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diff --git a/13775-h/13775-h.htm b/13775-h/13775-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4934720 --- /dev/null +++ b/13775-h/13775-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9986 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Every Step in Canning, by Grace Viall Gray</title> +<style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + } + HR { width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .note {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em;} /* footnote */ + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + .sidenote {width: 20%; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em; padding-left: 1em; font-size: smaller; float: right; clear: right;} + hr.full { width: 100%; + height: 5px; } + a:link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:visited {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:hover {color:red} + pre {font-size: 9pt;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 ***</div> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Every Step in Canning, by Grace Viall Gray</h1> +<hr class="full" noshade> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>EVERY STEP IN</h1> +<h1>CANNING</h1> +<h1>THE COLD-PACK METHOD</h1> +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B</h2> +<p style='text-align: center;'><b><i>Formerly Associate Professor +of Home Economics, Iowa State College</i></b></p> +<p style='text-align: center;'>1920</p> +<br> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> +<p>It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, +Cold-Pack Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand +one day at a federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a +few weeks there would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty +miles away. Immediately I announced that I was going to the +demonstrations. So leaving my small daughter with my mother, I went +to the Normal School at DeKalb, Illinois, and heard and saw for the +first time cold-pack canning.</p> +<p>It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded +full of interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I +felt amply repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, +the first story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in +<i>The Country Gentleman</i> and I had the pleasure of writing it. +So enthused was I over this new, efficient and easy way to can not +only fruits but hard vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that +I wanted to carry the good news into the kitchen of other busy +housewives and mothers.</p> +<p>My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, +just from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, +much against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement +work, my sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that +for the first time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over +one phase of cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that +when she received my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, +"Mother, I am enthused about this canning and want to can +everything in sight this summer," she hastily washed all available +glass jars and tops and had everything in readiness for young +daughter's return. And we canned. We were not content to can alone +but invited all the neighbors in and taught them how to can. Our +community canned more things and more unusual things, including the +hard vegetables, that year than they had ever attempted before.</p> +<p>Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there +were doubting Thomases, but it only took time and <i>results</i> to +convert even the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a +confession. It was much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase +of canning, to master this new method than it was for me with my +four years' training course and my five years of teaching canning +behind me. And this is the reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," +she knew no other method whereas I had to "unlearn" all my previous +methods.</p> +<p>The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from +the old hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you +must forget all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And +right here is where many women "fall down"—they are not +willing to admit that they know nothing about it and so do not get +accurate information about it. They are so afraid of appearing +ignorant. This false feeling is the greatest obstacle in woman's +way.</p> +<p>I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will +say, "Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it +for thirty years." And when I show my surprise, they further +enlighten me with, "and my mother used it before me, too." With a +little <b>tactful</b> questioning I usually get these answers: "Of +course, I do not hot dip and cold dip. I never heard of that +before. I pack the products into the cold jars and for all +vegetables I use a preserving powder because there is no way on +earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless you put +something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right. Then I +cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I ask, +"How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the answer, +"Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems like +such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned, out-of-date +methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and much +actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for +there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old +rather than try the new.</p> +<p>The present book is therefore designed for all interested in +greater efficiency in the home, including not only students of home +economics but all persons who have charge of homes and are +interested in learning new, efficient, time and labor saving +methods.</p> +<p>In the preparation of this book I have received much help from +Mr. O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' +and Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. +I also wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped +to make this book possible by contributing information, advice and +encouragement.</p> +<p>GRACE VIALL GRAY.</p> +<p>October, 1919.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>I.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>GETTING READY TO CAN</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>II.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>SOFT FRUITS AND +BERRIES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>III.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>HARD FRUITS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>IV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_V'>V.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_V'>SOUPS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VI'>VI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VI'>JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, +MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VII'>VII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VII'>MEAT</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VIII'>VIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VIII'>FISH</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IX'>IX.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_IX'>EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN +TIN</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_X'>X.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_X'>INTERMITTENT CANNING OR +FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>XI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>WHY CANNED GOODS +SPOIL</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>XII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XII'>GETTING READY TO +DRY</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIII'>XIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIII'>HOW TO DRY FRUITS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIV'>XIV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIV'>HOW TO DRY +VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XV'>XV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XV'>EVERY STEP IN +BRINING</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVI'>XVI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVI'>CURING, SMOKING AND +PRESERVING MEAT</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVII'>XVII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVII'>PRESERVED OR "CANNED" +EGGS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVIII'>XVIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVIII'>HOME STORAGE OF +VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIX'>XIX.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIX'>HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED +PRODUCE</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<h1>EVERY STEP IN CANNING</h1> +<br> +<a name='CHAPTER_I' id="CHAPTER_I"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER I</h2> +<h3>GETTING READY TO CAN</h3> +<br> +<p>Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of +canning, preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California +fruits by the case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen +cans, according to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was +cheaper and decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, +greens, soups and meats than to take time and strength in the very +hottest season of the year to do our own canning.</p> +<p>But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us +thrift. The crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has +sunk into our minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods +have been adopted by the modern woman. Women who had never canned +in days before the war had to can during war days. Food was so +scarce and so high in price that to buy fancy or even plain canned +products was a severe strain on the average housewife's purse. The +American woman, as was to be expected, came quickly and eagerly to +the front with the solution and the slogan: "More gardens and more +canning and preserving at home."</p> +<p>A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As +I have just said, women who had never canned before became vitally +interested in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, +but jars upon jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so +great was their delight in the finished products that again and +again I heard them say: "Never again shall we depend upon the +grocery to supply us with canned goods."</p> +<p>If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that +their grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just +the same, because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they +would have canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so +apparent during the summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a +result of new canning methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. +The women of to-day were forced into a new field and learned how +satisfying and well worth while the results were. It is safe to +guarantee that every home-canning recruit will become a +home-canning veteran.</p> +<p>The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned +how simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear +that home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the +immediate necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own +because of the war, and it has come to stay because of its many +merits.</p> +<p>There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all +over the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the +"intermittent," the "cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods.</p> +<br> +<p><b>DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS</b></p> +<p>The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was +largely used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in +the preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized +jars, after which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar +is done after the sterilization has been completed, there is always +a possibility of bacteria and spores entering the jar with the +cooked food and the air. Fruits can be handled successfully in this +way, but this method cannot be used for vegetables, greens and +meats. It is a very laborious, hot and hard way to can. Modern +housewives are discarding it more and more every year and are +beginning to place their trust in the newer and far more scientific +methods of canning.</p> +<p>The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still +beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture +into the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all +fruits and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where +they say the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great +objection to this method of canning is that it requires three +periods of sterilization on three different days and three liftings +of jars in and out of the sterilizer.</p> +<p>What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning +should not be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The +"cold-water" is often used in connection with the canning of +rhubarb, green gooseberries and a comparatively few other sour +berry fruits. If the "cold-water" method is used we would suggest +that the product be thoroughly washed, placed in a strainer, +scalding water poured over it, and the product then packed at once, +in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and clean, cold water +applied until the jars are filled. If these steps are taken +carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be successful +with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products will have +to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not +consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE COLD-PACK METHOD</b></p> +<p>The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is +known as the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight +to prove that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory +process for busy housewives to can everything that grows.</p> +<p>This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, +and if I should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am +referring to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are +packed cold in their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or +containers. To the fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables +hot water and a little salt are added. The sterilization is done in +the glass jars or tin containers after they are partly or entirely +sealed, making it practically impossible for bacteria or spores to +enter after the product has once been carefully sterilized or +cooked. In following this method vegetables should first be +blanched in boiling water or live steam, then quickly plunged into +cold water and the skins removed. The products are then packed in +containers and sterilized according to the instructions and recipes +given later.</p> +<p>When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the +product for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled +with food. It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, +processing, boiling and cooking are all interchangeable terms and +mean one and the same thing.</p> +<p>By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food +products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be +successfully sterilized in a single period with but one handling of +the product in and out of the canner.</p> +<p>All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy +pulp, and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than +in any other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is +eliminated and all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause +vegetables and meat to spoil are destroyed.</p> +<br> +<p><b>EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL</b></p> +<p>For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you +have in the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many +of us have purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn +out more at the end of a day and have found it well worth while to +invest a few dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more +efficient. But if you are a beginner and do not care to put any +money in an unknown venture use the available things at hand, just +to prove to yourself and others that it can be done.</p> +<p>Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those +which are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and +basements and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good +condition and will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good +rubber you can use that jar.</p> +<p>If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor +economy to use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably +responsible for more spoiled canned goods than any other cause. +Good tops and good rubbers are requisites for good canning.</p> +<p>For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a +galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail—a new +one, of course. Either is excellent where the family is small and +the canning is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the +cookstove while others employ a large vat. If you should have to +buy the wash boiler or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover +and be sure the pail does not leak. Then all you have to do is to +secure what we call a false bottom, something that will keep the +jars of fruit from touching the direct bottom of the boiler or +pail. This false bottom, remember, is absolutely necessary, for +without it the jars will break during the boiling.</p> +<p>For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and +cut it to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or +bucket. If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a +wooden bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not +available put thin pieces of wood in the bottom—anything to +keep the jars from coming in direct contact with the bottom of the +sterilizer.</p> +<p>If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use +a deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. +This rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars +from becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a +tendency for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be +lost. Do not use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a +false bottom; they are unsatisfactory because they do not allow +proper circulation of water.</p> +<p>Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by +many women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the +market and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned +fingers. Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies +with you, individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will +hold all your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them +separately.</p> +<p>To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no +matter what kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper +than the tallest jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra +inch or two so that the water will not boil over.</p> +<p>Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you +will need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may +be put for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water—if +you haven't running water—for the "cold dip."</p> +<p>If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar +lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the +canner. If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as +they contain an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher +for lifting the jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, +such as scales, knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of +cheesecloth or muslin for blanching or scalding the product, and +the kitchen clock play their part in canning.</p> +<p>No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product +is cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food +will be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is +desired to add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may +be done when the product is packed in the jar.</p> +<p>A great many people have been led to believe through advertising +matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds +for the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep +under the commonly known methods of canning. The first argument +against the use of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It +is possible to sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on +tree, vine, shrub or in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period +method of canning, without the use of a compound. The second +argument against it is that many of the canning compounds are +positively harmful to health. Some of them contain as high as +ninety-five per cent of boric acid. Directors of county and state +fairs should exclude from entry all fruits and vegetables that have +been preserved in any canning compound. Perfect fruit can be +produced without any chemical preservative. The third argument is +that they are expensive.</p> +<p>There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and +garbage pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath +outfits. In these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling +water.</p> +<p>There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the +product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally +used for everyday cookery.</p> +<p>The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the +aluminum pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards +the time required to sterilize food.</p> +<p>Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and +manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the +hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or +hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing.</p> +<p>The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated +but more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker +because it can be used for everyday cooking in the home.</p> +<p>Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, +as they are used daily and not just during the canning season.</p> +<p>Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a +hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen +minutes; in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, +twelve minutes; in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of +steam, ten minutes; in an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten +pounds of steam, five minutes.</p> +<p>It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath +outfit; the shortest and quickest method is with the pressure +cooker that has a pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife +has different financial problems, different hours of working and +different ways of working. Where quick work is desired and expense +is no item the pressure cooker is advisable; where money is scarce +and time is no object the homemade outfit answers. Each one must +decide which outfit is best for her own particular case. It matters +not which outfit you have—they have all been thoroughly +tested and approved by experts. Each one does the work.</p> +<p>This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart +kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart +measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar +opener; wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for +blanching; pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one +tablespoon; one teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring +cup; jar lifter; either a rack for several jars or individual jar +holders; and a clock.</p> +<p>The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept +busy during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices +for outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the +young people of your family and give them something definite and +worth while to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must +be kept busy—if not usefully employed they are often inclined +to mischief. This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can +be used in the back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the +front yard.</p> +<p>Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of +heat required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for +canning are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of +500 feet above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot +increase in altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the +time required as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning +of all kinds of fruits, vegetables, greens and meats.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_II' id="CHAPTER_II"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER II</h2> +<h3>SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</h3> +<br> +<p>Having decided on your canning outfit, whether you are going to +can in boiling water, in a condensed steam cooker, or in steam +under pressure; having gathered together the necessary tools, such +as spoons, knives and a funnel; having raided the storeroom and +collected some jars, you are now ready for the actual work of +canning.</p> +<p>It is rather unfortunate that strawberries should be one of the +very hardest products to can with good results. The canning itself +is simple—all berries are quickly and easily canned—but +strawberries always shrink, are apt to turn a little brown, and, +what distresses us most of all, they float to the top of the +jar.</p> +<p>The berry's tendency to shrink is responsible for loss of color +as well as its floating qualities. However, if you will be +exceedingly careful to remove the berries from the canner the +minute the clock says the sterilizing period is over, you will have +a fairly good product. Two minutes too long will produce a very +dark, shrunken berry. So be careful of the cooking time. Another +thing that makes a good-looking jar is to pack a quart of +berries—all kinds of berries, not merely +strawberries—into a pint jar. If you will get that many in +you will have a much better-looking jar, with very little liquid at +the bottom. It does not hurt the berries at all to gently press +down on them with a silver spoon while you are packing them into +the jar.</p> +<p>We know we are going to get a quart of berries into every pint +jar, so we know just how many quarts of berries we will need to +fill the necessary jars for the next winter's use.</p> +<p>The first thing to do is to test each jar to see that there are +no cracks, no rough edges to cut the rubber, and to see whether the +cover and clamp fit tightly, if a clamp type of jar is used. The +bail that clamps down the glass tops should go down with a good +spring. If it does not, remove the bail and bend it into shape by +taking it in both hands and pressing down in the middle with both +thumbs. Do not bend it too hard, for if it goes down with too much +of a snap it will break the jar. This testing of the bails should +be done every year. The bails on new jars are sometimes too tight, +in which case remove the bail and spread it out. After the bail has +been readjusted, test it again. The chances are it will be just +right. Of course all this testing takes time, but it pays.</p> +<p>If you are using some old Mason jars put a rubber on each jar, +fill the jar with hot water, and then put the cover on tight and +invert. This is a sure test for leakage. Never use a Mason cap +twice unless the cover and collar are separate so that both can be +completely sterilized. Fortunately the old-fashioned Mason jar +metal cover to which a porcelain cap is fastened is going out of +style.</p> +<p>If you still have some of these old covers it will be economy to +throw them away. You will be money ahead in the end. After these +tops have been used once it is impossible to make a fastening +between the porcelain and the metal so tight that it is not +possible for the liquid to seep through and cause the contents to +spoil. This accounts for many failures when old tops are used. For +this reason never use the old-fashioned, zinc-topped covers.</p> +<p>The new and safe Mason jar covers consist of two parts, the +metal collar and the porcelain cap. They are for sale at all +grocery or hardware stores.</p> +<p>If you are using the vacuum-seal jars which have a composition +attached to the lacquered tops, carefully examine this rubber +composition to see that it is perfect. This composition should go +entirely round the top and should not be cut or broken in any +place. If it is the top must be discarded for a perfect one.</p> +<p>Of course with this type of jar no rubber rings are necessary, +as the rubber composition on the lacquered top does the +sealing.</p> +<p>It is a wise plan to go round the tops and over the inside of +all new glass jars with a heavy and dull knife to scrape off any +slivers of glass or bursted blisters that may be still clinging to +the jars. Those on the tops cut through the rubber and cause +leakage. Those in the jars may get into the product. I often find +these splinters, particularly on new straight-sided jars.</p> +<p>It matters not what type of jar you use. Use what you have at +hand, but if you are buying new jars consider the following things +before making your selections: No metal, unless it is enameled or +lacquered, should come in contact with the food. The jars should be +of smooth, well-finished glass. The color of the jar does not +affect the keeping qualities of the food. The top or part of the +top that comes in contact with the contents should be all in one +piece, so as not to offer a place for the accumulation of organisms +and dirt. The jars which have nearly straight sides and a wide +mouth or opening are easier to wash and facilitate better, quicker +and easier packing of the product.</p> +<p>Wash the jars in soap and water. Rinse in boiling water. Some +people temper new jars so they will stand the shock of hot water or +hot sirup without breaking. If you wish to take this extra +precaution put the jars in a dishpan or kettle of cold water after +they have been washed in soapy water; bring the water slowly to a +boil and let it boil fifteen minutes. After the jars are ready test +the rubber rings. This may seem a useless precaution, but it is a +necessary one, for there is no one detail in the business of +canning that is more important. Even in the best boxes of rubbers +there is occasionally a black sheep, and one black sheep may cause +the loss of a jar.</p> +<p>Test each rubber before you use it by pressing it firmly between +the thumbs and forefingers, stretching it very slightly. If it +seems soft and spongy discard it. All rubbers fit for canning +should be firm, elastic, and should endure a stretching pull +without breaking. A good rubber ring will return promptly to place +without changing the inside diameter.</p> +<p>A great many women are laboring under the wrong impression that +color affects the quality of a ring. Some women insist on red, and +others on white. Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter +during the manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index +to its usefulness in home canning.</p> +<p>Use only fresh, sound strawberries or other berries. There is a +little knack about preparing the strawberries that few housewives +know. Hull the berries by <i>twisting the berries off the hull</i>, +instead of pulling the hull from the berry as most women do. You +will have a better-looking berry if you will be careful about this. +Place the berries in a strainer and pour cold water over them to +cleanse them.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO ADJUST THE COVERS</b></p> +<p>Never allow the berries or any fruit to stand in water, as the +flavor and color are destroyed by water-soaking. Pack in glass +jars, pressing the berries down tightly, but without crushing them. +Put the rubber on the jar if you are using a jar requiring a +rubber. Pour hot sirup over the berries. Put the top of the jar in +place, but only partially tighten it.</p> +<p>If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, screw down with +the thumb and little finger, not using force but stopping when the +cover catches.</p> +<p>If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in +place. The spring will give enough to allow the steam to +escape.</p> +<p>In using glass-top jars with the patent wire snap, put the cover +in place, the wire over the top and leave the clamp up.</p> +<p>The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while the product is +cooking, because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover +is not loose enough to allow the steam to escape the pressure may +blow the rubber out or break the jar.</p> +<p>The product is now ready for the canner.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STERILIZING</b></p> +<p>If you are using the homemade outfit, such as wash-boiler or +garbage pail, all berries and soft fruits are sterilized sixteen +minutes; in all commercial hot-water-bath outfits and in condensed +steam, sixteen minutes; in the water-seal, twelve minutes; in the +steam pressure under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; and in the +pressure cooker under ten pounds of steam, five minutes. Do not +allow the pressure to run above ten pounds for soft fruits; fifteen +pounds makes them mushy.</p> +<p>If you use any type of hot-water-bath outfit be sure the water +is boiling when the fruit is lowered into the canner, and <i>keep +it boiling</i> vigorously for the entire sixteen minutes. At the +end of the sterilizing time, <i>immediately</i> remove the jars +from the canner.</p> +<p>In taking canned goods from boiling water care is needed to see +that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows +and doors while lifting the jars out, as a sudden draft might break +them.</p> +<p>Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes if a +cover is screwed down too tight the pressure of the steam from the +inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a +thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then +tighten.</p> +<p>In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a +poor rubber it should be replaced by a new one, and the jar +returned to the cooker for five minutes.</p> +<p>The jars should be sealed tight—covers screwed down, +clamps put in place—immediately after they are removed from +the cooker.</p> +<p>Invert the jar to test the joint, then let it cool. If the seal +is not perfect correct the fault and return the jar to the cooker +for five minutes if hot, ten minutes if the jar is cold.</p> +<p>Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool, +and then be tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the +jars by the cover only. Lift the jar only half an inch, holding it +over the table, so that in case the lid does not hold the jar and +contents will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge +of the cover with a rule. An imperfect seal will give a hollow +sound.</p> +<p>As light injures delicately colored fruits and vegetables, it is +wise to store them in dark places, such as cupboards, or basement +or attic shelves protected from the light. Black cambric tacked to +the top shelf and suspended over the other shelves is a sufficient +protection from light. A discarded window shade can be rolled down +over the shelves and easily pulled up when you desire to take a jar +from the shelves.</p> +<p>Canned goods are best kept at a temperature below seventy +degrees Fahrenheit, where that is at all possible.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</b></p> +<p>It might be well to enumerate the steps in berry and soft-fruit +canning, or do what we called in our schooldays "review it":</p> +<p>1. Get the canner and all its accessories ready.</p> +<p>2. Test and wash jars and tops and put in water to +sterilize.</p> +<p>3. Test rubber rings.</p> +<p>4. Make sirup and put in double boiler to keep hot</p> +<p>5. Prepare the product—hull, seed, stem.</p> +<p>6. Place berries or fruit in strainer or colander.</p> +<p>7. Rinse by pouring cold water over product.</p> +<p>8. Pack from strainer into hot jar.</p> +<p>9. Use big spoon to get a firm pack.</p> +<p>10. Dip rubber in hot water to cleanse it and put it in place on +the jar.</p> +<p>11. Pour the hot sirup over the fruit at once.</p> +<p>12. Put top of jar on, but not tight.</p> +<p>13. Ready for canner.</p> +<p>14. Sterilize for the necessary length of time, according to the +outfit you are using:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hot-water-bath outfit</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Condensed-steam outfit</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water-seal outfit</td> +<td align='center'>12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure, 5 pounds, outfit</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pressure cooker, 10 pounds, outfit</td> +<td align='center'>5</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>15. Remove from canner.</p> +<p>16. Tighten cover, except vacuum-seal jar, which seals +automatically.</p> +<p>17. Test joint.</p> +<p>18. Three or four days later, if perfectly air-tight, label and +store in a dark place.</p> +<p>These steps are followed for strawberries, blackberries, +blueberries, dewberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, raspberries, +and for all soft fruits, such as cherries, currants, grapes and +figs.</p> +<p>The other soft fruits, such as peaches and apricots, which have +a skin, are scalded or "hot dipped" for one to two minutes in +boiling water or steam and are then plunged into cold water. These +two steps of hot-dipping and cold dipping make the removal of skins +a very simple operation. After the skins are removed the fruit is +put into the hot jars and the process continued from Step 8, as +with strawberries.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SIRUPS</b></p> +<p>Of course you are wondering about the sirups for the different +fruits. There is no set rule for making sirup. It is not necessary +to use sirup in canning fruits. The amount of sugar used in the +sirup will depend upon the individual taste. In a first-class +product there should be enough sirup to improve its flavor, but not +enough to make it take the place in the diet of a sweet preserve +rather than a fresh fruit.</p> +<p>The sirups are made either with varying proportions of sugar and +water or with the same proportions boiled different lengths of +time. What is known as the California sirup is made with three +parts of sugar to two parts of water, boiled gently to different +concentrations.</p> +<p><b>Thin Sirup</b>. For a thin sirup take three cups of sugar and +two cups of water. Mix sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. +This is used for all sweet fruits not too delicate in texture and +color, as apples, cherries, pears, or for fruits in which more +sugar will be added in preparation for the table.</p> +<p><b>Medium Thin Sirup</b>. The sugar and water should be boiled +about four minutes, or until it begins to be sirupy. This is used +for raspberries, peaches, blackberries, currants, etc.</p> +<p><b>Medium Thick Sirup</b>. Boil the sugar and water until it +will pile up over the edge of the spoon when it is tipped. This is +used for sour or acid fruits, as plums, gooseberries, apricots, +sour apples, and some of the delicately colored fruits, as +strawberries.</p> +<p><b>Thick Sirup</b>. The sugar and water are boiled until it will +form a ball in the spoon and cannot be poured from the spoon. This +is used for preserves.</p> +<p>It is possible to get more, sometimes almost twice as much, +sirup into a quart jar containing large fruits, as apples and +pears, than into a quart jar containing small fruits, as currants +or blackberries.</p> +<p>There is a little knack worth knowing about combining the sugar +and water for the sirup. If the sugar is sifted into the boiling +water just as fine-grained cereals are sifted into water, there +will be no scum formed. This is a saving of sugar.</p> +<p>If you wish to can strawberries for the market or to win a prize +at the county or state fairs, can them as follows:</p> +<p>Canned by this recipe, strawberries will not rise to the top of +the sirup. Use only fresh, ripe, firm and sound berries. Prepare +them, and add eight ounces of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water +to each quart of berries. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes in an +enameled or acid-proof kettle. Allow the berries to cool and remain +several hours or over-night in the covered kettle. Pack the cold +berries in hot glass jars. Put rubbers and caps of jars in +position, not tight. Sterilize for the length of time given below +for the type of outfit used:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water bath, homemade or commercial</td> +<td align='center'>8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water seal, 214 degrees</td> +<td align='center'>6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 pounds steam pressure</td> +<td align='center'>5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>10 pounds steam pressure.</td> +<td align='center'>Do not use.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool and +test the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to prevent bleaching.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_III' id="CHAPTER_III"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER III</h2> +<h3>HARD FRUITS</h3> +<br> +<p><b>PINEAPPLES</b></p> +<p>The object of canning citrus fruits is, first, to save the +surplus and by-products; second, to furnish wholesome fruits at +reasonable cost to more of our people; third, to help the producer +to transform by-products into net profits.</p> +<p>Almost every one likes canned pineapple, but some housewives +stopped canning this fruit because they found that when cooked in +sirup it seemed to get tough and less palatable. Vegetable and +fruit fibers are toughened when cooked with sugar for any length of +time, so in all cases where you desire to keep the product as +Nature grew it avoid this form of cooking.</p> +<p>When the product is put into the jars with a sirup and cooked in +the jar you will have a product superior to the one that is cooked +over the direct fire in the kettle with the sirup.</p> +<p>But pineapple slices or pieces are so hard they cannot be put +directly into the jars as berries are. Pineapples must undergo a +preliminary process to make them palatable and soft. This +preliminary process is known in canning as "blanching."</p> +<p>After the pineapple has been prepared by paring and removing the +eyes, it can be left in slices or cut into cubes. In cutting hold +the pineapple at the top and use a sharp knife. It is then placed +in a wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth for the blanching. +Blanching means to immerse the product in boiling water for a +certain length of time to reduce its bulk and soften it.</p> +<p>Pineapples are blanched for five minutes. We scald peaches and +apricots, which are soft fruits; but we blanch pineapples, apples +and quinces, the hard fruits.</p> +<p>Scalding means to immerse the product in boiling water for a +very short time—just long enough to loosen the skins. +Blanching is just a longer period of scalding.</p> +<p>When you blanch pineapples use only enough water to cover them. +This same blanching water can be used for making the sirup. It +contains much of the pineapple flavor and there is no reason for +discarding it. But this is absolutely the only blanching water that +is ever used. All other blanching water, particularly that in which +vegetables are blanched, is full of objectionable acids that we +want to get rid of, so under no circumstances must it be used. But +with pineapples the object of blanching is primarily to soften the +hard fiber, so there is no objection to using the blanching +water.</p> +<p>After the pineapple has been in the covered kettle of boiling +water for five minutes, it is held under cold water until cool +enough to handle. Never let it soak in cold water, as that will +impair its delicate flavor. After this it is packed into hot +sterilized jars. Rubber rings are put on the jars, the covers are +put in place—not tight—and the jars are put in the +canner.</p> +<p>Pineapple is sterilized for thirty minutes in a hot-water-bath +outfit; thirty minutes in a condensed steam outfit; twenty-five +minutes in the water-seal; twenty-five minutes in the steam +pressure under five pounds of steam, and eighteen minutes in the +pressure cooker under ten pounds of pressure. At the end of the +sterilizing period the jars are removed, the covers completely +tightened and the joints carefully tested for leakage.</p> +<p>A thin or medium-thin sirup is best for pineapples. Measure the +blanching water and to every two cups of it add three cups of +sugar. If you wish the sirup thin heat until the sugar is +dissolved. If medium-thin sirup is desired, boil it about four +minutes or until it begins to be sirupy.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING PINEAPPLE</b></p> +<p>1. Cut the pineapple into slices of desired thickness.</p> +<p>2. Pare the slices. It is easier to pare the slices than to pare +the whole pineapple.</p> +<p>3. Remove the eyes, using pineapple scissors to facilitate the +work.</p> +<p>4. Blanch pineapple for five minutes in a small amount of +boiling water, using a wire basket or cheesecloth.</p> +<p>5. Cold-dip the pineapple.</p> +<p>6. Make a sirup, using the blanching water. Make a thin or +medium-thin sirup.</p> +<p>7. Pack the pineapple into hot sterilized jars, with good +rubbers on them.</p> +<p>8. Pour the sirup over the pineapple.</p> +<p>9. Put the tops of the jars on—not tight.</p> +<p>10. Sterilize for 30 minutes in hot-water-bath outfit, 30 +minutes in condensed-steam outfit, 25 minutes in water-seal outfit, +25 minutes in steam pressure (5 pounds), 18 minutes in pressure +cooker (10 pounds).</p> +<p>11. Remove from canner, tighten covers and inspect rubber and +joints.</p> +<br> +<p><b>APPLES</b></p> +<p>Here are six ways in which canned apples may be used: as a +breakfast dish, with cream and sugar; baked like fresh apples; in +apple salad, often served for lunch or supper; as a relish with +roast pork—the apples may be fried in the pork fat or the +cores may be cooked with roast pork for flavoring; and for apple +dumplings, deep apple pie and other desserts in which whole apples +are desirable. The sirup of canned whole apples can be used for +pudding sauces or fruit drinks.</p> +<p>Apples are another hard fruit which require blanching, as it +greatly improves their texture and appearance.</p> +<p>Apples and some other fruits, such as pears and quinces, have a +tendency to turn brown when allowed to stand after they are cut. To +prevent their discoloring the pieces may be dropped into mild salt +water as they are pared and sliced. Let them stand for five +minutes, then wash them in clear water and pack. Use a thin sirup +for canning apples.</p> +<p>Summer apples are not firm enough to keep well when canned. They +cook up and lose flavor. They may, however, be canned to be used in +a short time. Windfall apples may be pared, cored and sliced, using +water, and only a small quantity of that, instead of sirup, and +canned for pies.</p> +<p>To be able to can windfall and cull apples and thus have them +for home use through the entire year is a great advantage to all +farmers who grow them. They can be sold on the market canned when +they would not bring a cent in the fresh state.</p> +<p>The windfall and cull apples may be divided into two grades. The +first grade would include the whole reasonably sound fruit; the +second grade the worm-eaten, partially decayed and injured fruit. +Do not can any injured or decayed part nor allow apples to become +overripe before canning.</p> +<p><b>Canning Whole Reasonably Firm Apples</b>. Wash the apples. +Remove cores and blemishes. Place whole apples in blanching tray or +blanching cloth and blanch in boiling hot water for one or two +minutes. Remove and plunge quickly into cold water. Pack in large +glass jars. Pour over the product a hot thin sirup. Place rubber +and top in position. Seal partially—not tight.</p> +<p>Sterilize jars twenty minutes in hot-water-bath outfit and in +condensed steam, fifteen minutes in water-seal, ten minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam pressure, five +minutes in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit, under ten pounds of +steam pressure. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and +test joints.</p> +<p>Firm and tart apples may be cored and peeled first, then canned +by the above recipe.</p> +<p><b>Canning Apples for Pie Filling</b>. Use second grade of +windfalls or culls. Wash, core, pare and remove all decayed spots. +Slice apple quickly into a basin containing slightly salted cold +water—about one tablespoon of salt per gallon—to +prevent discoloring. Pack fresh cold product in glass jars. Add one +cupful of hot thin sirup to each quart of fruit. Put on the rubbers +and screw on tops, but do not seal completely. Sterilize twelve +minutes in hot-water bath or condensed-steam outfit; ten minutes in +water-seal outfit; six minutes under five pounds of steam pressure; +four minutes in aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten +covers, invert to cool and test joint. Store.</p> +<p>This filling can be used for making apple pies in the same way +that fresh apples would be used, with the exception that the sirup +must be poured off and less sugar should be used. Since the apples +have already been cooked, only enough heat is needed to cook the +crust and to warm the apples through. Pies may be baked in seven +minutes. The apple pies made with these apples are, in the opinion +of many housekeepers, as good as those made with fresh fruit, and +they can be made in less time and are less expensive.</p> +<p>The only difference between canning apples for pies and salads +or whole is that when wanted for pies the apples should be sliced +immediately after placing in cold slightly salted water.</p> +<p><b>Canning Quartered Apples for Fruit Salads.</b> Select +best-grade culls of firm and rather tart varieties. Core, pare and +quarter. Drop into basin containing slightly salted cold water. +Pack these quartered pieces tightly in jars. Add a cup of hot thin +sirup to each quart. Place rubber and top in position, partially +seal—not tight. Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water bath +and condensed-steam outfits; ten minutes in water-seal outfit; six +minutes under five pounds of steam pressure; four minutes in +aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to +cool and test joints. Store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ORANGES</b></p> +<p><b>Canning Whole Oranges and Other Citrus Fruits.</b> Select +windfall or packing-plant culls. Use no unsound or decayed fruit. +Remove skin and white fiber on surface. Blanch fruit in boiling +water one and a half minutes. Dip quickly in cold water. Pack +containers full. Add boiling hot thin sirup. Place rubber and cap +in position and partially seal—not tight.</p> +<p>Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; eight minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes in +steam-pressure outfit under five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit. Remove jars, tighten covers, +invert to cool and test joints. Wrap glass jars with paper to +prevent bleaching, and store.</p> +<p><b>Canning Sliced Oranges for Salad Purposes</b>. The oranges +may be divided into their natural sections or sliced with a knife. +Pack jars or containers full. Pour over product hot thin sirup. +Place rubber and cap in position. Partially seal—not tight. +Sterilize ten minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; six minutes in water-seal outfit; five minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit under ten pounds of steam. Remove +jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test the joints. Wrap jars +with paper to prevent bleaching, and store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PEARS, QUINCES AND RHUBARB</b></p> +<p>Pears are prepared and canned just as the whole firm apples are, +being blanched a minute and a half, cold-dipped and sterilized for +the same length of time as apples.</p> +<p>Quinces are so very hard they must be blanched like pineapples, +but for a longer time. Six minutes' blanching is usually sufficient +for quinces. The sterilizing period can be determined by looking at +the chart.</p> +<p>If skins are left on rhubarb it keeps its pink color. The hot +dip is not necessary and may be omitted. It removes some of the +excessive acid in the rhubarb which makes it objectionable to some +people. Be very careful not to hot-dip the rhubarb more than one +minute, for it gets mushy. An advantage of the hot dip is that more +rhubarb can be packed in a jar after it has been hot-dipped.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WHAT A BUSHEL OF FRUIT WILL YIELD</b></p> +<p>A great many women have no conception of how many jars of fruit +they will get from a bushel or half bushel of produce. It is wise +to have a little knowledge along this line, for it aids in planning +the winter's supply of canned goods as well as at marketing +time.</p> +<p>From one bushel of the various fruits you will get on the +average the following:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center'>PRODUCTS, 1 BUSHEL</td> +<td align='center'>PINT JARS</td> +<td align='center'>QUART JARS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall apples</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard peaches</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +<td align='center'>18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges—sliced</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges—whole</td> +<td align='center'>35</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING WITHOUT SUGAR</b></p> +<p>Though all instructions indicate that sugar is necessary for the +canning of all kinds of fruits, it is not necessary for their +proper sterilization and preservation. Any fruit may be +successfully sterilized by simply adding boiling water instead of +the hot sirup. It is a well-known fact, however, that most fruits +canned in water will not retain so well their natural flavor, +texture and color as fruit canned in sirup. When the product is to +be used for pies, salads, and so on it is not necessary to can in +sirup. When fruits canned in water are to be used for sauces, the +products should be sweetened before use. In many instances it +requires more sugar to sweeten a sauce after canning than it does +when the product is canned in the hot sirup.</p> +<p>However, during the World War we had a good chance to test the +fruits which we canned without sugar, when that commodity was +scarce and, in fact, impossible to get in very large quantities. We +used our fruits just as they were and considered them very good. +This all goes to show that we can easily adjust ourselves to +prevailing conditions. In canning without the sugar sirup, you +would follow these directions:</p> +<p>Cull, stem or seed, and clean fruit by placing in a strainer and +pouring water over it until clean. Pack product thoroughly in glass +jars until full; use table knife or tablespoon for packing +purposes. Pour over the fruit boiling water from kettle, place +rubbers and caps in position, partially seal glass jars and place +produce in canner.</p> +<p>If using hot-water-bath outfit sterilize from twenty to thirty +minutes. After sterilizing remove packs, seal glass jars, wrap in +paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry cool place.</p> +<p>When using a steam-pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath +sterilize for ten minutes with five pounds of steam pressure. Never +allow the pressure to go over ten pounds when you are canning soft +fruits.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WHEN TO CAN</b></p> +<p>Inexperienced canners may not know when certain fruits are in +season and at their prime for canning. The list below is +necessarily subject to change, as seasons vary from year to year; +but in normal years this table would hold true for the Northern +States.</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apricots</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Blackberries</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Currants</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gooseberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Grapes</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Huckleberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>August-September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pineapple</td> +<td align='left'>June</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Quinces</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Raspberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Rhubarb</td> +<td align='left'>All summer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Strawberries</td> +<td align='left'>May-June</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>For your canning you will need as your guide the charts on the +pages which follow. They are very simple and will tell you how to +prepare all the various fruits, whether or not they are to be +blanched, and if so exactly how many minutes, and how long to cook +or sterilize the products, according to the outfit you are +using.</p> +<br> +<h3>CHART FOR CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='center' colspan='6' class='bb'><b>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO +STERILIZE</b></td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' valign='bottom' class='bb'>KIND OF FRUIT / +PREPARATION</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO BLANCH OR +HOT-DIP</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT +212°F</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT +214°F</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 +POUNDS</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>REMARKS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>APRICOTS: To remove skins hot-dip and +cold-dip. Can be canned with the skins. Pits give a good +flavor</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1 to 2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>BLACKBERRIES: Pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>BLUEBERRIES: Pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CHERRIES: Wash, remove stems, and +remove pits if desired. If pitted save the juice</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup if sour; thin +sirup if sweet</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CURRANTS: Wash and pick from stems</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CRANBERRIES: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>DEWBERRIES: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>FIGS: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Figs can be hot- dipped for a minute +or two if desired. Hot-dipping shrinks the figs so more can be +packed in a jar</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GOOSEBERRIES Wash and snip off stems +and blossom ends</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GRAPES Wash and pick from stems</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>HUCKLEBERRIES Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PEACHES Blanch and cold-dip, then +remove skins.</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1-2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10 (Use only 5 pounds +pressure.)</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>X</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>If peaches are canned under more +than 5 pounds of pressure they become flavorless and dark in +color</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PLUMS Wash; stones may be removed if +desired.</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1-2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>For sweet plums use thin or +medium-thin sirup; for sour plums use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>RASPBERRIES pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>RHUBARB Wash, cut into ½ inch +pieces. Use sharp knife</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Be very careful not to hot-dip the +rhubarb more than one minute, for it gets mushy</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>STRAWBERRIES Pick over, wash and +hull</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='8' class='bb'><b>HARD FRUITS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>APPLES Pare, core and cut into halves +or smaller pieces</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½ to 2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>15</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PEARS Wash, pare or not as desired. +Small pears may be canned whole or quartered</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>15</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PINEAPPLE Cut into slices or inch +cubes. The cores can be removed</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>18</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin or medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>QUINCES Remove skins and cores. Cut +into convenient slices</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>40</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>40</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Apples, pears and quinces should be +dropped into salt water to keep fruit from turning brown. Use salt +in the proportion of one tablespoonful to one gallon of water. Use +thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>WINDFALL APPLES FOR PIE FILLING Cut +into halves</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>QUARTERED APPLES FOR SALAD</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water and save the sugar for +other purposes</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CRAB APPLES Pare and core</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water or use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='8' class='bb'><b>CITRUS FRUITS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>ORANGES, WHOLE Remove skins and white +fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>LEMONS, WHOLE Remove skins and white +fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GRAPEFRUIT, WHOLE Remove skins and +white fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>ORANGE AND OTHER CITRUS FRUITS, SLICED +Slice with a sharp knife</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>FRUITS CANNED IN WATER WITHOUT SUGAR +SIRUP</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>NOTE.—When cooking products in pint or half-pint jars +deduct three or four minutes from the time given above. When +cooking in two-quart jars add 3 or 4 minutes to time. The estimates +given are for quart jars.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_IV' id="CHAPTER_IV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> +<h3>VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>It is practical to can all vegetables, even such difficult ones +as corn, peas and beans, by the cold-pack method of canning without +using any preservatives, if you will follow all directions, +instructions and the time-table accurately. Vegetable canning is a +little more complicated than fruit canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOMATOES</b></p> +<p>Every one likes canned tomatoes. In many homes more tomatoes are +canned than any other product. The housewife uses them for soups, +for sauces and for seasoning many meat dishes. Some women say: "I +can preserve everything but tomatoes. They always spoil. What do I +do wrong?" If the following directions are followed tomatoes will +not spoil.</p> +<p>Tomatoes really are the easiest vegetable to can, because the +period of sterilization is short, and many jars may be canned in a +day, or if one is very busy a few jars may be canned daily without +the expenditure of a great deal of time.</p> +<p>The best tomatoes for canning are those of moderate size, smooth +and uniformly ripe. When a tomato ripens unevenly or when it is +misshapen, it is difficult to peel, and the percentage of waste is +high. Tomatoes should not be picked when they are green or partly +ripe, for the flavor will not be so good as when they are allowed +to remain upon the vines until fully ripe. Care should be taken, +however, not to allow them to become overripe before canning.</p> +<p>In no instance should a tomato with a rotten spot be canned, +even though the spot is cut out, for the occasional spoiled jar +resulting from this attempted saving will cost more than the partly +spoiled tomatoes are worth. If the housewife will can only +uniformly ripe, sound tomatoes, saving the small, uneven but sound +fruit for tomato <i>purée</i>, she will have a much +better-looking pack and greater food value at the close of the +season. Yellow tomatoes may be canned in the same manner as are the +more common red varieties, except that it is not necessary to +remove the cores.</p> +<p>First of all, grade for ripeness, size and quality; this is to +insure a high-grade product. We could, of course, can different +sizes and shades together, but uniform products are more pleasing +to the eye and will sterilize much more evenly. If the products are +of the same ripeness and quality, the entire pack will receive the +proper degree of cooking.</p> +<p>Wash the tomatoes. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Put the +tomatoes in a wire basket, or lay them on a piece of cheesecloth or +a towel, twist the ends together to form a sack, and let this down +into the kettle. It is a good plan to slip a rubber band round the +neck of this sack to hold the ends in place. The ends should be +long enough to stand up out of the water and so avoid danger of +burning the fingers when removing the product.</p> +<p>Have the water boiling hard. Lower the tomatoes into the boiling +water. This is called scalding the tomatoes. We scald the tomatoes +to loosen the skin. If the tomatoes are very ripe, one minute +scalding will be sufficient. The average length of time for +tomatoes, just perfect for canning, is one and a half minutes. Do +not leave the tomatoes in the hot water until the skins break, as +this gives them a fuzzy appearance.</p> +<p>The scalding kettle always should be covered, to keep in all the +heat possible. Begin to time from the minute the product is +immersed in the boiling water. If you wait until the water comes +back to a boil, you will scald the product too long and have mushy +tomatoes.</p> +<p>Lift the tomatoes out of the hot water and plunge them +immediately into cold water, or hold them under the cold-water +faucet. The cold-dip makes them easier to handle, separates the +skin from the pulp, firms the texture, and coagulates the coloring +matter so it stays near the surface, giving them a rich, red color. +Then the shock due to the sudden change from hot to cold and back +to hot again seems to help kill the spores. Do not let the product +stand in the cold-dip. The water becomes lukewarm, softens the +product and allows bacteria to develop.</p> +<p>Take the tomato in the left hand and with a sharp knife cut out +the core. Be careful not to cut into the fleshy portion or seed +cells, for this will scatter the seeds and pulp through the liquid, +injuring the appearance of the product. Cut out the core before +removing the skin, for the skin will protect the pulp and there +will be less danger of breaking the tomato. If the tomatoes are +ripe and have been scalded properly, the skin can be slipped off +with the fingers.</p> +<p>The jars, rubbers and tops should be ready. Glass jars should be +hot, so there will be no danger of breakage in setting them in the +hot water, and so they will not cool the water in the cooker below +the boiling point.</p> +<p>Pack the tomatoes whole, pressing and shaking them well down +together, but not using force enough to crush them.</p> +<p>Now we come to a point where tomatoes are different from most +vegetables. Beans, carrots, peas, and so on, have hot water added +to them. But as a large part of the tomato is water, no more is +needed. Another exception where no water is needed is with the +"greens family." So with tomatoes we add no water, but add one +teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of sugar, just for +seasoning, to every quart jar. I think that tomatoes always are +improved by the addition of a little sugar, but this is not +necessary and can be omitted, as also can be the salt.</p> +<p>The salt in canning does not act as a preservative, but as +seasoning; so if for any reason you forget the salt, do not be +alarmed. Your products will keep perfectly without the salt.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE WAY TO SEAL</b></p> +<p>The products are in the hot jars now. The jars do not need to be +full in order to keep. If you were canning by the "open-kettle" +method, the air in the partly filled jar would not have been +sterilized, and might contain the bacteria which cause the product +to ferment or mold. But by the cold pack, the air in the can is +sterilized while the product is being sterilized; and if the can is +closed immediately after cooking, a single spoonful may be canned +in a two-quart jar and the product will keep indefinitely.</p> +<p><b>Place Rubber and Cover on Jar.</b> Fit the rubber. Use good +rubbers and see that they lie flat and fit close up to the can. Put +the covers in place.</p> +<p><b>Do Not Seal Glass Jars Tight.</b> If using screw-top jars +screw each cover down until it catches, then turn a quarter of a +round back; or screw down with the thumb and little finger, not +using force but stopping when the cover catches.</p> +<p>If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in +place. The spring will give enough to allow the steam to +escape.</p> +<p>If using glass-top jars, with the patent wire snap, put the +cover in place, the wire over the top and the clamp up.</p> +<p>The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while processing, +because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is not +loose enough to allow the steam to escape, the pressure may blow +the rubber out or break the jar.</p> +<p>When canning in tin we cap and tip the cans at once. The tin +will bulge out, but is strong enough to withstand the pressure, and +when the contents cool the can will come back into shape.</p> +<p>The jars are now ready for the canner. Tomatoes sterilized under +boiling water require twenty-two minutes; in condensed-steam +cooker, twenty-two minutes; in water-seal, eighteen minutes; in +steam-pressure, with five pounds, fifteen minutes, and in the +pressure cooker, at ten or fifteen pounds, ten minutes.</p> +<p>If you use the homemade outfit or any water-bath outfit be sure +the water is boiling when the jars of tomatoes are lowered into the +canner. Time lost in bringing the contents to the point of +sterilization softens the tomatoes and results in inferior goods. +Use the ordinary good sense with which you have been endowed in +handling the jars and you will have no breakage. At the end of the +sterilizing period, remove the jars.</p> +<p>In taking canned goods from boiling hot water, care is needed to +see that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the +windows and doors while lifting the jars out, for a sudden draft +might break them.</p> +<p>Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes, if the +covers are screwed down too tight, the pressure of the steam from +the inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover +a thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. +In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber, it should be replaced by a new one and the jar returned to +the cooker for five minutes.</p> +<p>The jars should be sealed tight—covers screwed down, +clamps put in place—immediately after they are removed from +the cooker.</p> +<p>Invert to test the joint and cool. If the seal is not perfect, +correct the fault, and return the jar to the cooker for five +minutes if hot, ten minutes if jar is cold.</p> +<p>Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool +and then tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the +jars by the cover only. Lift the jar only a half inch, holding it +over the table so that, in case the lid does not hold, the jar and +contents will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge +of the cover with a ruler. An imperfect seal will cause a hollow +sound.</p> +<p><b>Tomato Purée.</b> Small, misshapen, unevenly ripened +tomatoes may be converted into tomato <i>purée</i>. The +tomatoes should be washed, run through a colander to remove skins +and cores, concentrated by cooking to about half the original +volume, and packed in the jars. Rubbers and tops should then be +placed in position and the product sterilized for the same length +of time as for canned tomatoes. <i>Purée</i> even may be +kept in bottles sealed with sterilized corks and dipped several +times in paraffin.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW OTHER VEGETABLES ARE CANNED</b></p> +<p>All other vegetables are canned exactly like tomatoes, with two +exceptions. Tomatoes are scalded. All other vegetables are +blanched. We scald tomatoes to loosen the skins and to start the +flow of the coloring matter, which is later arrested or coagulated +by the cold-dip.</p> +<p>Blanching is scalding, only for a longer time. Scalding is never +for more than two minutes. Blanching covers from three to thirty +minutes.</p> +<p>We blanch beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, +and so on, for three to ten minutes. We blanch these vegetables to +eliminate any objectionable acids or bitter flavors which may be +present, and thus improve the flavor; to reduce the bulk so we can +pack closer; to start the flow of the coloring matter; to improve +the texture of the vegetables by making them more tender, and to +improve the appearance by helping to make clear the liquid in the +jar. Blanching is what makes for success in the cold-pack method of +canning. Blanching is <i>very</i> important and must be carefully +and accurately done.</p> +<p>Let me repeat about blanching: Have the kettle of blanching +water <i>boiling vigorously, completely immerse</i> the product in +the boiling water, cover the kettle <i>immediately</i> and begin to +time the product. Do not stand with the cover in hand and wait for +the water to come back to the boil, for, of course, it stopped +boiling for a second when you lowered into it the cold product. If +you cover the kettle the water will quickly reboil. Do not keep +wondering if it is boiling and take off the cover to see. All these +may seem foolish precautions, but it is necessary to follow +directions accurately.</p> +<p>And remember, all things that are scalded or blanched must be +followed immediately by a cold plunge or "cold-dip." The scalding +or blanching is the "hot-dip," and this must be followed by the +"cold-dip." You may be asking, what is the point of this +"cold-dip"? It is a very logical question.</p> +<p>We "cold-dip" a product to harden the pulp under the skin and +thus permit the removal of the skin without injury to the pulp; to +coagulate the coloring matter and make it harder to dissolve during +the sterilization period and to make it easier to handle the +products in packing, and to subject the product to a sudden shock +by quick change in temperature.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p>If you will follow these steps for all vegetable canning you +cannot help but be successful:</p> +<p>1. Clean jars and test rubbers. If rubbers do not return to +normal shape after stretching, do not use.</p> +<p>2. Prepare material to be canned, according to directions given +on chart.</p> +<p>3. Hot-dip—blanch or scald—the prepared food. This +process consists of immersing the prepared product in boiling water +for different lengths of time, according to the material to be +canned. See chart. Hot-dipping shrinks the product and enables one +to pack more material in a jar.</p> +<p>4. Cold-dip the material. This process consists of plunging the +blanched or scalded food into cold water, which makes it more +easily handled. Be sure the water is cold; the colder the +better.</p> +<p>Take the product out immediately and let it drain. <i>Don't let +any food soak in the cold water.</i></p> +<p>From this point on, speed is highly important. The blanched +vegetables which are slightly warm must not be allowed to remain +out of the jars a moment longer than is necessary.</p> +<p>Remove skins when required, and as each article is pared cut it +into pieces of proper size and</p> +<p>5. Pack directly into the clean, scalded cans or jars. Pack as +solidly as possible, being careful not to bruise or mash soft +products. Pack the product to within three-eighths of an inch of +the top. Lima beans, navy beans, peas, corn, pumpkin and sweet +potatoes swell, so pack them within only one inch of the top of the +jar.</p> +<p>6. Add seasoning. One teaspoonful salt to every quart jar of +vegetables, and an equal amount of sugar to tomatoes, corn and peas +if desired.</p> +<p>7. Add boiling water to within a quarter inch of top to all +vegetables, except tomatoes and greens. Tomatoes contain +ninety-four per cent water, so none should be added. Tomato juice +can be used if desired. Greens are canned in just the water that +clings to the leaves after the cold-dip.</p> +<p>8. Adjust rubber rings and the covers of the jars; partially +seal.</p> +<p>9. Sterilize—see time-table on pages following.</p> +<p>10. Remove from canner and completely seal. Test for leaks. Cool +jars as rapidly as possible, without drafts striking them.</p> +<p>Rapid cooling of the product prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture of the product.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR VARIOUS VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p><b>Greens.</b> No water is added to greens. Ninety percent of greens is +water. They are high in mineral matter and we must preserve +that.</p> +<p><b>Asparagus.</b> Remove string before packing in jar. Can or dry tough +ends for soup. If asparagus is packed in jars as whole stalks, pack +with the tips up.</p> +<p><b>Tomatoes.</b> Remove skins before packing. Tomatoes may be canned +whole or in pieces. Skin, cook and strain imperfect tomatoes. Use +this for liquid; as 94 per cent of the tomato is water, no water is +needed.</p> +<p><b>Eggplants.</b> Make slices about ½ to ¾ of an inch +thick. Do not add salt, as it causes eggplants to turn dark.</p> +<p><b>Pumpkin and squash.</b> If you do not wish to scrape out of the +shells you can remove seeds, pare and cut into small blocks of +uniform size. Then blanch.</p> +<p><b>Sweet corn.</b> Corn expands a little in processing, and for this +reason jars should not be filled quite full. Corn that has reached +the dough stage before being packed will have a cheesy appearance +after canning. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the +cold-dip water.</p> +<p><b>Field corn.</b> This product is commonly known as corn-club +breakfast food. The corn should be selected between the milk and +the dough stage. Wide-mouthed glass jars or tin cans should be used +for canning this product. Avoid packing container too full, as the +product swells during the sterilization period. The corn should be +canned the same day it is picked from the field if possible. After +this product has been sterilized and cooked and stored away it will +form a solid, butter-like mass which may be cut into convenient +slices for toasting, frying and baking purposes.</p> +<p><b>Mushrooms.</b> Do not fail to blanch and cold dip. After opening +containers remove the mushrooms immediately and use them as quickly +as possible.</p> +<p><b>Sweet peppers.</b> Place the peppers in the oven and bake them until +the skins separate from the meat. Remove the skin. Pack in hot +jars. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Add boiling water.</p> +<p><b>Lima beans.</b> Lima beans can be either blanched or steamed. If +blanched allow 5 minutes; if in live steam allow 10.</p> +<p><b>Wax or string beans.</b> Beans can be canned whole or cut into +uniform pieces.</p> +<p><b>Cabbage and cauliflower.</b> Cabbage and cauliflower should be +soaked in cold brine (½ lb. salt to 12 quarts water) for one +hour before blanching.</p> +<p><b>Brussels sprouts.</b> Use small solid heads.</p> +<p><b>Peas.</b> A cloudy or hazy appearance of the liquid indicates that +the product was roughly handled in blanching and cold dipping, or +that broken peas were not removed before packing.</p> +<p><b>Carrots and parsnips.</b> Carrots can be packed whole, in slices or +in cross-section pieces. Skin of parsnips can be scraped off after +blanching and cold dipping.</p> +<p><b>Beets.</b> Small beets that run 40 to a quart are the most suitable +size for first-class packs. Well-canned beets will show a slight +loss of color when removed from the canner, but will brighten up in +a few days.</p> +<p><b>Turnips.</b> Scrape skin after blanching and cold dipping.</p> +<p><b>Corn and tomatoes.</b> Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to every quart of +mixture. Mix 2 parts of tomatoes with 1 part corn. One teaspoonful +of sugar improves the flavor.</p> +<p><b>Corn, tomatoes and string beans.</b> Use 1 part of corn, 1 part of +green string beans and 3 parts of tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of +salt and 1 teaspoonful of sugar to every quart jar.</p> +<p><b>CHARTS FOR CANNING ALL VEGETABLES AND GREENS</b></p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='center' class='bb' colspan='6'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO +STERILIZE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' valign='bottom'>VEGETABLES / PREPARATION</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>SCALDING OR BLANCHING +MINUTES</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN BOILING WATER OR HOMEMADE +OUTFIT (212°F.)</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT +214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 +POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='7' class='bb'><i><b>Class 1—Greens, +Domestic and Wild</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>ALL GREENS—SPINACH, BEET TOPS, +CHARD, DANDELIONS, ETC. Pick over; wash in several waters.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Steam in colander or in steamer +until wilted Takes about 15 minutes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 2 +—Special Vegetables</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>ASPARAGUS Wash, remove woody ends; cut +to fit jar; tie in bundles.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch tough ends 4 minutes, tip +ends 2 minutes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>25, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TOMATOES Select fresh, ripe, firm +tomatoes. Skins will slip off after scalding and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Scald 1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>22</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>22</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>18</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>18</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>EGGPLANTS Remove skin after blanching +and cold dipping. Slice crosswise and pack.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch 3</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PUMPKIN AND SQUASH Cut into sections; +remove seeds; scrape shells after blanching and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch 5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN—SWEET Cut corn from cob, +blanch immediately after and cold dip.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 on cob</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN—FIELD Remove husk and silk. +Cut the corn from the cob after it has been blanched and cold +dipped. Feed the corn to a food chopper and grind to a pulp. Cook +this product in a kettle, add ⅔ teaspoonful sugar and ⅓ +teaspoonful salt to each quart. Cook (stir while cooking) until the +product has assumed a thickened or pastelike mass.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>MUSHROOMS If small, can them whole; if +large they may be cut into sections.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>SWEET PEPPERS Use either green or red +peppers.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>..</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 (1¾ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 3—Pod +Vegetables and Other Green Products</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEANS—LIMA Shell and wash.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEANS—WAX OR STRING Wash and +string.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CABBAGE Use small solid heads of +cabbage.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CAULIFLOWER Use flowered portion of +cauliflower.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>20, at 15 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BRUSSELS SPROUTS Cut into sections and +remove core.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PEAS Shell and wash. Add 1 teaspoonful +of salt and 1 tea- spoonful of sugar toevery quart.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 to 15 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 4—Roots +and Tuber Vegetables</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CARROTS, PARSNIPS, SALSIFY Remove skin +by scraping after blanching and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEETS To retain the color of beets +leave 3 or 4 inches of the stem and all the root on while +blanching. After cold dipping, the skin may be removed Scrape the +skin.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TURNIPS Wash thoroughly with a +vegetable brush.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class +5—Vegetable Combinations</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN AND TOMATOES Prepare individual +vegetables and then combine and pack.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>..</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN,<br> +TOMATOES AND<br> +STRING BEANS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3<br> +1½<br> +5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Count from time when water begins to boil (bubbles all over). +This time schedule is for both pint and quart jars. Add 30 minutes +to time of sterilizing for 2-quart jars.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_V' id="CHAPTER_V"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER V</h2> +<h3>SOUPS</h3> +<br> +<p>After one has learned how to can fruits and vegetables +successfully, the next thing to attempt is the canning of +soups.</p> +<p>Soups may be canned with or without meat. We make one variety +which is a pure vegetable soup. We use no stock or meat, and can it +in its own juice or liquor, thus using no water.</p> +<p>When we wish to use it we dilute it three or four times and +serve it as a vegetable soup or, more frequently, when we have +chicken bones or any meat bones on hand, we add a can of this +concentrated vegetable mixture to the bones and make a delicious +stock soup.</p> +<p>I will give this recipe as I have given it to many friends, all +of whom have pronounced it excellent:</p> +<ul> +<li>1 Peck ripe tomatoes</li> +<li>1 Head cabbage</li> +<li>1 Dozen carrots</li> +<li>1 White turnip</li> +<li>3 Pounds string beans</li> +<li>1 Pound okra</li> +<li>3 Red peppers</li> +<li>1 Peck spinach</li> +<li>2 Pounds asparagus</li> +<li>6 Small beets</li> +<li>6 Ears sweet corn</li> +</ul> +<p>Scald the tomatoes by placing them in a wire basket and plunging +them into boiling water for one and a half minutes. Cold-dip them +immediately. After removing the core and stem end of the tomato, +the skin slips right off. Save all the tomato juice. Cut the +tomatoes into quarters. Put into a large pail or bucket with the +juice. Blanch the cabbage, carrots, turnip, string beans, okra and +sweet red peppers five minutes. Cold-dip. Of course you blanch and +cold-dip each product separately. Cut each vegetable after it is +blanched and cold-dipped into small cubes and add to the +tomatoes.</p> +<p>Spinach must be carefully washed to remove all grit and sand. +All greens must be washed through several waters to cleanse them +thoroughly.</p> +<p>Instead of blanching the spinach in a kettle of boiling water, +as we do the other vegetables, we steam it by placing it in a +colander over boiling water or in a regulation steamer with tightly +fitting cover, such as is used for steaming suet puddings and brown +bread. If you can with a steam-pressure canner or a pressure +cooker, then steam the spinach there. If we boiled the spinach for +fifteen or twenty minutes we would lose a quantity of the mineral +salts, the very thing we aim to get into our systems when we eat +spinach, dandelion greens, Swiss chard and other greens. After the +blanching or steaming comes the cold dip.</p> +<p>There is something about blanching asparagus, either for soups +or when canned alone, that is worth knowing. Instead of blanching +the whole stalk of asparagus for the same length of time, we use a +little discretion, giving the tougher, harder ends a full four +minutes' blanching, but allowing the tender tip ends only two +minutes. You are possibly wondering how that is done.</p> +<p>Tie the asparagus stalks in bunches and put the bunches with all +the tips standing one way on a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth +or snap rubber bands round it, and then stand the asparagus in +boiling water in an upright position for two minutes; next lay the +asparagus lengthwise in the blanching water for another two +minutes, and you have accomplished your purpose. You have given the +tougher parts two minutes' more blanching than the tender parts. +Use a deep enough kettle so the asparagus will be completely +covered when laid lengthwise. After the blanching, cold-dip the +asparagus.</p> +<p>Wash the beets. Leave two inches of the top and all the tail on +the beets while blanching. Blanch for five minutes, then cold-dip. +Next scrape off the skin, top and tail. The tops can be put right +into the soup too. Any surplus tops can be steamed with the spinach +and can be treated similarly.</p> +<p>Blanch corn on the cob five minutes. Cold-dip. Cut the corn from +the cob, cutting from tip to butt end. Add the corn to the other +vegetables. Add no water. Pack the mixed vegetables into clean +glass jars; add one level teaspoonful of salt to every jar; +partially seal; cook one hour and a half in wash-boiler or other +homemade outfit. At the end of that period remove jars from canner, +seal tight, and the work is done.</p> +<p>Of course you are interested in the cost of this soup. Most of +the ingredients came right from our garden. We had to buy the okra +and the red peppers, but I figured everything just as if I had to +buy it from the market; and on this basis, the cost of our soup +would have been only seven and a half cents a can. We canned it in +tin, using size Number Two, which is the same as pint size in glass +jars.</p> +<p>Another vegetable soup without stock, dried beans and peas being +used, is made as follows:</p> +<p>Soak six pounds of Lima beans and four pounds of dry peas over +night. Boil each thirty minutes. Blanch sixteen pounds of carrots, +six pounds of cabbage, three pounds of celery, six pounds of +turnips, four pounds of okra, one pound of onions, and four pounds +of parsley for three minutes and dip in cold water quickly. Prepare +the vegetables and chop into small cubes. Chop the onions and +celery extra fine. Mix all of them thoroughly and season to taste. +Pack in glass jars or tin cans. Fill with boiling water. Partially +seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; sixty +minutes if using water-seal outfit or five-pound steam-pressure +outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure cooker.</p> +<p>In many homes cream of tomato soup is the favorite. To make this +soup the housewife uses a tomato pulp and combines it with milk and +seasonings. You can can a large number of jars of this pulp and +have it ready for the cream soup. To make and can this pulp follow +these directions:</p> +<p><b>Tomato Pulp</b>. Place the tomatoes in a wire basket or piece +of cheesecloth and plunge into boiling water for one and a half +minutes. Plunge into cold water. Remove the skins and cores. Place +the tomatoes in a kettle and boil thirty minutes. Pass the tomato +pulp through a sieve. Pack in glass jars while hot and add a level +teaspoonful of salt per quart. Partially seal glass jars. Sterilize +twenty minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; eighteen minutes if using water-seal, or five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; fifteen minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit.</p> +<p><b>Soup Stock.</b> To make the soup stock which is the +foundation of all the stock soups, use this recipe:</p> +<p>Secure twenty-five pounds of beef hocks, joints and bones +containing marrow. Strip off the fat and meat and crack bones with +hatchet or cleaver. Put the broken bones in a thin cloth sack and +place this in a large kettle containing five gallons of cold water. +Simmer—do not boil—for six or seven hours. Do not salt +while simmering. Skim off all fat. This should make about five +gallons of stock. Pack hot in glass jars, bottles or enameled or +lacquered tin cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Sterilize forty minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; thirty minutes if using water-seal or +five-pound steam-pressure outfit; twenty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p>Soups made with soup stock are many and varied. One can utilize +the things at hand and change the distinctive flavor from year to +year. I will give you a few good specimen recipes which if followed +will give good results:</p> +<p><b>Vegetable Soup.</b> Soak a quarter pound dried Lima beans and +one pound unpolished rice for twelve hours. Cook a half pound pearl +barley for two hours. Blanch one pound carrots, one pound onions, +one medium-size potato and one red pepper for three minutes and +cold-dip. Prepare the vegetables and cut into small cubes. Mix +thoroughly Lima beans, rice, barley, carrots, onions, potato and +red pepper. Fill glass jars or the enameled tin cans three-fourths +full of the above mixture of vegetables and cereals. Make a smooth +paste of a half pound of wheat flour and blend in five gallons soup +stock. Boil three minutes and add four ounces salt. Pour this stock +over vegetables and fill cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a +water-seal or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes +if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Cream of Pea Soup.</b> Soak eight pounds of dried peas over +night. Cook until soft. Mash fine. Add the mashed peas to five +gallons of soup stock and bring to boil. Pass the boiling liquid +through a fine sieve. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour and +add paste, ten ounces of sugar and three ounces of salt to the soup +stock. Cook until soup begins to thicken. Pack in glass jars or tin +cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process +ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; eighty minutes if using water-seal outfit; seventy minutes +if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if +using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Cream of Potato Soup.</b> Boil one and a half pounds of +potatoes, sliced thin, and five gallons of soup stock for ten +minutes. Add three ounces of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper +and a half pound of butter and boil slowly for five minutes. Make +three tablespoonfuls of flour into smooth paste and add to the +above. Cook three minutes and pack in glass jars or tin cans while +hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize +ninety minutes if using a hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a water-seal outfit; +sixty-five minutes if using a five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +forty-five minutes if using a pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Bean Soup.</b> Soak three pounds of dried beans twelve hours +in cold water. Cut two pounds of ham into quarter-inch cubes and +place in a small sack. Place beans, ham and four gallons of water +in kettle and boil slowly until the beans are very soft. Remove the +ham and beans from the liquor and mash the beans fine. Return ham +and mashed beans to the liquor, add five gallons of soup stock and +seasoning, and bring to boil. Pack into jars or cans while hot. +Partially seal jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process two hours if +using hot-water-bath or condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if +using water-seal outfit; seventy-five minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; sixty minutes if using pressure cooker.</p> +<p><b>Okra Soup.</b> Slice eight pounds okra into thin slices the +round way. Blanch ten minutes and cold-dip. Boil one and a half +pounds rice for twenty-five minutes. Mix okra and rice and fill +cans or jars half full. To five gallons soup stock add five ounces +salt, a quarter teaspoonful of coriander seed and a quarter +teaspoonful of powdered cloves, and bring to boil. Fill remaining +portion of jars or cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Process two hours if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if using water-seal outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +sixty minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken-Soup Stock.</b> Place thirty pounds chicken in ten +gallons of cold water and simmer for five hours. Remove meat and +bones, then strain. Add sufficient water to make ten gallons of +stock. Fill glass jars or tin cans with hot stock. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. This stock is used to make soup +where the term "chicken-soup stock" is used. Process ninety minutes +if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if +using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken Broth With Rice.</b> For each gallon of soup stock +use twelve ounces of rice. Boil rice thirty minutes. Fill jars or +tin cans two-thirds full of rice and the remainder with soup stock. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety +minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if +using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken Gumbo.</b> Cut two pounds ham into small cubes and +boil thirty minutes. Mince three pounds chicken and chop half a +pound of onions fine. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour. +Add above to five gallons of chicken-soup stock. Then add a half +pound butter and a quarter pound salt and boil ten minutes. Next +add three ounces powdered okra mixed with one pint water. Pack into +glass jars or tin cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap +and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using +water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure +outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOMATO ACID CHECKS BACTERIA</b></p> +<p>Some women who have canned soup tell me it spoiled or tasted +"sourish and smelled sourish too." This is what we call "flat +sour." It may happen to any vegetable you can, as well as to the +soups. "Flat sour" affects peas, beans, asparagus and corn more +than other vegetables. If the vegetables have been picked for some +time and the bacteria have had a chance "to work," and you are not +exceedingly careful about your canning, you may develop "flat sour" +in the soup. If you let one little spore of this bacteria survive +all is lost. Its moist growing place is favorable to development, +particularly if not much acid is present. One little spore left in +a jar will multiply in twenty hours to some twenty millions of +bacteria. This twenty million can stand on the point of a needle, +so a can could acquire quite a large population in a short time. +Bacteria do not like acids, so it is always a good idea to have +tomatoes in your soup mixture, and get the tomatoes into the stone +crock early in the game. The tomato acid will safeguard the other +vegetables which lack acid.</p> +<p>If you are careless about the blanching and +cold-dipping—that is, not doing these full time—if you +work too slowly in getting the products into jars and then let the +full jars stand in the warm atmosphere, you are pretty sure to +develop "flat sour."</p> +<p>Place each jar in the canner as it is packed. The first jars in +will not be affected by the extra cooking. Have the water just +below the boiling point as you put in each jar. When you have the +canner full bring the water to the boiling point as quickly as +possible and begin to count cooking or sterilizing time from the +moment it does boil.</p> +<p>Some women make the mistake at the end of the cooking period of +letting the jars remain in the boiling water, standing on the false +bottom of the canner until they are cool enough to handle with no +danger of burning the hands. This slow method of cooling not only +tends to create "flat sour," but it is apt to result in +cloudy-looking jars and in mushy vegetables.</p> +<p>For this reason you should have in your equipment a lifter with +which you can lift out the hot jars without the hands touching +them. If you use a rack with wire handles this answers the same +purpose.</p> +<p>This "flat sour," which is not at all dangerous from the +standpoint of health, must not be confused with the botulinus +bacteria, which is an entirely different thing.</p> +<p>"Flat sour," perfectly harmless, appears often with +inexperienced canners. Botulinus, harmful, appears rarely. You need +not be at all alarmed about eating either "flat sour" or botulinus, +because the odor from spoiled goods is so distasteful—it +really resembles rancid cheese—that you would never get a +spoon of it to your mouth.</p> +<p>If you are debating whether this jar or that jar of soup or +vegetables is spoiled, do not <i>taste</i> the contents of the jar. +<i>Smell</i> it. Tasting might poison you if you happened on the +botulinus bacteria, which is so rare it need alarm no one; whereas +smelling is perfectly safe.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TIME-TABLE FOR SOUPS</b></p> +<br> +<h3>GRAY SOUP WITHOUT STOCK</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Peck ripe tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Scald 1½</td> +<td align='left'>Remove core and stem end.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Head cabbage<br> +1 Dozen carrots<br> +1 White turnip<br> +2 Pounds string beans<br> +1 Pound okra<br> +3 Red peppers</td> +<td align='left'>5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into cubes after blanching</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Peck spinach</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>Steam 15 minutes or until thoroughly wilted.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>4</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small pieces after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Small beets</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into slices after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Ears sweet corn</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut from cob after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Salt</td> +<td>..</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT STOCK, USING DRY LEGUMES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Pounds dried Lima beans<br> +4 Pounds dried peas</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak over night, then boil<br> +for one half hour.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>16 Pounds carrots<br> +6 Pounds cabbage<br> +3 Pounds celery<br> +6 Pounds turnips</td> +<td align='left'>3<br> +3<br> +3<br> +3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small cubes after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Pounds okra</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into slices after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pound onions</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Chop fine after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Pounds parsley Salt</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into pieces after blanching.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Stock Soups)</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>25 Pounds beef hocks, joints and bones</td> +<td align='left'>Simmer for 6 or 7 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons water</td> +<td align='left'>Should make 5 Gallons stock.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +40.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 40.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 30.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 30.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 25.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP WITH STOCK</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>¼ Pounds dried Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pound rice</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>¼ Pound pearl barley</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook 2 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pounds carrots<br> +1 Pounds onions<br> +1 Potato<br> +1 Red Pepper</td> +<td align='left'>3<br> +3<br> +3<br> +3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small cubes after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +4 Ounces salt</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour and soup stock.<br> +Boil 3 minutes and add salt<br> +Pour over vegetables and fill cans.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CREAM OF PEA SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>8 Pounds dried peas</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Soak over-night and cook until soft.<br> +Mash peas fine.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons soup stock</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Add stock and boil. Put through sieve.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour<br> +10 Ounces sugar<br> +3 Ounces salt</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour, sugar and salt<br> +and add to stock. Cook until thick.<br> +Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 80.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 70.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CREAM OF POTATO SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1½ Pounds potatoes sliced thin<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +3 Ounces salt<br> +¼ Teaspoonful pepper<br> +½ Pound butter<br> +3 Tablespoonfuls flour</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Boil potatoes and stock<br> +10 minutes.<br> +Add salt, pepper, butter and boil<br> +5 minutes. Make flour<br> +into paste and add.<br> +Cook 3 minutes and can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 65.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>BEAN SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3 Pounds dried beans</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds ham</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cut ham into ¼ inch cubes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Gallons water<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +Salt</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Boil beans, ham and water<br> +until beans are soft.<br> +Mash beans fine. Add<br> +stock and salt. Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +120.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 120.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 90.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 60.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CHICKEN SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Chicken Soups)</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>30 Pounds chicken<br> +10 Gallons cold water.<br> +Should make 10 gallons<br> +stock when finished</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Simmer 5 hours. Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CHICKEN GUMBO</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds ham</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cut ham into small cubes and boil 30 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3 Pounds chicken</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Mince chicken.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound onions</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Chop onions.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons chicken soup stock<br> +½ Pound butter<br> +¼ Pound salt<br> +3 Ounces powdered okra<br> +mixed with pint of<br> +water</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Add all this to soup stock.<br> +Add butter and salt. Boil<br> +10 minutes. Then add<br> +okra mixed with water.<br> +Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VI' id="CHAPTER_VI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> +<h3>JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND +SIRUPS</h3> +<br> +<p>For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is +fairly acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is +just a little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or +overripe fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. +This fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. +Such fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin +and are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits.</p> +<p>The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of +pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, +though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other +marmalades.</p> +<p>Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be +made into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and +lemons to them while cooking.</p> +<p>So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is +whether or not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed +over jelly that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn +the simple test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains +pectin or not is a very easy matter.</p> +<p>Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol—90 to 95 per +cent.—and add to it one tablespoonful of <i>cooked</i> juice +that has been cooled. The effect of the alcohol is to bring +together the pectin in a jelly-like mass. If a large quantity of +pectin is present it will appear in one mass or clot which may be +gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I said <i>cooked</i> juice. +It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not found in the +juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the cooked +juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice.</p> +<p>There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, +raw grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin.</p> +<p>This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but +it also gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to +juice. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous +mass or clot this indicates that you should use three-fourths as +much sugar as juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is +less than three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less +sugar. If the pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin +to make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for +flavoring ice cream or some form of cooking.</p> +<p>By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the +jelly texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be +better.</p> +<p>After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by +washing, stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an +acid-proof kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to +prevent burning—about one cup of water to every four or five +quarts of fruit. The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so +forth. With less juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough +water to cover, or follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. +Use the cores, skins and seeds; these improve the flavor and color +of the jelly.</p> +<p>Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered +kettle, stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When +the simmering point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked +wooden masher. When the fruit is tender or has a transparent +appearance, it is ready to strain.</p> +<p>The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a +large mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie +opposite corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a +flannel or felt bag for straining the juice.</p> +<p>What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When +this Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty +minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so +many housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do +this, empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving +kettle, cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then +cover, bring slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice +that drips out is called Extraction Two.</p> +<p>The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out +whether there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin +is present, you can repeat the operation and get Extraction +Three.</p> +<p>Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you +can get as many as five extractions.</p> +<p>You may say, "Why bother with extractions—why not squeeze +the juice and be done with it?" You will get clearer, +better-flavored and more glasses of jelly if you will make the +extractions than if you squeeze the jelly bag.</p> +<p>I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but +usually combine Extraction Two and Three.</p> +<p>The next step in jelly making is vitally important—that +is, how much sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is +where many housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the +same proportion of sugar to all juices.</p> +<p>To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of +sugar must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough +or unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must +be used.</p> +<p>Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in +pectin that they require equal amounts of sugar and +juice—that is, to every cup of extracted currant and grape +juice we add one cup of sugar.</p> +<p>Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup +of sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water +in the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of +juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples.</p> +<p>It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large +amount of water is added than from the juicy fruits.</p> +<p>I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the +fruit juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the +boiling, in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should +the sugar be hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the +sugar in the middle of the jelly-making process than at the +beginning or the end. Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, +so as to lose as little sugar as possible.</p> +<p>If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and +thus the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it +in a granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, +and stir occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it.</p> +<p>After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as +quickly as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent +boiling. A steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will +produce good results.</p> +<p>Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from +eight to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or +five minutes.</p> +<p>Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty +minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen +minutes.</p> +<p>The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking +thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. +It is the one sure, reliable test.</p> +<p>The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you +want a very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it +immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees.</p> +<p>If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour +the boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held +horizontally. If the sirup is done two drops will break +simultaneously from the side of the spoon.</p> +<p>Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw +a path through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and +the juice does not run together, the jellying point has been +reached.</p> +<p>When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from +the fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized +glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to +prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full.</p> +<p>Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at +one time. If new at the game make only four, because there is +danger of the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be +removed.</p> +<p>When the jellies are well set cover them with <i>hot</i>, not +merely melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs +that may fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the +clean tin or aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool +place after proper labeling.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN JELLY MAKING</b></p> +<p>1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and +contains a large amount of pectin.</p> +<p>2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so +forth.</p> +<p>3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash +berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added +if necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small +pieces; add half as much water as fruit.</p> +<p>4. Pour into dampened bag.</p> +<p>5. Drain through closely woven bag.</p> +<p>6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of +sugar to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of +pectin, the fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different +fruits. To make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold +cooked fruit juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake +gently. Allow to stand one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of +the juice forms a lump add three-fourths as much sugar as juice in +making jelly. If the precipitate—pectin—is not held +together in a lump or is less than three-fourths of the whole +volume of juice, add less sugar in proportion to juice. If less +than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to make the jelly, or can +the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and so forth.</p> +<p>7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook.</p> +<p>8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or +midway in the process.</p> +<p>9. Stir until sugar is dissolved.</p> +<p>10. Cook rapidly, but not hard.</p> +<p>11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a +clean spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from +it. If done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of +spoon. Some prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of +spoon. Better still, use thermometer.</p> +<p>12. Remove from fire and skim.</p> +<p>13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses.</p> +<p>14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a +little coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily.</p> +<p>15. Cover, label and store.</p> +<p>No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter +into consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the +amount of water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of +sugar to juice; the more sugar used, the less time needed.</p> +<br> +<p><b>JAMS AND BUTTERS</b></p> +<p>Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies.</p> +<p>1. Carefully wash berries and fruits.</p> +<p>2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not +convenient, use measuring cup.</p> +<p>3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces.</p> +<p>4. Add enough water to prevent sticking.</p> +<p>5. Stir to keep from burning.</p> +<p>6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken.</p> +<p>7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part +fruit. That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a +pound of sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup +of sugar.</p> +<p>8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently.</p> +<p>9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. +When a little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is +thick enough.</p> +<p>10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or +crystallized ginger can be added if desired.</p> +<p>11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of +the top.</p> +<p>12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and +store.</p> +<p>Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made +much as are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and +grapefruit marmalades.</p> +<p>Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and +raisins are often added to conserves.</p> +<p>Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least +three-fourths of the weight of the fruit.</p> +<p>If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or +other wax tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the +cold-pack method of canning. You may have containers with screw or +bail tops which you wish to use in this way. The following is one +recipe showing how to proceed.</p> +<p><b>Cherry Preserves</b>. Place one gallon of water in a kettle +and add ten pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen +minutes. Add twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until +product is boiling at a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in +shallow pans. Pack into glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, +not tight. Cap and tip if using enameled tin cans. If using a +hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize twenty minutes; if using a +water-seal outfit, a five-pound steam-pressure outfit or a +pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen minutes. Remove jars. +Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the joints. Wrap jars with +paper to prevent bleaching and store. When using pressure-cooker +outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during period of +sterilization.</p> +<p><b>Fruit Juices</b>. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and +delicious drink and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries +and other small fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a +cloth sack, heated for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs +freely, and allowed to drip.</p> +<p>Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the +sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of +the bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 +degrees, or until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the +cooker, and keep at this temperature one hour and a half to two +hours; or heat to 200 degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise +to the top of the water, and hold at this temperature for thirty +minutes. The hot water comes up to the neck of the bottle. Cork +without removing the cotton. If canned in jars close the jar +partly, and seal tight after cooking.</p> +<p>Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a +higher temperature injures the flavor.</p> +<p><b>Strawberry Preserves. 1.</b> Add thirty-five ounces of sugar +to one-half pint of water; bring to a boil and skim.</p> +<p>With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively +without floating and no sirup will be left over.</p> +<p>To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds +of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it +registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical +thermometer. If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is +very heavy—about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum.</p> +<p>Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of +the hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as +possible. Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not +fasten tightly.</p> +<p>Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if +possible. Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the +boiling water for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least +twenty-five minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the +conclusion of the operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap +to make sure that the seal is absolutely tight.</p> +<p><b>Recipe Number 2.</b> The following method is preferred by +some because it leaves more of the natural color in the +preserves:</p> +<p>To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add +twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour +juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook +to 222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack +and sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for +all other berries.</p> +<p>When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the +table, they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick +sirup which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a +cooling summer drink.</p> +<p><b>Strawberries—Sun Preserves.</b> Select firm ripe +berries; hull and rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a +single layer; sprinkle sugar over them. Pour over them a thick +sirup made of one quart of water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled +until very thick.</p> +<p>Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them +to stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly +glasses and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin +cans. Put the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or +seal if using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time +given below for the particular type of outfit used:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water seal, 214 degrees</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, +and test the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent +bleaching.</p> +<p>When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on +preserves, remember to keep the valve open during the +sterilizing.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING</b></p> +<p>Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a +fine flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter +apples are best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly +in the spring, add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple +juice.</p> +<p>Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple.</p> +<p>Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious +juices and shrubs for summer beverages.</p> +<p>The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 +minutes.</p> +<p>Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are +rubbed through a sieve.</p> +<p>Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good +combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and +strawberries.</p> +<p>Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, +pear and pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin.</p> +<p>One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious +jelly; currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 +to July 3.</p> +<p>Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days.</p> +<p>Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too +much sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are +satisfactory.</p> +<p>If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than +do green-as-grass gooseberries.</p> +<p>Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to +test for pectin before completing the process, to save time and +effort.</p> +<p>Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for +conserves.</p> +<p>An underripe, acid plum is best.</p> +<p>Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly.</p> +<p>Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the +fruit being used for preserving.</p> +<p>Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a +rain, for they will have absorbed so much water as to make it +difficult, without excessive boiling, to get the juice to +"jell."</p> +<p>Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. +It will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an +otherwise expensive jam "go a long way."</p> +<p>Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized +in many ways.</p> +<p>Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges.</p> +<p><b>Lemon Marmalade</b>. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are +sliced, put in kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 +hours; then boil 2 hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour +longer.</p> +<p>Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are +usually combined with grapefruit.</p> +<p>All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh +and not overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if +made from fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the +berries are still green.</p> +<p><b>CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING</b></p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>KIND OF FRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>CHARACTER OF FRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>HOW TO PREPARE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED FOR +COOKING</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT OF SUGAR NEEDED FOR +JELLYING</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>APPLES, SOUR</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash, discard any unsound portions, +cut into small pieces. Include seeds skin and core</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>APRICOTS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Not suitable for jelly making. +Excellent for jam.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Leave a few stones in for +flavor.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam use just enough water to +keep from burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of apricots for jam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BLACKBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BLUEBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making; make a +sweet jelly</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CRANBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CHERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pit the cherries for jam</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, use just enough water to +keep from burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of cherries for jam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CRAB APPLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Same as apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CURRANTS, RED</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Do not remove stems for jelly</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +currants</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CURRANTS, BLACK</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Better for jam</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Remove stems</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Enough water to keep from +sticking</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of currants</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GRAPES, UNRIPE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash, do not stem; use stems</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +grapes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GOOSEBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>"Head and tail," using scissors</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +gooseberries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PEACHES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Peaches, apples and raisins make a +delicious conserve</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Just enough water to keep from +burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PINEAPPLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Prepare as for table use</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jams, enough water to keep from +burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PLUMS, GREENGAGE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Suitable for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Mash fruit and remove stems; cook +stones with fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 quart of water for each peck of +fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PLUMS, DAMSON</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Suitable for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wipe and pick over; prick several +times with large pin</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 quart of water for every peck of +plums</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>QUINCES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making, if not +too ripe. If so, add crab apple</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cut out the blossom end. Mash and +cut in quarters</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +quinces</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RASPBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash them thoroughly, but do not let +them soak in the water</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RHUBARB</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making. Better for jam.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash and cut into small pieces</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, half as much water as +fruit.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>STRAWBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash and remove hulls.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, just enough water to keep +from burning.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of pulp.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>CITRUS FRUITS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>ORANGES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making and +marmalade</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For orange marmalade weigh oranges +slice cross- wise with sharp knife as thin as possible; remove +seed.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cook in water to cover.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Three-quarters their weight in +sugar.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>LEMONS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making and to +supply pectin to other fruits</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For marmalade 9 oranges and 6 lemons +are a good combination</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>8 pounds of sugar</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GRAPEFRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Best for marmalades</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Grapefruit is sliced very thin, seed +removed.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Three-quarters their weight in +sugar.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>WILD FRUITS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, BARBERRIES, +GRAPES, BEACH PLUMS.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All excellent for jelly making.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Prepare as other fruits.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Just enough water to keep from +burning.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VII' id="CHAPTER_VII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> +<h3>MEAT</h3> +<br> +<p>Canned meat adds variety to the diet in the winter-time and +makes a pleasant change from the cured and smoked meats. You put +meat into jars in the raw state and extend the sterilizing period +or you can cook the meat partially or completely and then sterilize +for a shorter period of time. Of course a reliable method of +canning meat must be used, such as the cold-pack process, where the +sterilizing is done in the tin or jar in either boiling water or +steam under pressure. We usually recommend the partial cooking, +roasting or boiling of the meat before canning especially for +beginners. If you are a beginner in the business of cold-pack +canning then by all means cook the meat before putting it in cans. +If you have canned peas, beans and corn successfully for years then +you are ready for all kinds of raw meat canning.</p> +<p>To save criticism of the cold-pack method of canning meat and to +guard against any danger from eating poorly prepared and improperly +sterilized meat we do not urge beginners to experiment with meat, +although the meat can be safely canned by any one whether new at +the canning game or a veteran in it if directions are carefully +followed. But it is the big "If" that we have to watch.</p> +<p>Many farmers and farmerettes are canning meats of all kinds all +over the country and there is never a can lost. We need more meat +canning done at home and you can do it if you will practice +cleanliness in all your work and follow directions.</p> +<p>The fear of getting botulinus bacteria from eating canned meat +is just a "bug-a-boo." It should be clearly understood that +botulism is one of the very rare maladies. The chances for getting +it by eating canned goods, say the experts, is rather less than the +chances from dying of lockjaw every time you scratch your finger. +To regard every can as a source of botulism is worse than regarding +every dog as a source of hydrophobia. Moreover, for the very timid, +there is the comforting certainty that the exceedingly slight +danger is completely eliminated by re-cooking the canned food for a +short time before eating it.</p> +<p>There are always a few cases of illness traceable to bad food, +not only to canned food but to spoiled meats, fish, bad milk, +oysters and a number of things. There are also cases of injury and +death by street accidents, but we do not for that reason stop using +the streets. If you put good meat into the can and do your canning +right then you will have good results. Never put into a can meat +that is about ready to spoil, thinking thereby to "save it."</p> +<p>If you want to be absolutely sure, even if the jar of meat seems +perfectly fresh when it is opened, you can re-cook the meat, thus +insuring yourself against any possibility of botulinus poisoning. +So you see, there is nothing at all alarming about that frightful +sounding word "botulinus." Using fresh products, doing the canning +properly and reheating before serving eliminates all danger.</p> +<p>For canning meat, tin cans are in most respects superior to +glass, as they eliminate all danger of breakage, preserve the meat +just as well as glass, and by excluding the light prevent any +change of color. If you use glass jars be sure to get the best +brand of jar rubbers on the market. This is very important.</p> +<p>If, as I have said, you are a beginner—cook the meat first +by frying, roasting, broiling, baking or stewing—just as you +would prepare it for immediate use. The meat is usually seasoned +according to taste and is cooked until thoroughly heated through, +before putting in the cans. Do not cook until tender as that will +be too long with the additional sterilizing. If too tender it will +fall apart and be unappetizing although perfectly good. See that +nothing is wasted in the canning. If you are canning a young steer +or a calf you would go about it as follows:</p> +<p>Select the meat that you would ordinarily want. Slice the meat +wanted for steak. What is not suited for either of these can be +used for stews, or be put through the meat grinder and made into +sausage meat, formed into little cakes, fried and canned. What meat +is left clinging to all bones will be utilized when the bones are +boiled for soup stock. The sinews, the head and the feet, after +being cleaned may be used for soup stock also.</p> +<p>The liver should be soaked in water, the coarse veins cut out +and the liver skinned and prepared any way that is desired before +canning it or it may be made into liver sausage. The heart can be +used for goulash. The kidneys should be soaked in salt water, split +open and the little sack removed; then they can be either stewed or +fried and then canned. The sweetbreads may be prepared in various +ways and then canned.</p> +<p>The brain is soaked in water to remove the blood, and the +membrane enclosing it is removed. It can be fried or prepared in +any favorite way and then canned. The ox tail is used for soup. The +tongue is soaked in water, scrubbed, cleaned, salted, boiled, +skinned and packed in cans with some soup stock added.</p> +<p>If you do not care to use the head for soup stock and if it +comes from a young animal, split it open and soak in cold water. +Use a brush and scrub thoroughly. Remove the eyes and mucous +membrane of the nostrils and then boil it. After it is boiled, +remove all meat and make a mock turtle stew or ragout. Prepare the +tripe as for table use and then can.</p> +<p>After the soup stock is made and the bones are cracked for a +second cooking, the bones need not be thrown away. You can dry +them, run them through a bone crusher and either feed them to the +chickens or use them for fertilizer. In this way not a particle of +the dressed animal is wasted.</p> +<p>Here are a few ways to utilize the cuts that are really +"left-overs."</p> +<br> +<p><b>GOULASH</b></p> +<ul> +<li>2 Pounds of meat scraps which can consist of beef, veal or +pork.</li> +<li>2 Ounces of any fat.</li> +<li>2 Onions chopped fine.</li> +<li>1 Stalk celery, cut in small pieces.</li> +<li>2 Carrots.</li> +<li>2 Cups tomatoes either canned or fresh.</li> +<li>1 Bay leaf.</li> +<li>6 Whole cloves.</li> +<li>6 Peppercorns.</li> +<li>1 Blade mace or a little thyme or both.</li> +<li>A little flour.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoonful chopped parsley.</li> +<li>Salt and paprika to taste.</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut the meat into one inch squares and roll in flour. Melt the +fat in the frying pan, add the vegetables (onions, celery, carrots) +and brown lightly: add the meat and brown. Stir with a spoon or +fork to prevent burning. When browned empty into a pan.</p> +<p>Put the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, mace and thyme into a +cheesecloth bag and add to the meat, add tomatoes. Cover with soup +stock or water and simmer 45 minutes if it is going to be canned. +If for immediate use, 2 hours will be necessary to thoroughly cook +it.</p> +<p>Remove the spices, season with salt, paprika and the chopped +parsley. You can add Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce if desired. +Use only small quantities as these sauces are very strong in their +distinctive flavor. Put hot mixture into cans and sterilize.</p> +<p>If the different spices are not at hand a good goulash can be +made by using the meat, fat, onions, tomatoes, flour, salt and +pepper and omitting the rest of the recipe.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIVER SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>Beef, veal, or hog liver. Remove the membrane and cut away the +large blood vessels. Soak in water 1 to 2 hours to draw out blood. +Boil until done. When cooled put through a food chopper or grate +finely. Take half as much boiled fat pork as liver. Divide this fat +into two portions; chop one portion into one-quarter inch cubes; +pass the other portion through the food chopper; mix all together +thoroughly; add salt, ground cloves, pepper, and a little grated +onion to taste. A little thyme and marjoram may be added to suit +taste. (For a liver weighing 1½ pounds add ¾ pounds +fat pork, 3 to 4 teaspoonfuls salt, ½ teaspoonful cloves, +½ teaspoonful pepper, 1 small onion, ¼ teaspoonful +thyme, and pinch of marjoram.) This mixture is stuffed into large +casings. (If no casings are available, make casings of clean white +muslin.) Cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 +minutes. Pack into cans, fill in with the water in which the +sausages were boiled. Sterilize.</p> +<p>This liver sausage may also be made from the raw liver and raw +pork, but in that case the sterilizing is for a longer period, as +the time-table indicates. This recipe is recommended by the United +States Department of Agriculture.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HEAD CHEESE</b></p> +<p>Cut a hog's head into four pieces. Remove the brains, ears, +skin, snout and eyes. Cut off the fattest parts for lard. Put the +lean and bony parts to soak over night in cold water in order to +extract the blood and dirt. When the head is cleaned put it over +the fire to boil, using water enough to cover it. Boil until the +meat separates readily from the bones. Then remove it from the fire +and pick out all the bones. Drain off the liquor, saving a part of +it for future use. Chop the meat up finely with a chopping knife. +Return it to the kettle and pour on enough of the liquor to cover +the meat. Let it boil slowly for fifteen minutes to a half-hour. +Season to taste with salt and pepper just before removing it from +the fire. Bay leaves, a little ground cloves and allspice may be +added and boiled a short time in the soup. Pack while hot in cans +to within ½ inch of top. Sterilize. This head cheese is +always served cold.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CORNED BEEF</b></p> +<p>After beef has been properly corned for three weeks, remove the +meat from the brine. Soak for two hours in clear water, changing +water once. Place in a wire basket and boil slowly for half an +hour. Remove from the boiling water, plunge into cold water, and +remove gristle, bone and excessive fat. Cut into small pieces and +pack closely into cans. Add no salt and proceed as in other +canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED PORK</b></p> +<p>After the animal has been killed, cool quickly and keep the pork +cool for at least 24 hours. Can only lean portions, using the fat +to make lard. Place meat in a wire basket or cheesecloth and boil +30 minutes, or roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Cut into small +sections and pack closely into cans. Add salt and proceed with +remainder of process.</p> +<p>Other pieces of beef and pork: Hamburg steak, sausage, venison, +squirrel, raccoon, opossum, lamb, are canned as follows:</p> +<p>After cleaning, season and fry, roast, stew, or bake in oven as +though preparing for serving directly on the table. Cook until meat +is about three fourths done. Pack while hot into sanitary tin cans +or glass jars. Pour over the meat the hot liquids, gravies, +dressings, etc., or hot water. Add salt and proceed as in any other +cold-pack canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO CAN POULTRY AND GAME WITH THE BONES REMOVED</b></p> +<p>Kill bird and draw immediately; wash carefully and cool; then +cut into convenient sections. Boil until the meat can be removed +from the bones; remove from the boiling liquid and take out all +bones; pack closely into glass jars or enameled cans; fill jars +with the hot liquid after it has been concentrated one half; add 1 +level teaspoonful salt to every quart of meat for seasoning; put +rubbers and top of jars in place but not tight. If using enameled +cans completely seal. Sterilize the length of time given in the +<a href='#canning_meat'>time-table on page 108</a> of this book. +After the sterilizing remove the jars; tighten the covers if glass +was used; invert to cool and test joints. Wrap with paper to +prevent bleaching.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FRIED SPRING CHICKEN</b></p> +<p>After cleaning and preparing the chickens, season and fry as +though for serving directly on the table. Cook until the meat is +about three-fourths done. If a whole spring chicken, break the neck +and both legs and fold around body of chicken. Roll up tight, tie a +string around the chicken and drop this hot, partially fried +product into sanitary tin cans or glass jars. A quart tin can (No. +3) will hold two to four small chickens. Pour liquid from the +griddle or frying pan into the can over the chicken. Proceed, as in +any other canning, with the sealing, sterilizing and removing of +the jars. Chicken fries canned in the late fall preserve the meat +at the most delicious stage and furthermore we avoid the expense of +feeding the chickens throughout the winter.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO CAN COCKERELS</b></p> +<p>When cockerels reach the point in their growth where it is no +longer profitable to feed them, and when they are wanted for home +use during the winter months they should be canned. This method of +handling the cockerel not only saves money by cutting down the feed +bill, but it places in the pantry or cellar the means of a +delicious chicken dinner at a time of the year when the price of +poultry is high.</p> +<p>The bird should not be fed for at least twenty-four hours before +killing. It should be killed by the approved method and picked dry. +When the feathers have been removed and the pin feathers drawn the +bird should be cooled rapidly. This rapid cooling after killing is +essential to a good flavor in canned meat. As soon as the bird has +been properly cooled it should be singed and washed carefully with +a brush.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CUTTING UP AND DRAWING CHICKENS</b></p> +<p>Mr. George Farrell, a most expert canner, tells us how to go +about this job of canning chicken.</p> +<p>In preparing the bird for canning, care should be taken in +drawing it so that the contents of the digestive tract do not come +in contact with the meat.</p> +<p>1. Remove the tops of the wings, cutting at the first joint.</p> +<p>2. Remove the wings.</p> +<p>3. Remove the foot, cutting at the knee joint.</p> +<p>4. Remove the leg, cutting at the hip or saddle joint.</p> +<p>5. Cut the removed portion of the leg into two parts at the +joint.</p> +<p>6. Place the bird so the back of the head is toward the +operator, cut through the neck bone with a sharp knife but do not +cut the windpipe or gullet.</p> +<p>7. With the index finger separate the gullet and windpipe from +the skin of the neck.</p> +<p>8. Cut through the skin of the neck.</p> +<p>9. With a pointed knife cut through the skin from the upper part +of the neck, thus separated, to the wing.</p> +<p>10. Leave the head attached to the gullet and windpipe and +loosen these from the neck down as far as the crop.</p> +<p>11. With a sharp pointed knife cut around the shoulder blade, +pull it out of position and break it.</p> +<p>12. Find the white spots on the ribs and cut through the ribs on +these white spots.</p> +<p>13. Cut back to the vent; cut around it, and loosen.</p> +<p>14. Begin at the crop and remove the digestive tract from the +bird, pulling it back toward the vent.</p> +<p>15. Remove the lungs and kidneys with the point of a knife.</p> +<p>16. Cut off the neck close to the body.</p> +<p>17. Cut through the backbone at the joint or just above the +diaphragm.</p> +<p>18. Remove the oil sack.</p> +<p>19. Separate the breast from the backbone by cutting through on +the white spots.</p> +<p>20. Cut the fillet from each side of the breastbone.</p> +<p>21. Cut in sharp at the point of the breastbone, turning the +knife and cutting away the wishbone with the meat. Bend in the +bones of the breastbone.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING CHICKEN</b></p> +<p>Use a one quart jar. Caution: Do not pack the giblets with the +meat.</p> +<p>1. Have the jar hot.</p> +<p>2. Pack the saddle with a thigh inside.</p> +<p>3. Pack the breastbone with a thigh inside.</p> +<p>4. Pack the backbone and ribs with a leg inside.</p> +<p>5. Pack the legs large end downward, alongside the +breastbone.</p> +<p>6. Pack the wings.</p> +<p>7. Pack the wishbone.</p> +<p>8. Pack the fillets.</p> +<p>9. Pack the neck-bone.</p> +<p>10. Pour on boiling water to within one inch of the top; add a +level teaspoonful of salt; place the rubber and cap in position, +partially seal, and sterilize for the length of time given below +for the particular type of outfit used:</p> +Water bath, home made or commercial (pint or quart jars) 1 hour<br> +Water seal, 214° 3 hours<br> +5 pounds steam-pressure 2 hours<br> +10 to 15 pounds steam-pressure 1 hour<br> +<p>Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. +Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PIGEONS</b></p> +<p><i>Young</i> pigeons. Dress pigeons, wash well, and roast for 30 +minutes basting frequently. Some pieces of fat bacon put over the +breasts will prevent them getting too dry.</p> +<p><i>Old</i> pigeons. Dress, wash, and fry pigeons.</p> +<p>Brown some onions in the fat with the pigeons, using a pound of +onions to a dozen birds. Cover with hot water after pigeons and +onions are a golden brown; simmer until the meat is tender and can +be removed from the bones. Add from time to time boiling water, if +necessary, in order to keep the birds covered. When tender, take +meat from bones. Return the meat to the liquor, salt to taste and +pack while boiling into cans or jars, fill with liquor to within +one-half inch of top.</p> +<p>All small game birds may be canned like pigeons. Blackbirds may +be treated like pigeons. They make an excellent stew.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PLAIN CANNING OF TENDER COTTON-TAILS OR TWICE-SKINNED +JACK-RABBITS</b></p> +<p>1. Blanch in boiling water until the meat is white.</p> +<p>2. Cold dip.</p> +<p>3. Pack tightly in sterilized jars.</p> +<p>4. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt to quart.</p> +<p>5. Adjust rubber and lid.</p> +<p>6. Sterilize in hot water bath for three hours.</p> +<p>7. Remove from bath and complete the seal.</p> +<p>Rabbit meat thus canned, may be served in various appetizing +ways.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RABBIT SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>For rabbit sausage and mince-meat only the backs and legs of the +carcass are used, discarding the sinews.</p> +<p>Grind together equal parts of rabbit and fat pork (or at least +¼ fat pork). The pork may be salt pork if all salt is +omitted from the mixture.</p> +<p>To every ten pounds of the above add 6 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 +teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sage. Mix +thoroughly. Shape in flat cakes and fry till nicely browned. Pack +tightly in jars, pour over the fat in which the sausage was fried, +and sterilize.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RABBIT MINCE-MEAT</b></p> +<p>Rabbit mince-meat is used a great deal on the plains and large +quantities of it are canned. The mince-meat may be made by simply +substituting the rabbit meat for beef in your favorite recipe. The +following is an inexpensive recipe:</p> +<ul> +<li>1 Cup of rabbit meat which has been parboiled in salted water +and drained, then chopped finely.</li> +<li>1 Cup chopped apple.</li> +<li>½ Cup finely chopped suet.</li> +<li>½ Cup seeded raisins.</li> +<li>½ Cup currants.</li> +<li>1 Cup molasses or syrup.</li> +<li>2 Tablespoonfuls sugar.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoon cider, lemon juice, fruit juice or vinegar.</li> +<li>¼ Cup chopped watermelon pickles or green tomato +pickles.</li> +<li>1 Teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg.</li> +<li>1 Teaspoon of salt.</li> +<li>½ Teaspoon cloves, mace or other spice.</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix together all ingredients except the meat, add the meat broth +and simmer for about 1 hour. Add the meat. Pour into jars, and +sterilize. Remove and seal.</p> +<br> +<p>STEPS IN CANNING MEAT AND GAME</p> +<p>For all meat, poultry or game canning the following general +instructions should be kept in mind.</p> +<p>1. Sterilize the jars, caps and rubbers.</p> +<p>2. Grade the meat for size.</p> +<p>3. Cut up into convenient portions for cooking or canning.</p> +<p>4. Sauté, fry or bake, broil or stew as desired. This +step can be omitted if you are an experienced canner.</p> +<p>5. Pack in sterilized, hot jars or tin cans.</p> +<p>6. Add 1 level teaspoonful salt per quart of meat for seasoning +if not already seasoned.</p> +<p>7. If glass jars put on rubber and seal, not too tight. Seal tin +cans.</p> +<p>8. Process in boiling water or steam under pressure.</p> +<p>9. Remove, completely seal the jar.</p> +<p>10. Invert to cool and test the joint.</p> +<p>11. Label and store.</p> +<br> +<p>If you can in tin use the enamel or lacquered cans. A slight +amount of water in the bottom of the jars of prepared meat will +insure quicker sterilization of the air remaining in the jar. Where +meat has been stewed the liquor can be poured into the jar for +filling. If you use a steam-pressure cooker outfit of course the +time of cooking will be much shorter than if you use a wash-boiler +or some other homemade outfit. If you cook in boiling water we call +that the water-bath method.</p> +<p>The following data will be of interest to those who contemplate +canning meat.</p> +<p>Hog on foot—weight 500.</p> +<p>Liver, heart and a part of the ribs were eaten at the time of +butchering, therefore, not canned. The remainder of the ribs canned +six No. 3 cans:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ham</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Shoulder</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Roast</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sausage</td> +<td align='left'>26, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hash</td> +<td align='left'>4, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gravy (which is also called stock)</td> +<td align='left'>5, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The sausage weighed 52 lbs. before it was canned, making 2 lbs. +to the can.</p> +<p>There were 200 lbs. of fat for lard. After it was rendered there +were 176 lbs. of lard and 20 lbs. of cracklings.</p> +<a name='canning_meat' id="canning_meat"></a> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TIME TO STERILIZE PRODUCTS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING WATER-SEAL OUTFIT AT +214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING STEAM PRESSURE 5 +POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING PRESSURE COOKER 15 +POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>PARTIALLY COOKED MEAT OF +ALL KINDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Roast beef<br> +Corned beef<br> +Sweetbreads<br> +Tongue<br> +Brains<br> +Headcheese<br> +Spareribs<br> +Kidneys<br> +Sausages and<br> +other meats<br> +Rabbits<br> +Pigeon<br> +Chicken<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>UNCOOKED OR RAW MEAT</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Beef<br> +Pork<br> +Veal and all<br> +other meats<br> +Poultry and game<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>All meat stocks<br> +with or without<br> +vegetables and<br> +cereals<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>NOTE.—This time-table is for No. 2 and No. 3 tin cans or +pint and quart glass jars. If larger cans or jars are used more +time must be allowed for the sterilizing. If canning in tin, +scratch on the can at the time of sealing the initial of the +contents. For instance—S.R. means spareribs; G. means +goulash; R.B. means roast beef. You can make out your list and mark +accordingly.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VIII' id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> +<h3>FISH</h3> +<br> +<p>People in some sections of the country are interested in canning +mountain trout and others live where there is an abundant supply of +either fresh-water fish or salt-water fish. Heretofore we have been +wasteful and lax about the fish supply. But as we have learned to +can vegetables and meats so we are going to learn to can fish. Fish +is really canned the same in every step after preparation as peas +and corn are canned.</p> +<p>In order to have a good product, fish must be fresh when canned. +No time should be lost in handling the fish after being caught. +Putrefaction starts rapidly, and the fish must be handled promptly. +The sooner it is canned after being taken from lake, stream or +ocean, the better. Never attempt to can any fish that is stale.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PREPARATION OF FISH FOR CANNING</b></p> +<p>As soon as fish are caught it is advisable to kill them with a +knife and allow the blood to run out. Scale fish. This is easily +done if the fish is dipped in boiling water. For canning, most +varieties of fish need not be skinned. If the fish is very large +and coarse, the large back fin may be cut out and the backbone +removed, but with most varieties this is unnecessary. Cut off the +head and tail, being careful to leave no more meat than necessary +on the parts removed. Remove the entrails and the dark membrane +that in some fish (e.g., mullets) covers the abdominal cavity. +Thoroughly clean the inside. The head may be cleaned and used for +fish chowder.</p> +<p>If you wish to be sure that all blood is drawn out before +canning, place the fish in a brine made of one ounce of salt to one +quart of water. Allow the fish to soak from 10 minutes to 1 hour +according to the thickness of the fish. Never use this brine but +once. If the meat of the fish is very soft or loose, it may be +hardened by soaking in a brine (strong enough to float an Irish +potato) for from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the thickness +of the pieces and the softness of the flesh.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING THE FISH</b></p> +<p>1. Remove the fish from the brine where it has been placed in +order to draw out all the blood and to harden the texture of the +fish.</p> +<p>2. Drain well.</p> +<p>3. Cut into can lengths.</p> +<p>4. Place fish in a piece of cheesecloth or in a wire basket and +blanch in <i>boiling water</i> from three to five minutes. Three +minutes for the soft flesh fish, such as suckers, crappies, +whitefish. Fish with a firmer flesh, as pike, muskalonge and +sunfish require 5 minutes blanching. The blanching removes the +strong fish flavor and cleans the outside of the fish.</p> +<p>5. Cold-dip the fish by plunging into cold water immediately. +This makes the flesh firm.</p> +<p>6. Pack in hot jars or cans to within ½ inch from top. +Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Put on a good rubber and +partially seal the jar, completely seal tin cans.</p> +<p>7. Place jars or cans in canner and process in <i>boiling</i> +water for three hours. Three hours sterilization will insure the +keeping of all varieties of fish, providing fresh products are used +and the blanching and other work is carefully done. If canning with +a steam-pressure canner or a pressure cooker sterilize for one hour +and a half under 10 to 15 lbs. pressure.</p> +<p>8. At the end of the sterilizing period cool the jars quickly +after sealing completely. The tin cans may be cooled by immersing +them in cold water.</p> +<p>9. Store for future use.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SOFTENING OF BONES IN FISH</b></p> +<p>This can be done satisfactorily under pressure. The bones of +fish are composed of large quantities of harmless lime, bound by a +matrix of collagen, which is insoluble under ordinary conditions. +When subjected to a high temperature under pressure this collagen +is converted into gelatin and dissolved, leaving the bones soft and +friable and even edible. Bony fish, such as herring and shad, which +are too small to use otherwise are greatly improved when subjected +to steam under pressure.</p> +<p>The bones in herring are softened in 37 minutes at a temperature +of 240 degrees; shad in 1 hour; flounder 1 hour. Other fish are +fully cooked and the bones softened in times approximately +proportionate to the size of the bones.</p> +<p>The following table was made after many experiments and gives +the time required to soften the bones in many common species of +fish.</p> +<p>The term "softening" means the point in cooking when the small +bones, ribs, etc., are soft, but when the large vertebrae are not +yet sufficiently soft to be consumed along with the meat. In some +of the larger fishes where the large bones could scarcely be eaten, +even if they were softened, it would appear to be a waste of time +and fuel to carry them to a point of complete cooking, and in such +cases it ought to be sufficient to soften the small bones and +sterilize the contents of the can. For such a purpose, the +"softening" rather than the "soft" point, may be used.</p> +<p>The time periods are measured from the point when the given +pressure and temperature are reached (at the top of the cooker) to +the time when the heat is shut off. The heating-up and cooling-off +period of time are therefore not included. The fish were salted, +but no water was added.</p> +<p>Samples of fish canned during the course of these experiments +were kept six weeks at room temperature (about 68° F.) and were +then incubated at 98° F. for 48 hrs. All were sterile.</p> +<b>TIME REQUIRED TO SOFTEN THE BONES OF VARIOUS SPECIES OF FISH IN +QUART JARS OR NO. 3 TIN CANS, 10 LBS. PRESSURE, 240° F.</b> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>WEIGHT<br> +(LBS.)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>SOFTENING<br> +(MINUTES)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>SOFT<br> +(MINUTES)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BLACK BASS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-6<br> +¾ to 1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100<br> +100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120<br> +110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BLUEFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-9<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100<br> +90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BUTTERFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>CATFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2<br> +¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>CERO</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10-13</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>COD</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-16<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>FLOUNDER</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1-1¾<br> +½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HADDOCK</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3-5<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HALIBUT</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50-90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HICKORY SHAD</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>KINGFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>LEMON SOLE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2½-3½<br> +¾-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>MACKEREL</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>MACKEREL, SPANISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>PERCH, WHITE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>PERCH, YELLOW</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>POLLACK</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-7½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SALMON</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>13-19</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SEA BASS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SQUETEAGUE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2½-4<br> +¾-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SMELTS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large, per lb.<br> +Small, per lb.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-7<br> +15-20</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SNAPPER, RED</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10-15<br> +5-6</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110<br> +90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120<br> +100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SUCKER</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>TILEFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-12</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>WHITING</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<p><b>FRIED FISH</b></p> +<p>1. Clean the fish and remove entrails. Split along the back and +remove backbone.</p> +<p>2. Place in brine strong enough to float an Irish potato. Allow +fish to remain in this brine from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to +the thickness of the flesh. This draws out the blood and hardens +the meat.</p> +<p>3. Draw, wipe dry.</p> +<p>4. Cut in pieces that can go through jar or can openings.</p> +<p>5. Roll in cornmeal or other flour, dip into beaten egg and roll +in flour again.</p> +<p>6. Then put into frying basket and fry in deep fat until nicely +browned, or it can be sautéd in bacon or other fat until +well browned.</p> +<p>7. Drain well by placing pieces on coarse paper to absorb +excessive fat.</p> +<p>8. Pack into hot jars or enameled tin cans.</p> +<p>9. Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Add no liquid.</p> +<p>10. Partially seal glass jars. Completely seal tin cans.</p> +<p>11. Process 3 hours in hot water bath outfit. Process 1½ +hours in steam pressure (10 to 15 lbs. pressure).</p> +<p>12. Remove from canner. Seal glass jars. Cool quickly as +possible.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BAKED FISH</b></p> +<p>Prepare and bake fish same as for table use until half done. +Pack in hot jars, add salt and sterilize three hours in +hot-water-bath outfit or 1½ hours in steam pressure or +pressure cooker, 10 to 15 lbs. pressure.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MISCELLANEOUS FISH</b></p> +<p>Rub the fish inside and out with a mixture made as follows: to +50 pounds fish, mix 2½ pounds salt, 2½ pounds brown +sugar and 2½ ounces saltpeter. Let the fish stand in a cool +place for 48 to 60 hours with the mixture on, then wash and drain. +Fill into glass jars or enamel lined tin cans and add the following +sauce until cans are nearly filled: ¼ pound whole black +pepper, 1½ pounds salt, 1 pound of onions chopped fine, +½ ounce bay leaves, ¼ pound whole cloves, 2 quarts +cider vinegar and 25 quarts of water. Soak the pepper, cloves and +bay leaves for 48 hours in the vinegar. Put the water, salt and +onions in a kettle. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes, then add +the vinegar and spices. Let boil for one minute. Strain and it is +ready for use.</p> +<p>Sterilize for 3 hours in hot-water-bath outfit.</p> +<p>Sterilize for 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure +cooker (10 to 15 lbs. pressure).</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED FISH IN OIL</b></p> +<p>Rub fish with salt, brown sugar and saltpeter as above directed. +Wash and dry thoroughly in the sun. Spread on wire screens and dip +in oil heated to a temperature of 300 degrees. Use a strap handle +plunge thermometer to determine heat of oil. Cottonseed oil may be +used for this purpose, although olive oil is best. As soon as the +fish are cool enough to handle, pack tightly in cans, filling up +with the hot oil.</p> +<p>Sterilize 3 hours in hot-water-bath-outfit; 1½ hours in +steam pressure or pressure cooker (10 to 15 lbs.).</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED FISH IN TOMATO SAUCE</b></p> +<p>Handle same as specified under "Another Formula for +Miscellaneous Fish," except pour in the following sauce instead of +pepper, cloves, onions, etc.: Ten gallons of tomato pulp (mashed +tomatoes and juice with cores, seeds and skins removed); 1 gallon +cider vinegar, 1 pint Worcestershire sauce; 2½ pounds red +sweet peppers; 2½ pounds sugar, 2 cups salt, 2 pounds onions +(chopped fine); 1 pound West India peppers and 1 ounce Saigon +cinnamon. The fish are processed same as "Fish in Oil." Enamel +lined cans or glass jars must be used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FISH CHOWDER</b></p> +<p>The cleaned heads of any fish, the backbones cut out of large +fish with what meat adheres to them and all other fish scraps may +be used for fish chowder. Put all these parts in cold water (to +cover) and cook until all the meat can be easily removed from the +bones. Pick all the meat from the bones, strain the fish liquor and +return it with the picked fish meat to the kettle. Add the +following ingredients: To every two pounds of fish picked from +bones and the liquor in which fish was cooked add 6 onions, diced +or sliced thin; 6 potatoes, diced or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls +fat; 1 teaspoonful paprika; 2 teaspoonfuls salt or salt to +taste.</p> +<p>Cook vegetables, fat and seasonings until vegetables are half +done. Pack hot in cans and sterilize same as all other fish. When +the chowder is opened, heat and add milk according to taste.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FISH ROE</b></p> +<p>For canning be sure to use roe of freshly caught fish and only +such roe as is known to be good to eat. The roe of some fishes, +such as the garfish, is not eaten.</p> +<p>Clean the roe by removing the shreds and strings adhering to it +and wash well in cold water, being careful not to break the roe. +Soak for 2 hours in a brine made of 6 quarts of water and 6 ounces +of salt. Drain and pack in hot glass jars or enameled tin cans. Can +for the same length of time as other fish.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OYSTERS</b></p> +<p>Be sure all oysters that are to be canned are absolutely fresh, +have not "soured" and contain no spoiled oysters. Oysters are +opened by hand. All oysters should be rejected that have partly +open shells, as this is a sign that the oyster is dead and +consequently not fit to eat.</p> +<p>Rinse the oysters to prevent any pieces of shell or grit from +getting into the cans. Blanch 5 minutes. Cold-dip. If the canned +oysters are to be sold it is required by law to mark on each can +the net weight of solids or meat exclusive of liquids.</p> +<p>There have been a number of standard grades of oysters +recognized on the Baltimore market. They are given as follows: +"Standard Oysters" (four kinds).</p> +<p>No. 1 cans, containing respectively 1½, 3, 4 and 5 ounces +of meat, after being processed in the cans.</p> +<p>No. 2 cans, containing respectively 3, 6, 8 and 10 ounces of +meat.</p> +<p>"Select" and "Extra Select" Oysters contain respectively 6 +ounces and 12 ounces for No. 1 and No. 2 cans. The above are the +net weights of meats only that have been drained over a strainer +with a wire bottom of ½ inch mesh. These are the only grades +that have so far been recognized by the trade. An even balance +scale, with one platform for graduated weights and another for +articles to be weighed, is used to weigh oysters or clams. It is +suggested that those who are going to can clams or oysters find out +from their prospective customers just what requirements are as to +weights and then make their pack meet the occasion. Under no +circumstances is it advisable to make any misstatements or misbrand +in any respect.</p> +<p>After oysters have been packed in the can, fill with boiling +brine made of 5 quarts of water to ¼ lb. salt to within +½ inch from top of can. Sterilize as other fish.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLAMS</b></p> +<p>If clams are received in a muddy condition, it is advisable, +though not necessary to wash them before opening. After opening, +discard broken or discolored clams. Do not can any clams unless +absolutely fresh. Blanch. Cold-dip. Weigh out the amount of solid +meat, after draining, that is to go into each can. Weigh and label +just as oysters are weighed and labeled.</p> +<p>Fill can to within ½ inch from the top with boiling brine +made of 5 gallons of water and 1 pound of salt. Sterilize.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLAM BROTH AND CHOWDER</b></p> +<p>Place the clams, after being opened, in a kettle with enough +cold water to cover. Add a few stalks of celery. Boil for 10 +minutes. Season with salt, and pepper to taste and add 1 tablespoon +butter to every 50 or 60 large clams. Can. Clam chowder can be made +according to any recipe and then canned.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRIMPS</b></p> +<p>Shrimps when first caught are a grayish white color. They are +very delicate and spoil quickly if allowed to stand for any length +of time in a warm place. There are two general methods of canning +shrimp—the "dry pack" and "wet pack." Nearly all the trade +now calls for "wet pack" because the other always has a rather +offensive odor and the meat is never so fresh and sweet of flavor +as the "wet pack." Canned shrimp is very pleasing to the taste and +is preferred by many to lobster for salads and stews.</p> +<p><b>Wet Pack.</b> Medium sizes are preferable as very large +shrimps are apt to be too tough and too dry. Put the shrimps into a +wire scalding basket and lower into a boiling hot salt water +solution made by mixing one pound of salt to each gallon of water. +Allow the shrimps to remain in this bath for about five minutes, +then remove and drain thoroughly.</p> +<p>Peel and remove viscera (entrails). The boiling and the salt +will harden the meat and make the peeling comparatively easy. Pack +into enameled tin cans or glass jars. Nos. 1 and 1½ cans are +used almost exclusively. These sizes should contain 4½ oz +and 9 ounces of meat respectively. It is unsafe to put in more meat +than above directed, for it might cake and become solid when +processed.</p> +<p>Add a very mild brine to within ½ inch from top of can. +For the brine use 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart of boiling water. +Sterilize.</p> +<p><b>Dry Pack.</b> Handle same as above, except do not pour into +the cans any brine. The fish is packed in the cans and processed as +follows without the addition of any liquor.</p> +<p><b>Drying of Shrimps.</b> After shrimps are boiled and peeled +they may be dried. Spread on a drier of any kind and dry at a +temperature of from 110°F. to 150°F. When thoroughly dry +pack in dry clean glass jars or in parchment-paper lined boxes.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SALMON</b></p> +<p>Scale fish, clean and wipe dry. Do not wash. If the fish are +large cut in lengths to fill the cans and in sizes to pass through +can openings easily. Salmon is usually packed in No. 1 cans or in +flat cans. Fill cans with fish after it has been blanched 5 minutes +and cold dipped. Sterilize as other fish.</p> +<p>Many salmon packers lacquer the outside of their cans to prevent +rusting. This is a very advisable point. The test for unsound +salmon is the nose. If the contents issue an offensive odor, it is +unsound. Freezing does not hurt canned salmon.</p> +<br> +<p><b>AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES</b></p> +<p>The fish taught and used for packing domestic sardines belong to +the herring family and are said to be of the same species as the +sardines of France, Portugal and Spain. There are two methods +generally used in canning sardines. First, when the fish are put in +a sauce such as mustard dressing or tomato sauce, and secondly +where they are packed in oil.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING SARDINES IN SAUCE</b></p> +<p>The heads are cut off, the scales taken off and the fish +cleaned. Blanch 5 minutes; cold dip; drain and pack into the cans +dry. Cover with sauce, either mustard or tomato.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SARDINES IN OIL</b></p> +<p>The fish are prepared in the same manner as above described but +instead of blanching them, they are put in wire baskets and +immersed in boiling peanut or cottonseed oil until tender. Olive +oil might be used, but is rather expensive. When cooked, they are +drained, packed into cans in order, and the cans filled with olive +oil. It is often advisable to salt the fish while fresh and before +cooking as it improves the flavor.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CRAB MEAT</b></p> +<p>Put 5 gallons of water in a large kettle. Add ¼ lb. of +baking soda to it. When boiling vigorously throw the live crabs in +it and boil quickly for 20 minutes. Remove crabs and wash them in +cold water. Pick out all meat. Wash the meat in a brine made of 1 +ounce of salt dissolved in three quarts of water. Drain and pack in +enameled No. 1 flat cans. Sterilize. As soon as the time of +sterilizing is up, plunge the cans immediately into cold water, +otherwise crab meat discolors. For this reason, glass jars are not +so well adapted to crab meat canning as tin cans.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FLAKED CODFISH</b></p> +<p>The fish are first cleaned and the entrails removed, then the +fins are cut off. The fish are then soaked for about two hours in a +salt brine to remove the blood. This brine is made with about 10 +lbs. of salt to 8 gallons of water. The brine is then rinsed off +and the fish are cooked, either boiled or cooked by steam. When +codfish are thoroughly cooked, the meat will drop off of the bone +in pieces, and it is very white in color and crisp in texture. +These pieces are then broken in suitable sizes and are ready to +place in the cans. The cans are filled as full as possible, because +after processing the fish will shrink some.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CRAWFISH</b></p> +<p>The best way to can crawfish is to put it up in a bouillon as +follows: Water, 2 gallons; vinegar, 1 quart; cloves, 10; carrots in +slices, 6; onions in slices, 6; cloves of garlic, 3.</p> +<p>To the above should be added a good quantity of pepper to suit +the taste, a little salt and bunch of parsley and a little thyme. +Boil slowly for about an hour. Throw in the crawfish after the +intestines have been extracted; to do this take the live crawfish +in your hand and tear off the wing which is in the middle of the +tail; it will pull out at the same time a little black intestine +which is very bitter. Boil one or two minutes, never longer, put in +cans and process.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING FISH</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='center'>PRODUCT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE +SCALD OR BLANCH</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Fish of all kinds</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 to 5 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Shell fish of all kinds</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_IX' id="CHAPTER_IX"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> +<h3>EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN</h3> +<br> +<p>If the proper sanitary requirements are provided and +instructions of the cold-pack method of canning are followed, it is +entirely safe and practical to use tin cans for all kinds of +fruits, vegetables and other food products. Food +poisoning—commonly called ptomaine poisoning—and the +effects ascribed to "salts of tin" result from improper handling +and improper preparation of the product before packing, or from +allowing the product to stand in the tin after it has been opened. +The raw food products used for canning in tin must be in sound +condition, just as they must be if put into glass containers.</p> +<p>It is true that canned foods may be rendered unfit for use by +improper handling of the product before packing and that +decomposition may occur after canning, owing to insufficient +processing, improper sealing or the use of leaky containers. This +condition, however, is no more likely to be encountered in foods +put up in tin than in products canned in other types of containers. +You run no more danger of poison from your own tin-canned products +than from tin-canned food bought at the store. Most canned foods if +in a spoiled condition readily show this condition by the swelling +of the can or by odor or taste. Canned foods showing such evidences +of decomposition should not be used.</p> +<p>Certain foods which are high in protein, such as meats, peas, +beans and fish products, may undergo decomposition without making +this condition obvious to the senses. It is essential, therefore, +that the greatest care be taken to subject such products to proper +preparation and ample processing. It should be remembered that +canned foods, after opening the containers, should be treated as +perishable products and should be handled with the same precautions +that are applied when fresh products are being used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ADVANTAGES OF CANS</b></p> +<p>Many housewives ask, "Why can in tin when we have always used +glass jars?" There are many advantages in canning in tin which we +can well consider. There is no breakage as in glass; you can handle +the tin cans as carelessly as you choose and you will not hear a +snap or crack indicating a lost jar. Furthermore, tin cans are +easier to handle not only in canning but in storing.</p> +<p>The expense each year of new tin covers or new tin cans is no +more than the purchase of new rubbers and the replacement of broken +glass jars. Furthermore, one big advantage of tin over glass is +that tin cans can be cooled quickly by plunging them into cold +water immediately upon removal from the canner, and thus the +cooking is stopped at the proper moment. The product is +consequently better in form and flavor than when the cooking is +prolonged, as it must be in glass jars. Many women like the large +openings of cans because they can make better packs than when using +narrow-necked jars.</p> +<p>If you do not care to bother with the soldering you can purchase +a safe and simple device that will do the work for you. This device +is called a tin-can sealer. With a sealer no soldering is +necessary. Even an inexperienced person, by following directions +carefully, can seal a can as well as an experienced one. The sealed +cans look exactly like those purchased at the store. Two or three +cans a minute can be sealed with this device.</p> +<p>This is the way to operate a can sealer: Prepare the fruits and +vegetables as for any canning, following directions formerly given +for cold-pack canning.</p> +<p>After the fruits or vegetables have been properly prepared, +blanched and cold-dipped if necessary, place them in sanitary, +solderless cans. Put water or sirup on, according to directions. +Put the top on the can and place the can in the sealer.</p> +<p>Raise the can into the chunk by swinging the raising lever at +the bottom of the machine against the frame. Turn the crank, +rapidly at first, with the right hand, and at the same time push +the seaming-roll lever very slowly with the left hand until it will +go no farther. This is one of the most important steps in the use +of the machine. Continue to give the crank several turns after the +seaming-roll lever has gone as far as it will go. This completes +the first operation or seam.</p> +<p>Continue turning the crank with the right hand, and with the +left hand pull the seaming-roll lever until it will go no farther +in this direction. After this has been done give the crank several +more turns, and the second and final operation is complete. Bring +the seaming-roll lever back to the middle position and remove the +can. The can is then ready for sterilization.</p> +<p>Before sealing a new lot of cans or after changing for a +different size of can, one or two of the cans about to be used +should be tested for leaks. If this is done and the cans stand the +test it will be unnecessary to test the remaining cans of that same +lot. The following is a simple and safe test:</p> +<p>Put one tablespoon of water into an empty can and seal. Have on +hand a vessel containing enough boiling water to cover the can. Set +aside and, as soon as bubbles disappear from the surface, immerse +the can in the hot water. This heats the water in the can and +creates a pressure within the can. Keep the can under the surface +for two minutes, and if by that time no bubbles rise from the can +the can has been sealed air-tight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ADJUSTING THE SEAMING ROLLS</b></p> +<p>If bubbles rise from the can the seam is not sufficiently tight. +If this seam is not sufficiently tight the <i>second</i> seaming +roll needs adjusting, provided the directions regarding seaming +rolls given below have been observed. To set the rolls proceed as +follows: Loosen the nut on the bottom of the seaming-roll pin. With +a screw driver turn the seaming-roll pin counter +clockwise—that is, from right to left. Turn very slightly +and, while holding the seaming-roll pin with the screw driver in +the left hand, tighten nut with the right hand, and test as +before.</p> +<p>Occasionally it is well to compare the seam after the first +operation with the sample can which is sent with the machine.</p> +<p>If seaming rolls cut into the can they are set too close, and +the seaming-roll pin should be adjusted in the opposite direction +from above.</p> +<p>After adjusting, always test cans as suggested above before +canning. The seaming rolls are set before the machine leaves the +factory and should not require adjusting for some time, but I have +found that slight variations in cans may make adjusting +necessary.</p> +<p>If for any reason the second seaming roll is brought into +contact with the can before the first operation is complete it may +injure the can seriously, thus preventing an air-tight seam.</p> +<p>If the first seaming roll is forced in too rapidly it may ruin +the seam. Push the seaming-roll lever gently and steadily, while +turning the crank with the right hand. This rolls the seam +gradually. There is no danger from bringing in the second seaming +roll too quickly if the first seaming roll has completed its +work.</p> +<p>There are thus, as you see, two kinds of tin cans used in home +canning: The sanitary or rim-seal can, which is used with a sealer, +and the cap-and-hole can. The latter consists of a can, and a cover +which carries a rim of solder and is fastened on the can by the +application of heat.</p> +<p>The sanitary can has a cover a trifle larger than the diameter +of the can, thus leaving the full diameter of the can open for +filling. That part of the cover that comes into contact with the +can is coated with a compound or fitted with a paper gasket or ring +which makes a perfect seal when the cover is crimped on the can. +Some mechanical device is necessary for sealing this can, and this +is the sealer.</p> +<p>Cans may be had with inside enamel or plain without any enamel. +The following fruits and vegetables should be canned in +enamel-lined cans: All berry fruits, cherries, plums, rhubarb, +pumpkin, beets and squash. All highly colored products should be +canned in enamel-lined cans to prevent the bleaching effect induced +by their action upon the plain tin. Some prefer to can fish and +meat in the enamel-lined cans. Other products not mentioned here +may be canned in plain cans, since they are less expensive than the +enamel-lined cans.</p> +<p>Covers are lined in two ways, with the paper gasket and the +compound gasket. The compound gasket is merely a preparation, +scarcely visible, applied to the under side of the cover and is not +easily damaged by handling. The paper gasket is a ring placed on +the under side of the cover and must be handled carefully. If the +paper gasket becomes broken the cover must be discarded. To +sterilize covers having the paper gasket, place them in the oven +for a few minutes, but <i>do not wet them</i>, before sealing cans. +Do not remove or handle paper gaskets.</p> +<p>When the cans are removed from the cooker the ends should be +raised; this is caused by the pressure within. If they are not +raised at the ends the cans should be carefully examined for +defects. After the cans are sterilized they should be cooled off in +water. This will cause the ends to collapse. If they do not +collapse the reason is probably due to overfilling. It must be +remembered that peas, beans and corn swell a certain amount after +water is placed in the cans; therefore, in canning these vegetables +the cans should be filled only to within a quarter of an inch of +the top. If the pressure of the air from without will not cause the +end to collapse, it should be forced in by hand.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE TINNING OUTFIT</b></p> +<p>Tin-can sealers are made to handle the regular Number 2, or pint +cans, and the Number 3, or quart cans. The sizes are +interchangeable, so that in a few minutes' time a Number 2 machine +may be changed into a Number 3 machine with the necessary +attachments. So it is economy to buy a machine with these +attachments, as you can then use either pints or quarts as you +desire.</p> +<p>If you are selling to boarding houses and hotels you also will +want half-gallon and gallon cans. If you use these larger-size cans +and want the sealer you can get it for these sizes, but you must +tell exactly what you want when ordering.</p> +<p>The prices which I give are 1919 prices and are of course not +stationary. A sealer that will seal the Number 2 sanitary tin cans +costs $14. A sealer for Number 3 cans will cost the same amount. +But the ideal arrangement is the combination machine which can be +used for both the pints, Number 2, and the quarts, Number 3. This +type of sealer costs $16.50. A special machine is used for sealing +the Number 10 or gallon cans, and its price is $35.</p> +<p>The price of the "winter can opener" is $17.00 for smaller size +and $19.50 for the larger one.</p> +<p>Several standard sizes of tin cans are in common use for canning +purposes, as follows:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>NUMBER</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE<br> +INCHES</td> +<td align='left'>DIAMETER OF<br> +OPENING<br> +INCHES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1</td> +<td align='left'>2⅝ by 4</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3-5/16 by 4-9/16</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>4⅛ by 4⅞</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>6-3/16 by 6⅞</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The cans are put up in crates holding 100 or 500 cans. If you +are canning for the ordinary market use Number 2 cans for berries, +corn, peas and cherries; Number 3 cans for tomatoes, peaches, +apples, pears and sweet potatoes.</p> +<p>In buying cans it is always necessary to state whether you +desire plain tin or lacquered—enameled—cans. In buying +caps always ask for the solder-hemmed caps and give the diameter of +the can opening. For whole fruits and vegetables, cans with +two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch or even larger openings are +preferable. Since the size of the can opening varies and it +ordinarily will not be advisable to have more than one capping +iron, it is recommended that the larger +size—two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch—capping iron be +purchased.</p> +<p>The tin cans come in lots of 100 or 500 cans. It is possible to +buy as few as two dozen cans, but that never pays. It is cheaper to +buy a larger quantity. Number 2 plain sanitary cans in 500 lots +cost $3.45 a hundred; in 100 lots, $3.65 a hundred. Number 2 +sanitary cans—enameled—in 500 lots cost $3.80 a +hundred; in 100 lots, $3.95 a hundred. Number 3, plain, in 500 lots +are $4.50 a hundred; Number 3, plain, in 100 lots are $4.70 a +hundred. Number 3, enameled cans, in 500 lots, are $4.95 a hundred; +Number 3, enameled cans, in 100 lots, are $5.10 a hundred.</p> +<p>The gallons come twelve cans to a case. They are $1.40 a dozen +if 100 cases are bought. If less than 100 cases are ordered they +are $1.50 a dozen.</p> +<p>The cans that you have to solder yourself run just about the +same price, Number 2 being $3.60 in 500 lots and $3.80 in 100 lots. +Number 3 are $4.70 in 500 lots and $4.90 in 100 lots. The buyer +must pay express or freight charges on both sealers and tin +cans.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PREPARING OLD CANS FOR REFILLING</b></p> +<br> +<p>Formerly, after using a tin can once we threw it away; but men +with brains, realizing this waste, have come to our rescue, and as +a consequence we can now use a can three times—that is, if we +have a sealer. The sealer that seals our cans will also open them +for us, so it becomes our winter can opener. With this can opener +we can use our tin cans three times, buying each year only new +tops, which cost less than good rubbers.</p> +<p><b>Cutting and Reflanging Tin Cans.</b> Cutting off the can the +first time. First lift the spring pin in the top piece, push the +lever from you, drop the spring pin between the stop of the first +operation roll and the cutting-roll stop. Place the can in the +sealer, push the can-raising lever against opposite side of frame. +Turn the crank and gently push seaming-roll handle from you until +you come against cutting-roll stop, and the top of your can is cut +off.</p> +<p><b>Reflanging.</b> Remove standard can base and in its place put +in the reflanging base, lift the spring-pin and bring seaming-roll +lever to the original position. Drop the spring pin between the +stops of the first and second operation rollers, place the can in +the sealer, open end down, push raising lever round until the can +engages with the chuck, turn the crank and at the same time +gradually push raising lever round against the frame. The can is +now ready for use again.</p> +<p><b>Resealing</b>. The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch +shorter than originally. Remove the reflanging base, put one of the +narrow washers on the top of the can-raising lever, then the +standard can base, and the sealer is now ready. Proceed as with the +original can.</p> +<p><b>Cutting the Can the Second Time.</b> Proceed as at the first +time, only be sure to cut off the opposite end. The can may be cut +open and reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body. In +cutting and reflanging the second time, leave the +three-sixteenth-inch washer under the can base and reflanging +base.</p> +<p><b>Resealing the Second Time.</b> Remove reflanging base and put +the second three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base +and proceed as directed under resealing.</p> +<b>THE SOLDERING OUTFIT</b> +<p>The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a +tipping copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass +or stoneware cup in which to keep the soldering flux: sal ammoniac, +a few scraps of zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file.</p> +<p><b>Soldering Flux.</b> Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in +crude muriatic acid. It is used for cleaning the irons and for +brushing the tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for +the melted lead to adhere to the tin.</p> +<p><b>To Make the Flux.</b> Purchase at the drug store ten cents' +worth of crude muriatic acid. Place this in a porcelain, stone or +glass jar. Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will +thoroughly dissolve. The flux is always best when it has stood from +twelve to sixteen hours before using. Strain through a piece of +cloth or muslin. Dilute with a little water, about half and half. +This will make the soldering flux. When using keep the flux well +mixed and free from dust and dirt.</p> +<p><b>Tinning Capping Iron.</b> Purchase five or ten cents worth of +sal ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife. Mix +a little solder with the sal ammoniac. Heat the capping iron hot +enough so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a +liquid. Place the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal +ammoniac and solder. Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering +edge of the iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the +solder. All particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, +should be removed from the iron before tinning.</p> +<p><b>Tinning the Tipping Copper.</b> The tipping copper is tinned +in very much the same way as the iron. Sometimes it is desirable to +file the tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to +correct the point. Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the +mixture of sal ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the +melted lead and is bright as silver. The copper should be filed +nearly to a sharp point.</p> +<p><b>Capping a Tin Can.</b> Use one tin can for experimenting. By +capping and tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and +simply putting another cap on the same can, you can use this one +can until you become proficient in capping.</p> +<p>When capping the full packs arrange the cans in rows upon the +table while the capping and tipping irons are heating in the fire. +Take a handful of solder-hemmed caps and place them on all cans +ready to be capped. Place a finger on the vent hole, hold cap in +place, and run the brush containing a small amount of flux evenly +round the solder-hemmed cap with one stroke of the hand. Do this +with all cans ready to be capped. Then take the capping iron from +the fire. Insert in center the upright steel. Hold the capping iron +above the cap until the center rod touches the cap and holds it in +place. Then bring it down in contact with all four points of +solder-hemmed cap and rotate back and forth about three strokes. Do +not bear down on capping iron. A forward and back stroke of this +kind, if properly applied, will perfectly solder the cap in place. +Remove capping iron and inspect the joint.</p> +<p>If any pin-holes are found recap or repair with copper. It may +be necessary to use a piece of wire lead or waste lead rim from a +cap to add more lead to the broken or pinhole places of a cap.</p> +<p><b>Tipping a Tin Can.</b> Take flux jar and brush. Dip brush +lightly in flux and strike the vent hole a side stroke, lightly, +with brush saturated with flux.</p> +<p>Use the waste solder-hemmed cap rim or wire solder. Place point +of wire solder over vent hole. Place upon this the point of the +hot, bright, tipping copper. Press down with a rotary motion. +Remove quickly. A little practice will not only make this easy, but +a smooth, perfect joint and filling will be the result. The cans +are now ready for the canner. The handwork is all over, for the +canner will do the rest.</p> +<p><b>Precautions.</b> Do not fill tin cans too full. Leave a +one-eighth to one-quarter inch space at the top of the can and see +that the product does not touch the cover. If any of the product +touches the cover the application of the hot iron produces steam, +which may blow out the solder, making it impossible to seal the +can.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RULES FOR STERILIZING</b></p> +<p>Remember all fruits and vegetables are prepared for tin cans +exactly as they are for glass jars and the period of cooking or +sterilizing is the same. The following rules will help to avoid +difficulties in the operation of the various canning outfits:</p> +<p>For hot-water-bath outfits, whether homemade or commercial.</p> +<p>1. Support the cans off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and round the cans.</p> +<p>2. Have the water cover the tops of the cans by at least one +inch. The heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the +cans.</p> +<p>3. Count time as soon as the water begins to jump over the +entire surface. Keep it jumping.</p> +<p>4. On removing the cans throw them into a sink with running cold +water or plunge them into a pail of cold water.</p> +<p>5. If the cans are laid on their sides the false bottom is not +necessary.</p> +<br /> +<p>For steam-pressure and pressure-cooker canners the following +precautions should be observed:</p> +<p>1. Lower the inside crate until it rests on the bottom of the +steam-pressure canners. In the case of the pressure cooker put the +rack in the bottom of the cooker.</p> +<p>2. Have the water come to, but not above, the platform.</p> +<p>3. Tin cans can be piled one above the other.</p> +<p>4. When the canner has been filled fasten the opposite clamps +moderately tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp +fully.</p> +<p>5. Have the canner absolutely steam-tight.</p> +<p>6. Allow the pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from +it.</p> +<p>7. Close the pet cock.</p> +<p>8. After the gauge registers the correct amount of pressure, +begin counting the time.</p> +<p>9. Maintain a uniform pressure throughout the process.</p> +<p>10. When the process is completed allow the steam to escape +gradually through the pet cock. You can lift the pet cock slowly, +using a pencil or a knife. This can be done only with tin cans. If +glass jars are used the canner must be cooled before opening the +pet cock. Blowing the steam from the pet cock is likely to cause a +loss of liquid from the partly sealed glass jars.</p> +<p>11. Throw the tin cans into cold water.</p> +<p>12. If tin cans bulge at both ends after they have been +completely cooled, it indicates that they are spoiling and +developing gas, due to bacteria spores or chemical action. These +may be saved if opened at once and resealed or resoldered and +processed again for ten minutes.</p> +<br /> +<p>The following table will help you in estimating how many cans of +fruit and vegetables you will obtain from a bushel of product:</p> +<br> +<h3>NUMBER OF CANS A BUSHEL FILLS</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='center'>NO. 2 CANS</td> +<td align='center'>NO. 3 CANS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall apples</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard peaches</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +<td align='center'>18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Blackberries</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges, sliced</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges, whole</td> +<td align='center'>35</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Shelled Lima beans</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet corn</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peas, shelled</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_X' id="CHAPTER_X"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER X</h2> +<h3>INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION</h3> +<br> +<p>In some parts of the United States, particularly in the South, +such vegetables as corn, beans, peas, squash, spinach, pumpkin, +etc., are canned by what is known as the fractional sterilization, +or the so-called Three Days Process.</p> +<p>Southern canning experts have had trouble with certain +vegetables, such as those named, when they canned these vegetables +in the wash boiler by the cold-pack or one period method. They say +that the climatic conditions are so different in the South that +what is possible in the North is not possible in the South.</p> +<p>The vegetables are prepared, blanched, cold-dipped and packed as +in the cold-pack method and the filled cans or jars are processed +in the wash boiler or other homemade outfit a given length of time +three successive days.</p> +<p>After each day's processing the cans should be cooled quickly +and set aside, until the next day.</p> +<p>The method is as follows:</p> +<p>Process or sterilize glass jars for the required number of +minutes on the first day, remove from canner, push springs down +tightly as you remove the jar from the canner.</p> +<p>On the second day raise the springs, place the jar in the +canner, process or boil for the same length of time as on the first +day. Remove from the canner and seal tightly. Set aside until the +third day, when the process should be repeated.</p> +<p>For this canning a good spring-top jar is good, although the +Mason jar type of top will serve for one year; after one year of +use it is advisable to fit old Mason jars and similar types with +new tops.</p> +<p>If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, do not disturb +the seal at the second and third processing unless the rubber has +blown out.</p> +<p>This method is only necessary when depending upon boiling water +or condensed steam to do the work.</p> +<p>A steam-pressure canner or pressure cooker is used in the South +and many other places to avoid bothering with vegetables three +successive days.</p> +<p>The steam canner or pressure cooker soon pays for itself in +time, energy, and fuel saved as the vegetables may be canned at +high pressure in one processing.</p> +<p>The following time-tables are those used in the South and will +tell you exactly how long to blanch and process all products. The +preparation of vegetables and fruits is the same as in the +one-period method, but the time of blanching and sterilizing +differs as the time-table indicates.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS</h3> +<h4>(Hot-Water Canner)</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH 1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR No water</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE JAR Quart</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR BOIL 30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans (very young and tender)</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_1'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>2 tablespoonfuls water</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sauerkraut</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_1'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>40 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 40 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Soup mixture</td> +<td align='left'>Boil down thick</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 1 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 1 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>13 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Figs</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>1-2 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 2 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>25-35 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_1' id="Footnote_1_1"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>To make sirups recommended, boil sugar and water +together in proportions given below:</p> +<ul> +<li>Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>One pint sugar is one pound.</li> +</ul> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS</h3> +<h4>The following vegetables should be processed the same length of +time on each of three successive days:</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE JAR</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR<br> +BOIL ON EACH<br> +OF THREE<br> +SUCCESSIVE DAYS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>2 min. on cob</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Garden peas</td> +<td align='left'>1 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1¾ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1¾ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_2' id="Footnote_1_2"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN</h3> +<h4>(Hot-Water Canner)</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>NO. CAN</td> +<td align='left'>EXHAUST<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS<br> +OR BOIL</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>2 hrs. and 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>2 tablespoonfuls water</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Soup mixture</td> +<td align='left'>Boil down thick</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>8 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>32 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Figs</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>35 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_3' id="Footnote_1_3"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>To make sirup recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below.</p> +<ul> +<li>Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 4, use 5 pounds 8 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 5, use 6 pounds 13 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>One pint sugar is one pound.</li> +</ul> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN</h3> +<h4>The following vegetables should be processed the same length of +time on each of three successive days:</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>NO. CAN</td> +<td align='left'>EXHAUST<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR<br> +BOIL ON EACH<br> +OF THREE<br> +SUCCESSIVE DAYS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>2 min. on cob</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Garden peas</td> +<td align='left'>1 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>50 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>50 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_4' id="Footnote_1_4"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>You will notice in the time-table for tin, that there is a +column for "Exhausting." After the can is packed and capped it is +placed in the canner of boiling water to within 1 inch of the top +of the can where it remains the number of minutes, usually three, +indicated on the time-table. This is done to force the air from the +can through the little hole left open in the top, and is called +exhausting. Cans that are not exhausted frequently bulge after +processing and are looked upon with suspicion. Cans exhausted too +long frequently cave in at the sides. The time-table should be used +carefully and followed strictly in this part of the process. Tin +cans do not require exhausting in the Northern and Western +states.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES STEAM PRESSURE</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>VEGETABLE</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS,<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>TEMPERATURE,<br> +DEGREES<br> +FAHRENHEIT</td> +<td align='left'>PRESSURE<br> +POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>String beans, No. 2</td> +<td align='left'>45</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>String beans, No. 3</td> +<td align='left'>55</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Beets</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>80</td> +<td align='left'>250</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Peas</td> +<td align='left'>45</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soup, concentrated vegetable</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>70</td> +<td align='left'>250</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Corn, lima beans and peas should never be packed in larger +container than No. 2. Corn is cut from cob after blanching.</p> +<p>The brine used is made of 2½ ounces salt to 1 gallon of +water, except for asparagus, which contains 4 ounces to 1 +gallon.</p> +<p>Beets and rhubarb when packed in tin must be put in enamel-lined +cans.</p> +<p>Process pints as for No. 2 cans; quarts as for No. 3 cans, +adding 10 minutes to each period.</p> +<p>String beans when more mature should be processed at 15 pounds +pressure for 30 minutes for No. 2, and 45 minutes for No. 3.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XI' id="CHAPTER_XI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> +<h3>WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL</h3> +<br> +<p>Every day brings letters to my desk saying, "Why did my jars of +vegetables lose water?" or, "When I looked into my canner I saw all +the beautiful dark sirup in the bottom of the canner instead of in +the jars," or, "What shall I do, my beets are all white?" etc., +etc. In this chapter I am going to try and tell you a few things +you must and must not do. A few "Do's" and "Don'ts" may help you a +little in your canning and food preserving.</p> +<p>I want to say right here that if you have failures do not blame +the method as we are always so apt to do. Experts have worked long +enough, carefully and thoroughly enough, to convince themselves and +others that the cold-pack method and the intermittent method, which +methods are employed for cooking the product in the jar, are sure, +safe, reliable and efficient methods. So if your food spoils +convince yourself it is not the method but something else. Spoilage +is due to imperfect jars, imperfect rubbers, imperfect sealing of +tin cans, careless blanching, insufficient cold dipping or poor +sterilizing.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CAN-RUBBERS</b></p> +<p>Possibly your canning troubles are all due to using a poor grade +of rubber rings. This is poor economy. Rubbers are apt to give more +trouble than anything else to canners when using glass jars. Many +of the rubbers sold are of a very poor quality, disintegrating +quickly when subjected to heat and strain. My sister, canning in +the hot climate of India, has more trouble with the rubber +proposition than anything else.</p> +<p>You want good rubbers, are willing to pay for them, and here is +what you should know about rubber rings.</p> +<p>The one-period, cold-pack method and the intermittent method of +home canning require a rubber ring essentially different from that +commonly used in the old hot-pack method of home canning. +Investigation shows that many of the rings upon the market are +unsuitable for these newer methods, being unable to withstand the +long periods of boiling required in the canning of vegetables and +meats.</p> +<p>Practical canning tests have indicated that rubber rings for use +in this method should meet the following requirements:</p> +<p><b>Inside Diameter</b>. The ring should fit closely, requiring a +little stretching to get it around the neck of the jar. For +standard jars the ring should have an inside diameter of 2¼ +inches.</p> +<p><b>Width of Ring and Flange</b>. The width of the ring or flange +may vary from one-fourth of an inch to twelve thirty-seconds of an +inch. Tests which have been made show that fewer cases of +"blow-out" occur when the flange is ten thirty-seconds of an +inch.</p> +<p><b>Thickness</b>. Rubber rings as found on the market may vary +from 1/18 to 1/10 of an inch in thickness. Tests show that 1/12 of +an inch in thickness is sufficient to take up the unevenness in the +jar and still not so thick as to make it difficult to place the cap +or adjust the bail.</p> +<p>Cold-pack and intermittent-canning require a rubber ring that is +tough, does not enlarge perceptibly when heated in water or steam, +and is not forced out of position between the top and the jar by +slight pressure within the jar. This we call a "blow-out."</p> +<p>Rubber rings should be capable of withstanding four hours of +sterilization in boiling water without blowing out on partially +sealed jars, or one hour under ten pounds of steam pressure. They +should be selected with reference to proper inside diameter, width +of flange, and thickness. Good rubber will stretch considerably and +return promptly to place without changing the inside diameter. They +should also be reasonably firm and able to stand without breakage. +Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter during the +manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index to its +usefulness in home canning. Red, white, black or gray may be +used.</p> +<p>Always use <i>new</i> can-rubbers with each year's product of +canned goods. An old rubber may look like a new one but it has lost +its elasticity and its use may cause imperfect sealing and thus +endanger the keeping quality of the food. This is always a hard +thing to impress upon thrifty penny-saving housekeepers. The old +rubber looks so good, so why not use it? But be wise in this and +remember it is <i>never safe to use old rubbers</i>. New rubbers +are expensive but what about the cost of the product, the loss of +your time and fuel! One jar lost due to an old rubber is so much +food, time and fuel lost.</p> +<p>And do not think yourself thrifty to use two old rubber rings +instead of one, thereby thinking to obtain a better seal, for you +will not. Two old rubbers are inferior in strength to one new good +rubber. If you use old rubbers and your canned goods spoil, blame +the rubbers.</p> +<br> +<p><b>GLASS JARS</b></p> +<p>Next in importance to the rubbers are the glass jars you use. +There are many kinds of fruit jars on the market. The question is +frequently asked, "Which jars on the market are the best." The only +answer to that is to choose the jar which is simplest in +construction, which will seal perfectly and wash easily, which +protects the contained food against contact with metal, which has +the fewest parts to lose or misplace and which fits the shelves and +receptacles planned to hold it.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FLAT SOUR</b></p> +<p>Flat-sour often causes annoyance to beginners in canning some +vegetables, such as corn, peas, beans and asparagus. These canned +foods may show no signs of spoilage and yet when the can is opened +the product may have a sour taste and a disagreeable odor. This +"flat-sour" is not harmful and must not be confused with +"botulinus," which is harmful. However, the taste and odor are so +disagreeable you will have no desire to eat "flat-sour" canned +goods.</p> +<p>This trouble can be avoided if you will use fresh products, that +is, those which have not been allowed to wilt or stand around the +shops for several days, and will blanch, cold-dip, and pack one jar +of product at a time, and place each jar in the canner as it is +packed. The first jars in will not be affected by the extra +cooking. When the steam-pressure canner is used the jars or cans +may be placed in the retort and the cover placed into position but +not clamped down until the retort is filled.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TROUBLES WITH CORN</b></p> +<p>Corn seems to give the most trouble, but with a little care and +study this product may be canned as easily as any other grown in +the garden. A little experience in selecting the ears and ability +to recognize corn that is just between the milk and dough stage is +important. Blanch not longer than five minutes. A plunge in cold +water is sufficient. Cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife +and pack at once in sterilized jars. Best results can be +accomplished when two people cut and one person fills. If it is +necessary for one person to work alone, cut off sufficient corn to +fill one jar, pour on <i>boiling</i> water, add salt, place rubber +and cap in position and put the jar at once in the canner. A little +overcooking does not injure the quality of canned corn. Corn should +not be tightly packed in the jar; it expands a little in processing +and for this reason each jar should be filled scant full. Corn that +has a cheesy appearance after canning had reached the dough stage +before being packed. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the +cold dip and large quantities should not be dipped at one time +unless sufficient help is available to handle the product +quickly.</p> +<p>Some to be absolutely sure when canning corn, cook it for ten +minutes in hot water before packing into jars.</p> +<p>Leave fully one inch of space at the top when packing corn but +enough water may be poured into the jar to fill the can or jar, for +when the corn swells the water will be absorbed.</p> +<p><b>Corn Turning Dark</b>. A dark color in canned corn is due to +some of the following causes:</p> +<p>1. Using water that contains too much iron.</p> +<p>2. Using corn that has reached the dough stage.</p> +<p>3. Blanching for too long a period—five minutes is +sufficient for corn.</p> +<p><b>Water-Logged or Soaked Corn</b>. When canned corn becomes +"water-logged" or "soaked" it is due to such causes as the +following:</p> +<p>1. Allowing the product to stand in the cold water too long +after the hot dip.</p> +<p>2. Allowing the jars to stand after they have been packed, and +filled with boiling water. The jars should be immediately placed in +the sterilizer after being packed.</p> +<p>3. Allowing ears of corn to stand in cold water after +opening.</p> +<p>4. Heating corn in warm water over a slow fire.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BEETS, THEIR LOSS OF COLOR</b></p> +<p>The loss of color in canned beets is due to faulty methods of +preparation before packing them into the jars. To secure good +results 3 or 4 inches of the top and all of the tail should be left +on while blanching. Beets should be blanched for five minutes and +the skin should be scraped but not peeled. Beets should be packed +whole if possible.</p> +<p>Small beets that run forty to a quart are less likely to fade +and are the most suitable size for first-class packs. The older the +beets the more chance there is for loss of color. Well-canned beets +will show a slight loss of color when removed from the canner, but +will brighten up in a few days.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLOUDY PEAS</b></p> +<p>The condition of peas known as "cloudy" is due to such causes as +the following:</p> +<p>1. Cracking the skin of the pea.</p> +<p>2. Blanching for too long a period.</p> +<p>3. Use of water which is too hard or has too much mineral +content.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRINKAGE OF PRODUCT DURING CANNING</b></p> +<p>Shrinkage may be due to one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Improper blanching and cold-dipping.</p> +<p>2. Careless packing and using variety of sizes.</p> +<p>3. Sterilizing for too long a period.</p> +<p>4. Lack of sizing whole products for the container.</p> +<p>Sometimes there is a natural shrinkage that cannot be prevented. +This is due to the fact that vegetables contain air in their +tissues and when this air is driven off by the heat, the boiling +water in the jar rushes in to fill its place. In consequence we +have an apparent shrinkage in the amount of water. So be careful to +do the blanching as correctly as possible to drive out the air; +however, the product will keep just as well in a jar half full of +water as if entirely covered with liquid. The contents of the jar +whether food or air are sterile.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRINKAGE OF GREENS</b></p> +<p>Shrinkage of greens or pot herbs during the canning process is +usually due to insufficient blanching. The proper way to blanch all +greens or pot herbs is in a steamer or in a vessel improvised to do +the blanching in live steam above the water line. If this is not +done much of the mineral salts and volatile oil contents will be +extracted by the water and lost.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LOSS OF LIQUID DURING CANNING</b></p> +<p>A loss of liquid in canning with a hot-water-bath outfit may be +caused by one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Not having the water in the sterilizing vat cover the tops of +the jars by at least one inch.</p> +<p>2. Not providing a suitable platform to hold the jars off the +bottom of the sterilizing vat, permitting circulation of water +under as well as around the jars.</p> +<p>3. Not having the wire bail that goes over the glass tops of +jars sufficiently tight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>REASONS WHY JUICES ARE DRAWN FROM JARS WHEN CANNING WITH +STEAM PRESSURE</b></p> +<p>1. Open pet cock after pointer or gauge has reached zero; test +for pressure by opening pet cock slowly at first. The gauge does +not register pressure until about one pound of pressure has formed, +hence opening the pet cock before the pointer is at zero means that +from one to two pounds of pressure is being relieved and this will +draw the juices the same as allowing the boiler to stand and a +vacuum to form.</p> +<p>2. Allowing the pressure to fluctuate during the time of +sterilizing, such as running the pressure up to fifteen, back to +seven or eight and then up again.</p> +<p>3. Wire bails can be and should be a little tighter when jars +are put in a steam pressure canner. The clamp should be left up as +stated.</p> +<p>4. There may be an escape of steam around the seal of the boiler +and this would allow the pressure on the inside of the boiler to +fluctuate.</p> +<p>Any one of those four things will always cause loss of +juice.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OPERATION OF HOT-WATER-BATH OUTFIT</b></p> +<p>These four rules will help in the operation of the +hot-water-bath canning outfit: Example, wash boiler.</p> +<p>1. Support the jars off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and around the jars.</p> +<p>2. Have the water cover the tops of the jars by at least one +inch. The heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the +jars.</p> +<p>3. Count time as soon as the water begins to <i>jump</i> over +the entire surface. Keep it jumping.</p> +<p>4. Remove jars from the water and tighten the covers as soon as +the time is up.</p> +<p>Rapid cooling of the products prevents overcooking, clarifies +the liquid and preserves the shape and texture.</p> +<p>Operation of steamers or "double-deckers" as they are sometimes +called. These have a small amount of water in a pan below two racks +and the products cook in steam instead of boiling water.</p> +<p>1. Have water boiling in pan when products are put in.</p> +<p>2. Use same time-table as for hot-water bath or wash boiler.</p> +<p>3. Remove jars from steam at the end of the sterilizing period. +Do not allow them to "cool off" in the steamer.</p> +<p>The operation of a water-seal canner is very simple.</p> +<p>1. Jars put on racks and lowered in water as in wash-boiler but +due to an extra jacket the temperature is higher than boiling +water.</p> +<p>2. Follow time-table under water-seal.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OPERATION OF STEAM PRESSURE AND PRESSURE COOKER +CANNER</b></p> +<p>1. Place each jar in the canner as soon as it is packed.</p> +<p>2. Have water come up to but not above the platform.</p> +<p>3. Have canner absolutely steam tight.</p> +<p>4. When canner has been filled fasten opposite clamps moderately +tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully.</p> +<p>5. Allow pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from +it.</p> +<p>6. Close pet cock.</p> +<p>7. Force pressure to the required point before counting +time.</p> +<p>8. Maintain a uniform pressure during the sterilizing +period.</p> +<p>9. Allow canner to cool before opening pet cock.</p> +<p>10. Have pet cock completely closed during the cooling.</p> +<p>11. Open pet cock before vacuum forms. This is evidenced by a +rush of air into the canner when the pet cock is open. You can test +this by placing the finger over the end of the pet cock. If a +vacuum forms it will draw the flesh of the finger into the +opening.</p> +<p>12. Remove jars from canner and tighten lids as soon as canner +is opened.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BREAKAGE OF JARS</b></p> +<p>When breakage of jars occurs it is due to such causes as +these:</p> +<p>1. Overpacking jars. Corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell or +expand in processing. Do not quite fill jars with these +products.</p> +<p>2. Placing cold jars in hot water or vice versa. As soon as jars +are filled with hot sirup or hot water, place immediately in the +canner.</p> +<p>3. Having the wire bail of glass top jars too tight.</p> +<p>4. In steam canner, having too much water in the canner. The +water should not come above the tray.</p> +<p>5. Cold draft striking the jars when they are removed from the +canner.</p> +<p>6. Wire spring too tight, thus breaking jar when contents +expand.</p> +<br> +<p><b>MOLD ON CANNED PRODUCTS</b></p> +<p>Mold may result from one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Leaky rubbers or defective joints.</p> +<p>2. Removing tops from the jars at the end of sterilizing period +and substituting new rubbers, without returning the jars to the +canning outfit for at least a few minutes.</p> +<p>3. If the jars are kept in a damp cellar where the rubbers may +decompose, mold may enter through these decomposed rubbers.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ACIDITY OF TOMATOES AFTER CANNING</b></p> +<p>Too great a degree of acidity in canned tomatoes may be due to +climatic conditions or overripe or underripe product. Such acidity +can be corrected by adding ¼ teaspoonful of baking soda to +one quart of tomatoes.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WATER REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME CANNING</b></p> +<p>The hardening of beans, peas and some other products after +cooking or processing, or the turning of green vegetables to a dark +or russet color usually indicates that the water contains too high +a percentage of mineral matter. Water used for canning purposes +should be pure, soft if possible or as free from objectionable and +excessive qualities of mineral matter as possible. If you are to +can any large quantity of food products and have difficulty with +the water available, it would be well for you to have the water +analyzed and for you to secure the advice of some one at your +college of agriculture.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOO MUCH SALT IN CANNED GOODS INJURIOUS TO QUALITY</b></p> +<p>Most vegetables as well as meats are injured in quality by an +excessive use of salt for seasoning in the canning process. A +little salt is very palatable and its use should be encouraged but +it is better to add no salt in canning than to use too much, as it +can be added to suit the taste when served.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ALTITUDE AND ITS EFFECT ON CANNING</b></p> +<p>Remember that practically all instructions on home canning are +based upon a time schedule for sterilization from sea level to an +altitude of 500 feet above sea level. When canning at an altitude +of more than 500 feet above sea level, it will be necessary to use +your judgment in the increase of time for sterilizing on the basis +of 20 per cent for each 4,000 feet.</p> +<p>Blanching means <i>boiling</i>, not hot. In different directions +for canning we often find "hot" water mentioned when boiling water +is intended. Water should be <i>boiling at a gallop</i> when +vegetables are blanched—berries and soft fruits are not +usually blanched, though some are scalded to loosen the skin.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BERRIES OR FRUIT RISING TO THE TOP</b></p> +<p>Some women are disturbed because berries and fruits have a +tendency to always rise to the top of the jar leaving a sirup space +in the bottom. To prevent this you can scald all berries and fruits +which are not ordinarily scalded, for one minute and then cold-dip +them. They will be softened some, but remain firm, and can be +packed very closely in a jar. They can be packed so closely that +only a little sirup can be added. When a jar thus packed comes from +the sterilizer the berries or fruit are not floating as they would +be if they were not scalded.</p> +<p>Another method employed to prevent berries from floating is to +put the hot sterilized jar on its side while cooling and to roll it +frequently during the cooling period. The berries are then evenly +distributed through the sirup.</p> +<p>In canning mushrooms in tin, always use lacquered cans. Do not +fail to blanch and cold dip before packing, and remove the +mushrooms immediately after opening the tin cans.</p> +<p>In canning cabbage and other similar products always soak the +product in cold brine for one hour before sterilizing. Use ½ +pound salt to 12 quarts water. This is believed to improve the +flavor. Always wash greens or other vegetables, to remove all dirt +and grit.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TROUBLES WITH TIN CANS</b></p> +<p>To discover pin-holes or any leaks in a tin can, immerse it in +boiling water after sealing and if there is any bubbling from the +can, you may rest assured it needs resealing.</p> +<p>Swells in tin cans are caused by insufficient sterilization. The +action of bacteria causes gas to form in the can and as a result +there is a bulging at either end. If left alone long enough the +cans will explode. Watch carefully all bulging cans and use them +first. Sometimes a slight bulge occurs when a can has been filled +too full.</p> +<p>If you have trouble sealing tin cans the chances are that the +can is too full. See that no particle of food touches the top or +when soldering, if you employ that method of sealing, small pin +holes will be blown in the seal by escaping steam which is +generated by the hot sealer coming in contact with the cold food. +Another cause of sealing trouble lies sometimes in a poorly heated +capping steel or because it is not kept brightly tinned. To make a +proper seal the steel must be kept bright, hot and clean.</p> +<p>Also, be sure you buy good solder as there are inferior grades +that are too poor to flow when properly heated.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FROZEN PRODUCTS</b></p> +<p>Watch all jars and cans that have been subjected to a freeze. If +the cans or jars do not burst the only harm done is a slight +softening of the food tissues. In glass jars after freezing there +is sometimes a small crack left which will admit air and +consequently bacteria.</p> +<p>Sometimes cans and jars tip over in the wash boiler during +sterilizing. This is caused by using a false-bottom which is too +low or because it is not well perforated. Or it may be due to the +fact that the jar was not well packed and so may be too light in +weight.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XII' id="CHAPTER_XII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> +<h3>GETTING READY TO DRY</h3> +<br> +<p>For various reasons women have not taken so kindly to drying +fruits and vegetables as they have to canning these foods.</p> +<p>One woman said to me: "I like the canning because I can come to +a demonstration and see the whole process carried through from +start to finish. The drying of strawberries cannot be completed in +sixteen minutes as the canning is." And another woman said: "What I +do not like about drying is having the stuff standing round the +house somewhere for so many hours. I like to get things in the jars +and out of sight."</p> +<p>These two objections seem to be expressed more than any other. +And in addition there is a third objection to drying: "I want my +prepared food ready to use on a minute's notice. I can quickly open +a can of my fruit and vegetables and there it is ready. With my +dried things I have to allow time for soaking and cooking." This we +will have to admit is true. But what weight have these three +arguments against the many advantages of drying?</p> +<p>When we study the history of food preservation we find that +drying was practiced before canning, pickling or preserving. I know +my grandmother successfully dried quantities of things.</p> +<p>Vegetable and fruit drying have been little practiced for a +generation or more, though there have been some thrifty +housekeepers who have clung to their dried corn, peas, beans and +apples. A friend of mine says: "Why, dried corn has a much better, +sweeter taste than your canned stuff. I would rather have one +little dish of my delicious dried corn than two big dishes of your +canned corn."</p> +<p>Drying, I think we will all admit, does not and cannot take the +place of canning fruits and vegetables in glass or tin. Drying and +canning are twin sisters, and always go hand in hand.</p> +<p>The ideal arrangement for all homes, whether on the farm, in the +village, in the town or in the city, is to have an ample supply of +canned food for emergencies and quick service, and an equally ample +supply of dried foods when meals are planned beforehand and there +is time enough for the soaking and cooking of the dried foods.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE ADVANTAGES OF DRYING</b></p> +<p>When we come right down to facts, drying has many advantages +over canning.</p> +<p>The process is very simple, as you will see. The cost is slight. +In almost every home the necessary equipment, in its simplest form, +is already at hand. There is no expense for glass jars or tin cans, +and with ordinary care there is no loss of products, as there may +be in handling glass jars or from spoilage. The actual work +requires less time and less skill than canning and the dried +products when properly prepared are just as good as the canned +ones—some say better.</p> +<p>One special thing in favor of drying is the little storage space +needed. You can often reduce 100 pounds of fresh product to ten +pounds by drying, without any loss of food value and with little +loss of flavor.</p> +<p>Dried products can be moved more conveniently than glass jars or +tin cans, for they are usually reduced to from one-third to +one-fifth of the original bulk.</p> +<p>Another valuable thing about drying is that the little odds and +ends one would scarcely bother to can may be dried in the oven as +you go about your housework.</p> +<p>I have often been asked the difference between the meaning of +the terms "evaporated," "dried," "desiccated" and "dehydrated." +These terms are used more or less interchangeably when applied to +foods from which the moisture has been removed. In a general way, +however, "evaporated" products are those from which the moisture +has been removed through the agency of artificial heat; dried fruit +is that which has been exposed to the heat of the sun, though not +infrequently the term is applied to products handled in the +evaporator. The other terms are commonly applied to products that +have been evaporated by one of the various patented processes in +which equipment of some special design has been used.</p> +<p>To avoid any confusion we will use the general term "dried" for +all products that have enough of the water removed to prevent +bacterial action, but which still retain the maximum food value, +color and flavor of the original product. And that is what we want +to accomplish when we attempt to dry.</p> +<p>How are we to remove the water and still retain food value, +color and flavor? There are three principal methods by which we can +do this. First, by artificial heat. Drying by artificial heat is +done in the oven or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays +suspended on the stove or in a specially constructed dryer built at +home or purchased.</p> +<p>Second, by the sun. Sun drying is done either out of doors in +the sun, under glass in sun parlors, or the products are hung in +the attic where the sun has free access.</p> +<p>Third, satisfactory drying may be done by an air blast from an +electric fan.</p> +<p>Of course any one of these may be used alone or two different +methods may be combined. You can start a product on the stove and +finish it in the sun, or <i>vice versa.</i></p> +<p>The simplest and yet the most effective drying may be done on +plates or dishes placed in the oven. It may be done on the back of +the kitchen stove with these same utensils while the oven is being +used for baking. In this way left-overs and other bits of food may +be dried with slight trouble while the stove is being used, and +saved for winter use. This method is especially effective for sweet +corn. A few sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a single +turnip, may be dried and saved.</p> +<p>To keep the heat from being too great, when drying in the oven +leave the oven door partly open. For oven use, a simple tray may be +made of galvanized-wire screen of convenient size, with the edges +bent up for an inch or two on each side. At each corner this tray +should have a leg an inch or two in length to hold it up from the +bottom of the oven and permit circulation of air round the +product.</p> +<p>Oven drying in a gas range is an effective method if the +temperature is kept even. An oven thermometer is a great +convenience, otherwise the temperature will have to be carefully +watched and the burners turned as low as possible. It is economy in +the end to purchase an oven thermometer, for then you can have the +temperature just right. It is best to start the temperature at 110 +degrees Fahrenheit and dry at 130 degrees. Never go over 150 +degrees.</p> +<p>If you wish to dry in the oven over the kerosene stove, place +soapstones over each burner to prevent the heat from becoming too +intense. Turn the burners very low until the stones are thoroughly +heated. You can turn off the burners completely after the desired +temperature is reached and it will be maintained from the heat of +the stones for five or six hours. If more time than that is +required for the drying, it may be necessary to light the burners +again before the end of the process. The products should be turned +constantly, so that they may dry evenly.</p> +<p>When using any oven for drying you can cover the oven racks with +cheesecloth and spread the products on them. Always have the racks +two or three inches apart to allow free circulation of air.</p> +<p>An effective dryer for use over a stove or range may easily be +made at home. For the frame use strips of wood a half inch thick +and two inches wide. The trays or shelves are made of +galvanized-wire screen of small mesh tacked to the supports. +Separate trays sliding on strips attached to the framework are +desirable. This dryer may be suspended from the ceiling over the +kitchen stove or range or over an oil, gasoline or gas stove, and +it may be used while cooking is being done. If an oil stove is used +there must be a tightly fitting tin or galvanized-iron bottom to +the dryer, to prevent the fumes of the oil from reaching and +passing through the material which is to be dried. A bottom of this +kind may be easily attached to any dryer, homemade or commercial. A +framework crane makes it possible for this dryer to be swung to one +side when not in use.</p> +<p>A larger kind of homemade stove dryer can be made. This is a +good size: base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The lower part +or supporting framework, six inches high, is made of galvanized +sheet iron, slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with two +ventilating holes in each of the four sides. The frame which rests +on this base is made of strips of wood one or one and a half inches +wide. Wooden strips, an inch and a quarter wide and three inches +apart, serve to brace the sides and furnish supports for the +trays.</p> +<p>In a dryer of the dimensions given there is room for eight +trays. The sides, top and back are of galvanized-iron or tin +sheets, tacked to the framework, though thin strips of wood may be +used instead of the metal. Small hinges and a thumb latch are +provided for the door. Galvanized sheet iron, with numerous small +holes in it, is used for making the bottom of the dryer. To prevent +direct heat from coming in contact with the product and also to +distribute the heat by radiation, a piece of galvanized sheet iron +is placed two inches above the bottom. This piece is three inches +shorter and three inches narrower than the bottom and rests on two +wires fastened to the sides.</p> +<p>The trays are made of wooden frames of one-inch strips, to which +is tacked galvanized-wire screen. Each tray should be three inches +shorter than the dryer and enough narrower to allow it to slide +easily on the supports when being put in or taken out.</p> +<p>In placing the trays in the dryer push the lower one back as far +as it will go, leaving a three-inch space in front. Place the next +tray even with the front, leaving the space at the back. Alternate +all the trays in this way to facilitate the circulation of the +heated air. It is well to have a ventilating opening, six by two +inches, in the top of the dryer to discharge moisture. The trays +should be shifted during the drying process to procure uniformity +of drying.</p> +<p>Several types of stove dryers are on the market. One of these +has a series of trays in a framework, forming a compartment. This +is placed on top of the stove. Another is a shallow metal box which +is filled with water. This is really a water-bath dryer. This dryer +or dehydrator can be used on either a gas or coal range. A +thermometer is necessary in order to maintain the right +temperature. The slices of vegetables or fruit are placed on the +tray with the thermometer, and the dryer does the work.</p> +<p>Commercial dryers having their own furnaces may be bought at +prices ranging from $24 to $120. Some of these, in the smaller +sizes, may be bought without furnaces and used on top of the +kitchen stove. The cost is from $16 upward.</p> +<p>Sun drying has much to recommend it. There is no expense for +fuel, no thermometer is needed, and there is no danger of +overheating the fruits or vegetables.</p> +<p>For sun drying of fruits and vegetables, the simplest way is to +spread the slices or pieces on sheets of plain paper or lengths of +muslin and expose them to the sun. Muslin is to be preferred if +there is danger of sticking. Trays may be used instead of paper or +muslin. Sun drying requires bright, hot days and a breeze. Once or +twice a day the product should be turned or stirred and the dry +pieces taken out. The drying product should be covered with +cheesecloth tacked to a frame for protection from dust and flying +insects. If trays are rested on supports placed in pans of water, +the products will be protected from crawling insects. Care must be +taken to provide protection from rain, dew and moths. During rains +and just before sunset the products should be taken indoors.</p> +<p>To make a cheap tray for use in sun drying, take strips of wood +three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches wide for the sides +and ends. To form the bottom, laths should be nailed to these +strips, with spaces of one-eighth of an inch between the laths to +permit air circulation. A length of four feet, corresponding to the +standard lengths of laths, is economical. Instead of the laths +galvanized-wire screen with openings of one-eighth or one-quarter +of an inch, may be used. In using wire the size of the tray should +be regulated by the width of wire screen obtainable. The trays +should be of uniform size, so that they may be stacked together for +convenience in handling.</p> +<p>A small homemade sun dryer, easily constructed, is made of light +strips of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of galvanized-wire +screen and some cheesecloth. A convenient size for the glass top is +eighteen by twenty-four inches. To hold the glass make a light +wooden frame of strips of wood a half inch thick and one inch wide. +This frame should have legs of material one by one and a half +inches, with a length of twelve inches for the front legs and +eighteen inches for those in the rear. This will cause the top to +slope, which aids in circulation of air and gives direct exposure +to the rays of the sun. As a tray support nail a strip of wood to +the legs on each of the four sides, about four inches below the top +framework and sloping parallel with the top. The tray is made of +thin strips of wood about two inches wide and has a galvanized-wire +screen bottom. There will be a space of about two inches between +the top edges of the tray and the glass top of the dryer, to allow +for circulation of air.</p> +<p>Protect both sides, the bottom and the front of the dryer with +cheesecloth, tacked on securely and snugly, to exclude insects and +dust without interfering with circulation. At the rear place a +cheesecloth curtain, tacked at the top but swinging free below, to +allow the tray to be moved in and out. Brace the bottom of this +curtain with a thin strip of wood, as is done in window shades. +This curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons when the tray +is in place. If you have a sunny, breezy attic you can hang your +drying trays there.</p> +<p>The use of an electric fan is an effective means of drying. As +there is no danger of the food scorching, the fan proves as +effective as the sun for drying.</p> +<p>Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed on trays one foot wide +and three feet long. These trays are stacked and the fan placed +close to one end, with the current of air directed lengthwise along +the trays. The number of trays to be used is regulated by the size +of the fan. Drying by this process may be done in twenty-four hours +or less. With sliced string beans and shredded sweet potatoes a few +hours are sufficient if the air is dry.</p> +<p>Of importance equal to proper drying is the proper packing and +storage of the finished product. Use baking-powder and coffee cans +and similar covered tins, pasteboard boxes with tight-fitting +covers, strong paper bags, and patented paraffin paper boxes, which +may be bought in quantities at comparatively low cost.</p> +<p>A paraffin container of the type used by oyster dealers for the +delivery of oysters will be found inexpensive and easily handled. +If using this or a baking-powder can or similar container, after +filling adjust the cover closely. The cover should then be sealed. +To do this paste a strip of paper round the top of the can, +covering the joint between can and cover for the purpose of +excluding air. Pasteboard boxes should be sealed by applying melted +paraffin with a brush to the joint.</p> +<p>If a paper bag is used the top should be twisted, doubled over +and tied with a string. Moisture may be kept out of paper bags by +coating them, using a brush dipped into melted paraffin. Another +good precaution is to store bags in an ordinary lard pail or can or +other tin vessel having a closely fitting cover.</p> +<p>The products should be stored in a cool, dry place, well +ventilated and protected from rats, mice and insects. In localities +where the air is very moist, moisture-proof containers must be +used. It is good practice to use small containers, so that it will +not be necessary to leave the contents exposed long after opening +and before using.</p> +<p>A very good plan is to pack just enough fruit or vegetables for +one or two meals in each container. This will lessen the chance of +large quantities being spoiled. For convenience label all +packages.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIII' id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a> +<h2><b>CHAPTER XIII</b></h2> +<h3>HOW TO DRY FRUITS</h3> +<br> +<p>Having decided to add the accomplishment of drying to your other +housewifely arts, you have given some thought and study to the +subject of driers. You now know whether you prefer sun, artificial +or fan drying. You have either made or bought some kind of a drier. +Little other equipment is needed.</p> +<p>A few good paring knives, some plates, and if possible some +cutting or slicing device to lighten the work of preparation are +all that are necessary. A sharp kitchen knife will serve every +purpose in slicing and cutting fruits for drying, if no other +device is at hand. The thickness of all slices of fruit should be +from an eighth to a quarter of an inch. Whether sliced or cut into +strips the pieces should be small, so as to dry quickly. They +should not, however, be so small as to make them hard to handle or +to keep them from being used to advantage in preparing dishes for +the table, such as would be prepared from fresh products. Berries +are dried whole. Apples, quinces, peaches and pears dry better if +cut into halves, rings or quarters.</p> +<p>Cleanliness is essential. A knife blade that is not bright and +clean will discolor the product on which it is used.</p> +<p>Winter apples should be chosen for drying when possible, as +sweet apples and early varieties are not so well adapted to the +purpose. The Northern Spy, the Baldwin and the Ben Davis give a +good-flavored dried product. Most early varieties lack sufficient +firmness of texture for the best results. On the other hand, some +comparatively early kinds, such as Gravenstein and Porter, are +considerably prized in some sections.</p> +<p>To prepare them for drying, apples are peeled, cored, trimmed +and sliced one quarter of an inch thick. Be sure to cut out all +worm holes, decayed spots and other blemishes. Defects are easily +cut out with an ordinary straight-back, sharp-pointed knife having +a blade two and a half to three inches long.</p> +<p>To prevent discoloration, as fast as the fruit is prepared dip +it into a weak salt solution—three level teaspoonfuls of salt +to one gallon of water. After all the apples are prepared, remove +surplus moisture and put on trays, water-bath drier or whatever +device you are using.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO REGULATE THE HEAT</b></p> +<p>Start with the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually +raise it to 130 degrees and do the drying at that temperature. It +is important to know the degree of heat in the drier, and this +cannot be determined very accurately except by using a thermometer. +Inexpensive oven thermometers can be bought or an ordinary +thermometer can be suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not +used the greatest care should be given to the regulation of the +heat. The temperature in the drier rises rather quickly and the +product may scorch unless close attention is given to it.</p> +<p>The reason sun drying is popularly believed to give fruits and +vegetables a sweeter flavor probably is that in the sun they never +are scorched, whereas in the oven or over a stove scorching is +likely to happen unless one is very careful. An oven or dairy +thermometer is a good investment. If you do not have a thermometer +test the heat by the air feeling warm to the hand. The product +should never be so hot that it cannot be grasped in the hand. In +order to prevent the fruit from burning where artificial heat is +used and to keep it from sticking to the drier by remaining in +contact with it too long, stir the fruit occasionally. To insure +the most uniform drying in sun drying, the fruit also should be +stirred occasionally.</p> +<p>Remember that if trays with metal bottoms are used for drying, +they should be covered with cheesecloth to prevent acid action. +Oven racks may be covered with either cheesecloth or heavy wrapping +paper.</p> +<p>The interval between stirring varies with the type of drier +used, with the condition of the fruit and with the degree of heat +maintained. Make the first stirring within two hours after the +drying is begun. After that examine the product from time to time +and stir often enough to prevent scorching or sticking and to +insure uniform drying. Use a wooden paddle for stirring. Where +several trays or racks are placed one above the other, it is +necessary to shift the trays from time to time, so the upper tray +goes to the bottom and the bottom tray to the top.</p> +<p>The time necessary for drying fruit depends upon several +factors: The type and construction of the drier; the depth to which +the fruit is spread; the method of preparing, whether sliced, +quartered or whole; the temperature maintained; and weather +conditions, whether bright and sunny or cloudy and damp.</p> +<p>If the atmosphere is heavy and damp the drying is retarded. +Under some conditions it is hardly possible thoroughly to dry +fruit.</p> +<p>There is possibly no step in the entire drying process that +requires better-trained judgment than the matter of knowing when +the fruit is sufficiently dried. A little experience will soon +teach this.</p> +<p>The fruit should be so dry that when a handful of slices is +pressed together firmly into a ball the slices will be "springy" +enough to separate at once upon being released from the hand. No +fruit should have any visible moisture on the surface. As the dried +apples, pears, peaches and apricots are handled they should feel +soft and velvety to the touch and have a pliable texture. You do +not want fruit so dry that it will rattle. If fruits are brittle +you have dried them too much.</p> +<p>After the apples and all other fruits are dried they must go +through another process, called "conditioning." The best way to +"condition" fruits is to place them in boxes or cans and pour them +from one container into another once a day for three or four +successive days. By doing this you mix the fruit thoroughly and +give to the whole mass an even degree of moisture. Pieces that are +too dry will absorb moisture from those that are too moist.</p> +<p>You may lose a whole bag or jar of dried products if you neglect +the conditioning, for if one moist piece goes into that bag all is +lost. Moisture breeds mold and mold means decay.</p> +<p>Ask yourself these questions: "Do I ever lose any dried +products? Are my dried products when soaked and cooked as near like +the original fruit as possible?" If you lose products and if your +dried fruits are tasteless you had better start the conditioning +process. For with this one step added to your drying you need lose +no dried products, and you need not dry the fruits to the brittle +stage, as you must of necessity do when you put them away +immediately.</p> +<p>After you have poured the dried products back and forth every +day for three or four days as an additional precaution, reheat the +dried fruit to 140 degrees just long enough—about thirty +minutes—to allow the heat to penetrate throughout the +product.</p> +<p>Two kinds of moths stand out prominently among insects that +attack dried fruits and vegetables. They are much more likely to +get into the fruit during the process of drying than to find their +way through boxes into the stored products. This applies +particularly to drying in the sun. The Indian-meal moth is the most +destructive of these insects. It is about three-eighths of an inch +long and has a cloaked appearance, one-third gray and the rest +copper-brown. The fig moth is about the same size, but dark, +neutral gray. A minute, flattened chocolate-brown beetle usually +accompanies these moths and does considerable damage. Both of the +moths deposit their eggs on fruit when it is on the drying +racks—usually at dusk or after dark, for these insects are +not fond of daylight.</p> +<p>It takes from three to ten days for the eggs to hatch into +whitish or pinkish grublike caterpillars, and from five to ten +weeks from the laying of the eggs before more moths appear to lay +another lot of eggs. A number of "broods" or generations are +produced yearly, so if a few of these moth eggs are stored away on +dried fruits or vegetables hundreds of caterpillars are produced +and many pounds of valuable material may be destroyed during the +winter if the products are stored in a warm room. Dried fruits +stored in warm, dark bins or in sacks offer especially favorable +places for the development of these destructive moths.</p> +<p>It is evident that the larger the package, the greater the +chance of a few eggs doing much damage. Small cartons or containers +confine the injury from these moths to small quantities of +material; for if the containers are closed tightly the insects +cannot easily escape from them and infest other packages which may +not have been infested previously.</p> +<p>If you are drying by sun and the products are not thoroughly dry +at night, finish the process on the stove. If you desire to carry +it over to the next day screen the drying racks early in the +evening and fasten down the cheesecloth. With these precautions and +with proper storage, no danger ordinarily need be feared from these +insects. The additional precaution of heating the dried product to +140 degrees for thirty minutes sterilizes it if already +infested.</p> +<p>Though not necessary, tin cans or glass jars make good +receptacles for storage of dried fruits or vegetables. Pasteboard +boxes with tight covers, stout paper bags and patented paraffin +paper cartons also afford ample protection for dried products when +protected from insects and rodents. The dried products must be +protected from outside moisture, and will keep best in a cool, dry, +well-ventilated place. These conditions, however, are difficult to +obtain in the more humid regions, and there moisture-tight +containers should be used. If a small amount of dried product is +put in each receptacle, just enough for one or two meals, it will +not be necessary to open a container, the contents of which cannot +be consumed in a short time. If a paper bag is used the upper part +should be twisted into a neck, bent over and tied tightly with a +string. A further precaution is to place the small bags in a tin +container with a tightly fitting cover, such as an ordinary lard +can. All bags should bear a label.</p> +<p>Pears and quinces usually are prepared and dried exactly as are +apples. Pears are attractive when cut lengthwise into halves, with +the stem and calyx removed but the core left in. Or they may be +quartered. If sliced like apples the drying period is +shortened.</p> +<p>Peaches usually are dried unpeeled, but they are better if +peeled before drying. The first step in the preparation of peaches +is to split them open to remove the pit. To do this, cut completely +round the peach in the line of the suture with a sharp knife. The +cut must be complete, for tearing of the flesh will make the +finished product less attractive. If the fruit is to be peeled the +paring should be done before it is cut open to remove the pit.</p> +<p>To facilitate the removal of the skin, dip the peaches in a +kettle of boiling water for one and a half minutes; then plunge +directly into cold water, after which the skins can be easily +slipped off. After the pit has been removed, lay on drier pit side +up. The juice of the fruit will collect in the pit or "cup" and +will add to the flavor and quality of the dried peaches. The +peaches can be cut into smaller pieces if you wish to lessen the +drying period.</p> +<p>Plums and apricots are not peeled, but are cut into halves, the +pits removed and dried in the same way as peaches. Small, +thin-fleshed varieties of plums are not suitable for drying.</p> +<p>When drying cherries always remove the stems. The pits may or +may not be removed. The best product for later cooking or eating +has the pit removed, though large quantities of juices are lost in +the pitting unless you provide some way of saving and utilizing +it.</p> +<p>A prune is simply a plum having certain qualities not possessed +by all plums. All prunes are plums, but not all plums are prunes. +The final test as to whether a plum is a prune is the ability to +dry without fermenting with the pit still remaining in the fruit. +If a plum cannot dry without fermentation unless the pit is +removed, it is not a prune. Prunes for drying, like other fruits, +should be fully ripe.</p> +<p>Prunes are merely washed and then dried without removing the +pits. The fruit is dry when the skin is well shrunken. The texture +should be firm but springy and pliable enough to yield readily when +pressed in the hand. The drying should not be continued until the +individual prunes rattle as they are brought in contact with one +another in handling. Prunes must be conditioned before storing.</p> +<p>In drying, prunes shrink about two-thirds in weight—that +is, for every three pounds of fresh fruit you get one pound of +finished product.</p> +<p>Smaller fruits, such as red and black raspberries, blackberries, +huckleberries, dewberries, strawberries and blueberries, are simply +washed and then put to dry. Berries must not be dried too hard; if +too much moisture is removed they will not resume their original +form when soaked in water. But the material must be dried +sufficiently or it will mold. Haven't you often tasted extremely +seedy dried berries? They were dried until they rattled. Stop the +drying as soon as the berries fail to stain the hand when +pressed.</p> +<p>To obtain the most satisfactory results soft fruits should be +only one layer deep on the drying trays.</p> +<p>Fruits contain about 80 to 95 per cent water and when dried +sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per cent of water, so it is +a good plan to weigh before and after drying. The product should +lose from two-thirds to four-fifths of its weight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN FRUIT DRYING</b></p> +<p>1. Thoroughly cleanse the product.</p> +<p>2. Prepare the product by slicing and so on.</p> +<p>3. Spread on trays; put in oven or put on commercial drier.</p> +<p>4. Stir occasionally.</p> +<p>5. Shift trays.</p> +<p>6. Test for completeness of drying.</p> +<p>7. "Condition" for three or four days. Sweet fruits may contain +more moisture without spoiling than those of low sugar content.</p> +<p>8. Heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for thirty minutes, to kill +all insects.</p> +<p>9. Pack immediately in available receptacles.</p> +<p>10. Label and store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FRUIT PASTES</b></p> +<p>Fruit pastes are delicious and can be dried.</p> +<p>1. Select, wash, prepare fruit.</p> +<p>2. Cook until soft; stir.</p> +<p>3. Add sugar to sweeten.</p> +<p>4. Continue cooking until very thick.</p> +<p>5. Spread out flat by spoonfuls on oiled paper.</p> +<p>6. Dry in slow oven; finish drying over kitchen range.</p> +<p>7. Turn from time to time like griddle cakes.</p> +<p>Nuts of all kinds can be dried in these cakes, which may be left +whole or cut in strips with scissors.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANDIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p>1. Select product of uniform size and ripeness.</p> +<p>2. Wash; prepare in usual way.</p> +<p>3. Cut fruit in halves, quarters or smaller sections; cut +vegetables in narrow strips two and a half inches long.</p> +<p>4. Drop in a sirup cooked until it spins a thread. To prepare +ginger sirup, add a few roots of ginger to the sirup.</p> +<p>5. Cook until transparent.</p> +<p>6. Drain.</p> +<p>7. Dry in slow oven; Finish drying over kitchen range.</p> +<p>8. Roll in granulated sugar. (May be omitted for fruits.)</p> +<br> +<p>This method is recommended especially for candied apples, +peaches, pears and carrots.</p> +<p>In a properly constructed sun drier, all fruits will dry in from +3 to 12 hours, under normal summer conditions. Time depends on +dryness of atmosphere, sunshine and wind. Products dried in a sun +drier, no matter how crude, are superior to those dried in the open +without protection of some kind. Products dry more rapidly in high +altitudes than at sea level.</p> +<p>Racks in oven can be used. Plates or platters can be used in +oven. A stove drier hung over the stove can be used. A water-bath +or other commercial drier can be used with the stove.</p> +<br> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING FRUITS</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PRODUCT</td> +<td align='left'>PREPARATION</td> +<td align='left'>ARTIFICIAL HEAT<br> +TIME IN HOURS<br> +TEMPERATURE<br> +110° TO 130° F.</td> +<td align='left'>FAN—NO HEAT<br> +APPROXIMATE<br> +TIME IN HOURS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick. Drop +in salt solution, 3 level teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of water to +prevent discoloration.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apricots</td> +<td align='left'>Remove pits, but do not peel. Cut into halves and +dry, "cup" side up.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries, All Kinds</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; stem or hull.</td> +<td align='left'>4-5</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td align='left'>Remove stems. Pit or not, as desired. If pitted, +save and utilize juice.</td> +<td align='left'>2-4</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick. Or +peel, cut in halves lengthwise; remove stems and calyx.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, remove stones; cut in halves or smaller +pieces. If in halves, lay pit or "cup" side up to retain +juice.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='left'>Do not peel, but remove pits. Cut in halves and +dry, "cup" side up.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Prunes</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; do not pit.</td> +<td align='left'>5-7</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Quinces</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Rhubarb</td> +<td align='left'>Select young stems. Wash and cut into ½" +pieces, using very sharp knife. Do not remove skins, so the rhubarb +will retain pink color.</td> +<td align='left'>6-8</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIV' id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> +<h3>HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>Vegetable drying is a little more complicated than fruit drying, +just as vegetable canning is more complicated than fruit canning. +Blanching is an important part of the operation. It makes vegetable +drying satisfactory as well as easy and simple, just as it makes +vegetable canning possible.</p> +<p>However, there is one difference between blanching vegetables +for canning and blanching them for drying. After repeated +experiments it has been found that for drying purposes it is best +to blanch all vegetables in steam rather than in boiling water. In +vegetable canning we blanch almost all vegetables in boiling water, +usually steaming only the members of the "green" family.</p> +<p>So remember that for drying all vegetables are blanched in +steam. To do this steaming you can use your ordinary household +steamer, such as you use for steaming brown breads and suet +puddings, or you can simply place a colander over boiling water in +a kettle. Do not allow the colander to touch the water. If you are +fortunate enough to possess a pressure cooker, steam the vegetables +for drying in it.</p> +<p>Blanching is necessary for many reasons. It removes the strong +flavors, objectionable to many people. Beans, cabbage, turnips and +onions have too strong a flavor if dried without blanching. +Furthermore, it starts the color to flowing, just as it does in +canning. It removes the sticky coating round vegetables. Most +vegetables have a protective covering to prevent evaporation. The +removal of this covering by blanching facilitates drying. Blanching +also relaxes the tissues, drives out the air and improves the +capillary attraction, and as a result the drying is done in a much +shorter period. Products dry less rapidly when the texture is firm +and the tissue contains air.</p> +<p>Blanching checks the ripening processes. The ripening process is +destroyed by heating and this is to be desired for drying +purposes.</p> +<p>Blanching kills the cells and thus prevents the hay-like flavor +so often noticed in unblanched products. It prevents changes after +drying, which otherwise will occur unless the water content is +reduced to about five per cent.</p> +<p>Thorough blanching makes the product absolutely sanitary; no +insect eggs exist after blanching and cold-dipping.</p> +<p>There is one precaution that must be followed: Do not blanch too +long. Blanching too long seems to break down the cell structure, so +that the product cannot be restored to its original color, shape or +size. Follow the blanching time-table for drying just as carefully +as you follow the blanching time-table for canning.</p> +<p>After the blanching comes the cold-dip. For the benefit of new +canning and drying enthusiasts, let me explain that by "cold-dip" +we mean plunging the product immediately into a pan of very cold +water or holding it under the cold-water faucet until the product +is thoroughly cooled. Do not let the product stand in cold water, +as it would then lose more food value and absorb too much +water.</p> +<p>You can cold-dip the product without removing it from the +colander, strainer or steamer in which it is steamed. Plunge the +vessel containing the product into the cold water.</p> +<p>The cold-dipping checks the cooking, sets the coloring matter +which was started to flowing in the blanching process, and it makes +the product much easier to handle.</p> +<p>Let us now see just exactly what we must do when we want to dry +sweet corn, more of which is dried than of any other vegetable. All +other vegetables are dried in the same way as is corn, the only +difference being in the length of the blanching and drying +period.</p> +<p>All vegetables are prepared for drying just as they are prepared +for table use. When drying corn select ears that are young and +tender, and if possible freshly gathered. Products for drying +should be in the same perfect condition as you have them for table +use. If wilted and old it is not worth while drying them.</p> +<p>Remove the husks and the silk, and steam—on the +cob—for fifteen minutes. This sets the milk, besides doing +many other things which blanching by steam always does. After the +steaming, cold-dip the corn, and then cut it from the cob, using a +very sharp and flexible knife. Cut the grains fine, but only +halfway down to the cob; scrape out the remainder of the grains, +being careful not to scrape off any of the chaff next to the +cob.</p> +<p>When field corn is used, the good, plump cooking stage is the +proper degree of ripeness for satisfactory drying.</p> +<p>The corn should be thoroughly drained as this facilitates +drying. You can easily remove all surface moisture by placing the +corn between two towels and patting them.</p> +<p>It is now ready for drying. The corn may be dried in the sun, +but if so, it is advisable first to dry it in the oven for ten or +fifteen minutes and then finish the drying in the sun. Never +attempt sun drying in moist weather. The corn may be dried by +artificial heat, either on top of the stove or in the oven, using +either plates, oven-racks properly covered, or any commercial +dryer.</p> +<p>Work quickly after the blanching and cold-dipping and get the +corn heated as quickly as possible in order to prevent souring. You +get "flat-sour" often when canning if you do not work quickly +enough, and you will get sour vegetables in drying if you work too +slowly.</p> +<p>Where artificial heat is used begin at a lower temperature and +gradually increase it. As the corn is drying, stir it from time to +time and readjust the trays if necessary.</p> +<p>After the drying comes the test to determine whether or not the +corn is sufficiently dry. Vegetables at this point differ from +fruits. Fruits are dried only until leathery, whereas vegetables +are dried until they are bone-dry. They must crackle and snap.</p> +<p>This test is sometimes used to see if the product is +sufficiently dry: Put some of it in a covered glass jar with a +crisp soda cracker and keep them there for a few hours. If the +cracker loses its crispness and becomes soft and damp there is +still too much moisture in the product and it should be dried a +little longer to obtain the degree of dryness required.</p> +<p>After the corn is bone-dry it should, like all other vegetables +and fruits, be conditioned. This means to pour them from one bag or +box to another, once a day for three or four days. This enables you +to notice any moisture that may be left in the dried food. Foods +that show any traces of moisture should be returned to the drying +tray for a short time.</p> +<p>Notice Lima beans particularly, as they require a longer +conditioning period than most vegetables.</p> +<p>After the conditioning, in order to kill all insects and destroy +all eggs, it is advisable to place the vegetables on trays and heat +them in an oven for half an hour at a temperature of 140 degrees +Fahrenheit. Store directly from the oven.</p> +<p>Dried vegetables are stored just as are dried fruits—in +cans, cracked jars that cannot be used for canning, fiber +containers, cheesecloth, paper bags or paraffin containers.</p> +<p>In storing your dried products keep in mind these things: +Protection from moisture, insects, rats, mice, dust and light. If +you observe all these things it is unnecessary to have air-tight +containers.</p> +<p>All varieties of string beans can be dried, but only those fit +for table use should be used. Old, stringy, tough beans will remain +the same kind of beans when dried. There are two ways of preparing +string, wax or snap beans for drying:</p> +<p>1. Wash; remove stem, tip and string. Cut or break into pieces +one-half to one inch long; blanch three to ten minutes, according +to age and freshness, in steam; cold-dip. Place on trays or dryer. +If you have a vegetable slicer it can be used for slicing the +beans.</p> +<p>2. Prepare as above, then blanch the whole beans. After +cold-dipping, thread them on coarse, strong thread, making long +"necklaces" of them; hang them above the stove or out of doors +until dry.</p> +<p>Lima beans should be shelled from the pod and then blanched two +to five minutes if young and tender. If larger and more mature +blanch five to ten minutes.</p> +<p>Okra is blanched for three minutes. If the pods are young and +small, dry them whole. Older pods should be cut into quarter-inch +slices. Small tender pods are sometimes strung on stout thread and +hung up to dry.</p> +<p>Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, removing the +seed, drying in the air, and finishing the drying in the dryer at +130 degrees Fahrenheit. A more satisfactory method is to place +peppers in a biscuit pan in the oven and heat until the skins +blister; or to steam them until the skin softens, peel, split in +half, take out seed, and dry at 110 to 130 degrees. In drying +thick-fleshed peppers like the pimento, do not increase heat too +quickly, but dry slowly and evenly.</p> +<p>Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until +wilted and the drying finished in the dryer, or they may be dried +entirely in the sun.</p> +<p>Peppers often are dried whole. If large they can be strung on +thread; if small the whole plant can be hung up to dry.</p> +<p>Shell full-grown peas and blanch three to five minutes; cold-dip +and then spread in a single layer on trays to dry.</p> +<p>When drying the very tender young sugar peas, use the pod also. +Wash and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Blanch six minutes, cold-dip +and remove surplus moisture before drying. When drying beets always +select young, quickly grown, tender beets. Steam twenty to thirty +minutes, or until the skin cracks. Dip in cold water, peel and +slice into one-eighth to one-quarter inch slices. Then dry.</p> +<p>Carrots having a large, woody core should not be dried. Blanch +six minutes; cold-dip. Carrots are often sliced lengthwise into +pieces about one-eighth inch thick. Parsnips, kohl-rabi, celeriac +and salsify are prepared in the same way as are carrots.</p> +<p>Onions should be held under water while peeling and slicing to +avoid smarting of the eyes. They should be sliced into one-eighth +to one-quarter inch slices. Blanch five minutes, cold-dip, remove +superfluous moisture and dry. Leeks are handled as are onions.</p> +<p>Select well-developed heads of cabbage and remove all loose +outside leaves. Split the cabbage, remove the hard, woody core and +slice the remainder of the head with a kraut slicer or cutter or +with a large, sharp knife. Blanch five to ten minutes and cold-dip; +dry.</p> +<p>Spinach and parsley should be carefully washed. Steam, cold-dip +and dry. If the spinach is sliced the drying will be greatly +facilitated. Beet tops, Swiss chard and celery are prepared like +spinach.</p> +<p>Select sound, well-matured Irish potatoes. Wash and boil or +steam until nearly done. Peel and pass through a meat grinder or a +potato ricer. Collect the shred in layers on a tray and dry until +brittle. If toasted slightly in an oven when dry, the flavor is +improved somewhat; or boil or steam until nearly done, peel, cut +into quarter-inch slices, spread on trays, and dry until brittle. +Peeling may be omitted, but the product will be very much inferior +in flavor. Irish potatoes cannot be satisfactorily dried unless +they are first cooked; otherwise they will discolor.</p> +<p>All root vegetables must be thoroughly cleaned, otherwise an +earthy flavor may cling to them. One decayed root may seriously +affect several pots of vegetable soup.</p> +<br> +<p><b>GENERAL SUGGESTIONS</b></p> +<p>1. All vegetables should be completely dried in from two to +twenty-four hours.</p> +<p>2. Materials should be turned or stirred several times to secure +a uniform product.</p> +<p>3. If heat is used guard against scorching. The door is left +open if an oven is used; the temperature should be about 110 +degrees at the beginning and usually should not exceed 130 degrees. +Onions, string beans and peas will yellow at more than 140 +degrees.</p> +<p>4. A thermometer is essential to successful drying by artificial +heat.</p> +<p>5. It is impossible to give definite lengths of times for the +completion of sun drying, as this varies not only with different +products but with the weather. A sultry, rainy day is the worst for +drying.</p> +<p>6. Vegetables should be stone dry.</p> +<p>7. Succulent vegetables and fruits contain from 80 to 95 per +cent of water, and when dried sufficiently still retain from 15 to +20 per cent; so it is a good plan to weigh before and after drying +as a check. The product should lose from two-thirds to four-fifths +of its weight.</p> +<p>8. Work rapidly to prevent souring of vegetables.</p> +<p>9. Small vegetables, mature beans and peas and small onions may +be dried whole. Larger vegetables should be cut up so as to expose +more surface for drying.</p> +<p>10. The slicing, cutting and shredding should be done before +blanching, with the exception of corn, which is cut from the cob +after blanching.</p> +<br> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING VEGETABLES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PRODUCT</td> +<td align='left'>PREPARATION</td> +<td align='left'>BLANCHING BY STEAM, TIME ON MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>ARTIFICIAL HEAT TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° +F. APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS</td> +<td align='left'>FAN—NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>ASPARAGUS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash and cut into pieces</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>4 to 8</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEANS, GREEN STRING</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; remove stem, tip and string</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEANS, WAX</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; remove stem, tip and string; cut into pieces +or dry whole</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEETS</td> +<td align='left'>Leave skin on while steaming</td> +<td align='left'><a href='#Footnote_1_5'>[1]</a>20 to 30</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BRUSSELS SPROUTS</td> +<td align='left'>Divide into small pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CABBAGE</td> +<td align='left'>Remove all loose outside leaves; split cabbage and +remove woody core; slice or shred</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CARROTS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; slice lengthwise into pieces ⅛-inch +thick</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CAULIFLOWER</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; divide into small bunches</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CELERY</td> +<td align='left'>Wash carefully and remove leaves; slice</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CELERIAC</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; slice into ⅛-inch pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CORN, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Blanch on cob. From 12 ears of corn you should +obtain 1 pound dried corn</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>2 days</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>KOHL-RABI</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; slice into ⅛-inch pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>8 to 12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LEEKS</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into ½-inch strips</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>8 to 12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LIMA BEANS (YOUNG)</td> +<td align='left'>Shell</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LIMA BEANS (OLD)</td> +<td align='left'>Shell</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>MUSHROOMS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; cut into pieces</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>OKRA</td> +<td align='left'>Dry young pods whole. Cut old pods in +¼-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>ONIONS</td> +<td align='left'>Remove outside papery covering; cut off tops and +roots; slice thin</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PARSNIPS</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; cut into ½-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PEAS</td> +<td align='left'>Can be dried whole or put through grinder</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PEPPERS</td> +<td align='left'>Skin blistered in oven, steamed or +sun-withered</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, IRISH</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and rice them</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>2½</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, IRISH</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and slice them ¼-inch thick</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and rice them</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>2½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and slice them ¼-inch thick</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PUMPKINS AND SQUASH</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into ⅓-inch strips; peel; remove +seeds</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SPINACH</td> +<td align='left'>Wash thoroughly; can be sliced</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SALSIFY</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; cut into ½-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SWISS CHARD</td> +<td align='left'>Wash thoroughly; can be sliced</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>TOMATOES</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; slice after steaming to loosen skin</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>TURNIPS</td> +<td align='left'>Pare and slice thin</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_5' id="Footnote_1_5"></a> +<p>[1] Till skin cracks.</p> +<p>In a properly constructed sun drier vegetables will dry in from +3 to 12 hours under normal summer conditions. Products dried in a +sun drier are superior to those dried in the open without any +protection. Products dry more quickly in high altitudes than at sea +level.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XV' id="CHAPTER_XV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XV</h2> +<h3>EVERY STEP IN BRINING</h3> +<br> +<p>We have learned how to preserve fruit and vegetables by canning +and drying and now we are going to learn another method to preserve +foods, in which salt is used. We use this salt method for +vegetables. It is not adapted to fruits. We may pickle apples, +pears and peaches, but we ferment, brine and dry-salt only +vegetables.</p> +<p>This salt method is not a substitute for drying or canning, but +just an additional method we may employ. Every thrifty housewife of +to-day wants her shelves of canned foods, her boxes of dried foods +and her crocks of salted foods. Each kind has its proper function +to perform in the household. One cannot take the place of the +other.</p> +<p>For women on the farm salting is a salvation. In busy seasons +when canning and drying seem an impossibility, a great many +vegetables can be saved by this method in a very short time. The +labor required is very small, as no cooking is necessary. A good +supply of salt is the one necessity.</p> +<p>Besides the saving of time, salting saves jars, which are +absolutely necessary in canning. Old containers can be used if they +are thoroughly cleansed. The vegetables can be put in any +container, so long as it holds water and is not made of metal. +Metal containers should not be used. Old kegs, butter and lard tubs +if water-tight, stoneware jars or crocks, chipped preserve jars, +glass jars with missing covers and covered enamel buckets can all +be utilized. Avoid using tubs made of pitch or soft pine unless +coated with melted paraffin, as they impart a flavor to the +vegetables. Maple is the best.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THREE METHODS OF SALTING FOOD</b></p> +<p>There are three ways of preserving food by salting: First, +fermentation with dry salting; second, fermentation in brine or +brining; and third, salting without fermentation, or dry +salting.</p> +<p><b>Dry Salting.</b> Fermentation with dry salting consists in +packing the material with a small amount of salt. No water is used, +for the salt will extract the water from the vegetables and this +forms a brine. This is the simplest process of all three and is +used mostly for cabbage. To make sauerkraut proceed as follows: The +outside green leaves of the cabbage should be removed, just as in +preparing the head for boiling. Never use any decayed or bruised +leaves. Quarter the heads and shred the cabbage very finely. There +are shredding machines on the market, but if one is not available +use a slaw cutter or a large sharp knife.</p> +<p>After the cabbage is shredded pack at once into a clean barrel, +keg or tub, or into an earthenware crock holding four or five +gallons. The smaller containers are recommended for household use. +When packing distribute the salt as uniformly as possible, using +one pound of salt to forty pounds of cabbage. Sprinkle a little +salt in the container and put in a layer of three or four inches of +shredded cabbage, then pack down with a wooden utensil like a +potato masher. Repeat with salt, cabbage and packing until the +container is full or the shredded cabbage is all used.</p> +<p>Press the cabbage down as tightly as possible and apply a cloth, +and then a glazed plate or a board cover which will go inside the +holder. If using a wooden cover select wood free from pitch, such +as basswood. On top of this cover place stone, bricks or other +weights—use flint or granite; avoid the use of limestone, +sandstone or marble. These weights serve to keep vegetables beneath +the surface of the liquid. The proportion of salt to food when +fermenting with dry salt is a quarter pound of salt to ten pounds +of food. Do not use more, for the product will taste too salty.</p> +<p>Allow fermentation to proceed for ten days or two weeks, if the +room is warm. In a cellar or other cool place three to five weeks +may be required. Skim off the film which forms when fermentation +starts and repeat this daily if necessary to keep this film from +becoming a scum. When gas bubbles cease to rise when you strike the +side of the container, fermentation is complete. If there is a scum +it should be removed.</p> +<p>As a final step pour very hot melted paraffin over the brine +until it forms a layer from a quarter to a half-inch thick, to +prevent the formation of the scum which occurs if the weather is +warm or the storage place is not well cooled. The cabbage may be +used as soon as the bubbles cease to rise. If scum forms and +remains the cabbage will spoil. You may can the cabbage as soon as +bubbles cease to rise and fermentation is complete. To can, fill +jars, adjust rubbers and partly seal. Sterilize 120 minutes in +hot-water bath, or 60 minutes in steam-pressure outfit at five to +ten pounds pressure.</p> +<p>The vital factor in preserving the material by this method is +the lactic acid which develops in fermentation.</p> +<p>If the vegetables are covered with a very strong brine or are +packed with a fairly large amount of salt, lactic acid fermentation +and also the growth of other forms of bacteria and molds are +prevented. This method of preservation is especially applicable to +those vegetables which contain so little sugar that sufficient +lactic acid cannot be formed by bacterial action to insure their +preservation.</p> +<p>In the well-known method of vinegar pickling the acetic acid of +the vinegar acts as a preservative like the lactic acid produced by +fermentation. Sometimes brining precedes pickling in vinegar, and +often the pickling is modified by the addition of sugar and spices, +which add flavor as well as helping to preserve the fruit or +vegetables. In some cases olive oil or some other table oil is +added to the vinegar, as in the making of oil cucumber pickles.</p> +<p>Besides sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, +greens, kale and dandelions are adapted for fermentation with dry +salting. String beans should be young, tender and not overgrown. +Remove the tip ends and strings; cut or break into pieces about two +inches long. Wash the beet and turnip tops as well as all greens, +in order to remove dirt and grit. Weigh all products that are to be +salted.</p> +<p>For salting, a supply of ordinary fine salt, which can be +purchased in bulk for about two cents a pound, is most satisfactory +for general use. Table salt will do very well, but it is rather +expensive if large quantities of vegetables are to be preserved. +The rather coarse salt—known in the trade as "ground alum +salt"—which is used in freezing ice cream can be used. Rock +salt because of its coarseness and impurities should not be +used.</p> +<p>A weight must be used. The size of the weight depends on the +quantity of material being preserved. For a five-gallon keg a +weight of ten pounds will be sufficient, but if a larger barrel is +used a heavier weight will be needed. The weight should be +sufficient to extract the juices to form a brine, which will cover +the top in about twenty-four hours. If a brine does not form it may +be necessary to add more stones after the material has stood a +while.</p> +<p>There always will be more or less bubbling and foaming of the +brine during the first stages of fermentation. After this ceases a +thin film will appear which will rapidly spread over the whole +surface and quickly develop into a heavy, folded membrane. This +scum is a growth of yeast-like organisms which feed upon the acid +formed by fermentation. If allowed to grow undisturbed it will +eventually destroy all the acid and the fermented material will +spoil. To prevent mold from forming it is necessary to exclude the +air from the surface of the brine.</p> +<p>Perhaps the best method is to cover the surface—over the +board and round the weight—with very hot, melted paraffin. If +the paraffin is hot enough to make the brine boil when poured in, +the paraffin will form a smooth, even layer before hardening. Upon +solidifying, it forms an air-tight seal. Oils, such as cottonseed +oil or the tasteless liquid petroleum, may also be used for this +purpose. As a measure of safety with crocks, it is advisable to +cover the top with a cloth soaked in melted paraffin. Put the cover +in place before the paraffin hardens.</p> +<p>After sealing with paraffin the containers should be set where +they will not be disturbed until the contents are to be used. Any +attempt to remove them from one place to another may break the +paraffin seal and necessitate resealing.</p> +<p>Some vegetables which do not contain sufficient water are better +fermented by covering them with a weak brine. Those which are the +most satisfactory when fermented in this way are cucumbers, string +beans, green tomatoes, beets, beet tops, turnip tops, corn and +green peas. The general directions for this brining are as +follows:</p> +<p>Wash the vegetables, drain off the surplus water and pack them +in a keg, crock, or other utensil until it is nearly +full—within about three inches of the top of the vessel. +Prepare a weak brine as follows: To each gallon of water used add +one-half pint of vinegar and three-fourths of a cup of salt and +stir until the salt is entirely dissolved. The vinegar is used +primarily to keep down the growth of injurious bacteria until the +lactic-acid ferment starts, but it also adds to the flavor. Spices +may be added if desired.</p> +<p>The amount of brine necessary to cover the vegetables will be +equal to about one-half the volume of the material to be fermented. +For example, if a five-gallon keg is to be packed, two and one-half +gallons will be needed. It is best to make up at one time all the +brine needed on one day. A clean tub or barrel can be used for +mixing the brine. Pour the brine over the vegetables and cover. Set +the vessel and its contents away in a moderately warm room to +ferment.</p> +<p>When fermentation ceases, the container should be placed in a +cool cellar or storeroom and the surface of the liquid treated to +prevent mold. Before adding the paraffin or cottonseed oil, any +scum or mold which may have formed on the surface of the liquid +should be removed by skimming.</p> +<p>These general directions can always be followed with successful +results, but some modifications are desirable for certain +vegetables.</p> +<p><b>Cucumbers—Dill Style.</b> To pickle cucumbers wash the +cucumbers and pack into a clean, water-tight barrel, keg or crock. +On the bottom of the barrel place a layer of dill weed and a +handful of mixed spice. Add another layer of dill and another +handful of spice when the barrel is half full, and when almost +full, add a third layer. If a keg or crock is used, the amount of +dill and spice can be reduced in proportion to the size of the +receptacle. When the container has been filled to within a few +inches of the top, add a layer of covering material—beet +leaves or grape leaves—about an inch thick. If any spoilage +should occur on the surface, this layer will protect the vegetables +beneath. Press down with a clean board weighted with bricks or +stone.</p> +<p>Make the brine as given in the general rules. Add sufficient +brine to cover the material and allow it to stand twenty-four +hours. Then make air-tight. The time necessary for complete +fermentation to occur depends upon the temperature. In a warm place +five days to a week may suffice; in a cool cellar three to four +weeks.</p> +<p>The dill and spices may be omitted, in which case we then have +plain cucumbers.</p> +<p><b>String Beans.</b> Remove the ends and strings from the beans +and cut into pieces about two inches long; pack in the container; +cover with brine and ferment.</p> +<p><b>Green Tomatoes.</b> Green tomatoes should be packed whole and +prepared as cucumbers. The dill and spice may be added if +desired.</p> +<p><b>Beets.</b> Beets must be scrubbed thoroughly and packed +whole. If peeled or sliced before being fermented the beets lose +considerable color and flavor.</p> +<p><b>Beet Tops and Turnip Tops.</b> These should be washed +thoroughly and packed into the container without being cut up.</p> +<p><b>Peas.</b> Green peas should be shelled and packed in the same +way as string beans. It is advisable to use fairly small containers +for peas, so that the quantity opened up will be used before it has +a chance to spoil.</p> +<p><b>Corn.</b> Husk and clean the silk from the corn; wash and +place the ears on end in the jar, packing the jar nearly full. Pour +the brine over the ears; add cover and weights. Fermented corn has +a sour taste, which may not be relished if the corn is eaten alone. +For this reason it will be preferable in most cases to preserve +corn by canning, drying or by salting without fermentation. +Fermented corn, however, may be used in the preparation of some +dishes, such as chowders, omelets, and so forth, where its flavor +will be masked to some extent by the other ingredients. To some +people this peculiar acid taste of fermented corn is not at all +objectionable.</p> +<p><b>Salting Without Fermentation.</b> In this method the +vegetables are packed with enough salt to prevent fermentation or +the growth of yeasts or molds. The vegetables preserved most +satisfactorily by this method are dandelions, beet tops, turnip +tops, spinach, kale, chard, cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, +green peas and corn. The following directions should be +followed:</p> +<p>The vegetables should be washed, drained and weighed. The amount +of salt needed will be a quarter of the weight of the vegetables. +Kegs or crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a layer of +vegetables about an inch thick on the bottom of the container. +Cover this with salt. Continue making alternate layers of +vegetables and salt until the container is almost filled. The salt +should be evenly distributed so that it will not be necessary to +use more salt than the quantity required in proportion to the +weights of the vegetables that are used.</p> +<p>Cover the surface with a cloth, and a board of glazed plate. +Place a weight on these and set aside in a cool place. If +sufficient liquor to cover the vegetables has not been extracted +pour in enough strong brine—one pound of salt to two quarts +of water—to cover the surface round the corner.</p> +<p>The top layer of vegetables should be kept under the brine to +prevent molding. There will be some bubbling at first. As soon as +this stops, set the container where it will not be disturbed until +ready for use. Seal by pouring very hot paraffin over the +surface.</p> +<p>String beans should be cut in two-inch pieces. Peas should be +shelled. Cabbage should be shredded in the same way as for +sauerkraut. Corn, however, requires somewhat different treatment, +and the directions for salting it are as follows:</p> +<p><b>Salted Corn.</b> Husk the ears of corn and remove the silk. +Cook in boiling water for about ten minutes to set the milk. Cut +off the corn from the cob with a sharp knife. Weigh the corn and +pack in layers with a quarter its weight of fine salt, as described +above.</p> +<p>Some experts insist on blanching and cold-dipping all vegetables +for dry-salting without fermentation. They say that, though it is +not necessary, it makes the tissues softer and consequently they +are more easily penetrated by the salt. Furthermore, when preparing +these products for the table the salt soaks out more readily and +the products cook much more quickly if they have been blanched. So +where there is time it seems advisable to blanch for five minutes +for dry-salting.</p> +<p>If properly prepared and stored, fermented, brined and +dry-salted products will keep for a long time. It is absolutely +necessary to prevent mold from growing on the surface of the brine +of fermented vegetables, by the addition of paraffin or in some +other way. Protection of the surface of dry-salted vegetables is +desirable, but not necessary if the containers are covered to +prevent the evaporation of the brine. Most trouble with the +fermented or salted products may be traced to carelessness in +protecting the surface of the brine.</p> +<br> +<p><b>POINTS TO REMEMBER</b></p> +<p>These are the special things to remember about fermentation, +brining and dry-salting:</p> +<p>1. For fermentation, such as in making sauerkraut, use a quarter +pound of salt to ten pounds of food material. For every 100 pounds +of food add two and a half pounds of salt.</p> +<p>2. For brining use three-quarters of a cupful of salt and one +cupful of vinegar to each gallon of water.</p> +<p>3. For dry-salting use one pound of salt to four pounds of +food.</p> +<p>4. Do not use vinegar, pickle or pork barrels as containers for +salted foods unless they are very thoroughly scalded.</p> +<p>5. Thoroughly scald all containers, covers, weights and cloths +before using.</p> +<p>6. If using glass jars put a cork inside to press the food down. +If white vaseline is rubbed on the rubber rings the solution will +not get through rubber and be lost.</p> +<p>7. After adding salt or brine for fermented foods, cover the +food material with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth six inches +larger in diameter than the diameter of the container. Tuck this in +round the top of the food, cover with weight and adjust lid of +container.</p> +<p>8. During fermentation keep the cover on loosely until all +bubbles cease. Test by slightly knocking container to see if any +bubbles appear on the surface.</p> +<p>9. When you have made this test and discovered that the bubbling +has ceased, then it is time to protect the food from all organisms +which destroy lactic acid.</p> +<p>10. To protect the food cover with hot melted paraffin or liquid +oil.</p> +<p>11. If evaporation takes place, add water or brine to make up +the original amount of water.</p> +<p>12. When dry sealing is used let the product stand twenty-four +to thirty-six hours, then add strong brine to fill the containers. +The water from the vegetables usually only half fills the +containers.</p> +<h3>TABLE FOR PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY SALT</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>METHODS</td> +<td align='left'>VEGETABLES ADAPTED TO METHOD</td> +<td align='left'>AMOUNT OF SALT</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER INGREDIENTS NEEDED</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>I. Dry salting with fermentation.</td> +<td align='left'>Cabbage, which is converted by this method into +sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, greens, kale and +dandelions.</td> +<td align='left'>¼-lb. salt to 10 lbs. food or 2½ +lbs. salt to 100 lbs. food.</td> +<td align='left'>No other.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>II. Fermentation with brine.</td> +<td align='left'>Cucumbers, string beans, green tomatoes, beets, +beet tops, corn and green peas.</td> +<td align='left'>¾-cup salt, 1 gallon water, 1 cup vinegar +for brine. Amount of brine required is equal to ½ volume of +food.</td> +<td align='left'>Dill and spices can be added. 1 lb. dry dill or 2 +lbs. green dill and 1 oz. spices for a>4-gallon crock.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>III. Dry salting without fermentation.</td> +<td align='left'>Dandelions, beet tops, turnip tops, spinach, kale, +chard, cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, green peas, and +corn.</td> +<td align='left'>25 lbs. salt to 100 lbs. of food. Salt should be +¼ weight of vegetable.</td> +<td align='left'>Blanch and cold-dip vegetables for five minutes +before dry salting.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVI' id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVI</h2> +<h3>CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT</h3> +<br> +<p>Many farmers seem to have more trouble with the curing of meats +than with the slaughtering. This part of the work is indeed very +important as it determines whether one will have good tasting cured +meat or meat that is too salty or possibly that is far removed from +the original taste of the raw product.</p> +<p>It is worth every farmer or farmerette's attention to spend some +time on this problem as it pays so well in the resulting, good +tasting meat. Why not have a superior grade of home-cured meat as +easily as a poor grade? Work carefully and accurately done will +produce good results while work slovenly or carelessly done can +produce nothing but poor results. To cure meat so that it is not +only delicious but has good keeping qualities is an art and +accomplishment worth striving for. A pride in this work is just as +fine and worth while as the housewife's pride in her culinary skill +or the pride of any other professional in his or her line of work. +To-day we are thinking of food and its problems as never before and +it behooves us all to put more time, thought, care and skill on all +things that pertain to foods. And as meat is such an essential item +in our diet, meat problems should receive their due attention.</p> +<p>All meat that is to be cured should always be thoroughly cooled +and cut into the desired convenient sizes before it is put into the +brine or packed in dry salt.</p> +<p>The pieces most commonly used for curing are the ham, shoulder +and bacon pieces from pork. From beef we use the cheaper, tougher +cuts such as the plate, shoulder and chuck ribs. Mutton is seldom +cured and preserved.</p> +<p>The ham should be cut off at the hock joint, the spare ribs +taken out of the bacon, and the ragged edges trimmed off smooth. If +ragged edges or scraggy ends are left these portions will become +too dry in the curing and will practically be wasted.</p> +<p>After all the animal heat is removed from the meat and it is +properly cut it is then ready for the curing. If salt is put on the +meat before the animal heat is all removed, it will have a tendency +to shrink the muscles and form a coating on the outside which will +not allow the generating gases to escape. Meat should never be in a +frozen condition when the salt is added as the frost will prevent +the proper penetration of the brine and uneven curing will be the +result.</p> +<br> +<p><b>METHODS OF CURING MEAT</b></p> +<p>The two most common methods of curing meat are first the brine +or sugar cure process and second the dry-curing process. For +general farm use the brine cured process is the better. It requires +less time, less effort and not such an exacting place for the work. +On most farms it is impossible to secure a desirable place in which +to do the dry-curing as the meat is exposed to rats, cats, flies +and other insects. The dry-curing requires considerable time to rub +and salt the meat at different times while the only attention that +is necessary for brine-curing is to properly prepare and pack the +meat in the vessel and prepare the brine for it.</p> +<br> +<p><b>UTENSILS FOR CURING</b></p> +<p>If possible use a round container for the curing. It is easier +to put the meat in tightly, and the space can be used to better +advantage. A hardwood barrel of some kind is excellent. Sirup, +molasses or lard barrels which have been thoroughly cleaned are +very satisfactory. If you use a vinegar or an oil barrel it should +be well burned on the inside before using. Stone crocks or jars are +sometimes used but they are expensive and cumbersome to handle +besides the constant danger of loss of brine from breakage.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PRESERVATIVES</b></p> +<p>For curing the meat the farmer usually uses salt, salt peter, +white or brown sugar or molasses. These are the necessary +preservatives. The others such as boracic acid, borax and soda are +often used for sweetening the brine and to keep it from spoiling +but are not absolutely essential. The salt extracts moisture and +acts as a preservative. The sugar or molasses imparts a nice flavor +and has a tendency to keep the muscle tissue soft in contrast to +the salt, which has a tendency to make it hard and dry. So the salt +and sugar have two distinct functions to perform, the one to harden +and preserve, the other to soften and sweeten. If you have a +favorite recipe that has proved satisfactory and you want to use +sorghum or molasses instead of sugar add one pound more of the +molasses. If you have been accustomed to using 2 pounds of sugar +then use 3 pounds of the other sweetening.</p> +<p>Salt peter is not absolutely necessary as far as the preserving +is concerned but it helps to hold the red color of the lean meat. +If salt peter is not used the lean meat will be gray in color. It +may possibly be a little tenderer if the salt peter is not used as +the salt peter tends to harden the meat. Chili salt peter can be +substituted in place of salt peter, if only four-fifths as much is +used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE SUGAR BRINE CURE</b></p> +<p>All formulas for the sugar brine cure are practically the same +varying only a little in the proportions of sugar, salt and salt +peter. If you have a formula that you have tried for years and have +found it to be satisfactory there is no reason you should attempt a +new one. But for those who want to try a different formula or +recipe I will give you this reliable one that is widely used and +indorsed by several agricultural colleges.</p> +<p>The container should be scalded thoroughly. Sprinkle a layer of +salt over the bottom and over each layer of meat as it is packed +in, skin down. When full, cover meat with boards and weight down +with a stone so that all will be below the brine, which is made as +follows:</p> +<p>Weigh out for each 100 pounds of meat, 8 pounds of salt, 2 +pounds of sugar (preferably brown) or 3 pounds of molasses, and 2 +ounces of salt peter. Dissolve all in 4 gallons of water. This +should be boiled, and when thoroughly cooled, cover the meat. Seven +days after brine is put on, meat should be repacked in another +barrel in reverse order. The pieces that were on top should be +placed on the bottom. The brine is poured over as before. This is +repeated on the fourteenth and twenty-first days, thus giving an +even cure to all pieces. Bacon should remain in the brine from four +to six weeks, and hams six to eight weeks, depending on the size of +the pieces. When cured, each piece should be scrubbed with tepid +water and hung to drain several days before smoking; no two pieces +should come in contact. For all curing always use dairy salt and +<i>not table</i> salt, as the latter contains starch to keep it dry +and this starch may cause the meat to spoil. If you carefully +follow these directions you will have delicious sugar-cured hams +and bacon.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CORNED BEEF</b></p> +<p>It is desirable to have an ample supply of corned beef on hand. +For this any part of the beef may be used but the parts usually +selected are the plate, rump, cross-ribs and brisket, which are the +tougher cuts of the meat. The brisket and plate are especially good +because of the character of the fat, which is somewhat like a +tissue. Cut all around the meat to about the same thickness, so +that it will make an even layer in the barrel. It is best to remove +the bone, although this is not necessary. Be sure to start the +pickling or curing while the meat is perfectly fresh, but well +chilled. Do not wait like some farmers do until they think the meat +is beginning to spoil and then salt it down just to save it. Allow +ten pounds of dairy salt to each 100 pounds of meat. Sprinkle a +layer of the salt in the bottom of the crock, barrel, or whatever +container is used. Have the salt about one-fourth of an inch in +depth. After the layer is in the bottom of the container put the +cuts of meat in as closely as possible, making the layer five or +six inches in thickness, then put on another layer of salt, +following that with another layer of meat. Repeat until the meat +and salt have all been packed in the barrel, care being taken to +reserve salt enough for a good layer on the top. Cover the meat +with a board and weight down with a stone and <i>not</i> an +<i>iron</i> weight. Do not allow any meat to project from the salt +or mold will start and the brine will spoil in a short time. Let +the meat stand over-night.</p> +<p>Prepare a brine by boiling 7 pounds salt, 3 pounds brown sugar +or 6 pounds molasses, 2 ounces baking soda, 2 ounces salt peter and +4 gallons water for every 100 pounds of meat. This quantity of +brine should be sufficient to cover that amount.</p> +<p>Remove any scum that rises to the surface and filter the hot +brine through muslin. Set the brine aside, best over-night, to +become perfectly cold before using. In the morning tip the +container in which the meat is packed so that all liquor which has +separated from the meat over night may drain off. Cover the meat +with the cold brine. Put the container in a cool place. The curing +will be more satisfactory if the meat is left at a temperature of +about 38 degrees F. Never let the temperature go above 50 degrees +F. and there is some risk with even a temperature of 40 degrees F. +if it is continuous. The sugar or molasses in the brine has a +tendency to ferment in a warm place.</p> +<p>After about five days the meat should be overhauled and +repacked, putting the pieces which were previously on the bottom on +top. Pour back the same brine, and five days later repeat the +overhauling. This may seem like some trouble and possibly look like +a useless waste of time but it is well worth while as it insures a +more rapid and uniform curing of the meat.</p> +<p>When unpacking the meat watch the brine to see that it is not +ropy or moldy. If you find either condition existing remove the +meat and rinse each piece with cold water and after scalding the +container pack the meat as at first with a little salt. Scald and +skim the brine and after it is cold pour it on the meat as before. +You can use corned beef if necessary after a week in the cure, but +it is not thoroughly cured until it has been from 20 to 30 days in +the brine. If kept for sixty days it will be salty enough to need +freshening before cooking.</p> +<p>If the meat has been corned during the winter, and is to be kept +until summer, watch the brine closely during the spring as it is +more likely to spoil then than at any other time.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PLAIN SALT PORK</b></p> +<p>Rub each piece of meat with dairy salt, and pack closely in a +container. Let stand over-night. The next day weigh out ten pounds +of salt and two ounces of salt peter for each 100 pounds of meat, +and dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. Pour this brine, +when cold, over the meat, cover, and weight the meat down to keep +it under the brine. The pork should be kept in the brine until +used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SMOKING CURED MEATS</b></p> +<p>Of course many farmers never attempt to smoke their cured meats +but use them directly from the brine but if possible it is more +satisfactory to smoke them before using for several reasons. First, +the process of smoking helps to preserve the meat. The creosote +formed by the combustion of the wood closes the pores of the meat +to a great extent thus excluding the air and helping it to keep and +at the same time makes the meat objectionable to insects. In the +second place, pickled or cured meats taste better and are more +palatable if smoked. Of course the smoking must be properly done +and the right kind of fuel must be used.</p> +<p><b>The Smokehouse and the Smoke.</b> It is not necessary to have +a regular smokehouse—although it is a delightful addition to +any farm. Here again a community meat ring is of great advantage. +One smokehouse will answer for many families. This is the ideal +arrangement and it can easily be managed if you are progressive and +anxious enough to supply your family with delicious meat the year +around saving time and money.</p> +<p>If, however, you have to do your own smoking and smoke only a +small quantity at a time a barrel or box will answer. Overheating +of the meat must be guarded against.</p> +<p>Green hickory or any of the hardwoods or maple should be used +for the smoking. Pine or any other resinous woods should not be +used as they give a disagreeable flavor to the meat. If it is +impossible to get hardwood use corncobs rather than soft wood. The +corncobs will leave a dirty deposit on the meat, which is carbon. +It is not objectionable only from the standpoint of "looks." The +meat which you are going to smoke should be removed from the brine +the day before the smoking. A half hour soaking in cold water +prevents a crust of salt from forming on the outside. Do not hang +the meat so that any two pieces touch as this would prevent uniform +smoking.</p> +<p>Always start with a slow fire so as to warm the meat up +gradually. Thirty-six to forty-eight hours of heat as near 120 +degrees F. as possible will be sufficient under most +circumstances.</p> +<p><b>How to Store Smoked Meats.</b> A dry, cool cellar or attic +where there is good circulation is a good place for storage. If the +meat is to be used soon the meat can hang without coverings but for +long keeping you will have to wrap it when cold in waxed paper and +then in burlap, muslin or canvas bags and then hang it, after it is +tied very tightly to prevent insects from getting in, in a room +with a cool uniform temperature.</p> +<p>Some farmers get satisfactory results by wrapping the meats in +strong bags and then burying them in oat bins.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>Frequently when animals are butchered on the farm there are +often wholesome portions of the carcass that are not used. All +trimmings, cheeks, liver, tongue, breast and other pieces can be +made into bologna, headcheese or some other form of sausage. +Sausage making is an art worth acquiring. There is always a good +demand for fresh and smoked country sausage, so if you wish to sell +some you will have no trouble in finding a market for your product +if it is a good one.</p> +<p>To make sausage you should have a meat grinder, which is an +absolute essential on every farm. If you do not have one already +then buy a No. 22 or No. 32.</p> +<p>In addition to the grinder you will need a stuffer attachment +which costs very little. A knife, cord, string, a clean tube and +casings or muslin bags will complete your equipment. The muslin +bags can be of any size but the easiest to handle are 12 inches +long and 2 inches in diameter. If the sausage is stuffed into these +bags they must be paraffined for home use. If you do not want to +bother with casings or bags put the sausage in stone crocks or tin +pans with a layer of lard or paraffin on top.</p> +<p>The best sausage is made by using 3 parts of lean meat to one of +fat. When using the grinder, distribute the lean and fat meat as +uniformly as possible.</p> +<p>You are not necessarily limited to pork sausage, for there are +many other delicious varieties you can make. They vary in the +different kinds of meat used and in the different seasonings and +spices.</p> +<p>Breakfast sausage has bread added to it; frankfurters are smoked +pork sausage in casings; liver sausage has pork and beef or veal +and bread in it; and blood sausage, as its name suggests, has blood +(preferably from a hog) added to it. Then there is tomato sausage +which is made of pulp from fresh tomatoes, pork sausage and +crackers. Summer sausage is made in the winter and kept for use +during the summer. After being dried and cured it will keep for +months. Brain sausage is delicious. To make it calves' brains are +mixed with lean pork. Cambridge sausage has rice added to it.</p> +<p>Headcheese is usually made from the hog's head but odds and ends +also can be used not only from pork but from beef and veal.</p> +<p>Scrapple usually means the head and feet of hogs but it can be +made from any hog meat. It is a good food as it uses cornmeal. It +makes a change from fried mush and most men working on a farm +relish it.</p> +<p>Sausage can be made from mutton mixed with pork in much the same +way as beef is used for similar purposes. A general formula would +be 2 parts of mutton to 3 parts pork with seasonings.</p> +<p>With a plentiful supply of good home-cured and home-smoked +meats, together with several varieties of sausages, you can feel +you are well equipped to feed your family with its share of meat. +Everything will have been utilized, nothing will have been wasted. +You produced your own meat, you slaughtered and cured and smoked it +and put all trimmings and other "left-overs" into appetizing food +for your family and you have saved money. You have utilized things +at hand and required no transportation facilities. And best of all, +you have the very finest in the land for your family and that gives +one a perfectly justifiable pride in the work accomplished.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVII' id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVII</h2> +<h3>PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS</h3> +<br> +<p>As one-half of the yearly egg crop is produced in March, April, +May and June consumers would do well to store enough at that time +to use when production is light. Fifty dozen eggs should be stored +for a family of five to use during the months of October, November, +December and January, at which time the market price of eggs is at +the highest.</p> +<p>When canning them <i>the eggs must be fresh</i>, preferably not +more than two or three days old. This is the reason why it is much +more satisfactory to put away eggs produced in one's own chicken +yard or one's neighbor's.</p> +<p>Infertile eggs are best if they can be obtained—so, after +the hatching exclude the roosters from the flock and kill them for +table use as needed.</p> +<p><i>The shells must be clean.</i> Washing an egg with a soiled +shell lessens its keeping quality. The protective gelatinous +covering over the shell is removed by water and when this is gone +the egg spoils more rapidly. Use the soiled eggs for immediate use +and the clean ones for storage.</p> +<p><i>The shells also must be free from even the tiniest crack.</i> +One cracked egg will spoil a large number of sound eggs when packed +in water glass.</p> +<p>Earthenware crocks are good containers. <i>The crocks must be +clean and sound.</i> Scald them and let them cool completely before +use. A crock holding six gallons will accommodate eighteen dozen +eggs and about twenty-two pints of solution. Too large crocks are +not desirable, since they increase the liability of breaking some +of the eggs, and spoiling the entire batch.</p> +<p>It must be remembered that the eggs on the bottom crack first +and that those in the bottom of the crock are the last to be +removed for use. Eggs can be put up in smaller crocks and the eggs +put in the crock first should be used first in the household.</p> +<br> +<p><b>METHOD OF STORING</b></p> +<p>There are many satisfactory methods of storing eggs. The +commercial method is that of cold storage and if it were not for +this method winter eggs would be beyond the average purse.</p> +<p>The fact that eggs have been held in cold storage does not +necessarily mean that they are of low quality. Carefully handled +cold-storage eggs often are of better quality than fresh local eggs +that have been improperly cared for.</p> +<p>In the home they may be packed by several methods: Salt, oats or +bran; covering them with vaseline, butter, lard, paraffin or +prepared ointments; immersion in brine, salicylic acid, water glass +(sodium silicate) or limewater.</p> +<p>Any of these methods will keep the eggs for short periods if +stored in a cool place. The salt, oats and bran are very +satisfactory. The ointments also are satisfactory. The water glass +and limewater will keep eggs without loss for a year. However, it +is not wise to put down more eggs than is necessary to tide over +the period of high price.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WATER GLASS METHOD</b></p> +<p>"Water glass" is known to the chemist as sodium silicate. It can +be purchased by the quart from druggists or poultry supply men. It +is a pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It is diluted in the +proportion of one part of silicate to nine parts of distilled +water, rain water, or other water. <i>In any case, the water should +be boiled and then allowed to cool.</i> Half fill the vessel with +this solution and place the eggs in it, being careful not to crack +them. The eggs can be added a few at a time until the container is +filled. Be sure to keep about two inches of water glass above the +eggs. Cover the crock to prevent evaporation and place it in the +coolest place available from which the crock will not have to be +moved. Wax paper covered over and tied around the top of the crock +can be used. Inspect the crock from time to time and replace any +water that has evaporated with cool boiled water.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIMEWATER METHOD</b></p> +<p>Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is +slightly less expensive than water glass. A solution is made by +placing two or three pounds of unslaked lime in five gallons of +water, which has been boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the +mixture to stand until the lime settles and the liquid is clear. +The eggs should be placed in a clean earthenware jar or other +suitable vessel and covered to a depth of two inches with the +liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse in clean, cold water and +use immediately.</p> +<p>If using the limewater method add a little of the lime sediment +to insure a constantly saturated solution. If a thin white crust +appears on the limewater solution it is due to the formation of +calcium carbonate coming in contact with the air and consequently +does no harm.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANDLING EGGS AT HOME</b></p> +<p>If you purchase the eggs that are to be stored it is safer to +candle them. Examining eggs to determine their quality is called +"candling." Every one knows that some eggs are better than others, +but the ease with which the good ones can be picked out is not +generally understood. The better the quality of eggs, the surer the +housewife can be that they will keep satisfactorily.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOMEMADE CANDLER</b></p> +<p>The equipment for candling usually consists of either a wooden, +a metal, or a cardboard box and a kerosene lamp or an electric +light. A very inexpensive egg candler for home use can be made from +a large shoe-box or similar cardboard box. Remove the ends of the +box, and cut a hole about the size of a half-dollar in one side. +Slip the box over the lamp or electric bulb, darken the room, hold +the egg, with the large end up, before the opening in the box and +its quality can easily be judged.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SIGNS OF A GOOD EGG</b></p> +<p>When held before the opening of the candle, good eggs will look +clear and firm. The air cell (the white spot at the large end of +the eggs) should be small, not larger than a dime, and the yolk may +be dimly seen in the center of the egg. A large air cell and a +dark, freely moving yolk indicate that the egg is stale.</p> +<p>If the shell contents appear black or very dark, the egg is +absolutely unfit for food. If you are in doubt about the quality of +any eggs you are candling break a few of them into a dish and +examine them. This is an excellent way to learn to know how good +and bad eggs look when they are being candled.</p> +<p>Discard all eggs that have shrunken, loose contents, a watery +appearance, cracked and thin shells. Eggs of this description will +not keep and are apt to spoil the eggs close around them. Any egg +that floats in the solution should be discarded.</p> +<p>When packing eggs whether in salt, oats, or in solution place +them with small end down. When packing them in salt, oats, etc., do +not allow any two eggs to touch.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING THE EGGS</b></p> +<p>One gallon of water glass as purchased will make enough +preservative to preserve from 75 to 100 dozen eggs.</p> +<p>Three gallons of either water glass solution or limewater +solution will preserve from 200 to 240 dozen eggs according to the +size of the eggs and the shape of the container.</p> +<p>The cost of preserving eggs by the water glass method is about +one cent per dozen eggs, not considering the cost of the container. +The lime water method is still cheaper.</p> +<p>The following gives the sizes of jars with approximate capacity +for eggs and the amount of water glass solution required to cover +the eggs:</p> +<p>1 gallon jar—40 eggs, 3½ pints of solution or +1¾ qt.</p> +<p>2 gallon jar—80 eggs, 8 pints of solution or 2 quarts.</p> +<p>3 gallon jar—120 eggs, 11 pints of solution or 5½ +quarts.</p> +<p>4 gallon jar—160 eggs, 14½ pints of solution or +7¼ quarts.</p> +<p>5 gallon jar—200 eggs, 18 pints of solution or 9 +quarts.</p> +<p>6 gallon jar—216 eggs, 22 pints of solution or 11 +quarts.</p> +<p>10 gallon jar—400 eggs, 36 pints of solution or 18 +quarts.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO USE PRESERVED EGGS</b></p> +<p>When the eggs are to be used, remove them as desired, rinse in +clean, cold water, and use immediately.</p> +<p>Eggs preserved in water glass can be used for soft boiling or +poaching up to November. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole +in the large end of the shell with a needle to keep them from +cracking, as the preservative seals the pores of the shell and +prevents the escape of gases, which is possible in the strictly +fresh egg.</p> +<p>They are satisfactory for frying until about December. From that +time until the end of the usual storage period—that is until +March—they can be used for omelettes, scrambled eggs, +custards, cakes and general cookery. As the eggs age, the white +becomes thinner and is harder to beat. The yolk membrane becomes +more delicate and it is correspondingly difficult to separate the +whites from the yolks. Sometimes the white of the egg is tinged +pink after very long keeping in water glass. This is due, probably, +to a little iron which is in the sodium silicate, but which +apparently does not injure the eggs for food purposes.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVIII' id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> +<h3>HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>Towards the end of the canning season most housewives have used +every available glass jar and tin can and hesitate about purchasing +a new supply. They have dried and brined many products and yet they +feel, and rightly so, that they would like still more vegetables +for winter use. There still remains another method that they may +employ to provide themselves with a plentiful supply of vegetables +and these vegetables can be in the fresh state too. Neither canned, +dried, pickled or salted but fresh.</p> +<p>Canning, drying, pickling and salting are essential and +necessary but they can not take the place of storage. To keep +vegetables in their natural state is the easiest and simplest form +of food preservation. Of course, you must take proper precautions +against freezing and decay. If you do this you can have an abundant +supply of many kinds of fresh vegetables all winter, where climatic +and living conditions will permit. Storage costs but little money +and little effort and yet it is very satisfactory.</p> +<p>There are many vegetables that can be stored to good advantage. +They are: Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Beans, Celery, Carrots, Chicory +or Endive, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Lima Beans, Onions, +Sweet Potatoes, Squash (Winter), Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, +Tomatoes, Turnips.</p> +<p>To get good results in any kind of storage, you must observe +four things:</p> +<ul> +<li>1. Proper ventilation.</li> +<li>2. Proper regulation of temperature.</li> +<li>3. Sufficient moisture.</li> +<li>4. Good condition of vegetables when stored.</li> +</ul> +<p>There are six different ways to store vegetables. They are: +cellar storage, pit storage, outdoor cellar or cave storage, attic +storage, sand boxes and pantry storage.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CELLAR STORAGE</b></p> +<p>We will first of all consider cellar or basement storage. One of +the most convenient places for the storage of vegetables is a cool, +well-ventilated and reasonably dry cellar underneath the house. +This cellar must have windows or some method of ventilation, must +not be too warm and not so cold that food will freeze. If there is +proper ventilation there can be some dampness without injury to the +vegetables. If your cellar or basement floods easily or has water +standing in it anywhere it should not be used for vegetable +storage.</p> +<p>If there is a furnace in the cellar or basement a small room as +far as possible from the heating plant should be partitioned off. +Do not build a room in the middle of the cellar, for two sides of +the room should consist of outside walls.</p> +<p>If possible have two outside windows for proper regulation of +the temperature and for good ventilation. If you cannot have two +windows have one.</p> +<p>A very good arrangement for constant circulation of air consists +in having a stove-pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of +the window to admit cold air. One of the upper panes of the window +can be removed to allow for the escape of warm air. That is, of +course, if the window is made of nine or twelve small panes of +squares of glass. In severely cold weather this upper pane can be +replaced or the opening stuffed up in some way.</p> +<p>If you do not have an old stove-pipe you can make a wooden flue +of old boards or old discarded boxes.</p> +<p>Most cellars and basements are now made with concrete floors. +The ideal floor for storage purposes is an earth floor. However, we +can put two or three inches of sand on our concrete floors and get +good results. Sprinkle the sand with water from time to time.</p> +<p>Put the vegetables that are to be stored in boxes, baskets, +barrels or crates. Use containers that hold only two or three +bushels apiece. If larger boxes or barrels are used there is always +danger of heating and decay. Of course, proper precautions should +be taken against mice.</p> +<p>An excellent way to prevent wilting of crops and shrinkage is to +put moist leaves, oak or maple, in the containers with the +vegetables. Moist sand is sometimes used but it is much heavier to +handle than the leaves. It is no difficult matter to rake the lawn +when you are ready to store the vegetables.</p> +<p>The vegetables that are adapted for cellar storage are beets, +cabbage, carrots, celery, parsnips, potatoes, salsify and +turnips.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PIT STORAGE</b></p> +<p>There are two kinds of pits that may be used for storage. Those +that are not frost-proof and those which are frost-proof.</p> +<p>Some vegetables are not injured by being held in a frozen +condition during the winter months. Cabbage is not injured by +moderate frost. Cabbage and parsnips will stand freezing and a +little thawing, so they can be put in pits or better still, boxes +or barrels set into the ground may be used. Make the pit mound +shaped. If the earth is mounded around the box, barrel or pit, +surface water cannot run in.</p> +<p>If using this kind of storage do not store the products until +both the ground and the products are frozen solid. The idea is to +keep the vegetables frozen or to have very few freezings and +thawings, and those few should be gradual.</p> +<p>After the pit has been made or the box or barrel has been set +into the ground and filled with vegetables, it should be covered +first with a piece of burlap or carpet, then with a mouse-proof +board cover and finally with straw or similar material. When taken +from the pit, the vegetables can be thawed out over night in cold +water, after which they can be kept in the cellar for a short +length of time.</p> +<p>The pits for keeping vegetables free from frost must be +carefully and thoughtfully made, but they are cheap and are very +useful and practical when caves or cellars are not convenient.</p> +<p>The frost-proof pit for storing vegetables should always be +placed in as well-drained a place as possible. A shallow excavation +should be made from one to two feet deep, four feet wide and as +long as desired. Line the pit with straw, hay or leaves, then place +the vegetables in a conical pile on the straw. Cover the vegetables +with six inches of the material used in making the lining. This is +covered with three or four inches of earth. The straw is allowed to +extend up through the earth at the top of the pile, thus assuring +ventilation.</p> +<p>When it becomes colder add more covering to the pit by another +layer of straw and a layer of earth. In very cold climates a layer +of manure or corn stalks will afford protection against frost.</p> +<p>It is well to make several small pits rather than one larger one +for the reason that when a pit has once been opened it is difficult +to protect the remaining vegetables from frost.</p> +<p>It is advisable to store several varieties of vegetables in one +pit so that when each pit is opened you have a variety of +vegetables. If you follow this plan separate the various crops by +using straw or leaves.</p> +<p>Pits are entered by chopping a hole through the frozen earth at +one end, large enough to reach into or crawl into. After the +vegetables have been obtained keep the hole stuffed and covered +most carefully and deeply with old sacks and straw.</p> +<p>If the smaller pits are used, a decidedly better arrangement, +take out all the vegetables in the pit and those that are not +needed for immediate consumption can be placed in the cellar +storage room, or other cool place, until needed. Do not use those +pits if you live where winter rains are abundant as the pits will +become water soaked and the vegetables will suffer more or less +decay.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OUTDOOR CELLAR STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Outdoor cellars or caves may be cheaply built for more or less +temporary use or they may be very expensively built of concrete, +brick, or clay blocks. Of course, the latter are permanent storing +places and offer perfect storage for potatoes, carrots, cabbages, +parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify.</p> +<p>The objectionable features of indoor cellar storage is that such +storage does not furnish ideal conditions for keeping the +vegetables fresh for any great length of time.</p> +<p>The objectionable feature to the pit storage is the +inaccessibility to these pits during severe weather.</p> +<p>The outdoor cellar or cave overcomes both these objections. The +outdoor cellar or cave is an underground structure, preferably +built in a hillside and fully covered with earth except at one end +only where the entrance is located. If there are doors at both ends +it is almost impossible to prevent freezing in very cold weather. +The cave door should fit perfectly and there should be a hatchway +or door over the steps leading down to the cave door.</p> +<p>A very satisfactory inexpensive cellar can be made by digging an +excavation about 5 ft. deep and in this erecting a frame by setting +posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform +height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place +rafters. Board up completely with the exception of the entrance. +Cover the whole with dirt or sod and in cold climates add a layer +of straw or fodder.</p> +<p>A ventilation must be provided in the roof at the back end. A +sewer tile with the bell end up makes a very good flue. A dirt +floor is satisfactory as it contains moisture. If there is any +seepage use a drain tile to carry it off.</p> +<p>The more pretentious permanent cellars are provided with air +spaces to furnish insulation; are provided with large ventilation +shafts through the roof and cold air intakes under the floor. +Thorough drainage is obtained by placing a line of tile around the +outside wall and also by having the air intake serve as a drain for +surplus water that might get into the cave. The floor is cement or +concrete. Such a cave is expensive but is a permanent structure and +a good addition to any farm or estate. If properly made it is +possible to maintain a temperature of 34 to 38 degrees without much +fluctuation during the winter months. This kind of storage is not +only adapted for vegetables but apples as well. It is better +adapted to the Northern, Eastern and Western States than to the +Southern States, where it is likely to be warm at the time the +vegetables are ready for storage. When making the cave, have it as +near as possible to the kitchen door. Sometimes caves are made so +that they can be entered from the house, cellar or porch.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ATTIC STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Some vegetables such as onions, squashes, sweet potatoes and +pumpkins can be stored in the attic in crates which allow free +circulation of air. They must be absolutely free from bruises and +must be well ripened and cured. To cure the vegetables expose them +to the air for a few days in the shade. Remove the tops of onions +before storing. The attic is much better for storing onions than +the basement. Squashes are susceptible to cold and moisture, so are +suitable for the attic.</p> +<p>Be very careful in handling the squashes to prevent breaking the +stems off. Watch pumpkins and squash carefully and at the first +sign of decay, use immediately or can.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SAND BOX STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Sand boxes in cellars, pits or caves are desirable for beets, +turnips, kohl-rabi, carrots, winter radishes and rutabagas. The +sand keeps them cold and prevents evaporation. Kohl-rabi should be +tender when stored.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PANTRY STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Where there is no attic or where it is inconveniently reached, +the products that are adapted to a very dry place can be stored on +the pantry shelves or in a dry cellar near the furnace. They are +onions, squashes, pumpkins and sweet potatoes.</p> +<p>The keeping qualities of all these vegetables, no matter what +storage is used, depends chiefly upon their condition when placed +in storage. All products to be stored must be mature, but not +overgrown. Root crops should be dry while the ground is in good +working condition. All vegetables should be allowed to become +surface dry before placing them in storage.</p> +<p>White or Irish potatoes, especially, should not be exposed to +bright sunlight any length of time. Only vegetables free from +disease or injury should be stored. Any that are damaged can be +used immediately, or can be canned or dried.</p> +<p>Further particulars for the storing of fresh vegetables are +given in the following tables.</p> +<b>TABLE FOR VEGETABLE STORAGE</b> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>VEGETABLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>HOW BEST STORED</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>PREPARATION FOR STORAGE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT FOR FAMILY OF TWO</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>REMARKS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Irish Potatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept cool with a slight +degrees of moisture. Use either cellar or cave methods. No potato +should be more than four ft. from air if stored in barrels, boxes, +crates or bins.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Potatoes must be dug before the +ground is crusted with frost. Frosted potatoes will spoil, one +after another. Impossible to sort out frosted potatoes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10 to 15 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Remember Irish potatoes are ruined +by freezing. Potatoes should be kept absolutely dark to prevent +greening by light. Never buy potatoes in sacks that show wet places +due to a frosted potato.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Sweet Potatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Require warmth and dryness. In +crates or on shelves in warm dry room. Can be spread on the floor +in the room above the kitchen where they will have plenty of heat, +especially for the first 2 or 3 weeks after they are dug.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>When the sweet potatoes are dug they +should be allowed to lie in the sun and wind for 3 or 4 hours so as +to become perfectly dry. They must be well ripened and free from +bruises. Can be kept on shelves in a very dry place and they need +not be kept specially cold. Sweet potatoes keep best when they are +showing just a little inclination to sprout. However, if they start +growing the quality is greatly injured.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If you are in doubt as to whether +the sweet potatoes are matured enough for storage, cut or break one +end and expose it to the air for a few minutes. If the surface of +the cut or break dries, the potato is mature. But if moisture +remains on the surface, it is not fully ripened. In places where +there are early frosts, sweet potatoes should be dug about the time +the first frost is expected, without considering maturity.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Carrots</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Are best stored in sand in cellars, +caves or pits; or in tightly covered boxes or crocks. Must be kept +cold and evaporation must be prevented, for otherwise they become +wilted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until the +weather is quite cool; then be pulled, the tops cut off and then +stored.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If you store carrots in the cellar +and it is extremely dry cover them with a little moistened +sand.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Celery</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be rooted in earth in a cellar +or cave and if watered occasionally will keep fresh until +Christmas. The soil, earth or sand, in which the celery is set +should be 2 or 3 inches deep. This soil must not be allowed to +become dry.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until the +weather is quite cool.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 dozen good plants or bunches.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Another way to store celery is to +bank it to the top with earth; cover the tops with boards, straw, +or leaves and allow it to remain where it has grown until wanted +for use. Another way is to dig a trench 12 inches wide and deep +enough to correspond with the height of the celery, then lift the +celery and pack it in this trench with some soil about the roots. +When the weather becomes colder, cover the trench with boards +nailed together in the form of a V shaped trough and over this +inverted trough put a layer of soil. The ends of this trough should +be left open for ventilation until freezing sets in, then close +these openings with straw, old bags or soil. If the freeze ceases +and there is a spell of warmer weather open the ends slightly for +ventilation. When the celery is first stored in the trenches the +soil about the roots of the celery should be watered and and if the +weather is dry after the celery is put in the trenches, pour some +water around the roots to keep the celery crisp and fresh.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Cabbage</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can be wrapped in paper with the +outer leaves left on for immediate use and stored in ventilated +barrels or large crates in the cellar. But as few cellars are cool +enough to keep cabbage in good condition it is more advisable to +store it in a long shallow pit in the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Is not injured by moderate frost +while in the pit but should not be disturbed while frozen. The pit +should be long and narrow. Pull the cabbage, stem, root and all, +and then laid with heads down about 3 heads in width can be placed +in the pit. Cover lightly with soil and as the weather becomes +colder add a little more soil until there is a layer 6 or 7 inches +thick over the cabbage. Keep the ends of the pit partially open for +ventilation until the weather becomes very cold.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>25 heads.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Late varieties of cabbage are the +only ones fit for storage. It is advisable to dig a shallow ditch +around the pit so that all surplus water can be carried off.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Chickory or Endive</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Store in a box or bed of moist sand +in the cellar. Put roots in an upright position with the sand +coming just to their tops. Water the sand occasionally. Sometimes a +covering of straw is added to blanch the tender growth of shoots, +which is the part used as food.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Late in the fall lift the roots out +and carefully trim off the leaves without injury to the heart.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 doz. roots.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Chickory or endive is grown the same +as carrots or salsify. It is useful in the winter for it furnishes +the needed green that is so scarce in winter.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Beets</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be placed in too large +piles in the cellar as they are inclined to mold. Can also be +buried in pits in open ground.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until very +cool weather; then should be pulled, the tops cut off and then +stored in the cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 bushel.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Beets are not so much inclined to +shrivel as carrots.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Salsify or Vegetable Oyster</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pack roots in box with moist sand in +cellar or as they are not injured by remaining in the ground all +winter they can be left there. Enough for immediate use may be dug +in the autumn and the others dug as desired.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>When stored in the cellar after the +salsify is pulled, trim off the tops and then stand them in an +upright position with the sand even with the tops.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 to 100 roots.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Is injured by too much freezing and +thawing, so should remain frozen.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Parsnips</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can be stored just as salsify or be +allowed to remain in the ground until wanted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Those that are to be stored in the +cellar can remain in in the garden until the weather is quite cool, +then prepare and store like salsify.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 bushel in the cellar and one in +the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Parsnips are best kept frozen or +fresh in the cellar as too much freezing and thawing destroys +them.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Turnips</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be stored where temperature is +low or sprouting will result. Moderate freezing does no harm while +in the storage pit but they must not be disturbed while +frozen.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pull; cut tops off and store in sand +in cellars or caves, or in pits, or in tightly covered boxes or +crocks.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>The object is to keep them cold and +prevent evaporation. It is a good plan to store a portion in the +cellar so as to be available during the time that those buried in +the pit are "frozen in" and not so easily accessible.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Onions</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Require a cool dry place. Attic +excellent.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Before storing, cure them by +exposing to the air for a few days in the shade. Dryness is +absolutely essential. A well cured onion should be firm and not +readily dented at the base of the tops by the tip of the thumb when +held in the hand.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 bushels.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Onions are best for storage if +topped about 1½ inches long.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Cauliflower</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Planted in shallow boxes of soil in +light place in the cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be too mature.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Store as many as possible.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If kept well watered they will +mature for winter use.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Brussels Sprouts</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Planted in soil in cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be too mature.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>According to family tastes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Keep watered and will mature.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Ground Cherries or Husk Tomatoes +Kohl-rabi, Winter Radishes, Rutabagas</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be stored for some weeks in the +husk in their layers in a dry place free from frost. Best stored in +sand in cellars, cares or pits.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept cold to prevent +evaporation.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>According to the family tastes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Kohl-rabi must be tender when +stored.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Horse-radish Pumpkins</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be kept in the ground where +grown all winter. Must be kept frozen as thawing injures it. Best +kept on shelves in a very dry place. Can be kept on shelves in +furnace room.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be ripened and cured and free +from bruises.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 ordinary sized pumpkins.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Need not be kept especially +cold.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Squashes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Susceptible to cold and moisture, so +store in a dry place where temperature will be between 50 and 60 +degrees.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Care must be taken that stem is not +broken.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10 ordinary sized hubbard +squashes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Whenever squashes or pumpkins in +storage show signs of decay, the sound portion should be +immediately canned.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cool cellar or cave; can be wrapped +in any absorbent paper preferably without printing upon it, and +laid upon shelves to ripen. The paper absorbs the moisture given +off by the tomatoes and causes them to ripen uniformly. If cellar +is dry or well ventilated, tomatoes can be kept a month or six +weeks in this manner.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be kept until Christmas if vines +with the green tomatoes hanging on them are pulled and hung in the +cellar. Pull the vines before they are frosted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All that you can put away.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Most of the tomatoes that are put +into storage will ripen and be most acceptable as soon as they +color up. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are found to be very +acid, the acidity may be overcome by using baking soda.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Parsley</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Transplant into flower pots late in +the fall.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Keep in windows where they will +receive plenty of sunshine.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Garlic</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Should be thoroughly cured as are +onions.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Or it may be braided by the tops +into strings which are hung up in dry places for curing and +storing.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Head Lettuce</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Rooted in earth in a cellar or +cave.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Water occasionally.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All you have in the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Dry beans and peas</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Stored where protected from +weevils.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Should be fully ripened before +shelling. Pick pods by hand as they ripen and spread pods to become +thoroughly dry. May be shelled by spreading pods on a sheet and +beating them with a stick. Can be cleaned by pouring them from a +height of 4 or 5 ft. upon a sheet and allowing the wind to blow the +particles of pod out of them as they fall.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>As many as you can gather.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept in a dry, cool place +and so stored as to be in no danger of absorbing odors from +vegetables stored nearby. Apples absorb odors from potatoes, +onions, turnips and other strong vegetables.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Sort apples carefully removing and +using at once all fruit that is bruised and shows signs of decay. +The best results are obtained by wrapping each apple in half a +sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates or bins. +The wrapping prevents apples from touching and thus prevents decay. +It also protects apples from odors of vegetables stored +nearby.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>As many barrels of apples as +possible. Remember that "An apple a day will keep the doctor +away."</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>The cellar or other storage place +must be kept cool. 32° F. is ideal. Never allow temperature to +go above 40° F. They can be stored unwrapped in barrels, boxes, +crates, bins, etc., if proper attention is paid to sorting, to +providing a cool place for storage, to occasional sorting during +the winter and for the immediate removal of all decayed fruit. Even +if you do not raise apples, but have a good storage place, meeting +the requirements as regards temperature, you will find it +advantageous to buy a winter's supply in the autumn, when prices +are low.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIX' id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XIX</h2> +<h3>HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE</h3> +<br> +<p>You have some delicious jellies, jams, canned fruits and +vegetables that you wish to sell and you do not know just how to go +about it. There are at your disposal several means of selling:</p> +<p>1. Through advertising.</p> +<p>2. Through personal letters to desirable shops, delicatessens, +boarding-houses, colleges, etc.</p> +<p>3. By direct salesmanship; that is, by making personal visits to +the buyers, either homes or stores.</p> +<p>4. Through jobbers to whom you pay a commission on all +sales.</p> +<p>5. Through coöperative selling.</p> +<p>Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way for you to handle your +problem is to employ the method so much used to-day and that is +wayside advertising. Wayside advertising costs practically nothing +and yet it pays.</p> +<p>Autos are everywhere these days. You cannot take a country ride +without seeing many signboards at the farm entrances advertising +chickens, fresh eggs, vegetables, honey, apples and canned goods. I +have a friend who drives 50 miles every fall for her honey. She +first found it by seeing the sign in front of the farm and now she +returns year after year because she thinks no other honey is just +like it. She would never have discovered it if that farm woman had +not been clever enough to think of advertising her goods in this +cheap way. My friend told all her other "auto" friends, so the +country woman has a splendid outlet for her product now. If you +live on a good road that is patronized at all by autoists you ought +to get your signboard up at once.</p> +<p>We often pass a farm where the sign "Fresh Home-Made Candy" +always tempts us to stop and buy. What autoist could resist that +sign? And here miles from town this clever woman is carrying on a +profitable side trade, which is netting her a nice little yearly +income. Her candy is good; we go often and so do many others. She +has turned her profession into a paying proposition. She could send +her candy away by parcel post or by some other means, but she would +not be so far ahead as she is now.</p> +<p>In addition to your wayside advertising you could advertise in +papers, magazines, etc. Many producers believe strongly in +advertising in daily and weekly papers. You can quickly find out +whether this kind of advertising pays. Give it a trial at least. +After you have spent ten or fifteen dollars in advertising you +ought to know whether it pays.</p> +<p>Use one or two of the city papers near you, taking the +publisher's advice as to the best day of the week on which to run +the advertisement, the size and the position of the "ad." The first +cost of getting your customers may seem high, but with good +products you could soon build up a list of people to whom sales can +be made year after year.</p> +<p>This form of advertising has many advantages. If your +advertising copy is clever and you have some novelty to offer, you +ought to receive many orders. If orders come, you get the full +retail price, the shipping charges are paid by the customer, and +cash comes with every order. And it means, if your customers are +pleased, that you have permanent customers. The initial cost is +great and there is a risk, but remember "it pays to advertise."</p> +<p>There are millions of city women who never can a jar of fruit or +put up a single glass of preserves or jelly who will be glad to +have you send your goods direct to them by parcel post. But you +must get in touch with these women either through wayside +advertising, magazine and paper advertising or by direct +salesmanship, although very few women have the time for personal +calls.</p> +<p>Considerable business can be done by letter writing to stores, +restaurants and boarding-houses in distant cities. It may be +impossible for you to go personally, in which case letters often +bring the desired results. Make your letters business-like and +typewrite them. Do not be discouraged if you do not get many +replies at first as there are at least fifty per cent who pay no +attention to such letters. But this form of advertising usually +pays.</p> +<p>Another method followed by many home canners is that of +marketing direct to the retail grocers, care being taken, of +course, to protect these grocers by not selling to more than one +member in a community. One of the great advantages, of this direct +salesmanship is that little selling effort is required on your part +after the first arrangements have been made. The nearby market plan +is greatly to be recommended because you can keep in touch with +your selling concern, build up a line of desirable goods and +promote its sale by advertising.</p> +<p>Of course you can get more money for your goods if you have time +and the opportunity to sell <i>direct to</i> the consumers. You +will of necessity have to sell cheaper to the grocers because they +too must make their profit. Marketing direct to the consumer has a +special appeal to many people. Where time is available and the +community accustomed to purchasing in this manner, this method +offers great possibilities. The profits are of course higher but +the results more uncertain, for it is somewhat difficult to gauge +the demands of the public, and the canner must assume the risk +ordinarily taken by the merchant.</p> +<p>It takes time and patience to develop a list of customers but if +you have time in the winter to do this you will find it will pay +you well. If you can get customers who are willing to pay good +prices for quality, scrupulous cleanliness and the homemade flavor, +you will get a larger gross return than if you sold through +merchants, but if your time is valuable it would scarcely pay you +to take individual orders and deliver goods.</p> +<p>There is still another way and that is to market your +home-canned products in large lots to jobbers, but if this plan is +to be pursued successfully there must be a reasonably large pack +and wholesale rates. This method produces more uniform profits year +by year, for after a reputation is established the home-canner +would not experience great difficulty in thus disposing of her +entire output by contract, providing the quality was high and the +price demands not excessive.</p> +<p>But the greatest and best way of all to find a profitable market +for your things is to coöperate with other canners in your own +neighborhood and find a market for quantity as well as quality. +Delicatessens, club houses, tea shops, college dormitories, +restaurants and hotels, all pay good prices for fine quality. No +big buyer will bother to purchase one or two dozen of this or that. +He wants dozens of things. One of the very best profitable ways to +sell with little trouble is through quantities. Get all the women +in your community to bring together cans of fruit and preserves, +etc., to some marketing place. Find out how many jars of currant +jelly you have, how many cans of peas and corn, how many of +cherries, etc., and then notify your buyer or prospective +buyer.</p> +<p>Coöperative selling has been undertaken and found +profitable. In some cases, especially in localities frequented by +the summer boarder or the automobile tourist, sales are made direct +to customers who come to the salesrooms of the organizations or to +their special sales; in other cases goods are sent by parcel post +and other means. The women in the community can hire or beg a room +where all the women of the community can sell their products for +individual profit. This room should be located on the direct +automobile road in order to attract tourists and automobile +parties. An annual membership fee of from 50 cents to $1 generally +is required for these organizations, and a charge of from 10 to 15 +per cent of the selling price usually is made to cover the cost of +selling. In a few instances the managing board has been able to +secure an efficient person to take charge of the enterprise for a +specified percentage on the sales.</p> +<p>Wholesale grocery concerns are interested in big +things—orders can be placed with them. Soda fountains in +towns and cities are excellent customers for the freshest eggs they +can get. They are encroaching more and more on the trade of the +restaurants and lunch rooms. Many serve light luncheons and would +be interested in good butter, preserves and jams. When you get a +list of names and addresses write to several dozen places, tell +what your organization has in the way of guaranteed eggs, homemade +products and what kind of service you could offer in the way of +regular shipments. When orders come it is an easy matter to look up +at your local bank the responsibility of any customer, so there is +little risk. Or cash can be insisted upon with every order, +although large concerns prefer to pay after receipt of goods and +bill.</p> +<p>Each woman in this coöperative organization must keep her +goods up to a certain standard, for an inferior lot of goods sent +to a large firm might ruin a reputation.</p> +<p>Three things govern the sale of canned +products—appearances, quality and price. So many things enter +into consideration of prices obtainable that it is difficult to set +a standard which will be applicable to different sections. The +quality of the pack, its neatness, the method of marketing and many +other matters must be considered in deciding this all-important +point. As a general proposition, however, if the products are +uniformly high grade, prices may be obtained which are somewhat in +excess of factory-made products marketed in the same manner.</p> +<p>Like any other new industry, the selling should be developed +slowly in order to minimize the possibility of loss and to assure +stable business. One should study the situation carefully both from +the manufacturing and marketing standpoints. Plan the season's +campaign before taking up the work, and do not let the enthusiasm +of the beginner interfere with good business judgment.</p> +<p>The selling when rightly managed can be made a successful +business or it can be turned into a liability through careless, +unbusinesslike methods and insufficient or unwise planning. +Properly handled it will pay well for the investment of time and +money, and offer opportunity for the disposal of surplus +home-canned, home-grown, homemade and home-prepared products of all +kinds.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIVING UP TO CONTRACTS</b></p> +<p>Care must be taken not to contract for more than can be +delivered. This would be bad business, and business principles must +govern in selling home products just as in other enterprises if one +is to be increasingly successful from year to year.</p> +<p>Occasionally a quantity of fruit which will not meet the rigid +requirements of the canning business can be turned into preserves, +jellies or fruit juices. Preserves and jellies should be marketed +in glass, and fruit juices in bottles, although some manufacturers +are now marketing some of these products in fiber cups. This line +of products will require some additional equipment, but there is a +steady demand for such homemade things and many women are deriving +profits through the sale of their tastily prepared jellies, just as +pickles and condiments have lined the pocketbooks of ambitious +housewives before now.</p> +<p>Home canning for the market is essentially a matter of +specializing and of giving the consumer a better product than he is +accustomed to purchase. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the +maintenance of a high standard for home-canned goods. Care should +be taken that every jar measures up to a rigid standard, for a +single one which falls below grade will neutralize the reputation +and standing obtained by the sale of a dozen jars of perfect +product. A quality is necessary which will warrant a money-back +guarantee on every jar.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE USE OF LABELS IN CANNING</b></p> +<p>Labels for both tin cans and glass jars should tell the truth as +to the quality, weight and kind of product within the pack. Before +adopting a trade-mark and label, consult the Bureau of Chemistry, +U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., as to label +requirements for canned goods prepared for the market.</p> +<p>It pays to show samples of all your canned goods at county and +state fairs. You may win many premiums. Goods which are canned with +preservatives should be debarred from all exhibits.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING GLASS FOR SHIPPING</b></p> +<p>Wrap each glass or jar separately in rumpled newspapers or +excelsior and pack in barrels or boxes. Line these containers with +papers or excelsior.</p> +<p>Strong corrugated parcel post boxes can be obtained for this +purpose. Wrap each jar with excelsior or paper before putting it in +its proper section. If sending large amounts send all boxes or all +barrels, do not mix them,—sending half barrels and half +boxes—as large concerns like uniform packages.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING TIN FOR SHIPPING</b></p> +<p>Two dozen cans is the regulation shipping case. Have the +shipping boxes of uniform size. Put the two dozen cans in the box +and nail on the top. Be exceedingly careful not to drive nails into +the cans. On both ends of the box paste labels such as are on the +cans, telling what the contents of the box are.</p> +<p>Address the box carefully using marking ink or a regulation tag. +If a tag, tack with small tacks on the top of the box. Write your +own name and address on the tag <i>distinctly</i> as the sender. Be +as careful of the tacks as you were of the nails. Always get a +receipt from your express agent if shipping by express as this will +be necessary in case of non-receipt of goods.</p> +<p>Send to the concern or individual to whom you are sending the +goods a list of the things you have sent. This is called an +invoice. Keep a copy of the invoice for yourself so if any question +arises you will know what you are talking about.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHIPPING TERMS</b></p> +<p>C.O.D. means collect on delivery. The purchaser pays the price +of the products to the transportation company before they are +delivered.</p> +<p>F.O.B. means free on board. For instance: if you send a shipment +of canned goods to Chicago at $6.00 per case f.o.b. Charles City it +means that you deliver the canned goods to the freight depot at +Charles City and the purchaser pays both the price per case and the +freight. If you deliver them f.o.b. Chicago it means you deliver +them to the freight depot at Charles City and also pay the freight +to Chicago.</p> +<p>Bill of Lading with Sight Draft Attached is a call for the money +before the purchaser can take the products from the freight +office.</p> +<p>Drop Shipment. If a wholesale firm requests that you ship direct +to another firm buying from him, thus avoiding two shipments, this +is called a drop shipment.</p> +<p>Lot Shipment. If you ship two or more barrels or cases as a "lot +shipment" to the same destination they may be sent at a cheaper +rate than if each were shipped separately.</p> +<h3>LIST OF FIRMS FURNISHING SUPPLIES FOR CANNING, DRYING, +PRESERVING, ETC</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HOME AND CLUB COÖPERATIVE +CANNING OUTFITS AND DEVICES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Butler Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Kansas City, Mo., and Minneapolis, Minn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water and steam<br> +and pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Carolina Metal Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wilmington, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Farm Canning Machine Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Meridian, Miss.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Favorite Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Tamps, Florida</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Florida Metal Products</td> +<td align='left'>Jacksonville, Fla.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Griffith & Turner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>205-207 N. Pace St., Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Halftime Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>7556 Oglesby Avenue, Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hall Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Grand Rapids, Mich.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water bath canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co</td> +<td align='left'>80-82 N. 5th Street, Portland, Ore.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Home Canner Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Hickory, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>E.F. Kirwan & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Modern Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Monarch Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Northwestern Steel & Iron Wks.</td> +<td align='left'>Eau Claire, Wis. canners.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pressure Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Denver, Colo.</td> +<td align='left'>Aluminum steam pressure<br> +cookers and canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>T.H. Raney</td> +<td align='left'>Chapel Hill, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>A.K. Robins & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Royal Supply Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio</td> +<td align='left'>Steam process canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Canner and Evaporator Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sprague Canning Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>222 No. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl</td> +<td align='left'>212 N. 4th Street, Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard Water-Seal Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 N. 2nd Street, Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Utility Company</td> +<td align='left'>Hickory, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Willson Canner Company</td> +<td align='left'>Louisville, Ky.,<br> +and No. 8 G St., N.W. Washington, D.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal and<br> +and pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HOME EVAPORATORS, DRYERS, AND +EQUIPMENT FOR DRYING</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Paring Machine Co</td> +<td align='left'>1231 Callowhill St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Peeler</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Harry Bentz Engineering Co.</td> +<td align='left'>90 West St., New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>G.S. Blakekslee & Company,</td> +<td align='left'>2806 Quinn St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Enterprise Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>3rd and Dauphin Sts., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Slicer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Edw. B. Fahrney,</td> +<td align='left'>Waynesboro, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gordon Engineering Corporaton</td> +<td align='left'>39 Cortlandt St., New York City</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Grange Sales Association,</td> +<td align='left'>Lafayette Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hunter Dry Kiln Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Machine Company,</td> +<td align='left'>108 West 34th St., N.Y. City</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lake Breeze Motor Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>564 W. Monroe St., Chicago</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia Drying Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Stekley St., above Westmoreland, Philadelphia, +Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia Textile Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sixth St. and Tabor Road, Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>John E. Smith's Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Buffalo, N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Evaporator Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl,</td> +<td align='left'>212 N. 4th St., Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>N.R. Streeter Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>N.R. Streeter & Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>B.F. Sturtevant Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Hyde Park Dist., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Peeler</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Stutzman Mfg. Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Ligonier, Ind.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.G.W. Young Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>61 Hanover St., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>MECHANICAL SEALS AND SEALERS FOR +TIN AND GLASS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Metal Cap Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Summit St. and Commercial Wharf, Brooklyn, +N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Metal bottle caps.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Pure Food Process Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Greenmount Avenue and Preston St., Baltimore, +Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Mechanical sealer for glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Bowers Can Seal Company,</td> +<td align='left'>146 Summer St., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Automatic can sealers for tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Burpe Can Sealer Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>215 W. Huron St., Chicago.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin can sealer and opener.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Columbia Specialty Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Metal bottle caps.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Crown Cork and Seal Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Chicago, San Francisco, and other +cities</td> +<td align='left'>Sanitary metal bottle caps and sealers.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Enterprise Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Bottle cappers from 3 in. to 14 in.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Frazer & Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>50 Church Street, New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Mechanical hand sealer for sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>47 1st Street, Portland, Ore.</td> +<td align='left'>Automatic can sealers for tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>States Metals Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>30 Church Street, New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Hand sealers for sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>STEAMERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Aluminum Cooking Utensil Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New Kensington, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Toledo Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Toledo, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wilmot, Castle & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HEATING DEVICES, LIFTING CRATES, +AND OTHER LABOR-SAVING DEVICES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>L.B. Allen Co. Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>4517 No. Lincoln St.,</td> +<td align='left'>Commercial flux.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Biddle-Gaumer Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Patent canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Fagley & Halpen</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Handy Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Maritime Bldg., Seattle Wash., and<br> +No. 208 Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Individual jar holders.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kerr Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sand Springs, Okla.</td> +<td align='left'>Duplex fork.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Manning, Bowman & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Meriden, Conn.</td> +<td align='left'>Alcholite stoves.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Parker Wire Goods Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Worcester, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Lifting tray for jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pearce Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Albion, Mich.</td> +<td align='left'>Racks and lifters.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.H. Schaefer Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Toledo, Ohio.</td> +<td align='left'>Fruit jar wrench.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>LABELS, STICKERS, SHIELDS AND +BADGES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Camden Curtain and Embroidery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Camden, New Jersey.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>R.P. Clarke & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Dennison Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Printing and Lithograph Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>TIN CANS AND GLASS JARS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New York City.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ball Bros. Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Muncie, Ind.</td> +<td align='left'>Screw top and glass-top jars</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ben Schloss</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buck Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Chesapeake Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Frazer & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>50 Church St., N.Y.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hazel-Atlas Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W. Va.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass-top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Johnson-Morse Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W. Va.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kerr Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sand Springs, Okla.</td> +<td align='left'>Suction seal and Mason jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>E.F. Kirwan Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>A.K. Robins & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans and general equipment.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Schramm Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>St. Louis, Mo.</td> +<td align='left'>Suction seal and screw top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Smalley Fruit Jar Co.</td> +<td align='left'>26 Dock Sq., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass-top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl</td> +<td align='left'>Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Staunton Jar Corporation<i>N.Y.</i></td> +<td align='left'>Ellicott Sq, Buffalo,</td> +<td align='left'>Vacuum seal jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Virginia Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Buchanan, Va.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wheeling Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>RUBBER RINGS FOR COLD-PACK +CANNING</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Acme Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Trenton, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Boston Woven Hose & Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cleveland, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>GLASS BOTTLES AND OTHER +CONTAINERS FOR FRUIT JUICES, CATSUP, ETC.</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Adams Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Atlantic Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>90 West Broadway, N.Y. City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berney-Bond Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bradford, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cape May Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cape May Court House, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cumberland Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bridgeton, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Federal Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Columbus, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.L. Flaccus Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Pittsburgh, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Glenshaw Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Glenshaw, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.C. Goss Glass Co., Mfg. Agts.</td> +<td align='left'>172 Fulton St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hocking Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Lancaster, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Charleroi, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Indiana Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Dunkirk, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>D.C. Jenkins Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Kokomo, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>North Wheeling Glass Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ripley & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Connellsville, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Schramm Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sheffield Glass Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sheffield, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Sterling Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Lapel, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Turner Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Salem, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Upland Flint Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Upland, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Western Bottle Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>West end Randolph St. Bridge, Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Whitall-Tatum Co.</td> +<td align='left'>410-416 Race St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wightman Bottle & Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Parkers Landing, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Williamstown Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Williamstown, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Woodbury Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Winchester, Ind.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>GLASS BOTTLES SEALED WITH CORKS +AND METAL CAPS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Acme Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Olean, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Binghamton Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Binghamton, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.L. Flaccus Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Pittsburgh, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hazel-Atlas Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Charleroi, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Jeanette Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Jeanette, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>North Baltimore Bottle Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Turner Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Whitney Glass Works</td> +<td align='left'>Glassboro, N.J.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>EARTHENWARE AND STONEWARE +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buckel Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Hall, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buckeye Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Macomb, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Burley and Winter Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Crooksville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hawthorn Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Hawthorn, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Logan Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Logan, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Louisville Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Louisville, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Muskingum Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Cottage, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Nashville Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Nelson McCly Sanitary Hardware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roseville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Paducah Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Paducah, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pfaltzaraff Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>York, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ransbottom Bros., Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roseville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Red Wing Union Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Red Wing, Minn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Star Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Crooksville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Uhl Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Evansville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Western Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Monmouth, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>White Hall Sewer Pipe & Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Hall, Ill.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>FIBRE AND PAPER CANS AND +BOTTLES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>447 W. 14th, New York City, and Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The American Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Canister Company of New Jersey</td> +<td align='left'>Phillipsburg, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Paper Bag Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 Battery Place, New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cordley & Hayes</td> +<td align='left'>7-9 Leonard St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Empire Paper Tube and Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>155 Bank St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Hygeia Paper Container Co.</td> +<td align='left'>2106 Auburn Ave., Toledo, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Moisture Proof Fibre Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Detroit, Mich.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Mono-Service Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Samuel W. Moore & Sons</td> +<td align='left'>95 Liberty St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>576 Clinton St., Milwaukee, Wis.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pure Food Package Co.</td> +<td align='left'>200 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Purity Paper Bottle Co., Inc.</td> +<td align='left'>1341 S. Capitol St., Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.C. Ritchie & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>400 S. Green St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sanitary Paper Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Single Service Package Corp. of America</td> +<td align='left'>326 Hudson St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>St. Louis Paper Can & Tube Co.</td> +<td align='left'>4400 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Standard Package Co.</td> +<td align='left'>50 State St., Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Washington Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>425 12th St., N.W., Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Weis Fibre Container Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>Monroe, Mich.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>FOIL-LINED PAPER BAGS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thomas M. Royal & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bryn Mawr, Pa.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>DELIVERY CONTAINERS FOR EGGS, +VEGETABLES, DRIED FOOD PRODUCTS, ETC.</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Bloomer Bros. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Doane Carton Co.</td> +<td align='left'>920 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Mono-Service Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thomas M. Royal & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bryn Mawr, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.A. Schurmann & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>365 E. Ill. St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Corrugated Fibre Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roosevelt Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Weis Fibre Container Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>Monroe, Mich.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>PARCEL POST EGG +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>O.B. Andrews Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.K. Brunner</td> +<td align='left'>45 Harrison St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1122-28 S. 12th St., St Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Paper Bag Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 Battery Place, New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cummer Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cadillac, Mich.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Day Collapsible Box Co., Inc.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington Grove, Md.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Empire Printing & Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Atlanta, Ga.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.B. Foster & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>2447 Locust St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Robert Gair Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ohio No-Break Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>702 Mercantile Library Bldg., Cincinnati, +Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Self-Locking Carton Co.</td> +<td align='left'>437 E. Illinois St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Concord & Prince Sts., Brooklyn,N.Y.<br> +Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Safety Egg Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wallace Egg Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>451 3rd St., San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>MISCELLANEOUS CORRUGATED BOARD +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New York City and Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1122-28 S. 12th St., St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Empire Printing & Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Atlanta, Ga.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Federal Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Columbus, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Robert Gair Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Concord and Prince Sts., Brooklyn,N.Y.<br> +Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Corrugated Fibre Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1315 Martindale Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>THERMOMETERS FOR OVEN, CANDY AND +SUGAR</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Taylor Instrument Companies</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br /> +<br /> +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |