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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/14066-0.txt b/14066-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..980f944 --- /dev/null +++ b/14066-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3001 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14066 *** + +EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME + +by + +MARY SWARTZ ROSE + +Assistant-Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia +University + +New York + +1918 + + + + + + + + The time has come, the Aggies said, + To talk of many things, + Of what to eat, of calories, + Of cabbages and kings, + Of vitamines and sausages, + And whether costs have wings. + + _Journal of Home Economics_, + November, 1917. + + + + +PREFACE + + + "FOOD IS FUEL FOR FIGHTERS. Do not waste it. Save WHEAT, MEAT, + SUGARS AND FATS. Send more to our Soldiers, Sailors and Allies." + + +The patriotic housewife finds her little domestic boat sailing in +uncharted waters. The above message of the Food Administration disturbs +her ordinary household routine, upsets her menus and puts her recipes out +of commission. It also renders inoperative some of her usual methods of +economy at a time when rising food prices make economy more imperative +than ever. To be patriotic and still live on one's income is a complex +problem. This little book was started in response to a request for "a war +message about food." It seemed to the author that a simple explanation of +the part which some of our common foods play in our diet might be both +helpful and reassuring. To change one's menu is often trying; to be +uncertain whether the substituted foods will preserve one's health and +strength makes adjustment doubly difficult. It is hoped that the brief +chapters which follow will make it easier to "save wheat, meat, sugars and +fats" and to make out an acceptable bill of fare without excessive cost. + +Thanks are due to the Webb Publishing Company, St. Paul, Minnesota, for +permission to reprint three of the chapters, which appeared originally in +_The Farmer's Wife_. + +TEACHERS COLLEGE, Columbia University, New York City. + +December 1, 1917. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + CHAPTER + + I. THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME + + II. CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT + + III. THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE + + IV. THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES + + V. ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES? + + VI. FAT AND VITAMINES + + VII. "SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE" + + VIII. ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME + + APPENDIX--SOME WAR TIME RECIPES + + + + +EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME + + (Reprinted from _The Farmer's Wife_, by permission of the Webb + Publishing Company.) + + +There is a quaint old fairy tale of a friendly pitcher that came and took +up its abode in the home of an aged couple, supplying them from its magic +depths with food and drink and many other comforts. Of this tale one is +reminded in considering the place of the milk pitcher in the home. How +many housewives recognize the bit of crockery sitting quietly on the shelf +as one of their very best friends? How many know that it will cover many +of their mistakes in the choice of food for their families? That it +contains mysterious substances upon which growth depends? That it stands +ready to save them both work and worry in regard to food? That it is +really the only indispensable article on the bill of fare? + +Diet is like a house, a definite thing, though built of different kinds of +material. For a house we need wall material, floor material, window, +ceiling, chimney stuffs and so forth. We may, if we like, make floors, +walls, and ceilings all of the same kind of stuff, wood for example, but +we should need glass for windows and bricks or tile for chimneys. Or, +again, we may choose brick for walls, floors, and chimneys but it would +not do any better than wood for windows, would be rather unsatisfactory +for ceilings, and impossible for doors. In other words, we could not build +a modern house from one kind of material only and we really need at least +four to carry out even a simple plan. + +In a similar fashion, diet is constructed from fuel material, +body-building material and body-regulating material. No diet is perfect in +which these are not all represented. Now, foods are like sections of +houses. Some correspond to single parts, as a floor or a window or perhaps +a chimney; others to a house complete except for windows and roof; still +others to a house lacking only a door or two. It takes some thought to put +them together so that we shall have all kinds of parts without a great +many extra ones of certain kinds and not enough of others. + +Milk is unique in that it comes nearest of all foods to being a complete +diet in itself. It is like the house with only a door missing. We could be +quite comfortable in such a house for a long time though we could make a +more complete diet by adding some graham bread or an apple or some +spinach. + +We all associate milk with cows and cows with farms, but how closely is +milk associated with the farm table? Is it prized as the most valuable +food which the farm produces? Every drop should be used as food; and this +applies to skim milk, sour milk, and buttermilk as well as sweet milk. Do +we all use milk to the best advantage in the diet? Here are a few points +which it is well to bear in mind: + +_Milk will take the place of meat._ The world is facing a meat famine. The +famine was on the way before the war began but it has approached with +tremendous speed this last year. Every cow killed and eaten means not only +so much less meat available but so much less of an adequate substitute. +Lean meat contributes to the diet chiefly protein and iron. We eat it +primarily for the protein. Hence in comparing meat and milk we think first +of their protein content. One and one-fourth cups of milk will supply as +much protein as two ounces of lean beef. The protein of milk is largely +the part which makes cottage cheese. So cottage cheese is a good meat +substitute and a practical way of using part of the skim milk when the +cream is taken off for butter. One and one-half ounces of cottage cheese +(one-fourth cup) are the protein equivalent of two ounces of lean beef. +Skim milk and buttermilk are just as good substitutes for meat as whole +milk. Since meat is one of the most expensive items in the food bill, its +replacement by milk is a very great financial economy. This is true even +if the meat is raised on the farm, as food for cattle is used much more +economically in the production of milk than of beef. + +_Milk is the greatest source of calcium (lime)._ Lime is one of the +components of food that serves two purposes; it is both building material +for bones and regulating material for the body as a whole, helping in +several important ways to maintain good health. It is essential that +everyone have a supply of lime and particularly important that all growing +infants, children, and young people have plenty for construction of bones +and teeth. There is almost none in meat and bread, none in common fats and +sugars, and comparatively few common foods can be taken alone and digested +in large enough quantities to insure an adequate supply; whereas a pint of +milk (whole, skim, or buttermilk) will guarantee to a grown person a +sufficient amount, and a quart a day will provide for the greater needs of +growing children. Whatever other foods we have, we cannot afford to +leave milk out of the diet because of its lime. Under the most favorable +dietary conditions, when the diet is liberal and varied, an adult should +have _at least_ half a pint of milk a day and no child should be +expected to thrive with less than a pint. + +_Milk contains a most varied assortment of materials needed in small +amounts_ for the body welfare, partly for constructive and partly for +regulating purposes. These are rather irregularly distributed in other +kinds of food materials. When eggs, vegetables, and cereals are freely +used, we are not likely to suffer any lack; but when war conditions limit +the number of foods which we can get, it is well to remember that the more +limited the variety of foods in the diet the more important milk becomes. + +_Milk will take the place of bread, butter, sugar, and other foods used +chiefly for fuel._ The body is an engine which must be stoked regularly in +order to work. The more work done the more fuel needed. That is what we +mean when we talk about the food giving "working strength." A farmer and +his wife and usually all the family need much fuel because they do much +physical work. Even people whose work is physically light require +considerable fuel. A quart of milk will give as much working force as half +a pound of bread, one-fourth of a pound of butter, or six ounces of sugar. +And this is in addition to the other advantages already mentioned. + +_Milk contains specifics for growth._ Experiments with animals have taught +us that there are two specific substances, known as vitamines, which must +be present in the diet if a young animal is to grow. If either one is +absent, growth is impossible. Both are to be found in milk, one in the +cream and the other in the skim milk or whey. For this reason children +should have whole milk rather than skim milk. Of course, butter and skim +milk should produce the same result as whole milk. Eggs also have these +requisites and can be used to supplement milk for either one, but as a +rule it is more practical to depend upon milk, and usually more +economical. + +For little children, milk is best served as a beverage. But as children +grow up, the fluidity of milk makes them feel as if it were not food +enough and it is generally better to use it freely in the kitchen first, +and then, if there is any surplus, put it on the table as a beverage or +serve it thus to those who need an extra supply--the half-grown boys, for +instance, who need more food in a day than even a hard-working farmer. + +A good plan is to set aside definitely, as a day's supply, a quart apiece +for each person under sixteen and a pint apiece for each one over this +age. Then see at night how well one has succeeded in disposing of it. If +there is much left, one should consider ways of using it to advantage. The +two simplest probably are, first, as cream sauce for vegetables of all +sorts; for macaroni or hominy with or without cheese; or for hard cooked +eggs or left-over meats; and next in puddings baked a long time in the +oven so that much of the water in the milk is evaporated. Such puddings +are easy to prepare on almost any scale and are invaluable for persons +with big appetites because they are concentrated without being +unwholesome. + +The milk pitcher and the vegetable garden are the best friends of the +woman wishing to set a wholesome and economical table. Vegetables +supplement milk almost ideally, since they contain the vegetable fiber +which helps to guard against constipation, and the iron which is the +lacking door in the "house that milk built." + +Vegetables which are not perfect enough to serve uncooked, like the broken +leaves of lettuce and the green and tough parts of celery, are excellent +cooked and served with a cream sauce. Cream sauce makes it possible also +to cook enough of a vegetable for two days at once, sending it to the +table simply dressed in its own juices or a little butter the first time +and making a scalloped dish with cream sauce and crumbs the next day. +Vegetables which do not lend themselves to this treatment can be made into +cream soups, which are excellent as the hot dish for supper, because they +can be prepared in the morning and merely reheated at serving time. + +Finally, the addition of milk in liberal quantities to tea and coffee +(used of course only by adults); its use without dilution with water in +cocoa; and instead of water in bread when that is made at home, ought to +enable a housewife to dispose satisfactorily of her day's quota of milk. +If it should accumulate, it can be dispatched with considerable rapidity +in the form of ice cream or milk sherbet. When there is much skim milk, +the latter is a most excellent way of making it popular, various fruits in +their seasons being used for flavor, as strawberries, raspberries, and +peaches, with lemons to fall back on when no native fruit is at hand. + +The world needs milk today as badly as wheat. All that we can possibly +spare is needed in Europe for starving little ones. In any shortage the +slogan must be "children first." But in any limited diet milk is such a +safeguard that we should bend our energies to saving it from waste and +producing more, rather than learning to do without it. Skim milk from +creameries is too valuable to be thrown away. Everyone should be on the +alert to condemn any use of milk except as food and to encourage +condensation and drying of skim milk to be used as a substitute for fresh +milk. + +When the milk pitcher is allowed to work its magic for the human race, we +shall have citizens of better physique than the records of our recruiting +stations show today. Even when the family table is deprived of its +familiar wheat bread and meat, we may be strong if we invoke the aid of +this friendly magician. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT + + (Reprinted from _The Farmer's Wife_, by permission of the Webb + Publishing Company.) + + +"Save wheat!" This great slogan of our national food campaign has been +echoed and reĆ«choed for six months, but do we yet realize that it means +US? We have had, hitherto, a great deal of wheat in our diet. Fully +one-third of our calories have come from wheat flour. To ask us to do +without wheat is to shake the very foundation of our daily living. How +shall we be able to do without it? What shall we substitute for it? These +are questions which every housewife must ask and answer before she can +take her place in the Amazon Army of Food Conservers. + +Is it not strange that out of half a dozen different grains cultivated for +human consumption, the demand should concentrate upon wheat? One might +almost say that the progress of civilization is marked by raised bread. +And wheat has, beyond all other grains, the unique properties that make +possible a light, porous yet somewhat tenacious loaf. We like the taste of +it, mild but sweet; the feel of it, soft yet firm; the comfort of it, +almost perfect digestion of every particle. We have been brought up on it +and it is a hardship to change our food habits. It takes courage and +resolution. It takes visions of our soldiers crossing the seas to defend +us from the greedy eye of militarism and thereby deprived of so many +things which we still enjoy. Shall we hold back from them the "staff of +life" which they need so much more than we? + +Can we live without wheat? Certainly, and live well. We must recognize the +scientific fact that no one food (with the exception of milk) is +indispensable. There are four letters in the food alphabet: _A_, fuel for +the body machine; _B_, protein for the upkeep of the machinery; _C_, +mineral salts, partly for upkeep and partly for lubrication--to make all +parts work smoothly together; _D_, vitamines, subtle and elusive +substances upon whose presence depends the successful use by the body of +all the others. These four letters, rightly combined, spell health. They +are variously distributed in food materials. Sometimes all are found in +one food (milk for example), sometimes only one (as in sugar), sometimes +two or three. The amounts also vary in the different foods. To build up a +complete diet we have to know how many of these items are present in a +given food and also how much of each is there. + +Now, cereals are much alike in what they contribute to the diet. In +comparing them we are apt to emphasize their differences, much as we do in +comparing two men. One man may be a little taller, a little heavier, have +a different tilt to his nose, but any two men are more alike than a man +and a dog. So corn has a little less protein than wheat and considerably +less lime, yet corn and wheat are, nutritionally, more alike than either +is like sugar. + +None of the cereals will make a complete diet by itself. If we take white +bread as the foundation, we must add to it something containing lime, such +as milk or cheese; something containing iron, such as spinach, egg yolk, +meat, or other iron-rich food; something containing vitamines, such as +greens or other vitamine-rich food; something to reĆ«nforce the proteins, +as milk, eggs, meat, or nuts. It is not possible to make a perfect diet +with only one other kind of food besides white bread. It can be done with +three: bread, milk, and spinach, for example. + +If we substitute whole wheat for white bread, we can make a complete diet +with two foods--this and milk. We get from the bran and the germ what in +the other case we got from the spinach. _All the cereals can be +effectively supplemented by milk and green vegetables._ If green +vegetables (or substitutes for them like dried peas and beans or fruit) +are hard to get we should give preference to cereals from which the bran +coats have not been removed, such as oatmeal and whole wheat. Then the +diet will not be deficient in iron, which is not supplied in large enough +amounts from white bread and milk. Oatmeal is the richest in iron of all +the cereals. + +With such knowledge, we may alter our diet very greatly without danger of +undernutrition. But we must learn to cook other cereals at least as well +as we do wheat. Without proper cooking they are unpalatable and +unwholesome, and they are not so easy to cook as wheat. They take a longer +time and we cannot get the same culinary effects, since with the exception +of rye they will not make a light loaf. Fortunately we are not asked to +deny ourselves wheat entirely, only to substitute other cereals for part +of it. Let each housewife resolve when next she buys flour to buy at the +same time one-fourth as much of some other grain, finely ground, rye, +corn, barley, according to preference, and mix the two thoroughly at once. +Then she will be sure not to forget to carry out her good intentions. +Bread made of such a mixture will be light and tender, and anything that +cannot be made with it had better be dispensed with in these times. + +Besides the saving of wheat for our country's sake, we shall do well to +economize in it for our own. Compared with other cereals, wheat is +expensive. We can get more food, in every sense of the word, from half a +pound of oatmeal than we can from a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread, and +the oatmeal will not cost one-half as much as the bread. A loaf of Boston +brown bread made with one cupful each of cornmeal, oatmeal (finely +ground), rye flour, molasses, and skim milk will have two and one-half +times the food value of a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread and will cost +little more. One-half pound of cornmeal, supplemented by a half pint of +milk, will furnish more of everything needed by the body than such a +twelve-ounce loaf, usually at less cost. + +It pays at all times to use cereals in other forms than bread, for both +health and economy. Does your family eat cereal for breakfast? A dish of +oatmeal made from one-fourth cupful of the dry cereal will take the place +of two slices of white bread, each about half an inch thick and three +inches square, and give us iron besides. Served with milk, it will make a +well-balanced meal. When we add a little fruit to give zest and some crisp +corn bread to contrast with the soft mush, we have a meal in which we may +take a just pride, _provided the oatmeal is properly cooked_. + +A good dish of oatmeal is as creditable a product as a good loaf of bread. +It cannot be made without taking pains to get the right proportions of +meal, water, and salt, and to cook thoroughly, which means at least four +hours in a double boiler, over night in a fireless cooker, or half an hour +at twenty pounds in a pressure cooker. Half-cooked oatmeal is most +unwholesome, as well as unpalatable. It is part of our patriotic duty not +to give so useful a food a bad reputation. + +The man who does hard physical labor, especially in the open air, may +complain that the oatmeal breakfast does not "stay by" him. This is +because it digests rapidly. What he needs is a little fat stirred into the +mush before it is sent to the table, or butter as well as milk and sugar +served with it. If one must economize, the cereal breakfast should always +be the rule. It is impossible in any other way to provide for a family +adequately on a small sum, especially where there are growing children. + +Next to oatmeal, hominy is one of the cheapest breakfast foods. It has +less flavor and is improved by the addition of a few dates cut into +quarters or some small stewed seedless raisins, which also add the iron +which hominy lacks. For the adults of the family the staying qualities of +hominy and cornmeal can be increased by cutting the molded mush in slices +and frying till a crisp crust is formed. This can be obtained more easily +if the cereals are cooked in a mixture of milk and water instead of water +alone. The milk supplements the cereal as acceptably as in a dish of mush +and milk. Cornmeal needs even more cooking than oatmeal to develop an +agreeable flavor. It can be improved by the addition of an equal amount of +farina or cream of wheat. + +Cereals for dinner are acceptable substitutes for such vegetables as +potatoes, both for economy and for variety. The whole grains, rice, +barley, and hominy, lend themselves best to such use. Try a dish of +creamed salmon with a border of barley; one of hominy surrounded by fried +apples; or a bowl of rice heaped with bananas baked to a turn and removed +from their skins just before serving, and be glad that the war has stirred +you out of food ruts! + +Cereals combined with milk make most wholesome puddings, each almost a +well-balanced meal in itself. They are easier to make than pies, +shortcakes, and other desserts which require wheat flour, and they are +splendid growing food for boys and girls. + +For the hard-working man who misses the slowly-digesting pie, serve the +puddings with a hard sauce or add a little butter when making them. For +the growing children, raisins, dates, and other fruits are welcome +additions on account of their iron. From half a cupful to a cupful of +almost any cereal pudding made with milk is the equivalent of an ordinary +serving of pie. + +Aside from the avoidance of actual waste of food materials, there seems to +be no one service so imperative for housewives to render in these critical +times as the mastery of the art of using cereals. These must be made to +save not only wheat but meat, and for most of us also money. + +A wholesome and yet economical diet may be built upon a plan wherein we +find for an average working man fourteen ounces of cereal food and one +pint of milk, from two to four ounces of meat or a good meat substitute, +two ounces of fat, three ounces of sugar or other sweeteners, at least one +kind of fruit, and one kind of vegetable besides potatoes (more if one has +a garden). + +The cereal may furnish half the fuel value of the diet, partly +bread-stuffs and partly in some of the other ways as suggested, without +any danger of undernutrition. Remember the fable of the farmer who told +his sons he had left them a fortune and bade them dig on his farm for it +after his death, and how they found wealth not as buried treasure but +through thorough tillage of the soil. So one might leave a message to +woman to look in the cereal pot, for there is a key to health and wealth, +and a weapon to win the greatest war the world has ever seen. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE + + +"Do not buy a pound of meat until you have bought three quarts of milk" is +a "war sign" pointing two ways. On the one hand it tells us that we need +to save meat; on the other, that we should encourage the production of +that most indispensable food--milk. + +But what a revolution in some households if this advice is heeded! +Statisticians tell us that Americans have been consuming meat at the rate +of 171 pounds per capita per year, which means nearly half a pound apiece +every day for each man, woman, child, and infant in arms. Now, as mere +infants and some older folk have not had any, it follows that many of us +have had a great deal more. Did we need it? Shall we be worse off without +it? Meat is undeniably popular. In spite of the rising price and the +patriotic spirit of conservation, meat consumption goes on in many +quarters at much the usual rate. There is probably no other one food so +generally liked. It has a decided and agreeable flavor, a satisfactory +"chew," and leaves an after-sense of being well fed that many take as the +sign of whether they are well nourished or not. It digests well, even when +eaten rapidly, and perhaps partly for this reason is favored by the +hurried man of affairs. It is easy to prepare and hence is appreciated by +the cook, who knows that even with unskillful treatment it will be +acceptable and require few accessories to make an agreeable meal. Its rich +flavor helps to relieve the flatness of foods like rice, hominy, beans, or +bread. From this point of view there is no such thing as a "meat +substitute." + +But, nutritionally speaking, meat is only one of many; undeniably a good +source of protein, but no better than milk or eggs. A lamb chop is a very +nice item on a bill of fare, but the protein it contains can be secured +just as well from one large egg, or two level tablespoonfuls of peanut +butter, or one and one-fourth ounces of cheese; or a part of the time from +a quarter of a cup of dried navy beans or a little less of dried split +peas. + +Meat is highly regarded as a source of iron; but, again, it has no +monopoly of this important building-stone in the house of diet. The eggs, +or peas, or half the beans mentioned above would any one of them furnish +more iron than the lamb chop, while a quarter of a cup of cooked spinach +or a small dish of string beans would furnish quite as much. Besides green +vegetables, fruit, and the yolk of egg, cereals are a not inconsiderable +source of iron. A man would have adequate nourishment for a day, including +a sufficient supply of iron, if he were doing only moderate physical +labor, from one pint of milk, one and one-half pounds of whole wheat +bread, and three medium-sized apples. Beef juice is often used as a source +of iron for children and undoubtedly it is one which is palatable and +digestible, but it takes a quarter of a pound of beef to get a few +tablespoonfuls of juice, and a tablespoonful of juice would hardly contain +as much iron as one egg yolk; and it seems probable that the iron of the +egg yolk would be better utilized for the making of good red blood. + +Meat is good fuel for the human machine if used in moderate amounts along +with other food. But meat is no better fuel than other food. An ordinary +lamb chop will furnish no more calories than a dish of oatmeal, a piece of +bread an inch thick and three inches square, a large apple or banana, an +egg, five ounces (five-eighths of a cup) of milk, or a tablespoonful of +peanut butter. The fatter meat is the higher its fuel value (providing the +fat is used for food). A tablespoonful of bacon fat or beef drippings has +the same fuel value as a tablespoonful of butter or lard, or as the lamb +chop mentioned above. The man who insists that he has to have meat for +working strength judges by how he feels after a meal and not by the +scientific facts. While in the long run appetite serves as a measure of +food requirement, we can find plenty of instances where it does not make a +perfect measure. Some people have too large appetites for their body needs +and get too fat from sheer surplus of fuel stored in the body for future +needs as fat. If such people have three good meals a day all the time, +there never is any future need and the fat stays. Other people have too +small appetites for their needs and they never seem to get a surplus of +fuel on hand. They live, as it were, from hand to mouth. Anyone accustomed +to eating meat will have an unsatisfied feeling at first after a meal +without meat. The same is true of other highly flavored foods. It is well +for the cook to bear this in mind and serve a few rather highly seasoned +dishes when there is no meat on the bill of fare. A very sweet dessert +will often satisfy this peculiar sensation, and it can be allayed, at +least in part, by the drinking of water some little time after the meal. +Such a sensation will pass away when one becomes accustomed to the change +in diet. It is probably due to certain highly flavored substances +dissolved in the meat juices which are known to be excellent stimulants to +the flow of gastric juice and which are stimulating in other ways. These +have no food value in themselves, but, nevertheless, we prize meat for +them, as is shown by the distaste we have for meat which has its juices +removed. "Soup meat" has always been a problem for the housewife--hard to +make palatable--and yet the greater part of the nourishment of meat is +left in the meat itself after soup is made from it. + +Let us frankly recognize then that we eat meat because we like it--for its +flavor and texture rather than any peculiar nourishing properties--and +that it is only our patriotic self-denial or force of economic +circumstances that induces us to forgo our accustomed amounts of a food +which is pleasant and (in moderation) wholesome. We must save meat that +the babies of the world may have milk to drink. Nowhere in Europe is there +enough milk for babies today. A conservative request for one European city +alone was a shipment of one million pounds of condensed milk per month! If +cattle are killed for food there will be little milk to send and the +babies will perish. We must save meat for our soldiers and sailors, +because they need it more than we do. It is not only easily transported, +but one of the few things to give zest to their necessarily limited fare. +Fresh fruits and green vegetables, which may serve us as appetizers, are +not to be found on the war fields. Dainty concoctions from cheese and nuts +may provide for us flavor as well as nutriment, but meat is the +alternative to the dull monotony of bread and beans for the soldier--the +tonic of appetite, the stimulant to good digestion. We can scarcely send +him anything to take its place. + +We must save meat, too, as a general food economy. Meat is produced at the +expense of grain, which we might eat ourselves. And the production of meat +is a very wasteful process. Grains have a fuel value for man approximating +1,600 calories per pound. A pound of meat in the form of beef will require +the consumption by the animal of some fourteen pounds of grain. The pound +of beef will furnish perhaps 1,200 calories, while the grain consumed will +represent over 20,000 calories. The production of milk from grain is only +about one-third as expensive, so the purchase of three quarts of milk to +one pound of meat is an economy in more ways than one. + +Saving for the rest of the world will not be without some physical +advantage to ourselves, if we have been accustomed to indulge in meat +freely. Among the well-to-do meat eating is apt to be overdone to the +extent of affecting the kidneys and the arteries, and some enforced +restriction would be a real advantage to health, as has been demonstrated +in other than war times. Because a food is good is no reason for unlimited +quantities; an ounce of sugar a day is wholesome--a pound is likely to +result in both indigestion and a badly balanced diet. A quarter of a pound +of meat a day is not undesirable for an adult, but a pound a day may +result in general overeating or in the special ills which are related +directly to a large quantity of meat. One of these is an upsetting of a +proper balance of food elements in the diet. Diets high in meat are apt to +be low in milk and consequently low in calcium. If the income is limited +this is almost sure to be the case, since there will not be enough money +to provide meat freely and at the same time satisfy other nutritive +requirements. Such diets are also likely to be low in fuel value and not +provide enough working force even while men are declaring that they must +have meat to give them strength. They would have more strength and a +better diet from every point of view if part of the meat money were spent +for milk. So the injunction to buy three quarts of milk to one pound of +meat is a good rule for securing a well balanced and ample diet at the +lowest cost. + +Another good rule is to spend no more for meat, fish, and eggs than for +milk, and as much for fruits and vegetables as for meat, fish, and eggs. +Families very commonly spend as much as one-third of the food money for +meat; and, while they may secure a full third of their protein, iron, and +phosphorus in this way, they may not get more than a sixth of their fuel +and almost no calcium. Three quarts of milk at fourteen cents a quart will +yield about 2,000 calories. For an expenditure of forty-two cents for beef +as free from waste as milk, we would pay perhaps thirty-two cents per +pound. A pound and a quarter of lean beef would yield about 1,000 +calories. So as fuel alone the milk would be twice as cheap as the meat. +Three quarts of milk would yield almost if not quite as much protein as +the meat and a liberal supply of calcium to offset the iron furnished by +the meat. Everything considered, then, milk is a better investment than +meat. The same is true of some of the other foods which supply protein in +the diet such as dry peas and beans; cheese and peanut butter are at least +twice as valuable nutritionally as beef. The domestic problem is to make +palatable dishes from these foods. This requires time and patience. The +cook must not get discouraged if the first trial does not bring marked +success. The rest of the family should count it their "bit" to eat +valiantly until they can eat joyfully. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES + + +Never did it seem truer that "blessings brighten as they take their +flight" than when the potato went off the market or soaring prices put it +out of reach in the winter of 1917. "How shall I plan my meals without +it?" was the housewife's cry. "How shall I enjoy my meals without it?" +said all the millions of potato eaters who immediately forgot that there +was still a large number of foods from which they might extract some +modicum of enjoyment. + +And so the Nutrition Expert was asked to talk about "potato substitutes" +and expected to exercise some necromancy whereby that which was not a +potato might become a potato. Now, the Nutrition Expert was very +imperturbable--not at all disturbed by the calamity which had befallen our +tables. That unfeeling person saw potatoes, not in terms of their hot +mealiness and spicy mildness, but in terms of that elusive thing called +"DIET." The vanishing tuber was bidden to answer the dietary roll-call: + + "Proteins?" "Here!" Answer somewhat faint but + suggesting remarkable worth. + + "Fats?" No answer. + + "Carbohydrates?" Loud note from "Starch." + + "Mineral salts?" "Here!" From a regular chorus, among + which "Potassium" and "Iron" + easily distinguishable. + + "Vitamines and "Here! Here!" Especially vociferous, the + Other Accessories?" "Anti-Scorbutic Property." + +"This is a good showing for any single food material. The potato, as truly +as bread, may be called a 'staff of life.' Men have lived in health upon +it for many months without any other food save oleomargarine. Its protein, +though small in amount, is most efficient in body-building, its salts are +varied in kind and liberal in amount, and it furnishes a large amount of +very easily digested fuel besides. It is at its best when cooked in the +simplest possible way--baked or boiled in its skin. Nevertheless we are +not absolutely dependent upon the potato." + +"Alas," said the housewife, "this doesn't tell me what to cook for +dinner!" "Patience, Madam, we shall see about that." The fact that starch +is present is what makes the potato seem so substantial. But bread, rice, +hominy, in fact, all cereal foods can supply starch just as well. Pick out +the one you fancy and serve it for your dinner. One good-sized roll or a +two-inch cube of corn bread, or three-fourths of a cup of boiled rice will +sustain you just as well as a medium-sized potato. A banana, baked or +fried, makes an excellent substitute for a potato. An apple is also a very +palatable potato equivalent, if you want something more spicy than hominy +or corn bread. Why mourn over the lost potato? + +But how about those mineral salts? Well, the potato has no monopoly on +those, either, though it is ordinarily a very valuable contributor. Milk +has already been mentioned as one of the great safeguarding sources of +so-called ash constituents. Others are vegetables and fruits of different +kinds. These have been a neglected and sometimes a despised part of the +diet: "Why spend money for that which is not meat?" is often taken +literally. Even food specialists have been known to say, "Fruits and +vegetables are mostly water and indigestible fiber; they have little food +value." This is a good deal like saying, "If your coat be long enough you +do not need a pair of shoes." A potato has as much iron as an egg yolk or +a medium-sized chop. This is one more reason why we should be sorry to +take the useful tuber from our tables, but we may feel a certain +independence, even when meat and eggs are prohibitive in price, since by +canning or drying, if in no other way, we can have green vegetables as a +source of iron the whole year through. Some people are afraid that canned +vegetables will prove unwholesome; but if removed from the can as soon as +opened and heated to boiling before they are eaten, we are recently +assured that the danger of food poisoning will be materially lessened. +Even when such vegetables are wanted for salads, boiling and subsequent +cooling are advised. The mineral salts of vegetables dissolve into the +water in which they stand, and in any shortage of such food, or for the +greatest economy, it would seem wise to save the water in the can, which +is often thrown away to secure a more delicate flavor. Water from the +cooking of fresh vegetables which are not protected by skins (among them +spinach, peas, carrots, and asparagus), can often be reduced to a small +amount by steaming instead of boiling the vegetable, or any drained off +can be used in gravy, soup, sauce, or some similar fashion. The strong +flavor of some vegetables, however, makes such economy rather impractical. + +Some people discriminate against canned and dried vegetables because they +do not taste like fresh ones. This seems rather unreasonable, as we want a +variety of flavors in our diet and might welcome the change which comes +from this way of treating food as well as that which comes from different +methods of cooking. Nobody expects a stew to taste like a roast, and yet +both may be good and we would not want either one all the time. Instead of +regretting that canned peas do not taste like those fresh from the garden +(incomparable ones!) let us be glad that they taste as good as they do. +Would we like them any better if they tasted like cornmeal mush? + +While a potato has about as much phosphorus as an egg yolk, substitutes +for it in this respect are not hard to find. Five tablespoonfuls of milk +or half an ounce of cheese will easily supply as much, while half a cup of +cooked string beans will provide all the iron as well as half the +phosphorus in a potato, and a teaspoon of butter or other fat added to the +beans will make them equal in fuel value. On the other hand, two small +slices of whole wheat bread would furnish all the phosphorus, half the +iron, and an equal amount of fuel. + +The potato is conspicuously high in potassium, but it is not likely that +in any diet containing one kind of fruit and one kind of vegetable each +day there will be any permanent shortage of this substance. Spinach, +celery, parsnips, lettuce, cabbage, rutabagas, beets, carrots, tomatoes, +cucumbers, and turnips are all good sources of potassium and some of them +are available all the year round without canning and drying. + +But what significance has the "Anti-Scorbutic Property"? Does that not +make potatoes indispensable? Scurvy, Madam, occurs whenever people live +for a long time on a monotonous diet without fresh food. The potato offers +good protection against this disease at a low cost, but other foods have +long been known to possess the same power, among them oranges, lemons, +limes, and other fruits, and cabbage and other green vegetables; in fact, +a mixed diet in which fruits and vegetables occur is assurance of freedom +from scurvy. Just how far the potato will go in providing the specific +vitamines essential for growth is still unsettled. It undoubtedly contains +one of them in goodly amount, but for the present it is wise to include +some green (leaf) vegetable in the diet even when potatoes are plentiful, +especially if butter, milk, and eggs cannot be freely used. + +Nutritionally then, we can find substitutes for the potato; practically, +too, we can find quite satisfactory alternatives for it in our +conventional bills of fare. On the face of things the potato is a bland +mealy food which blends well with the high flavor and the firm texture of +meat and the softness of many other cooked vegetables. Gastronomically, +rice or hominy comes about as near to having the same qualities, with hot +bread, macaroni, sweet potatoes, and baked bananas (underripe so as not to +be too juicy and sweet) close rivals. These are not so easy to cook and +serve as the potato and are not likely to supplant it when it is +plentiful. It might be worth while, however, to substitute these for +potatoes rather often. The latter will be appreciated all the more if not +served every day in the week, or at least not more than once a day. We +might extend the fashion of baked beans and brown bread to roast pork with +rice, ham with baked bananas, roast beef with hominy, and broiled steak +with macaroni. Why not? You, Madam Housewife, are always sighing for +variety, but does it never occur to you that the greatest secret of +variety lies in new combinations? + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES? + + +In the house of diet fruits and vegetables may be likened to windows and +doors, fire-places and chimneys; we could dispense with them, we could +board up our windows and make a fire on a big stone in the middle of the +room, letting the smoke escape through a hole in the roof, but such a +course would not mean comfort year in and year out. So we may exist +without fruits and vegetables, but it is worth while to stop and consider +what we gain by their use. + +We shall have to admit at the outset that if we have to spend money or +labor for them, fruits and vegetables are not the cheapest source of fuel +for the human machine. Some of them are cheaper fuel than butter, eggs, or +meat, but not as cheap as cereals, sugar, molasses, syrups, and some of +our cheapest fats. This is true of potatoes, parsnips, carrots, dried peas +and beans, and such fruits as bananas, prunes, raisins, dates, figs, and +possibly a few other dried fruits, but we cannot justify our investment in +most fruits and vegetables solely on the plea that they are "filling" in +the sense of being of high fuel value; on this ground lettuce, celery, +cabbage, tomatoes, lemons, rhubarb, cranberries, and many others would +find no place in our domestic economy. + +Remembering that man does not live by fuel alone, we may find ample +reasons for spending some of our food money upon things which at first +thought seem to give an inadequate return. There is an old adage, "An +apple a day keeps the doctor away," which if true means that the apple is +a real economy, a kind of health insurance, for an apple costs seldom over +five cents--often only one--and a doctor's visit may easily cost a hundred +times as much. There is a certain amount of truth in the saying, though +the apple does not have a monopoly of the supposed virtue. It is more +accurate, if less poetic, to say that an _assortment_ of fruits and +vegetables helps to keep us in good health. Before the days of modern +"cold pack" canning, mothers used to assemble their little home groups in +the spring and, in spite of sundry hidings under tables on the part of +reluctant Johnnies and Susies, dutifully portion out herb tea or sulphur +in molasses. Spring cleaning could never stop short of "cleansing the +blood!" And after a monotonous winter of salt pork and fried potatoes no +doubt heroic measures were necessary to make up for an ill-chosen diet. +Nowadays we recognize no such seasonal need. We carry our surplus of +fruits and vegetables over from summer to winter and profit not only in +the greater daily pleasure of our tables but in clearer skins, brighter +eyes, and less "spring fever." + +How do fruits and vegetables help to keep us well? In the first place, by +their wholesome effect upon the bowels. As a rule we associate regular +daily movements with health, but do not always recognize the part which +diet plays in securing them. If we eat little besides meat and potatoes, +bread, butter, and cake or pie, we are very likely to have constipation. +This is particularly true for those who work indoors or sit much of the +time. Now, fruits and vegetables have several properties which help to +make them laxative. Many have considerable woody fiber. In celery and +asparagus we find it in actual "strings"; in cabbage, spinach, lettuce, +and other stem or leaf vegetables it may not be so noticeable, but it is +certainly present and we should realize that it is useful. The skins of +fruit are of this nature and may often be eaten, as in case of prunes, +figs, apples, dried peaches and apricots. The outer coats of grains, which +serve the same purpose, are frequently removed by milling, but similar +coats of peas and beans are not so removed except in the case of dried +split peas. In the juices of fruits and vegetables we find a variety of +laxative substances. This explains why apple juice (sweet cider), orange +juice or diluted lemon juice may be a very desirable morning drink. The +effect is partly due to the acid but not wholly. Juices which are not acid +to the taste, as those of prunes, figs, onions, have laxative properties. +So from a great variety of fruits and vegetables, especially those which +are fibrous or acid or both, we may obtain the substitute for "pills" in +wholesome foods which are generally cheaper than drugs. + +No diet can be properly built without a suitable supply of mineral salts. +The free use of milk is our greatest safeguard against lack of any save +iron, but when milk is scarce and has to be saved as now for the babies of +the world, it is fortunate that we can make fruits and vegetables take its +place in part. Some of our very common vegetables are good sources of the +calcium (lime) and phosphorus so freely supplied in milk. Among these may +be taken as an example the carrot, which has not had due recognition in +many quarters and in some is even spoken of contemptuously as "cattle +food." Its cheapness comes from the fact that it is easy to grow and easy +to keep through the winter and should not blind us to its merits. A +good-sized carrot (weight one-fourth pound) will have only about half the +fuel value of a medium-sized potato, but nearly ten times as much calcium +as the potato and about one-third more phosphorus. While actual figures +show that other vegetables, especially parsnips, turnips, celery, +cauliflower, and lettuce, are richer in calcium than the carrot, its +cheapness and fuel value make it worthy of emphasis. Everyone who has a +garden should devote some space to this pretty and palatable vegetable. It +is perhaps at its best when steamed till soft without salting and then cut +up into a nicely seasoned white sauce; its sweetness will not then be +destroyed nor its salts lost in the cooking water. It is not only useful +as a hot vegetable, but in salads, in the form of a toothsome marmalade, +and as the foundation of a steamed pudding. For little children it is most +wholesome and they should make its acquaintance by the time they are a +year and a half old, in the form of a cream soup. A dish of carrots and +peas (one-half cup peas, one-fourth cup carrot cubes, one-half cup white +sauce) will have almost the same food values (for fuel, calcium, +phosphorus, and iron) as an equivalent serving of oatmeal, milk, and sugar +(three-fourths cup cooked oatmeal, one-half cup milk, one rounding +teaspoon sugar) and will add variety to the diet without costing a great +deal more unless one pays a fancy price for peas. + +Even when meat and eggs are not prohibitive in price, fruit and green +vegetables are an important source of iron in the diet. And when war +conditions make the free consumption of meat unpatriotic, it is reassuring +to think that we really can get along without meat very well if we know +how. Two ounces of lean beef will furnish no more iron than a quarter of a +cup of cooked spinach or half a cup of cooked string beans or dried beans, +or one-sixth of a cup of raisins, or half a dozen good-sized prunes. +Cabbage, peas, lettuce, dandelion greens, beet tops, turnip tops and other +"greens" are well worth including in our bill of fare for their iron +alone. By the time children are a year old we begin to introduce special +iron-bearing foods into their diet to supplement milk. Aside from egg +yolk, we give preference for this purpose to green vegetable juice or +pulp, especially from peas and spinach or a mixture of both. The +substantial character of dry beans is too well known to require comment, +but how many realize that they are a most valuable source of iron and +other mineral salts? The fact that they are not a "complete diet" in +themselves should not disturb anyone who realizes that all diets are built +from a variety of foods. We are hardly likely to use beans to the +exclusion of everything else except in dire necessity, and then what +better could we do than use freely a food which will go so far toward +sustaining life at so small a cost? + +There is a further significance for fruits and vegetables in their +contribution to the diet of the growth-promoting, health-protecting +vitamines. That the presence of fruits and vegetables in the diet is a +safeguard against scurvy is well known, though the full scientific +explanation is not yet ours. That the leaf vegetables (spinach, lettuce, +cabbage, and the like) contain both the vitamines which are essential to +growth in the young and to the maintenance of health in the adult seems +assured, and gives us further justification for emphasis on green +vegetables in the diet of little children, when properly +administered--i.e., always cooked, put through a fine sieve, and fed in +small quantities. + +Aside from being valuable for regulation of the bowels, for mineral salts, +and vitamines, to say nothing of more or less fuel value, fruits and +vegetables give zest to the diet. The pleasant acidity of many fruits, +their delicate aroma, their beautiful form and coloring, the ease of +preparing them for the table, are qualities for which we may legitimately +prize them, though we may not spend money for them until actual nutritive +requirements are met. Dr. Simon Patten, in his _New Basis for +Civilisation_, ably expresses the value of appetizers: "Tomatoes, the +hothouse delicacy of the Civil War time, are doing now what many a bloody +revolution failed to accomplish; they have relieved the monotony of the +salt pork and boiled potatoes upon the poor man's table. The clear acid +flavor of the canned vegetable lightens ugly heaviness and adds tonic +gratifications for the lack of which men have let each other's blood." + +As already remarked, those who have plenty of highly flavored meat are apt +to be satisfied by it or to demand stronger flavors (coffee, catsup, +pickles, and tobacco) than those found in fruits and vegetables. They are +also apt to spend so much money on meat that they have none left to buy +what seem to them unimportant items in the diet, and to have a much less +wholesome diet than they might have for the same money. Studies of +expenditures in many families show that a good rule to insure a well +balanced diet is to spend no more money for meat than one does for fruit +and vegetables. Also, it is well to remember that vegetables are usually +cheaper than fruits and that dried ones may largely take the place of +canned or fresh ones. For wholesome and economical living, have fruit of +some kind at least once a day and make the main dish of one meal a +vegetable dish whenever possible. Thick cream soups, souffles, creamed or +scalloped vegetables, are all substantial and appetizing. The way to learn +to like such foods is to keep trying. One may learn contentment with the +proverbial dinner of herbs more easily by realizing that one is building +valuable bricks into the house of diet; and in the present emergency one +may, by selection of fruits and vegetables of high energy value, save less +perishable foods for our soldiers and allies. The knowledge that a banana +is equivalent in calories to a large slice of bread or a small pat of +butter becomes tremendously significant; that an apple, an orange, four +prunes, four dates, or a cup of peas, may not only take the place of bread +but actually add something which the bread does not contain, means that we +may be the gainers from our own sacrifices, without embarrassment thereat. +We shall have reaped a speedy reward for doing our duty. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +FATS AND VITAMINES + + +In the days of the ancient Romans vegetable oils were prized for food and +butter was used for cosmetics. In America today we are asking what is to +become of us if we cannot have butter to eat! Such are the fashions in +food. "June butter" is one of our gastronomic traditions. The sample in +the restaurant may have none of the firm creamy texture and delicate +aromatic flavor of the product of the old spring house; but as long as it +is labeled butter we try to bring our sensations into line with our +imaginations. For the real butter flavor there is no more a substitute +than there is for the aroma of coffee. But these are matters of esthetic +pleasure rather than of nutrition. They depend largely upon habit. Whale +blubber and seal oil are as much appreciated in some quarters as butter is +by us. An American going inland from the Atlantic coast is often surprised +to find that olive oil, instead, of being served on every table, is +exceedingly disliked. + +For the sustenance of the body we must recognize that fat is fat, whatever +its flavor. A calorie from butter yields neither more nor less energy than +a calorie from lard or bacon, olive oil or cottonseed oil. The common food +fats are all very well digested if judiciously used--not in too large +quantities, nor over-heated in cooking, and not "cooked into" things too +much as in pastries, rich sauces, and fried foods. Whether we spread our +bread with butter or beef drippings amounts to the same thing in the long +run; the main point is which we are willing to eat. + +A change is rapidly coming over our food habits. The price of butter has +been soaring beyond our reach, and the market for "butterine," "nut +margarine," "oleomargarine," or whatever the substitute table fat may be +called, has expanded tremendously. It is excellent household economy to +buy milk and a butter substitute rather than cream or butter. In these +substitutes refined vegetable oils such as cottonseed, cocoanut, and +peanut, and oils derived from beef or lard are so combined or treated as +to produce the desired hardness, and churned with milk or milk and butter +to improve texture and flavor. Lard substitutes are similarly made from +one or more of these fats, but are harder in texture and no attempt is +made to give them a butter flavor by churning with milk. All the fats used +are wholesome and efficient sources of energy for the human machine. + +In the absence of butter some other form of fat is desirable in the diet, +because fat is so concentrated a food. There is a limit to the capacity of +the human stomach to hold food. People who live on a diet largely of rice, +which has almost no fat in its make-up, develop characteristically +distended abdomens, because they have to eat such a great quantity of food +to get fuel enough for their day's work. When people are for any reason +put on a milk diet for a considerable time it is customary to put +something into the milk to make it more concentrated, for otherwise they +would drink and drink and then hardly get fuel enough. To give a concrete +illustration--a man's energy requirement for a day may be met by from four +to five quarts of milk (unless he is doing very heavy manual labor), but +it would be much more practical to substitute a loaf of bread, which is +comparatively dry, for one quart of milk, and three ounces of fat (six +tablespoonfuls) for another quart of milk, making the total volume but +little over half what it would be if four quarts of milk were taken. For +people who are engaged in hard physical toil, fat is exceedingly important +for this purpose of gaining in concentration. "Fat is fuel for fighters," +and it is perfectly reasonable to ask those who are not doing much heavy +labor to eat other kinds of food and save fat for those who simply have to +have it to do their work well. In the ordinary mixed diet one can easily +dispense with an ounce of fat (two tablespoonfuls). Each tablespoonful is +equalled in energy by an apple, or a banana, a large egg, two half-inch +slices of bread about three inches square, four dates, four prunes--and it +is no great strain on one's capacity for food to substitute such items for +the fat. + +On account of its concentration, fat is good for transportation; and aside +from its energy value it gives the diet "staying" qualities. Other things +being equal, one feels hungry sooner after a meal without fat than after +one in which it is liberally supplied. People doing manual labor, and +especially out of doors, feel the pangs of hunger more than sedentary +folks and hence need more fat to keep them comfortable. No man can do his +best work when all the time thinking how hungry he is. It behooves us all +then, as good citizens, to recognize the greater need of our soldiers and +sailors and our hard-working laborers for as liberal allowances of fat as +we can make. At the same time, we cannot for our own best health dispense +with fat altogether. We may consider anything up to two ounces apiece a +day legitimate for our own maintenance of efficiency. + +In departing from food customs there is a natural timidity lest the new +food shall in some way be less healthful than the old. Recent scientific +researches have revealed a hitherto unsuspected property in butter, a +discovery which has aroused some concern as to whether we can safely +substitute other fats for it. Young animals fed on a diet of highly +purified food materials in which lard is the only kind of fat may seem +fairly well but do not grow normally, while those fed the same diet in +every respect except that the lard is replaced by butter grow as young +animals should and are more resistant to disease. Study of other food fats +shows that they may be divided into two groups, one with this growth +promoting property and one without it. In general, the vegetable oils do +not have it, while butter and beef oil do; on the other hand, lard does +not have it, while the oil from corn does. Careful analysis of the +situation has shown that a fat-soluble vitamine is present which can in +the laboratory be separated from the fat. This same vitamine is present in +a variety of food materials--in whole milk, in egg yolks, in leaves of +plants--but we have not studied it long enough to know just how much +spinach we can substitute for a tablespoonful of butter so far as the +vitamine is concerned. We must await further investigations. But we may +rest assured that with a fairly liberal amount of milk and some green +vegetables, possibly some beef fat, we need not fear any disastrous +consequences from the substitution of some other fat for butter. Where the +diet is limited and the entire quantity of fat is not very large, it seems +prudent to select oleomargarine made largely from beef oil and, where +circumstances permit its use without the sacrifice of any other dietary +essential, to use butter in the diet of growing children unless they get a +full quart of milk apiece a day. + +Changing our food customs is difficult because it means also changing our +cooking customs. But many dishes can be made with less fat than we are +accustomed to put in or with different kinds from those we have hitherto +preferred. Often the fat from frying is left in the pan to be washed out +and thrown away. If every cook could say to herself, "Every two drops of +fat make a calorie and every calorie counts in the world today," it might +seem more worth while to hold the pan a minute and drain out the fat for +further use. A thousand calories mean a day's life to a baby. It is always +more wholesome to cook foods so that they are not coated with fat, and one +may get brown products in a frying pan without more than a thin film of +fat to keep the food from sticking. It is well to remember in this +connection that the unsalted lard substitutes are more satisfactory than +the saltier fat foods, in which there may be a trace of milk. + +The thought that fat is fuel wherever we find it in food will stiffen our +resolution to take a little pains with the fats which we have been wont to +discard. Anyone can get from the Department of Agriculture suggestions for +the practical use of chicken, mutton, beef, and other kinds of meat fats. +The main points are to free them from flavor, by melting them with milk or +water, possibly using some special absorbent like potato or charcoal too, +and then mixing hard and soft together, just as the oleomargarine-makers +do, to get such a degree of hardness as suits one's purpose. All this +requires time and thought. Let no one dream that the patriotic duties of +the kitchen are trivial. Anything that is worth while costs something; +money, thought, labor--perhaps all three. To salvage kitchen fat may not +be economical in time and labor (though it generally is more so than one +might think), but there is more time and labor than food available today. +So it seems the "bit" of the housekeeper to set a standard for her family +as to the amount of fat she will purchase per week, which is at least +one-fourth lower than their ordinary consumption, and to depend upon +special conservation of what may have gone to waste hitherto for any +increase in this allowance. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +"SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE" + + +"Do come and taste how nice the burnt pig eats!" So cried the miscreant +son of Hati when his attempt to rescue his father's live-stock from utter +destruction resulted (at least according to Lamb) in adding one more +delicacy to the table of civilized man. That the "burnt pig" commended +itself instantly to the taste of other men is attested by the recklessness +with which they ignited their own houses to secure the new sensation +again. + +Not all flavors make an immediate appeal. Many persons can mark the time +when they learned to like olives, or tomatoes, or tea. The taste for some +foods was acquired so early that there is no consciousness of any time +when they were not enjoyed, and the impression prevails that the liking +for such foods is instinctive. Sometimes that is the case, but quite as +often not. Children have to be taught by patient repetition to like most +of the common foods which make the staples of the diet, and likings thus +acquired are as strong as those which seem more natural. + +However taste be accounted for, we have to recognize the fact that food is +chosen for flavor more than for ultimate benefit. It is one thing to say +that oatmeal is more nutritious than bread and coffee; it is quite another +to induce a man to give up the latter for the former! And yet the +distinguishing characteristic of man is that he can subjugate his +immediate impulses for his future benefit, or find a course that will +harmonize the two--take coffee with his oatmeal for instance, or find some +way to flavor it, perhaps with sugar. + +Probably no one flavor is so universally enjoyed as sweetness. "Sweeter +than the honey in the honey comb" is an ancient symbol of appreciation. +When the sugar bowl is empty how many things lose zest! Tea, coffee, +cocoa, breakfast cereals, fruit, might still be acceptable, but cake, pie, +and ice cream are unthinkable without sweetness; the soda fountain, the +bakery, and the candy shop bear further testimony to our love of sweets. +Four million tons of sugar a year for the American people--eighty-five +pounds apiece, nearly a quarter of a pound apiece daily--this is no +inconsiderable amount of flavoring! + +But is not sugar good food? Most assuredly. Three lumps of sugar would +furnish the extra energy needed to walk a mile; a quarter of a pound +represents about one-sixth of a man's daily fuel requirement. But one +baked potato would furnish the same energy as the three lumps of sugar; a +quarter of a pound of cornstarch would supply the same fuel as the quarter +pound of sugar. Nutritionally starch and sugar are interchangeable, the +advantage as far as digestion is concerned being with the starch rather +than the sugar. And yet we put sugar on starch! So much for instinct being +a guide to scientific food combinations! + +The problem of doing without sugar is primarily a problem of flavor--a +problem of finding something else which is sweet. Hence we turn our +cornstarch into glucose (make corn syrup, for example) outside the body +instead of inside it, so that we can taste the sweetness as it goes down. +The main trouble with this kind of sugar is that it is not sweet enough to +satisfy us and we are apt to use too much, thus endangering our digestions +by sheer concentration of what would be, in smaller quantities, most +wholesome. Once more we see that nutrition is largely a question of _how +much_; how much glucose or other sugar our stomachs can stand we find out +by experience; few stomachs can stand when empty the quantity represented +by a lollipop, and yet we frequently see children allowed to suck these +between meals. The same amount of sugar diluted with water, as in a glass +of lemonade, would do less harm; it might be combined with flour in a +cooky with more impunity; better yet, it might be made a part of a whole +meal, taking it in several dishes (sauce, dessert, etc.), or, if we must +have it as candy, at the end of the meal. Used in this way, the advantages +of sugar as a food may be had with relatively little disadvantage. + +Honey, "the distilled sweetness of the flower," commands a price +commensurate with the exquisiteness of its production, but is not quite as +easy of digestion as some other forms of sugar. Because of its intense +sweetness it may be combined with advantage with less sweet syrups, such +as corn syrup. The cook estimates that by measure it will take one and a +half times as much corn syrup as cane sugar to get the customary effects +in sweet dishes. By using one part of honey to three of corn syrup a +sweeter product is obtained, which is free from several of the +disadvantages of honey in cookery. + +Maple syrup and sugar are not only prized for their sweetness, due to the +presence of ordinary cane sugar, but for the delicate "maple" flavor so +difficult to duplicate. Nutritionally a tablespoon of maple sugar is +equivalent in fuel value to about four-fifths of a tablespoon of cane +sugar, while equal volumes of cane molasses, corn syrup, and maple syrup +are interchangeable as fuel, though not of equal sweetening power. + +Molasses is a less one-sided food than cane sugar or corn syrup. The +latter furnish nothing but fuel, and if used too freely not only disturb +digestion but tend to crowd out foods which yield mineral salts. Molasses +is quite rich in calcium, one tablespoonful yielding as much as five +ounces of milk, and is for this reason a better sweet for growing children +than ordinary sugar or corn syrup when the amount of milk which they can +have is limited, or when fruits and vegetables are hard to get. Molasses +ginger snaps make, therefore, an excellent sweet for children, much better +than candy, but of course to be eaten only at meal time. + +The aim of good home cooking should be to please the family with what they +ought to eat. The chef in a big hotel may have to prove the superiority of +his art over that of a rival chef, and vie with him in novelty and +elaboration, but the home cooking may be ever so simple provided the +result is a happy, well-nourished family. A chocolate layer cake that +takes two hours out of a day is no more nourishing than the same materials +served as poached eggs, bread and butter, and a cup of chocolate. It is +worth while to train a family to enjoy the flavor of simply prepared +foods, and to realize that the food is the thing which counts and not the +way it is dressed up. On the other hand, if one has to use a few food +materials over and over, as one must in many places when the money that +can be spent for food is very little, it is by slight changes in their +form and flavor that one keeps them from palling on the appetite. If one +has to use beans every day, it is a good thing to know a dozen different +ways of preparing beans. One may have the plain bean flavor, properly +toned up by a suitable amount of salt; the added flavor of onions, of +tomatoes, of fat pork, of molasses, or a combination of two or three. One +may have plain oatmeal for breakfast (the flavor developed by thorough +cooking, at least three or four hours in a double boiler or over night in +a fireless cooker); oatmeal flavored with apples in a pudding for dinner; +or oatmeal flavored with onions and tomatoes in a soup for supper; the +same food but quite different impressions on the palate. + +Herbs and spices have from time immemorial given flavor to man's diet. +"Leeks and garlic," "anise and cumin," "salt and pepper," "curry and bean +cheese," are built into the very life of a people. The more variety of +natural foods we have the less dependent we are upon such things. Our +modern cooks, confronted in the present crisis with restrictions in the +number of foods which they may use, may find in bay leaves, nutmeg, +allspice, and all their kind, ways of making acceptable the cereals which +make a diet economical, the peas and beans which replace at least a part +of the meat, and dried fruits and vegetables which save transportation of +fresh or canned goods. + +Tea and coffee are both flavors and stimulants. They are used literally by +thousands to give flavor to bread or rice. Dependence on a single flavor +is apt to result in a desire to have it stronger and stronger, and hence +less and less wholesome. This is a good reason for some variety of flavor; +better tea one meal and coffee another than the same one all the time. Too +freely used, and made too strong, tea and coffee may have a bad effect +upon the nervous as well as the digestive system. They should never be +given to children. It is better for adults to get their flavor from +something without such effects. Because the combination of bread and +coffee tastes good, one may be deceived into thinking himself well +nourished on a diet consisting of little else. And yet this is a very +inadequate diet for anybody, and disastrous to the normal development of +children. One must be on guard, then, lest one's desire for flavor be +satisfied without the body's real needs being met. + +The wise cook saves her best flavors for the foods which would be least +acceptable without them and does not add them to foods which are good +enough by themselves. The latter course marks the insidious beginning of +luxury. "Once give your family luxuries and you are lost as far as +satisfying them economically is concerned," remarked a clever housewife. +"Even a rat will not taste bread when bacon is nigh," observed a sage +physiologist. The demand for flavor grows and grows with pampering, till +nothing but humming-birds' tongues and miniature geese floating in a sea +of aspic jelly will satisfy the palate of him who eats solely for +flavor--who never knows the sauce of hunger, or the deliciousness of a +plain crust of bread. We must be on guard, saying, like the little +daughter of a classical professor, "If Scylla doesn't get me Charybdis +will." Flavor we must have, but not too much, not too many kinds at once, +and not applied indiscriminately to foods which need them and foods which +do not. The wise cook uses her arts to secure the proper nourishment of +the family and not for her fame as "a good cook." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME + + +Who does not sigh for the fairy table that comes at the pressing of a +button? It is invariably laden with the most tempting viands, satisfies +beyond words, and disappears when the meal is over, leaving behind no +problem of leftovers or planning for the next meal! No money, no work, no +thought, only sheer enjoyment. Alas, how different is the world of fact! +Even if we have plenty of money we cannot escape from the thought of food +today. There is imperative need for saving of food materials; at best +there will not be enough to go around, and all the world, ourselves +included, will suffer in proportion as we neglect the duty of food +conservation. To be economical in the use of food materials according to +the program of the Food Administration may, probably will, demand the +spending of more money, time, and thought upon food. If we have the money +and time to spend, well and good; but if we have not, how shall we do our +share in sending more "wheat, meat, sugar and fats to our soldiers, +sailors and allies"? + +Thousands of people had to practice strict economy before the war began. +They have no more money than they had then and the cost of food has +increased. Certainly the first duty of everyone is to secure sufficient +nourishment to avoid the undermining of health and strength which is sure +to follow inadequate food. But we must all remember that it is possible to +make a great many changes in diet without altering food value, and that +there are few diets which cannot be so rearranged as to give a better +nutritive return on the money spent than is usually secured by our +haphazard methods of planning meals. Saving of waste is commendable and +will go a long way, but this is a kind of passive service; loyal citizens +ought to be active participants in the food conservation movement, which +is a movement to distribute food in the way which shall promote the +efficiency of our allies and ourselves in this world upheaval. To do this +without increasing the cost of one's diet requires a careful study of the +situation. No one can give precise rules as to how it shall be done, but +perhaps a few suggestions as to the underlying principles will help in +determining a dietary plan which shall be economical and still in line +with the general policy. + +The same nutritive essentials must be supplied whether the cost of the +diet be much or little. A moderately active man needs some 3,000 calories +per day whether his activity be playing golf or working on a farm; whether +his board bill be $3.00 a day or $3.00 a week. In both cases there must be +suitable kinds and amounts of protein-bearing food, of other "building +materials," and those substances which directly or indirectly affect the +smooth running of the body machinery; nevertheless, these two diets, +closely alike in nutritive value, may be very dissimilar in their +superficial appearance. For instance, all the nutritive requirements may +be met in a ration composed of three food materials, as milk, whole wheat +bread, and apples; on the other hand, by one composed of canvas-back duck, +truffles, lettuce, celery, cranberries, white bread and butter, cream, +coffee, and perhaps a dozen other items. We love all the various +sensations that come from the mingling in a meal of food hot and cold, +moist and dry, crisp and soft, sweet and sour, exhibiting the artistic +touch as well as the homelier virtues; it is the sacrifice of pleasure of +the esthetic sort that food economy and to some extent food conservation +entail. + +The first step in food economy (aside from saving of waste) is to +emphasize the use of cereal foods. As much as one-fourth the food money +may be invested in grain products without nutritive disadvantage. But this +is not the last word on the subject, since cereal foods, while cheap, +differ among themselves in cost and somewhat in nutritive value. It is +possible to confine one's choice to some which contribute little besides +fuel to the diet, such as rice and white flour, or to include those which +are rich in other essentials, such as oatmeal. It is difficult to express +briefly this difference in foods in any concrete fashion, but recently a +method of grading or "scoring" foods has been introduced which may help to +make clearer the relationship between nutritive value and general economy. + +We cannot live exclusively upon foods which furnish nothing but fuel, +though fuel is the largest item in the diet and one which in an effort to +economize is apt to fall short; hence a food which furnishes nothing but +fuel will not have as high a "score" as a food which will at the same time +supply certain amounts of other essentials, such as protein, calcium +(lime), iron, and the like. By giving definite values to each of the +dietary essentials taken into consideration and comparing the yield of +these from different foods, we may have such a score as follows:[1] + + Grain Score value + products per pound + + White flour 1,257 + Graham flour 2,150 + Rye flour 1,459 + White bread 1,060 + Graham bread 1,525 + Cornmeal 1,360 + Oatmeal 2,465 + Cream of wheat 1,370 + Hominy 1,147 + Corn flakes 1,090 + + [1] For the method of calculation and further data see "The + Adequacy and Economy of Some City Dietaries" by H.C. Sherman + and L.H. Gillett, published by The New York Association for + Improving the Condition of the Poor, 105 East Twenty-second + Street, New York City, from which these figures are taken. + +By comparing the score with the price per pound we can easily see which +contributes most to the diet as a whole for the money expended. Thus, if +hominy and oatmeal cost the same, the oatmeal is more than twice as cheap +because we not only get a little more fuel from it but we also get +protein, calcium, iron, and phosphorus in considerably larger amounts; +that is, we shall need less of other foods with oatmeal than we shall with +hominy. This does not mean that hominy is not an excellent and a cheap +food, but it does mean that when the strictest economy must be practiced +it pays to buy oatmeal. The task of the housewife is to find out how much +she can make acceptable to her family; how much she can serve as breakfast +food, how much in muffins and bread, how much in soups and puddings. This +economy is strictly in harmony with the principles of food +conservation--saving of wheat, so hard to do without entirely, so easy to +dispense with in part. + +Cornmeal gives as good a nutritive return per pound as cream of wheat, so +that as long as the price of cornmeal is not higher than that of the wheat +product it is both good economy and good patriotism to use it as far as +one can. And, even if cornmeal should be dearer than wheat, one can save +money by increasing the proportion of cereals in the diet so as to be able +to be patriotic without increasing the food bill. + +A second measure which generally makes for food economy is to emphasize +the use of dried fruits and vegetables. The score of some of these foods +almost speaks for itself: + + Dried fruits Score value + and vegetables per pound + + Beans 3,350 + Peas 2,960 + Apples 955 + Dates 1,240 + Figs 1,782 + Prunes 1,135 + Raisins 1,550 + + Fresh fruits + and vegetables + + Beans 472 + Peas 475 + Apples 156 + Bananas 236 + Oranges 228 + Peaches 138 + Pears 228 + + +From the foregoing it is evident that, unless the cost of a pound of fresh +apples is less than one-fifth that of dried ones, the dried will be +cheaper; that if dates and raisins cost the same per pound they are +equally economical to buy. It may be noted, too, that the return on a +pound of dried fruit may be quite as good in its way as the return on a +pound of a grain product, but they will be equally cheap only when they +cost the same per pound in the market. Here, again, there is no +incompatibility between economy and conservation of special foods. Even in +the case of beans is this true, for, while certain kinds are wanted for +the army and navy, there are dozens of kinds of beans; one may count it as +part of one's service to find out where these can be obtained, how they +are best cooked and served. Soy beans commend themselves for their +nutritive value, but how many American housewives have made them a part of +their food program? How many have tried to buy them or asked their dealers +to secure them? + +A third step in the program of economy is the reduction of the amount of +meat consumed. In many American families at least one-third the food money +is spent for meat. That there are adequate substitutes which may be used +to reduce the amount of meat bought has been already shown. Saving of meat +is one of the most important planks in the food conservation program; so +here again there is no inevitable conflict between conservation and +economy. Some meat is desirable for flavor if it can possibly be afforded, +but no economically inclined person should set aside more than one-fourth +to one-fifth of the food money for it. How much one will get depends upon +the kind and cut selected. There is not so much difference in the +nutritive value as there is in the cost, as the following examples of +"meat scores" will show: + + Meat Score value + and fish per pound + + Beef, lean round 1,664 + Beef, medium fat rump 1,221 + Beef, porterhouse steak 1,609 + Veal, lean leg 1,539 + Lamb, medium fat leg 1,320 + Fowl 1,453 + Codfish, salt 1,710 + Codfish, fresh[2] 519 + Salmon, canned 1,074 + + [2] The low score of fresh cod is due chiefly to the absence + of fat and the presence of water. + +The great value of milk in the diet has already been discussed. The +"score" of milk is about the same as that for sugar (milk, 761; sugar, +725); hence, if sugar is ten cents a pound and milk eighteen-cents a quart +(about nine cents per pound), milk is cheaper than sugar. Yet there are +people cutting down their milk supply when the cost is only thirteen or +fourteen cents per quart on the ground that milk is too expensive! The +economical housewife should have no compunctions in spending from +one-fifth to one-fourth of her food money for this almost indispensable +food. Whether the free use of milk will be good food conservation as well +as good economy depends upon the supply. If there is not enough to go +around, babies and the poor should have the first claim upon it and the +rest of the world should try to get along with something less economical. + +A pound of eggs (eight or nine eggs) gives about the same nutritive return +as a pound of medium fat beef, but to be as cheap as beef at thirty cents +a pound, eggs must not cost over forty-five cents a dozen. Eggs must be +counted among the expensive foods, to be used very sparingly indeed in the +economical diet. Nevertheless the use of eggs as a means of saving meat is +a rational food conservation movement, to be encouraged where means +permit. + +The saving of sugar, while a necessary conservation measure, is contrary +to general food economy, since sugar is a comparatively cheap fuel food +and has the great additional value of popularity. Sugar substitutes are +not all as cheap as sugar by any means, but molasses, on account of its +large amount of mineral salts, especially of calcium, has a score value of +2,315 as against 725 for granulated sugar, and may be regarded with favor +by those both economically and patriotically inclined. + +In the case of fats, practical economy consists in paying for fuel value +and not for flavor. The score values for butter, lard, olive oil, and +cottonseed oil are about the same. The cheapest fat is the one whose face +value per pound (or market cost) is the lowest. Fats are not as cheap as +milk and cereals if they cost over ten cents per pound. The best way to +economize is by saving the fat bought with meat, using other fats without +much flavor, and cutting the total fat in the diet to a very small amount, +not over two ounces per person per day. This is also good food +conservation, since fats are almost invaluable in rationing an army, and +those with decidedly agreeable flavor are needed to make a limited diet +palatable. + +No program either of economy or food conservation can cater to individual +likes and dislikes in the same way that an unrestricted choice of food +can. If one does not like cereals it is hard to consume them just to save +money, especially to the extent of ten to fifteen ounces of grain products +in a day. Yet one might as well recognize that in this direction the +lowering of the cost of the diet inevitably lies. If one does not like +corn, it is hard to substitute corn bread for wheat bread. But one might +as well open one's mind to the fact that the only way to put off the day +when there will be no white bread to eat is to begin eating cornmeal now. +Most of us want to eat our cake and keep it too--to enjoy our food and not +pay for our pleasure; to do our duty towards our country and not feel any +personal inconvenience. But the magic table of the fairy tale is not for a +nation at war; food is not going to come at the pressing of a button +during this conflict. If we are to escape bankruptcy and win the war we +must eat to be nourished and not to be entertained. + + + + +APPENDIX + +SOME WAR TIME RECIPES + + +The following recipes illustrate some of the practical applications of the +principles discussed in the foregoing pages. They have been selected from +various publications, a list of which is given below. The numbers +following the titles of the recipes correspond with the numbers of the +publications in this list. + +1. Canned Salmon: Cheaper than Meats and Why, U.S. Department of Commerce, +Bureau of Fisheries, Economic Circular No. 11 + +2. Cheese and its Economical Use in the Home, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 487 + +3. Economical Diet and Cookery in Time of Emergency, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Technical Education Bulletin No. 30 4. Food, Bulletin +of the Life Extension Institute, 25 West 45th Street, New York City + +5. Honey and its Uses in the Home, U. S. Department of Agriculture, +Farmers' Bulletin No. 653 + +6. How to Select Food: Foods Rich in Protein, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 824 + +7. Meat Substitutes, Connecticut Agricultural College, Emergency Food +Series, No. 10 + +8. Ninety Tested, Palatable and Economic Recipes, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Technical Educational Bulletin No. 34 + +9. Recipes of New York City Food Aid Committee, 280 Madison Avenue, New +York City + +10. Recipes in The Farmer's Wife, St. Paul, Minnesota, September, 1917 + +11. Some Sugar Saving Sweets for Every Day, Teachers College, Columbia +University, Teachers College Record, November, 1917 + +12. War Economy in Food, Bulletin of the United States Food Administration + +13. Waste of Meat in the Home, Cornell Reading Course for the Farm Home, +Lesson 109 + + + + +BREAD AND MUFFINS + + + +Corn Meal and Wheat Bread (9) + + Corn meal, 1 cup + Wheat flour, 2 cups + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup, 1 tablespoon + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Cold water, 1-1/4 cups + Lukewarm water, 1/4 cup + Yeast, 1 cake + +Pour cold water gradually over corn meal and salt. Cook over water for 20 +minutes. Add fat and syrup. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add yeast +which has been softened in the lukewarm water. Add flour gradually, +stirring or kneading thoroughly after each addition of flour. Knead +lightly for 10 or 15 minutes. Shape into a loaf. Let rise until double in +bulk. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380Ā°) for about an hour. (The amount of +corn meal may be reduced if one desires a loaf with the characteristics of +wheat bread.) + + + +Corn Meal and Rye Bread (9) + + Lukewarm water, 2 cups + Yeast, 1 cake + Salt, 1/2 tablespoon + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Rye flour, 1 cup + Corn meal, 1 cup + Flour, 3 cups + +Soften yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix thoroughly. +Let rise, shape, let rise again and bake. + + + +Sour Milk Corn Bread (8) + + Corn meal, 1 pint + Soda, 3/4 teaspoon + Baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon + Sour milk, 1 pint + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Lard (melted), 1 1/2 tablespoons + +Slightly beat the egg, add milk, salt, and soda. Stir in the meal. Beat +well. Add melted lard and baking powder. Bake in hot greased pan. Cut in +squares and serve. Do not have batter too stiff. + + + +Eggless Corn Muffins (8) + + Corn meal, 1 cup + Pastry flour (sifted), 1/2 cup + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Melted butter, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Milk, 1 cup + +Mix dry ingredients and add milk and melted butter. Put in greased muffin +pan and bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +Oat Bread (4) + + Boiling water, 2 cups + Salt, 1/2 tablespoon + 1/2 yeast cake, dissolved in 1/2 cup lukewarm water + Rolled oats (dry), 1 cup + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Flour, 4-1/2 cups + +Add boiling water to the rolled oats, stir well and let stand for one +hour. Add molasses, salt, fat, dissolved yeast cake, and flour; let the +dough rise to double its bulk, beat well, and turn into greased bread +pans, let rise the second time, and bake about one hour in a moderate +oven. + + + +Oatmeal Muffins (8) + + Cooked oatmeal, 1 cup + Flour, 1-1/2 cups + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Baking powder, 4 teaspoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Milk, 1/2 cup + Egg, 1 + Melted butterine, 2 tablespoons + +Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the egg well +beaten and one-half the milk. Mix the remainder of the milk with the +cereal, and beat in thoroughly. Then add the butter. Bake in buttered +muffin or gem tins about 30 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +War Time Boston Brown Bread + + Rye meal, 1 cup + Corn meal, 1 cup + Finely ground oatmeal, 1 cup + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Soda, 3/4 teaspoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Molasses, 1 cup + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + +Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until well +mixed, turn into a well-greased mold, and steam three and one-half hours. +The cover should be greased before being placed on mold. The mold should +never be filled more than two-thirds full. A one-pound baking powder box +makes the most attractive shaped loaf for steaming; place mold on a trivet +in kettle containing boiling water, allowing water to come half-way up +around mold; cover closely and steam, adding as needed more boiling water. +One cup chopped peanuts and 1 cup of cut dates may be added. + + + +Rice Bread (10) + + Milk, 1/2 cup + Sugar, 6 tablespoons + Fat, 4 tablespoons + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Compressed yeast, 1/2 cake, softened in 1/4 cup liquid + Boiled rice, 7 cups + Flour, 8 cups + +This proportion makes two loaves of bread. + +Scald the milk with sugar, salt, and fat. Let cool until lukewarm and pour +over the boiled rice. Add yeast which has been softened in one-quarter +cupful warm water. Stir in flour and knead. Let rise until double its +bulk. Knead again and put into pans. Let rise until light and bake 50 +minutes to one hour in a moderate oven. + +_The rice should be boiled in a large quantity of boiling water_, in +order to insure a dry rice. At least eight or ten times as much water as +rice should be used. + + + +Eggless Rye Muffins (8) + + Rye flour, 2 cups + Baking powder, 4 teaspoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Sugar, 4 teaspoons + Milk, 1 cup + Melted butter or other fat, 1 tablespoon + +Mix and sift the dry ingredients; add the milk and melted fat. Mix +quickly, do not beat. Bake in greased muffin pans 20 minutes in a hot +oven. + + + +Rye Corn Meal Muffins (9) + + Corn meal, 1/2 cup + Rye flour, 1 cup + Baking powder, 3 teaspoons + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Melted butter, 1 tablespoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Milk, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + +Mix and sift dry ingredients, beat egg, add to it milk and molasses, then +stir liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Do not beat. Place in +well-greased muffin tins and bake in moderate oven 25 to 30 minutes. + + + +Rye Rolls (9) + + Milk, 1 cup + Water, 1 cup + Fat, 3 tablespoons + Sugar, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 2 teaspoons + Yeast cakes, 2 + Water, 6 tablespoons + Rye flour, 4 cups + White flour, 4 cups + +Scald the milk with the salt, sugar, and fat. Soften the yeast in the six +tablespoonfuls of water. + +Cool the milk by adding the rest of the water cold, stir in the yeast and +flour, and knead. Let rise until double in bulk. Knead again and shape +into rolls. Let rise until very light and bake. + + + + +CAKE AND COOKIES + + + +Apple Sauce Cake (4) + + Sugar, 1 cup + Butter, 2 tablespoons + Apple sauce, 1 cup + Flour, 2 cups + Raisins, 2/3 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/2 teaspoon + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + +Sift together the soda, spices, salt, and flour. Cream the butter, add +sugar, apple sauce, dry ingredients, and seeded raisins. Bake in a +moderate oven. + + + +Buckwheat Cookies (8) + + Butterine, 1/2 cup + Sugar, 1 cup + Eggs, 2 + Clove, 1/2 teaspoon + Buckwheat, 1 3/4 cups + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + +Beat the eggs, add the sugar and melted butter, and beat until thoroughly +mixed. Sift the buckwheat, spices, and salt together and add very slowly. +Mix well; roll on a floured board one-eighth to one-sixteenth inch thick. +Cut the cookies and bake on a greased baking sheet in a moderate oven +about 10 minutes. + + + +Honey Bran Cookies (5) + + Bran, 3 cups + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/4 teaspoon + Honey, 1/2 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Melted butter, 1/2 cup + + +Soft Honey Cake (5) + + Butter, 1/2 cup + Honey, 1 cup + Egg, 1 + Sour milk, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Flour, 4 cups + +Rub the butter and honey together; add the egg well beaten, then the sour +milk and the flour sifted with the soda and spices. Bake in a shallow pan. + + + +Molasses Cakes (4) + + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Fat, 1/2 cup + Molasses, 1 cup + Ginger, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Flour, 2 1/2 cups + Soda, 2 teaspoons + Hot water, 1 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + +Sift together the salt, sugar, flour, soda, and spices. Melt butter in hot +water, add molasses, egg well beaten, and dry ingredients. Mix well. Bake +in small cup cake tins in a moderate oven for about 25 minutes. + + + +Molasses Cookies (11) + + Flour, 2-3/4 cups + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Ginger, 1 tablespoon + Molasses, 1 cup + Hot water, 1 tablespoon + Hardened vegetable fat, 1/4 cup + +Sift together the flour, salt, soda, and ginger. Melt fat; add hot water +and molasses; stir this liquid gradually into the dry ingredients. Chill. +Roll on floured board to one-eighth inch thickness. Cut. Bake about 10 +minutes in a moderate oven (360-380Ā° F.). + + + +Nut Molasses Bars (9) + + Oleomargarine, 1/4 cup + Hardened vegetable fat, 1/4 cup + Boiling water, 1/4 cup + Brown sugar, 1/2 cup + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Flour, 3-2/3 cups + Ginger, 1/3 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/8 teaspoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Cocoanut, 1/2 cup + English walnuts, 1/2 cup + +Pour boiling water over fat; add sugar and molasses; add flour, soda, +spices, and salt sifted together. Chill. Roll one-eighth inch thick. Cut +in strips about three and a half by one inch. Sprinkle with cocoanut and +English walnuts cut in small pieces. + +Bake about 10 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +Oatmeal Cookies (4) + + Egg, 1 + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Water, 1/4 cup + Flour, 2 cups + Fine oatmeal, 1/2 cup + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Raisins, 1 cup + Melted fat, 5 tablespoons + +Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the oatmeal. Beat +the egg add sugar, water, and milk, dry ingredients mixed together, +raisins, and melted fat. Drop from spoon on greased baking sheet and bake +in moderate oven. + + + +Oatmeal Macaroons (12) + + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup, 3/8 cup + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Egg, 1 + Almond extract if desired, 2 teaspoons + Oatmeal, 1 1/2 cups + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon + Flour, 1-1/2 tablespoons + +Combine the melted fat and sugar and syrup, add the beaten egg and stir in +the other ingredients. Drop from a teaspoon on greased baking sheets or +pans and bake in a moderate oven about 15 minutes. + + + +Potato Drop Cookies (13) + + Hot mashed potatoes, 1-1/2 cups + Sugar, 1-1/4 cups + Beef or mutton fat, 1 cup + Flour, 1-3/4 cups + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Cinnamon, 1 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/2 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon + Raisins, chopped, 1/2 cup + Nuts, chopped, 1/4 cup + +Combine the ingredients in the order given and drop the mixture by +spoonfuls on a slightly greased tin. Bake the cookies in a moderate oven. + + + +Spice Cake (9) + + Hardened vegetable fat, 3-1/2 tablespoons + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + Corn syrup, 1/4 cup + Milk, 1/4 cup + Flour, 1 cup (plus 1-1/2 tablespoons) + Baking powder, 1-1/4 teaspoons + Chopped citron, 2 tablespoons + Raisins, cut in half, 1/2 cup + Cinnamon, 3/4 teaspoon + Clove, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon + +Cream fat; add sugar gradually, syrup, egg well beaten; mix and sift dry +ingredients; add alternately with milk to first mixture. Add raisins +(which have been rolled in a little of the flour), mixing them through the +cake thoroughly. + +Bake about 30 minutes in a moderate oven (about 380Ā° F.). + + + + +JAMS AND SANDWICH FILLINGS + + + +Banana and Nut Paste for Sandwiches (11) + + Banana, 1 + Shelled peanuts, 1/4 cup + +Mix the banana with the shelled peanuts, which have been crushed. Salt to +taste. Use as a filling for sandwiches. + + + +Carrot Marmalade (3) + + Carrots, 3 pounds + Sugar, 3 pounds + Lemon, 1 (juice and grated rind) + Oranges, 2 (juice and grated rind) + +Wash, scrape, and steam carrots until soft; chop fine and mix with fruit +and sugar. Cook gently one hour. + + + +Date and Cranberry Marmalade (3) + + Cranberries, 1 quart + Dates, stoned, 1 pound + Water, 1 pint + Brown sugar, 2 cups + +Simmer together for 20 minutes cranberries, dates, and water; put through +a sieve; add sugar and cook 15 minutes longer. + + + +Dried Apricot Conserve (11) + + Dried apricots, 1/2 pound (1-2/3 cups) + Cold water, 2 cups + Raisins, 1 cup + Juice of 1 lemon + Whole orange, 1 + Nuts, 1/2 cup + Corn syrup (light), 1 cup + +Soak apricots over night in cold water. When soaked add raisins, lemon +juice, orange sliced very thin, with slices cut in small pieces, and corn +syrup. Bring to boiling point and simmer for about one and one-quarter +hours. Add nuts 15 minutes before taking from fire. + + + +Fruit and Peanut Butter (for Sandwiches) (11) + + Dates, 1/4 cup + Figs, 1/4 cup + Peanut butter, 1/2 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Lemon juice, 1-1/2 tablespoons + Raisins, 1/4 cup + Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons + +Wash figs, raisins, and dates, and put through food chopper. Add salt, +peanut butter, lemon juice, and corn syrup, and mix well. + + + +Plum Conserve (without sugar) (11) + + + Pitted plums, 1 pound (2 dozen plums) + Raisins, 1/3 pound + Cold water, 1/2 cup + Walnuts, 1/8 pound (1/4 cup) + Oranges, 2 + Corn syrup, 1/3 cup + +Wash and cut plums in pieces: add chopped raisins, orange pulp and peel, +cut very fine; corn syrup and water; boil until it is of the consistency +of marmalade (about one and one-half hours of slow cooking). Add walnuts +five minutes before removing from fire. + + + + +SUBSTANTIAL HOT DISHES + + + +Baked Barley (4) + + Barley, 1/2 cup + Boiling water, 3 cups + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Left over gravy, 3/4 cup + +Soak barley over night. Drain. Cook in boiling salted water until tender. +Drain. Add left over gravy and bake for 20 minutes in a moderate oven. If +one has a meat bone, or left over bits of meat, these may be boiled with +the barley to give it flavor. + + + +Beef and Bean Stew (6) + + Beef, lower round, 1 pound + Red kidney beans, 1 cup + Onion, 1 + Canned tomatoes, 1 cup, or 2 or 3 fresh tomatoes + Salt pork, 2 ounces + +Wash the beans and soak them over night. Cut the pork into small pieces +and try out the fat. Cut the beef into small pieces and brown it in the +pork fat, then add the vegetables with water enough to cover. Cook just +below the boiling point for about three hours. + + + +Cheese Fondue (2) + + Milk (hot), 1-1/3 cups + Bread crumbs, 1-1/3 cups + Butter, 1 tablespoon + Eggs, 4 + Cheese, 1/3 pound (1-1/3 cups grated or 1 cup cut in pieces) + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + +Mix the water, bread crumbs, salt, and cheese; add the yolks thoroughly +beaten; into this mixture cut and fold the whites of eggs beaten until +stiff. Pour into a buttered dish and cook 30 minutes in a moderate oven. +Serve at once. + + + +Corned Beef Hash with Vegetables (4) + + Corned beef (cold, left over), 1-1/2 cups + Dice potatoes (cooked), 2-1/4 cups + Turnips (cooked), 1 cup + Onion, chopped fine, 1 small + Carrots (cooked), 1/2 cup + Water, 3/4 cup + Fat, 3 tablespoons + +Cut the meat into small pieces. Add cooked vegetables cut into small +cubes, onion and water. Put fat into hot frying pan, add hash and cook for +about 20 minutes, allowing the hash to brown. Other left over meat may be +added to corned beef, or used instead of corned beef. + + + +Corn Meal Scrapple (3) + + Shin of beef, 2 pounds + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Onion, 1 medium + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + Cold water, 2 quarts + Corn meal, 1 cup + +Cook onion thinly sliced in beef marrow or suet. Add to water with meat +and bone and cook until meat is tender. Let cool, skim off fat, and remove +bone. To liquid remaining, add enough water to make one quart. Add corn +meal and salt and cook one hour. Turn into a mold, cool, cut in slices, +and fry in pork fat until brown. Serve with or without gravy. + + + +Corn Chowder (4) + + Corn, 1/4 can + Salt pork, 1-1/2 inch cube + Potato cut in slices, 1 medium + Milk, 2 cups + Boiling water, 1-1/2 cups + Butter, 2 tablespoons + Sliced onion, 1/8 + Sugar, 1/4 teaspoon + Salt and pepper + +Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. Add the onion and cook for +about five minutes. Strain the fat into a stew pan. Cook the potatoes for +about five minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, and add the potatoes to +the fat. Add the boiling water and cook until the potatoes are soft. Then +add corn and milk and heat to the boiling point. Add the salt, pepper, +sugar, and butter. Serve immediately after adding butter. + + + +Cottage Cheese and Nut Loaf (12) + + Cottage cheese, 1 cup + Nut meats (use those locally grown), 1 cup + Stale bread crumbs, 1 cup + Juice of 1/2 lemon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/4 teaspoon + Chopped onion, 2 tablespoons + Oleomargarine, meat drippings or vegetable oils, 1 tablespoon + +Mix the cheese, ground nuts, crumbs, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Cook +the onion in the fat and a little water until tender. Add to the first +mixture the onion and sufficient water or meat stock to moisten. Mix well, +pour into a baking dish, and brown in the oven. + + + +Dried Fish Chowder (7) + + Salt fish, 1/2 pound + Potatoes, cut in small pieces, 4 cups + Salt pork, 2 ounces + Small onion, chopped, 1 + Skim milk, 4 cups + Crackers, 4 ounces + +Salt codfish, smoked halibut, or other dried fish may be used in this +chowder. Pick over and shred the fish, holding it under lukewarm water. +Let it soak while the other ingredients of the dish are being prepared. +Cut the pork into small pieces and fry it with the onion until both are a +delicate brown; add the potatoes, cover with water, and cook until the +potatoes are soft. Add the milk and fish and reheat. Salt, if necessary. +It is well to allow the crackers to soak in the milk while the potatoes +are being cooked, then remove them, and finally add to the chowder just +before serving. + + + +Gevech (Roumanian Recipe) (9) + + Shredded cabbage, 1-1/4 cups + Chopped onion, 1/4 cup + Rice, 1/4 cup + Diced potatoes, 3/4 cup + 1/2 green pepper cut into strips + Fish, 3/4 pound + Canned tomato, 3/4 cup + Water, 3 tablespoons + Salt, 3/4 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/4 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + +Parboil cabbage, onion, rice, potatoes, and green pepper together in +salted water for 20 minutes. Drain. Clean fish, cut into small pieces, and +mix with parboiled vegetables, canned tomatoes, water, and seasonings. +Bake in a moderate oven for about 40 minutes. Baste occasionally while +cooking. Serve with a garnish of sliced lemon. + + + +Kidney Bean Stew (3) + + Kidney beans, 1 cup + Onion, 1 small + Rice, 2 tablespoons + Canned tomatoes, 2 cups + Fat or drippings, 2 tablespoons + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt and pepper to taste + +Soak beans over night in cold water to cover. In the morning place beans +over fire, adding water to cover if necessary. Add onion, rice and +tomatoes and cook slowly until beans are soft. If too thick, add water. +Mix flour and fat, and use to thicken stew. + + + +Baked Oatmeal with Cheese (9) + + Cooked oatmeal, 4 cups + Grated cheese, 1 cup + Salt and pepper + Soft bread crumbs, 1/4 cup + Fat, 1 teaspoon + +Put into an oiled baking dish a layer of left over oatmeal, then a +sprinkling of grated cheese, pepper and salt, another layer of oatmeal, +then cheese and seasonings; continue until the dish is full. Melt the fat +and mix with this the bread crumbs. Sprinkle over the top of the dish. +Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs are golden brown. + + + +Green Pea Loaf with White Sauce (9) + + Dried green peas, 1 cup + Cold water, 4 cups + Boiling water, 2 quarts + Soft, stale bread crumbs, 1-1/2 cups + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/2 teaspoon + Grated onion, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Fat, 3 tablespoons + +Soak peas in cold water over night. Cook in boiling water until soft. Rub +through a sieve. To one cup of this pea pulp add bread crumbs, milk, +seasoning, egg (slightly beaten), and melted fat. Turn mixture into a +small, oiled bread pan. Set pan into a second pan, containing water. Bake +mixture 40 minutes or until firm. Remove loaf from pan. Serve with white +sauce. One-half cup of cheese may be added to one and one-half cups of the +sauce. + + + +Mock Sausage (8) + + Lima beans, dried, 1/2 cup + Bread crumbs, 1/3 cup + Butter, 3 tablespoons + Egg, 1 + Pepper, few grains + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Sage, 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon + +Pick over and wash beans, cover with water, and let soak over night. +Drain; cook in boiling salted water until tender, about one and one-half +hours. Force through a strainer, add remaining ingredients. Shape into +form of sausages, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again. SautĆ© in fat +until brown. It requires about two-thirds cup crumbs and one-half egg for +dipping sausage. May be garnished with fried apples. + + + +Baked Soy or Togo Beans (6) + +Soy beans, known in the retail market as togo beans, resemble navy beans +in some ways. They contain, however, a considerable amount of fat. For +this reason neither pork nor other fat is used in cooking them unless it +is wanted for flavor. They are considerably richer in protein also. + +Wash and pick over one quart of soy beans. Cover with boiling water, boil +for 10 minutes, and soak over night in the same water. In the morning pour +off and save the water. Pour cold water over the beans and rub them +between the hands to remove the skins, which will float off in the water. +Removing the skins in this way takes only two or three minutes and greatly +improves the quality of the dish. If a few skins are left on, they will do +no harm, unless the dish is being prepared for a person of poor digestion. +Drain the beans, pour over them the water in which they were soaked, and +cook until tender at a temperature just below the boiling point. Pour off +the water, put the beans into a bean pot, cover with cold water, add one +and one-half tablespoonfuls of salt, and bake four or five hours in a +covered dish. Remove the cover and bake one hour more. + + + +Peanut Loaf (10) + + Chopped peanuts, 1 cup + Bread crumbs, 2 cups + Egg, 1 + Milk, 1 cup + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Paprika, 1/4 teaspoon + Melted fat, 1 tablespoon + +Mix dry ingredients, add beaten egg and milk. Put into a greased pan, pour +the melted fat on top, bake. Turn on a hot platter and serve with sauce. + + +Sauce for Loaf + + Hot water, 1 cup + Beef cube, 1 + Juice 1 lemon + Fat, 2 tablespoons + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/8 teaspoon + Few grains nutmeg + +Melt fat, add flour with seasoning, add hot water in which beef cube has +been dissolved. Just before serving add lemon juice. + +This nut loaf with its accompanying sauce is a highly nutritious dish and +is excellent for lunch or supper. Serve no meat or potatoes with it. + + + +Peanut Butter Bean Loaf (10) + + Peanut butter, 1/2 cup + Cooked beans, 1 cup + Soft bread crumbs (toasted), 1 cup + Milk, 1 cup + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/2 teaspoon + +The beans should be soaked over night and cooked in fresh water until +tender. Press through a sieve, add other ingredients, mix well. Shape into +a loaf, place in pan, and bake about two hours, basting with melted fat +and hot water. + + + +Peanut Butter Cream Soup (10) + + Milk, 1 quart + Onion (grated), 1 small + Flour, 1 tablespoon + Melted fat, 1 tablespoon + Peanut butter, 1 cup + Bay leaf, 1 + Celery (chopped) 3 stalks + Celery salt, 1 saltspoon + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + A little white pepper + Dash of paprika + +Heat milk in a double boiler, add peanut butter, onion, bay leaf, chopped +celery, and other seasoning. While the milk is heating, melt fat in a +separate sauce pan, stirring in flour as for cream sauce. When smooth add +the hot milk, after straining through a sieve. Serve at once with croutons +or tiny squares of bread browned till crisp. + + + +Peanut Fondue (8) + + Peanuts, shelled, 1 cup + Bread crumbs (soft), 1 cup + Milk, 1-2/3 cups + Egg, 1 + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Cayenne + +Grind peanuts in a meat grinder. Mix all ingredients except the white of +the egg. Beat the egg white stiff and fold in. Turn into a buttered +pudding dish and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 35 minutes. + + + +Peanut Soup (10) + + Blanched shelled peanuts, 2 cups + Onion, 1/4 cup + Celery, 1/4 cup + Carrot, 1/4 cup + Water, 2-1/2 cups + Fat, 1/4 cup + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/2 teaspoon + Milk, 2 cups + +Chop and crush the nuts until very fine; add the vegetables and water; +simmer 20 minutes. Make a white sauce of the other ingredients, mix the +two mixtures thoroughly and serve. + + + +Potato Soup with Carrots (4) + + Potatoes, 3 medium + Water, 2 cups + Flour, 4 tablespoons + Soup greens + Onion, 2 slices + Sprigs of parsley + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Carrot, 1 + Fat, 1-1/2 tablespoons + Salt and pepper + Stalk of celery + +Wash and pare potatoes. Cook in boiling salted water until they are soft. +Rub through colander. Use water in which potatoes were cooked to make up +the two cups of water for the soup. Cook carrot cut in cubes in boiling +water until soft; drain. Scald milk with onion, celery, and parsley. Add +milk and water to potatoes. Melt fat in sauce pan, add flour, and cook for +three minutes. Slowly add soup, stirring constantly. Boil for one minute, +season with salt and pepper. Add cubes of carrots and serve. + + + +Salmon en Casserole (1) + +Cook one cup of rice. When cold line baking dish. Take one can of salmon +and flake. Beat two eggs, one-third cup of milk, one tablespoon of butter, +pinch of salt, dash of paprika. Stir into the salmon lightly, cover +lightly with rice. Steam one hour, serve with white sauce. (This may also +be made with barley instead of rice.) + + + +Scalloped Salmon (1) + + Salmon, 1 can + Egg, 1 + Milk, 1 pint + Flour, 2 rounding tablespoons + Butter, 1-1/2 tablespoons + +Put the milk on stove in double boiler, keeping out one-half cup. Mix +butter and flour to a smooth paste, and add the egg well beaten, then the +one-half cup of cold milk. Mix well and then stir into the milk, which +should be scalding. Stir until smooth and thick like gravy. Season with +salt and pepper and set aside to cool. Butter a baking dish and fill with +alternate layers of flaked salmon and the cream dressing. The top layer +should be of the dressing. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and bake one-half +hour in moderate oven. + + + +Salmon Loaf (1) + + Salmon, 1 small can + Egg, 1 + Cracker crumbs, 1 cup + Sweet milk, 2 tablespoons + Paprika + Nutmeg + Salt + +Remove bones from salmon; break into small pieces, add well beaten egg, +seasoning, and cracker crumbs; bake in a well buttered dish for 15 +minutes; serve hot for lunch. + + + +Tamale Pie (12) + + Corn meal, 2 cups + Salt, 2 1/2 teaspoons + Boiling water, 6 cups + Onion, 1 + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Hamburger steak, 1 pound + Tomatoes, 2 cups + Cayenne pepper, 1/2 teaspoon, + or + Chopped sweet pepper, 1 small + Salt, 1 teaspoon + +Make a mush by stirring the corn meal and one and one-half teaspoons salt +into boiling water. Cook in a double boiler or over water for 45 minutes. +Brown the onion in the fat, add the Hamburger steak, and stir until the +red color disappears. Add the tomatoes, pepper, and salt. Grease a +baking-dish, put in a layer of corn meal mush, add the seasoned meat, and +cover with mush. Bake 30 minutes. Serves six. + + + +Turkish Pilaf (3) + + Washed rice, 1 cup + Raw lean beef or lamb, 1 pound + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Boiling water, 2 cups + Small onion or garlic, 2 cloves + Tomatoes, 2 cups + Olive oil or any fat, 2 tablespoons + +Fry onion cut in small pieces or the garlic in the fat until slightly +brown; add rice, seasonings, water, tomatoes, meat, and cook in a covered +dish until the rice is soft. The meat may be omitted, the rice cooked in +the tomatoes and water, and the whole covered with grated cheese and baked +until cheese is melted. + + + +Vegetable Stew + + Beef, 1/2 pound + Mutton, 1/2 pound + Carrots, diced, 1/2 cup + Potatoes, diced, 2 cups + Tomatoes, canned, 3/4 cup + Fat, 2 tablespoons + Carrot, 1 whole + Onion, sliced, 3 tablespoons + Cabbage, chopped, 1 cup + Flour, 1/4 cup + Bay leaf, 1/2 leaf + Cloves, 6 + Peppercorns, 6 + Parsley, chopped, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 2 teaspoons + Thyme, 1 sprig + Water, 7 cups + +Cut meat in small pieces, brown with onion in fat, add water, one carrot +in which cloves have been imbedded, and other vegetables. Tie bay leaf, +thyme, and peppercorns together in a piece of cheesecloth and cook with +stew about two hours (till vegetables are done). Remove bag of seasonings, +thicken stew with flour. Add more salt if needed. + + + + +PUDDINGS + + + +Apricot Tapioca Pudding (4) + + Apricots, 6 + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Pearl tapioca, 1 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Boiling water, 3 cups + +Cover the tapioca with cold water and soak for one hour. Drain off the +cold water, add the boiling water and salt, and cook over water (in a +double boiler if you have one) until the tapioca is transparent, and no +hard center portion remains. This will require about 30 minutes. Place the +apricots in a buttered baking dish. Add sugar to the tapioca, pour this +over the apricots, add apricot juice, and bake in a moderate oven for +about 20 minutes. Cool and serve. If dried apricots are to be used, they +should be soaked over night or several hours in cold water sufficient to +cover them. Cook in the water in which they have soaked until they are +tender. + + + +Cereal Pudding (8) + + Left over cereal, 3-1/2 cups + Apple sauce, 1/2 cup or + Apple, 1 + Sugar, 1 tablespoon + Butter, 1 tablespoon + Bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons + +Put a layer of cereal in the bottom of a buttered baking dish, then a +layer of apples or sauce, then sugar if the sauce has not been sweetened. +Then put in another layer of cereal, cover with buttered crumbs. Bake 30 +minutes if it has apple sauce in it, one hour if raw apples are used. +Serve with cream. + + + +Cereal Date Pudding (11) + + Cereal (half corn meal and half farina), 3/4 cup + Boiling water, 3 cups + Salt, 3/4 teaspoon + Chopped dates, 1 cup + Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup (light), 1/2 cup + Egg, 1 + +Stir the cereal mixture gradually into the boiling water, to which the +salt has been added. Cook directly over the flame for about five minutes, +stirring constantly, and then cook over water for one and one-half hours. +Add oleomargarine, syrup, egg, well beaten, and chopped dates. Turn into a +greased baking dish and bake for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven +(360-390Ā° F.). + + + +Chocolate Bread Pudding (11) + + Bread, broken in small pieces, 2 1/2 cups + Corn syrup (dark), 1/2 cup + Brown sugar, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Chocolate, 2 squares + Milk, 1 1/2 cups + Hot water, 1 1/2 cups + Vanilla, 3/4 teaspoon + +Soak bread in milk; add syrup, brown sugar, egg, well beaten, and salt. +Melt chocolate in water; add gradually to bread mixture. Add vanilla. Bake +in custard cups, set in hot water, in a moderate oven. + + + +Eggless Steamed Pudding (11) + + Flour, 1 2/3 cups + Soda, 1/2 teaspoon + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/4 teaspoon + Allspice, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Hardened vegetable fat, 3 tablespoons + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Raisins (seeded and cut in pieces), 1 cup + +Sift together the flour, soda, salt, and spices; add the raisins. To milk +add molasses and melted fat; add liquid mixture gradually to dry +ingredients. Stir thoroughly. Turn into greased molds, filling them a +little over half full; cover and steam for about two and one-half hours. +Serve with pudding sauce or milk. (Baking powder cans are satisfactory +molds for steamed puddings.) + + + +Honey Pudding (5) + + Honey, 1/2 cup + Bread crumbs, 6 ounces + Milk, 1/2 cup + Rind of half a lemon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Eggs, 2 + Butter, 2 tablespoons + +Mix the honey and the bread crumbs and add the milk, seasonings, and yolks +of the eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly and then add the butter and the +whites of the eggs well beaten. Steam for about two hours in a pudding +mold which is not more than three-quarters full. + + + +Indian Pudding (3) + + Milk, 1 quart + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Corn meal, 1/3 cup + Ginger, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Cold milk, 1 cup + +Pour milk, scalded, over meal, and cook 20 minutes; add salt, ginger, and +molasses. Cook slowly in a buttered baking dish two hours. When half done, +add the cold milk and finish cooking. + + + +Baked Indian and Apple Pudding (8) + + Corn meal, 1/4 cup + Milk, 2 cups + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Molasses, 1/4 cup + Apple, 1 + +Sift corn meal slowly into the scalded milk, stirring constantly. Cook in +double boiler 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt, ginger, and +molasses. Put into greased baking dish and bake one hour in a slow oven, +stirring occasionally. Slice apple and stir into pudding. Bake until apple +is tender. + + + +Prune Brown Betty (11) + + Cooked prunes, stoned and cut into halves, 2-1/2 cups + Bread crumbs (dry), 1/2 cup + Corn syrup (dark), 1/4 cup + Lemon juice, 3 tablespoons + Grated rind of 1/4 lemon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon + Prune juice, 1/2 cup + +Mix together heated prune juice, fat, salt, corn syrup, lemon juice, lemon +rind, and cinnamon. Moisten bread crumbs with part of this mixture. Into a +greased baking dish put alternate layers of bread crumbs and prunes, +pouring part of liquid mixture over each layer of prunes. Bake in a +moderate oven about 45 minutes. + + + +Rice Pudding (11) + + Rice, 1/4 cup + Milk, 3/4 cup + Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Raisins, 3/4 cup + +Cook the rice in boiling salted water, until soft. Pour off water, add +milk, syrup, nutmeg, and raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (370-380Ā° F.) +for 40 minutes. + + + +Spiced Pudding (11) + + Browned crusts of bread, 1 cup + Scalded milk, 2 cups + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Raisins, 1/2 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/4 teaspoon + +Soak the crusts in the milk until soft. Add molasses, salt, spices, and +raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380Ā° F.), stirring occasionally at +first. Serve with milk or cream. + + + + + * * * * * + +The following pages contain advertisements of books by the same author or +on kindred subjects. + + + +FEEDING THE FAMILY + +BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE + +Illustrated, $2.10 + + +This is a clear and concise account in simple every-day terms of the ways +in which modern knowledge of the science of nutrition may be applied in +ordinary life. The food needs of the different members of the typical +family group--men, women, infants, children of various ages--are discussed +in separate chapters, and many concrete illustrations in the form of food +plans and dietaries are included. The problems of the housewife in trying +to reconcile the needs of different ages and tastes at the same table are +also taken up, as are the cost of food and the construction of menus. A +final chapter deals with feeding the sick. + +"The volume is so simply and entertainingly written that it cannot but be +enjoyed by anyone interested in the planning or preparation of household +meals, and it would be difficult to imagine a more helpful book to put +into the hands of a reader desiring information along such +lines."--_Trained Nurse_. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +A LABORATORY HAND-BOOK FOR DIETETICS + +BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE, PH.D. + +Assistant Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia +University + +Cloth, 8vo, $1.10 + + +Investigations into the quantitative requirements of the human body have +progressed so far as to make dietetics to a certain extent an exact +science, and to emphasize the importance of a quantitative study of food +materials. This little book explains the problems involved in the +calculation of food values and food requirements, and the construction of +dietaries, and furnishes reference tables which will minimize the labor +involved in such work without limiting dietary study to a few food +materials. + +Only brief statements of the conditions affecting food requirements have +been made, the reader being referred to general textbooks on the subject +of nutrition for fuller information, but such data have been included as +seem most useful in determining the amount of food for any normal +individual under varying conditions of age and activity. + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PART I + + FOOD VALUES AND FOOD REQUIREMENTS + + THE COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS. + + THE FUNCTIONS OF FOOD. + Food as a Source of Energy. + Food as Building Material. + Food in the Regulation of Body Processes. + + FOOD REQUIREMENT. + The Energy Requirement of Normal Adults. + The Energy Requirement of Children. + The Energy Requirement of the Aged. + The Protein Requirement. + The Fat and Carbohydrate Requirement. + The Ash Requirement. + + PART II + + PROBLEMS IN DIETARY CALCULATIONS + Studies in Weight, Measure, and Cost of Some Common Food Materials. + Relation between Percentage Composition and Weight. + Calculation of the Fuel Value of a Single Food Material. + Calculation of the Weight of a Standard or 100-Calorie Portion. + Food Value of a Combination of Food Materials. + Distribution of Foodstuffs in a Standard Portion of a Single Food + Material. + Calculation of a Standard Portion of a Combination of Food Materials. + Analysis of a Recipe. + Modification of Cow's Milk to a Required Formula. + Calculation of the Percentage Composition of a Food Mixture. + The Calculation of a Complete Dietary. + Scoring of the Dietary. + + REFERENCE TABLES + Refuse in Food Materials. + Conversion Tables--Grams to Ounces. + Conversion Tables--Ounces to Grams. + Conversion Tables--Pounds to Grams. + Food Values in Terms of Standard Units of Weight. + Ash Constituents in Percentages of the Edible Portion. + Ash Constituents in Standard or 100-Calorie Portions. + + APPENDIX + The Equipment of a Dietetics Laboratory. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +THE FOOD PROBLEM + +BY VERNON KELLOGG AND ALONZO E. TAYLOR. $1.25 + + + "Food is always more or less of a problem in every phase of its + production, handling and consumption. It is a problem with every + farmer, every transporter and seller, every householder. It is a + problem with every town, state and nation. And now very + conspicuously, it is a problem with three great groups, namely the + Allies, The Central Empires and The Neutrals; in a word it is a + great international problem." + +These sentences from the introduction indicate the scope of _The Food +Problem_ by Vernon Kellogg and Alonzo E. Taylor. + +Both authors are members of the United States Food Administration. Dr. +Kellogg is also connected with the Commission for relief in Belgium and +professor in Stanford University. Mr. Taylor is a member of the Exports +Administrative Board and professor in the University of Pennsylvania. The +preface is by Herbert Hoover, United States Food Administrator and +Chairman for the Commission of Relief in Belgium. + +The food problem of today, of our nation, therefore, has as its most +conspicuous phase an international character. Some of the questions which +the book considers are: + +What is the Problem in detail? + +What are the general conditions of its solution? + +What are the immediate and particulars which concern us, and are within +our power to affect? + +And finally, what are we actually doing to meet our problem? + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + Introduction: The International Problem. + + Part I. The Problem and the Solution. + + Chapter I. The Food Situation of the Western Allies and the United + States. + II. Food Administration. + III. How England, France and Italy are Controlling and Saving Food. + IV. Food Control in Germany and Its Lessons. + + Part II. The Technology of Food Use. + + Chapter V. The Physiology of Nutrition. + VI. The Sociology of Nutrition. + VII. The Sociology of Nutrition (Continued). + VIII. Grain and Alcohol. + + Conclusion: Patriotism and Food. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +TWO TEXTBOOKS OF THE HOUSEHOLD ARTS + + +BY HELEN KINNE, Professor, AND ANNA M. COOLEY, Associate Professor of +Household Arts Education, Teachers College, Columbia University + +Cloth, 12mo, ill. $1.10 + + +FOODS AND HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT + +Treats specifically of foods, their production, sanitation, cost, +nutritive value, preparation, and serving, these topics being closely +interwoven with the practical aspects of household management; and they +are followed by a study of the household budget and accounts, methods of +buying, housewifery, and laundering. It includes about 160 carefully +selected and tested recipes, together with a large number of cooking +exercises of a more experimental nature designed to develop initiative and +resourcefulness. + +The book is new, practical, and economical. It is well illustrated and +attractively bound. + + +SHELTER AND CLOTHING + +This book takes up fully, but with careful balance, every phase of +home-making: location, structure, plan, sanitation, heating, lighting, +decorating, and furnishing. The second part is devoted to textiles, +sewing, and dressmaking. Sewing, drafting, designing, fitting, and cutting +are treated in considerable detail as is also the making of the personal +budget for clothing. + +The authors hold that harmony will be the keynote of the home in +proportion as the makers of the home regard the plan, the sanitation, the +decoration of the house itself, and as they exercise economy and wisdom in +the provision of clothing. + + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14066 *** diff --git a/14066-h/14066-h.htm b/14066-h/14066-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..89a3feb --- /dev/null +++ b/14066-h/14066-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3032 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-transitional.dtd"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Everyday Foods in War Time, by Mary Swartz Rose</title> +<style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[*/ + <!-- + body {font-family:Georgia,serif;margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%;} + p {text-align: justify; text-indent: 1em;} + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 {text-align: center;} + pre {font-family:Courier,monospaced;font-size: 0.8em;} + sup {font-size:0.7em;} + hr {width: 50%;} + hr.full {width: 100%;} + hr.short {width:25%;} + + ul {list-style-type:none;margin-left:1em;text-indent:-1em;} + ol>li {padding-bottom:1em;} + .returnTOC {text-align:right;font-size:.7em;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem p {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem p.i2 {margin-left: 1em;} + .poem p.i4 {margin-left: 2em;} + .poem p.i6 {margin-left: 3em;} + .cen {text-align:center;} + .rgt {text-align:right;} + span.sidenote {position: absolute; right: 1%; left: 87%; font-size: .7em;text-align:left;text-indent:0em;} + sup{font-size:.7em;} + span.sc {font-variant:small-caps;} + .quote {text-align:justify;text-indent:0em;margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;} + .note {font-size:0.8em;text-align:justify;text-indent:0em;margin-left:10%;margin-right:10%;} + a:link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:visited {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:hover {color:red} + pre {font-size: 8pt;} + --> +/*]]>*/ +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14066 ***</div> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Everyday Foods in War Time, by Mary Swartz +Rose</h1> +<hr class="full" /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME</h1> +<p class="cen">BY</p> +<h2>MARY SWARTZ ROSE</h2> +<h5>ASSISTANT-PROFESSOR, DEPARTMENT OF NUTRITION,<br /> + TEACHERS COLLEGE, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY</h5> +<h4>New York</h4> +<h4>1918</h4> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>The time has come, the Aggies said,</p> +<p class="i2">To talk of many things,</p> +<p>Of what to eat, of calories,</p> +<p class="i2">Of cabbages and kings,</p> +<p>Of vitamines and sausages,</p> +<p class="i2">And whether costs have wings.</p> +</div> +<p class="rgt"><em>Journal of Home Economics</em>,<br /> +November, 1917.</p> +</div> +<hr class="full" /> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> +<p class="quote">“FOOD IS FUEL FOR FIGHTERS. Do not waste it. +Save WHEAT, MEAT, SUGARS AND FATS. Send more to our Soldiers, +Sailors and Allies.”</p> +<p>The patriotic housewife finds her little domestic boat sailing +in uncharted waters. The above message of the Food Administration +disturbs her ordinary household routine, upsets her menus and puts +her recipes out of commission. It also renders inoperative some of +her usual methods of economy at a time when rising food prices make +economy more imperative than ever. To be patriotic and still live +on one’s income is a complex problem. This little book was +started in response to a request for “a war message about +food.” It seemed to the author that a simple explanation of +the part which some of our common foods play in our diet might be +both helpful and reassuring. To change one’s menu is often +trying; to be uncertain whether the substituted foods will preserve +one’s health and strength makes adjustment doubly difficult. +It is hoped that the brief chapters which follow will make it +easier to “save wheat, meat, sugars and fats” and to +make out an acceptable bill of fare without excessive cost.</p> +<p>Thanks are due to the Webb Publishing Company, St. Paul, +Minnesota, for permission to reprint three of the chapters, which +appeared originally in <em>The Farmer’s Wife</em>.</p> +<p>TEACHERS COLLEGE, Columbia University, New York City.</p> +<p><em>December 1, 1917.</em></p> +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a id="Contents" name="Contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a></h2> +<h3>CHAPTER</h3> +<ol style="list-style-type: upper-roman;"> +<li><a href="#Ch_1">THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_2">CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_3">THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_4">THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_5">ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES?</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_6">FAT AND VITAMINES</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_7">“SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING +NICE”</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_8">ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME +TIME</a></li> +<li style="list-style-type:none;"><a href= +"#Appx">APPENDIX—SOME WAR TIME RECIPES</a></li> +</ol> +<hr class="full" /> +<h1>EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME</h1> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_1" name="Ch_1">CHAPTER I</a></h2> +<h3>THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p class="note">(Reprinted from <em>The Farmer's Wife</em>, by +permission of the Webb Publishing Company.)</p> +<p>There is a quaint old fairy tale of a friendly pitcher that came +and took up its abode in the home of an aged couple, supplying them +from its magic depths with food and drink and many other comforts. +Of this tale one is reminded in considering the place of the milk +pitcher in the home. How many housewives recognize the bit of +crockery sitting quietly on the shelf as one of their very best +friends? How many know that it will cover many of their mistakes in +the choice of food for their families? That it contains mysterious +substances upon which growth depends? That it stands ready to save +them both work and worry in regard to food? That it is really the +only indispensable article on the bill of fare?</p> +<p>Diet is like a house, a definite thing, though built of +different kinds of material. For a house we need wall material, +floor material, window, ceiling, chimney stuffs and so forth. We +may, if we like, make floors, walls, and ceilings all of the same +kind of stuff, wood for example, but we should need glass for +windows and bricks or tile for chimneys. Or, again, we may choose +brick for walls, floors, and chimneys but it would not do any +better than wood for windows, would be rather unsatisfactory for +ceilings, and impossible for doors. In other words, we could not +build a modern house from one kind of material only and we really +need at least four to carry out even a simple plan.</p> +<p>In a similar fashion, diet is constructed from fuel material, +body-building material and body-regulating material. No diet is +perfect in which these are not all represented. Now, foods are like +sections of houses. Some correspond to single parts, as a floor or +a window or perhaps a chimney; others to a house complete except +for windows and roof; still others to a house lacking only a door +or two. It takes some thought to put them together so that we shall +have all kinds of parts without a great many extra ones of certain +kinds and not enough of others.</p> +<p>Milk is unique in that it comes nearest of all foods to being a +complete diet in itself. It is like the house with only a door +missing. We could be quite comfortable in such a house for a long +time though we could make a more complete diet by adding some +graham bread or an apple or some spinach.</p> +<p>We all associate milk with cows and cows with farms, but how +closely is milk associated with the farm table? Is it prized as the +most valuable food which the farm produces? Every drop should be +used as food; and this applies to skim milk, sour milk, and +buttermilk as well as sweet milk. Do we all use milk to the best +advantage in the diet? Here are a few points which it is well to +bear in mind:</p> +<p><em>Milk will take the place of meat.</em> The world is facing a +meat famine. The famine was on the way before the war began but it +has approached with tremendous speed this last year. Every cow +killed and eaten means not only so much less meat available but so +much less of an adequate substitute. Lean meat contributes to the +diet chiefly protein and iron. We eat it primarily for the protein. +Hence in comparing meat and milk we think first of their protein +content. One and one-fourth cups of milk will supply as much +protein as two ounces of lean beef. The protein of milk is largely +the part which makes cottage cheese. So cottage cheese is a good +meat substitute and a practical way of using part of the skim milk +when the cream is taken off for butter. One and one-half ounces of +cottage cheese (one-fourth cup) are the protein equivalent of two +ounces of lean beef. Skim milk and buttermilk are just as good +substitutes for meat as whole milk. Since meat is one of the most +expensive items in the food bill, its replacement by milk is a very +great financial economy. This is true even if the meat is raised on +the farm, as food for cattle is used much more economically in the +production of milk than of beef.</p> +<p><em>Milk is the greatest source of calcium (lime).</em> Lime is +one of the components of food that serves two purposes; it is both +building material for bones and regulating material for the body as +a whole, helping in several important ways to maintain good health. +It is essential that everyone have a supply of lime and +particularly important that all growing infants, children, and +young people have plenty for construction of bones and teeth. There +is almost none in meat and bread, none in common fats and sugars, +and comparatively few common foods can be taken alone and digested +in large enough quantities to insure an adequate supply; whereas a +pint of milk (whole, skim, or buttermilk) will guarantee to a grown +person a sufficient amount, and a quart a day will provide for the +greater needs of growing children. Whatever other foods we have, we +cannot afford to leave milk out of the diet because of its lime. +Under the most favorable dietary conditions, when the diet is +liberal and varied, an adult should have <em>at least</em> half a +pint of milk a day and no child should be expected to thrive with +less than a pint.</p> +<p><em>Milk contains a most varied assortment of materials needed +in small amounts</em> for the body welfare, partly for constructive +and partly for regulating purposes. These are rather irregularly +distributed in other kinds of food materials. When eggs, +vegetables, and cereals are freely used, we are not likely to +suffer any lack; but when war conditions limit the number of foods +which we can get, it is well to remember that the more limited the +variety of foods in the diet the more important milk becomes.</p> +<p><em>Milk will take the place of bread, butter, sugar, and other +foods used chiefly for fuel.</em> The body is an engine which must +be stoked regularly in order to work. The more work done the more +fuel needed. That is what we mean when we talk about the food +giving “working strength.” A farmer and his wife and +usually all the family need much fuel because they do much physical +work. Even people whose work is physically light require +considerable fuel. A quart of milk will give as much working force +as half a pound of bread, one-fourth of a pound of butter, or six +ounces of sugar. And this is in addition to the other advantages +already mentioned.</p> +<p><em>Milk contains specifics for growth.</em> Experiments with +animals have taught us that there are two specific substances, +known as vitamines, which must be present in the diet if a young +animal is to grow. If either one is absent, growth is impossible. +Both are to be found in milk, one in the cream and the other in the +skim milk or whey. For this reason children should have whole milk +rather than skim milk. Of course, butter and skim milk should +produce the same result as whole milk. Eggs also have these +requisites and can be used to supplement milk for either one, but +as a rule it is more practical to depend upon milk, and usually +more economical.</p> +<p>For little children, milk is best served as a beverage. But as +children grow up, the fluidity of milk makes them feel as if it +were not food enough and it is generally better to use it freely in +the kitchen first, and then, if there is any surplus, put it on the +table as a beverage or serve it thus to those who need an extra +supply—the half-grown boys, for instance, who need more food +in a day than even a hard-working farmer.</p> +<p>A good plan is to set aside definitely, as a day’s supply, +a quart apiece for each person under sixteen and a pint apiece for +each one over this age. Then see at night how well one has +succeeded in disposing of it. If there is much left, one should +consider ways of using it to advantage. The two simplest probably +are, first, as cream sauce for vegetables of all sorts; for +macaroni or hominy with or without cheese; or for hard cooked eggs +or left-over meats; and next in puddings baked a long time in the +oven so that much of the water in the milk is evaporated. Such +puddings are easy to prepare on almost any scale and are invaluable +for persons with big appetites because they are concentrated +without being unwholesome.</p> +<p>The milk pitcher and the vegetable garden are the best friends +of the woman wishing to set a wholesome and economical table. +Vegetables supplement milk almost ideally, since they contain the +vegetable fiber which helps to guard against constipation, and the +iron which is the lacking door in the “house that milk +built.”</p> +<p>Vegetables which are not perfect enough to serve uncooked, like +the broken leaves of lettuce and the green and tough parts of +celery, are excellent cooked and served with a cream sauce. Cream +sauce makes it possible also to cook enough of a vegetable for two +days at once, sending it to the table simply dressed in its own +juices or a little butter the first time and making a scalloped +dish with cream sauce and crumbs the next day. Vegetables which do +not lend themselves to this treatment can be made into cream soups, +which are excellent as the hot dish for supper, because they can be +prepared in the morning and merely reheated at serving time.</p> +<p>Finally, the addition of milk in liberal quantities to tea and +coffee (used of course only by adults); its use without dilution +with water in cocoa; and instead of water in bread when that is +made at home, ought to enable a housewife to dispose satisfactorily +of her day’s quota of milk. If it should accumulate, it can +be dispatched with considerable rapidity in the form of ice cream +or milk sherbet. When there is much skim milk, the latter is a most +excellent way of making it popular, various fruits in their seasons +being used for flavor, as strawberries, raspberries, and peaches, +with lemons to fall back on when no native fruit is at hand.</p> +<p>The world needs milk today as badly as wheat. All that we can +possibly spare is needed in Europe for starving little ones. In any +shortage the slogan must be “children first.” But in +any limited diet milk is such a safeguard that we should bend our +energies to saving it from waste and producing more, rather than +learning to do without it. Skim milk from creameries is too +valuable to be thrown away. Everyone should be on the alert to +condemn any use of milk except as food and to encourage +condensation and drying of skim milk to be used as a substitute for +fresh milk.</p> +<p>When the milk pitcher is allowed to work its magic for the human +race, we shall have citizens of better physique than the records of +our recruiting stations show today. Even when the family table is +deprived of its familiar wheat bread and meat, we may be strong if +we invoke the aid of this friendly magician.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_2" name="Ch_2">CHAPTER II</a></h2> +<h3>CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p class="note">(Reprinted from <em>The Farmer's Wife</em>, by +permission of the Webb Publishing Company.)</p> +<p>“Save wheat!” This great slogan of our national food +campaign has been echoed and reëchoed for six months, but do +we yet realize that it means US? We have had, hitherto, a great +deal of wheat in our diet. Fully one-third of our calories have +come from wheat flour. To ask us to do without wheat is to shake +the very foundation of our daily living. How shall we be able to do +without it? What shall we substitute for it? These are questions +which every housewife must ask and answer before she can take her +place in the Amazon Army of Food Conservers.</p> +<p>Is it not strange that out of half a dozen different grains +cultivated for human consumption, the demand should concentrate +upon wheat? One might almost say that the progress of civilization +is marked by raised bread. And wheat has, beyond all other grains, +the unique properties that make possible a light, porous yet +somewhat tenacious loaf. We like the taste of it, mild but sweet; +the feel of it, soft yet firm; the comfort of it, almost perfect +digestion of every particle. We have been brought up on it and it +is a hardship to change our food habits. It takes courage and +resolution. It takes visions of our soldiers crossing the seas to +defend us from the greedy eye of militarism and thereby deprived of +so many things which we still enjoy. Shall we hold back from them +the “staff of life” which they need so much more than +we?</p> +<p>Can we live without wheat? Certainly, and live well. We must +recognize the scientific fact that no one food (with the exception +of milk) is indispensable. There are four letters in the food +alphabet: <em>A</em>, fuel for the body machine; <em>B</em>, +protein for the upkeep of the machinery; <em>C</em>, mineral salts, +partly for upkeep and partly for lubrication—to make all +parts work smoothly together; <em>D</em>, vitamines, subtle and +elusive substances upon whose presence depends the successful use +by the body of all the others. These four letters, rightly +combined, spell health. They are variously distributed in food +materials. Sometimes all are found in one food (milk for example), +sometimes only one (as in sugar), sometimes two or three. The +amounts also vary in the different foods. To build up a complete +diet we have to know how many of these items are present in a given +food and also how much of each is there.</p> +<p>Now, cereals are much alike in what they contribute to the diet. +In comparing them we are apt to emphasize their differences, much +as we do in comparing two men. One man may be a little taller, a +little heavier, have a different tilt to his nose, but any two men +are more alike than a man and a dog. So corn has a little less +protein than wheat and considerably less lime, yet corn and wheat +are, nutritionally, more alike than either is like sugar.</p> +<p>None of the cereals will make a complete diet by itself. If we +take white bread as the foundation, we must add to it something +containing lime, such as milk or cheese; something containing iron, +such as spinach, egg yolk, meat, or other iron-rich food; something +containing vitamines, such as greens or other vitamine-rich food; +something to reënforce the proteins, as milk, eggs, meat, or +nuts. It is not possible to make a perfect diet with only one other +kind of food besides white bread. It can be done with three: bread, +milk, and spinach, for example.</p> +<p>If we substitute whole wheat for white bread, we can make a +complete diet with two foods—this and milk. We get from the +bran and the germ what in the other case we got from the spinach. +<em>All the cereals can be effectively supplemented by milk and +green vegetables.</em> If green vegetables (or substitutes for them +like dried peas and beans or fruit) are hard to get we should give +preference to cereals from which the bran coats have not been +removed, such as oatmeal and whole wheat. Then the diet will not be +deficient in iron, which is not supplied in large enough amounts +from white bread and milk. Oatmeal is the richest in iron of all +the cereals.</p> +<p>With such knowledge, we may alter our diet very greatly without +danger of undernutrition. But we must learn to cook other cereals +at least as well as we do wheat. Without proper cooking they are +unpalatable and unwholesome, and they are not so easy to cook as +wheat. They take a longer time and we cannot get the same culinary +effects, since with the exception of rye they will not make a light +loaf. Fortunately we are not asked to deny ourselves wheat +entirely, only to substitute other cereals for part of it. Let each +housewife resolve when next she buys flour to buy at the same time +one-fourth as much of some other grain, finely ground, rye, corn, +barley, according to preference, and mix the two thoroughly at +once. Then she will be sure not to forget to carry out her good +intentions. Bread made of such a mixture will be light and tender, +and anything that cannot be made with it had better be dispensed +with in these times.</p> +<p>Besides the saving of wheat for our country’s sake, we +shall do well to economize in it for our own. Compared with other +cereals, wheat is expensive. We can get more food, in every sense +of the word, from half a pound of oatmeal than we can from a +twelve-ounce loaf of white bread, and the oatmeal will not cost +one-half as much as the bread. A loaf of Boston brown bread made +with one cupful each of cornmeal, oatmeal (finely ground), rye +flour, molasses, and skim milk will have two and one-half times the +food value of a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread and will cost +little more. One-half pound of cornmeal, supplemented by a half +pint of milk, will furnish more of everything needed by the body +than such a twelve-ounce loaf, usually at less cost.</p> +<p>It pays at all times to use cereals in other forms than bread, +for both health and economy. Does your family eat cereal for +breakfast? A dish of oatmeal made from one-fourth cupful of the dry +cereal will take the place of two slices of white bread, each about +half an inch thick and three inches square, and give us iron +besides. Served with milk, it will make a well-balanced meal. When +we add a little fruit to give zest and some crisp corn bread to +contrast with the soft mush, we have a meal in which we may take a +just pride, <em>provided the oatmeal is properly cooked</em>.</p> +<p>A good dish of oatmeal is as creditable a product as a good loaf +of bread. It cannot be made without taking pains to get the right +proportions of meal, water, and salt, and to cook thoroughly, which +means at least four hours in a double boiler, over night in a +fireless cooker, or half an hour at twenty pounds in a pressure +cooker. Half-cooked oatmeal is most unwholesome, as well as +unpalatable. It is part of our patriotic duty not to give so useful +a food a bad reputation.</p> +<p>The man who does hard physical labor, especially in the open +air, may complain that the oatmeal breakfast does not “stay +by” him. This is because it digests rapidly. What he needs is +a little fat stirred into the mush before it is sent to the table, +or butter as well as milk and sugar served with it. If one must +economize, the cereal breakfast should always be the rule. It is +impossible in any other way to provide for a family adequately on a +small sum, especially where there are growing children.</p> +<p>Next to oatmeal, hominy is one of the cheapest breakfast foods. +It has less flavor and is improved by the addition of a few dates +cut into quarters or some small stewed seedless raisins, which also +add the iron which hominy lacks. For the adults of the family the +staying qualities of hominy and cornmeal can be increased by +cutting the molded mush in slices and frying till a crisp crust is +formed. This can be obtained more easily if the cereals are cooked +in a mixture of milk and water instead of water alone. The milk +supplements the cereal as acceptably as in a dish of mush and milk. +Cornmeal needs even more cooking than oatmeal to develop an +agreeable flavor. It can be improved by the addition of an equal +amount of farina or cream of wheat.</p> +<p>Cereals for dinner are acceptable substitutes for such +vegetables as potatoes, both for economy and for variety. The whole +grains, rice, barley, and hominy, lend themselves best to such use. +Try a dish of creamed salmon with a border of barley; one of hominy +surrounded by fried apples; or a bowl of rice heaped with bananas +baked to a turn and removed from their skins just before serving, +and be glad that the war has stirred you out of food ruts!</p> +<p>Cereals combined with milk make most wholesome puddings, each +almost a well-balanced meal in itself. They are easier to make than +pies, shortcakes, and other desserts which require wheat flour, and +they are splendid growing food for boys and girls.</p> +<p>For the hard-working man who misses the slowly-digesting pie, +serve the puddings with a hard sauce or add a little butter when +making them. For the growing children, raisins, dates, and other +fruits are welcome additions on account of their iron. From half a +cupful to a cupful of almost any cereal pudding made with milk is +the equivalent of an ordinary serving of pie.</p> +<p>Aside from the avoidance of actual waste of food materials, +there seems to be no one service so imperative for housewives to +render in these critical times as the mastery of the art of using +cereals. These must be made to save not only wheat but meat, and +for most of us also money.</p> +<p>A wholesome and yet economical diet may be built upon a plan +wherein we find for an average working man fourteen ounces of +cereal food and one pint of milk, from two to four ounces of meat +or a good meat substitute, two ounces of fat, three ounces of sugar +or other sweeteners, at least one kind of fruit, and one kind of +vegetable besides potatoes (more if one has a garden).</p> +<p>The cereal may furnish half the fuel value of the diet, partly +bread-stuffs and partly in some of the other ways as suggested, +without any danger of undernutrition. Remember the fable of the +farmer who told his sons he had left them a fortune and bade them +dig on his farm for it after his death, and how they found wealth +not as buried treasure but through thorough tillage of the soil. So +one might leave a message to woman to look in the cereal pot, for +there is a key to health and wealth, and a weapon to win the +greatest war the world has ever seen.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_3" name="Ch_3">CHAPTER III</a></h2> +<h3>THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>“Do not buy a pound of meat until you have bought three +quarts of milk” is a “war sign” pointing two +ways. On the one hand it tells us that we need to save meat; on the +other, that we should encourage the production of that most +indispensable food—milk.</p> +<p>But what a revolution in some households if this advice is +heeded! Statisticians tell us that Americans have been consuming +meat at the rate of 171 pounds per capita per year, which means +nearly half a pound apiece every day for each man, woman, child, +and infant in arms. Now, as mere infants and some older folk have +not had any, it follows that many of us have had a great deal more. +Did we need it? Shall we be worse off without it? Meat is +undeniably popular. In spite of the rising price and the patriotic +spirit of conservation, meat consumption goes on in many quarters +at much the usual rate. There is probably no other one food so +generally liked. It has a decided and agreeable flavor, a +satisfactory “chew,” and leaves an after-sense of being +well fed that many take as the sign of whether they are well +nourished or not. It digests well, even when eaten rapidly, and +perhaps partly for this reason is favored by the hurried man of +affairs. It is easy to prepare and hence is appreciated by the +cook, who knows that even with unskillful treatment it will be +acceptable and require few accessories to make an agreeable meal. +Its rich flavor helps to relieve the flatness of foods like rice, +hominy, beans, or bread. From this point of view there is no such +thing as a “meat substitute.”</p> +<p>But, nutritionally speaking, meat is only one of many; +undeniably a good source of protein, but no better than milk or +eggs. A lamb chop is a very nice item on a bill of fare, but the +protein it contains can be secured just as well from one large egg, +or two level tablespoonfuls of peanut butter, or one and one-fourth +ounces of cheese; or a part of the time from a quarter of a cup of +dried navy beans or a little less of dried split peas.</p> +<p>Meat is highly regarded as a source of iron; but, again, it has +no monopoly of this important building-stone in the house of diet. +The eggs, or peas, or half the beans mentioned above would any one +of them furnish more iron than the lamb chop, while a quarter of a +cup of cooked spinach or a small dish of string beans would furnish +quite as much. Besides green vegetables, fruit, and the yolk of +egg, cereals are a not inconsiderable source of iron. A man would +have adequate nourishment for a day, including a sufficient supply +of iron, if he were doing only moderate physical labor, from one +pint of milk, one and one-half pounds of whole wheat bread, and +three medium-sized apples. Beef juice is often used as a source of +iron for children and undoubtedly it is one which is palatable and +digestible, but it takes a quarter of a pound of beef to get a few +tablespoonfuls of juice, and a tablespoonful of juice would hardly +contain as much iron as one egg yolk; and it seems probable that +the iron of the egg yolk would be better utilized for the making of +good red blood.</p> +<p>Meat is good fuel for the human machine if used in moderate +amounts along with other food. But meat is no better fuel than +other food. An ordinary lamb chop will furnish no more calories +than a dish of oatmeal, a piece of bread an inch thick and three +inches square, a large apple or banana, an egg, five ounces +(five-eighths of a cup) of milk, or a tablespoonful of peanut +butter. The fatter meat is the higher its fuel value (providing the +fat is used for food). A tablespoonful of bacon fat or beef +drippings has the same fuel value as a tablespoonful of butter or +lard, or as the lamb chop mentioned above. The man who insists that +he has to have meat for working strength judges by how he feels +after a meal and not by the scientific facts. While in the long run +appetite serves as a measure of food requirement, we can find +plenty of instances where it does not make a perfect measure. Some +people have too large appetites for their body needs and get too +fat from sheer surplus of fuel stored in the body for future needs +as fat. If such people have three good meals a day all the time, +there never is any future need and the fat stays. Other people have +too small appetites for their needs and they never seem to get a +surplus of fuel on hand. They live, as it were, from hand to mouth. +Anyone accustomed to eating meat will have an unsatisfied feeling +at first after a meal without meat. The same is true of other +highly flavored foods. It is well for the cook to bear this in mind +and serve a few rather highly seasoned dishes when there is no meat +on the bill of fare. A very sweet dessert will often satisfy this +peculiar sensation, and it can be allayed, at least in part, by the +drinking of water some little time after the meal. Such a sensation +will pass away when one becomes accustomed to the change in diet. +It is probably due to certain highly flavored substances dissolved +in the meat juices which are known to be excellent stimulants to +the flow of gastric juice and which are stimulating in other ways. +These have no food value in themselves, but, nevertheless, we prize +meat for them, as is shown by the distaste we have for meat which +has its juices removed. “Soup meat” has always been a +problem for the housewife—hard to make palatable—and +yet the greater part of the nourishment of meat is left in the meat +itself after soup is made from it.</p> +<p>Let us frankly recognize then that we eat meat because we like +it—for its flavor and texture rather than any peculiar +nourishing properties—and that it is only our patriotic +self-denial or force of economic circumstances that induces us to +forgo our accustomed amounts of a food which is pleasant and (in +moderation) wholesome. We must save meat that the babies of the +world may have milk to drink. Nowhere in Europe is there enough +milk for babies today. A conservative request for one European city +alone was a shipment of one million pounds of condensed milk per +month! If cattle are killed for food there will be little milk to +send and the babies will perish. We must save meat for our soldiers +and sailors, because they need it more than we do. It is not only +easily transported, but one of the few things to give zest to their +necessarily limited fare. Fresh fruits and green vegetables, which +may serve us as appetizers, are not to be found on the war fields. +Dainty concoctions from cheese and nuts may provide for us flavor +as well as nutriment, but meat is the alternative to the dull +monotony of bread and beans for the soldier—the tonic of +appetite, the stimulant to good digestion. We can scarcely send him +anything to take its place.</p> +<p>We must save meat, too, as a general food economy. Meat is +produced at the expense of grain, which we might eat ourselves. And +the production of meat is a very wasteful process. Grains have a +fuel value for man approximating 1,600 calories per pound. A pound +of meat in the form of beef will require the consumption by the +animal of some fourteen pounds of grain. The pound of beef will +furnish perhaps 1,200 calories, while the grain consumed will +represent over 20,000 calories. The production of milk from grain +is only about one-third as expensive, so the purchase of three +quarts of milk to one pound of meat is an economy in more ways than +one.</p> +<p>Saving for the rest of the world will not be without some +physical advantage to ourselves, if we have been accustomed to +indulge in meat freely. Among the well-to-do meat eating is apt to +be overdone to the extent of affecting the kidneys and the +arteries, and some enforced restriction would be a real advantage +to health, as has been demonstrated in other than war times. +Because a food is good is no reason for unlimited quantities; an +ounce of sugar a day is wholesome—a pound is likely to result +in both indigestion and a badly balanced diet. A quarter of a pound +of meat a day is not undesirable for an adult, but a pound a day +may result in general overeating or in the special ills which are +related directly to a large quantity of meat. One of these is an +upsetting of a proper balance of food elements in the diet. Diets +high in meat are apt to be low in milk and consequently low in +calcium. If the income is limited this is almost sure to be the +case, since there will not be enough money to provide meat freely +and at the same time satisfy other nutritive requirements. Such +diets are also likely to be low in fuel value and not provide +enough working force even while men are declaring that they must +have meat to give them strength. They would have more strength and +a better diet from every point of view if part of the meat money +were spent for milk. So the injunction to buy three quarts of milk +to one pound of meat is a good rule for securing a well balanced +and ample diet at the lowest cost.</p> +<p>Another good rule is to spend no more for meat, fish, and eggs +than for milk, and as much for fruits and vegetables as for meat, +fish, and eggs. Families very commonly spend as much as one-third +of the food money for meat; and, while they may secure a full third +of their protein, iron, and phosphorus in this way, they may not +get more than a sixth of their fuel and almost no calcium. Three +quarts of milk at fourteen cents a quart will yield about 2,000 +calories. For an expenditure of forty-two cents for beef as free +from waste as milk, we would pay perhaps thirty-two cents per +pound. A pound and a quarter of lean beef would yield about 1,000 +calories. So as fuel alone the milk would be twice as cheap as the +meat. Three quarts of milk would yield almost if not quite as much +protein as the meat and a liberal supply of calcium to offset the +iron furnished by the meat. Everything considered, then, milk is a +better investment than meat. The same is true of some of the other +foods which supply protein in the diet such as dry peas and beans; +cheese and peanut butter are at least twice as valuable +nutritionally as beef. The domestic problem is to make palatable +dishes from these foods. This requires time and patience. The cook +must not get discouraged if the first trial does not bring marked +success. The rest of the family should count it their +“bit” to eat valiantly until they can eat joyfully.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_4" name="Ch_4">CHAPTER IV</a></h2> +<h3>THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>Never did it seem truer that “blessings brighten as they +take their flight” than when the potato went off the market +or soaring prices put it out of reach in the winter of 1917. +“How shall I plan my meals without it?” was the +housewife’s cry. “How shall I enjoy my meals without +it?” said all the millions of potato eaters who immediately +forgot that there was still a large number of foods from which they +might extract some modicum of enjoyment.</p> +<p>And so the Nutrition Expert was asked to talk about +“potato substitutes” and expected to exercise some +necromancy whereby that which was not a potato might become a +potato. Now, the Nutrition Expert was very imperturbable—not +at all disturbed by the calamity which had befallen our tables. +That unfeeling person saw potatoes, not in terms of their hot +mealiness and spicy mildness, but in terms of that elusive thing +called “DIET.” The vanishing tuber was bidden to answer +the dietary roll-call:</p> +<table summary="dietary roll-call" style= +"width:80%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td>“Proteins?”</td> +<td width="30%">“Here!”</td> +<td width="40%">Answer somewhat faint but suggesting remarkable +worth.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Fats?”</td> +<td>No answer.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Carbohydrates?”</td> +<td>Loud note from</td> +<td>“Starch.”</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Mineral salts?”</td> +<td>“Here!”</td> +<td>From a regular chorus, among which “Potassium” and +“Iron” easily distinguishable.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Vitamines and Other Accessories?”</td> +<td>“Here! Here!”</td> +<td>Especially vociferous, the “Anti-Scorbutic +Property.”</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>“This is a good showing for any single food material. The +potato, as truly as bread, may be called a ‘staff of +life.’ Men have lived in health upon it for many months +without any other food save oleomargarine. Its protein, though +small in amount, is most efficient in body-building, its salts are +varied in kind and liberal in amount, and it furnishes a large +amount of very easily digested fuel besides. It is at its best when +cooked in the simplest possible way—baked or boiled in its +skin. Nevertheless we are not absolutely dependent upon the +potato.”</p> +<p>“Alas,” said the housewife, “this +doesn’t tell me what to cook for dinner!” +“Patience, Madam, we shall see about that.” The fact +that starch is present is what makes the potato seem so +substantial. But bread, rice, hominy, in fact, all cereal foods can +supply starch just as well. Pick out the one you fancy and serve it +for your dinner. One good-sized roll or a two-inch cube of corn +bread, or three-fourths of a cup of boiled rice will sustain you +just as well as a medium-sized potato. A banana, baked or fried, +makes an excellent substitute for a potato. An apple is also a very +palatable potato equivalent, if you want something more spicy than +hominy or corn bread. Why mourn over the lost potato?</p> +<p>But how about those mineral salts? Well, the potato has no +monopoly on those, either, though it is ordinarily a very valuable +contributor. Milk has already been mentioned as one of the great +safeguarding sources of so-called ash constituents. Others are +vegetables and fruits of different kinds. These have been a +neglected and sometimes a despised part of the diet: “Why +spend money for that which is not meat?” is often taken +literally. Even food specialists have been known to say, +“Fruits and vegetables are mostly water and indigestible +fiber; they have little food value.” This is a good deal like +saying, “If your coat be long enough you do not need a pair +of shoes.” A potato has as much iron as an egg yolk or a +medium-sized chop. This is one more reason why we should be sorry +to take the useful tuber from our tables, but we may feel a certain +independence, even when meat and eggs are prohibitive in price, +since by canning or drying, if in no other way, we can have green +vegetables as a source of iron the whole year through. Some people +are afraid that canned vegetables will prove unwholesome; but if +removed from the can as soon as opened and heated to boiling before +they are eaten, we are recently assured that the danger of food +poisoning will be materially lessened. Even when such vegetables +are wanted for salads, boiling and subsequent cooling are advised. +The mineral salts of vegetables dissolve into the water in which +they stand, and in any shortage of such food, or for the greatest +economy, it would seem wise to save the water in the can, which is +often thrown away to secure a more delicate flavor. Water from the +cooking of fresh vegetables which are not protected by skins (among +them spinach, peas, carrots, and asparagus), can often be reduced +to a small amount by steaming instead of boiling the vegetable, or +any drained off can be used in gravy, soup, sauce, or some similar +fashion. The strong flavor of some vegetables, however, makes such +economy rather impractical.</p> +<p>Some people discriminate against canned and dried vegetables +because they do not taste like fresh ones. This seems rather +unreasonable, as we want a variety of flavors in our diet and might +welcome the change which comes from this way of treating food as +well as that which comes from different methods of cooking. Nobody +expects a stew to taste like a roast, and yet both may be good and +we would not want either one all the time. Instead of regretting +that canned peas do not taste like those fresh from the garden +(incomparable ones!) let us be glad that they taste as good as they +do. Would we like them any better if they tasted like cornmeal +mush?</p> +<p>While a potato has about as much phosphorus as an egg yolk, +substitutes for it in this respect are not hard to find. Five +tablespoonfuls of milk or half an ounce of cheese will easily +supply as much, while half a cup of cooked string beans will +provide all the iron as well as half the phosphorus in a potato, +and a teaspoon of butter or other fat added to the beans will make +them equal in fuel value. On the other hand, two small slices of +whole wheat bread would furnish all the phosphorus, half the iron, +and an equal amount of fuel.</p> +<p>The potato is conspicuously high in potassium, but it is not +likely that in any diet containing one kind of fruit and one kind +of vegetable each day there will be any permanent shortage of this +substance. Spinach, celery, parsnips, lettuce, cabbage, rutabagas, +beets, carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers, and turnips are all good +sources of potassium and some of them are available all the year +round without canning and drying.</p> +<p>But what significance has the “Anti-Scorbutic +Property”? Does that not make potatoes indispensable? Scurvy, +Madam, occurs whenever people live for a long time on a monotonous +diet without fresh food. The potato offers good protection against +this disease at a low cost, but other foods have long been known to +possess the same power, among them oranges, lemons, limes, and +other fruits, and cabbage and other green vegetables; in fact, a +mixed diet in which fruits and vegetables occur is assurance of +freedom from scurvy. Just how far the potato will go in providing +the specific vitamines essential for growth is still unsettled. It +undoubtedly contains one of them in goodly amount, but for the +present it is wise to include some green (leaf) vegetable in the +diet even when potatoes are plentiful, especially if butter, milk, +and eggs cannot be freely used.</p> +<p>Nutritionally then, we can find substitutes for the potato; +practically, too, we can find quite satisfactory alternatives for +it in our conventional bills of fare. On the face of things the +potato is a bland mealy food which blends well with the high flavor +and the firm texture of meat and the softness of many other cooked +vegetables. Gastronomically, rice or hominy comes about as near to +having the same qualities, with hot bread, macaroni, sweet +potatoes, and baked bananas (underripe so as not to be too juicy +and sweet) close rivals. These are not so easy to cook and serve as +the potato and are not likely to supplant it when it is plentiful. +It might be worth while, however, to substitute these for potatoes +rather often. The latter will be appreciated all the more if not +served every day in the week, or at least not more than once a day. +We might extend the fashion of baked beans and brown bread to roast +pork with rice, ham with baked bananas, roast beef with hominy, and +broiled steak with macaroni. Why not? You, Madam Housewife, are +always sighing for variety, but does it never occur to you that the +greatest secret of variety lies in new combinations?</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_5" name="Ch_5">CHAPTER V</a></h2> +<h3>ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES?</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>In the house of diet fruits and vegetables may be likened to +windows and doors, fire-places and chimneys; we could dispense with +them, we could board up our windows and make a fire on a big stone +in the middle of the room, letting the smoke escape through a hole +in the roof, but such a course would not mean comfort year in and +year out. So we may exist without fruits and vegetables, but it is +worth while to stop and consider what we gain by their use.</p> +<p>We shall have to admit at the outset that if we have to spend +money or labor for them, fruits and vegetables are not the cheapest +source of fuel for the human machine. Some of them are cheaper fuel +than butter, eggs, or meat, but not as cheap as cereals, sugar, +molasses, syrups, and some of our cheapest fats. This is true of +potatoes, parsnips, carrots, dried peas and beans, and such fruits +as bananas, prunes, raisins, dates, figs, and possibly a few other +dried fruits, but we cannot justify our investment in most fruits +and vegetables solely on the plea that they are +“filling” in the sense of being of high fuel value; on +this ground lettuce, celery, cabbage, tomatoes, lemons, rhubarb, +cranberries, and many others would find no place in our domestic +economy.</p> +<p>Remembering that man does not live by fuel alone, we may find +ample reasons for spending some of our food money upon things which +at first thought seem to give an inadequate return. There is an old +adage, “An apple a day keeps the doctor away,” which if +true means that the apple is a real economy, a kind of health +insurance, for an apple costs seldom over five cents—often +only one—and a doctor’s visit may easily cost a hundred +times as much. There is a certain amount of truth in the saying, +though the apple does not have a monopoly of the supposed virtue. +It is more accurate, if less poetic, to say that an +<em>assortment</em> of fruits and vegetables helps to keep us in +good health. Before the days of modern “cold pack” +canning, mothers used to assemble their little home groups in the +spring and, in spite of sundry hidings under tables on the part of +reluctant Johnnies and Susies, dutifully portion out herb tea or +sulphur in molasses. Spring cleaning could never stop short of +“cleansing the blood!” And after a monotonous winter of +salt pork and fried potatoes no doubt heroic measures were +necessary to make up for an ill-chosen diet. Nowadays we recognize +no such seasonal need. We carry our surplus of fruits and +vegetables over from summer to winter and profit not only in the +greater daily pleasure of our tables but in clearer skins, brighter +eyes, and less “spring fever.”</p> +<p>How do fruits and vegetables help to keep us well? In the first +place, by their wholesome effect upon the bowels. As a rule we +associate regular daily movements with health, but do not always +recognize the part which diet plays in securing them. If we eat +little besides meat and potatoes, bread, butter, and cake or pie, +we are very likely to have constipation. This is particularly true +for those who work indoors or sit much of the time. Now, fruits and +vegetables have several properties which help to make them +laxative. Many have considerable woody fiber. In celery and +asparagus we find it in actual “strings”; in cabbage, +spinach, lettuce, and other stem or leaf vegetables it may not be +so noticeable, but it is certainly present and we should realize +that it is useful. The skins of fruit are of this nature and may +often be eaten, as in case of prunes, figs, apples, dried peaches +and apricots. The outer coats of grains, which serve the same +purpose, are frequently removed by milling, but similar coats of +peas and beans are not so removed except in the case of dried split +peas. In the juices of fruits and vegetables we find a variety of +laxative substances. This explains why apple juice (sweet cider), +orange juice or diluted lemon juice may be a very desirable morning +drink. The effect is partly due to the acid but not wholly. Juices +which are not acid to the taste, as those of prunes, figs, onions, +have laxative properties. So from a great variety of fruits and +vegetables, especially those which are fibrous or acid or both, we +may obtain the substitute for “pills” in wholesome +foods which are generally cheaper than drugs.</p> +<p>No diet can be properly built without a suitable supply of +mineral salts. The free use of milk is our greatest safeguard +against lack of any save iron, but when milk is scarce and has to +be saved as now for the babies of the world, it is fortunate that +we can make fruits and vegetables take its place in part. Some of +our very common vegetables are good sources of the calcium (lime) +and phosphorus so freely supplied in milk. Among these may be taken +as an example the carrot, which has not had due recognition in many +quarters and in some is even spoken of contemptuously as +“cattle food.” Its cheapness comes from the fact that +it is easy to grow and easy to keep through the winter and should +not blind us to its merits. A good-sized carrot (weight one-fourth +pound) will have only about half the fuel value of a medium-sized +potato, but nearly ten times as much calcium as the potato and +about one-third more phosphorus. While actual figures show that +other vegetables, especially parsnips, turnips, celery, +cauliflower, and lettuce, are richer in calcium than the carrot, +its cheapness and fuel value make it worthy of emphasis. Everyone +who has a garden should devote some space to this pretty and +palatable vegetable. It is perhaps at its best when steamed till +soft without salting and then cut up into a nicely seasoned white +sauce; its sweetness will not then be destroyed nor its salts lost +in the cooking water. It is not only useful as a hot vegetable, but +in salads, in the form of a toothsome marmalade, and as the +foundation of a steamed pudding. For little children it is most +wholesome and they should make its acquaintance by the time they +are a year and a half old, in the form of a cream soup. A dish of +carrots and peas (one-half cup peas, one-fourth cup carrot cubes, +one-half cup white sauce) will have almost the same food values +(for fuel, calcium, phosphorus, and iron) as an equivalent serving +of oatmeal, milk, and sugar (three-fourths cup cooked oatmeal, +one-half cup milk, one rounding teaspoon sugar) and will add +variety to the diet without costing a great deal more unless one +pays a fancy price for peas.</p> +<p>Even when meat and eggs are not prohibitive in price, fruit and +green vegetables are an important source of iron in the diet. And +when war conditions make the free consumption of meat unpatriotic, +it is reassuring to think that we really can get along without meat +very well if we know how. Two ounces of lean beef will furnish no +more iron than a quarter of a cup of cooked spinach or half a cup +of cooked string beans or dried beans, or one-sixth of a cup of +raisins, or half a dozen good-sized prunes. Cabbage, peas, lettuce, +dandelion greens, beet tops, turnip tops and other +“greens” are well worth including in our bill of fare +for their iron alone. By the time children are a year old we begin +to introduce special iron-bearing foods into their diet to +supplement milk. Aside from egg yolk, we give preference for this +purpose to green vegetable juice or pulp, especially from peas and +spinach or a mixture of both. The substantial character of dry +beans is too well known to require comment, but how many realize +that they are a most valuable source of iron and other mineral +salts? The fact that they are not a “complete diet” in +themselves should not disturb anyone who realizes that all diets +are built from a variety of foods. We are hardly likely to use +beans to the exclusion of everything else except in dire necessity, +and then what better could we do than use freely a food which will +go so far toward sustaining life at so small a cost?</p> +<p>There is a further significance for fruits and vegetables in +their contribution to the diet of the growth-promoting, +health-protecting vitamines. That the presence of fruits and +vegetables in the diet is a safeguard against scurvy is well known, +though the full scientific explanation is not yet ours. That the +leaf vegetables (spinach, lettuce, cabbage, and the like) contain +both the vitamines which are essential to growth in the young and +to the maintenance of health in the adult seems assured, and gives +us further justification for emphasis on green vegetables in the +diet of little children, when properly administered—i.e., +always cooked, put through a fine sieve, and fed in small +quantities.</p> +<p>Aside from being valuable for regulation of the bowels, for +mineral salts, and vitamines, to say nothing of more or less fuel +value, fruits and vegetables give zest to the diet. The pleasant +acidity of many fruits, their delicate aroma, their beautiful form +and coloring, the ease of preparing them for the table, are +qualities for which we may legitimately prize them, though we may +not spend money for them until actual nutritive requirements are +met. Dr. Simon Patten, in his <em>New Basis for Civilisation</em>, +ably expresses the value of appetizers: “Tomatoes, the +hothouse delicacy of the Civil War time, are doing now what many a +bloody revolution failed to accomplish; they have relieved the +monotony of the salt pork and boiled potatoes upon the poor +man’s table. The clear acid flavor of the canned vegetable +lightens ugly heaviness and adds tonic gratifications for the lack +of which men have let each other’s blood.”</p> +<p>As already remarked, those who have plenty of highly flavored +meat are apt to be satisfied by it or to demand stronger flavors +(coffee, catsup, pickles, and tobacco) than those found in fruits +and vegetables. They are also apt to spend so much money on meat +that they have none left to buy what seem to them unimportant items +in the diet, and to have a much less wholesome diet than they might +have for the same money. Studies of expenditures in many families +show that a good rule to insure a well balanced diet is to spend no +more money for meat than one does for fruit and vegetables. Also, +it is well to remember that vegetables are usually cheaper than +fruits and that dried ones may largely take the place of canned or +fresh ones. For wholesome and economical living, have fruit of some +kind at least once a day and make the main dish of one meal a +vegetable dish whenever possible. Thick cream soups, souffles, +creamed or scalloped vegetables, are all substantial and +appetizing. The way to learn to like such foods is to keep trying. +One may learn contentment with the proverbial dinner of herbs more +easily by realizing that one is building valuable bricks into the +house of diet; and in the present emergency one may, by selection +of fruits and vegetables of high energy value, save less perishable +foods for our soldiers and allies. The knowledge that a banana is +equivalent in calories to a large slice of bread or a small pat of +butter becomes tremendously significant; that an apple, an orange, +four prunes, four dates, or a cup of peas, may not only take the +place of bread but actually add something which the bread does not +contain, means that we may be the gainers from our own sacrifices, +without embarrassment thereat. We shall have reaped a speedy reward +for doing our duty.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_6" name="Ch_6">CHAPTER VI</a></h2> +<h3>FATS AND VITAMINES</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>In the days of the ancient Romans vegetable oils were prized for +food and butter was used for cosmetics. In America today we are +asking what is to become of us if we cannot have butter to eat! +Such are the fashions in food. “June butter” is one of +our gastronomic traditions. The sample in the restaurant may have +none of the firm creamy texture and delicate aromatic flavor of the +product of the old spring house; but as long as it is labeled +butter we try to bring our sensations into line with our +imaginations. For the real butter flavor there is no more a +substitute than there is for the aroma of coffee. But these are +matters of esthetic pleasure rather than of nutrition. They depend +largely upon habit. Whale blubber and seal oil are as much +appreciated in some quarters as butter is by us. An American going +inland from the Atlantic coast is often surprised to find that +olive oil, instead, of being served on every table, is exceedingly +disliked.</p> +<p>For the sustenance of the body we must recognize that fat is +fat, whatever its flavor. A calorie from butter yields neither more +nor less energy than a calorie from lard or bacon, olive oil or +cottonseed oil. The common food fats are all very well digested if +judiciously used—not in too large quantities, nor over-heated +in cooking, and not “cooked into” things too much as in +pastries, rich sauces, and fried foods. Whether we spread our bread +with butter or beef drippings amounts to the same thing in the long +run; the main point is which we are willing to eat.</p> +<p>A change is rapidly coming over our food habits. The price of +butter has been soaring beyond our reach, and the market for +“butterine,” “nut margarine,” +“oleomargarine,” or whatever the substitute table fat +may be called, has expanded tremendously. It is excellent household +economy to buy milk and a butter substitute rather than cream or +butter. In these substitutes refined vegetable oils such as +cottonseed, cocoanut, and peanut, and oils derived from beef or +lard are so combined or treated as to produce the desired hardness, +and churned with milk or milk and butter to improve texture and +flavor. Lard substitutes are similarly made from one or more of +these fats, but are harder in texture and no attempt is made to +give them a butter flavor by churning with milk. All the fats used +are wholesome and efficient sources of energy for the human +machine.</p> +<p>In the absence of butter some other form of fat is desirable in +the diet, because fat is so concentrated a food. There is a limit +to the capacity of the human stomach to hold food. People who live +on a diet largely of rice, which has almost no fat in its make-up, +develop characteristically distended abdomens, because they have to +eat such a great quantity of food to get fuel enough for their +day’s work. When people are for any reason put on a milk diet +for a considerable time it is customary to put something into the +milk to make it more concentrated, for otherwise they would drink +and drink and then hardly get fuel enough. To give a concrete +illustration—a man’s energy requirement for a day may +be met by from four to five quarts of milk (unless he is doing very +heavy manual labor), but it would be much more practical to +substitute a loaf of bread, which is comparatively dry, for one +quart of milk, and three ounces of fat (six tablespoonfuls) for +another quart of milk, making the total volume but little over half +what it would be if four quarts of milk were taken. For people who +are engaged in hard physical toil, fat is exceedingly important for +this purpose of gaining in concentration. “Fat is fuel for +fighters,” and it is perfectly reasonable to ask those who +are not doing much heavy labor to eat other kinds of food and save +fat for those who simply have to have it to do their work well. In +the ordinary mixed diet one can easily dispense with an ounce of +fat (two tablespoonfuls). Each tablespoonful is equalled in energy +by an apple, or a banana, a large egg, two half-inch slices of +bread about three inches square, four dates, four prunes—and +it is no great strain on one’s capacity for food to +substitute such items for the fat.</p> +<p>On account of its concentration, fat is good for transportation; +and aside from its energy value it gives the diet +“staying” qualities. Other things being equal, one +feels hungry sooner after a meal without fat than after one in +which it is liberally supplied. People doing manual labor, and +especially out of doors, feel the pangs of hunger more than +sedentary folks and hence need more fat to keep them comfortable. +No man can do his best work when all the time thinking how hungry +he is. It behooves us all then, as good citizens, to recognize the +greater need of our soldiers and sailors and our hard-working +laborers for as liberal allowances of fat as we can make. At the +same time, we cannot for our own best health dispense with fat +altogether. We may consider anything up to two ounces apiece a day +legitimate for our own maintenance of efficiency.</p> +<p>In departing from food customs there is a natural timidity lest +the new food shall in some way be less healthful than the old. +Recent scientific researches have revealed a hitherto unsuspected +property in butter, a discovery which has aroused some concern as +to whether we can safely substitute other fats for it. Young +animals fed on a diet of highly purified food materials in which +lard is the only kind of fat may seem fairly well but do not grow +normally, while those fed the same diet in every respect except +that the lard is replaced by butter grow as young animals should +and are more resistant to disease. Study of other food fats shows +that they may be divided into two groups, one with this growth +promoting property and one without it. In general, the vegetable +oils do not have it, while butter and beef oil do; on the other +hand, lard does not have it, while the oil from corn does. Careful +analysis of the situation has shown that a fat-soluble vitamine is +present which can in the laboratory be separated from the fat. This +same vitamine is present in a variety of food materials—in +whole milk, in egg yolks, in leaves of plants—but we have not +studied it long enough to know just how much spinach we can +substitute for a tablespoonful of butter so far as the vitamine is +concerned. We must await further investigations. But we may rest +assured that with a fairly liberal amount of milk and some green +vegetables, possibly some beef fat, we need not fear any disastrous +consequences from the substitution of some other fat for butter. +Where the diet is limited and the entire quantity of fat is not +very large, it seems prudent to select oleomargarine made largely +from beef oil and, where circumstances permit its use without the +sacrifice of any other dietary essential, to use butter in the diet +of growing children unless they get a full quart of milk apiece a +day.</p> +<p>Changing our food customs is difficult because it means also +changing our cooking customs. But many dishes can be made with less +fat than we are accustomed to put in or with different kinds from +those we have hitherto preferred. Often the fat from frying is left +in the pan to be washed out and thrown away. If every cook could +say to herself, “Every two drops of fat make a calorie and +every calorie counts in the world today,” it might seem more +worth while to hold the pan a minute and drain out the fat for +further use. A thousand calories mean a day’s life to a baby. +It is always more wholesome to cook foods so that they are not +coated with fat, and one may get brown products in a frying pan +without more than a thin film of fat to keep the food from +sticking. It is well to remember in this connection that the +unsalted lard substitutes are more satisfactory than the saltier +fat foods, in which there may be a trace of milk.</p> +<p>The thought that fat is fuel wherever we find it in food will +stiffen our resolution to take a little pains with the fats which +we have been wont to discard. Anyone can get from the Department of +Agriculture suggestions for the practical use of chicken, mutton, +beef, and other kinds of meat fats. The main points are to free +them from flavor, by melting them with milk or water, possibly +using some special absorbent like potato or charcoal too, and then +mixing hard and soft together, just as the oleomargarine-makers do, +to get such a degree of hardness as suits one’s purpose. All +this requires time and thought. Let no one dream that the patriotic +duties of the kitchen are trivial. Anything that is worth while +costs something; money, thought, labor—perhaps all three. To +salvage kitchen fat may not be economical in time and labor (though +it generally is more so than one might think), but there is more +time and labor than food available today. So it seems the +“bit” of the housekeeper to set a standard for her +family as to the amount of fat she will purchase per week, which is +at least one-fourth lower than their ordinary consumption, and to +depend upon special conservation of what may have gone to waste +hitherto for any increase in this allowance.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_7" name="Ch_7">CHAPTER VII</a></h2> +<h3>“SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE”</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>“Do come and taste how nice the burnt pig eats!” So +cried the miscreant son of Hati when his attempt to rescue his +father’s live-stock from utter destruction resulted (at least +according to Lamb) in adding one more delicacy to the table of +civilized man. That the “burnt pig” commended itself +instantly to the taste of other men is attested by the recklessness +with which they ignited their own houses to secure the new +sensation again.</p> +<p>Not all flavors make an immediate appeal. Many persons can mark +the time when they learned to like olives, or tomatoes, or tea. The +taste for some foods was acquired so early that there is no +consciousness of any time when they were not enjoyed, and the +impression prevails that the liking for such foods is instinctive. +Sometimes that is the case, but quite as often not. Children have +to be taught by patient repetition to like most of the common foods +which make the staples of the diet, and likings thus acquired are +as strong as those which seem more natural.</p> +<p>However taste be accounted for, we have to recognize the fact +that food is chosen for flavor more than for ultimate benefit. It +is one thing to say that oatmeal is more nutritious than bread and +coffee; it is quite another to induce a man to give up the latter +for the former! And yet the distinguishing characteristic of man is +that he can subjugate his immediate impulses for his future +benefit, or find a course that will harmonize the two—take +coffee with his oatmeal for instance, or find some way to flavor +it, perhaps with sugar.</p> +<p>Probably no one flavor is so universally enjoyed as sweetness. +“Sweeter than the honey in the honey comb” is an +ancient symbol of appreciation. When the sugar bowl is empty how +many things lose zest! Tea, coffee, cocoa, breakfast cereals, +fruit, might still be acceptable, but cake, pie, and ice cream are +unthinkable without sweetness; the soda fountain, the bakery, and +the candy shop bear further testimony to our love of sweets. Four +million tons of sugar a year for the American +people—eighty-five pounds apiece, nearly a quarter of a pound +apiece daily—this is no inconsiderable amount of +flavoring!</p> +<p>But is not sugar good food? Most assuredly. Three lumps of sugar +would furnish the extra energy needed to walk a mile; a quarter of +a pound represents about one-sixth of a man’s daily fuel +requirement. But one baked potato would furnish the same energy as +the three lumps of sugar; a quarter of a pound of cornstarch would +supply the same fuel as the quarter pound of sugar. Nutritionally +starch and sugar are interchangeable, the advantage as far as +digestion is concerned being with the starch rather than the sugar. +And yet we put sugar on starch! So much for instinct being a guide +to scientific food combinations!</p> +<p>The problem of doing without sugar is primarily a problem of +flavor—a problem of finding something else which is sweet. +Hence we turn our cornstarch into glucose (make corn syrup, for +example) outside the body instead of inside it, so that we can +taste the sweetness as it goes down. The main trouble with this +kind of sugar is that it is not sweet enough to satisfy us and we +are apt to use too much, thus endangering our digestions by sheer +concentration of what would be, in smaller quantities, most +wholesome. Once more we see that nutrition is largely a question of +<em>how much</em>; how much glucose or other sugar our stomachs can +stand we find out by experience; few stomachs can stand when empty +the quantity represented by a lollipop, and yet we frequently see +children allowed to suck these between meals. The same amount of +sugar diluted with water, as in a glass of lemonade, would do less +harm; it might be combined with flour in a cooky with more +impunity; better yet, it might be made a part of a whole meal, +taking it in several dishes (sauce, dessert, etc.), or, if we must +have it as candy, at the end of the meal. Used in this way, the +advantages of sugar as a food may be had with relatively little +disadvantage.</p> +<p>Honey, “the distilled sweetness of the flower,” +commands a price commensurate with the exquisiteness of its +production, but is not quite as easy of digestion as some other +forms of sugar. Because of its intense sweetness it may be combined +with advantage with less sweet syrups, such as corn syrup. The cook +estimates that by measure it will take one and a half times as much +corn syrup as cane sugar to get the customary effects in sweet +dishes. By using one part of honey to three of corn syrup a sweeter +product is obtained, which is free from several of the +disadvantages of honey in cookery.</p> +<p>Maple syrup and sugar are not only prized for their sweetness, +due to the presence of ordinary cane sugar, but for the delicate +“maple” flavor so difficult to duplicate. Nutritionally +a tablespoon of maple sugar is equivalent in fuel value to about +four-fifths of a tablespoon of cane sugar, while equal volumes of +cane molasses, corn syrup, and maple syrup are interchangeable as +fuel, though not of equal sweetening power.</p> +<p>Molasses is a less one-sided food than cane sugar or corn syrup. +The latter furnish nothing but fuel, and if used too freely not +only disturb digestion but tend to crowd out foods which yield +mineral salts. Molasses is quite rich in calcium, one tablespoonful +yielding as much as five ounces of milk, and is for this reason a +better sweet for growing children than ordinary sugar or corn syrup +when the amount of milk which they can have is limited, or when +fruits and vegetables are hard to get. Molasses ginger snaps make, +therefore, an excellent sweet for children, much better than candy, +but of course to be eaten only at meal time.</p> +<p>The aim of good home cooking should be to please the family with +what they ought to eat. The chef in a big hotel may have to prove +the superiority of his art over that of a rival chef, and vie with +him in novelty and elaboration, but the home cooking may be ever so +simple provided the result is a happy, well-nourished family. A +chocolate layer cake that takes two hours out of a day is no more +nourishing than the same materials served as poached eggs, bread +and butter, and a cup of chocolate. It is worth while to train a +family to enjoy the flavor of simply prepared foods, and to realize +that the food is the thing which counts and not the way it is +dressed up. On the other hand, if one has to use a few food +materials over and over, as one must in many places when the money +that can be spent for food is very little, it is by slight changes +in their form and flavor that one keeps them from palling on the +appetite. If one has to use beans every day, it is a good thing to +know a dozen different ways of preparing beans. One may have the +plain bean flavor, properly toned up by a suitable amount of salt; +the added flavor of onions, of tomatoes, of fat pork, of molasses, +or a combination of two or three. One may have plain oatmeal for +breakfast (the flavor developed by thorough cooking, at least three +or four hours in a double boiler or over night in a fireless +cooker); oatmeal flavored with apples in a pudding for dinner; or +oatmeal flavored with onions and tomatoes in a soup for supper; the +same food but quite different impressions on the palate.</p> +<p>Herbs and spices have from time immemorial given flavor to +man’s diet. “Leeks and garlic,” “anise and +cumin,” “salt and pepper,” “curry and bean +cheese,” are built into the very life of a people. The more +variety of natural foods we have the less dependent we are upon +such things. Our modern cooks, confronted in the present crisis +with restrictions in the number of foods which they may use, may +find in bay leaves, nutmeg, allspice, and all their kind, ways of +making acceptable the cereals which make a diet economical, the +peas and beans which replace at least a part of the meat, and dried +fruits and vegetables which save transportation of fresh or canned +goods.</p> +<p>Tea and coffee are both flavors and stimulants. They are used +literally by thousands to give flavor to bread or rice. Dependence +on a single flavor is apt to result in a desire to have it stronger +and stronger, and hence less and less wholesome. This is a good +reason for some variety of flavor; better tea one meal and coffee +another than the same one all the time. Too freely used, and made +too strong, tea and coffee may have a bad effect upon the nervous +as well as the digestive system. They should never be given to +children. It is better for adults to get their flavor from +something without such effects. Because the combination of bread +and coffee tastes good, one may be deceived into thinking himself +well nourished on a diet consisting of little else. And yet this is +a very inadequate diet for anybody, and disastrous to the normal +development of children. One must be on guard, then, lest +one’s desire for flavor be satisfied without the body’s +real needs being met.</p> +<p>The wise cook saves her best flavors for the foods which would +be least acceptable without them and does not add them to foods +which are good enough by themselves. The latter course marks the +insidious beginning of luxury. “Once give your family +luxuries and you are lost as far as satisfying them economically is +concerned,” remarked a clever housewife. “Even a rat +will not taste bread when bacon is nigh,” observed a sage +physiologist. The demand for flavor grows and grows with pampering, +till nothing but humming-birds’ tongues and miniature geese +floating in a sea of aspic jelly will satisfy the palate of him who +eats solely for flavor—who never knows the sauce of hunger, +or the deliciousness of a plain crust of bread. We must be on +guard, saying, like the little daughter of a classical professor, +“If Scylla doesn’t get me Charybdis will.” Flavor +we must have, but not too much, not too many kinds at once, and not +applied indiscriminately to foods which need them and foods which +do not. The wise cook uses her arts to secure the proper +nourishment of the family and not for her fame as “a good +cook.”</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_8" name="Ch_8">CHAPTER VIII</a></h2> +<h3>ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>Who does not sigh for the fairy table that comes at the pressing +of a button? It is invariably laden with the most tempting viands, +satisfies beyond words, and disappears when the meal is over, +leaving behind no problem of leftovers or planning for the next +meal! No money, no work, no thought, only sheer enjoyment. Alas, +how different is the world of fact! Even if we have plenty of money +we cannot escape from the thought of food today. There is +imperative need for saving of food materials; at best there will +not be enough to go around, and all the world, ourselves included, +will suffer in proportion as we neglect the duty of food +conservation. To be economical in the use of food materials +according to the program of the Food Administration may, probably +will, demand the spending of more money, time, and thought upon +food. If we have the money and time to spend, well and good; but if +we have not, how shall we do our share in sending more +“wheat, meat, sugar and fats to our soldiers, sailors and +allies”?</p> +<p>Thousands of people had to practice strict economy before the +war began. They have no more money than they had then and the cost +of food has increased. Certainly the first duty of everyone is to +secure sufficient nourishment to avoid the undermining of health +and strength which is sure to follow inadequate food. But we must +all remember that it is possible to make a great many changes in +diet without altering food value, and that there are few diets +which cannot be so rearranged as to give a better nutritive return +on the money spent than is usually secured by our haphazard methods +of planning meals. Saving of waste is commendable and will go a +long way, but this is a kind of passive service; loyal citizens +ought to be active participants in the food conservation movement, +which is a movement to distribute food in the way which shall +promote the efficiency of our allies and ourselves in this world +upheaval. To do this without increasing the cost of one’s +diet requires a careful study of the situation. No one can give +precise rules as to how it shall be done, but perhaps a few +suggestions as to the underlying principles will help in +determining a dietary plan which shall be economical and still in +line with the general policy.</p> +<p>The same nutritive essentials must be supplied whether the cost +of the diet be much or little. A moderately active man needs some +3,000 calories per day whether his activity be playing golf or +working on a farm; whether his board bill be $3.00 a day or $3.00 a +week. In both cases there must be suitable kinds and amounts of +protein-bearing food, of other “building materials,” +and those substances which directly or indirectly affect the smooth +running of the body machinery; nevertheless, these two diets, +closely alike in nutritive value, may be very dissimilar in their +superficial appearance. For instance, all the nutritive +requirements may be met in a ration composed of three food +materials, as milk, whole wheat bread, and apples; on the other +hand, by one composed of canvas-back duck, truffles, lettuce, +celery, cranberries, white bread and butter, cream, coffee, and +perhaps a dozen other items. We love all the various sensations +that come from the mingling in a meal of food hot and cold, moist +and dry, crisp and soft, sweet and sour, exhibiting the artistic +touch as well as the homelier virtues; it is the sacrifice of +pleasure of the esthetic sort that food economy and to some extent +food conservation entail.</p> +<p>The first step in food economy (aside from saving of waste) is +to emphasize the use of cereal foods. As much as one-fourth the +food money may be invested in grain products without nutritive +disadvantage. But this is not the last word on the subject, since +cereal foods, while cheap, differ among themselves in cost and +somewhat in nutritive value. It is possible to confine one’s +choice to some which contribute little besides fuel to the diet, +such as rice and white flour, or to include those which are rich in +other essentials, such as oatmeal. It is difficult to express +briefly this difference in foods in any concrete fashion, but +recently a method of grading or “scoring” foods has +been introduced which may help to make clearer the relationship +between nutritive value and general economy.</p> +<p>We cannot live exclusively upon foods which furnish nothing but +fuel, though fuel is the largest item in the diet and one which in +an effort to economize is apt to fall short; hence a food which +furnishes nothing but fuel will not have as high a +“score” as a food which will at the same time supply +certain amounts of other essentials, such as protein, calcium +(lime), iron, and the like. By giving definite values to each of +the dietary essentials taken into consideration and comparing the +yield of these from different foods, we may have such a score as +follows:<sup>1</sup><span class="sidenote">1. For the method of +calculation and further data see "The Adequacy and Economy of Some +City Dietaries" by H.C. Sherman and L.H. Gillett, published by The +New York Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor, 105 +East Twenty-second Street, New York City, from which these figures +are taken.</span></p> +<table summary="cereal food values" style= +"width:60%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;">Grain products</td> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;text-align:right;" width= +"50%">Score value per pound</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>White flour</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,257</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Graham flour</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">2,150</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Rye flour</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,459</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>White bread</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,060</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Graham bread</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,525</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Cornmeal</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,360</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Oatmeal</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">2,465</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Cream of wheat</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,370</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hominy</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,147</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Corn flakes</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,090</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>By comparing the score with the price per pound we can easily +see which contributes most to the diet as a whole for the money +expended. Thus, if hominy and oatmeal cost the same, the oatmeal is +more than twice as cheap because we not only get a little more fuel +from it but we also get protein, calcium, iron, and phosphorus in +considerably larger amounts; that is, we shall need less of other +foods with oatmeal than we shall with hominy. This does not mean +that hominy is not an excellent and a cheap food, but it does mean +that when the strictest economy must be practiced it pays to buy +oatmeal. The task of the housewife is to find out how much she can +make acceptable to her family; how much she can serve as breakfast +food, how much in muffins and bread, how much in soups and +puddings. This economy is strictly in harmony with the principles +of food conservation—saving of wheat, so hard to do without +entirely, so easy to dispense with in part.</p> +<p>Cornmeal gives as good a nutritive return per pound as cream of +wheat, so that as long as the price of cornmeal is not higher than +that of the wheat product it is both good economy and good +patriotism to use it as far as one can. And, even if cornmeal +should be dearer than wheat, one can save money by increasing the +proportion of cereals in the diet so as to be able to be patriotic +without increasing the food bill.</p> +<p>A second measure which generally makes for food economy is to +emphasize the use of dried fruits and vegetables. The score of some +of these foods almost speaks for itself:</p> +<table summary="fruit and vegetable food values" style= +"width:60%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;">Dried fruits and +vegetables</td> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;text-align:right;" width= +"50%">Score value per pound</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beans</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">3,350</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Peas</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">2,960</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Apples</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">955</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dates</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,240</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Figs</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,782</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Prunes</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,135</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Raisins</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,550</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" style="text-decoration:underline;">Fresh fruits and +vegetables</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beans</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">472</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Peas</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">475</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Apples</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">156</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Bananas</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">236</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Oranges</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">228</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Peaches</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">138</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Pears</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">228</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>From the foregoing it is evident that, unless the cost of a +pound of fresh apples is less than one-fifth that of dried ones, +the dried will be cheaper; that if dates and raisins cost the same +per pound they are equally economical to buy. It may be noted, too, +that the return on a pound of dried fruit may be quite as good in +its way as the return on a pound of a grain product, but they will +be equally cheap only when they cost the same per pound in the +market. Here, again, there is no incompatibility between economy +and conservation of special foods. Even in the case of beans is +this true, for, while certain kinds are wanted for the army and +navy, there are dozens of kinds of beans; one may count it as part +of one’s service to find out where these can be obtained, how +they are best cooked and served. Soy beans commend themselves for +their nutritive value, but how many American housewives have made +them a part of their food program? How many have tried to buy them +or asked their dealers to secure them?</p> +<p>A third step in the program of economy is the reduction of the +amount of meat consumed. In many American families at least +one-third the food money is spent for meat. That there are adequate +substitutes which may be used to reduce the amount of meat bought +has been already shown. Saving of meat is one of the most important +planks in the food conservation program; so here again there is no +inevitable conflict between conservation and economy. Some meat is +desirable for flavor if it can possibly be afforded, but no +economically inclined person should set aside more than one-fourth +to one-fifth of the food money for it. How much one will get +depends upon the kind and cut selected. There is not so much +difference in the nutritive value as there is in the cost, as the +following examples of “meat scores” will show:</p> +<table summary="meat and fish food values" style= +"width:60%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;">Meat and fish</td> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;text-align:right;" width= +"50%">Score value per pound</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beef, lean round</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,664</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beef, medium fat rump</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,221</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beef, porterhouse steak</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,609</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Veal, lean leg</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,539</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Lamb, medium fat leg</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,320</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Fowl</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,453</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Codfish, salt</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,710</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Codfish, fresh<sup>2</sup><span class="sidenote">2. The low +score of fresh cod is due chiefly to the absence of fat and the +presence of water.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">519</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Salmon, canned</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,074</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The great value of milk in the diet has already been discussed. +The “score” of milk is about the same as that for sugar +(milk, 761; sugar, 725); hence, if sugar is ten cents a pound and +milk eighteen-cents a quart (about nine cents per pound), milk is +cheaper than sugar. Yet there are people cutting down their milk +supply when the cost is only thirteen or fourteen cents per quart +on the ground that milk is too expensive! The economical housewife +should have no compunctions in spending from one-fifth to +one-fourth of her food money for this almost indispensable food. +Whether the free use of milk will be good food conservation as well +as good economy depends upon the supply. If there is not enough to +go around, babies and the poor should have the first claim upon it +and the rest of the world should try to get along with something +less economical.</p> +<p>A pound of eggs (eight or nine eggs) gives about the same +nutritive return as a pound of medium fat beef, but to be as cheap +as beef at thirty cents a pound, eggs must not cost over forty-five +cents a dozen. Eggs must be counted among the expensive foods, to +be used very sparingly indeed in the economical diet. Nevertheless +the use of eggs as a means of saving meat is a rational food +conservation movement, to be encouraged where means permit.</p> +<p>The saving of sugar, while a necessary conservation measure, is +contrary to general food economy, since sugar is a comparatively +cheap fuel food and has the great additional value of popularity. +Sugar substitutes are not all as cheap as sugar by any means, but +molasses, on account of its large amount of mineral salts, +especially of calcium, has a score value of 2,315 as against 725 +for granulated sugar, and may be regarded with favor by those both +economically and patriotically inclined.</p> +<p>In the case of fats, practical economy consists in paying for +fuel value and not for flavor. The score values for butter, lard, +olive oil, and cottonseed oil are about the same. The cheapest fat +is the one whose face value per pound (or market cost) is the +lowest. Fats are not as cheap as milk and cereals if they cost over +ten cents per pound. The best way to economize is by saving the fat +bought with meat, using other fats without much flavor, and cutting +the total fat in the diet to a very small amount, not over two +ounces per person per day. This is also good food conservation, +since fats are almost invaluable in rationing an army, and those +with decidedly agreeable flavor are needed to make a limited diet +palatable.</p> +<p>No program either of economy or food conservation can cater to +individual likes and dislikes in the same way that an unrestricted +choice of food can. If one does not like cereals it is hard to +consume them just to save money, especially to the extent of ten to +fifteen ounces of grain products in a day. Yet one might as well +recognize that in this direction the lowering of the cost of the +diet inevitably lies. If one does not like corn, it is hard to +substitute corn bread for wheat bread. But one might as well open +one’s mind to the fact that the only way to put off the day +when there will be no white bread to eat is to begin eating +cornmeal now. Most of us want to eat our cake and keep it +too—to enjoy our food and not pay for our pleasure; to do our +duty towards our country and not feel any personal inconvenience. +But the magic table of the fairy tale is not for a nation at war; +food is not going to come at the pressing of a button during this +conflict. If we are to escape bankruptcy and win the war we must +eat to be nourished and not to be entertained.</p> +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a id="Appx" name="Appx">APPENDIX</a></h2> +<h3>SOME WAR TIME RECIPES</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>The following recipes illustrate some of the practical +applications of the principles discussed in the foregoing pages. +They have been selected from various publications, a list of which +is given below. The numbers following the titles of the recipes +correspond with the numbers of the publications in this list.</p> +<ol> +<li>Canned Salmon: Cheaper than Meats and Why, U.S. Department of +Commerce, Bureau of Fisheries, Economic Circular No. 11</li> +<li>Cheese and its Economical Use in the Home, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers’ Bulletin No. 487</li> +<li>Economical Diet and Cookery in Time of Emergency, Teachers +College, Columbia University, Technical Education Bulletin No. 30 +4. Food, Bulletin of the Life Extension Institute, 25 West 45th +Street, New York City</li> +<li>Honey and its Uses in the Home, U. S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers’ Bulletin No. 653</li> +<li>How to Select Food: Foods Rich in Protein, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers’ Bulletin No. 824</li> +<li>Meat Substitutes, Connecticut Agricultural College, Emergency +Food Series, No. 10</li> +<li>Ninety Tested, Palatable and Economic Recipes, Teachers +College, Columbia University, Technical Educational Bulletin No. +34</li> +<li>Recipes of New York City Food Aid Committee, 280 Madison +Avenue, New York City</li> +<li>Recipes in The Farmer’s Wife, St. Paul, Minnesota, +September, 1917</li> +<li>Some Sugar Saving Sweets for Every Day, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Teachers College Record, November, 1917</li> +<li>War Economy in Food, Bulletin of the United States Food +Administration</li> +<li>Waste of Meat in the Home, Cornell Reading Course for the Farm +Home, Lesson 109</li> +</ol> +<hr class="short" /> +<h3>BREAD AND MUFFINS</h3> +<h4>Corn Meal and Wheat Bread (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Wheat flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Corn syrup, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Cold water, 1¼ cups</li> +<li>Lukewarm water, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Yeast, 1 cake</li> +</ul> +<p>Pour cold water gradually over corn meal and salt. Cook over +water for 20 minutes. Add fat and syrup. Allow to cool to room +temperature. Add yeast which has been softened in the lukewarm +water. Add flour gradually, stirring or kneading thoroughly after +each addition of flour. Knead lightly for 10 or 15 minutes. Shape +into a loaf. Let rise until double in bulk. Bake in a moderate oven +(360-380°) for about an hour. (The amount of corn meal may be +reduced if one desires a loaf with the characteristics of wheat +bread.)</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corn Meal and Rye Bread (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Lukewarm water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Yeast, 1 cake</li> +<li>Salt, ½ tablespoon</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Rye flour, 1 cup</li> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 3 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Soften yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix +thoroughly. Let rise, shape, let rise again and bake.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Sour Milk Corn Bread (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 1 pint</li> +<li>Soda, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Baking powder, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Sour milk, 1 pint</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Lard (melted), 1 ½ tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Slightly beat the egg, add milk, salt, and soda. Stir in the +meal. Beat well. Add melted lard and baking powder. Bake in hot +greased pan. Cut in squares and serve. Do not have batter too +stiff.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Eggless Corn Muffins (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Pastry flour (sifted), ½ cup</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Melted butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix dry ingredients and add milk and melted butter. Put in +greased muffin pan and bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oat Bread (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Boiling water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ½ tablespoon</li> +<li>½ yeast cake, dissolved in ½ cup lukewarm +water</li> +<li>Rolled oats (dry), 1 cup</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Flour, 4½ cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Add boiling water to the rolled oats, stir well and let stand +for one hour. Add molasses, salt, fat, dissolved yeast cake, and +flour; let the dough rise to double its bulk, beat well, and turn +into greased bread pans, let rise the second time, and bake about +one hour in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oatmeal Muffins (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cooked oatmeal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Baking powder, 4 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Melted butterine, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the egg +well beaten and one-half the milk. Mix the remainder of the milk +with the cereal, and beat in thoroughly. Then add the butter. Bake +in buttered muffin or gem tins about 30 minutes in a moderate +oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>War Time Boston Brown Bread</h4> +<ul> +<li>Rye meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Finely ground oatmeal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Milk, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Soda, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Molasses, 1 cup</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until +well mixed, turn into a well-greased mold, and steam three and +one-half hours. The cover should be greased before being placed on +mold. The mold should never be filled more than two-thirds full. A +one-pound baking powder box makes the most attractive shaped loaf +for steaming; place mold on a trivet in kettle containing boiling +water, allowing water to come half-way up around mold; cover +closely and steam, adding as needed more boiling water. One cup +chopped peanuts and 1 cup of cut dates may be added.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rice Bread (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Sugar, 6 tablespoons</li> +<li>Fat, 4 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Compressed yeast, ½ cake, softened in ¼ cup +liquid</li> +<li>Boiled rice, 7 cups</li> +<li>Flour, 8 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>This proportion makes two loaves of bread.</p> +<p>Scald the milk with sugar, salt, and fat. Let cool until +lukewarm and pour over the boiled rice. Add yeast which has been +softened in one-quarter cupful warm water. Stir in flour and knead. +Let rise until double its bulk. Knead again and put into pans. Let +rise until light and bake 50 minutes to one hour in a moderate +oven.</p> +<p><em>The rice should be boiled in a large quantity of boiling +water</em>, in order to insure a dry rice. At least eight or ten +times as much water as rice should be used.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Eggless Rye Muffins (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Rye flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Baking powder, 4 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Sugar, 4 teaspoons</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Melted butter or other fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift the dry ingredients; add the milk and melted fat. +Mix quickly, do not beat. Bake in greased muffin pans 20 minutes in +a hot oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rye Corn Meal Muffins (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, ½ cup</li> +<li>Rye flour, 1 cup</li> +<li>Baking powder, 3 teaspoons</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Melted butter, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Milk, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift dry ingredients, beat egg, add to it milk and +molasses, then stir liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Do not +beat. Place in well-greased muffin tins and bake in moderate oven +25 to 30 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rye Rolls (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Water, 1 cup</li> +<li>Fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Yeast cakes, 2</li> +<li>Water, 6 tablespoons</li> +<li>Rye flour, 4 cups</li> +<li>White flour, 4 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Scald the milk with the salt, sugar, and fat. Soften the yeast +in the six tablespoonfuls of water.</p> +<p>Cool the milk by adding the rest of the water cold, stir in the +yeast and flour, and knead. Let rise until double in bulk. Knead +again and shape into rolls. Let rise until very light and bake.</p> +<hr /> +<h3>CAKE AND COOKIES</h3> +<h4>Apple Sauce Cake (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Sugar, 1 cup</li> +<li>Butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Apple sauce, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Raisins, ⅔ cup</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the soda, spices, salt, and flour. Cream the +butter, add sugar, apple sauce, dry ingredients, and seeded +raisins. Bake in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Buckwheat Cookies (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Butterine, ½ cup</li> +<li>Sugar, 1 cup</li> +<li>Eggs, 2</li> +<li>Clove, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Buckwheat, 1 ¾ cups</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Beat the eggs, add the sugar and melted butter, and beat until +thoroughly mixed. Sift the buckwheat, spices, and salt together and +add very slowly. Mix well; roll on a floured board one-eighth to +one-sixteenth inch thick. Cut the cookies and bake on a greased +baking sheet in a moderate oven about 10 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Honey Bran Cookies (5)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Bran, 3 cups</li> +<li>Sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Soda, ¼ to ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Honey, ½ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Melted butter, ½ cup</li> +</ul> +<!-- Transcriber's note: there are no instructions with this ingredient list. --> +<h4>Soft Honey Cake (5)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Butter, ½ cup</li> +<li>Honey, 1 cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Sour milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Flour, 4 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Rub the butter and honey together; add the egg well beaten, then +the sour milk and the flour sifted with the soda and spices. Bake +in a shallow pan.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Molasses Cakes (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Fat, ½ cup</li> +<li>Molasses, 1 cup</li> +<li>Ginger, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Flour, 2 ½ cups</li> +<li>Soda, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Hot water, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the salt, sugar, flour, soda, and spices. Melt +butter in hot water, add molasses, egg well beaten, and dry +ingredients. Mix well. Bake in small cup cake tins in a moderate +oven for about 25 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Molasses Cookies (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Flour, 2¾ cups</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Molasses, 1 cup</li> +<li>Hot water, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, ¼ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the flour, salt, soda, and ginger. Melt fat; add +hot water and molasses; stir this liquid gradually into the dry +ingredients. Chill. Roll on floured board to one-eighth inch +thickness. Cut. Bake about 10 minutes in a moderate oven +(360-380° F.).</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Nut Molasses Bars (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Oleomargarine, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Boiling water, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Brown sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Flour, 3⅔ cups</li> +<li>Ginger, ⅓ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cocoanut, ½ cup</li> +<li>English walnuts, ½ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Pour boiling water over fat; add sugar and molasses; add flour, +soda, spices, and salt sifted together. Chill. Roll one-eighth inch +thick. Cut in strips about three and a half by one inch. Sprinkle +with cocoanut and English walnuts cut in small pieces.</p> +<p>Bake about 10 minutes in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oatmeal Cookies (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Water, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Fine oatmeal, ½ cup</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Raisins, 1 cup</li> +<li>Melted fat, 5 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the +oatmeal. Beat the egg add sugar, water, and milk, dry ingredients +mixed together, raisins, and melted fat. Drop from spoon on greased +baking sheet and bake in moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oatmeal Macaroons (12)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Corn syrup, 3/8 cup</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Almond extract if desired, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Oatmeal, 1 ½ cups</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Baking powder, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Flour, 1½ tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Combine the melted fat and sugar and syrup, add the beaten egg +and stir in the other ingredients. Drop from a teaspoon on greased +baking sheets or pans and bake in a moderate oven about 15 +minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Potato Drop Cookies (13)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hot mashed potatoes, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Sugar, 1¼ cups</li> +<li>Beef or mutton fat, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 1¾ cups</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Cinnamon, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Raisins, chopped, ½ cup</li> +<li>Nuts, chopped, ¼ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Combine the ingredients in the order given and drop the mixture +by spoonfuls on a slightly greased tin. Bake the cookies in a +moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Spice Cake (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, 3½ tablespoons</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Corn syrup, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Flour, 1 cup (plus 1½ tablespoons)</li> +<li>Baking powder, 1¼ teaspoons</li> +<li>Chopped citron, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Raisins, cut in half, ½ cup</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Clove, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Cream fat; add sugar gradually, syrup, egg well beaten; mix and +sift dry ingredients; add alternately with milk to first mixture. +Add raisins (which have been rolled in a little of the flour), +mixing them through the cake thoroughly.</p> +<p>Bake about 30 minutes in a moderate oven (about 380° +F.).</p> +<hr /> +<h3>JAMS AND SANDWICH FILLINGS</h3> +<h4>Banana and Nut Paste for Sandwiches (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Banana, 1</li> +<li>Shelled peanuts, ¼ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the banana with the shelled peanuts, which have been +crushed. Salt to taste. Use as a filling for sandwiches.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Carrot Marmalade (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Carrots, 3 pounds</li> +<li>Sugar, 3 pounds</li> +<li>Lemon, 1 (juice and grated rind)</li> +<li>Oranges, 2 (juice and grated rind)</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash, scrape, and steam carrots until soft; chop fine and mix +with fruit and sugar. Cook gently one hour.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Date and Cranberry Marmalade (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cranberries, 1 quart</li> +<li>Dates, stoned, 1 pound</li> +<li>Water, 1 pint</li> +<li>Brown sugar, 2 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Simmer together for 20 minutes cranberries, dates, and water; +put through a sieve; add sugar and cook 15 minutes longer.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Dried Apricot Conserve (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Dried apricots, ½ pound (1⅔ cups)</li> +<li>Cold water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Raisins, 1 cup</li> +<li>Juice of 1 lemon</li> +<li>Whole orange, 1</li> +<li>Nuts, ½ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak apricots over night in cold water. When soaked add raisins, +lemon juice, orange sliced very thin, with slices cut in small +pieces, and corn syrup. Bring to boiling point and simmer for about +one and one-quarter hours. Add nuts 15 minutes before taking from +fire.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Fruit and Peanut Butter (for Sandwiches) (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Dates, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Figs, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Peanut butter, ½ cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Lemon juice, 1½ tablespoons</li> +<li>Raisins, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash figs, raisins, and dates, and put through food chopper. Add +salt, peanut butter, lemon juice, and corn syrup, and mix well.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Plum Conserve (without sugar) (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Pitted plums, 1 pound (2 dozen plums)</li> +<li>Raisins, ⅓ pound</li> +<li>Cold water, ½ cup</li> +<li>Walnuts, 1/8 pound (¼ cup)</li> +<li>Oranges, 2</li> +<li>Corn syrup, ⅓ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash and cut plums in pieces: add chopped raisins, orange pulp +and peel, cut very fine; corn syrup and water; boil until it is of +the consistency of marmalade (about one and one-half hours of slow +cooking). Add walnuts five minutes before removing from fire.</p> +<hr /> +<h3>SUBSTANTIAL HOT DISHES</h3> +<h4>Baked Barley (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Barley, ½ cup</li> +<li>Boiling water, 3 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Left over gravy, ¾ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak barley over night. Drain. Cook in boiling salted water +until tender. Drain. Add left over gravy and bake for 20 minutes in +a moderate oven. If one has a meat bone, or left over bits of meat, +these may be boiled with the barley to give it flavor.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Beef and Bean Stew (6)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Beef, lower round, 1 pound</li> +<li>Red kidney beans, 1 cup</li> +<li>Onion, 1</li> +<li>Canned tomatoes, 1 cup, or 2 or 3 fresh tomatoes</li> +<li>Salt pork, 2 ounces</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash the beans and soak them over night. Cut the pork into small +pieces and try out the fat. Cut the beef into small pieces and +brown it in the pork fat, then add the vegetables with water enough +to cover. Cook just below the boiling point for about three +hours.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cheese Fondue (2)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk (hot), 1⅓ cups</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 1⅓ cups</li> +<li>Butter, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Eggs, 4</li> +<li>Cheese, ⅓ pound (1⅓ cups grated or 1 cup cut in +pieces)</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the water, bread crumbs, salt, and cheese; add the yolks +thoroughly beaten; into this mixture cut and fold the whites of +eggs beaten until stiff. Pour into a buttered dish and cook 30 +minutes in a moderate oven. Serve at once.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corned Beef Hash with Vegetables (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corned beef (cold, left over), 1½ cups</li> +<li>Dice potatoes (cooked), 2¼ cups</li> +<li>Turnips (cooked), 1 cup</li> +<li>Onion, chopped fine, 1 small</li> +<li>Carrots (cooked), ½ cup</li> +<li>Water, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut the meat into small pieces. Add cooked vegetables cut into +small cubes, onion and water. Put fat into hot frying pan, add hash +and cook for about 20 minutes, allowing the hash to brown. Other +left over meat may be added to corned beef, or used instead of +corned beef.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corn Meal Scrapple (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Shin of beef, 2 pounds</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Onion, 1 medium</li> +<li>Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cold water, 2 quarts</li> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Cook onion thinly sliced in beef marrow or suet. Add to water +with meat and bone and cook until meat is tender. Let cool, skim +off fat, and remove bone. To liquid remaining, add enough water to +make one quart. Add corn meal and salt and cook one hour. Turn into +a mold, cool, cut in slices, and fry in pork fat until brown. Serve +with or without gravy.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corn Chowder (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn, ¼ can</li> +<li>Salt pork, 1½ inch cube</li> +<li>Potato cut in slices, 1 medium</li> +<li>Milk, 2 cups</li> +<li>Boiling water, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Sliced onion, 1/8</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt and pepper</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. Add the onion and +cook for about five minutes. Strain the fat into a stew pan. Cook +the potatoes for about five minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, +and add the potatoes to the fat. Add the boiling water and cook +until the potatoes are soft. Then add corn and milk and heat to the +boiling point. Add the salt, pepper, sugar, and butter. Serve +immediately after adding butter.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cottage Cheese and Nut Loaf (12)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cottage cheese, 1 cup</li> +<li>Nut meats (use those locally grown), 1 cup</li> +<li>Stale bread crumbs, 1 cup</li> +<li>Juice of ½ lemon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Chopped onion, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Oleomargarine, meat drippings or vegetable oils, 1 +tablespoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the cheese, ground nuts, crumbs, lemon juice, salt, and +pepper. Cook the onion in the fat and a little water until tender. +Add to the first mixture the onion and sufficient water or meat +stock to moisten. Mix well, pour into a baking dish, and brown in +the oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Dried Fish Chowder (7)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Salt fish, ½ pound</li> +<li>Potatoes, cut in small pieces, 4 cups</li> +<li>Salt pork, 2 ounces</li> +<li>Small onion, chopped, 1</li> +<li>Skim milk, 4 cups</li> +<li>Crackers, 4 ounces</li> +</ul> +<p>Salt codfish, smoked halibut, or other dried fish may be used in +this chowder. Pick over and shred the fish, holding it under +lukewarm water. Let it soak while the other ingredients of the dish +are being prepared. Cut the pork into small pieces and fry it with +the onion until both are a delicate brown; add the potatoes, cover +with water, and cook until the potatoes are soft. Add the milk and +fish and reheat. Salt, if necessary. It is well to allow the +crackers to soak in the milk while the potatoes are being cooked, +then remove them, and finally add to the chowder just before +serving.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Gevech (Roumanian Recipe) (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Shredded cabbage, 1¼ cups</li> +<li>Chopped onion, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Rice, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Diced potatoes, ¾ cup</li> +<li>½ green pepper cut into strips</li> +<li>Fish, ¾ pound</li> +<li>Canned tomato, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Water, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Parboil cabbage, onion, rice, potatoes, and green pepper +together in salted water for 20 minutes. Drain. Clean fish, cut +into small pieces, and mix with parboiled vegetables, canned +tomatoes, water, and seasonings. Bake in a moderate oven for about +40 minutes. Baste occasionally while cooking. Serve with a garnish +of sliced lemon.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Kidney Bean Stew (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Kidney beans, 1 cup</li> +<li>Onion, 1 small</li> +<li>Rice, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Canned tomatoes, 2 cups</li> +<li>Fat or drippings, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Flour, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt and pepper to taste</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak beans over night in cold water to cover. In the morning +place beans over fire, adding water to cover if necessary. Add +onion, rice and tomatoes and cook slowly until beans are soft. If +too thick, add water. Mix flour and fat, and use to thicken +stew.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Baked Oatmeal with Cheese (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cooked oatmeal, 4 cups</li> +<li>Grated cheese, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt and pepper</li> +<li>Soft bread crumbs, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 1 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Put into an oiled baking dish a layer of left over oatmeal, then +a sprinkling of grated cheese, pepper and salt, another layer of +oatmeal, then cheese and seasonings; continue until the dish is +full. Melt the fat and mix with this the bread crumbs. Sprinkle +over the top of the dish. Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs +are golden brown.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Green Pea Loaf with White Sauce (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Dried green peas, 1 cup</li> +<li>Cold water, 4 cups</li> +<li>Boiling water, 2 quarts</li> +<li>Soft, stale bread crumbs, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Milk, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Grated onion, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak peas in cold water over night. Cook in boiling water until +soft. Rub through a sieve. To one cup of this pea pulp add bread +crumbs, milk, seasoning, egg (slightly beaten), and melted fat. +Turn mixture into a small, oiled bread pan. Set pan into a second +pan, containing water. Bake mixture 40 minutes or until firm. +Remove loaf from pan. Serve with white sauce. One-half cup of +cheese may be added to one and one-half cups of the sauce.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Mock Sausage (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Lima beans, dried, ½ cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, ⅓ cup</li> +<li>Butter, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Pepper, few grains</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Sage, ½ to ¾ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Pick over and wash beans, cover with water, and let soak over +night. Drain; cook in boiling salted water until tender, about one +and one-half hours. Force through a strainer, add remaining +ingredients. Shape into form of sausages, roll in crumbs, egg, and +crumbs again. Sauté in fat until brown. It requires about +two-thirds cup crumbs and one-half egg for dipping sausage. May be +garnished with fried apples.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Baked Soy or Togo Beans (6)</h4> +<p>Soy beans, known in the retail market as togo beans, resemble +navy beans in some ways. They contain, however, a considerable +amount of fat. For this reason neither pork nor other fat is used +in cooking them unless it is wanted for flavor. They are +considerably richer in protein also.</p> +<p>Wash and pick over one quart of soy beans. Cover with boiling +water, boil for 10 minutes, and soak over night in the same water. +In the morning pour off and save the water. Pour cold water over +the beans and rub them between the hands to remove the skins, which +will float off in the water. Removing the skins in this way takes +only two or three minutes and greatly improves the quality of the +dish. If a few skins are left on, they will do no harm, unless the +dish is being prepared for a person of poor digestion. Drain the +beans, pour over them the water in which they were soaked, and cook +until tender at a temperature just below the boiling point. Pour +off the water, put the beans into a bean pot, cover with cold +water, add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of salt, and bake four +or five hours in a covered dish. Remove the cover and bake one hour +more.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Loaf (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Chopped peanuts, 1 cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 2 cups</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Paprika, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Melted fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix dry ingredients, add beaten egg and milk. Put into a greased +pan, pour the melted fat on top, bake. Turn on a hot platter and +serve with sauce.</p> +<h4>Sauce for Loaf</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hot water, 1 cup</li> +<li>Beef cube, 1</li> +<li>Juice 1 lemon</li> +<li>Fat, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Flour, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Few grains nutmeg</li> +</ul> +<p>Melt fat, add flour with seasoning, add hot water in which beef +cube has been dissolved. Just before serving add lemon juice.</p> +<p>This nut loaf with its accompanying sauce is a highly nutritious +dish and is excellent for lunch or supper. Serve no meat or +potatoes with it.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Butter Bean Loaf (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Peanut butter, ½ cup</li> +<li>Cooked beans, 1 cup</li> +<li>Soft bread crumbs (toasted), 1 cup</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>The beans should be soaked over night and cooked in fresh water +until tender. Press through a sieve, add other ingredients, mix +well. Shape into a loaf, place in pan, and bake about two hours, +basting with melted fat and hot water.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Butter Cream Soup (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, 1 quart</li> +<li>Onion (grated), 1 small</li> +<li>Flour, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Melted fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Peanut butter, 1 cup</li> +<li>Bay leaf, 1</li> +<li>Celery (chopped) 3 stalks</li> +<li>Celery salt, 1 saltspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>A little white pepper</li> +<li>Dash of paprika</li> +</ul> +<p>Heat milk in a double boiler, add peanut butter, onion, bay +leaf, chopped celery, and other seasoning. While the milk is +heating, melt fat in a separate sauce pan, stirring in flour as for +cream sauce. When smooth add the hot milk, after straining through +a sieve. Serve at once with croutons or tiny squares of bread +browned till crisp.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Fondue (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Peanuts, shelled, 1 cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs (soft), 1 cup</li> +<li>Milk, 1⅔ cups</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Cayenne</li> +</ul> +<p>Grind peanuts in a meat grinder. Mix all ingredients except the +white of the egg. Beat the egg white stiff and fold in. Turn into a +buttered pudding dish and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 35 +minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Soup (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Blanched shelled peanuts, 2 cups</li> +<li>Onion, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Celery, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Carrot, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Water, 2½ cups</li> +<li>Fat, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Flour, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Milk, 2 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Chop and crush the nuts until very fine; add the vegetables and +water; simmer 20 minutes. Make a white sauce of the other +ingredients, mix the two mixtures thoroughly and serve.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Potato Soup with Carrots (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Potatoes, 3 medium</li> +<li>Water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Flour, 4 tablespoons</li> +<li>Soup greens</li> +<li>Onion, 2 slices</li> +<li>Sprigs of parsley</li> +<li>Milk, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Carrot, 1</li> +<li>Fat, 1½ tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt and pepper</li> +<li>Stalk of celery</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash and pare potatoes. Cook in boiling salted water until they +are soft. Rub through colander. Use water in which potatoes were +cooked to make up the two cups of water for the soup. Cook carrot +cut in cubes in boiling water until soft; drain. Scald milk with +onion, celery, and parsley. Add milk and water to potatoes. Melt +fat in sauce pan, add flour, and cook for three minutes. Slowly add +soup, stirring constantly. Boil for one minute, season with salt +and pepper. Add cubes of carrots and serve.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Salmon en Casserole (1)</h4> +<p>Cook one cup of rice. When cold line baking dish. Take one can +of salmon and flake. Beat two eggs, one-third cup of milk, one +tablespoon of butter, pinch of salt, dash of paprika. Stir into the +salmon lightly, cover lightly with rice. Steam one hour, serve with +white sauce. (This may also be made with barley instead of +rice.)</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Scalloped Salmon (1)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Salmon, 1 can</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Milk, 1 pint</li> +<li>Flour, 2 rounding tablespoons</li> +<li>Butter, 1½ tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Put the milk on stove in double boiler, keeping out one-half +cup. Mix butter and flour to a smooth paste, and add the egg well +beaten, then the one-half cup of cold milk. Mix well and then stir +into the milk, which should be scalding. Stir until smooth and +thick like gravy. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to +cool. Butter a baking dish and fill with alternate layers of flaked +salmon and the cream dressing. The top layer should be of the +dressing. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and bake one-half hour in +moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Salmon Loaf (1)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Salmon, 1 small can</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Cracker crumbs, 1 cup</li> +<li>Sweet milk, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Paprika</li> +<li>Nutmeg</li> +<li>Salt</li> +</ul> +<p>Remove bones from salmon; break into small pieces, add well +beaten egg, seasoning, and cracker crumbs; bake in a well buttered +dish for 15 minutes; serve hot for lunch.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Tamale Pie (12)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 2 cups</li> +<li>Salt, 2 ½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Boiling water, 6 cups</li> +<li>Onion, 1</li> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Hamburger steak, 1 pound</li> +<li>Tomatoes, 2 cups</li> +<li>Cayenne pepper, ½ teaspoon,<br /> +or</li> +<li>Chopped sweet pepper, 1 small</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Make a mush by stirring the corn meal and one and one-half +teaspoons salt into boiling water. Cook in a double boiler or over +water for 45 minutes. Brown the onion in the fat, add the Hamburger +steak, and stir until the red color disappears. Add the tomatoes, +pepper, and salt. Grease a baking-dish, put in a layer of corn meal +mush, add the seasoned meat, and cover with mush. Bake 30 minutes. +Serves six.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Turkish Pilaf (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Washed rice, 1 cup</li> +<li>Raw lean beef or lamb, 1 pound</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Boiling water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Small onion or garlic, 2 cloves</li> +<li>Tomatoes, 2 cups</li> +<li>Olive oil or any fat, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Fry onion cut in small pieces or the garlic in the fat until +slightly brown; add rice, seasonings, water, tomatoes, meat, and +cook in a covered dish until the rice is soft. The meat may be +omitted, the rice cooked in the tomatoes and water, and the whole +covered with grated cheese and baked until cheese is melted.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Vegetable Stew</h4> +<ul> +<li>Beef, ½ pound</li> +<li>Mutton, ½ pound</li> +<li>Carrots, diced, ½ cup</li> +<li>Potatoes, diced, 2 cups</li> +<li>Tomatoes, canned, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Carrot, 1 whole</li> +<li>Onion, sliced, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Cabbage, chopped, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Bay leaf, ½ leaf</li> +<li>Cloves, 6</li> +<li>Peppercorns, 6</li> +<li>Parsley, chopped, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Thyme, 1 sprig</li> +<li>Water, 7 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut meat in small pieces, brown with onion in fat, add water, +one carrot in which cloves have been imbedded, and other +vegetables. Tie bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns together in a +piece of cheesecloth and cook with stew about two hours (till +vegetables are done). Remove bag of seasonings, thicken stew with +flour. Add more salt if needed.</p> +<hr /> +<h3>PUDDINGS</h3> +<h4>Apricot Tapioca Pudding (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Apricots, 6</li> +<li>Sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Pearl tapioca, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Boiling water, 3 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Cover the tapioca with cold water and soak for one hour. Drain +off the cold water, add the boiling water and salt, and cook over +water (in a double boiler if you have one) until the tapioca is +transparent, and no hard center portion remains. This will require +about 30 minutes. Place the apricots in a buttered baking dish. Add +sugar to the tapioca, pour this over the apricots, add apricot +juice, and bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Cool and +serve. If dried apricots are to be used, they should be soaked over +night or several hours in cold water sufficient to cover them. Cook +in the water in which they have soaked until they are tender.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cereal Pudding (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Left over cereal, 3½ cups</li> +<li>Apple sauce, ½ cup<br /> +or</li> +<li>Apple, 1</li> +<li>Sugar, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Butter, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Put a layer of cereal in the bottom of a buttered baking dish, +then a layer of apples or sauce, then sugar if the sauce has not +been sweetened. Then put in another layer of cereal, cover with +buttered crumbs. Bake 30 minutes if it has apple sauce in it, one +hour if raw apples are used. Serve with cream.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cereal Date Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cereal (half corn meal and half farina), ¾ cup</li> +<li>Boiling water, 3 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Chopped dates, 1 cup</li> +<li>Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), ½ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +</ul> +<p>Stir the cereal mixture gradually into the boiling water, to +which the salt has been added. Cook directly over the flame for +about five minutes, stirring constantly, and then cook over water +for one and one-half hours. Add oleomargarine, syrup, egg, well +beaten, and chopped dates. Turn into a greased baking dish and bake +for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven (360-390° F.).</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Chocolate Bread Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Bread, broken in small pieces, 2 ½ cups</li> +<li>Corn syrup (dark), ½ cup</li> +<li>Brown sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Chocolate, 2 squares</li> +<li>Milk, 1 ½ cups</li> +<li>Hot water, 1 ½ cups</li> +<li>Vanilla, ¾ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak bread in milk; add syrup, brown sugar, egg, well beaten, +and salt. Melt chocolate in water; add gradually to bread mixture. +Add vanilla. Bake in custard cups, set in hot water, in a moderate +oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Eggless Steamed Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Flour, 1⅔ cups</li> +<li>Soda, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Allspice, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Raisins (seeded and cut in pieces), 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the flour, soda, salt, and spices; add the +raisins. To milk add molasses and melted fat; add liquid mixture +gradually to dry ingredients. Stir thoroughly. Turn into greased +molds, filling them a little over half full; cover and steam for +about two and one-half hours. Serve with pudding sauce or milk. +(Baking powder cans are satisfactory molds for steamed +puddings.)</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Honey Pudding (5)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Honey, ½ cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 6 ounces</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Rind of half a lemon</li> +<li>Ginger, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Eggs, 2</li> +<li>Butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the honey and the bread crumbs and add the milk, seasonings, +and yolks of the eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly and then add the +butter and the whites of the eggs well beaten. Steam for about two +hours in a pudding mold which is not more than three-quarters +full.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Indian Pudding (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, 1 quart</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Corn meal, ⅓ cup</li> +<li>Ginger, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cold milk, 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Pour milk, scalded, over meal, and cook 20 minutes; add salt, +ginger, and molasses. Cook slowly in a buttered baking dish two +hours. When half done, add the cold milk and finish cooking.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Baked Indian and Apple Pudding (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, 2 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Molasses, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Apple, 1</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift corn meal slowly into the scalded milk, stirring +constantly. Cook in double boiler 30 minutes, stirring +occasionally. Add salt, ginger, and molasses. Put into greased +baking dish and bake one hour in a slow oven, stirring +occasionally. Slice apple and stir into pudding. Bake until apple +is tender.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Prune Brown Betty (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cooked prunes, stoned and cut into halves, 2½ cups</li> +<li>Bread crumbs (dry), ½ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (dark), ¼ cup</li> +<li>Lemon juice, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Grated rind of ¼ lemon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Prune juice, ½ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix together heated prune juice, fat, salt, corn syrup, lemon +juice, lemon rind, and cinnamon. Moisten bread crumbs with part of +this mixture. Into a greased baking dish put alternate layers of +bread crumbs and prunes, pouring part of liquid mixture over each +layer of prunes. Bake in a moderate oven about 45 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rice Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Rice, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Raisins, ¾ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Cook the rice in boiling salted water, until soft. Pour off +water, add milk, syrup, nutmeg, and raisins. Bake in a moderate +oven (370-380° F.) for 40 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Spiced Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Browned crusts of bread, 1 cup</li> +<li>Scalded milk, 2 cups</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Raisins, ½ cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ¼ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak the crusts in the milk until soft. Add molasses, salt, +spices, and raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380° F.), +stirring occasionally at first. Serve with milk or cream.</p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>The following pages contain advertisements of books by the same +author or on kindred subjects.</p> +<hr /> +<h2>FEEDING THE FAMILY</h2> +<h3>BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE</h3> +<p class="rgt"><em>Illustrated, $2.10</em></p> +<p>This is a clear and concise account in simple every-day terms of +the ways in which modern knowledge of the science of nutrition may +be applied in ordinary life. The food needs of the different +members of the typical family group—men, women, infants, +children of various ages—are discussed in separate chapters, +and many concrete illustrations in the form of food plans and +dietaries are included. The problems of the housewife in trying to +reconcile the needs of different ages and tastes at the same table +are also taken up, as are the cost of food and the construction of +menus. A final chapter deals with feeding the sick.</p> +<p>“The volume is so simply and entertainingly written that +it cannot but be enjoyed by anyone interested in the planning or +preparation of household meals, and it would be difficult to +imagine a more helpful book to put into the hands of a reader +desiring information along such lines.”—<em>Trained +Nurse</em>.</p> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> +<hr /> +<h2>A LABORATORY HAND-BOOK FOR DIETETICS</h2> +<h3>BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE, PH.D.</h3> +<h6>Assistant Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, +Columbia University</h6> +<p class="rgt"><em>Cloth, 8vo, $1.10</em></p> +<p>Investigations into the quantitative requirements of the human +body have progressed so far as to make dietetics to a certain +extent an exact science, and to emphasize the importance of a +quantitative study of food materials. This little book explains the +problems involved in the calculation of food values and food +requirements, and the construction of dietaries, and furnishes +reference tables which will minimize the labor involved in such +work without limiting dietary study to a few food materials.</p> +<p>Only brief statements of the conditions affecting food +requirements have been made, the reader being referred to general +textbooks on the subject of nutrition for fuller information, but +such data have been included as seem most useful in determining the +amount of food for any normal individual under varying conditions +of age and activity.</p> +<h5>TABLE OF CONTENTS</h5> +<ul> +<li>PART I +<ul> +<li>FOOD VALUES AND FOOD REQUIREMENTS +<ul> +<li>THE COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS.</li> +<li>THE FUNCTIONS OF FOOD. +<ul> +<li>Food as a Source of Energy.</li> +<li>Food as Building Material.</li> +<li>Food in the Regulation of Body Processes.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>FOOD REQUIREMENT. +<ul> +<li>The Energy Requirement of Normal Adults.</li> +<li>The Energy Requirement of Children.</li> +<li>The Energy Requirement of the Aged.</li> +<li>The Protein Requirement.</li> +<li>The Fat and Carbohydrate Requirement.</li> +<li>The Ash Requirement.</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>PART II +<ul> +<li>PROBLEMS IN DIETARY CALCULATIONS +<ul> +<li>Studies in Weight, Measure, and Cost of Some Common Food +Materials.</li> +<li>Relation between Percentage Composition and Weight.</li> +<li>Calculation of the Fuel Value of a Single Food Material.</li> +<li>Calculation of the Weight of a Standard or 100-Calorie +Portion.</li> +<li>Food Value of a Combination of Food Materials.</li> +<li>Distribution of Foodstuffs in a Standard Portion of a Single +Food Material.</li> +<li>Calculation of a Standard Portion of a Combination of Food +Materials.</li> +<li>Analysis of a Recipe.</li> +<li>Modification of Cow's Milk to a Required Formula.</li> +<li>Calculation of the Percentage Composition of a Food +Mixture.</li> +<li>The Calculation of a Complete Dietary.</li> +<li>Scoring of the Dietary.</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>REFERENCE TABLES +<ul> +<li>Refuse in Food Materials.</li> +<li>Conversion Tables—Grams to Ounces.</li> +<li>Conversion Tables—Ounces to Grams.</li> +<li>Conversion Tables—Pounds to Grams.</li> +<li>Food Values in Terms of Standard Units of Weight.</li> +<li>Ash Constituents in Percentages of the Edible Portion.</li> +<li>Ash Constituents in Standard or 100-Calorie Portions.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>APPENDIX +<ul> +<li>The Equipment of a Dietetics Laboratory.</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> +<hr /> +<h2>THE FOOD PROBLEM</h2> +<h3>BY VERNON KELLOGG AND ALONZO E. TAYLOR. $1.25</h3> +<p class="quote">“Food is always more or less of a problem in +every phase of its production, handling and consumption. It is a +problem with every farmer, every transporter and seller, every +householder. It is a problem with every town, state and nation. And +now very conspicuously, it is a problem with three great groups, +namely the Allies, The Central Empires and The Neutrals; in a word +it is a great international problem.”</p> +<p>These sentences from the introduction indicate the scope of +<em>The Food Problem</em> by Vernon Kellogg and Alonzo E. +Taylor.</p> +<p>Both authors are members of the United States Food +Administration. Dr. Kellogg is also connected with the Commission +for relief in Belgium and professor in Stanford University. Mr. +Taylor is a member of the Exports Administrative Board and +professor in the University of Pennsylvania. The preface is by +Herbert Hoover, United States Food Administrator and Chairman for +the Commission of Relief in Belgium.</p> +<p>The food problem of today, of our nation, therefore, has as its +most conspicuous phase an international character. Some of the +questions which the book considers are:</p> +<p>What is the Problem in detail?</p> +<p>What are the general conditions of its solution?</p> +<p>What are the immediate and particulars which concern us, and are +within our power to affect?</p> +<p>And finally, what are we actually doing to meet our problem?</p> +<h5>TABLE OF CONTENTS</h5> +<ul> +<li>Introduction: The International Problem.</li> +<li><em>Part I. The Problem and the Solution</em>. +<ul> +<li>Chapter I. The Food Situation of the Western Allies and the +United States.</li> +<li>Chapter II. Food Administration.</li> +<li>Chapter III. How England, France and Italy are Controlling and +Saving Food.</li> +<li>Chapter IV. Food Control in Germany and Its Lessons.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li><em>Part II. The Technology of Food Use</em>. +<ul> +<li>Chapter V. The Physiology of Nutrition.</li> +<li>Chapter VI. The Sociology of Nutrition.</li> +<li>Chapter VII. The Sociology of Nutrition (Continued).</li> +<li>Chapter VIII. Grain and Alcohol.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>Conclusion: Patriotism and Food.</li> +</ul> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> +<hr /> +<h2>TWO TEXTBOOKS OF THE HOUSEHOLD ARTS</h2> +<h4>BY HELEN KINNE, <em>Professor</em>, AND ANNA M. COOLEY, +<em>Associate Professor of Household Arts Education, Teachers +College, Columbia University</em></h4> +<p class="rgt"><em>Cloth, 12mo, ill. $1.10</em></p> +<h3>FOODS AND HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT</h3> +<p>Treats specifically of foods, their production, sanitation, +cost, nutritive value, preparation, and serving, these topics being +closely interwoven with the practical aspects of household +management; and they are followed by a study of the household +budget and accounts, methods of buying, housewifery, and +laundering. It includes about 160 carefully selected and tested +recipes, together with a large number of cooking exercises of a +more experimental nature designed to develop initiative and +resourcefulness.</p> +<p>The book is new, practical, and economical. It is well +illustrated and attractively bound.</p> +<h3>SHELTER AND CLOTHING</h3> +<p>This book takes up fully, but with careful balance, every phase +of home-making: location, structure, plan, sanitation, heating, +lighting, decorating, and furnishing. The second part is devoted to +textiles, sewing, and dressmaking. Sewing, drafting, designing, +fitting, and cutting are treated in considerable detail as is also +the making of the personal budget for clothing.</p> +<p>The authors hold that harmony will be the keynote of the home in +proportion as the makers of the home regard the plan, the +sanitation, the decoration of the house itself, and as they +exercise economy and wisdom in the provision of clothing.</p> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> + +<br /> +<br /> +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 14066 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..49f885e --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #14066 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/14066) diff --git a/old/14066-8.txt b/old/14066-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d8b5d7d --- /dev/null +++ b/old/14066-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3392 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Everyday Foods in War Time, by Mary Swartz +Rose + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Everyday Foods in War Time + +Author: Mary Swartz Rose + +Release Date: November 17, 2004 [eBook #14066] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME*** + + +E-text prepared by Audrey Longhurst, Barbara Tozier, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME + +by + +MARY SWARTZ ROSE + +Assistant-Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia +University + +New York + +1918 + + + + + + + + The time has come, the Aggies said, + To talk of many things, + Of what to eat, of calories, + Of cabbages and kings, + Of vitamines and sausages, + And whether costs have wings. + + _Journal of Home Economics_, + November, 1917. + + + + +PREFACE + + + "FOOD IS FUEL FOR FIGHTERS. Do not waste it. Save WHEAT, MEAT, + SUGARS AND FATS. Send more to our Soldiers, Sailors and Allies." + + +The patriotic housewife finds her little domestic boat sailing in +uncharted waters. The above message of the Food Administration disturbs +her ordinary household routine, upsets her menus and puts her recipes out +of commission. It also renders inoperative some of her usual methods of +economy at a time when rising food prices make economy more imperative +than ever. To be patriotic and still live on one's income is a complex +problem. This little book was started in response to a request for "a war +message about food." It seemed to the author that a simple explanation of +the part which some of our common foods play in our diet might be both +helpful and reassuring. To change one's menu is often trying; to be +uncertain whether the substituted foods will preserve one's health and +strength makes adjustment doubly difficult. It is hoped that the brief +chapters which follow will make it easier to "save wheat, meat, sugars and +fats" and to make out an acceptable bill of fare without excessive cost. + +Thanks are due to the Webb Publishing Company, St. Paul, Minnesota, for +permission to reprint three of the chapters, which appeared originally in +_The Farmer's Wife_. + +TEACHERS COLLEGE, Columbia University, New York City. + +December 1, 1917. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + CHAPTER + + I. THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME + + II. CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT + + III. THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE + + IV. THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES + + V. ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES? + + VI. FAT AND VITAMINES + + VII. "SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE" + + VIII. ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME + + APPENDIX--SOME WAR TIME RECIPES + + + + +EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME + + (Reprinted from _The Farmer's Wife_, by permission of the Webb + Publishing Company.) + + +There is a quaint old fairy tale of a friendly pitcher that came and took +up its abode in the home of an aged couple, supplying them from its magic +depths with food and drink and many other comforts. Of this tale one is +reminded in considering the place of the milk pitcher in the home. How +many housewives recognize the bit of crockery sitting quietly on the shelf +as one of their very best friends? How many know that it will cover many +of their mistakes in the choice of food for their families? That it +contains mysterious substances upon which growth depends? That it stands +ready to save them both work and worry in regard to food? That it is +really the only indispensable article on the bill of fare? + +Diet is like a house, a definite thing, though built of different kinds of +material. For a house we need wall material, floor material, window, +ceiling, chimney stuffs and so forth. We may, if we like, make floors, +walls, and ceilings all of the same kind of stuff, wood for example, but +we should need glass for windows and bricks or tile for chimneys. Or, +again, we may choose brick for walls, floors, and chimneys but it would +not do any better than wood for windows, would be rather unsatisfactory +for ceilings, and impossible for doors. In other words, we could not build +a modern house from one kind of material only and we really need at least +four to carry out even a simple plan. + +In a similar fashion, diet is constructed from fuel material, +body-building material and body-regulating material. No diet is perfect in +which these are not all represented. Now, foods are like sections of +houses. Some correspond to single parts, as a floor or a window or perhaps +a chimney; others to a house complete except for windows and roof; still +others to a house lacking only a door or two. It takes some thought to put +them together so that we shall have all kinds of parts without a great +many extra ones of certain kinds and not enough of others. + +Milk is unique in that it comes nearest of all foods to being a complete +diet in itself. It is like the house with only a door missing. We could be +quite comfortable in such a house for a long time though we could make a +more complete diet by adding some graham bread or an apple or some +spinach. + +We all associate milk with cows and cows with farms, but how closely is +milk associated with the farm table? Is it prized as the most valuable +food which the farm produces? Every drop should be used as food; and this +applies to skim milk, sour milk, and buttermilk as well as sweet milk. Do +we all use milk to the best advantage in the diet? Here are a few points +which it is well to bear in mind: + +_Milk will take the place of meat._ The world is facing a meat famine. The +famine was on the way before the war began but it has approached with +tremendous speed this last year. Every cow killed and eaten means not only +so much less meat available but so much less of an adequate substitute. +Lean meat contributes to the diet chiefly protein and iron. We eat it +primarily for the protein. Hence in comparing meat and milk we think first +of their protein content. One and one-fourth cups of milk will supply as +much protein as two ounces of lean beef. The protein of milk is largely +the part which makes cottage cheese. So cottage cheese is a good meat +substitute and a practical way of using part of the skim milk when the +cream is taken off for butter. One and one-half ounces of cottage cheese +(one-fourth cup) are the protein equivalent of two ounces of lean beef. +Skim milk and buttermilk are just as good substitutes for meat as whole +milk. Since meat is one of the most expensive items in the food bill, its +replacement by milk is a very great financial economy. This is true even +if the meat is raised on the farm, as food for cattle is used much more +economically in the production of milk than of beef. + +_Milk is the greatest source of calcium (lime)._ Lime is one of the +components of food that serves two purposes; it is both building material +for bones and regulating material for the body as a whole, helping in +several important ways to maintain good health. It is essential that +everyone have a supply of lime and particularly important that all growing +infants, children, and young people have plenty for construction of bones +and teeth. There is almost none in meat and bread, none in common fats and +sugars, and comparatively few common foods can be taken alone and digested +in large enough quantities to insure an adequate supply; whereas a pint of +milk (whole, skim, or buttermilk) will guarantee to a grown person a +sufficient amount, and a quart a day will provide for the greater needs of +growing children. Whatever other foods we have, we cannot afford to +leave milk out of the diet because of its lime. Under the most favorable +dietary conditions, when the diet is liberal and varied, an adult should +have _at least_ half a pint of milk a day and no child should be +expected to thrive with less than a pint. + +_Milk contains a most varied assortment of materials needed in small +amounts_ for the body welfare, partly for constructive and partly for +regulating purposes. These are rather irregularly distributed in other +kinds of food materials. When eggs, vegetables, and cereals are freely +used, we are not likely to suffer any lack; but when war conditions limit +the number of foods which we can get, it is well to remember that the more +limited the variety of foods in the diet the more important milk becomes. + +_Milk will take the place of bread, butter, sugar, and other foods used +chiefly for fuel._ The body is an engine which must be stoked regularly in +order to work. The more work done the more fuel needed. That is what we +mean when we talk about the food giving "working strength." A farmer and +his wife and usually all the family need much fuel because they do much +physical work. Even people whose work is physically light require +considerable fuel. A quart of milk will give as much working force as half +a pound of bread, one-fourth of a pound of butter, or six ounces of sugar. +And this is in addition to the other advantages already mentioned. + +_Milk contains specifics for growth._ Experiments with animals have taught +us that there are two specific substances, known as vitamines, which must +be present in the diet if a young animal is to grow. If either one is +absent, growth is impossible. Both are to be found in milk, one in the +cream and the other in the skim milk or whey. For this reason children +should have whole milk rather than skim milk. Of course, butter and skim +milk should produce the same result as whole milk. Eggs also have these +requisites and can be used to supplement milk for either one, but as a +rule it is more practical to depend upon milk, and usually more +economical. + +For little children, milk is best served as a beverage. But as children +grow up, the fluidity of milk makes them feel as if it were not food +enough and it is generally better to use it freely in the kitchen first, +and then, if there is any surplus, put it on the table as a beverage or +serve it thus to those who need an extra supply--the half-grown boys, for +instance, who need more food in a day than even a hard-working farmer. + +A good plan is to set aside definitely, as a day's supply, a quart apiece +for each person under sixteen and a pint apiece for each one over this +age. Then see at night how well one has succeeded in disposing of it. If +there is much left, one should consider ways of using it to advantage. The +two simplest probably are, first, as cream sauce for vegetables of all +sorts; for macaroni or hominy with or without cheese; or for hard cooked +eggs or left-over meats; and next in puddings baked a long time in the +oven so that much of the water in the milk is evaporated. Such puddings +are easy to prepare on almost any scale and are invaluable for persons +with big appetites because they are concentrated without being +unwholesome. + +The milk pitcher and the vegetable garden are the best friends of the +woman wishing to set a wholesome and economical table. Vegetables +supplement milk almost ideally, since they contain the vegetable fiber +which helps to guard against constipation, and the iron which is the +lacking door in the "house that milk built." + +Vegetables which are not perfect enough to serve uncooked, like the broken +leaves of lettuce and the green and tough parts of celery, are excellent +cooked and served with a cream sauce. Cream sauce makes it possible also +to cook enough of a vegetable for two days at once, sending it to the +table simply dressed in its own juices or a little butter the first time +and making a scalloped dish with cream sauce and crumbs the next day. +Vegetables which do not lend themselves to this treatment can be made into +cream soups, which are excellent as the hot dish for supper, because they +can be prepared in the morning and merely reheated at serving time. + +Finally, the addition of milk in liberal quantities to tea and coffee +(used of course only by adults); its use without dilution with water in +cocoa; and instead of water in bread when that is made at home, ought to +enable a housewife to dispose satisfactorily of her day's quota of milk. +If it should accumulate, it can be dispatched with considerable rapidity +in the form of ice cream or milk sherbet. When there is much skim milk, +the latter is a most excellent way of making it popular, various fruits in +their seasons being used for flavor, as strawberries, raspberries, and +peaches, with lemons to fall back on when no native fruit is at hand. + +The world needs milk today as badly as wheat. All that we can possibly +spare is needed in Europe for starving little ones. In any shortage the +slogan must be "children first." But in any limited diet milk is such a +safeguard that we should bend our energies to saving it from waste and +producing more, rather than learning to do without it. Skim milk from +creameries is too valuable to be thrown away. Everyone should be on the +alert to condemn any use of milk except as food and to encourage +condensation and drying of skim milk to be used as a substitute for fresh +milk. + +When the milk pitcher is allowed to work its magic for the human race, we +shall have citizens of better physique than the records of our recruiting +stations show today. Even when the family table is deprived of its +familiar wheat bread and meat, we may be strong if we invoke the aid of +this friendly magician. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT + + (Reprinted from _The Farmer's Wife_, by permission of the Webb + Publishing Company.) + + +"Save wheat!" This great slogan of our national food campaign has been +echoed and reėchoed for six months, but do we yet realize that it means +US? We have had, hitherto, a great deal of wheat in our diet. Fully +one-third of our calories have come from wheat flour. To ask us to do +without wheat is to shake the very foundation of our daily living. How +shall we be able to do without it? What shall we substitute for it? These +are questions which every housewife must ask and answer before she can +take her place in the Amazon Army of Food Conservers. + +Is it not strange that out of half a dozen different grains cultivated for +human consumption, the demand should concentrate upon wheat? One might +almost say that the progress of civilization is marked by raised bread. +And wheat has, beyond all other grains, the unique properties that make +possible a light, porous yet somewhat tenacious loaf. We like the taste of +it, mild but sweet; the feel of it, soft yet firm; the comfort of it, +almost perfect digestion of every particle. We have been brought up on it +and it is a hardship to change our food habits. It takes courage and +resolution. It takes visions of our soldiers crossing the seas to defend +us from the greedy eye of militarism and thereby deprived of so many +things which we still enjoy. Shall we hold back from them the "staff of +life" which they need so much more than we? + +Can we live without wheat? Certainly, and live well. We must recognize the +scientific fact that no one food (with the exception of milk) is +indispensable. There are four letters in the food alphabet: _A_, fuel for +the body machine; _B_, protein for the upkeep of the machinery; _C_, +mineral salts, partly for upkeep and partly for lubrication--to make all +parts work smoothly together; _D_, vitamines, subtle and elusive +substances upon whose presence depends the successful use by the body of +all the others. These four letters, rightly combined, spell health. They +are variously distributed in food materials. Sometimes all are found in +one food (milk for example), sometimes only one (as in sugar), sometimes +two or three. The amounts also vary in the different foods. To build up a +complete diet we have to know how many of these items are present in a +given food and also how much of each is there. + +Now, cereals are much alike in what they contribute to the diet. In +comparing them we are apt to emphasize their differences, much as we do in +comparing two men. One man may be a little taller, a little heavier, have +a different tilt to his nose, but any two men are more alike than a man +and a dog. So corn has a little less protein than wheat and considerably +less lime, yet corn and wheat are, nutritionally, more alike than either +is like sugar. + +None of the cereals will make a complete diet by itself. If we take white +bread as the foundation, we must add to it something containing lime, such +as milk or cheese; something containing iron, such as spinach, egg yolk, +meat, or other iron-rich food; something containing vitamines, such as +greens or other vitamine-rich food; something to reėnforce the proteins, +as milk, eggs, meat, or nuts. It is not possible to make a perfect diet +with only one other kind of food besides white bread. It can be done with +three: bread, milk, and spinach, for example. + +If we substitute whole wheat for white bread, we can make a complete diet +with two foods--this and milk. We get from the bran and the germ what in +the other case we got from the spinach. _All the cereals can be +effectively supplemented by milk and green vegetables._ If green +vegetables (or substitutes for them like dried peas and beans or fruit) +are hard to get we should give preference to cereals from which the bran +coats have not been removed, such as oatmeal and whole wheat. Then the +diet will not be deficient in iron, which is not supplied in large enough +amounts from white bread and milk. Oatmeal is the richest in iron of all +the cereals. + +With such knowledge, we may alter our diet very greatly without danger of +undernutrition. But we must learn to cook other cereals at least as well +as we do wheat. Without proper cooking they are unpalatable and +unwholesome, and they are not so easy to cook as wheat. They take a longer +time and we cannot get the same culinary effects, since with the exception +of rye they will not make a light loaf. Fortunately we are not asked to +deny ourselves wheat entirely, only to substitute other cereals for part +of it. Let each housewife resolve when next she buys flour to buy at the +same time one-fourth as much of some other grain, finely ground, rye, +corn, barley, according to preference, and mix the two thoroughly at once. +Then she will be sure not to forget to carry out her good intentions. +Bread made of such a mixture will be light and tender, and anything that +cannot be made with it had better be dispensed with in these times. + +Besides the saving of wheat for our country's sake, we shall do well to +economize in it for our own. Compared with other cereals, wheat is +expensive. We can get more food, in every sense of the word, from half a +pound of oatmeal than we can from a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread, and +the oatmeal will not cost one-half as much as the bread. A loaf of Boston +brown bread made with one cupful each of cornmeal, oatmeal (finely +ground), rye flour, molasses, and skim milk will have two and one-half +times the food value of a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread and will cost +little more. One-half pound of cornmeal, supplemented by a half pint of +milk, will furnish more of everything needed by the body than such a +twelve-ounce loaf, usually at less cost. + +It pays at all times to use cereals in other forms than bread, for both +health and economy. Does your family eat cereal for breakfast? A dish of +oatmeal made from one-fourth cupful of the dry cereal will take the place +of two slices of white bread, each about half an inch thick and three +inches square, and give us iron besides. Served with milk, it will make a +well-balanced meal. When we add a little fruit to give zest and some crisp +corn bread to contrast with the soft mush, we have a meal in which we may +take a just pride, _provided the oatmeal is properly cooked_. + +A good dish of oatmeal is as creditable a product as a good loaf of bread. +It cannot be made without taking pains to get the right proportions of +meal, water, and salt, and to cook thoroughly, which means at least four +hours in a double boiler, over night in a fireless cooker, or half an hour +at twenty pounds in a pressure cooker. Half-cooked oatmeal is most +unwholesome, as well as unpalatable. It is part of our patriotic duty not +to give so useful a food a bad reputation. + +The man who does hard physical labor, especially in the open air, may +complain that the oatmeal breakfast does not "stay by" him. This is +because it digests rapidly. What he needs is a little fat stirred into the +mush before it is sent to the table, or butter as well as milk and sugar +served with it. If one must economize, the cereal breakfast should always +be the rule. It is impossible in any other way to provide for a family +adequately on a small sum, especially where there are growing children. + +Next to oatmeal, hominy is one of the cheapest breakfast foods. It has +less flavor and is improved by the addition of a few dates cut into +quarters or some small stewed seedless raisins, which also add the iron +which hominy lacks. For the adults of the family the staying qualities of +hominy and cornmeal can be increased by cutting the molded mush in slices +and frying till a crisp crust is formed. This can be obtained more easily +if the cereals are cooked in a mixture of milk and water instead of water +alone. The milk supplements the cereal as acceptably as in a dish of mush +and milk. Cornmeal needs even more cooking than oatmeal to develop an +agreeable flavor. It can be improved by the addition of an equal amount of +farina or cream of wheat. + +Cereals for dinner are acceptable substitutes for such vegetables as +potatoes, both for economy and for variety. The whole grains, rice, +barley, and hominy, lend themselves best to such use. Try a dish of +creamed salmon with a border of barley; one of hominy surrounded by fried +apples; or a bowl of rice heaped with bananas baked to a turn and removed +from their skins just before serving, and be glad that the war has stirred +you out of food ruts! + +Cereals combined with milk make most wholesome puddings, each almost a +well-balanced meal in itself. They are easier to make than pies, +shortcakes, and other desserts which require wheat flour, and they are +splendid growing food for boys and girls. + +For the hard-working man who misses the slowly-digesting pie, serve the +puddings with a hard sauce or add a little butter when making them. For +the growing children, raisins, dates, and other fruits are welcome +additions on account of their iron. From half a cupful to a cupful of +almost any cereal pudding made with milk is the equivalent of an ordinary +serving of pie. + +Aside from the avoidance of actual waste of food materials, there seems to +be no one service so imperative for housewives to render in these critical +times as the mastery of the art of using cereals. These must be made to +save not only wheat but meat, and for most of us also money. + +A wholesome and yet economical diet may be built upon a plan wherein we +find for an average working man fourteen ounces of cereal food and one +pint of milk, from two to four ounces of meat or a good meat substitute, +two ounces of fat, three ounces of sugar or other sweeteners, at least one +kind of fruit, and one kind of vegetable besides potatoes (more if one has +a garden). + +The cereal may furnish half the fuel value of the diet, partly +bread-stuffs and partly in some of the other ways as suggested, without +any danger of undernutrition. Remember the fable of the farmer who told +his sons he had left them a fortune and bade them dig on his farm for it +after his death, and how they found wealth not as buried treasure but +through thorough tillage of the soil. So one might leave a message to +woman to look in the cereal pot, for there is a key to health and wealth, +and a weapon to win the greatest war the world has ever seen. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE + + +"Do not buy a pound of meat until you have bought three quarts of milk" is +a "war sign" pointing two ways. On the one hand it tells us that we need +to save meat; on the other, that we should encourage the production of +that most indispensable food--milk. + +But what a revolution in some households if this advice is heeded! +Statisticians tell us that Americans have been consuming meat at the rate +of 171 pounds per capita per year, which means nearly half a pound apiece +every day for each man, woman, child, and infant in arms. Now, as mere +infants and some older folk have not had any, it follows that many of us +have had a great deal more. Did we need it? Shall we be worse off without +it? Meat is undeniably popular. In spite of the rising price and the +patriotic spirit of conservation, meat consumption goes on in many +quarters at much the usual rate. There is probably no other one food so +generally liked. It has a decided and agreeable flavor, a satisfactory +"chew," and leaves an after-sense of being well fed that many take as the +sign of whether they are well nourished or not. It digests well, even when +eaten rapidly, and perhaps partly for this reason is favored by the +hurried man of affairs. It is easy to prepare and hence is appreciated by +the cook, who knows that even with unskillful treatment it will be +acceptable and require few accessories to make an agreeable meal. Its rich +flavor helps to relieve the flatness of foods like rice, hominy, beans, or +bread. From this point of view there is no such thing as a "meat +substitute." + +But, nutritionally speaking, meat is only one of many; undeniably a good +source of protein, but no better than milk or eggs. A lamb chop is a very +nice item on a bill of fare, but the protein it contains can be secured +just as well from one large egg, or two level tablespoonfuls of peanut +butter, or one and one-fourth ounces of cheese; or a part of the time from +a quarter of a cup of dried navy beans or a little less of dried split +peas. + +Meat is highly regarded as a source of iron; but, again, it has no +monopoly of this important building-stone in the house of diet. The eggs, +or peas, or half the beans mentioned above would any one of them furnish +more iron than the lamb chop, while a quarter of a cup of cooked spinach +or a small dish of string beans would furnish quite as much. Besides green +vegetables, fruit, and the yolk of egg, cereals are a not inconsiderable +source of iron. A man would have adequate nourishment for a day, including +a sufficient supply of iron, if he were doing only moderate physical +labor, from one pint of milk, one and one-half pounds of whole wheat +bread, and three medium-sized apples. Beef juice is often used as a source +of iron for children and undoubtedly it is one which is palatable and +digestible, but it takes a quarter of a pound of beef to get a few +tablespoonfuls of juice, and a tablespoonful of juice would hardly contain +as much iron as one egg yolk; and it seems probable that the iron of the +egg yolk would be better utilized for the making of good red blood. + +Meat is good fuel for the human machine if used in moderate amounts along +with other food. But meat is no better fuel than other food. An ordinary +lamb chop will furnish no more calories than a dish of oatmeal, a piece of +bread an inch thick and three inches square, a large apple or banana, an +egg, five ounces (five-eighths of a cup) of milk, or a tablespoonful of +peanut butter. The fatter meat is the higher its fuel value (providing the +fat is used for food). A tablespoonful of bacon fat or beef drippings has +the same fuel value as a tablespoonful of butter or lard, or as the lamb +chop mentioned above. The man who insists that he has to have meat for +working strength judges by how he feels after a meal and not by the +scientific facts. While in the long run appetite serves as a measure of +food requirement, we can find plenty of instances where it does not make a +perfect measure. Some people have too large appetites for their body needs +and get too fat from sheer surplus of fuel stored in the body for future +needs as fat. If such people have three good meals a day all the time, +there never is any future need and the fat stays. Other people have too +small appetites for their needs and they never seem to get a surplus of +fuel on hand. They live, as it were, from hand to mouth. Anyone accustomed +to eating meat will have an unsatisfied feeling at first after a meal +without meat. The same is true of other highly flavored foods. It is well +for the cook to bear this in mind and serve a few rather highly seasoned +dishes when there is no meat on the bill of fare. A very sweet dessert +will often satisfy this peculiar sensation, and it can be allayed, at +least in part, by the drinking of water some little time after the meal. +Such a sensation will pass away when one becomes accustomed to the change +in diet. It is probably due to certain highly flavored substances +dissolved in the meat juices which are known to be excellent stimulants to +the flow of gastric juice and which are stimulating in other ways. These +have no food value in themselves, but, nevertheless, we prize meat for +them, as is shown by the distaste we have for meat which has its juices +removed. "Soup meat" has always been a problem for the housewife--hard to +make palatable--and yet the greater part of the nourishment of meat is +left in the meat itself after soup is made from it. + +Let us frankly recognize then that we eat meat because we like it--for its +flavor and texture rather than any peculiar nourishing properties--and +that it is only our patriotic self-denial or force of economic +circumstances that induces us to forgo our accustomed amounts of a food +which is pleasant and (in moderation) wholesome. We must save meat that +the babies of the world may have milk to drink. Nowhere in Europe is there +enough milk for babies today. A conservative request for one European city +alone was a shipment of one million pounds of condensed milk per month! If +cattle are killed for food there will be little milk to send and the +babies will perish. We must save meat for our soldiers and sailors, +because they need it more than we do. It is not only easily transported, +but one of the few things to give zest to their necessarily limited fare. +Fresh fruits and green vegetables, which may serve us as appetizers, are +not to be found on the war fields. Dainty concoctions from cheese and nuts +may provide for us flavor as well as nutriment, but meat is the +alternative to the dull monotony of bread and beans for the soldier--the +tonic of appetite, the stimulant to good digestion. We can scarcely send +him anything to take its place. + +We must save meat, too, as a general food economy. Meat is produced at the +expense of grain, which we might eat ourselves. And the production of meat +is a very wasteful process. Grains have a fuel value for man approximating +1,600 calories per pound. A pound of meat in the form of beef will require +the consumption by the animal of some fourteen pounds of grain. The pound +of beef will furnish perhaps 1,200 calories, while the grain consumed will +represent over 20,000 calories. The production of milk from grain is only +about one-third as expensive, so the purchase of three quarts of milk to +one pound of meat is an economy in more ways than one. + +Saving for the rest of the world will not be without some physical +advantage to ourselves, if we have been accustomed to indulge in meat +freely. Among the well-to-do meat eating is apt to be overdone to the +extent of affecting the kidneys and the arteries, and some enforced +restriction would be a real advantage to health, as has been demonstrated +in other than war times. Because a food is good is no reason for unlimited +quantities; an ounce of sugar a day is wholesome--a pound is likely to +result in both indigestion and a badly balanced diet. A quarter of a pound +of meat a day is not undesirable for an adult, but a pound a day may +result in general overeating or in the special ills which are related +directly to a large quantity of meat. One of these is an upsetting of a +proper balance of food elements in the diet. Diets high in meat are apt to +be low in milk and consequently low in calcium. If the income is limited +this is almost sure to be the case, since there will not be enough money +to provide meat freely and at the same time satisfy other nutritive +requirements. Such diets are also likely to be low in fuel value and not +provide enough working force even while men are declaring that they must +have meat to give them strength. They would have more strength and a +better diet from every point of view if part of the meat money were spent +for milk. So the injunction to buy three quarts of milk to one pound of +meat is a good rule for securing a well balanced and ample diet at the +lowest cost. + +Another good rule is to spend no more for meat, fish, and eggs than for +milk, and as much for fruits and vegetables as for meat, fish, and eggs. +Families very commonly spend as much as one-third of the food money for +meat; and, while they may secure a full third of their protein, iron, and +phosphorus in this way, they may not get more than a sixth of their fuel +and almost no calcium. Three quarts of milk at fourteen cents a quart will +yield about 2,000 calories. For an expenditure of forty-two cents for beef +as free from waste as milk, we would pay perhaps thirty-two cents per +pound. A pound and a quarter of lean beef would yield about 1,000 +calories. So as fuel alone the milk would be twice as cheap as the meat. +Three quarts of milk would yield almost if not quite as much protein as +the meat and a liberal supply of calcium to offset the iron furnished by +the meat. Everything considered, then, milk is a better investment than +meat. The same is true of some of the other foods which supply protein in +the diet such as dry peas and beans; cheese and peanut butter are at least +twice as valuable nutritionally as beef. The domestic problem is to make +palatable dishes from these foods. This requires time and patience. The +cook must not get discouraged if the first trial does not bring marked +success. The rest of the family should count it their "bit" to eat +valiantly until they can eat joyfully. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES + + +Never did it seem truer that "blessings brighten as they take their +flight" than when the potato went off the market or soaring prices put it +out of reach in the winter of 1917. "How shall I plan my meals without +it?" was the housewife's cry. "How shall I enjoy my meals without it?" +said all the millions of potato eaters who immediately forgot that there +was still a large number of foods from which they might extract some +modicum of enjoyment. + +And so the Nutrition Expert was asked to talk about "potato substitutes" +and expected to exercise some necromancy whereby that which was not a +potato might become a potato. Now, the Nutrition Expert was very +imperturbable--not at all disturbed by the calamity which had befallen our +tables. That unfeeling person saw potatoes, not in terms of their hot +mealiness and spicy mildness, but in terms of that elusive thing called +"DIET." The vanishing tuber was bidden to answer the dietary roll-call: + + "Proteins?" "Here!" Answer somewhat faint but + suggesting remarkable worth. + + "Fats?" No answer. + + "Carbohydrates?" Loud note from "Starch." + + "Mineral salts?" "Here!" From a regular chorus, among + which "Potassium" and "Iron" + easily distinguishable. + + "Vitamines and "Here! Here!" Especially vociferous, the + Other Accessories?" "Anti-Scorbutic Property." + +"This is a good showing for any single food material. The potato, as truly +as bread, may be called a 'staff of life.' Men have lived in health upon +it for many months without any other food save oleomargarine. Its protein, +though small in amount, is most efficient in body-building, its salts are +varied in kind and liberal in amount, and it furnishes a large amount of +very easily digested fuel besides. It is at its best when cooked in the +simplest possible way--baked or boiled in its skin. Nevertheless we are +not absolutely dependent upon the potato." + +"Alas," said the housewife, "this doesn't tell me what to cook for +dinner!" "Patience, Madam, we shall see about that." The fact that starch +is present is what makes the potato seem so substantial. But bread, rice, +hominy, in fact, all cereal foods can supply starch just as well. Pick out +the one you fancy and serve it for your dinner. One good-sized roll or a +two-inch cube of corn bread, or three-fourths of a cup of boiled rice will +sustain you just as well as a medium-sized potato. A banana, baked or +fried, makes an excellent substitute for a potato. An apple is also a very +palatable potato equivalent, if you want something more spicy than hominy +or corn bread. Why mourn over the lost potato? + +But how about those mineral salts? Well, the potato has no monopoly on +those, either, though it is ordinarily a very valuable contributor. Milk +has already been mentioned as one of the great safeguarding sources of +so-called ash constituents. Others are vegetables and fruits of different +kinds. These have been a neglected and sometimes a despised part of the +diet: "Why spend money for that which is not meat?" is often taken +literally. Even food specialists have been known to say, "Fruits and +vegetables are mostly water and indigestible fiber; they have little food +value." This is a good deal like saying, "If your coat be long enough you +do not need a pair of shoes." A potato has as much iron as an egg yolk or +a medium-sized chop. This is one more reason why we should be sorry to +take the useful tuber from our tables, but we may feel a certain +independence, even when meat and eggs are prohibitive in price, since by +canning or drying, if in no other way, we can have green vegetables as a +source of iron the whole year through. Some people are afraid that canned +vegetables will prove unwholesome; but if removed from the can as soon as +opened and heated to boiling before they are eaten, we are recently +assured that the danger of food poisoning will be materially lessened. +Even when such vegetables are wanted for salads, boiling and subsequent +cooling are advised. The mineral salts of vegetables dissolve into the +water in which they stand, and in any shortage of such food, or for the +greatest economy, it would seem wise to save the water in the can, which +is often thrown away to secure a more delicate flavor. Water from the +cooking of fresh vegetables which are not protected by skins (among them +spinach, peas, carrots, and asparagus), can often be reduced to a small +amount by steaming instead of boiling the vegetable, or any drained off +can be used in gravy, soup, sauce, or some similar fashion. The strong +flavor of some vegetables, however, makes such economy rather impractical. + +Some people discriminate against canned and dried vegetables because they +do not taste like fresh ones. This seems rather unreasonable, as we want a +variety of flavors in our diet and might welcome the change which comes +from this way of treating food as well as that which comes from different +methods of cooking. Nobody expects a stew to taste like a roast, and yet +both may be good and we would not want either one all the time. Instead of +regretting that canned peas do not taste like those fresh from the garden +(incomparable ones!) let us be glad that they taste as good as they do. +Would we like them any better if they tasted like cornmeal mush? + +While a potato has about as much phosphorus as an egg yolk, substitutes +for it in this respect are not hard to find. Five tablespoonfuls of milk +or half an ounce of cheese will easily supply as much, while half a cup of +cooked string beans will provide all the iron as well as half the +phosphorus in a potato, and a teaspoon of butter or other fat added to the +beans will make them equal in fuel value. On the other hand, two small +slices of whole wheat bread would furnish all the phosphorus, half the +iron, and an equal amount of fuel. + +The potato is conspicuously high in potassium, but it is not likely that +in any diet containing one kind of fruit and one kind of vegetable each +day there will be any permanent shortage of this substance. Spinach, +celery, parsnips, lettuce, cabbage, rutabagas, beets, carrots, tomatoes, +cucumbers, and turnips are all good sources of potassium and some of them +are available all the year round without canning and drying. + +But what significance has the "Anti-Scorbutic Property"? Does that not +make potatoes indispensable? Scurvy, Madam, occurs whenever people live +for a long time on a monotonous diet without fresh food. The potato offers +good protection against this disease at a low cost, but other foods have +long been known to possess the same power, among them oranges, lemons, +limes, and other fruits, and cabbage and other green vegetables; in fact, +a mixed diet in which fruits and vegetables occur is assurance of freedom +from scurvy. Just how far the potato will go in providing the specific +vitamines essential for growth is still unsettled. It undoubtedly contains +one of them in goodly amount, but for the present it is wise to include +some green (leaf) vegetable in the diet even when potatoes are plentiful, +especially if butter, milk, and eggs cannot be freely used. + +Nutritionally then, we can find substitutes for the potato; practically, +too, we can find quite satisfactory alternatives for it in our +conventional bills of fare. On the face of things the potato is a bland +mealy food which blends well with the high flavor and the firm texture of +meat and the softness of many other cooked vegetables. Gastronomically, +rice or hominy comes about as near to having the same qualities, with hot +bread, macaroni, sweet potatoes, and baked bananas (underripe so as not to +be too juicy and sweet) close rivals. These are not so easy to cook and +serve as the potato and are not likely to supplant it when it is +plentiful. It might be worth while, however, to substitute these for +potatoes rather often. The latter will be appreciated all the more if not +served every day in the week, or at least not more than once a day. We +might extend the fashion of baked beans and brown bread to roast pork with +rice, ham with baked bananas, roast beef with hominy, and broiled steak +with macaroni. Why not? You, Madam Housewife, are always sighing for +variety, but does it never occur to you that the greatest secret of +variety lies in new combinations? + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES? + + +In the house of diet fruits and vegetables may be likened to windows and +doors, fire-places and chimneys; we could dispense with them, we could +board up our windows and make a fire on a big stone in the middle of the +room, letting the smoke escape through a hole in the roof, but such a +course would not mean comfort year in and year out. So we may exist +without fruits and vegetables, but it is worth while to stop and consider +what we gain by their use. + +We shall have to admit at the outset that if we have to spend money or +labor for them, fruits and vegetables are not the cheapest source of fuel +for the human machine. Some of them are cheaper fuel than butter, eggs, or +meat, but not as cheap as cereals, sugar, molasses, syrups, and some of +our cheapest fats. This is true of potatoes, parsnips, carrots, dried peas +and beans, and such fruits as bananas, prunes, raisins, dates, figs, and +possibly a few other dried fruits, but we cannot justify our investment in +most fruits and vegetables solely on the plea that they are "filling" in +the sense of being of high fuel value; on this ground lettuce, celery, +cabbage, tomatoes, lemons, rhubarb, cranberries, and many others would +find no place in our domestic economy. + +Remembering that man does not live by fuel alone, we may find ample +reasons for spending some of our food money upon things which at first +thought seem to give an inadequate return. There is an old adage, "An +apple a day keeps the doctor away," which if true means that the apple is +a real economy, a kind of health insurance, for an apple costs seldom over +five cents--often only one--and a doctor's visit may easily cost a hundred +times as much. There is a certain amount of truth in the saying, though +the apple does not have a monopoly of the supposed virtue. It is more +accurate, if less poetic, to say that an _assortment_ of fruits and +vegetables helps to keep us in good health. Before the days of modern +"cold pack" canning, mothers used to assemble their little home groups in +the spring and, in spite of sundry hidings under tables on the part of +reluctant Johnnies and Susies, dutifully portion out herb tea or sulphur +in molasses. Spring cleaning could never stop short of "cleansing the +blood!" And after a monotonous winter of salt pork and fried potatoes no +doubt heroic measures were necessary to make up for an ill-chosen diet. +Nowadays we recognize no such seasonal need. We carry our surplus of +fruits and vegetables over from summer to winter and profit not only in +the greater daily pleasure of our tables but in clearer skins, brighter +eyes, and less "spring fever." + +How do fruits and vegetables help to keep us well? In the first place, by +their wholesome effect upon the bowels. As a rule we associate regular +daily movements with health, but do not always recognize the part which +diet plays in securing them. If we eat little besides meat and potatoes, +bread, butter, and cake or pie, we are very likely to have constipation. +This is particularly true for those who work indoors or sit much of the +time. Now, fruits and vegetables have several properties which help to +make them laxative. Many have considerable woody fiber. In celery and +asparagus we find it in actual "strings"; in cabbage, spinach, lettuce, +and other stem or leaf vegetables it may not be so noticeable, but it is +certainly present and we should realize that it is useful. The skins of +fruit are of this nature and may often be eaten, as in case of prunes, +figs, apples, dried peaches and apricots. The outer coats of grains, which +serve the same purpose, are frequently removed by milling, but similar +coats of peas and beans are not so removed except in the case of dried +split peas. In the juices of fruits and vegetables we find a variety of +laxative substances. This explains why apple juice (sweet cider), orange +juice or diluted lemon juice may be a very desirable morning drink. The +effect is partly due to the acid but not wholly. Juices which are not acid +to the taste, as those of prunes, figs, onions, have laxative properties. +So from a great variety of fruits and vegetables, especially those which +are fibrous or acid or both, we may obtain the substitute for "pills" in +wholesome foods which are generally cheaper than drugs. + +No diet can be properly built without a suitable supply of mineral salts. +The free use of milk is our greatest safeguard against lack of any save +iron, but when milk is scarce and has to be saved as now for the babies of +the world, it is fortunate that we can make fruits and vegetables take its +place in part. Some of our very common vegetables are good sources of the +calcium (lime) and phosphorus so freely supplied in milk. Among these may +be taken as an example the carrot, which has not had due recognition in +many quarters and in some is even spoken of contemptuously as "cattle +food." Its cheapness comes from the fact that it is easy to grow and easy +to keep through the winter and should not blind us to its merits. A +good-sized carrot (weight one-fourth pound) will have only about half the +fuel value of a medium-sized potato, but nearly ten times as much calcium +as the potato and about one-third more phosphorus. While actual figures +show that other vegetables, especially parsnips, turnips, celery, +cauliflower, and lettuce, are richer in calcium than the carrot, its +cheapness and fuel value make it worthy of emphasis. Everyone who has a +garden should devote some space to this pretty and palatable vegetable. It +is perhaps at its best when steamed till soft without salting and then cut +up into a nicely seasoned white sauce; its sweetness will not then be +destroyed nor its salts lost in the cooking water. It is not only useful +as a hot vegetable, but in salads, in the form of a toothsome marmalade, +and as the foundation of a steamed pudding. For little children it is most +wholesome and they should make its acquaintance by the time they are a +year and a half old, in the form of a cream soup. A dish of carrots and +peas (one-half cup peas, one-fourth cup carrot cubes, one-half cup white +sauce) will have almost the same food values (for fuel, calcium, +phosphorus, and iron) as an equivalent serving of oatmeal, milk, and sugar +(three-fourths cup cooked oatmeal, one-half cup milk, one rounding +teaspoon sugar) and will add variety to the diet without costing a great +deal more unless one pays a fancy price for peas. + +Even when meat and eggs are not prohibitive in price, fruit and green +vegetables are an important source of iron in the diet. And when war +conditions make the free consumption of meat unpatriotic, it is reassuring +to think that we really can get along without meat very well if we know +how. Two ounces of lean beef will furnish no more iron than a quarter of a +cup of cooked spinach or half a cup of cooked string beans or dried beans, +or one-sixth of a cup of raisins, or half a dozen good-sized prunes. +Cabbage, peas, lettuce, dandelion greens, beet tops, turnip tops and other +"greens" are well worth including in our bill of fare for their iron +alone. By the time children are a year old we begin to introduce special +iron-bearing foods into their diet to supplement milk. Aside from egg +yolk, we give preference for this purpose to green vegetable juice or +pulp, especially from peas and spinach or a mixture of both. The +substantial character of dry beans is too well known to require comment, +but how many realize that they are a most valuable source of iron and +other mineral salts? The fact that they are not a "complete diet" in +themselves should not disturb anyone who realizes that all diets are built +from a variety of foods. We are hardly likely to use beans to the +exclusion of everything else except in dire necessity, and then what +better could we do than use freely a food which will go so far toward +sustaining life at so small a cost? + +There is a further significance for fruits and vegetables in their +contribution to the diet of the growth-promoting, health-protecting +vitamines. That the presence of fruits and vegetables in the diet is a +safeguard against scurvy is well known, though the full scientific +explanation is not yet ours. That the leaf vegetables (spinach, lettuce, +cabbage, and the like) contain both the vitamines which are essential to +growth in the young and to the maintenance of health in the adult seems +assured, and gives us further justification for emphasis on green +vegetables in the diet of little children, when properly +administered--i.e., always cooked, put through a fine sieve, and fed in +small quantities. + +Aside from being valuable for regulation of the bowels, for mineral salts, +and vitamines, to say nothing of more or less fuel value, fruits and +vegetables give zest to the diet. The pleasant acidity of many fruits, +their delicate aroma, their beautiful form and coloring, the ease of +preparing them for the table, are qualities for which we may legitimately +prize them, though we may not spend money for them until actual nutritive +requirements are met. Dr. Simon Patten, in his _New Basis for +Civilisation_, ably expresses the value of appetizers: "Tomatoes, the +hothouse delicacy of the Civil War time, are doing now what many a bloody +revolution failed to accomplish; they have relieved the monotony of the +salt pork and boiled potatoes upon the poor man's table. The clear acid +flavor of the canned vegetable lightens ugly heaviness and adds tonic +gratifications for the lack of which men have let each other's blood." + +As already remarked, those who have plenty of highly flavored meat are apt +to be satisfied by it or to demand stronger flavors (coffee, catsup, +pickles, and tobacco) than those found in fruits and vegetables. They are +also apt to spend so much money on meat that they have none left to buy +what seem to them unimportant items in the diet, and to have a much less +wholesome diet than they might have for the same money. Studies of +expenditures in many families show that a good rule to insure a well +balanced diet is to spend no more money for meat than one does for fruit +and vegetables. Also, it is well to remember that vegetables are usually +cheaper than fruits and that dried ones may largely take the place of +canned or fresh ones. For wholesome and economical living, have fruit of +some kind at least once a day and make the main dish of one meal a +vegetable dish whenever possible. Thick cream soups, souffles, creamed or +scalloped vegetables, are all substantial and appetizing. The way to learn +to like such foods is to keep trying. One may learn contentment with the +proverbial dinner of herbs more easily by realizing that one is building +valuable bricks into the house of diet; and in the present emergency one +may, by selection of fruits and vegetables of high energy value, save less +perishable foods for our soldiers and allies. The knowledge that a banana +is equivalent in calories to a large slice of bread or a small pat of +butter becomes tremendously significant; that an apple, an orange, four +prunes, four dates, or a cup of peas, may not only take the place of bread +but actually add something which the bread does not contain, means that we +may be the gainers from our own sacrifices, without embarrassment thereat. +We shall have reaped a speedy reward for doing our duty. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +FATS AND VITAMINES + + +In the days of the ancient Romans vegetable oils were prized for food and +butter was used for cosmetics. In America today we are asking what is to +become of us if we cannot have butter to eat! Such are the fashions in +food. "June butter" is one of our gastronomic traditions. The sample in +the restaurant may have none of the firm creamy texture and delicate +aromatic flavor of the product of the old spring house; but as long as it +is labeled butter we try to bring our sensations into line with our +imaginations. For the real butter flavor there is no more a substitute +than there is for the aroma of coffee. But these are matters of esthetic +pleasure rather than of nutrition. They depend largely upon habit. Whale +blubber and seal oil are as much appreciated in some quarters as butter is +by us. An American going inland from the Atlantic coast is often surprised +to find that olive oil, instead, of being served on every table, is +exceedingly disliked. + +For the sustenance of the body we must recognize that fat is fat, whatever +its flavor. A calorie from butter yields neither more nor less energy than +a calorie from lard or bacon, olive oil or cottonseed oil. The common food +fats are all very well digested if judiciously used--not in too large +quantities, nor over-heated in cooking, and not "cooked into" things too +much as in pastries, rich sauces, and fried foods. Whether we spread our +bread with butter or beef drippings amounts to the same thing in the long +run; the main point is which we are willing to eat. + +A change is rapidly coming over our food habits. The price of butter has +been soaring beyond our reach, and the market for "butterine," "nut +margarine," "oleomargarine," or whatever the substitute table fat may be +called, has expanded tremendously. It is excellent household economy to +buy milk and a butter substitute rather than cream or butter. In these +substitutes refined vegetable oils such as cottonseed, cocoanut, and +peanut, and oils derived from beef or lard are so combined or treated as +to produce the desired hardness, and churned with milk or milk and butter +to improve texture and flavor. Lard substitutes are similarly made from +one or more of these fats, but are harder in texture and no attempt is +made to give them a butter flavor by churning with milk. All the fats used +are wholesome and efficient sources of energy for the human machine. + +In the absence of butter some other form of fat is desirable in the diet, +because fat is so concentrated a food. There is a limit to the capacity of +the human stomach to hold food. People who live on a diet largely of rice, +which has almost no fat in its make-up, develop characteristically +distended abdomens, because they have to eat such a great quantity of food +to get fuel enough for their day's work. When people are for any reason +put on a milk diet for a considerable time it is customary to put +something into the milk to make it more concentrated, for otherwise they +would drink and drink and then hardly get fuel enough. To give a concrete +illustration--a man's energy requirement for a day may be met by from four +to five quarts of milk (unless he is doing very heavy manual labor), but +it would be much more practical to substitute a loaf of bread, which is +comparatively dry, for one quart of milk, and three ounces of fat (six +tablespoonfuls) for another quart of milk, making the total volume but +little over half what it would be if four quarts of milk were taken. For +people who are engaged in hard physical toil, fat is exceedingly important +for this purpose of gaining in concentration. "Fat is fuel for fighters," +and it is perfectly reasonable to ask those who are not doing much heavy +labor to eat other kinds of food and save fat for those who simply have to +have it to do their work well. In the ordinary mixed diet one can easily +dispense with an ounce of fat (two tablespoonfuls). Each tablespoonful is +equalled in energy by an apple, or a banana, a large egg, two half-inch +slices of bread about three inches square, four dates, four prunes--and it +is no great strain on one's capacity for food to substitute such items for +the fat. + +On account of its concentration, fat is good for transportation; and aside +from its energy value it gives the diet "staying" qualities. Other things +being equal, one feels hungry sooner after a meal without fat than after +one in which it is liberally supplied. People doing manual labor, and +especially out of doors, feel the pangs of hunger more than sedentary +folks and hence need more fat to keep them comfortable. No man can do his +best work when all the time thinking how hungry he is. It behooves us all +then, as good citizens, to recognize the greater need of our soldiers and +sailors and our hard-working laborers for as liberal allowances of fat as +we can make. At the same time, we cannot for our own best health dispense +with fat altogether. We may consider anything up to two ounces apiece a +day legitimate for our own maintenance of efficiency. + +In departing from food customs there is a natural timidity lest the new +food shall in some way be less healthful than the old. Recent scientific +researches have revealed a hitherto unsuspected property in butter, a +discovery which has aroused some concern as to whether we can safely +substitute other fats for it. Young animals fed on a diet of highly +purified food materials in which lard is the only kind of fat may seem +fairly well but do not grow normally, while those fed the same diet in +every respect except that the lard is replaced by butter grow as young +animals should and are more resistant to disease. Study of other food fats +shows that they may be divided into two groups, one with this growth +promoting property and one without it. In general, the vegetable oils do +not have it, while butter and beef oil do; on the other hand, lard does +not have it, while the oil from corn does. Careful analysis of the +situation has shown that a fat-soluble vitamine is present which can in +the laboratory be separated from the fat. This same vitamine is present in +a variety of food materials--in whole milk, in egg yolks, in leaves of +plants--but we have not studied it long enough to know just how much +spinach we can substitute for a tablespoonful of butter so far as the +vitamine is concerned. We must await further investigations. But we may +rest assured that with a fairly liberal amount of milk and some green +vegetables, possibly some beef fat, we need not fear any disastrous +consequences from the substitution of some other fat for butter. Where the +diet is limited and the entire quantity of fat is not very large, it seems +prudent to select oleomargarine made largely from beef oil and, where +circumstances permit its use without the sacrifice of any other dietary +essential, to use butter in the diet of growing children unless they get a +full quart of milk apiece a day. + +Changing our food customs is difficult because it means also changing our +cooking customs. But many dishes can be made with less fat than we are +accustomed to put in or with different kinds from those we have hitherto +preferred. Often the fat from frying is left in the pan to be washed out +and thrown away. If every cook could say to herself, "Every two drops of +fat make a calorie and every calorie counts in the world today," it might +seem more worth while to hold the pan a minute and drain out the fat for +further use. A thousand calories mean a day's life to a baby. It is always +more wholesome to cook foods so that they are not coated with fat, and one +may get brown products in a frying pan without more than a thin film of +fat to keep the food from sticking. It is well to remember in this +connection that the unsalted lard substitutes are more satisfactory than +the saltier fat foods, in which there may be a trace of milk. + +The thought that fat is fuel wherever we find it in food will stiffen our +resolution to take a little pains with the fats which we have been wont to +discard. Anyone can get from the Department of Agriculture suggestions for +the practical use of chicken, mutton, beef, and other kinds of meat fats. +The main points are to free them from flavor, by melting them with milk or +water, possibly using some special absorbent like potato or charcoal too, +and then mixing hard and soft together, just as the oleomargarine-makers +do, to get such a degree of hardness as suits one's purpose. All this +requires time and thought. Let no one dream that the patriotic duties of +the kitchen are trivial. Anything that is worth while costs something; +money, thought, labor--perhaps all three. To salvage kitchen fat may not +be economical in time and labor (though it generally is more so than one +might think), but there is more time and labor than food available today. +So it seems the "bit" of the housekeeper to set a standard for her family +as to the amount of fat she will purchase per week, which is at least +one-fourth lower than their ordinary consumption, and to depend upon +special conservation of what may have gone to waste hitherto for any +increase in this allowance. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +"SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE" + + +"Do come and taste how nice the burnt pig eats!" So cried the miscreant +son of Hati when his attempt to rescue his father's live-stock from utter +destruction resulted (at least according to Lamb) in adding one more +delicacy to the table of civilized man. That the "burnt pig" commended +itself instantly to the taste of other men is attested by the recklessness +with which they ignited their own houses to secure the new sensation +again. + +Not all flavors make an immediate appeal. Many persons can mark the time +when they learned to like olives, or tomatoes, or tea. The taste for some +foods was acquired so early that there is no consciousness of any time +when they were not enjoyed, and the impression prevails that the liking +for such foods is instinctive. Sometimes that is the case, but quite as +often not. Children have to be taught by patient repetition to like most +of the common foods which make the staples of the diet, and likings thus +acquired are as strong as those which seem more natural. + +However taste be accounted for, we have to recognize the fact that food is +chosen for flavor more than for ultimate benefit. It is one thing to say +that oatmeal is more nutritious than bread and coffee; it is quite another +to induce a man to give up the latter for the former! And yet the +distinguishing characteristic of man is that he can subjugate his +immediate impulses for his future benefit, or find a course that will +harmonize the two--take coffee with his oatmeal for instance, or find some +way to flavor it, perhaps with sugar. + +Probably no one flavor is so universally enjoyed as sweetness. "Sweeter +than the honey in the honey comb" is an ancient symbol of appreciation. +When the sugar bowl is empty how many things lose zest! Tea, coffee, +cocoa, breakfast cereals, fruit, might still be acceptable, but cake, pie, +and ice cream are unthinkable without sweetness; the soda fountain, the +bakery, and the candy shop bear further testimony to our love of sweets. +Four million tons of sugar a year for the American people--eighty-five +pounds apiece, nearly a quarter of a pound apiece daily--this is no +inconsiderable amount of flavoring! + +But is not sugar good food? Most assuredly. Three lumps of sugar would +furnish the extra energy needed to walk a mile; a quarter of a pound +represents about one-sixth of a man's daily fuel requirement. But one +baked potato would furnish the same energy as the three lumps of sugar; a +quarter of a pound of cornstarch would supply the same fuel as the quarter +pound of sugar. Nutritionally starch and sugar are interchangeable, the +advantage as far as digestion is concerned being with the starch rather +than the sugar. And yet we put sugar on starch! So much for instinct being +a guide to scientific food combinations! + +The problem of doing without sugar is primarily a problem of flavor--a +problem of finding something else which is sweet. Hence we turn our +cornstarch into glucose (make corn syrup, for example) outside the body +instead of inside it, so that we can taste the sweetness as it goes down. +The main trouble with this kind of sugar is that it is not sweet enough to +satisfy us and we are apt to use too much, thus endangering our digestions +by sheer concentration of what would be, in smaller quantities, most +wholesome. Once more we see that nutrition is largely a question of _how +much_; how much glucose or other sugar our stomachs can stand we find out +by experience; few stomachs can stand when empty the quantity represented +by a lollipop, and yet we frequently see children allowed to suck these +between meals. The same amount of sugar diluted with water, as in a glass +of lemonade, would do less harm; it might be combined with flour in a +cooky with more impunity; better yet, it might be made a part of a whole +meal, taking it in several dishes (sauce, dessert, etc.), or, if we must +have it as candy, at the end of the meal. Used in this way, the advantages +of sugar as a food may be had with relatively little disadvantage. + +Honey, "the distilled sweetness of the flower," commands a price +commensurate with the exquisiteness of its production, but is not quite as +easy of digestion as some other forms of sugar. Because of its intense +sweetness it may be combined with advantage with less sweet syrups, such +as corn syrup. The cook estimates that by measure it will take one and a +half times as much corn syrup as cane sugar to get the customary effects +in sweet dishes. By using one part of honey to three of corn syrup a +sweeter product is obtained, which is free from several of the +disadvantages of honey in cookery. + +Maple syrup and sugar are not only prized for their sweetness, due to the +presence of ordinary cane sugar, but for the delicate "maple" flavor so +difficult to duplicate. Nutritionally a tablespoon of maple sugar is +equivalent in fuel value to about four-fifths of a tablespoon of cane +sugar, while equal volumes of cane molasses, corn syrup, and maple syrup +are interchangeable as fuel, though not of equal sweetening power. + +Molasses is a less one-sided food than cane sugar or corn syrup. The +latter furnish nothing but fuel, and if used too freely not only disturb +digestion but tend to crowd out foods which yield mineral salts. Molasses +is quite rich in calcium, one tablespoonful yielding as much as five +ounces of milk, and is for this reason a better sweet for growing children +than ordinary sugar or corn syrup when the amount of milk which they can +have is limited, or when fruits and vegetables are hard to get. Molasses +ginger snaps make, therefore, an excellent sweet for children, much better +than candy, but of course to be eaten only at meal time. + +The aim of good home cooking should be to please the family with what they +ought to eat. The chef in a big hotel may have to prove the superiority of +his art over that of a rival chef, and vie with him in novelty and +elaboration, but the home cooking may be ever so simple provided the +result is a happy, well-nourished family. A chocolate layer cake that +takes two hours out of a day is no more nourishing than the same materials +served as poached eggs, bread and butter, and a cup of chocolate. It is +worth while to train a family to enjoy the flavor of simply prepared +foods, and to realize that the food is the thing which counts and not the +way it is dressed up. On the other hand, if one has to use a few food +materials over and over, as one must in many places when the money that +can be spent for food is very little, it is by slight changes in their +form and flavor that one keeps them from palling on the appetite. If one +has to use beans every day, it is a good thing to know a dozen different +ways of preparing beans. One may have the plain bean flavor, properly +toned up by a suitable amount of salt; the added flavor of onions, of +tomatoes, of fat pork, of molasses, or a combination of two or three. One +may have plain oatmeal for breakfast (the flavor developed by thorough +cooking, at least three or four hours in a double boiler or over night in +a fireless cooker); oatmeal flavored with apples in a pudding for dinner; +or oatmeal flavored with onions and tomatoes in a soup for supper; the +same food but quite different impressions on the palate. + +Herbs and spices have from time immemorial given flavor to man's diet. +"Leeks and garlic," "anise and cumin," "salt and pepper," "curry and bean +cheese," are built into the very life of a people. The more variety of +natural foods we have the less dependent we are upon such things. Our +modern cooks, confronted in the present crisis with restrictions in the +number of foods which they may use, may find in bay leaves, nutmeg, +allspice, and all their kind, ways of making acceptable the cereals which +make a diet economical, the peas and beans which replace at least a part +of the meat, and dried fruits and vegetables which save transportation of +fresh or canned goods. + +Tea and coffee are both flavors and stimulants. They are used literally by +thousands to give flavor to bread or rice. Dependence on a single flavor +is apt to result in a desire to have it stronger and stronger, and hence +less and less wholesome. This is a good reason for some variety of flavor; +better tea one meal and coffee another than the same one all the time. Too +freely used, and made too strong, tea and coffee may have a bad effect +upon the nervous as well as the digestive system. They should never be +given to children. It is better for adults to get their flavor from +something without such effects. Because the combination of bread and +coffee tastes good, one may be deceived into thinking himself well +nourished on a diet consisting of little else. And yet this is a very +inadequate diet for anybody, and disastrous to the normal development of +children. One must be on guard, then, lest one's desire for flavor be +satisfied without the body's real needs being met. + +The wise cook saves her best flavors for the foods which would be least +acceptable without them and does not add them to foods which are good +enough by themselves. The latter course marks the insidious beginning of +luxury. "Once give your family luxuries and you are lost as far as +satisfying them economically is concerned," remarked a clever housewife. +"Even a rat will not taste bread when bacon is nigh," observed a sage +physiologist. The demand for flavor grows and grows with pampering, till +nothing but humming-birds' tongues and miniature geese floating in a sea +of aspic jelly will satisfy the palate of him who eats solely for +flavor--who never knows the sauce of hunger, or the deliciousness of a +plain crust of bread. We must be on guard, saying, like the little +daughter of a classical professor, "If Scylla doesn't get me Charybdis +will." Flavor we must have, but not too much, not too many kinds at once, +and not applied indiscriminately to foods which need them and foods which +do not. The wise cook uses her arts to secure the proper nourishment of +the family and not for her fame as "a good cook." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME + + +Who does not sigh for the fairy table that comes at the pressing of a +button? It is invariably laden with the most tempting viands, satisfies +beyond words, and disappears when the meal is over, leaving behind no +problem of leftovers or planning for the next meal! No money, no work, no +thought, only sheer enjoyment. Alas, how different is the world of fact! +Even if we have plenty of money we cannot escape from the thought of food +today. There is imperative need for saving of food materials; at best +there will not be enough to go around, and all the world, ourselves +included, will suffer in proportion as we neglect the duty of food +conservation. To be economical in the use of food materials according to +the program of the Food Administration may, probably will, demand the +spending of more money, time, and thought upon food. If we have the money +and time to spend, well and good; but if we have not, how shall we do our +share in sending more "wheat, meat, sugar and fats to our soldiers, +sailors and allies"? + +Thousands of people had to practice strict economy before the war began. +They have no more money than they had then and the cost of food has +increased. Certainly the first duty of everyone is to secure sufficient +nourishment to avoid the undermining of health and strength which is sure +to follow inadequate food. But we must all remember that it is possible to +make a great many changes in diet without altering food value, and that +there are few diets which cannot be so rearranged as to give a better +nutritive return on the money spent than is usually secured by our +haphazard methods of planning meals. Saving of waste is commendable and +will go a long way, but this is a kind of passive service; loyal citizens +ought to be active participants in the food conservation movement, which +is a movement to distribute food in the way which shall promote the +efficiency of our allies and ourselves in this world upheaval. To do this +without increasing the cost of one's diet requires a careful study of the +situation. No one can give precise rules as to how it shall be done, but +perhaps a few suggestions as to the underlying principles will help in +determining a dietary plan which shall be economical and still in line +with the general policy. + +The same nutritive essentials must be supplied whether the cost of the +diet be much or little. A moderately active man needs some 3,000 calories +per day whether his activity be playing golf or working on a farm; whether +his board bill be $3.00 a day or $3.00 a week. In both cases there must be +suitable kinds and amounts of protein-bearing food, of other "building +materials," and those substances which directly or indirectly affect the +smooth running of the body machinery; nevertheless, these two diets, +closely alike in nutritive value, may be very dissimilar in their +superficial appearance. For instance, all the nutritive requirements may +be met in a ration composed of three food materials, as milk, whole wheat +bread, and apples; on the other hand, by one composed of canvas-back duck, +truffles, lettuce, celery, cranberries, white bread and butter, cream, +coffee, and perhaps a dozen other items. We love all the various +sensations that come from the mingling in a meal of food hot and cold, +moist and dry, crisp and soft, sweet and sour, exhibiting the artistic +touch as well as the homelier virtues; it is the sacrifice of pleasure of +the esthetic sort that food economy and to some extent food conservation +entail. + +The first step in food economy (aside from saving of waste) is to +emphasize the use of cereal foods. As much as one-fourth the food money +may be invested in grain products without nutritive disadvantage. But this +is not the last word on the subject, since cereal foods, while cheap, +differ among themselves in cost and somewhat in nutritive value. It is +possible to confine one's choice to some which contribute little besides +fuel to the diet, such as rice and white flour, or to include those which +are rich in other essentials, such as oatmeal. It is difficult to express +briefly this difference in foods in any concrete fashion, but recently a +method of grading or "scoring" foods has been introduced which may help to +make clearer the relationship between nutritive value and general economy. + +We cannot live exclusively upon foods which furnish nothing but fuel, +though fuel is the largest item in the diet and one which in an effort to +economize is apt to fall short; hence a food which furnishes nothing but +fuel will not have as high a "score" as a food which will at the same time +supply certain amounts of other essentials, such as protein, calcium +(lime), iron, and the like. By giving definite values to each of the +dietary essentials taken into consideration and comparing the yield of +these from different foods, we may have such a score as follows:[1] + + Grain Score value + products per pound + + White flour 1,257 + Graham flour 2,150 + Rye flour 1,459 + White bread 1,060 + Graham bread 1,525 + Cornmeal 1,360 + Oatmeal 2,465 + Cream of wheat 1,370 + Hominy 1,147 + Corn flakes 1,090 + + [1] For the method of calculation and further data see "The + Adequacy and Economy of Some City Dietaries" by H.C. Sherman + and L.H. Gillett, published by The New York Association for + Improving the Condition of the Poor, 105 East Twenty-second + Street, New York City, from which these figures are taken. + +By comparing the score with the price per pound we can easily see which +contributes most to the diet as a whole for the money expended. Thus, if +hominy and oatmeal cost the same, the oatmeal is more than twice as cheap +because we not only get a little more fuel from it but we also get +protein, calcium, iron, and phosphorus in considerably larger amounts; +that is, we shall need less of other foods with oatmeal than we shall with +hominy. This does not mean that hominy is not an excellent and a cheap +food, but it does mean that when the strictest economy must be practiced +it pays to buy oatmeal. The task of the housewife is to find out how much +she can make acceptable to her family; how much she can serve as breakfast +food, how much in muffins and bread, how much in soups and puddings. This +economy is strictly in harmony with the principles of food +conservation--saving of wheat, so hard to do without entirely, so easy to +dispense with in part. + +Cornmeal gives as good a nutritive return per pound as cream of wheat, so +that as long as the price of cornmeal is not higher than that of the wheat +product it is both good economy and good patriotism to use it as far as +one can. And, even if cornmeal should be dearer than wheat, one can save +money by increasing the proportion of cereals in the diet so as to be able +to be patriotic without increasing the food bill. + +A second measure which generally makes for food economy is to emphasize +the use of dried fruits and vegetables. The score of some of these foods +almost speaks for itself: + + Dried fruits Score value + and vegetables per pound + + Beans 3,350 + Peas 2,960 + Apples 955 + Dates 1,240 + Figs 1,782 + Prunes 1,135 + Raisins 1,550 + + Fresh fruits + and vegetables + + Beans 472 + Peas 475 + Apples 156 + Bananas 236 + Oranges 228 + Peaches 138 + Pears 228 + + +From the foregoing it is evident that, unless the cost of a pound of fresh +apples is less than one-fifth that of dried ones, the dried will be +cheaper; that if dates and raisins cost the same per pound they are +equally economical to buy. It may be noted, too, that the return on a +pound of dried fruit may be quite as good in its way as the return on a +pound of a grain product, but they will be equally cheap only when they +cost the same per pound in the market. Here, again, there is no +incompatibility between economy and conservation of special foods. Even in +the case of beans is this true, for, while certain kinds are wanted for +the army and navy, there are dozens of kinds of beans; one may count it as +part of one's service to find out where these can be obtained, how they +are best cooked and served. Soy beans commend themselves for their +nutritive value, but how many American housewives have made them a part of +their food program? How many have tried to buy them or asked their dealers +to secure them? + +A third step in the program of economy is the reduction of the amount of +meat consumed. In many American families at least one-third the food money +is spent for meat. That there are adequate substitutes which may be used +to reduce the amount of meat bought has been already shown. Saving of meat +is one of the most important planks in the food conservation program; so +here again there is no inevitable conflict between conservation and +economy. Some meat is desirable for flavor if it can possibly be afforded, +but no economically inclined person should set aside more than one-fourth +to one-fifth of the food money for it. How much one will get depends upon +the kind and cut selected. There is not so much difference in the +nutritive value as there is in the cost, as the following examples of +"meat scores" will show: + + Meat Score value + and fish per pound + + Beef, lean round 1,664 + Beef, medium fat rump 1,221 + Beef, porterhouse steak 1,609 + Veal, lean leg 1,539 + Lamb, medium fat leg 1,320 + Fowl 1,453 + Codfish, salt 1,710 + Codfish, fresh[2] 519 + Salmon, canned 1,074 + + [2] The low score of fresh cod is due chiefly to the absence + of fat and the presence of water. + +The great value of milk in the diet has already been discussed. The +"score" of milk is about the same as that for sugar (milk, 761; sugar, +725); hence, if sugar is ten cents a pound and milk eighteen-cents a quart +(about nine cents per pound), milk is cheaper than sugar. Yet there are +people cutting down their milk supply when the cost is only thirteen or +fourteen cents per quart on the ground that milk is too expensive! The +economical housewife should have no compunctions in spending from +one-fifth to one-fourth of her food money for this almost indispensable +food. Whether the free use of milk will be good food conservation as well +as good economy depends upon the supply. If there is not enough to go +around, babies and the poor should have the first claim upon it and the +rest of the world should try to get along with something less economical. + +A pound of eggs (eight or nine eggs) gives about the same nutritive return +as a pound of medium fat beef, but to be as cheap as beef at thirty cents +a pound, eggs must not cost over forty-five cents a dozen. Eggs must be +counted among the expensive foods, to be used very sparingly indeed in the +economical diet. Nevertheless the use of eggs as a means of saving meat is +a rational food conservation movement, to be encouraged where means +permit. + +The saving of sugar, while a necessary conservation measure, is contrary +to general food economy, since sugar is a comparatively cheap fuel food +and has the great additional value of popularity. Sugar substitutes are +not all as cheap as sugar by any means, but molasses, on account of its +large amount of mineral salts, especially of calcium, has a score value of +2,315 as against 725 for granulated sugar, and may be regarded with favor +by those both economically and patriotically inclined. + +In the case of fats, practical economy consists in paying for fuel value +and not for flavor. The score values for butter, lard, olive oil, and +cottonseed oil are about the same. The cheapest fat is the one whose face +value per pound (or market cost) is the lowest. Fats are not as cheap as +milk and cereals if they cost over ten cents per pound. The best way to +economize is by saving the fat bought with meat, using other fats without +much flavor, and cutting the total fat in the diet to a very small amount, +not over two ounces per person per day. This is also good food +conservation, since fats are almost invaluable in rationing an army, and +those with decidedly agreeable flavor are needed to make a limited diet +palatable. + +No program either of economy or food conservation can cater to individual +likes and dislikes in the same way that an unrestricted choice of food +can. If one does not like cereals it is hard to consume them just to save +money, especially to the extent of ten to fifteen ounces of grain products +in a day. Yet one might as well recognize that in this direction the +lowering of the cost of the diet inevitably lies. If one does not like +corn, it is hard to substitute corn bread for wheat bread. But one might +as well open one's mind to the fact that the only way to put off the day +when there will be no white bread to eat is to begin eating cornmeal now. +Most of us want to eat our cake and keep it too--to enjoy our food and not +pay for our pleasure; to do our duty towards our country and not feel any +personal inconvenience. But the magic table of the fairy tale is not for a +nation at war; food is not going to come at the pressing of a button +during this conflict. If we are to escape bankruptcy and win the war we +must eat to be nourished and not to be entertained. + + + + +APPENDIX + +SOME WAR TIME RECIPES + + +The following recipes illustrate some of the practical applications of the +principles discussed in the foregoing pages. They have been selected from +various publications, a list of which is given below. The numbers +following the titles of the recipes correspond with the numbers of the +publications in this list. + +1. Canned Salmon: Cheaper than Meats and Why, U.S. Department of Commerce, +Bureau of Fisheries, Economic Circular No. 11 + +2. Cheese and its Economical Use in the Home, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 487 + +3. Economical Diet and Cookery in Time of Emergency, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Technical Education Bulletin No. 30 4. Food, Bulletin +of the Life Extension Institute, 25 West 45th Street, New York City + +5. Honey and its Uses in the Home, U. S. Department of Agriculture, +Farmers' Bulletin No. 653 + +6. How to Select Food: Foods Rich in Protein, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 824 + +7. Meat Substitutes, Connecticut Agricultural College, Emergency Food +Series, No. 10 + +8. Ninety Tested, Palatable and Economic Recipes, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Technical Educational Bulletin No. 34 + +9. Recipes of New York City Food Aid Committee, 280 Madison Avenue, New +York City + +10. Recipes in The Farmer's Wife, St. Paul, Minnesota, September, 1917 + +11. Some Sugar Saving Sweets for Every Day, Teachers College, Columbia +University, Teachers College Record, November, 1917 + +12. War Economy in Food, Bulletin of the United States Food Administration + +13. Waste of Meat in the Home, Cornell Reading Course for the Farm Home, +Lesson 109 + + + + +BREAD AND MUFFINS + + + +Corn Meal and Wheat Bread (9) + + Corn meal, 1 cup + Wheat flour, 2 cups + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup, 1 tablespoon + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Cold water, 1-1/4 cups + Lukewarm water, 1/4 cup + Yeast, 1 cake + +Pour cold water gradually over corn meal and salt. Cook over water for 20 +minutes. Add fat and syrup. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add yeast +which has been softened in the lukewarm water. Add flour gradually, +stirring or kneading thoroughly after each addition of flour. Knead +lightly for 10 or 15 minutes. Shape into a loaf. Let rise until double in +bulk. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380°) for about an hour. (The amount of +corn meal may be reduced if one desires a loaf with the characteristics of +wheat bread.) + + + +Corn Meal and Rye Bread (9) + + Lukewarm water, 2 cups + Yeast, 1 cake + Salt, 1/2 tablespoon + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Rye flour, 1 cup + Corn meal, 1 cup + Flour, 3 cups + +Soften yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix thoroughly. +Let rise, shape, let rise again and bake. + + + +Sour Milk Corn Bread (8) + + Corn meal, 1 pint + Soda, 3/4 teaspoon + Baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon + Sour milk, 1 pint + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Lard (melted), 1 1/2 tablespoons + +Slightly beat the egg, add milk, salt, and soda. Stir in the meal. Beat +well. Add melted lard and baking powder. Bake in hot greased pan. Cut in +squares and serve. Do not have batter too stiff. + + + +Eggless Corn Muffins (8) + + Corn meal, 1 cup + Pastry flour (sifted), 1/2 cup + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Melted butter, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Milk, 1 cup + +Mix dry ingredients and add milk and melted butter. Put in greased muffin +pan and bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +Oat Bread (4) + + Boiling water, 2 cups + Salt, 1/2 tablespoon + 1/2 yeast cake, dissolved in 1/2 cup lukewarm water + Rolled oats (dry), 1 cup + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Flour, 4-1/2 cups + +Add boiling water to the rolled oats, stir well and let stand for one +hour. Add molasses, salt, fat, dissolved yeast cake, and flour; let the +dough rise to double its bulk, beat well, and turn into greased bread +pans, let rise the second time, and bake about one hour in a moderate +oven. + + + +Oatmeal Muffins (8) + + Cooked oatmeal, 1 cup + Flour, 1-1/2 cups + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Baking powder, 4 teaspoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Milk, 1/2 cup + Egg, 1 + Melted butterine, 2 tablespoons + +Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the egg well +beaten and one-half the milk. Mix the remainder of the milk with the +cereal, and beat in thoroughly. Then add the butter. Bake in buttered +muffin or gem tins about 30 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +War Time Boston Brown Bread + + Rye meal, 1 cup + Corn meal, 1 cup + Finely ground oatmeal, 1 cup + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Soda, 3/4 teaspoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Molasses, 1 cup + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + +Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until well +mixed, turn into a well-greased mold, and steam three and one-half hours. +The cover should be greased before being placed on mold. The mold should +never be filled more than two-thirds full. A one-pound baking powder box +makes the most attractive shaped loaf for steaming; place mold on a trivet +in kettle containing boiling water, allowing water to come half-way up +around mold; cover closely and steam, adding as needed more boiling water. +One cup chopped peanuts and 1 cup of cut dates may be added. + + + +Rice Bread (10) + + Milk, 1/2 cup + Sugar, 6 tablespoons + Fat, 4 tablespoons + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Compressed yeast, 1/2 cake, softened in 1/4 cup liquid + Boiled rice, 7 cups + Flour, 8 cups + +This proportion makes two loaves of bread. + +Scald the milk with sugar, salt, and fat. Let cool until lukewarm and pour +over the boiled rice. Add yeast which has been softened in one-quarter +cupful warm water. Stir in flour and knead. Let rise until double its +bulk. Knead again and put into pans. Let rise until light and bake 50 +minutes to one hour in a moderate oven. + +_The rice should be boiled in a large quantity of boiling water_, in +order to insure a dry rice. At least eight or ten times as much water as +rice should be used. + + + +Eggless Rye Muffins (8) + + Rye flour, 2 cups + Baking powder, 4 teaspoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Sugar, 4 teaspoons + Milk, 1 cup + Melted butter or other fat, 1 tablespoon + +Mix and sift the dry ingredients; add the milk and melted fat. Mix +quickly, do not beat. Bake in greased muffin pans 20 minutes in a hot +oven. + + + +Rye Corn Meal Muffins (9) + + Corn meal, 1/2 cup + Rye flour, 1 cup + Baking powder, 3 teaspoons + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Melted butter, 1 tablespoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Milk, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + +Mix and sift dry ingredients, beat egg, add to it milk and molasses, then +stir liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Do not beat. Place in +well-greased muffin tins and bake in moderate oven 25 to 30 minutes. + + + +Rye Rolls (9) + + Milk, 1 cup + Water, 1 cup + Fat, 3 tablespoons + Sugar, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 2 teaspoons + Yeast cakes, 2 + Water, 6 tablespoons + Rye flour, 4 cups + White flour, 4 cups + +Scald the milk with the salt, sugar, and fat. Soften the yeast in the six +tablespoonfuls of water. + +Cool the milk by adding the rest of the water cold, stir in the yeast and +flour, and knead. Let rise until double in bulk. Knead again and shape +into rolls. Let rise until very light and bake. + + + + +CAKE AND COOKIES + + + +Apple Sauce Cake (4) + + Sugar, 1 cup + Butter, 2 tablespoons + Apple sauce, 1 cup + Flour, 2 cups + Raisins, 2/3 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/2 teaspoon + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + +Sift together the soda, spices, salt, and flour. Cream the butter, add +sugar, apple sauce, dry ingredients, and seeded raisins. Bake in a +moderate oven. + + + +Buckwheat Cookies (8) + + Butterine, 1/2 cup + Sugar, 1 cup + Eggs, 2 + Clove, 1/2 teaspoon + Buckwheat, 1 3/4 cups + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + +Beat the eggs, add the sugar and melted butter, and beat until thoroughly +mixed. Sift the buckwheat, spices, and salt together and add very slowly. +Mix well; roll on a floured board one-eighth to one-sixteenth inch thick. +Cut the cookies and bake on a greased baking sheet in a moderate oven +about 10 minutes. + + + +Honey Bran Cookies (5) + + Bran, 3 cups + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/4 teaspoon + Honey, 1/2 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Melted butter, 1/2 cup + + +Soft Honey Cake (5) + + Butter, 1/2 cup + Honey, 1 cup + Egg, 1 + Sour milk, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Flour, 4 cups + +Rub the butter and honey together; add the egg well beaten, then the sour +milk and the flour sifted with the soda and spices. Bake in a shallow pan. + + + +Molasses Cakes (4) + + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Fat, 1/2 cup + Molasses, 1 cup + Ginger, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Flour, 2 1/2 cups + Soda, 2 teaspoons + Hot water, 1 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + +Sift together the salt, sugar, flour, soda, and spices. Melt butter in hot +water, add molasses, egg well beaten, and dry ingredients. Mix well. Bake +in small cup cake tins in a moderate oven for about 25 minutes. + + + +Molasses Cookies (11) + + Flour, 2-3/4 cups + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Ginger, 1 tablespoon + Molasses, 1 cup + Hot water, 1 tablespoon + Hardened vegetable fat, 1/4 cup + +Sift together the flour, salt, soda, and ginger. Melt fat; add hot water +and molasses; stir this liquid gradually into the dry ingredients. Chill. +Roll on floured board to one-eighth inch thickness. Cut. Bake about 10 +minutes in a moderate oven (360-380° F.). + + + +Nut Molasses Bars (9) + + Oleomargarine, 1/4 cup + Hardened vegetable fat, 1/4 cup + Boiling water, 1/4 cup + Brown sugar, 1/2 cup + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Flour, 3-2/3 cups + Ginger, 1/3 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/8 teaspoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Cocoanut, 1/2 cup + English walnuts, 1/2 cup + +Pour boiling water over fat; add sugar and molasses; add flour, soda, +spices, and salt sifted together. Chill. Roll one-eighth inch thick. Cut +in strips about three and a half by one inch. Sprinkle with cocoanut and +English walnuts cut in small pieces. + +Bake about 10 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +Oatmeal Cookies (4) + + Egg, 1 + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Water, 1/4 cup + Flour, 2 cups + Fine oatmeal, 1/2 cup + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Raisins, 1 cup + Melted fat, 5 tablespoons + +Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the oatmeal. Beat +the egg add sugar, water, and milk, dry ingredients mixed together, +raisins, and melted fat. Drop from spoon on greased baking sheet and bake +in moderate oven. + + + +Oatmeal Macaroons (12) + + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup, 3/8 cup + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Egg, 1 + Almond extract if desired, 2 teaspoons + Oatmeal, 1 1/2 cups + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon + Flour, 1-1/2 tablespoons + +Combine the melted fat and sugar and syrup, add the beaten egg and stir in +the other ingredients. Drop from a teaspoon on greased baking sheets or +pans and bake in a moderate oven about 15 minutes. + + + +Potato Drop Cookies (13) + + Hot mashed potatoes, 1-1/2 cups + Sugar, 1-1/4 cups + Beef or mutton fat, 1 cup + Flour, 1-3/4 cups + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Cinnamon, 1 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/2 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon + Raisins, chopped, 1/2 cup + Nuts, chopped, 1/4 cup + +Combine the ingredients in the order given and drop the mixture by +spoonfuls on a slightly greased tin. Bake the cookies in a moderate oven. + + + +Spice Cake (9) + + Hardened vegetable fat, 3-1/2 tablespoons + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + Corn syrup, 1/4 cup + Milk, 1/4 cup + Flour, 1 cup (plus 1-1/2 tablespoons) + Baking powder, 1-1/4 teaspoons + Chopped citron, 2 tablespoons + Raisins, cut in half, 1/2 cup + Cinnamon, 3/4 teaspoon + Clove, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon + +Cream fat; add sugar gradually, syrup, egg well beaten; mix and sift dry +ingredients; add alternately with milk to first mixture. Add raisins +(which have been rolled in a little of the flour), mixing them through the +cake thoroughly. + +Bake about 30 minutes in a moderate oven (about 380° F.). + + + + +JAMS AND SANDWICH FILLINGS + + + +Banana and Nut Paste for Sandwiches (11) + + Banana, 1 + Shelled peanuts, 1/4 cup + +Mix the banana with the shelled peanuts, which have been crushed. Salt to +taste. Use as a filling for sandwiches. + + + +Carrot Marmalade (3) + + Carrots, 3 pounds + Sugar, 3 pounds + Lemon, 1 (juice and grated rind) + Oranges, 2 (juice and grated rind) + +Wash, scrape, and steam carrots until soft; chop fine and mix with fruit +and sugar. Cook gently one hour. + + + +Date and Cranberry Marmalade (3) + + Cranberries, 1 quart + Dates, stoned, 1 pound + Water, 1 pint + Brown sugar, 2 cups + +Simmer together for 20 minutes cranberries, dates, and water; put through +a sieve; add sugar and cook 15 minutes longer. + + + +Dried Apricot Conserve (11) + + Dried apricots, 1/2 pound (1-2/3 cups) + Cold water, 2 cups + Raisins, 1 cup + Juice of 1 lemon + Whole orange, 1 + Nuts, 1/2 cup + Corn syrup (light), 1 cup + +Soak apricots over night in cold water. When soaked add raisins, lemon +juice, orange sliced very thin, with slices cut in small pieces, and corn +syrup. Bring to boiling point and simmer for about one and one-quarter +hours. Add nuts 15 minutes before taking from fire. + + + +Fruit and Peanut Butter (for Sandwiches) (11) + + Dates, 1/4 cup + Figs, 1/4 cup + Peanut butter, 1/2 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Lemon juice, 1-1/2 tablespoons + Raisins, 1/4 cup + Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons + +Wash figs, raisins, and dates, and put through food chopper. Add salt, +peanut butter, lemon juice, and corn syrup, and mix well. + + + +Plum Conserve (without sugar) (11) + + + Pitted plums, 1 pound (2 dozen plums) + Raisins, 1/3 pound + Cold water, 1/2 cup + Walnuts, 1/8 pound (1/4 cup) + Oranges, 2 + Corn syrup, 1/3 cup + +Wash and cut plums in pieces: add chopped raisins, orange pulp and peel, +cut very fine; corn syrup and water; boil until it is of the consistency +of marmalade (about one and one-half hours of slow cooking). Add walnuts +five minutes before removing from fire. + + + + +SUBSTANTIAL HOT DISHES + + + +Baked Barley (4) + + Barley, 1/2 cup + Boiling water, 3 cups + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Left over gravy, 3/4 cup + +Soak barley over night. Drain. Cook in boiling salted water until tender. +Drain. Add left over gravy and bake for 20 minutes in a moderate oven. If +one has a meat bone, or left over bits of meat, these may be boiled with +the barley to give it flavor. + + + +Beef and Bean Stew (6) + + Beef, lower round, 1 pound + Red kidney beans, 1 cup + Onion, 1 + Canned tomatoes, 1 cup, or 2 or 3 fresh tomatoes + Salt pork, 2 ounces + +Wash the beans and soak them over night. Cut the pork into small pieces +and try out the fat. Cut the beef into small pieces and brown it in the +pork fat, then add the vegetables with water enough to cover. Cook just +below the boiling point for about three hours. + + + +Cheese Fondue (2) + + Milk (hot), 1-1/3 cups + Bread crumbs, 1-1/3 cups + Butter, 1 tablespoon + Eggs, 4 + Cheese, 1/3 pound (1-1/3 cups grated or 1 cup cut in pieces) + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + +Mix the water, bread crumbs, salt, and cheese; add the yolks thoroughly +beaten; into this mixture cut and fold the whites of eggs beaten until +stiff. Pour into a buttered dish and cook 30 minutes in a moderate oven. +Serve at once. + + + +Corned Beef Hash with Vegetables (4) + + Corned beef (cold, left over), 1-1/2 cups + Dice potatoes (cooked), 2-1/4 cups + Turnips (cooked), 1 cup + Onion, chopped fine, 1 small + Carrots (cooked), 1/2 cup + Water, 3/4 cup + Fat, 3 tablespoons + +Cut the meat into small pieces. Add cooked vegetables cut into small +cubes, onion and water. Put fat into hot frying pan, add hash and cook for +about 20 minutes, allowing the hash to brown. Other left over meat may be +added to corned beef, or used instead of corned beef. + + + +Corn Meal Scrapple (3) + + Shin of beef, 2 pounds + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Onion, 1 medium + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + Cold water, 2 quarts + Corn meal, 1 cup + +Cook onion thinly sliced in beef marrow or suet. Add to water with meat +and bone and cook until meat is tender. Let cool, skim off fat, and remove +bone. To liquid remaining, add enough water to make one quart. Add corn +meal and salt and cook one hour. Turn into a mold, cool, cut in slices, +and fry in pork fat until brown. Serve with or without gravy. + + + +Corn Chowder (4) + + Corn, 1/4 can + Salt pork, 1-1/2 inch cube + Potato cut in slices, 1 medium + Milk, 2 cups + Boiling water, 1-1/2 cups + Butter, 2 tablespoons + Sliced onion, 1/8 + Sugar, 1/4 teaspoon + Salt and pepper + +Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. Add the onion and cook for +about five minutes. Strain the fat into a stew pan. Cook the potatoes for +about five minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, and add the potatoes to +the fat. Add the boiling water and cook until the potatoes are soft. Then +add corn and milk and heat to the boiling point. Add the salt, pepper, +sugar, and butter. Serve immediately after adding butter. + + + +Cottage Cheese and Nut Loaf (12) + + Cottage cheese, 1 cup + Nut meats (use those locally grown), 1 cup + Stale bread crumbs, 1 cup + Juice of 1/2 lemon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/4 teaspoon + Chopped onion, 2 tablespoons + Oleomargarine, meat drippings or vegetable oils, 1 tablespoon + +Mix the cheese, ground nuts, crumbs, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Cook +the onion in the fat and a little water until tender. Add to the first +mixture the onion and sufficient water or meat stock to moisten. Mix well, +pour into a baking dish, and brown in the oven. + + + +Dried Fish Chowder (7) + + Salt fish, 1/2 pound + Potatoes, cut in small pieces, 4 cups + Salt pork, 2 ounces + Small onion, chopped, 1 + Skim milk, 4 cups + Crackers, 4 ounces + +Salt codfish, smoked halibut, or other dried fish may be used in this +chowder. Pick over and shred the fish, holding it under lukewarm water. +Let it soak while the other ingredients of the dish are being prepared. +Cut the pork into small pieces and fry it with the onion until both are a +delicate brown; add the potatoes, cover with water, and cook until the +potatoes are soft. Add the milk and fish and reheat. Salt, if necessary. +It is well to allow the crackers to soak in the milk while the potatoes +are being cooked, then remove them, and finally add to the chowder just +before serving. + + + +Gevech (Roumanian Recipe) (9) + + Shredded cabbage, 1-1/4 cups + Chopped onion, 1/4 cup + Rice, 1/4 cup + Diced potatoes, 3/4 cup + 1/2 green pepper cut into strips + Fish, 3/4 pound + Canned tomato, 3/4 cup + Water, 3 tablespoons + Salt, 3/4 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/4 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + +Parboil cabbage, onion, rice, potatoes, and green pepper together in +salted water for 20 minutes. Drain. Clean fish, cut into small pieces, and +mix with parboiled vegetables, canned tomatoes, water, and seasonings. +Bake in a moderate oven for about 40 minutes. Baste occasionally while +cooking. Serve with a garnish of sliced lemon. + + + +Kidney Bean Stew (3) + + Kidney beans, 1 cup + Onion, 1 small + Rice, 2 tablespoons + Canned tomatoes, 2 cups + Fat or drippings, 2 tablespoons + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt and pepper to taste + +Soak beans over night in cold water to cover. In the morning place beans +over fire, adding water to cover if necessary. Add onion, rice and +tomatoes and cook slowly until beans are soft. If too thick, add water. +Mix flour and fat, and use to thicken stew. + + + +Baked Oatmeal with Cheese (9) + + Cooked oatmeal, 4 cups + Grated cheese, 1 cup + Salt and pepper + Soft bread crumbs, 1/4 cup + Fat, 1 teaspoon + +Put into an oiled baking dish a layer of left over oatmeal, then a +sprinkling of grated cheese, pepper and salt, another layer of oatmeal, +then cheese and seasonings; continue until the dish is full. Melt the fat +and mix with this the bread crumbs. Sprinkle over the top of the dish. +Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs are golden brown. + + + +Green Pea Loaf with White Sauce (9) + + Dried green peas, 1 cup + Cold water, 4 cups + Boiling water, 2 quarts + Soft, stale bread crumbs, 1-1/2 cups + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/2 teaspoon + Grated onion, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Fat, 3 tablespoons + +Soak peas in cold water over night. Cook in boiling water until soft. Rub +through a sieve. To one cup of this pea pulp add bread crumbs, milk, +seasoning, egg (slightly beaten), and melted fat. Turn mixture into a +small, oiled bread pan. Set pan into a second pan, containing water. Bake +mixture 40 minutes or until firm. Remove loaf from pan. Serve with white +sauce. One-half cup of cheese may be added to one and one-half cups of the +sauce. + + + +Mock Sausage (8) + + Lima beans, dried, 1/2 cup + Bread crumbs, 1/3 cup + Butter, 3 tablespoons + Egg, 1 + Pepper, few grains + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Sage, 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon + +Pick over and wash beans, cover with water, and let soak over night. +Drain; cook in boiling salted water until tender, about one and one-half +hours. Force through a strainer, add remaining ingredients. Shape into +form of sausages, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again. Sauté in fat +until brown. It requires about two-thirds cup crumbs and one-half egg for +dipping sausage. May be garnished with fried apples. + + + +Baked Soy or Togo Beans (6) + +Soy beans, known in the retail market as togo beans, resemble navy beans +in some ways. They contain, however, a considerable amount of fat. For +this reason neither pork nor other fat is used in cooking them unless it +is wanted for flavor. They are considerably richer in protein also. + +Wash and pick over one quart of soy beans. Cover with boiling water, boil +for 10 minutes, and soak over night in the same water. In the morning pour +off and save the water. Pour cold water over the beans and rub them +between the hands to remove the skins, which will float off in the water. +Removing the skins in this way takes only two or three minutes and greatly +improves the quality of the dish. If a few skins are left on, they will do +no harm, unless the dish is being prepared for a person of poor digestion. +Drain the beans, pour over them the water in which they were soaked, and +cook until tender at a temperature just below the boiling point. Pour off +the water, put the beans into a bean pot, cover with cold water, add one +and one-half tablespoonfuls of salt, and bake four or five hours in a +covered dish. Remove the cover and bake one hour more. + + + +Peanut Loaf (10) + + Chopped peanuts, 1 cup + Bread crumbs, 2 cups + Egg, 1 + Milk, 1 cup + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Paprika, 1/4 teaspoon + Melted fat, 1 tablespoon + +Mix dry ingredients, add beaten egg and milk. Put into a greased pan, pour +the melted fat on top, bake. Turn on a hot platter and serve with sauce. + + +Sauce for Loaf + + Hot water, 1 cup + Beef cube, 1 + Juice 1 lemon + Fat, 2 tablespoons + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/8 teaspoon + Few grains nutmeg + +Melt fat, add flour with seasoning, add hot water in which beef cube has +been dissolved. Just before serving add lemon juice. + +This nut loaf with its accompanying sauce is a highly nutritious dish and +is excellent for lunch or supper. Serve no meat or potatoes with it. + + + +Peanut Butter Bean Loaf (10) + + Peanut butter, 1/2 cup + Cooked beans, 1 cup + Soft bread crumbs (toasted), 1 cup + Milk, 1 cup + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/2 teaspoon + +The beans should be soaked over night and cooked in fresh water until +tender. Press through a sieve, add other ingredients, mix well. Shape into +a loaf, place in pan, and bake about two hours, basting with melted fat +and hot water. + + + +Peanut Butter Cream Soup (10) + + Milk, 1 quart + Onion (grated), 1 small + Flour, 1 tablespoon + Melted fat, 1 tablespoon + Peanut butter, 1 cup + Bay leaf, 1 + Celery (chopped) 3 stalks + Celery salt, 1 saltspoon + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + A little white pepper + Dash of paprika + +Heat milk in a double boiler, add peanut butter, onion, bay leaf, chopped +celery, and other seasoning. While the milk is heating, melt fat in a +separate sauce pan, stirring in flour as for cream sauce. When smooth add +the hot milk, after straining through a sieve. Serve at once with croutons +or tiny squares of bread browned till crisp. + + + +Peanut Fondue (8) + + Peanuts, shelled, 1 cup + Bread crumbs (soft), 1 cup + Milk, 1-2/3 cups + Egg, 1 + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Cayenne + +Grind peanuts in a meat grinder. Mix all ingredients except the white of +the egg. Beat the egg white stiff and fold in. Turn into a buttered +pudding dish and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 35 minutes. + + + +Peanut Soup (10) + + Blanched shelled peanuts, 2 cups + Onion, 1/4 cup + Celery, 1/4 cup + Carrot, 1/4 cup + Water, 2-1/2 cups + Fat, 1/4 cup + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/2 teaspoon + Milk, 2 cups + +Chop and crush the nuts until very fine; add the vegetables and water; +simmer 20 minutes. Make a white sauce of the other ingredients, mix the +two mixtures thoroughly and serve. + + + +Potato Soup with Carrots (4) + + Potatoes, 3 medium + Water, 2 cups + Flour, 4 tablespoons + Soup greens + Onion, 2 slices + Sprigs of parsley + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Carrot, 1 + Fat, 1-1/2 tablespoons + Salt and pepper + Stalk of celery + +Wash and pare potatoes. Cook in boiling salted water until they are soft. +Rub through colander. Use water in which potatoes were cooked to make up +the two cups of water for the soup. Cook carrot cut in cubes in boiling +water until soft; drain. Scald milk with onion, celery, and parsley. Add +milk and water to potatoes. Melt fat in sauce pan, add flour, and cook for +three minutes. Slowly add soup, stirring constantly. Boil for one minute, +season with salt and pepper. Add cubes of carrots and serve. + + + +Salmon en Casserole (1) + +Cook one cup of rice. When cold line baking dish. Take one can of salmon +and flake. Beat two eggs, one-third cup of milk, one tablespoon of butter, +pinch of salt, dash of paprika. Stir into the salmon lightly, cover +lightly with rice. Steam one hour, serve with white sauce. (This may also +be made with barley instead of rice.) + + + +Scalloped Salmon (1) + + Salmon, 1 can + Egg, 1 + Milk, 1 pint + Flour, 2 rounding tablespoons + Butter, 1-1/2 tablespoons + +Put the milk on stove in double boiler, keeping out one-half cup. Mix +butter and flour to a smooth paste, and add the egg well beaten, then the +one-half cup of cold milk. Mix well and then stir into the milk, which +should be scalding. Stir until smooth and thick like gravy. Season with +salt and pepper and set aside to cool. Butter a baking dish and fill with +alternate layers of flaked salmon and the cream dressing. The top layer +should be of the dressing. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and bake one-half +hour in moderate oven. + + + +Salmon Loaf (1) + + Salmon, 1 small can + Egg, 1 + Cracker crumbs, 1 cup + Sweet milk, 2 tablespoons + Paprika + Nutmeg + Salt + +Remove bones from salmon; break into small pieces, add well beaten egg, +seasoning, and cracker crumbs; bake in a well buttered dish for 15 +minutes; serve hot for lunch. + + + +Tamale Pie (12) + + Corn meal, 2 cups + Salt, 2 1/2 teaspoons + Boiling water, 6 cups + Onion, 1 + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Hamburger steak, 1 pound + Tomatoes, 2 cups + Cayenne pepper, 1/2 teaspoon, + or + Chopped sweet pepper, 1 small + Salt, 1 teaspoon + +Make a mush by stirring the corn meal and one and one-half teaspoons salt +into boiling water. Cook in a double boiler or over water for 45 minutes. +Brown the onion in the fat, add the Hamburger steak, and stir until the +red color disappears. Add the tomatoes, pepper, and salt. Grease a +baking-dish, put in a layer of corn meal mush, add the seasoned meat, and +cover with mush. Bake 30 minutes. Serves six. + + + +Turkish Pilaf (3) + + Washed rice, 1 cup + Raw lean beef or lamb, 1 pound + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Boiling water, 2 cups + Small onion or garlic, 2 cloves + Tomatoes, 2 cups + Olive oil or any fat, 2 tablespoons + +Fry onion cut in small pieces or the garlic in the fat until slightly +brown; add rice, seasonings, water, tomatoes, meat, and cook in a covered +dish until the rice is soft. The meat may be omitted, the rice cooked in +the tomatoes and water, and the whole covered with grated cheese and baked +until cheese is melted. + + + +Vegetable Stew + + Beef, 1/2 pound + Mutton, 1/2 pound + Carrots, diced, 1/2 cup + Potatoes, diced, 2 cups + Tomatoes, canned, 3/4 cup + Fat, 2 tablespoons + Carrot, 1 whole + Onion, sliced, 3 tablespoons + Cabbage, chopped, 1 cup + Flour, 1/4 cup + Bay leaf, 1/2 leaf + Cloves, 6 + Peppercorns, 6 + Parsley, chopped, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 2 teaspoons + Thyme, 1 sprig + Water, 7 cups + +Cut meat in small pieces, brown with onion in fat, add water, one carrot +in which cloves have been imbedded, and other vegetables. Tie bay leaf, +thyme, and peppercorns together in a piece of cheesecloth and cook with +stew about two hours (till vegetables are done). Remove bag of seasonings, +thicken stew with flour. Add more salt if needed. + + + + +PUDDINGS + + + +Apricot Tapioca Pudding (4) + + Apricots, 6 + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Pearl tapioca, 1 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Boiling water, 3 cups + +Cover the tapioca with cold water and soak for one hour. Drain off the +cold water, add the boiling water and salt, and cook over water (in a +double boiler if you have one) until the tapioca is transparent, and no +hard center portion remains. This will require about 30 minutes. Place the +apricots in a buttered baking dish. Add sugar to the tapioca, pour this +over the apricots, add apricot juice, and bake in a moderate oven for +about 20 minutes. Cool and serve. If dried apricots are to be used, they +should be soaked over night or several hours in cold water sufficient to +cover them. Cook in the water in which they have soaked until they are +tender. + + + +Cereal Pudding (8) + + Left over cereal, 3-1/2 cups + Apple sauce, 1/2 cup or + Apple, 1 + Sugar, 1 tablespoon + Butter, 1 tablespoon + Bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons + +Put a layer of cereal in the bottom of a buttered baking dish, then a +layer of apples or sauce, then sugar if the sauce has not been sweetened. +Then put in another layer of cereal, cover with buttered crumbs. Bake 30 +minutes if it has apple sauce in it, one hour if raw apples are used. +Serve with cream. + + + +Cereal Date Pudding (11) + + Cereal (half corn meal and half farina), 3/4 cup + Boiling water, 3 cups + Salt, 3/4 teaspoon + Chopped dates, 1 cup + Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup (light), 1/2 cup + Egg, 1 + +Stir the cereal mixture gradually into the boiling water, to which the +salt has been added. Cook directly over the flame for about five minutes, +stirring constantly, and then cook over water for one and one-half hours. +Add oleomargarine, syrup, egg, well beaten, and chopped dates. Turn into a +greased baking dish and bake for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven +(360-390° F.). + + + +Chocolate Bread Pudding (11) + + Bread, broken in small pieces, 2 1/2 cups + Corn syrup (dark), 1/2 cup + Brown sugar, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Chocolate, 2 squares + Milk, 1 1/2 cups + Hot water, 1 1/2 cups + Vanilla, 3/4 teaspoon + +Soak bread in milk; add syrup, brown sugar, egg, well beaten, and salt. +Melt chocolate in water; add gradually to bread mixture. Add vanilla. Bake +in custard cups, set in hot water, in a moderate oven. + + + +Eggless Steamed Pudding (11) + + Flour, 1 2/3 cups + Soda, 1/2 teaspoon + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/4 teaspoon + Allspice, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Hardened vegetable fat, 3 tablespoons + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Raisins (seeded and cut in pieces), 1 cup + +Sift together the flour, soda, salt, and spices; add the raisins. To milk +add molasses and melted fat; add liquid mixture gradually to dry +ingredients. Stir thoroughly. Turn into greased molds, filling them a +little over half full; cover and steam for about two and one-half hours. +Serve with pudding sauce or milk. (Baking powder cans are satisfactory +molds for steamed puddings.) + + + +Honey Pudding (5) + + Honey, 1/2 cup + Bread crumbs, 6 ounces + Milk, 1/2 cup + Rind of half a lemon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Eggs, 2 + Butter, 2 tablespoons + +Mix the honey and the bread crumbs and add the milk, seasonings, and yolks +of the eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly and then add the butter and the +whites of the eggs well beaten. Steam for about two hours in a pudding +mold which is not more than three-quarters full. + + + +Indian Pudding (3) + + Milk, 1 quart + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Corn meal, 1/3 cup + Ginger, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Cold milk, 1 cup + +Pour milk, scalded, over meal, and cook 20 minutes; add salt, ginger, and +molasses. Cook slowly in a buttered baking dish two hours. When half done, +add the cold milk and finish cooking. + + + +Baked Indian and Apple Pudding (8) + + Corn meal, 1/4 cup + Milk, 2 cups + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Molasses, 1/4 cup + Apple, 1 + +Sift corn meal slowly into the scalded milk, stirring constantly. Cook in +double boiler 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt, ginger, and +molasses. Put into greased baking dish and bake one hour in a slow oven, +stirring occasionally. Slice apple and stir into pudding. Bake until apple +is tender. + + + +Prune Brown Betty (11) + + Cooked prunes, stoned and cut into halves, 2-1/2 cups + Bread crumbs (dry), 1/2 cup + Corn syrup (dark), 1/4 cup + Lemon juice, 3 tablespoons + Grated rind of 1/4 lemon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon + Prune juice, 1/2 cup + +Mix together heated prune juice, fat, salt, corn syrup, lemon juice, lemon +rind, and cinnamon. Moisten bread crumbs with part of this mixture. Into a +greased baking dish put alternate layers of bread crumbs and prunes, +pouring part of liquid mixture over each layer of prunes. Bake in a +moderate oven about 45 minutes. + + + +Rice Pudding (11) + + Rice, 1/4 cup + Milk, 3/4 cup + Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Raisins, 3/4 cup + +Cook the rice in boiling salted water, until soft. Pour off water, add +milk, syrup, nutmeg, and raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (370-380° F.) +for 40 minutes. + + + +Spiced Pudding (11) + + Browned crusts of bread, 1 cup + Scalded milk, 2 cups + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Raisins, 1/2 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/4 teaspoon + +Soak the crusts in the milk until soft. Add molasses, salt, spices, and +raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380° F.), stirring occasionally at +first. Serve with milk or cream. + + + + + * * * * * + +The following pages contain advertisements of books by the same author or +on kindred subjects. + + + +FEEDING THE FAMILY + +BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE + +Illustrated, $2.10 + + +This is a clear and concise account in simple every-day terms of the ways +in which modern knowledge of the science of nutrition may be applied in +ordinary life. The food needs of the different members of the typical +family group--men, women, infants, children of various ages--are discussed +in separate chapters, and many concrete illustrations in the form of food +plans and dietaries are included. The problems of the housewife in trying +to reconcile the needs of different ages and tastes at the same table are +also taken up, as are the cost of food and the construction of menus. A +final chapter deals with feeding the sick. + +"The volume is so simply and entertainingly written that it cannot but be +enjoyed by anyone interested in the planning or preparation of household +meals, and it would be difficult to imagine a more helpful book to put +into the hands of a reader desiring information along such +lines."--_Trained Nurse_. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +A LABORATORY HAND-BOOK FOR DIETETICS + +BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE, PH.D. + +Assistant Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia +University + +Cloth, 8vo, $1.10 + + +Investigations into the quantitative requirements of the human body have +progressed so far as to make dietetics to a certain extent an exact +science, and to emphasize the importance of a quantitative study of food +materials. This little book explains the problems involved in the +calculation of food values and food requirements, and the construction of +dietaries, and furnishes reference tables which will minimize the labor +involved in such work without limiting dietary study to a few food +materials. + +Only brief statements of the conditions affecting food requirements have +been made, the reader being referred to general textbooks on the subject +of nutrition for fuller information, but such data have been included as +seem most useful in determining the amount of food for any normal +individual under varying conditions of age and activity. + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PART I + + FOOD VALUES AND FOOD REQUIREMENTS + + THE COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS. + + THE FUNCTIONS OF FOOD. + Food as a Source of Energy. + Food as Building Material. + Food in the Regulation of Body Processes. + + FOOD REQUIREMENT. + The Energy Requirement of Normal Adults. + The Energy Requirement of Children. + The Energy Requirement of the Aged. + The Protein Requirement. + The Fat and Carbohydrate Requirement. + The Ash Requirement. + + PART II + + PROBLEMS IN DIETARY CALCULATIONS + Studies in Weight, Measure, and Cost of Some Common Food Materials. + Relation between Percentage Composition and Weight. + Calculation of the Fuel Value of a Single Food Material. + Calculation of the Weight of a Standard or 100-Calorie Portion. + Food Value of a Combination of Food Materials. + Distribution of Foodstuffs in a Standard Portion of a Single Food + Material. + Calculation of a Standard Portion of a Combination of Food Materials. + Analysis of a Recipe. + Modification of Cow's Milk to a Required Formula. + Calculation of the Percentage Composition of a Food Mixture. + The Calculation of a Complete Dietary. + Scoring of the Dietary. + + REFERENCE TABLES + Refuse in Food Materials. + Conversion Tables--Grams to Ounces. + Conversion Tables--Ounces to Grams. + Conversion Tables--Pounds to Grams. + Food Values in Terms of Standard Units of Weight. + Ash Constituents in Percentages of the Edible Portion. + Ash Constituents in Standard or 100-Calorie Portions. + + APPENDIX + The Equipment of a Dietetics Laboratory. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +THE FOOD PROBLEM + +BY VERNON KELLOGG AND ALONZO E. TAYLOR. $1.25 + + + "Food is always more or less of a problem in every phase of its + production, handling and consumption. It is a problem with every + farmer, every transporter and seller, every householder. It is a + problem with every town, state and nation. And now very + conspicuously, it is a problem with three great groups, namely the + Allies, The Central Empires and The Neutrals; in a word it is a + great international problem." + +These sentences from the introduction indicate the scope of _The Food +Problem_ by Vernon Kellogg and Alonzo E. Taylor. + +Both authors are members of the United States Food Administration. Dr. +Kellogg is also connected with the Commission for relief in Belgium and +professor in Stanford University. Mr. Taylor is a member of the Exports +Administrative Board and professor in the University of Pennsylvania. The +preface is by Herbert Hoover, United States Food Administrator and +Chairman for the Commission of Relief in Belgium. + +The food problem of today, of our nation, therefore, has as its most +conspicuous phase an international character. Some of the questions which +the book considers are: + +What is the Problem in detail? + +What are the general conditions of its solution? + +What are the immediate and particulars which concern us, and are within +our power to affect? + +And finally, what are we actually doing to meet our problem? + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + Introduction: The International Problem. + + Part I. The Problem and the Solution. + + Chapter I. The Food Situation of the Western Allies and the United + States. + II. Food Administration. + III. How England, France and Italy are Controlling and Saving Food. + IV. Food Control in Germany and Its Lessons. + + Part II. The Technology of Food Use. + + Chapter V. The Physiology of Nutrition. + VI. The Sociology of Nutrition. + VII. The Sociology of Nutrition (Continued). + VIII. Grain and Alcohol. + + Conclusion: Patriotism and Food. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +TWO TEXTBOOKS OF THE HOUSEHOLD ARTS + + +BY HELEN KINNE, Professor, AND ANNA M. COOLEY, Associate Professor of +Household Arts Education, Teachers College, Columbia University + +Cloth, 12mo, ill. $1.10 + + +FOODS AND HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT + +Treats specifically of foods, their production, sanitation, cost, +nutritive value, preparation, and serving, these topics being closely +interwoven with the practical aspects of household management; and they +are followed by a study of the household budget and accounts, methods of +buying, housewifery, and laundering. It includes about 160 carefully +selected and tested recipes, together with a large number of cooking +exercises of a more experimental nature designed to develop initiative and +resourcefulness. + +The book is new, practical, and economical. It is well illustrated and +attractively bound. + + +SHELTER AND CLOTHING + +This book takes up fully, but with careful balance, every phase of +home-making: location, structure, plan, sanitation, heating, lighting, +decorating, and furnishing. The second part is devoted to textiles, +sewing, and dressmaking. Sewing, drafting, designing, fitting, and cutting +are treated in considerable detail as is also the making of the personal +budget for clothing. + +The authors hold that harmony will be the keynote of the home in +proportion as the makers of the home regard the plan, the sanitation, the +decoration of the house itself, and as they exercise economy and wisdom in +the provision of clothing. + + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME*** + + +******* This file should be named 14066-8.txt or 14066-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/0/6/14066 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Everyday Foods in War Time</p> +<p>Author: Mary Swartz Rose</p> +<p>Release Date: November 17, 2004 [eBook #14066]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME***</p> +<br /><br /><h4>E-text prepared by Audrey Longhurst, Barbara Tozier,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h4><br /><br /> +<hr class="full" /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME</h1> +<p class="cen">BY</p> +<h2>MARY SWARTZ ROSE</h2> +<h5>ASSISTANT-PROFESSOR, DEPARTMENT OF NUTRITION,<br /> + TEACHERS COLLEGE, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY</h5> +<h4>New York</h4> +<h4>1918</h4> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> +<br /> +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<p>The time has come, the Aggies said,</p> +<p class="i2">To talk of many things,</p> +<p>Of what to eat, of calories,</p> +<p class="i2">Of cabbages and kings,</p> +<p>Of vitamines and sausages,</p> +<p class="i2">And whether costs have wings.</p> +</div> +<p class="rgt"><em>Journal of Home Economics</em>,<br /> +November, 1917.</p> +</div> +<hr class="full" /> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> +<p class="quote">“FOOD IS FUEL FOR FIGHTERS. Do not waste it. +Save WHEAT, MEAT, SUGARS AND FATS. Send more to our Soldiers, +Sailors and Allies.”</p> +<p>The patriotic housewife finds her little domestic boat sailing +in uncharted waters. The above message of the Food Administration +disturbs her ordinary household routine, upsets her menus and puts +her recipes out of commission. It also renders inoperative some of +her usual methods of economy at a time when rising food prices make +economy more imperative than ever. To be patriotic and still live +on one’s income is a complex problem. This little book was +started in response to a request for “a war message about +food.” It seemed to the author that a simple explanation of +the part which some of our common foods play in our diet might be +both helpful and reassuring. To change one’s menu is often +trying; to be uncertain whether the substituted foods will preserve +one’s health and strength makes adjustment doubly difficult. +It is hoped that the brief chapters which follow will make it +easier to “save wheat, meat, sugars and fats” and to +make out an acceptable bill of fare without excessive cost.</p> +<p>Thanks are due to the Webb Publishing Company, St. Paul, +Minnesota, for permission to reprint three of the chapters, which +appeared originally in <em>The Farmer’s Wife</em>.</p> +<p>TEACHERS COLLEGE, Columbia University, New York City.</p> +<p><em>December 1, 1917.</em></p> +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a id="Contents" name="Contents">TABLE OF CONTENTS</a></h2> +<h3>CHAPTER</h3> +<ol style="list-style-type: upper-roman;"> +<li><a href="#Ch_1">THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_2">CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_3">THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_4">THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_5">ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES?</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_6">FAT AND VITAMINES</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_7">“SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING +NICE”</a></li> +<li><a href="#Ch_8">ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME +TIME</a></li> +<li style="list-style-type:none;"><a href= +"#Appx">APPENDIX—SOME WAR TIME RECIPES</a></li> +</ol> +<hr class="full" /> +<h1>EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME</h1> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_1" name="Ch_1">CHAPTER I</a></h2> +<h3>THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p class="note">(Reprinted from <em>The Farmer's Wife</em>, by +permission of the Webb Publishing Company.)</p> +<p>There is a quaint old fairy tale of a friendly pitcher that came +and took up its abode in the home of an aged couple, supplying them +from its magic depths with food and drink and many other comforts. +Of this tale one is reminded in considering the place of the milk +pitcher in the home. How many housewives recognize the bit of +crockery sitting quietly on the shelf as one of their very best +friends? How many know that it will cover many of their mistakes in +the choice of food for their families? That it contains mysterious +substances upon which growth depends? That it stands ready to save +them both work and worry in regard to food? That it is really the +only indispensable article on the bill of fare?</p> +<p>Diet is like a house, a definite thing, though built of +different kinds of material. For a house we need wall material, +floor material, window, ceiling, chimney stuffs and so forth. We +may, if we like, make floors, walls, and ceilings all of the same +kind of stuff, wood for example, but we should need glass for +windows and bricks or tile for chimneys. Or, again, we may choose +brick for walls, floors, and chimneys but it would not do any +better than wood for windows, would be rather unsatisfactory for +ceilings, and impossible for doors. In other words, we could not +build a modern house from one kind of material only and we really +need at least four to carry out even a simple plan.</p> +<p>In a similar fashion, diet is constructed from fuel material, +body-building material and body-regulating material. No diet is +perfect in which these are not all represented. Now, foods are like +sections of houses. Some correspond to single parts, as a floor or +a window or perhaps a chimney; others to a house complete except +for windows and roof; still others to a house lacking only a door +or two. It takes some thought to put them together so that we shall +have all kinds of parts without a great many extra ones of certain +kinds and not enough of others.</p> +<p>Milk is unique in that it comes nearest of all foods to being a +complete diet in itself. It is like the house with only a door +missing. We could be quite comfortable in such a house for a long +time though we could make a more complete diet by adding some +graham bread or an apple or some spinach.</p> +<p>We all associate milk with cows and cows with farms, but how +closely is milk associated with the farm table? Is it prized as the +most valuable food which the farm produces? Every drop should be +used as food; and this applies to skim milk, sour milk, and +buttermilk as well as sweet milk. Do we all use milk to the best +advantage in the diet? Here are a few points which it is well to +bear in mind:</p> +<p><em>Milk will take the place of meat.</em> The world is facing a +meat famine. The famine was on the way before the war began but it +has approached with tremendous speed this last year. Every cow +killed and eaten means not only so much less meat available but so +much less of an adequate substitute. Lean meat contributes to the +diet chiefly protein and iron. We eat it primarily for the protein. +Hence in comparing meat and milk we think first of their protein +content. One and one-fourth cups of milk will supply as much +protein as two ounces of lean beef. The protein of milk is largely +the part which makes cottage cheese. So cottage cheese is a good +meat substitute and a practical way of using part of the skim milk +when the cream is taken off for butter. One and one-half ounces of +cottage cheese (one-fourth cup) are the protein equivalent of two +ounces of lean beef. Skim milk and buttermilk are just as good +substitutes for meat as whole milk. Since meat is one of the most +expensive items in the food bill, its replacement by milk is a very +great financial economy. This is true even if the meat is raised on +the farm, as food for cattle is used much more economically in the +production of milk than of beef.</p> +<p><em>Milk is the greatest source of calcium (lime).</em> Lime is +one of the components of food that serves two purposes; it is both +building material for bones and regulating material for the body as +a whole, helping in several important ways to maintain good health. +It is essential that everyone have a supply of lime and +particularly important that all growing infants, children, and +young people have plenty for construction of bones and teeth. There +is almost none in meat and bread, none in common fats and sugars, +and comparatively few common foods can be taken alone and digested +in large enough quantities to insure an adequate supply; whereas a +pint of milk (whole, skim, or buttermilk) will guarantee to a grown +person a sufficient amount, and a quart a day will provide for the +greater needs of growing children. Whatever other foods we have, we +cannot afford to leave milk out of the diet because of its lime. +Under the most favorable dietary conditions, when the diet is +liberal and varied, an adult should have <em>at least</em> half a +pint of milk a day and no child should be expected to thrive with +less than a pint.</p> +<p><em>Milk contains a most varied assortment of materials needed +in small amounts</em> for the body welfare, partly for constructive +and partly for regulating purposes. These are rather irregularly +distributed in other kinds of food materials. When eggs, +vegetables, and cereals are freely used, we are not likely to +suffer any lack; but when war conditions limit the number of foods +which we can get, it is well to remember that the more limited the +variety of foods in the diet the more important milk becomes.</p> +<p><em>Milk will take the place of bread, butter, sugar, and other +foods used chiefly for fuel.</em> The body is an engine which must +be stoked regularly in order to work. The more work done the more +fuel needed. That is what we mean when we talk about the food +giving “working strength.” A farmer and his wife and +usually all the family need much fuel because they do much physical +work. Even people whose work is physically light require +considerable fuel. A quart of milk will give as much working force +as half a pound of bread, one-fourth of a pound of butter, or six +ounces of sugar. And this is in addition to the other advantages +already mentioned.</p> +<p><em>Milk contains specifics for growth.</em> Experiments with +animals have taught us that there are two specific substances, +known as vitamines, which must be present in the diet if a young +animal is to grow. If either one is absent, growth is impossible. +Both are to be found in milk, one in the cream and the other in the +skim milk or whey. For this reason children should have whole milk +rather than skim milk. Of course, butter and skim milk should +produce the same result as whole milk. Eggs also have these +requisites and can be used to supplement milk for either one, but +as a rule it is more practical to depend upon milk, and usually +more economical.</p> +<p>For little children, milk is best served as a beverage. But as +children grow up, the fluidity of milk makes them feel as if it +were not food enough and it is generally better to use it freely in +the kitchen first, and then, if there is any surplus, put it on the +table as a beverage or serve it thus to those who need an extra +supply—the half-grown boys, for instance, who need more food +in a day than even a hard-working farmer.</p> +<p>A good plan is to set aside definitely, as a day’s supply, +a quart apiece for each person under sixteen and a pint apiece for +each one over this age. Then see at night how well one has +succeeded in disposing of it. If there is much left, one should +consider ways of using it to advantage. The two simplest probably +are, first, as cream sauce for vegetables of all sorts; for +macaroni or hominy with or without cheese; or for hard cooked eggs +or left-over meats; and next in puddings baked a long time in the +oven so that much of the water in the milk is evaporated. Such +puddings are easy to prepare on almost any scale and are invaluable +for persons with big appetites because they are concentrated +without being unwholesome.</p> +<p>The milk pitcher and the vegetable garden are the best friends +of the woman wishing to set a wholesome and economical table. +Vegetables supplement milk almost ideally, since they contain the +vegetable fiber which helps to guard against constipation, and the +iron which is the lacking door in the “house that milk +built.”</p> +<p>Vegetables which are not perfect enough to serve uncooked, like +the broken leaves of lettuce and the green and tough parts of +celery, are excellent cooked and served with a cream sauce. Cream +sauce makes it possible also to cook enough of a vegetable for two +days at once, sending it to the table simply dressed in its own +juices or a little butter the first time and making a scalloped +dish with cream sauce and crumbs the next day. Vegetables which do +not lend themselves to this treatment can be made into cream soups, +which are excellent as the hot dish for supper, because they can be +prepared in the morning and merely reheated at serving time.</p> +<p>Finally, the addition of milk in liberal quantities to tea and +coffee (used of course only by adults); its use without dilution +with water in cocoa; and instead of water in bread when that is +made at home, ought to enable a housewife to dispose satisfactorily +of her day’s quota of milk. If it should accumulate, it can +be dispatched with considerable rapidity in the form of ice cream +or milk sherbet. When there is much skim milk, the latter is a most +excellent way of making it popular, various fruits in their seasons +being used for flavor, as strawberries, raspberries, and peaches, +with lemons to fall back on when no native fruit is at hand.</p> +<p>The world needs milk today as badly as wheat. All that we can +possibly spare is needed in Europe for starving little ones. In any +shortage the slogan must be “children first.” But in +any limited diet milk is such a safeguard that we should bend our +energies to saving it from waste and producing more, rather than +learning to do without it. Skim milk from creameries is too +valuable to be thrown away. Everyone should be on the alert to +condemn any use of milk except as food and to encourage +condensation and drying of skim milk to be used as a substitute for +fresh milk.</p> +<p>When the milk pitcher is allowed to work its magic for the human +race, we shall have citizens of better physique than the records of +our recruiting stations show today. Even when the family table is +deprived of its familiar wheat bread and meat, we may be strong if +we invoke the aid of this friendly magician.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_2" name="Ch_2">CHAPTER II</a></h2> +<h3>CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p class="note">(Reprinted from <em>The Farmer's Wife</em>, by +permission of the Webb Publishing Company.)</p> +<p>“Save wheat!” This great slogan of our national food +campaign has been echoed and reëchoed for six months, but do +we yet realize that it means US? We have had, hitherto, a great +deal of wheat in our diet. Fully one-third of our calories have +come from wheat flour. To ask us to do without wheat is to shake +the very foundation of our daily living. How shall we be able to do +without it? What shall we substitute for it? These are questions +which every housewife must ask and answer before she can take her +place in the Amazon Army of Food Conservers.</p> +<p>Is it not strange that out of half a dozen different grains +cultivated for human consumption, the demand should concentrate +upon wheat? One might almost say that the progress of civilization +is marked by raised bread. And wheat has, beyond all other grains, +the unique properties that make possible a light, porous yet +somewhat tenacious loaf. We like the taste of it, mild but sweet; +the feel of it, soft yet firm; the comfort of it, almost perfect +digestion of every particle. We have been brought up on it and it +is a hardship to change our food habits. It takes courage and +resolution. It takes visions of our soldiers crossing the seas to +defend us from the greedy eye of militarism and thereby deprived of +so many things which we still enjoy. Shall we hold back from them +the “staff of life” which they need so much more than +we?</p> +<p>Can we live without wheat? Certainly, and live well. We must +recognize the scientific fact that no one food (with the exception +of milk) is indispensable. There are four letters in the food +alphabet: <em>A</em>, fuel for the body machine; <em>B</em>, +protein for the upkeep of the machinery; <em>C</em>, mineral salts, +partly for upkeep and partly for lubrication—to make all +parts work smoothly together; <em>D</em>, vitamines, subtle and +elusive substances upon whose presence depends the successful use +by the body of all the others. These four letters, rightly +combined, spell health. They are variously distributed in food +materials. Sometimes all are found in one food (milk for example), +sometimes only one (as in sugar), sometimes two or three. The +amounts also vary in the different foods. To build up a complete +diet we have to know how many of these items are present in a given +food and also how much of each is there.</p> +<p>Now, cereals are much alike in what they contribute to the diet. +In comparing them we are apt to emphasize their differences, much +as we do in comparing two men. One man may be a little taller, a +little heavier, have a different tilt to his nose, but any two men +are more alike than a man and a dog. So corn has a little less +protein than wheat and considerably less lime, yet corn and wheat +are, nutritionally, more alike than either is like sugar.</p> +<p>None of the cereals will make a complete diet by itself. If we +take white bread as the foundation, we must add to it something +containing lime, such as milk or cheese; something containing iron, +such as spinach, egg yolk, meat, or other iron-rich food; something +containing vitamines, such as greens or other vitamine-rich food; +something to reënforce the proteins, as milk, eggs, meat, or +nuts. It is not possible to make a perfect diet with only one other +kind of food besides white bread. It can be done with three: bread, +milk, and spinach, for example.</p> +<p>If we substitute whole wheat for white bread, we can make a +complete diet with two foods—this and milk. We get from the +bran and the germ what in the other case we got from the spinach. +<em>All the cereals can be effectively supplemented by milk and +green vegetables.</em> If green vegetables (or substitutes for them +like dried peas and beans or fruit) are hard to get we should give +preference to cereals from which the bran coats have not been +removed, such as oatmeal and whole wheat. Then the diet will not be +deficient in iron, which is not supplied in large enough amounts +from white bread and milk. Oatmeal is the richest in iron of all +the cereals.</p> +<p>With such knowledge, we may alter our diet very greatly without +danger of undernutrition. But we must learn to cook other cereals +at least as well as we do wheat. Without proper cooking they are +unpalatable and unwholesome, and they are not so easy to cook as +wheat. They take a longer time and we cannot get the same culinary +effects, since with the exception of rye they will not make a light +loaf. Fortunately we are not asked to deny ourselves wheat +entirely, only to substitute other cereals for part of it. Let each +housewife resolve when next she buys flour to buy at the same time +one-fourth as much of some other grain, finely ground, rye, corn, +barley, according to preference, and mix the two thoroughly at +once. Then she will be sure not to forget to carry out her good +intentions. Bread made of such a mixture will be light and tender, +and anything that cannot be made with it had better be dispensed +with in these times.</p> +<p>Besides the saving of wheat for our country’s sake, we +shall do well to economize in it for our own. Compared with other +cereals, wheat is expensive. We can get more food, in every sense +of the word, from half a pound of oatmeal than we can from a +twelve-ounce loaf of white bread, and the oatmeal will not cost +one-half as much as the bread. A loaf of Boston brown bread made +with one cupful each of cornmeal, oatmeal (finely ground), rye +flour, molasses, and skim milk will have two and one-half times the +food value of a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread and will cost +little more. One-half pound of cornmeal, supplemented by a half +pint of milk, will furnish more of everything needed by the body +than such a twelve-ounce loaf, usually at less cost.</p> +<p>It pays at all times to use cereals in other forms than bread, +for both health and economy. Does your family eat cereal for +breakfast? A dish of oatmeal made from one-fourth cupful of the dry +cereal will take the place of two slices of white bread, each about +half an inch thick and three inches square, and give us iron +besides. Served with milk, it will make a well-balanced meal. When +we add a little fruit to give zest and some crisp corn bread to +contrast with the soft mush, we have a meal in which we may take a +just pride, <em>provided the oatmeal is properly cooked</em>.</p> +<p>A good dish of oatmeal is as creditable a product as a good loaf +of bread. It cannot be made without taking pains to get the right +proportions of meal, water, and salt, and to cook thoroughly, which +means at least four hours in a double boiler, over night in a +fireless cooker, or half an hour at twenty pounds in a pressure +cooker. Half-cooked oatmeal is most unwholesome, as well as +unpalatable. It is part of our patriotic duty not to give so useful +a food a bad reputation.</p> +<p>The man who does hard physical labor, especially in the open +air, may complain that the oatmeal breakfast does not “stay +by” him. This is because it digests rapidly. What he needs is +a little fat stirred into the mush before it is sent to the table, +or butter as well as milk and sugar served with it. If one must +economize, the cereal breakfast should always be the rule. It is +impossible in any other way to provide for a family adequately on a +small sum, especially where there are growing children.</p> +<p>Next to oatmeal, hominy is one of the cheapest breakfast foods. +It has less flavor and is improved by the addition of a few dates +cut into quarters or some small stewed seedless raisins, which also +add the iron which hominy lacks. For the adults of the family the +staying qualities of hominy and cornmeal can be increased by +cutting the molded mush in slices and frying till a crisp crust is +formed. This can be obtained more easily if the cereals are cooked +in a mixture of milk and water instead of water alone. The milk +supplements the cereal as acceptably as in a dish of mush and milk. +Cornmeal needs even more cooking than oatmeal to develop an +agreeable flavor. It can be improved by the addition of an equal +amount of farina or cream of wheat.</p> +<p>Cereals for dinner are acceptable substitutes for such +vegetables as potatoes, both for economy and for variety. The whole +grains, rice, barley, and hominy, lend themselves best to such use. +Try a dish of creamed salmon with a border of barley; one of hominy +surrounded by fried apples; or a bowl of rice heaped with bananas +baked to a turn and removed from their skins just before serving, +and be glad that the war has stirred you out of food ruts!</p> +<p>Cereals combined with milk make most wholesome puddings, each +almost a well-balanced meal in itself. They are easier to make than +pies, shortcakes, and other desserts which require wheat flour, and +they are splendid growing food for boys and girls.</p> +<p>For the hard-working man who misses the slowly-digesting pie, +serve the puddings with a hard sauce or add a little butter when +making them. For the growing children, raisins, dates, and other +fruits are welcome additions on account of their iron. From half a +cupful to a cupful of almost any cereal pudding made with milk is +the equivalent of an ordinary serving of pie.</p> +<p>Aside from the avoidance of actual waste of food materials, +there seems to be no one service so imperative for housewives to +render in these critical times as the mastery of the art of using +cereals. These must be made to save not only wheat but meat, and +for most of us also money.</p> +<p>A wholesome and yet economical diet may be built upon a plan +wherein we find for an average working man fourteen ounces of +cereal food and one pint of milk, from two to four ounces of meat +or a good meat substitute, two ounces of fat, three ounces of sugar +or other sweeteners, at least one kind of fruit, and one kind of +vegetable besides potatoes (more if one has a garden).</p> +<p>The cereal may furnish half the fuel value of the diet, partly +bread-stuffs and partly in some of the other ways as suggested, +without any danger of undernutrition. Remember the fable of the +farmer who told his sons he had left them a fortune and bade them +dig on his farm for it after his death, and how they found wealth +not as buried treasure but through thorough tillage of the soil. So +one might leave a message to woman to look in the cereal pot, for +there is a key to health and wealth, and a weapon to win the +greatest war the world has ever seen.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_3" name="Ch_3">CHAPTER III</a></h2> +<h3>THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>“Do not buy a pound of meat until you have bought three +quarts of milk” is a “war sign” pointing two +ways. On the one hand it tells us that we need to save meat; on the +other, that we should encourage the production of that most +indispensable food—milk.</p> +<p>But what a revolution in some households if this advice is +heeded! Statisticians tell us that Americans have been consuming +meat at the rate of 171 pounds per capita per year, which means +nearly half a pound apiece every day for each man, woman, child, +and infant in arms. Now, as mere infants and some older folk have +not had any, it follows that many of us have had a great deal more. +Did we need it? Shall we be worse off without it? Meat is +undeniably popular. In spite of the rising price and the patriotic +spirit of conservation, meat consumption goes on in many quarters +at much the usual rate. There is probably no other one food so +generally liked. It has a decided and agreeable flavor, a +satisfactory “chew,” and leaves an after-sense of being +well fed that many take as the sign of whether they are well +nourished or not. It digests well, even when eaten rapidly, and +perhaps partly for this reason is favored by the hurried man of +affairs. It is easy to prepare and hence is appreciated by the +cook, who knows that even with unskillful treatment it will be +acceptable and require few accessories to make an agreeable meal. +Its rich flavor helps to relieve the flatness of foods like rice, +hominy, beans, or bread. From this point of view there is no such +thing as a “meat substitute.”</p> +<p>But, nutritionally speaking, meat is only one of many; +undeniably a good source of protein, but no better than milk or +eggs. A lamb chop is a very nice item on a bill of fare, but the +protein it contains can be secured just as well from one large egg, +or two level tablespoonfuls of peanut butter, or one and one-fourth +ounces of cheese; or a part of the time from a quarter of a cup of +dried navy beans or a little less of dried split peas.</p> +<p>Meat is highly regarded as a source of iron; but, again, it has +no monopoly of this important building-stone in the house of diet. +The eggs, or peas, or half the beans mentioned above would any one +of them furnish more iron than the lamb chop, while a quarter of a +cup of cooked spinach or a small dish of string beans would furnish +quite as much. Besides green vegetables, fruit, and the yolk of +egg, cereals are a not inconsiderable source of iron. A man would +have adequate nourishment for a day, including a sufficient supply +of iron, if he were doing only moderate physical labor, from one +pint of milk, one and one-half pounds of whole wheat bread, and +three medium-sized apples. Beef juice is often used as a source of +iron for children and undoubtedly it is one which is palatable and +digestible, but it takes a quarter of a pound of beef to get a few +tablespoonfuls of juice, and a tablespoonful of juice would hardly +contain as much iron as one egg yolk; and it seems probable that +the iron of the egg yolk would be better utilized for the making of +good red blood.</p> +<p>Meat is good fuel for the human machine if used in moderate +amounts along with other food. But meat is no better fuel than +other food. An ordinary lamb chop will furnish no more calories +than a dish of oatmeal, a piece of bread an inch thick and three +inches square, a large apple or banana, an egg, five ounces +(five-eighths of a cup) of milk, or a tablespoonful of peanut +butter. The fatter meat is the higher its fuel value (providing the +fat is used for food). A tablespoonful of bacon fat or beef +drippings has the same fuel value as a tablespoonful of butter or +lard, or as the lamb chop mentioned above. The man who insists that +he has to have meat for working strength judges by how he feels +after a meal and not by the scientific facts. While in the long run +appetite serves as a measure of food requirement, we can find +plenty of instances where it does not make a perfect measure. Some +people have too large appetites for their body needs and get too +fat from sheer surplus of fuel stored in the body for future needs +as fat. If such people have three good meals a day all the time, +there never is any future need and the fat stays. Other people have +too small appetites for their needs and they never seem to get a +surplus of fuel on hand. They live, as it were, from hand to mouth. +Anyone accustomed to eating meat will have an unsatisfied feeling +at first after a meal without meat. The same is true of other +highly flavored foods. It is well for the cook to bear this in mind +and serve a few rather highly seasoned dishes when there is no meat +on the bill of fare. A very sweet dessert will often satisfy this +peculiar sensation, and it can be allayed, at least in part, by the +drinking of water some little time after the meal. Such a sensation +will pass away when one becomes accustomed to the change in diet. +It is probably due to certain highly flavored substances dissolved +in the meat juices which are known to be excellent stimulants to +the flow of gastric juice and which are stimulating in other ways. +These have no food value in themselves, but, nevertheless, we prize +meat for them, as is shown by the distaste we have for meat which +has its juices removed. “Soup meat” has always been a +problem for the housewife—hard to make palatable—and +yet the greater part of the nourishment of meat is left in the meat +itself after soup is made from it.</p> +<p>Let us frankly recognize then that we eat meat because we like +it—for its flavor and texture rather than any peculiar +nourishing properties—and that it is only our patriotic +self-denial or force of economic circumstances that induces us to +forgo our accustomed amounts of a food which is pleasant and (in +moderation) wholesome. We must save meat that the babies of the +world may have milk to drink. Nowhere in Europe is there enough +milk for babies today. A conservative request for one European city +alone was a shipment of one million pounds of condensed milk per +month! If cattle are killed for food there will be little milk to +send and the babies will perish. We must save meat for our soldiers +and sailors, because they need it more than we do. It is not only +easily transported, but one of the few things to give zest to their +necessarily limited fare. Fresh fruits and green vegetables, which +may serve us as appetizers, are not to be found on the war fields. +Dainty concoctions from cheese and nuts may provide for us flavor +as well as nutriment, but meat is the alternative to the dull +monotony of bread and beans for the soldier—the tonic of +appetite, the stimulant to good digestion. We can scarcely send him +anything to take its place.</p> +<p>We must save meat, too, as a general food economy. Meat is +produced at the expense of grain, which we might eat ourselves. And +the production of meat is a very wasteful process. Grains have a +fuel value for man approximating 1,600 calories per pound. A pound +of meat in the form of beef will require the consumption by the +animal of some fourteen pounds of grain. The pound of beef will +furnish perhaps 1,200 calories, while the grain consumed will +represent over 20,000 calories. The production of milk from grain +is only about one-third as expensive, so the purchase of three +quarts of milk to one pound of meat is an economy in more ways than +one.</p> +<p>Saving for the rest of the world will not be without some +physical advantage to ourselves, if we have been accustomed to +indulge in meat freely. Among the well-to-do meat eating is apt to +be overdone to the extent of affecting the kidneys and the +arteries, and some enforced restriction would be a real advantage +to health, as has been demonstrated in other than war times. +Because a food is good is no reason for unlimited quantities; an +ounce of sugar a day is wholesome—a pound is likely to result +in both indigestion and a badly balanced diet. A quarter of a pound +of meat a day is not undesirable for an adult, but a pound a day +may result in general overeating or in the special ills which are +related directly to a large quantity of meat. One of these is an +upsetting of a proper balance of food elements in the diet. Diets +high in meat are apt to be low in milk and consequently low in +calcium. If the income is limited this is almost sure to be the +case, since there will not be enough money to provide meat freely +and at the same time satisfy other nutritive requirements. Such +diets are also likely to be low in fuel value and not provide +enough working force even while men are declaring that they must +have meat to give them strength. They would have more strength and +a better diet from every point of view if part of the meat money +were spent for milk. So the injunction to buy three quarts of milk +to one pound of meat is a good rule for securing a well balanced +and ample diet at the lowest cost.</p> +<p>Another good rule is to spend no more for meat, fish, and eggs +than for milk, and as much for fruits and vegetables as for meat, +fish, and eggs. Families very commonly spend as much as one-third +of the food money for meat; and, while they may secure a full third +of their protein, iron, and phosphorus in this way, they may not +get more than a sixth of their fuel and almost no calcium. Three +quarts of milk at fourteen cents a quart will yield about 2,000 +calories. For an expenditure of forty-two cents for beef as free +from waste as milk, we would pay perhaps thirty-two cents per +pound. A pound and a quarter of lean beef would yield about 1,000 +calories. So as fuel alone the milk would be twice as cheap as the +meat. Three quarts of milk would yield almost if not quite as much +protein as the meat and a liberal supply of calcium to offset the +iron furnished by the meat. Everything considered, then, milk is a +better investment than meat. The same is true of some of the other +foods which supply protein in the diet such as dry peas and beans; +cheese and peanut butter are at least twice as valuable +nutritionally as beef. The domestic problem is to make palatable +dishes from these foods. This requires time and patience. The cook +must not get discouraged if the first trial does not bring marked +success. The rest of the family should count it their +“bit” to eat valiantly until they can eat joyfully.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_4" name="Ch_4">CHAPTER IV</a></h2> +<h3>THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>Never did it seem truer that “blessings brighten as they +take their flight” than when the potato went off the market +or soaring prices put it out of reach in the winter of 1917. +“How shall I plan my meals without it?” was the +housewife’s cry. “How shall I enjoy my meals without +it?” said all the millions of potato eaters who immediately +forgot that there was still a large number of foods from which they +might extract some modicum of enjoyment.</p> +<p>And so the Nutrition Expert was asked to talk about +“potato substitutes” and expected to exercise some +necromancy whereby that which was not a potato might become a +potato. Now, the Nutrition Expert was very imperturbable—not +at all disturbed by the calamity which had befallen our tables. +That unfeeling person saw potatoes, not in terms of their hot +mealiness and spicy mildness, but in terms of that elusive thing +called “DIET.” The vanishing tuber was bidden to answer +the dietary roll-call:</p> +<table summary="dietary roll-call" style= +"width:80%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td>“Proteins?”</td> +<td width="30%">“Here!”</td> +<td width="40%">Answer somewhat faint but suggesting remarkable +worth.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Fats?”</td> +<td>No answer.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Carbohydrates?”</td> +<td>Loud note from</td> +<td>“Starch.”</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Mineral salts?”</td> +<td>“Here!”</td> +<td>From a regular chorus, among which “Potassium” and +“Iron” easily distinguishable.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>“Vitamines and Other Accessories?”</td> +<td>“Here! Here!”</td> +<td>Especially vociferous, the “Anti-Scorbutic +Property.”</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>“This is a good showing for any single food material. The +potato, as truly as bread, may be called a ‘staff of +life.’ Men have lived in health upon it for many months +without any other food save oleomargarine. Its protein, though +small in amount, is most efficient in body-building, its salts are +varied in kind and liberal in amount, and it furnishes a large +amount of very easily digested fuel besides. It is at its best when +cooked in the simplest possible way—baked or boiled in its +skin. Nevertheless we are not absolutely dependent upon the +potato.”</p> +<p>“Alas,” said the housewife, “this +doesn’t tell me what to cook for dinner!” +“Patience, Madam, we shall see about that.” The fact +that starch is present is what makes the potato seem so +substantial. But bread, rice, hominy, in fact, all cereal foods can +supply starch just as well. Pick out the one you fancy and serve it +for your dinner. One good-sized roll or a two-inch cube of corn +bread, or three-fourths of a cup of boiled rice will sustain you +just as well as a medium-sized potato. A banana, baked or fried, +makes an excellent substitute for a potato. An apple is also a very +palatable potato equivalent, if you want something more spicy than +hominy or corn bread. Why mourn over the lost potato?</p> +<p>But how about those mineral salts? Well, the potato has no +monopoly on those, either, though it is ordinarily a very valuable +contributor. Milk has already been mentioned as one of the great +safeguarding sources of so-called ash constituents. Others are +vegetables and fruits of different kinds. These have been a +neglected and sometimes a despised part of the diet: “Why +spend money for that which is not meat?” is often taken +literally. Even food specialists have been known to say, +“Fruits and vegetables are mostly water and indigestible +fiber; they have little food value.” This is a good deal like +saying, “If your coat be long enough you do not need a pair +of shoes.” A potato has as much iron as an egg yolk or a +medium-sized chop. This is one more reason why we should be sorry +to take the useful tuber from our tables, but we may feel a certain +independence, even when meat and eggs are prohibitive in price, +since by canning or drying, if in no other way, we can have green +vegetables as a source of iron the whole year through. Some people +are afraid that canned vegetables will prove unwholesome; but if +removed from the can as soon as opened and heated to boiling before +they are eaten, we are recently assured that the danger of food +poisoning will be materially lessened. Even when such vegetables +are wanted for salads, boiling and subsequent cooling are advised. +The mineral salts of vegetables dissolve into the water in which +they stand, and in any shortage of such food, or for the greatest +economy, it would seem wise to save the water in the can, which is +often thrown away to secure a more delicate flavor. Water from the +cooking of fresh vegetables which are not protected by skins (among +them spinach, peas, carrots, and asparagus), can often be reduced +to a small amount by steaming instead of boiling the vegetable, or +any drained off can be used in gravy, soup, sauce, or some similar +fashion. The strong flavor of some vegetables, however, makes such +economy rather impractical.</p> +<p>Some people discriminate against canned and dried vegetables +because they do not taste like fresh ones. This seems rather +unreasonable, as we want a variety of flavors in our diet and might +welcome the change which comes from this way of treating food as +well as that which comes from different methods of cooking. Nobody +expects a stew to taste like a roast, and yet both may be good and +we would not want either one all the time. Instead of regretting +that canned peas do not taste like those fresh from the garden +(incomparable ones!) let us be glad that they taste as good as they +do. Would we like them any better if they tasted like cornmeal +mush?</p> +<p>While a potato has about as much phosphorus as an egg yolk, +substitutes for it in this respect are not hard to find. Five +tablespoonfuls of milk or half an ounce of cheese will easily +supply as much, while half a cup of cooked string beans will +provide all the iron as well as half the phosphorus in a potato, +and a teaspoon of butter or other fat added to the beans will make +them equal in fuel value. On the other hand, two small slices of +whole wheat bread would furnish all the phosphorus, half the iron, +and an equal amount of fuel.</p> +<p>The potato is conspicuously high in potassium, but it is not +likely that in any diet containing one kind of fruit and one kind +of vegetable each day there will be any permanent shortage of this +substance. Spinach, celery, parsnips, lettuce, cabbage, rutabagas, +beets, carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers, and turnips are all good +sources of potassium and some of them are available all the year +round without canning and drying.</p> +<p>But what significance has the “Anti-Scorbutic +Property”? Does that not make potatoes indispensable? Scurvy, +Madam, occurs whenever people live for a long time on a monotonous +diet without fresh food. The potato offers good protection against +this disease at a low cost, but other foods have long been known to +possess the same power, among them oranges, lemons, limes, and +other fruits, and cabbage and other green vegetables; in fact, a +mixed diet in which fruits and vegetables occur is assurance of +freedom from scurvy. Just how far the potato will go in providing +the specific vitamines essential for growth is still unsettled. It +undoubtedly contains one of them in goodly amount, but for the +present it is wise to include some green (leaf) vegetable in the +diet even when potatoes are plentiful, especially if butter, milk, +and eggs cannot be freely used.</p> +<p>Nutritionally then, we can find substitutes for the potato; +practically, too, we can find quite satisfactory alternatives for +it in our conventional bills of fare. On the face of things the +potato is a bland mealy food which blends well with the high flavor +and the firm texture of meat and the softness of many other cooked +vegetables. Gastronomically, rice or hominy comes about as near to +having the same qualities, with hot bread, macaroni, sweet +potatoes, and baked bananas (underripe so as not to be too juicy +and sweet) close rivals. These are not so easy to cook and serve as +the potato and are not likely to supplant it when it is plentiful. +It might be worth while, however, to substitute these for potatoes +rather often. The latter will be appreciated all the more if not +served every day in the week, or at least not more than once a day. +We might extend the fashion of baked beans and brown bread to roast +pork with rice, ham with baked bananas, roast beef with hominy, and +broiled steak with macaroni. Why not? You, Madam Housewife, are +always sighing for variety, but does it never occur to you that the +greatest secret of variety lies in new combinations?</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_5" name="Ch_5">CHAPTER V</a></h2> +<h3>ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES?</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>In the house of diet fruits and vegetables may be likened to +windows and doors, fire-places and chimneys; we could dispense with +them, we could board up our windows and make a fire on a big stone +in the middle of the room, letting the smoke escape through a hole +in the roof, but such a course would not mean comfort year in and +year out. So we may exist without fruits and vegetables, but it is +worth while to stop and consider what we gain by their use.</p> +<p>We shall have to admit at the outset that if we have to spend +money or labor for them, fruits and vegetables are not the cheapest +source of fuel for the human machine. Some of them are cheaper fuel +than butter, eggs, or meat, but not as cheap as cereals, sugar, +molasses, syrups, and some of our cheapest fats. This is true of +potatoes, parsnips, carrots, dried peas and beans, and such fruits +as bananas, prunes, raisins, dates, figs, and possibly a few other +dried fruits, but we cannot justify our investment in most fruits +and vegetables solely on the plea that they are +“filling” in the sense of being of high fuel value; on +this ground lettuce, celery, cabbage, tomatoes, lemons, rhubarb, +cranberries, and many others would find no place in our domestic +economy.</p> +<p>Remembering that man does not live by fuel alone, we may find +ample reasons for spending some of our food money upon things which +at first thought seem to give an inadequate return. There is an old +adage, “An apple a day keeps the doctor away,” which if +true means that the apple is a real economy, a kind of health +insurance, for an apple costs seldom over five cents—often +only one—and a doctor’s visit may easily cost a hundred +times as much. There is a certain amount of truth in the saying, +though the apple does not have a monopoly of the supposed virtue. +It is more accurate, if less poetic, to say that an +<em>assortment</em> of fruits and vegetables helps to keep us in +good health. Before the days of modern “cold pack” +canning, mothers used to assemble their little home groups in the +spring and, in spite of sundry hidings under tables on the part of +reluctant Johnnies and Susies, dutifully portion out herb tea or +sulphur in molasses. Spring cleaning could never stop short of +“cleansing the blood!” And after a monotonous winter of +salt pork and fried potatoes no doubt heroic measures were +necessary to make up for an ill-chosen diet. Nowadays we recognize +no such seasonal need. We carry our surplus of fruits and +vegetables over from summer to winter and profit not only in the +greater daily pleasure of our tables but in clearer skins, brighter +eyes, and less “spring fever.”</p> +<p>How do fruits and vegetables help to keep us well? In the first +place, by their wholesome effect upon the bowels. As a rule we +associate regular daily movements with health, but do not always +recognize the part which diet plays in securing them. If we eat +little besides meat and potatoes, bread, butter, and cake or pie, +we are very likely to have constipation. This is particularly true +for those who work indoors or sit much of the time. Now, fruits and +vegetables have several properties which help to make them +laxative. Many have considerable woody fiber. In celery and +asparagus we find it in actual “strings”; in cabbage, +spinach, lettuce, and other stem or leaf vegetables it may not be +so noticeable, but it is certainly present and we should realize +that it is useful. The skins of fruit are of this nature and may +often be eaten, as in case of prunes, figs, apples, dried peaches +and apricots. The outer coats of grains, which serve the same +purpose, are frequently removed by milling, but similar coats of +peas and beans are not so removed except in the case of dried split +peas. In the juices of fruits and vegetables we find a variety of +laxative substances. This explains why apple juice (sweet cider), +orange juice or diluted lemon juice may be a very desirable morning +drink. The effect is partly due to the acid but not wholly. Juices +which are not acid to the taste, as those of prunes, figs, onions, +have laxative properties. So from a great variety of fruits and +vegetables, especially those which are fibrous or acid or both, we +may obtain the substitute for “pills” in wholesome +foods which are generally cheaper than drugs.</p> +<p>No diet can be properly built without a suitable supply of +mineral salts. The free use of milk is our greatest safeguard +against lack of any save iron, but when milk is scarce and has to +be saved as now for the babies of the world, it is fortunate that +we can make fruits and vegetables take its place in part. Some of +our very common vegetables are good sources of the calcium (lime) +and phosphorus so freely supplied in milk. Among these may be taken +as an example the carrot, which has not had due recognition in many +quarters and in some is even spoken of contemptuously as +“cattle food.” Its cheapness comes from the fact that +it is easy to grow and easy to keep through the winter and should +not blind us to its merits. A good-sized carrot (weight one-fourth +pound) will have only about half the fuel value of a medium-sized +potato, but nearly ten times as much calcium as the potato and +about one-third more phosphorus. While actual figures show that +other vegetables, especially parsnips, turnips, celery, +cauliflower, and lettuce, are richer in calcium than the carrot, +its cheapness and fuel value make it worthy of emphasis. Everyone +who has a garden should devote some space to this pretty and +palatable vegetable. It is perhaps at its best when steamed till +soft without salting and then cut up into a nicely seasoned white +sauce; its sweetness will not then be destroyed nor its salts lost +in the cooking water. It is not only useful as a hot vegetable, but +in salads, in the form of a toothsome marmalade, and as the +foundation of a steamed pudding. For little children it is most +wholesome and they should make its acquaintance by the time they +are a year and a half old, in the form of a cream soup. A dish of +carrots and peas (one-half cup peas, one-fourth cup carrot cubes, +one-half cup white sauce) will have almost the same food values +(for fuel, calcium, phosphorus, and iron) as an equivalent serving +of oatmeal, milk, and sugar (three-fourths cup cooked oatmeal, +one-half cup milk, one rounding teaspoon sugar) and will add +variety to the diet without costing a great deal more unless one +pays a fancy price for peas.</p> +<p>Even when meat and eggs are not prohibitive in price, fruit and +green vegetables are an important source of iron in the diet. And +when war conditions make the free consumption of meat unpatriotic, +it is reassuring to think that we really can get along without meat +very well if we know how. Two ounces of lean beef will furnish no +more iron than a quarter of a cup of cooked spinach or half a cup +of cooked string beans or dried beans, or one-sixth of a cup of +raisins, or half a dozen good-sized prunes. Cabbage, peas, lettuce, +dandelion greens, beet tops, turnip tops and other +“greens” are well worth including in our bill of fare +for their iron alone. By the time children are a year old we begin +to introduce special iron-bearing foods into their diet to +supplement milk. Aside from egg yolk, we give preference for this +purpose to green vegetable juice or pulp, especially from peas and +spinach or a mixture of both. The substantial character of dry +beans is too well known to require comment, but how many realize +that they are a most valuable source of iron and other mineral +salts? The fact that they are not a “complete diet” in +themselves should not disturb anyone who realizes that all diets +are built from a variety of foods. We are hardly likely to use +beans to the exclusion of everything else except in dire necessity, +and then what better could we do than use freely a food which will +go so far toward sustaining life at so small a cost?</p> +<p>There is a further significance for fruits and vegetables in +their contribution to the diet of the growth-promoting, +health-protecting vitamines. That the presence of fruits and +vegetables in the diet is a safeguard against scurvy is well known, +though the full scientific explanation is not yet ours. That the +leaf vegetables (spinach, lettuce, cabbage, and the like) contain +both the vitamines which are essential to growth in the young and +to the maintenance of health in the adult seems assured, and gives +us further justification for emphasis on green vegetables in the +diet of little children, when properly administered—i.e., +always cooked, put through a fine sieve, and fed in small +quantities.</p> +<p>Aside from being valuable for regulation of the bowels, for +mineral salts, and vitamines, to say nothing of more or less fuel +value, fruits and vegetables give zest to the diet. The pleasant +acidity of many fruits, their delicate aroma, their beautiful form +and coloring, the ease of preparing them for the table, are +qualities for which we may legitimately prize them, though we may +not spend money for them until actual nutritive requirements are +met. Dr. Simon Patten, in his <em>New Basis for Civilisation</em>, +ably expresses the value of appetizers: “Tomatoes, the +hothouse delicacy of the Civil War time, are doing now what many a +bloody revolution failed to accomplish; they have relieved the +monotony of the salt pork and boiled potatoes upon the poor +man’s table. The clear acid flavor of the canned vegetable +lightens ugly heaviness and adds tonic gratifications for the lack +of which men have let each other’s blood.”</p> +<p>As already remarked, those who have plenty of highly flavored +meat are apt to be satisfied by it or to demand stronger flavors +(coffee, catsup, pickles, and tobacco) than those found in fruits +and vegetables. They are also apt to spend so much money on meat +that they have none left to buy what seem to them unimportant items +in the diet, and to have a much less wholesome diet than they might +have for the same money. Studies of expenditures in many families +show that a good rule to insure a well balanced diet is to spend no +more money for meat than one does for fruit and vegetables. Also, +it is well to remember that vegetables are usually cheaper than +fruits and that dried ones may largely take the place of canned or +fresh ones. For wholesome and economical living, have fruit of some +kind at least once a day and make the main dish of one meal a +vegetable dish whenever possible. Thick cream soups, souffles, +creamed or scalloped vegetables, are all substantial and +appetizing. The way to learn to like such foods is to keep trying. +One may learn contentment with the proverbial dinner of herbs more +easily by realizing that one is building valuable bricks into the +house of diet; and in the present emergency one may, by selection +of fruits and vegetables of high energy value, save less perishable +foods for our soldiers and allies. The knowledge that a banana is +equivalent in calories to a large slice of bread or a small pat of +butter becomes tremendously significant; that an apple, an orange, +four prunes, four dates, or a cup of peas, may not only take the +place of bread but actually add something which the bread does not +contain, means that we may be the gainers from our own sacrifices, +without embarrassment thereat. We shall have reaped a speedy reward +for doing our duty.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_6" name="Ch_6">CHAPTER VI</a></h2> +<h3>FATS AND VITAMINES</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>In the days of the ancient Romans vegetable oils were prized for +food and butter was used for cosmetics. In America today we are +asking what is to become of us if we cannot have butter to eat! +Such are the fashions in food. “June butter” is one of +our gastronomic traditions. The sample in the restaurant may have +none of the firm creamy texture and delicate aromatic flavor of the +product of the old spring house; but as long as it is labeled +butter we try to bring our sensations into line with our +imaginations. For the real butter flavor there is no more a +substitute than there is for the aroma of coffee. But these are +matters of esthetic pleasure rather than of nutrition. They depend +largely upon habit. Whale blubber and seal oil are as much +appreciated in some quarters as butter is by us. An American going +inland from the Atlantic coast is often surprised to find that +olive oil, instead, of being served on every table, is exceedingly +disliked.</p> +<p>For the sustenance of the body we must recognize that fat is +fat, whatever its flavor. A calorie from butter yields neither more +nor less energy than a calorie from lard or bacon, olive oil or +cottonseed oil. The common food fats are all very well digested if +judiciously used—not in too large quantities, nor over-heated +in cooking, and not “cooked into” things too much as in +pastries, rich sauces, and fried foods. Whether we spread our bread +with butter or beef drippings amounts to the same thing in the long +run; the main point is which we are willing to eat.</p> +<p>A change is rapidly coming over our food habits. The price of +butter has been soaring beyond our reach, and the market for +“butterine,” “nut margarine,” +“oleomargarine,” or whatever the substitute table fat +may be called, has expanded tremendously. It is excellent household +economy to buy milk and a butter substitute rather than cream or +butter. In these substitutes refined vegetable oils such as +cottonseed, cocoanut, and peanut, and oils derived from beef or +lard are so combined or treated as to produce the desired hardness, +and churned with milk or milk and butter to improve texture and +flavor. Lard substitutes are similarly made from one or more of +these fats, but are harder in texture and no attempt is made to +give them a butter flavor by churning with milk. All the fats used +are wholesome and efficient sources of energy for the human +machine.</p> +<p>In the absence of butter some other form of fat is desirable in +the diet, because fat is so concentrated a food. There is a limit +to the capacity of the human stomach to hold food. People who live +on a diet largely of rice, which has almost no fat in its make-up, +develop characteristically distended abdomens, because they have to +eat such a great quantity of food to get fuel enough for their +day’s work. When people are for any reason put on a milk diet +for a considerable time it is customary to put something into the +milk to make it more concentrated, for otherwise they would drink +and drink and then hardly get fuel enough. To give a concrete +illustration—a man’s energy requirement for a day may +be met by from four to five quarts of milk (unless he is doing very +heavy manual labor), but it would be much more practical to +substitute a loaf of bread, which is comparatively dry, for one +quart of milk, and three ounces of fat (six tablespoonfuls) for +another quart of milk, making the total volume but little over half +what it would be if four quarts of milk were taken. For people who +are engaged in hard physical toil, fat is exceedingly important for +this purpose of gaining in concentration. “Fat is fuel for +fighters,” and it is perfectly reasonable to ask those who +are not doing much heavy labor to eat other kinds of food and save +fat for those who simply have to have it to do their work well. In +the ordinary mixed diet one can easily dispense with an ounce of +fat (two tablespoonfuls). Each tablespoonful is equalled in energy +by an apple, or a banana, a large egg, two half-inch slices of +bread about three inches square, four dates, four prunes—and +it is no great strain on one’s capacity for food to +substitute such items for the fat.</p> +<p>On account of its concentration, fat is good for transportation; +and aside from its energy value it gives the diet +“staying” qualities. Other things being equal, one +feels hungry sooner after a meal without fat than after one in +which it is liberally supplied. People doing manual labor, and +especially out of doors, feel the pangs of hunger more than +sedentary folks and hence need more fat to keep them comfortable. +No man can do his best work when all the time thinking how hungry +he is. It behooves us all then, as good citizens, to recognize the +greater need of our soldiers and sailors and our hard-working +laborers for as liberal allowances of fat as we can make. At the +same time, we cannot for our own best health dispense with fat +altogether. We may consider anything up to two ounces apiece a day +legitimate for our own maintenance of efficiency.</p> +<p>In departing from food customs there is a natural timidity lest +the new food shall in some way be less healthful than the old. +Recent scientific researches have revealed a hitherto unsuspected +property in butter, a discovery which has aroused some concern as +to whether we can safely substitute other fats for it. Young +animals fed on a diet of highly purified food materials in which +lard is the only kind of fat may seem fairly well but do not grow +normally, while those fed the same diet in every respect except +that the lard is replaced by butter grow as young animals should +and are more resistant to disease. Study of other food fats shows +that they may be divided into two groups, one with this growth +promoting property and one without it. In general, the vegetable +oils do not have it, while butter and beef oil do; on the other +hand, lard does not have it, while the oil from corn does. Careful +analysis of the situation has shown that a fat-soluble vitamine is +present which can in the laboratory be separated from the fat. This +same vitamine is present in a variety of food materials—in +whole milk, in egg yolks, in leaves of plants—but we have not +studied it long enough to know just how much spinach we can +substitute for a tablespoonful of butter so far as the vitamine is +concerned. We must await further investigations. But we may rest +assured that with a fairly liberal amount of milk and some green +vegetables, possibly some beef fat, we need not fear any disastrous +consequences from the substitution of some other fat for butter. +Where the diet is limited and the entire quantity of fat is not +very large, it seems prudent to select oleomargarine made largely +from beef oil and, where circumstances permit its use without the +sacrifice of any other dietary essential, to use butter in the diet +of growing children unless they get a full quart of milk apiece a +day.</p> +<p>Changing our food customs is difficult because it means also +changing our cooking customs. But many dishes can be made with less +fat than we are accustomed to put in or with different kinds from +those we have hitherto preferred. Often the fat from frying is left +in the pan to be washed out and thrown away. If every cook could +say to herself, “Every two drops of fat make a calorie and +every calorie counts in the world today,” it might seem more +worth while to hold the pan a minute and drain out the fat for +further use. A thousand calories mean a day’s life to a baby. +It is always more wholesome to cook foods so that they are not +coated with fat, and one may get brown products in a frying pan +without more than a thin film of fat to keep the food from +sticking. It is well to remember in this connection that the +unsalted lard substitutes are more satisfactory than the saltier +fat foods, in which there may be a trace of milk.</p> +<p>The thought that fat is fuel wherever we find it in food will +stiffen our resolution to take a little pains with the fats which +we have been wont to discard. Anyone can get from the Department of +Agriculture suggestions for the practical use of chicken, mutton, +beef, and other kinds of meat fats. The main points are to free +them from flavor, by melting them with milk or water, possibly +using some special absorbent like potato or charcoal too, and then +mixing hard and soft together, just as the oleomargarine-makers do, +to get such a degree of hardness as suits one’s purpose. All +this requires time and thought. Let no one dream that the patriotic +duties of the kitchen are trivial. Anything that is worth while +costs something; money, thought, labor—perhaps all three. To +salvage kitchen fat may not be economical in time and labor (though +it generally is more so than one might think), but there is more +time and labor than food available today. So it seems the +“bit” of the housekeeper to set a standard for her +family as to the amount of fat she will purchase per week, which is +at least one-fourth lower than their ordinary consumption, and to +depend upon special conservation of what may have gone to waste +hitherto for any increase in this allowance.</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_7" name="Ch_7">CHAPTER VII</a></h2> +<h3>“SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE”</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>“Do come and taste how nice the burnt pig eats!” So +cried the miscreant son of Hati when his attempt to rescue his +father’s live-stock from utter destruction resulted (at least +according to Lamb) in adding one more delicacy to the table of +civilized man. That the “burnt pig” commended itself +instantly to the taste of other men is attested by the recklessness +with which they ignited their own houses to secure the new +sensation again.</p> +<p>Not all flavors make an immediate appeal. Many persons can mark +the time when they learned to like olives, or tomatoes, or tea. The +taste for some foods was acquired so early that there is no +consciousness of any time when they were not enjoyed, and the +impression prevails that the liking for such foods is instinctive. +Sometimes that is the case, but quite as often not. Children have +to be taught by patient repetition to like most of the common foods +which make the staples of the diet, and likings thus acquired are +as strong as those which seem more natural.</p> +<p>However taste be accounted for, we have to recognize the fact +that food is chosen for flavor more than for ultimate benefit. It +is one thing to say that oatmeal is more nutritious than bread and +coffee; it is quite another to induce a man to give up the latter +for the former! And yet the distinguishing characteristic of man is +that he can subjugate his immediate impulses for his future +benefit, or find a course that will harmonize the two—take +coffee with his oatmeal for instance, or find some way to flavor +it, perhaps with sugar.</p> +<p>Probably no one flavor is so universally enjoyed as sweetness. +“Sweeter than the honey in the honey comb” is an +ancient symbol of appreciation. When the sugar bowl is empty how +many things lose zest! Tea, coffee, cocoa, breakfast cereals, +fruit, might still be acceptable, but cake, pie, and ice cream are +unthinkable without sweetness; the soda fountain, the bakery, and +the candy shop bear further testimony to our love of sweets. Four +million tons of sugar a year for the American +people—eighty-five pounds apiece, nearly a quarter of a pound +apiece daily—this is no inconsiderable amount of +flavoring!</p> +<p>But is not sugar good food? Most assuredly. Three lumps of sugar +would furnish the extra energy needed to walk a mile; a quarter of +a pound represents about one-sixth of a man’s daily fuel +requirement. But one baked potato would furnish the same energy as +the three lumps of sugar; a quarter of a pound of cornstarch would +supply the same fuel as the quarter pound of sugar. Nutritionally +starch and sugar are interchangeable, the advantage as far as +digestion is concerned being with the starch rather than the sugar. +And yet we put sugar on starch! So much for instinct being a guide +to scientific food combinations!</p> +<p>The problem of doing without sugar is primarily a problem of +flavor—a problem of finding something else which is sweet. +Hence we turn our cornstarch into glucose (make corn syrup, for +example) outside the body instead of inside it, so that we can +taste the sweetness as it goes down. The main trouble with this +kind of sugar is that it is not sweet enough to satisfy us and we +are apt to use too much, thus endangering our digestions by sheer +concentration of what would be, in smaller quantities, most +wholesome. Once more we see that nutrition is largely a question of +<em>how much</em>; how much glucose or other sugar our stomachs can +stand we find out by experience; few stomachs can stand when empty +the quantity represented by a lollipop, and yet we frequently see +children allowed to suck these between meals. The same amount of +sugar diluted with water, as in a glass of lemonade, would do less +harm; it might be combined with flour in a cooky with more +impunity; better yet, it might be made a part of a whole meal, +taking it in several dishes (sauce, dessert, etc.), or, if we must +have it as candy, at the end of the meal. Used in this way, the +advantages of sugar as a food may be had with relatively little +disadvantage.</p> +<p>Honey, “the distilled sweetness of the flower,” +commands a price commensurate with the exquisiteness of its +production, but is not quite as easy of digestion as some other +forms of sugar. Because of its intense sweetness it may be combined +with advantage with less sweet syrups, such as corn syrup. The cook +estimates that by measure it will take one and a half times as much +corn syrup as cane sugar to get the customary effects in sweet +dishes. By using one part of honey to three of corn syrup a sweeter +product is obtained, which is free from several of the +disadvantages of honey in cookery.</p> +<p>Maple syrup and sugar are not only prized for their sweetness, +due to the presence of ordinary cane sugar, but for the delicate +“maple” flavor so difficult to duplicate. Nutritionally +a tablespoon of maple sugar is equivalent in fuel value to about +four-fifths of a tablespoon of cane sugar, while equal volumes of +cane molasses, corn syrup, and maple syrup are interchangeable as +fuel, though not of equal sweetening power.</p> +<p>Molasses is a less one-sided food than cane sugar or corn syrup. +The latter furnish nothing but fuel, and if used too freely not +only disturb digestion but tend to crowd out foods which yield +mineral salts. Molasses is quite rich in calcium, one tablespoonful +yielding as much as five ounces of milk, and is for this reason a +better sweet for growing children than ordinary sugar or corn syrup +when the amount of milk which they can have is limited, or when +fruits and vegetables are hard to get. Molasses ginger snaps make, +therefore, an excellent sweet for children, much better than candy, +but of course to be eaten only at meal time.</p> +<p>The aim of good home cooking should be to please the family with +what they ought to eat. The chef in a big hotel may have to prove +the superiority of his art over that of a rival chef, and vie with +him in novelty and elaboration, but the home cooking may be ever so +simple provided the result is a happy, well-nourished family. A +chocolate layer cake that takes two hours out of a day is no more +nourishing than the same materials served as poached eggs, bread +and butter, and a cup of chocolate. It is worth while to train a +family to enjoy the flavor of simply prepared foods, and to realize +that the food is the thing which counts and not the way it is +dressed up. On the other hand, if one has to use a few food +materials over and over, as one must in many places when the money +that can be spent for food is very little, it is by slight changes +in their form and flavor that one keeps them from palling on the +appetite. If one has to use beans every day, it is a good thing to +know a dozen different ways of preparing beans. One may have the +plain bean flavor, properly toned up by a suitable amount of salt; +the added flavor of onions, of tomatoes, of fat pork, of molasses, +or a combination of two or three. One may have plain oatmeal for +breakfast (the flavor developed by thorough cooking, at least three +or four hours in a double boiler or over night in a fireless +cooker); oatmeal flavored with apples in a pudding for dinner; or +oatmeal flavored with onions and tomatoes in a soup for supper; the +same food but quite different impressions on the palate.</p> +<p>Herbs and spices have from time immemorial given flavor to +man’s diet. “Leeks and garlic,” “anise and +cumin,” “salt and pepper,” “curry and bean +cheese,” are built into the very life of a people. The more +variety of natural foods we have the less dependent we are upon +such things. Our modern cooks, confronted in the present crisis +with restrictions in the number of foods which they may use, may +find in bay leaves, nutmeg, allspice, and all their kind, ways of +making acceptable the cereals which make a diet economical, the +peas and beans which replace at least a part of the meat, and dried +fruits and vegetables which save transportation of fresh or canned +goods.</p> +<p>Tea and coffee are both flavors and stimulants. They are used +literally by thousands to give flavor to bread or rice. Dependence +on a single flavor is apt to result in a desire to have it stronger +and stronger, and hence less and less wholesome. This is a good +reason for some variety of flavor; better tea one meal and coffee +another than the same one all the time. Too freely used, and made +too strong, tea and coffee may have a bad effect upon the nervous +as well as the digestive system. They should never be given to +children. It is better for adults to get their flavor from +something without such effects. Because the combination of bread +and coffee tastes good, one may be deceived into thinking himself +well nourished on a diet consisting of little else. And yet this is +a very inadequate diet for anybody, and disastrous to the normal +development of children. One must be on guard, then, lest +one’s desire for flavor be satisfied without the body’s +real needs being met.</p> +<p>The wise cook saves her best flavors for the foods which would +be least acceptable without them and does not add them to foods +which are good enough by themselves. The latter course marks the +insidious beginning of luxury. “Once give your family +luxuries and you are lost as far as satisfying them economically is +concerned,” remarked a clever housewife. “Even a rat +will not taste bread when bacon is nigh,” observed a sage +physiologist. The demand for flavor grows and grows with pampering, +till nothing but humming-birds’ tongues and miniature geese +floating in a sea of aspic jelly will satisfy the palate of him who +eats solely for flavor—who never knows the sauce of hunger, +or the deliciousness of a plain crust of bread. We must be on +guard, saying, like the little daughter of a classical professor, +“If Scylla doesn’t get me Charybdis will.” Flavor +we must have, but not too much, not too many kinds at once, and not +applied indiscriminately to foods which need them and foods which +do not. The wise cook uses her arts to secure the proper +nourishment of the family and not for her fame as “a good +cook.”</p> +<hr /> +<h2><a id="Ch_8" name="Ch_8">CHAPTER VIII</a></h2> +<h3>ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>Who does not sigh for the fairy table that comes at the pressing +of a button? It is invariably laden with the most tempting viands, +satisfies beyond words, and disappears when the meal is over, +leaving behind no problem of leftovers or planning for the next +meal! No money, no work, no thought, only sheer enjoyment. Alas, +how different is the world of fact! Even if we have plenty of money +we cannot escape from the thought of food today. There is +imperative need for saving of food materials; at best there will +not be enough to go around, and all the world, ourselves included, +will suffer in proportion as we neglect the duty of food +conservation. To be economical in the use of food materials +according to the program of the Food Administration may, probably +will, demand the spending of more money, time, and thought upon +food. If we have the money and time to spend, well and good; but if +we have not, how shall we do our share in sending more +“wheat, meat, sugar and fats to our soldiers, sailors and +allies”?</p> +<p>Thousands of people had to practice strict economy before the +war began. They have no more money than they had then and the cost +of food has increased. Certainly the first duty of everyone is to +secure sufficient nourishment to avoid the undermining of health +and strength which is sure to follow inadequate food. But we must +all remember that it is possible to make a great many changes in +diet without altering food value, and that there are few diets +which cannot be so rearranged as to give a better nutritive return +on the money spent than is usually secured by our haphazard methods +of planning meals. Saving of waste is commendable and will go a +long way, but this is a kind of passive service; loyal citizens +ought to be active participants in the food conservation movement, +which is a movement to distribute food in the way which shall +promote the efficiency of our allies and ourselves in this world +upheaval. To do this without increasing the cost of one’s +diet requires a careful study of the situation. No one can give +precise rules as to how it shall be done, but perhaps a few +suggestions as to the underlying principles will help in +determining a dietary plan which shall be economical and still in +line with the general policy.</p> +<p>The same nutritive essentials must be supplied whether the cost +of the diet be much or little. A moderately active man needs some +3,000 calories per day whether his activity be playing golf or +working on a farm; whether his board bill be $3.00 a day or $3.00 a +week. In both cases there must be suitable kinds and amounts of +protein-bearing food, of other “building materials,” +and those substances which directly or indirectly affect the smooth +running of the body machinery; nevertheless, these two diets, +closely alike in nutritive value, may be very dissimilar in their +superficial appearance. For instance, all the nutritive +requirements may be met in a ration composed of three food +materials, as milk, whole wheat bread, and apples; on the other +hand, by one composed of canvas-back duck, truffles, lettuce, +celery, cranberries, white bread and butter, cream, coffee, and +perhaps a dozen other items. We love all the various sensations +that come from the mingling in a meal of food hot and cold, moist +and dry, crisp and soft, sweet and sour, exhibiting the artistic +touch as well as the homelier virtues; it is the sacrifice of +pleasure of the esthetic sort that food economy and to some extent +food conservation entail.</p> +<p>The first step in food economy (aside from saving of waste) is +to emphasize the use of cereal foods. As much as one-fourth the +food money may be invested in grain products without nutritive +disadvantage. But this is not the last word on the subject, since +cereal foods, while cheap, differ among themselves in cost and +somewhat in nutritive value. It is possible to confine one’s +choice to some which contribute little besides fuel to the diet, +such as rice and white flour, or to include those which are rich in +other essentials, such as oatmeal. It is difficult to express +briefly this difference in foods in any concrete fashion, but +recently a method of grading or “scoring” foods has +been introduced which may help to make clearer the relationship +between nutritive value and general economy.</p> +<p>We cannot live exclusively upon foods which furnish nothing but +fuel, though fuel is the largest item in the diet and one which in +an effort to economize is apt to fall short; hence a food which +furnishes nothing but fuel will not have as high a +“score” as a food which will at the same time supply +certain amounts of other essentials, such as protein, calcium +(lime), iron, and the like. By giving definite values to each of +the dietary essentials taken into consideration and comparing the +yield of these from different foods, we may have such a score as +follows:<sup>1</sup><span class="sidenote">1. For the method of +calculation and further data see "The Adequacy and Economy of Some +City Dietaries" by H.C. Sherman and L.H. Gillett, published by The +New York Association for Improving the Condition of the Poor, 105 +East Twenty-second Street, New York City, from which these figures +are taken.</span></p> +<table summary="cereal food values" style= +"width:60%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;">Grain products</td> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;text-align:right;" width= +"50%">Score value per pound</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>White flour</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,257</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Graham flour</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">2,150</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Rye flour</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,459</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>White bread</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,060</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Graham bread</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,525</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Cornmeal</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,360</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Oatmeal</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">2,465</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Cream of wheat</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,370</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hominy</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,147</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Corn flakes</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,090</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>By comparing the score with the price per pound we can easily +see which contributes most to the diet as a whole for the money +expended. Thus, if hominy and oatmeal cost the same, the oatmeal is +more than twice as cheap because we not only get a little more fuel +from it but we also get protein, calcium, iron, and phosphorus in +considerably larger amounts; that is, we shall need less of other +foods with oatmeal than we shall with hominy. This does not mean +that hominy is not an excellent and a cheap food, but it does mean +that when the strictest economy must be practiced it pays to buy +oatmeal. The task of the housewife is to find out how much she can +make acceptable to her family; how much she can serve as breakfast +food, how much in muffins and bread, how much in soups and +puddings. This economy is strictly in harmony with the principles +of food conservation—saving of wheat, so hard to do without +entirely, so easy to dispense with in part.</p> +<p>Cornmeal gives as good a nutritive return per pound as cream of +wheat, so that as long as the price of cornmeal is not higher than +that of the wheat product it is both good economy and good +patriotism to use it as far as one can. And, even if cornmeal +should be dearer than wheat, one can save money by increasing the +proportion of cereals in the diet so as to be able to be patriotic +without increasing the food bill.</p> +<p>A second measure which generally makes for food economy is to +emphasize the use of dried fruits and vegetables. The score of some +of these foods almost speaks for itself:</p> +<table summary="fruit and vegetable food values" style= +"width:60%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;">Dried fruits and +vegetables</td> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;text-align:right;" width= +"50%">Score value per pound</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beans</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">3,350</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Peas</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">2,960</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Apples</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">955</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Dates</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,240</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Figs</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,782</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Prunes</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,135</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Raisins</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,550</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" style="text-decoration:underline;">Fresh fruits and +vegetables</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beans</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">472</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Peas</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">475</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Apples</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">156</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Bananas</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">236</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Oranges</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">228</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Peaches</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">138</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Pears</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">228</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>From the foregoing it is evident that, unless the cost of a +pound of fresh apples is less than one-fifth that of dried ones, +the dried will be cheaper; that if dates and raisins cost the same +per pound they are equally economical to buy. It may be noted, too, +that the return on a pound of dried fruit may be quite as good in +its way as the return on a pound of a grain product, but they will +be equally cheap only when they cost the same per pound in the +market. Here, again, there is no incompatibility between economy +and conservation of special foods. Even in the case of beans is +this true, for, while certain kinds are wanted for the army and +navy, there are dozens of kinds of beans; one may count it as part +of one’s service to find out where these can be obtained, how +they are best cooked and served. Soy beans commend themselves for +their nutritive value, but how many American housewives have made +them a part of their food program? How many have tried to buy them +or asked their dealers to secure them?</p> +<p>A third step in the program of economy is the reduction of the +amount of meat consumed. In many American families at least +one-third the food money is spent for meat. That there are adequate +substitutes which may be used to reduce the amount of meat bought +has been already shown. Saving of meat is one of the most important +planks in the food conservation program; so here again there is no +inevitable conflict between conservation and economy. Some meat is +desirable for flavor if it can possibly be afforded, but no +economically inclined person should set aside more than one-fourth +to one-fifth of the food money for it. How much one will get +depends upon the kind and cut selected. There is not so much +difference in the nutritive value as there is in the cost, as the +following examples of “meat scores” will show:</p> +<table summary="meat and fish food values" style= +"width:60%;margin:auto;font-size:0.9em;"> +<tr> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;">Meat and fish</td> +<td style="text-decoration:underline;text-align:right;" width= +"50%">Score value per pound</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beef, lean round</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,664</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beef, medium fat rump</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,221</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Beef, porterhouse steak</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,609</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Veal, lean leg</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,539</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Lamb, medium fat leg</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,320</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Fowl</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,453</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Codfish, salt</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,710</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Codfish, fresh<sup>2</sup><span class="sidenote">2. The low +score of fresh cod is due chiefly to the absence of fat and the +presence of water.</span></td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">519</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Salmon, canned</td> +<td style="text-align:right;font-family:monospace;">1,074</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The great value of milk in the diet has already been discussed. +The “score” of milk is about the same as that for sugar +(milk, 761; sugar, 725); hence, if sugar is ten cents a pound and +milk eighteen-cents a quart (about nine cents per pound), milk is +cheaper than sugar. Yet there are people cutting down their milk +supply when the cost is only thirteen or fourteen cents per quart +on the ground that milk is too expensive! The economical housewife +should have no compunctions in spending from one-fifth to +one-fourth of her food money for this almost indispensable food. +Whether the free use of milk will be good food conservation as well +as good economy depends upon the supply. If there is not enough to +go around, babies and the poor should have the first claim upon it +and the rest of the world should try to get along with something +less economical.</p> +<p>A pound of eggs (eight or nine eggs) gives about the same +nutritive return as a pound of medium fat beef, but to be as cheap +as beef at thirty cents a pound, eggs must not cost over forty-five +cents a dozen. Eggs must be counted among the expensive foods, to +be used very sparingly indeed in the economical diet. Nevertheless +the use of eggs as a means of saving meat is a rational food +conservation movement, to be encouraged where means permit.</p> +<p>The saving of sugar, while a necessary conservation measure, is +contrary to general food economy, since sugar is a comparatively +cheap fuel food and has the great additional value of popularity. +Sugar substitutes are not all as cheap as sugar by any means, but +molasses, on account of its large amount of mineral salts, +especially of calcium, has a score value of 2,315 as against 725 +for granulated sugar, and may be regarded with favor by those both +economically and patriotically inclined.</p> +<p>In the case of fats, practical economy consists in paying for +fuel value and not for flavor. The score values for butter, lard, +olive oil, and cottonseed oil are about the same. The cheapest fat +is the one whose face value per pound (or market cost) is the +lowest. Fats are not as cheap as milk and cereals if they cost over +ten cents per pound. The best way to economize is by saving the fat +bought with meat, using other fats without much flavor, and cutting +the total fat in the diet to a very small amount, not over two +ounces per person per day. This is also good food conservation, +since fats are almost invaluable in rationing an army, and those +with decidedly agreeable flavor are needed to make a limited diet +palatable.</p> +<p>No program either of economy or food conservation can cater to +individual likes and dislikes in the same way that an unrestricted +choice of food can. If one does not like cereals it is hard to +consume them just to save money, especially to the extent of ten to +fifteen ounces of grain products in a day. Yet one might as well +recognize that in this direction the lowering of the cost of the +diet inevitably lies. If one does not like corn, it is hard to +substitute corn bread for wheat bread. But one might as well open +one’s mind to the fact that the only way to put off the day +when there will be no white bread to eat is to begin eating +cornmeal now. Most of us want to eat our cake and keep it +too—to enjoy our food and not pay for our pleasure; to do our +duty towards our country and not feel any personal inconvenience. +But the magic table of the fairy tale is not for a nation at war; +food is not going to come at the pressing of a button during this +conflict. If we are to escape bankruptcy and win the war we must +eat to be nourished and not to be entertained.</p> +<hr class="full" /> +<h2><a id="Appx" name="Appx">APPENDIX</a></h2> +<h3>SOME WAR TIME RECIPES</h3> +<p class="returnTOC"><a href="#Contents">Return to Table of +Contents</a></p> +<p>The following recipes illustrate some of the practical +applications of the principles discussed in the foregoing pages. +They have been selected from various publications, a list of which +is given below. The numbers following the titles of the recipes +correspond with the numbers of the publications in this list.</p> +<ol> +<li>Canned Salmon: Cheaper than Meats and Why, U.S. Department of +Commerce, Bureau of Fisheries, Economic Circular No. 11</li> +<li>Cheese and its Economical Use in the Home, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers’ Bulletin No. 487</li> +<li>Economical Diet and Cookery in Time of Emergency, Teachers +College, Columbia University, Technical Education Bulletin No. 30 +4. Food, Bulletin of the Life Extension Institute, 25 West 45th +Street, New York City</li> +<li>Honey and its Uses in the Home, U. S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers’ Bulletin No. 653</li> +<li>How to Select Food: Foods Rich in Protein, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers’ Bulletin No. 824</li> +<li>Meat Substitutes, Connecticut Agricultural College, Emergency +Food Series, No. 10</li> +<li>Ninety Tested, Palatable and Economic Recipes, Teachers +College, Columbia University, Technical Educational Bulletin No. +34</li> +<li>Recipes of New York City Food Aid Committee, 280 Madison +Avenue, New York City</li> +<li>Recipes in The Farmer’s Wife, St. Paul, Minnesota, +September, 1917</li> +<li>Some Sugar Saving Sweets for Every Day, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Teachers College Record, November, 1917</li> +<li>War Economy in Food, Bulletin of the United States Food +Administration</li> +<li>Waste of Meat in the Home, Cornell Reading Course for the Farm +Home, Lesson 109</li> +</ol> +<hr class="short" /> +<h3>BREAD AND MUFFINS</h3> +<h4>Corn Meal and Wheat Bread (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Wheat flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Corn syrup, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Cold water, 1¼ cups</li> +<li>Lukewarm water, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Yeast, 1 cake</li> +</ul> +<p>Pour cold water gradually over corn meal and salt. Cook over +water for 20 minutes. Add fat and syrup. Allow to cool to room +temperature. Add yeast which has been softened in the lukewarm +water. Add flour gradually, stirring or kneading thoroughly after +each addition of flour. Knead lightly for 10 or 15 minutes. Shape +into a loaf. Let rise until double in bulk. Bake in a moderate oven +(360-380°) for about an hour. (The amount of corn meal may be +reduced if one desires a loaf with the characteristics of wheat +bread.)</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corn Meal and Rye Bread (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Lukewarm water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Yeast, 1 cake</li> +<li>Salt, ½ tablespoon</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Rye flour, 1 cup</li> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 3 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Soften yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix +thoroughly. Let rise, shape, let rise again and bake.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Sour Milk Corn Bread (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 1 pint</li> +<li>Soda, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Baking powder, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Sour milk, 1 pint</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Lard (melted), 1 ½ tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Slightly beat the egg, add milk, salt, and soda. Stir in the +meal. Beat well. Add melted lard and baking powder. Bake in hot +greased pan. Cut in squares and serve. Do not have batter too +stiff.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Eggless Corn Muffins (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Pastry flour (sifted), ½ cup</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Melted butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix dry ingredients and add milk and melted butter. Put in +greased muffin pan and bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oat Bread (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Boiling water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ½ tablespoon</li> +<li>½ yeast cake, dissolved in ½ cup lukewarm +water</li> +<li>Rolled oats (dry), 1 cup</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Flour, 4½ cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Add boiling water to the rolled oats, stir well and let stand +for one hour. Add molasses, salt, fat, dissolved yeast cake, and +flour; let the dough rise to double its bulk, beat well, and turn +into greased bread pans, let rise the second time, and bake about +one hour in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oatmeal Muffins (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cooked oatmeal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Baking powder, 4 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Melted butterine, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the egg +well beaten and one-half the milk. Mix the remainder of the milk +with the cereal, and beat in thoroughly. Then add the butter. Bake +in buttered muffin or gem tins about 30 minutes in a moderate +oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>War Time Boston Brown Bread</h4> +<ul> +<li>Rye meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Finely ground oatmeal, 1 cup</li> +<li>Milk, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Soda, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Molasses, 1 cup</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until +well mixed, turn into a well-greased mold, and steam three and +one-half hours. The cover should be greased before being placed on +mold. The mold should never be filled more than two-thirds full. A +one-pound baking powder box makes the most attractive shaped loaf +for steaming; place mold on a trivet in kettle containing boiling +water, allowing water to come half-way up around mold; cover +closely and steam, adding as needed more boiling water. One cup +chopped peanuts and 1 cup of cut dates may be added.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rice Bread (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Sugar, 6 tablespoons</li> +<li>Fat, 4 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Compressed yeast, ½ cake, softened in ¼ cup +liquid</li> +<li>Boiled rice, 7 cups</li> +<li>Flour, 8 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>This proportion makes two loaves of bread.</p> +<p>Scald the milk with sugar, salt, and fat. Let cool until +lukewarm and pour over the boiled rice. Add yeast which has been +softened in one-quarter cupful warm water. Stir in flour and knead. +Let rise until double its bulk. Knead again and put into pans. Let +rise until light and bake 50 minutes to one hour in a moderate +oven.</p> +<p><em>The rice should be boiled in a large quantity of boiling +water</em>, in order to insure a dry rice. At least eight or ten +times as much water as rice should be used.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Eggless Rye Muffins (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Rye flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Baking powder, 4 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Sugar, 4 teaspoons</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Melted butter or other fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift the dry ingredients; add the milk and melted fat. +Mix quickly, do not beat. Bake in greased muffin pans 20 minutes in +a hot oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rye Corn Meal Muffins (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, ½ cup</li> +<li>Rye flour, 1 cup</li> +<li>Baking powder, 3 teaspoons</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Melted butter, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Milk, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix and sift dry ingredients, beat egg, add to it milk and +molasses, then stir liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Do not +beat. Place in well-greased muffin tins and bake in moderate oven +25 to 30 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rye Rolls (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Water, 1 cup</li> +<li>Fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Yeast cakes, 2</li> +<li>Water, 6 tablespoons</li> +<li>Rye flour, 4 cups</li> +<li>White flour, 4 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Scald the milk with the salt, sugar, and fat. Soften the yeast +in the six tablespoonfuls of water.</p> +<p>Cool the milk by adding the rest of the water cold, stir in the +yeast and flour, and knead. Let rise until double in bulk. Knead +again and shape into rolls. Let rise until very light and bake.</p> +<hr /> +<h3>CAKE AND COOKIES</h3> +<h4>Apple Sauce Cake (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Sugar, 1 cup</li> +<li>Butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Apple sauce, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Raisins, ⅔ cup</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the soda, spices, salt, and flour. Cream the +butter, add sugar, apple sauce, dry ingredients, and seeded +raisins. Bake in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Buckwheat Cookies (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Butterine, ½ cup</li> +<li>Sugar, 1 cup</li> +<li>Eggs, 2</li> +<li>Clove, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Buckwheat, 1 ¾ cups</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Beat the eggs, add the sugar and melted butter, and beat until +thoroughly mixed. Sift the buckwheat, spices, and salt together and +add very slowly. Mix well; roll on a floured board one-eighth to +one-sixteenth inch thick. Cut the cookies and bake on a greased +baking sheet in a moderate oven about 10 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Honey Bran Cookies (5)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Bran, 3 cups</li> +<li>Sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Soda, ¼ to ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Honey, ½ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Melted butter, ½ cup</li> +</ul> +<!-- Transcriber's note: there are no instructions with this ingredient list. --> +<h4>Soft Honey Cake (5)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Butter, ½ cup</li> +<li>Honey, 1 cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Sour milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Flour, 4 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Rub the butter and honey together; add the egg well beaten, then +the sour milk and the flour sifted with the soda and spices. Bake +in a shallow pan.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Molasses Cakes (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Fat, ½ cup</li> +<li>Molasses, 1 cup</li> +<li>Ginger, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Flour, 2 ½ cups</li> +<li>Soda, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Hot water, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the salt, sugar, flour, soda, and spices. Melt +butter in hot water, add molasses, egg well beaten, and dry +ingredients. Mix well. Bake in small cup cake tins in a moderate +oven for about 25 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Molasses Cookies (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Flour, 2¾ cups</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Molasses, 1 cup</li> +<li>Hot water, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, ¼ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the flour, salt, soda, and ginger. Melt fat; add +hot water and molasses; stir this liquid gradually into the dry +ingredients. Chill. Roll on floured board to one-eighth inch +thickness. Cut. Bake about 10 minutes in a moderate oven +(360-380° F.).</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Nut Molasses Bars (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Oleomargarine, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Boiling water, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Brown sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Soda, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Flour, 3⅔ cups</li> +<li>Ginger, ⅓ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cocoanut, ½ cup</li> +<li>English walnuts, ½ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Pour boiling water over fat; add sugar and molasses; add flour, +soda, spices, and salt sifted together. Chill. Roll one-eighth inch +thick. Cut in strips about three and a half by one inch. Sprinkle +with cocoanut and English walnuts cut in small pieces.</p> +<p>Bake about 10 minutes in a moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oatmeal Cookies (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Water, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Flour, 2 cups</li> +<li>Fine oatmeal, ½ cup</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Raisins, 1 cup</li> +<li>Melted fat, 5 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the +oatmeal. Beat the egg add sugar, water, and milk, dry ingredients +mixed together, raisins, and melted fat. Drop from spoon on greased +baking sheet and bake in moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Oatmeal Macaroons (12)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Corn syrup, 3/8 cup</li> +<li>Sugar, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Almond extract if desired, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Oatmeal, 1 ½ cups</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Baking powder, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Flour, 1½ tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Combine the melted fat and sugar and syrup, add the beaten egg +and stir in the other ingredients. Drop from a teaspoon on greased +baking sheets or pans and bake in a moderate oven about 15 +minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Potato Drop Cookies (13)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hot mashed potatoes, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Sugar, 1¼ cups</li> +<li>Beef or mutton fat, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, 1¾ cups</li> +<li>Baking powder, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Cinnamon, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Raisins, chopped, ½ cup</li> +<li>Nuts, chopped, ¼ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Combine the ingredients in the order given and drop the mixture +by spoonfuls on a slightly greased tin. Bake the cookies in a +moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Spice Cake (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, 3½ tablespoons</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Corn syrup, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Flour, 1 cup (plus 1½ tablespoons)</li> +<li>Baking powder, 1¼ teaspoons</li> +<li>Chopped citron, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Raisins, cut in half, ½ cup</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Clove, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Cream fat; add sugar gradually, syrup, egg well beaten; mix and +sift dry ingredients; add alternately with milk to first mixture. +Add raisins (which have been rolled in a little of the flour), +mixing them through the cake thoroughly.</p> +<p>Bake about 30 minutes in a moderate oven (about 380° +F.).</p> +<hr /> +<h3>JAMS AND SANDWICH FILLINGS</h3> +<h4>Banana and Nut Paste for Sandwiches (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Banana, 1</li> +<li>Shelled peanuts, ¼ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the banana with the shelled peanuts, which have been +crushed. Salt to taste. Use as a filling for sandwiches.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Carrot Marmalade (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Carrots, 3 pounds</li> +<li>Sugar, 3 pounds</li> +<li>Lemon, 1 (juice and grated rind)</li> +<li>Oranges, 2 (juice and grated rind)</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash, scrape, and steam carrots until soft; chop fine and mix +with fruit and sugar. Cook gently one hour.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Date and Cranberry Marmalade (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cranberries, 1 quart</li> +<li>Dates, stoned, 1 pound</li> +<li>Water, 1 pint</li> +<li>Brown sugar, 2 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Simmer together for 20 minutes cranberries, dates, and water; +put through a sieve; add sugar and cook 15 minutes longer.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Dried Apricot Conserve (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Dried apricots, ½ pound (1⅔ cups)</li> +<li>Cold water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Raisins, 1 cup</li> +<li>Juice of 1 lemon</li> +<li>Whole orange, 1</li> +<li>Nuts, ½ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak apricots over night in cold water. When soaked add raisins, +lemon juice, orange sliced very thin, with slices cut in small +pieces, and corn syrup. Bring to boiling point and simmer for about +one and one-quarter hours. Add nuts 15 minutes before taking from +fire.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Fruit and Peanut Butter (for Sandwiches) (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Dates, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Figs, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Peanut butter, ½ cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Lemon juice, 1½ tablespoons</li> +<li>Raisins, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash figs, raisins, and dates, and put through food chopper. Add +salt, peanut butter, lemon juice, and corn syrup, and mix well.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Plum Conserve (without sugar) (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Pitted plums, 1 pound (2 dozen plums)</li> +<li>Raisins, ⅓ pound</li> +<li>Cold water, ½ cup</li> +<li>Walnuts, 1/8 pound (¼ cup)</li> +<li>Oranges, 2</li> +<li>Corn syrup, ⅓ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash and cut plums in pieces: add chopped raisins, orange pulp +and peel, cut very fine; corn syrup and water; boil until it is of +the consistency of marmalade (about one and one-half hours of slow +cooking). Add walnuts five minutes before removing from fire.</p> +<hr /> +<h3>SUBSTANTIAL HOT DISHES</h3> +<h4>Baked Barley (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Barley, ½ cup</li> +<li>Boiling water, 3 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Left over gravy, ¾ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak barley over night. Drain. Cook in boiling salted water +until tender. Drain. Add left over gravy and bake for 20 minutes in +a moderate oven. If one has a meat bone, or left over bits of meat, +these may be boiled with the barley to give it flavor.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Beef and Bean Stew (6)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Beef, lower round, 1 pound</li> +<li>Red kidney beans, 1 cup</li> +<li>Onion, 1</li> +<li>Canned tomatoes, 1 cup, or 2 or 3 fresh tomatoes</li> +<li>Salt pork, 2 ounces</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash the beans and soak them over night. Cut the pork into small +pieces and try out the fat. Cut the beef into small pieces and +brown it in the pork fat, then add the vegetables with water enough +to cover. Cook just below the boiling point for about three +hours.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cheese Fondue (2)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk (hot), 1⅓ cups</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 1⅓ cups</li> +<li>Butter, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Eggs, 4</li> +<li>Cheese, ⅓ pound (1⅓ cups grated or 1 cup cut in +pieces)</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the water, bread crumbs, salt, and cheese; add the yolks +thoroughly beaten; into this mixture cut and fold the whites of +eggs beaten until stiff. Pour into a buttered dish and cook 30 +minutes in a moderate oven. Serve at once.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corned Beef Hash with Vegetables (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corned beef (cold, left over), 1½ cups</li> +<li>Dice potatoes (cooked), 2¼ cups</li> +<li>Turnips (cooked), 1 cup</li> +<li>Onion, chopped fine, 1 small</li> +<li>Carrots (cooked), ½ cup</li> +<li>Water, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut the meat into small pieces. Add cooked vegetables cut into +small cubes, onion and water. Put fat into hot frying pan, add hash +and cook for about 20 minutes, allowing the hash to brown. Other +left over meat may be added to corned beef, or used instead of +corned beef.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corn Meal Scrapple (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Shin of beef, 2 pounds</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Onion, 1 medium</li> +<li>Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cold water, 2 quarts</li> +<li>Corn meal, 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Cook onion thinly sliced in beef marrow or suet. Add to water +with meat and bone and cook until meat is tender. Let cool, skim +off fat, and remove bone. To liquid remaining, add enough water to +make one quart. Add corn meal and salt and cook one hour. Turn into +a mold, cool, cut in slices, and fry in pork fat until brown. Serve +with or without gravy.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Corn Chowder (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn, ¼ can</li> +<li>Salt pork, 1½ inch cube</li> +<li>Potato cut in slices, 1 medium</li> +<li>Milk, 2 cups</li> +<li>Boiling water, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Sliced onion, 1/8</li> +<li>Sugar, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt and pepper</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. Add the onion and +cook for about five minutes. Strain the fat into a stew pan. Cook +the potatoes for about five minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, +and add the potatoes to the fat. Add the boiling water and cook +until the potatoes are soft. Then add corn and milk and heat to the +boiling point. Add the salt, pepper, sugar, and butter. Serve +immediately after adding butter.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cottage Cheese and Nut Loaf (12)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cottage cheese, 1 cup</li> +<li>Nut meats (use those locally grown), 1 cup</li> +<li>Stale bread crumbs, 1 cup</li> +<li>Juice of ½ lemon</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Chopped onion, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Oleomargarine, meat drippings or vegetable oils, 1 +tablespoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the cheese, ground nuts, crumbs, lemon juice, salt, and +pepper. Cook the onion in the fat and a little water until tender. +Add to the first mixture the onion and sufficient water or meat +stock to moisten. Mix well, pour into a baking dish, and brown in +the oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Dried Fish Chowder (7)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Salt fish, ½ pound</li> +<li>Potatoes, cut in small pieces, 4 cups</li> +<li>Salt pork, 2 ounces</li> +<li>Small onion, chopped, 1</li> +<li>Skim milk, 4 cups</li> +<li>Crackers, 4 ounces</li> +</ul> +<p>Salt codfish, smoked halibut, or other dried fish may be used in +this chowder. Pick over and shred the fish, holding it under +lukewarm water. Let it soak while the other ingredients of the dish +are being prepared. Cut the pork into small pieces and fry it with +the onion until both are a delicate brown; add the potatoes, cover +with water, and cook until the potatoes are soft. Add the milk and +fish and reheat. Salt, if necessary. It is well to allow the +crackers to soak in the milk while the potatoes are being cooked, +then remove them, and finally add to the chowder just before +serving.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Gevech (Roumanian Recipe) (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Shredded cabbage, 1¼ cups</li> +<li>Chopped onion, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Rice, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Diced potatoes, ¾ cup</li> +<li>½ green pepper cut into strips</li> +<li>Fish, ¾ pound</li> +<li>Canned tomato, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Water, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Parboil cabbage, onion, rice, potatoes, and green pepper +together in salted water for 20 minutes. Drain. Clean fish, cut +into small pieces, and mix with parboiled vegetables, canned +tomatoes, water, and seasonings. Bake in a moderate oven for about +40 minutes. Baste occasionally while cooking. Serve with a garnish +of sliced lemon.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Kidney Bean Stew (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Kidney beans, 1 cup</li> +<li>Onion, 1 small</li> +<li>Rice, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Canned tomatoes, 2 cups</li> +<li>Fat or drippings, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Flour, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt and pepper to taste</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak beans over night in cold water to cover. In the morning +place beans over fire, adding water to cover if necessary. Add +onion, rice and tomatoes and cook slowly until beans are soft. If +too thick, add water. Mix flour and fat, and use to thicken +stew.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Baked Oatmeal with Cheese (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cooked oatmeal, 4 cups</li> +<li>Grated cheese, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt and pepper</li> +<li>Soft bread crumbs, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 1 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Put into an oiled baking dish a layer of left over oatmeal, then +a sprinkling of grated cheese, pepper and salt, another layer of +oatmeal, then cheese and seasonings; continue until the dish is +full. Melt the fat and mix with this the bread crumbs. Sprinkle +over the top of the dish. Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs +are golden brown.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Green Pea Loaf with White Sauce (9)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Dried green peas, 1 cup</li> +<li>Cold water, 4 cups</li> +<li>Boiling water, 2 quarts</li> +<li>Soft, stale bread crumbs, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Milk, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Grated onion, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak peas in cold water over night. Cook in boiling water until +soft. Rub through a sieve. To one cup of this pea pulp add bread +crumbs, milk, seasoning, egg (slightly beaten), and melted fat. +Turn mixture into a small, oiled bread pan. Set pan into a second +pan, containing water. Bake mixture 40 minutes or until firm. +Remove loaf from pan. Serve with white sauce. One-half cup of +cheese may be added to one and one-half cups of the sauce.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Mock Sausage (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Lima beans, dried, ½ cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, ⅓ cup</li> +<li>Butter, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Pepper, few grains</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Sage, ½ to ¾ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Pick over and wash beans, cover with water, and let soak over +night. Drain; cook in boiling salted water until tender, about one +and one-half hours. Force through a strainer, add remaining +ingredients. Shape into form of sausages, roll in crumbs, egg, and +crumbs again. Sauté in fat until brown. It requires about +two-thirds cup crumbs and one-half egg for dipping sausage. May be +garnished with fried apples.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Baked Soy or Togo Beans (6)</h4> +<p>Soy beans, known in the retail market as togo beans, resemble +navy beans in some ways. They contain, however, a considerable +amount of fat. For this reason neither pork nor other fat is used +in cooking them unless it is wanted for flavor. They are +considerably richer in protein also.</p> +<p>Wash and pick over one quart of soy beans. Cover with boiling +water, boil for 10 minutes, and soak over night in the same water. +In the morning pour off and save the water. Pour cold water over +the beans and rub them between the hands to remove the skins, which +will float off in the water. Removing the skins in this way takes +only two or three minutes and greatly improves the quality of the +dish. If a few skins are left on, they will do no harm, unless the +dish is being prepared for a person of poor digestion. Drain the +beans, pour over them the water in which they were soaked, and cook +until tender at a temperature just below the boiling point. Pour +off the water, put the beans into a bean pot, cover with cold +water, add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of salt, and bake four +or five hours in a covered dish. Remove the cover and bake one hour +more.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Loaf (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Chopped peanuts, 1 cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 2 cups</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Paprika, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Melted fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix dry ingredients, add beaten egg and milk. Put into a greased +pan, pour the melted fat on top, bake. Turn on a hot platter and +serve with sauce.</p> +<h4>Sauce for Loaf</h4> +<ul> +<li>Hot water, 1 cup</li> +<li>Beef cube, 1</li> +<li>Juice 1 lemon</li> +<li>Fat, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Flour, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, 1/8 teaspoon</li> +<li>Few grains nutmeg</li> +</ul> +<p>Melt fat, add flour with seasoning, add hot water in which beef +cube has been dissolved. Just before serving add lemon juice.</p> +<p>This nut loaf with its accompanying sauce is a highly nutritious +dish and is excellent for lunch or supper. Serve no meat or +potatoes with it.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Butter Bean Loaf (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Peanut butter, ½ cup</li> +<li>Cooked beans, 1 cup</li> +<li>Soft bread crumbs (toasted), 1 cup</li> +<li>Milk, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Pepper, ½ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>The beans should be soaked over night and cooked in fresh water +until tender. Press through a sieve, add other ingredients, mix +well. Shape into a loaf, place in pan, and bake about two hours, +basting with melted fat and hot water.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Butter Cream Soup (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, 1 quart</li> +<li>Onion (grated), 1 small</li> +<li>Flour, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Melted fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Peanut butter, 1 cup</li> +<li>Bay leaf, 1</li> +<li>Celery (chopped) 3 stalks</li> +<li>Celery salt, 1 saltspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>A little white pepper</li> +<li>Dash of paprika</li> +</ul> +<p>Heat milk in a double boiler, add peanut butter, onion, bay +leaf, chopped celery, and other seasoning. While the milk is +heating, melt fat in a separate sauce pan, stirring in flour as for +cream sauce. When smooth add the hot milk, after straining through +a sieve. Serve at once with croutons or tiny squares of bread +browned till crisp.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Fondue (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Peanuts, shelled, 1 cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs (soft), 1 cup</li> +<li>Milk, 1⅔ cups</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Salt, 1½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Cayenne</li> +</ul> +<p>Grind peanuts in a meat grinder. Mix all ingredients except the +white of the egg. Beat the egg white stiff and fold in. Turn into a +buttered pudding dish and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 35 +minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Peanut Soup (10)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Blanched shelled peanuts, 2 cups</li> +<li>Onion, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Celery, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Carrot, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Water, 2½ cups</li> +<li>Fat, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Flour, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Paprika, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Milk, 2 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Chop and crush the nuts until very fine; add the vegetables and +water; simmer 20 minutes. Make a white sauce of the other +ingredients, mix the two mixtures thoroughly and serve.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Potato Soup with Carrots (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Potatoes, 3 medium</li> +<li>Water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Flour, 4 tablespoons</li> +<li>Soup greens</li> +<li>Onion, 2 slices</li> +<li>Sprigs of parsley</li> +<li>Milk, 1½ cups</li> +<li>Carrot, 1</li> +<li>Fat, 1½ tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt and pepper</li> +<li>Stalk of celery</li> +</ul> +<p>Wash and pare potatoes. Cook in boiling salted water until they +are soft. Rub through colander. Use water in which potatoes were +cooked to make up the two cups of water for the soup. Cook carrot +cut in cubes in boiling water until soft; drain. Scald milk with +onion, celery, and parsley. Add milk and water to potatoes. Melt +fat in sauce pan, add flour, and cook for three minutes. Slowly add +soup, stirring constantly. Boil for one minute, season with salt +and pepper. Add cubes of carrots and serve.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Salmon en Casserole (1)</h4> +<p>Cook one cup of rice. When cold line baking dish. Take one can +of salmon and flake. Beat two eggs, one-third cup of milk, one +tablespoon of butter, pinch of salt, dash of paprika. Stir into the +salmon lightly, cover lightly with rice. Steam one hour, serve with +white sauce. (This may also be made with barley instead of +rice.)</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Scalloped Salmon (1)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Salmon, 1 can</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Milk, 1 pint</li> +<li>Flour, 2 rounding tablespoons</li> +<li>Butter, 1½ tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Put the milk on stove in double boiler, keeping out one-half +cup. Mix butter and flour to a smooth paste, and add the egg well +beaten, then the one-half cup of cold milk. Mix well and then stir +into the milk, which should be scalding. Stir until smooth and +thick like gravy. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to +cool. Butter a baking dish and fill with alternate layers of flaked +salmon and the cream dressing. The top layer should be of the +dressing. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and bake one-half hour in +moderate oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Salmon Loaf (1)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Salmon, 1 small can</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Cracker crumbs, 1 cup</li> +<li>Sweet milk, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Paprika</li> +<li>Nutmeg</li> +<li>Salt</li> +</ul> +<p>Remove bones from salmon; break into small pieces, add well +beaten egg, seasoning, and cracker crumbs; bake in a well buttered +dish for 15 minutes; serve hot for lunch.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Tamale Pie (12)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, 2 cups</li> +<li>Salt, 2 ½ teaspoons</li> +<li>Boiling water, 6 cups</li> +<li>Onion, 1</li> +<li>Fat, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Hamburger steak, 1 pound</li> +<li>Tomatoes, 2 cups</li> +<li>Cayenne pepper, ½ teaspoon,<br /> +or</li> +<li>Chopped sweet pepper, 1 small</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Make a mush by stirring the corn meal and one and one-half +teaspoons salt into boiling water. Cook in a double boiler or over +water for 45 minutes. Brown the onion in the fat, add the Hamburger +steak, and stir until the red color disappears. Add the tomatoes, +pepper, and salt. Grease a baking-dish, put in a layer of corn meal +mush, add the seasoned meat, and cover with mush. Bake 30 minutes. +Serves six.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Turkish Pilaf (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Washed rice, 1 cup</li> +<li>Raw lean beef or lamb, 1 pound</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Boiling water, 2 cups</li> +<li>Small onion or garlic, 2 cloves</li> +<li>Tomatoes, 2 cups</li> +<li>Olive oil or any fat, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Fry onion cut in small pieces or the garlic in the fat until +slightly brown; add rice, seasonings, water, tomatoes, meat, and +cook in a covered dish until the rice is soft. The meat may be +omitted, the rice cooked in the tomatoes and water, and the whole +covered with grated cheese and baked until cheese is melted.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Vegetable Stew</h4> +<ul> +<li>Beef, ½ pound</li> +<li>Mutton, ½ pound</li> +<li>Carrots, diced, ½ cup</li> +<li>Potatoes, diced, 2 cups</li> +<li>Tomatoes, canned, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Fat, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Carrot, 1 whole</li> +<li>Onion, sliced, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Cabbage, chopped, 1 cup</li> +<li>Flour, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Bay leaf, ½ leaf</li> +<li>Cloves, 6</li> +<li>Peppercorns, 6</li> +<li>Parsley, chopped, 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Salt, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Thyme, 1 sprig</li> +<li>Water, 7 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut meat in small pieces, brown with onion in fat, add water, +one carrot in which cloves have been imbedded, and other +vegetables. Tie bay leaf, thyme, and peppercorns together in a +piece of cheesecloth and cook with stew about two hours (till +vegetables are done). Remove bag of seasonings, thicken stew with +flour. Add more salt if needed.</p> +<hr /> +<h3>PUDDINGS</h3> +<h4>Apricot Tapioca Pudding (4)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Apricots, 6</li> +<li>Sugar, ½ cup</li> +<li>Pearl tapioca, 1 cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Boiling water, 3 cups</li> +</ul> +<p>Cover the tapioca with cold water and soak for one hour. Drain +off the cold water, add the boiling water and salt, and cook over +water (in a double boiler if you have one) until the tapioca is +transparent, and no hard center portion remains. This will require +about 30 minutes. Place the apricots in a buttered baking dish. Add +sugar to the tapioca, pour this over the apricots, add apricot +juice, and bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Cool and +serve. If dried apricots are to be used, they should be soaked over +night or several hours in cold water sufficient to cover them. Cook +in the water in which they have soaked until they are tender.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cereal Pudding (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Left over cereal, 3½ cups</li> +<li>Apple sauce, ½ cup<br /> +or</li> +<li>Apple, 1</li> +<li>Sugar, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Butter, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Put a layer of cereal in the bottom of a buttered baking dish, +then a layer of apples or sauce, then sugar if the sauce has not +been sweetened. Then put in another layer of cereal, cover with +buttered crumbs. Bake 30 minutes if it has apple sauce in it, one +hour if raw apples are used. Serve with cream.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Cereal Date Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cereal (half corn meal and half farina), ¾ cup</li> +<li>Boiling water, 3 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ¾ teaspoon</li> +<li>Chopped dates, 1 cup</li> +<li>Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), ½ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +</ul> +<p>Stir the cereal mixture gradually into the boiling water, to +which the salt has been added. Cook directly over the flame for +about five minutes, stirring constantly, and then cook over water +for one and one-half hours. Add oleomargarine, syrup, egg, well +beaten, and chopped dates. Turn into a greased baking dish and bake +for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven (360-390° F.).</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Chocolate Bread Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Bread, broken in small pieces, 2 ½ cups</li> +<li>Corn syrup (dark), ½ cup</li> +<li>Brown sugar, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Egg, 1</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Chocolate, 2 squares</li> +<li>Milk, 1 ½ cups</li> +<li>Hot water, 1 ½ cups</li> +<li>Vanilla, ¾ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak bread in milk; add syrup, brown sugar, egg, well beaten, +and salt. Melt chocolate in water; add gradually to bread mixture. +Add vanilla. Bake in custard cups, set in hot water, in a moderate +oven.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Eggless Steamed Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Flour, 1⅔ cups</li> +<li>Soda, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Allspice, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Hardened vegetable fat, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Raisins (seeded and cut in pieces), 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift together the flour, soda, salt, and spices; add the +raisins. To milk add molasses and melted fat; add liquid mixture +gradually to dry ingredients. Stir thoroughly. Turn into greased +molds, filling them a little over half full; cover and steam for +about two and one-half hours. Serve with pudding sauce or milk. +(Baking powder cans are satisfactory molds for steamed +puddings.)</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Honey Pudding (5)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Honey, ½ cup</li> +<li>Bread crumbs, 6 ounces</li> +<li>Milk, ½ cup</li> +<li>Rind of half a lemon</li> +<li>Ginger, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Eggs, 2</li> +<li>Butter, 2 tablespoons</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix the honey and the bread crumbs and add the milk, seasonings, +and yolks of the eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly and then add the +butter and the whites of the eggs well beaten. Steam for about two +hours in a pudding mold which is not more than three-quarters +full.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Indian Pudding (3)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Milk, 1 quart</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Corn meal, ⅓ cup</li> +<li>Ginger, 2 teaspoons</li> +<li>Salt, 1 teaspoon</li> +<li>Cold milk, 1 cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Pour milk, scalded, over meal, and cook 20 minutes; add salt, +ginger, and molasses. Cook slowly in a buttered baking dish two +hours. When half done, add the cold milk and finish cooking.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Baked Indian and Apple Pudding (8)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Corn meal, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, 2 cups</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Ginger, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Molasses, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Apple, 1</li> +</ul> +<p>Sift corn meal slowly into the scalded milk, stirring +constantly. Cook in double boiler 30 minutes, stirring +occasionally. Add salt, ginger, and molasses. Put into greased +baking dish and bake one hour in a slow oven, stirring +occasionally. Slice apple and stir into pudding. Bake until apple +is tender.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Prune Brown Betty (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Cooked prunes, stoned and cut into halves, 2½ cups</li> +<li>Bread crumbs (dry), ½ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (dark), ¼ cup</li> +<li>Lemon juice, 3 tablespoons</li> +<li>Grated rind of ¼ lemon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon</li> +<li>Prune juice, ½ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix together heated prune juice, fat, salt, corn syrup, lemon +juice, lemon rind, and cinnamon. Moisten bread crumbs with part of +this mixture. Into a greased baking dish put alternate layers of +bread crumbs and prunes, pouring part of liquid mixture over each +layer of prunes. Bake in a moderate oven about 45 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Rice Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Rice, ¼ cup</li> +<li>Milk, ¾ cup</li> +<li>Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Raisins, ¾ cup</li> +</ul> +<p>Cook the rice in boiling salted water, until soft. Pour off +water, add milk, syrup, nutmeg, and raisins. Bake in a moderate +oven (370-380° F.) for 40 minutes.</p> +<hr class="short" /> +<h4>Spiced Pudding (11)</h4> +<ul> +<li>Browned crusts of bread, 1 cup</li> +<li>Scalded milk, 2 cups</li> +<li>Molasses, ½ cup</li> +<li>Raisins, ½ cup</li> +<li>Salt, ½ teaspoon</li> +<li>Nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon</li> +<li>Cloves, ¼ teaspoon</li> +</ul> +<p>Soak the crusts in the milk until soft. Add molasses, salt, +spices, and raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380° F.), +stirring occasionally at first. Serve with milk or cream.</p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>The following pages contain advertisements of books by the same +author or on kindred subjects.</p> +<hr /> +<h2>FEEDING THE FAMILY</h2> +<h3>BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE</h3> +<p class="rgt"><em>Illustrated, $2.10</em></p> +<p>This is a clear and concise account in simple every-day terms of +the ways in which modern knowledge of the science of nutrition may +be applied in ordinary life. The food needs of the different +members of the typical family group—men, women, infants, +children of various ages—are discussed in separate chapters, +and many concrete illustrations in the form of food plans and +dietaries are included. The problems of the housewife in trying to +reconcile the needs of different ages and tastes at the same table +are also taken up, as are the cost of food and the construction of +menus. A final chapter deals with feeding the sick.</p> +<p>“The volume is so simply and entertainingly written that +it cannot but be enjoyed by anyone interested in the planning or +preparation of household meals, and it would be difficult to +imagine a more helpful book to put into the hands of a reader +desiring information along such lines.”—<em>Trained +Nurse</em>.</p> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> +<hr /> +<h2>A LABORATORY HAND-BOOK FOR DIETETICS</h2> +<h3>BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE, PH.D.</h3> +<h6>Assistant Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, +Columbia University</h6> +<p class="rgt"><em>Cloth, 8vo, $1.10</em></p> +<p>Investigations into the quantitative requirements of the human +body have progressed so far as to make dietetics to a certain +extent an exact science, and to emphasize the importance of a +quantitative study of food materials. This little book explains the +problems involved in the calculation of food values and food +requirements, and the construction of dietaries, and furnishes +reference tables which will minimize the labor involved in such +work without limiting dietary study to a few food materials.</p> +<p>Only brief statements of the conditions affecting food +requirements have been made, the reader being referred to general +textbooks on the subject of nutrition for fuller information, but +such data have been included as seem most useful in determining the +amount of food for any normal individual under varying conditions +of age and activity.</p> +<h5>TABLE OF CONTENTS</h5> +<ul> +<li>PART I +<ul> +<li>FOOD VALUES AND FOOD REQUIREMENTS +<ul> +<li>THE COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS.</li> +<li>THE FUNCTIONS OF FOOD. +<ul> +<li>Food as a Source of Energy.</li> +<li>Food as Building Material.</li> +<li>Food in the Regulation of Body Processes.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>FOOD REQUIREMENT. +<ul> +<li>The Energy Requirement of Normal Adults.</li> +<li>The Energy Requirement of Children.</li> +<li>The Energy Requirement of the Aged.</li> +<li>The Protein Requirement.</li> +<li>The Fat and Carbohydrate Requirement.</li> +<li>The Ash Requirement.</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>PART II +<ul> +<li>PROBLEMS IN DIETARY CALCULATIONS +<ul> +<li>Studies in Weight, Measure, and Cost of Some Common Food +Materials.</li> +<li>Relation between Percentage Composition and Weight.</li> +<li>Calculation of the Fuel Value of a Single Food Material.</li> +<li>Calculation of the Weight of a Standard or 100-Calorie +Portion.</li> +<li>Food Value of a Combination of Food Materials.</li> +<li>Distribution of Foodstuffs in a Standard Portion of a Single +Food Material.</li> +<li>Calculation of a Standard Portion of a Combination of Food +Materials.</li> +<li>Analysis of a Recipe.</li> +<li>Modification of Cow's Milk to a Required Formula.</li> +<li>Calculation of the Percentage Composition of a Food +Mixture.</li> +<li>The Calculation of a Complete Dietary.</li> +<li>Scoring of the Dietary.</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>REFERENCE TABLES +<ul> +<li>Refuse in Food Materials.</li> +<li>Conversion Tables—Grams to Ounces.</li> +<li>Conversion Tables—Ounces to Grams.</li> +<li>Conversion Tables—Pounds to Grams.</li> +<li>Food Values in Terms of Standard Units of Weight.</li> +<li>Ash Constituents in Percentages of the Edible Portion.</li> +<li>Ash Constituents in Standard or 100-Calorie Portions.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>APPENDIX +<ul> +<li>The Equipment of a Dietetics Laboratory.</li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> +<hr /> +<h2>THE FOOD PROBLEM</h2> +<h3>BY VERNON KELLOGG AND ALONZO E. TAYLOR. $1.25</h3> +<p class="quote">“Food is always more or less of a problem in +every phase of its production, handling and consumption. It is a +problem with every farmer, every transporter and seller, every +householder. It is a problem with every town, state and nation. And +now very conspicuously, it is a problem with three great groups, +namely the Allies, The Central Empires and The Neutrals; in a word +it is a great international problem.”</p> +<p>These sentences from the introduction indicate the scope of +<em>The Food Problem</em> by Vernon Kellogg and Alonzo E. +Taylor.</p> +<p>Both authors are members of the United States Food +Administration. Dr. Kellogg is also connected with the Commission +for relief in Belgium and professor in Stanford University. Mr. +Taylor is a member of the Exports Administrative Board and +professor in the University of Pennsylvania. The preface is by +Herbert Hoover, United States Food Administrator and Chairman for +the Commission of Relief in Belgium.</p> +<p>The food problem of today, of our nation, therefore, has as its +most conspicuous phase an international character. Some of the +questions which the book considers are:</p> +<p>What is the Problem in detail?</p> +<p>What are the general conditions of its solution?</p> +<p>What are the immediate and particulars which concern us, and are +within our power to affect?</p> +<p>And finally, what are we actually doing to meet our problem?</p> +<h5>TABLE OF CONTENTS</h5> +<ul> +<li>Introduction: The International Problem.</li> +<li><em>Part I. The Problem and the Solution</em>. +<ul> +<li>Chapter I. The Food Situation of the Western Allies and the +United States.</li> +<li>Chapter II. Food Administration.</li> +<li>Chapter III. How England, France and Italy are Controlling and +Saving Food.</li> +<li>Chapter IV. Food Control in Germany and Its Lessons.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li><em>Part II. The Technology of Food Use</em>. +<ul> +<li>Chapter V. The Physiology of Nutrition.</li> +<li>Chapter VI. The Sociology of Nutrition.</li> +<li>Chapter VII. The Sociology of Nutrition (Continued).</li> +<li>Chapter VIII. Grain and Alcohol.</li> +</ul> +</li> +<li>Conclusion: Patriotism and Food.</li> +</ul> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> +<hr /> +<h2>TWO TEXTBOOKS OF THE HOUSEHOLD ARTS</h2> +<h4>BY HELEN KINNE, <em>Professor</em>, AND ANNA M. COOLEY, +<em>Associate Professor of Household Arts Education, Teachers +College, Columbia University</em></h4> +<p class="rgt"><em>Cloth, 12mo, ill. $1.10</em></p> +<h3>FOODS AND HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT</h3> +<p>Treats specifically of foods, their production, sanitation, +cost, nutritive value, preparation, and serving, these topics being +closely interwoven with the practical aspects of household +management; and they are followed by a study of the household +budget and accounts, methods of buying, housewifery, and +laundering. It includes about 160 carefully selected and tested +recipes, together with a large number of cooking exercises of a +more experimental nature designed to develop initiative and +resourcefulness.</p> +<p>The book is new, practical, and economical. It is well +illustrated and attractively bound.</p> +<h3>SHELTER AND CLOTHING</h3> +<p>This book takes up fully, but with careful balance, every phase +of home-making: location, structure, plan, sanitation, heating, +lighting, decorating, and furnishing. The second part is devoted to +textiles, sewing, and dressmaking. Sewing, drafting, designing, +fitting, and cutting are treated in considerable detail as is also +the making of the personal budget for clothing.</p> +<p>The authors hold that harmony will be the keynote of the home in +proportion as the makers of the home regard the plan, the +sanitation, the decoration of the house itself, and as they +exercise economy and wisdom in the provision of clothing.</p> +<h4>THE MACMILLAN COMPANY</h4> +<h5>Publishers 64-66 Fifth +Avenue New York</h5> + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr class="full" /> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 14066-h.txt or 14066-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/0/6/14066">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/4/0/6/14066</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Everyday Foods in War Time + +Author: Mary Swartz Rose + +Release Date: November 17, 2004 [eBook #14066] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME*** + + +E-text prepared by Audrey Longhurst, Barbara Tozier, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME + +by + +MARY SWARTZ ROSE + +Assistant-Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia +University + +New York + +1918 + + + + + + + + The time has come, the Aggies said, + To talk of many things, + Of what to eat, of calories, + Of cabbages and kings, + Of vitamines and sausages, + And whether costs have wings. + + _Journal of Home Economics_, + November, 1917. + + + + +PREFACE + + + "FOOD IS FUEL FOR FIGHTERS. Do not waste it. Save WHEAT, MEAT, + SUGARS AND FATS. Send more to our Soldiers, Sailors and Allies." + + +The patriotic housewife finds her little domestic boat sailing in +uncharted waters. The above message of the Food Administration disturbs +her ordinary household routine, upsets her menus and puts her recipes out +of commission. It also renders inoperative some of her usual methods of +economy at a time when rising food prices make economy more imperative +than ever. To be patriotic and still live on one's income is a complex +problem. This little book was started in response to a request for "a war +message about food." It seemed to the author that a simple explanation of +the part which some of our common foods play in our diet might be both +helpful and reassuring. To change one's menu is often trying; to be +uncertain whether the substituted foods will preserve one's health and +strength makes adjustment doubly difficult. It is hoped that the brief +chapters which follow will make it easier to "save wheat, meat, sugars and +fats" and to make out an acceptable bill of fare without excessive cost. + +Thanks are due to the Webb Publishing Company, St. Paul, Minnesota, for +permission to reprint three of the chapters, which appeared originally in +_The Farmer's Wife_. + +TEACHERS COLLEGE, Columbia University, New York City. + +December 1, 1917. + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + CHAPTER + + I. THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME + + II. CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT + + III. THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE + + IV. THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES + + V. ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES? + + VI. FAT AND VITAMINES + + VII. "SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE" + + VIII. ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME + + APPENDIX--SOME WAR TIME RECIPES + + + + +EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE MILK PITCHER IN THE HOME + + (Reprinted from _The Farmer's Wife_, by permission of the Webb + Publishing Company.) + + +There is a quaint old fairy tale of a friendly pitcher that came and took +up its abode in the home of an aged couple, supplying them from its magic +depths with food and drink and many other comforts. Of this tale one is +reminded in considering the place of the milk pitcher in the home. How +many housewives recognize the bit of crockery sitting quietly on the shelf +as one of their very best friends? How many know that it will cover many +of their mistakes in the choice of food for their families? That it +contains mysterious substances upon which growth depends? That it stands +ready to save them both work and worry in regard to food? That it is +really the only indispensable article on the bill of fare? + +Diet is like a house, a definite thing, though built of different kinds of +material. For a house we need wall material, floor material, window, +ceiling, chimney stuffs and so forth. We may, if we like, make floors, +walls, and ceilings all of the same kind of stuff, wood for example, but +we should need glass for windows and bricks or tile for chimneys. Or, +again, we may choose brick for walls, floors, and chimneys but it would +not do any better than wood for windows, would be rather unsatisfactory +for ceilings, and impossible for doors. In other words, we could not build +a modern house from one kind of material only and we really need at least +four to carry out even a simple plan. + +In a similar fashion, diet is constructed from fuel material, +body-building material and body-regulating material. No diet is perfect in +which these are not all represented. Now, foods are like sections of +houses. Some correspond to single parts, as a floor or a window or perhaps +a chimney; others to a house complete except for windows and roof; still +others to a house lacking only a door or two. It takes some thought to put +them together so that we shall have all kinds of parts without a great +many extra ones of certain kinds and not enough of others. + +Milk is unique in that it comes nearest of all foods to being a complete +diet in itself. It is like the house with only a door missing. We could be +quite comfortable in such a house for a long time though we could make a +more complete diet by adding some graham bread or an apple or some +spinach. + +We all associate milk with cows and cows with farms, but how closely is +milk associated with the farm table? Is it prized as the most valuable +food which the farm produces? Every drop should be used as food; and this +applies to skim milk, sour milk, and buttermilk as well as sweet milk. Do +we all use milk to the best advantage in the diet? Here are a few points +which it is well to bear in mind: + +_Milk will take the place of meat._ The world is facing a meat famine. The +famine was on the way before the war began but it has approached with +tremendous speed this last year. Every cow killed and eaten means not only +so much less meat available but so much less of an adequate substitute. +Lean meat contributes to the diet chiefly protein and iron. We eat it +primarily for the protein. Hence in comparing meat and milk we think first +of their protein content. One and one-fourth cups of milk will supply as +much protein as two ounces of lean beef. The protein of milk is largely +the part which makes cottage cheese. So cottage cheese is a good meat +substitute and a practical way of using part of the skim milk when the +cream is taken off for butter. One and one-half ounces of cottage cheese +(one-fourth cup) are the protein equivalent of two ounces of lean beef. +Skim milk and buttermilk are just as good substitutes for meat as whole +milk. Since meat is one of the most expensive items in the food bill, its +replacement by milk is a very great financial economy. This is true even +if the meat is raised on the farm, as food for cattle is used much more +economically in the production of milk than of beef. + +_Milk is the greatest source of calcium (lime)._ Lime is one of the +components of food that serves two purposes; it is both building material +for bones and regulating material for the body as a whole, helping in +several important ways to maintain good health. It is essential that +everyone have a supply of lime and particularly important that all growing +infants, children, and young people have plenty for construction of bones +and teeth. There is almost none in meat and bread, none in common fats and +sugars, and comparatively few common foods can be taken alone and digested +in large enough quantities to insure an adequate supply; whereas a pint of +milk (whole, skim, or buttermilk) will guarantee to a grown person a +sufficient amount, and a quart a day will provide for the greater needs of +growing children. Whatever other foods we have, we cannot afford to +leave milk out of the diet because of its lime. Under the most favorable +dietary conditions, when the diet is liberal and varied, an adult should +have _at least_ half a pint of milk a day and no child should be +expected to thrive with less than a pint. + +_Milk contains a most varied assortment of materials needed in small +amounts_ for the body welfare, partly for constructive and partly for +regulating purposes. These are rather irregularly distributed in other +kinds of food materials. When eggs, vegetables, and cereals are freely +used, we are not likely to suffer any lack; but when war conditions limit +the number of foods which we can get, it is well to remember that the more +limited the variety of foods in the diet the more important milk becomes. + +_Milk will take the place of bread, butter, sugar, and other foods used +chiefly for fuel._ The body is an engine which must be stoked regularly in +order to work. The more work done the more fuel needed. That is what we +mean when we talk about the food giving "working strength." A farmer and +his wife and usually all the family need much fuel because they do much +physical work. Even people whose work is physically light require +considerable fuel. A quart of milk will give as much working force as half +a pound of bread, one-fourth of a pound of butter, or six ounces of sugar. +And this is in addition to the other advantages already mentioned. + +_Milk contains specifics for growth._ Experiments with animals have taught +us that there are two specific substances, known as vitamines, which must +be present in the diet if a young animal is to grow. If either one is +absent, growth is impossible. Both are to be found in milk, one in the +cream and the other in the skim milk or whey. For this reason children +should have whole milk rather than skim milk. Of course, butter and skim +milk should produce the same result as whole milk. Eggs also have these +requisites and can be used to supplement milk for either one, but as a +rule it is more practical to depend upon milk, and usually more +economical. + +For little children, milk is best served as a beverage. But as children +grow up, the fluidity of milk makes them feel as if it were not food +enough and it is generally better to use it freely in the kitchen first, +and then, if there is any surplus, put it on the table as a beverage or +serve it thus to those who need an extra supply--the half-grown boys, for +instance, who need more food in a day than even a hard-working farmer. + +A good plan is to set aside definitely, as a day's supply, a quart apiece +for each person under sixteen and a pint apiece for each one over this +age. Then see at night how well one has succeeded in disposing of it. If +there is much left, one should consider ways of using it to advantage. The +two simplest probably are, first, as cream sauce for vegetables of all +sorts; for macaroni or hominy with or without cheese; or for hard cooked +eggs or left-over meats; and next in puddings baked a long time in the +oven so that much of the water in the milk is evaporated. Such puddings +are easy to prepare on almost any scale and are invaluable for persons +with big appetites because they are concentrated without being +unwholesome. + +The milk pitcher and the vegetable garden are the best friends of the +woman wishing to set a wholesome and economical table. Vegetables +supplement milk almost ideally, since they contain the vegetable fiber +which helps to guard against constipation, and the iron which is the +lacking door in the "house that milk built." + +Vegetables which are not perfect enough to serve uncooked, like the broken +leaves of lettuce and the green and tough parts of celery, are excellent +cooked and served with a cream sauce. Cream sauce makes it possible also +to cook enough of a vegetable for two days at once, sending it to the +table simply dressed in its own juices or a little butter the first time +and making a scalloped dish with cream sauce and crumbs the next day. +Vegetables which do not lend themselves to this treatment can be made into +cream soups, which are excellent as the hot dish for supper, because they +can be prepared in the morning and merely reheated at serving time. + +Finally, the addition of milk in liberal quantities to tea and coffee +(used of course only by adults); its use without dilution with water in +cocoa; and instead of water in bread when that is made at home, ought to +enable a housewife to dispose satisfactorily of her day's quota of milk. +If it should accumulate, it can be dispatched with considerable rapidity +in the form of ice cream or milk sherbet. When there is much skim milk, +the latter is a most excellent way of making it popular, various fruits in +their seasons being used for flavor, as strawberries, raspberries, and +peaches, with lemons to fall back on when no native fruit is at hand. + +The world needs milk today as badly as wheat. All that we can possibly +spare is needed in Europe for starving little ones. In any shortage the +slogan must be "children first." But in any limited diet milk is such a +safeguard that we should bend our energies to saving it from waste and +producing more, rather than learning to do without it. Skim milk from +creameries is too valuable to be thrown away. Everyone should be on the +alert to condemn any use of milk except as food and to encourage +condensation and drying of skim milk to be used as a substitute for fresh +milk. + +When the milk pitcher is allowed to work its magic for the human race, we +shall have citizens of better physique than the records of our recruiting +stations show today. Even when the family table is deprived of its +familiar wheat bread and meat, we may be strong if we invoke the aid of +this friendly magician. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +CEREALS WE OUGHT TO EAT + + (Reprinted from _The Farmer's Wife_, by permission of the Webb + Publishing Company.) + + +"Save wheat!" This great slogan of our national food campaign has been +echoed and reechoed for six months, but do we yet realize that it means +US? We have had, hitherto, a great deal of wheat in our diet. Fully +one-third of our calories have come from wheat flour. To ask us to do +without wheat is to shake the very foundation of our daily living. How +shall we be able to do without it? What shall we substitute for it? These +are questions which every housewife must ask and answer before she can +take her place in the Amazon Army of Food Conservers. + +Is it not strange that out of half a dozen different grains cultivated for +human consumption, the demand should concentrate upon wheat? One might +almost say that the progress of civilization is marked by raised bread. +And wheat has, beyond all other grains, the unique properties that make +possible a light, porous yet somewhat tenacious loaf. We like the taste of +it, mild but sweet; the feel of it, soft yet firm; the comfort of it, +almost perfect digestion of every particle. We have been brought up on it +and it is a hardship to change our food habits. It takes courage and +resolution. It takes visions of our soldiers crossing the seas to defend +us from the greedy eye of militarism and thereby deprived of so many +things which we still enjoy. Shall we hold back from them the "staff of +life" which they need so much more than we? + +Can we live without wheat? Certainly, and live well. We must recognize the +scientific fact that no one food (with the exception of milk) is +indispensable. There are four letters in the food alphabet: _A_, fuel for +the body machine; _B_, protein for the upkeep of the machinery; _C_, +mineral salts, partly for upkeep and partly for lubrication--to make all +parts work smoothly together; _D_, vitamines, subtle and elusive +substances upon whose presence depends the successful use by the body of +all the others. These four letters, rightly combined, spell health. They +are variously distributed in food materials. Sometimes all are found in +one food (milk for example), sometimes only one (as in sugar), sometimes +two or three. The amounts also vary in the different foods. To build up a +complete diet we have to know how many of these items are present in a +given food and also how much of each is there. + +Now, cereals are much alike in what they contribute to the diet. In +comparing them we are apt to emphasize their differences, much as we do in +comparing two men. One man may be a little taller, a little heavier, have +a different tilt to his nose, but any two men are more alike than a man +and a dog. So corn has a little less protein than wheat and considerably +less lime, yet corn and wheat are, nutritionally, more alike than either +is like sugar. + +None of the cereals will make a complete diet by itself. If we take white +bread as the foundation, we must add to it something containing lime, such +as milk or cheese; something containing iron, such as spinach, egg yolk, +meat, or other iron-rich food; something containing vitamines, such as +greens or other vitamine-rich food; something to reenforce the proteins, +as milk, eggs, meat, or nuts. It is not possible to make a perfect diet +with only one other kind of food besides white bread. It can be done with +three: bread, milk, and spinach, for example. + +If we substitute whole wheat for white bread, we can make a complete diet +with two foods--this and milk. We get from the bran and the germ what in +the other case we got from the spinach. _All the cereals can be +effectively supplemented by milk and green vegetables._ If green +vegetables (or substitutes for them like dried peas and beans or fruit) +are hard to get we should give preference to cereals from which the bran +coats have not been removed, such as oatmeal and whole wheat. Then the +diet will not be deficient in iron, which is not supplied in large enough +amounts from white bread and milk. Oatmeal is the richest in iron of all +the cereals. + +With such knowledge, we may alter our diet very greatly without danger of +undernutrition. But we must learn to cook other cereals at least as well +as we do wheat. Without proper cooking they are unpalatable and +unwholesome, and they are not so easy to cook as wheat. They take a longer +time and we cannot get the same culinary effects, since with the exception +of rye they will not make a light loaf. Fortunately we are not asked to +deny ourselves wheat entirely, only to substitute other cereals for part +of it. Let each housewife resolve when next she buys flour to buy at the +same time one-fourth as much of some other grain, finely ground, rye, +corn, barley, according to preference, and mix the two thoroughly at once. +Then she will be sure not to forget to carry out her good intentions. +Bread made of such a mixture will be light and tender, and anything that +cannot be made with it had better be dispensed with in these times. + +Besides the saving of wheat for our country's sake, we shall do well to +economize in it for our own. Compared with other cereals, wheat is +expensive. We can get more food, in every sense of the word, from half a +pound of oatmeal than we can from a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread, and +the oatmeal will not cost one-half as much as the bread. A loaf of Boston +brown bread made with one cupful each of cornmeal, oatmeal (finely +ground), rye flour, molasses, and skim milk will have two and one-half +times the food value of a twelve-ounce loaf of white bread and will cost +little more. One-half pound of cornmeal, supplemented by a half pint of +milk, will furnish more of everything needed by the body than such a +twelve-ounce loaf, usually at less cost. + +It pays at all times to use cereals in other forms than bread, for both +health and economy. Does your family eat cereal for breakfast? A dish of +oatmeal made from one-fourth cupful of the dry cereal will take the place +of two slices of white bread, each about half an inch thick and three +inches square, and give us iron besides. Served with milk, it will make a +well-balanced meal. When we add a little fruit to give zest and some crisp +corn bread to contrast with the soft mush, we have a meal in which we may +take a just pride, _provided the oatmeal is properly cooked_. + +A good dish of oatmeal is as creditable a product as a good loaf of bread. +It cannot be made without taking pains to get the right proportions of +meal, water, and salt, and to cook thoroughly, which means at least four +hours in a double boiler, over night in a fireless cooker, or half an hour +at twenty pounds in a pressure cooker. Half-cooked oatmeal is most +unwholesome, as well as unpalatable. It is part of our patriotic duty not +to give so useful a food a bad reputation. + +The man who does hard physical labor, especially in the open air, may +complain that the oatmeal breakfast does not "stay by" him. This is +because it digests rapidly. What he needs is a little fat stirred into the +mush before it is sent to the table, or butter as well as milk and sugar +served with it. If one must economize, the cereal breakfast should always +be the rule. It is impossible in any other way to provide for a family +adequately on a small sum, especially where there are growing children. + +Next to oatmeal, hominy is one of the cheapest breakfast foods. It has +less flavor and is improved by the addition of a few dates cut into +quarters or some small stewed seedless raisins, which also add the iron +which hominy lacks. For the adults of the family the staying qualities of +hominy and cornmeal can be increased by cutting the molded mush in slices +and frying till a crisp crust is formed. This can be obtained more easily +if the cereals are cooked in a mixture of milk and water instead of water +alone. The milk supplements the cereal as acceptably as in a dish of mush +and milk. Cornmeal needs even more cooking than oatmeal to develop an +agreeable flavor. It can be improved by the addition of an equal amount of +farina or cream of wheat. + +Cereals for dinner are acceptable substitutes for such vegetables as +potatoes, both for economy and for variety. The whole grains, rice, +barley, and hominy, lend themselves best to such use. Try a dish of +creamed salmon with a border of barley; one of hominy surrounded by fried +apples; or a bowl of rice heaped with bananas baked to a turn and removed +from their skins just before serving, and be glad that the war has stirred +you out of food ruts! + +Cereals combined with milk make most wholesome puddings, each almost a +well-balanced meal in itself. They are easier to make than pies, +shortcakes, and other desserts which require wheat flour, and they are +splendid growing food for boys and girls. + +For the hard-working man who misses the slowly-digesting pie, serve the +puddings with a hard sauce or add a little butter when making them. For +the growing children, raisins, dates, and other fruits are welcome +additions on account of their iron. From half a cupful to a cupful of +almost any cereal pudding made with milk is the equivalent of an ordinary +serving of pie. + +Aside from the avoidance of actual waste of food materials, there seems to +be no one service so imperative for housewives to render in these critical +times as the mastery of the art of using cereals. These must be made to +save not only wheat but meat, and for most of us also money. + +A wholesome and yet economical diet may be built upon a plan wherein we +find for an average working man fourteen ounces of cereal food and one +pint of milk, from two to four ounces of meat or a good meat substitute, +two ounces of fat, three ounces of sugar or other sweeteners, at least one +kind of fruit, and one kind of vegetable besides potatoes (more if one has +a garden). + +The cereal may furnish half the fuel value of the diet, partly +bread-stuffs and partly in some of the other ways as suggested, without +any danger of undernutrition. Remember the fable of the farmer who told +his sons he had left them a fortune and bade them dig on his farm for it +after his death, and how they found wealth not as buried treasure but +through thorough tillage of the soil. So one might leave a message to +woman to look in the cereal pot, for there is a key to health and wealth, +and a weapon to win the greatest war the world has ever seen. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE MEAT WE OUGHT TO SAVE + + +"Do not buy a pound of meat until you have bought three quarts of milk" is +a "war sign" pointing two ways. On the one hand it tells us that we need +to save meat; on the other, that we should encourage the production of +that most indispensable food--milk. + +But what a revolution in some households if this advice is heeded! +Statisticians tell us that Americans have been consuming meat at the rate +of 171 pounds per capita per year, which means nearly half a pound apiece +every day for each man, woman, child, and infant in arms. Now, as mere +infants and some older folk have not had any, it follows that many of us +have had a great deal more. Did we need it? Shall we be worse off without +it? Meat is undeniably popular. In spite of the rising price and the +patriotic spirit of conservation, meat consumption goes on in many +quarters at much the usual rate. There is probably no other one food so +generally liked. It has a decided and agreeable flavor, a satisfactory +"chew," and leaves an after-sense of being well fed that many take as the +sign of whether they are well nourished or not. It digests well, even when +eaten rapidly, and perhaps partly for this reason is favored by the +hurried man of affairs. It is easy to prepare and hence is appreciated by +the cook, who knows that even with unskillful treatment it will be +acceptable and require few accessories to make an agreeable meal. Its rich +flavor helps to relieve the flatness of foods like rice, hominy, beans, or +bread. From this point of view there is no such thing as a "meat +substitute." + +But, nutritionally speaking, meat is only one of many; undeniably a good +source of protein, but no better than milk or eggs. A lamb chop is a very +nice item on a bill of fare, but the protein it contains can be secured +just as well from one large egg, or two level tablespoonfuls of peanut +butter, or one and one-fourth ounces of cheese; or a part of the time from +a quarter of a cup of dried navy beans or a little less of dried split +peas. + +Meat is highly regarded as a source of iron; but, again, it has no +monopoly of this important building-stone in the house of diet. The eggs, +or peas, or half the beans mentioned above would any one of them furnish +more iron than the lamb chop, while a quarter of a cup of cooked spinach +or a small dish of string beans would furnish quite as much. Besides green +vegetables, fruit, and the yolk of egg, cereals are a not inconsiderable +source of iron. A man would have adequate nourishment for a day, including +a sufficient supply of iron, if he were doing only moderate physical +labor, from one pint of milk, one and one-half pounds of whole wheat +bread, and three medium-sized apples. Beef juice is often used as a source +of iron for children and undoubtedly it is one which is palatable and +digestible, but it takes a quarter of a pound of beef to get a few +tablespoonfuls of juice, and a tablespoonful of juice would hardly contain +as much iron as one egg yolk; and it seems probable that the iron of the +egg yolk would be better utilized for the making of good red blood. + +Meat is good fuel for the human machine if used in moderate amounts along +with other food. But meat is no better fuel than other food. An ordinary +lamb chop will furnish no more calories than a dish of oatmeal, a piece of +bread an inch thick and three inches square, a large apple or banana, an +egg, five ounces (five-eighths of a cup) of milk, or a tablespoonful of +peanut butter. The fatter meat is the higher its fuel value (providing the +fat is used for food). A tablespoonful of bacon fat or beef drippings has +the same fuel value as a tablespoonful of butter or lard, or as the lamb +chop mentioned above. The man who insists that he has to have meat for +working strength judges by how he feels after a meal and not by the +scientific facts. While in the long run appetite serves as a measure of +food requirement, we can find plenty of instances where it does not make a +perfect measure. Some people have too large appetites for their body needs +and get too fat from sheer surplus of fuel stored in the body for future +needs as fat. If such people have three good meals a day all the time, +there never is any future need and the fat stays. Other people have too +small appetites for their needs and they never seem to get a surplus of +fuel on hand. They live, as it were, from hand to mouth. Anyone accustomed +to eating meat will have an unsatisfied feeling at first after a meal +without meat. The same is true of other highly flavored foods. It is well +for the cook to bear this in mind and serve a few rather highly seasoned +dishes when there is no meat on the bill of fare. A very sweet dessert +will often satisfy this peculiar sensation, and it can be allayed, at +least in part, by the drinking of water some little time after the meal. +Such a sensation will pass away when one becomes accustomed to the change +in diet. It is probably due to certain highly flavored substances +dissolved in the meat juices which are known to be excellent stimulants to +the flow of gastric juice and which are stimulating in other ways. These +have no food value in themselves, but, nevertheless, we prize meat for +them, as is shown by the distaste we have for meat which has its juices +removed. "Soup meat" has always been a problem for the housewife--hard to +make palatable--and yet the greater part of the nourishment of meat is +left in the meat itself after soup is made from it. + +Let us frankly recognize then that we eat meat because we like it--for its +flavor and texture rather than any peculiar nourishing properties--and +that it is only our patriotic self-denial or force of economic +circumstances that induces us to forgo our accustomed amounts of a food +which is pleasant and (in moderation) wholesome. We must save meat that +the babies of the world may have milk to drink. Nowhere in Europe is there +enough milk for babies today. A conservative request for one European city +alone was a shipment of one million pounds of condensed milk per month! If +cattle are killed for food there will be little milk to send and the +babies will perish. We must save meat for our soldiers and sailors, +because they need it more than we do. It is not only easily transported, +but one of the few things to give zest to their necessarily limited fare. +Fresh fruits and green vegetables, which may serve us as appetizers, are +not to be found on the war fields. Dainty concoctions from cheese and nuts +may provide for us flavor as well as nutriment, but meat is the +alternative to the dull monotony of bread and beans for the soldier--the +tonic of appetite, the stimulant to good digestion. We can scarcely send +him anything to take its place. + +We must save meat, too, as a general food economy. Meat is produced at the +expense of grain, which we might eat ourselves. And the production of meat +is a very wasteful process. Grains have a fuel value for man approximating +1,600 calories per pound. A pound of meat in the form of beef will require +the consumption by the animal of some fourteen pounds of grain. The pound +of beef will furnish perhaps 1,200 calories, while the grain consumed will +represent over 20,000 calories. The production of milk from grain is only +about one-third as expensive, so the purchase of three quarts of milk to +one pound of meat is an economy in more ways than one. + +Saving for the rest of the world will not be without some physical +advantage to ourselves, if we have been accustomed to indulge in meat +freely. Among the well-to-do meat eating is apt to be overdone to the +extent of affecting the kidneys and the arteries, and some enforced +restriction would be a real advantage to health, as has been demonstrated +in other than war times. Because a food is good is no reason for unlimited +quantities; an ounce of sugar a day is wholesome--a pound is likely to +result in both indigestion and a badly balanced diet. A quarter of a pound +of meat a day is not undesirable for an adult, but a pound a day may +result in general overeating or in the special ills which are related +directly to a large quantity of meat. One of these is an upsetting of a +proper balance of food elements in the diet. Diets high in meat are apt to +be low in milk and consequently low in calcium. If the income is limited +this is almost sure to be the case, since there will not be enough money +to provide meat freely and at the same time satisfy other nutritive +requirements. Such diets are also likely to be low in fuel value and not +provide enough working force even while men are declaring that they must +have meat to give them strength. They would have more strength and a +better diet from every point of view if part of the meat money were spent +for milk. So the injunction to buy three quarts of milk to one pound of +meat is a good rule for securing a well balanced and ample diet at the +lowest cost. + +Another good rule is to spend no more for meat, fish, and eggs than for +milk, and as much for fruits and vegetables as for meat, fish, and eggs. +Families very commonly spend as much as one-third of the food money for +meat; and, while they may secure a full third of their protein, iron, and +phosphorus in this way, they may not get more than a sixth of their fuel +and almost no calcium. Three quarts of milk at fourteen cents a quart will +yield about 2,000 calories. For an expenditure of forty-two cents for beef +as free from waste as milk, we would pay perhaps thirty-two cents per +pound. A pound and a quarter of lean beef would yield about 1,000 +calories. So as fuel alone the milk would be twice as cheap as the meat. +Three quarts of milk would yield almost if not quite as much protein as +the meat and a liberal supply of calcium to offset the iron furnished by +the meat. Everything considered, then, milk is a better investment than +meat. The same is true of some of the other foods which supply protein in +the diet such as dry peas and beans; cheese and peanut butter are at least +twice as valuable nutritionally as beef. The domestic problem is to make +palatable dishes from these foods. This requires time and patience. The +cook must not get discouraged if the first trial does not bring marked +success. The rest of the family should count it their "bit" to eat +valiantly until they can eat joyfully. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +THE POTATO AND ITS SUBSTITUTES + + +Never did it seem truer that "blessings brighten as they take their +flight" than when the potato went off the market or soaring prices put it +out of reach in the winter of 1917. "How shall I plan my meals without +it?" was the housewife's cry. "How shall I enjoy my meals without it?" +said all the millions of potato eaters who immediately forgot that there +was still a large number of foods from which they might extract some +modicum of enjoyment. + +And so the Nutrition Expert was asked to talk about "potato substitutes" +and expected to exercise some necromancy whereby that which was not a +potato might become a potato. Now, the Nutrition Expert was very +imperturbable--not at all disturbed by the calamity which had befallen our +tables. That unfeeling person saw potatoes, not in terms of their hot +mealiness and spicy mildness, but in terms of that elusive thing called +"DIET." The vanishing tuber was bidden to answer the dietary roll-call: + + "Proteins?" "Here!" Answer somewhat faint but + suggesting remarkable worth. + + "Fats?" No answer. + + "Carbohydrates?" Loud note from "Starch." + + "Mineral salts?" "Here!" From a regular chorus, among + which "Potassium" and "Iron" + easily distinguishable. + + "Vitamines and "Here! Here!" Especially vociferous, the + Other Accessories?" "Anti-Scorbutic Property." + +"This is a good showing for any single food material. The potato, as truly +as bread, may be called a 'staff of life.' Men have lived in health upon +it for many months without any other food save oleomargarine. Its protein, +though small in amount, is most efficient in body-building, its salts are +varied in kind and liberal in amount, and it furnishes a large amount of +very easily digested fuel besides. It is at its best when cooked in the +simplest possible way--baked or boiled in its skin. Nevertheless we are +not absolutely dependent upon the potato." + +"Alas," said the housewife, "this doesn't tell me what to cook for +dinner!" "Patience, Madam, we shall see about that." The fact that starch +is present is what makes the potato seem so substantial. But bread, rice, +hominy, in fact, all cereal foods can supply starch just as well. Pick out +the one you fancy and serve it for your dinner. One good-sized roll or a +two-inch cube of corn bread, or three-fourths of a cup of boiled rice will +sustain you just as well as a medium-sized potato. A banana, baked or +fried, makes an excellent substitute for a potato. An apple is also a very +palatable potato equivalent, if you want something more spicy than hominy +or corn bread. Why mourn over the lost potato? + +But how about those mineral salts? Well, the potato has no monopoly on +those, either, though it is ordinarily a very valuable contributor. Milk +has already been mentioned as one of the great safeguarding sources of +so-called ash constituents. Others are vegetables and fruits of different +kinds. These have been a neglected and sometimes a despised part of the +diet: "Why spend money for that which is not meat?" is often taken +literally. Even food specialists have been known to say, "Fruits and +vegetables are mostly water and indigestible fiber; they have little food +value." This is a good deal like saying, "If your coat be long enough you +do not need a pair of shoes." A potato has as much iron as an egg yolk or +a medium-sized chop. This is one more reason why we should be sorry to +take the useful tuber from our tables, but we may feel a certain +independence, even when meat and eggs are prohibitive in price, since by +canning or drying, if in no other way, we can have green vegetables as a +source of iron the whole year through. Some people are afraid that canned +vegetables will prove unwholesome; but if removed from the can as soon as +opened and heated to boiling before they are eaten, we are recently +assured that the danger of food poisoning will be materially lessened. +Even when such vegetables are wanted for salads, boiling and subsequent +cooling are advised. The mineral salts of vegetables dissolve into the +water in which they stand, and in any shortage of such food, or for the +greatest economy, it would seem wise to save the water in the can, which +is often thrown away to secure a more delicate flavor. Water from the +cooking of fresh vegetables which are not protected by skins (among them +spinach, peas, carrots, and asparagus), can often be reduced to a small +amount by steaming instead of boiling the vegetable, or any drained off +can be used in gravy, soup, sauce, or some similar fashion. The strong +flavor of some vegetables, however, makes such economy rather impractical. + +Some people discriminate against canned and dried vegetables because they +do not taste like fresh ones. This seems rather unreasonable, as we want a +variety of flavors in our diet and might welcome the change which comes +from this way of treating food as well as that which comes from different +methods of cooking. Nobody expects a stew to taste like a roast, and yet +both may be good and we would not want either one all the time. Instead of +regretting that canned peas do not taste like those fresh from the garden +(incomparable ones!) let us be glad that they taste as good as they do. +Would we like them any better if they tasted like cornmeal mush? + +While a potato has about as much phosphorus as an egg yolk, substitutes +for it in this respect are not hard to find. Five tablespoonfuls of milk +or half an ounce of cheese will easily supply as much, while half a cup of +cooked string beans will provide all the iron as well as half the +phosphorus in a potato, and a teaspoon of butter or other fat added to the +beans will make them equal in fuel value. On the other hand, two small +slices of whole wheat bread would furnish all the phosphorus, half the +iron, and an equal amount of fuel. + +The potato is conspicuously high in potassium, but it is not likely that +in any diet containing one kind of fruit and one kind of vegetable each +day there will be any permanent shortage of this substance. Spinach, +celery, parsnips, lettuce, cabbage, rutabagas, beets, carrots, tomatoes, +cucumbers, and turnips are all good sources of potassium and some of them +are available all the year round without canning and drying. + +But what significance has the "Anti-Scorbutic Property"? Does that not +make potatoes indispensable? Scurvy, Madam, occurs whenever people live +for a long time on a monotonous diet without fresh food. The potato offers +good protection against this disease at a low cost, but other foods have +long been known to possess the same power, among them oranges, lemons, +limes, and other fruits, and cabbage and other green vegetables; in fact, +a mixed diet in which fruits and vegetables occur is assurance of freedom +from scurvy. Just how far the potato will go in providing the specific +vitamines essential for growth is still unsettled. It undoubtedly contains +one of them in goodly amount, but for the present it is wise to include +some green (leaf) vegetable in the diet even when potatoes are plentiful, +especially if butter, milk, and eggs cannot be freely used. + +Nutritionally then, we can find substitutes for the potato; practically, +too, we can find quite satisfactory alternatives for it in our +conventional bills of fare. On the face of things the potato is a bland +mealy food which blends well with the high flavor and the firm texture of +meat and the softness of many other cooked vegetables. Gastronomically, +rice or hominy comes about as near to having the same qualities, with hot +bread, macaroni, sweet potatoes, and baked bananas (underripe so as not to +be too juicy and sweet) close rivals. These are not so easy to cook and +serve as the potato and are not likely to supplant it when it is +plentiful. It might be worth while, however, to substitute these for +potatoes rather often. The latter will be appreciated all the more if not +served every day in the week, or at least not more than once a day. We +might extend the fashion of baked beans and brown bread to roast pork with +rice, ham with baked bananas, roast beef with hominy, and broiled steak +with macaroni. Why not? You, Madam Housewife, are always sighing for +variety, but does it never occur to you that the greatest secret of +variety lies in new combinations? + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ARE FRUITS AND VEGETABLES LUXURIES? + + +In the house of diet fruits and vegetables may be likened to windows and +doors, fire-places and chimneys; we could dispense with them, we could +board up our windows and make a fire on a big stone in the middle of the +room, letting the smoke escape through a hole in the roof, but such a +course would not mean comfort year in and year out. So we may exist +without fruits and vegetables, but it is worth while to stop and consider +what we gain by their use. + +We shall have to admit at the outset that if we have to spend money or +labor for them, fruits and vegetables are not the cheapest source of fuel +for the human machine. Some of them are cheaper fuel than butter, eggs, or +meat, but not as cheap as cereals, sugar, molasses, syrups, and some of +our cheapest fats. This is true of potatoes, parsnips, carrots, dried peas +and beans, and such fruits as bananas, prunes, raisins, dates, figs, and +possibly a few other dried fruits, but we cannot justify our investment in +most fruits and vegetables solely on the plea that they are "filling" in +the sense of being of high fuel value; on this ground lettuce, celery, +cabbage, tomatoes, lemons, rhubarb, cranberries, and many others would +find no place in our domestic economy. + +Remembering that man does not live by fuel alone, we may find ample +reasons for spending some of our food money upon things which at first +thought seem to give an inadequate return. There is an old adage, "An +apple a day keeps the doctor away," which if true means that the apple is +a real economy, a kind of health insurance, for an apple costs seldom over +five cents--often only one--and a doctor's visit may easily cost a hundred +times as much. There is a certain amount of truth in the saying, though +the apple does not have a monopoly of the supposed virtue. It is more +accurate, if less poetic, to say that an _assortment_ of fruits and +vegetables helps to keep us in good health. Before the days of modern +"cold pack" canning, mothers used to assemble their little home groups in +the spring and, in spite of sundry hidings under tables on the part of +reluctant Johnnies and Susies, dutifully portion out herb tea or sulphur +in molasses. Spring cleaning could never stop short of "cleansing the +blood!" And after a monotonous winter of salt pork and fried potatoes no +doubt heroic measures were necessary to make up for an ill-chosen diet. +Nowadays we recognize no such seasonal need. We carry our surplus of +fruits and vegetables over from summer to winter and profit not only in +the greater daily pleasure of our tables but in clearer skins, brighter +eyes, and less "spring fever." + +How do fruits and vegetables help to keep us well? In the first place, by +their wholesome effect upon the bowels. As a rule we associate regular +daily movements with health, but do not always recognize the part which +diet plays in securing them. If we eat little besides meat and potatoes, +bread, butter, and cake or pie, we are very likely to have constipation. +This is particularly true for those who work indoors or sit much of the +time. Now, fruits and vegetables have several properties which help to +make them laxative. Many have considerable woody fiber. In celery and +asparagus we find it in actual "strings"; in cabbage, spinach, lettuce, +and other stem or leaf vegetables it may not be so noticeable, but it is +certainly present and we should realize that it is useful. The skins of +fruit are of this nature and may often be eaten, as in case of prunes, +figs, apples, dried peaches and apricots. The outer coats of grains, which +serve the same purpose, are frequently removed by milling, but similar +coats of peas and beans are not so removed except in the case of dried +split peas. In the juices of fruits and vegetables we find a variety of +laxative substances. This explains why apple juice (sweet cider), orange +juice or diluted lemon juice may be a very desirable morning drink. The +effect is partly due to the acid but not wholly. Juices which are not acid +to the taste, as those of prunes, figs, onions, have laxative properties. +So from a great variety of fruits and vegetables, especially those which +are fibrous or acid or both, we may obtain the substitute for "pills" in +wholesome foods which are generally cheaper than drugs. + +No diet can be properly built without a suitable supply of mineral salts. +The free use of milk is our greatest safeguard against lack of any save +iron, but when milk is scarce and has to be saved as now for the babies of +the world, it is fortunate that we can make fruits and vegetables take its +place in part. Some of our very common vegetables are good sources of the +calcium (lime) and phosphorus so freely supplied in milk. Among these may +be taken as an example the carrot, which has not had due recognition in +many quarters and in some is even spoken of contemptuously as "cattle +food." Its cheapness comes from the fact that it is easy to grow and easy +to keep through the winter and should not blind us to its merits. A +good-sized carrot (weight one-fourth pound) will have only about half the +fuel value of a medium-sized potato, but nearly ten times as much calcium +as the potato and about one-third more phosphorus. While actual figures +show that other vegetables, especially parsnips, turnips, celery, +cauliflower, and lettuce, are richer in calcium than the carrot, its +cheapness and fuel value make it worthy of emphasis. Everyone who has a +garden should devote some space to this pretty and palatable vegetable. It +is perhaps at its best when steamed till soft without salting and then cut +up into a nicely seasoned white sauce; its sweetness will not then be +destroyed nor its salts lost in the cooking water. It is not only useful +as a hot vegetable, but in salads, in the form of a toothsome marmalade, +and as the foundation of a steamed pudding. For little children it is most +wholesome and they should make its acquaintance by the time they are a +year and a half old, in the form of a cream soup. A dish of carrots and +peas (one-half cup peas, one-fourth cup carrot cubes, one-half cup white +sauce) will have almost the same food values (for fuel, calcium, +phosphorus, and iron) as an equivalent serving of oatmeal, milk, and sugar +(three-fourths cup cooked oatmeal, one-half cup milk, one rounding +teaspoon sugar) and will add variety to the diet without costing a great +deal more unless one pays a fancy price for peas. + +Even when meat and eggs are not prohibitive in price, fruit and green +vegetables are an important source of iron in the diet. And when war +conditions make the free consumption of meat unpatriotic, it is reassuring +to think that we really can get along without meat very well if we know +how. Two ounces of lean beef will furnish no more iron than a quarter of a +cup of cooked spinach or half a cup of cooked string beans or dried beans, +or one-sixth of a cup of raisins, or half a dozen good-sized prunes. +Cabbage, peas, lettuce, dandelion greens, beet tops, turnip tops and other +"greens" are well worth including in our bill of fare for their iron +alone. By the time children are a year old we begin to introduce special +iron-bearing foods into their diet to supplement milk. Aside from egg +yolk, we give preference for this purpose to green vegetable juice or +pulp, especially from peas and spinach or a mixture of both. The +substantial character of dry beans is too well known to require comment, +but how many realize that they are a most valuable source of iron and +other mineral salts? The fact that they are not a "complete diet" in +themselves should not disturb anyone who realizes that all diets are built +from a variety of foods. We are hardly likely to use beans to the +exclusion of everything else except in dire necessity, and then what +better could we do than use freely a food which will go so far toward +sustaining life at so small a cost? + +There is a further significance for fruits and vegetables in their +contribution to the diet of the growth-promoting, health-protecting +vitamines. That the presence of fruits and vegetables in the diet is a +safeguard against scurvy is well known, though the full scientific +explanation is not yet ours. That the leaf vegetables (spinach, lettuce, +cabbage, and the like) contain both the vitamines which are essential to +growth in the young and to the maintenance of health in the adult seems +assured, and gives us further justification for emphasis on green +vegetables in the diet of little children, when properly +administered--i.e., always cooked, put through a fine sieve, and fed in +small quantities. + +Aside from being valuable for regulation of the bowels, for mineral salts, +and vitamines, to say nothing of more or less fuel value, fruits and +vegetables give zest to the diet. The pleasant acidity of many fruits, +their delicate aroma, their beautiful form and coloring, the ease of +preparing them for the table, are qualities for which we may legitimately +prize them, though we may not spend money for them until actual nutritive +requirements are met. Dr. Simon Patten, in his _New Basis for +Civilisation_, ably expresses the value of appetizers: "Tomatoes, the +hothouse delicacy of the Civil War time, are doing now what many a bloody +revolution failed to accomplish; they have relieved the monotony of the +salt pork and boiled potatoes upon the poor man's table. The clear acid +flavor of the canned vegetable lightens ugly heaviness and adds tonic +gratifications for the lack of which men have let each other's blood." + +As already remarked, those who have plenty of highly flavored meat are apt +to be satisfied by it or to demand stronger flavors (coffee, catsup, +pickles, and tobacco) than those found in fruits and vegetables. They are +also apt to spend so much money on meat that they have none left to buy +what seem to them unimportant items in the diet, and to have a much less +wholesome diet than they might have for the same money. Studies of +expenditures in many families show that a good rule to insure a well +balanced diet is to spend no more money for meat than one does for fruit +and vegetables. Also, it is well to remember that vegetables are usually +cheaper than fruits and that dried ones may largely take the place of +canned or fresh ones. For wholesome and economical living, have fruit of +some kind at least once a day and make the main dish of one meal a +vegetable dish whenever possible. Thick cream soups, souffles, creamed or +scalloped vegetables, are all substantial and appetizing. The way to learn +to like such foods is to keep trying. One may learn contentment with the +proverbial dinner of herbs more easily by realizing that one is building +valuable bricks into the house of diet; and in the present emergency one +may, by selection of fruits and vegetables of high energy value, save less +perishable foods for our soldiers and allies. The knowledge that a banana +is equivalent in calories to a large slice of bread or a small pat of +butter becomes tremendously significant; that an apple, an orange, four +prunes, four dates, or a cup of peas, may not only take the place of bread +but actually add something which the bread does not contain, means that we +may be the gainers from our own sacrifices, without embarrassment thereat. +We shall have reaped a speedy reward for doing our duty. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +FATS AND VITAMINES + + +In the days of the ancient Romans vegetable oils were prized for food and +butter was used for cosmetics. In America today we are asking what is to +become of us if we cannot have butter to eat! Such are the fashions in +food. "June butter" is one of our gastronomic traditions. The sample in +the restaurant may have none of the firm creamy texture and delicate +aromatic flavor of the product of the old spring house; but as long as it +is labeled butter we try to bring our sensations into line with our +imaginations. For the real butter flavor there is no more a substitute +than there is for the aroma of coffee. But these are matters of esthetic +pleasure rather than of nutrition. They depend largely upon habit. Whale +blubber and seal oil are as much appreciated in some quarters as butter is +by us. An American going inland from the Atlantic coast is often surprised +to find that olive oil, instead, of being served on every table, is +exceedingly disliked. + +For the sustenance of the body we must recognize that fat is fat, whatever +its flavor. A calorie from butter yields neither more nor less energy than +a calorie from lard or bacon, olive oil or cottonseed oil. The common food +fats are all very well digested if judiciously used--not in too large +quantities, nor over-heated in cooking, and not "cooked into" things too +much as in pastries, rich sauces, and fried foods. Whether we spread our +bread with butter or beef drippings amounts to the same thing in the long +run; the main point is which we are willing to eat. + +A change is rapidly coming over our food habits. The price of butter has +been soaring beyond our reach, and the market for "butterine," "nut +margarine," "oleomargarine," or whatever the substitute table fat may be +called, has expanded tremendously. It is excellent household economy to +buy milk and a butter substitute rather than cream or butter. In these +substitutes refined vegetable oils such as cottonseed, cocoanut, and +peanut, and oils derived from beef or lard are so combined or treated as +to produce the desired hardness, and churned with milk or milk and butter +to improve texture and flavor. Lard substitutes are similarly made from +one or more of these fats, but are harder in texture and no attempt is +made to give them a butter flavor by churning with milk. All the fats used +are wholesome and efficient sources of energy for the human machine. + +In the absence of butter some other form of fat is desirable in the diet, +because fat is so concentrated a food. There is a limit to the capacity of +the human stomach to hold food. People who live on a diet largely of rice, +which has almost no fat in its make-up, develop characteristically +distended abdomens, because they have to eat such a great quantity of food +to get fuel enough for their day's work. When people are for any reason +put on a milk diet for a considerable time it is customary to put +something into the milk to make it more concentrated, for otherwise they +would drink and drink and then hardly get fuel enough. To give a concrete +illustration--a man's energy requirement for a day may be met by from four +to five quarts of milk (unless he is doing very heavy manual labor), but +it would be much more practical to substitute a loaf of bread, which is +comparatively dry, for one quart of milk, and three ounces of fat (six +tablespoonfuls) for another quart of milk, making the total volume but +little over half what it would be if four quarts of milk were taken. For +people who are engaged in hard physical toil, fat is exceedingly important +for this purpose of gaining in concentration. "Fat is fuel for fighters," +and it is perfectly reasonable to ask those who are not doing much heavy +labor to eat other kinds of food and save fat for those who simply have to +have it to do their work well. In the ordinary mixed diet one can easily +dispense with an ounce of fat (two tablespoonfuls). Each tablespoonful is +equalled in energy by an apple, or a banana, a large egg, two half-inch +slices of bread about three inches square, four dates, four prunes--and it +is no great strain on one's capacity for food to substitute such items for +the fat. + +On account of its concentration, fat is good for transportation; and aside +from its energy value it gives the diet "staying" qualities. Other things +being equal, one feels hungry sooner after a meal without fat than after +one in which it is liberally supplied. People doing manual labor, and +especially out of doors, feel the pangs of hunger more than sedentary +folks and hence need more fat to keep them comfortable. No man can do his +best work when all the time thinking how hungry he is. It behooves us all +then, as good citizens, to recognize the greater need of our soldiers and +sailors and our hard-working laborers for as liberal allowances of fat as +we can make. At the same time, we cannot for our own best health dispense +with fat altogether. We may consider anything up to two ounces apiece a +day legitimate for our own maintenance of efficiency. + +In departing from food customs there is a natural timidity lest the new +food shall in some way be less healthful than the old. Recent scientific +researches have revealed a hitherto unsuspected property in butter, a +discovery which has aroused some concern as to whether we can safely +substitute other fats for it. Young animals fed on a diet of highly +purified food materials in which lard is the only kind of fat may seem +fairly well but do not grow normally, while those fed the same diet in +every respect except that the lard is replaced by butter grow as young +animals should and are more resistant to disease. Study of other food fats +shows that they may be divided into two groups, one with this growth +promoting property and one without it. In general, the vegetable oils do +not have it, while butter and beef oil do; on the other hand, lard does +not have it, while the oil from corn does. Careful analysis of the +situation has shown that a fat-soluble vitamine is present which can in +the laboratory be separated from the fat. This same vitamine is present in +a variety of food materials--in whole milk, in egg yolks, in leaves of +plants--but we have not studied it long enough to know just how much +spinach we can substitute for a tablespoonful of butter so far as the +vitamine is concerned. We must await further investigations. But we may +rest assured that with a fairly liberal amount of milk and some green +vegetables, possibly some beef fat, we need not fear any disastrous +consequences from the substitution of some other fat for butter. Where the +diet is limited and the entire quantity of fat is not very large, it seems +prudent to select oleomargarine made largely from beef oil and, where +circumstances permit its use without the sacrifice of any other dietary +essential, to use butter in the diet of growing children unless they get a +full quart of milk apiece a day. + +Changing our food customs is difficult because it means also changing our +cooking customs. But many dishes can be made with less fat than we are +accustomed to put in or with different kinds from those we have hitherto +preferred. Often the fat from frying is left in the pan to be washed out +and thrown away. If every cook could say to herself, "Every two drops of +fat make a calorie and every calorie counts in the world today," it might +seem more worth while to hold the pan a minute and drain out the fat for +further use. A thousand calories mean a day's life to a baby. It is always +more wholesome to cook foods so that they are not coated with fat, and one +may get brown products in a frying pan without more than a thin film of +fat to keep the food from sticking. It is well to remember in this +connection that the unsalted lard substitutes are more satisfactory than +the saltier fat foods, in which there may be a trace of milk. + +The thought that fat is fuel wherever we find it in food will stiffen our +resolution to take a little pains with the fats which we have been wont to +discard. Anyone can get from the Department of Agriculture suggestions for +the practical use of chicken, mutton, beef, and other kinds of meat fats. +The main points are to free them from flavor, by melting them with milk or +water, possibly using some special absorbent like potato or charcoal too, +and then mixing hard and soft together, just as the oleomargarine-makers +do, to get such a degree of hardness as suits one's purpose. All this +requires time and thought. Let no one dream that the patriotic duties of +the kitchen are trivial. Anything that is worth while costs something; +money, thought, labor--perhaps all three. To salvage kitchen fat may not +be economical in time and labor (though it generally is more so than one +might think), but there is more time and labor than food available today. +So it seems the "bit" of the housekeeper to set a standard for her family +as to the amount of fat she will purchase per week, which is at least +one-fourth lower than their ordinary consumption, and to depend upon +special conservation of what may have gone to waste hitherto for any +increase in this allowance. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +"SUGAR AND SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE" + + +"Do come and taste how nice the burnt pig eats!" So cried the miscreant +son of Hati when his attempt to rescue his father's live-stock from utter +destruction resulted (at least according to Lamb) in adding one more +delicacy to the table of civilized man. That the "burnt pig" commended +itself instantly to the taste of other men is attested by the recklessness +with which they ignited their own houses to secure the new sensation +again. + +Not all flavors make an immediate appeal. Many persons can mark the time +when they learned to like olives, or tomatoes, or tea. The taste for some +foods was acquired so early that there is no consciousness of any time +when they were not enjoyed, and the impression prevails that the liking +for such foods is instinctive. Sometimes that is the case, but quite as +often not. Children have to be taught by patient repetition to like most +of the common foods which make the staples of the diet, and likings thus +acquired are as strong as those which seem more natural. + +However taste be accounted for, we have to recognize the fact that food is +chosen for flavor more than for ultimate benefit. It is one thing to say +that oatmeal is more nutritious than bread and coffee; it is quite another +to induce a man to give up the latter for the former! And yet the +distinguishing characteristic of man is that he can subjugate his +immediate impulses for his future benefit, or find a course that will +harmonize the two--take coffee with his oatmeal for instance, or find some +way to flavor it, perhaps with sugar. + +Probably no one flavor is so universally enjoyed as sweetness. "Sweeter +than the honey in the honey comb" is an ancient symbol of appreciation. +When the sugar bowl is empty how many things lose zest! Tea, coffee, +cocoa, breakfast cereals, fruit, might still be acceptable, but cake, pie, +and ice cream are unthinkable without sweetness; the soda fountain, the +bakery, and the candy shop bear further testimony to our love of sweets. +Four million tons of sugar a year for the American people--eighty-five +pounds apiece, nearly a quarter of a pound apiece daily--this is no +inconsiderable amount of flavoring! + +But is not sugar good food? Most assuredly. Three lumps of sugar would +furnish the extra energy needed to walk a mile; a quarter of a pound +represents about one-sixth of a man's daily fuel requirement. But one +baked potato would furnish the same energy as the three lumps of sugar; a +quarter of a pound of cornstarch would supply the same fuel as the quarter +pound of sugar. Nutritionally starch and sugar are interchangeable, the +advantage as far as digestion is concerned being with the starch rather +than the sugar. And yet we put sugar on starch! So much for instinct being +a guide to scientific food combinations! + +The problem of doing without sugar is primarily a problem of flavor--a +problem of finding something else which is sweet. Hence we turn our +cornstarch into glucose (make corn syrup, for example) outside the body +instead of inside it, so that we can taste the sweetness as it goes down. +The main trouble with this kind of sugar is that it is not sweet enough to +satisfy us and we are apt to use too much, thus endangering our digestions +by sheer concentration of what would be, in smaller quantities, most +wholesome. Once more we see that nutrition is largely a question of _how +much_; how much glucose or other sugar our stomachs can stand we find out +by experience; few stomachs can stand when empty the quantity represented +by a lollipop, and yet we frequently see children allowed to suck these +between meals. The same amount of sugar diluted with water, as in a glass +of lemonade, would do less harm; it might be combined with flour in a +cooky with more impunity; better yet, it might be made a part of a whole +meal, taking it in several dishes (sauce, dessert, etc.), or, if we must +have it as candy, at the end of the meal. Used in this way, the advantages +of sugar as a food may be had with relatively little disadvantage. + +Honey, "the distilled sweetness of the flower," commands a price +commensurate with the exquisiteness of its production, but is not quite as +easy of digestion as some other forms of sugar. Because of its intense +sweetness it may be combined with advantage with less sweet syrups, such +as corn syrup. The cook estimates that by measure it will take one and a +half times as much corn syrup as cane sugar to get the customary effects +in sweet dishes. By using one part of honey to three of corn syrup a +sweeter product is obtained, which is free from several of the +disadvantages of honey in cookery. + +Maple syrup and sugar are not only prized for their sweetness, due to the +presence of ordinary cane sugar, but for the delicate "maple" flavor so +difficult to duplicate. Nutritionally a tablespoon of maple sugar is +equivalent in fuel value to about four-fifths of a tablespoon of cane +sugar, while equal volumes of cane molasses, corn syrup, and maple syrup +are interchangeable as fuel, though not of equal sweetening power. + +Molasses is a less one-sided food than cane sugar or corn syrup. The +latter furnish nothing but fuel, and if used too freely not only disturb +digestion but tend to crowd out foods which yield mineral salts. Molasses +is quite rich in calcium, one tablespoonful yielding as much as five +ounces of milk, and is for this reason a better sweet for growing children +than ordinary sugar or corn syrup when the amount of milk which they can +have is limited, or when fruits and vegetables are hard to get. Molasses +ginger snaps make, therefore, an excellent sweet for children, much better +than candy, but of course to be eaten only at meal time. + +The aim of good home cooking should be to please the family with what they +ought to eat. The chef in a big hotel may have to prove the superiority of +his art over that of a rival chef, and vie with him in novelty and +elaboration, but the home cooking may be ever so simple provided the +result is a happy, well-nourished family. A chocolate layer cake that +takes two hours out of a day is no more nourishing than the same materials +served as poached eggs, bread and butter, and a cup of chocolate. It is +worth while to train a family to enjoy the flavor of simply prepared +foods, and to realize that the food is the thing which counts and not the +way it is dressed up. On the other hand, if one has to use a few food +materials over and over, as one must in many places when the money that +can be spent for food is very little, it is by slight changes in their +form and flavor that one keeps them from palling on the appetite. If one +has to use beans every day, it is a good thing to know a dozen different +ways of preparing beans. One may have the plain bean flavor, properly +toned up by a suitable amount of salt; the added flavor of onions, of +tomatoes, of fat pork, of molasses, or a combination of two or three. One +may have plain oatmeal for breakfast (the flavor developed by thorough +cooking, at least three or four hours in a double boiler or over night in +a fireless cooker); oatmeal flavored with apples in a pudding for dinner; +or oatmeal flavored with onions and tomatoes in a soup for supper; the +same food but quite different impressions on the palate. + +Herbs and spices have from time immemorial given flavor to man's diet. +"Leeks and garlic," "anise and cumin," "salt and pepper," "curry and bean +cheese," are built into the very life of a people. The more variety of +natural foods we have the less dependent we are upon such things. Our +modern cooks, confronted in the present crisis with restrictions in the +number of foods which they may use, may find in bay leaves, nutmeg, +allspice, and all their kind, ways of making acceptable the cereals which +make a diet economical, the peas and beans which replace at least a part +of the meat, and dried fruits and vegetables which save transportation of +fresh or canned goods. + +Tea and coffee are both flavors and stimulants. They are used literally by +thousands to give flavor to bread or rice. Dependence on a single flavor +is apt to result in a desire to have it stronger and stronger, and hence +less and less wholesome. This is a good reason for some variety of flavor; +better tea one meal and coffee another than the same one all the time. Too +freely used, and made too strong, tea and coffee may have a bad effect +upon the nervous as well as the digestive system. They should never be +given to children. It is better for adults to get their flavor from +something without such effects. Because the combination of bread and +coffee tastes good, one may be deceived into thinking himself well +nourished on a diet consisting of little else. And yet this is a very +inadequate diet for anybody, and disastrous to the normal development of +children. One must be on guard, then, lest one's desire for flavor be +satisfied without the body's real needs being met. + +The wise cook saves her best flavors for the foods which would be least +acceptable without them and does not add them to foods which are good +enough by themselves. The latter course marks the insidious beginning of +luxury. "Once give your family luxuries and you are lost as far as +satisfying them economically is concerned," remarked a clever housewife. +"Even a rat will not taste bread when bacon is nigh," observed a sage +physiologist. The demand for flavor grows and grows with pampering, till +nothing but humming-birds' tongues and miniature geese floating in a sea +of aspic jelly will satisfy the palate of him who eats solely for +flavor--who never knows the sauce of hunger, or the deliciousness of a +plain crust of bread. We must be on guard, saying, like the little +daughter of a classical professor, "If Scylla doesn't get me Charybdis +will." Flavor we must have, but not too much, not too many kinds at once, +and not applied indiscriminately to foods which need them and foods which +do not. The wise cook uses her arts to secure the proper nourishment of +the family and not for her fame as "a good cook." + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +ON BEING ECONOMICAL AND PATRIOTIC AT THE SAME TIME + + +Who does not sigh for the fairy table that comes at the pressing of a +button? It is invariably laden with the most tempting viands, satisfies +beyond words, and disappears when the meal is over, leaving behind no +problem of leftovers or planning for the next meal! No money, no work, no +thought, only sheer enjoyment. Alas, how different is the world of fact! +Even if we have plenty of money we cannot escape from the thought of food +today. There is imperative need for saving of food materials; at best +there will not be enough to go around, and all the world, ourselves +included, will suffer in proportion as we neglect the duty of food +conservation. To be economical in the use of food materials according to +the program of the Food Administration may, probably will, demand the +spending of more money, time, and thought upon food. If we have the money +and time to spend, well and good; but if we have not, how shall we do our +share in sending more "wheat, meat, sugar and fats to our soldiers, +sailors and allies"? + +Thousands of people had to practice strict economy before the war began. +They have no more money than they had then and the cost of food has +increased. Certainly the first duty of everyone is to secure sufficient +nourishment to avoid the undermining of health and strength which is sure +to follow inadequate food. But we must all remember that it is possible to +make a great many changes in diet without altering food value, and that +there are few diets which cannot be so rearranged as to give a better +nutritive return on the money spent than is usually secured by our +haphazard methods of planning meals. Saving of waste is commendable and +will go a long way, but this is a kind of passive service; loyal citizens +ought to be active participants in the food conservation movement, which +is a movement to distribute food in the way which shall promote the +efficiency of our allies and ourselves in this world upheaval. To do this +without increasing the cost of one's diet requires a careful study of the +situation. No one can give precise rules as to how it shall be done, but +perhaps a few suggestions as to the underlying principles will help in +determining a dietary plan which shall be economical and still in line +with the general policy. + +The same nutritive essentials must be supplied whether the cost of the +diet be much or little. A moderately active man needs some 3,000 calories +per day whether his activity be playing golf or working on a farm; whether +his board bill be $3.00 a day or $3.00 a week. In both cases there must be +suitable kinds and amounts of protein-bearing food, of other "building +materials," and those substances which directly or indirectly affect the +smooth running of the body machinery; nevertheless, these two diets, +closely alike in nutritive value, may be very dissimilar in their +superficial appearance. For instance, all the nutritive requirements may +be met in a ration composed of three food materials, as milk, whole wheat +bread, and apples; on the other hand, by one composed of canvas-back duck, +truffles, lettuce, celery, cranberries, white bread and butter, cream, +coffee, and perhaps a dozen other items. We love all the various +sensations that come from the mingling in a meal of food hot and cold, +moist and dry, crisp and soft, sweet and sour, exhibiting the artistic +touch as well as the homelier virtues; it is the sacrifice of pleasure of +the esthetic sort that food economy and to some extent food conservation +entail. + +The first step in food economy (aside from saving of waste) is to +emphasize the use of cereal foods. As much as one-fourth the food money +may be invested in grain products without nutritive disadvantage. But this +is not the last word on the subject, since cereal foods, while cheap, +differ among themselves in cost and somewhat in nutritive value. It is +possible to confine one's choice to some which contribute little besides +fuel to the diet, such as rice and white flour, or to include those which +are rich in other essentials, such as oatmeal. It is difficult to express +briefly this difference in foods in any concrete fashion, but recently a +method of grading or "scoring" foods has been introduced which may help to +make clearer the relationship between nutritive value and general economy. + +We cannot live exclusively upon foods which furnish nothing but fuel, +though fuel is the largest item in the diet and one which in an effort to +economize is apt to fall short; hence a food which furnishes nothing but +fuel will not have as high a "score" as a food which will at the same time +supply certain amounts of other essentials, such as protein, calcium +(lime), iron, and the like. By giving definite values to each of the +dietary essentials taken into consideration and comparing the yield of +these from different foods, we may have such a score as follows:[1] + + Grain Score value + products per pound + + White flour 1,257 + Graham flour 2,150 + Rye flour 1,459 + White bread 1,060 + Graham bread 1,525 + Cornmeal 1,360 + Oatmeal 2,465 + Cream of wheat 1,370 + Hominy 1,147 + Corn flakes 1,090 + + [1] For the method of calculation and further data see "The + Adequacy and Economy of Some City Dietaries" by H.C. Sherman + and L.H. Gillett, published by The New York Association for + Improving the Condition of the Poor, 105 East Twenty-second + Street, New York City, from which these figures are taken. + +By comparing the score with the price per pound we can easily see which +contributes most to the diet as a whole for the money expended. Thus, if +hominy and oatmeal cost the same, the oatmeal is more than twice as cheap +because we not only get a little more fuel from it but we also get +protein, calcium, iron, and phosphorus in considerably larger amounts; +that is, we shall need less of other foods with oatmeal than we shall with +hominy. This does not mean that hominy is not an excellent and a cheap +food, but it does mean that when the strictest economy must be practiced +it pays to buy oatmeal. The task of the housewife is to find out how much +she can make acceptable to her family; how much she can serve as breakfast +food, how much in muffins and bread, how much in soups and puddings. This +economy is strictly in harmony with the principles of food +conservation--saving of wheat, so hard to do without entirely, so easy to +dispense with in part. + +Cornmeal gives as good a nutritive return per pound as cream of wheat, so +that as long as the price of cornmeal is not higher than that of the wheat +product it is both good economy and good patriotism to use it as far as +one can. And, even if cornmeal should be dearer than wheat, one can save +money by increasing the proportion of cereals in the diet so as to be able +to be patriotic without increasing the food bill. + +A second measure which generally makes for food economy is to emphasize +the use of dried fruits and vegetables. The score of some of these foods +almost speaks for itself: + + Dried fruits Score value + and vegetables per pound + + Beans 3,350 + Peas 2,960 + Apples 955 + Dates 1,240 + Figs 1,782 + Prunes 1,135 + Raisins 1,550 + + Fresh fruits + and vegetables + + Beans 472 + Peas 475 + Apples 156 + Bananas 236 + Oranges 228 + Peaches 138 + Pears 228 + + +From the foregoing it is evident that, unless the cost of a pound of fresh +apples is less than one-fifth that of dried ones, the dried will be +cheaper; that if dates and raisins cost the same per pound they are +equally economical to buy. It may be noted, too, that the return on a +pound of dried fruit may be quite as good in its way as the return on a +pound of a grain product, but they will be equally cheap only when they +cost the same per pound in the market. Here, again, there is no +incompatibility between economy and conservation of special foods. Even in +the case of beans is this true, for, while certain kinds are wanted for +the army and navy, there are dozens of kinds of beans; one may count it as +part of one's service to find out where these can be obtained, how they +are best cooked and served. Soy beans commend themselves for their +nutritive value, but how many American housewives have made them a part of +their food program? How many have tried to buy them or asked their dealers +to secure them? + +A third step in the program of economy is the reduction of the amount of +meat consumed. In many American families at least one-third the food money +is spent for meat. That there are adequate substitutes which may be used +to reduce the amount of meat bought has been already shown. Saving of meat +is one of the most important planks in the food conservation program; so +here again there is no inevitable conflict between conservation and +economy. Some meat is desirable for flavor if it can possibly be afforded, +but no economically inclined person should set aside more than one-fourth +to one-fifth of the food money for it. How much one will get depends upon +the kind and cut selected. There is not so much difference in the +nutritive value as there is in the cost, as the following examples of +"meat scores" will show: + + Meat Score value + and fish per pound + + Beef, lean round 1,664 + Beef, medium fat rump 1,221 + Beef, porterhouse steak 1,609 + Veal, lean leg 1,539 + Lamb, medium fat leg 1,320 + Fowl 1,453 + Codfish, salt 1,710 + Codfish, fresh[2] 519 + Salmon, canned 1,074 + + [2] The low score of fresh cod is due chiefly to the absence + of fat and the presence of water. + +The great value of milk in the diet has already been discussed. The +"score" of milk is about the same as that for sugar (milk, 761; sugar, +725); hence, if sugar is ten cents a pound and milk eighteen-cents a quart +(about nine cents per pound), milk is cheaper than sugar. Yet there are +people cutting down their milk supply when the cost is only thirteen or +fourteen cents per quart on the ground that milk is too expensive! The +economical housewife should have no compunctions in spending from +one-fifth to one-fourth of her food money for this almost indispensable +food. Whether the free use of milk will be good food conservation as well +as good economy depends upon the supply. If there is not enough to go +around, babies and the poor should have the first claim upon it and the +rest of the world should try to get along with something less economical. + +A pound of eggs (eight or nine eggs) gives about the same nutritive return +as a pound of medium fat beef, but to be as cheap as beef at thirty cents +a pound, eggs must not cost over forty-five cents a dozen. Eggs must be +counted among the expensive foods, to be used very sparingly indeed in the +economical diet. Nevertheless the use of eggs as a means of saving meat is +a rational food conservation movement, to be encouraged where means +permit. + +The saving of sugar, while a necessary conservation measure, is contrary +to general food economy, since sugar is a comparatively cheap fuel food +and has the great additional value of popularity. Sugar substitutes are +not all as cheap as sugar by any means, but molasses, on account of its +large amount of mineral salts, especially of calcium, has a score value of +2,315 as against 725 for granulated sugar, and may be regarded with favor +by those both economically and patriotically inclined. + +In the case of fats, practical economy consists in paying for fuel value +and not for flavor. The score values for butter, lard, olive oil, and +cottonseed oil are about the same. The cheapest fat is the one whose face +value per pound (or market cost) is the lowest. Fats are not as cheap as +milk and cereals if they cost over ten cents per pound. The best way to +economize is by saving the fat bought with meat, using other fats without +much flavor, and cutting the total fat in the diet to a very small amount, +not over two ounces per person per day. This is also good food +conservation, since fats are almost invaluable in rationing an army, and +those with decidedly agreeable flavor are needed to make a limited diet +palatable. + +No program either of economy or food conservation can cater to individual +likes and dislikes in the same way that an unrestricted choice of food +can. If one does not like cereals it is hard to consume them just to save +money, especially to the extent of ten to fifteen ounces of grain products +in a day. Yet one might as well recognize that in this direction the +lowering of the cost of the diet inevitably lies. If one does not like +corn, it is hard to substitute corn bread for wheat bread. But one might +as well open one's mind to the fact that the only way to put off the day +when there will be no white bread to eat is to begin eating cornmeal now. +Most of us want to eat our cake and keep it too--to enjoy our food and not +pay for our pleasure; to do our duty towards our country and not feel any +personal inconvenience. But the magic table of the fairy tale is not for a +nation at war; food is not going to come at the pressing of a button +during this conflict. If we are to escape bankruptcy and win the war we +must eat to be nourished and not to be entertained. + + + + +APPENDIX + +SOME WAR TIME RECIPES + + +The following recipes illustrate some of the practical applications of the +principles discussed in the foregoing pages. They have been selected from +various publications, a list of which is given below. The numbers +following the titles of the recipes correspond with the numbers of the +publications in this list. + +1. Canned Salmon: Cheaper than Meats and Why, U.S. Department of Commerce, +Bureau of Fisheries, Economic Circular No. 11 + +2. Cheese and its Economical Use in the Home, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 487 + +3. Economical Diet and Cookery in Time of Emergency, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Technical Education Bulletin No. 30 4. Food, Bulletin +of the Life Extension Institute, 25 West 45th Street, New York City + +5. Honey and its Uses in the Home, U. S. Department of Agriculture, +Farmers' Bulletin No. 653 + +6. How to Select Food: Foods Rich in Protein, U.S. Department of +Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 824 + +7. Meat Substitutes, Connecticut Agricultural College, Emergency Food +Series, No. 10 + +8. Ninety Tested, Palatable and Economic Recipes, Teachers College, +Columbia University, Technical Educational Bulletin No. 34 + +9. Recipes of New York City Food Aid Committee, 280 Madison Avenue, New +York City + +10. Recipes in The Farmer's Wife, St. Paul, Minnesota, September, 1917 + +11. Some Sugar Saving Sweets for Every Day, Teachers College, Columbia +University, Teachers College Record, November, 1917 + +12. War Economy in Food, Bulletin of the United States Food Administration + +13. Waste of Meat in the Home, Cornell Reading Course for the Farm Home, +Lesson 109 + + + + +BREAD AND MUFFINS + + + +Corn Meal and Wheat Bread (9) + + Corn meal, 1 cup + Wheat flour, 2 cups + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup, 1 tablespoon + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Cold water, 1-1/4 cups + Lukewarm water, 1/4 cup + Yeast, 1 cake + +Pour cold water gradually over corn meal and salt. Cook over water for 20 +minutes. Add fat and syrup. Allow to cool to room temperature. Add yeast +which has been softened in the lukewarm water. Add flour gradually, +stirring or kneading thoroughly after each addition of flour. Knead +lightly for 10 or 15 minutes. Shape into a loaf. Let rise until double in +bulk. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380 deg.) for about an hour. (The +amount of corn meal may be reduced if one desires a loaf with the +characteristics of wheat bread.) + + + +Corn Meal and Rye Bread (9) + + Lukewarm water, 2 cups + Yeast, 1 cake + Salt, 1/2 tablespoon + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Rye flour, 1 cup + Corn meal, 1 cup + Flour, 3 cups + +Soften yeast cake in water, add remaining ingredients, and mix thoroughly. +Let rise, shape, let rise again and bake. + + + +Sour Milk Corn Bread (8) + + Corn meal, 1 pint + Soda, 3/4 teaspoon + Baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon + Sour milk, 1 pint + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Lard (melted), 1 1/2 tablespoons + +Slightly beat the egg, add milk, salt, and soda. Stir in the meal. Beat +well. Add melted lard and baking powder. Bake in hot greased pan. Cut in +squares and serve. Do not have batter too stiff. + + + +Eggless Corn Muffins (8) + + Corn meal, 1 cup + Pastry flour (sifted), 1/2 cup + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Melted butter, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Milk, 1 cup + +Mix dry ingredients and add milk and melted butter. Put in greased muffin +pan and bake 30 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +Oat Bread (4) + + Boiling water, 2 cups + Salt, 1/2 tablespoon + 1/2 yeast cake, dissolved in 1/2 cup lukewarm water + Rolled oats (dry), 1 cup + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Flour, 4-1/2 cups + +Add boiling water to the rolled oats, stir well and let stand for one +hour. Add molasses, salt, fat, dissolved yeast cake, and flour; let the +dough rise to double its bulk, beat well, and turn into greased bread +pans, let rise the second time, and bake about one hour in a moderate +oven. + + + +Oatmeal Muffins (8) + + Cooked oatmeal, 1 cup + Flour, 1-1/2 cups + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Baking powder, 4 teaspoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Milk, 1/2 cup + Egg, 1 + Melted butterine, 2 tablespoons + +Mix and sift flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add the egg well +beaten and one-half the milk. Mix the remainder of the milk with the +cereal, and beat in thoroughly. Then add the butter. Bake in buttered +muffin or gem tins about 30 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +War Time Boston Brown Bread + + Rye meal, 1 cup + Corn meal, 1 cup + Finely ground oatmeal, 1 cup + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Soda, 3/4 teaspoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Molasses, 1 cup + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + +Mix and sift dry ingredients, add molasses and milk, stir until well +mixed, turn into a well-greased mold, and steam three and one-half hours. +The cover should be greased before being placed on mold. The mold should +never be filled more than two-thirds full. A one-pound baking powder box +makes the most attractive shaped loaf for steaming; place mold on a trivet +in kettle containing boiling water, allowing water to come half-way up +around mold; cover closely and steam, adding as needed more boiling water. +One cup chopped peanuts and 1 cup of cut dates may be added. + + + +Rice Bread (10) + + Milk, 1/2 cup + Sugar, 6 tablespoons + Fat, 4 tablespoons + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Compressed yeast, 1/2 cake, softened in 1/4 cup liquid + Boiled rice, 7 cups + Flour, 8 cups + +This proportion makes two loaves of bread. + +Scald the milk with sugar, salt, and fat. Let cool until lukewarm and pour +over the boiled rice. Add yeast which has been softened in one-quarter +cupful warm water. Stir in flour and knead. Let rise until double its +bulk. Knead again and put into pans. Let rise until light and bake 50 +minutes to one hour in a moderate oven. + +_The rice should be boiled in a large quantity of boiling water_, in +order to insure a dry rice. At least eight or ten times as much water as +rice should be used. + + + +Eggless Rye Muffins (8) + + Rye flour, 2 cups + Baking powder, 4 teaspoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Sugar, 4 teaspoons + Milk, 1 cup + Melted butter or other fat, 1 tablespoon + +Mix and sift the dry ingredients; add the milk and melted fat. Mix +quickly, do not beat. Bake in greased muffin pans 20 minutes in a hot +oven. + + + +Rye Corn Meal Muffins (9) + + Corn meal, 1/2 cup + Rye flour, 1 cup + Baking powder, 3 teaspoons + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Melted butter, 1 tablespoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Milk, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + +Mix and sift dry ingredients, beat egg, add to it milk and molasses, then +stir liquid mixture into dry ingredients. Do not beat. Place in +well-greased muffin tins and bake in moderate oven 25 to 30 minutes. + + + +Rye Rolls (9) + + Milk, 1 cup + Water, 1 cup + Fat, 3 tablespoons + Sugar, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 2 teaspoons + Yeast cakes, 2 + Water, 6 tablespoons + Rye flour, 4 cups + White flour, 4 cups + +Scald the milk with the salt, sugar, and fat. Soften the yeast in the six +tablespoonfuls of water. + +Cool the milk by adding the rest of the water cold, stir in the yeast and +flour, and knead. Let rise until double in bulk. Knead again and shape +into rolls. Let rise until very light and bake. + + + + +CAKE AND COOKIES + + + +Apple Sauce Cake (4) + + Sugar, 1 cup + Butter, 2 tablespoons + Apple sauce, 1 cup + Flour, 2 cups + Raisins, 2/3 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/2 teaspoon + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + +Sift together the soda, spices, salt, and flour. Cream the butter, add +sugar, apple sauce, dry ingredients, and seeded raisins. Bake in a +moderate oven. + + + +Buckwheat Cookies (8) + + Butterine, 1/2 cup + Sugar, 1 cup + Eggs, 2 + Clove, 1/2 teaspoon + Buckwheat, 1 3/4 cups + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + +Beat the eggs, add the sugar and melted butter, and beat until thoroughly +mixed. Sift the buckwheat, spices, and salt together and add very slowly. +Mix well; roll on a floured board one-eighth to one-sixteenth inch thick. +Cut the cookies and bake on a greased baking sheet in a moderate oven +about 10 minutes. + + + +Honey Bran Cookies (5) + + Bran, 3 cups + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/4 teaspoon + Honey, 1/2 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Melted butter, 1/2 cup + + +Soft Honey Cake (5) + + Butter, 1/2 cup + Honey, 1 cup + Egg, 1 + Sour milk, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Flour, 4 cups + +Rub the butter and honey together; add the egg well beaten, then the sour +milk and the flour sifted with the soda and spices. Bake in a shallow pan. + + + +Molasses Cakes (4) + + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Fat, 1/2 cup + Molasses, 1 cup + Ginger, 1 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Flour, 2 1/2 cups + Soda, 2 teaspoons + Hot water, 1 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + +Sift together the salt, sugar, flour, soda, and spices. Melt butter in hot +water, add molasses, egg well beaten, and dry ingredients. Mix well. Bake +in small cup cake tins in a moderate oven for about 25 minutes. + + + +Molasses Cookies (11) + + Flour, 2-3/4 cups + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Ginger, 1 tablespoon + Molasses, 1 cup + Hot water, 1 tablespoon + Hardened vegetable fat, 1/4 cup + +Sift together the flour, salt, soda, and ginger. Melt fat; add hot water +and molasses; stir this liquid gradually into the dry ingredients. Chill. +Roll on floured board to one-eighth inch thickness. Cut. Bake about 10 +minutes in a moderate oven (360-380 deg. F.). + + + +Nut Molasses Bars (9) + + Oleomargarine, 1/4 cup + Hardened vegetable fat, 1/4 cup + Boiling water, 1/4 cup + Brown sugar, 1/2 cup + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Soda, 1 teaspoon + Flour, 3-2/3 cups + Ginger, 1/3 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/8 teaspoon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Cocoanut, 1/2 cup + English walnuts, 1/2 cup + +Pour boiling water over fat; add sugar and molasses; add flour, soda, +spices, and salt sifted together. Chill. Roll one-eighth inch thick. Cut +in strips about three and a half by one inch. Sprinkle with cocoanut and +English walnuts cut in small pieces. + +Bake about 10 minutes in a moderate oven. + + + +Oatmeal Cookies (4) + + Egg, 1 + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Water, 1/4 cup + Flour, 2 cups + Fine oatmeal, 1/2 cup + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Raisins, 1 cup + Melted fat, 5 tablespoons + +Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the oatmeal. Beat +the egg add sugar, water, and milk, dry ingredients mixed together, +raisins, and melted fat. Drop from spoon on greased baking sheet and bake +in moderate oven. + + + +Oatmeal Macaroons (12) + + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup, 3/8 cup + Sugar, 2 tablespoons + Egg, 1 + Almond extract if desired, 2 teaspoons + Oatmeal, 1 1/2 cups + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon + Flour, 1-1/2 tablespoons + +Combine the melted fat and sugar and syrup, add the beaten egg and stir in +the other ingredients. Drop from a teaspoon on greased baking sheets or +pans and bake in a moderate oven about 15 minutes. + + + +Potato Drop Cookies (13) + + Hot mashed potatoes, 1-1/2 cups + Sugar, 1-1/4 cups + Beef or mutton fat, 1 cup + Flour, 1-3/4 cups + Baking powder, 2 teaspoons + Cinnamon, 1 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/2 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon + Raisins, chopped, 1/2 cup + Nuts, chopped, 1/4 cup + +Combine the ingredients in the order given and drop the mixture by +spoonfuls on a slightly greased tin. Bake the cookies in a moderate oven. + + + +Spice Cake (9) + + Hardened vegetable fat, 3-1/2 tablespoons + Sugar, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + Corn syrup, 1/4 cup + Milk, 1/4 cup + Flour, 1 cup (plus 1-1/2 tablespoons) + Baking powder, 1-1/4 teaspoons + Chopped citron, 2 tablespoons + Raisins, cut in half, 1/2 cup + Cinnamon, 3/4 teaspoon + Clove, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/8 teaspoon + +Cream fat; add sugar gradually, syrup, egg well beaten; mix and sift dry +ingredients; add alternately with milk to first mixture. Add raisins +(which have been rolled in a little of the flour), mixing them through the +cake thoroughly. + +Bake about 30 minutes in a moderate oven (about 380 deg. F.). + + + + +JAMS AND SANDWICH FILLINGS + + + +Banana and Nut Paste for Sandwiches (11) + + Banana, 1 + Shelled peanuts, 1/4 cup + +Mix the banana with the shelled peanuts, which have been crushed. Salt to +taste. Use as a filling for sandwiches. + + + +Carrot Marmalade (3) + + Carrots, 3 pounds + Sugar, 3 pounds + Lemon, 1 (juice and grated rind) + Oranges, 2 (juice and grated rind) + +Wash, scrape, and steam carrots until soft; chop fine and mix with fruit +and sugar. Cook gently one hour. + + + +Date and Cranberry Marmalade (3) + + Cranberries, 1 quart + Dates, stoned, 1 pound + Water, 1 pint + Brown sugar, 2 cups + +Simmer together for 20 minutes cranberries, dates, and water; put through +a sieve; add sugar and cook 15 minutes longer. + + + +Dried Apricot Conserve (11) + + Dried apricots, 1/2 pound (1-2/3 cups) + Cold water, 2 cups + Raisins, 1 cup + Juice of 1 lemon + Whole orange, 1 + Nuts, 1/2 cup + Corn syrup (light), 1 cup + +Soak apricots over night in cold water. When soaked add raisins, lemon +juice, orange sliced very thin, with slices cut in small pieces, and corn +syrup. Bring to boiling point and simmer for about one and one-quarter +hours. Add nuts 15 minutes before taking from fire. + + + +Fruit and Peanut Butter (for Sandwiches) (11) + + Dates, 1/4 cup + Figs, 1/4 cup + Peanut butter, 1/2 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Lemon juice, 1-1/2 tablespoons + Raisins, 1/4 cup + Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons + +Wash figs, raisins, and dates, and put through food chopper. Add salt, +peanut butter, lemon juice, and corn syrup, and mix well. + + + +Plum Conserve (without sugar) (11) + + + Pitted plums, 1 pound (2 dozen plums) + Raisins, 1/3 pound + Cold water, 1/2 cup + Walnuts, 1/8 pound (1/4 cup) + Oranges, 2 + Corn syrup, 1/3 cup + +Wash and cut plums in pieces: add chopped raisins, orange pulp and peel, +cut very fine; corn syrup and water; boil until it is of the consistency +of marmalade (about one and one-half hours of slow cooking). Add walnuts +five minutes before removing from fire. + + + + +SUBSTANTIAL HOT DISHES + + + +Baked Barley (4) + + Barley, 1/2 cup + Boiling water, 3 cups + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Left over gravy, 3/4 cup + +Soak barley over night. Drain. Cook in boiling salted water until tender. +Drain. Add left over gravy and bake for 20 minutes in a moderate oven. If +one has a meat bone, or left over bits of meat, these may be boiled with +the barley to give it flavor. + + + +Beef and Bean Stew (6) + + Beef, lower round, 1 pound + Red kidney beans, 1 cup + Onion, 1 + Canned tomatoes, 1 cup, or 2 or 3 fresh tomatoes + Salt pork, 2 ounces + +Wash the beans and soak them over night. Cut the pork into small pieces +and try out the fat. Cut the beef into small pieces and brown it in the +pork fat, then add the vegetables with water enough to cover. Cook just +below the boiling point for about three hours. + + + +Cheese Fondue (2) + + Milk (hot), 1-1/3 cups + Bread crumbs, 1-1/3 cups + Butter, 1 tablespoon + Eggs, 4 + Cheese, 1/3 pound (1-1/3 cups grated or 1 cup cut in pieces) + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + +Mix the water, bread crumbs, salt, and cheese; add the yolks thoroughly +beaten; into this mixture cut and fold the whites of eggs beaten until +stiff. Pour into a buttered dish and cook 30 minutes in a moderate oven. +Serve at once. + + + +Corned Beef Hash with Vegetables (4) + + Corned beef (cold, left over), 1-1/2 cups + Dice potatoes (cooked), 2-1/4 cups + Turnips (cooked), 1 cup + Onion, chopped fine, 1 small + Carrots (cooked), 1/2 cup + Water, 3/4 cup + Fat, 3 tablespoons + +Cut the meat into small pieces. Add cooked vegetables cut into small +cubes, onion and water. Put fat into hot frying pan, add hash and cook for +about 20 minutes, allowing the hash to brown. Other left over meat may be +added to corned beef, or used instead of corned beef. + + + +Corn Meal Scrapple (3) + + Shin of beef, 2 pounds + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Onion, 1 medium + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + Cold water, 2 quarts + Corn meal, 1 cup + +Cook onion thinly sliced in beef marrow or suet. Add to water with meat +and bone and cook until meat is tender. Let cool, skim off fat, and remove +bone. To liquid remaining, add enough water to make one quart. Add corn +meal and salt and cook one hour. Turn into a mold, cool, cut in slices, +and fry in pork fat until brown. Serve with or without gravy. + + + +Corn Chowder (4) + + Corn, 1/4 can + Salt pork, 1-1/2 inch cube + Potato cut in slices, 1 medium + Milk, 2 cups + Boiling water, 1-1/2 cups + Butter, 2 tablespoons + Sliced onion, 1/8 + Sugar, 1/4 teaspoon + Salt and pepper + +Cut the pork into small pieces and try it out. Add the onion and cook for +about five minutes. Strain the fat into a stew pan. Cook the potatoes for +about five minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, and add the potatoes to +the fat. Add the boiling water and cook until the potatoes are soft. Then +add corn and milk and heat to the boiling point. Add the salt, pepper, +sugar, and butter. Serve immediately after adding butter. + + + +Cottage Cheese and Nut Loaf (12) + + Cottage cheese, 1 cup + Nut meats (use those locally grown), 1 cup + Stale bread crumbs, 1 cup + Juice of 1/2 lemon + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/4 teaspoon + Chopped onion, 2 tablespoons + Oleomargarine, meat drippings or vegetable oils, 1 tablespoon + +Mix the cheese, ground nuts, crumbs, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Cook +the onion in the fat and a little water until tender. Add to the first +mixture the onion and sufficient water or meat stock to moisten. Mix well, +pour into a baking dish, and brown in the oven. + + + +Dried Fish Chowder (7) + + Salt fish, 1/2 pound + Potatoes, cut in small pieces, 4 cups + Salt pork, 2 ounces + Small onion, chopped, 1 + Skim milk, 4 cups + Crackers, 4 ounces + +Salt codfish, smoked halibut, or other dried fish may be used in this +chowder. Pick over and shred the fish, holding it under lukewarm water. +Let it soak while the other ingredients of the dish are being prepared. +Cut the pork into small pieces and fry it with the onion until both are a +delicate brown; add the potatoes, cover with water, and cook until the +potatoes are soft. Add the milk and fish and reheat. Salt, if necessary. +It is well to allow the crackers to soak in the milk while the potatoes +are being cooked, then remove them, and finally add to the chowder just +before serving. + + + +Gevech (Roumanian Recipe) (9) + + Shredded cabbage, 1-1/4 cups + Chopped onion, 1/4 cup + Rice, 1/4 cup + Diced potatoes, 3/4 cup + 1/2 green pepper cut into strips + Fish, 3/4 pound + Canned tomato, 3/4 cup + Water, 3 tablespoons + Salt, 3/4 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/4 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + +Parboil cabbage, onion, rice, potatoes, and green pepper together in +salted water for 20 minutes. Drain. Clean fish, cut into small pieces, and +mix with parboiled vegetables, canned tomatoes, water, and seasonings. +Bake in a moderate oven for about 40 minutes. Baste occasionally while +cooking. Serve with a garnish of sliced lemon. + + + +Kidney Bean Stew (3) + + Kidney beans, 1 cup + Onion, 1 small + Rice, 2 tablespoons + Canned tomatoes, 2 cups + Fat or drippings, 2 tablespoons + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt and pepper to taste + +Soak beans over night in cold water to cover. In the morning place beans +over fire, adding water to cover if necessary. Add onion, rice and +tomatoes and cook slowly until beans are soft. If too thick, add water. +Mix flour and fat, and use to thicken stew. + + + +Baked Oatmeal with Cheese (9) + + Cooked oatmeal, 4 cups + Grated cheese, 1 cup + Salt and pepper + Soft bread crumbs, 1/4 cup + Fat, 1 teaspoon + +Put into an oiled baking dish a layer of left over oatmeal, then a +sprinkling of grated cheese, pepper and salt, another layer of oatmeal, +then cheese and seasonings; continue until the dish is full. Melt the fat +and mix with this the bread crumbs. Sprinkle over the top of the dish. +Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs are golden brown. + + + +Green Pea Loaf with White Sauce (9) + + Dried green peas, 1 cup + Cold water, 4 cups + Boiling water, 2 quarts + Soft, stale bread crumbs, 1-1/2 cups + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/8 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/2 teaspoon + Grated onion, 1/2 teaspoon + Egg, 1 + Fat, 3 tablespoons + +Soak peas in cold water over night. Cook in boiling water until soft. Rub +through a sieve. To one cup of this pea pulp add bread crumbs, milk, +seasoning, egg (slightly beaten), and melted fat. Turn mixture into a +small, oiled bread pan. Set pan into a second pan, containing water. Bake +mixture 40 minutes or until firm. Remove loaf from pan. Serve with white +sauce. One-half cup of cheese may be added to one and one-half cups of the +sauce. + + + +Mock Sausage (8) + + Lima beans, dried, 1/2 cup + Bread crumbs, 1/3 cup + Butter, 3 tablespoons + Egg, 1 + Pepper, few grains + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Sage, 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon + +Pick over and wash beans, cover with water, and let soak over night. +Drain; cook in boiling salted water until tender, about one and one-half +hours. Force through a strainer, add remaining ingredients. Shape into +form of sausages, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again. Saute in fat +until brown. It requires about two-thirds cup crumbs and one-half egg for +dipping sausage. May be garnished with fried apples. + + + +Baked Soy or Togo Beans (6) + +Soy beans, known in the retail market as togo beans, resemble navy beans +in some ways. They contain, however, a considerable amount of fat. For +this reason neither pork nor other fat is used in cooking them unless it +is wanted for flavor. They are considerably richer in protein also. + +Wash and pick over one quart of soy beans. Cover with boiling water, boil +for 10 minutes, and soak over night in the same water. In the morning pour +off and save the water. Pour cold water over the beans and rub them +between the hands to remove the skins, which will float off in the water. +Removing the skins in this way takes only two or three minutes and greatly +improves the quality of the dish. If a few skins are left on, they will do +no harm, unless the dish is being prepared for a person of poor digestion. +Drain the beans, pour over them the water in which they were soaked, and +cook until tender at a temperature just below the boiling point. Pour off +the water, put the beans into a bean pot, cover with cold water, add one +and one-half tablespoonfuls of salt, and bake four or five hours in a +covered dish. Remove the cover and bake one hour more. + + + +Peanut Loaf (10) + + Chopped peanuts, 1 cup + Bread crumbs, 2 cups + Egg, 1 + Milk, 1 cup + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Paprika, 1/4 teaspoon + Melted fat, 1 tablespoon + +Mix dry ingredients, add beaten egg and milk. Put into a greased pan, pour +the melted fat on top, bake. Turn on a hot platter and serve with sauce. + + +Sauce for Loaf + + Hot water, 1 cup + Beef cube, 1 + Juice 1 lemon + Fat, 2 tablespoons + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/8 teaspoon + Few grains nutmeg + +Melt fat, add flour with seasoning, add hot water in which beef cube has +been dissolved. Just before serving add lemon juice. + +This nut loaf with its accompanying sauce is a highly nutritious dish and +is excellent for lunch or supper. Serve no meat or potatoes with it. + + + +Peanut Butter Bean Loaf (10) + + Peanut butter, 1/2 cup + Cooked beans, 1 cup + Soft bread crumbs (toasted), 1 cup + Milk, 1 cup + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Pepper, 1/2 teaspoon + +The beans should be soaked over night and cooked in fresh water until +tender. Press through a sieve, add other ingredients, mix well. Shape into +a loaf, place in pan, and bake about two hours, basting with melted fat +and hot water. + + + +Peanut Butter Cream Soup (10) + + Milk, 1 quart + Onion (grated), 1 small + Flour, 1 tablespoon + Melted fat, 1 tablespoon + Peanut butter, 1 cup + Bay leaf, 1 + Celery (chopped) 3 stalks + Celery salt, 1 saltspoon + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + A little white pepper + Dash of paprika + +Heat milk in a double boiler, add peanut butter, onion, bay leaf, chopped +celery, and other seasoning. While the milk is heating, melt fat in a +separate sauce pan, stirring in flour as for cream sauce. When smooth add +the hot milk, after straining through a sieve. Serve at once with croutons +or tiny squares of bread browned till crisp. + + + +Peanut Fondue (8) + + Peanuts, shelled, 1 cup + Bread crumbs (soft), 1 cup + Milk, 1-2/3 cups + Egg, 1 + Salt, 1-1/2 teaspoons + Cayenne + +Grind peanuts in a meat grinder. Mix all ingredients except the white of +the egg. Beat the egg white stiff and fold in. Turn into a buttered +pudding dish and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 35 minutes. + + + +Peanut Soup (10) + + Blanched shelled peanuts, 2 cups + Onion, 1/4 cup + Celery, 1/4 cup + Carrot, 1/4 cup + Water, 2-1/2 cups + Fat, 1/4 cup + Flour, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Paprika, 1/2 teaspoon + Milk, 2 cups + +Chop and crush the nuts until very fine; add the vegetables and water; +simmer 20 minutes. Make a white sauce of the other ingredients, mix the +two mixtures thoroughly and serve. + + + +Potato Soup with Carrots (4) + + Potatoes, 3 medium + Water, 2 cups + Flour, 4 tablespoons + Soup greens + Onion, 2 slices + Sprigs of parsley + Milk, 1-1/2 cups + Carrot, 1 + Fat, 1-1/2 tablespoons + Salt and pepper + Stalk of celery + +Wash and pare potatoes. Cook in boiling salted water until they are soft. +Rub through colander. Use water in which potatoes were cooked to make up +the two cups of water for the soup. Cook carrot cut in cubes in boiling +water until soft; drain. Scald milk with onion, celery, and parsley. Add +milk and water to potatoes. Melt fat in sauce pan, add flour, and cook for +three minutes. Slowly add soup, stirring constantly. Boil for one minute, +season with salt and pepper. Add cubes of carrots and serve. + + + +Salmon en Casserole (1) + +Cook one cup of rice. When cold line baking dish. Take one can of salmon +and flake. Beat two eggs, one-third cup of milk, one tablespoon of butter, +pinch of salt, dash of paprika. Stir into the salmon lightly, cover +lightly with rice. Steam one hour, serve with white sauce. (This may also +be made with barley instead of rice.) + + + +Scalloped Salmon (1) + + Salmon, 1 can + Egg, 1 + Milk, 1 pint + Flour, 2 rounding tablespoons + Butter, 1-1/2 tablespoons + +Put the milk on stove in double boiler, keeping out one-half cup. Mix +butter and flour to a smooth paste, and add the egg well beaten, then the +one-half cup of cold milk. Mix well and then stir into the milk, which +should be scalding. Stir until smooth and thick like gravy. Season with +salt and pepper and set aside to cool. Butter a baking dish and fill with +alternate layers of flaked salmon and the cream dressing. The top layer +should be of the dressing. Sprinkle with cracker crumbs and bake one-half +hour in moderate oven. + + + +Salmon Loaf (1) + + Salmon, 1 small can + Egg, 1 + Cracker crumbs, 1 cup + Sweet milk, 2 tablespoons + Paprika + Nutmeg + Salt + +Remove bones from salmon; break into small pieces, add well beaten egg, +seasoning, and cracker crumbs; bake in a well buttered dish for 15 +minutes; serve hot for lunch. + + + +Tamale Pie (12) + + Corn meal, 2 cups + Salt, 2 1/2 teaspoons + Boiling water, 6 cups + Onion, 1 + Fat, 1 tablespoon + Hamburger steak, 1 pound + Tomatoes, 2 cups + Cayenne pepper, 1/2 teaspoon, + or + Chopped sweet pepper, 1 small + Salt, 1 teaspoon + +Make a mush by stirring the corn meal and one and one-half teaspoons salt +into boiling water. Cook in a double boiler or over water for 45 minutes. +Brown the onion in the fat, add the Hamburger steak, and stir until the +red color disappears. Add the tomatoes, pepper, and salt. Grease a +baking-dish, put in a layer of corn meal mush, add the seasoned meat, and +cover with mush. Bake 30 minutes. Serves six. + + + +Turkish Pilaf (3) + + Washed rice, 1 cup + Raw lean beef or lamb, 1 pound + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Boiling water, 2 cups + Small onion or garlic, 2 cloves + Tomatoes, 2 cups + Olive oil or any fat, 2 tablespoons + +Fry onion cut in small pieces or the garlic in the fat until slightly +brown; add rice, seasonings, water, tomatoes, meat, and cook in a covered +dish until the rice is soft. The meat may be omitted, the rice cooked in +the tomatoes and water, and the whole covered with grated cheese and baked +until cheese is melted. + + + +Vegetable Stew + + Beef, 1/2 pound + Mutton, 1/2 pound + Carrots, diced, 1/2 cup + Potatoes, diced, 2 cups + Tomatoes, canned, 3/4 cup + Fat, 2 tablespoons + Carrot, 1 whole + Onion, sliced, 3 tablespoons + Cabbage, chopped, 1 cup + Flour, 1/4 cup + Bay leaf, 1/2 leaf + Cloves, 6 + Peppercorns, 6 + Parsley, chopped, 2 tablespoons + Salt, 2 teaspoons + Thyme, 1 sprig + Water, 7 cups + +Cut meat in small pieces, brown with onion in fat, add water, one carrot +in which cloves have been imbedded, and other vegetables. Tie bay leaf, +thyme, and peppercorns together in a piece of cheesecloth and cook with +stew about two hours (till vegetables are done). Remove bag of seasonings, +thicken stew with flour. Add more salt if needed. + + + + +PUDDINGS + + + +Apricot Tapioca Pudding (4) + + Apricots, 6 + Sugar, 1/2 cup + Pearl tapioca, 1 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Boiling water, 3 cups + +Cover the tapioca with cold water and soak for one hour. Drain off the +cold water, add the boiling water and salt, and cook over water (in a +double boiler if you have one) until the tapioca is transparent, and no +hard center portion remains. This will require about 30 minutes. Place the +apricots in a buttered baking dish. Add sugar to the tapioca, pour this +over the apricots, add apricot juice, and bake in a moderate oven for +about 20 minutes. Cool and serve. If dried apricots are to be used, they +should be soaked over night or several hours in cold water sufficient to +cover them. Cook in the water in which they have soaked until they are +tender. + + + +Cereal Pudding (8) + + Left over cereal, 3-1/2 cups + Apple sauce, 1/2 cup or + Apple, 1 + Sugar, 1 tablespoon + Butter, 1 tablespoon + Bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons + +Put a layer of cereal in the bottom of a buttered baking dish, then a +layer of apples or sauce, then sugar if the sauce has not been sweetened. +Then put in another layer of cereal, cover with buttered crumbs. Bake 30 +minutes if it has apple sauce in it, one hour if raw apples are used. +Serve with cream. + + + +Cereal Date Pudding (11) + + Cereal (half corn meal and half farina), 3/4 cup + Boiling water, 3 cups + Salt, 3/4 teaspoon + Chopped dates, 1 cup + Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon + Corn syrup (light), 1/2 cup + Egg, 1 + +Stir the cereal mixture gradually into the boiling water, to which the +salt has been added. Cook directly over the flame for about five minutes, +stirring constantly, and then cook over water for one and one-half hours. +Add oleomargarine, syrup, egg, well beaten, and chopped dates. Turn into a +greased baking dish and bake for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven +(360-390 deg. F.). + + + +Chocolate Bread Pudding (11) + + Bread, broken in small pieces, 2 1/2 cups + Corn syrup (dark), 1/2 cup + Brown sugar, 1/4 cup + Egg, 1 + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Chocolate, 2 squares + Milk, 1 1/2 cups + Hot water, 1 1/2 cups + Vanilla, 3/4 teaspoon + +Soak bread in milk; add syrup, brown sugar, egg, well beaten, and salt. +Melt chocolate in water; add gradually to bread mixture. Add vanilla. Bake +in custard cups, set in hot water, in a moderate oven. + + + +Eggless Steamed Pudding (11) + + Flour, 1 2/3 cups + Soda, 1/2 teaspoon + Salt, 1/4 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/4 teaspoon + Allspice, 1/4 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoon + Hardened vegetable fat, 3 tablespoons + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Milk, 1/2 cup + Raisins (seeded and cut in pieces), 1 cup + +Sift together the flour, soda, salt, and spices; add the raisins. To milk +add molasses and melted fat; add liquid mixture gradually to dry +ingredients. Stir thoroughly. Turn into greased molds, filling them a +little over half full; cover and steam for about two and one-half hours. +Serve with pudding sauce or milk. (Baking powder cans are satisfactory +molds for steamed puddings.) + + + +Honey Pudding (5) + + Honey, 1/2 cup + Bread crumbs, 6 ounces + Milk, 1/2 cup + Rind of half a lemon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Eggs, 2 + Butter, 2 tablespoons + +Mix the honey and the bread crumbs and add the milk, seasonings, and yolks +of the eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly and then add the butter and the +whites of the eggs well beaten. Steam for about two hours in a pudding +mold which is not more than three-quarters full. + + + +Indian Pudding (3) + + Milk, 1 quart + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Corn meal, 1/3 cup + Ginger, 2 teaspoons + Salt, 1 teaspoon + Cold milk, 1 cup + +Pour milk, scalded, over meal, and cook 20 minutes; add salt, ginger, and +molasses. Cook slowly in a buttered baking dish two hours. When half done, +add the cold milk and finish cooking. + + + +Baked Indian and Apple Pudding (8) + + Corn meal, 1/4 cup + Milk, 2 cups + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Ginger, 1/2 teaspoon + Molasses, 1/4 cup + Apple, 1 + +Sift corn meal slowly into the scalded milk, stirring constantly. Cook in +double boiler 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt, ginger, and +molasses. Put into greased baking dish and bake one hour in a slow oven, +stirring occasionally. Slice apple and stir into pudding. Bake until apple +is tender. + + + +Prune Brown Betty (11) + + Cooked prunes, stoned and cut into halves, 2-1/2 cups + Bread crumbs (dry), 1/2 cup + Corn syrup (dark), 1/4 cup + Lemon juice, 3 tablespoons + Grated rind of 1/4 lemon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Oleomargarine, 1 tablespoon + Prune juice, 1/2 cup + +Mix together heated prune juice, fat, salt, corn syrup, lemon juice, lemon +rind, and cinnamon. Moisten bread crumbs with part of this mixture. Into a +greased baking dish put alternate layers of bread crumbs and prunes, +pouring part of liquid mixture over each layer of prunes. Bake in a +moderate oven about 45 minutes. + + + +Rice Pudding (11) + + Rice, 1/4 cup + Milk, 3/4 cup + Corn syrup (light), 2 tablespoons + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Raisins, 3/4 cup + +Cook the rice in boiling salted water, until soft. Pour off water, add +milk, syrup, nutmeg, and raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (370-380 deg. F.) +for 40 minutes. + + + +Spiced Pudding (11) + + Browned crusts of bread, 1 cup + Scalded milk, 2 cups + Molasses, 1/2 cup + Raisins, 1/2 cup + Salt, 1/2 teaspoon + Nutmeg, 1/4 teaspoon + Cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon + Cloves, 1/4 teaspoon + +Soak the crusts in the milk until soft. Add molasses, salt, spices, and +raisins. Bake in a moderate oven (360-380 deg. F.), stirring occasionally +at first. Serve with milk or cream. + + + + + * * * * * + +The following pages contain advertisements of books by the same author or +on kindred subjects. + + + +FEEDING THE FAMILY + +BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE + +Illustrated, $2.10 + + +This is a clear and concise account in simple every-day terms of the ways +in which modern knowledge of the science of nutrition may be applied in +ordinary life. The food needs of the different members of the typical +family group--men, women, infants, children of various ages--are discussed +in separate chapters, and many concrete illustrations in the form of food +plans and dietaries are included. The problems of the housewife in trying +to reconcile the needs of different ages and tastes at the same table are +also taken up, as are the cost of food and the construction of menus. A +final chapter deals with feeding the sick. + +"The volume is so simply and entertainingly written that it cannot but be +enjoyed by anyone interested in the planning or preparation of household +meals, and it would be difficult to imagine a more helpful book to put +into the hands of a reader desiring information along such +lines."--_Trained Nurse_. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +A LABORATORY HAND-BOOK FOR DIETETICS + +BY MARY SWARTZ ROSE, PH.D. + +Assistant Professor, Department of Nutrition, Teachers College, Columbia +University + +Cloth, 8vo, $1.10 + + +Investigations into the quantitative requirements of the human body have +progressed so far as to make dietetics to a certain extent an exact +science, and to emphasize the importance of a quantitative study of food +materials. This little book explains the problems involved in the +calculation of food values and food requirements, and the construction of +dietaries, and furnishes reference tables which will minimize the labor +involved in such work without limiting dietary study to a few food +materials. + +Only brief statements of the conditions affecting food requirements have +been made, the reader being referred to general textbooks on the subject +of nutrition for fuller information, but such data have been included as +seem most useful in determining the amount of food for any normal +individual under varying conditions of age and activity. + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + PART I + + FOOD VALUES AND FOOD REQUIREMENTS + + THE COMPOSITION OF FOOD MATERIALS. + + THE FUNCTIONS OF FOOD. + Food as a Source of Energy. + Food as Building Material. + Food in the Regulation of Body Processes. + + FOOD REQUIREMENT. + The Energy Requirement of Normal Adults. + The Energy Requirement of Children. + The Energy Requirement of the Aged. + The Protein Requirement. + The Fat and Carbohydrate Requirement. + The Ash Requirement. + + PART II + + PROBLEMS IN DIETARY CALCULATIONS + Studies in Weight, Measure, and Cost of Some Common Food Materials. + Relation between Percentage Composition and Weight. + Calculation of the Fuel Value of a Single Food Material. + Calculation of the Weight of a Standard or 100-Calorie Portion. + Food Value of a Combination of Food Materials. + Distribution of Foodstuffs in a Standard Portion of a Single Food + Material. + Calculation of a Standard Portion of a Combination of Food Materials. + Analysis of a Recipe. + Modification of Cow's Milk to a Required Formula. + Calculation of the Percentage Composition of a Food Mixture. + The Calculation of a Complete Dietary. + Scoring of the Dietary. + + REFERENCE TABLES + Refuse in Food Materials. + Conversion Tables--Grams to Ounces. + Conversion Tables--Ounces to Grams. + Conversion Tables--Pounds to Grams. + Food Values in Terms of Standard Units of Weight. + Ash Constituents in Percentages of the Edible Portion. + Ash Constituents in Standard or 100-Calorie Portions. + + APPENDIX + The Equipment of a Dietetics Laboratory. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +THE FOOD PROBLEM + +BY VERNON KELLOGG AND ALONZO E. TAYLOR. $1.25 + + + "Food is always more or less of a problem in every phase of its + production, handling and consumption. It is a problem with every + farmer, every transporter and seller, every householder. It is a + problem with every town, state and nation. And now very + conspicuously, it is a problem with three great groups, namely the + Allies, The Central Empires and The Neutrals; in a word it is a + great international problem." + +These sentences from the introduction indicate the scope of _The Food +Problem_ by Vernon Kellogg and Alonzo E. Taylor. + +Both authors are members of the United States Food Administration. Dr. +Kellogg is also connected with the Commission for relief in Belgium and +professor in Stanford University. Mr. Taylor is a member of the Exports +Administrative Board and professor in the University of Pennsylvania. The +preface is by Herbert Hoover, United States Food Administrator and +Chairman for the Commission of Relief in Belgium. + +The food problem of today, of our nation, therefore, has as its most +conspicuous phase an international character. Some of the questions which +the book considers are: + +What is the Problem in detail? + +What are the general conditions of its solution? + +What are the immediate and particulars which concern us, and are within +our power to affect? + +And finally, what are we actually doing to meet our problem? + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + Introduction: The International Problem. + + Part I. The Problem and the Solution. + + Chapter I. The Food Situation of the Western Allies and the United + States. + II. Food Administration. + III. How England, France and Italy are Controlling and Saving Food. + IV. Food Control in Germany and Its Lessons. + + Part II. The Technology of Food Use. + + Chapter V. The Physiology of Nutrition. + VI. The Sociology of Nutrition. + VII. The Sociology of Nutrition (Continued). + VIII. Grain and Alcohol. + + Conclusion: Patriotism and Food. + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + * * * * * + +TWO TEXTBOOKS OF THE HOUSEHOLD ARTS + + +BY HELEN KINNE, Professor, AND ANNA M. COOLEY, Associate Professor of +Household Arts Education, Teachers College, Columbia University + +Cloth, 12mo, ill. $1.10 + + +FOODS AND HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT + +Treats specifically of foods, their production, sanitation, cost, +nutritive value, preparation, and serving, these topics being closely +interwoven with the practical aspects of household management; and they +are followed by a study of the household budget and accounts, methods of +buying, housewifery, and laundering. It includes about 160 carefully +selected and tested recipes, together with a large number of cooking +exercises of a more experimental nature designed to develop initiative and +resourcefulness. + +The book is new, practical, and economical. It is well illustrated and +attractively bound. + + +SHELTER AND CLOTHING + +This book takes up fully, but with careful balance, every phase of +home-making: location, structure, plan, sanitation, heating, lighting, +decorating, and furnishing. The second part is devoted to textiles, +sewing, and dressmaking. Sewing, drafting, designing, fitting, and cutting +are treated in considerable detail as is also the making of the personal +budget for clothing. + +The authors hold that harmony will be the keynote of the home in +proportion as the makers of the home regard the plan, the sanitation, the +decoration of the house itself, and as they exercise economy and wisdom in +the provision of clothing. + + + +THE MACMILLAN COMPANY + + Publishers 64-66 Fifth Avenue New York + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERYDAY FOODS IN WAR TIME*** + + +******* This file should be named 14066.txt or 14066.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/4/0/6/14066 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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