have seen since the 12th. This is a narrow and +beautiful valley, down which the Scind river rushes foaming and roaring. +Its waters are icy cold and its colour also seems to partake of its +snowy origin, for it is white, not only with foam, but the water itself +in small quantities is as though it had come out of a milky jug. Grand +hills stand on either side, and up the valley I occasionally got +glimpses of high and rugged snow peaks. Several natives came to me with +different ailments, I gave them rough directions whereby to benefit, but +what they wanted was a gift of medicine (of which I have none.) They +fancy every Englishman is an adept in the art of healing, and that +English physic especially Tyrnhill's Pills, possesses magical powers.</p> + + +<p>JULY 29th.—To Toomoo, six miles, a shorter march than I intended, for +they told me at Kungan that Toomoo was twelve miles distant. However, +when I arrived, the temptation to stop was too strong to be resisted. In +marching one gets very weary about the sixth or seventh mile, but this +passes off, and you can then go on comfortably for almost any distance, +provided you resist the first feelings of fatigue, and do not give way +to it, as I have done to-day. The mountains are now huge towering +masses, rising thousands of feet above the valley; they have lost all +smoothness of outline, and their upper portions are bare and rough, +cragged, and pine clad. Instead of having merely whitened peaks, snow +fields extend down the sides. The scene is one of wild majestic +grandeur. What tremendous agonies in past ages must have been employed +to produce such vast upheavals. One cannot help contemplating with awe +the possibility of the world again becoming violently rent and shaken +to its foundations by the forces which though now comparatively inert, +still exist beneath us and occasionally give sad proof of their +undiminished power. In the present day the slow but continued action of +this subterranean power is in some parts perceptible (as in South +America) and we have no guarantee that it may not suddenly acquire +increased energy, and overwhelm our fairest lands with a run too +terrible to be imagined. Stinging nettles abound here, of the tall sort +that grow so rankly on old earth heaps and in dry ditches. I placed my +hand among them, delighted to be stung again by English friends; the +sensation is so far preferable to mosquito bites. Besides it took me +back to "childhood's happy hours," when with bramble torn breeches and +urticarious shin, I forced the hedges, apple stealing—I have stolen +apples to-day for a tart which is now baking—robbed the trees of them +for they are no man's property. Just above here on the other side of the +valley is a very perfect crater (of course extinct) for there are now no +volcanoes in the Himalayas. Its lips are rugged and serrated like the +teeth of a saw, and form a very perfect circle I cannot tell the depth +of the basin, but on the further side I can see that the edge rises +perpendicularly to a considerable height, and at the bottom of it I just +got a glimpse of a steeply sloping floor. On its exterior are deep +grooves containing strong blocks, which at this distance appear to show +by contrast of colour their igneous origin, but I cannot speak +positively on this point. My Bheistie to whom I gave three days leave to +visit his family, came in saying he had walked one hundred miles. He +does not look any the worse for it.</p> + + +<p>JULY 30th.—Another short march of five miles to Soorapra, a small +village around which stand several enormous hills, half obscured by +clouds, for it is a thoroughly wet day, drizzling rain having fallen +ever since my arrival. It is very cool and pleasant, but I have got up +too far and am now in the rainy region, so to-morrow I shall retrace my +steps, three or four marches would take me over the Himalayas into +Ladâk. This would be an interesting trip, but there still remains much +for me to see in Kashmir, and I have not time to do both. Passed +another, but smaller and less perfect crater. Some natives brought a +young black bear, which they had just caught to show me. It was no +larger than a good-sized dog, but had very long sharp claws; its +expression was anything but ferocious. A dense pine and walnut forest +extends down one of the hills to the verge of the village. I was +strolling in that direction, not a hundred yards from the huts—before +the arrival of my baggage—when two men ran after me and begged me to +come back on account of the number of tigers there. I imagined they +meant leopards, but on making enquiries I find cows are carried away, +which could not be done by leopards. This would be a good ground for the +sportsman, but no Europeans come here as it is off the regular track up +the valley. I crossed the river this morning by a ricketty bridge built +of a couple of firs, on which logs were loosely laid, leaving the main +road which runs along the other or right bank. Just behind my tent a +stream of deliciously cold and transparent water issues from the hill +side; a rough sort of shed is erected over it, and the water is +conducted a short distance in a wooden trough, from the end of which it +falls to the ground. It is the custom in Kashmir to build over the +springs and esteem them holy. No mosquitoes up here, delightful prospect +of a good night's rest.</p> + + +<p>JULY 31st.—Back to Kungan in one march, but did not encamp on the same +ground as before, as I found a better place by the side of the river. I +have been thinking all the morning about my future career, whether I +shall obtain the appointment in the Guards that I have applied for, (my +application has by this time reached England) if not, what will they do +with me when I get home, or shall I remain in the army? These questions +have been running in my head and occasionally a more delicate one +obtruded. Shall I marry, and if so, when and whom, and here, where all +my thoughts are revealed, I must needs confess that now at twenty-nine +years of age, I begin to weary of single blessedness, and long for a +fair, loving, and loveable companion. Now my gentle lady reader, here is +a chance for you, if you are content with honest love without adoration, +faithfulness without romance; for my romantic days have passed. I have +learnt the sober realities of life, and among them the truth of God's +declaration that it is not good for man to be alone. The <i>Saturday +Review</i> in recent articles, "The Girl of the Period, &c.," holds out a +poor prospect for the would be benedict, and I fear there is much truth +in the assertion that the majority of our young women are husband +hunting, that they make matrimony their one great object, and will +condescend to any means whereby to attain the personal independance +given them by that position, that these marriages without love, only +prompted by selfish considerations, are followed by a total neglect of +all wifely duties—nay more, that even maternal care and tenderness have +nearly ceased to exist. It is a sad picture, and sternly drawn. The +well-known power of the paper is put forth in its highest degree, and +withering sarcasm, and bitter contempt accompany its stern reproofs. +Yet there is a final wail of despair at the unlikelihood of any change +for good being effected. This evil like most others is of our own +making. We men no longer marry while young, but when middle-aged or with +grey hairs beginning to show, a man desires a wife, he will most likely +choose one five and twenty years his junior. The girl often marry thus +because she cannot get a husband of her own age, and a very few years +lost will doom her to perpetual spinsterhood. It is necessarily a +marriage without love, a lucky one if there be respect. Girls have +learnt that it is useless to bestow their affections where nature would +have them, and and it is scarcely a matter for surprise that they +should in consequence endeavour to repress them altogether. Moral for my +own use. Marry while I am young, or not at all.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 1st.—To Wangut nine miles rough and hilly walking. I lost the +path once, and had a long scramble before I regained it. Though not a +pleasant march the scenery is very fine and picturesque. Wangut lies up +a short and contracted valley, an offshoot of the Scind which is a much +larger one, and the mountains around it are very grand especially at the +head of the valley, I put up large coveys of grey partridge on the road. +I have come here for the purpose of visiting some mines two miles +further on, and I intend to halt to-morrow and walk to see them. There +is a great row going on while I write this, the natives appear unwilling +to furnish supplies (milk, eggs, &c.,) and my boatman who has +accompanied me is applying his stick freely by way of persuasion. There +is of course a Babel of tongues and I sit within a few yards, quietly +ignoring the proceeding, though if necessary, I shall get up and add +some lusty whacks as my share of the argument. A mountain torrent—a +tributary of the Scind runs down the valley with the usual noise and +hurly burly. A travelling native carpenter is here, and all the village +are bringing their ploughs to be mended, he is very clever with his +hoe-shaped hatchet fashioning the hard walnut wood so correctly with it, +that the chisel is hardly necessary for the few finishing touches. I +have seen him make some wooden ladles very rapidly, and he has provided +me with a new set of tent pegs and mallet and a wooden roller, by means +of which I hope to avoid the digital process in the manufacture of my +chepatties.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 2nd, Sunday.—Sitting having my feet washed by a servant +(delightful sensation) after my return from the ruin of Rajdainbul and +Nagbul. I meditate on the mutability of all things human. I have taken a +walk before breakfast this Sabbath morning to witness the overthrow of +former magnificence and the destruction of man's crafty handiwork. These +two temples erected many long years ago in honour of a Hindoo Deity +named Naranay, now stand desolate piles in the dense jungle. Fallen +stones cover the ground and great trees grow from the interstices of +those that still hold together and retain a semblance of their original +shape. Confusion reigns supreme and the place that was once the scene of +mistaken worship, is now only the haunt of the wild beast and deadly +reptile. The thoughts which such a sight suggest, have been the theme of +many a moralist, but the great lesson it teaches cannot lose any of its +importance by repetition. Yet a consideration of the littleness of man +and the utter vanity of his proudest works is, I fear, distasteful to +most of us; we cannot bear to be forced to admit our own insignificance. +We go to church and cry "what is man that Thou art mindful of him," but +the words are but empty sounds. Our preachers may tell us that life is +but a shadow, but they speak to unwilling and heedless ears, and we go +on ignoring the fact, crying peace, and stifling our conscience by a +form of religion without godliness. We are arrogant, high-minded, puffed +up in our own conceit, and though there are many that would wish to be +considered holy, how few there are that are humble men of heart, and +time continues to repeat the old, old story, filling our grave-yards, +destroying our works; creation alone remaining stable, waiting for the +end. These ruins are small in size, and their architecture rude, though +the individual blocks are certainly large and well though not +elaborately carved. But they produce a strange impression of awe by the +dreary solitude and wildness of their position which is perhaps peculiar +to themselves, although they lack both the fairy elegance of Netley +Abbey, and the massive grandeur of a Pevensey Castle. The men who +accompanied me advanced very cautiously through the thick underwood, +beating with their sticks in order to drive away the Iguana Lizards, +which they call the "bis cobra" and hold in deadly fear, believing its +bite to be most surely fatal. This belief is universal among the natives +of India, but there is no proof of its truth, and I need hardly say that +the dental arrangement of Bactrachian reptiles is incompatible with the +possession of poisonous qualities. But though science will not admit it, +it is strange that the idea is so widely spread, especially as the +natives do not fear any other species of lizard, while they believe that +every snake is armed with the fatal fang.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 3rd.—Heavy rain prevented my departure from Wangut, at the usual +early hour, but about 9 o'clock it cleared up, and I marched on Arric +eight miles distant down a path on the right bank of the river, (I +ascended the valley on the other side.) The rain has made it very +slippery, and it was a fatiguing walk the road not being good, and +occasionally dangerous; one part fairly beat me, I was expected to pass +round a smooth rock by means of several ledges one inch wide and four or +five long, cut on its surface. The precipice below was deep, and when I +had taken one step, and found myself hanging over it; I determined to go +back and try another way. The other way is bad enough, but all I object +to is having my safety depending upon a single foothold. I like to have +at least one chance of recovering myself if I slip. My walnut tree +to-day is covered with mistletoe and my mind is directed to Christmas +time, and all its (to us) sad associations. Three Christmases have I +spent away from England, and a fourth is now approaching, one of them on +the ocean, and two in the tented field, the next will I fancy also find +me under canvass, but I trust on my way homewards. Westward Ho! is my +cry; let the gorgeous East with its money bags, its luxuries, and its +many hours of idleness, remain for those who are content to exchange +home-ties and the enjoyment of life for dreary exile and too often +untimely death, who will sell their minds and bodies for the price of +rupees.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 4th.—Marched back to Ganderbul, nine miles. Ganderbul is a very +small place, and the only object of interest I noticed, was a very old +bridge built of rough stones, standing now upon dry land, for the Scind +has left its former channel and runs one hundred yards to to the south +of it, three of the arches remain entire and connected, and at least +twelve others are either decayed or destroyed. This bridge is evidently +of very ancient date. On emerging from the Scind valley, I got a better +view of the vale than I have before had. It was a clear but cloudy +morning—one of those grey days when rays abound, and photographic +efforts are most successful—and every distant object was seen with +great distinctness. The snowy Pin Punjaul range, in its southern +boundary looked magnificent, rising abruptly from the level and +beautiful plain. On board the boat again, I continued the journey +towards Srenuggur. We had not been long afloat before a sudden squall +came down from the hills and blew the roof of the boat off; it took a +long time to repair the mischief, but fortunately all the matting was +blown on to the bank, it was eventually replaced and we proceeded +onwards in a tolerably direct line to the capital, ten miles distant. +But near sunset the wind increased again, and compelled us to take +refuge in a sheltered nook within a mile or two of Srenuggur, the fort +standing above us on the summit of a hill—imposing from its apparently +impregnable position—and there we remained all night.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 5th.—Starting early, I soon arrived at the outskirts of the +town, and the boat entered a canal with houses on both sides. There was +some delay at a lock and great excitement in pushing over the fall +caused by the rash of the water. Passed through the city which is a +large one, and encamped under chenars on the banks of the canal on the +other side. The Baboo-Mohu Chundee, an officer appointed by the +Maharajah to attend to the many and varying wants of European +visitors—called upon me and afterwards sent "russud" or a present from +the Maharajah consisting of tea, sugar, flour, butter, rice, salt, +spice, vegetables, a chicken, and a live sheep. Some cloth merchants +also came and I was led into extravagance in purchasing some of their +goods. In the afternoon I got a small boat, a miniature of the larger +one, propelled by six men with paddles. They took me along very quickly, +and I went down the canal which opens into the Jhelum—the main +thoroughfare of Suenaggur opposite to the palace and the adjoining +temple, whose dome is covered with plates of pure gold. It is a very +strange sight, the broad river covered with boats, and lined by houses +built in the curious Kashmirian style. Seven fine bridges cross it, and +on two of them stand rows of shops like our Old London Bridge. I first +went to the Post-office and got a satisfactory communication from our +Paymaster, and also a letter from Bill, giving me the sad tidings of +poor Tyrwhitt's death, which took place at Murree a fortnight after my +departure. It is a selfish consideration, but I cannot help feeling +grateful that he was prevented by an attack of ague from accompanying +me, as he intended. I then went to Sumnad Sha's, the great shawl +merchant, and turned some of the Paymaster's paper into silver currency. +He showed me his stock, and I wished that I possessed the means of +purchasing his goods. But even here a good shawl costs thirty or forty +pounds, very magnificent they are, but I need not describe that which +every English lady knows and longs for, if she has not it. Hewson, the +Paymaster at Chinsurah, is encamped within one hundred yards of me. +Passing in his boat he recognised me, and we went and had a swim and +talked over old times at the Depôt.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 6th.—Bought some tackle and went fishing, but the hooks were +rotten and the fish broke several. I only succeeded in landing one trout +of nearly two pounds weight. The spoon bait is a favourite one here. +Bought a variety of stones and pebbles. Ladûk, Yarkund, Opals, Garnets, +&c., for making brooches, bracelets, and studs. I was a long while +making the selection and a long while bargaining, but I seem to have got +them cheap; at all events for less money than Hewson has paid for his. +This, and fishing, occupied the whole day—which was consequently an +uneventful one. In the evening I borrowed writing materials from Hewson, +and wrote a letter to Bell.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 7th.—Went out spearing fish, but found it difficult in +consequence of the allowance necessary for the refraction of the water +and the movement of the fish. There is a great temptation to strike in +an apparently direct line with the fish, which I need hardly say, even +if the fish be stationary does not go near it. I only succeeded in +piercing two. But I afterwards went out with a spoon and very soon +landed a couple of trout of two and four pounds weight. I have found out +who was at Baramula —— travelling quietly like a private gentleman, +still, notwithstanding the paucity of his retinue, the unmistakeable +stamp of nobility about him made it plain that he was more than he +appeared to be, obtaining for him the attention which he had wished to +ignore. As a contrast to him we have here X——, Y——, and Z——, +noticeable like many other Englishmen, when travelling in foreign +countries for the prodigality of their expenditure, one of whom got a +thrashing the other day from ——. Rather a disreputable affair for him, +if all I hear be true. I dare say many a poor native wishes that a small +portion of the money these three men waste was given to them instead.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 8th.—I have done nothing to-day except go to Sumnad Shas for +some more money, as I intend to leave Sreenugger to-morrow for the +eastern part of Kashmir. There are two reasons for my idleness; in the +first place Hewson gave me some books he had done with, and I got +interested in James' "Heidelberg" and was reading it all this morning; +and secondly, Hewson left this afternoon and sat a long time with me +before his departure. To lengthen my notes for the day I ought to write +a sermon, or secular discourse, (as I have done before) but I don't feel +inclined to do so. This diary only gets my thoughts when they arise +spontaneously and require no further labour than the mere putting of +them into words. To-day my mind is a blank, and I am not going to search +in hidden recesses for thoughts that may possibly be secreted there. +Perhaps after dinner something may occur to me worth writing about.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 9th, Sunday.—On again by the big boat up the Jhelum stopping at +Pampur for two hours fishing under the bridge (the reputed haunt of +large fish) but without success, so continued the journey gliding slowly +along the beautiful river until dark, when the boat was run ashore and +secured. So it has been an uneventful day with no new scenery to +describe and no musings to record.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 10th.—Another day passed on the river. From early dawn till dusk +we continued towing against the stream, and then halted for the night at +Kitheryteen (I spell the word from my boatman's pronunciation of it) a +small village on the right bank.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 11th.—Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara, +where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar +to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty +from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every +pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway, +between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains. +Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be +large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half +its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains +which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached +Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the +first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of +only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small +streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the +hills.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 12th.—Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the +camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned +from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them +being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600 +feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity. +In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and +these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave, +but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too +cold up there. At Burven is a very holy spring. Two tanks are formed +where the water escapes from the ground, and these tanks swarm with tame +fish, some of them of large size. It was a great sight feeding them. +They all rushed to the place struggling and fighting for the food. The +bright green water was black with them, and a space yards wide and long, +and several feet thick, was occupied by a block of fish packed as +closely as if they were pickled herrings. These fish are also very +sacred, and to catch them is prohibited. Soon after leaving Kunbul I +passed through Islamabad, a large town of which I may have more to say +hereafter. There are two other men encamped here with me, but they don't +seem very sociable, and I don't care much for the society of strangers; +we have exchanged "good mornings" and that is all, and now sit staring +at each other at a distance of twenty yards. How different it would have +been if we were Frenchmen instead of cold-blooded Englishmen. After dark +the fakirs had a "tomasha." Singing, bell ringing, tambourine-beating, +and the blowing of discordant horns all at the same time, constituted a +delightful music—to them at least—and was continued for hours, +interrupted by shouting and yelling, and with this din going on I now +hope to sleep.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 13th.—Marched back to Islamabad, seven miles, by another road, +as I first visited the ruins of Martund, a temple built (so the legend +goes) ages ago by "gin men" or demons of gigantic stature. These are +really grand ruins, whether position, site, or architecture be +considered. They stand on an open plain, on the summit of a ridge, from +which is a fine view of the surrounding mountains, which are much higher +than in the western part of Kashmir. In the centre is a large block, +containing several rooms, the huge stones of which it is built being +elaborately carved. There are many niches containing figures, but the +defacing hand of time has sadly marred them. On two sides of this +building and only a few feet distant from it rise a couple of wings, and +the whole is enclosed by a stone screen, perforated by trefoil arches, +and having on its inner side a row of fluted columns. In the middle of +the south side of the screens is the main entrance, the pillars of which +are very tall. Vigne, classes these ruins among the finest in the world, +and perhaps he is right. At Islamabad there are several bungalows +provided for visitors, and I went into one of them, having first +cleared it of the "fakirs"—who are here too. These bungalows stand by +tanks in which are tame fish, as at Burven. A spring issues from the +hill side, just above them. Two men of the 7th Hussars, Walker and +Verschoyle, occupied another, and I breakfasted with them. Adjoining the +tanks is a small pleasure garden, with some buildings which are +inhabited by the Maharajah when he visits Islamabad. The place reminds +me more of a tea garden in the New Road, than the resort of Royalty. The +water from the tanks escapes under the front bungalow forming a pretty +cascade. Dined and passed the evening with the other fellows.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 14th.—To Atchebul, six miles. This is a charming spot. It is a +pavilion and garden built—if my memory serves me—by the Emperor Shah +Jehan, for his wife; at its upper end rises a hill covered with small +deodars and other trees, and from the foot of this hill four springs +gush forth from crevices in the rock. The volume of water is very large, +and it is conveyed into three tanks at different levels. These tanks are +connected by broad canals lined with stone, and at the extremity of each +canal is a fine waterfall. There are also two lateral canals which run +through the whole length of the gardens, from the boundary of which the +water escapes in three cascades, the centre one from the tanks being +the largest. In the middle tank are twenty-five fountains, which were +turned on for my benefit; only seventeen of them play, and the best jets +are not more than six feet high. In the centre of this tank stands a +pavilion which I now inhabit. Its walls are of wooden trellis work, and +the ceiling is divided into panels on which are painted in many colours +the everlasting shawl pattern; it looks as though the floor-cloth had +been placed on the ceiling by mistake. Along the foot of the hill is a +ruined terrace built of bricks, with arches and alcoves crumbling to +pieces. There is also an arch over the canal, between the second and +third tanks. The whole garden was originally laid out in several +terraces faced with masonry, and having wide flights of stone steps from +one to the other; but all is now much decayed, and the garden itself is +quite uncultivated, except a small portion, and is but a wilderness of +fruit trees and fine chenars. On the left of it is the old Human or +bath, a series of domed and arched rooms containing baths and marble +seats. The interior is in a fair state of preservation, and the various +pipes which conveyed the water to it still exist. The whole ground is +enclosed by a wall, and if it was properly looked after, might be +converted into a very pleasant retreat. In the afternoon Walker and +Verschoyle, rode over from Islamabad and sat some time with me, after a +few hours five other pipes began to squirt—rendered patulous I suppose +by the pressure of the water—so that three only now remain occluded. I +had a great loss last night; the dogs broke open the basket containing +my provisions, and carried away half a large sized cake, and a hump of +beef that had been cooked but was uncut.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 15th.—Marched to Nowboog, fifteen miles, this long march was +quite unexpected as Ince in his book puts it down eight miles. It was up +hill nearly all the way—this combined with the sun's heat—for I did +not start so early as I would have done if I had known the distance—and +the vexation of having to go on, long after I considered the march +ought to have been finished, made it very fatiguing. Nowboog is situated +in a small and pretty valley separated by hills from the rest of +Kashmir. I intend to halt here to-morrow, so will reserve further +description until I feel fresh again. It was one or two o'clock before I +arrived, and I have worn a hole in my left heel which will, I fear, +render the next marches painful. Umjoo—the boatman—is now shampooing +my legs and feet. This process consists of violent squeezes and pinches +which make me inclined to cry out, but I am bearing it bravely without +flinching and endeavouring to look happy, and to persuade myself that it +is pleasant—now my toes are being pulled with a strength fit to tear +them off. Oh! ——. There's a cry on paper. He does not hear that, and +it is some sort of relief.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 16th, Sunday.—The valley of Nowboog is small but very +picturesque. The surrounding hills are comparatively low, and are +covered with pasture on the open places, while the deodar and many other +trees occupy the ravines and gullies. The large amount of grass and the +grouping of the trees give it a park-like appearance, and the gentle +slopes of the verdant mountains remove all wildness from the scene. It +is a pleasant spot to halt at. A little nook which while it charms the +eye, only suggests peaceful laziness. My coolies sit at a short +distance, singing through their noses Kashmirian songs. There is much +more melody in their music than in that of their brethren of Hindoostan. +Indeed some of the tunes admit of being written, and I have copied a few +of the more rythmical, as they sang them. The principal objection to +them is that they are rather too short to bear repetition for half an +hour as is the custom, there is another music going on—a music that +cannot be written and will be difficult to describe—I mean the song of +the "Cicada Stridulantia" in walnut trees above me. This insect—the +balm cricket—is in appearance a burlesque, just such a house fly as you +might imagine would be introduced in a pantomime; and its cry is as +loud and incessant as it is peculiar. To describe it, fancy to begin +with a number of strange chirps, and that every few seconds, one of +those cogged wheels and spring toys that you buy at fairs to delude +people into the belief that their coats are being torn—is passed +rapidly down the back, with occasionally momentary interruption in the +middle of its course, while between each scratch you hear a mew of a +distant cat—another cat purring loudly all the time, and any number of +grasshoppers chirping to conclude with a running down of the most +impetuous and noisy alarum, and then silence—a silence almost painful +by contrast—until it begins again. Such is the song of the Cicada in +the Himalayan forests. I wonder every Sunday if they miss me at +Peshawur; for I was organist to the church before I left, and I doubt if +there is anybody to take my place. I wish I had the instrument here now +to peal forth to the hills and the wondering Kashmirians Handel's +sublime "Hallelujah Chorus" or "The Marvellous Works" of Haydn. What can +be more inspiring than the grand old church music we possess, bequeathed +to us by composers of immortal memory. Though much opposed to the +present Ritualistic tendencies I do delight in a musical service. It +seems to elevate the mind and give a greater depth to our devotion. Go +into any of our cathedrals and hear the solemn tones of the Liturgy +echoing through the vaulted roof, and your heart must needs join in the +supplication, "And when the glorious burst of music calls to praise and +rejoicing, will not your own soul fly heavenward with the sound and find +unaccustomed fervency in its thanksgivings." There is perhaps one thing +necessary, and that is, that you should know the music you hear, +otherwise the first admiration of its beauty may eclipse all other +considerations. But if you have studied it, if it is as familiar to you +as it ought to be, and is intimately connected in your mind with the +words to which it is set, you will understand its spirit, and see that +however beautiful it may be it is only the means whereby higher thoughts +and nobler feelings are sought to be expressed. I bought here a very +fine pair of Antlers of the "Bara sing"—a large deer found on these +hills.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 17th.—To Kookur Nag, twelve miles. I am now convinced I came the +wrong road from Atchibul to Nowboog, as I had to march back over a great +portion of it this morning; however, with the exception of a mile or +two, it was all down hill, and as I knew when I started that I had +twelve miles to go, I was not tired. Stopped at the village on the way +where there are iron works, and saw them smelting the ore which is +obtained from the neighbouring mountains, this ore is a yellow powder, +and appears to be almost pure oxide. Their method of working is very +rude; a small furnace, such as a blacksmith uses at home, supplied with +a pair of leather bellows constitutes the whole of the foundry, and is +of course, only capable of smelting a very small quantity of ore at a +time. Kookur Nag is the name of some springs about two miles from the +village I have encamped at, and I walked over this afternoon to see +them. It was scarcely worth the trouble. There are a great number of +them close together and they issue from the ground, as usual, at the +foot of a prettily wooded hill. The water is very pure and cold, and of +sufficient quantity to form immediately a large and rapid stream. This +place lies near the mouth of a wide gorge or valley which leads right up +to the snows, and down which there must have been at one time, either a +mighty rush of water or a vast glacier, as the ground is thickly strewn +with huge boulders. The stratification of one mountain against which it +is evident the flood impinged—is very clearly and beautifully shown.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 18th.—To Vernag, ten miles, crossing a range of hills, the +descent being the steepest I have experienced. From the top of the range +there was a fine view of the two valleys of Kookur Nag and Vernag. They +are very similar and down the middle of each is a layer of loose rounded +stones. The springs of Vernag occupy the same position in the valley as +those of Kookur Nag do in the other, but around them is a good sized +village, and their point of exit has been converted into a large and +very deep octagonal tank, which is perfectly crowded with sacred fish. +Surrounding the tank is a series of arches, and on the side from which +the stream escapes is a bungalow for the use of visitors. Six days ago a +Hindoo was drowned here, and his body has not been recovered—so deep is +the water, it is probable that ere this the fish have removed all but +his bones, one hundred yards below the tank is another spring, which is +the finest I believe in Kashmir. It comes straight up on level ground, +and forms a mound of water eighteen inches high, and more than a foot in +diameter. The morning cloudy and very gloomy on account of the eclipse +of the sun of which I saw nothing. This is my birthday and my thoughts +have been running over my past life and speculating upon the future +before me. "But fear not dear reader!" I will not bore you with all my +musings over those twenty-nine unfruitful, if not absolutely mis-spent +evil years, or show you how my "talent" lies carefully folded up and +hidden away, in order that I may have it to return to its "owner". "Oh! +fool, fool that I am." Knowing better things and with a half a lifetime +gone, "I find myself still plodding along the old road paved with good +intentions." The springs of grace indeed surround me, but I am in the +shallows and the water is muddy. The very "Tree of Life" is by my side, +but it is a dwarfed and stunted shrub, whose shoots wither before they +put forth leaves. When will this change? Will my resolutions ever become +deeds? "Will grace abound: or will faith ever give such impetus to my +"Tree of Life," that it may grow up into heaven?" I put to myself the +question that was asked Ezekiel. "Can these dry bones live," and have no +other answer than his to make. These are some of my birthday thoughts. +Pray, forgive, excuse me if I have wearied you.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 19th.—Back to Atchibul, twelve miles, the road for the most part +level, but there was one mile of very hard work, over the ridge I +crossed yesterday. I approached Atchibul from the hill I mentioned as +standing at the head of the garden, and from the top of it a very pretty +view of the place is obtained. I found the pavilion unoccupied, and +again took possession of it, set the fountains playing, and imagined +myself the Great Mogul. Just out of Vernag, I caught a small black and +yellow bird, which my boatman calls a "bulbul" (though I think he is +wrong in the name) and says it sings very well. I have had a cage made +for it, and it is now feeding at my side, and is apparently very happy. +I'll try and take it to England. I believe it is only one of the shrike +family, but it is too young to identify at present. However, it is my +fancy to keep it, so why should I not. The old gardener here is very +attentive, constantly bringing me fruit. Shall I do him injustice, by +saying that he probably has expectation of a reward? I think not indeed, +is it not the same expectation or its allied motive, the desire to +escape punishment, which prompts the actions of all of us? We do good, I +fear, more for the sake of the promised recompense, than for any love +of the thing itself. Light rain has fallen all day.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 20th.—I halt at Atchibul. I have now completed my wanderings in +Kashmir, and have seen all I intended except one portion, which I shall +visit on my road home. My next move will be to ——, but as I do not +care to spend more than seven or eight days there, I am in no hurry to +get back. My bird died in the night, and by its death has put an end to +a rather violent controversy between my Bheistie and boatman. The +boatman stoutly maintained his opinion of its value and the Bheistie +with a more correct appreciation, and while explaining to me that it +was a jungle bird and would never sing, appeared to look upon my conduct +with a mixture of compassion and disgust, and then they quarrelled over +it. Was my fancy a foolish one? Some men will spend years in the pursuit +and classification of butterflies, while others go into ecstasy over a +farthing of the reign of Queen Anne. My common jungle bird was a pretty +one, and if I had got it home and put it in a gilt cage, it would surely +have possessed some value for its antecedents, even if it had proved as +mute as a fish, or as discordant as a Hindoo festival.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 21st.—Marched back to Kunbul, seven miles, and took up my +quarters again on board the boat, fifteen or twenty other boats are +here, a good many visitors having recently arrived in this part of +Kashmir. I remained at Kunbul all day waiting for the completion of a +pair of chuplus which I ordered of a shoemaker ten days ago. I have +occupied the time by reading Marryat's "Newton Forster" (one of Hewson's +gifts) and I find that when I read I can't write, so that must be my +excuse for the shortness of my notes. My head is full of ships, sea +fights, and love making to the exclusion of everything else. I heard +you—you said it was a good job, as it prevented me writing more +nonsense.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 22nd.—Slowly drifting all day down the stream towards +Sreenuggur. Past Bijbehara with its fine bridge, stopping there a short +time to procure milk and eggs for breakfast. Past Awuntipoor—the former +capital—but now only a very small village, where stands on the rivers +bank the ruins of two ancient Hindoo temples, square blocks, built +indeed of enormous stones, but without sufficient architectural +embellishment to require a closer inspection than I obtained from the +boat. Another of those charming lazy days on the water, nothing to think +about, but the time for meals, nothing to do, but to eat them when +prepared. The eastern part of Kashmir is covered with high isolated +mounds called Kuraywahs, composed of Alluvium, presenting perfectly +flat summits and precipitous sides. The top of these was doubtless the +original bed of the lake at the time when the whole valley was +submerged, and the present channels between them (though now dry land) +were cut by the rush of the water, when the Jhelum burst through the +opening at Baramula and drained the valley. This rush then is shown to +have been impetuous (and the high banks of the river also bear evidence +to it) but it seems to me that the mere breaking through of the stream +sixty or seventy miles away is not enough to account for it. No doubt +that occurrence was attended, I may say produced by violent +subterranean phenomena; and I imagine that this portion of the +vale—which is much higher than the western half—then underwent a +sudden upheaval, the result of which if only a few feet would be to +throw its waters with terrific force into the lower portion and afford +an easy explanation of the formation of both the Kuraqwahs and the +Jhelum. I noticed in my course up the Jhelum, that it appeared to have +originally consisted of a chain of small lakes, this would be the the +natural effect of such a cause as I have supposed. The bulk of water, at +first, would only have been sufficient to produce a few of them, perhaps +only the large one between Gingle and Baramula. But as its quantity and +measure continually increased by the flow from the higher level so +would lake after lake have been formed among the crowded hills until the +plains were reached. Then the drainage of these small lakes would follow +as a matter of course, and the channel of the river be reduced to a size +proportionate to its constant supply. Dear reader, you are very +difficult to please. My descriptions you call slow, my imaginings +frivolous, science dry. Jokes are feeble and personalities tedious +morality is stale, religion is cant. What, how can I write? You have had +a taste of all and if you are not content the fault is—well, let me be +on the safe side—either yours or mine.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 23rd, Sunday.—We continued to progress last night by moonlight +long after the sun had set, and started again very early this morning, +so that the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Soloman's Throne) and Fort are now +visible, and I expect to reach Sreenuggur before noon. It is faster work +floating down the current than towing against it. At Sreenuggur I found +several letters waiting for me, and amongst them a large "Official," +which I tore open with eager haste; thinking it might be a reply to my +application to be sent home. It was ——. Well, you will never guess—an +urgent enquiry as to what language I could speak and write fluently +beside English. I have answered this question some half dozen times +since I have been in the service, but they never get tired of asking it. +The date of my arrival in India is another favourite and constantly +recurring enquiry, and this might lead me to give you a dissertation +upon the theory and practice of Red-tapeism, with a special +consideration of the amount of stationery thereby wasted, and its +probable cost to the Government. It would perhaps, be very interesting +to you, but to any one who is at all connected with it, the subject is +only one of weariness and disgust—weariness at the unproductive labour +entailed—disgust at the utter folly of the proceedings. So I pass it +by, leaving some one who is willing to sacrifice his feelings, or more +probably some one who knows nothing whatever about it to furnish the +much needed exposé; it is customary to cry it down but it is an +acknowledged evil, the custom has never been fully and fairly explained +to outsiders or it must have given way before the burst of public +indignation which such an explanation would have created. I have again +encamped in the Chinar Bugh, but not quite in the old position as a +better place was unoccupied. Indeed I had my pick of the whole, for +there is now nobody here but myself. I received news (in my letters) +that a field force had left Pindee to operate against some of the hill +tribes between Peshawur and Abbottabad—ruffians who are always giving +trouble, and who occasioned the inglorious Umbeylla campaign a few +years ago. I informed my "boy" that there was going to be some hard +fighting, and his reply was "With our troops, Sir?" Our troops! good +heavens! a black man speaking to me of "our troops." It is customary I +know to call these Asiatics our fellow subjects, but I never before had +the fact so forcibly brought before me.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 24th.—I got up early this morning and have spent half the day on +the "Dul" or "City Lake"—a large sheet of water which lies at the foot +of the hill behind Sreenuggur. Besides the excessive beauty of the lake +itself there are many objects of interest to be seen on its banks. I +visited in succession the Mussul Bagh, Rupa Lank or Silver Isle, +Shaliman Bagh, Suetoo Causeway, Nishat Bagh, Souee Lank or Golden Isle, +and floating gardens. A word or two of description for each. The Mussul +Bagh is a large grove of fine chenars planted in lines so as to form +avenues at right angles to each other. There must be several hundred of +these noble trees upon the ground, I do not mean fallen but erect and +vigorous. The Shaliman Bagh is an extensive and well cultivated pleasure +garden with pavilions, tanks, canals and fountains, in true oriental +style. The upper pavilion is especially worthy of notice having a +verandah built of magnificent black marble veined with quartz +containing gold. It is surrounded by a large tank possessing one hundred +and fifty-nine fountains, and its exterior is grandly if not +artistically painted. The Nishat Bagh is smaller but scarcely less +attractive. It is arranged in a series of fifteen terraces, from which a +splendid view is obtained of the lake and adjacent country. Down its +centre runs a canal, expanding at intervals into tanks and having a +waterfall for each terrace, with a single straight row of fountains +numbering more than one hundred and sixty. Grand hills rise immediately +above it. It contains pavilions of fruit trees, and as a flower garden, +is superior to the Shaliman Bagh. The Suetoo Causeway, is a series of +old bridges and embankments which formerly crossed the lake, and was two +or three miles long, but only portions of it now remain. The two islands +are small and covered with trees, having no interest of themselves, but +adding greatly to the appearance of the lake. They are I believe +artificially constructed. The celebrated floating gardens are very +curious; they were formed by dividing the stalks of the water weeds near +their roots, and sprinkling the surface of them with earth, which +sinking a little way was entangled in the fibres and retained; Fresh +soil was then added, until the whole was consolidated, and capable of +bearing a considerable weight. The ground is now about nine inches +thick, floating upon the surface of the water, and the stalks of the +weeds below it having disappeared. It is exceedingly porous and is used +for the cultivation of water melons, when walking upon it a peculiar +elasticity is perceived, accompanied with a tremulous or jelly like +motion. It is divided into long stripes pierced by a stake at each end, +which secures them in their position and allows of their rising or +falling with the height of the water. An unlucky day for Silly. In the +first place he was <i>sea-sick</i>. The use of the broad paddle in a small +boat caused a good deal of shaking, and every stroke is attended with a +sharp jerk forwards—secondly, he mistook a collection of weeds for dry +land and jumped out into the water. This puzzled him immensely, and +after he was recovered he sat for a long time gazing with a bewildered +air upon the surface of the lake. Paid a visit in the afternoon to +Sumnud Shah for the purpose of replenishing my exchequer, but found his +shop better calculated to exhaust it. I'll not go there again.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 25th.—Lying down inside my tent I just now heard two crows +chuckling and laughing in their way and saying to one another "here's a +joke" or caws to that effect. You need not laugh at this statement or +think that my mind has suddenly become deranged, I merely state a fact. +The language of animals—dumb creatures as fools call them—is far more +expressive than you imagine, and if you had spent the same time and the +same attention that I have in listening to birds notes, you would be +able to understand much of their meaning. Here a conversation carried on +in a foreign tongue, one to which you a perfect stranger, will you be +able to distinguish words? No! you will only hear a confusion of sounds +possessing apparently but little variety. But as you become accustomed +to it the words and syllables will start out into clear relief; so with +birds songs—at first they will appear to you to be always the same, but +they have really different tones and meanings, which you may learn to +appreciate by studying them in connection with their acts. However I +heard the crows say "here's a joke" and guessing I was to be the victim +of it, I immediately jumped up and rushed out. They flew away loudly +exulting and I found my match box,—which I had left on the table broken +to pieces and the matches carefully distributed so as to cover as large +a space of ground as possible; there is a crow's joke for you—there is +not much in it as a joke,—but I introduce it principally to show that +birds talk and that I (clever I) can understand them. I wrote the +foregoing to eke out my notes for the day, not having anything +particular to record. When the Baboo called upon me with the startling +intelligence, all officers from the Peshawur division ordered +immediately to rejoin their respective regiments; this has taken away +the greater number of the visitors and very few are now left in Kashmir. +Why don't I pack up and start? Well, I forgot to mention a short +sentence in the order "except those on medical certificate" which saves +me the trouble and annoyance of hurrying back before the expiration of +my leave. It is on account, I suppose, of the little war we have entered +on with those hill tribes, and I may be missing honour and glory, wounds +and death, neither of which I care to earn from barbarians on the black +mountains. I am sorry for the affair as I fear that from the +inaccessibility of the country the best result will barely escape +disaster. This is a strange day. You see me, one moment trifling with my +thoughts for the sake of occupation and then having matters and subjects +for the deepest consideration suddenly thrust upon me. Ought I to +rejoin? I am indeed protected from the necessity of doing so, but my +health is now fully established and such being the case, is it my duty +to waive my right and return to my regiment. I think not, for the reason +it is not likely that they will weaken the garrison at Peshawur by +sending any of its troops into the field. Its strength is maintained for +the purpose of defence against the Cabulese and other powerful Pathan +tribes immediately surrounding it, who are deadly enemies, and would be +eager to avail themselves of any opportunity for offence. Therefore I +imagine that my regiment will remain in quarter, and do just as well +without me as with me; and therefore have I determined to adhere to my +original plans.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 26th.—There was a great fire in the town last night; three +hundred houses have been destroyed. I went early to the scene of the +disaster, which is on the left bank of the river adjoining the first +bridge. The embers were still smouldering, and among the ruins the heat +was intense, owing to the houses having been built almost entirely of +wood, little but ashes and charred logs remained of them. Here and there +a few hot bricks retained the semblance of a wall, but the destruction +has been as complete as it is excessive. The bridge has also suffered, +the bank pier having been attacked by the flames, and half the railing +on either side of the foot-way has been torn off and precipitated into +the water. The latter injury was caused I imagine, by the rush of the +crowd over it at the time of the fire. No lives lost I believe.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 27th.—At six o'clock this morning a Jemindar or military +officer made his appearance, sent by the Baboo, for the purpose of +conducting me over the fort. A row of a mile down the river, and half a +mile walk through the narrow rough crowded and stinking streets of the +town brought us to the outworks, at the foot of the hill on which it is +built. This hill is very steep and several hundred feet high, (I do not +know the exact height, but I think it is between six and seven hundred +feet) and the climb up it was fatiguing. From the top there is an +extensive view, but the morning was misty and the greater part of the +valley indiscernible. In front lies the town, intersected by the Jhelum; +a great desert of mud-covered roofs presenting anything but the green +carpet-like appearance described in books. On the left long lines of +poplars, enclosing the Moonshi Bagh and the various encamping grounds, +with the Tukh-t-i-Suliman rising high above them. Behind, the Dul, +spread out like a sheet of silver with the back ground of mountains, and +many canals radiating and glistening in the sun-light. Of the fort I +have but little to say. From below, its position renders it imposing, +but a nearer inspection dispels the illusion. Inside it there is a +Hindoo temple, two or three tanks filled with green, slimy water, and +some wretched hovels for the occupation of the garrison. The ramparts +though high are weak and a few shells dropped within them would blow +the whole place to pieces. The ordnance consists of four ancient brass +guns; two of them about 9-pounders and the others 32-pounders, but I did +not see a spot from which either of them could be safely fired; and even +if there were bastions strong enough, I doubt if cannon could be +depressed sufficiently to sweep the precipitous sides of the hill. On my +way back to the boat, I turned aside to visit the Jumma Musjid, or chief +Mosque, a large quadrangular wooden building, the roof of which is +supported by deodar columns of great height, each pillar being cut out +of a single tree, but I cannot waste more time over it, the name recalls +to my memory the magnificent Jumma Musjid of Delhi—but comparisons are +odious. When parting with my attendant I felt uncertain whether or no he +would be offended by the offer of a remuneration for his trouble, so I +left him to ask for it, as natives usually do not scruple to request +"bucksheesh" for the most trifling service, but either his orders or his +dignity prevented him from soliciting it, and he went away unrewarded +and I doubt not dissatisfied. After noon I went and selected a lot of +papier maché articles, and gave monograms to be painted upon them. Their +papier maché is fairly made, elaborately painted and moderate in price. +At this shop they prepared some ladâk tea for me, a most delicious +beverage possessing a delicate flavour such as I have never before +tasted in any tea. It was sweetened with a sort of sweet-meat in lieu of +plain sugar.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 28th.—A blank day, I have done nothing but fish and only caught +one of moderate size. Early in the morning there was a storm attended +with high wind and heavy rain; it cleared up before sun-rise, but its +effect has been to make the day very pleasantly cool.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 29th.—Went up to the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Solomon's Throne) before +breakfast. It stands one thousand one hundred feet above the town, and +the ascent is effected by means of unhewn stones arranged in the form +of a rough flight of steps built by the Gins, I should fancy for their +own private use and without any consideration for the puny race of +mankind that was destined to follow them. I am a tall man and gifted +with a considerable length of <i>understanding</i> but the strides I was +obliged to take—sometimes almost bounds—if calculated to improve my +muscles, were certainly very trying to my wind. However all things have +an end, and so had that long flight of steps, and at the summit I had +leisure to recover my breath and enjoy the magnificent view. I took care +to have a clear day for this excursion, and the whole valley was seen +stretched out like a map, and spreading far away to the feet of its +stupendous mountain boundaries. The lakes like huge mirrors reflecting a +dazzling radiance. The Jhelum twisting like a "gilded snake" and forming +at the foot of the hill the original of the well-known shawl pattern; +miles upon miles of bright and verdant fields, divided and marked out by +the banks and hedges; clumps and groves of lofty trees diminished by +distance to the appearance of mere dark green bushy excrescences; the +poplar avenue looking like two long and paralleled lines drawn upon the +ground; the fort and hill but a pigmy now; the city of sombre colour, +with its houses closely huddled together and presenting an expanse of +mud—unworthy stone for such a setting! The high and rugged mountains +on every side piercing the clouds, out of which the everlasting snow and +ice rock regions untrod by mortal foot gleam and glisten coldly in the +scene below; these are the constituent parts of a view which taken +altogether ranks among the finest (if indeed it be not itself the +finest) in the world. But I have no description for it as a whole, words +would fail me if I attempted to reproduce it on paper, so you must take +the items and arrange them to your own satisfaction, and wish you had +the opportunity of seeing the glorious original. I am no antiquarian, +but I believe the building itself possesses great interest for those who +indulge in that musty study, on account of its vast antiquity and +uncertain history. To me it is only a Hindoo temple of quaint +architecture and unwholesome smell. Inside it is a small marble idol in +the form of a pillar with a snake carved round it.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 30th, Sunday.—The beginning of a fresh week which will at its +conclusion find me on my way homewards, my back turned on the lovely +valley and all the beauties that I have witnessed existing only in my +memory like a pleasant dream that has passed. So wags the world, joys +giving place to sorrows, and sorrows in their turn effaced by fresh +happiness or oblivion. For a little while each one of us plays his ever +varying part in the great drama of life. Now bewailing with bursting +heart, and scalding tears the light affliction which is but for a +moment; now with ringing laugh and reckless gaiety he enjoys the +present, forgetful alike of past and future, now with stormy passions +raging he "like an angry ape, plays such fantastic tricks before high +heaven, as make the angels weep;" and then is his short act over, then +the curtain falls and then will he be called before it to receive +approbation? Who can tell, I judge not one individually; but I may +generalize and say, that while as a rule we give a terrible earnestness +to the performance of the <i>business</i> connected with our parts, we too +often fail to appreciate and interpret the <i>spirit</i> of the character, +without which it is of course but a sorry exhibition and one that will +be deservedly damned. As I sit under the shade of the chenars writing, a +young native swell is passing along the opposite bank of the canal—a +mere boy, with gold turban, lofty plume and embroidered clothing, riding +a horse led by two grooms, followed by attendants also mounted, but +sitting two on a horse and preceded by a band consisting only of some +six drummers. He is playing his part doubtless very much to his own +satisfaction, and little thinking that there is one "taking notes" and +laughing at his proceedings. But so it is, we can always see, and +ridicule the faults and foibles of others, would to God we could as +easily perceive and weep over those of our own. The Baboo Mohes Chund +called to pay his farewell visit to me and shortly afterwards sent a +second edition of "russud" including as before—a live sheep.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 31st.—My last day in Sreenuggur—and now let me make a few +observations on a topic which I dare say you are surprised has not been +mentioned before, I mean the women; the far-famed beauties of Kashmir. I +am not ungallant, while I have been silent, I have been observing, and +have delayed my remarks in order that they might have the benefit of the +largest experience I could command. I did this the more willingly, +because to tell the truth, I was disappointed at first, and I hoped that +by waiting I might eventually have reason to change my unfavourable +opinion. This however has not been the case, and while I intend to do +full justice to their charms I must commence by saying that they have +been grossly exaggerated. I do not of course allude to the higher +classes. They are invisible; they <i>may</i> be very beautiful, but are never +seen by Europeans. But the middle and lower classes go about with the +face uncovered, exposing themselves to the criticism of some and the +admiration of others, and it is of them I speak. The slim elegant figure +of the Hindoo is seldom seen; they are large, plump, round women. Their +complexion has been absurdly compared to that of our brunettes (may they +feel complimented thereby) but veracity compels me to say that they are +<i>very dark</i>. Fair indeed by comparison with the Hindoos, but actually +and unmistakeably copper-coloured not to say <i>black</i>. In their features +we find a great improvement; a well-shaped nose replaces the expanded +nostrils, compressed lips, the thick pouting ones, their teeth are of +marvellous whiteness and regularity as are those of all Asiatics. Their +cheeks may sometimes have a tinge of pink, but this is usually veiled by +the darker tint of the "rete mucosum." Their eyes—oh! their eyes!—here +lies their beauty, almond-shaped eyes, that when not in anger cannot +help throwing the sweetest and most captivating glances. None of your +trained disciplined eyes, taught to express feelings that do not exist; +but still eyes that equally deceive, eyes that nature in some strange +freak determined should ever look love. Unconsciously and +unintentionally they dart upon you the brightest, the most tender, nay, +even passionate glances. When looking at a young face, you only see the +eyes; eyes so voluptuous, so maddening, that you exclaim "good heavens +what a beautiful creature," and unless you are a calm and cool analyst +like myself, you may not discover that there is really no beauty save in +them. They dress their hair in a peculiar manner. It is plaited in a +number of small plaits joining two larger ones which fall over the +shoulders and unite in the middle of the back to form a long tail +terminating with a tassel. The larger plaits are mixed with wool, this +adds to their bulk, and increase the length of the tail, which often +extends below the knees. They wear a single loose gown, reaching in +ample folds nearly to the feet. On the head a small red skull cap, over +which is thrown the white (too often dirty) "chudder"—a light cloth +which hangs down the back and is used for veiling the face. The +boatwomen are renowned for their beauty. I have seen but little of it. +The Punditanees are said to be more beautiful than the boatwomen. I +consider them even less so. But among the Nautch girls I have seen both +grace and beauty, and as a class, I certainly think far better looking +than the others. Respect to age is a noble feeling—though one that is +unfortunately at a low ebb now-a-days—but truth, compels me and I must +pronounce all the elderly women to be positively ugly, and a woman is +elderly in Kashmir when in England she still might be called young. The +men are a fine race, regular features, broad shouldered and muscular, +wearing their bushy black beards on their faces, but shaving the head, +which is covered with a small coloured skull cap and white turban. Two +other men have pitched their tents under this tope. To-morrow I shall +leave them in undisturbed possession of the whole. They are friends and +have been travelling in Kashmir. I have had a conversation with one of +them, but I don't like strangers and am glad they did not come before.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 1st.—Up and away, taking a last look at the town and bridges, +a last look at the Tukh-t-i-Suliman while floating down the river. I am +on my way to Baramula, having given up my intended visit to Gulmurg, so +that I may get a week at Murree, and see more of the place than I did +when I was last there. Adieu to Sreenuggur, adieu to the Scind, adieu +to Manusbul; gently onwards we go towards lake Wulloor. It is a bright +clear day, one of the brightest among the many bright ones, and the +valley seems smiling upon me an affectionate farewell in order that the +last recollections and parting scene may be a joyful memory to me in +days and years to come. I thank thee for it. When I am gone let +rain-tears fall and clouds of care bewail my absence, but gladden my +departing moments with the full radiance of thy glorious countenance. +Oh! Kashmir, loveliest spot on earth, I owe thee a deep debt of +gratitude, I came to thee weak in body; thou hast restored my strength, +I was poor in thought; thou hast filled my heart with good things, I +was proud in conceit; thou hast shown me nature's grandeur and my own +littleness. With a voiceless tongue thou hast spoken and my spirit has +heard the unuttered words. Tales of the creation when the morning stars +sang together and all the sons of God shouted for joy; tales of man and +his works perished in the endless roll of ages; tales of the future when +heaven and earth shall have passed away amid the dread terror of the +great tribulation. Aye, and one more tale, a tale of love, mercy, and +forgiveness; the tale of an Asiatic—who, not far from here, was once +"bruised for our transgressions," who took upon Himself the iniquities +of us all and made up for us a mighty deliverance, and to this tale +there is a refrain that echoes from hill to hill, and spreads along the +plain in endless repetition, "believe only and thou shalt be saved," but +though the command is so simple, its eager passionate tone as it swells +around me, and an earnest mournful cadence as it dies away in the +distance, seems to imply that it is neither easily nor commonly obeyed.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 2nd.—Awoke early and found myself in the broad waters of the +lake, the full moon shining brightly in the west, and yet unpaled by the +rosy dawn that was rapidly illuminating the east. Stopped at Sopoor for +breakfast, and Macnamara, surgeon of the 60th Rifles, and his wife, +arrived soon after me, also bound for Murree. Macnamara was at Peshawur +with me, and was one of the committee that sent me away. We passed the +morning in conversation, and at mid-day continued our journey to +Baramula. He told me that he had heard that I was going home this winter +with troops; but I do not know whether his information is reliable. I +trust it may prove to be so, but it has not raised my hopes to a +certainty. It is a good rule never to reckon confidently upon the +achievement of our desires. It never assists to realise them and only +renders the disappointment more bitter in case of failure. I have a +great hope, but I do not forget that obstacles may arise, that while +man proposes God disposes, and often find myself forming plans for next +year under the supposition that I shall still remain in India. I have +written the dedication of this volume and have written it as if I had +already returned to England, and this may appear to indicate that I rely +strongly upon the fulfilment of my expectation. But not so, I can alter +or destroy it if need be, and shall do so with regret indeed, but +without despair. About halfway between Sopoor and Baramula the wind +increased to a gale and obliged me to take refuge under the bank. I +dined with Macnamara and his wife at 8 o'clock, the weather moderated +and we proceeded to Baramula.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 3rd.—At sunrise I obtained coolies, and turned my back on +the happy valley for ever. It was a beautiful morning with a golden haze +rising from the ground, the mountains appearing blue and purple against +the eastern halo; but before I had gone a mile a dark cloud gathered +around me, and wept passionate rain. I marched to Naoshera, ten miles, +followed in an hour by Dr. and Mrs. Macnamara who will be my fellow +travellers as far as Murree. The Rohale ferry is re-opened and I am +returning by the direct road on the left bank of the Jhelum. There is a +barahduree at every stage, so I sold my tent at Sreenuggur to render my +baggage lighter. I am travelling with only six coolies. The river is +much lower and less rapid than when I came up it, the excess of water +caused by the melting of the snow during the summer having been carried +off. It is still however a noisy turbulent torrent.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 4th.—A long march of fourteen miles to Ooree. The road is +becoming very hilly, but is not as yet nearly so rough and difficult as +on the other side. Passed two ruins; one of then very similar to those +at Wangut, but much smaller.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 5th.—To Chukoti, sixteen miles, a severe and fatiguing march, +the hills being intersected by ravines—the beds of streams—to all of +which there was a steep descent and corresponding ascent. This is the +worst march on the Murree road, but though bad, it is much better than +five or six that I described on my journey from Abbottabad. These long +marches are very detrimental to my diary, for at the conclusion I have +no energy either to think or write. I am not using my dandy now, and +have to walk every inch of the way.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 6th.—Fifteen weary miles to Huttian, low down on a level with +the river where I found a number of tents belonging to the Lord Bishop +of Calcutta and his Chaplain, who are here with a large retinue of +servants, and are on their way into Kashmir. They had very +considerately and unlike a certain —— —— left the bungalow empty for +the use of other travellers. Macnamara sprained his knee yesterday, and +used my dandy to day. One of my coolies stumbled on the road and the +Kitta he was carrying—containing my stores and cooking utensils, went +over the Rhudd and burst open in the fall. Macnamara was behind +fortunately (for me) and superintended the collection of the articles so +that my only loss of any moment is that of my big cooking pot, which +from its weight probably rolled all the way down to the Jhelum—the long +grass growing on the hill, stopped the other things. The six remaining +marches are I am glad to say short. The three last have been a severe +trial on account of the numerous and rough ups and downs, and for the +last mile or two this morning, the soles of my feet were in great pain; +Silly too was very exhausted even to the dropping of his tail.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 7th.—Got up at daybreak and marched on Chikar, distance ten +miles. For three miles the road continued along the valley of the +Jhelum, and then turned to the south, and crossed several ranges of +hills, each range rising higher than the one before, very hard work it +was, the ascents being so steep and long—I can't keep my breath going +up hill; it is far more fatiguing than any roughness of road. Chikar is +a good sized village with a fort and is situated on the summit of a +mountain at least two thousand feet above the Jhelum. There is a fine +view of the surrounding hills from the Barahduree. Shortly after our +arrival it began to rain, and has turned out a wet day. I had half my +crockery broken by the coolie dropping the basket instead of putting it +carefully down at the conclusion of the march.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 8th.—To Meira, seven and a half miles, a toilsome hill for +half the distance, and then a descent the rest of the way. Scenery very +pretty, the valleys being much larger and the mountains higher. The +Murree ridge is now visible. From this bungalow we can see the next +halting place, half way up a hill on the opposite side of an extensive +valley deeply cut by ravines. The view is really very grand—much the +finest on this road—in some parts it slightly resembles the scenery +around Darjeeling with, of course, pine trees taking the place of +magnolias and rhododendrons. The mere mention of those trees—magnolias +and rhododendrons I mean—will only give you a misconception of the +Sikin forests, because your ideas will be turned to the stunted shrubs +of our northern latitudes. The magnolias and rhododendrons I speak of, +are huge towering trees, taller than the largest oaks. How well I +remember the magnificent spectacle they presented when in blossom! I +have never seen mountains or forests that could compare in grandeur with +those of the eastern Himalayas. Can you imagine Kishun-gunga twenty-nine +thousand feet high? No! it is impossible; it is a sight that produces +the most intense awe, and when I first looked upon it I did not know how +to contain my feelings; but enough, or I shall be giving you a chapter +quite irrevelant to my journey from Kashmir. By the side of this +bungalow stands a large cypress; a very beautiful and by no means a +common tree. There is something peculiarly rich in its dark green +foliage, and withal, melancholy look, but that is doubtless owing to +its tomb—stone associations. Ince in his "Guide," calls it a +<i>sycamore</i>. He could hardly have named a tree more widely different.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 9th.—To Dunee, eight and a half miles; first half, down hill, +second up: both very steep and rough. A bad fatiguing march. The +barahduree here has been lately white-washed and looks quite refreshing +after the other dirty ones; but the rooms are ridiculously small. This +is the last halt in Kashmirian territory; to-morrow we shall be in a dâk +bungalow. I had a lesson to-day. The same lesson that the spider taught +Bruce—never to cease striving to obtain any desired object; and not +despair even if frequent failures attend the attempt. Ever since I left +Baramula I have been endeavouring to catch another of the green +butterflies, as beetles had eaten my first specimen. But they are very +alert on the wing, and I could not get near one. The last two or three +marches I had not seen any, having got out of their locality, but to-day +a solitary one flew by me and I knocked it down, caught it, and secured +it in my toper. Success will eventually crown all constant endeavours, +it is a slight peg on which to hang a moral, but let it pass. Life is +made up of trifles, and I desire my book to represent my life. A number +of people—ladies, men, and children—came into the bungalow at 2 +o'clock, having made a double march and overtaken us; so we are very +closely packed, even the verandah being occupied.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 10th.—To Kohala, six miles, nearly all the way down a +terribly steep and rough hill to the banks of the Jhelum—which river +has taken a great bend among the mountains and now runs at right angles +to its former course. A ferry boat crosses the torrent at this spot and +the passage during the summer is attended with considerable danger, as +the stream runs at the rate of twenty miles an hour. I got my baggage in +it and landed upon British soil at the other side. The Dâk bungalow is +just above, but we were very much crowded as all the other people +remained for the night. After dinner a great thunderstorm took place +accompanied with very heavy rain.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 11th.—Marched to Dargwal, twelve miles, up hill all the way, +but the road is broad and smooth, so that the march was quickly and +easily accomplished. M—— and his wife did not come in till the middle +of the day as they could not get coolies in time to start early. There +is a good furnished bungalow here, our other fellow travellers have gone +on to Murree, so we have the house to ourselves.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 12th.—To Murree, ten miles, road the same as yesterday. Went +to Woodcot, and found Spurgeon, Gordon, and Egerton, of the 36th; Hensma +and Beadnell, 77th; and Dalrymple, 88th. Put up with them sharing +Spurgeon's room. Spent a pleasant time at Murree, doing very little—a +long rest of ten days after my labours—and on the 22nd, at 1 o'clock, I +took my seat in the mail cart with Redan Massy for my companion, and +started on my journey to Peshawur. Arrived at Rawul Birder at 6 in the +evening, and went on at once by the Government van. Had no time for +food. Got to Peshawur at 7 o'clock next morning, and thus ended my three +months sick leave. And now I go back to the din and bustle of life, the +empty conventionalities of society, the noise and glitter of mess; to +the re-pursuit of my profession, and to learn again by the bedside of +many a dying man how weak and powerless is that profession to combat the +ills that flesh is heir to. I sometimes wish I could exchange my present +calling. Terrible thoughts often assail me, after the death of any of my +patients. Questions as to whether I am at all responsible for the fatal +issue. Whether by lack of knowledge that I should possess or by careless +observation during the progress of the disease, I have allowed a man to +die who might have been saved, or pushed into the grave one who was only +trembling with uncertainty upon its brink. Yet as a set off against +these feelings there is the satisfaction experienced when sufferings are +relieved or health restored by the interposition of my aid. The +profession of medicine is potent for good and evil. For good in the +hands of him who makes it his lifelong study; for evil in his hands who +adopts it merely as a respectable means of obtaining his livelihood. It +is noble in the one case; detestable in the other. You do not know how +detestable. If the vail could be raised, if you could see the vast +amount of misery and suffering caused, the many hearts broken that God +would not have made sad; and the many unprepared souls hurried out of +this life into eternity by the ignorance of men who are "licensed to +kill," you would cry out against the whole body of the profession with a +bitter hatred, that even the army of noble and devoted minds amongst us +would be unable to appease. Am I too severe? I fear not. There are +charlatans and know nothings in every pursuit, but in mine they effect +so seriously the temporal and may be eternal welfare of mankind that +their existence is awful to contemplate. Shall I, in conclusion, write +an apology for having nothing better than the foregoing to offer for +your perusal "devil a bit." If I have written folly and you have read it +all, why, you are the greater simpleton. To me it was an occupation when +I had nothing better to do, on your part it was a foolish waste of +time, which might have been more profitably employed. If I have written +folly and you have <i>not</i> read it, what necessity is there for me to +apologize to you? If I have written sense and you consider it nonsense, +you owe me an apology for your erroneous opinion. But if I have written +sense and you have derived pleasure from the perusal of it, then we are +both content, and I need neither forefend your criticism nor beg your +excuses. Thus then I have proved that though it may possibly be +necessary for you to apologize to me, it cannot under any circumstance +be needful for me to apologize to you. But there is a small class to +whom the above remarks do not apply. I mean those few who I delight to +think will read my book diligently and admiringly, merely because <i>I</i> +wrote it. Whose judgment is warped by their affection, and who will be +unconscious of the weary yawn my pages may often produce. Shall I +apologize to them? No! let them read, let them yawn; T'is a labour of +love on their part, a labour which <i>love</i> has prepared for them—and for +them alone—or mine.</p> + +<p>And now farewell. May your shadow <i>never</i> grow less! May you live for a +thousand years.</p> + +<p class="smcap">Hazor Salaam.</p> + + +<p>JANUARY 16th, 1869.—If these notes should ever be written out by my +relations after my death—for I am now like to die, let me beg that the +many mistakes in spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of +the writing, may by corrected and not set down to ignorance.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_SUBSCRIBERS" id="LIST_OF_SUBSCRIBERS"></a>LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.</h2> + +<ul><li>Prince Frederic of Schleswig Holstein.</li> +<li>His Excellency Lieut.-General E. Frome, R.E., Governor of Guernsey.</li> +<li>Sir P. Stafford Carey, Bailiff of Guernsey.</li> +<li>Edgar MacCulloch, Esq., Lieutenant-Bailiff.</li> +<li>William Wallace Armstrong, Esq., San Francisco. A.B.</li> +<li>Mrs. Boucaut, Guernsey.</li> +<li>General Sir George Brooke, K.C.B., R.H.A.</li> +<li>Lieut.-Col. H.J. Buchanan, 2-9th Regiment.</li> +<li>Major Henry L. Brownrigg, 84th Regiment.</li> +<li>Henry S.R. Bagenal, Esq., Control Department.</li> +<li>Captain George P. Beamish, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mr. George Beedle, Quarter-Master 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>A. Brown, Esq., National Provincial Bank of England.</li> +<li>J. P. Bainbrigge, Esq., Bank of England, Liverpool.</li> +<li>J. Banckes, Esq., Shipwrecked Mariners' Society.</li> +<li>Mrs. Crawford, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Cunnynghame, Edinburgh.</li> +<li>W. Collins, Esq., M.D., Scots Fusilier Guards.</li> +<li>Mrs. Cave, Hartley Whitney, Hants.</li> +<li>Captain G. Collis, 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Colonel Conran, Fitzroy, Melbourne.</li> +<li>H. Couling, Esq., Brighton.</li> +<li>H. Cuppaidge, Esq.</li> +<li>Miss Dugdale, 75, Gloucester Terrace, Hyde Park, W.</li> +<li>Miss E. Donne, Grove Terrace Highgate.</li> +<li>Miss Donne, Salisbury.</li> +<li>James D'Altera, Esq., M.D.</li> +<li>James Deane, Esq., Queenstown, Cork.</li> +<li>W.G. Don, Esq., M.D.</li> +<li>Dr. Drewitt, Wimborne, Dorset.</li> +<li>Dr. Dudfield, 8, Upper Phillimore Place, Kensington, W.</li> +<li>B. De Marylski, Esq., Royal Artillery.</li> +<li>Captain P. De Saumarez, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Captain D.K. Evans, 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. W. Foster, 7, Lower Berkeley Street, London.</li> +<li>Mrs. E. Foster, 10, Chester Terrace, Regent's Park.</li> +<li>Mrs. Feilden, Isle of Herm.</li> +<li>Major-Gen. Sampson Freeth, late Royal Engineers.</li> +<li>Major-Gen. James H. Freeth, late Royal Engineers.</li> +<li>Colonel Foster, late 16th Lancers.</li> +<li>The Rev. W. Foran, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Walter Freeth Esq., Croydon.</li> +<li>Henry Foster Esq., Victoria Road, Kensington.</li> +<li>Patterson Foster, Esq.</li> +<li>Kingsly, O. Foster, Esq.</li> +<li>Mrs. F.W. Gosselin, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Rev. F. Giffard, The Vicarage, Hartley Wintney.</li> +<li>John C. Guerin, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>S.M. Gully, Esq., 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>F.L. Grundy, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>M. Garnier, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Horridge.</li> +<li>Lieut.-Col. Fitzwilliam Hunter, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>T. Holmes, Esq., 18, Great Cumberland Place, Hyde Park.</li> +<li>Captain J.B. Hopkins, 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Reginald Hollingworth, Esq., late 77th Regiment.</li> +<li>T. Husband, Esq., 34, Argyle Road, Kensington.</li> +<li>Charles Hogge, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li></ul> + + +<h4>In Memoriam.</h4> +<ul><li>Miss B.S.H. Coventry Jeffery.</li> +<li>Captain A.H. Josselyn, 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>J.W. Jones, Esq., 5th Dragoon Guards.</li> +<li>The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A.</li> +<li>Mr. J. Kenwood, Hartley Wintney.</li> +<li>Mrs. Le Marchant Thomas Le Marchant, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Miss Lefebvre, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. La Serre, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Sir T. Galbraith Logan, K.C.B., Director General.</li> +<li>Thomas Lacy, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Major R.B. Lloyd, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>"Library," Officers, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mr. Thomas Lenfestey, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. MacPherson, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Mogg, Clifton.</li> +<li>Mrs. Peter Martin, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Myers, Guernsey.</li> +<li>A.D. MacGregor, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Capt. A.E. Morgan, late 71st Highland Lt. Inf.</li> +<li>Captain J.W. Massey, 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>J.W. Morgan, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>James E. Macdonnel, Esq., 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>W.H. Marriot, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>S.M. Maxwell, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>A. Morgan, Esq., Treasurer, S.W. Railway.</li> +<li>The Mess, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>W. Moullin, Esq., Clifton.</li> +<li>Miss A.M. Newman, Cheltenham.</li> +<li>The Rev. E.J. Ozanne, M.A., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Captain J. Osmer, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>E.F. O'Leary, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. Joshua Priaulx, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mr. Charles Palmer, Hartley Wintney.</li> +<li>Miss M. Pittard Guernsey.</li> +<li>Colonel Priaulx, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Colonel Lewis Peyton.</li> +<li>G. Pollock, Esq., 36, Grosvenor Street, London, W.</li> +<li>C.W. Poulton, Esq., 35th Regiment.</li> +<li>G. Pound; Esq., Odiham, Hants.</li> +<li>Mrs. Ramsay, Isle of Sark.</li> +<li>John Roberts, Esq., M.D., Guernsey.</li> +<li>George M. Richmond, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>J.L. Rose, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. Sandes, St. John's Hill, London, S.W.</li> +<li>Mrs. R. Smith, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Lieut.-Col. R. Scott, Fort George, Aberdeen.</li> +<li>Major Charles Stirling, late Royal Artillery.</li> +<li>Dr. Fowler Smith, District Recruiting Office, Peterborough.</li> +<li>Capt. C. Spurgeon, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Capt. H. Stopford, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>W. Smail, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>R.B. Smyth, Esq., M.B. 102d Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. Threllfall, Ferryside, South Wales.</li> +<li>Capt. C. Townsend, Royal Artillery.</li> +<li>D. Thorburn, Esq., M.D., 8th Hussars.</li> +<li>Mrs. Wren, 3 Paris Square, Bayswater.</li> +<li>Charles Williams, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Watkin S. Whylock, Esq., M.D., Assist.-Surgeon.</li> +<li>Capt. H. Webb, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mr Wetheral, Oak Lodge, Winchfield.</li> +<li>Netley Library.</li> +<li>And "Others received too late for publication."</li></ul> + + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h5>LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, BORDAGE-STREET.</h5> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14213 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c67b49 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #14213 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/14213) diff --git a/old/14213-8.txt b/old/14213-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a2b34ad --- /dev/null +++ b/old/14213-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2782 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Months of My Life, by J. F. Foster + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Three Months of My Life + +Author: J. F. Foster + +Release Date: November 30, 2004 [EBook #14213] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +[Transcriber's Note: At the conclusion of this diary, the author writes: +"If these notes should ever be written out by my relations after my +death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the many mistakes in +spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of the writing, may by +corrected and not set down to ignorance." The relations may indeed have +corrected many errors, but many remain, and they have been left as in +the original.] + + + + +THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE. + + +A DIARY + +OF THE LATE J.F. FOSTER, ASSISTANT-SURGEON, HER MAJESTY'S 36TH FOOT. + + + + +_Edited by LIZZIE A. FREETH._ + + +GUERNSEY: +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, 10, BORDAGE STREET. +LONDON: SIMPKIN & MARSHALL +1873. + + + + +I DEDICATE, + +_Firstly,_ + +MY GRATITUDE TO GOD-- +FOR HIS MERCY IN PRESERVING ME THUS FAR, +AND BRINGING ME SAFELY HOME AFTER +SEVERAL YEARS SERVICE IN INDIA, +TO MEET AGAIN ALL (SAVE ONE) THOSE MOST +DEAR TO ME. + +_And Secondly,_ + +MY BOOK TO MY PARENTS, +WITH THE CERTAIN AND HAPPY KNOWLEDGE +THAT THEY WILL READ WITHOUT CRITICISM +AND ONLY WITH AFFECTIONATE INTEREST, +THE ACCOUNT OF MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES +WHILE WANDERING IN A REMOTE +AND LOVELY CORNER OF +THE EARTH. + + + + +EDITOR'S PREFACE. + + +In laying the following pages before the public, I do so with a feeling +that they will be read with interest, not only by those who knew the +writer, but those to whom the scenes described therein are known, and +also those who appreciate a true description of a country which they may +never have the good fortune to see. We are all familiar with Kashmir in +the "fanciful imagery of Lalla Rookh," at the same time may not object +to reading an account--with a ring of truth in it--of that lovely land, +lovely and grand, beyond the power of poets to describe as it really +is, so travellers say. Readers will see that Mr. Foster intended to have +published this Diary himself had he been spared to reach England, he has +offered any apology that is necessary, so I will say nothing further +than to state, the daily entries were kept in a pocket-book written in +pencil, occasionally a word is not quite legible, that will account for +any little inaccuracy. After being two years at Elizabeth College, +Guernsey, under the Rev. A. Corfe, Mr. Foster entered St. George's +Hospital, as Student of Medicine, he received there in his last year the +"Ten Guinea Prize" for General Proficiency. From St. George's he went to +Netley, and on leaving that he served for a short time in Jersey, with +the 2nd Battallion 1st Royals, and 1st Battallion 6th Royals, after +which he embarked for India, where from February, 1868, to the beginning +of 1869, he served with the following Regiments, &c., 91st Highlanders, +at Dum Dum; F Battery C. Brigade Royal Horse Artillery, at Benares; 27th +Inniskillings, at Hazareebagh, Bengal Depôt, Chinsurah; Detachment 58th +Regiment, at Sahibgunge; Head-Quarters 58th Regiment, at Sinchal, again +at the Bengal Depôt Chinsurah; Head-Quarters 107th Regiment, at +Allahabad; Detachment 107th Regiment, at Fort Allahabad; G Battery 11th +Brigade Royal Artillery, at Cawnpore; Left Wing 36th Regiment, +Moradabad; Head-Quarters 36th Regiment, Peshawur, from whence +ultimately we find he started for Kashmir in the hope of regaining his +health, a vain hope as events proved, as he died on the passage home at +Malta. During the course of publication I have received many letters +from people who were personally acquainted with Mr. Foster who had met +him at home and abroad, from the tone of which letters I gather he was +held in the highest possible estimation as a friend, a medical man, and +an officer. I am indebted to the kindness of his father, Dr. John L. +Foster, of this island, for being allowed to publish these interesting +memorials of one who had now passed "To where beyond these voices there +is peace." + +LIZZIE A. FREETH. +Montpellier, Guernsey, Nov. 1873. + + + + +AUTHOR'S PREFACE. + + +This Work requires few prefatory remarks. I have transcribed without +alteration, the Diary that I kept during my visit to Kashmir. It may +seem a strange jumble of description and sentiment, jocularity and +seriousness. During the greater part of each day I enjoyed perfect rest, +smoking and thinking--sometimes soberly, often I fear idly--and for mere +occupation sake, my thoughts were written as they arose. My mind as +influenced by scene or incident, is fully exposed in these pages, and +while I have concealed nothing, neither have I added to that which I +originally indited. I am necessarily, and indeed intentionally +egotistical, because I write for those who will chiefly value a personal +narrative. Still, I am not ashamed if others see my book, although I +would deprecate their criticism by begging them to remember that I only +offer it for the perusal of those near and dear to me. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +In the early morning of Midsummer's-day, 1868, I might have been seen +slowly wending my way towards the office of the Deputy Inspector General +of Hospitals, at Peshawur--for the purpose of appearing before the +standing Medical Committee of the station, and having an enquiry made +concerning the state of my health. A Dooley followed me lest my strength +should prove inadequate to the task of walking a quarter of a mile. But +let me make my description as short as the Committee did their enquiry. +My face, as white as the clothes I wore, told more than my words could, +and I was hardly required to recount how that one burning May-day I was +called at noon to visit a sick woman, and that while all other Europeans +were in their closed and darkened bungalows with punkahs swinging, and +thermautidotes blowing cool breezes, I went forth alone on my medical +mission to encounter the fierce gaze of the baneful sun, and was +overpowered by its fiery influence, or how that I laid a weary month on +the sick bed, tormented by day with a never ceasing headache, and by +night with a terrible dread, worse than any pain, or to conclude, how +the deadly climate of that notoriously evil station afforded me no +prospect of improvement. This relation was scarcely needed to procure +me a certificate, stating that three months leave of absence to Murree +was absolutely essential for my recovery, and a recommendation that I +might be allowed to proceed immediately in anticipation of the leave +being granted. So the next evening saw me start from Peshawur for Rawul +Pindee, in a Dâk Gharie, accompanied by my dog "Silly" and my Madrapee +servant or "Boy." Onwards we sped at a gallop, the horses being changed +every six miles, through Nowshera, the furnace; over the rapid and icy +cold Indus by boat; past Fort Attock, the oven in which our soldiers are +done to death; and Hussan Aboul of Lallah Rooke celebrity; arriving at +the French Hotel at Pinder, ten miles from Peshawur the following +morning. That day I called upon the Officers of the 6th Foot, with whom +I had served in Jersey, and was persuaded to dine at mess. A melancholy +dinner it was for me, meeting old friends whom I had not seen for so +long. Yet not possessing energy enough for conversation or feeling the +spirit of "Hail fellows, well met." I felt that my moody silence and +ghostlike appearance (for I was dressed in black) threw a gloom over +them. This was no doubt a morbid fancy as also was perhaps the idea that +they looked at me with pitying eyes. But these feelings seized me, and +increased till they became unbearable, and I was glad to escape to my +Hotel. + + + + +"THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE." + +A DIARY. + + +JULY 4th, 1868.--Started from Murree for Kashmir at 5.30 a.m. Bell, +Surgeon 36th Regt. [Since deceased] came with me four miles. Walked on +expecting the dandy to overtake me, but it did not, and I marched all +the way, nine miles up a steep hill to Khaira Gullee, where I halted and +put up in one of the old sheds formerly used by the working party when +the road was being made. I am not tired, though my left heel is +blistered, which is fair considering I have not walked half a mile for +more than a month. The road is excellent and the scenery fine, the Khuds +being sometimes deep, but nothing like the eastern Himalayas. The forest +too is quite different, fir trees predominating here. Saw many beautiful +birds, and regretted I had not brought my gun. In the evening a +thunderstorm came on with a cold wind from the north, so I made a good +fire with a few fir logs. In the middle of the night the storm became +very violent, and large hailstones fell. + + +JULY 5th.--Got away at sunrise, the rain having quite cleared off, and +marched on to Doonga Gullee, up a hill to an elevation of 9,000 feet, +and then down again to about 7,000; then up a final steep to Doonga +Gullee, 8,000 feet above the sea. The Khuds much grander very deep and +precipitous, sometimes falling one or two thousand feet from the edge of +the road almost perpendicularly. But the hills are too close together to +allow the valleys to be termed magnificent. Reached Doonga Gullee at 10 +a.m. The length of last march, eleven miles--the road, a good military +one, has been cut in the face of the mountain. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, and dined with the officers of the working party; among them +Heath, of the 88th, and Leggatt and Lyons, of the 77th, whom I knew. A +number of tents are pitched here for the working parties from the 19th +and 77th Regiments (road making). I was carried part of the march in my +dandy--a piece of carpet gathered at each end and hooked to a pole,--the +pole being carried on the shoulders of two men. I swung below it just +off the ground, and could often look down a vast depth between my knees. +My first pickled tongue, cooked the day before yesterday was fly-blown +at breakfast this morning. This may seem a trifling note, but it is +ominous I fear for the whole of my salted stores. + + +JULY 6th.--Got up at 4 o'clock and marched on to Bugnoota, a distance +of thirteen miles. The first four miles a slight rise, and then a rapid +descent all the rest of the way. The road is much narrower, only a mule +track in fact, I walked twelve miles, and then felt tired, and had a +headache afterwards. Pitched my tent in a tope, (a grove of trees) in +company with Dr. and Mrs. Holmes, of Rohat, whom I did not know. Slight +rain in the middle of the day, but it cleared off towards evening. Felt +all right after an hour's sleep and took a stroll before dinner. Scenery +grand, tent pitched on the edge of a deep gorge at the bottom of which +is a mountain stream, the hills rising abruptly on the opposite side. + + +JULY 7th.--Marched on to Abbottabad at sunrise, down hill to the river, +and then along its course for two miles over very rough and fatiguing +ground, the river having to be forded twice. In rainy weather this is +very dangerous as its rush is so impetuous. Up hill again then down into +the plain of Abbottabad, 4,000 feet above the sea. Distance twelve miles +though only put down eight in the route. Met the General at the bottom +of the hill. Put up at the Dâk Bungalow, and met Ford, 88th, and De +Marylski, R.A., returning from Kashmir, got some hints from them. +Abbottabad is a small cantonment on a large plain surrounded by bare +mountains, a notice is posted in my room warning travellers not to go +unarmed; so I'll gird on my Kookery to-morrow. A Kookery is a formidable +native knife, about eighteen inches long and over two inches wide, +carried in a peculiar way, sheep and goats heads come off very easily at +a single blow from it. Much hotter down here, the sun powerful after 10 +o'clock, but Punkahs not necessary. This is the Head-Quarters of the +Punjab Frontier force. A pity they do not have an English Regiment +stationed here as it is a very pleasant place as regards climate. Snow +in winter, and this the warmest time of the year quite bearable. +Brigadier gone to the _hills_ for the _hot weather._ Took in supplies of +bread and butter and purchased a pair of chuplus or sandals for +marching in, as boots hurt my feet. + + +JULY 8th.--A long tedious march of nearly fifteen miles to Mansera, put +down in the guide as a level plain road, but having a good many ups and +downs. One of my sandals broke, and I was obliged to ride in the dandy +about half way. Some difficulty occurred in getting my baggage off as +the Coolies did not come. Left my boy to manage it, he came in about +noon with two ponies, I shall not pay for them yet, and then they will +come on with me. A warmer day than yesterday. Mountains rising up in +front, which I shall begin to ascend to-morrow if I make the whole march +of twenty miles. Snow visible above all. The real work of the trip will +now soon commence. The marches hitherto have been child's play compared +with those to come. Mansera is only a native village, but there is a Dâk +Bungalow, in which I am now. Met Captain Ellis, of the 4th Hussars, +returning from Kashmir, and had a talk with him. There are _two_ routes +open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by +the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as +to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has +only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for +I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast +with the plains of India. + + +JULY 9th.--Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to +Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in +sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on. +First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an +undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking +owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it +as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to +Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance +rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by +high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting +of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at +the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank +of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension +bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I +look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are +two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have +not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell +all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under +flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of +ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a +small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight +feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin, +salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one +bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy +or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking +utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with +white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap, +tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into +Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voilà tout." For carrying this baggage, +I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable, +seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going +all the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day, +and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent some +Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian +fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without +much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as +of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant +music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time +in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been +altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen +and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few +men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate, +when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many experiences +to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully done up towards +the end of the march. At last we came to a running stream in which he +laid down and was much refreshed, before that his panting had become +gasping though he kept up with us bravely, only lying down for a moment +when we came to a little bit of shade--not often met with, the last +three or four miles. For the last day or two, I have been almost +continually in a cool, gentle perspiration, this is a great contrast to +my state when at Peshawur, where my skin was always as dry as a bone, +and I look upon that as a healthy symptom, I have had no headache since +I left Bugnostan. + + +JULY 10th.--To Mozufferabad nine miles, but apparently much more, such a +bad fatiguing march. I got away with the first grey of the dawn and +after a mile's tramp began the ascent of the Doabbuller pass, three and +a half miles long and very steep, so steep that I could often touch the +ground with my hands without stooping much. This was terribly exhausting +and I had to make many halts to recover my breath. Then began a rough +descent along the side of a mountain torrent and afterwards over its +bed, which is a narrow gorge between high hills. This walking was very +rough and difficult; the path being covered with great stones and often +undistinguishable. Indeed it was no path at all, only the ground +occasionally a little trodden. Through the stream, backwards and +forwards _innumerable_ times we went. I found that my feet, though naked +except where covered by the straps of the sandals, were able to take +care of themselves, and avoid contusion almost without the help of my +eyes. Then I came to a large and rapid river called the Kishun-gunga +crossed by a rope bridge. Let me describe the bridge. Three or four +leather ropes about one inch in diameter tied into a bundle to walk +upon, three feet above this, a couple of ropes, two feet apart, the +upper ropes connected to the lower one at intervals of four or five +yards by stakes. This formed a V shape, and you walk on the point of the +V and hold on by the two sides. The breadth of the river is sixty yards, +and the bridge which is high above the water forms a considerable curve. +The description of the bridge is easy enough, but how shall I describe +my feelings, when I had gone a few yards and found myself poised in +mid-air like a spider on a web, oscillating, swaying backwards and +forwards over a foaming and roaring torrent, the rush of the water if I +looked at my feet, made me feel as if I was being violently carried in +the opposite direction; the bridge swayed and jumped with the weight of +half a dozen natives coming from the opposite side whom I had to pass, +the whole thing seemed so weak and the danger so terrible that I turned +giddy, lost my head, and cried out to be held. A firm hand at once +grasped me behind and another in front. I shut my eyes and so proceeded +a few yards. Then those dreadful men had to be passed. Imagine meeting +a man on a rope fifty feet above a torrent and requiring him to "give +you the wall." However they were passed by a mysterious interlacing of +feet; and when half way over I regained confidence, and bid the men +"chando" or release me, and so gained the opposite bank, where I sat +down and roared with laughter at my "boy" who was then coming over, and +who evidently was much more affected than I was. However he arrived +safely with his black face _pale_, dripping with perspiration and saying +he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one +in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally +laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go +down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low +ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by +the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge, +for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow +built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves +the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet +weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's +Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from +him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book. +There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the +bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick. +It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream. +Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated +Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for +carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they +were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite side. +To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their +impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to certain +destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the whole +of this march, though often tired, as I preferred trusting my own legs +to being carried in the dandy over such bad ground. Curran, +Assistant-Surgeon, 88th Connaught Rangers, is one march in front of me. +He has left his pony here till he returns. I suppose the last march was +too much for him. I am very glad I did not bring my horse with me; I was +strongly advised to do so, but I am afraid advice has not much weight +with me; in this instance anyhow, my own opinion has proved the best. +All the men I meet coming back have horses with them, but they are +nearly all shoeless, lame and sick, and have not been ridden for weeks. + + +JULY 11th.--Marched on Hultian, distant seventeen miles. Much better +road than yesterday, but many ups and downs and short rough bits. +Started two hours before sunrise, by the light of the moon. The road +soon reached the right bank of the Jhelum and continued the whole +distance alongside of that river. It is a rapid river apparently not so +deep and often not so wide as the Kishun-gunga, its bed strewn with huge +boulders over which the water breaks in great waves of foam. It runs in +a narrow rocky channel the precipitous sides of which are a great +height. How many ages must it have taken to cut this channel in the +solid rock? The valley is bounded by high hills, very narrow, the road +so bare of trees, that the latter half of the march became hot and +wearying, so I had recourse to the dandy for four or five miles. But it +was rare gymnastic exercise as swinging from my pole I had to dodge the +great stones on either side of me and keep a sharp look out to avoid +hard bumps. My dog was again very much fatigued. His tail is a good +token of his state, for when fresh it is stiff along his back, and +gradually drops as he goes along until he is quite exhausted, when it +hangs straight down. Stopped at a Barahduree (not so good a one as the +last) a few feet above the Jhelum in which I bathed. There is a rope +bridge opposite, a much older one than the other I crossed, but not more +than half as long, and not high above the water, some of the ropes are +broken, and it seems very shaky. However, I must cross it to-morrow and +get into the Murree road, which runs parallel to this one, on the other +bank, and is on the shady side and much cooler. It has been very hot all +day. The reason I could not come the direct road from Murree is because +the ferry over the Jhelum lower down, was recently carried away and +twenty-six natives drowned. Sir G. Larpent's (of the 88th) baggage was +in the boat, and he lost it all. He had not crossed and had to go back +to Murree minus everything including servants. There is excellent +Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of +80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me, +and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do +anything but moon about. I did not then know the great exertion +necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily +infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with +an undertaker. Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and +supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must +keep to it and not cross as I intended. In the evening a slim young +native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, "a +present." I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and +plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below +the bungalow. He then went up the river again, and swam down to this +side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous +velocity. I gave him eight annas for it. + + +JULY 12th, "Sunday."--In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was +sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning +to rain, and I had to move into the house. It was broad daylight when I +was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed. I said it would rain, and +I would halt. My boy said, "No Sir, no rain." I said the sun would come +out and it would be burning hot. He said, "No Sir, no sun." I felt it +was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda, +eighteen miles, walking all the way. A hard march, nothing but steep +rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the +river, but two or three hundred feet above it. My Coolies pointed out to +me a herd of "chiken" on a very high hill, at least four miles away. I +saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to +very small objects, but did not dispute with them. They say uncivilized +man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far +higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect. Met three +men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them. Don't know who +they were. Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and +was delighted to see it was quite close to me. But alas! several weary +miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could +be reached. This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future +put no faith in appearances. The Barahduree here is a two storied one, +standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is +here confined in a very narrow channel. I took the upper room which has +three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which +there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains +being crowned with pine forests. Had neither sun nor rain while +marching, but soon afterwards the sun shone out, though heavy and +threatening clouds continued to hang about the horizon. As I write this +I hear the first roll of thunder, there will be another storm to-night. +The Maharajah's officials come to me at every stage to enquire my wants +and provide for the same. Other natives also come with an insane +request,--a medical prescription for a sick Bhai (or brother) who +always has fever, and is at a great distance. What possible use a +prescription could be to them I cannot decide. The storm came up just +before dinner, 6 p.m., and was rather sharp but soon over. I came up the +valley of the Jhelum, and I watched its course for some time before it +arrived. It subsequently struck the edge of the house and I was all +right; had it come down the valley which runs at right angles to the +Jhelum just opposite here I should have been blown out. I again noticed +that to which my attention has often been directed, viz.: that when in +or near the storm clouds, the thunder is of quite a different character +to that heard below. It is a continuous low muttering growl without any +claps or peals. I have stood in the storm cloud at Sinchal, 9,000 feet +high, with the lightning originating around me and affording the +sublimest spectacle of dazzling brilliancy, and varying in colour from +the purest white light to delicious rose and blue tints. I have seen it +intensified and focussed as it were within a few feet of me, and from +this centre angled lines and balls of fire like strings of beads +radiated in all directions. Yet the thunder which in the plains was +heard pealing and roaring its loudest, was up there barely audible. + + +JULY 13th.--From Kunda to Kuthin twelve miles of hard toiling over a +similar road to that of the last march, finishing with a long, steep, +and very rough ascent to the high plateau on which Kuthin stands. On the +top of this I took to my dandy and was carried a mile along the level to +the Barahduree, where I slept upon the charpoy which is provided at +every bungalow for the weary travellers to rest upon pending the arrival +of his baggage. These plateaus or table lands exist at intervals all the +way up the valley, sometimes on one side sometimes on the other and +occasionally on both the river in the middle. They are quite flat, very +small, and highly productive, and vary from fifty to three or four +hundred feet in height, above the river. The valley which widens where +they exist, is narrowed again at either extremity. I can only account +for their formation by supposing that at a former time, a chain of lakes +existed, of which they are the beds, and that the water subsequently +burst through and formed the channel of the present Jhelum, leaving +these beds dry as we now see them. Came across a number of large tailed +butterflies of a lovely green and blue metallic lustre. Secured an +un-injured specimen, and for want of a better place stuck it inside my +topee, where I expect to carry it safely until my return to Peshawur. +Another storm came on earlier than yesterday. I have been very lucky +hitherto, not having had a drop of rain while marching. This morning was +cloudy till within a mile or two of Kuthin when the sun shone and made +the last ascent doubly trying. This is a very small village (at Kunda +there was only one hut) but there is a mud fort with bastions at each +corner but no guns. The walls are loop-holed for musketry, but there +does not seem to be any garrison. On making enquiries, I find there is a +garrison of seven men. It is getting dusk and mosquitoes are coming out +by hundreds, they have not annoyed me before, but I think I must use my +net to-night. I lie on my bed after dinner smoking with a lighted candle +by my side. A hornet flies in and settles on my hand, then a large +beetle comes with a buzz and a thud against me, making me start. Sundry +moths, small flies, and beetles, are playing innocently round the flame. +In half an hour I shall be able to make a fair entomological collection +but as I neither (Ha! I've killed the hornet) desire them in my hat +dead, nor in my bed alive, I must put out the light, give up writing, +and smoke in darkness. + + +JULY 14th.--To Shadera, twelve miles walked all the way. The road worse +than ever, and for the last mile actually dangerous, as it passed along +the edge of a deep precipice, and was only a foot wide and considerably +out of the horizontal, so that a single false step would have been +fatal. Road continued same character all the way along, though much +above the tortuous and noisy Jhelum, and its ups and downs were the +roughest, longest, and most trying, I have yet experienced. I am pleased +to know that the remaining two marches will be, in the words of my +Coolies over "uch'-cha rasta," a good road. It remained cloudy and +threatening the greater part of the way, and a little rain fell, but +eventually the sun shone, though great masses of "cumuli" continue to +hang about. This is a small village completely shut in by three huge +hills standing very close together. Between the sides of the two in +front, the summit of a fourth is visible, a magnificent towering +mountain, covered with a dense pine forest. I have not seen the snows +since I crossed the Doobbullee pass, as we have been ascending the +valley of the Jhelum ever since, and the view is confined by its lofty +sides. I have eaten my last loaf for breakfast this morning, and now one +of the greatest privations of the journey will begin. No bread, nothing +but flour and water made into a kind of pancake, which the natives call +"chepattie." I have not tasted fresh meat since I left Abbottabad, but +that one can do very well without. I live upon fowls, eggs, milk, butter +and rice, with a tongue or hump, cooked when necessary. Two or three +miles from Kuthai, we passed a very pretty waterfall. The slender stream +fell over a smooth perpendicular rock, of a rich brown colour, 100 feet +high, like a thread of silver. Both sides of the gorge covered with a +variety of beautifully green trees, shrubs and ferns, altogether +constituting a delightful picture, the tints mingled so harmoniously, +yet with strong contrasts. Stopped at the Barahduree as usual, this one +surrounded with wild fig, plum, peach, pomegranate, and mulberry trees. +The mulberries only ripe, and like all wild fruit, small and +comparatively tasteless. + + +JULY 15th.--Started as soon as it was light for Gingle, fourteen miles +distant. Road greatly improved, hilly of course, but tolerably smooth so +that one could get on without clambering. About half way passed Dorie on +the left bank of the river, where there is another fort and a strong +rope bridge, it is one of the halts on the Murree road, farther on came +to an old ruin, four thick walls perforated by arches enclosing an open +square in the middle of two of the sides, large masses of masonry formed +archways or entrances. It is built of the rough stones and boulders with +which the surface of the ground is covered, yet the arches are of very +good shape. On the opposite bank of the Jhelum there are forests of +Deodar, but though they grow down to the waters edge, there is not one +on this side. (Larix Deodora, called by the Hindoos, "the God Tree" is a +stately pine, growing to a great height, and of a very gradual and +elegant taper. Its foliage is of the darkest green colour, and it gives +the mountains a very sombre appearance.) The hills have become much more +rugged and abrupt. I know of no single condition which gives a scene so +great an aspect of wildness and desolation, as dead fir trees. There +they stand on the most barren and inaccessible places, rearing their +gaunt and whitened forms erect as ever, and though lifeless yet not +decayed. Seared and blasted by a thousand storms, they stand stern and +silent, ghostlike and immoveable, scorning the elements. No wind murmurs +pleasantly through their dead and shrunken branches, the howling tempest +alone can make them speak, and then with wild straining shriek and harsh +rattle, they do battle with the whirlwind. It was getting hot and I was +thinking of my dandy, when a storm passed over with heavy rain. This was +a mitigated evil (if an evil at all for my bed remained dry, and a wet +bed is the worst result of a shower) as it rendered walking cool and +pleasant. It cleared up again, and I rode the last half mile. The +cleanest and best bungalow here I have been in since I left Ghuri. The +view down the valley is extremely pretty, hills rising one above the +other, but shut in on all other sides by high mountains. Gingle, which +is only one or two huts, stands on a small plateau a quarter of a mile +long by one hundred and fifty yards wide, fifty feet above the Jhelum. +The ground is laid out in paddy fields irrigated by a stream of the +coolest and purest water. It is a great satisfaction to be able to drink +water freely without fear. In the plains of India the water is so +contaminated as to be almost poisonous, and I do not think that previous +to this march I had drank a gallon of it since I landed in Calcutta. + + +JULY 16th.--Left Gingle with the earliest streak of dawn for Baramula, +an eighteen mile march. Road very much more level, never ascending high +above the river whose erratic course we continued to follow. Passed +through groves of hazel overrun by wild vines, but both grapes and nuts +as yet green. The plateaus become gradually larger and almost +continuous, and the hills separated and diminished in size, those on the +right being covered with the lank deodar, while those on the left +possessed only a bright green mantle of grass, far away in front they +altogether ended, and the open sky above the valley was alone visible. +And now an unusual occurrence presented itself. We were following the +stream upwards towards its source, yet at every mile it increased in +width and became more placid, till at length its surface was unbroken, +and it assumed the form of a magnificent river, wider than the Thames at +Richmond. The hills continued provokingly to overlap one another as +though anxious to shut in and hide the happy valley from sight. But at +length I discerned a far distant white cloud which I guessed betokened +the summit of a mountain, and a few yards further revealed a faint +glistening opaque line which the inexperienced eye would have certainly +taken for a portion of the cloud, but which could not be mistaken by one +who had before seen the snows. About half a mile from Buramula we +obtain the first view of the Vale of Kashmir, but not an extensive one, +as it is obstructed on either side by low hills. However, what is seen +is very pretty. A large level plain traversed by a broad smooth river +which has now lost its tortuous zig-zag course and bounded by the +everlasting snows covering the main backbone of the Himalayas. At the +head of the valley stands the quaint looking town of Baramula surrounded +by hills on all sides but one, embowered in trees and intersected by the +Jhelum, across which there is a good wooden bridge. The houses have +mostly an upper story, and are built of wood with gabled roofs. The +streets are narrow and roughly paved, and I regret to say are not more +pleasant to the nostrils than are those of other Indian towns. The +bridge built of deodar wood, beams of which are driven into the bed of +the river, and then others laid horizontally upon them, each row at +right angles to and projecting beyond the layer beneath, till a +sufficient height has been reached, six of these and two stone piers +form the buttresses of the bridge and a broad pathway of planks connects +them. The march was a fatiguing one on account of its length, and I used +the dandy freely. I shall however discard it altogether for the future. +I went to the Barahduree but found it occupied by a man whose name I was +told was "----," had been there five days. His Coolies had taken +possession of all the rooms, and though I was very angry and inclined to +turn them out, I thought my tent would be preferable to a room just +vacated by the uncleanly native, so I went to an orchard close by, +surrounded by a row of fine poplars, and patiently awaited the arrival +of my baggage which was a long time coming. The gate was guarded by the +Maharajah's sepoys who endeavoured to prevent my entrance. The Thikadar +told me he had no authority for this, but had done it "Zubbur-dustee." +They also say that the occupant of the Barahduree has just come from +England. He is a being shrouded in mystery, and I shall endeavour to +unravel it. My first step will be to report the occurrence to the +officials at S---- when I get there. I took a swim in the Jhelum, whose +course I have now followed for eighty-four crooked miles, and on whose +bosom I shall to-morrow continue my journey. + + +JULY 17th.--By boat up the river, the day so bright, the view so +glorious, the breeze so balmy and delicious, and the motion so gentle +and pleasant, that lying on my bed I devote myself to lazy listlessness, +to a perfect sense of the "dolce far niente" and can hardly prevail on +myself to disturb my tranquillity by writing these few notes. The +contrast to my thirteen heavy marches is so great that I am content to +remain for the present without thought or action, enjoying absolute +rest. Evening--We halt at Sopoor, and now let me endeavour to continue +the diary. Got up at seven this morning and sent for a boat, one of the +larger kind about thirty feet long, and six feet broad in the middle, +the centre portion covered with an awning made of grass matting. The +crew consisting of an entire family, from the elderly parents to quite +young children--9 in all. I was towed up the still widening river by all +of them in turns, one wee girl not three feet high being most energetic, +though I should think of little real service. Boat flat bottomed, and +alike at both ends, they use paddles instead of oars. But the scene! I +am unable now to do justice to it, so I will only give the outlines to +be elaborated hereafter. Splendid river--verdant plain covered with many +varieties of trees, poplar and chenar or tulip tree the most +conspicuous, extending as far as the eye can reach and enclosed by lofty +snow capped mountains, on which rest the clouds of heaven. Bright blue +King-fishers darting like flashes of light or hovering hawk-like before +the plunge after fish and the many hued dragon flies upon the water +weeds. Among the several varieties of the weeds, I noticed a great +quantity of "Anacharis." Got fresh mutton and apple-pie for dinner. +Swarms of very minute flies came to the candle dancing their dance of +death. Many thousands were destroyed, and their bodies darkened the +board which serves me for a table. Sopoor like Baramula, river bridged, +and grass growing on the roofs of the houses. + + +JULY 18th.--In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was +awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended +to ascend, and get a _coup d'oeil_ of the valley. Instead of being on a +river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the +largest in Kashmir. Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half +way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not +mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of +the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great +portion of the view. Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I +shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which +rise very near the water. We are thirty miles from Baramula. The lake is +in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes +it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a +curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft +delicately flavoured kernel--heart-shaped, as big as a filbert. +Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their +crimson feast. Alsoo--a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains. +Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water. + + +JULY 19th, Sunday.--On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left +my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and +only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only +four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work. +For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above +Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with +butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would +"keep master cool." As we rose--the vale spread out magnificently +beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under +the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain. +Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks +covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its +surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well +rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main +valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains, +spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its +many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air +laden with the perfume of many flowers. My Bheisties even exclaimed +"bahut ach chtu." I gazed entranced. The descent was long but a much +better path. Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were +as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a +small yellow plum which was very nice. Arrived at Lalpore the principal +village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very +common) covered with its nuts. This valley abounds with bears, I was +certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to +the ascent being less steep and the path shady. Saw a magnificent +butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but +like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at +the very moment I thought I had secured it. Got a fine one of a commoner +sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured. + + +JULY 20th.--I halt at Salpore, awaiting the arrival of my Sirdar dandy +coolie, an intelligent, useful, Kashmiree man, whom I engaged to +continue with me as a servant at Baramula, and gave him four days leave +to visit his home, arranging that he should rejoin me here. I lie under +the shade of the wide spreading walnut trees, inhaling the fragrant +breeze, and enjoying perfect quietude and repose. All is so grand and +peaceful, that my heart swells with holy thoughts of praise and +gratitude to the Almighty Creator, and while gazing on one of the +fairest portions of his great work I find myself unconsciously repeating +the glorious psalm "O come let us sing unto the Lord." It would indeed +be a hard heart and a dull spirit that did not rejoice in the scene, and +acknowledge the power and magnificence of its maker. I see around me +this garden of Kashmir where every tree bears fruit for the use of man, +and every shrub, bright flowers for his enjoyment. Enclosed and guarded +by "the strength of the hills" (a noble sentence which never never +before so forcibly impressed me) and covered by the purest of blue +skies. All nature seems to say to me "To-day if ye hear his voice, +harden not your hearts," and surely the "still small voice" is speaking, +and can be heard by those who will heed it, and have the heart to feel +and the soul to rejoice in the strength of their salvation. The memory +of the beautiful duett in "Haydn's Creation," when newly made Adam and +Eve unite in praising God and extolling his wonderful works comes +freshly before me. Now, something akin to this must have crossed the +mental vision of the grand old Maestro when he wrote; and its calm +glorious music well accords with my present state of mind. + + +JULY 21st.--A pleasant stroll of ten miles before breakfast to +Koomerial along the level valley, through shady groves of apple, pear, +green-gage, peach, and mulberry trees, and forests of cherry trees +drooping with the weight of their golden blushing fruit. I have not seen +any vines in the Solab. Koomerial is a very small place, and I had a +little difficulty in getting supplies. I ought to have gone three miles +further to a large village; but I'll go there to-morrow, and then return +to Alsoo in two marches. A native came to me with the toothache, begging +assistance, but the tooth required extracting and I could do nothing for +him. Pitched under a walnut tope--the climate delicious, like a warm +English summer, but it is rather hot in my small tent in the middle of +the day; so I have my Charpoy put outside in the shade and lie there +smoking my pipe and thinking. I have spoken of the beauties and +pleasures of the Solab, but I must not omit mention of its annoyances, +flies and mosquitoes, by day the flies abound and cause much irritation +to any exposed part of the body. I do hate tame flies, flies that though +driven away twenty times elude capture, and will pertinaciously return +to the same spot--say your nose--until one is driven nearly mad with +vexation. At dusk the flies return to roost, and then myriads of +mosquitoes emerge from their hiding places, and make night hideous with +their monotonous hum and blood-thirsty propensities. I do not find +chepatties so bad as I expected, indeed I rather like them, but then my +boy makes them excellently well, using soda in their composition. The +process of manufacture is not pleasant--the flour is made into a paste, +and then flattened and consolidated by being thrown backwards and +forwards from one hand to the other, though one may avoid seeing this, +it is difficult to escape hearing the pit-pat of the soft dough as it +passes rapidly between the Khitmutgars extended, and I fear not always +clean fingers, it is then toasted, brought in hot, and you may eat it +dirt and all. But travellers must not be too particular, and so long as +your food is wholesome, eat and be thankful. But here comes my dinner, +with the chepatties I have just seen prepared, and which sight suggested +the foregoing lines. Chicken for breakfast, chicken for dinner, chicken +yesterday, chicken to-morrow, _toujours_ chicken, sometimes curried, +sometimes roasted, torn asunder and made into soup, stew or cutlets, or +with extended wing forming the elegant spatchcock, it is still chicken; +the greatest and rarest change being that it is occasionally rather +tender. I have had chicken soup and roast fowl for dinner, the chicken +in the soup as stringy as hemp, the fowl as tough as my sandal, and with +so large a liver that I doubted whether the bird had not met with a +violent death. I like fowl's liver, it is my one _bonne bouche_ during +the day, but these startled me, and after straining my teeth on the +carcase, I gladly swallow the soft mouthful. Oh! English readers, you +who have never wandered far from your native shores and who esteem +chickens a luxury to put on your supper table at your festive +gatherings, come to India and surfeit on your dainties, you will see it +calmly collecting its daily food unsuspicious of danger, then comes the +rush and loud clacking as it flies pursued by the ferocious native, +ending with cries of despair and the fluttering and hoarse gurgle of its +death throes, in half an hour Murghi will be placed before you hot and +tempting to the eye but hard as nails to the touch; they are cheap in +this part of the world. I pay one anna (or three halfpence) for a +chicken, or two annas for a full grown fowl. + + +JULY 22nd.--A little march of three miles to Koopwaddie. I am glad I +came here for one or two reasons. In the first place the walk afforded +me a nearer and finer view of the head of the valley, surmounted by its +high and rugged snow peaks; and secondly, I find I can return from here +to Sopoor in two marches instead of going back over the old road. From +Sopoor I shall boat to Alsoo. The range which at Lalpore was on the +further side of the valley has gradually approached the other hills +until now they are only a quarter of a mile apart, and are connected by +short low spurs which I crossed this morning. My road to-morrow will be +behind the first mentioned range, where another portion of the valley +lies. The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous +ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles. The two +portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie +is situated at their junction. The Solab proper is only the eastern arm +which is formed into a _cul de sac_ by the mountains, and in which +Lalpore stands. + + +JULY 23rd.--To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley +rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab. Over a low range of +hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of +the Pohroo river. Not finding a good place on that side I forded the +river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth +green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank. Fine view from the +top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with +the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance. This plain is laid +out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages. +The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are +to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds. + + +JULY 24th.--A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed +and uninteresting road to Sopoor. There were but few trees to afford any +shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you +know it is impossible to sit down. From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles) +by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water +lilies. At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my +breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a +procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something +surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see +what it was. It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no +doubt very holy. A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting +loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not +unpleasing melody. They were praying for rain which is rare in this +country, and which is now required for the crops. My boy returned +bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton. Stopped at +Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed. +Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very +cranky. + + +JULY 25th.--Started early for Alsoo. Found my old boat where I had left +it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep +to, as the boatman is a much more useful fellow than the other man. He +acts as a servant, knows all the places I am going to, including +Ummernath, and has many excellent characters from those who have +employed him. There was such a scene when my intentions were made known +to the other crew, at first with tears and folded hands they +supplicated, but when that proved useless they took to cursing and +gesticulating, which they continued as their boat moved away and so long +as they were within hearing, screaming across the water, making faces, +and shaking their fists aloft; the old man was especially violent, it +was very laughable. My present crew consists of the man I have +mentioned, three good looking young woman, one of whom has the hooping +cough, and a variety of children I have not yet made out the different +relations to each other. There was lightning and some heavy rain last +night (the result no doubt of yesterday's ceremony) and the sky is still +gloomy and overcast. On from Alsoo after Chota Hazree or first breakfast +to Lunka, a small island, which is only fifty yards square, is thickly +covered with pine trees, with trailing grape vines clinging around their +boughs, on it stands an old ruin, and fallen pillars and carved stones +litter the ground. From a distance it looked very lovely, floating as +it were on the bosom of the open waters, but as we neared it an +unpleasant odour became perceptible, rapidly increasing to a horrid +stench. This proceeded from a colony of natives who were in temporary +habitation of the island, and were engaged in catching and drying the +fish with which the lake abounds. I landed however, but was soon forced +to beat a rapid retreat. Such a mass of all kinds of filth crowded in so +small a space, I have never before witnessed. Man is ever the plague +spot of the world, where he is not, all is peace, and beauty, with his +presence comes contamination and discord. Saw many a whistling seal in +one part of the lake. The water soon became contracted into a narrow +channel, with a low bank on either side, after travelling a few miles +more we reached the broad Jhelum above its entrance into the lake. +Remained for the night at Hajun. + + +JULY 26th, Sunday.--Moved on in the morning to Manusbul, a small lake +connected with the river by a canal. This lake is about three miles long +and one mile wide, it is very deep in the middle, and said by the +natives to be unfathomable. In one of the Hindoo Legends we are told a +story of a holy man who spent all his life endeavouring to make a rope +long enough to reach to the bottom, and failing, at length threw +himself in and was never seen again. My boatman to give me an idea of +its depth, dropped in white pebbles which could be seen for a long time +sinking in the clear green water, until they gradually disappeared from +sight. I longed to take a plunge into the cool fluid, and Ungoo +evidently read my wish in my looks, for he proposed that I should gussul +or bathe. The presence of three women however proved too much for my +modesty, and I refrained, although I have no doubt that had I not done +so their feelings would not have been in the least outraged. Very +handsome water lilies (lotus) on the surface of the lake, the flowers +being of a delicate pink colour with a yellow centre, and as large as +the crown of a man's hat. At the further extremity, a high hill rises +from the edge of the water. A stream is artificially conducted along its +face at a height of about fifty feet, and the surplus water escapes in +several pretty little cascades, by the side of one of them grow some +noble chenars. The bottom of the lake around the edges is very uneven, +and covered with a dense growth of mynophillum spicatum, on which +planorbus and other molluces graze and tiny fry pick their invisible +atoms of food. The elegant shape of this plant with its branching and +finely cut leaves, and the inequalities of the ground remind me of the +pine-clad hills in miniature. A brilliant king-fisher took the gunwale +of the boat as the "base of his operations," and I amused myself all the +morning, by watching him catch fish; when one approached the surface he +descended with a splash which I imagined would have driven every fish +far away, emerging quickly and very seldom without a capture, which he +turned head downwards and swallowed alive and whole, then looked round +with a laughable air of self-satisfaction. When the fish was a size too +large to be trifled with, he first polished it off by rapping its head +on the boards. It is now sunset, and that bird is still feeding, and +probably the day will end without deciding whether his appetite or his +capacity is the larger. A native brought me a dish of excellent +apricots and mulberries--the mulberries especially good, and my garden +is celebrated for the best peaches in Kashmir. + + +JULY 27th.--Up the Jhelum again, past Sumbul with its deodar bridge +(similar to the others described with this exception, that the footway +appears to be built in imitation of the roof of a house sloping on +either side from a high central ridge, not the best form of bridge I +have seen, but variety is charming) to the entrance of the Scind river, +where a chenar stands in the middle of the stream, protected by a square +block of masonry. Tradition says this tree never grows. Near it is a +small island over grown with trees. Here we left the Jhelum and pursued +the course of the Scind which soon contracted into a narrow and rapidly +flowing river, its water derived from the snows, being very cold. It was +slow work rowing against the strong current, but we presently emerged +into a great lake entirely covered with high rushes except where a +winding channel was cut for the boats, and here progression was slower +still as the rope had to be abandoned, and the pole called into +requisition, so that it was nearly dark when we reached Ganderbul. +Passed a number of men wading in the water up to their necks, and +spearing the ground with poles armed with a single barbed spike. +Although this seems an insane way of attempting to catch fish, their +boat was well laden with a small species of trout, and I saw several +drawn from the water impaled and wriggling upon the sharp point. +Sreenuggur seen in the distance at the extremity of a mountainous spur, +with the Fort and Soloman's Throne, standing upon two elevated rocks. +Within a few miles of Ganderbul the lake became clear, and presented a +fine expanse of water, but with so many shallows, that our course was +very tortuous. Having travelled twenty miles, we are now only five miles +from Manusbul. Ganderbul stands at the opening of the Scind valley, but +it was too late to take any observations when I arrived; so I must wait +until my return. + + +JULY 28th.--A march of nine miles up the valley to Kungan, taking with +me as before only four coolie loads of baggage; my boatman accompanies +me. Met Scott, of the 88th, three or four miles from Ganderbul, the +first European I have seen since the 12th. This is a narrow and +beautiful valley, down which the Scind river rushes foaming and roaring. +Its waters are icy cold and its colour also seems to partake of its +snowy origin, for it is white, not only with foam, but the water itself +in small quantities is as though it had come out of a milky jug. Grand +hills stand on either side, and up the valley I occasionally got +glimpses of high and rugged snow peaks. Several natives came to me with +different ailments, I gave them rough directions whereby to benefit, but +what they wanted was a gift of medicine (of which I have none.) They +fancy every Englishman is an adept in the art of healing, and that +English physic especially Tyrnhill's Pills, possesses magical powers. + + +JULY 29th.--To Toomoo, six miles, a shorter march than I intended, for +they told me at Kungan that Toomoo was twelve miles distant. However, +when I arrived, the temptation to stop was too strong to be resisted. In +marching one gets very weary about the sixth or seventh mile, but this +passes off, and you can then go on comfortably for almost any distance, +provided you resist the first feelings of fatigue, and do not give way +to it, as I have done to-day. The mountains are now huge towering +masses, rising thousands of feet above the valley; they have lost all +smoothness of outline, and their upper portions are bare and rough, +cragged, and pine clad. Instead of having merely whitened peaks, snow +fields extend down the sides. The scene is one of wild majestic +grandeur. What tremendous agonies in past ages must have been employed +to produce such vast upheavals. One cannot help contemplating with awe +the possibility of the world again becoming violently rent and shaken +to its foundations by the forces which though now comparatively inert, +still exist beneath us and occasionally give sad proof of their +undiminished power. In the present day the slow but continued action of +this subterranean power is in some parts perceptible (as in South +America) and we have no guarantee that it may not suddenly acquire +increased energy, and overwhelm our fairest lands with a run too +terrible to be imagined. Stinging nettles abound here, of the tall sort +that grow so rankly on old earth heaps and in dry ditches. I placed my +hand among them, delighted to be stung again by English friends; the +sensation is so far preferable to mosquito bites. Besides it took me +back to "childhood's happy hours," when with bramble torn breeches and +urticarious shin, I forced the hedges, apple stealing--I have stolen +apples to-day for a tart which is now baking--robbed the trees of them +for they are no man's property. Just above here on the other side of the +valley is a very perfect crater (of course extinct) for there are now no +volcanoes in the Himalayas. Its lips are rugged and serrated like the +teeth of a saw, and form a very perfect circle I cannot tell the depth +of the basin, but on the further side I can see that the edge rises +perpendicularly to a considerable height, and at the bottom of it I just +got a glimpse of a steeply sloping floor. On its exterior are deep +grooves containing strong blocks, which at this distance appear to show +by contrast of colour their igneous origin, but I cannot speak +positively on this point. My Bheistie to whom I gave three days leave to +visit his family, came in saying he had walked one hundred miles. He +does not look any the worse for it. + + +JULY 30th.--Another short march of five miles to Soorapra, a small +village around which stand several enormous hills, half obscured by +clouds, for it is a thoroughly wet day, drizzling rain having fallen +ever since my arrival. It is very cool and pleasant, but I have got up +too far and am now in the rainy region, so to-morrow I shall retrace my +steps, three or four marches would take me over the Himalayas into +Ladâk. This would be an interesting trip, but there still remains much +for me to see in Kashmir, and I have not time to do both. Passed +another, but smaller and less perfect crater. Some natives brought a +young black bear, which they had just caught to show me. It was no +larger than a good-sized dog, but had very long sharp claws; its +expression was anything but ferocious. A dense pine and walnut forest +extends down one of the hills to the verge of the village. I was +strolling in that direction, not a hundred yards from the huts--before +the arrival of my baggage--when two men ran after me and begged me to +come back on account of the number of tigers there. I imagined they +meant leopards, but on making enquiries I find cows are carried away, +which could not be done by leopards. This would be a good ground for the +sportsman, but no Europeans come here as it is off the regular track up +the valley. I crossed the river this morning by a ricketty bridge built +of a couple of firs, on which logs were loosely laid, leaving the main +road which runs along the other or right bank. Just behind my tent a +stream of deliciously cold and transparent water issues from the hill +side; a rough sort of shed is erected over it, and the water is +conducted a short distance in a wooden trough, from the end of which it +falls to the ground. It is the custom in Kashmir to build over the +springs and esteem them holy. No mosquitoes up here, delightful prospect +of a good night's rest. + + +JULY 31st.--Back to Kungan in one march, but did not encamp on the same +ground as before, as I found a better place by the side of the river. I +have been thinking all the morning about my future career, whether I +shall obtain the appointment in the Guards that I have applied for, (my +application has by this time reached England) if not, what will they do +with me when I get home, or shall I remain in the army? These questions +have been running in my head and occasionally a more delicate one +obtruded. Shall I marry, and if so, when and whom, and here, where all +my thoughts are revealed, I must needs confess that now at twenty-nine +years of age, I begin to weary of single blessedness, and long for a +fair, loving, and loveable companion. Now my gentle lady reader, here is +a chance for you, if you are content with honest love without adoration, +faithfulness without romance; for my romantic days have passed. I have +learnt the sober realities of life, and among them the truth of God's +declaration that it is not good for man to be alone. The _Saturday +Review_ in recent articles, "The Girl of the Period, &c.," holds out a +poor prospect for the would be benedict, and I fear there is much truth +in the assertion that the majority of our young women are husband +hunting, that they make matrimony their one great object, and will +condescend to any means whereby to attain the personal independance +given them by that position, that these marriages without love, only +prompted by selfish considerations, are followed by a total neglect of +all wifely duties--nay more, that even maternal care and tenderness have +nearly ceased to exist. It is a sad picture, and sternly drawn. The +well-known power of the paper is put forth in its highest degree, and +withering sarcasm, and bitter contempt accompany its stern reproofs. +Yet there is a final wail of despair at the unlikelihood of any change +for good being effected. This evil like most others is of our own +making. We men no longer marry while young, but when middle-aged or with +grey hairs beginning to show, a man desires a wife, he will most likely +choose one five and twenty years his junior. The girl often marry thus +because she cannot get a husband of her own age, and a very few years +lost will doom her to perpetual spinsterhood. It is necessarily a +marriage without love, a lucky one if there be respect. Girls have +learnt that it is useless to bestow their affections where nature would +have them, and and it is scarcely a matter for surprise that they +should in consequence endeavour to repress them altogether. Moral for my +own use. Marry while I am young, or not at all. + + +AUGUST 1st.--To Wangut nine miles rough and hilly walking. I lost the +path once, and had a long scramble before I regained it. Though not a +pleasant march the scenery is very fine and picturesque. Wangut lies up +a short and contracted valley, an offshoot of the Scind which is a much +larger one, and the mountains around it are very grand especially at the +head of the valley, I put up large coveys of grey partridge on the road. +I have come here for the purpose of visiting some mines two miles +further on, and I intend to halt to-morrow and walk to see them. There +is a great row going on while I write this, the natives appear unwilling +to furnish supplies (milk, eggs, &c.,) and my boatman who has +accompanied me is applying his stick freely by way of persuasion. There +is of course a Babel of tongues and I sit within a few yards, quietly +ignoring the proceeding, though if necessary, I shall get up and add +some lusty whacks as my share of the argument. A mountain torrent--a +tributary of the Scind runs down the valley with the usual noise and +hurly burly. A travelling native carpenter is here, and all the village +are bringing their ploughs to be mended, he is very clever with his +hoe-shaped hatchet fashioning the hard walnut wood so correctly with it, +that the chisel is hardly necessary for the few finishing touches. I +have seen him make some wooden ladles very rapidly, and he has provided +me with a new set of tent pegs and mallet and a wooden roller, by means +of which I hope to avoid the digital process in the manufacture of my +chepatties. + + +AUGUST 2nd, Sunday.--Sitting having my feet washed by a servant +(delightful sensation) after my return from the ruin of Rajdainbul and +Nagbul. I meditate on the mutability of all things human. I have taken a +walk before breakfast this Sabbath morning to witness the overthrow of +former magnificence and the destruction of man's crafty handiwork. These +two temples erected many long years ago in honour of a Hindoo Deity +named Naranay, now stand desolate piles in the dense jungle. Fallen +stones cover the ground and great trees grow from the interstices of +those that still hold together and retain a semblance of their original +shape. Confusion reigns supreme and the place that was once the scene of +mistaken worship, is now only the haunt of the wild beast and deadly +reptile. The thoughts which such a sight suggest, have been the theme of +many a moralist, but the great lesson it teaches cannot lose any of its +importance by repetition. Yet a consideration of the littleness of man +and the utter vanity of his proudest works is, I fear, distasteful to +most of us; we cannot bear to be forced to admit our own insignificance. +We go to church and cry "what is man that Thou art mindful of him," but +the words are but empty sounds. Our preachers may tell us that life is +but a shadow, but they speak to unwilling and heedless ears, and we go +on ignoring the fact, crying peace, and stifling our conscience by a +form of religion without godliness. We are arrogant, high-minded, puffed +up in our own conceit, and though there are many that would wish to be +considered holy, how few there are that are humble men of heart, and +time continues to repeat the old, old story, filling our grave-yards, +destroying our works; creation alone remaining stable, waiting for the +end. These ruins are small in size, and their architecture rude, though +the individual blocks are certainly large and well though not +elaborately carved. But they produce a strange impression of awe by the +dreary solitude and wildness of their position which is perhaps peculiar +to themselves, although they lack both the fairy elegance of Netley +Abbey, and the massive grandeur of a Pevensey Castle. The men who +accompanied me advanced very cautiously through the thick underwood, +beating with their sticks in order to drive away the Iguana Lizards, +which they call the "bis cobra" and hold in deadly fear, believing its +bite to be most surely fatal. This belief is universal among the natives +of India, but there is no proof of its truth, and I need hardly say that +the dental arrangement of Bactrachian reptiles is incompatible with the +possession of poisonous qualities. But though science will not admit it, +it is strange that the idea is so widely spread, especially as the +natives do not fear any other species of lizard, while they believe that +every snake is armed with the fatal fang. + + +AUGUST 3rd.--Heavy rain prevented my departure from Wangut, at the usual +early hour, but about 9 o'clock it cleared up, and I marched on Arric +eight miles distant down a path on the right bank of the river, (I +ascended the valley on the other side.) The rain has made it very +slippery, and it was a fatiguing walk the road not being good, and +occasionally dangerous; one part fairly beat me, I was expected to pass +round a smooth rock by means of several ledges one inch wide and four or +five long, cut on its surface. The precipice below was deep, and when I +had taken one step, and found myself hanging over it; I determined to go +back and try another way. The other way is bad enough, but all I object +to is having my safety depending upon a single foothold. I like to have +at least one chance of recovering myself if I slip. My walnut tree +to-day is covered with mistletoe and my mind is directed to Christmas +time, and all its (to us) sad associations. Three Christmases have I +spent away from England, and a fourth is now approaching, one of them on +the ocean, and two in the tented field, the next will I fancy also find +me under canvass, but I trust on my way homewards. Westward Ho! is my +cry; let the gorgeous East with its money bags, its luxuries, and its +many hours of idleness, remain for those who are content to exchange +home-ties and the enjoyment of life for dreary exile and too often +untimely death, who will sell their minds and bodies for the price of +rupees. + + +AUGUST 4th.--Marched back to Ganderbul, nine miles. Ganderbul is a very +small place, and the only object of interest I noticed, was a very old +bridge built of rough stones, standing now upon dry land, for the Scind +has left its former channel and runs one hundred yards to to the south +of it, three of the arches remain entire and connected, and at least +twelve others are either decayed or destroyed. This bridge is evidently +of very ancient date. On emerging from the Scind valley, I got a better +view of the vale than I have before had. It was a clear but cloudy +morning--one of those grey days when rays abound, and photographic +efforts are most successful--and every distant object was seen with +great distinctness. The snowy Pin Punjaul range, in its southern +boundary looked magnificent, rising abruptly from the level and +beautiful plain. On board the boat again, I continued the journey +towards Srenuggur. We had not been long afloat before a sudden squall +came down from the hills and blew the roof of the boat off; it took a +long time to repair the mischief, but fortunately all the matting was +blown on to the bank, it was eventually replaced and we proceeded +onwards in a tolerably direct line to the capital, ten miles distant. +But near sunset the wind increased again, and compelled us to take +refuge in a sheltered nook within a mile or two of Srenuggur, the fort +standing above us on the summit of a hill--imposing from its apparently +impregnable position--and there we remained all night. + + +AUGUST 5th.--Starting early, I soon arrived at the outskirts of the +town, and the boat entered a canal with houses on both sides. There was +some delay at a lock and great excitement in pushing over the fall +caused by the rash of the water. Passed through the city which is a +large one, and encamped under chenars on the banks of the canal on the +other side. The Baboo-Mohu Chundee, an officer appointed by the +Maharajah to attend to the many and varying wants of European +visitors--called upon me and afterwards sent "russud" or a present from +the Maharajah consisting of tea, sugar, flour, butter, rice, salt, +spice, vegetables, a chicken, and a live sheep. Some cloth merchants +also came and I was led into extravagance in purchasing some of their +goods. In the afternoon I got a small boat, a miniature of the larger +one, propelled by six men with paddles. They took me along very quickly, +and I went down the canal which opens into the Jhelum--the main +thoroughfare of Suenaggur opposite to the palace and the adjoining +temple, whose dome is covered with plates of pure gold. It is a very +strange sight, the broad river covered with boats, and lined by houses +built in the curious Kashmirian style. Seven fine bridges cross it, and +on two of them stand rows of shops like our Old London Bridge. I first +went to the Post-office and got a satisfactory communication from our +Paymaster, and also a letter from Bill, giving me the sad tidings of +poor Tyrwhitt's death, which took place at Murree a fortnight after my +departure. It is a selfish consideration, but I cannot help feeling +grateful that he was prevented by an attack of ague from accompanying +me, as he intended. I then went to Sumnad Sha's, the great shawl +merchant, and turned some of the Paymaster's paper into silver currency. +He showed me his stock, and I wished that I possessed the means of +purchasing his goods. But even here a good shawl costs thirty or forty +pounds, very magnificent they are, but I need not describe that which +every English lady knows and longs for, if she has not it. Hewson, the +Paymaster at Chinsurah, is encamped within one hundred yards of me. +Passing in his boat he recognised me, and we went and had a swim and +talked over old times at the Depôt. + + +AUGUST 6th.--Bought some tackle and went fishing, but the hooks were +rotten and the fish broke several. I only succeeded in landing one trout +of nearly two pounds weight. The spoon bait is a favourite one here. +Bought a variety of stones and pebbles. Ladûk, Yarkund, Opals, Garnets, +&c., for making brooches, bracelets, and studs. I was a long while +making the selection and a long while bargaining, but I seem to have got +them cheap; at all events for less money than Hewson has paid for his. +This, and fishing, occupied the whole day--which was consequently an +uneventful one. In the evening I borrowed writing materials from Hewson, +and wrote a letter to Bell. + + +AUGUST 7th.--Went out spearing fish, but found it difficult in +consequence of the allowance necessary for the refraction of the water +and the movement of the fish. There is a great temptation to strike in +an apparently direct line with the fish, which I need hardly say, even +if the fish be stationary does not go near it. I only succeeded in +piercing two. But I afterwards went out with a spoon and very soon +landed a couple of trout of two and four pounds weight. I have found out +who was at Baramula ---- travelling quietly like a private gentleman, +still, notwithstanding the paucity of his retinue, the unmistakeable +stamp of nobility about him made it plain that he was more than he +appeared to be, obtaining for him the attention which he had wished to +ignore. As a contrast to him we have here X----, Y----, and Z----, +noticeable like many other Englishmen, when travelling in foreign +countries for the prodigality of their expenditure, one of whom got a +thrashing the other day from ----. Rather a disreputable affair for him, +if all I hear be true. I dare say many a poor native wishes that a small +portion of the money these three men waste was given to them instead. + + +AUGUST 8th.--I have done nothing to-day except go to Sumnad Shas for +some more money, as I intend to leave Sreenugger to-morrow for the +eastern part of Kashmir. There are two reasons for my idleness; in the +first place Hewson gave me some books he had done with, and I got +interested in James' "Heidelberg" and was reading it all this morning; +and secondly, Hewson left this afternoon and sat a long time with me +before his departure. To lengthen my notes for the day I ought to write +a sermon, or secular discourse, (as I have done before) but I don't feel +inclined to do so. This diary only gets my thoughts when they arise +spontaneously and require no further labour than the mere putting of +them into words. To-day my mind is a blank, and I am not going to search +in hidden recesses for thoughts that may possibly be secreted there. +Perhaps after dinner something may occur to me worth writing about. + + +AUGUST 9th, Sunday.--On again by the big boat up the Jhelum stopping at +Pampur for two hours fishing under the bridge (the reputed haunt of +large fish) but without success, so continued the journey gliding slowly +along the beautiful river until dark, when the boat was run ashore and +secured. So it has been an uneventful day with no new scenery to +describe and no musings to record. + + +AUGUST 10th.--Another day passed on the river. From early dawn till dusk +we continued towing against the stream, and then halted for the night at +Kitheryteen (I spell the word from my boatman's pronunciation of it) a +small village on the right bank. + + +AUGUST 11th.--Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara, +where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar +to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty +from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every +pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway, +between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains. +Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be +large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half +its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains +which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached +Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the +first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of +only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small +streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the +hills. + + +AUGUST 12th.--Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the +camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned +from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them +being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600 +feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity. +In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and +these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave, +but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too +cold up there. At Burven is a very holy spring. Two tanks are formed +where the water escapes from the ground, and these tanks swarm with tame +fish, some of them of large size. It was a great sight feeding them. +They all rushed to the place struggling and fighting for the food. The +bright green water was black with them, and a space yards wide and long, +and several feet thick, was occupied by a block of fish packed as +closely as if they were pickled herrings. These fish are also very +sacred, and to catch them is prohibited. Soon after leaving Kunbul I +passed through Islamabad, a large town of which I may have more to say +hereafter. There are two other men encamped here with me, but they don't +seem very sociable, and I don't care much for the society of strangers; +we have exchanged "good mornings" and that is all, and now sit staring +at each other at a distance of twenty yards. How different it would have +been if we were Frenchmen instead of cold-blooded Englishmen. After dark +the fakirs had a "tomasha." Singing, bell ringing, tambourine-beating, +and the blowing of discordant horns all at the same time, constituted a +delightful music--to them at least--and was continued for hours, +interrupted by shouting and yelling, and with this din going on I now +hope to sleep. + + +AUGUST 13th.--Marched back to Islamabad, seven miles, by another road, +as I first visited the ruins of Martund, a temple built (so the legend +goes) ages ago by "gin men" or demons of gigantic stature. These are +really grand ruins, whether position, site, or architecture be +considered. They stand on an open plain, on the summit of a ridge, from +which is a fine view of the surrounding mountains, which are much higher +than in the western part of Kashmir. In the centre is a large block, +containing several rooms, the huge stones of which it is built being +elaborately carved. There are many niches containing figures, but the +defacing hand of time has sadly marred them. On two sides of this +building and only a few feet distant from it rise a couple of wings, and +the whole is enclosed by a stone screen, perforated by trefoil arches, +and having on its inner side a row of fluted columns. In the middle of +the south side of the screens is the main entrance, the pillars of which +are very tall. Vigne, classes these ruins among the finest in the world, +and perhaps he is right. At Islamabad there are several bungalows +provided for visitors, and I went into one of them, having first +cleared it of the "fakirs"--who are here too. These bungalows stand by +tanks in which are tame fish, as at Burven. A spring issues from the +hill side, just above them. Two men of the 7th Hussars, Walker and +Verschoyle, occupied another, and I breakfasted with them. Adjoining the +tanks is a small pleasure garden, with some buildings which are +inhabited by the Maharajah when he visits Islamabad. The place reminds +me more of a tea garden in the New Road, than the resort of Royalty. The +water from the tanks escapes under the front bungalow forming a pretty +cascade. Dined and passed the evening with the other fellows. + + +AUGUST 14th.--To Atchebul, six miles. This is a charming spot. It is a +pavilion and garden built--if my memory serves me--by the Emperor Shah +Jehan, for his wife; at its upper end rises a hill covered with small +deodars and other trees, and from the foot of this hill four springs +gush forth from crevices in the rock. The volume of water is very large, +and it is conveyed into three tanks at different levels. These tanks are +connected by broad canals lined with stone, and at the extremity of each +canal is a fine waterfall. There are also two lateral canals which run +through the whole length of the gardens, from the boundary of which the +water escapes in three cascades, the centre one from the tanks being +the largest. In the middle tank are twenty-five fountains, which were +turned on for my benefit; only seventeen of them play, and the best jets +are not more than six feet high. In the centre of this tank stands a +pavilion which I now inhabit. Its walls are of wooden trellis work, and +the ceiling is divided into panels on which are painted in many colours +the everlasting shawl pattern; it looks as though the floor-cloth had +been placed on the ceiling by mistake. Along the foot of the hill is a +ruined terrace built of bricks, with arches and alcoves crumbling to +pieces. There is also an arch over the canal, between the second and +third tanks. The whole garden was originally laid out in several +terraces faced with masonry, and having wide flights of stone steps from +one to the other; but all is now much decayed, and the garden itself is +quite uncultivated, except a small portion, and is but a wilderness of +fruit trees and fine chenars. On the left of it is the old Human or +bath, a series of domed and arched rooms containing baths and marble +seats. The interior is in a fair state of preservation, and the various +pipes which conveyed the water to it still exist. The whole ground is +enclosed by a wall, and if it was properly looked after, might be +converted into a very pleasant retreat. In the afternoon Walker and +Verschoyle, rode over from Islamabad and sat some time with me, after a +few hours five other pipes began to squirt--rendered patulous I suppose +by the pressure of the water--so that three only now remain occluded. I +had a great loss last night; the dogs broke open the basket containing +my provisions, and carried away half a large sized cake, and a hump of +beef that had been cooked but was uncut. + + +AUGUST 15th.--Marched to Nowboog, fifteen miles, this long march was +quite unexpected as Ince in his book puts it down eight miles. It was up +hill nearly all the way--this combined with the sun's heat--for I did +not start so early as I would have done if I had known the distance--and +the vexation of having to go on, long after I considered the march +ought to have been finished, made it very fatiguing. Nowboog is situated +in a small and pretty valley separated by hills from the rest of +Kashmir. I intend to halt here to-morrow, so will reserve further +description until I feel fresh again. It was one or two o'clock before I +arrived, and I have worn a hole in my left heel which will, I fear, +render the next marches painful. Umjoo--the boatman--is now shampooing +my legs and feet. This process consists of violent squeezes and pinches +which make me inclined to cry out, but I am bearing it bravely without +flinching and endeavouring to look happy, and to persuade myself that it +is pleasant--now my toes are being pulled with a strength fit to tear +them off. Oh! ----. There's a cry on paper. He does not hear that, and +it is some sort of relief. + + +AUGUST 16th, Sunday.--The valley of Nowboog is small but very +picturesque. The surrounding hills are comparatively low, and are +covered with pasture on the open places, while the deodar and many other +trees occupy the ravines and gullies. The large amount of grass and the +grouping of the trees give it a park-like appearance, and the gentle +slopes of the verdant mountains remove all wildness from the scene. It +is a pleasant spot to halt at. A little nook which while it charms the +eye, only suggests peaceful laziness. My coolies sit at a short +distance, singing through their noses Kashmirian songs. There is much +more melody in their music than in that of their brethren of Hindoostan. +Indeed some of the tunes admit of being written, and I have copied a few +of the more rythmical, as they sang them. The principal objection to +them is that they are rather too short to bear repetition for half an +hour as is the custom, there is another music going on--a music that +cannot be written and will be difficult to describe--I mean the song of +the "Cicada Stridulantia" in walnut trees above me. This insect--the +balm cricket--is in appearance a burlesque, just such a house fly as you +might imagine would be introduced in a pantomime; and its cry is as +loud and incessant as it is peculiar. To describe it, fancy to begin +with a number of strange chirps, and that every few seconds, one of +those cogged wheels and spring toys that you buy at fairs to delude +people into the belief that their coats are being torn--is passed +rapidly down the back, with occasionally momentary interruption in the +middle of its course, while between each scratch you hear a mew of a +distant cat--another cat purring loudly all the time, and any number of +grasshoppers chirping to conclude with a running down of the most +impetuous and noisy alarum, and then silence--a silence almost painful +by contrast--until it begins again. Such is the song of the Cicada in +the Himalayan forests. I wonder every Sunday if they miss me at +Peshawur; for I was organist to the church before I left, and I doubt if +there is anybody to take my place. I wish I had the instrument here now +to peal forth to the hills and the wondering Kashmirians Handel's +sublime "Hallelujah Chorus" or "The Marvellous Works" of Haydn. What can +be more inspiring than the grand old church music we possess, bequeathed +to us by composers of immortal memory. Though much opposed to the +present Ritualistic tendencies I do delight in a musical service. It +seems to elevate the mind and give a greater depth to our devotion. Go +into any of our cathedrals and hear the solemn tones of the Liturgy +echoing through the vaulted roof, and your heart must needs join in the +supplication, "And when the glorious burst of music calls to praise and +rejoicing, will not your own soul fly heavenward with the sound and find +unaccustomed fervency in its thanksgivings." There is perhaps one thing +necessary, and that is, that you should know the music you hear, +otherwise the first admiration of its beauty may eclipse all other +considerations. But if you have studied it, if it is as familiar to you +as it ought to be, and is intimately connected in your mind with the +words to which it is set, you will understand its spirit, and see that +however beautiful it may be it is only the means whereby higher thoughts +and nobler feelings are sought to be expressed. I bought here a very +fine pair of Antlers of the "Bara sing"--a large deer found on these +hills. + + +AUGUST 17th.--To Kookur Nag, twelve miles. I am now convinced I came the +wrong road from Atchibul to Nowboog, as I had to march back over a great +portion of it this morning; however, with the exception of a mile or +two, it was all down hill, and as I knew when I started that I had +twelve miles to go, I was not tired. Stopped at the village on the way +where there are iron works, and saw them smelting the ore which is +obtained from the neighbouring mountains, this ore is a yellow powder, +and appears to be almost pure oxide. Their method of working is very +rude; a small furnace, such as a blacksmith uses at home, supplied with +a pair of leather bellows constitutes the whole of the foundry, and is +of course, only capable of smelting a very small quantity of ore at a +time. Kookur Nag is the name of some springs about two miles from the +village I have encamped at, and I walked over this afternoon to see +them. It was scarcely worth the trouble. There are a great number of +them close together and they issue from the ground, as usual, at the +foot of a prettily wooded hill. The water is very pure and cold, and of +sufficient quantity to form immediately a large and rapid stream. This +place lies near the mouth of a wide gorge or valley which leads right up +to the snows, and down which there must have been at one time, either a +mighty rush of water or a vast glacier, as the ground is thickly strewn +with huge boulders. The stratification of one mountain against which it +is evident the flood impinged--is very clearly and beautifully shown. + + +AUGUST 18th.--To Vernag, ten miles, crossing a range of hills, the +descent being the steepest I have experienced. From the top of the range +there was a fine view of the two valleys of Kookur Nag and Vernag. They +are very similar and down the middle of each is a layer of loose rounded +stones. The springs of Vernag occupy the same position in the valley as +those of Kookur Nag do in the other, but around them is a good sized +village, and their point of exit has been converted into a large and +very deep octagonal tank, which is perfectly crowded with sacred fish. +Surrounding the tank is a series of arches, and on the side from which +the stream escapes is a bungalow for the use of visitors. Six days ago a +Hindoo was drowned here, and his body has not been recovered--so deep is +the water, it is probable that ere this the fish have removed all but +his bones, one hundred yards below the tank is another spring, which is +the finest I believe in Kashmir. It comes straight up on level ground, +and forms a mound of water eighteen inches high, and more than a foot in +diameter. The morning cloudy and very gloomy on account of the eclipse +of the sun of which I saw nothing. This is my birthday and my thoughts +have been running over my past life and speculating upon the future +before me. "But fear not dear reader!" I will not bore you with all my +musings over those twenty-nine unfruitful, if not absolutely mis-spent +evil years, or show you how my "talent" lies carefully folded up and +hidden away, in order that I may have it to return to its "owner". "Oh! +fool, fool that I am." Knowing better things and with a half a lifetime +gone, "I find myself still plodding along the old road paved with good +intentions." The springs of grace indeed surround me, but I am in the +shallows and the water is muddy. The very "Tree of Life" is by my side, +but it is a dwarfed and stunted shrub, whose shoots wither before they +put forth leaves. When will this change? Will my resolutions ever become +deeds? "Will grace abound: or will faith ever give such impetus to my +"Tree of Life," that it may grow up into heaven?" I put to myself the +question that was asked Ezekiel. "Can these dry bones live," and have no +other answer than his to make. These are some of my birthday thoughts. +Pray, forgive, excuse me if I have wearied you. + + +AUGUST 19th.--Back to Atchibul, twelve miles, the road for the most part +level, but there was one mile of very hard work, over the ridge I +crossed yesterday. I approached Atchibul from the hill I mentioned as +standing at the head of the garden, and from the top of it a very pretty +view of the place is obtained. I found the pavilion unoccupied, and +again took possession of it, set the fountains playing, and imagined +myself the Great Mogul. Just out of Vernag, I caught a small black and +yellow bird, which my boatman calls a "bulbul" (though I think he is +wrong in the name) and says it sings very well. I have had a cage made +for it, and it is now feeding at my side, and is apparently very happy. +I'll try and take it to England. I believe it is only one of the shrike +family, but it is too young to identify at present. However, it is my +fancy to keep it, so why should I not. The old gardener here is very +attentive, constantly bringing me fruit. Shall I do him injustice, by +saying that he probably has expectation of a reward? I think not indeed, +is it not the same expectation or its allied motive, the desire to +escape punishment, which prompts the actions of all of us? We do good, I +fear, more for the sake of the promised recompense, than for any love +of the thing itself. Light rain has fallen all day. + + +AUGUST 20th.--I halt at Atchibul. I have now completed my wanderings in +Kashmir, and have seen all I intended except one portion, which I shall +visit on my road home. My next move will be to ----, but as I do not +care to spend more than seven or eight days there, I am in no hurry to +get back. My bird died in the night, and by its death has put an end to +a rather violent controversy between my Bheistie and boatman. The +boatman stoutly maintained his opinion of its value and the Bheistie +with a more correct appreciation, and while explaining to me that it +was a jungle bird and would never sing, appeared to look upon my conduct +with a mixture of compassion and disgust, and then they quarrelled over +it. Was my fancy a foolish one? Some men will spend years in the pursuit +and classification of butterflies, while others go into ecstasy over a +farthing of the reign of Queen Anne. My common jungle bird was a pretty +one, and if I had got it home and put it in a gilt cage, it would surely +have possessed some value for its antecedents, even if it had proved as +mute as a fish, or as discordant as a Hindoo festival. + + +AUGUST 21st.--Marched back to Kunbul, seven miles, and took up my +quarters again on board the boat, fifteen or twenty other boats are +here, a good many visitors having recently arrived in this part of +Kashmir. I remained at Kunbul all day waiting for the completion of a +pair of chuplus which I ordered of a shoemaker ten days ago. I have +occupied the time by reading Marryat's "Newton Forster" (one of Hewson's +gifts) and I find that when I read I can't write, so that must be my +excuse for the shortness of my notes. My head is full of ships, sea +fights, and love making to the exclusion of everything else. I heard +you--you said it was a good job, as it prevented me writing more +nonsense. + + +AUGUST 22nd.--Slowly drifting all day down the stream towards +Sreenuggur. Past Bijbehara with its fine bridge, stopping there a short +time to procure milk and eggs for breakfast. Past Awuntipoor--the former +capital--but now only a very small village, where stands on the rivers +bank the ruins of two ancient Hindoo temples, square blocks, built +indeed of enormous stones, but without sufficient architectural +embellishment to require a closer inspection than I obtained from the +boat. Another of those charming lazy days on the water, nothing to think +about, but the time for meals, nothing to do, but to eat them when +prepared. The eastern part of Kashmir is covered with high isolated +mounds called Kuraywahs, composed of Alluvium, presenting perfectly +flat summits and precipitous sides. The top of these was doubtless the +original bed of the lake at the time when the whole valley was +submerged, and the present channels between them (though now dry land) +were cut by the rush of the water, when the Jhelum burst through the +opening at Baramula and drained the valley. This rush then is shown to +have been impetuous (and the high banks of the river also bear evidence +to it) but it seems to me that the mere breaking through of the stream +sixty or seventy miles away is not enough to account for it. No doubt +that occurrence was attended, I may say produced by violent +subterranean phenomena; and I imagine that this portion of the +vale--which is much higher than the western half--then underwent a +sudden upheaval, the result of which if only a few feet would be to +throw its waters with terrific force into the lower portion and afford +an easy explanation of the formation of both the Kuraqwahs and the +Jhelum. I noticed in my course up the Jhelum, that it appeared to have +originally consisted of a chain of small lakes, this would be the the +natural effect of such a cause as I have supposed. The bulk of water, at +first, would only have been sufficient to produce a few of them, perhaps +only the large one between Gingle and Baramula. But as its quantity and +measure continually increased by the flow from the higher level so +would lake after lake have been formed among the crowded hills until the +plains were reached. Then the drainage of these small lakes would follow +as a matter of course, and the channel of the river be reduced to a size +proportionate to its constant supply. Dear reader, you are very +difficult to please. My descriptions you call slow, my imaginings +frivolous, science dry. Jokes are feeble and personalities tedious +morality is stale, religion is cant. What, how can I write? You have had +a taste of all and if you are not content the fault is--well, let me be +on the safe side--either yours or mine. + + +AUGUST 23rd, Sunday.--We continued to progress last night by moonlight +long after the sun had set, and started again very early this morning, +so that the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Soloman's Throne) and Fort are now +visible, and I expect to reach Sreenuggur before noon. It is faster work +floating down the current than towing against it. At Sreenuggur I found +several letters waiting for me, and amongst them a large "Official," +which I tore open with eager haste; thinking it might be a reply to my +application to be sent home. It was ----. Well, you will never guess--an +urgent enquiry as to what language I could speak and write fluently +beside English. I have answered this question some half dozen times +since I have been in the service, but they never get tired of asking it. +The date of my arrival in India is another favourite and constantly +recurring enquiry, and this might lead me to give you a dissertation +upon the theory and practice of Red-tapeism, with a special +consideration of the amount of stationery thereby wasted, and its +probable cost to the Government. It would perhaps, be very interesting +to you, but to any one who is at all connected with it, the subject is +only one of weariness and disgust--weariness at the unproductive labour +entailed--disgust at the utter folly of the proceedings. So I pass it +by, leaving some one who is willing to sacrifice his feelings, or more +probably some one who knows nothing whatever about it to furnish the +much needed exposé; it is customary to cry it down but it is an +acknowledged evil, the custom has never been fully and fairly explained +to outsiders or it must have given way before the burst of public +indignation which such an explanation would have created. I have again +encamped in the Chinar Bugh, but not quite in the old position as a +better place was unoccupied. Indeed I had my pick of the whole, for +there is now nobody here but myself. I received news (in my letters) +that a field force had left Pindee to operate against some of the hill +tribes between Peshawur and Abbottabad--ruffians who are always giving +trouble, and who occasioned the inglorious Umbeylla campaign a few +years ago. I informed my "boy" that there was going to be some hard +fighting, and his reply was "With our troops, Sir?" Our troops! good +heavens! a black man speaking to me of "our troops." It is customary I +know to call these Asiatics our fellow subjects, but I never before had +the fact so forcibly brought before me. + + +AUGUST 24th.--I got up early this morning and have spent half the day on +the "Dul" or "City Lake"--a large sheet of water which lies at the foot +of the hill behind Sreenuggur. Besides the excessive beauty of the lake +itself there are many objects of interest to be seen on its banks. I +visited in succession the Mussul Bagh, Rupa Lank or Silver Isle, +Shaliman Bagh, Suetoo Causeway, Nishat Bagh, Souee Lank or Golden Isle, +and floating gardens. A word or two of description for each. The Mussul +Bagh is a large grove of fine chenars planted in lines so as to form +avenues at right angles to each other. There must be several hundred of +these noble trees upon the ground, I do not mean fallen but erect and +vigorous. The Shaliman Bagh is an extensive and well cultivated pleasure +garden with pavilions, tanks, canals and fountains, in true oriental +style. The upper pavilion is especially worthy of notice having a +verandah built of magnificent black marble veined with quartz +containing gold. It is surrounded by a large tank possessing one hundred +and fifty-nine fountains, and its exterior is grandly if not +artistically painted. The Nishat Bagh is smaller but scarcely less +attractive. It is arranged in a series of fifteen terraces, from which a +splendid view is obtained of the lake and adjacent country. Down its +centre runs a canal, expanding at intervals into tanks and having a +waterfall for each terrace, with a single straight row of fountains +numbering more than one hundred and sixty. Grand hills rise immediately +above it. It contains pavilions of fruit trees, and as a flower garden, +is superior to the Shaliman Bagh. The Suetoo Causeway, is a series of +old bridges and embankments which formerly crossed the lake, and was two +or three miles long, but only portions of it now remain. The two islands +are small and covered with trees, having no interest of themselves, but +adding greatly to the appearance of the lake. They are I believe +artificially constructed. The celebrated floating gardens are very +curious; they were formed by dividing the stalks of the water weeds near +their roots, and sprinkling the surface of them with earth, which +sinking a little way was entangled in the fibres and retained; Fresh +soil was then added, until the whole was consolidated, and capable of +bearing a considerable weight. The ground is now about nine inches +thick, floating upon the surface of the water, and the stalks of the +weeds below it having disappeared. It is exceedingly porous and is used +for the cultivation of water melons, when walking upon it a peculiar +elasticity is perceived, accompanied with a tremulous or jelly like +motion. It is divided into long stripes pierced by a stake at each end, +which secures them in their position and allows of their rising or +falling with the height of the water. An unlucky day for Silly. In the +first place he was _sea-sick_. The use of the broad paddle in a small +boat caused a good deal of shaking, and every stroke is attended with a +sharp jerk forwards--secondly, he mistook a collection of weeds for dry +land and jumped out into the water. This puzzled him immensely, and +after he was recovered he sat for a long time gazing with a bewildered +air upon the surface of the lake. Paid a visit in the afternoon to +Sumnud Shah for the purpose of replenishing my exchequer, but found his +shop better calculated to exhaust it. I'll not go there again. + + +AUGUST 25th.--Lying down inside my tent I just now heard two crows +chuckling and laughing in their way and saying to one another "here's a +joke" or caws to that effect. You need not laugh at this statement or +think that my mind has suddenly become deranged, I merely state a fact. +The language of animals--dumb creatures as fools call them--is far more +expressive than you imagine, and if you had spent the same time and the +same attention that I have in listening to birds notes, you would be +able to understand much of their meaning. Here a conversation carried on +in a foreign tongue, one to which you a perfect stranger, will you be +able to distinguish words? No! you will only hear a confusion of sounds +possessing apparently but little variety. But as you become accustomed +to it the words and syllables will start out into clear relief; so with +birds songs--at first they will appear to you to be always the same, but +they have really different tones and meanings, which you may learn to +appreciate by studying them in connection with their acts. However I +heard the crows say "here's a joke" and guessing I was to be the victim +of it, I immediately jumped up and rushed out. They flew away loudly +exulting and I found my match box,--which I had left on the table broken +to pieces and the matches carefully distributed so as to cover as large +a space of ground as possible; there is a crow's joke for you--there is +not much in it as a joke,--but I introduce it principally to show that +birds talk and that I (clever I) can understand them. I wrote the +foregoing to eke out my notes for the day, not having anything +particular to record. When the Baboo called upon me with the startling +intelligence, all officers from the Peshawur division ordered +immediately to rejoin their respective regiments; this has taken away +the greater number of the visitors and very few are now left in Kashmir. +Why don't I pack up and start? Well, I forgot to mention a short +sentence in the order "except those on medical certificate" which saves +me the trouble and annoyance of hurrying back before the expiration of +my leave. It is on account, I suppose, of the little war we have entered +on with those hill tribes, and I may be missing honour and glory, wounds +and death, neither of which I care to earn from barbarians on the black +mountains. I am sorry for the affair as I fear that from the +inaccessibility of the country the best result will barely escape +disaster. This is a strange day. You see me, one moment trifling with my +thoughts for the sake of occupation and then having matters and subjects +for the deepest consideration suddenly thrust upon me. Ought I to +rejoin? I am indeed protected from the necessity of doing so, but my +health is now fully established and such being the case, is it my duty +to waive my right and return to my regiment. I think not, for the reason +it is not likely that they will weaken the garrison at Peshawur by +sending any of its troops into the field. Its strength is maintained for +the purpose of defence against the Cabulese and other powerful Pathan +tribes immediately surrounding it, who are deadly enemies, and would be +eager to avail themselves of any opportunity for offence. Therefore I +imagine that my regiment will remain in quarter, and do just as well +without me as with me; and therefore have I determined to adhere to my +original plans. + + +AUGUST 26th.--There was a great fire in the town last night; three +hundred houses have been destroyed. I went early to the scene of the +disaster, which is on the left bank of the river adjoining the first +bridge. The embers were still smouldering, and among the ruins the heat +was intense, owing to the houses having been built almost entirely of +wood, little but ashes and charred logs remained of them. Here and there +a few hot bricks retained the semblance of a wall, but the destruction +has been as complete as it is excessive. The bridge has also suffered, +the bank pier having been attacked by the flames, and half the railing +on either side of the foot-way has been torn off and precipitated into +the water. The latter injury was caused I imagine, by the rush of the +crowd over it at the time of the fire. No lives lost I believe. + + +AUGUST 27th.--At six o'clock this morning a Jemindar or military +officer made his appearance, sent by the Baboo, for the purpose of +conducting me over the fort. A row of a mile down the river, and half a +mile walk through the narrow rough crowded and stinking streets of the +town brought us to the outworks, at the foot of the hill on which it is +built. This hill is very steep and several hundred feet high, (I do not +know the exact height, but I think it is between six and seven hundred +feet) and the climb up it was fatiguing. From the top there is an +extensive view, but the morning was misty and the greater part of the +valley indiscernible. In front lies the town, intersected by the Jhelum; +a great desert of mud-covered roofs presenting anything but the green +carpet-like appearance described in books. On the left long lines of +poplars, enclosing the Moonshi Bagh and the various encamping grounds, +with the Tukh-t-i-Suliman rising high above them. Behind, the Dul, +spread out like a sheet of silver with the back ground of mountains, and +many canals radiating and glistening in the sun-light. Of the fort I +have but little to say. From below, its position renders it imposing, +but a nearer inspection dispels the illusion. Inside it there is a +Hindoo temple, two or three tanks filled with green, slimy water, and +some wretched hovels for the occupation of the garrison. The ramparts +though high are weak and a few shells dropped within them would blow +the whole place to pieces. The ordnance consists of four ancient brass +guns; two of them about 9-pounders and the others 32-pounders, but I did +not see a spot from which either of them could be safely fired; and even +if there were bastions strong enough, I doubt if cannon could be +depressed sufficiently to sweep the precipitous sides of the hill. On my +way back to the boat, I turned aside to visit the Jumma Musjid, or chief +Mosque, a large quadrangular wooden building, the roof of which is +supported by deodar columns of great height, each pillar being cut out +of a single tree, but I cannot waste more time over it, the name recalls +to my memory the magnificent Jumma Musjid of Delhi--but comparisons are +odious. When parting with my attendant I felt uncertain whether or no he +would be offended by the offer of a remuneration for his trouble, so I +left him to ask for it, as natives usually do not scruple to request +"bucksheesh" for the most trifling service, but either his orders or his +dignity prevented him from soliciting it, and he went away unrewarded +and I doubt not dissatisfied. After noon I went and selected a lot of +papier maché articles, and gave monograms to be painted upon them. Their +papier maché is fairly made, elaborately painted and moderate in price. +At this shop they prepared some ladâk tea for me, a most delicious +beverage possessing a delicate flavour such as I have never before +tasted in any tea. It was sweetened with a sort of sweet-meat in lieu of +plain sugar. + + +AUGUST 28th.--A blank day, I have done nothing but fish and only caught +one of moderate size. Early in the morning there was a storm attended +with high wind and heavy rain; it cleared up before sun-rise, but its +effect has been to make the day very pleasantly cool. + + +AUGUST 29th.--Went up to the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Solomon's Throne) before +breakfast. It stands one thousand one hundred feet above the town, and +the ascent is effected by means of unhewn stones arranged in the form +of a rough flight of steps built by the Gins, I should fancy for their +own private use and without any consideration for the puny race of +mankind that was destined to follow them. I am a tall man and gifted +with a considerable length of _understanding_ but the strides I was +obliged to take--sometimes almost bounds--if calculated to improve my +muscles, were certainly very trying to my wind. However all things have +an end, and so had that long flight of steps, and at the summit I had +leisure to recover my breath and enjoy the magnificent view. I took care +to have a clear day for this excursion, and the whole valley was seen +stretched out like a map, and spreading far away to the feet of its +stupendous mountain boundaries. The lakes like huge mirrors reflecting a +dazzling radiance. The Jhelum twisting like a "gilded snake" and forming +at the foot of the hill the original of the well-known shawl pattern; +miles upon miles of bright and verdant fields, divided and marked out by +the banks and hedges; clumps and groves of lofty trees diminished by +distance to the appearance of mere dark green bushy excrescences; the +poplar avenue looking like two long and paralleled lines drawn upon the +ground; the fort and hill but a pigmy now; the city of sombre colour, +with its houses closely huddled together and presenting an expanse of +mud--unworthy stone for such a setting! The high and rugged mountains +on every side piercing the clouds, out of which the everlasting snow and +ice rock regions untrod by mortal foot gleam and glisten coldly in the +scene below; these are the constituent parts of a view which taken +altogether ranks among the finest (if indeed it be not itself the +finest) in the world. But I have no description for it as a whole, words +would fail me if I attempted to reproduce it on paper, so you must take +the items and arrange them to your own satisfaction, and wish you had +the opportunity of seeing the glorious original. I am no antiquarian, +but I believe the building itself possesses great interest for those who +indulge in that musty study, on account of its vast antiquity and +uncertain history. To me it is only a Hindoo temple of quaint +architecture and unwholesome smell. Inside it is a small marble idol in +the form of a pillar with a snake carved round it. + + +AUGUST 30th, Sunday.--The beginning of a fresh week which will at its +conclusion find me on my way homewards, my back turned on the lovely +valley and all the beauties that I have witnessed existing only in my +memory like a pleasant dream that has passed. So wags the world, joys +giving place to sorrows, and sorrows in their turn effaced by fresh +happiness or oblivion. For a little while each one of us plays his ever +varying part in the great drama of life. Now bewailing with bursting +heart, and scalding tears the light affliction which is but for a +moment; now with ringing laugh and reckless gaiety he enjoys the +present, forgetful alike of past and future, now with stormy passions +raging he "like an angry ape, plays such fantastic tricks before high +heaven, as make the angels weep;" and then is his short act over, then +the curtain falls and then will he be called before it to receive +approbation? Who can tell, I judge not one individually; but I may +generalize and say, that while as a rule we give a terrible earnestness +to the performance of the _business_ connected with our parts, we too +often fail to appreciate and interpret the _spirit_ of the character, +without which it is of course but a sorry exhibition and one that will +be deservedly damned. As I sit under the shade of the chenars writing, a +young native swell is passing along the opposite bank of the canal--a +mere boy, with gold turban, lofty plume and embroidered clothing, riding +a horse led by two grooms, followed by attendants also mounted, but +sitting two on a horse and preceded by a band consisting only of some +six drummers. He is playing his part doubtless very much to his own +satisfaction, and little thinking that there is one "taking notes" and +laughing at his proceedings. But so it is, we can always see, and +ridicule the faults and foibles of others, would to God we could as +easily perceive and weep over those of our own. The Baboo Mohes Chund +called to pay his farewell visit to me and shortly afterwards sent a +second edition of "russud" including as before--a live sheep. + + +AUGUST 31st.--My last day in Sreenuggur--and now let me make a few +observations on a topic which I dare say you are surprised has not been +mentioned before, I mean the women; the far-famed beauties of Kashmir. I +am not ungallant, while I have been silent, I have been observing, and +have delayed my remarks in order that they might have the benefit of the +largest experience I could command. I did this the more willingly, +because to tell the truth, I was disappointed at first, and I hoped that +by waiting I might eventually have reason to change my unfavourable +opinion. This however has not been the case, and while I intend to do +full justice to their charms I must commence by saying that they have +been grossly exaggerated. I do not of course allude to the higher +classes. They are invisible; they _may_ be very beautiful, but are never +seen by Europeans. But the middle and lower classes go about with the +face uncovered, exposing themselves to the criticism of some and the +admiration of others, and it is of them I speak. The slim elegant figure +of the Hindoo is seldom seen; they are large, plump, round women. Their +complexion has been absurdly compared to that of our brunettes (may they +feel complimented thereby) but veracity compels me to say that they are +_very dark_. Fair indeed by comparison with the Hindoos, but actually +and unmistakeably copper-coloured not to say _black_. In their features +we find a great improvement; a well-shaped nose replaces the expanded +nostrils, compressed lips, the thick pouting ones, their teeth are of +marvellous whiteness and regularity as are those of all Asiatics. Their +cheeks may sometimes have a tinge of pink, but this is usually veiled by +the darker tint of the "rete mucosum." Their eyes--oh! their eyes!--here +lies their beauty, almond-shaped eyes, that when not in anger cannot +help throwing the sweetest and most captivating glances. None of your +trained disciplined eyes, taught to express feelings that do not exist; +but still eyes that equally deceive, eyes that nature in some strange +freak determined should ever look love. Unconsciously and +unintentionally they dart upon you the brightest, the most tender, nay, +even passionate glances. When looking at a young face, you only see the +eyes; eyes so voluptuous, so maddening, that you exclaim "good heavens +what a beautiful creature," and unless you are a calm and cool analyst +like myself, you may not discover that there is really no beauty save in +them. They dress their hair in a peculiar manner. It is plaited in a +number of small plaits joining two larger ones which fall over the +shoulders and unite in the middle of the back to form a long tail +terminating with a tassel. The larger plaits are mixed with wool, this +adds to their bulk, and increase the length of the tail, which often +extends below the knees. They wear a single loose gown, reaching in +ample folds nearly to the feet. On the head a small red skull cap, over +which is thrown the white (too often dirty) "chudder"--a light cloth +which hangs down the back and is used for veiling the face. The +boatwomen are renowned for their beauty. I have seen but little of it. +The Punditanees are said to be more beautiful than the boatwomen. I +consider them even less so. But among the Nautch girls I have seen both +grace and beauty, and as a class, I certainly think far better looking +than the others. Respect to age is a noble feeling--though one that is +unfortunately at a low ebb now-a-days--but truth, compels me and I must +pronounce all the elderly women to be positively ugly, and a woman is +elderly in Kashmir when in England she still might be called young. The +men are a fine race, regular features, broad shouldered and muscular, +wearing their bushy black beards on their faces, but shaving the head, +which is covered with a small coloured skull cap and white turban. Two +other men have pitched their tents under this tope. To-morrow I shall +leave them in undisturbed possession of the whole. They are friends and +have been travelling in Kashmir. I have had a conversation with one of +them, but I don't like strangers and am glad they did not come before. + + +SEPTEMBER 1st.--Up and away, taking a last look at the town and bridges, +a last look at the Tukh-t-i-Suliman while floating down the river. I am +on my way to Baramula, having given up my intended visit to Gulmurg, so +that I may get a week at Murree, and see more of the place than I did +when I was last there. Adieu to Sreenuggur, adieu to the Scind, adieu +to Manusbul; gently onwards we go towards lake Wulloor. It is a bright +clear day, one of the brightest among the many bright ones, and the +valley seems smiling upon me an affectionate farewell in order that the +last recollections and parting scene may be a joyful memory to me in +days and years to come. I thank thee for it. When I am gone let +rain-tears fall and clouds of care bewail my absence, but gladden my +departing moments with the full radiance of thy glorious countenance. +Oh! Kashmir, loveliest spot on earth, I owe thee a deep debt of +gratitude, I came to thee weak in body; thou hast restored my strength, +I was poor in thought; thou hast filled my heart with good things, I +was proud in conceit; thou hast shown me nature's grandeur and my own +littleness. With a voiceless tongue thou hast spoken and my spirit has +heard the unuttered words. Tales of the creation when the morning stars +sang together and all the sons of God shouted for joy; tales of man and +his works perished in the endless roll of ages; tales of the future when +heaven and earth shall have passed away amid the dread terror of the +great tribulation. Aye, and one more tale, a tale of love, mercy, and +forgiveness; the tale of an Asiatic--who, not far from here, was once +"bruised for our transgressions," who took upon Himself the iniquities +of us all and made up for us a mighty deliverance, and to this tale +there is a refrain that echoes from hill to hill, and spreads along the +plain in endless repetition, "believe only and thou shalt be saved," but +though the command is so simple, its eager passionate tone as it swells +around me, and an earnest mournful cadence as it dies away in the +distance, seems to imply that it is neither easily nor commonly obeyed. + + +SEPTEMBER 2nd.--Awoke early and found myself in the broad waters of the +lake, the full moon shining brightly in the west, and yet unpaled by the +rosy dawn that was rapidly illuminating the east. Stopped at Sopoor for +breakfast, and Macnamara, surgeon of the 60th Rifles, and his wife, +arrived soon after me, also bound for Murree. Macnamara was at Peshawur +with me, and was one of the committee that sent me away. We passed the +morning in conversation, and at mid-day continued our journey to +Baramula. He told me that he had heard that I was going home this winter +with troops; but I do not know whether his information is reliable. I +trust it may prove to be so, but it has not raised my hopes to a +certainty. It is a good rule never to reckon confidently upon the +achievement of our desires. It never assists to realise them and only +renders the disappointment more bitter in case of failure. I have a +great hope, but I do not forget that obstacles may arise, that while +man proposes God disposes, and often find myself forming plans for next +year under the supposition that I shall still remain in India. I have +written the dedication of this volume and have written it as if I had +already returned to England, and this may appear to indicate that I rely +strongly upon the fulfilment of my expectation. But not so, I can alter +or destroy it if need be, and shall do so with regret indeed, but +without despair. About halfway between Sopoor and Baramula the wind +increased to a gale and obliged me to take refuge under the bank. I +dined with Macnamara and his wife at 8 o'clock, the weather moderated +and we proceeded to Baramula. + + +SEPTEMBER 3rd.--At sunrise I obtained coolies, and turned my back on +the happy valley for ever. It was a beautiful morning with a golden haze +rising from the ground, the mountains appearing blue and purple against +the eastern halo; but before I had gone a mile a dark cloud gathered +around me, and wept passionate rain. I marched to Naoshera, ten miles, +followed in an hour by Dr. and Mrs. Macnamara who will be my fellow +travellers as far as Murree. The Rohale ferry is re-opened and I am +returning by the direct road on the left bank of the Jhelum. There is a +barahduree at every stage, so I sold my tent at Sreenuggur to render my +baggage lighter. I am travelling with only six coolies. The river is +much lower and less rapid than when I came up it, the excess of water +caused by the melting of the snow during the summer having been carried +off. It is still however a noisy turbulent torrent. + + +SEPTEMBER 4th.--A long march of fourteen miles to Ooree. The road is +becoming very hilly, but is not as yet nearly so rough and difficult as +on the other side. Passed two ruins; one of then very similar to those +at Wangut, but much smaller. + + +SEPTEMBER 5th.--To Chukoti, sixteen miles, a severe and fatiguing march, +the hills being intersected by ravines--the beds of streams--to all of +which there was a steep descent and corresponding ascent. This is the +worst march on the Murree road, but though bad, it is much better than +five or six that I described on my journey from Abbottabad. These long +marches are very detrimental to my diary, for at the conclusion I have +no energy either to think or write. I am not using my dandy now, and +have to walk every inch of the way. + + +SEPTEMBER 6th.--Fifteen weary miles to Huttian, low down on a level with +the river where I found a number of tents belonging to the Lord Bishop +of Calcutta and his Chaplain, who are here with a large retinue of +servants, and are on their way into Kashmir. They had very +considerately and unlike a certain ---- ---- left the bungalow empty for +the use of other travellers. Macnamara sprained his knee yesterday, and +used my dandy to day. One of my coolies stumbled on the road and the +Kitta he was carrying--containing my stores and cooking utensils, went +over the Rhudd and burst open in the fall. Macnamara was behind +fortunately (for me) and superintended the collection of the articles so +that my only loss of any moment is that of my big cooking pot, which +from its weight probably rolled all the way down to the Jhelum--the long +grass growing on the hill, stopped the other things. The six remaining +marches are I am glad to say short. The three last have been a severe +trial on account of the numerous and rough ups and downs, and for the +last mile or two this morning, the soles of my feet were in great pain; +Silly too was very exhausted even to the dropping of his tail. + + +SEPTEMBER 7th.--Got up at daybreak and marched on Chikar, distance ten +miles. For three miles the road continued along the valley of the +Jhelum, and then turned to the south, and crossed several ranges of +hills, each range rising higher than the one before, very hard work it +was, the ascents being so steep and long--I can't keep my breath going +up hill; it is far more fatiguing than any roughness of road. Chikar is +a good sized village with a fort and is situated on the summit of a +mountain at least two thousand feet above the Jhelum. There is a fine +view of the surrounding hills from the Barahduree. Shortly after our +arrival it began to rain, and has turned out a wet day. I had half my +crockery broken by the coolie dropping the basket instead of putting it +carefully down at the conclusion of the march. + + +SEPTEMBER 8th.--To Meira, seven and a half miles, a toilsome hill for +half the distance, and then a descent the rest of the way. Scenery very +pretty, the valleys being much larger and the mountains higher. The +Murree ridge is now visible. From this bungalow we can see the next +halting place, half way up a hill on the opposite side of an extensive +valley deeply cut by ravines. The view is really very grand--much the +finest on this road--in some parts it slightly resembles the scenery +around Darjeeling with, of course, pine trees taking the place of +magnolias and rhododendrons. The mere mention of those trees--magnolias +and rhododendrons I mean--will only give you a misconception of the +Sikin forests, because your ideas will be turned to the stunted shrubs +of our northern latitudes. The magnolias and rhododendrons I speak of, +are huge towering trees, taller than the largest oaks. How well I +remember the magnificent spectacle they presented when in blossom! I +have never seen mountains or forests that could compare in grandeur with +those of the eastern Himalayas. Can you imagine Kishun-gunga twenty-nine +thousand feet high? No! it is impossible; it is a sight that produces +the most intense awe, and when I first looked upon it I did not know how +to contain my feelings; but enough, or I shall be giving you a chapter +quite irrevelant to my journey from Kashmir. By the side of this +bungalow stands a large cypress; a very beautiful and by no means a +common tree. There is something peculiarly rich in its dark green +foliage, and withal, melancholy look, but that is doubtless owing to +its tomb--stone associations. Ince in his "Guide," calls it a +_sycamore_. He could hardly have named a tree more widely different. + + +SEPTEMBER 9th.--To Dunee, eight and a half miles; first half, down hill, +second up: both very steep and rough. A bad fatiguing march. The +barahduree here has been lately white-washed and looks quite refreshing +after the other dirty ones; but the rooms are ridiculously small. This +is the last halt in Kashmirian territory; to-morrow we shall be in a dâk +bungalow. I had a lesson to-day. The same lesson that the spider taught +Bruce--never to cease striving to obtain any desired object; and not +despair even if frequent failures attend the attempt. Ever since I left +Baramula I have been endeavouring to catch another of the green +butterflies, as beetles had eaten my first specimen. But they are very +alert on the wing, and I could not get near one. The last two or three +marches I had not seen any, having got out of their locality, but to-day +a solitary one flew by me and I knocked it down, caught it, and secured +it in my toper. Success will eventually crown all constant endeavours, +it is a slight peg on which to hang a moral, but let it pass. Life is +made up of trifles, and I desire my book to represent my life. A number +of people--ladies, men, and children--came into the bungalow at 2 +o'clock, having made a double march and overtaken us; so we are very +closely packed, even the verandah being occupied. + + +SEPTEMBER 10th.--To Kohala, six miles, nearly all the way down a +terribly steep and rough hill to the banks of the Jhelum--which river +has taken a great bend among the mountains and now runs at right angles +to its former course. A ferry boat crosses the torrent at this spot and +the passage during the summer is attended with considerable danger, as +the stream runs at the rate of twenty miles an hour. I got my baggage in +it and landed upon British soil at the other side. The Dâk bungalow is +just above, but we were very much crowded as all the other people +remained for the night. After dinner a great thunderstorm took place +accompanied with very heavy rain. + + +SEPTEMBER 11th.--Marched to Dargwal, twelve miles, up hill all the way, +but the road is broad and smooth, so that the march was quickly and +easily accomplished. M---- and his wife did not come in till the middle +of the day as they could not get coolies in time to start early. There +is a good furnished bungalow here, our other fellow travellers have gone +on to Murree, so we have the house to ourselves. + + +SEPTEMBER 12th.--To Murree, ten miles, road the same as yesterday. Went +to Woodcot, and found Spurgeon, Gordon, and Egerton, of the 36th; Hensma +and Beadnell, 77th; and Dalrymple, 88th. Put up with them sharing +Spurgeon's room. Spent a pleasant time at Murree, doing very little--a +long rest of ten days after my labours--and on the 22nd, at 1 o'clock, I +took my seat in the mail cart with Redan Massy for my companion, and +started on my journey to Peshawur. Arrived at Rawul Birder at 6 in the +evening, and went on at once by the Government van. Had no time for +food. Got to Peshawur at 7 o'clock next morning, and thus ended my three +months sick leave. And now I go back to the din and bustle of life, the +empty conventionalities of society, the noise and glitter of mess; to +the re-pursuit of my profession, and to learn again by the bedside of +many a dying man how weak and powerless is that profession to combat the +ills that flesh is heir to. I sometimes wish I could exchange my present +calling. Terrible thoughts often assail me, after the death of any of my +patients. Questions as to whether I am at all responsible for the fatal +issue. Whether by lack of knowledge that I should possess or by careless +observation during the progress of the disease, I have allowed a man to +die who might have been saved, or pushed into the grave one who was only +trembling with uncertainty upon its brink. Yet as a set off against +these feelings there is the satisfaction experienced when sufferings are +relieved or health restored by the interposition of my aid. The +profession of medicine is potent for good and evil. For good in the +hands of him who makes it his lifelong study; for evil in his hands who +adopts it merely as a respectable means of obtaining his livelihood. It +is noble in the one case; detestable in the other. You do not know how +detestable. If the vail could be raised, if you could see the vast +amount of misery and suffering caused, the many hearts broken that God +would not have made sad; and the many unprepared souls hurried out of +this life into eternity by the ignorance of men who are "licensed to +kill," you would cry out against the whole body of the profession with a +bitter hatred, that even the army of noble and devoted minds amongst us +would be unable to appease. Am I too severe? I fear not. There are +charlatans and know nothings in every pursuit, but in mine they effect +so seriously the temporal and may be eternal welfare of mankind that +their existence is awful to contemplate. Shall I, in conclusion, write +an apology for having nothing better than the foregoing to offer for +your perusal "devil a bit." If I have written folly and you have read it +all, why, you are the greater simpleton. To me it was an occupation when +I had nothing better to do, on your part it was a foolish waste of +time, which might have been more profitably employed. If I have written +folly and you have _not_ read it, what necessity is there for me to +apologize to you? If I have written sense and you consider it nonsense, +you owe me an apology for your erroneous opinion. But if I have written +sense and you have derived pleasure from the perusal of it, then we are +both content, and I need neither forefend your criticism nor beg your +excuses. Thus then I have proved that though it may possibly be +necessary for you to apologize to me, it cannot under any circumstance +be needful for me to apologize to you. But there is a small class to +whom the above remarks do not apply. I mean those few who I delight to +think will read my book diligently and admiringly, merely because _I_ +wrote it. Whose judgment is warped by their affection, and who will be +unconscious of the weary yawn my pages may often produce. Shall I +apologize to them? No! let them read, let them yawn; T'is a labour of +love on their part, a labour which _love_ has prepared for them--and for +them alone--or mine. + +And now farewell. May your shadow _never_ grow less! May you live for a +thousand years. + +HAZOR SALAAM. + + +JANUARY 16th, 1869.--If these notes should ever be written out by my +relations after my death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the +many mistakes in spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of +the writing, may by corrected and not set down to ignorance. + + + + +LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. + +Prince Frederic of Schleswig Holstein. +His Excellency Lieut.-General E. Frome, R.E., Governor of Guernsey. +Sir P. Stafford Carey, Bailiff of Guernsey. +Edgar MacCulloch, Esq., Lieutenant-Bailiff. +William Wallace Armstrong, Esq., San Francisco. A.B. +Mrs. Boucaut, Guernsey. +General Sir George Brooke, K.C.B., R.H.A. +Lieut.-Col. H.J. Buchanan, 2-9th Regiment. +Major Henry L. Brownrigg, 84th Regiment. +Henry S.R. Bagenal, Esq., Control Department. +Captain George P. Beamish, 36th Regiment. +Mr. George Beedle, Quarter-Master 6th Regiment. +A. Brown, Esq., National Provincial Bank of England. +J. P. Bainbrigge, Esq., Bank of England, Liverpool. +J. Banckes, Esq., Shipwrecked Mariners' Society. +Mrs. Crawford, Guernsey. +Mrs. Cunnynghame, Edinburgh. +W. Collins, Esq., M.D., Scots Fusilier Guards. +Mrs. Cave, Hartley Whitney, Hants. +Captain G. Collis, 6th Regiment. +Colonel Conran, Fitzroy, Melbourne. +H. Couling, Esq., Brighton. +H. Cuppaidge, Esq. +Miss Dugdale, 75, Gloucester Terrace, Hyde Park, W. +Miss E. Donne, Grove Terrace Highgate. +Miss Donne, Salisbury. +James D'Altera, Esq., M.D. +James Deane, Esq., Queenstown, Cork. +W.G. Don, Esq., M.D. +Dr. Drewitt, Wimborne, Dorset. +Dr. Dudfield, 8, Upper Phillimore Place, Kensington, W. +B. De Marylski, Esq., Royal Artillery. +Captain P. De Saumarez, Guernsey. +Captain D.K. Evans, 6th Regiment. +Mrs. W. Foster, 7, Lower Berkeley Street, London. +Mrs. E. Foster, 10, Chester Terrace, Regent's Park. +Mrs. Feilden, Isle of Herm. +Major-Gen. Sampson Freeth, late Royal Engineers. +Major-Gen. James H. Freeth, late Royal Engineers. +Colonel Foster, late 16th Lancers. +The Rev. W. Foran, Guernsey. +Walter Freeth Esq., Croydon. +Henry Foster Esq., Victoria Road, Kensington. +Patterson Foster, Esq. +Kingsly, O. Foster, Esq. +Mrs. F.W. Gosselin, Guernsey. +Rev. F. Giffard, The Vicarage, Hartley Wintney. +John C. Guerin, Esq., Guernsey. +S.M. Gully, Esq., 9th Regiment. +F.L. Grundy, Esq., 6th Regiment. +M. Garnier, Guernsey. +Mrs. Horridge. +Lieut.-Col. Fitzwilliam Hunter, 36th Regiment. +T. Holmes, Esq., 18, Great Cumberland Place, Hyde Park. +Captain J.B. Hopkins, 6th Regiment. +Reginald Hollingworth, Esq., late 77th Regiment. +T. Husband, Esq., 34, Argyle Road, Kensington. +Charles Hogge, Esq., 6th Regiment. + +In Memoriam. +Miss B.S.H. Coventry Jeffery. +Captain A.H. Josselyn, 9th Regiment. +J.W. Jones, Esq., 5th Dragoon Guards. +The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A. +Mr. J. Kenwood, Hartley Wintney. +Mrs. Le Marchant Thomas Le Marchant, Guernsey. +Miss Lefebvre, Guernsey. +Mrs. La Serre, Guernsey. +Sir T. Galbraith Logan, K.C.B., Director General. +Thomas Lacy, Esq., Guernsey. +Major R.B. Lloyd, 36th Regiment. +"Library," Officers, 36th Regiment. +Mr. Thomas Lenfestey, Guernsey. +Mrs. MacPherson, Guernsey. +Mrs. Mogg, Clifton. +Mrs. Peter Martin, Guernsey. +Mrs. Myers, Guernsey. +A.D. MacGregor, Esq., Guernsey. +Capt. A.E. Morgan, late 71st Highland Lt. Inf. +Captain J.W. Massey, 9th Regiment. +J.W. Morgan, Esq., 6th Regiment. +James E. Macdonnel, Esq., 9th Regiment. +W.H. Marriot, Esq., 36th Regiment. +S.M. Maxwell, Esq., 36th Regiment. +A. Morgan, Esq., Treasurer, S.W. Railway. +The Mess, 36th Regiment. +W. Moullin, Esq., Clifton. +Miss A.M. Newman, Cheltenham. +The Rev. E.J. Ozanne, M.A., Guernsey. +Captain J. Osmer, 36th Regiment. +E.F. O'Leary, Esq., 6th Regiment. +Mrs. Joshua Priaulx, Guernsey. +Mr. Charles Palmer, Hartley Wintney. +Miss M. Pittard Guernsey. +Colonel Priaulx, Guernsey. +Colonel Lewis Peyton. +G. Pollock, Esq., 36, Grosvenor Street, London, W. +C.W. Poulton, Esq., 35th Regiment. +G. Pound; Esq., Odiham, Hants. +Mrs. Ramsay, Isle of Sark. +John Roberts, Esq., M.D., Guernsey. +George M. Richmond, Esq., 36th Regiment. +J.L. Rose, Esq., 36th Regiment. +Mrs. Sandes, St. John's Hill, London, S.W. +Mrs. R. Smith, Guernsey. +Lieut.-Col. R. Scott, Fort George, Aberdeen. +Major Charles Stirling, late Royal Artillery. +Dr. Fowler Smith, District Recruiting Office, Peterborough. +Capt. C. Spurgeon, 36th Regiment. +Capt. H. Stopford, 36th Regiment. +W. Smail, Esq., 36th Regiment. +R.B. Smyth, Esq., M.B. 102d Regiment. +Mrs. Threllfall, Ferryside, South Wales. +Capt. C. Townsend, Royal Artillery. +D. Thorburn, Esq., M.D., 8th Hussars. +Mrs. Wren, 3 Paris Square, Bayswater. +Charles Williams, Esq., Guernsey. +Watkin S. Whylock, Esq., M.D., Assist.-Surgeon. +Capt. H. Webb, 36th Regiment. +Mr Wetheral, Oak Lodge, Winchfield. +Netley Library. +And "Others received too late for publication." + + + +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, BORDAGE-STREET. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Months of My Life, by J. F. 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F. Foster + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Three Months of My Life + +Author: J. F. Foster + +Release Date: November 30, 2004 [EBook #14213] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<p><i>[Transcriber's Note: At the conclusion of this diary, the author writes: +"If these notes should ever be written out by my relations after my +death—for I am now like to die, let me beg that the many mistakes in +spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of the writing, may by +corrected and not set down to ignorance." The relations may indeed have +corrected many errors, but many remain, and they have been left as in +the original.]</i></p> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h1>THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE.</h1> + + +<h2>A DIARY</h2> + +<h2>OF THE LATE J.F. FOSTER, ASSISTANT-SURGEON, HER MAJESTY'S 36TH FOOT.</h2> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><i>Edited by LIZZIE A. FREETH.</i></h2> + + +<h4> +GUERNSEY:<br /> +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, 10, BORDAGE STREET.<br /> +LONDON: SIMPKIN & MARSHALL<br /> +1873.<br /> +</h4> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2>I DEDICATE,</h2> + +<h3><i>Firstly,</i></h3> + +<h2> +MY GRATITUDE TO GOD—<br /> +FOR HIS MERCY IN PRESERVING ME THUS FAR,<br /> +AND BRINGING ME SAFELY HOME AFTER<br /> +SEVERAL YEARS SERVICE IN INDIA,<br /> +TO MEET AGAIN ALL (SAVE ONE) THOSE MOST<br /> +DEAR TO ME.<br /> +</h2> +<h3> +<i>And Secondly,</i> +</h3> +<h2> +MY BOOK TO MY PARENTS,<br /> +WITH THE CERTAIN AND HAPPY KNOWLEDGE<br /> +THAT THEY WILL READ WITHOUT CRITICISM<br /> +AND ONLY WITH AFFECTIONATE INTEREST,<br /> +THE ACCOUNT OF MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES<br /> +WHILE WANDERING IN A REMOTE<br /> +AND LOVELY CORNER OF<br /> +THE EARTH.<br /> +</h2> + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#EDITORS_PREFACE">Editor's Preface.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#AUTHORS_PREFACE">Author's Preface.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#INTRODUCTION">Introduction.</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#THREE_MONTHS_OF_MY_LIFEquot">"Three Months Of My Life."</a> </td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'><a href="#LIST_OF_SUBSCRIBERS">List Of Subscribers.</a></td></tr></table> + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="EDITORS_PREFACE" id="EDITORS_PREFACE"></a>EDITOR'S PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>In laying the following pages before the public, I do so with a feeling +that they will be read with interest, not only by those who knew the +writer, but those to whom the scenes described therein are known, and +also those who appreciate a true description of a country which they may +never have the good fortune to see. We are all familiar with Kashmir in +the "fanciful imagery of Lalla Rookh," at the same time may not object +to reading an account—with a ring of truth in it—of that lovely land, +lovely and grand, beyond the power of poets to describe as it really +is, so travellers say. Readers will see that Mr. Foster intended to have +published this Diary himself had he been spared to reach England, he has +offered any apology that is necessary, so I will say nothing further +than to state, the daily entries were kept in a pocket-book written in +pencil, occasionally a word is not quite legible, that will account for +any little inaccuracy. After being two years at Elizabeth College, +Guernsey, under the Rev. A. Corfe, Mr. Foster entered St. George's +Hospital, as Student of Medicine, he received there in his last year the +"Ten Guinea Prize" for General Proficiency. From St. George's he went to +Netley, and on leaving that he served for a short time in Jersey, with +the 2nd Battallion 1st Royals, and 1st Battallion 6th Royals, after +which he embarked for India, where from February, 1868, to the beginning +of 1869, he served with the following Regiments, &c., 91st Highlanders, +at Dum Dum; F Battery C. Brigade Royal Horse Artillery, at Benares; 27th +Inniskillings, at Hazareebagh, Bengal Depôt, Chinsurah; Detachment 58th +Regiment, at Sahibgunge; Head-Quarters 58th Regiment, at Sinchal, again +at the Bengal Depôt Chinsurah; Head-Quarters 107th Regiment, at +Allahabad; Detachment 107th Regiment, at Fort Allahabad; G Battery 11th +Brigade Royal Artillery, at Cawnpore; Left Wing 36th Regiment, +Moradabad; Head-Quarters 36th Regiment, Peshawur, from whence +ultimately we find he started for Kashmir in the hope of regaining his +health, a vain hope as events proved, as he died on the passage home at +Malta. During the course of publication I have received many letters +from people who were personally acquainted with Mr. Foster who had met +him at home and abroad, from the tone of which letters I gather he was +held in the highest possible estimation as a friend, a medical man, and +an officer. I am indebted to the kindness of his father, Dr. John L. +Foster, of this island, for being allowed to publish these interesting +memorials of one who had now passed "To where beyond these voices there +is peace."</p> + +<p class="smcap">Lizzie A. Freeth.</p> +<p>Montpellier, Guernsey, Nov. 1873.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="AUTHORS_PREFACE" id="AUTHORS_PREFACE"></a>AUTHOR'S PREFACE.</h2> + + +<p>This Work requires few prefatory remarks. I have transcribed without +alteration, the Diary that I kept during my visit to Kashmir. It may +seem a strange jumble of description and sentiment, jocularity and +seriousness. During the greater part of each day I enjoyed perfect rest, +smoking and thinking—sometimes soberly, often I fear idly—and for mere +occupation sake, my thoughts were written as they arose. My mind as +influenced by scene or incident, is fully exposed in these pages, and +while I have concealed nothing, neither have I added to that which I +originally indited. I am necessarily, and indeed intentionally +egotistical, because I write for those who will chiefly value a personal +narrative. Still, I am not ashamed if others see my book, although I +would deprecate their criticism by begging them to remember that I only +offer it for the perusal of those near and dear to me.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> + + +<p>In the early morning of Midsummer's-day, 1868, I might have been seen +slowly wending my way towards the office of the Deputy Inspector General +of Hospitals, at Peshawur—for the purpose of appearing before the +standing Medical Committee of the station, and having an enquiry made +concerning the state of my health. A Dooley followed me lest my strength +should prove inadequate to the task of walking a quarter of a mile. But +let me make my description as short as the Committee did their enquiry. +My face, as white as the clothes I wore, told more than my words could, +and I was hardly required to recount how that one burning May-day I was +called at noon to visit a sick woman, and that while all other Europeans +were in their closed and darkened bungalows with punkahs swinging, and +thermautidotes blowing cool breezes, I went forth alone on my medical +mission to encounter the fierce gaze of the baneful sun, and was +overpowered by its fiery influence, or how that I laid a weary month on +the sick bed, tormented by day with a never ceasing headache, and by +night with a terrible dread, worse than any pain, or to conclude, how +the deadly climate of that notoriously evil station afforded me no +prospect of improvement. This relation was scarcely needed to procure +me a certificate, stating that three months leave of absence to Murree +was absolutely essential for my recovery, and a recommendation that I +might be allowed to proceed immediately in anticipation of the leave +being granted. So the next evening saw me start from Peshawur for Rawul +Pindee, in a Dâk Gharie, accompanied by my dog "Silly" and my Madrapee +servant or "Boy." Onwards we sped at a gallop, the horses being changed +every six miles, through Nowshera, the furnace; over the rapid and icy +cold Indus by boat; past Fort Attock, the oven in which our soldiers are +done to death; and Hussan Aboul of Lallah Rooke celebrity; arriving at +the French Hotel at Pinder, ten miles from Peshawur the following +morning. That day I called upon the Officers of the 6th Foot, with whom +I had served in Jersey, and was persuaded to dine at mess. A melancholy +dinner it was for me, meeting old friends whom I had not seen for so +long. Yet not possessing energy enough for conversation or feeling the +spirit of "Hail fellows, well met." I felt that my moody silence and +ghostlike appearance (for I was dressed in black) threw a gloom over +them. This was no doubt a morbid fancy as also was perhaps the idea that +they looked at me with pitying eyes. But these feelings seized me, and +increased till they became unbearable, and I was glad to escape to my +Hotel.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="THREE_MONTHS_OF_MY_LIFEquot" id="THREE_MONTHS_OF_MY_LIFEquot"></a>"THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE."</h2> + +<h3>A DIARY.</h3> + + +<p>JULY 4th, 1868.—Started from Murree for Kashmir at 5.30 a.m. Bell, +Surgeon 36th Regt. [Since deceased] came with me four miles. Walked on +expecting the dandy to overtake me, but it did not, and I marched all +the way, nine miles up a steep hill to Khaira Gullee, where I halted and +put up in one of the old sheds formerly used by the working party when +the road was being made. I am not tired, though my left heel is +blistered, which is fair considering I have not walked half a mile for +more than a month. The road is excellent and the scenery fine, the Khuds +being sometimes deep, but nothing like the eastern Himalayas. The forest +too is quite different, fir trees predominating here. Saw many beautiful +birds, and regretted I had not brought my gun. In the evening a +thunderstorm came on with a cold wind from the north, so I made a good +fire with a few fir logs. In the middle of the night the storm became +very violent, and large hailstones fell.</p> + + +<p>JULY 5th.—Got away at sunrise, the rain having quite cleared off, and +marched on to Doonga Gullee, up a hill to an elevation of 9,000 feet, +and then down again to about 7,000; then up a final steep to Doonga +Gullee, 8,000 feet above the sea. The Khuds much grander very deep and +precipitous, sometimes falling one or two thousand feet from the edge of +the road almost perpendicularly. But the hills are too close together to +allow the valleys to be termed magnificent. Reached Doonga Gullee at 10 +a.m. The length of last march, eleven miles—the road, a good military +one, has been cut in the face of the mountain. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, and dined with the officers of the working party; among them +Heath, of the 88th, and Leggatt and Lyons, of the 77th, whom I knew. A +number of tents are pitched here for the working parties from the 19th +and 77th Regiments (road making). I was carried part of the march in my +dandy—a piece of carpet gathered at each end and hooked to a pole,—the +pole being carried on the shoulders of two men. I swung below it just +off the ground, and could often look down a vast depth between my knees. +My first pickled tongue, cooked the day before yesterday was fly-blown +at breakfast this morning. This may seem a trifling note, but it is +ominous I fear for the whole of my salted stores.</p> + + +<p>JULY 6th.—Got up at 4 o'clock and marched on to Bugnoota, a distance +of thirteen miles. The first four miles a slight rise, and then a rapid +descent all the rest of the way. The road is much narrower, only a mule +track in fact, I walked twelve miles, and then felt tired, and had a +headache afterwards. Pitched my tent in a tope, (a grove of trees) in +company with Dr. and Mrs. Holmes, of Rohat, whom I did not know. Slight +rain in the middle of the day, but it cleared off towards evening. Felt +all right after an hour's sleep and took a stroll before dinner. Scenery +grand, tent pitched on the edge of a deep gorge at the bottom of which +is a mountain stream, the hills rising abruptly on the opposite side.</p> + + +<p>JULY 7th.—Marched on to Abbottabad at sunrise, down hill to the river, +and then along its course for two miles over very rough and fatiguing +ground, the river having to be forded twice. In rainy weather this is +very dangerous as its rush is so impetuous. Up hill again then down into +the plain of Abbottabad, 4,000 feet above the sea. Distance twelve miles +though only put down eight in the route. Met the General at the bottom +of the hill. Put up at the Dâk Bungalow, and met Ford, 88th, and De +Marylski, R.A., returning from Kashmir, got some hints from them. +Abbottabad is a small cantonment on a large plain surrounded by bare +mountains, a notice is posted in my room warning travellers not to go +unarmed; so I'll gird on my Kookery to-morrow. A Kookery is a formidable +native knife, about eighteen inches long and over two inches wide, +carried in a peculiar way, sheep and goats heads come off very easily at +a single blow from it. Much hotter down here, the sun powerful after 10 +o'clock, but Punkahs not necessary. This is the Head-Quarters of the +Punjab Frontier force. A pity they do not have an English Regiment +stationed here as it is a very pleasant place as regards climate. Snow +in winter, and this the warmest time of the year quite bearable. +Brigadier gone to the <i>hills</i> for the <i>hot weather.</i> Took in supplies of +bread and butter and purchased a pair of chuplus or sandals for +marching in, as boots hurt my feet.</p> + + +<p>JULY 8th.—A long tedious march of nearly fifteen miles to Mansera, put +down in the guide as a level plain road, but having a good many ups and +downs. One of my sandals broke, and I was obliged to ride in the dandy +about half way. Some difficulty occurred in getting my baggage off as +the Coolies did not come. Left my boy to manage it, he came in about +noon with two ponies, I shall not pay for them yet, and then they will +come on with me. A warmer day than yesterday. Mountains rising up in +front, which I shall begin to ascend to-morrow if I make the whole march +of twenty miles. Snow visible above all. The real work of the trip will +now soon commence. The marches hitherto have been child's play compared +with those to come. Mansera is only a native village, but there is a Dâk +Bungalow, in which I am now. Met Captain Ellis, of the 4th Hussars, +returning from Kashmir, and had a talk with him. There are <i>two</i> routes +open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by +the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as +to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has +only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for +I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast +with the plains of India.</p> + + +<p>JULY 9th.—Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to +Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in +sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on. +First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an +undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking +owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it +as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to +Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance +rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by +high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting +of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at +the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dâk +Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank +of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension +bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I +look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are +two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have +not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell +all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under +flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of +ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a +small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight +feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin, +salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one +bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy +or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking +utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with +white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap, +tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into +Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voilà tout." For carrying this baggage, +I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable, +seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going +all the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day, +and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent some +Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian +fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without +much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as +of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant +music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time +in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been +altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen +and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few +men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate, +when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many experiences +to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully done up towards +the end of the march. At last we came to a running stream in which he +laid down and was much refreshed, before that his panting had become +gasping though he kept up with us bravely, only lying down for a moment +when we came to a little bit of shade—not often met with, the last +three or four miles. For the last day or two, I have been almost +continually in a cool, gentle perspiration, this is a great contrast to +my state when at Peshawur, where my skin was always as dry as a bone, +and I look upon that as a healthy symptom, I have had no headache since +I left Bugnostan.</p> + + +<p>JULY 10th.—To Mozufferabad nine miles, but apparently much more, such a +bad fatiguing march. I got away with the first grey of the dawn and +after a mile's tramp began the ascent of the Doabbuller pass, three and +a half miles long and very steep, so steep that I could often touch the +ground with my hands without stooping much. This was terribly exhausting +and I had to make many halts to recover my breath. Then began a rough +descent along the side of a mountain torrent and afterwards over its +bed, which is a narrow gorge between high hills. This walking was very +rough and difficult; the path being covered with great stones and often +undistinguishable. Indeed it was no path at all, only the ground +occasionally a little trodden. Through the stream, backwards and +forwards <i>innumerable</i> times we went. I found that my feet, though naked +except where covered by the straps of the sandals, were able to take +care of themselves, and avoid contusion almost without the help of my +eyes. Then I came to a large and rapid river called the Kishun-gunga +crossed by a rope bridge. Let me describe the bridge. Three or four +leather ropes about one inch in diameter tied into a bundle to walk +upon, three feet above this, a couple of ropes, two feet apart, the +upper ropes connected to the lower one at intervals of four or five +yards by stakes. This formed a V shape, and you walk on the point of the +V and hold on by the two sides. The breadth of the river is sixty yards, +and the bridge which is high above the water forms a considerable curve. +The description of the bridge is easy enough, but how shall I describe +my feelings, when I had gone a few yards and found myself poised in +mid-air like a spider on a web, oscillating, swaying backwards and +forwards over a foaming and roaring torrent, the rush of the water if I +looked at my feet, made me feel as if I was being violently carried in +the opposite direction; the bridge swayed and jumped with the weight of +half a dozen natives coming from the opposite side whom I had to pass, +the whole thing seemed so weak and the danger so terrible that I turned +giddy, lost my head, and cried out to be held. A firm hand at once +grasped me behind and another in front. I shut my eyes and so proceeded +a few yards. Then those dreadful men had to be passed. Imagine meeting +a man on a rope fifty feet above a torrent and requiring him to "give +you the wall." However they were passed by a mysterious interlacing of +feet; and when half way over I regained confidence, and bid the men +"chando" or release me, and so gained the opposite bank, where I sat +down and roared with laughter at my "boy" who was then coming over, and +who evidently was much more affected than I was. However he arrived +safely with his black face <i>pale</i>, dripping with perspiration and saying +he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one +in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally +laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go +down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low +ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by +the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge, +for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow +built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves +the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet +weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's +Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from +him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book. +There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the +bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick. +It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream. +Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated +Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for +carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they +were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite side. +To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their +impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to certain +destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the whole +of this march, though often tired, as I preferred trusting my own legs +to being carried in the dandy over such bad ground. Curran, +Assistant-Surgeon, 88th Connaught Rangers, is one march in front of me. +He has left his pony here till he returns. I suppose the last march was +too much for him. I am very glad I did not bring my horse with me; I was +strongly advised to do so, but I am afraid advice has not much weight +with me; in this instance anyhow, my own opinion has proved the best. +All the men I meet coming back have horses with them, but they are +nearly all shoeless, lame and sick, and have not been ridden for weeks.</p> + + +<p>JULY 11th.—Marched on Hultian, distant seventeen miles. Much better +road than yesterday, but many ups and downs and short rough bits. +Started two hours before sunrise, by the light of the moon. The road +soon reached the right bank of the Jhelum and continued the whole +distance alongside of that river. It is a rapid river apparently not so +deep and often not so wide as the Kishun-gunga, its bed strewn with huge +boulders over which the water breaks in great waves of foam. It runs in +a narrow rocky channel the precipitous sides of which are a great +height. How many ages must it have taken to cut this channel in the +solid rock? The valley is bounded by high hills, very narrow, the road +so bare of trees, that the latter half of the march became hot and +wearying, so I had recourse to the dandy for four or five miles. But it +was rare gymnastic exercise as swinging from my pole I had to dodge the +great stones on either side of me and keep a sharp look out to avoid +hard bumps. My dog was again very much fatigued. His tail is a good +token of his state, for when fresh it is stiff along his back, and +gradually drops as he goes along until he is quite exhausted, when it +hangs straight down. Stopped at a Barahduree (not so good a one as the +last) a few feet above the Jhelum in which I bathed. There is a rope +bridge opposite, a much older one than the other I crossed, but not more +than half as long, and not high above the water, some of the ropes are +broken, and it seems very shaky. However, I must cross it to-morrow and +get into the Murree road, which runs parallel to this one, on the other +bank, and is on the shady side and much cooler. It has been very hot all +day. The reason I could not come the direct road from Murree is because +the ferry over the Jhelum lower down, was recently carried away and +twenty-six natives drowned. Sir G. Larpent's (of the 88th) baggage was +in the boat, and he lost it all. He had not crossed and had to go back +to Murree minus everything including servants. There is excellent +Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of +80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me, +and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do +anything but moon about. I did not then know the great exertion +necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily +infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with +an undertaker. Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and +supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must +keep to it and not cross as I intended. In the evening a slim young +native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, "a +present." I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and +plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below +the bungalow. He then went up the river again, and swam down to this +side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous +velocity. I gave him eight annas for it.</p> + + +<p>JULY 12th, "Sunday."—In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was +sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning +to rain, and I had to move into the house. It was broad daylight when I +was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed. I said it would rain, and +I would halt. My boy said, "No Sir, no rain." I said the sun would come +out and it would be burning hot. He said, "No Sir, no sun." I felt it +was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda, +eighteen miles, walking all the way. A hard march, nothing but steep +rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the +river, but two or three hundred feet above it. My Coolies pointed out to +me a herd of "chiken" on a very high hill, at least four miles away. I +saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to +very small objects, but did not dispute with them. They say uncivilized +man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far +higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect. Met three +men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them. Don't know who +they were. Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and +was delighted to see it was quite close to me. But alas! several weary +miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could +be reached. This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future +put no faith in appearances. The Barahduree here is a two storied one, +standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is +here confined in a very narrow channel. I took the upper room which has +three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which +there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains +being crowned with pine forests. Had neither sun nor rain while +marching, but soon afterwards the sun shone out, though heavy and +threatening clouds continued to hang about the horizon. As I write this +I hear the first roll of thunder, there will be another storm to-night. +The Maharajah's officials come to me at every stage to enquire my wants +and provide for the same. Other natives also come with an insane +request,—a medical prescription for a sick Bhai (or brother) who +always has fever, and is at a great distance. What possible use a +prescription could be to them I cannot decide. The storm came up just +before dinner, 6 p.m., and was rather sharp but soon over. I came up the +valley of the Jhelum, and I watched its course for some time before it +arrived. It subsequently struck the edge of the house and I was all +right; had it come down the valley which runs at right angles to the +Jhelum just opposite here I should have been blown out. I again noticed +that to which my attention has often been directed, viz.: that when in +or near the storm clouds, the thunder is of quite a different character +to that heard below. It is a continuous low muttering growl without any +claps or peals. I have stood in the storm cloud at Sinchal, 9,000 feet +high, with the lightning originating around me and affording the +sublimest spectacle of dazzling brilliancy, and varying in colour from +the purest white light to delicious rose and blue tints. I have seen it +intensified and focussed as it were within a few feet of me, and from +this centre angled lines and balls of fire like strings of beads +radiated in all directions. Yet the thunder which in the plains was +heard pealing and roaring its loudest, was up there barely audible.</p> + + +<p>JULY 13th.—From Kunda to Kuthin twelve miles of hard toiling over a +similar road to that of the last march, finishing with a long, steep, +and very rough ascent to the high plateau on which Kuthin stands. On the +top of this I took to my dandy and was carried a mile along the level to +the Barahduree, where I slept upon the charpoy which is provided at +every bungalow for the weary travellers to rest upon pending the arrival +of his baggage. These plateaus or table lands exist at intervals all the +way up the valley, sometimes on one side sometimes on the other and +occasionally on both the river in the middle. They are quite flat, very +small, and highly productive, and vary from fifty to three or four +hundred feet in height, above the river. The valley which widens where +they exist, is narrowed again at either extremity. I can only account +for their formation by supposing that at a former time, a chain of lakes +existed, of which they are the beds, and that the water subsequently +burst through and formed the channel of the present Jhelum, leaving +these beds dry as we now see them. Came across a number of large tailed +butterflies of a lovely green and blue metallic lustre. Secured an +un-injured specimen, and for want of a better place stuck it inside my +topee, where I expect to carry it safely until my return to Peshawur. +Another storm came on earlier than yesterday. I have been very lucky +hitherto, not having had a drop of rain while marching. This morning was +cloudy till within a mile or two of Kuthin when the sun shone and made +the last ascent doubly trying. This is a very small village (at Kunda +there was only one hut) but there is a mud fort with bastions at each +corner but no guns. The walls are loop-holed for musketry, but there +does not seem to be any garrison. On making enquiries, I find there is a +garrison of seven men. It is getting dusk and mosquitoes are coming out +by hundreds, they have not annoyed me before, but I think I must use my +net to-night. I lie on my bed after dinner smoking with a lighted candle +by my side. A hornet flies in and settles on my hand, then a large +beetle comes with a buzz and a thud against me, making me start. Sundry +moths, small flies, and beetles, are playing innocently round the flame. +In half an hour I shall be able to make a fair entomological collection +but as I neither (Ha! I've killed the hornet) desire them in my hat +dead, nor in my bed alive, I must put out the light, give up writing, +and smoke in darkness.</p> + + +<p>JULY 14th.—To Shadera, twelve miles walked all the way. The road worse +than ever, and for the last mile actually dangerous, as it passed along +the edge of a deep precipice, and was only a foot wide and considerably +out of the horizontal, so that a single false step would have been +fatal. Road continued same character all the way along, though much +above the tortuous and noisy Jhelum, and its ups and downs were the +roughest, longest, and most trying, I have yet experienced. I am pleased +to know that the remaining two marches will be, in the words of my +Coolies over "uch'-cha rasta," a good road. It remained cloudy and +threatening the greater part of the way, and a little rain fell, but +eventually the sun shone, though great masses of "cumuli" continue to +hang about. This is a small village completely shut in by three huge +hills standing very close together. Between the sides of the two in +front, the summit of a fourth is visible, a magnificent towering +mountain, covered with a dense pine forest. I have not seen the snows +since I crossed the Doobbullee pass, as we have been ascending the +valley of the Jhelum ever since, and the view is confined by its lofty +sides. I have eaten my last loaf for breakfast this morning, and now one +of the greatest privations of the journey will begin. No bread, nothing +but flour and water made into a kind of pancake, which the natives call +"chepattie." I have not tasted fresh meat since I left Abbottabad, but +that one can do very well without. I live upon fowls, eggs, milk, butter +and rice, with a tongue or hump, cooked when necessary. Two or three +miles from Kuthai, we passed a very pretty waterfall. The slender stream +fell over a smooth perpendicular rock, of a rich brown colour, 100 feet +high, like a thread of silver. Both sides of the gorge covered with a +variety of beautifully green trees, shrubs and ferns, altogether +constituting a delightful picture, the tints mingled so harmoniously, +yet with strong contrasts. Stopped at the Barahduree as usual, this one +surrounded with wild fig, plum, peach, pomegranate, and mulberry trees. +The mulberries only ripe, and like all wild fruit, small and +comparatively tasteless.</p> + + +<p>JULY 15th.—Started as soon as it was light for Gingle, fourteen miles +distant. Road greatly improved, hilly of course, but tolerably smooth so +that one could get on without clambering. About half way passed Dorie on +the left bank of the river, where there is another fort and a strong +rope bridge, it is one of the halts on the Murree road, farther on came +to an old ruin, four thick walls perforated by arches enclosing an open +square in the middle of two of the sides, large masses of masonry formed +archways or entrances. It is built of the rough stones and boulders with +which the surface of the ground is covered, yet the arches are of very +good shape. On the opposite bank of the Jhelum there are forests of +Deodar, but though they grow down to the waters edge, there is not one +on this side. (Larix Deodora, called by the Hindoos, "the God Tree" is a +stately pine, growing to a great height, and of a very gradual and +elegant taper. Its foliage is of the darkest green colour, and it gives +the mountains a very sombre appearance.) The hills have become much more +rugged and abrupt. I know of no single condition which gives a scene so +great an aspect of wildness and desolation, as dead fir trees. There +they stand on the most barren and inaccessible places, rearing their +gaunt and whitened forms erect as ever, and though lifeless yet not +decayed. Seared and blasted by a thousand storms, they stand stern and +silent, ghostlike and immoveable, scorning the elements. No wind murmurs +pleasantly through their dead and shrunken branches, the howling tempest +alone can make them speak, and then with wild straining shriek and harsh +rattle, they do battle with the whirlwind. It was getting hot and I was +thinking of my dandy, when a storm passed over with heavy rain. This was +a mitigated evil (if an evil at all for my bed remained dry, and a wet +bed is the worst result of a shower) as it rendered walking cool and +pleasant. It cleared up again, and I rode the last half mile. The +cleanest and best bungalow here I have been in since I left Ghuri. The +view down the valley is extremely pretty, hills rising one above the +other, but shut in on all other sides by high mountains. Gingle, which +is only one or two huts, stands on a small plateau a quarter of a mile +long by one hundred and fifty yards wide, fifty feet above the Jhelum. +The ground is laid out in paddy fields irrigated by a stream of the +coolest and purest water. It is a great satisfaction to be able to drink +water freely without fear. In the plains of India the water is so +contaminated as to be almost poisonous, and I do not think that previous +to this march I had drank a gallon of it since I landed in Calcutta.</p> + + +<p>JULY 16th.—Left Gingle with the earliest streak of dawn for Baramula, +an eighteen mile march. Road very much more level, never ascending high +above the river whose erratic course we continued to follow. Passed +through groves of hazel overrun by wild vines, but both grapes and nuts +as yet green. The plateaus become gradually larger and almost +continuous, and the hills separated and diminished in size, those on the +right being covered with the lank deodar, while those on the left +possessed only a bright green mantle of grass, far away in front they +altogether ended, and the open sky above the valley was alone visible. +And now an unusual occurrence presented itself. We were following the +stream upwards towards its source, yet at every mile it increased in +width and became more placid, till at length its surface was unbroken, +and it assumed the form of a magnificent river, wider than the Thames at +Richmond. The hills continued provokingly to overlap one another as +though anxious to shut in and hide the happy valley from sight. But at +length I discerned a far distant white cloud which I guessed betokened +the summit of a mountain, and a few yards further revealed a faint +glistening opaque line which the inexperienced eye would have certainly +taken for a portion of the cloud, but which could not be mistaken by one +who had before seen the snows. About half a mile from Buramula we +obtain the first view of the Vale of Kashmir, but not an extensive one, +as it is obstructed on either side by low hills. However, what is seen +is very pretty. A large level plain traversed by a broad smooth river +which has now lost its tortuous zig-zag course and bounded by the +everlasting snows covering the main backbone of the Himalayas. At the +head of the valley stands the quaint looking town of Baramula surrounded +by hills on all sides but one, embowered in trees and intersected by the +Jhelum, across which there is a good wooden bridge. The houses have +mostly an upper story, and are built of wood with gabled roofs. The +streets are narrow and roughly paved, and I regret to say are not more +pleasant to the nostrils than are those of other Indian towns. The +bridge built of deodar wood, beams of which are driven into the bed of +the river, and then others laid horizontally upon them, each row at +right angles to and projecting beyond the layer beneath, till a +sufficient height has been reached, six of these and two stone piers +form the buttresses of the bridge and a broad pathway of planks connects +them. The march was a fatiguing one on account of its length, and I used +the dandy freely. I shall however discard it altogether for the future. +I went to the Barahduree but found it occupied by a man whose name I was +told was "——," had been there five days. His Coolies had taken +possession of all the rooms, and though I was very angry and inclined to +turn them out, I thought my tent would be preferable to a room just +vacated by the uncleanly native, so I went to an orchard close by, +surrounded by a row of fine poplars, and patiently awaited the arrival +of my baggage which was a long time coming. The gate was guarded by the +Maharajah's sepoys who endeavoured to prevent my entrance. The Thikadar +told me he had no authority for this, but had done it "Zubbur-dustee." +They also say that the occupant of the Barahduree has just come from +England. He is a being shrouded in mystery, and I shall endeavour to +unravel it. My first step will be to report the occurrence to the +officials at S—— when I get there. I took a swim in the Jhelum, whose +course I have now followed for eighty-four crooked miles, and on whose +bosom I shall to-morrow continue my journey.</p> + + +<p>JULY 17th.—By boat up the river, the day so bright, the view so +glorious, the breeze so balmy and delicious, and the motion so gentle +and pleasant, that lying on my bed I devote myself to lazy listlessness, +to a perfect sense of the "dolce far niente" and can hardly prevail on +myself to disturb my tranquillity by writing these few notes. The +contrast to my thirteen heavy marches is so great that I am content to +remain for the present without thought or action, enjoying absolute +rest. Evening—We halt at Sopoor, and now let me endeavour to continue +the diary. Got up at seven this morning and sent for a boat, one of the +larger kind about thirty feet long, and six feet broad in the middle, +the centre portion covered with an awning made of grass matting. The +crew consisting of an entire family, from the elderly parents to quite +young children—9 in all. I was towed up the still widening river by all +of them in turns, one wee girl not three feet high being most energetic, +though I should think of little real service. Boat flat bottomed, and +alike at both ends, they use paddles instead of oars. But the scene! I +am unable now to do justice to it, so I will only give the outlines to +be elaborated hereafter. Splendid river—verdant plain covered with many +varieties of trees, poplar and chenar or tulip tree the most +conspicuous, extending as far as the eye can reach and enclosed by lofty +snow capped mountains, on which rest the clouds of heaven. Bright blue +King-fishers darting like flashes of light or hovering hawk-like before +the plunge after fish and the many hued dragon flies upon the water +weeds. Among the several varieties of the weeds, I noticed a great +quantity of "Anacharis." Got fresh mutton and apple-pie for dinner. +Swarms of very minute flies came to the candle dancing their dance of +death. Many thousands were destroyed, and their bodies darkened the +board which serves me for a table. Sopoor like Baramula, river bridged, +and grass growing on the roofs of the houses.</p> + + +<p>JULY 18th.—In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was +awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended +to ascend, and get a <i>coup d'oeil</i> of the valley. Instead of being on a +river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the +largest in Kashmir. Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half +way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not +mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of +the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great +portion of the view. Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I +shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which +rise very near the water. We are thirty miles from Baramula. The lake is +in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes +it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a +curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft +delicately flavoured kernel—heart-shaped, as big as a filbert. +Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their +crimson feast. Alsoo—a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains. +Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water.</p> + + +<p>JULY 19th, Sunday.—On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left +my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and +only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only +four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work. +For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above +Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with +butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would +"keep master cool." As we rose—the vale spread out magnificently +beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under +the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain. +Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks +covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its +surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well +rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main +valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains, +spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its +many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air +laden with the perfume of many flowers. My Bheisties even exclaimed +"bahut ach chtu." I gazed entranced. The descent was long but a much +better path. Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were +as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a +small yellow plum which was very nice. Arrived at Lalpore the principal +village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very +common) covered with its nuts. This valley abounds with bears, I was +certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to +the ascent being less steep and the path shady. Saw a magnificent +butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but +like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at +the very moment I thought I had secured it. Got a fine one of a commoner +sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured.</p> + + +<p>JULY 20th.—I halt at Salpore, awaiting the arrival of my Sirdar dandy +coolie, an intelligent, useful, Kashmiree man, whom I engaged to +continue with me as a servant at Baramula, and gave him four days leave +to visit his home, arranging that he should rejoin me here. I lie under +the shade of the wide spreading walnut trees, inhaling the fragrant +breeze, and enjoying perfect quietude and repose. All is so grand and +peaceful, that my heart swells with holy thoughts of praise and +gratitude to the Almighty Creator, and while gazing on one of the +fairest portions of his great work I find myself unconsciously repeating +the glorious psalm "O come let us sing unto the Lord." It would indeed +be a hard heart and a dull spirit that did not rejoice in the scene, and +acknowledge the power and magnificence of its maker. I see around me +this garden of Kashmir where every tree bears fruit for the use of man, +and every shrub, bright flowers for his enjoyment. Enclosed and guarded +by "the strength of the hills" (a noble sentence which never never +before so forcibly impressed me) and covered by the purest of blue +skies. All nature seems to say to me "To-day if ye hear his voice, +harden not your hearts," and surely the "still small voice" is speaking, +and can be heard by those who will heed it, and have the heart to feel +and the soul to rejoice in the strength of their salvation. The memory +of the beautiful duett in "Haydn's Creation," when newly made Adam and +Eve unite in praising God and extolling his wonderful works comes +freshly before me. Now, something akin to this must have crossed the +mental vision of the grand old Maestro when he wrote; and its calm +glorious music well accords with my present state of mind.</p> + + +<p>JULY 21st.—A pleasant stroll of ten miles before breakfast to +Koomerial along the level valley, through shady groves of apple, pear, +green-gage, peach, and mulberry trees, and forests of cherry trees +drooping with the weight of their golden blushing fruit. I have not seen +any vines in the Solab. Koomerial is a very small place, and I had a +little difficulty in getting supplies. I ought to have gone three miles +further to a large village; but I'll go there to-morrow, and then return +to Alsoo in two marches. A native came to me with the toothache, begging +assistance, but the tooth required extracting and I could do nothing for +him. Pitched under a walnut tope—the climate delicious, like a warm +English summer, but it is rather hot in my small tent in the middle of +the day; so I have my Charpoy put outside in the shade and lie there +smoking my pipe and thinking. I have spoken of the beauties and +pleasures of the Solab, but I must not omit mention of its annoyances, +flies and mosquitoes, by day the flies abound and cause much irritation +to any exposed part of the body. I do hate tame flies, flies that though +driven away twenty times elude capture, and will pertinaciously return +to the same spot—say your nose—until one is driven nearly mad with +vexation. At dusk the flies return to roost, and then myriads of +mosquitoes emerge from their hiding places, and make night hideous with +their monotonous hum and blood-thirsty propensities. I do not find +chepatties so bad as I expected, indeed I rather like them, but then my +boy makes them excellently well, using soda in their composition. The +process of manufacture is not pleasant—the flour is made into a paste, +and then flattened and consolidated by being thrown backwards and +forwards from one hand to the other, though one may avoid seeing this, +it is difficult to escape hearing the pit-pat of the soft dough as it +passes rapidly between the Khitmutgars extended, and I fear not always +clean fingers, it is then toasted, brought in hot, and you may eat it +dirt and all. But travellers must not be too particular, and so long as +your food is wholesome, eat and be thankful. But here comes my dinner, +with the chepatties I have just seen prepared, and which sight suggested +the foregoing lines. Chicken for breakfast, chicken for dinner, chicken +yesterday, chicken to-morrow, <i>toujours</i> chicken, sometimes curried, +sometimes roasted, torn asunder and made into soup, stew or cutlets, or +with extended wing forming the elegant spatchcock, it is still chicken; +the greatest and rarest change being that it is occasionally rather +tender. I have had chicken soup and roast fowl for dinner, the chicken +in the soup as stringy as hemp, the fowl as tough as my sandal, and with +so large a liver that I doubted whether the bird had not met with a +violent death. I like fowl's liver, it is my one <i>bonne bouche</i> during +the day, but these startled me, and after straining my teeth on the +carcase, I gladly swallow the soft mouthful. Oh! English readers, you +who have never wandered far from your native shores and who esteem +chickens a luxury to put on your supper table at your festive +gatherings, come to India and surfeit on your dainties, you will see it +calmly collecting its daily food unsuspicious of danger, then comes the +rush and loud clacking as it flies pursued by the ferocious native, +ending with cries of despair and the fluttering and hoarse gurgle of its +death throes, in half an hour Murghi will be placed before you hot and +tempting to the eye but hard as nails to the touch; they are cheap in +this part of the world. I pay one anna (or three halfpence) for a +chicken, or two annas for a full grown fowl.</p> + + +<p>JULY 22nd.—A little march of three miles to Koopwaddie. I am glad I +came here for one or two reasons. In the first place the walk afforded +me a nearer and finer view of the head of the valley, surmounted by its +high and rugged snow peaks; and secondly, I find I can return from here +to Sopoor in two marches instead of going back over the old road. From +Sopoor I shall boat to Alsoo. The range which at Lalpore was on the +further side of the valley has gradually approached the other hills +until now they are only a quarter of a mile apart, and are connected by +short low spurs which I crossed this morning. My road to-morrow will be +behind the first mentioned range, where another portion of the valley +lies. The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous +ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles. The two +portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie +is situated at their junction. The Solab proper is only the eastern arm +which is formed into a <i>cul de sac</i> by the mountains, and in which +Lalpore stands.</p> + + +<p>JULY 23rd.—To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley +rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab. Over a low range of +hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of +the Pohroo river. Not finding a good place on that side I forded the +river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth +green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank. Fine view from the +top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with +the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance. This plain is laid +out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages. +The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are +to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds.</p> + + +<p>JULY 24th.—A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed +and uninteresting road to Sopoor. There were but few trees to afford any +shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you +know it is impossible to sit down. From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles) +by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water +lilies. At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my +breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a +procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something +surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see +what it was. It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no +doubt very holy. A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting +loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not +unpleasing melody. They were praying for rain which is rare in this +country, and which is now required for the crops. My boy returned +bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton. Stopped at +Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed. +Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very +cranky.</p> + + +<p>JULY 25th.—Started early for Alsoo. Found my old boat where I had left +it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep +to, as the boatman is a much more useful fellow than the other man. He +acts as a servant, knows all the places I am going to, including +Ummernath, and has many excellent characters from those who have +employed him. There was such a scene when my intentions were made known +to the other crew, at first with tears and folded hands they +supplicated, but when that proved useless they took to cursing and +gesticulating, which they continued as their boat moved away and so long +as they were within hearing, screaming across the water, making faces, +and shaking their fists aloft; the old man was especially violent, it +was very laughable. My present crew consists of the man I have +mentioned, three good looking young woman, one of whom has the hooping +cough, and a variety of children I have not yet made out the different +relations to each other. There was lightning and some heavy rain last +night (the result no doubt of yesterday's ceremony) and the sky is still +gloomy and overcast. On from Alsoo after Chota Hazree or first breakfast +to Lunka, a small island, which is only fifty yards square, is thickly +covered with pine trees, with trailing grape vines clinging around their +boughs, on it stands an old ruin, and fallen pillars and carved stones +litter the ground. From a distance it looked very lovely, floating as +it were on the bosom of the open waters, but as we neared it an +unpleasant odour became perceptible, rapidly increasing to a horrid +stench. This proceeded from a colony of natives who were in temporary +habitation of the island, and were engaged in catching and drying the +fish with which the lake abounds. I landed however, but was soon forced +to beat a rapid retreat. Such a mass of all kinds of filth crowded in so +small a space, I have never before witnessed. Man is ever the plague +spot of the world, where he is not, all is peace, and beauty, with his +presence comes contamination and discord. Saw many a whistling seal in +one part of the lake. The water soon became contracted into a narrow +channel, with a low bank on either side, after travelling a few miles +more we reached the broad Jhelum above its entrance into the lake. +Remained for the night at Hajun.</p> + + +<p>JULY 26th, Sunday.—Moved on in the morning to Manusbul, a small lake +connected with the river by a canal. This lake is about three miles long +and one mile wide, it is very deep in the middle, and said by the +natives to be unfathomable. In one of the Hindoo Legends we are told a +story of a holy man who spent all his life endeavouring to make a rope +long enough to reach to the bottom, and failing, at length threw +himself in and was never seen again. My boatman to give me an idea of +its depth, dropped in white pebbles which could be seen for a long time +sinking in the clear green water, until they gradually disappeared from +sight. I longed to take a plunge into the cool fluid, and Ungoo +evidently read my wish in my looks, for he proposed that I should gussul +or bathe. The presence of three women however proved too much for my +modesty, and I refrained, although I have no doubt that had I not done +so their feelings would not have been in the least outraged. Very +handsome water lilies (lotus) on the surface of the lake, the flowers +being of a delicate pink colour with a yellow centre, and as large as +the crown of a man's hat. At the further extremity, a high hill rises +from the edge of the water. A stream is artificially conducted along its +face at a height of about fifty feet, and the surplus water escapes in +several pretty little cascades, by the side of one of them grow some +noble chenars. The bottom of the lake around the edges is very uneven, +and covered with a dense growth of mynophillum spicatum, on which +planorbus and other molluces graze and tiny fry pick their invisible +atoms of food. The elegant shape of this plant with its branching and +finely cut leaves, and the inequalities of the ground remind me of the +pine-clad hills in miniature. A brilliant king-fisher took the gunwale +of the boat as the "base of his operations," and I amused myself all the +morning, by watching him catch fish; when one approached the surface he +descended with a splash which I imagined would have driven every fish +far away, emerging quickly and very seldom without a capture, which he +turned head downwards and swallowed alive and whole, then looked round +with a laughable air of self-satisfaction. When the fish was a size too +large to be trifled with, he first polished it off by rapping its head +on the boards. It is now sunset, and that bird is still feeding, and +probably the day will end without deciding whether his appetite or his +capacity is the larger. A native brought me a dish of excellent +apricots and mulberries—the mulberries especially good, and my garden +is celebrated for the best peaches in Kashmir.</p> + + +<p>JULY 27th.—Up the Jhelum again, past Sumbul with its deodar bridge +(similar to the others described with this exception, that the footway +appears to be built in imitation of the roof of a house sloping on +either side from a high central ridge, not the best form of bridge I +have seen, but variety is charming) to the entrance of the Scind river, +where a chenar stands in the middle of the stream, protected by a square +block of masonry. Tradition says this tree never grows. Near it is a +small island over grown with trees. Here we left the Jhelum and pursued +the course of the Scind which soon contracted into a narrow and rapidly +flowing river, its water derived from the snows, being very cold. It was +slow work rowing against the strong current, but we presently emerged +into a great lake entirely covered with high rushes except where a +winding channel was cut for the boats, and here progression was slower +still as the rope had to be abandoned, and the pole called into +requisition, so that it was nearly dark when we reached Ganderbul. +Passed a number of men wading in the water up to their necks, and +spearing the ground with poles armed with a single barbed spike. +Although this seems an insane way of attempting to catch fish, their +boat was well laden with a small species of trout, and I saw several +drawn from the water impaled and wriggling upon the sharp point. +Sreenuggur seen in the distance at the extremity of a mountainous spur, +with the Fort and Soloman's Throne, standing upon two elevated rocks. +Within a few miles of Ganderbul the lake became clear, and presented a +fine expanse of water, but with so many shallows, that our course was +very tortuous. Having travelled twenty miles, we are now only five miles +from Manusbul. Ganderbul stands at the opening of the Scind valley, but +it was too late to take any observations when I arrived; so I must wait +until my return.</p> + + +<p>JULY 28th.—A march of nine miles up the valley to Kungan, taking with +me as before only four coolie loads of baggage; my boatman accompanies +me. Met Scott, of the 88th, three or four miles from Ganderbul, the +first European I have seen since the 12th. This is a narrow and +beautiful valley, down which the Scind river rushes foaming and roaring. +Its waters are icy cold and its colour also seems to partake of its +snowy origin, for it is white, not only with foam, but the water itself +in small quantities is as though it had come out of a milky jug. Grand +hills stand on either side, and up the valley I occasionally got +glimpses of high and rugged snow peaks. Several natives came to me with +different ailments, I gave them rough directions whereby to benefit, but +what they wanted was a gift of medicine (of which I have none.) They +fancy every Englishman is an adept in the art of healing, and that +English physic especially Tyrnhill's Pills, possesses magical powers.</p> + + +<p>JULY 29th.—To Toomoo, six miles, a shorter march than I intended, for +they told me at Kungan that Toomoo was twelve miles distant. However, +when I arrived, the temptation to stop was too strong to be resisted. In +marching one gets very weary about the sixth or seventh mile, but this +passes off, and you can then go on comfortably for almost any distance, +provided you resist the first feelings of fatigue, and do not give way +to it, as I have done to-day. The mountains are now huge towering +masses, rising thousands of feet above the valley; they have lost all +smoothness of outline, and their upper portions are bare and rough, +cragged, and pine clad. Instead of having merely whitened peaks, snow +fields extend down the sides. The scene is one of wild majestic +grandeur. What tremendous agonies in past ages must have been employed +to produce such vast upheavals. One cannot help contemplating with awe +the possibility of the world again becoming violently rent and shaken +to its foundations by the forces which though now comparatively inert, +still exist beneath us and occasionally give sad proof of their +undiminished power. In the present day the slow but continued action of +this subterranean power is in some parts perceptible (as in South +America) and we have no guarantee that it may not suddenly acquire +increased energy, and overwhelm our fairest lands with a run too +terrible to be imagined. Stinging nettles abound here, of the tall sort +that grow so rankly on old earth heaps and in dry ditches. I placed my +hand among them, delighted to be stung again by English friends; the +sensation is so far preferable to mosquito bites. Besides it took me +back to "childhood's happy hours," when with bramble torn breeches and +urticarious shin, I forced the hedges, apple stealing—I have stolen +apples to-day for a tart which is now baking—robbed the trees of them +for they are no man's property. Just above here on the other side of the +valley is a very perfect crater (of course extinct) for there are now no +volcanoes in the Himalayas. Its lips are rugged and serrated like the +teeth of a saw, and form a very perfect circle I cannot tell the depth +of the basin, but on the further side I can see that the edge rises +perpendicularly to a considerable height, and at the bottom of it I just +got a glimpse of a steeply sloping floor. On its exterior are deep +grooves containing strong blocks, which at this distance appear to show +by contrast of colour their igneous origin, but I cannot speak +positively on this point. My Bheistie to whom I gave three days leave to +visit his family, came in saying he had walked one hundred miles. He +does not look any the worse for it.</p> + + +<p>JULY 30th.—Another short march of five miles to Soorapra, a small +village around which stand several enormous hills, half obscured by +clouds, for it is a thoroughly wet day, drizzling rain having fallen +ever since my arrival. It is very cool and pleasant, but I have got up +too far and am now in the rainy region, so to-morrow I shall retrace my +steps, three or four marches would take me over the Himalayas into +Ladâk. This would be an interesting trip, but there still remains much +for me to see in Kashmir, and I have not time to do both. Passed +another, but smaller and less perfect crater. Some natives brought a +young black bear, which they had just caught to show me. It was no +larger than a good-sized dog, but had very long sharp claws; its +expression was anything but ferocious. A dense pine and walnut forest +extends down one of the hills to the verge of the village. I was +strolling in that direction, not a hundred yards from the huts—before +the arrival of my baggage—when two men ran after me and begged me to +come back on account of the number of tigers there. I imagined they +meant leopards, but on making enquiries I find cows are carried away, +which could not be done by leopards. This would be a good ground for the +sportsman, but no Europeans come here as it is off the regular track up +the valley. I crossed the river this morning by a ricketty bridge built +of a couple of firs, on which logs were loosely laid, leaving the main +road which runs along the other or right bank. Just behind my tent a +stream of deliciously cold and transparent water issues from the hill +side; a rough sort of shed is erected over it, and the water is +conducted a short distance in a wooden trough, from the end of which it +falls to the ground. It is the custom in Kashmir to build over the +springs and esteem them holy. No mosquitoes up here, delightful prospect +of a good night's rest.</p> + + +<p>JULY 31st.—Back to Kungan in one march, but did not encamp on the same +ground as before, as I found a better place by the side of the river. I +have been thinking all the morning about my future career, whether I +shall obtain the appointment in the Guards that I have applied for, (my +application has by this time reached England) if not, what will they do +with me when I get home, or shall I remain in the army? These questions +have been running in my head and occasionally a more delicate one +obtruded. Shall I marry, and if so, when and whom, and here, where all +my thoughts are revealed, I must needs confess that now at twenty-nine +years of age, I begin to weary of single blessedness, and long for a +fair, loving, and loveable companion. Now my gentle lady reader, here is +a chance for you, if you are content with honest love without adoration, +faithfulness without romance; for my romantic days have passed. I have +learnt the sober realities of life, and among them the truth of God's +declaration that it is not good for man to be alone. The <i>Saturday +Review</i> in recent articles, "The Girl of the Period, &c.," holds out a +poor prospect for the would be benedict, and I fear there is much truth +in the assertion that the majority of our young women are husband +hunting, that they make matrimony their one great object, and will +condescend to any means whereby to attain the personal independance +given them by that position, that these marriages without love, only +prompted by selfish considerations, are followed by a total neglect of +all wifely duties—nay more, that even maternal care and tenderness have +nearly ceased to exist. It is a sad picture, and sternly drawn. The +well-known power of the paper is put forth in its highest degree, and +withering sarcasm, and bitter contempt accompany its stern reproofs. +Yet there is a final wail of despair at the unlikelihood of any change +for good being effected. This evil like most others is of our own +making. We men no longer marry while young, but when middle-aged or with +grey hairs beginning to show, a man desires a wife, he will most likely +choose one five and twenty years his junior. The girl often marry thus +because she cannot get a husband of her own age, and a very few years +lost will doom her to perpetual spinsterhood. It is necessarily a +marriage without love, a lucky one if there be respect. Girls have +learnt that it is useless to bestow their affections where nature would +have them, and and it is scarcely a matter for surprise that they +should in consequence endeavour to repress them altogether. Moral for my +own use. Marry while I am young, or not at all.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 1st.—To Wangut nine miles rough and hilly walking. I lost the +path once, and had a long scramble before I regained it. Though not a +pleasant march the scenery is very fine and picturesque. Wangut lies up +a short and contracted valley, an offshoot of the Scind which is a much +larger one, and the mountains around it are very grand especially at the +head of the valley, I put up large coveys of grey partridge on the road. +I have come here for the purpose of visiting some mines two miles +further on, and I intend to halt to-morrow and walk to see them. There +is a great row going on while I write this, the natives appear unwilling +to furnish supplies (milk, eggs, &c.,) and my boatman who has +accompanied me is applying his stick freely by way of persuasion. There +is of course a Babel of tongues and I sit within a few yards, quietly +ignoring the proceeding, though if necessary, I shall get up and add +some lusty whacks as my share of the argument. A mountain torrent—a +tributary of the Scind runs down the valley with the usual noise and +hurly burly. A travelling native carpenter is here, and all the village +are bringing their ploughs to be mended, he is very clever with his +hoe-shaped hatchet fashioning the hard walnut wood so correctly with it, +that the chisel is hardly necessary for the few finishing touches. I +have seen him make some wooden ladles very rapidly, and he has provided +me with a new set of tent pegs and mallet and a wooden roller, by means +of which I hope to avoid the digital process in the manufacture of my +chepatties.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 2nd, Sunday.—Sitting having my feet washed by a servant +(delightful sensation) after my return from the ruin of Rajdainbul and +Nagbul. I meditate on the mutability of all things human. I have taken a +walk before breakfast this Sabbath morning to witness the overthrow of +former magnificence and the destruction of man's crafty handiwork. These +two temples erected many long years ago in honour of a Hindoo Deity +named Naranay, now stand desolate piles in the dense jungle. Fallen +stones cover the ground and great trees grow from the interstices of +those that still hold together and retain a semblance of their original +shape. Confusion reigns supreme and the place that was once the scene of +mistaken worship, is now only the haunt of the wild beast and deadly +reptile. The thoughts which such a sight suggest, have been the theme of +many a moralist, but the great lesson it teaches cannot lose any of its +importance by repetition. Yet a consideration of the littleness of man +and the utter vanity of his proudest works is, I fear, distasteful to +most of us; we cannot bear to be forced to admit our own insignificance. +We go to church and cry "what is man that Thou art mindful of him," but +the words are but empty sounds. Our preachers may tell us that life is +but a shadow, but they speak to unwilling and heedless ears, and we go +on ignoring the fact, crying peace, and stifling our conscience by a +form of religion without godliness. We are arrogant, high-minded, puffed +up in our own conceit, and though there are many that would wish to be +considered holy, how few there are that are humble men of heart, and +time continues to repeat the old, old story, filling our grave-yards, +destroying our works; creation alone remaining stable, waiting for the +end. These ruins are small in size, and their architecture rude, though +the individual blocks are certainly large and well though not +elaborately carved. But they produce a strange impression of awe by the +dreary solitude and wildness of their position which is perhaps peculiar +to themselves, although they lack both the fairy elegance of Netley +Abbey, and the massive grandeur of a Pevensey Castle. The men who +accompanied me advanced very cautiously through the thick underwood, +beating with their sticks in order to drive away the Iguana Lizards, +which they call the "bis cobra" and hold in deadly fear, believing its +bite to be most surely fatal. This belief is universal among the natives +of India, but there is no proof of its truth, and I need hardly say that +the dental arrangement of Bactrachian reptiles is incompatible with the +possession of poisonous qualities. But though science will not admit it, +it is strange that the idea is so widely spread, especially as the +natives do not fear any other species of lizard, while they believe that +every snake is armed with the fatal fang.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 3rd.—Heavy rain prevented my departure from Wangut, at the usual +early hour, but about 9 o'clock it cleared up, and I marched on Arric +eight miles distant down a path on the right bank of the river, (I +ascended the valley on the other side.) The rain has made it very +slippery, and it was a fatiguing walk the road not being good, and +occasionally dangerous; one part fairly beat me, I was expected to pass +round a smooth rock by means of several ledges one inch wide and four or +five long, cut on its surface. The precipice below was deep, and when I +had taken one step, and found myself hanging over it; I determined to go +back and try another way. The other way is bad enough, but all I object +to is having my safety depending upon a single foothold. I like to have +at least one chance of recovering myself if I slip. My walnut tree +to-day is covered with mistletoe and my mind is directed to Christmas +time, and all its (to us) sad associations. Three Christmases have I +spent away from England, and a fourth is now approaching, one of them on +the ocean, and two in the tented field, the next will I fancy also find +me under canvass, but I trust on my way homewards. Westward Ho! is my +cry; let the gorgeous East with its money bags, its luxuries, and its +many hours of idleness, remain for those who are content to exchange +home-ties and the enjoyment of life for dreary exile and too often +untimely death, who will sell their minds and bodies for the price of +rupees.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 4th.—Marched back to Ganderbul, nine miles. Ganderbul is a very +small place, and the only object of interest I noticed, was a very old +bridge built of rough stones, standing now upon dry land, for the Scind +has left its former channel and runs one hundred yards to to the south +of it, three of the arches remain entire and connected, and at least +twelve others are either decayed or destroyed. This bridge is evidently +of very ancient date. On emerging from the Scind valley, I got a better +view of the vale than I have before had. It was a clear but cloudy +morning—one of those grey days when rays abound, and photographic +efforts are most successful—and every distant object was seen with +great distinctness. The snowy Pin Punjaul range, in its southern +boundary looked magnificent, rising abruptly from the level and +beautiful plain. On board the boat again, I continued the journey +towards Srenuggur. We had not been long afloat before a sudden squall +came down from the hills and blew the roof of the boat off; it took a +long time to repair the mischief, but fortunately all the matting was +blown on to the bank, it was eventually replaced and we proceeded +onwards in a tolerably direct line to the capital, ten miles distant. +But near sunset the wind increased again, and compelled us to take +refuge in a sheltered nook within a mile or two of Srenuggur, the fort +standing above us on the summit of a hill—imposing from its apparently +impregnable position—and there we remained all night.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 5th.—Starting early, I soon arrived at the outskirts of the +town, and the boat entered a canal with houses on both sides. There was +some delay at a lock and great excitement in pushing over the fall +caused by the rash of the water. Passed through the city which is a +large one, and encamped under chenars on the banks of the canal on the +other side. The Baboo-Mohu Chundee, an officer appointed by the +Maharajah to attend to the many and varying wants of European +visitors—called upon me and afterwards sent "russud" or a present from +the Maharajah consisting of tea, sugar, flour, butter, rice, salt, +spice, vegetables, a chicken, and a live sheep. Some cloth merchants +also came and I was led into extravagance in purchasing some of their +goods. In the afternoon I got a small boat, a miniature of the larger +one, propelled by six men with paddles. They took me along very quickly, +and I went down the canal which opens into the Jhelum—the main +thoroughfare of Suenaggur opposite to the palace and the adjoining +temple, whose dome is covered with plates of pure gold. It is a very +strange sight, the broad river covered with boats, and lined by houses +built in the curious Kashmirian style. Seven fine bridges cross it, and +on two of them stand rows of shops like our Old London Bridge. I first +went to the Post-office and got a satisfactory communication from our +Paymaster, and also a letter from Bill, giving me the sad tidings of +poor Tyrwhitt's death, which took place at Murree a fortnight after my +departure. It is a selfish consideration, but I cannot help feeling +grateful that he was prevented by an attack of ague from accompanying +me, as he intended. I then went to Sumnad Sha's, the great shawl +merchant, and turned some of the Paymaster's paper into silver currency. +He showed me his stock, and I wished that I possessed the means of +purchasing his goods. But even here a good shawl costs thirty or forty +pounds, very magnificent they are, but I need not describe that which +every English lady knows and longs for, if she has not it. Hewson, the +Paymaster at Chinsurah, is encamped within one hundred yards of me. +Passing in his boat he recognised me, and we went and had a swim and +talked over old times at the Depôt.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 6th.—Bought some tackle and went fishing, but the hooks were +rotten and the fish broke several. I only succeeded in landing one trout +of nearly two pounds weight. The spoon bait is a favourite one here. +Bought a variety of stones and pebbles. Ladûk, Yarkund, Opals, Garnets, +&c., for making brooches, bracelets, and studs. I was a long while +making the selection and a long while bargaining, but I seem to have got +them cheap; at all events for less money than Hewson has paid for his. +This, and fishing, occupied the whole day—which was consequently an +uneventful one. In the evening I borrowed writing materials from Hewson, +and wrote a letter to Bell.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 7th.—Went out spearing fish, but found it difficult in +consequence of the allowance necessary for the refraction of the water +and the movement of the fish. There is a great temptation to strike in +an apparently direct line with the fish, which I need hardly say, even +if the fish be stationary does not go near it. I only succeeded in +piercing two. But I afterwards went out with a spoon and very soon +landed a couple of trout of two and four pounds weight. I have found out +who was at Baramula —— travelling quietly like a private gentleman, +still, notwithstanding the paucity of his retinue, the unmistakeable +stamp of nobility about him made it plain that he was more than he +appeared to be, obtaining for him the attention which he had wished to +ignore. As a contrast to him we have here X——, Y——, and Z——, +noticeable like many other Englishmen, when travelling in foreign +countries for the prodigality of their expenditure, one of whom got a +thrashing the other day from ——. Rather a disreputable affair for him, +if all I hear be true. I dare say many a poor native wishes that a small +portion of the money these three men waste was given to them instead.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 8th.—I have done nothing to-day except go to Sumnad Shas for +some more money, as I intend to leave Sreenugger to-morrow for the +eastern part of Kashmir. There are two reasons for my idleness; in the +first place Hewson gave me some books he had done with, and I got +interested in James' "Heidelberg" and was reading it all this morning; +and secondly, Hewson left this afternoon and sat a long time with me +before his departure. To lengthen my notes for the day I ought to write +a sermon, or secular discourse, (as I have done before) but I don't feel +inclined to do so. This diary only gets my thoughts when they arise +spontaneously and require no further labour than the mere putting of +them into words. To-day my mind is a blank, and I am not going to search +in hidden recesses for thoughts that may possibly be secreted there. +Perhaps after dinner something may occur to me worth writing about.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 9th, Sunday.—On again by the big boat up the Jhelum stopping at +Pampur for two hours fishing under the bridge (the reputed haunt of +large fish) but without success, so continued the journey gliding slowly +along the beautiful river until dark, when the boat was run ashore and +secured. So it has been an uneventful day with no new scenery to +describe and no musings to record.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 10th.—Another day passed on the river. From early dawn till dusk +we continued towing against the stream, and then halted for the night at +Kitheryteen (I spell the word from my boatman's pronunciation of it) a +small village on the right bank.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 11th.—Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara, +where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar +to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty +from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every +pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway, +between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains. +Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be +large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half +its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains +which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached +Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the +first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of +only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small +streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the +hills.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 12th.—Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the +camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned +from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them +being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600 +feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity. +In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and +these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave, +but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too +cold up there. At Burven is a very holy spring. Two tanks are formed +where the water escapes from the ground, and these tanks swarm with tame +fish, some of them of large size. It was a great sight feeding them. +They all rushed to the place struggling and fighting for the food. The +bright green water was black with them, and a space yards wide and long, +and several feet thick, was occupied by a block of fish packed as +closely as if they were pickled herrings. These fish are also very +sacred, and to catch them is prohibited. Soon after leaving Kunbul I +passed through Islamabad, a large town of which I may have more to say +hereafter. There are two other men encamped here with me, but they don't +seem very sociable, and I don't care much for the society of strangers; +we have exchanged "good mornings" and that is all, and now sit staring +at each other at a distance of twenty yards. How different it would have +been if we were Frenchmen instead of cold-blooded Englishmen. After dark +the fakirs had a "tomasha." Singing, bell ringing, tambourine-beating, +and the blowing of discordant horns all at the same time, constituted a +delightful music—to them at least—and was continued for hours, +interrupted by shouting and yelling, and with this din going on I now +hope to sleep.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 13th.—Marched back to Islamabad, seven miles, by another road, +as I first visited the ruins of Martund, a temple built (so the legend +goes) ages ago by "gin men" or demons of gigantic stature. These are +really grand ruins, whether position, site, or architecture be +considered. They stand on an open plain, on the summit of a ridge, from +which is a fine view of the surrounding mountains, which are much higher +than in the western part of Kashmir. In the centre is a large block, +containing several rooms, the huge stones of which it is built being +elaborately carved. There are many niches containing figures, but the +defacing hand of time has sadly marred them. On two sides of this +building and only a few feet distant from it rise a couple of wings, and +the whole is enclosed by a stone screen, perforated by trefoil arches, +and having on its inner side a row of fluted columns. In the middle of +the south side of the screens is the main entrance, the pillars of which +are very tall. Vigne, classes these ruins among the finest in the world, +and perhaps he is right. At Islamabad there are several bungalows +provided for visitors, and I went into one of them, having first +cleared it of the "fakirs"—who are here too. These bungalows stand by +tanks in which are tame fish, as at Burven. A spring issues from the +hill side, just above them. Two men of the 7th Hussars, Walker and +Verschoyle, occupied another, and I breakfasted with them. Adjoining the +tanks is a small pleasure garden, with some buildings which are +inhabited by the Maharajah when he visits Islamabad. The place reminds +me more of a tea garden in the New Road, than the resort of Royalty. The +water from the tanks escapes under the front bungalow forming a pretty +cascade. Dined and passed the evening with the other fellows.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 14th.—To Atchebul, six miles. This is a charming spot. It is a +pavilion and garden built—if my memory serves me—by the Emperor Shah +Jehan, for his wife; at its upper end rises a hill covered with small +deodars and other trees, and from the foot of this hill four springs +gush forth from crevices in the rock. The volume of water is very large, +and it is conveyed into three tanks at different levels. These tanks are +connected by broad canals lined with stone, and at the extremity of each +canal is a fine waterfall. There are also two lateral canals which run +through the whole length of the gardens, from the boundary of which the +water escapes in three cascades, the centre one from the tanks being +the largest. In the middle tank are twenty-five fountains, which were +turned on for my benefit; only seventeen of them play, and the best jets +are not more than six feet high. In the centre of this tank stands a +pavilion which I now inhabit. Its walls are of wooden trellis work, and +the ceiling is divided into panels on which are painted in many colours +the everlasting shawl pattern; it looks as though the floor-cloth had +been placed on the ceiling by mistake. Along the foot of the hill is a +ruined terrace built of bricks, with arches and alcoves crumbling to +pieces. There is also an arch over the canal, between the second and +third tanks. The whole garden was originally laid out in several +terraces faced with masonry, and having wide flights of stone steps from +one to the other; but all is now much decayed, and the garden itself is +quite uncultivated, except a small portion, and is but a wilderness of +fruit trees and fine chenars. On the left of it is the old Human or +bath, a series of domed and arched rooms containing baths and marble +seats. The interior is in a fair state of preservation, and the various +pipes which conveyed the water to it still exist. The whole ground is +enclosed by a wall, and if it was properly looked after, might be +converted into a very pleasant retreat. In the afternoon Walker and +Verschoyle, rode over from Islamabad and sat some time with me, after a +few hours five other pipes began to squirt—rendered patulous I suppose +by the pressure of the water—so that three only now remain occluded. I +had a great loss last night; the dogs broke open the basket containing +my provisions, and carried away half a large sized cake, and a hump of +beef that had been cooked but was uncut.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 15th.—Marched to Nowboog, fifteen miles, this long march was +quite unexpected as Ince in his book puts it down eight miles. It was up +hill nearly all the way—this combined with the sun's heat—for I did +not start so early as I would have done if I had known the distance—and +the vexation of having to go on, long after I considered the march +ought to have been finished, made it very fatiguing. Nowboog is situated +in a small and pretty valley separated by hills from the rest of +Kashmir. I intend to halt here to-morrow, so will reserve further +description until I feel fresh again. It was one or two o'clock before I +arrived, and I have worn a hole in my left heel which will, I fear, +render the next marches painful. Umjoo—the boatman—is now shampooing +my legs and feet. This process consists of violent squeezes and pinches +which make me inclined to cry out, but I am bearing it bravely without +flinching and endeavouring to look happy, and to persuade myself that it +is pleasant—now my toes are being pulled with a strength fit to tear +them off. Oh! ——. There's a cry on paper. He does not hear that, and +it is some sort of relief.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 16th, Sunday.—The valley of Nowboog is small but very +picturesque. The surrounding hills are comparatively low, and are +covered with pasture on the open places, while the deodar and many other +trees occupy the ravines and gullies. The large amount of grass and the +grouping of the trees give it a park-like appearance, and the gentle +slopes of the verdant mountains remove all wildness from the scene. It +is a pleasant spot to halt at. A little nook which while it charms the +eye, only suggests peaceful laziness. My coolies sit at a short +distance, singing through their noses Kashmirian songs. There is much +more melody in their music than in that of their brethren of Hindoostan. +Indeed some of the tunes admit of being written, and I have copied a few +of the more rythmical, as they sang them. The principal objection to +them is that they are rather too short to bear repetition for half an +hour as is the custom, there is another music going on—a music that +cannot be written and will be difficult to describe—I mean the song of +the "Cicada Stridulantia" in walnut trees above me. This insect—the +balm cricket—is in appearance a burlesque, just such a house fly as you +might imagine would be introduced in a pantomime; and its cry is as +loud and incessant as it is peculiar. To describe it, fancy to begin +with a number of strange chirps, and that every few seconds, one of +those cogged wheels and spring toys that you buy at fairs to delude +people into the belief that their coats are being torn—is passed +rapidly down the back, with occasionally momentary interruption in the +middle of its course, while between each scratch you hear a mew of a +distant cat—another cat purring loudly all the time, and any number of +grasshoppers chirping to conclude with a running down of the most +impetuous and noisy alarum, and then silence—a silence almost painful +by contrast—until it begins again. Such is the song of the Cicada in +the Himalayan forests. I wonder every Sunday if they miss me at +Peshawur; for I was organist to the church before I left, and I doubt if +there is anybody to take my place. I wish I had the instrument here now +to peal forth to the hills and the wondering Kashmirians Handel's +sublime "Hallelujah Chorus" or "The Marvellous Works" of Haydn. What can +be more inspiring than the grand old church music we possess, bequeathed +to us by composers of immortal memory. Though much opposed to the +present Ritualistic tendencies I do delight in a musical service. It +seems to elevate the mind and give a greater depth to our devotion. Go +into any of our cathedrals and hear the solemn tones of the Liturgy +echoing through the vaulted roof, and your heart must needs join in the +supplication, "And when the glorious burst of music calls to praise and +rejoicing, will not your own soul fly heavenward with the sound and find +unaccustomed fervency in its thanksgivings." There is perhaps one thing +necessary, and that is, that you should know the music you hear, +otherwise the first admiration of its beauty may eclipse all other +considerations. But if you have studied it, if it is as familiar to you +as it ought to be, and is intimately connected in your mind with the +words to which it is set, you will understand its spirit, and see that +however beautiful it may be it is only the means whereby higher thoughts +and nobler feelings are sought to be expressed. I bought here a very +fine pair of Antlers of the "Bara sing"—a large deer found on these +hills.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 17th.—To Kookur Nag, twelve miles. I am now convinced I came the +wrong road from Atchibul to Nowboog, as I had to march back over a great +portion of it this morning; however, with the exception of a mile or +two, it was all down hill, and as I knew when I started that I had +twelve miles to go, I was not tired. Stopped at the village on the way +where there are iron works, and saw them smelting the ore which is +obtained from the neighbouring mountains, this ore is a yellow powder, +and appears to be almost pure oxide. Their method of working is very +rude; a small furnace, such as a blacksmith uses at home, supplied with +a pair of leather bellows constitutes the whole of the foundry, and is +of course, only capable of smelting a very small quantity of ore at a +time. Kookur Nag is the name of some springs about two miles from the +village I have encamped at, and I walked over this afternoon to see +them. It was scarcely worth the trouble. There are a great number of +them close together and they issue from the ground, as usual, at the +foot of a prettily wooded hill. The water is very pure and cold, and of +sufficient quantity to form immediately a large and rapid stream. This +place lies near the mouth of a wide gorge or valley which leads right up +to the snows, and down which there must have been at one time, either a +mighty rush of water or a vast glacier, as the ground is thickly strewn +with huge boulders. The stratification of one mountain against which it +is evident the flood impinged—is very clearly and beautifully shown.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 18th.—To Vernag, ten miles, crossing a range of hills, the +descent being the steepest I have experienced. From the top of the range +there was a fine view of the two valleys of Kookur Nag and Vernag. They +are very similar and down the middle of each is a layer of loose rounded +stones. The springs of Vernag occupy the same position in the valley as +those of Kookur Nag do in the other, but around them is a good sized +village, and their point of exit has been converted into a large and +very deep octagonal tank, which is perfectly crowded with sacred fish. +Surrounding the tank is a series of arches, and on the side from which +the stream escapes is a bungalow for the use of visitors. Six days ago a +Hindoo was drowned here, and his body has not been recovered—so deep is +the water, it is probable that ere this the fish have removed all but +his bones, one hundred yards below the tank is another spring, which is +the finest I believe in Kashmir. It comes straight up on level ground, +and forms a mound of water eighteen inches high, and more than a foot in +diameter. The morning cloudy and very gloomy on account of the eclipse +of the sun of which I saw nothing. This is my birthday and my thoughts +have been running over my past life and speculating upon the future +before me. "But fear not dear reader!" I will not bore you with all my +musings over those twenty-nine unfruitful, if not absolutely mis-spent +evil years, or show you how my "talent" lies carefully folded up and +hidden away, in order that I may have it to return to its "owner". "Oh! +fool, fool that I am." Knowing better things and with a half a lifetime +gone, "I find myself still plodding along the old road paved with good +intentions." The springs of grace indeed surround me, but I am in the +shallows and the water is muddy. The very "Tree of Life" is by my side, +but it is a dwarfed and stunted shrub, whose shoots wither before they +put forth leaves. When will this change? Will my resolutions ever become +deeds? "Will grace abound: or will faith ever give such impetus to my +"Tree of Life," that it may grow up into heaven?" I put to myself the +question that was asked Ezekiel. "Can these dry bones live," and have no +other answer than his to make. These are some of my birthday thoughts. +Pray, forgive, excuse me if I have wearied you.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 19th.—Back to Atchibul, twelve miles, the road for the most part +level, but there was one mile of very hard work, over the ridge I +crossed yesterday. I approached Atchibul from the hill I mentioned as +standing at the head of the garden, and from the top of it a very pretty +view of the place is obtained. I found the pavilion unoccupied, and +again took possession of it, set the fountains playing, and imagined +myself the Great Mogul. Just out of Vernag, I caught a small black and +yellow bird, which my boatman calls a "bulbul" (though I think he is +wrong in the name) and says it sings very well. I have had a cage made +for it, and it is now feeding at my side, and is apparently very happy. +I'll try and take it to England. I believe it is only one of the shrike +family, but it is too young to identify at present. However, it is my +fancy to keep it, so why should I not. The old gardener here is very +attentive, constantly bringing me fruit. Shall I do him injustice, by +saying that he probably has expectation of a reward? I think not indeed, +is it not the same expectation or its allied motive, the desire to +escape punishment, which prompts the actions of all of us? We do good, I +fear, more for the sake of the promised recompense, than for any love +of the thing itself. Light rain has fallen all day.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 20th.—I halt at Atchibul. I have now completed my wanderings in +Kashmir, and have seen all I intended except one portion, which I shall +visit on my road home. My next move will be to ——, but as I do not +care to spend more than seven or eight days there, I am in no hurry to +get back. My bird died in the night, and by its death has put an end to +a rather violent controversy between my Bheistie and boatman. The +boatman stoutly maintained his opinion of its value and the Bheistie +with a more correct appreciation, and while explaining to me that it +was a jungle bird and would never sing, appeared to look upon my conduct +with a mixture of compassion and disgust, and then they quarrelled over +it. Was my fancy a foolish one? Some men will spend years in the pursuit +and classification of butterflies, while others go into ecstasy over a +farthing of the reign of Queen Anne. My common jungle bird was a pretty +one, and if I had got it home and put it in a gilt cage, it would surely +have possessed some value for its antecedents, even if it had proved as +mute as a fish, or as discordant as a Hindoo festival.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 21st.—Marched back to Kunbul, seven miles, and took up my +quarters again on board the boat, fifteen or twenty other boats are +here, a good many visitors having recently arrived in this part of +Kashmir. I remained at Kunbul all day waiting for the completion of a +pair of chuplus which I ordered of a shoemaker ten days ago. I have +occupied the time by reading Marryat's "Newton Forster" (one of Hewson's +gifts) and I find that when I read I can't write, so that must be my +excuse for the shortness of my notes. My head is full of ships, sea +fights, and love making to the exclusion of everything else. I heard +you—you said it was a good job, as it prevented me writing more +nonsense.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 22nd.—Slowly drifting all day down the stream towards +Sreenuggur. Past Bijbehara with its fine bridge, stopping there a short +time to procure milk and eggs for breakfast. Past Awuntipoor—the former +capital—but now only a very small village, where stands on the rivers +bank the ruins of two ancient Hindoo temples, square blocks, built +indeed of enormous stones, but without sufficient architectural +embellishment to require a closer inspection than I obtained from the +boat. Another of those charming lazy days on the water, nothing to think +about, but the time for meals, nothing to do, but to eat them when +prepared. The eastern part of Kashmir is covered with high isolated +mounds called Kuraywahs, composed of Alluvium, presenting perfectly +flat summits and precipitous sides. The top of these was doubtless the +original bed of the lake at the time when the whole valley was +submerged, and the present channels between them (though now dry land) +were cut by the rush of the water, when the Jhelum burst through the +opening at Baramula and drained the valley. This rush then is shown to +have been impetuous (and the high banks of the river also bear evidence +to it) but it seems to me that the mere breaking through of the stream +sixty or seventy miles away is not enough to account for it. No doubt +that occurrence was attended, I may say produced by violent +subterranean phenomena; and I imagine that this portion of the +vale—which is much higher than the western half—then underwent a +sudden upheaval, the result of which if only a few feet would be to +throw its waters with terrific force into the lower portion and afford +an easy explanation of the formation of both the Kuraqwahs and the +Jhelum. I noticed in my course up the Jhelum, that it appeared to have +originally consisted of a chain of small lakes, this would be the the +natural effect of such a cause as I have supposed. The bulk of water, at +first, would only have been sufficient to produce a few of them, perhaps +only the large one between Gingle and Baramula. But as its quantity and +measure continually increased by the flow from the higher level so +would lake after lake have been formed among the crowded hills until the +plains were reached. Then the drainage of these small lakes would follow +as a matter of course, and the channel of the river be reduced to a size +proportionate to its constant supply. Dear reader, you are very +difficult to please. My descriptions you call slow, my imaginings +frivolous, science dry. Jokes are feeble and personalities tedious +morality is stale, religion is cant. What, how can I write? You have had +a taste of all and if you are not content the fault is—well, let me be +on the safe side—either yours or mine.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 23rd, Sunday.—We continued to progress last night by moonlight +long after the sun had set, and started again very early this morning, +so that the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Soloman's Throne) and Fort are now +visible, and I expect to reach Sreenuggur before noon. It is faster work +floating down the current than towing against it. At Sreenuggur I found +several letters waiting for me, and amongst them a large "Official," +which I tore open with eager haste; thinking it might be a reply to my +application to be sent home. It was ——. Well, you will never guess—an +urgent enquiry as to what language I could speak and write fluently +beside English. I have answered this question some half dozen times +since I have been in the service, but they never get tired of asking it. +The date of my arrival in India is another favourite and constantly +recurring enquiry, and this might lead me to give you a dissertation +upon the theory and practice of Red-tapeism, with a special +consideration of the amount of stationery thereby wasted, and its +probable cost to the Government. It would perhaps, be very interesting +to you, but to any one who is at all connected with it, the subject is +only one of weariness and disgust—weariness at the unproductive labour +entailed—disgust at the utter folly of the proceedings. So I pass it +by, leaving some one who is willing to sacrifice his feelings, or more +probably some one who knows nothing whatever about it to furnish the +much needed exposé; it is customary to cry it down but it is an +acknowledged evil, the custom has never been fully and fairly explained +to outsiders or it must have given way before the burst of public +indignation which such an explanation would have created. I have again +encamped in the Chinar Bugh, but not quite in the old position as a +better place was unoccupied. Indeed I had my pick of the whole, for +there is now nobody here but myself. I received news (in my letters) +that a field force had left Pindee to operate against some of the hill +tribes between Peshawur and Abbottabad—ruffians who are always giving +trouble, and who occasioned the inglorious Umbeylla campaign a few +years ago. I informed my "boy" that there was going to be some hard +fighting, and his reply was "With our troops, Sir?" Our troops! good +heavens! a black man speaking to me of "our troops." It is customary I +know to call these Asiatics our fellow subjects, but I never before had +the fact so forcibly brought before me.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 24th.—I got up early this morning and have spent half the day on +the "Dul" or "City Lake"—a large sheet of water which lies at the foot +of the hill behind Sreenuggur. Besides the excessive beauty of the lake +itself there are many objects of interest to be seen on its banks. I +visited in succession the Mussul Bagh, Rupa Lank or Silver Isle, +Shaliman Bagh, Suetoo Causeway, Nishat Bagh, Souee Lank or Golden Isle, +and floating gardens. A word or two of description for each. The Mussul +Bagh is a large grove of fine chenars planted in lines so as to form +avenues at right angles to each other. There must be several hundred of +these noble trees upon the ground, I do not mean fallen but erect and +vigorous. The Shaliman Bagh is an extensive and well cultivated pleasure +garden with pavilions, tanks, canals and fountains, in true oriental +style. The upper pavilion is especially worthy of notice having a +verandah built of magnificent black marble veined with quartz +containing gold. It is surrounded by a large tank possessing one hundred +and fifty-nine fountains, and its exterior is grandly if not +artistically painted. The Nishat Bagh is smaller but scarcely less +attractive. It is arranged in a series of fifteen terraces, from which a +splendid view is obtained of the lake and adjacent country. Down its +centre runs a canal, expanding at intervals into tanks and having a +waterfall for each terrace, with a single straight row of fountains +numbering more than one hundred and sixty. Grand hills rise immediately +above it. It contains pavilions of fruit trees, and as a flower garden, +is superior to the Shaliman Bagh. The Suetoo Causeway, is a series of +old bridges and embankments which formerly crossed the lake, and was two +or three miles long, but only portions of it now remain. The two islands +are small and covered with trees, having no interest of themselves, but +adding greatly to the appearance of the lake. They are I believe +artificially constructed. The celebrated floating gardens are very +curious; they were formed by dividing the stalks of the water weeds near +their roots, and sprinkling the surface of them with earth, which +sinking a little way was entangled in the fibres and retained; Fresh +soil was then added, until the whole was consolidated, and capable of +bearing a considerable weight. The ground is now about nine inches +thick, floating upon the surface of the water, and the stalks of the +weeds below it having disappeared. It is exceedingly porous and is used +for the cultivation of water melons, when walking upon it a peculiar +elasticity is perceived, accompanied with a tremulous or jelly like +motion. It is divided into long stripes pierced by a stake at each end, +which secures them in their position and allows of their rising or +falling with the height of the water. An unlucky day for Silly. In the +first place he was <i>sea-sick</i>. The use of the broad paddle in a small +boat caused a good deal of shaking, and every stroke is attended with a +sharp jerk forwards—secondly, he mistook a collection of weeds for dry +land and jumped out into the water. This puzzled him immensely, and +after he was recovered he sat for a long time gazing with a bewildered +air upon the surface of the lake. Paid a visit in the afternoon to +Sumnud Shah for the purpose of replenishing my exchequer, but found his +shop better calculated to exhaust it. I'll not go there again.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 25th.—Lying down inside my tent I just now heard two crows +chuckling and laughing in their way and saying to one another "here's a +joke" or caws to that effect. You need not laugh at this statement or +think that my mind has suddenly become deranged, I merely state a fact. +The language of animals—dumb creatures as fools call them—is far more +expressive than you imagine, and if you had spent the same time and the +same attention that I have in listening to birds notes, you would be +able to understand much of their meaning. Here a conversation carried on +in a foreign tongue, one to which you a perfect stranger, will you be +able to distinguish words? No! you will only hear a confusion of sounds +possessing apparently but little variety. But as you become accustomed +to it the words and syllables will start out into clear relief; so with +birds songs—at first they will appear to you to be always the same, but +they have really different tones and meanings, which you may learn to +appreciate by studying them in connection with their acts. However I +heard the crows say "here's a joke" and guessing I was to be the victim +of it, I immediately jumped up and rushed out. They flew away loudly +exulting and I found my match box,—which I had left on the table broken +to pieces and the matches carefully distributed so as to cover as large +a space of ground as possible; there is a crow's joke for you—there is +not much in it as a joke,—but I introduce it principally to show that +birds talk and that I (clever I) can understand them. I wrote the +foregoing to eke out my notes for the day, not having anything +particular to record. When the Baboo called upon me with the startling +intelligence, all officers from the Peshawur division ordered +immediately to rejoin their respective regiments; this has taken away +the greater number of the visitors and very few are now left in Kashmir. +Why don't I pack up and start? Well, I forgot to mention a short +sentence in the order "except those on medical certificate" which saves +me the trouble and annoyance of hurrying back before the expiration of +my leave. It is on account, I suppose, of the little war we have entered +on with those hill tribes, and I may be missing honour and glory, wounds +and death, neither of which I care to earn from barbarians on the black +mountains. I am sorry for the affair as I fear that from the +inaccessibility of the country the best result will barely escape +disaster. This is a strange day. You see me, one moment trifling with my +thoughts for the sake of occupation and then having matters and subjects +for the deepest consideration suddenly thrust upon me. Ought I to +rejoin? I am indeed protected from the necessity of doing so, but my +health is now fully established and such being the case, is it my duty +to waive my right and return to my regiment. I think not, for the reason +it is not likely that they will weaken the garrison at Peshawur by +sending any of its troops into the field. Its strength is maintained for +the purpose of defence against the Cabulese and other powerful Pathan +tribes immediately surrounding it, who are deadly enemies, and would be +eager to avail themselves of any opportunity for offence. Therefore I +imagine that my regiment will remain in quarter, and do just as well +without me as with me; and therefore have I determined to adhere to my +original plans.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 26th.—There was a great fire in the town last night; three +hundred houses have been destroyed. I went early to the scene of the +disaster, which is on the left bank of the river adjoining the first +bridge. The embers were still smouldering, and among the ruins the heat +was intense, owing to the houses having been built almost entirely of +wood, little but ashes and charred logs remained of them. Here and there +a few hot bricks retained the semblance of a wall, but the destruction +has been as complete as it is excessive. The bridge has also suffered, +the bank pier having been attacked by the flames, and half the railing +on either side of the foot-way has been torn off and precipitated into +the water. The latter injury was caused I imagine, by the rush of the +crowd over it at the time of the fire. No lives lost I believe.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 27th.—At six o'clock this morning a Jemindar or military +officer made his appearance, sent by the Baboo, for the purpose of +conducting me over the fort. A row of a mile down the river, and half a +mile walk through the narrow rough crowded and stinking streets of the +town brought us to the outworks, at the foot of the hill on which it is +built. This hill is very steep and several hundred feet high, (I do not +know the exact height, but I think it is between six and seven hundred +feet) and the climb up it was fatiguing. From the top there is an +extensive view, but the morning was misty and the greater part of the +valley indiscernible. In front lies the town, intersected by the Jhelum; +a great desert of mud-covered roofs presenting anything but the green +carpet-like appearance described in books. On the left long lines of +poplars, enclosing the Moonshi Bagh and the various encamping grounds, +with the Tukh-t-i-Suliman rising high above them. Behind, the Dul, +spread out like a sheet of silver with the back ground of mountains, and +many canals radiating and glistening in the sun-light. Of the fort I +have but little to say. From below, its position renders it imposing, +but a nearer inspection dispels the illusion. Inside it there is a +Hindoo temple, two or three tanks filled with green, slimy water, and +some wretched hovels for the occupation of the garrison. The ramparts +though high are weak and a few shells dropped within them would blow +the whole place to pieces. The ordnance consists of four ancient brass +guns; two of them about 9-pounders and the others 32-pounders, but I did +not see a spot from which either of them could be safely fired; and even +if there were bastions strong enough, I doubt if cannon could be +depressed sufficiently to sweep the precipitous sides of the hill. On my +way back to the boat, I turned aside to visit the Jumma Musjid, or chief +Mosque, a large quadrangular wooden building, the roof of which is +supported by deodar columns of great height, each pillar being cut out +of a single tree, but I cannot waste more time over it, the name recalls +to my memory the magnificent Jumma Musjid of Delhi—but comparisons are +odious. When parting with my attendant I felt uncertain whether or no he +would be offended by the offer of a remuneration for his trouble, so I +left him to ask for it, as natives usually do not scruple to request +"bucksheesh" for the most trifling service, but either his orders or his +dignity prevented him from soliciting it, and he went away unrewarded +and I doubt not dissatisfied. After noon I went and selected a lot of +papier maché articles, and gave monograms to be painted upon them. Their +papier maché is fairly made, elaborately painted and moderate in price. +At this shop they prepared some ladâk tea for me, a most delicious +beverage possessing a delicate flavour such as I have never before +tasted in any tea. It was sweetened with a sort of sweet-meat in lieu of +plain sugar.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 28th.—A blank day, I have done nothing but fish and only caught +one of moderate size. Early in the morning there was a storm attended +with high wind and heavy rain; it cleared up before sun-rise, but its +effect has been to make the day very pleasantly cool.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 29th.—Went up to the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Solomon's Throne) before +breakfast. It stands one thousand one hundred feet above the town, and +the ascent is effected by means of unhewn stones arranged in the form +of a rough flight of steps built by the Gins, I should fancy for their +own private use and without any consideration for the puny race of +mankind that was destined to follow them. I am a tall man and gifted +with a considerable length of <i>understanding</i> but the strides I was +obliged to take—sometimes almost bounds—if calculated to improve my +muscles, were certainly very trying to my wind. However all things have +an end, and so had that long flight of steps, and at the summit I had +leisure to recover my breath and enjoy the magnificent view. I took care +to have a clear day for this excursion, and the whole valley was seen +stretched out like a map, and spreading far away to the feet of its +stupendous mountain boundaries. The lakes like huge mirrors reflecting a +dazzling radiance. The Jhelum twisting like a "gilded snake" and forming +at the foot of the hill the original of the well-known shawl pattern; +miles upon miles of bright and verdant fields, divided and marked out by +the banks and hedges; clumps and groves of lofty trees diminished by +distance to the appearance of mere dark green bushy excrescences; the +poplar avenue looking like two long and paralleled lines drawn upon the +ground; the fort and hill but a pigmy now; the city of sombre colour, +with its houses closely huddled together and presenting an expanse of +mud—unworthy stone for such a setting! The high and rugged mountains +on every side piercing the clouds, out of which the everlasting snow and +ice rock regions untrod by mortal foot gleam and glisten coldly in the +scene below; these are the constituent parts of a view which taken +altogether ranks among the finest (if indeed it be not itself the +finest) in the world. But I have no description for it as a whole, words +would fail me if I attempted to reproduce it on paper, so you must take +the items and arrange them to your own satisfaction, and wish you had +the opportunity of seeing the glorious original. I am no antiquarian, +but I believe the building itself possesses great interest for those who +indulge in that musty study, on account of its vast antiquity and +uncertain history. To me it is only a Hindoo temple of quaint +architecture and unwholesome smell. Inside it is a small marble idol in +the form of a pillar with a snake carved round it.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 30th, Sunday.—The beginning of a fresh week which will at its +conclusion find me on my way homewards, my back turned on the lovely +valley and all the beauties that I have witnessed existing only in my +memory like a pleasant dream that has passed. So wags the world, joys +giving place to sorrows, and sorrows in their turn effaced by fresh +happiness or oblivion. For a little while each one of us plays his ever +varying part in the great drama of life. Now bewailing with bursting +heart, and scalding tears the light affliction which is but for a +moment; now with ringing laugh and reckless gaiety he enjoys the +present, forgetful alike of past and future, now with stormy passions +raging he "like an angry ape, plays such fantastic tricks before high +heaven, as make the angels weep;" and then is his short act over, then +the curtain falls and then will he be called before it to receive +approbation? Who can tell, I judge not one individually; but I may +generalize and say, that while as a rule we give a terrible earnestness +to the performance of the <i>business</i> connected with our parts, we too +often fail to appreciate and interpret the <i>spirit</i> of the character, +without which it is of course but a sorry exhibition and one that will +be deservedly damned. As I sit under the shade of the chenars writing, a +young native swell is passing along the opposite bank of the canal—a +mere boy, with gold turban, lofty plume and embroidered clothing, riding +a horse led by two grooms, followed by attendants also mounted, but +sitting two on a horse and preceded by a band consisting only of some +six drummers. He is playing his part doubtless very much to his own +satisfaction, and little thinking that there is one "taking notes" and +laughing at his proceedings. But so it is, we can always see, and +ridicule the faults and foibles of others, would to God we could as +easily perceive and weep over those of our own. The Baboo Mohes Chund +called to pay his farewell visit to me and shortly afterwards sent a +second edition of "russud" including as before—a live sheep.</p> + + +<p>AUGUST 31st.—My last day in Sreenuggur—and now let me make a few +observations on a topic which I dare say you are surprised has not been +mentioned before, I mean the women; the far-famed beauties of Kashmir. I +am not ungallant, while I have been silent, I have been observing, and +have delayed my remarks in order that they might have the benefit of the +largest experience I could command. I did this the more willingly, +because to tell the truth, I was disappointed at first, and I hoped that +by waiting I might eventually have reason to change my unfavourable +opinion. This however has not been the case, and while I intend to do +full justice to their charms I must commence by saying that they have +been grossly exaggerated. I do not of course allude to the higher +classes. They are invisible; they <i>may</i> be very beautiful, but are never +seen by Europeans. But the middle and lower classes go about with the +face uncovered, exposing themselves to the criticism of some and the +admiration of others, and it is of them I speak. The slim elegant figure +of the Hindoo is seldom seen; they are large, plump, round women. Their +complexion has been absurdly compared to that of our brunettes (may they +feel complimented thereby) but veracity compels me to say that they are +<i>very dark</i>. Fair indeed by comparison with the Hindoos, but actually +and unmistakeably copper-coloured not to say <i>black</i>. In their features +we find a great improvement; a well-shaped nose replaces the expanded +nostrils, compressed lips, the thick pouting ones, their teeth are of +marvellous whiteness and regularity as are those of all Asiatics. Their +cheeks may sometimes have a tinge of pink, but this is usually veiled by +the darker tint of the "rete mucosum." Their eyes—oh! their eyes!—here +lies their beauty, almond-shaped eyes, that when not in anger cannot +help throwing the sweetest and most captivating glances. None of your +trained disciplined eyes, taught to express feelings that do not exist; +but still eyes that equally deceive, eyes that nature in some strange +freak determined should ever look love. Unconsciously and +unintentionally they dart upon you the brightest, the most tender, nay, +even passionate glances. When looking at a young face, you only see the +eyes; eyes so voluptuous, so maddening, that you exclaim "good heavens +what a beautiful creature," and unless you are a calm and cool analyst +like myself, you may not discover that there is really no beauty save in +them. They dress their hair in a peculiar manner. It is plaited in a +number of small plaits joining two larger ones which fall over the +shoulders and unite in the middle of the back to form a long tail +terminating with a tassel. The larger plaits are mixed with wool, this +adds to their bulk, and increase the length of the tail, which often +extends below the knees. They wear a single loose gown, reaching in +ample folds nearly to the feet. On the head a small red skull cap, over +which is thrown the white (too often dirty) "chudder"—a light cloth +which hangs down the back and is used for veiling the face. The +boatwomen are renowned for their beauty. I have seen but little of it. +The Punditanees are said to be more beautiful than the boatwomen. I +consider them even less so. But among the Nautch girls I have seen both +grace and beauty, and as a class, I certainly think far better looking +than the others. Respect to age is a noble feeling—though one that is +unfortunately at a low ebb now-a-days—but truth, compels me and I must +pronounce all the elderly women to be positively ugly, and a woman is +elderly in Kashmir when in England she still might be called young. The +men are a fine race, regular features, broad shouldered and muscular, +wearing their bushy black beards on their faces, but shaving the head, +which is covered with a small coloured skull cap and white turban. Two +other men have pitched their tents under this tope. To-morrow I shall +leave them in undisturbed possession of the whole. They are friends and +have been travelling in Kashmir. I have had a conversation with one of +them, but I don't like strangers and am glad they did not come before.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 1st.—Up and away, taking a last look at the town and bridges, +a last look at the Tukh-t-i-Suliman while floating down the river. I am +on my way to Baramula, having given up my intended visit to Gulmurg, so +that I may get a week at Murree, and see more of the place than I did +when I was last there. Adieu to Sreenuggur, adieu to the Scind, adieu +to Manusbul; gently onwards we go towards lake Wulloor. It is a bright +clear day, one of the brightest among the many bright ones, and the +valley seems smiling upon me an affectionate farewell in order that the +last recollections and parting scene may be a joyful memory to me in +days and years to come. I thank thee for it. When I am gone let +rain-tears fall and clouds of care bewail my absence, but gladden my +departing moments with the full radiance of thy glorious countenance. +Oh! Kashmir, loveliest spot on earth, I owe thee a deep debt of +gratitude, I came to thee weak in body; thou hast restored my strength, +I was poor in thought; thou hast filled my heart with good things, I +was proud in conceit; thou hast shown me nature's grandeur and my own +littleness. With a voiceless tongue thou hast spoken and my spirit has +heard the unuttered words. Tales of the creation when the morning stars +sang together and all the sons of God shouted for joy; tales of man and +his works perished in the endless roll of ages; tales of the future when +heaven and earth shall have passed away amid the dread terror of the +great tribulation. Aye, and one more tale, a tale of love, mercy, and +forgiveness; the tale of an Asiatic—who, not far from here, was once +"bruised for our transgressions," who took upon Himself the iniquities +of us all and made up for us a mighty deliverance, and to this tale +there is a refrain that echoes from hill to hill, and spreads along the +plain in endless repetition, "believe only and thou shalt be saved," but +though the command is so simple, its eager passionate tone as it swells +around me, and an earnest mournful cadence as it dies away in the +distance, seems to imply that it is neither easily nor commonly obeyed.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 2nd.—Awoke early and found myself in the broad waters of the +lake, the full moon shining brightly in the west, and yet unpaled by the +rosy dawn that was rapidly illuminating the east. Stopped at Sopoor for +breakfast, and Macnamara, surgeon of the 60th Rifles, and his wife, +arrived soon after me, also bound for Murree. Macnamara was at Peshawur +with me, and was one of the committee that sent me away. We passed the +morning in conversation, and at mid-day continued our journey to +Baramula. He told me that he had heard that I was going home this winter +with troops; but I do not know whether his information is reliable. I +trust it may prove to be so, but it has not raised my hopes to a +certainty. It is a good rule never to reckon confidently upon the +achievement of our desires. It never assists to realise them and only +renders the disappointment more bitter in case of failure. I have a +great hope, but I do not forget that obstacles may arise, that while +man proposes God disposes, and often find myself forming plans for next +year under the supposition that I shall still remain in India. I have +written the dedication of this volume and have written it as if I had +already returned to England, and this may appear to indicate that I rely +strongly upon the fulfilment of my expectation. But not so, I can alter +or destroy it if need be, and shall do so with regret indeed, but +without despair. About halfway between Sopoor and Baramula the wind +increased to a gale and obliged me to take refuge under the bank. I +dined with Macnamara and his wife at 8 o'clock, the weather moderated +and we proceeded to Baramula.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 3rd.—At sunrise I obtained coolies, and turned my back on +the happy valley for ever. It was a beautiful morning with a golden haze +rising from the ground, the mountains appearing blue and purple against +the eastern halo; but before I had gone a mile a dark cloud gathered +around me, and wept passionate rain. I marched to Naoshera, ten miles, +followed in an hour by Dr. and Mrs. Macnamara who will be my fellow +travellers as far as Murree. The Rohale ferry is re-opened and I am +returning by the direct road on the left bank of the Jhelum. There is a +barahduree at every stage, so I sold my tent at Sreenuggur to render my +baggage lighter. I am travelling with only six coolies. The river is +much lower and less rapid than when I came up it, the excess of water +caused by the melting of the snow during the summer having been carried +off. It is still however a noisy turbulent torrent.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 4th.—A long march of fourteen miles to Ooree. The road is +becoming very hilly, but is not as yet nearly so rough and difficult as +on the other side. Passed two ruins; one of then very similar to those +at Wangut, but much smaller.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 5th.—To Chukoti, sixteen miles, a severe and fatiguing march, +the hills being intersected by ravines—the beds of streams—to all of +which there was a steep descent and corresponding ascent. This is the +worst march on the Murree road, but though bad, it is much better than +five or six that I described on my journey from Abbottabad. These long +marches are very detrimental to my diary, for at the conclusion I have +no energy either to think or write. I am not using my dandy now, and +have to walk every inch of the way.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 6th.—Fifteen weary miles to Huttian, low down on a level with +the river where I found a number of tents belonging to the Lord Bishop +of Calcutta and his Chaplain, who are here with a large retinue of +servants, and are on their way into Kashmir. They had very +considerately and unlike a certain —— —— left the bungalow empty for +the use of other travellers. Macnamara sprained his knee yesterday, and +used my dandy to day. One of my coolies stumbled on the road and the +Kitta he was carrying—containing my stores and cooking utensils, went +over the Rhudd and burst open in the fall. Macnamara was behind +fortunately (for me) and superintended the collection of the articles so +that my only loss of any moment is that of my big cooking pot, which +from its weight probably rolled all the way down to the Jhelum—the long +grass growing on the hill, stopped the other things. The six remaining +marches are I am glad to say short. The three last have been a severe +trial on account of the numerous and rough ups and downs, and for the +last mile or two this morning, the soles of my feet were in great pain; +Silly too was very exhausted even to the dropping of his tail.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 7th.—Got up at daybreak and marched on Chikar, distance ten +miles. For three miles the road continued along the valley of the +Jhelum, and then turned to the south, and crossed several ranges of +hills, each range rising higher than the one before, very hard work it +was, the ascents being so steep and long—I can't keep my breath going +up hill; it is far more fatiguing than any roughness of road. Chikar is +a good sized village with a fort and is situated on the summit of a +mountain at least two thousand feet above the Jhelum. There is a fine +view of the surrounding hills from the Barahduree. Shortly after our +arrival it began to rain, and has turned out a wet day. I had half my +crockery broken by the coolie dropping the basket instead of putting it +carefully down at the conclusion of the march.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 8th.—To Meira, seven and a half miles, a toilsome hill for +half the distance, and then a descent the rest of the way. Scenery very +pretty, the valleys being much larger and the mountains higher. The +Murree ridge is now visible. From this bungalow we can see the next +halting place, half way up a hill on the opposite side of an extensive +valley deeply cut by ravines. The view is really very grand—much the +finest on this road—in some parts it slightly resembles the scenery +around Darjeeling with, of course, pine trees taking the place of +magnolias and rhododendrons. The mere mention of those trees—magnolias +and rhododendrons I mean—will only give you a misconception of the +Sikin forests, because your ideas will be turned to the stunted shrubs +of our northern latitudes. The magnolias and rhododendrons I speak of, +are huge towering trees, taller than the largest oaks. How well I +remember the magnificent spectacle they presented when in blossom! I +have never seen mountains or forests that could compare in grandeur with +those of the eastern Himalayas. Can you imagine Kishun-gunga twenty-nine +thousand feet high? No! it is impossible; it is a sight that produces +the most intense awe, and when I first looked upon it I did not know how +to contain my feelings; but enough, or I shall be giving you a chapter +quite irrevelant to my journey from Kashmir. By the side of this +bungalow stands a large cypress; a very beautiful and by no means a +common tree. There is something peculiarly rich in its dark green +foliage, and withal, melancholy look, but that is doubtless owing to +its tomb—stone associations. Ince in his "Guide," calls it a +<i>sycamore</i>. He could hardly have named a tree more widely different.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 9th.—To Dunee, eight and a half miles; first half, down hill, +second up: both very steep and rough. A bad fatiguing march. The +barahduree here has been lately white-washed and looks quite refreshing +after the other dirty ones; but the rooms are ridiculously small. This +is the last halt in Kashmirian territory; to-morrow we shall be in a dâk +bungalow. I had a lesson to-day. The same lesson that the spider taught +Bruce—never to cease striving to obtain any desired object; and not +despair even if frequent failures attend the attempt. Ever since I left +Baramula I have been endeavouring to catch another of the green +butterflies, as beetles had eaten my first specimen. But they are very +alert on the wing, and I could not get near one. The last two or three +marches I had not seen any, having got out of their locality, but to-day +a solitary one flew by me and I knocked it down, caught it, and secured +it in my toper. Success will eventually crown all constant endeavours, +it is a slight peg on which to hang a moral, but let it pass. Life is +made up of trifles, and I desire my book to represent my life. A number +of people—ladies, men, and children—came into the bungalow at 2 +o'clock, having made a double march and overtaken us; so we are very +closely packed, even the verandah being occupied.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 10th.—To Kohala, six miles, nearly all the way down a +terribly steep and rough hill to the banks of the Jhelum—which river +has taken a great bend among the mountains and now runs at right angles +to its former course. A ferry boat crosses the torrent at this spot and +the passage during the summer is attended with considerable danger, as +the stream runs at the rate of twenty miles an hour. I got my baggage in +it and landed upon British soil at the other side. The Dâk bungalow is +just above, but we were very much crowded as all the other people +remained for the night. After dinner a great thunderstorm took place +accompanied with very heavy rain.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 11th.—Marched to Dargwal, twelve miles, up hill all the way, +but the road is broad and smooth, so that the march was quickly and +easily accomplished. M—— and his wife did not come in till the middle +of the day as they could not get coolies in time to start early. There +is a good furnished bungalow here, our other fellow travellers have gone +on to Murree, so we have the house to ourselves.</p> + + +<p>SEPTEMBER 12th.—To Murree, ten miles, road the same as yesterday. Went +to Woodcot, and found Spurgeon, Gordon, and Egerton, of the 36th; Hensma +and Beadnell, 77th; and Dalrymple, 88th. Put up with them sharing +Spurgeon's room. Spent a pleasant time at Murree, doing very little—a +long rest of ten days after my labours—and on the 22nd, at 1 o'clock, I +took my seat in the mail cart with Redan Massy for my companion, and +started on my journey to Peshawur. Arrived at Rawul Birder at 6 in the +evening, and went on at once by the Government van. Had no time for +food. Got to Peshawur at 7 o'clock next morning, and thus ended my three +months sick leave. And now I go back to the din and bustle of life, the +empty conventionalities of society, the noise and glitter of mess; to +the re-pursuit of my profession, and to learn again by the bedside of +many a dying man how weak and powerless is that profession to combat the +ills that flesh is heir to. I sometimes wish I could exchange my present +calling. Terrible thoughts often assail me, after the death of any of my +patients. Questions as to whether I am at all responsible for the fatal +issue. Whether by lack of knowledge that I should possess or by careless +observation during the progress of the disease, I have allowed a man to +die who might have been saved, or pushed into the grave one who was only +trembling with uncertainty upon its brink. Yet as a set off against +these feelings there is the satisfaction experienced when sufferings are +relieved or health restored by the interposition of my aid. The +profession of medicine is potent for good and evil. For good in the +hands of him who makes it his lifelong study; for evil in his hands who +adopts it merely as a respectable means of obtaining his livelihood. It +is noble in the one case; detestable in the other. You do not know how +detestable. If the vail could be raised, if you could see the vast +amount of misery and suffering caused, the many hearts broken that God +would not have made sad; and the many unprepared souls hurried out of +this life into eternity by the ignorance of men who are "licensed to +kill," you would cry out against the whole body of the profession with a +bitter hatred, that even the army of noble and devoted minds amongst us +would be unable to appease. Am I too severe? I fear not. There are +charlatans and know nothings in every pursuit, but in mine they effect +so seriously the temporal and may be eternal welfare of mankind that +their existence is awful to contemplate. Shall I, in conclusion, write +an apology for having nothing better than the foregoing to offer for +your perusal "devil a bit." If I have written folly and you have read it +all, why, you are the greater simpleton. To me it was an occupation when +I had nothing better to do, on your part it was a foolish waste of +time, which might have been more profitably employed. If I have written +folly and you have <i>not</i> read it, what necessity is there for me to +apologize to you? If I have written sense and you consider it nonsense, +you owe me an apology for your erroneous opinion. But if I have written +sense and you have derived pleasure from the perusal of it, then we are +both content, and I need neither forefend your criticism nor beg your +excuses. Thus then I have proved that though it may possibly be +necessary for you to apologize to me, it cannot under any circumstance +be needful for me to apologize to you. But there is a small class to +whom the above remarks do not apply. I mean those few who I delight to +think will read my book diligently and admiringly, merely because <i>I</i> +wrote it. Whose judgment is warped by their affection, and who will be +unconscious of the weary yawn my pages may often produce. Shall I +apologize to them? No! let them read, let them yawn; T'is a labour of +love on their part, a labour which <i>love</i> has prepared for them—and for +them alone—or mine.</p> + +<p>And now farewell. May your shadow <i>never</i> grow less! May you live for a +thousand years.</p> + +<p class="smcap">Hazor Salaam.</p> + + +<p>JANUARY 16th, 1869.—If these notes should ever be written out by my +relations after my death—for I am now like to die, let me beg that the +many mistakes in spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of +the writing, may by corrected and not set down to ignorance.</p> + + + +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_SUBSCRIBERS" id="LIST_OF_SUBSCRIBERS"></a>LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.</h2> + +<ul><li>Prince Frederic of Schleswig Holstein.</li> +<li>His Excellency Lieut.-General E. Frome, R.E., Governor of Guernsey.</li> +<li>Sir P. Stafford Carey, Bailiff of Guernsey.</li> +<li>Edgar MacCulloch, Esq., Lieutenant-Bailiff.</li> +<li>William Wallace Armstrong, Esq., San Francisco. A.B.</li> +<li>Mrs. Boucaut, Guernsey.</li> +<li>General Sir George Brooke, K.C.B., R.H.A.</li> +<li>Lieut.-Col. H.J. Buchanan, 2-9th Regiment.</li> +<li>Major Henry L. Brownrigg, 84th Regiment.</li> +<li>Henry S.R. Bagenal, Esq., Control Department.</li> +<li>Captain George P. Beamish, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mr. George Beedle, Quarter-Master 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>A. Brown, Esq., National Provincial Bank of England.</li> +<li>J. P. Bainbrigge, Esq., Bank of England, Liverpool.</li> +<li>J. Banckes, Esq., Shipwrecked Mariners' Society.</li> +<li>Mrs. Crawford, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Cunnynghame, Edinburgh.</li> +<li>W. Collins, Esq., M.D., Scots Fusilier Guards.</li> +<li>Mrs. Cave, Hartley Whitney, Hants.</li> +<li>Captain G. Collis, 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Colonel Conran, Fitzroy, Melbourne.</li> +<li>H. Couling, Esq., Brighton.</li> +<li>H. Cuppaidge, Esq.</li> +<li>Miss Dugdale, 75, Gloucester Terrace, Hyde Park, W.</li> +<li>Miss E. Donne, Grove Terrace Highgate.</li> +<li>Miss Donne, Salisbury.</li> +<li>James D'Altera, Esq., M.D.</li> +<li>James Deane, Esq., Queenstown, Cork.</li> +<li>W.G. Don, Esq., M.D.</li> +<li>Dr. Drewitt, Wimborne, Dorset.</li> +<li>Dr. Dudfield, 8, Upper Phillimore Place, Kensington, W.</li> +<li>B. De Marylski, Esq., Royal Artillery.</li> +<li>Captain P. De Saumarez, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Captain D.K. Evans, 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. W. Foster, 7, Lower Berkeley Street, London.</li> +<li>Mrs. E. Foster, 10, Chester Terrace, Regent's Park.</li> +<li>Mrs. Feilden, Isle of Herm.</li> +<li>Major-Gen. Sampson Freeth, late Royal Engineers.</li> +<li>Major-Gen. James H. Freeth, late Royal Engineers.</li> +<li>Colonel Foster, late 16th Lancers.</li> +<li>The Rev. W. Foran, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Walter Freeth Esq., Croydon.</li> +<li>Henry Foster Esq., Victoria Road, Kensington.</li> +<li>Patterson Foster, Esq.</li> +<li>Kingsly, O. Foster, Esq.</li> +<li>Mrs. F.W. Gosselin, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Rev. F. Giffard, The Vicarage, Hartley Wintney.</li> +<li>John C. Guerin, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>S.M. Gully, Esq., 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>F.L. Grundy, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>M. Garnier, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Horridge.</li> +<li>Lieut.-Col. Fitzwilliam Hunter, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>T. Holmes, Esq., 18, Great Cumberland Place, Hyde Park.</li> +<li>Captain J.B. Hopkins, 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Reginald Hollingworth, Esq., late 77th Regiment.</li> +<li>T. Husband, Esq., 34, Argyle Road, Kensington.</li> +<li>Charles Hogge, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li></ul> + + +<h4>In Memoriam.</h4> +<ul><li>Miss B.S.H. Coventry Jeffery.</li> +<li>Captain A.H. Josselyn, 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>J.W. Jones, Esq., 5th Dragoon Guards.</li> +<li>The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A.</li> +<li>Mr. J. Kenwood, Hartley Wintney.</li> +<li>Mrs. Le Marchant Thomas Le Marchant, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Miss Lefebvre, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. La Serre, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Sir T. Galbraith Logan, K.C.B., Director General.</li> +<li>Thomas Lacy, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Major R.B. Lloyd, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>"Library," Officers, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mr. Thomas Lenfestey, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. MacPherson, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Mogg, Clifton.</li> +<li>Mrs. Peter Martin, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mrs. Myers, Guernsey.</li> +<li>A.D. MacGregor, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Capt. A.E. Morgan, late 71st Highland Lt. Inf.</li> +<li>Captain J.W. Massey, 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>J.W. Morgan, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>James E. Macdonnel, Esq., 9th Regiment.</li> +<li>W.H. Marriot, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>S.M. Maxwell, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>A. Morgan, Esq., Treasurer, S.W. Railway.</li> +<li>The Mess, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>W. Moullin, Esq., Clifton.</li> +<li>Miss A.M. Newman, Cheltenham.</li> +<li>The Rev. E.J. Ozanne, M.A., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Captain J. Osmer, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>E.F. O'Leary, Esq., 6th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. Joshua Priaulx, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Mr. Charles Palmer, Hartley Wintney.</li> +<li>Miss M. Pittard Guernsey.</li> +<li>Colonel Priaulx, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Colonel Lewis Peyton.</li> +<li>G. Pollock, Esq., 36, Grosvenor Street, London, W.</li> +<li>C.W. Poulton, Esq., 35th Regiment.</li> +<li>G. Pound; Esq., Odiham, Hants.</li> +<li>Mrs. Ramsay, Isle of Sark.</li> +<li>John Roberts, Esq., M.D., Guernsey.</li> +<li>George M. Richmond, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>J.L. Rose, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. Sandes, St. John's Hill, London, S.W.</li> +<li>Mrs. R. Smith, Guernsey.</li> +<li>Lieut.-Col. R. Scott, Fort George, Aberdeen.</li> +<li>Major Charles Stirling, late Royal Artillery.</li> +<li>Dr. Fowler Smith, District Recruiting Office, Peterborough.</li> +<li>Capt. C. Spurgeon, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Capt. H. Stopford, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>W. Smail, Esq., 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>R.B. Smyth, Esq., M.B. 102d Regiment.</li> +<li>Mrs. Threllfall, Ferryside, South Wales.</li> +<li>Capt. C. Townsend, Royal Artillery.</li> +<li>D. Thorburn, Esq., M.D., 8th Hussars.</li> +<li>Mrs. Wren, 3 Paris Square, Bayswater.</li> +<li>Charles Williams, Esq., Guernsey.</li> +<li>Watkin S. Whylock, Esq., M.D., Assist.-Surgeon.</li> +<li>Capt. H. Webb, 36th Regiment.</li> +<li>Mr Wetheral, Oak Lodge, Winchfield.</li> +<li>Netley Library.</li> +<li>And "Others received too late for publication."</li></ul> + + +<hr class="full" /> + +<h5>LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, BORDAGE-STREET.</h5> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Months of My Life, by J. F. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Three Months of My Life + +Author: J. F. Foster + +Release Date: November 30, 2004 [EBook #14213] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Melissa Er-Raqabi and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +[Transcriber's Note: At the conclusion of this diary, the author writes: +"If these notes should ever be written out by my relations after my +death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the many mistakes in +spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of the writing, may by +corrected and not set down to ignorance." The relations may indeed have +corrected many errors, but many remain, and they have been left as in +the original.] + + + + +THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE. + + +A DIARY + +OF THE LATE J.F. FOSTER, ASSISTANT-SURGEON, HER MAJESTY'S 36TH FOOT. + + + + +_Edited by LIZZIE A. FREETH._ + + +GUERNSEY: +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, 10, BORDAGE STREET. +LONDON: SIMPKIN & MARSHALL +1873. + + + + +I DEDICATE, + +_Firstly,_ + +MY GRATITUDE TO GOD-- +FOR HIS MERCY IN PRESERVING ME THUS FAR, +AND BRINGING ME SAFELY HOME AFTER +SEVERAL YEARS SERVICE IN INDIA, +TO MEET AGAIN ALL (SAVE ONE) THOSE MOST +DEAR TO ME. + +_And Secondly,_ + +MY BOOK TO MY PARENTS, +WITH THE CERTAIN AND HAPPY KNOWLEDGE +THAT THEY WILL READ WITHOUT CRITICISM +AND ONLY WITH AFFECTIONATE INTEREST, +THE ACCOUNT OF MY THOUGHTS AND EXPERIENCES +WHILE WANDERING IN A REMOTE +AND LOVELY CORNER OF +THE EARTH. + + + + +EDITOR'S PREFACE. + + +In laying the following pages before the public, I do so with a feeling +that they will be read with interest, not only by those who knew the +writer, but those to whom the scenes described therein are known, and +also those who appreciate a true description of a country which they may +never have the good fortune to see. We are all familiar with Kashmir in +the "fanciful imagery of Lalla Rookh," at the same time may not object +to reading an account--with a ring of truth in it--of that lovely land, +lovely and grand, beyond the power of poets to describe as it really +is, so travellers say. Readers will see that Mr. Foster intended to have +published this Diary himself had he been spared to reach England, he has +offered any apology that is necessary, so I will say nothing further +than to state, the daily entries were kept in a pocket-book written in +pencil, occasionally a word is not quite legible, that will account for +any little inaccuracy. After being two years at Elizabeth College, +Guernsey, under the Rev. A. Corfe, Mr. Foster entered St. George's +Hospital, as Student of Medicine, he received there in his last year the +"Ten Guinea Prize" for General Proficiency. From St. George's he went to +Netley, and on leaving that he served for a short time in Jersey, with +the 2nd Battallion 1st Royals, and 1st Battallion 6th Royals, after +which he embarked for India, where from February, 1868, to the beginning +of 1869, he served with the following Regiments, &c., 91st Highlanders, +at Dum Dum; F Battery C. Brigade Royal Horse Artillery, at Benares; 27th +Inniskillings, at Hazareebagh, Bengal Depot, Chinsurah; Detachment 58th +Regiment, at Sahibgunge; Head-Quarters 58th Regiment, at Sinchal, again +at the Bengal Depot Chinsurah; Head-Quarters 107th Regiment, at +Allahabad; Detachment 107th Regiment, at Fort Allahabad; G Battery 11th +Brigade Royal Artillery, at Cawnpore; Left Wing 36th Regiment, +Moradabad; Head-Quarters 36th Regiment, Peshawur, from whence +ultimately we find he started for Kashmir in the hope of regaining his +health, a vain hope as events proved, as he died on the passage home at +Malta. During the course of publication I have received many letters +from people who were personally acquainted with Mr. Foster who had met +him at home and abroad, from the tone of which letters I gather he was +held in the highest possible estimation as a friend, a medical man, and +an officer. I am indebted to the kindness of his father, Dr. John L. +Foster, of this island, for being allowed to publish these interesting +memorials of one who had now passed "To where beyond these voices there +is peace." + +LIZZIE A. FREETH. +Montpellier, Guernsey, Nov. 1873. + + + + +AUTHOR'S PREFACE. + + +This Work requires few prefatory remarks. I have transcribed without +alteration, the Diary that I kept during my visit to Kashmir. It may +seem a strange jumble of description and sentiment, jocularity and +seriousness. During the greater part of each day I enjoyed perfect rest, +smoking and thinking--sometimes soberly, often I fear idly--and for mere +occupation sake, my thoughts were written as they arose. My mind as +influenced by scene or incident, is fully exposed in these pages, and +while I have concealed nothing, neither have I added to that which I +originally indited. I am necessarily, and indeed intentionally +egotistical, because I write for those who will chiefly value a personal +narrative. Still, I am not ashamed if others see my book, although I +would deprecate their criticism by begging them to remember that I only +offer it for the perusal of those near and dear to me. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +In the early morning of Midsummer's-day, 1868, I might have been seen +slowly wending my way towards the office of the Deputy Inspector General +of Hospitals, at Peshawur--for the purpose of appearing before the +standing Medical Committee of the station, and having an enquiry made +concerning the state of my health. A Dooley followed me lest my strength +should prove inadequate to the task of walking a quarter of a mile. But +let me make my description as short as the Committee did their enquiry. +My face, as white as the clothes I wore, told more than my words could, +and I was hardly required to recount how that one burning May-day I was +called at noon to visit a sick woman, and that while all other Europeans +were in their closed and darkened bungalows with punkahs swinging, and +thermautidotes blowing cool breezes, I went forth alone on my medical +mission to encounter the fierce gaze of the baneful sun, and was +overpowered by its fiery influence, or how that I laid a weary month on +the sick bed, tormented by day with a never ceasing headache, and by +night with a terrible dread, worse than any pain, or to conclude, how +the deadly climate of that notoriously evil station afforded me no +prospect of improvement. This relation was scarcely needed to procure +me a certificate, stating that three months leave of absence to Murree +was absolutely essential for my recovery, and a recommendation that I +might be allowed to proceed immediately in anticipation of the leave +being granted. So the next evening saw me start from Peshawur for Rawul +Pindee, in a Dak Gharie, accompanied by my dog "Silly" and my Madrapee +servant or "Boy." Onwards we sped at a gallop, the horses being changed +every six miles, through Nowshera, the furnace; over the rapid and icy +cold Indus by boat; past Fort Attock, the oven in which our soldiers are +done to death; and Hussan Aboul of Lallah Rooke celebrity; arriving at +the French Hotel at Pinder, ten miles from Peshawur the following +morning. That day I called upon the Officers of the 6th Foot, with whom +I had served in Jersey, and was persuaded to dine at mess. A melancholy +dinner it was for me, meeting old friends whom I had not seen for so +long. Yet not possessing energy enough for conversation or feeling the +spirit of "Hail fellows, well met." I felt that my moody silence and +ghostlike appearance (for I was dressed in black) threw a gloom over +them. This was no doubt a morbid fancy as also was perhaps the idea that +they looked at me with pitying eyes. But these feelings seized me, and +increased till they became unbearable, and I was glad to escape to my +Hotel. + + + + +"THREE MONTHS OF MY LIFE." + +A DIARY. + + +JULY 4th, 1868.--Started from Murree for Kashmir at 5.30 a.m. Bell, +Surgeon 36th Regt. [Since deceased] came with me four miles. Walked on +expecting the dandy to overtake me, but it did not, and I marched all +the way, nine miles up a steep hill to Khaira Gullee, where I halted and +put up in one of the old sheds formerly used by the working party when +the road was being made. I am not tired, though my left heel is +blistered, which is fair considering I have not walked half a mile for +more than a month. The road is excellent and the scenery fine, the Khuds +being sometimes deep, but nothing like the eastern Himalayas. The forest +too is quite different, fir trees predominating here. Saw many beautiful +birds, and regretted I had not brought my gun. In the evening a +thunderstorm came on with a cold wind from the north, so I made a good +fire with a few fir logs. In the middle of the night the storm became +very violent, and large hailstones fell. + + +JULY 5th.--Got away at sunrise, the rain having quite cleared off, and +marched on to Doonga Gullee, up a hill to an elevation of 9,000 feet, +and then down again to about 7,000; then up a final steep to Doonga +Gullee, 8,000 feet above the sea. The Khuds much grander very deep and +precipitous, sometimes falling one or two thousand feet from the edge of +the road almost perpendicularly. But the hills are too close together to +allow the valleys to be termed magnificent. Reached Doonga Gullee at 10 +a.m. The length of last march, eleven miles--the road, a good military +one, has been cut in the face of the mountain. Put up at the Dak +Bungalow, and dined with the officers of the working party; among them +Heath, of the 88th, and Leggatt and Lyons, of the 77th, whom I knew. A +number of tents are pitched here for the working parties from the 19th +and 77th Regiments (road making). I was carried part of the march in my +dandy--a piece of carpet gathered at each end and hooked to a pole,--the +pole being carried on the shoulders of two men. I swung below it just +off the ground, and could often look down a vast depth between my knees. +My first pickled tongue, cooked the day before yesterday was fly-blown +at breakfast this morning. This may seem a trifling note, but it is +ominous I fear for the whole of my salted stores. + + +JULY 6th.--Got up at 4 o'clock and marched on to Bugnoota, a distance +of thirteen miles. The first four miles a slight rise, and then a rapid +descent all the rest of the way. The road is much narrower, only a mule +track in fact, I walked twelve miles, and then felt tired, and had a +headache afterwards. Pitched my tent in a tope, (a grove of trees) in +company with Dr. and Mrs. Holmes, of Rohat, whom I did not know. Slight +rain in the middle of the day, but it cleared off towards evening. Felt +all right after an hour's sleep and took a stroll before dinner. Scenery +grand, tent pitched on the edge of a deep gorge at the bottom of which +is a mountain stream, the hills rising abruptly on the opposite side. + + +JULY 7th.--Marched on to Abbottabad at sunrise, down hill to the river, +and then along its course for two miles over very rough and fatiguing +ground, the river having to be forded twice. In rainy weather this is +very dangerous as its rush is so impetuous. Up hill again then down into +the plain of Abbottabad, 4,000 feet above the sea. Distance twelve miles +though only put down eight in the route. Met the General at the bottom +of the hill. Put up at the Dak Bungalow, and met Ford, 88th, and De +Marylski, R.A., returning from Kashmir, got some hints from them. +Abbottabad is a small cantonment on a large plain surrounded by bare +mountains, a notice is posted in my room warning travellers not to go +unarmed; so I'll gird on my Kookery to-morrow. A Kookery is a formidable +native knife, about eighteen inches long and over two inches wide, +carried in a peculiar way, sheep and goats heads come off very easily at +a single blow from it. Much hotter down here, the sun powerful after 10 +o'clock, but Punkahs not necessary. This is the Head-Quarters of the +Punjab Frontier force. A pity they do not have an English Regiment +stationed here as it is a very pleasant place as regards climate. Snow +in winter, and this the warmest time of the year quite bearable. +Brigadier gone to the _hills_ for the _hot weather._ Took in supplies of +bread and butter and purchased a pair of chuplus or sandals for +marching in, as boots hurt my feet. + + +JULY 8th.--A long tedious march of nearly fifteen miles to Mansera, put +down in the guide as a level plain road, but having a good many ups and +downs. One of my sandals broke, and I was obliged to ride in the dandy +about half way. Some difficulty occurred in getting my baggage off as +the Coolies did not come. Left my boy to manage it, he came in about +noon with two ponies, I shall not pay for them yet, and then they will +come on with me. A warmer day than yesterday. Mountains rising up in +front, which I shall begin to ascend to-morrow if I make the whole march +of twenty miles. Snow visible above all. The real work of the trip will +now soon commence. The marches hitherto have been child's play compared +with those to come. Mansera is only a native village, but there is a Dak +Bungalow, in which I am now. Met Captain Ellis, of the 4th Hussars, +returning from Kashmir, and had a talk with him. There are _two_ routes +open to me, he advises the one which yesterday I was warned against by +the other fellows. They have been over both roads, yet do not agree as +to which is the best. Ellis was disappointed with Kashmir, but he has +only been a few months in India, and has not yet forgotten England, for +I expect that Kashmir after all, is only so very pleasant, by contrast +with the plains of India. + + +JULY 9th.--Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to +Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in +sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on. +First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an +undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking +owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it +as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to +Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance +rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by +high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the melting +of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my tub at +the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dak +Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank +of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension +bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I +look at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are +two other men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have +not mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell +all. Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under +flannels, two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of +ammunitions," socks, handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a +small tent called a "shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight +feet square, a dressing bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin, +salted tongues and humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one +bottle of brandy, to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy +or bedstead, cane stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking +utensils, brass drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with +white cover, a dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap, +tobacco, soap, and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into +Kashmir, and bag of money, and "voila tout." For carrying this baggage, +I require two mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable, +seven Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going +all the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day, +and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent some +Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian +fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without +much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as +of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant +music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time +in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been +altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen +and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few +men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate, +when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many experiences +to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully done up towards +the end of the march. At last we came to a running stream in which he +laid down and was much refreshed, before that his panting had become +gasping though he kept up with us bravely, only lying down for a moment +when we came to a little bit of shade--not often met with, the last +three or four miles. For the last day or two, I have been almost +continually in a cool, gentle perspiration, this is a great contrast to +my state when at Peshawur, where my skin was always as dry as a bone, +and I look upon that as a healthy symptom, I have had no headache since +I left Bugnostan. + + +JULY 10th.--To Mozufferabad nine miles, but apparently much more, such a +bad fatiguing march. I got away with the first grey of the dawn and +after a mile's tramp began the ascent of the Doabbuller pass, three and +a half miles long and very steep, so steep that I could often touch the +ground with my hands without stooping much. This was terribly exhausting +and I had to make many halts to recover my breath. Then began a rough +descent along the side of a mountain torrent and afterwards over its +bed, which is a narrow gorge between high hills. This walking was very +rough and difficult; the path being covered with great stones and often +undistinguishable. Indeed it was no path at all, only the ground +occasionally a little trodden. Through the stream, backwards and +forwards _innumerable_ times we went. I found that my feet, though naked +except where covered by the straps of the sandals, were able to take +care of themselves, and avoid contusion almost without the help of my +eyes. Then I came to a large and rapid river called the Kishun-gunga +crossed by a rope bridge. Let me describe the bridge. Three or four +leather ropes about one inch in diameter tied into a bundle to walk +upon, three feet above this, a couple of ropes, two feet apart, the +upper ropes connected to the lower one at intervals of four or five +yards by stakes. This formed a V shape, and you walk on the point of the +V and hold on by the two sides. The breadth of the river is sixty yards, +and the bridge which is high above the water forms a considerable curve. +The description of the bridge is easy enough, but how shall I describe +my feelings, when I had gone a few yards and found myself poised in +mid-air like a spider on a web, oscillating, swaying backwards and +forwards over a foaming and roaring torrent, the rush of the water if I +looked at my feet, made me feel as if I was being violently carried in +the opposite direction; the bridge swayed and jumped with the weight of +half a dozen natives coming from the opposite side whom I had to pass, +the whole thing seemed so weak and the danger so terrible that I turned +giddy, lost my head, and cried out to be held. A firm hand at once +grasped me behind and another in front. I shut my eyes and so proceeded +a few yards. Then those dreadful men had to be passed. Imagine meeting +a man on a rope fifty feet above a torrent and requiring him to "give +you the wall." However they were passed by a mysterious interlacing of +feet; and when half way over I regained confidence, and bid the men +"chando" or release me, and so gained the opposite bank, where I sat +down and roared with laughter at my "boy" who was then coming over, and +who evidently was much more affected than I was. However he arrived +safely with his black face _pale_, dripping with perspiration and saying +he was sick. What was most amusing was to see him hooking his legs one +in front of the other on his way over, but I dare say I was equally +laughable to anyone on terra firma. He told me afterwards "water all go +down, and I go up and get sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low +ridge and I got to Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by +the Maharajah for the convenience of English travellers free of charge, +for we are now in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow +built of mud and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves +the trouble of pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet +weather. I have not had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's +Horse, at the bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from +him for the day, and made some notes at the other end of this book. +There is a picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the +bridge, built by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick. +It was interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream. +Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated +Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for +carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they +were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite side. +To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their +impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to certain +destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the whole +of this march, though often tired, as I preferred trusting my own legs +to being carried in the dandy over such bad ground. Curran, +Assistant-Surgeon, 88th Connaught Rangers, is one march in front of me. +He has left his pony here till he returns. I suppose the last march was +too much for him. I am very glad I did not bring my horse with me; I was +strongly advised to do so, but I am afraid advice has not much weight +with me; in this instance anyhow, my own opinion has proved the best. +All the men I meet coming back have horses with them, but they are +nearly all shoeless, lame and sick, and have not been ridden for weeks. + + +JULY 11th.--Marched on Hultian, distant seventeen miles. Much better +road than yesterday, but many ups and downs and short rough bits. +Started two hours before sunrise, by the light of the moon. The road +soon reached the right bank of the Jhelum and continued the whole +distance alongside of that river. It is a rapid river apparently not so +deep and often not so wide as the Kishun-gunga, its bed strewn with huge +boulders over which the water breaks in great waves of foam. It runs in +a narrow rocky channel the precipitous sides of which are a great +height. How many ages must it have taken to cut this channel in the +solid rock? The valley is bounded by high hills, very narrow, the road +so bare of trees, that the latter half of the march became hot and +wearying, so I had recourse to the dandy for four or five miles. But it +was rare gymnastic exercise as swinging from my pole I had to dodge the +great stones on either side of me and keep a sharp look out to avoid +hard bumps. My dog was again very much fatigued. His tail is a good +token of his state, for when fresh it is stiff along his back, and +gradually drops as he goes along until he is quite exhausted, when it +hangs straight down. Stopped at a Barahduree (not so good a one as the +last) a few feet above the Jhelum in which I bathed. There is a rope +bridge opposite, a much older one than the other I crossed, but not more +than half as long, and not high above the water, some of the ropes are +broken, and it seems very shaky. However, I must cross it to-morrow and +get into the Murree road, which runs parallel to this one, on the other +bank, and is on the shady side and much cooler. It has been very hot all +day. The reason I could not come the direct road from Murree is because +the ferry over the Jhelum lower down, was recently carried away and +twenty-six natives drowned. Sir G. Larpent's (of the 88th) baggage was +in the boat, and he lost it all. He had not crossed and had to go back +to Murree minus everything including servants. There is excellent +Mahseer fishing in this river, the fish attain the enormous size of +80lbs. weight and afford exciting sport; but I have no tackle with me, +and did not even bring a gun, as I thought I should be too seedy to do +anything but moon about. I did not then know the great exertion +necessary to reach Kashmir, an exertion which any man with bodily +infirmity would hardly venture on without first providing himself with +an undertaker. Upon making enquiries I find that all the Coolies and +supplies on the other road, have been sent over to this side, so I must +keep to it and not cross as I intended. In the evening a slim young +native came to me and offered to swim across the river for Bakhshish, "a +present." I promised it to him, and he ran a quarter of a mile up, and +plunged into the torrent, landing on the opposite side a little below +the bungalow. He then went up the river again, and swam down to this +side, no mean feat in turbulent water running as it did with tremendous +velocity. I gave him eight annas for it. + + +JULY 12th, "Sunday."--In the middle of last night a storm came on, I was +sleeping in the open air, and the lightning awoke me, it was beginning +to rain, and I had to move into the house. It was broad daylight when I +was called, and I felt disinclined to proceed. I said it would rain, and +I would halt. My boy said, "No Sir, no rain." I said the sun would come +out and it would be burning hot. He said, "No Sir, no sun." I felt it +was useless continuing the argument, so I got up and marched to Kunda, +eighteen miles, walking all the way. A hard march, nothing but steep +rough ascents, and corresponding descents, still keeping along the +river, but two or three hundred feet above it. My Coolies pointed out to +me a herd of "chiken" on a very high hill, at least four miles away. I +saw nothing, for even big trees at that distance were diminished to +very small objects, but did not dispute with them. They say uncivilized +man has wonderful sight, and if deer were there, he certainly has far +higher powers of vision even, than I had been led to expect. Met three +men leaving Kashmir, and exchanged remarks with them. Don't know who +they were. Caught sight of my destination from the top of one hill, and +was delighted to see it was quite close to me. But alas! several weary +miles of up and down and in and out had to be traversed before it could +be reached. This has several times happened to me, and I shall in future +put no faith in appearances. The Barahduree here is a two storied one, +standing I should think five hundred feet above the river, which is +here confined in a very narrow channel. I took the upper room which has +three sides and a roof, there being no wall facing the river, over which +there is a fine and rather extended view, the more distant mountains +being crowned with pine forests. Had neither sun nor rain while +marching, but soon afterwards the sun shone out, though heavy and +threatening clouds continued to hang about the horizon. As I write this +I hear the first roll of thunder, there will be another storm to-night. +The Maharajah's officials come to me at every stage to enquire my wants +and provide for the same. Other natives also come with an insane +request,--a medical prescription for a sick Bhai (or brother) who +always has fever, and is at a great distance. What possible use a +prescription could be to them I cannot decide. The storm came up just +before dinner, 6 p.m., and was rather sharp but soon over. I came up the +valley of the Jhelum, and I watched its course for some time before it +arrived. It subsequently struck the edge of the house and I was all +right; had it come down the valley which runs at right angles to the +Jhelum just opposite here I should have been blown out. I again noticed +that to which my attention has often been directed, viz.: that when in +or near the storm clouds, the thunder is of quite a different character +to that heard below. It is a continuous low muttering growl without any +claps or peals. I have stood in the storm cloud at Sinchal, 9,000 feet +high, with the lightning originating around me and affording the +sublimest spectacle of dazzling brilliancy, and varying in colour from +the purest white light to delicious rose and blue tints. I have seen it +intensified and focussed as it were within a few feet of me, and from +this centre angled lines and balls of fire like strings of beads +radiated in all directions. Yet the thunder which in the plains was +heard pealing and roaring its loudest, was up there barely audible. + + +JULY 13th.--From Kunda to Kuthin twelve miles of hard toiling over a +similar road to that of the last march, finishing with a long, steep, +and very rough ascent to the high plateau on which Kuthin stands. On the +top of this I took to my dandy and was carried a mile along the level to +the Barahduree, where I slept upon the charpoy which is provided at +every bungalow for the weary travellers to rest upon pending the arrival +of his baggage. These plateaus or table lands exist at intervals all the +way up the valley, sometimes on one side sometimes on the other and +occasionally on both the river in the middle. They are quite flat, very +small, and highly productive, and vary from fifty to three or four +hundred feet in height, above the river. The valley which widens where +they exist, is narrowed again at either extremity. I can only account +for their formation by supposing that at a former time, a chain of lakes +existed, of which they are the beds, and that the water subsequently +burst through and formed the channel of the present Jhelum, leaving +these beds dry as we now see them. Came across a number of large tailed +butterflies of a lovely green and blue metallic lustre. Secured an +un-injured specimen, and for want of a better place stuck it inside my +topee, where I expect to carry it safely until my return to Peshawur. +Another storm came on earlier than yesterday. I have been very lucky +hitherto, not having had a drop of rain while marching. This morning was +cloudy till within a mile or two of Kuthin when the sun shone and made +the last ascent doubly trying. This is a very small village (at Kunda +there was only one hut) but there is a mud fort with bastions at each +corner but no guns. The walls are loop-holed for musketry, but there +does not seem to be any garrison. On making enquiries, I find there is a +garrison of seven men. It is getting dusk and mosquitoes are coming out +by hundreds, they have not annoyed me before, but I think I must use my +net to-night. I lie on my bed after dinner smoking with a lighted candle +by my side. A hornet flies in and settles on my hand, then a large +beetle comes with a buzz and a thud against me, making me start. Sundry +moths, small flies, and beetles, are playing innocently round the flame. +In half an hour I shall be able to make a fair entomological collection +but as I neither (Ha! I've killed the hornet) desire them in my hat +dead, nor in my bed alive, I must put out the light, give up writing, +and smoke in darkness. + + +JULY 14th.--To Shadera, twelve miles walked all the way. The road worse +than ever, and for the last mile actually dangerous, as it passed along +the edge of a deep precipice, and was only a foot wide and considerably +out of the horizontal, so that a single false step would have been +fatal. Road continued same character all the way along, though much +above the tortuous and noisy Jhelum, and its ups and downs were the +roughest, longest, and most trying, I have yet experienced. I am pleased +to know that the remaining two marches will be, in the words of my +Coolies over "uch'-cha rasta," a good road. It remained cloudy and +threatening the greater part of the way, and a little rain fell, but +eventually the sun shone, though great masses of "cumuli" continue to +hang about. This is a small village completely shut in by three huge +hills standing very close together. Between the sides of the two in +front, the summit of a fourth is visible, a magnificent towering +mountain, covered with a dense pine forest. I have not seen the snows +since I crossed the Doobbullee pass, as we have been ascending the +valley of the Jhelum ever since, and the view is confined by its lofty +sides. I have eaten my last loaf for breakfast this morning, and now one +of the greatest privations of the journey will begin. No bread, nothing +but flour and water made into a kind of pancake, which the natives call +"chepattie." I have not tasted fresh meat since I left Abbottabad, but +that one can do very well without. I live upon fowls, eggs, milk, butter +and rice, with a tongue or hump, cooked when necessary. Two or three +miles from Kuthai, we passed a very pretty waterfall. The slender stream +fell over a smooth perpendicular rock, of a rich brown colour, 100 feet +high, like a thread of silver. Both sides of the gorge covered with a +variety of beautifully green trees, shrubs and ferns, altogether +constituting a delightful picture, the tints mingled so harmoniously, +yet with strong contrasts. Stopped at the Barahduree as usual, this one +surrounded with wild fig, plum, peach, pomegranate, and mulberry trees. +The mulberries only ripe, and like all wild fruit, small and +comparatively tasteless. + + +JULY 15th.--Started as soon as it was light for Gingle, fourteen miles +distant. Road greatly improved, hilly of course, but tolerably smooth so +that one could get on without clambering. About half way passed Dorie on +the left bank of the river, where there is another fort and a strong +rope bridge, it is one of the halts on the Murree road, farther on came +to an old ruin, four thick walls perforated by arches enclosing an open +square in the middle of two of the sides, large masses of masonry formed +archways or entrances. It is built of the rough stones and boulders with +which the surface of the ground is covered, yet the arches are of very +good shape. On the opposite bank of the Jhelum there are forests of +Deodar, but though they grow down to the waters edge, there is not one +on this side. (Larix Deodora, called by the Hindoos, "the God Tree" is a +stately pine, growing to a great height, and of a very gradual and +elegant taper. Its foliage is of the darkest green colour, and it gives +the mountains a very sombre appearance.) The hills have become much more +rugged and abrupt. I know of no single condition which gives a scene so +great an aspect of wildness and desolation, as dead fir trees. There +they stand on the most barren and inaccessible places, rearing their +gaunt and whitened forms erect as ever, and though lifeless yet not +decayed. Seared and blasted by a thousand storms, they stand stern and +silent, ghostlike and immoveable, scorning the elements. No wind murmurs +pleasantly through their dead and shrunken branches, the howling tempest +alone can make them speak, and then with wild straining shriek and harsh +rattle, they do battle with the whirlwind. It was getting hot and I was +thinking of my dandy, when a storm passed over with heavy rain. This was +a mitigated evil (if an evil at all for my bed remained dry, and a wet +bed is the worst result of a shower) as it rendered walking cool and +pleasant. It cleared up again, and I rode the last half mile. The +cleanest and best bungalow here I have been in since I left Ghuri. The +view down the valley is extremely pretty, hills rising one above the +other, but shut in on all other sides by high mountains. Gingle, which +is only one or two huts, stands on a small plateau a quarter of a mile +long by one hundred and fifty yards wide, fifty feet above the Jhelum. +The ground is laid out in paddy fields irrigated by a stream of the +coolest and purest water. It is a great satisfaction to be able to drink +water freely without fear. In the plains of India the water is so +contaminated as to be almost poisonous, and I do not think that previous +to this march I had drank a gallon of it since I landed in Calcutta. + + +JULY 16th.--Left Gingle with the earliest streak of dawn for Baramula, +an eighteen mile march. Road very much more level, never ascending high +above the river whose erratic course we continued to follow. Passed +through groves of hazel overrun by wild vines, but both grapes and nuts +as yet green. The plateaus become gradually larger and almost +continuous, and the hills separated and diminished in size, those on the +right being covered with the lank deodar, while those on the left +possessed only a bright green mantle of grass, far away in front they +altogether ended, and the open sky above the valley was alone visible. +And now an unusual occurrence presented itself. We were following the +stream upwards towards its source, yet at every mile it increased in +width and became more placid, till at length its surface was unbroken, +and it assumed the form of a magnificent river, wider than the Thames at +Richmond. The hills continued provokingly to overlap one another as +though anxious to shut in and hide the happy valley from sight. But at +length I discerned a far distant white cloud which I guessed betokened +the summit of a mountain, and a few yards further revealed a faint +glistening opaque line which the inexperienced eye would have certainly +taken for a portion of the cloud, but which could not be mistaken by one +who had before seen the snows. About half a mile from Buramula we +obtain the first view of the Vale of Kashmir, but not an extensive one, +as it is obstructed on either side by low hills. However, what is seen +is very pretty. A large level plain traversed by a broad smooth river +which has now lost its tortuous zig-zag course and bounded by the +everlasting snows covering the main backbone of the Himalayas. At the +head of the valley stands the quaint looking town of Baramula surrounded +by hills on all sides but one, embowered in trees and intersected by the +Jhelum, across which there is a good wooden bridge. The houses have +mostly an upper story, and are built of wood with gabled roofs. The +streets are narrow and roughly paved, and I regret to say are not more +pleasant to the nostrils than are those of other Indian towns. The +bridge built of deodar wood, beams of which are driven into the bed of +the river, and then others laid horizontally upon them, each row at +right angles to and projecting beyond the layer beneath, till a +sufficient height has been reached, six of these and two stone piers +form the buttresses of the bridge and a broad pathway of planks connects +them. The march was a fatiguing one on account of its length, and I used +the dandy freely. I shall however discard it altogether for the future. +I went to the Barahduree but found it occupied by a man whose name I was +told was "----," had been there five days. His Coolies had taken +possession of all the rooms, and though I was very angry and inclined to +turn them out, I thought my tent would be preferable to a room just +vacated by the uncleanly native, so I went to an orchard close by, +surrounded by a row of fine poplars, and patiently awaited the arrival +of my baggage which was a long time coming. The gate was guarded by the +Maharajah's sepoys who endeavoured to prevent my entrance. The Thikadar +told me he had no authority for this, but had done it "Zubbur-dustee." +They also say that the occupant of the Barahduree has just come from +England. He is a being shrouded in mystery, and I shall endeavour to +unravel it. My first step will be to report the occurrence to the +officials at S---- when I get there. I took a swim in the Jhelum, whose +course I have now followed for eighty-four crooked miles, and on whose +bosom I shall to-morrow continue my journey. + + +JULY 17th.--By boat up the river, the day so bright, the view so +glorious, the breeze so balmy and delicious, and the motion so gentle +and pleasant, that lying on my bed I devote myself to lazy listlessness, +to a perfect sense of the "dolce far niente" and can hardly prevail on +myself to disturb my tranquillity by writing these few notes. The +contrast to my thirteen heavy marches is so great that I am content to +remain for the present without thought or action, enjoying absolute +rest. Evening--We halt at Sopoor, and now let me endeavour to continue +the diary. Got up at seven this morning and sent for a boat, one of the +larger kind about thirty feet long, and six feet broad in the middle, +the centre portion covered with an awning made of grass matting. The +crew consisting of an entire family, from the elderly parents to quite +young children--9 in all. I was towed up the still widening river by all +of them in turns, one wee girl not three feet high being most energetic, +though I should think of little real service. Boat flat bottomed, and +alike at both ends, they use paddles instead of oars. But the scene! I +am unable now to do justice to it, so I will only give the outlines to +be elaborated hereafter. Splendid river--verdant plain covered with many +varieties of trees, poplar and chenar or tulip tree the most +conspicuous, extending as far as the eye can reach and enclosed by lofty +snow capped mountains, on which rest the clouds of heaven. Bright blue +King-fishers darting like flashes of light or hovering hawk-like before +the plunge after fish and the many hued dragon flies upon the water +weeds. Among the several varieties of the weeds, I noticed a great +quantity of "Anacharis." Got fresh mutton and apple-pie for dinner. +Swarms of very minute flies came to the candle dancing their dance of +death. Many thousands were destroyed, and their bodies darkened the +board which serves me for a table. Sopoor like Baramula, river bridged, +and grass growing on the roofs of the houses. + + +JULY 18th.--In the night we moved on, and at five in the morning I was +awoke at the foot of Shukuroodeen Hill, 700 feet high, which I intended +to ascend, and get a _coup d'oeil_ of the valley. Instead of being on a +river, the water now spread out into a great lake (Lake Wulloor) the +largest in Kashmir. Got up and began to ascend the hill, but when half +way up, the strap of one of my sandals gave way, and as I could not +mend it, I was obliged to descend; however, I got an extensive view of +the valley lying spread out at my feet, the lake occupying a great +portion of the view. Went on to Alsoo (about three hours) from whence I +shall march to Lalpore the other side of a range of high hills which +rise very near the water. We are thirty miles from Baramula. The lake is +in many parts covered with a carpet of elegant water weeds which makes +it look like a green meadow, among them the Singara or water nut, a +curiously growing plant which bears spiny pods enclosing a soft +delicately flavoured kernel--heart-shaped, as big as a filbert. +Mosquitoes by thousands, and very annoying, red and distended with their +crimson feast. Alsoo--a rather uninteresting place, grand mountains. +Huramuk to the East, and great expanse of water. + + +JULY 19th, Sunday.--On the march again to Lalpore, twelve miles. I left +my heavy baggage and dandy in the boat (which here awaits my return) and +only took my tent and bedding with one week's stores, the whole only +four coolie loads, and now began my first taste of real mountain work. +For nearly four hours I was ascending the steep range which rises above +Alsoo, and hard toiling it was. Half way up we met some men with +butter-milk, of which my boy made me drink a quantity, saying it would +"keep master cool." As we rose--the vale spread out magnificently +beneath us, and the large lake was seen to full advantage shining under +the morning sun, which appeared from behind a grand snow-clad mountain. +Near the top we came to the prettiest stream I have seen, its banks +covered with maiden hair and other ferns, fruit trees and firs, and its +surface skimmed by gorgeous flies. The summit gained, I was well +rewarded by a view of the whole of the Solab an off-shoot of the main +valley. A bright gem in a dark setting of deodar covered mountains, +spurs from which radiated into the valley so fair and verdant with its +many villages, its meandering streams, and frequent orchards, the air +laden with the perfume of many flowers. My Bheisties even exclaimed +"bahut ach chtu." I gazed entranced. The descent was long but a much +better path. Going down I came to wild raspberries which I must say were +as large and well flavoured as any garden grown ones, there was also a +small yellow plum which was very nice. Arrived at Lalpore the principal +village, I encamped under a large walnut tree (very fine trees and very +common) covered with its nuts. This valley abounds with bears, I was +certainly cooler after taking the butter-milk, but I attributed it to +the ascent being less steep and the path shady. Saw a magnificent +butterfly of a specimen I did not recognise; attempted to catch it, but +like many other desirable objects in this world, it eluded my grasp at +the very moment I thought I had secured it. Got a fine one of a commoner +sort which I placed in my hat, where the other remains uninjured. + + +JULY 20th.--I halt at Salpore, awaiting the arrival of my Sirdar dandy +coolie, an intelligent, useful, Kashmiree man, whom I engaged to +continue with me as a servant at Baramula, and gave him four days leave +to visit his home, arranging that he should rejoin me here. I lie under +the shade of the wide spreading walnut trees, inhaling the fragrant +breeze, and enjoying perfect quietude and repose. All is so grand and +peaceful, that my heart swells with holy thoughts of praise and +gratitude to the Almighty Creator, and while gazing on one of the +fairest portions of his great work I find myself unconsciously repeating +the glorious psalm "O come let us sing unto the Lord." It would indeed +be a hard heart and a dull spirit that did not rejoice in the scene, and +acknowledge the power and magnificence of its maker. I see around me +this garden of Kashmir where every tree bears fruit for the use of man, +and every shrub, bright flowers for his enjoyment. Enclosed and guarded +by "the strength of the hills" (a noble sentence which never never +before so forcibly impressed me) and covered by the purest of blue +skies. All nature seems to say to me "To-day if ye hear his voice, +harden not your hearts," and surely the "still small voice" is speaking, +and can be heard by those who will heed it, and have the heart to feel +and the soul to rejoice in the strength of their salvation. The memory +of the beautiful duett in "Haydn's Creation," when newly made Adam and +Eve unite in praising God and extolling his wonderful works comes +freshly before me. Now, something akin to this must have crossed the +mental vision of the grand old Maestro when he wrote; and its calm +glorious music well accords with my present state of mind. + + +JULY 21st.--A pleasant stroll of ten miles before breakfast to +Koomerial along the level valley, through shady groves of apple, pear, +green-gage, peach, and mulberry trees, and forests of cherry trees +drooping with the weight of their golden blushing fruit. I have not seen +any vines in the Solab. Koomerial is a very small place, and I had a +little difficulty in getting supplies. I ought to have gone three miles +further to a large village; but I'll go there to-morrow, and then return +to Alsoo in two marches. A native came to me with the toothache, begging +assistance, but the tooth required extracting and I could do nothing for +him. Pitched under a walnut tope--the climate delicious, like a warm +English summer, but it is rather hot in my small tent in the middle of +the day; so I have my Charpoy put outside in the shade and lie there +smoking my pipe and thinking. I have spoken of the beauties and +pleasures of the Solab, but I must not omit mention of its annoyances, +flies and mosquitoes, by day the flies abound and cause much irritation +to any exposed part of the body. I do hate tame flies, flies that though +driven away twenty times elude capture, and will pertinaciously return +to the same spot--say your nose--until one is driven nearly mad with +vexation. At dusk the flies return to roost, and then myriads of +mosquitoes emerge from their hiding places, and make night hideous with +their monotonous hum and blood-thirsty propensities. I do not find +chepatties so bad as I expected, indeed I rather like them, but then my +boy makes them excellently well, using soda in their composition. The +process of manufacture is not pleasant--the flour is made into a paste, +and then flattened and consolidated by being thrown backwards and +forwards from one hand to the other, though one may avoid seeing this, +it is difficult to escape hearing the pit-pat of the soft dough as it +passes rapidly between the Khitmutgars extended, and I fear not always +clean fingers, it is then toasted, brought in hot, and you may eat it +dirt and all. But travellers must not be too particular, and so long as +your food is wholesome, eat and be thankful. But here comes my dinner, +with the chepatties I have just seen prepared, and which sight suggested +the foregoing lines. Chicken for breakfast, chicken for dinner, chicken +yesterday, chicken to-morrow, _toujours_ chicken, sometimes curried, +sometimes roasted, torn asunder and made into soup, stew or cutlets, or +with extended wing forming the elegant spatchcock, it is still chicken; +the greatest and rarest change being that it is occasionally rather +tender. I have had chicken soup and roast fowl for dinner, the chicken +in the soup as stringy as hemp, the fowl as tough as my sandal, and with +so large a liver that I doubted whether the bird had not met with a +violent death. I like fowl's liver, it is my one _bonne bouche_ during +the day, but these startled me, and after straining my teeth on the +carcase, I gladly swallow the soft mouthful. Oh! English readers, you +who have never wandered far from your native shores and who esteem +chickens a luxury to put on your supper table at your festive +gatherings, come to India and surfeit on your dainties, you will see it +calmly collecting its daily food unsuspicious of danger, then comes the +rush and loud clacking as it flies pursued by the ferocious native, +ending with cries of despair and the fluttering and hoarse gurgle of its +death throes, in half an hour Murghi will be placed before you hot and +tempting to the eye but hard as nails to the touch; they are cheap in +this part of the world. I pay one anna (or three halfpence) for a +chicken, or two annas for a full grown fowl. + + +JULY 22nd.--A little march of three miles to Koopwaddie. I am glad I +came here for one or two reasons. In the first place the walk afforded +me a nearer and finer view of the head of the valley, surmounted by its +high and rugged snow peaks; and secondly, I find I can return from here +to Sopoor in two marches instead of going back over the old road. From +Sopoor I shall boat to Alsoo. The range which at Lalpore was on the +further side of the valley has gradually approached the other hills +until now they are only a quarter of a mile apart, and are connected by +short low spurs which I crossed this morning. My road to-morrow will be +behind the first mentioned range, where another portion of the valley +lies. The valley is in fact fork-shaped, intersected by a mountainous +ridge which runs from its lower end for about fifteen miles. The two +portions then unite and form one valley up to the snows, and Koopwaddie +is situated at their junction. The Solab proper is only the eastern arm +which is formed into a _cul de sac_ by the mountains, and in which +Lalpore stands. + + +JULY 23rd.--To Chargle ten miles down the western fork of a valley +rough and uncultivated by comparison with the Solab. Over a low range of +hills with a very steep descent to Chargle standing on the left bank of +the Pohroo river. Not finding a good place on that side I forded the +river, which is not more than two feet deep, and encamped on smooth +green sward under a walnut tope on the other bank. Fine view from the +top of the hill of the level valley through which the Pohroo runs, with +the broad Jhelum shining like silver in the distance. This plain is laid +out in open fields, and lacks trees except round the numerous villages. +The surrounding hills too are comparatively bare, and their summits are +to-day obscured by the low-lying clouds. + + +JULY 24th.--A hot and uncomfortable walk of twelve miles on the exposed +and uninteresting road to Sopoor. There were but few trees to afford any +shade, but there were mulberries bearing ripe fruit, under which you +know it is impossible to sit down. From Sopoor to Alsoo (sixteen miles) +by boat, slowly driving all day through the tangled weeds and water +lilies. At Soopoor I waited for my boy to get what he wanted for my +breakfast (which he would prepare on board) and while waiting, a +procession of natives came with bells and flags, and something +surrounded by curtains and carried under a canopy, but I could not see +what it was. It was being fanned vigorously by several men and was no +doubt very holy. A large number of men (Mahometans) followed, shouting +loudly when the bells were rung, and some of them chanted a slow but not +unpleasing melody. They were praying for rain which is rare in this +country, and which is now required for the crops. My boy returned +bringing with him to my joy a fore quarter of mutton. Stopped at +Shukuroodeen for the evening, the wind being too strong to proceed. +Those flat bottomed boats with their large heavy awnings are very +cranky. + + +JULY 25th.--Started early for Alsoo. Found my old boat where I had left +it, but brought my baggage on board of this one, which I mean to keep +to, as the boatman is a much more useful fellow than the other man. He +acts as a servant, knows all the places I am going to, including +Ummernath, and has many excellent characters from those who have +employed him. There was such a scene when my intentions were made known +to the other crew, at first with tears and folded hands they +supplicated, but when that proved useless they took to cursing and +gesticulating, which they continued as their boat moved away and so long +as they were within hearing, screaming across the water, making faces, +and shaking their fists aloft; the old man was especially violent, it +was very laughable. My present crew consists of the man I have +mentioned, three good looking young woman, one of whom has the hooping +cough, and a variety of children I have not yet made out the different +relations to each other. There was lightning and some heavy rain last +night (the result no doubt of yesterday's ceremony) and the sky is still +gloomy and overcast. On from Alsoo after Chota Hazree or first breakfast +to Lunka, a small island, which is only fifty yards square, is thickly +covered with pine trees, with trailing grape vines clinging around their +boughs, on it stands an old ruin, and fallen pillars and carved stones +litter the ground. From a distance it looked very lovely, floating as +it were on the bosom of the open waters, but as we neared it an +unpleasant odour became perceptible, rapidly increasing to a horrid +stench. This proceeded from a colony of natives who were in temporary +habitation of the island, and were engaged in catching and drying the +fish with which the lake abounds. I landed however, but was soon forced +to beat a rapid retreat. Such a mass of all kinds of filth crowded in so +small a space, I have never before witnessed. Man is ever the plague +spot of the world, where he is not, all is peace, and beauty, with his +presence comes contamination and discord. Saw many a whistling seal in +one part of the lake. The water soon became contracted into a narrow +channel, with a low bank on either side, after travelling a few miles +more we reached the broad Jhelum above its entrance into the lake. +Remained for the night at Hajun. + + +JULY 26th, Sunday.--Moved on in the morning to Manusbul, a small lake +connected with the river by a canal. This lake is about three miles long +and one mile wide, it is very deep in the middle, and said by the +natives to be unfathomable. In one of the Hindoo Legends we are told a +story of a holy man who spent all his life endeavouring to make a rope +long enough to reach to the bottom, and failing, at length threw +himself in and was never seen again. My boatman to give me an idea of +its depth, dropped in white pebbles which could be seen for a long time +sinking in the clear green water, until they gradually disappeared from +sight. I longed to take a plunge into the cool fluid, and Ungoo +evidently read my wish in my looks, for he proposed that I should gussul +or bathe. The presence of three women however proved too much for my +modesty, and I refrained, although I have no doubt that had I not done +so their feelings would not have been in the least outraged. Very +handsome water lilies (lotus) on the surface of the lake, the flowers +being of a delicate pink colour with a yellow centre, and as large as +the crown of a man's hat. At the further extremity, a high hill rises +from the edge of the water. A stream is artificially conducted along its +face at a height of about fifty feet, and the surplus water escapes in +several pretty little cascades, by the side of one of them grow some +noble chenars. The bottom of the lake around the edges is very uneven, +and covered with a dense growth of mynophillum spicatum, on which +planorbus and other molluces graze and tiny fry pick their invisible +atoms of food. The elegant shape of this plant with its branching and +finely cut leaves, and the inequalities of the ground remind me of the +pine-clad hills in miniature. A brilliant king-fisher took the gunwale +of the boat as the "base of his operations," and I amused myself all the +morning, by watching him catch fish; when one approached the surface he +descended with a splash which I imagined would have driven every fish +far away, emerging quickly and very seldom without a capture, which he +turned head downwards and swallowed alive and whole, then looked round +with a laughable air of self-satisfaction. When the fish was a size too +large to be trifled with, he first polished it off by rapping its head +on the boards. It is now sunset, and that bird is still feeding, and +probably the day will end without deciding whether his appetite or his +capacity is the larger. A native brought me a dish of excellent +apricots and mulberries--the mulberries especially good, and my garden +is celebrated for the best peaches in Kashmir. + + +JULY 27th.--Up the Jhelum again, past Sumbul with its deodar bridge +(similar to the others described with this exception, that the footway +appears to be built in imitation of the roof of a house sloping on +either side from a high central ridge, not the best form of bridge I +have seen, but variety is charming) to the entrance of the Scind river, +where a chenar stands in the middle of the stream, protected by a square +block of masonry. Tradition says this tree never grows. Near it is a +small island over grown with trees. Here we left the Jhelum and pursued +the course of the Scind which soon contracted into a narrow and rapidly +flowing river, its water derived from the snows, being very cold. It was +slow work rowing against the strong current, but we presently emerged +into a great lake entirely covered with high rushes except where a +winding channel was cut for the boats, and here progression was slower +still as the rope had to be abandoned, and the pole called into +requisition, so that it was nearly dark when we reached Ganderbul. +Passed a number of men wading in the water up to their necks, and +spearing the ground with poles armed with a single barbed spike. +Although this seems an insane way of attempting to catch fish, their +boat was well laden with a small species of trout, and I saw several +drawn from the water impaled and wriggling upon the sharp point. +Sreenuggur seen in the distance at the extremity of a mountainous spur, +with the Fort and Soloman's Throne, standing upon two elevated rocks. +Within a few miles of Ganderbul the lake became clear, and presented a +fine expanse of water, but with so many shallows, that our course was +very tortuous. Having travelled twenty miles, we are now only five miles +from Manusbul. Ganderbul stands at the opening of the Scind valley, but +it was too late to take any observations when I arrived; so I must wait +until my return. + + +JULY 28th.--A march of nine miles up the valley to Kungan, taking with +me as before only four coolie loads of baggage; my boatman accompanies +me. Met Scott, of the 88th, three or four miles from Ganderbul, the +first European I have seen since the 12th. This is a narrow and +beautiful valley, down which the Scind river rushes foaming and roaring. +Its waters are icy cold and its colour also seems to partake of its +snowy origin, for it is white, not only with foam, but the water itself +in small quantities is as though it had come out of a milky jug. Grand +hills stand on either side, and up the valley I occasionally got +glimpses of high and rugged snow peaks. Several natives came to me with +different ailments, I gave them rough directions whereby to benefit, but +what they wanted was a gift of medicine (of which I have none.) They +fancy every Englishman is an adept in the art of healing, and that +English physic especially Tyrnhill's Pills, possesses magical powers. + + +JULY 29th.--To Toomoo, six miles, a shorter march than I intended, for +they told me at Kungan that Toomoo was twelve miles distant. However, +when I arrived, the temptation to stop was too strong to be resisted. In +marching one gets very weary about the sixth or seventh mile, but this +passes off, and you can then go on comfortably for almost any distance, +provided you resist the first feelings of fatigue, and do not give way +to it, as I have done to-day. The mountains are now huge towering +masses, rising thousands of feet above the valley; they have lost all +smoothness of outline, and their upper portions are bare and rough, +cragged, and pine clad. Instead of having merely whitened peaks, snow +fields extend down the sides. The scene is one of wild majestic +grandeur. What tremendous agonies in past ages must have been employed +to produce such vast upheavals. One cannot help contemplating with awe +the possibility of the world again becoming violently rent and shaken +to its foundations by the forces which though now comparatively inert, +still exist beneath us and occasionally give sad proof of their +undiminished power. In the present day the slow but continued action of +this subterranean power is in some parts perceptible (as in South +America) and we have no guarantee that it may not suddenly acquire +increased energy, and overwhelm our fairest lands with a run too +terrible to be imagined. Stinging nettles abound here, of the tall sort +that grow so rankly on old earth heaps and in dry ditches. I placed my +hand among them, delighted to be stung again by English friends; the +sensation is so far preferable to mosquito bites. Besides it took me +back to "childhood's happy hours," when with bramble torn breeches and +urticarious shin, I forced the hedges, apple stealing--I have stolen +apples to-day for a tart which is now baking--robbed the trees of them +for they are no man's property. Just above here on the other side of the +valley is a very perfect crater (of course extinct) for there are now no +volcanoes in the Himalayas. Its lips are rugged and serrated like the +teeth of a saw, and form a very perfect circle I cannot tell the depth +of the basin, but on the further side I can see that the edge rises +perpendicularly to a considerable height, and at the bottom of it I just +got a glimpse of a steeply sloping floor. On its exterior are deep +grooves containing strong blocks, which at this distance appear to show +by contrast of colour their igneous origin, but I cannot speak +positively on this point. My Bheistie to whom I gave three days leave to +visit his family, came in saying he had walked one hundred miles. He +does not look any the worse for it. + + +JULY 30th.--Another short march of five miles to Soorapra, a small +village around which stand several enormous hills, half obscured by +clouds, for it is a thoroughly wet day, drizzling rain having fallen +ever since my arrival. It is very cool and pleasant, but I have got up +too far and am now in the rainy region, so to-morrow I shall retrace my +steps, three or four marches would take me over the Himalayas into +Ladak. This would be an interesting trip, but there still remains much +for me to see in Kashmir, and I have not time to do both. Passed +another, but smaller and less perfect crater. Some natives brought a +young black bear, which they had just caught to show me. It was no +larger than a good-sized dog, but had very long sharp claws; its +expression was anything but ferocious. A dense pine and walnut forest +extends down one of the hills to the verge of the village. I was +strolling in that direction, not a hundred yards from the huts--before +the arrival of my baggage--when two men ran after me and begged me to +come back on account of the number of tigers there. I imagined they +meant leopards, but on making enquiries I find cows are carried away, +which could not be done by leopards. This would be a good ground for the +sportsman, but no Europeans come here as it is off the regular track up +the valley. I crossed the river this morning by a ricketty bridge built +of a couple of firs, on which logs were loosely laid, leaving the main +road which runs along the other or right bank. Just behind my tent a +stream of deliciously cold and transparent water issues from the hill +side; a rough sort of shed is erected over it, and the water is +conducted a short distance in a wooden trough, from the end of which it +falls to the ground. It is the custom in Kashmir to build over the +springs and esteem them holy. No mosquitoes up here, delightful prospect +of a good night's rest. + + +JULY 31st.--Back to Kungan in one march, but did not encamp on the same +ground as before, as I found a better place by the side of the river. I +have been thinking all the morning about my future career, whether I +shall obtain the appointment in the Guards that I have applied for, (my +application has by this time reached England) if not, what will they do +with me when I get home, or shall I remain in the army? These questions +have been running in my head and occasionally a more delicate one +obtruded. Shall I marry, and if so, when and whom, and here, where all +my thoughts are revealed, I must needs confess that now at twenty-nine +years of age, I begin to weary of single blessedness, and long for a +fair, loving, and loveable companion. Now my gentle lady reader, here is +a chance for you, if you are content with honest love without adoration, +faithfulness without romance; for my romantic days have passed. I have +learnt the sober realities of life, and among them the truth of God's +declaration that it is not good for man to be alone. The _Saturday +Review_ in recent articles, "The Girl of the Period, &c.," holds out a +poor prospect for the would be benedict, and I fear there is much truth +in the assertion that the majority of our young women are husband +hunting, that they make matrimony their one great object, and will +condescend to any means whereby to attain the personal independance +given them by that position, that these marriages without love, only +prompted by selfish considerations, are followed by a total neglect of +all wifely duties--nay more, that even maternal care and tenderness have +nearly ceased to exist. It is a sad picture, and sternly drawn. The +well-known power of the paper is put forth in its highest degree, and +withering sarcasm, and bitter contempt accompany its stern reproofs. +Yet there is a final wail of despair at the unlikelihood of any change +for good being effected. This evil like most others is of our own +making. We men no longer marry while young, but when middle-aged or with +grey hairs beginning to show, a man desires a wife, he will most likely +choose one five and twenty years his junior. The girl often marry thus +because she cannot get a husband of her own age, and a very few years +lost will doom her to perpetual spinsterhood. It is necessarily a +marriage without love, a lucky one if there be respect. Girls have +learnt that it is useless to bestow their affections where nature would +have them, and and it is scarcely a matter for surprise that they +should in consequence endeavour to repress them altogether. Moral for my +own use. Marry while I am young, or not at all. + + +AUGUST 1st.--To Wangut nine miles rough and hilly walking. I lost the +path once, and had a long scramble before I regained it. Though not a +pleasant march the scenery is very fine and picturesque. Wangut lies up +a short and contracted valley, an offshoot of the Scind which is a much +larger one, and the mountains around it are very grand especially at the +head of the valley, I put up large coveys of grey partridge on the road. +I have come here for the purpose of visiting some mines two miles +further on, and I intend to halt to-morrow and walk to see them. There +is a great row going on while I write this, the natives appear unwilling +to furnish supplies (milk, eggs, &c.,) and my boatman who has +accompanied me is applying his stick freely by way of persuasion. There +is of course a Babel of tongues and I sit within a few yards, quietly +ignoring the proceeding, though if necessary, I shall get up and add +some lusty whacks as my share of the argument. A mountain torrent--a +tributary of the Scind runs down the valley with the usual noise and +hurly burly. A travelling native carpenter is here, and all the village +are bringing their ploughs to be mended, he is very clever with his +hoe-shaped hatchet fashioning the hard walnut wood so correctly with it, +that the chisel is hardly necessary for the few finishing touches. I +have seen him make some wooden ladles very rapidly, and he has provided +me with a new set of tent pegs and mallet and a wooden roller, by means +of which I hope to avoid the digital process in the manufacture of my +chepatties. + + +AUGUST 2nd, Sunday.--Sitting having my feet washed by a servant +(delightful sensation) after my return from the ruin of Rajdainbul and +Nagbul. I meditate on the mutability of all things human. I have taken a +walk before breakfast this Sabbath morning to witness the overthrow of +former magnificence and the destruction of man's crafty handiwork. These +two temples erected many long years ago in honour of a Hindoo Deity +named Naranay, now stand desolate piles in the dense jungle. Fallen +stones cover the ground and great trees grow from the interstices of +those that still hold together and retain a semblance of their original +shape. Confusion reigns supreme and the place that was once the scene of +mistaken worship, is now only the haunt of the wild beast and deadly +reptile. The thoughts which such a sight suggest, have been the theme of +many a moralist, but the great lesson it teaches cannot lose any of its +importance by repetition. Yet a consideration of the littleness of man +and the utter vanity of his proudest works is, I fear, distasteful to +most of us; we cannot bear to be forced to admit our own insignificance. +We go to church and cry "what is man that Thou art mindful of him," but +the words are but empty sounds. Our preachers may tell us that life is +but a shadow, but they speak to unwilling and heedless ears, and we go +on ignoring the fact, crying peace, and stifling our conscience by a +form of religion without godliness. We are arrogant, high-minded, puffed +up in our own conceit, and though there are many that would wish to be +considered holy, how few there are that are humble men of heart, and +time continues to repeat the old, old story, filling our grave-yards, +destroying our works; creation alone remaining stable, waiting for the +end. These ruins are small in size, and their architecture rude, though +the individual blocks are certainly large and well though not +elaborately carved. But they produce a strange impression of awe by the +dreary solitude and wildness of their position which is perhaps peculiar +to themselves, although they lack both the fairy elegance of Netley +Abbey, and the massive grandeur of a Pevensey Castle. The men who +accompanied me advanced very cautiously through the thick underwood, +beating with their sticks in order to drive away the Iguana Lizards, +which they call the "bis cobra" and hold in deadly fear, believing its +bite to be most surely fatal. This belief is universal among the natives +of India, but there is no proof of its truth, and I need hardly say that +the dental arrangement of Bactrachian reptiles is incompatible with the +possession of poisonous qualities. But though science will not admit it, +it is strange that the idea is so widely spread, especially as the +natives do not fear any other species of lizard, while they believe that +every snake is armed with the fatal fang. + + +AUGUST 3rd.--Heavy rain prevented my departure from Wangut, at the usual +early hour, but about 9 o'clock it cleared up, and I marched on Arric +eight miles distant down a path on the right bank of the river, (I +ascended the valley on the other side.) The rain has made it very +slippery, and it was a fatiguing walk the road not being good, and +occasionally dangerous; one part fairly beat me, I was expected to pass +round a smooth rock by means of several ledges one inch wide and four or +five long, cut on its surface. The precipice below was deep, and when I +had taken one step, and found myself hanging over it; I determined to go +back and try another way. The other way is bad enough, but all I object +to is having my safety depending upon a single foothold. I like to have +at least one chance of recovering myself if I slip. My walnut tree +to-day is covered with mistletoe and my mind is directed to Christmas +time, and all its (to us) sad associations. Three Christmases have I +spent away from England, and a fourth is now approaching, one of them on +the ocean, and two in the tented field, the next will I fancy also find +me under canvass, but I trust on my way homewards. Westward Ho! is my +cry; let the gorgeous East with its money bags, its luxuries, and its +many hours of idleness, remain for those who are content to exchange +home-ties and the enjoyment of life for dreary exile and too often +untimely death, who will sell their minds and bodies for the price of +rupees. + + +AUGUST 4th.--Marched back to Ganderbul, nine miles. Ganderbul is a very +small place, and the only object of interest I noticed, was a very old +bridge built of rough stones, standing now upon dry land, for the Scind +has left its former channel and runs one hundred yards to to the south +of it, three of the arches remain entire and connected, and at least +twelve others are either decayed or destroyed. This bridge is evidently +of very ancient date. On emerging from the Scind valley, I got a better +view of the vale than I have before had. It was a clear but cloudy +morning--one of those grey days when rays abound, and photographic +efforts are most successful--and every distant object was seen with +great distinctness. The snowy Pin Punjaul range, in its southern +boundary looked magnificent, rising abruptly from the level and +beautiful plain. On board the boat again, I continued the journey +towards Srenuggur. We had not been long afloat before a sudden squall +came down from the hills and blew the roof of the boat off; it took a +long time to repair the mischief, but fortunately all the matting was +blown on to the bank, it was eventually replaced and we proceeded +onwards in a tolerably direct line to the capital, ten miles distant. +But near sunset the wind increased again, and compelled us to take +refuge in a sheltered nook within a mile or two of Srenuggur, the fort +standing above us on the summit of a hill--imposing from its apparently +impregnable position--and there we remained all night. + + +AUGUST 5th.--Starting early, I soon arrived at the outskirts of the +town, and the boat entered a canal with houses on both sides. There was +some delay at a lock and great excitement in pushing over the fall +caused by the rash of the water. Passed through the city which is a +large one, and encamped under chenars on the banks of the canal on the +other side. The Baboo-Mohu Chundee, an officer appointed by the +Maharajah to attend to the many and varying wants of European +visitors--called upon me and afterwards sent "russud" or a present from +the Maharajah consisting of tea, sugar, flour, butter, rice, salt, +spice, vegetables, a chicken, and a live sheep. Some cloth merchants +also came and I was led into extravagance in purchasing some of their +goods. In the afternoon I got a small boat, a miniature of the larger +one, propelled by six men with paddles. They took me along very quickly, +and I went down the canal which opens into the Jhelum--the main +thoroughfare of Suenaggur opposite to the palace and the adjoining +temple, whose dome is covered with plates of pure gold. It is a very +strange sight, the broad river covered with boats, and lined by houses +built in the curious Kashmirian style. Seven fine bridges cross it, and +on two of them stand rows of shops like our Old London Bridge. I first +went to the Post-office and got a satisfactory communication from our +Paymaster, and also a letter from Bill, giving me the sad tidings of +poor Tyrwhitt's death, which took place at Murree a fortnight after my +departure. It is a selfish consideration, but I cannot help feeling +grateful that he was prevented by an attack of ague from accompanying +me, as he intended. I then went to Sumnad Sha's, the great shawl +merchant, and turned some of the Paymaster's paper into silver currency. +He showed me his stock, and I wished that I possessed the means of +purchasing his goods. But even here a good shawl costs thirty or forty +pounds, very magnificent they are, but I need not describe that which +every English lady knows and longs for, if she has not it. Hewson, the +Paymaster at Chinsurah, is encamped within one hundred yards of me. +Passing in his boat he recognised me, and we went and had a swim and +talked over old times at the Depot. + + +AUGUST 6th.--Bought some tackle and went fishing, but the hooks were +rotten and the fish broke several. I only succeeded in landing one trout +of nearly two pounds weight. The spoon bait is a favourite one here. +Bought a variety of stones and pebbles. Laduk, Yarkund, Opals, Garnets, +&c., for making brooches, bracelets, and studs. I was a long while +making the selection and a long while bargaining, but I seem to have got +them cheap; at all events for less money than Hewson has paid for his. +This, and fishing, occupied the whole day--which was consequently an +uneventful one. In the evening I borrowed writing materials from Hewson, +and wrote a letter to Bell. + + +AUGUST 7th.--Went out spearing fish, but found it difficult in +consequence of the allowance necessary for the refraction of the water +and the movement of the fish. There is a great temptation to strike in +an apparently direct line with the fish, which I need hardly say, even +if the fish be stationary does not go near it. I only succeeded in +piercing two. But I afterwards went out with a spoon and very soon +landed a couple of trout of two and four pounds weight. I have found out +who was at Baramula ---- travelling quietly like a private gentleman, +still, notwithstanding the paucity of his retinue, the unmistakeable +stamp of nobility about him made it plain that he was more than he +appeared to be, obtaining for him the attention which he had wished to +ignore. As a contrast to him we have here X----, Y----, and Z----, +noticeable like many other Englishmen, when travelling in foreign +countries for the prodigality of their expenditure, one of whom got a +thrashing the other day from ----. Rather a disreputable affair for him, +if all I hear be true. I dare say many a poor native wishes that a small +portion of the money these three men waste was given to them instead. + + +AUGUST 8th.--I have done nothing to-day except go to Sumnad Shas for +some more money, as I intend to leave Sreenugger to-morrow for the +eastern part of Kashmir. There are two reasons for my idleness; in the +first place Hewson gave me some books he had done with, and I got +interested in James' "Heidelberg" and was reading it all this morning; +and secondly, Hewson left this afternoon and sat a long time with me +before his departure. To lengthen my notes for the day I ought to write +a sermon, or secular discourse, (as I have done before) but I don't feel +inclined to do so. This diary only gets my thoughts when they arise +spontaneously and require no further labour than the mere putting of +them into words. To-day my mind is a blank, and I am not going to search +in hidden recesses for thoughts that may possibly be secreted there. +Perhaps after dinner something may occur to me worth writing about. + + +AUGUST 9th, Sunday.--On again by the big boat up the Jhelum stopping at +Pampur for two hours fishing under the bridge (the reputed haunt of +large fish) but without success, so continued the journey gliding slowly +along the beautiful river until dark, when the boat was run ashore and +secured. So it has been an uneventful day with no new scenery to +describe and no musings to record. + + +AUGUST 10th.--Another day passed on the river. From early dawn till dusk +we continued towing against the stream, and then halted for the night at +Kitheryteen (I spell the word from my boatman's pronunciation of it) a +small village on the right bank. + + +AUGUST 11th.--Started again at daybreak but soon stopped at Bigbikara, +where there is another bridge. All these bridges are alike and similar +to the one described at Baramula, but this one is particularly pretty +from the fact of large trees having grown from the lower part of every +pier. These trees green and flourishing are high above the footway, +between which and the water there is a distant vista of fine mountains. +Fished here, but only hooked one, which I judged from its run to be +large, and lost it. Above the bridge the river narrowed to about half +its former width. We are approaching a very grand range of mountains +which seems to be the boundary of the valley. Before mid-day we reached +Kunbul and completed the trip of forty miles by water. At Kunbul is the +first bridge over the Jhelum, the river here diminishes to a breadth of +only thirty or forty yards, and soon breaks up into a number of small +streams which mostly rise from the water, then along the foot of the +hills. + + +AUGUST 12th.--Marched to Buroen, six miles, on arriving found the +camping ground occupied by numerous "Fakirs" who had lately returned +from Ummernath. These men are horrible looking objects, most of them +being painted white and nearly naked. Ummernath is a mountain 1,600 +feet high, and at the top of it is a cave sacred to the Hindoo Deity. +In July pilgrims assemble there for a great religious festival, and +these are some of them on their way back. I intended to visit this cave, +but I have not time now, and I have thought that it may be a trifle too +cold up there. At Burven is a very holy spring. Two tanks are formed +where the water escapes from the ground, and these tanks swarm with tame +fish, some of them of large size. It was a great sight feeding them. +They all rushed to the place struggling and fighting for the food. The +bright green water was black with them, and a space yards wide and long, +and several feet thick, was occupied by a block of fish packed as +closely as if they were pickled herrings. These fish are also very +sacred, and to catch them is prohibited. Soon after leaving Kunbul I +passed through Islamabad, a large town of which I may have more to say +hereafter. There are two other men encamped here with me, but they don't +seem very sociable, and I don't care much for the society of strangers; +we have exchanged "good mornings" and that is all, and now sit staring +at each other at a distance of twenty yards. How different it would have +been if we were Frenchmen instead of cold-blooded Englishmen. After dark +the fakirs had a "tomasha." Singing, bell ringing, tambourine-beating, +and the blowing of discordant horns all at the same time, constituted a +delightful music--to them at least--and was continued for hours, +interrupted by shouting and yelling, and with this din going on I now +hope to sleep. + + +AUGUST 13th.--Marched back to Islamabad, seven miles, by another road, +as I first visited the ruins of Martund, a temple built (so the legend +goes) ages ago by "gin men" or demons of gigantic stature. These are +really grand ruins, whether position, site, or architecture be +considered. They stand on an open plain, on the summit of a ridge, from +which is a fine view of the surrounding mountains, which are much higher +than in the western part of Kashmir. In the centre is a large block, +containing several rooms, the huge stones of which it is built being +elaborately carved. There are many niches containing figures, but the +defacing hand of time has sadly marred them. On two sides of this +building and only a few feet distant from it rise a couple of wings, and +the whole is enclosed by a stone screen, perforated by trefoil arches, +and having on its inner side a row of fluted columns. In the middle of +the south side of the screens is the main entrance, the pillars of which +are very tall. Vigne, classes these ruins among the finest in the world, +and perhaps he is right. At Islamabad there are several bungalows +provided for visitors, and I went into one of them, having first +cleared it of the "fakirs"--who are here too. These bungalows stand by +tanks in which are tame fish, as at Burven. A spring issues from the +hill side, just above them. Two men of the 7th Hussars, Walker and +Verschoyle, occupied another, and I breakfasted with them. Adjoining the +tanks is a small pleasure garden, with some buildings which are +inhabited by the Maharajah when he visits Islamabad. The place reminds +me more of a tea garden in the New Road, than the resort of Royalty. The +water from the tanks escapes under the front bungalow forming a pretty +cascade. Dined and passed the evening with the other fellows. + + +AUGUST 14th.--To Atchebul, six miles. This is a charming spot. It is a +pavilion and garden built--if my memory serves me--by the Emperor Shah +Jehan, for his wife; at its upper end rises a hill covered with small +deodars and other trees, and from the foot of this hill four springs +gush forth from crevices in the rock. The volume of water is very large, +and it is conveyed into three tanks at different levels. These tanks are +connected by broad canals lined with stone, and at the extremity of each +canal is a fine waterfall. There are also two lateral canals which run +through the whole length of the gardens, from the boundary of which the +water escapes in three cascades, the centre one from the tanks being +the largest. In the middle tank are twenty-five fountains, which were +turned on for my benefit; only seventeen of them play, and the best jets +are not more than six feet high. In the centre of this tank stands a +pavilion which I now inhabit. Its walls are of wooden trellis work, and +the ceiling is divided into panels on which are painted in many colours +the everlasting shawl pattern; it looks as though the floor-cloth had +been placed on the ceiling by mistake. Along the foot of the hill is a +ruined terrace built of bricks, with arches and alcoves crumbling to +pieces. There is also an arch over the canal, between the second and +third tanks. The whole garden was originally laid out in several +terraces faced with masonry, and having wide flights of stone steps from +one to the other; but all is now much decayed, and the garden itself is +quite uncultivated, except a small portion, and is but a wilderness of +fruit trees and fine chenars. On the left of it is the old Human or +bath, a series of domed and arched rooms containing baths and marble +seats. The interior is in a fair state of preservation, and the various +pipes which conveyed the water to it still exist. The whole ground is +enclosed by a wall, and if it was properly looked after, might be +converted into a very pleasant retreat. In the afternoon Walker and +Verschoyle, rode over from Islamabad and sat some time with me, after a +few hours five other pipes began to squirt--rendered patulous I suppose +by the pressure of the water--so that three only now remain occluded. I +had a great loss last night; the dogs broke open the basket containing +my provisions, and carried away half a large sized cake, and a hump of +beef that had been cooked but was uncut. + + +AUGUST 15th.--Marched to Nowboog, fifteen miles, this long march was +quite unexpected as Ince in his book puts it down eight miles. It was up +hill nearly all the way--this combined with the sun's heat--for I did +not start so early as I would have done if I had known the distance--and +the vexation of having to go on, long after I considered the march +ought to have been finished, made it very fatiguing. Nowboog is situated +in a small and pretty valley separated by hills from the rest of +Kashmir. I intend to halt here to-morrow, so will reserve further +description until I feel fresh again. It was one or two o'clock before I +arrived, and I have worn a hole in my left heel which will, I fear, +render the next marches painful. Umjoo--the boatman--is now shampooing +my legs and feet. This process consists of violent squeezes and pinches +which make me inclined to cry out, but I am bearing it bravely without +flinching and endeavouring to look happy, and to persuade myself that it +is pleasant--now my toes are being pulled with a strength fit to tear +them off. Oh! ----. There's a cry on paper. He does not hear that, and +it is some sort of relief. + + +AUGUST 16th, Sunday.--The valley of Nowboog is small but very +picturesque. The surrounding hills are comparatively low, and are +covered with pasture on the open places, while the deodar and many other +trees occupy the ravines and gullies. The large amount of grass and the +grouping of the trees give it a park-like appearance, and the gentle +slopes of the verdant mountains remove all wildness from the scene. It +is a pleasant spot to halt at. A little nook which while it charms the +eye, only suggests peaceful laziness. My coolies sit at a short +distance, singing through their noses Kashmirian songs. There is much +more melody in their music than in that of their brethren of Hindoostan. +Indeed some of the tunes admit of being written, and I have copied a few +of the more rythmical, as they sang them. The principal objection to +them is that they are rather too short to bear repetition for half an +hour as is the custom, there is another music going on--a music that +cannot be written and will be difficult to describe--I mean the song of +the "Cicada Stridulantia" in walnut trees above me. This insect--the +balm cricket--is in appearance a burlesque, just such a house fly as you +might imagine would be introduced in a pantomime; and its cry is as +loud and incessant as it is peculiar. To describe it, fancy to begin +with a number of strange chirps, and that every few seconds, one of +those cogged wheels and spring toys that you buy at fairs to delude +people into the belief that their coats are being torn--is passed +rapidly down the back, with occasionally momentary interruption in the +middle of its course, while between each scratch you hear a mew of a +distant cat--another cat purring loudly all the time, and any number of +grasshoppers chirping to conclude with a running down of the most +impetuous and noisy alarum, and then silence--a silence almost painful +by contrast--until it begins again. Such is the song of the Cicada in +the Himalayan forests. I wonder every Sunday if they miss me at +Peshawur; for I was organist to the church before I left, and I doubt if +there is anybody to take my place. I wish I had the instrument here now +to peal forth to the hills and the wondering Kashmirians Handel's +sublime "Hallelujah Chorus" or "The Marvellous Works" of Haydn. What can +be more inspiring than the grand old church music we possess, bequeathed +to us by composers of immortal memory. Though much opposed to the +present Ritualistic tendencies I do delight in a musical service. It +seems to elevate the mind and give a greater depth to our devotion. Go +into any of our cathedrals and hear the solemn tones of the Liturgy +echoing through the vaulted roof, and your heart must needs join in the +supplication, "And when the glorious burst of music calls to praise and +rejoicing, will not your own soul fly heavenward with the sound and find +unaccustomed fervency in its thanksgivings." There is perhaps one thing +necessary, and that is, that you should know the music you hear, +otherwise the first admiration of its beauty may eclipse all other +considerations. But if you have studied it, if it is as familiar to you +as it ought to be, and is intimately connected in your mind with the +words to which it is set, you will understand its spirit, and see that +however beautiful it may be it is only the means whereby higher thoughts +and nobler feelings are sought to be expressed. I bought here a very +fine pair of Antlers of the "Bara sing"--a large deer found on these +hills. + + +AUGUST 17th.--To Kookur Nag, twelve miles. I am now convinced I came the +wrong road from Atchibul to Nowboog, as I had to march back over a great +portion of it this morning; however, with the exception of a mile or +two, it was all down hill, and as I knew when I started that I had +twelve miles to go, I was not tired. Stopped at the village on the way +where there are iron works, and saw them smelting the ore which is +obtained from the neighbouring mountains, this ore is a yellow powder, +and appears to be almost pure oxide. Their method of working is very +rude; a small furnace, such as a blacksmith uses at home, supplied with +a pair of leather bellows constitutes the whole of the foundry, and is +of course, only capable of smelting a very small quantity of ore at a +time. Kookur Nag is the name of some springs about two miles from the +village I have encamped at, and I walked over this afternoon to see +them. It was scarcely worth the trouble. There are a great number of +them close together and they issue from the ground, as usual, at the +foot of a prettily wooded hill. The water is very pure and cold, and of +sufficient quantity to form immediately a large and rapid stream. This +place lies near the mouth of a wide gorge or valley which leads right up +to the snows, and down which there must have been at one time, either a +mighty rush of water or a vast glacier, as the ground is thickly strewn +with huge boulders. The stratification of one mountain against which it +is evident the flood impinged--is very clearly and beautifully shown. + + +AUGUST 18th.--To Vernag, ten miles, crossing a range of hills, the +descent being the steepest I have experienced. From the top of the range +there was a fine view of the two valleys of Kookur Nag and Vernag. They +are very similar and down the middle of each is a layer of loose rounded +stones. The springs of Vernag occupy the same position in the valley as +those of Kookur Nag do in the other, but around them is a good sized +village, and their point of exit has been converted into a large and +very deep octagonal tank, which is perfectly crowded with sacred fish. +Surrounding the tank is a series of arches, and on the side from which +the stream escapes is a bungalow for the use of visitors. Six days ago a +Hindoo was drowned here, and his body has not been recovered--so deep is +the water, it is probable that ere this the fish have removed all but +his bones, one hundred yards below the tank is another spring, which is +the finest I believe in Kashmir. It comes straight up on level ground, +and forms a mound of water eighteen inches high, and more than a foot in +diameter. The morning cloudy and very gloomy on account of the eclipse +of the sun of which I saw nothing. This is my birthday and my thoughts +have been running over my past life and speculating upon the future +before me. "But fear not dear reader!" I will not bore you with all my +musings over those twenty-nine unfruitful, if not absolutely mis-spent +evil years, or show you how my "talent" lies carefully folded up and +hidden away, in order that I may have it to return to its "owner". "Oh! +fool, fool that I am." Knowing better things and with a half a lifetime +gone, "I find myself still plodding along the old road paved with good +intentions." The springs of grace indeed surround me, but I am in the +shallows and the water is muddy. The very "Tree of Life" is by my side, +but it is a dwarfed and stunted shrub, whose shoots wither before they +put forth leaves. When will this change? Will my resolutions ever become +deeds? "Will grace abound: or will faith ever give such impetus to my +"Tree of Life," that it may grow up into heaven?" I put to myself the +question that was asked Ezekiel. "Can these dry bones live," and have no +other answer than his to make. These are some of my birthday thoughts. +Pray, forgive, excuse me if I have wearied you. + + +AUGUST 19th.--Back to Atchibul, twelve miles, the road for the most part +level, but there was one mile of very hard work, over the ridge I +crossed yesterday. I approached Atchibul from the hill I mentioned as +standing at the head of the garden, and from the top of it a very pretty +view of the place is obtained. I found the pavilion unoccupied, and +again took possession of it, set the fountains playing, and imagined +myself the Great Mogul. Just out of Vernag, I caught a small black and +yellow bird, which my boatman calls a "bulbul" (though I think he is +wrong in the name) and says it sings very well. I have had a cage made +for it, and it is now feeding at my side, and is apparently very happy. +I'll try and take it to England. I believe it is only one of the shrike +family, but it is too young to identify at present. However, it is my +fancy to keep it, so why should I not. The old gardener here is very +attentive, constantly bringing me fruit. Shall I do him injustice, by +saying that he probably has expectation of a reward? I think not indeed, +is it not the same expectation or its allied motive, the desire to +escape punishment, which prompts the actions of all of us? We do good, I +fear, more for the sake of the promised recompense, than for any love +of the thing itself. Light rain has fallen all day. + + +AUGUST 20th.--I halt at Atchibul. I have now completed my wanderings in +Kashmir, and have seen all I intended except one portion, which I shall +visit on my road home. My next move will be to ----, but as I do not +care to spend more than seven or eight days there, I am in no hurry to +get back. My bird died in the night, and by its death has put an end to +a rather violent controversy between my Bheistie and boatman. The +boatman stoutly maintained his opinion of its value and the Bheistie +with a more correct appreciation, and while explaining to me that it +was a jungle bird and would never sing, appeared to look upon my conduct +with a mixture of compassion and disgust, and then they quarrelled over +it. Was my fancy a foolish one? Some men will spend years in the pursuit +and classification of butterflies, while others go into ecstasy over a +farthing of the reign of Queen Anne. My common jungle bird was a pretty +one, and if I had got it home and put it in a gilt cage, it would surely +have possessed some value for its antecedents, even if it had proved as +mute as a fish, or as discordant as a Hindoo festival. + + +AUGUST 21st.--Marched back to Kunbul, seven miles, and took up my +quarters again on board the boat, fifteen or twenty other boats are +here, a good many visitors having recently arrived in this part of +Kashmir. I remained at Kunbul all day waiting for the completion of a +pair of chuplus which I ordered of a shoemaker ten days ago. I have +occupied the time by reading Marryat's "Newton Forster" (one of Hewson's +gifts) and I find that when I read I can't write, so that must be my +excuse for the shortness of my notes. My head is full of ships, sea +fights, and love making to the exclusion of everything else. I heard +you--you said it was a good job, as it prevented me writing more +nonsense. + + +AUGUST 22nd.--Slowly drifting all day down the stream towards +Sreenuggur. Past Bijbehara with its fine bridge, stopping there a short +time to procure milk and eggs for breakfast. Past Awuntipoor--the former +capital--but now only a very small village, where stands on the rivers +bank the ruins of two ancient Hindoo temples, square blocks, built +indeed of enormous stones, but without sufficient architectural +embellishment to require a closer inspection than I obtained from the +boat. Another of those charming lazy days on the water, nothing to think +about, but the time for meals, nothing to do, but to eat them when +prepared. The eastern part of Kashmir is covered with high isolated +mounds called Kuraywahs, composed of Alluvium, presenting perfectly +flat summits and precipitous sides. The top of these was doubtless the +original bed of the lake at the time when the whole valley was +submerged, and the present channels between them (though now dry land) +were cut by the rush of the water, when the Jhelum burst through the +opening at Baramula and drained the valley. This rush then is shown to +have been impetuous (and the high banks of the river also bear evidence +to it) but it seems to me that the mere breaking through of the stream +sixty or seventy miles away is not enough to account for it. No doubt +that occurrence was attended, I may say produced by violent +subterranean phenomena; and I imagine that this portion of the +vale--which is much higher than the western half--then underwent a +sudden upheaval, the result of which if only a few feet would be to +throw its waters with terrific force into the lower portion and afford +an easy explanation of the formation of both the Kuraqwahs and the +Jhelum. I noticed in my course up the Jhelum, that it appeared to have +originally consisted of a chain of small lakes, this would be the the +natural effect of such a cause as I have supposed. The bulk of water, at +first, would only have been sufficient to produce a few of them, perhaps +only the large one between Gingle and Baramula. But as its quantity and +measure continually increased by the flow from the higher level so +would lake after lake have been formed among the crowded hills until the +plains were reached. Then the drainage of these small lakes would follow +as a matter of course, and the channel of the river be reduced to a size +proportionate to its constant supply. Dear reader, you are very +difficult to please. My descriptions you call slow, my imaginings +frivolous, science dry. Jokes are feeble and personalities tedious +morality is stale, religion is cant. What, how can I write? You have had +a taste of all and if you are not content the fault is--well, let me be +on the safe side--either yours or mine. + + +AUGUST 23rd, Sunday.--We continued to progress last night by moonlight +long after the sun had set, and started again very early this morning, +so that the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Soloman's Throne) and Fort are now +visible, and I expect to reach Sreenuggur before noon. It is faster work +floating down the current than towing against it. At Sreenuggur I found +several letters waiting for me, and amongst them a large "Official," +which I tore open with eager haste; thinking it might be a reply to my +application to be sent home. It was ----. Well, you will never guess--an +urgent enquiry as to what language I could speak and write fluently +beside English. I have answered this question some half dozen times +since I have been in the service, but they never get tired of asking it. +The date of my arrival in India is another favourite and constantly +recurring enquiry, and this might lead me to give you a dissertation +upon the theory and practice of Red-tapeism, with a special +consideration of the amount of stationery thereby wasted, and its +probable cost to the Government. It would perhaps, be very interesting +to you, but to any one who is at all connected with it, the subject is +only one of weariness and disgust--weariness at the unproductive labour +entailed--disgust at the utter folly of the proceedings. So I pass it +by, leaving some one who is willing to sacrifice his feelings, or more +probably some one who knows nothing whatever about it to furnish the +much needed expose; it is customary to cry it down but it is an +acknowledged evil, the custom has never been fully and fairly explained +to outsiders or it must have given way before the burst of public +indignation which such an explanation would have created. I have again +encamped in the Chinar Bugh, but not quite in the old position as a +better place was unoccupied. Indeed I had my pick of the whole, for +there is now nobody here but myself. I received news (in my letters) +that a field force had left Pindee to operate against some of the hill +tribes between Peshawur and Abbottabad--ruffians who are always giving +trouble, and who occasioned the inglorious Umbeylla campaign a few +years ago. I informed my "boy" that there was going to be some hard +fighting, and his reply was "With our troops, Sir?" Our troops! good +heavens! a black man speaking to me of "our troops." It is customary I +know to call these Asiatics our fellow subjects, but I never before had +the fact so forcibly brought before me. + + +AUGUST 24th.--I got up early this morning and have spent half the day on +the "Dul" or "City Lake"--a large sheet of water which lies at the foot +of the hill behind Sreenuggur. Besides the excessive beauty of the lake +itself there are many objects of interest to be seen on its banks. I +visited in succession the Mussul Bagh, Rupa Lank or Silver Isle, +Shaliman Bagh, Suetoo Causeway, Nishat Bagh, Souee Lank or Golden Isle, +and floating gardens. A word or two of description for each. The Mussul +Bagh is a large grove of fine chenars planted in lines so as to form +avenues at right angles to each other. There must be several hundred of +these noble trees upon the ground, I do not mean fallen but erect and +vigorous. The Shaliman Bagh is an extensive and well cultivated pleasure +garden with pavilions, tanks, canals and fountains, in true oriental +style. The upper pavilion is especially worthy of notice having a +verandah built of magnificent black marble veined with quartz +containing gold. It is surrounded by a large tank possessing one hundred +and fifty-nine fountains, and its exterior is grandly if not +artistically painted. The Nishat Bagh is smaller but scarcely less +attractive. It is arranged in a series of fifteen terraces, from which a +splendid view is obtained of the lake and adjacent country. Down its +centre runs a canal, expanding at intervals into tanks and having a +waterfall for each terrace, with a single straight row of fountains +numbering more than one hundred and sixty. Grand hills rise immediately +above it. It contains pavilions of fruit trees, and as a flower garden, +is superior to the Shaliman Bagh. The Suetoo Causeway, is a series of +old bridges and embankments which formerly crossed the lake, and was two +or three miles long, but only portions of it now remain. The two islands +are small and covered with trees, having no interest of themselves, but +adding greatly to the appearance of the lake. They are I believe +artificially constructed. The celebrated floating gardens are very +curious; they were formed by dividing the stalks of the water weeds near +their roots, and sprinkling the surface of them with earth, which +sinking a little way was entangled in the fibres and retained; Fresh +soil was then added, until the whole was consolidated, and capable of +bearing a considerable weight. The ground is now about nine inches +thick, floating upon the surface of the water, and the stalks of the +weeds below it having disappeared. It is exceedingly porous and is used +for the cultivation of water melons, when walking upon it a peculiar +elasticity is perceived, accompanied with a tremulous or jelly like +motion. It is divided into long stripes pierced by a stake at each end, +which secures them in their position and allows of their rising or +falling with the height of the water. An unlucky day for Silly. In the +first place he was _sea-sick_. The use of the broad paddle in a small +boat caused a good deal of shaking, and every stroke is attended with a +sharp jerk forwards--secondly, he mistook a collection of weeds for dry +land and jumped out into the water. This puzzled him immensely, and +after he was recovered he sat for a long time gazing with a bewildered +air upon the surface of the lake. Paid a visit in the afternoon to +Sumnud Shah for the purpose of replenishing my exchequer, but found his +shop better calculated to exhaust it. I'll not go there again. + + +AUGUST 25th.--Lying down inside my tent I just now heard two crows +chuckling and laughing in their way and saying to one another "here's a +joke" or caws to that effect. You need not laugh at this statement or +think that my mind has suddenly become deranged, I merely state a fact. +The language of animals--dumb creatures as fools call them--is far more +expressive than you imagine, and if you had spent the same time and the +same attention that I have in listening to birds notes, you would be +able to understand much of their meaning. Here a conversation carried on +in a foreign tongue, one to which you a perfect stranger, will you be +able to distinguish words? No! you will only hear a confusion of sounds +possessing apparently but little variety. But as you become accustomed +to it the words and syllables will start out into clear relief; so with +birds songs--at first they will appear to you to be always the same, but +they have really different tones and meanings, which you may learn to +appreciate by studying them in connection with their acts. However I +heard the crows say "here's a joke" and guessing I was to be the victim +of it, I immediately jumped up and rushed out. They flew away loudly +exulting and I found my match box,--which I had left on the table broken +to pieces and the matches carefully distributed so as to cover as large +a space of ground as possible; there is a crow's joke for you--there is +not much in it as a joke,--but I introduce it principally to show that +birds talk and that I (clever I) can understand them. I wrote the +foregoing to eke out my notes for the day, not having anything +particular to record. When the Baboo called upon me with the startling +intelligence, all officers from the Peshawur division ordered +immediately to rejoin their respective regiments; this has taken away +the greater number of the visitors and very few are now left in Kashmir. +Why don't I pack up and start? Well, I forgot to mention a short +sentence in the order "except those on medical certificate" which saves +me the trouble and annoyance of hurrying back before the expiration of +my leave. It is on account, I suppose, of the little war we have entered +on with those hill tribes, and I may be missing honour and glory, wounds +and death, neither of which I care to earn from barbarians on the black +mountains. I am sorry for the affair as I fear that from the +inaccessibility of the country the best result will barely escape +disaster. This is a strange day. You see me, one moment trifling with my +thoughts for the sake of occupation and then having matters and subjects +for the deepest consideration suddenly thrust upon me. Ought I to +rejoin? I am indeed protected from the necessity of doing so, but my +health is now fully established and such being the case, is it my duty +to waive my right and return to my regiment. I think not, for the reason +it is not likely that they will weaken the garrison at Peshawur by +sending any of its troops into the field. Its strength is maintained for +the purpose of defence against the Cabulese and other powerful Pathan +tribes immediately surrounding it, who are deadly enemies, and would be +eager to avail themselves of any opportunity for offence. Therefore I +imagine that my regiment will remain in quarter, and do just as well +without me as with me; and therefore have I determined to adhere to my +original plans. + + +AUGUST 26th.--There was a great fire in the town last night; three +hundred houses have been destroyed. I went early to the scene of the +disaster, which is on the left bank of the river adjoining the first +bridge. The embers were still smouldering, and among the ruins the heat +was intense, owing to the houses having been built almost entirely of +wood, little but ashes and charred logs remained of them. Here and there +a few hot bricks retained the semblance of a wall, but the destruction +has been as complete as it is excessive. The bridge has also suffered, +the bank pier having been attacked by the flames, and half the railing +on either side of the foot-way has been torn off and precipitated into +the water. The latter injury was caused I imagine, by the rush of the +crowd over it at the time of the fire. No lives lost I believe. + + +AUGUST 27th.--At six o'clock this morning a Jemindar or military +officer made his appearance, sent by the Baboo, for the purpose of +conducting me over the fort. A row of a mile down the river, and half a +mile walk through the narrow rough crowded and stinking streets of the +town brought us to the outworks, at the foot of the hill on which it is +built. This hill is very steep and several hundred feet high, (I do not +know the exact height, but I think it is between six and seven hundred +feet) and the climb up it was fatiguing. From the top there is an +extensive view, but the morning was misty and the greater part of the +valley indiscernible. In front lies the town, intersected by the Jhelum; +a great desert of mud-covered roofs presenting anything but the green +carpet-like appearance described in books. On the left long lines of +poplars, enclosing the Moonshi Bagh and the various encamping grounds, +with the Tukh-t-i-Suliman rising high above them. Behind, the Dul, +spread out like a sheet of silver with the back ground of mountains, and +many canals radiating and glistening in the sun-light. Of the fort I +have but little to say. From below, its position renders it imposing, +but a nearer inspection dispels the illusion. Inside it there is a +Hindoo temple, two or three tanks filled with green, slimy water, and +some wretched hovels for the occupation of the garrison. The ramparts +though high are weak and a few shells dropped within them would blow +the whole place to pieces. The ordnance consists of four ancient brass +guns; two of them about 9-pounders and the others 32-pounders, but I did +not see a spot from which either of them could be safely fired; and even +if there were bastions strong enough, I doubt if cannon could be +depressed sufficiently to sweep the precipitous sides of the hill. On my +way back to the boat, I turned aside to visit the Jumma Musjid, or chief +Mosque, a large quadrangular wooden building, the roof of which is +supported by deodar columns of great height, each pillar being cut out +of a single tree, but I cannot waste more time over it, the name recalls +to my memory the magnificent Jumma Musjid of Delhi--but comparisons are +odious. When parting with my attendant I felt uncertain whether or no he +would be offended by the offer of a remuneration for his trouble, so I +left him to ask for it, as natives usually do not scruple to request +"bucksheesh" for the most trifling service, but either his orders or his +dignity prevented him from soliciting it, and he went away unrewarded +and I doubt not dissatisfied. After noon I went and selected a lot of +papier mache articles, and gave monograms to be painted upon them. Their +papier mache is fairly made, elaborately painted and moderate in price. +At this shop they prepared some ladak tea for me, a most delicious +beverage possessing a delicate flavour such as I have never before +tasted in any tea. It was sweetened with a sort of sweet-meat in lieu of +plain sugar. + + +AUGUST 28th.--A blank day, I have done nothing but fish and only caught +one of moderate size. Early in the morning there was a storm attended +with high wind and heavy rain; it cleared up before sun-rise, but its +effect has been to make the day very pleasantly cool. + + +AUGUST 29th.--Went up to the Tukh-t-i-Suliman (Solomon's Throne) before +breakfast. It stands one thousand one hundred feet above the town, and +the ascent is effected by means of unhewn stones arranged in the form +of a rough flight of steps built by the Gins, I should fancy for their +own private use and without any consideration for the puny race of +mankind that was destined to follow them. I am a tall man and gifted +with a considerable length of _understanding_ but the strides I was +obliged to take--sometimes almost bounds--if calculated to improve my +muscles, were certainly very trying to my wind. However all things have +an end, and so had that long flight of steps, and at the summit I had +leisure to recover my breath and enjoy the magnificent view. I took care +to have a clear day for this excursion, and the whole valley was seen +stretched out like a map, and spreading far away to the feet of its +stupendous mountain boundaries. The lakes like huge mirrors reflecting a +dazzling radiance. The Jhelum twisting like a "gilded snake" and forming +at the foot of the hill the original of the well-known shawl pattern; +miles upon miles of bright and verdant fields, divided and marked out by +the banks and hedges; clumps and groves of lofty trees diminished by +distance to the appearance of mere dark green bushy excrescences; the +poplar avenue looking like two long and paralleled lines drawn upon the +ground; the fort and hill but a pigmy now; the city of sombre colour, +with its houses closely huddled together and presenting an expanse of +mud--unworthy stone for such a setting! The high and rugged mountains +on every side piercing the clouds, out of which the everlasting snow and +ice rock regions untrod by mortal foot gleam and glisten coldly in the +scene below; these are the constituent parts of a view which taken +altogether ranks among the finest (if indeed it be not itself the +finest) in the world. But I have no description for it as a whole, words +would fail me if I attempted to reproduce it on paper, so you must take +the items and arrange them to your own satisfaction, and wish you had +the opportunity of seeing the glorious original. I am no antiquarian, +but I believe the building itself possesses great interest for those who +indulge in that musty study, on account of its vast antiquity and +uncertain history. To me it is only a Hindoo temple of quaint +architecture and unwholesome smell. Inside it is a small marble idol in +the form of a pillar with a snake carved round it. + + +AUGUST 30th, Sunday.--The beginning of a fresh week which will at its +conclusion find me on my way homewards, my back turned on the lovely +valley and all the beauties that I have witnessed existing only in my +memory like a pleasant dream that has passed. So wags the world, joys +giving place to sorrows, and sorrows in their turn effaced by fresh +happiness or oblivion. For a little while each one of us plays his ever +varying part in the great drama of life. Now bewailing with bursting +heart, and scalding tears the light affliction which is but for a +moment; now with ringing laugh and reckless gaiety he enjoys the +present, forgetful alike of past and future, now with stormy passions +raging he "like an angry ape, plays such fantastic tricks before high +heaven, as make the angels weep;" and then is his short act over, then +the curtain falls and then will he be called before it to receive +approbation? Who can tell, I judge not one individually; but I may +generalize and say, that while as a rule we give a terrible earnestness +to the performance of the _business_ connected with our parts, we too +often fail to appreciate and interpret the _spirit_ of the character, +without which it is of course but a sorry exhibition and one that will +be deservedly damned. As I sit under the shade of the chenars writing, a +young native swell is passing along the opposite bank of the canal--a +mere boy, with gold turban, lofty plume and embroidered clothing, riding +a horse led by two grooms, followed by attendants also mounted, but +sitting two on a horse and preceded by a band consisting only of some +six drummers. He is playing his part doubtless very much to his own +satisfaction, and little thinking that there is one "taking notes" and +laughing at his proceedings. But so it is, we can always see, and +ridicule the faults and foibles of others, would to God we could as +easily perceive and weep over those of our own. The Baboo Mohes Chund +called to pay his farewell visit to me and shortly afterwards sent a +second edition of "russud" including as before--a live sheep. + + +AUGUST 31st.--My last day in Sreenuggur--and now let me make a few +observations on a topic which I dare say you are surprised has not been +mentioned before, I mean the women; the far-famed beauties of Kashmir. I +am not ungallant, while I have been silent, I have been observing, and +have delayed my remarks in order that they might have the benefit of the +largest experience I could command. I did this the more willingly, +because to tell the truth, I was disappointed at first, and I hoped that +by waiting I might eventually have reason to change my unfavourable +opinion. This however has not been the case, and while I intend to do +full justice to their charms I must commence by saying that they have +been grossly exaggerated. I do not of course allude to the higher +classes. They are invisible; they _may_ be very beautiful, but are never +seen by Europeans. But the middle and lower classes go about with the +face uncovered, exposing themselves to the criticism of some and the +admiration of others, and it is of them I speak. The slim elegant figure +of the Hindoo is seldom seen; they are large, plump, round women. Their +complexion has been absurdly compared to that of our brunettes (may they +feel complimented thereby) but veracity compels me to say that they are +_very dark_. Fair indeed by comparison with the Hindoos, but actually +and unmistakeably copper-coloured not to say _black_. In their features +we find a great improvement; a well-shaped nose replaces the expanded +nostrils, compressed lips, the thick pouting ones, their teeth are of +marvellous whiteness and regularity as are those of all Asiatics. Their +cheeks may sometimes have a tinge of pink, but this is usually veiled by +the darker tint of the "rete mucosum." Their eyes--oh! their eyes!--here +lies their beauty, almond-shaped eyes, that when not in anger cannot +help throwing the sweetest and most captivating glances. None of your +trained disciplined eyes, taught to express feelings that do not exist; +but still eyes that equally deceive, eyes that nature in some strange +freak determined should ever look love. Unconsciously and +unintentionally they dart upon you the brightest, the most tender, nay, +even passionate glances. When looking at a young face, you only see the +eyes; eyes so voluptuous, so maddening, that you exclaim "good heavens +what a beautiful creature," and unless you are a calm and cool analyst +like myself, you may not discover that there is really no beauty save in +them. They dress their hair in a peculiar manner. It is plaited in a +number of small plaits joining two larger ones which fall over the +shoulders and unite in the middle of the back to form a long tail +terminating with a tassel. The larger plaits are mixed with wool, this +adds to their bulk, and increase the length of the tail, which often +extends below the knees. They wear a single loose gown, reaching in +ample folds nearly to the feet. On the head a small red skull cap, over +which is thrown the white (too often dirty) "chudder"--a light cloth +which hangs down the back and is used for veiling the face. The +boatwomen are renowned for their beauty. I have seen but little of it. +The Punditanees are said to be more beautiful than the boatwomen. I +consider them even less so. But among the Nautch girls I have seen both +grace and beauty, and as a class, I certainly think far better looking +than the others. Respect to age is a noble feeling--though one that is +unfortunately at a low ebb now-a-days--but truth, compels me and I must +pronounce all the elderly women to be positively ugly, and a woman is +elderly in Kashmir when in England she still might be called young. The +men are a fine race, regular features, broad shouldered and muscular, +wearing their bushy black beards on their faces, but shaving the head, +which is covered with a small coloured skull cap and white turban. Two +other men have pitched their tents under this tope. To-morrow I shall +leave them in undisturbed possession of the whole. They are friends and +have been travelling in Kashmir. I have had a conversation with one of +them, but I don't like strangers and am glad they did not come before. + + +SEPTEMBER 1st.--Up and away, taking a last look at the town and bridges, +a last look at the Tukh-t-i-Suliman while floating down the river. I am +on my way to Baramula, having given up my intended visit to Gulmurg, so +that I may get a week at Murree, and see more of the place than I did +when I was last there. Adieu to Sreenuggur, adieu to the Scind, adieu +to Manusbul; gently onwards we go towards lake Wulloor. It is a bright +clear day, one of the brightest among the many bright ones, and the +valley seems smiling upon me an affectionate farewell in order that the +last recollections and parting scene may be a joyful memory to me in +days and years to come. I thank thee for it. When I am gone let +rain-tears fall and clouds of care bewail my absence, but gladden my +departing moments with the full radiance of thy glorious countenance. +Oh! Kashmir, loveliest spot on earth, I owe thee a deep debt of +gratitude, I came to thee weak in body; thou hast restored my strength, +I was poor in thought; thou hast filled my heart with good things, I +was proud in conceit; thou hast shown me nature's grandeur and my own +littleness. With a voiceless tongue thou hast spoken and my spirit has +heard the unuttered words. Tales of the creation when the morning stars +sang together and all the sons of God shouted for joy; tales of man and +his works perished in the endless roll of ages; tales of the future when +heaven and earth shall have passed away amid the dread terror of the +great tribulation. Aye, and one more tale, a tale of love, mercy, and +forgiveness; the tale of an Asiatic--who, not far from here, was once +"bruised for our transgressions," who took upon Himself the iniquities +of us all and made up for us a mighty deliverance, and to this tale +there is a refrain that echoes from hill to hill, and spreads along the +plain in endless repetition, "believe only and thou shalt be saved," but +though the command is so simple, its eager passionate tone as it swells +around me, and an earnest mournful cadence as it dies away in the +distance, seems to imply that it is neither easily nor commonly obeyed. + + +SEPTEMBER 2nd.--Awoke early and found myself in the broad waters of the +lake, the full moon shining brightly in the west, and yet unpaled by the +rosy dawn that was rapidly illuminating the east. Stopped at Sopoor for +breakfast, and Macnamara, surgeon of the 60th Rifles, and his wife, +arrived soon after me, also bound for Murree. Macnamara was at Peshawur +with me, and was one of the committee that sent me away. We passed the +morning in conversation, and at mid-day continued our journey to +Baramula. He told me that he had heard that I was going home this winter +with troops; but I do not know whether his information is reliable. I +trust it may prove to be so, but it has not raised my hopes to a +certainty. It is a good rule never to reckon confidently upon the +achievement of our desires. It never assists to realise them and only +renders the disappointment more bitter in case of failure. I have a +great hope, but I do not forget that obstacles may arise, that while +man proposes God disposes, and often find myself forming plans for next +year under the supposition that I shall still remain in India. I have +written the dedication of this volume and have written it as if I had +already returned to England, and this may appear to indicate that I rely +strongly upon the fulfilment of my expectation. But not so, I can alter +or destroy it if need be, and shall do so with regret indeed, but +without despair. About halfway between Sopoor and Baramula the wind +increased to a gale and obliged me to take refuge under the bank. I +dined with Macnamara and his wife at 8 o'clock, the weather moderated +and we proceeded to Baramula. + + +SEPTEMBER 3rd.--At sunrise I obtained coolies, and turned my back on +the happy valley for ever. It was a beautiful morning with a golden haze +rising from the ground, the mountains appearing blue and purple against +the eastern halo; but before I had gone a mile a dark cloud gathered +around me, and wept passionate rain. I marched to Naoshera, ten miles, +followed in an hour by Dr. and Mrs. Macnamara who will be my fellow +travellers as far as Murree. The Rohale ferry is re-opened and I am +returning by the direct road on the left bank of the Jhelum. There is a +barahduree at every stage, so I sold my tent at Sreenuggur to render my +baggage lighter. I am travelling with only six coolies. The river is +much lower and less rapid than when I came up it, the excess of water +caused by the melting of the snow during the summer having been carried +off. It is still however a noisy turbulent torrent. + + +SEPTEMBER 4th.--A long march of fourteen miles to Ooree. The road is +becoming very hilly, but is not as yet nearly so rough and difficult as +on the other side. Passed two ruins; one of then very similar to those +at Wangut, but much smaller. + + +SEPTEMBER 5th.--To Chukoti, sixteen miles, a severe and fatiguing march, +the hills being intersected by ravines--the beds of streams--to all of +which there was a steep descent and corresponding ascent. This is the +worst march on the Murree road, but though bad, it is much better than +five or six that I described on my journey from Abbottabad. These long +marches are very detrimental to my diary, for at the conclusion I have +no energy either to think or write. I am not using my dandy now, and +have to walk every inch of the way. + + +SEPTEMBER 6th.--Fifteen weary miles to Huttian, low down on a level with +the river where I found a number of tents belonging to the Lord Bishop +of Calcutta and his Chaplain, who are here with a large retinue of +servants, and are on their way into Kashmir. They had very +considerately and unlike a certain ---- ---- left the bungalow empty for +the use of other travellers. Macnamara sprained his knee yesterday, and +used my dandy to day. One of my coolies stumbled on the road and the +Kitta he was carrying--containing my stores and cooking utensils, went +over the Rhudd and burst open in the fall. Macnamara was behind +fortunately (for me) and superintended the collection of the articles so +that my only loss of any moment is that of my big cooking pot, which +from its weight probably rolled all the way down to the Jhelum--the long +grass growing on the hill, stopped the other things. The six remaining +marches are I am glad to say short. The three last have been a severe +trial on account of the numerous and rough ups and downs, and for the +last mile or two this morning, the soles of my feet were in great pain; +Silly too was very exhausted even to the dropping of his tail. + + +SEPTEMBER 7th.--Got up at daybreak and marched on Chikar, distance ten +miles. For three miles the road continued along the valley of the +Jhelum, and then turned to the south, and crossed several ranges of +hills, each range rising higher than the one before, very hard work it +was, the ascents being so steep and long--I can't keep my breath going +up hill; it is far more fatiguing than any roughness of road. Chikar is +a good sized village with a fort and is situated on the summit of a +mountain at least two thousand feet above the Jhelum. There is a fine +view of the surrounding hills from the Barahduree. Shortly after our +arrival it began to rain, and has turned out a wet day. I had half my +crockery broken by the coolie dropping the basket instead of putting it +carefully down at the conclusion of the march. + + +SEPTEMBER 8th.--To Meira, seven and a half miles, a toilsome hill for +half the distance, and then a descent the rest of the way. Scenery very +pretty, the valleys being much larger and the mountains higher. The +Murree ridge is now visible. From this bungalow we can see the next +halting place, half way up a hill on the opposite side of an extensive +valley deeply cut by ravines. The view is really very grand--much the +finest on this road--in some parts it slightly resembles the scenery +around Darjeeling with, of course, pine trees taking the place of +magnolias and rhododendrons. The mere mention of those trees--magnolias +and rhododendrons I mean--will only give you a misconception of the +Sikin forests, because your ideas will be turned to the stunted shrubs +of our northern latitudes. The magnolias and rhododendrons I speak of, +are huge towering trees, taller than the largest oaks. How well I +remember the magnificent spectacle they presented when in blossom! I +have never seen mountains or forests that could compare in grandeur with +those of the eastern Himalayas. Can you imagine Kishun-gunga twenty-nine +thousand feet high? No! it is impossible; it is a sight that produces +the most intense awe, and when I first looked upon it I did not know how +to contain my feelings; but enough, or I shall be giving you a chapter +quite irrevelant to my journey from Kashmir. By the side of this +bungalow stands a large cypress; a very beautiful and by no means a +common tree. There is something peculiarly rich in its dark green +foliage, and withal, melancholy look, but that is doubtless owing to +its tomb--stone associations. Ince in his "Guide," calls it a +_sycamore_. He could hardly have named a tree more widely different. + + +SEPTEMBER 9th.--To Dunee, eight and a half miles; first half, down hill, +second up: both very steep and rough. A bad fatiguing march. The +barahduree here has been lately white-washed and looks quite refreshing +after the other dirty ones; but the rooms are ridiculously small. This +is the last halt in Kashmirian territory; to-morrow we shall be in a dak +bungalow. I had a lesson to-day. The same lesson that the spider taught +Bruce--never to cease striving to obtain any desired object; and not +despair even if frequent failures attend the attempt. Ever since I left +Baramula I have been endeavouring to catch another of the green +butterflies, as beetles had eaten my first specimen. But they are very +alert on the wing, and I could not get near one. The last two or three +marches I had not seen any, having got out of their locality, but to-day +a solitary one flew by me and I knocked it down, caught it, and secured +it in my toper. Success will eventually crown all constant endeavours, +it is a slight peg on which to hang a moral, but let it pass. Life is +made up of trifles, and I desire my book to represent my life. A number +of people--ladies, men, and children--came into the bungalow at 2 +o'clock, having made a double march and overtaken us; so we are very +closely packed, even the verandah being occupied. + + +SEPTEMBER 10th.--To Kohala, six miles, nearly all the way down a +terribly steep and rough hill to the banks of the Jhelum--which river +has taken a great bend among the mountains and now runs at right angles +to its former course. A ferry boat crosses the torrent at this spot and +the passage during the summer is attended with considerable danger, as +the stream runs at the rate of twenty miles an hour. I got my baggage in +it and landed upon British soil at the other side. The Dak bungalow is +just above, but we were very much crowded as all the other people +remained for the night. After dinner a great thunderstorm took place +accompanied with very heavy rain. + + +SEPTEMBER 11th.--Marched to Dargwal, twelve miles, up hill all the way, +but the road is broad and smooth, so that the march was quickly and +easily accomplished. M---- and his wife did not come in till the middle +of the day as they could not get coolies in time to start early. There +is a good furnished bungalow here, our other fellow travellers have gone +on to Murree, so we have the house to ourselves. + + +SEPTEMBER 12th.--To Murree, ten miles, road the same as yesterday. Went +to Woodcot, and found Spurgeon, Gordon, and Egerton, of the 36th; Hensma +and Beadnell, 77th; and Dalrymple, 88th. Put up with them sharing +Spurgeon's room. Spent a pleasant time at Murree, doing very little--a +long rest of ten days after my labours--and on the 22nd, at 1 o'clock, I +took my seat in the mail cart with Redan Massy for my companion, and +started on my journey to Peshawur. Arrived at Rawul Birder at 6 in the +evening, and went on at once by the Government van. Had no time for +food. Got to Peshawur at 7 o'clock next morning, and thus ended my three +months sick leave. And now I go back to the din and bustle of life, the +empty conventionalities of society, the noise and glitter of mess; to +the re-pursuit of my profession, and to learn again by the bedside of +many a dying man how weak and powerless is that profession to combat the +ills that flesh is heir to. I sometimes wish I could exchange my present +calling. Terrible thoughts often assail me, after the death of any of my +patients. Questions as to whether I am at all responsible for the fatal +issue. Whether by lack of knowledge that I should possess or by careless +observation during the progress of the disease, I have allowed a man to +die who might have been saved, or pushed into the grave one who was only +trembling with uncertainty upon its brink. Yet as a set off against +these feelings there is the satisfaction experienced when sufferings are +relieved or health restored by the interposition of my aid. The +profession of medicine is potent for good and evil. For good in the +hands of him who makes it his lifelong study; for evil in his hands who +adopts it merely as a respectable means of obtaining his livelihood. It +is noble in the one case; detestable in the other. You do not know how +detestable. If the vail could be raised, if you could see the vast +amount of misery and suffering caused, the many hearts broken that God +would not have made sad; and the many unprepared souls hurried out of +this life into eternity by the ignorance of men who are "licensed to +kill," you would cry out against the whole body of the profession with a +bitter hatred, that even the army of noble and devoted minds amongst us +would be unable to appease. Am I too severe? I fear not. There are +charlatans and know nothings in every pursuit, but in mine they effect +so seriously the temporal and may be eternal welfare of mankind that +their existence is awful to contemplate. Shall I, in conclusion, write +an apology for having nothing better than the foregoing to offer for +your perusal "devil a bit." If I have written folly and you have read it +all, why, you are the greater simpleton. To me it was an occupation when +I had nothing better to do, on your part it was a foolish waste of +time, which might have been more profitably employed. If I have written +folly and you have _not_ read it, what necessity is there for me to +apologize to you? If I have written sense and you consider it nonsense, +you owe me an apology for your erroneous opinion. But if I have written +sense and you have derived pleasure from the perusal of it, then we are +both content, and I need neither forefend your criticism nor beg your +excuses. Thus then I have proved that though it may possibly be +necessary for you to apologize to me, it cannot under any circumstance +be needful for me to apologize to you. But there is a small class to +whom the above remarks do not apply. I mean those few who I delight to +think will read my book diligently and admiringly, merely because _I_ +wrote it. Whose judgment is warped by their affection, and who will be +unconscious of the weary yawn my pages may often produce. Shall I +apologize to them? No! let them read, let them yawn; T'is a labour of +love on their part, a labour which _love_ has prepared for them--and for +them alone--or mine. + +And now farewell. May your shadow _never_ grow less! May you live for a +thousand years. + +HAZOR SALAAM. + + +JANUARY 16th, 1869.--If these notes should ever be written out by my +relations after my death--for I am now like to die, let me beg that the +many mistakes in spelling, consequent upon the hurry and roughness of +the writing, may by corrected and not set down to ignorance. + + + + +LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS. + +Prince Frederic of Schleswig Holstein. +His Excellency Lieut.-General E. Frome, R.E., Governor of Guernsey. +Sir P. Stafford Carey, Bailiff of Guernsey. +Edgar MacCulloch, Esq., Lieutenant-Bailiff. +William Wallace Armstrong, Esq., San Francisco. A.B. +Mrs. Boucaut, Guernsey. +General Sir George Brooke, K.C.B., R.H.A. +Lieut.-Col. H.J. Buchanan, 2-9th Regiment. +Major Henry L. Brownrigg, 84th Regiment. +Henry S.R. Bagenal, Esq., Control Department. +Captain George P. Beamish, 36th Regiment. +Mr. George Beedle, Quarter-Master 6th Regiment. +A. Brown, Esq., National Provincial Bank of England. +J. P. Bainbrigge, Esq., Bank of England, Liverpool. +J. Banckes, Esq., Shipwrecked Mariners' Society. +Mrs. Crawford, Guernsey. +Mrs. Cunnynghame, Edinburgh. +W. Collins, Esq., M.D., Scots Fusilier Guards. +Mrs. Cave, Hartley Whitney, Hants. +Captain G. Collis, 6th Regiment. +Colonel Conran, Fitzroy, Melbourne. +H. Couling, Esq., Brighton. +H. Cuppaidge, Esq. +Miss Dugdale, 75, Gloucester Terrace, Hyde Park, W. +Miss E. Donne, Grove Terrace Highgate. +Miss Donne, Salisbury. +James D'Altera, Esq., M.D. +James Deane, Esq., Queenstown, Cork. +W.G. Don, Esq., M.D. +Dr. Drewitt, Wimborne, Dorset. +Dr. Dudfield, 8, Upper Phillimore Place, Kensington, W. +B. De Marylski, Esq., Royal Artillery. +Captain P. De Saumarez, Guernsey. +Captain D.K. Evans, 6th Regiment. +Mrs. W. Foster, 7, Lower Berkeley Street, London. +Mrs. E. Foster, 10, Chester Terrace, Regent's Park. +Mrs. Feilden, Isle of Herm. +Major-Gen. Sampson Freeth, late Royal Engineers. +Major-Gen. James H. Freeth, late Royal Engineers. +Colonel Foster, late 16th Lancers. +The Rev. W. Foran, Guernsey. +Walter Freeth Esq., Croydon. +Henry Foster Esq., Victoria Road, Kensington. +Patterson Foster, Esq. +Kingsly, O. Foster, Esq. +Mrs. F.W. Gosselin, Guernsey. +Rev. F. Giffard, The Vicarage, Hartley Wintney. +John C. Guerin, Esq., Guernsey. +S.M. Gully, Esq., 9th Regiment. +F.L. Grundy, Esq., 6th Regiment. +M. Garnier, Guernsey. +Mrs. Horridge. +Lieut.-Col. Fitzwilliam Hunter, 36th Regiment. +T. Holmes, Esq., 18, Great Cumberland Place, Hyde Park. +Captain J.B. Hopkins, 6th Regiment. +Reginald Hollingworth, Esq., late 77th Regiment. +T. Husband, Esq., 34, Argyle Road, Kensington. +Charles Hogge, Esq., 6th Regiment. + +In Memoriam. +Miss B.S.H. Coventry Jeffery. +Captain A.H. Josselyn, 9th Regiment. +J.W. Jones, Esq., 5th Dragoon Guards. +The Rev. Charles Kingsley, M.A. +Mr. J. Kenwood, Hartley Wintney. +Mrs. Le Marchant Thomas Le Marchant, Guernsey. +Miss Lefebvre, Guernsey. +Mrs. La Serre, Guernsey. +Sir T. Galbraith Logan, K.C.B., Director General. +Thomas Lacy, Esq., Guernsey. +Major R.B. Lloyd, 36th Regiment. +"Library," Officers, 36th Regiment. +Mr. Thomas Lenfestey, Guernsey. +Mrs. MacPherson, Guernsey. +Mrs. Mogg, Clifton. +Mrs. Peter Martin, Guernsey. +Mrs. Myers, Guernsey. +A.D. MacGregor, Esq., Guernsey. +Capt. A.E. Morgan, late 71st Highland Lt. Inf. +Captain J.W. Massey, 9th Regiment. +J.W. Morgan, Esq., 6th Regiment. +James E. Macdonnel, Esq., 9th Regiment. +W.H. Marriot, Esq., 36th Regiment. +S.M. Maxwell, Esq., 36th Regiment. +A. Morgan, Esq., Treasurer, S.W. Railway. +The Mess, 36th Regiment. +W. Moullin, Esq., Clifton. +Miss A.M. Newman, Cheltenham. +The Rev. E.J. Ozanne, M.A., Guernsey. +Captain J. Osmer, 36th Regiment. +E.F. O'Leary, Esq., 6th Regiment. +Mrs. Joshua Priaulx, Guernsey. +Mr. Charles Palmer, Hartley Wintney. +Miss M. Pittard Guernsey. +Colonel Priaulx, Guernsey. +Colonel Lewis Peyton. +G. Pollock, Esq., 36, Grosvenor Street, London, W. +C.W. Poulton, Esq., 35th Regiment. +G. Pound; Esq., Odiham, Hants. +Mrs. Ramsay, Isle of Sark. +John Roberts, Esq., M.D., Guernsey. +George M. Richmond, Esq., 36th Regiment. +J.L. Rose, Esq., 36th Regiment. +Mrs. Sandes, St. John's Hill, London, S.W. +Mrs. R. Smith, Guernsey. +Lieut.-Col. R. Scott, Fort George, Aberdeen. +Major Charles Stirling, late Royal Artillery. +Dr. Fowler Smith, District Recruiting Office, Peterborough. +Capt. C. Spurgeon, 36th Regiment. +Capt. H. Stopford, 36th Regiment. +W. Smail, Esq., 36th Regiment. +R.B. Smyth, Esq., M.B. 102d Regiment. +Mrs. Threllfall, Ferryside, South Wales. +Capt. C. Townsend, Royal Artillery. +D. Thorburn, Esq., M.D., 8th Hussars. +Mrs. Wren, 3 Paris Square, Bayswater. +Charles Williams, Esq., Guernsey. +Watkin S. Whylock, Esq., M.D., Assist.-Surgeon. +Capt. H. Webb, 36th Regiment. +Mr Wetheral, Oak Lodge, Winchfield. +Netley Library. +And "Others received too late for publication." + + + +LE LIEVRE, PRINTER, STAR-OFFICE, BORDAGE-STREET. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Three Months of My Life, by J. F. 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