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diff --git a/13775-0.txt b/13775-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d63ffa3 --- /dev/null +++ b/13775-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8713 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 *** + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + +The Cold-Pack Method + +by + +GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B + +Formerly Associate Professor of Home Economics, +Iowa State College + +1920 + + + + + + + +PREFACE + + +It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, Cold-Pack +Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand one day at a +federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a few weeks there +would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty miles away. Immediately +I announced that I was going to the demonstrations. So leaving my +small daughter with my mother, I went to the Normal School at DeKalb, +Illinois, and heard and saw for the first time cold-pack canning. + +It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded full of +interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I felt amply +repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, the first +story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in _The Country +Gentleman_ and I had the pleasure of writing it. So enthused was I +over this new, efficient and easy way to can not only fruits but hard +vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that I wanted to carry the +good news into the kitchen of other busy housewives and mothers. + +My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, just +from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, much +against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement work, my +sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that for the first +time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over one phase of +cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that when she received +my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, "Mother, I am +enthused about this canning and want to can everything in sight this +summer," she hastily washed all available glass jars and tops and had +everything in readiness for young daughter's return. And we canned. We +were not content to can alone but invited all the neighbors in and +taught them how to can. Our community canned more things and more +unusual things, including the hard vegetables, that year than they had +ever attempted before. + +Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there were +doubting Thomases, but it only took time and _results_ to convert even +the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a confession. It was +much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase of canning, to master +this new method than it was for me with my four years' training course +and my five years of teaching canning behind me. And this is the +reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," she knew no other method whereas +I had to "unlearn" all my previous methods. + +The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from the old +hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you must forget +all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And right here is +where many women "fall down"--they are not willing to admit that they +know nothing about it and so do not get accurate information about it. +They are so afraid of appearing ignorant. This false feeling is the +greatest obstacle in woman's way. + +I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will say, +"Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it for thirty +years." And when I show my surprise, they further enlighten me with, +"and my mother used it before me, too." With a little tactful +questioning I usually get these answers: "Of course, I do not hot dip +and cold dip. I never heard of that before. I pack the products into +the cold jars and for all vegetables I use a preserving powder because +there is no way on earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless +you put something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right. +Then I cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I +ask, "How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the +answer, "Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems +like such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned, +out-of-date methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and +much actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for +there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old rather +than try the new. + +The present book is therefore designed for all interested in greater +efficiency in the home, including not only students of home economics +but all persons who have charge of homes and are interested in +learning new, efficient, time and labor saving methods. + +In the preparation of this book I have received much help from Mr. +O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' and +Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. I also +wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped to make +this book possible by contributing information, advice and +encouragement. + +GRACE VIALL GRAY. + +October, 1919. + + + + + CONTENTS + + I. GETTING READY TO CAN + + II. SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + III. HARD FRUITS + + IV. VEGETABLES + + V. SOUPS + + VI. JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + VII. MEAT + + VIII. FISH + + IX. EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + X. INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + XI. WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + XI. I GETTING READY TO DRY + + XIII. HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + XIV. HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + XV. EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + XVI. CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + XVII. PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + XVIII. HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + XIX. HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + + + + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +GETTING READY TO CAN + + +Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of canning, +preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California fruits by the +case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen cans, according +to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was cheaper and +decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, greens, soups +and meats than to take time and strength in the very hottest season of +the year to do our own canning. + +But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us thrift. The +crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has sunk into our +minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods have been adopted by +the modern woman. Women who had never canned in days before the war +had to can during war days. Food was so scarce and so high in price +that to buy fancy or even plain canned products was a severe strain on +the average housewife's purse. The American woman, as was to be +expected, came quickly and eagerly to the front with the solution and +the slogan: "More gardens and more canning and preserving at home." + +A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As I have +just said, women who had never canned before became vitally interested +in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, but jars upon +jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so great was their +delight in the finished products that again and again I heard them +say: "Never again shall we depend upon the grocery to supply us with +canned goods." + +If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that their +grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just the same, +because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they would have +canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so apparent during the +summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a result of new canning +methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. The women of to-day were +forced into a new field and learned how satisfying and well worth +while the results were. It is safe to guarantee that every +home-canning recruit will become a home-canning veteran. + +The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned how +simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear that +home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the immediate +necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own because of the +war, and it has come to stay because of its many merits. + +There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all over +the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the "intermittent," the +"cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods. + + +DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS + +The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was largely +used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in the +preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized jars, after +which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar is done after +the sterilization has been completed, there is always a possibility of +bacteria and spores entering the jar with the cooked food and the air. +Fruits can be handled successfully in this way, but this method cannot +be used for vegetables, greens and meats. It is a very laborious, hot +and hard way to can. Modern housewives are discarding it more and more +every year and are beginning to place their trust in the newer and far +more scientific methods of canning. + +The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still +beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture into +the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all fruits +and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where they say +the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great objection to this +method of canning is that it requires three periods of sterilization +on three different days and three liftings of jars in and out of the +sterilizer. + +What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning should not +be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The "cold-water" is often +used in connection with the canning of rhubarb, green gooseberries and +a comparatively few other sour berry fruits. If the "cold-water" +method is used we would suggest that the product be thoroughly washed, +placed in a strainer, scalding water poured over it, and the product +then packed at once, in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and +clean, cold water applied until the jars are filled. If these steps +are taken carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be +successful with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products +will have to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not +consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method. + + +THE COLD-PACK METHOD + +The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is known as +the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight to prove +that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory process for +busy housewives to can everything that grows. + +This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, and if I +should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am referring +to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are packed cold in +their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or containers. To the +fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables hot water and a little +salt are added. The sterilization is done in the glass jars or tin +containers after they are partly or entirely sealed, making it +practically impossible for bacteria or spores to enter after the +product has once been carefully sterilized or cooked. In following +this method vegetables should first be blanched in boiling water or +live steam, then quickly plunged into cold water and the skins +removed. The products are then packed in containers and sterilized +according to the instructions and recipes given later. + +When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the product +for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled with food. +It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, processing, boiling +and cooking are all interchangeable terms and mean one and the same +thing. + +By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food +products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be successfully +sterilized in a single period with but one handling of the product in +and out of the canner. + +All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy pulp, +and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than in any +other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is eliminated and +all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause vegetables and meat to +spoil are destroyed. + + +EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL + +For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you have in +the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many of us have +purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn out more at the +end of a day and have found it well worth while to invest a few +dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more efficient. But if you +are a beginner and do not care to put any money in an unknown venture +use the available things at hand, just to prove to yourself and others +that it can be done. + +Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those which +are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and basements +and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good condition and +will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good rubber you can use +that jar. + +If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor economy to +use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably responsible for more +spoiled canned goods than any other cause. Good tops and good rubbers +are requisites for good canning. + +For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a +galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail--a new one, of +course. Either is excellent where the family is small and the canning +is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the cookstove while +others employ a large vat. If you should have to buy the wash boiler +or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover and be sure the pail +does not leak. Then all you have to do is to secure what we call a +false bottom, something that will keep the jars of fruit from touching +the direct bottom of the boiler or pail. This false bottom, remember, +is absolutely necessary, for without it the jars will break during the +boiling. + +For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and cut it +to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or bucket. +If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a wooden +bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not available +put thin pieces of wood in the bottom--anything to keep the jars from +coming in direct contact with the bottom of the sterilizer. + +If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use a +deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. This +rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars from +becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a tendency +for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be lost. Do not +use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a false bottom; they +are unsatisfactory because they do not allow proper circulation of +water. + +Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by many +women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the market +and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned fingers. +Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies with you, +individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will hold all +your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them separately. + +To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no matter what +kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper than the tallest +jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra inch or two so that +the water will not boil over. + +Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you will +need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may be put +for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water--if you haven't +running water--for the "cold dip." + +If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar +lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the canner. +If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as they contain +an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher for lifting the +jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, such as scales, +knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth or muslin for +blanching or scalding the product, and the kitchen clock play their +part in canning. + +No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product is +cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food will +be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is desired to +add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may be done when +the product is packed in the jar. + +A great many people have been led to believe through advertising +matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds for +the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep under the +commonly known methods of canning. The first argument against the use +of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It is possible to +sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on tree, vine, shrub or +in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period method of canning, +without the use of a compound. The second argument against it is that +many of the canning compounds are positively harmful to health. Some +of them contain as high as ninety-five per cent of boric acid. +Directors of county and state fairs should exclude from entry all +fruits and vegetables that have been preserved in any canning +compound. Perfect fruit can be produced without any chemical +preservative. The third argument is that they are expensive. + +There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and garbage +pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath outfits. In +these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling water. + +There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the +product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally +used for everyday cookery. + +The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the aluminum +pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards the time +required to sterilize food. + +Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and +manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the +hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or +hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing. + +The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated but +more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker because it +can be used for everyday cooking in the home. + +Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, as +they are used daily and not just during the canning season. + +Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a +hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen minutes; +in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, twelve minutes; +in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; in +an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten pounds of steam, five +minutes. + +It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath outfit; the +shortest and quickest method is with the pressure cooker that has a +pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife has different financial +problems, different hours of working and different ways of working. +Where quick work is desired and expense is no item the pressure cooker +is advisable; where money is scarce and time is no object the homemade +outfit answers. Each one must decide which outfit is best for her own +particular case. It matters not which outfit you have--they have all +been thoroughly tested and approved by experts. Each one does the +work. + +This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart +kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart +measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar opener; +wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for blanching; +pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one tablespoon; one +teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring cup; jar lifter; +either a rack for several jars or individual jar holders; and a clock. + +The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept busy +during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices for +outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the young +people of your family and give them something definite and worth while +to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must be kept +busy--if not usefully employed they are often inclined to mischief. +This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can be used in the +back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the front yard. + +Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of heat +required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for canning +are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of 500 feet +above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot increase in +altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the time required +as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning of all kinds of +fruits, vegetables, greens and meats. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + +Having decided on your canning outfit, whether you are going to can in +boiling water, in a condensed steam cooker, or in steam under +pressure; having gathered together the necessary tools, such as +spoons, knives and a funnel; having raided the storeroom and collected +some jars, you are now ready for the actual work of canning. + +It is rather unfortunate that strawberries should be one of the very +hardest products to can with good results. The canning itself is +simple--all berries are quickly and easily canned--but strawberries +always shrink, are apt to turn a little brown, and, what distresses us +most of all, they float to the top of the jar. + +The berry's tendency to shrink is responsible for loss of color as +well as its floating qualities. However, if you will be exceedingly +careful to remove the berries from the canner the minute the clock +says the sterilizing period is over, you will have a fairly good +product. Two minutes too long will produce a very dark, shrunken +berry. So be careful of the cooking time. Another thing that makes a +good-looking jar is to pack a quart of berries--all kinds of berries, +not merely strawberries--into a pint jar. If you will get that many in +you will have a much better-looking jar, with very little liquid at +the bottom. It does not hurt the berries at all to gently press down +on them with a silver spoon while you are packing them into the jar. + +We know we are going to get a quart of berries into every pint jar, +so we know just how many quarts of berries we will need to fill the +necessary jars for the next winter's use. + +The first thing to do is to test each jar to see that there are no +cracks, no rough edges to cut the rubber, and to see whether the cover +and clamp fit tightly, if a clamp type of jar is used. The bail that +clamps down the glass tops should go down with a good spring. If it +does not, remove the bail and bend it into shape by taking it in both +hands and pressing down in the middle with both thumbs. Do not bend it +too hard, for if it goes down with too much of a snap it will break +the jar. This testing of the bails should be done every year. The +bails on new jars are sometimes too tight, in which case remove the +bail and spread it out. After the bail has been readjusted, test it +again. The chances are it will be just right. Of course all this +testing takes time, but it pays. + +If you are using some old Mason jars put a rubber on each jar, fill +the jar with hot water, and then put the cover on tight and invert. +This is a sure test for leakage. Never use a Mason cap twice unless +the cover and collar are separate so that both can be completely +sterilized. Fortunately the old-fashioned Mason jar metal cover to +which a porcelain cap is fastened is going out of style. + +If you still have some of these old covers it will be economy to throw +them away. You will be money ahead in the end. After these tops have +been used once it is impossible to make a fastening between the +porcelain and the metal so tight that it is not possible for the +liquid to seep through and cause the contents to spoil. This accounts +for many failures when old tops are used. For this reason never use +the old-fashioned, zinc-topped covers. + +The new and safe Mason jar covers consist of two parts, the metal +collar and the porcelain cap. They are for sale at all grocery or +hardware stores. + +If you are using the vacuum-seal jars which have a composition +attached to the lacquered tops, carefully examine this rubber +composition to see that it is perfect. This composition should go +entirely round the top and should not be cut or broken in any place. +If it is the top must be discarded for a perfect one. + +Of course with this type of jar no rubber rings are necessary, as the +rubber composition on the lacquered top does the sealing. + +It is a wise plan to go round the tops and over the inside of all new +glass jars with a heavy and dull knife to scrape off any slivers of +glass or bursted blisters that may be still clinging to the jars. +Those on the tops cut through the rubber and cause leakage. Those in +the jars may get into the product. I often find these splinters, +particularly on new straight-sided jars. + +It matters not what type of jar you use. Use what you have at hand, +but if you are buying new jars consider the following things before +making your selections: No metal, unless it is enameled or lacquered, +should come in contact with the food. The jars should be of smooth, +well-finished glass. The color of the jar does not affect the keeping +qualities of the food. The top or part of the top that comes in +contact with the contents should be all in one piece, so as not to +offer a place for the accumulation of organisms and dirt. The jars +which have nearly straight sides and a wide mouth or opening are +easier to wash and facilitate better, quicker and easier packing of +the product. + +Wash the jars in soap and water. Rinse in boiling water. Some people +temper new jars so they will stand the shock of hot water or hot sirup +without breaking. If you wish to take this extra precaution put the +jars in a dishpan or kettle of cold water after they have been washed +in soapy water; bring the water slowly to a boil and let it boil +fifteen minutes. After the jars are ready test the rubber rings. This +may seem a useless precaution, but it is a necessary one, for there is +no one detail in the business of canning that is more important. Even +in the best boxes of rubbers there is occasionally a black sheep, and +one black sheep may cause the loss of a jar. + +Test each rubber before you use it by pressing it firmly between the +thumbs and forefingers, stretching it very slightly. If it seems soft +and spongy discard it. All rubbers fit for canning should be firm, +elastic, and should endure a stretching pull without breaking. A good +rubber ring will return promptly to place without changing the inside +diameter. + +A great many women are laboring under the wrong impression that color +affects the quality of a ring. Some women insist on red, and others on +white. Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter during the +manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index to its +usefulness in home canning. + +Use only fresh, sound strawberries or other berries. There is a little +knack about preparing the strawberries that few housewives know. Hull +the berries by _twisting the berries off the hull_, instead of pulling +the hull from the berry as most women do. You will have a +better-looking berry if you will be careful about this. Place the +berries in a strainer and pour cold water over them to cleanse them. + + +HOW TO ADJUST THE COVERS + +Never allow the berries or any fruit to stand in water, as the flavor +and color are destroyed by water-soaking. Pack in glass jars, pressing +the berries down tightly, but without crushing them. Put the rubber on +the jar if you are using a jar requiring a rubber. Pour hot sirup over +the berries. Put the top of the jar in place, but only partially +tighten it. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, screw down with the +thumb and little finger, not using force but stopping when the cover +catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +In using glass-top jars with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and leave the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while the product is +cooking, because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is +not loose enough to allow the steam to escape the pressure may blow +the rubber out or break the jar. + +The product is now ready for the canner. + + +STERILIZING + +If you are using the homemade outfit, such as wash-boiler or garbage +pail, all berries and soft fruits are sterilized sixteen minutes; in +all commercial hot-water-bath outfits and in condensed steam, sixteen +minutes; in the water-seal, twelve minutes; in the steam pressure +under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; and in the pressure cooker +under ten pounds of steam, five minutes. Do not allow the pressure to +run above ten pounds for soft fruits; fifteen pounds makes them mushy. + +If you use any type of hot-water-bath outfit be sure the water is +boiling when the fruit is lowered into the canner, and _keep it +boiling_ vigorously for the entire sixteen minutes. At the end of the +sterilizing time, _immediately_ remove the jars from the canner. + +In taking canned goods from boiling water care is needed to see that +they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows and +doors while lifting the jars out, as a sudden draft might break them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes if a cover is +screwed down too tight the pressure of the steam from the inside +causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a thread or +two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. + +In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber it should be replaced by a new one, and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert the jar to test the joint, then let it cool. If the seal is not +perfect correct the fault and return the jar to the cooker for five +minutes if hot, ten minutes if the jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool, and +then be tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only half an inch, holding it over the +table, so that in case the lid does not hold the jar and contents will +not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the cover with +a rule. An imperfect seal will give a hollow sound. + +As light injures delicately colored fruits and vegetables, it is wise +to store them in dark places, such as cupboards, or basement or attic +shelves protected from the light. Black cambric tacked to the top +shelf and suspended over the other shelves is a sufficient protection +from light. A discarded window shade can be rolled down over the +shelves and easily pulled up when you desire to take a jar from the +shelves. + +Canned goods are best kept at a temperature below seventy degrees +Fahrenheit, where that is at all possible. + + +STEPS IN CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +It might be well to enumerate the steps in berry and soft-fruit +canning, or do what we called in our schooldays "review it": + +1. Get the canner and all its accessories ready. + +2. Test and wash jars and tops and put in water to sterilize. + +3. Test rubber rings. + +4. Make sirup and put in double boiler to keep hot + +5. Prepare the product--hull, seed, stem. + +6. Place berries or fruit in strainer or colander. + +7. Rinse by pouring cold water over product. + +8. Pack from strainer into hot jar. + +9. Use big spoon to get a firm pack. + +10. Dip rubber in hot water to cleanse it and put it in place on the +jar. + +11. Pour the hot sirup over the fruit at once. + +12. Put top of jar on, but not tight. + +13. Ready for canner. + +14. Sterilize for the necessary length of time, according to the +outfit you are using: + + MINUTES + + Hot-water-bath outfit 16 + Condensed-steam outfit 16 + Water-seal outfit 12 + Steam pressure, 5 pounds, outfit 10 + Pressure cooker, 10 pounds, outfit 5 + +15. Remove from canner. + +16. Tighten cover, except vacuum-seal jar, which seals automatically. + +17. Test joint. + +18. Three or four days later, if perfectly air-tight, label and store +in a dark place. + +These steps are followed for strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, +dewberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, raspberries, and for all soft +fruits, such as cherries, currants, grapes and figs. + +The other soft fruits, such as peaches and apricots, which have a +skin, are scalded or "hot dipped" for one to two minutes in boiling +water or steam and are then plunged into cold water. These two steps +of hot-dipping and cold dipping make the removal of skins a very +simple operation. After the skins are removed the fruit is put into +the hot jars and the process continued from Step 8, as with +strawberries. + + +SIRUPS + +Of course you are wondering about the sirups for the different fruits. +There is no set rule for making sirup. It is not necessary to use +sirup in canning fruits. The amount of sugar used in the sirup will +depend upon the individual taste. In a first-class product there +should be enough sirup to improve its flavor, but not enough to make +it take the place in the diet of a sweet preserve rather than a fresh +fruit. + +The sirups are made either with varying proportions of sugar and water +or with the same proportions boiled different lengths of time. What is +known as the California sirup is made with three parts of sugar to two +parts of water, boiled gently to different concentrations. + +Thin Sirup. For a thin sirup take three cups of sugar and two cups +of water. Mix sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. This is +used for all sweet fruits not too delicate in texture and color, as +apples, cherries, pears, or for fruits in which more sugar will be +added in preparation for the table. + +Medium Thin Sirup. The sugar and water should be boiled about four +minutes, or until it begins to be sirupy. This is used for +raspberries, peaches, blackberries, currants, etc. + +Medium Thick Sirup. Boil the sugar and water until it will pile up +over the edge of the spoon when it is tipped. This is used for sour or +acid fruits, as plums, gooseberries, apricots, sour apples, and some +of the delicately colored fruits, as strawberries. + +Thick Sirup. The sugar and water are boiled until it will form a +ball in the spoon and cannot be poured from the spoon. This is used +for preserves. + +It is possible to get more, sometimes almost twice as much, sirup +into a quart jar containing large fruits, as apples and pears, than +into a quart jar containing small fruits, as currants or blackberries. + +There is a little knack worth knowing about combining the sugar and +water for the sirup. If the sugar is sifted into the boiling water +just as fine-grained cereals are sifted into water, there will be no +scum formed. This is a saving of sugar. + +If you wish to can strawberries for the market or to win a prize at +the county or state fairs, can them as follows: + +Canned by this recipe, strawberries will not rise to the top of the +sirup. Use only fresh, ripe, firm and sound berries. Prepare them, and +add eight ounces of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water to each +quart of berries. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes in an enameled or +acid-proof kettle. Allow the berries to cool and remain several hours +or over-night in the covered kettle. Pack the cold berries in hot +glass jars. Put rubbers and caps of jars in position, not tight. +Sterilize for the length of time given below for the type of outfit +used: + + MINUTES + Water bath, homemade or commercial 8 + Water seal, 214 degrees 6 + 5 pounds steam pressure 5 + 10 pounds steam pressure. Do not use. + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool and test +the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +HARD FRUITS + + +PINEAPPLES + +The object of canning citrus fruits is, first, to save the surplus and +by-products; second, to furnish wholesome fruits at reasonable cost to +more of our people; third, to help the producer to transform +by-products into net profits. + +Almost every one likes canned pineapple, but some housewives stopped +canning this fruit because they found that when cooked in sirup it +seemed to get tough and less palatable. Vegetable and fruit fibers are +toughened when cooked with sugar for any length of time, so in all +cases where you desire to keep the product as Nature grew it avoid +this form of cooking. + +When the product is put into the jars with a sirup and cooked in the +jar you will have a product superior to the one that is cooked over +the direct fire in the kettle with the sirup. + +But pineapple slices or pieces are so hard they cannot be put directly +into the jars as berries are. Pineapples must undergo a preliminary +process to make them palatable and soft. This preliminary process is +known in canning as "blanching." + +After the pineapple has been prepared by paring and removing the eyes, +it can be left in slices or cut into cubes. In cutting hold the +pineapple at the top and use a sharp knife. It is then placed in a +wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth for the blanching. Blanching +means to immerse the product in boiling water for a certain length of +time to reduce its bulk and soften it. + +Pineapples are blanched for five minutes. We scald peaches and +apricots, which are soft fruits; but we blanch pineapples, apples and +quinces, the hard fruits. + +Scalding means to immerse the product in boiling water for a very +short time--just long enough to loosen the skins. Blanching is just a +longer period of scalding. + +When you blanch pineapples use only enough water to cover them. This +same blanching water can be used for making the sirup. It contains +much of the pineapple flavor and there is no reason for discarding it. +But this is absolutely the only blanching water that is ever used. All +other blanching water, particularly that in which vegetables are +blanched, is full of objectionable acids that we want to get rid of, +so under no circumstances must it be used. But with pineapples the +object of blanching is primarily to soften the hard fiber, so there is +no objection to using the blanching water. + +After the pineapple has been in the covered kettle of boiling water +for five minutes, it is held under cold water until cool enough to +handle. Never let it soak in cold water, as that will impair its +delicate flavor. After this it is packed into hot sterilized jars. +Rubber rings are put on the jars, the covers are put in place--not +tight--and the jars are put in the canner. + +Pineapple is sterilized for thirty minutes in a hot-water-bath outfit; +thirty minutes in a condensed steam outfit; twenty-five minutes in the +water-seal; twenty-five minutes in the steam pressure under five +pounds of steam, and eighteen minutes in the pressure cooker under ten +pounds of pressure. At the end of the sterilizing period the jars are +removed, the covers completely tightened and the joints carefully +tested for leakage. + +A thin or medium-thin sirup is best for pineapples. Measure the +blanching water and to every two cups of it add three cups of sugar. +If you wish the sirup thin heat until the sugar is dissolved. If +medium-thin sirup is desired, boil it about four minutes or until it +begins to be sirupy. + + +STEPS IN CANNING PINEAPPLE + +1. Cut the pineapple into slices of desired thickness. + +2. Pare the slices. It is easier to pare the slices than to pare the +whole pineapple. + +3. Remove the eyes, using pineapple scissors to facilitate the work. + +4. Blanch pineapple for five minutes in a small amount of boiling +water, using a wire basket or cheesecloth. + +5. Cold-dip the pineapple. + +6. Make a sirup, using the blanching water. Make a thin or medium-thin +sirup. + +7. Pack the pineapple into hot sterilized jars, with good rubbers on +them. + +8. Pour the sirup over the pineapple. + +9. Put the tops of the jars on--not tight. + +10. Sterilize for 30 minutes in hot-water-bath outfit, 30 minutes in +condensed-steam outfit, 25 minutes in water-seal outfit, 25 minutes in +steam pressure (5 pounds), 18 minutes in pressure cooker (10 pounds). + +11. Remove from canner, tighten covers and inspect rubber and joints. + + +APPLES + +Here are six ways in which canned apples may be used: as a breakfast +dish, with cream and sugar; baked like fresh apples; in apple salad, +often served for lunch or supper; as a relish with roast pork--the +apples may be fried in the pork fat or the cores may be cooked with +roast pork for flavoring; and for apple dumplings, deep apple pie and +other desserts in which whole apples are desirable. The sirup of +canned whole apples can be used for pudding sauces or fruit drinks. + +Apples are another hard fruit which require blanching, as it greatly +improves their texture and appearance. + +Apples and some other fruits, such as pears and quinces, have a +tendency to turn brown when allowed to stand after they are cut. To +prevent their discoloring the pieces may be dropped into mild salt +water as they are pared and sliced. Let them stand for five minutes, +then wash them in clear water and pack. Use a thin sirup for canning +apples. + +Summer apples are not firm enough to keep well when canned. They cook +up and lose flavor. They may, however, be canned to be used in a short +time. Windfall apples may be pared, cored and sliced, using water, and +only a small quantity of that, instead of sirup, and canned for pies. + +To be able to can windfall and cull apples and thus have them for home +use through the entire year is a great advantage to all farmers who +grow them. They can be sold on the market canned when they would not +bring a cent in the fresh state. + +The windfall and cull apples may be divided into two grades. The +first grade would include the whole reasonably sound fruit; the second +grade the worm-eaten, partially decayed and injured fruit. Do not can +any injured or decayed part nor allow apples to become overripe before +canning. + +Canning Whole Reasonably Firm Apples. Wash the apples. Remove cores +and blemishes. Place whole apples in blanching tray or blanching cloth +and blanch in boiling hot water for one or two minutes. Remove and +plunge quickly into cold water. Pack in large glass jars. Pour over +the product a hot thin sirup. Place rubber and top in position. Seal +partially--not tight. + +Sterilize jars twenty minutes in hot-water-bath outfit and in +condensed steam, fifteen minutes in water-seal, ten minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam pressure, five minutes +in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit, under ten pounds of steam +pressure. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. + +Firm and tart apples may be cored and peeled first, then canned by the +above recipe. + +Canning Apples for Pie Filling. Use second grade of windfalls or +culls. Wash, core, pare and remove all decayed spots. Slice apple +quickly into a basin containing slightly salted cold water--about one +tablespoon of salt per gallon--to prevent discoloring. Pack fresh cold +product in glass jars. Add one cupful of hot thin sirup to each quart +of fruit. Put on the rubbers and screw on tops, but do not seal +completely. Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ten minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes +under five pounds of steam pressure; four minutes in aluminum +pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +joint. Store. + +This filling can be used for making apple pies in the same way that +fresh apples would be used, with the exception that the sirup must be +poured off and less sugar should be used. Since the apples have +already been cooked, only enough heat is needed to cook the crust and +to warm the apples through. Pies may be baked in seven minutes. The +apple pies made with these apples are, in the opinion of many +housekeepers, as good as those made with fresh fruit, and they can be +made in less time and are less expensive. + +The only difference between canning apples for pies and salads or +whole is that when wanted for pies the apples should be sliced +immediately after placing in cold slightly salted water. + +Canning Quartered Apples for Fruit Salads. Select best-grade culls +of firm and rather tart varieties. Core, pare and quarter. Drop into +basin containing slightly salted cold water. Pack these quartered +pieces tightly in jars. Add a cup of hot thin sirup to each quart. +Place rubber and top in position, partially seal--not tight. Sterilize +twelve minutes in hot-water bath and condensed-steam outfits; ten +minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes under five pounds of steam +pressure; four minutes in aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, +tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. Store. + + +ORANGES + +Canning Whole Oranges and Other Citrus Fruits. Select windfall or +packing-plant culls. Use no unsound or decayed fruit. Remove skin and +white fiber on surface. Blanch fruit in boiling water one and a half +minutes. Dip quickly in cold water. Pack containers full. Add boiling +hot thin sirup. Place rubber and cap in position and partially +seal--not tight. + +Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; eight minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes in +steam-pressure outfit under five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert +to cool and test joints. Wrap glass jars with paper to prevent +bleaching, and store. + +Canning Sliced Oranges for Salad Purposes. The oranges may be +divided into their natural sections or sliced with a knife. Pack jars +or containers full. Pour over product hot thin sirup. Place rubber and +cap in position. Partially seal--not tight. Sterilize ten minutes in +hot-water-bath and condensed-steam outfits; six minutes in water-seal +outfit; five minutes in steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of +steam; four minutes in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit under ten +pounds of steam. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +the joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching, and store. + + +PEARS, QUINCES AND RHUBARB + +Pears are prepared and canned just as the whole firm apples are, being +blanched a minute and a half, cold-dipped and sterilized for the same +length of time as apples. + +Quinces are so very hard they must be blanched like pineapples, but +for a longer time. Six minutes' blanching is usually sufficient for +quinces. The sterilizing period can be determined by looking at the +chart. + +If skins are left on rhubarb it keeps its pink color. The hot dip is +not necessary and may be omitted. It removes some of the excessive +acid in the rhubarb which makes it objectionable to some people. Be +very careful not to hot-dip the rhubarb more than one minute, for it +gets mushy. An advantage of the hot dip is that more rhubarb can be +packed in a jar after it has been hot-dipped. + + +WHAT A BUSHEL OF FRUIT WILL YIELD + +A great many women have no conception of how many jars of fruit they +will get from a bushel or half bushel of produce. It is wise to have a +little knowledge along this line, for it aids in planning the winter's +supply of canned goods as well as at marketing time. + +From one bushel of the various fruits you will get on the average the +following: + + PRODUCTS, 1 BUSHEL PINT JARS QUART JARS + + Windfall apples 30 20 + + Standard peaches 25 18 + + Pears 45 30 + + Plums 45 30 + + Berries 50 30 + + Windfall oranges--sliced 22 15 + + Windfall oranges--whole 35 22 + + +CANNING WITHOUT SUGAR + +Though all instructions indicate that sugar is necessary for the +canning of all kinds of fruits, it is not necessary for their proper +sterilization and preservation. Any fruit may be successfully +sterilized by simply adding boiling water instead of the hot sirup. It +is a well-known fact, however, that most fruits canned in water will +not retain so well their natural flavor, texture and color as fruit +canned in sirup. When the product is to be used for pies, salads, and +so on it is not necessary to can in sirup. When fruits canned in water +are to be used for sauces, the products should be sweetened before +use. In many instances it requires more sugar to sweeten a sauce after +canning than it does when the product is canned in the hot sirup. + +However, during the World War we had a good chance to test the fruits +which we canned without sugar, when that commodity was scarce and, in +fact, impossible to get in very large quantities. We used our fruits +just as they were and considered them very good. This all goes to show +that we can easily adjust ourselves to prevailing conditions. In +canning without the sugar sirup, you would follow these directions: + +Cull, stem or seed, and clean fruit by placing in a strainer and +pouring water over it until clean. Pack product thoroughly in glass +jars until full; use table knife or tablespoon for packing purposes. +Pour over the fruit boiling water from kettle, place rubbers and caps +in position, partially seal glass jars and place produce in canner. + +If using hot-water-bath outfit sterilize from twenty to thirty +minutes. After sterilizing remove packs, seal glass jars, wrap in +paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry cool place. + +When using a steam-pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath +sterilize for ten minutes with five pounds of steam pressure. Never +allow the pressure to go over ten pounds when you are canning soft +fruits. + + +WHEN TO CAN + +Inexperienced canners may not know when certain fruits are in season +and at their prime for canning. The list below is necessarily subject +to change, as seasons vary from year to year; but in normal years this +table would hold true for the Northern States. + + Apples September + Apricots August + Blackberries August + Cherries July + Currants July + Gooseberries July + Grapes September + Huckleberries July + Peaches August-September + Pears September + Pineapple June + Plums August + Quinces September + Raspberries July + Rhubarb All summer + Strawberries May-June + +For your canning you will need as your guide the charts on the pages +which follow. They are very simple and will tell you how to prepare +all the various fruits, whether or not they are to be blanched, and if +so exactly how many minutes, and how long to cook or sterilize the +products, according to the outfit you are using. + + + +CHART FOR CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +[A] NUMBER OF MINUTES TO BLANCH OR HOT-DIP +[B] IN HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212°F +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + KIND OF | [A] |[B] |[C] |[D] |[E] |[F] |REMARKS + FRUIT/PREPARATION | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + APRICOTS: To remove|1 to 2| 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + skins hot-dip and | | | | | | |medium-thick + cold-dip. Can be | | | | | | |sirup + canned with the | | | | | | | + skins. Pits give a | | | | | | | + good flavor | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + BLACKBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + BLUEBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CHERRIES: Wash, | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + remove stems, and | | | | | | |sirup if sour; + remove pits if | | | | | | |thin sirup if + desired. If pitted | | | | | | |sweet + save the juice | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + CURRANTS: Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CRANBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + DEWBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + FIGS: Wash and stem| None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Figs can be + | | | | | | |hot- dipped for + | | | | | | |a minute or two + | | | | | | |if desired. + | | | | | | |Hot-dipping + | | | | | | |shrinks the + | | | | | | |figs so more + | | | | | | |can be packed + | | | | | | |in a jar + | | | | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + and snip off stems | | | | | | |medium-thick + and blossom ends | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + GRAPES Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + HUCKLEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + PEACHES Blanch and | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 |*10 | X |*Use only 5 + cold-dip, then | | | | | | |pounds + remove skins. | | | | | | |pressure. If + | | | | | | |peaches are + | | | | | | |canned under + | | | | | | |more than 5 + | | | | | | |pounds of + | | | | | | |pressure they + | | | | | | |become + | | | | | | |flavorless and + | | | | | | | + PLUMS Wash; stones | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |For sweet plums + may be removed if | | | | | | |use thin or + desired. | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup; for sour + | | | | | | |plums use + | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RASPBERRIES pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RHUBARB Wash, cut | 1 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Be very careful + into ½ inch pieces.| | | | | | |not to hot-dip + Use sharp knife | | | | | | |the rhubarb + | | | | | | |more than one + | | | | | | |minute, for it + | | | | | | |gets mushy + | | | | | | | + STRAWBERRIES Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + over, wash and hull| | | | | | |medium-thick + | | | | | | |sirup + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + HARD FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | | | | | | + APPLES Pare, core |1½ to | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + and cut into halves| 2 | | | | | | + or smaller pieces | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PEARS Wash, pare or| 1½ | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + not as desired. | | | | | | | + Small pears may be | | | | | | | + canned whole or | | | | | | | + quartered | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PINEAPPLE Cut into | 5 | 30 | 30 | 25 | 25 | 18 |Use thin or + slices or inch | | | | | | |medium-thin + cubes. The cores | | | | | | |sirup + can be removed | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUINCES Remove | 6 | 40 | 40 | 30 | 25 | 20 |Apples, pears + skins and cores. | | | | | | |and quinces + Cut into convenient| | | | | | |should be + slices | | | | | | |dropped into + | | | | | | |salt water to + | | | | | | |keep fruit from + | | | | | | |turning brown. + | | | | | | |Use salt in the + | | | | | | |proportion of + | | | | | | |one + | | | | | | |tablespoonful + WINDFALL APPLES FOR| | | | | | |to one gallon + | | | | | | |of water. Use + | | | | | | |thin + | | | | | | | + PIE FILLING Cut | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + into halves | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUARTERED APPLES | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + FOR SALAD | | | | | | |and save the + | | | | | | |sugar for other + | | | | | | |purposes + | | | | | | | + CRAB APPLES Pare | None | 16 | 16 | 8 | 5 | 5 |Can in water or + and core | | | | | | |use thin sirup + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + CITRUS FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + ORANGES, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + LEMONS, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + ORANGE AND OTHER | None | 10 | 10 | 6 | 5 | 4 |Use thin sirup + CITRUS FRUITS, | | | | | | | + SLICED Slice with a| | | | | | | + sharp knife | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + FRUITS CANNED IN | 30 | 30 | 20 | 12 | 10 | | + WATER WITHOUT SUGAR| | | | | | | + SIRUP | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + +NOTE.--When cooking products in pint or half-pint jars deduct three or +four minutes from the time given above. When cooking in two-quart jars +add 3 or 4 minutes to time. The estimates given are for quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +VEGETABLES + + +It is practical to can all vegetables, even such difficult ones as +corn, peas and beans, by the cold-pack method of canning without using +any preservatives, if you will follow all directions, instructions and +the time-table accurately. Vegetable canning is a little more +complicated than fruit canning. + + +TOMATOES + +Every one likes canned tomatoes. In many homes more tomatoes are +canned than any other product. The housewife uses them for soups, for +sauces and for seasoning many meat dishes. Some women say: "I can +preserve everything but tomatoes. They always spoil. What do I do +wrong?" If the following directions are followed tomatoes will not +spoil. + +Tomatoes really are the easiest vegetable to can, because the period +of sterilization is short, and many jars may be canned in a day, or if +one is very busy a few jars may be canned daily without the +expenditure of a great deal of time. + +The best tomatoes for canning are those of moderate size, smooth and +uniformly ripe. When a tomato ripens unevenly or when it is misshapen, +it is difficult to peel, and the percentage of waste is high. Tomatoes +should not be picked when they are green or partly ripe, for the +flavor will not be so good as when they are allowed to remain upon +the vines until fully ripe. Care should be taken, however, not to +allow them to become overripe before canning. + +In no instance should a tomato with a rotten spot be canned, even +though the spot is cut out, for the occasional spoiled jar resulting +from this attempted saving will cost more than the partly spoiled +tomatoes are worth. If the housewife will can only uniformly ripe, +sound tomatoes, saving the small, uneven but sound fruit for tomato +_purée_, she will have a much better-looking pack and greater food +value at the close of the season. Yellow tomatoes may be canned in the +same manner as are the more common red varieties, except that it is +not necessary to remove the cores. + +First of all, grade for ripeness, size and quality; this is to insure +a high-grade product. We could, of course, can different sizes and +shades together, but uniform products are more pleasing to the eye and +will sterilize much more evenly. If the products are of the same +ripeness and quality, the entire pack will receive the proper degree +of cooking. + +Wash the tomatoes. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Put the +tomatoes in a wire basket, or lay them on a piece of cheesecloth or a +towel, twist the ends together to form a sack, and let this down into +the kettle. It is a good plan to slip a rubber band round the neck of +this sack to hold the ends in place. The ends should be long enough to +stand up out of the water and so avoid danger of burning the fingers +when removing the product. + +Have the water boiling hard. Lower the tomatoes into the boiling +water. This is called scalding the tomatoes. We scald the tomatoes to +loosen the skin. If the tomatoes are very ripe, one minute scalding +will be sufficient. The average length of time for tomatoes, just +perfect for canning, is one and a half minutes. Do not leave the +tomatoes in the hot water until the skins break, as this gives them a +fuzzy appearance. + +The scalding kettle always should be covered, to keep in all the heat +possible. Begin to time from the minute the product is immersed in the +boiling water. If you wait until the water comes back to a boil, you +will scald the product too long and have mushy tomatoes. + +Lift the tomatoes out of the hot water and plunge them immediately +into cold water, or hold them under the cold-water faucet. The +cold-dip makes them easier to handle, separates the skin from the +pulp, firms the texture, and coagulates the coloring matter so it +stays near the surface, giving them a rich, red color. Then the shock +due to the sudden change from hot to cold and back to hot again seems +to help kill the spores. Do not let the product stand in the cold-dip. +The water becomes lukewarm, softens the product and allows bacteria to +develop. + +Take the tomato in the left hand and with a sharp knife cut out the +core. Be careful not to cut into the fleshy portion or seed cells, for +this will scatter the seeds and pulp through the liquid, injuring the +appearance of the product. Cut out the core before removing the skin, +for the skin will protect the pulp and there will be less danger of +breaking the tomato. If the tomatoes are ripe and have been scalded +properly, the skin can be slipped off with the fingers. + +The jars, rubbers and tops should be ready. Glass jars should be hot, +so there will be no danger of breakage in setting them in the hot +water, and so they will not cool the water in the cooker below the +boiling point. + +Pack the tomatoes whole, pressing and shaking them well down together, +but not using force enough to crush them. + +Now we come to a point where tomatoes are different from most +vegetables. Beans, carrots, peas, and so on, have hot water added to +them. But as a large part of the tomato is water, no more is needed. +Another exception where no water is needed is with the "greens +family." So with tomatoes we add no water, but add one teaspoonful of +salt and one teaspoonful of sugar, just for seasoning, to every quart +jar. I think that tomatoes always are improved by the addition of a +little sugar, but this is not necessary and can be omitted, as also +can be the salt. + +The salt in canning does not act as a preservative, but as seasoning; +so if for any reason you forget the salt, do not be alarmed. Your +products will keep perfectly without the salt. + + +THE WAY TO SEAL + +The products are in the hot jars now. The jars do not need to be full +in order to keep. If you were canning by the "open-kettle" method, the +air in the partly filled jar would not have been sterilized, and might +contain the bacteria which cause the product to ferment or mold. But +by the cold pack, the air in the can is sterilized while the product +is being sterilized; and if the can is closed immediately after +cooking, a single spoonful may be canned in a two-quart jar and the +product will keep indefinitely. + +Place Rubber and Cover on Jar. Fit the rubber. Use good rubbers and +see that they lie flat and fit close up to the can. Put the covers in +place. + +Do Not Seal Glass Jars Tight. If using screw-top jars screw each +cover down until it catches, then turn a quarter of a round back; or +screw down with the thumb and little finger, not using force but +stopping when the cover catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +If using glass-top jars, with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while processing, because +the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is not loose enough +to allow the steam to escape, the pressure may blow the rubber out or +break the jar. + +When canning in tin we cap and tip the cans at once. The tin will +bulge out, but is strong enough to withstand the pressure, and when +the contents cool the can will come back into shape. + +The jars are now ready for the canner. Tomatoes sterilized under +boiling water require twenty-two minutes; in condensed-steam cooker, +twenty-two minutes; in water-seal, eighteen minutes; in +steam-pressure, with five pounds, fifteen minutes, and in the pressure +cooker, at ten or fifteen pounds, ten minutes. + +If you use the homemade outfit or any water-bath outfit be sure the +water is boiling when the jars of tomatoes are lowered into the +canner. Time lost in bringing the contents to the point of +sterilization softens the tomatoes and results in inferior goods. Use +the ordinary good sense with which you have been endowed in handling +the jars and you will have no breakage. At the end of the sterilizing +period, remove the jars. + +In taking canned goods from boiling hot water, care is needed to see +that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows +and doors while lifting the jars out, for a sudden draft might break +them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes, if the +covers are screwed down too tight, the pressure of the steam from the +inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a +thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. In +case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber, it should be replaced by a new one and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert to test the joint and cool. If the seal is not perfect, correct +the fault, and return the jar to the cooker for five minutes if hot, +ten minutes if jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool and +then tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only a half inch, holding it over the +table so that, in case the lid does not hold, the jar and contents +will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the +cover with a ruler. An imperfect seal will cause a hollow sound. + +Tomato Purée. Small, misshapen, unevenly ripened tomatoes may be +converted into tomato _purée_. The tomatoes should be washed, run +through a colander to remove skins and cores, concentrated by cooking +to about half the original volume, and packed in the jars. Rubbers and +tops should then be placed in position and the product sterilized for +the same length of time as for canned tomatoes. _Purée_ even may be +kept in bottles sealed with sterilized corks and dipped several times +in paraffin. + + +HOW OTHER VEGETABLES ARE CANNED + +All other vegetables are canned exactly like tomatoes, with two +exceptions. Tomatoes are scalded. All other vegetables are blanched. +We scald tomatoes to loosen the skins and to start the flow of the +coloring matter, which is later arrested or coagulated by the +cold-dip. + +Blanching is scalding, only for a longer time. Scalding is never for +more than two minutes. Blanching covers from three to thirty minutes. + +We blanch beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, and so +on, for three to ten minutes. We blanch these vegetables to eliminate +any objectionable acids or bitter flavors which may be present, and +thus improve the flavor; to reduce the bulk so we can pack closer; to +start the flow of the coloring matter; to improve the texture of the +vegetables by making them more tender, and to improve the appearance +by helping to make clear the liquid in the jar. Blanching is what +makes for success in the cold-pack method of canning. Blanching is +_very_ important and must be carefully and accurately done. + +Let me repeat about blanching: Have the kettle of blanching water +_boiling vigorously, completely immerse_ the product in the boiling +water, cover the kettle _immediately_ and begin to time the product. +Do not stand with the cover in hand and wait for the water to come +back to the boil, for, of course, it stopped boiling for a second when +you lowered into it the cold product. If you cover the kettle the +water will quickly reboil. Do not keep wondering if it is boiling and +take off the cover to see. All these may seem foolish precautions, but +it is necessary to follow directions accurately. + +And remember, all things that are scalded or blanched must be followed +immediately by a cold plunge or "cold-dip." The scalding or blanching +is the "hot-dip," and this must be followed by the "cold-dip." You may +be asking, what is the point of this "cold-dip"? It is a very logical +question. + +We "cold-dip" a product to harden the pulp under the skin and thus +permit the removal of the skin without injury to the pulp; to +coagulate the coloring matter and make it harder to dissolve during +the sterilization period and to make it easier to handle the products +in packing, and to subject the product to a sudden shock by quick +change in temperature. + + +STEPS IN CANNING VEGETABLES + +If you will follow these steps for all vegetable canning you cannot +help but be successful: + +1. Clean jars and test rubbers. If rubbers do not return to normal +shape after stretching, do not use. + +2. Prepare material to be canned, according to directions given on +chart. + +3. Hot-dip--blanch or scald--the prepared food. This process consists +of immersing the prepared product in boiling water for different +lengths of time, according to the material to be canned. See chart. +Hot-dipping shrinks the product and enables one to pack more material +in a jar. + +4. Cold-dip the material. This process consists of plunging the +blanched or scalded food into cold water, which makes it more easily +handled. Be sure the water is cold; the colder the better. + +Take the product out immediately and let it drain. _Don't let any food +soak in the cold water._ + +From this point on, speed is highly important. The blanched vegetables +which are slightly warm must not be allowed to remain out of the jars +a moment longer than is necessary. + +Remove skins when required, and as each article is pared cut it into +pieces of proper size and + +5. Pack directly into the clean, scalded cans or jars. Pack as solidly +as possible, being careful not to bruise or mash soft products. Pack +the product to within three-eighths of an inch of the top. Lima beans, +navy beans, peas, corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell, so pack them +within only one inch of the top of the jar. + +6. Add seasoning. One teaspoonful salt to every quart jar of +vegetables, and an equal amount of sugar to tomatoes, corn and peas if +desired. + +7. Add boiling water to within a quarter inch of top to all +vegetables, except tomatoes and greens. Tomatoes contain ninety-four +per cent water, so none should be added. Tomato juice can be used if +desired. Greens are canned in just the water that clings to the +leaves after the cold-dip. + +8. Adjust rubber rings and the covers of the jars; partially seal. + +9. Sterilize--see time-table on pages following. + +10. Remove from canner and completely seal. Test for leaks. Cool jars +as rapidly as possible, without drafts striking them. + +Rapid cooling of the product prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture of the product. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR VARIOUS VEGETABLES + +Greens. No water is added to greens. Ninety percent of greens is +water. They are high in mineral matter and we must preserve that. + +Asparagus. Remove string before packing in jar. Can or dry tough ends +for soup. If asparagus is packed in jars as whole stalks, pack with +the tips up. + +Tomatoes. Remove skins before packing. Tomatoes may be canned whole or +in pieces. Skin, cook and strain imperfect tomatoes. Use this for +liquid; as 94 per cent of the tomato is water, no water is needed. + +Eggplants. Make slices about ½ to ¾ of an inch thick. Do not add salt, +as it causes eggplants to turn dark. + +Pumpkin and squash. If you do not wish to scrape out of the shells you +can remove seeds, pare and cut into small blocks of uniform size. Then +blanch. + +Sweet corn. Corn expands a little in processing, and for this reason +jars should not be filled quite full. Corn that has reached the dough +stage before being packed will have a cheesy appearance after +canning. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the cold-dip water. + +Field corn. This product is commonly known as corn-club breakfast +food. The corn should be selected between the milk and the dough +stage. Wide-mouthed glass jars or tin cans should be used for canning +this product. Avoid packing container too full, as the product swells +during the sterilization period. The corn should be canned the same +day it is picked from the field if possible. After this product has +been sterilized and cooked and stored away it will form a solid, +butter-like mass which may be cut into convenient slices for toasting, +frying and baking purposes. + +Mushrooms. Do not fail to blanch and cold dip. After opening +containers remove the mushrooms immediately and use them as quickly as +possible. + +Sweet peppers. Place the peppers in the oven and bake them until the +skins separate from the meat. Remove the skin. Pack in hot jars. Add 1 +teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Add boiling water. + +Lima beans. Lima beans can be either blanched or steamed. If blanched +allow 5 minutes; if in live steam allow 10. + +Wax or string beans. Beans can be canned whole or cut into uniform +pieces. + +Cabbage and cauliflower. Cabbage and cauliflower should be soaked in +cold brine (½ lb. salt to 12 quarts water) for one hour before +blanching. + +Brussels sprouts. Use small solid heads. + +Peas. A cloudy or hazy appearance of the liquid indicates that the +product was roughly handled in blanching and cold dipping, or that +broken peas were not removed before packing. + +Carrots and parsnips. Carrots can be packed whole, in slices or in +cross-section pieces. Skin of parsnips can be scraped off after +blanching and cold dipping. + +Beets. Small beets that run 40 to a quart are the most suitable size +for first-class packs. Well-canned beets will show a slight loss of +color when removed from the canner, but will brighten up in a few +days. + +Turnips. Scrape skin after blanching and cold dipping. + +Corn and tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to every quart of +mixture. Mix 2 parts of tomatoes with 1 part corn. One teaspoonful of +sugar improves the flavor. + +Corn, tomatoes and string beans. Use 1 part of corn, 1 part of green +string beans and 3 parts of tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt and 1 +teaspoonful of sugar to every quart jar. + +CHARTS FOR CANNING ALL VEGETABLES AND GREENS + +[A] SCALDING OR BLANCHING MINUTES +[B] IN BOILING WATER OR HOMEMADE OUTFIT (212°F.) +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + VEGETABLES/ NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 1--Greens, Domestic and Wild +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ALL GREENS--SPINACH, |Steam in | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at +BEET TOPS, CHARD, |colander or | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. +DANDELIONS, ETC. |in steamer | | | | | + Pick over; wash in |until wilted| | | | | + several waters. |Takes about | | | | | + |15 minutes. | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 2 --Special Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ASPARAGUS |Blanch tough| 90 | 90 | 60 | 50 |25, at + Wash, remove woody |ends 4 |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)| |10 lbs. + ends; cut to fit |minutes, tip| | | | | + jar; tie in bundles.|ends 2 | | | | | + | minutes. | | | | | + | | | | | | +TOMATOES Select | Scald 1½ | 22 | 22 | 18 | 18 |10, at + fresh, ripe, firm | | | | | |10 lbs. + tomatoes. Skins | | | | | | + will slip off after| | | | | | + scalding and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +EGGPLANTS Remove skin| Blanch 3 | 60 | 60 | 50 | 45 |30, at + after blanching | | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |10 lbs. + and cold dipping. | | | | | | + Slice crosswise and| | | | | | + pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +PUMPKIN AND SQUASH | Blanch 5 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections; | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + remove seeds; | | | | | | + scrape shells after| | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--SWEET | 5 on cob | 180 | 180 | 120 | 90 |60, at + Cut corn from cob, | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)|10 lbs. + blanch immediately | | | | | | + after and cold dip.| | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--FIELD | 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |50, at + Remove husk and | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + silk. Cut the corn | | | | | | + from the cob after | | | | | | + it has been blanched| | | | | | + and cold dipped. | | | | | | + Feed the corn to a | | | | | | + food chopper and | | | | | | + grind to a pulp. | | | | | | + Cook this product | | | | | | + in a kettle, add | | | | | | + 2/3 teaspoonful | | | | | | + sugar and 1/3 | | | | | | + teaspoonful salt to| | | | | | + each quart. Cook | | | | | | + (stir while cooking)| | | | | | + until the product | | | | | | + has assumed a | | | | | | + thickened or | | | | | | + pastelike mass. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +MUSHROOMS If small, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 50 |30, at + can them whole; if | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)|(1-1/3 | |10 lbs. + large they may be | | | | hr) | | + cut into sections. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +SWEET PEPPERS Use | .. | 90 | 90 | 75 | 60 |40, at + either green or red| |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)|(1¾ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + peppers. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 3--Pod Vegetables and Other Green Products +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +BEANS--LIMA | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | | | +BEANS--WAX OR STRING | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Wash and string. | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | | | +CABBAGE Use small | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + solid heads of | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + cabbage. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CAULIFLOWER Use | 3 | 60 | 60 | 40 | 30 |20, at + flowered portion of| | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |15 lbs. + cauliflower. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BRUSSELS SPROUTS | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + and remove core. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +PEAS | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. Add| | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 to + 1 teaspoonful of | | | | | |15 lbs. + salt and 1 tea- | | | | | | + spoonful of sugar | | | | | | + toevery quart. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 4--Roots and Tuber Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +CARROTS, PARSNIPS, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at +SALSIFY | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + Remove skin by | | | | hr) | | + scraping after | | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BEETS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + To retain the color| |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + of beets leave 3 or| | | | hr) | | + 4 inches of the | | | | | | + stem and all the | | | | | | + root on while | | | | | | + blanching. After | | | | | | + cold dipping, the | | | | | | + skin may be removed| | | | | | + Scrape the skin. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +TURNIPS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + Wash thoroughly | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + with a vegetable | | | | hr) | | + brush. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +Class 5--Vegetable Combinations +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +CORN AND TOMATOES | | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + Prepare individual | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + vegetables and then| | | | | | + combine and pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN, TOMATOES AND | | | | | | +STRING BEANS | | | | | | + Corn | 3 | | | | | + Tomatoes | 1½ | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + String beans | 5 | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + +Count from time when water begins to boil (bubbles all over). This +time schedule is for both pint and quart jars. Add 30 minutes to time +of sterilizing for 2-quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +SOUPS + + +After one has learned how to can fruits and vegetables successfully, +the next thing to attempt is the canning of soups. + +Soups may be canned with or without meat. We make one variety which is +a pure vegetable soup. We use no stock or meat, and can it in its own +juice or liquor, thus using no water. + +When we wish to use it we dilute it three or four times and serve it +as a vegetable soup or, more frequently, when we have chicken bones or +any meat bones on hand, we add a can of this concentrated vegetable +mixture to the bones and make a delicious stock soup. + +I will give this recipe as I have given it to many friends, all of +whom have pronounced it excellent: + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes + 1 Head cabbage + 1 Dozen carrots + 1 White turnip + 3 Pounds string beans + 1 Pound okra + 3 Red peppers + 1 Peck spinach + 2 Pounds asparagus + 6 Small beets + 6 Ears sweet corn + +Scald the tomatoes by placing them in a wire basket and plunging them +into boiling water for one and a half minutes. Cold-dip them +immediately. After removing the core and stem end of the tomato, the +skin slips right off. Save all the tomato juice. Cut the tomatoes into +quarters. Put into a large pail or bucket with the juice. Blanch the +cabbage, carrots, turnip, string beans, okra and sweet red peppers +five minutes. Cold-dip. Of course you blanch and cold-dip each product +separately. Cut each vegetable after it is blanched and cold-dipped +into small cubes and add to the tomatoes. + +Spinach must be carefully washed to remove all grit and sand. All +greens must be washed through several waters to cleanse them +thoroughly. + +Instead of blanching the spinach in a kettle of boiling water, as we +do the other vegetables, we steam it by placing it in a colander over +boiling water or in a regulation steamer with tightly fitting cover, +such as is used for steaming suet puddings and brown bread. If you can +with a steam-pressure canner or a pressure cooker, then steam the +spinach there. If we boiled the spinach for fifteen or twenty minutes +we would lose a quantity of the mineral salts, the very thing we aim +to get into our systems when we eat spinach, dandelion greens, Swiss +chard and other greens. After the blanching or steaming comes the cold +dip. + +There is something about blanching asparagus, either for soups or when +canned alone, that is worth knowing. Instead of blanching the whole +stalk of asparagus for the same length of time, we use a little +discretion, giving the tougher, harder ends a full four minutes' +blanching, but allowing the tender tip ends only two minutes. You are +possibly wondering how that is done. + +Tie the asparagus stalks in bunches and put the bunches with all the +tips standing one way on a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth or snap +rubber bands round it, and then stand the asparagus in boiling water +in an upright position for two minutes; next lay the asparagus +lengthwise in the blanching water for another two minutes, and you +have accomplished your purpose. You have given the tougher parts two +minutes' more blanching than the tender parts. Use a deep enough +kettle so the asparagus will be completely covered when laid +lengthwise. After the blanching, cold-dip the asparagus. + +Wash the beets. Leave two inches of the top and all the tail on the +beets while blanching. Blanch for five minutes, then cold-dip. Next +scrape off the skin, top and tail. The tops can be put right into the +soup too. Any surplus tops can be steamed with the spinach and can be +treated similarly. + +Blanch corn on the cob five minutes. Cold-dip. Cut the corn from the +cob, cutting from tip to butt end. Add the corn to the other +vegetables. Add no water. Pack the mixed vegetables into clean glass +jars; add one level teaspoonful of salt to every jar; partially seal; +cook one hour and a half in wash-boiler or other homemade outfit. At +the end of that period remove jars from canner, seal tight, and the +work is done. + +Of course you are interested in the cost of this soup. Most of the +ingredients came right from our garden. We had to buy the okra and the +red peppers, but I figured everything just as if I had to buy it from +the market; and on this basis, the cost of our soup would have been +only seven and a half cents a can. We canned it in tin, using size +Number Two, which is the same as pint size in glass jars. + +Another vegetable soup without stock, dried beans and peas being used, +is made as follows: + +Soak six pounds of Lima beans and four pounds of dry peas over night. +Boil each thirty minutes. Blanch sixteen pounds of carrots, six pounds +of cabbage, three pounds of celery, six pounds of turnips, four pounds +of okra, one pound of onions, and four pounds of parsley for three +minutes and dip in cold water quickly. Prepare the vegetables and chop +into small cubes. Chop the onions and celery extra fine. Mix all of +them thoroughly and season to taste. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. +Fill with boiling water. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; sixty minutes if using water-seal outfit or +five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure +cooker. + +In many homes cream of tomato soup is the favorite. To make this soup +the housewife uses a tomato pulp and combines it with milk and +seasonings. You can can a large number of jars of this pulp and have +it ready for the cream soup. To make and can this pulp follow these +directions: + +Tomato Pulp. Place the tomatoes in a wire basket or piece of +cheesecloth and plunge into boiling water for one and a half minutes. +Plunge into cold water. Remove the skins and cores. Place the tomatoes +in a kettle and boil thirty minutes. Pass the tomato pulp through a +sieve. Pack in glass jars while hot and add a level teaspoonful of +salt per quart. Partially seal glass jars. Sterilize twenty minutes if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighteen +minutes if using water-seal, or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +fifteen minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soup Stock. To make the soup stock which is the foundation of all +the stock soups, use this recipe: + +Secure twenty-five pounds of beef hocks, joints and bones containing +marrow. Strip off the fat and meat and crack bones with hatchet or +cleaver. Put the broken bones in a thin cloth sack and place this in a +large kettle containing five gallons of cold water. Simmer--do not +boil--for six or seven hours. Do not salt while simmering. Skim off +all fat. This should make about five gallons of stock. Pack hot in +glass jars, bottles or enameled or lacquered tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize forty minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; thirty minutes if +using water-seal or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; twenty-five +minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soups made with soup stock are many and varied. One can utilize the +things at hand and change the distinctive flavor from year to year. I +will give you a few good specimen recipes which if followed will give +good results: + +Vegetable Soup. Soak a quarter pound dried Lima beans and one pound +unpolished rice for twelve hours. Cook a half pound pearl barley for +two hours. Blanch one pound carrots, one pound onions, one medium-size +potato and one red pepper for three minutes and cold-dip. Prepare the +vegetables and cut into small cubes. Mix thoroughly Lima beans, rice, +barley, carrots, onions, potato and red pepper. Fill glass jars or the +enameled tin cans three-fourths full of the above mixture of +vegetables and cereals. Make a smooth paste of a half pound of wheat +flour and blend in five gallons soup stock. Boil three minutes and add +four ounces salt. Pour this stock over vegetables and fill cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety +minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using a water-seal or five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Pea Soup. Soak eight pounds of dried peas over night. Cook +until soft. Mash fine. Add the mashed peas to five gallons of soup +stock and bring to boil. Pass the boiling liquid through a fine sieve. +Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour and add paste, ten ounces of +sugar and three ounces of salt to the soup stock. Cook until soup +begins to thicken. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighty minutes if +using water-seal outfit; seventy minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Potato Soup. Boil one and a half pounds of potatoes, sliced +thin, and five gallons of soup stock for ten minutes. Add three ounces +of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper and a half pound of butter +and boil slowly for five minutes. Make three tablespoonfuls of flour +into smooth paste and add to the above. Cook three minutes and pack in +glass jars or tin cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety minutes if using a hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a +water-seal outfit; sixty-five minutes if using a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using a pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Bean Soup. Soak three pounds of dried beans twelve hours in cold +water. Cut two pounds of ham into quarter-inch cubes and place in a +small sack. Place beans, ham and four gallons of water in kettle and +boil slowly until the beans are very soft. Remove the ham and beans +from the liquor and mash the beans fine. Return ham and mashed beans +to the liquor, add five gallons of soup stock and seasoning, and bring +to boil. Pack into jars or cans while hot. Partially seal jars. Cap +and tip tin cans. Process two hours if using hot-water-bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if using water-seal outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; sixty +minutes if using pressure cooker. + +Okra Soup. Slice eight pounds okra into thin slices the round way. +Blanch ten minutes and cold-dip. Boil one and a half pounds rice for +twenty-five minutes. Mix okra and rice and fill cans or jars half +full. To five gallons soup stock add five ounces salt, a quarter +teaspoonful of coriander seed and a quarter teaspoonful of powdered +cloves, and bring to boil. Fill remaining portion of jars or cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process two hours if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes +if using water-seal outfit; seventy-five minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; sixty minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Chicken-Soup Stock. Place thirty pounds chicken in ten gallons of +cold water and simmer for five hours. Remove meat and bones, then +strain. Add sufficient water to make ten gallons of stock. Fill glass +jars or tin cans with hot stock. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. This stock is used to make soup where the term +"chicken-soup stock" is used. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Broth With Rice. For each gallon of soup stock use twelve +ounces of rice. Boil rice thirty minutes. Fill jars or tin cans +two-thirds full of rice and the remainder with soup stock. Partially +seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Gumbo. Cut two pounds ham into small cubes and boil thirty +minutes. Mince three pounds chicken and chop half a pound of onions +fine. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour. Add above to five +gallons of chicken-soup stock. Then add a half pound butter and a +quarter pound salt and boil ten minutes. Next add three ounces +powdered okra mixed with one pint water. Pack into glass jars or tin +cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. +Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using water-seal +outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + + +TOMATO ACID CHECKS BACTERIA + +Some women who have canned soup tell me it spoiled or tasted "sourish +and smelled sourish too." This is what we call "flat sour." It may +happen to any vegetable you can, as well as to the soups. "Flat sour" +affects peas, beans, asparagus and corn more than other vegetables. If +the vegetables have been picked for some time and the bacteria have +had a chance "to work," and you are not exceedingly careful about your +canning, you may develop "flat sour" in the soup. If you let one +little spore of this bacteria survive all is lost. Its moist growing +place is favorable to development, particularly if not much acid is +present. One little spore left in a jar will multiply in twenty hours +to some twenty millions of bacteria. This twenty million can stand on +the point of a needle, so a can could acquire quite a large population +in a short time. Bacteria do not like acids, so it is always a good +idea to have tomatoes in your soup mixture, and get the tomatoes into +the stone crock early in the game. The tomato acid will safeguard the +other vegetables which lack acid. + +If you are careless about the blanching and cold-dipping--that is, not +doing these full time--if you work too slowly in getting the products +into jars and then let the full jars stand in the warm atmosphere, you +are pretty sure to develop "flat sour." + +Place each jar in the canner as it is packed. The first jars in will +not be affected by the extra cooking. Have the water just below the +boiling point as you put in each jar. When you have the canner full +bring the water to the boiling point as quickly as possible and begin +to count cooking or sterilizing time from the moment it does boil. + +Some women make the mistake at the end of the cooking period of +letting the jars remain in the boiling water, standing on the false +bottom of the canner until they are cool enough to handle with no +danger of burning the hands. This slow method of cooling not only +tends to create "flat sour," but it is apt to result in cloudy-looking +jars and in mushy vegetables. + +For this reason you should have in your equipment a lifter with which +you can lift out the hot jars without the hands touching them. If you +use a rack with wire handles this answers the same purpose. + +This "flat sour," which is not at all dangerous from the standpoint of +health, must not be confused with the botulinus bacteria, which is an +entirely different thing. + +"Flat sour," perfectly harmless, appears often with inexperienced +canners. Botulinus, harmful, appears rarely. You need not be at all +alarmed about eating either "flat sour" or botulinus, because the odor +from spoiled goods is so distasteful--it really resembles rancid +cheese--that you would never get a spoon of it to your mouth. + +If you are debating whether this jar or that jar of soup or vegetables +is spoiled, do not _taste_ the contents of the jar. _Smell_ it. +Tasting might poison you if you happened on the botulinus bacteria, +which is so rare it need alarm no one; whereas smelling is perfectly +safe. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR SOUPS + + +GRAY SOUP WITHOUT STOCK + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes Scald 1½ Remove core and stem end. + 1 Head cabbage 5} + 1 Dozen carrots 5} + 1 White turnip 5} Cut into cubes after blanching + 2 Pounds string beans 5} + 1 Pound okra 5} + 3 Red peppers 5} + + 1 Peck spinach Steam 15 minutes or until + thoroughly wilted. + 2 Pounds asparagus 4 Cut into small pieces after + blanching. + 6 Small beets 5 Cut into slices after blanching. + 6 Ears sweet corn 5 Cut from cob after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT STOCK, USING DRY LEGUMES + + 6 Pounds dried Lima beans} { Soak over night, then boil + 4 Pounds dried peas } { for one half hour. + 16 Pounds carrots 3} + 6 Pounds cabbage 3} Cut into small cubes after + 3 Pounds celery 3} blanching. + 6 Pounds turnips 3} + 4 Pounds okra 3 Cut into slices after blanching. + 1 Pound onions 3 Chop fine after blanching. + 4 Pounds parsley 3 Cut into pieces after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Stock Soups) + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + 25 Pounds beef hocks, + joints and bones Simmer for 6 or 7 hours. + 5 Gallons water Should make 5 Gallons + stock. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 40. + In condensed steam outfit, 40. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 30. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 30. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 25. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITH STOCK + + ¼ Pounds dried Lima beans Soak 12 hours. + 1 Pound rice Soak 12 hours. + ¼ Pound pearl barley Cook 2 hours. + 1 Pounds carrots 3} + 1 Pounds onions 3} Cut into small cubes after + 1 Potato 3} blanching. + 1 Red Pepper 3} + ½ Pound flour } { Make paste of flour and soup stock. + 5 Gallons soup stock } { Boil 3 minutes and add salt + 4 Ounces salt } { Pour over vegetables and fill cans. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF PEA SOUP + + 8 Pounds dried peas { Soak over-night and cook until soft. + { Mash peas fine. + 5 Gallons soup stock Add stock and boil. Put through sieve. + ½ Pound flour } { Make paste of flour, sugar and salt + 10 Ounces sugar } { and add to stock. Cook until thick. + 3 Ounces salt } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 80. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 70. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF POTATO SOUP + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 1½ Pounds potatoes } { Boil potatoes and stock + sliced thin } { 10 minutes. Add salt, + 5 Gallons soup stock } { pepper, butter and boil + 3 Ounces salt } { 5 minutes. Make flour + ¼ Teaspoonful pepper } { into paste and add. + ½ Pound butter } { Cook 3 minutes and can. + 3 Tablespoonfuls flour } + Boil potatoes and stock } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 65. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +BEAN SOUP + + 3 Pounds dried beans Soak 12 hours. + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into ¼ inch cubes. + 4 Gallons water } { Boil beans, ham and water + 5 Gallons soup stock } { until beans are soft. + Salt } { Mash beans fine. Add + { stock and salt. Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 120. + In condensed steam outfit, 120. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 60. + + +CHICKEN SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Chicken Soups) + + 30 Pounds chicken } + 10 Gallons cold water. } + Should make 10 gallons } Simmer 5 hours. Can. + stock when finished } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CHICKEN GUMBO + + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into small cubes + and boil 30 minutes. + 3 Pounds chicken Mince chicken. + ½ Pound onions Chop onions. + ½ Pound flour Make paste of flour. + 5 Gallons chicken soup + stock Add all this to soup stock. + ½ Pound butter } + ¼ Pound salt } { Add butter and salt. Boil + 3 Ounces powdered okra } { 10 minutes. Then add + mixed with pint of } { okra mixed with water. + water } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + +For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly +acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is just a +little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or overripe +fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. This +fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. Such +fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin and +are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits. + +The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of +pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, +though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other +marmalades. + +Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be made +into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and lemons to +them while cooking. + +So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is whether or +not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed over jelly +that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn the simple +test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains pectin or not is +a very easy matter. + +Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol--90 to 95 per cent.--and add +to it one tablespoonful of _cooked_ juice that has been cooled. The +effect of the alcohol is to bring together the pectin in a jelly-like +mass. If a large quantity of pectin is present it will appear in one +mass or clot which may be gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I +said _cooked_ juice. It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not +found in the juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the +cooked juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice. + +There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, raw +grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin. + +This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but it also +gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to juice. If +three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous mass or clot +this indicates that you should use three-fourths as much sugar as +juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less sugar. If the +pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin to make the +jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for flavoring ice cream +or some form of cooking. + +By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the jelly +texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be better. + +After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by washing, +stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an acid-proof +kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to prevent +burning--about one cup of water to every four or five quarts of fruit. +The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so forth. With less +juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough water to cover, or +follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. Use the cores, skins and +seeds; these improve the flavor and color of the jelly. + +Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered kettle, +stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When the simmering +point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked wooden masher. +When the fruit is tender or has a transparent appearance, it is ready +to strain. + +The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a large +mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie opposite +corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a flannel or +felt bag for straining the juice. + +What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When this +Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty +minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so many +housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do this, +empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving kettle, +cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then cover, bring +slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice that drips out +is called Extraction Two. + +The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out whether +there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin is present, +you can repeat the operation and get Extraction Three. + +Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you can +get as many as five extractions. + +You may say, "Why bother with extractions--why not squeeze the juice +and be done with it?" You will get clearer, better-flavored and more +glasses of jelly if you will make the extractions than if you squeeze +the jelly bag. + +I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but usually +combine Extraction Two and Three. + +The next step in jelly making is vitally important--that is, how much +sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is where many +housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the same proportion +of sugar to all juices. + +To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of sugar +must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough or +unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must be +used. + +Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in pectin +that they require equal amounts of sugar and juice--that is, to every +cup of extracted currant and grape juice we add one cup of sugar. + +Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup of +sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water in +the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of +juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples. + +It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large amount +of water is added than from the juicy fruits. + +I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the fruit +juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the boiling, +in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should the sugar be +hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the sugar in the +middle of the jelly-making process than at the beginning or the end. +Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, so as to lose as little +sugar as possible. + +If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and thus +the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it in a +granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, and stir +occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it. + +After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as quickly +as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent boiling. A +steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will produce good +results. + +Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from eight +to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or five +minutes. + +Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty +minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen minutes. + +The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking +thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. It +is the one sure, reliable test. + +The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you want a +very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it +immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees. + +If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour the +boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held horizontally. +If the sirup is done two drops will break simultaneously from the side +of the spoon. + +Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw a path +through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and the juice +does not run together, the jellying point has been reached. + +When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from the +fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized +glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to +prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full. + +Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at one +time. If new at the game make only four, because there is danger of +the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be removed. + +When the jellies are well set cover them with _hot_, not merely +melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs that may +fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the clean tin or +aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool place after proper +labeling. + + +STEPS IN JELLY MAKING + +1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and +contains a large amount of pectin. + +2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth. + +3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash +berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added if +necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small pieces; add +half as much water as fruit. + +4. Pour into dampened bag. + +5. Drain through closely woven bag. + +6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of sugar +to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of pectin, the +fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different fruits. To +make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold cooked fruit +juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake gently. Allow to stand +one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a lump add +three-fourths as much sugar as juice in making jelly. If the +precipitate--pectin--is not held together in a lump or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, add less sugar in +proportion to juice. If less than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to +make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and +so forth. + +7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook. + +8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or midway +in the process. + +9. Stir until sugar is dissolved. + +10. Cook rapidly, but not hard. + +11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a clean +spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from it. If +done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of spoon. Some +prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of spoon. Better still, +use thermometer. + +12. Remove from fire and skim. + +13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses. + +14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a little +coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily. + +15. Cover, label and store. + +No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter into +consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the amount of +water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of sugar to juice; +the more sugar used, the less time needed. + + +JAMS AND BUTTERS + +Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies. + +1. Carefully wash berries and fruits. + +2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not +convenient, use measuring cup. + +3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces. + +4. Add enough water to prevent sticking. + +5. Stir to keep from burning. + +6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken. + +7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part fruit. +That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a pound of +sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup of sugar. + +8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently. + +9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. When a +little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is thick +enough. + +10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or crystallized +ginger can be added if desired. + +11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of the +top. + +12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and store. + +Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made much as +are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and grapefruit +marmalades. + +Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and raisins +are often added to conserves. + +Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least +three-fourths of the weight of the fruit. + +If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or other wax +tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the cold-pack method +of canning. You may have containers with screw or bail tops which you +wish to use in this way. The following is one recipe showing how to +proceed. + +Cherry Preserves. Place one gallon of water in a kettle and add ten +pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen minutes. Add +twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until product is boiling at +a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in shallow pans. Pack into +glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip if +using enameled tin cans. If using a hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize +twenty minutes; if using a water-seal outfit, a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit or a pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen +minutes. Remove jars. Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the +joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching and store. When +using pressure-cooker outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during +period of sterilization. + +Fruit Juices. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and delicious drink +and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries and other small +fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a cloth sack, heated +for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs freely, and allowed to +drip. + +Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the +sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of the +bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 degrees, or +until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the cooker, and keep +at this temperature one hour and a half to two hours; or heat to 200 +degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise to the top of the water, +and hold at this temperature for thirty minutes. The hot water comes +up to the neck of the bottle. Cork without removing the cotton. If +canned in jars close the jar partly, and seal tight after cooking. + +Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a higher +temperature injures the flavor. + +Strawberry Preserves. 1. Add thirty-five ounces of sugar to one-half +pint of water; bring to a boil and skim. + +With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively +without floating and no sirup will be left over. + +To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds of +washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it +registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical thermometer. +If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is very +heavy--about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum. + +Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of the +hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as possible. +Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not fasten tightly. + +Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if possible. +Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the boiling water +for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least twenty-five +minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the conclusion of the +operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap to make sure that +the seal is absolutely tight. + +Recipe Number 2. The following method is preferred by some because +it leaves more of the natural color in the preserves: + +To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add +twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour +juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook to +222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack and +sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for all +other berries. + +When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the table, +they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick sirup +which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a cooling +summer drink. + +Strawberries--Sun Preserves. Select firm ripe berries; hull and +rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a single layer; sprinkle +sugar over them. Pour over them a thick sirup made of one quart of +water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled until very thick. + +Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them to +stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly glasses +and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin cans. Put +the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or seal if +using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time given below +for the particular type of outfit used: + + MINUTES + Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial 20 + Water seal, 214 degrees 15 + Steam pressure 10 + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, and test +the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent bleaching. + +When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on preserves, +remember to keep the valve open during the sterilizing. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + +Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a fine +flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter apples are +best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly in the spring, +add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple juice. + +Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple. + +Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious juices and +shrubs for summer beverages. + +The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 minutes. + +Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are rubbed +through a sieve. + +Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good +combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and strawberries. + +Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, pear and +pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin. + +One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious jelly; +currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 to July +3. + +Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days. + +Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too much +sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are satisfactory. + +If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than do +green-as-grass gooseberries. + +Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to test +for pectin before completing the process, to save time and effort. + +Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for conserves. + +An underripe, acid plum is best. + +Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly. + +Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit +being used for preserving. + +Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a rain, for +they will have absorbed so much water as to make it difficult, without +excessive boiling, to get the juice to "jell." + +Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. It +will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an otherwise +expensive jam "go a long way." + +Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized in +many ways. + +Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges. + +Lemon Marmalade. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are sliced, put in +kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 hours; then boil 2 +hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour longer. + +Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are +usually combined with grapefruit. + +All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh and not +overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if made from +fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are +still green. + +CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + + + KIND OF FRUIT|CHARACTER OF| HOW TO | AMOUNT OF | AMOUNT OF + | FRUIT | PREPARE |WATER NEEDED| SUGAR NEEDED + | | |FOR COOKING | FOR JELLYING + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + APPLES, SOUR | Excellent | Wash, |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly |discard any | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | unsound | as fruit | cupful of + | | portions, | | juice + | | cut into | | + | | small | | + | | pieces. | | + | | Include | | + | | | | + APRICOTS |Not suitable|Leave a few |For jam use | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | stones in |just enough | sugar to 1 + | making. |for flavor. | water to | cupful of + | Excellent | | keep from | apricots for + | for jam. | | burning | jam + | | | | + BLACKBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | | quarts of | cupful of + | | | berries | juice + | | | | + BLUEBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + |making; make| | quarts of | cupful of + | a sweet | | berries | juice + | jelly | | | + | | | | + CRANBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as berries | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CHERRIES |Pectin must | Pit the |For jam, use| ¾ cupful of + |be added for|cherries for|just enough | sugar to 1 + |jelly making| jam | water to | cupful of + | | | keep from | cherries for + | | | burning | jam + | | | | + CRAB APPLES | Excellent | Same as |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | apples | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as apples | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, RED| Excellent | Do not |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |remove stems| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | for jelly | quarts of | cupful of + | | | currants | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, | Better for |Remove stems|Enough water| ¾ cupful of + BLACK | jam | |to keep from| sugar to 1 + | | | sticking | cupful of + | | | | currants + | | | | + GRAPES, | Excellent |Wash, do not|1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + UNRIPE | for jelly | stem; use | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | stems | quarts of | cupful of + | | | grapes | juice + | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES | Excellent | "Head and |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |tail," using| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | scissors | quarts of | cupful of + | | |gooseberries| juice + | | | | + PEACHES |Pectin must | Peaches, |Just enough | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| apples and | water to | sugar to 1 + |jelly making|raisins make| keep from | cupful of + | |a delicious | burning | juice + | | conserve | | + | | | | + PINEAPPLES |Pectin must | Prepare as | For jams, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| for table |enough water| sugar to 1 + |jelly making| use |to keep from| cupful of + | | | burning | juice + | | | | + PLUMS, |Suitable for| Mash fruit | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of + GREENGAGE |jelly making| and remove | water for | sugar to 1 + | |stems; cook |each peck of| cupful of + | |stones with | fruit | juice + | | fruit | | + | | | | + PLUMS, DAMSON|Suitable for| Wipe and | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of + |jelly making| pick over; | water for | sugar to 1 + | | prick | every peck | cupful of + | | several | of plums | juice + | | times with | | + | | large pin | | + | | | | + QUINCES | Excellent |Cut out the |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly |blossom end.| much water | sugar to 1 + | making, if |Mash and cut| as quinces | cupful of + | not too |in quarters | | juice + |ripe. If so,| | | + | add crab | | | + | apple | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES | Excellent | Wash them |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |thoroughly, | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | but do not | quarts of | cupful of + | | let them | berries | juice + | |soak in the | | + | | water | | + | | | | + RHUBARB |Pectin must |Wash and cut| For jam, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| into small |half as much| sugar to 1 + | jelly | pieces | water as | cupful of + | making. | | fruit. | juice + | Better for | | | + | jam. | | | + | | | | + STRAWBERRIES |Pectin must | Wash and | For jam, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| remove |just enough | sugar to 1 + | jelly | hulls. | water to | cupful of + | making. | | keep from | pulp. + | | | burning. | + CITRUS FRUITS| | | | + | | | | + ORANGES | Excellent | For orange | Cook in |Three-quarters + | for jelly | marmalade | water to | their weight + | making and | weigh | cover. | in sugar. + | marmalade | oranges | | + | |slice cross-| | + | | wise with | | + | |sharp knife | | + | | as thin as | | + | | possible; | | + | |remove seed.| | + | | | | + LEMONS | Excellent | For | | 8 pounds of + | for jelly |marmalade 9 | | sugar + | making and |oranges and | | + | to supply |6 lemons are| | + | pectin to | a good | | + |other fruits|combination | | + | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT | Best for | Grapefruit | |Three-quarters + | marmalades | is sliced | | their weight + | | very thin, | | in sugar. + | | seed | | + | | removed. | | + WILD FRUITS | | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES, | All | Prepare as |Just enough | 1 cupful of + BLACKBERRIES,| excellent | other | water to | sugar to 1 + BARBERRIES, | for jelly | fruits. | keep from | cupful of + GRAPES, BEACH| making. | | burning. | juice. + PLUMS. | | | | + | | | | + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + +CHAPTER VII + +MEAT + + +Canned meat adds variety to the diet in the winter-time and makes a +pleasant change from the cured and smoked meats. You put meat into +jars in the raw state and extend the sterilizing period or you can +cook the meat partially or completely and then sterilize for a shorter +period of time. Of course a reliable method of canning meat must be +used, such as the cold-pack process, where the sterilizing is done in +the tin or jar in either boiling water or steam under pressure. We +usually recommend the partial cooking, roasting or boiling of the meat +before canning especially for beginners. If you are a beginner in the +business of cold-pack canning then by all means cook the meat before +putting it in cans. If you have canned peas, beans and corn +successfully for years then you are ready for all kinds of raw meat +canning. + +To save criticism of the cold-pack method of canning meat and to guard +against any danger from eating poorly prepared and improperly +sterilized meat we do not urge beginners to experiment with meat, +although the meat can be safely canned by any one whether new at the +canning game or a veteran in it if directions are carefully followed. +But it is the big "If" that we have to watch. + +Many farmers and farmerettes are canning meats of all kinds all over +the country and there is never a can lost. We need more meat canning +done at home and you can do it if you will practice cleanliness in all +your work and follow directions. + +The fear of getting botulinus bacteria from eating canned meat is just +a "bug-a-boo." It should be clearly understood that botulism is one of +the very rare maladies. The chances for getting it by eating canned +goods, say the experts, is rather less than the chances from dying of +lockjaw every time you scratch your finger. To regard every can as a +source of botulism is worse than regarding every dog as a source of +hydrophobia. Moreover, for the very timid, there is the comforting +certainty that the exceedingly slight danger is completely eliminated +by re-cooking the canned food for a short time before eating it. + +There are always a few cases of illness traceable to bad food, not +only to canned food but to spoiled meats, fish, bad milk, oysters and +a number of things. There are also cases of injury and death by street +accidents, but we do not for that reason stop using the streets. If +you put good meat into the can and do your canning right then you will +have good results. Never put into a can meat that is about ready to +spoil, thinking thereby to "save it." + +If you want to be absolutely sure, even if the jar of meat seems +perfectly fresh when it is opened, you can re-cook the meat, thus +insuring yourself against any possibility of botulinus poisoning. So +you see, there is nothing at all alarming about that frightful +sounding word "botulinus." Using fresh products, doing the canning +properly and reheating before serving eliminates all danger. + +For canning meat, tin cans are in most respects superior to glass, as +they eliminate all danger of breakage, preserve the meat just as well +as glass, and by excluding the light prevent any change of color. If +you use glass jars be sure to get the best brand of jar rubbers on the +market. This is very important. + +If, as I have said, you are a beginner--cook the meat first by frying, +roasting, broiling, baking or stewing--just as you would prepare it +for immediate use. The meat is usually seasoned according to taste and +is cooked until thoroughly heated through, before putting in the cans. +Do not cook until tender as that will be too long with the additional +sterilizing. If too tender it will fall apart and be unappetizing +although perfectly good. See that nothing is wasted in the canning. If +you are canning a young steer or a calf you would go about it as +follows: + +Select the meat that you would ordinarily want. Slice the meat wanted +for steak. What is not suited for either of these can be used for +stews, or be put through the meat grinder and made into sausage meat, +formed into little cakes, fried and canned. What meat is left clinging +to all bones will be utilized when the bones are boiled for soup +stock. The sinews, the head and the feet, after being cleaned may be +used for soup stock also. + +The liver should be soaked in water, the coarse veins cut out and the +liver skinned and prepared any way that is desired before canning it +or it may be made into liver sausage. The heart can be used for +goulash. The kidneys should be soaked in salt water, split open and +the little sack removed; then they can be either stewed or fried and +then canned. The sweetbreads may be prepared in various ways and then +canned. + +The brain is soaked in water to remove the blood, and the membrane +enclosing it is removed. It can be fried or prepared in any favorite +way and then canned. The ox tail is used for soup. The tongue is +soaked in water, scrubbed, cleaned, salted, boiled, skinned and packed +in cans with some soup stock added. + +If you do not care to use the head for soup stock and if it comes from +a young animal, split it open and soak in cold water. Use a brush and +scrub thoroughly. Remove the eyes and mucous membrane of the nostrils +and then boil it. After it is boiled, remove all meat and make a mock +turtle stew or ragout. Prepare the tripe as for table use and then +can. + +After the soup stock is made and the bones are cracked for a second +cooking, the bones need not be thrown away. You can dry them, run them +through a bone crusher and either feed them to the chickens or use +them for fertilizer. In this way not a particle of the dressed animal +is wasted. + +Here are a few ways to utilize the cuts that are really "left-overs." + + +GOULASH + + 2 Pounds of meat scraps which can consist of beef, veal or pork. + 2 Ounces of any fat. + 2 Onions chopped fine. + 1 Stalk celery, cut in small pieces. + 2 Carrots. + 2 Cups tomatoes either canned or fresh. + 1 Bay leaf. + 6 Whole cloves. + 6 Peppercorns. + 1 Blade mace or a little thyme or both. + A little flour. + 1 Tablespoonful chopped parsley. + Salt and paprika to taste. + +Cut the meat into one inch squares and roll in flour. Melt the fat in +the frying pan, add the vegetables (onions, celery, carrots) and brown +lightly: add the meat and brown. Stir with a spoon or fork to prevent +burning. When browned empty into a pan. + +Put the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, mace and thyme into a +cheesecloth bag and add to the meat, add tomatoes. Cover with soup +stock or water and simmer 45 minutes if it is going to be canned. If +for immediate use, 2 hours will be necessary to thoroughly cook it. + +Remove the spices, season with salt, paprika and the chopped parsley. +You can add Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce if desired. Use only +small quantities as these sauces are very strong in their distinctive +flavor. Put hot mixture into cans and sterilize. + +If the different spices are not at hand a good goulash can be made by +using the meat, fat, onions, tomatoes, flour, salt and pepper and +omitting the rest of the recipe. + + +LIVER SAUSAGE + +Beef, veal, or hog liver. Remove the membrane and cut away the large +blood vessels. Soak in water 1 to 2 hours to draw out blood. Boil +until done. When cooled put through a food chopper or grate finely. +Take half as much boiled fat pork as liver. Divide this fat into two +portions; chop one portion into one-quarter inch cubes; pass the other +portion through the food chopper; mix all together thoroughly; add +salt, ground cloves, pepper, and a little grated onion to taste. A +little thyme and marjoram may be added to suit taste. (For a liver +weighing 1½ pounds add ¾ pounds fat pork, 3 to 4 teaspoonfuls salt, ½ +teaspoonful cloves, ½ teaspoonful pepper, 1 small onion, ¼ teaspoonful +thyme, and pinch of marjoram.) This mixture is stuffed into large +casings. (If no casings are available, make casings of clean white +muslin.) Cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 +minutes. Pack into cans, fill in with the water in which the sausages +were boiled. Sterilize. + +This liver sausage may also be made from the raw liver and raw pork, +but in that case the sterilizing is for a longer period, as the +time-table indicates. This recipe is recommended by the United States +Department of Agriculture. + + +HEAD CHEESE + +Cut a hog's head into four pieces. Remove the brains, ears, skin, +snout and eyes. Cut off the fattest parts for lard. Put the lean and +bony parts to soak over night in cold water in order to extract the +blood and dirt. When the head is cleaned put it over the fire to boil, +using water enough to cover it. Boil until the meat separates readily +from the bones. Then remove it from the fire and pick out all the +bones. Drain off the liquor, saving a part of it for future use. Chop +the meat up finely with a chopping knife. Return it to the kettle and +pour on enough of the liquor to cover the meat. Let it boil slowly for +fifteen minutes to a half-hour. Season to taste with salt and pepper +just before removing it from the fire. Bay leaves, a little ground +cloves and allspice may be added and boiled a short time in the soup. +Pack while hot in cans to within ½ inch of top. Sterilize. This head +cheese is always served cold. + + +CORNED BEEF + +After beef has been properly corned for three weeks, remove the meat +from the brine. Soak for two hours in clear water, changing water +once. Place in a wire basket and boil slowly for half an hour. Remove +from the boiling water, plunge into cold water, and remove gristle, +bone and excessive fat. Cut into small pieces and pack closely into +cans. Add no salt and proceed as in other canning. + + +CANNED PORK + +After the animal has been killed, cool quickly and keep the pork cool +for at least 24 hours. Can only lean portions, using the fat to make +lard. Place meat in a wire basket or cheesecloth and boil 30 minutes, +or roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Cut into small sections and pack +closely into cans. Add salt and proceed with remainder of process. + +Other pieces of beef and pork: Hamburg steak, sausage, venison, +squirrel, raccoon, opossum, lamb, are canned as follows: + +After cleaning, season and fry, roast, stew, or bake in oven as though +preparing for serving directly on the table. Cook until meat is about +three fourths done. Pack while hot into sanitary tin cans or glass +jars. Pour over the meat the hot liquids, gravies, dressings, etc., or +hot water. Add salt and proceed as in any other cold-pack canning. + + +HOW TO CAN POULTRY AND GAME WITH THE BONES REMOVED + +Kill bird and draw immediately; wash carefully and cool; then cut into +convenient sections. Boil until the meat can be removed from the +bones; remove from the boiling liquid and take out all bones; pack +closely into glass jars or enameled cans; fill jars with the hot +liquid after it has been concentrated one half; add 1 level +teaspoonful salt to every quart of meat for seasoning; put rubbers and +top of jars in place but not tight. If using enameled cans completely +seal. Sterilize the length of time given in the time-table on page +108 of this book. After the sterilizing remove the jars; tighten the +covers if glass was used; invert to cool and test joints. Wrap with +paper to prevent bleaching. + + +FRIED SPRING CHICKEN + +After cleaning and preparing the chickens, season and fry as though +for serving directly on the table. Cook until the meat is about +three-fourths done. If a whole spring chicken, break the neck and both +legs and fold around body of chicken. Roll up tight, tie a string +around the chicken and drop this hot, partially fried product into +sanitary tin cans or glass jars. A quart tin can (No. 3) will hold two +to four small chickens. Pour liquid from the griddle or frying pan +into the can over the chicken. Proceed, as in any other canning, with +the sealing, sterilizing and removing of the jars. Chicken fries +canned in the late fall preserve the meat at the most delicious stage +and furthermore we avoid the expense of feeding the chickens +throughout the winter. + + +HOW TO CAN COCKERELS + +When cockerels reach the point in their growth where it is no longer +profitable to feed them, and when they are wanted for home use during +the winter months they should be canned. This method of handling the +cockerel not only saves money by cutting down the feed bill, but it +places in the pantry or cellar the means of a delicious chicken dinner +at a time of the year when the price of poultry is high. + +The bird should not be fed for at least twenty-four hours before +killing. It should be killed by the approved method and picked dry. +When the feathers have been removed and the pin feathers drawn the +bird should be cooled rapidly. This rapid cooling after killing is +essential to a good flavor in canned meat. As soon as the bird has +been properly cooled it should be singed and washed carefully with a +brush. + + +CUTTING UP AND DRAWING CHICKENS + +Mr. George Farrell, a most expert canner, tells us how to go about +this job of canning chicken. + +In preparing the bird for canning, care should be taken in drawing it +so that the contents of the digestive tract do not come in contact +with the meat. + +1. Remove the tops of the wings, cutting at the first joint. + +2. Remove the wings. + +3. Remove the foot, cutting at the knee joint. + +4. Remove the leg, cutting at the hip or saddle joint. + +5. Cut the removed portion of the leg into two parts at the joint. + +6. Place the bird so the back of the head is toward the operator, cut +through the neck bone with a sharp knife but do not cut the windpipe +or gullet. + +7. With the index finger separate the gullet and windpipe from the +skin of the neck. + +8. Cut through the skin of the neck. + +9. With a pointed knife cut through the skin from the upper part of +the neck, thus separated, to the wing. + +10. Leave the head attached to the gullet and windpipe and loosen +these from the neck down as far as the crop. + +11. With a sharp pointed knife cut around the shoulder blade, pull it +out of position and break it. + +12. Find the white spots on the ribs and cut through the ribs on these +white spots. + +13. Cut back to the vent; cut around it, and loosen. + +14. Begin at the crop and remove the digestive tract from the bird, +pulling it back toward the vent. + +15. Remove the lungs and kidneys with the point of a knife. + +16. Cut off the neck close to the body. + +17. Cut through the backbone at the joint or just above the diaphragm. + +18. Remove the oil sack. + +19. Separate the breast from the backbone by cutting through on the +white spots. + +20. Cut the fillet from each side of the breastbone. + +21. Cut in sharp at the point of the breastbone, turning the knife and +cutting away the wishbone with the meat. Bend in the bones of the +breastbone. + + +PACKING CHICKEN + +Use a one quart jar. Caution: Do not pack the giblets with the meat. + +1. Have the jar hot. + +2. Pack the saddle with a thigh inside. + +3. Pack the breastbone with a thigh inside. + +4. Pack the backbone and ribs with a leg inside. + +5. Pack the legs large end downward, alongside the breastbone. + +6. Pack the wings. + +7. Pack the wishbone. + +8. Pack the fillets. + +9. Pack the neck-bone. + +10. Pour on boiling water to within one inch of the top; add a level +teaspoonful of salt; place the rubber and cap in position, partially +seal, and sterilize for the length of time given below for the +particular type of outfit used: + + Water bath, home made or commercial (pint or quart jars) 1 hour + Water seal, 214° 3 hours + 5 pounds steam-pressure 2 hours + 10 to 15 pounds steam-pressure 1 hour + +Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. Wrap +jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + +PIGEONS + +_Young_ pigeons. Dress pigeons, wash well, and roast for 30 minutes +basting frequently. Some pieces of fat bacon put over the breasts will +prevent them getting too dry. + +_Old_ pigeons. Dress, wash, and fry pigeons. + +Brown some onions in the fat with the pigeons, using a pound of onions +to a dozen birds. Cover with hot water after pigeons and onions are a +golden brown; simmer until the meat is tender and can be removed from +the bones. Add from time to time boiling water, if necessary, in order +to keep the birds covered. When tender, take meat from bones. Return +the meat to the liquor, salt to taste and pack while boiling into cans +or jars, fill with liquor to within one-half inch of top. + +All small game birds may be canned like pigeons. Blackbirds may be +treated like pigeons. They make an excellent stew. + + +PLAIN CANNING OF TENDER COTTON-TAILS OR TWICE-SKINNED JACK-RABBITS + +1. Blanch in boiling water until the meat is white. + +2. Cold dip. + +3. Pack tightly in sterilized jars. + +4. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt to quart. + +5. Adjust rubber and lid. + +6. Sterilize in hot water bath for three hours. + +7. Remove from bath and complete the seal. + +Rabbit meat thus canned, may be served in various appetizing ways. + + +RABBIT SAUSAGE + +For rabbit sausage and mince-meat only the backs and legs of the +carcass are used, discarding the sinews. + +Grind together equal parts of rabbit and fat pork (or at least ¼ fat +pork). The pork may be salt pork if all salt is omitted from the +mixture. + +To every ten pounds of the above add 6 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 +teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sage. Mix thoroughly. +Shape in flat cakes and fry till nicely browned. Pack tightly in jars, +pour over the fat in which the sausage was fried, and sterilize. + + +RABBIT MINCE-MEAT + +Rabbit mince-meat is used a great deal on the plains and large +quantities of it are canned. The mince-meat may be made by simply +substituting the rabbit meat for beef in your favorite recipe. The +following is an inexpensive recipe: + +1 Cup of rabbit meat which has been parboiled in salted water and +drained, then chopped finely. + +1 Cup chopped apple. + +½ Cup finely chopped suet. + +½ Cup seeded raisins. + +½ Cup currants. + +1 Cup molasses or syrup. + +2 Tablespoonfuls sugar. + +1 Tablespoon cider, lemon juice, fruit juice or vinegar. + +¼ Cup chopped watermelon pickles or green tomato pickles. + +1 Teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg. + +1 Teaspoon of salt. + +½ Teaspoon cloves, mace or other spice. + +Mix together all ingredients except the meat, add the meat broth and +simmer for about 1 hour. Add the meat. Pour into jars, and sterilize. +Remove and seal. + + +STEPS IN CANNING MEAT AND GAME + +For all meat, poultry or game canning the following general +instructions should be kept in mind. + +1. Sterilize the jars, caps and rubbers. + +2. Grade the meat for size. + +3. Cut up into convenient portions for cooking or canning. + +4. Sauté, fry or bake, broil or stew as desired. This step can be +omitted if you are an experienced canner. + +5. Pack in sterilized, hot jars or tin cans. + +6. Add 1 level teaspoonful salt per quart of meat for seasoning if not +already seasoned. + +7. If glass jars put on rubber and seal, not too tight. Seal tin cans. + +8. Process in boiling water or steam under pressure. + +9. Remove, completely seal the jar. + +10. Invert to cool and test the joint. + +11. Label and store. + + +If you can in tin use the enamel or lacquered cans. A slight amount of +water in the bottom of the jars of prepared meat will insure quicker +sterilization of the air remaining in the jar. Where meat has been +stewed the liquor can be poured into the jar for filling. If you use a +steam-pressure cooker outfit of course the time of cooking will be +much shorter than if you use a wash-boiler or some other homemade +outfit. If you cook in boiling water we call that the water-bath +method. + +The following data will be of interest to those who contemplate +canning meat. + +Hog on foot--weight 500. + +Liver, heart and a part of the ribs were eaten at the time of +butchering, therefore, not canned. The remainder of the ribs canned +six No. 3 cans: + +Ham 18, No. 3 cans + +Shoulder 18, No. 3 cans + +Roast 18, No. 3 cans + +Sausage 26, No. 3 cans + +Hash 4, No. 3 cans + +Gravy 5, No. 3 cans + +(which is also called stock) + +The sausage weighed 52 lbs. before it was canned, making 2 lbs. to the +can. + +There were 200 lbs. of fat for lard. After it was rendered there were +176 lbs. of lard and 20 lbs. of cracklings. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING MEAT, POULTRY AND +GAME + + [A] IF USING HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212°F + [B] IF USING WATER-SEAL OUTFIT AT 214°F + [C] IF USING STEAM PRESSURE 5 POUNDS + [D] IF USING PRESSURE COOKER 15 POUNDS + + TIME TO STERILIZE + PRODUCTS | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + PARTIALLY COOKED MEAT OF ALL KINDS + + + Roast beef | | | | + Corned beef | | | | + Sweetbreads | | | | + Tongue | | | | + Brains | | | | + Headcheese | | | | + Spareribs | 1½ hrs. | 1 hr. | 40 min. | 30 min. + Kidneys | | | | + Sausages and | | | | + other meats | | | | + Rabbits | | | | + Pigeon | | | | + Chicken | | | | + + UNCOOKED OR RAW MEAT + + Beef | | | | + Pork | 3 hrs. | 3 hrs. | 2 hrs. | 1 hr. + Veal and all | | | | + other meats | | | | + Poultry and game | | | | + + All meat stocks | | | | + with or without | 1½ hrs. | 75 min. | 1 hr. | 40 min. + vegetables and | | | | + cereals | | | | + +NOTE.--This time-table is for No. 2 and No. 3 tin cans or pint and +quart glass jars. If larger cans or jars are used more time must be +allowed for the sterilizing. If canning in tin, scratch on the can at +the time of sealing the initial of the contents. For instance--S.R. +means spareribs; G. means goulash; R.B. means roast beef. You can make +out your list and mark accordingly. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +FISH + + +People in some sections of the country are interested in canning +mountain trout and others live where there is an abundant supply of +either fresh-water fish or salt-water fish. Heretofore we have been +wasteful and lax about the fish supply. But as we have learned to can +vegetables and meats so we are going to learn to can fish. Fish is +really canned the same in every step after preparation as peas and +corn are canned. + +In order to have a good product, fish must be fresh when canned. No +time should be lost in handling the fish after being caught. +Putrefaction starts rapidly, and the fish must be handled promptly. +The sooner it is canned after being taken from lake, stream or ocean, +the better. Never attempt to can any fish that is stale. + + +PREPARATION OF FISH FOR CANNING + +As soon as fish are caught it is advisable to kill them with a knife +and allow the blood to run out. Scale fish. This is easily done if the +fish is dipped in boiling water. For canning, most varieties of fish +need not be skinned. If the fish is very large and coarse, the large +back fin may be cut out and the backbone removed, but with most +varieties this is unnecessary. Cut off the head and tail, being +careful to leave no more meat than necessary on the parts removed. +Remove the entrails and the dark membrane that in some fish (e.g., +mullets) covers the abdominal cavity. Thoroughly clean the inside. The +head may be cleaned and used for fish chowder. + +If you wish to be sure that all blood is drawn out before canning, +place the fish in a brine made of one ounce of salt to one quart of +water. Allow the fish to soak from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to +the thickness of the fish. Never use this brine but once. If the meat +of the fish is very soft or loose, it may be hardened by soaking in a +brine (strong enough to float an Irish potato) for from 15 minutes to +an hour, depending on the thickness of the pieces and the softness of +the flesh. + + +CANNING THE FISH + +1. Remove the fish from the brine where it has been placed in order to +draw out all the blood and to harden the texture of the fish. + +2. Drain well. + +3. Cut into can lengths. + +4. Place fish in a piece of cheesecloth or in a wire basket and blanch +in _boiling water_ from three to five minutes. Three minutes for the +soft flesh fish, such as suckers, crappies, whitefish. Fish with a +firmer flesh, as pike, muskalonge and sunfish require 5 minutes +blanching. The blanching removes the strong fish flavor and cleans the +outside of the fish. + +5. Cold-dip the fish by plunging into cold water immediately. This +makes the flesh firm. + +6. Pack in hot jars or cans to within ½ inch from top. Add 1 +teaspoonful salt per quart. Put on a good rubber and partially seal +the jar, completely seal tin cans. + +7. Place jars or cans in canner and process in _boiling_ water for +three hours. Three hours sterilization will insure the keeping of all +varieties of fish, providing fresh products are used and the blanching +and other work is carefully done. If canning with a steam-pressure +canner or a pressure cooker sterilize for one hour and a half under 10 +to 15 lbs. pressure. + +8. At the end of the sterilizing period cool the jars quickly after +sealing completely. The tin cans may be cooled by immersing them in +cold water. + +9. Store for future use. + + +SOFTENING OF BONES IN FISH + +This can be done satisfactorily under pressure. The bones of fish are +composed of large quantities of harmless lime, bound by a matrix of +collagen, which is insoluble under ordinary conditions. When subjected +to a high temperature under pressure this collagen is converted into +gelatin and dissolved, leaving the bones soft and friable and even +edible. Bony fish, such as herring and shad, which are too small to +use otherwise are greatly improved when subjected to steam under +pressure. + +The bones in herring are softened in 37 minutes at a temperature of +240 degrees; shad in 1 hour; flounder 1 hour. Other fish are fully +cooked and the bones softened in times approximately proportionate to +the size of the bones. + +The following table was made after many experiments and gives the time +required to soften the bones in many common species of fish. + +The term "softening" means the point in cooking when the small bones, +ribs, etc., are soft, but when the large vertebrae are not yet +sufficiently soft to be consumed along with the meat. In some of the +larger fishes where the large bones could scarcely be eaten, even if +they were softened, it would appear to be a waste of time and fuel to +carry them to a point of complete cooking, and in such cases it ought +to be sufficient to soften the small bones and sterilize the contents +of the can. For such a purpose, the "softening" rather than the "soft" +point, may be used. + +The time periods are measured from the point when the given pressure +and temperature are reached (at the top of the cooker) to the time +when the heat is shut off. The heating-up and cooling-off period of +time are therefore not included. The fish were salted, but no water +was added. + +Samples of fish canned during the course of these experiments were +kept six weeks at room temperature (about 68° F.) and were then +incubated at 98° F. for 48 hrs. All were sterile. + +TIME REQUIRED TO SOFTEN THE BONES OF +VARIOUS SPECIES OF FISH IN QUART JARS +OR NO. 3 TIN CANS, 10 LBS. PRESSURE, +240° F. + + |WEIGHT |SOFTENING|SOFT + |(LBS.) |(MINUTES)|(MINUTES) + | | | + BLACK BASS | | | + | | | + Large | 5-6 | 100 | 120 + Small | ¾ to 1 | 100 | 110 + | | | + BLUEFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 6-9 | 90 | 100 + Small | 1-2 | 80 | 90 + | | | + BUTTERFISH | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-½ | 60 | 80 + | | | + CATFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 1½-2 | 70 | 80 + Small | ¾ | 60 | 70 + | | | + CERO | | | + | | | + Average | 10-13 | 80 | 90 + | | | + COD | | | + | | | + Large | 6-16 | 80 | 90 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + FLOUNDER | | | + | | | + Large | 1-1¾ | 70 | 80 + Small | ½-1 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HADDOCK | | | + | | | + Large | 3-5 | 60 | 70 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HALIBUT | | | + | | | + Average | 50-90 | 70 | 80 + | | | + HICKORY SHAD | | | + | | | + Average |1½-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + KINGFISH | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1 | 60 | 70 + | | | + LEMON SOLE | | | + | | | + Large | 2½-3½ | 80 | 90 + Small | ¾-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL | | | + | | | + Average | ¾-1½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL, SPANISH | | | + | | | + Average | 1½-2½ | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, WHITE | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-¾ | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, YELLOW | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-¾ | 90 | 100 + | | | + POLLACK | | | + | | | + Average | 5-7½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + SALMON | | | + | | | + Average | 13-19 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SEA BASS | | | + | | | + Average | 1-1½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + SQUETEAGUE | | | + | | | + Large | 2½-4 | 80 | 90 + Small | ¾-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SMELTS | | | + | | | + Large, per lb. | 5-7 | 60 | 70 + Small, per lb. | 15-20 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SNAPPER, RED | | | + | | | + Large | 10-15 | 110 | 120 + Small | 5-6 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SUCKER | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1½ | 80 | 90 + | | | + TILEFISH | | | + | | | + Average | 6-12 | 90 | 100 + | | | + WHITING | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1 | 50 | 60 + + +FRIED FISH + +1. Clean the fish and remove entrails. Split along the back and remove +backbone. + +2. Place in brine strong enough to float an Irish potato. Allow fish +to remain in this brine from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to the +thickness of the flesh. This draws out the blood and hardens the meat. + +3. Draw, wipe dry. + +4. Cut in pieces that can go through jar or can openings. + +5. Roll in cornmeal or other flour, dip into beaten egg and roll in +flour again. + +6. Then put into frying basket and fry in deep fat until nicely +browned, or it can be sautéd in bacon or other fat until well browned. + +7. Drain well by placing pieces on coarse paper to absorb excessive +fat. + +8. Pack into hot jars or enameled tin cans. + +9. Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Add no liquid. + +10. Partially seal glass jars. Completely seal tin cans. + +11. Process 3 hours in hot water bath outfit. Process 1½ hours in +steam pressure (10 to 15 lbs. pressure). + +12. Remove from canner. Seal glass jars. Cool quickly as possible. + + +BAKED FISH + +Prepare and bake fish same as for table use until half done. Pack in +hot jars, add salt and sterilize three hours in hot-water-bath outfit +or 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker, 10 to 15 lbs. +pressure. + + +ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MISCELLANEOUS FISH + +Rub the fish inside and out with a mixture made as follows: to 50 +pounds fish, mix 2½ pounds salt, 2½ pounds brown sugar and 2½ ounces +saltpeter. Let the fish stand in a cool place for 48 to 60 hours with +the mixture on, then wash and drain. Fill into glass jars or enamel +lined tin cans and add the following sauce until cans are nearly +filled: ¼ pound whole black pepper, 1½ pounds salt, 1 pound of onions +chopped fine, ½ ounce bay leaves, ¼ pound whole cloves, 2 quarts cider +vinegar and 25 quarts of water. Soak the pepper, cloves and bay leaves +for 48 hours in the vinegar. Put the water, salt and onions in a +kettle. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes, then add the vinegar and +spices. Let boil for one minute. Strain and it is ready for use. + +Sterilize for 3 hours in hot-water-bath outfit. + +Sterilize for 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker (10 to 15 +lbs. pressure). + + +CANNED FISH IN OIL + +Rub fish with salt, brown sugar and saltpeter as above directed. Wash +and dry thoroughly in the sun. Spread on wire screens and dip in oil +heated to a temperature of 300 degrees. Use a strap handle plunge +thermometer to determine heat of oil. Cottonseed oil may be used for +this purpose, although olive oil is best. As soon as the fish are +cool enough to handle, pack tightly in cans, filling up with the hot +oil. + +Sterilize 3 hours in hot-water-bath-outfit; 1½ hours in steam pressure +or pressure cooker (10 to 15 lbs.). + + +CANNED FISH IN TOMATO SAUCE + +Handle same as specified under "Another Formula for Miscellaneous +Fish," except pour in the following sauce instead of pepper, cloves, +onions, etc.: Ten gallons of tomato pulp (mashed tomatoes and juice +with cores, seeds and skins removed); 1 gallon cider vinegar, 1 pint +Worcestershire sauce; 2½ pounds red sweet peppers; 2½ pounds sugar, 2 +cups salt, 2 pounds onions (chopped fine); 1 pound West India peppers +and 1 ounce Saigon cinnamon. The fish are processed same as "Fish in +Oil." Enamel lined cans or glass jars must be used. + + +FISH CHOWDER + +The cleaned heads of any fish, the backbones cut out of large fish +with what meat adheres to them and all other fish scraps may be used +for fish chowder. Put all these parts in cold water (to cover) and +cook until all the meat can be easily removed from the bones. Pick all +the meat from the bones, strain the fish liquor and return it with the +picked fish meat to the kettle. Add the following ingredients: To +every two pounds of fish picked from bones and the liquor in which +fish was cooked add 6 onions, diced or sliced thin; 6 potatoes, diced +or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls fat; 1 teaspoonful paprika; 2 +teaspoonfuls salt or salt to taste. + +Cook vegetables, fat and seasonings until vegetables are half done. +Pack hot in cans and sterilize same as all other fish. When the +chowder is opened, heat and add milk according to taste. + + +FISH ROE + +For canning be sure to use roe of freshly caught fish and only such +roe as is known to be good to eat. The roe of some fishes, such as the +garfish, is not eaten. + +Clean the roe by removing the shreds and strings adhering to it and +wash well in cold water, being careful not to break the roe. Soak for +2 hours in a brine made of 6 quarts of water and 6 ounces of salt. +Drain and pack in hot glass jars or enameled tin cans. Can for the +same length of time as other fish. + + +OYSTERS + +Be sure all oysters that are to be canned are absolutely fresh, have +not "soured" and contain no spoiled oysters. Oysters are opened by +hand. All oysters should be rejected that have partly open shells, as +this is a sign that the oyster is dead and consequently not fit to +eat. + +Rinse the oysters to prevent any pieces of shell or grit from getting +into the cans. Blanch 5 minutes. Cold-dip. If the canned oysters are +to be sold it is required by law to mark on each can the net weight of +solids or meat exclusive of liquids. + +There have been a number of standard grades of oysters recognized on +the Baltimore market. They are given as follows: "Standard Oysters" +(four kinds). + +No. 1 cans, containing respectively 1½, 3, 4 and 5 ounces of meat, +after being processed in the cans. + +No. 2 cans, containing respectively 3, 6, 8 and 10 ounces of meat. + +"Select" and "Extra Select" Oysters contain respectively 6 ounces and +12 ounces for No. 1 and No. 2 cans. The above are the net weights of +meats only that have been drained over a strainer with a wire bottom +of ½ inch mesh. These are the only grades that have so far been +recognized by the trade. An even balance scale, with one platform for +graduated weights and another for articles to be weighed, is used to +weigh oysters or clams. It is suggested that those who are going to +can clams or oysters find out from their prospective customers just +what requirements are as to weights and then make their pack meet the +occasion. Under no circumstances is it advisable to make any +misstatements or misbrand in any respect. + +After oysters have been packed in the can, fill with boiling brine +made of 5 quarts of water to ¼ lb. salt to within ½ inch from top of +can. Sterilize as other fish. + + +CLAMS + +If clams are received in a muddy condition, it is advisable, though +not necessary to wash them before opening. After opening, discard +broken or discolored clams. Do not can any clams unless absolutely +fresh. Blanch. Cold-dip. Weigh out the amount of solid meat, after +draining, that is to go into each can. Weigh and label just as oysters +are weighed and labeled. + +Fill can to within ½ inch from the top with boiling brine made of 5 +gallons of water and 1 pound of salt. Sterilize. + + +CLAM BROTH AND CHOWDER + +Place the clams, after being opened, in a kettle with enough cold +water to cover. Add a few stalks of celery. Boil for 10 minutes. +Season with salt, and pepper to taste and add 1 tablespoon butter to +every 50 or 60 large clams. Can. Clam chowder can be made according to +any recipe and then canned. + + +SHRIMPS + +Shrimps when first caught are a grayish white color. They are very +delicate and spoil quickly if allowed to stand for any length of time +in a warm place. There are two general methods of canning shrimp--the +"dry pack" and "wet pack." Nearly all the trade now calls for "wet +pack" because the other always has a rather offensive odor and the +meat is never so fresh and sweet of flavor as the "wet pack." Canned +shrimp is very pleasing to the taste and is preferred by many to +lobster for salads and stews. + +Wet Pack. Medium sizes are preferable as very large shrimps are apt +to be too tough and too dry. Put the shrimps into a wire scalding +basket and lower into a boiling hot salt water solution made by mixing +one pound of salt to each gallon of water. Allow the shrimps to remain +in this bath for about five minutes, then remove and drain thoroughly. + +Peel and remove viscera (entrails). The boiling and the salt will +harden the meat and make the peeling comparatively easy. Pack into +enameled tin cans or glass jars. Nos. 1 and 1½ cans are used almost +exclusively. These sizes should contain 4½ oz and 9 ounces of meat +respectively. It is unsafe to put in more meat than above directed, +for it might cake and become solid when processed. + +Add a very mild brine to within ½ inch from top of can. For the brine +use 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart of boiling water. Sterilize. + +Dry Pack. Handle same as above, except do not pour into the cans any +brine. The fish is packed in the cans and processed as follows without +the addition of any liquor. + +Drying of Shrimps. After shrimps are boiled and peeled they may be +dried. Spread on a drier of any kind and dry at a temperature of from +110°F. to 150°F. When thoroughly dry pack in dry clean glass jars or +in parchment-paper lined boxes. + + +SALMON + +Scale fish, clean and wipe dry. Do not wash. If the fish are large cut +in lengths to fill the cans and in sizes to pass through can openings +easily. Salmon is usually packed in No. 1 cans or in flat cans. Fill +cans with fish after it has been blanched 5 minutes and cold dipped. +Sterilize as other fish. + +Many salmon packers lacquer the outside of their cans to prevent +rusting. This is a very advisable point. The test for unsound salmon +is the nose. If the contents issue an offensive odor, it is unsound. +Freezing does not hurt canned salmon. + + +AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES + +The fish taught and used for packing domestic sardines belong to the +herring family and are said to be of the same species as the sardines +of France, Portugal and Spain. There are two methods generally used in +canning sardines. First, when the fish are put in a sauce such as +mustard dressing or tomato sauce, and secondly where they are packed +in oil. + + +CANNING SARDINES IN SAUCE + +The heads are cut off, the scales taken off and the fish cleaned. +Blanch 5 minutes; cold dip; drain and pack into the cans dry. Cover +with sauce, either mustard or tomato. + + +SARDINES IN OIL + +The fish are prepared in the same manner as above described but +instead of blanching them, they are put in wire baskets and immersed +in boiling peanut or cottonseed oil until tender. Olive oil might be +used, but is rather expensive. When cooked, they are drained, packed +into cans in order, and the cans filled with olive oil. It is often +advisable to salt the fish while fresh and before cooking as it +improves the flavor. + + +CRAB MEAT + +Put 5 gallons of water in a large kettle. Add ¼ lb. of baking soda to +it. When boiling vigorously throw the live crabs in it and boil +quickly for 20 minutes. Remove crabs and wash them in cold water. Pick +out all meat. Wash the meat in a brine made of 1 ounce of salt +dissolved in three quarts of water. Drain and pack in enameled No. 1 +flat cans. Sterilize. As soon as the time of sterilizing is up, plunge +the cans immediately into cold water, otherwise crab meat discolors. +For this reason, glass jars are not so well adapted to crab meat +canning as tin cans. + + +FLAKED CODFISH + +The fish are first cleaned and the entrails removed, then the fins are +cut off. The fish are then soaked for about two hours in a salt brine +to remove the blood. This brine is made with about 10 lbs. of salt to +8 gallons of water. The brine is then rinsed off and the fish are +cooked, either boiled or cooked by steam. When codfish are thoroughly +cooked, the meat will drop off of the bone in pieces, and it is very +white in color and crisp in texture. These pieces are then broken in +suitable sizes and are ready to place in the cans. The cans are filled +as full as possible, because after processing the fish will shrink +some. + + +CRAWFISH + +The best way to can crawfish is to put it up in a bouillon as follows: +Water, 2 gallons; vinegar, 1 quart; cloves, 10; carrots in slices, 6; +onions in slices, 6; cloves of garlic, 3. + +To the above should be added a good quantity of pepper to suit the +taste, a little salt and bunch of parsley and a little thyme. Boil +slowly for about an hour. Throw in the crawfish after the intestines +have been extracted; to do this take the live crawfish in your hand +and tear off the wing which is in the middle of the tail; it will pull +out at the same time a little black intestine which is very bitter. +Boil one or two minutes, never longer, put in cans and process. + +TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING FISH + + + + + [A] SCALD OR BLANCH + [B] HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT 212°F + [C] CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT 212°F + [D] WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F + [E] STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS + [F] PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PRODUCT | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] + ------------------------------------------------------------------ + Fish of all kinds |3 to 5| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|2½ hrs.|2 hrs. |1½ hrs. + | min. | | | | | + | | | | | | + Shell fish of all |3 min.| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|2½ hrs.| 2 hrs.|1½ hrs. + kinds | | | | | | + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + +If the proper sanitary requirements are provided and instructions of +the cold-pack method of canning are followed, it is entirely safe and +practical to use tin cans for all kinds of fruits, vegetables and +other food products. Food poisoning--commonly called ptomaine +poisoning--and the effects ascribed to "salts of tin" result from +improper handling and improper preparation of the product before +packing, or from allowing the product to stand in the tin after it has +been opened. The raw food products used for canning in tin must be in +sound condition, just as they must be if put into glass containers. + +It is true that canned foods may be rendered unfit for use by improper +handling of the product before packing and that decomposition may +occur after canning, owing to insufficient processing, improper +sealing or the use of leaky containers. This condition, however, is no +more likely to be encountered in foods put up in tin than in products +canned in other types of containers. You run no more danger of poison +from your own tin-canned products than from tin-canned food bought at +the store. Most canned foods if in a spoiled condition readily show +this condition by the swelling of the can or by odor or taste. Canned +foods showing such evidences of decomposition should not be used. + +Certain foods which are high in protein, such as meats, peas, beans +and fish products, may undergo decomposition without making this +condition obvious to the senses. It is essential, therefore, that the +greatest care be taken to subject such products to proper preparation +and ample processing. It should be remembered that canned foods, after +opening the containers, should be treated as perishable products and +should be handled with the same precautions that are applied when +fresh products are being used. + + +ADVANTAGES OF CANS + +Many housewives ask, "Why can in tin when we have always used glass +jars?" There are many advantages in canning in tin which we can well +consider. There is no breakage as in glass; you can handle the tin +cans as carelessly as you choose and you will not hear a snap or crack +indicating a lost jar. Furthermore, tin cans are easier to handle not +only in canning but in storing. + +The expense each year of new tin covers or new tin cans is no more +than the purchase of new rubbers and the replacement of broken glass +jars. Furthermore, one big advantage of tin over glass is that tin +cans can be cooled quickly by plunging them into cold water +immediately upon removal from the canner, and thus the cooking is +stopped at the proper moment. The product is consequently better in +form and flavor than when the cooking is prolonged, as it must be in +glass jars. Many women like the large openings of cans because they +can make better packs than when using narrow-necked jars. + +If you do not care to bother with the soldering you can purchase a +safe and simple device that will do the work for you. This device is +called a tin-can sealer. With a sealer no soldering is necessary. +Even an inexperienced person, by following directions carefully, can +seal a can as well as an experienced one. The sealed cans look exactly +like those purchased at the store. Two or three cans a minute can be +sealed with this device. + +This is the way to operate a can sealer: Prepare the fruits and +vegetables as for any canning, following directions formerly given for +cold-pack canning. + +After the fruits or vegetables have been properly prepared, blanched +and cold-dipped if necessary, place them in sanitary, solderless cans. +Put water or sirup on, according to directions. Put the top on the can +and place the can in the sealer. + +Raise the can into the chunk by swinging the raising lever at the +bottom of the machine against the frame. Turn the crank, rapidly at +first, with the right hand, and at the same time push the seaming-roll +lever very slowly with the left hand until it will go no farther. This +is one of the most important steps in the use of the machine. Continue +to give the crank several turns after the seaming-roll lever has gone +as far as it will go. This completes the first operation or seam. + +Continue turning the crank with the right hand, and with the left hand +pull the seaming-roll lever until it will go no farther in this +direction. After this has been done give the crank several more turns, +and the second and final operation is complete. Bring the seaming-roll +lever back to the middle position and remove the can. The can is then +ready for sterilization. + +Before sealing a new lot of cans or after changing for a different +size of can, one or two of the cans about to be used should be tested +for leaks. If this is done and the cans stand the test it will be +unnecessary to test the remaining cans of that same lot. The following +is a simple and safe test: + +Put one tablespoon of water into an empty can and seal. Have on hand a +vessel containing enough boiling water to cover the can. Set aside +and, as soon as bubbles disappear from the surface, immerse the can in +the hot water. This heats the water in the can and creates a pressure +within the can. Keep the can under the surface for two minutes, and if +by that time no bubbles rise from the can the can has been sealed +air-tight. + + +ADJUSTING THE SEAMING ROLLS + +If bubbles rise from the can the seam is not sufficiently tight. If +this seam is not sufficiently tight the _second_ seaming roll needs +adjusting, provided the directions regarding seaming rolls given below +have been observed. To set the rolls proceed as follows: Loosen the +nut on the bottom of the seaming-roll pin. With a screw driver turn +the seaming-roll pin counter clockwise--that is, from right to left. +Turn very slightly and, while holding the seaming-roll pin with the +screw driver in the left hand, tighten nut with the right hand, and +test as before. + +Occasionally it is well to compare the seam after the first operation +with the sample can which is sent with the machine. + +If seaming rolls cut into the can they are set too close, and the +seaming-roll pin should be adjusted in the opposite direction from +above. + +After adjusting, always test cans as suggested above before canning. +The seaming rolls are set before the machine leaves the factory and +should not require adjusting for some time, but I have found that +slight variations in cans may make adjusting necessary. + +If for any reason the second seaming roll is brought into contact with +the can before the first operation is complete it may injure the can +seriously, thus preventing an air-tight seam. + +If the first seaming roll is forced in too rapidly it may ruin the +seam. Push the seaming-roll lever gently and steadily, while turning +the crank with the right hand. This rolls the seam gradually. There is +no danger from bringing in the second seaming roll too quickly if the +first seaming roll has completed its work. + +There are thus, as you see, two kinds of tin cans used in home +canning: The sanitary or rim-seal can, which is used with a sealer, +and the cap-and-hole can. The latter consists of a can, and a cover +which carries a rim of solder and is fastened on the can by the +application of heat. + +The sanitary can has a cover a trifle larger than the diameter of the +can, thus leaving the full diameter of the can open for filling. That +part of the cover that comes into contact with the can is coated with +a compound or fitted with a paper gasket or ring which makes a perfect +seal when the cover is crimped on the can. Some mechanical device is +necessary for sealing this can, and this is the sealer. + +Cans may be had with inside enamel or plain without any enamel. The +following fruits and vegetables should be canned in enamel-lined cans: +All berry fruits, cherries, plums, rhubarb, pumpkin, beets and squash. +All highly colored products should be canned in enamel-lined cans to +prevent the bleaching effect induced by their action upon the plain +tin. Some prefer to can fish and meat in the enamel-lined cans. Other +products not mentioned here may be canned in plain cans, since they +are less expensive than the enamel-lined cans. + +Covers are lined in two ways, with the paper gasket and the compound +gasket. The compound gasket is merely a preparation, scarcely visible, +applied to the under side of the cover and is not easily damaged by +handling. The paper gasket is a ring placed on the under side of the +cover and must be handled carefully. If the paper gasket becomes +broken the cover must be discarded. To sterilize covers having the +paper gasket, place them in the oven for a few minutes, but _do not +wet them_, before sealing cans. Do not remove or handle paper gaskets. + +When the cans are removed from the cooker the ends should be raised; +this is caused by the pressure within. If they are not raised at the +ends the cans should be carefully examined for defects. After the cans +are sterilized they should be cooled off in water. This will cause the +ends to collapse. If they do not collapse the reason is probably due +to overfilling. It must be remembered that peas, beans and corn swell +a certain amount after water is placed in the cans; therefore, in +canning these vegetables the cans should be filled only to within a +quarter of an inch of the top. If the pressure of the air from without +will not cause the end to collapse, it should be forced in by hand. + + +THE TINNING OUTFIT + +Tin-can sealers are made to handle the regular Number 2, or pint +cans, and the Number 3, or quart cans. The sizes are interchangeable, +so that in a few minutes' time a Number 2 machine may be changed into +a Number 3 machine with the necessary attachments. So it is economy to +buy a machine with these attachments, as you can then use either pints +or quarts as you desire. + +If you are selling to boarding houses and hotels you also will want +half-gallon and gallon cans. If you use these larger-size cans and +want the sealer you can get it for these sizes, but you must tell +exactly what you want when ordering. + +The prices which I give are 1919 prices and are of course not +stationary. A sealer that will seal the Number 2 sanitary tin cans +costs $14. A sealer for Number 3 cans will cost the same amount. But +the ideal arrangement is the combination machine which can be used for +both the pints, Number 2, and the quarts, Number 3. This type of +sealer costs $16.50. A special machine is used for sealing the Number +10 or gallon cans, and its price is $35. + +The price of the "winter can opener" is $17.00 for smaller size and +$19.50 for the larger one. + +Several standard sizes of tin cans are in common use for canning +purposes, as follows: + + DIAMETER OF + NUMBER SIZE OPENING + INCHES INCHES + 1 2-5/8 by 4 2-1/16 + 2 3-5/16 by 4-9/16 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 3 4-1/8 by 4-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 10 6/3/16 by 6-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + +The cans are put up in crates holding 100 or 500 cans. If you are +canning for the ordinary market use Number 2 cans for berries, corn, +peas and cherries; Number 3 cans for tomatoes, peaches, apples, pears +and sweet potatoes. + +In buying cans it is always necessary to state whether you desire +plain tin or lacquered--enameled--cans. In buying caps always ask for +the solder-hemmed caps and give the diameter of the can opening. For +whole fruits and vegetables, cans with two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch or +even larger openings are preferable. Since the size of the can opening +varies and it ordinarily will not be advisable to have more than one +capping iron, it is recommended that the larger +size--two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch--capping iron be purchased. + +The tin cans come in lots of 100 or 500 cans. It is possible to buy as +few as two dozen cans, but that never pays. It is cheaper to buy a +larger quantity. Number 2 plain sanitary cans in 500 lots cost $3.45 a +hundred; in 100 lots, $3.65 a hundred. Number 2 sanitary +cans--enameled--in 500 lots cost $3.80 a hundred; in 100 lots, $3.95 a +hundred. Number 3, plain, in 500 lots are $4.50 a hundred; Number 3, +plain, in 100 lots are $4.70 a hundred. Number 3, enameled cans, in +500 lots, are $4.95 a hundred; Number 3, enameled cans, in 100 lots, +are $5.10 a hundred. + +The gallons come twelve cans to a case. They are $1.40 a dozen if 100 +cases are bought. If less than 100 cases are ordered they are $1.50 a +dozen. + +The cans that you have to solder yourself run just about the same +price, Number 2 being $3.60 in 500 lots and $3.80 in 100 lots. Number +3 are $4.70 in 500 lots and $4.90 in 100 lots. The buyer must pay +express or freight charges on both sealers and tin cans. + + +PREPARING OLD CANS FOR REFILLING + + +Formerly, after using a tin can once we threw it away; but men with +brains, realizing this waste, have come to our rescue, and as a +consequence we can now use a can three times--that is, if we have a +sealer. The sealer that seals our cans will also open them for us, so +it becomes our winter can opener. With this can opener we can use our +tin cans three times, buying each year only new tops, which cost less +than good rubbers. + +Cutting and Reflanging Tin Cans. Cutting off the can the first time. +First lift the spring pin in the top piece, push the lever from you, +drop the spring pin between the stop of the first operation roll and +the cutting-roll stop. Place the can in the sealer, push the +can-raising lever against opposite side of frame. Turn the crank and +gently push seaming-roll handle from you until you come against +cutting-roll stop, and the top of your can is cut off. + +Reflanging. Remove standard can base and in its place put in the +reflanging base, lift the spring-pin and bring seaming-roll lever to +the original position. Drop the spring pin between the stops of the +first and second operation rollers, place the can in the sealer, open +end down, push raising lever round until the can engages with the +chuck, turn the crank and at the same time gradually push raising +lever round against the frame. The can is now ready for use again. + +Resealing. The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch shorter than +originally. Remove the reflanging base, put one of the narrow washers +on the top of the can-raising lever, then the standard can base, and +the sealer is now ready. Proceed as with the original can. + +Cutting the Can the Second Time. Proceed as at the first time, only +be sure to cut off the opposite end. The can may be cut open and +reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body. In cutting and +reflanging the second time, leave the three-sixteenth-inch washer +under the can base and reflanging base. + +Resealing the Second Time. Remove reflanging base and put the second +three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base and proceed as +directed under resealing. + + +THE SOLDERING OUTFIT + +The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a tipping +copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass or stoneware +cup in which to keep the soldering flux: sal ammoniac, a few scraps of +zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file. + +Soldering Flux. Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in crude +muriatic acid. It is used for cleaning the irons and for brushing the +tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for the melted lead +to adhere to the tin. + +To Make the Flux. Purchase at the drug store ten cents' worth of +crude muriatic acid. Place this in a porcelain, stone or glass jar. +Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will thoroughly dissolve. +The flux is always best when it has stood from twelve to sixteen hours +before using. Strain through a piece of cloth or muslin. Dilute with a +little water, about half and half. This will make the soldering flux. +When using keep the flux well mixed and free from dust and dirt. + +Tinning Capping Iron. Purchase five or ten cents worth of sal +ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife. Mix a +little solder with the sal ammoniac. Heat the capping iron hot enough +so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a liquid. Place +the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal ammoniac and +solder. Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering edge of the +iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the solder. All +particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, should be removed +from the iron before tinning. + +Tinning the Tipping Copper. The tipping copper is tinned in very +much the same way as the iron. Sometimes it is desirable to file the +tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to correct the point. +Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the mixture of sal +ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the melted lead and +is bright as silver. The copper should be filed nearly to a sharp +point. + +Capping a Tin Can. Use one tin can for experimenting. By capping and +tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and simply putting +another cap on the same can, you can use this one can until you become +proficient in capping. + +When capping the full packs arrange the cans in rows upon the table +while the capping and tipping irons are heating in the fire. Take a +handful of solder-hemmed caps and place them on all cans ready to be +capped. Place a finger on the vent hole, hold cap in place, and run +the brush containing a small amount of flux evenly round the +solder-hemmed cap with one stroke of the hand. Do this with all cans +ready to be capped. Then take the capping iron from the fire. Insert +in center the upright steel. Hold the capping iron above the cap until +the center rod touches the cap and holds it in place. Then bring it +down in contact with all four points of solder-hemmed cap and rotate +back and forth about three strokes. Do not bear down on capping iron. +A forward and back stroke of this kind, if properly applied, will +perfectly solder the cap in place. Remove capping iron and inspect the +joint. + +If any pin-holes are found recap or repair with copper. It may be +necessary to use a piece of wire lead or waste lead rim from a cap to +add more lead to the broken or pinhole places of a cap. + +Tipping a Tin Can. Take flux jar and brush. Dip brush lightly in +flux and strike the vent hole a side stroke, lightly, with brush +saturated with flux. + +Use the waste solder-hemmed cap rim or wire solder. Place point of +wire solder over vent hole. Place upon this the point of the hot, +bright, tipping copper. Press down with a rotary motion. Remove +quickly. A little practice will not only make this easy, but a smooth, +perfect joint and filling will be the result. The cans are now ready +for the canner. The handwork is all over, for the canner will do the +rest. + +Precautions. Do not fill tin cans too full. Leave a one-eighth to +one-quarter inch space at the top of the can and see that the product +does not touch the cover. If any of the product touches the cover the +application of the hot iron produces steam, which may blow out the +solder, making it impossible to seal the can. + + +RULES FOR STERILIZING + +Remember all fruits and vegetables are prepared for tin cans exactly +as they are for glass jars and the period of cooking or sterilizing is +the same. The following rules will help to avoid difficulties in the +operation of the various canning outfits: + +For hot-water-bath outfits, whether homemade or commercial. + +1. Support the cans off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and round the cans. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the cans by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the cans. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to jump over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. On removing the cans throw them into a sink with running cold water +or plunge them into a pail of cold water. + +5. If the cans are laid on their sides the false bottom is not +necessary. + +For steam-pressure and pressure-cooker canners the following +precautions should be observed: + +1. Lower the inside crate until it rests on the bottom of the +steam-pressure canners. In the case of the pressure cooker put the +rack in the bottom of the cooker. + +2. Have the water come to, but not above, the platform. + +3. Tin cans can be piled one above the other. + +4. When the canner has been filled fasten the opposite clamps +moderately tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Have the canner absolutely steam-tight. + +6. Allow the pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +7. Close the pet cock. + +8. After the gauge registers the correct amount of pressure, begin +counting the time. + +9. Maintain a uniform pressure throughout the process. + +10. When the process is completed allow the steam to escape gradually +through the pet cock. You can lift the pet cock slowly, using a pencil +or a knife. This can be done only with tin cans. If glass jars are +used the canner must be cooled before opening the pet cock. Blowing +the steam from the pet cock is likely to cause a loss of liquid from +the partly sealed glass jars. + +11. Throw the tin cans into cold water. + +12. If tin cans bulge at both ends after they have been completely +cooled, it indicates that they are spoiling and developing gas, due to +bacteria spores or chemical action. These may be saved if opened at +once and resealed or resoldered and processed again for ten minutes. + +The following table will help you in estimating how many cans of fruit +and vegetables you will obtain from a bushel of product: + + +NUMBER OF CANS A BUSHEL FILLS + + NO. 2 CANS NO. 3 CANS + Windfall apples 30 20 + Standard peaches 25 18 + Pears 45 30 + Plums 45 30 + Blackberries 50 30 + Windfall oranges, sliced 22 15 + Windfall oranges, whole 35 22 + Tomatoes 22 15 + Shelled Lima beans 50 30 + String beans 30 20 + Sweet corn 45 25 + Peas, shelled 16 10 + + + + +CHAPTER X + +INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + +In some parts of the United States, particularly in the South, such +vegetables as corn, beans, peas, squash, spinach, pumpkin, etc., are +canned by what is known as the fractional sterilization, or the +so-called Three Days Process. + +Southern canning experts have had trouble with certain vegetables, +such as those named, when they canned these vegetables in the wash +boiler by the cold-pack or one period method. They say that the +climatic conditions are so different in the South that what is +possible in the North is not possible in the South. + +The vegetables are prepared, blanched, cold-dipped and packed as in +the cold-pack method and the filled cans or jars are processed in the +wash boiler or other homemade outfit a given length of time three +successive days. + +After each day's processing the cans should be cooled quickly and set +aside, until the next day. + +The method is as follows: + +Process or sterilize glass jars for the required number of minutes on +the first day, remove from canner, push springs down tightly as you +remove the jar from the canner. + +On the second day raise the springs, place the jar in the canner, +process or boil for the same length of time as on the first day. +Remove from the canner and seal tightly. Set aside until the third +day, when the process should be repeated. + +For this canning a good spring-top jar is good, although the Mason jar +type of top will serve for one year; after one year of use it is +advisable to fit old Mason jars and similar types with new tops. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, do not disturb the +seal at the second and third processing unless the rubber has blown +out. + +This method is only necessary when depending upon boiling water or +condensed steam to do the work. + +A steam-pressure canner or pressure cooker is used in the South and +many other places to avoid bothering with vegetables three successive +days. + +The steam canner or pressure cooker soon pays for itself in time, +energy, and fuel saved as the vegetables may be canned at high +pressure in one processing. + +The following time-tables are those used in the South and will tell +you exactly how long to blanch and process all products. The +preparation of vegetables and fruits is the same as in the one-period +method, but the time of blanching and sterilizing differs as the +time-table indicates. + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + Tomatoes | BLANCH | LIQUOR | SIZE | PROCESS OR + | | | JAR | BOIL + ----------------------------------------------------------- + | 1 min. | No water |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Tomatoes | 1 min. | No water | Pint | 25 min. + | | | | + String beans | | | | + (very young |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |Quart |1 hr. 15 min. + and tender) | | | | + | | | | + Sweet potatoes| Cook ¾ | 2 |Quart | 3 hrs. + | done |tablespoonfuls| | + | | water | | + | | | | + Sauerkraut | | Brine[1] |Quart | 40 min. + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook ¾ | Hot water |Quart |1 hr. 40 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook ¾ | Hot water | Pint |1 hr. 20 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| |Quart | 1½ hrs. + | thick | | | + | | | | + Apples | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 15 min. + | | | | + Berries | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 13 min. + | | | | + Figs | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Peaches |1-2 min. | No. 2 sirup |Quart | 25 min. + | | | | + Pears | 1 min. | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 25-35 min. + | | | | + Cherries | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirups recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below: + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |SIZE |PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |JAR | EACH OF THREE + | | | | SUCCESSIVE DAYS + ----------------------------------------------------------------- + Corn |2 min. on cob|Water, salt |Pint | 1½ hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Garden peas|1 to 4 min. |Water, salt |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 20 min. + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. + | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Quart| 1¾ hr. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Quart| 1¾ hr. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS + |BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|OR BOIL + + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water | 3 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water |10 | 5 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |10 | 3 | 2 hrs. and + | | | | | 20 min. + | | | | | + Sweet potatoes |Cook ¾ |2 tablespoonfuls| 3 | 3 | 3 hrs. + | done | water | | | + | | | | | + Baby beets |Cook ¾ | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1½ hrs. + | done | | | | + | | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + | thick | | | | + | | | | | + Apples |1 min. | No. 3 sirup | 3 | 3 | 8 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. |No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 10 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 32 min. + | | | | | + Figs | | No. 4 sirup | 2 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Peaches |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 35 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirup recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below. + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 4, use 5 pounds 8 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 5, use 6 pounds 13 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|EACH OF THREE + | | | | |SUCCESSIVE DAYS + + Corn |2 min. on |Water, salt| 2 | 10 |1 hr. and 15 min. + | cob | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Garden peas |1 to 4 min.|Water, salt| 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min.| Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1½ hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1½ hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon of +water.] + +You will notice in the time-table for tin, that there is a column for +"Exhausting." After the can is packed and capped it is placed in the +canner of boiling water to within 1 inch of the top of the can where +it remains the number of minutes, usually three, indicated on the +time-table. This is done to force the air from the can through the +little hole left open in the top, and is called exhausting. Cans that +are not exhausted frequently bulge after processing and are looked +upon with suspicion. Cans exhausted too long frequently cave in at the +sides. The time-table should be used carefully and followed strictly +in this part of the process. Tin cans do not require exhausting in the +Northern and Western states. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES +STEAM PRESSURE + + | | |TEMPERATURE,| | + |VEGETABLE |PROCESS,|DEGREES |PRESSURE| + | |MINUTES |FAHRENHEIT |POUNDS | + + |Asparagus |30 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 2|45 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 3|55 |240 |10 | + |Beets |30 |228 | 5 | + |Corn |80 |250 |15 | + |Okra |30 |240 |10 | + |Peas |45 |240 |10 | + |Soup, concentrated | | | | + | vegetable |30 |228 |10 | + |Spinach |30 |228 |15 | + |Sweet potatoes |70 |250 |15 | + +Corn, lima beans and peas should never be packed in larger container +than No. 2. Corn is cut from cob after blanching. + +The brine used is made of 2½ ounces salt to 1 gallon of water, except +for asparagus, which contains 4 ounces to 1 gallon. + +Beets and rhubarb when packed in tin must be put in enamel-lined cans. + +Process pints as for No. 2 cans; quarts as for No. 3 cans, adding 10 +minutes to each period. + +String beans when more mature should be processed at 15 pounds +pressure for 30 minutes for No. 2, and 45 minutes for No. 3. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + +Every day brings letters to my desk saying, "Why did my jars of +vegetables lose water?" or, "When I looked into my canner I saw all +the beautiful dark sirup in the bottom of the canner instead of in the +jars," or, "What shall I do, my beets are all white?" etc., etc. In +this chapter I am going to try and tell you a few things you must and +must not do. A few "Do's" and "Don'ts" may help you a little in your +canning and food preserving. + +I want to say right here that if you have failures do not blame the +method as we are always so apt to do. Experts have worked long enough, +carefully and thoroughly enough, to convince themselves and others +that the cold-pack method and the intermittent method, which methods +are employed for cooking the product in the jar, are sure, safe, +reliable and efficient methods. So if your food spoils convince +yourself it is not the method but something else. Spoilage is due to +imperfect jars, imperfect rubbers, imperfect sealing of tin cans, +careless blanching, insufficient cold dipping or poor sterilizing. + + +CAN-RUBBERS + +Possibly your canning troubles are all due to using a poor grade of +rubber rings. This is poor economy. Rubbers are apt to give more +trouble than anything else to canners when using glass jars. Many of +the rubbers sold are of a very poor quality, disintegrating quickly +when subjected to heat and strain. My sister, canning in the hot +climate of India, has more trouble with the rubber proposition than +anything else. + +You want good rubbers, are willing to pay for them, and here is what +you should know about rubber rings. + +The one-period, cold-pack method and the intermittent method of home +canning require a rubber ring essentially different from that commonly +used in the old hot-pack method of home canning. Investigation shows +that many of the rings upon the market are unsuitable for these newer +methods, being unable to withstand the long periods of boiling +required in the canning of vegetables and meats. + +Practical canning tests have indicated that rubber rings for use in +this method should meet the following requirements: + +Inside Diameter. The ring should fit closely, requiring a little +stretching to get it around the neck of the jar. For standard jars the +ring should have an inside diameter of 2¼ inches. + +Width of Ring and Flange. The width of the ring or flange may vary +from one-fourth of an inch to twelve thirty-seconds of an inch. Tests +which have been made show that fewer cases of "blow-out" occur when +the flange is ten thirty-seconds of an inch. + +Thickness. Rubber rings as found on the market may vary from 1/18 to +1/10 of an inch in thickness. Tests show that 1/12 of an inch in +thickness is sufficient to take up the unevenness in the jar and still +not so thick as to make it difficult to place the cap or adjust the +bail. + +Cold-pack and intermittent-canning require a rubber ring that is +tough, does not enlarge perceptibly when heated in water or steam, and +is not forced out of position between the top and the jar by slight +pressure within the jar. This we call a "blow-out." + +Rubber rings should be capable of withstanding four hours of +sterilization in boiling water without blowing out on partially sealed +jars, or one hour under ten pounds of steam pressure. They should be +selected with reference to proper inside diameter, width of flange, +and thickness. Good rubber will stretch considerably and return +promptly to place without changing the inside diameter. They should +also be reasonably firm and able to stand without breakage. Color is +given to rings by adding coloring matter during the manufacturing +process. The color of the ring is no index to its usefulness in home +canning. Red, white, black or gray may be used. + +Always use _new_ can-rubbers with each year's product of canned goods. +An old rubber may look like a new one but it has lost its elasticity +and its use may cause imperfect sealing and thus endanger the keeping +quality of the food. This is always a hard thing to impress upon +thrifty penny-saving housekeepers. The old rubber looks so good, so +why not use it? But be wise in this and remember it is _never safe to +use old rubbers_. New rubbers are expensive but what about the cost of +the product, the loss of your time and fuel! One jar lost due to an +old rubber is so much food, time and fuel lost. + +And do not think yourself thrifty to use two old rubber rings instead +of one, thereby thinking to obtain a better seal, for you will not. +Two old rubbers are inferior in strength to one new good rubber. If +you use old rubbers and your canned goods spoil, blame the rubbers. + + +GLASS JARS + +Next in importance to the rubbers are the glass jars you use. There +are many kinds of fruit jars on the market. The question is frequently +asked, "Which jars on the market are the best." The only answer to +that is to choose the jar which is simplest in construction, which +will seal perfectly and wash easily, which protects the contained food +against contact with metal, which has the fewest parts to lose or +misplace and which fits the shelves and receptacles planned to hold +it. + + +FLAT SOUR + +Flat-sour often causes annoyance to beginners in canning some +vegetables, such as corn, peas, beans and asparagus. These canned +foods may show no signs of spoilage and yet when the can is opened the +product may have a sour taste and a disagreeable odor. This +"flat-sour" is not harmful and must not be confused with "botulinus," +which is harmful. However, the taste and odor are so disagreeable you +will have no desire to eat "flat-sour" canned goods. + +This trouble can be avoided if you will use fresh products, that is, +those which have not been allowed to wilt or stand around the shops +for several days, and will blanch, cold-dip, and pack one jar of +product at a time, and place each jar in the canner as it is packed. +The first jars in will not be affected by the extra cooking. When the +steam-pressure canner is used the jars or cans may be placed in the +retort and the cover placed into position but not clamped down until +the retort is filled. + + +TROUBLES WITH CORN + +Corn seems to give the most trouble, but with a little care and study +this product may be canned as easily as any other grown in the garden. +A little experience in selecting the ears and ability to recognize +corn that is just between the milk and dough stage is important. +Blanch not longer than five minutes. A plunge in cold water is +sufficient. Cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife and pack at +once in sterilized jars. Best results can be accomplished when two +people cut and one person fills. If it is necessary for one person to +work alone, cut off sufficient corn to fill one jar, pour on _boiling_ +water, add salt, place rubber and cap in position and put the jar at +once in the canner. A little overcooking does not injure the quality +of canned corn. Corn should not be tightly packed in the jar; it +expands a little in processing and for this reason each jar should be +filled scant full. Corn that has a cheesy appearance after canning had +reached the dough stage before being packed. Corn should never be +allowed to remain in the cold dip and large quantities should not be +dipped at one time unless sufficient help is available to handle the +product quickly. + +Some to be absolutely sure when canning corn, cook it for ten minutes +in hot water before packing into jars. + +Leave fully one inch of space at the top when packing corn but enough +water may be poured into the jar to fill the can or jar, for when the +corn swells the water will be absorbed. + +Corn Turning Dark. A dark color in canned corn is due to some of +the following causes: + +1. Using water that contains too much iron. + +2. Using corn that has reached the dough stage. + +3. Blanching for too long a period--five minutes is sufficient for +corn. + +Water-Logged or Soaked Corn. When canned corn becomes "water-logged" +or "soaked" it is due to such causes as the following: + +1. Allowing the product to stand in the cold water too long after the +hot dip. + +2. Allowing the jars to stand after they have been packed, and filled +with boiling water. The jars should be immediately placed in the +sterilizer after being packed. + +3. Allowing ears of corn to stand in cold water after opening. + +4. Heating corn in warm water over a slow fire. + + +BEETS, THEIR LOSS OF COLOR + +The loss of color in canned beets is due to faulty methods of +preparation before packing them into the jars. To secure good results +3 or 4 inches of the top and all of the tail should be left on while +blanching. Beets should be blanched for five minutes and the skin +should be scraped but not peeled. Beets should be packed whole if +possible. + +Small beets that run forty to a quart are less likely to fade and are +the most suitable size for first-class packs. The older the beets the +more chance there is for loss of color. Well-canned beets will show a +slight loss of color when removed from the canner, but will brighten +up in a few days. + + +CLOUDY PEAS + +The condition of peas known as "cloudy" is due to such causes as the +following: + +1. Cracking the skin of the pea. + +2. Blanching for too long a period. + +3. Use of water which is too hard or has too much mineral content. + + +SHRINKAGE OF PRODUCT DURING CANNING + +Shrinkage may be due to one or more of the following: + +1. Improper blanching and cold-dipping. + +2. Careless packing and using variety of sizes. + +3. Sterilizing for too long a period. + +4. Lack of sizing whole products for the container. + +Sometimes there is a natural shrinkage that cannot be prevented. This +is due to the fact that vegetables contain air in their tissues and +when this air is driven off by the heat, the boiling water in the jar +rushes in to fill its place. In consequence we have an apparent +shrinkage in the amount of water. So be careful to do the blanching as +correctly as possible to drive out the air; however, the product will +keep just as well in a jar half full of water as if entirely covered +with liquid. The contents of the jar whether food or air are sterile. + + +SHRINKAGE OF GREENS + +Shrinkage of greens or pot herbs during the canning process is usually +due to insufficient blanching. The proper way to blanch all greens or +pot herbs is in a steamer or in a vessel improvised to do the +blanching in live steam above the water line. If this is not done +much of the mineral salts and volatile oil contents will be extracted +by the water and lost. + + +LOSS OF LIQUID DURING CANNING + +A loss of liquid in canning with a hot-water-bath outfit may be caused +by one or more of the following: + +1. Not having the water in the sterilizing vat cover the tops of the +jars by at least one inch. + +2. Not providing a suitable platform to hold the jars off the bottom +of the sterilizing vat, permitting circulation of water under as well +as around the jars. + +3. Not having the wire bail that goes over the glass tops of jars +sufficiently tight. + + +REASONS WHY JUICES ARE DRAWN FROM JARS WHEN CANNING WITH STEAM +PRESSURE + +1. Open pet cock after pointer or gauge has reached zero; test for +pressure by opening pet cock slowly at first. The gauge does not +register pressure until about one pound of pressure has formed, hence +opening the pet cock before the pointer is at zero means that from one +to two pounds of pressure is being relieved and this will draw the +juices the same as allowing the boiler to stand and a vacuum to form. + +2. Allowing the pressure to fluctuate during the time of sterilizing, +such as running the pressure up to fifteen, back to seven or eight and +then up again. + +3. Wire bails can be and should be a little tighter when jars are put +in a steam pressure canner. The clamp should be left up as stated. + +4. There may be an escape of steam around the seal of the boiler and +this would allow the pressure on the inside of the boiler to +fluctuate. + +Any one of those four things will always cause loss of juice. + + +OPERATION OF HOT-WATER-BATH OUTFIT + +These four rules will help in the operation of the hot-water-bath +canning outfit: Example, wash boiler. + +1. Support the jars off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and around the jars. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the jars by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the jars. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to _jump_ over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. Remove jars from the water and tighten the covers as soon as the +time is up. + +Rapid cooling of the products prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture. + +Operation of steamers or "double-deckers" as they are sometimes +called. These have a small amount of water in a pan below two racks +and the products cook in steam instead of boiling water. + +1. Have water boiling in pan when products are put in. + +2. Use same time-table as for hot-water bath or wash boiler. + +3. Remove jars from steam at the end of the sterilizing period. Do not +allow them to "cool off" in the steamer. + +The operation of a water-seal canner is very simple. + +1. Jars put on racks and lowered in water as in wash-boiler but due +to an extra jacket the temperature is higher than boiling water. + +2. Follow time-table under water-seal. + + +OPERATION OF STEAM PRESSURE AND PRESSURE COOKER CANNER + +1. Place each jar in the canner as soon as it is packed. + +2. Have water come up to but not above the platform. + +3. Have canner absolutely steam tight. + +4. When canner has been filled fasten opposite clamps moderately +tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Allow pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +6. Close pet cock. + +7. Force pressure to the required point before counting time. + +8. Maintain a uniform pressure during the sterilizing period. + +9. Allow canner to cool before opening pet cock. + +10. Have pet cock completely closed during the cooling. + +11. Open pet cock before vacuum forms. This is evidenced by a rush of +air into the canner when the pet cock is open. You can test this by +placing the finger over the end of the pet cock. If a vacuum forms it +will draw the flesh of the finger into the opening. + +12. Remove jars from canner and tighten lids as soon as canner is +opened. + + +BREAKAGE OF JARS + +When breakage of jars occurs it is due to such causes as these: + +1. Overpacking jars. Corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell or expand +in processing. Do not quite fill jars with these products. + +2. Placing cold jars in hot water or vice versa. As soon as jars are +filled with hot sirup or hot water, place immediately in the canner. + +3. Having the wire bail of glass top jars too tight. + +4. In steam canner, having too much water in the canner. The water +should not come above the tray. + +5. Cold draft striking the jars when they are removed from the canner. + +6. Wire spring too tight, thus breaking jar when contents expand. + + +MOLD ON CANNED PRODUCTS + +Mold may result from one or more of the following: + +1. Leaky rubbers or defective joints. + +2. Removing tops from the jars at the end of sterilizing period and +substituting new rubbers, without returning the jars to the canning +outfit for at least a few minutes. + +3. If the jars are kept in a damp cellar where the rubbers may +decompose, mold may enter through these decomposed rubbers. + + +ACIDITY OF TOMATOES AFTER CANNING + +Too great a degree of acidity in canned tomatoes may be due to +climatic conditions or overripe or underripe product. Such acidity +can be corrected by adding ¼ teaspoonful of baking soda to one quart +of tomatoes. + + +WATER REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME CANNING + +The hardening of beans, peas and some other products after cooking or +processing, or the turning of green vegetables to a dark or russet +color usually indicates that the water contains too high a percentage +of mineral matter. Water used for canning purposes should be pure, +soft if possible or as free from objectionable and excessive qualities +of mineral matter as possible. If you are to can any large quantity of +food products and have difficulty with the water available, it would +be well for you to have the water analyzed and for you to secure the +advice of some one at your college of agriculture. + + +TOO MUCH SALT IN CANNED GOODS INJURIOUS TO QUALITY + +Most vegetables as well as meats are injured in quality by an +excessive use of salt for seasoning in the canning process. A little +salt is very palatable and its use should be encouraged but it is +better to add no salt in canning than to use too much, as it can be +added to suit the taste when served. + + +ALTITUDE AND ITS EFFECT ON CANNING + +Remember that practically all instructions on home canning are based +upon a time schedule for sterilization from sea level to an altitude +of 500 feet above sea level. When canning at an altitude of more than +500 feet above sea level, it will be necessary to use your judgment in +the increase of time for sterilizing on the basis of 20 per cent for +each 4,000 feet. + +Blanching means _boiling_, not hot. In different directions for +canning we often find "hot" water mentioned when boiling water is +intended. Water should be _boiling at a gallop_ when vegetables are +blanched--berries and soft fruits are not usually blanched, though +some are scalded to loosen the skin. + + +BERRIES OR FRUIT RISING TO THE TOP + +Some women are disturbed because berries and fruits have a tendency to +always rise to the top of the jar leaving a sirup space in the bottom. +To prevent this you can scald all berries and fruits which are not +ordinarily scalded, for one minute and then cold-dip them. They will +be softened some, but remain firm, and can be packed very closely in a +jar. They can be packed so closely that only a little sirup can be +added. When a jar thus packed comes from the sterilizer the berries or +fruit are not floating as they would be if they were not scalded. + +Another method employed to prevent berries from floating is to put the +hot sterilized jar on its side while cooling and to roll it frequently +during the cooling period. The berries are then evenly distributed +through the sirup. + +In canning mushrooms in tin, always use lacquered cans. Do not fail to +blanch and cold dip before packing, and remove the mushrooms +immediately after opening the tin cans. + +In canning cabbage and other similar products always soak the product +in cold brine for one hour before sterilizing. Use ½ pound salt to 12 +quarts water. This is believed to improve the flavor. Always wash +greens or other vegetables, to remove all dirt and grit. + + +TROUBLES WITH TIN CANS + +To discover pin-holes or any leaks in a tin can, immerse it in boiling +water after sealing and if there is any bubbling from the can, you may +rest assured it needs resealing. + +Swells in tin cans are caused by insufficient sterilization. The +action of bacteria causes gas to form in the can and as a result there +is a bulging at either end. If left alone long enough the cans will +explode. Watch carefully all bulging cans and use them first. +Sometimes a slight bulge occurs when a can has been filled too full. + +If you have trouble sealing tin cans the chances are that the can is +too full. See that no particle of food touches the top or when +soldering, if you employ that method of sealing, small pin holes will +be blown in the seal by escaping steam which is generated by the hot +sealer coming in contact with the cold food. Another cause of sealing +trouble lies sometimes in a poorly heated capping steel or because it +is not kept brightly tinned. To make a proper seal the steel must be +kept bright, hot and clean. + +Also, be sure you buy good solder as there are inferior grades that +are too poor to flow when properly heated. + + +FROZEN PRODUCTS + +Watch all jars and cans that have been subjected to a freeze. If the +cans or jars do not burst the only harm done is a slight softening of +the food tissues. In glass jars after freezing there is sometimes a +small crack left which will admit air and consequently bacteria. + +Sometimes cans and jars tip over in the wash boiler during +sterilizing. This is caused by using a false-bottom which is too low +or because it is not well perforated. Or it may be due to the fact +that the jar was not well packed and so may be too light in weight. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +GETTING READY TO DRY + + +For various reasons women have not taken so kindly to drying fruits +and vegetables as they have to canning these foods. + +One woman said to me: "I like the canning because I can come to a +demonstration and see the whole process carried through from start to +finish. The drying of strawberries cannot be completed in sixteen +minutes as the canning is." And another woman said: "What I do not +like about drying is having the stuff standing round the house +somewhere for so many hours. I like to get things in the jars and out +of sight." + +These two objections seem to be expressed more than any other. And in +addition there is a third objection to drying: "I want my prepared +food ready to use on a minute's notice. I can quickly open a can of my +fruit and vegetables and there it is ready. With my dried things I +have to allow time for soaking and cooking." This we will have to +admit is true. But what weight have these three arguments against the +many advantages of drying? + +When we study the history of food preservation we find that drying was +practiced before canning, pickling or preserving. I know my +grandmother successfully dried quantities of things. + +Vegetable and fruit drying have been little practiced for a +generation or more, though there have been some thrifty housekeepers +who have clung to their dried corn, peas, beans and apples. A friend +of mine says: "Why, dried corn has a much better, sweeter taste than +your canned stuff. I would rather have one little dish of my delicious +dried corn than two big dishes of your canned corn." + +Drying, I think we will all admit, does not and cannot take the place +of canning fruits and vegetables in glass or tin. Drying and canning +are twin sisters, and always go hand in hand. + +The ideal arrangement for all homes, whether on the farm, in the +village, in the town or in the city, is to have an ample supply of +canned food for emergencies and quick service, and an equally ample +supply of dried foods when meals are planned beforehand and there is +time enough for the soaking and cooking of the dried foods. + + +THE ADVANTAGES OF DRYING + +When we come right down to facts, drying has many advantages over +canning. + +The process is very simple, as you will see. The cost is slight. In +almost every home the necessary equipment, in its simplest form, is +already at hand. There is no expense for glass jars or tin cans, and +with ordinary care there is no loss of products, as there may be in +handling glass jars or from spoilage. The actual work requires less +time and less skill than canning and the dried products when properly +prepared are just as good as the canned ones--some say better. + +One special thing in favor of drying is the little storage space +needed. You can often reduce 100 pounds of fresh product to ten +pounds by drying, without any loss of food value and with little loss +of flavor. + +Dried products can be moved more conveniently than glass jars or tin +cans, for they are usually reduced to from one-third to one-fifth of +the original bulk. + +Another valuable thing about drying is that the little odds and ends +one would scarcely bother to can may be dried in the oven as you go +about your housework. + +I have often been asked the difference between the meaning of the +terms "evaporated," "dried," "desiccated" and "dehydrated." These +terms are used more or less interchangeably when applied to foods from +which the moisture has been removed. In a general way, however, +"evaporated" products are those from which the moisture has been +removed through the agency of artificial heat; dried fruit is that +which has been exposed to the heat of the sun, though not infrequently +the term is applied to products handled in the evaporator. The other +terms are commonly applied to products that have been evaporated by +one of the various patented processes in which equipment of some +special design has been used. + +To avoid any confusion we will use the general term "dried" for all +products that have enough of the water removed to prevent bacterial +action, but which still retain the maximum food value, color and +flavor of the original product. And that is what we want to accomplish +when we attempt to dry. + +How are we to remove the water and still retain food value, color and +flavor? There are three principal methods by which we can do this. +First, by artificial heat. Drying by artificial heat is done in the +oven or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays suspended on the +stove or in a specially constructed dryer built at home or purchased. + +Second, by the sun. Sun drying is done either out of doors in the sun, +under glass in sun parlors, or the products are hung in the attic +where the sun has free access. + +Third, satisfactory drying may be done by an air blast from an +electric fan. + +Of course any one of these may be used alone or two different methods +may be combined. You can start a product on the stove and finish it in +the sun, or _vice versa._ + +The simplest and yet the most effective drying may be done on plates +or dishes placed in the oven. It may be done on the back of the +kitchen stove with these same utensils while the oven is being used +for baking. In this way left-overs and other bits of food may be dried +with slight trouble while the stove is being used, and saved for +winter use. This method is especially effective for sweet corn. A few +sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a single turnip, may be dried +and saved. + +To keep the heat from being too great, when drying in the oven leave +the oven door partly open. For oven use, a simple tray may be made of +galvanized-wire screen of convenient size, with the edges bent up for +an inch or two on each side. At each corner this tray should have a +leg an inch or two in length to hold it up from the bottom of the oven +and permit circulation of air round the product. + +Oven drying in a gas range is an effective method if the temperature +is kept even. An oven thermometer is a great convenience, otherwise +the temperature will have to be carefully watched and the burners +turned as low as possible. It is economy in the end to purchase an +oven thermometer, for then you can have the temperature just right. It +is best to start the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit and dry at +130 degrees. Never go over 150 degrees. + +If you wish to dry in the oven over the kerosene stove, place +soapstones over each burner to prevent the heat from becoming too +intense. Turn the burners very low until the stones are thoroughly +heated. You can turn off the burners completely after the desired +temperature is reached and it will be maintained from the heat of the +stones for five or six hours. If more time than that is required for +the drying, it may be necessary to light the burners again before the +end of the process. The products should be turned constantly, so that +they may dry evenly. + +When using any oven for drying you can cover the oven racks with +cheesecloth and spread the products on them. Always have the racks two +or three inches apart to allow free circulation of air. + +An effective dryer for use over a stove or range may easily be made at +home. For the frame use strips of wood a half inch thick and two +inches wide. The trays or shelves are made of galvanized-wire screen +of small mesh tacked to the supports. Separate trays sliding on strips +attached to the framework are desirable. This dryer may be suspended +from the ceiling over the kitchen stove or range or over an oil, +gasoline or gas stove, and it may be used while cooking is being done. +If an oil stove is used there must be a tightly fitting tin or +galvanized-iron bottom to the dryer, to prevent the fumes of the oil +from reaching and passing through the material which is to be dried. A +bottom of this kind may be easily attached to any dryer, homemade or +commercial. A framework crane makes it possible for this dryer to be +swung to one side when not in use. + +A larger kind of homemade stove dryer can be made. This is a good +size: base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The lower part or +supporting framework, six inches high, is made of galvanized sheet +iron, slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with two ventilating +holes in each of the four sides. The frame which rests on this base is +made of strips of wood one or one and a half inches wide. Wooden +strips, an inch and a quarter wide and three inches apart, serve to +brace the sides and furnish supports for the trays. + +In a dryer of the dimensions given there is room for eight trays. The +sides, top and back are of galvanized-iron or tin sheets, tacked to +the framework, though thin strips of wood may be used instead of the +metal. Small hinges and a thumb latch are provided for the door. +Galvanized sheet iron, with numerous small holes in it, is used for +making the bottom of the dryer. To prevent direct heat from coming in +contact with the product and also to distribute the heat by radiation, +a piece of galvanized sheet iron is placed two inches above the +bottom. This piece is three inches shorter and three inches narrower +than the bottom and rests on two wires fastened to the sides. + +The trays are made of wooden frames of one-inch strips, to which is +tacked galvanized-wire screen. Each tray should be three inches +shorter than the dryer and enough narrower to allow it to slide +easily on the supports when being put in or taken out. + +In placing the trays in the dryer push the lower one back as far as it +will go, leaving a three-inch space in front. Place the next tray even +with the front, leaving the space at the back. Alternate all the trays +in this way to facilitate the circulation of the heated air. It is +well to have a ventilating opening, six by two inches, in the top of +the dryer to discharge moisture. The trays should be shifted during +the drying process to procure uniformity of drying. + +Several types of stove dryers are on the market. One of these has a +series of trays in a framework, forming a compartment. This is placed +on top of the stove. Another is a shallow metal box which is filled +with water. This is really a water-bath dryer. This dryer or +dehydrator can be used on either a gas or coal range. A thermometer is +necessary in order to maintain the right temperature. The slices of +vegetables or fruit are placed on the tray with the thermometer, and +the dryer does the work. + +Commercial dryers having their own furnaces may be bought at prices +ranging from $24 to $120. Some of these, in the smaller sizes, may be +bought without furnaces and used on top of the kitchen stove. The cost +is from $16 upward. + +Sun drying has much to recommend it. There is no expense for fuel, no +thermometer is needed, and there is no danger of overheating the +fruits or vegetables. + +For sun drying of fruits and vegetables, the simplest way is to spread +the slices or pieces on sheets of plain paper or lengths of muslin and +expose them to the sun. Muslin is to be preferred if there is danger +of sticking. Trays may be used instead of paper or muslin. Sun drying +requires bright, hot days and a breeze. Once or twice a day the +product should be turned or stirred and the dry pieces taken out. The +drying product should be covered with cheesecloth tacked to a frame +for protection from dust and flying insects. If trays are rested on +supports placed in pans of water, the products will be protected from +crawling insects. Care must be taken to provide protection from rain, +dew and moths. During rains and just before sunset the products should +be taken indoors. + +To make a cheap tray for use in sun drying, take strips of wood +three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches wide for the sides and +ends. To form the bottom, laths should be nailed to these strips, with +spaces of one-eighth of an inch between the laths to permit air +circulation. A length of four feet, corresponding to the standard +lengths of laths, is economical. Instead of the laths galvanized-wire +screen with openings of one-eighth or one-quarter of an inch, may be +used. In using wire the size of the tray should be regulated by the +width of wire screen obtainable. The trays should be of uniform size, +so that they may be stacked together for convenience in handling. + +A small homemade sun dryer, easily constructed, is made of light +strips of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of galvanized-wire +screen and some cheesecloth. A convenient size for the glass top is +eighteen by twenty-four inches. To hold the glass make a light wooden +frame of strips of wood a half inch thick and one inch wide. This +frame should have legs of material one by one and a half inches, with +a length of twelve inches for the front legs and eighteen inches for +those in the rear. This will cause the top to slope, which aids in +circulation of air and gives direct exposure to the rays of the sun. +As a tray support nail a strip of wood to the legs on each of the four +sides, about four inches below the top framework and sloping parallel +with the top. The tray is made of thin strips of wood about two inches +wide and has a galvanized-wire screen bottom. There will be a space of +about two inches between the top edges of the tray and the glass top +of the dryer, to allow for circulation of air. + +Protect both sides, the bottom and the front of the dryer with +cheesecloth, tacked on securely and snugly, to exclude insects and +dust without interfering with circulation. At the rear place a +cheesecloth curtain, tacked at the top but swinging free below, to +allow the tray to be moved in and out. Brace the bottom of this +curtain with a thin strip of wood, as is done in window shades. This +curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons when the tray is in +place. If you have a sunny, breezy attic you can hang your drying +trays there. + +The use of an electric fan is an effective means of drying. As there +is no danger of the food scorching, the fan proves as effective as the +sun for drying. + +Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed on trays one foot wide and +three feet long. These trays are stacked and the fan placed close to +one end, with the current of air directed lengthwise along the trays. +The number of trays to be used is regulated by the size of the fan. +Drying by this process may be done in twenty-four hours or less. With +sliced string beans and shredded sweet potatoes a few hours are +sufficient if the air is dry. + +Of importance equal to proper drying is the proper packing and storage +of the finished product. Use baking-powder and coffee cans and similar +covered tins, pasteboard boxes with tight-fitting covers, strong paper +bags, and patented paraffin paper boxes, which may be bought in +quantities at comparatively low cost. + +A paraffin container of the type used by oyster dealers for the +delivery of oysters will be found inexpensive and easily handled. If +using this or a baking-powder can or similar container, after filling +adjust the cover closely. The cover should then be sealed. To do this +paste a strip of paper round the top of the can, covering the joint +between can and cover for the purpose of excluding air. Pasteboard +boxes should be sealed by applying melted paraffin with a brush to the +joint. + +If a paper bag is used the top should be twisted, doubled over and +tied with a string. Moisture may be kept out of paper bags by coating +them, using a brush dipped into melted paraffin. Another good +precaution is to store bags in an ordinary lard pail or can or other +tin vessel having a closely fitting cover. + +The products should be stored in a cool, dry place, well ventilated +and protected from rats, mice and insects. In localities where the air +is very moist, moisture-proof containers must be used. It is good +practice to use small containers, so that it will not be necessary to +leave the contents exposed long after opening and before using. + +A very good plan is to pack just enough fruit or vegetables for one or +two meals in each container. This will lessen the chance of large +quantities being spoiled. For convenience label all packages. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + +Having decided to add the accomplishment of drying to your other +housewifely arts, you have given some thought and study to the subject +of driers. You now know whether you prefer sun, artificial or fan +drying. You have either made or bought some kind of a drier. Little +other equipment is needed. + +A few good paring knives, some plates, and if possible some cutting or +slicing device to lighten the work of preparation are all that are +necessary. A sharp kitchen knife will serve every purpose in slicing +and cutting fruits for drying, if no other device is at hand. The +thickness of all slices of fruit should be from an eighth to a quarter +of an inch. Whether sliced or cut into strips the pieces should be +small, so as to dry quickly. They should not, however, be so small as +to make them hard to handle or to keep them from being used to +advantage in preparing dishes for the table, such as would be prepared +from fresh products. Berries are dried whole. Apples, quinces, peaches +and pears dry better if cut into halves, rings or quarters. + +Cleanliness is essential. A knife blade that is not bright and clean +will discolor the product on which it is used. + +Winter apples should be chosen for drying when possible, as sweet +apples and early varieties are not so well adapted to the purpose. +The Northern Spy, the Baldwin and the Ben Davis give a good-flavored +dried product. Most early varieties lack sufficient firmness of +texture for the best results. On the other hand, some comparatively +early kinds, such as Gravenstein and Porter, are considerably prized +in some sections. + +To prepare them for drying, apples are peeled, cored, trimmed and +sliced one quarter of an inch thick. Be sure to cut out all worm +holes, decayed spots and other blemishes. Defects are easily cut out +with an ordinary straight-back, sharp-pointed knife having a blade two +and a half to three inches long. + +To prevent discoloration, as fast as the fruit is prepared dip it into +a weak salt solution--three level teaspoonfuls of salt to one gallon +of water. After all the apples are prepared, remove surplus moisture +and put on trays, water-bath drier or whatever device you are using. + + +HOW TO REGULATE THE HEAT + +Start with the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually raise +it to 130 degrees and do the drying at that temperature. It is +important to know the degree of heat in the drier, and this cannot be +determined very accurately except by using a thermometer. Inexpensive +oven thermometers can be bought or an ordinary thermometer can be +suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not used the greatest care +should be given to the regulation of the heat. The temperature in the +drier rises rather quickly and the product may scorch unless close +attention is given to it. + +The reason sun drying is popularly believed to give fruits and +vegetables a sweeter flavor probably is that in the sun they never are +scorched, whereas in the oven or over a stove scorching is likely to +happen unless one is very careful. An oven or dairy thermometer is a +good investment. If you do not have a thermometer test the heat by the +air feeling warm to the hand. The product should never be so hot that +it cannot be grasped in the hand. In order to prevent the fruit from +burning where artificial heat is used and to keep it from sticking to +the drier by remaining in contact with it too long, stir the fruit +occasionally. To insure the most uniform drying in sun drying, the +fruit also should be stirred occasionally. + +Remember that if trays with metal bottoms are used for drying, they +should be covered with cheesecloth to prevent acid action. Oven racks +may be covered with either cheesecloth or heavy wrapping paper. + +The interval between stirring varies with the type of drier used, with +the condition of the fruit and with the degree of heat maintained. +Make the first stirring within two hours after the drying is begun. +After that examine the product from time to time and stir often enough +to prevent scorching or sticking and to insure uniform drying. Use a +wooden paddle for stirring. Where several trays or racks are placed +one above the other, it is necessary to shift the trays from time to +time, so the upper tray goes to the bottom and the bottom tray to the +top. + +The time necessary for drying fruit depends upon several factors: The +type and construction of the drier; the depth to which the fruit is +spread; the method of preparing, whether sliced, quartered or whole; +the temperature maintained; and weather conditions, whether bright +and sunny or cloudy and damp. + +If the atmosphere is heavy and damp the drying is retarded. Under some +conditions it is hardly possible thoroughly to dry fruit. + +There is possibly no step in the entire drying process that requires +better-trained judgment than the matter of knowing when the fruit is +sufficiently dried. A little experience will soon teach this. + +The fruit should be so dry that when a handful of slices is pressed +together firmly into a ball the slices will be "springy" enough to +separate at once upon being released from the hand. No fruit should +have any visible moisture on the surface. As the dried apples, pears, +peaches and apricots are handled they should feel soft and velvety to +the touch and have a pliable texture. You do not want fruit so dry +that it will rattle. If fruits are brittle you have dried them too +much. + +After the apples and all other fruits are dried they must go through +another process, called "conditioning." The best way to "condition" +fruits is to place them in boxes or cans and pour them from one +container into another once a day for three or four successive days. +By doing this you mix the fruit thoroughly and give to the whole mass +an even degree of moisture. Pieces that are too dry will absorb +moisture from those that are too moist. + +You may lose a whole bag or jar of dried products if you neglect the +conditioning, for if one moist piece goes into that bag all is lost. +Moisture breeds mold and mold means decay. + +Ask yourself these questions: "Do I ever lose any dried products? Are +my dried products when soaked and cooked as near like the original +fruit as possible?" If you lose products and if your dried fruits are +tasteless you had better start the conditioning process. For with this +one step added to your drying you need lose no dried products, and you +need not dry the fruits to the brittle stage, as you must of necessity +do when you put them away immediately. + +After you have poured the dried products back and forth every day for +three or four days as an additional precaution, reheat the dried fruit +to 140 degrees just long enough--about thirty minutes--to allow the +heat to penetrate throughout the product. + +Two kinds of moths stand out prominently among insects that attack +dried fruits and vegetables. They are much more likely to get into the +fruit during the process of drying than to find their way through +boxes into the stored products. This applies particularly to drying in +the sun. The Indian-meal moth is the most destructive of these +insects. It is about three-eighths of an inch long and has a cloaked +appearance, one-third gray and the rest copper-brown. The fig moth is +about the same size, but dark, neutral gray. A minute, flattened +chocolate-brown beetle usually accompanies these moths and does +considerable damage. Both of the moths deposit their eggs on fruit +when it is on the drying racks--usually at dusk or after dark, for +these insects are not fond of daylight. + +It takes from three to ten days for the eggs to hatch into whitish or +pinkish grublike caterpillars, and from five to ten weeks from the +laying of the eggs before more moths appear to lay another lot of +eggs. A number of "broods" or generations are produced yearly, so if +a few of these moth eggs are stored away on dried fruits or vegetables +hundreds of caterpillars are produced and many pounds of valuable +material may be destroyed during the winter if the products are stored +in a warm room. Dried fruits stored in warm, dark bins or in sacks +offer especially favorable places for the development of these +destructive moths. + +It is evident that the larger the package, the greater the chance of a +few eggs doing much damage. Small cartons or containers confine the +injury from these moths to small quantities of material; for if the +containers are closed tightly the insects cannot easily escape from +them and infest other packages which may not have been infested +previously. + +If you are drying by sun and the products are not thoroughly dry at +night, finish the process on the stove. If you desire to carry it over +to the next day screen the drying racks early in the evening and +fasten down the cheesecloth. With these precautions and with proper +storage, no danger ordinarily need be feared from these insects. The +additional precaution of heating the dried product to 140 degrees for +thirty minutes sterilizes it if already infested. + +Though not necessary, tin cans or glass jars make good receptacles for +storage of dried fruits or vegetables. Pasteboard boxes with tight +covers, stout paper bags and patented paraffin paper cartons also +afford ample protection for dried products when protected from insects +and rodents. The dried products must be protected from outside +moisture, and will keep best in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. +These conditions, however, are difficult to obtain in the more humid +regions, and there moisture-tight containers should be used. If a +small amount of dried product is put in each receptacle, just enough +for one or two meals, it will not be necessary to open a container, +the contents of which cannot be consumed in a short time. If a paper +bag is used the upper part should be twisted into a neck, bent over +and tied tightly with a string. A further precaution is to place the +small bags in a tin container with a tightly fitting cover, such as an +ordinary lard can. All bags should bear a label. + +Pears and quinces usually are prepared and dried exactly as are +apples. Pears are attractive when cut lengthwise into halves, with the +stem and calyx removed but the core left in. Or they may be quartered. +If sliced like apples the drying period is shortened. + +Peaches usually are dried unpeeled, but they are better if peeled +before drying. The first step in the preparation of peaches is to +split them open to remove the pit. To do this, cut completely round +the peach in the line of the suture with a sharp knife. The cut must +be complete, for tearing of the flesh will make the finished product +less attractive. If the fruit is to be peeled the paring should be +done before it is cut open to remove the pit. + +To facilitate the removal of the skin, dip the peaches in a kettle of +boiling water for one and a half minutes; then plunge directly into +cold water, after which the skins can be easily slipped off. After the +pit has been removed, lay on drier pit side up. The juice of the fruit +will collect in the pit or "cup" and will add to the flavor and +quality of the dried peaches. The peaches can be cut into smaller +pieces if you wish to lessen the drying period. + +Plums and apricots are not peeled, but are cut into halves, the pits +removed and dried in the same way as peaches. Small, thin-fleshed +varieties of plums are not suitable for drying. + +When drying cherries always remove the stems. The pits may or may not +be removed. The best product for later cooking or eating has the pit +removed, though large quantities of juices are lost in the pitting +unless you provide some way of saving and utilizing it. + +A prune is simply a plum having certain qualities not possessed by all +plums. All prunes are plums, but not all plums are prunes. The final +test as to whether a plum is a prune is the ability to dry without +fermenting with the pit still remaining in the fruit. If a plum cannot +dry without fermentation unless the pit is removed, it is not a prune. +Prunes for drying, like other fruits, should be fully ripe. + +Prunes are merely washed and then dried without removing the pits. The +fruit is dry when the skin is well shrunken. The texture should be +firm but springy and pliable enough to yield readily when pressed in +the hand. The drying should not be continued until the individual +prunes rattle as they are brought in contact with one another in +handling. Prunes must be conditioned before storing. + +In drying, prunes shrink about two-thirds in weight--that is, for +every three pounds of fresh fruit you get one pound of finished +product. + +Smaller fruits, such as red and black raspberries, blackberries, +huckleberries, dewberries, strawberries and blueberries, are simply +washed and then put to dry. Berries must not be dried too hard; if +too much moisture is removed they will not resume their original form +when soaked in water. But the material must be dried sufficiently or +it will mold. Haven't you often tasted extremely seedy dried berries? +They were dried until they rattled. Stop the drying as soon as the +berries fail to stain the hand when pressed. + +To obtain the most satisfactory results soft fruits should be only one +layer deep on the drying trays. + +Fruits contain about 80 to 95 per cent water and when dried +sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per cent of water, so it is a +good plan to weigh before and after drying. The product should lose +from two-thirds to four-fifths of its weight. + + +STEPS IN FRUIT DRYING + +1. Thoroughly cleanse the product. + +2. Prepare the product by slicing and so on. + +3. Spread on trays; put in oven or put on commercial drier. + +4. Stir occasionally. + +5. Shift trays. + +6. Test for completeness of drying. + +7. "Condition" for three or four days. Sweet fruits may contain more +moisture without spoiling than those of low sugar content. + +8. Heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for thirty minutes, to kill all +insects. + +9. Pack immediately in available receptacles. + +10. Label and store. + + +FRUIT PASTES + +Fruit pastes are delicious and can be dried. + +1. Select, wash, prepare fruit. +2. Cook until soft; stir. +3. Add sugar to sweeten. +4. Continue cooking until very thick. +5. Spread out flat by spoonfuls on oiled paper. +6. Dry in slow oven; finish drying over kitchen range. +7. Turn from time to time like griddle cakes. + +Nuts of all kinds can be dried in these cakes, which may be left whole +or cut in strips with scissors. + + +CANDIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES + +1. Select product of uniform size and ripeness. + +2. Wash; prepare in usual way. + +3. Cut fruit in halves, quarters or smaller sections; cut vegetables +in narrow strips two and a half inches long. + +4. Drop in a sirup cooked until it spins a thread. To prepare ginger +sirup, add a few roots of ginger to the sirup. + +5. Cook until transparent. + +6. Drain. + +7. Dry in slow oven; Finish drying over kitchen range. + +8. Roll in granulated sugar. (May be omitted for fruits.) + + +This method is recommended especially for candied apples, peaches, +pears and carrots. + +In a properly constructed sun drier, all fruits will dry in from 3 to +12 hours, under normal summer conditions. Time depends on dryness of +atmosphere, sunshine and wind. Products dried in a sun drier, no +matter how crude, are superior to those dried in the open without +protection of some kind. Products dry more rapidly in high altitudes +than at sea level. + +Racks in oven can be used. Plates or platters can be used in oven. A +stove drier hung over the stove can be used. A water-bath or other +commercial drier can be used with the stove. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING FRUITS + +[A] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TIME IN HOURS TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° F. + +[B] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] + | | | + Apples | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Drop in salt solution, 3 | | + |level teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of | | + | water to prevent discoloration. | | + | | | + Apricots |Remove pits, but do not peel. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + | into halves and dry, "cup" side | | + | up. | | + Berries, All| | | + Kinds | Wash; stem or hull. | 4-5 | 24-36 + | | | + Cherries | Remove stems. Pit or not, as | 2-4 | 24-36 + | desired. If pitted, save and | | + | utilize juice. | | + | | | + Pears | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Or peel, cut in halves | | + | lengthwise; remove stems and | | + | calyx. | | + | | | + Peaches |Peel, remove stones; cut in halves| 4-6 | 24-36 + | or smaller pieces. If in halves, | | + |lay pit or "cup" side up to retain| | + | juice. | | + | | | + Plums |Do not peel, but remove pits. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + |in halves and dry, "cup" side up. | | + | | | + Prunes | Wash; do not pit. | 5-7 | 24-36 + | | | + Quinces | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. | | + | | | + Rhubarb | Select young stems. Wash and cut | 6-8 | 24-36 + | into ½" pieces, using very sharp | | + |knife. Do not remove skins, so the| | + | rhubarb will retain pink color. | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + +Vegetable drying is a little more complicated than fruit drying, just +as vegetable canning is more complicated than fruit canning. Blanching +is an important part of the operation. It makes vegetable drying +satisfactory as well as easy and simple, just as it makes vegetable +canning possible. + +However, there is one difference between blanching vegetables for +canning and blanching them for drying. After repeated experiments it +has been found that for drying purposes it is best to blanch all +vegetables in steam rather than in boiling water. In vegetable canning +we blanch almost all vegetables in boiling water, usually steaming +only the members of the "green" family. + +So remember that for drying all vegetables are blanched in steam. To +do this steaming you can use your ordinary household steamer, such as +you use for steaming brown breads and suet puddings, or you can simply +place a colander over boiling water in a kettle. Do not allow the +colander to touch the water. If you are fortunate enough to possess a +pressure cooker, steam the vegetables for drying in it. + +Blanching is necessary for many reasons. It removes the strong +flavors, objectionable to many people. Beans, cabbage, turnips and +onions have too strong a flavor if dried without blanching. +Furthermore, it starts the color to flowing, just as it does in +canning. It removes the sticky coating round vegetables. Most +vegetables have a protective covering to prevent evaporation. The +removal of this covering by blanching facilitates drying. Blanching +also relaxes the tissues, drives out the air and improves the +capillary attraction, and as a result the drying is done in a much +shorter period. Products dry less rapidly when the texture is firm and +the tissue contains air. + +Blanching checks the ripening processes. The ripening process is +destroyed by heating and this is to be desired for drying purposes. + +Blanching kills the cells and thus prevents the hay-like flavor so +often noticed in unblanched products. It prevents changes after +drying, which otherwise will occur unless the water content is reduced +to about five per cent. + +Thorough blanching makes the product absolutely sanitary; no insect +eggs exist after blanching and cold-dipping. + +There is one precaution that must be followed: Do not blanch too long. +Blanching too long seems to break down the cell structure, so that the +product cannot be restored to its original color, shape or size. +Follow the blanching time-table for drying just as carefully as you +follow the blanching time-table for canning. + +After the blanching comes the cold-dip. For the benefit of new canning +and drying enthusiasts, let me explain that by "cold-dip" we mean +plunging the product immediately into a pan of very cold water or +holding it under the cold-water faucet until the product is thoroughly +cooled. Do not let the product stand in cold water, as it would then +lose more food value and absorb too much water. + +You can cold-dip the product without removing it from the colander, +strainer or steamer in which it is steamed. Plunge the vessel +containing the product into the cold water. + +The cold-dipping checks the cooking, sets the coloring matter which +was started to flowing in the blanching process, and it makes the +product much easier to handle. + +Let us now see just exactly what we must do when we want to dry sweet +corn, more of which is dried than of any other vegetable. All other +vegetables are dried in the same way as is corn, the only difference +being in the length of the blanching and drying period. + +All vegetables are prepared for drying just as they are prepared for +table use. When drying corn select ears that are young and tender, and +if possible freshly gathered. Products for drying should be in the +same perfect condition as you have them for table use. If wilted and +old it is not worth while drying them. + +Remove the husks and the silk, and steam--on the cob--for fifteen +minutes. This sets the milk, besides doing many other things which +blanching by steam always does. After the steaming, cold-dip the corn, +and then cut it from the cob, using a very sharp and flexible knife. +Cut the grains fine, but only halfway down to the cob; scrape out the +remainder of the grains, being careful not to scrape off any of the +chaff next to the cob. + +When field corn is used, the good, plump cooking stage is the proper +degree of ripeness for satisfactory drying. + +The corn should be thoroughly drained as this facilitates drying. You +can easily remove all surface moisture by placing the corn between +two towels and patting them. + +It is now ready for drying. The corn may be dried in the sun, but if +so, it is advisable first to dry it in the oven for ten or fifteen +minutes and then finish the drying in the sun. Never attempt sun +drying in moist weather. The corn may be dried by artificial heat, +either on top of the stove or in the oven, using either plates, +oven-racks properly covered, or any commercial dryer. + +Work quickly after the blanching and cold-dipping and get the corn +heated as quickly as possible in order to prevent souring. You get +"flat-sour" often when canning if you do not work quickly enough, and +you will get sour vegetables in drying if you work too slowly. + +Where artificial heat is used begin at a lower temperature and +gradually increase it. As the corn is drying, stir it from time to +time and readjust the trays if necessary. + +After the drying comes the test to determine whether or not the corn +is sufficiently dry. Vegetables at this point differ from fruits. +Fruits are dried only until leathery, whereas vegetables are dried +until they are bone-dry. They must crackle and snap. + +This test is sometimes used to see if the product is sufficiently dry: +Put some of it in a covered glass jar with a crisp soda cracker and +keep them there for a few hours. If the cracker loses its crispness +and becomes soft and damp there is still too much moisture in the +product and it should be dried a little longer to obtain the degree of +dryness required. + +After the corn is bone-dry it should, like all other vegetables and +fruits, be conditioned. This means to pour them from one bag or box +to another, once a day for three or four days. This enables you to +notice any moisture that may be left in the dried food. Foods that +show any traces of moisture should be returned to the drying tray for +a short time. + +Notice Lima beans particularly, as they require a longer conditioning +period than most vegetables. + +After the conditioning, in order to kill all insects and destroy all +eggs, it is advisable to place the vegetables on trays and heat them +in an oven for half an hour at a temperature of 140 degrees +Fahrenheit. Store directly from the oven. + +Dried vegetables are stored just as are dried fruits--in cans, cracked +jars that cannot be used for canning, fiber containers, cheesecloth, +paper bags or paraffin containers. + +In storing your dried products keep in mind these things: Protection +from moisture, insects, rats, mice, dust and light. If you observe all +these things it is unnecessary to have air-tight containers. + +All varieties of string beans can be dried, but only those fit for +table use should be used. Old, stringy, tough beans will remain the +same kind of beans when dried. There are two ways of preparing string, +wax or snap beans for drying: + +1. Wash; remove stem, tip and string. Cut or break into pieces +one-half to one inch long; blanch three to ten minutes, according to +age and freshness, in steam; cold-dip. Place on trays or dryer. If you +have a vegetable slicer it can be used for slicing the beans. + +2. Prepare as above, then blanch the whole beans. After cold-dipping, +thread them on coarse, strong thread, making long "necklaces" of +them; hang them above the stove or out of doors until dry. + +Lima beans should be shelled from the pod and then blanched two to +five minutes if young and tender. If larger and more mature blanch +five to ten minutes. + +Okra is blanched for three minutes. If the pods are young and small, +dry them whole. Older pods should be cut into quarter-inch slices. +Small tender pods are sometimes strung on stout thread and hung up to +dry. + +Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, removing the seed, +drying in the air, and finishing the drying in the dryer at 130 +degrees Fahrenheit. A more satisfactory method is to place peppers in +a biscuit pan in the oven and heat until the skins blister; or to +steam them until the skin softens, peel, split in half, take out seed, +and dry at 110 to 130 degrees. In drying thick-fleshed peppers like +the pimento, do not increase heat too quickly, but dry slowly and +evenly. + +Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until wilted +and the drying finished in the dryer, or they may be dried entirely in +the sun. + +Peppers often are dried whole. If large they can be strung on thread; +if small the whole plant can be hung up to dry. + +Shell full-grown peas and blanch three to five minutes; cold-dip and +then spread in a single layer on trays to dry. + +When drying the very tender young sugar peas, use the pod also. Wash +and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Blanch six minutes, cold-dip and +remove surplus moisture before drying. When drying beets always select +young, quickly grown, tender beets. Steam twenty to thirty minutes, or +until the skin cracks. Dip in cold water, peel and slice into +one-eighth to one-quarter inch slices. Then dry. + +Carrots having a large, woody core should not be dried. Blanch six +minutes; cold-dip. Carrots are often sliced lengthwise into pieces +about one-eighth inch thick. Parsnips, kohl-rabi, celeriac and salsify +are prepared in the same way as are carrots. + +Onions should be held under water while peeling and slicing to avoid +smarting of the eyes. They should be sliced into one-eighth to +one-quarter inch slices. Blanch five minutes, cold-dip, remove +superfluous moisture and dry. Leeks are handled as are onions. + +Select well-developed heads of cabbage and remove all loose outside +leaves. Split the cabbage, remove the hard, woody core and slice the +remainder of the head with a kraut slicer or cutter or with a large, +sharp knife. Blanch five to ten minutes and cold-dip; dry. + +Spinach and parsley should be carefully washed. Steam, cold-dip and +dry. If the spinach is sliced the drying will be greatly facilitated. +Beet tops, Swiss chard and celery are prepared like spinach. + +Select sound, well-matured Irish potatoes. Wash and boil or steam +until nearly done. Peel and pass through a meat grinder or a potato +ricer. Collect the shred in layers on a tray and dry until brittle. If +toasted slightly in an oven when dry, the flavor is improved somewhat; +or boil or steam until nearly done, peel, cut into quarter-inch +slices, spread on trays, and dry until brittle. Peeling may be +omitted, but the product will be very much inferior in flavor. Irish +potatoes cannot be satisfactorily dried unless they are first cooked; +otherwise they will discolor. + +All root vegetables must be thoroughly cleaned, otherwise an earthy +flavor may cling to them. One decayed root may seriously affect +several pots of vegetable soup. + + +GENERAL SUGGESTIONS + +1. All vegetables should be completely dried in from two to +twenty-four hours. + +2. Materials should be turned or stirred several times to secure a +uniform product. + +3. If heat is used guard against scorching. The door is left open if +an oven is used; the temperature should be about 110 degrees at the +beginning and usually should not exceed 130 degrees. Onions, string +beans and peas will yellow at more than 140 degrees. + +4. A thermometer is essential to successful drying by artificial heat. + +5. It is impossible to give definite lengths of times for the +completion of sun drying, as this varies not only with different +products but with the weather. A sultry, rainy day is the worst for +drying. + +6. Vegetables should be stone dry. + +7. Succulent vegetables and fruits contain from 80 to 95 per cent of +water, and when dried sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per +cent; so it is a good plan to weigh before and after drying as a +check. The product should lose from two-thirds to four-fifths of its +weight. + +8. Work rapidly to prevent souring of vegetables. + +9. Small vegetables, mature beans and peas and small onions may be +dried whole. Larger vegetables should be cut up so as to expose more +surface for drying. + +10. The slicing, cutting and shredding should be done before +blanching, with the exception of corn, which is cut from the cob after +blanching. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING VEGETABLES + + +[A] BLANCHING BY STEAM, TIME ON MINUTES + +[B] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° F. APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + +[C] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] + | | + ASPARAGUS |Wash and cut into pieces| 2 to 4 | 4 to 8 |12 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, | | | | + GREEN | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + STRING | and string | 3 to 10 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, WAX | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + | and string; cut into | | | + | pieces or dry whole | 3 to 10 | 2 to 4 | 5 to 8 + | | | | + BEETS | Leave skin on while |[1]20 to 30| 2½ to 3 |12 to 16 + | steaming | | | + BRUSSELS | | | | + SPROUTS |Divide into small pieces| 6 | 3 to 5 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CABBAGE |Remove all loose outside| | | + | leaves; split cabbage | | | + | and remove woody core; | 5 to 10 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | slice or shred | | | + | | | | + CARROTS | Wash; slice lengthwise | | | + | into pieces 1/8-inch | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | thick | | | + | | | | + CAULIFLOWER|Clean; divide into small| | | + | bunches | 6 | 2 to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERY | Wash carefully and | | | + | remove leaves; slice | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERIAC |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + CORN, SWEET| Blanch on cob. From 12 | | | + |ears of corn you should | | | + | obtain 1 pound dried | 15 | 3 to 4 | 2 days + | corn | | | + | | | | + KOHL-RABI |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 2½ to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LEEKS | Cut into ½-inch strips | 5 | 2½ to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (YOUNG) | Shell | 2 to 5 | 3 to 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (OLD) | Shell | 5 to 10 | 3 to 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + MUSHROOMS | Wash; cut into pieces | 5 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | | | | + OKRA | Dry young pods whole. | | | + | Cut old pods in ¼-inch | 3 | 2 to 3 |12 to 20 + | slices | | | + | | | | + ONIONS | Remove outside papery | | | + | covering; cut off tops | | | + | and roots; slice thin | 5 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + PARSNIPS | Clean; pare; cut into | | | + | ½-inch slices | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + PEAS | Can be dried whole or | | | + | put through grinder | 3 to 5 | 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + PEPPERS |Skin blistered in oven, | | | + |steamed or sun-withered | .. | 3 to 4 | 24 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and rice them | .. | 2½ | 5 to 6 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and slice them | | | + | ¼-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and rice them | .. | 2½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and slice them | | | + | ¼-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + PUMPKINS | | | | + AND SQUASH | Cut into 1/3-inch | | | + | strips; peel; remove | 3 | 3 to 4 | 16 + | seeds | | | + | | | | + SPINACH |Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + SALSIFY | Wash; cut into ½-inch | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | slices | | | + | + SWISS CHARD|Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 18 + | | | | + TOMATOES | Wash; slice after | | | + |steaming to loosen skin | 2 to 3 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + TURNIPS | Pare and slice thin | 5 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + +[Footnote 1: Till skin cracks.] + +In a properly constructed sun drier vegetables will dry in from 3 to +12 hours under normal summer conditions. Products dried in a sun drier +are superior to those dried in the open without any protection. +Products dry more quickly in high altitudes than at sea level. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + +We have learned how to preserve fruit and vegetables by canning and +drying and now we are going to learn another method to preserve foods, +in which salt is used. We use this salt method for vegetables. It is +not adapted to fruits. We may pickle apples, pears and peaches, but we +ferment, brine and dry-salt only vegetables. + +This salt method is not a substitute for drying or canning, but just +an additional method we may employ. Every thrifty housewife of to-day +wants her shelves of canned foods, her boxes of dried foods and her +crocks of salted foods. Each kind has its proper function to perform +in the household. One cannot take the place of the other. + +For women on the farm salting is a salvation. In busy seasons when +canning and drying seem an impossibility, a great many vegetables can +be saved by this method in a very short time. The labor required is +very small, as no cooking is necessary. A good supply of salt is the +one necessity. + +Besides the saving of time, salting saves jars, which are absolutely +necessary in canning. Old containers can be used if they are +thoroughly cleansed. The vegetables can be put in any container, so +long as it holds water and is not made of metal. Metal containers +should not be used. Old kegs, butter and lard tubs if water-tight, +stoneware jars or crocks, chipped preserve jars, glass jars with +missing covers and covered enamel buckets can all be utilized. Avoid +using tubs made of pitch or soft pine unless coated with melted +paraffin, as they impart a flavor to the vegetables. Maple is the +best. + + +THREE METHODS OF SALTING FOOD + +There are three ways of preserving food by salting: First, +fermentation with dry salting; second, fermentation in brine or +brining; and third, salting without fermentation, or dry salting. + +Dry Salting. Fermentation with dry salting consists in packing the +material with a small amount of salt. No water is used, for the salt +will extract the water from the vegetables and this forms a brine. +This is the simplest process of all three and is used mostly for +cabbage. To make sauerkraut proceed as follows: The outside green +leaves of the cabbage should be removed, just as in preparing the head +for boiling. Never use any decayed or bruised leaves. Quarter the +heads and shred the cabbage very finely. There are shredding machines +on the market, but if one is not available use a slaw cutter or a +large sharp knife. + +After the cabbage is shredded pack at once into a clean barrel, keg or +tub, or into an earthenware crock holding four or five gallons. The +smaller containers are recommended for household use. When packing +distribute the salt as uniformly as possible, using one pound of salt +to forty pounds of cabbage. Sprinkle a little salt in the container +and put in a layer of three or four inches of shredded cabbage, then +pack down with a wooden utensil like a potato masher. Repeat with +salt, cabbage and packing until the container is full or the shredded +cabbage is all used. + +Press the cabbage down as tightly as possible and apply a cloth, and +then a glazed plate or a board cover which will go inside the holder. +If using a wooden cover select wood free from pitch, such as basswood. +On top of this cover place stone, bricks or other weights--use flint +or granite; avoid the use of limestone, sandstone or marble. These +weights serve to keep vegetables beneath the surface of the liquid. +The proportion of salt to food when fermenting with dry salt is a +quarter pound of salt to ten pounds of food. Do not use more, for the +product will taste too salty. + +Allow fermentation to proceed for ten days or two weeks, if the room +is warm. In a cellar or other cool place three to five weeks may be +required. Skim off the film which forms when fermentation starts and +repeat this daily if necessary to keep this film from becoming a scum. +When gas bubbles cease to rise when you strike the side of the +container, fermentation is complete. If there is a scum it should be +removed. + +As a final step pour very hot melted paraffin over the brine until it +forms a layer from a quarter to a half-inch thick, to prevent the +formation of the scum which occurs if the weather is warm or the +storage place is not well cooled. The cabbage may be used as soon as +the bubbles cease to rise. If scum forms and remains the cabbage will +spoil. You may can the cabbage as soon as bubbles cease to rise and +fermentation is complete. To can, fill jars, adjust rubbers and partly +seal. Sterilize 120 minutes in hot-water bath, or 60 minutes in +steam-pressure outfit at five to ten pounds pressure. + +The vital factor in preserving the material by this method is the +lactic acid which develops in fermentation. + +If the vegetables are covered with a very strong brine or are packed +with a fairly large amount of salt, lactic acid fermentation and also +the growth of other forms of bacteria and molds are prevented. This +method of preservation is especially applicable to those vegetables +which contain so little sugar that sufficient lactic acid cannot be +formed by bacterial action to insure their preservation. + +In the well-known method of vinegar pickling the acetic acid of the +vinegar acts as a preservative like the lactic acid produced by +fermentation. Sometimes brining precedes pickling in vinegar, and +often the pickling is modified by the addition of sugar and spices, +which add flavor as well as helping to preserve the fruit or +vegetables. In some cases olive oil or some other table oil is added +to the vinegar, as in the making of oil cucumber pickles. + +Besides sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, greens, kale +and dandelions are adapted for fermentation with dry salting. String +beans should be young, tender and not overgrown. Remove the tip ends +and strings; cut or break into pieces about two inches long. Wash the +beet and turnip tops as well as all greens, in order to remove dirt +and grit. Weigh all products that are to be salted. + +For salting, a supply of ordinary fine salt, which can be purchased in +bulk for about two cents a pound, is most satisfactory for general +use. Table salt will do very well, but it is rather expensive if large +quantities of vegetables are to be preserved. The rather coarse +salt--known in the trade as "ground alum salt"--which is used in +freezing ice cream can be used. Rock salt because of its coarseness +and impurities should not be used. + +A weight must be used. The size of the weight depends on the quantity +of material being preserved. For a five-gallon keg a weight of ten +pounds will be sufficient, but if a larger barrel is used a heavier +weight will be needed. The weight should be sufficient to extract the +juices to form a brine, which will cover the top in about twenty-four +hours. If a brine does not form it may be necessary to add more stones +after the material has stood a while. + +There always will be more or less bubbling and foaming of the brine +during the first stages of fermentation. After this ceases a thin film +will appear which will rapidly spread over the whole surface and +quickly develop into a heavy, folded membrane. This scum is a growth +of yeast-like organisms which feed upon the acid formed by +fermentation. If allowed to grow undisturbed it will eventually +destroy all the acid and the fermented material will spoil. To prevent +mold from forming it is necessary to exclude the air from the surface +of the brine. + +Perhaps the best method is to cover the surface--over the board and +round the weight--with very hot, melted paraffin. If the paraffin is +hot enough to make the brine boil when poured in, the paraffin will +form a smooth, even layer before hardening. Upon solidifying, it forms +an air-tight seal. Oils, such as cottonseed oil or the tasteless +liquid petroleum, may also be used for this purpose. As a measure of +safety with crocks, it is advisable to cover the top with a cloth +soaked in melted paraffin. Put the cover in place before the paraffin +hardens. + +After sealing with paraffin the containers should be set where they +will not be disturbed until the contents are to be used. Any attempt +to remove them from one place to another may break the paraffin seal +and necessitate resealing. + +Some vegetables which do not contain sufficient water are better +fermented by covering them with a weak brine. Those which are the most +satisfactory when fermented in this way are cucumbers, string beans, +green tomatoes, beets, beet tops, turnip tops, corn and green peas. +The general directions for this brining are as follows: + +Wash the vegetables, drain off the surplus water and pack them in a +keg, crock, or other utensil until it is nearly full--within about +three inches of the top of the vessel. Prepare a weak brine as +follows: To each gallon of water used add one-half pint of vinegar and +three-fourths of a cup of salt and stir until the salt is entirely +dissolved. The vinegar is used primarily to keep down the growth of +injurious bacteria until the lactic-acid ferment starts, but it also +adds to the flavor. Spices may be added if desired. + +The amount of brine necessary to cover the vegetables will be equal to +about one-half the volume of the material to be fermented. For +example, if a five-gallon keg is to be packed, two and one-half +gallons will be needed. It is best to make up at one time all the +brine needed on one day. A clean tub or barrel can be used for mixing +the brine. Pour the brine over the vegetables and cover. Set the +vessel and its contents away in a moderately warm room to ferment. + +When fermentation ceases, the container should be placed in a cool +cellar or storeroom and the surface of the liquid treated to prevent +mold. Before adding the paraffin or cottonseed oil, any scum or mold +which may have formed on the surface of the liquid should be removed +by skimming. + +These general directions can always be followed with successful +results, but some modifications are desirable for certain vegetables. + +Cucumbers--Dill Style. To pickle cucumbers wash the cucumbers and +pack into a clean, water-tight barrel, keg or crock. On the bottom of +the barrel place a layer of dill weed and a handful of mixed spice. +Add another layer of dill and another handful of spice when the barrel +is half full, and when almost full, add a third layer. If a keg or +crock is used, the amount of dill and spice can be reduced in +proportion to the size of the receptacle. When the container has been +filled to within a few inches of the top, add a layer of covering +material--beet leaves or grape leaves--about an inch thick. If any +spoilage should occur on the surface, this layer will protect the +vegetables beneath. Press down with a clean board weighted with bricks +or stone. + +Make the brine as given in the general rules. Add sufficient brine to +cover the material and allow it to stand twenty-four hours. Then make +air-tight. The time necessary for complete fermentation to occur +depends upon the temperature. In a warm place five days to a week may +suffice; in a cool cellar three to four weeks. + +The dill and spices may be omitted, in which case we then have plain +cucumbers. + +String Beans. Remove the ends and strings from the beans and cut +into pieces about two inches long; pack in the container; cover with +brine and ferment. + +Green Tomatoes. Green tomatoes should be packed whole and prepared +as cucumbers. The dill and spice may be added if desired. + +Beets. Beets must be scrubbed thoroughly and packed whole. If peeled +or sliced before being fermented the beets lose considerable color and +flavor. + +Beet Tops and Turnip Tops. These should be washed thoroughly and +packed into the container without being cut up. + +Peas. Green peas should be shelled and packed in the same way as +string beans. It is advisable to use fairly small containers for peas, +so that the quantity opened up will be used before it has a chance to +spoil. + +Corn. Husk and clean the silk from the corn; wash and place the ears +on end in the jar, packing the jar nearly full. Pour the brine over +the ears; add cover and weights. Fermented corn has a sour taste, +which may not be relished if the corn is eaten alone. For this reason +it will be preferable in most cases to preserve corn by canning, +drying or by salting without fermentation. Fermented corn, however, +may be used in the preparation of some dishes, such as chowders, +omelets, and so forth, where its flavor will be masked to some extent +by the other ingredients. To some people this peculiar acid taste of +fermented corn is not at all objectionable. + +Salting Without Fermentation. In this method the vegetables are +packed with enough salt to prevent fermentation or the growth of +yeasts or molds. The vegetables preserved most satisfactorily by this +method are dandelions, beet tops, turnip tops, spinach, kale, chard, +cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, green peas and corn. The following +directions should be followed: + +The vegetables should be washed, drained and weighed. The amount of +salt needed will be a quarter of the weight of the vegetables. Kegs or +crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a layer of vegetables about +an inch thick on the bottom of the container. Cover this with salt. +Continue making alternate layers of vegetables and salt until the +container is almost filled. The salt should be evenly distributed so +that it will not be necessary to use more salt than the quantity +required in proportion to the weights of the vegetables that are used. + +Cover the surface with a cloth, and a board of glazed plate. Place a +weight on these and set aside in a cool place. If sufficient liquor to +cover the vegetables has not been extracted pour in enough strong +brine--one pound of salt to two quarts of water--to cover the surface +round the corner. + +The top layer of vegetables should be kept under the brine to prevent +molding. There will be some bubbling at first. As soon as this stops, +set the container where it will not be disturbed until ready for use. +Seal by pouring very hot paraffin over the surface. + +String beans should be cut in two-inch pieces. Peas should be shelled. +Cabbage should be shredded in the same way as for sauerkraut. Corn, +however, requires somewhat different treatment, and the directions for +salting it are as follows: + +Salted Corn. Husk the ears of corn and remove the silk. Cook in +boiling water for about ten minutes to set the milk. Cut off the corn +from the cob with a sharp knife. Weigh the corn and pack in layers +with a quarter its weight of fine salt, as described above. + +Some experts insist on blanching and cold-dipping all vegetables for +dry-salting without fermentation. They say that, though it is not +necessary, it makes the tissues softer and consequently they are more +easily penetrated by the salt. Furthermore, when preparing these +products for the table the salt soaks out more readily and the +products cook much more quickly if they have been blanched. So where +there is time it seems advisable to blanch for five minutes for +dry-salting. + +If properly prepared and stored, fermented, brined and dry-salted +products will keep for a long time. It is absolutely necessary to +prevent mold from growing on the surface of the brine of fermented +vegetables, by the addition of paraffin or in some other way. +Protection of the surface of dry-salted vegetables is desirable, but +not necessary if the containers are covered to prevent the evaporation +of the brine. Most trouble with the fermented or salted products may +be traced to carelessness in protecting the surface of the brine. + + +POINTS TO REMEMBER + +These are the special things to remember about fermentation, brining +and dry-salting: + +1. For fermentation, such as in making sauerkraut, use a quarter pound +of salt to ten pounds of food material. For every 100 pounds of food +add two and a half pounds of salt. + +2. For brining use three-quarters of a cupful of salt and one cupful +of vinegar to each gallon of water. + +3. For dry-salting use one pound of salt to four pounds of food. + +4. Do not use vinegar, pickle or pork barrels as containers for salted +foods unless they are very thoroughly scalded. + +5. Thoroughly scald all containers, covers, weights and cloths before +using. + +6. If using glass jars put a cork inside to press the food down. If +white vaseline is rubbed on the rubber rings the solution will not get +through rubber and be lost. + +7. After adding salt or brine for fermented foods, cover the food +material with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth six inches larger in +diameter than the diameter of the container. Tuck this in round the +top of the food, cover with weight and adjust lid of container. + +8. During fermentation keep the cover on loosely until all bubbles +cease. Test by slightly knocking container to see if any bubbles +appear on the surface. + +9. When you have made this test and discovered that the bubbling has +ceased, then it is time to protect the food from all organisms which +destroy lactic acid. + +10. To protect the food cover with hot melted paraffin or liquid oil. + +11. If evaporation takes place, add water or brine to make up the +original amount of water. + +12. When dry sealing is used let the product stand twenty-four to +thirty-six hours, then add strong brine to fill the containers. The +water from the vegetables usually only half fills the containers. + +TABLE FOR PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY SALT + + + METHODS |VEGETABLES ADAPTED| AMOUNT OF SALT | OTHER + | TO METHOD | | INGREDIENTS + | | | NEEDED + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + I. Dry |Cabbage, which is |¼-lb. salt to 10 | No other. + salting with |converted by this | lbs. food or 2½ | + fermentation.| method into |lbs. salt to 100 | + |sauerkraut, string| lbs. food. | + |beans, beet tops, | | + | turnip tops, | | + | greens, kale and | | + | dandelions. | | + | | | + II. |Cucumbers, string | ¾-cup salt, 1 |Dill and spices + Fermentation | beans, green | gallon water, 1 |can be added. 1 + with brine. | tomatoes, beets, | cup vinegar for |lb. dry dill or + | beet tops, corn |brine. Amount of | 2 lbs. green + | and green peas. |brine required is| dill and 1 oz. + | |equal to ½ volume| spices for a + | | of food. |4-gallon crock. + | | | + III. Dry | Dandelions, beet | 25 lbs. salt to | Blanch and + salting |tops, turnip tops,|100 lbs. of food.| cold-dip + without | spinach, kale, |Salt should be ¼ | vegetables for + fermentation.| chard, cabbage, | weight of | five minutes + | cauliflower, | vegetable. | before dry + | string beans, | | salting. + | green peas, and | | + | corn. | | + | | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + +Many farmers seem to have more trouble with the curing of meats than +with the slaughtering. This part of the work is indeed very important +as it determines whether one will have good tasting cured meat or meat +that is too salty or possibly that is far removed from the original +taste of the raw product. + +It is worth every farmer or farmerette's attention to spend some time +on this problem as it pays so well in the resulting, good tasting +meat. Why not have a superior grade of home-cured meat as easily as a +poor grade? Work carefully and accurately done will produce good +results while work slovenly or carelessly done can produce nothing but +poor results. To cure meat so that it is not only delicious but has +good keeping qualities is an art and accomplishment worth striving +for. A pride in this work is just as fine and worth while as the +housewife's pride in her culinary skill or the pride of any other +professional in his or her line of work. To-day we are thinking of +food and its problems as never before and it behooves us all to put +more time, thought, care and skill on all things that pertain to +foods. And as meat is such an essential item in our diet, meat +problems should receive their due attention. + +All meat that is to be cured should always be thoroughly cooled and +cut into the desired convenient sizes before it is put into the brine +or packed in dry salt. + +The pieces most commonly used for curing are the ham, shoulder and +bacon pieces from pork. From beef we use the cheaper, tougher cuts +such as the plate, shoulder and chuck ribs. Mutton is seldom cured and +preserved. + +The ham should be cut off at the hock joint, the spare ribs taken out +of the bacon, and the ragged edges trimmed off smooth. If ragged edges +or scraggy ends are left these portions will become too dry in the +curing and will practically be wasted. + +After all the animal heat is removed from the meat and it is properly +cut it is then ready for the curing. If salt is put on the meat before +the animal heat is all removed, it will have a tendency to shrink the +muscles and form a coating on the outside which will not allow the +generating gases to escape. Meat should never be in a frozen condition +when the salt is added as the frost will prevent the proper +penetration of the brine and uneven curing will be the result. + + +METHODS OF CURING MEAT + +The two most common methods of curing meat are first the brine or +sugar cure process and second the dry-curing process. For general farm +use the brine cured process is the better. It requires less time, less +effort and not such an exacting place for the work. On most farms it +is impossible to secure a desirable place in which to do the +dry-curing as the meat is exposed to rats, cats, flies and other +insects. The dry-curing requires considerable time to rub and salt the +meat at different times while the only attention that is necessary for +brine-curing is to properly prepare and pack the meat in the vessel +and prepare the brine for it. + + +UTENSILS FOR CURING + +If possible use a round container for the curing. It is easier to put +the meat in tightly, and the space can be used to better advantage. A +hardwood barrel of some kind is excellent. Sirup, molasses or lard +barrels which have been thoroughly cleaned are very satisfactory. If +you use a vinegar or an oil barrel it should be well burned on the +inside before using. Stone crocks or jars are sometimes used but they +are expensive and cumbersome to handle besides the constant danger of +loss of brine from breakage. + + +PRESERVATIVES + +For curing the meat the farmer usually uses salt, salt peter, white or +brown sugar or molasses. These are the necessary preservatives. The +others such as boracic acid, borax and soda are often used for +sweetening the brine and to keep it from spoiling but are not +absolutely essential. The salt extracts moisture and acts as a +preservative. The sugar or molasses imparts a nice flavor and has a +tendency to keep the muscle tissue soft in contrast to the salt, which +has a tendency to make it hard and dry. So the salt and sugar have two +distinct functions to perform, the one to harden and preserve, the +other to soften and sweeten. If you have a favorite recipe that has +proved satisfactory and you want to use sorghum or molasses instead of +sugar add one pound more of the molasses. If you have been accustomed +to using 2 pounds of sugar then use 3 pounds of the other sweetening. + +Salt peter is not absolutely necessary as far as the preserving is +concerned but it helps to hold the red color of the lean meat. If salt +peter is not used the lean meat will be gray in color. It may possibly +be a little tenderer if the salt peter is not used as the salt peter +tends to harden the meat. Chili salt peter can be substituted in place +of salt peter, if only four-fifths as much is used. + + +THE SUGAR BRINE CURE + +All formulas for the sugar brine cure are practically the same varying +only a little in the proportions of sugar, salt and salt peter. If you +have a formula that you have tried for years and have found it to be +satisfactory there is no reason you should attempt a new one. But for +those who want to try a different formula or recipe I will give you +this reliable one that is widely used and indorsed by several +agricultural colleges. + +The container should be scalded thoroughly. Sprinkle a layer of salt +over the bottom and over each layer of meat as it is packed in, skin +down. When full, cover meat with boards and weight down with a stone +so that all will be below the brine, which is made as follows: + +Weigh out for each 100 pounds of meat, 8 pounds of salt, 2 pounds of +sugar (preferably brown) or 3 pounds of molasses, and 2 ounces of salt +peter. Dissolve all in 4 gallons of water. This should be boiled, and +when thoroughly cooled, cover the meat. Seven days after brine is put +on, meat should be repacked in another barrel in reverse order. The +pieces that were on top should be placed on the bottom. The brine is +poured over as before. This is repeated on the fourteenth and +twenty-first days, thus giving an even cure to all pieces. Bacon +should remain in the brine from four to six weeks, and hams six to +eight weeks, depending on the size of the pieces. When cured, each +piece should be scrubbed with tepid water and hung to drain several +days before smoking; no two pieces should come in contact. For all +curing always use dairy salt and _not table_ salt, as the latter +contains starch to keep it dry and this starch may cause the meat to +spoil. If you carefully follow these directions you will have +delicious sugar-cured hams and bacon. + + +CORNED BEEF + +It is desirable to have an ample supply of corned beef on hand. For +this any part of the beef may be used but the parts usually selected +are the plate, rump, cross-ribs and brisket, which are the tougher +cuts of the meat. The brisket and plate are especially good because of +the character of the fat, which is somewhat like a tissue. Cut all +around the meat to about the same thickness, so that it will make an +even layer in the barrel. It is best to remove the bone, although this +is not necessary. Be sure to start the pickling or curing while the +meat is perfectly fresh, but well chilled. Do not wait like some +farmers do until they think the meat is beginning to spoil and then +salt it down just to save it. Allow ten pounds of dairy salt to each +100 pounds of meat. Sprinkle a layer of the salt in the bottom of the +crock, barrel, or whatever container is used. Have the salt about +one-fourth of an inch in depth. After the layer is in the bottom of +the container put the cuts of meat in as closely as possible, making +the layer five or six inches in thickness, then put on another layer +of salt, following that with another layer of meat. Repeat until the +meat and salt have all been packed in the barrel, care being taken to +reserve salt enough for a good layer on the top. Cover the meat with a +board and weight down with a stone and _not_ an _iron_ weight. Do not +allow any meat to project from the salt or mold will start and the +brine will spoil in a short time. Let the meat stand over-night. + +Prepare a brine by boiling 7 pounds salt, 3 pounds brown sugar or 6 +pounds molasses, 2 ounces baking soda, 2 ounces salt peter and 4 +gallons water for every 100 pounds of meat. This quantity of brine +should be sufficient to cover that amount. + +Remove any scum that rises to the surface and filter the hot brine +through muslin. Set the brine aside, best over-night, to become +perfectly cold before using. In the morning tip the container in which +the meat is packed so that all liquor which has separated from the +meat over night may drain off. Cover the meat with the cold brine. Put +the container in a cool place. The curing will be more satisfactory if +the meat is left at a temperature of about 38 degrees F. Never let the +temperature go above 50 degrees F. and there is some risk with even a +temperature of 40 degrees F. if it is continuous. The sugar or +molasses in the brine has a tendency to ferment in a warm place. + +After about five days the meat should be overhauled and repacked, +putting the pieces which were previously on the bottom on top. Pour +back the same brine, and five days later repeat the overhauling. This +may seem like some trouble and possibly look like a useless waste of +time but it is well worth while as it insures a more rapid and uniform +curing of the meat. + +When unpacking the meat watch the brine to see that it is not ropy or +moldy. If you find either condition existing remove the meat and rinse +each piece with cold water and after scalding the container pack the +meat as at first with a little salt. Scald and skim the brine and +after it is cold pour it on the meat as before. You can use corned +beef if necessary after a week in the cure, but it is not thoroughly +cured until it has been from 20 to 30 days in the brine. If kept for +sixty days it will be salty enough to need freshening before cooking. + +If the meat has been corned during the winter, and is to be kept until +summer, watch the brine closely during the spring as it is more likely +to spoil then than at any other time. + + +PLAIN SALT PORK + +Rub each piece of meat with dairy salt, and pack closely in a +container. Let stand over-night. The next day weigh out ten pounds of +salt and two ounces of salt peter for each 100 pounds of meat, and +dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. Pour this brine, when cold, +over the meat, cover, and weight the meat down to keep it under the +brine. The pork should be kept in the brine until used. + + +SMOKING CURED MEATS + +Of course many farmers never attempt to smoke their cured meats but +use them directly from the brine but if possible it is more +satisfactory to smoke them before using for several reasons. First, +the process of smoking helps to preserve the meat. The creosote formed +by the combustion of the wood closes the pores of the meat to a great +extent thus excluding the air and helping it to keep and at the same +time makes the meat objectionable to insects. In the second place, +pickled or cured meats taste better and are more palatable if smoked. +Of course the smoking must be properly done and the right kind of fuel +must be used. + +The Smokehouse and the Smoke. It is not necessary to have a regular +smokehouse--although it is a delightful addition to any farm. Here +again a community meat ring is of great advantage. One smokehouse will +answer for many families. This is the ideal arrangement and it can +easily be managed if you are progressive and anxious enough to supply +your family with delicious meat the year around saving time and money. + +If, however, you have to do your own smoking and smoke only a small +quantity at a time a barrel or box will answer. Overheating of the +meat must be guarded against. + +Green hickory or any of the hardwoods or maple should be used for the +smoking. Pine or any other resinous woods should not be used as they +give a disagreeable flavor to the meat. If it is impossible to get +hardwood use corncobs rather than soft wood. The corncobs will leave a +dirty deposit on the meat, which is carbon. It is not objectionable +only from the standpoint of "looks." The meat which you are going to +smoke should be removed from the brine the day before the smoking. A +half hour soaking in cold water prevents a crust of salt from forming +on the outside. Do not hang the meat so that any two pieces touch as +this would prevent uniform smoking. + +Always start with a slow fire so as to warm the meat up gradually. +Thirty-six to forty-eight hours of heat as near 120 degrees F. as +possible will be sufficient under most circumstances. + +How to Store Smoked Meats. A dry, cool cellar or attic where there +is good circulation is a good place for storage. If the meat is to be +used soon the meat can hang without coverings but for long keeping you +will have to wrap it when cold in waxed paper and then in burlap, +muslin or canvas bags and then hang it, after it is tied very tightly +to prevent insects from getting in, in a room with a cool uniform +temperature. + +Some farmers get satisfactory results by wrapping the meats in strong +bags and then burying them in oat bins. + + +SAUSAGE + +Frequently when animals are butchered on the farm there are often +wholesome portions of the carcass that are not used. All trimmings, +cheeks, liver, tongue, breast and other pieces can be made into +bologna, headcheese or some other form of sausage. Sausage making is +an art worth acquiring. There is always a good demand for fresh and +smoked country sausage, so if you wish to sell some you will have no +trouble in finding a market for your product if it is a good one. + +To make sausage you should have a meat grinder, which is an absolute +essential on every farm. If you do not have one already then buy a No. +22 or No. 32. + +In addition to the grinder you will need a stuffer attachment which +costs very little. A knife, cord, string, a clean tube and casings or +muslin bags will complete your equipment. The muslin bags can be of +any size but the easiest to handle are 12 inches long and 2 inches in +diameter. If the sausage is stuffed into these bags they must be +paraffined for home use. If you do not want to bother with casings or +bags put the sausage in stone crocks or tin pans with a layer of lard +or paraffin on top. + +The best sausage is made by using 3 parts of lean meat to one of fat. +When using the grinder, distribute the lean and fat meat as uniformly +as possible. + +You are not necessarily limited to pork sausage, for there are many +other delicious varieties you can make. They vary in the different +kinds of meat used and in the different seasonings and spices. + +Breakfast sausage has bread added to it; frankfurters are smoked pork +sausage in casings; liver sausage has pork and beef or veal and bread +in it; and blood sausage, as its name suggests, has blood (preferably +from a hog) added to it. Then there is tomato sausage which is made of +pulp from fresh tomatoes, pork sausage and crackers. Summer sausage is +made in the winter and kept for use during the summer. After being +dried and cured it will keep for months. Brain sausage is delicious. +To make it calves' brains are mixed with lean pork. Cambridge sausage +has rice added to it. + +Headcheese is usually made from the hog's head but odds and ends also +can be used not only from pork but from beef and veal. + +Scrapple usually means the head and feet of hogs but it can be made +from any hog meat. It is a good food as it uses cornmeal. It makes a +change from fried mush and most men working on a farm relish it. + +Sausage can be made from mutton mixed with pork in much the same way +as beef is used for similar purposes. A general formula would be 2 +parts of mutton to 3 parts pork with seasonings. + +With a plentiful supply of good home-cured and home-smoked meats, +together with several varieties of sausages, you can feel you are well +equipped to feed your family with its share of meat. Everything will +have been utilized, nothing will have been wasted. You produced your +own meat, you slaughtered and cured and smoked it and put all +trimmings and other "left-overs" into appetizing food for your family +and you have saved money. You have utilized things at hand and +required no transportation facilities. And best of all, you have the +very finest in the land for your family and that gives one a perfectly +justifiable pride in the work accomplished. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + +As one-half of the yearly egg crop is produced in March, April, May +and June consumers would do well to store enough at that time to use +when production is light. Fifty dozen eggs should be stored for a +family of five to use during the months of October, November, December +and January, at which time the market price of eggs is at the highest. + +When canning them _the eggs must be fresh_, preferably not more than +two or three days old. This is the reason why it is much more +satisfactory to put away eggs produced in one's own chicken yard or +one's neighbor's. + +Infertile eggs are best if they can be obtained--so, after the +hatching exclude the roosters from the flock and kill them for table +use as needed. + +_The shells must be clean._ Washing an egg with a soiled shell lessens +its keeping quality. The protective gelatinous covering over the shell +is removed by water and when this is gone the egg spoils more rapidly. +Use the soiled eggs for immediate use and the clean ones for storage. + +_The shells also must be free from even the tiniest crack._ One +cracked egg will spoil a large number of sound eggs when packed in +water glass. + +Earthenware crocks are good containers. _The crocks must be clean and +sound._ Scald them and let them cool completely before use. A crock +holding six gallons will accommodate eighteen dozen eggs and about +twenty-two pints of solution. Too large crocks are not desirable, +since they increase the liability of breaking some of the eggs, and +spoiling the entire batch. + +It must be remembered that the eggs on the bottom crack first and that +those in the bottom of the crock are the last to be removed for use. +Eggs can be put up in smaller crocks and the eggs put in the crock +first should be used first in the household. + + +METHOD OF STORING + +There are many satisfactory methods of storing eggs. The commercial +method is that of cold storage and if it were not for this method +winter eggs would be beyond the average purse. + +The fact that eggs have been held in cold storage does not necessarily +mean that they are of low quality. Carefully handled cold-storage eggs +often are of better quality than fresh local eggs that have been +improperly cared for. + +In the home they may be packed by several methods: Salt, oats or bran; +covering them with vaseline, butter, lard, paraffin or prepared +ointments; immersion in brine, salicylic acid, water glass (sodium +silicate) or limewater. + +Any of these methods will keep the eggs for short periods if stored in +a cool place. The salt, oats and bran are very satisfactory. The +ointments also are satisfactory. The water glass and limewater will +keep eggs without loss for a year. However, it is not wise to put down +more eggs than is necessary to tide over the period of high price. + + +WATER GLASS METHOD + +"Water glass" is known to the chemist as sodium silicate. It can be +purchased by the quart from druggists or poultry supply men. It is a +pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It is diluted in the proportion +of one part of silicate to nine parts of distilled water, rain water, +or other water. _In any case, the water should be boiled and then +allowed to cool._ Half fill the vessel with this solution and place +the eggs in it, being careful not to crack them. The eggs can be added +a few at a time until the container is filled. Be sure to keep about +two inches of water glass above the eggs. Cover the crock to prevent +evaporation and place it in the coolest place available from which the +crock will not have to be moved. Wax paper covered over and tied +around the top of the crock can be used. Inspect the crock from time +to time and replace any water that has evaporated with cool boiled +water. + + +LIMEWATER METHOD + +Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is slightly +less expensive than water glass. A solution is made by placing two or +three pounds of unslaked lime in five gallons of water, which has been +boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the mixture to stand until +the lime settles and the liquid is clear. The eggs should be placed in +a clean earthenware jar or other suitable vessel and covered to a +depth of two inches with the liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse +in clean, cold water and use immediately. + +If using the limewater method add a little of the lime sediment to +insure a constantly saturated solution. If a thin white crust appears +on the limewater solution it is due to the formation of calcium +carbonate coming in contact with the air and consequently does no +harm. + + +CANDLING EGGS AT HOME + +If you purchase the eggs that are to be stored it is safer to candle +them. Examining eggs to determine their quality is called "candling." +Every one knows that some eggs are better than others, but the ease +with which the good ones can be picked out is not generally +understood. The better the quality of eggs, the surer the housewife +can be that they will keep satisfactorily. + + +HOMEMADE CANDLER + +The equipment for candling usually consists of either a wooden, a +metal, or a cardboard box and a kerosene lamp or an electric light. A +very inexpensive egg candler for home use can be made from a large +shoe-box or similar cardboard box. Remove the ends of the box, and cut +a hole about the size of a half-dollar in one side. Slip the box over +the lamp or electric bulb, darken the room, hold the egg, with the +large end up, before the opening in the box and its quality can easily +be judged. + + +SIGNS OF A GOOD EGG + +When held before the opening of the candle, good eggs will look clear +and firm. The air cell (the white spot at the large end of the eggs) +should be small, not larger than a dime, and the yolk may be dimly +seen in the center of the egg. A large air cell and a dark, freely +moving yolk indicate that the egg is stale. + +If the shell contents appear black or very dark, the egg is +absolutely unfit for food. If you are in doubt about the quality of +any eggs you are candling break a few of them into a dish and examine +them. This is an excellent way to learn to know how good and bad eggs +look when they are being candled. + +Discard all eggs that have shrunken, loose contents, a watery +appearance, cracked and thin shells. Eggs of this description will not +keep and are apt to spoil the eggs close around them. Any egg that +floats in the solution should be discarded. + +When packing eggs whether in salt, oats, or in solution place them +with small end down. When packing them in salt, oats, etc., do not +allow any two eggs to touch. + + +PACKING THE EGGS + +One gallon of water glass as purchased will make enough preservative +to preserve from 75 to 100 dozen eggs. + +Three gallons of either water glass solution or limewater solution +will preserve from 200 to 240 dozen eggs according to the size of the +eggs and the shape of the container. + +The cost of preserving eggs by the water glass method is about one +cent per dozen eggs, not considering the cost of the container. The +lime water method is still cheaper. + +The following gives the sizes of jars with approximate capacity for +eggs and the amount of water glass solution required to cover the +eggs: + +1 gallon jar--40 eggs, 3½ pints of solution or 1¾ qt. + +2 gallon jar--80 eggs, 8 pints of solution or 2 quarts. + +3 gallon jar--120 eggs, 11 pints of solution or 5½ quarts. + +4 gallon jar--160 eggs, 14½ pints of solution or 7¼ quarts. + +5 gallon jar--200 eggs, 18 pints of solution or 9 quarts. + +6 gallon jar--216 eggs, 22 pints of solution or 11 quarts. + +10 gallon jar--400 eggs, 36 pints of solution or 18 quarts. + + +HOW TO USE PRESERVED EGGS + +When the eggs are to be used, remove them as desired, rinse in clean, +cold water, and use immediately. + +Eggs preserved in water glass can be used for soft boiling or poaching +up to November. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole in the +large end of the shell with a needle to keep them from cracking, as +the preservative seals the pores of the shell and prevents the escape +of gases, which is possible in the strictly fresh egg. + +They are satisfactory for frying until about December. From that time +until the end of the usual storage period--that is until March--they +can be used for omelettes, scrambled eggs, custards, cakes and general +cookery. As the eggs age, the white becomes thinner and is harder to +beat. The yolk membrane becomes more delicate and it is +correspondingly difficult to separate the whites from the yolks. +Sometimes the white of the egg is tinged pink after very long keeping +in water glass. This is due, probably, to a little iron which is in +the sodium silicate, but which apparently does not injure the eggs for +food purposes. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + +Towards the end of the canning season most housewives have used every +available glass jar and tin can and hesitate about purchasing a new +supply. They have dried and brined many products and yet they feel, +and rightly so, that they would like still more vegetables for winter +use. There still remains another method that they may employ to +provide themselves with a plentiful supply of vegetables and these +vegetables can be in the fresh state too. Neither canned, dried, +pickled or salted but fresh. + +Canning, drying, pickling and salting are essential and necessary but +they can not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in their +natural state is the easiest and simplest form of food preservation. +Of course, you must take proper precautions against freezing and +decay. If you do this you can have an abundant supply of many kinds of +fresh vegetables all winter, where climatic and living conditions will +permit. Storage costs but little money and little effort and yet it is +very satisfactory. + +There are many vegetables that can be stored to good advantage. They +are: Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Beans, Celery, Carrots, Chicory or +Endive, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Lima Beans, Onions, Sweet +Potatoes, Squash (Winter), Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, Tomatoes, +Turnips. + +To get good results in any kind of storage, you must observe four +things: + + 1. Proper ventilation. + 2. Proper regulation of temperature. + 3. Sufficient moisture. + 4. Good condition of vegetables when stored. + +There are six different ways to store vegetables. They are: cellar +storage, pit storage, outdoor cellar or cave storage, attic storage, +sand boxes and pantry storage. + + +CELLAR STORAGE + +We will first of all consider cellar or basement storage. One of the +most convenient places for the storage of vegetables is a cool, +well-ventilated and reasonably dry cellar underneath the house. This +cellar must have windows or some method of ventilation, must not be +too warm and not so cold that food will freeze. If there is proper +ventilation there can be some dampness without injury to the +vegetables. If your cellar or basement floods easily or has water +standing in it anywhere it should not be used for vegetable storage. + +If there is a furnace in the cellar or basement a small room as far as +possible from the heating plant should be partitioned off. Do not +build a room in the middle of the cellar, for two sides of the room +should consist of outside walls. + +If possible have two outside windows for proper regulation of the +temperature and for good ventilation. If you cannot have two windows +have one. + +A very good arrangement for constant circulation of air consists in +having a stove-pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of the +window to admit cold air. One of the upper panes of the window can be +removed to allow for the escape of warm air. That is, of course, if +the window is made of nine or twelve small panes of squares of glass. +In severely cold weather this upper pane can be replaced or the +opening stuffed up in some way. + +If you do not have an old stove-pipe you can make a wooden flue of old +boards or old discarded boxes. + +Most cellars and basements are now made with concrete floors. The +ideal floor for storage purposes is an earth floor. However, we can +put two or three inches of sand on our concrete floors and get good +results. Sprinkle the sand with water from time to time. + +Put the vegetables that are to be stored in boxes, baskets, barrels or +crates. Use containers that hold only two or three bushels apiece. If +larger boxes or barrels are used there is always danger of heating and +decay. Of course, proper precautions should be taken against mice. + +An excellent way to prevent wilting of crops and shrinkage is to put +moist leaves, oak or maple, in the containers with the vegetables. +Moist sand is sometimes used but it is much heavier to handle than the +leaves. It is no difficult matter to rake the lawn when you are ready +to store the vegetables. + +The vegetables that are adapted for cellar storage are beets, cabbage, +carrots, celery, parsnips, potatoes, salsify and turnips. + + +PIT STORAGE + +There are two kinds of pits that may be used for storage. Those that +are not frost-proof and those which are frost-proof. + +Some vegetables are not injured by being held in a frozen condition +during the winter months. Cabbage is not injured by moderate frost. +Cabbage and parsnips will stand freezing and a little thawing, so they +can be put in pits or better still, boxes or barrels set into the +ground may be used. Make the pit mound shaped. If the earth is mounded +around the box, barrel or pit, surface water cannot run in. + +If using this kind of storage do not store the products until both the +ground and the products are frozen solid. The idea is to keep the +vegetables frozen or to have very few freezings and thawings, and +those few should be gradual. + +After the pit has been made or the box or barrel has been set into the +ground and filled with vegetables, it should be covered first with a +piece of burlap or carpet, then with a mouse-proof board cover and +finally with straw or similar material. When taken from the pit, the +vegetables can be thawed out over night in cold water, after which +they can be kept in the cellar for a short length of time. + +The pits for keeping vegetables free from frost must be carefully and +thoughtfully made, but they are cheap and are very useful and +practical when caves or cellars are not convenient. + +The frost-proof pit for storing vegetables should always be placed in +as well-drained a place as possible. A shallow excavation should be +made from one to two feet deep, four feet wide and as long as +desired. Line the pit with straw, hay or leaves, then place the +vegetables in a conical pile on the straw. Cover the vegetables with +six inches of the material used in making the lining. This is covered +with three or four inches of earth. The straw is allowed to extend up +through the earth at the top of the pile, thus assuring ventilation. + +When it becomes colder add more covering to the pit by another layer +of straw and a layer of earth. In very cold climates a layer of manure +or corn stalks will afford protection against frost. + +It is well to make several small pits rather than one larger one for +the reason that when a pit has once been opened it is difficult to +protect the remaining vegetables from frost. + +It is advisable to store several varieties of vegetables in one pit so +that when each pit is opened you have a variety of vegetables. If you +follow this plan separate the various crops by using straw or leaves. + +Pits are entered by chopping a hole through the frozen earth at one +end, large enough to reach into or crawl into. After the vegetables +have been obtained keep the hole stuffed and covered most carefully +and deeply with old sacks and straw. + +If the smaller pits are used, a decidedly better arrangement, take out +all the vegetables in the pit and those that are not needed for +immediate consumption can be placed in the cellar storage room, or +other cool place, until needed. Do not use those pits if you live +where winter rains are abundant as the pits will become water soaked +and the vegetables will suffer more or less decay. + + +OUTDOOR CELLAR STORAGE + +Outdoor cellars or caves may be cheaply built for more or less +temporary use or they may be very expensively built of concrete, +brick, or clay blocks. Of course, the latter are permanent storing +places and offer perfect storage for potatoes, carrots, cabbages, +parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify. + +The objectionable features of indoor cellar storage is that such +storage does not furnish ideal conditions for keeping the vegetables +fresh for any great length of time. + +The objectionable feature to the pit storage is the inaccessibility to +these pits during severe weather. + +The outdoor cellar or cave overcomes both these objections. The +outdoor cellar or cave is an underground structure, preferably built +in a hillside and fully covered with earth except at one end only +where the entrance is located. If there are doors at both ends it is +almost impossible to prevent freezing in very cold weather. The cave +door should fit perfectly and there should be a hatchway or door over +the steps leading down to the cave door. + +A very satisfactory inexpensive cellar can be made by digging an +excavation about 5 ft. deep and in this erecting a frame by setting +posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform +height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place rafters. +Board up completely with the exception of the entrance. Cover the +whole with dirt or sod and in cold climates add a layer of straw or +fodder. + +A ventilation must be provided in the roof at the back end. A sewer +tile with the bell end up makes a very good flue. A dirt floor is +satisfactory as it contains moisture. If there is any seepage use a +drain tile to carry it off. + +The more pretentious permanent cellars are provided with air spaces to +furnish insulation; are provided with large ventilation shafts through +the roof and cold air intakes under the floor. Thorough drainage is +obtained by placing a line of tile around the outside wall and also by +having the air intake serve as a drain for surplus water that might +get into the cave. The floor is cement or concrete. Such a cave is +expensive but is a permanent structure and a good addition to any farm +or estate. If properly made it is possible to maintain a temperature +of 34 to 38 degrees without much fluctuation during the winter months. +This kind of storage is not only adapted for vegetables but apples as +well. It is better adapted to the Northern, Eastern and Western States +than to the Southern States, where it is likely to be warm at the time +the vegetables are ready for storage. When making the cave, have it as +near as possible to the kitchen door. Sometimes caves are made so that +they can be entered from the house, cellar or porch. + + +ATTIC STORAGE + +Some vegetables such as onions, squashes, sweet potatoes and pumpkins +can be stored in the attic in crates which allow free circulation of +air. They must be absolutely free from bruises and must be well +ripened and cured. To cure the vegetables expose them to the air for a +few days in the shade. Remove the tops of onions before storing. The +attic is much better for storing onions than the basement. Squashes +are susceptible to cold and moisture, so are suitable for the attic. + +Be very careful in handling the squashes to prevent breaking the +stems off. Watch pumpkins and squash carefully and at the first sign +of decay, use immediately or can. + + +SAND BOX STORAGE + +Sand boxes in cellars, pits or caves are desirable for beets, turnips, +kohl-rabi, carrots, winter radishes and rutabagas. The sand keeps them +cold and prevents evaporation. Kohl-rabi should be tender when stored. + + +PANTRY STORAGE + +Where there is no attic or where it is inconveniently reached, the +products that are adapted to a very dry place can be stored on the +pantry shelves or in a dry cellar near the furnace. They are onions, +squashes, pumpkins and sweet potatoes. + +The keeping qualities of all these vegetables, no matter what storage +is used, depends chiefly upon their condition when placed in storage. +All products to be stored must be mature, but not overgrown. Root +crops should be dry while the ground is in good working condition. All +vegetables should be allowed to become surface dry before placing them +in storage. + +White or Irish potatoes, especially, should not be exposed to bright +sunlight any length of time. Only vegetables free from disease or +injury should be stored. Any that are damaged can be used immediately, +or can be canned or dried. + +Further particulars for the storing of fresh vegetables are given in +the following tables. + +TABLE FOR VEGETABLE STORAGE + +VEGETABLES + |HOW BEST STORED + | |PREPARATION FOR STORAGE + | | |AMOUNT FOR FAMILY OF TWO + | | | |REMARKS + | | | | +Irish Potatoes + |Must be kept cool with a slight degrees of moisture. Use + |either cellar or cave methods. No potato should be more than + |four ft. from air if stored in barrels, boxes, crates or + |bins. + | |Potatoes must be dug before the ground is crusted with + | |frost. Frosted potatoes will spoil, one after another. + | |Impossible to sort out frosted potatoes. + | | |10 to 15 bus. + | | | |Remember Irish potatoes are ruined by + | | | |freezing. Potatoes should be kept absolutely + | | | |dark to prevent greening by light. Never buy + | | | |potatoes in sacks that show wet places due to + | | | |a frosted potato. + | | | | +Sweet Potatoes + |Require warmth and dryness. In crates or on shelves in warm + |dry room. Can be spread on the floor in the room above the + |kitchen where they will have plenty of heat, especially for + |the first 2 or 3 weeks after they are dug. + | |When the sweet potatoes are dug they should be allowed + | |to lie in the sun and wind for 3 or 4 hours so as to + | |become perfectly dry. They must be well ripened and free + | |from bruises. Can be kept on shelves in a very dry place + | |and they need not be kept specially cold. Sweet potatoes + | |keep best when they are showing just a little + | |inclination to sprout. However, if they start growing + | |the quality is greatly injured. + | | |2 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you are in doubt as to whether the sweet + | | | |potatoes are matured enough for storage, cut + | | | |or break one end and expose it to the air for + | | | |a few minutes. If the surface of the cut or + | | | |break dries, the potato is mature. But if + | | | |moisture remains on the surface, it is not + | | | |fully ripened. In places where there are early + | | | |frosts, sweet potatoes should be dug about the + | | | |time the first frost is expected, without + | | | |considering maturity. + | | | | +Carrots + |Are best stored in sand in cellars, caves or pits; or in + |tightly covered boxes or crocks. Must be kept cold and + |evaporation must be prevented, for otherwise they become + |wilted. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool; then be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you store carrots in the cellar and it is + | | | |extremely dry cover them with a little + | | | |moistened sand. + | | | | +Celery + |May be rooted in earth in a cellar or cave and if watered + |occasionally will keep fresh until Christmas. The soil, earth + |or sand, in which the celery is set should be 2 or 3 inches + |deep. This soil must not be allowed to become dry. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool. + | | |5 dozen good plants or bunches. + | | | |Another way to store celery is to bank it to + | | | |the top with earth; cover the tops with + | | | |boards, straw, or leaves and allow it to + | | | |remain where it has grown until wanted for + | | | |use. Another way is to dig a trench 12 inches + | | | |wide and deep enough to correspond with the + | | | |height of the celery, then lift the celery and + | | | |pack it in this trench with some soil about + | | | |the roots. When the weather becomes colder, + | | | |cover the trench with boards nailed together + | | | |in the form of a _V_ shaped trough and over + | | | |this inverted trough put a layer of soil. The + | | | |ends of this trough should be left open for + | | | |ventilation until freezing sets in, then close + | | | |these openings with straw, old bags or soil. + | | | |If the freeze ceases and there is a spell of + | | | |warmer weather open the ends slightly for + | | | |ventilation. When the celery is first stored + | | | |in the trenches the soil about the roots of + | | | |the celery should be watered and and if the + | | | |weather is dry after the celery is put in the + | | | |trenches, pour some water around the roots to + | | | |keep the celery crisp and fresh. + | | | | +Cabbage + |Can be wrapped in paper with the outer leaves left on for + |immediate use and stored in ventilated barrels or large + |crates in the cellar. But as few cellars are cool enough to + |keep cabbage in good condition it is more advisable to store + |it in a long shallow pit in the garden. + | |Is not injured by moderate frost while in the pit but + | |should not be disturbed while frozen. The pit should be + | |long and narrow. Pull the cabbage, stem, root and all, + | |and then laid with heads down about 3 heads in width can + | |be placed in the pit. Cover lightly with soil and as the + | |weather becomes colder add a little more soil until + | |there is a layer 6 or 7 inches thick over the cabbage. + | |Keep the ends of the pit partially open for ventilation + | |until the weather becomes very cold. + | | |25 heads. + | | | |Late varieties of cabbage are the only ones + | | | |fit for storage. It is advisable to dig a + | | | |shallow ditch around the pit so that all + | | | |surplus water can be carried off. + | | | | +Chickory or Endive + |Store in a box or bed of moist sand in the cellar. Put roots + |in an upright position with the sand coming just to their + |tops. Water the sand occasionally. Sometimes a covering of + |straw is added to blanch the tender growth of shoots, which + |is the part used as food. + | |Late in the fall lift the roots out and carefully trim + | |off the leaves without injury to the heart. + | | |5 doz. roots. + | | | |Chickory or endive is grown the same as + | | | |carrots or salsify. It is useful in the winter + | | | |for it furnishes the needed green that is so + | | | |scarce in winter. + | | | | +Beets + |Must not be placed in too large piles in the cellar as they + |are inclined to mold. Can also be buried in pits in open + |ground. + | |Can remain in the ground until very cool weather; then + | |should be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored in + | |the cellar. + | | |1 bushel. + | | | |Beets are not so much inclined to shrivel as + | | | |carrots. + | | | | +Salsify or Vegetable Oyster + |Pack roots in box with moist sand in cellar or as they are + |not injured by remaining in the ground all winter they can be + |left there. Enough for immediate use may be dug in the autumn + |and the others dug as desired. + | |When stored in the cellar after the salsify is pulled, + | |trim off the tops and then stand them in an upright + | |position with the sand even with the tops. + | | |75 to 100 roots. + | | | |Is injured by too much freezing and thawing, + | | | |so should remain frozen. + | | | | +Parsnips + |Can be stored just as salsify or be allowed to remain in the + |ground until wanted. + | |Those that are to be stored in the cellar can remain in + | |in the garden until the weather is quite cool, then + | |prepare and store like salsify. + | | |1 bushel in the cellar and one in the garden. + | | | |Parsnips are best kept frozen or fresh in the + | | | |cellar as too much freezing and thawing + | | | |destroys them. + | | | | +Turnips + |Must be stored where temperature is low or sprouting will + |result. Moderate freezing does no harm while in the storage + |pit but they must not be disturbed while frozen. + | |Pull; cut tops off and store in sand in cellars or + | |caves, or in pits, or in tightly covered boxes or + | |crocks. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |The object is to keep them cold and prevent + | | | |evaporation. It is a good plan to store a + | | | |portion in the cellar so as to be available + | | | |during the time that those buried in the pit + | | | |are "frozen in" and not so easily accessible. + | | | | +Onions + |Require a cool dry place. Attic excellent. + | |Before storing, cure them by exposing to the air for a + | |few days in the shade. Dryness is absolutely essential. + | |A well cured onion should be firm and not readily dented + | |at the base of the tops by the tip of the thumb when + | |held in the hand. + | | |3 bushels. + | | | |Onions are best for storage if topped about 1½ + | | | |inches long. + | | | | +Cauliflower + |Planted in shallow boxes of soil in light place in the + |cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |Store as many as possible. + | | | |If kept well watered they will mature for + | | | |winter use. + | | | | +Brussels Sprouts + |Planted in soil in cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |According to family tastes. + | | | |Keep watered and will mature. + | | | | +Ground Cherries or Husk Tomatoes + |May be stored for some weeks in the husk in their layers in a + |dry place free from frost. + | +Kohl-rabi, Winter Radishes, Rutabagas + |Best stored in sand in cellars, cares or pits. + | |Must be kept cold to prevent evaporation. + | | |According to the family tastes. + | | | |Kohl-rabi must be tender when stored. + | | | | +Horse-radish + |May be kept in the ground where grown all winter. Must be + |kept frozen as thawing injures it. + | +Pumpkins + |Best kept on shelves in a very dry place. Can be kept on + |shelves in furnace room. + | |Must be ripened and cured and free from bruises. + | | |5 ordinary sized pumpkins. + | | | |Need not be kept especially cold. + | | | | +Squashes + |Susceptible to cold and moisture, so store in a dry place + |where temperature will be between 50 and 60 degrees. + | |Care must be taken that stem is not broken. + | | |10 ordinary sized hubbard squashes. + | | | |Whenever squashes or pumpkins in storage show + | | | |signs of decay, the sound portion should be + | | | |immediately canned. + | | | | +Tomatoes + |Cool cellar or cave; can be wrapped in any absorbent paper + |preferably without printing upon it, and laid upon shelves to + |ripen. The paper absorbs the moisture given off by the + |tomatoes and causes them to ripen uniformly. If cellar is dry + |or well ventilated, tomatoes can be kept a month or six weeks + |in this manner. + | |May be kept until Christmas if vines with the green + | |tomatoes hanging on them are pulled and hung in the + | |cellar. Pull the vines before they are frosted. + | | |All that you can put away. + | | | |Most of the tomatoes that are put into storage + | | | |will ripen and be most acceptable as soon as + | | | |they color up. If these tomatoes, when cooked, + | | | |are found to be very acid, the acidity may be + | | | |overcome by using baking soda. + | | | | +Parsley + |Transplant into flower pots late in the fall. + | |Keep in windows where they will receive plenty of + | |sunshine. + | | +Garlic + |Should be thoroughly cured as are onions. + | |Or it may be braided by the tops into strings which are + | |hung up in dry places for curing and storing. + | | +Head Lettuce + |Rooted in earth in a cellar or cave. + | |Water occasionally. + | | |All you have in the garden. + | | | +Dry beans and peas + |Stored where protected from weevils. + | |Should be fully ripened before shelling. Pick pods by + | |hand as they ripen and spread pods to become thoroughly + | |dry. May be shelled by spreading pods on a sheet and + | |beating them with a stick. Can be cleaned by pouring + | |them from a height of 4 or 5 ft. upon a sheet and + | |allowing the wind to blow the particles of pod out of + | |them as they fall. + | | |As many as you can gather. + | | | +Apples + |Must be kept in a dry, cool place and so stored as to be in + |no danger of absorbing odors from vegetables stored nearby. + |Apples absorb odors from potatoes, onions, turnips and other + |strong vegetables. + | |Sort apples carefully removing and using at once all + | |fruit that is bruised and shows signs of decay. The best + | |results are obtained by wrapping each apple in half a + | |sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates + | |or bins. The wrapping prevents apples from touching and + | |thus prevents decay. It also protects apples from odors + | |of vegetables stored nearby. + | | |As many barrels of apples as possible. Remember + | | |that "An apple a day will keep the doctor away." + | | | |The cellar or other storage place must be kept + | | | |cool. 32° F. is ideal. Never allow temperature + | | | |to go above 40° F. They can be stored + | | | |unwrapped in barrels, boxes, crates, bins, + | | | |etc., if proper attention is paid to sorting, + | | | |to providing a cool place for storage, to + | | | |occasional sorting during the winter and for + | | | |the immediate removal of all decayed fruit. + | | | |Even if you do not raise apples, but have a + | | | |good storage place, meeting the requirements + | | | |as regards temperature, you will find it + | | | |advantageous to buy a winter's supply in the + | | | |autumn, when prices are low. + + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + +You have some delicious jellies, jams, canned fruits and vegetables +that you wish to sell and you do not know just how to go about it. +There are at your disposal several means of selling: + +1. Through advertising. + +2. Through personal letters to desirable shops, delicatessens, +boarding-houses, colleges, etc. + +3. By direct salesmanship; that is, by making personal visits to the +buyers, either homes or stores. + +4. Through jobbers to whom you pay a commission on all sales. + +5. Through coöperative selling. + +Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way for you to handle your problem is +to employ the method so much used to-day and that is wayside +advertising. Wayside advertising costs practically nothing and yet it +pays. + +Autos are everywhere these days. You cannot take a country ride +without seeing many signboards at the farm entrances advertising +chickens, fresh eggs, vegetables, honey, apples and canned goods. I +have a friend who drives 50 miles every fall for her honey. She first +found it by seeing the sign in front of the farm and now she returns +year after year because she thinks no other honey is just like it. She +would never have discovered it if that farm woman had not been clever +enough to think of advertising her goods in this cheap way. My friend +told all her other "auto" friends, so the country woman has a splendid +outlet for her product now. If you live on a good road that is +patronized at all by autoists you ought to get your signboard up at +once. + +We often pass a farm where the sign "Fresh Home-Made Candy" always +tempts us to stop and buy. What autoist could resist that sign? And +here miles from town this clever woman is carrying on a profitable +side trade, which is netting her a nice little yearly income. Her +candy is good; we go often and so do many others. She has turned her +profession into a paying proposition. She could send her candy away by +parcel post or by some other means, but she would not be so far ahead +as she is now. + +In addition to your wayside advertising you could advertise in papers, +magazines, etc. Many producers believe strongly in advertising in +daily and weekly papers. You can quickly find out whether this kind of +advertising pays. Give it a trial at least. After you have spent ten +or fifteen dollars in advertising you ought to know whether it pays. + +Use one or two of the city papers near you, taking the publisher's +advice as to the best day of the week on which to run the +advertisement, the size and the position of the "ad." The first cost +of getting your customers may seem high, but with good products you +could soon build up a list of people to whom sales can be made year +after year. + +This form of advertising has many advantages. If your advertising copy +is clever and you have some novelty to offer, you ought to receive +many orders. If orders come, you get the full retail price, the +shipping charges are paid by the customer, and cash comes with every +order. And it means, if your customers are pleased, that you have +permanent customers. The initial cost is great and there is a risk, +but remember "it pays to advertise." + +There are millions of city women who never can a jar of fruit or put +up a single glass of preserves or jelly who will be glad to have you +send your goods direct to them by parcel post. But you must get in +touch with these women either through wayside advertising, magazine +and paper advertising or by direct salesmanship, although very few +women have the time for personal calls. + +Considerable business can be done by letter writing to stores, +restaurants and boarding-houses in distant cities. It may be +impossible for you to go personally, in which case letters often bring +the desired results. Make your letters business-like and typewrite +them. Do not be discouraged if you do not get many replies at first as +there are at least fifty per cent who pay no attention to such +letters. But this form of advertising usually pays. + +Another method followed by many home canners is that of marketing +direct to the retail grocers, care being taken, of course, to protect +these grocers by not selling to more than one member in a community. +One of the great advantages, of this direct salesmanship is that +little selling effort is required on your part after the first +arrangements have been made. The nearby market plan is greatly to be +recommended because you can keep in touch with your selling concern, +build up a line of desirable goods and promote its sale by +advertising. + +Of course you can get more money for your goods if you have time and +the opportunity to sell _direct to_ the consumers. You will of +necessity have to sell cheaper to the grocers because they too must +make their profit. Marketing direct to the consumer has a special +appeal to many people. Where time is available and the community +accustomed to purchasing in this manner, this method offers great +possibilities. The profits are of course higher but the results more +uncertain, for it is somewhat difficult to gauge the demands of the +public, and the canner must assume the risk ordinarily taken by the +merchant. + +It takes time and patience to develop a list of customers but if you +have time in the winter to do this you will find it will pay you well. +If you can get customers who are willing to pay good prices for +quality, scrupulous cleanliness and the homemade flavor, you will get +a larger gross return than if you sold through merchants, but if your +time is valuable it would scarcely pay you to take individual orders +and deliver goods. + +There is still another way and that is to market your home-canned +products in large lots to jobbers, but if this plan is to be pursued +successfully there must be a reasonably large pack and wholesale +rates. This method produces more uniform profits year by year, for +after a reputation is established the home-canner would not experience +great difficulty in thus disposing of her entire output by contract, +providing the quality was high and the price demands not excessive. + +But the greatest and best way of all to find a profitable market for +your things is to coöperate with other canners in your own +neighborhood and find a market for quantity as well as quality. +Delicatessens, club houses, tea shops, college dormitories, +restaurants and hotels, all pay good prices for fine quality. No big +buyer will bother to purchase one or two dozen of this or that. He +wants dozens of things. One of the very best profitable ways to sell +with little trouble is through quantities. Get all the women in your +community to bring together cans of fruit and preserves, etc., to some +marketing place. Find out how many jars of currant jelly you have, how +many cans of peas and corn, how many of cherries, etc., and then +notify your buyer or prospective buyer. + +Coöperative selling has been undertaken and found profitable. In some +cases, especially in localities frequented by the summer boarder or +the automobile tourist, sales are made direct to customers who come to +the salesrooms of the organizations or to their special sales; in +other cases goods are sent by parcel post and other means. The women +in the community can hire or beg a room where all the women of the +community can sell their products for individual profit. This room +should be located on the direct automobile road in order to attract +tourists and automobile parties. An annual membership fee of from 50 +cents to $1 generally is required for these organizations, and a +charge of from 10 to 15 per cent of the selling price usually is made +to cover the cost of selling. In a few instances the managing board +has been able to secure an efficient person to take charge of the +enterprise for a specified percentage on the sales. + +Wholesale grocery concerns are interested in big things--orders can +be placed with them. Soda fountains in towns and cities are excellent +customers for the freshest eggs they can get. They are encroaching +more and more on the trade of the restaurants and lunch rooms. Many +serve light luncheons and would be interested in good butter, +preserves and jams. When you get a list of names and addresses write +to several dozen places, tell what your organization has in the way of +guaranteed eggs, homemade products and what kind of service you could +offer in the way of regular shipments. When orders come it is an easy +matter to look up at your local bank the responsibility of any +customer, so there is little risk. Or cash can be insisted upon with +every order, although large concerns prefer to pay after receipt of +goods and bill. + +Each woman in this coöperative organization must keep her goods up to +a certain standard, for an inferior lot of goods sent to a large firm +might ruin a reputation. + +Three things govern the sale of canned products--appearances, quality +and price. So many things enter into consideration of prices +obtainable that it is difficult to set a standard which will be +applicable to different sections. The quality of the pack, its +neatness, the method of marketing and many other matters must be +considered in deciding this all-important point. As a general +proposition, however, if the products are uniformly high grade, prices +may be obtained which are somewhat in excess of factory-made products +marketed in the same manner. + +Like any other new industry, the selling should be developed slowly in +order to minimize the possibility of loss and to assure stable +business. One should study the situation carefully both from the +manufacturing and marketing standpoints. Plan the season's campaign +before taking up the work, and do not let the enthusiasm of the +beginner interfere with good business judgment. + +The selling when rightly managed can be made a successful business or +it can be turned into a liability through careless, unbusinesslike +methods and insufficient or unwise planning. Properly handled it will +pay well for the investment of time and money, and offer opportunity +for the disposal of surplus home-canned, home-grown, homemade and +home-prepared products of all kinds. + + +LIVING UP TO CONTRACTS + +Care must be taken not to contract for more than can be delivered. +This would be bad business, and business principles must govern in +selling home products just as in other enterprises if one is to be +increasingly successful from year to year. + +Occasionally a quantity of fruit which will not meet the rigid +requirements of the canning business can be turned into preserves, +jellies or fruit juices. Preserves and jellies should be marketed in +glass, and fruit juices in bottles, although some manufacturers are +now marketing some of these products in fiber cups. This line of +products will require some additional equipment, but there is a steady +demand for such homemade things and many women are deriving profits +through the sale of their tastily prepared jellies, just as pickles +and condiments have lined the pocketbooks of ambitious housewives +before now. + +Home canning for the market is essentially a matter of specializing +and of giving the consumer a better product than he is accustomed to +purchase. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the maintenance of a +high standard for home-canned goods. Care should be taken that every +jar measures up to a rigid standard, for a single one which falls +below grade will neutralize the reputation and standing obtained by +the sale of a dozen jars of perfect product. A quality is necessary +which will warrant a money-back guarantee on every jar. + + +THE USE OF LABELS IN CANNING + +Labels for both tin cans and glass jars should tell the truth as to +the quality, weight and kind of product within the pack. Before +adopting a trade-mark and label, consult the Bureau of Chemistry, U.S. +Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., as to label requirements +for canned goods prepared for the market. + +It pays to show samples of all your canned goods at county and state +fairs. You may win many premiums. Goods which are canned with +preservatives should be debarred from all exhibits. + + +PACKING GLASS FOR SHIPPING + +Wrap each glass or jar separately in rumpled newspapers or excelsior +and pack in barrels or boxes. Line these containers with papers or +excelsior. + +Strong corrugated parcel post boxes can be obtained for this purpose. +Wrap each jar with excelsior or paper before putting it in its proper +section. If sending large amounts send all boxes or all barrels, do +not mix them,--sending half barrels and half boxes--as large concerns +like uniform packages. + + +PACKING TIN FOR SHIPPING + +Two dozen cans is the regulation shipping case. Have the shipping +boxes of uniform size. Put the two dozen cans in the box and nail on +the top. Be exceedingly careful not to drive nails into the cans. On +both ends of the box paste labels such as are on the cans, telling +what the contents of the box are. + +Address the box carefully using marking ink or a regulation tag. If a +tag, tack with small tacks on the top of the box. Write your own name +and address on the tag _distinctly_ as the sender. Be as careful of +the tacks as you were of the nails. Always get a receipt from your +express agent if shipping by express as this will be necessary in case +of non-receipt of goods. + +Send to the concern or individual to whom you are sending the goods a +list of the things you have sent. This is called an invoice. Keep a +copy of the invoice for yourself so if any question arises you will +know what you are talking about. + + +SHIPPING TERMS + +C.O.D. means collect on delivery. The purchaser pays the price of the +products to the transportation company before they are delivered. + +F.O.B. means free on board. For instance: if you send a shipment of +canned goods to Chicago at $6.00 per case f.o.b. Charles City it means +that you deliver the canned goods to the freight depot at Charles City +and the purchaser pays both the price per case and the freight. If you +deliver them f.o.b. Chicago it means you deliver them to the freight +depot at Charles City and also pay the freight to Chicago. + +Bill of Lading with Sight Draft Attached is a call for the money +before the purchaser can take the products from the freight office. + +Drop Shipment. If a wholesale firm requests that you ship direct to +another firm buying from him, thus avoiding two shipments, this is +called a drop shipment. + +Lot Shipment. If you ship two or more barrels or cases as a "lot +shipment" to the same destination they may be sent at a cheaper rate +than if each were shipped separately. + + LIST OF FIRMS FURNISHING SUPPLIES FOR CANNING, DRYING, PRESERVING, ETC + + HOME AND CLUB COÖPERATIVE CANNING OUTFITS AND DEVICES + + Butler Manufacturing Co. Kansas City, Mo., and Hot water and steam + Minneapolis, Minn. pressure canners. + + Carolina Metal Products Co. Wilmington, N.C. " " " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. Hot water canners. + + Farm Canning Machine Co. Meridian, Miss. " " " + + Favorite Manufacturing Co. Tamps, Florida Water-seal canners. + + Florida Metal Products Jacksonville, Fla. Water-seal canners. + + Griffith & Turner Co. 205-207 N. Pace St., Steam canners. + Baltimore, Md. + + Halftime Cooker Co. 7556 Oglesby Avenue, Pressure canners. + Chicago, Ill. + + Hall Canner Co. Grand Rapids, Mich. Hot water bath + canners. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co 80-82 N. 5th Street, Steam pressure + Portland, Ore. canners. + + Home Canner Manufacturing Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + Co. + + E.F. Kirwan & Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Modern Canner Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Monarch Manufacturing Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Northwestern Steel & Iron Eau Claire, Wis. Steam pressure + Wks. canners. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Nashville, Tenn. Hot water canners. + Co. + + Pressure Cooker Co. Denver, Colo. Aluminum steam + pressure cookers + and canners. + + T.H. Raney Chapel Hill, N.C. Hot water canners. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Steam pressure + canners + + Royal Supply Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Steam process + canners. + + Southern Canner and Chattanooga, Tenn. Hot water canners + Evaporator Co. + + Sprague Canning Machinery 222 No. Wabash Ave., Steam pressure + Co. Chicago, Ill. canners. + + F.S. Stahl 212 N. 4th Street, Hot water canners. + Quincy, Ill. + + Standard Water-Seal Canner 17 N. 2nd Street, Water-seal canners. + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Utility Company Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + + Willson Canner Company Louisville, Ky., and Water-seal and + No. 8 G St., N.W. pressure canners. + Washington, D.C. + + + HOME EVAPORATORS, DRYERS, AND EQUIPMENT FOR DRYING + + American Paring Machine Co 1231 Callowhill St., + Philadelphia, Pa. Peeler + + Harry Bentz Engineering Co. 90 West St., New York City Dryer + + G.S. Blakekslee & Company, 2806 Quinn St., Chicago, Ill. " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. + + Enterprise Mfg. Co., 3rd and Dauphin Sts., + Philadelphia, Pa. Slicer + + Edw. B. Fahrney, Waynesboro, Pa. + + Gordon Engineering Corporaton 39 Cortlandt St., New York City " + + The Grange Sales Association, Lafayette Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Hunter Dry Kiln Co. Indianapolis, Ind. Dryer + + Imperial Machine Company, 108 West 34th St., N.Y. City Cuber + + Lake Breeze Motor Co., 564 W. Monroe St., Chicago Dryer + + Philadelphia Drying Machinery Stekley St., above Westmoreland, + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. " + + Philadelphia Textile Machinery Sixth St. and Tabor Road, " + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co., Nashville, Tenn. + + John E. Smith's Sons Co., Buffalo, N.Y. Cuber + + Southern Evaporator Co., Chattanooga, Tenn. + + F.S. Stahl, 212 N. 4th St., Quincy, Ill. + + N.R. Streeter Company, Rochester, N.Y. Dryer + + N.R. Streeter & Co., Rochester, N.Y. " + + B.F. Sturtevant Company, Hyde Park Dist., Boston, Mass. Peeler + + Stutzman Mfg. Company, Ligonier, Ind. + + H.G.W. Young Co., 61 Hanover St., Boston, Mass. Cuber + + + MECHANICAL SEALS AND SEALERS FOR TIN AND GLASS + + American Metal Cap Co., + Summit St. and Commercial + Wharf, Brooklyn, N.Y. Metal bottle caps. + + American Pure Food Process Co., + Greenmount Avenue and Preston + St., Baltimore, Md. Mechanical sealer for glass jars. + + Bowers Can Seal Company, + 146 Summer St., Boston, Mass. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + Burpe Can Sealer Co., + 215 W. Huron St., Chicago. Tin can sealer and opener. + + Columbia Specialty Co., + Baltimore, Md. Metal bottle caps. + + Crown Cork and Seal Co., + Baltimore, Chicago, San + Francisco, and other cities Sanitary metal bottle caps and sealers. + + The Enterprise Mfg. Co., + Philadelphia, Pa. Bottle cappers from 3 in. to 14 in. + + Frazer & Co., Mechanical hand sealer for sanitary + 50 Church Street, New York City cans. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co., + 47 1st Street, Portland, Ore. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + States Metals Co., Hand sealers for sanitary cans. + 30 Church Street, New York City + + + STEAMERS + + Aluminum Cooking Utensil Co. New Kensington, Pa. + + Toledo Cooker Co. Toledo, Ohio. + + Wilmot, Castle & Co. Rochester, N.Y. + + + + HEATING DEVICES, LIFTING CRATES, AND OTHER LABOR-SAVING DEVICES + + L.B. Allen Co. 4517 No. Lincoln St., + Chicago, Ill. Commercial flux. + + Biddle-Gaumer Co. Philadelphia, Pa. Patent canners. + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Fagley & Halpen Philadelphia, Pa. " " " + + Handy Mfg. Co. Maritime Bldg., + Seattle Wash., and Individual jar holders. + 208 No. Wabash Ave., + Chicago, Ill. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Duplex fork. + + Manning, Bowman & Co. Meriden, Conn. Alcholite stoves. + + Parker Wire Goods Co. Worcester, Mass. Lifting tray for jars. + + Pearce Co. Albion, Mich. Racks and lifters. + + W.H. Schaefer Co. Toledo, Ohio. Fruit jar wrench. + + + + LABELS, STICKERS, SHIELDS AND BADGES + + Camden Curtain and + Embroidery Co Camden, New Jersey. + + R.P. Clarke & Co. Washington, D.C. + + Dennison Mfg. Co. Boston, Mass. + + U.S. Printing and + Lithograph Co. Cincinnati, Ohio. + + + TIN CANS AND GLASS JARS + + American Can Co. New York City. Tin cans. + + Ball Bros. Glass + Mfg. Co. Muncie, Ind. Screw top and glass-top jars + + Ben Schloss San Francisco, Cal. Glass jars. + + Buck Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Chesapeake Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Continental Can Co. Chicago, Ill. Tin cans. + + Frazer & Co. 50 Church St., N.Y.C. Sanitary cans. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Glass-top jars. + + Johnson-Morse Can Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Tin cans. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle + Co. Zanesville, Ohio. Glass jars. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Suction seal and Mason + jars. + + E.F. Kirwan Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans and general + equipment. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. Suction seal and screw + top jars. + + Smalley Fruit Jar Co. 26 Dock Sq., Boston, Glass-top jars. + Mass. + + Southern Can Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + F.S. Stahl Quincy, Ill. " " + + Staunton Jar Corporation Ellicott Sq, Buffalo, Vacuum seal jars. + N.Y. + + United States Can Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Tin cans. + + Virginia Can Co. Buchanan, Va. " " + + Wheeling Can Co. Wheeling, W.Va. " " + + + RUBBER RINGS FOR COLD-PACK CANNING + + Acme Rubber Co. Trenton, N.J. + + Boston Woven Hose & + Rubber Co. Boston, Mass. + + United States Rubber Co. Cleveland, Ohio. + + + GLASS BOTTLES AND OTHER CONTAINERS FOR FRUIT JUICES, CATSUP, + ETC. + + Adams Brothers Co. Chicago, Ill. + + Atlantic Bottle Co. 90 West Broadway, N.Y. City. + + Berney-Bond Glass Co. Bradford, Pa. + + Cape May Glass Co. Cape May Court House, N.J. + + Cumberland Glass Mfg. Co. Bridgeton, N.J. + + The Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Glenshaw Glass Co. Glenshaw, Pa. + + C.C. Goss Glass Co., Mfg. Agts. 172 Fulton St., New York City. + + Hocking Glass Co. Lancaster, Ohio. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Indiana Glass Co. Dunkirk, Ind. + + D.C. Jenkins Glass Co. Kokomo, Ind. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Wheeling Glass Bottle Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Ripley & Co. Connellsville, Pa. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. + + Sheffield Glass Bottle Co. Sheffield, Pa. + + The Sterling Glass Co. Lapel, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + United States Glass Co. Salem, N.J. + + Upland Flint Bottle Co. Upland, Ind. + + Western Bottle Mfg. Co. West end Randolph St. Bridge, + Chicago, Ill. + + Whitall-Tatum Co. 410-416 Race St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Wightman Bottle & Glass Mfg. Co. Parkers Landing, Pa. + + Williamstown Glass Co. Williamstown, N.J. + + Woodbury Glass Co. Winchester, Ind. + + + GLASS BOTTLES SEALED WITH CORKS AND METAL CAPS + + Acme Glass Co. Olean, N.Y. + + Binghamton Glass Co. Binghamton, N.Y. + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Jeanette Glass Co. Jeanette, Pa. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Baltimore Bottle Glass Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Whitney Glass Works Glassboro, N.J. + + + EARTHENWARE AND STONEWARE CONTAINERS + + Buckel Pottery Co. White Hall, Ill. + + Buckeye Pottery Co. Macomb, Ill. + + Burley and Winter Pottery Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Hawthorn Pottery Co. Hawthorn, Pa. + + Logan Pottery Co. Logan, Ohio + + Louisville Pottery Co. Louisville, Ky. + + Muskingum Pottery Co. White Cottage, Ohio. + + Nashville Pottery Co. Nashville, Tenn. + + Nelson McCly Sanitary Hardware Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Paducah Pottery Co. Paducah, Ky. + + Pfaltzaraff Pottery Co. York, Pa. + + Ransbottom Bros., Pottery Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Red Wing Union Stoneware Co. Red Wing, Minn. + + Star Stoneware Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Uhl Pottery Co. Evansville, Ind. + + Western Stoneware Co. Monmouth, Ill. + + White Hall Sewer Pipe & Stoneware Co. White Hall, Ill. + + + FIBRE AND PAPER CANS AND BOTTLES + + American Can Co. 447 W. 14th, New York City, and + Chicago, Ill. + + The American Paper Can Co. Washington, D.C. + + The Canister Company of New Jersey Phillipsburg, N.J. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cordley & Hayes 7-9 Leonard St., New York City. + + The Empire Paper Tube and Box Co. 155 Bank St., New York City. + + The Hygeia Paper Container Co. 2106 Auburn Ave., Toledo, Ohio. + + Moisture Proof Fibre Can Co. Detroit, Mich. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + Samuel W. Moore & Sons 95 Liberty St., New York City. + + National Paper Can Co. 576 Clinton St., Milwaukee, Wis. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Pure Food Package Co. 200 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass. + + The Purity Paper Bottle Co., Inc. 1341 S. Capitol St., Washington, + D.C. + + W.C. Ritchie & Co. 400 S. Green St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sanitary Paper Bottle Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Single Service Package Corp. of + America 326 Hudson St., New York City. + + St. Louis Paper Can & Tube Co. 4400 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, Mo. + + The Standard Package Co. 50 State St., Boston, Mass. + + Washington Paper Can Co. 425 12th St., N.W., Washington, D.C. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + FOIL-LINED PAPER BAGS + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + + DELIVERY CONTAINERS FOR EGGS, VEGETABLES, DRIED FOOD PRODUCTS, + ETC. + + Bloomer Bros. Co. Newark, New York. + + Doane Carton Co. 920 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + W.A. Schurmann & Co. 365 E. Ill. St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sefton Mfg. Co. 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + United States Corrugated Fibre + Box Co. Roosevelt Ave., Indianapolis, Ind. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + PARCEL POST EGG CONTAINERS + + O.B. Andrews Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. + + H.K. Brunner 45 Harrison St., New York City. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St Louis, Mo. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cummer Mfg. Co. Cadillac, Mich. + + Day Collapsible Box Co., Inc. Washington Grove, Md. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + F.B. Foster & C o. 2447 Locust St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Ohio No-Break Carrier Co. 702 Mercantile Library Bldg., + Cincinnati, Ohio. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Self-Locking Carton Co. 437 E. Illinois St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord & Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Safety Egg Carrier Co. Newark, N.Y. + + Wallace Egg Carrier Co. 451 3rd St., San Francisco, Cal. + + + MISCELLANEOUS CORRUGATED BOARD CONTAINERS + + American Can Co. New York City and Chicago, Ill. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord and Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Corrugated Fibre Box Co. 1315 Martindale Ave., Indianapolis, + Ind. + + + THERMOMETERS FOR OVEN, CANDY AND SUGAR + + Taylor Instrument Companies Rochester, N.Y. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 *** |