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diff --git a/old/13854.txt b/old/13854.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..714e28d --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13854.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7765 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Old Franciscan Missions Of California +by George Wharton James + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Old Franciscan Missions Of California + +Author: George Wharton James + +Release Date: October 25, 2004 [EBook #13854] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE OLD FRANCISCAN MISSIONS *** + + + + +Produced by Charlie Kirschner and the PG Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + + + + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN LUIS REY, PARTLY RESTORED.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN LUIS REY. +Showing monastery recently built behind the old Mission arches.] + + + + +The +Old Franciscan Missions +of California + +BY + +GEORGE WHARTON JAMES + +Author of "In and Around the Grand Canyon," "Heroes of +California," "Through Ramona's Country," Etc. + +_With Illustrations from Photographs_ + +1913 + + + + +Dedication + +To those good men and women, of all creeds and of no creed, whose lives +have shown forth the glories of beautiful, helpful, unselfish, +sympathetic humanity: + +To those whose love and life are larger than all creeds and who discern +the manifestation of God in all men: + +To those who are urging forward the day when profession will give place +to endeavor, and, in the real life of a genuine brotherhood of man, and +true recognition of the All-Fatherhood of God, all men, in spite of +their diversities, shall unite in their worship and thus form the real +Catholic Church: + +Especially to these, and to all who appreciate nobleness in others I +lovingly dedicate these pages, devoted to a recital of the life and work +of godly and unselfish men. + + + +Foreword + +The story of the Old Missions of California is perennially new. The +interest in the ancient and dilapidated buildings and their history +increases with each year. To-day a thousand visit them where ten saw +them twenty years ago, and twenty years hence, hundreds of thousands +will stand in their sacred precincts, and unconsciously absorb beautiful +and unselfish lessons of life as they hear some part of their history +recited. It is well that this is so. A materially inclined nation needs +to save every unselfish element in its history to prevent its going to +utter destruction. It is essential to our spiritual development that we +learn that + + "Not on the vulgar mass + Called 'work,' must sentence pass, + Things done, that took the eye and had the price; + O'er which, from level stand, + The low world laid its hand, + Found straightway to its mind, could value in a trice." + +It is of incalculably greater benefit to the race that the Mission +Fathers lived and had their fling of divine audacity for the good of the +helpless aborigines than that any score one might name of the +"successful captains of industry" lived to make their unwieldy and +topheavy piles of gold. With all their faults and failures, all their +ideas of theology and education,--which we, in our assumed superiority, +call crude and old-fashioned,--all their rude notions of sociology, all +their errors and mistakes, the work of the Franciscan Fathers was +glorified by unselfish aim, high motive and constant and persistent +endeavor to bring their heathen wards into a knowledge of saving grace. +It was a brave and heroic endeavor. It is easy enough to find fault, to +criticize, to carp, but it is not so easy to _do_. These men _did_! They +had a glorious purpose which they faithfully pursued. They aimed high +and achieved nobly. The following pages recite both their aims and their +achievements, and neither can be understood without a thrilling of the +pulses, a quickening of the heart's beats, and a stimulating of the +soul's ambitions. + +This volume pretends to nothing new in the way of historical research or +scholarship. It is merely an honest and simple attempt to meet a real +and popular demand for an unpretentious work that shall give the +ordinary tourist and reader enough of the history of the Missions to +make a visit to them of added interest, and to link their history with +that of the other Missions founded elsewhere in the country during the +same or prior epochs of Mission activity. + +If it leads others to a greater reverence for these outward and visible +signs of the many and beautiful graces that their lives developed in the +hearts of the Franciscan Fathers--their founders and builders--and gives +the information needed, its purpose will be more than fulfilled. + +In most of its pages it is a mere condensation of the author's _In and +Out of the Old Missions of California,_ to which book the reader who +desires further and more detailed information is respectfully referred. + +[Illustration: Signature: George Wharton James] + +PASADENA, CALIFORNIA, April, 1913. + + + +Contents + +CHAPTER PAGE + +I. HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION + +II. THE RELATIONSHIP OF THE MISSIONS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA (MEXICO) AND +ALTA CALIFORNIA (UNITED STATES) + +III. THE MISSIONS FOUNDED BY PADRE JUNIPERO SERRA + +IV. THE MISSIONS FOUNDED BY PADRE FERMIN FRANCISCO LASUEN + +V. THE FOUNDING OF SANTA INES, SAN RAFAEL AND SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO + +VI. THE INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES + +VII. THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES + +VIII. THE SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS + +IX. SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA + +X. SAN CARLOS BORROMEO + +XI. THE PRESIDIO CHURCH AT MONTEREY + +XII. SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +XIII. SAN GABRIEL, ARCANGEL + +XIV. SAN LUIS OBISPO DE TOLOSA + +XV. SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS + +XVI. SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +XVII. SANTA CLARA DE ASIS + +XVIII. SAN BUENAVENTURA + +XIX. SANTA BARBARA + +XX. LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION + +XXI. SANTA CRUZ + +XXII. LA SOLEDAD + +XXIII. SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE + +XXIV. SAN JUAN BAUTISTA + +XXV. SAN MIGUEL, ARCNGEL + +XXVI. SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA + +XXVII. SAN Luis, REY DE FRANCIA + +XXVIII. SANTA INES + +XXIX. SAN RAFAEL, ARCANGEL + +XXX. SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO + +XXXI. THE MISSION CHAPELS OR ASISTENCIAS + +XXXII. THE PRESENT CONDITION OF THE MISSION INDIANS + +XXXIII. MISSION ARCHITECTURE + +XXXIV. THE GLEN WOOD MISSION INN + +XXXV. THE INTERIOR DECORATIONS OF THE MISSIONS + +XXXVI. HOW TO REACH THE MISSIONS + + + +List of Illustrations + +MISSION SAN Luis KEY......_Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE + +JUNIPERO SERRA + +MAP OF THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA + +SERRA MEMORIAL CROSS, MONTEREY, CALIF + +SERRA CROSS ON MT. RUBIDOUX, RIVERSIDE, CALIF + +SERRA STATUE ERECTED BY MRS. LELAND STANFORD, AT MONTEREY + +STATUE TO JUNIPERO SERRA, THE GIFT OF JAMES D PHELAN, IN GOLDEN GATE +PARK, SAN FRANCISCO + +EASTER SUNRISE SERVICE UNDER SERRA CROSS, MT. RUBIDOUX + +MEMORIAL TABLET AND GRAVES OF PADRES SERRA, CRESPI AND LASUEN, IN +MISSION SAN CARLOS BORROMEO + +MISSION SAN CARLOS AND BAY OF MONTEREY + +JUNIPERO OAK, SAN CARLOS PRESIDIO MISSION + +STATUE OF SAN LUIS REY, AT PALA MISSION CHAPEL + +FACHADA OF THE RUINED MISSION OF SAN DIEGO + +OLD MISSION OF SAN DIEGO AND SISTERS' SCHOOL FOR INDIAN CHILDREN + +MAIN ENTRANCE ARCH AT MISSION SAN DIEGO + +THE TOWER AT MISSION SAN CARLOS BORROMEO + +PRESIDIO CHURCH AND PRIEST'S RESIDENCE, MONTEREY, CALIF + +MISSION SAN CARLOS + +MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +PRESIDIO CHURCH, MONTEREY + +RUINS OF MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +DUTTON HOTEL, JOLON + +RUINED CORRIDORS AT SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +INTERIOR OF MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +REAR OF CHURCH, MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +RUINS OF THE ARCHES, MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +MISSION SAN GABRIEL, ARCANGEL + +MISSION SAN GABRIEL, ARCANGEL + +SAN LUIS OBISPO BEFORE RESTORATION + +RUINED MISSION OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +THE RESTORED MISSION OF SAN LUIS OBISPO + +FACHADA OF MISSION SAN FRANCISCO + +RUINS OF MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +ARCHED CLOISTERS AND CORRIDORS AT SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +CAMPANILE AND RUINS OF MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +ENTRANCE TO SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO CHAPEL + +INNER COURT AND RUINED ARCHES, MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +BELLS OF MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +ONE OF THE DOORS, SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +IN THE AMBULATORY AT SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +MISSION SANTA CLARA IN 1849 + +CHURCH OF SANTA CLARA ON THE SITE OF OLD MISSION OF SANTA CLARA + +SIDE ENTRANCE AT SAN BUENAVENTURA + +FACHADA OF MISSION SAN BUENAVENTURA + +STATUE OF SAN BUENAVENTURA + +RAWHIDE FASTENING OF MISSION BELL, AND WORM-EATEN BEAM + +MISSION SANTA BARBARA + +MISSION SANTA BARBARA FROM THE HILLSIDE + +INTERIOR OF MISSION SANTA BARBARA + +DOOR INTO CEMETERY, SANTA BARBARA + +MISSION BELL AT SANTA BARBARA + +THE SACRISTY WALL, GARDEN AND TOWERS, MISSION SANTA BARBARA + +FACHADA OF MISSION LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION + +RUINS OF MISSION LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION + +MISSION SANTA CRUZ + +RUINED WALLS OF MISSION LA SOLEDAD + +ANOTHER VIEW OF THE WALLS OF MISSION LA SOLEDAD + +MISSION SAN JOSE, SOON AFTER THE DECREE OF SECULARIZATION + +FIGURE OF CHRIST, SAN JOSE ORPHANAGE + +RUINED WALLS AND NEW BELL TOWER, MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA + +FACHADA OF MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA + +MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, FROM THE PLAZA + +THE ARCHED CORRIDOR, MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA + +DOORWAY, MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA + +STAIRWAY LEADING TO PULPIT, MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA + +MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL, FROM THE SOUTH + +MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL AND CORRIDORS + +SEEKING TO PREVENT THE PHOTOGRAPHER FROM MAKING A PICTURE OF SAN MIGUEL +ARCANGEL + +OLD PULPIT AT MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL + +RESTORED MONASTERY AND MISSION CHURCH OF SAN FERNANDO REY + +CORRIDORS AT SAN FERNANDO REY + +SHEEP AT MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY + +RUINS OF OLD ADOBE WALL AND CHURCH, SAN FERNANDO REY + +MONASTERY AND OLD FOUNTAIN AT MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY + +INTERIOR OF RUINED CHURCH, MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY + +HOUSE OF MEXICAN, MADE FROM RUINED WALL AND TILES OF MISSION SAN +FERNANDO REY + +THE RUINED ALTAR, MORTUARY CHAPEL, SAN LUIS REY + +ILLUMINATED CHOIR MISSALS, ETC., AT MISSION SAN LUIS REY + +BELFRY WINDOW, MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY + +GRAVEYARD, RUINS OF MORTUARY CHAPEL, AND TOWER, MISSION SAN LUIS REY + +SIDE OF MISSION SAN LUIS REY + +THE CAMPANILE AT PALA + +MISSION SANTA INES + +MISSION OF SAN RAFAEL, ARCANGEL + +MISSION SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO, AT SONOMA + +CAMPANILE AND CHAPEL, SAN ANTONIO DE PALA + +ANOTHER VIEW OF THE CAMPANILE AND CHAPEL, SAN ANTONIO DE PALA + +MAIN DOORWAY AT SANTA MARGARITA CHAPEL + +HIGH SCHOOL, RIVERSIDE, CALIF + +WALL DECORATIONS ON OLD MISSION CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA + +ARCHES AT GLENWOOD MISSION INN, RIVERSIDE, CALIF. + +TOWER, FLYING BUTTRESSES, ETC., GLENWOOD MISSION INN + +ARCHES OVER THE SIDEWALK, GLENWOOD MISSION INN + +RESIDENCE OF FRED MAIER, LOS ANGELES, CALIF + +WASHINGTON SCHOOL, VISALIA, CALIF + +THE OLD ALTAR AT THE CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA + +ALTAR AND INTERIOR OF CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA AFTER REMOVAL OF +WALL DECORATIONS PRIZED BY INDIANS + +ALTAR AND CEILING DECORATIONS, MISSION SANTA INES + +INTERIOR OF MISSION SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS + +INTERIOR OF MISSION SAN MIGUEL, FROM THE CHOIR GALLERY + +ARCHES, SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY DEPOT, SANTA BARBARA, CALIF + +FACHADA OF MISSION CHAPEL AT Los ANGELES + +THE CITY HALL, SANTA MONICA, CALIF + +MISSION CHAPEL AT LOS ANGELES, FROM THE PLAZA PARK + +RESIDENCE IN LOS ANGELES, SHOWING INFLUENCE OF MISSION STYLE OF +ARCHITECTURE + + + +The Old Franciscan Missions of California + +CHAPTER I + +HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION + +In the popular mind there is a misapprehension that is as deep-seated as +it is ill-founded. It is that the California Missions are the only +Missions (except one or two in Arizona and a few in Texas) and that they +are the oldest in the country. This is entirely an error. A look at a +few dates and historic facts will soon correct this mistake. + +Cortes had conquered Mexico; Pizarro was conqueror in Peru; Balboa had +discovered the South Sea (the Pacific Ocean) and all Spain was aflame +with gold-lust. Narvaez, in great pomp and ceremony, with six hundred +soldiers of fortune, many of them of good families and high social +station, in his five specially built vessels, sailed to gain fame, +fortune and the fountain of perpetual youth in what we now call Florida. + +Disaster, destruction, death--I had almost said entire +annihilation--followed him and scarce allowed his expedition to land, +ere it was swallowed up, so that had it not been for the escape of +Cabeza de Vaca, his treasurer, and a few others, there would have been +nothing left to suggest that the history of the start of the expedition +was any other than a myth. But De Vaca and his companions were saved, +only to fall, however, into the hands of the Indians. What an unhappy +fate! Was life to end thus? Were all the hopes, ambitions and glorious +dreams of De Vaca to terminate in a few years of bondage to +degraded savages? + +Unthinkable, unbearable, unbelievable. De Vaca was a man of power, a man +of thought. He reasoned the matter out. Somewhere on the other side of +the great island--for the world then thought of the newly-discovered +America as a vast island--his people were to be found. He would work his +way to them and freedom. He communicated his hope and his determination +to his companions in captivity. Henceforth, regardless of whether they +were held as slaves by the Indians, or worshiped as demigods,--makers of +great medicine,--either keeping them from their hearts' desire, they +never once ceased in their efforts to cross the country and reach the +Spanish settlements on the other side. For eight long years the weary +march westward continued, until, at length, the Spanish soldiers of the +Viceroy of New Spain were startled at seeing men who were almost +skeletons, clad in the rudest aboriginal garb, yet speaking the purest +Castilian and demanding in the tones of those used to obedience that +they be taken to his noble and magnificent Viceroyship. Amazement, +incredulity, surprise, gave way to congratulations and rejoicings, when +it was found that these were the human drift of the expedition of which +not a whisper, not an echo, had been heard for eight long years. + +Then curiosity came rushing in like a flood. Had they seen anything on +the journey? Were there any cities, any peoples worth conquering; +especially did any of them have wealth in gold, silver and precious +stones like that harvested so easily by Cortes and Pizarro? + +Cabeza didn't know really, but--, and his long pause and brief story of +seven cities that he had heard of, one or two days' journey to the north +of his track, fired the imagination of the Viceroy and his soldiers of +fortune. To be sure, though, they sent out a party of reconnaissance, +under the control of a good father of the Church, Fray Marcos de Nizza, +a friar of the Orders Minor, commonly known as a Franciscan, with +Stephen, a negro, one of the escaped party of Cabeza de Vaca, as a +guide, to spy out the land. + +Fray Marcos penetrated as far as Zuni, and found there the seven cities, +wonderful and strange; though he did not enter them, as the uncurbed +amorous demands of Stephen had led to his death, and Marcos feared lest +a like fate befall himself, but he returned and gave a fairly accurate +account of what he saw. His story was not untruthful, but there are +those who think it was misleading in its pauses and in what he did not +tell. Those pauses and eloquent silences were construed by the vivid +imaginations of his listeners to indicate what the _Conquistadores_ +desired, so a grand and glorious expedition was planned, to go forth +with great sound of trumpets, in glad acclaim and glowing colors, led by +his Superior Excellency and Most Nobly Glorious Potentate, Senyor Don +Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, a native of Salamanca, Spain, and now +governor of the Mexican province of New Galicia. + +It was a gay throng that started on that wonderful expedition from +Culiacan early in 1540. Their hopes were high, their expectations keen. +Many of them little dreamed of what was before them. Alarcon was sent to +sail up the Sea of Cortes (now the Gulf of California) to keep in touch +with the land expedition, and Melchior Diaz, of that sea party, forced +his way up what is now the Colorado River to the arid sands of the +Colorado Desert in Southern California, before death and disaster +overtook him. + +Coronado himself crossed Arizona to Zuni--the pueblo of the Indians that +Fray Marcos had gazed upon from a hill, but had not dared approach--and +took it by storm, receiving a wound in the conflict which laid him up +for a while and made it necessary to send his lieutenant, the Ensign +Pedro de Tobar, to further conquests to the north and west. Hence it was +that Tobar, and not Coronado, discovered the pueblos of the Hopi +Indians. He also sent his sergeant, Cardenas, to report on the stories +told him of a mighty river also to the north, and this explains why +Cardenas was the first white man to behold that eloquent abyss since +known as the Grand Canyon. And because Cardenas was Tobar's subordinate +officer, the high authorities of the Santa Fe Railway--who have yielded +to a common-sense suggestion in the Mission architecture of their +railway stations, and romantic, historic naming of their hotels--have +called their Grand Canyon hotel, _El Tovar_, their hotel at Las Vegas, +_Cardenas_, and the one at Williams (the junction point of the main line +with the Grand Canyon branch), _Fray Marcos._ + +Poor Coronado, disappointed as to the finding and gaining of great +stores of wealth at Zuni, pushed on even to the eastern boundaries of +Kansas, but found nothing more valuable than great herds of buffalo and +many people, and returned crestfallen, broken-hearted and almost +disgraced by his own sense of failure, to Mexico. And there he drops out +of the story. But others followed him, and in due time this northern +portion of the country was annexed to Spanish possessions and became +known as New Mexico. + +In the meantime the missionaries of the Church were active beyond the +conception of our modern minds in the newly conquered Mexican countries. + +The various orders of the Roman Catholic Church were indefatigable in +their determination to found cathedrals, churches, missions, convents +and schools. Jesuits, Franciscans and Dominicans vied with each other in +the fervor of their efforts, and Mexico was soon dotted over with +magnificent structures of their erection. Many of the churches of Mexico +are architectural gems of the first water that compare favorably with +the noted cathedrals of Europe, and he who forgets this overlooks one of +the most important factors in Mexican history and civilization. + +The period of expansion and enlargement of their political and +ecclesiastical borders continued until, in 1697, Fathers Kino and +Salviaterra, of the Jesuits, with indomitable energy and unquenchable +zeal, started the conversion of the Indians of the peninsula of Lower +California. + +In those early days, the name California was not applied, practically +speaking, to the country we know as California. The explorers of Cortes +had discovered what they imagined was an island, but afterwards learned +was a peninsula, and this was soon known as California. In this +California there were many Indians, and it was to missionize these that +the God-fearing, humanity-loving, self-sacrificing Jesuits just +named--not Franciscans--gave of their life, energy and love. The names +of Padres Kino and Salviaterra will long live in the annals of Mission +history for their devotion to the spiritual welfare of the Indians of +Lower California. + +The results of their labors were soon seen in that within a few years +fourteen Missions were established, beginning with San Juan Londa in +1697, and the more famous Loreto in 1698. + +When the Jesuits were expelled, in 1768, the Franciscans took charge of +the Lower California Missions and established one other, that of San +Fernando de Velicata, besides building a stone chapel in the mining camp +of San Antonio Real, situated near Ventana Bay. + +The Dominicans now followed, and the Missions of El Rosario, Santo +Domingo, Descanso, San Vicenti Ferrer, San Miguel Fronteriza, Santo +Tomas de Aquino, San Pedro Martir de Verona, El Mision Fronteriza de +Guadalupe, and finally, Santa Catarina de los Yumas were founded. This +last Mission was established in 1797, and this closed the active epoch +of Mission building in the peninsula, showing twenty-three fairly +flourishing establishments in all. + +It is not my purpose here to speak of these Missions of Lower +California, except in-so-far as their history connects them with the +founding of the _Alta_ California Missions. A later chapter will show +the relationship of the two. + +The Mission activity that led to the founding of Missions in Lower +California had already long been in exercise in New Mexico. The reports +of Marcos de Nizza had fired the hearts of the zealous priests as +vigorously as they had excited the cupidity of the _Conquistadores_. +Four Franciscan priests, Marcos de Nizza, Antonio Victoria, Juan de +Padilla and Juan de la Cruz, together with a lay brother, Luis de +Escalona, accompanied Coronado on his expedition. On the third day out +Fray Antonio Victoria broke his leg, hence was compelled to return, and +Fray Marcos speedily left the expedition when Zuni was reached and +nothing was found to satisfy the cupidity of the Spaniards. He was +finally permitted to retire to Mexico, and there died, March 25, 1558. + +For a time Mission activity in New Mexico remained dormant, not only on +account of intense preoccupation in other fields, but because the +political leaders seemed to see no purpose in attempting the further +subjugation of the country to the north (now New Mexico and Arizona). +But about forty years after Coronado, another explorer was filled with +adventurous zeal, and he applied for a charter or royal permission to +enter the country, conquer and colonize it for the honor and glory of +the king and his own financial reward and honorable renown. This leader +was Juan de Onate, who, in 1597, set out for New Mexico accompanied by +ten missionary padres, and in September of that year established the +second church in what is now United States territory. Juan de Onate was +the real colonizer of this new country. It was in 1595 that he made a +contract with the Viceroy of New Spain to colonize it at his own +expense. He was delayed, however, and could not set out until early in +1597, when he started with four hundred colonists, including two hundred +soldiers, women and children, and great herds of cattle and flocks of +sheep. In due time he reached what is now the village of Chamita, +calling it San Gabriel de los Espanoles, a few miles north of Santa Fe, +and there established, in September, 1598, the first town of New Mexico, +and the second of the United States (St. Augustine, in Florida, having +been the first, established in 1560 by Aviles de Menendez). + +The work of Onate and the epoch it represents is graphically, +sympathetically and understandingly treated, _from the Indian's +standpoint_, by Marah Ellis Ryan, in her fascinating and illuminating +novel, _The Flute of the Gods_, which every student of the Missions of +New Mexico and Arizona (as also of California) will do well to read. + +New Mexico has seen some of the most devoted missionaries of the world, +one of these, Fray Geronimo de Zarate Salmeron, having left a most +interesting, instructive account of "the things that have been seen and +known in New Mexico, as well by sea as by land, from the year 1538 till +that of 1626." + +This account was written in 1626 to induce other missionaries to enter +the field in which he was so earnest a laborer. For eight years he +worked in New Mexico, more than 280 years ago. In 1618 he was parish +priest at Jemez, mastered the Indian language and baptized 6566 Indians, +not counting those of Cia and Santa Ana. "He also, single-handed and +alone, pacified and converted the lofty pueblo of Acoma, then hostile to +the Spanish. He built churches and monasteries, bore the fearful +hardships and dangers of a missionary's life then in that wilderness, +and has left us a most valuable chronicle." This was translated by Mr. +Lummis and appeared in _The Land of Sunshine_. + +The missionaries who accompanied Juan de Onate in 1597 built a chapel at +San Gabriel, but no fragment of it remains, though in 1680 its ruins +were referred to. The second church in New Mexico was built about 1606 +in Santa Fe, the new city founded the year before by Onate. This church, +however, did not last long, for it was soon outgrown, and in 1622, Fray +Alonzo de Benavides, the Franciscan historian of New Mexico, laid the +foundation of the parish church, which was completed in 1627. When, in +1870, it was decided to build the stone cathedral in Santa Fe, this old +church was demolished, except two large chapels and the old sanctuary. +It had been described in the official records shortly prior to its +demolition as follows: "An adobe building 54 yards long by 9-1/2 in +width, with two small towers not provided with crosses, one containing +two bells and the other empty; the church being covered with the +_Crucero_ (the place where a church takes the form of a cross by the +side chapels), there are two large separate chapels, the one on the +north side dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary, called also 'La +Conquistadorea;' and on the south side the other dedicated to +St. Joseph." + +Sometime shortly after 1636 the old church of San Miguel was built in +Santa Fe, and its original walls still form a part of the church that +stands to-day. It was partially demolished in the rebellion of 1680, but +was restored in 1710. + +In 1617, nearly three hundred years ago, there were eleven churches in +New Mexico, the ruins of one of which, that of Pecos, can still be seen +a few miles above Glorieta on the Santa Fe main line. This pueblo was +once the largest in New Mexico, but it was deserted in 1840, and now its +great house, supposed to have been much larger than the many-storied +house of Zuni, is entirely in ruins. + +It would form a fascinating chapter could I here tell of the stirring +history of some of the Missions established in New Mexico. There were +martyrs by the score, escapes miraculous and wonderful. Among the Hopis +one whole village was completely destroyed and in the neighborhood of +seven hundred of its men--all of them--slain by their fellow-Hopis of +other towns, simply because of their complaisance towards the hated, +foreign long-gowns (as the Franciscan priests were called). Suffice it +to say that Missions were established and churches built at practically +all of the Indian pueblos, and also at the Spanish settlements of San +Gabriel and Santa Cruz de la Canyada, many of which exist to this day. +In Texas, also, Missions had been established, the ruins of the chief of +which may be visited in one day from the city of San Antonio. + + + +CHAPTER II + +THE RELATIONSHIP OF THE MISSIONS OF LOWER CALIFORNIA (MEXICO) AND ALTA +CALIFORNIA (UNITED STATES) + +Rightly to understand the history of the Missions of the California of +the United States, it is imperative that the connection or relationship +that exists between their history and that of the Missions of Lower +California (Mexico) be clearly understood. + +As I have already shown, the Jesuit padres founded fourteen Missions in +Lower California, which they conducted with greater or less success +until 1767, when the infamous Order of Expulsion of Carlos III of Spain +drove them into exile. + +It had always been the intention of Spain to colonize and missionize +Alta California, even as far back as the days of Cabrillo in 1542, and +when Vizcaino, sixty years later, went over the same region, the +original intention was renewed. But intentions do not always fructify +and bring forth, so it was not until a hundred and sixty years after +Vizcaino that the work was actually begun. The reasons were diverse and +equally urgent. The King of Spain and his advisers were growing more +and more uneasy about the aggressions of the Russians and the English +on the California or rather the Pacific Coast. Russia was pushing down +from the north; England also had her establishments there, and with her +insular arrogance England boldly stated that she had the right to +California, or New Albion, as she called it, because of Sir Francis +Drake's landing and taking possession in the name of "Good Queen Bess." +Spain not only resented this, but began to realize another need. Her +galleons from the Philippines found it a long, weary, tedious and +disease-provoking voyage around the coast of South America to Spain, and +besides, too many hostile and piratical vessels roamed over the Pacific +Sea to allow Spanish captains to sleep easy o' nights. Hence it was +decided that if ports of call were established on the California coast, +fresh meats and vegetables and pure water could be supplied to the +galleons, and in addition, with _presidios_ to defend them, they might +escape the plundering pirates by whom they were beset. Accordingly plans +were being formulated for the colonization and missionization of +California when, by authority of his own sweet will, ruling a people who +fully believed in the divine right of kings to do as they pleased, King +Carlos the Third issued the proclamation already referred to, totally +and completely banishing the Jesuits from all parts of his dominions, +under penalty of imprisonment and death. + +I doubt whether many people of to-day, even though they be of the +Catholic Church, can realize what obedience to that order meant to these +devoted priests. Naturally they must obey it--monstrous though it +was--but the one thought that tore their hearts with anguish was: Who +would care for their Indian charges? + +For these ignorant and benighted savages they had left their homes and +given up all that life ordinarily means and offers. Were they to be +allowed to drift back into their dark heathendom? + +No! In spite of his cruelty to the Jesuits, the king had provided that +the Indians should not be neglected. He had appointed one in whom he had +especial confidence, Don Jose Galvez, as his _Visitador General_, and +had conferred upon him almost plenary authority. To his hands was +committed the carrying out of the order of banishment, the providing of +members of some other Catholic Order to care for the Indians of the +Missions, and later, to undertake the work of extending the chain of +Missions northward into Alta California, as far north as the Bay of +Monterey, and even beyond. + +To aid him in his work Galvez appealed to the Superior of the Franciscan +Convent in the City of Mexico, and Padre Junipero Serra, by common +consent of the officers and his fellows, was denominated as the man of +all men for the important office of Padre Presidente of the Jesuit +Missions that were to be placed henceforth under the care of the +Franciscans. + +This plan, however, was changed within a few months. It was decided to +call upon the priests of the Dominican Order to take charge of the +Jesuit Missions, while the Franciscans put all their strength and energy +into the founding of the new Missions in Alta California. + +Thus it came to pass that the Franciscans took charge of the founding of +the California Missions, and that Junipero Serra became the first real +pioneer of what is now so proudly denominated "The Golden State." + +The orders that Galvez had received were clear and positive: + +"Occupy and fortify San Diego and Monterey for God and the King of +Spain." He was a devout son of the Church, full of enthusiasm, having +good sense, great executive ability, considerable foresight, untiring +energy, and decided contempt for all routine formalities. He began his +work with a truly Western vigor. Being invested with almost absolute +power, there were none above him to interpose vexatious formalities to +hinder the immediate execution of his plans. + +[Illustration: JUNIPERO SERRA Founder and First Padre Presidente of the +Franciscan Missions of California From the Schumacker crayon] + +[Illustration: MAP OF THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA, SHOWING THE FRANCISCAN +MISSION ESTABLISHMENTS. Map originally made for Palou's Life of Padre +Junipero Serra, published in Mexico in 1787.] + +In order that the spiritual part of the work might be as carefully +planned as the political, Galvez summoned Serra. What a fine +combination! Desire and power hand in hand! What nights were spent by +the two in planning! What arguments, what discussions, what final +agreements the old adobe rooms occupied by them must have heard! But it +is by just such men that great enterprises are successfully begun and +executed. For fervor and enthusiasm, power and sense, when combined, +produce results. Plans were formulated with a completeness and rapidity +that equalled the best days of the _Conquistadores_. Four expeditions +were to go: two by land and two by sea. So would the risk of failure be +lessened, and practical knowledge of both routes be gained. Galvez had +two available vessels: the "San Carlos" and the "San Antonio." + +For money the visitor-general called upon the Pious Fund, which, on the +expulsion of the Jesuits, he had placed in the hands of a governmental +administrator. He had also determined that the Missions of the peninsula +should do their share to help in the founding of the new Missions, and +Serra approved and helped in the work. + +When Galvez arrived, he found Gaspar de Portola acting as civil and +military governor, and Fernando Javier Rivera y Moncada, the former +governor, commanding the garrison at Loreto. Both were captains, Rivera +having been long in the country. He determined to avail himself of the +services of these two men, each of them to command one of the land +expeditions. Consequently with great rapidity, for those days, +operations were set in motion. Rivera in August or September, 1768, was +sent on a commission to visit in succession all the Missions, and gather +from each one all the provisions, live-stock, and implements that could +be spared. He was also to prevail upon all the available families he +could find to go along as colonists. In the meantime, others sent out by +Galvez gathered in church furniture, ornaments, and vestments for the +Missions, and later Serra made a tour for the same purpose. San Jose was +named the patron saint of the expedition, and in December the "San +Carlos" arrived at La Paz partially laden with supplies. + +The vessel was in bad condition, so it had to be unloaded, careened, +cleaned, and repaired, and then reloaded, and in this latter work both +Galvez and Serra helped, the former packing the supplies for the Mission +of San Buenaventura, in which he was particularly interested, and Serra +attending to those for San Carlos. They joked each other as they worked, +and when Galvez completed his task ahead of Serra he had considerable +fun at the Padre Presidente's expense. In addition to the two Missions +named, one other, dedicated to San Diego, was first to be established. +By the ninth of January, 1769, the "San Carlos" was ready. Confessions +were heard, masses said, the communion administered, and Galvez made a +rousing speech. Then Serra formally blessed the undertaking, cordially +embraced Fray Parron, to whom the spiritual care of the vessel was +intrusted, the sails were lowered, and off started the first division of +the party that meant so much to the future California. In another vessel +Galvez went along until the "San Carlos" doubled the point and started +northward, when, with gladness in his heart and songs on his lips, he +returned to still further prosecute his work. + +The fifteenth of February the "San Antonio," under the command of Perez, +was ready and started. Now the land expeditions must be moved. Rivera +had gathered his stock, etc., at Santa Maria, the most northern of the +Missions, but finding scant pasturage there, he had moved eight or ten +leagues farther north to a place called by the Indians Velicata. Fray +Juan Crespi was sent to join Rivera, and Fray Lasuen met him at Santa +Maria in order to bestow the apostolic blessing ere the journey began, +and on March 24 Lasuen stood at Velicata and saw the little band of +pilgrims start northward for the land of the gentiles, driving their +herds before them. What a procession it must have been! The animals, +driven by Indians under the direction of soldiers and priests, +straggling along or dashing wildly forward as such creatures are wont to +do! Here, as well as in the starting of the "San Carlos" and "San +Antonio," is a great scene for an artist, and some day canvases worthy +the subjects should be placed in the California State Capitol at +Sacramento. + +Governor Portola was already on his way north, but Serra was delayed by +an ulcerated foot and leg, and, besides, he had not yet gathered +together all the Mission supplies he needed, so it was May 15 before +this division finally left Velicata. The day before leaving, Serra +established the Mission of San Fernando at the place of their +departure, and left Padre Campa in charge. + +Padre Serra's diary, kept in his own handwriting during this trip from +Loreto to San Diego, is now in the Edward E. Ayer Library in Chicago. +Some of his expressions are most striking. In one place, speaking of +Captain Rivera's going from Mission to Mission to take from them +"whatever he might choose of what was in them for the founding of the +new Missions," he says: "Thus he did; and altho it was with a somewhat +heavy hand, it was undergone for God and the king." + +The work of Galvez for Alta California was by no means yet accomplished. +Another vessel, the "San Jose," built at his new shipyard, appeared two +days before the "San Antonio" set sail, and soon afterwards Galvez went +across the gulf in it to secure a load of fresh supplies. The sixteenth +of June the "San Jose" sailed for San Diego as a relief boat to the "San +Carlos" and "San Antonio," but evidently met with misfortune, for three +months later it returned to the Loreto harbor with a broken mast and in +general bad condition. It was unloaded and repaired at San Blas, and in +the following June again started out, laden with supplies, but never +reached its destination, disappearing forever without leaving a +trace behind. + +[Illustration: SERRA MEMORIAL CROSS, MONTEREY, CALIF] + +[Illustration: SERRA CROSS ON MT. RUBIDOUX, RIVERSIDE, CALIF. Under +which sunrise services are held at Easter and Christmastide.] + +[Illustration: SERRA STATUE. Erected by Mrs. Leland Stanford, at +Monterey] + +[Illustration: STATUE TO JUNIPERO SERRA. The gift of James D. Phelan, in +Golden Gate Park San Francisco.] + +The "San Antonio" first arrived at San Diego. About April 11, 1769, it +anchored in the bay, and awakened in the minds of the natives strange +feelings of astonishment and awe. Its presence recalled to them the +"stories of the old," when a similar apparition startled their +ancestors. That other white-winged creature had come long generations +ago, and had gone away, never to be seen again. Was this not to do +likewise? Ah, no! in this vessel was contained the beginning of the end +of the primitive man. The solitude of the centuries was now to be +disturbed and its peace invaded; aboriginal life destroyed forever. The +advent of this vessel was the death knell of the Indian tribes. + +Little, however, did either the company on board the "San Antonio" or +the Indians themselves conceive such thoughts as these on that memorable +April day. + +But where was the "San Carlos," which sailed almost a month earlier than +the "San Antonio"? She was struggling with difficulties,--leaking +water-casks, bad water, scurvy, cold weather. Therefore it was not until +April 29 that she appeared. In vain the captain of the "San Antonio" +waited for the "San Carlos" to launch a boat and to send him word as to +the cause of the late arrival of the flagship; so he visited her to +discover for himself the cause. He found a sorry state of affairs. All +on board were ill from scurvy. Hastily erecting canvas houses on the +beach, the men of his own crew went to the relief of their suffering +comrades of the other vessel. Then the crew of the relieving ship took +the sickness, and soon there were so few well men left that they could +scarcely attend the sick and bury the dead. Those first two weeks in the +new land, in the month of May, 1769, were never to be forgotten. Of +about ninety sailors, soldiers, and mechanics, less than thirty +survived; over sixty were buried by the wash of the waves of the Bay of +Saint James. + +Then came Rivera and Crespi, with Lieutenant Fages and twenty-five +soldiers. + +Immediately a permanent camp was sought and found at what is now known +as Old San Diego, where the two old palms still remain, with the ruins +of the _presidio_ on the hill behind. Six weeks were busily occupied in +caring for the sick and in unloading the "San Antonio." Then the fourth +and last party of the explorers arrived,--Governor Portola on June 29, +and Serra on July 1. What a journey that had been for Serra! He had +walked all the way, and, after two days out, a badly ulcerated leg began +to trouble him. Portola wished to send him back, but Serra would not +consent. He called to one of the muleteers and asked him to make just +such a salve for his wound as he would put upon the saddle galls of one +of his animals. It was done, and in a single night the ointment and the +Father's prayers worked the miracle of healing. + +After a general thanksgiving, in which exploding gunpowder was used to +give effect, a consultation was held, at which it was decided to send +back the "San Antonio" to San Blas for supplies, and for new crews for +herself and the "San Carlos." A land expedition under Portola was to go +to Monterey, while Serra and others remained at San Diego to found the +Mission. The vessel sailed, Portola and his band started north, and on +July 16, 1769, Serra raised the cross, blessed it, said mass, preached, +and formally established the Mission of San Diego de Alcala. + +It mattered not that the Indians held aloof; that only the people who +came on the expedition were present to hear. From the hills beyond, +doubtless, peered and peeped the curious natives. All was mysterious to +them. Later, however, they became troublesome, stealing from the sick +and pillaging from the "San Carlos." At last, they made a determined +raid for plunder, which the Spanish soldiers resisted. A flight of +arrows was the result. A boy was killed and three of the new-comers +wounded. A volley of musket-balls killed three Indians, wounded several +more, and cleared the settlement. After such an introduction, there is +no wonder that conversions were slow. Not a neophyte gladdened the +Father's heart for more than a year. + + + +CHAPTER III + +THE MISSIONS FOUNDED BY PADRE JUNIPERO SERRA + +San Diego Mission founded, Serra was impatient to have work begun +elsewhere. Urging the governor to go north immediately, he rejoiced when +Portola, Crespi, Rivera, and Pages started, with a band of soldiers and +natives. They set out gaily, gladly. They were sure of a speedy journey +to the Bay of Monterey, discovered by Cabrillo, and seen again and +charted by Vizcaino, where they were to establish the second Mission. + +[Illustration: EASTER SUNRISE SERVICE, 1913, UNDER SERRA CROSS, MT. +RUBIDOUX, RIVERSIDE, CALIF.] + +[Illustration: MEMORIAL TABLET AND GRAVES OF PADRES SERRA, CRESPI, AND +LASUEN, IN MISSION SAN CARLOS BORROMEO, CARMEL VALLEY, MONTEREY.] + +Strange to say, however, when they reached Monterey, in the words of +Scripture, "their eyes were holden," and they did not recognize it. They +found a bay which they fully described, and while we to-day clearly see +that it was the bay they were looking for, they themselves thought it +was another one. Believing that Vizcaino had made an error in his chart, +they pushed on further north. The result of this disappointment was of +vast consequence to the later development of California, for, following +the coast line inland, they were bound to strike the peninsula and +ultimately reach the shores of what is now San Francisco Bay. This +was exactly what was done, and on November 2, 1769, one of Portola's +men, ascending ahead of the others to the crest of a hill, caught sight +of this hitherto unknown and hidden body of water. How he would have +shouted had he understood! How thankful and joyous it would have made +Portola and Crespi and the others. For now was the discovery of that +very harbor that Padre Serra had so fervently hoped and prayed for, the +harbor that was to secure for California a Mission "for our father Saint +Francis." Yet not one of them either knew or seemed to comprehend the +importance of that which their eyes had seen. Instead, they were +disheartened and disappointed by a new and unforeseen obstacle to their +further progress. The narrow channel (later called the Golden Gate by +Fremont), barred their way, and as their provisions were getting low, +and they certainly were much further north than they ought to have been +to find the Bay of Monterey, Portola gave the order for the return, and +sadly, despondently, they went back to San Diego. + +On the march south, Portola's mind was made up. This whole enterprise +was foolish and chimerical. He had had enough of it. He was going back +home, and as the "San Antonio" with its promised supplies had not yet +arrived, and the camp was almost entirely out of food, he announced the +abandonment of the expedition and an immediate return to Lower +California. + +Now came Serra's faith to the fore, and that resolute determination and +courage that so marked his life. The decision of Portola had gone to his +heart like an arrow. What! Abandon the Missions before they were fairly +begun? Where was their trust in God? It was one hundred and sixty-six +years since Vizcaino had been in this port, and if they left it now, +when would another expedition be sent? In those years that had elapsed +since Vizcaino, how many precious Indian souls had been lost because +they had not received the message of salvation? He pleaded and begged +Portola to reconsider. For awhile the governor stood firm. Serra also +had a strong will. From a letter written to Padre Palou, who was left +behind in charge of the Lower California Missions, we see his intention: +"_If we see that along with the provisions hope vanishes, I shall remain +alone_ with Father Juan Crespi and hold out to the last breath." + +With such a resolution as this, Portola could not cope. Yielding to +Serra's persuasion, he consented to wait while a _novena_ (a nine days' +devotional exercise) was made to St. Joseph, the holy patron of the +expedition. Fervently day by day Serra prayed. On the day of San Jose +(St. Joseph) a high mass was celebrated, and Serra preached. On the +fourth day the eager watchers saw the vessel approach. Then, strange to +say, it disappeared, and as the sixth, seventh and eighth days passed +and it did not reappear again, hope seemed to sink lower in the hearts +of all but Serra and his devoted brother Crespi. On the ninth and last +day--would it be seen? Bowing himself in eager and earnest prayer Serra +pleaded that his faith be not shamed, and, to his intense delight, +doubtless while he prayed, the vessel sailed into the bay. + +Joy unspeakable was felt by every one. The provisions were here, the +expedition need not be abandoned; the Indians would yet be converted to +Holy Church and all was well. A service of thanksgiving was held, and +happiness smiled on every face. + +With new energy, vigor, and hope, Portola set out again for the search +of Monterey, accompanied by Serra as well as Crespi. This time the +attempt was successful. They recognized the bay, and on June 3, 1770, a +shelter of branches was erected on the beach, a cross made ready near an +old oak, the bells were hung and blessed, and the services of founding +began. Padre Serra preached with his usual fervor; he exhorted the +natives to come and be saved, and put to rout all infernal foes by an +abundant sprinkling of holy water. The Mission was dedicated to San +Carlos Borromeo. + +Thus two of the long desired Missions were established, and the passion +of Serra's longings, instead of being assuaged, raged now all the +fiercer. It was not long, however, before he found it to be bad policy +to have the Missions for the Indian neophytes too near the _presidio_, +or barracks for the soldiers. These latter could not always be +controlled, and they early began a course which was utterly demoralizing +to both sexes, for the women of a people cannot be debauched without +exciting the men to fierce anger, or making them as bad as their women. +Hence Serra removed the Missions: that of San Diego six miles up the +valley to a point where the ruins now stand, while that of San Carlos he +re-established in the Carmelo Valley. + +The Mission next to be established should have been San Buenaventura, +but events stood in the way; so, on July 14, 1771, Serra (who had been +zealously laboring with the heathen near Monterey), with eight soldiers, +three sailors, and a few Indians, passed down the Salinas River and +established the Mission of San Antonio de Padua. The site was a +beautiful one, in an oak-studded glen, near a fair-sized stream. The +passionate enthusiasm of Serra can be understood from the fact that +after the bells were hung from a tree, he loudly tolled them, crying the +while like one possessed: "Come, gentiles, come to the Holy Church, come +and receive the faith of Jesus Christ!" Padre Pieras could not help +reminding his superior that not an Indian was within sight or hearing, +and that it would be more practical to proceed with the ritual. One +native, however, did witness the ceremony, and he soon brought a large +number of his companions, who became tractable enough to help in +erecting the rude church, barracks and houses with which the priests and +soldiers were compelled to be content in those early days. + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN CARLOS AND BAY OF MONTEREY.] + +[Illustration: JUNIPERO OAK, SAN CARLOS PRESIDIO MISSION, MONTEREY] + +[Illustration: STATUE OF SAN LUIS REY, AT PALA MISSION CHAPEL _See page +246._] + +On September 8, Padres Somera and Cambon founded the Mission of San +Gabriel Arcangel, originally about six miles from the present site. +Here, at first, the natives were inclined to be hostile, a large force +under two chieftains appearing, in order to prevent the priests from +holding their service. But at the elevation of a painting of the Virgin, +the opposition ceased, and the two chieftains threw their necklaces at +the feet of the Beautiful Queen. Still, a few wicked men can undo in a +short time the work of many good ones. Padre Palou says that outrages by +soldiers upon the Indian women precipitated an attack upon the +Spaniards, especially upon two, at one of whom the chieftain (whose wife +had been outraged by the man) fired an arrow. Stopping it with his +shield, the soldier levelled his musket and shot the injured husband +dead. Ah! sadness of it! The unbridled passions of men of the new race +already foreshadowed the death of the old race, even while the good +priests were seeking to elevate and to Christianize them. This attack +and consequent disturbance delayed still longer the founding of San +Buenaventura. + +On his way south (for he had now decided to go to Mexico), Serra +founded, on September 1, 1772, the Mission of San Luis Obispo de Tolosa. +The natives called the location Tixlini, and half a league away was a +famous canyada in which Fages, some time previously, had killed a number +of bears to provide meat for the starving people at Monterey. This act +made the natives well disposed towards the priests in charge of the new +Mission, and they helped to erect buildings, offered their children for +baptism, and brought of their supply of food to the priests, whose +stores were by no means abundant. + +While these events were transpiring, Governor Portola had returned to +Lower California, and Lieutenant Fages was appointed commandant in his +stead. This, it soon turned out, was a great mistake. Fages and Serra +did not work well together, and, at the time of the founding of San Luis +Obispo, relations between them were strained almost to breaking. Serra +undoubtedly had just cause for complaint. The enthusiastic, impulsive +missionary, desirous of furthering his important religious work, +believed himself to be restrained by a cold-blooded, official-minded +soldier, to whom routine was more important than the salvation of the +Indians. Serra complained that Fages opened his letters and those of his +fellow missionaries; that he supported his soldiers when their evil +conduct rendered the work of the missionaries unavailing; that he +interfered with the management of the stations and the punishment of +neophytes, and devoted to his own uses the property and facilities of +the Missions. + +In the main, this complaint received attention from the Junta in +Mexico. Fages was ultimately removed, and Rivera appointed governor in +his place. More missionaries, money, and supplies were placed at Serra's +disposal, and he was authorized to proceed to the establishment of the +additional Missions which he had planned. He also obtained authority +from the highest powers of the Church to administer the important +sacrament of confirmation. This is a right generally conferred only upon +a bishop and his superiors, but as California was so remote and the +visits of the bishop so rare, it was deemed appropriate to grant this +privilege to Serra. + +Rejoicing and grateful, the earnest president sent Padres Fermin +Francisco de Lasuen and Gregorio Amurrio, with six soldiers, to begin +work at San Juan Capistrano. This occurred in August, 1775. On the +thirtieth of the following October, work was begun, and everything +seemed auspicious, when suddenly, as if God had ceased to smile upon +them, terrible news came from San Diego. There, apparently, things had +been going well. Sixty converts were baptized on October 3, and the +priests rejoiced at the success of their efforts. But the Indians back +in the mountains were alarmed and hostile. Who were these white-faced +strangers causing their brother aborigines to kneel before a strange +God? What was the meaning of that mystic ceremony of sprinkling with +water? The demon of priestly jealousy was awakened in the breasts of +the _tingaivashes_--the medicine-men--of the tribes about San Diego, who +arranged a fierce midnight attack which should rid them forever of these +foreign conjurers, the men of the "bad medicine." + +Exactly a month and a day after the baptism of the sixty converts, at +the dead of night, the Mission buildings were fired and the eleven +persons of Spanish blood were awakened by flames and the yells of a +horde of excited savages. A fierce conflict ensued. Arrows were fired on +the one side, gun-shots on the other, while the flames roared in +accompaniment and lighted the scene. Both Indians and Spaniards fell. +The following morning, when hostilities had ceased and the enemy had +withdrawn, the body of Padre Jayme was discovered in the dry bed of a +neighboring creek, bruised from head to foot with blows from stones and +clubs, naked, and bearing eighteen arrow-wounds. + +The sad news was sent to Serra, and his words, at hearing it, show the +invincible missionary spirit of the man: "God be thanked! Now the soil +is watered; now will the reduction of the Dieguinos be complete!" + +At San Juan Capistrano, however, the news caused serious alarm. Work +ceased, the bells were buried, and the priests returned. + +In the meantime events were shaping elsewhere for the founding of the +Mission of San Francisco. Away yonder, in what is now Arizona, but was +then a part of New Mexico, were several Missions, some forty miles +south of the city of Tucson, and it was decided to connect these, by +means of a good road, with the Missions of California. Captain Juan +Bautista de Anza was sent to find this road. He did so, and made the +trip successfully, going with Padre Serra from San Gabriel as far north +as Monterey. + +On his return, the Viceroy, Bucareli, gave orders that he should recruit +soldiers and settlers for the establishment and protection of the new +Mission on San Francisco Bay. We have a full roster, in the handwriting +of Padre Font, the Franciscan who accompanied the expedition, of those +who composed it. Successfully they crossed the sandy wastes of Arizona +and the barren desolation of the Colorado Desert (in Southern +California). + +On their arrival at San Gabriel, January 4, 1776 (memorable year on the +other side of the continent), they found that Rivera, who had been +appointed governor in Portola's stead, had arrived the day before, on +his way south to quell the Indian disturbances at San Diego, and Anza, +on hearing the news, deemed the matter of sufficient importance to +justify his turning aside from his direct purpose and going south with +Rivera. Taking seventeen of his soldiers along, he left the others to +recruit their energies at San Gabriel, but the inactivity of Rivera did +not please him, and, as things were not going well at San Gabriel, he +soon returned and started northward. It was a weary journey, the rains +having made some parts of the road well-nigh impassable, and even the +women had to walk. Yet on the tenth of March they all arrived safely and +happily at Monterey, where Serra himself came to congratulate them. + +After an illness which confined him to his bed, Anza, against the advice +of his physician, started to investigate the San Francisco region, as +upon his decision rested the selection of the site. The bay was pretty +well explored, and the site chosen, near a spring and creek, which was +named from the day,--the last Friday in Lent,--_Arroyo de los Dolores_. +Hence the name so often applied to the Mission itself: it being commonly +known even to-day as "Mission Dolores." + +His duty performed, Anza returned south, and Rivera appointed Lieutenant +Moraga to take charge of the San Francisco colonists, and on July 26, +1776, a camp was pitched on the allotted site. The next day a building +of tules was begun and on the twenty-eighth of the same month mass was +said by Padre Palou. In the meantime, the vessel "San Carlos" was +expected from Monterey with all needful supplies for both the _presidio_ +and the new Mission, but, buffeted by adverse winds, it was forced down +the coast as far as San Diego, and did not arrive outside of what is now +the bay of San Francisco until August 17. + +The two carpenters from the "San Carlos," with a squad of sailors, were +set to work on the new buildings, and on September 17 the foundation +ceremonies of the _presidio_ took place. On that same day, Lord Howe, of +the British army, with his Hessian mercenaries, was rejoicing in the +city of New York in anticipation of an easy conquest of the army of the +revolutionists. + +It was the establishment of that _presidio_, followed by that of the +Mission on October 9, which predestined the name of the future great +American city, born of adventure and romance. + +Padres Palou and Cambon had been hard at work since the end of July. +Aided by Lieutenant Moraga, they built a church fifty-four feet long, +and a house thirty by fifteen feet, both structures being of wood, +plastered with clay, and roofed with tules. On October 3, the day +preceding the festival of St. Francis, bunting and flags from the ships +were brought to decorate the new buildings; but, owing to the absence of +Moraga, the formal dedication did not take place until October 9. Happy +was Serra's friend and brother, Palou, to celebrate high mass at this +dedication of the church named after the great founder of his Order, and +none the less so were his assistants, Fathers Cambon, Nocedal, and Pena. + +Just before the founding of the Mission of San Francisco, the Spanish +Fathers witnessed an Indian battle. Natives advanced from the region of +San Mateo and vigorously attacked the San Francisco Indians, burning +their houses and compelling them to flee on their tule rafts to the +islands and the opposite shores of the bay. Months elapsed before these +defeated Indians returned, to afford the Fathers at San Francisco an +opportunity to work for the salvation of their souls. + +In October of the following year, Serra paid his first visit to San +Francisco, and said mass on the titular saint's day. Then, standing near +the Golden Gate, he exclaimed: "Thanks be to God that now our father, +St. Francis, with the holy professional cross of Missions, has reached +the last limit of the Californian continent. To go farther he must +have boats." + +The same month in which Palou dedicated the northern Mission, found +Serra, with Padre Gregorio Amurrio and ten soldiers, wending their way +from San Diego to San Juan Capistrano, the foundation of which had been +delayed the year previous by the San Diego massacre. They disinterred +the bells and other buried materials and without delay founded the +Mission. With his customary zeal, Serra caused the bells to be hung and +sounded, and said the dedicatory mass on November 1, 1776. The original +location of this Mission, named by the Indians _Sajirit_, was +approximately the site of the present church, whose pathetic ruins speak +eloquently of the frightful earthquake which later destroyed it. + +Aroused by a letter from Viceroy Bucareli, Rivera hastened the +establishment of the eighth Mission. A place was found near the +Guadalupe River, where the Indians named _Tares_ had four _rancherias_, +and which they called _Thamien_. Here Padre Tomas de la Pena planted the +cross, erected an _enramada_, or brush shelter, and on January 12, 1777, +said mass, dedicating the new Mission to the Virgin, Santa Clara, one of +the early converts of Francis of Assisi. + +On February 3, 1777, the new governor of Alta California, Felipe de +Neve, arrived at Monterey and superseded Rivera. He quickly established +the pueblo of San Jose, and, a year or two later, Los Angeles, the +latter under the long title of the pueblo of "Nuestra Senora, Reina de +los Angeles,"--Our Lady, Queen of the Angels. + +In the meantime, contrary to the advice and experience of the padres, +the new Viceroy, Croix, determined to establish two Missions on the +Colorado River, near the site of the present city of Yuma, and conduct +them not as Missions with the Fathers exercising control over the +Indians, but as towns in which the Indians would be under no temporal +restraint. The attempt was unfortunate. The Indians fell upon the +Spaniards and priests, settlers, soldiers, and Governor Rivera himself +perished in the terrific attack. Forty-six men met an awful fate, and +the women were left to a slavery more frightful than death. This was the +last attempt made by the Spaniards to missionize the Yumas. + +With these sad events in mind the Fathers founded San Buenaventura on +March 31, 1782. Serra himself preached the dedicatory sermon. The +Indians came from their picturesque conical huts of tule and straw, to +watch the raising of the cross, and the gathering at this dedication was +larger than at any previous ceremony in California; more than seventy +Spaniards with their families, together with large numbers of Indians, +being there assembled. + +The next month, the _presidio_ of Santa Barbara was established. + +In the end of 1783, Serra visited all the southern Missions to +administer confirmation to the neophytes, and in January, 1784, he +returned to San Carlos at Monterey. + +For some time his health had been failing, asthma and a running sore on +his breast both causing him much trouble. Everywhere uneasiness was felt +at his physical condition, but though he undoubtedly suffered keenly, he +refused to take medicine. The padres were prepared at any time to hear +of his death. But Serra calmly went on with his work. He confirmed the +neophytes at San Luis Obispo and San Antonio, and went to help dedicate +the new church recently built at Santa Clara, and also to San Francisco. +Called back to Santa Clara by the sickness of Padre Murguia, he was +saddened by the death of that noble and good man, and felt he ought to +prepare himself for death. But he found strength to return to San Carlos +at Monterey, and there, on Saturday, August 28, 1784, he passed to his +eternal reward, at the ripe age of seventy years, nine months and four +days. His last act was to walk to the door, in order that he might look +out upon the beautiful face of Nature. The ocean, the sky, the trees, +the valley with its wealth of verdure, the birds, the flowers--all gave +joy to his weary eyes. Returning to his bed, he "fell asleep," and his +work on earth ended. He was buried by his friend Palou at his beloved +Mission in the Carmelo Valley, and there his dust now rests.[1] + +[1] In 1787 Padre Palou published, in the City of Mexico, his "Life and +Apostolic Labors of the Venerable Padre Junipero Serra." This has never +yet been translated, until this year, 1913, the bi-centenary of his +birth, when I have had the work done by a competent scholar, revised by +the eminent Franciscan historian, Father Zephyrin Englehardt, with +annotations. It is a work of over three hundred pages, and is an +important contribution to the historic literature of California. + + + +CHAPTER IV + +THE MISSIONS FOUNDED BY PADRE FERMIN FRANCISCO LASUEN + +AT Padre Serra's death Fermin Francisco Lasuen was chosen to be his +successor as padre-presidente. At the time of his appointment he was the +priest in charge at San Diego. He was elected by the directorate of the +Franciscan College of San Fernando, in the City of Mexico, February 6, +1785, and on March 13, 1787, the Sacred Congregation at Rome confirmed +his appointment, according to him the same right of confirmation which +Serra had exercised. In five years this Father confirmed no less than +ten thousand, one hundred thirty-nine persons. + +Santa Barbara was the next Mission to be founded. For awhile it seemed +that it would be located at Montecito, now the beautiful and picturesque +suburb of its larger sister; but President Lasuen doubtless chose the +site the Mission now occupies. Well up on the foothills of the Sierra +Santa Ines, it has a commanding view of valley, ocean and islands +beyond. Indeed, for outlook, it is doubtful if any other Mission equals +it. It was formally dedicated on December 4, 1786. + +Various obstacles to the establishment of Santa Barbara had been placed +in the way of the priests. Governor Fages wished to curtail their +authority, and sought to make innovations which the padres regarded as +detrimental in the highest degree to the Indians, as well as annoying +and humiliating to themselves. This was the reason of the long delay in +founding Santa Barbara. It was the same with the following Mission. It +had long been decided upon. Its site was selected. The natives called it +_Algsacupi_. It was to be dedicated "to the most pure and sacred mystery +of the Immaculate Conception of the most Holy Virgin Mary, Mother of +God, Queen of Heaven, Queen of Angels, and Our Lady," a name usually, +however, shortened in Spanish parlance to "La Purisima Concepcion." On +December 8, 1787, Lasuen blessed the site, raised the cross, said mass +and preached a sermon; but it was not until March, 1788, that work on +the buildings was begun. An adobe structure, roofed with tiles, was +completed in 1802, and, ten years later, destroyed by earthquake. + +The next Mission founded by Lasuen was that of Santa Cruz. On crossing +the coast range from Santa Clara, he thus wrote: "I found in the site +the most excellent fitness which had been reported to me. I found, +beside, a stream of water, very near, copious, and important. On August +28, the day of Saint Augustine, I said mass, and raised a cross on the +spot where the establishment is to be. Many gentiles came, old and +young, of both sexes, and showed that they would gladly enlist under the +Sacred Standard. Thanks be to God!" + +On Sunday, September 25, Sugert, an Indian chief of the neighborhood, +assured by the priests and soldiers that no harm should come to him or +his people by the noise of exploding gunpowder, came to the formal +founding. Mass was said, a _Te Deum_ chanted, and Don Hermenegildo Sol, +Commandant of San Francisco, took possession of the place, thus +completing the foundation. To-day nothing but a memory remains of the +Mission of the Holy Cross, it having fallen into ruins and totally +disappeared. + +Lasuen's fourth Mission was founded in this same year, 1791. He had +chosen a site, called by the Indians _Chuttusgelis_, and always known to +the Spaniards as Soledad, since their first occupation of the country. +Here, on October 9, Lasuen, accompanied by Padres Sitjar and Garcia, in +the presence of Lieutenant Jose Argueello, the guard, and a few natives, +raised the cross, blessed the site, said mass, and formally established +the Mission of "Nuestra Senyora de la Soledad." + +One interesting entry in the Mission books is worthy of mention. In +September, 1787, two vessels belonging to the newly founded United +States sailed from Boston. The smaller of these was the "Lady +Washington," under command of Captain Gray. In the Soledad Mission +register of baptisms, it is written that on May 19, 1793, there was +baptized a Nootka Indian, twenty years of age, "Inquina, son of a +gentile father, named Taguasmiki, who in the year 1789 was killed by the +American Gert [undoubtedly Gray], Captain of the vessel called +'Washington,' belonging to the Congress of Boston." + +For six years no new Missions were founded: then, in 1797, four were +established, and one in 1798. These, long contemplated, were delayed for +a variety of reasons. It was the purpose of the Fathers to have the new +Missions farther inland than those already established, that they might +reach more of the natives: those who lived in the valleys and on the +slopes of the foothills. Besides this, it had always been the intent of +the Spanish government that further explorations of the interior country +should take place, so that, as the Missions became strong enough to +support themselves, the Indians there might be brought under the +influence of the Church. Governor Neve's regulations say: + +"It is made imperative to increase the number of Reductions (stations +for converting the Indians) in proportion to the vastness of the country +occupied, and although this must be carried out in the succession and +order aforesaid, as fast as the older establishments shall be fully +secure, etc.," and earlier, "while the breadth of the country is unknown +(it) is presumed to be as great as the length, or greater (200 leagues), +since its greatest breadth is counted by thousands of leagues." + +Various investigations were made by the nearest priests in order to +select the best locations for the proposed Missions, and, in 1796, +Lasuen reported the results to the new governor, Borica, who in turn +communicated them to the Viceroy in Mexico. Approval was given and +orders issued for the establishment of the five new Missions. + +On June 9, 1797, Lasuen left San Francisco for the founding of the +Mission San Jose, then called the Alameda. The following day, a brush +church was erected, and, on the morrow, the usual foundation ceremonies +occurred. The natives named the site _Oroysom_. Beautifully situated on +the foothills, with a prominent peak near by, it offers an extensive +view over the southern portion of the San Francisco Bay region. At +first, a wooden structure with a grass roof served as a church; but +later a brick structure was erected, which Von Langsdorff visited +in 1806. + +It seems singular to us at this date that although the easiest means of +communication between the Missions of Santa Clara, San Jose and San +Francisco was by water on the Bay of San Francisco, the padre and +soldiers at San Francisco had no boat or vessel of any kind. Langsdorff +says of this: "Perhaps the missionaries are afraid lest if there were +boats, they might facilitate the escape of the Indians, who never wholly +lose their love of freedom and their attachment to their native habits; +they therefore consider it better to confine their communication with +one another to the means afforded by the land. The Spaniards, as well as +their nurslings, the Indians, are very seldom under the necessity of +trusting themselves to the waves, and if such a necessity occur, they +make a kind of boat for the occasion, of straw, reeds, and rushes, bound +together so closely as to be water-tight. In this way they contrive to +go very easily from one shore to the other. Boats of this kind are +called _walza_ by the Spanish. The oars consist of a thin, long pole +somewhat broader at each end, with which the occupants row sometimes on +one side, sometimes on the other." + +For the next Mission two sites were suggested; but, as early as June 17, +Corporal Ballesteros erected a church, missionary-house, granary, and +guard-house at the point called by the natives _Popeloutchom_, and by +the Spaniards, San Benito. Eight days later, Lasuen, aided by Padres +Catala and Martiarena, founded the Mission dedicated to the saint of +that day, San Juan Bautista. + +Next in order, between the two Missions of San Antonio de Padua and San +Luis Obispo, was that of "the most glorious prince of the heavenly +militia," San Miguel. Lasuen, aided by Sitjar, in the presence of a +large number of Indians, performed the ceremony in the usual form, on +July 25, 1797. This Mission eventually grew to large proportions and its +interior remains to-day almost exactly as decorated by the hands of the +original priests. + +San Fernando Rey was next established, on September 8, by Lasuen, aided +by Padre Dumetz. + +After extended correspondence between Lasuen and Governor Borica, a +site, called by the natives _Tacayme_, was finally chosen for locating +the next Mission, which was to bear the name of San Luis, Rey de +Francia. Thus it became necessary to distinguish between the two saints +of the same name: San Luis, Bishop (Obispo), and San Luis, King; but +modern American parlance has eliminated the comma, and they are +respectively San Luis Obispo and San Luis Rey. Lasuen, with the honored +Padre Peyri and Padre Santiago, conducted the ceremonies on June 13, and +the hearts of all concerned were made glad by the subsequent baptism of +fifty-four children. + +It was as an adjunct to this Mission that Padre Peyri, in 1816, founded +the chapel of San Antonio de Pala, twenty miles east from San Luis Rey: +to which place were removed the Palatingwas, or Agua Calientes, evicted +a few years ago from Warner's Ranch. This chapel has the picturesque +_campanile_, or small detached belfry, the pictures of which are known +throughout the world. + +With the founding of San Luis Rey this branch of the work of President +Lasuen terminated. Bancroft regards him as a greater man than Serra, and +one whose life and work entitle him to the highest praise. He died at +San Carlos on June 26, 1803, and was buried by the side of Serra. + + + +CHAPTER V + +THE FOUNDING OF SANTA INES, SAN RAFAEL AND SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO + +Estevan Tapis now became president of the Missions, and under his +direction was founded the nineteenth Mission, that of Santa Ines, virgin +and martyr. Tapis himself conducted the ceremonies, preaching a sermon +to a large congregation, including Commandant Carrillo, on September +17, 1804. + +With Lasuen, the Mission work of California reached its maximum power. +Under his immediate successors it began to decline. Doubtless the fact +that the original chain was completed was an influence in the decrease +of activity. For thirteen years there was no extension. A few minor +attempts were made to explore the interior country, and many of the +names now used for rivers and locations in the San Joaquin Valley were +given at this time. Nothing further, however, was done, until in 1817, +when such a wide-spread mortality affected the Indians at the San +Francisco Mission, that Governor Sola suggested that the afflicted +neophytes be removed to a new and healthful location on the north shore +of the San Francisco Bay. A few were taken to what is now San Rafael, +and while some recovered, many died. These latter, not having received +the last rites of religion, were subjects of great solicitude on the +part of some of the priests, and, at last, Father Taboada, who had +formerly been the priest at La Purisima Concepcion, consented to take +charge of this branch Mission. The native name of the site was +_Nanaguani_. On December 14, Padre Sarria, assisted by several other +priests, conducted the ceremony of dedication to San Rafael Arcangel. It +was originally intended to be an _asistencia_ of San Francisco, but +although there is no record that it was ever formally raised to the +dignity of an independent Mission, it is called and enumerated as such +from the year 1823 in all the reports of the Fathers. To-day, not a +brick of its walls remains; the only evidence of its existence being the +few old pear trees planted early in its history. + +There are those who contend that San Rafael was founded as a direct +check to the southward aggressions of the Russians, who in 1812 had +established Fort Ross, but sixty-five miles north of San Francisco. +There seems, however, to be no recorded authority for this belief, +although it may easily be understood how anxious this close proximity of +the Russians made the Spanish authorities. + +They had further causes of anxiety. The complications between Mexico and +Spain, which culminated in the independence of the former, and then the +establishment of the Empire, gave the leaders enough to occupy +their minds. + +The final establishment took place in 1823, without any idea of founding +a new Mission. The change to San Rafael had been so beneficial to the +sick Indians that Canon Fernandez, Prefect Payeras, and Governor +Argueello decided to transfer bodily the Mission of San Francisco from +the peninsula to the mainland north of the bay, and make San Rafael +dependent upon it. An exploring expedition was sent out which somewhat +carefully examined the whole neighborhood and finally reported in favor +of the Sonoma Valley. The report being accepted, on July 4, 1823, a +cross was set up and blessed on the site, which was named New San +Francisco. + +Padre Altimira, one of the explorers, now wrote to the new padre +presidente--Senan--explaining what he had done, and his reasons for so +doing; stating that San Francisco could no longer exist, and that San +Rafael was unable to subsist alone. Discussion followed, and Sarria, the +successor of Senan, who had died, refused to authorize the change; +expressing himself astonished at the audacity of those who had dared to +take so important a step without consulting the supreme government. Then +Altimira, infuriated, wrote to the governor, who had been a party to the +proposed removal, concluding his tirade by saying: + +"I came to convert gentiles and to establish new Missions, and if I +cannot do it here, which, as we all agree, is the best spot in +California for the purpose, I will leave the country." + +Governor Argueello assisted his priestly friend as far as he was able, +and apprised Sarria that he would sustain the new establishment; +although he would withdraw the order for the suppression of San Rafael. +A compromise was then effected by which New San Francisco was to remain +a Mission in regular standing, but neither San Rafael nor old San +Francisco were to be disturbed. + +Is it not an inspiring subject for speculation? Where would the modern +city of San Francisco be, if the irate Father and plotting politicians +of those early days had been successful in their schemes? + +The new Mission, all controversy being settled, was formally dedicated +on Passion Sunday, April 4, 1824, by Altimira, to San Francisco Solano, +"the great apostle to the Indies." There were now two San Franciscos, de +Asis and Solano, and because of the inconvenience arising from this +confusion, the popular names, Dolores and Solano, and later, Sonoma, +came into use. + +From the point now reached, the history of the Missions is one of +distress, anxiety, and final disaster. Their great work was +practically ended. + + + +CHAPTER VI + +THE INDIANS AT THE COMING OF THE PADRES + +It is generally believed that the California Indian in his original +condition was one of the most miserable and wretched of the world's +aborigines. As one writer puts it: + + "When discovered by the padres he was almost naked, half + starved, living in filthy little hovels built of tule, + speaking a meagre language broken up into as many different + and independent dialects as there were tribes, having no laws + and few definite customs, cruel, simple, lazy, and--in one + word which best describes such a condition of + existence--wretched. There are some forms of savage life that + we can admire; there are others that can only excite our + disgust; of the latter were the California Indians." + +This is the general attitude taken by most writers of this later day, as +well as of the padres themselves, yet I think I shall be able to show +that in some regards it is a mistaken one. I do not believe the Indians +were the degraded and brutal creatures the padres and others have +endeavored to make out. This is no charge of bad faith against these +writers. It is merely a criticism of their judgment. + +The fact that in a few years the Indians became remarkably competent in +so many fields of skilled labor is the best answer to the unfounded +charges of abject savagery. Peoples are not civilized nor educated in a +day. Brains cannot be put into a monkey, no matter how well educated his +teacher is. There must have been the mental quality, the ability to +learn; or even the miraculous patience, perseverance, and love of the +missionaries would not have availed to teach them, in several hundred +years, much less, then, in the half-century they had them under their +control, the many things we know they learned. + +The Indians, prior to the coming of the padres, were skilled in some +arts, as the making of pottery, basketry, canoes, stone axes, arrow +heads, spear heads, stone knives, and the like. Holder says of the +inhabitants of Santa Catalina that although their implements were of +stone, wood, or shell "the skill with which they modelled and made their +weapons, mortars, and steatite _ollas_, their rude mosaics of abalone +shells, and their manufacture of pipes, medicine-tubes, and flutes give +them high rank among savages." The mortars found throughout California, +some of which are now to be seen in the museums of Santa Barbara, Los +Angeles, San Diego, etc., are models in shape and finish. As for their +basketry, I have elsewhere[2] shown that it alone stamps them as an +artistic, mechanically skilful, and mathematically inclined people, and +the study of their designs and their meanings reveal a love of nature, +poetry, sentiment, and religion that put them upon a superior plane. + +[2] Indian Basketry, especially the chapters on Form, Poetry, and +Symbolism. + +Cabrillo was the first white man so far as we know who visited the +Indians of the coast of California. He made his memorable journey in +1542-1543. In 1539, Ulloa sailed up the Gulf of California, and, a year +later, Alarcon and Diaz explored the Colorado River, possibly to the +point where Yuma now stands. These three men came in contact with the +Cocopahs and the Yumas, and possibly with other tribes. + +Cabrillo tells of the Indians with whom he held communication. They were +timid and somewhat hostile at first, but easily appeased. Some of them, +especially those living on the islands (now known as San Clemente, Santa +Catalina, Anacapa, Santa Barbara, Santa Rosa, San Miguel, and Santa +Cruz), were superior to those found inland. They rowed in pine canoes +having a seating capacity of twelve or thirteen men, and were expert +fishermen. They dressed in the skins of animals, were rude +agriculturists, and built for themselves shelters or huts of willows, +tules, and mud. + +The principal written source of authority for our knowledge of the +Indians at the time of the arrival of the Fathers is Fray Geronimo +Boscana's _Chinigchinich: A Historical Account, etc., of the Indians of +San Juan Capistrano_. There are many interesting things in this account, +some of importance, and others of very slight value. He insists that +there was a great difference in the intelligence of the natives north of +Santa Barbara and those to the south, in favor of the former. Of these +he says they "are much more industrious, and appear an entirely distinct +race. They formed, from shells, a kind of money, which passed current +among them, and they constructed out of logs very swift and excellent +canoes for fishing." + +Of the character of his Indians he had a very poor idea. He compares +them to monkeys who imitate, and especially in their copying the ways of +the white men, "whom they respect as beings much superior to themselves; +but in so doing, they are careful to select vice in preference to +virtue. This is the result, undoubtedly, of their corrupt and natural +disposition." + +Of the language of the California Indians, Boscana says there was great +diversity, finding a new dialect almost every fifteen to twenty leagues. + +They were not remarkably industrious, yet the men made their home +utensils, bows and arrows, the several instruments used in making +baskets, and also constructed nets, spinning the thread from yucca +fibres, which they beat and prepared for that purpose. They also built +the houses. + +The women gathered seeds, prepared them, and did the cooking, as well as +all the household duties. They made the baskets, all other utensils +being made by the men. + +The dress of the men, when they dressed at all, consisted of the skins +of animals thrown over the shoulders, leaving the rest of the body +exposed, but the women wore a cloak and dress of twisted rabbit-skins. I +have found these same rabbit-skin dresses in use by Mohave and Yumas +within the past three or four years. + +The youths were required to keep away from the fire, in order that they +might learn to suffer with bravery and courage. They were forbidden also +to eat certain kinds of foods, to teach them to bear deprivation and to +learn to control their appetites. In addition to these there were +certain ceremonies, which included fasting, abstinence from drinking, +and the production of hallucinations by means of a vegetable drug, +called pivat (still used, by the way, by some of the Indians of Southern +California), and the final branding of the neophyte, which Boscana +describes as follows: "A kind of herb was pounded until it became +sponge-like; this they placed, according to the figure required, upon +the spot intended to be burnt, which was generally upon the right arm, +and sometimes upon the thick part of the leg also. They then set fire to +it, and let it remain until all that was combustible was consumed. +Consequently, a large blister immediately formed, and although painful, +they used no remedy to cure it, but left it to heal itself; and thus, a +large and perpetual scar remained. The reason alleged for this ceremony +was that it added greater strength to the nerves, and gave a better +pulse for the management of the bow." This ceremony was called +_potense._ + +The education of the girls was by no means neglected. + + "They were taught to remain at home, and not to roam about in + idleness; to be always employed in some domestic duty, so + that, when they were older, they might know how to work, and + attend to their household duties; such as procuring seeds, + and cleaning them--making 'atole' and 'pinole,' which are + kinds of gruel, and their daily food. When quite young, they + have a small, shallow basket, called by the natives 'tucmel,' + with which they learn the way to clean the seeds, and they + are also instructed in grinding, and preparing the same for + consumption." + +When a girl was married, her father gave her good advice as to her +conduct. She must be faithful to her wifely duties and do nothing to +disgrace either her husband or her parents. Children of tender years +were sometimes betrothed by their parents. Padre Boscana says he married +a couple, the girl having been but eight or nine months old, and the boy +two years, when they were contracted for by their parents. + +Childbirth was natural and easy with them, as it generally is with all +primitive peoples. An Indian woman has been known to give birth to a +child, walk half a mile to a stream, step into it and wash both herself +and the new-born babe, then return to her camp, put her child in a +_yakia_, or basket cradle-carrier, sling it over her back, and start on +a four or five mile journey, on foot, up the rocky and steep sides of +a canyon. + +A singular custom prevailed among these people, not uncommon elsewhere. +The men, when their wives were suffering their accouchement, would +abstain from all flesh and fish, refrain from smoking and all +diversions, and stay within the _Kish_, or hut, from fifteen to +twenty days. + +The god of the San Juan Indians was Chinigchinich, and it is possible, +from similarity in the ways of appearing and disappearing, that he is +the monster Tauguitch of the Sabobas and Cahuillas described in The +Legend of Tauguitch and Algoot.[3] This god was a queer compound of +goodness and evil, who taught them all the rites and ceremonies that +they afterwards observed. + +[3] See Folk Lore Journal, 1904. + +Many of the men and a few women posed as possessing supernatural +powers--witches, in fact, and such was the belief in their power that, +"without resistance, all immediately acquiesce in their demands." They +also had physicians who used cold water, plasters of herbs, whipping +with nettles (doubtless the principle of the counter irritant), the +smoke of certain plants, and incantations, with a great deal of general, +all-around humbug to produce their cures. + +But not all the medicine ideas and methods of the Indians were to be +classed as humbug. Dr. Cephas L. Bard, who, besides extolling their +temescals, or sweat-baths, their surgical abilities, as displayed in the +operations that were performed upon skulls that have since been exhumed; +their hygienic customs, which he declares "are not only commendable, but +worthy of the consideration of an advanced civilization," +states further: + + "It has been reserved for the California Indian to furnish + three of the most valuable vegetable additions which have + been made to the Pharmacopoeia during the last twenty years. + One, the Eriodictyon Glutinosum, growing profusely in our + foothills, was used by them in affections of the respiratory + tract, and its worth was so appreciated by the Missionaries + as to be named Yerba Santa, or Holy Plant. The second, the + Rhamnus purshiana, gathered now for the market in the upper + portions of the State, is found scattered through the + timbered mountains of Southern California. It was used as a + laxative, and on account of the constipating effect of an + acorn diet, was doubtless in active demand. So highly was it + esteemed by the followers of the Cross that it was christened + Cascara Sagrada, or Sacred Bark. The third, Grindelia + robusta, was used in the treatment of pulmonary troubles, and + externally in poisoning from Rhus toxicodendron, or Poison + Oak, and in various skin diseases." + +Their food was of the crudest and simplest character. Whatever they +could catch they ate, from deer or bear to grasshoppers, lizards, rats, +and snakes. In baskets of their own manufacture, they gathered all +kinds of wild seeds, and after using a rude process of threshing, they +winnowed them. They also gathered mesquite beans in large quantities, +burying them in pits for a month or two, in order to extract from them +certain disagreeable flavors, and then storing them in large and rudely +made willow granaries. But, as Dr. Bard well says: + + "Of the Vegetable articles of diet the acorn was the + principal one. It was deprived of its bitter taste by + grinding, running through sieves made of interwoven grasses, + and frequent washings. Another one was Chia, the seeds of + Salvia Columbariae, which in appearance are somewhat similar + to birdseed. They were roasted, ground, and used as a food by + being mixed with water. Thus prepared, it soon develops into + a mucilaginous mass, larger than its original bulk. Its taste + is somewhat like that of linseed meal. It is exceedingly + nutritious, and was readily borne by the stomach when that + organ refused to tolerate other aliment. An atole, or gruel, + of this was one of the peace offerings to the first visiting + sailors. One tablespoonful of these seeds was sufficient to + sustain for twenty-four hours an Indian on a forced march. + Chia was no less prized by the native Californian, and at + this late date it frequently commands $6 or $8 a pound. + + "The pinion, the fruit of the pine, was largely used, and + until now annual expeditions are made by the few surviving + members of the coast tribes to the mountains for a supply. + That they cultivated maize in certain localities, there can + be but little doubt. They intimated to Cabrillo by signs that + such was the case, and the supposition is confirmed by the + presence at various points of vestiges of irrigating ditches. + Yslay, the fruit of the wild cherry, was used as a food, and + prepared by fermentation as an intoxicant. The seeds, ground + and made into balls, were esteemed highly. The fruit of the + manzanita, the seeds of burr clover, malva, and alfileri, + were also used. Tunas, the fruit of the cactus, and wild + blackberries, existed in abundance, and were much relished. A + sugar was extracted from a certain reed of the tulares." + +Acorns, seeds, mesquite beans, and dried meat were all pounded up in a +well made granite mortar, on the top of which, oftentimes, a basket +hopper was fixed by means of pine gum. Some of these mortars were hewn +from steatite, or soapstone, others from a rough basic rock, and many of +them were exceedingly well made and finely shaped; results requiring +much patience and no small artistic skill. Oftentimes these mortars were +made in the solid granite rocks or boulders, found near the harvesting +and winnowing places, and I have photographed many such during +late years. + +These Indians were polygamists, but much of what the missionaries and +others have called their obscenities and vile conversations, were the +simple and unconscious utterances of men and women whose instincts were +not perverted. It is the invariable testimony of all careful observers +of every class that as a rule the aborigines were healthy, vigorous, +virile, and chaste, until they became demoralized by the whites. With +many of them certain ceremonies had a distinct flavor of sex worship: a +rude phallicism which exists to the present day. To the priests, as to +most modern observers, these rites were offensive and obscene, but to +the Indians they were only natural and simple prayers for the +fruitfulness of their wives and of the other producing forces. + +J.S. Hittell says of the Indians of California: + + "They had no religion, no conception of a deity, or of a + future life, no idols, no form of worship, no priests, no + philosophical conceptions, no historical traditions, no + proverbs, no mode of recording thought before the coming of + the missionaries among them." + +Seldom has there been so much absolute misstatement as in this +quotation. Jeremiah Curtin, a life-long student of the Indian, speaking +of the same Indians, makes a remark which applies with force to these +statements: + + "The Indian, _at every step_, stood face to face with + divinity as he knew or understood it. He could never escape + from the presence of those powers who had made the first + world.... The most important question of all in Indian life + was communication with divinity, intercourse with the spirits + of divine personages." + +In his _Creation Myths of Primitive America_, this studious author gives +the names of a number of divinities, and the legends connected with +them. He affirms positively that + + "the most striking thing in all savage belief is the low + estimate put upon man, when unaided by divine, uncreated + power. In Indian belief every object in the universe is + divine except man!" + +As to their having no priests, no forms of worship, no philosophical +conceptions, no historical traditions, no proverbs, any one interested +in the Indian of to-day knows that these things are untrue. Whence came +all the myths and legends that recent writers have gathered, a score of +which I myself hold still unpublished in my notebook? Were they all +imagined after the arrival of the Mission Fathers? By no means! They +have been handed down for countless centuries, and they come to us, +perhaps a little corrupted, but still just as accurate as do the +songs of Homer. + +Every tribe had its medicine men, who were developed by a most rigorous +series of tests; such as would dismay many a white man. As to their +philosophical conceptions and traditions, Curtin well says that in them + + "we have a monument of thought which is absolutely + unequalled, altogether unique in human experience. The + special value of this thought lies, moreover, in the fact + that it is primitive; that it is the thought of ages long + anterior to those which we find recorded in the eastern + hemisphere, either in sacred books, in histories, or in + literature, whether preserved on baked brick, burnt + cylinders, or papyrus." + +And if we go to the Pueblo Indians, the Navahos, the Pimas, and others, +all of whom were brought more or less under the influence of the +Franciscans, we find a mass of beliefs, deities, traditions, +conceptions, and proverbs, which would overpower Mr. Hittell merely +to collate. + +Therefore, let it be distinctly understood that the Indian was not the +thoughtless, unimaginative, irreligious, brutal savage which he is too +often represented to be. He thought, and thought well, but still +originally. He was religious, profoundly and powerfully so, but in his +own way; he was a philosopher, but not according to Hittell; he was a +worshipper, but not after the method of Serra, Palou, and their priestly +coadjutors. + + + +CHAPTER VII + +THE INDIANS UNDER THE PADRES + +The first consideration of the padres in dealing with the Indians was +the salvation of their souls. Of this no honest and honorable man can +hold any question. Serra and his coadjutors believed, without +equivocation or reserve, the doctrines of the Church. As one reads his +diary, his thought on this matter is transparent. In one place he thus +naively writes: "It seemed to me that they (the Indians) would fall +shortly into the apostolic and evangelic net." + +This accomplished, the Indians must be kept Christians, educated and +civilized. Here is the crucial point. In reading criticisms upon the +Mission system of dealing with the Indians, one constantly meets with +such passages as the following: "The fatal defect of this whole Spanish +system was that no effort was made to educate the Indians, or teach them +to read, and think, and act for themselves." + +To me this kind of criticism is both unjust and puerile. What is +education? What is civilization? + +Expert opinions as to these matters vary considerably, and it is in the +very nature of men that they should vary. The Catholics had their ideas +and they sought to carry them out with care and fidelity. How far they +succeeded it is for the unprejudiced historians and philosophers of the +future to determine. Personally, I regard the education given by the +padres as eminently practical, even though I materially differ from them +as to some of the things they regarded as religious essentials. Yet in +honor it must be said that if I, or the Church to which I belong, or you +and the Church to which you belong, reader, had been in California in +those early days, your religious teaching or mine would have been +entitled, justly, to as much criticism and censure as have ever been +visited upon that of the padres. They did the best they knew, and, as I +shall soon show, they did wonderfully well, far better than the +enlightened government to which we belong has ever done. Certain +essentials stood out before them. These were, to see that the Indians +were baptized, taught the ritual of the Church, lived as nearly as +possible according to the rules laid down for them, attended the +services regularly, did their proper quota of work, were faithful +husbands and wives and dutiful children. Feeling that they were indeed +fathers of a race of children, the priests required obedience and work, +as the father of any well-regulated American household does. And as a +rule these "children," though occasionally rebellious, were +willingly obedient. + +Under this regime it is unquestionably true that the lot of the Indians +was immeasurably improved from that of their aboriginal condition. They +were kept in a state of reasonable cleanliness, were well clothed, were +taught and required to do useful work, learned many new and helpful +arts, and were instructed in the elemental matters of the Catholic +faith. All these things were a direct advance. + +It should not be overlooked, however, that the Spanish government +provided skilled laborers from Spain or Mexico, and paid their hire, for +the purpose of aiding the settlers in the various pueblos that were +established. Master mechanics, carpenters, blacksmiths, and stone masons +are mentioned in Governor Neve's Rules and Regulations, and it is +possible that some of the Indians were taught by these skilled artisans. +Under the guidance of the padres some of them were taught how to weave. +Cotton was both grown and imported, and all the processes of converting +it, and wool also, into cloth, were undertaken with skill and knowledge. + +At San Juan Capistrano the swing and thud of the loom were constantly +heard, there having been at one time as many as forty weavers all +engaged at once in this useful occupation. + +San Gabriel and San Luis Rey also had many expert weavers. + +At all the Missions the girls and women, as well as the men, had their +share in the general education. They had always been seed gatherers, +grinders, and preparers of the food, and now they were taught the +civilized methods of doing these things. Many became tailors as well as +weavers; others learned to dye the made fabrics, as in the past they had +dyed their basketry splints; and still others--indeed nearly all--became +skilled in the delicate art of lace-making and drawn-work. They were +natural adepts at fine embroidery, as soon as the use of the needle and +colored threads was shown them, and some exquisite work is still +preserved that they accomplished in this field. As candy-makers they +soon became expert and manifested judicious taste. + +To return to the men. Many of them became herders of cattle, horses and +sheep, teamsters, and butchers. At San Gabriel alone a hundred cattle +were slaughtered every Saturday as food for the Indians themselves. The +hides of all slain animals were carefully preserved, and either tanned +for home use or shipped East. Dana in _Two Years Before the Mast_ gives +interesting pictures of hide-shipping at San Juan Capistrano. A good +tanner is a skilled laborer, and these Indians were not only expert +makers of dressed leather, but they tanned skins and peltries with the +hair or fur on. Indeed I know of many wonderful birds' skins, dressed +with the feathers on, that are still in perfect preservation. As workers +in leather they have never been surpassed. Many saddles, bridles, etc., +were needed for Mission use, and as the ranches grew in numbers, they +created a large market. It must be remembered that horseback riding was +the chief method of travel in California for over a hundred years. Their +carved leather work is still the wonder of the world. In the striking +character of their designs, in the remarkable adaptation of the design, +in its general shape and contour, to the peculiar form of the object to +be decorated,--a stirrup, a saddle, a belt, etc.,--and in the digital +and manual dexterity demanded by its execution, nothing is left to be +desired. Equally skilful were they in taking the horn of an ox or +mountain sheep, heating it, and then shaping it into a drinking-cup, a +spoon, or a ladle, and carving upon it designs that equal those found +upon the pottery of the ancient world. + +Shoemaking was extensively carried on, for sale on the ranches and to +the trading-vessels. Tallow was tried out by the ton and run into +underground brick vaults, some of which would hold in one mass several +complete ship-loads. This was quarried out and then hauled to San Pedro, +or the nearest port, for shipment. Sometimes it was run into great bags +made of hides, that would hold from five hundred to a thousand pounds +each, and then shipped. + +Many of the Indians became expert carpenters, and a few even might be +classed as fair cabinet-makers. There were wheelwrights and cart-makers +who made the "carretas" that are now the joy of the relic-hunter. These +were clumsy ox-carts, with wheels made of blocks, sawed or chopped off +from the end of a large round log; a big hole was then bored, chiseled, +or burned through its center, enabling it to turn on a rude wooden axle. +Soap or tallow was sometimes used as a lubricant. This was the only +wheeled conveyance in California as late as 1840. Other Indians did the +woodwork in buildings, made fences, etc. Some were carvers, and there +are not a few specimens of their work that will bear comparison with the +work of far more pretentious artisans. + +Many of them became' blacksmiths and learned to work well in iron. In +the Coronel Collection in the Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce are many +specimens of the ironwork of the San Fernando neophytes. The work of +this Mission was long and favorably known as that of superior artisans. +The collection includes plough-points, anvils, bells, hoes, chains, +locks and keys, spurs, hinges, scissors, cattle-brands, and other +articles of use in the Mission communities. There are also fine +specimens of hammered copper, showing their ability in this branch of +the craftsman's art. As there was no coal at this time in California, +these metal-workers all became charcoal-burners. + +Bricks of adobe and also burned bricks and tiles were made at every +Mission, I believe, and in later years tiles were made for sale for the +houses of the more pretentious inhabitants of the pueblos. As lime and +cement were needed, the Indians were taught how to burn the lime of the +country, and the cement work then done remains to this day as solid as +when it was first put down. + +Many of them became expert bricklayers and stone-masons and cutters, as +such work as that found at San Luis Rey, San Juan Capistrano, San +Carlos, Santa Ines, and other Missions most eloquently testifies. + +It is claimed that much of the distemper painting upon the church walls +was done by the Indians, though surely it would be far easier to believe +that the Fathers did it than they. For with their training in natural +design, as shown in their exquisite baskets, and the work they +accomplished in leather carving, I do not hesitate to say that mural +decorations would have been far more artistic in design, more harmonious +in color, and more skilfully executed if the Indians had been left to +their own native ability. + +A few became silversmiths, though none ever accomplished much in this +line. They made better sandal-makers, shoemakers, and hatters. As +horse-trainers they were speedily most efficient, the cunning of their +minds finding a natural outlet in gaining supremacy over the lower +animal. They braided their own riatas from rawhide, and soon surpassed +their teachers in the use of them. They were fearless hunters with them, +often "roping" the mountain lion and even going so far as to capture the +dangerous grizzly bears with no other "weapon," and bring them down +from the mountains for their bear and bull fights. As vaqueros, or +cowboys, they were a distinct class. As daring riders as the world has +ever seen, they instinctively knew the arts of herding cattle and sheep, +and soon had that whole field of work in their keeping. "H.H.," in +_Ramona_, has told what skilled sheep-shearers they were, and there are +Indian bands to-day in Southern California whose services are eagerly +sought at good wages because of their thoroughness, skill and rapidity. + +Now, with this list of achievements, who shall say they were not +educated? Something more than lack of education must be looked for as +the reason for the degradation and disappearance of the Indian, and in +the next chapter I think I can supply that missing reason. + +At the end of sixty years, more than thirty thousand Indian converts +lodged in the Mission buildings, under the direct and immediate guidance +of the Fathers, and performed their allotted daily labors with +cheerfulness and thoroughness. There were some exceptions necessarily, +but in the main the domination of the missionaries was complete. + +It has often been asked: "What became of all the proceeds of the work of +the Mission Indians? Did the padres claim it personally? Was it sent to +the mother house in Mexico?" etc. These questions naturally enter the +minds of those who have read the criticisms of such writers as Wilson, +Guinn, and Scanland. In regard to the missionaries, they were under a +vow of poverty. As to the mother house, it is asserted on honor that up +to 1838 not even as much as a _curio_ had been sent there. After that, +as is well known, there was nothing to send. The fact is, the proceeds +all went into the Indian Community Fund for the benefit of the Indians, +or the improvement of their Mission church, gardens, or workshops. The +most careful investigations by experts have led to but one opinion, and +that is that in the early days there was little or no foundation for the +charge that the padres were accumulating money. During the revolution it +is well known that the Missions practically supported the military for a +number of years, even though the padres, their wards, and their churches +all suffered in consequence. + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +THE SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS + +It was not the policy or intention of the Government of Spain to found +Missions in the New World solely for the benefit of the natives. +Philanthropic motives doubtless influenced the rulers to a certain +degree; but to civilize barbarous peoples and convert them to the +Catholic faith meant not only the rescue of savages from future +perdition, but the enlargement of the borders of the Church, the +preparation for future colonization, and, consequently, the extension of +Spanish power and territory. + +At the very inception of the Missions this was the complex end in view; +but the padres who were commissioned to initiate these enterprises were, +almost without exception, consecrated to one work only,--the +salvation of souls. + +In the course of time this inevitably led to differences of opinion +between the missionaries and the secular authorities in regard to the +wisest methods of procedure. In spite of the arguments of the padres, +these conflicts resulted in the secularization of some of the Missions +prior to the founding of those in California; but the condition of the +Indians on the Pacific Coast led the padres to believe that +secularization was a result possible only in a remote future. They fully +understood that the Missions were not intended to become permanent +institutions, yet faced the problem of converting a savage race into +christianized self-supporting civilians loyal to the Spanish Crown,--a +problem which presented perplexities and difficulties neither understood +nor appreciated at the time by the government authorities in Spain or +Mexico, nor by the mass of critics of the padres in our own day. + +Whatever may have been the mental capacity, ability, and moral status of +the Indians from one point of view, it is certain that the padres +regarded them as ignorant, vile, incapable, and totally lost without the +restraining and educating influences of the Church. As year after year +opened up the complexities of the situation, the padres became more and +more convinced that it would require an indefinite period of time to +develop these untamed children into law-abiding citizens, according to +the standard of the white aggressors upon their territory. + +On the other hand, aside from envy, jealousy, and greed, there were +reasons why some of the men in authority honestly believed a change in +the Mission system of administration would be advantageous to the +natives, the Church, and the State. + +There is a good as well as an evil side to the great subject of +"secularization." In England the word used is "disestablishment." In the +United States, to-day, for our own government, the general sentiment of +most of its inhabitants is in favor of what is meant by +"secularization," though of course in many particulars the cases are +quite different. In other words, it means the freedom of the Church from +the control or help of the State. In such an important matter there is +bound to be great diversity of opinion. Naturally, the church that is +"disestablished" will be a most bitter opponent of the plan, as was the +Church in Ireland, in Scotland, and in Wales. In England the +"dissenters"--as all the members of the nonconformist churches are +entitled--are practically unanimous for the disestablishment of the +State or Episcopal Church, while the Episcopalians believe that such an +act would "provoke the wrath of God upon the country wicked enough to +perpetrate it." The same conflict--in a slightly different field--is +that being waged in the United States to-day against giving aid to any +church in its work of educating either white children or Indians in its +own sectarian institutions. All the leading churches of the country +have, I believe, at some time or other in their history, been willing to +receive, and actually have received, government aid in the caring for +and education of Indians. To-day it is a generally accepted policy that +no such help shall be given. But the question at issue is: Was the +secularization of the Missions by Mexico a wise, just, and humane +measure at the time of its adoption? Let the following history tell. + +From the founding of the San Diego Mission in 1769, until about sixty +years later, the padres were practically in undisturbed possession, +administering affairs in accordance with the instructions issued by the +viceroys and the mother house of Mexico. + +In 1787 Inspector Sola claimed that the Indians were then ready for +secularization; and if there be any honor connected with the plan +eventually followed, it practically belongs to him. For, though none of +his recommendations were accepted, he suggested the overthrow of the old +methods for others which were somewhat of the same character as those +carried out many years later. + +In 1793 Viceroy Gigedo referred to the secularization of certain +Missions which had taken place in Mexico, and expressed his +dissatisfaction with the results. Three years later, Governor Borica, +writing on the same subject, expressed his opinion with force and +emphasis, as to the length of time it would take to prepare the +California Indians for citizenship. He said: "Those of New California, +at the rate they are advancing, will not reach the goal in ten +centuries; the reason God knows, and men know something about it." + +In 1813 came the first direct attack upon the Mission system from the +Cortes in Spain. Prior to this time a bishop had been appointed to have +charge over church affairs in California, but there were too few parish +churches, and he had too few clergy to send to such a far-away field to +think of disturbing the present system for the Indians. But on September +13, 1813, the Cortes passed a decree that all the Missions in America +that had been founded ten years should at once be given up to the bishop +"without excuse or pretext whatever, in accordance with the laws." The +Mission Fathers in charge might be appointed as temporary curates, but, +of course, under the control of the bishop instead of the Mission +president as hitherto. This decree, for some reason, was not officially +published or known in California for seven or eight years; but when, on +January 20, 1821, Viceroy Venadito did publish the royal confirmation of +the decree, the guardian of the college in Mexico ordered the president +of the California Missions to comply at once with its requirements. He +was to surrender all property, but to exact a full inventoried receipt, +and he was to notify the bishop that the missionaries were ready to +surrender their charges to their successors. In accordance with this +order, President Payeras notified Governor Sola of his readiness to give +up the Missions, and rejoiced in the opportunity it afforded his +co-workers to engage in new spiritual conquests among the heathen. But +this was a false alarm. The bishop responded that the decree had not +been enforced elsewhere, and as for him the California padres might +remain at their posts. Governor Sola said he had received no official +news of so important a change, but that when he did he "would act with +the circumspection and prudence which so delicate a subject demands." + +With Iturbide's imperial regency came a new trouble to California, +largely provoked by thoughts of the great wealth of the Missions. The +imperial decree creating the regency was not announced until the end of +1821, and practically all California acquiesced in it. But in the +meantime Agustin Fernandez de San Vicente had been sent as a special +commissioner to "learn the feelings of the Californians, to foment a +spirit of independence, to obtain an oath of allegiance, to raise the +new national flag," and in general to superintend the change of +government. He arrived in Monterey September 26, but found nothing to +alarm him, as nobody seemed to care much which way things went. Then +followed the "election" of a new governor, and the wire-pullers +announced that Luis Argueello was the "choice of the convention." + +In 1825 the Mexican republic may be said to have become fairly well +established. Iturbide was out of the way, and the politicians were +beginning to rule. A new "political chief" was now sent to California in +the person of Jose Maria Echeandia, who arrived in San Diego late in +October, 1825. While he and his superiors in Mexico were desirous of +bringing about secularization, the difficulties in the way seemed +insurmountable. The Missions were practically the backbone of the +country; without them all would crumble to pieces, and the most +fanatical opponent of the system could not fail to see that without the +padres it would immediately fall. As Clinch well puts it: "The converts +raised seven eighths of the farm produce;--the Missions had gathered two +hundred thousand bushels in a single harvest. All manufacturing in the +province--weaving, tanning, leather-work, flour-mills, soap-making--was +carried on exclusively by the pupils of the Franciscans. It was more +than doubtful whether they could be got to work under any other +management, and a sudden cessation of labor might ruin the whole +territory." + +Something must be done, so, after consultation with some of the more +advanced of the padres, the governor issued a proclamation July 25, +1826, announcing to the Indians that those who desired to leave the +Missions might do so, provided they had been Christians from childhood, +or for fifteen years, were married, or at least not minors, and had some +means of gaining a livelihood. The Indians must apply to the commandant +at the presidio, who, after obtaining from the padre a report, was to +issue a written permit entitling the neophyte and his family to go where +they chose, their names being erased from the Mission register. The +result of this might readily be foreseen. Few could take advantage of +it, and those that did soon came in contact with vultures of the +"superior race," who proceeded to devour them and their substance. + +Between July 29 and August 3, 1830, Echeandia had the California +_diputacion_ discuss his fuller plans, which they finally approved. +These provided for the gradual transformation of the Missions into +pueblos, beginning with those nearest the presidios and pueblos, of +which one or two were to be secularized within a year, and the rest as +rapidly as experience proved practicable. Each neophyte was to have a +share in the Mission lands and other property. The padres might remain +as curates, or establish a new line of Missions among the hitherto +unreached Indians as they should choose. Though this plan was passed, it +was not intended that it should be carried out until approved by the +general government of Mexico. + +All this seems singular to us now, reading three quarters of a century +later, for, March 8, 1830, Manuel Victoria was appointed political chief +in Echeandia's stead; but as he did not reach San Diego until November +or December, and in the meantime a new element had been introduced into +the secularization question in the person of Jose Maria Padres, +Echeandia resolved upon a bold stroke. He delayed meeting Victoria, +lured him up to Santa Barbara, and kept him there under various +pretexts until he had had time to prepare and issue a decree. This was +dated January 6, 1831. It was a political trick, "wholly illegal, +uncalled for, and unwise." He decreed immediate secularization of all +the Missions, and the turning into towns of Carmel and San Gabriel. The +ayuntamiento of Monterey, in accordance with the decree, chose a +commissioner for each of the seven Missions of the district. These were +Juan B. Alvarado for San Luis Obispo, Jose Castro for San Miguel, +Antonio Castro for San Antonio, Tiburcio Castro for Soledad, Juan +Higuera for San Juan Bautista, Sebastian Rodriguez for Santa Cruz, and +Manuel Crespo for San Carlos. Castro and Alvarado were sent to San +Miguel and San Luis Obispo respectively, where they read the decree and +made speeches to the Indians; at San Miguel, Alvarado made a +spread-eagle speech from a cart and used all his eloquence to persuade +the Indians to adopt the plan of freemen. "Henceforth their trials were +to be over. No tyrannical priest could compel them to work. They were to +be citizens in a free and glorious republic, with none to molest or make +them afraid." Then he called for those who wished to enjoy these +blessings of freedom to come to the right, while those who were content +to remain under the hideous bondage of the Missions could go to the +left. Imagine his surprise and the chill his oratory received when all +but a small handful quickly went to the left, and those who at first +went to the right speedily joined the majority. At San Luis and San +Antonio the Indians also preferred "slavery." + +By this time Victoria began to see that he was being played with, so he +hurried to Monterey and demanded the immediate surrender of the office +to which he was entitled. One of his first acts was to nullify +Echeandia's decree, and to write to Mexico and explain fully that it was +undoubtedly owing to the influence of Padres, whom he well knew. But +before the end of the year Echeandia and his friends rose in rebellion, +deposed, and exiled Victoria. Owing to the struggles then going on in +Mexico, which culminated in Santa Anna's dictatorship, the revolt of +Echeandia was overlooked and Figueroa appointed governor in his stead. + +For a time Figueroa held back the tide of secularization, while Carlos +Carrillo, the Californian delegate to the Mexican Congress, was doing +all he could to keep the Missions and the Pious Fund intact. Figueroa +then issued a series of provisional regulations on gradual emancipation, +hoping to be relieved from further responsibility by the Mexican +government. + +This only came in the passage of an Act, August 17, 1833, decreeing full +secularization. The Act also provided for the colonization of both the +Californias, the expenses of this latter move to be borne by the +proceeds gained from the distribution of the Mission property. A shrewd +politician named Hijars was to be made governor of Upper California for +the purpose of carrying this law into effect. + +But now Figueroa seemed to regret his first action. Perhaps it was +jealousy that Hijars should have been appointed to his stead. He +bitterly opposed Hijars, refused to give up the governorship, and after +considerable "pulling and hauling," issued secularization orders of his +own, greatly at variance with those promulgated by the Mexican Cortes, +and proceeded to set them in operation. + +Ten Missions were fully secularized in 1834, and six others in the +following year. And now came the general scramble for Mission property. +Each succeeding governor, freed from too close supervision by the +general government in Mexico, which was passing through trials and +tribulations of its own, helped himself to as much as he could get. +Alvarado, from 1836 to 1842, plundered on every hand, and Pio Pico was +not much better. When he became governor, there were few funds with +which to carry on the affairs of the country, and he prevailed upon the +assembly to pass a decree authorizing the renting or the sale of the +Mission property, reserving only the church, a curate's house, and a +building for a court-house. From the proceeds the expenses of conducting +the services of the church were to be provided, but there was no +disposition made as to what should be done to secure the funds for that +purpose. Under this decree the final acts of spoliation were +consummated. + +The padres took the matter in accordance with their individual +temperaments. Some were hopefully cheerful, and did the best they could +for their Indian charges; others were sulky and sullen, and retired to +the chambers allotted to them, coming forth only when necessary duty +called; still others were belligerent, and fought everything and +everybody, and, it must be confessed, generally with just cause. + +As for the Indians, the effect was exactly as all thoughtful men had +foreseen. Those who received property seldom made good use of it, and +soon lost it. Cattle were neglected, tools unused, for there were none +to compel their care or use. Consequently it was easy to convert them +into money, which was soon gambled or drunk away. Rapidly they sank from +worse to worse, until now only a few scattered settlements remain of the +once vast number, thirty thousand or more, that were reasonably happy +and prosperous under the rule of the padres. + + + +CHAPTER IX + +SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA + +The story of the founding of San Diego by Serra has already been given. +It was the beginning of the realization of his fondest hopes. The early +troubles with the Indians delayed conversions, but in 1773 Serra +reported that some headway had been made. He gives the original name of +the place as _Cosoy, in_ 32 deg. 43', built on a hill two gunshots from the +shore, and facing the entrance to the port at Point Guijarros. The +missionaries left in charge were Padres Fernando Parron and +Francisco Gomez. + +About the middle of July ill health compelled Parron to retire to Lower +California and Gomez to Mexico, and Padres Luis Jayme and Francisco +Dumetz took their places. + +San Diego was in danger of being abandoned for lack of provisions, for +in 1772 Padre Crespi, who was at San Carlos, writes that on the +thirtieth of March of that year "the mail reached us with the lamentable +news that this Mission of San Diego was to be abandoned for lack of +victuals." Serra then sent him with "twenty-two mules, and with them +fifteen half-loads of flour" for their succor. Padres Dumetz and Cambon +had gone out to hunt for food to the Lower California Missions. The same +scarcity was noticed at San Gabriel, and the padres, "for a considerable +time, already, had been using the supplies which were on hand to found +the Mission of San Buenaventura; and though they have _drawn their belts +tight_ there remains to them provisions only for two months and a half." + +Fortunately help came; so the work continued. + +The region of San Diego was well peopled. At the time of the founding +there were eleven rancherias within a radius of ten leagues. They must +have been of a different type from most of the Indians of the coast, +for, from the first, as the old Spanish chronicler reports, they were +insolent, arrogant, and thievish. They lived on grass seeds, fish, +and rabbits. + +In 1774, the separation of the Mission from the presidio was decided +upon, in order to remove the neophytes from the evil influences of the +soldiers. The site chosen was six miles up the valley (named _Nipaguay_ +by the Indians), and so well did all work together that by the end of +the year a dwelling, a storehouse, a smithy built of adobes, and a +wooden church eighteen by fifty-seven feet, and roofed with tiles, were +completed. Already the work of the padres had accomplished much. +Seventy-six neophytes rejoiced their religious hearts, and the herds had +increased to 40 cattle, 64 sheep, 55 goats, 19 hogs, 2 jacks, 2 burros, +17 mares, 3 foals, 9 horses, 22 mules,--233 animals in all. + +The presidio remained at Cosoy (now old San Diego), and four thousand +adobes that had been made for the Mission buildings were turned over to +the military. A rude stockade was erected, with two bronze cannon, one +mounted towards the harbor, the other towards the Indian rancheria. + +The experiments in grain raising at first were not successful. The seed +was sown in the river bottom and the crop was destroyed by the +unexpected rising of the river. The following year it was sown so far +from water that it died from drought. In the fall of 1775 all seemed to +be bright with hope. New buildings had been erected, a well dug, and +more land made ready for sowing. The Indians were showing greater +willingness to submit themselves to the priests, when a conflict +occurred that revealed to the padres what they might have to contend +with in their future efforts towards the Christianizing of the natives. +The day before the feast of St. Francis (October 4, 1775), Padres Jayme +and Fuster were made happy by being required to baptize sixty new +converts. Yet a few days later they were saddened by the fact that two +of these newly baptized fled from the Mission and escaped to the +mountains, there to stir up enmity and revolt. For nearly a month they +moved about, fanning the fires of hatred against the "long gowns," until +on the night of November 4 (1775) nearly eight hundred naked savages, +after dusk, stealthily advanced and surrounded the Mission, where the +inmates slept unguarded, so certain were they of their security. Part of +the force went on to the presidio, where, in the absence of the +commander, the laxity of discipline was such that no sentinel was +on guard. + +An hour after midnight the whole of the Mission was surrounded. The +quarters of the Christianized Indians were invaded, and they were +threatened with instantaneous death if they gave the alarm. The church +was broken into, and all the vestments and sacred vessels stolen. Then +the buildings were fired. Not until then did the inmates know of their +danger. Imagine their horror, to wake up and find the building on fire +and themselves surrounded by what, in their dazed condition, seemed +countless hordes of savages, all howling, yelling, brandishing +war-clubs, firing their arrows,--the scene made doubly fearful by the +red glare of the flames. + +In the guard-house were four soldiers,--the whole of the Mission +garrison; in the house the two priests, Jayme and Fuster, two little +boys, and three men (a blacksmith and two carpenters). Father Fuster, +the two boys, and the blacksmith sought to reach the guard-house, but +the latter was slain on the way. The Indians broke into the room where +the carpenters were, and one of them was so cruelly wounded that he died +the next day. + +Father Jayme, with the shining light of martyrdom in his eyes, and the +fierce joy of fearlessness in his heart, not only refused to seek +shelter, but deliberately walked towards the howling band, lifting his +hands in blessing with his usual salutation: "Love God, my children!" +Scarcely were the words uttered when the wild band fell upon him, +shrieking and crying, tearing off his habit, thrusting him rudely along, +hurting him with stones, sticks, and battle-axe, until at the edge of +the creek his now naked body was bruised until life was extinct, and +then the corpse filled with arrows. + +Three soldiers and the carpenter, with Father Fuster and two boys +loading the guns for them, fought off the invaders from a near-by +kitchen, and at dawn the attacking force gathered up their dead and +wounded and retired to the mountains. + +No sooner were they gone than the neophytes came rushing up to see if +any were left alive. Their delight at finding Father Fuster was +immediately changed into sadness as others brought in the awfully +mutilated and desecrated body of Father Jayme. Not until then did Father +Fuster know that his companion was dead, and deep was the mourning of +his inmost soul as he performed the last offices for his dear companion. + +Strange to say, so careless was the garrison that not until a messenger +reached it from Father Fuster did they know of the attack. They had +placed no guards, posted no sentinels, and, indifferent in their +foolish scorn of the prowess and courage of the Indians, had slept +calmly, though they themselves might easily have been surprised, and the +whole garrison murdered while asleep. + +In the meantime letters were sent for aid to Rivera at Monterey, and +Anza, the latter known to be approaching from the Colorado River region; +and in suspense until they arrived, the little garrison and the +remaining priests passed the rest of the year. The two commanders met at +San Gabriel, and together marched to San Diego, where they arrived +January 11, 1776. It was not long before they quarreled. Anza was for +quick, decisive action; Rivera was for delay; so, when news arrived from +San Gabriel that the food supply was running short, Anza left in order +to carry out his original orders, which involved the founding of San +Francisco. Not long after his departure Carlos, the neophyte who had +been concerned in the insurrection, returned to San Diego, and, +doubtless acting under the suggestion of the padres, took refuge in the +temporary church at the presidio. + +An unseemly squabble now ensued between Rivera and Padre Lasuen, the +former violating the sanctuary of the church to arrest the Indian. +Lasuen, on the next feast day, refused to say mass until Rivera and his +violating officers had retired. + +All this interfered with resumption of work on the church; so Serra +himself went to San Diego, and, finding the ship "San Antonio" in the +harbor, made an arrangement with Captain Choquet to supply sailors to +do the building under his own direction. Rivera was then written to for +a guard, and he sent six soldiers. On August 22, 1777, the three padres, +Choquet with his mate and boatswain and twenty sailors, a company of +neophytes, and the six soldiers went to the old site and began work in +earnest, digging the foundations, making adobes, and collecting stones. +The plan was to build a wall for defense, and then erect the church and +other buildings inside. For fifteen days all went well. Then an Indian +went to Rivera with a story that hostile Indians were preparing arrows +for a new attack, and this so scared the gallant officer that he +withdrew his six men. Choquet had to leave with his men, as he dared not +take the responsibility of being away with so many men without the +consent of Rivera; and, to the padre's great sorrow, the work had +to cease. + +In March of 1778 Captain Carrillo was sent to chastise hostile Indians +at Pamo who had sent insolent messages to Captain Ortega. Carrillo +surprised the foe, killed two, burned others who took refuge in a hut, +while the others surrendered and were publicly flogged. The four chiefs, +Aachel, Aalcuirin, Aaran, and Taguagui, were captured, taken to San +Diego, and there shot, though the officer had no legal right to condemn +even an Indian to death without the approval of the governor. Ortega's +sentence reads: "Deeming it useful to the service of God, the King, and +the public weal, I sentence them to a violent death by two musket-shots +on the 11th at 9 A.M., the troops to be present at the execution under +arms also all the Christian rancherias subject to the San Diego Mission, +that they may be warned to act righteously." + +Ortega then instructed Padres Lasuen and Figuer to prepare the +condemned. "You will co-operate for the good of their souls in the +understanding that if they do not accept the salutary waters of baptism +they die on Saturday morning; and if they do--they die all the same!" +This was the first public execution in California. + +In 1780 the new church, built of adobe, strengthened and roofed with +pine timbers, ninety feet long and seventeen feet wide and high, was +completed. + +In 1782 fire destroyed the old presidio church. + +In 1783 Lasuen made an interesting report on the condition of San Diego. +At the Mission there were church, granary, storehouse, hospital, men's +house, shed for wood and oven, two houses for the padres, larder, +guest-room, and kitchen. These, with the soldiers' barracks, filled +three sides of a square of about one hundred and sixty feet, and on the +fourth side was an adobe wall, nearly ten feet high. There were seven +hundred and forty neophytes at that time under missionary care, though +Lasuen spoke most disparagingly of the location as a Mission site. + +In 1824 San Diego registered its largest population, being then +eighteen hundred and twenty-nine. + +When Spanish rule ended, and the Mexican empire and republic sent its +first governor, Echeandia, he decided to make San Diego his home; so for +the period of his governorship, though he doubtless lived at or near the +presidio, the Mission saw more or less of him. As is shown in the +chapter on Secularization, he was engaged in a thankless task when he +sought to change the Mission system, and there was no love lost between +the governor's house and the Mission. + +In 1833 Governor Figueroa visited San Diego Mission in person, in order +to exhort the neophytes to seize the advantages of citizenship which the +new secularization regulations were to give to them; but, though they +heard him patiently, and there and at San Luis Rey one hundred and sixty +families were found to be duly qualified for "freedom," only ten could +be found to accept it. + +On March 29, 1843, Governor Micheltorena issued a decree which restored +San Diego Mission temporalities to the management of the padre. He +explained in his prelude that the decree was owing to the fact that the +Mission establishments had been reduced to the mere space occupied by +the buildings and orchards, that the padres had no support but that of +charity, etc. Mofras gives the number of Indians in 1842 as five +hundred, but an official report of 1844 gives only one hundred. The +Mission retained the ranches of Santa Isabel and El Cajon until +1844-1845, and then, doubtless, they were sold or rented in accordance +with the plans of Pio Pico. + +To-day nothing but the _fachada_ of the church remains, and that has +recently been braced or it would have fallen. There are a few portions +of walls also, and a large part of the adobe wall around the garden +remains. The present owner of the orchard, in digging up some of the old +olive trees, has found a number of interesting relics, stirrups, a +gun-barrel, hollow iron cannon-balls, metates, etc. These are all +preserved and shown as "curios," together with beams from the church, +and the old olive-mill. + +By the side of the ruined church a newer and modern brick building now +stands. It destroys the picturesqueness of the old site, but it is +engaged in a good work. Father Ubach, the indefatigable parish priest of +San Diego, who died a few years ago, and who was possessed of the spirit +of the old padres, erected this building for the training of the Indian +children of the region. On one occasion I asked the children if they +knew any of the "songs of the old," the songs their Indian grandparents +used to sing; and to my delight, they sang two of the old chorals taught +their ancestors in the early Mission days by the padres. + +[Illustration: FACHADA OF THE RUINED MISSION OF SAN DIEGO] + +[Illustration: OLD MISSION OF SAN DIEGO AND SISTERS SCHOOL FOR INDIAN +CHILDREN] + +[Illustration: MAIN ENTRANCE ARCH AT MISSION SAN DIEGO.] + +[Illustration: THE TOWER AT MISSION SAN CARLOS BORROMEO] + + + +CHAPTER X + +SAN CARLOS BORROMEO + +A brief account of the founding of San Carlos at Monterey, June 3, 1770, +was given in an earlier chapter. What joy the discovery of the harbor +and founding of the Mission caused in Mexico and Spain can be understood +when it is remembered that for two centuries this thing had been +desired. In the Mexican city the bells of the Cathedral rang forth merry +peals as on special festival days, and a solemn mass of thanksgiving was +held, at which all the city officials and dignitaries were present. A +full account of the event was printed and distributed there and in +Spain, so that, for a time at least, California occupied a large share +of public attention. + +The result of the news of the founding of San Carlos was that all were +enthused for further extension of the Missions. The indefatigable Galvez +at once determined that five new Missions should be founded, and the +Guardian of the Franciscan College was asked for, and agreed to send, +ten more missionaries for the new establishments, as well as twenty for +the old and new Missions on the peninsula. + +At the end of the year 1773 Serra made his report to Mexico, and then +it was found that there were more converts at San Carlos than at any +other Mission. Three Spanish soldiers had married native women. + +A little later, as the mud roofs were not successful in keeping out the +winter rains, a new church was built, partly of rough and partly of +worked lumber, and roofed with tules. The lumber used was the pine and +cypress for which the region is still noted. + +There was little agriculture, only five fanegas of wheat being harvested +in 1772. Each Mission received eighteen head of horned cattle at its +founding, and San Carlos reported a healthy increase. + +In 1772 Serra left for Mexico, to lay matters from the missionary +standpoint before the new viceroy, Bucareli. He arrived in the city of +Mexico in February, 1773. With resistless energy and eloquence he +pleaded for the preservation of the shipyard of San Blas, the removal of +Fages, the correction of certain abuses that had arisen as the result of +Fages's actions, and for further funds, soldiers, etc., to prosecute the +work of founding more Missions. In all the main points his mission was +successful. Captain Rivera y Moncada, with whose march from the +peninsula we are already familiar, was appointed governor; and at the +same time that he received his instructions, August 17, 1773, Captain +Juan Bautista de Anza was authorized to attempt the overland journey +from Sonora to Monterey. + +As we have already seen, this trip was successful and led to the second, +in which the colonists and soldiers for the new Mission of San Francisco +were brought. + +In 1776 Serra's heart was joyed with the thought that he was to wear a +martyr's crown, for there was a rumor of an Indian uprising at San +Carlos; but the presence of troops sent over from Monterey seemed to end +the trouble. + +In 1779 a maritime event of importance occurred. The padres at San +Carlos and the soldiers at Monterey saw a galleon come into the bay, +which proved to be the "San Jose," from Manila. It should have remained +awhile, but contrary winds arose, and it sailed away for San Lucas. But +the king later issued orders that all Manila galleons must call at +Monterey, under a penalty of four thousand dollars, unless prevented by +stress of weather. + +In 1784 Serra died and was buried at San Carlos. + +For a short time after Serra's death, the duties of padre presidente +fell upon Palou; but in February, 1785, the college of San Fernando +elected Lasuen to the office, and thereafter he resided mainly at +San Carlos. + +September 14, 1786, the eminent French navigator, Jean Francois Galaup +de la Perouse, with two vessels, appeared at Monterey, and the Frenchman +in the account of his trip gives us a vivid picture of his reception at +the Mission of San Carlos. + +A few years later Vancouver, the English navigator, also visited San +Francisco, Santa Clara, and San Carlos. He was hospitably entertained by +Lasuen, but when he came again, he was not received so warmly, doubtless +owing to the fearfulness of the Spaniards as to England's intentions. + +When Pico issued his decrees in 1845, San Carlos was regarded as a +pueblo, or abandoned Mission, Padre Real residing at Monterey and +holding services only occasionally. The little property that remained +was to be sold at auction for the payment of debts and the support of +worship, but there is no record of property, debts, or sale. The glory +of San Carlos was departed. + +For many years no one cared for the building, and it was left entirely +to the mercy of the vandal and relic hunter. In 1852 the tile roof fell +in, and all the tiles, save about a thousand, were either then broken, +or afterwards stolen. The rains and storms beating in soon brought +enough sand to form a lodgment for seeds, and ere long a dense growth of +grass and weeds covered the dust of California's great apostle. + +In _Glimpses of California_ by H.H., Mr. Sandham, the artist, has a +picture which well illustrates the original spring of the roof and curve +of the walls. There were three buttresses, _from which_ sprang the roof +arches. The curves of the walls were made by increasing the thickness +at the top, as can be seen from the window spaces on each side, which +still remain in their original condition. The building is about one +hundred and fifty feet long by thirty feet wide. + +In 1868 Rev. Angelo D. Cassanova became the pastor of the parish church +at Monterey, and though Serra's home Mission was then a complete mass of +ruins, he determined upon its preservation, at least from further +demolition. The first step was to clear away the debris that had +accumulated since its abandonment, and then to locate the graves of the +missionaries. On July 3, 1882, after due notice in the San Francisco +papers, over four hundred people assembled at San Carlos, the stone slab +was removed, and the bodies duly identified. + +The discovery of the bodies of Serra, Crespi, Lopez, and Lasuen aroused +some sentiment and interest in Father Cassanova's plan of restoration; +and sufficient aid came to enable him properly to restore and roof the +building. On August 28, 1884, the rededication took place, and the +building was left as it is found to-day. + +The old pulpit still remains. It is reached by steps from the sacristy +through a doorway in the main side wall. It is a small and unpretentious +structure of wood, with wooden sounding-board above. It rests upon a +solid stone pedestal, cut into appropriate shaft and mouldings. The door +is of solid oak, substantially built. + +In the sacristy is a double lavatory of solid sandstone, hewn and +arranged for flowing water. It consists of two basins, one above the +other, the latter one well recessed. The lower basin is structurally +curved in front, and the whole piece is of good and artistic +workmanship. + +In the neighborhood of San Carlos there are enough residents to make up +a small congregation, and it is the desire of Father Mestris, the +present priest at Monterey, to establish a parish there, have a resident +minister, and thus restore the old Mission to its original purpose. + + + +CHAPTER XI + +THE PRESIDIO CHURCH AT MONTEREY + +Before leaving San Carlos it will be well to explain the facts in regard +to the Mission church at Monterey. Many errors have been perpetuated +about this church. There is little doubt but that originally the Mission +was established here, and the first church built on this site. But as I +have elsewhere related, Padre Serra found it unwise to have the Indians +and the soldiers too near together. + +In the establishment of the Missions, the presidios were founded to be a +means of protection to the padres in their work of civilizing and +Christianizing the natives. These presidios were at San Diego, Monterey, +San Francisco, and Santa Barbara. Each was supposed to have its own +church or chapel, and the original intention was that each should +likewise have its own resident priest. For purposes of economy, however, +this was not done, and the Mission padres were called upon for this +service, though it was often a source of disagreement between the +military and the missionaries. While the Monterey church that occupied +the site of the present structure may, in the first instance, have been +used by Serra for the Mission, it was later used as the church for the +soldiers, and thus became the presidio chapel. I have been unable to +learn when it was built but about fifty years ago Governor Pacheco +donated the funds for its enlargement. The original building was +extended back a number of feet, and an addition made, which makes the +church of cruciform shape, the original building being the long arm of +the cross. The walls are built of sandstone rudely quarried at the rear +of the church. It is now the parish church of Monterey. + +Here are a large number of interesting relics and memorials of Serra and +the early Mission days. The chief of these is a reliquary case, made by +an Indian at San Carlos to hold certain valuable relics which Serra +highly prized. Some of these are bones from the Catacombs, and an Agnus +Dei of wax. Serra himself wrote the list of contents on a slip of paper, +which is still intact on the back of the case. This reliquary used to be +carried in procession by Serra on each fourth of November, and is now +used by Father Mestris in like ceremonials. + +[Illustration: PRESIDIO CHURCH AND PRIEST'S RESIDENCE, MONTEREY, CALIF.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN CARLOS.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.] + +[Illustration: PRESIDIO CHURCH, MONTEREY.] + +In the altar space or sanctuary are five chairs, undoubtedly brought to +California by one of the Philippine galleons from one of those islands, +or from China. The bodies are of teak, ebony, or ironwood, with seats of +marble, and with a disk of marble in the back. + +In the sacristy is the safe in which Serra used to keep the sacred +vessels, as well as the important papers connected with his office. It +is an interesting object, sheeted with iron, wrapped around with iron +bands and covered all over with bosses. It is about three feet wide and +four feet high. In the drawers close by are several of the copes, +stoles, maniples, and other vestments which were once used by Serra at +the old Mission. + + + +CHAPTER XII + +SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA + +The third Mission of the series was founded in honor of San Antonio de +Padua, July 14, 1771, by Serra, accompanied by Padres Pieras and Sitjar. +One solitary Indian heard the dedicatory mass, but Serra's enthusiasm +knew no bounds. He was assured that this "first fruit of the wilderness" +would go forth and bring many of his companions to the priests. +Immediately after the mass he hastened to the Indian, lavished much +attention on him, and gave him gifts. That same day many other Indians +came and clearly indicated a desire to stay with such pleasant company. +They brought pine-nuts and acorns, and the padres gave them in exchange +strings of glass beads of various colors. + +At once buildings were begun, in which work the Indians engaged with +energy, and soon church and dwellings, surrounded by a palisade, were +completed. From the first the Indians manifested confidence in the +padres, and the fifteen days that Padre Serra remained were days of +intense joy and gladness at seeing the readiness of natives to associate +with him and his brother priests. Without delay they began to learn the +language of the Indians, and when they had made sufficient progress they +devoted much time to catechising them. In two years 158 natives were +baptized and enrolled, and instead of relying upon the missionaries for +food, they brought in large quantities of acorns, pine-nuts, squirrels, +and rabbits. The Mission being located in the heart of the mountains, +where pine and oak trees grew luxuriantly, the pine-nut and acorn were +abundant. Before the end of 1773 the church and dwellings were all +built, of adobe, and three soldiers, who had married native women, were +living in separate houses. + +In August of 1774 occurred the first trouble. The gentile Indians, +angered at the progress of the Mission and the gathering in of so many +of their people, attacked the Mission and wounded an Indian about to be +baptized. When the news reached Rivera at Monterey, he sent a squad of +soldiers, who captured the culprits, gave them a flogging, and +imprisoned them. Later they were flogged again, and, after a few days in +the stocks, they were released. + +In 1779 an alcalde and regidore were chosen from the natives to assist +in the administration of justice. In 1800 the report shows that the +neophyte population was 1118, with 767 baptisms and 656 deaths. The +cattle and horses had decreased from 2232 of the last report to 2217, +but small stock had slightly increased. In 1787 the church was regarded +as the best in California, though it was much improved later, for in +1797 it is stated that it was of adobes with a tiled roof. In 1793 the +large adobe block, eighty varas long and one vara wide, was constructed +for friars' houses, church and storehouse, and it was doubtless this +church that was tiled four years later. + +In 1805 it gained its highest population, there being 1296 Indians under +its control. The lands of the Mission were found to be barren, +necessitating frequent changes in cultivated fields and stock ranges. + +In 1808 the venerable Buenaventura Sitjar, one of the founders of the +Mission, and who had toiled there continuously for thirty-seven years, +passed to his reward, and was buried in sight of the hills he had loved +so long. The following year, or in 1810, work was begun on a newer and +larger church of adobes, and this is doubtless the building whose ruins +now remain. Though we have no record of its dedication, there is no +question but that it took place prior to 1820, and in 1830 references +are made to its arched corridors, etc., built of brick. Robinson, who +visited it in this year, says the whole Mission is built of brick, but +in this he is in error. The _fachada_ is of brick, but the main part of +the building is of adobe. Robinson speaks thus of the Mission and its +friar: "Padre Pedro Cabot, the present missionary director, I found to +be a fine, noble-looking man, whose manner and whole deportment would +have led one to suppose he had been bred in the courts of Europe, +rather than in the cloister. Everything was in the most perfect order: +the Indians cleanly and well dressed, the apartments tidy, the +workshops, granaries, and storehouses comfortable and in good keeping." + +[Illustration: RUINS Of MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.] + +[Illustration: DUTTON HOTEL, JOLON. On the old stage route between San +Francisco and Los Angeles, near Mission San Antonio de Padua.] + +[Illustration: RUINED CORRIDORS AT SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.] + +In 1834 Cabot retired to give place to Padre Jesus Maria Vasquez del +Mercado, one of the newly arrived Franciscans from Zacatecas. In this +year the neophyte population had dwindled to 567, and five years later +Visitador Hartwell found only 270 living at the Mission and its +adjoining ranches. It is possible, however, that there were fully as +many more living at a distance of whom he gained no knowledge, as the +official report for 1840 gives 500 neophytes. + +Manuel Crespo was the comisionado for secularization in 1835, and he and +Padre Mercado had no happy times together. Mercado made it so unpleasant +that six other administrators were appointed in order to please him, but +it was a vain attempt. As a consequence, the Indians felt the +disturbances and discord, and became discontented and unmanageable. + +In 1843, according to Governor Micheltorena's order of March 29, the +temporal control of the Mission was restored to the padre. But, though +the order was a kindly one, and relieved the padre from the interference +of officious, meddling, inefficient, and dishonest "administrators," it +was too late to effect any real service. + +As far as I can learn, Pico's plan did not affect San Antonio, and it +was not one of those sold by him in 1845-1846. In 1848 Padre Doroteo +Ambris was in charge as curate. For thirty years he remained here, true +to his calling, an entirely different kind of man from the quarrelsome, +arrogant, drinking, and gambling Mercado. He finally died at San +Antonio, and was buried in the Mission he guarded so well. + +In 1904 the California Historic Landmarks League (Inc.) undertook the +preservation of San Antonio, but little has yet been accomplished. Much +more should speedily be done, if the walls are to be kept from falling. + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +SAN GABRIEL, ARCANGEL + +We have already seen that San Gabriel, the fourth Mission, was founded +September 8, 1771. The natives gave cheerful assistance in bringing +timber, erecting the wooden buildings, covering them with tules, and +constructing the stockade enclosure which surrounded them. They also +brought offerings of acorns and pine-nuts. In a few days so many of them +crowded into camp that Padre Somero went to San Diego for an addition to +the guard, and returned with two extra men. It was not long before the +soldiers got into trouble, owing to their treatment of the Indian women, +and an Indian attack, as before related, took place. A few days later, +Fages appeared on the scene from San Diego with sixteen soldiers and two +missionaries, who were destined as guard and priests for the new Mission +of San Buenaventura. But the difficulty with the Indians led Fages to +postpone the founding of the new Mission. The offending soldier was +hurried off to Monterey to get him out of the way of further trouble. +The padres did their best to correct the evil impression the soldiers +had created, and, strange to say, the first child brought for baptism +was the son of the chief who had been killed in the dispute with +the soldiers. + +But the San Gabriel soldiers were not to be controlled. They were +insolent to the aged priests, who were in ill-health; they abused the +Indians so far as to pursue them to their rancherias "for the fun of the +thing;" and there they had additional "sport" by lassoing the women and +killing such men as interfered with their lusts. No wonder Serra's heart +was heavy when he heard the news, and that he attributed the small +number of baptisms--only seventy-three in two years--to the wickedness +of the men who should have aided instead of hindering the work. + +In his first report to Mexico, Serra tells of the Indian population +around San Gabriel. He says it is larger than at any other Mission, +though, unfortunately, of several different tribes who are at war with +one another; and the tribes nearest to the sea will not allow others to +fish, so that they are often in great want of food. Of the prospects for +agriculture he is most enthusiastic. The location is a well-watered +plain, with plenty of water and natural facilities for irrigation; and +though the first year's crop was drowned out, the second produced one +hundred and thirty fanegas of maize and seven fanegas of beans. The +buildings erected are of the same general character as those already +described at San Carlos, though somewhat smaller. + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.] + +[Illustration: REAR OF CHURCH, MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.] + +[Illustration: RUINS OF THE ARCHES, MISSION SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL.] + +When Captain Anza reached California from Sonora, by way of the +Colorado, on his first trip in 1774, accompanied by Padre Garces, he +stayed for awhile to recuperate at San Gabriel; and when he came the +second time, with the colonists for the new presidio of San Francisco, +San Gabriel was their first real stopping-place after that long, weary, +and arduous journey across the sandy deserts of Arizona and California. +Here Anza met Rivera, who had arrived the day before from Monterey. It +will be remembered that just at that time the news came of the Indian +uprising at San Diego; so, leaving his main force and the immigrants to +recuperate, he and seventeen of his soldiers, with Padre Font, started +with Rivera for the south. This was in January, 1776. He and Rivera did +not agree as to the best methods to be followed in dealing with the +troublesome Indians; so, when advices reached him from San Gabriel that +provisions were giving out, he decided to allow Rivera to follow his own +plans, but that he would wait no longer. When he arrived at San Gabriel, +February 12, he found that three of his muleteers, a servant, and a +soldier belonging to the Mission had deserted, taking with them +twenty-five horses and a quantity of Mission property. His ensign, +Moraga, was sent after the deserters; but, as he did not return as soon +as was expected, Anza started with his band of colonists for the future +San Francisco, where they duly arrived, as is recorded in the San +Francisco chapter. + +In 1777-1778 the Indians were exceedingly troublesome, and on one +occasion came in large force, armed, to avenge some outrage the soldiers +had perpetrated. The padres met them with a shining image of Our Lady, +when, immediately, they were subdued, and knelt weeping at the feet of +the priests. + +In October, 1785, trouble was caused by a woman tempting (so they said) +the neophytes and gentiles to attack the Mission and kill the padres. +The plot was discovered, and the corporal in command captured some +twenty of the leaders and quelled the uprising without bloodshed. Four +of the ringleaders were imprisoned, the others whipped with fifteen or +twenty lashes each, and released. The woman was sentenced to perpetual +exile, and possibly shipped off to one of the peninsula Missions. + +In 1810 the settlers at Los Angeles complained to the governor that the +San Gabriel padres had dammed up the river at Cahuenga, thus cutting off +their water supply; and they also stated that the padres refused to +attend to the spiritual wants of their sick. The padres offered to +remove the dam if the settlers were injured thereby, and also claimed +that they were always glad to attend to the sick when their own pressing +duties allowed. + +On January 14, 1811, Padre Francisco Dumetz, one of Serra's original +compadres, died at San Gabriel. At this time, and since 1806, Padre +Jose Maria Zalvidea, that strict martinet of padres, was in charge, and +he brought the Mission up to its highest state of efficiency. He it was +who began the erection of the stone church that now remains, and the +whole precinct, during his rule, rang with the busy hammer, clatter, +chatter, and movement of a large number of active workers. + +It was doubtless owing to the earthquake of December 8, 1812, which +occurred at sunrise, that a new church was built. The main altar was +overthrown, several of the figures broken, the steeple toppled over and +crashed to the ground, and the sacristy walls were badly cracked. The +padres' house as well as all the other buildings suffered. + +One of the adjuncts to San Gabriel was _El Molino Viejo_,--the old mill. +Indeed there were _two_ old mills, the first one, however, built in +Padre Zalvidea's time, in 1810 to 1812, being the one that now remains. +It is about two miles from the Mission. It had to be abandoned on +account of faulty location. Being built on the hillside, its west main +wall was the wall of the deep funnel-shaped cisterns which furnished the +water head. This made the interior damp. Then, too, the chamber in which +the water-well revolved was so low that the powerful head of water +striking the horizontal wheel splashed all over the walls and worked up +through the shaft holes to the mill stones and thus wet the flour. This +necessitated the constant presence of Indian women to carry away the +meal to dry storerooms at the Mission where it was bolted by a hand +process of their own devising. On this account the mill was abandoned, +and for several years the whole of the meal for the Mission was ground +on the old-style metates. + +The region adjacent to the mill was once largely inhabited by Indians, +for the foreman of the mill ranch declares that he has hauled from the +adjacent bluff as many stone pestles and mortars, metates and grinders +as would load a four-horse wagon. + +It should not be forgotten that originally the mill was roofed with red +tiles made by the Indians at the Mission; but these have entirely +disappeared. + +It was the habit of Padre Zalvidea to send certain of his most trusted +neophytes over to the islands of San Clemente and Catalina with a "bolt" +or two of woven serge, made at the Mission San Gabriel, to exchange with +the island Indians for their soapstone cooking vessels,--mortars, etc. +These traders embarked from a point where Redondo now is, and started +always at midnight. + +In 1819 the Indians of the Guachama rancho, called San Bernardino, +petitioned for the introduction of agriculture and stock raising, and +this was practically the beginning of that _asistencia_, as will be +recorded in the chapter on the various chapels. A chapel was also much +needed at Puente, where Zalvidea had six hundred Indians at work +in 1816. + +In 1822 San Gabriel was fearfully alarmed at the rumor that one hundred +and fifty Indians were bearing down upon that Mission from the Colorado +River region. It transpired that it was an Opata with despatches, and +that the company had no hostile intent. But Captain Portilla met them +and sent them back, not a little disconcerted by their inhospitable +reception. + +Of the wild, political chaos that occurred in California after Mexico +became independent of Spain, San Gabriel felt occasional waves. When the +people of San Diego and the southern part of the State rebelled against +Governor Victoria, and the latter confident chief came to arrange +matters, a battle took place near Los Angeles, in which he was severely +wounded. His friends bore him to San Gabriel, and, though he had +entirely defeated his foes, so cleverly did some one work upon his fears +that he made a formal surrender, December 6, 1831. On the ninth the +leader of the rebels, the former Governor Echeandia, had a conference +with him at San Gabriel, where he pledged himself to return to Mexico +without giving further trouble; and on the twentieth he left, stopping +for awhile at San Luis Rey with Padre Peyri. It was at this time the +venerable and worthy Peyri decided to leave California, and he therefore +accompanied the deposed governor to San Diego, from which port they +sailed January 17, 1832. + +After secularization San Gabriel was one of the Missions that +slaughtered a large number of her cattle for the hides and tallow. Pio +Pico states that he had the contract at San Gabriel, employing ten +vaqueros and thirty Indians, and that he thus killed over five thousand +head. Robinson says that the rascally contractors secretly appropriated +two hides for every one they turned over to the Mission. + +In 1843, March 29, Micheltorena's order, restoring San Gabriel to the +padres, was carried out, and in 1844 the official church report states +that nothing is left but its vineyards in a sad condition, and three +hundred neophytes. The final inventory made by the comisionados under +Pio Pico is missing, so that we do not know at what the Mission was +valued; but June 8, 1846, he sold the whole property to Reid and Workman +in payment for past services to the government. When attacked for his +participation in what evidently seemed the fraudulent transfer of the +Mission, Pico replies that the sale "did not go through." The United +States officers, in August of the same year, dispossessed the +"purchasers," and the courts finally decreed the sale invalid. + +There are a few portions of the old cactus hedge still remaining, +planted by Padre Zalvidea. Several hundreds of acres of vineyard and +garden were thus enclosed for purposes of protection from Indians and +roaming bands of horses and cattle. The fruit of the prickly pear was a +prized article of diet by the Indians, so that the hedge was of benefit +in two ways,--protection and food. + +On the altar are several of the old statues, and there are some quaint +pictures upon the walls. + +In the baptistry is a font of hammered copper, probably made either at +San Gabriel or San Fernando. There are several other interesting +vessels. At the rear of the church are the remains of five brick +structures, where the soap-making and tallow-rendering of the Mission +was conducted. Five others were removed a few years ago to make way for +the public road. Undoubtedly there were other buildings for the women +and male neophytes as well as the workshops. + +The San Gabriel belfry is well known in picture, song, and story. Yet +the fanciful legends about the casting of the bells give way to stern +fact when they are examined. Upon the first bell is the inscription: +"Ave Maria Santisima. S. Francisco. De Paula Rvelas, me fecit." The +second: "Cast by G.H. Holbrook, Medway, Mass., 1828." The third: "Ave +Maria, Sn Jvan Nepomvseno, Rvelas me fecit, A.D., '95." The fourth: +"Fecit Benitvs a Regibvs, Ano D. 1830, Sn. Frano." + +In the year 1886 a number of needed repairs were made; the windows were +enlarged, and a new ceiling put in, the latter a most incongruous +piece of work. + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +SAN LUIS OBISPO DE TOLOSA + +Founded, as we have seen, by Serra himself, September I, 1772, by the +end of 1773 the Mission of San Luis Obispo could report only twelve +converts. Serra left the day after the founding, leaving Padre Cavalier +in charge, with two Indians from Lower California, four soldiers and +their corporal. Their only provisions were a few hundred pounds of flour +and wheat, and a barrel of brown sugar. But the Indians were kind, in +remembrance of Fages's goodness in shooting the bears, and brought them +venison and seeds frequently, so they "managed to subsist" until +provisions came. + +Padre Cavalier built a neat chapel of logs and apartments for the +missionaries, and the soldiers soon erected their own barracks. While +the Indians were friendly, they did not seem to be particularly +attracted to the Mission, as they had more and better food than the +padre, and the only thing he had that they particularly desired was +cloth. There was no rancheria in the vicinity, but they were much +interested in the growth of the corn and beans sown by the padre, and +which, being on good and well-watered land, yielded abundantly. + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN GABRIEL ARCANGEL.] + +[Illustration: SAN LUIS OBISPO BEFORE RESTORATION.] + +[Illustration: RUINED MISSION OF SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO. Showing campanile +and protected arched corridors.] + +[Illustration: THE RESTORED MISSION OF SAN LUIS OBISPO.] + +In 1776 certain gentiles, who were hostile to some Indians that were +sheltered by the padres, attacked the Mission by discharging burning +arrows upon the tule roof of the buildings, and everything was +destroyed, save the church and the granary. Rivera came at once, +captured two of the ringleaders, and sent them for punishment to the +Monterey presidio. The success of the gentiles led them to repeat their +attacks by setting fire to the Mission twice during the next ten years, +and it was these calamities that led one of the San Luis padres to +attempt the making of roof tiles. Being successful, it was not long +before all the Missions were so roofed. + +In 1794 certain of the neophytes of San Luis and La Purisima conspired +with some gentiles to incite the Indians at San Luis to revolt, but the +arrest and deportation of fifteen or twenty of the ringleaders to +Monterey, to hard labor at the presidio, put a stop to the revolt. + +Padres Lasuen and Tapis both served here as missionaries, and in 1798 +Luis Antonio Martinez, one of the best known of the padres, began his +long term of service at San Luis. In 1794 the Mission reached its +highest population of 946 souls. It had 6500 head of cattle and horses, +6150 sheep. In 1798 it raised 4100 bushels of wheat, and in this same +year a water-power mill was erected and set in motion. San Luis was +also favored by the presence of a smith, a miller and a carpenter of +the artisan instructors, sent by the king in 1794. Looms were erected, +and cotton brought up from San Blas was woven. A new church of adobes, +with a tile roof, was completed in 1793, and that same year a portico +was added to its front. + +In 1830 Padre Martinez was banished to Madrid, and at this time the +buildings at San Luis were already falling into decay, as the padre, +with far-seeing eye, was assured that the politicians had nothing but +evil in store for them. Consequently, he did not keep up things as he +otherwise would have done. He was an outspoken, frank, fearless man, and +this undoubtedly led to his being chosen as the example necessary to +restrain the other padres from too great freedom of speech and manner. + +In 1834 San Luis had 264 neophytes, though after secularization the +number was gradually reduced until, in 1840, there were but 170 left. +The order of secularization was put into effect in 1835 by Manuel Jimeno +Casarin. The inventory of the property in 1836 showed $70,000. In 1839 +it was $60,000. In 1840 all the horses were stolen by "New Mexican +traders," one report alone telling of the driving away of 1200 head. The +officers at Los Angeles went in pursuit of the thieves and one party +reported that it came in full sight of the foe retiring deliberately +with the stolen animals, but, as there were as many Americans as +Indians in the band, they deemed it imprudent to risk a conflict. + +In December of 1846, when Fremont was marching south to co-operate with +Stockton against the Southern Californians, San Luis was thought to +harbor an armed force of hostiles. Accordingly Fremont surrounded it one +dark, rainy night, and took it by sudden assault. The fears were +unfounded, for only women, children, and non-combatants were found. + +The Book of Confirmations at San Luis has its introductory pages written +by Serra. There is also a "Nota" opposite page three, and a full-page +note in the back in his clear, vigorous and distinctive hand. + +There are three bells at San Luis Obispo. The largest is to the right, +the smallest in the center. On the largest bell is the following +inscription: "Me fecit ano di 1818 Manvel Vargas, Lima. Mision de Sn +Luis Obispo De La Nueba California." This latter is a circumferential +panel about midway between the top and bottom of the bell. On the middle +bell we read the same inscription, while there is none on the third. +This latter was cast in San Francisco, from two old bells which +were broken. + +From a painting the old San Luis Obispo church is seen to have been +raised up on a stone and cement foundation. The corridor was without the +arches that are elsewhere one of the distinctive features, but plain +round columns, with a square base and topped with a plain square +moulding, gave support to the roof beams, on which the usual red-tiled +roof was placed. + +The _fachada_ of the church retreats some fifteen or twenty feet from +the front line of the corridors. The monastery has been "restored," even +as has the church, out of all resemblance to its own honest original +self. The adobe walls are covered with painted wood, and the tiles have +given way to shingles, just like any other modern and commonplace house. +The building faces the southeast. The altar end is at the northwest. To +the southwest are the remains of a building of boulders, brick, and +cement, exactly of the same style as the asistencia building of Santa +Margarita. It seems as if it might have been built by the same hands. +Possibly in the earlier days Santa Margarita was a _vista_ of San Luis, +rather than of San Miguel, though it is generally believed that it was +under the jurisdiction of the latter. + + + +CHAPTER XV + +SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS + +The story of Bucareli's determination to found a presidio at San +Francisco, and Anza's march with the colonists for it from Sonora, has +already been recounted. When Serra and Galvez were making their original +plans for the establishment of the three first Missions of Alta +California, Serra expressed his disappointment that St. Francis was +neglected by asking: "And for our founder St. Francis there is no +Mission?" To which Galvez replied: "If St. Francis desires a Mission, +let him show us his harbor and he shall have one." It therefore seemed +providential that when Portola, Pages, and Crespi, in 1769, saw the Bay +of Monterey they did not recognize it, and were thus led on further +north, where the great Bay of San Francisco was soon afterwards +discovered and reasonably well surveyed. + +Palou eventually established the Mission October 9, 1776. None of the +Indians were present to witness the ceremony, as they had fled, the +preceding month, from the attacks of certain of their enemies. When they +returned in December they brought trouble with them. They stole all in +their reach; one party discharged arrows at the corporal of the guard; +another insulted a soldier's wife; and an attempt was made to kill the +San Carlos neophyte who had been brought here. The officers shut up one +of these hostiles, whereat a party of his comrades rushed to the rescue, +fired their arrows at the Mission, and were only driven back when the +soldiers arrived and fired their muskets in the air. Next day the +sergeant went out to make arrests and another struggle ensued, in which +one was killed and one wounded. All now sued for peace, which, with +sundry floggings, was granted. For three months they now kept away from +the Mission. + +In 1777 they began to return, and on October 4, Padre Serra, on his +first visit, was able to say mass in the presence of seventeen adult +native converts. Then, passing over to the presidio on October 10, as he +stood gazing on the waters flowing out to the setting sun through the +purple walls of the Golden Gate, he exclaimed with a heart too full of +thanksgiving to be longer restrained: "Thanks be to God that now our +father St. Francis with the Holy Cross of the Procession of Missions, +has reached the last limit of the Californian continent. To go farther +he must have boats." + +In 1782, April 25, the corner-stone of a new church was laid at San +Francisco. Three padres were present, together with the Mission guard +and a body of troops from the presidio. In the Mission records it says: +"There was enclosed in the cavity of said corner-stone the image of our +Holy Father St. Francis, some relics in the form of bones of St. Pius +and other holy martyrs, five medals of various saints, and a goodly +portion of silver coin." + +In 1785 Governor Pages complained to the viceroy, among other things, +that the presidio of San Francisco had been deprived of mass for three +years, notwithstanding the obligation of the friars to serve as +chaplains. Palou replied that the padres were under no obligation to +serve gratuitously, and that they were always ready to attend the +soldiers when their other duties allowed. + +In November, 1787, Captain Soler, who for a brief time acted as +temporary governor and inspector, suggested that the presidio of San +Francisco be abandoned and its company transferred to Santa Barbara. +Later, as I have shown elsewhere, a proposition was again made for the +abandonment of San Francisco; so it is apparent that Fate herself was +protecting it for its future great and wonderful history. + +In 1790 San Francisco reported 551 baptisms and 205 deaths, with a +present neophyte population of 438. Large stock had increased to 2000 +head and small to 1700. + +Three years later, on November 14, the celebrated English navigator, +George Vancouver, in his vessel "Discovery," sailed into San Francisco +Bay. His arrival caused quite a flutter of excitement both at the +presidio and Mission, where he was kindly entertained. The governor was +afraid of this elaborate hospitality to the hated and feared English, +and issued orders to the commandant providing for a more frigid +reception in the future, so, on Vancouver's second visit, he did not +find matters so agreeable, and grumbled accordingly. + +Tiles were made and put on the church roofs in 1795; more houses were +built for the neophytes, and all roofed with tiles. Half a league of +ditch was also dug around the potrero (pasture ground) and fields. + +In 1806 San Francisco was enlivened by the presence of the Russian +chamberlain, Rezanof, who had been on a special voyage around the world, +and was driven by scurvy and want of provisions to the California +settlements. He was accompanied by Dr. G.H. von Langsdorff. Langsdorff's +account of the visit and reception at several points in California is +interesting. He gives a full description of the Indians and their method +of life at the Mission; commends the zeal and self-sacrifice of the +padres; speaks of the ingenuity shown by the women in making baskets; +the system of allowing the cattle and horses to run wild, etc. Visiting +the Mission of San Jose by boat, he and his companions had quite an +adventurous time getting back, owing to the contrary winds. + +Rezanof's visit and its consequences have been made the subject of much +and romantic writing. Gertrude Atherton's novel, _Rezanof_, is devoted +to this episode in his life. The burden of the story is possibly true, +viz., that the Russians in their settlements to the north were suffering +for want of the food that California was producing in abundance. Yet, +owing to the absurd Spanish laws governing California, she was forbidden +to sell to or trade with any foreign peoples or powers. Rezanof, who was +well acquainted with this prohibitory law, determined upon trying to +overcome it for the immediate relief of his suffering compatriots. He +was fairly well received when he reached San Francisco, but he could +accomplish nothing in the way of trading or the sale of the needed +provisions. + +Now began a campaign of strategic waiting. To complicate (or simplify) +the situation, in the _bailes_ and _festas_ given to the distinguished +Russian, Rezanof danced and chatted with Concha Argueello, the daughter +of the stern old commandant of the post. + +Did they fall in love with each other, or did they not? Some writers say +one thing and some another. Anyhow, the girl thought she had received +the honest love of a noble man and responded with ardor and devotion. So +sure was she of his affection that she finally prevailed upon her father +(so we are told) to sell to Rezanof the provisions for which he had +come. The vessel, accordingly, was well and satisfactorily laden and +Rezanof sailed away. Being a Russian subject, he was not allowed to +marry the daughter of a foreigner without the consent of his sovereign, +and he was to hurry to Moscow and gain permission to return and wed the +lady of his choice. + +He never returned. Hence the accusation that he acted in bad faith to +her and her father. This charge seems to be unfounded, for it is known +that he left his vessel and started overland to reach Moscow earlier +than he could have done by ship, that he was taken seriously ill on the +trip and died. + +But Concha did not know of this. No one informed her of the death of her +lover, and her weary waiting for his return is what has given the touch +of keenest pathos to the romantic story. Bret Harte, in his inimitable +style, has put into exquisite verse, the story of the waiting of this +true-hearted Spanish maiden[4]: + +[4] From Poems by Bret Harte. By permission of the publishers, The +Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston, Mass. + + "He with grave provincial magnates long had held serene debate + On the Treaty of Alliance and the high affairs of state; + + He from grave provincial magnates oft had turned to talk apart + With the Comandante's daughter on the questions of the heart, + + Until points of gravest import yielded slowly one by one, + And by Love was consummated what Diplomacy begun; + + Till beside the deep embrasures, where the brazen cannon are, + He received the twofold contract for approval of the Czar; + + Till beside the brazen cannon the betrothed bade adieu, + And from sallyport and gateway north the Russian eagles flew. + + Long beside the deep embrasures, where the brazen cannon are, + Did they wait the promised bridegroom and the answer of the Czar. + + Day by day ... + + Week by week ... + + So each year the seasons shifted,--wet and warm and drear and dry; + Half a year of clouds and flowers, half a year of dust and sky. + + Still it brought no ship nor message,--brought no tidings, ill or + meet, + For the statesmanlike Commander, for the daughter fair and sweet. + + Yet she heard the varying message, voiceless to all ears beside: + 'He will come,' the flowers whispered; 'Come no more,' the dry hills + sighed. + + Then the grim Commander, pacing where the brazen cannon are, + Comforted the maid with proverbs, wisdom gathered from afar; + + * * * * * + + So with proverbs and caresses, half in faith and half in doubt, + Every day some hope was kindled, flickered, faded, and went out. + + * * * * * + + Forty years on wall and bastion swept the hollow idle breeze + Since the Russian eagle fluttered from the California seas; + + Forty years on wall and bastion wrought its slow but sure decay, + And St. George's cross was lifted in the port of Monterey; + + And the Citadel was lighted, and the hall was gaily drest, + All to honor Sir George Simpson, famous traveler and guest. + + * * * * * + + The formal speeches ended, and amidst the laugh and wine, + Some one spoke of Concha's lover,--heedless of the warning sign. + + Quickly then cried Sir George Simpson: 'Speak no ill + of him, I pray! + He is dead. He died, poor fellow, forty years ago this + day.-- + + 'Died while speeding home to Russia, falling from a + fractious horse. + Left a sweetheart, too, they tell me. Married, I + suppose, of course! + + 'Lives she yet?' A deathlike silence fell on banquet, + guests, and hall, + And a trembling figure rising fixed the awestruck gaze + of all. + + Two black eyes in darkened orbits gleamed beneath the + nun's white hood; + Black serge hid the wasted figure, bowed and stricken + where it stood. + + 'Lives she yet?' Sir George repeated. All were hushed + as Concha drew + Closer yet her nun's attire. 'Senyor, pardon, she died, + too!'" + +In 1810 Moraga, the ensign at the presidio, was sent with seventeen men +to punish the gentiles of the region of the Carquines Strait, who for +several years had been harassing the neophytes at San Francisco, and +sixteen of whom they had killed. Moraga had a hard fight against a +hundred and twenty of them, and captured eighteen, whom he soon +released, "as they were all sure to die of their wounds." The survivors +retreated to their huts and made a desperate resistance, and were so +determined not to be captured that, when one hut was set on fire, its +inmates preferred to perish in the flames rather than to surrender. A +full report of this affair was sent to the King of Spain and as a result +he promoted Moraga and other officers, and increased the pay of some of +the soldiers. He also tendered the thanks of the nation to all the +participants. + +Runaway neophytes gave considerable trouble for several years, and in +1819 a force was sent from San Francisco to punish these recalcitrants +and their allies. A sharp fight took place near the site of the present +Stockton, in which 27 Indians were killed, 20 wounded, and 16 captured, +with 49 horses. + +The Mission report for 1821-1830 shows a decrease in neophyte population +from 1252 to 219, though this was largely caused by the sending of +neophytes to the newly founded Missions of San Rafael and San +Francisco Solano. + +San Francisco was secularized in 1834-1835, with Joaquin Estudillo as +comisionado. The valuation in 1835 was real estate and fixtures, +$25,800; church property, $17,800; available assets in excess of debts +(chiefly live-stock), $16,400, or a total of $60,000. If any property +was ever divided among the Indians, there is no record to show it. + +On June 5, 1845, Pio Pico's proclamation was made, requiring the +Indians of Dolores Mission to reunite and occupy it or it would be +declared abandoned and disposed of for the general good of the +department. A fraudulent title to the Mission was given, and antedated +February 10, 1845; but it was afterwards declared void, and the building +was duly returned to the custody of the archbishop, under whose +direction it still remains. + +After Commodore Sloat had taken possession of Monterey for the United +States, in 1846, it was merely the work of a day or so to get despatches +to Captain Montgomery, of the ship "Portsmouth," who was in San +Francisco bay and who immediately raised the stars and stripes, and thus +the city of the Golden Gate entered into American possession. While the +city was materially concerned in the events immediately following the +occupation, the Mission was already too nearly dead to participate. In +1846 the bishop succeeded in finding a curate for a short period, but +nothing in the records can be found as to the final disposition of the +property belonging to the ex-Mission. In the political caldron it had +totally disappeared. + +In the early days the Mission Indians were buried in the graveyard, then +the soldiers and settlers, Spanish and Mexican, and the priests, and, +later, the _Americanos_. But all is neglected and uncared for, except by +Nature, and, after all, perhaps it is better so. The kindly spirited +Earth Mother has given forth vines and myrtle and ivy and other plants +in profusion, that have hidden the old graveled walks and the broken +flags. Rose bushes grow untrimmed, untrained and frankly beautiful; +while pepper and cypress wave gracefully and poetically suggestive over +graves of high and low, historic and unknown. For here are names carved +on stone denoting that beneath lie buried those who helped make +California history. Just at the side entrance of the church is a stone +with this inscription to the first governor of California: "Aqui yacen +los restos del Capitan Don Luis Antonio Argueello, Primer Gobernador del +Alta California, Bajo el Gobierno Mejicano. Nacio en San Francisco el 21 +de Junio, 1774, y murio en el mismo lugar el 27 de Marzo, 1830." + +Farther along is a brown stone monument, erected by the members of the +famous fire company, to Casey, who was hung by the Vigilantes--Casey, +who shot James King of William. The monument, adorned with firemen's +helmets and bugles in stone, stands under the shadow of drooping pepper +sprays, and is inscribed: "Sacred to the memory of James P. Casey, who +Departed this life May 23, 1856, Aged 27 years. May God forgive my +Persecutors. Requiescat en pace." + +Poor, sad Dolores! How utterly lost it now looks! + +During the earthquake and fire of 1906, the new church by its side was +destroyed. But the old Indian-built structure was preserved and still +stands as a grand memorial of the past. + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO + +On the tragic events at San Diego that led to the delay in the founding +of San Juan Capistrano I have already fully dwelt. The Mission was +founded by Serra, November 1, 1776, and the adobe church recently +restored by the Landmarks Club is said to be the original church built +at that time. + +Troubles began here early, as at San Gabriel, owing to the immorality of +the guards with the Indian women, and in one disturbance three Indians +were killed and several wounded. In 1781 the padre feared another +uprising, owing to incitements of the Colorado River Indians, who came +here across the desert and sought to arouse the local Indians to revolt. + +[Illustration: FACHADA OF MISSION SAN FRANCISCO.] + +[Illustration: RUINS OF MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.] + +[Illustration: ARCHED CLOISTERS AT SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.] + +[Illustration: ARCHED CORRIDORS AT SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.] + +In 1787 Governor Fages reported that San Juan was in a thoroughly +prosperous condition; lands were fertile, ministers faithful and +zealous, and natives well disposed. In 1800 the number of neophytes was +1046, horses and cattle 8500, while it had the vast number of 17,000 +sheep. Crops were 6300 bushels, and in 1797 the presidios of Santa +Barbara and San Diego owed San Juan Mission over $6000 for supplies +furnished. In 1794 two large adobe granaries with tile roofs, and forty +houses for neophytes were built. In February, 1797, work was begun on +the church, the remains of which are now to be seen. It is in the form +of a Roman cross, ninety feet wide and a hundred and eighty feet long, +and was planned by Fray Gorgonio. It was probably the finest of all the +California Mission structures. Built of quarried stone, with arched roof +of the same material and a lofty tower adorning its _fachada_, it +justifies the remark that "it could not be duplicated to-day under +$100,000." + +The consecration of the beautiful new church took place, September 7, +1806. President Tapis was aided by padres from many Missions, and the +scene was made gorgeous and brilliant by the presence of Governor +Arrillaga and his staff, with many soldiers from San Diego and +Santa Barbara. + +The following day another mass was said and sermon preached, and on the +9th the bones of Padre Vicente Fuster were transferred to their final +resting-place within the altar of the new church. A solemn requiem mass +was chanted, thus adding to the solemnity of the occasion. + +The church itself originally had seven domes. Only two now remain. In +the earthquake of 1812, when the tower fell, one of the domes was +crushed, but the others remained fairly solid and intact until the +sixties of the last century, when, with a zeal that outran all +discretion, and that the fool-killer should have been permitted to +restrain, they were blown up with gunpowder by mistaken friends who +expected to rebuild the church with the same material, but never did so. + +This earthquake of 1812 was felt almost the whole length of the Mission +chain, and it did much damage. It occurred on Sunday morning December 8. +At San Juan a number of neophytes were at morning mass; the day had +opened with intense sultriness and heaviness; the air was hot and seemed +charged with electricity. Suddenly a shock was felt. All were alarmed, +but, devoted to his high office, the padre began again the solemn words, +when, suddenly, the second shock came and sent the great tower crashing +down upon one of the domes or vaults, and in a moment the whole mass of +masonry came down upon the congregation. Thirty-nine were buried in the +next two days, and four were taken out of the ruins later. The +officiating priest escaped, as by a miracle, through the sacristy. + +It was in 1814 that Padre Boscana, who had been serving at San Luis Rey, +came to reside at San Juan Capistrano, where he wrote the interesting +account of the Indians that is so often quoted. In 1812, its population +gained its greatest figure, 1361. + +In November, 1833, Figueroa secularized the Mission by organizing a +"provisional pueblo" of the Indians, and claiming that the padres +voluntarily gave up the temporalities. There is no record of any +inventory, and what became of the church property is not known. Lands +were apportioned to the Indians by Captain Portilla. The following year, +most probably, all this provisional work of Figueroa's was undone, and +the Mission was secularized in the ordinary way, but in 1838 the Indians +begged for the pueblo organization again, and freedom from overseers, +whether lay or clerical. In 1840 Padre Zalvidea was instructed to +emancipate them from Mission rule as speedily as possible. Janssens was +appointed majordomo, and he reported that he zealously worked for the +benefit of the Mission, repairing broken fences and ditches, bringing +back runaway neophytes, clothing them and caring for the stock. But +orders soon began to come in for the delivery of cattle and horses, +applications rapidly came in for grants of the Mission ranches, and +about the middle of June, 1841, the lands were divided among the +ex-neophytes, about 100 in number, and some forty whites. At the end of +July regulations were published for the foundation of the pueblo, and +Don Juan Bandini soon thereafter went to supervise the work. He remained +until March, 1842, in charge of the community property, and then left +about half a dozen white families and twenty or more ex-neophytes duly +organized as a pueblo. + +In 1843 San Juan was one of the Missions the temporalities of which were +to be restored to the Padres, provided they paid one-eighth of all +produce into the public treasury. In 1844 it was reported that San Juan +had no minister, and all its neophytes were scattered. In 1845 Pico's +decree was published, stating that it was to be considered a pueblo; the +church, curate's house and court-house should be reserved, and the rest +of the property sold at auction for the payment of debts and the support +of public worship. In December of that year the ex-Mission buildings and +gardens were sold to Forster and McKinley for $710, the former of whom +retained possession for many years. In 1846 the pueblo was reported as +possessing a population of 113 souls. + +Twenty years ago there used to be one of the best of the Mission +libraries at San Juan. The books were all in old-style leather, +sheepskin and parchment bindings, some of them tied with leathern +thongs, and a few having heavy homemade metal clasps. They were all in +Latin or Spanish, and were well known books of divinity. The first page +of the record of marriages was written and signed by Junipero Serra. + +[Illustration: CAMPANILE AND RUINS OF MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.] + +[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO CHAPEL.] + +[Illustration: INNER COURT AND RUINED ARCHES, MISSION SAN JUAN +CAPISTRANO.] + +[Illustration: BELLS OF MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.] + +There are still several interesting relics; among others, two +instruments, doubtless Indian-made, used during the Easter services. One +is a board studded with handle-like irons, which, when moved rapidly +from side to side, makes a hideous noise. Another is a three-cornered +box, on which are similar irons, and in this a loose stone is rattled In +the service called "las tinieblas,"--the utter darkness,--expressive of +the darkness after the crucifixion, when the church is absolutely +without light, the appalling effect of these noises, heightened by the +clanking of chains, is indescribable. In proof of the tireless industry +of the priests and Indians of their charge, there are to be found at San +Juan many ruins of the aqueducts, or flumes, some of brick, others of +wood, supported across ravines, which conveyed the water needed to +irrigate the eighty acres of orchard, vineyard, and garden that used to +be surrounded by an adobe wall. Reservoirs, cisterns, and zanjas of +brick, stone, and cement are seen here and there, and several remnants +of the masonry aqueducts are still found in the village. + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +SANTA CLARA DE ASIS + +Rivera delayed the founding of San Francisco and Santa Clara for reasons +of his own; and when, in September, 1776, he received a letter from +Viceroy Bucareli, in which were references clearly showing that it was +supposed by the writer that they were already established, he set to +work without further delay, and went with Padre Pena, as already +related. The Mission was duly founded January 12, 1777. A square of +seventy yards was set off and buildings at once begun. Cattle and other +Mission property were sent down from San Francisco and San Carlos, and +the guard returned. But it was not long before the Indians developed an +unholy love for contraband beef, and Moraga and his soldiers were sent +for to capture and punish the thieves. Three of them were killed, but +even then depredations occasionally continued. At the end of the year +there had been sixty-seven baptisms, including eight adults, and +twenty-five deaths. + +The present is the third site occupied by Santa Clara. The Mission was +originally established some three miles away, near Alviso, at the +headwaters of the San Francisco Bay, near the river Guadalupe, on a +site called by the Indians So-co-is-u-ka (laurel wood). It was probably +located there on account of its being the chief rendezvous of the +Indians, fishing being good, the river having an abundance of salmon +trout. The Mission remained there only a short time, as the waters rose +twice in 1779, and washed it out. Then the padres removed, in 1780-1782, +and built about 150 yards southwest of the present broad-gauge (Southern +Pacific) depot, where quite recently traces were found of the old adobe +walls. They remained at this spot, deeming the location good, until an +earthquake in 1812 gave them considerable trouble. A second earthquake +in 1818 so injured their buildings that they felt compelled to move to +the present site, which has been occupied ever since. The Mission Church +and other buildings were begun in 1818, and finally dedicated in 1822. +The site was called by the Indians _Gerguensun_--the Valley of the Oaks. + +On the 29th of November, 1777, the pueblo of San Jose was founded. The +padres protested at the time that it was too near the Mission of Santa +Clara, and for the next decade there was constant irritation, owing to +the encroachments of the white settlers upon the lands of the Indians. +Complaints were made and formally acted upon, and in July, 1801, the +boundaries were surveyed, as asked for by the padres, and landmarks +clearly marked and agreed upon so as to prevent future disputes. + +In 1800 Santa Clara was the banner Mission for population, having 1247. +Live-stock had increased to about 5000 head of each (cattle and horses), +and crops were good. + +In 1802, August 12, a grand high altar, which had been obtained in +Mexico, was consecrated with elaborate ceremonies. + +Padre Viader, the priest in charge, was a very muscular and athletic +man; and one night, in 1814, a young gentile giant, named Marcelo, and +two companions attacked him. In the rough and tumble fight which ensued +the padre came out ahead; and after giving the culprits a severe homily +on the sin of attacking a priest, they were pardoned, Marcelo becoming +one of his best and most faithful friends thereafter. Robinson says +Viader was "a good old man, whose heart and soul were in proportion to +his immense figure." + +In 1820 the neophyte population was 1357, stock 5024, horses 722, sheep +12,060. The maximum of population was reached in 1827, of 1464 souls. +After that it began rapidly to decline. The crops, too, were smaller +after 1820, without any apparent reason. + +In 1837 secularization was effected by Ramon Estrada. In 1839-1840 +reports show that two-thirds of the cattle and sheep had disappeared. +The downfall of the Mission was very rapid. The neophyte population in +1832 was 1125, in 1834 about 800, and at the end of the decade about +290, with 150 more scattered in the district. + +[Illustration: ONE OF THE DOORS, SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.] + +[Illustration: IN THE AMBULATORY AT SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SANTA CLARA IN 1849.] + +[Illustration: CHURCH OF SANTA CLARA. On the site of old Mission of +Santa Clara.] + +The total of baptisms from 1777 to 1874 is 8640, of deaths 6950. + +The old register of marriages records 3222 weddings from January 12, +1778, to August 15, 1863. + +In 1833 Padre Viader closed his missionary service of nearly forty years +in California by leaving the country, and Padre Francisco Garcia Diego, +the prefect of the Zacatecan friars, became his successor. Diego +afterwards became the first bishop of California. + +In July, 1839, a party called Yozcolos, doubtless after their leader, +attacked the neophytes guarding the Santa Clara wheat-fields, killing +one of them. The attackers were pursued, and their leader slain, and the +placing of his head on a pole seemed to act as a deterrent of further +acts for awhile. + +In December of the same year Prado Mesa made an expedition against +gentile thieves in the region of the Stanislaus River. He was surprised +by the foe, three of his men killed, and he and six others wounded, +besides losing a number of his weapons. This Indian success caused great +alarm, and a regular patrol was organized to operate between San Jose +and San Juan Missions for the protection of the ranches. This uprising +of the Indians was almost inevitable. Deprived of their maintenance at +the Missions, they were practically thrown on their own resources, and +in many cases this left them a prey to the evil leadership of desperate +men of their own class. + +Santa Clara was one of the Missions immediately affected by the decree +of Micheltorena, of March 29, 1843, requiring that the padres reassume +the management of the temporalities. They set to work to gather up what +fragments they could find, but the flocks and herds were "lent" where +they could not be recovered, and one flock of 4000 sheep--the padre says +6000--were taken by M.J. Vallejo, "legally, in aid of the government." + +Pio Pico's decree of June 5, 1845, affected Santa Clara. Andres Pico +made a valuation of the property at $16,173. There were then 130 +ex-neophytes, the live-stock had dwindled down to 430 cattle, 215 +horses, and 809 sheep. The padre found it necessary to write a sharp +letter to the alcalde of San Jose on the grog-shops of that pueblo, +which encouraged drinking among his Indians to such extent that they +were completely demoralized. + +March 19, 1851, the parish priest, who was a cultivated and learned +Jesuit, and who had prepared the way, succeeded in having the Santa +Clara College established in the old Mission buildings. On the 28th of +April, 1855, it was chartered with all the rights and privileges of a +university. In due time the college grew to large proportions, and it +was found imperative either to remove the old Mission structure +completely, or renovate it out of all recognition. This latter was done, +so that but little of the old church remains. + +In restoring it in 1861-1862 the nave was allowed to remain, but in +1885 it was found necessary to remove it. Its walls were five feet +thick. The adobe bricks were thrown out upon the plaza behind the cross. + +The present occupation of Santa Clara as a university as well as a +church necessitated the adaptation of the old cloisters to meet the +modern conditions. Therefore the casual visitor would scarcely notice +that the reception-room into which he is ushered is a part of the old +cloisters. The walls are about three feet thick, and are of adobe. In +the garden the beams of the cloister roofs are to be seen. + +The old Mission vineyard, where the grapes used to thrive, is now +converted into a garden. A number of the old olive trees still remain. +Of the three original bells of the Mission, two still call the faithful +to worship. One was broken and had to be recast in San Francisco. + +On the altar, there are angels with flambeaux in their hands, of wooden +carving. These are deemed the work of the Indians. There are also +several old statues of the saints, including San Joaquin, Santa Ana, San +Juan Capistrano, and Santa Colette. In the sodality chapel, also, there +are statues of San Francisco and San Antonio. The altar rail of the +restored Santa Clara church was made from the beams of the old Mission. +These were of redwood, secured from the Santa Cruz mountains, and, I +believe, are the earliest specimens of redwood used for lumber in +California The rich natural coloring and the beauty of the grain and +texture have improved with the years The old octagonal pulpit, though +not now used is restored and honored, standing upon a modern pedestal. + +Santa Clara was noted for the longevity of some of its Indians. One of +them, Gabriel, who died in 1891 or 1892 at the hospital in Salinas, +claimed he was a grandfather when Serra came in 1767. He must have been +over 150 years old when he died. Another, Inigo, was known to be 101 +years of age at his death. + +In a room in the college building is gathered together an interesting +collection of articles belonging to the old Mission. Here are the chairs +of the sanctuary, processional candlesticks, pictures, and the best +bound book in the State--an old choral. It rests on a stand at the end +of the room. The lids are of wood, covered with thick leather and bound +in very heavy bronze, with bosses half an inch high. Each corner also +has bronze protuberances, half an inch long, that stand out on the +bottom, or edge of the cover, so that they raise the whole book. The +volume is of heaviest vellum and is entirely hand-written in red and +black; and though a century or more has passed since it was written it +is clear and perfect, has 139 pages. The brothers of the college have +placed this inscription over it: "Ancient choral, whose wooden cover, +leather bound and covered in bronze, came, probably, originally from +Spain, and has age of some 500 years." + +In a case which extends across the room are ancient vestments, the key +of the old Mission, statuary brackets from the ancient altar, the altar +bell, crown of thorns from the Mission crucifix, altar card-frames, and +the rosary and crucifix that once belonged to Padre Magin Catala. + +Padre Catala, the good man of Santa Clara, is deemed by the leaders of +the Catholic Church in California to be worthy the honors and elevation +of sainthood, and proceedings are now in operation before the highest +Court of the Church in Rome to see whether he is entitled to these +posthumous honors. The Franciscan historian for California, Father +Zephyrin Englehardt, has written a book entitled _The Holy Man of Santa +Clara_, in which not only the life of Padre Catala is given, but the +whole of the procedure necessary to convince the Church tribunal of his +worth and sainthood. The matter is not yet (1913) settled. + +On the walls are some of the ancient paintings, one especially +noteworthy. It is of Christ multiplying the loaves and fishes (John vi. +II). While it is not a great work of art, the benignity and sweetness of +the Christ face redeem it from crudeness. With upraised right hand he is +blessing the loaves which rest in his left hand, while the boy with the +fishes kneels reverently at his feet. + +The University of Santa Clara is now rapidly erecting its new buildings, +in a modified form of Mission architecture, to meet its enlarging needs +The buildings, when completed, will present to the world a great +institution of learning--the oldest west of the Rocky Mountains--well +equipped in every department for the important labor in the education of +the Catholic youth of California and the west that it has undertaken. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +SAN BUENAVENTURA + +For thirteen years the heart of the venerable Serra was made sick by the +postponements in the founding of this Mission. The Viceroy de Croix had +ordered Governor Rivera "to recruit seventy-five soldiers for the +establishment of a presidio and three Missions in the channel of Santa +Barbara: one towards the north of the channel, which was to be dedicated +to the Immaculate Conception; one towards the south, dedicated to San +Buenaventura, and a third in the centre, dedicated to Santa Barbara." + +It was with intense delight that Serra received a call from Governor +Neve, who, in February, 1782, informed him that he was prepared to +proceed at once to the founding of the Missions of San Buenaventura and +Santa Barbara. Although busy training his neophytes, he determined to go +in person and perform the necessary ceremonies. Looking about for a +padre to accompany him, and all his own coadjutors being engaged, he +bethought him of Father Pedro Benito Cambon, a returned invalid +missionary from the Philippine Islands, who was recuperating at San +Diego. He accordingly wrote Padre Cambon, requesting him, if possible, +to meet him at San Gabriel. On his way to San Gabriel, Serra passed +through the Indian villages of the channel region, and could not refrain +from joyfully communicating the news to the Indians that, very speedily, +he would return to them, and establish Missions in their midst. + +In the evening of March 18, Serra reached Los Angeles, and next evening, +after walking to San Gabriel, weighed down with his many cares, and +weary with his long walk, he still preached an excellent sermon, it +being the feast of the patriarch St. Joseph. Father Cambon had arrived, +and after due consultation with him and the governor, the date for the +setting out of the expedition was fixed for Tuesday, March 26. The week +was spent in confirmation services and other religious work, and, on the +date named, after solemn mass, the party set forth. It was the most +imposing procession ever witnessed in California up to that time, and +called forth many gratified remarks from Serra. There were seventy +soldiers, with their captain, commander for the new presidio, ensign, +sergeant, and corporals. In full gubernatorial dignity followed Governor +Neve, with ten soldiers of the Monterey company, their wives and +families, servants and neophytes. + +[Illustration: SIDE ENTRANCE AT SAN BUENAVENTURA.] + +[Illustration: FACHADA OF MISSION SAN BUENAVENTURA.] + +[Illustration: STATUE OF SAN BUENAVENTURA. Now at Dominican Convent, +Mission San Jose.] + +[Illustration: RAWHIDE FASTENING OF MISSION BELL, AND WORM-EATEN BEAM.] + +At midnight they halted, and a special messenger overtook them with news +which led the governor to return at once to San Gabriel with his ten +soldiers. He ordered the procession to proceed, however, found the San +Buenaventura Mission, and there await his arrival. Serra accordingly +went forward, and on the twenty-ninth arrived at "Assumpta." Here, the +next day, on the feast of Easter, they pitched their tents, "erected a +large cross, and prepared an altar under a shade of evergreens," where +the venerable Serra, now soon to close his life-work, blessed the cross +and the place, solemnized mass, preached a sermon to the soldiers on the +Resurrection of Christ, and formally dedicated the Mission to God, and +placed it under the patronage of St. Joseph. + +In the earlier part of the last century the Mission began to grow +rapidly. Padres Francisco Dumetz and Vicente de Santa Maria, who had +been placed in charge of the Mission from the first, were gladdened by +many accessions, and the Mission flocks and herds also increased +rapidly. Indeed, we are told that "in 1802 San Buenaventura possessed +finer herds of cattle and richer fields of grain than any of her +contemporaries, and her gardens and orchards were visions of wealth +and beauty." + +On his second visit to the California coast, Vancouver, when anchored +off Santa Barbara, traded with Padre Santa Maria of San Buenaventura for +a flock of sheep and as many vegetables as twenty mules could carry. + +It is to Vancouver, on this voyage, that we owe the names of a number of +points on the California coast, as, for instance, Points Sal, Argueello +Felipe, Vicente, Dumetz, Fermin, and Lasuen. + +In 1795 there was a fight between the neophyte and gentile Indians, the +former killing two chiefs and taking captive several of the latter. The +leaders on both sides were punished, the neophyte Domingo even being +sentenced to work in chains. + +In 1806 the venerable Santa Maria, one of the Mission founders, died. +His remains were ultimately placed in the new church. + +In 1800 the largest population in its history was reached, with 1297 +souls. Cattle and horses prospered, and the crops were reported as among +the best in California. + +The earthquake of 1812-1813 did considerable damage at San Buenaventura. +Afraid lest the sea would swallow them up, the people fled to San +Joaquin y Santa Ana for three months, where a temporary _jacal_ church +was erected. The tower and a part of the _fachada_ had to be torn down +and rebuilt, and this was done by 1818, with a new chapel dedicated to +San Miguel in addition. + +That San Buenaventura was prosperous is shown by the fact that in June, +1820, the government owed it $27,385 for supplies, $6200 in stipends, +and $1585 for a cargo of hemp,--a total of $35,170, which, says +Bancroft, "there was not the slightest chance of it ever receiving." + +In 1823 the president and vice-prefect Senan, who had served as padre +at this Mission for twenty-five years, died August 24, and was buried by +the side of Santa Maria. After his death San Buenaventura began rapidly +to decline. + +In 1822 a neophyte killed his wife for adultery. It is interesting to +note that in presenting his case the fiscal said that as the culprit had +been a Christian only seven years, and was yet ignorant in matters of +domestic discipline, he asked for the penalty of five years in the chain +gang and then banishment. + +The baptisms for the whole period of the Mission's history, viz., for +1782-1834, are 3876. There is still preserved at the Mission the first +register, which was closed in 1809. At that time 2648 baptisms had been +administered. The padre presidente, Serra, wrote the heading for the +Index, and the contents themselves were written in a beautiful hand by +Padre Senan. There are four signatures which occur throughout in the +following order: Pedro Benito Cambon, Francisco Dumetz, Vicente de Sta +Maria, and Jose Senan. + +The largest population was 1330 in 1816. The largest number of cattle +was 23,400 in the same year. In 1814, 4652 horses; in 1816, +13,144 sheep. + +Micheltorena's decree in 1843 restored the temporalities of the Mission +to the padres. This was one of the two Missions, Santa Ines being the +other, that was able to provide a moderate subsistence out of the wreck +left by secularization. On the 5th of December, 1845, Pico rented San +Buenaventura to Jose Arnaz and Marcisco Botello for $1630 a year. There +are no statistics of the value of the property after 1842, though in +April of 1843 Padre Jimeno reports 2382 cattle, 529 horses, 2299 sheep, +220 mules and 18 asses, 1032 fruit trees and 11,907 vines. In November +of that same year the bishop appointed Presbyter, Resales, since which +time the Mission has been the regular parish church of the city. + +In 1893 the Mission church was renovated out of all its historic +association and value by Father Rubio, who had a good-natured but +fearfully destructive zeal for the "restoration" of the old Missions. +Almost everything has been modernized. The fine old pulpit, one of the +richest treasures of the Mission, was there several years ago; but when, +in 1904, I inquired of the then pastor where it was, I was curtly +informed that he neither knew nor cared. All the outbuildings have been +demolished and removed in order to make way for the modern spirit of +commercialism which in the last decade has struck the town. It is now an +ordinary church, with little but its history to redeem it from the look +of smug modernity which is the curse of the present age. + +Before leaving San Buenaventura it may be interesting to note that a few +years ago I was asked about two "wooden bells" which were said to have +been hung in the tower at this Mission. I deemed the question absurd, +but on one of my visits found one of these bells in a storeroom under +the altar, and another still hanging in the belfry. By whom, or why, +these dummy bells were made, I have not been able to discover. + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +SANTA BARBARA + +After the founding of San Buenaventura. Governor Neve arrived from San +Gabriel, inspected the new site, and expressed himself as pleased with +all that had been done. A few days later he, with Padre Serra, and a +number of soldiers and officers, started up the coast, and, selecting a +site known to the Indians after the name of their chief, _Yanonalit_, +established the presidio of Santa Barbara. Yanonalit was very friendly, +and as he had authority over thirteen rancherias he was able to help +matters along easily. This was April 21, 1782. + +When Serra came to the establishment of the presidio, he expected also +to found the Mission, and great was his disappointment. This undoubtedly +hastened his death, which occurred August 28, 1782. + +[Illustration: MISSION SANTA BARBARA.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SANTA BARBARA FROM THE HILLSIDE.] + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF MISSION SANTA BARBARA.] + +It was not until two years later that Neve's successor, Fages, +authorized Serra's successor, Lasuen, to proceed. Even then it was +feared that he would demand adherence to new conditions which were to +the effect that the padres should not have control over the temporal +affairs of the Indians; but, as the guardian of the college had +positively refused to send missionaries for the new establishments, +unless they were founded on the old lines, Fages tacitly agreed. On +December 4, therefore, the cross was raised on the site called +_Taynayan_ by the Indians and _Pedragoso_ by the Spaniards, and formal +possession taken, though the first mass was not said until Fages's +arrival on the 16th. Lasuen was assisted by Padres Antonio Paterna and +Cristobal Oramas. Father Zephyrin has written a very interesting account +of Santa Barbara Mission, some of which is as follows: + +"The work of erecting the necessary buildings began early in 1787. With +a number of Indians, who had first to be initiated into the mysteries of +house construction, Fathers Paterna and Oramas built a dwelling for +themselves together with a chapel. These were followed by a house for +the servants, who were male Indians, a granary, carpenter shop, and +quarters for girls and unmarried young women. + +"In succeeding years other structures arose on the rocky height as the +converts increased and industries were introduced. At the end of 1807 +the Indian village, which had sprung up just southwest of the main +building, consisted of 252 separate adobe dwellings harboring as many +Indian families. The present Mission building, with its fine corridor, +was completed about the close of the eighteenth century. The fountain in +front arose in 1808. It furnished the water for the great basin just +below, which served for the general laundry purposes of the Indian +village. The water was led through earthen pipes from the reservoir +north of the church, which to this day furnishes Santa Barbara with +water. It was built in 1806. To obtain the precious liquid from the +mountains, a very strong dam was built across 'Pedragoso' creek about +two miles back of the Mission. It is still in good condition. Then there +were various structures scattered far and near for the different trades, +since everything that was used in the way of clothing and food had to be +raised or manufactured at the Mission. + +"The chapel grew too small within a year from the time it was dedicated, +Sunday, May 21, 1787. It was therefore enlarged in 1788, but by the year +1792 this, also, proved too small. Converts were coming in rapidly. The +old structure was then taken down, and a magnificent edifice took its +place in 1793. Its size was 25 by 125 feet. There were three small +chapels on each side, like the two that are attached to the present +church. An earthquake, which occurred on Monday, December 21, 1812, +damaged this adobe building to such an extent that it had to be taken +down. On its site rose the splendid structure, which is still the +admiration of the traveler. Padre Antonio Ripoll superintended the work, +which continued through five years, from 1815 to 1820. It was dedicated +on the 10th of September, 1820. The walls, which are six feet thick, +consist of irregular sandstone blocks, and are further strengthened by +solid stone buttresses measuring nine by nine feet. The towers to a +height of thirty feet are a solid mass of stone and cement twenty feet +square. A narrow passage leads through one of these to the top, where +the old bells still call the faithful to service as of yore. Doubtless +the Santa Barbara Mission church is the most solid structure of its +kind in California. It is 165 feet long, forty feet wide and thirty feet +high on the outside. Like the monastery, the church is roofed with tiles +which were manufactured at the Mission by the Indians." + +The report for 1800 is full of interest. It recounts the activity in +building, tells of the death of Padre Paterna, who died in 1793, and was +followed by Estevan Tapis (afterwards padre presidente), and says that +1237 natives have been baptized, and that the Mission now owns 2492 +horses and cattle, and 5615 sheep. Sixty neophytes are engaged in +weaving and allied tasks; the carpenter of the presidio is engaged at a +dollar a day to teach the neophytes his trade; and a corporal is +teaching them tanning at $150 a year. + +In 1803 the population was the highest the Mission ever reached, with +1792. In May, 1808, a determined effort lasting nine days was made to +rid the region of ground squirrels, and about a thousand were killed. + +The earthquakes of 1812 alarmed the people and damaged the buildings at +Santa Barbara as elsewhere. The sea was much disturbed, and new springs +of asphaltum were formed, great cracks opened in the mountains, and the +population fled all buildings and lived in the open air. + +On the sixth of December, in the same year, the arrival of Bouchard, +"the pirate," gave them a new shock of terror. The padres had already +been warned to send all their valuables to Santa Ines, and the women +and children were to proceed thither on the first warning of an expected +attack. But Bouchard made no attack. He merely wanted to exchange +"prisoners." He played a pretty trick on the Santa Barbara comandante in +negotiating for such exchange, and then, when the hour of delivery came, +it was found he had but one prisoner,--a poor drunken wretch whom the +authorities would have been glad to get rid of at any price. + +In 1824 the Indian revolt, which is fully treated in the chapters on +Santa Ines and Purisima, reached Santa Barbara. While Padre Ripoll was +absent at the presidio, the neophytes armed themselves and worked +themselves into a frenzy. They claimed that they were in danger from the +Santa Ines rebels unless they joined the revolt, though they promised to +do no harm if only the soldiers were sent and kept away. Accordingly +Ripoll gave an order for the guard to withdraw, but the Indians insisted +that the soldiers leave their weapons. Two refused, whereupon they we're +savagely attacked and wounded. This so incensed Guerra that he marched +up from the presidio in full force, and a fight of several hours ensued, +the Indians shooting with guns and arrows from behind the pillars of the +corridors. Two Indians were killed and three wounded, and four of the +soldiers were wounded. When Guerra retired to the presidio, the Indians +stole all the clothing and other portable property they could carry +(carefully respecting everything, however, belonging to the church), and +fled to the hills. That same afternoon the troops returned and, despite +the padre's protest, sacked the Indians' houses and killed all the +stragglers they found, regardless of their guilt or innocence. The +Indians refused to return, and retreated further over the mountains to +the recesses of the Tulares. Here they were joined by escaped neophytes +from San Fernando and other Missions. The alarm spread to San +Buenaventura and San Gabriel, but few, if any, Indians ran away. In the +meantime the revolt was quelled at Santa Ines and Purisima, as +elsewhere recorded. + +On the strength of reports that he heard, Governor Argueello recalled the +Monterey troops; but this appeared to be a mistake, for, immediately, +Guerra of Santa Barbara sent eighty men over to San Emigdio, where, on +April 9 and 11, severe conflicts took place, with four Indians killed, +and wounded on both sides. A wind and dust storm arising, the troops +returned to Santa Barbara. + +In May the governor again took action, sending Captain Portilla with a +force of 130 men. The prefect Sarria and Padre Ripoll went along to make +as peaceable terms as possible, and a message which Sarria sent on ahead +doubtless led the insurgents to sue for peace. They said they were +heartily sorry for their actions and were anxious to return to Mission +life, but hesitated about laying down their arms for fear of summary +punishment. The gentiles still fomented trouble by working on the fears +of the neophytes, but owing to Argueello's granting a general pardon, +they were finally, in June, induced to return, and the revolt was at +an end. + +After these troubles, however, the Mission declined rapidly in +prosperity. Though the buildings under Padre Ripoll were in excellent +condition, and the manufacturing industries were well kept up, +everything else suffered. + +In 1817 a girls' school for whites was started at the presidio of Santa +Barbara, but nothing further is known of it. Several years later a +school was opened, and Diego Fernandez received $15 a month as its +teacher. But Governor Echeandia ordered that, as not a single scholar +attended, this expense be discontinued; yet he required the comandante +to compel parents to send their children to school. + +In 1833 Presidente Duran, discussing with Governor Figueroa the question +of secularization, deprecated too sudden action, and suggested a partial +and experimental change at some of the oldest Missions, Santa Barbara +among the number. + +When the decree from Mexico, came, however, this was one of the first +ten Missions to be affected thereby. Anastasio Carrillo was appointed +comisionado, and acted from September, 1833. His inventory in March, +1834, showed credits, $14,953; buildings, $22,936; furniture, tools, +goods in storehouse, vineyards, orchards, corrals, and animals, +$19,590; church, $16,000; sacristy, $1500; church ornaments, etc., +$4576; library, $152; ranches, $30,961; total, $113,960, with a debt to +be deducted of $1000. + +The statistics from 1786 to 1834, the whole period of the Mission's +history, show that there were 5679 baptisms, 1524 marriages, 4046 +deaths. The largest population was 1792 in 1803. The largest number of +cattle was 5200 in 1809, of sheep, 11,066 in 1804. + +Here, as elsewhere, the comisionados found serious fault with the pueblo +grog-shops. In 1837 Carrillo reports that he has broken up a place where +Manuel Gonzalez sold liquor to the Indians, and he calls upon the +comandante to suppress other places. In March, 1838, he complains that +the troops are killing the Mission cattle, but is told that General +Castro had authorized the officers to kill all the cattle needed without +asking permission. When the Visitador Hartwell was here in 1839 he found +Carrillo's successor Cota an unfit man, and so reported him. He finally +suspended him, and the Indians became more contented and industrious +under Padre Duran's supervision, though the latter refused to undertake +the temporal management of affairs. + +Micheltorena's decree of 1843 affected Santa Barbara, in that it was +ordered returned to the control of the padres; but in the following year +Padre Duran reported that it had the greatest difficulty in supporting +its 287 souls. Pico's decree in 1845 retained the principal building for +the bishop and padres; but all the rest and the orchards and lands were +to be rented, which was accordingly done December 5, to Nicholas A. Den +and Daniel Hill for $1200 per year, the property being valued at +$20,288. Padre Duran was growing old, and the Indians were becoming more +careless and improvident; so, when Pico wrote him to give up the Mission +lands and property to the renters, he did so willingly, though he stated +that the estate owed him $1000 for money he had advanced for the use of +the Indians. The Indians were to receive one third of the rental, but +there is no record of a cent of it ever getting into their hands. June +10, 1846, Pico sold the Mission to Richard S. Den for $7500, though the +lessees seem to have kept possession until about the end of 1848. The +land commission confirmed Den's title, though the evidences are that it +was annulled in later litigation. Padre Duran died here early in 1846, a +month after Bishop Diego. Padre Gonzalez Rubio still remained for almost +thirty years longer to become the last of the old missionaries. + +In 1853 a petition was presented to Rome, and Santa Barbara was erected +into a Hospice, as the beginning of an Apostolic College for the +education of Franciscan novitiates who are to go forth, wherever sent, +as missionaries. St. Anthony's College, the modern building near by, was +founded by the energy of Father Peter Wallischeck. It is for the +education of aspirants to the Franciscan Order. There are now +thirty-five students. + +[Illustration: DOOR TO CEMETERY, SANTA BARBARA.] + +[Illustration: MISSION BELL AT SANTA BARBARA.] + +[Illustration: THE SACRISTY WALL, GARDEN AND TOWERS, MISSION SANTA +BARBARA.] + +[Illustration: FACHADA OF MISSION LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION, NEAR LOMPOC, +CALIF] + +Five of the early missionaries and three of later date are buried in the +crypt, under the floor of the sanctuary, in front of the high altar; and +Bishop Diego rests under the floor at the right-hand side of the altar. + +The small cemetery, which is walled in and entered from the church, is +said to contain the bodies of 4000 Indians, as well as a number of +whites. In the northeast corner is the vault in which are buried the +members of the Franciscan community. + +In the bell tower are two old bells made in 1818, as is evidenced by +their inscriptions, which read alike, as follows: "Manvel Vargas me +fecit ano d. 1818 Mision de Santa Barbara De la nveba +California"--"Manuel Vargas made me Anno Domini 1818. Mission of Santa +Barbara of New California." The first bell is fastened to its beam with +rawhide thongs; the second, with a framework of iron. Higher up is a +modern bell which is rung (the old ones being tolled only). + +The Mission buildings surround the garden, into which no woman, save a +reigning queen or the wife of the President of the United States, is +allowed to enter. An exception was made in the case of the Princess +Louise when her husband was the Governor-general of Canada. The wife of +President Harrison also has entered. The garden, with its fine Italian +cypress, planted by Bishop Diego about 1842, and its hundred varieties +of semi-tropical flowers, in the center of which is a fountain where +goldfish play, affords a delightful place of study, quiet, and +meditation for the Franciscans. + +It is well that the visitor should know that this old Mission, never so +abandoned and abused as the others, has been kept up in late years +entirely by the funds given to the Franciscan missionaries, who are now +its custodians, and it has no other income. + +The Mission Library contains a large number of valuable old books +gathered from the other Missions at the time of secularization. There +are also kept here a large number of the old records from which Bancroft +gained much of his Mission intelligence, and which, recently, have been +carefully restudied by Father Zephyrin, the California historian of the +Franciscan Order. Father Zephyrin is a devoted student, and many results +of his zeal and kindness are placed before my readers in this volume, +owing to his generosity. His completed history of the Missions and +Missionaries of California is a monumental work. + + + +CHAPTER XX + +LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION + +Although the date of the founding of this Mission is given as December +8, 1787,--for that was the day on which Presidente Lasuen raised the +cross, blessed the site, celebrated mass, and preached a dedicatory +sermon,--there was no work done for several months, owing to the coming +of the rainy season. In the middle of March, 1788, Sergeant Cota of +Santa Barbara, with a band of laborers and an escort, went up to prepare +the necessary buildings; and early in April Lasuen, accompanied by +Padres Vicente Fuster and Jose Arroita, followed. As _early_ as August +the roll showed an acquisition of seventy-nine neophytes. During the +first decade nearly a thousand baptisms were recorded, and the Mission +flourished in all departments. Large crops of wheat and grain were +raised, and live-stock increased rapidly. In 1804 the population +numbered 1522, the highest on record during its history, and in 1810 the +number of live-stock reported was over 20,000; but the unusual +prosperity that attended this Mission during its earlier years was +interrupted by a series of exceptional misfortunes. + +The first church erected was crude and unstable, and fell rapidly into +decay. Scarcely a dozen years had passed, when it became necessary to +build a new one. This was constructed of adobe and roofed with tile. It +was completed in 1802, but although well built, it was totally destroyed +by an earthquake, as we shall see later on. + +The Indians of this section were remarkably intelligent as well as +diligent, and during the first years of the Mission there were over +fifty rancherias in the district. According to the report of Padre +Payeras in 1810, they were docile and industrious. This indefatigable +worker, with the assistance of interpreters, prepared a Catechism and +Manual of Confession in the native language, which he found very useful +in imparting religious instruction and in uprooting the prevailing +idolatry. In a little over twenty years the entire population for many +leagues had been baptized, and were numbered among the converts. + +This period of peace and prosperity was followed by sudden disaster. The +earthquake of 1812, already noted as the most severe ever known on the +Pacific Coast, brought devastation to Purisima. The morning of December +21 found padres and Indians rejoicing in the possession of the fruits of +their labor of years,--a fine church, many Mission buildings, and a +hundred houses built of adobe and occupied by the natives. A few hours +afterward little was left that was fit for even temporary use. The first +vibration, lasting four minutes, damaged the walls of the church. The +second shock, a half-hour later, caused the total collapse of nearly all +the buildings. Padre Payeras reported that "the earth opened in several +places, emitting water and black sand." This calamity was quickly +followed by torrents of rain, and the ensuing floods added to the +distress of the homeless inhabitants. The remains of this old Mission of +1802 are still to be seen near Lompoc, and on the hillside above is a +deep scar made by the earthquake, this doubtless being the crack +described by Padre Payeras. But nothing could daunt the courage or +quench the zeal of the missionaries. Rude huts were erected for +immediate needs, and, having selected a new and more advantageous +site--five or six miles away--across the river, they obtained the +necessary permission from the presidente, and at once commenced the +construction of a new church, and all the buildings needed for carrying +on the Mission. Water for irrigation and domestic purposes was brought +in cement pipes, made and laid under the direction of the padres, from +Salsperde Creek, three miles away. But other misfortunes were in store +for these unlucky people. During a drought in the winter of 1816-1817, +hundreds of sheep perished for lack of feed, and in 1818 nearly all the +neophytes' houses were destroyed by fire. + +In 1823 the Mission lost one of its best friends in the death of Padre +Payeras. Had he lived another year it is quite possible his skill in +adjusting difficulties might have warded off the outbreak that occurred +among the Indians,--the famous revolt of 1824. + +This revolt, which also affected Santa Ines and Santa Barbara (see their +respective chapters), had serious consequences at Purisima. After the +attack at Santa Ines the rebels fled to Purisima. In the meantime the +neophytes at this latter Mission, hearing of the uprising, had seized +the buildings. The guard consisted of Corporal Tapia with four or five +men. He bravely defended the padres and the soldiers' families through +the night, but surrendered when his powder gave out. One woman was +wounded. The rebels then sent Padres Ordaz and Tapia to Santa Ines to +warn Sergeant Carrillo not to come or the families would be killed. +Before an answer was received, the soldiers and their families were +permitted to retire to Santa Ines, while Padre Rodriguez remained, the +Indians being kindly disposed towards him. Four white men were killed in +the fight, and seven Indians. + +Left now to themselves, and knowing that they were sure to be attacked +ere long, the Indians began to prepare for defense. They erected +palisades, cut loopholes in the walls of the church and other buildings, +and mounted one or two rusty old cannon. For nearly a month they were +not molested. This was the end of February. + +In the meantime the governor was getting a force ready at Monterey to +send to unite with one under Guerra from Santa Barbara. On March 16 +they were to have met, but owing to some mischance, the northern force +had to make the attack alone. Cavalry skirmishers were sent right and +left to cut off retreat, and the rest of the force began to fire on the +adobe walls from muskets and a four-pounder. The four hundred neophytes +within responded with yells of defiance and cannon, swivel-guns, and +muskets, as well as a cloud of arrows. In their inexperienced hands, +however, little damage was done with the cannon. By and by the Indians +attempted to fly, but were prevented by the cavalry. Now realizing their +defeat, they begged Padre Rodriguez to intercede for them, which he did. +In two hours and a half the conflict was over, three Spaniards being +wounded, one fatally, while there were sixteen Indians killed and a +large number wounded. As the governor had delegated authority to the +officers to summarily dispense justice, they condemned seven of the +Indians to death for the murder of the white men in the first conflict. +They were shot before the end of the month. Four of the revolt +ringleaders were sentenced to ten years of labor at the presidio and +then perpetual exile, while eight others were condemned to the presidio +for eight years. + +There was dissatisfaction expressed with the penalties,--on the side of +the padres by Ripoll of Santa Barbara, who claimed that a general pardon +had been promised; and on the part of the governor, who thought his +officers had been too lenient. + +An increased guard was left at Purisima after this affair, and it took +some little time before the Indians completely settled down again, as it +was known that the Santa Barbara Indians were still in revolt. + +During all the years when contending with the destructive forces of +earthquake, fire, flood, and battle, to say nothing of those foes of +agriculture,--drought, frost, grasshoppers, and squirrels,--the material +results of native labor were notable. In 1819 they produced about +100,000 pounds of tallow. In 1821 the crops of wheat, barley, and corn +amounted to nearly 8000 bushels. Between 1822 and 1827 they furnished +the presidio with supplies valued at $12,921. The population, however, +gradually decreased until about 400 were left at the time of +secularization in 1835. The Purisima estate at this time was estimated +by the appraisers to be worth about $60,000. The inventory included a +library valued at $655 and five bells worth $1000. With the exception of +the church property this estate, or what remained of it, was sold in +1845 for $1110. Under the management of administrators appointed by the +government, the Mission property rapidly disappeared, lands were sold, +live-stock killed and scattered, and only the fragments of wreckage +remained to be turned over to the jurisdiction of the padres according +to the decree of Micheltorena in 1843. The following year an epidemic +of smallpox caused the death of the greater proportion of Indians still +living at Purisima, and the final act in the history of the once +flourishing Mission was reached In 1845, when, by order of Governor +Pico, the ruined estate was sold to John Temple for the paltry amount +stated above. + +In regard to its present ownership and condition, a gentleman interested +writes: + + "The abandoned Mission is on ground which now belongs to the + Union Oil Company of California. The building itself has been + desecrated and damaged by the public ever since its + abandonment. Its visitors apparently did not scruple to + deface it in every possible way, and what could not be stolen + was ruthlessly destroyed. It apparently was a pleasure to + them to pry the massive roof-beams loose, in order to enjoy + the crash occasioned by the breaking of the valuable tile. + + "On top of this the late series of earthquakes in that + section threw down many of the brick pillars, and twisted the + remainder so badly that the front of the building is a + veritable wreck. During these earthquakes, which lasted + several weeks, tile which could not be replaced for a + thousand dollars were displaced and broken. To save the + balance of the tile, as well as to avoid possible accidents + to visitors, the secretary of the Oil Company had the + remaining tile removed from the roof and piled up near the + building for safety." + + + +CHAPTER XXI + +SANTA CRUZ + +Lasuen found matters far easier for him in the founding of Missions than +did Serra in his later years. The viceroy agreed to pay $1000 each for +the expenses of the Missions of Santa Cruz and La Soledad, and $200 each +for the traveling expenses of the four missionaries needed. April 1, +1790, the guardian sent provisions and tools for Santa Cruz to the value +of $1021. Lasuen delayed the founding for awhile, however, as the +needful church ornaments were not at hand; but as the viceroy promised +them and ordered him to go ahead by borrowing the needed articles from +the other Missions, Lasuen proceeded to the founding, as I have +already related. + +At the end of the year 1791 the neophytes numbered 84. In 1796 the +highest mark was reached with 523. In 1800 there were but 492. Up to the +end of that year there had been 949 baptisms, 271 couples married, and +477 buried. There were 2354 head of large stock, and 2083 small. In 1792 +the agricultural products were about 650 bushels, as against 4300 +in 1800. + +[Illustration: RUINS OF MISSION LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SANTA CRUZ.] + +[Illustration] + +[Illustration: RUINED WALLS OF MISSION LA SOLEDAD.] + +The corner-stone of the church was laid February 27, 1793, and was +completed and formally dedicated May 10, 1794, by Padre Pena from +Santa Clara, aided by five other priests. Ensign Sal was present as +godfather, and duly received the keys. The neophytes, servants, and +troops looked on at the ceremonies with unusual interest, and the next +day filled the church at the saying of the first mass. The church was +about thirty by one hundred and twelve feet and twenty-five feet high. +The foundation walls to the height of three feet were of stone, the +front was of masonry, and the rest of adobes. The other buildings were +slowly erected, and in the autumn of 1796 a flouring-mill was built and +running. It was sadly damaged, however, by the December rains. Artisans +were sent to build the mill and instruct the natives, and later a smith +and a miller were sent to start it. + +In 1798 the padre wrote very discouragingly. The establishment of the +villa or town of Brancifort, across the river, was not pleasing. A +hundred and thirty-eight neophytes also had deserted, ninety of whom +were afterwards brought in by Corporal Mesa. It had long been the +intention of the government to found more pueblos or towns, as well as +Missions in California, the former for the purpose of properly +colonizing the country. Governor Borica made some personal explorations, +and of three suggested sites finally chose that just across the river +Lorenzo from Santa Cruz. May 12, 1797, certain settlers who had been +recruited in Guadalajara arrived in a pitiable condition at Monterey; +and soon thereafter they were sent to the new site under the direction +of Comisionado Moraga, who was authorized to erect temporary shelters +for them. August 12 the superintendent of the formal foundation, +Cordoba, had all the surveying accomplished, part of an irrigating canal +dug, and temporary houses partially erected. In August, after the +viceroy had seen the estimated cost of the establishment, further +progress was arrested by want of funds. Before the end of the century +everybody concerned had come to the conclusion that the villa of +Brancifort was a great blunder,--the "settlers are a scandal to the +country by their immorality. They detest their exile, and render +no service." + +In the meantime the Mission authorities protested vigorously against the +new settlement. It was located on the pasture grounds of the Indians; +the laws allowed the Missions a league in every direction, and trouble +would surely result. But the governor retorted, defending his choice of +a site, and claiming that the neophytes were dying off, there were no +more pagans to convert, and the neophytes already had more land and +raised more grain than they could attend to. + +In 1805 Captain Goycoechea recommended that as there were no more +gentiles, the neophytes be divided between the Missions of Santa Clara +and San Juan, and the missionaries sent to new fields. Of course nothing +came of this. + +In the decade 1820-1830 population declined rapidly, though in +live-stock the Mission about held its own, and in agriculture actually +increased. In 1823, however, there was another attempt to suppress it, +and this doubtless came from the conflicts between the villa of +Brancifort and the Mission. The effort, like the former one, was +unsuccessful. + +In 1834-1835 Ignacio del Valle acted as comisionado, and put in effect +the order of secularization. His valuation of the property was $47,000, +exclusive of land and church property, besides $10,000 distributed to +the Indians. There were no subsequent distributions, yet the property +disappeared, for, in 1839, when Visitador Hartwell went to Santa Cruz, +he found only about one-sixth of the live-stock of the inventory of four +years before. The neophytes were organized into a pueblo named Figueroa +after the governor; but it was a mere organization in name, and the +condition of the ex-Mission was no different from that of any of +the others. + +The statistics for the whole period of the Mission's existence, +1791-1834, are: baptisms, 2466; marriages, 847; deaths, 2035. The +largest population was 644 in 1798. The largest number of cattle was +3700 in 1828; horses, 900, in the same year; mules, 92, in 1805; sheep, +8300, in 1826. + +In January, 1840, the tower fell, and a number of tiles were carried +off, a kind of premonition of the final disaster of 1851, when the walls +fell, and treasure seekers completed the work of demolition. + +The community of the Mission was completely broken up in 1841-1842, +everything being regarded, henceforth, as part of Brancifort. In 1845 +the lands, buildings, and fruit trees of the ex-Mission were valued at +less than $1000, and only about forty Indians were known to remain. The +Mission has now entirely disappeared. + + + +CHAPTER XXII + +LA SOLEDAD + +The Mission of "Our Lady of Solitude" has only a brief record in written +history; but the little that is known and the present condition of the +ruins suggest much that has never been recorded. + +Early in 1791 Padre Lasuen, who was searching for suitable locations for +two new Missions, arrived at a point midway between San Antonio and +Santa Clara. With quick perception he recognized the advantages of +Soledad, known to the Indians as _Chuttusgelis_. The name of this +region, bestowed by Crespi years previous, was suggestive of its +solitude and dreariness; but the wide, vacant fields indicated good +pasturage in seasons favored with much rain, and the possibility of +securing water for irrigation promised crops from the arid lands. Lasuen +immediately selected the most advantageous site for the new Mission, but +several months elapsed before circumstances permitted the erection of +the first rude structures. + +On October ninth the Mission was finally established. + +There were comparatively few Indians in that immediate region, and only +eleven converts were reported as the result of the efforts of the first +year. There was ample room for flocks and herds, and although the soil +was not of the best and much irrigation was necessary to produce good +crops, the padres with their persistent labors gradually increased their +possessions and the number of their neophytes. At the close of the ninth +year there were 512 Indians living at the Mission, and their property +included a thousand cattle, several thousand sheep, and a good supply of +horses. Five years later (in 1805) there were 727 neophytes, in spite of +the fact that a severe epidemic a few years previously had reduced their +numbers and caused many to flee from the Mission in fear. A new church +was begun in 1808. + +On July 24, 1814, Governor Arrillaga, who had been taken seriously ill +while on a tour of inspection, and had hurried to Soledad to be under +the care of his old friend, Padre Ibanez, died there, and was buried, +July 26, under the center of the church. + +For about forty years priests and natives lived a quiet, peaceful life +in this secluded valley, with an abundance of food and comfortable +shelter. That they were blessed with plenty and prosperity is evidenced +by the record that in 1829 they furnished $1150 to the Monterey +presidio. At one time they possessed over six thousand cattle; and in +1821 the number of cattle, sheep, horses, and other animals was +estimated at over sixteen thousand. + +[Illustration: ANOTHER VIEW OF THE WALLS OF MISSION LA SOLEDAD.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN JOSE. SOON AFTER THE DECREE OF +SECULARIZATION. From an old print.] + +[Illustration: FIGURE OF CHRIST, MISSION SAN JOSE ORPHANAGE.] + +After the changes brought about by political administration the +number of Indians rapidly decreased, and the property acquired by their +united toil quickly dwindled away, until little was left but poverty and +suffering. + +At the time secularization was effected in 1835, according to the +inventory made, the estate, aside from church property, was valued at +$36,000. Six years after secular authorities took charge only about 70 +Indians remained, with 45 cattle, 25 horses, and 865 sheep,--and a large +debt had been incurred. On June 4, 1846, the Soledad Mission was sold to +Feliciano Soveranes for $800. + +One of the pitiful cases that occurred during the decline of the +Missions was the death of Padre Sarria, which took place at Soledad in +1835, or, as some authorities state, in 1838. This venerable priest had +been very prominent in missionary labors, having occupied the position +of _Comisario Prefecto_ during many years. He was also the presidente +for several years. As a loyal Spaniard he declined to take the oath of +allegiance to the Mexican Republic, and was nominally under arrest for +about five years, or subject to exile; but so greatly was he revered and +trusted as a man of integrity and as a business manager of great ability +that the order of exile was never enforced. The last years of his life +were spent at the Mission of Our Lady of Solitude. When devastation +began and the temporal prosperity of the Mission quickly declined, this +faithful pastor of a fast thinning flock refused to leave the few +poverty-stricken Indians who still sought to prolong life in their old +home. One Sunday morning, while saying mass in the little church, the +enfeebled and aged padre fell before the altar and immediately expired. +As it had been reported that he was "leading a hermit's life and +destitute of means," it was commonly believed that this worthy and +devoted missionary was exhausted from lack of proper food, and in +reality died of starvation. + +There were still a few Indians at Soledad in 1850, their scattered huts +being all that remained of the once large rancherias that existed here. + +The ruins of Soledad are about four miles from the station of the +Southern Pacific of that name. The church itself is at the southwest +corner of a mass of ruins. These are all of adobe, though the +foundations are of rough rock. Flint pebbles have been mixed with the +adobe of the church walls. They were originally about three feet thick, +and plastered. A little of the plaster still remains. + +In 1904 there was but one circular arch remaining in all the ruins; +everything else had fallen in. The roof fell in thirty years ago. At the +eastern end, where the arch is, there are three or four rotten beams +still in place; and on the south side of the ruins, where one line of +corridors ran, a few poles still remain. Heaps of ruined tiles lie here +and there, just as they fell when the supporting poles rotted and +gave way. + +It is claimed by the Soberanes family in Soledad that the present ruins +of the church are of the building erected about 1850 by their +grandfather. The family lived in a house just southwest of the Mission, +and there this grandfather was born. He was baptized, confirmed, and +married in the old church, and when, after secularization, the Mission +property was offered for sale, he purchased it. As the church--in the +years of pitiful struggle for possession, of its temporalities--had been +allowed to go to ruin, this true son of the Church erected the building, +the ruins of which now bring sadness to the hearts of all who care for +the Missions. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII + +SAN JOSE DE GUADALUPE + +There was a period of rest after the founding of Santa Cruz and La +Soledad. Padre Presidente Lasuen was making ready for a new and great +effort. Hitherto the Mission establishments had been isolated units of +civilization, each one alone in its work save for the occasional visits +of governor, inspector, or presidente. Now they were to be linked +together, by the founding of intermediate Missions, into one great +chain, near enough for mutual help and encouragement, the boundary of +one practically the boundary of the next one, both north and south. The +two new foundations of Santa Cruz and Soledad were a step in this +direction, but now the plan was to be completed. With the viceroy's +approval, Governor Borica authorized Lasuen to have the regions between +the old Missions carefully explored for new sites. Accordingly the +padres and their guards were sent out, and simultaneously such a work of +investigation began as was never before known. Reports were sent in, and +finally, after a careful study of the whole situation, it was concluded +that five new Missions could be established and a great annual saving +thereby made in future yearly expenses. Governor Borica's idea was that +the new Missions would convert all the gentile Indians west of the Coast +Range. This done, the guards could be reduced at an annual saving of +$15,000. This showing pleased the viceroy, and he agreed to provide the +$1000 needed for each new establishment on the condition that no added +military force be called for. The guardian of San Fernando College was +so notified August 19, 1796; and on September 29 he in turn announced to +the viceroy that the required ten missionaries were ready, but begged +that no reduction be made in the guards at the Missions already +established. Lasuen felt that it would create large demands upon the old +Missions to found so many new ones all at once, as they must help with +cattle, horses, sheep, neophyte laborers, etc.; yet, to obtain the +Missions, he was willing to do his very best, and felt sure his brave +associates would further his efforts in every possible way. Thus it was +that San Jose was founded, as before related, on June 11, 1797. The same +day all returned to Santa Clara, and five days elapsed ere the guards +and laborers were sent to begin work. Timbers were cut and water brought +to the location, and soon the temporary buildings were ready for +occupancy. By the end of the year there were 33 converts, and in 1800, +286. A wooden structure with a grass roof served as a church. + +In 1809, April 23, the new church was completed, and Presidente Tapis +came and blessed it. The following day he preached, and Padre Arroyo de +la Cuesta said mass before a large congregation, including other +priests, several of the military, and people from the pueblo and Santa +Clara, and various neophytes. The following July the cemetery was +blessed with the usual solemnities. + +In 1811 Padre Fortuni accompanied Padre Abella on a journey of +exploration to the Sacramento and San Joaquin valleys. They were gone +fifteen days, found the Indians very timid, and thought the shores of +the Sacramento offered a favorable site for a new Mission. + +In 1817 Sergeant Soto, with one hundred San Jose neophytes, met twelve +soldiers from San Francisco, and proceeded, by boat, to pursue some +fugitives. They went up a river, possibly the San Joaquin, to a marshy +island where, according to Soto's report, a thousand hostiles were +assembled, who immediately fell upon their pursuers and fought them for +three hours. So desperately did they fight, relying upon their superior +numbers, that Soto was doubtful as to the result; but eventually they +broke and fled, swimming to places of safety, leaving many dead and +wounded but no captives. Only one neophyte warrior was killed. + +In 1820 San Jose reported a population of 1754, with 6859 large stock, +859 horses, etc., and 12,000 sheep. + +For twenty-seven years Padre Duran, who from 1825 to 1827 was also the +padre presidente, served Mission San Jose. In 1824 it reached its +maximum of population in 1806 souls. In everything it was prosperous, +standing fourth on the list both as to crops and herds. + +Owing to its situation, being the first Mission reached by trappers, +etc., from the east, and also being the nearest to the valleys of the +Sacramento and San Joaquin, which afforded good retreats for fugitives, +San Jose had an exciting history. In 1826 there was an expedition +against the Cosumnes, in which forty Indians were killed, a rancheria +destroyed, and forty captives taken. In 1829 the famous campaign against +Estanislas, who has given his name to both a river and county, took +place. This Indian was a neophyte of San Jose, and being of more than +usual ability and smartness, was made alcalde. In 1827 or early in 1828 +he ran away, and with a companion, Cipriano, and a large following, soon +made himself the terror of the rancheros of the neighborhood. One +expedition sent against him resulted disastrously, owing to insufficient +equipment, so a determined effort under M.G. Vallejo, who was now the +commander-in-chief of the whole California army, was made. May 29 he and +his forces crossed the San Joaquin River on rafts, and arrived the next +day at the scene of the former battle. With taunts, yells of defiance, +and a shower of arrows, Estanislas met the coming army, he and his +forces hidden in the fancied security of an impenetrable forest. +Vallejo at once set men to work in different directions to fire the +wood, which brought some of the Indians to the edge, where they were +slain. As evening came on, twenty-five men and an officer entered the +wood and fought until dusk, retiring with three men wounded. Next +morning Vallejo, with thirty-seven soldiers, entered the wood, where he +found pits, ditches, and barricades arranged with considerable skill. +Nothing but fire could have dislodged the enemy. They had fled under +cover of night. Vallejo set off in pursuit, and when, two days later, he +surrounded them, they declared they would die rather than surrender. A +road was cut through chaparral with axes, along which the field-piece +and muskets were pressed forward and discharged. The Indians retreated +slowly, wounding eight soldiers. When the cannon was close to the +enemies' intrenchments the ammunition gave out, and this fact and the +heat of the burning thicket compelled retreat. During the night the +Indians endeavored to escape, one by one, but most of them were killed +by the watchful guards. The next day nothing but the dead and three +living women were found. There were some accusations, later, that +Vallejo summarily executed some captives; but he denied it, and claimed +that the only justification for any such charge arose from the fact that +one man and one woman had been killed, the latter wrongfully by a +soldier, whom he advised be punished. + +Up to the time of secularization, the Mission continued to be one of +the most prosperous. Jesus Vallejo was the administrator for +secularization, and in 1837 he and Padre Gonzalez Rubio made an +inventory which gave a total of over $155,000, when all debts were paid. +Even now for awhile it seemed to prosper, and not until 1840 did the +decline set in. + +In accordance with Micheltorena's decree of March 29, 1843, San Jose was +restored to the temporal control of the padres, who entered with +good-will and zest into the labor of saving what they could out of the +wreck. Under Pico's decree of 1845 the Mission was inventoried, but the +document cannot now be found, nor a copy of it. The population was +reported as 400 in 1842, and it is supposed that possibly 250 still +lived at the Mission in 1845. On May 5, 1846, Pico sold all the property +to Andres Pico and J.B. Alvarado for $12,000, but the sale never went +into effect. + +Mission San Jose de Guadalupe and the pueblo of the same name are not, +as so many people, even residents of California, think, one and the +same. The pueblo of San Jose is now the modern city of that name, the +home of the State Normal School, and the starting-point for Mount +Hamilton. But Mission San Jose is a small settlement, nearly twenty +miles east and north, in the foothills overlooking the southeast end of +San Francisco Bay. The Mission church has entirely disappeared, an +earthquake in 1868 having completed the ruin begun by the spoliation at +the time of secularization. A modern parish church has since been built +upon the site. Nothing of the original Mission now remains except a +portion of the monastery. The corridor is without arches, and is plain +and unpretentious, the roof being composed of willows tied to the +roughly hewn log rafters with rawhide. Behind this is a beautiful old +alameda of olives, at the upper end of which a modern orphanage, +conducted by the Dominican Sisters, has been erected. This avenue of +olives is crossed by another one at right angles, and both were planted +by the padres in the early days, as is evidenced by the age of the +trees. Doubtless many a procession of Indian neophytes has walked up and +down here, even as I saw a procession of the orphans and their +white-garbed guardians a short time ago. The surrounding garden is kept +up in as good style under the care of the sisters as it was in early +days by the padres. + +The orphanage was erected in 1884 by Archbishop Alemany as a seminary +for young men who wished to study for the priesthood, but it was never +very successful in this work. For awhile it remained empty, then was +offered to the Dominican Sisters as a boarding-school. But as this +undertaking did not pay, in 1891 Archbishop Riordan offered such terms +as led the Mother General of the Dominican Sisters to purchase it as an +orphanage, and as such it is now most successfully conducted. There are +at the present time about eighty children cared for by these sweet and +gentle sisters of our Lord. + +Two of the old Mission bells are hung in the new church. On one of these +is the inscription: "S.S. Jose. Ano de 1826." And on the upper bell, +"S.S. Joseph 1815, Ave Maria Purisima." + +The old Mission baptismal font is also still in use. It is of hammered +copper, about three feet in diameter, surmounted by an iron cross about +eight inches high. The font stands upon a wooden base, painted, and is +about four feet high. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV + +SAN JUAN BAUTISTA + +The second of the "filling up the links of the chain" Missions was that +of San Juan Bautista. Three days after the commandant of San Francisco +had received his orders to furnish a guard for the founders of Mission +San Jose, the commandant of Monterey received a like order for a guard +for the founders of San Juan Bautista. This consisted of five men and +Corporal Ballesteros. By June 17 this industrious officer had erected a +church, missionary-house, granary, and guard-house, and a week later +Lasuen, with the aid of two priests, duly founded the new Mission. The +site was a good one, and by 1800 crops to the extent of 2700 bushels +were raised. At the same time 516 neophytes were reported--not bad for +two and a half years' work. + +In 1798 the gentiles from the mountains twenty-five miles east of San +Juan, the Ansayames, surrounded the Mission by night, but were prevailed +upon to retire. Later some of the neophytes ran away and joined these +hostiles, and then a force was sent to capture the runaways and +administer punishment. In the ensuing fight a chief was killed and +another wounded, and two gentiles brought in to be forcibly educated. +Other rancherias were visited, fifty fugitives arrested, and a few +floggings and many warnings given. + +[Illustration: RUINED WALLS AND NEW BELL TOWER, MISSION SAN JUAN +BAUTISTA] + +[Illustration: FACHADA OF MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, FROM THE PLAZA] + +[Illustration: THE ARCHED CORRIDOR, MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA] + +This did not prevent the Ansayames, however, from killing two Mutsunes +at San Benito Creek, burning a house and some wheat-fields, and +seriously threatening the Mission. Moraga was sent against them and +captured eighteen hostiles and the chiefs of the hostile rancherias. + +Almost as bad as warlike Indians were the earthquakes of that year, +several in number, which cracked all the adobe walls of the buildings +and compelled everybody--friars and Indians--to sleep out of doors +for safety. + +In 1803 the governor ordered the padres of San Juan to remove their +stock from La Brea rancho, which had been granted to Mariano Castro. +They refused on the grounds that the rancho properly belonged to the +Mission and should not have been granted to Castro, and on appeal the +viceroy confirmed their contention. + +In June of this year the corner-stone of a new church was laid. Padre +Viader conducted the ceremonies, aided by the resident priests. Don Jose +de la Guerra was the sponsor, and Captain Font and Surgeon +Morelos assisted. + +In June, 1809, the image of San Juan was placed on the high altar in the +sacristy, which served for purposes of worship until the completion of +the church. + +By the end of the decade the population had grown to 702, though the +number of deaths was large, and it continued slowly to increase until in +1823 it reached its greatest population with 1248 souls. + +The new church was completed and dedicated on June 23, 1812. In 1818 a +new altar was completed, and a painter named Chavez demanded six reals a +day for decorating. As the Mission could not afford this, a Yankee, +known as Felipe Santiago--properly Thomas Doak--undertook the work, +aided by the neophytes. In 1815 one of the ministers was Esteban Tapis, +who afterwards became the presidente. + +In 1836 San Juan was the scene of the preparations for hostility begun +by Jose Castro and Alvarado against Governor Gutierrez. Meetings were +held at which excited speeches were made advocating revolutionary +methods, and the fife and drum were soon heard by the peaceful +inhabitants of the old Mission. Many of the whites joined in with +Alvarado and Castro, and the affair ultimated in the forced exile of the +governor; Castro took his place until Alvarado was elected by the +_diputacion_. + +The regular statistics of San Juan cease in 1832, when there were 916 +Indians registered. In 1835, according to the decree of secularization, +63 Indians were "emancipated." Possibly these were the heads of +families. Among these were to be distributed land valued at $5120, +live-stock, including 41 horses, $1782, implements, effects, +etc., $1467. + +The summary of statistics from the founding of the Mission in 1797 to +1834 shows 4100 baptisms, 1028 marriages, 3027 deaths. The largest +number of cattle owned was 11,000 in 1820, 1598 horses in 1806, 13,000 +sheep in 1816. + +In 1845, when Pico's decree was issued, San Juan was considered a +pueblo, and orders given for the sale of all property except a curate's +house, the church, and a court-house. The inventory gave a value of +$8000. The population was now about 150, half of whom were whites and +the other half Indians. + +It will be remembered that it was at San Juan that Castro organized his +forces to repel what he considered the invasion of Fremont in 1846. From +Gavilan heights, near by, the explorer looked down and saw the warlike +preparations directed against him, and from there wrote his declaration: +"I am making myself as strong as possible, in the intention that if we +are unjustly attacked we will fight to extremity and refuse quarter, +trusting to our country to avenge our death." + +In 1846 Pico sold all that remained of San Juan Bautista--the +orchard--to O. Deleisseques for a debt, and though he did not obtain +possession at the time, the United States courts finally confirmed his +claim. This was the last act in the history of the once +prosperous Mission. + +The entrance at San Juan Bautista seems more like that of a prison than +a church. The Rev Valentin Closa, of the Company of Jesus, who for many +years has had charge here, found that some visitors were so +irresponsible that thefts were of almost daily occurrence. So he had a +wooden barrier placed across the church from wall to wall, and floor to +ceiling, through which a gate affords entrance, and this gate is kept +padlocked with as constant watchfulness as is that of a prison. Passing +this barrier, the two objects that immediately catch one's eye are the +semicircular arch dividing the church from the altar and the old wooden +pulpit on the left. + +Of the modern bell-tower it can only be said that it is a pity necessity +seemed to compel the erection of such an abortion. The old padres +seldom, if ever, failed in their architectural taste. However one may +criticise their lesser work, such as the decorations, he is compelled to +admire their _large_ work; they were right, powerful, and dignified in +their straightforward simplicity. And it is pathetic that in later days, +when workmen and money were scarce, the modern priests did not see some +way of overcoming obstacles that would have been more harmonious with +the old plans than is evidenced by this tower and many other similar +incongruities, such as the steel bell-tower at San Miguel. + +[Illustration: DOORWAY, MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA.] + +[Illustration: STAIRWAY LEADING TO PULPIT, MISSION SAN JUAN BAUTISTA.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL, FROM THE SOUTH.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL AND CORRIDORS.] + +At San Juan Bautista the old reredos remains, though the altar is new. +The six figures of the saints are the original ones placed there when it +was first erected. In the center, at the top, is Our Lady of +Guadalupe; to the left, San Antonio de Padua; to the right, San Isadore +de Madrid (the patron saint of all farmers); below, in the center, is +the saint of the Mission, San Juan Bautista, on his left, St. Francis, +and on his right, San Buenaventura. + +The baptistery is on the left, at the entrance. Over its old, solid, +heavy doors rises a half-circular arch. Inside are two bowls of heavy +sandstone. + +In the belfry are two bells, one of which is modern, cast in San +Francisco. The other is the largest Mission bell, I believe, in +California. It bears the inscription: "Ave Maria Purisima S. Fernando +RVELAS me Fecit 1809." + +There is a small collection of objects of interest connected with the +old Mission preserved in one room of the monastery. Among other things +are two of the chorals; pieces of rawhide used for tying the beams, +etc., in the original construction; the head of a bass-viol that used to +be played by one of the Indians; a small mortar; and quite a number of +books. Perhaps the strangest thing in the whole collection is an old +barrel-organ made by Benjamin Dobson, The Minories, London. It has +several barrels and on one of them is the following list of its tunes: +Go to the Devil; Spanish Waltz; College Hornpipe; Lady Campbell's Reel. +One can imagine with what feelings one of the sainted padres, after a +peculiarly trying day with his aboriginal children, would put in this +barrel, and while his lips said holy things, his hand instinctively +ground out with vigor the first piece on the list. + + + +CHAPTER XXV + +SAN MIGUEL, ARCANGEL + +Lasuen's third Mission, of 1797, was San Miguel, located near a large +rancheria named _Sagshpileel_, and on the site called _Vahia_. One +reason for the selection of the location is given in the fact that there +was plenty of water at Santa Isabel and San Marcos for the irrigation of +three hundred fanegas of seed. To this day the springs of Santa Isabel +are a joy and delight to all who know them, and the remains of the old +irrigating canals and dams, dug and built by the padres, are still to +be seen. + +On the day of the founding, Lasuen's heart was made glad by the +presentation of fifteen children for baptism. At the end of 1800 there +were 362 neophytes, 372 horses and cattle, and 1582 smaller animals. The +crop of 1800 was 1900 bushels. + +Padre Antonio de la Concepcion Horra, who was shortly after deported as +insane, and who gave Presidente Lasuen considerable trouble by +preferring serious charges against the Missions, was one of the first +ministers. + +In February of 1801 the two padres were attacked with violent pains in +the stomach and they feared the neophytes had poisoned them, but they +soon recovered. Padre Pujol, who came from Monterey to aid them, did not +fare so well for he was taken sick in a similar manner and died. Three +Indians were arrested, but it was never decided whether poison had been +used or not. The Indians escaped when being taken north to the presidio, +and eventually the padres pleaded for their release, asking however that +they be flogged in the presence of their families for having boasted +that they had poisoned the padres. + +In August, 1806, a disastrous fire occurred, destroying all the +manufacturing part of the establishment as well as a large quantity of +wool, hides, cloth, and 6000 bushels of wheat. The roof of the church +was also partially burned. At the end of the decade San Miguel had a +population of 973, and in the number of its sheep it was excelled only +by San Juan Capistrano. + +In 1818 a new church was reported as ready for roofing, and this was +possibly built to replace the one partially destroyed by fire in 1806. +In 1814 the Mission registered its largest population in 1076 neophytes, +and in live-stock it showed satisfactory increase at the end of the +decade, though in agriculture it had not been so successful. + +Ten years later it had to report a great diminution in its flocks and +herds and its neophytes. The soil and pasture were also found to be +poor, though vines flourished and timber was plentiful. Robinson, who +visited San Miguel at this time, reports it as a poor establishment and +tells a large story about the heat suffocating the fleas. Padre Martin +died in 1824. + +In 1834 there were but 599 neophytes on the register. In 1836 Ignacio +Coronel took charge in order to carry out the order of secularization, +and when the inventory was made it showed the existence of property, +excluding everything pertaining to the church, of $82,000. In 1839 this +amount was reduced to $75,000. This large valuation was owing to the +fact that there were several ranches and buildings and two large +vineyards belonging to the Mission. These latter were Santa Isabel and +Aguage, with 5500 vines, valued at $22,162. + +The general statistics from the founding in 1797 to 1834 give 2588 +baptisms, 2038 deaths; largest population was 1076 in 1814. The largest +number of cattle was 10,558 in 1822, horses 1560 in 1822, mules 140 in +1817, sheep 14,000 in 1820. + +In 1836 Padre Moreno reported that when Coronel came all the available +property was distributed among the Indians, except the grain, and of +that they carried off more than half. In 1838 the poor padre complained +bitterly of his poverty and the disappearance of the Mission property. +There is no doubt but that here as elsewhere the Mission was plundered +on every hand, and the officers appointed to guard its interests were +among the plunderers. + +In 1844 Presidente Duran reported that San Miguel had neither lands nor +cattle, and that its neophytes were demoralized and scattered for want +of a minister. Pico's 1845 decree warned the Indians that they must +return within a month and occupy their lands, or they would be disposed +of; and in 1846 Pico reported the Mission sold, though no consideration +is named, to P. Rios and Wm. Reed. The purchasers took possession, but +the courts later declared their title invalid. In 1848 Reed and his +whole family were atrociously murdered. The murderers were pursued; one +was fatally wounded, one jumped into the sea and was drowned, and the +other three were caught and executed. + +The register of baptisms at San Miguel begins July 25, 1797, and up to +1861 contains 2917 names. Between the years 1844 and 1851 there is a +vacancy, and only one name occurs in the latter year. The title-page is +signed by Fr. Fermin Franco de Lasuen, and the priests in charge are +named as Fr. Buenaventura Sitjar and Fr. Antonio de la Conception. + +At the end of this book is a list of 43 children of the "gentes de +razon" included in the general list, but here specialized for reference. + +The registry of deaths contains 2249 names up to 1841. The first entry +is signed by Fr. Juan Martin and the next two by Fr. Sitjar. + +The old marriage register of the Mission of San Miguel is now at San +Luis Obispo. It has a title-page signed by Fr. Lasuen. + +In 1888 some of the old bells of the Mission were sent to San Francisco +and there were recast into one large bell, weighing 2500 pounds. Until +1902 this stood on a rude wooden tower in front of the church, but in +that year an incongruous steel tower took its place. Packed away in a +box still remains one of the old bells, which has sounded its last call. +A large hole is in one side of it. The inscription, as near as I can +make out, reads "A. D. 1800, S.S. Gabriel." + +In 1901 the outside of the church and monastery was restored with a coat +of new plaster and cement. Inside nearly everything is as it was left by +the robber hand of secularization. + +On the walls are the ten oil paintings brought by the original founders. +They are very indistinct in the dim light of the church, and little can +be said of their artistic value without further examination. + +There is also an old breviary with two heavy, hand-made clasps, dated +Antwerp, 1735, and containing the autograph of Fr. Man. de Castaneda. + +There is a quadrangle at San Miguel 230 feet square, and on one side of +it a corridor corresponding to the one in front, for six pillars of +burnt brick still remain. + +At the rear of the church was the original church, used before the +present one was built, and a number of remains of the old houses of the +neophytes still stand, though in a very dilapidated condition. + +San Miguel was always noted for its proximity to the Hot Springs and +Sulphur Mud Baths of Paso Robles. Both Indians and Mission padres knew +of their healthful and curative properties, and in the early days scores +of thousands enjoyed their peculiar virtues. Little by little the +"superior race" is learning that in natural therapeutics the Indian is a +reasonably safe guide to follow; hence the present extensive use by the +whites of the Mud and Sulphur Baths at Paso Robles. Methinks the Indians +of a century ago, though doubtless astonished at the wonderful temple to +the white man's God built at San Miguel, would wonder much more were +they now to see the elaborate and splendid house recently erected at +Paso Robles for the purpose of giving to more white people the baths, +the virtue of which they so well knew. + +[Illustration: SEEKING TO PREVENT THE PHOTOGRAPHER FROM MAKING A +PICTURE OF MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL.] + +[Illustration: OLD PULPIT AT MISSION SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL.] + +[Illustration: RESTORED MONASTERY AND MISSION CHURCH OF SAN FERNANDO +REY.] + +[Illustration: CORRIDORS AT SAN FERNANDO REY.] + + + +CHAPTER XXVI + +SAN FERNANDO, REY DE ESPAGNA + +On September 8, 1797, the seventeenth of the California Missions was +founded by Padre Lasuen, in the Encino Valley, where Francisco Reyes had +a rancho in the Los Angeles jurisdiction. The natives called it _Achois +Comihavit_. Reyes' house was appropriated as a temporary dwelling for +the missionary. The Mission was dedicated to Fernando III, King of +Spain. Lasuen came down from San Miguel to Santa Barbara, especially for +the foundation, and from thence with Sergeant Olivera and a military +escort. These, with Padre Francisco Dumetz, the priest chosen to have +charge, and his assistant, Francisco Favier Uria, composed, with the +large concourse of Indians, the witnesses of the solemn ceremonial. + +On the fourth of October Olivera reported the guard-house and storehouse +finished, two houses begun, and preparations already being made for +the church. + +From the baptismal register it is seen that ten children were baptized +the first day, and thirteen adults were received early in October. By +the end of 1797 there were fifty-five neophytes. + +Three years after its founding 310 Indians were gathered in, and its +year's crop was 1000 bushels of grain. The Missions of San Juan +Capistrano, San Gabriel, San Buenaventura, and Santa Barbara had +contributed live-stock, and now its herds had grown to 526 horses, +mules, and cattle, and 600 sheep. + +In December, 1806, an adobe church, with a tile roof, was consecrated, +which on the 21st of December, 1812, was severely injured by the +earthquake that did damage to almost all the Missions of the chain. +Thirty new beams were needed to support the injured walls. A new chapel +was built, which was completed in 1818. + +In 1834 Lieutenant Antonio del Valle was the comisionado appointed to +secularize the Mission, and the next year he became majordomo and served +until 1837. + +It was on his journey north, in 1842, to take hold of the governorship, +that Micheltorena learned at San Fernando of Commodore Jones's raising +of the American flag at Monterey. By his decree, also, in 1843, San +Fernando was ordered returned to the control of the padres, which was +done, though the next year Duran reported that there were but few cattle +left, and two vineyards. + +Micheltorena was destined again to appear at San Fernando, for when the +Californians under Pio Pico and Castro rose to drive out the Mexicans, +the governor finally capitulated at the same place, as he had heard the +bad news of the Americans' capture of Monterey. February 21, 1845, after +a bloodless "battle" at Cahuenga, he "abdicated," and finally left the +country and returned to Mexico. + +In 1845 Juan Manso and Andres Pico leased the Mission at a rental of +$1120, the affairs having been fairly well administered by Padre Orday +after its return to the control of the friars. A year later it was sold +by Pio Pico, under the order of the assembly, for $14,000, to Eulogio +Celis, whose title was afterwards confirmed by the courts. Orday +remained as pastor until May, 1847, and was San Fernando's last minister +under the Franciscans. + +In 1847 San Fernando again heard the alarm of war. Fremont and his +battalion reached here in January, and remained until the signing of the +treaty of Cahuenga, which closed all serious hostilities against the +United States in its conquest of California. + +Connected with the Mission of San Fernando is the first discovery of +California gold. Eight years before the great days of '49 Francisco +Lopez, the _mayordomo_ of the Mission, was in the canyon of San +Feliciano, which is about eight miles westerly from the present town of +Newhall, and according to Don Abel Stearns, "with a companion, while in +search of some stray horses, about midday stopped under some trees and +tied their horses to feed. While resting in the shade, Lopez with his +sheath knife dug up some wild onions, and in the dirt discovered a piece +of gold. Searching further, he found more. On his return to town he +showed these pieces to his friends, who at once declared there must be a +placer of gold there." + +Then the rush began. As soon as the people in Los Angeles and Santa +Barbara heard of it, they flocked to the new "gold fields" in hundreds. +And the first California gold dust ever coined at the government mint at +Philadelphia came from these mines. It was taken around Cape Horn in a +sailing-vessel by Alfred Robinson, the translator of Boscana's _Indians +of California_, and consisted of 18.34 ounces, and made $344.75, or over +$19 to the ounce. + +Davis says that in the first two years after the discovery not less than +from $80,000 to $100,000 was gathered. Don Antonio Coronel, with three +Indian laborers, in 1842, took out $600 worth of dust in two months. + +Water being scarce, the methods of washing the gravel were both crude +and wasteful. And it is interesting to note that the first gold "pans" +were _bateas_, or bowl-shaped Indian baskets. + +The church at San Fernando is in a completely ruined condition. It +stands southwest to northeast. The entrance is at the southwest end and +the altar at the northeast. There is also a side entrance at the east, +with a half-circular arch, sloping into a larger arch inside, with a +flat top and rounded upper corners. The thickness of the walls allows +the working out of various styles in these outer and inner arches that +is curious and interesting. They reveal the individuality of the +builder, and as they are all structural and pleasing, they afford a +wonderful example of variety in adapting the arch to its necessary +functions. + +[Illustration: SHEEP AT MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY.] + +[Illustration: RUINS OF OLD ADOBE WALL AND CHURCH, MISSION SAN FERNANDO +REY.] + +[Illustration: MONASTERY AND OLD FOUNTAIN AT MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY.] + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF RUINED CHURCH, MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY.] + +The graveyard is on the northwest side of the church, and close by is +the old olive orchard, where a number of fine trees are still growing. +There are also two large palms, pictures of which are generally taken +with the Mission in the background, and the mountains beyond. It is an +exquisite subject. The remains of adobe walls still surround +the orchard. + +The doorway leading to the graveyard is of a half-circle inside, and +slopes outward, where the arch is square. + +There is a buttress of burnt brick to the southeast of the church, which +appears as if it might have been an addition after the earthquake. + +At the monastery the chief entrance is a simple but effective arched +doorway, now plastered and whitewashed. The double door frame projects +pilaster-like, with a four-membered cornice above, from which rises an +elliptical arch, with an elliptical cornice about a foot above. + +From this monastery one looks out upon a court or plaza which is +literally dotted with ruins, though they are mainly of surrounding +walls. Immediately in the foreground is a fountain, the reservoir of +which is built of brick covered with cement. A double bowl rests on the +center standard. + +Further away in the court are the remnants of what may have been another +fountain, the reservoir of which is made of brick, built into a singular +geometrical figure. This is composed of eight semicircles, with V's +connecting them, the apex of each V being on the outside. It appears +like an attempt at creating a conventionalized flower in brick. + +Two hundred yards or so away from the monastery is a square structure, +the outside of boulders. Curiosity prompting, you climb up, and on +looking in you find that inside this framework of boulders are two +circular cisterns of brick, fully six feet in diameter across the top, +decreasing in size to the bottom, which is perhaps four feet +in diameter. + +In March, 1905, considerable excitement was caused by the actions of the +parish priest of San Fernando, a Frenchman named Le Bellegny, of +venerable appearance and gentle manners. Not being acquainted with the +_status quo_ of the old Mission, he exhumed the bodies of the Franciscan +friars who had been buried in the church and reburied them. He removed +the baptismal font to his church, and unroofed some of the old buildings +and took the tiles and timbers away. As soon as he understood the matter +he ceased his operations, but, unfortunately, not before considerable +damage was done. + + + +CHAPTER XXVII + +SAN LUIS, REY DE FRANCIA + +The last Mission of the century, the last of Lasuen's administration, +and the last south of Santa Barbara, was that of San Luis Rey. Lasuen +himself explored the region and determined the site. The governor agreed +to it, and on February 27, 1798, ordered a guard to be furnished from +San Diego who should obey Lasuen implicitly and help erect the necessary +buildings for the new Mission. The founding took place on June 13, in +the presence of Captain Grajera and his guard, a few San Juan neophytes, +and many gentiles, Presidente Lasuen performing the ceremonies, aided by +Padres Peyri and Santiago. Fifty-four children were baptized at the same +time, and from the very start the Mission was prosperous. No other +missionary has left such a record as Padre Peyri. He was zealous, +sensible, and energetic. He knew what he wanted and how to secure it. +The Indians worked willingly for him, and by the 1st of July six +thousand adobes were made for the church. By the end of 1800 there were +237 neophytes, 617 larger stock, and 1600 sheep. + +The new church was completed in 1801-1802, but Peyri was too energetic +to stop at this. Buildings of all kinds were erected, and neophytes +gathered in so that by 1810 its population was 1519, with the smallest +death rate of any Mission. In 1811 Peyri petitioned the governor to +allow him to build a new and better church of adobes and bricks; but as +consent was not forthcoming, he went out to Pala, and in 1816 +established a branch establishment, built a church, and the picturesque +campanile now known all over the world, and soon had a thousand converts +tilling the soil and attending the services of the church. + +In 1826 San Luis Rey reached its maximum in population with 2869 +neophytes. From now on began its decline, though in material prosperity +it was far ahead of any other Mission. In 1828 it had 28,900 sheep, and +the cattle were also rapidly increasing. The average crop of grain was +12,660 bushels. + +San Luis Rey was one of the Missions where a large number of cattle were +slaughtered on account of the secularization decree. It is said that +some 20,000 head were killed at the San Jacinto Rancho alone. The +Indians were much stirred up over the granting of the ranches, which +they claimed were their own lands. Indeed they formed a plot to capture +the governor on one of his southern trips in order to protest to him +against the granting of the Temecula Rancho. + +[Illustration: HOUSE OF MEXICAN, MADE FROM RUINED WALL AND HILLS OF +MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY.] + +[Illustration: THE RUINED ALTAR, MORTUARY CHAPEL, SAN LUIS REY.] + +[Illustration: ILLUMINATED CHOIR MISSALS, ETC., AT MISSION SAN LUIS +REY.] + +The final secularization took place in November, 1834, with Captain +Portilla as comisionado and Pio Pico as majordomo and administrator +until 1840. There was trouble in apportioning the lands among the +Indians, for Portilla called for fifteen or twenty men to aid him in +quelling disturbances; and at Pala the majordomo was knocked down and +left for dead by an Indian. The inventory showed property (including the +church, valued at $30,000) worth $203,707, with debts of $93,000. The +six ranches were included as worth $40,437, the three most valuable +being Pala, Santa Margarita, and San Jacinto. + +Micheltorena's decree of 1843 restored San Luis Rey to priestly control, +but by that time its spoliation was nearly complete. Padre Zalvidea was +in his dotage, and the four hundred Indians had scarcely anything left +to them. Two years later the majordomo, appointed by Zalvidea to act for +him, turned over the property to his successor, and the inventory shows +the frightful wreckage. Of all the vast herds and flocks, only 279 +horses, 20 mules, 61 asses, 196 cattle, 27 yoke oxen, 700 sheep, and a +few valueless implements remained. All the ranches had passed into +private ownership. + +May 18, 1846, all that remained of the former king of Missions was sold +by Pio Pico to Cot and Jose Pico for $2437. Fremont dispossessed their +agent and they failed to gain repossession, the courts deciding that +Pico had no right to sell. In 1847 the celebrated Mormon battalion, +which Parkman so vividly describes in his _Oregon Trail_, were +stationed at San Luis Rey for two months, and later on, a re-enlisted +company was sent to take charge of it for a short time. On their +departure Captain Hunter, as sub-Indian agent, took charge and found a +large number of Indians, amenable to discipline and good workers. + +The general statistics from the founding in 1798 to 1834 show 5591 +baptisms, 1425 marriages, 2859 deaths. In 1832 there were 27,500 cattle, +2226 horses in 1828, 345 mules in the same year, 28,913 sheep in 1828, +and 1300 goats in 1832. + +In 1892 Father J.J. O'Keefe, who had done excellent work at Santa +Barbara, was sent to San Luis Rey to repair the church and make it +suitable for a missionary college of the Franciscan Order. May 12, 1893, +the rededication ceremonies of the restored building took place, the +bishop of the diocese, the vicar-general of the Franciscan Order and +other dignitaries being present and aiding in the solemnities. Three old +Indian women were also there who heard the mass said at the original +dedication of the church in 1802. Since that time Father O'Keefe has +raised and expended thousands of dollars in repairing, always keeping in +mind the original plans. He also rebuilt the monastery. + +San Luis Rey is now a college for the training of missionaries for the +field, and its work is in charge of Father Peter Wallischeck, who was +for so many years identified with the College of the Franciscans at +Santa Barbara. + +Immediately on entering the church one observes doorways to the right +and left--the one on the right bricked up. It is the door that used to +lead to the stairway of the bell-tower. In 1913 the doorway was opened. +The whole tower was found to be filled with adobe earth, why, no one +really knows, though it is supposed it may have been to preserve the +structure from falling in case of an earthquake. + +A semicircular arch spans the whole church from side to side, about +thirty feet, on which the original decorations still remain. These are +in rude imitation of marble, as at Santa Barbara, in black and red, with +bluish green lines. The wall colorings below are in imitation of +black marble. + +The choir gallery is over the main entrance, and there a great revolving +music-stand is still in use, with several of the large and interesting +illuminated manuscript singing-books of the early days. In Mission days +it was generally the custom to have two chanters, who took care of the +singing and the books. These, with all the other singers, stood around +the revolving music-stand, on which the large manuscript chorals +were placed. + +The old Byzantine pulpit still occupies its original position at San +Luis Rey, but the sounding-board is gone--no one knows whither. This is +of a type commonly found in Continental churches, the corbel with its +conical sides harmonizing with the ten panels and base-mouldings of the +box proper. It is fastened to the pilaster which supports the +arch above. + +The original paint--a little of it--still remains. It appears to have +been white on the panels, lined in red and blue. + +The pulpit was entered from the side altar, through a doorway pierced +through the wall. The steps leading up to it are of red burnt brick. +Evidently it was a home product, and was possibly made by one of Padre +Peyri's Indian carpenters, who was rapidly nearing graduation into the +ranks of the skilled cabinet-makers. + +The Mortuary Chapel is perhaps as fine a piece of work as any in the +whole Mission chain. It is beautiful even now in its sad dilapidation. +It was crowned with a domed roof of heavy cement. The entrance was by +the door in the church to the right of the main entrance. The room is +octagonal, with the altar in a recess, over which is a dome of brick, +with a small lantern. At each point of the octagon there is an engaged +column, built of circular-fronted brick which run to a point at the rear +and are thus built into the wall. A three-membered cornice crowns each +column, which supports arches that reach from one column to another. +There are two windows, one to the southeast, the other northwest. The +altar is at the northeast. There are two doorways, with stairways which +lead to a small outlook over the altar and the whole interior. These +were for the watchers of the dead, so that at a glance they might see +that nothing was disturbed. + +[Illustration: BELFRY WINDOW, MISSION SAN FERNANDO REY.] + +[Illustration: GRAVEYARD, RUINS OF MORTUARY CHAPEL AND TOWER, MISSION +SAN LUIS REY.] + +[Illustration: SIDE OF MISSION SAN LUIS REY.] + +[Illustration: THE CAMPANILE AT PALA.] + +The altar and its recess are most interesting, the rear wall of the +former being decorated in classic design. + +This chapel is of the third order of St. Francis, the founder of the +Franciscan Order. In the oval space over the arch which spans the +entrance to the altar are the "arms" of the third order, consisting of +the Cross and the five wounds (the stigmata) of Christ, which were +conferred upon St. Francis as a special sign of divine favor. + +Father Wallischeck is now (1913) arranging for the complete restoration +of this beautiful little chapel and appeals for funds to aid in +the work. + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII + +SANTA INES + +"Beautiful for situation" was the spot selected for the only Mission +founded during the first decade of the nineteenth century,--Santa Ines. + +Governor Borica, who called California "the most peaceful and quiet +country on earth," and under whose orders Padre Lasuen had established +the five Missions of 1796-1797, had himself made explorations in the +scenic mountainous regions of the coast, and recommended the location +afterwards determined upon, called by the Indians _Alajulapu_, meaning +_rincon_, or corner. + +The native population was reported to number over a thousand, and the +fact that they were frequently engaged in petty hostilities among +themselves rendered it necessary to employ unusual care in initiating +the new enterprise. Presidente Tapis therefore asked the governor for a +larger guard than was generally assigned for protecting the Missions, +and a sergeant and nine men were ordered for that purpose. + +The distance from Santa Barbara was about thirty-five miles, over a +rough road, hardly more than a trail, winding in and out among the +foothills, and gradually climbing up into the mountains in the midst of +most charming and romantic scenery. The quaint procession, consisting of +Padre Presidente Tapis and three other priests, Commandant Carrillo, and +the soldiers, and a large number of neophytes from Santa Barbara, slowly +marched over this mountainous road, into the woody recesses where +nestled the future home of the Mission of Santa Ines, and where the +usual ceremonies of foundation took place September 17, 1804. Padres +Calzada, Gutierrez, and Cipres assisted Presidente Tapis, and the two +former remained as the missionaries in charge. + +The first result of the founding of this Mission was the immediate +baptism of twenty-seven children, a scene worthy of the canvas of a +genius, could any modern painter conceive of the real picture,--the +group of dusky little ones with somber, wondering eyes, and the +long-gowned priests, with the soldiers on guard and the watchful Indians +in native costume in the background,--all in the temple of +nature's creating. + +The first church erected was not elaborate, but it was roofed with +tiles, and was ample in size for all needful purposes. In 1812 an +earthquake caused a partial collapse of this structure. The corner of +the church fell, roofs were ruined, walls cracked, and many buildings +near the Mission were destroyed. This was a serious calamity, but the +padres never seemed daunted by adverse circumstances. They held the +usual services in a granary, temporarily, and in 1817 completed the +building of a new church constructed of brick and adobe, which still +remains. In 1829 the Mission property was said to resemble that at Santa +Barbara. On one side were gardens and orchards, on the other houses and +Indian huts, and in front was a large enclosure, built of brick and used +for bathing and washing purposes. + +When Governor Chico came up to assume his office in 1835 he claimed to +have been insulted by a poor reception from Padre Jimeno at Santa Ines. +The padre said he had had no notice of the governor's coming, and +therefore did the best he could. But Presidente Duran took the bold +position of informing the governor, in reply to a query, that the +government had no claim whatever upon the hospitality of unsecularized +Missions. Chico reported the whole matter to the assembly, who sided +with the governor, rebuked the presidente and the padres, and confirmed +an order issued for the immediate secularization of Santa Ines and San +Buenaventura (Duran's own Mission). J.M. Ramirez was appointed +comisionado at Santa Ines. At this time the Mission was prosperous. The +inventory showed property valued at $46,186, besides the church and its +equipment. The general statistics from the foundation, 1804 to 1834, +show 1372 baptisms, 409 marriages, and 1271 deaths. The largest number +of cattle was 7300 in 1831, 800 horses in 1816, and 6000 sheep in 1821. +After secularization horses were taken for the troops, and while, for a +time, the cattle increased, it was not long before decline set in. + +In 1843 the management of the Mission was restored to the friars, but +the former conditions of prosperity had passed away never to return. Two +years later the estate was rented for $580 per year, and was finally +sold in 1846 for $1700, although in later times the title was declared +invalid. In the meantime an ecclesiastical college was opened at Santa +Ines in 1844. A grant of land had been obtained from the government, and +an assignment of $500 per year to the seminary on the condition that no +Californian in search of a higher education should ever be excluded from +its doors; but the project met with only a temporary success, and was +abandoned after a brief existence of six years. + +In 1844 Presidente Duran reported 264 neophytes at Santa Ines, with +sufficient resources for their support. When Pico's order of 1845 was +issued, the Mission was valued at $20,288. This did not include the +church, the curate's house or rooms, and the rooms needed for the +court-house. This inventory was taken without the co-operation of the +padre, who refused to sign it. He--the padre--remained in charge until +1850, when the Mission was most probably abandoned. + +At Santa Ines there were several workers in leather and silver whose +reputation still remains. In various parts of the State are specimens of +the saddles they made and carved and then inlaid in silver that are +worthy a place in any noteworthy collection of artistic work. + +Only ten arches remain at Santa Ines of the long line of corridor arches +that once graced this building. In the distance is a pillar of one still +standing alone. Between it and the last of the ten, eight others used to +be, and beyond it there are the clear traces of three or four more. + +The church floor is of red tiles. All the window arches are plain +semicircles. Plain, rounded, heavy mouldings about three feet from the +floor, and the same distance from the ceiling, extend around the inside +of the church, making a simple and effective structural ornament. + +The original altar is not now used. It is hidden behind the more +pretentious modern one. It is of cement, or plastered adobe, built out, +like a huge statue bracket, from the rear wall. The old tabernacle, +ornate and florid, is still in use, though showing its century of +service. There are also several interesting candlesticks, two of which +are pictured in the chapter on woodwork. + +Almost opposite the church entrance is a large reservoir, built of +brick, twenty-one feet long and eight feet wide. It is at the bottom of +a walled-in pit, with a sloping entrance to the reservoir proper, walls +and slope being of burnt brick. This "sunk enclosure" is about sixty +feet long and thirty feet across at the lower end, and about six feet +below the level to the edge of the reservoir. Connected with this by +a cement pipe or tunnel laid underground, over 660 feet long, is another +reservoir over forty feet long, and eight feet wide, and nearly six feet +deep. This was the reservoir which supplied the Indian village with +water. The upper reservoir was for the use of the padres and also for +bathing purposes. + +[Illustration: MISSION SANTA INES.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN RAFAEL ARCANGEL. From an old painting.] + +[Illustration: MISSION SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO, AT SONOMA.] + +The water supply was brought from the mountains several miles distant, +flumed where necessary, and then conveyed underground in cement pipes +made and laid by the Indians under the direction of the padres. The +water-right is now lost to the Mission, being owned by private parties. + +The earthquake of 1906 caused considerable damage at Santa Ines, and it +has not yet been completely repaired, funds for the purpose not having +been forthcoming. + + + +CHAPTER XXIX + +SAN RAFAEL, ARCANGEL + +The Mission of the Archangel, San Rafael, was founded to give a health +resort to a number of neophytes who were sick in San Francisco. The +native name for the site was _Nanaguani_. The date of founding was +December 14, 1817. There were about 140 neophytes transferred at first, +and by the end of 1820 the number had increased to 590. In 1818 a +composite building, including church, priest's house, and all the +apartments required, was erected. It was of adobe, 87 feet long, 42 feet +wide, and 18 feet high, and had a corridor of tules. In 1818, when +Presidente Payeras visited the Mission, he was not very pleased with the +site, and after making a somewhat careful survey of the country around +recommended several other sites as preferable. + +In 1824 a determined effort was made to capture a renegade neophyte of +San Francisco, a native of the San Rafael region, named Pomponio, who +for several years had terrorized the country at intervals as far south +as Santa Cruz. He would rob, outrage, and murder, confining most of his +attacks, however, upon the Indians. He had slain one soldier, Manuel +Varela, and therefore a determined effort was made for his capture. +Lieutenant Martinez, a corporal, and two men found him in the Canyada de +Novato, above San Rafael. He was sent to Monterey, tried by a +court-martial on the 6th of February, and finally shot the following +September. This same Martinez also had some conflicts about the same +time with chieftains of hostile tribes, north of the bay, named Marin +and Quentin, both of whom have left names, one to a county and the other +to a point on the bay. + +When San Francisco Solano was founded, 92 neophytes were sent there from +San Rafael. In spite of this, the population of San Rafael increased +until it numbered 1140 in 1828. + +In 1824 Kotzebue visited the Mission and spoke enthusiastically of its +natural advantages, though he made but brief reference to its +improvements. On his way to Sonoma, Duhaut-Cilly did not deem it of +sufficient importance to more than mention. Yet it was a position of +great importance. Governor Echeandia became alarmed about the activity +of the Russians at Fort Ross, and accused them of bad faith, claiming +that they enticed neophytes away from San Rafael, etc. The Mexican +government, in replying to his fears, urged the foundation of a fort, +but nothing was done, owing to the political complications at the time, +which made no man's tenure of office certain. + +The secularization decree ordered that San Rafael should become a +parish of the first class, which class paid its curates $1500, as +against $1000 to those of the second class. + +In 1837 it was reported that the Indians were not using their liberty +well; so, owing to the political troubles at the time, General Vallejo +was authorized to collect everything and care for it under a promise to +redistribute when conditions were better. In 1840 the Indians insisted +upon this promise being kept, and in spite of the governor's opposition +Vallejo succeeded in obtaining an order for the distribution of the +live-stock. + +In 1845 Pico's order, demanding the return within one month of the +Indians to the lands of San Rafael or they would be sold, was published, +and the inventory taken thereupon showed a value of $17,000 in +buildings, lands, and live-stock. In 1846 the sale was made to Antonio +Sunol and A.M. Pico for $8000. The purchasers did not obtain possession, +and their title was afterwards declared invalid. + +In the distribution of the Mission stock Vallejo reserved a small band +of horses for the purposes of national defense, and it was this band +that was seized by the "Bear Flag" revolutionists at the opening of +hostilities between the Americans and Mexicans. This act was followed +almost immediately by the joining of the insurgents by Fremont, and the +latter's marching to meet the Mexican forces, which were supposed to be +at San Rafael. No force, however, was found there, so Fremont took +possession of the Mission on June 26, 1846, and remained there for about +a week, leaving there to chase up Torre, who had gone to join Castro. +When he finally left the region he took with him a number of cattle and +horses, went to Sonoma, and on the 5th of July assumed active command of +all the insurgent forces, which ultimated in the conquest of the State. + +From this time the ex-Mission had no history. The buildings doubtless +suffered much from Fremont's occupancy, and never being very elaborate, +easily fell a prey to the elements. + +There is not a remnant of them now left, and the site is occupied by a +modern, hideous, wooden building, used as an armory. + + + +CHAPTER XXX + +SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO + +Fifty-four years after the founding of the first Franciscan Mission in +California, the site was chosen for the twenty-first and last, San +Francisco Solano. This Mission was established at Sonoma under +conditions already narrated. The first ceremonies took place July 4, +1823, and nine months later the Mission church was dedicated. This +structure was built of boards, but by the end of 1824 a large building +had been completed, made of adobe with tiled roof and corridor, also a +granary and eight houses for the use of the padres and soldiers. Thus in +a year and a half from the time the location was selected the necessary +Mission buildings had been erected, and a large number of fruit trees +and vines were already growing. The neophytes numbered 693, but many of +these were sent from San Francisco, San Jose and San Rafael. The Indians +at this Mission represented thirty-five different tribes, according to +the record, yet they worked together harmoniously, and in 1830 their +possessions included more than 8000 cattle, sheep, and horses. Their +crops averaged nearly 2000 bushels of grain per year. + +The number of baptisms recorded during the twelve years before +secularization was over 1300. Ten years later only about 200 Indians +were left in that vicinity. + +In 1834 the Mission was secularized by M.G. Vallejo, who appointed +Ortega as majordomo. Vallejo quarreled with Padre Quijas, who at once +left and went to reside at San Rafael. The movable property was +distributed to the Indians, and they were allowed to live on their old +rancherias, though there is no record that they were formally allotted +to them. By and by the gentile Indians so harassed the Mission Indians +that the latter placed all their stock under the charge of General +Vallejo, asking him to care for it on their behalf. The herds increased +under his control, the Indians had implicit confidence in him, and he +seems to have acted fairly and honestly by them. + +The pueblo of Sonoma was organized as a part of the secularization of +San Francisco Solano, and also to afford homes for the colonists brought +to the country by Hijar and Padres. In this same year the soldiers of +the presidio of San Francisco de Asis were transferred to Sonoma, to act +as a protection of the frontier, to overawe the Russians, and check the +incoming of Americans. This meant the virtual abandonment of the post by +the shores of the bay. Vallejo supported the presidial company, mainly +at his own expense, and made friends with the native chief, Solano, who +aided him materially in keeping the Indians peaceful. + +The general statistics of the Mission for the eleven years of its +existence, 1823-34, are as follows: baptisms 1315, marriages 278, deaths +651. The largest population was 996 in 1832. The largest number of +cattle was 4849 in 1833, 1148 horses and 7114 sheep in the same year. + +In 1845, when Pico's plan for selling and renting the Missions was +formulated, Solano was declared without value, the secularization having +been completely carried out, although there is an imperfect inventory of +buildings, utensils, and church property. It was ignored in the final +order. Of the capture of Sonoma by the Bear Flag revolutionists and the +operations of Fremont, it is impossible here to treat. They are to be +found in every good history of California. + +In 1880 Bishop Alemany sold the Mission and grounds of San Francisco +Solano to a German named Schocken for $3000. With that money a modern +church was erected for the parish, which is still being used. For six +months after the sale divine services were still held in the old +Mission, and then Schocken used it as a place for storing wine and hay. +In September, 1903, it was sold to the Hon. W.R. Hearst for $5000. The +ground plot was 166 by 150 feet. It is said that the tower was built by +General Vallejo in 1835 or thereabouts. The deeds have been transferred +to the State of California and accepted by the Legislature. The +intention is to preserve the Mission as a valuable historic landmark. + + + +CHAPTER XXXI + +THE MISSION CHAPELS OR ASISTENCIAS + +The Mission padres were the first circuit riders or pastors. It is +generally supposed that the circuit rider is a device of the Methodist +church, but history clearly reveals that long prior to the time of the +sainted Wesley, and the denomination he founded, the padres were "riding +the circuit," or walking, visiting the various rancherias which had no +settled pastor. + +Where buildings for worship were erected at these places they were +called chapels, or asistencias. Some of these chapels still remain in +use and the ruins of others are to be seen. The Mission of San Gabriel +had four such chapels, viz., Los Angeles, Puente, San Antonio de Santa +Ana, and San Bernardino. Of the first and the last we have +considerable history. + +LOS ANGELES CHAPEL + +As I have elsewhere shown, it was the plan of the Spanish Crown not only +to Christianize and civilize the Indians of California, but also to +colonize the country. In accordance with this plan the pueblo of San +Jose was founded on the 29th of November, 1776. The second was that of +Los Angeles in 1781. Rivera was sent to secure colonists in Sonora and +Sinaloa for the new pueblo, and also for the establishments it was +intended to found on the channel of Santa Barbara. + +In due time colonists were secured, and a more mongrel lot it would be +hard to conceive: Indian, Spanish, Negro, Indian and Spanish, and Indian +and Negro bloods were represented, 42 souls in all. The blood which +makes the better Spanish classes in Los Angeles to-day so proud +represents those who came in much later. + +There was nothing accidental in the founding of any Spanish colony. +Everything was planned beforehand. The colonist obeyed orders as rigidly +executed as if they were military commands. According to +Professor Guinn: + + "The area of a pueblo, under Spanish rule, was four square + leagues, or about 17,770 acres. The pueblo lands were divided + into _solares_ (house lots), _suertes_[5] (fields for + planting), _dehesas_ (outside pasture lands), _ejidos_ + (commons), _propios_ (lands rented or leased), _realengas_ + (royal lands)." + +[5] _Suerte_. This is colloquial, it really means "chance" or +"haphazard." In other words, it was the piece of ground that fell to the +settler by "lot." + +On the arrival of the colonists in San Gabriel from Loreto on the 18th +of August, 1781, Governor Neve issued instructions for founding Los +Angeles on the 26th. The first requirement was to select a site for a +dam, to provide water for domestic and irrigation purposes. Then to +locate the plaza and the homes and fields of the colonists. Says +Professor Guinn: + + "The old plaza was a parallelogram too varas[6] in length by + 75 in breadth. It was laid out with its corners facing the + cardinal points of the compass, and with its streets running + at right angles to each of its four sides, so that no street + would be swept by the wind. Two streets, each 10 varas wide, + opened out on the longer sides, and three on each of the + shorter sides. Upon three sides of the plaza were the house + lots, 20 by 40 varas each, fronting on the square. One-half + the remaining side was reserved for a guard-house, a + town-house, and a public granary. Around the embryo town, a + few years later, was built an adobe wall--not so much, + perhaps, for protection from foreign invasion as from + domestic intrusion. It was easier to wall in the town than to + fence the cattle and goats that pastured outside." + +[6] A vara is the Spanish yard of 33 inches. + +The government supplied each colonist with a pair each of oxen, mules, +mares, sheep, goats, and cows, one calf, a burro, a horse, and the +branding-irons which distinguished his animals from those of the other +settlers. There were also certain tools furnished for the colony as +a whole. + +On the 14th of September of the same year the plaza was solemnly +dedicated. A father from the San Gabriel Mission recited mass, a +procession circled the plaza, bearing the cross, the standard of Spain, +and an image of "Our Lady," after which salvos of musketry were fired +and general rejoicings indulged in. Of course the plaza was blessed, and +we are even told that Governor Neve made a speech. + +As to when the first church was built in Los Angeles there seems to be +some doubt. In 1811 authority was gained for the erection of a new +chapel, but nowhere is there any account of a prior building. Doubtless +some temporary structure had been used. There was no regular priest +settled here, for in 1810 the citizens complained that the San Gabriel +padres did not pay enough attention to their sick. In August of 1814 the +corner-stone of the new chapel was laid by Padre Gil of San Gabriel, but +nothing more than laying the foundation was done for four years. Then +Governor Sola ordered that a higher site be chosen. The citizens +subscribed five hundred cattle towards the fund, and Prefect Payeras +made an appeal to the various friars which resulted in donations of +seven barrels of brandy, worth $575. With these funds the work was done, +Jose Antonio Ramirez being the architect, and his workers neophytes from +San Gabriel and San Luis Rey, who were paid a real (twelve and a half +cents) per day. Before 1821 the walls were raised to the window arches. +The citizens, however, showed so little interest in the matter that it +was not until Payeras made another appeal to his friars that _they_ +contributed enough to complete the work. Governor Sola gave a little, +and the citizens a trifle. It is interesting to note what the +contributions of the friars were. San Miguel offered 500 cattle, San +Luis Obispo 200 cattle, Santa Barbara a barrel of brandy, San Diego two +barrels of white wine, Purisima six mules and 200 cattle, San Fernando +one barrel brandy, San Gabriel two barrels brandy, San Buenaventura said +it would try to make up deficits or supply church furniture, etc. Thus +Payeras's zeal and the willingness of the Los Angelenos to pay for wine +and brandy, which they doubtless drank "to the success of the church," +completed the structure, and December 8, 1822, it was formally +dedicated. Auguste Wey writes: + + "The oldest church in Los Angeles is known in local American + parlance as 'The Plaza Church,' 'Our Lady,' 'Our Lady of + Angels,' 'Church of Our Lady,' 'Church of the Angels,' + 'Father Liebana's Church,' and 'The Adobe Church.' It is + formally the church of Nuestra Senora, Reina de los + Angeles--Our Lady, Queen of the Angels--from whom Los Angeles + gets its name." + +That is, the city gets its name from Our Lady, the Queen of the Angels, +not from the church, as the pueblo was named long before the church was +even suggested. + +The plaza was formally moved to its present site in 1835, May 23, when +the government was changed from that of a pueblo to a city. + +Concerning the name of the pueblo and river Rev. Joachin Adam, vicar +general of the diocese, in a paper read before the Historical Society of +Southern California several years ago, said: + + "The name Los Angeles is probably derived from the fact that + the expedition by land, in search of the harbor of Monterey, + passed through this place on the 2d of August, 1769, a day + when the Franciscan missionaries celebrate the feast of + Nuestra Senora de los Angeles--Our Lady of the Angels. This + expedition left San Diego July 14, 1769, and reached here on + the first of August, when they killed for the first time some + _berrendos_, or antelope. On the second, they saw a large + stream with much good land, which they called Porciuncula on + account of commencing on that day the jubilee called + Porciuncula, granted to St. Francis while praying in the + little church of Our Lady of the Angels, near Assisi, in + Italy, commonly called Della Porciuncula from a hamlet of + that name near by. This was the original name of the Los + Angeles River." + +The last two recorded burials within the walls of the Los Angeles chapel +are those of the young wife of Nathaniel M. Pryor, "buried on the +left-hand side facing the altar," and of Dona Eustaquia, mother of the +Dons Andres, Jesus, and Pio Pico, all intimately connected with the +history of the later days of Mexican rule. + + + +CHAPEL OF SAN BERNARDINO + +It must not be forgotten that one of the early methods of reaching +California was inland. Travelers came from Mexico, by way of Sonora, +then crossed the Colorado River and reached San Gabriel and Monterey in +the north, over practically the same route as that followed to-day by +the Southern Pacific Railway, viz., crossing the river at Yuma, over the +Colorado Desert, by way of the San Gorgonio Pass, and through the San +Bernardino and San Gabriel valleys. It was in 1774 that Captain Juan +Bautista de Anza, of the presidio of Tubac in Arizona, was detailed by +the Viceroy of New Spain to open this road. He made quite an expedition +of it,--240 men, women, and Indian scouts, and 1050 animals. They named +the San Gorgonio Pass the Puerto de San Carlos, and the San Bernardino +Valley the Valle de San Jose. Cucamonga they called the Arroyo de los +Osos (Bear Ravine or Gulch). + +As this road became frequented San Gabriel was the first stopping-place +where supplies could be obtained after crossing the desert. This was +soon found to be too far away, and for years it was desired that a +station nearer to the desert be established, but not until 1810 was the +decisive step taken. Then Padre Dumetz of San Gabriel, with a band of +soldiers and Indian neophytes, set out, early in May, to find a location +and establish such a station. They found a populous Indian rancheria, +in a region well watered and luxuriant, and which bore a name +significant of its desirability. The valley was _Guachama_, "the place +of abundance of food and water," and the Indians had the same name. A +station was established near the place now known as Bunker Hill, between +Urbita Springs and Colton, and a "capilla," built, dedicated to San +Bernardino, because it was on May 20, San Bernardino's feast-day, that +Padre Dumetz entered the valley. The trustworthiness of the Indians will +be understood when it is recalled that this chapel, station, and the +large quantity of supplies were left in their charge, under the command +of one of their number named Hipolito. Soon the station became known, +after this Indian, as Politana. + +The destruction of Politana in 1810 by savage and hostile Indians, aided +by earthquakes, was a source of great distress to the padres at San +Gabriel, and they longed to rebuild. But the success of the attack of +the unconverted Indians had reawakened the never long dormant predatory +instincts of the desert Indians, and, for several years, these made +frequent incursions into the valley, killing not only the whites, but +such Indians as seemed to prefer the new faith to the old. But in 1819 +the Guachamas sent a delegation to San Gabriel, requesting the padres to +come again, rebuild the Mission chapel, and re-establish the supply +station, and giving assurances of protection and good behavior. The +padres gladly acceded to the requests made, and in 1820 solemn chants +and earnest exhortations again resounded in the ears of the Guachamas in +a new and larger building of adobe erected some eight miles +from Politana. + +There are a few ruined walls still standing of the chapel of San +Bernardino at this time, and had it not been for the care recently +bestowed upon them, there would soon have been no remnant of this once +prosperous and useful asistencia of the Mission of San Gabriel. + + + +CHAPEL OF SAN MIGUEL + +In 1803 a chapel was built at a rancheria called by the Indians +_Mescaltitlan_, and the Spaniards San Miguel, six miles from Santa +Barbara. It was of adobes, twenty-seven by sixty-six feet. In 1807 +eighteen adobe dwellings were erected at the same place. + + + +CHAPEL OF SAN MIGUELITO + +One of the vistas of San Luis Obispo was a rancheria known as San +Miguelito, and here in 1809 the governor gave his approval that a chapel +should be erected. San Luis had several such vistas, and I am told that +the ruins of several chapels are still in existence in that region. + + + +CHAPEL AT SANTA ISABEL (SAN DIEGO) + +In 1816-19 the padres at San Diego urged the governor to give them +permission to erect a chapel at Santa Isabel, some forty miles away, +where two hundred baptized Indians were living. The governor did not +approve, however, and nothing was done until after 1820. By 1822 the +chapel was reported built, with several houses, a granary, and a +graveyard. The population had increased to 450, and these materially +aided San Diego in keeping the mountainous tribes, who were hostile, +in check. + +A recent article in a Southern California magazine thus describes the +ruins of the Mission of Santa Isabel: + + "Levelled by time, and washed by winter rains, the adobe + walls of the church have sunk into indistinguishable heaps of + earth which vaguely define the outlines of the ancient + edifice. The bells remain, hung no longer in a belfry, but on + a rude framework of logs. A tall cross, made of two saplings + nailed in shape, marks the consecrated spot. Beyond it rise + the walls of the brush building, _enramada_, woven of green + wattled boughs, which does duty for a church on Sundays and + on the rare occasions of a visit from the priest, who makes a + yearly pilgrimage to these outlying portions of his diocese. + On Sundays, the Captain of the tribe acts as lay reader and + recites the services. Then and on Saturday nights the bells + are rung. An Indian boy has the office of bell-ringer, and + crossing the ropes attached to the clappers, he skilfully + makes a solemn chime." + +The graveyard at Santa Isabel is neglected and forlorn, and yet bears +many evidences of the loving thoughtfulness of the loved ones who +remain behind. + +CHAPEL OF MESA GRANDE + +Eleven miles or so from Santa Isabel, up a steep road, is the Indian +village of Mesa Grande. The rancheria (as the old Spaniards would call +it) occupies a narrow valley and sweep of barren hillside. On a level +space at the foot of the mountain the little church is built. Santo +Domingo is the patron saint. + +A recent visitor thus describes it: + + "The church was built like that of Santa Isabel, of green + boughs, and the chancel was decorated with muslin draperies + and ornaments of paper and ribbon, in whose preparation a + faithful Indian woman had spent the greater part of five + days. The altar was furnished with drawn-work cloths, and in + a niche above it was a plaster image of Santo Domingo, one + hand holding a book, the other outstretched in benediction. + Upon the outstretched hand a rosary had been hung with + appropriate effect. Some mystic letters appeared in the + muslin that draped the ceiling, which, being interpreted, + proved to be the initials of the solitary member of the altar + guild, and of such of her family as she was pleased to + commemorate." + + + +CHAPEL OF SANTA MARGARITA (SAN LUIS OBISPO) + +One of the ranches of San Luis Obispo was that of Santa Margarita on the +north side of the Sierra Santa Lucia. As far as I know there is no +record of the date when the chapel was built, yet it was a most +interesting and important structure. + +In May, 1904, its identity was completely destroyed, its interior walls +being dynamited and removed and the whole structure roofed over to be +used as a barn. + +It originally consisted of a chapel about 40 feet long and 30 feet wide, +and eight rooms. The chapel was at the southwest end. The whole building +was 120 feet long and 20 feet wide. The walls were about three feet +thick, and built of large pieces of rough sandstone and red bricks, all +cemented strongly together with a white cement that is still hard and +tenacious. It is possible there was no _fachada_ to the chapel at the +southwest end, for a well-built elliptical arched doorway, on the +southeast side, most probably was the main entrance. + +It has long been believed that this was not the only Mission building at +Santa Margarita. Near by are three old adobe houses, all recently +renovated out of all resemblance to their original condition, and all +roofed with red Mission tiles. These were built in the early days. The +oldest Mexican inhabitants of the present-day Santa Margarita remember +them as a part of the Mission building. + +Here, then, is explanation enough for the assumption of a large Indian +population on this ranch, which led the neighboring padres to establish +a chapel for their Christianization and civilization. Undoubtedly in its +aboriginal days there was a large Indian population, for there were all +the essentials in abundance. Game of every kind--deer, antelope, +rabbits, squirrels, bear, ducks, geese, doves, and quail--yet abound; +also roots of every edible kind, and more acorns than in any other equal +area in the State. There is a never failing flow of mountain water and +innumerable springs, as well as a climate at once warm and yet bracing, +for here on the northern slopes of the Santa Lucia, frost is +not uncommon. + +CHAPEL OF SANTA ISABEL (SAN MIGUEL) + +I have elsewhere referred to the water supply of Santa Isabel as being +used for irrigation connected with San Miguel Mission. There is every +evidence that a large rancheria existed at Santa Isabel, and that for +many years it was one of the valued rancheros of the Mission. Below the +Hot Springs the remains of a large dam still exist, which we now know +was built by the padres for irrigation purposes. A large tract of land +below was watered by it, and we have a number of reports of the annual +yield of grain, showing great fertility and productivity. Near the +present ranch house at Santa Isabel are large adobe ruins, evidently +used as a house for the majordomo and for the padre on his regular +visitations to the rancheria. One of the larger rooms was doubtless a +chapel where mass was said for the neophytes who cultivated the soil in +this region. + +CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA + +The chapel at Pala is perhaps the best known of all the asistencias on +account of its picturesque campanile. It was built by the indefatigable +Padre Peyri, in 1816, and is about twenty miles from San Luis Rey, to +which it belonged. Within a year or two, by means of a resident padre, +over a thousand converts were gathered, reciting their prayers and +tilling the soil. A few buildings, beside the chapel, were erected, and +the community, far removed from all political strife, must have been +happy and contented in its mountain-valley home. The chapel is a long, +narrow adobe structure, 144 by 27 feet, roofed with red tiles. The walls +within were decorated in the primitive and singular fashion found at +others of the Missions, and upon the altar were several statues which +the Indians valued highly. + +Pala is made peculiarly interesting as the present home of the evicted +Palatingwa (Hot Springs) Indians of Warner's Ranch. Here these +wretchedly treated "wards of the nation" are now struggling with the +problem of life, with the fact ever before them, when they think, (as +they often do, for several of them called my attention to the fact) that +the former Indian population of Pala has totally disappeared. At the +time of the secularization of San Luis Rey, Pala suffered with the rest; +and when the Americans finally took possession it was abandoned to the +tender mercies of the straying, seeking, searching, devouring +homesteader. In due time it was "home-steaded" The chapel and graveyard +were ultimately deeded back; and when the Landmarks Club took hold it +was agreed that the ruins "revert to their proper ownership, +the church." + +[Illustration: CAMPANILE AND CHAPEL, SAN ANTONIO DE PALA.] + +[Illustration: ANOTHER VIEW OF THE CAMPANILE AND CHAPEL, SAN ANTONIO DE +PALA.] + +[Illustration: MAIN DOORWAY AT SANTA MARGARITA CHAPEL.] + +Though all the original Indians were ousted long ago from their lands at +Pala, those who lived anywhere within a dozen or a score miles still +took great interest in the old buildings, the decorations of the church, +and the statues of the saints. Whenever a priest came and held services +a goodly congregation assembled, for a number of Mexicans, as well as +Indians, live in the neighborhood. + +That they loved the dear old asistencia was manifested by Americans, +Mexicans, and Indians alike, for when the Landmarks Club visited it in +December, 1901, and asked for assistance to put it in order, help was +immediately volunteered to the extent of $217, if the work were paid for +at the rate of $1.75 per day. + +With a desire to promote the good feeling aimed at in recent dealings +with the evicted Indians of Warner's Ranch, now located at Pala, the +bishop of the diocese sent them a priest. He, however, was of an alien +race, and unfamiliar with either the history of the chapel, its +memories, or the feelings of the Indians; and to their intense +indignation, they found that without consulting them, or his own +superiors, he had destroyed nearly all the interior decorations by +covering them with a coating of whitewash. + +The building now is in fairly good condition and the Indians have a +pastor who holds regular services for them. In the main they express +themselves as highly contented with their present condition, and on a +visit paid them in April, 1913, I found them happy and prosperous. + + + +CHAPTER XXXII + +THE PRESENT CONDITION OF THE MISSION INDIANS + +The disastrous effect of the order of secularization upon the Indians, +as well as the Missions themselves, has been referred to in a special +chapter. Here I wish to give, in brief, a clearer idea of the present +condition of the Indians than was there possible. In the years 1833-1837 +secularization actually was accomplished. The knowledge that it was +coming had already done much injury. The Pious Fund, which then amounted +to upwards of a half-million dollars, was confiscated by the Mexican +government. The officials said it was merely "borrowed." This +practically left the Indians to their own resources. A certain amount of +land and stock were to be given to each head of a family, and tools were +to be provided. Owing to the long distance between California and the +City of Mexico, there was much confusion as to how the changes should be +brought about. There have been many charges made, alleging that the +padres wilfully allowed the Mission property to go to ruin, when they +were deprived of its control. This ruin would better be attributed to +the general demoralization of the times than to any definite policy. +For it must be remembered that the political conditions of Mexico at +that time were most unsettled. None knew what a day or an hour might +bring forth. All was confusion, uncertainty, irresponsibility. And in +the _melee_ Mission property and Mission Indians suffered. + +What was to become of the Indians? Imagine the father of a family--that +had no mother--suddenly snatched away, and all the property, garden, +granary, mill, storehouse, orchards, cattle, placed in other hands. What +would the children do? + +So now the Indians, like bereft children, knew not what to do, and, +naturally, they did what our own children would do. Led by want and +hunger, some sought and found work and food, and others, alas, became +thieves. The Mission establishment was the organized institution that +had cared for them, and had provided the work that supported them. No +longer able to go and live "wildly" as of old, they were driven to evil +methods by necessity unless the new government directed their energies +into right channels. Few attempted to do this; hence the results that +were foreseen by the padres followed. + +July 7, 1846, saw the Mexican flag in California hauled down, and the +Stars and Stripes raised in its place; but as far as the Indian was +concerned, the change was for the worse instead of the better. Indeed, +it may truthfully be said that the policies of the three governments, +Spanish, Mexican, and American, have shown three distinct phases, and +that the last is by far the worst. + +Our treatment of these Indians reads like a hideous nightmare. +Absolutely no forceful and effective protest seems to have been made +against the indescribable wrongs perpetrated. The gold discoveries of +1849 brought into the country a class of adventurers, gamblers, liquor +sellers, and camp followers of the vilest description. The Indians +became helpless victims in the hands of these infamous wretches, and +even the authorities aided to make these Indians "good." + +Bartlett, who visited the country in 1850 to 1853, tells of meeting with +an old Indian at San Luis Rey who spoke glowingly of the good times they +had when the padres were there, but "now," he said, "they were scattered +about, he knew not where, without a home or protectors, and were in a +miserable, starving condition." Of the San Francisco Indians he says: + + "They are a miserable, squalid-looking set, squatting or + lying about the corners of the streets, without occupation. + They have now no means of obtaining a living, as their lands + are all taken from them; and the Missions for which they + labored, and which provided after a sort for many thousands + of them, are abolished. No care seems to be taken of them by + the Americans; on the contrary, the effort seems to be to + exterminate them as soon as possible." + +According to the most conservative estimates there were over thirty +thousand Indians under the control of the Missions at the time of +secularization in 1833. To-day, how many are there? I have spent long +days in the different Mission localities, arduously searching for +Indians, but oftentimes only to fail of my purpose. In and about San +Francisco, there is not one to be found. At San Carlos Borromeo, in both +Monterey and the Carmelo Valley, except for a few half-breeds, no one of +Indian blood can be discovered. It is the same at San Miguel, San Luis +Obispo, and Santa Barbara. At Pala, that romantic chapel, where once the +visiting priest from San Luis Rey found a congregation of several +hundreds awaiting his ministrations, the land was recently purchased +from white men, by the United States Indian Commission, as a new home +for the evicted Palatingwa Indians of Warner's Ranch. These latter +Indians, in recent interviews with me, have pertinently asked: "Where +did the white men get this land, so they could sell it to the government +for us? Indians lived here many centuries before a white man had ever +seen the 'land of the sundown sea.' When the 'long-gowns' first came +here, there were many Indians at Pala. Now they are all gone. Where? And +how do we know that before long we shall not be driven out, and be gone, +as they were driven out and are gone?" + +At San Luis Rey and San Diego, there are a few scattered families, but +very few, and most of these have fled far back into the desert, or to +the high mountains, as far as possible out of reach of the civilization +that demoralizes and exterminates them. + +A few scattered remnants are all that remain. + +Let us seek for the real reason why. + +The system of the padres was patriarchal, paternal. Certain it is that +the Indians were largely treated as if they were children. No one +questions or denies this statement. Few question that the Indians were +happy under this system, and all will concede that they made wonderful +progress in the so-called arts of civilization. From crude savagery they +were lifted by the training of the fathers into usefulness and +productiveness. They retained their health, vigor, and virility. They +were, by necessity perhaps, but still undeniably, chaste, virtuous, +temperate, honest, and reasonably truthful. They were good fathers and +mothers, obedient sons and daughters, amenable to authority, and +respectful to the counsels of old age. + +All this and more may unreservedly be said for the Indians while they +were under the control of the fathers. That there were occasionally +individual cases of harsh treatment is possible. The most loving and +indulgent parents are now and again ill-tempered, fretful, or nervous. +The fathers were men subject to all the limitations of other men. +Granting these limitations and making due allowance for human +imperfection, the rule of the fathers must still be admired for its +wisdom and commended for its immediate results. + +Now comes the order of secularization, and a little later the domination +of the Americans. Those opposed to the control of the fathers are to set +the Indians free. They are to be "removed from under the irksome +restraint of cold-blooded priests who have held them in bondage not far +removed from slavery"!! They are to have unrestrained liberty, the +broadest and fullest intercourse with the great American people, the +white, Caucasian American, not the dark-skinned Mexican!!! + +What was the result. Let an eye-witness testify: + + "These thousands of Indians had been held in the most rigid + discipline by the Mission Fathers, and after their + emancipation by the Supreme Government of Mexico, had been + reasonably well governed by the local authorities, who found + in them indispensable auxiliaries as farmers and harvesters, + hewers of wood and drawers of water, and besides, the best + horse-breakers and herders in the world, necessary to the + management of the great herds of the country. These Indians + were Christians, docile even to servility, and excellent + laborers. Then came the Americans, followed soon after by the + discovery of, and the wild rush for, gold, and the relaxation + for the time being of a healthy administration of the laws. + The ruin of this once happy and useful people commenced. The + cultivators of vineyards began to pay their Indian _peons_ + with _aguardiente_, a real 'firewater.' The consequence was + that on receiving their wages on Saturday evening, the + laborers habitually met in great gatherings and passed the + night in gambling, drunkenness, and debauchery. On Sunday the + streets were crowded from morning until night with + Indians,--males and females of all ages, from the girl of ten + or twelve to the old man and woman of seventy or eighty. + + "By four o'clock on Sunday afternoon, Los Angeles Street, + from Commercial to Nigger Alley, Aliso Street from Los + Angeles to Alameda, and Nigger Alley, were crowded with a + mass of drunken Indians, yelling and fighting: men and women, + boys and girls using tooth and nail, and frequently knives, + but always in a manner to strike the spectator with horror. + + "At sundown, the pompous marshal, with his Indian special + deputies, who had been confined in jail all day to keep them + sober, would drive and drag the combatants to a great corral + in the rear of the Downey Block, where they slept away their + intoxication. The following morning they would be exposed for + sale, as slaves for the week. Los Angeles had its slave-mart + as well as New Orleans and Constantinople,--only the slaves + at Los Angeles were sold fifty-two times a year, as long as + they lived, a period which did not generally exceed one, two, + or three years under the new dispensation. They were sold for + a week, and bought up by vineyard men and others at prices + ranging from one to three dollars, one-third of which was to + be paid to the _peon_ at the end of the week, which debt, due + for well-performed labor, was invariably paid in + _aguardiente,_ and the Indian made happy, until the following + Monday morning, he having passed through another Saturday + night and Sunday's saturnalia of debauchery and bestiality. + Those thousands of honest, useful people were absolutely + destroyed in this way." + +In reference to these statements of the sale of the Indians as slaves, +it should be noted that the act was done under the cover of the law. The +Indian was "fined" a certain sum for his drunkenness, and was then +turned over to the tender mercies of the employer, who paid the fine. +Thus "justice" was perverted to the vile ends of the conscienceless +scoundrels who posed as "officers of the law." + +Charles Warren Stoddard, one of California's sweetest poets, realized to +the full the mercenary treatment the Missions and the Indians had +received, and one of the latest and also most powerful poems he ever +wrote, "The Bells of San Gabriel," deals with this spoliation as a +theme. The poem first appeared in _Sunset Magazine, the Pacific +Monthly,_ and with the kind consent of the editor I give the +last stanza. + + "Where are they now, O tower! + The locusts and wild honey? + Where is the sacred dower + That the Bride of Christ was given? + Gone to the wielders of power, + The misers and minters of money; + Gone for the greed that is their creed-- + And these in the land have thriven. + What then wert thou, and what art now, + And wherefore hast thou striven? + + REFRAIN + + And every note of every bell + Sang Gabriel! rang Gabriel! + In the tower that is left the tale to tell + Of Gabriel, the Archangel." + +To-day, the total Indian population of Southern California is reported +as between two and three thousand. It is not increasing, and it is good +for the race that it is not. Until the incumbency by W.A. Jones of the +Indian Commissionership in Washington, there seems to have been little +or no attempt at effective protection of the Indians against the land +and other thefts of the whites. The facts are succinctly and powerfully +stated by Helen Hunt Jackson in her report to the government, and in her +_Glimpses of California and the Missions_. The indictment of churches, +citizens, and the general government, for their crime of supineness in +allowing our acknowledged wards to be seduced, cheated, and corrupted, +should be read by every honest American; even though it make his blood +seethe with indignation and his nerves quiver with shame. + +In my larger work on this subject I published a table from the report of +the agent for the "Mission-Tule" Consolidated Agency, which is dated +September 25, 1903. + +This is the official report of an agent whom not even his best friends +acknowledge as being over fond of his Indian charges, or likely to be +sentimental in his dealings with them. What does this report state? Of +twenty-eight "reservations"--and some of these include several Indian +villages--it announces that the lands of eight are yet "not patented." +In other words, that the Indians are living upon them "on sufferance." +Therefore, if any citizen of the United States, possessed of sufficient +political power, so desired, the lands could be restored to the public +domain. Then, not even the United States Supreme Court could hold them +for the future use and benefit of the Indians. + +On five of these reservations the land is "desert," and in two cases, +"subject to intense heat" (it might be said, to 150 degrees, and even +higher in the middle of summer); in one case there is "little water for +irrigation." + +In four cases it is "poor land," with "no water," and in another +instance there are "worthless, dry hills;" in still another the soil is +"almost worthless for lack of water!" + +In one of the desert cases, where there are five villages, the +government has supplied "water in abundance for irrigation and domestic +use, from artesian wells." Yet the land is not patented, and the Indians +are helpless, if evicted by resolute men. + +At Cahuilla, with a population of one hundred fifty-five, the report +says, "mountain valley; stock land and little water. Not patented." + +At Santa Isabel, including Volcan, with a population of two hundred +eighty-four, the reservation of twenty-nine thousand eight hundred +forty-four acres is patented, but the report says it is "mountainous; +stock land; no water." + +At San Jacinto, with a population of one hundred forty-three, the two +thousand nine hundred sixty acres are "mostly poor; very little water, +and not patented." + +San Manuel, with thirty-eight persons, has a patent for six hundred +forty acres of "worthless, dry hills." + +Temecula, with one hundred eighty-one persons, has had allotted to its +members three thousand three hundred sixty acres, which area, however, +is "almost worthless for lack of water." + +Let us reflect upon these things! The poor Indian is exiled and expelled +from the lands of his ancestors to worthless hills, sandy desert, +grazing lands, mostly poor and mountainous land, while our powerful +government stands by and professes its helplessness to prevent the evil. +These discouraging facts are enough to make the just and good men who +once guided the republic rise from their graves. Is there a remnant of +honor, justice, or integrity, left among our politicians? + +There is one thing this government should have done, could have done, +and might have done, and it is to its discredit and disgrace that it did +not do it; that is, when the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo transferred the +Indians from the domination of Mexico to that of the United States, +this government "of, for, and by" the people, should have recognized the +helplessness of its wards and not passed a law of which they could not +by any possibility know, requiring them to file on their lands, but it +should have appointed a competent guardian of their moral and legal +rights, taking it for granted that _occupancy of the lands of their +forefathers would give them a legal title which would hold forever +against all comers_. + +In all the Spanish occupation of California it is doubtful whether one +case ever occurred where an Indian was driven off his land. + +In rendering a decision on the Warner's Ranch Case the United States +Supreme Court had an opportunity offered it, once for all to settle the +status of all American Indians. Had it familiarized itself with the laws +of Spain, under which all Spanish grants were made, it would have found +that the Indian was always considered first and foremost in all grants +of lands made. He must be protected in his right; it was inalienable. He +was helpless, and therefore the officers of the Crown were made +responsible for his protection. If subordinate officers failed, then the +more urgent the duty of superior officers. Therefore, even had a grant +been made of Warner's Ranch in which the grantor purposely left out the +recognition of the rights of the Indians, the highest Spanish courts +would not have tolerated any such abuse of power. This was an axiom of +Spanish rule, shown by a hundred, a thousand precedents. Hence it +should have been recognized by the United States Supreme Court. It is +good law, but better, it is good sense and common justice, and this is +especially good when it protects the helpless and weak from the powerful +and strong. + +In our dealings with the Indians in our school system, we are making the +mistake of being in too great a hurry. A race of aborigines is not +raised into civilization in a night. It will be well if it is done in +two or three generations. + +Contrast our method with that followed by the padres. Is there any +comparison? Yes! To our shame and disgrace. The padres kept fathers and +mothers and children together, at least to a reasonable degree. Where +there were families they lived--as a rule--in their own homes near the +Missions. Thus there was no division of families. On the other hand, we +have wilfully and deliberately, though perhaps without _malice +aforethought_ (although the effect has been exactly the same as if we +had had malice), separated children from their parents and sent them a +hundred, several hundred, often two or three _thousand_ miles away from +home, there to receive an education often entirely inappropriate and +incompetent to meet their needs. And even this sending has not always +been honorably done. _Vide_ the United States Indian Commissioner's +report for 1900. He says: + + "These pupils are gathered from the cabin, the wickiup, and + the tepee. _Partly by cajolery and partly by threats; partly + by bribery and partly by fraud; partly by persuasion and + partly by force_, they are induced to leave their homes and + their kindred to enter these schools and take upon themselves + the outward semblance of civilized life. They are chosen not + on account of any particular merit of their own, not by + reason of mental fitness, but solely because they have Indian + blood in their veins. Without regard to their worldly + condition; without any previous training; without any + preparation whatever, they are transported to the + schools--sometimes thousands of miles away--without the + slightest expense or trouble to themselves or their people. + + "The Indian youth finds himself at once, as if by magic, + translated from a state of poverty to one of affluence. He is + well fed and clothed and lodged. Books and all the + accessories of learning are given him and teachers provided + to instruct him. He is educated in the industrial arts on the + one hand, and not only in the rudiments but in the liberal + arts on the other. Beyond the three r's he is instructed in + geography, grammar, and history; he is taught drawing, + algebra and geometry, music and astronomy and receives + lessons in physiology, botany, and entomology. Matrons wait + on him while he is well, and physicians and nurses attend him + when he is sick. A steam laundry does his washing, and the + latest modern appliances do his cooking. A library affords + him relaxation for his leisure hours, athletic sports and the + gymnasium furnish him exercise and recreation, while music + entertains him in the evening. He has hot and cold baths, and + steam heat and electric light, and all the modern + conveniences. All the necessities of life are given him, and + many of the luxuries. All of this without money and without + price, or the contribution of a single effort of his own or + of his people. His wants are all supplied almost for the + wish. The child of the wigwam becomes a modern Aladdin, who + has only to rub the government lamp to gratify his desires. + + "Here he remains until his education is finished, when he is + returned to his home--which by contrast must seem squalid + indeed--to the parents whom his education must make it + difficult to honor, and left to make his way against the + ignorance and bigotry of his tribe. Is it any wonder he + fails? Is it surprising if he lapses into barbarism? Not + having earned his education, it is not appreciated; having + made no sacrifice to obtain it, it is not valued. It is + looked upon as a right and not as a privilege; It is accepted + as a favor to the government and not to the recipient, and + the almost inevitable tendency is to encourage dependency, + foster pride, and create a spirit of arrogance and + selfishness. The testimony on this point of those closely + connected with the Indian employees of the service would, it + is believe, be interesting." + +So there the matter stands. Nothing of any great importance was really +done to help the Indians except the conferences at Mohonk, N.Y., until, +in 1902, the Sequoya League was organized, composed of many men and +women of national prominence, with the avowed purpose "to make better +Indians." In its first pronunciamento it declared: + + "The first struggle will be not to arouse sympathy but to + inform with slow patience and long wisdom the wide-spread + sympathy which already exists. We cannot take the Indians out + of the hands of the National Government; we cannot take the + National Government into our own hands. Therefore we must + work with the National Government in any large plan for the + betterment of Indian conditions. + + "The League means, in absolute good faith, not to fight, but + to assist the Indian Bureau. It means to give the money of + many and the time and brains and experience of more than a + few to honest assistance to the Bureau in doing the work for + which it has never had either enough money or enough + disinterested and expert assistance to do in the best way the + thing it and every American would like to see done." + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII + +MISSION ARCHITECTURE + +The question is often asked: Is there a Mission architecture? It is not +my intention here to discuss this question _in extenso_, but merely to +answer it by asking another and then making an affirmation. What is it +that constitutes a style in architecture? It cannot be that every +separate style must show different and distinct features from every +other style. It is not enough that in each style there are specific +features that, when combined, form an appropriate and harmonious +relationship that distinguishes it from every other combination. + +As a rule, the Missions were built in the form of a hollow square: the +church representing the _fachada_, with the priests' quarters and the +houses for the Indians forming the wings. These quarters were generally +colonnaded or cloistered, with a series of semicircular arches, and +roofed with red tiles. In the interior was the _patio_ or court, which +often contained a fountain and a garden. Upon this _patio_ opened all +the apartments: those of the fathers and of the majordomo, and the +guest-rooms, as well as the workshops, schoolrooms and storehouses. + +One of the strongest features of this style, and one that has had a wide +influence upon our modern architecture, is the stepped and curved sides +of the pediment. + +This is found at San Luis Rey, San Gabriel, San Antonio de Padua, Santa +Ines, and at other places. At San Luis Rey, it is the dominant feature +of the extension wall to the right of the _fachada_ of the +main building. + +On this San Luis pediment occurs a lantern which architects regard as +misplaced. Yet the fathers' motive for its presence is clear: that is, +the uplifting of the Sign whereby the Indians could alone find +salvation. + +Another means of uplifting the cross was found in the domes--practically +all of which were terraced--on the summits of which the lantern and +cross were placed. + +The careful observer may note another distinctive feature which was +seldom absent from the Mission domes. This is the series of steps at +each "corner" of the half-dome. Several eminent architects have told me +that the purpose of these steps is unknown, but to my simple lay mind it +is evident that they were placed there purposely by the clerical +architects to afford easy access to the surmounting cross; so that any +accident to this sacred symbol could be speedily remedied. It must be +remembered that the fathers were skilled in reading some phases of the +Indian mind. The knew that an accident to the Cross might work a +complete revolution in the minds of the superstitious Indians whose +conversion they sought. Hence common, practical sense demanded speedy +and easy access to the cross in case such emergency arose. + +It will also be noticed that throughout the whole chain of Missions the +walls, piers and buttresses are exceedingly solid and massive, reaching +even to six, eight, ten and more feet in thickness. This was undoubtedly +for the purpose of counteracting the shaking of the earthquakes, and the +effectiveness of this method of building is evidenced by the fact that +these old adobe structures still remain (even though some are in a +shattered condition, owing to their long want of care) while later and +more pretentious buildings have fallen. + +From these details, therefore, it is apparent that the chief features of +the Mission style of architecture are found to be as follows: + +1. Solid and massive walls, piers and buttresses. + +2. Arched corridors. + +3. Curved pedimented gables. + +4. Terraced towers, surmounted by a lantern. + +5. Pierced Campanile, either in tower or wall. + +6. Broad, unbroken, mural masses. + +7. Wide, overhanging eaves. + +8. Long, low, sloping roofs covered with red clay tiles. + +9. Patio, or inner court. + +In studying carefully the whole chain of Missions in California I found +that the only building that contains all these elements in harmonious +combination is that of San Luis Rey. Hence it alone is to be regarded as +the typical Mission structure, all the others failing in one or more +essentials. Santa Barbara is spoiled as a pure piece of Mission +architecture by the introduction of the Greek engaged columns in the +_fachada._ San Juan Capistrano undoubtedly was a pure "type" structure, +but in its present dilapidated condition it is almost impossible to +determine its exact appearance. + +San Antonio de Padua lacks the terraced towers and the pierced +campanile. San Gabriel and Santa Ines also have no towers, though both +have the pierced campanile. And so, on analysis, will all the Missions +be found to be defective in one or more points and therefore not +entitled to rank as "type" structures. + +As an offshoot from the Mission style has come the now world-famed and +popular California bungalow style, which appropriates to itself every +architectural style and no-style known. + +But California has also utilized to a remarkable degree in greater or +lesser purity the distinctive features of the Mission style, as I have +above enumerated them, in modern churches, hospitals, school-houses, +railway depots, warehouses, private residences, court-houses, +libraries, etc. + +[Illustration: HIGH SCHOOL, RIVERSIDE, CALIF. In modern Mission +architecture.] + +[Illustration: WALL DECORATIONS ON OLD MISSION CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE +PALA.] + +[Illustration: ARCHES AT GLENWOOD MISSION INN, RIVERSIDE, CALIF.] + +Of greater importance, however, than the development of what I regard +as a distinct style of architecture, is the development of the Mission +_spirit_ in architecture. Copying of past styles is never a proof of +originality or power. The same spirit that led to the creation of the +Mission Style,--the creative impulse, the originality, the vision, the +free, imaginative power, the virility that desires expression and +demands objective manifestation,--_this_ was fostered by the Franciscan +architects. This spirit is in the California atmosphere. A considerable +number of architects have caught it. Without slavish adherence to any +style, without copying anything, they are creating, expressing, even as +did the Franciscan padres, beautiful thoughts in stone, brick, wood and +reinforced concrete. In my _magnum opus_ on _Mission Architecture_, +which has long been in preparation, I hope clearly to present not only +the full details of what the padres accomplished, but what these later +creative artists, impelled by the same spirit, have given to the world. + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV + +THE GLENWOOD MISSION INN + +It is an incontrovertible fact that no great idea ever rests in its own +accomplishment. There are offshoots from it, ideas generated in other +minds entirely different from the original, yet dependent upon it for +life. For instance, which of the Mission fathers had the faintest +conception that in erecting their structures under the adverse +conditions then existing in California, they were practically +originating a new style of architecture; or that in making their crude +and simple chairs, benches and tables they were starting a revolution in +furniture making; or that in caring for and entertaining the few +travelers who happened to pass over _El Camino Real_ they were to +suggest a name, an architectural style, a method of management for the +most unique, and in many respects the most attractive hotel in the +world. For such indeed is the Glenwood Mission Inn, at Riverside, +California, at this present time. + +This inn is an honest and just tribute to the influence of the Old +Mission Fathers of California, as necessary to a complete understanding +of the far-reaching power of their work as is _El Camino Real_, the +Mission Play, or the Mission Style of architecture. After listening to +lectures on the work of the Franciscan padres and visiting the Missions +themselves, its owners, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Miller, humanely interested +in the welfare of the Mission Indians, collectors of the handicrafts of +these artistic aborigines, and students of what history tells us of +them, began, some twenty-five years ago, to realize that in the Mission +idea was an ideal for a modern hotel. Slowly the suggestion grew, and as +they discussed it with those whose knowledge enabled them to appreciate +it, the clearer was it formulated, until some ten or a dozen years ago +time seemed ripe for its realization. Arthur B. Benton, one of the +leading architects of Southern California, formulated plans, and the +hotel was erected. Its architecture conforms remarkably to that of the +Missions. On Seventh Street are the arched corridors of San Fernando, +San Juan Capistrano, San Miguel and San Antonio de Padua; inside is an +extensive patio and the automobiles stop close to the Campanile +reproducing the curved pediments of San Gabriel. On the Sixth Street +side is the _fachada_ of Santa Barbara Mission, and over the corner of +Sixth and Orange Streets is the imposing dome of San Carlos Borromeo in +the Carmelo Valley, flanked by buttresses of solid concrete, copies of +those of San Gabriel. + +The walls throughout are massive and unbroken by any other lines than +those of doors, windows and eaves, and the roofs are covered with red +tiles. In the Bell Tower a fine chime of bells is placed the playing of +which at noon and sunset recalls the matins and vespers of the +Mission days. + +Within the building, the old Mission atmosphere is wonderfully +preserved. In the Cloister Music Room the windows are of rare and +exquisite stained glass, showing St. Cecilia, the seats are cathedral +stalls of carved oak; the rafters are replicas of the wooden beams of +San Miguel, and the balcony is copied from the chancel rail of the same +Mission. Mission sconces, candelabra, paintings, banners, etc., add to +the effect, while the floor is made in squares of oak with mahogany +parquetry to remind the visitor of the square tile pavements found in +several of the old Missions. + +Daily--three times--music is called forth from the cathedral organ and +harp, and one may hear music of every type, from the solemn, stately +harmonies of the German choral, the crashing thunders of Bach's fugues +and Passion music, to the light oratorios, and duets and solos of +Pergolesi. + +By the side of the Music Room is the Cloistered Walk, divided into +sections, in each of which some distinctive epoch or feature of Mission +history is represented by mural paintings by modern artists of skill and +power. The floor is paved with tiles from one of the abandoned Missions. + +[Illustration: TOWER, FLYING BUTTRESSES, ETC., GLENWOOD MISSION INN, +RIVERSIDE.] + +[Illustration: ARCHES OVER THE SIDEWALK, GLENWOOD MISSION INN, +RIVERSIDE, CALIF.] + +[Illustration: RESIDENCE OF FRED MAIER, LOS ANGELES, CALIF.] + +[Illustration: WASHINGTON SCHOOL, VISALIA, CALIF.] + +Beyond is the Refectorio, or dining-room of an ancient Mission, +containing a collection of kitchen and dining utensils, some of them +from Moorish times. It has a stone ceiling, groined arches, and harvest +festival windows, which also represent varied characters, scenes, +industries and recreations connected with old Mission life. + +Three other special features of the Mission Inn are its wonderful +collection of crosses, of bells, and the Ford paintings. Any one of +these would grace the halls of a national collection of rare and +valuable antiques. Of the crosses it can truthfully be said that they +form the largest and most varied collection in the world, and the bells +have been the subject of several articles in leading magazines. + +The Ford paintings are a complete representation of all the Missions and +were made by Henry Chapman Ford, of Santa Barbara, mainly during the +years 1880-1881, though some of them are dated as early as 1875. + +The Glenwood Mission Inn proved so popular that in the summer and fall +of 1913 two new wings were added, surrounding a Spanish Court. This +Court has cloisters on two sides and cloistered galleries above, and is +covered with Spanish tile, as it is used for an open air dining-room. +One of the new wings, a room 100 feet long by 30 feet wide, and three +stories high, with coffered ceiling, is a Spanish Art Gallery. Here are +displayed old Spanish pictures and tapestries, many of which were +collected by Mr. Miller personally on his European and Mexican trips. + +At the same time the dining-room was enlarged by more than half its +former capacity, one side of it looking out through large French windows +on the cloisters and the court itself. This necessitated the enlargement +of the kitchen which is now thrown open to the observation of the guests +whenever desired. + +Taking it all in all, the Glenwood Mission Inn is not only a unique and +delightful hostelry, but a wonderful manifestation of the power of the +Franciscan friars to impress their spirit and life upon the commercial +age of a later and more material civilization. + + + +CHAPTER XXXV + +THE INTERIOR DECORATIONS OF THE MISSIONS + +We cannot to-day determine how the Franciscans of the Southwest +decorated the interiors of all their churches. Some of these buildings +have disappeared entirely, while others have been restored or renovated +beyond all semblance of their original condition. But enough are left to +give us a satisfactory idea of the labors of the fathers and of their +subject Indians. At the outset, it must be confessed that while the +fathers understood well the principles of architecture and created a +natural, spontaneous style, meeting all obstacles of time and place +which presented themselves, they showed little skill in matters of +interior decoration, possessing neither originality in design, the taste +which would have enabled them to become good copyists, nor yet the +slightest appreciation of color-harmony. In making this criticism, I do +not overlook the difficulties in the way of the missionaries, or the +insufficiency of materials at command. The priests were as much hampered +in this work as they were in that of building. But, in the one case, +they met with brilliant success; in the other they failed. The +decorations have, therefore, a distinctly pathetic quality. They show a +most earnest endeavor to beautify what to those who wrought them was the +very house of God. Here mystically dwelt the very body, blood, and +reality of the Object of Worship. Hence the desire to glorify the +dwelling-place of their God, and their own temple. The great distance in +this case between desire and performance is what makes the result +pathetic. Instead of trusting to themselves, or reverting to first +principles, as they did in architecture, the missionaries endeavored to +reproduce from memory the ornaments with which they had been familiar in +their early days in Spain. They remembered decorations in Catalonia, +Cantabria, Mallorca, Burgos, Valencia, and sought to imitate them; +having neither exactitude nor artistic qualities to fit them for their +task. No amount of kindliness can soften this decision. The results are +to be regretted; for I am satisfied that, had the fathers trusted to +themselves, or sought for simple nature-inspirations, they would have +given us decorations as admirable as their architecture. What I am +anxious to emphasize in this criticism is the principle involved. +Instead of originating or relying upon nature, they copied without +intelligence. The rude brick, adobe, or rubble work, left in the rough, +or plastered and whitewashed, would have been preferable to their +unmeaning patches of color. In the one, there would have been rugged +strength to admire; in the other there exists only pretense +to condemn. + +[Illustration: THE OLD ALTAR AT THE CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA. +Showing original wall decorations prized by the Indians.] + +[Illustration: ALTAR AND INTERIOR OF CHAPEL OF SAN ANTONIO DE PALA, +AFTER REMOVAL OF WALL DECORATIONS PRIZED BY INDIANS.] + +After this criticism was written I asked for the opinion of the learned +and courteous Father Zephyrin, the Franciscan historian. In reply the +following letter was received, which so clearly gives another side to +the matter that I am glad to quote it entire: + + "I do not think your criticism from an artistic view is too + severe; but it would have been more just to judge the + decorations as you would the efforts of amateurs, and then to + have made sure as to their authors. + + "You assume that they were produced by the padres themselves. + This is hardly demonstrable. They probably gave directions, + and some of them, in their efforts to make things plain to + the crude mind of the Indians, may have tried their hands at + work to which they were not trained any more than clerical + candidates or university students are at the present time; + but it is too much to assume that those decorations give + evidence even of the taste of the fathers. In that matter, as + in everything else that was not contrary to faith or morals, + they adapted themselves to the taste of their wards, or very + likely, too, to the humor of such stray 'artists' as might + happen upon the coast, or whom they might be able to import. + You must bear in mind that in all California down to 1854 + there were no lay-brothers accompanying the fathers to + perform such work as is done by our lay-brothers now, who can + very well compete with the best of secular artisans. The + church of St. Boniface, San Francisco, and the church of St. + Joseph, Los Angeles, are proof of this. Hence the fathers + were left to their own wits in giving general directions, and + to the taste of white 'artists,' and allowed even Indians to + suit themselves. You will find this all through ancient + Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. The Indians loved the gaudy, + loud, grotesque, and as it was the main thing for the fathers + to gain the Indians in any lawful way possible, the taste of + the latter was paramount. + + "As your criticism stands, it cannot but throw a slur upon + the poor missionaries, who after all did not put up these + buildings and have them decorated as they did for the benefit + of future critics, but for the instruction and pleasure of + the natives. Having been an Indian missionary myself, I acted + just so. I have found that the natives would not appreciate a + work of art, whereas they prized the grotesque. Well, as long + as it drew them to prize the supernatural more, what + difference did it make to the missionary? You yourself refer + to the unwise action of the Pala priest in not considering + the taste and the affection of the Indians." + +Another critic of my criticism insists that, "while the Indians, if left +to themselves, possess harmony of color which seems never to fail, they +always demand startling effects from us." This, I am inclined to +question. The Indians' color-sense in their basketry is perfect, as also +in their blankets, and I see no reason for the assumption that they +should demand of us what is manifestly so contrary to their own natural +and normal tastes. + +[Illustration: ALTAR AND CEILING DECORATIONS, MISSION SANTA INES.] + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF MISSION SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS, SHOWING MURAL +AND CEILING DECORATIONS.] + +It must, in justice to the padres, be confessed that, holding the common +notions on decoration, it is often harder to decorate a house than it +is to build it; but why decorate at all? The dull color of the natural +adobe, or plaster, would have at least been true art in its simple +dignity of architecture, whereas when covered with unmeaning designs in +foolish colors even the architectural dignity is detracted from. + +One writer says that the colors used in these interior decorations were +mostly of vegetable origin and were sized with glue. The yellows were +extracted from poppies, blues from nightshade, though the reds were +gained from stones picked up from the beach. The glue was manufactured +on the spot from the bones, etc., of the animals slaughtered for food. + +As examples of interior decoration, the Missions of San Miguel Arcangel +and Santa Ines are the only ones that afford opportunity for extended +study. At Santa Clara, the decorations of the ceiling were restored as +nearly like the original as possible, but with modern colors and +workmanship. At Pala Chapel the priest whitewashed the mural distemper +paintings out of existence. A small patch remains at San Juan Bautista +merely as an example; while a splashed and almost obliterated fragment +is the only survival at San Carlos Carmelo. + +At San Miguel, little has been done to disturb the interior, so that it +is in practically the same condition as it was left by the padres +themselves. Fr. Zephyrin informs me that these decorations were done by +one Murros, a Spaniard, whose daughter, Mrs. McKee, at the age of over +eighty, is still alive at Monterey. She told him that the work was done +in 1820 or 1821. He copied the designs out of books, she says, and none +but Indians assisted him in the actual work, though the padres were +fully consulted as it progressed. + +At Santa Barbara all that remains of the old decorations are found in +the reredos, the marbleizing of the engaged columns on each wall and the +entrance and side arches. This marble effect is exceedingly rude, and +does not represent the color of any known marble. + +In the old building of San Francisco the rafters of the ceiling have +been allowed to retain their ancient decorations. These consist of +rhomboidal figures placed conventionally from end to end of +the building. + +At Santa Clara, when the church was restored in 1861-1862, and again in +1885, the original decorations on walls and ceiling were necessarily +destroyed or injured. But where possible they were kept intact; where +injured, retouched; and where destroyed, replaced as near the original +as the artist could accomplish. In some cases the original work was on +canvas, and some on wood. Where this could be removed and replaced it +was done. The retouching was done by an Italian artist who came down +from San Francisco. + +[Illustration: INTERIOR OF MISSION SAN MIGUEL FROM THE CHOIR GALLERY.] + +[Illustration: ARCHES, SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY DEPOT, SANTA BARBARA, +CALIF.] + +[Illustration: FACHADA OF MISSION CHAPEL AT LOS ANGELES.] + +On the walls, the wainscot line is set off with the sinuous body of the +serpent, which not only lends itself well to such a purpose of +ornamentation, but was a symbolic reminder to the Indians of that old +serpent, the devil, the father of lies and evil, who beguiled our first +parents in the Garden of Eden. + +In the ruins of the San Fernando church faint traces of the decorations +oL the altar can still be seen in two simple rounded columns, with +cornices above. + +At San Juan Capistrano, on the east side of the quadrangle, in the +northeast corner, is a small room; and in one corner of this is a niche +for a statue, the original decorations therein still remaining. It is +weather-stained, and the rain has washed the adobe in streaks over some +of it; yet it is interesting. It consists of a rude checkerboard design, +or, rather, of a diagonal lozenge pattern in reds and yellows. + +There are also a few remnants of the mural distemper paintings in the +altar zone of the ruined church. + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI + +HOW TO REACH THE MISSIONS + +SAN DIEGO. From Los Angeles to San Diego, Santa Fe Railway, 126 miles, +one way fare $3.85; round trip $5.00, good ten days; or $7.00, good 30 +days, with stop-over privileges at Oceanside, which allows a visit to +San Luis Rey and Pala (via Oceanside) and San Juan Capistrano. Or +steamship, $3.00 and $2.25; round trip, first class, $5.25. The Mission +is six miles from San Diego, and a carriage must be taken all the way, +or the electric car to the bluff, fare five cents; thence by Bluff Road, +on burro, two miles, fare fifty cents. The better way is to drive by Old +Town and return by the Bluff Road. + +SAN LUIS REY. From Los Angeles to Oceanside, Santa Fe Railway, 85 miles, +fare $2.55; round trip, ten days, $4.60. Take carriage from livery, or +walk to Mission, 4 miles. The trip to Pala may be taken at the same +time, though sleeping accommodations are uncertain at Pala. Meals may be +had at one or two of the Indian houses, as a rule. + +SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO. From Los Angeles to Capistrano, Santa Fe Railway, +58 miles, fare $1.70. The Mission is close to the station. Hotel +accommodations are poor. + +SAN GABRIEL. From Los Angeles to San Gabriel, Southern Pacific Railway, +8 miles, fare 25 cents. Or Pacific electric car from Los Angeles, +25 cents. + +SAN FERNANDO. From Los Angeles to San Fernando, Southern Pacific +Railway, 21 miles, fare 65 cents. Thence by carriage or on foot or +horseback to the Mission, 1 1/2 miles. Livery and hotel at San Fernando. + +SAN BUENAVENTURA. From Los Angeles to San Buenaventura, Southern Pacific +Railway, 76 miles, fare $2.30. Or steamship, $2.35, special, Saturday to +Monday, $3.00 round trip. Electric cars from Southern Pacific Station +pass the Mission. + +SANTA BARBARA. From Los Angeles to Santa Barbara, Southern Pacific +Railway, fare $3.15; special round trip, Saturday to Monday, $3.50. From +San Francisco to Santa Barbara, 370 miles, Southern Pacific Railway, +fare $13.40 and $11.65. Street car passes the Mission. + +SANTA INES. This is not on the line of any railway. It can be reached +from Santa Barbara, 25 miles, by carriage, or from Los Olivos, four +miles, by stage. Los Olivos is on the line of the Pacific Coast Railway. +To reach it take Southern Pacific Railway to San Luis Obispo, change +cars. It is then 66 miles to Los Olivos, fare $3.00. The better way is +to go by Southern Pacific to Lompoc, take carriage and visit the site +of Old La Purisima, then Purisima, then drive to Santa Ines and return. +With a good team this can be done in a day. Distance 25 miles. + +LA PURISIMA CONCEPCION. Go to Lompoc on the coast line of the Southern +Pacific either from Los Angeles (181 miles, $5.60) or San Francisco (294 +miles, $9.35). Carriage from livery to the ruins of Old Purisima, thence +to the later one, five miles. + +SAN LUIS OBISPO. Southern Pacific Railway from either Los Angeles (222 +miles, $6.70) or San Francisco (253 miles, $7.30), or steamship to Port +Hartford and the Pacific Coast Railway, 211 miles, $6.50. The Mission is +in the town. + +SAN MIGUEL. The Mission is but a few rods from the Southern Pacific +Station, reached either from Los Angeles (273 miles, $8.05) or San +Francisco (208 miles, $5.95). By far the better way, however, is to go +to Paso Robles, where one can bathe in the Hot Springs so noted even in +Indian days, while enjoying the hospitalities of one of the best hotels +on the Pacific Coast. Carriages may be secured from one of the livery +stables. From here visit Santa Isabel Ranch and Hot Springs (which used +to belong to San Miguel), then drive 16 miles to San Miguel. On account +of the completeness of its interior decorations, this is, in many +respects, especially to the student, the most interesting Mission of the +whole chain. + +[Illustration: THE CITY HALL, SANTA MONICA, CALIF.] + +[Illustration: MISSION CHAPEL AT LOS ANGELES, FROM THE PLAZA PARK.] + +[Illustration: RESIDENCE IN LOS ANGELES, CALIF. Showing influence of +Mission style of architecture.] + +SAN ANTONIO DE PADUA. It is a twenty-mile stage ride from King's +City, on the line of the Southern Pacific (216 miles from Los Angeles, +$9.35) to Jolon (fare $2.00), the quaintest little village now remaining +in California, which is practically the gateway to Mission San Antonio +de Padua. At Jolon one secures a team, and, after a six-mile drive +through a beautiful park, dotted on every hand with majestic +live-oaks,--ancient monarchs that have accumulated moss and majesty with +their years,--the ruins of the old Mission come into view. From San +Francisco to King's City is 164 miles, fare $4.65. + +LA SOLEDAD. The Mission is four miles from the town of Soledad on the +Southern Pacific Railway. From Los Angeles, 337 miles, fare $9.95. From +San Francisco, 144 miles, fare $4.00. Livery from Soledad to +the Mission. + +SAN JUAN BAUTISTA is six miles from Sargent's Station on the Southern +Pacific. Two stages run daily, fare $1.00 for the round trip. Visitors +may be accommodated at the Plaza Hotel, conducted by William Haydon. +From Los Angeles to Sargent's, 394 miles, fare $11.65. From San +Francisco, 87 miles, fare $2.35. + +SAN CARLOS BORROMEO, MONTEREY. The old presidio church is in the town of +Monterey, and reached by car-line from Hotel del Monte or the town. San +Carlos Carmelo is about six miles from Monterey, and must be reached by +carriage or automobile. By far the best way is to stop at either Hotel +del Monte or Hotel Carmelo, Pacific Grove, and then on taking the +seventeen-mile drive, make the side trip to San Carlos. To Monterey from +San Francisco, on the Southern Pacific Railway, is 126 miles, fare +$3.00. Friday to Tuesday excursion, round trip, $4.50. From Los Angeles +to Monterey, Southern Pacific Railway, 398 miles, fare $11.45. + +SANTA CRUZ. It is well to go from San Francisco on the narrow gauge, 80 +miles, Southern Pacific, and return on the broad gauge, 121 miles. Fare +on either line $2.80. On the narrow gauge are the Big Trees, at which an +interesting stop-over can be enjoyed. + +SANTA CLARA. While there is a city of Santa Clara it is better to go to +San Jose (the first town established in California), and stay at Hotel +Vendome, and then drive or go by electric car, down the old Alameda to +Santa Clara Mission, 3-1/2 miles. + +MISSION SAN JOSE. So called to distinguish it from the city of San Jose. +By Southern Pacific Railway from San Francisco to Irvington, 34 miles, +fare 85 cents. Or from the city of San Jose, 14 miles by Southern +Pacific, or a pleasant carriage drive. From Irvington to the Mission, +three miles, stage twice daily, fare 25 cents. + +SAN FRANCISCO DE ASIS is on Sixteenth and Dolores Streets, three miles +from Palace Hotel. Take Valencia or Howard electric cars. + +SAN RAFAEL. There is nothing left at San Rafael of the old Mission. The +town is reached by North Pacific Coast Railway, 18 miles, or California +Northwestern, 15 miles, fare 35 cents. + +SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO is in the town of Sonoma. Reached by North Pacific +Coast Railway, 43 miles, fare $1.00. + + +THE END. + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Old Franciscan Missions Of +California, by George Wharton James + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE OLD FRANCISCAN MISSIONS *** + +***** This file should be named 13854.txt or 13854.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/8/5/13854/ + +Produced by Charlie Kirschner and the PG Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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