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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:43:17 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:43:17 -0700 |
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diff --git a/13945-h/13945-h.htm b/13945-h/13945-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7067db2 --- /dev/null +++ b/13945-h/13945-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10826 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html lang="en" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta name="generator" + content="HTML Tidy for Linux/x86 (vers 1st November 2002), see www.w3.org" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <link href="style.css" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" /> + <link rel="schema.DC" href="http://purl.org/DC/elements/1.0/" /> + <meta name="author" content="Harriet Beecher Stowe" /> + <meta name="DC.Creator" content="Harriet Beecher Stowe" /> + <meta name="DC.Title" content="Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands" /> + <meta name="DC.Date" content="November 2004" /> + <meta name="DC.Language" content="en-us" /> + <title>The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands by Harriet + Beecher Stowe</title> + </head> + <body class="dgp"> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY MEMORIES OF FOREIGN LANDS, VOLUME 1 ***</div> + <div class="text"> + <div class="front"> + <div class="titlePage"> + <h1 class="titlePart">Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands, Volume 1 (of 2)</h1> + by<br /> + <span class="docAuthor" style="font-size: x-large;">Harriet Beecher + Stowe</span><br /> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + <div class="div" id="toc"> + <a id="toc_1" name="toc_1"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Contents</h2> + <ul class="toc"> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_1">Contents</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_2">Preface</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a + href="#toc_3">Introductory</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_4">Breakfast In + Liverpool—April 11.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_5">Public Meeting In + Liverpool—April 13.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_6">Public Meeting In + Glasgow—April 15.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_7">Public Meeting In + Edinburgh—April 20.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_8">Public Meeting In + Aberdeen—April 21.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_9">Public Meeting In + Dundee—April 22.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_10">Address Of The + Students Of Glasgow University—April 25.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_11">Loud Mayor's + Dinner At The Mansion House, London—May 2.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_12">Stafford House + Reception—May 7.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_13">Congregational + Union—May 13.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_14">Royal Highland + School Society Dinner, At The Freemason's Tavern, London—May + 14.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_15">Antislavery + Society, Exeter Hall—May 16.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_16">Soirée At + Willis's Rooms—May 25.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 2em;"><a href="#toc_17">Concluding + Note.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_18">Letter I</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_19">Letter II</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_20">Letter + III</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_21">Letter IV</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_22">Letter V</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_23">Letter + VI.</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_24">Letter + VII</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_25">Letter + VIII</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_26">Letter IX</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_27">Letter X</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_28">Letter XI</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_29">Letter + XII</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_30">Letter + XIII</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_31">Letter + XIV</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_32">Letter XV</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_33">Letter + XVI</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_34">Letter + XVII</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_35">Letter + XVIII</a></li> + <li class="dgp" style="margin: 0em 0em;"><a href="#toc_36">Notes</a></li> + </ul> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + <div class="div"> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">... "When thou haply seest</p> + <p class="l">Some rare note-worthy object in the travels,</p> + <p class="l">Make me partaker of thy happiness."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Shakespeare</span>.</p> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_2" name="toc_2"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Preface</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">This</span> book will be found to be truly + what its name denotes, "Sunny Memories."</p> + <p class="dgp">If the criticism be made that every thing is given <em>couleur + de rose</em>, the answer is, Why not? They are the impressions, as they arose, + of a most agreeable visit. How could they be otherwise?</p> + <p class="dgp">If there be characters and scenes that seem drawn with too + bright a pencil, the reader will consider that, after all, there are many worse + sins than a disposition to think and speak well of one's neighbors. To admire + and to love may now and then be tolerated, as a variety, as well as to carp and + criticize. America and England have heretofore abounded towards each other in + illiberal criticisms. There is not an unfavorable aspect of things in the old + world which has not become perfectly familiar to us; and a little of the other + side may have a useful influence.</p> + <p class="dgp">The writer has been decided to issue these letters principally, + however, by the persevering and deliberate attempts, in certain quarters, to + misrepresent the circumstances which, are here given. So long as these + misrepresentations affected only those who were predetermined to believe + unfavorably, they were not regarded. But as they have had some influence, in + certain cases, upon really excellent and honest people, it is desirable that + the truth should be plainly told.</p> + <p class="dgp">The object of publishing these letters is, therefore, to give to + those who are true-hearted and honest the same agreeable picture of life and + manners which met the writer's own, eyes. She had in view a wide circle of + friends throughout her own country, between whose hearts and her own there has + been an acquaintance and sympathy of years, and who, loving excellence, and + feeling the reality of it in themselves, are sincerely pleased to have their + sphere of hopefulness and charity enlarged. For such this is written; and if + those who are not such begin to read, let them treat the book as a letter not + addressed to them, which, having opened by mistake, they close and pass to the + true owner.</p> + <p class="dgp">The English reader is requested to bear in mind that the book + has not been prepared in reference to an English but an American public, and to + make due allowance for that fact. It would have placed the writer far more at + ease had there been no prospect of publication in England. As this, however, + was unavoidable, in some form, the writer has chosen to issue it there under + her own sanction.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is one acknowledgment which the author feels happy to + make, and that is, to those publishers in England, Scotland, France, and + Germany who have shown a liberality beyond the requirements of legal + obligation. The author hopes that the day is not far distant when America will + reciprocate the liberality of other nations by granting to foreign authors + those rights which her own receive from them.</p> + <p class="dgp">The <em>Journal</em> which appears in the continental tour is + from the pen of the Rev. C. Beecher. The <em>Letters</em> were, for the most + part, compiled from what was written at the time and on the spot. Some few were + entirely written after the author's return.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is an affecting thought that several of the persons who + appear in these letters as among the living, have now passed to the great + future. The Earl of Warwick, Lord Cockburn, Judge Talfourd, and Dr. Wardlaw are + no more among the ways of men. Thus, while we read, while we write, the shadowy + procession is passing; the good are being gathered into life, and heaven + enriched by the garnered treasures of earth.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">H.B.S.</p> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_3" name="toc_3"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Introductory</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">The</span> following letters were written by + Mrs. Stowe for her own personal friends, particularly the members of her own + family, and mainly as the transactions referred to in them occurred. During the + tour in England and Scotland, frequent allusions are made to public meetings + held on her account; but no report is made of the meetings, because that + information, was given fully in the newspapers sent to her friends with the + letters. Some knowledge of the general tone and spirit of the meetings seems + necessary, in order to put the readers of the letters in as favorable a + position to appreciate them as her friends were when they were received. Such + knowledge it is the object of this introductory chapter to furnish.</p> + <p class="dgp">One or two of the addresses at each of several meetings I have + given, and generally without alteration, as they appeared in the public + journals at the time. Only a very few could be published without occupying + altogether too much space; and those selected are for the most part the + shortest, and chosen mainly on account of their brevity. This is certainly a + surer method of giving a true idea, of the spirit which actually pervaded the + meetings than could be accomplished by any selection of mere extracts from the + several speeches. In that case, there might be supposed to exist a temptation + to garble and make unfair representations; but in the method pursued, such a + suspicion is scarcely possible. In relation to my own addresses, I have + sometimes taken the liberty to correct the reporters by my own recollections + and notes. I have also, in some cases, somewhat abridged them, (a liberty which + I have not, to any considerable extent, ventured to take with others,) though + without changing the sentiment, or even essentially the form, of expression. + What I have here related is substantially what I actually said, and what I am + willing to be held responsible for. Many and bitter, during the tour, were the + misrepresentations and misstatements of a hostile press; to which I offer no + other reply than the plain facts of the following pages. These were the + sentiments uttered, this was the manner of their utterance; and I cheerfully + submit them to the judgment of a candid public.</p> + <p class="dgp">I went to Europe without the least anticipation of the kind of + reception which awaited us; it was all a surprise and an embarrassment to me. I + went with the strongest love of my country, and the highest veneration for her + institutions; I every where in Britain found the most cordial sympathy with + this love and veneration; and I returned with both greatly increased. But + slavery I do not recognize as an institution of my country; it is an + excrescence, a vile usurpation, hated of God, and abhorred by man; I am under + no obligation either to love or respect it. He is the traitor to America, and + American institutions, who reckons slavery as one of them, and, as such, + screens it from assault. Slavery is a blight, a canker, a poison, in the very + heart of our republic; and unless the nation, as such, disengage itself from + it, it will most assuredly be our ruin. The patriot, the philanthropist, the + Christian, truly enlightened, sees no other alternative. The developments of + the present session of our national Congress are making this great truth + clearly perceptible even to the dullest apprehension.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">C.E. STOWE.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Andover</span>, <em>May</em> 30, 1854.</p> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_4" name="toc_4"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Breakfast In Liverpool—April 11.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Rev. Dr. M'Neile</span>, who had been requested by the respected host to + express to Mrs. Stowe the hearty congratulations of the first meeting of + friends she had seen in England, thus addressed her: "Mrs. Stowe: I have been + requested by those kind friends under whose hospitable roof we are assembled + to give some expression to the sincere and cordial welcome with which, we + greet your arrival in this country. I find real difficulty in making this + attempt, not from want of matter, nor from want of feeling, but because it is + not in the power of any language I can command, to give adequate expression + to the affectionate enthusiasm which pervades all ranks of our community, and + which is truly characteristic of the humanity and the Christianity of Great + Britain. We welcome Mrs. Stowe as the honored instrument of that noble + impulse which public opinion and public feeling throughout Christendom have + received against the demoralizing and degrading system of human slavery. That + system is still, unhappily, identified in the minds of many with the supposed + material interests of society, and even with the well being of the slaves + themselves; but the plausible arguments and ingenious sophistries by which it + has been defended shrink with shame from the facts without exaggeration, the + principles without compromise, the exposures without indelicacy, and the + irrepressible glow of hearty feeling—O, how true to nature!—which + characterize Mrs. Stowe's immortal book. Yet I feel assured that the effect + produced by Uncle Tom's Cabin is not mainly or chiefly to be traced to the + interest of the narrative, however captivating, nor to the exposures of the + slave system, however withering: these would, indeed, be sufficient to + produce a good effect; but this book contains more and better than even + these; it contains what will never be lost sight of—the genuine + application to the several branches of the subject of the sacred word of God. + By no part of this wonderful work has my own mind been so permanently + impressed as by the thorough legitimacy of the application of + Scripture,—no wresting, no mere verbal adaptation, but in every + instance the passage cited is made to illustrate something in the narrative, + or in the development of character, in strictest accordance with the design + of the passage in its original sacred context. We welcome Mrs. Stowe, then, + as an honored fellow-laborer in the highest and best of causes; and I am much + mistaken if this tone of welcome be not by far the most congenial to her own + feelings. We unaffectedly sympathize with much which she must feel, and, as a + lady, more peculiarly feel, in passing through that ordeal of gratulation + which is sure to attend her steps in every part of our country; and I am + persuaded that we cannot manifest our gratitude for her past services in any + way more acceptable to herself than by earnest prayer on her behalf that she + may be kept in the simplicity of Christ, enjoying in her daily experience the + tender consolations of the Divine Spirit, and in the midst of the most + flattering commendations saying and feeling, in the instincts of a renewed + heart, 'Not unto me, O Lord, not unto me, but unto thy name be the praise, + for thy mercy, and for thy truth's sake.'"</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor + Stowe</span> then rose, and said, "If we are silent, it is not because we do + not feel, but because we feel more than we can express. When that book was + written, we had no hope except in God. We had no expectation of reward save + in the prayers of the poor. The surprising enthusiasm which has been excited + by the book all over Christendom is an indication that God has a work to be + done in the cause of emancipation. The present aspect of things in the United + States is discouraging. Every change in society, every financial revolution, + every political and ecclesiastical movement, seems to pass and leave the + African race without help. Our only resource is prayer. God surely cannot + will that the unhappy condition of this portion of his children should + continue forever. There are some indications of a movement in the southern + mind. A leading southern paper lately declared editorially that slavery is + either right or wrong: if it is wrong, it is to be abandoned: if it is right, + it must be defended. The <em>Southern Press</em>, a paper established to + defend the slavery interest at the seat of government, has proposed that the + worst features of the system, such as the separation of families, should be + abandoned. But it is evident that with that restriction the system could not + exist. For instance, a man wants to buy a cook; but she has a husband and + seven children. Now, is he to buy a man and seven children, for whom he has + no use, for the sake of having a cook? Nothing on the present occasion has + been so grateful to our feelings as the reference made by Dr. M'Neile to the + Christian character of the book. Incredible as it may seem to those who are + without prejudice, it is nevertheless a fact that this book was condemned by + some religious newspapers in the United States as anti-Christian, and its + author associated with infidels and disorganizers; and had not it been for + the decided expression of the mind of English Christians, and of Christendom + itself, on this point, there is reason to fear that the proslavery power of + the United States would have succeeded in putting the book under foot. + Therefore it is peculiarly gratifying that so full an indorsement has been + given the work, in this respect, by eminent Christians of the highest + character in Europe; for, however some in the United States may affect to + despise what is said by the wise and good of this kingdom and the Christian + world, they do feel it, and feel it intensely." In answer to an inquiry by + Dr. M'Neile as to the mode in which southern Christians defended the + institution, Dr. Stowe remarked that "a great change had taken place in that + respect during the last thirty years. Formerly all Christians united in + condemning the system; but of late some have begun to defend it on scriptural + grounds. The Rev. Mr. Smylie, of Mississippi, wrote a pamphlet in the + defensive; and Professor Thornwell, of South Carolina, has published the most + candid and able statement of that argument which has been given. Their main + reliance is on the system of Mosaic servitude, wholly unlike though it was to + the American system of slavery. As to what this American system of slavery + is, the best documents for enlightening the minds of British Christians are + the commercial newspapers of the slaveholding states. There you see slavery + as it is, and certainly without any exaggeration. Read the advertisements for + the sale of slaves and for the apprehension of fugitives, the descriptions of + the persons of slaves, of dogs for hunting slaves, &c., and you see how + the whole matter as viewed by the southern mind. Say what they will about it, + practically they generally regard the separation of families no more than the + separation of cattle, and the slaves as so much property, and nothing else. + Their own papers show that the pictures of the internal slave trade given in + Uncle Tom, so far from being overdrawn, fall even below the truth. Go on, + then, in forming and expressing your views on this subject. In laboring for + the overthrow of American slavery you are pursuing a course of Christian duty + as legitimate as in laboring to suppress the suttees of India, the + cannibalism of the Fejee Islands, and other barbarities of heathenism, of + which human slavery is but a relic. These evils can be finally removed by the + benign influence of the love of Christ, and no other power is competent to + the work."</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_5" name="toc_5"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Liverpool—April 13.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Chairman, (A. Hodgson, Esq.,)</span> in opening the proceedings, thus + addressed Mrs. Beecher Stowe: "The modesty of our English ladies, which, like + your own, shrinks instinctively from unnecessary publicity, has devolved on + me, as one of the trustees of the Liverpool Association, the gratifying + office of tendering to you, at then request, a slight testimonial of their + gratitude and respect. We had hoped almost to the last moment that Mrs. + Cropper would have represented, on this day, the ladies with whom she has + cooperated, and among whom she has taken a distinguished lead in the great + work which you had the honor and the happiness to originate. But she has felt + with you that the path most grateful and most congenial to female exertion, + even in its widest and most elevated range, is still a retired and a shady + path; and you have taught us that the voice which most effectually kindles + enthusiasm in millions is the still small voice which comes forth from the + sanctuary of a woman's breast, and from the retirement of a woman's + closet—the simple but unequivocal expression of her unfaltering faith, + and the evidence of her generous and unshrinking self-devotion. In the same + spirit, and as deeply impressed with the retired character of female + exertion, the ladies who have so warmly greeted your arrival in this country + have still felt it entirely consistent with the most sensitive delicacy to + make a public response to your appeal, and to hail with acclamation your + thrilling protest against those outrages on our common nature which + circumstances have forced on your observation. They engage in no political + discussion, they embark in no public controversy; but when an intrepid sister + appeals to the instincts of women of every color and of every clime against a + system which sanctions the violation of the fondest affections and the + disruption of the tenderest ties; which snatches the clinging wife from the + agonized husband, and the child from the breast of its fainting mother; which + leaves the young and innocent female a helpless and almost inevitable victim + of a licentiousness controlled by no law and checked by no public + opinion,—it is surely as feminine as it is Christian to sympathize with + her in her perilous task, and to rejoice that she has shed such a vivid light + on enormities which can exist only while unknown or unbelieved. We + acknowledge with regret and shame that that fatal system was introduced into + America by Great Britain; but having in our colonies returned from our + devious paths, we may without presumption, in the spirit of friendly + suggestion, implore our honored transatlantic friends to do the same. The + ladies of Great Britain have been admonished by their fair sisters in + America, (and I am sure they are bound to take the admonition in good part,) + that there are social evils in our own country demanding our special + vigilance and care. This is most true; but it is also true that the deepest + sympathies and most strenuous efforts are directed, in the first instance, to + the evils which exist among ourselves, and that the rays of benevolence which + flash across the Atlantic are often but the indication of the intensity of + the bright flame which is shedding light and heat on all in its immediate + vicinity. I believe this is the case with most of those who have taken a + prominent part in this great movement. I am sure it is preeminently the case + with respect to many of those by whom you are surrounded; and I hardly know a + more miserable fallacy, by which sensible men allow themselves to be deluded, + than that which assumes that every emotion of sympathy which is kindled by + objects abroad is abstracted from our sympathies at home. All experience + points to a directly opposite conclusion; and surely the divine command, 'to + go into all the world, and preach the gospel to every creature,' should put + to shame and silence the specious but transparent selfishness which would + contract the limits of human sympathy, and veil itself under the garb of + superior sagacity. But I must not detain you by any further observations. + Allow me, in the name of the associated ladies, to present you with this + small memorial of great regard, and to tender to you their and my best wishes + for your health and happiness while you are sojourning among us, for the + blessing of God on your children during your absence, and for your safe + return to your native country when your mission shall be accomplished. I have + just been requested to state the following particulars: In December last, a + few ladies met in this place to consider the best plan of obtaining + signatures in Liverpool to an address to the women of America on the subject + of negro slavery, in substance coinciding with the one so nobly proposed and + carried forward by Lord Shaftesbury. At this meeting it was suggested that it + would be a sincere gratification to many if some testimonial could be + presented to Mrs. Stowe which would indicate the sense, almost universally + entertained, that she had been the instrument in the hands of God of arousing + the slumbering sympathies of this country in behalf of the suffering slave. + It was felt desirable to render the expression of such a feeling as general + as possible; and to effect this it was resolved that a subscription should be + set on foot, consisting of contributions of one penny and upwards, with a + view to raise a testimonial, to be presented to Mrs. Stowe by the ladies of + Liverpool, as an expression of their grateful appreciation of her valuable + services in the cause of the negro, and as a token of admiration for the + genius and of high esteem for the philanthropy and Christian feeling which + animate her great work, Uncle Tom's Cabin. It ought, perhaps, to be added, + that some friends, not residents of Liverpool, have united in this tribute. + As many of the ladies connected with the effort to obtain signatures to the + address may not be aware of the whole number appended, they may be interested + in knowing that they amounted in all to twenty-one thousand nine hundred and + fifty-three. Of these, twenty thousand nine hundred and thirty-six were + obtained by ladies in Liverpool, from their friends either in this + neighborhood or at a distance; and one thousand and seventeen were sent to + the committee in London from other parts, by those who preferred our form of + address. The total number of signatures from all parts of the kingdom to Lord + Shaftesbury's address was upwards of five hundred thousand."</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor + Stowe</span> then said, "On behalf of Mrs. Stowe I will read from her pen the + response to your generous offering: 'It is impossible for me to express the + feelings of my heart at the kind and generous manner in which I have been + received upon English shores. Just when I had begun to realize that a whole + wide ocean lay between me and all that is dearest to me, I found most + unexpectedly a home and friends waiting to receive me here. I have had not an + hour in which to know the heart of a stranger. I have been made to feel at + home since the first moment of landing, and wherever I have looked I have + seen only the faces of friends. It is with deep feeling that I have found + myself on ground that has been consecrated and made holy by the prayers and + efforts of those who first commenced the struggle for that sacred cause which + has proved so successful in England, and which I have a solemn assurance will + yet be successful in my own country. It is a touching thought that here so + many have given all that they have, and are, in behalf of oppressed humanity. + It is touching to remember that one of the noblest men which England has ever + produced now lies stricken under the heavy hand of disease, through a last + labor of love in this cause. May God grant us all to feel that nothing is too + dear or precious to be given in a work for which such men have lived, and + labored, and suffered. No great good is ever wrought out for the human race + without the suffering of great hearts. They who would serve their fellow-men + are ever reminded that the Captain of their salvation was made perfect + through suffering. I gratefully accept the offering confided to my care, and + trust it may be so employed that the blessing of many "who are ready to + perish" will return upon your heads. Let me ask those—those fathers and + mothers in Israel—who have lived and prayed many years for this cause, + that as they prayed for their own country in the hour of her struggle, so + they will pray now for ours. Love and prayer can hurt no one, can offend no + one, and prayer is a real power. If the hearts of all the real Christians of + England are poured out in prayer, it will be felt through the heart of the + whole American church. Let us all look upward, from our own feebleness and + darkness, to Him of whom it is said, "He shall not fail nor be discouraged + till he have set judgment in the earth." To him, the only wise God our + Saviour, be glory and majesty, dominion and power, both now and ever. + Amen.'—These are the words, my friends, which Mrs. Stowe has written, + and I cannot forbear to add a few words of my own. It was our intention, as + the invitation to visit Great Britain came from Glasgow, to make our first + landing there. But it was ordered by Providence that we should land here; and + surely there is no place in the kingdom where a landing could be more + appropriate, and where the reception could have been more cordial. [Hear, + hear!] It was wholly unexpected by us, I can assure you. We know that there + were friendly hearts here, for we had received abundant testimonials to that + effect from letters which had come to us across the Atlantic—letters + wholly unexpected, and which filled our souls with surprise; but we had no + thought that there was such a feeling throughout England, and we scarcely + know how to conduct ourselves under it, for we are not accustomed to this + kind of receptions. In our own country, unhappily, we are very much divided, + and the preponderance of feeling expressed is in the other direction, + entirely in opposition, and not in favor. [Hear, hear!] We knew that this + city had been the scene of some of the greatest, most disinterested, and most + powerful efforts in behalf of emancipation. The name of Clarkson was + indissolubly associated with this place, for here he came to make his + investigations, and here he was in danger of his life, and here he was + protected by friends who stood by him through the whole struggle. The names + of Cropper, and of Stephen, and of many others in this city, were very + familiar to us—[Hear, hear!]—and it was in connection with this + city that we received what to our feelings was a most effective testimonial, + an unexpected letter from Lord Denman, whom we have always venerated. When I + was in England in 1836, there were no two persons whom I more desired to see + than the Duke of Wellington and Lord Denman; and soon I sought admission to + the House of Lords, where I had the pleasure both of seeing and hearing + England's great captain; and I found my way to the Court of Queen's Bench, + where I had the pleasure of seeing and hearing England's great judge. But how + unexpected was all this to us! When that book was written, in sorrow, and in + sadness, and obscurity, and with the heart almost broken in the view of the + sufferings which it described, and the still greater sufferings which it + dared not describe, there was no expectation of any thing but the prayers of + the sufferers and the blessing of God, who has said that the seed which is + buried in the earth shall spring up in his own good time; and though it may + be long buried, it will still at length come forth and bear fruit. We never + could believe that slavery in our land would be a perpetual curse; but we + felt, and felt deeply, that there must be a terrible struggle before we could + be delivered from it, and that there must be suffering and martyrdom in this + cause, as in every other great cause; for a struggle of eighteen years had + taught us its strength. And, under God, we rely very much on the Christian + public of Great Britain; for every expression of feeling from the wise and + good of this land, with whatever petulance it may be met by some, goes to the + heart of the American people. [Hear, hear!] You must not judge of the + American people by the expressions which have come across the Atlantic in + reference to the subject. Nine tenths of the American people, I think, are, + in opinion at least, with you on this great subject; [Hear, hear!] but there + is a tremendous pressure brought to bear upon all who are in favor of + emancipation. The whole political power, the whole money power, almost the + whole ecclesiastical power is wielded in defence of slavery, protecting it + from all aggression; and it is as much as a man's reputation is worth to + utter a syllable boldly and openly on the other side. Let me say to the + ladies who have been active in getting up the address on the subject of + slavery, that you have been doing a great and glorious work, and a work most + appropriate for you to do; for in slavery it is woman that suffers most + intensely, and the suffering woman has a claim upon the sympathy of her + sisters in other lands. This address will produce a powerful impression + throughout the country. There are ladies already of the highest character in + the nation pondering how they shall make a suitable response, and what they + shall do in reference to it that will be acceptable to the ladies of the + United Kingdom, or will be profitable to the slave; and in due season you + will see that the hearts of American women are alive to this matter, as well + as the hearts of the women of this country. [Hear, hear!] Such was the mighty + influence brought to bear upon every thing that threatened slavery, that had + it not been for the decided expression on this side of the Atlantic in + reference to the work which has exerted, under God, so much influence, there + is every reason to fear that it would have been crushed and put under foot, + as many other efforts for the overthrow of slavery have been in the United + States. But it is impossible; the unanimous voice of Christendom prohibits + it; and it shows that God has a work to accomplish, and that he has just + commenced it. There are social evils in England. Undoubtedly there are; but + the difference between the social evils in England and this great evil of + slavery in the United States is just here: In England, the power of the + government and the power of Christian sympathy are exerted for the removal of + those evils. Look at the committees of inquiry in Parliament, look at the + amount of information collected with regard to the suffering poor in their + reports, and see how ready the government of Great Britain is to enter into + those inquiries, and to remove those evils. Look at the benevolent + institutions of the United Kingdom, and see how active all these are in + administering relief; and then see the condition of slavery in the United + States, where the whole power of the government is used in the contrary + direction, where every influence is brought to bear to prevent any mitigation + of the evil, and where every voice that is lifted to plead for a mitigation + is drowned in vituperation and abuse from those who are determined that the + evil shall not be mitigated. This is the difference: England repents and + reforms. America refuses to repent and reform. It is said, 'Let each country + take care of itself, and let the ladies of England attend to their own + business.' Now I have always found that those who labor at home are those who + labor abroad; [Hear, hear!] and those who say, 'Let us do the work at home,' + are those who do no work of good either at home or abroad. [Hear, hear!] It + was just so when the great missionary effort came up in the United States. + They said, 'We have a great territory here. Let us send missionaries to our + own territories. Why should we send missionaries across the ocean?' But those + who sent missionaries across the ocean were those who sent missionaries in + the United States; and those who did not send missionaries across the ocean + were those who sent missionaries nowhere. [Hear, hear!] They who say, + 'Charity begins at home,' are generally those who have no charity; and when I + see a lady whose name is signed to this address, I am sure to find a lady who + is exercising her benevolence at home. Let me thank you for all the interest + you have manifested and for all the kindness which we have received at your + hands, which we shall ever remember, both with gratitude to you and to God + our Father."</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev. + C.M. Birrell</span> afterwards made a few remarks in proposing a vote of + thanks to the ladies who had contributed the testimonial which had been + presented to the distinguished writer of Uncle Tom's Cabin. He said it was + most delightful to hear of the great good which that remarkable volume had + done, and, he humbly believed, by God's special inspiration and guidance, was + doing, in the United States of America. It was not confined to the United + States of America. The volume was going forth over the whole earth, and great + good was resulting, directly and indirectly, by God's providence, from it. He + was told a few days ago, by a gentleman fully conversant with the facts, that + an edition of Uncle Tom, circulated in Belgium, had created an earnest desire + on the part of the people to read the Bible, so frequently quoted in that + beautiful work, and that in consequence of it a great run had been made upon + the Bible Society's depositories in that kingdom. [Hear, hear!] The priests + of the church of Rome, true to their instinct, in endeavoring to maintain the + position which they could not otherwise hold, had published another edition, + from which, they had entirely excluded all reference to the word of God. + [Hear, hear!] He had been also told that at St. Petersburg an edition of + Uncle Tom had been translated into the Russian tongue, and that it was being + distributed, by command of the emperor, throughout the whole of that vast + empire. It was true that the circulation of the work there did not spring + from a special desire on the part of the emperor to give liberty to the + people of Russia, but because he wished to create a third power in the + empire, to act upon the nobles; he wished to cause them to set free their + serfs, in order that a third power might be created in the empire to serve as + a check upon them. But whatever was the cause, let us thank God, the Author + of all gifts, for what is done.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Sir George + Stephen</span> seconded the motion of thanks to the ladies, observing that he + had peculiar reasons for doing so. He supposed that he was one of the oldest + laborers in this cause. Thirty years ago he found that the work of one lady + was equal to that of fifty men; and now we had the work of one lady which was + equal to that of all the male sex. [Applause.]</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_6" name="toc_6"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Glasgow—April 15.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Rev. Dr. Wardlaw</span> was introduced by the chairman, and spoke as + follows:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"The members of the Glasgow Ladies' New Antislavery + Association and the citizens of Glasgow, now assembled, hail with no ordinary + satisfaction, and with becoming gratitude to a kindly protecting Providence, + the safe arrival amongst them of Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe. They feel + obliged by her accepting, with so much promptitude and cordiality, the + invitation addressed to her—an invitation intended to express the favor + they bore to her, and the honor in which they held her, as the eminently + gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin—a work of humble name, but of + high excellence and world-wide celebrity; a work the felicity of whose + conception is more than equalled by the admirable tact of its execution, and + the Christian benevolence of its design, by its exquisite adaptation to its + accomplishment; distinguished by the singular variety and consistent + discrimination of its characters; by the purity of its religious and moral + principles; by its racy humor, and its touching pathos, and its effectively + powerful appeals to the judgment, the conscience, and the heart; a work, + indeed, of whose sterling worth the earnest test is to be found in the fact + of its having so universally touched and stirred the bosom of our common + humanity, in all classes of society, that its humble name has become 'a + household word,' from the palace to the cottage, and of the extent of its + circulation having been unprecedented in the history of the literature of + this or of any other age or country. They would, at the same time, include in + their hearty welcome the Rev. C.E. Stowe, Professor of Theological Literature + in the Andover Theological Seminary, Massachusetts, whose eminent + qualifications, as a classical scholar, a man of general literature, and a + theologian, have recently placed him in a highly honorable and responsible + position, and who, on the subject of slavery, holds the same principles and + breathes the same spirit of freedom with his accomplished partner; and, along + with them too, another member of the same singularly talented family with + herself. They delight to think of the amount of good to the cause of + emancipation and universal liberty which her Cabin has already done, and to + anticipate the still larger amount it is yet destined to do, now that the Key + to the Cabin has triumphantly shown it to be no fiction; and in whatever + further efforts she may be honored of Heaven to make in the same noble cause, + they desire, unitedly and heartily, to cheer her on, and bid her 'God speed.' + I cannot but feel myself highly honored in having been requested to move this + resolution. In doing so, I have the happiness of introducing to a Glasgow + audience a lady from the transatlantic continent, the extraordinary + production of whose pen, referred to in the resolution, had made her name + familiar in our country and through Europe, ere she appeared in person among + us. My judgment and my heart alike fully respond to every thing said in the + resolution respecting that inimitable work. We are accustomed to make a + distinction between works of nature and works of art, but in a sense which, + all will readily understand, this is preeminently both. As a work of art, it + bears upon it, throughout, the stamp of original and varied genius. And yet, + throughout, it equally bears the impress of nature—of human + nature—in its worst and its best, and all its intermediate phases. The + man who has read that little volume without laughing and crying + alternately—without the meltings of pity, the thrillings of horror, and + the kindlings of indignation—would supply a far better argument for a + distinct race than a negro. [Loud laughter and cheers.] He must have a + humanity peculiarly his own. And he who can read it without the breathings of + devotion must, if he calls himself a Christian, have a Christianity as unique + and questionable as his humanity. [Cheering.] Never did work produce such a + sensation. Among us that sensation has happily been all of one kind. It has + been the stirring of universal sympathy and unbounded admiration. Not so in + the country of its own and of its gifted authoress's birth. There, the + ferment has been among the friends as well as the foes of slavery. Among the + former all is rage. Among the latter, while there are some—we trust not + a few—who take the same high and noble position with the talented + authoress, there are too many, we fear, who are frightened by this + uncompromising boldness, and who are drawn back rather than drawn forward by + it—who 'halt between two opinions,' and are the advocates of medium + principles and medium measures. By many among ourselves, the excitement which + has been stirred is contemplated with apprehension. They regard it as + unfavorable to emancipation, and likely to retard rather than to advance its + progress. I must confess myself of a somewhat different mind. That the cause + may be obstructed by it for a time, may be true. But it will work well in the + long run. Good will ultimately come out of it. Stir is better than stagnancy. + Irritation is better than apathy. Whence does it arise? From two sources. The + conscience and the honor of the country have both been touched. Conscience + winces under the touch. The provocation shows it to be ill at ease. The wound + is painful, and it naturally awakens fretfulness and resentment. But by and + by the angry excitement will subside, and the salutary conviction will remain + and operate. The national honor, too, has been touched. Our friends across + the wave boast, and with good reason, of the free principles of their + constitution. They glory in their liberty. But they cannot fail to feel the + inconsistency of their position, and the exposure of it to the world kindles + on the cheek the blush of shame and the reddening fire of displeasure. Now, + the blush has aright source. It is the blush of patriotism—it is for + their country. But there is anger with the shame; for few things are more + galling than to feel that to be wrong which you are unable to justify, and + which, yet, you are not prepared to relinquish. [Loud applause.] On the + whole, I cannot but regard the agitation which has been produced as an + auspicious, rather than a discouraging omen. It was when the waters of the + pool were troubled that their healing virtue was imparted. Let us then hope + that the troubling of the waters by this ministering angel of mercy may + impregnate them with a similar sanative influence, [the reverend doctor here + pointed towards Mrs. Stowe, while the audience burst out with enthusiastic + acclamations and waving of handkerchiefs,] and thus ultimately contribute to + the healing of the ghastly wounds of the chain and the lash, and to the + setting of the crushed and bowed down erect in the soundness and dignity of + their true manhood. [Loud cheering.] Sorry we are that Mrs. Stowe should + appear amongst us in a state of broken health and physical exhaustion. No one + who looks at the Cabin and at the Key, and who knows aught of the effect of + severe mental labor on the bodily frame, will marvel at this. We fondly + trust, and earnestly pray, that her temporary sojourn among us may, by the + divine blessing, recruit her strength, and contribute to the prolongation of + a life so promising of benefit to suffering humanity, and to the glory of + God. [Cheers.] Meanwhile she enjoys the happy consciousness that she is + suffering in a good cause. A better there could not be. It is one which + involves the well being, corporeal and mental, physical and spiritual, + temporal and eternal, of degraded, plundered, oppressed, darkened, + brutalized, perishing millions. And, while we delight in furnishing her for a + time with a peaceful retreat from 'the wrath of men,' from the resentment of + those who, did they but rightly know their own interests, would have smiled + upon her, and blessed her. We trust she enjoys, and ever will enjoy, + quietness and assurance of an infinitely higher order—the divine + Master, whom she serves and seeks to honor; proving to her, in the terms of + his own promise, 'a refuge from the storm, and a covert from the tempest.' + [Enthusiastic cheering.] It may sound strangely, that, when assembled for the + very purpose of denouncing 'property in man,' we should be putting in our + claims for a share of property in woman. So, however, it is. We claim Mrs. + Stowe as ours—[renewed, cheers]—not ours only, but still ours. + She is British and European property as well as American. She is the property + of the whole world of literature and the whole world of humanity. [Cheers.] + Should our transatlantic friends repudiate the property, they may transfer + their share—[laughter and cheers]—most gladly will we accept the + transference."</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor + Stowe</span>, on rising to reply, was greeted with the most enthusiastic + applause. He said that he appeared in the name of Mrs. Stowe, and in his own + name, for the purpose of cordially thanking the people of Glasgow for the + reception that had been given to them. But he could not find words to do it. + Was it true that all this affectionate interest was merited? [Cheers.] He + could not imagine any book capable of exciting such expressions of + attachment; indeed he was inclined to believe it had not been written at + all—he "'spected it grew." [Tremendous cheers.] Under the oppression of + the fugitive slave law the book had sprung from the soil ready made. He + regretted exceedingly that in consequence of the state of Mrs. Stowe's + health, and in consequence of the great pressure of engagements on himself, + their stay in this country would be necessarily short. But he hoped they + would accept of the expression of thanks they offered, and their apology for + not being in a condition to meet their kindness as they would desire. When + they were about to set out from Andover, a friend of theirs expressed his + astonishment that they should enter upon such a journey in the delicate state + of Mrs. Stowe's health. The Scotch people, he doubted not, would be kind to + them—<em>they would kill them with kindness</em>; and he feared it + would be so. It was from Glasgow the idea of the invitation they had received + had originated; and well might it originate in that city, for when had been + the time that Glasgow was not in earnest on the subject of freedom? They had + had hard struggles for liberty, and they had been successful, and the people + in the United States were now struggling for the same privilege. But they + labored under circumstances greatly different from those in Great Britain. + Scotland had ever been distinguished for its love of freedom. [Great + applause.] The religious denominations in the United States—to a great + extent, give few and feeble expressions of disapprobation against the system + of slavery. Two denominations had never been silent—the Old Scotch + Seceders, or Covenanters, and the disciples of William Penn—not one of + their number, in the United States, owns a slave. Not one can own a slave + without being ejected from the society.<a href="#note_1"><span + class="footnoteref">1</span></a> In fact, the general feeling was against + slavery; but to avoid trouble, the people hesitate to give publicity to their + feelings. Were this done, slavery would soon come to an end. Great sacrifices + are sometimes made by slaveholders to get rid of slavery. He went once to + preach in the State of Ohio. He found there a little log house. Inside was a + delicate woman, feeble and with white hands. She seemed wholly unaccustomed + to work. Her husband had the same appearance of delicacy. They were very + poor. How had they come into that state? They belonged to a slave State, + where they had formerly possessed a little family of slaves. They had felt + slavery to be wrong. They set them free, and with the remainder of their + little property tried to get their living by farming; but like many similar + cases, it had been one of martyrdom. The Professor then proceeded to make + some very practical remarks on the character of the fugitive slave law, after + which he said that the prosperity of Great Britain in a great measure + resulted from the products of slave labor. American cotton was the chief + support of the system. We must, both in Britain and America, get free-grown + cotton, or slavery will not, at least for a long time to come, be abolished. + What he would impress on the minds of Christians was unity in this great + work. Let slaveholders be ever so much opposed to each other on other topics, + they were unanimous in their endeavors to support slavery. But let the + prayers of all Christians and the efforts of all Christians be united; and + the system of oppression would speedily be destroyed forever.</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_7" name="toc_7"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Edinburgh—April 20.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Lord Provost</span> rose, and stated that a number of letters of apology had + been received from parties who had been invited to take part in the meeting, + but who had been unable to attend. Among these he might mention Professor + Blackie, the Rev. Mr. Gilfillan, of Dundee, Rev. J. Begg, D.D., the Earl of + Buchan, Dr. Candlish, and Sir W. Gibson Craig, all of whom expressed their + regret that they could not be present. One of them, he observed, was from a + gentleman who had long taken an interest in the antislavery cause,—Lord + Cockburn,<a href="#note_2"><span class="footnoteref">2</span></a>—and + his note was so warm, and sympathetic, and hearty on the subject about which + they had met, that he could not resist the temptation of reading it. It + proceeded, "I regret, that owing to my being obliged to be in Ayrshire, it + will not be in my power to join you in the expression of respect and + gratitude to Mrs. Stowe; she deserves all the honor that can be done her; she + has done more for humanity than was ever accomplished before by a single book + of fiction. [Cheers.] It did not require much to raise our British feeling + against slavery, but by showing us what substantially are facts, and the + necessary tendency of this evil in its most mitigated form, she has greatly + strengthened the ground on which this feeling rests. Her work may have no + immediate or present influence on the states of her own country that are now + unhappily under the curse, and may indeed for a time aggravate its horrors; + but it is a prodigious accession to the constantly accumulating mass of views + and evidence, which by reason of its force must finally prevail." [Cheers.] + The Lord Provost proceeded to say, that they had now assembled chiefly to do + honor to their distinguished guest, Mrs. Stowe. [Applause.] They had met, + however, also to express their interest in the cause which it had been the + great effort of her life to promote—the abolition of slavery. They took + advantage of her presence, and the effect which was produced on the public + mind of this country, to reiterate their love for the abolition cause, and + their detestation of slavery. Before they were aware that Mrs. Stowe was to + grace the city of Edinburgh with her presence, a committee had been organized + to collect a penny offering—the amount to be contributed in pence, and + other small sums, from the masses of this country—to be presented to + her as some means of mitigating, through her instrumentality, the horrors of + slavery, as they might come under her observation. It was intended at once as + a mark of their esteem for her, of their confidence in her, of their + conviction that she would do what was right in the cause, and, at the same + time, as an evidence of the detestation in which the system of slavery was + held in this free country. That penny offering now, he was happy to say, by + the spontaneous efforts of the inhabitants of this and other towns, amounted + to a considerable sum; to certain gentlemen in Edinburgh forming the + committee the whole credit of this organization was due, and he believed one + of their number, the Rev. Mr. Ballantyne, would present the offering that + evening, and tell them all about it. He would not, therefore, forestall what + he would have to say on the subject. They were also to have the pleasure of + presenting Mrs. Stowe with an address from the committee in this city, which + would be presented by another reverend friend, who would be introduced at the + proper time. As there would be a number of speakers to follow during the + evening, his own remarks must be exceedingly short; but he could not resist + the temptation of saying how happy he felt at being once more in the midst of + a great meeting in the city of Edinburgh, for the purpose of expressing their + detestation of the system of slavery. They could appeal to their brethren in + the United States with clean hands, because they had got rid of the + abomination themselves; they could therefore say to them, through their + friends who were now present, on their return home, and through the press, + which would carry their sentiments even to the slave states—they could + say to them that they had washed their own hands of the evil at the largest + pecuniary sacrifice that was ever made by any nation for the promotion of any + good cause. [Loud applause.] Some parties said that they should not speak + harshly of the Americans, because they were full of prejudice with regard to + the system which they had seen growing up around them. He said so too with + all his heart; he joined in the sentiment that they should not speak harshly, + but they might fairly express their opinion of the system with which their + American friends were surrounded, and in which he thought all who supported + it were guilty participators. [Hear, hear!] They could denounce the + wickedness, they could tell them that they thought it was their duty to put + an end to it speedily. The cause of the abolition of slavery in our own + colonies long hung without any visible progress, notwithstanding the efforts + of many distinguished men, who did all they could to mitigate some of its + more prominent evils; and yet, so long as they never struck at the root, the + progress which they made was almost insensible. They knew how many men had + spent their energies, and some of them their lives, in attempting to forward + the cause; but how little effect was produced for the first half of the + present century! The city of Edinburgh had always, he was glad to say, taken + a deep interest in the cause; it was one of the very first to take up the + ground of total and entire abolition. [Cheers.] A predecessor of his own in + the civic chair was so kind as to preside at a meeting held in Edinburgh + twenty-three years ago, in which a very decided step was proposed to be taken + in advance, and a resolution was moved by the then Dean of Faculty, to the + effect that on the following first of January, 1831, all the children born of + slave parents in our colonies were from that date to be declared free. That + was thought a great and most important movement by the promoters of the + cause. There were, however, parties at that crowded meeting who thought that + even this was a mere expedient—that it was a mere pruning of the + branches, leaving the whole system intact. One of these was the late Dr. + Andrew Thomson—[cheers]—who had the courage to propose that the + meeting should at once declare for total and immediate abolition, which + proposal was seconded by another excellent citizen, Mr. Dickie. Dr. Thomson + replied to some of the arguments which had been put forward, to the effect + that the total abolition might possibly occasion bloodshed; and he said that, + even if that did follow, it was no fault of his, and that he still stuck to + the principle, which he considered right under any circumstances. The + chairman, thereupon, threatened to leave the chair on account of the + unnecessarily strong language used, and when the sentiments were reiterated + by Mr. Dickie, he actually bolted, and left the meeting, which was thrown + into great confusion. A few days afterwards, however, another meeting was + held—one of the largest and most effective that had been ever held in + Edinburgh—at which were present Mr. John Shank More in the chair, the + Rev. Dr. Thomson, Rev. Dr Gordon, Dr. Ritchie, Mr. Muirhead, the Rev. Mr. + Buchanan of North Leith, Mr. J. Wigham, Jr., Dr. Greville, &c. The Lord + Provost proceeded to read extracts from the speeches made at the meeting, + showing that the sentiments of the inhabitants of Edinburgh, so far back as + 1830, as uttered by some of its most distinguished men,—not violent + agitators, but ministers of the gospel, promoters of peace and order, and + every good and every benevolent purpose,—were in favor of the immediate + and total abolition of slavery in our colonies. He referred especially to the + speech of Dr. Andrew Thomson on this occasion, from which he read the + following extract: "But if the argument is forced upon me to accomplish this + great object, that there must be violence, let it come, for it will soon pass + away—let it come and rage its little hour, since it is to be succeeded + by lasting freedom, and prosperity, and happiness. Give me the hurricane + rather than the pestilence. Give me the hurricane, with its thunders, and its + lightnings, and its tempests—give me the hurricane, with its partial + and temporary devastations, awful though they be—give me the hurricane, + which brings along with it purifying, and healthful, and salutary + effects—give me the hurricane rather than the noisome pestilence, whose + path is never crossed, whose silence is never disturbed, whose progress is + never arrested by one sweeping blast from the heavens—which walks + peacefully and sullenly through the length and breadth of the land, breathing + poison into every heart, and carrying havoc into every home—enervating + all that is strong, defacing all that is beautiful, and casting its blight + over the fairest and happiest scenes of human life—and which from day + to day, and from year to year, with intolerant and interminable malignity, + sends its thousands and tens of thousands of hapless victims into the + ever-yawning and never-satisfied grave!"—[Loud and long applause.] The + experience which they had had, that all the dangers, all the bloodshed and + violence which were threatened, were merely imaginary, and that none of these + evils had come upon them although slavery had been totally abolished by us, + should, he thought, be an encouragement to their American friends to go home + and tell their countrymen that in this great city the views now put forward + were advocated long ago—that the persons who now held them said the + same years ago of the disturbances and the evils which would arise from + pressing the question of immediate and total abolition—that the same + kind of arguments and the same predictions of evil were uttered in + England—and although she had not the experience, although she had not + the opportunity of pointing to the past, and saying the evil had not come in + such a case, still, even then, they were willing to face the evil, to stick + to the righteous principle, and to say, come what would, justice must be done + to the slave, and slavery must be wholly and immediately abolished. [Cheers.] + He had said so much on the question of slavery, because he was very sure it + would be much more agreeable to their modest and retiring and distinguished + guest that one should speak about any other thing than about herself. Uncle + Tom's Cabin needed no recommendation from him. [Loud cheers.] It was the most + extraordinary book, he thought, that had ever been published; no book had + ever got into the same circulation; none had ever produced a tithe of the + impression which it had produced within a given time. It was worth all the + proslavery press of America put together. The horrors of slavery were not + merely described, but they were actually pictured to the eye. They were seen + and understood fully; formerly they were mere dim visions, about which there + was great difference of opinion; some saw them as in a mist, and others more + clearly; but now every body saw and understood slavery. Every body in this + great city, if they had a voice in the matter, would be prepared to say that + they wished slavery to be utterly extinguished. [Loud cheers.]</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor + Stowe</span> then rose, and was greeted with loud cheers. He begged to read + the following note from Mrs. Stowe, in acknowledgment of the + honor:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"I accept these congratulations and honors, and this offering, + which it has pleased Scotland to bestow on me, not for any thing which I have + said or done, not as in any sense acknowledging that they are or can be + deserved, but with heartfelt, humble gratitude to God, as tokens of mercy to + a cause most sacred and most oppressed. In the name of a people despised and + rejected of men—in the name of men of sorrows acquainted with grief, + from whom the faces of all the great and powerful of the earth have been + hid—in the name of oppressed and suffering humanity, I thank you. The + offering given is the dearer to me, and the more hopeful, that it is + literally the penny offering, given by thousands on thousands, a penny at a + time. When, in travelling through your country, aged men and women have met + me with such fervent blessings, little children gathered round me with such + loving eyes—when honest hands, hard with toil, have been stretched + forth with such hearty welcome—when I have seen how really it has come + from the depths of the hearts of the common people, and know, as I truly do, + what prayers are going up with it from the humblest homes of Scotland, I am + encouraged. I believe it is God who inspires this feeling, and I believe God + never inspired it in vain. I feel an assurance that the Lord hath looked down + from heaven to hear the groaning of the prisoner, and according to the + greatness of his power, to loose those that are appointed to die. In the + human view, nothing can be more hopeless than this cause; all the wealth, and + all the power, and all the worldly influence is against it. But here in + Scotland, need we tell the children of the Covenant, that the Lord on high is + mightier than all human power? Here, close by the spot where your fathers + signed that Covenant, in an hour when Scotland's cause was equally poor and + depressed—here, by the spot where holy martyrs sealed it with their + blood, it will neither seem extravagance nor enthusiasm to say to the + children of such parents, that for the support of this cause, we look, not to + the things that are seen, but to the things that are not seen; to that God, + who, in the face of all worldly power, gave liberty to Scotland, in answer to + your fathers' prayers. Our trust is in Jesus Christ, and in the power of the + Holy Ghost, and in the promise that he shall reign till he hath put all + things under his feet. There are those faithless ones, who, standing at the + grave of a buried humanity, tell us that it is vain to hope for our brother, + because he hath lain in the grave three days already. We turn from them to + the face of Him who has said, 'Thy brother shall rise again.' There was a + time when our great High Priest, our Brother, yet our Lord, lay in the grave + three days; and the governors and powers of the earth made it as sure as they + could, seeding the stone and setting a watch. But a third day came, and an + earthquake, and an angel. So shall it be to the cause of the oppressed; + though now small and despised, we are watchers at the sepulchre, like Mary + and the trusting women; we can sit through the hours of darkness. We are + watching the sky for the golden streaks of dawning, and we believe that the + third day will surely come. For Christ our Lord, being raised from the dead, + dieth no more; and he has pledged his word that he shall not fail nor be + discouraged till he have set judgment on the earth. He shall deliver the poor + when He crieth, the needy, and him that hath no helper. The night is far + spent—the day is at hand. The universal sighing of humanity in all + countries, the whole creation groaning and travailing in pain + together—the earnest expectation of the creature waiting for the + manifestation of the sons of God—show that the day is not distant when + he will break every yoke, and let the oppressed go free. And whatever we are + able to do for this sacred cause, let us cast it where the innumerable + multitude of heaven cast their crowns, at the feet of the Lamb, saying, + 'Worthy is the Lamb that was slain to receive power, and riches, and wisdom, + and strength, and honor, and glory, and blessings.'"</p> + <p class="dgp">The Rev. Professor then continued. "My Lord Provost, Ladies + and Gentlemen: This cause, to be successful, must be carried on in a + religious spirit, with a deep sense of our dependence on God, and with that + love for our fellow-men which the gospel requires. It is because I think I + have met this spirit since I reached the shores of Great Britain, in those + who have taken an interest in the cause, that I feel encouraged to hope that + the expression of your feeling will be effective on the hearts of Christians + on the other side of the Atlantic. There are Christians there as sincere, as + hearty, and as earnest, as any on the face of the earth. They have looked at + this subject, and been troubled; they have hardly known what to do, and their + hearts have been discouraged. They have almost turned away their eyes from + it, because they have scarcely dared encounter it, the difficulties appeared + to them so great. Wrong cannot always receive the support of Christians; + wrong must be done away with; and what must be—what God requires to + be—that certainly will be. Now, in this age, man is every where + beginning to regard the sufferings of his fellow-man as his own. There is an + interest felt in man, as man, which was not felt in preceding ages. The + facilities of communication are bringing all nations in contact, and whatever + wrong exists in any part of the world, is every where felt. There are wrongs + and sufferings every where; but those to which we are accustomed, we look + upon with most indifference, because being accustomed to them, we do not feel + their enormity. You feel the enormity of slavery more than we do, because you + are not immediately interested, and regard it at a distance. We regard some + of the wrongs that exist in the old world with more sensibility than you can + regard them, because we are not accustomed to them, and you are. Therefore, + in the spirit of Christian love, it belongs to Christian men to speak to each + other with great fidelity. It has been said that you know little or nothing + about slavery. O, happy men, that you are ignorant of its enormities. [Hear, + hear!] But you do know something about it. You know as much about it as you + know of the widow-burning in India, or the cannibalism in the Fejee Islands, + or any of those crimes and sorrows of paganism, that induced you to send + forth your missionaries. You know it is a great wrong, and a terrible + obstacle to the progress of the gospel; and that is enough for you to know to + induce you to act. You have as much knowledge as ever induced a Christian + community in any part of the world to exert an influence in any other part of + the world. Slavery is a relic of paganism, of barbarism; it must be removed + by Christianity; and if the light of Christianity shines on it clearly, it + certainly will remove it. There are thousands of hearts in the United States + that rejoice in your help. Whatever expressions of impatience and petulance + you may hear, be assured that these expressions are not the heart of the + great body of the people. [Cheers.] A large proportion of that country is + free from slavery. There is an area of freedom ten times larger than Great + Britain in territory.<a href="#note_3"><span class="footnoteref">3</span></a> + [Cheers.] But all the power over the slave is in the hands of the + slaveholder. You had a power over the slaveholder by your national + legislature; our national legislature has no power over the slaveholder. All + the legislation that can in that country be brought to bear for the slave, is + legislation by the slaveholders themselves. There is where the difficulty + lies. It is altogether by persuasion, Christian counsel, Christian sympathy, + Christian earnestness, that any good can be effected for the slave. The + conscience of the people is against the system—the conscience of the + people, even in the slaveholding states; and if we can but get at the + conscience without exciting prejudice, it will tend greatly towards the + desired effect. But this appeal to the conscience must be unintermittent, + constant. Your hands must not be weary, your prayers must not be + discontinued; but every day and every hour should we be doing something + towards the object. It is sometimes said, Americans who resist slavery are + traitors to their country. No; those who would support freedom are the only + true friends of their country. Our fathers never intended slavery to be + identified with the government of the United States; but in the temptations + of commerce the evil was overlooked; and how changed for the worse has become + the public sentiment even within the last thirty or forty years! The enormous + increase in the consumption of cotton has raised enormously the market value + of slaves, and arrayed both avarice and political ambition in defence of + slavery. Instruct the conscience, and produce free cotton, and this will be + like Cromwell's exhortation to his soldiers, '<em>Trust in God, and keep your + powder dry</em>.'" [Continued cheers.]</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev. + Dr. R. Lee</span> then said: "I am quite sure that every individual here + responds cordially to those sentiments of respect and gratitude towards our + honored guest which have been so well expressed by the Lord Provost and the + other gentlemen who have addressed us. We think that this lady has not only + laid us under a great obligation by giving us one of the most delightful + books in the English language, but that she has improved us as men and as + Christians, that she has taught us the value of our privileges, and made us + more sensible than we were before of the obligation which lies upon us to + promote every good work. I have been requested to say a few words on the + degradation of American slavery; but I feel, in the presence of the gentleman + who last addressed you, and of those who are still to address you, that it + would be almost presumption in me to enter on such a subject. It is + impossible to speak or to think of the subject of slavery without feeling + that there is a double degradation in the matter; for, in the first place, + the slave is a man made in the image of God—God's image cut in ebony, + as old Thomas Fuller quaintly but beautifully said; and what right have we to + reduce him to the image of a brute, and make property of him? We esteem + drunkenness as a sin. Why is it a sin? Because it reduces that which was made + in the image of God to the image of a brute. We say to the drunkard, 'You are + guilty of a sacrilege, because you reduce that which God made in his own + image "into the image of an irrational creature."' Slavery does the very + same. But there is not only a degradation committed as regards the + slave—there is a degradation also committed against himself by him who + makes him a slave, and who retains him in the position of a slave; for is it + not one of the most commonplace of truths that we cannot do a wrong to a + neighbor without doing a greater wrong to ourselves?—that we cannot + injure him without also injuring ourselves yet more? I observe there is a + certain class of writers in America who are fond of representing the feeling + of this country towards America as one of jealousy, if not of hatred.. I + think, my lord, that no American ever travelled in this country without being + conscious at once that this is a total mistake—that this is a total + misapprehension. I venture to say that there is no nation on the face of the + earth in which we feel half so much interest, or towards which we feel the + tenth part of the affection, which we do towards our brethren in the United + States of America. And what is more than that—there is no nation + towards which we feel one half so much admiration, and for which we feel half + so much respect, as we do for the people of the United States of America. + [Cheers.] Why, sir, how can it be otherwise? How is it possible that it + should be the reverse? Are they not our bone and our flesh? and their + character, whatever it is, is it any thing more than our own, a little + exaggerated, perhaps? Their virtues and their vices, their faults and their + excellences, are just the virtues and the vices, the faults and the + excellences, of that old respectable freeholder, John Bull, from whom they + are descended. We are not much surprised that a nation which are slaves + themselves should make other men slaves. This cannot very much surprise us: + but we are both surprised and we are deeply grieved, that a nation which has + conceived so well the idea of freedom—a nation which has preached the + doctrines of freedom with such boldness and such fulness—a nation which + has so boldly and perfectly realized its idea of freedom in every other + respect—should in this only instance have sunk so completely below its + own idea, and forgetting the rights of one class of their fellow-creatures, + should have deprived them of freedom altogether. I say that our grief and our + disapprobation of this in the case of our brethren in America arises very + much from this, that in other respects we admire them so much, we are sorry + that so noble a nation should allow a blot like this to remain upon its + escutcheon. I am not ignorant—nobody can be ignorant—of the great + difficulties which encompass the solution of this question in America. It is + vain for us to shut our eyes to it. There can be no doubt whatever that great + sacrifices will require to be made in order to get rid of this great evil. + But the Americans are a most ingenious people; they are full of inventions of + all sorts, from the invention of a machine for protecting our feet from the + water, to a machine for making ships go by means of heated air; from the one + to the other the whole field of discovery is occupied by their inventive + genius. There is not an article in common use among us but bears some stamp + of America. We rise in the morning, and before we are dressed we have had + half a dozen American articles in our hands. And during the day, as we pass + through the streets, articles of American invention meet us every where. In + short, the ingenuity of the people is proclaimed all over the world. And + there can be no doubt that the moment this great, this ingenious people finds + that slavery is both an evil and a sin, their ingenuity will be successfully + exerted in discovering some invention for preventing its abolition from + ruining them altogether. [Cheers.] No doubt their ingenuity will be equal to + the occasion; and I may take the liberty of adding, that their ingenuity in + that case will find even a richer reward than it has done in those other + inventions which have done them so much honor, and been productive of so much + profit. I say, that sacrifices must be made; there can be no doubt about + that; but I would also observe, that the longer the evil is permitted to + continue, the greater and more tremendous will become the sacrifice which + will be needed to put an end to it; for all history proves that a nation + encumbered, with slavery is surrounded with danger. [Applause.] Has the + history of antiquity been written in vain? Does it not teach us that not only + domestic and social pollutions are the inevitable results, but does it not + teach us also that political insecurity and political revolutions as + certainly slumber beneath the institution of slavery as fireworks at the + basis of Mount Ætna? [Cheers.] It cannot but be so. Men no more than + steam can be compressed without a tremendous revulsion; and let our brethren + in America be sure of this, that the longer the day of reckoning is put off + by them, the more tremendous at last that reckoning will Be." [Loud, + applause.]</p> + <br /> + + <p class="noindent">In regard to this meeting at Edinburgh, there was a + ridiculous story circulated and variously commented on in certain newspapers + of the United States, that <em>the American flag was there exhibited, + insulted, torn, and mutilated</em>. Certain religious papers took the lead in + propagating the slander, which, so for as I know or can learn, <em>had no + foundation</em>, unless it be that, in the arranging of the flag around its + staff, the stars might have been more distinctly visible than the stripes. + The walls were profusely adorned with drapery, and there were numerous flags + disposed in festoons. Truly a wonderful thing to make a story of, and then + parade it in the newspapers from Maine to Texas, beginning in + Philadelphia!</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_8" name="toc_8"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Aberdeen—April 21.</h3> + <h3 class="sub">Address Of The Citizens.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs H. + Beecher Stowe</span>.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: The citizens of Aberdeen have + much pleasure in embracing the opportunity now afforded them of expressing at + once their esteem for yourself personally, and their interest in the cause of + which you have been the distinguished advocate.</p> + <p class="dgp">While they would, not render a blind homage to mere genius, + however exalted, they consider genius such as yours, directed by Christian + principle, as that which, for the welfare of humanity, cannot be too highly + or too fervently honored.</p> + <p class="dgp">Without depreciating the labors of the various advocates of + slave emancipation who have appeared from time to time on both sides of the + Atlantic, they may conscientiously award to you the praise of having brought + about the present universal and enthusiastic sentiment in regard to the + slavery which exists in America.</p> + <p class="dgp">The galvanic battery may be arranged and charged, every plate, + wire, and fluid being in its appropriate place; but, until some hand shall + bring together the extremities of the conducting medium, in vain might we + expect to elicit the latent fire.</p> + <p class="dgp">Every heart may throb with the feeling of benevolence, and + every mind respond to the sentiment that man, in regard to man, should be + free and equal; but it is the province of genius such as yours to give unity + to the universal, and find utterance for the felt.</p> + <p class="dgp">When society has been prepared for some momentous movement or + moral reformation, so that the hidden thoughts of the people want only an + interpreter, the thinking community an organ, and suffering humanity a + champion, distinguished is the honor belonging to the individual in whom all + these requisites are found combined.</p> + <p class="dgp">To you has been assigned by Providence the important task of + educing the latent emotions of humanity, and waking the music that slumbered + in the chords of the universal human heart, till it has pealed forth in one + deep far rolling and harmonious anthem, of which the heavenly burden is, + "Liberty to the captive, and the opening of the prison to them that are + bound!"</p> + <p class="dgp">The production of your accomplished pen, which has already + called forth such unqualified eulogy from almost every land where Anglo-Saxon + literature finds access, and created so sudden and fervent an excitement on + the momentous subject of American slavery, has nowhere been hailed with a + more cordial welcome, or produced more salutary effects, than in the city of + Aberdeen.</p> + <p class="dgp">Though long ago imbued, with antislavery principles and + interested in the progress of liberty in every part of the world, our + community, like many others, required such information, suggestions, and + appeals as your valuable work contains in one great department of slavery, in + order that their interest might be turned into a specific direction, and + their principles reduced, to combined practical effort.</p> + <p class="dgp">Already they have esteemed it a privilege to engage with some + activity in the promotion of the interests of the fugitive slave; and they + shall henceforth regard with a deeper interest than ever the movements of + their American brethren in this matter, until there exists among them no + slavery from which to flee.</p> + <p class="dgp">While they participate in your abhorrence of slavery in the + American states, they trust they need scarcely assure you that they + participate also in your love for the American people.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is in proportion as they love that nation, attached to them + by so many ties, that they lament the existence of a system which, so long as + it exists, must bring odium upon the national character, as it cannot fail to + enfeeble and impair their best social institutions.</p> + <p class="dgp">They believe it to be a maxim that man cannot hold his + fellow-man in slavery without being himself to some extent enslaved. And of + this the censorship of the press, together with the expurgatorial indices of + various religious societies in the Southern States of America, furnish ample + corroboration.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is hoped that your own nation may speedily be directed to + recognize you as its best friend, for having stood forth in the spirit of + true patriotism to advocate the claims of a large portion of your countrymen, + and to seek the removal of an evil which has done much to neutralize the + moral influence of your country's best (and otherwise free) institutions.</p> + <p class="dgp">Accept, then, from the community of Aberdeen their + congratulations on the high literary fame which you have by a single effort + so deservedly acquired, and their grateful acknowledgments for your advocacy + of a cause in which the best interests of humanity are involved.</p> + <p class="dgp">Signed in name and by appointment of a public meeting of the + citizens of Aberdeen within the County Buildings, this 21st April, 1853, + A.D.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Geo. Hessay</span>,</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><em>Provost of Aberdeen</em>.</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_9" name="toc_9"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Public Meeting In Dundee—April 22.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr. + Gilfillan</span>, who was received with great applause, said he had been + intrusted by the Committee of the Ladies' Antislavery Association to present + the following address to Mrs. Stowe, which he would read to the + meeting:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: We, the ladies of the Dundee + Antislavery Association, desire to add our feeble voices to the acclamations + of a world, conscious that your fame and character need no testimony from us. + We are less anxious to honor you than to prove that our appreciation and + respect are no less sincere and no less profound than those of the millions + in other places and other lands, whom you have instructed, improved, + delighted, and thrilled. We beg permission to lay before you the expressions + of a gratitude and an enthusiasm in some measure commensurate with your + transcendent literary merit and moral worth. We congratulate you on the + success of the <em>chef-d'oeuvre</em> of your genius, a success altogether + unparalleled, and in all probability never to be paralleled in the history of + literature. We congratulate you still more warmly on that nobility and + benevolence of nature which made you from childhood the friend of the unhappy + slave, and led you to accumulate unconsciously the materials for the immortal + tale of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We congratulate you in having in that tale + supported with matchless eloquence and pathos the cause of the crushed, the + forgotten, the injured, of those who had no help of man at all, and who had + even been blasphemously taught by professed ministers of the gospel of mercy + that Heaven too was opposed to their liberation, and had blotted them out + from the catalogue of man. We recognize, too, with delight, the spirit of + enlightened and evangelical piety which breathes through your work, and + serves to confute the calumny that none but infidels are interested in the + cause of abolition—a calumny which cuts at Christianity with a yet + sharper edge than at abolition, but which you have proved to be a foul and + malignant falsehood. We congratulate you not only on the richness of the + laurels which you have won, but on the dignity, the meekness, and the + magnanimity with which these laurels have been worn. We hail in you our most + gifted sister in the great cause of liberty—we bid you warmly welcome + to our city, and we pray Almighty God, the God of the oppressed, to pour his + selectest blessings on your head, and to spare your invaluable life, till + yours, and ours, and others' efforts for the cause of abolition are crowned + with success, and till the shouts of a universal jubilee shall proclaim that + in all quarters of the globe the African is free."</p> + <p class="dgp">The address was handed to Mrs. Stowe amid great applause. MR. + GILFILLAN continued: "In addition to the address which I have now read, I + have been requested to add a few remarks; and in making these I cannot but + congratulate Dundee on the fact that Mrs. Stowe has visited it, and that she + has had a reception worthy of her distinguished merits. [Applause.] It is not + Dundee alone that is present here to-night: it is Forfarshire, Fifeshire, and + I may also add, Perthshire:—that are here to do honor to themselves in + doing honor to our illustrious guest. [Cheers.] There are assembled here + representatives of the general feeling that boils in the whole land—not + from our streets alone, but from our country valleys—from our glens and + our mountains O! I wish that Mrs. Stowe would but spare time to go herself + and study that enthusiasm amid its own mountain recesses, amid the uplands + and the friths, and the wild solitudes of our own unconquered and + unconquerable land. She would see scenery there worthy of that pencil which + has painted so powerfully the glories of the Mississippi; ay, and she would + find her name known and reverenced in every hamlet, and see copies of Uncle + Tom's Cabin in the shepherd's shieling, beside Bunyan's Pilgrim's Progress, + the Life of Sir William Wallace, Rob Roy, and the Gaelic Bible. I saw copies + of it carried by travellers last autumn among the gloomy grandeurs of + Glencoe, and, as Coleridge once said when he saw Thomson's Seasons lying in a + Welsh wayside inn, 'That is true fame,' I thought this was fame truer still. + [Applause.] It is too late in the day to criticize Uncle Tom's Cabin, or to + speculate on its unprecedented history—a history which seems absolutely + magical. Why, you are reminded of Aladdin's lamp, and of the palace that was + reared by genii in one night. Mrs. Stowe's genius has done a greater wonder + than this—it has reared in a marvellously short time a structure which, + unlike that Arabian fabric, is a reality, and shall last forever. [Applause.] + She must not be allowed, to depreciate herself, and to call her glorious book + a mere 'bubble.' Such a bubble there never was before. I wish we had ten + thousand such bubbles. [Applause.] If it had been a bubble it would have + broken long ago. 'Man,' says Jeremy Taylor, 'is a bubble.' Yea, but he is an + immortal one. And such an immortal bubble is Uncle Tom's Cabin; it can only + with man expire; and yet a year ago not ten individuals in this vast assembly + had ever heard of its author's name. [Applause.] At its artistic merits we + may well marvel—to find in a small volume the descriptive power of a + Scott, the humor of a Dickens, the keen, observing glance of a Thackeray, the + pathos of a Richardson or Mackenzie, combined with qualities of earnestness, + simplicity, humanity, and womanhood peculiar to the author herself. But there + are three things which, strike me as peculiarly remarkable about Uncle Tom's + Cabin: it is the work of an American—of a woman—and of an + evangelical Christian. [Cheers.] We have long been accustomed to despise + American literature—I mean as compared with our own. I have heard + eminent <em>litterateurs</em> say, 'Pshaw! the Americans have no national + literature.' It was thought that they lived entirely on plunder—the + plunder of poor slaves, and of poor British authors. [Loud cheers.] Their own + works, when, they came among us, were treated either with contempt or with + patronizing wonder—yes, the 'Sketch Book' was a very good book to be an + American's. To parody two lines of Pope, we</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">Admired such wisdom in a Yankee shape,</p> + <p class="l">And showed an Irving as they show an ape.'</p> + </div> + <p class="dgp">[Loud cheers.] And yet, strange to tell, not only of late have + we been almost deluged with editions of new and excellent American writers, + but the most popular book of the century has appeared on the west side of the + Atlantic. Let us hear no more of the poverty of American brains, or the + barrenness of American literature. Had it produced only Uncle Tom's Cabin, it + had evaded contempt just as certainly as Don Quixote, had there been no other + product of the Spanish mind, would have rendered it forever illustrious. It + is the work of a woman, too! None but a woman could have written it. There + are in the human mind springs at once delicate and deep, which only the + female genius can understand, or the female finger touch. Who but a female + could have created the gentle Eva, painted the capricious and selfish Marie + St. Clair, or turned loose a Topsy upon the wondering world? [Loud and + continued cheering.] And it is to my mind exceedingly delightful, and it must + be humiliating to our opponents, to remember that the severest stroke to + American slavery has been given by a woman's hand. [Loud cheers.] It was the + smooth stone from the brook which, sent from the hand of a youthful David, + overthrew Goliath of Gath; but I am less reminded of this than of another + incident in Scripture history. When the robber and oppressor of Israel, + Abimelech, who had slain his brethren, was rushing against a tower, whither + his enemies had fled, we are told that 'a certain woman cast a piece of a + millstone upon Abimelech's head, and all to break his skull,' and that he + cried hastily to the young man, his armor-bearer, and said unto him, 'Draw + thy sword, and slay me, that men say not of me, A woman slew him.' It is a + parable of our present position. Mrs. Stowe has thrown a piece of millstone, + sharp and strong, at the skull of the giant abomination of her country; he is + reeling in his death pangs, and, in the fury of his despair and shame, is + crying, but crying in vain, 'Say not, A woman slew me!' [Applause.] But the + world shall say, 'A woman slew him,' or, at least, 'gave him the first blow, + and drove him to despair and suicide.' [Cheers.] Lastly, it is the work of an + evangelical Christian; and the piety of the book has greatly contributed to + its power. It has forever wiped away the vile calumny, that all who love + their African brother hate their God and Savior. I look, indeed, on Mrs. + Stowe's volume, not only as a noble contribution to the cause of + emancipation, but to the general cause of Christianity. It is an olive leaf + in a dove's mouth, testifying that the waters of scepticism, which have + rolled more fearfully far in America than here,—and no wonder, if the + Christianity of America in general is a slaveholding, man-stealing, + soul-murdering Christianity—that they are abating, and that genuine + liberty and evangelical religion are soon to clasp hands, and to smile in + unison on the ransomed, regenerated, and truly 'United States.' [Loud and + reiterated applause.]"</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_10" name="toc_10"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Address Of The Students Of Glasgow University—April + 25.</h3> + <p class="noindent">This address is particularly gratifying on account of its + recognition of the use of intoxicating drinks as an evil analogous to + slaveholding, and to be eradicated by similar means. The two reforms are in + all respects similar movements, to be promoted in the same manner and with + the same spirit.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs. + Harriet Beecher Stowe</span>.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: The Committee of the Glasgow + University Abstainers' Society, representing nearly one hundred students, + embrace the opportunity which you have so kindly afforded them, of expressing + their high esteem for you, and their appreciation of your noble efforts in + behalf of the oppressed. They cordially join in the welcome with which you + have been so justly received on these shores, and earnestly hope and pray + that your visit may be beneficial to your own health, and tend greatly to the + furtherance of Christian philanthropy.</p> + <p class="dgp">The committee have had their previous convictions confirmed, + and their hearts deeply affected, by your vivid and faithful delineations of + slavery; and they desire to join with thousands on both sides of the + Atlantic, who offer fervent thanksgiving to God for having endowed you with + those rare gifts, which have qualified you for producing the noblest + testimony against slavery, next to the Bible, which the world has ever + received.</p> + <p class="dgp">While giving all the praise to God, from whom cometh every + good and perfect gift, they may be excused for mentioning three + characteristics of your writings regarding slavery, which awakened their + admiration—a sensibility befitting the anguish of suffering millions; + the graphic power which presents to view the complex and hideous system, + stripped of all its deceitful disguises; and the moral courage that was + required to encounter the monster, and drag it forth to the gaze and the + execration of mankind.</p> + <p class="dgp">The committee feel humbled in being called to confess and + deplore, as existing among ourselves, another species of slavery, not less + ruinous in its tendency, and not less criminal in the sight of God—we + mean the slavery by strong drink. We feel too much ashamed of the sad + preëminence which these nations have acquired in regard to this vice to + take any offence at the reproaches cast upon us from across the Atlantic. + Such smiting shall not break our head. We are anxious to profit by it. Yet + when it is used as an argument to justify slavery, or to silence our + respectful but earnest remonstrances, we take exception to the parallelism on + which these arguments are made to rest. We do not justify our slavery. We do + not try to defend it from the Scriptures. We do not make laws to uphold it. + The unhappy victims of our slavery have all forged and riveted their own + fetters. We implore them to forbear; but, alas! in many cases without + success. We invite them to be free, and offer our best assistance to undo + their bonds. When a fugitive slave knocks at our door, escaping from a cruel + master, we try to accost him in the spirit or in the words of a well-known + philanthropist, "Come in, brother, and get warm, and get thy breakfast." And + when distinguished American philanthropists, who have done so much to undo + the heavy burdens in their own land, come over to assist us, we hail their + advent with rejoicing, and welcome them as benefactors. We are well aware + that a corresponding feeling would be manifested in the United States by a + portion, doubtless a large portion, of the population; but certainly not by + those who justify or palliate their own oppression by a reference to our + lamentable intemperance.</p> + <p class="dgp">We rejoice, madam, to know that as abstainers we can claim an + important place, pot only in your sympathies, but in your literary labors. We + offer our hearty thanks for the valuable contributions you have already + furnished in that momentous cause, and for the efforts of that distinguished + family with which you are connected.</p> + <p class="dgp">We bear our testimony to the mighty impulse imparted to the + public mind by the extensive circulation of those memorable sermons which + your honored father gave to Europe, as well as to America, more than + twenty-five years ago. It will be pleasing to him to know that the force of + his arguments is felt in British universities to the present time, and that + not only students in augmenting numbers, but learned professors, acknowledge + their cogency and yield to their power.</p> + <p class="dgp">Permit us to add that a movement has already begun, in an + influential quarter in England, for the avowed purpose of combining the + patriotism and Christianity of these nations in a strenuous agitation for the + suppression, by the legislature, of the traffic in alcoholic drinks.</p> + <p class="dgp">In conclusion, the committee have only further to express + their cordial thanks for your kindness in receiving their address, and their + desire and prayer that you may be long spared to glorify God, by promoting + the highest interests of man; that if it so please him, you may live to see + the glorious fruit of your labors here cm earth, and that hereafter you may + meet the blessed salutation, "Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the + least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me."</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Norman S. Kerr</span>, + <em>Secretary</em>.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Stewart Bates</span>, + <em>President</em>.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Glasgow</span>, 25th April, 1853.</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_11" name="toc_11"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Loud Mayor's Dinner At The Mansion House, London—May + 2.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr. + Justice Talfourd</span>,<a href="#note_4"><span + class="footnoteref">4</span></a> having spoken of the literature of England + and America, alluded to two distinguished authors then present. The one was a + lady, who had shed a lustre on the literature of America, and whose works + were deeply engraven on every English heart. He spoke particularly of the + consecration of so much genius to so noble a cause—the cause of + humanity; and expressed the confident hope that the great American people + would see and remedy the wrongs so vividly depicted. The learned judge, + having paid an eloquent tribute to the works of Mr. Charles Dickens, + concluded by proposing "Mr. Charles Dickens and the literature of the + Anglo-Saxons."</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr. Charles + Dickens</span> returned thanks. In referring to Mrs. H.B. Stowe, he observed + that, in returning thanks, he could not forget he was in the presence of a + stranger who was the authoress of a noble book, with a noble purpose. But he + had no right to call her a stranger, for she would find a welcome in every + English home.</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_12" name="toc_12"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Stafford House Reception—May 7.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Duke Of Sutherland</span> having introduced Mrs. Stowe to the assembly, the + following short address was read and presented to her by the <span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Earl Of Shaftesbury</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: I am deputed by the Duchess + of Sutherland, and the ladies of the two committees appointed to conduct 'The + Address from the Women of England, to the Women of America on the Subject of + Slavery,' to express the high gratification they feel in your presence + amongst them this day.</p> + <p class="dgp">"The address, which has received considerably more than half a + million of the signatures of the women of Great Britain and Ireland, they + have already transmitted to the United States, consigning it to the care of + those whom you have nominated as fit and zealous persons to undertake the + charge in your absence.</p> + <p class="dgp">"The earnest desire of these committees, and, indeed, we may + say of the whole kingdom, is to cultivate the most friendly and affectionate + relations between the two countries; and we cannot but believe that we are + fostering such a feeling when we avow our deep admiration of an American lady + who, blessed by the possession of vast genius and intellectual powers, enjoys + the still higher blessing, that she devotes them to the glory of God and the + temporal and eternal interests of the human race."</p> + <br /> + + <p class="noindent">The following is a copy of the address to which Lord + Shaftesbury makes reference:—</p> + <div class="display"> + <p class="noindent">"<em>The affectionate and Christian Address of many + thousands of Women of Great Britain and Ireland to their Sisters, the Women + of the United States of America</em>.</p> + <p class="dgp">"A common origin, a common faith, and, we sincerely believe, + a common cause, urge us at the present moment to address you on the subject + of that system of negro slavery which still prevails so extensively, and + even under kindly-disposed masters, with such frightful results, in many of + the vast regions of the western world.</p> + <p class="dgp">"We will not dwell on the ordinary topics—on the + progress of civilization; on the advance of freedom every where; on the + rights and requirements of the nineteenth century; but we appeal to you + very seriously to reflect, and to ask counsel of God, how far such a state + of things is in accordance with his holy word, the inalienable rights of + immortal souls, and the pure and merciful spirit of the Christian + religion.</p> + <p class="dgp">"We do not shut our eyes to the difficulties, nay, the + dangers, that might beset the immediate abolition of that long-established + system; we see and admit the necessity of preparation for so great an + event; but in speaking of indispensable preliminaries, we cannot be silent + on those laws of your country which, in direct contravention of God's own + law, instituted in the time of man's innocency, deny, in effect, to the + slave the sanctity of marriage, with all its joys, rights, and obligations; + which separate, at the will of the master, the wife from the husband, and + the children from the parents. Nor can we be silent on that awful system + which, either by statute or by custom, interdicts to any race of men, or + any portion of the human family, education in the truths of the gospel, and + the ordinances of Christianity.</p> + <p class="dgp">"A remedy applied to these two evils alone would commence + the amelioration of their sad condition. We appeal to you, then, as + sisters, as wives, and as mothers, to raise your voices to your + fellow-citizens, and your prayers to God, for the removal of this + affliction from the Christian world. We do not say these things in a spirit + of self-complacency, as though our nation were free from the guilt it + perceives in others. We acknowledge with grief and shame our heavy share in + this great sin. We acknowledge that our forefathers introduced, nay, + compelled the adoption of slavery in those mighty colonies. We humbly + confess it before Almighty God; and it is because we so deeply feel, and so + unfeignedly avow, our own complicity, that we now venture to implore your + aid to wipe away our common crime, and our common dishonor."</p> + </div> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_13" name="toc_13"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Congregational Union—May 13.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Rev. John Angell James</span> said, "I will only for one moment revert to the + resolution.<a href="#note_5"><span class="footnoteref">5</span></a> It does + equal honor to the head, and the heart, and the pen of the man who drew it. + Beautiful in language, Christian in spirit, noble and generous in design, it + is just such a resolution as I shall be glad to see emanate from the + Congregational body, and find its way across the Atlantic to America. Sir, we + speak most powerfully, when, though we speak firmly, we speak in kindness; + and there is nothing in that resolution that can, by possibility, offend the + most fastidious taste of any individual present, or any individual in the + world, who takes the same views of the evil of slavery, in itself, as we do. + [Hear, hear!] I shall not trespass long upon the attention of this audience, + for we are all impatient to hear Professor Stowe speak in his own name, and + in the name of that distinguished lady whom it is his honor and his happiness + to call his wife. [Loud cheers.] His station and his acquirements, his + usefulness in America, his connection with our body, his representation of + the Pilgrim Fathers who bore the light of Christianity to his own country, + all make him welcome here. [Cheers.] But he will not be surprised if it is + not on his own account merely that we give him welcome, but also on account + of that distinguished woman to whom so marked an allusion has already been + made. To her, I am sure, we shall tender no praise, except the praise that + comes to her from a higher source than ours; from One who has, by the + testimony of her own conscience, echoing the voice from above, said to her, + 'Well done, good and faithful servant.' Long, sir, may it be before the + completion of the sentence; before the welcome shall be given to her, when + she shall hear him say, 'Enter thou into the joy of thy Lord.' [Loud cheers.] + But, though we praise her not, or praise with chastened language, we would + say, Madam, we do thank you from the bottom of our hearts, [Hear, hear! and + immense cheering,] for rising up to vindicate our outraged humanity; for + rising up to expound the principles of our still nobler Christianity. For my + own part, it is not merely as an exposition of the evils of slavery that + makes me hail that wondrous volume to our country and to the world; but it is + the living exposition of the principles of the gospel that it contains, and + which will expound those principles to many an individual who would not hear + them from our lips, nor read them from our pens. I maintain, that Uncle Tom + is one of the most beautiful imbodiments of the Christian religion that was + ever presented in this world. [Loud cheers.] And it is that which makes me + take such delight in it. I rejoice that she killed him. [Laughter and + cheers.] He must die under the slave lash—he must die, the martyr of + slavery, and receive the crown of martyrdom from both worlds for his + testimony to the truth. [Turning to Mrs. Stowe, Mr. James continued:] May the + Lord God reward you for what you have done; we cannot, madam—we cannot + do it. [Cheers.] We rejoice in the perfect assurance, in the full confidence, + that the arrow which is to pierce the system of slavery to the heart has been + shot, and shot by a female hand. Right home to the mark it will go. [Cheers.] + It is true, the monster may groan and struggle for a long while yet; but die + it will; die it must—under the potency of that book. [Loud cheers.] It + never can recover. It will be your satisfaction, perhaps, in this world, + madam, to see the reward of your labors. Heaven grant that your life may be + prolonged, until such time as you see the reward of your labors in the + striking off of the last fetter of the last slave that still pollutes the + soil of your beloved country. [Cheers.] For beloved it is; and I should do + dishonor to your patriotism if I did not say it—beloved it is; and you + are prepared to echo the sentiments, by changing the terms, which we often + hear in old England, and say,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">'America! with all thy faults I love thee still!'</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">But still more intense will be my affection, and pure and + devoted the ardor of my patriotism, when this greatest of all thine ills, + this darkest of the blots upon thine escutcheon, shall be wiped out forever." + [Loud applause.]</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The Rev. + Professor Stowe</span> rose amid loud, and repeated cheers, and said, "It is + extremely painful for me to speak on the subject of American slavery, and + especially out of the borders of my own country. [Hear, hear!] I hardly know + whether painful or pleasurable emotions predominate, when I look upon the + audience to which I speak. I feel a very near affinity to the + Congregationalists of England, and especially to the Congregationalists of + London. [Cheers.] My ancestors were residents of London; at least, from the + time of Edward III.; they lived in Cornhill and Leadenhall Street, and their + bones lie buried in the old church of St. Andrew Under-Shaft; and, in the + year 1632, on account of their nonconformity, they were obliged to seek + refuge in the State of Massachusetts; and I have always felt a love and a + veneration for the Congregational churches of England, more than for any + other churches in any foreign land. [Cheers.] I can only hope, that my + conduct, as a religious man and a minister of Christ, may not bring discredit + upon my ancestors, and upon the honorable origin which I claim. [Hear! and + cheers.] I wish to say, in the first place, that in the United States the + Congregational churches, as a body, are free from slavery. [Cheers.] I do not + think that there is a Congregational church in the United States in which a + member could openly hold a slave without subjecting himself to discipline.<a + href="#note_6"><span class="footnoteref">6</span></a> True, I have met with + churches very deficient in their duty on this subject, and I am afraid there + are members of Congregational churches who hold slaves secretly as security + for debt in the Southern States. At the last great Congregational Convention, + held in the city of Albany, the churches took a step on the subject of + slavery much in advance of any other great ecclesiastical body in the + country. I hope it is but the beginning of a series of measures that will + eventuate in the separation of this body from all connection with slavery. + [Hear, hear!] I am extensively acquainted with the United States; I have + lived in different sections of them; I am familiar with people of all + classes, and it is my solemn conviction, that nine tenths of the people feel + on the subject of slavery as you do;<a href="#note_7"><span + class="footnoteref">7</span></a> [cheers;] perhaps not so intensely, for + familiarity with wrong deadens the conscience; but their convictions are + altogether as yours are; and in the slaveholding states, and among + slaveholders themselves, conscience is against the system. [Cheers.] There is + no legislative control of the subject of slavery, except by slaveholding + legislators themselves. Congress has no right to do any thing in the + premises. They violated the constitution, as I believe, in passing the + Fugitive Slave Act. [Cheers.] I do not believe they had any right to pass it. + [Hear, hear!] I stand here not as the representative of any body whatever. I + only represent myself, and give you my individual convictions, that have been + produced by a long and painful connection with the subject. [Hear, hear!] As + to the resolution, I approve it entirely. Its sentiment and its spirit are my + own. [Cheers.] At the close of the revolutionary war, which separated the + colonies from the mother country, every state of the Union was a slaveholding + state; every colony was a slaveholding colony; and now we have seventeen free + states. [Cheers.] Slavery has been abolished in one half of the original + colonies, and it was declared that there should be neither slavery nor the + slave trade in any territory north and west of the Ohio River; so that all + that part is entirely free from actual active participation in this curse, + laying open a free territory that, I think, must be ten times larger in + extent than Great Britain. [Loud cheers.] The State of Massachusetts was the + first in which slavery ceased. How did it cease? By an enactment of the + legislature? Not at all. They did not feel there was any necessity for such + an enactment. The Bill of Rights declared, that all men were born free, and + that they had an equal right to the pursuit of happiness and the acquisition + of property. In contradiction to that, there were slaves in every part of + Massachusetts; and some philanthropic individual advised a slave to bring + into court an action for wages against his master during all his time of + servitude. The action was brought, and the court decided that the negro was + entitled to wages during the whole period. [Cheers.] That put an end to + slavery in Massachusetts, and that decision ought to have put an end to + slavery in all states of the Union, because the law applied to all. They + abolished slavery in all the Northern States—in Maine, New Hampshire, + Vermont, Connecticut, and Rhode Island; and it was expected that the whole of + the states would follow the example. When I was a child, I never heard a lisp + in defence of slavery. [Hear, hear, hear!] Every body condemned it; all + looked upon it as a great curse, and all regarded it as a temporary evil, + which would soon melt away before the advancing light of truth. [Hear, hear!] + But still there was great injustice done to those who had been slaves. Every + body regarded the colored race as a degraded race; they were looked upon as + inferior; they were not upon terms of social equality. The only thing + approaching it was, that the colored children attended the schools with the + white children, and took their places on the same forms; but in all other + respects they were excluded from the common advantages and privileges of + society. In the places of worship they were seated by themselves; and that + difference always existed till these discussions came up, and they began to + feel mortified at their situation; and hence, wherever they could, they had + worship by themselves, and began to build places of worship for themselves; + and now you will scarcely find a colored person occupying a seat in our + places of worship. This stain still remains, and it is but a type of the + feeling that has been generated by slavery. This ought to be known and + understood, and this is just one of the out-croppings of that inward feeling + that still is doing great injustice to the colored race; but there are + symptoms of even that giving way.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I suppose you all remember Dr. + Pennington—[cheers]—a colored minister of great talent and + excellence—[Hear, hear!]—though born a slave, and for many years + was a fugitive slave. [Hear, hear.] Dr. Pennington is a member of the + presbytery of New York; and within the last six months he has been chosen + moderator of that presbytery. [Loud cheers.] He has presided in that capacity + at the ordination of a minister to one of the most respectable churches of + that city. So far so good—we rejoice in it, and we hope that the same + sense of justice which has brought about that change, so that a colored man + can be moderator of a Presbytery in the city of New York, will go on, till + full justice is done to these people, and until the grievous wrongs to which + they have been subjected will be entirely done away. [Cheers.] But still, + what is the aspect which the great American nation now presents to the + Christian world? Most sorry am I to say it; but it is just this—a + Christian republic upholding slavery—the only great nation on earth + that does uphold it—a great Christian republic, which, so far as the + white people are concerned, is the fairest and most prosperous nation on + earth—that great Christian republic using all the power of its + government to secure and to shield this horrible institution of negro slavery + from aggression; and there is no subject on which the government is so + sensitive—there is no institution which it manifests such a + determination to uphold. [Hear, hear!] And then the most melancholy fact of + all is, that the entire Christian church in that republic, with few + exceptions, are silent, or are apologists for this great wrong. [Hear, hear!] + It makes my heart bleed to think of it; and there are many praying and + weeping in secret places over this curse, whose voices are not heard. There + is such a pressure on the subject, it is so mixed up with other things, that + many sigh over it who know not what to say or what to do in reference to it. + And what kind of slavery is it? Is it like the servitude under the Mosaic + law, which is brought forward to defend it? Nothing like it. Let me read you + a little extract from a correspondent of a New York paper, writing from + Paris. I will read it, because it is so graphic, and because I wish to show + from what sources you may best ascertain the real nature of American slavery. + The commercial newspapers, published by slaveholders, in slaveholding states, + will give you a far more graphic idea of what slavery actually is, than you + have from Uncle Tom's Cabin; for there the most horrible features are + softened. This writer says, 'And now a word on American representatives + abroad. I have already made my complaint of the troubles brought on Americans + here by that "incendiary" book of Mrs. Stowe's, especially of the difficulty + we have in making the French understand our institutions. But there was one + partially satisfactory way of answering their questions, by saying that Uncle + Tom's Cabin was a romance. And this would have served the purpose pretty + well, and spared our blushes for the model republic, if the slaveholders + themselves would only withhold their testimony to the truth of what we were + willing to let pass as fiction. But they are worse than Mrs. Stowe herself, + and their writings are getting to be quoted here quite extensively. The + <em>Moniteur</em> of to-day, and another widely-circulated journal that lies + on my table, both contain extracts from those extremely incendiary + periodicals, <em>The National Intelligencer</em>, of February 11, and <em>The + N.O. Picayune</em>, of February 17. The first gives an auctioneer's + advertisement of the sale of "a negro boy of eighteen years, a negro girl + aged sixteen, three horses, saddles, bridles, wheelbarrows," &c. Then + follows an account of the sale, which reads very much like the description, + in the dramatic <em>feuilletons</em> here, of a famous scene in the <em>Case + de l'Oncle Tom</em>, as played at the <em>Ambigu Comique</em>. The second + extract is the advertisement of "our esteemed fellow-citizen, Mr. M.C.G.," + who presents his "respects to the inhabitants of O. and the neighbouring + parishes," and "informs them that he keeps a fine pack of dogs trained to + catch negroes," &c. It is painful to think that there are men in our + country who will write, and that there are others found to publish, such + tales as these about our peculiar institution. I put it to Mr. G., if he + thinks it is patriotic. As a "fellow-citizen," and in his private relations, + G. may be an estimable man, for aught I know, a Christian and a scholar, and + an ornament to the social circles of O. and the neighboring parishes. But as + an author, G. becomes public property, and a fair theme for criticism; and in + that capacity, I say G. is publishing the shame of his country. I call him + G., without the prefatory Mister, not from any personal disrespect, much as I + am grieved at his course as a writer, but because he is now breveted for + immortality, and goes down to posterity, like other immortals, without + titular prefix.' [Cheers.] Now, here is where you get the true features of + slavery. What is the reason that the churches, as a general thing, are + silent—that some of them are apologists, and that some, in the extreme + Southern States, actually defend slavery, and say it is a good institution, + and sanctioned by Scripture? It is simply this—the overwhelming power + of the slave system; and whence comes that overwhelming power? It comes from + its great influence in the commercial world. [Hear!] Until the time that + cotton became so extensively an article of export, there was not a word said + in defence of slavery, as far as I know, in the United States. In 1818, the + Presbyterian General Assembly passed resolutions unanimously on the subject + of slavery, to which this resolution is mildness itself; and not a man could + be found to say one word against it. But cotton became a most valuable + article of export. In one form and another, it became intimately associated + with the commercial affairs of the whole country. The northern manufacturers + were intimately connected with this cotton trade, and more than two thirds + raised in the United States has been sold in Great Britain; and it is this + cotton trade that supports the whole system. That you may rely upon. The + sugar and rice, so far as the United States are concerned, are but small + interests. The system is supported by this cotton trade, and within two days + I have seen an article written with vigor in the <em>Charleston Mercury</em>, + a southern paper of great influence, saying, that the slaveholders are + becoming isolated, by the force of public opinion, from the rest of the + world. They are beginning to be regarded as inhuman tyrants, and the slaves + the victims of their cruelty; but, says the writer, just so long as you take + our cotton, we shall have our slaves. Now, you are as really involved in this + matter as we are—[Hear, hear!]—and if you have no other right to + speak on the subject, you have a right to speak from being yourselves very + active participators in the wrong. You have a great deal of feeling on the + subject, honorable and generous feeling, I know—an earnest, + philanthropic, Christian feeling; but if you have nothing to do, that feeling + will all evaporate, and leave an apathy behind. Now, here is something to be + done. It may be a small beginning, but, as you go forward, Providence will + develop other plans, and the more you do, the further you will see. I am + happy to know that a beginning has been made. There are indications that a + way has been so opened in providence that this exigency can be met. Within + the last few years, the Chinese have begun to emigrate to the western parts + of the United States. They will maintain themselves on small wages; and + wherever they come into actual competition with slave labor, it cannot + compete with them. Very many of the slaveholders have spoken of this as a + very remarkable indication. If slavery had been confined to the original + slave states, as it was intended, slavery could not have lived. It was the + intention that it should never go beyond those boundaries. Had this been the + case, it would increase the number of slaves so much that they would have + been valueless as articles of property. I must say this for America, that the + slaves increase in the slave states faster than the white people; and it + shows that their physical condition is better than was that of the slaves at + the West Indies, or in Cuba, where the number actually diminished. We must + have more slave territories to make our slaves valuable, and there was the + origin of that iniquitous Mexican war, whereby was added the vast territory + of Texas; and then it was the intention to make California a slave state; + but, I am happy to say, it has been received into the Union as a free state, + and God grant it may continue so. [Hear, hear!] What has been the effect of + this expansion of slave territory? It has doubled the value of slaves. Since + I can remember, a strong slave man would sell for about four hundred or six + hundred dollars—that is, about one hundred pounds; but now, during the + present season, I have known instances in which a slave man has been sold for + two hundred and thirty pounds. There are more slaves raised in Virginia and + Maryland than they can use in those states in labor, and, therefore, they + sell them at one hundred, two hundred, or three hundred pounds, as the case + may be, for cash. All that Mrs. Tyler intimates in that letter about slavery + in America, and the impression it is calculated and intended to convey, that + they treat their slaves so well, and do not separate their families, and so + forth, is all mere humbug. [Laughter and cheers.] It is well known that + Virginia has more profit from selling negroes than from any other source. The + great sources of profit are tobacco and negroes, and they derive more from + the sale of negroes than tobacco. You see the temptation this gives to + avarice. Suppose there is a man with no property, except fifteen or twenty + negro men, whom he can sell, each one for two hundred pounds, cash; and he + has as many negro women, whom he can sell for one hundred and fifty pounds, + cash, and the children for one hundred pounds each: here is a temptation to + avarice; and it is calculated to silence the voice of conscience; and it is + the expansion of the slave territory, and the immense mercantile value of the + cotton, that has brought so powerful an influence to bear on the United + States in favor of slavery. [Hear, hear.] Now, as to free labor coming into + competition with slave labor: You will see, that when the price of slaves is + so enormous, it requires an immense outlay to stock a plantation. A good + plantation would take two hundred, or three hundred hands. Now, say for every + hand employed on this plantation, the man must pay on an average two hundred + pounds, which is not exorbitant at the present time. If he has to pay at this + rate, what an immense outlay of capital to begin with, and how great the + interest on that sum continually accumulating! And then there is the constant + exposure to loss. These plantation negroes are very careless of life, and + often cholera gets among them, and sweeps off twenty-five or thirty in a few + days; and then there is the underground railroad, and, with all the + precautions that can be taken, it continues to work. And now you see what an + immense risk, and exposure to loss, and a vast outlay of capital, there is in + connection with this system. But, if a man takes a cotton farm, and can + employ Chinese laborers, he can get them for one or two shillings a day, and + they will do the work as well, if not better than negroes, and there is no + outlay or risk. [Hear, hear!]. If good cotton fields can be obtained, as they + may in time, here is an opening which will tend to weaken the slave system. + If Christians will investigate this subject, and if philanthropists generally + will pursue these inquiries in an honest spirit, it is not long before we + shall see a movement throughout the civilized world, and the upholders of + slavery will feel, where they feel most acutely—in their pockets. Until + something of this kind is done, I despair of accomplishing any great amount + of good by simple appeals to the conscience and right principle. There are a + few who will listen to conscience and a sense of right, but there are + unhappily only a few. I suppose, though you have good Christians here, you + have many who will put their consciences in their pockets. [Hear, hear!] I + have known cases of this kind. There was a young lady in the State of + Virginia who was left an orphan, and she had no property except four negro + slaves, who were of great commercial value. She felt that slavery was wrong, + and she could not hold them. She gave them their + freedom—[cheers]—and supported herself by teaching a small + school. [Cheers.] Now, notwithstanding all the unfavorable things we + see—notwithstanding the dark cloud that hangs over the country, there + are hopeful indications that God has not forgotten us, and that he will carry + on this work till it is accomplished. [Hear!] But it will be a long while + first, I fear; and we must pray, and labor, and persevere; for he that + perseveres to the end, and he only, receives the crown. Now, there are very + few in the United States who undertake to defend slavery, and say it is + right. But the great majority, even of professors of religion, unite to + shield it from aggression. 'It is the law of the land,' they say, 'and we + must submit to it.' It seems a strange doctrine to come from the lips of the + descendants of the Puritans, those who resisted the law of the land because + those laws were against their conscience, and finally went over to that new + world, in order that they might enjoy the rights of conscience. How would it + have been with the primitive church if this doctrine had prevailed? There + never would have been any Christian church, for that was against the laws of + the land. In regard to the distribution of the Bible, in many states the laws + prohibit the teaching of slaves, and the distribution of the Bible is not + allowed among them. The American Bible Society does not itself take the + responsibility of this. It leaves the whole matter to the local societies in + the several states, and it is the local societies that take the + responsibility. Well, why should we obey the law of the land in South + Carolina on this subject, and disobey the law of the land in Italy? But our + missionary societies and Bible societies send Bibles to other parts of the + world, and never ask if it is contrary to the law of these lands, and if it + is, they push it all the more zealously. They send Bibles to Italy and Spain, + and yet the Bible is prohibited by those governments. The American Tract + Society and the American Sunday School Union allow none of their issues to + utter a syllable against slavery. They expunge even from their European books + every passage of this kind, and excuse themselves by the law and the public + sentiment. So are the people taught. There has been a great deal said on the + subject of influence from abroad; but those who talk in that way interfered + with the persecution of the Madiai, and remonstrated with the Tuscan + government. We have had large meetings on the subject in New York, and those + who refuse the Bible to the slave took part in that meeting, and did not seem + to think there was any inconsistency in their conduct.</p> + <p class="dgp">"The Christian church knows no distinction of nations. In that + church there is neither Greek nor Jew, Barbarian, Scythian, bond nor free, + but all are one in Christ; and whatever affects one part of the body affects + the other, and the whole Christian church every where is bound to help, and + encourage, and rebuke, as the case may require. The Christian church is every + where bound to its corresponding branch in every other country; and thus you + have, not only a right, but it is your duty, to consider the case of the + American slave with just the same interest with which you consider the cause + of the native Hindoo, when you send out your missionaries there, or with + which you consider Madagascar; and to express yourselves in a Christian + spirit, and in a Christian way continually, till you see that your + admonitions have had a suitable influence. I do not doubt what you say, that + you will receive with great pleasure men who come from the United States to + promote the cause of temperance, and you may have the opportunity of showing + your sincerity before long; and the manner in which you receive them will + have a very important bearing on the subject of slavery. [Cheers.] I have not + the least doubt you will hail with joy those who will come across the + Atlantic to advance and promote still more earnestly those noble + institutions, the ragged schools and the ragged churches. [Cheers.] The men + who want to do good at home are the men who do good abroad; and the same + spirit of Christian liberality that leads you to feel for the American slave + will lead you to care for your own poor, and those in adverse circumstances + in your own land, I would ask, Is it possible, then, that admonition and + reproof given in a Christian spirit, and by a Christian heart, can fail to + produce a right influence on a Christian spirit and a Christian heart? I + think the thing is utterly impossible; and that if such admonitions as are + contained in the resolution, conceived in such a spirit, and so kindly + expressed—if they are not received in a Christian spirit, it is because + the Christian spirit has unhappily fled. I can answer for myself, at least, + and many of my brethren, that it will be so; and, so far from desiring you to + withhold your expressions on account of any bad feeling that they might + excite, I wish you to reiterate them, and reiterate them in the same spirit + in which they are given in this resolution; for I believe that these + expressions of impatience and petulance represent the feelings of very few. + Who is it that always speaks first? The angry man, and it comes out at once; + but the wise man keeps it in till afterwards; and it will not be long before + you will find, that whatever you say in a Christian spirit will be responded + to on the other side of the water. Now, I believe our churches have neglected + their duty on this subject, and are still neglecting it. Many do not seem to + know what their duty is. Yet I believe them to be good, conscientious men, + and men who will do their duty when they know what it is. Take, for example, + the American Board of Foreign Missions. There are not better men, or more + conscientious men, on the face of the earth, or men more sincerely desirous + of doing their duty; yet, in some things, I believe they are mistaken. I + think it would be better to throw over the very few churches connected with + the Board which are slaveholding, than to endeavor to sustain them, and to + have all this pressure of responsibility still upon them. But yet they are + pursuing the course which they conscientiously think to be right. Christian + admonition will not be lost upon them.<a href="#note_8"><span + class="footnoteref">8</span></a> I will say the same of the American Home + Missionary Society. They have little to do with slavery, as I have already + remarked. Many think they ought not to say any thing upon the subject, + because they cannot do so without weakening their influence. But then this + question comes: If good men do not speak, who will?—[Hear, + hear!]—and, as our Savior said in regard to the children that shouted, + Hosannah, 'If these should hold their peace, the stones would immediately cry + out.' It is in consequence of their silence that stones have begun to cry + out, and they rebuke the silence and apathy of good men; and this is made an + argument against religion, which has had effect with unthinking people; so I + think it absolutely necessary that men in the church, on that very ground, + should speak out their mind on this great subject at whatever + risk—[cheers]—and they must take the consequences. In due time + God will prosper the right, and in due time the fetters will fall from every + slave, and the black man will have the same privileges as the white. + [Applause.]"</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_14" name="toc_14"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Royal Highland School Society Dinner, At The Freemason's + Tavern, London—May 14.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Chairman, Sir Archibald Alison</span>, gave "The health of her Grace the + Duchess of Sutherland, and the noble patronesses of the Society," which was + received with great applause. It was extremely gratifying, he said, to find a + lady, belonging to one of the most ancient and noblest families of the + kingdom, displaying so great an interest in their institution. [Cheers.] Not + the least of their obligations to her Grace was the opportunity she had given + them to offer their respects to a lady, remarkable alike for her genius and + her philanthropy, who had come from across the Atlantic, and who, by her + philanthropic exertions in the cause of negro emancipation, had enlisted the + feelings and called forth the sympathies of thousands and tens of thousands + on both sides of the ocean. [Tremendous cheering.] She had shown that the + genius, and talents, and energies, which such a cause inspired, had created a + species of freemasonry throughout the world; it had set aside nationalities, + and bound two nations together which the broad Atlantic could not sever; and + created a union of sentiment and purpose which he trusted would continue till + the great work of negro emancipation had been finally accomplished. + [Cheers.]</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor + Stowe</span> responded to the allusion which had been made to Mrs. Stowe, and + was greeted with hearty applause. He said he had read in his childhood the + writings of Sir Walter Scott, and thus became intensely interested in all + that pertained to Scotland. [Cheers.] He had read, more recently, his Life of + Napoleon, and also Sir Archibald Alison's History of Europe. [Protracted + cheers.] But he certainly never expected to be called upon to address such an + assembly as that, and under such circumstances. Nothing could exceed the + astonishment which was felt by himself and Mrs. Stowe at the cordiality of + their reception in every part of Great Britain, from persons of every rank in + life. [Cheers.] Every body seemed to have read her book. [Hear, hear! and + loud cheers.] Everyone seemed to have been deeply interested, [cheers,] and + disposed to return a full-hearted homage to the writer. But all she claimed + credit for was truth, and honesty, and earnestness of purpose. He had only to + add that he cordially thanked the Royal Highland School Society for the + kindness which induced them to invite him and Mrs. Stowe to be present that + evening. [Cheers.] The work in which the society was engaged was one that + they both held dear, and in which they felt the deepest interest, inasmuch as + that object was to promote the education of youth among those whose poverty + rendered them unable to provide the means of education for themselves. [Hear, + hear!] In such works as that they had themselves for most of their lives been + diligently engaged. [Cheers.]</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_15" name="toc_15"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Antislavery Society, Exeter Hall—May 16.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">The + Earl Of Shaftesbury</span>, who, on coming forward to open the proceedings, + was received with much applause, spoke as follows: "We are assembled here + this night to protest, with the utmost intensity, and with all the force + which language can command, against the greatest wrong that the wickedness of + man ever perpetrated upon his fellow-man—[loud cheers]—a wrong + which, great in all ages—great in heathen times—great in all + countries—great even under heathen sentiments—is indescribably + monstrous in Christian days, and exercised as it is, not unfrequently, over + Christian people. [Hear!] It is surely remarkable, and exceedingly + disgraceful to a century and a generation so boastful of its progress, and of + the institution of so many Bible societies, with so many professions and + preachments of Christianity—with so many declarations of the spiritual + value of man before God—after so many declarations of this equality of + every man in the sight of his fellow-man—that we should be assembled + here this evening to protest against the conduct of a mighty and a Protestant + people, who, in the spirit of the Romish Babylon, which they had renounced, + resort to her most abominable practices—making merchandise of the + temples of God, and trafficking in the bodies and souls of men. [Cheers.] We + are not here to proclaim and maintain our own immaculate purity. We are not + here to stand forward and say, 'I am holier than thou.' We have confessed, + and that openly, and freely, and unreservedly, our share, our heavy share, in + by-gone days, of vast wickedness; we have, we declare it again, and we had + our deep remorse. We sympathize with the preponderating bulk of the American + people; we acknowledge and we feel the difficulties which beset them; we + rejoice and we believe in their good intentions; but we have no + patience—I at least have none—with those professed leaders, be + they political or be they clerical, who mislead the people—with those + who, blasphemously resting slavery on the Holy Scriptures, desecrate their + pulpits by the promulgation of doctrines better suited to the synagogue of + Satan—[cheers]—nor with that gentleman who, the greatest officer + of the greatest republic in the whole world, in pronouncing an inaugural + address to the assembled multitudes, maintains the institution of slavery; + and—will you believe it?—invokes the Almighty God to maintain + those rights, and thus sanction the violation of his own laws!—[Cries + of 'Shame!'] This is, indeed, a dismal prospect for those who tremble at + human power; but we have this consolation: Is it not said that, 'When the + enemy shall come in like a flood, the Spirit of the Lord shall lift up a + standard against him?' [Hear, hear!] He has done so now, and a most wonderful + and almost inspired protector has arisen for the suffering of this much + injured race. [Loud cheers.] Feeble as her sex, but irresistible as virtue + and as truth, she will prove to her adversary, and to ours, that such + boasting shall not be for his honor, 'for the Lord will sell Sisera into the + hands of a woman.' [Hear, hear! and loud cheers.] Now, I ask you this: Is + there one of you who believes that the statements of that marvellous book to + which we have alluded present an exaggerated picture?—[Tremendous cries + of 'No, no.'] Do they not know, say what they will, that the truth is not + fully stated? [Hear, hear!] The reality is worse than the fiction. [Hear, + hear!] But, apart from this, there is our solemn declaration that the + vileness of the principle is at once exhibited in the mere notion of slavery, + and the atrocities of it are the natural and almost inevitable consequences + of the profession and exercise of absolute and irresponsible power. [Hear, + hear!] But do you doubt the fact? Look to the document. I will quote to you + from this book. I have never read any thing more strikingly illustrative or + condemnatory of the system we are here to denounce. Here is the judgment + pronounced by one of the judges in North Carolina. It is impossible to read + this judgment, however terrible the conclusion, without feeling convinced + that the man who pronounced it was a man of a great mind, and, in spite of + the law he was bound to administer, a man of a great heart. [Hear, hear!] + Hear what he says. The case was this: It was a 'case of appeal,' in which the + defendant had hired a slave woman for a year. During this time she committed + some slight offence, for which the defendant undertook to chastise her. After + doing so he shot at her as she was running away. The question then arose, was + he justified in using that amount of coercion? and whether the privilege of + shooting was not confined to the actual proprietor? The case was argued at + some length, and the court, in pronouncing judgment, began by deploring that + any judge should ever be called upon to decide such a case, but he had to + administer the law, and not to make it. The judge said, 'With whatever + reluctance, therefore, the court is bound to express the opinion, that the + dominion over a slave in Carolina has not, as it has been argued, any analogy + with the authority of a tutor over a pupil, of a master over an apprentice, + or of a parent over a child. The court does not recognize these applications. + There is no likeness between them. They are in opposition to each other, and + there is an impassable gulf between them. The difference is that which exists + between freedom and slavery—[Hear, hear!]—and a greater + difference cannot be imagined. In the one case, the end in view is the + happiness of the youth, born to equal rights with the tutor, whose duty it is + to train the young to usefulness by moral and intellectual instruction. If + they will not suffice, a moderate chastisement maybe administered. But with + slavery it is far otherwise.' Mark these words, for they contain the whole + thing. But with slavery it is far otherwise. The end is the profit of the + master, and the poor object is one doomed, in his own person, and in his + posterity, to live without knowledge, and without capacity to attain any + thing which he may call his own. He has only to labor, that another may reap + the fruits.' [Hear, hear!] Mark! this is from the sacred bench of justice, + pronounced by one of the first intellects in America! 'There is nothing else + which can operate to produce the effect; the power of the master must be + absolute, to render the submission of the slave perfect. [Hear, hear!] It is + inherent in the relation of master and slave;' and then he adds those + never-to-be-forgotten words, 'We cannot allow the right of the master to come + under discussion in the courts of justice. The slave must be made sensible + that there is no appeal from his master, and that his master's power is in no + instance usurped; that these rights are conferred by the laws of man, at + least, if not by the law of God.' [Loud cries of 'Shame, shame!'] This is the + mode in which we are to regard these two classes of beings, both created by + the same God, and both redeemed by the same Savior as ourselves, and destined + to the same immortality! The judgment, on appeal, was reversed; but, God be + praised; there is another appeal, and that appeal we make to the highest of + all imaginable courts, where God is the judge, where mercy is the advocate, + and where unerring truth will pronounce the decision![Protracted cheering.] + There are some who are pleased to tell us that there is an inferiority in the + race! That is untrue. [Cheers.] But we are not here to inquire whether our + black brethren will become Shakspeares or Herschels. [Hear, hear!] I ask, are + they immortal beings? [Great applause.] Do our adversaries, say no? I ask + them, then, to show me one word in the handwriting of God which has thus + levelled them with the brute beasts. [Hear, hear!] Let us bear in mind those + words of our blessed Savior—'Whosoever shall offend one of these little + ones who believe in me, it were better that a millstone were hanged about his + neck, and that he were cast into the depths of the sea.' [Loud cheers.] Now, + then, what is our duty? Is it to stand still? Yes! when we receive the + command from the same authority that said to the sun, Stand over Gibeon! + [Loud cheers.] Then, and not till then, will we stand still. [Renewed + cheers.] Are we to listen to the craven and miserable talk about 'doing more + harm than good'? [Hear, hear!] This was an argument which would have checked + every noble enterprise which has been undertaken since the world began. It + would have strangled Wilberforce, and checked the very Exodus itself from the + house of bondage in Egypt. [Hear, hear!] Out on all such craven talk! + [Cheers.] Slavery is a mystery, and so is all sin, and we must fight against + it; and, by the blessing of God, we will. [Loud cheers.] We must pray to + Almighty God, that we and our American brethren—who seem now to be the + sole depositories of the Protestant truth, and of civil and religious + liberty, may be as one. [Cheers.] We are feeble, if hostile; but, if united, + we are the arbiters of the world. [Cheers.] Let us join together for the + temporal and spiritual good of our race."</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor + Stowe</span> then came forward, and was received with unbounded + demonstrations of applause. When the cheering had subsided, he said "he felt + utterly exhausted by the heat and excitement of the meeting, and should + therefore be glad to be excused from saying a single word; however, he would + utter a few thoughts. The following was the resolution which he had to submit + to the meeting: 'That with a view to the correction of public sentiment on + this subject in slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance that + those who are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe consistency; + and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the development of the + natural resources of countries where slavery does not exist, and the soil of + which is adapted to the growth of products—especially of + cotton—now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor; and though the + extinction of slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for + slave produce than from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of + slavery itself, and from an unwavering and consistent opposition to it, this + meeting would earnestly recommend, that in all cases where it is practicable, + a decided preference should be given to the products of free labor, by all + who enter their protest against slavery, so that at least they themselves may + be clear of any participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally + strengthened in their condemnation of it.' At the close of the revolutionary + war, all the states of America were slaveholding states. In Massachusetts, + some benevolent white man caused a slave to try an action for wages in a + court of justice. He succeeded, and the consequence was, that slavery fell in + Massachusetts. It was then universally acknowledged that slavery was a sin + and shame, and ought to be abolished, and it was expected that it would be + soon abolished in every state of the Union. Mr. Jefferson, Mr. Madison, and + Benjamin Franklin would not allow the word 'slave' to occur in the + constitution, and Mr. Edwards, from the pulpit, clearly and broadly denounced + slavery. And when he (Professor Stowe) was a boy, in Massachusetts the negro + children were admitted to the same schools with the whites. Although there + was some prejudice of color then, yet it was not so strong as at present. In + 1818, the General Assembly of the Presbyterian church in the United States + passed, resolutions against slavery far stronger than those passed at the + meeting this evening, and every man, north and south, voted for them. What + had caused the change? It was the profitableness of the cotton trade. It was + that which had spread the chains of slavery over the Union, and silenced the + church upon the subject. He had been asked, what right had Great Britain to + interfere? Why, Great Britain took four fifths of the cotton of America, and + therefore sustained four fifths of the slavery. That gave them a right to + interfere. [Hear, hear!] He admitted that our participation in the guilt was + not direct, but without the cotton, trade of Great Britain slavery would have + been abolished long ago, for the American manufacturers consumed but one + fifth of all the cotton grown in the country. The conscience of the cotton + growers was talked of; but had the cotton consumer no conscience? [Cheers.] + It seemed to him that the British public had more direct access to the + consumer than to the grower of cotton." Professor Stowe then read an extract + from a paper published in Charleston, South Carolina, showing the influence + of the American cotton trade on the slavery question. "The price of cotton + regulated the price of slaves, who were now worth an average of two hundred + pounds. A cotton plantation required in some cases two hundred, and in others + four hundred slaves. This would give an idea of the capital needed. With free + labor there was none of this outlay—there was none of those losses by + the cholera, and the 'underground railroad,' to which the slave owners were + subjected. [Hear, hear!] The Chinese had come over in large numbers, and + could be hired for small wages, on which they managed to live well in their + way. If people would encourage free-grown cotton, that would be the strongest + appeal they could make to the slaveholder. There were three ways of + abolishing slavery. First, by a bloody revolution, which few would approve. + [Hear, hear!] Secondly, by persuading slaveholders of the wrong they commit; + but this would have little effect so long as they bought their cotton. [Hear, + hear!] And the third and most feasible way was, by making slave labor + unprofitable, as compared with free labor. [Hear!] When the Chinese first + began to emigrate to California, it was predicted that slavery would be 'run + out' that way. He hoped it might be so. [Cheers.] The reverend gentleman then + reverted to his previous visit to this country, seventeen years ago, and + described the rapid strides which had been made in the work of + education—especially the education of the poor—in the interval. + It was most gratifying to him, and more easily seen by him than it would be + by us, with whom the change had been gradual. He had been told in America + that the English abolitionists were prompted by jealousy of America, but he + had found that to be false. The Christian feeling which had dictated efforts + on behalf of ragged schools and factory children, and the welfare of the poor + and distressed of every kind, had caused the same Christian hearts to throb + for the American slave. It was that Christian philanthropy which received all + men as brethren—children of the same father, and therefore he had great + hopes of success. [Cheers.]"</p> + <br /> + + <p class="noindent">My remarks on the cotton business of Britain were made + with entire sincerity, and a single-hearted desire to promote the antislavery + cause. They are sentiments which I had long entertained, and which I had + taken every opportunity to express with the utmost freedom from the time of + my first landing in Liverpool, the great cotton mart of England, and where, + if any where, they might be supposed capable of giving offence; yet no + exception was taken to them, so far as I know, till delivered in Exeter Hall. + There they were heard by some with surprise, and by others with extreme + displeasure. I was even called <em>proslavery</em>, and ranked with Mrs. + Julia Tyler, for frankly speaking the truth, under circumstances of great + temptation to ignore it.</p> + <p class="dgp">Still I have the satisfaction of knowing that both my views + and my motives were rightly understood and properly appreciated by + large-hearted and clear-headed philanthropists, like the Earl of Shaftesbury + and Joseph Sturge, and very fairly represented and commented upon by such + religious and secular papers as the Christian Times, the British Banner, the + London Daily News and Chronicle; and even the <em>thundering political</em> + Times seemed disposed, in a half-sarcastic way, to admit that I was more than + half right.</p> + <p class="dgp">But it is most satisfactory of all to know that the best of + the British abolitionists are now acting, promptly and efficiently, in + accordance with those views, and are determined to develop the resources of + the British empire for the production of cotton by free labor. The thing is + practicable, and not of very difficult accomplishment. It is furthermore + absolutely essential to the success of the antislavery cause; for now the + great practical leading argument for slavery is, <em>Without slavery you can + have no cotton, and cotton you must and will have</em>. The latest work that + I have read in defence of slavery (Uncle Tom in Paris, Baltimore, 1854) says, + (pp. 56-7,) "<em>Of the cotton which supplies the wants of the civilized + world, the south produces 86 per cent.; and without slave labor experience + has shown that the cotton plant cannot be cultivated</em>."</p> + <p class="dgp">How the matter is viewed by sagacious and practical minds in + Britain, is clear from the following sentences, taken from the National + Era:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Cotton</span> is <span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">King</span>.—Charles Dickens, in a + late number of his Household Words, after enumerating the striking facts of + cotton, says,—</p> + <p class="dgp">"'Let any social or physical convulsion visit the United + States, and England would feel the shock from Land's End to John o'Groat's. + The lives of nearly two millions of our countrymen are dependent upon the + cotton crops of America; their destiny may be said, without any sort of + hyperbole, to hang upon a thread.</p> + <p class="dgp">"'Should any dire calamity befall the land of cotton, a + thousand of our merchant ships would rot idly in dock; ten thousand mills + must stop their busy looms, and two million mouths would starve for lack of + food to feed them.'</p> + <p class="dgp">"How many non-slaveholders elsewhere are thus interested in + the products of slaves? Is it not worthy the attention of genuine + philanthropists to inquire whether cotton cannot be profitably cultivated by + free labor?"</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_16" name="toc_16"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Soirée At Willis's Rooms—May 25.</h3> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mr. + Joseph Sturge</span> took the chair, announcing that he did so in the absence + of the Earl of Shaftesbury, who was prevented from attending.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was announced that letters had been received from the Duke + of Newcastle and the Earls of Carlisle and Shaftesbury, expressing their + sympathy with the object of the meeting, and their regret at being unable to + attend.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Secretary, <span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Samuel Bowley, Esq.</span>, of Gloucester, + then read the address, which was as follows:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"<span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Madam</span>: It is with feelings of the + deepest interest that the committee of the British and Foreign Antislavery + Society, on behalf of themselves and of the society they represent, welcome + the gifted authoress of Uncle Tom's Cabin to the shores of Great Britain.</p> + <p class="dgp">"As humble laborers in the cause of negro emancipation, we + hail, with emotions more easily imagined than described, the appearance of + that remarkable work, which has awakened a world-wide sympathy on behalf of + the suffering negro, and called forth a burst of honest indignation against + the atrocious system of slavery, which, we trust, under the divine blessing, + will, at no distant period, accomplish its entire abolition. We are not + insensible to those extraordinary merits of Uncle Tom's Cabin, as a merely + literary production, which have procured for its talented authoress such + universal commendation and enthusiastic applause; but we feel it to be our + duty to refer rather to the Christian principles and earnest piety which + pervade its interesting pages, and to express our warmest desire, we trust we + may say heartfelt prayer, that He who bestowed upon you the power and the + grace to write such a work may preserve and bless you amid all your honours, + and enable you, under a grateful and humble sense of his abundant goodness, + to give him all the glory.</p> + <p class="dgp">"We rejoice to find that the great principles upon which our + society is based are so fully and so cordially recognized by yourself and + your beloved husband and brother—First, that personal slavery, in all + its varied forms, is a direct violation of the blessed, precepts of the + gospel, and therefore a sin in the sight of God; and secondly, that every + victim of this unjust and sinful system is entitled to immediate and + unconditional freedom. For, however we might acquiesce in the course of a + nation which, under a sense of its participation in the guilt of slavery, + should share the pecuniary loss, if such there were, of its immediate + abolition, yet we repudiate the right to demand compensation for human flesh + and blood, as (to employ the emphatic words of Lord Brougham) we repudiate + and abhor 'the wild and guilty fantasy that man can hold property in man.' + And we do not hesitate to express our conviction, strengthened by the + experience of emancipation in our own colonies, that on the mere ground of + social or political expediency, the immediate termination of slavery would be + far less dangerous and far less injurious than, any system of compromise, or + any attempt at gradual emancipation.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Let it be borne in mind, however,—and we record it with + peculiar interest on the present occasion,—that it was the pen of a + woman that first publicly enunciated the imperative duty of immediate + emancipation. Amid vituperation and ridicule, and, far worse, the cold rebuke + of Christian friends, Mrs. Elizabeth Heyrick boldly sent forth the thrilling + tract which taught the abolitionists of Great Britain this lesson of justice + and truth; and we honor her memory for her deeds. Again we are indebted to + the pen of a woman for pleading yet more powerfully the cause of justice to + the slave; and again we have to admire and honor the Christian heroism which + has enabled you, dear madam, to brave the storm of public opinion, and to + bear the frowns of the church in your own land, while you boldly sent forth + your matchless volume to teach more widely and more attractively the same + righteous lesson.</p> + <p class="dgp">"We desire to feel grateful for the measure of success that + has crowned the advocacy of these sound antislavery principles in our own + country; but we cannot but feel, that as regards the continuance of slavery + in America, we have cause for humiliation and shame in the existence of the + melancholy fact that a large proportion of the fruits of the bitter toil and + suffering of the slaves in the western world are used to minister to the + comfort and the luxury of our own population. When this anomaly of a + country's putting down slavery by law on the one hand, and supporting it by + its trade and commerce on the other, will be removed, it is not for us to + predict; but we are conscious that our position is such as should at least + dissipate every sentiment of self-complacency, and make us feel, both + nationally and individually, how deep a responsibility still rests upon us to + wash our own hands of this iniquity, and to seek by every legitimate means in + our power to rid the world of this fearful institution.</p> + <p class="dgp">"True Christian philanthropy knows no geographical limits, no + distinctions of race or color; but wherever it sees its fellow-man the victim + of suffering and oppression, it seeks to alleviate his sorrows, or drops a + tear of sympathy over the afflictions which it has not the power to remove. + We cannot but believe that these enlarged and generous sympathies will be + aroused and strengthened in the hearts of thousands and tens of thousands of + all classes who have wept over the touching pages of Uncle Tom's Cabin. We + have marked the rapid progress of its circulation from circle to circle, and + from country to country, with feelings of thrilling interest; for we trust, + by the divine blessing upon the softening influence and Christian sentiments + it breathes, it will be made the harbinger of a better and brighter day for + the happiness and the harmony of the human family. The facilities for + international intercourse which we now possess, while they rapidly tend to + remove those absurd jealousies which have so long existed between the nations + of the earth, are daily increasing the power of public opinion in the world + at large, which is so well described by one of our leading statesmen in these + forcible words: 'It is quite true, it may be said, what are opinions against + armies? Opinions, if they are founded in truth and justice, will in the end + prevail against the bayonets of infantry, the fire of artillery, and the + charges of cavalry.' Responding most cordially to these sentiments, we + rejoice with thanksgiving to God that you, whom we now greet and welcome as + our dear and honored friend, have been enabled to exemplify their beauty and + their truth; for it is our firm conviction that the united powers of Europe, + with all their military array, could not accomplish what you have done, + through the medium of public opinion, for the overthrow of American + slavery.</p> + <p class="dgp">"The glittering steel of the warrior, though steeped in the + tyrant's blood, would be weak when compared with a woman's pen dipped in the + milk of human kindness, and softened by the balm of Christian love. The words + that have drawn a tear from the eye of the noble, and moistened the dusky + cheek of the hardest sons of toil, shall sink into the heart and weaken the + grasp of the slaveholder, and crimson with a blush of shame many an American + citizen who has hitherto defended or countenanced by his silence this bitter + reproach on the character and constitution of his country.</p> + <p class="dgp">"To the tender mercies of Him who died to save their immortal + souls we commend the downcast slaves for freedom and protection, and, in the + heart-cheering belief that you have been raised up as an honored instrument + in God's hand to hasten the glorious work of their emancipation, we crave + that his blessing, as well as the blessing of him that is ready to perish, + may abundantly rest upon you and yours. With sentiments of the highest esteem + and respect, dear madam, we affectionately subscribe ourselves your friends + and fellow-laborers."</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Professor + Stowe</span> was received with prolonged cheering. He said, "Besides the + right which I have, owing to the relationship subsisting between us, to + answer for the lady whom you have so honored, I may claim a still greater + right in my sympathy for her efforts. [Hear!] We are perfectly agreed in + every point with regard to the nature of slavery, and the best means of + getting rid of it. I have been frequently called on to address public + meetings since I have been on these shores, and though under circumstances of + great disadvantage, and generally with little time, if any, for preparation, + still the very great kindness which has been manifested to Mrs. Stowe and to + myself, and to our country, afflicted as it is with this great evil, has + enabled me to bear a burden which otherwise I should have found + insupportable. But of all the addresses we have received, kind and + considerate as they have all been, I doubt whether one has so completely + expressed the feelings and sympathies of our own hearts as the one we have + just heard. It is precisely the expressions of our own thoughts and feelings + on the whole subject of slavery. As this is probably the last time I shall + have an opportunity of addressing an audience in England, I wish briefly to + give you an outline of our views as to the best means of dealing with that + terrible subject of slavery, for in our country it is really terrible in its + power and influence. Were it not that Providence seems to be lifting a light + in the distance, I should be almost in despair. There is now a system of + causes at work which Providence designs should continue to work, until that + great curse is removed from the face of the earth. I believe that in dealing + with the subject of slavery, and the best means of removing it, the first + thing is to show the utter wrongfulness of the whole system. The great moral + ground is the chief and primary ground, and the one on which we should + always, and under all circumstances, insist. With regard to the work which + has created so much excitement, the great excellence of it morally is, that + it holds up fully and emphatically the extreme wrongfulness of the system, + while at the same time showing an entire Christian and forgiving spirit + towards those involved in it; and it is these two characteristics which, in + my opinion, have given it its great power. Till I read that book, I had never + seen any extensive work that satisfied me on those points. It does show, in + the most striking manner, the horrible wrongfulness of the system, and, at + the same time, it displays no bitterness, no unfairness, no unkindness, to + those involved in it. It is that which gives the work the greater power, for + where there is unfairness, those assailed take refuge behind it; while here + they have no such refuge. We should always aim, in assailing the system of + slavery, to awaken the consciences of those involved in it; for among + slaveholders there are all kinds of moral development, as among every other + class of people in the world. There are men of tender conscience, as well as + men of blunted conscience; men with moral sense, and men with no moral sense + whatever; some who have come into the system involuntarily, born in it, and + others who have come into it voluntarily. There is a moral nature in every + man, more or less developed; and according as it is developed we can, by + showing the wrong of a thing, bring one to abhor it. We have the testimony of + Christian clergymen in slave holding states, that the greater portion of the + Christian people there, and even many slaveholders, believe the system is + wrong; and it is only a matter of time, a question of delay, as to when they + shall perform their whole duty, and bring it to an end.<a + href="#note_9"><span class="footnoteref">9</span></a> One would believe that + when they saw a thing to be wrong, they would at once do right; but + prejudice, habit, interest, education, and a variety of influences check + their aspirations to what is right; but let us keep on pressing it upon their + consciences, and I believe their consciences will at length respond. Public + sentiment is more powerful than force, and it may be excited in many ways. + Conversation, the press, the platform, and the pulpit may all be used to + awaken the feeling of the people, and bring it to bear on this question. I + refer especially to the pulpit; for, if the church and the ministry are + silent, who is to speak for the dumb and the oppressed? The thing that has + borne on my mind with the most melancholy weight, and caused me most sorrow, + is the apparent apathy, the comparative silence, of the church on this + subject for the last twenty or five and twenty years in the United States. + Previous to that period it did speak, and with words of power; but, + unfortunately, it has not followed out those words by acts. The influence of + the system has come upon it, and brought it, for a long time, almost to + entire silence; but I hope we are beginning to speak again. We hear voices + here and there which will excite other voices, and I trust before long they + will bring all to speak the same thing on this subject, so that the + conscience of the whole nation may be aroused. There is another method of + dealing with the subject, which is alluded to in the address, and also in the + resolution of the society, at Exeter Hall. It is the third resolution + proposed at that meeting, and I will read it, and make some comments as I + proceed. It begins, 'That, with a view to the correction of public sentiment + on this subject in slaveholding communities, it is of the first importance + that those who are earnest in condemnation of slavery should observe + consistency, and, therefore, that it is their duty to encourage the + development of the natural resources of countries where slavery does not + exist, and the soil of which is adapted to the growth of products, especially + cotton, now partially or chiefly raised by slave labor.' Now, I concur with + this most entirely, and would refer you to countries where cotton can be + grown even in your own dominions—in India, Australia, British Guiana, + and parts of Africa. But it can be raised by free labor in the United States, + and indeed it is already raised there by free labor to a considerable extent; + and, provided the plan were more encouraged, it could be raised more + abundantly. The resolution goes on to say, 'And though the extinction of + slavery is less to be expected from a diminished demand for slave produce + than from the moral effects of a steadfast abhorrence of slavery, and from an + unwavering and consistent opposition to it,' &c. Now, my own feelings on + that subject are not quite so hopeless as here expressed, and it seems to me + that you are not aware of the extent to which free labor may come into + competition with slave labor. I know several instances, in the most + slaveholding states, in which slave labor has been displaced, and free labor + substituted in its stead. The weakness of slavery consists in the expense of + the slaves, the great capital to be invested in their purchase before any + work can be performed, and the constant danger of loss by death or escape. + When the Chinese emigrants from the eastern portion of their empire came to + the North-western States, their labor was found much cheaper and better than + that of slaves. I therefore hope there may be a direct influence from this + source, as well as the indirect influence contemplated by the resolution. At + all events, it is an encouragement to those who wish the extinction of + slavery to keep their eyes open, and assist the process by all the means in + their power. The resolution proceeds: 'This meeting would earnestly + recommend, in all cases where it is practicable, that a decided preference + should be given to the products of free labor by all who enter their protest + against slavery, so that at least they themselves may be clear of any + participation in the guilt of the system, and be thus morally strengthened in + their condemnation of it.' To that there can be no objection; but still the + state of society is such that we cannot at once dispense with all the + products of slave labor. We may, however, be doing what we + can—examining the ways and methods by which this end may be brought + about; and, at all events, we need not be deterred from self-denial, nor + shrink before minor obstacles. If with foresight we participate in the + encouragement of slave labor, we must hold ourselves guilty, in no + unimportant sense, of sustaining the system of slavery. I will illustrate my + argument by a very simple method. Suppose two ships arrive laden with silks + of the same quality, but one a pirate ship, in which the goods have been + obtained by robbery, and the other by honest trade. The pirate sells his + silks twenty per cent. cheaper than the honest trader: you go to him, and + declaim against his dishonesty; but because you can get silks cheaper of him, + you buy of him. Would he think you sincere in your denunciations of his + plundering his fellow-creatures, or would you exert any influence on him to + make him abandon his dishonest practices? I can, however, put another case in + which this inconsistency might, perhaps, be unavoidable. Suppose we were in + famine or great necessity, and we wished to obtain provisions for our + suffering families: suppose, too, there was a certain man with provisions, + who, we knew, had come by them dishonestly, but we had no other resource than + to purchase of him. In that case we should be justified in purchasing of him, + and should not participate in the guilt of the robbery. But still, however + great our necessity, we are not justified in refusing to examine the subject, + and in discouraging those who are endeavoring to set the thing on the right + ground. That is all I wish, and all the resolution contemplates; and, + happily, I find that that also is what was implied in the address. I may + mention one other method alluded to in the address, and that is prayer to + Almighty God. This ought to be, and must be, a religious enterprise. It is + impossible for any man to contemplate slavery as it is without feeling + intense indignation; and unless he have his heart near to God, and unless he + be a man of prayer and devotional spirit, bad passions will arise, and to a + very great extent neutralize his efforts to do good. How do you suppose such + a religious feeling has been preserved in the book to which the address + refers? Because it was written amid prayer from the beginning; and it is only + by a constant exercise of the religious spirit that the good it had effected + has been accomplished in the way it has. There is one more subject to which I + would allude, and that is unity among those who desire to emancipate the + slave. I mean a good understanding and unity of feeling among the opponents + of slavery. What gives slavery its great strength in the United States? There + are only about three hundred thousand slaveholders in the United States out + of the whole twenty-five millions of its population, and yet they hold the + entire power over the nation. That is owing to their unbroken unity on that + one matter, however much, and however fiercely, they may contend among + themselves on others. As soon as the subject of slavery comes up, they are of + one heart, of one voice, and of one mind, while their opponents unhappily + differ, and assail each other when they ought to be assailing the great enemy + alone. Why can they not work together, so far as they are agreed, and let + those points on which they disagree be waived for the time? In the midst of + the battle let them sink their differences, and settle them after the victory + is won. I was happy to find at the great meeting of the Peace Society that + that course has been adopted. They are not all of one mind on the details of + the question, but they are of one mind on the great principle of diffusing + peace doctrines among the great nations of Europe. I therefore say, let all + the friends of the slave work together until the great work of his + emancipation is accomplished, and then they will have time to discuss their + differences, though I believe by that time they will all think alike. I thank + you sincerely for the kindness you have expressed towards my country, and for + the philanthropy you have manifested, and I hope all has been done in such a + Christian spirit that every Christian feeling on the other side of the + Atlantic will be compelled to respond to it."</p> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_17" name="toc_17"></a> + <h3 class="dgp">Concluding Note.</h3> + <p class="noindent">Since the preceding addresses were delivered, the aspect + of things among us has been greatly changed. It is just as was predicted by + the sagacious Lord Cockburn, at the meeting in Edinburgh, (see page xxvi.) + The spirit of slavery, stimulated to madness by the indignation of the + civilized world, in its frenzy bids defiance to God and man, and is + determined to make itself respected by enlisting into its service the entire + wealth, and power, and political influence of this great nation. Its + encroachments are becoming so enormous, and its progress so rapid, that it is + now a conflict for the freedom of the citizens rather than for the + emancipation of the slaves. The reckless faithlessness and impudent falsehood + of our national proslavery legislation, the present season, has scarcely a + parallel in history, black as history is with all kinds of perfidy. If the + men who mean to be free do not now arise in their strength and shake off the + incubus which is strangling and crushing them, they deserve to be slaves, and + they will be.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">C.E.S.</p> + </div> + </div> + </div> + <div class="body"> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <h2 class="dgp">Sunny Memories of Foreign Lands</h2> + </div> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_18" name="toc_18"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter I</h2> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image1.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Liverpool</span>, April 11, 1853.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + Children</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">You wish, first of all, to hear of the voyage. Let me assure + you, my dears, in the very commencement of the matter, that going to sea is not + at all the thing that we have taken it to be.</p> + <p class="dgp">You know how often we have longed for a sea voyage, as the + fulfilment of all our dreams of poetry and romance, the realization of our + highest conceptions of free, joyous existence.</p> + <p class="dgp">You remember our ship-launching parties in Maine, when we used + to ride to the seaside through dark pine forests, lighted up with the gold, + scarlet, and orange tints of autumn. What exhilaration there was, as those + beautiful inland bays, one by one, unrolled like silver ribbons before us! and + how all our sympathies went forth with the grand new ship about to be launched! + How graceful and noble a thing she looked, as she sprang from the shore to the + blue waters, like a human soul springing from life into immortality! How all + our feelings went with her! how we longed to be with her, and a part of + her—to go with her to India, China, or any where, so that we might rise + and fall on the bosom of that magnificent ocean, and share a part of that + glorified existence! That ocean! that blue, sparkling, heaving, mysterious + ocean, with all the signs and wonders of heaven emblazoned on its bosom, and + another world of mystery hidden beneath its waters! Who would not long to enjoy + a freer communion, and rejoice in a prospect of days spent in unreserved + fellowship with its grand and noble nature?</p> + <p class="dgp">Alas! what a contrast between all this poetry and the real prose + fact of going to sea! No man, the proverb says, is a hero to his valet de + chambre. Certainly, no poet, no hero, no inspired prophet, ever lost so much on + near acquaintance as this same mystic, grandiloquent old Ocean. The one step + from the sublime to the ridiculous is never taken with such alacrity as in a + sea voyage.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the first place, it is a melancholy fact, but not the less + true, that ship life is not at all fragrant; in short, particularly on a + steamer, there is a most mournful combination of grease, steam, onions, and + dinners in general, either past, present, or to come, which, floating invisibly + in the atmosphere, strongly predisposes to that disgust of existence, which, in + half an hour after sailing, begins to come upon you; that disgust, that + strange, mysterious, ineffable sensation which steals slowly and inexplicably + upon you; which makes every heaving billow, every white-capped wave, the ship, + the people, the sight, taste, sound, and smell of every thing a matter of + inexpressible loathing! Man cannot utter it.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is really amusing to watch the gradual progress of this + epidemic; to see people stepping on board in the highest possible feather, + alert, airy, nimble, parading the deck, chatty and conversable, on the best + possible terms with themselves and mankind generally; the treacherous ship, + meanwhile, undulating and heaving in the most graceful rises and pauses + imaginable, like some voluptuous waltzer; and then to see one after another + yielding to the mysterious spell!</p> + <p class="dgp">Your poet launches forth, "full of sentiment sublime as + billows," discoursing magnificently on the color of the waves and the glory of + the clouds; but gradually he grows white about the mouth, gives sidelong looks + towards the stairway; at last, with one desperate plunge, he sets, to rise no + more!</p> + <p class="dgp">Here sits a stout gentleman, who looks as resolute as an oak + log. "These things are much the effect of imagination," he tells you; "a little + self-control and resolution," &c. Ah me! it is delightful, when these + people, who are always talking about resolution, get caught on shipboard. As + the backwoodsman said to the Mississippi River, about the steamboat, they "get + their match." Our stout gentleman sits a quarter of an hour, upright as a palm + tree, his back squared against the rails, pretending to be reading a paper; but + a dismal look of disgust is settling down about his lips; the old sea and his + will are evidently having a pitched battle. Ah, ha! there he goes for the + stairway; says he has left a book in the cabin, but shoots by with a most + suspicious velocity. You may fancy his finale.</p> + <p class="dgp">Then, of course, there are young ladies,—charming + creatures,—who, in about ten minutes, are going to die, and are sure they + shall die, and don't care if they do; whom anxious papas, or brothers, or + lovers consign with all speed to those dismal lower regions, where the brisk + chambermaid, who has been expecting them, seems to think their agonies and + groans a regular part of the play.</p> + <p class="dgp">I had come on board thinking, in my simplicity, of a fortnight + to be spent something like the fortnight on a trip to New Orleans, on one of + our floating river palaces; that we should sit in our state rooms, read, sew, + sketch, and chat; and accordingly I laid in a magnificent provision in the way + of literature and divers matters of fancy work, with which to while away the + time. Some last, airy touches, in the way of making up bows, disposing ribbons, + and binding collarets, had been left to these long, leisure hours, as matters + of amusement.</p> + <p class="dgp">Let me warn you, if you ever go to sea, you may as well omit all + such preparations. Don't leave so much as the unlocking of a trunk to be done + after sailing. In the few precious minutes when the ship stands still, before + she weighs her anchor, set your house, that is to say, your state room, as much + in order as if you were going to be hanged; place every thing in the most + convenient position to be seized without trouble at a moment's notice; for be + sure that in half an hour after sailing an infinite desperation will seize you, + in which the grasshopper will be a burden. If any thing is in your trunk, it + might almost as well be in the sea, for any practical probability of your + getting to it.</p> + <p class="dgp">Moreover, let your toilet be eminently simple, for you will find + the time coming when to button a cuff or arrange a ruff will be a matter of + absolute despair. You lie disconsolate in your berth, only desiring to be let + alone to die; and then, if you are told, as you always are, that "you mustn't + give way," that "you must rouse yourself" and come on deck, you will appreciate + the value of simple attire. With every thing in your berth dizzily swinging + backwards and forwards, your bonnet, your cloak, your tippet, your gloves, all + present so many discouraging impossibilities; knotted strings cannot be untied, + and modes of fastening which seemed curious and convenient, when you had + nothing else to do but fasten them, now look disgustingly impracticable. + Nevertheless, your fate for the whole voyage depends upon your rousing yourself + to get upon deck at first; to give up, then, is to be condemned to the Avernus, + the Hades of the lower regions, for the rest of the voyage.</p> + <p class="dgp">Ah, <em>those</em> lower regions!—the saloons—every + couch and corner filled with prostrate, despairing forms, with pale cheeks, + long, willowy hair and sunken eyes, groaning, sighing, and apostrophizing the + Fates, and solemnly vowing between every lurch of the ship, that "you'll never + catch them going to sea again, that's what you won't;" and then the bulletins + from all the state rooms—"Mrs. A. is sick, and Miss B. sicker, and Miss + C. almost dead, and Mrs. E., F., and G. declare that they shall give up." This + threat of "giving up" is a standing resort of ladies in distressed + circumstances; it is always very impressively pronounced, as if the result of + earnest purpose; but how it is to be carried out practically, how ladies + <em>do</em> give up, and what general impression is made on creation when they + do, has never yet appeared. Certainly the sea seems to care very little about + the threat, for he goes on lurching all hands about just as freely afterwards + as before.</p> + <p class="dgp">There are always some three or four in a hundred who escape all + these evils. They are not sick, and they seem to be having a good time + generally, and always meet you with "What a charming run we are having! Isn't + it delightful?" and so on. If you have a turn for being disinterested, you can + console your miseries by a view of their joyousness. Three or four of our + ladies were of this happy order, and it was really refreshing to see them.</p> + <p class="dgp">For my part, I was less fortunate. I could not and would not + give up and become one of the ghosts below, and so I managed, by keeping on + deck and trying to act as if nothing was the matter, to lead a very uncertain + and precarious existence, though with a most awful undertone of emotion, which + seemed to make quite another thing of creation.</p> + <p class="dgp">I wonder that people who wanted to break the souls of heroes and + martyrs never thought of sending them to sea and keeping them a little seasick. + The dungeons of Olmutz, the leads of Venice, in short, all the naughty, wicked + places that tyrants ever invented for bringing down the spirits of heroes, are + nothing to the berth of a ship. Get Lafayette, Kossuth, or the noblest of + woman, born, prostrate in a swinging, dizzy berth of one of these sea coops, + called state rooms, and I'll warrant almost any compromise might be got out of + them.</p> + <p class="dgp">Where in the world the soul goes to under such influences nobody + knows; one would really think the sea tipped it all out of a man, just as it + does the water out of his wash basin. The soul seems to be like one of the + genii enclosed in a vase, in the Arabian Nights; now, it rises like a pillar of + cloud, and floats over land and sea, buoyant, many-hued, and glorious; again, + it goes down, down, subsiding into its copper vase, and the cover is clapped + on, and there you are. A sea voyage is the best device for getting the soul + back into its vase that I know of.</p> + <p class="dgp">But at night!—the beauties of a night on + shipboard!—down in your berth, with the sea hissing and fizzing, gurgling + and booming, within an inch of your ear; and then the steward conies along at + twelve o'clock and puts out your light, and there you are! Jonah in the whale + was not darker or more dismal. There, in profound ignorance and blindness, you + lie, and feel yourself rolled upwards, and downwards, and sidewise, and all + ways, like a cork in a tub of water; much such a sensation as one might suppose + it to be, were one headed up in a barrel and thrown into the sea.</p> + <p class="dgp">Occasionally a wave comes with a thump against your ear, as if a + great hammer were knocking on your barrel, to see that all within was safe and + sound. Then you begin to think of krakens, and sharks, and porpoises, and sea + serpents, and all the monstrous, slimy, cold, hobgoblin brood, who, perhaps, + are your next door neighbors; and the old blue-haired Ocean whispers through + the planks, "Here you are; I've got you. Your grand ship is my plaything. I can + do what I like with it."</p> + <p class="dgp">Then you hear every kind of odd noise in the + ship—creaking, straining, crunching, scraping, pounding, whistling, + blowing off steam, each of which to your unpractised ear is significant of some + impending catastrophe; you lie wide awake, listening with all your might, as if + your watching did any good, till at last sleep overcomes you, and the morning + light convinces you that nothing very particular has been the matter, and that + all these frightful noises are only the necessary attendants of what is called + a good run.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our voyage out was called "a good run." It was voted, + unanimously, to be "an extraordinarily good passage," "a pleasant voyage;" yet + the ship rocked the whole time from side to side with a steady, dizzy, + continuous motion, like a great cradle. I had a new sympathy for babies, poor + little things, who are rocked hours at a time without so much as a "by your + leave" in the case. No wonder there are so many stupid people in the world.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is no place where killing time is so much of a systematic + and avowed object as in one of these short runs. In a six months' voyage people + give up to their situation, and make arrangements to live a regular life; but + the ten days that now divide England and America are not long enough for any + thing. The great question is how to get them off; they are set up, like + tenpins, to be bowled at; and happy he whose ball prospers. People with strong + heads, who can stand the incessant swing of the boat, may read or write. Then + there is one's berth, a never-failing resort, where one may analyze at one's + leisure the life and emotions of an oyster in the mud. Walking the deck is a + means of getting off some half hours more. If a ship heaves in sight, or a + porpoise tumbles up, or, better still, a whale spouts, it makes an immense + sensation.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our favorite resort is by the old red smoke pipe of the steamer, + which rises warm and luminous as a sort of tower of defence. The wind must blow + an uncommon variety of ways at once when you cannot find a sheltered side, as + well as a place to warm your feet. In fact, the old smoke pipe is the domestic + hearth of the ship; there, with the double convenience of warmth and fresh air, + you can sit by the railing, and, looking down, command the prospect of the + cook's offices, the cow house, pantries, &c.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our cook has specially interested me—a tall, slender, + melancholy man, with a watery-blue eye, a patient, dejected visage, like an + individual weary of the storms and commotions of life, and thoroughly impressed + with the vanity of human wishes. I sit there hour after hour watching him, and + it is evident that he performs all his duties in this frame of sad composure. + Now I see him resignedly stuffing a turkey, anon compounding a sauce, or + mournfully making little ripples in the crust of a tart; but all is done under + an evident sense that it is of no use trying.</p> + <p class="dgp">Many complaints have been made of our coffee since we have been + on board, which, to say the truth, has been as unsettled as most of the social + questions of our day, and, perhaps, for that reason quite as generally + unpalatable; but since I have seen our cook, I am quite persuaded that the + coffee, like other works of great artists, has borrowed the hues of its maker's + mind. I think I hear him soliloquize over it—"To what purpose is + coffee?—of what avail tea?—thick or clear?—all is passing + away—a little egg, or fish skin, more or less, what are they?" and so we + get melancholy coffee and tea, owing to our philosophic cook.</p> + <p class="dgp">After dinner I watch him as he washes dishes: he hangs up a + whole row of tin; the ship gives a lurch, and knocks them all down. He looks as + if it was just what he expected. "Such is life!" he says, as he pursues a + frisky tin pan in one direction, and arrests the gambols of the ladle in + another; while the wicked sea, meanwhile, with another lurch, is upsetting all + his dishwater. I can see how these daily trials, this performing of most + delicate and complicated gastronomic operations in the midst of such unsteady, + unsettled circumstances, have gradually given this poor soul a despair of + living, and brought him into this state of philosophic melancholy. Just as + Xantippe made a sage of Socrates, this whisky, frisky, stormy ship life has + made a sage of our cook. Meanwhile, not to do him injustice, let it be + recorded, that in all dishes which require grave conviction and steady + perseverance, rather than hope and inspiration, he is eminently successful. Our + table excels in viands of a reflective and solemn character; mighty rounds of + beef, vast saddles of mutton, and the whole tribe of meats in general, come on + in a superior style. English plum pudding, a weighty and serious performance, + is exhibited in first-rate order. The jellies want lightness,—but that is + to be expected.</p> + <p class="dgp">I admire the thorough order and system with which every thing is + done on these ships. One day, when the servants came round, as they do at a + certain time after dinner, and screwed up the shelf of decanters and bottles + out of our reach, a German gentleman remarked, "Ah, that's always the way on + English ships; every thing done at such a time, without saying 'by your leave,' + If it had been on an American ship now, he would have said, 'Gentlemen, are you + ready to have this shelf raised?'"</p> + <p class="dgp">No doubt this remark is true and extends to a good many other + things; but in a ship in the middle of the ocean, when the least confusion or + irregularity in certain cases might be destruction to all on board, it does + inspire confidence to see that there is even in the minutest things a strong + and steady system, that goes on without saying "by your leave." Even the + rigidness with which lights are all extinguished at twelve o'clock, though it + is very hard in some cases, still gives you confidence in the watchfulness and + care with which all on board is conducted.</p> + <p class="dgp">On Sunday there was a service. We went into the cabin, and saw + prayer books arranged at regular intervals, and soon a procession of the + sailors neatly dressed filed in and took their places, together with such + passengers as felt disposed, and the order of morning prayer was read. The + sailors all looked serious and attentive. I could not but think that this + feature of the management of her majesty's ships was a good one, and worthy of + imitation. To be sure, one can say it is only a form. Granted; but is not a + serious, respectful <em>form</em> of religion better than nothing? Besides, I + am not willing to think that these intelligent-looking sailors could listen to + all those devout sentiments expressed in the prayers, and the holy truths + embodied in the passages of Scripture, and not gain something from it. It is + bad to have only <em>the form</em> of religion, but not so bad as to have + neither the form nor the fact.</p> + <p class="dgp">When the ship has been out about eight days, an evident + bettering of spirits and condition obtains among the passengers. Many of the + sick ones take heart, and appear again among the walks and ways of men; the + ladies assemble in little knots, and talk of getting on shore. The more knowing + ones, who have travelled before, embrace this opportunity to show their + knowledge of life by telling the new hands all sorts of hobgoblin stories about + the custom house officers and the difficulties of getting landed in England. It + is a curious fact, that old travellers generally seem to take this particular + delight in striking consternation into younger ones.</p> + <p class="dgp">"You'll have all your daguerreotypes taken away," says one lady, + who, in right of having crossed the ocean nine times, is entitled to speak + <em>ex cathedra</em> on the subject.</p> + <p class="dgp">"All our daguerreotypes!" shriek four or five at once. "Pray + tell, what for?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"They <em>will</em> do it," says the knowing lady, with an awful + nod; "unless you hide them, and all your books, they'll burn up—"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Burn our books!" exclaim the circle. "O, dreadful! What do they + do that for?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"They're very particular always to burn up all your books. I + knew a lady who had a dozen burned," says the wise one.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Dear me! will they take our <em>dresses</em>?" says a young + lady, with increasing alarm.</p> + <p class="dgp">"No, but they'll pull every thing out, and tumble them well + over, I can tell you."</p> + <p class="dgp">"How horrid!"</p> + <p class="dgp">An old lady, who has been very sick all the way, is revived by + this appalling intelligence.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I hope they won't tumble over my <em>caps!</em>" she + exclaims.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Yes, they will have every thing out on deck," says the lady, + delighted with the increasing sensation. "I tell you you don't know these + custom house officers."</p> + <p class="dgp">"It's too bad!" "It's dreadful!" "How horrid!" exclaim all.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I shall put my best things in my pocket," exclaims one. "They + don't search our pockets, do they?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Well, no, not here; but I tell you they'll search your + <em>pockets</em> at Antwerp and Brussels," says the lady.</p> + <p class="dgp">Somebody catches the sound, and flies off into the state rooms + with the intelligence that "the custom house officers are so + dreadful—they rip open your trunks, pull out all your things, burn your + books, take away your daguerreotypes, and even search your pockets;" and a row + of groans is heard ascending from the row of state rooms, as all begin to + revolve what they have in their trunks, and what they are to do in this + emergency.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Pray tell me," said I to a gentlemanly man, who had crossed + four or five times, "is there really so much annoyance at the custom + house?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Annoyance, ma'am? No, not the slightest."</p> + <p class="dgp">"But do they really turn out the contents of the trunks, and + take away people's daguerreotypes, and burn their books?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Nothing of the kind, ma'am. I apprehend no difficulty. I never + had any. There are a few articles on which duty is charged. I have a case of + cigars, for instance; I shall show them to the custom house officer, and pay + the duty. If a person seems disposed to be fair, there is no difficulty. The + examination of ladies' trunks is merely nominal; nothing is deranged."</p> + <p class="dgp">So it proved. We arrived on Sunday morning; the custom house + officers, very gentlemanly men, came on board; our luggage was all set out, and + passed through a rapid examination, which in many cases amounted only to + opening the trunk and shutting it, and all was over. The whole ceremony did not + occupy two hours.</p> + <p class="dgp">So ends this letter. You shall hear further how we landed at + some future time.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_19" name="toc_19"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter II</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear + Father</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">It was on Sunday morning that we first came in sight of land. + The day was one of a thousand—clear, calm, and bright. It is one of those + strange, throbbing feelings, that come only once in a while in life; this + waking up to find an ocean crossed and long-lost land restored again in another + hemisphere; something like what we should suppose might be the thrill of + awakening from life to immortality, and all the wonders of the world unknown. + That low, green line of land in the horizon is Ireland; and we, with water + smooth as a lake and sails furled, are running within a mile of the shore. + Every body on deck, full of spirits and expectation, busy as can be looking + through spyglasses, and exclaiming at every object on shore,—</p> + <p class="dgp">"Look! there's Skibareen, where the worst of the famine was," + says one.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Look! that's a ruined Martello tower," says another.</p> + <p class="dgp">We new voyagers, who had never seen any ruin more imposing than + that of a cow house, and, of course, were ravenous for old towers, were now + quite wide awake, but were disappointed to learn that these were only custom + house rendezvous. Here is the county of Cork. Some one calls out,—</p> + <p class="dgp">"There is O'Connell's house;" and a warm dispute ensues whether + a large mansion, with a stone chapel by it, answers to that name. At all events + the region looks desolate enough, and they say the natives of it are almost + savages. A passenger remarks, that "O'Connell never really did any thing for + the Irish, but lived on his capacity for exciting their enthusiasm." Thereupon + another expresses great contempt for the Irish who could be so taken in. + Nevertheless, the capability of a disinterested enthusiasm is, on the whole, a + nobler property of a human being than a shrewd self-interest. I like the Irish + all the better for it.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now we pass Kinsale lighthouse; there is the spot where the + Albion was wrecked. It is a bare, frowning cliff, with walls of rock rising + perpendicularly out of the sea. Now, to be sure, the sea smiles and sparkles + around the base of it, as gently as if it never could storm; yet under other + skies, and with a fierce south-east wind, how the waves would pour in here! Woe + then to the distressed and rudderless vessel that drifts towards those fatal + rocks! This gives the outmost and boldest view of the point.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image2.png" + alt="View East of Kinsale." /></p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">View East of Kinsale.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Albion struck just round the left of the point, where the + rock rises perpendicularly out of the sea. I well remember, when a child, of + the newspapers being filled with the dreadful story of the wreck of the ship + Albion—how for hours, rudderless and helpless, they saw themselves + driving with inevitable certainty against these pitiless rocks; and how, in the + last struggle, one human being after another was dashed against them in + helpless agony.</p> + <p class="dgp">What an infinite deal of misery results from man's helplessness + and ignorance and nature's inflexibility in this one matter of crossing the + ocean! What agonies of prayer there were during all the long hours that this + ship was driving straight on to these fatal rocks, all to no purpose! It struck + and crushed just the same. Surely, without the revelation of God in Jesus, who + could believe in the divine goodness? I do not wonder the old Greeks so often + spoke of their gods as cruel, and believed the universe was governed by a + remorseless and inexorable fate. Who would come to any other conclusion, except + from the pages of the Bible?</p> + <p class="dgp">But we have sailed far past Kinsale point. Now blue and shadowy + loom up the distant form of the Youghal Mountains, (pronounced <em>Yoole</em>.) + The surface of the water is alive with fishing boats, spreading their white + wings and skimming about like so many moth millers.</p> + <p class="dgp">About nine o'clock we were crossing the sand bar, which lies at + the mouth of the Mersey River, running up towards Liverpool. Our signal + pennants are fluttering at the mast head, pilot full of energy on one wheel + house, and a man casting the lead on the other.</p> + <p class="dgp">"By the mark, five," says the man. The pilot, with all his + energy, is telegraphing to the steersman. This is a very close and complicated + piece of navigation, I should think, this running up the Mersey, for every + moment we are passing some kind of a signal token, which warns off from some + shoal. Here is a bell buoy, where the waves keep the bell always tolling; here, + a buoyant lighthouse; and "See there, those shoals, how pokerish they look!" + says one of the passengers, pointing to the foam on our starboard bow. All is + bustle, animation, exultation. Now float out the American stars and stripes on + our bow.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before us lies the great city of Liverpool. No old Cathedral, no + castles, a real New Yorkish place.</p> + <p class="dgp">"There, that's the fort," cries one. Bang, bang, go the two guns + from our forward gangway.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I wonder if they will fire from the fort," says another.</p> + <p class="dgp">"How green that grass looks!" says a third; "and what pretty + cottages!"</p> + <p class="dgp">"All modern, though," says somebody, in tones of disappointment. + Now we are passing the Victoria Dock. Bang, bang, again. We are in a forest of + ships of all nations; their masts bristling like the tall pines in Maine; their + many colored flags streaming like the forest leaves in autumn.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Hark," says one; "there's, a chime of bells from the city; how + sweet! I had quite forgotten it was Sunday."</p> + <p class="dgp">Here we cast anchor, and the small steam tender conies puffing + alongside. Now for the custom house officers. State rooms, holds, and cabins + must all give up their trunks; a general muster among the baggage, and + passenger after passenger comes forward as their names are called, much as + follows: "Snooks." "Here, sir." "Any thing contraband here, Mr. Snooks? Any + cigars, tobacco, &c.?" "Nothing, sir."</p> + <p class="dgp">A little unlocking, a little fumbling. "Shut up; all right; + ticket here." And a little man pastes on each article a slip of paper, with the + royal arms of England and the magical letters V.R., to remind all men that they + have come into a country where a lady reigns, and of course must behave + themselves as prettily as they can.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were inquiring of some friends for the most convenient hotel, + when we found the son of Mr. Cropper, of Dingle Bank, waiting in the cabin, to + take us with him to their hospitable abode. In a few moments after the baggage + had been examined, we all bade adieu to the old ship, and went on board the + little steam tender, which carries passengers up to the city.</p> + <p class="dgp">This Mersey River would be a very beautiful one, if it were not + so dingy and muddy. As we are sailing up in the tender towards Liverpool, I + deplore the circumstance feelingly. "What does make this river so muddy?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"O," says a bystander, "don't you know that</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">'The quality of mercy is not strained'?"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">And now we are fairly alongside the shore, and we are soon + going to set our foot on the land of Old England.</p> + <p class="dgp">Say what we will, an American, particularly a New Englander, can + never approach the old country without a kind of thrill and pulsation of + kindred. Its history for two centuries was our history. Its literature, laws, + and language are our literature, laws, and language. Spenser, Shakspeare, + Bacon, Milton, were a glorious inheritance, which we share in common. Our very + life-blood is English life-blood. It is Anglo-Saxon vigor that is spreading our + country from Atlantic to Pacific, and leading on a new era in the world's + development. America is a tall, sightly young shoot, that has grown from the + old royal oak of England; divided from its parent root, it has shot up in new, + rich soil, and under genial, brilliant skies, and therefore takes on a new type + of growth and foliage, but the sap in it is the same.</p> + <p class="dgp">I had an early opportunity of making acquaintance with my + English brethren; for, much to my astonishment, I found quite a crowd on the + wharf, and we walked up to our carriage through a long lane of people, bowing, + and looking very glad to see us. When I came to get into the hack it was + surrounded by more faces than I could count. They stood very quietly, and + looked very kindly, though evidently very much determined to look. Something + prevented the hack from moving on; so the interview was prolonged for some + time. I therefore took occasion to remark the very fair, pure complexions, the + clear eyes, and the general air of health and vigor, which seem to characterize + our brethren and sisters of the island. There seemed to be no occasion to ask + them, how they did, as they were evidently quite well. Indeed, this air of + health is one of the most striking things when one lands in England.</p> + <p class="dgp">They were not burly, red-faced, and stout, as I had sometimes + conceived of the English people, but just full enough to suggest the idea of + vigor and health. The presence of so many healthy, rosy people looking at me, + all reduced as I was, first by land and then by sea sickness, made me feel + myself more withered and forlorn than ever. But there was an earnestness and a + depth of kind feeling in some of the faces, which I shall long remember. It + seemed as if I had not only touched the English shore, but felt the English + heart.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our carriage at last drove on, taking us through Liverpool, and + a mile or two out, and at length wound its way along the gravel paths of a + beautiful little retreat, on the banks of the Mersey, called the "Dingle." It + opened to my eyes like a paradise, all wearied as I was with the tossing of the + sea. I have since become familiar with these beautiful little spots, which are + so common in England; but now all was entirely new to me.</p> + <p class="dgp">We rode by shining clumps of the Portugal laurel, a beautiful + evergreen, much resembling our mountain rhododendron; then there was the + prickly, polished, dark-green holly, which I had never seen before, but which + is, certainly, one of the most perfect of shrubs. The turf was of that soft, + dazzling green, and had that peculiar velvet-like smoothness, which seem + characteristic of England. We stopped at last before the door of a cottage, + whose porch was overgrown with ivy. From that moment I ceased to feel myself a + stranger in England. I cannot tell you how delightful to me, dizzy and weary as + I was, was the first sight of the chamber of reception which had been prepared + for us. No item of cozy comfort that one could desire was omitted. The sofa and + easy chair wheeled up before a cheerful coal fire, a bright little teakettle + steaming in front of the grate, a table with a beautiful vase of flowers, + books, and writing apparatus, and kind friends with words full of affectionate + cheer,—all these made me feel at home in a moment.</p> + <p class="dgp">The hospitality of England has become famous in the world, and, + I think, with reason. I doubt not there is just as much hospitable feeling in + other countries; but in England the matter of coziness and home comfort has + been so studied, and matured, and reduced to system, that they really have it + in their power to effect more, towards making their guests comfortable, than + perhaps any other people.</p> + <p class="dgp">After a short season allotted to changing our ship garments and + for rest, we found ourselves seated at the dinner table. While dining, the + sister-in-law of our friends came in from the next door, to exchange a word or + two of welcome, and invite us to breakfast with them the following morning.</p> + <p class="dgp">Between all the excitements of landing, and meeting so many new + faces, and the remains of the dizzy motion of the ship, which still haunted me, + I found it impossible to close my eyes to sleep that first night till the dim + gray of dawn. I got up as soon as it was light, and looked out of the window; + and as my eyes fell on the luxuriant, ivy-covered porch, the clumps of shining, + dark-green holly bushes, I said to myself, "Ah, really, this is England!"</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image3.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">I never saw any plant that struck me as more beautiful than this + holly. It is a dense shrub growing from six to eight feet high, with a thickly + varnished leaf of green. The outline of the leaf is something like this. I do + not believe it can ever come to a state of perfect development under the fierce + alternations of heat and cold which obtain in our New England climate, though + it grows in the Southern States. It is one of the symbolical shrubs of England, + probably because its bright green in winter makes it so splendid a Christmas + decoration. A little bird sat twittering on one of the sprays. He had a bright + red breast, and seemed evidently to consider himself of good blood and family, + with the best reason, as I afterwards learned, since he was no other than the + identical robin redbreast renowned in song and story; undoubtedly a lineal + descendant of that very cock robin whose death and burial form so vivid a + portion of our childish literature.</p> + <p class="dgp">I must tell you, then, as one of the first remarks on matters + and things here in England, that "robin redbreast" is not at all the fellow we + in America take him to be. The character who flourishes under that name among + us is quite a different bird; he is twice as large, and has altogether a + different air, and as he sits up with military erectness on a rail fence or + stump, shows not even a family likeness to his diminutive English namesake. + Well, of course, robin over here will claim to have the real family estate and + title, since he lives in a country where such matters are understood and looked + into. Our robin is probably some fourth cousin, who, like others, has struck + out a new course for himself in America, and thrives upon it.</p> + <p class="dgp">We hurried to dress, remembering our engagements to breakfast + this morning with a brother of our host, whose cottage stands on the same + ground, within a few steps of our own. I had not the slightest idea of what the + English mean by a breakfast, and therefore went in all innocence, supposing + that I should see nobody but the family circle of my acquaintances. Quite to my + astonishment, I found a party of between thirty and forty people. Ladies + sitting with their bonnets on, as in a morning call. It was impossible, + however, to feel more than a momentary embarrassment in the friendly warmth and + cordiality of the circle by whom we were surrounded.</p> + <p class="dgp">The English are called cold and stiff in their manners; I had + always heard they were so, but I certainly saw nothing of it here. A circle of + family relatives could not have received us with more warmth and kindness. The + remark which I made mentally, as my eye passed around the circle, + was—Why, these people are just like home; they look like us, and the tone + of sentiment and feeling is precisely such as I have been accustomed to; I mean + with the exception of the antislavery question.</p> + <p class="dgp">That question has, from the very first, been, in England, a + deeply religious movement. It was conceived and carried on by men of devotional + habits, in the same spirit in which the work of foreign missions was undertaken + in our own country; by just such earnest, self-denying, devout men as Samuel J. + Mills and Jeremiah Evarts.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was encountered by the same contempt and opposition, in the + outset, from men of merely worldly habits and principles; and to this day it + retains that hold on the devotional mind of the English nation that the foreign + mission cause does in America.</p> + <p class="dgp">Liverpool was at first to the antislavery cause nearly what New + York has been with us. Its commercial interests were largely implicated in the + slave trade, and the virulence of opposition towards the first movers of the + antislavery reform in Liverpool was about as great as it is now against + abolitionists in Charleston.</p> + <p class="dgp">When Clarkson first came here to prosecute his inquiries into + the subject, a mob collected around him, and endeavored to throw him off the + dock into the water; he was rescued by a gentleman, some of whose descendants I + met on this occasion.</p> + <p class="dgp">The father of our host, Mr. Cropper, was one of the first and + most efficient supporters of the cause in Liverpool; and the whole circle was + composed of those who had taken a deep interest in that struggle. The wife of + our host was the daughter of the celebrated Lord Chief Justice Denman, a man + who, for many years, stood unrivalled, at the head of the legal mind in + England, and who, with a generous ardor seldom equalled, devoted all his + energies to this sacred cause.</p> + <p class="dgp">When the publication of Uncle Tom's Cabin turned the attention + of the British public to the existing horrors of slavery in America, some + palliations of the system appeared in English papers. Lord Denman, though then + in delicate health and advanced years, wrote a series of letters upon the + subject—an exertion which entirely prostrated his before feeble health. + In one of the addresses made at table, a very feeling allusion was made to Lord + Denman's labors, and also to those of the honored father of the two Messrs. + Cropper.</p> + <p class="dgp">As breakfast parties are things which we do not have in America, + perhaps mother would like to know just how they are managed. The hour is + generally somewhere between nine and twelve, and the whole idea and spirit of + the thing is that of an informal and social gathering. Ladies keep their + bonnets on, and are not dressed in full toilet. On this occasion we sat and + chatted together socially till the whole party was assembled in the drawing + room, and then breakfast was announced. Each gentleman had a lady assigned him, + and we walked into the dining room, where stood the tables tastefully adorned + with flowers, and spread with an abundant cold collation, while tea and coffee + were passed round by servants. In each plate was a card, containing the name of + the person for whom it was designed. I took my place by the side of the Rev. + Dr. McNiel, one of the most celebrated clergymen of the established church in + Liverpool.</p> + <p class="dgp">The conversation was flowing, free, and friendly. The old + reminiscences of the antislavery conflict in England were touchingly recalled, + and the warmest sympathy was expressed for those in America who are carrying on + the same cause.</p> + <p class="dgp">In one thing I was most agreeably disappointed. I had been told + that the Christians of England were intolerant and unreasonable in their + opinions on this subject; that they could not be made to understand the + peculiar difficulties which beset it in America, and that they therefore made + no distinction and no allowance in their censures. All this I found, so far as + this circle were concerned, to be strikingly untrue. They appeared to be + peculiarly affectionate in their feelings as regarded our country; to have the + highest appreciation of, and the deepest sympathy with, our religious + community, and to be extremely desirous to assist us in our difficulties. I + also found them remarkably well informed upon the subject. They keep their eyes + upon our papers, our public documents and speeches in Congress, and are as well + advised in regard to the progress of the moral conflict as our Foreign + Missionary Society is with the state of affairs in Hindostan and Burmah.</p> + <p class="dgp">Several present spoke of the part which England originally had + in planting slavery in America, as placing English Christians under a solemn + responsibility to bring every possible moral influence to bear for its + extinction. Nevertheless, they seem to be the farthest possible from an unkind + or denunciatory spirit, even towards those most deeply implicated. The remarks + made by Dr. McNiel to me were a fair sample of the spirit and attitude of all + present.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I have been trying, Mrs. S.," he said, "to bring my mind into + the attitude of those Christians at the south who defend the institution of + slavery. There are <em>real</em> Christians there who do this—are there + not?"</p> + <p class="dgp">I replied, that undoubtedly there were some most amiable and + Christian people who defend slavery on principle, just as there had been some + to defend every form of despotism.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Do give me some idea of the views they take; it is something to + me so inconceivable. I am utterly at a loss how it can be made in any way + plausible."</p> + <p class="dgp">I then stated that the most plausible view, and that which + seemed to have the most force with good men, was one which represented the + institution of slavery as a sort of wardship or guardian relation, by which an + inferior race were brought under the watch and care of a superior race to be + instructed in Christianity.</p> + <p class="dgp">He then inquired if there was any system of religious + instruction actually pursued.</p> + <p class="dgp">In reply to this, I gave him some sketch of the operations for + the religious instruction of the negroes, which had been carried on by the + Presbyterian and other denominations. I remarked that many good people who do + not take very extended views, fixing their attention chiefly on the efforts + which they are making for the religious instruction of slaves, are blind to the + sin and injustice of allowing their legal position to remain what it is.</p> + <p class="dgp">"But how do they shut their eyes to the various cruelties of the + system,—the separation of families—the domestic slave trade?"</p> + <p class="dgp">I replied, "In part, by not inquiring into them. The best kind + of people are, in general, those who <em>know</em> least of the cruelties of + the system; they never witness them. As in the city of London or Liverpool + there may be an amount of crime and suffering which many residents may live + years without seeing or knowing, so it is in the slave states."</p> + <p class="dgp">Every person present appeared to be in that softened and + charitable frame of mind which disposed them to make every allowance for the + situation of Christians so peculiarly tempted, while, at the same time, there + was the most earnest concern, in view of the dishonor brought upon Christianity + by the defence of such a system.</p> + <p class="dgp">One other thing I noticed, which was an agreeable disappointment + to me. I had been told that there was no social intercourse between the + established church and dissenters. In this party, however, were people of many + different denominations. Our host belongs to the established church; his + brother, with whom we are visiting, is a Baptist, and their father was a + Friend; and there appeared to be the utmost social cordiality. Whether I shall + find this uniformly the case will appear in time.</p> + <p class="dgp">After the breakfast party was over, I found at the door an array + of children of the poor, belonging to a school kept under the superintendence + of Mrs. E. Cropper, and called, as is customary here, a ragged school. The + children, however, were any thing but ragged, being tidily dressed, remarkably + clean, with glowing cheeks and bright eyes. I must say, so far as I have seen + them, English children have a much healthier appearance than those of America. + By the side of their bright bloom ours look pale and faded.</p> + <p class="dgp">Another school of the same kind is kept in this neighborhood, + under the auspices of Sir George Stephen, a conspicuous advocate of the + antislavery cause.</p> + <p class="dgp">I thought the fair patroness of this school seemed not a little + delighted with the appearance of her protégés, as they sung, with + great enthusiasm, Jane Taylor's hymn, commencing,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"I thank the goodness and the grace</p> + <p class="l">That on my birth have smiled,</p> + <p class="l">And made me in these Christian days</p> + <p class="l">A happy English child."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">All the little rogues were quite familiar with Topsy and + Eva, and <em>au fait</em> in the fortunes of Uncle Tom; so that, being + introduced as the maternal relative of these characters, I seemed to find favor + in their eyes. And when one of the speakers congratulated them that they were + born in a land where no child could be bought or sold, they responded with + enthusiastic cheers—cheers which made me feel rather sad; but still I + could not quarrel with English people for taking all the pride and all the + comfort which this inspiriting truth can convey.</p> + <p class="dgp">They had a hard enough struggle in rooting up the old weed of + slavery, to justify them in rejoicing in their freedom. Well, the day will come + in America, as I trust, when as much can be said for us.</p> + <p class="dgp">After the children were gone came a succession of calls; some + from very aged people, the veterans of the old antislavery cause. I was + astonished and overwhelmed by the fervor of feeling some of them manifested; + there seemed to be something almost prophetic in the enthusiasm with which they + expressed their hope of our final success in America. This excitement, though + very pleasant, was wearisome, and I was glad of an opportunity after dinner to + rest myself, by rambling uninterrupted, with my friends, through the beautiful + grounds of the Dingle.</p> + <p class="dgp">Two nice little boys were my squires on this occasion, one of + whom, a sturdy little fellow, on being asked his name, gave it to me in full as + Joseph Babington Macaulay, and I learned that his mother, by a former marriage, + had been the wife of Macaulay's brother. Uncle Tom Macaulay, I found, was a + favorite character with the young people. Master Harry conducted me through the + walks to the conservatories, all brilliant with azaleas and all sorts of + flowers, and then through a long walk on the banks of the Mersey.</p> + <p class="dgp">Here the wild flowers attracted my attention, as being so + different from those of our own country. Their daisy is not our flower, with + its wide, plaited ruff and yellow centre. The English daisy is</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The wee modest crimson-tipped flower,"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">which Burns celebrates. It is what we raise in greenhouses, + and call the mountain daisy. Its effect, growing profusely about fields and + grass plats, is very beautiful.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image4.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">We read much, among the poets, of the primrose,</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Earliest daughter of the Spring."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">This flower is one, also, which we cultivate in gardens to + some extent. The outline of it is as follows: The hue a delicate straw color; + it grows in tufts in shady places, and has a pure, serious look, which reminds + one of the line of Shakspeare—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Pale primroses, which die unmarried."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image5.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">It has also the faintest and most ethereal perfume,—a + perfume that seems to come and go in the air like music; and you perceive it at + a little distance from a tuft of them, when you would not if you gathered and + smelled them. On the whole, the primrose is a poet's and a painter's flower. An + artist's eye would notice an exquisite harmony between the yellow-green hue of + its leaves and the tint of its blossoms. I do not wonder that it has been so + great a favorite among the poets. It is just such a flower as Mozart and + Raphael would have loved.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image6.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">Then there is the bluebell, a bulb, which also grows in deep + shades. It is a little purple bell, with a narrow green leaf, like a ribbon. We + often read in English stories, of the gorse and furze; these are two names for + the same plant, a low bush, with strong, prickly leaves, growing much like a + juniper. The contrast of its very brilliant yellow, pea-shaped blossoms, with + the dark green of its leaves, is very beautiful. It grows here in hedges and on + commons, and is thought rather a plebeian affair. I think it would make quite + an addition to our garden shrubbery. Possibly it might make as much sensation + with us as our mullein does in foreign greenhouses.</p> + <p class="dgp">After rambling a while, we came to a beautiful summer house, + placed in a retired spot, so as to command a view of the Mersey River. I think + they told me that it was Lord Denman's favorite seat. There we sat down, and in + common with the young gentlemen and ladies of the family, had quite a pleasant + talk together. Among other things we talked about the question which is now + agitating the public mind a good deal,—Whether it is expedient to open + the Crystal Palace to the people on Sunday. They said that this course was much + urged by some philanthropists, on the ground that it was the only day when the + working classes could find any leisure to visit it, and that it seemed hard to + shut them out entirely from all the opportunities and advantages which they + might thus derive; that to exclude the laborer from recreation on the Sabbath, + was the same as saying that he should never have any recreation. I asked, why + the philanthropists could not urge employers to give their workmen a part of + Saturday for this purpose; as it seemed to me unchristian to drive trade so + that the laboring man had no time but Sunday for intellectual and social + recreation. We rather came to the conclusion that this was the right course; + whether the people of England will, is quite another matter.</p> + <p class="dgp">The grounds of the Dingle embrace three cottages; those of the + two Messrs. Cropper, and that of a son, who is married to a daughter of Dr. + Arnold. I rather think this way of relatives living together is more common + here in England than it is in America; and there is more idea of home + permanence connected with the family dwelling-place than with us, where the + country is so wide, and causes of change and removal so frequent. A man builds + a house in England with the expectation of living in it and leaving it to his + children; while we shed our houses in America as easily as a snail does his + shell. We live a while in Boston, and then a while in New York, and then, + perhaps, turn up at Cincinnati. Scarcely any body with us is living where they + expect to live and die. The man that dies in the house he was born in is a + wonder. There is something pleasant in the permanence and repose of the English + family estate, which we, in America, know very little of. All which is apropos + to our having finished our walk, and got back to the ivy-covered porch + again.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next day at breakfast, it was arranged that we should take a + drive out to Speke Hall, an old mansion, which is considered a fine specimen of + ancient house architecture. So the carriage was at the door. It was a cool, + breezy, April morning, but there was an abundance of wrappers and carriage + blankets provided to keep us comfortable. I must say, by the by, that English + housekeepers are bountiful in their provision for carriage comfort. Every + household has a store of warm, loose over garments, which are offered, if + needed, to the guests; and each carriage is provided with one or two blankets, + manufactured and sold expressly for this use, to envelope one's feet and limbs; + besides all which, should the weather be cold, comes out a long stone + reservoir, made flat on both sides, and filled with hot water, for foot stools. + This is an improvement on the primitive simplicity of hot bricks, and even on + the tin foot stove, which has nourished in New England.</p> + <p class="dgp">Being thus provided with all things necessary for comfort, we + rattled merrily away, and I, remembering that I was in England, kept my eyes + wide open to see what I could see. The hedges of the fields were just budding, + and the green showed itself on them, like a thin gauze veil. These hedges are + not all so well kept and trimmed as I expected to find them. Some, it is true, + are cut very carefully; these are generally hedges to ornamental grounds; but + many of those which separate the fields straggle and sprawl, and have some high + bushes and some low ones, and, in short, are no more like a hedge than many + rows of bushes that we have at home. But such as they are, they are the only + dividing lines of the fields, and it is certainly a more picturesque mode of + division than our stone or worm fences. Outside of every hedge, towards the + street, there is generally a ditch, and at the bottom of the hedge is the + favorite nestling-place for all sorts of wild flowers. I remember reading in + stories about children trying to crawl through a gap in the hedge to get at + flowers, and tumbling into a ditch on the other side, and I now saw exactly how + they could do it.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we drive we pass by many beautiful establishments, about of + the quality of our handsomest country houses, but whose grounds are kept with a + precision and exactness rarely to be seen among us. We cannot get the gardeners + who are qualified to do it; and if we could, the painstaking, slow way of + proceeding, and the habit of creeping thoroughness, which are necessary to + accomplish such results, die out in America. Nevertheless, such grounds are + exceedingly beautiful to look upon, and I was much obliged to the owners of + these places for keeping their gates hospitably open, as seems to be the custom + here.</p> + <p class="dgp">After a drive of seven or eight miles, we alighted in front of + Speke Hall. This house is a specimen of the old fortified houses of England, + and was once fitted up with a moat and drawbridge, all in approved feudal + style. It was built somewhere about the year 1500. The sometime moat was now + full of smooth, green grass, and the drawbridge no longer remains.</p> + <p class="dgp">This was the first really old thing that we had seen since our + arrival in England. We came up first to a low, arched, stone door, and knocked + with a great old-fashioned knocker; this brought no answer but a treble and + bass duet from a couple of dogs inside; so we opened the door, and saw a square + court, paved with round stones, and a dark, solitary yew tree in the centre. + Here in England, I think, they have vegetable creations made on purpose to go + with old, dusky buildings; and this yew tree is one of them. It has altogether + a most goblin-like, bewitched air, with its dusky black leaves and ragged + branches, throwing themselves straight out with odd twists and angular lines, + and might put one in mind of an old raven with some of his feathers pulled out, + or a black cat with her hair stroked the wrong way, or any other strange, + uncanny thing. Besides this they live almost forever; for when they have grown + so old that any respectable tree ought to be thinking of dying, they only take + another twist, and so live on another hundred years. I saw some in England + seven hundred years old, and they had grown queerer every century. It is a + species of evergreen, and its leaf resembles our hemlock, only it is longer. + This sprig gives you some idea of its general form. It is always planted about + churches and graveyards; a kind of dismal emblem of immortality. This + sepulchral old tree and the bass and treble dogs were the only occupants of the + court. One of these, a great surly mastiff, barked out of his kennel on one + side, and the other, a little wiry terrier, out of his on the opposite side, + and both strained on their chains, as if they would enjoy making even more + decided demonstrations if they could.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image7.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">There was an aged, mossy fountain for holy water by the side of + the wall, in which some weeds were growing. A door in the house was soon opened + by a decent-looking serving woman, to whom we communicated our desire to see + the hall.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were shown into a large dining hall with a stone floor, + wainscoted with carved oak, almost as black as ebony. There were some pious + sentences and moral reflections inscribed in old English text, carved over the + doors, and like a cornice round the ceiling, which was also of carved oak. + Their general drift was, to say that life is short, and to call for + watchfulness and prayer. The fireplace of the hall yawned like a great cavern, + and nothing else, one would think, than a cart load of western sycamores could + have supplied an appropriate fire. A great two-handed sword of some ancestor + hung over the fireplace. On taking it down it reached to C——'s + shoulder, who, you know, is six feet high.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went into a sort of sitting room, and looked out through a + window, latticed with little diamond panes, upon a garden wildly beautiful. The + lattice was all wreathed round with jessamines. The furniture of this room was + modern, and it seemed the more unique from its contrast with the old + architecture.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went up stairs to see the chambers, and passed through a + long, narrow, black oak corridor, whose slippery boards had the authentic + ghostly squeak to them. There was a chamber, hung with old, faded tapestry of + Scripture subjects. In this chamber there was behind the tapestry a door, + which, being opened, displayed a staircase, that led delightfully off to nobody + knows where. The furniture was black oak, carved, in the most elaborate manner, + with cherubs' heads and other good and solemn subjects, calculated to produce a + ghostly state of mind. And, to crown all, we heard that there was a haunted + chamber, which was not to be opened, where a white lady appeared and walked at + all approved hours.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now, only think what a foundation for a story is here. If our + Hawthorne could conjure up such a thing as the Seven Gables in one of our + prosaic country towns, what would he have done if he had lived here? Now he is + obliged to get his ghostly images by looking through smoked glass at our + square, cold realities; but one such old place as this is a standing romance. + Perhaps it may add to the effect to say, that the owner of the house is a + bachelor, who lives there very retired, and employs himself much in + reading.</p> + <p class="dgp">The housekeeper, who showed us about, indulged us with a view of + the kitchen, whose snowy, sanded floor and resplendent polished copper and tin, + were sights for a housekeeper to take away in her heart of hearts. The good + woman produced her copy of Uncle Tom, and begged the favor of my autograph, + which I gave, thinking it quite a happy thing to be able to do a favor at so + cheap a rate.</p> + <p class="dgp">After going over the house we wandered through the grounds, + which are laid out with the same picturesque mixture of the past and present. + There was a fine grove, under whose shadows we walked, picking primroses, and + otherwise enacting the poetic, till it was time to go. As we passed out, we + were again saluted with a <em>feu de joie</em> by the two fidelities at the + door, which we took in very good part, since it is always respectable to be + thorough in whatever you are set to do.</p> + <p class="dgp">Coming home we met with an accident to the carriage which + obliged us to get out and walk some distance. I was glad enough of it, because + it gave me a better opportunity for seeing the country. We stopped at a cottage + to get some rope, and a young woman came out with that beautiful, clear + complexion which I so much admire here in England; literally her cheeks were + like damask roses.</p> + <p class="dgp">I told Isa I wanted to see as much of the interior of the + cottages as I could; and so, as we were walking onward toward home, we managed + to call once or twice, on the excuse of asking the way and distance. The + exterior was very neat, being built of brick or stone, and each had attached to + it a little flower garden. Isa said that the cottagers often offered them a + slice of bread or tumbler of milk.</p> + <p class="dgp">They have a way here of building the cottages two or three in a + block together, which struck me as different from our New England manner, + where, in the country, every house stands detached.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening I went into Liverpool, to attend a party of + friends of the antislavery cause. In the course of the evening, Mr. Stowe was + requested to make some remarks. Among other things he spoke upon the support + the free part of the world give to slavery, by the purchase of the produce of + slave labor; and, in particular, on the great quantity of slave-grown cotton + purchased by England; suggesting it as a subject for inquiry, whether this + cannot be avoided.</p> + <p class="dgp">One or two gentlemen, who are largely concerned in the + manufacture and importation of cotton, spoke to him on the subject afterwards, + and said it was a thing which ought to be very seriously considered. It is + probable that the cotton trade of Great Britain is the great essential item + which supports slavery, and such considerations ought not, therefore, to be + without their results.</p> + <p class="dgp">When I was going away, the lady of the house said that the + servants were anxious to see me; so I came into the dressing room to give them, + an opportunity.</p> + <p class="dgp">While at Mr. C.'s, also, I had once or twice been called out to + see servants, who had come in to visit those of the family. All of them had + read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were full of sympathy. Generally speaking, the + servants seem to me quite a superior class to what are employed in that + capacity with us. They look very intelligent, are dressed with great neatness, + and though their manners are very much more deferential than those of servants + in our country, it appears to be a difference arising quite as much from + self-respect and a sense of propriety as from servility. Every body's manners + are more deferential in England than in America.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next day was appointed to leave Liverpool. It had been + arranged that, before leaving, we should meet the ladies of the Negroes' Friend + Society, an association formed at the time of the original antislavery + agitation in England. We went in the carriage with our friends Mr. and Mrs. E. + Cropper. On the way they were conversing upon the labors of Mrs. Chisholm, the + celebrated female philanthropist, whose efforts for the benefit of emigrants + are awakening a very general interest among all classes in England. They said + there had been hesitation on the part of some good people, in regard to + coöperating with her, because she is a Roman Catholic.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was agreed among us, that the great humanities of the present + day are a proper ground on which all sects can unite, and that if any feared + the extension of wrong sentiments, they had only to supply emigrant ships more + abundantly with the Bible. Mr. C. said that this is a movement exciting very + extensive interest, and that they hoped Mrs. Chisholm would visit Liverpool + before long.</p> + <p class="dgp">The meeting was a very interesting one. The style of feeling + expressed in all the remarks was tempered by a deep and earnest remembrance of + the share which England originally had in planting the evil of slavery in the + civilized world, and her consequent obligation, as a Christian nation, now not + to cease her efforts until the evil is extirpated, not merely from her own + soil, but from all lands.</p> + <p class="dgp">The feeling towards America was respectful and friendly, and the + utmost sympathy was expressed with her in the difficulties with which she is + environed by this evil. The tone of the meeting was deeply earnest and + religious. They presented us with a sum to be appropriated for the benefit of + the slave, in any way we might think proper.</p> + <p class="dgp">A great number of friends accompanied us to the cars, and a + beautiful bouquet of flowers was sent, with a very affecting message from, a + sick gentleman, who, from the retirement of his chamber, felt a desire to + testify his sympathy.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now, if all this enthusiasm for freedom and humanity, in the + person of the American slave, is to be set down as good for nothing in England, + because there are evils there in society which require redress, what then shall + we say of ourselves? Have we not been enthusiastic for freedom in the person of + the Greek, the Hungarian, and the Pole, while protecting a much worse despotism + than any from which they suffer? Do we not consider it our duty to print and + distribute the Bible in all foreign lands, when there are three millions of + people among whom we dare not distribute it at home, and whom it is a penal + offence even to teach to read it? Do we not send remonstrances to Tuscany, + about the Madiai, when women are imprisoned in Virginia for teaching slaves to + read? Is all this hypocritical, insincere, and impertinent in us? Are we never + to send another missionary, or make another appeal for foreign lands, till we + have abolished slavery at home? For my part, I think that imperfect and + inconsistent outbursts of generosity and feeling are a great deal better than + none. No nation, no individual is wholly consistent and Christian; but let us + not in ourselves or in other nations repudiate the truest and most beautiful + developments of humanity, because we have not yet attained perfection.</p> + <p class="dgp">All experience has proved that the sublime spirit of foreign + missions always is suggestive of home philanthropies, and that those whose + heart has been enlarged by the love of all mankind are always those who are + most efficient in their own particular sphere.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_20" name="toc_20"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter III</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Glasgow</span>, April 16, 1853.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear Aunt + E.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">You shall have my earliest Scotch letter; for I am sure nobody + can sympathize in the emotions of the first approach to Scotland as you can. A + country dear to us by the memory of the dead and of the living; a country whose + history and literature, interesting enough of itself, has become to us still + more so, because the reading and learning of it formed part of our communion + for many a social hour, with friends long parted from earth.</p> + <p class="dgp">The views of Scotland, which lay on my mother's table, even + while I was a little child, and in poring over which I spent so many happy, + dreamy hours,—the Scotch ballads, which were the delight of our evening + fireside, and which seemed almost to melt the soul out of me, before I was old + enough to understand their words,—the songs of Burns, which had been a + household treasure among us,—the enchantments of Scott,—all these + dimly returned upon me. It was the result of them all which I felt in nerve and + brain.</p> + <p class="dgp">And, by the by, that puts me in mind of one thing; and that is, + how much of our pleasure in literature results from its reflection on us from, + other minds. As we advance in life, the literature which has charmed us in the + circle of our friends becomes endeared to us from the reflected remembrance of + them, of their individualities, their opinions, and their sympathies, so that + our memory of it is a many-colored cord, drawn from many minds.</p> + <p class="dgp">So in coming near to Scotland, I seemed to feel not only my own + individuality, but all that my friends would have felt, had they been with me. + For sometimes we seem to be encompassed, as by a cloud, with a sense of the + sympathy of the absent and the dead.</p> + <p class="dgp">We left Liverpool with hearts a little tremulous and excited by + the vibration of an atmosphere of universal sympathy and kindness. We found + ourselves, at length, shut from the warm adieus of our friends, in a snug + compartment of the railroad car. The English cars are models of comfort and + good keeping. There are six seats in a compartment, luxuriously cushioned and + nicely carpeted, and six was exactly the number of our party. Nevertheless, so + obstinate is custom that we averred at first that we preferred our American + cars, deficient as they are in many points of neatness and luxury, because they + are so much more social.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Dear me," said Mr. S., "six Yankees shut up in a car together! + Not one Englishman to tell us any thing about the country! Just like the six + old ladies that made their living by taking tea at each other's houses."</p> + <p class="dgp">But that is the way here in England: every arrangement in + travelling is designed to maintain that privacy and reserve which is the + dearest and most sacred part of an Englishman's nature. Things are so arranged + here that, if a man pleases, he can travel all through England with his family, + and keep the circle an unbroken unit, having just as little communication with + any thing outside of it as in his own house.</p> + <p class="dgp">From one of these sheltered apartments in a railroad car, he can + pass to preëngaged parlors and chambers in the hotel, with his own + separate table, and all his domestic manners and peculiarities unbroken. In + fact, it is a little compact home travelling about.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now, all this is very charming to people who know already as + much about a country as they want to know; but it follows from it that a + stranger might travel all through England, from one end to the other and not be + on conversing terms with a person in it. He may be at the same hotel, in the + same train with people able to give him all imaginable information, yet never + touch them at any practicable point of communion. This is more especially the + case if his party, as ours was, is just large enough to fill the whole + apartment.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to the comforts of the cars, it is to be said, that for the + same price you can get far more comfortable riding in America. Their first + class cars are beyond all praise, but also beyond all price; their second class + are comfortless, cushionless, and uninviting. Agreeably with our theory of + democratic equality, we have a general car, not so complete as the one, nor so + bare as the other, where all ride together; and if the traveller in thus riding + sees things that occasionally annoy him, when he remembers that the whole + population, from the highest to the lowest, are accommodated here together, he + will certainly see hopeful indications in the general comfort, order, and + respectability which prevail; all which we talked over most patriotically + together, while we were lamenting that there was not a seventh to our party, to + instruct us in the localities.</p> + <p class="dgp">Every thing upon the railroad proceeds with systematic accuracy. + There is no chance for the most careless person to commit a blunder, or make a + mistake. At the proper time the conductor marches every body into their places + and locks them in, gives the word, "All right," and away we go. Somebody has + remarked, very characteristically, that the starting word of the English is + "all right," and that of the Americans "go ahead."</p> + <p class="dgp">Away we go through Lancashire, wide awake, looking out on all + sides for any signs of antiquity. In being thus whirled through English + scenery, I became conscious of a new understanding of the spirit and + phraseology of English poetry. There are many phrases and expressions with + which we have been familiar from childhood, and which, we suppose, in a kind of + indefinite way, we understand, which, after all, when we come on English + ground, start into a new significance: take, for instance, these lines from + L'Allegro:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Sometimes walking, not unseen,</p> + <p class="l">By hedge-row elms on hillocks green.</p> + <p class="l">* * * *</p> + <p class="l">Straight mine eye hath caught new pleasures,</p> + <p class="l">While the landscape round it measures;</p> + <p class="l">Russet lawns and fallows gray,</p> + <p class="l">Where the nibbling flocks do stray;</p> + <p class="l">Mountains, on whose barren breast</p> + <p class="l">The laboring clouds do often rest;</p> + <p class="l">Meadows trim with daisies pied,</p> + <p class="l">Shallow brooks and livers wide:</p> + <p class="l">Towers and battlements it sees</p> + <p class="l">Bosom'd high in tufted trees."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Now, these hedge-row elms. I had never even asked myself + what they were till I saw them; but you know, as I said in a former letter, the + hedges are not all of them carefully cut; in fact many of them are only + irregular rows of bushes, where, although the hawthorn is the staple element, + yet firs, and brambles, and many other interlopers put in their claim, and they + all grow up together in a kind of straggling unity; and in the hedges trees are + often set out, particularly elms, and have a very pleasing effect.</p> + <p class="dgp">Then, too, the trees have more of that rounding outline which is + expressed by the word "bosomed." But here we are, right under the walls of + Lancaster, and Mr. S. wakes me up by quoting, "Old John o' Gaunt, time-honored + Lancaster."</p> + <p class="dgp">"Time-honored," said I; "it looks as fresh as if it had been + built yesterday: you do not mean to say that is the real old castle?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"To be sure, it is the very old castle built in the reign of + Edward III., by John of Gaunt."</p> + <p class="dgp">It stands on the summit of a hill, seated regally like a queen + upon a throne, and every part of it looks as fresh, and sharp, and clear, as if + it were the work of modern times. It is used now for a county jail. We have but + a moment to stop or admire—the merciless steam car drives on. We have a + little talk about the feudal times, and the old past days; when again the cry + goes up,—</p> + <p class="dgp">"O, there's something! What's that?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"O, that is Carlisle."</p> + <p class="dgp">"Carlisle!" said I; "what, the Carlisle of Scott's ballad?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"What ballad?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Why, don't you remember, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, the + song of Albert Graeme, which has something about Carlisle's wall in every + verse?</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">'It was an English, laydie bright</p> + <p class="l">When sun shines fair on Carlisle wall,</p> + <p class="l">And she would marry a Scottish knight,</p> + <p class="l">For love will still be lord of all.'</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I used to read this when I was a child, and wonder what + 'Carlisle wall' was."</p> + <p class="dgp">Carlisle is one of the most ancient cities in England, dating + quite back to the time of the Romans. Wonderful! How these Romans left their + mark every where!</p> + <p class="dgp">Carlisle has also its ancient castle, the lofty, massive tower + of which forms a striking feature of the town.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image8.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">This castle was built by William Rufus. David, King of Scots, + and Robert Bruce both tried their hands upon it, in the good old times, when + England and Scotland were a mutual robbery association. Then the castle of the + town was its great feature; castles were every thing in those days. Now the + castle has gone to decay, and stands only for a curiosity, and the cotton + factory has come up in its place. This place is famous for cottons and + ginghams, and moreover for a celebrated biscuit bakery. So goes the + world,—the lively vigorous shoots of the present springing out of the + old, mouldering trunk of the past.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. S. was in an ecstasy about an old church, a splendid Gothic, + in which Paley preached. He was archdeacon of Carlisle. We stopped here for a + little while to take dinner. In a large, handsome room tables were set out, and + we sat down to a regular meal.</p> + <p class="dgp">One sees nothing of a town from a railroad station, since it + seems to be an invariable rule, not only here, but all over Europe, to locate + them so that you can see nothing from them.</p> + <p class="dgp">By the by, I forgot to say, among the historical recollections + of this place, that it was the first stopping-place of Queen Mary, after her + fatal flight into England. The rooms which she occupied are still shown in the + castle, and there are interesting letters and documents extant from lords whom + Elizabeth sent here to visit her, in which they record her beauty, her heroic + sentiments, and even her dress; so strong was the fascination in which she held + all who approached her. Carlisle is the scene of the denouement of Guy + Mannering, and it is from this town that Lord Carlisle gets his title.</p> + <p class="dgp">And now keep up a bright lookout for ruins and old houses. Mr. + S., whose eyes are always in every place, allowed none of us to slumber, but + looking out, first on his own side and then on ours, called our attention to + every visible thing. If he had been appointed on a mission of inquiry he could + not have been more zealous and faithful, and I began to think that our desire + for an English cicerone was quite superfluous.</p> + <p class="dgp">And now we pass Gretna Green, famous in story—that + momentous place which marks the commencement of Scotland. It is a little + straggling village, and there is a roadside inn, which has been the scene of + innumerable Gretna Green marriages.</p> + <p class="dgp">Owing to the fact that the Scottish law of marriage is far more + liberal in its construction than the English, this place has been the refuge of + distressed lovers from time immemorial; and although the practice of escaping + here is universally condemned as very naughty and improper, yet, like every + other impropriety, it is kept in countenance by very respectable people. Two + lord chancellors have had the amiable weakness to fall into this snare, and one + lord chancellor's son; so says the guide book, which is our Koran for the time + being. It says, moreover, that it would be easy to add a lengthened list of + <em>distingués</em> married at Gretna Green; but these lord chancellors + (Erskine and Eldon) are quoted as being the most melancholy monuments. What + shall meaner mortals do, when law itself, in all her majesty, wig, gown, and + all, goes by the board?</p> + <p class="dgp">Well, we are in Scotland at last, and now our pulse rises as the + sun declines in the west. We catch glimpses of the Solway Frith, and talk about + Redgauntlet.</p> + <p class="dgp">One says, "Do you remember the scene on the sea shore, with + which it opens, describing the rising of the tide?"</p> + <p class="dgp">And says another, "Don't you remember those lines in the Young + Lochinvar song?—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">'Love swells like the Solway, but ebbs like its tide.'"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I wonder how many authors it will take to enchant our + country from Maine to New Orleans, as every foot of ground is enchanted here in + Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">The sun went down, and night drew on; still we were in Scotland. + Scotch ballads, Scotch tunes, and Scotch literature were in the ascendant. We + sang "Auld Lang Syne," "Scots wha ha'," and "Bonnie Doon," and then, changing + the key, sang Dundee, Elgin, and Martyrs.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Take care," said Mr. S.; "don't get too much excited."</p> + <p class="dgp">"Ah," said I, "this is a thing that comes only once in a + lifetime; do let us have the comfort of it. We shall never come into Scotland + for the <em>first time</em> again."</p> + <p class="dgp">"Ah," said another, "how I wish Walter Scott was alive!"</p> + <p class="dgp">While we were thus at the fusion point of enthusiasm, the cars + stopped at Lockerby, where the real Old Mortality is buried. All was dim and + dark outside, but we soon became conscious that there was quite a number + collected, peering into the window, and, with a strange kind of thrill, I heard + my name inquired for in the Scottish accent. I went to the window; there were + men, women, and children there, and hand after hand was presented, with the + words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland!"</p> + <p class="dgp">Then they inquired for, and shook hands with, all the party, + having in some mysterious manner got the knowledge of who they were, even down + to little G——, whom they took to be my son. Was it not pleasant, + when I had a heart so warm for this old country? I shall never forget the + thrill of those words, "Ye're welcome to Scotland," nor the "Gude night."</p> + <p class="dgp">After that we found similar welcomes in many succeeding + stopping-places; and though I did wave a towel out of the window, instead of a + pocket handkerchief, and commit other awkwardnesses, from not knowing how to + play my part, yet I fancied, after all, that Scotland and we were coming on + well together. Who the good souls were that were thus watching for us through + the night, I am sure I do not know; but that they were of the "one blood," + which unites all the families of the earth, I felt.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we came towards Glasgow, we saw, upon a high hill, what we + supposed to be a castle on fire—great volumes of smoke rolling up, and + fire looking out of arched windows.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Dear me, what a conflagration!" we all exclaimed. We had not + gone very far before we saw another, and then, on the opposite side of the car, + another still.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Why, it seems to me the country is all on fire."</p> + <p class="dgp">"I should think," said Mr. S., "if it was in old times, that + there had been a raid from the Highlands, and set all the houses on fire."</p> + <p class="dgp">"Or they might be beacons," suggested C.</p> + <p class="dgp">To this some one answered out of the Lay of the Last + Minstrel,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Sweet Teviot, by thy silver tide</p> + <p class="l">The glaring bale-fires blaze no more."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">As we drew near to Glasgow these illuminations increased, + till the whole air was red with the glare of them.</p> + <p class="dgp">"What can they be?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Dear me," said Mr. S., in a tone of sudden recollection, "it's + the iron works! Don't you know Glasgow is celebrated for its iron works?"</p> + <p class="dgp">So, after all, in these peaceful fires of the iron works, we got + an idea how the country might have looked in the old picturesque times, when + the Highlanders came down and set the Lowlands on fire; such scenes as are + commemorated in the words of Roderick Dhu's song:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Proudly our pibroch, has thrilled in Glen Fruin,</p> + <p class="l">And Banmachar's groans to our slogan replied;</p> + <p class="l">Glen Luss and Ross Dhu, they are smoking in ruins,</p> + <p class="l">And the best of Loch Lomond lies dead on her side."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">To be sure the fires of iron founderies are much less + picturesque than the old beacons, and the clink of hammers than the clash of + claymores; but the most devout worshipper of the middle ages would hardly wish + to change them.</p> + <p class="dgp">Dimly, by the flickering light of these furnaces, we see the + approach to the old city of Glasgow. There, we are arrived! Friends are waiting + in the station house. Earnest, eager, friendly faces, ever so many. Warm + greetings, kindly words. A crowd parting in the middle, through which we were + conducted into a carriage, and loud cheers of welcome, sent a throb, as the + voice of living Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">I looked out of the carriage, as we drove on, and saw, by the + light of a lantern, Argyle Street. It was past twelve o'clock when I found + myself in a warm, cozy parlor, with friends, whom I have ever since been glad + to remember. In a little time we were all safely housed in our hospitable + apartments, and sleep fell on me for the first time in Scotland.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_21" name="toc_21"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter IV</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear + Aunt E.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">The next morning I awoke worn and weary, and scarce could the + charms of the social Scotch breakfast restore me. I say Scotch, for we had many + viands peculiarly national. The smoking porridge, or parritch, of oatmeal, + which is the great staple dish throughout Scotland. Then there was the bannock, + a thin, wafer-like cake of the same material. My friend laughingly said when he + passed it, "You are in the 'land o' cakes,' remember." There was also some + herring, as nice a Scottish fish as ever wore scales, besides dainties + innumerable which were not national.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our friend and host was Mr. Baillie Paton. I believe that it is + to his suggestion in a public meeting, that we owe the invitation which brought + us to Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">By the by, I should say that "baillie" seems to correspond to + what we call a member of the city council. Mr. Paton told us, that they had + expected us earlier, and that the day before quite a party of friends met at + his house to see us, among whom was good old Dr. Wardlaw.</p> + <p class="dgp">After breakfast the calling began. First, a friend of the + family, with three beautiful children, the youngest of whom was the bearer of a + handsomely bound album, containing a pressed collection of the sea mosses of + the Scottish coast, very vivid and beautiful.</p> + <p class="dgp">If the bloom of English children appeared to me wonderful, I + seemed to find the same thing intensified, if possible, in Scotland. The + children are brilliant as pomegranate blossoms, and their vivid beauty called + forth unceasing admiration. Nor is it merely the children of the rich, or of + the higher classes, that are thus gifted. I have seen many a group of ragged + urchins in the streets and closes with all the high coloring of Rubens, and all + his fulness of outline. Why is it that we admire ragged children on canvas so + much more than the same in nature?</p> + <p class="dgp">All this day is a confused dream to me of a dizzy and + overwhelming kind. So many letters that it took C—— from nine in + the morning till two in the afternoon to read and answer them in the shortest + manner; letters from all classes of people, high and low, rich and poor, in all + shades and styles of composition, poetry and prose; some mere outbursts of + feeling; some invitations; some advice and suggestions; some requests and + inquiries; some presenting books, or flowers, or fruit.</p> + <p class="dgp">Then came, in their turn, deputations from Paisley, Greenock, + Dundee, Aberdeen, Edinburgh, and Belfast in Ireland; calls of friendship, + invitations of all descriptions to go every where, and to see every thing, and + to stay in so many places. One kind, venerable minister, with his lovely + daughter, offered me a retreat in his quiet manse on the beautiful shores of + the Clyde.</p> + <p class="dgp">For all these kindnesses, what could I give in return? There was + scarce time for even a grateful thought on each. People have often said to me + that it must have been an exceeding bore. For my part, I could not think of + regarding it so. It only oppressed me with an unutterable sadness.</p> + <p class="dgp">To me there is always something interesting and beautiful about + a universal popular excitement of a generous character, let the object of it be + what it may. The great desiring heart of man, surging with one strong, + sympathetic swell, even though it be to break on the beach of life and fall + backwards, leaving the sands as barren as before, has yet a meaning and a power + in its restlessness, with which I must deeply sympathize. Nor do I sympathize + any the less, when the individual, who calls forth such an outburst, can be + seen by the eye of sober sense to be altogether inadequate and disproportioned + to it.</p> + <p class="dgp">I do not regard it as any thing against our American nation, + that we are capable, to a very great extent, of these sudden personal + enthusiasms, because I think that, with an individual or a community, the + capability of being exalted into a temporary enthusiasm of self-forgetfulness, + so far from being a fault, has in it a quality of something divine.</p> + <p class="dgp">Of course, about all such things there is a great deal which a + cool critic could make ridiculous, but I hold to my opinion of them + nevertheless.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the + cathedral. The lord provost answers to the lord mayor in England. His title and + office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of + reëlection.</p> + <p class="dgp">As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of + people, who had come out to see me, I could not help saying, "What went ye out + for to see? a reed shaken with the wind?" In fact, I was so worn out, that I + could hardly walk through the building.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is + laid. This was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me + altogether, and as I walked along under the old buttresses and battlements + without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of architecture within, I + saw that, with silence and solitude to help the impression, the old building + might become a strong part of one's inner life. A grave yard crowded with flat + stones lies all around it. A deep ravine separates it from another cemetery on + an opposite eminence, rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its + slender voice between.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image9.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and + strong, stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old + cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down.</p> + <p class="dgp">Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no + conservative element in him, but warred equally against accessories and + essentials.</p> + <p class="dgp">At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down + in a general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the + defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content themselves with + having the idolatrous images of saints pulled down from their niches and thrown + into the brook, while, as Andrew Fairservice hath it, "The auld kirk stood as + crouse as a cat when the fleas are caimed aff her, and a' body was alike + pleased."</p> + <p class="dgp">We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a + Protestant place of worship, and has a simple and massive grandeur about it. In + fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, "Ah, it's a + brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and opensteek hems + about it—a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will stand as lang as + the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it."</p> + <p class="dgp">I was disappointed in one thing: the painted glass, if there has + ever been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense + windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses in the + architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the colored rays + through painted windows—an emblem, perhaps, of the cold, definite, + intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the many-colored, + gorgeous mysticism of former times.</p> + <p class="dgp">After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect + to Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I, + however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about it.</p> + <p class="dgp">I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that + nothing is so utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at + cathedrals. The strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these + immense arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to + generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you to + fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was told, many + before me.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. S. and C——, however, made amends, by their great + activity and zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand + from them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had + their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it for half + a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them. And Mr. S. + insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of this + circumstance.</p> + <p class="dgp">Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill + as to need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of + the letters. I passed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had to get + up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our kind friends + Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went in the carriage with + them.</p> + <p class="dgp">Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we + saw a striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is + still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation with + great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I noticed, as + we were passing along to church, that he frequently laid his hand upon his + heart, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be able to get through + the evening, but that when he was not well, excitement was apt to bring on a + spasm about the heart; but with it all he seemed so cheerful, lively, and + benignant, that I could not but feel my affections drawn towards him. Mrs. + Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly woman, and it was a great comfort to have her + with me on such an occasion.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim + remembrance of a way being made for us through a great crowd all round the + house, and of going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and + shook hands with many friendly people. Then we passed into a gallery, where a + seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the audience. Our friend + Baillie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and around us many + friends, chiefly ministers of the different churches, the ladies and gentlemen + of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others.</p> + <p class="dgp">I told you it was a tea party; but the arrangements were + altogether different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables + stretched up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had + an appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes, + biscuit, &c., and when the proper time came, attendants passed along + serving tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the whole + multitude actually took tea together, without the least apparent inconvenience + or disturbance.</p> + <p class="dgp">There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation all over the + house, the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment + was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help wondering what + sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for two thousand people + was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they must have had the "father of + all teakettles" to boil it in. I could not help wondering if old mother + Scotland had put two thousand teaspoonfuls of tea for the company, and one for + the teapot, as is our good Yankee custom.</p> + <p class="dgp">We had quite a sociable time up in our gallery. Our tea table + stretched quite across the gallery, and we drank tea "in sight of all the + people." By <em>we</em>, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives, + and ladies of the Antislavery Society, besides our party, and the friends whom + I have mentioned before. All seemed to be enjoying themselves.</p> + <p class="dgp">After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in + the old Scotch version.</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The people's poor ones he shall judge,</p> + <p class="l">The needy's children save;</p> + <p class="l">And those shall he in pieces break,</p> + <p class="l">Who them oppressed have.</p> + <p class="l">For he the needy shall preserve,</p> + <p class="l">When he to him doth call;</p> + <p class="l">The poor, also, and him that hath</p> + <p class="l">No help of man at all.</p> + <p class="l">Both from deceit and violence</p> + <p class="l">Their soul he shall set free;</p> + <p class="l">And in his sight right precious</p> + <p class="l">And dear their blood shall be.</p> + <p class="l">Now blessed be the Lord, our God,</p> + <p class="l">The God of Israel,</p> + <p class="l">For he alone doth wondrous works,</p> + <p class="l">In glory that excel.</p> + <p class="l">And blessed be his glorious name</p> + <p class="l">To all eternity;</p> + <p class="l">The whole earth let his glory fill:</p> + <p class="l">Amen; so let it be."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving + force to these simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of + the reason why that rude old translation still holds its place in Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">The addresses were, many of them, very beautiful; the more so + for the earnest and religious feeling which they manifested. That of Dr. + Wardlaw, in particular, was full of comfort and encouragement, and breathed a + most candid and catholic spirit. Could our friends in America see with what + earnest warmth the religious heart of Scotland beats towards them, they would + be willing to suffer a word of admonition from those to whom love gives a right + to speak. As Christians, all have a common interest in what honors or dishonors + Christianity, and an ocean between us does not make us less one church.</p> + <p class="dgp">Most of the speeches you will see recorded in the papers. In the + course of the evening there was a second service of grapes, oranges, and other + fruits, served round in the same quiet manner as the tea. On account of the + feeble state of my health, they kindly excused me before the exercises of the + evening were over.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next morning, at ten o'clock, we rode with a party of + friends to see some of the <em>notabilia</em>. First, to Bothwell Castle, of + old the residence of the Black Douglas. The name had for me the quality of + enchantment. I cannot understand nor explain the nature of that sad yearning + and longing with which one visits the mouldering remains of a state of society + which one's reason wholly disapproves, and which one's calm sense of right + would think it the greatest misfortune to have recalled; yet when the carriage + turned under the shadow of beautiful ancient oaks, and Mr. S. said, "There, we + are in the grounds of the old Black Douglas family!" I felt every nerve shiver. + I remembered the dim melodies of the Lady of the Lake. Bothwell's lord was the + lord of this castle, whose beautiful ruins here adorn the banks of the + Clyde.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image10.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">Whatever else we have or may have in America, we shall never + have the wild, poetic beauty of these ruins. The present noble possessors are + fully aware of their worth as objects of taste, and, therefore, with the + greatest care are they preserved. Winding walks are cut through the grounds + with much ingenuity, and seats or arbors are placed at every desirable and + picturesque point of view.</p> + <p class="dgp">To the thorough-paced tourist, who wants to <em>do</em> the + proprieties in the shortest possible time, this arrangement is undoubtedly + particularly satisfactory; but to the idealist, who would like to roam, and + dream, and feel, and to come unexpectedly on the choicest points of view, it is + rather a damper to have all his raptures prearranged and foreordained for him, + set down in the guide book and proclaimed by the guide, even though it should + be done with the most artistic accuracy.</p> + <p class="dgp">Nevertheless, when we came to the arbor which commanded the + finest view of the old castle, and saw its gray, ivy-clad walls, standing forth + on a beautiful point, round which swept the brown, dimpling waves of the Clyde, + the indescribable sweetness, sadness, wildness of the whole scene would make + its voice heard in our hearts. "Thy servants take pleasure in her dust, and + favor the stones thereof," said an old Hebrew poet, who must have felt the + inexpressibly sad beauty of a ruin. All the splendid phantasmagoria of chivalry + and feudalism, knights, ladies, banners, glittering arms, sweep before us; the + cry of the battle, the noise of the captains, and the shouting; and then in + contrast this deep stillness, that green, clinging ivy, the gentle, rippling + river, those weeping birches, dipping in its soft waters—all these, in + their quiet loveliness, speak of something more imperishable than brute + force.</p> + <p class="dgp">The ivy on the walls now displays a trunk in some places as + large as a man's body. In the days of old Archibald the Grim, I suppose that + ivy was a little, weak twig, which, if he ever noticed, he must have thought + the feeblest and slightest of all things; yet Archibald has gone back to dust, + and the ivy is still growing on. Such force is there in gentle things.</p> + <p class="dgp">I have often been dissatisfied with the admiration, which a + poetic education has woven into my nature, for chivalry and feudalism; but, on + a closer examination, I am convinced that there is a real and proper foundation + for it, and that, rightly understood, this poetic admiration is not + inconsistent with the spirit of Christ.</p> + <p class="dgp">For, let us consider what it is we admire in these Douglases, + for instance, who, as represented by Scott, are perhaps as good exponents of + the idea as any. Was it their hardness, their cruelty, their hastiness to take + offence, their fondness for blood and murder? All these, by and of themselves, + are simply disgusting. What, then, do we admire? Their courage, their + fortitude, their scorn of lying and dissimulation, their high sense of personal + honor, which led them to feel themselves the protectors of the weak, and to + disdain to take advantage of unequal odds against an enemy. If we read the book + of Isaiah, we shall see that some of the most striking representations of God + appeal to the very same principles of our nature.</p> + <p class="dgp">The fact is, there can be no reliable character which has not + its basis in these strong qualities. The beautiful must ever rest in the arms + of the sublime. The gentle needs the strong to sustain it, as much as the rock + flowers need rocks to grow on, or yonder ivy the rugged wall which it embraces. + When we are admiring these things, therefore, we are only admiring some + sparkles and glimmers of that which is divine, and so coming nearer to Him in + whom all fulness dwells.</p> + <p class="dgp">After admiring at a distance, we strolled through the ruins + themselves. Do you remember, in the Lady of the Lake, where the exiled Douglas, + recalling to his daughter the images of his former splendor, says,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"When Blantyre hymned, her holiest lays,</p> + <p class="l">And Bothwell's walls flung back the praise"?</p> + </div> + <p class="dgp">These lines came forcibly to my mind, when I saw the mouldering + ruins of Blantyre priory rising exactly opposite to the castle, on the other + side of the Clyde.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image11.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">The banks of the River Clyde, where we walked, were thick set + with Portuguese laurel, which I have before mentioned as similar to our + rhododendron. I here noticed a fact with regard to the ivy which had often + puzzled me; and that is, the different shapes of its leaves in the different + stages of its growth. The young ivy has this leaf; but when it has become more + than a century old every trace and indentation melts away, and it assumes this + form, which I found afterwards to be the invariable shape of all the oldest + ivy, in all the ruins of Europe which I explored.</p> + <p class="dgp">This ivy, like the spider, takes hold with her hands in kings' + palaces, as every twig is furnished with innumerable little clinging fingers, + by which it draws itself close, as it were, to the very heart of the old rough + stone.</p> + <p class="dgp">Its clinging and beautiful tenacity has given rise to an + abundance of conceits about fidelity, friendship, and woman's love, which have + become commonplace simply from their appropriateness. It might, also, symbolize + that higher love, unconquerable and unconquered, which has embraced this ruined + world from age to age, silently spreading its green over the rents and fissures + of our fallen nature, giving "beauty for ashes, and garments of praise for the + spirit of heaviness."</p> + <p class="dgp">There is a modern mansion, where the present proprietor of the + estate lives. It was with an emotion partaking of the sorrowful, that we heard + that the Douglas line, as such, was extinct, and that the estate had passed to + distant connections. I was told that the present Lord Douglas is a peaceful + clergyman, quite a different character from old Archibald the Grim.</p> + <p class="dgp">The present residence is a plain mansion, standing on a + beautiful lawn, near the old castle. The head gardener of the estate and many + of the servants came out to meet us, with faces full of interest. The gardener + walked about to show us the localities, and had a great deal of the quiet + intelligence and self-respect which, I think, is characteristic of the laboring + classes here. I noticed that on the green sweep of the lawn, he had set out + here and there a good many daisies, as embellishments to the grass, and these + in many places were defended by sticks bent over them, and that, in one place, + a bank overhanging the stream was radiant with yellow daffodils, which appeared + to have come up and blossomed there accidentally. I know not whether these were + planted there, or came up of themselves.</p> + <p class="dgp">We next went to the famous Bothwell bridge, which Scott has + immortalized in Old Mortality. We walked up and down, trying to recall the + scenes of the battle, as there described, and were rather mortified, after we + had all our associations comfortably located upon it, to be told that it was + not the same bridge—it had been newly built, widened, and otherwise made + more comfortable and convenient.</p> + <p class="dgp">Of course, this was evidently for the benefit of society, but it + was certainly one of those cases where the poetical suffers for the practical. + I comforted myself in my despondency, by looking over at the old stone piers + underneath, which were indisputably the same. We drove now through beautiful + grounds, and alighted at an elegant mansion, which in former days belonged to + Lockhart, the son-in-law of Scott. It was in this house that Old Mortality was + written.</p> + <p class="dgp">As I was weary, the party left me here, while they went on to + see the Duke of Hamilton's grounds. Our kind hostess showed me into a small + study, where she said Old Mortality was written. The window commanded a + beautiful view of many of the localities described. Scott was as particular to + consult for accuracy in his local descriptions as if he had been writing a + guide book.</p> + <p class="dgp">He was in the habit of noting down in his memorandum book even + names and characteristics of the wild flowers and grasses that grew about a + place. When a friend once remarked to him, that he should have supposed his + imagination could have supplied such trifles, he made an answer that is worth + remembering by every artist—that no imagination could long support its + freshness, that was not nourished by a constant and minute observation of + nature.</p> + <p class="dgp">Craignethan Castle, which is the original of Tillietudlem, we + were informed, was not far from thence. It is stated in Lockhart's Life of + Scott, that the ruins of this castle excited in Scott such delight and + enthusiasm, that its owner urged him to accept for his lifetime the use of a + small habitable house, enclosed within the circuit of the walls.</p> + <p class="dgp">After the return of the party from Hamilton Park, we sat down to + an elegant lunch, where my eye was attracted more than any thing else, by the + splendor of the hothouse flowers which adorned the table. So far as I have + observed, the culture of flowers, both in England and Scotland, is more + universally an object of attention than with us. Every family in easy + circumstances seems, as a matter of course, to have their greenhouse, and the + flowers are brought to a degree of perfection which I have never seen at + home.</p> + <p class="dgp">I may as well say here, that we were told by a gentleman, whose + name I do not now remember, that this whole district had been celebrated for + its orchards; he added, however, that since the introduction of the American + apple into the market, its superior excellence had made many of these orchards + almost entirely worthless. It is a curious fact, showing how the new world is + working on the old.</p> + <p class="dgp">After taking leave of our hospitable friends, we took to our + carriages again. As we were driving slowly through the beautiful grounds, + admiring, as we never failed to do, their perfect cultivation, a party of + servants appeared in sight, waving their hats and handkerchiefs, and cheering + us as we passed. These kindly expressions from them were as pleasant as any we + received.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening we had engaged to attend another + <em>soirée</em>, gotten up by the working classes, to give admission to + many who were not in circumstances to purchase tickets for the other. This was + to me, if any thing, a more interesting <em>réunion</em>, because this + was just the class whom I wished to meet. The arrangements of the entertainment + were like those of the evening before.</p> + <p class="dgp">As I sat in the front gallery and looked over the audience with + an intense interest, I thought they appeared on the whole very much like what I + might have seen at home in a similar gathering. Men, women, and children were + dressed in a style which showed both self-respect and good taste, and the + speeches were far above mediocrity. One pale young man, a watchmaker, as I was + told afterwards, delivered an address, which, though doubtless it had the + promising fault of too much elaboration and ornament, yet I thought had + passages which would do honor to any literary periodical whatever.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were other orators less highly finished, who yet spoke + "right on," in a strong, forcible, and really eloquent way, giving the grain of + the wood without the varnish. They contended very seriously and sensibly, that + although the working men of England and Scotland had many things to complain + of, and many things to be reformed, yet their condition was world-wide + different from that of the slave.</p> + <p class="dgp">One cannot read the history of the working classes in England, + for the last fifty years, without feeling sensibly the difference between + oppressions under a free government and slavery. So long as the working class + of England produces orators and writers, such as it undoubtedly has produced; + so long as it has in it that spirit of independence and resistance of wrong, + which has shown itself more and more during the agitations of the last fifty + years; and so as long as the law allows them to meet and debate, to form + associations and committees, to send up remonstrances and petitions to + government,—one can see that their case is essentially different from + that of plantation slaves.</p> + <p class="dgp">I must say, I was struck this night with the resemblance between + the Scotchman and the New Englander. One sees the distinctive nationality of a + country more in the middle and laboring classes than in the higher, and + accordingly at this meeting there was more nationality, I thought, than at the + other.</p> + <p class="dgp">The highest class of mind in all countries loses nationality, + and becomes universal; it is a great pity, too, because nationality is + picturesque always. One of the greatest miracles to my mind about Kossuth was, + that with so universal an education, and such an extensive range of language + and thought, he was yet so distinctively a Magyar.</p> + <p class="dgp">One thing has surprised and rather disappointed us. Our + enthusiasm for Walter Scott does not apparently meet a response in the popular + breast. Allusions to Bannockburn and Drumclog bring down the house, but + enthusiasm for Scott was met with comparative silence. We discussed this matter + among ourselves, and rather wondered at it.</p> + <p class="dgp">The fact is, Scott belonged to a past, and not to the coming + age. He beautified and adorned that which is waxing old and passing away. He + loved and worshipped in his very soul institutions which the majority of the + common people have felt as a restraint and a burden. One might naturally get a + very different idea of a feudal castle by starving to death in the dungeon of + it, than by writing sonnets on it at a picturesque distance. Now, we in America + are so far removed from feudalism,—it has been a thing so much of mere + song and story with us, and our sympathies are so unchecked by any experience + of inconvenience or injustice in its consequences,—that we are at full + liberty to appreciate the picturesque of it, and sometimes, when we stand + overlooking our own beautiful scenery, to wish that we could see,</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"On yon bold brow, a lordly tower;</p> + <p class="l">In that soft vale, a lady's bower;</p> + <p class="l">In yonder meadow, far away,</p> + <p class="l">The turrets of a cloister gray;"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">when those who know by experience all the accompaniments of + these ornaments, would have quite another impression.</p> + <p class="dgp">Nevertheless, since there are two worlds in man, the real and + the ideal, and both have indisputably a right to be, since God made the + faculties of both, we must feel that it is a benefaction to mankind, that Scott + was thus raised up as the link, in the ideal world, between the present and the + past. It is a loss to universal humanity to have the imprint of any phase of + human life and experience entirely blotted out. Scott's fictions are like this + beautiful ivy, with which all the ruins here are overgrown,—they not only + adorn, but, in many cases, they actually hold together, and prevent the + crumbling mass from falling into ruins.</p> + <p class="dgp">To-morrow we are going to have a sail on the Clyde.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_22" name="toc_22"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter V</h2> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">April 17.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + Sister</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">To-day a large party of us started on a small steamer, to go + down the Clyde. It has been a very, very exciting day to us. It is so + stimulating to be where every name is a poem. For instance, we start at the + Broomielaw. This Broomielaw is a kind of wharf, or landing. Perhaps in old + times it was a haugh overgrown with broom, from whence it gets its name; this + is only my conjecture, however.</p> + <p class="dgp">We have a small steamer quite crowded with people, our excursion + party being very numerous. In a few minutes after starting, somebody + says,—</p> + <p class="dgp">"O, here's where the Kelvin enters." This starts up,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Let us haste to Kelvin Grove."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Then soon we are coming to Dumbarton Castle, and all the + tears we shed over Miss Porter's William Wallace seem to rise up like a + many-colored mist about it. The highest peak of the rock is still called + Wallace's Seat, and a part of the castle, Wallace's Tower; and in one of its + apartments a huge two-handed sword of the hero is still shown. I suppose, in + fact, Miss Porter's sentimental hero is about as much like the real William + Wallace as Daniel Boone is like Sir Charles Grandison. Many a young lady, who + has cried herself sick over Wallace in the novel, would have been in perfect + horror if she could have seen the real man. Still Dumbarton Castle is not a + whit the less picturesque for that.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now comes the Leven,—that identical Leven Water known in + song,—and on the right is Leven Grove.</p> + <p class="dgp">"There," said somebody to me, "is the old mansion of the Earls + of Glencairn." Quick as thought, flashed through my mind that most eloquent of + Burns's poems, the Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn.</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The bridegroom may forget the bride</p> + <p class="l">Was made his wedded wife yestreen;</p> + <p class="l">The monarch may forget the crown</p> + <p class="l">That on his head an hour hath been;</p> + <p class="l">The mother may forget the child</p> + <p class="l">That smiles sae sweetly on her knee;</p> + <p class="l">But I'll remember thee, Glencairn,</p> + <p class="l">And a' that thou hast done for me."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">This mansion is now the seat of Graham of Gartmor.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now we are shown the remains of old Cardross Castle, where it + was said Robert Bruce breathed his last. And now we come near the beautiful + grounds of Roseneath, a green, velvet-like peninsula, stretching out into the + widening waters.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Peninsula!" said C——. "Why, Walter Scott said it + was an island."</p> + <p class="dgp">Certainly, he did declare most explicitly in the person of Mr. + Archibald, the Duke of Argyle's serving man, to Miss Dollie Dutton, when she + insisted on going to it by land, that Roseneath was an island. It shows that + the most accurate may be caught tripping sometimes.</p> + <p class="dgp">Of course, our heads were full of David Deans, Jeanie, and + Effie, but we saw nothing of them. The Duke of Argyle's Italian mansion is the + most conspicuous object.</p> + <p class="dgp">Hereupon there was considerable discussion on the present Duke + of Argyle among the company, from which we gathered that he stood high in favor + with the popular mind. One said that there had been an old prophecy, probably + uttered somewhere up in the Highlands, where such things are indigenous, that a + very good duke of Argyle was to arise having red hair, and that the present + duke had verified the prediction by uniting both requisites. They say that he + is quite a young man, with a small, slight figure, but with a great deal of + energy and acuteness of mind, and with the generous and noble traits which have + distinguished his house in former times. He was a pupil of Dr. Arnold, a member + of the National Scotch Kirk, and generally understood to be a serious and + religious man. He is one of the noblemen who have been willing to come forward + and make use of his education and talent in the way of popular lectures at + lyceums and athenæums; as have also the Duke of Newcastle, the Earl of + Carlisle, and some others. So the world goes on. I must think, with all + deference to poetry, that it is much better to deliver a lyceum lecture than to + head a clan in battle; though I suppose, a century and a half ago, had the + thing been predicted to McCallummore's old harper, he would have been greatly + at a loss to comprehend the nature of the transaction.</p> + <p class="dgp">Somewhere about here, I was presented, by his own request, to a + broad-shouldered Scotch farmer, who stood some six feet two, and who paid me + the compliment to say, that he had read my book, and that he would walk six + miles to see me any day. Such a flattering evidence of discriminating taste, of + course, disposed my heart towards him; but when I went up and put my hand into + his great prairie of a palm, I was as a grasshopper in my own eyes. I inquired + who he was, and was told he was one of the Duke of Argyle's farmers. I thought + to myself, if all the duke's farmers were of this pattern, that he might be + able to speak to the enemy in the gates to some purpose.</p> + <p class="dgp">Roseneath occupies the ground between the Gare Loch and Loch + Long. The Gare Loch is the name given to a bay formed by the River Clyde, here + stretching itself out like a lake. Here we landed and went on shore, passing + along the sides of the loch, in the little village of Row.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we were walking along a carriage came up after us, in which + were two ladies. A bunch of primroses, thrown from this carriage, fell at my + feet. I picked it up, and then the carriage stopped, and the ladies requested + to know if I was Mrs. Stowe. On answering in the affirmative, they urged me so + earnestly to come under their roof and take some refreshment, that I began to + remember, what I had partly lost sight of, that I was very tired; so, while the + rest of the party walked on to get a distant view of Ben Lomond, Mr. S. and I + suffered ourselves to be taken into the carriage of our unknown friends, and + carried up to a charming little Italian villa, which stood, surrounded by + flower gardens and pleasure grounds, at the head of the loch. We were ushered + into a most comfortable parlor, where a long window, made of one clear unbroken + sheet of plate glass, gave a perfect view of the loch with all its woody + shores, with Roseneath Castle in the distance. My good hostesses literally + overwhelmed me with kindness; but as there was nothing I really needed so much + as a little quiet rest, they took me to a cozy bedroom, of which they gave me + the freedom, for the present. Does not every traveller know what a luxury it is + to shut one's eyes sometimes? The chamber, which is called "Peace," is now, as + it was in Christian's days, one of the best things that Charity or Piety could + offer to the pilgrim. Here I got a little brush from the wings of + dewy-feathered sleep.</p> + <p class="dgp">After a while our party came back, and we had to be moving. My + kind friends expressed so much joy at having met me, that it was really almost + embarrassing. They told me that they, being confined to the house by ill + health, and one of them by lameness, had had no hope of ever seeing me, and + that this meeting seemed a wonderful gift of Providence. They bade me take + courage and hope, for they felt assured that the Lord would yet entirely make + an end of slavery through the world.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was concluded, after we left here, that, instead of returning + by the boat, we should take carriage and ride home along the banks of the + river. In our carriage were Mr. S. and myself, Dr. Robson and Lady Anderson. + About this time I commenced my first essay towards giving titles, and made, as + you may suppose, rather an odd piece of work of it, generally saying "Mrs." + first, and "Lady" afterwards, and then begging pardon. Lady Anderson laughed, + and said she would give me a general absolution. She is a truly genial, hearty + Scotch woman, and seemed to enter happily into the spirit of the hour.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we rode on we found that the news of our coming had spread + through the village. People came and stood in their doors, beckoning, bowing, + smiling, and waving their handkerchiefs, and the carriage was several times + stopped by persons who came to offer flowers. I remember, in particular, a + group of young girls brought to the carriage two of the most beautiful children + I ever saw, whose little hands literally deluged us with flowers.</p> + <p class="dgp">At the village of Helensburgh we stopped a little while to call + upon Mrs. Bell, the wife of Mr. Bell, the inventor of the steamboat. His + invention in this country was about the same time of that of Fulton in America. + Mrs. Bell came to the carriage to speak to us. She is a venerable woman, far + advanced in years. They had prepared a lunch for us, and quite a number of + people had come together to meet us, but our friends said that there was not + time for us to stop.</p> + <p class="dgp">We rode through several villages after this, and met quite warm + welcome. What pleased me was, that it was not mainly from the literary, nor the + rich, nor the great, but the plain, common people. The butcher came out of his + stall, and the baker from his shop, the miller, dusty with his flour, the + blooming, comely, young mother, with her baby in her arms, all smiling and + bowing with that hearty, intelligent, friendly look, as if they knew we should + be glad to see them.</p> + <p class="dgp">Once, while we stopped to change horses, I, for the sake of + seeing something more of the country, walked on. It seems the honest landlord + and his wife were greatly disappointed at this; however, they got into the + carriage and rode on to see me, and I shook hands with them with a right good + will.</p> + <p class="dgp">We saw several of the clergymen, who came out to meet us, and I + remember stopping, just to be introduced to a most delightful family who came + out, one by one, gray-headed father and mother, with comely brothers and fair + sisters, looking all so kindly and home-like, that I would have been glad to + use the welcome that they gave me to their dwelling.</p> + <p class="dgp">This day has been a strange phenomenon to me. In the first + place, I have seen in all these villages how universally the people read. I + have seen how capable they are of a generous excitement and enthusiasm, and how + much may be done by a work of fiction, so written as to enlist those sympathies + which are common to all classes. Certainly, a great deal may be effected in + this way, if God gives to any one the power, as I hope he will to many. The + power of fictitious writing, for good as well as evil, is a thing which ought + most seriously to be reflected on. No one can fail to see that in our day it is + becoming a very great agency.</p> + <p class="dgp">We came home quite tired, as you may well suppose. You will not + be surprised that the next day I found myself more disposed to keep my bed than + to go out. I regretted it, because, being Sunday, I would like to have heard + some of the preachers of Glasgow. I was, however, glad of one quiet day to + recall my thoughts, for I had been whirling so rapidly from scene to scene, + that I needed time to consider where I was; especially as we were to go to + Edinburgh on the morrow.</p> + <p class="dgp">Towards sunset Mr. S. and I strolled out entirely alone to + breathe a little fresh air. We walked along the banks of the Kelvin, quite down + to its junction with the Clyde. The Kelvin Grove of the ballad is all cut away, + and the Kelvin flows soberly between stone walls, with a footpath on each side, + like a stream that has learned to behave itself.</p> + <p class="dgp">"There," said Mr. S., as we stood on the banks of the Clyde, now + lying flushed and tranquil in the light of the setting sun, "over there is + Ayrshire."</p> + <p class="dgp">"Ayrshire!" I said; "what, where Burns lived?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Yes, there is his cottage, far down to the south, and out of + sight, of course; and there are the bonny banks of Ayr."</p> + <p class="dgp">It seemed as if the evening air brought a kind of sigh with it. + Poor Burns! how inseparably he has woven himself with the warp and woof of + every Scottish association!</p> + <p class="dgp">We saw a great many children of the poor out playing—rosy, + fine little urchins, worth, any one of them, a dozen bleached, hothouse + flowers. We stopped to hear them talk, and it was amusing to hear the Scotch of + Walter Scott and Burns shouted out with such a right good will. We were as much + struck by it as an honest Yankee was in Paris by the proficiency of the + children in speaking French.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next day we bade farewell to Glasgow, overwhelmed with + kindness to the last, and only oppressed by the thought, how little that was + satisfactory we were able to give in return.</p> + <p class="dgp">Again in the railroad car on our way to Edinburgh. A pleasant + two hours' trip is this from Glasgow to Edinburgh. When the cars stopped at + Linlithgow station, the name started us as out of a dream.</p> + <p class="dgp">There, sure enough, before our eyes, on a gentle eminence stood + the mouldering ruins of which Scott has sung:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Of all the palaces so fair,</p> + <p class="l">Built for the royal dwelling,</p> + <p class="l">In Scotland, far beyond compare</p> + <p class="l">Linlithgow is excelling;</p> + <p class="l">And in its park in genial June,</p> + <p class="l">How sweet the merry linnet's tune,</p> + <p class="l">How blithe the blackbird's lay!</p> + <p class="l">The wild buck's bells from thorny brake.</p> + <p class="l">The coot dives merry on the lake,—</p> + <p class="l">The saddest heart might pleasure take,</p> + <p class="l">To see a scene so gay."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Here was born that woman whose beauty and whose name are + set in the strong, rough Scotch heart, as a diamond in granite. Poor Mary! When + her father, who lay on his death bed at that time in Falkland, was told of her + birth, he answered, "Is it so? Then God's will be done! It [the kingdom] came + with a lass, and it will go with a lass!" With these words he turned his face + to the wall, and died of a broken heart. Certainly, some people appear to be + born under an evil destiny.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image12.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">Here, too, in Linlithgow church, tradition says that James IV. + was warned, by a strange apparition, against that expedition to England which + cost him his life. Scott has worked this incident up into a beautiful + description, in the fourth canto of Marmion.</p> + <p class="dgp">The castle has a very sad and romantic appearance, standing + there all alone as it does, looking down into the quiet lake. It is said that + the internal architectural decorations are exceedingly rich and beautiful, and + a resemblance has been traced between its style of ornament and that of + Heidelberg Castle, which has been accounted for by the fact that the Princess + Elizabeth, who was the sovereign lady of Heidelberg, spent many of the earlier + years of her life in this place.</p> + <p class="dgp">Not far from here we caught a glimpse of the ruins of Niddrie + Castle, where Mary spent the first night after her escape from Lochleven.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Avon here at Linlithgow is spanned by a viaduct, which is a + fine work of art. It has twenty-five arches, which are from seventy to eighty + feet high and fifty wide.</p> + <p class="dgp">As the cars neared Edinburgh we all exclaimed at its beauty, so + worthily commemorated by Scott:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Such dusky grandeur clothes the height,</p> + <p class="l">Where the huge castle holds its state,</p> + <p class="l">And all the steeps slope down,</p> + <p class="l">Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky,</p> + <p class="l">Piled deep and massy, close and high,</p> + <p class="l">Mine own romantic town!"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Edinburgh has had an effect on the literary history of the + world for the last fifty years, that cannot be forgotten by any one approaching + her. The air seemed to be full of spirits of those who, no longer living, have + woven a part of the thread of our existence. I do not know that the shortness + of human life ever so oppressed me as it did on coming near to the city.</p> + <p class="dgp">At the station house the cars stopped amid a crowd of people, + who had assembled to meet us. The lord provost met us at the door of the car, + and presented us to the magistracy of the city, and the committees of the + Edinburgh antislavery societies. The drab dresses and pure white bonnets of + many Friends were conspicuous among the dense moving crowd, as white doves seen + against a dark cloud. Mr. S. and myself, and our future hostess, Mrs. Wigham, + entered the carriage with the lord provost, and away we drove, the crowd + following with their shouts and cheers. I was inexpressibly touched and + affected by this. While we were passing the monument of Scott, I felt an + oppressive melancholy. What a moment life seems in the presence of the noble + dead! What a momentary thing is art, in all its beauty! Where are all those + great souls that have created such an atmosphere of light about Edinburgh? and + how little a space was given them to live and to enjoy!</p> + <p class="dgp">We drove all over Edinburgh, up to the castle, to the + university, to Holyrood, to the hospitals, and through many of the principal + streets, amid shouts, and smiles, and greetings. Some boys amused me very much + by their pertinacious attempts to keep up with the carriage.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Heck," says one of them, "that's <em>her</em>; see the + <em>courls</em>."</p> + <p class="dgp">The various engravers, who have amused themselves by + diversifying my face for the public, having all, with great unanimity, agreed + in giving prominence to this point, I suppose the urchins thought they were on + safe ground there. I certainly think I answered one good purpose that day, and + that is, of giving the much oppressed and calumniated class, called boys, an + opportunity to develop all the noise that was in them—a thing for which I + think they must bless me in their remembrances.</p> + <p class="dgp">At last the carriage drove into a deep gravelled yard, and we + alighted at a porch covered with green ivy, and found ourselves once more at + home.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_23" name="toc_23"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter VI.</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + Sister</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">You may spare your anxieties about me, for I do assure you, that + if I were an old Sevres China jar, I could not have more careful handling than + I do. Every body is considerate; a great deal to say, when there appears to be + so much excitement. Every body seems to understand how good for nothing I am; + and yet, with all this consideration, I have been obliged to keep my room and + bed for a good part of the time. One agreeable feature of the matter is, it + gave me an opportunity to make the acquaintance of the celebrated homoeopathic + physician, Dr. Henderson, in whose experiments and experience I had taken some + interest while in America.</p> + <p class="dgp">Of the multitudes who have called, I have seen scarcely any.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mrs. W., with whom I am staying, is a most thoughtful nurse. + They are Friends, and nothing can be more a pattern of rational home enjoyment, + without ostentation and without parade, than a Quaker family.</p> + <p class="dgp">Though they reject every thing in arrangement which savors of + ostentation and worldly show, yet their homes are exquisite in point of + comfort. They make great use of flowers and natural specimens in adorning their + apartments, and also indulge to a chaste and moderate extent in engravings and + works of art. So far as I have observed, they are all "tee-totalers;" giving, + in this respect, the whole benefit of their example to the temperance + cause.</p> + <p class="dgp">To-morrow evening is to be the great tea party here. How in the + world I am ever to live through it, I don't know.</p> + <p class="dgp">The amount of letters we found waiting for us here in Edinburgh + was, if possible, more appalling than in Glasgow. Among those from persons whom + you would be interested in hearing of, I may mention, a very kind and beautiful + one from the Duchess of Sutherland, and one also from the Earl of Carlisle, + both desiring to make appointments for meeting us as soon as we come to London. + Also a very kind and interesting note from the Rev. Mr. Kingsley and lady. I + look forward with a great deal of interest to passing a little time with them + in their rectory. Letters also from Mr. Binney and Mr. Sherman, two of the + leading Congregational clergymen of London. The latter officiates at Surrey + Chapel, which was established by Rowland Hill. Both contain invitations to us + to visit them in London.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to all engagements, I am in a state of happy acquiescence, + having resigned myself, as a very tame lion, into the hands of my keepers. + Whenever the time comes for me to do any thing, I try to behave as well as I + can, which, as Dr. Young says, is all that an angel could do in the same + circumstances.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to these letters, many of them are mere outbursts of feeling; + yet they are interesting as showing the state of the public mind. Many of them + are on kindred topics of moral reform, in which they seem to have an intuitive + sense that we should be interested. I am not, of course, able to answer them + all, but C—— does, and it takes a good part of every day. One was + from a shoemaker's wife in one of the islands, with a copy of very fair verses. + Many have come accompanying little keepsakes and gifts. It seems to me rather + touching and sad, that people should want to give me things, when I am not able + to give an interview, or even a note, in return. C—— wrote from six + to twelve o'clock, steadily, answering letters.</p> + <p class="dgp">April 26. Last night came off the <em>soirée</em>. The + hall was handsomely decorated with flags in front. We went with the lord + provost in his carriage. The getting in to the hall is quite an affair, I + assure you, the doorway is blocked up by such a dense crowd; yet there is + something very touching about these crowds. They open very gently and quietly, + and they do not look at you with a rude stare, but with faces full of feeling + and intelligence. I have seen some looks that were really beautiful; they go to + my heart. The common people appear as if they knew that our hearts were with + them. How else should it be, as Christians of America?—a country which, + but for one fault, all the world has reason to love.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went up, as before, into a dressing room, where I was + presented to many gentlemen and ladies. When we go in, the cheering, clapping, + and stamping at first strikes one with a strange sensation; but then every body + looks so heartily pleased and delighted, and there is such an all-pervading + atmosphere of geniality and sympathy, as makes one in a few moments feel quite + at home. After all I consider that these cheers and applauses, are Scotland's + voice to America, a recognition of the brotherhood of the countries.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were arranged at this meeting much as in Glasgow. The lord + provost presided; and in the gallery with us were distinguished men from the + magistracy, the university, and the ministry, with their wives, besides the + members of the antislavery societies. The lord provost, I am told, has been + particularly efficient in all benevolent operations, especially those for the + education of the poorer classes. He is also a zealous supporter of the + temperance cause.</p> + <p class="dgp">Among the speakers, I was especially interested in Dr. Guthrie, + who seems to be also a particular favorite of the public. He is a tall, thin + man, with a kind of quaintness in his mode of expressing himself, which + sometimes gives an air of drollery to his speaking. He is a minister of the + Free Church, and has more particularly distinguished himself by his exertions + in behalf of the poorer classes.</p> + <p class="dgp">One passage in his speech I will quote, for I was quite amused + with it. It was in allusion to the retorts which had been made in Mrs. Tyler's + letter to the ladies of England, on the defects in the old country.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I do not deny," he said, "that there are defects in our + country. What I say of them is this—that they are incidental very much to + an old country like our own. Dr. Simpson knows very well, and so does every + medical man, that when a man gets old he gets very infirm, his blood vessels + get ossified, and so on; but I shall not enter into that part of the subject. + What is true of an old country is true of old men, and old women, too. I am + very much disposed to say of this young nation of America, that their teasing + us with our defects might just get the answer which a worthy member of the + church of Scotland gave to his son, who was so dissatisfied with the defects in + the church, that he was determined to go over to a younger communion. 'Ah, + Sandy, Sandy, man, when your lum reeks as lang as ours, it will, may be, need + sweeping too.'<a href="#note_10"><span class="footnoteref">10</span></a> Now, I + do not deny that we need sweeping; every body knows that I have been singing + out about sweeping for the last five years. Let me tell my good friends in + Edinburgh, and in the country, that the sooner you sweep the better; for the + chimney may catch fire, and reduce your noble fabric to ashes.</p> + <p class="dgp">"They told us in that letter about the poor needlewomen, that + had to work sixteen hours a day. ''Tis true, and pity 'tis 'tis true.' But does + the law compel them to work sixteen hours a day? I would like to ask the writer + of the letter. Are they bound down to their garrets and cellars for sixteen + hours a day? May they not go where they like, and ask better wages and better + work? Can the slave do that? Do they tell us of our ragged children? I know + something about ragged children. But are our ragged children condemned to the + street? If I, or the lord provost, or any other benevolent man, should take one + of them from the street and bring it to the school, dare the + policeman—miscalled officer of justice—put his foot across the door + to drag it out again to the street? Nobody means to defend our defects; does + any man attempt to defend them? Were not these noble ladies and excellent + women, titled and untitled, among the very first to seek to redress them?"</p> + <p class="dgp">I wish I could give you the strong, broad Scotch accent.</p> + <p class="dgp">The national penny offering, consisting of a thousand golden + sovereigns on a magnificent silver salver, stood conspicuously in view of the + audience. It has been an unsolicited offering, given in the smallest sums, + often from the extreme poverty of the giver. The committee who collected it in + Edinburgh and Glasgow bore witness to the willingness with which the very + poorest contributed the offering of their sympathy. In one cottage they found a + blind woman, and said, "Here, at least, is one who will feel no interest, as + she cannot have read the book."</p> + <p class="dgp">"Indeed," said the old lady, "if I cannot read, my son has read + it to me, and I've got my penny saved to give."</p> + <p class="dgp">It is to my mind extremely touching to see how the poor, in + their poverty, can be moved to a generosity surpassing that of the rich. Nor do + I mourn that they took it from their slender store, because I know that a penny + given from a kindly impulse is a greater comfort and blessing to the poorest + giver than even a penny received.</p> + <p class="dgp">As in the case of the other meeting, we came out long before the + speeches were ended. Well, of course, I did not sleep any all night. The next + day I felt quite miserable. Mrs. W. went with Mr. S. and myself for a quiet + drive in her carriage.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was a beautiful, sunny day that we drove out to Craigmiller + Castle, formerly one of the royal residences. It was here that Mary retreated + after the murder of Rizzio, and where, the chronicler says, she was often heard + in those days wishing that she were in her grave. It seems so strange to see it + standing there all alone, in the midst of grassy fields, so silent, and cold, + and solitary. I got out of the carriage and walked about it. The short, green + grass was gemmed with daisies, and sheep were peacefully feeding and resting, + where was once all the life and bustle of a court.</p> + <p class="dgp">We had no one to open the inside of the castle for us, where + there are still some tolerably preserved rooms, but we strolled listlessly + about, looking through the old arches, and peeping through slits and loopholes + into the interior.</p> + <p class="dgp">The last verse of Queen Mary's lamentation seemed to be sighing + in the air:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"O, soon for me shall simmer's suns</p> + <p class="l">Nae mair light up the morn;</p> + <p class="l">Nae mair for me the autumn wind</p> + <p class="l">Wave o'er the yellow corn.</p> + <p class="l">But in the narrow house of death</p> + <p class="l">Let winter round me rave,</p> + <p class="l">And the next flowers that deck the spring</p> + <p class="l">Bloom on my peaceful grave."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Only yesterday, it seemed, since that poor heart was + yearning and struggling, caught in the toils of this sorrowful life. How many + times she looked on this landscape through sad eyes! I suppose just such little + daisies grew here in the grass then, and perhaps she stooped and picked them, + wishing, just as I do, that the pink did not grow on the under side of them, + where it does not show. Do you know that this little daisy is the + <em>gowan</em> of Scotch poetry? So I was told by a "charming young Jessie" in + Glasgow, one day when I was riding out there.</p> + <p class="dgp">The view from Craigmiller is beautiful—Auld Reekie, + Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, and far down the Frith of Forth, where we can + just dimly see the Bass Hock, celebrated as a prison, where the Covenanters + were immured.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was this fortress that Habakkuk Mucklewrath speaks of in his + ravings, when he says, "Am not I Habakkuk Mucklewrath, whose name is changed to + Magor-Missabib, because I am made a terror unto myself, and unto all that are + around me? I heard it: when did I hear it? Was it not in the tower of the Bass, + that overhangeth the wide, wild sea? and it howled in the winds, and it roared + in the billows, and it screamed, and it whistled, and it clanged, with the + screams, and the clang, and the whistle of the sea birds, as they floated, and + flew, and dropped, and dived, on the bosom of the waters."</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image13.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">These Salisbury Crags, which overlook Edinburgh, have a very + peculiar outline; they resemble an immense elephant crouching down. We passed + Mushats Cairn, where Jeanie Deans met Robertson; and saw Liberton, where Reuben + Butler was a schoolmaster. Nobody doubts, I hope, the historical accuracy of + these points.</p> + <p class="dgp">Thursday, 21st. We took cars for Aberdeen. The appropriation of + old historical names to railroad stations often reminds me of Hood's whimsical + lines on a possible railroad in the Holy Land. Think of having Bannockburn + shouted by the station master, as the train runs whistling up to a small + station house. Nothing to be seen there but broad, silent meadows, through + which the burn wimples its way. Here was the very Marathon of Scotland. I + suppose we know more about it from the "Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled," than + we do from history; yet the real scene, as narrated by the historian, has a + moral grandeur in it.</p> + <p class="dgp">The chronicler tells us, that when on this occasion the Scots + formed their line of battle, and a venerable abbot passed along, holding up the + cross before them, the whole army fell upon their knees.</p> + <p class="dgp">"These Scots will not fight," said Edward, who was reconnoitring + at a distance. "See! they are all on their knees now to beg for mercy."</p> + <p class="dgp">"They kneel," said a lord who stood by, "but it is to God alone; + trust me, those men will win or die."</p> + <p class="dgp">The bold lyric of Burns is but an inspired kind of version of + the real address which Bruce is said to have made to his followers; and whoever + reads it will see that its power lies not in appeal to brute force, but to the + highest elements of our nature, the love of justice, the sense of honor, and to + disinterestedness, self-sacrifice, courage unto death.</p> + <p class="dgp">These things will live and form high and imperishable elements + of our nature, when mankind have learned to develop them in other spheres than + that of physical force. Burns's lyric, therefore, has in it an element which + may rouse the heart to noble endurance and devotion, even when the world shall + learn war no more.</p> + <p class="dgp">We passed through the town of Stirling, whose castle, + magnificently seated on a rocky throne, looks right worthy to have been the + seat of Scotland's court, as it was for many years. It brought to our minds all + the last scenes of the Lady of the Lake, which are laid here with a minuteness + of local description and allusion characteristic of Scott.</p> + <p class="dgp">According to our guide book, one might find there the visible + counterpart of every thing which he has woven into his beautiful + fiction—"the Lady's Rock, which rang to the applause of the multitude;" + "the Franciscan steeple, which pealed the merry festival;" "the sad and fatal + mound," apostrophized by Douglas,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"That oft has heard the death-axe sound</p> + <p class="l">As on the noblest of the land,</p> + <p class="l">Fell the stern headsman's bloody hand;"—</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">the room in the castle, where "a Douglas by his sovereign + bled;" and not far off the ruins of Cambuskenneth Abbey. One could not but + think of the old days Scott has described.</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The castle gates were open flung,</p> + <p class="l">The quivering drawbridge rocked and rung,</p> + <p class="l">And echoed loud the flinty street</p> + <p class="l">Beneath the coursers' clattering feet,</p> + <p class="l">As slowly down the steep descent</p> + <p class="l">Fair Scotland's king and nobles went,</p> + <p class="l">While all along the crowded way</p> + <p class="l">Was jubilee and loud huzza."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The place has been long deserted as a palace; but it is one + of the four fortresses, which, by the articles of union between Scotland and + England, are always to be kept in repair.</p> + <p class="dgp">We passed by the town of Perth, the scene of the "Fair Maid's" + adventures. We had received an invitation to visit it, but for want of time + were obliged to defer it till our return to Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">Somewhere along here Mr. S. was quite excited by our proximity + to Scone, the old crowning-place of the Scottish kings; however, the old castle + is entirely demolished, and superseded by a modern mansion, the seat of the + Earl of Mansfield.</p> + <p class="dgp">Still farther on, surrounded by dark and solemn woods, stands + Glamis Castle, the scene of the tragedy in Macbeth. We could see but a glimpse + of it from the road, but the very sound of the name was enough to stimulate our + imagination. It is still an inhabited dwelling, though much to the regret of + antiquarians and lovers of the picturesque, the characteristic outworks and + defences of the feudal ages, which surrounded it, have been levelled, and + velvet lawns and gravel walks carried to the very door. Scott, who passed a + night there in 1793, while it was yet in its pristine condition, comments on + the change mournfully, as undoubtedly a true lover of the past would. Albeit + the grass plats and the gravel walks, to the eye of sense, are undoubtedly much + more agreeable and convenient. Scott says in his Demonology, that he never came + any where near to being overcome with a superstitious feeling, except twice in + his life, and one was on the night when he slept in Glamis Castle. The poetical + and the practical elements in Scott's mind ran together, side by side, without + mixing, as evidently as the waters of the Alleghany and Monongahela at + Pittsburg. Scarcely ever a man had so much relish for the supernatural, and so + little faith in it. One must confess, however, that the most sceptical might + have been overcome at Glamis Castle, for its appearance, by all accounts, is + weird and strange, and ghostly enough to start the dullest imagination.</p> + <p class="dgp">On this occasion Scott says, "After a very hospitable reception + from the late Peter Proctor, seneschal of the castle, I was conducted to my + apartment in a distant part of the building. I must own, that when I heard door + after door shut, after my conductor had retired, I began to consider myself as + too far from the living, and somewhat too near the dead. We had passed through + what is called 'the King's Room,' a vaulted apartment, garnished with stags' + antlers and similar trophies of the chase, and said by tradition to be the spot + of Malcolm's murder, and I had an idea of the vicinity of the castle chapel. In + spite of the truth of history, the whole night scene in Macbeth's castle rushed + at once upon my mind, and struck my imagination more forcibly than even when I + have seen its terrors represented by the late John Kemble and his inimitable + sister. In a word, I experienced sensations which, though not remarkable either + for timidity or superstition, did not fail to affect me to the point of being + disagreeable, while they were mingled at the same time with a strange and + indescribable kind of pleasure."</p> + <p class="dgp">Externally, the building is quaint and singular enough; tall and + gaunt, crested with innumerable little pepper box turrets and conical towers, + like an old French chateau.</p> + <p class="dgp">Besides the tragedy of Macbeth, another story of still more + melancholy interest is connected with it, which a pen like that of Hawthorne, + might work up with gloomy power.</p> + <p class="dgp">In 1537 the young and beautiful Lady Glamis of this place was + actually tried and executed for witchcraft. Only think, now! what capabilities + in this old castle, with its gloomy pine shades, quaint architecture, and weird + associations, with this bit of historic verity to start upon.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image14.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">Walter Scott says, there is in the castle a secret chamber; the + entrance to which, by the law of the family, can be known only to three persons + at once—the lord of the castle, his heir apparent, and any third person + whom they might choose to take into their confidence. See, now, the materials + which the past gives to the novelist or poet in these old countries. These + ancient castles are standing romances, made to the author's hands. The castle + started a talk upon Shakspeare, and how much of the tragedy he made up, and how + much he found ready to his hand in tradition and history. It seems the story is + all told in Holingshed's Chronicles; but his fertile mind has added some of the + most thrilling touches, such as the sleep walking of Lady Macbeth. It always + seemed to me that this tragedy had more of the melancholy majesty and power of + the Greek than any thing modern. The striking difference is, that while fate + was the radical element of those, free will is not less distinctly the basis of + this. Strangely enough, while it commences with a supernatural oracle, there is + not a trace of fatalism in it; but through all, a clear, distinct recognition + of moral responsibility, of the power to resist evil, and the guilt of yielding + to it. The theology of Shakspeare is as remarkable as his poetry. A strong and + clear sense of man's moral responsibility and free agency, and of certain + future retribution, runs through all his plays.</p> + <p class="dgp">I enjoyed this ride to Aberdeen more than any thing we had seen + yet, the country is so wild and singular. In the afternoon we came in sight of + the German Ocean. The free, bracing air from the sea, and the thought that it + actually <em>was</em> the German Ocean, and that over the other side was + Norway, within a day's sail of us, gave it a strange, romantic charm.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Suppose we just run over to Norway," said one of us; and then + came the idea, what we should do if we got over there, seeing none of us + understood Norse.</p> + <p class="dgp">The whole coast along here is wild and rock-bound; occasionally + long points jut into the sea; the blue waves sparkle and dash against them in + little jets of foam, and the sea birds dive and scream around them.</p> + <p class="dgp">On one of these points, near the town of Stonehaven, are still + seen the ruins of Dunottar Castle, bare and desolate, surrounded on all sides + by the restless, moaning waves; a place justly held accursed as the scene of + cruelties to the Covenanters, so appalling and brutal as to make the blood boil + in the recital, even in this late day.</p> + <p class="dgp">During the reigns of Charles and James, sovereigns whom Macaulay + justly designates as Belial and Moloch, this castle was the state prison for + confining this noble people. In the reign of James, one hundred and sixty-seven + prisoners, men, women, and children, for refusing the oath of supremacy, were + arrested at their firesides: herded together like cattle; driven at the point + of the bayonet, amid the gibes, jeers, and scoffs of soldiers, up to this + dreary place, and thrust promiscuously into a dark vault in this castle; almost + smothered in filth and mire; a prey to pestilent disease, and to every + malignity which brutality could inflict, they died here unpitied. A few + escaping down the rocks were recaptured, and subjected to shocking + tortures.</p> + <p class="dgp">A moss-grown gravestone, in the parish churchyard of Dunottar, + shows the last resting-place of these sufferers.</p> + <p class="dgp">Walter Scott, who visited this place, says, "The peasantry + continue to attach to the tombs of these victims an honor which they do not + render to more splendid mausoleums; and when they point them out to their sons, + and narrate the fate of the sufferers, usually conclude by exhorting them to be + ready, should the times call for it, to resist to the death in the cause of + civil and religious liberty, like their brave forefathers."</p> + <p class="dgp">It is also related by Gilfillan, that a minister from this + vicinity, having once lost his way in travelling through a distant part of + Scotland, vainly solicited the services of a guide for some time, all being + engaged in peat-cutting; at last one of the farmers, some of whose ancestors + had been included among the sufferers, discovering that he came from this + vicinity, had seen the gravestones, and could repeat the inscriptions, was + willing to give up half a day's work to guide him on his way.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is well that such spots should be venerated as sacred shrines + among the descendants of the Covenanters, to whom Scotland owes what she is, + and all she may become.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was here that Scott first became acquainted with Robert + Paterson, the original of Old Mortality.</p> + <p class="dgp">Leaving Stonehaven we passed, on a rising ground a little to our + left, the house of the celebrated Barclay of Ury. It remains very much in its + ancient condition, surrounded by a low stone wall, like the old fortified + houses of Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">Barclay of Ury was an old and distinguished soldier, who had + fought under Gustavus Adolphus in Germany, and one of the earliest converts to + the principles of the Friends in Scotland. As a Quaker, he became an object of + hatred and abuse at the hands of the magistracy and populace; but he endured + all these insults and injuries with the greatest patience and nobleness of + soul.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I find more satisfaction," he said, "as well as honor, in being + thus insulted for my religious principles, than when, a few years ago, it was + usual for the magistrates, as I passed the city of Aberdeen, to meet me on the + road and conduct me to public entertainment in their hall, and then escort me + out again, to gain my favor."</p> + <p class="dgp">Whittier has celebrated this incident in his beautiful ballad, + called "Barclay of Ury." The son of this Barclay was the author of that Apology + which bears his name, and is still a standard work among the Friends. The + estate is still possessed by his descendants.</p> + <p class="dgp">A little farther along towards Aberdeen, Mr. S. seemed to amuse + himself very much with the idea, that we were coming near to Dugald Dalgetty's + estate of Drumthwacket, an historical remembrance which I take to be somewhat + apocryphal.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was towards the close of the afternoon that we found + ourselves crossing the Dee, in view of Aberdeen. My spirits were wonderfully + elated: the grand sea scenery and fine bracing air; the noble, distant view of + the city, rising with its harbor and shipping, all filled me with delight. + Besides which the Dee had been enchanted for me from my childhood, by a wild + old ballad which I used to hear sung to a Scottish tune, equally wild and + pathetic. I repeated it to C——, and will now to you.</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The moon had climbed the highest hill</p> + <p class="l">That rises o'er the banks of Dee,</p> + <p class="l">And from her farthest summit poured</p> + <p class="l">Her silver light o'er tower and tree,—</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">When Mary laid her down to sleep,</p> + <p class="l">Her thoughts on Sandy far at sea,</p> + <p class="l">And soft and low a voice she heard,</p> + <p class="l">Saying, 'Mary, weep no more for me.'</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">She from her pillow gently raised</p> + <p class="l">Her head, to see who there might be;</p> + <p class="l">She saw young Sandy shivering stand,</p> + <p class="l">With pallid cheek and hollow ee.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">'O Mary dear, cold is my clay;</p> + <p class="l">It lies beneath the stormy sea;</p> + <p class="l">The storm, is past, and I'm at rest;</p> + <p class="l">So, Mary, weep no more for me.'</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">Loud crew the cock; the vision fled;</p> + <p class="l">No more young Sandy could she see;</p> + <p class="l">But soft a parting whisper said,</p> + <p class="l">'Sweet Mary, weep no more for me.'"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I never saw these lines in print any where; I never knew + who wrote them; I had only heard them sung at the fireside when a child, to a + tune as dreamy and sweet as themselves; but they rose upon me like an + enchantment, as I crossed the Dee, in view of that very German Ocean, famed for + its storms and shipwrecks.</p> + <p class="dgp">In this propitious state, disposed to be pleased with every + thing, our hearts responded warmly to the greetings of the many friends who + were waiting for us at the station house.</p> + <p class="dgp">The lord provost received us into his carriage, and as we drove + along, pointed out to us the various objects of interest in the beautiful town. + Among other things, a fine old bridge across the Dee attracted our particular + attention.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were conducted to the house of Mr. Cruikshank, a Friend, and + found waiting for us there the thoughtful hospitality which we had ever + experienced in all our stopping-places. A snug little quiet supper was laid out + upon the table, of which we partook in haste, as we were informed that the + assembly at the hall were waiting to receive us.</p> + <p class="dgp">There arrived, we found the hall crowded, and with difficulty + made our way to the platform. Whether owing to the stimulating effect of the + air from the ocean, or to the comparatively social aspect of the scene, or + perhaps to both, certain it is, that we enjoyed the meeting with great zest. I + was surrounded on the stage with blooming young ladies, one of whom put into my + hands a beautiful bouquet, some flowers of which I have now dried in my album. + The refreshment tables were adorned with some exquisite wax flowers, the work, + as I was afterwards told, of a young lady in the place. One of the designs + especially interested me. It was a group of water lilies resting on a mirror, + which gave them the appearance of growing in the water.</p> + <p class="dgp">We had some very animated speaking, in which the speakers + contrived to blend enthusiastic admiration and love for America with + detestation of slavery.</p> + <p class="dgp">All the afternoon the beautiful coast had reminded me of the + State of Maine, and the genius of the meeting confirmed the association. They + seemed to me to be a plain, genial, strong, warm-hearted people, like those of + Maine.</p> + <p class="dgp">One of the speakers concluded his address by saying that John + Bull and Brother Jonathan, with Paddy and Sandy Scott, should they clasp hands + together, might stand against the world; which sentiment was responded to with + thunders of applause.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is because America, like Scotland, has stood for right + against oppression, that the Scotch love and sympathize with her. For this + reason do they feel it as something taken from the strength of a common cause, + when America sides with injustice and oppression. The children of the Covenant + and the children of the Puritans are of one blood.</p> + <p class="dgp">They presented an offering in a beautiful embroidered purse, and + after much shaking of hands we went home, and sat down to the supper table, for + a little more chat, before going to bed. The next morning,—as we had only + till noon to stay in Aberdeen,—our friends, the lord provost, and Mr. + Leslie, the architect, came immediately after breakfast to show us the + place.</p> + <p class="dgp">The town of Aberdeen is a very fine one, and owes much of its + beauty to the light-colored granite of which most of the houses are built. It + has broad, clean, beautiful streets, and many very curious and interesting + public buildings. The town exhibits that union of the hoary past with the + bustling present which is characteristic of the old world.</p> + <p class="dgp">It has two parts, the old and the new, as unlike as L'Allegro + and Penseroso—the new, clean, and modern; the old, mossy and dreamy. The + old town is called Alton, and has venerable houses, standing, many of them, in + ancient gardens. And here rises the peculiar, old, gray cathedral. These Scotch + cathedrals have a sort of stubbed appearance, and look like the expression in + stone of defiant, invincible resolution. This is of primitive granite, in the + same heavy, massive style as the cathedral of Glasgow, but having strong + individualities of its own.</p> + <p class="dgp">Whoever located the ecclesiastical buildings of England and + Scotland certainly had an exquisite perception of natural scenery; for one + notices that they are almost invariably placed on just that point of the + landscape, where the poet or the artist would say they should be. These + cathedrals, though all having a general similarity of design, seem, each one, + to have its own personality, as much as a human being. Looking at nineteen of + them is no compensation to you for omitting the twentieth; there will certainly + be something new and peculiar in that.</p> + <p class="dgp">This Aberdeen Cathedral, or Cathedral of St. Machar, is situated + on the banks of the River Don; one of those beautiful amber-brown rivers that + color the stones and pebbles at the bottom with a yellow light, such as one + sees in ancient pictures. Old trees wave and rustle around, and the building + itself, though a part of it has fallen into ruins, has, in many parts, a + wonderful clearness and sharpness of outline. I cannot describe these things to + you; architectural terms convey no picture to the mind. I can only tell you of + the character and impression it bears—a character of strong, unflinching + endurance, appropriately reminding one of the Scotch people, whom Walter Scott + compares to the native sycamore of their hills, "which scorns to be biased in + its mode of growth, even by the influence of the prevailing wind, but shooting + its branches with equal boldness in every direction, shows no weather side to + the storm, and may be broken, but can never be bended."</p> + <p class="dgp">One reason for the sharpness and distinctness of the + architectural preservation of this cathedral is probably that closeness of + texture for which Aberdeen granite is remarkable. It bears marks of the hand of + violence in many parts. The images of saints and bishops, which lie on their + backs with clasped hands, seem to have been wofully maltreated and despoiled, + in the fervor of those days, when people fondly thought that breaking down + carved work was getting rid of superstition. These granite saints and bishops, + with their mutilated fingers and broken noses, seem to be bearing a silent, + melancholy witness against that disposition in human nature, which, instead of + making clean the cup and platter, breaks them altogether.</p> + <p class="dgp">The roof of the cathedral is a splendid specimen of carving in + black oak, wrought in panels, with leaves and inscriptions in ancient text. The + church could once boast in other parts (so says an architectural work) a + profusion of carved woodwork of the same character, which must have greatly + relieved the massive plainness of the interior.</p> + <p class="dgp">In 1649, the parish minister attacked the "High Altar," a piece + of the most splendid workmanship of any thing of the kind in Europe, and which + had to that time remained inviolate; perhaps from the insensible influence of + its beauty. It is said that the carpenter employed for the purpose was so + struck with the noble workmanship, that he refused to touch it till the + minister took the hatchet from his hand and gave the first blow.</p> + <p class="dgp">These men did not consider that "the leprosy lies deep within," + and that when human nature is denied beautiful idols, it will go after ugly + ones. There has been just as unspiritual a resting in coarse, bare, and + disagreeable adjuncts of religion, as in beautiful and agreeable ones; men have + worshipped Juggernaut as pertinaciously as they have Venus or the Graces; so + that the good divine might better have aimed a sermon at the heart than an axe + at the altar.</p> + <p class="dgp">We lingered a long time around here, and could scarcely tear + ourselves away. We paced up and down under the old trees, looking off on the + waters of the Don, listening to the waving branches, and falling into a dreamy + state of mind, thought what if it were six hundred years ago! and we were pious + simple hearted old abbots! What a fine place that would be to walk up and down + at eventide or on a Sabbath morning, reciting the penitential psalms, or + reading St. Augustine!</p> + <p class="dgp">I cannot get over the feeling, that the souls of the dead do + somehow connect themselves with the places of their former habitation, and that + the hush and thrill of spirit, which we feel in them, may be owing to the + overshadowing presence of the invisible. St. Paul says, "We are compassed about + with a great cloud of witnesses." How can they be witnesses, if they cannot see + and be cognizant?</p> + <p class="dgp">We left the place by a winding walk, to go to the famous bridge + of Balgounie, another dream-land affair, not far from here. It is a single gray + stone arch, apparently cut from solid rock, that spans the brown rippling + waters, where wild, overhanging banks, shadowy trees, and dipping wild flowers, + all conspire to make a romantic picture. This bridge, with the river and + scenery, were poetic items that went, with other things, to form the sensitive + mind of Byron, who lived here in his earlier days. He has some lines about + it:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"As 'auld lang syne' brings Scotland, one and all,</p> + <p class="l">Scotch, plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear + streams,</p> + <p class="l">The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's brig's black wall,</p> + <p class="l">All my boy-feelings, all my gentler dreams,</p> + <p class="l">Of what I then dreamt clothed in their own pall,</p> + <p class="l">Like Banquo's offspring,—floating past me seems</p> + <p class="l">My childhood, in this childishness of mind:</p> + <p class="l">I care not—'tis a glimpse of 'auld lang syne.'"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image15.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">This old bridge has a prophecy connected with it, which was + repeated to us, and you shall have it literatim:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Brig of Balgounie, black's your wa',</p> + <p class="l">Wi' a wife's ae son, and a mare's a foal,</p> + <p class="l">Doon ye shall fa'!"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The bridge was built in the time of Robert Bruce, by one + Bishop Cheyne, of whom all that I know is, that he evidently had a good eye for + the picturesque.</p> + <p class="dgp">After this we went to visit King's College. The tower of it is + surmounted by a massive stone crown, which forms a very singular feature in + every view of Aberdeen, and is said to be a perfectly unique specimen of + architecture. This King's College is very old, being founded also by a bishop, + as far back as the fifteenth century. It has an exquisitely carved roof, and + carved oaken seats. We went through the library, the hall, and the museum. + Certainly, the old, dark architecture of these universities must tend to form a + different style of mind from our plain matter-of-fact college buildings.</p> + <p class="dgp">Here in Aberdeen is the veritable Marischal College, so often + quoted by Dugald Dalgetty. We had not time to go and see it, but I can assure + you on the authority of the guide book, that it is a magnificent specimen of + architecture.</p> + <p class="dgp">After this, that we might not neglect the present in our zeal + for the past, we went to the marble yards, where they work the Aberdeen + granite. This granite, of which we have many specimens in America, is of two + kinds, one being gray, the other of a reddish hue. It seems to differ from + other granite in the fineness and closeness of its grain, which enables it to + receive the most brilliant conceivable polish. I saw some superb columns of the + red species, which were preparing to go over the Baltic to Riga, for an + Exchange; and a sepulchral monument, which was going to New York. All was busy + here, sawing, chipping, polishing; as different a scene from the gray old + cathedral as could be imagined. The granite finds its way, I suppose, to + countries which the old, unsophisticated abbots never dreamed of.</p> + <p class="dgp">One of the friends who had accompanied us during the morning + tour was the celebrated architect, Mr. Leslie, whose conversation gave us all + much enjoyment. He and Mrs. Leslie gave me a most invaluable parting present, + to wit, four volumes of engravings, representing the "Baronial and + Ecclesiastical Antiquities of Scotland," illustrated by Billings. I cannot tell + you what a mine of pleasure it has been to me. It is a proof edition, and the + engravings are so vivid, and the drawing so fine, that it is nearly as good as + reality. It might almost save one the trouble of a pilgrimage. I consider the + book a kind of national poem; for architecture is, in its nature, poetry; + especially in these old countries, where it weaves into itself a nation's + history, and gives literally the image and body of the times.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_24" name="toc_24"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter VII</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear + Cousin</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">While here in Aberdeen I received a very odd letter, so peculiar + and curious that I will give you the benefit of it. The author appears to be, + in his way, a kind of Christopher in his cave, or Timon of Athens. I omit some + parts which are more expressive than agreeable. It is dated</p> + <div class="display"> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">"STONEHAVEN, N.B., + Kincardineshire,</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: right">57° N.W. This 21st April, + 1853.</p> + <p class="dgp">"To <span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Mrs. + Harriet B. Stowe</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"My dear Madam: By the time that this gets your length, the + fouk o' Aberdeen will be shewin ye off as a rare animal, just arrived frae + America; the wife that writ Uncle Tom's Cabin.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I wad like to see ye mysel, but I canna win for want o' + siller, and as I thought ye might be writin a buke about the Scotch when ye + get hame, I hae just sent ye this bit auld key to Sawney's Cabin.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Well then, dinna forget to speer at the Aberdeenians if it be + true they ance kidnappet little laddies, and selt them for slaves; that they + dang down the Quaker's kirkyard dyke, and houket up dead Quakers out o' their + graves; that the young boys at the college printed a buke, and maist naebody + wad buy it, and they cam out to Ury, near Stonehaven, and took twelve stots + frae Davie Barclay to pay the printer.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Dinna forget to speer at ——, if it was true that + he flogget three laddies in the beginning o' last year, for the three + following crimes: first, for the crime of being born of puir, ignorant + parents; second, for the crime of being left in ignorance; and, third, for + the crime of having nothing to eat.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Dinna be telling when ye gang hame that ye rode on the + Aberdeen railway, made by a hundred men, who were all in the Stonehaven + prison for drunkenness; nor above five could sign their names.</p> + <p class="dgp">"If the Scotch kill ye with ower feeding and making speeches, + be sure to send this hame to tell your fouk, that it was Queen Elizabeth who + made the first European law to buy and sell human beings like brute beasts. + She was England's glory as a Protestant, and Scotland's shame as the murderer + of their bonnie Mary. The auld hag skulked away like a coward in the hour of + death. Mary, on the other hand, with calmness and dignity, repeated a Latin + prayer to the Great Spirit and Author of her being, and calmly resigned + herself into the hands of her murderers.</p> + <p class="dgp">"In the capital of her ancient kingdom, when ye are in our + country, there are eight hundred women, sent to prison every year for the + first time. Of fifteen thousand prisoners examined in Scotland in the year + 1845, eight thousand could not write at all, and three thousand could not + read.</p> + <p class="dgp">"At present there are about twenty thousand prisoners in + Scotland. In Stonehaven they are fed at about seventeen pounds each, + annually. The honest poor, outside the prison upon the parish roll, are fed + at the rate of five farthings a day, or two pounds a year. The employment of + the prisoners is grinding the wind, we ca' it; turning the crank, in plain + English. The latest improvement is the streekin board; it's a whig + improvement o' Lord Jonnie Russell's.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I ken brawly ye are a curious wife, and would like to ken a' + about the Scotch bodies. Weel, they are a gay, ignorant, proud, drunken pack; + they manage to pay ilka year for whuskey one million three hundred and + forty-eight thousand pounds.</p> + <p class="dgp">"But then their piety, their piety; weel, let's luke at it; + hing it up by the nape o' the neck, and turn it round atween our finger and + thumb on all sides.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Is there one school in all Scotland where the helpless, + homeless poor are fed and clothed at the public expense? None.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Is there a hame in all Scotland for the cleanly but sick + servant maid to go till, until health be restored? Alas! there is none.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Is there a school in all Scotland for training ladies in the + higher branches of learning? None. What then is there for the women of + Scotland?</p> + <br /> + + <p class="noindent">"A weel, be sure and try a cupful of Scottish Kail + Broase. See, and get a sup Scotch <em>lang milk</em>.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Hand this bit line yout to the Rev. Mr. ——. Tell + him to store out fats nae true.</p> + <p class="dgp">"God bless you, and set you safe hame, is the prayer of the + old Scotch Bachelor."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I think you will agree with me, that the old testifying + spirit does not seem to have died out in Scotland, and that the backslidings + and abominations of the land do not want for able exponents.</p> + <p class="dgp">As the indictment runs back to the time of Charles II., to the + persecutions of the Quakers in the days of Barclay of Ury, and brings up again + the most modern offences, one cannot but feel that there are the most savory + indications in it of Scotch thoroughness.</p> + <p class="dgp">Some of the questions which he wishes to have me + "<em>speer</em>" at Aberdeen, I fear, alas! would bring but an indifferent + answer even in Boston, which gives a high school only to boys, and allows none + to girls. On one point, it seems to me, my friend might speer himself to + advantage, and that is the very commendable efforts which are being made now in + Edinburgh and Aberdeen both, in the way of educating the children of the + poor.</p> + <p class="dgp">As this is one of the subjects which are particularly on my + mind, and as all information which we can get upon this subject is peculiarly + valuable to us in view of commencing efforts in America, I will abridge for you + an account of the industrial schools of Aberdeen, published by the society for + improving the condition of the laboring classes, in their paper called the + Laborer's Friend.</p> + <p class="dgp">In June, 1841, it was ascertained that in Aberdeen there were + two hundred and eighty children, under fourteen years of age, who maintained + themselves professedly by begging, but partly by theft. The first effort to + better the moral condition of these children brought with it the discovery + which our philanthropists made in New York, that in order to do good to a + starving child, we must begin by feeding him; that we must gain his confidence + by showing him a benevolence which he can understand, and thus proceed + gradually to the reformation of his spiritual nature.</p> + <p class="dgp">In 1841, therefore, some benevolent individuals in Aberdeen + hired rooms and a teacher, and gave out notice among these poor children that + they could there be supplied with food, work, and instruction. The general + arrangement of the day was four hours of lessons, five hours of work, and three + substantial meals. These meals were employed as the incitement to the lessons + and the work, since it was made an indispensable condition to each meal that + the child should have been present at the work or lessons which preceded it. + This arrangement worked admirably; so that they reported that the attendance + was more regular than at ordinary schools.</p> + <p class="dgp">The whole produce of the work of the children goes towards + defraying the expense of the establishment, thus effecting several important + purposes,—reducing the expense of the school, and teaching the children, + practically, the value of their industry,—in procuring for them food and + instruction, and fostering in them, from the first, a sound principle of + self-dependence; inasmuch as they know, from the moment of their entering + school, that they give, or pay, in return for their food and education, all the + work they are capable of performing.</p> + <p class="dgp">The institution did not profess to clothe the children; but by + the kindness of benevolent persons who take an interest in the school, there is + generally a stock of old clothes on hand, from which the most destitute are + supplied.</p> + <p class="dgp">The following is the daily routine of the school: The scholars + assemble every morning at seven in summer, and eight in winter. The school is + opened by reading the Scriptures, praise, and prayer, and religious instruction + suited to their years; after which there is a lesson in geography, or the more + ordinary facts of natural history, taught by means of maps and prints + distributed along the walls of the school room; two days in the week they have + a singing lesson; at nine they breakfast on porridge and milk, and have half an + hour of play; at ten they again assemble in school, and are employed at work + till two. At two o'clock they dine; usually on broth, with coarse wheaten + bread, but occasionally on potatoes and ox-head soup, &c. The diet is very + plain, but nutritious and abundant, and appears to suit the tastes of the + pupils completely. It is a pleasing sight to see them assembled, with their + youthful appetites sharpened by four hours' work, joining, at least with + outward decorum, in asking God's blessing on the food he has provided for them, + and most promptly availing themselves of the signal given to commence their + dinner.</p> + <p class="dgp">From dinner till three, the time is spent in exercise or + recreation, occasionally working in the garden; from three to four, they work + either in the garden or in the work room; from four till seven, they are + instructed in reading, writing, and arithmetic. At seven they have supper of + porridge and milk; and after short religious exercises, are dismissed to their + homes at eight.</p> + <p class="dgp">On Saturday, they do not return to school after dinner; and + occasionally, as a reward of good behavior, they accompany the teacher in a + walk to the country or the sea coast.</p> + <p class="dgp">On Sunday, they assemble at half past eight for devotion; + breakfast at nine; attend worship in the school room; after which they dine, + and return home, so as, if possible, to go with their parents to church in the + afternoon.</p> + <p class="dgp">At five they again meet, and have <em>Sabbath school</em> + instruction in Bible and catechism; at seven, supper; and after evening worship + are dismissed.</p> + <p class="dgp">From this detail it will be seen that these schools differ from + common day schools. In day schools, neither food nor employment is + provided—teaching only is proposed, with a very little moral + training.</p> + <p class="dgp">The principle on which the industrial school proceeds, of giving + employment along with instruction—especially as that employment is + designed at the same time, if possible, to teach a trade which may be + afterwards available—appears of the highest value. It is a practical + discipline—a moral training, the importance of which cannot be + over-estimated.</p> + <p class="dgp">In a common school, too, there can be but little moral training, + however efficiently the school may be conducted, just because there is little + opportunity given for the development and display of individual character. The + whole management of a school requires that the pupils be as speedily as + possible brought to a uniform outward conduct, and thus an appearance of good + behavior and propriety is produced within the school room, which is too often + cast aside and forgotten the moment the pupils pass the threshold.</p> + <p class="dgp">The remark was once made by an experienced teacher, that for the + purposes of moral training he valued more the time he spent with his pupils at + their games, than that which was spent in the school room.</p> + <p class="dgp">The pecuniary value of the work done in these schools is not so + great as was at first hoped, from the difficulty of procuring employment such + as children so neglected could perform to advantage. The real value of the + thing, however, they consider lies in the habits of industry and the sense of + independence thus imparted.</p> + <p class="dgp">At the outset the managers of the school regretted extremely + their want of ability to furnish lodgings to the children. It was thought and + said that the homes, to which the majority of them were obliged to return after + school hours, would deprave faster than any instruction could reform. + Fortunately it was impossible, at the time, to provide lodging for the + children, and thus an experience was wrought out most valuable to all future + laborers in this field.</p> + <p class="dgp">The managers report that after six years' trial, the instances + where evil results from the children returning home, are very rare; while there + have been most cheering instances of substantial good being carried by the + child, from the school, through the whole family. There are few parents, + especially mothers, so abandoned as not to be touched by kindness shown to + their offspring. It is the direct road to the mother's heart. Show kindness to + her child, and she is prepared at once to second your efforts on its behalf. + She must be debased, indeed, who will not listen to her child repeating its + text from the Bible, or singing a verse of its infant hymn; and by this means + the first seeds of a new life may be, and have been, planted in the parent's + heart.</p> + <p class="dgp">In cases where parents are so utterly depraved as to make it + entirely hopeless to reform the child at home, they have found it the best + course to board them, two or three together, in respectable families; the + influences of the family state being held to be essential.</p> + <p class="dgp">The success which attended the boys' school of industry soon led + to the establishment of one for girls, conducted on the same principles; and it + is stated that the change wrought among poor, outcast girls, by these means, + was even more striking and gratifying than among the boys.</p> + <p class="dgp">After these schools had been some time in operation, it was + discovered that there were still multitudes of depraved children who could not + or did not avail themselves of these privileges. It was determined by the + authorities of the city of Aberdeen, in conformity with the Scripture + injunction, to go out into the highways and hedges and <em>compel</em> them to + come in. Under the authority of the police act they proposed to lay hold of the + whole of the juvenile vagrants, and provide them with food and instruction.</p> + <p class="dgp">Instructions were given to the police, on the 19th of May, 1845, + to convey every child found begging to the soup kitchen; and, in the course of + the day, seventy-five were collected, of whom four only could read. The scene + which ensued is indescribable. Confusion and uproar, quarrelling and fighting, + language of the most hateful description, and the most determined rebellion + against every thing like order and regularity, gave the gentlemen engaged in + the undertaking of taming them the hardest day's work they had ever + encountered. Still, they so far prevailed, that, by evening, their authority + was comparatively established. When dismissed, the children were invited to + return next day—informed that, of course, they could do so or not, as + they pleased, and that, if they did, they should be fed and instructed, but + that, whether they came or not, begging would not be tolerated. Next day, the + <em>greater part</em> returned. The managers felt that they had triumphed, and + that a great field of moral usefulness was now secured to them.</p> + <p class="dgp">The class who were brought to this school were far below those + who attend the other two institutions—low as they appeared to be when the + schools were first opened; and the scenes of filth, disease, and misery, + exhibited even in the school itself, were such as would speedily have driven + from the work all merely sentimental philanthropists. Those who undertake this + work must have sound, strong principle to influence them, else they will soon + turn from it in disgust.</p> + <p class="dgp">The school went on prosperously; it soon excited public + interest; funds flowed in; and, what is most gratifying, the working classes + took a lively interest in it; and while the wealthier inhabitants of Aberdeen + contributed during the year about one hundred and fifty pounds for its support, + the working men collected, and handed over to the committee, no less than two + hundred and fifty pounds.</p> + <p class="dgp">Very few children in attendance at the industrial schools have + been convicted of any offence. The regularity of attendance is owing to the + children receiving their food in the school; and the school hours being from + seven in the morning till seven at night, there is little opportunity for the + commission of crime.</p> + <p class="dgp">The experience acquired in these schools, and the connection + which most of the managers had with the criminal courts of the city, led to the + opening of a fourth institution—the Child's Asylum. Acting from day to + day as judges, these gentlemen had occasionally cases brought before them which + gave them extreme pain. Children—nay, infants—were brought up on + criminal charges: the facts alleged against them were incontestably proved; and + yet, in a moral sense, they could scarcely be held <em>guilty</em>, because, in + truth, they did not know that they had done wrong.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were, however, great practical difficulties in the way, + which could only be got over indirectly. The magistrate could adjourn the case, + directing the child to be cared for in the mean time, and inquiry could be made + as to his family and relations, as to his character, and the prospect of his + doing better in future; and he could either be restored to his relations, or + boarded in the house of refuge, or with a family, and placed at one or other of + the industrial schools; the charge of crime still remaining against him, to be + made use of at once if he deserted school and returned to evil courses.</p> + <p class="dgp">The great advantage sought here was to avoid stamping the child + for life with the character of a convicted felon before he deserved it. Once + thus brand a child in this country, and it is all but impossible for him ever, + by future good conduct, to efface the mask. How careful ought the law and those + who administer it to be, not rashly to impress this stigma on the neglected + child!</p> + <p class="dgp">The Child's Asylum was opened on the 4th of December, 1846; and + as a proof of the efficiency of the industrial schools in checking juvenile + vagrancy and delinquency, it may be noticed that nearly a week elapsed before a + child was brought to the asylum. When a child is apprehended by the police for + begging, or other misdemeanor, he is conveyed to this institution, and his case + is investigated; for which purpose the committee meets daily. If the child be + of destitute parents, he is sent to one of the industrial schools; if the child + of a worthless, but not needy, parent, efforts are made to induce the parent to + fulfil his duty, and exercise his authority in restraining the evil habits of + the child, by sending him to school, or otherwise removing him out of the way + of temptation.</p> + <p class="dgp">From the 4th of December up to the 18th of March, forty-seven + cases, several of them more than once, had been brought up and carefully + inquired into. Most of them were disposed of in the manner now stated; but a + few were either claimed by, or remitted to, the procurator fiscal, as proper + objects of punishment.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is premature to say much of an institution which has existed + for so short a time; but if the principle on which it is founded be as correct + and sound as it appears, it must prosper and do good. There is, however, one + great practical difficulty, which can only be removed by legislative enactment: + there is no power at present to <em>detain</em> the children in the Asylum, or + to force them to attend the schools to which they have been Bent.</p> + <p class="dgp">Such have been the rise and progress of the four industrial + schools in Aberdeen, including, as one of them, the Child's Asylum.</p> + <p class="dgp">All the schools are on the most catholic basis, the only + qualification for membership being a subscription of a few shillings a year; + and the doors are open to all who require admission, without distinction of + sect or party.</p> + <p class="dgp">The experience, then, of Aberdeen appears to demonstrate the + possibility of reclaiming even the most abject and depraved of our juvenile + population at a very moderate expense. The schools have been so long in + operation, that, if there had been anything erroneous in the principles or the + management of them, it must ere now have appeared; and if all the results have + been encouraging, why should not the system be extended and established in + other places? There is nothing in it which may not easily be copied in any town + or village of our land where it is required.</p> + <p class="dgp">I cannot help adding to this account some directions, which a + very experienced teacher in these schools gives to those who are desirous of + undertaking this enterprise.</p> + <p class="dgp">"1. The school rooms and appurtenances ought to be of the + plainest and most unpretending description. This is perfectly consistent with + the most scrupulous cleanliness and complete ventilation. In like manner, the + food should be wholesome, substantial, and abundant, but very plain—such + as the boys or girls may soon be able to attain, or even surpass, by their own + exertions after leaving school.</p> + <p class="dgp">"2. The teachers must ever be of the best description, patient + and persevering, not easily discouraged, and thoroughly versed in whatever + branch they may have to teach; and, above all things, they must be persons of + solid and undoubted piety—for without this qualification, all others + will, in the end, prove worthless and unavailing.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Throughout the day, the children must ever be kept in mind + that, after all, religion is 'the one thing needful;' that the soul is of more + value than the body.</p> + <p class="dgp">"3. <em>The schools must be kept of moderate size</em>: from + their nature this is absolutely necessary. It is a task of the greatest + difficulty to manage, in a satisfactory manner, a large school of children, + even of the higher classes, with all the advantages of careful home-training + and superintendence; but with industrial schools it is folly to attempt it.</p> + <p class="dgp">"From eighty to one hundred scholars is the largest number that + ever should be gathered into one institution; when they exceed this, <em>let + additional schools be opened</em>; in other words, <em>increase the number, not + the size, of the schools</em>. They should be put down in the localities most + convenient for the scholars, so that distance may be no bar to attendance; and + if circumstances permit, a garden, either at the school or at no very great + distance, will be of great utility.</p> + <p class="dgp">"4. As soon as practicable, the children should be taught, and + kept steadily at, some trade or other, by which they may earn their subsistence + on leaving school; for the longer they have pursued this particular occupation + at school, the more easily will they be able thereby to support themselves + afterwards.</p> + <p class="dgp">"As to commencing schools in new places, the best way of + proceeding is for a few persons, who are of one mind on the subject, to unite, + advance from their own purses, or raise among their friends, the small sum + necessary at the outset, get their teacher, open their school, and collect a + few scholars, gradually extend the number, and when they have made some + progress, then tell the public what they have been doing; ask them to come and + see; and, if they approve, to give their money and support. Public meetings and + eloquent speeches are excellent things for exciting interest and raising funds, + but they are of no use in carrying on the every-day work of the school.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Let not the managers expect impossibilities. There will be + crime and distress in spite of industrial schools; but they may be immensely + reduced; and let no one be discouraged by the occasional lapse into a crime of + a promising pupil. Such things must be while sin reigns in the heart of man; + let them only be thereby stirred up to greater and more earnest exertion in + their work.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Let them be most careful as to the parties whom they admit to + <em>act</em> along with them; for unless <em>all</em> the laborers be of one + heart and mind, divisions must ensue, and the whole work be marred.</p> + <p class="dgp">"It is most desirable that as many persons as possible of wealth + and influence should lend their aid in supporting these institutions. Patrons + and subscribers should be of all ranks and denominations; but they must beware + of interfering with the actual daily working of the school, which ought to be + left to the unfettered energies of those who, by their zeal, their activity, + their sterling principle, and their successful administration, have proved + themselves every way competent to the task they have undertaken.</p> + <p class="dgp">"If the managers wish to carry out the good effect of their + schools to the utmost, then they will not confine their labor to the scholars; + <em>they will, through them, get access to the parents</em>. The good which the + ladies of the Aberdeen Female School have already thus accomplished is not to + be told; but let none try this work who do not experimentally know the value of + the immortal soul."</p> + <p class="dgp">Industrial schools seem to open a bright prospect to the + hitherto neglected outcasts of our cities; for them a new era seems to be + commencing: they are no longer to be restrained and kept in order by the iron + bars of the prison house, and taught morality by the scourge of the + executioner. They are now to be treated as reasonable and immortal beings; and + may He who is the God of the poor as well as the rich give his effectual + blessing with them, wherever they may be established, so that they may be a + source of joy and rejoicing to all ranks of society.</p> + <p class="dgp">Such is the result of the "speerings" recommended by my worthy + correspondent. I have given them much at length, because they are useful to us + in the much needed reforms commencing in our cities.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to the appalling statements about intemperance, I grieve to + say that they are confirmed by much which must meet the eye even of the passing + stranger. I have said before how often the natural features of this country + reminded me of the State of Maine. Would that the beneficent law which has + removed, to so great an extent, pauperism and crime from that noble state might + also be given to Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">I suppose that the efforts for the benefit of the poorer classes + in this city might be paralleled by efforts of a similar nature in the other + cities of Scotland, particularly in Edinburgh, where great exertions have been + making; but I happened to have a more full account of these in Aberdeen, and so + give them as specimens of the whole. I must say, however, that in no city which + I visited in Scotland did I see such neatness, order, and thoroughness, as in + Aberdeen; and in none did there appear to be more gratifying evidences of + prosperity and comfort among that class which one sees along the streets and + thoroughfares.</p> + <p class="dgp">About two o'clock we started from Aberdeen among crowds of + friends, to whom we bade farewell with real regret.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our way at first lay over the course of yesterday, along that + beautiful sea coast—beautiful to the eye, but perilous to the navigator. + They told us that the winds and waves raged here with an awful power. Not long + before we came, the Duke of Sutherland, an iron steamer, was wrecked upon this + shore. In one respect the coast of Maine has decidedly the advantage over this, + and, indeed, of every other sea coast which I have ever visited; and that is in + the richness of the wooding, which veils its picturesque points and capes in + luxuriant foldings of verdure.</p> + <p class="dgp">At Stonehaven station, where we stopped a few minutes, there was + quite a gathering of the inhabitants to exchange greetings, and afterwards at + successive stations along the road, many a kindly face and voice made our + journey a pleasant one.</p> + <p class="dgp">When we got into old Dundee it seemed all alive with welcome. We + went in the carriage with the lord provost, Mr. Thoms, to his residence, where + a party had been waiting dinner for us some time.</p> + <p class="dgp">The meeting in the evening was in a large church, densely + crowded, and conducted much as the others had been. When they came to sing the + closing hymn, I hoped they would sing Dundee; but they did not, and I fear in + Scotland, as elsewhere, the characteristic national melodies are giving way + before more modern ones.</p> + <p class="dgp">On the stage we were surrounded by many very pleasant people, + with whom, between the services, we talked without knowing their names. The + venerable Dr. Dick, the author of the Christian Philosopher and the Philosophy + of the Future State, was there. Gilfillan was also present, and spoke. Together + with their contribution to the Scottish offering, they presented me with quite + a collection of the works of different writers of Dundee, beautifully + bound.</p> + <p class="dgp">We came away before the exercises of the evening were + finished.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next morning we had quite a large breakfast party, mostly + ministers and their wives. Good old Dr. Dick was there, and I had an + introduction to him, and had pleasure in speaking to him of the interest with + which his works have been read in America. Of this fact I was told that he had + received more substantial assurance in a comfortable sum of money subscribed + and remitted to him by his American readers. If this be so it is a most + commendable movement.</p> + <p class="dgp">What a pity it was, during Scott's financial embarrassments, + that every man, woman, and child in America, who had received pleasure from his + writings, had not subscribed something towards an offering justly due to + him!</p> + <p class="dgp">Our host, Mr. Thoms, was one of the first to republish in + Scotland Professor Stuart's Letters to Dr. Channing, with a preface of his own. + He showed me Professor Stuart's letter in reply, and seemed rather amused that + the professor directed it to the Rev. James Thom, supposing, of course, that so + much theological zeal could not inhere in a layman. He also showed us many + autograph letters of their former pastor, Mr. Cheyne, whose interesting memoirs + have excited a good deal of attention in some circles in America.</p> + <p class="dgp">After breakfast the ladies of the Dundee Antislavery Society + called, and then the lord provost took us in his carriage to see the city. + Dundee is the third town of Scotland in population, and a place of great + antiquity. Its population in 1851 was seventy-eight thousand eight hundred and + twenty-nine, and the manufactures consist principally of yarns, linen, with + canvas and cotton bagging, great quantities of which are exported to France and + North and South America. There are about sixty spinning mills and factories in + the town and neighborhood, besides several iron founderies and manufactories of + steam engines and machinery.</p> + <p class="dgp">Dundee has always been a stronghold of liberty and the reformed + religion. It is said that in the grammar school of this town William Wallace + was educated; and here an illustrious confraternity of noblemen and gentry was + formed, who joined to resist the tyranny of England.</p> + <p class="dgp">Here Wishart preached in the beginning of the reformation, + preparatory to his martyrdom. Here flourished some rude historical writers, who + devoted their talents to the downfall of Popery. Singularly enough, they + accomplished this in part by dramatic representations, in which the vices and + absurdities of the Papal establishment were ridiculed before the people. Among + others, one James Wedderburn and his brother, John, vicar of Dundee, are + mentioned as having excelled in this kind of composition. The same authors + composed books of song, denominated "Gude and Godly Ballads," wherein the + frauds and deceits of Popery were fully pointed out. A third brother of the + family, being a musical genius, it is said, "turned the times and tenor of many + profane songs into godly songs and hymns, whereby he stirred up the affections + of many," which tunes were called the Psalms of Dundee. Here, perhaps, was the + origin of "Dundee's wild warbling measures."</p> + <p class="dgp">The conjoint forces of tragedy, comedy, ballads, and music, thus + brought to bear on the popular mind, was very great.</p> + <p class="dgp">Dundee has been a great sufferer during the various civil + commotions in Scotland. In the time of Charles I. it stood out for the solemn + league and covenant, for which crime the Earl of Montrose was sent against it, + who took and burned it. It is said that he called Dundee a most seditious town, + the securest haunt and receptacle of rebels, and a place that had contributed + as much as any other to the rebellion. Yet afterwards, when Montrose was led a + captive through Dundee, the historian observes, "It is remarkable of the town + of Dundee, in which he lodged one night, that though it had suffered more by + his army than any town else within the kingdom, yet were they, amongst all the + rest, so far from exulting over him, that the whole town testified a great deal + of sorrow for his woful condition; and there was he likewise furnished with + clothes suitable to his birth and person."</p> + <p class="dgp">This town of Dundee was stormed by Monk and the forces of + Parliament during the time of the commonwealth, because they had sheltered the + fugitive Charles II., and granted him money. When taken by Monk, he committed a + great many barbarities.</p> + <p class="dgp">It has also been once visited by the plague, and once with a + seven years' dearth or famine.</p> + <p class="dgp">Most of these particulars I found in a History of Dundee, which + formed one of the books presented to me.</p> + <p class="dgp">The town is beautifully situated on the Firth of Tay, which here + spreads its waters, and the quantity of shipping indicates commercial + prosperity.</p> + <p class="dgp">I was shown no abbeys or cathedrals, either because none ever + existed, or because they were destroyed when the town was fired.</p> + <p class="dgp">In our rides about the city, the local recollections that our + friends seemed to recur to with as much interest as any, were those connected + with the queen's visit to Dundee, in 1844. The spot where she landed has been + commemorated by the erection of a superb triumphal arch in stone. The provost + said some of the people were quite astonished at the plainness of the queen's + dress, having looked for something very dazzling and overpowering from a queen. + They could scarcely believe their eyes, when they saw her riding by in a plain + bonnet, and enveloped in a simple shepherd's plaid.</p> + <p class="dgp">The queen is exceedingly popular in Scotland, doubtless in part + because she heartily appreciated the beauty of the country, and the strong and + interesting traits of the people. She has a country residence at Balmorrow, + where she spends a part of every year; and the impression seems to prevail + among her Scottish subjects, that she never appears to feel herself more happy + or more at home than in this her Highland dwelling. The legend is, that here + she delights to throw off the restraints of royalty; to go about plainly + dressed, like a private individual; to visit in the cottages of the poor; to + interest herself in the instruction of the children; and to initiate the future + heir of England into that practical love of the people which is the best + qualification for a ruler.</p> + <p class="dgp">I repeat to you the things which I hear floating of the public + characters of England, and you can attach what degree of credence you may think + proper. As a general rule in this censorious world, I think it safe to suppose + that the good which is commonly reported of public characters, if not true in + the letter of its details, is at least so in its general spirit. The stories + which are told about distinguished people generally run in a channel coincident + with the facts of their character. On the other hand, with regard to evil + reports, it is safe always to allow something for the natural propensity to + detraction and slander, which is one of the most undoubted facts of human + nature in all lands.</p> + <p class="dgp">We left Dundee at two o'clock, by cars, for Edinburgh. In the + evening we attended another <em>soirée</em> of the working men of + Edinburgh. As it was similar in all respects to the one at Glasgow, I will not + dwell upon it, further than to say how gratifying to me, in every respect, are + occasions in which working men, as a class, stand out before the public. + <em>They</em> are to form, more and more, a new power in society, greater than + the old power of helmet and sword, and I rejoice in every indication that they + are learning to understand themselves.</p> + <p class="dgp">We have received letters from the working men, both in Dundee + and Glasgow, desiring our return to attend <em>soirées</em> in those + cities. Nothing could give us greater pleasure, had we time and strength. No + class of men are more vitally interested in the conflict of freedom against + slavery than working men. The principle upon which slavery is founded touches + every interest of theirs. If it be right that one half of the community should + deprive the other half of education, of all opportunities to rise in the world, + of all property rights and all family ties, merely to make them more convenient + tools for their profit and luxury, then every injustice and extortion, which + oppresses the laboring man in any country, can be equally defended.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_25" name="toc_25"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter VIII</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear + Aunt E.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">You wanted us to write about our visit to Melrose; so here you + have it.</p> + <p class="dgp">On Tuesday morning Mr. S. and C—— had agreed to go + back to Glasgow for the purpose of speaking at a temperance meeting, and as we + were restricted for time, we were obliged to make the visit to Melrose in their + absence, much to the regret of us all. G—— thought we would make a + little quiet run out in the cars by ourselves, while Mr. S. and C—— + were gone back to Glasgow.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was one of those soft, showery, April days, misty and + mystical, now weeping and now shining, that we found ourselves whirled by the + cars through this enchanted ground of Scotland. Almost every name we heard + spoken along the railroad, every stream we passed, every point we looked at, + recalled some line of Walter Scott's poetry, or some event of history. The + thought that he was gone forever, whose genius had given the charm to all, + seemed to settle itself down like a melancholy mist. To how little purpose + seemed the few, short years of his life, compared with the capabilities of such + a soul! Brilliant as his success had been, how was it passed like a dream! It + seemed sad to think that he had not only passed away himself, but that almost + the whole family and friendly circle had passed with him—not a son left + to bear his name!</p> + <p class="dgp">Here we were in the region of the Ettrick, the Yarrow, and the + Tweed. I opened the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and, as if by instinct, the first + lines my eye fell upon were these:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Call it not vain: they do not err</p> + <p class="l">Who say, that when the poet dies,</p> + <p class="l">Mute nature mourns her worshipper,</p> + <p class="l">And celebrates his obsequies;</p> + <p class="l">Who say, tall cliff and cavern lone</p> + <p class="l">For the departed bard make moan;</p> + <p class="l">That mountains weep in crystal rill;</p> + <p class="l">That flowers in tears of balm distil;</p> + <p class="l">Through his loved groves that breezes sigh,</p> + <p class="l">And oaks, in deeper groan, reply;</p> + <p class="l">And rivers teach their rushing wave</p> + <p class="l">To murmur dirges round his grave."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">"Melrose!" said the loud voice of the conductor; and + starting, I looked up and saw quite a flourishing village, in the midst of + which rose the old, gray, mouldering walls of the abbey. Now, this was somewhat + of a disappointment to me. I had been somehow expecting to find the building + standing alone in the middle of a great heath, far from all abodes of men, and + with no companions more hilarious than the owls. However, it was no use + complaining; the fact was, there was a village, and what was more, a hotel, and + to this hotel we were to go to get a guide for the places we were to visit; for + it was understood that we were to "<em>do</em>" Melrose, Dryburgh, and + Abbotsford, all in one day. There was no time for sentiment; it was a business + affair, that must be looked in the face promptly, if we meant to get through. + Ejaculations and quotations of poetry could, of course, be thrown in, as + William, of Deloraine pattered his prayers, while riding.</p> + <p class="dgp">We all alighted at a very comfortable hotel, and were ushered + into as snug a little parlor as one's heart could desire.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image16.png" + alt="East Window of Melrose Abbey." /></p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">East Window of Melrose Abbey.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next thing was to hire a coachman to take us, in the + rain,—for the mist had now swelled into a rain,—through the whole + appropriate round. I stood by and heard names which I had never heard before, + except in song, brought into view in their commercial relations; so much for + Abbotsford; and so much for Dryburgh; and then, if we would like to throw in + Thomas the Rhymer's Tower, why, that would be something extra.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Thomas the Rhymer?" said one of the party, not exactly posted + up. "Was he any thing remarkable? Well, is it worth while to go to his tower? + It will cost something extra, and take more time."</p> + <p class="dgp">Weighed in such a sacrilegious balance, Thomas was found + wanting, of course: the idea of driving three or four miles farther to see an + old tower, supposed to have belonged to a man who is supposed to have existed + and to have been carried off by a supposititious Queen of the Fairies into + Elfland, was too absurd for reasonable people; in fact, I made believe myself + that I did not care much about it, particularly as the landlady remarked, that + if we did not get home by five o'clock "the chops might be spoiled."</p> + <p class="dgp">As we all were packed into a tight coach, the rain still + pouring, I began to wish mute Nature would not be quite so energetic in + distilling her tears. A few sprinkling showers, or a graceful wreath of mist, + might be all very well; but a steady, driving rain, that obliged us to shut up + the carriage windows, and coated them with mist so that we could not look out, + why, I say it is enough to put out the fire of sentiment in any heart. We might + as well have been rolled up in a bundle and carried through the country, for + all the seeing it was possible to do under such circumstances. It, therefore, + should be stated, that we did keep bravely up in our poetic zeal, which kindly + Mrs. W. also reënforced, by distributing certain very delicate sandwiches + to support the outer man.</p> + <p class="dgp">At length, the coach stopped at the entrance of Abbotsford + grounds, where there was a cottage, out of which, due notice being given, came + a trim, little old woman in a black gown, with pattens on; she put up her + umbrella, and we all put up ours; the rain poured harder than ever as we went + dripping up the gravel walk, looking much, I inly fancied, like a set of + discomforted fowls fleeing to covert. We entered the great court yard, + surrounded with a high wall, into which were built sundry fragments of curious + architecture that happened to please the poet's fancy.</p> + <p class="dgp">I had at the moment, spite of the rain, very vividly in my mind + Washington Irving's graceful account of his visit to Abbotsford while this + house was yet building, and the picture which he has given of Walter Scott + sitting before his door, humorously descanting on various fragments of + sculpture, which lay scattered about, and which he intended to immortalize by + incorporating into his new dwelling.</p> + <p class="dgp">Viewed as a mere speculation, or, for aught I know, as an + architectural effort, this building may, perhaps, be counted as a mistake and a + failure. I observe, that it is quite customary to speak of it, among some, as a + pity that he ever undertook it. But viewed as a development of his inner life, + as a working out in wood and stone of favorite fancies and cherished ideas, the + building has to me a deep interest. The gentle-hearted poet delighted himself + in it; this house was his stone and wood poem, as irregular, perhaps, and as + contrary to any established rule, as his Lay of the Last Minstrel, but still + wild and poetic. The building has this interest, that it was throughout his own + conception, thought, and choice; that he expressed himself in every stone that + was laid, and made it a kind of shrine, into which he wove all his treasures of + antiquity, and where he imitated, from the beautiful, old, mouldering ruins of + Scotland, the parts that had touched him most deeply.</p> + <p class="dgp">The walls of one room were of carved oak from the Dunfermline + Abbey; the ceiling of another imitated from Roslin Castle; here a fireplace was + wrought in the image of a favorite niche in Melrose; and there the ancient + pulpit of Erskine was wrought into a wall. To him, doubtless, every object in + the house was suggestive of poetic fancies; every carving and bit of tracery + had its history, and was as truly an expression of something in the poet's mind + as a verse of his poetry.</p> + <p class="dgp">A building wrought out in this way, and growing up like a bank + of coral, may very possibly violate all the proprieties of criticism; it may + possibly, too, violate one's ideas of mere housewifery utility; but by none of + these rules ought such a building to be judged. We should look at it rather as + the poet's endeavor to render outward and visible the dream land of his + thoughts, and to create for himself a refuge from the cold, dull realities of + life, in an architectural romance.</p> + <p class="dgp">These were thoughts which gave interest to the scene as we + passed through the porchway, adorned with petrified stags' horns, into the long + entrance hall of the mansion. This porch was copied from one in Linlithgow + palace. One side of this hall was lighted by windows of painted glass. The + floor was of black and white marble from the Hebrides. Round the whole cornice + there was a line of coats armorial, richly blazoned, and the following + inscription in old German text:</p> + <p class="dgp">"These be the coat armories of the clanns and chief men of name + wha keepit the marchys of Scotland in the old tyme for the kynge. Trewe men war + they in their tyme, and in their defence God them defendyt."</p> + <p class="dgp">There were the names of the Douglases, the Elliots, the Scotts, + the Armstrongs, and others. I looked at this arrangement with interest, because + I knew that Scott must have taken a particular delight in it.</p> + <p class="dgp">The fireplace, designed from a niche in Melrose Abbey, also in + this room, and a choice bit of sculpture it is. In it was an old grate, which + had its history also, and opposite to it the boards from the pulpit of Erskine + were wrought into a kind of side table, or something which served that purpose. + The spaces between the windows were decorated with pieces of armor, crossed + swords, and stags' horns, each one of which doubtless had its history. On each + side of the door, at the bottom of the hall, was a Gothic shrine, or niche, in + both of which stood a figure in complete armor.</p> + <p class="dgp">Then we went into the drawing room; a lofty saloon, the woodwork + of which is entirely of cedar, richly wrought; probably another of the author's + favorite poetic fancies. It is adorned with a set of splendid antique ebony + furniture; cabinet, chairs, and piano—the gift of George IV. to the + poet.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went into his library; a magnificent room, on which, I + suppose, the poet's fancy had expended itself more than any other. The roof is + of carved oak, after models from Roslin Castle. Here, in a niche, is a marble + bust of Scott, as we understood a present from Chantrey to the poet; it was one + of the best and most animated representations of him I ever saw, and very much + superior to the one under the monument in Edinburgh. On expressing my idea to + this effect, I found I had struck upon a favorite notion of the good woman who + showed us the establishment; she seemed to be an ancient servant of the house, + and appeared to entertain a regard for the old laird scarcely less than + idolatry. One reason why this statue is superior is, that it represents his + noble forehead, which the Edinburgh one suffers to be concealed by falling + hair: to cover <em>such</em> a forehead seems scarcely less than a libel.</p> + <p class="dgp">The whole air of this room is fanciful and picturesque in the + extreme. The walls are entirely filled with the bookcases, there being about + twenty thousand volumes. A small room opens from the library, which was Scott's + own private study. His writing table stood in the centre, with his inkstand on + it, and before it a large, plain, black leather arm chair.</p> + <p class="dgp">In a glass case, I think in this room, was exhibited the suit of + clothes he last wore; a blue coat with large metal buttons, plaid trousers, and + broad-brimmed hat. Around the sides of this room there was a gallery of light + tracery work; a flight of stairs led up to it, and in one corner of it was a + door which the woman said led to the poet's bed room. One seemed to see in all + this arrangement how snug, and cozy, and comfortable the poet had thus + ensconced himself, to give himself up to his beloved labors and his poetic + dreams. But there was a cold and desolate air of order and adjustment about it + which reminds one of the precise and chilling arrangements of a room from which + has just been carried out a corpse; all is silent and deserted.</p> + <p class="dgp">The house is at present the property of Scott's only surviving + daughter, whose husband has assumed the name of Scott. We could not learn from + our informant whether any of the family was in the house. We saw only the rooms + which are shown to visitors, and a coldness, like that of death, seemed to + strike to my heart from their chilly solitude.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we went out of the house we passed another company of + tourists coming in, to whom we heard our guide commencing the same recitation, + "this is," and "this is," &c., just as she had done to us. One thing about + the house and grounds had disappointed me; there was not one view from a single + window I saw that was worth any thing, in point of beauty; why a poet, with an + eye for the beautiful, could have located a house in such an indifferent spot, + on an estate where so many beautiful sites were at his command, I could not + imagine.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to the external appearance of Abbotsford, it is as irregular + as can well be imagined. There are gables, and pinnacles, and spires, and + balconies, and buttresses any where and every where, without rhyme or reason; + for wherever the poet wanted a balcony, he had it; or wherever he had a + fragment of carved stone, or a bit of historic tracery, to put in, he made a + shrine for it forthwith, without asking leave of any rules. This I take to be + one of the main advantages of Gothic architecture; it is a most catholic and + tolerant system, and any kind of eccentricity may find refuge beneath its + mantle.</p> + <p class="dgp">Here and there, all over the house, are stones carved with + armorial bearings and pious inscriptions, inserted at random wherever the poet + fancied. Half way up the wall in one place is the door of the old Tolbooth at + Edinburgh, with the inscription over it, "The Lord of armeis is my protector; + blissit ar thay that trust in the Lord. 1575."</p> + <p class="dgp">A doorway at the west end of the house is composed of stones + which formed the portal of the Tolbooth, given to Sir Walter on the pulling + down of the building in 1817.</p> + <p class="dgp">On the east side of the house is a rude carving of a sword with + the words, "Up with ye, sutors of Selkyrke. A.D. 1525." Another inscription, on + the same side of the house, runs thus:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"By night, by day, remember ay</p> + <p class="l">The goodness of ye Lord;</p> + <p class="l">And thank his name, whose glorious fame</p> + <p class="l">Is spread throughout ye world.—A.C.M.D. 1516."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">In the yard, to the right of the doorway of the mansion, we + saw the figure of Scott's favorite dog Maida, with a Latin + inscription—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Maidæ marmorea dormis sub imagine, Maida,</p> + <p class="l">Ad januam domini: sit tibi terra levis."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Which in our less expressive English we might + render—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">At thy lord's door, in slumbers light and blest,</p> + <p class="l">Maida, beneath this marble Maida, rest:</p> + <p class="l">Light lie the turf upon thy gentle breast.</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">One of the most endearing traits of Scott was that sympathy + and harmony which always existed between him and the brute creation.</p> + <p class="dgp">Poor Maida seemed cold and lonely, washed by the rain in the + damp grass plat. How sad, yet how expressive is the scriptural phrase for + indicating death! "He shall return to his house no more, neither shall his + place know him any more." And this is what all our homes are coming to; our + buying, our planting, our building, our marrying and giving in marriage, our + genial firesides and dancing children, are all like so many figures passing + through the magic lantern, to be put out at last in death.</p> + <p class="dgp">The grounds, I was told, are full of beautiful paths and seats, + favorite walks and lounges of the poet; but the obdurate pertinacity of the + rain compelled us to choose the very shortest path possible to the carriage. I + picked a leaf of the Portugal laurel, which I send you.</p> + <p class="dgp">Next we were driven to Dryburgh, or rather to the banks of the + Tweed, where a ferryman, with a small skiff waits to take passengers over.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Tweed is a clear, rippling river, with a white, pebbly + bottom, just like our New England mountain streams. After we landed we were to + walk to the Abbey. Our feet were damp and cold, and our boatman invited us to + his cottage. I found him and all his family warmly interested in the fortunes + of Uncle Tom and his friends, and for his sake they received me as a + long-expected friend. While I was sitting by the ingleside,—that is, a + coal grate,—warming my feet, I fell into conversation with my host. He + and his family, I noticed, spoke English more than Scotch; he was an + intelligent young man, in appearance and style of mind precisely what you might + expect to meet in a cottage in Maine. He and all the household, even the old + grandmother, had read Uncle Tom's Cabin, and were perfectly familiar with all + its details. He told me that it had been universally read in the cottages in + the vicinity. I judged from his mode of speaking, that he and his neighbors + were in the habit of reading a great deal. I spoke of going to Dryburgh to see + the grave of Scott, and inquired if his works were much read by the common + people. He said that Scott was not so much a favorite with the people as Burns. + I inquired if he took a newspaper. He said that the newspapers were kept at so + high a price that working men were not able to take them; sometimes they got + sight of them through clubs, or by borrowing. How different, thought I, from + America, where a workingman would as soon think of going without his bread as + without his newspaper!</p> + <p class="dgp">The cottages of these laboring people, of which there were a + whole village along here, are mostly of stone, thatched with straw. This thatch + sometimes gets almost entirely grown over with green moss. Thus moss-covered + was the roof of the cottage where we stopped, opposite to Dryburgh grounds.</p> + <p class="dgp">There was about this time one of those weeping pauses in the + showery sky, and a kind of thinning and edging away of the clouds, which gave + hope that perhaps the sun was going to look out, and give to our persevering + researches the countenance of his presence. This was particularly desirable, as + the old woman, who came out with her keys to guide us, said she had a cold and + a cough: we begged that she would not trouble herself to go with us at all. The + fact is, with all respect to nice old women, and the worthy race of guides in + general, they are not favorable to poetic meditation. We promised to be very + good if she would let us have the key, and lock up all the gates, and bring it + back; but no, she was faithfulness itself, and so went coughing along through + the dripping and drowned grass to open the gates for us.</p> + <p class="dgp">This Dryburgh belongs now to the Earl of Buchan, having been + bought by him from a family of the name of Haliburton, ancestral connections of + Scott, who, in his autobiography, seems to lament certain mischances of fortune + which prevented the estate from coming into his own family, and gave them, he + said, nothing but the right of stretching their bones there. It seems a pity, + too, because the possession of this rich, poetic ruin would have been a mine of + wealth to Scott, far transcending the stateliest of modern houses.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now, if you do not remember Scott's poem, of the Eve of St. + John, you ought to read it over; for it is, I think, the most spirited of all + his ballads; nothing conceals the transcendent lustre and beauty of these + compositions, but the splendor of his other literary productions. Had he never + written any thing but these, they would have made him a name as a poet. As it + was, I found the fanciful chime of the cadences in this ballad ringing through + my ears. I kept saying to myself—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The Dryburgh bells do ring,</p> + <p class="l">And the white monks do sing</p> + <p class="l">For Sir Richard of Coldinghame."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">And as I was wandering around in the labyrinth, of old, + broken, mossy arches, I thought—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"There is a nun in Dryburgh bower</p> + <p class="l">Ne'er looks upon the sun;</p> + <p class="l">There is a monk in Melrose tower,</p> + <p class="l">He speaketh word to none.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">That nun who ne'er beholds the day,</p> + <p class="l">That monk who speaks to none,</p> + <p class="l">That nun was Smaylhome's lady gay,</p> + <p class="l">That monk the bold Baron."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">It seems that there is a vault in this edifice which has + had some superstitious legends attached to it, from having been the residence, + about fifty years ago, of a mysterious lady, who, being under a vow never to + behold the light of the sun, only left her cell at midnight. This little story, + of course, gives just enough superstitious chill to this beautiful ruin to help + the effect of the pointed arches, the clinging wreaths of ivy, the shadowy + pines, and yew trees; in short, if one had not a guide waiting, who had a bad + cold, if one could stroll here at leisure by twilight or moonlight, one might + get up a considerable deal of the mystic and poetic.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is a part of the ruin that stands most picturesquely by + itself, as if old Time had intended it for a monument. It is the ruin of that + part of the chapel called St. Mary's Aisle; it stands surrounded by luxuriant + thickets of pine and other trees, a cluster of beautiful Gothic arches + supporting a second tier of smaller and more fanciful ones, one or two of which + have that light touch of the Moorish in their form which gives such a singular + and poetic effect in many of the old Gothic ruins. Out of these wild arches and + windows wave wreaths of ivy, and slender harebells shake their blue pendants, + looking in and out of the lattices like little capricious fairies. There are + fragments of ruins lying on the ground, and the whole air of the thing is as + wild, and dreamlike, and picturesque as the poet's fanciful heart could have + desired.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image17.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">Underneath these arches he lies beside his wife; around him the + representation of the two things he loved most—the wild bloom and beauty + of nature, and the architectural memorial of by-gone history and art. Yet there + was one thing I felt I would have had otherwise; it seemed to me that the flat + stones of the pavement are a weight too heavy and too cold to be laid on the + breast of a lover of nature and the beautiful. The green turf, springing with + flowers, that lies above a grave, does not seem, to us so hopeless a barrier + between us and what was warm and loving; the springing grass and daisies there + seem, types and assurances that the mortal beneath shall put on immortality; + they come up to us as kind messages from the peaceful dust, to say that it is + resting in a certain hope of a glorious resurrection.</p> + <p class="dgp">On the cold flagstones, walled in by iron railings, there were + no daisies and no moss; but I picked many of both from, the green turf around, + which, with some sprigs of ivy from the walls, I send you.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is strange that we turn away from the grave of this man, who + achieved to himself the most brilliant destiny that ever an author + did,—raising himself by his own unassisted efforts to be the chosen + companions of nobles and princes, obtaining all that heart could desire of + riches and honor,—we turn away and say, Poor Walter Scott! How desolately + touching is the account in Lockhart, of his dim and indistinct agony the day + his wife was brought here to be buried! and the last part of that biography is + the saddest history that I know; it really makes us breathe a long sigh of + relief when we read of the lowering of the coffin into this vault.</p> + <p class="dgp">What force does all this give to the passage in his diary in + which he records his estimate of life!—"What is this world? a dream + within a dream. As we grow older, each step is an awakening. The youth awakes, + as he thinks, from childhood; the full-grown man despises the pursuits of youth + as visionary; the old man looks on manhood as a feverish dream. The grave the + last sleep? No; it is the last and final awakening."</p> + <p class="dgp">It has often been remarked, that there is no particular moral + purpose aimed at by Scott in his writings; he often speaks of it himself in his + last days, in a tone of humility. He represents himself as having been employed + mostly in the comparatively secondary department of giving innocent amusement. + He often expressed, humbly and earnestly, the hope that he had, at least, done + no harm; but I am inclined to think, that although moral effect was not + primarily his object, yet the influence of his writings and whole existence on + earth has been decidedly good.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is a great thing to have a mind of such power and such + influence, whose recognitions of right and wrong, of virtue and vice, were, in + most cases, so clear and determined. He never enlists our sympathies in favor + of vice, by drawing those seductive pictures, in which it comes so near the + shape and form of virtue that the mind is puzzled as to the boundary line. He + never makes young ladies feel that they would like to marry corsairs, pirates, + or sentimental villains of any description. The most objectionable thing, + perhaps, about his influence, is its sympathy with the war spirit. A person + Christianly educated can hardly read some of his descriptions in the Lady of + the Lake and Marmion without an emotion of disgust, like what is excited by the + same things in Homer; and as the world comes more and more under the influence + of Christ, it will recede more and more from this kind of literature.</p> + <p class="dgp">Scott has been censured as being wilfully unjust to the + Covenanters and Puritans. I think he meant really to deal fairly by them, and + that what <em>he</em> called fairness might seem rank injustice to those + brought up to venerate them, as we have been. I suppose that in Old Mortality + it was Scott's honest intention to balance the two parties about fairly, by + putting on the Covenant side his good, steady, well-behaved hero, Mr. Morton, + who is just as much of a Puritan as the Puritans would have been had they taken + Sir Walter Scott's advice; that is to say, a very nice, sensible, moral man, + who takes the Puritan side because he thinks it the <em>right</em> side, but + contemplates all the devotional enthusiasm and religious ecstasies of his + associates from a merely artistic and pictorial point of view. The trouble was, + when he got his model Puritan done, nobody ever knew what he was meant for; and + then all the young ladies voted steady Henry Morton a bore, and went to falling + in love with his Cavalier rival, Lord Evandale, and people talked as if it was + a preconcerted arrangement of Scott, to surprise the female heart, and carry it + over to the royalist side.</p> + <p class="dgp">The fact was, in describing Evandale he made a living, effective + character, because he was describing something he had full sympathy with, and + put his whole life into; but Henry Morton is a laborious arrangement of starch + and pasteboard to produce one of those supposititious, just-right men, who are + always the stupidest of mortals after they are made. As to why Scott did not + describe such a character as the martyr Duke of Argyle, or Hampden, or Sir + Harry Vane, where high birth, and noble breeding, and chivalrous sentiment were + all united with intense devotional fervor, the answer is, that he could not do + it; he had not that in him wherewith to do it; a man cannot create that of + which he has not first had the elements in himself; and devotional enthusiasm + is a thing which Scott never felt. Nevertheless, I believe that he was + perfectly sincere in saying that he would, "if necessary, die a martyr for + Christianity." He had calm, firm principle to any extent, but it never was + kindled into fervor. He was of too calm and happy a temperament to sound the + deepest recesses of souls torn up from their depths by mighty conflicts and + sorrows. There are souls like the "alabaster vase of ointment, very precious," + which shed no perfume of devotion because a great sorrow has never broken them. + Could Scott have been given back to the world again after the heavy discipline + of life had passed over him, he would have spoken otherwise of many things. + What he vainly struggled to say to Lockhart on his death bed would have been a + new revelation, of his soul to the world, could he have lived to unfold it in + literature. But so it is: when we have learned to live, life's purpose is + answered, and we die!</p> + <p class="dgp">This is the sum and substance of some conversations held while + rambling among these scenes, going in and out of arches, climbing into nooks + and through loopholes, picking moss and ivy, and occasionally retreating under + the shadow of some arch, while the skies were indulging in a sudden burst of + emotion. The poor woman who acted as our guide, ensconcing herself in a dry + corner, stood like a literal Patience on a monument, waiting for us to be + through; we were sorry for her, but as it was our first and last chance, and + she would stay there, we could not help it.</p> + <p class="dgp">Near by the abbey is a square, modern mansion, belonging to the + Earl of Buchan, at present untenanted. There were some black, solemn yew trees + there, old enough to have told us a deal of history had they been inclined to + speak; as it was, they could only drizzle.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we were walking through the yard, a bird broke out into a + clear, sweet song.</p> + <p class="dgp">"What bird is that?" said I.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I think it is the mavis," said the guide. This brought + up,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The mavis wild, wie mony a note,</p> + <p class="l">Sings drowsy day to rest."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">And also,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Merry it is in wild green wood,</p> + <p class="l">When mavis and merle are singing."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">A verse, by the by, dismally suggestive of contrast to this + rainy day.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we came along out of the gate, walking back towards the + village of Dryburgh, we began, to hope that the skies had fairly wept + themselves out; at any rate the rain stopped, and the clouds wore a sulky, + leaden-gray aspect, as if they were thinking what to do next.</p> + <p class="dgp">We saw a knot of respectable-looking laboring men at a little + distance, conversing in a group, and now and then stealing glances at us; one + of them at last approached and inquired if this was Mrs. Stowe, and being + answered in the affirmative, they all said heartily, "Madam, ye're right + welcome to Scotland." The chief speaker, then, after a little conversation, + asked our party if we would do him the favor to step into his cottage near by, + to take a little refreshment after our ramble; to which we assented with + alacrity. He led the way to a neat, stone cottage, with a flower garden before + the door, and said to a thrifty, rosy-cheeked woman, who met us, "Well, and + what do you think, wife, if I have brought Mrs. Stowe and her party to take a + cup of tea with us?"</p> + <p class="dgp">We were soon seated in a neat, clean kitchen, and our hostess + hastened to put the teakettle over the grate, lamenting that she had not known + of our coming, that she might have had a fire "ben the house," meaning by the + phrase what we Yankees mean by "in the best room." We caught a glimpse of the + carpet and paper of this room, when the door was opened to bring out a few more + chairs.</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Belyve the bairns cam dropping in,"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">rosy-cheeked, fresh from school, with satchel and school + books, to whom I was introduced as the mother of Topsy and Eva.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Ah," said the father, "such a time as we had, when we were + reading the book; whiles they were greetin' and whiles in a rage."</p> + <p class="dgp">My host was quite a young-looking man, with the clear blue eye + and glowing complexion which one so often meets here; and his wife, with her + blooming cheeks, neat dress, and well-kept house, was evidently one of those + fully competent</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"To gar old claes look amaist as weel as new."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I inquired the ages of the several children, to which the + father answered with about as much chronological accuracy as men generally + display in such points of family history. The gude wife, after correcting his + figures once or twice, turned away with a somewhat indignant exclamation about + men that didn't know their own bairns' ages, in which many of us, I presume, + could sympathize.</p> + <p class="dgp">I must not omit to say, that a neighbor of our host had been + pressed to come in with us; an intelligent-looking man, about fifty. In the + course of conversation, I found that they were both masons by trade, and as the + rain had prevented their working, they had met to spend their time in reading. + They said they were reading a work on America; and thereat followed a good deal + of general conversation on our country. I found that, like many others in this + old country, they had a tie to connect them with the new—a son in + America.</p> + <p class="dgp">One of our company, in the course of the conversation, says, + "They say in America that the working classes of England and Scotland are not + so well off as the slaves." The man's eye flashed. "There are many things," he + said, "about the working classes, which are not what they should be; there's + room for a great deal of improvement in our condition, but," he added with an + emphasis, "we are <em>no slaves!</em>" There was a, touch, of the</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Scots wha ha' wi' Wallace bled"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">about the man, as he spoke, which made the affirmation + quite unnecessary.</p> + <p class="dgp">"But," said I, "you think the affairs of the working classes + much improved of late years?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"O, certainly," said the other; "since the repeal of the corn + laws and the passage of the factory bill, and this emigration to America and + Australia, affairs have been very much altered."</p> + <p class="dgp">We asked them what they could make a day by their trade. It was + much less, certainly, than is paid for the same labor in our country; but yet + the air of comfort and respectability about the cottage, the well-clothed and + well-schooled, intelligent children, spoke well for the result of their + labors.</p> + <p class="dgp">While our conversation was carried on, the teakettle commenced + singing most melodiously, and by a mutual system of accommodation, a neat tea + table was spread in the midst of us, and we soon found ourselves seated, + enjoying some delicious bread and butter, with the garniture of cheese, + preserves, and tea. Our host before the meal craved a blessing of Him who had + made of one blood all the families of the earth; a beautiful and touching + allusion, I thought, between Americans and Scotchmen. Our long ramble in the + rain had given us something of an appetite, and we did ample justice to the + excellence of the cheer.</p> + <p class="dgp">After tea we walked on down again towards the Tweed, our host + and his friends waiting on us to the boat. As we passed through the village of + Dryburgh, all the inhabitants of the cottages seemed to be standing in their + doors, bowing and smiling, and expressing their welcome in a gentle, kindly + way, that was quite touching.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we were walking towards the Tweed, the Eildon Hill, with its + three points, rose before us in the horizon. I thought of the words in the Lay + of the Last Minstrel:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Warrior, I could say to thee,</p> + <p class="l">The words that cleft Eildon Hill in three,</p> + <p class="l">And bridled the Tweed with a curb of stone."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I appealed to my friends if they knew any thing about the + tradition; I thought they seemed rather reluctant to speak of it. O, there was + some foolish story, they believed; they did not well know what it was.</p> + <p class="dgp">The picturesque age of human childhood is gone by; men and women + cannot always be so accommodating as to believe unreasonable stories for the + convenience of poets.</p> + <p class="dgp">At the Tweed the man with the skiff was waiting for us. In + parting with my friend, I said, "Farewell. I hope we may meet again some + time."</p> + <p class="dgp">"I am sure we shall, madam," said he; "if not here, certainly + hereafter."</p> + <p class="dgp">After being rowed across I stopped a few moments to admire the + rippling of the clear water over the pebbles. "I want some of these pebbles of + the Tweed," I said, "to carry home to America." Two hearty, rosy-cheeked Scotch + lasses on the shore soon supplied me with as many as I could carry.</p> + <p class="dgp">We got into our carriage, and drove up to Melrose. After a + little negotiation with the keeper, the doors were unlocked. Just at that + moment the sun was so gracious as to give a full look through the windows, and + touch with streaks of gold the green, grassy floor; for the beautiful ruin is + floored with green grass and roofed with sky: even poetry has not exaggerated + its beauty, and could not. There is never any end to the charms of Gothic + architecture. It is like the beauty of Cleopatra,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Age cannot wither, custom, cannot stale</p> + <p class="l">Her infinite variety."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Here is this Melrose, now, which has been berhymed, + bedraggled through infinite guide books, and been gaped at and smoked at by + dandies, and been called a "dear love" by pretty young ladies, and been hawked + about as a trade article in all neighboring shops, and you know perfectly well + that all your raptures are spoken for and expected at the door, and your going + off in an ecstasy is a regular part of the programme; and yet, after all, the + sad, wild, sweet beauty of the thing comes down on one like a cloud; even for + the sake of being original you could not, in conscience, declare you did not + admire it.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went into a minute examination with our guide, a young man, + who seemed to have a full sense of its peculiar beauties. I must say here, that + Walter Scott's description in the Lay of the Last Minstrel is as perfect in + most details as if it had been written by an architect as well as a + poet—it is a kind of glorified daguerreotype.</p> + <p class="dgp">This building was the first of the elaborate and fanciful Gothic + which I had seen, and is said to excel in the delicacy of its carving any + except Roslin Castle. As a specimen of the exactness of Scott's description, + take this verse, where he speaks of the cloisters:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Spreading herbs and flowerets bright,</p> + <p class="l">Glistened with the dew of night,</p> + <p class="l">Nor herb nor floweret glistened there,</p> + <p class="l">But were carved in the cloister arches as fair."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">These cloisters were covered porticoes surrounding the + garden, where the monks walked for exercise. They are now mostly destroyed, but + our guide showed us the remains of exquisite carvings there, in which each + group was an imitation of some leaf or flower, such as the curly kail of + Scotland; a leaf, by the by, as worthy of imitation as the Greek acanthus, the + trefoil oak, and some other leaves, the names of which I do not remember. These + Gothic artificers were lovers of nature; they studied at the fountain head; + hence the never-dying freshness, variety, and originality of their + conceptions.</p> + <p class="dgp">Another passage, whose architectural accuracy you feel at once, + is this:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"They entered now the chancel tall;</p> + <p class="l">The darkened, roof rose high, aloof</p> + <p class="l">On pillars lofty, light, and small:</p> + <p class="l">The keystone that locked, each ribbed aisle</p> + <p class="l">Was a fleur-de-lis, or a quatre-feuille;</p> + <p class="l">The corbels were carved grotesque and grim;</p> + <p class="l">And the pillars, with, clustered shafts so trim,</p> + <p class="l">With, base and with capital flourished around,</p> + <p class="l">Seemed bundles of lances which garlands had bound."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The quatre-feuille here spoken of is an ornament formed by + the junction of four leaves. The frequent recurrence of the fleur-de-lis in the + carvings here shows traces of French hands employed in the architecture. In one + place in the abbey there is a rude inscription, in which a French architect + commemorates the part he has borne in constructing the building.</p> + <p class="dgp">These corbels are the projections from which, the arches spring, + usually carved in some fantastic mask or face; and on these the Shakspearian + imagination of the Gothic artists seems to have let itself loose to run riot: + there is every variety of expression, from, the most beautiful to the most + goblin and grotesque. One has the leer of fiendish triumph, with budding horns, + showing too plainly his paternity; again you have the drooping eyelids and + saintly features of some fair virgin; and then the gasping face of some old + monk, apparently in the agonies of death, with his toothless gums, hollow + cheeks, and sunken eyes. Other faces have an earthly and sensual leer; some are + wrought into expressions of scorn and mockery, some of supplicating agony, and + some of grim, despair.</p> + <p class="dgp">One wonders what gloomy, sarcastic, poetic, passionate mind has + thus amused itself, recording in stone all the range of passions—saintly, + earthly, and diabolic—on the varying human face. One fancies each corbel + to have had its history, its archetype in nature; a thousand possible stories + spring into one's mind. They are wrought with such a startling and individual + definiteness, that one feels as about Shakspeare's characters, as if they must + have had a counterpart in real existence. The pure, saintly nun may have been + some sister, or some daughter, or some early love, of the artist, who in an + evil hour saw the convent barriers rise between her and all that was loving. + The fat, sensual face may have been a sly sarcasm on some worthy abbot, more + eminent in flesh than spirit. The fiendish faces may have been wrought out of + the author's own perturbed dreams.</p> + <p class="dgp">An architectural work says that one of these corbels, with an + anxious and sinister Oriental countenance, has been made, by the guides, to + perform duty as an authentic likeness of the wizard Michael Scott. Now, I must + earnestly protest against stating things in that way. Why does a writer want to + break up so laudable a poetic design in the guides? He would have been much + better occupied in interpreting some of the half-defaced old inscriptions into + a corroborative account. No doubt it <em>was</em> Michael Scott, and looked + just like him.</p> + <p class="dgp">It were a fine field for a story writer to analyze the + conception and growth of an abbey or cathedral as it formed itself, day after + day, and year after year, in the soul of some dreamy, impassioned workman, who + made it the note book where he wrought out imperishably in stone all his + observations on nature and man. I think it is this strong individualism of the + architect in the buildings that give the never-dying charm, and variety to the + Gothic: each Gothic building is a record of the growth, character, and + individualities of its builder's soul; and hence no two can be alike.</p> + <p class="dgp">I was really disappointed to miss in the abbey the stained glass + which gives such a lustre and glow to the poetic description. I might have + known better; but somehow I came there fully expecting to see the window, + where—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Full in the midst his cross of red</p> + <p class="l">Triumphant Michael brandished;</p> + <p class="l">The moonbeam kissed the holy pane,</p> + <p class="l">And threw on the pavement the bloody stain."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Alas! the painted glass was all of the poet's own setting; + years ago it was shattered by the hands of violence, and the grace of the + fashion of it hath perished.</p> + <p class="dgp">The guide pointed to a broken fragment which commanded a view of + the whole interior. "Sir Walter used to sit here," he said. I fancied I could + see him sitting on the fragment, gazing around the ruin, and mentally restoring + it to its original splendor; he brings back the colored light into the windows, + and throws its many-hued reflections over the graves; he ranges the banners + along around the walls, and rebuilds every shattered arch and aisle, till we + have the picture as it rises on us in his book.</p> + <p class="dgp">I confess to a strong feeling of reality, when my guide took me + to a grave where a flat, green, mossy stone, broken across the middle, is + reputed to be the grave of Michael Scott. I felt, for the moment, verily + persuaded that if the guide would pry up one of the stones we should see him + there, as described:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"His hoary beard in silver rolled,</p> + <p class="l">He seemed some seventy winters old;</p> + <p class="l">A palmer's amice wrapped, him round,</p> + <p class="l">With a wrought Spanish baldric bound,</p> + <p class="l">Like a pilgrim from beyond the sea:</p> + <p class="l">His left hand held his book of might;</p> + <p class="l">A silver cross was in his right;</p> + <p class="l">The lamp was placed beside his knee:</p> + <p class="l">High and majestic was his look,</p> + <p class="l">At which, the fellest fiends had shook,</p> + <p class="l">And all unruffled, was his face:</p> + <p class="l">They trusted his soul had gotten grace."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I never knew before how fervent a believer I had been in + the realities of these things.</p> + <p class="dgp">There are two graves that I saw, which correspond to those + mentioned in these lines:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"And there the dying lamps did burn</p> + <p class="l">Before thy lone and lowly urn,</p> + <p class="l">O gallafit chief of Otterburne,</p> + <p class="l">And thine, dark knight of Liddesdale."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The Knight of Otterburne was one of the Earls Douglas, + killed in a battle with Henry Percy, called Hotspur, in 1388. The Knight of + Liddesdale was another Douglas, who lived in the reign of David II., and was + called the "Flower of Chivalry." One performance of this "Flower" is rather + characteristic of the times. It seems the king made one Ramsey high sheriff of + Teviotdale. The Earl of Douglas chose to consider this as a personal affront, + as he wanted the office himself. So, by way of exhibiting his own + qualifications for administering justice, he one day came down on Ramsey, + <em>vi et armis</em>, took him off his judgment seat, carried him to one of his + castles, and without more words tumbled him and his horse into a deep dungeon, + where they both starved to death. There's a "Flower" for you, peculiar to the + good old times. Nobody could have doubted after this his qualifications to be + high sheriff.</p> + <p class="dgp">Having looked all over the abbey from, below, I noticed a + ruinous winding staircase; so up I went, rustling along through the ivy, which + matted and wove itself around the stones. Soon I found myself looking down on + the abbey from a new point of view—from a little narrow stone gallery, + which threads the whole inside of the building. There I paced up and down, + looking occasionally through the ivy-wreathed arches on the green, turfy floor + below.</p> + <p class="dgp">It seems as if silence and stillness had become a real presence + in these old places. The voice of the guide and the company beneath had a + hushed and muffled sound; and when I rustled the ivy leaves, or, in trying to + break off a branch, loosened some fragment of stone, the sound affected me with + a startling distinctness. I could not but inly muse and wonder on the life + these old monks and abbots led, shrined up here as they were in this lovely + retirement.</p> + <p class="dgp">In ruder ages these places were the only retreat for men of a + spirit too gentle to take force and bloodshed for their life's work; men who + believed that pen and parchment were better than sword and steel. Here I + suppose multitudes of them lived harmless, dreamy lives—reading old + manuscripts, copying and illuminating new ones.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is said that this Melrose is of very ancient origin, + extending back to the time of the Culdees, the earliest missionaries who + established religion in Scotland, and who had a settlement in this vicinity. + However, a royal saint, after a while, took it in hand to patronize, and of + course the credit went to him, and from, him Scott calls it "St. David's lonely + pile." In time a body of Cistercian monks were settled there.</p> + <p class="dgp">According to all accounts the abbey has raised some famous + saints. We read of trances, illuminations, and miraculous beatifications; and + of one abbot in particular, who exhibited the odor of sanctity so strongly that + it is said the mere opening of his grave, at intervals, was sufficient to + perfume the whole establishment with odors of paradise. Such stories apart, + however, we must consider that for all the literature, art, and love of the + beautiful, all the humanizing influences which hold society together, the world + was for many ages indebted to these monastic institutions.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the reformation, this abbey was destroyed amid the general + storm, which attacked the ecclesiastical architecture of Scotland. "Pull down + the nest, and the rooks will fly away," was the common saying of the mob; and + in those days a man was famous according as he had lifted up axes upon the + carved work.</p> + <p class="dgp">Melrose was considered for many years merely a stone quarry, + from which materials were taken for all sorts of buildings, such as + constructing tolbooths, repairing mills and sluices; and it has been only till + a comparatively recent period that its priceless value as an architectural + remain has led to proper efforts for its preservation. It is now most carefully + kept.</p> + <p class="dgp">After wandering through the inside we walked out into the old + graveyard, to look at the outside. The yard is full of old, curious, mouldering + gravestones; and on one of them there is an inscription sad and peculiar enough + to have come from the heart of the architect who planned the abbey; it runs as + follows:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The earth walks on the earth, glittering with gold;</p> + <p class="l">The earth goes to the earth sooner than it wold;</p> + <p class="l">The earth, builds on the earth, castles and towers;</p> + <p class="l">The earth, says to the earth, All shall be ours."</p> + </div> + <p class="dgp">Here, also, we were interested in a plain marble slab, which + marks the last resting-place of Scott's faithful Tom Purdie, his zealous + factotum. In his diary, when he hears of the wreck of his fortunes, Scott says + of this serving man, "Poor Tom Purdie, such news will wring your heart, and + many a poor fellow's beside, to whom my prosperity was daily bread."</p> + <p class="dgp">One fancies again the picture described by Lockhart, the strong, + lank frame, hard features, sunken eyes, and grizzled eyebrows, the green + jacket, white hat, and gray trousers—the outer appointments of the + faithful serving man. One sees Scott walking familiarly by his side, staying + himself on Tom's shoulder, while Tom talks with glee of "<em>our</em> trees," + and "<em>our</em> bukes." One sees the little skirmishing, when master wants + trees planted one way and man sees best to plant them another; and the + magnanimity with which kindly, cross-grained Tom at last agrees, on reflection, + to "take his honor's advice" about the management of his honor's own property. + Here, between master and man, both freemen, is all that beauty of relation + sometimes erroneously considered as the peculiar charm of slavery. Would it + have made the relation any more picturesque and endearing had Tom been stripped + of legal rights, and made liable to sale with the books and furniture of + Abbotsford? Poor Tom is sleeping here very quietly, with a smooth coverlet of + green grass. Over him is the following inscription: "Here lies the body of + Thomas Purdie, wood forester at Abbotsford, who died 29th October, 1829, aged + sixty-two years. Thou hast been faithful over a few things; I will make thee + ruler over many things." Matt. xxv. 21.</p> + <p class="dgp">We walked up, and down, and about, getting the best views of the + building. It is scarcely possible for description to give you the picture. The + artist, in whose mind the conception of this building arose, was a Mozart in + architecture; a plaintive and ethereal lightness, a fanciful quaintness, + pervaded his composition. The building is not a large one, and it has not that + air of solemn massive grandeur, that plain majesty, which impresses you in the + cathedrals of Aberdeen and Glasgow. As you stand looking at the wilderness of + minarets and flying buttresses, the multiplied shrines, and mouldings, and + cornices, all incrusted with carving as endless in its variety as the frostwork + on a window pane; each shrine, each pinnace, each moulding, a study by itself, + yet each contributing, like the different strains of a harmony, to the general + effect of the whole; it seems to you that for a thing so airy and spiritual to + have sprung up by enchantment, and to have been the product of spells and fairy + fingers, is no improbable account of the matter.</p> + <p class="dgp">Speaking of gargoyles—you are no architect, neither am I, + but you may as well get used to this descriptive term; it means the + water-spouts which conduct the water from the gutters at the eaves of these + buildings, and which are carved in every grotesque and fanciful device that can + be imagined. They are mostly goblin and fiendish faces, and look as if they + were darting out of the church in a towering passion, or a fit of diabolic + disgust and malice. Besides these gargoyles, there are in many other points of + the external building representations of fiendish faces and figures, as if in + the act of flying from the building, under the influence of a terrible spell: + by this, as my guide said, was expressed the idea that the holy hymns and + worship of the church put Satan and all his forces to rout, and made all that + was evil flee.</p> + <p class="dgp">One remark on this building, in Billings's architectural account + of it, interested me; and that is, that it is finished with the most + circumstantial elegance and minuteness in those concealed portions which are + excluded, from public view, and which can only be inspected by laborious + climbing or groping; and he accounts for this by the idea that the whole + carving and execution was considered as an act of solemn worship and adoration, + in which the artist offered up his best faculties to the praise of the + Creator.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image18.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">After lingering a while here, we went home to our inn or hotel. + Now, these hotels in the small towns of England, if this is any specimen, are + delightful affairs for travellers, they are so comfortable and home-like. Our + snug little parlor was radiant with the light of the coal grate; our table + stood before it, with its bright silver, white cloth, and delicate china cups; + and then such a dish of mutton chops! My dear, we are all mortal, and emotions + of the beautiful and sublime tend especially to make one hungry. We, therefore, + comforted ourselves over the instability of earthly affairs, and the transitory + nature of all human grandeur, by consolatory remarks on the <em>present</em> + whiteness of the bread, the sweetness of the butter; and as to the chops, all + declared, with one voice, that such mutton was a thing unknown in America. I + moved an emendation, except on the sea coast of Maine. We resolved to cherish + the memory of our little hostess in our heart of hearts, and as we gathered + round the cheery grate, drying our cold feet, we voted that poetry was a + humbug, and damp, old, musty cathedrals a bore. Such are the inconsistencies of + human nature!</p> + <p class="dgp">"Nevertheless," said I to S——, after dinner, "I am + going back again to-night, to see that abbey by moonlight. I intend to walk the + whole figure while I am about it."</p> + <p class="dgp">Just on the verge of twilight I stepped out, to see what the + town afforded in the way of relics. To say the truth, my eye had been caught by + some cunning little tubs and pails in a window, which I thought might be valued + in the home department. I went into a shop, where an auld wife soon appeared, + who, in reply to my inquiries, told me, that the said little tubs and pails + were made of plum tree wood from Dryburgh Abbey, and, of course, partook of the + sanctity of relics. She and her husband seemed to be driving a thriving trade + in the article, and either plum trees must be very abundant at Dryburgh, or + what there are must be gifted with that power of self-multiplication which + inheres in the wood of the true Cross. I bought them in blind faith, however, + suppressing all rationalistic doubts, as a good relic hunter should.</p> + <p class="dgp">I went up into a little room where an elderly woman professed to + have quite a collection of the Melrose relics. Some years ago extensive + restorations and repairs were made in the old abbey, in which Walter Scott took + a deep interest. At that time, when the scaffolding was up for repairing the + building, as I understood, Scott had the plaster casts made of different parts, + which he afterwards incorporated into his own dwelling at Abbotsford. I said to + the good woman that I had understood by Washington Irving's account, that Scott + appropriated <em>bona fide</em> fragments of the building, and alluded to the + account which he gives of the little red sandstone lion from Melrose. She + repelled the idea with great energy, and said she had often heard Sir Walter + say, that he would not carry off a bit of the building as big as his thumb. She + showed me several plaster casts that she had in her possession, which were + taken at this time. There were several corbels there; one was the head of an + old monk, and looked as if it might have been a mask taken of his face the + moment after death; the eyes were hollow and sunken, the cheeks fallen in, the + mouth lying helplessly open, showing one or two melancholy old stumps of teeth. + I wondered over this, whether it really was the fac-simile of some poor old + Father Ambrose, or Father Francis, whose disconsolate look, after his death + agony, had so struck the gloomy fancy of the artist as to lead him to + immortalize him in a corbel, for a lasting admonition to his fat worldly + brethren; for if we may trust the old song, these monks of Melrose had rather a + suspicious reputation in the matter of worldly conformity. The impudent ballad + says,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"O, the monks of Melrose, they made good, kail</p> + <p class="l">On Fridays, when they fasted;</p> + <p class="l">They never wanted beef or ale</p> + <p class="l">As long as their neighbors' lasted."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Naughty, roistering fellows! I thought I could perceive how + this poor Father Francis had worn his life out exhorting them to repentance, + and given up the ghost at last in despair, and so been made at once into a + saint and a corbel.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were fragments of tracery, of mouldings and cornices, and + grotesque bits of architecture there, which I would have given a good deal to + be the possessor of. Stepping into a little cottage hard by to speak to the + guide about unlocking the gates, when we went out on our moonlight excursion at + midnight, I caught a glimpse, in an inner apartment, of a splendid, large, + black dog. I gave one exclamation and jump, and was into the room after + him.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Ah," said the old man, "that was just like Sir Walter; he + always had an eye for a dog."</p> + <p class="dgp">It gave me a kind of pain to think of him and his dogs, all + lying in the dust together; and yet it was pleasant to hear this little remark + of him, as if it were made by those who had often seen, and were fond of + thinking of him. The dog's name was Coal, and he was black enough, and + remarkable enough, to make a figure in a story—a genuine Melrose Abbey + dog. I should not wonder if he were a descendant, in a remote degree, of the + "mauthe doog," that supernatural beast, which Scott commemorates in his notes. + The least touch in the world of such blood in his veins would be, of course, an + appropriate circumstance in a dog belonging to an old ruined abbey.</p> + <p class="dgp">Well, I got home, and narrated my adventures to my friends, and + showed them my reliquary purchases, and declared my strengthening intention to + make my ghostly visit by moonlight, if there was any moon to be had that night, + which was a doubtful possibility.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the course of the evening came in Mr. ——, who had + volunteered his services as guide and attendant during the interesting + operation.</p> + <p class="dgp">"When does the moon rise?" said one.</p> + <p class="dgp">"O, a little after eleven o'clock, I believe," said Mr. + ——.</p> + <p class="dgp">Some of the party gaped portentously.</p> + <p class="dgp">"You know," said I, "Scott says we must see it by moonlight; it + is one of the proprieties of the place, as I understand."</p> + <p class="dgp">"How exquisite that description is, of the effect of moonlight!" + says another.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I think it probable," says Mr. ——, dryly, "that + Scott never saw it by moonlight himself. He was a man of very regular habits, + and seldom went out evenings."</p> + <p class="dgp">The blank amazement with which this communication was received + set S—— into an inextinguishable fit of laughter.</p> + <p class="dgp">"But do you really believe he never saw it?" said I, rather + crestfallen.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Well," said the gentleman, "I have heard him charged with never + having seen it, and he never denied it."</p> + <p class="dgp">Knowing that Scott really was as practical a man as Dr. + Franklin, and as little disposed to poetic extravagances, and an exceedingly + sensible, family kind of person, I thought very probably this might be true, + unless he had seen it some time in his early youth. Most likely good Mrs. Scott + never would have let him commit the impropriety that we were about to, and run + the risk of catching the rheumatism by going out to see how an old abbey looked + at twelve o'clock at night.</p> + <p class="dgp">We waited for the moon to rise, and of course it did not rise; + nothing ever does when it is waited for. We went to one window, and went to + another; half past eleven came, and no moon. "Let us give it up," said I, + feeling rather foolish. However, we agreed to wait another quarter of an hour, + and finally Mr. —— announced that the moon <em>was</em> risen; the + only reason we did not see it was, because it was behind the Eildon Hills. So + we voted to consider her risen at any rate, and started out in the dark, + threading the narrow streets of the village with the comforting reflection that + we were doing what Sir Walter would think rather a silly thing. When we got out + before the abbey there was enough light behind the Eildon Hills to throw their + three shadowy cones out distinctly to view, and to touch with a gloaming, + uncertain ray the ivy-clad walls. As we stood before the abbey, the guide + fumbling with his keys, and finally heard the old lock clash as the door slowly + opened to admit us, I felt a little shiver of the ghostly come over me, just + enough to make it agreeable.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the daytime we had criticized Walter Scott's moonlight + description in the lines which say,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The distant Tweed is heard, to rave,</p> + <p class="l">And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">"We hear nothing of the Tweed, at any rate," said we; "that + must be a poetic license." But now at midnight, as we walked silently through + the mouldering aisles, the brawl of the Tweed was so distinctly heard that it + seemed as if it was close by the old, lonely pile; nor can any term describe + the sound more exactly than the word "rave," which the poet has chosen. It was + the precise accuracy of this little item of description which made me feel as + if Scott must have been here in the night. I walked up into the old chancel, + and sat down where William of Deloraine and the monk sat, on the Scottish + monarch's tomb, and thought over the words</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Strange sounds along the chancel passed,</p> + <p class="l">And banners wave without a blast;</p> + <p class="l">Still spake the monk when the bell tolled one."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">And while we were there the bell tolled twelve.</p> + <p class="dgp">And then we went to Michael Scott's grave, and we looked through + the east oriel, with its</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Slender shafts of shapely stone,</p> + <p class="l">By foliage tracery combined."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The fanciful outlines showed all the more distinctly for + the entire darkness within, and the gloaming moonlight without. The tall arches + seemed higher in their dimness, and vaster than they did in the daytime. + "Hark!" said I; "what's that?" as we heard a rustling and flutter of wings in + the ivy branches over our heads. Only a couple of rooks, whose antiquarian + slumbers were disturbed by the unwonted noise there at midnight, and who rose + and flew away, rattling down some fragments of the ruin as they went. It was + somewhat odd, but I could not help fancying, what if these strange, goblin + rooks were the spirits of old monks coming back to nestle and brood among their + ancient cloisters! Rooks are a ghostly sort of bird. I think they were made on + purpose to live in old yew trees and ivy, as much as yew trees and ivy were to + grow round old churches and abbeys. If we once could get inside of a rook's + skull, to find out what he is thinking of, I'll warrant that we should know a + great deal more about these old buildings than we do now. I should not wonder + if there were long traditionary histories handed down from one generation of + rooks to another, and that these are what they are talking about when we think + they are only chattering. I imagine I see the whole black fraternity the next + day, sitting, one on a gargoyle, one on a buttress, another on a shrine, + gossiping over the event of our nightly visit.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image19.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">We walked up and down the long aisles, and groped out into the + cloisters; and then I thought, to get the full ghostliness of the thing, we + would go up the old, ruined staircase into the long galleries, that</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Midway thread the abbey wall."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">We got about half way up, when there came into our faces + one of those sudden, passionate puffs of mist and rain which Scotch clouds seem + to have the faculty of getting up at a minute's notice. Whish! came the wind in + our faces, like the rustling of a whole army of spirits down the staircase; + whereat we all tumbled back promiscuously on to each other, and concluded we + would not go up. In fact we had done the thing, and so we went home; and I + dreamed of arches, and corbels, and gargoyles all night. And so, farewell to + Melrose Abbey.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_26" name="toc_26"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter IX</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Edinburgh</span>, April.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + Sister</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. S. and C—— returned from their trip to Glasgow + much delighted with the prospects indicated by the results of the temperance + meetings they attended there.</p> + <p class="dgp">They were present at the meeting of the Scottish Temperance + League, in an audience of about four thousand people. The reports were + encouraging, and the feeling enthusiastic. One hundred and eighty ministers are + on the list of the League, forming a nucleus of able, talented, and determined + operators. It is the intention to make a movement for a law which shall secure + to Scotland some of the benefits of the Maine law.</p> + <p class="dgp">It appears to me that on the questions of temperance and + antislavery, the religious communities of the two countries are in a situation + mutually to benefit each other. Our church and ministry have been through a + long struggle and warfare on this temperance question, in which a very valuable + experience has been, elaborated. The religious people of Great Britain, on the + contrary, have led on to a successful result a great antislavery experiment, + wherein their experience and success can be equally beneficial and encouraging + to us.</p> + <p class="dgp">The day after we returned from Melrose we spent in resting and + riding about, as we had two engagements in the evening—one at a party at + the house of Mr. Douglas, of Cavers, and the other at a public temperance + <em>soirée</em>. Mr. Douglas is the author of several works which have + excited attention; but perhaps you will remember him best by his treatise on + the Advancement of Society in Religion and Knowledge. He is what is called here + a "laird," a man of good family, a large landed proprietor, a zealous reformer, + and a very devout man.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went early to spend a short time with the family. I was a + little surprised, as I entered the hall, to find myself in the midst of a large + circle of well-dressed men and women, who stood apparently waiting to receive + us, and who bowed, courtesied, and smiled as we came in. Mrs. D. apologized to + me afterwards, saying that these were the servants of the family, that they + were exceedingly anxious to see me, and so she had allowed them all to come + into the hall. They were so respectable in their appearance, and so neatly + dressed, that I might almost have mistaken them for visitors.</p> + <p class="dgp">We had a very pleasant hour or two with the family, which I + enjoyed exceedingly. Mr. and Mrs. Douglas were full of the most considerate + kindness, and some of the daughters had intimate acquaintances in America. I + enjoy these little glimpses into family circles more than any thing else; there + is no warmth like fireside warmth.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening the rooms were filled. I should think all the + clergymen of Edinburgh must have been there, for I was introduced to ministers + without number. The Scotch have a good many little ways that are like ours; + they call their clergy ministers, as we do. There were many persons from + ancient families, distinguished in Scottish history both for rank and piety; + among others, Lady Carstairs, Sir Henry Moncrief and lady. There was also the + Countess of Gainsborough, one of the ladies of the queen's household, a very + beautiful woman with charming manners, reminding one of the line of + Pope—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Graceful ease, and sweetness void of pride."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I was introduced to Dr. John Brown, who is reckoned one of + the best exegetial scholars in Europe. He is small of stature, sprightly, and + pleasant in manners, but with a high bald forehead and snow-white hair.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were also many members of the faculty of the university. I + talked a little with Dr. Guthrie, whom I described in a former letter. I told + him that one thing which had been an agreeable disappointment to me was, the + apparent cordiality between the members of the Free and the National church. He + seemed to think that the wounds of the old conflict were, to a great extent, + healed. He spoke in high terms of the Duchess of Sutherland, her affability, + kindness, and considerateness to the poor. I forget from whom I received the + anecdote, but somebody told me this of her—that, one of her servants + having lost a relative, she had left a party where she was engaged, and gone in + the plainest attire and quietest way to attend the funeral. It was remarked + upon as showing her considerateness for the feelings of those in inferior + positions.</p> + <p class="dgp">About nine o'clock we left to go to the temperance + <em>soirée</em>. It was in the same place, and conducted in the same + way, with the others which I have described. The lord provost presided, and one + or two of the working men who spoke in the former <em>soirée</em> made + speeches, and very good ones too. The meeting was greatly enlivened by the + presence and speech of the jovial Lord Conynghame, who amused us all by the + gallant manner in which he expressed the warmth of Scottish welcome towards + "our American guests." If it had been in the old times of Scottish hospitality, + he said, he should have proposed a <em>bumper</em> three times three; but as + that could not be done in a temperance meeting, he proposed three cheers, in + which he led off with a hearty good will.</p> + <p class="dgp">All that the Scotch people need now for the prosperity of their + country is the temperance reformation; and undoubtedly they will have it. They + have good sense and strength of mind enough to work out whatever they + choose.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went home tired enough.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next day we had a few calls to make, and an invitation from + Lady Drummond to visit "classic Hawthornden." Accordingly, in the forenoon, Mr. + S. and I called first on Lord and Lady Gainsborough; though, she is one of the + queen's household, she is staying here at Edinburgh, and the queen at Osborne. + I infer therefore that the appointment includes no very onerous duties. The + Earl of Gainsborough is the eldest brother of Rev. Baptist W. Noel.</p> + <p class="dgp">Lady Gainsborough is the daughter of the Earl of Roden, who is + an Irish lord of the very strictest Calvinistic persuasion: He is a devout man, + and for many years, we were told, maintained a Calvinistic church of the + English establishment in Paris. While Mr. S. talked with Lord Gainsborough, I + talked with his lady, and Lady Roden, who was present. Lady Gainsborough + inquired about our schools for the poor, and how they were conducted. I + reflected a moment, and then answered that we had no schools for the poor as + such, but the common school was open alike to all classes.<a + href="#note_11"><span class="footnoteref">11</span></a></p> + <p class="dgp">In England and Scotland, in all classes, from the queen + downward, no movements are so popular as those for the education and elevation + of the poor; one is seldom in company without hearing the conversation turn + upon them.</p> + <p class="dgp">The conversation generally turned upon the condition of servants + in America. I said that one of the principal difficulties in American + housekeeping proceeded from the fact that there were so many other openings of + profit that very few were found willing to assume the position of the servant, + except as a temporary expedient; in fact, that the whole idea of service was + radically different, it being a mere temporary contract to render certain + services, not differing essentially from the contract of the mechanic or + tradesman. The ladies said they thought there could be no family feeling among + servants if that was the case; and I replied that, generally speaking, there + was none; that old and attached family servants in the free states were rare + exceptions.</p> + <p class="dgp">This, I know, must look, to persons in old countries, like a + hard and discouraging feature of democracy. I regard it, however, as only a + temporary difficulty. Many institutions among us are in a transition state. + Gradually the whole subject of the relations of labor and the industrial + callings will assume a new form in America, and though we shall never be able + to command the kind of service secured in aristocratic countries, yet we shall + have that which will be as faithful and efficient. If domestic service can be + made as pleasant, profitable, and respectable as any of the industrial + callings, it will soon become as permanent.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our next visit was to Sir William Hamilton and lady. Sir William + is the able successor of Dugald Stewart and Dr. Brown in the chair of + intellectual philosophy. His writings have had a wide circulation in America. + He is a man of noble presence, though we were sorry to see that he was + suffering from ill health. It seems to me that Scotland bears that relation to + England, with regard to metaphysical inquiry, that New England does to the rest + of the United States. If one counts over the names of distinguished + metaphysicians, the Scotch, as compared with the English, number three to + one—Reid, Stewart, Brown, all Scotchmen.</p> + <p class="dgp">Sir William still writes and lectures. He and Mr. S. were soon + discoursing on German, English, Scotch, and American metaphysics, while I was + talking with Lady Hamilton and her daughters. After we came away Mr. S. said, + that no man living had so thoroughly understood and analyzed the German + philosophy. He said that Sir William spoke of a call which he had received from + Professor Park, of Andover, and expressed himself in high terms of his + metaphysical powers.</p> + <p class="dgp">After that we went to call on George Combe, the physiologist. We + found him and Mrs. Combe in a pleasant, sunny parlor, where, among other + objects of artistic interest, we saw a very fine engraving of Mrs. Siddons. I + was not aware until after leaving that Mrs. Combe is her daughter. Mr. Combe, + though somewhat advanced, seems full of life and animation, and conversed with + a great deal of warmth and interest on America, where he made a tour some years + since. Like other men in Europe who sympathize in our progress, he was sanguine + in the hope that the downfall of slavery must come at no distant date.</p> + <p class="dgp">After a pleasant chat here we came home; and after an interval + of rest the carriage was at the door for Hawthornden. It is about seven miles + out from Edinburgh. It is a most romantic spot, on the banks of the River Esk, + now the seat of Mr. James Walker Drummond. Scott has sung in the ballad of the + Gray Brother,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">Sweet are the paths, O, passing sweet,</p> + <p class="l">By Esk's fair streams that run,</p> + <p class="l">O'er airy steep, through copse-woods deep,</p> + <p class="l">Impervious to the sun.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">Who knows not Melville's beechy grove,</p> + <p class="l">And Roslin's rocky glen,</p> + <p class="l">Dalkeith, which all the virtues love,</p> + <p class="l">And classic Hawthornden?</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">"Melville's beechy grove" is an allusion to the grounds of + Lord Melville, through which we drove on our way. The beech trees here are + magnificent; fully equal to any trees of the sort which I have seen in our + American forests, and they were in full leaf. They do not grow so high, but + have more breadth and a wider sweep of branches; on the whole they are well + worthy of a place in song.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image20.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">I know in my childhood I often used to wish that I could live in + a ruined castle; and this Hawthornden would be the very beau ideal of one as a + romantic dwelling-place. It is an old castellated house, perched on the airy + verge of a precipice, directly over the beautiful River Esk, looking down one + of the most romantic glens in Scotland. Part of it is in ruins, and, hung with + wreaths of ivy, it seems to stand just to look picturesque. The house itself, + with its quaint, high gables, and gray, antique walls, appears old enough to + take you back to the times of William Wallace. It is situated within an hour's + walk of Roslin Castle and Chapel, one of the most beautiful and poetic + architectural remains in Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our drive to the place was charming. It was a showery day; but + every few moments the sun blinked out, smiling through the falling rain, and + making the wet leaves glitter, and the raindrops wink at each other in the most + sociable manner possible. Arrived at the house, our friend, Miss + S——, took us into a beautiful parlor overhanging the glen, each + window of which commanded a picture better than was ever made on canvas.</p> + <p class="dgp">We had a little chat with Lady Drummond, and then we went down + to examine the caverns,—for there are caverns under the house, with long + galleries and passages running from them through the rocks, some way down the + river. Several apartments are hollowed out here in the rock on which the house + is founded, which they told us belonged to Bruce; the tradition being, that he + was hidden here for some months. There was his bed room, dining room, sitting + room, and a very curious apartment where the walls were all honeycombed into + little partitions, which they called his library, these little partitions being + his book shelves. There are small loophole windows in these apartments, where + you can look up and down the glen, and enjoy a magnificent prospect. For my + part, I thought if I were Bruce, sitting there with a book in my lap, listening + to the gentle brawl of the Esk, looking up and down the glen, watching the + shaking raindrops on the oaks, the birches and beeches, I should have thought + that was better than fighting, and that my pleasant little cave was as good an + arbor on the Hill Difficulty as ever mortal man enjoyed.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is a ponderous old two-handed sword kept here, said to + have belonged to Sir William Wallace. It is considerably shorter than it was + originally, but, resting on its point, it reached to the chin of a good six + foot gentleman of our party. The handle is made of the horn of a sea-horse, (if + you know what that is,) and has a heavy iron ball at the end. It must + altogether have weighed some ten or twelve pounds. Think of a man hewing away + <em>on men</em> with this!</p> + <p class="dgp">There is a well in this cavern, down which we were directed to + look and observe a hole in the side; this we were told was the entrance to + another set of caverns and chambers under those in which we were, and to + passages which extended down and opened out into the valley. In the olden days + the approach to these caverns was not through the house, but through the side + of a deep well sunk in the court yard, which communicates through a + subterranean passage with this well. Those seeking entrance were let down by a + windlass into the well in the court yard, and drawn up by a windlass into this + cavern. There was no such accommodation at present, but we were told some + enterprising tourists had explored the lower caverns. Pleasant kind of times + those old days must have been, when houses had to be built like a rabbit + burrow, with all these accommodations for concealment and escape.</p> + <p class="dgp">After exploring the caverns we came up into the parlors again, + and Miss S. showed me a Scottish album, in which were all sorts of sketches, + memorials, autographs, and other such matters. What interested me more, she was + making a collection of Scottish ballads, words and tunes. I told her that I had + noticed, since I had been in Scotland, that the young ladies seemed to take + very little interest in the national Scotch airs, and were all devoted to + Italian; moreover, that the Scotch ballads and memories, which so interested + me, seemed to have very little interest for people generally in Scotland. Miss + S. was warm enough in her zeal to make up a considerable account, and so we got + on well together.</p> + <p class="dgp">While we were sitting, chatting, two young ladies came in, who + had walked up the glen despite the showery day. They were protected by good, + substantial outer garments, of a kind of shag or plush, and so did not fear the + rain. I wanted to walk down to Roslin Castle, but the party told me there would + not be time this afternoon, as we should have to return at a certain hour. I + should not have been reconciled to this, had not another excursion been + proposed for the purpose of exploring Roslin.</p> + <p class="dgp">However, I determined to go a little way down the glen, and get + a distant view of it, and my fair friends, the young ladies, offered to + accompany me; so off we started down the winding paths, which were cut among + the banks overhanging the Esk. The ground was starred over with patches of + pale-yellow primroses, and for the first time I saw the heather, spreading over + rocks and matting itself around the roots of trees. My companions, to whom it + was the commonest thing in the world, could hardly appreciate the delight which + I felt in looking at it; it was not in flower; I believe it does not blossom + till some time in July or August. We have often seen it in greenhouses, and it + is so hardy that it is singular it will not grow wild in America.</p> + <p class="dgp">We walked, ran, and scrambled to an eminence which commanded a + view of Roslin Chapel, the only view, I fear, which will ever gladden my eyes, + for the promised expedition to it dissolved itself into mist. When on the hill + top, so that I could see the chapel at a distance, I stood thinking over the + ballad of Harold, in the Lay of the Last Minstrel, and the fate of the lovely + Rosabel, and saying over to myself the last verses of the ballad:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"O'er Roslin, all that dreary night,</p> + <p class="l">A wondrous blaze was seen to gleam;</p> + <p class="l">'Twas broader than the watchfire's light,</p> + <p class="l">And redder than the bright moonbeam.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">It glared on Roslin's castled rock,</p> + <p class="l">It ruddied, all the copsewood glen;</p> + <p class="l">'Twas seen from Deyden's groves of oak,</p> + <p class="l">And seen from cavern'd Hawthornden.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">Seemed all on fire that chapel proud,</p> + <p class="l">Where Roslin's chiefs uncoffined lie,</p> + <p class="l">Each baron, for a sable shroud,</p> + <p class="l">Sheathed in his iron panoply.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">Seemed all on fire within, around,</p> + <p class="l">Deep sacristy and altar's pale;</p> + <p class="l">Shone every pillar foliage-bound,</p> + <p class="l">And glimmered, all the dead men's mail.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">Blazed battlement and pinnet high,</p> + <p class="l">Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair,</p> + <p class="l">So will they blaze, when fate is nigh</p> + <p class="l">The lordly line of high St. Clair.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">There are twenty of Roslin's barons bold</p> + <p class="l">Lie buried, within that proud chapelle;</p> + <p class="l">Each one the holy vault doth hold;</p> + <p class="l">But the sea holds lovely Rosabelle!</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">And each St. Clair was buried there,</p> + <p class="l">With candle, with book, and with knell;</p> + <p class="l">But the sea caves rung, and the wild winds sung,</p> + <p class="l">The dirge of lovely Rosabelle."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">There are many allusions in this which show Scott's minute + habits of observation; for instance, these two lines:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Blazed battlement and pinnet high,</p> + <p class="l">Blazed every rose-carved buttress fair."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Every buttress, battlement, and projection of the exterior + is incrusted with the most elaborate floral and leafy carving, among which the + rose is often repeated, from its suggesting, by similarity of sound, + Roslin.</p> + <p class="dgp">Again, this line—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Shone every pillar foliage-bound"—</p> + </div> + <p class="dgp">suggests to the mind the profusion and elaborateness of the + leafy decorations in the inside. Among these, one pillar, garlanded with spiral + wreaths of carved foliage, is called the "Apprentice's Pillar;" the tradition + being, that while the master was gone to Rome to get some further hints on + executing the plan, a precocious young mason, whom he left at home, completed + it in his absence. The master builder summarily knocked him on the head, as a + warning to all progressive young men not to grow wiser than their teachers. + Tradition points out the heads of the master and workmen among the corbels. So + you see, whereas in old Greek times people used to point out their celebrities + among the stars, and gave a defunct hero a place in the constellations, in the + middle ages he only got a place among the corbels.</p> + <p class="dgp">I am increasingly sorry that I was beguiled out of my personal + examination of this chapel, since I have seen the plates of it in my Baronial + Sketches. It is the rival of Melrose, but more elaborate; in fact, it is a + perfect cataract of architectural vivacity and ingenuity, as defiant of any + rules of criticism and art as the leaf-embowered arcades and arches of our + American forest cathedrals. From the comparison of the plates of the + engravings, I should judge there was less delicacy of taste, and more + exuberance of invention, than in Melrose. One old prosaic commentator on it + says that it is quite remarkable that there are no two cuts in it precisely + alike; each buttress, window, and pillar is unique, though with such a general + resemblance to each other as to deceive the eye.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was built in 1446, by William St. Clair, who was Prince of + Orkney, Duke of Oldenburgh, Lord of Roslin, Earl of Caithness and Strathearn, + and so on <em>ad infinitum</em>. He was called the "Seemly St. Clair," from his + noble deportment and elegant manners; resided in royal splendor at this Castle + of Roslin, and kept a court there as Prince of Orkney. His table was served + with vessels of gold and silver, and he had one lord for his master of + household, one for his cup bearer, and one for his carver. His princess, + Elizabeth Douglas, was served by seventy-five gentlewomen, fifty-three of whom + were daughters of noblemen, and they were attended in all their excursions by a + retinue of two hundred gentlemen.</p> + <p class="dgp">These very woods and streams, which now hear nothing but the + murmurs of the Esk, were all alive with the bustle of a court in those + days.</p> + <p class="dgp">The castle was now distinctly visible; it stands on an insulated + rock, two hundred and twenty yards from the chapel. It has under it a set of + excavations and caverns almost equally curious with those of Hawthornden; there + are still some tolerably preserved rooms in it, and Mrs. W. informed me that + they had once rented these rooms for a summer residence. What a delightful + idea! The barons of Roslin were all buried under this Chapel, in their armor, + as Scott describes in the poem. And as this family were altogether more than + common folks, it is perfectly credible that on the death of one of them a + miraculous light should illuminate the castle, chapel, and whole + neighborhood.</p> + <p class="dgp">It appears, by certain ancient documents, that this high and + mighty house of St. Clair were in a particular manner patrons of the masonic + craft. It is known that the trade of masonry was then in the hands of a secret + and mysterious order, from whom probably our modern masons have descended.</p> + <p class="dgp">The St. Clair family, it appears, were at the head of this + order, with power to appoint officers and places of meeting, to punish + transgressors, and otherwise to have the superintendence of all their affairs. + This fact may account for such a perfect Geyser of architectural ingenuity as + has been poured out upon their family chapel, which was designed for a + <em>chef-d'oeuvre</em>, a concentration of the best that could be done to the + honor of their patron's family. The documents which authenticate this statement + are described in Billings's Baronial Antiquities. So much for "the lordly line + of high St. Clair."</p> + <p class="dgp">When we came back to the house, and after taking coffee in the + drawing room, Miss S. took me over the interior, a most delightful place, full + of all sorts of out-of-the-way snuggeries, and comfortable corners, and poetic + irregularities. There she showed me a picture of one of the early ancestors of + the family, the poet Drummond, hanging in a room, which tradition has assigned + to him. It represents a man with a dark, Spanish-looking face, with the broad + Elizabethan ruff, earnest, melancholy eyes, and an air half cavalier, half + poet, bringing to mind the chivalrous, graceful, fastidious bard, accomplished + scholar, and courtier of his time, the devout believer in the divine right of + kings, and of the immunities and privileges of the upper class generally. This + Drummond, it seems, was early engaged to a fair young lady, whose death + rendered his beautiful retreat of Hawthornden insupportable to him, and of + course, like other persons of romance, he sought refuge in foreign travel, went + abroad, and remained eight years. Afterwards he came back, married, and lived + here for some time.</p> + <p class="dgp">Among other traditions of the place, it is said that Ben Jonson + once walked all the way from London to visit the poet in this retreat; and a + tree is still shown on the grounds under which they are said to have met. It + seems that Ben's habits were rather too noisy and convivial to meet altogether + the taste of his fastidious and aristocratic host; and so he had his own + thoughts of him, which, being written down in a diary, were published by some + indiscreet executor, after they were both dead.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were shown an old, original edition of the poems. I must + confess I never read them. Since I have seen the material the poet and novelist + has on this ground, all I wonder at is, that there have not been a thousand + poets to one. I should have thought they would have been as plenty as the mavis + and merle, and sprouting out every where, like the primroses and heather + bells.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our American literature is unfortunate in this + respect—that our nation never had any childhood, our day never had any + dawn; so we have very little traditionary lore to work over.</p> + <p class="dgp">We came home about five o'clock, and had some company in the + evening. Some time to-day I had a little chat with Mrs. W. on the Quakers. She + is a cultivated and thoughtful woman, and seemed to take quite impartial views, + and did not consider her own sect as by any means the only form of + Christianity, but maintained—what every sensible person must grant, I + think—that it has had an important mission in society, even in its + peculiarities. I inferred from her conversation that the system of plain dress, + maintained with the nicety which they always use, is by no means a saving in a + pecuniary point of view. She stated that one young friend, who had been brought + up in this persuasion, gave it as her reason for not adopting its peculiar + dress, that she could not afford it; that is to say, that for a given sum of + money she could make a more creditable appearance were she allowed the range of + form, shape, and trimming, which the ordinary style of dressing permits.</p> + <p class="dgp">I think almost any lady, who knows the magical value of bits of + trimming, and bows of ribbon judiciously adjusted in critical locations, of + inserting, edging, and embroidery, considered as economic arts, must + acknowledge that there is some force in the young lady's opinion. Nevertheless + the Doric simplicity of a Quaker lady's dress, who is in circumstances to + choose her material, has a peculiar charm. As at present advised, the Quaker + ladies whom I have seen very judiciously adhere to the spirit of plain attire, + without troubling themselves to maintain the exact letter. For instance, a + plain straw cottage, with its white satin ribbon, is sometimes allowed to take + the place of the close silk bonnet of Fox's day.</p> + <p class="dgp">For my part, while I reverence the pious and unworldly spirit + which dictated the peculiar forms of the Quaker sect, I look for a higher + development of religion still, when all the beautiful artistic faculties of the + soul being wholly sanctified and offered up to God, we shall no longer shun + beauty in any of its forms, either in dress or household adornment, as a + temptation, but rather offer it up as a sacrifice to Him who has set us the + example, by making every thing beautiful in its season.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to art and letters, I find many of my Quaker friends + sympathizing in those judicious views which were taken by the society of + Friends in Philadelphia, when Benjamin West developed a talent for painting, + regarding such talent as an indication of the will of Him who had bestowed it. + So I find many of them taking pleasure in the poetry of Scott, Longfellow, and + Whittier, as developments of his wisdom who gives to the human soul its + different faculties and inspirations.</p> + <p class="dgp">More delightful society than a cultivated Quaker family cannot + be found: the truthfulness, genuineness, and simplicity of character, albeit + not wanting, at proper times, a shrewd dash of worldly wisdom, are very + refreshing.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mrs. W. and I went to the studio of Hervey, the Scotch artist. + Both he and his wife received us with great kindness. I saw there his + Covenanters celebrating the Lord's Supper—a picture which I could not + look at critically on account of the tears which kept blinding my eyes. It + represents a bleak hollow of a mountain side, where a few trembling old men and + women, a few young girls and children, with one or two young men, are grouped + together, in that moment of hushed prayerful repose which precedes the breaking + of the sacramental bread. There is something touching always about that worn, + weary look of rest and comfort with which a sick child lies down on a mother's + bosom, and like this is the expression with which these hunted fugitives nestle + themselves beneath the shadow of their Redeemer; mothers who had seen their + sons "tortured, not accepting deliverance"—wives who had seen the blood + of their husbands poured out on their doorstone—children with no father + but God—and bereaved old men, from whom, every child had been + rent—all gathering for comfort round the cross of a suffering Lord. In + such hours they found strength to suffer, and to say to every allurement of + worldly sense and pleasure as the drowning Margaret Wilson said to the tempters + in her hour of martyrdom, "I am <em>Christ's child</em>—let me go."</p> + <p class="dgp">Another most touching picture of Hervey's commemorates a later + scene of Scottish devotion and martyr endurance scarcely below that of the days + of the Covenant. It is called Leaving the Manse.</p> + <p class="dgp">We in America all felt to our heart's core a sympathy with that + high endurance which led so many Scottish ministers to forsake their churches, + their salaries, the happy homes where their children were born and their days + passed, rather than violate a principle.</p> + <p class="dgp">This picture is a monument of this struggle. There rises the + manse overgrown with its flowering vines, the image of a lovely, peaceful home. + The minister's wife, a pale, lovely creature, is just locking the door, out of + which her husband and family have passed—leaving it forever. The husband + and father is supporting on his arm an aged, feeble mother, and the weeping + children are gathering sorrowfully round him, each bearing away some memorial + of their home; one has the bird cage. But the unequalled look of high, unshaken + patience, of heroic faith, and love which seems to spread its light over every + face, is what I cannot paint. The painter told me that the faces were + <em>portraits</em>, and the scene by no means imaginary.</p> + <p class="dgp">But did not these sacrifices bring with them, even in their + bitterness, a joy the world knoweth not? Yes, they did. I know it full well, + not vainly did Christ say, There is no man that hath left houses or lands for + my sake and the gospel's but he shall receive manifold more <em>in this + life</em>.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. Hervey kindly gave me the engraving of his Covenanters' + Sacrament, which I shall keep as a memento of him and of Scotland.</p> + <p class="dgp">His style of painting is forcible and individual. He showed us + the studies that he has taken with his palette and brushes out on the mountains + and moors of Scotland, painting moss, and stone, and brook, just as it is. This + is the way to be a national painter.</p> + <p class="dgp">One pleasant evening, not long before we left Edinburgh, C., S., + and I walked out for a quiet stroll. We went through the Grass Market, where so + many defenders of the Covenant have suffered, and turned into the churchyard of + the Gray Friars; a gray, old Gothic building, with multitudes of graves around + it. Here we saw the tombs of Allan Ramsay and many other distinguished + characters. The grim, uncouth sculpture on the old graves, and the quaint + epitaphs, interested me much; but I was most moved by coming quite unexpectedly + on an ivy-grown slab, in the wall, commemorating the martyrs of the Covenant. + The inscription struck me so much, that I got C—— to copy it in his + memorandum book.</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Halt, passenger! take heed what you do see.</p> + <p class="l">Here lies interred the dust of those who stood</p> + <p class="l">'Gainst perjury, resisting unto blood,</p> + <p class="l">Adhering to the Covenant, and laws</p> + <p class="l">Establishing the same; which was the cause</p> + <p class="l">Their lives were sacrificed unto the last</p> + <p class="l">Of prelatists abjured, though here their dust</p> + <p class="l">Lies mixed with murderers and other crew</p> + <p class="l">Whom justice justly did to death pursue;</p> + <p class="l">But as for them, no cause was to be found</p> + <p class="l">Worthy of death, but only they were found</p> + <p class="l">Constant and steadfast, witnessing</p> + <p class="l">For the prerogatives of Christ their King;</p> + <p class="l">Which truths were sealed, by famous Guthrie's head,</p> + <p class="l">And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood</p> + <p class="l">They did endure the wrath of enemies,</p> + <p class="l">Reproaches, torments, deaths, and injuries;</p> + <p class="l">But yet they're those who from such troubles came</p> + <p class="l">And triumph now in glory with the Lamb.</p> + </div> + <div class="display"> + "From May 27, 1681, when the Marquis of Argyle was beheaded, to February 17, + 1688, when James Renwick suffered, there were some eighteen thousand one way + or other murdered, of whom were executed at Edinburgh about one hundred + noblemen, ministers, and gentlemen, and others, noble martyrs for Christ." + </div> + <p class="dgp">Despite the roughness of the verse, there is a thrilling power + in these lines. People in gilded houses, on silken couches, at ease among + books, and friends, and literary pastimes, may sneer at the Covenanters; it is + much easier to sneer than to die for truth and right, as they died. Whether + they were right in all respects is nothing to the purpose; but it is to the + purpose that in a crisis of their country's history they upheld a great + principle vital to her existence. Had not these men held up the heart of + Scotland, and kept alive the fire of liberty on her altars, the very literature + which has been used to defame them could not have had its existence. The very + literary celebrity of Scotland has grown out of their grave; for a vigorous and + original literature is impossible, except to a strong, free, self-respecting + people. The literature of a people must spring from the sense of its + nationality; and nationality is impossible without self-respect, and + self-respect is impossible without liberty.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is one of the trials of our mortal state, one of the + disciplines of our virtue, that the world's benefactors and reformers are so + often without form or comeliness. The very force necessary to sustain the + conflict makes them appear unlovely; they "tread the wine press alone, and of + the people there is none with them." The shrieks, and groans, and agonies of + men wrestling in mortal combat are often not graceful or gracious; but the + comments that the children of the Puritans, and the children of the + Covenanters, make on the ungraceful and severe elements which marked the + struggles of their great fathers, are as ill-timed as if a son, whom a mother + had just borne from a burning dwelling, should criticize the shrieks with which + she sought him, and point out to ridicule the dishevelled hair and singed + garments which show how she struggled for his life. But these are they which + are "sown in weakness, but raised in power; which are sown in dishonor, but + raised in glory:" even in this world they will have their judgment day, and + their names which went down in the dust like a gallant banner trodden in the + mire, shall rise again all glorious in the sight of nations.</p> + <p class="dgp">The evening sky, glowing red, threw out the bold outline of the + castle, and the quaint old edifices as they seemed to look down on us silently + from their rocky heights, and the figure of Salisbury Crags marked itself + against the red sky like a couchant lion.</p> + <p class="dgp">The time of our sojourn in Scotland had drawn towards its close. + Though feeble in health, this visit to me has been full of enjoyment; full of + lofty, but sad memories; full of sympathies and inspirations. I think there is + no nobler land, and I pray God that the old seed here sown in blood and tears + may never be rooted out of Scotland.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_27" name="toc_27"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter X</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + H.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">It was a rainy, misty morning when I left my kind retreat and + friends in Edinburgh. Considerate as every body had been about imposing on my + time or strength, still you may well believe that I was much exhausted.</p> + <p class="dgp">We left Edinburgh, therefore, with the determination to plunge + at once into some hidden and unknown spot, where we might spend two or three + days quietly by ourselves; and remembering your Sunday at Stratford-on-Avon, I + proposed that we should go there. As Stratford, however, is off the railroad + line we determined to accept the invitation, which was lying by us, from our + friend Joseph Sturge, of Birmingham, and take sanctuary with him. So we wrote + on, intrusting him with the secret, and charging him on no account to let any + one know of our arrival.</p> + <p class="dgp">Well in the rail car, we went whirling along by Preston Pans, + where was fought the celebrated battle in which Colonel Gardiner was killed; by + Dunbar, where Cromwell told his army to "trust in God and keep their powder + dry;" through Berwick-on-the-Tweed and Newcastle-on-Tyne; by the old towers and + gates of York, with its splendid cathedral; getting a view of Durham Cathedral + in the distance.</p> + <p class="dgp">The country between Berwick and Newcastle is one of the greatest + manufacturing districts of England, and for smoke, smut, and gloom, Pittsburg + and Wheeling bear no comparison to it. The English sky, always paler and cooler + in its tints than ours, here seems to be turned into a leaden canopy; tall + chimneys belch forth gloom and confusion; houses, factories, fences, even trees + and grass, look grim and sooty.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is true that people with immense wealth can live in such + regions in cleanliness and elegance; but how must it be with the poor? I know + of no one circumstance more unfavorable to moral purity than the necessity of + being physically dirty. Our nature is so intensely symbolical, that where the + outward sign of defilement becomes habitual, the inner is too apt to + correspond. I am quite sure that before there can be a universal millennium, + trade must be pursued in such a way as to enable the working classes to realize + something of beauty and purity in the circumstances of their outward life.</p> + <p class="dgp">I have heard there is a law before the British Parliament, whose + operation is designed to purify the air of England by introducing chimneys + which shall consume all the sooty particles which now float about, obscuring + the air and carrying defilement with them. May that day be hastened!</p> + <p class="dgp">At Newcastle-on-Tyne and some other places various friends came + out to meet us, some of whom presented us with most splendid bouquets of + hothouse flowers. This region has been the seat of some of the most zealous and + efficient antislavery operations in England.</p> + <p class="dgp">About night our cars whizzed into the depot at Birmingham; but + just before we came in a difficulty was started in the company. "Mr. Sturge is + to be there waiting for us, but he does not know us, and we don't know him; + what is to be done?" C—— insisted that he should know him by + instinct; and so after we reached the depot, we told him to sally out and try. + Sure enough, in a few moments he pitched upon a cheerful, middle-aged + gentleman, with a moderate but not decisive broad brim to his hat, and + challenged him as Mr. Sturge; the result verified the truth that "instinct is a + great matter." In a few moments our new friend and ourselves were snugly + encased in a fly, trotting off as briskly as ever we could to his place at + Edgbaston, nobody a whit the wiser. You do not know how snug we felt to think + we had done it so nicely.</p> + <p class="dgp">The carriage soon drove in upon a gravel walk, winding among + turf, flowers, and shrubs, where we found opening to us another home as warm + and kindly as the one we had just left, made doubly interesting by the idea of + entire privacy and seclusion.</p> + <p class="dgp">After retiring to our chambers to repair the ravages of travel, + we united in the pleasant supper room, where the table was laid before a bright + coal fire: no unimportant feature this fire, I can assure you, in a raw cloudy + evening. A glass door from the supper room opened into a conservatory, + brilliant with pink and yellow azalias, golden calceolarias, and a profusion of + other beauties, whose names I did not know.</p> + <p class="dgp">The side tables were strewn with books, and the ample folds of + the drab curtains, let down over the windows, shut out the rain, damp, and + chill. When we were gathered round the table, Mr. Sturge said that he had + somewhat expected Elihu Burritt that evening, and we all hoped he would come. I + must not omit to say, that the evening circle was made more attractive and + agreeable in my eyes by the presence of two or three of the little people, who + were blessed with the rosy cheek of English children.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge is one of the most prominent and efficient of the + philanthropists of modern days. An air of benignity and easy good nature veils + and conceals in him the most unflinching perseverance and energy of purpose. He + has for many years been a zealous advocate of the antislavery cause in England, + taking up efficiently the work begun by Clarkson and Wilberforce. He, with a + friend of the same denomination, made a journey at their own expense, to + investigate the workings of the apprentice system, by which the act of + immediate emancipation in the West Indies was for a while delayed. After his + return he sustained a rigorous examination of seven days before a committee of + the House of Commons, the result of which successfully demonstrated the abuses + of that system, and its entire inutility for preparing either masters or + servants for final emancipation. This evidence went as far as any thing to + induce Parliament to declare immediate and entire emancipation.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge also has been equally zealous and engaged in + movements for the ignorant and perishing classes at home. At his own expense he + has sustained a private Farm School for the reformation of juvenile offenders, + and it has sometimes been found that boys, whom no severity and no punishment + seemed to affect, have been entirely melted and subdued by the gentler measures + here employed. He has also taken a very ardent and decided part in efforts for + the extension of the principles of peace, being a warm friend and supporter of + Elihu Burritt.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next morning it was agreed that we should take our drive to + Stratford-on-Avon. As yet this shrine of pilgrims stands a little aloof from + the bustle of modern progress, and railroad cars do not run whistling and + whisking with brisk officiousness by the old church and the fanciful banks of + the Avon.</p> + <p class="dgp">The country that we were to pass over was more peculiarly old + English; that phase of old English which is destined soon to pass away, under + the restless regenerating force of modern progress.</p> + <p class="dgp">Our ride along was a singular commixture of an upper and under + current of thought. Deep down in our hearts we were going back to English days; + the cumbrous, quaint, queer, old, picturesque times; the dim, haunted times + between cock-crowing and morning; those hours of national childhood, when + popular ideas had the confiding credulity, the poetic vivacity, and versatile + life, which distinguish children from grown people.</p> + <p class="dgp">No one can fail to feel, in reading any of the plays of + Shakspeare, that he was born in an age of credulity and marvels, and that the + materials out of which his mind was woven were dyed in the grain, in the + haunted springs of tradition. It would have been as absolutely impossible for + even himself, had he been born in the daylight of this century, to have built + those quaint, Gothic structures of imagination, and tinted them with their + peculiar coloring of marvellousness and mystery, as for a modern artist to + originate and execute the weird designs of an ancient cathedral. Both Gothic + architecture and this perfection of Gothic poetry were the springing and + efflorescence of that age, impossible to grow again. They were the forest + primeval; other trees may spring in their room, trees as mighty and as fair, + but not such trees.</p> + <p class="dgp">So, as we rode along, our speculations and thoughts in the under + current were back in the old world of tradition. While, on the other hand, for + the upper current, we were keeping up a brisk conversation on the peace + question, on the abolition of slavery, on the possibility of ignoring + slave-grown produce, on Mr. Cobden and Mr. Bright, and, in fact, on all the + most wide-awake topics of the present day.</p> + <p class="dgp">One little incident occurred upon the road. As we were passing + by a quaint old mansion, which stood back from the road, surrounded by a deep + court, Mr. S. said to me, "There is a friend here who would like to see thee, + if thou hast no objections," and went on to inform me that she was an aged + woman, who had taken a deep interest in the abolition of slavery since the time + of its first inception under Clarkson and Wilberforce, though now lying very + low on a sick bed. Of course we all expressed our willingness to stop, and the + carriage was soon driving up the gravelled walk towards the house. We were + ushered into a comfortable sitting room, which looked out on beautiful grounds, + where the velvet grass, tall, dark trees, and a certain quaint air of antiquity + in disposition and arrangement, gave me a singular kind of pleasure; the more + so, that it came to me like a dream; that the house and the people were unknown + to me, and the whole affair entirely unexpected.</p> + <p class="dgp">I was soon shown into a neat chamber, where an aged woman was + lying in bed. I was very much struck and impressed by her manner of receiving + me. With deep emotion and tears, she spoke of the solemnity and sacredness of + the cause which had for years lain near her heart. There seemed to be something + almost prophetic in the solemn strain of assurance with which she spoke of the + final extinction of slavery throughout the world.</p> + <p class="dgp">I felt both pleased and sorrowful. I felt sorrowful because I + knew, if all true Christians in America had the same feelings, that men, women, + and children, for whom Christ died, would no more be sold in my country on the + auction block.</p> + <p class="dgp">There have been those in America who have felt and prayed thus + nobly and sincerely for the heathen in Burmah and Hindostan, and that sentiment + was a beautiful and an ennobling one; but, alas! the number has been few who + have felt and prayed for the heathenism, and shame of our own country; for the + heathenism which sells the very members of the body of Christ as + merchandise.</p> + <p class="dgp">When we were again on the road, we were talking on the change of + times in England since railroads began; and Mr. S. gave an amusing description + of how the old lords used to travel in state, with their coaches and horses, + when they went up once a year on a solemn pilgrimage to London, with postilions + and outriders, and all the country gaping and wondering after them.</p> + <p class="dgp">"I wonder," said one of us, "if Shakspeare were living, what he + would say to our times, and what he would think of all the questions that are + agitating the world now." That he did have thoughts whose roots ran far beyond + the depth of the age in which he lived, is plain enough from numberless + indications in his plays; but whether he would have taken any practical + interest in the world's movements is a fair question. The poetic mind is not + always the progressive one; it has, like moss and ivy, a need for something old + to cling to and germinate upon. The artistic temperament, too, is soft and + sensitive; so there are all these reasons for thinking that perhaps he would + have been for keeping out of the way of the heat and dust of modern progress. + It does not follow because a man has penetration to see an evil, he has energy + to reform it.</p> + <p class="dgp">Erasmus saw all that Luther saw just as clearly, but he said + that he had rather never have truth at all, than contend for it with the world + in such a tumult. However, on the other hand, England did, in Milton, have one + poet who girt himself up to the roughest and stormiest work of reformation; so + it is not quite certain, after all, that Shakspeare might not have been a + reformer in our times. One thing is quite certain, that he would have said very + shrewd things about all the matters that move the world now, as he certainly + did about all matters that he was cognizant of in his own day.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was a little before noon when we drove into Stratford, by + which time, with our usual fatality in visiting poetic shrines, the day had + melted off into a kind of drizzling mist, strongly suggestive of a downright + rain. It is a common trick these English days have; the weather here seems to + be possessed of a water spirit. This constant drizzle is good for ivies, and + hawthorns, and ladies' complexions, as whoever travels here will observe, but + it certainly is very bad for tourists.</p> + <p class="dgp">This Stratford is a small town, of between three and four + thousand inhabitants, and has in it a good many quaint old houses, and is + characterized (so I thought) by an air of respectable, stand-still, and + meditative repose, which, I am afraid, will entirely give way before the + railroad demon, for I understand that it is soon to be connected by the Oxford, + Worcester, and Wolverhampton line with all parts of the kingdom. Just think of + that black little screeching imp rushing through these fields which have + inspired so many fancies; how every thing poetical will fly before it! Think of + such sweet snatches as these set to the tune of a railroad whistle:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Hark! hark! the lark at heaven's gate sings,</p> + <p class="l">And Phoebus 'gins to rise,</p> + <p class="l">His steeds to water at those springs</p> + <p class="l">On chaliced flowers that lies.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">And winking Mary-buds begin</p> + <p class="l">To ope their golden eyes,</p> + <p class="l">With everything that pretty bid</p> + <p class="l">My lady sweet to rise."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">And again:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Philomel with melody sing in our sweet lullaby,</p> + <p class="l">Lulla, lulla, lullaby.</p> + <p class="l">Never harm, nor spell, nor charm,</p> + <p class="l">Come our lovely lady nigh."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I suppose the meadows, with their "winking Mary-buds," will + be all cut up into building lots in the good times coming, and Philomel caught + and put in a cage to sing to tourists at threepence a head.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went to the White Lion, and soon had a little quiet parlor to + ourselves, neatly carpeted, with a sofa drawn up to the cheerful coal fire, a + good-toned piano, and in short every thing cheerful and comfortable.</p> + <p class="dgp">At first we thought we were too tired to do any thing till after + dinner; we were going to take time to rest ourselves and proceed leisurely; so, + while the cloth was laying, C—— took possession of the piano, and I + of the sofa, till Mr. S. came in upon us, saying, "Why, Shakspeare's house is + right the next door here!" Upon that we got up, just to take a peep, and from + peeping we proceeded to looking, and finally put on our things and went over + <em>seriatim</em>. The house has recently been bought by a Shakspearian club, + who have taken upon themselves the restoration and preservation of the + premises.</p> + <p class="dgp">Shakspeare's father, it seems, was a man of some position and + substance in his day, being high sheriff and justice of the peace for the + borough; and this house, therefore, I suppose, may be considered a specimen of + the respectable class of houses in the times of Queen Elizabeth. This cut is + taken from an old print, and is supposed to represent the original condition of + the house.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image21.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">We saw a good many old houses somewhat similar to this on the + road, particularly resembling it in this manner of plastering, which shows all + the timber on the outside. Parts of the house have been sold, altered, and used + for various purposes; a butcher's stall having been kept in a part of it, and a + tavern in another portion, being new-fronted with brick.</p> + <p class="dgp">The object of this Shakspeare Club has been to repurchase all + these parts, and restore them as nearly as possible to their primeval + condition. The part of the house which is shown consists of a lower room, which + is floored with flat stones very much broken. It has a wide, old-fashioned + chimney on one side, and opens into a smaller room back of it. From thence you + go up a rude flight of stairs to a low-studded room, with rough-plastered + walls, where the poet was born.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image22.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">The prints of this room, which are generally sold, allow + themselves in considerable poetic license, representing it in fact as quite an + elegant apartment, whereas, though it is kept scrupulously neat and clean, the + air of it is ancient and rude. This is a somewhat flattered likeness. The + roughly-plastered walls are so covered with names that it seemed impossible to + add another. The name of almost every modern genius, names of kings, princes, + dukes, are shown here; and it is really curious to see by what devices some + very insignificant personages have endeavored to make their own names + conspicuous in the crowd. Generally speaking the inscription books and walls of + distinguished places tend to give great force to the Vulgate rendering of + Ecclesiastes i. 15, "The number of fools is infinite."</p> + <p class="dgp">To add a name in a private, modest way to walls already so + crowded, is allowable; but to scrawl one's name, place of birth, and country, + half across a wall, covering scores of names under it, is an operation which + speaks for itself. No one would ever want to know more of a man than to see his + name there and thus.</p> + <p class="dgp">Back of this room were some small bed rooms, and what interested + me much, a staircase leading up into a dark garret. I could not but fancy I saw + a bright-eyed, curly-headed boy creeping up those stairs, zealous to explore + the mysteries of that dark garret. There perhaps he saw the cat, with "eyne of + burning coal, crouching 'fore the mouse's hole." Doubtless in this old garret + were wonderful mysteries to him, curious stores of old cast-off goods and + furniture, and rats, and mice, and cobwebs. I fancied the indignation of some + belligerent grandmother or aunt, who finds Willie up there watching a mouse + hole, with the cat, and has him down straightway, grumbling that Mary did not + govern that child better.</p> + <p class="dgp">We know nothing who this Mary was that was his mother; but one + sometimes wonders where in that coarse age, when queens and ladies talked + familiarly, as women would blush to talk now, and when the broad, coarse wit of + the Merry Wives of Windsor was gotten up to suit the taste of a virgin + queen,—one wonders, I say, when women were such and so, where he found + those models of lily-like purity, women so chaste in soul and pure in language + that they could not even bring their lips to utter a word of shame. Desdemona + cannot even bring herself to speak the coarse word with which her husband + taunts her; she cannot make herself believe that there are women in the world + who could stoop-to such grossness.<a href="#note_12"><span + class="footnoteref">12</span></a></p> + <p class="dgp">For my part I cannot believe that, in such an age, such deep + heart-knowledge of pure womanhood could have come otherwise than by the + impression on the child's soul of a mother's purity. I seem to have a vision of + one of those women whom the world knows not of, silent, deep-hearted, loving, + whom the coarser and more practically efficient jostle aside and underrate for + their want of interest in the noisy chitchat and commonplace of the day; but + who yet have a sacred power, like that of the spirit of peace, to brood with + dovelike wings over the childish heart, and quicken into life the struggling, + slumbering elements of a sensitive nature.</p> + <p class="dgp">I cannot but think, in that beautiful scene, where he represents + Desdemona as amazed and struck dumb with the grossness and brutality of the + charges which had been thrown upon her, yet so dignified in the consciousness + of her own purity, so magnanimous in the power of disinterested, forgiving + love, that he was portraying no ideal excellence, but only reproducing, under + fictitious and supposititious circumstances, the patience, magnanimity, and + enduring love which had shone upon him in the household words and ways of his + mother.</p> + <p class="dgp">It seemed to me that in that bare and lowly chamber I saw a + vision of a lovely face which was the first beauty that dawned on those + childish eyes, and heard that voice whose lullaby tuned his ear to an exquisite + sense of cadence and rhythm. I fancied that, while she thus serenely shone + upon, him like a benignant star, some rigorous grand-aunt took upon her the + practical part of his guidance, chased up his wanderings to the right and left, + scolded him for wanting to look out of the window because his little climbing + toes left their mark on the neat wall, or rigorously arrested him when his + curly head was seen bobbing off at the bottom of the street, following a bird, + or a dog, or a showman; intercepting him in some happy hour when he was aiming + to strike off on his own account to an adjoining field for "winking Mary-buds;" + made long sermons to him on the wickedness of muddying his clothes and wetting + his new shoes, (if he had any,) and told him that something dreadful would come + out of the graveyard and catch him if he was not a better boy, imagining that + if it were not for her bustling activity Willie would go straight to + destruction.</p> + <p class="dgp">I seem, too, to have a kind of perception of Shakspeare's + father; a quiet, God-fearing, thoughtful man, given to the reading of good + books, avoiding quarrels with a most Christian-like fear, and with but small + talent, either in the way of speech making or money getting; a man who wore his + coat with an easy slouch, and who seldom knew where his money went to.</p> + <p class="dgp">All these things I seemed to perceive as if a sort of vision had + radiated from the old walls; there seemed to be the rustling of garments and + the sound of voices in the deserted rooms; the pattering of feet on the + worm-eaten staircase; the light of still, shady summer afternoons, a hundred + years ago, seemed to fall through the casements and lie upon the floor. There + was an interest to every thing about the house, even to the quaint iron + fastenings about the windows; because those might have arrested that child's + attention, and been dwelt on in some dreamy hour of infant thought. The fires + that once burned in those old chimneys, the fleeting sparks, the curling smoke, + and glowing coals, all may have inspired their fancies. There is a strong tinge + of household coloring in many parts of Shakspeare, imagery that could only have + come from such habits of quiet, household contemplation. See, for example, this + description of the stillness of the house, after all are gone to bed at + night:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Now sleep yslaked hath the rout;</p> + <p class="l">No din but snores, the house about,</p> + <p class="l">Made louder by the o'er-fed breast</p> + <p class="l">Of this most pompous marriage feast.</p> + <p class="l">The cat, with, eyne of burning coal,</p> + <p class="l">Now crouches 'fore the mouse's hole;</p> + <p class="l">And, crickets sing at th' oven's mouth,</p> + <p class="l">As the blither for their drouth."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Also this description of the midnight capers of the fairies + about the house, from Midsummer Night's Dream:—</p> + <div class="speaker"> + PUCK.: + </div> + <div class="sp"> + <p class="l">"Now the hungry lion roars,</p> + <p class="l">And the wolf behowls the moon;</p> + <p class="l">Whilst the heavy ploughman snores,</p> + <p class="l">All with, weary task fordone.</p> + <p class="l">Now the wasted brands do glow,</p> + <p class="l">Whilst the scritch-owl, scritching loud,</p> + <p class="l">Puts the wretch, that lies in woe,</p> + <p class="l">In remembrance of a shroud.</p> + <p class="l">Now it is the time of night,</p> + <p class="l">That the graves all gaping wide,</p> + <p class="l">Every one lets forth his sprite,</p> + <p class="l">In the churchway paths to glide:</p> + <p class="l">And we fairies that do run</p> + <p class="l">By the triple Hecate's team,</p> + <p class="l">From the presence of the sun,</p> + <p class="l">Following darkness like a dream,</p> + <p class="l">Now are frolic; not a mouse</p> + <p class="l">Shall disturb this hallowed house:</p> + <p class="l">I am sent with, broom, before,</p> + <p class="l">To sweep the dust behind the door.</p> + </div> + <div class="speaker"> + OBE.: + </div> + <div class="sp"> + <p class="l">Through this house give glimmering light,</p> + <p class="l">By the dead and drowsy fire:</p> + <p class="l">Every elf, and fairy sprite,</p> + <p class="l">Hop as light as bird, from brier;</p> + <p class="l">And this ditty after me</p> + <p class="l">Sing, and dance it trippingly."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">By the by, one cannot but be struck with the resemblance, + in the spirit and coloring of these lines, to those very similar ones in the + Penseroso of Milton:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Far from all resort of mirth,</p> + <p class="l">Save the cricket on the hearth,</p> + <p class="l">Or the bellman's drowsy charm,</p> + <p class="l">To bless the doors from nightly harm;</p> + <p class="l">While glowing embers, through the room,</p> + <p class="l">Teach light to counterfeit a gloom."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I have often noticed how much the first writings of Milton + resemble in their imagery and tone of coloring those of Shakspeare, + particularly in the phraseology and manner of describing flowers. I think, were + a certain number of passages from Lycidas and Comus interspersed with a certain + number from Midsummer Night's Dream, the imagery, tone of thought, and style of + coloring, would be found so nearly identical, that it would be difficult for + one not perfectly familiar to distinguish them. You may try it.</p> + <p class="dgp">That Milton read and admired Shakspeare is evident from his + allusion to him in L'Allegro. It is evident, however, that Milton's taste had + been so formed by the Greek models, that he was not entirely aware of all that + was in Shakspeare; he speaks of him as a sweet, fanciful warbler, and it is + exactly in sweetness and fancifulness that he seems to have derived benefit + from him. In his earlier poems, Milton seems, like Shakspeare, to have let his + mind run freely, as a brook warbles over many-colored pebbles; whereas in his + great poem he built after models. Had he known as little Latin and Greek as + Shakspeare, the world, instead of seeing a well-arranged imitation of the + ancient epics from his pen, would have seen inaugurated a new order of + poetry.</p> + <p class="dgp">An unequalled artist, who should build after the model of a + Grecian temple, would doubtless produce a splendid and effective building, + because a certain originality always inheres in genius, even when copying; but + far greater were it to invent an entirely new style of architecture, as + different as the Gothic from the Grecian. This merit was Shakspeare's. He was a + superb Gothic poet; Milton, a magnificent imitator of old forms, which by his + genius were wrought almost into the energy of new productions.</p> + <p class="dgp">I think Shakspeare is to Milton precisely what Gothic + architecture is to Grecian, or rather to the warmest, most vitalized + reproductions of the Grecian; there is in Milton a calm, severe majesty, a + graceful and polished inflorescence of ornament, that produces, as you look + upon it, a serene, long, strong ground-swell of admiration and approval. Yet + there is a cold unity of expression, that calls into exercise only the very + highest range of our faculties: there is none of that wreathed involution of + smiles and tears, of solemn earnestness and quaint conceits; those sudden + uprushings of grand and magnificent sentiment, like the flame-pointed arches of + cathedrals; those ranges of fancy, half goblin, half human; those complications + of dizzy magnificence with fairy lightness; those streamings of many-colored + light; those carvings wherein every natural object is faithfully reproduced, + yet combined into a kind of enchantment: the union of all these is in + Shakspeare, and not in Milton. Milton had one most glorious phase of humanity + in its perfection; Shakspeare had all united; from the "deep and dreadful" + sub-bass of the organ to the most aerial warbling of its highest key, not a + stop or pipe was wanting.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image23.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">But, in fine, at the end of all this we went back to our hotel + to dinner. After dinner we set out to see the church. Even Walter Scott has not + a more poetic monument than this church, standing as it does amid old, + embowering trees, on the beautiful banks of the Avon. A soft, still rain was + falling on the leaves of the linden trees, as we walked up the avenue to the + church. Even rainy though it was, I noticed that many little birds would + occasionally break out into song. In the event of such a phenomenon as a bright + day, I think there must be quite a jubilee of birds here, even as he sung who + lies below:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The ousel-cock, so black of hue,</p> + <p class="l">With orange-tawny bill,</p> + <p class="l">The throstle with his note so true,</p> + <p class="l">The wren with little quill;</p> + <p class="l">The finch, the sparrow, and the lark,</p> + <p class="l">The plain-song cuckoo gray."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The church has been carefully restored inside, so that it + is now in excellent preservation, and Shakspeare lies buried under a broad, + flat stone in the chancel. I had full often read, and knew by heart, the + inscription on this stone; but somehow, when I came and stood over it, and read + it, it affected me as if there were an emanation from the grave beneath. I have + often wondered at that inscription, that a mind so sensitive, that had thought + so much, and expressed thought with such startling power on all the mysteries + of death, the grave, and the future world, should have found nothing else to + inscribe on his own grave but this:—</p> + <div class="display"> + <p class="noindent">Good Friend for Iesus SAKE forbare</p> + <p class="dgp">To digg T-E Dust EncloAsed HERe</p> + <p class="dgp">Blese be T-E Man T/Y spares T-Es Stones</p> + <p class="dgp">And curst be He T/Y moves my Bones</p> + </div> + <p class="dgp">It seems that the inscription has not been without its use, in + averting what the sensitive poet most dreaded; for it is recorded in one of the + books sold here, that some years ago, in digging a neighboring grave, a + careless sexton broke into the side of Shakspeare's tomb, and looking in saw + his bones, and could easily have carried away the skull had he not been + deterred by the imprecation.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is a monument in the side of the wall, which has a bust of + Shakspeare upon it, said to be the most authentic likeness, and supposed to + have been taken by a cast from his face after death. This statement was made to + us by the guide who showed it, and he stated that Chantrey had come to that + conclusion by a minute examination of the face. He took us into a room, where + was an exact plaster cast of the bust, on which he pointed out various little + minutiae on which this idea was founded. The two sides of the face are not + alike; there is a falling in and depression of the muscles on one side which + does not exist on the other, such as probably would never have occurred in a + fancy bust, where the effort always is to render the two sides of the face as + much alike as possible. There is more fulness about the lower part of the face + than is consistent with the theory of an idealized bust, but is perfectly + consistent with the probabilities of the time of life at which he died, and + perhaps with the effects of the disease of which he died.</p> + <p class="dgp">All this I set down as it was related to me by our guide; it had + a very plausible and probable sound, and I was bent on believing, which is a + great matter in faith of all kinds.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is something in favor of the supposition that this is an + authentic likeness, that it was erected in his own native town within seven + years of his death, among people, therefore, who must have preserved the + recollection of his personal appearance. After the manner of those times it was + originally painted, the hair and beard of an auburn color, the eyes hazel, and + the dress was represented as consisting of a scarlet doublet, over which was a + loose black gown without sleeves; all which looks like an attempt to preserve + an exact likeness. The inscription upon it, also, seemed to show that there + were some in the world by no means unaware of who and what he was.</p> + <p class="dgp">Next to the tomb of Shakspeare in the chancel is buried his + favorite daughter, over whom somebody has placed the following quaint + inscription:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Witty above her sex, but that's not all,</p> + <p class="l">Wise to salvation was good Mistress Hall.</p> + <p class="l">Something of Shakspeare was in that, but this</p> + <p class="l">Wholly of him, with whom she is now in bliss;</p> + <p class="l">Then, passenger, hast ne'er a tear,</p> + <p class="l">To weep with her that wept with, all—</p> + <p class="l">That wept, yet set herself to cheer</p> + <p class="l">Them, up with comfort's cordial?</p> + <p class="l">Her lore shall live, her mercy spread,</p> + <p class="l">When thou hast ne'er a tear to shed."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">This good Mistress Hall, it appears, was Shakspeare's + favorite among his three children. His son, Hamet, died at twelve years of age. + His daughter Judith, as appears from some curious document still extant, could + not write her own name, but signed with her mark; so that the "wit" of the + family must have concentrated itself in Mistress Hall. To her, in his last + will, which is still extant, Shakspeare bequeathed an amount of houses, lands, + plate, jewels, and other valuables, sufficient to constitute quite a handsome + estate. It would appear, from this, that the poet deemed her not only "wise + unto salvation," but wise in her day and generation, thus intrusting her with + the bulk of his worldly goods.</p> + <p class="dgp">His wife, Ann Hathaway, is buried near by, under the same + pavement. From the slight notice taken of her in the poet's will, it would + appear that there was little love between them. He married her when he was but + eighteen; most likely she was a mere rustic beauty, entirely incapable either + of appreciating or adapting herself to that wide and wonderful mind in its full + development.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to Mistress Hall, though the estate was carefully entailed, + through her, to heirs male through all generations, it was not her good fortune + to become the mother of a long line, for she had only one daughter, who became + Lady Barnard, and in whom, dying childless, the family became extinct. + Shakspeare, like Scott, seems to have had the desire to perpetuate himself by + founding a family with an estate, and the coincidence in the result is + striking. Genius must be its own monument.</p> + <p class="dgp">After we had explored the church we went out to walk about the + place. We crossed the beautiful bridge over the Avon, and thought how lovely + those fields and meadows would look, if they only had sunshine to set them out. + Then we went to the town hall, where we met the mayor, who had kindly called + and offered to show us the place.</p> + <p class="dgp">It seems, in 1768, that Garrick set himself to work in good + earnest to do honor to Shakspeare's memory, by getting up a public + demonstration at Stratford; and the world, through the talents of this actor, + having become alive and enthusiastic, liberal subscriptions were made by the + nobility and gentry, the town hall was handsomely repaired and adorned, and a + statue of Shakspeare, presented by Garrick, was placed in a niche at one end. + Then all the chief men and mighty men of the nation came and testified their + reverence for the poet, by having a general jubilee. A great tent was spread on + the banks of the Avon, where they made speeches and drank wine, and wound up + all with a great dance in the town hall; and so the manes of Shakspeare were + appeased, and his position settled for all generations. The room in the town + hall is a very handsome one, and has pictures of Garrick, and the other + notables who figured on that occasion.</p> + <p class="dgp">After that we were taken to see New Place. "And what is New + Place?" you say; "the house where Shakspeare lived?" Not exactly; but a house + built where his house was. This drawing is taken from an old print, and is + supposed to represent the house as Shakspeare fitted it up.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image24.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">We went out into what was Shakspeare's garden, where we were + shown his mulberry—not the one that he planted though, but a veritable + mulberry planted on the same spot; and then we went back to our hotel very + tired, but having conscientiously performed every jot and tittle of the duty of + good pilgrims.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we sat, in the drizzly evening, over our comfortable tea + table, C—— ventured to intimate pretty decidedly that he considered + the whole thing a bore; whereat I thought I saw a sly twinkle around the eyes + and mouth of our most Christian and patient friend, Joseph Sturge. Mr. S. + laughingly told him that he thought it the greatest exercise of Christian + tolerance, that he should have trailed round in the mud with us all day in our + sightseeing, bearing with our unreasonable raptures. He smiled, and said, + quietly, "I must confess that I was a little pleased that our friend Harriet + was so zealous to see Shakspeare's house, when it wasn't his house, and so + earnest to get sprigs from his mulberry, when it wasn't his mulberry." We were + quite ready to allow the foolishness of the thing, and join the laugh at our + own expense.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to our bed rooms, you must know that all the apartments in + this house are named after different plays of Shakspeare, the name being + printed conspicuously over each door; so that the choosing of our rooms made us + a little sport.</p> + <p class="dgp">"What rooms will you have, gentlemen?" says the pretty chamber + maid.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Rooms," said Mr. S.; "why, what are there to have?"</p> + <p class="dgp">"Well, there's Richard III., and there's Hamlet," says the + girl.</p> + <p class="dgp">"O, Hamlet, by all means," said I; "that was always my favorite. + Can't sleep in Richard III., we should have such bad dreams."</p> + <p class="dgp">"For my part," said C——, "I want All's well that + ends well."</p> + <p class="dgp">"I think," said the chamber maid, hesitating, "the bed in Hamlet + isn't large enough for two. Richard III. is a very nice room, sir."</p> + <p class="dgp">In fact, it became evident that we were foreordained to Richard; + so we resolved to embrace the modern historical view of this subject, which + will before long turn him out a saint, and not be afraid of the muster roll of + ghosts which Shakspeare represented as infesting his apartment.</p> + <p class="dgp">Well, for a wonder, the next morning arose a genuine sunny, + beautiful day. Let the fact be recorded that such things do sometimes occur + even in England. C—— was mollified, and began to recant his + ill-natured heresies of the night before, and went so far as to walk, out of + his own proper motion, to Ann Hathaway's Cottage before breakfast—he + being one of the brethren described by Longfellow,</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Who is gifted with most miraculous powers</p> + <p class="l">Of getting up at all sorts of hours;"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">and therefore he came in to breakfast table with that + serenity of virtuous composure which generally attends those who have been out + enjoying the beauties of nature while their neighbors have been ingloriously + dozing.</p> + <p class="dgp">The walk, he said, was beautiful; the cottage damp, musty, and + fusty; and a supposititious old bedstead, of the age of Queen Elizabeth, which + had been obtruded upon his notice because it <em>might</em> have belonged to + Ann Hathaway's mother, received a special malediction. For my part, my + relic-hunting propensities were not in the slightest degree appeased, but + rather stimulated, by the investigations of the day before.</p> + <p class="dgp">It seemed to me so singular that of such a man there should not + remain one accredited relic! Of Martin Luther, though he lived much earlier, + how many things remain! Of almost any distinguished character how much more is + known than of Shakspeare! There is not, so far as I can discover, an authentic + relic of any thing belonging to him. There are very few anecdotes of his + sayings or doings; no letters, no private memoranda, that should let us into + the secret of what he was personally who has in turns personated all minds. The + very perfection of his dramatic talent has become an impenetrable veil: we can + no more tell from his writings what were his predominant tastes and habits than + we can discriminate among the variety of melodies what are the native notes of + the mocking bird. The only means left us for forming an opinion of what he was + personally are inferences of the most delicate nature from, the slightest + premises.</p> + <p class="dgp">The common idea which has pervaded the world, of a joyous, + roving, somewhat unsettled, and dissipated character, would seem, from many + well-authenticated facts, to be incorrect. The gayeties and dissipations of his + life seem to have been confined to his very earliest days, and to have been the + exuberance of a most extraordinary vitality, bursting into existence with such + force and vivacity that it had not had time to collect itself, and so come to + self-knowledge and control. By many accounts it would appear that the character + he sustained in the last years of his life was that of a judicious, + common-sense sort of man; a discreet, reputable, and religious householder.</p> + <p class="dgp">The inscription on his tomb is worthy of remark, as indicating + the reputation he bore at the time: "<em>Judicio Pylium, genio Socratem, arte + Maronem</em>" (In judgment a Nestor, in genius a Socrates, in art a + Virgil.)</p> + <p class="dgp">The comparison of him in the first place to Nestor, proverbially + famous for practical judgment and virtue of life, next to Socrates, who was a + kind of Greek combination of Dr. Paley and Dr. Franklin, indicates a very + different impression of him from what would generally be expressed of a poet, + certainly what would not have been placed on the grave of an eccentric, erratic + will-o'-the-wisp genius, however distinguished. Moreover, the pious author of + good Mistress Hall's epitaph records the fact of her being "wise to salvation," + as a more especial point of resemblance to her father than even her being + "witty above her sex," and expresses most confident hope of her being with him + in bliss. The Puritan tone of the epitaph, as well as the quality of the verse, + gives reason to suppose that it was not written by one who was seduced into a + tombstone lie by any superfluity of poetic sympathy.</p> + <p class="dgp">The last will of Shakspeare, written by his own hand and still + preserved, shows several things of the man.</p> + <p class="dgp">The introduction is as follows:—</p> + <p class="dgp">"In the name of God. Amen. I, William Shakspeare, at + Stratford-upon-Avon, in the county of Warwick, gentleman, in perfect health and + memory, (God be praised,) do make and ordain this my last will and testament in + manner and form following; that is to say,—</p> + <p class="dgp">"First, I commend my soul into the hands of God my Creator, + hoping, and assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my + Savior, to be made partaker of life everlasting; and my body to the earth, + whereof it is made."</p> + <p class="dgp">The will then goes on to dispose of an amount of houses, lands, + plate, money, jewels, &c., which showed certainly that the poet had + possessed some worldly skill and thrift in accumulation, and to divide them + with a care and accuracy which would indicate that he was by no means of that + dreamy and unpractical habit of mind which cares not what becomes of worldly + goods.</p> + <p class="dgp">We may also infer something of a man's character from the tone + and sentiments of others towards him. Glass of a certain color casts on + surrounding objects a reflection of its own hue, and so the tint of a man's + character returns upon us in the habitual manner in which he is spoken of by + those around him. The common mode of speaking of Shakspeare always savored of + endearment. "Gentle Will" is an expression that seemed oftenest repeated. Ben + Jonson inscribed his funeral verses "To the Memory of <em>my beloved</em> Mr. + William Shakspeare;" he calls him the "sweet swan of Avon." Again, in his lines + under a bust of Shakspeare, he says,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"The figure that thou seest put,</p> + <p class="l">It was for gentle Shakspeare cut."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">In later times Milton, who could have known him only by + tradition, calls him "my Shakspeare," "dear son of memory," and "sweetest + Shakspeare." Now, nobody ever wrote of sweet John Milton, or gentle John + Milton, or gentle Martin Luther, or even sweet Ben Jonson.</p> + <p class="dgp">Rowe says of Shakspeare, "The latter part of his life was spent, + as all men of good sense would wish theirs may be, in ease, retirement, and the + conversation of his friends. His pleasurable wit and good nature engaged him in + the acquaintance, and entitled him to the friendship, of the gentlemen of the + neighborhood." And Dr. Drake says, "He was high in reputation as a poet, + favored by the great and the accomplished, and beloved by all who knew + him."</p> + <p class="dgp">That Shakspeare had religious principle, I infer not merely from + the indications of his will and tombstone, but from those strong evidences of + the working of the religious element which are scattered through his plays. No + man could have a clearer perception of God's authority and man's duty; no one + has expressed more forcibly the strength of God's government, the spirituality + of his requirements, or shown with more fearful power the struggles of the "law + in the members warring against the law of the mind."</p> + <p class="dgp">These evidences, scattered through his plays, of deep religious + struggles, make probable the idea that, in the latter, thoughtful, and tranquil + years of his life, devotional impulses might have settled into habits, and that + the solemn language of his will, in which he professes his faith, in Christ, + was not a mere form. Probably he had all his life, even in his gayest hours, + more real religious principle than the hilarity of his manner would give reason + to suppose. I always fancy he was thinking of himself when he wrote this + character: "For the man doth fear God, howsoever it seem not in him by reason + of some large jests he doth make."</p> + <p class="dgp">Neither is there any foundation for the impression that he was + undervalued in his own times. No literary man of his day had more success, more + flattering attentions from the great, or reaped more of the substantial fruits + of popularity, in the form of worldly goods. While his contemporary, Ben + Jonson, sick in a miserable alley, is forced to beg, and receives but a + wretched pittance from Charles I., Shakspeare's fortune steadily increases from + year to year. He buys the best place in his native town, and fits it up with + great taste; he offered to lend, on proper security, a sum of money for the use + of the town of Stratford; he added to his estate in Stratford a hundred and + seventy acres of land; he bought half the great and small tithes of Stratford; + and his annual income is estimated to have been what would at the present time + be nearly four thousand dollars.</p> + <p class="dgp">Queen Elizabeth also patronized him after her ordinary fashion + of patronizing literary men,—that is to say, she expressed her gracious + pleasure that he should burn incense to her, and pay his own bills: economy was + not one of the least of the royal graces. The Earl of Southampton patronized + him in a more material fashion.</p> + <p class="dgp">Queen Elizabeth even so far condescended to the poet as to + perform certain hoidenish tricks while he was playing on the stage, to see if + she could not disconcert his speaking by the majesty of her royal presence. The + poet, who was performing the part of King Henry IV., took no notice of her + motions, till, in order to bring him to a crisis, she dropped her glove at his + feet; whereat he picked it up, and presented it her, improvising these two + lines, as if they had been a part of the play:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"And though, now bent on this high embassy,</p> + <p class="l">Yet stoop we to take up our cousin's glove."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">I think this anecdote very characteristic of them both; it + seems to me it shows that the poet did not so absolutely crawl in the dust + before her, as did almost all the so called men of her court; though he did + certainly flatter her after a fashion in which few queens can be flattered. His + description of the belligerent old Gorgon as the "Fair Vestal throned by the + West" seems like the poetry and fancy of the beautiful Fairy Queen wasted upon + the half-brute clown:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Come, sit thee down upon this flowery bed,</p> + <p class="l">While I thy amiable cheeks do coy,</p> + <p class="l">And stick musk roses in thy sleek, smooth, head,</p> + <p class="l">And kiss thy fair, large ears, my gentle joy."</p> + </div> + <p class="dgp">Elizabeth's understanding and appreciation of Shakspeare was + much after the fashion of Nick Bottom's of the Fairy Queen. I cannot but + believe that the men of genius who employed their powers in celebrating this + most repulsive and disagreeable woman must sometimes have comforted themselves + by a good laugh in private.</p> + <p class="dgp">In order to appreciate Shakspeare's mind from his plays, we must + discriminate what expressed the gross tastes of his age, and what he wrote to + please himself. The Merry Wives of Windsor was a specimen of what he wrote for + the "Fair Vestal;" a commentary on the delicacy of her maiden meditations. The + Midsummer Night's Dream he wrote from his own inner dream world.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the morning we took leave of our hotel. In leaving we were + much touched with the simple kindliness of the people of the house. The + landlady and her daughters came to bid us farewell, with much feeling; and the + former begged my acceptance of a bead purse, knit by one of her daughters, she + said, during the winter evenings while they were reading Uncle Tom. In this + town one finds the simple-hearted, kindly English people corresponding to the + same class which we see in our retired New England towns. We received many + marks of kindness from different residents in Stratford; in the expression of + them, they appreciated and entered into our desire for privacy with a delicacy + which touched us sensibly.</p> + <p class="dgp">We had little time to look about us to see Stratford in the + sunshine. So we went over to a place on the banks of the Avon, where, it was + said, we could gain a very perfect view of the church. The remembrance of this + spot is to me like a very pleasant dream. The day was bright, the air was soft + and still, as we walked up and down the alleys of a beautiful garden that + extended quite to the church; the rooks were dreamily cawing, and wheeling in + dark, airy circles round the old buttresses and spire. A funeral train had come + into the graveyard, and the passing bell was tolling. A thousand undefined + emotions struggled in my mind.</p> + <p class="dgp">That loving heart, that active fancy, that subtile, elastic + power of appreciating and expressing all phases, all passions of humanity, are + they breathed out on the wind? are they spent like the lightning? are they + exhaled like the breath of flowers? or are they still living, still active? and + if so, where and how? Is it reserved for us, in that "undiscovered country" + which he spoke of, ever to meet the great souls whose breath has kindled our + souls?</p> + <p class="dgp">I think we forget the consequences of our own belief in + immortality, and look on the ranks of prostrate dead as a mower on fields of + prostrate flowers, forgetting that activity is an essential of souls, and that + every soul which has passed away from this world must ever since have been + actively developing those habits of mind and modes of feeling which it began + here.</p> + <p class="dgp">The haughty, cruel, selfish Elizabeth, and all the great men of + her court, are still living and acting somewhere; but where? For my part I am + often reminded, when dwelling on departed genius, of Luther's ejaculation for + his favorite classic poet: "I hope God will have mercy on such."</p> + <p class="dgp">We speak of the glory of God as exhibited in natural landscape + making; what is it, compared with the glory of God as shown in the making of + souls, especially those souls which seem to be endowed with a creative power + like his own?</p> + <p class="dgp">There seems, strictly speaking, to be only two classes of + souls—the creative and the receptive. Now, these creators seem to me to + have a beauty and a worth about them entirely independent of their moral + character. That ethereal power which shows itself in Greek sculpture and Gothic + architecture, in Rubens, Shakspeare, and Mozart, has a quality to me + inexpressibly admirable and lovable. We may say, it is true, that there is no + moral excellence in it; but none the less do we admire it. God has made us so + that we cannot help loving it; our souls go forth to it with an infinite + longing, nor can that longing be condemned. That mystic quality that exists in + these souls is a glimpse and intimation of what exists in Him in full + perfection. If we remember this we shall not lose ourselves in admiration of + worldly genius, but be led by it to a better understanding of what He is, of + whom all the glories of poetry and art are but symbols and shadows.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_28" name="toc_28"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XI</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear + H.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">From Stratford we drove to Warwick, (or "Warrick," as they call + it here.) This town stands on a rocky hill on the banks of the Avon, and is + quite a considerable place, for it returns two members to Parliament, and has + upwards of ten thousand inhabitants; and also has some famous manufactories of + wool combing and spinning. But what we came to see was the castle. We drove up + to the Warwick Arms, which is the principal hotel in the place; and, finding + that we were within the hours appointed for exhibition, we went + immediately.</p> + <p class="dgp">With my head in a kind of historical mist, full of images of + York and Lancaster, and Red and White Roses, and Warwick the king maker, I + looked up to the towers and battlements of the old castle. We went in through a + passage way cut in solid rock, about twenty feet deep, and I should think fifty + long. These walls were entirely covered with ivy, hanging down like green + streamers; gentle and peaceable pennons these are, waving and whispering that + the old war times are gone.</p> + <p class="dgp">At the end of this passage there is a drawbridge over what was + formerly the moat, but which is now grassed and planted with shrubbery. Up over + our heads we saw the great iron teeth of the portcullis. A rusty old giant it + seemed up there, like Pope and Pagan in Pilgrim's Progress, finding no scope + for himself in these peaceable times.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image25.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">When we came fairly into the court yard of the castle, a scene + of magnificent beauty opened before us. I cannot describe it minutely. The + principal features are the battlements, towers, and turrets of the old feudal + castle, encompassed by grounds on which has been expended all that princely art + of landscape gardening for which England is famous—leafy thickets, + magnificent trees, openings, and vistas of verdure, and wide sweeps of grass, + short, thick, and vividly green, as the velvet moss we sometimes see growing on + rocks in New England. Grass is an art and a science in England—it is an + institution. The pains that are taken in sowing, tending, cutting, clipping, + rolling, and otherwise nursing and coaxing it, being seconded by the misty + breath and often falling tears of the climate, produce results which must be + seen to be appreciated.</p> + <p class="dgp">So again of trees in England. Trees here are an order of + nobility; and they wear their crowns right kingly. A few years ago, when Miss + Sedgwick was in this country, while admiring some splendid trees in a + nobleman's park, a lady standing by said to her encouragingly, "O, well, I + suppose your trees in America will be grown up after a while!" Since that time + another style of thinking of America has come up, and the remark that I most + generally hear made is, "O, I suppose we cannot think of showing you any thing + in the way of trees, coming as you do from America!" Throwing out of account, + however, the gigantic growth of our western river bottoms, where I have seen + sycamore trunks twenty feet in diameter—leaving out of account, I say, + all this mammoth arboria, these English parks have trees as fine and as + effective, of their kind, as any of ours; and when I say their trees are an + order of nobility, I mean that they pay a reverence to them such as their + magnificence deserves. Such elms as adorn the streets of New Haven, or overarch + the meadows of Andover, would in England be considered as of a value which no + money could represent; no pains, no expense would be spared to preserve their + life and health; they would never be shot dead by having gas pipes laid under + them, as they have been in some of our New England towns; or suffered to be + devoured by canker worms for want of any amount of money spent in their + defence.</p> + <p class="dgp">Some of the finest trees in this place are magnificent cedars of + Lebanon, which bring to mind the expression in Psalms, "Excellent as the + cedars." They are the very impersonation of kingly majesty, and are fitted to + grace the old feudal stronghold of Warwick the king maker. These trees, + standing as they do amid magnificent sweeps and undulations of lawn, throwing + out their mighty arms with such majestic breadth and freedom of outline, are + themselves a living, growing, historical epic. Their seed was brought from Holy + Land in the old days of the crusades; and a hundred legends might be made up of + the time, date, and occasion of their planting. These crusades have left their + mark every where through Europe, from the cross panel on the doors of common + houses to the oriental touches and arabesques of castles and cathedrals.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the reign of Stephen there was a certain Roger de Newburg, + second Earl of Warwick, who appears to have been an exceedingly active and + public-spirited character; and, besides conquering part of Wales, founded in + this neighborhood various priories and hospitals, among which was the house of + the Templars, and a hospital for lepers. He made several pilgrimages to Holy + Land; and so I think it as likely as most theories that he ought to have the + credit of these cedars.</p> + <p class="dgp">These Earls of Warwick appear always to have been remarkably + stirring men in their day and generation, and foremost in whatever was going on + in the world, whether political or religious. To begin, there was Guy, Earl of + Warwick, who lived somewhere in the times of the old dispensation, before King + Arthur, and who distinguished himself, according to the fashion of those days, + by killing giants and various colored dragons, among which a green one + especially figures. It appears that he slew also a notable dun cow, of a kind + of mastodon breed, which prevailed in those early days, which was making great + havoc in the neighborhood. In later times, when the giants, dragons, and other + animals of that sort were somewhat brought under, we find the Earls of Warwick + equally busy burning and slaying to the right and left; now crusading into + Palestine, and now fighting the French, who were a standing resort for activity + when nothing else was to be done; with great versatility diversifying these + affairs with pilgrimages to the holy sepulchre, and founding monasteries and + hospitals. One stout earl, after going to Palestine and laying about him like a + very dragon for some years, brought home a live Saracen king to London, and had + him baptized and made a Christian of, <em>vi et armis</em>.</p> + <p class="dgp">During the scuffle of the Roses, it was a Warwick, of course, + who was uppermost. Stout old Richard, the king maker, set up first one party + and then the other, according to his own sovereign pleasure, and showed as much + talent at fighting on both sides, and keeping the country in an uproar, as the + modern politicians of America.</p> + <p class="dgp">When the times of the Long Parliament and the Commonwealth came, + an Earl of Warwick was high admiral of England, and fought valiantly for the + Commonwealth, using the navy on the popular side; and his grandson married the + youngest daughter of Oliver Cromwell. When the royal family was to be restored, + an Earl of Warwick was one of the six lords who were sent to Holland for + Charles II. The earls of this family have been no less distinguished for + movements which have favored the advance of civilization and letters than for + energy in the battle field. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth an Earl of Warwick + founded the History Lecture at Cambridge, and left a salary for the professor. + This same earl was general patron of letters and arts, assisting many men of + talents, and was a particular and intimate friend of Sir Philip Sidney.</p> + <p class="dgp">What more especially concerns us as New Englanders is, that an + earl of this house was the powerful patron and protector of New England during + the earlier years of our country. This was Robert Greville, the high admiral of + England before alluded to, and ever looked upon as a protector of the Puritans. + Frequent allusion is made to him in Winthrop's Journal as performing various + good offices for them.</p> + <p class="dgp">The first grant of Connecticut was made to this earl, and by him + assigned to Lord Say and Seal, and Lord Brooke. The patronage which this earl + extended to the Puritans is more remarkable because in principle he was + favorable to Episcopacy. It appears to have been prompted by a chivalrous sense + of justice; probably the same which influenced old Guy of Warwick in the King + Arthur times, of whom the ancient chronicler says, "This worshipful knight, in + his acts of warre, ever consydered what parties had wronge, and therto would he + drawe."</p> + <p class="dgp">The present earl has never taken a share in public or political + life, but resided entirely on his estate, devoting himself to the improvement + of his ground and tenants. He received the estate much embarrassed, and the + condition of the tenantry was at that time quite depressed. By the devotion of + his life it has been rendered one of the most flourishing and prosperous + estates in this part of England. I have heard him spoken of as a very + exemplary, excellent man. He is now quite advanced, and has been for some time + in failing health. He sent our party a very kind and obliging message, desiring + that we would consider ourselves fully at liberty to visit any part of the + grounds or castle, there being always some reservation as to what tourists may + visit.</p> + <p class="dgp">We caught glimpses of him once or twice, supported by + attendants, as he was taking the air in one of the walks of the grounds, and + afterwards wheeled about in a garden chair.</p> + <p class="dgp">The family has thrice died out in the direct line, and been + obliged to resuscitate through collateral branches; but it seems the blood + holds good notwithstanding. As to honors there is scarcely a possible + distinction in the state or army that has not at one time or other been the + property of this family.</p> + <p class="dgp">Under the shade of these lofty cedars they have sprung and + fallen, an hereditary line of princes. One cannot but feel, in looking on these + majestic trees, with the battlements, turrets, and towers of the old castle + every where surrounding him, and the magnificent parks and lawns opening + through dreamy vistas of trees into what seems immeasurable distance, the force + of the soliloquy which Shakspeare puts into the mouth of the dying old king + maker, as he lies breathing out his soul in the dust and blood of the battle + field:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Thus yields the cedar to the axe's edge,</p> + <p class="l">Whose arms gave shelter to the princely eagle,</p> + <p class="l">Under whose shade the rampant lion slept;</p> + <p class="l">Whose top branch overpeered Jove's spreading tree,</p> + <p class="l">And kept low shrubs from, winter's powerful wind.</p> + <p class="l">These eyes, that now are dimmed with death's black veil,</p> + <p class="l">Have been as piercing as the midday sun</p> + <p class="l">To search, the secret treasons of the world:</p> + <p class="l">The wrinkles in my brow, now filled with blood,</p> + <p class="l">Were likened oft to kingly sepulchres;</p> + <p class="l">For who lived king but I could dig his grave?</p> + <p class="l">And who durst smile when Warwick bent his brow?</p> + <p class="l">Lo, now my glory smeared in dust and blood!</p> + <p class="l">My parks, my walks, my manors that I had,</p> + <p class="l">Even now forsake me; and of all my lands</p> + <p class="l">Is nothing left me but my body's length!</p> + <p class="l">Why, what is pomp, rule, reign, but earth and dust?</p> + <p class="l">And live we how we can, yet die we must."</p> + </div> + <p class="dgp">During Shakspeare's life Warwick was in the possession of + Greville, the friend of Sir Philip Sidney, and patron of arts and letters. It + is not, therefore, improbable that Shakspeare might, in his times, often have + been admitted to wander through the magnificent grounds, and it is more than + probable that the sight of these majestic cedars might have suggested the noble + image in this soliloquy. It is only about eight miles from Stratford, within + the fair limits of a comfortable pedestrian excursion, and certainly could not + but have been an object of deep interest to such a mind as his.</p> + <p class="dgp">I have described the grounds first, but, in fact, we did not + look at them first, but went into the house where we saw not only all the state + rooms, but, through the kindness of the noble proprietor, many of those which + are not commonly exhibited; a bewildering display of magnificent apartments, + pictures, gems, vases, arms and armor, antiques, all, in short, that the wealth + of a princely and powerful family had for centuries been accumulating.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image26.png" + alt="" /></p> + <p class="dgp">The great hall of the castle is sixty-two feet in length and + forty in breadth, ornamented with a richly carved Gothic roof, in which figures + largely the family cognizance of the bear and ragged staff. There is a + succession of shields, on which are emblazoned the quarterings of successive + Earls of Warwick. The sides of the wall are ornamented with lances, corselets, + shields, helmets, and complete suits of armor, regularly arranged as in an + armory. Here I learned what the buff coat is, which had so often puzzled me in + reading Scott's descriptions, as there were several hanging up here. It seemed + to be a loose doublet of chamois leather, which was worn under the armor, and + protected the body from its harshness.</p> + <p class="dgp">Here we saw the helmet of Cromwell, a most venerable relic. + Before the great, cavernous fireplace was piled up on a sled a quantity of yew + tree wood. The rude simplicity of thus arranging it on the polished floor of + this magnificent apartment struck me as quite singular. I suppose it is a + continuation of some ancient custom.</p> + <p class="dgp">Opening from this apartment on either side are suits of rooms, + the whole series being three hundred and thirty-three feet in length. These + rooms are all hung with pictures, and studded with antiques and curiosities of + immense value. There is, first, the red drawing room, and then the cedar + drawing room, then the gilt drawing room, the state bed room, the boudoir, + &c., &c., hung with pictures by Vandyke, Rubens, Guido, Sir Joshua + Reynolds, Paul Veronese, any one of which would require days of study; of + course, the casual glance that one could give them in a rapid survey would not + amount to much.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were shown one table of gems and lapis lazuli, which cost + what would be reckoned a comfortable fortune in New England. For matters of + this kind I have little sympathy. The canvas, made vivid by the soul of an + inspired artist, tells me something of God's power in creating that soul; but a + table of gems is in no wise interesting to me, except so far as it is pretty in + itself.</p> + <p class="dgp">I walked to one of the windows of these lordly apartments, and + while the company were examining buhl cabinets, and all other deliciousness of + the place, I looked down the old gray walls into the amber waters of the Avon, + which flows at their base, and thought that the most beautiful of all was + without. There is a tiny fall that crosses the river just above here, whose + waters turn the wheels of an old mossy mill, where for centuries the family + grain has been ground. The river winds away through the beautiful parks and + undulating foliage, its soft, grassy banks dotted here and there with sheep and + cattle, and you catch farewell gleams and glitters of it as it loses itself + among the trees.</p> + <p class="dgp">Gray moss, wall flowers, ivy, and grass were growing here and + there out of crevices in the castle walls, as I looked down, sometimes trailing + their rippling tendrils in the river. This vegetative propensity of walls is + one of the chief graces of these old buildings.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the state bed room were a bed and furnishings of rich, + crimson velvet, once belonging to Queen Anne, and presented by George III. to + the Warwick family. The walls are hung with Brussels tapestry, representing the + gardens of Versailles as they were at the time. The chimney-piece, which is + sculptured of verde antique and white marble, supports two black marble vases + on its mantel. Over the mantel-piece is a full-length portrait of Queen Anne, + in a rich brocade dress, wearing the collar and jewels of the Garter, bearing + in one hand a sceptre, and in the other a globe. There are two splendid buhl + cabinets in the room, and a table of costly stone from Italy; it is mounted on + a richly carved and gilt stand.</p> + <p class="dgp">The boudoir, which adjoins, is hung with pea-green satin and + velvet. In this room is one of the most authentic portraits of Henry VIII., by + Holbein, in which that selfish, brutal, unfeeling tyrant is veritably set + forth, with all the gold and gems which, in his day, blinded mankind; his fat, + white hands were beautifully painted. Men have found out Henry VIII. by this + time; he is a dead sinner, and nothing more is to be expected of him, and so he + gets a just award; but the disposition which bows down and worships any thing + of any character in our day which is splendid and successful, and excuses all + moral delinquencies, if they are only available, is not a whit better than that + which cringed before Henry.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the same room was a boar hunt, by Rubens, a disagreeable + subject, but wrought with wonderful power. There were several other pictures of + Holbein's in this room; one of Martin Luther.</p> + <p class="dgp">We passed through a long corridor, whose sides were lined with + pictures, statues, busts, &c. Out of the multitude, three particularly + interested me; one was a noble but melancholy bust of the Black Prince, + beautifully chiselled in white marble; another was a plaster cast, said to have + been taken of the face of Oliver Cromwell immediately after death. The face had + a homely strength amounting almost to coarseness. The evidences of its + genuineness appear in glancing at it; every thing is authentic, even to the + wart on his lip; no one would have imagined such a one, but the expression was + noble and peaceful, bringing to mind the oft-quoted words,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"After life's fitful fever, he sleeps well."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">At the end of the same corridor is a splendid picture of + Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyke, a most masterly performance, and appearing + in its position almost like a reality. Poor Charles had rather hard measure, it + always seemed to me. He simply did as all other princes had done before him; + that is to say, he lied steadily, invariably, and conscientiously, in every + instance where he thought he could gain any thing by it, just as Charles V., + and Francis IV., and Catharine de Medicis, and Henry VIII., and Elizabeth, and + James, and all good royal folks had always done; and lo! <em>he</em> must lose + his head for it. His was altogether a more gentlemanly and respectable + performance than that of Henry, not wanting in a sort of ideal magnificence, + which his brutal predecessor, or even his shambling old father never dreamed + of. But so it is; it is not always on those who are sinners above all men that + the tower of Siloam falls, but only on those who happen to be under it when its + time comes. So I intend to cherish a little partiality for gentlemanly, + magnificent Charles I.; and certainly one could get no more splendid idea of + him than by seeing him stately, silent, and melancholy on his white horse, at + the end of this long corridor. There he sits, facing the calm, stony, sleeping + face of Oliver, and neither question or reply passes between them.</p> + <p class="dgp">From this corridor we went into the chapel, whose Gothic + windows, filled with rich, old painted glass, cast a many-colored light over + the oak-carved walls and altar-piece. The ceiling is of fine, old oak, wrought + with the arms of the family. The window over the altar is the gift of the Earl + of Essex. This room is devoted to the daily religious worship of the family. It + has been the custom of the present earl in former years to conduct the + devotions of the family here himself.</p> + <p class="dgp">About this time my head and eyes came to that point which + Solomon intimates to be not commonly arrived at by mortals—when the eye + is satisfied with seeing. I remember a confused ramble through apartment after + apartment, but not a single thing in them, except two pictures of Salvator + Rosa's, which I thought extremely ugly, and was told, as people always are when + they make such declarations, that the difficulty was entirely in myself, and + that if I would study them two or three months in faith, I should perceive + something very astonishing. This may be, but it holds equally good of the coals + of an evening fire, or the sparks on a chimney back; in either of which, by + resolute looking, and some imagination, one can see any thing he chooses. I + utterly distrust this process, by which old black pictures are looked into + shape; but then I have nothing to lose, being in the court of the Gentiles in + these matters, and obstinately determined not to believe in any real presence + in art which I cannot perceive by my senses.</p> + <p class="dgp">After having examined all the upper stories, we went down into + the vaults underneath—vaults once grim and hoary, terrible to captives + and feudal enemies, now devoted to no purpose more grim than that of coal + cellars and wine vaults. In Oliver's time, a regiment was quartered there: they + are extensive enough, apparently, for an army.</p> + <p class="dgp">The kitchen and its adjuncts are of magnificent dimensions, and + indicate an amplitude in the way of provision for good cheer worthy an ancient + house; and what struck me as a still better feature was a library of sound, + sensible, historical, and religious works for the servants.</p> + <p class="dgp">We went into the beer vaults, where a man drew beer into a long + black jack, such as Scott describes. It is a tankard, made of black leather, I + should think half a yard deep. He drew the beer from a large hogshead, and + offered us some in a glass. It looked very clear, but, on tasting, I found it + so exceedingly bitter that it struck me there would be small virtue for me in + abstinence.</p> + <p class="dgp">In passing up to go out of the house, we met in the entry two + pleasant-looking young women, dressed in white muslin. As they passed us, a + door opened where a table was handsomely set out, at which quite a number of + well-dressed people were seating themselves. I withdrew my eyes immediately, + fearing lest I had violated some privacy. Our conductor said to us, "That is + the upper servants' dining room."</p> + <p class="dgp">Once in the yard again, we went to see some of the older parts + of the building. The oldest of these, Caesar's Tower, which is said to go back + to the time of the Romans, is not now shown to visitors. Beneath it is a dark, + damp dungeon, where prisoners used to be confined, the walls of which are + traced all over with inscriptions and rude drawings.</p> + <p class="dgp">Then you are conducted to Guy's Tower, named, I suppose, after + the hero of the green dragon and dun cow. Here are five tiers of guard rooms, + and by the ascent of a hundred and thirty-three steps you reach the + battlements, where you gain a view of the whole court and grounds, as well as + of the beautiful surrounding landscape.</p> + <p class="dgp">In coming down from this tower, we somehow or other got upon the + ramparts, which connect it with the great gate. We walked on the wall four + abreast, and played that we were knights and ladies of the olden time, walking + on the ramparts. And I picked a bough from an old pine tree that grew over our + heads; it much resembled our American yellow pitch pine.</p> + <p class="dgp">Then we went down and crossed the grounds to the greenhouse, to + see the famous Warwick vase. The greenhouse is built with a Gothic stone front, + situated on a fine point in the landscape. And there, on a pedestal, surrounded + by all manner of flowering shrubs, stands this celebrated antique. It is of + white marble, and was found at the bottom of a lake near Adrian's villa, in + Italy. They say that it holds a hundred and thirty-six gallons; constructed, I + suppose, in the roistering old drinking times of the Roman emperors, when men + seem to have discovered that the grand object for which they were sent into + existence was to perform the functions of wine skins. It is beautifully + sculptured with grape leaves, and the skin and claws of the panther—these + latter certainly not an inappropriate emblem of the god of wine, beautiful, but + dangerous.</p> + <p class="dgp">Well, now it was all done. Merodach Baladan had not a more + perfect <em>exposé</em> of the riches of Hezekiah than we had of the + glories of Warwick. One always likes to see the most perfect thing of its kind; + and probably this is the most perfect specimen of the feudal ages yet remaining + in England.</p> + <p class="dgp">As I stood with Joseph Sturge under the old cedars of Lebanon, + and watched the multitude of tourists, and parties of pleasure, who were + thronging the walks, I said to him, "After all, this establishment amounts to a + public museum and pleasure grounds for the use of the people." He assented. + "And," said I, "you English people like these things; you like these old + magnificent seats, kept up by old families." "That is what I tell them," said + Joseph Sturge. "I tell them there is no danger in enlarging the suffrage, for + the people would not break up these old establishments if they could." On that + point, of course, I had no means of forming an opinion.</p> + <p class="dgp">One cannot view an institution so unlike any thing we have in + our own country without having many reflections excited, for one of these + estates may justly be called an institution; it includes within itself all the + influence on a community of a great model farm, of model housekeeping, of a + general museum of historic remains, and of a gallery of fine arts.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is a fact that all these establishments through England are, + at certain fixed hours, thrown open for the inspection of whoever may choose to + visit them, with no other expense than the gratuity which custom requires to be + given to the servant who shows them. I noticed, as we passed from one part of + the ground to another, that our guides changed—one part apparently being + the perquisite of one servant, and one of another. Many of the servants who + showed them appeared to be superannuated men, who probably had this post as one + of the dignities and perquisites of their old age.</p> + <p class="dgp">The influence of these estates on the community cannot but be in + many respects beneficial, and should go some way to qualify the prejudice with + which republicans are apt to contemplate any thing aristocratic; for although + the legal title to these things inheres in but one man, yet in a very important + sense they belong to the whole community, indeed, to universal humanity. It may + be very undesirable and unwise to wish to imitate these institutions in + America, and yet it may be illiberal to undervalue them as they stand in + England. A man would not build a house, in this nineteenth century, on the + pattern of a feudal castle; and yet where the feudal castle is built, surely + its antique grace might plead somewhat in its favor, and it may be better to + accommodate it to modern uses, than to level it, and erect a modern mansion in + its place.</p> + <p class="dgp">Nor, since the world is wide, and now being rapidly united by + steam into one country, does the objection to these things, on account of the + room they take up, seem so great as formerly. In the million of square miles of + the globe there is room enough for all sorts of things.</p> + <p class="dgp">With such reflections the lover of the picturesque may comfort + himself, hoping that he is not sinning against the useful in his admiration of + the beautiful.</p> + <p class="dgp">One great achievement of the millennium, I trust, will be in + uniting these two elements, which have ever been contending. There was great + significance in the old Greek fable which represented Venus as the + divinely-appointed helpmeet of Vulcan, and yet always quarrelling with him.</p> + <p class="dgp">We can scarce look at the struggling, earth-bound condition of + useful labor through the world without joining in the beautiful aspiration of + our American poet,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Surely, the wiser time shall come</p> + <p class="l">When this fine overplus of might,</p> + <p class="l">No longer sullen, slow, and dumb,</p> + <p class="l">Shall leap to music and to light.</p> + </div> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">In that new childhood of the world</p> + <p class="l">Life of itself shall dance and play,</p> + <p class="l">Fresh blood through Time's shrunk veins be hurled,</p> + <p class="l">And labor meet delight half way."<a href="#note_13"><span + class="footnoteref">13</span></a></p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">In the new state of society which we are trying to found in + America, it must be our effort to hasten the consummation. These great estates + of old countries may keep it for their share of the matter to work out perfect + models, while we will seize the ideas thus elaborated, and make them the + property of the million.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we were going out, we stopped a little while at the porter's + lodge to look at some relics.</p> + <p class="dgp">Now, I dare say that you have been thinking, all the while, that + these stories about the wonderful Guy are a sheer fabrication, or, to use a + convenient modern term, a myth. Know, then, that the identical armor belonging + to him is still preserved here; to wit, the sword, about seven feet long, a + shield, helmet, breastplate, and tilting pole, together with his porridge pot, + which holds one hundred and twenty gallons, and a large fork, as they call it, + about three feet long; I am inclined to think this must have been his + toothpick! His sword weighs twenty pounds.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is, moreover, a rib of the mastodon cow which he killed, + hung up for the terror of all refractory beasts of that name in modern + days.</p> + <p class="dgp">Furthermore, know, then, that there are authentic documents in + the Ashmolean Museum, at Oxford, showing that the family run back to within + four years after the birth of Christ, so that there is abundance of time for + them to have done a little of almost every thing. It appears that they have + been always addicted to exploits, since we read of one of them, soon after the + Christian era, encountering a giant, who ran upon him with a tree which he had + snapped off for the purpose, for it seems giants were not nice in the choice of + weapons; but the chronicler says, "The Lord had grace with him, and overcame + the giant," and in commemoration of this event the family introduced into their + arms the ragged staff.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is recorded of another of the race, that he was one of seven + children born at a birth, and that all the rest of his brothers and sisters + were, by enchantment, turned into swans with gold collars. This remarkable case + occurred in the time of the grandfather of Sir Guy, and of course, if we + believe this, we shall find no difficulty in the case of the cow, or any thing + else.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is a very scarce book in the possession of a gentleman of + Warwick, written by one Dr. John Kay, or caius, in which he gives an account of + the rare and peculiar animals of England in 1552. In this he mentioned seeing + the bones of the head and the vertebrae of the neck of an enormous animal at + Warwick Castle. He states that the shoulder blade was hung up by chains from + the north gate of Coventry, and that a rib of the same animal was hanging up in + the chapel of Guy, Earl of Warwick, and that the people fancied it to be the + rib of a cow which haunted a ditch near Coventry, and did injury to many + persons; and he goes on to imagine that this may be the bone of a bonasus or a + urus. He says, "It is probable many animals of this kind formerly lived in our + England, being of old an island full of woods and forests, because even in our + boyhood the horns of these animals were in common use at the table." The story + of Sir Guy is furthermore quite romantic, and contains some circumstances very + instructive to all ladies. For the chronicler asserts, "that Dame Felye, + daughter and heire to Erle Rohand, for her beauty called Fely le Belle, or + Felys the Fayre, by true enheritance, was Countesse of Warwyke, and lady and + wyfe to the most victoriouse Knight, Sir Guy, to whom in his woing tyme she + made greate straungeres, and caused him, for her sake, to put himself in meny + greate distresses, dangers, and perills; but when they were wedded, and b'en + but a little season together, he departed from her, to her greate hevynes, and + never was conversant with her after, to her understandinge." That this may not + appear to be the result of any revengeful spirit on the part of Sir Guy, the + chronicler goes on further to state his motives—that, after his marriage, + considering what he had done for a woman's sake, he thought to spend the other + part of his life for God's sake, and so departed from his lady in pilgrim + weeds, which raiment he kept to his life's end. After wandering about a good + many years he settled in a hermitage, in a place not far from the castle, + called Guy's Cliff, and when his lady distributed food to beggars at the castle + gate, was in the habit of coming among them to receive alms, without making + himself known to her. It states, moreover, that two days before his death an + angel informed him of the time of his departure, and that his lady would die a + fortnight after him, which happening accordingly, they were both buried in the + grave together. A romantic cavern, at the place called Guy's Cliff, is shown as + the dwelling of the recluse. The story is a curious relic of the religious + ideas of the times.</p> + <p class="dgp">On our way from the castle we passed by Guy's Cliff, which is at + present the seat of the Hon. C.B. Percy. The establishment looked beautifully + from the road, as we saw it up a long avenue of trees; it is one of the places + travellers generally examine, but as we were bound for Kenilworth we were + content to take it on trust. It is but a short drive from there to Kenilworth. + We got there about the middle of the afternoon. Kenilworth has been quite as + extensive as Warwick, though now entirely gone to ruins. I believe Oliver + Cromwell's army have the credit of finally dismantling it. Cromwell seems + literally to have left his mark on his generation, for I never saw a ruin in + England when I did not hear that he had something to do with it. Every broken + arch and ruined battlement seemed always to find a sufficient account of itself + by simply enunciating the word Cromwell. And when we see how much the Puritans + arrayed against themselves all the æsthetic principles of our nature, we + can somewhat pardon those who did not look deeper than the surface, for the + prejudice with which they regarded the whole movement; a movement, however, of + which we, and all which is most precious to us, are the lineal descendants and + heirs.</p> + <p class="dgp">We wandered over the ruins, which are very extensive, and which + Scott, with his usual vivacity and accuracy, has restored and repeopled. We + climbed up into Amy Robsart's chamber; we scrambled into one of the arched + windows of what was formerly the great dining hall, where Elizabeth feasted in + the midst of her lords and ladies, and where every stone had rung to the sound + of merriment and revelry. The windows are broken out; it is roofless and + floorless, waving and rustling with pendent ivy, and vocal with the song of + hundreds of little birds.</p> + <p class="dgp">We wandered from room to room, looking up and seeing in the + walls the desolate fireplaces, tier over tier, the places where the beams of + the floors had gone into the walls, and still the birds continued their singing + every where.</p> + <p class="dgp">Nothing affected me more than this ceaseless singing and + rejoicing of birds in these old gray ruins. They seemed so perfectly joyous and + happy amid the desolations, so airy and fanciful in their bursts of song, so + ignorant and careless of the deep meaning of the gray desolation around them, + that I could not but be moved. It was nothing to them how these stately, + sculptured walls became lonely and ruinous, and all the weight of a thousand + thoughts and questionings which arise to us is never even dreamed by them. They + sow not, neither do they reap, but their heavenly Father feeds them; and so the + wilderness and the desolate place is glad in them, and they are glad in the + wilderness and desolate place.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was a beautiful conception, this making of birds. Shelley + calls them "imbodied joys;" and Christ says, that amid the vaster ruins of + man's desolation, ruins more dreadfully suggestive than those of sculptured + frieze and architrave, we can yet live a bird's life of unanxious joy; or, as + Martin Luther beautifully paraphrases it, "We can be like a bird, that sits + singing on his twig and lets God think for him."</p> + <p class="dgp">The deep consciousness that we are ourselves ruined, and that + this world is a desolation more awful, and of more sublime material, and + wrought from stuff of higher temper than ever was sculptured in hall or + cathedral, this it must be that touches such deep springs of sympathy in the + presence of ruins. We, too, are desolate, shattered, and scathed; there are + traceries and columns of celestial workmanship; there are heaven-aspiring + arches, splendid colonnades and halls, but fragmentary all. Yet above us bends + an all-pitying Heaven, and spiritual voices and callings in our hearts, like + these little singing birds, speak of a time when almighty power shall take + pleasure in these stones, and favor the dust thereof.</p> + <p class="dgp">We sat on the top of the strong tower, and looked off into the + country, and talked a good while. Some of the ivy that mantles this building + has a trunk as large as a man's body, and throws out numberless strong arms, + which, interweaving, embrace and interlace half-falling towers, and hold them + up in a living, growing mass of green.</p> + <p class="dgp">The walls of one of the oldest towers are sixteen feet thick. + The lake, which Scott speaks of, is dried up and grown over with rushes. The + former moat presents only a grassy hollow. What was formerly a gate house is + still inhabited by the family who have the care of the building. The land + around the gate house is choicely and carefully laid out, and has high, clipped + hedges of a species of variegated holly.</p> + <p class="dgp">Thus much of old castles and ivy. Farewell to Kenilworth.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center"><img src="images/image27.png" + alt="" /></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_29" name="toc_29"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XII</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + H.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">After leaving Kenilworth we drove to Coventry, where we took the + cars again. This whole ride from Stratford to Warwick, and on to Coventry, + answers more to my ideas of old England than any thing I have seen; it is + considered one of the most beautiful parts of the kingdom. It has quaint old + houses, and a certain air of rural, picturesque quiet, which is very + charming.</p> + <p class="dgp">Coventry is old and queer, with narrow streets and curious + houses, famed for the ancient legend of Godiva, one of those beautiful myths + that grow, like the mistletoe, on the bare branches of history, and which, if + they never were true in the letter, have been a thousand times true in the + spirit.</p> + <p class="dgp">The evening came on raw and chilly, so that we rejoiced to find + ourselves once more in the curtained parlor by the bright, sociable fire.</p> + <p class="dgp">As we were drinking tea Elihu Burritt came in. It was the first + time I had ever seen him, though I had heard a great deal of him from our + friends in Edinburgh. He is a man in middle life, tall and slender, with fair + complexion, blue eyes, an air of delicacy and refinement, and manners of great + gentleness. My ideas of the "Learned Blacksmith" had been of something + altogether more ponderous and peremptory. Elihu has been, for some years, + operating in England and on the continent in a movement which many, in our + half-Christianized times, regard with as much incredulity as the grim, old, + warlike barons did the suspicious imbecilities of reading and writing. The + sword now, as then, seems so much more direct a way to terminate controversies, + that many Christian men, even, cannot conceive how the world is to get along + without it.</p> + <p class="dgp">Burritt's mode of operation has been by the silent organization + of circles of ladies in all the different towns of the United Kingdom, who + raise a certain sum for the diffusion of the principles of peace on earth and + good will to men. Articles, setting forth the evils of war, moral, political, + and social, being prepared, these circles pay for their insertion in all the + principal newspapers of the continent. They have secured to themselves in this + way a continual utterance in France, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, and + Germany; so that from week to week, and month to month, they can insert + articles upon these subjects. Many times the editors insert the articles as + editorial, which still further favors their design. In addition to this, the + ladies of these circles in England correspond with the ladies of similar + circles existing in other countries; and in this way there is a mutual + kindliness of feeling established through these countries.</p> + <p class="dgp">When recently war was threatening between England and France, + through the influence of these societies conciliatory addresses were sent from + many of the principal towns of England to many of the principal towns of + France; and the effect of these measures in allaying irritation and agitation + was very perceptible.</p> + <p class="dgp">Furthermore, these societies are preparing numerous little books + for children, in which the principles of peace, kindness, and mutual + forbearance are constantly set forth, and the evil and unchristian nature of + the mere collision of brute force exemplified in a thousand ways. These tracts + also are reprinted in the other modern languages of Europe, and are becoming a + part of family literature.</p> + <p class="dgp">The object had in view by those in this movement is, the general + disbandment of standing armies and warlike establishments, and the arrangement, + in their place, of some settled system of national arbitration. They suggest + the organization of some tribunal of international law, which shall correspond + to the position of the Supreme Court of the United States with reference to the + several states. The fact that the several states of our Union, though each a + distinct sovereignty, yet agree in this arrangement, is held up as an instance + of its practicability. These ideas are not to be considered entirely + chimerical, if we reflect that commerce and trade are as essentially opposed to + war as is Christianity. War is the death of commerce, manufactures, + agriculture, and the fine arts. Its evil results are always certain and + definite, its good results scattered and accidental. The whole current of + modern society is as much against war as against slavery; and the time must + certainly come when some more rational and humane mode of resolving national + difficulties will prevail.</p> + <p class="dgp">When we ask these reformers how people are to be freed from the + yoke of despotism without war, they answer, "By the diffusion of ideas among + the masses—by teaching the bayonets to think." They say, "If we convince + every individual soldier of a despot's army that war is ruinous, immoral, and + unchristian, we take the instrument out of the tyrant's hand. If each + individual man would refuse to rob and murder for the Emperor of Austria, and + the Emperor of Russia, where would be their power to hold Hungary? What gave + power to the masses in the French revolution, but that the army, pervaded by + new ideas, refused any longer to keep the people down?"</p> + <p class="dgp">These views are daily gaining strength in England. They are + supported by the whole body of the Quakers, who maintain them with that degree + of inflexible perseverance and never-dying activity which have rendered the + benevolent actions of that body so efficient. The object that they are aiming + at is one most certain to be accomplished, infallible as the prediction that + swords are to be beaten into ploughshares, and spears into pruning-hooks, and + that nations shall learn war no more.</p> + <p class="dgp">This movement, small and despised in its origin, has gained + strength from year to year, and now has an effect on the public opinion of + England which is quite perceptible.</p> + <p class="dgp">We spent the evening in talking over these things, and also + various topics relating to the antislavery movement. Mr. Sturge was very + confident that something more was to be done than had ever been done yet, by + combinations for the encouragement of free, in the place of slave-grown, + produce; a question which has, ever since the days of Clarkson, more or less + deeply occupied the minds of abolitionists in England.</p> + <p class="dgp">I should say that Mr. Sturge in his family has for many years + conscientiously forborne the use of any article produced by slave labor. I + could scarcely believe it possible that there could be such an abundance and + variety of all that is comfortable and desirable in the various departments of + household living within these limits. Mr. Sturge presents the subject with very + great force, the more so from the consistency of his example.</p> + <p class="dgp">From what I have since observed, as well as from what they said, + I should imagine that the Quakers generally pursue this course of entire + separation from all connection with slavery, even in the disuse of its + products. The subject of the disuse of slave-grown produce has obtained + currency in the same sphere in which Elihu Burritt operates, and has excited + the attention of the Olive Leaf Circles. Its prospects are not so weak as on + first view might be imagined, if we consider that Great Britain has large + tracts of cotton-growing land at her disposal in India. It has been calculated + that, were suitable railroads and arrangements for transportation provided for + India, cotton could be raised in that empire sufficient for the whole wants of + England, at a rate much cheaper than it can be imported from America. Not only + so, but they could then afford to furnish cotton cheaper at Lowell than the + same article could be procured from the Southern States.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is consolatory to know that a set of men have undertaken this + work whose perseverance in any thing once begun has never been daunted. Slave + labor is becoming every year more expensive in America. The wide market which + has been opened for it has raised it to such an extravagant price as makes the + stocking of a plantation almost ruinous. If England enters the race with free + labor, which has none of these expenses, and none of the risk, she will be sure + to succeed. All the forces of nature go with free labor; and all the forces of + nature resist slave labor. The stars in their courses fight against it; and it + cannot but be that ere long some way will be found to bring these two forces to + a decisive issue.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. Sturge seemed exceedingly anxious that the American states + should adopt the theory of immediate, and not gradual, emancipation. I told him + the great difficulty was to persuade them to think of any emancipation at all; + that the present disposition was to treat slavery as the pillar and ground of + the truth, the ark of religion, the summary of morals, and the only true + millennial form of modern society.</p> + <p class="dgp">He gave me, however, a little account of their antislavery + struggles in England, and said, what was well worthy of note, that they made no + apparent progress in affecting public opinion until they firmly advocated the + right of every innocent being to immediate and complete freedom, without any + conditions. He said that a woman is fairly entitled to the credit of this + suggestion. Elizabeth Heyrick of Leicester, a member of the society of Friends, + published a pamphlet entitled Immediate, not Gradual Emancipation. This little + pamphlet contains much good sense; and, being put forth at a time when men were + really anxious to know the truth, produced a powerful impression.</p> + <p class="dgp">She remarked, very sensibly, that the difficulty had arisen from + indistinct ideas in respect to what is implied in emancipation. She went on to + show that emancipation did not imply freedom from government and restraint; + that it properly brought a slave under the control of the law, instead of that + of an individual; and that it was possible so to apply law as perfectly to + control the emancipated. This is an idea which seems simple enough when pointed + out; but men often stumble a long while before they discover what is most + obvious.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next day was Sunday; and, in order to preserve our + incognito, and secure an uninterrupted rest, free from conversation and + excitement, we were obliged to deprive ourselves of the pleasure of hearing our + friend Rev. John Angell James, which we had much desired to do.</p> + <p class="dgp">It was a warm, pleasant day, and we spent much of our time in a + beautiful arbor constructed in a retired place in the garden, where the trees + and shrubbery were so arranged as to make a most charming retreat.</p> + <p class="dgp">The grounds of Mr. Sturge are very near to those of his + brother—only a narrow road interposing between them. They have contrived + to make them one by building under this road a subterranean passage, so that + the two families can pass and repass into each other's grounds in perfect + privacy.</p> + <p class="dgp">These English gardens delight me much; they unite variety, + quaintness, and an imitation of the wildness of nature with the utmost care and + cultivation. I was particularly pleased with the rockwork, which at times + formed the walls of certain walks, the hollows and interstices of which were + filled with every variety of creeping plants. Mr. Sturge told me that the + substance of which these rockeries are made is sold expressly for the + purpose.</p> + <p class="dgp">On one side of the grounds was an old-fashioned cottage, which + one of my friends informed me Mr. Sturge formerly kept fitted up as a water + cure hospital, for those whose means did not allow them to go to larger + establishments. The plan was afterwards abandoned. One must see that such an + enterprise would have many practical difficulties.</p> + <p class="dgp">At noon we dined in the house of the other brother, Mr. Edmund + Sturge. Here I noticed a full-length engraving of Joseph Sturge. He is + represented as standing with his hand placed protectingly on the head of a + black child.</p> + <p class="dgp">We enjoyed our quiet season with these two families exceedingly. + We seemed to feel ourselves in an atmosphere where all was peace and good will + to man. The little children, after dinner, took us through the walks, to show + us their beautiful rabbits and other pets. Every thing seemed in order, + peaceable and quiet. Towards evening we went back through the arched passage to + the other house again. My Sunday here has always seemed to me a pleasant kind + of pastoral, much like the communion of Christian and Faithful with the + shepherds on the Delectable Mountains.</p> + <p class="dgp">What is remarkable of all these Friends is, that, although they + have been called, in the prosecution of philanthropic enterprises, to encounter + so much opposition, and see so much of the unfavorable side of human nature, + they are so habitually free from any tinge of uncharitableness or evil speaking + in their statements with regard to the character and motives of others. There + is also an habitual avoidance of all exaggerated forms of statement, a sobriety + of diction, which, united with great affectionateness of manner, inspires the + warmest confidence.</p> + <p class="dgp">C. had been, with Mr. Sturge, during the afternoon, to a meeting + of the Friends, and heard a discourse from Sibyl Jones, one of the most popular + of their female preachers. Sibyl is a native of the town of Brunswick, in the + State of Maine. She and her husband, being both preachers, have travelled + extensively in the prosecution of various philanthropic and religious + enterprises.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening Mr. Sturge said that she had expressed a desire + to see me. Accordingly I went with him to call upon her, and found her in the + family of two aged Friends, surrounded by a circle of the same denomination. + She is a woman of great delicacy of appearance, betokening very frail health. I + am told that she is most of her time in a state of extreme suffering from + neuralgic complaints. There was a mingled expression of enthusiasm and + tenderness in her face which was very interesting. She had had, according to + the language of her sect, a concern upon her mind for me.</p> + <p class="dgp">To my mind there is something peculiarly interesting about that + primitive simplicity and frankness with which the members of this body express + themselves. She desired to caution me against the temptations of too much + flattery and applause, and against the worldliness which might beset me in + London. Her manner of addressing me was like one who is commissioned with a + message which must be spoken with plainness and sincerity. After this the whole + circle kneeled, and she offered prayer. I was somewhat painfully impressed with + her evident fragility of body, compared with the enthusiastic workings of her + mind.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the course of the conversation she inquired if I was going to + Ireland. I told her, yes, that was my intention. She begged that I would visit + the western coast, adding, with great feeling, "It was the miseries which I saw + there which have brought my health to the state it is." She had travelled + extensively in the Southern States, and had, in private conversation, been able + very fully to bear her witness against slavery, and had never been heard with + unkindness.</p> + <p class="dgp">The whole incident afforded me matter for reflection. The + calling of women to distinct religious vocations, it appears to me, was a part + of primitive Christianity; has been one of the most efficient elements of power + in the Romish church; obtained among the Methodists in England; and has, in all + these cases, been productive of great good. The deaconesses whom the apostle + mentions with honor in his epistle, Madame Guyon in the Romish church, Mrs. + Fletcher, Elizabeth Fry, are instances which show how much may be done for + mankind by women who feel themselves impelled to a special religious + vocation.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Bible, which always favors liberal development, countenances + this idea, by the instances of Deborah, Anna the prophetess, and by allusions + in the New Testament, which plainly show that the prophetic gift descended upon + women. St. Peter, quoting from the prophetic writings, says, "Upon your sons + and upon your daughters I will pour out my spirit, and they shall prophesy." + And St. Paul alludes to women praying and prophesying in the public assemblies + of the Christians, and only enjoins that it should be done with becoming + attention to the established usages of female delicacy. The example of the + Quakers is a sufficient proof that acting upon this idea does not produce + discord and domestic disorder. No class of people are more remarkable for + quietness and propriety of deportment, and for household order and domestic + excellence. By the admission of this liberty, the world is now and then gifted + with a woman like Elizabeth Fry, while the family state loses none of its + security and sacredness. No one in our day can charge the ladies of the Quaker + sect with boldness or indecorum; and they have demonstrated that even public + teaching, when performed under the influence of an overpowering devotional + spirit, does not interfere with feminine propriety and modesty.</p> + <p class="dgp">The fact is, that the number of women to whom this vocation is + given will always be comparatively few: they are, and generally will be, + exceptions; and the majority of the religious world, ancient and modern, has + decided that these exceptions are to be treated with reverence.</p> + <p class="dgp">The next morning, as we were sitting down to breakfast, our + friends of the other house sent in to me a plate of the largest, finest + strawberries I have ever seen, which, considering that it was only the latter + part of April, seemed to me quite an astonishing luxury.</p> + <p class="dgp">On the morning before we left we had agreed to meet a circle of + friends from Birmingham, consisting of the Abolition Society there, which is of + long standing, extending back in its memories to the very commencement of the + agitation under Clarkson and Wilberforce. It was a pleasant morning, the 1st of + May. The windows of the parlor were opened to the ground; and the company + invited filled not only the room, but stood in a crowd on the grass around the + window. Among the peaceable company present was an admiral in the navy, a fine, + cheerful old gentleman, who entered with hearty interest into the scene.</p> + <p class="dgp">The lady secretary of the society read a neatly-written address, + full of kind feeling and Christian sentiment. Joseph Sturge made a few sensible + and practical remarks on the present aspects of the antislavery cause in the + world, and the most practical mode of assisting it among English Christians. He + dwelt particularly on the encouragement of free labor. The Rev. John Angell + James followed with some extremely kind and interesting remarks, and Mr. S. + replied. As we were intending to return to this city to make a longer visit, we + felt that this interview was but a glimpse of friends whom we hoped to know + more perfectly hereafter.</p> + <p class="dgp">A throng of friends accompanied us to the depot. We had the + pleasure of the company of Elihu Burritt, and enjoyed a delightful run to + London, where we arrived towards evening.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_30" name="toc_30"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XIII</h2> + <p class="noindent"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">Dear + Sister</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">At the station house in London, we found Rev. Messrs. Binney and + Sherman waiting for us with carriages. C. went with Mr. Sherman, and Mr. S. and + I soon found ourselves in a charming retreat called Rose Cottage, in Walworth, + about which I will tell you more anon. Mrs. B. received us with every attention + which the most thoughtful hospitality could suggest.</p> + <p class="dgp">S. and W., who had gone on before us, and taken lodgings very + near, were there waiting to receive us. One of the first things S. said to me, + after we got into our room, was, "O, H——, we are so glad you have + come, for we are all going to the lord mayor's dinner to night, and you are + invited."</p> + <p class="dgp">"What!" said I, "the lord mayor of London, that I used to read + about in Whittington and his Cat?" And immediately there came to my ears the + sound of the old chime, which made so powerful an impression on my childish + memory, wherein all the bells of London were represented as tolling.</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"Turn again, Whittington,</p> + <p class="l">Thrice lord mayor of London."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">It is curious what an influence these old rhymes have on + our associations.</p> + <p class="dgp">S. went on to tell me that the party was the annual dinner given + to the judges of England by the lord mayor, and that there we should see the + whole English bar, and hosts of <em>distingués</em> besides. So, though + I was tired, I hurried to dress in all the glee of meeting an adventure, as Mr. + and Mrs. B. and the rest of the party were ready. Crack went the whip, round + went the wheels, and away we drove.</p> + <p class="dgp">We alighted at the Mansion House, and entered a large + illuminated hall, supported by pillars. Chandeliers were glittering, servants + with powdered heads and gold lace coats were hurrying to and fro in every + direction, receiving company and announcing names. Do you want to know how + announcing is done? Well, suppose a staircase, a hall, and two or three + corridors, intervening between you and the drawing room. At all convenient + distances on this route are stationed these grave, powdered-headed gentlemen, + with their embroidered coats. You walk up to the first one, and tell him + confidentially that you are Miss Smith. He calls to the man on the first + landing, "Miss Smith." The man on the landing says to the man in the corridor, + "Miss Smith." The man in the corridor shouts to the man at the drawing room + door, "Miss Smith." And thus, following the sound of your name, you hear it for + the last time shouted aloud, just before you enter the room.</p> + <p class="dgp">We found a considerable throng, and I was glad to accept a seat + which was offered me in the agreeable vicinity of the lady mayoress, so that I + might see what would be interesting to me of the ceremonial.</p> + <p class="dgp">The titles in law here, as in every thing else, are manifold; + and the powdered-headed gentleman at the door pronounced them with an evident + relish, which was joyous to hear—Mr. Attorney, Mr. Solicitor, and Mr. + Sergeant; Lord Chief Baron, Lord Chief Justice, and Lord this, and Lord that, + and Lord the other, more than I could possibly remember, as in they came + dressed in black, with smallclothes and silk stockings, with swords by their + sides, and little cocked hats under their arms, bowing gracefully before the + lady mayoress.</p> + <p class="dgp">I saw no big wigs, but some wore the hair tied behind with a + small black silk bag attached to it. Some of the principal men were dressed in + black velvet, which became them finely. Some had broad shirt frills of point or + Mechlin lace, with wide ruffles of the same round their wrists.</p> + <p class="dgp">Poor C., barbarian that he was, and utterly unaware of the + priceless gentility of the thing, said to me, <em>sotto voce</em>, "How can men + wear such dirty stuff? Why don't they wash it?" I expounded to him what an + ignorant sinner he was, and that the dirt of ages was one of the surest + indications of value. Wash point lace! it would be as bad as cleaning up the + antiquary's study.</p> + <p class="dgp">The ladies were in full dress, which here in England means + always a dress which exposes the neck and shoulders. This requirement seems to + be universal, since ladies of all ages conform to it. It may, perhaps, account + for this custom, to say that the bust of an English lady is seldom otherwise + than fine, and develops a full outline at what we should call quite an advanced + period of life.</p> + <p class="dgp">A very dignified gentleman, dressed in black velvet, with a fine + head, made his way through the throng, and sat down by me, introducing himself + as Lord Chief Baron Pollock. He told me he had just been reading the legal part + of the Key to Uncle Tom's Cabin, and remarked especially on the opinion of + Judge Ruffin, in the case of State <em>v.</em> Mann, as having made a deep + impression on his mind. Of the character of the decision, considered as a legal + and literary document, he spoke in terms of high admiration; said that nothing + had ever given him so clear a view of the essential nature of slavery. We found + that this document had produced the same impression on the minds of several + others present. Mr. S. said that one or two distinguished legal gentlemen + mentioned it to him in similar terms. The talent and force displayed in it, as + well as the high spirit and scorn of dissimulation, appear to have created a + strong interest in its author. It always seemed to me that there was a certain + severe strength and grandeur about it which approached to the heroic. One or + two said that they were glad such a man had retired from the practice of such a + system of law.</p> + <p class="dgp">But there was scarce a moment for conversation amid the whirl + and eddy of so many presentations. Before the company had all assembled, the + room was a perfect jam of legal and literary notabilities. The dinner was + announced between nine and ten o'clock. We were conducted into a splendid hall, + where the tables were laid. Four long tables were set parallel with the length + of the hall, and one on a raised platform across the upper end. In the midst of + this sat the lord mayor and lady mayoress, on their right hand the judges, on + their left the American minister, with other distinguished guests. I sat by a + most agreeable and interesting young lady, who seemed to take pleasure in + enlightening me on all those matters about which a stranger would naturally be + inquisitive.</p> + <p class="dgp">Directly opposite me was Mr. Dickens, whom I now beheld for the + first time, and was surprised to see looking so young. Mr. Justice Talfourd, + known as the author of Ion, was also there with his lady. She had a beautiful + antique cast of head.</p> + <p class="dgp">The lord mayor was simply dressed in black, without any other + adornment than a massive gold chain.</p> + <p class="dgp">I asked the lady if he had not robes of state. She replied, yes; + but they were very heavy and cumbersome, and that he never wore them when he + could, with any propriety, avoid it. It seems to me that this matter of outward + parade and state is gradually losing its hold even here in England. As society + becomes enlightened, men care less and less for mere shows, and are apt to + neglect those outward forms which have neither beauty nor convenience on their + side, such as judges' wigs and lord mayors' robes.</p> + <p class="dgp">As a general thing the company were more plainly dressed than I + had expected. I am really glad that there is a movement being made to carry the + doctrine of plain dress into our diplomatic representation. Even older nations + are becoming tired of mere shows; and, certainly, the representatives of a + republic ought not to begin to put on the finery which monarchies are beginning + to cast off.</p> + <p class="dgp">The present lord mayor is a member of the House of + Commons—a most liberal-minded man; very simple, but pleasing in his + appearance and address; one who seems to think more of essentials than of + show.</p> + <p class="dgp">He is a dissenter, being a member of Rev. Mr. Binney's church, a + man warmly interested in the promotion of Sabbath schools, and every worthy and + benevolent object.</p> + <p class="dgp">The ceremonies of the dinner were long and weary, and, I + thought, seemed to be more fully entered into by a flourishing official, who + stood at the mayor's back, than by any other person present.</p> + <p class="dgp">The business of toast-drinking is reduced to the nicest system. + A regular official, called a toast master, stood behind the lord mayor with a + paper, from which he read the toasts in their order. Every one, according to + his several rank, pretensions, and station, must be toasted in his gradation; + and every person toasted must have his name announced by the + official,—the larger dignitaries being proposed alone in their glory, + while the smaller fry are read out by the dozen,—and to each toast + somebody must get up and make a speech.</p> + <p class="dgp">First, after the usual loyal toasts, the lord mayor proposed the + health of the American minister, expressing himself in the warmest terms of + friendship towards our country; to which Mr. Ingersoll responded very + handsomely. Among the speakers I was particularly pleased with Lord Chief Baron + Pollock, who, in the absence of Lord Chief Justice Campbell, was toasted as the + highest representative of the legal profession. He spoke with great dignity, + simplicity, and courtesy, taking occasion to pay very flattering compliments to + the American legal profession, speaking particularly of Judge Story. The + compliment gave me great pleasure, because it seemed a just and noble-minded + appreciation, and not a mere civil fiction. We are always better pleased with + appreciation than flattery, though perhaps he strained a point when he said, + "Our brethren on the other side of the Atlantic, with whom we are now + exchanging legal authorities, I fear largely surpass us in the production of + philosophic and comprehensive forms."</p> + <p class="dgp">Speaking of the two countries he said, "God forbid that, with a + common language, with common laws which we are materially improving for the + benefit of mankind, with one common literature, with one common religion, and + above all with one common love of liberty, God forbid that any feeling should + arise between the two countries but the desire to carry through the world these + advantages."</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. Justice Talfourd proposed the literature of our two + countries, under the head of "Anglo-Saxon Literature." He made allusion to the + author of Uncle Tom's Cabin and Mr. Dickens, speaking of both as having + employed fiction as a means of awakening the attention of the respective + countries to the condition of the oppressed and suffering classes. Mr. Talfourd + appears to be in the prime of life, of a robust and somewhat florid habit. He + is universally beloved for his nobleness of soul and generous interest in all + that tends to promote the welfare of humanity, no less than for his classical + and scholarly attainments.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. Dickens replied to this toast in a graceful and playful + strain. In the former part of the evening, in reply to a toast on the chancery + department, Vice-Chancellor Wood, who spoke in the absence of the lord + chancellor, made a sort of defence of the Court of Chancery, not distinctly + alluding to Bleak House, but evidently not without reference to it. The amount + of what he said was, that the court had received a great many more hard + opinions than it merited; that they had been parsimoniously obliged to perform + a great amount of business by a very inadequate number of judges; but that more + recently the number of judges had been increased to seven, and there was reason + to hope that all business brought before it would now be performed without + unnecessary delay.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the conclusion of Mr. Dickens's speech he alluded playfully + to this item of intelligence; said he was exceedingly happy to hear it, as he + trusted now that a suit, in which he was greatly interested, would speedily + come to an end. I heard a little by conversation between Mr. Dickens and a + gentleman of the bar, who sat opposite me, in which the latter seemed to be + reiterating the same assertions, and I understood him to say, that a case not + extraordinarily complicated might be got through with in three months. Mr. + Dickens said he was very happy to hear it; but I fancied there was a little + shade of incredulity in his manner; however, the incident showed one thing, + that is, that the chancery were not insensible to the representations of + Dickens; but the whole tone of the thing was quite good-natured and agreeable. + In this respect, I must say I think the English are quite remarkable. Every + thing here meets the very freest handling; nothing is too sacred to be publicly + shown up; but those who are exhibited appear to have too much good sense to + recognize the force of the picture by getting angry. Mr. Dickens has gone on + unmercifully exposing all sorts of weak places in the English fabric, public + and private, yet nobody cries out upon him as the slanderer of his country. He + serves up Lord Dedlocks to his heart's content, yet none of the nobility make + wry faces about it; nobody is in a hurry to proclaim that he has recognized the + picture, by getting into a passion at it. The contrast between the people of + England and America, in this respect, is rather unfavorable to us, because they + are by profession conservative, and we by profession radical.</p> + <p class="dgp">For us to be annoyed when any of our institutions are commented + upon, is in the highest degree absurd; it would do well enough for Naples, but + it does not do for America.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were some curious old customs observed at this dinner + which interested me as peculiar. About the middle of the feast, the official + who performed all the announcing made the declaration that the lord mayor and + lady mayoress would pledge the guests in a loving cup. They then rose, and the + official presented them with a massive gold cup, full of wine, in which they + pledged the guests. It then passed down the table, and the guests rose, two and + two, each tasting and presenting to the other. My fair informant told me that + this was a custom which had come down from the most ancient time.</p> + <p class="dgp">The banquet was enlivened at intervals by songs from + professional singers, hired for the occasion. After the banquet was over, + massive gold basins, filled with rose water, slid along down the table, into + which the guests dipped their napkins—an improvement, I suppose, on the + doctrine of finger glasses, or perhaps the primeval form of the custom.</p> + <p class="dgp">We rose from table between eleven and twelve o'clock—that + is, we ladies—and went into the drawing room, where I was presented to + Mrs. Dickens and several other ladies. Mrs. Dickens is a good specimen of a + truly English woman; tall, large, and well developed, with fine, healthy color, + and an air of frankness, cheerfulness, and reliability. A friend whispered to + me that she was as observing, and fond of humor, as her husband.</p> + <p class="dgp">After a while the gentlemen came back to the drawing room, and I + had a few moments of very pleasant, friendly conversation with Mr. Dickens. + They are both people that one could not know a little of without desiring to + know more.</p> + <p class="dgp">I had some conversation with the lady mayoress. She said she had + been invited to meet me at Stafford House on Saturday, but should be unable to + attend, as she had called a meeting on the same day of the city ladies, for + considering the condition of milliners and dressmakers, and to form a society + for their relief to act in conjunction with that of the west end.</p> + <p class="dgp">After a little we began to talk of separating; the lord mayor to + take his seat in the House of Commons, and the rest of the party to any other + engagement that might be upon their list.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Come, let us go to the House of Commons," said one of my + friends, "and make a night of it." "With all my heart," replied I, "if I only + had another body to go into to-morrow."</p> + <p class="dgp">What a convenience in sight-seeing it would be if one could have + a relay of bodies, as of clothes, and go from one into the other. But we, not + used to the London style of turning night into day, are full weary already; so, + good night.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_31" name="toc_31"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XIV</h2> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">Rose Cottage, Walworth, London</span>, May + 2.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My + Dear</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">This morning Mrs. Follen called, and we had quite a long chat + together. We are separated by the whole city. She lives at West End, while I am + down here in Walworth, which is one of the postscripts of London; for London + has as many postscripts as a lady's letter—little suburban villages which + have been overtaken by the growth, of the city, and embraced in its arms. I + like them a great deal better than the city, for my part.</p> + <p class="dgp">Here now, for instance, at Walworth, I can look out at a window + and see a nice green meadow with sheep and lambs feeding in it, which is some + relief in this smutty old place. London is as smutty as Pittsburg or Wheeling. + It takes a good hour's steady riding to get from here to West End; so that my + American friends, of the newspapers, who are afraid I shall be corrupted by + aristocratic associations, will see that I am at safe distance.</p> + <p class="dgp">This evening we are appointed to dine with the Earl of Carlisle. + There is to be no company but his own family circle, for he, with great + consideration, said in his note that he thought a little quiet would be the + best thing he could offer. Lord Carlisle is a great friend to America; and so + is his sister, the Duchess of Sutherland. He is the only English traveller who + ever wrote notes on our country in a real spirit of appreciation. While the + Halls, and Trollopes, and all the rest could see nothing but our breaking eggs + on the wrong end, or such matters, he discerned and interpreted those points + wherein lies the real strength of our growing country. His notes on America + were not very extended, being only sketches delivered as a lyceum lecture some + years after his return. It was the spirit and quality, rather than quantity, of + the thing that was noticeable.</p> + <p class="dgp">I observe that American newspapers are sneering about his + preface to Uncle Tom's Cabin; but they ought at least to remember that his + sentiments with regard to slavery are no sudden freak. In the first place, he + comes of a family that has always been on the side of liberal and progressive + principles. He himself has been a leader of reforms on the popular side. It was + a temporary defeat, when run as an anti-corn-law candidate, which gave him + leisure to travel in America. Afterwards he had the satisfaction to be + triumphantly returned for that district, and to see the measure he had + advocated fully successful.</p> + <p class="dgp">While Lord Carlisle was in America he never disguised those + antislavery sentiments which formed a part of his political and religious creed + as an Englishman, and as the heir of a house always true to progress. Many + cultivated English people have shrunk from acknowledging abolitionists in + Boston, where the ostracism of fashion and wealth has been enforced against + them. Lord Carlisle, though moving in the highest circle, honestly and openly + expressed his respect for them on all occasions. He attended the Boston + antislavery fair, which at that time was quite a decided step. Nor did he even + in any part of our country disguise his convictions. There is, therefore, + propriety and consistency in the course he has taken now.</p> + <p class="dgp">It would seem that a warm interest in questions of a public + nature has always distinguished the ladies of this family. The Duchess of + Sutherland's mother is daughter of the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, who, + in her day, employed on the liberal side in politics all the power of genius, + wit, beauty, and rank. It was to the electioneering talents of herself and her + sister, the Lady Duncannon, that Fox, at one crisis, owed his election. We + Americans should remember that it was this party who advocated our cause during + our revolutionary struggle. Fox and his associates pleaded for us with much the + same arguments, and with the same earnestness and warmth, that American + abolitionists now plead for the slaves. They stood against all the power of the + king and cabinet, as the abolitionists in America in 1850 stood against + president and cabinet.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Duchess of Devonshire was a woman of real noble impulses and + generous emotions, and had a true sympathy for what is free and heroic. + Coleridge has some fine lines addressed to her,—called forth by a sonnet + which she composed, while in Switzerland, on William Tell's Chapel,—which + begin,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"O lady, nursed in pomp and pleasure,</p> + <p class="l">Where learn'dst thou that heroic measure?"</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The Duchess of Sutherland, in our times, has been known to + be no less warmly interested on the liberal side. So great was her influence + held to be, that upon a certain occasion when a tory cabinet was to be formed, + a distinguished minister is reported to have said to the queen that he could + not hope to succeed in his administration while such a decided influence as + that of the Duchess of Sutherland stood at the head of her majesty's household. + The queen's spirited refusal to surrender her favorite attendant attracted, at + the time, universal admiration.</p> + <p class="dgp">Like her brother Lord Carlisle, the Duchess of Sutherland has + always professed those sentiments with regard to slavery which are the glory of + the English nation, and which are held with more particular zeal by those + families who are favorable to the progress of liberal ideas.</p> + <p class="dgp">At about seven o'clock we took our carriage to go to the Earl of + Carlisle's, the dinner hour being here somewhere between eight and nine. As we + rode on through the usual steady drizzling rain, from street to street and + square to square, crossing Waterloo Bridge, with its avenue of lamps faintly + visible in the seethy mist, plunging through the heart of the city, we began to + realize something of the immense extent of London.</p> + <p class="dgp">Altogether the most striking objects that you pass, as you ride + in the evening thus, are the gin shops, flaming and flaring from the most + conspicuous positions, with plate-glass windows and dazzling lights, thronged + with men, and women, and children, drinking destruction. Mothers go there with + babies in their arms, and take what turns the mother's milk to poison. Husbands + go there, and spend the money that their children want for bread, and + multitudes of boys and girls of the age of my own. In Paris and other European + cities, at least the great fisher of souls baits with something attractive, but + in these gin shops men bite at the bare, barbed hook. There are no garlands, no + dancing, no music, no theatricals, no pretence of social exhilaration, nothing + but hogsheads of spirits, and people going in to drink. The number of them that + I passed seemed to me absolutely appalling.</p> + <p class="dgp">After long driving we found ourselves coming into the precincts + of the West End, and began to feel an indefinite sense that we were approaching + something very grand, though I cannot say that we saw much but heavy, + smoky-walled buildings, washed by the rain. At length we stopped in Grosvenor + Place, and alighted.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were shown into an anteroom adjoining the entrance hall, and + from that into an adjacent apartment, where we met Lord Carlisle. The room had + a pleasant, social air, warmed and enlivened by the blaze of a coal fire and + wax candles.</p> + <p class="dgp">We had never, any of us, met Lord Carlisle before; but the + considerateness and cordiality of our reception obviated whatever embarrassment + there might have been in this circumstance. In a few moments after we were all + seated the servant announced the Duchess of Sutherland, and Lord Carlisle + presented me. She is tall and stately, with a decided fulness of outline, and a + most noble bearing. Her fair complexion, blond hair, and full lips speak of + Saxon blood. In her early youth she might have been a Rowena. I thought of the + lines of Wordsworth:—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"A perfect woman, nobly planned,</p> + <p class="l">To warn, to comfort, to command."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Her manners have a peculiar warmth and cordiality. One sees + people now and then who seem to <em>radiate</em> kindness and vitality, and to + have a faculty of inspiring perfect confidence in a moment. There are no airs + of grandeur, no patronizing ways; but a genuine sincerity and kindliness that + seem to come from a deep fountain within.</p> + <p class="dgp">The engraving by Winterhalter, which has been somewhat familiar + in America, is as just a representation of her air and bearing as could be + given.</p> + <p class="dgp">After this we were presented to the various members of the + Howard family, which is a very numerous one. Among them were Lady Dover, Lady + Lascelles, and Lady Labouchère, sisters of the duchess. The Earl of + Burlington, who is the heir of the Duke of Devonshire, was also present. The + Duke of Devonshire is the uncle of Lord Carlisle.</p> + <p class="dgp">The only person present not of the family connection was my + quondam correspondent in America, Arthur Helps. Somehow or other I had formed + the impression from his writings that he was a venerable sage of very advanced + years, who contemplated life as an aged hermit, from the door of his cell. + Conceive my surprise to find a genial young gentleman of about twenty-five, who + looked as if he might enjoy a joke as well as another man.</p> + <p class="dgp">At dinner I found myself between him and Lord Carlisle, and + perceiving, perhaps, that the nature of my reflections was of rather an amusing + order, he asked me confidentially if I did not like fun, to which I assented + with fervor. I like that little homely word <em>fun</em>, though I understand + the dictionary says what it represents is vulgar; but I think it has a good, + hearty, Saxon sound, and I like Saxon, better than Latin or French either.</p> + <p class="dgp">When the servant offered me wine Lord Carlisle asked me if our + party were all <em>teetotallers</em>, and I said yes; that in America all + clergymen were teetotallers, of course.</p> + <p class="dgp">After the ladies left the table the conversation turned on the + Maine law, which seems to be considered over here as a phenomenon, in + legislation, and many of the gentlemen, present inquired about it with great + curiosity.</p> + <p class="dgp">When we went into the drawing room I was presented to the + venerable Countess of Carlisle, the earl's mother; a lady universally beloved + and revered, not less for superior traits of mind than for great loveliness and + benevolence of character. She received us with the utmost kindness; kindness + evidently genuine and real.</p> + <p class="dgp">The walls of the drawing room were beautifully adorned with + works of art by the best masters. There was a Rembrandt hanging over the + fireplace, which showed finely by the evening light. It was simply the portrait + of a man with a broad, Flemish hat. There were one or two pictures, also, by + Cuyp. I should think he must have studied in America, so perfectly does he + represent the golden, hazy atmosphere of our Indian summer.</p> + <p class="dgp">One of the ladies showed me a snuff box on which was a picture + of Lady Carlisle's mother, the celebrated Duchess of Devonshire, taken when she + was quite a little girl; a round, happy face, showing great vivacity and + genius. On another box was an exquisitely beautiful miniature of a relative of + the family.</p> + <p class="dgp">After the gentlemen rejoined us came in the Duke and Duchess of + Argyle, and Lord and Lady Blantyre. These ladies are the daughters of the + Duchess of Sutherland. The Duchess of Argyle is of a slight and fairy-like + figure, with flaxen hair and blue eyes, answering well enough to the + description of Annot Lyle, in the Legend of Montrose. Lady Blantyre was + somewhat taller, of fuller figure, with very brilliant bloom. Lord Blantyre is + of the Stuart blood, a tall and slender young man, with very graceful + manners.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to the Duke of Argyle, we found that the picture drawn of him + by his countrymen in Scotland was every way correct. Though slight of figure, + with fair complexion and blue eyes, his whole appearance is indicative of + energy and vivacity. His talents and efficiency have made him a member of the + British cabinet at a much earlier age than is usual; and he has distinguished + himself not only in political life, but as a writer, having given to the world + a work on Presbyterianism, embracing an analysis of the ecclesiastical history + of Scotland since the reformation, which is spoken of as written with great + ability, in a most candid and liberal spirit.</p> + <p class="dgp">The company soon formed themselves into little groups in + different parts of the room. The Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Carlisle, and the + Duke and Duchess of Argyle formed a circle, and turned the conversation upon + American topics. The Duke of Argyle made many inquiries about our distinguished + men; particularly of Emerson, Longfellow, and Hawthorne; also of Prescott, who + appears to be a general favorite here. I felt at the moment that we never value + our literary men so much as when placed in a circle of intelligent foreigners; + it is particularly so with Americans, because we have nothing but our men and + women to glory in—no court, no nobles, no castles, no cathedrals; except + we produce distinguished specimens of humanity, we are nothing.</p> + <p class="dgp">The quietness of this evening circle, the charm of its kind + hospitality, the evident air of sincerity and good will which pervaded every + thing, made the evening pass most delightfully to me. I had never felt myself + more at home even among the Quakers. Such a visit is a true rest and + refreshment, a thousand times better than the most brilliant and glittering + entertainment.</p> + <p class="dgp">At eleven o'clock, however, the carriage called, for our evening + was drawing to its close; that of our friends, I suppose, was but just + commencing, as London's liveliest hours are by gaslight, but we cannot learn + the art of turning night into day.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_32" name="toc_32"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XV</h2> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right">May 4.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + S.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">This morning I felt too tired to go out any where; but Mr. and + Mrs. Binney persuaded me to go just a little while in to the meeting of the + Bible Society, for you must know that this is anniversary week, and so, besides + the usual rush, and roar, and whirl of London, there is the confluence of all + the religious forces in Exeter Hall. I told Mrs. B. that I was worn out, and + did not think I could sit through a single speech; but she tempted me by a + promise that I should withdraw at any moment. We had a nice little snug gallery + near one of the doors, where I could see all over the house, and make a quick + retreat in case of need.</p> + <p class="dgp">In one point English ladies certainly do carry practical + industry farther than I ever saw it in America. Every body knows that an + anniversary meeting is something of a siege, and I observed many good ladies + below had made regular provision therefor, by bringing knitting work, sewing, + crochet, or embroidery. I thought it was an improvement, and mean to recommend + it when I get home. I am sure many of our Marthas in America will be very + grateful for the custom.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Earl of Shaftesbury was in the chair, and I saw him now for + the first time. He is quite a tall man, of slender figure, with a long and + narrow face, dark hazel eyes, and very thick, auburn hair. His bearing was + dignified and appropriate to his position. People here are somewhat amused by + the vivacity with which American papers are exhorting Lord Shaftesbury to look + into the factory system, and to explore the collieries, and in general to take + care of the suffering lower classes, as if he had been doing any thing else for + these twenty years past. To people who know how he has worked against wind and + tide, in the face of opposition and obloquy, and how all the dreadful + statistics that they quote against him were brought out expressly by inquiries + set on foot and prosecuted by him, and how these same statistics have been by + him reiterated in the ears of successive houses of Parliament till all these + abuses have been reformed, as far as the most stringent and minute legislation + can reform, them,—it is quite amusing to hear him exhorted to consider + the situation of the working classes. One reason for this, perhaps, is that + provoking facility in changing names which is incident to the English peerage. + During the time that most of the researches and speeches on the factory system + and collieries were made, the Earl of Shaftesbury was in the House of Commons, + with the title of Lord Ashley, and it was not till the death of his father that + he entered the House of Peers as Lord Shaftesbury. The contrast which a very + staid religious paper in America has drawn between Lord Ashley and Lord + Shaftesbury does not strike people over here as remarkably apposite.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the course of the speeches on this occasion, frequent and + feeling allusions were made to the condition of three millions of people in + America who are prevented by legislative enactments from reading for themselves + the word of life. I know it is not pleasant to our ministers upon the stage to + hear such things; but is the whole moral sense of the world to hush its voice, + the whole missionary spirit of Christianity to be restrained, because it is + disagreeable for us to be reminded of our national sins? At least, let the + moral atmosphere of the world be kept pure, though it should be too stimulating + for our diseased lungs. If oral instruction will do for three million slaves in + America, it will do equally well in Austria, Italy, and Spain, and the powers + that be, there, are just of the opinion that they are in America—that it + is dangerous to have the people read the Bible for themselves. Thoughts of this + kind were very ably set forth in some of the speeches. On the stage I noticed + Rev. Samuel R. Ward, from Toronto in Canada, a full blooded African of fine + personal presence. He was received and treated with much cordiality by the + ministerial brethren who surrounded him. I was sorry that I could not stay + through the speeches, for they were quite interesting. C. thought they were the + best he ever heard at an anniversary. I was obliged to leave after a little. + Mr. Sherman very kindly came for us in his carriage, and took us a little ride + into the country.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mrs. B. says that to-morrow morning we shall go out to see the + Dulwich Gallery, a fine collection of paintings by the old masters. Now, I + confess unto you that I have great suspicions of these old masters. Why, I wish + to know, should none but <em>old</em> masters be thought any thing of? Is not + nature ever springing, ever new? Is it not fair to conclude that all the + mechanical assistants of painting are improved with the advance of society, as + much as of all arts? May not the magical tints, which are said to be a secret + with the old masters, be the effect of time in part? or may not modern artists + have their secrets, as well, for future ages to study and admire? Then, + besides, how are we to know that our admiration of old masters is genuine, + since we can bring our taste to any thing, if we only know we must, and try + long enough? People never like olives the first time they eat them. In fact, I + must confess, I have some partialities towards young masters, and a sort of + suspicion that we are passing over better paintings at our side, to get at + those which, though the best of their day, are not so good as the best of ours. + I certainly do not worship the old English poets. With the exception of Milton + and Shakspeare, there is more poetry in the works of the writers of the last + fifty years than in all the rest together. Well, these are my surmises for the + present; but one thing I am determined—as my admiration is nothing to any + body but myself, I will keep some likes and dislikes of my own, and will not + get up any raptures that do not arise of themselves. I am entirely willing to + be conquered by any picture that has the power. I will be a non-resistant, but + that is all.</p> + <p class="dgp">May 5. Well, we saw the Dulwich Gallery; five rooms filled with + old masters, Murillos, Claudes, Rubens, Salvator Rosas, Titians, Cuyps, + Vandykes, and all the rest of them; probably not the best specimens of any one + of them, but good enough to begin with. C. and I took different courses. I said + to him, "Now choose nine pictures simply by your eye, and see how far its + untaught guidance will bring you within the canons of criticism." When he had + gone through all the rooms and marked his pictures, we found he had selected + two by Rubens, two by Vandyke, one by Salvator Rosa, three by Murillo, and one + by Titian. Pretty successful that, was it not, for a first essay? We then took + the catalogue, and selected all the pictures of each artist one after another, + in order to get an idea of the style of each. I had a great curiosity to see + Claude Lorraine's, remembering the poetical things that had been said and sung + of him. I thought I would see if I could distinguish them by my eye without + looking at the catalogue I found I could do so. I knew them by a certain misty + quality in the atmosphere. I was disappointed in them, very much. Certainly, + they were good paintings; I had nothing to object to them, but I profanely + thought I had seen pictures by modern landscape painters as far excelling them + as a brilliant morning excels a cool, gray day. Very likely the fault was all + in me, but I could not help it; so I tried the Murillos. There was a Virgin and + Child, with clouds around them. The virgin was a very pretty girl, such as you + may see by the dozen in any boarding school, and the child was a pretty child. + Call it the young mother and son, and it is a very pretty picture; but call it + Mary and the infant Jesus, and it is an utter failure. Not such was the Jewish + princess, the inspired poetess and priestess, the chosen of God among all + women.</p> + <p class="dgp">It seems to me that painting is poetry expressing itself by + lines and colors instead of words; therefore there are two things to be + considered in every picture: first, the quality of the idea expressed, and + second, the quality of the language in which it is expressed. Now, with regard + to the first, I hold that every person of cultivated taste is as good a judge + of painting as of poetry. The second, which relates to the mode of expressing + the conception, including drawing and coloring, with all their secrets, + requires more study, and here our untaught perceptions must sometimes yield to + the judgment of artists. My first question, then, when I look at the work of an + artist, is, What sort of a mind has this man? What has he to say? And then I + consider, How does he say it?</p> + <p class="dgp">Now, with regard to Murillo, it appeared to me that he was a man + of rather a mediocre mind, with nothing very high or deep to say, but that he + was gifted with an exquisite faculty of expressing what he did say; and his + paintings seem to me to bear an analogy to Pope's poetry, wherein the power of + expression is wrought to the highest point, but without freshness or ideality + in the conception. As Pope could reproduce in most exquisite wording the + fervent ideas of Eloisa, without the power to originate such, so Murillo + reproduced the current and floating religious ideas of his times, with most + exquisite perfection of art and color, but without ideality or vitality. The + pictures of his which please me most are his beggar boys and flower girls, + where he abandons the region of ideality, and simply reproduces nature. His art + and coloring give an exquisite grace to such sketches.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to Vandyke, though evidently a fine painter, he is one whose + mind does not move me. He adds nothing to my stock of thoughts—awakens no + emotion. I know it is a fine picture, just as I have sometimes been conscious + in church that I was hearing a fine sermon, which somehow had not the slightest + effect upon me.</p> + <p class="dgp">Rubens, on the contrary, whose pictures I detested with all the + energy of my soul, I knew and felt all the time, by the very pain he gave me, + to be a real living artist. There was a Venus and Cupid there, as fat and as + coarse as they could be, but so freely drawn, and so masterly in their + expression and handling, that one must feel that they were by an artist, who + could just as easily have painted them any other way if it had suited his + sovereign pleasure, and therefore we are the more vexed with him. When your + taste is crossed by a clever person, it always vexes you more than when it is + done by a stupid one, because it is done with such power that there is less + hope for you.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were a number of pictures of Cuyp there, which satisfied + my thirst for coloring, and appeared to me as I expected the Claudes would have + done. Generally speaking, his objects are few in number and commonplace in + their character—a bit of land and water, a few cattle and figures, in no + way remarkable; but then he floods the whole with that dreamy, misty sunlight, + such as fills the arches of our forests in the days of autumn. As I looked at + them I fancied I could hear nuts dropping from the trees among the dry leaves, + and see the goldenrods and purple asters, and hear the click of the squirrel as + he whips up the tree to his nest. For this one attribute of golden, dreamy + haziness, I like Cuyp. His power in shedding it over very simple objects + reminds me of some of the short poems of Longfellow, when things in themselves + most prosaic are flooded with a kind of poetic light from the inner soul. These + are merely first ideas and impressions. Of course I do not make up my mind + about any artist from what I have seen here. We must not expect a painter to + put his talent into every picture, more than a poet into every verse that he + writes. Like other men, he is sometimes brilliant and inspired, and at others + dull and heavy. In general, however, I have this to say, that there is some + kind of fascination about these old masters which I feel very sensibly. But + yet, I am sorry to add that there is very little of what I consider the highest + mission of art in the specimens I have thus far seen; nothing which speaks to + the deepest and the highest; which would inspire a generous ardor, or a solemn + religious trust. Vainly I seek for something divine, and ask of art to bring me + nearer to the source of all beauty and perfection. I find wealth of coloring, + freedom of design, and capability of expression wasting themselves merely in + portraying trivial sensualities and commonplace ideas. So much for the first + essay.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening we went to dine with our old friends of the + Dingle, Mr. and Mrs. Edward Cropper, who are now spending a little time in + London. We were delighted to meet them once more, and to hear from our + Liverpool friends. Mrs. Cropper's father, Lord Denman, has returned to England, + though with no sensible improvement in his health.</p> + <p class="dgp">At dinner we were introduced to Lord and Lady Hatherton. Lord + Hatherton is a member of the whig party, and has been chief secretary for + Ireland. Lady Hatherton is a person of great cultivation and intelligence, + warmly interested in all the progressive movements of the day; and I gained + much information in her society. There were also present Sir Charles and Lady + Trevelyan; the former holds some appointment in the navy. Lady Trevelyan is a + sister of Macaulay.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening quite a circle came in; among others, Lady Emma + Campbell, sister of the Duke of Argyle; the daughters of the Archbishop of + Canterbury, who very kindly invited me to visit them, at Lambeth; and Mr. + Arthur Helps, besides many others whose names I need not mention.</p> + <p class="dgp">People here continually apologize for the weather, which, to say + the least, has been rather ungracious since we have been here; as if one ever + expected to find any thing but smoke, and darkness, and fog in London. The + authentic air with which they lament the existence of these things <em>at + present</em> would almost persuade one that <em>in general</em> London was a + very clear, bright place. I, however, assured them that, having heard from my + childhood of the smoke of London, its dimness and darkness, I found things much + better than I had expected.</p> + <p class="dgp">They talk here of spirit rappings and table turnings, I find, as + in America. Many rumors are afloat which seem to have no other effect than + merely to enliven the chitchat of an evening circle. I passed a very pleasant + evening, and left about ten o'clock. The gentleman who was handing me down + stairs said, "I suppose you are going to one or two other places to-night." The + idea struck me as so preposterous that I could not help an exclamation of + surprise.</p> + <p class="dgp">May 6. A good many calls this morning. Among others came Miss + Greenfield, the (so called) Black Swan. She appears to be a gentle, amiable, + and interesting young person. She was born the slave of a kind mistress, who + gave her every thing but education, and, dying, left her free with a little + property. The property she lost by some legal quibble, but had, like others of + her race, a passion for music, and could sing and play by ear. A young lady, + discovering her taste, gave her a few lessons. She has a most astonishing + voice. C. sat down to the piano and played, while she sung. Her voice runs + through a compass of three octaves and a fourth. This is four notes more than + Malibran's. She sings a most magnificent tenor, with such a breadth and volume + of sound that, with your back turned, you could not imagine it to be a woman. + While she was there, Mrs. S.C. Hall, of the Irish Sketches, was announced. She + is a tall, well-proportioned woman, with a fine color, dark-brown hair, and a + cheerful, cordial manner. She brought with her her only daughter, a young girl + about fifteen. I told her of Miss Greenfield, and, she took great interest in + her, and requested her to sing something for her. C. played the accompaniment, + and she sung Old Folks at Home, first in a soprano voice, and then in a tenor + or baritone. Mrs. Hall was amazed and delighted, and entered at once into her + cause. She said that she would call with me and present her to Sir George + Smart, who is at the head of the queen's musical establishment, and, of course, + the acknowledged leader of London musical judgment.</p> + <p class="dgp">Mrs. Hall very kindly told me that she had called to invite me + to seek a retreat with her in her charming little country house near London. I + do not mean that <em>she</em> called it a charming little retreat, but that + every one who speaks of it gives it that character. She told me that I should + there have positive and perfect quiet; and what could attract me more than + that? She said, moreover, that there they had a great many nightingales. Ah, + this "bower of roses by Bendemeer's stream," could I only go there! but I am + tied to London by a hundred engagements. I cannot do it. Nevertheless, I have + promised that I will go and spend some time yet, when Mr. S. leaves London.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the course of the day I had a note from Mrs. Hall, saying + that, as Sir George Smart was about leaving town, she had not waited for me, + but had taken Miss Greenfield to him herself. She writes that he was really + astonished and charmed at the wonderful weight, compass, and power of her + voice. He was also as well pleased with the mind in her singing, and her + quickness in doing and catching all that he told her. Should she have a public + opportunity to perform, he offered to hear her rehearse beforehand. Mrs. Hall + says this is a great deal for him, whose hours are all marked with gold.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening the house was opened in a general way for + callers, who were coming and going all the evening. I think there must have + been over two hundred people—among them Martin Farquhar Tupper, a little + man, with fresh, rosy complexion, and cheery, joyous manners; and Mary Howitt, + just such a cheerful, sensible, fireside companion as we find her in her + books,—winning love and trust the very first few moments of the + interview. The general topic of remark on meeting me seems to be, that I am not + so bad looking as they were afraid I was; and I do assure you that, when I have + seen the things that are put up in the shop windows here with my name under + them, I have been in wondering admiration at the boundless loving-kindness of + my English and Scottish friends, in keeping up such a warm heart for such a + Gorgon. I should think that the Sphinx in the London Museum might have sat for + most of them. I am going to make a collection of these portraits to bring home + to you. There is a great variety of them, and they will be useful, like the + Irishman's guideboard, which showed where the road did not go.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before the evening was through I was talked out and worn + out—there was hardly a chip of me left. To-morrow at eleven o'clock comes + the meeting at Stafford House. What it will amount to I do not know; but I take + no thought for the morrow.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_33" name="toc_33"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVI</h2> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">May</span> 8.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + C.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">In fulfilment of my agreement, I will tell you, as nearly as I + can remember, all the details of the meeting at Stafford House.</p> + <p class="dgp">At about eleven o'clock we drove under the arched carriage way + of a mansion, externally, not very showy in appearance. It stands on the + borders of St. James's Park, opposite to Buckingham Palace, with a street on + the north side, and beautiful gardens on the south, while the park is extended + on the west.</p> + <p class="dgp">We were received at the door by two stately Highlanders in full + costume; and what seemed to me an innumerable multitude of servants in livery, + with powdered hair, repeated our names through the long corridors, from one to + another.</p> + <p class="dgp">I have only a confused idea of passing from passage to passage, + and from hall to hall, till finally we were introduced into a large drawing + room. No person was present, and I was at full leisure to survey an apartment + whose arrangements more perfectly suited my eye and taste than any I had ever + seen before. There was not any particular splendor of furniture, or dazzling + display of upholstery, but an artistic, poetic air, resulting from the + arrangement of colors, and the disposition of the works of <em>virtu</em> with + which the room abounded. The great fault in many splendid rooms, is, that they + are arranged without any eye to unity of impression. The things in them may be + all fine in their way, but there is no harmony of result.</p> + <p class="dgp">People do not often consider that there may be a general + sentiment to be expressed in the arrangement of a room, as well as in the + composition of a picture. It is this leading idea which corresponds to what + painters call the ground tone, or harmonizing tint, of a picture. The presence + of this often renders a very simple room extremely fascinating, and the absence + of it makes the most splendid combinations of furniture powerless to + please.</p> + <p class="dgp">The walls were covered with green damask, laid on flat, and + confined in its place by narrow gilt bands, which bordered it around the + margin. The chairs, ottomans, and sofas were of white woodwork, varnished and + gilded, covered with the same.</p> + <p class="dgp">The carpet was of a green ground, bedropped with a small yellow + leaf; and in each window a circular, standing basket contained a whole bank of + primroses, growing as if in their native soil, their pale yellow blossoms and + green leaves harmonizing admirably with the general tone of coloring.</p> + <p class="dgp">Through the fall of the lace curtains I could see out into the + beautiful grounds, whose clumps of blossoming white lilacs, and velvet grass, + seemed so in harmony with the green interior of the room, that one would think + they had been arranged as a continuation of the idea.</p> + <p class="dgp">One of the first individual objects which attracted my attention + was, over the mantel-piece, a large, splendid picture by Landseer, which I have + often seen engraved. It represents the two eldest children of the Duchess of + Sutherland, the Marquis of Stafford, and Lady Blantyre, at that time Lady + Levison Gower, in their childhood. She is represented as feeding a fawn; a + little poodle dog is holding up a rose to her; and her brother is lying on the + ground, playing with an old staghound.</p> + <p class="dgp">I had been familiar with Landseer's engravings, but this was the + first of his paintings I had ever seen, and I was struck with the rich and + harmonious quality of the coloring. There was also a full-length marble statue + of the Marquis of Stafford, taken, I should think, at about seventeen years of + age, in full Highland costume.</p> + <p class="dgp">When the duchess appeared, I thought she looked handsomer by + daylight than in the evening. She was dressed in white muslin, with a drab + velvet basque slashed with satin of the same color. Her hair was confined by a + gold and diamond net on the back part of her head.</p> + <p class="dgp">She received us with the same warm and simple kindness which she + had shown before. We were presented to the Duke of Sutherland. He is a tall, + slender man, with rather a thin face, light brown hair, and a mild blue eye, + with an air of gentleness and dignity. The delicacy of his health prevents him + from moving in general society, or entering into public life. He spends much of + his time in reading, and devising and executing schemes of practical + benevolence for the welfare of his numerous dependants.</p> + <p class="dgp">I sought a little private conversation with the duchess in her + boudoir, in which I frankly confessed a little anxiety respecting the + arrangements of the day: having lived all my life in such a shady and + sequestered way, and being entirely ignorant of life as it exists in the sphere + in which she moves, such apprehensions were rather natural.</p> + <p class="dgp">She begged that I would make myself entirely easy, and consider + myself as among my own friends; that she had invited a few friends to lunch, + and that afterwards others would call; that there would be a short address from + the ladies of England read by Lord Shaftesbury, which would require no + answer.</p> + <p class="dgp">I could not but be grateful for the consideration thus evinced. + The matter being thus adjusted, we came back to the drawing room, when the + party began to assemble.</p> + <p class="dgp">The only difference, I may say, by the by, in the gathering of + such a company and one with us, is in the announcing of names at the door; a, + custom which I think a good one, saving a vast deal of the breath we always + expend in company, by asking "Who is that? and that?" Then, too, people can + fall into conversation without a formal presentation, the presumption being + that nobody is invited with whom, it is not proper that you should converse. + The functionary who performed the announcing was a fine, stalwart man, in full + Highland costume, the duke being the head of a Highland clan.</p> + <p class="dgp">Among the first that entered were the members of the family, the + Duke and Duchess of Argyle, Lord and Lady Blantyre, the Marquis and Marchioness + of Stafford, and Lady Emma Campbell. Then followed Lord Shaftesbury with his + beautiful lady, and her father and mother, Lord and Lady Palmerston. Lord + Palmerston is of middle height, with a keen, dark eye, and black hair streaked + with gray. There is something peculiarly alert and vivacious about all his + movements; in short his appearance perfectly answers to what we know of him + from his public life. One has a strange mythological feeling about the + existence of people of whom one hears for many years without ever seeing them. + While talking with Lord Palmerston I could but remember how often I had heard + father and Mr. S. exulting over his foreign despatches by our home + fireside.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Marquis of Lansdowne now entered. He is about the middle + height, with gray hair, blue eyes, and a mild, quiet dignity of manner. He is + one of those who, as Lord Henry Pettes, took a distinguished part with Clarkson + and Wilberforce in the abolition of the slave trade. He has always been a most + munificent patron of literature and art.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were present, also, Lord John Russell, Mr. Gladstone, and + Lord Grenville. The latter we all thought very strikingly resembled in his + appearance the poet Longfellow. My making the remark introduced the subject of + his poetry. The Duchess of Argyle appealed to her two little boys, who stood + each side of her, if they remembered her reading Evangeline to them. It is a + gratification to me that I find by every English fireside traces of one of our + American poets. These two little boys of the Duchess of Argyle, and the + youngest son of the Duchess of Sutherland, were beautiful fair-haired children, + picturesquely attired in the Highland costume. There were some other charming + children of the family circle present. The eldest son of the Duke of Argyle + bears the title of the Lord of Lorn, which Scott has rendered so poetical a + sound to our ears.</p> + <p class="dgp">When lunch was announced, the Duke of Sutherland gave me his + arm, and led me through a suite of rooms into the dining hall. Each room that + we passed was rich in its pictures, statues, and artistic arrangements; a + poetic eye and taste had evidently presided over all. The table was beautifully + laid, ornamented by two magnificent <em>épergnes</em>, crystal vases + supported by wrought silver standards, filled with the most brilliant hothouse + flowers; on the edges of the vases and nestling among the flowers were silver + doves of the size of life. The walls of the room were hung with gorgeous + pictures, and directly opposite to me was a portrait of the Duchess of + Sutherland, by Sir Thomas Lawrence, which has figured largely in our souvenirs + and books of beauty. She is represented with a little child in her arms; this + child, now Lady Blantyre, was sitting opposite to me at table, with a charming + little girl of her own, of about the same apparent age. When one sees such + things, one almost fancies this to be a fairy palace, where the cold demons of + age and time have lost their power.</p> + <p class="dgp">I was seated next to Lord Lansdowne, who conversed much with me + about affairs in America. It seems to me that the great men of the old world + regard our country thoughtfully. It is a new development of society, acting + every day with greater and greater power on the old world; nor is it yet + clearly seen what its final results will be. His observations indicated a calm, + clear, thoughtful mind—an accurate observer of life and history.</p> + <p class="dgp">Meanwhile the servants moved noiselessly to and fro, taking up + the various articles on the table, and offering them to the guests in a + peculiarly quiet manner. One of the dishes brought to me was a plover's nest, + precisely as the plover made it, with five little blue speckled eggs in it. + This mode of serving plover's eggs, as I understand it, is one of the fashions + of-the day, and has something quite sylvan and picturesque about it; but it + looked so, for all the world, like a robin's nest that I used to watch out in + our home orchard, that I had it not in my heart to profane the sanctity of the + image by eating one of the eggs.</p> + <p class="dgp">The <em>cuisine</em> of these West End regions appears to be + entirely under French legislation, conducted by Parisian artists, skilled in + all subtle and metaphysical combinations of ethereal possibilities, quite + inscrutable to the eye of sense. Her grace's <em>chef</em>, I have heard it + said elsewhere, bears the reputation of being the first artist of his class in + England. The profession as thus sublimated bears the same proportion to the old + substantial English cookery that Mozart's music does to Handel's, or Midsummer + Night's Dream to Paradise Lost.</p> + <p class="dgp">This meal, called <em>lunch</em>, is with the English quite an + institution, being apparently a less elaborate and ceremonious dinner. Every + thing is placed upon the table at once, and ladies sit down without removing + their bonnets; it is, I imagine, the most social and family meal of the day; + one in which children are admitted to the table, even in the presence of + company. It generally takes place in the middle of the day, and the dinner, + which comes after it, at eight or nine in the evening, is in comparison only a + ceremonial proceeding.</p> + <p class="dgp">I could not help thinking, as I looked around on so many men + whom I had heard of historically all my life, how very much less they bear the + marks of age than men who have been connected a similar length of time with the + movements of our country. This appearance of youthfulness and alertness has a + constantly deceptive influence upon one in England. I cannot realize that + people are as old as history states them to be. In the present company there + were men of sixty or seventy, whom I should have pronounced at the first glance + to be fifty.</p> + <p class="dgp">Generally speaking our working minds seem to wear out their + bodies faster; perhaps because our climate is more stimulating; more, perhaps, + from the intenser stimulus of our political <em>régime</em>, which never + leaves any thing long at rest.</p> + <p class="dgp">The tone of manners in this distinguished circle did not obtrude + itself upon my mind as different from that of highly-educated people in our own + country. It appeared simple, friendly, natural, and sincere. They talked like + people who thought of what they were saying, rather than how to say it. The + practice of thorough culture and good breeding is substantially the same + through the world, though smaller conventionalities may differ.</p> + <p class="dgp">After lunch the whole party ascended to the picture gallery, + passing on our way the grand staircase and hall, said to be the most + magnificent in Europe. All that wealth could command of artistic knowledge and + skill has been expended here to produce a superb result. It fills the entire + centre of the building, extending up to the roof and surmounted by a splendid + dome. On three sides a gallery runs round it supported by pillars. To this + gallery you ascend on the fourth side by a staircase, which midway has a broad, + flat landing, from which stairs ascend, on the right and left, into the + gallery. The whole hall and staircase, carpeted with a scarlet footcloth, give + a broad, rich mass of coloring, throwing out finely the statuary and gilded + balustrades. On the landing is a marble statue of a Sibyl, by Rinaldi. The + walls are adorned by gorgeous frescos from Paul Veronese. What is peculiar in + the arrangements of this hall is, that although so extensive, it still wears an + air of warm homelikeness and comfort, as if it might be a delightful place to + lounge and enjoy life, amid the ottomans, sofas, pictures, and statuary, which + are disposed here and there throughout.</p> + <p class="dgp">All this, however, I passed rapidly by as I ascended the + staircase, and passed onward to the picture gallery. This was a room about a + hundred feet long by forty wide, surmounted by a dome gorgeously finished with + golden palm, trees and carving. This hall is lighted in the evening by a row of + gaslights placed outside the ground glass of the dome; this light is + concentrated and thrown down by strong reflectors, communicating thus the most + brilliant radiance without the usual heat of gas. This gallery is peculiarly + rich in paintings of the Spanish school. Among them are two superb Murillos, + taken from convents by Marshal Soult, during the time of his career in + Spain.</p> + <p class="dgp">There was a painting by Paul de la Roche of the Earl of + Strafford led forth to execution, engravings of which we have seen in the print + shops in America. It is a strong and striking picture, and has great dramatic + effect. But there was a painting in one corner by a Flemish artist, whose name + I do not now remember, representing Christ under examination before Caiaphas. + It was a candle-light scene, and only two faces were very distinct; the + downcast, calm, resolute face of Christ, in which was written a perfect + knowledge of his approaching doom, and the eager, perturbed vehemence of the + high priest, who was interrogating him. On the frame was engraved the + lines,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"He was wounded for our transgressions,</p> + <p class="l">He was bruised for our iniquities;</p> + <p class="l">The chastisement of our peace was upon him,</p> + <p class="l">And with his stripes we are healed."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">The presence of this picture here in the midst of this + scene was very affecting to me.</p> + <p class="dgp">The company now began to assemble and throng the gallery, and + very soon the vast room was crowded. Among the throng I remember many + presentations, but of course must have forgotten many more. Archbishop Whately + was there, with Mrs. and Miss Whately; Macaulay, with two of his sisters; + Milman, the poet and historian; the Bishop of Oxford, Chevalier Bunsen and + lady, and many more.</p> + <p class="dgp">When all the company were together Lord Shaftesbury read a very + short, kind, and considerate address in behalf of the ladies of England, + expressive of their cordial welcome. The address will be seen in the Morning + Advertiser, which I send you. The company remained a while after this, walking + through the rooms and conversing in different groups, and I talked with + several. Archbishop Whately, I thought, seemed rather inclined to be jocose: he + seems to me like some of our American divines; a man who pays little attention + to forms, and does not value them. There is a kind of brusque humor in his + address, a downright heartiness, which reminds one of western character. If he + had been born in our latitude, in Kentucky or Wisconsin, the natives would have + called him Whately, and said he was a real steamboat on an argument. This is + not precisely the kind of man we look for in an archbishop. One sees traces of + this humor in his Historic Doubts concerning the Existence of Napoleon. I + conversed with some who knew him intimately, and they said that he delighted in + puns and odd turns of language.</p> + <p class="dgp">I was also introduced to the Bishop of Oxford, who is a son of + Wilberforce. He is a short man, of very youthful appearance, with bland, + graceful, courteous manners. He is much admired as a speaker. I heard him + spoken of as one of the most popular preachers of the day.</p> + <p class="dgp">I must not forget to say that many ladies of the society of + Friends were here, and one came and put on to my arm a reticule, in which, she + said, were carried about the very first antislavery tracts ever distributed in + England. At that time the subject of antislavery was as unpopular in England as + it can be at this day any where in the world, and I trust that a day will come + when the subject will be as popular in South Carolina as it is now in England. + People always glory in the right after they have done it.</p> + <p class="dgp">After a while the company dispersed over the house to look at + the rooms. There are all sorts of parlors and reception rooms, furnished with + the same correct taste. Each room had its predominant color; among them blue + was a particular favorite.</p> + <p class="dgp">The carpets were all of those small figures I have described, + the blue ones being of the same pattern with the green. The idea, I suppose, is + to produce a mass of color of a certain tone, and not to distract the eye with + the complicated pattern. Where so many objects of art and <em>virtu</em> are to + be exhibited, without this care in regulating and simplifying the ground tints, + there would be no unity in the impression. This was my philosophizing on the + matter, and if it is not the reason why it is done, it ought to be. It is as + good a theory as most theories, at any rate.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before we went away I made a little call on the Lady Constance + Grosvenor, and saw the future Marquis of Westminster, heir to the largest + estate in England. His beautiful mother is celebrated in the annals of the + court journal as one of the handsomest ladies in England. His little lordship + was presented to me in all the dignity of long, embroidered clothes, being + then, I believe, not quite a fortnight old, and I can assure you that he + demeaned himself with a gravity becoming his rank and expectations.</p> + <p class="dgp">There is a more than common interest attached to these children + by one who watches the present state of the world. On the character and + education of the princes and nobility of this generation the future history of + England must greatly depend.</p> + <p class="dgp">This Stafford House meeting, in any view of it, is a most + remarkable fact. Kind and gratifying as its arrangements have been to me, I am + far from appropriating it to myself individually, as a personal honor. I rather + regard it as the most public expression possible of the feelings of the women + of England on one of the most important questions of our day—that, of + individual liberty considered in its religious bearings.</p> + <p class="dgp">The most splendid of England's palaces has this day opened its + doors to the slave. Its treasures of wealth and of art, its prestige of high + name and historic memories, have been consecrated to the acknowledgment of + Christianity in that form, wherein, in our day, it is most frequently + denied—the recognition of the brotherhood of the human family, and the + equal religious value of every human soul. A fair and noble hand by this + meeting has fixed, in the most public manner, an ineffaceable seal to the + beautiful sentiments of that most Christian document, the letter of the ladies + of Great Britain to the ladies of America. That letter and this public + attestation of it are now historic facts, which wait their time and the + judgment of advancing Christianity.</p> + <p class="dgp">Concerning that letter I have one or two things to say. Nothing + can be more false than the insinuation that has been thrown out in some + American papers, that it was a political movement. It had its first origin in + the deep religious feelings of the man whose whole life has been devoted to the + abolition of the white-labor slavery of Great Britain; the man whose eye + explored the darkness of the collieries, and counted the weary steps of the + cotton spinners—who penetrated the dens where the insane were tortured + with darkness, and cold, and stripes; and threaded the loathsome alleys of + London, haunts of fever and cholera: this man it was, whose heart was + overwhelmed by the tale of American slavery, and who could find no relief from, + this distress except in raising some voice to the ear of Christianity. Fearful + of the jealousy of political interference, Lord Shaftesbury published an + address to the ladies of England, in which he told them that he felt himself + moved by an irresistible impulse to entreat them to raise their voice, in the + name of a common Christianity and womanhood, to their American sisters. The + abuse which has fallen upon him for this most Christian proceeding does not in + the least surprise him, because it is of the kind that has always met him in + every benevolent movement. When in the Parliament of England he was pleading + for women in the collieries who were harnessed like beasts of burden, and made + to draw heavy loads through miry and dark passages, and for children who were + taken at three years old to labor where the sun never shines, he was met with + determined and furious opposition and obloquy—accused of being a + disorganizer, and of wishing to restore the dark ages. Very similar accusations + have attended all his efforts for the laboring classes during the long course + of seventeen years, which resulted at last in the triumphant passage of the + factory bill.</p> + <p class="dgp">We in America ought to remember that the gentle remonstrance of + the letter of the ladies of England contains, in the mildest form, the + sentiments of universal Christendom. Rebukes much more pointed are coming back + to us even from, our own missionaries. A day is coming when, past all the + temporary currents of worldly excitement, we shall, each of us, stand alone + face to face with the perfect purity of our Redeemer. The thought of such a + final interview ought certainly to modify all our judgments now, that we may + strive to approve only what we shall then approve.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_34" name="toc_34"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVII</h2> + <p class="noindent">LETTER XVII.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + C.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">As to those ridiculous stories about the Duchess of Sutherland, + which have found their way into many of the prints in America, one has only to + be here, moving in society, to see how excessively absurd they are.</p> + <p class="dgp">All my way through Scotland, and through England, I was + associating, from day to day, with people of every religious denomination, and + every rank of life. I have been with, dissenters and with churchmen; with the + national Presbyterian church and the free Presbyterian; with Quakers and + Baptists.</p> + <p class="dgp">In all these circles I have heard the great and noble of the + land freely spoken of and canvassed, and if there had been the least shadow of + a foundation for any such accusations, I certainly should have heard it + recognized in some manner. If in no other, such warm friends as I have heard + speak would have alluded to the subject in the way of defence; but I have + actually never heard any allusion of any sort, as if there was any thing to be + explained or accounted for.</p> + <p class="dgp">As I have before intimated, the Howard family, to which the + duchess belongs, is one which has always been on the side of popular rights and + popular reform. Lord Carlisle, her brother, has been a leader of the people, + particularly during the time of the corn-law reformation, and <em>she</em> has + been known to take a wide and generous interest in all these subjects. Every + where that I have moved through Scotland and England I have heard her kindness + of heart, her affability of manner, and her attention to the feelings of others + spoken of as marked characteristics.</p> + <p class="dgp">Imagine, then, what people must think when they find in + respectable American prints the absurd story of her turning her tenants out + into the snow, and ordering the cottages to be set on fire over their heads + because they would not go out.</p> + <p class="dgp">But, if you ask how such an absurd story could ever have been + made up, whether there is the least foundation to make it on, I answer, that it + is the exaggerated report of a movement made by the present Duke of + Sutherland's father, in the year 1811, and which was part of a great movement + that passed through, the Highlands of Scotland, when the advancing progress of + civilization began to make it necessary to change the estates from military to + agricultural establishments.</p> + <p class="dgp">Soon after the union of the crowns of England and Scotland, the + border chiefs found it profitable to adopt upon their estates that system, of + agriculture to which their hills were adapted, rather than to continue the + maintenance of military retainers. Instead of keeping garrisons, with small + armies, in a district, they decided to keep only so many as could profitably + cultivate the land. The effect of this, of course, was like disbanding an army. + It threw many people out of employ, and forced them to seek for a home + elsewhere. Like many other movements which, in their final results, are + beneficial to society, this was at first vehemently resisted, and had to be + carried into effect in some cases by force. As I have said, it began first in + the southern counties of Scotland, soon after the union of the English and + Scottish crowns, and gradually crept northward—one county after another + yielding to the change. To a certain extent, as it progressed northward, the + demand for labor in the great towns absorbed the surplus population; but when + it came into the extreme Highlands, this refuge was wanting. Emigration to + America now became the resource; and the surplus population were induced to + this by means such as the Colonization Society now recommends and approves for + promoting emigration to Liberia.</p> + <p class="dgp">The first farm that was so formed on the Sutherland estate was + in 1806. The great change was made in 1811-12, and completed in 1819-20.</p> + <p class="dgp">The Sutherland estates are in the most northern portion of + Scotland. The distance of this district from the more advanced parts of the + kingdom, the total want of roads, the unfrequent communication by sea, and the + want of towns, made it necessary to adopt a different course in regard to the + location of the Sutherland population from that which circumstances had + provided in other parts of Scotland, where they had been removed from the bleak + and uncultivable mountains. They had lots given them near the sea, or in more + fertile spots, where, by labor and industry, they might maintain themselves. + They had two years allowed them for preparing for the change, without payment + of rent. Timber for their houses was given, and many other facilities for + assisting their change.</p> + <p class="dgp">The general agent of the Sutherland estate is Mr. Loch. In a + speech of this gentleman in the House of Commons, on the second reading of the + Scotch poor-law bill, June 12, 1845, he states the following fact with regard + to the management of the Sutherland estate during this period, from 1811 to + 1833, which certainly can speak for itself: "I can state as from fact that, + from 1811 to 1833, not one sixpence of rent has been received from that county, + but, on the contrary, there has been sent there, for the benefit and + improvement of the people, a sum exceeding sixty thousand pounds."</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. Loch goes on in the same speech to say, "There is no set of + people more industrious than the people of Sutherland. Thirty years since they + were engaged in illegal distillation to a very great extent; at the present + moment there is not, I believe, an illegal still in the county. Their morals + have improved as those habits have been abandoned; and they have added many + hundreds, I believe thousands, of acres to the land in cultivation since they + were placed upon the shore.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Previous to that change to which I have referred, they exported + very few cattle, and hardly any thing else. They were, also, every now and + then, exposed to all the difficulties of extreme famine. In the years 1812-13, + and 1816-17, so great was the misery that it was necessary to send down oatmeal + for their supply to the amount of nine thousand pounds, and that was given to + the people. But, since industrious habits were introduced, and they were + settled within reach of fishing, no such calamity has overtaken them. Their + condition was then so low that they were obliged to bleed their cattle, during + the winter, and mix the blood with the remnant of meal they had, in order to + save them from starvation.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Since then the country has improved so much that the fish, in + particular, which they exported, in 1815, from one village alone, Helmsdale, + (which, previous to 1811, did not exist,) amounted to five thousand three + hundred and eighteen barrels of herring, and in 1844 thirty-seven thousand five + hundred and ninety-four barrels, giving employment to about three thousand nine + hundred people. This extends over the whole of the county, in which fifty-six + thousand barrels were cured.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Do not let me be supposed to say that there are not cases + requiring attention: it must be so in a large population; but there can be no + means taken by a landlord, or by those under him, that are not bestowed upon + that tenantry.</p> + <p class="dgp">"It has been said that the contribution by the heritor (the + duke) to one kirk session for the poor was but six pounds. Now, in the eight + parishes which are called Sutherland proper, the amount of the contribution of + the Duke of Sutherland to the kirk session is forty-two pounds a year. That is + a very small sum but that sum merely is so given because the landlord thinks + that he can distribute his charity in a more beneficial manner to the people; + and the amount of charity which he gives—and which, I may say, is settled + on them, for it is given regularly—is above four hundred and fifty pounds + a year.</p> + <p class="dgp">"Therefore the statements that have been made, so far from being + correct, are in every way an exaggeration of what is the fact. No portion of + the kingdom has advanced in prosperity so much; and if the honorable member + (Mr. S. Crawford) will go down there, I will give him every facility for seeing + the state of the people, and he shall judge with his own eyes whether my + representation be not correct. I could go through a great many other + particulars, but I will not trouble the house now with them. The statements I + have made are accurate, and I am quite ready to prove them in any way that is + necessary."</p> + <p class="dgp">This same Mr. Loch has published a pamphlet, in which he has + traced out the effects of the system pursued on the Sutherland estate, in many + very important particulars. It appears from this that previously to 1811 the + people were generally sub-tenants to middle men, who exacted high rents, and + also various perquisites, such as the delivery of poultry and eggs, giving so + many days' labor in harvest time, cutting and carrying peat and stones for + building.</p> + <p class="dgp">Since 1811 the people have become immediate tenants, at a + greatly diminished rate of rent, and released from all these exactions. For + instance, in two parishes, in 1812, the rents were one thousand five hundred + and ninety-three pounds, and in 1823 they were only nine hundred and + seventy-two pounds. In another parish the reduction of rents has amounted, on + an average, to thirty-six per cent. Previous to 1811 the houses were turf huts + of the poorest description, in many instances the cattle being kept under the + same roof with the family. Since 1811 a large proportion, of their houses have + been rebuilt in a superior manner—the landlord having paid them for their + old timber where it could not be moved, and having also contributed the new + timber, with lime.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before 1811 all the rents of the estates were used for the + personal profit of the landlord; but since that time, both by the present duke + and his father, all the rents have been expended on improvements in the county, + besides sixty thousand pounds more which have been remitted from. England for + the purpose. This money has been spent on churches, school houses, harbors, + public inns, roads, and bridges.</p> + <p class="dgp">In 1811 there was not a carriage road in the county, and only + two bridges. Since that time four hundred and thirty miles of road have been + constructed on the estate, at the expense of the proprietor and tenants. There + is not a turnpike gate in the county, and yet the roads are kept perfect.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before 1811 the mail was conveyed entirely by a foot runner, and + there was but one post office in the county; and there was no direct post + across the county, but letters to the north and west were forwarded once a + month. A mail coach has since been established, to which the late Duke of + Sutherland contributed more than two thousand six hundred pounds; and since + 1834 mail gigs have been established to convey letters to the north and west + coast, towards which the Duke of Sutherland contributes three hundred pounds a + year. There are thirteen post offices and sub-offices in the county. Before + 1811 there was no inn in the county fit for the reception of strangers. Since + that time there have been fourteen inns either built or enlarged by the + duke.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there was scarcely a cart on the estate; all the + carriage was done on the backs of ponies. The cultivation of the interior was + generally executed with a rude kind of spade, and there was not a gig in the + county. In 1845 there were one thousand one hundred and thirty carts owned on + the estate, and seven hundred and eight ploughs, also forty-one gigs.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before 1812 there was no baker, and only two shops. In 1845 + there were eight bakers and forty-six grocer's shops, in nearly all of which + shoe blacking was sold to some extent, an unmistakable evidence of advancing + civilization.</p> + <p class="dgp">In 1808 the cultivation of the coast side of Sutherland was so + defective that it was necessary often, in a fall of snow, to cut down the young + Scotch firs to feed the cattle on; and in 1808 hay had to be imported. + <em>Now</em> the coast side of Sutherland exhibits an extensive district of + land cultivated according to the best principles of modern agriculture; several + thousand acres have been added to the arable land by these improvements.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there were no woodlands of any extent on the estate, + and timber had to be obtained from a distance. Since that time many thousand + acres of woodland have been planted, the thinnings of which, being sold to the + people at a moderate rate, have greatly increased their comfort and improved + their domestic arrangements.</p> + <p class="dgp">Before 1811 there were only two blacksmiths in the county. In + 1845 there were forty-two blacksmiths and sixty-three carpenters. Before 1829 + the exports of the county consisted of black cattle of an inferior description, + pickled salmon, and some ponies; but these were precarious sources of profit, + as many died in winter for want of food; for example, in the spring of 1807 two + hundred cows, five hundred cattle, and more than two hundred ponies died in the + parish of Kildonan alone. Since that time the measures pursued by the Duke of + Sutherland, in introducing improved breeds of cattle, pigs, and modes of + agriculture, have produced results in exports which tell their own story. About + forty thousand sheep and one hundred and eighty thousand fleeces of wool are + exported annually; also fifty thousand barrels of herring.</p> + <p class="dgp">The whole fishing village of Helmsdale has been built since that + time. It now contains from thirteen to fifteen curing yards covered with slate, + and several streets with houses similarly built. The herring fishery, which has + been mentioned as so productive, has been established since the change, and + affords employment to three thousand nine hundred people.</p> + <p class="dgp">Since 1811, also, a savings bank has been established in every + parish, of which the Duke of Sutherland is patron and treasurer, and the + savings have been very considerable.</p> + <p class="dgp">The education of the children of the people has been a subject + of deep interest to the Duke of Sutherland. Besides the parochial schools, + (which answer, I suppose, to our district schools,) of which the greater number + have been rebuilt or repaired at an expense exceeding what is legally required + for such purposes, the Duke of Sutherland contributes to the support of several + schools for young females, at which sewing and other branches of education are + taught; and in 1844 he agreed to establish twelve general assembly schools in + such parts of the county as were without the sphere of the parochial schools, + and to build school and schoolmasters' houses, which will, upon an average, + cost two hundred pounds each; and to contribute annually two hundred pounds in + aid of salaries to the teachers, besides a garden and cows' grass; and in 1845 + he made an arrangement with the education committee of the Free church, whereby + no child, of whatever persuasion, will be beyond the reach of moral and + religious education.</p> + <p class="dgp">There are five medical gentlemen on the estate, three of whom + receive allowances from the Duke of Sutherland for attendance on the poor in + the districts in which they reside.</p> + <p class="dgp">An agricultural association, or farmers' club, has been formed + under the patronage of the Duke of Sutherland, of which the other proprietors + in the county, and the larger tenantry, are members, which is in a very active + and flourishing state. They have recently invited Professor Johnston to visit + Sutherland, and give lectures on agricultural chemistry.</p> + <p class="dgp">The total population of the Sutherland estate is twenty-one + thousand seven hundred and eighty-four. To have the charge and care of so large + an estate, of course, must require very systematic arrangements; but a talent + for system seems to be rather the forte of the English.</p> + <p class="dgp">The estate is first divided into three districts, and each + district is under the superintendence of a factor, who communicates with the + duke through a general agent. Besides this, when the duke is on the estate, + which is during a portion of every year, he receives on Monday whoever of his + tenants wishes to see him. Their complaints or wishes are presented in writing; + he takes them into consideration, and gives written replies.</p> + <p class="dgp">Besides the three factors there is a ground officer, or + sub-factor, in every parish, and an agriculturist in the Dunrobin district, who + gives particular attention to instructing the people in the best methods of + farming. The factors, the ground officers, and the agriculturists all work to + one common end. They teach the advantages of draining; of ploughing deep, and + forming their ridges in straight lines; of constructing tanks for saving liquid + manure. The young farmers also pick up a great deal of knowledge when working + as ploughmen or laborers on the more immediate grounds of the estate.</p> + <p class="dgp">The head agent, Mr. Loch, has been kind enough to put into my + hands a general report of the condition of the estate, which he drew up for the + inspection of the duke, May 12, 1853, and in which he goes minutely over the + condition of every part of the estate.</p> + <p class="dgp">One anecdote of the former Duke of Sutherland will show the + spirit which has influenced the family in their management of the estate. In + 1817, when there was much suffering on account of bad seasons, the Duke of + Sutherland sent down his chief agent to look into the condition of the people, + who desired the ministers of the parishes to send in their lists of the poor. + To his surprise it was found that there were located on the estate a number of + people who had settled there without leave. They amounted to four hundred and + eight families, or two thousand persons; and though they had no legal title to + remain where they were, no hesitation was shown in supplying them with food in + the same manner with those who were tenants, on the sole condition that on the + first opportunity they should take cottages on the sea shore, and become + industrious people. It was the constant object of the duke to keep the rents of + his poorer tenants at a nominal amount.</p> + <p class="dgp">What led me more particularly to inquire into these facts was, + that I received by mail, while in London, an account containing some of these + stories, which had been industriously circulated in America. There were + dreadful accounts of cruelties practised in the process of inducing the tenants + to change their places of residence. The following is a specimen of these + stories:—</p> + <div class="display"> + <p class="noindent">"I was present at the pulling down and burning of the + house of William Chisholm, Badinloskin, in which was lying his wife's mother, + an old, bed-ridden woman of near one hundred years of age, none of the family + being present. I informed the persons about to set fire to the house of this + circumstance, and prevailed on them to wait till Mr. Sellar came. On his + arrival I told him of the poor old woman being in a condition unfit for + removal. He replied, 'Damn her, the old witch, she has lived too long; let + her burn.' Fire was immediately set to the house, and the blankets in which + she was carried were in flames before she could be got out. She was placed in + a little shed, and it was with great difficulty they were prevented from + firing that also. The old woman's daughter arrived while the house was on + fire, and assisted the neighbors in removing her mother out of the flames and + smoke, presenting a picture of horror which I shall never forget, but cannot + attempt to describe. She died within five days."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">With regard to this story Mr. Loch, the agent, says, "I + must notice the only thing like a fact stated in the newspaper extract which + you sent to me, wherein Mr. Sellar is accused of acts of cruelty towards some + of the people. This Mr. Sellar tested, by bringing an action against the then + sheriff substitute of the county. He obtained a verdict for heavy damages. The + sheriff, by whom, the slander was propagated, left the county. Both are since + dead."</p> + <p class="dgp">Having, through Lord Shaftesbury's kindness, received the + benefit of Mr. Loch's corrections to this statement, I am permitted to make a + little further extract from his reply. He says,—</p> + <p class="dgp">"In addition to what I was able to say in my former paper, I can + now state that the Duke of Sutherland has received, from, one of the most + determined opposers of the measure, who travelled to the north of Scotland as + editor of a newspaper, a letter regretting all he had written on the subject, + being convinced that he was entirely misinformed. As you take so much interest + in the subject, I will conclude by saying that nothing could exceed the + prosperity of the county during the past year; their stock, sheep, and other + things sold at high prices; their crops of grain and turnips were never so + good, and the potatoes were free from all disease; rents have been paid better + than was ever known. * * * As an instance of the improved habits of the + farmers, no house is now built for them that they do not require a hot bath and + water closets."</p> + <p class="dgp">From this long epitome you can gather the following results; + first, if the system were a bad one, the Duchess of Sutherland had nothing to + do with it, since it was first introduced in 1806, the same year her grace was + born; and the accusation against Mr. Sellar dates in 1811, when her grace was + five or six years old. The Sutherland arrangements were completed in 1819, and + her grace was not married to the duke till 1823, so that, had the arrangement + been the worst in the world, it is nothing to the purpose so far as she is + concerned.</p> + <p class="dgp">As to whether the arrangement <em>is</em> a bad one, the facts + which have been stated speak for themselves. To my view it is an almost sublime + instance of the benevolent employment of superior wealth and power in + shortening the struggles of advancing civilization, and elevating in a few + years a whole community to a point of education and material prosperity, which, + unassisted, they might never have obtained.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + <div class="div"> + <a id="toc_35" name="toc_35"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Letter XVIII</h2> + <p class="noindent" style="text-align: right"><span class="hi" + style="font-variant: small-caps;">London</span>, Sunday, May 8.</p> + <p class="dgp"><span class="hi" style="font-variant: small-caps;">My Dear + S.</span>:—</p> + <p class="dgp">Mr. S. is very unwell, in bed, worn out with, the threefold + labor of making and receiving calls, visiting, and delivering public addresses. + C. went to hear Dr. McNeile, of Liverpool, preach—one of the leading men + of the established church evangelical party, a strong millenarian. C. said that + he was as fine a looking person in canonicals as he ever saw in the pulpit. In + doctrine he is what we in America should call very strong old school. I went, + as I had always predetermined to do, if ever I came to London, to hear Baptist + Noel, drawn thither by the melody and memory of those beautiful hymns of his<a + href="#note_14"><span class="footnoteref">14</span></a>, which must meet a + response in every Christian heart. He is tall and well formed, with one of the + most classical and harmonious heads I ever saw. Singularly enough, he reminded + me of a bust of Achilles at the London Museum. He is indeed a swift-footed + Achilles, but in another race, another warfare. Born of a noble family, + naturally endowed with sensitiveness and ideality to appreciate all the + amenities and suavities of that brilliant sphere, the sacrifice must have been + inconceivably great for him to renounce favor and preferment, position in + society,—which, here in England, means more than Americans can ever dream + of,—to descend from being a court chaplain, to become a preacher in a + Baptist dissenting chapel. Whatever may be thought of the correctness of the + intellectual conclusions which led him to such a step, no one can fail to + revere the strength and purity of principle which could prompt to such + sacrifices. Many, perhaps, might have preferred that he should have chosen a + less decided course. But if his judgment really led to these results, I see no + way in which it was possible for him to have avoided it. It was with an emotion + of reverence that I contrasted the bareness, plainness, and poverty of the + little chapel with that evident air of elegance and cultivation which appeared + in all that he said and did. The sermon was on the text, "Now abideth faith, + hope, and charity, these three." Naturally enough, the subject divided itself + into faith, hope, and charity.</p> + <p class="dgp">His style calm, flowing, and perfectly harmonious, his delivery + serene and graceful, the whole flowed over one like a calm and clear strain of + music. It was a sermon after the style of Tholuck and other German sermonizers, + who seem to hold that the purpose of preaching is not to rouse the soul by an + antagonistic struggle with sin through the reason, but to soothe the passions, + quiet the will, and bring the mind into a frame in which it shall incline to + follow its own convictions of duty. They take for granted, that the reason why + men sin is not because they are ignorant, but because they are distracted and + tempted by passion; that they do not need so much to be told what is their + duty, as persuaded to do it. To me, brought up on the very battle field of + controversial theology, accustomed to hear every religious idea guarded by + definitions, and thoroughly hammered on a logical anvil before the preacher + thought of making any use of it for heart or conscience, though I enjoyed the + discourse extremely, I could not help wondering what an American theological + professor would make of such a sermon.</p> + <p class="dgp">To preach on faith, hope, and charity all in one + discourse—why, we should have six sermons on the nature of faith to begin + with: on speculative faith; saving faith; practical faith, and the faith of + miracles; then we should have the laws of faith, and the connection of faith + with evidence, and the nature of evidence, and the different kinds of evidence, + and so on. For my part I have had a suspicion since I have been here, that a + touch of this kind of thing might improve English preaching; as, also, I do + think that sermons of the kind I have described would be useful, by way of + alterative, among us. If I could have but one of the two manners, I should + prefer our own, because I think that this habit of preaching is one of the + strongest educational forces that forms the mind of our country.</p> + <p class="dgp">After the service was over I went into the vestry, and was + introduced to Mr. Noel. The congregation of the established church, to which he + ministered during his connection with it, are still warmly attached to him. His + leaving them was a dreadful trial; some of them can scarcely mention his name + without tears. C. says, with regard to the church singing, as far as he heard + it, it is twenty years behind that in Boston. In the afternoon I staid at home + to nurse Mr. S. A note from Lady John Russell inviting us there.</p> + <p class="dgp">Monday, May 9. I should tell you that at the Duchess of + Sutherland's an artist, named Burnard, presented me with a very fine cameo head + of Wilberforce, cut from a statue in Westminster Abbey. He is from Cornwall, in + the south of England, and has attained some celebrity as an artist. He wanted + to take a bust of me; and though it always makes me laugh to think of having a + new likeness, considering the melancholy results of all former enterprises, yet + still I find myself easy to be entreated, in hopes, as Mr. Micawber says, that + something may "turn up," though I fear the difficulty is radical in the + subject. So I made an appointment with Mr. Burnard, and my very kind friend, + Mr. B., in addition to all the other confusions I have occasioned in his + mansion, consented to have his study turned into a studio. Upon the heels of + this comes another sculptor, who has a bust begun, which he says is going to be + finished in Parian, and published whether I sit for it or not, though, of + course, he would much prefer to get a look at me now and then. Well, Mr. B. + says he may come, too; so there you may imagine me in the study, perched upon a + very high stool, dividing my glances between the two sculptors, one of whom, is + taking one side of my face, and one the other.</p> + <p class="dgp">To-day I went with Mr. and Mrs. B. to hear the examination of a + borough-school for boys. Mrs. B. told me it was not precisely a charity school, + but one where the means of education were furnished at so cheap a rate, that + the poorest classes could enjoy them. Arrived at the hall, we found quite a + number of <em>distingués</em>, bishops, lords, and clergy, besides + numbers of others assembled to hear. The room was hung round with the drawings + of the boys, and specimens of handwriting. I was quite astonished at some of + them. They were executed by pen, pencil, or crayon—drawings of machinery, + landscapes, heads, groups, and flowers, all in a style which any parent among + us would be proud to exhibit, if done by our own children. The boys looked very + bright and intelligent, and I was delighted with the system, of instruction + which had evidently been pursued with them. We heard them first in the reading + and recitation of poetry; after that in arithmetic and algebra, then in natural + philosophy, and last, and most satisfactorily, in the Bible. It was perfectly + evident from the nature of the questions and answers, that it was not a crammed + examination, and that the readiness of reply proceeded not from a mere + commitment of words, but from a system of intellectual training, which led to a + good understanding of the subject. In arithmetic and algebra the answers were + so remarkable as to induce the belief in some that the boys must have been + privately prepared on their questions; but the teacher desired Lord John + Russell to write down any number of questions which he wished to have given to + the toys to solve, from his own mind. Lord John wrote down two or three + problems, and I was amused at the zeal and avidity with which the boys seized + upon and mastered them. Young England was evidently wide awake, and the prime + minister himself was not to catch them, napping. The little fellows' + eyes-glistened as they rattled off their solutions. As I know nothing about + mathematics, I was all the more impressed; but when they came to be examined in + the Bible, I was more astonished than ever. The masters had said that they + would be willing any of the gentlemen should question them, and Mr. B. + commenced a course of questions on the doctrines of Christianity; asking, Is + there any text by which you can prove this, or that? and immediately, with + great accuracy, the boys would cite text upon text, quoting not only the more + obvious ones, but sometimes applying Scripture with an ingenuity and force + which I had not thought of, and always quoting chapter and verse of every text. + I do not know who is at the head of this teaching, nor how far it is a sample + of English schools; but I know that these boys had been wonderfully well + taught, and I felt all my old professional enthusiasm arising.</p> + <p class="dgp">After the examination Lord John came forward, and gave the boys + a good fatherly talk. He told them that they had the happiness to live under a + free government, where all offices are alike open to industry and merit, and + where any boy might hope by application and talent to rise to any station below + that of the sovereign. He made some sensible, practical comments, on their + Scripture lessons, and, in short, gave precisely such a kind of address as one + of our New England judges or governors might to schoolboys in similar + circumstances. Lord John hesitates a little in his delivery, but has a plain, + common-sense way of "speaking right on," which seems to be taking. He is a very + simple man in his manners, apparently not at all self-conscious, and entered + into the feelings of the boys and the masters with good-natured sympathy, which + was very winning. I should think he was one of the kind of men who are always + perfectly easy and self-possessed let what will come, and who never could be + placed in a situation in which he did not feel himself quite at home, and + perfectly competent to do whatever was to be done.</p> + <p class="dgp">To-day the Duchess of Sutherland called with the Duchess of + Argyle. Miss Greenfield happened to be present, and I begged leave to present + her, giving a slight sketch of her history. I was pleased with the kind and + easy affability with which the Duchess of Sutherland conversed with her, + betraying by no inflection of voice, and nothing in air or manner, the great + lady talking with the poor girl. She asked all her questions with as much + delicacy, and made her request to hear her sing with as much consideration and + politeness, as if she had been addressing any one in her own circle. She seemed + much pleased with her singing, and remarked that she should be happy to give + her an opportunity of performing in Stafford House, so soon as she should be a + little relieved of a heavy cold which seemed to oppress her at present. This, + of course, will be decisive in her favor in London. The duchess is to let us + know when the arrangement is completed.</p> + <p class="dgp">I never realized so much that there really is no natural + prejudice against color in the human mind. Miss Greenfield is a dark + mulattress, of a pleasing and gentle face, though by no means handsome. She is + short and thick set, with a chest of great amplitude, as one would think on + hearing her tenor. I have never seen in any of the persons to whom I have + presented her the least indications of suppressed surprise or disgust, any more + than we should exhibit on the reception of a dark-complexioned Spaniard or + Portuguese. Miss Greenfield bears her success with much quietness and good + sense.</p> + <p class="dgp">Tuesday, May 10. C. and I were to go to-day, with Mrs. Cropper + and Lady Hatherton, to call on the poet Rogers. I was told that he was in very + delicate health, but that he still received friends at his house. We found the + house a perfect cabinet collection of the most rare and costly works of + art—choicest marbles, vases, pictures, gems, and statuary met the eye + every where. We spent the time in examining some of these while the servant + went to announce us. The mild and venerable old man himself was the choicest + picture of all. He has a splendid head, a benign face, and reminded me of an + engraving I once saw of Titian. He seemed very glad to see us, spoke to me of + the gathering at Stafford House, and asked me what I thought of the place. When + I expressed my admiration, he said, "Ah, I have often said it is a fairy + palace, and that the duchess is the good fairy." Again, he said, "I have seen + all the palaces of Europe, but there is none that I prefer to this." Quite a + large circle of friends now came in and were presented. He did not rise to + receive them, but sat back in his easy chair, and conversed quietly with us + all, sparkling out now and then in a little ripple of playfulness. In this room + were his best beloved pictures, and it is his pleasure to show them to his + friends.</p> + <p class="dgp">By a contrivance quite new to me, the pictures are made to + revolve on a pivot, so that by touching a spring they move out from the wall, + and can be seen in different lights. There was a picture over the mantel-piece + of a Roman Triumphal Procession, painted by Rubens, which attracted my + attention by its rich coloring and spirited representation of animals.</p> + <p class="dgp">The coloring of Rubens always satisfies my eye better than that + of any other master, only a sort of want of grace in the conception disturbs + me. In this case both conception and coloring are replete with beauty. Rogers + seems to be carefully waited on by an attendant who has learned to interpret + every motion and anticipate every desire.</p> + <p class="dgp">I took leave of him with a touch of sadness. Of all the + brilliant circle of poets, which has so delighted us, he is the last—and + he so feeble! His memories, I am told, extend back to a personal knowledge of + Dr. Johnson. How I should like to sit by him, and search into that cabinet of + recollections! He presented me his poems, beautifully illustrated by Turner, + with his own autograph on the fly leaf. He writes still a clear, firm, + beautiful hand, like a lady's.</p> + <p class="dgp">After that, we all went over to Stafford House, and the Duke and + Duchess of Sutherland went with us into Lord Ellesmere's collection adjoining. + Lord Ellesmere sails for America to-day, to be present at the opening of the + Crystal Palace. He left us a very polite message. The Duchess of Argyle, with + her two little boys, was there also. Lord Carlisle very soon came in, and with + him—who do you think? Tell Hattie and Eliza if they could have seen the + noble staghound that came bounding in with him, they would have turned from all + the pictures on the wall to this living work of art.</p> + <p class="dgp">Landseer thinks he does well when he paints a dog; another man + chisels one in stone: what would they think of themselves if they could string + the nerves and muscles, and wake up the affections and instincts, of the real, + living creature? That were to be an artist indeed! The dog walked about the + gallery, much at home, putting his nose up first to one and then another of the + distinguished persons by whom he was surrounded; and once in a while stopping, + in an easy race about the hall, would plant himself before a picture, with his + head on one side, and an air of high-bred approval, much as I have seen young + gentlemen do in similar circumstances. All he wanted was an eyeglass, and he + would have been perfectly set up as a critic.</p> + <p class="dgp">As for the pictures, I have purposely delayed coming to them. + Imagine a botanist dropped into the middle of a blooming prairie, waving with + unnumbered dyes and forms of flowers, and only an hour to examine and make + acquaintance with them! Room, after room we passed, filled with Titians, + Murillos, Guidos, &c. There were four Raphaels, the first I had ever seen. + Must I confess the truth? Raphael had been my dream for years. I expected + something which would overcome and bewilder me. I expected a divine baptism, a + celestial mesmerism; and I found four very beautiful pictures—pictures + which left me quite in possession of my senses, and at liberty to ask myself, + am I pleased, and how much? It was not that I did not admire, for I did; but + that I did not admire enough. The pictures are all holy families, cabinet size: + the figures, Mary, Joseph, the infant Jesus, and John, in various attitudes. A + little perverse imp in my heart suggested the questions, "If a modern artist + had painted these, what would be thought of them? If I did not know it was + Raphael, what should I think?" And I confess that, in that case, I should think + that there was in one or two of them a certain hardness and sharpness of + outline that was not pleasing to me. Neither, any more than Murillo, has he in + these pictures shadowed forth, to my eye, the idea of Mary. Protestant as I am, + no Catholic picture contents me. I thought to myself that I had seen among + living women, and in a face not far off, a nobler and sweeter idea of + womanhood.</p> + <p class="dgp">It is too much to ask of any earthly artist, however, to gratify + the aspirations and cravings of those who have dreamed of them for years + unsatisfied. Perhaps no earthly canvas and brash can accomplish this marvel. I + think the idealist must lay aside his highest ideal, and be satisfied he shall + never meet it, and then he will begin to enjoy. With this mood and + understanding I did enjoy very much an Assumption of the Virgin, by Guido, and + more especially Diana and her Nymphs, by Titian: in this were that softness of + outline, and that blending of light and shadow into each other, of which I felt + the want in the Raphaels. I felt as if there was a perfection of cultivated art + in this, a classical elegance, which, so far as it went, left the eye or mind + nothing to desire. It seemed to me that Titian was a Greek painter, the painter + of an etherealized sensuousness, which leaves the spiritual nature wholly + unmoved, and therefore all that he attempts he attains. Raphael, on the + contrary, has spiritualism; his works enter a sphere where at is more difficult + to satisfy the soul; nay, perhaps from the nature of the case, impossible.</p> + <p class="dgp">There were some glorious pieces of sunshine by Cuyp. There was a + massive sea piece by Turner, in which the strong solemn swell of the green + waves, and the misty wreathings of clouds, were powerfully given.</p> + <p class="dgp">There was a highly dramatic piece, by Paul de la Roche, + representing Charles I. in a guard room, insulted by the soldiery. He sits, + pale, calm, and resolute, while they are puffing tobacco smoke in his face, and + passing vulgar jokes. His thoughts appear to be far away, his eyes looking + beyond them with an air of patient, proud weariness.</p> + <p class="dgp">Independently of the pleasure one receives from particular + pictures in these galleries, there is a general exaltation, apart from, + critical considerations, an excitement of the nerves, a kind of dreamy state, + which is a gain in our experience. Often in a landscape we first single out + particular objects,—this old oak,—that cascade,—that + ruin,—and derive from them, an individual joy; then relapsing, we view + the landscape as a whole, and seem, to be surrounded by a kind of atmosphere of + thought, the result of the combined influence of all. This state, too, I think + is not without its influence in educating the æsthetic sense.</p> + <p class="dgp">Even in pictures which we comparatively reject, because we see + them, in the presence of superior ones, there is a wealth of beauty which would + grow on us from day to day, could we see them, often. When I give a sigh to the + thought that in our country we are of necessity, to a great extent, shut from + the world of art, I then rejoice in the inspiriting thought that Nature is ever + the superior. No tree painting can compare with a splendid elm, in the + plenitude of its majesty. There are colorings beyond those of Rubens poured + forth around us in every autumn scene; there are Murillos smiling by our + household firesides; and as for Madonnas and Venuses, I think with + Byron,—</p> + <div class="lg"> + <p class="l">"I've seen more splendid women, ripe and real,</p> + <p class="l">Than all the nonsense of their stone ideal."</p> + </div> + <p class="noindent">Still, I long for the full advent of our American, day of + art, already dawning auspiciously.</p> + <p class="dgp">After finishing our inspection, we went back to Stafford House + to lunch.</p> + <p class="dgp">In the evening we went to Lord John Russell's. We found Lady + Russell and her daughters sitting quietly around the evening lamp, quite by + themselves. She is elegant and interesting in her personal appearance, and has + the same charm of simplicity and sincerity of manner which we have found in so + marry of the upper sphere. She is the daughter of the Earl of Minto, and the + second wife of Lord John. We passed here an entirely quiet and domestic + evening, with only the family circle. The conversation turned on various topics + of practical benevolence, connected with the care and education of the poorer + classes. Allusion being made to Mrs. Tyler's letter, Lady Russell expressed + some concern lest the sincere and well-intended expression of the feeling of + the English ladies might have done harm. I said that I did not think the spirit + of Mrs. Tyler's letter was to be taken as representing the feeling of American + ladies generally,—only of that class who are determined to maintain the + rightfulness of slavery.</p> + <p class="dgp">It seems to me that the better and more thinking part of the + higher classes in England have conscientiously accepted the responsibility + which the world has charged upon them of elevating and educating the poorer + classes. In every circle since I have been here in England, I have heard the + subject discussed as one of paramount importance.</p> + <p class="dgp">One or two young gentlemen dropped in in the course of the + evening, and the discourse branched out on the various topics of the day; such + as the weather, literature, art, spiritual rappings, and table turnings, and + all the floating et ceteras of life. Lady Russell apologized for the absence of + Lord John in Parliament, and invited us to dine with, them at their residence + in Richmond Park next week, when there is to be a parliamentary recess.</p> + <p class="dgp">We left about ten o'clock, and went to pass the night with our + friends Mr. and Mrs. Cropper at their hotel, being engaged to breakfast at the + West End in the morning.</p> + <p class="dgp" style="text-align: center">End of Volume I</p> + </div> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + <div class="back"> + <div class="div" id="footnotes"> + <a id="toc_36" name="toc_36"></a> + <h2 class="dgp">Notes</h2> + <dl class="footnote"> + <dt><a id="note_1" name="note_1">1.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">Since my return to the United States I have been + informed that the Freewill Baptist denomination have adopted the same rigid + principle of slavery exclusion that characterizes the Scotch Seceders and + the Quakers. Let this be known to their honor.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_2" name="note_2">2.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">This venerated, and erudite jurist, the friend and + biographer of the celebrated Lord Jeffrey, has recently died.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_3" name="note_3">3.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">This, alas! is no longer true. By the recent passage of + the infamous Nebraska bill, this whole region, with the exception of two + states already organized, is laid open to slavery. This faithless measure + was nobly resisted by a large and able minority in Congress—honor to + them.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_4" name="note_4">4.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">This most learned and amiable judge recently died, + while in the very act of charging a jury.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_5" name="note_5">5.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">This resolution, drawn and offered, I think, by my + hospitable friend, Mr. Binney, I have mislaid, and cannot find it. It was, + however, in character and spirit, just what Mr. James here declares it to + be.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_6" name="note_6">6.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">I have been told since my return, that there are some + slaveholding Congregational churches in the south; but they have no + connection with our New England churches, and certainly are not generally + known as Congregationalists distinct from the Presbyterians.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_7" name="note_7">7.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">This has always been supposed and claimed in the United + States. Now the time has come to test its truth. If there is this + antislavery feeling in nine tenths of the people, the impudent iniquity of + the Nebraska bill will call it forth.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_8" name="note_8">8.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">Eight years ago I conscientiously approved and + zealously defended this course of the American Board. Subsequent events + have satisfied me, that, in the present circumstances of our country, + making concessions to slaveholders, however slightly, and with whatever + motives, even if not wrong in principle, is productive of no good. It does + but strengthen slavery, and makes its demands still more exorbitant, and + neutralizes the power of gospel truth.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_9" name="note_9">9.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">This state of things is fast changing. Church members + at the south now defend slavery as right. This is a new thing.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_10" name="note_10">10.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">When your chimney has smoked as long as ours, it will, + may be, need sweeping too.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_11" name="note_11">11.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">Had I known all about New York and Boston which recent + examinations have developed, I should have answered very differently. The + fact is, that we in America can no longer congratulate ourselves on not + having a degraded and miserable class in our cities, and it will be seen to + be necessary for us to arouse to the very same efforts which, have been so + successfully making in England.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_12" name="note_12">12.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">This idea is beautifully wrought out by Mrs. Jamieson + in her Characteristics of the Women of Shakspeare, to which, the author is + indebted for the suggestion.</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_13" name="note_13">13.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">James Russell Lowell's "Beaver Brook."</p> + </dd> + <dt><a id="note_14" name="note_14">14.</a></dt> + <dd> + <p class="noindent">The hymns beginning with, these lines, "If human, + kindness meet return," and "Behold where, in a mortal form," are + specimens.</p> + </dd> + </dl> + </div> + </div> + </div> +<div style='text-align:center'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SUNNY 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b/13945-h/style.css @@ -0,0 +1,104 @@ +/* + +The Gnutenberg Press - default CSS stylesheet +Copyright (C) 2003 Marcello Perathoner + +Further modification by Joshua Hutchinson - 2004 + +This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or +modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License +as published by the Free Software Foundation; either version 2 +of the License, or (at your option) any later version. + +This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful, +but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of +MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. See the +GNU General Public License for more details. + +You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License +along with this program; if not, write to the Free Software +Foundation, Inc., 59 Temple Place - Suite 330, Boston, MA 02111-1307, USA. + +*/ + +body.dgp { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; text-align: justify } +body.marginalia { margin: 4em 2em 4em 10em; text-align: justify } + +div.dgp { margin: 2em 0em } +div.frontpage { margin: 4em 0em } +div.contents { margin: 2em 0em } +div.colophon { margin: 4em 0em; font-size: 80% } +div.footnotes { margin: 2em 0em } +div.figure-caption { margin: 1em 0em; text-align: center; font-size: 80% } +div.epigraph { margin: 0em 0em 1em 10em; font-size: small; } +div.sp { margin: 1em 0em 1em 2em; text-align: left } +div.speaker { margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em; text-align: left; + font-weight: bold; text-indent: 0em } +div.stage { margin: 1em 0em; font-weight: normal; font-style: italic } +span.stage { font-weight: normal; font-style: italic } +div.lg { margin: 1em 0em 1em 2em } +div.eg { margin: 1em -1em; padding: 1ex 1em; font-size: 80%; + color: black; background-color: #eee } +.marginnote { margin: 0em 0em 0em -12em; width: 10em; float: left; font-size: 80%} + +p.dgp { } +p.noindent { } +p.pubdate { margin: 4em 0em; text-indent: 0em } +p.dateline { margin: 1ex 0em; text-align: right } +p.salute { margin: 1ex 0em; } +p.signed { margin: 1ex 0em; text-align: right } +p.byline { margin: 1ex 0em; } +/* indent verse continuation lines 4em */ +p.l { margin: 0em 0em 0em 4em; text-align: left; + text-indent: -4em } + +hr.doublepage { margin: 4em 0em; height: 5px } +hr.page { margin: 4em 0em } + +.display { margin: 2em 4em } +blockquote.dgp { margin: 2em 4em } + +h1.author { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 173% } +h1.title { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 207% } +h1.dgp { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 173% } +h2.dgp, h1.sub { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 144% } +h3.dgp, h2.sub { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 120% } +h4.dgp, h3.sub { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; font-size: 100% } + +h4.sub, h5.sub, h6.sub { margin-top: 1em; font-size: smaller } + +ol.dgp, ul.dgp { margin: 2em 0em } +ul.simple { margin: 2em 0em; list-style-type: none } +ul.toc { margin: 2em 0em; list-style-type: none } +li.dgp { margin: 1em 0em } +dt.dgp { font-weight: bold; } +ul.toc li { margin: 0em } + +pre.dgp { font-family: monospace } + +span.title { font-style: italic } +span.name-ship { font-style: italic } +span.footnoteref { vertical-align: super; font-size: 60% } +span.code { font-family: monospace; font-size: 110%; } + +dl.dgp { } +dl.dgp dt { } +dl.dgp dd { margin: 0em 0em 0em 4em } + +dl.footnote { font-size: 80% } +dl.footnote dt { font-weight: normal; text-align: right; + float: left; width: 3em } +dl.footnote dd { margin: 0em 0em 1ex 4em } + +ul.dgp-castlist { margin: 0em; list-style-type: none } +li.dgp-castitem { margin: 0em; } +table.dgp-castgroup { margin: 0em; } +ul.dgp-castgroup { margin: 0em; list-style-type: none; + padding-right: 2em; border-right: solid black 2px; } +caption.dgp-castgroup-head { width: 50%; text-align: left; + vertical-align: middle; padding-left: 2em; } +.dgp-roledesc { font-style: italic } +.dgp-set { font-style: italic } + +th.dgp { padding: 0em 1em } +td.dgp { padding: 0em 1em } |
