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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:42:54 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:42:54 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/13775-0.txt b/13775-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d63ffa3 --- /dev/null +++ b/13775-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8713 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 *** + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + +The Cold-Pack Method + +by + +GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B + +Formerly Associate Professor of Home Economics, +Iowa State College + +1920 + + + + + + + +PREFACE + + +It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, Cold-Pack +Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand one day at a +federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a few weeks there +would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty miles away. Immediately +I announced that I was going to the demonstrations. So leaving my +small daughter with my mother, I went to the Normal School at DeKalb, +Illinois, and heard and saw for the first time cold-pack canning. + +It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded full of +interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I felt amply +repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, the first +story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in _The Country +Gentleman_ and I had the pleasure of writing it. So enthused was I +over this new, efficient and easy way to can not only fruits but hard +vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that I wanted to carry the +good news into the kitchen of other busy housewives and mothers. + +My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, just +from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, much +against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement work, my +sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that for the first +time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over one phase of +cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that when she received +my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, "Mother, I am +enthused about this canning and want to can everything in sight this +summer," she hastily washed all available glass jars and tops and had +everything in readiness for young daughter's return. And we canned. We +were not content to can alone but invited all the neighbors in and +taught them how to can. Our community canned more things and more +unusual things, including the hard vegetables, that year than they had +ever attempted before. + +Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there were +doubting Thomases, but it only took time and _results_ to convert even +the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a confession. It was +much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase of canning, to master +this new method than it was for me with my four years' training course +and my five years of teaching canning behind me. And this is the +reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," she knew no other method whereas +I had to "unlearn" all my previous methods. + +The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from the old +hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you must forget +all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And right here is +where many women "fall down"--they are not willing to admit that they +know nothing about it and so do not get accurate information about it. +They are so afraid of appearing ignorant. This false feeling is the +greatest obstacle in woman's way. + +I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will say, +"Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it for thirty +years." And when I show my surprise, they further enlighten me with, +"and my mother used it before me, too." With a little tactful +questioning I usually get these answers: "Of course, I do not hot dip +and cold dip. I never heard of that before. I pack the products into +the cold jars and for all vegetables I use a preserving powder because +there is no way on earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless +you put something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right. +Then I cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I +ask, "How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the +answer, "Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems +like such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned, +out-of-date methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and +much actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for +there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old rather +than try the new. + +The present book is therefore designed for all interested in greater +efficiency in the home, including not only students of home economics +but all persons who have charge of homes and are interested in +learning new, efficient, time and labor saving methods. + +In the preparation of this book I have received much help from Mr. +O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' and +Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. I also +wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped to make +this book possible by contributing information, advice and +encouragement. + +GRACE VIALL GRAY. + +October, 1919. + + + + + CONTENTS + + I. GETTING READY TO CAN + + II. SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + III. HARD FRUITS + + IV. VEGETABLES + + V. SOUPS + + VI. JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + VII. MEAT + + VIII. FISH + + IX. EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + X. INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + XI. WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + XI. I GETTING READY TO DRY + + XIII. HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + XIV. HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + XV. EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + XVI. CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + XVII. PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + XVIII. HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + XIX. HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + + + + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +GETTING READY TO CAN + + +Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of canning, +preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California fruits by the +case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen cans, according +to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was cheaper and +decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, greens, soups +and meats than to take time and strength in the very hottest season of +the year to do our own canning. + +But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us thrift. The +crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has sunk into our +minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods have been adopted by +the modern woman. Women who had never canned in days before the war +had to can during war days. Food was so scarce and so high in price +that to buy fancy or even plain canned products was a severe strain on +the average housewife's purse. The American woman, as was to be +expected, came quickly and eagerly to the front with the solution and +the slogan: "More gardens and more canning and preserving at home." + +A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As I have +just said, women who had never canned before became vitally interested +in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, but jars upon +jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so great was their +delight in the finished products that again and again I heard them +say: "Never again shall we depend upon the grocery to supply us with +canned goods." + +If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that their +grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just the same, +because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they would have +canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so apparent during the +summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a result of new canning +methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. The women of to-day were +forced into a new field and learned how satisfying and well worth +while the results were. It is safe to guarantee that every +home-canning recruit will become a home-canning veteran. + +The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned how +simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear that +home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the immediate +necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own because of the +war, and it has come to stay because of its many merits. + +There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all over +the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the "intermittent," the +"cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods. + + +DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS + +The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was largely +used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in the +preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized jars, after +which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar is done after +the sterilization has been completed, there is always a possibility of +bacteria and spores entering the jar with the cooked food and the air. +Fruits can be handled successfully in this way, but this method cannot +be used for vegetables, greens and meats. It is a very laborious, hot +and hard way to can. Modern housewives are discarding it more and more +every year and are beginning to place their trust in the newer and far +more scientific methods of canning. + +The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still +beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture into +the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all fruits +and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where they say +the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great objection to this +method of canning is that it requires three periods of sterilization +on three different days and three liftings of jars in and out of the +sterilizer. + +What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning should not +be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The "cold-water" is often +used in connection with the canning of rhubarb, green gooseberries and +a comparatively few other sour berry fruits. If the "cold-water" +method is used we would suggest that the product be thoroughly washed, +placed in a strainer, scalding water poured over it, and the product +then packed at once, in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and +clean, cold water applied until the jars are filled. If these steps +are taken carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be +successful with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products +will have to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not +consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method. + + +THE COLD-PACK METHOD + +The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is known as +the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight to prove +that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory process for +busy housewives to can everything that grows. + +This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, and if I +should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am referring +to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are packed cold in +their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or containers. To the +fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables hot water and a little +salt are added. The sterilization is done in the glass jars or tin +containers after they are partly or entirely sealed, making it +practically impossible for bacteria or spores to enter after the +product has once been carefully sterilized or cooked. In following +this method vegetables should first be blanched in boiling water or +live steam, then quickly plunged into cold water and the skins +removed. The products are then packed in containers and sterilized +according to the instructions and recipes given later. + +When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the product +for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled with food. +It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, processing, boiling +and cooking are all interchangeable terms and mean one and the same +thing. + +By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food +products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be successfully +sterilized in a single period with but one handling of the product in +and out of the canner. + +All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy pulp, +and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than in any +other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is eliminated and +all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause vegetables and meat to +spoil are destroyed. + + +EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL + +For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you have in +the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many of us have +purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn out more at the +end of a day and have found it well worth while to invest a few +dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more efficient. But if you +are a beginner and do not care to put any money in an unknown venture +use the available things at hand, just to prove to yourself and others +that it can be done. + +Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those which +are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and basements +and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good condition and +will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good rubber you can use +that jar. + +If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor economy to +use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably responsible for more +spoiled canned goods than any other cause. Good tops and good rubbers +are requisites for good canning. + +For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a +galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail--a new one, of +course. Either is excellent where the family is small and the canning +is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the cookstove while +others employ a large vat. If you should have to buy the wash boiler +or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover and be sure the pail +does not leak. Then all you have to do is to secure what we call a +false bottom, something that will keep the jars of fruit from touching +the direct bottom of the boiler or pail. This false bottom, remember, +is absolutely necessary, for without it the jars will break during the +boiling. + +For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and cut it +to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or bucket. +If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a wooden +bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not available +put thin pieces of wood in the bottom--anything to keep the jars from +coming in direct contact with the bottom of the sterilizer. + +If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use a +deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. This +rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars from +becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a tendency +for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be lost. Do not +use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a false bottom; they +are unsatisfactory because they do not allow proper circulation of +water. + +Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by many +women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the market +and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned fingers. +Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies with you, +individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will hold all +your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them separately. + +To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no matter what +kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper than the tallest +jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra inch or two so that +the water will not boil over. + +Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you will +need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may be put +for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water--if you haven't +running water--for the "cold dip." + +If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar +lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the canner. +If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as they contain +an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher for lifting the +jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, such as scales, +knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth or muslin for +blanching or scalding the product, and the kitchen clock play their +part in canning. + +No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product is +cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food will +be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is desired to +add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may be done when +the product is packed in the jar. + +A great many people have been led to believe through advertising +matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds for +the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep under the +commonly known methods of canning. The first argument against the use +of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It is possible to +sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on tree, vine, shrub or +in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period method of canning, +without the use of a compound. The second argument against it is that +many of the canning compounds are positively harmful to health. Some +of them contain as high as ninety-five per cent of boric acid. +Directors of county and state fairs should exclude from entry all +fruits and vegetables that have been preserved in any canning +compound. Perfect fruit can be produced without any chemical +preservative. The third argument is that they are expensive. + +There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and garbage +pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath outfits. In +these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling water. + +There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the +product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally +used for everyday cookery. + +The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the aluminum +pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards the time +required to sterilize food. + +Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and +manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the +hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or +hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing. + +The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated but +more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker because it +can be used for everyday cooking in the home. + +Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, as +they are used daily and not just during the canning season. + +Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a +hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen minutes; +in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, twelve minutes; +in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; in +an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten pounds of steam, five +minutes. + +It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath outfit; the +shortest and quickest method is with the pressure cooker that has a +pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife has different financial +problems, different hours of working and different ways of working. +Where quick work is desired and expense is no item the pressure cooker +is advisable; where money is scarce and time is no object the homemade +outfit answers. Each one must decide which outfit is best for her own +particular case. It matters not which outfit you have--they have all +been thoroughly tested and approved by experts. Each one does the +work. + +This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart +kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart +measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar opener; +wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for blanching; +pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one tablespoon; one +teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring cup; jar lifter; +either a rack for several jars or individual jar holders; and a clock. + +The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept busy +during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices for +outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the young +people of your family and give them something definite and worth while +to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must be kept +busy--if not usefully employed they are often inclined to mischief. +This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can be used in the +back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the front yard. + +Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of heat +required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for canning +are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of 500 feet +above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot increase in +altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the time required +as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning of all kinds of +fruits, vegetables, greens and meats. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + +Having decided on your canning outfit, whether you are going to can in +boiling water, in a condensed steam cooker, or in steam under +pressure; having gathered together the necessary tools, such as +spoons, knives and a funnel; having raided the storeroom and collected +some jars, you are now ready for the actual work of canning. + +It is rather unfortunate that strawberries should be one of the very +hardest products to can with good results. The canning itself is +simple--all berries are quickly and easily canned--but strawberries +always shrink, are apt to turn a little brown, and, what distresses us +most of all, they float to the top of the jar. + +The berry's tendency to shrink is responsible for loss of color as +well as its floating qualities. However, if you will be exceedingly +careful to remove the berries from the canner the minute the clock +says the sterilizing period is over, you will have a fairly good +product. Two minutes too long will produce a very dark, shrunken +berry. So be careful of the cooking time. Another thing that makes a +good-looking jar is to pack a quart of berries--all kinds of berries, +not merely strawberries--into a pint jar. If you will get that many in +you will have a much better-looking jar, with very little liquid at +the bottom. It does not hurt the berries at all to gently press down +on them with a silver spoon while you are packing them into the jar. + +We know we are going to get a quart of berries into every pint jar, +so we know just how many quarts of berries we will need to fill the +necessary jars for the next winter's use. + +The first thing to do is to test each jar to see that there are no +cracks, no rough edges to cut the rubber, and to see whether the cover +and clamp fit tightly, if a clamp type of jar is used. The bail that +clamps down the glass tops should go down with a good spring. If it +does not, remove the bail and bend it into shape by taking it in both +hands and pressing down in the middle with both thumbs. Do not bend it +too hard, for if it goes down with too much of a snap it will break +the jar. This testing of the bails should be done every year. The +bails on new jars are sometimes too tight, in which case remove the +bail and spread it out. After the bail has been readjusted, test it +again. The chances are it will be just right. Of course all this +testing takes time, but it pays. + +If you are using some old Mason jars put a rubber on each jar, fill +the jar with hot water, and then put the cover on tight and invert. +This is a sure test for leakage. Never use a Mason cap twice unless +the cover and collar are separate so that both can be completely +sterilized. Fortunately the old-fashioned Mason jar metal cover to +which a porcelain cap is fastened is going out of style. + +If you still have some of these old covers it will be economy to throw +them away. You will be money ahead in the end. After these tops have +been used once it is impossible to make a fastening between the +porcelain and the metal so tight that it is not possible for the +liquid to seep through and cause the contents to spoil. This accounts +for many failures when old tops are used. For this reason never use +the old-fashioned, zinc-topped covers. + +The new and safe Mason jar covers consist of two parts, the metal +collar and the porcelain cap. They are for sale at all grocery or +hardware stores. + +If you are using the vacuum-seal jars which have a composition +attached to the lacquered tops, carefully examine this rubber +composition to see that it is perfect. This composition should go +entirely round the top and should not be cut or broken in any place. +If it is the top must be discarded for a perfect one. + +Of course with this type of jar no rubber rings are necessary, as the +rubber composition on the lacquered top does the sealing. + +It is a wise plan to go round the tops and over the inside of all new +glass jars with a heavy and dull knife to scrape off any slivers of +glass or bursted blisters that may be still clinging to the jars. +Those on the tops cut through the rubber and cause leakage. Those in +the jars may get into the product. I often find these splinters, +particularly on new straight-sided jars. + +It matters not what type of jar you use. Use what you have at hand, +but if you are buying new jars consider the following things before +making your selections: No metal, unless it is enameled or lacquered, +should come in contact with the food. The jars should be of smooth, +well-finished glass. The color of the jar does not affect the keeping +qualities of the food. The top or part of the top that comes in +contact with the contents should be all in one piece, so as not to +offer a place for the accumulation of organisms and dirt. The jars +which have nearly straight sides and a wide mouth or opening are +easier to wash and facilitate better, quicker and easier packing of +the product. + +Wash the jars in soap and water. Rinse in boiling water. Some people +temper new jars so they will stand the shock of hot water or hot sirup +without breaking. If you wish to take this extra precaution put the +jars in a dishpan or kettle of cold water after they have been washed +in soapy water; bring the water slowly to a boil and let it boil +fifteen minutes. After the jars are ready test the rubber rings. This +may seem a useless precaution, but it is a necessary one, for there is +no one detail in the business of canning that is more important. Even +in the best boxes of rubbers there is occasionally a black sheep, and +one black sheep may cause the loss of a jar. + +Test each rubber before you use it by pressing it firmly between the +thumbs and forefingers, stretching it very slightly. If it seems soft +and spongy discard it. All rubbers fit for canning should be firm, +elastic, and should endure a stretching pull without breaking. A good +rubber ring will return promptly to place without changing the inside +diameter. + +A great many women are laboring under the wrong impression that color +affects the quality of a ring. Some women insist on red, and others on +white. Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter during the +manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index to its +usefulness in home canning. + +Use only fresh, sound strawberries or other berries. There is a little +knack about preparing the strawberries that few housewives know. Hull +the berries by _twisting the berries off the hull_, instead of pulling +the hull from the berry as most women do. You will have a +better-looking berry if you will be careful about this. Place the +berries in a strainer and pour cold water over them to cleanse them. + + +HOW TO ADJUST THE COVERS + +Never allow the berries or any fruit to stand in water, as the flavor +and color are destroyed by water-soaking. Pack in glass jars, pressing +the berries down tightly, but without crushing them. Put the rubber on +the jar if you are using a jar requiring a rubber. Pour hot sirup over +the berries. Put the top of the jar in place, but only partially +tighten it. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, screw down with the +thumb and little finger, not using force but stopping when the cover +catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +In using glass-top jars with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and leave the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while the product is +cooking, because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is +not loose enough to allow the steam to escape the pressure may blow +the rubber out or break the jar. + +The product is now ready for the canner. + + +STERILIZING + +If you are using the homemade outfit, such as wash-boiler or garbage +pail, all berries and soft fruits are sterilized sixteen minutes; in +all commercial hot-water-bath outfits and in condensed steam, sixteen +minutes; in the water-seal, twelve minutes; in the steam pressure +under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; and in the pressure cooker +under ten pounds of steam, five minutes. Do not allow the pressure to +run above ten pounds for soft fruits; fifteen pounds makes them mushy. + +If you use any type of hot-water-bath outfit be sure the water is +boiling when the fruit is lowered into the canner, and _keep it +boiling_ vigorously for the entire sixteen minutes. At the end of the +sterilizing time, _immediately_ remove the jars from the canner. + +In taking canned goods from boiling water care is needed to see that +they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows and +doors while lifting the jars out, as a sudden draft might break them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes if a cover is +screwed down too tight the pressure of the steam from the inside +causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a thread or +two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. + +In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber it should be replaced by a new one, and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert the jar to test the joint, then let it cool. If the seal is not +perfect correct the fault and return the jar to the cooker for five +minutes if hot, ten minutes if the jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool, and +then be tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only half an inch, holding it over the +table, so that in case the lid does not hold the jar and contents will +not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the cover with +a rule. An imperfect seal will give a hollow sound. + +As light injures delicately colored fruits and vegetables, it is wise +to store them in dark places, such as cupboards, or basement or attic +shelves protected from the light. Black cambric tacked to the top +shelf and suspended over the other shelves is a sufficient protection +from light. A discarded window shade can be rolled down over the +shelves and easily pulled up when you desire to take a jar from the +shelves. + +Canned goods are best kept at a temperature below seventy degrees +Fahrenheit, where that is at all possible. + + +STEPS IN CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +It might be well to enumerate the steps in berry and soft-fruit +canning, or do what we called in our schooldays "review it": + +1. Get the canner and all its accessories ready. + +2. Test and wash jars and tops and put in water to sterilize. + +3. Test rubber rings. + +4. Make sirup and put in double boiler to keep hot + +5. Prepare the product--hull, seed, stem. + +6. Place berries or fruit in strainer or colander. + +7. Rinse by pouring cold water over product. + +8. Pack from strainer into hot jar. + +9. Use big spoon to get a firm pack. + +10. Dip rubber in hot water to cleanse it and put it in place on the +jar. + +11. Pour the hot sirup over the fruit at once. + +12. Put top of jar on, but not tight. + +13. Ready for canner. + +14. Sterilize for the necessary length of time, according to the +outfit you are using: + + MINUTES + + Hot-water-bath outfit 16 + Condensed-steam outfit 16 + Water-seal outfit 12 + Steam pressure, 5 pounds, outfit 10 + Pressure cooker, 10 pounds, outfit 5 + +15. Remove from canner. + +16. Tighten cover, except vacuum-seal jar, which seals automatically. + +17. Test joint. + +18. Three or four days later, if perfectly air-tight, label and store +in a dark place. + +These steps are followed for strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, +dewberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, raspberries, and for all soft +fruits, such as cherries, currants, grapes and figs. + +The other soft fruits, such as peaches and apricots, which have a +skin, are scalded or "hot dipped" for one to two minutes in boiling +water or steam and are then plunged into cold water. These two steps +of hot-dipping and cold dipping make the removal of skins a very +simple operation. After the skins are removed the fruit is put into +the hot jars and the process continued from Step 8, as with +strawberries. + + +SIRUPS + +Of course you are wondering about the sirups for the different fruits. +There is no set rule for making sirup. It is not necessary to use +sirup in canning fruits. The amount of sugar used in the sirup will +depend upon the individual taste. In a first-class product there +should be enough sirup to improve its flavor, but not enough to make +it take the place in the diet of a sweet preserve rather than a fresh +fruit. + +The sirups are made either with varying proportions of sugar and water +or with the same proportions boiled different lengths of time. What is +known as the California sirup is made with three parts of sugar to two +parts of water, boiled gently to different concentrations. + +Thin Sirup. For a thin sirup take three cups of sugar and two cups +of water. Mix sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. This is +used for all sweet fruits not too delicate in texture and color, as +apples, cherries, pears, or for fruits in which more sugar will be +added in preparation for the table. + +Medium Thin Sirup. The sugar and water should be boiled about four +minutes, or until it begins to be sirupy. This is used for +raspberries, peaches, blackberries, currants, etc. + +Medium Thick Sirup. Boil the sugar and water until it will pile up +over the edge of the spoon when it is tipped. This is used for sour or +acid fruits, as plums, gooseberries, apricots, sour apples, and some +of the delicately colored fruits, as strawberries. + +Thick Sirup. The sugar and water are boiled until it will form a +ball in the spoon and cannot be poured from the spoon. This is used +for preserves. + +It is possible to get more, sometimes almost twice as much, sirup +into a quart jar containing large fruits, as apples and pears, than +into a quart jar containing small fruits, as currants or blackberries. + +There is a little knack worth knowing about combining the sugar and +water for the sirup. If the sugar is sifted into the boiling water +just as fine-grained cereals are sifted into water, there will be no +scum formed. This is a saving of sugar. + +If you wish to can strawberries for the market or to win a prize at +the county or state fairs, can them as follows: + +Canned by this recipe, strawberries will not rise to the top of the +sirup. Use only fresh, ripe, firm and sound berries. Prepare them, and +add eight ounces of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water to each +quart of berries. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes in an enameled or +acid-proof kettle. Allow the berries to cool and remain several hours +or over-night in the covered kettle. Pack the cold berries in hot +glass jars. Put rubbers and caps of jars in position, not tight. +Sterilize for the length of time given below for the type of outfit +used: + + MINUTES + Water bath, homemade or commercial 8 + Water seal, 214 degrees 6 + 5 pounds steam pressure 5 + 10 pounds steam pressure. Do not use. + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool and test +the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +HARD FRUITS + + +PINEAPPLES + +The object of canning citrus fruits is, first, to save the surplus and +by-products; second, to furnish wholesome fruits at reasonable cost to +more of our people; third, to help the producer to transform +by-products into net profits. + +Almost every one likes canned pineapple, but some housewives stopped +canning this fruit because they found that when cooked in sirup it +seemed to get tough and less palatable. Vegetable and fruit fibers are +toughened when cooked with sugar for any length of time, so in all +cases where you desire to keep the product as Nature grew it avoid +this form of cooking. + +When the product is put into the jars with a sirup and cooked in the +jar you will have a product superior to the one that is cooked over +the direct fire in the kettle with the sirup. + +But pineapple slices or pieces are so hard they cannot be put directly +into the jars as berries are. Pineapples must undergo a preliminary +process to make them palatable and soft. This preliminary process is +known in canning as "blanching." + +After the pineapple has been prepared by paring and removing the eyes, +it can be left in slices or cut into cubes. In cutting hold the +pineapple at the top and use a sharp knife. It is then placed in a +wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth for the blanching. Blanching +means to immerse the product in boiling water for a certain length of +time to reduce its bulk and soften it. + +Pineapples are blanched for five minutes. We scald peaches and +apricots, which are soft fruits; but we blanch pineapples, apples and +quinces, the hard fruits. + +Scalding means to immerse the product in boiling water for a very +short time--just long enough to loosen the skins. Blanching is just a +longer period of scalding. + +When you blanch pineapples use only enough water to cover them. This +same blanching water can be used for making the sirup. It contains +much of the pineapple flavor and there is no reason for discarding it. +But this is absolutely the only blanching water that is ever used. All +other blanching water, particularly that in which vegetables are +blanched, is full of objectionable acids that we want to get rid of, +so under no circumstances must it be used. But with pineapples the +object of blanching is primarily to soften the hard fiber, so there is +no objection to using the blanching water. + +After the pineapple has been in the covered kettle of boiling water +for five minutes, it is held under cold water until cool enough to +handle. Never let it soak in cold water, as that will impair its +delicate flavor. After this it is packed into hot sterilized jars. +Rubber rings are put on the jars, the covers are put in place--not +tight--and the jars are put in the canner. + +Pineapple is sterilized for thirty minutes in a hot-water-bath outfit; +thirty minutes in a condensed steam outfit; twenty-five minutes in the +water-seal; twenty-five minutes in the steam pressure under five +pounds of steam, and eighteen minutes in the pressure cooker under ten +pounds of pressure. At the end of the sterilizing period the jars are +removed, the covers completely tightened and the joints carefully +tested for leakage. + +A thin or medium-thin sirup is best for pineapples. Measure the +blanching water and to every two cups of it add three cups of sugar. +If you wish the sirup thin heat until the sugar is dissolved. If +medium-thin sirup is desired, boil it about four minutes or until it +begins to be sirupy. + + +STEPS IN CANNING PINEAPPLE + +1. Cut the pineapple into slices of desired thickness. + +2. Pare the slices. It is easier to pare the slices than to pare the +whole pineapple. + +3. Remove the eyes, using pineapple scissors to facilitate the work. + +4. Blanch pineapple for five minutes in a small amount of boiling +water, using a wire basket or cheesecloth. + +5. Cold-dip the pineapple. + +6. Make a sirup, using the blanching water. Make a thin or medium-thin +sirup. + +7. Pack the pineapple into hot sterilized jars, with good rubbers on +them. + +8. Pour the sirup over the pineapple. + +9. Put the tops of the jars on--not tight. + +10. Sterilize for 30 minutes in hot-water-bath outfit, 30 minutes in +condensed-steam outfit, 25 minutes in water-seal outfit, 25 minutes in +steam pressure (5 pounds), 18 minutes in pressure cooker (10 pounds). + +11. Remove from canner, tighten covers and inspect rubber and joints. + + +APPLES + +Here are six ways in which canned apples may be used: as a breakfast +dish, with cream and sugar; baked like fresh apples; in apple salad, +often served for lunch or supper; as a relish with roast pork--the +apples may be fried in the pork fat or the cores may be cooked with +roast pork for flavoring; and for apple dumplings, deep apple pie and +other desserts in which whole apples are desirable. The sirup of +canned whole apples can be used for pudding sauces or fruit drinks. + +Apples are another hard fruit which require blanching, as it greatly +improves their texture and appearance. + +Apples and some other fruits, such as pears and quinces, have a +tendency to turn brown when allowed to stand after they are cut. To +prevent their discoloring the pieces may be dropped into mild salt +water as they are pared and sliced. Let them stand for five minutes, +then wash them in clear water and pack. Use a thin sirup for canning +apples. + +Summer apples are not firm enough to keep well when canned. They cook +up and lose flavor. They may, however, be canned to be used in a short +time. Windfall apples may be pared, cored and sliced, using water, and +only a small quantity of that, instead of sirup, and canned for pies. + +To be able to can windfall and cull apples and thus have them for home +use through the entire year is a great advantage to all farmers who +grow them. They can be sold on the market canned when they would not +bring a cent in the fresh state. + +The windfall and cull apples may be divided into two grades. The +first grade would include the whole reasonably sound fruit; the second +grade the worm-eaten, partially decayed and injured fruit. Do not can +any injured or decayed part nor allow apples to become overripe before +canning. + +Canning Whole Reasonably Firm Apples. Wash the apples. Remove cores +and blemishes. Place whole apples in blanching tray or blanching cloth +and blanch in boiling hot water for one or two minutes. Remove and +plunge quickly into cold water. Pack in large glass jars. Pour over +the product a hot thin sirup. Place rubber and top in position. Seal +partially--not tight. + +Sterilize jars twenty minutes in hot-water-bath outfit and in +condensed steam, fifteen minutes in water-seal, ten minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam pressure, five minutes +in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit, under ten pounds of steam +pressure. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. + +Firm and tart apples may be cored and peeled first, then canned by the +above recipe. + +Canning Apples for Pie Filling. Use second grade of windfalls or +culls. Wash, core, pare and remove all decayed spots. Slice apple +quickly into a basin containing slightly salted cold water--about one +tablespoon of salt per gallon--to prevent discoloring. Pack fresh cold +product in glass jars. Add one cupful of hot thin sirup to each quart +of fruit. Put on the rubbers and screw on tops, but do not seal +completely. Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ten minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes +under five pounds of steam pressure; four minutes in aluminum +pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +joint. Store. + +This filling can be used for making apple pies in the same way that +fresh apples would be used, with the exception that the sirup must be +poured off and less sugar should be used. Since the apples have +already been cooked, only enough heat is needed to cook the crust and +to warm the apples through. Pies may be baked in seven minutes. The +apple pies made with these apples are, in the opinion of many +housekeepers, as good as those made with fresh fruit, and they can be +made in less time and are less expensive. + +The only difference between canning apples for pies and salads or +whole is that when wanted for pies the apples should be sliced +immediately after placing in cold slightly salted water. + +Canning Quartered Apples for Fruit Salads. Select best-grade culls +of firm and rather tart varieties. Core, pare and quarter. Drop into +basin containing slightly salted cold water. Pack these quartered +pieces tightly in jars. Add a cup of hot thin sirup to each quart. +Place rubber and top in position, partially seal--not tight. Sterilize +twelve minutes in hot-water bath and condensed-steam outfits; ten +minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes under five pounds of steam +pressure; four minutes in aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, +tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. Store. + + +ORANGES + +Canning Whole Oranges and Other Citrus Fruits. Select windfall or +packing-plant culls. Use no unsound or decayed fruit. Remove skin and +white fiber on surface. Blanch fruit in boiling water one and a half +minutes. Dip quickly in cold water. Pack containers full. Add boiling +hot thin sirup. Place rubber and cap in position and partially +seal--not tight. + +Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; eight minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes in +steam-pressure outfit under five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert +to cool and test joints. Wrap glass jars with paper to prevent +bleaching, and store. + +Canning Sliced Oranges for Salad Purposes. The oranges may be +divided into their natural sections or sliced with a knife. Pack jars +or containers full. Pour over product hot thin sirup. Place rubber and +cap in position. Partially seal--not tight. Sterilize ten minutes in +hot-water-bath and condensed-steam outfits; six minutes in water-seal +outfit; five minutes in steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of +steam; four minutes in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit under ten +pounds of steam. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +the joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching, and store. + + +PEARS, QUINCES AND RHUBARB + +Pears are prepared and canned just as the whole firm apples are, being +blanched a minute and a half, cold-dipped and sterilized for the same +length of time as apples. + +Quinces are so very hard they must be blanched like pineapples, but +for a longer time. Six minutes' blanching is usually sufficient for +quinces. The sterilizing period can be determined by looking at the +chart. + +If skins are left on rhubarb it keeps its pink color. The hot dip is +not necessary and may be omitted. It removes some of the excessive +acid in the rhubarb which makes it objectionable to some people. Be +very careful not to hot-dip the rhubarb more than one minute, for it +gets mushy. An advantage of the hot dip is that more rhubarb can be +packed in a jar after it has been hot-dipped. + + +WHAT A BUSHEL OF FRUIT WILL YIELD + +A great many women have no conception of how many jars of fruit they +will get from a bushel or half bushel of produce. It is wise to have a +little knowledge along this line, for it aids in planning the winter's +supply of canned goods as well as at marketing time. + +From one bushel of the various fruits you will get on the average the +following: + + PRODUCTS, 1 BUSHEL PINT JARS QUART JARS + + Windfall apples 30 20 + + Standard peaches 25 18 + + Pears 45 30 + + Plums 45 30 + + Berries 50 30 + + Windfall oranges--sliced 22 15 + + Windfall oranges--whole 35 22 + + +CANNING WITHOUT SUGAR + +Though all instructions indicate that sugar is necessary for the +canning of all kinds of fruits, it is not necessary for their proper +sterilization and preservation. Any fruit may be successfully +sterilized by simply adding boiling water instead of the hot sirup. It +is a well-known fact, however, that most fruits canned in water will +not retain so well their natural flavor, texture and color as fruit +canned in sirup. When the product is to be used for pies, salads, and +so on it is not necessary to can in sirup. When fruits canned in water +are to be used for sauces, the products should be sweetened before +use. In many instances it requires more sugar to sweeten a sauce after +canning than it does when the product is canned in the hot sirup. + +However, during the World War we had a good chance to test the fruits +which we canned without sugar, when that commodity was scarce and, in +fact, impossible to get in very large quantities. We used our fruits +just as they were and considered them very good. This all goes to show +that we can easily adjust ourselves to prevailing conditions. In +canning without the sugar sirup, you would follow these directions: + +Cull, stem or seed, and clean fruit by placing in a strainer and +pouring water over it until clean. Pack product thoroughly in glass +jars until full; use table knife or tablespoon for packing purposes. +Pour over the fruit boiling water from kettle, place rubbers and caps +in position, partially seal glass jars and place produce in canner. + +If using hot-water-bath outfit sterilize from twenty to thirty +minutes. After sterilizing remove packs, seal glass jars, wrap in +paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry cool place. + +When using a steam-pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath +sterilize for ten minutes with five pounds of steam pressure. Never +allow the pressure to go over ten pounds when you are canning soft +fruits. + + +WHEN TO CAN + +Inexperienced canners may not know when certain fruits are in season +and at their prime for canning. The list below is necessarily subject +to change, as seasons vary from year to year; but in normal years this +table would hold true for the Northern States. + + Apples September + Apricots August + Blackberries August + Cherries July + Currants July + Gooseberries July + Grapes September + Huckleberries July + Peaches August-September + Pears September + Pineapple June + Plums August + Quinces September + Raspberries July + Rhubarb All summer + Strawberries May-June + +For your canning you will need as your guide the charts on the pages +which follow. They are very simple and will tell you how to prepare +all the various fruits, whether or not they are to be blanched, and if +so exactly how many minutes, and how long to cook or sterilize the +products, according to the outfit you are using. + + + +CHART FOR CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +[A] NUMBER OF MINUTES TO BLANCH OR HOT-DIP +[B] IN HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212°F +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + KIND OF | [A] |[B] |[C] |[D] |[E] |[F] |REMARKS + FRUIT/PREPARATION | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + APRICOTS: To remove|1 to 2| 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + skins hot-dip and | | | | | | |medium-thick + cold-dip. Can be | | | | | | |sirup + canned with the | | | | | | | + skins. Pits give a | | | | | | | + good flavor | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + BLACKBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + BLUEBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CHERRIES: Wash, | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + remove stems, and | | | | | | |sirup if sour; + remove pits if | | | | | | |thin sirup if + desired. If pitted | | | | | | |sweet + save the juice | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + CURRANTS: Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CRANBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + DEWBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + FIGS: Wash and stem| None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Figs can be + | | | | | | |hot- dipped for + | | | | | | |a minute or two + | | | | | | |if desired. + | | | | | | |Hot-dipping + | | | | | | |shrinks the + | | | | | | |figs so more + | | | | | | |can be packed + | | | | | | |in a jar + | | | | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + and snip off stems | | | | | | |medium-thick + and blossom ends | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + GRAPES Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + HUCKLEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + PEACHES Blanch and | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 |*10 | X |*Use only 5 + cold-dip, then | | | | | | |pounds + remove skins. | | | | | | |pressure. If + | | | | | | |peaches are + | | | | | | |canned under + | | | | | | |more than 5 + | | | | | | |pounds of + | | | | | | |pressure they + | | | | | | |become + | | | | | | |flavorless and + | | | | | | | + PLUMS Wash; stones | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |For sweet plums + may be removed if | | | | | | |use thin or + desired. | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup; for sour + | | | | | | |plums use + | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RASPBERRIES pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RHUBARB Wash, cut | 1 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Be very careful + into ½ inch pieces.| | | | | | |not to hot-dip + Use sharp knife | | | | | | |the rhubarb + | | | | | | |more than one + | | | | | | |minute, for it + | | | | | | |gets mushy + | | | | | | | + STRAWBERRIES Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + over, wash and hull| | | | | | |medium-thick + | | | | | | |sirup + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + HARD FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | | | | | | + APPLES Pare, core |1½ to | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + and cut into halves| 2 | | | | | | + or smaller pieces | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PEARS Wash, pare or| 1½ | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + not as desired. | | | | | | | + Small pears may be | | | | | | | + canned whole or | | | | | | | + quartered | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PINEAPPLE Cut into | 5 | 30 | 30 | 25 | 25 | 18 |Use thin or + slices or inch | | | | | | |medium-thin + cubes. The cores | | | | | | |sirup + can be removed | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUINCES Remove | 6 | 40 | 40 | 30 | 25 | 20 |Apples, pears + skins and cores. | | | | | | |and quinces + Cut into convenient| | | | | | |should be + slices | | | | | | |dropped into + | | | | | | |salt water to + | | | | | | |keep fruit from + | | | | | | |turning brown. + | | | | | | |Use salt in the + | | | | | | |proportion of + | | | | | | |one + | | | | | | |tablespoonful + WINDFALL APPLES FOR| | | | | | |to one gallon + | | | | | | |of water. Use + | | | | | | |thin + | | | | | | | + PIE FILLING Cut | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + into halves | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUARTERED APPLES | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + FOR SALAD | | | | | | |and save the + | | | | | | |sugar for other + | | | | | | |purposes + | | | | | | | + CRAB APPLES Pare | None | 16 | 16 | 8 | 5 | 5 |Can in water or + and core | | | | | | |use thin sirup + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + CITRUS FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + ORANGES, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + LEMONS, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + ORANGE AND OTHER | None | 10 | 10 | 6 | 5 | 4 |Use thin sirup + CITRUS FRUITS, | | | | | | | + SLICED Slice with a| | | | | | | + sharp knife | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + FRUITS CANNED IN | 30 | 30 | 20 | 12 | 10 | | + WATER WITHOUT SUGAR| | | | | | | + SIRUP | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + +NOTE.--When cooking products in pint or half-pint jars deduct three or +four minutes from the time given above. When cooking in two-quart jars +add 3 or 4 minutes to time. The estimates given are for quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +VEGETABLES + + +It is practical to can all vegetables, even such difficult ones as +corn, peas and beans, by the cold-pack method of canning without using +any preservatives, if you will follow all directions, instructions and +the time-table accurately. Vegetable canning is a little more +complicated than fruit canning. + + +TOMATOES + +Every one likes canned tomatoes. In many homes more tomatoes are +canned than any other product. The housewife uses them for soups, for +sauces and for seasoning many meat dishes. Some women say: "I can +preserve everything but tomatoes. They always spoil. What do I do +wrong?" If the following directions are followed tomatoes will not +spoil. + +Tomatoes really are the easiest vegetable to can, because the period +of sterilization is short, and many jars may be canned in a day, or if +one is very busy a few jars may be canned daily without the +expenditure of a great deal of time. + +The best tomatoes for canning are those of moderate size, smooth and +uniformly ripe. When a tomato ripens unevenly or when it is misshapen, +it is difficult to peel, and the percentage of waste is high. Tomatoes +should not be picked when they are green or partly ripe, for the +flavor will not be so good as when they are allowed to remain upon +the vines until fully ripe. Care should be taken, however, not to +allow them to become overripe before canning. + +In no instance should a tomato with a rotten spot be canned, even +though the spot is cut out, for the occasional spoiled jar resulting +from this attempted saving will cost more than the partly spoiled +tomatoes are worth. If the housewife will can only uniformly ripe, +sound tomatoes, saving the small, uneven but sound fruit for tomato +_purée_, she will have a much better-looking pack and greater food +value at the close of the season. Yellow tomatoes may be canned in the +same manner as are the more common red varieties, except that it is +not necessary to remove the cores. + +First of all, grade for ripeness, size and quality; this is to insure +a high-grade product. We could, of course, can different sizes and +shades together, but uniform products are more pleasing to the eye and +will sterilize much more evenly. If the products are of the same +ripeness and quality, the entire pack will receive the proper degree +of cooking. + +Wash the tomatoes. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Put the +tomatoes in a wire basket, or lay them on a piece of cheesecloth or a +towel, twist the ends together to form a sack, and let this down into +the kettle. It is a good plan to slip a rubber band round the neck of +this sack to hold the ends in place. The ends should be long enough to +stand up out of the water and so avoid danger of burning the fingers +when removing the product. + +Have the water boiling hard. Lower the tomatoes into the boiling +water. This is called scalding the tomatoes. We scald the tomatoes to +loosen the skin. If the tomatoes are very ripe, one minute scalding +will be sufficient. The average length of time for tomatoes, just +perfect for canning, is one and a half minutes. Do not leave the +tomatoes in the hot water until the skins break, as this gives them a +fuzzy appearance. + +The scalding kettle always should be covered, to keep in all the heat +possible. Begin to time from the minute the product is immersed in the +boiling water. If you wait until the water comes back to a boil, you +will scald the product too long and have mushy tomatoes. + +Lift the tomatoes out of the hot water and plunge them immediately +into cold water, or hold them under the cold-water faucet. The +cold-dip makes them easier to handle, separates the skin from the +pulp, firms the texture, and coagulates the coloring matter so it +stays near the surface, giving them a rich, red color. Then the shock +due to the sudden change from hot to cold and back to hot again seems +to help kill the spores. Do not let the product stand in the cold-dip. +The water becomes lukewarm, softens the product and allows bacteria to +develop. + +Take the tomato in the left hand and with a sharp knife cut out the +core. Be careful not to cut into the fleshy portion or seed cells, for +this will scatter the seeds and pulp through the liquid, injuring the +appearance of the product. Cut out the core before removing the skin, +for the skin will protect the pulp and there will be less danger of +breaking the tomato. If the tomatoes are ripe and have been scalded +properly, the skin can be slipped off with the fingers. + +The jars, rubbers and tops should be ready. Glass jars should be hot, +so there will be no danger of breakage in setting them in the hot +water, and so they will not cool the water in the cooker below the +boiling point. + +Pack the tomatoes whole, pressing and shaking them well down together, +but not using force enough to crush them. + +Now we come to a point where tomatoes are different from most +vegetables. Beans, carrots, peas, and so on, have hot water added to +them. But as a large part of the tomato is water, no more is needed. +Another exception where no water is needed is with the "greens +family." So with tomatoes we add no water, but add one teaspoonful of +salt and one teaspoonful of sugar, just for seasoning, to every quart +jar. I think that tomatoes always are improved by the addition of a +little sugar, but this is not necessary and can be omitted, as also +can be the salt. + +The salt in canning does not act as a preservative, but as seasoning; +so if for any reason you forget the salt, do not be alarmed. Your +products will keep perfectly without the salt. + + +THE WAY TO SEAL + +The products are in the hot jars now. The jars do not need to be full +in order to keep. If you were canning by the "open-kettle" method, the +air in the partly filled jar would not have been sterilized, and might +contain the bacteria which cause the product to ferment or mold. But +by the cold pack, the air in the can is sterilized while the product +is being sterilized; and if the can is closed immediately after +cooking, a single spoonful may be canned in a two-quart jar and the +product will keep indefinitely. + +Place Rubber and Cover on Jar. Fit the rubber. Use good rubbers and +see that they lie flat and fit close up to the can. Put the covers in +place. + +Do Not Seal Glass Jars Tight. If using screw-top jars screw each +cover down until it catches, then turn a quarter of a round back; or +screw down with the thumb and little finger, not using force but +stopping when the cover catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +If using glass-top jars, with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while processing, because +the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is not loose enough +to allow the steam to escape, the pressure may blow the rubber out or +break the jar. + +When canning in tin we cap and tip the cans at once. The tin will +bulge out, but is strong enough to withstand the pressure, and when +the contents cool the can will come back into shape. + +The jars are now ready for the canner. Tomatoes sterilized under +boiling water require twenty-two minutes; in condensed-steam cooker, +twenty-two minutes; in water-seal, eighteen minutes; in +steam-pressure, with five pounds, fifteen minutes, and in the pressure +cooker, at ten or fifteen pounds, ten minutes. + +If you use the homemade outfit or any water-bath outfit be sure the +water is boiling when the jars of tomatoes are lowered into the +canner. Time lost in bringing the contents to the point of +sterilization softens the tomatoes and results in inferior goods. Use +the ordinary good sense with which you have been endowed in handling +the jars and you will have no breakage. At the end of the sterilizing +period, remove the jars. + +In taking canned goods from boiling hot water, care is needed to see +that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows +and doors while lifting the jars out, for a sudden draft might break +them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes, if the +covers are screwed down too tight, the pressure of the steam from the +inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a +thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. In +case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber, it should be replaced by a new one and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert to test the joint and cool. If the seal is not perfect, correct +the fault, and return the jar to the cooker for five minutes if hot, +ten minutes if jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool and +then tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only a half inch, holding it over the +table so that, in case the lid does not hold, the jar and contents +will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the +cover with a ruler. An imperfect seal will cause a hollow sound. + +Tomato Purée. Small, misshapen, unevenly ripened tomatoes may be +converted into tomato _purée_. The tomatoes should be washed, run +through a colander to remove skins and cores, concentrated by cooking +to about half the original volume, and packed in the jars. Rubbers and +tops should then be placed in position and the product sterilized for +the same length of time as for canned tomatoes. _Purée_ even may be +kept in bottles sealed with sterilized corks and dipped several times +in paraffin. + + +HOW OTHER VEGETABLES ARE CANNED + +All other vegetables are canned exactly like tomatoes, with two +exceptions. Tomatoes are scalded. All other vegetables are blanched. +We scald tomatoes to loosen the skins and to start the flow of the +coloring matter, which is later arrested or coagulated by the +cold-dip. + +Blanching is scalding, only for a longer time. Scalding is never for +more than two minutes. Blanching covers from three to thirty minutes. + +We blanch beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, and so +on, for three to ten minutes. We blanch these vegetables to eliminate +any objectionable acids or bitter flavors which may be present, and +thus improve the flavor; to reduce the bulk so we can pack closer; to +start the flow of the coloring matter; to improve the texture of the +vegetables by making them more tender, and to improve the appearance +by helping to make clear the liquid in the jar. Blanching is what +makes for success in the cold-pack method of canning. Blanching is +_very_ important and must be carefully and accurately done. + +Let me repeat about blanching: Have the kettle of blanching water +_boiling vigorously, completely immerse_ the product in the boiling +water, cover the kettle _immediately_ and begin to time the product. +Do not stand with the cover in hand and wait for the water to come +back to the boil, for, of course, it stopped boiling for a second when +you lowered into it the cold product. If you cover the kettle the +water will quickly reboil. Do not keep wondering if it is boiling and +take off the cover to see. All these may seem foolish precautions, but +it is necessary to follow directions accurately. + +And remember, all things that are scalded or blanched must be followed +immediately by a cold plunge or "cold-dip." The scalding or blanching +is the "hot-dip," and this must be followed by the "cold-dip." You may +be asking, what is the point of this "cold-dip"? It is a very logical +question. + +We "cold-dip" a product to harden the pulp under the skin and thus +permit the removal of the skin without injury to the pulp; to +coagulate the coloring matter and make it harder to dissolve during +the sterilization period and to make it easier to handle the products +in packing, and to subject the product to a sudden shock by quick +change in temperature. + + +STEPS IN CANNING VEGETABLES + +If you will follow these steps for all vegetable canning you cannot +help but be successful: + +1. Clean jars and test rubbers. If rubbers do not return to normal +shape after stretching, do not use. + +2. Prepare material to be canned, according to directions given on +chart. + +3. Hot-dip--blanch or scald--the prepared food. This process consists +of immersing the prepared product in boiling water for different +lengths of time, according to the material to be canned. See chart. +Hot-dipping shrinks the product and enables one to pack more material +in a jar. + +4. Cold-dip the material. This process consists of plunging the +blanched or scalded food into cold water, which makes it more easily +handled. Be sure the water is cold; the colder the better. + +Take the product out immediately and let it drain. _Don't let any food +soak in the cold water._ + +From this point on, speed is highly important. The blanched vegetables +which are slightly warm must not be allowed to remain out of the jars +a moment longer than is necessary. + +Remove skins when required, and as each article is pared cut it into +pieces of proper size and + +5. Pack directly into the clean, scalded cans or jars. Pack as solidly +as possible, being careful not to bruise or mash soft products. Pack +the product to within three-eighths of an inch of the top. Lima beans, +navy beans, peas, corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell, so pack them +within only one inch of the top of the jar. + +6. Add seasoning. One teaspoonful salt to every quart jar of +vegetables, and an equal amount of sugar to tomatoes, corn and peas if +desired. + +7. Add boiling water to within a quarter inch of top to all +vegetables, except tomatoes and greens. Tomatoes contain ninety-four +per cent water, so none should be added. Tomato juice can be used if +desired. Greens are canned in just the water that clings to the +leaves after the cold-dip. + +8. Adjust rubber rings and the covers of the jars; partially seal. + +9. Sterilize--see time-table on pages following. + +10. Remove from canner and completely seal. Test for leaks. Cool jars +as rapidly as possible, without drafts striking them. + +Rapid cooling of the product prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture of the product. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR VARIOUS VEGETABLES + +Greens. No water is added to greens. Ninety percent of greens is +water. They are high in mineral matter and we must preserve that. + +Asparagus. Remove string before packing in jar. Can or dry tough ends +for soup. If asparagus is packed in jars as whole stalks, pack with +the tips up. + +Tomatoes. Remove skins before packing. Tomatoes may be canned whole or +in pieces. Skin, cook and strain imperfect tomatoes. Use this for +liquid; as 94 per cent of the tomato is water, no water is needed. + +Eggplants. Make slices about ½ to ¾ of an inch thick. Do not add salt, +as it causes eggplants to turn dark. + +Pumpkin and squash. If you do not wish to scrape out of the shells you +can remove seeds, pare and cut into small blocks of uniform size. Then +blanch. + +Sweet corn. Corn expands a little in processing, and for this reason +jars should not be filled quite full. Corn that has reached the dough +stage before being packed will have a cheesy appearance after +canning. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the cold-dip water. + +Field corn. This product is commonly known as corn-club breakfast +food. The corn should be selected between the milk and the dough +stage. Wide-mouthed glass jars or tin cans should be used for canning +this product. Avoid packing container too full, as the product swells +during the sterilization period. The corn should be canned the same +day it is picked from the field if possible. After this product has +been sterilized and cooked and stored away it will form a solid, +butter-like mass which may be cut into convenient slices for toasting, +frying and baking purposes. + +Mushrooms. Do not fail to blanch and cold dip. After opening +containers remove the mushrooms immediately and use them as quickly as +possible. + +Sweet peppers. Place the peppers in the oven and bake them until the +skins separate from the meat. Remove the skin. Pack in hot jars. Add 1 +teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Add boiling water. + +Lima beans. Lima beans can be either blanched or steamed. If blanched +allow 5 minutes; if in live steam allow 10. + +Wax or string beans. Beans can be canned whole or cut into uniform +pieces. + +Cabbage and cauliflower. Cabbage and cauliflower should be soaked in +cold brine (½ lb. salt to 12 quarts water) for one hour before +blanching. + +Brussels sprouts. Use small solid heads. + +Peas. A cloudy or hazy appearance of the liquid indicates that the +product was roughly handled in blanching and cold dipping, or that +broken peas were not removed before packing. + +Carrots and parsnips. Carrots can be packed whole, in slices or in +cross-section pieces. Skin of parsnips can be scraped off after +blanching and cold dipping. + +Beets. Small beets that run 40 to a quart are the most suitable size +for first-class packs. Well-canned beets will show a slight loss of +color when removed from the canner, but will brighten up in a few +days. + +Turnips. Scrape skin after blanching and cold dipping. + +Corn and tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to every quart of +mixture. Mix 2 parts of tomatoes with 1 part corn. One teaspoonful of +sugar improves the flavor. + +Corn, tomatoes and string beans. Use 1 part of corn, 1 part of green +string beans and 3 parts of tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt and 1 +teaspoonful of sugar to every quart jar. + +CHARTS FOR CANNING ALL VEGETABLES AND GREENS + +[A] SCALDING OR BLANCHING MINUTES +[B] IN BOILING WATER OR HOMEMADE OUTFIT (212°F.) +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + VEGETABLES/ NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 1--Greens, Domestic and Wild +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ALL GREENS--SPINACH, |Steam in | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at +BEET TOPS, CHARD, |colander or | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. +DANDELIONS, ETC. |in steamer | | | | | + Pick over; wash in |until wilted| | | | | + several waters. |Takes about | | | | | + |15 minutes. | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 2 --Special Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ASPARAGUS |Blanch tough| 90 | 90 | 60 | 50 |25, at + Wash, remove woody |ends 4 |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)| |10 lbs. + ends; cut to fit |minutes, tip| | | | | + jar; tie in bundles.|ends 2 | | | | | + | minutes. | | | | | + | | | | | | +TOMATOES Select | Scald 1½ | 22 | 22 | 18 | 18 |10, at + fresh, ripe, firm | | | | | |10 lbs. + tomatoes. Skins | | | | | | + will slip off after| | | | | | + scalding and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +EGGPLANTS Remove skin| Blanch 3 | 60 | 60 | 50 | 45 |30, at + after blanching | | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |10 lbs. + and cold dipping. | | | | | | + Slice crosswise and| | | | | | + pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +PUMPKIN AND SQUASH | Blanch 5 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections; | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + remove seeds; | | | | | | + scrape shells after| | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--SWEET | 5 on cob | 180 | 180 | 120 | 90 |60, at + Cut corn from cob, | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)|10 lbs. + blanch immediately | | | | | | + after and cold dip.| | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--FIELD | 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |50, at + Remove husk and | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + silk. Cut the corn | | | | | | + from the cob after | | | | | | + it has been blanched| | | | | | + and cold dipped. | | | | | | + Feed the corn to a | | | | | | + food chopper and | | | | | | + grind to a pulp. | | | | | | + Cook this product | | | | | | + in a kettle, add | | | | | | + 2/3 teaspoonful | | | | | | + sugar and 1/3 | | | | | | + teaspoonful salt to| | | | | | + each quart. Cook | | | | | | + (stir while cooking)| | | | | | + until the product | | | | | | + has assumed a | | | | | | + thickened or | | | | | | + pastelike mass. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +MUSHROOMS If small, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 50 |30, at + can them whole; if | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)|(1-1/3 | |10 lbs. + large they may be | | | | hr) | | + cut into sections. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +SWEET PEPPERS Use | .. | 90 | 90 | 75 | 60 |40, at + either green or red| |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)|(1¾ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + peppers. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 3--Pod Vegetables and Other Green Products +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +BEANS--LIMA | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | | | +BEANS--WAX OR STRING | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Wash and string. | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | | | +CABBAGE Use small | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + solid heads of | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + cabbage. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CAULIFLOWER Use | 3 | 60 | 60 | 40 | 30 |20, at + flowered portion of| | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |15 lbs. + cauliflower. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BRUSSELS SPROUTS | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + and remove core. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +PEAS | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. Add| | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 to + 1 teaspoonful of | | | | | |15 lbs. + salt and 1 tea- | | | | | | + spoonful of sugar | | | | | | + toevery quart. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 4--Roots and Tuber Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +CARROTS, PARSNIPS, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at +SALSIFY | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + Remove skin by | | | | hr) | | + scraping after | | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BEETS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + To retain the color| |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + of beets leave 3 or| | | | hr) | | + 4 inches of the | | | | | | + stem and all the | | | | | | + root on while | | | | | | + blanching. After | | | | | | + cold dipping, the | | | | | | + skin may be removed| | | | | | + Scrape the skin. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +TURNIPS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + Wash thoroughly | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + with a vegetable | | | | hr) | | + brush. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +Class 5--Vegetable Combinations +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +CORN AND TOMATOES | | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + Prepare individual | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + vegetables and then| | | | | | + combine and pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN, TOMATOES AND | | | | | | +STRING BEANS | | | | | | + Corn | 3 | | | | | + Tomatoes | 1½ | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + String beans | 5 | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + +Count from time when water begins to boil (bubbles all over). This +time schedule is for both pint and quart jars. Add 30 minutes to time +of sterilizing for 2-quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +SOUPS + + +After one has learned how to can fruits and vegetables successfully, +the next thing to attempt is the canning of soups. + +Soups may be canned with or without meat. We make one variety which is +a pure vegetable soup. We use no stock or meat, and can it in its own +juice or liquor, thus using no water. + +When we wish to use it we dilute it three or four times and serve it +as a vegetable soup or, more frequently, when we have chicken bones or +any meat bones on hand, we add a can of this concentrated vegetable +mixture to the bones and make a delicious stock soup. + +I will give this recipe as I have given it to many friends, all of +whom have pronounced it excellent: + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes + 1 Head cabbage + 1 Dozen carrots + 1 White turnip + 3 Pounds string beans + 1 Pound okra + 3 Red peppers + 1 Peck spinach + 2 Pounds asparagus + 6 Small beets + 6 Ears sweet corn + +Scald the tomatoes by placing them in a wire basket and plunging them +into boiling water for one and a half minutes. Cold-dip them +immediately. After removing the core and stem end of the tomato, the +skin slips right off. Save all the tomato juice. Cut the tomatoes into +quarters. Put into a large pail or bucket with the juice. Blanch the +cabbage, carrots, turnip, string beans, okra and sweet red peppers +five minutes. Cold-dip. Of course you blanch and cold-dip each product +separately. Cut each vegetable after it is blanched and cold-dipped +into small cubes and add to the tomatoes. + +Spinach must be carefully washed to remove all grit and sand. All +greens must be washed through several waters to cleanse them +thoroughly. + +Instead of blanching the spinach in a kettle of boiling water, as we +do the other vegetables, we steam it by placing it in a colander over +boiling water or in a regulation steamer with tightly fitting cover, +such as is used for steaming suet puddings and brown bread. If you can +with a steam-pressure canner or a pressure cooker, then steam the +spinach there. If we boiled the spinach for fifteen or twenty minutes +we would lose a quantity of the mineral salts, the very thing we aim +to get into our systems when we eat spinach, dandelion greens, Swiss +chard and other greens. After the blanching or steaming comes the cold +dip. + +There is something about blanching asparagus, either for soups or when +canned alone, that is worth knowing. Instead of blanching the whole +stalk of asparagus for the same length of time, we use a little +discretion, giving the tougher, harder ends a full four minutes' +blanching, but allowing the tender tip ends only two minutes. You are +possibly wondering how that is done. + +Tie the asparagus stalks in bunches and put the bunches with all the +tips standing one way on a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth or snap +rubber bands round it, and then stand the asparagus in boiling water +in an upright position for two minutes; next lay the asparagus +lengthwise in the blanching water for another two minutes, and you +have accomplished your purpose. You have given the tougher parts two +minutes' more blanching than the tender parts. Use a deep enough +kettle so the asparagus will be completely covered when laid +lengthwise. After the blanching, cold-dip the asparagus. + +Wash the beets. Leave two inches of the top and all the tail on the +beets while blanching. Blanch for five minutes, then cold-dip. Next +scrape off the skin, top and tail. The tops can be put right into the +soup too. Any surplus tops can be steamed with the spinach and can be +treated similarly. + +Blanch corn on the cob five minutes. Cold-dip. Cut the corn from the +cob, cutting from tip to butt end. Add the corn to the other +vegetables. Add no water. Pack the mixed vegetables into clean glass +jars; add one level teaspoonful of salt to every jar; partially seal; +cook one hour and a half in wash-boiler or other homemade outfit. At +the end of that period remove jars from canner, seal tight, and the +work is done. + +Of course you are interested in the cost of this soup. Most of the +ingredients came right from our garden. We had to buy the okra and the +red peppers, but I figured everything just as if I had to buy it from +the market; and on this basis, the cost of our soup would have been +only seven and a half cents a can. We canned it in tin, using size +Number Two, which is the same as pint size in glass jars. + +Another vegetable soup without stock, dried beans and peas being used, +is made as follows: + +Soak six pounds of Lima beans and four pounds of dry peas over night. +Boil each thirty minutes. Blanch sixteen pounds of carrots, six pounds +of cabbage, three pounds of celery, six pounds of turnips, four pounds +of okra, one pound of onions, and four pounds of parsley for three +minutes and dip in cold water quickly. Prepare the vegetables and chop +into small cubes. Chop the onions and celery extra fine. Mix all of +them thoroughly and season to taste. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. +Fill with boiling water. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; sixty minutes if using water-seal outfit or +five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure +cooker. + +In many homes cream of tomato soup is the favorite. To make this soup +the housewife uses a tomato pulp and combines it with milk and +seasonings. You can can a large number of jars of this pulp and have +it ready for the cream soup. To make and can this pulp follow these +directions: + +Tomato Pulp. Place the tomatoes in a wire basket or piece of +cheesecloth and plunge into boiling water for one and a half minutes. +Plunge into cold water. Remove the skins and cores. Place the tomatoes +in a kettle and boil thirty minutes. Pass the tomato pulp through a +sieve. Pack in glass jars while hot and add a level teaspoonful of +salt per quart. Partially seal glass jars. Sterilize twenty minutes if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighteen +minutes if using water-seal, or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +fifteen minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soup Stock. To make the soup stock which is the foundation of all +the stock soups, use this recipe: + +Secure twenty-five pounds of beef hocks, joints and bones containing +marrow. Strip off the fat and meat and crack bones with hatchet or +cleaver. Put the broken bones in a thin cloth sack and place this in a +large kettle containing five gallons of cold water. Simmer--do not +boil--for six or seven hours. Do not salt while simmering. Skim off +all fat. This should make about five gallons of stock. Pack hot in +glass jars, bottles or enameled or lacquered tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize forty minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; thirty minutes if +using water-seal or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; twenty-five +minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soups made with soup stock are many and varied. One can utilize the +things at hand and change the distinctive flavor from year to year. I +will give you a few good specimen recipes which if followed will give +good results: + +Vegetable Soup. Soak a quarter pound dried Lima beans and one pound +unpolished rice for twelve hours. Cook a half pound pearl barley for +two hours. Blanch one pound carrots, one pound onions, one medium-size +potato and one red pepper for three minutes and cold-dip. Prepare the +vegetables and cut into small cubes. Mix thoroughly Lima beans, rice, +barley, carrots, onions, potato and red pepper. Fill glass jars or the +enameled tin cans three-fourths full of the above mixture of +vegetables and cereals. Make a smooth paste of a half pound of wheat +flour and blend in five gallons soup stock. Boil three minutes and add +four ounces salt. Pour this stock over vegetables and fill cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety +minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using a water-seal or five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Pea Soup. Soak eight pounds of dried peas over night. Cook +until soft. Mash fine. Add the mashed peas to five gallons of soup +stock and bring to boil. Pass the boiling liquid through a fine sieve. +Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour and add paste, ten ounces of +sugar and three ounces of salt to the soup stock. Cook until soup +begins to thicken. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighty minutes if +using water-seal outfit; seventy minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Potato Soup. Boil one and a half pounds of potatoes, sliced +thin, and five gallons of soup stock for ten minutes. Add three ounces +of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper and a half pound of butter +and boil slowly for five minutes. Make three tablespoonfuls of flour +into smooth paste and add to the above. Cook three minutes and pack in +glass jars or tin cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety minutes if using a hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a +water-seal outfit; sixty-five minutes if using a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using a pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Bean Soup. Soak three pounds of dried beans twelve hours in cold +water. Cut two pounds of ham into quarter-inch cubes and place in a +small sack. Place beans, ham and four gallons of water in kettle and +boil slowly until the beans are very soft. Remove the ham and beans +from the liquor and mash the beans fine. Return ham and mashed beans +to the liquor, add five gallons of soup stock and seasoning, and bring +to boil. Pack into jars or cans while hot. Partially seal jars. Cap +and tip tin cans. Process two hours if using hot-water-bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if using water-seal outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; sixty +minutes if using pressure cooker. + +Okra Soup. Slice eight pounds okra into thin slices the round way. +Blanch ten minutes and cold-dip. Boil one and a half pounds rice for +twenty-five minutes. Mix okra and rice and fill cans or jars half +full. To five gallons soup stock add five ounces salt, a quarter +teaspoonful of coriander seed and a quarter teaspoonful of powdered +cloves, and bring to boil. Fill remaining portion of jars or cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process two hours if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes +if using water-seal outfit; seventy-five minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; sixty minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Chicken-Soup Stock. Place thirty pounds chicken in ten gallons of +cold water and simmer for five hours. Remove meat and bones, then +strain. Add sufficient water to make ten gallons of stock. Fill glass +jars or tin cans with hot stock. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. This stock is used to make soup where the term +"chicken-soup stock" is used. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Broth With Rice. For each gallon of soup stock use twelve +ounces of rice. Boil rice thirty minutes. Fill jars or tin cans +two-thirds full of rice and the remainder with soup stock. Partially +seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Gumbo. Cut two pounds ham into small cubes and boil thirty +minutes. Mince three pounds chicken and chop half a pound of onions +fine. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour. Add above to five +gallons of chicken-soup stock. Then add a half pound butter and a +quarter pound salt and boil ten minutes. Next add three ounces +powdered okra mixed with one pint water. Pack into glass jars or tin +cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. +Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using water-seal +outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + + +TOMATO ACID CHECKS BACTERIA + +Some women who have canned soup tell me it spoiled or tasted "sourish +and smelled sourish too." This is what we call "flat sour." It may +happen to any vegetable you can, as well as to the soups. "Flat sour" +affects peas, beans, asparagus and corn more than other vegetables. If +the vegetables have been picked for some time and the bacteria have +had a chance "to work," and you are not exceedingly careful about your +canning, you may develop "flat sour" in the soup. If you let one +little spore of this bacteria survive all is lost. Its moist growing +place is favorable to development, particularly if not much acid is +present. One little spore left in a jar will multiply in twenty hours +to some twenty millions of bacteria. This twenty million can stand on +the point of a needle, so a can could acquire quite a large population +in a short time. Bacteria do not like acids, so it is always a good +idea to have tomatoes in your soup mixture, and get the tomatoes into +the stone crock early in the game. The tomato acid will safeguard the +other vegetables which lack acid. + +If you are careless about the blanching and cold-dipping--that is, not +doing these full time--if you work too slowly in getting the products +into jars and then let the full jars stand in the warm atmosphere, you +are pretty sure to develop "flat sour." + +Place each jar in the canner as it is packed. The first jars in will +not be affected by the extra cooking. Have the water just below the +boiling point as you put in each jar. When you have the canner full +bring the water to the boiling point as quickly as possible and begin +to count cooking or sterilizing time from the moment it does boil. + +Some women make the mistake at the end of the cooking period of +letting the jars remain in the boiling water, standing on the false +bottom of the canner until they are cool enough to handle with no +danger of burning the hands. This slow method of cooling not only +tends to create "flat sour," but it is apt to result in cloudy-looking +jars and in mushy vegetables. + +For this reason you should have in your equipment a lifter with which +you can lift out the hot jars without the hands touching them. If you +use a rack with wire handles this answers the same purpose. + +This "flat sour," which is not at all dangerous from the standpoint of +health, must not be confused with the botulinus bacteria, which is an +entirely different thing. + +"Flat sour," perfectly harmless, appears often with inexperienced +canners. Botulinus, harmful, appears rarely. You need not be at all +alarmed about eating either "flat sour" or botulinus, because the odor +from spoiled goods is so distasteful--it really resembles rancid +cheese--that you would never get a spoon of it to your mouth. + +If you are debating whether this jar or that jar of soup or vegetables +is spoiled, do not _taste_ the contents of the jar. _Smell_ it. +Tasting might poison you if you happened on the botulinus bacteria, +which is so rare it need alarm no one; whereas smelling is perfectly +safe. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR SOUPS + + +GRAY SOUP WITHOUT STOCK + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes Scald 1½ Remove core and stem end. + 1 Head cabbage 5} + 1 Dozen carrots 5} + 1 White turnip 5} Cut into cubes after blanching + 2 Pounds string beans 5} + 1 Pound okra 5} + 3 Red peppers 5} + + 1 Peck spinach Steam 15 minutes or until + thoroughly wilted. + 2 Pounds asparagus 4 Cut into small pieces after + blanching. + 6 Small beets 5 Cut into slices after blanching. + 6 Ears sweet corn 5 Cut from cob after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT STOCK, USING DRY LEGUMES + + 6 Pounds dried Lima beans} { Soak over night, then boil + 4 Pounds dried peas } { for one half hour. + 16 Pounds carrots 3} + 6 Pounds cabbage 3} Cut into small cubes after + 3 Pounds celery 3} blanching. + 6 Pounds turnips 3} + 4 Pounds okra 3 Cut into slices after blanching. + 1 Pound onions 3 Chop fine after blanching. + 4 Pounds parsley 3 Cut into pieces after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Stock Soups) + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + 25 Pounds beef hocks, + joints and bones Simmer for 6 or 7 hours. + 5 Gallons water Should make 5 Gallons + stock. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 40. + In condensed steam outfit, 40. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 30. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 30. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 25. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITH STOCK + + ¼ Pounds dried Lima beans Soak 12 hours. + 1 Pound rice Soak 12 hours. + ¼ Pound pearl barley Cook 2 hours. + 1 Pounds carrots 3} + 1 Pounds onions 3} Cut into small cubes after + 1 Potato 3} blanching. + 1 Red Pepper 3} + ½ Pound flour } { Make paste of flour and soup stock. + 5 Gallons soup stock } { Boil 3 minutes and add salt + 4 Ounces salt } { Pour over vegetables and fill cans. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF PEA SOUP + + 8 Pounds dried peas { Soak over-night and cook until soft. + { Mash peas fine. + 5 Gallons soup stock Add stock and boil. Put through sieve. + ½ Pound flour } { Make paste of flour, sugar and salt + 10 Ounces sugar } { and add to stock. Cook until thick. + 3 Ounces salt } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 80. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 70. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF POTATO SOUP + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 1½ Pounds potatoes } { Boil potatoes and stock + sliced thin } { 10 minutes. Add salt, + 5 Gallons soup stock } { pepper, butter and boil + 3 Ounces salt } { 5 minutes. Make flour + ¼ Teaspoonful pepper } { into paste and add. + ½ Pound butter } { Cook 3 minutes and can. + 3 Tablespoonfuls flour } + Boil potatoes and stock } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 65. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +BEAN SOUP + + 3 Pounds dried beans Soak 12 hours. + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into ¼ inch cubes. + 4 Gallons water } { Boil beans, ham and water + 5 Gallons soup stock } { until beans are soft. + Salt } { Mash beans fine. Add + { stock and salt. Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 120. + In condensed steam outfit, 120. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 60. + + +CHICKEN SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Chicken Soups) + + 30 Pounds chicken } + 10 Gallons cold water. } + Should make 10 gallons } Simmer 5 hours. Can. + stock when finished } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CHICKEN GUMBO + + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into small cubes + and boil 30 minutes. + 3 Pounds chicken Mince chicken. + ½ Pound onions Chop onions. + ½ Pound flour Make paste of flour. + 5 Gallons chicken soup + stock Add all this to soup stock. + ½ Pound butter } + ¼ Pound salt } { Add butter and salt. Boil + 3 Ounces powdered okra } { 10 minutes. Then add + mixed with pint of } { okra mixed with water. + water } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + +For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly +acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is just a +little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or overripe +fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. This +fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. Such +fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin and +are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits. + +The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of +pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, +though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other +marmalades. + +Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be made +into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and lemons to +them while cooking. + +So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is whether or +not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed over jelly +that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn the simple +test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains pectin or not is +a very easy matter. + +Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol--90 to 95 per cent.--and add +to it one tablespoonful of _cooked_ juice that has been cooled. The +effect of the alcohol is to bring together the pectin in a jelly-like +mass. If a large quantity of pectin is present it will appear in one +mass or clot which may be gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I +said _cooked_ juice. It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not +found in the juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the +cooked juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice. + +There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, raw +grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin. + +This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but it also +gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to juice. If +three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous mass or clot +this indicates that you should use three-fourths as much sugar as +juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less sugar. If the +pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin to make the +jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for flavoring ice cream +or some form of cooking. + +By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the jelly +texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be better. + +After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by washing, +stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an acid-proof +kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to prevent +burning--about one cup of water to every four or five quarts of fruit. +The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so forth. With less +juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough water to cover, or +follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. Use the cores, skins and +seeds; these improve the flavor and color of the jelly. + +Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered kettle, +stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When the simmering +point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked wooden masher. +When the fruit is tender or has a transparent appearance, it is ready +to strain. + +The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a large +mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie opposite +corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a flannel or +felt bag for straining the juice. + +What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When this +Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty +minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so many +housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do this, +empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving kettle, +cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then cover, bring +slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice that drips out +is called Extraction Two. + +The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out whether +there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin is present, +you can repeat the operation and get Extraction Three. + +Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you can +get as many as five extractions. + +You may say, "Why bother with extractions--why not squeeze the juice +and be done with it?" You will get clearer, better-flavored and more +glasses of jelly if you will make the extractions than if you squeeze +the jelly bag. + +I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but usually +combine Extraction Two and Three. + +The next step in jelly making is vitally important--that is, how much +sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is where many +housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the same proportion +of sugar to all juices. + +To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of sugar +must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough or +unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must be +used. + +Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in pectin +that they require equal amounts of sugar and juice--that is, to every +cup of extracted currant and grape juice we add one cup of sugar. + +Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup of +sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water in +the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of +juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples. + +It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large amount +of water is added than from the juicy fruits. + +I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the fruit +juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the boiling, +in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should the sugar be +hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the sugar in the +middle of the jelly-making process than at the beginning or the end. +Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, so as to lose as little +sugar as possible. + +If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and thus +the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it in a +granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, and stir +occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it. + +After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as quickly +as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent boiling. A +steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will produce good +results. + +Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from eight +to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or five +minutes. + +Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty +minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen minutes. + +The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking +thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. It +is the one sure, reliable test. + +The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you want a +very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it +immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees. + +If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour the +boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held horizontally. +If the sirup is done two drops will break simultaneously from the side +of the spoon. + +Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw a path +through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and the juice +does not run together, the jellying point has been reached. + +When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from the +fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized +glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to +prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full. + +Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at one +time. If new at the game make only four, because there is danger of +the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be removed. + +When the jellies are well set cover them with _hot_, not merely +melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs that may +fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the clean tin or +aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool place after proper +labeling. + + +STEPS IN JELLY MAKING + +1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and +contains a large amount of pectin. + +2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth. + +3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash +berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added if +necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small pieces; add +half as much water as fruit. + +4. Pour into dampened bag. + +5. Drain through closely woven bag. + +6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of sugar +to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of pectin, the +fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different fruits. To +make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold cooked fruit +juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake gently. Allow to stand +one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a lump add +three-fourths as much sugar as juice in making jelly. If the +precipitate--pectin--is not held together in a lump or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, add less sugar in +proportion to juice. If less than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to +make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and +so forth. + +7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook. + +8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or midway +in the process. + +9. Stir until sugar is dissolved. + +10. Cook rapidly, but not hard. + +11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a clean +spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from it. If +done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of spoon. Some +prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of spoon. Better still, +use thermometer. + +12. Remove from fire and skim. + +13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses. + +14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a little +coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily. + +15. Cover, label and store. + +No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter into +consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the amount of +water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of sugar to juice; +the more sugar used, the less time needed. + + +JAMS AND BUTTERS + +Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies. + +1. Carefully wash berries and fruits. + +2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not +convenient, use measuring cup. + +3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces. + +4. Add enough water to prevent sticking. + +5. Stir to keep from burning. + +6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken. + +7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part fruit. +That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a pound of +sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup of sugar. + +8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently. + +9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. When a +little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is thick +enough. + +10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or crystallized +ginger can be added if desired. + +11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of the +top. + +12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and store. + +Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made much as +are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and grapefruit +marmalades. + +Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and raisins +are often added to conserves. + +Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least +three-fourths of the weight of the fruit. + +If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or other wax +tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the cold-pack method +of canning. You may have containers with screw or bail tops which you +wish to use in this way. The following is one recipe showing how to +proceed. + +Cherry Preserves. Place one gallon of water in a kettle and add ten +pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen minutes. Add +twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until product is boiling at +a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in shallow pans. Pack into +glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip if +using enameled tin cans. If using a hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize +twenty minutes; if using a water-seal outfit, a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit or a pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen +minutes. Remove jars. Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the +joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching and store. When +using pressure-cooker outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during +period of sterilization. + +Fruit Juices. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and delicious drink +and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries and other small +fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a cloth sack, heated +for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs freely, and allowed to +drip. + +Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the +sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of the +bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 degrees, or +until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the cooker, and keep +at this temperature one hour and a half to two hours; or heat to 200 +degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise to the top of the water, +and hold at this temperature for thirty minutes. The hot water comes +up to the neck of the bottle. Cork without removing the cotton. If +canned in jars close the jar partly, and seal tight after cooking. + +Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a higher +temperature injures the flavor. + +Strawberry Preserves. 1. Add thirty-five ounces of sugar to one-half +pint of water; bring to a boil and skim. + +With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively +without floating and no sirup will be left over. + +To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds of +washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it +registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical thermometer. +If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is very +heavy--about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum. + +Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of the +hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as possible. +Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not fasten tightly. + +Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if possible. +Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the boiling water +for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least twenty-five +minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the conclusion of the +operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap to make sure that +the seal is absolutely tight. + +Recipe Number 2. The following method is preferred by some because +it leaves more of the natural color in the preserves: + +To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add +twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour +juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook to +222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack and +sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for all +other berries. + +When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the table, +they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick sirup +which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a cooling +summer drink. + +Strawberries--Sun Preserves. Select firm ripe berries; hull and +rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a single layer; sprinkle +sugar over them. Pour over them a thick sirup made of one quart of +water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled until very thick. + +Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them to +stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly glasses +and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin cans. Put +the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or seal if +using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time given below +for the particular type of outfit used: + + MINUTES + Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial 20 + Water seal, 214 degrees 15 + Steam pressure 10 + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, and test +the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent bleaching. + +When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on preserves, +remember to keep the valve open during the sterilizing. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + +Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a fine +flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter apples are +best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly in the spring, +add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple juice. + +Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple. + +Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious juices and +shrubs for summer beverages. + +The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 minutes. + +Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are rubbed +through a sieve. + +Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good +combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and strawberries. + +Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, pear and +pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin. + +One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious jelly; +currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 to July +3. + +Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days. + +Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too much +sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are satisfactory. + +If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than do +green-as-grass gooseberries. + +Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to test +for pectin before completing the process, to save time and effort. + +Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for conserves. + +An underripe, acid plum is best. + +Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly. + +Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit +being used for preserving. + +Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a rain, for +they will have absorbed so much water as to make it difficult, without +excessive boiling, to get the juice to "jell." + +Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. It +will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an otherwise +expensive jam "go a long way." + +Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized in +many ways. + +Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges. + +Lemon Marmalade. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are sliced, put in +kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 hours; then boil 2 +hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour longer. + +Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are +usually combined with grapefruit. + +All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh and not +overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if made from +fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are +still green. + +CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + + + KIND OF FRUIT|CHARACTER OF| HOW TO | AMOUNT OF | AMOUNT OF + | FRUIT | PREPARE |WATER NEEDED| SUGAR NEEDED + | | |FOR COOKING | FOR JELLYING + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + APPLES, SOUR | Excellent | Wash, |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly |discard any | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | unsound | as fruit | cupful of + | | portions, | | juice + | | cut into | | + | | small | | + | | pieces. | | + | | Include | | + | | | | + APRICOTS |Not suitable|Leave a few |For jam use | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | stones in |just enough | sugar to 1 + | making. |for flavor. | water to | cupful of + | Excellent | | keep from | apricots for + | for jam. | | burning | jam + | | | | + BLACKBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | | quarts of | cupful of + | | | berries | juice + | | | | + BLUEBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + |making; make| | quarts of | cupful of + | a sweet | | berries | juice + | jelly | | | + | | | | + CRANBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as berries | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CHERRIES |Pectin must | Pit the |For jam, use| ¾ cupful of + |be added for|cherries for|just enough | sugar to 1 + |jelly making| jam | water to | cupful of + | | | keep from | cherries for + | | | burning | jam + | | | | + CRAB APPLES | Excellent | Same as |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | apples | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as apples | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, RED| Excellent | Do not |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |remove stems| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | for jelly | quarts of | cupful of + | | | currants | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, | Better for |Remove stems|Enough water| ¾ cupful of + BLACK | jam | |to keep from| sugar to 1 + | | | sticking | cupful of + | | | | currants + | | | | + GRAPES, | Excellent |Wash, do not|1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + UNRIPE | for jelly | stem; use | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | stems | quarts of | cupful of + | | | grapes | juice + | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES | Excellent | "Head and |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |tail," using| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | scissors | quarts of | cupful of + | | |gooseberries| juice + | | | | + PEACHES |Pectin must | Peaches, |Just enough | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| apples and | water to | sugar to 1 + |jelly making|raisins make| keep from | cupful of + | |a delicious | burning | juice + | | conserve | | + | | | | + PINEAPPLES |Pectin must | Prepare as | For jams, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| for table |enough water| sugar to 1 + |jelly making| use |to keep from| cupful of + | | | burning | juice + | | | | + PLUMS, |Suitable for| Mash fruit | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of + GREENGAGE |jelly making| and remove | water for | sugar to 1 + | |stems; cook |each peck of| cupful of + | |stones with | fruit | juice + | | fruit | | + | | | | + PLUMS, DAMSON|Suitable for| Wipe and | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of + |jelly making| pick over; | water for | sugar to 1 + | | prick | every peck | cupful of + | | several | of plums | juice + | | times with | | + | | large pin | | + | | | | + QUINCES | Excellent |Cut out the |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly |blossom end.| much water | sugar to 1 + | making, if |Mash and cut| as quinces | cupful of + | not too |in quarters | | juice + |ripe. If so,| | | + | add crab | | | + | apple | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES | Excellent | Wash them |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |thoroughly, | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | but do not | quarts of | cupful of + | | let them | berries | juice + | |soak in the | | + | | water | | + | | | | + RHUBARB |Pectin must |Wash and cut| For jam, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| into small |half as much| sugar to 1 + | jelly | pieces | water as | cupful of + | making. | | fruit. | juice + | Better for | | | + | jam. | | | + | | | | + STRAWBERRIES |Pectin must | Wash and | For jam, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| remove |just enough | sugar to 1 + | jelly | hulls. | water to | cupful of + | making. | | keep from | pulp. + | | | burning. | + CITRUS FRUITS| | | | + | | | | + ORANGES | Excellent | For orange | Cook in |Three-quarters + | for jelly | marmalade | water to | their weight + | making and | weigh | cover. | in sugar. + | marmalade | oranges | | + | |slice cross-| | + | | wise with | | + | |sharp knife | | + | | as thin as | | + | | possible; | | + | |remove seed.| | + | | | | + LEMONS | Excellent | For | | 8 pounds of + | for jelly |marmalade 9 | | sugar + | making and |oranges and | | + | to supply |6 lemons are| | + | pectin to | a good | | + |other fruits|combination | | + | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT | Best for | Grapefruit | |Three-quarters + | marmalades | is sliced | | their weight + | | very thin, | | in sugar. + | | seed | | + | | removed. | | + WILD FRUITS | | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES, | All | Prepare as |Just enough | 1 cupful of + BLACKBERRIES,| excellent | other | water to | sugar to 1 + BARBERRIES, | for jelly | fruits. | keep from | cupful of + GRAPES, BEACH| making. | | burning. | juice. + PLUMS. | | | | + | | | | + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + +CHAPTER VII + +MEAT + + +Canned meat adds variety to the diet in the winter-time and makes a +pleasant change from the cured and smoked meats. You put meat into +jars in the raw state and extend the sterilizing period or you can +cook the meat partially or completely and then sterilize for a shorter +period of time. Of course a reliable method of canning meat must be +used, such as the cold-pack process, where the sterilizing is done in +the tin or jar in either boiling water or steam under pressure. We +usually recommend the partial cooking, roasting or boiling of the meat +before canning especially for beginners. If you are a beginner in the +business of cold-pack canning then by all means cook the meat before +putting it in cans. If you have canned peas, beans and corn +successfully for years then you are ready for all kinds of raw meat +canning. + +To save criticism of the cold-pack method of canning meat and to guard +against any danger from eating poorly prepared and improperly +sterilized meat we do not urge beginners to experiment with meat, +although the meat can be safely canned by any one whether new at the +canning game or a veteran in it if directions are carefully followed. +But it is the big "If" that we have to watch. + +Many farmers and farmerettes are canning meats of all kinds all over +the country and there is never a can lost. We need more meat canning +done at home and you can do it if you will practice cleanliness in all +your work and follow directions. + +The fear of getting botulinus bacteria from eating canned meat is just +a "bug-a-boo." It should be clearly understood that botulism is one of +the very rare maladies. The chances for getting it by eating canned +goods, say the experts, is rather less than the chances from dying of +lockjaw every time you scratch your finger. To regard every can as a +source of botulism is worse than regarding every dog as a source of +hydrophobia. Moreover, for the very timid, there is the comforting +certainty that the exceedingly slight danger is completely eliminated +by re-cooking the canned food for a short time before eating it. + +There are always a few cases of illness traceable to bad food, not +only to canned food but to spoiled meats, fish, bad milk, oysters and +a number of things. There are also cases of injury and death by street +accidents, but we do not for that reason stop using the streets. If +you put good meat into the can and do your canning right then you will +have good results. Never put into a can meat that is about ready to +spoil, thinking thereby to "save it." + +If you want to be absolutely sure, even if the jar of meat seems +perfectly fresh when it is opened, you can re-cook the meat, thus +insuring yourself against any possibility of botulinus poisoning. So +you see, there is nothing at all alarming about that frightful +sounding word "botulinus." Using fresh products, doing the canning +properly and reheating before serving eliminates all danger. + +For canning meat, tin cans are in most respects superior to glass, as +they eliminate all danger of breakage, preserve the meat just as well +as glass, and by excluding the light prevent any change of color. If +you use glass jars be sure to get the best brand of jar rubbers on the +market. This is very important. + +If, as I have said, you are a beginner--cook the meat first by frying, +roasting, broiling, baking or stewing--just as you would prepare it +for immediate use. The meat is usually seasoned according to taste and +is cooked until thoroughly heated through, before putting in the cans. +Do not cook until tender as that will be too long with the additional +sterilizing. If too tender it will fall apart and be unappetizing +although perfectly good. See that nothing is wasted in the canning. If +you are canning a young steer or a calf you would go about it as +follows: + +Select the meat that you would ordinarily want. Slice the meat wanted +for steak. What is not suited for either of these can be used for +stews, or be put through the meat grinder and made into sausage meat, +formed into little cakes, fried and canned. What meat is left clinging +to all bones will be utilized when the bones are boiled for soup +stock. The sinews, the head and the feet, after being cleaned may be +used for soup stock also. + +The liver should be soaked in water, the coarse veins cut out and the +liver skinned and prepared any way that is desired before canning it +or it may be made into liver sausage. The heart can be used for +goulash. The kidneys should be soaked in salt water, split open and +the little sack removed; then they can be either stewed or fried and +then canned. The sweetbreads may be prepared in various ways and then +canned. + +The brain is soaked in water to remove the blood, and the membrane +enclosing it is removed. It can be fried or prepared in any favorite +way and then canned. The ox tail is used for soup. The tongue is +soaked in water, scrubbed, cleaned, salted, boiled, skinned and packed +in cans with some soup stock added. + +If you do not care to use the head for soup stock and if it comes from +a young animal, split it open and soak in cold water. Use a brush and +scrub thoroughly. Remove the eyes and mucous membrane of the nostrils +and then boil it. After it is boiled, remove all meat and make a mock +turtle stew or ragout. Prepare the tripe as for table use and then +can. + +After the soup stock is made and the bones are cracked for a second +cooking, the bones need not be thrown away. You can dry them, run them +through a bone crusher and either feed them to the chickens or use +them for fertilizer. In this way not a particle of the dressed animal +is wasted. + +Here are a few ways to utilize the cuts that are really "left-overs." + + +GOULASH + + 2 Pounds of meat scraps which can consist of beef, veal or pork. + 2 Ounces of any fat. + 2 Onions chopped fine. + 1 Stalk celery, cut in small pieces. + 2 Carrots. + 2 Cups tomatoes either canned or fresh. + 1 Bay leaf. + 6 Whole cloves. + 6 Peppercorns. + 1 Blade mace or a little thyme or both. + A little flour. + 1 Tablespoonful chopped parsley. + Salt and paprika to taste. + +Cut the meat into one inch squares and roll in flour. Melt the fat in +the frying pan, add the vegetables (onions, celery, carrots) and brown +lightly: add the meat and brown. Stir with a spoon or fork to prevent +burning. When browned empty into a pan. + +Put the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, mace and thyme into a +cheesecloth bag and add to the meat, add tomatoes. Cover with soup +stock or water and simmer 45 minutes if it is going to be canned. If +for immediate use, 2 hours will be necessary to thoroughly cook it. + +Remove the spices, season with salt, paprika and the chopped parsley. +You can add Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce if desired. Use only +small quantities as these sauces are very strong in their distinctive +flavor. Put hot mixture into cans and sterilize. + +If the different spices are not at hand a good goulash can be made by +using the meat, fat, onions, tomatoes, flour, salt and pepper and +omitting the rest of the recipe. + + +LIVER SAUSAGE + +Beef, veal, or hog liver. Remove the membrane and cut away the large +blood vessels. Soak in water 1 to 2 hours to draw out blood. Boil +until done. When cooled put through a food chopper or grate finely. +Take half as much boiled fat pork as liver. Divide this fat into two +portions; chop one portion into one-quarter inch cubes; pass the other +portion through the food chopper; mix all together thoroughly; add +salt, ground cloves, pepper, and a little grated onion to taste. A +little thyme and marjoram may be added to suit taste. (For a liver +weighing 1½ pounds add ¾ pounds fat pork, 3 to 4 teaspoonfuls salt, ½ +teaspoonful cloves, ½ teaspoonful pepper, 1 small onion, ¼ teaspoonful +thyme, and pinch of marjoram.) This mixture is stuffed into large +casings. (If no casings are available, make casings of clean white +muslin.) Cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 +minutes. Pack into cans, fill in with the water in which the sausages +were boiled. Sterilize. + +This liver sausage may also be made from the raw liver and raw pork, +but in that case the sterilizing is for a longer period, as the +time-table indicates. This recipe is recommended by the United States +Department of Agriculture. + + +HEAD CHEESE + +Cut a hog's head into four pieces. Remove the brains, ears, skin, +snout and eyes. Cut off the fattest parts for lard. Put the lean and +bony parts to soak over night in cold water in order to extract the +blood and dirt. When the head is cleaned put it over the fire to boil, +using water enough to cover it. Boil until the meat separates readily +from the bones. Then remove it from the fire and pick out all the +bones. Drain off the liquor, saving a part of it for future use. Chop +the meat up finely with a chopping knife. Return it to the kettle and +pour on enough of the liquor to cover the meat. Let it boil slowly for +fifteen minutes to a half-hour. Season to taste with salt and pepper +just before removing it from the fire. Bay leaves, a little ground +cloves and allspice may be added and boiled a short time in the soup. +Pack while hot in cans to within ½ inch of top. Sterilize. This head +cheese is always served cold. + + +CORNED BEEF + +After beef has been properly corned for three weeks, remove the meat +from the brine. Soak for two hours in clear water, changing water +once. Place in a wire basket and boil slowly for half an hour. Remove +from the boiling water, plunge into cold water, and remove gristle, +bone and excessive fat. Cut into small pieces and pack closely into +cans. Add no salt and proceed as in other canning. + + +CANNED PORK + +After the animal has been killed, cool quickly and keep the pork cool +for at least 24 hours. Can only lean portions, using the fat to make +lard. Place meat in a wire basket or cheesecloth and boil 30 minutes, +or roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Cut into small sections and pack +closely into cans. Add salt and proceed with remainder of process. + +Other pieces of beef and pork: Hamburg steak, sausage, venison, +squirrel, raccoon, opossum, lamb, are canned as follows: + +After cleaning, season and fry, roast, stew, or bake in oven as though +preparing for serving directly on the table. Cook until meat is about +three fourths done. Pack while hot into sanitary tin cans or glass +jars. Pour over the meat the hot liquids, gravies, dressings, etc., or +hot water. Add salt and proceed as in any other cold-pack canning. + + +HOW TO CAN POULTRY AND GAME WITH THE BONES REMOVED + +Kill bird and draw immediately; wash carefully and cool; then cut into +convenient sections. Boil until the meat can be removed from the +bones; remove from the boiling liquid and take out all bones; pack +closely into glass jars or enameled cans; fill jars with the hot +liquid after it has been concentrated one half; add 1 level +teaspoonful salt to every quart of meat for seasoning; put rubbers and +top of jars in place but not tight. If using enameled cans completely +seal. Sterilize the length of time given in the time-table on page +108 of this book. After the sterilizing remove the jars; tighten the +covers if glass was used; invert to cool and test joints. Wrap with +paper to prevent bleaching. + + +FRIED SPRING CHICKEN + +After cleaning and preparing the chickens, season and fry as though +for serving directly on the table. Cook until the meat is about +three-fourths done. If a whole spring chicken, break the neck and both +legs and fold around body of chicken. Roll up tight, tie a string +around the chicken and drop this hot, partially fried product into +sanitary tin cans or glass jars. A quart tin can (No. 3) will hold two +to four small chickens. Pour liquid from the griddle or frying pan +into the can over the chicken. Proceed, as in any other canning, with +the sealing, sterilizing and removing of the jars. Chicken fries +canned in the late fall preserve the meat at the most delicious stage +and furthermore we avoid the expense of feeding the chickens +throughout the winter. + + +HOW TO CAN COCKERELS + +When cockerels reach the point in their growth where it is no longer +profitable to feed them, and when they are wanted for home use during +the winter months they should be canned. This method of handling the +cockerel not only saves money by cutting down the feed bill, but it +places in the pantry or cellar the means of a delicious chicken dinner +at a time of the year when the price of poultry is high. + +The bird should not be fed for at least twenty-four hours before +killing. It should be killed by the approved method and picked dry. +When the feathers have been removed and the pin feathers drawn the +bird should be cooled rapidly. This rapid cooling after killing is +essential to a good flavor in canned meat. As soon as the bird has +been properly cooled it should be singed and washed carefully with a +brush. + + +CUTTING UP AND DRAWING CHICKENS + +Mr. George Farrell, a most expert canner, tells us how to go about +this job of canning chicken. + +In preparing the bird for canning, care should be taken in drawing it +so that the contents of the digestive tract do not come in contact +with the meat. + +1. Remove the tops of the wings, cutting at the first joint. + +2. Remove the wings. + +3. Remove the foot, cutting at the knee joint. + +4. Remove the leg, cutting at the hip or saddle joint. + +5. Cut the removed portion of the leg into two parts at the joint. + +6. Place the bird so the back of the head is toward the operator, cut +through the neck bone with a sharp knife but do not cut the windpipe +or gullet. + +7. With the index finger separate the gullet and windpipe from the +skin of the neck. + +8. Cut through the skin of the neck. + +9. With a pointed knife cut through the skin from the upper part of +the neck, thus separated, to the wing. + +10. Leave the head attached to the gullet and windpipe and loosen +these from the neck down as far as the crop. + +11. With a sharp pointed knife cut around the shoulder blade, pull it +out of position and break it. + +12. Find the white spots on the ribs and cut through the ribs on these +white spots. + +13. Cut back to the vent; cut around it, and loosen. + +14. Begin at the crop and remove the digestive tract from the bird, +pulling it back toward the vent. + +15. Remove the lungs and kidneys with the point of a knife. + +16. Cut off the neck close to the body. + +17. Cut through the backbone at the joint or just above the diaphragm. + +18. Remove the oil sack. + +19. Separate the breast from the backbone by cutting through on the +white spots. + +20. Cut the fillet from each side of the breastbone. + +21. Cut in sharp at the point of the breastbone, turning the knife and +cutting away the wishbone with the meat. Bend in the bones of the +breastbone. + + +PACKING CHICKEN + +Use a one quart jar. Caution: Do not pack the giblets with the meat. + +1. Have the jar hot. + +2. Pack the saddle with a thigh inside. + +3. Pack the breastbone with a thigh inside. + +4. Pack the backbone and ribs with a leg inside. + +5. Pack the legs large end downward, alongside the breastbone. + +6. Pack the wings. + +7. Pack the wishbone. + +8. Pack the fillets. + +9. Pack the neck-bone. + +10. Pour on boiling water to within one inch of the top; add a level +teaspoonful of salt; place the rubber and cap in position, partially +seal, and sterilize for the length of time given below for the +particular type of outfit used: + + Water bath, home made or commercial (pint or quart jars) 1 hour + Water seal, 214° 3 hours + 5 pounds steam-pressure 2 hours + 10 to 15 pounds steam-pressure 1 hour + +Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. Wrap +jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + +PIGEONS + +_Young_ pigeons. Dress pigeons, wash well, and roast for 30 minutes +basting frequently. Some pieces of fat bacon put over the breasts will +prevent them getting too dry. + +_Old_ pigeons. Dress, wash, and fry pigeons. + +Brown some onions in the fat with the pigeons, using a pound of onions +to a dozen birds. Cover with hot water after pigeons and onions are a +golden brown; simmer until the meat is tender and can be removed from +the bones. Add from time to time boiling water, if necessary, in order +to keep the birds covered. When tender, take meat from bones. Return +the meat to the liquor, salt to taste and pack while boiling into cans +or jars, fill with liquor to within one-half inch of top. + +All small game birds may be canned like pigeons. Blackbirds may be +treated like pigeons. They make an excellent stew. + + +PLAIN CANNING OF TENDER COTTON-TAILS OR TWICE-SKINNED JACK-RABBITS + +1. Blanch in boiling water until the meat is white. + +2. Cold dip. + +3. Pack tightly in sterilized jars. + +4. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt to quart. + +5. Adjust rubber and lid. + +6. Sterilize in hot water bath for three hours. + +7. Remove from bath and complete the seal. + +Rabbit meat thus canned, may be served in various appetizing ways. + + +RABBIT SAUSAGE + +For rabbit sausage and mince-meat only the backs and legs of the +carcass are used, discarding the sinews. + +Grind together equal parts of rabbit and fat pork (or at least ¼ fat +pork). The pork may be salt pork if all salt is omitted from the +mixture. + +To every ten pounds of the above add 6 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 +teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sage. Mix thoroughly. +Shape in flat cakes and fry till nicely browned. Pack tightly in jars, +pour over the fat in which the sausage was fried, and sterilize. + + +RABBIT MINCE-MEAT + +Rabbit mince-meat is used a great deal on the plains and large +quantities of it are canned. The mince-meat may be made by simply +substituting the rabbit meat for beef in your favorite recipe. The +following is an inexpensive recipe: + +1 Cup of rabbit meat which has been parboiled in salted water and +drained, then chopped finely. + +1 Cup chopped apple. + +½ Cup finely chopped suet. + +½ Cup seeded raisins. + +½ Cup currants. + +1 Cup molasses or syrup. + +2 Tablespoonfuls sugar. + +1 Tablespoon cider, lemon juice, fruit juice or vinegar. + +¼ Cup chopped watermelon pickles or green tomato pickles. + +1 Teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg. + +1 Teaspoon of salt. + +½ Teaspoon cloves, mace or other spice. + +Mix together all ingredients except the meat, add the meat broth and +simmer for about 1 hour. Add the meat. Pour into jars, and sterilize. +Remove and seal. + + +STEPS IN CANNING MEAT AND GAME + +For all meat, poultry or game canning the following general +instructions should be kept in mind. + +1. Sterilize the jars, caps and rubbers. + +2. Grade the meat for size. + +3. Cut up into convenient portions for cooking or canning. + +4. Sauté, fry or bake, broil or stew as desired. This step can be +omitted if you are an experienced canner. + +5. Pack in sterilized, hot jars or tin cans. + +6. Add 1 level teaspoonful salt per quart of meat for seasoning if not +already seasoned. + +7. If glass jars put on rubber and seal, not too tight. Seal tin cans. + +8. Process in boiling water or steam under pressure. + +9. Remove, completely seal the jar. + +10. Invert to cool and test the joint. + +11. Label and store. + + +If you can in tin use the enamel or lacquered cans. A slight amount of +water in the bottom of the jars of prepared meat will insure quicker +sterilization of the air remaining in the jar. Where meat has been +stewed the liquor can be poured into the jar for filling. If you use a +steam-pressure cooker outfit of course the time of cooking will be +much shorter than if you use a wash-boiler or some other homemade +outfit. If you cook in boiling water we call that the water-bath +method. + +The following data will be of interest to those who contemplate +canning meat. + +Hog on foot--weight 500. + +Liver, heart and a part of the ribs were eaten at the time of +butchering, therefore, not canned. The remainder of the ribs canned +six No. 3 cans: + +Ham 18, No. 3 cans + +Shoulder 18, No. 3 cans + +Roast 18, No. 3 cans + +Sausage 26, No. 3 cans + +Hash 4, No. 3 cans + +Gravy 5, No. 3 cans + +(which is also called stock) + +The sausage weighed 52 lbs. before it was canned, making 2 lbs. to the +can. + +There were 200 lbs. of fat for lard. After it was rendered there were +176 lbs. of lard and 20 lbs. of cracklings. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING MEAT, POULTRY AND +GAME + + [A] IF USING HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212°F + [B] IF USING WATER-SEAL OUTFIT AT 214°F + [C] IF USING STEAM PRESSURE 5 POUNDS + [D] IF USING PRESSURE COOKER 15 POUNDS + + TIME TO STERILIZE + PRODUCTS | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + PARTIALLY COOKED MEAT OF ALL KINDS + + + Roast beef | | | | + Corned beef | | | | + Sweetbreads | | | | + Tongue | | | | + Brains | | | | + Headcheese | | | | + Spareribs | 1½ hrs. | 1 hr. | 40 min. | 30 min. + Kidneys | | | | + Sausages and | | | | + other meats | | | | + Rabbits | | | | + Pigeon | | | | + Chicken | | | | + + UNCOOKED OR RAW MEAT + + Beef | | | | + Pork | 3 hrs. | 3 hrs. | 2 hrs. | 1 hr. + Veal and all | | | | + other meats | | | | + Poultry and game | | | | + + All meat stocks | | | | + with or without | 1½ hrs. | 75 min. | 1 hr. | 40 min. + vegetables and | | | | + cereals | | | | + +NOTE.--This time-table is for No. 2 and No. 3 tin cans or pint and +quart glass jars. If larger cans or jars are used more time must be +allowed for the sterilizing. If canning in tin, scratch on the can at +the time of sealing the initial of the contents. For instance--S.R. +means spareribs; G. means goulash; R.B. means roast beef. You can make +out your list and mark accordingly. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +FISH + + +People in some sections of the country are interested in canning +mountain trout and others live where there is an abundant supply of +either fresh-water fish or salt-water fish. Heretofore we have been +wasteful and lax about the fish supply. But as we have learned to can +vegetables and meats so we are going to learn to can fish. Fish is +really canned the same in every step after preparation as peas and +corn are canned. + +In order to have a good product, fish must be fresh when canned. No +time should be lost in handling the fish after being caught. +Putrefaction starts rapidly, and the fish must be handled promptly. +The sooner it is canned after being taken from lake, stream or ocean, +the better. Never attempt to can any fish that is stale. + + +PREPARATION OF FISH FOR CANNING + +As soon as fish are caught it is advisable to kill them with a knife +and allow the blood to run out. Scale fish. This is easily done if the +fish is dipped in boiling water. For canning, most varieties of fish +need not be skinned. If the fish is very large and coarse, the large +back fin may be cut out and the backbone removed, but with most +varieties this is unnecessary. Cut off the head and tail, being +careful to leave no more meat than necessary on the parts removed. +Remove the entrails and the dark membrane that in some fish (e.g., +mullets) covers the abdominal cavity. Thoroughly clean the inside. The +head may be cleaned and used for fish chowder. + +If you wish to be sure that all blood is drawn out before canning, +place the fish in a brine made of one ounce of salt to one quart of +water. Allow the fish to soak from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to +the thickness of the fish. Never use this brine but once. If the meat +of the fish is very soft or loose, it may be hardened by soaking in a +brine (strong enough to float an Irish potato) for from 15 minutes to +an hour, depending on the thickness of the pieces and the softness of +the flesh. + + +CANNING THE FISH + +1. Remove the fish from the brine where it has been placed in order to +draw out all the blood and to harden the texture of the fish. + +2. Drain well. + +3. Cut into can lengths. + +4. Place fish in a piece of cheesecloth or in a wire basket and blanch +in _boiling water_ from three to five minutes. Three minutes for the +soft flesh fish, such as suckers, crappies, whitefish. Fish with a +firmer flesh, as pike, muskalonge and sunfish require 5 minutes +blanching. The blanching removes the strong fish flavor and cleans the +outside of the fish. + +5. Cold-dip the fish by plunging into cold water immediately. This +makes the flesh firm. + +6. Pack in hot jars or cans to within ½ inch from top. Add 1 +teaspoonful salt per quart. Put on a good rubber and partially seal +the jar, completely seal tin cans. + +7. Place jars or cans in canner and process in _boiling_ water for +three hours. Three hours sterilization will insure the keeping of all +varieties of fish, providing fresh products are used and the blanching +and other work is carefully done. If canning with a steam-pressure +canner or a pressure cooker sterilize for one hour and a half under 10 +to 15 lbs. pressure. + +8. At the end of the sterilizing period cool the jars quickly after +sealing completely. The tin cans may be cooled by immersing them in +cold water. + +9. Store for future use. + + +SOFTENING OF BONES IN FISH + +This can be done satisfactorily under pressure. The bones of fish are +composed of large quantities of harmless lime, bound by a matrix of +collagen, which is insoluble under ordinary conditions. When subjected +to a high temperature under pressure this collagen is converted into +gelatin and dissolved, leaving the bones soft and friable and even +edible. Bony fish, such as herring and shad, which are too small to +use otherwise are greatly improved when subjected to steam under +pressure. + +The bones in herring are softened in 37 minutes at a temperature of +240 degrees; shad in 1 hour; flounder 1 hour. Other fish are fully +cooked and the bones softened in times approximately proportionate to +the size of the bones. + +The following table was made after many experiments and gives the time +required to soften the bones in many common species of fish. + +The term "softening" means the point in cooking when the small bones, +ribs, etc., are soft, but when the large vertebrae are not yet +sufficiently soft to be consumed along with the meat. In some of the +larger fishes where the large bones could scarcely be eaten, even if +they were softened, it would appear to be a waste of time and fuel to +carry them to a point of complete cooking, and in such cases it ought +to be sufficient to soften the small bones and sterilize the contents +of the can. For such a purpose, the "softening" rather than the "soft" +point, may be used. + +The time periods are measured from the point when the given pressure +and temperature are reached (at the top of the cooker) to the time +when the heat is shut off. The heating-up and cooling-off period of +time are therefore not included. The fish were salted, but no water +was added. + +Samples of fish canned during the course of these experiments were +kept six weeks at room temperature (about 68° F.) and were then +incubated at 98° F. for 48 hrs. All were sterile. + +TIME REQUIRED TO SOFTEN THE BONES OF +VARIOUS SPECIES OF FISH IN QUART JARS +OR NO. 3 TIN CANS, 10 LBS. PRESSURE, +240° F. + + |WEIGHT |SOFTENING|SOFT + |(LBS.) |(MINUTES)|(MINUTES) + | | | + BLACK BASS | | | + | | | + Large | 5-6 | 100 | 120 + Small | ¾ to 1 | 100 | 110 + | | | + BLUEFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 6-9 | 90 | 100 + Small | 1-2 | 80 | 90 + | | | + BUTTERFISH | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-½ | 60 | 80 + | | | + CATFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 1½-2 | 70 | 80 + Small | ¾ | 60 | 70 + | | | + CERO | | | + | | | + Average | 10-13 | 80 | 90 + | | | + COD | | | + | | | + Large | 6-16 | 80 | 90 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + FLOUNDER | | | + | | | + Large | 1-1¾ | 70 | 80 + Small | ½-1 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HADDOCK | | | + | | | + Large | 3-5 | 60 | 70 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HALIBUT | | | + | | | + Average | 50-90 | 70 | 80 + | | | + HICKORY SHAD | | | + | | | + Average |1½-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + KINGFISH | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1 | 60 | 70 + | | | + LEMON SOLE | | | + | | | + Large | 2½-3½ | 80 | 90 + Small | ¾-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL | | | + | | | + Average | ¾-1½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL, SPANISH | | | + | | | + Average | 1½-2½ | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, WHITE | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-¾ | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, YELLOW | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-¾ | 90 | 100 + | | | + POLLACK | | | + | | | + Average | 5-7½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + SALMON | | | + | | | + Average | 13-19 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SEA BASS | | | + | | | + Average | 1-1½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + SQUETEAGUE | | | + | | | + Large | 2½-4 | 80 | 90 + Small | ¾-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SMELTS | | | + | | | + Large, per lb. | 5-7 | 60 | 70 + Small, per lb. | 15-20 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SNAPPER, RED | | | + | | | + Large | 10-15 | 110 | 120 + Small | 5-6 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SUCKER | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1½ | 80 | 90 + | | | + TILEFISH | | | + | | | + Average | 6-12 | 90 | 100 + | | | + WHITING | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1 | 50 | 60 + + +FRIED FISH + +1. Clean the fish and remove entrails. Split along the back and remove +backbone. + +2. Place in brine strong enough to float an Irish potato. Allow fish +to remain in this brine from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to the +thickness of the flesh. This draws out the blood and hardens the meat. + +3. Draw, wipe dry. + +4. Cut in pieces that can go through jar or can openings. + +5. Roll in cornmeal or other flour, dip into beaten egg and roll in +flour again. + +6. Then put into frying basket and fry in deep fat until nicely +browned, or it can be sautéd in bacon or other fat until well browned. + +7. Drain well by placing pieces on coarse paper to absorb excessive +fat. + +8. Pack into hot jars or enameled tin cans. + +9. Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Add no liquid. + +10. Partially seal glass jars. Completely seal tin cans. + +11. Process 3 hours in hot water bath outfit. Process 1½ hours in +steam pressure (10 to 15 lbs. pressure). + +12. Remove from canner. Seal glass jars. Cool quickly as possible. + + +BAKED FISH + +Prepare and bake fish same as for table use until half done. Pack in +hot jars, add salt and sterilize three hours in hot-water-bath outfit +or 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker, 10 to 15 lbs. +pressure. + + +ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MISCELLANEOUS FISH + +Rub the fish inside and out with a mixture made as follows: to 50 +pounds fish, mix 2½ pounds salt, 2½ pounds brown sugar and 2½ ounces +saltpeter. Let the fish stand in a cool place for 48 to 60 hours with +the mixture on, then wash and drain. Fill into glass jars or enamel +lined tin cans and add the following sauce until cans are nearly +filled: ¼ pound whole black pepper, 1½ pounds salt, 1 pound of onions +chopped fine, ½ ounce bay leaves, ¼ pound whole cloves, 2 quarts cider +vinegar and 25 quarts of water. Soak the pepper, cloves and bay leaves +for 48 hours in the vinegar. Put the water, salt and onions in a +kettle. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes, then add the vinegar and +spices. Let boil for one minute. Strain and it is ready for use. + +Sterilize for 3 hours in hot-water-bath outfit. + +Sterilize for 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker (10 to 15 +lbs. pressure). + + +CANNED FISH IN OIL + +Rub fish with salt, brown sugar and saltpeter as above directed. Wash +and dry thoroughly in the sun. Spread on wire screens and dip in oil +heated to a temperature of 300 degrees. Use a strap handle plunge +thermometer to determine heat of oil. Cottonseed oil may be used for +this purpose, although olive oil is best. As soon as the fish are +cool enough to handle, pack tightly in cans, filling up with the hot +oil. + +Sterilize 3 hours in hot-water-bath-outfit; 1½ hours in steam pressure +or pressure cooker (10 to 15 lbs.). + + +CANNED FISH IN TOMATO SAUCE + +Handle same as specified under "Another Formula for Miscellaneous +Fish," except pour in the following sauce instead of pepper, cloves, +onions, etc.: Ten gallons of tomato pulp (mashed tomatoes and juice +with cores, seeds and skins removed); 1 gallon cider vinegar, 1 pint +Worcestershire sauce; 2½ pounds red sweet peppers; 2½ pounds sugar, 2 +cups salt, 2 pounds onions (chopped fine); 1 pound West India peppers +and 1 ounce Saigon cinnamon. The fish are processed same as "Fish in +Oil." Enamel lined cans or glass jars must be used. + + +FISH CHOWDER + +The cleaned heads of any fish, the backbones cut out of large fish +with what meat adheres to them and all other fish scraps may be used +for fish chowder. Put all these parts in cold water (to cover) and +cook until all the meat can be easily removed from the bones. Pick all +the meat from the bones, strain the fish liquor and return it with the +picked fish meat to the kettle. Add the following ingredients: To +every two pounds of fish picked from bones and the liquor in which +fish was cooked add 6 onions, diced or sliced thin; 6 potatoes, diced +or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls fat; 1 teaspoonful paprika; 2 +teaspoonfuls salt or salt to taste. + +Cook vegetables, fat and seasonings until vegetables are half done. +Pack hot in cans and sterilize same as all other fish. When the +chowder is opened, heat and add milk according to taste. + + +FISH ROE + +For canning be sure to use roe of freshly caught fish and only such +roe as is known to be good to eat. The roe of some fishes, such as the +garfish, is not eaten. + +Clean the roe by removing the shreds and strings adhering to it and +wash well in cold water, being careful not to break the roe. Soak for +2 hours in a brine made of 6 quarts of water and 6 ounces of salt. +Drain and pack in hot glass jars or enameled tin cans. Can for the +same length of time as other fish. + + +OYSTERS + +Be sure all oysters that are to be canned are absolutely fresh, have +not "soured" and contain no spoiled oysters. Oysters are opened by +hand. All oysters should be rejected that have partly open shells, as +this is a sign that the oyster is dead and consequently not fit to +eat. + +Rinse the oysters to prevent any pieces of shell or grit from getting +into the cans. Blanch 5 minutes. Cold-dip. If the canned oysters are +to be sold it is required by law to mark on each can the net weight of +solids or meat exclusive of liquids. + +There have been a number of standard grades of oysters recognized on +the Baltimore market. They are given as follows: "Standard Oysters" +(four kinds). + +No. 1 cans, containing respectively 1½, 3, 4 and 5 ounces of meat, +after being processed in the cans. + +No. 2 cans, containing respectively 3, 6, 8 and 10 ounces of meat. + +"Select" and "Extra Select" Oysters contain respectively 6 ounces and +12 ounces for No. 1 and No. 2 cans. The above are the net weights of +meats only that have been drained over a strainer with a wire bottom +of ½ inch mesh. These are the only grades that have so far been +recognized by the trade. An even balance scale, with one platform for +graduated weights and another for articles to be weighed, is used to +weigh oysters or clams. It is suggested that those who are going to +can clams or oysters find out from their prospective customers just +what requirements are as to weights and then make their pack meet the +occasion. Under no circumstances is it advisable to make any +misstatements or misbrand in any respect. + +After oysters have been packed in the can, fill with boiling brine +made of 5 quarts of water to ¼ lb. salt to within ½ inch from top of +can. Sterilize as other fish. + + +CLAMS + +If clams are received in a muddy condition, it is advisable, though +not necessary to wash them before opening. After opening, discard +broken or discolored clams. Do not can any clams unless absolutely +fresh. Blanch. Cold-dip. Weigh out the amount of solid meat, after +draining, that is to go into each can. Weigh and label just as oysters +are weighed and labeled. + +Fill can to within ½ inch from the top with boiling brine made of 5 +gallons of water and 1 pound of salt. Sterilize. + + +CLAM BROTH AND CHOWDER + +Place the clams, after being opened, in a kettle with enough cold +water to cover. Add a few stalks of celery. Boil for 10 minutes. +Season with salt, and pepper to taste and add 1 tablespoon butter to +every 50 or 60 large clams. Can. Clam chowder can be made according to +any recipe and then canned. + + +SHRIMPS + +Shrimps when first caught are a grayish white color. They are very +delicate and spoil quickly if allowed to stand for any length of time +in a warm place. There are two general methods of canning shrimp--the +"dry pack" and "wet pack." Nearly all the trade now calls for "wet +pack" because the other always has a rather offensive odor and the +meat is never so fresh and sweet of flavor as the "wet pack." Canned +shrimp is very pleasing to the taste and is preferred by many to +lobster for salads and stews. + +Wet Pack. Medium sizes are preferable as very large shrimps are apt +to be too tough and too dry. Put the shrimps into a wire scalding +basket and lower into a boiling hot salt water solution made by mixing +one pound of salt to each gallon of water. Allow the shrimps to remain +in this bath for about five minutes, then remove and drain thoroughly. + +Peel and remove viscera (entrails). The boiling and the salt will +harden the meat and make the peeling comparatively easy. Pack into +enameled tin cans or glass jars. Nos. 1 and 1½ cans are used almost +exclusively. These sizes should contain 4½ oz and 9 ounces of meat +respectively. It is unsafe to put in more meat than above directed, +for it might cake and become solid when processed. + +Add a very mild brine to within ½ inch from top of can. For the brine +use 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart of boiling water. Sterilize. + +Dry Pack. Handle same as above, except do not pour into the cans any +brine. The fish is packed in the cans and processed as follows without +the addition of any liquor. + +Drying of Shrimps. After shrimps are boiled and peeled they may be +dried. Spread on a drier of any kind and dry at a temperature of from +110°F. to 150°F. When thoroughly dry pack in dry clean glass jars or +in parchment-paper lined boxes. + + +SALMON + +Scale fish, clean and wipe dry. Do not wash. If the fish are large cut +in lengths to fill the cans and in sizes to pass through can openings +easily. Salmon is usually packed in No. 1 cans or in flat cans. Fill +cans with fish after it has been blanched 5 minutes and cold dipped. +Sterilize as other fish. + +Many salmon packers lacquer the outside of their cans to prevent +rusting. This is a very advisable point. The test for unsound salmon +is the nose. If the contents issue an offensive odor, it is unsound. +Freezing does not hurt canned salmon. + + +AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES + +The fish taught and used for packing domestic sardines belong to the +herring family and are said to be of the same species as the sardines +of France, Portugal and Spain. There are two methods generally used in +canning sardines. First, when the fish are put in a sauce such as +mustard dressing or tomato sauce, and secondly where they are packed +in oil. + + +CANNING SARDINES IN SAUCE + +The heads are cut off, the scales taken off and the fish cleaned. +Blanch 5 minutes; cold dip; drain and pack into the cans dry. Cover +with sauce, either mustard or tomato. + + +SARDINES IN OIL + +The fish are prepared in the same manner as above described but +instead of blanching them, they are put in wire baskets and immersed +in boiling peanut or cottonseed oil until tender. Olive oil might be +used, but is rather expensive. When cooked, they are drained, packed +into cans in order, and the cans filled with olive oil. It is often +advisable to salt the fish while fresh and before cooking as it +improves the flavor. + + +CRAB MEAT + +Put 5 gallons of water in a large kettle. Add ¼ lb. of baking soda to +it. When boiling vigorously throw the live crabs in it and boil +quickly for 20 minutes. Remove crabs and wash them in cold water. Pick +out all meat. Wash the meat in a brine made of 1 ounce of salt +dissolved in three quarts of water. Drain and pack in enameled No. 1 +flat cans. Sterilize. As soon as the time of sterilizing is up, plunge +the cans immediately into cold water, otherwise crab meat discolors. +For this reason, glass jars are not so well adapted to crab meat +canning as tin cans. + + +FLAKED CODFISH + +The fish are first cleaned and the entrails removed, then the fins are +cut off. The fish are then soaked for about two hours in a salt brine +to remove the blood. This brine is made with about 10 lbs. of salt to +8 gallons of water. The brine is then rinsed off and the fish are +cooked, either boiled or cooked by steam. When codfish are thoroughly +cooked, the meat will drop off of the bone in pieces, and it is very +white in color and crisp in texture. These pieces are then broken in +suitable sizes and are ready to place in the cans. The cans are filled +as full as possible, because after processing the fish will shrink +some. + + +CRAWFISH + +The best way to can crawfish is to put it up in a bouillon as follows: +Water, 2 gallons; vinegar, 1 quart; cloves, 10; carrots in slices, 6; +onions in slices, 6; cloves of garlic, 3. + +To the above should be added a good quantity of pepper to suit the +taste, a little salt and bunch of parsley and a little thyme. Boil +slowly for about an hour. Throw in the crawfish after the intestines +have been extracted; to do this take the live crawfish in your hand +and tear off the wing which is in the middle of the tail; it will pull +out at the same time a little black intestine which is very bitter. +Boil one or two minutes, never longer, put in cans and process. + +TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING FISH + + + + + [A] SCALD OR BLANCH + [B] HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT 212°F + [C] CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT 212°F + [D] WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F + [E] STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS + [F] PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PRODUCT | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] + ------------------------------------------------------------------ + Fish of all kinds |3 to 5| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|2½ hrs.|2 hrs. |1½ hrs. + | min. | | | | | + | | | | | | + Shell fish of all |3 min.| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|2½ hrs.| 2 hrs.|1½ hrs. + kinds | | | | | | + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + +If the proper sanitary requirements are provided and instructions of +the cold-pack method of canning are followed, it is entirely safe and +practical to use tin cans for all kinds of fruits, vegetables and +other food products. Food poisoning--commonly called ptomaine +poisoning--and the effects ascribed to "salts of tin" result from +improper handling and improper preparation of the product before +packing, or from allowing the product to stand in the tin after it has +been opened. The raw food products used for canning in tin must be in +sound condition, just as they must be if put into glass containers. + +It is true that canned foods may be rendered unfit for use by improper +handling of the product before packing and that decomposition may +occur after canning, owing to insufficient processing, improper +sealing or the use of leaky containers. This condition, however, is no +more likely to be encountered in foods put up in tin than in products +canned in other types of containers. You run no more danger of poison +from your own tin-canned products than from tin-canned food bought at +the store. Most canned foods if in a spoiled condition readily show +this condition by the swelling of the can or by odor or taste. Canned +foods showing such evidences of decomposition should not be used. + +Certain foods which are high in protein, such as meats, peas, beans +and fish products, may undergo decomposition without making this +condition obvious to the senses. It is essential, therefore, that the +greatest care be taken to subject such products to proper preparation +and ample processing. It should be remembered that canned foods, after +opening the containers, should be treated as perishable products and +should be handled with the same precautions that are applied when +fresh products are being used. + + +ADVANTAGES OF CANS + +Many housewives ask, "Why can in tin when we have always used glass +jars?" There are many advantages in canning in tin which we can well +consider. There is no breakage as in glass; you can handle the tin +cans as carelessly as you choose and you will not hear a snap or crack +indicating a lost jar. Furthermore, tin cans are easier to handle not +only in canning but in storing. + +The expense each year of new tin covers or new tin cans is no more +than the purchase of new rubbers and the replacement of broken glass +jars. Furthermore, one big advantage of tin over glass is that tin +cans can be cooled quickly by plunging them into cold water +immediately upon removal from the canner, and thus the cooking is +stopped at the proper moment. The product is consequently better in +form and flavor than when the cooking is prolonged, as it must be in +glass jars. Many women like the large openings of cans because they +can make better packs than when using narrow-necked jars. + +If you do not care to bother with the soldering you can purchase a +safe and simple device that will do the work for you. This device is +called a tin-can sealer. With a sealer no soldering is necessary. +Even an inexperienced person, by following directions carefully, can +seal a can as well as an experienced one. The sealed cans look exactly +like those purchased at the store. Two or three cans a minute can be +sealed with this device. + +This is the way to operate a can sealer: Prepare the fruits and +vegetables as for any canning, following directions formerly given for +cold-pack canning. + +After the fruits or vegetables have been properly prepared, blanched +and cold-dipped if necessary, place them in sanitary, solderless cans. +Put water or sirup on, according to directions. Put the top on the can +and place the can in the sealer. + +Raise the can into the chunk by swinging the raising lever at the +bottom of the machine against the frame. Turn the crank, rapidly at +first, with the right hand, and at the same time push the seaming-roll +lever very slowly with the left hand until it will go no farther. This +is one of the most important steps in the use of the machine. Continue +to give the crank several turns after the seaming-roll lever has gone +as far as it will go. This completes the first operation or seam. + +Continue turning the crank with the right hand, and with the left hand +pull the seaming-roll lever until it will go no farther in this +direction. After this has been done give the crank several more turns, +and the second and final operation is complete. Bring the seaming-roll +lever back to the middle position and remove the can. The can is then +ready for sterilization. + +Before sealing a new lot of cans or after changing for a different +size of can, one or two of the cans about to be used should be tested +for leaks. If this is done and the cans stand the test it will be +unnecessary to test the remaining cans of that same lot. The following +is a simple and safe test: + +Put one tablespoon of water into an empty can and seal. Have on hand a +vessel containing enough boiling water to cover the can. Set aside +and, as soon as bubbles disappear from the surface, immerse the can in +the hot water. This heats the water in the can and creates a pressure +within the can. Keep the can under the surface for two minutes, and if +by that time no bubbles rise from the can the can has been sealed +air-tight. + + +ADJUSTING THE SEAMING ROLLS + +If bubbles rise from the can the seam is not sufficiently tight. If +this seam is not sufficiently tight the _second_ seaming roll needs +adjusting, provided the directions regarding seaming rolls given below +have been observed. To set the rolls proceed as follows: Loosen the +nut on the bottom of the seaming-roll pin. With a screw driver turn +the seaming-roll pin counter clockwise--that is, from right to left. +Turn very slightly and, while holding the seaming-roll pin with the +screw driver in the left hand, tighten nut with the right hand, and +test as before. + +Occasionally it is well to compare the seam after the first operation +with the sample can which is sent with the machine. + +If seaming rolls cut into the can they are set too close, and the +seaming-roll pin should be adjusted in the opposite direction from +above. + +After adjusting, always test cans as suggested above before canning. +The seaming rolls are set before the machine leaves the factory and +should not require adjusting for some time, but I have found that +slight variations in cans may make adjusting necessary. + +If for any reason the second seaming roll is brought into contact with +the can before the first operation is complete it may injure the can +seriously, thus preventing an air-tight seam. + +If the first seaming roll is forced in too rapidly it may ruin the +seam. Push the seaming-roll lever gently and steadily, while turning +the crank with the right hand. This rolls the seam gradually. There is +no danger from bringing in the second seaming roll too quickly if the +first seaming roll has completed its work. + +There are thus, as you see, two kinds of tin cans used in home +canning: The sanitary or rim-seal can, which is used with a sealer, +and the cap-and-hole can. The latter consists of a can, and a cover +which carries a rim of solder and is fastened on the can by the +application of heat. + +The sanitary can has a cover a trifle larger than the diameter of the +can, thus leaving the full diameter of the can open for filling. That +part of the cover that comes into contact with the can is coated with +a compound or fitted with a paper gasket or ring which makes a perfect +seal when the cover is crimped on the can. Some mechanical device is +necessary for sealing this can, and this is the sealer. + +Cans may be had with inside enamel or plain without any enamel. The +following fruits and vegetables should be canned in enamel-lined cans: +All berry fruits, cherries, plums, rhubarb, pumpkin, beets and squash. +All highly colored products should be canned in enamel-lined cans to +prevent the bleaching effect induced by their action upon the plain +tin. Some prefer to can fish and meat in the enamel-lined cans. Other +products not mentioned here may be canned in plain cans, since they +are less expensive than the enamel-lined cans. + +Covers are lined in two ways, with the paper gasket and the compound +gasket. The compound gasket is merely a preparation, scarcely visible, +applied to the under side of the cover and is not easily damaged by +handling. The paper gasket is a ring placed on the under side of the +cover and must be handled carefully. If the paper gasket becomes +broken the cover must be discarded. To sterilize covers having the +paper gasket, place them in the oven for a few minutes, but _do not +wet them_, before sealing cans. Do not remove or handle paper gaskets. + +When the cans are removed from the cooker the ends should be raised; +this is caused by the pressure within. If they are not raised at the +ends the cans should be carefully examined for defects. After the cans +are sterilized they should be cooled off in water. This will cause the +ends to collapse. If they do not collapse the reason is probably due +to overfilling. It must be remembered that peas, beans and corn swell +a certain amount after water is placed in the cans; therefore, in +canning these vegetables the cans should be filled only to within a +quarter of an inch of the top. If the pressure of the air from without +will not cause the end to collapse, it should be forced in by hand. + + +THE TINNING OUTFIT + +Tin-can sealers are made to handle the regular Number 2, or pint +cans, and the Number 3, or quart cans. The sizes are interchangeable, +so that in a few minutes' time a Number 2 machine may be changed into +a Number 3 machine with the necessary attachments. So it is economy to +buy a machine with these attachments, as you can then use either pints +or quarts as you desire. + +If you are selling to boarding houses and hotels you also will want +half-gallon and gallon cans. If you use these larger-size cans and +want the sealer you can get it for these sizes, but you must tell +exactly what you want when ordering. + +The prices which I give are 1919 prices and are of course not +stationary. A sealer that will seal the Number 2 sanitary tin cans +costs $14. A sealer for Number 3 cans will cost the same amount. But +the ideal arrangement is the combination machine which can be used for +both the pints, Number 2, and the quarts, Number 3. This type of +sealer costs $16.50. A special machine is used for sealing the Number +10 or gallon cans, and its price is $35. + +The price of the "winter can opener" is $17.00 for smaller size and +$19.50 for the larger one. + +Several standard sizes of tin cans are in common use for canning +purposes, as follows: + + DIAMETER OF + NUMBER SIZE OPENING + INCHES INCHES + 1 2-5/8 by 4 2-1/16 + 2 3-5/16 by 4-9/16 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 3 4-1/8 by 4-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 10 6/3/16 by 6-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + +The cans are put up in crates holding 100 or 500 cans. If you are +canning for the ordinary market use Number 2 cans for berries, corn, +peas and cherries; Number 3 cans for tomatoes, peaches, apples, pears +and sweet potatoes. + +In buying cans it is always necessary to state whether you desire +plain tin or lacquered--enameled--cans. In buying caps always ask for +the solder-hemmed caps and give the diameter of the can opening. For +whole fruits and vegetables, cans with two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch or +even larger openings are preferable. Since the size of the can opening +varies and it ordinarily will not be advisable to have more than one +capping iron, it is recommended that the larger +size--two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch--capping iron be purchased. + +The tin cans come in lots of 100 or 500 cans. It is possible to buy as +few as two dozen cans, but that never pays. It is cheaper to buy a +larger quantity. Number 2 plain sanitary cans in 500 lots cost $3.45 a +hundred; in 100 lots, $3.65 a hundred. Number 2 sanitary +cans--enameled--in 500 lots cost $3.80 a hundred; in 100 lots, $3.95 a +hundred. Number 3, plain, in 500 lots are $4.50 a hundred; Number 3, +plain, in 100 lots are $4.70 a hundred. Number 3, enameled cans, in +500 lots, are $4.95 a hundred; Number 3, enameled cans, in 100 lots, +are $5.10 a hundred. + +The gallons come twelve cans to a case. They are $1.40 a dozen if 100 +cases are bought. If less than 100 cases are ordered they are $1.50 a +dozen. + +The cans that you have to solder yourself run just about the same +price, Number 2 being $3.60 in 500 lots and $3.80 in 100 lots. Number +3 are $4.70 in 500 lots and $4.90 in 100 lots. The buyer must pay +express or freight charges on both sealers and tin cans. + + +PREPARING OLD CANS FOR REFILLING + + +Formerly, after using a tin can once we threw it away; but men with +brains, realizing this waste, have come to our rescue, and as a +consequence we can now use a can three times--that is, if we have a +sealer. The sealer that seals our cans will also open them for us, so +it becomes our winter can opener. With this can opener we can use our +tin cans three times, buying each year only new tops, which cost less +than good rubbers. + +Cutting and Reflanging Tin Cans. Cutting off the can the first time. +First lift the spring pin in the top piece, push the lever from you, +drop the spring pin between the stop of the first operation roll and +the cutting-roll stop. Place the can in the sealer, push the +can-raising lever against opposite side of frame. Turn the crank and +gently push seaming-roll handle from you until you come against +cutting-roll stop, and the top of your can is cut off. + +Reflanging. Remove standard can base and in its place put in the +reflanging base, lift the spring-pin and bring seaming-roll lever to +the original position. Drop the spring pin between the stops of the +first and second operation rollers, place the can in the sealer, open +end down, push raising lever round until the can engages with the +chuck, turn the crank and at the same time gradually push raising +lever round against the frame. The can is now ready for use again. + +Resealing. The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch shorter than +originally. Remove the reflanging base, put one of the narrow washers +on the top of the can-raising lever, then the standard can base, and +the sealer is now ready. Proceed as with the original can. + +Cutting the Can the Second Time. Proceed as at the first time, only +be sure to cut off the opposite end. The can may be cut open and +reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body. In cutting and +reflanging the second time, leave the three-sixteenth-inch washer +under the can base and reflanging base. + +Resealing the Second Time. Remove reflanging base and put the second +three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base and proceed as +directed under resealing. + + +THE SOLDERING OUTFIT + +The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a tipping +copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass or stoneware +cup in which to keep the soldering flux: sal ammoniac, a few scraps of +zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file. + +Soldering Flux. Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in crude +muriatic acid. It is used for cleaning the irons and for brushing the +tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for the melted lead +to adhere to the tin. + +To Make the Flux. Purchase at the drug store ten cents' worth of +crude muriatic acid. Place this in a porcelain, stone or glass jar. +Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will thoroughly dissolve. +The flux is always best when it has stood from twelve to sixteen hours +before using. Strain through a piece of cloth or muslin. Dilute with a +little water, about half and half. This will make the soldering flux. +When using keep the flux well mixed and free from dust and dirt. + +Tinning Capping Iron. Purchase five or ten cents worth of sal +ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife. Mix a +little solder with the sal ammoniac. Heat the capping iron hot enough +so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a liquid. Place +the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal ammoniac and +solder. Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering edge of the +iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the solder. All +particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, should be removed +from the iron before tinning. + +Tinning the Tipping Copper. The tipping copper is tinned in very +much the same way as the iron. Sometimes it is desirable to file the +tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to correct the point. +Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the mixture of sal +ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the melted lead and +is bright as silver. The copper should be filed nearly to a sharp +point. + +Capping a Tin Can. Use one tin can for experimenting. By capping and +tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and simply putting +another cap on the same can, you can use this one can until you become +proficient in capping. + +When capping the full packs arrange the cans in rows upon the table +while the capping and tipping irons are heating in the fire. Take a +handful of solder-hemmed caps and place them on all cans ready to be +capped. Place a finger on the vent hole, hold cap in place, and run +the brush containing a small amount of flux evenly round the +solder-hemmed cap with one stroke of the hand. Do this with all cans +ready to be capped. Then take the capping iron from the fire. Insert +in center the upright steel. Hold the capping iron above the cap until +the center rod touches the cap and holds it in place. Then bring it +down in contact with all four points of solder-hemmed cap and rotate +back and forth about three strokes. Do not bear down on capping iron. +A forward and back stroke of this kind, if properly applied, will +perfectly solder the cap in place. Remove capping iron and inspect the +joint. + +If any pin-holes are found recap or repair with copper. It may be +necessary to use a piece of wire lead or waste lead rim from a cap to +add more lead to the broken or pinhole places of a cap. + +Tipping a Tin Can. Take flux jar and brush. Dip brush lightly in +flux and strike the vent hole a side stroke, lightly, with brush +saturated with flux. + +Use the waste solder-hemmed cap rim or wire solder. Place point of +wire solder over vent hole. Place upon this the point of the hot, +bright, tipping copper. Press down with a rotary motion. Remove +quickly. A little practice will not only make this easy, but a smooth, +perfect joint and filling will be the result. The cans are now ready +for the canner. The handwork is all over, for the canner will do the +rest. + +Precautions. Do not fill tin cans too full. Leave a one-eighth to +one-quarter inch space at the top of the can and see that the product +does not touch the cover. If any of the product touches the cover the +application of the hot iron produces steam, which may blow out the +solder, making it impossible to seal the can. + + +RULES FOR STERILIZING + +Remember all fruits and vegetables are prepared for tin cans exactly +as they are for glass jars and the period of cooking or sterilizing is +the same. The following rules will help to avoid difficulties in the +operation of the various canning outfits: + +For hot-water-bath outfits, whether homemade or commercial. + +1. Support the cans off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and round the cans. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the cans by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the cans. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to jump over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. On removing the cans throw them into a sink with running cold water +or plunge them into a pail of cold water. + +5. If the cans are laid on their sides the false bottom is not +necessary. + +For steam-pressure and pressure-cooker canners the following +precautions should be observed: + +1. Lower the inside crate until it rests on the bottom of the +steam-pressure canners. In the case of the pressure cooker put the +rack in the bottom of the cooker. + +2. Have the water come to, but not above, the platform. + +3. Tin cans can be piled one above the other. + +4. When the canner has been filled fasten the opposite clamps +moderately tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Have the canner absolutely steam-tight. + +6. Allow the pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +7. Close the pet cock. + +8. After the gauge registers the correct amount of pressure, begin +counting the time. + +9. Maintain a uniform pressure throughout the process. + +10. When the process is completed allow the steam to escape gradually +through the pet cock. You can lift the pet cock slowly, using a pencil +or a knife. This can be done only with tin cans. If glass jars are +used the canner must be cooled before opening the pet cock. Blowing +the steam from the pet cock is likely to cause a loss of liquid from +the partly sealed glass jars. + +11. Throw the tin cans into cold water. + +12. If tin cans bulge at both ends after they have been completely +cooled, it indicates that they are spoiling and developing gas, due to +bacteria spores or chemical action. These may be saved if opened at +once and resealed or resoldered and processed again for ten minutes. + +The following table will help you in estimating how many cans of fruit +and vegetables you will obtain from a bushel of product: + + +NUMBER OF CANS A BUSHEL FILLS + + NO. 2 CANS NO. 3 CANS + Windfall apples 30 20 + Standard peaches 25 18 + Pears 45 30 + Plums 45 30 + Blackberries 50 30 + Windfall oranges, sliced 22 15 + Windfall oranges, whole 35 22 + Tomatoes 22 15 + Shelled Lima beans 50 30 + String beans 30 20 + Sweet corn 45 25 + Peas, shelled 16 10 + + + + +CHAPTER X + +INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + +In some parts of the United States, particularly in the South, such +vegetables as corn, beans, peas, squash, spinach, pumpkin, etc., are +canned by what is known as the fractional sterilization, or the +so-called Three Days Process. + +Southern canning experts have had trouble with certain vegetables, +such as those named, when they canned these vegetables in the wash +boiler by the cold-pack or one period method. They say that the +climatic conditions are so different in the South that what is +possible in the North is not possible in the South. + +The vegetables are prepared, blanched, cold-dipped and packed as in +the cold-pack method and the filled cans or jars are processed in the +wash boiler or other homemade outfit a given length of time three +successive days. + +After each day's processing the cans should be cooled quickly and set +aside, until the next day. + +The method is as follows: + +Process or sterilize glass jars for the required number of minutes on +the first day, remove from canner, push springs down tightly as you +remove the jar from the canner. + +On the second day raise the springs, place the jar in the canner, +process or boil for the same length of time as on the first day. +Remove from the canner and seal tightly. Set aside until the third +day, when the process should be repeated. + +For this canning a good spring-top jar is good, although the Mason jar +type of top will serve for one year; after one year of use it is +advisable to fit old Mason jars and similar types with new tops. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, do not disturb the +seal at the second and third processing unless the rubber has blown +out. + +This method is only necessary when depending upon boiling water or +condensed steam to do the work. + +A steam-pressure canner or pressure cooker is used in the South and +many other places to avoid bothering with vegetables three successive +days. + +The steam canner or pressure cooker soon pays for itself in time, +energy, and fuel saved as the vegetables may be canned at high +pressure in one processing. + +The following time-tables are those used in the South and will tell +you exactly how long to blanch and process all products. The +preparation of vegetables and fruits is the same as in the one-period +method, but the time of blanching and sterilizing differs as the +time-table indicates. + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + Tomatoes | BLANCH | LIQUOR | SIZE | PROCESS OR + | | | JAR | BOIL + ----------------------------------------------------------- + | 1 min. | No water |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Tomatoes | 1 min. | No water | Pint | 25 min. + | | | | + String beans | | | | + (very young |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |Quart |1 hr. 15 min. + and tender) | | | | + | | | | + Sweet potatoes| Cook ¾ | 2 |Quart | 3 hrs. + | done |tablespoonfuls| | + | | water | | + | | | | + Sauerkraut | | Brine[1] |Quart | 40 min. + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook ¾ | Hot water |Quart |1 hr. 40 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook ¾ | Hot water | Pint |1 hr. 20 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| |Quart | 1½ hrs. + | thick | | | + | | | | + Apples | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 15 min. + | | | | + Berries | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 13 min. + | | | | + Figs | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Peaches |1-2 min. | No. 2 sirup |Quart | 25 min. + | | | | + Pears | 1 min. | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 25-35 min. + | | | | + Cherries | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirups recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below: + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |SIZE |PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |JAR | EACH OF THREE + | | | | SUCCESSIVE DAYS + ----------------------------------------------------------------- + Corn |2 min. on cob|Water, salt |Pint | 1½ hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Garden peas|1 to 4 min. |Water, salt |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 20 min. + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. + | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Quart| 1¾ hr. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Quart| 1¾ hr. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS + |BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|OR BOIL + + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water | 3 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water |10 | 5 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |10 | 3 | 2 hrs. and + | | | | | 20 min. + | | | | | + Sweet potatoes |Cook ¾ |2 tablespoonfuls| 3 | 3 | 3 hrs. + | done | water | | | + | | | | | + Baby beets |Cook ¾ | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1½ hrs. + | done | | | | + | | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + | thick | | | | + | | | | | + Apples |1 min. | No. 3 sirup | 3 | 3 | 8 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. |No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 10 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 32 min. + | | | | | + Figs | | No. 4 sirup | 2 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Peaches |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 35 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirup recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below. + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 4, use 5 pounds 8 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 5, use 6 pounds 13 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|EACH OF THREE + | | | | |SUCCESSIVE DAYS + + Corn |2 min. on |Water, salt| 2 | 10 |1 hr. and 15 min. + | cob | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Garden peas |1 to 4 min.|Water, salt| 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min.| Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1½ hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1½ hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon of +water.] + +You will notice in the time-table for tin, that there is a column for +"Exhausting." After the can is packed and capped it is placed in the +canner of boiling water to within 1 inch of the top of the can where +it remains the number of minutes, usually three, indicated on the +time-table. This is done to force the air from the can through the +little hole left open in the top, and is called exhausting. Cans that +are not exhausted frequently bulge after processing and are looked +upon with suspicion. Cans exhausted too long frequently cave in at the +sides. The time-table should be used carefully and followed strictly +in this part of the process. Tin cans do not require exhausting in the +Northern and Western states. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES +STEAM PRESSURE + + | | |TEMPERATURE,| | + |VEGETABLE |PROCESS,|DEGREES |PRESSURE| + | |MINUTES |FAHRENHEIT |POUNDS | + + |Asparagus |30 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 2|45 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 3|55 |240 |10 | + |Beets |30 |228 | 5 | + |Corn |80 |250 |15 | + |Okra |30 |240 |10 | + |Peas |45 |240 |10 | + |Soup, concentrated | | | | + | vegetable |30 |228 |10 | + |Spinach |30 |228 |15 | + |Sweet potatoes |70 |250 |15 | + +Corn, lima beans and peas should never be packed in larger container +than No. 2. Corn is cut from cob after blanching. + +The brine used is made of 2½ ounces salt to 1 gallon of water, except +for asparagus, which contains 4 ounces to 1 gallon. + +Beets and rhubarb when packed in tin must be put in enamel-lined cans. + +Process pints as for No. 2 cans; quarts as for No. 3 cans, adding 10 +minutes to each period. + +String beans when more mature should be processed at 15 pounds +pressure for 30 minutes for No. 2, and 45 minutes for No. 3. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + +Every day brings letters to my desk saying, "Why did my jars of +vegetables lose water?" or, "When I looked into my canner I saw all +the beautiful dark sirup in the bottom of the canner instead of in the +jars," or, "What shall I do, my beets are all white?" etc., etc. In +this chapter I am going to try and tell you a few things you must and +must not do. A few "Do's" and "Don'ts" may help you a little in your +canning and food preserving. + +I want to say right here that if you have failures do not blame the +method as we are always so apt to do. Experts have worked long enough, +carefully and thoroughly enough, to convince themselves and others +that the cold-pack method and the intermittent method, which methods +are employed for cooking the product in the jar, are sure, safe, +reliable and efficient methods. So if your food spoils convince +yourself it is not the method but something else. Spoilage is due to +imperfect jars, imperfect rubbers, imperfect sealing of tin cans, +careless blanching, insufficient cold dipping or poor sterilizing. + + +CAN-RUBBERS + +Possibly your canning troubles are all due to using a poor grade of +rubber rings. This is poor economy. Rubbers are apt to give more +trouble than anything else to canners when using glass jars. Many of +the rubbers sold are of a very poor quality, disintegrating quickly +when subjected to heat and strain. My sister, canning in the hot +climate of India, has more trouble with the rubber proposition than +anything else. + +You want good rubbers, are willing to pay for them, and here is what +you should know about rubber rings. + +The one-period, cold-pack method and the intermittent method of home +canning require a rubber ring essentially different from that commonly +used in the old hot-pack method of home canning. Investigation shows +that many of the rings upon the market are unsuitable for these newer +methods, being unable to withstand the long periods of boiling +required in the canning of vegetables and meats. + +Practical canning tests have indicated that rubber rings for use in +this method should meet the following requirements: + +Inside Diameter. The ring should fit closely, requiring a little +stretching to get it around the neck of the jar. For standard jars the +ring should have an inside diameter of 2¼ inches. + +Width of Ring and Flange. The width of the ring or flange may vary +from one-fourth of an inch to twelve thirty-seconds of an inch. Tests +which have been made show that fewer cases of "blow-out" occur when +the flange is ten thirty-seconds of an inch. + +Thickness. Rubber rings as found on the market may vary from 1/18 to +1/10 of an inch in thickness. Tests show that 1/12 of an inch in +thickness is sufficient to take up the unevenness in the jar and still +not so thick as to make it difficult to place the cap or adjust the +bail. + +Cold-pack and intermittent-canning require a rubber ring that is +tough, does not enlarge perceptibly when heated in water or steam, and +is not forced out of position between the top and the jar by slight +pressure within the jar. This we call a "blow-out." + +Rubber rings should be capable of withstanding four hours of +sterilization in boiling water without blowing out on partially sealed +jars, or one hour under ten pounds of steam pressure. They should be +selected with reference to proper inside diameter, width of flange, +and thickness. Good rubber will stretch considerably and return +promptly to place without changing the inside diameter. They should +also be reasonably firm and able to stand without breakage. Color is +given to rings by adding coloring matter during the manufacturing +process. The color of the ring is no index to its usefulness in home +canning. Red, white, black or gray may be used. + +Always use _new_ can-rubbers with each year's product of canned goods. +An old rubber may look like a new one but it has lost its elasticity +and its use may cause imperfect sealing and thus endanger the keeping +quality of the food. This is always a hard thing to impress upon +thrifty penny-saving housekeepers. The old rubber looks so good, so +why not use it? But be wise in this and remember it is _never safe to +use old rubbers_. New rubbers are expensive but what about the cost of +the product, the loss of your time and fuel! One jar lost due to an +old rubber is so much food, time and fuel lost. + +And do not think yourself thrifty to use two old rubber rings instead +of one, thereby thinking to obtain a better seal, for you will not. +Two old rubbers are inferior in strength to one new good rubber. If +you use old rubbers and your canned goods spoil, blame the rubbers. + + +GLASS JARS + +Next in importance to the rubbers are the glass jars you use. There +are many kinds of fruit jars on the market. The question is frequently +asked, "Which jars on the market are the best." The only answer to +that is to choose the jar which is simplest in construction, which +will seal perfectly and wash easily, which protects the contained food +against contact with metal, which has the fewest parts to lose or +misplace and which fits the shelves and receptacles planned to hold +it. + + +FLAT SOUR + +Flat-sour often causes annoyance to beginners in canning some +vegetables, such as corn, peas, beans and asparagus. These canned +foods may show no signs of spoilage and yet when the can is opened the +product may have a sour taste and a disagreeable odor. This +"flat-sour" is not harmful and must not be confused with "botulinus," +which is harmful. However, the taste and odor are so disagreeable you +will have no desire to eat "flat-sour" canned goods. + +This trouble can be avoided if you will use fresh products, that is, +those which have not been allowed to wilt or stand around the shops +for several days, and will blanch, cold-dip, and pack one jar of +product at a time, and place each jar in the canner as it is packed. +The first jars in will not be affected by the extra cooking. When the +steam-pressure canner is used the jars or cans may be placed in the +retort and the cover placed into position but not clamped down until +the retort is filled. + + +TROUBLES WITH CORN + +Corn seems to give the most trouble, but with a little care and study +this product may be canned as easily as any other grown in the garden. +A little experience in selecting the ears and ability to recognize +corn that is just between the milk and dough stage is important. +Blanch not longer than five minutes. A plunge in cold water is +sufficient. Cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife and pack at +once in sterilized jars. Best results can be accomplished when two +people cut and one person fills. If it is necessary for one person to +work alone, cut off sufficient corn to fill one jar, pour on _boiling_ +water, add salt, place rubber and cap in position and put the jar at +once in the canner. A little overcooking does not injure the quality +of canned corn. Corn should not be tightly packed in the jar; it +expands a little in processing and for this reason each jar should be +filled scant full. Corn that has a cheesy appearance after canning had +reached the dough stage before being packed. Corn should never be +allowed to remain in the cold dip and large quantities should not be +dipped at one time unless sufficient help is available to handle the +product quickly. + +Some to be absolutely sure when canning corn, cook it for ten minutes +in hot water before packing into jars. + +Leave fully one inch of space at the top when packing corn but enough +water may be poured into the jar to fill the can or jar, for when the +corn swells the water will be absorbed. + +Corn Turning Dark. A dark color in canned corn is due to some of +the following causes: + +1. Using water that contains too much iron. + +2. Using corn that has reached the dough stage. + +3. Blanching for too long a period--five minutes is sufficient for +corn. + +Water-Logged or Soaked Corn. When canned corn becomes "water-logged" +or "soaked" it is due to such causes as the following: + +1. Allowing the product to stand in the cold water too long after the +hot dip. + +2. Allowing the jars to stand after they have been packed, and filled +with boiling water. The jars should be immediately placed in the +sterilizer after being packed. + +3. Allowing ears of corn to stand in cold water after opening. + +4. Heating corn in warm water over a slow fire. + + +BEETS, THEIR LOSS OF COLOR + +The loss of color in canned beets is due to faulty methods of +preparation before packing them into the jars. To secure good results +3 or 4 inches of the top and all of the tail should be left on while +blanching. Beets should be blanched for five minutes and the skin +should be scraped but not peeled. Beets should be packed whole if +possible. + +Small beets that run forty to a quart are less likely to fade and are +the most suitable size for first-class packs. The older the beets the +more chance there is for loss of color. Well-canned beets will show a +slight loss of color when removed from the canner, but will brighten +up in a few days. + + +CLOUDY PEAS + +The condition of peas known as "cloudy" is due to such causes as the +following: + +1. Cracking the skin of the pea. + +2. Blanching for too long a period. + +3. Use of water which is too hard or has too much mineral content. + + +SHRINKAGE OF PRODUCT DURING CANNING + +Shrinkage may be due to one or more of the following: + +1. Improper blanching and cold-dipping. + +2. Careless packing and using variety of sizes. + +3. Sterilizing for too long a period. + +4. Lack of sizing whole products for the container. + +Sometimes there is a natural shrinkage that cannot be prevented. This +is due to the fact that vegetables contain air in their tissues and +when this air is driven off by the heat, the boiling water in the jar +rushes in to fill its place. In consequence we have an apparent +shrinkage in the amount of water. So be careful to do the blanching as +correctly as possible to drive out the air; however, the product will +keep just as well in a jar half full of water as if entirely covered +with liquid. The contents of the jar whether food or air are sterile. + + +SHRINKAGE OF GREENS + +Shrinkage of greens or pot herbs during the canning process is usually +due to insufficient blanching. The proper way to blanch all greens or +pot herbs is in a steamer or in a vessel improvised to do the +blanching in live steam above the water line. If this is not done +much of the mineral salts and volatile oil contents will be extracted +by the water and lost. + + +LOSS OF LIQUID DURING CANNING + +A loss of liquid in canning with a hot-water-bath outfit may be caused +by one or more of the following: + +1. Not having the water in the sterilizing vat cover the tops of the +jars by at least one inch. + +2. Not providing a suitable platform to hold the jars off the bottom +of the sterilizing vat, permitting circulation of water under as well +as around the jars. + +3. Not having the wire bail that goes over the glass tops of jars +sufficiently tight. + + +REASONS WHY JUICES ARE DRAWN FROM JARS WHEN CANNING WITH STEAM +PRESSURE + +1. Open pet cock after pointer or gauge has reached zero; test for +pressure by opening pet cock slowly at first. The gauge does not +register pressure until about one pound of pressure has formed, hence +opening the pet cock before the pointer is at zero means that from one +to two pounds of pressure is being relieved and this will draw the +juices the same as allowing the boiler to stand and a vacuum to form. + +2. Allowing the pressure to fluctuate during the time of sterilizing, +such as running the pressure up to fifteen, back to seven or eight and +then up again. + +3. Wire bails can be and should be a little tighter when jars are put +in a steam pressure canner. The clamp should be left up as stated. + +4. There may be an escape of steam around the seal of the boiler and +this would allow the pressure on the inside of the boiler to +fluctuate. + +Any one of those four things will always cause loss of juice. + + +OPERATION OF HOT-WATER-BATH OUTFIT + +These four rules will help in the operation of the hot-water-bath +canning outfit: Example, wash boiler. + +1. Support the jars off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and around the jars. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the jars by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the jars. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to _jump_ over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. Remove jars from the water and tighten the covers as soon as the +time is up. + +Rapid cooling of the products prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture. + +Operation of steamers or "double-deckers" as they are sometimes +called. These have a small amount of water in a pan below two racks +and the products cook in steam instead of boiling water. + +1. Have water boiling in pan when products are put in. + +2. Use same time-table as for hot-water bath or wash boiler. + +3. Remove jars from steam at the end of the sterilizing period. Do not +allow them to "cool off" in the steamer. + +The operation of a water-seal canner is very simple. + +1. Jars put on racks and lowered in water as in wash-boiler but due +to an extra jacket the temperature is higher than boiling water. + +2. Follow time-table under water-seal. + + +OPERATION OF STEAM PRESSURE AND PRESSURE COOKER CANNER + +1. Place each jar in the canner as soon as it is packed. + +2. Have water come up to but not above the platform. + +3. Have canner absolutely steam tight. + +4. When canner has been filled fasten opposite clamps moderately +tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Allow pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +6. Close pet cock. + +7. Force pressure to the required point before counting time. + +8. Maintain a uniform pressure during the sterilizing period. + +9. Allow canner to cool before opening pet cock. + +10. Have pet cock completely closed during the cooling. + +11. Open pet cock before vacuum forms. This is evidenced by a rush of +air into the canner when the pet cock is open. You can test this by +placing the finger over the end of the pet cock. If a vacuum forms it +will draw the flesh of the finger into the opening. + +12. Remove jars from canner and tighten lids as soon as canner is +opened. + + +BREAKAGE OF JARS + +When breakage of jars occurs it is due to such causes as these: + +1. Overpacking jars. Corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell or expand +in processing. Do not quite fill jars with these products. + +2. Placing cold jars in hot water or vice versa. As soon as jars are +filled with hot sirup or hot water, place immediately in the canner. + +3. Having the wire bail of glass top jars too tight. + +4. In steam canner, having too much water in the canner. The water +should not come above the tray. + +5. Cold draft striking the jars when they are removed from the canner. + +6. Wire spring too tight, thus breaking jar when contents expand. + + +MOLD ON CANNED PRODUCTS + +Mold may result from one or more of the following: + +1. Leaky rubbers or defective joints. + +2. Removing tops from the jars at the end of sterilizing period and +substituting new rubbers, without returning the jars to the canning +outfit for at least a few minutes. + +3. If the jars are kept in a damp cellar where the rubbers may +decompose, mold may enter through these decomposed rubbers. + + +ACIDITY OF TOMATOES AFTER CANNING + +Too great a degree of acidity in canned tomatoes may be due to +climatic conditions or overripe or underripe product. Such acidity +can be corrected by adding ¼ teaspoonful of baking soda to one quart +of tomatoes. + + +WATER REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME CANNING + +The hardening of beans, peas and some other products after cooking or +processing, or the turning of green vegetables to a dark or russet +color usually indicates that the water contains too high a percentage +of mineral matter. Water used for canning purposes should be pure, +soft if possible or as free from objectionable and excessive qualities +of mineral matter as possible. If you are to can any large quantity of +food products and have difficulty with the water available, it would +be well for you to have the water analyzed and for you to secure the +advice of some one at your college of agriculture. + + +TOO MUCH SALT IN CANNED GOODS INJURIOUS TO QUALITY + +Most vegetables as well as meats are injured in quality by an +excessive use of salt for seasoning in the canning process. A little +salt is very palatable and its use should be encouraged but it is +better to add no salt in canning than to use too much, as it can be +added to suit the taste when served. + + +ALTITUDE AND ITS EFFECT ON CANNING + +Remember that practically all instructions on home canning are based +upon a time schedule for sterilization from sea level to an altitude +of 500 feet above sea level. When canning at an altitude of more than +500 feet above sea level, it will be necessary to use your judgment in +the increase of time for sterilizing on the basis of 20 per cent for +each 4,000 feet. + +Blanching means _boiling_, not hot. In different directions for +canning we often find "hot" water mentioned when boiling water is +intended. Water should be _boiling at a gallop_ when vegetables are +blanched--berries and soft fruits are not usually blanched, though +some are scalded to loosen the skin. + + +BERRIES OR FRUIT RISING TO THE TOP + +Some women are disturbed because berries and fruits have a tendency to +always rise to the top of the jar leaving a sirup space in the bottom. +To prevent this you can scald all berries and fruits which are not +ordinarily scalded, for one minute and then cold-dip them. They will +be softened some, but remain firm, and can be packed very closely in a +jar. They can be packed so closely that only a little sirup can be +added. When a jar thus packed comes from the sterilizer the berries or +fruit are not floating as they would be if they were not scalded. + +Another method employed to prevent berries from floating is to put the +hot sterilized jar on its side while cooling and to roll it frequently +during the cooling period. The berries are then evenly distributed +through the sirup. + +In canning mushrooms in tin, always use lacquered cans. Do not fail to +blanch and cold dip before packing, and remove the mushrooms +immediately after opening the tin cans. + +In canning cabbage and other similar products always soak the product +in cold brine for one hour before sterilizing. Use ½ pound salt to 12 +quarts water. This is believed to improve the flavor. Always wash +greens or other vegetables, to remove all dirt and grit. + + +TROUBLES WITH TIN CANS + +To discover pin-holes or any leaks in a tin can, immerse it in boiling +water after sealing and if there is any bubbling from the can, you may +rest assured it needs resealing. + +Swells in tin cans are caused by insufficient sterilization. The +action of bacteria causes gas to form in the can and as a result there +is a bulging at either end. If left alone long enough the cans will +explode. Watch carefully all bulging cans and use them first. +Sometimes a slight bulge occurs when a can has been filled too full. + +If you have trouble sealing tin cans the chances are that the can is +too full. See that no particle of food touches the top or when +soldering, if you employ that method of sealing, small pin holes will +be blown in the seal by escaping steam which is generated by the hot +sealer coming in contact with the cold food. Another cause of sealing +trouble lies sometimes in a poorly heated capping steel or because it +is not kept brightly tinned. To make a proper seal the steel must be +kept bright, hot and clean. + +Also, be sure you buy good solder as there are inferior grades that +are too poor to flow when properly heated. + + +FROZEN PRODUCTS + +Watch all jars and cans that have been subjected to a freeze. If the +cans or jars do not burst the only harm done is a slight softening of +the food tissues. In glass jars after freezing there is sometimes a +small crack left which will admit air and consequently bacteria. + +Sometimes cans and jars tip over in the wash boiler during +sterilizing. This is caused by using a false-bottom which is too low +or because it is not well perforated. Or it may be due to the fact +that the jar was not well packed and so may be too light in weight. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +GETTING READY TO DRY + + +For various reasons women have not taken so kindly to drying fruits +and vegetables as they have to canning these foods. + +One woman said to me: "I like the canning because I can come to a +demonstration and see the whole process carried through from start to +finish. The drying of strawberries cannot be completed in sixteen +minutes as the canning is." And another woman said: "What I do not +like about drying is having the stuff standing round the house +somewhere for so many hours. I like to get things in the jars and out +of sight." + +These two objections seem to be expressed more than any other. And in +addition there is a third objection to drying: "I want my prepared +food ready to use on a minute's notice. I can quickly open a can of my +fruit and vegetables and there it is ready. With my dried things I +have to allow time for soaking and cooking." This we will have to +admit is true. But what weight have these three arguments against the +many advantages of drying? + +When we study the history of food preservation we find that drying was +practiced before canning, pickling or preserving. I know my +grandmother successfully dried quantities of things. + +Vegetable and fruit drying have been little practiced for a +generation or more, though there have been some thrifty housekeepers +who have clung to their dried corn, peas, beans and apples. A friend +of mine says: "Why, dried corn has a much better, sweeter taste than +your canned stuff. I would rather have one little dish of my delicious +dried corn than two big dishes of your canned corn." + +Drying, I think we will all admit, does not and cannot take the place +of canning fruits and vegetables in glass or tin. Drying and canning +are twin sisters, and always go hand in hand. + +The ideal arrangement for all homes, whether on the farm, in the +village, in the town or in the city, is to have an ample supply of +canned food for emergencies and quick service, and an equally ample +supply of dried foods when meals are planned beforehand and there is +time enough for the soaking and cooking of the dried foods. + + +THE ADVANTAGES OF DRYING + +When we come right down to facts, drying has many advantages over +canning. + +The process is very simple, as you will see. The cost is slight. In +almost every home the necessary equipment, in its simplest form, is +already at hand. There is no expense for glass jars or tin cans, and +with ordinary care there is no loss of products, as there may be in +handling glass jars or from spoilage. The actual work requires less +time and less skill than canning and the dried products when properly +prepared are just as good as the canned ones--some say better. + +One special thing in favor of drying is the little storage space +needed. You can often reduce 100 pounds of fresh product to ten +pounds by drying, without any loss of food value and with little loss +of flavor. + +Dried products can be moved more conveniently than glass jars or tin +cans, for they are usually reduced to from one-third to one-fifth of +the original bulk. + +Another valuable thing about drying is that the little odds and ends +one would scarcely bother to can may be dried in the oven as you go +about your housework. + +I have often been asked the difference between the meaning of the +terms "evaporated," "dried," "desiccated" and "dehydrated." These +terms are used more or less interchangeably when applied to foods from +which the moisture has been removed. In a general way, however, +"evaporated" products are those from which the moisture has been +removed through the agency of artificial heat; dried fruit is that +which has been exposed to the heat of the sun, though not infrequently +the term is applied to products handled in the evaporator. The other +terms are commonly applied to products that have been evaporated by +one of the various patented processes in which equipment of some +special design has been used. + +To avoid any confusion we will use the general term "dried" for all +products that have enough of the water removed to prevent bacterial +action, but which still retain the maximum food value, color and +flavor of the original product. And that is what we want to accomplish +when we attempt to dry. + +How are we to remove the water and still retain food value, color and +flavor? There are three principal methods by which we can do this. +First, by artificial heat. Drying by artificial heat is done in the +oven or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays suspended on the +stove or in a specially constructed dryer built at home or purchased. + +Second, by the sun. Sun drying is done either out of doors in the sun, +under glass in sun parlors, or the products are hung in the attic +where the sun has free access. + +Third, satisfactory drying may be done by an air blast from an +electric fan. + +Of course any one of these may be used alone or two different methods +may be combined. You can start a product on the stove and finish it in +the sun, or _vice versa._ + +The simplest and yet the most effective drying may be done on plates +or dishes placed in the oven. It may be done on the back of the +kitchen stove with these same utensils while the oven is being used +for baking. In this way left-overs and other bits of food may be dried +with slight trouble while the stove is being used, and saved for +winter use. This method is especially effective for sweet corn. A few +sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a single turnip, may be dried +and saved. + +To keep the heat from being too great, when drying in the oven leave +the oven door partly open. For oven use, a simple tray may be made of +galvanized-wire screen of convenient size, with the edges bent up for +an inch or two on each side. At each corner this tray should have a +leg an inch or two in length to hold it up from the bottom of the oven +and permit circulation of air round the product. + +Oven drying in a gas range is an effective method if the temperature +is kept even. An oven thermometer is a great convenience, otherwise +the temperature will have to be carefully watched and the burners +turned as low as possible. It is economy in the end to purchase an +oven thermometer, for then you can have the temperature just right. It +is best to start the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit and dry at +130 degrees. Never go over 150 degrees. + +If you wish to dry in the oven over the kerosene stove, place +soapstones over each burner to prevent the heat from becoming too +intense. Turn the burners very low until the stones are thoroughly +heated. You can turn off the burners completely after the desired +temperature is reached and it will be maintained from the heat of the +stones for five or six hours. If more time than that is required for +the drying, it may be necessary to light the burners again before the +end of the process. The products should be turned constantly, so that +they may dry evenly. + +When using any oven for drying you can cover the oven racks with +cheesecloth and spread the products on them. Always have the racks two +or three inches apart to allow free circulation of air. + +An effective dryer for use over a stove or range may easily be made at +home. For the frame use strips of wood a half inch thick and two +inches wide. The trays or shelves are made of galvanized-wire screen +of small mesh tacked to the supports. Separate trays sliding on strips +attached to the framework are desirable. This dryer may be suspended +from the ceiling over the kitchen stove or range or over an oil, +gasoline or gas stove, and it may be used while cooking is being done. +If an oil stove is used there must be a tightly fitting tin or +galvanized-iron bottom to the dryer, to prevent the fumes of the oil +from reaching and passing through the material which is to be dried. A +bottom of this kind may be easily attached to any dryer, homemade or +commercial. A framework crane makes it possible for this dryer to be +swung to one side when not in use. + +A larger kind of homemade stove dryer can be made. This is a good +size: base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The lower part or +supporting framework, six inches high, is made of galvanized sheet +iron, slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with two ventilating +holes in each of the four sides. The frame which rests on this base is +made of strips of wood one or one and a half inches wide. Wooden +strips, an inch and a quarter wide and three inches apart, serve to +brace the sides and furnish supports for the trays. + +In a dryer of the dimensions given there is room for eight trays. The +sides, top and back are of galvanized-iron or tin sheets, tacked to +the framework, though thin strips of wood may be used instead of the +metal. Small hinges and a thumb latch are provided for the door. +Galvanized sheet iron, with numerous small holes in it, is used for +making the bottom of the dryer. To prevent direct heat from coming in +contact with the product and also to distribute the heat by radiation, +a piece of galvanized sheet iron is placed two inches above the +bottom. This piece is three inches shorter and three inches narrower +than the bottom and rests on two wires fastened to the sides. + +The trays are made of wooden frames of one-inch strips, to which is +tacked galvanized-wire screen. Each tray should be three inches +shorter than the dryer and enough narrower to allow it to slide +easily on the supports when being put in or taken out. + +In placing the trays in the dryer push the lower one back as far as it +will go, leaving a three-inch space in front. Place the next tray even +with the front, leaving the space at the back. Alternate all the trays +in this way to facilitate the circulation of the heated air. It is +well to have a ventilating opening, six by two inches, in the top of +the dryer to discharge moisture. The trays should be shifted during +the drying process to procure uniformity of drying. + +Several types of stove dryers are on the market. One of these has a +series of trays in a framework, forming a compartment. This is placed +on top of the stove. Another is a shallow metal box which is filled +with water. This is really a water-bath dryer. This dryer or +dehydrator can be used on either a gas or coal range. A thermometer is +necessary in order to maintain the right temperature. The slices of +vegetables or fruit are placed on the tray with the thermometer, and +the dryer does the work. + +Commercial dryers having their own furnaces may be bought at prices +ranging from $24 to $120. Some of these, in the smaller sizes, may be +bought without furnaces and used on top of the kitchen stove. The cost +is from $16 upward. + +Sun drying has much to recommend it. There is no expense for fuel, no +thermometer is needed, and there is no danger of overheating the +fruits or vegetables. + +For sun drying of fruits and vegetables, the simplest way is to spread +the slices or pieces on sheets of plain paper or lengths of muslin and +expose them to the sun. Muslin is to be preferred if there is danger +of sticking. Trays may be used instead of paper or muslin. Sun drying +requires bright, hot days and a breeze. Once or twice a day the +product should be turned or stirred and the dry pieces taken out. The +drying product should be covered with cheesecloth tacked to a frame +for protection from dust and flying insects. If trays are rested on +supports placed in pans of water, the products will be protected from +crawling insects. Care must be taken to provide protection from rain, +dew and moths. During rains and just before sunset the products should +be taken indoors. + +To make a cheap tray for use in sun drying, take strips of wood +three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches wide for the sides and +ends. To form the bottom, laths should be nailed to these strips, with +spaces of one-eighth of an inch between the laths to permit air +circulation. A length of four feet, corresponding to the standard +lengths of laths, is economical. Instead of the laths galvanized-wire +screen with openings of one-eighth or one-quarter of an inch, may be +used. In using wire the size of the tray should be regulated by the +width of wire screen obtainable. The trays should be of uniform size, +so that they may be stacked together for convenience in handling. + +A small homemade sun dryer, easily constructed, is made of light +strips of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of galvanized-wire +screen and some cheesecloth. A convenient size for the glass top is +eighteen by twenty-four inches. To hold the glass make a light wooden +frame of strips of wood a half inch thick and one inch wide. This +frame should have legs of material one by one and a half inches, with +a length of twelve inches for the front legs and eighteen inches for +those in the rear. This will cause the top to slope, which aids in +circulation of air and gives direct exposure to the rays of the sun. +As a tray support nail a strip of wood to the legs on each of the four +sides, about four inches below the top framework and sloping parallel +with the top. The tray is made of thin strips of wood about two inches +wide and has a galvanized-wire screen bottom. There will be a space of +about two inches between the top edges of the tray and the glass top +of the dryer, to allow for circulation of air. + +Protect both sides, the bottom and the front of the dryer with +cheesecloth, tacked on securely and snugly, to exclude insects and +dust without interfering with circulation. At the rear place a +cheesecloth curtain, tacked at the top but swinging free below, to +allow the tray to be moved in and out. Brace the bottom of this +curtain with a thin strip of wood, as is done in window shades. This +curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons when the tray is in +place. If you have a sunny, breezy attic you can hang your drying +trays there. + +The use of an electric fan is an effective means of drying. As there +is no danger of the food scorching, the fan proves as effective as the +sun for drying. + +Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed on trays one foot wide and +three feet long. These trays are stacked and the fan placed close to +one end, with the current of air directed lengthwise along the trays. +The number of trays to be used is regulated by the size of the fan. +Drying by this process may be done in twenty-four hours or less. With +sliced string beans and shredded sweet potatoes a few hours are +sufficient if the air is dry. + +Of importance equal to proper drying is the proper packing and storage +of the finished product. Use baking-powder and coffee cans and similar +covered tins, pasteboard boxes with tight-fitting covers, strong paper +bags, and patented paraffin paper boxes, which may be bought in +quantities at comparatively low cost. + +A paraffin container of the type used by oyster dealers for the +delivery of oysters will be found inexpensive and easily handled. If +using this or a baking-powder can or similar container, after filling +adjust the cover closely. The cover should then be sealed. To do this +paste a strip of paper round the top of the can, covering the joint +between can and cover for the purpose of excluding air. Pasteboard +boxes should be sealed by applying melted paraffin with a brush to the +joint. + +If a paper bag is used the top should be twisted, doubled over and +tied with a string. Moisture may be kept out of paper bags by coating +them, using a brush dipped into melted paraffin. Another good +precaution is to store bags in an ordinary lard pail or can or other +tin vessel having a closely fitting cover. + +The products should be stored in a cool, dry place, well ventilated +and protected from rats, mice and insects. In localities where the air +is very moist, moisture-proof containers must be used. It is good +practice to use small containers, so that it will not be necessary to +leave the contents exposed long after opening and before using. + +A very good plan is to pack just enough fruit or vegetables for one or +two meals in each container. This will lessen the chance of large +quantities being spoiled. For convenience label all packages. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + +Having decided to add the accomplishment of drying to your other +housewifely arts, you have given some thought and study to the subject +of driers. You now know whether you prefer sun, artificial or fan +drying. You have either made or bought some kind of a drier. Little +other equipment is needed. + +A few good paring knives, some plates, and if possible some cutting or +slicing device to lighten the work of preparation are all that are +necessary. A sharp kitchen knife will serve every purpose in slicing +and cutting fruits for drying, if no other device is at hand. The +thickness of all slices of fruit should be from an eighth to a quarter +of an inch. Whether sliced or cut into strips the pieces should be +small, so as to dry quickly. They should not, however, be so small as +to make them hard to handle or to keep them from being used to +advantage in preparing dishes for the table, such as would be prepared +from fresh products. Berries are dried whole. Apples, quinces, peaches +and pears dry better if cut into halves, rings or quarters. + +Cleanliness is essential. A knife blade that is not bright and clean +will discolor the product on which it is used. + +Winter apples should be chosen for drying when possible, as sweet +apples and early varieties are not so well adapted to the purpose. +The Northern Spy, the Baldwin and the Ben Davis give a good-flavored +dried product. Most early varieties lack sufficient firmness of +texture for the best results. On the other hand, some comparatively +early kinds, such as Gravenstein and Porter, are considerably prized +in some sections. + +To prepare them for drying, apples are peeled, cored, trimmed and +sliced one quarter of an inch thick. Be sure to cut out all worm +holes, decayed spots and other blemishes. Defects are easily cut out +with an ordinary straight-back, sharp-pointed knife having a blade two +and a half to three inches long. + +To prevent discoloration, as fast as the fruit is prepared dip it into +a weak salt solution--three level teaspoonfuls of salt to one gallon +of water. After all the apples are prepared, remove surplus moisture +and put on trays, water-bath drier or whatever device you are using. + + +HOW TO REGULATE THE HEAT + +Start with the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually raise +it to 130 degrees and do the drying at that temperature. It is +important to know the degree of heat in the drier, and this cannot be +determined very accurately except by using a thermometer. Inexpensive +oven thermometers can be bought or an ordinary thermometer can be +suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not used the greatest care +should be given to the regulation of the heat. The temperature in the +drier rises rather quickly and the product may scorch unless close +attention is given to it. + +The reason sun drying is popularly believed to give fruits and +vegetables a sweeter flavor probably is that in the sun they never are +scorched, whereas in the oven or over a stove scorching is likely to +happen unless one is very careful. An oven or dairy thermometer is a +good investment. If you do not have a thermometer test the heat by the +air feeling warm to the hand. The product should never be so hot that +it cannot be grasped in the hand. In order to prevent the fruit from +burning where artificial heat is used and to keep it from sticking to +the drier by remaining in contact with it too long, stir the fruit +occasionally. To insure the most uniform drying in sun drying, the +fruit also should be stirred occasionally. + +Remember that if trays with metal bottoms are used for drying, they +should be covered with cheesecloth to prevent acid action. Oven racks +may be covered with either cheesecloth or heavy wrapping paper. + +The interval between stirring varies with the type of drier used, with +the condition of the fruit and with the degree of heat maintained. +Make the first stirring within two hours after the drying is begun. +After that examine the product from time to time and stir often enough +to prevent scorching or sticking and to insure uniform drying. Use a +wooden paddle for stirring. Where several trays or racks are placed +one above the other, it is necessary to shift the trays from time to +time, so the upper tray goes to the bottom and the bottom tray to the +top. + +The time necessary for drying fruit depends upon several factors: The +type and construction of the drier; the depth to which the fruit is +spread; the method of preparing, whether sliced, quartered or whole; +the temperature maintained; and weather conditions, whether bright +and sunny or cloudy and damp. + +If the atmosphere is heavy and damp the drying is retarded. Under some +conditions it is hardly possible thoroughly to dry fruit. + +There is possibly no step in the entire drying process that requires +better-trained judgment than the matter of knowing when the fruit is +sufficiently dried. A little experience will soon teach this. + +The fruit should be so dry that when a handful of slices is pressed +together firmly into a ball the slices will be "springy" enough to +separate at once upon being released from the hand. No fruit should +have any visible moisture on the surface. As the dried apples, pears, +peaches and apricots are handled they should feel soft and velvety to +the touch and have a pliable texture. You do not want fruit so dry +that it will rattle. If fruits are brittle you have dried them too +much. + +After the apples and all other fruits are dried they must go through +another process, called "conditioning." The best way to "condition" +fruits is to place them in boxes or cans and pour them from one +container into another once a day for three or four successive days. +By doing this you mix the fruit thoroughly and give to the whole mass +an even degree of moisture. Pieces that are too dry will absorb +moisture from those that are too moist. + +You may lose a whole bag or jar of dried products if you neglect the +conditioning, for if one moist piece goes into that bag all is lost. +Moisture breeds mold and mold means decay. + +Ask yourself these questions: "Do I ever lose any dried products? Are +my dried products when soaked and cooked as near like the original +fruit as possible?" If you lose products and if your dried fruits are +tasteless you had better start the conditioning process. For with this +one step added to your drying you need lose no dried products, and you +need not dry the fruits to the brittle stage, as you must of necessity +do when you put them away immediately. + +After you have poured the dried products back and forth every day for +three or four days as an additional precaution, reheat the dried fruit +to 140 degrees just long enough--about thirty minutes--to allow the +heat to penetrate throughout the product. + +Two kinds of moths stand out prominently among insects that attack +dried fruits and vegetables. They are much more likely to get into the +fruit during the process of drying than to find their way through +boxes into the stored products. This applies particularly to drying in +the sun. The Indian-meal moth is the most destructive of these +insects. It is about three-eighths of an inch long and has a cloaked +appearance, one-third gray and the rest copper-brown. The fig moth is +about the same size, but dark, neutral gray. A minute, flattened +chocolate-brown beetle usually accompanies these moths and does +considerable damage. Both of the moths deposit their eggs on fruit +when it is on the drying racks--usually at dusk or after dark, for +these insects are not fond of daylight. + +It takes from three to ten days for the eggs to hatch into whitish or +pinkish grublike caterpillars, and from five to ten weeks from the +laying of the eggs before more moths appear to lay another lot of +eggs. A number of "broods" or generations are produced yearly, so if +a few of these moth eggs are stored away on dried fruits or vegetables +hundreds of caterpillars are produced and many pounds of valuable +material may be destroyed during the winter if the products are stored +in a warm room. Dried fruits stored in warm, dark bins or in sacks +offer especially favorable places for the development of these +destructive moths. + +It is evident that the larger the package, the greater the chance of a +few eggs doing much damage. Small cartons or containers confine the +injury from these moths to small quantities of material; for if the +containers are closed tightly the insects cannot easily escape from +them and infest other packages which may not have been infested +previously. + +If you are drying by sun and the products are not thoroughly dry at +night, finish the process on the stove. If you desire to carry it over +to the next day screen the drying racks early in the evening and +fasten down the cheesecloth. With these precautions and with proper +storage, no danger ordinarily need be feared from these insects. The +additional precaution of heating the dried product to 140 degrees for +thirty minutes sterilizes it if already infested. + +Though not necessary, tin cans or glass jars make good receptacles for +storage of dried fruits or vegetables. Pasteboard boxes with tight +covers, stout paper bags and patented paraffin paper cartons also +afford ample protection for dried products when protected from insects +and rodents. The dried products must be protected from outside +moisture, and will keep best in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. +These conditions, however, are difficult to obtain in the more humid +regions, and there moisture-tight containers should be used. If a +small amount of dried product is put in each receptacle, just enough +for one or two meals, it will not be necessary to open a container, +the contents of which cannot be consumed in a short time. If a paper +bag is used the upper part should be twisted into a neck, bent over +and tied tightly with a string. A further precaution is to place the +small bags in a tin container with a tightly fitting cover, such as an +ordinary lard can. All bags should bear a label. + +Pears and quinces usually are prepared and dried exactly as are +apples. Pears are attractive when cut lengthwise into halves, with the +stem and calyx removed but the core left in. Or they may be quartered. +If sliced like apples the drying period is shortened. + +Peaches usually are dried unpeeled, but they are better if peeled +before drying. The first step in the preparation of peaches is to +split them open to remove the pit. To do this, cut completely round +the peach in the line of the suture with a sharp knife. The cut must +be complete, for tearing of the flesh will make the finished product +less attractive. If the fruit is to be peeled the paring should be +done before it is cut open to remove the pit. + +To facilitate the removal of the skin, dip the peaches in a kettle of +boiling water for one and a half minutes; then plunge directly into +cold water, after which the skins can be easily slipped off. After the +pit has been removed, lay on drier pit side up. The juice of the fruit +will collect in the pit or "cup" and will add to the flavor and +quality of the dried peaches. The peaches can be cut into smaller +pieces if you wish to lessen the drying period. + +Plums and apricots are not peeled, but are cut into halves, the pits +removed and dried in the same way as peaches. Small, thin-fleshed +varieties of plums are not suitable for drying. + +When drying cherries always remove the stems. The pits may or may not +be removed. The best product for later cooking or eating has the pit +removed, though large quantities of juices are lost in the pitting +unless you provide some way of saving and utilizing it. + +A prune is simply a plum having certain qualities not possessed by all +plums. All prunes are plums, but not all plums are prunes. The final +test as to whether a plum is a prune is the ability to dry without +fermenting with the pit still remaining in the fruit. If a plum cannot +dry without fermentation unless the pit is removed, it is not a prune. +Prunes for drying, like other fruits, should be fully ripe. + +Prunes are merely washed and then dried without removing the pits. The +fruit is dry when the skin is well shrunken. The texture should be +firm but springy and pliable enough to yield readily when pressed in +the hand. The drying should not be continued until the individual +prunes rattle as they are brought in contact with one another in +handling. Prunes must be conditioned before storing. + +In drying, prunes shrink about two-thirds in weight--that is, for +every three pounds of fresh fruit you get one pound of finished +product. + +Smaller fruits, such as red and black raspberries, blackberries, +huckleberries, dewberries, strawberries and blueberries, are simply +washed and then put to dry. Berries must not be dried too hard; if +too much moisture is removed they will not resume their original form +when soaked in water. But the material must be dried sufficiently or +it will mold. Haven't you often tasted extremely seedy dried berries? +They were dried until they rattled. Stop the drying as soon as the +berries fail to stain the hand when pressed. + +To obtain the most satisfactory results soft fruits should be only one +layer deep on the drying trays. + +Fruits contain about 80 to 95 per cent water and when dried +sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per cent of water, so it is a +good plan to weigh before and after drying. The product should lose +from two-thirds to four-fifths of its weight. + + +STEPS IN FRUIT DRYING + +1. Thoroughly cleanse the product. + +2. Prepare the product by slicing and so on. + +3. Spread on trays; put in oven or put on commercial drier. + +4. Stir occasionally. + +5. Shift trays. + +6. Test for completeness of drying. + +7. "Condition" for three or four days. Sweet fruits may contain more +moisture without spoiling than those of low sugar content. + +8. Heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for thirty minutes, to kill all +insects. + +9. Pack immediately in available receptacles. + +10. Label and store. + + +FRUIT PASTES + +Fruit pastes are delicious and can be dried. + +1. Select, wash, prepare fruit. +2. Cook until soft; stir. +3. Add sugar to sweeten. +4. Continue cooking until very thick. +5. Spread out flat by spoonfuls on oiled paper. +6. Dry in slow oven; finish drying over kitchen range. +7. Turn from time to time like griddle cakes. + +Nuts of all kinds can be dried in these cakes, which may be left whole +or cut in strips with scissors. + + +CANDIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES + +1. Select product of uniform size and ripeness. + +2. Wash; prepare in usual way. + +3. Cut fruit in halves, quarters or smaller sections; cut vegetables +in narrow strips two and a half inches long. + +4. Drop in a sirup cooked until it spins a thread. To prepare ginger +sirup, add a few roots of ginger to the sirup. + +5. Cook until transparent. + +6. Drain. + +7. Dry in slow oven; Finish drying over kitchen range. + +8. Roll in granulated sugar. (May be omitted for fruits.) + + +This method is recommended especially for candied apples, peaches, +pears and carrots. + +In a properly constructed sun drier, all fruits will dry in from 3 to +12 hours, under normal summer conditions. Time depends on dryness of +atmosphere, sunshine and wind. Products dried in a sun drier, no +matter how crude, are superior to those dried in the open without +protection of some kind. Products dry more rapidly in high altitudes +than at sea level. + +Racks in oven can be used. Plates or platters can be used in oven. A +stove drier hung over the stove can be used. A water-bath or other +commercial drier can be used with the stove. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING FRUITS + +[A] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TIME IN HOURS TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° F. + +[B] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] + | | | + Apples | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Drop in salt solution, 3 | | + |level teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of | | + | water to prevent discoloration. | | + | | | + Apricots |Remove pits, but do not peel. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + | into halves and dry, "cup" side | | + | up. | | + Berries, All| | | + Kinds | Wash; stem or hull. | 4-5 | 24-36 + | | | + Cherries | Remove stems. Pit or not, as | 2-4 | 24-36 + | desired. If pitted, save and | | + | utilize juice. | | + | | | + Pears | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Or peel, cut in halves | | + | lengthwise; remove stems and | | + | calyx. | | + | | | + Peaches |Peel, remove stones; cut in halves| 4-6 | 24-36 + | or smaller pieces. If in halves, | | + |lay pit or "cup" side up to retain| | + | juice. | | + | | | + Plums |Do not peel, but remove pits. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + |in halves and dry, "cup" side up. | | + | | | + Prunes | Wash; do not pit. | 5-7 | 24-36 + | | | + Quinces | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. | | + | | | + Rhubarb | Select young stems. Wash and cut | 6-8 | 24-36 + | into ½" pieces, using very sharp | | + |knife. Do not remove skins, so the| | + | rhubarb will retain pink color. | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + +Vegetable drying is a little more complicated than fruit drying, just +as vegetable canning is more complicated than fruit canning. Blanching +is an important part of the operation. It makes vegetable drying +satisfactory as well as easy and simple, just as it makes vegetable +canning possible. + +However, there is one difference between blanching vegetables for +canning and blanching them for drying. After repeated experiments it +has been found that for drying purposes it is best to blanch all +vegetables in steam rather than in boiling water. In vegetable canning +we blanch almost all vegetables in boiling water, usually steaming +only the members of the "green" family. + +So remember that for drying all vegetables are blanched in steam. To +do this steaming you can use your ordinary household steamer, such as +you use for steaming brown breads and suet puddings, or you can simply +place a colander over boiling water in a kettle. Do not allow the +colander to touch the water. If you are fortunate enough to possess a +pressure cooker, steam the vegetables for drying in it. + +Blanching is necessary for many reasons. It removes the strong +flavors, objectionable to many people. Beans, cabbage, turnips and +onions have too strong a flavor if dried without blanching. +Furthermore, it starts the color to flowing, just as it does in +canning. It removes the sticky coating round vegetables. Most +vegetables have a protective covering to prevent evaporation. The +removal of this covering by blanching facilitates drying. Blanching +also relaxes the tissues, drives out the air and improves the +capillary attraction, and as a result the drying is done in a much +shorter period. Products dry less rapidly when the texture is firm and +the tissue contains air. + +Blanching checks the ripening processes. The ripening process is +destroyed by heating and this is to be desired for drying purposes. + +Blanching kills the cells and thus prevents the hay-like flavor so +often noticed in unblanched products. It prevents changes after +drying, which otherwise will occur unless the water content is reduced +to about five per cent. + +Thorough blanching makes the product absolutely sanitary; no insect +eggs exist after blanching and cold-dipping. + +There is one precaution that must be followed: Do not blanch too long. +Blanching too long seems to break down the cell structure, so that the +product cannot be restored to its original color, shape or size. +Follow the blanching time-table for drying just as carefully as you +follow the blanching time-table for canning. + +After the blanching comes the cold-dip. For the benefit of new canning +and drying enthusiasts, let me explain that by "cold-dip" we mean +plunging the product immediately into a pan of very cold water or +holding it under the cold-water faucet until the product is thoroughly +cooled. Do not let the product stand in cold water, as it would then +lose more food value and absorb too much water. + +You can cold-dip the product without removing it from the colander, +strainer or steamer in which it is steamed. Plunge the vessel +containing the product into the cold water. + +The cold-dipping checks the cooking, sets the coloring matter which +was started to flowing in the blanching process, and it makes the +product much easier to handle. + +Let us now see just exactly what we must do when we want to dry sweet +corn, more of which is dried than of any other vegetable. All other +vegetables are dried in the same way as is corn, the only difference +being in the length of the blanching and drying period. + +All vegetables are prepared for drying just as they are prepared for +table use. When drying corn select ears that are young and tender, and +if possible freshly gathered. Products for drying should be in the +same perfect condition as you have them for table use. If wilted and +old it is not worth while drying them. + +Remove the husks and the silk, and steam--on the cob--for fifteen +minutes. This sets the milk, besides doing many other things which +blanching by steam always does. After the steaming, cold-dip the corn, +and then cut it from the cob, using a very sharp and flexible knife. +Cut the grains fine, but only halfway down to the cob; scrape out the +remainder of the grains, being careful not to scrape off any of the +chaff next to the cob. + +When field corn is used, the good, plump cooking stage is the proper +degree of ripeness for satisfactory drying. + +The corn should be thoroughly drained as this facilitates drying. You +can easily remove all surface moisture by placing the corn between +two towels and patting them. + +It is now ready for drying. The corn may be dried in the sun, but if +so, it is advisable first to dry it in the oven for ten or fifteen +minutes and then finish the drying in the sun. Never attempt sun +drying in moist weather. The corn may be dried by artificial heat, +either on top of the stove or in the oven, using either plates, +oven-racks properly covered, or any commercial dryer. + +Work quickly after the blanching and cold-dipping and get the corn +heated as quickly as possible in order to prevent souring. You get +"flat-sour" often when canning if you do not work quickly enough, and +you will get sour vegetables in drying if you work too slowly. + +Where artificial heat is used begin at a lower temperature and +gradually increase it. As the corn is drying, stir it from time to +time and readjust the trays if necessary. + +After the drying comes the test to determine whether or not the corn +is sufficiently dry. Vegetables at this point differ from fruits. +Fruits are dried only until leathery, whereas vegetables are dried +until they are bone-dry. They must crackle and snap. + +This test is sometimes used to see if the product is sufficiently dry: +Put some of it in a covered glass jar with a crisp soda cracker and +keep them there for a few hours. If the cracker loses its crispness +and becomes soft and damp there is still too much moisture in the +product and it should be dried a little longer to obtain the degree of +dryness required. + +After the corn is bone-dry it should, like all other vegetables and +fruits, be conditioned. This means to pour them from one bag or box +to another, once a day for three or four days. This enables you to +notice any moisture that may be left in the dried food. Foods that +show any traces of moisture should be returned to the drying tray for +a short time. + +Notice Lima beans particularly, as they require a longer conditioning +period than most vegetables. + +After the conditioning, in order to kill all insects and destroy all +eggs, it is advisable to place the vegetables on trays and heat them +in an oven for half an hour at a temperature of 140 degrees +Fahrenheit. Store directly from the oven. + +Dried vegetables are stored just as are dried fruits--in cans, cracked +jars that cannot be used for canning, fiber containers, cheesecloth, +paper bags or paraffin containers. + +In storing your dried products keep in mind these things: Protection +from moisture, insects, rats, mice, dust and light. If you observe all +these things it is unnecessary to have air-tight containers. + +All varieties of string beans can be dried, but only those fit for +table use should be used. Old, stringy, tough beans will remain the +same kind of beans when dried. There are two ways of preparing string, +wax or snap beans for drying: + +1. Wash; remove stem, tip and string. Cut or break into pieces +one-half to one inch long; blanch three to ten minutes, according to +age and freshness, in steam; cold-dip. Place on trays or dryer. If you +have a vegetable slicer it can be used for slicing the beans. + +2. Prepare as above, then blanch the whole beans. After cold-dipping, +thread them on coarse, strong thread, making long "necklaces" of +them; hang them above the stove or out of doors until dry. + +Lima beans should be shelled from the pod and then blanched two to +five minutes if young and tender. If larger and more mature blanch +five to ten minutes. + +Okra is blanched for three minutes. If the pods are young and small, +dry them whole. Older pods should be cut into quarter-inch slices. +Small tender pods are sometimes strung on stout thread and hung up to +dry. + +Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, removing the seed, +drying in the air, and finishing the drying in the dryer at 130 +degrees Fahrenheit. A more satisfactory method is to place peppers in +a biscuit pan in the oven and heat until the skins blister; or to +steam them until the skin softens, peel, split in half, take out seed, +and dry at 110 to 130 degrees. In drying thick-fleshed peppers like +the pimento, do not increase heat too quickly, but dry slowly and +evenly. + +Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until wilted +and the drying finished in the dryer, or they may be dried entirely in +the sun. + +Peppers often are dried whole. If large they can be strung on thread; +if small the whole plant can be hung up to dry. + +Shell full-grown peas and blanch three to five minutes; cold-dip and +then spread in a single layer on trays to dry. + +When drying the very tender young sugar peas, use the pod also. Wash +and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Blanch six minutes, cold-dip and +remove surplus moisture before drying. When drying beets always select +young, quickly grown, tender beets. Steam twenty to thirty minutes, or +until the skin cracks. Dip in cold water, peel and slice into +one-eighth to one-quarter inch slices. Then dry. + +Carrots having a large, woody core should not be dried. Blanch six +minutes; cold-dip. Carrots are often sliced lengthwise into pieces +about one-eighth inch thick. Parsnips, kohl-rabi, celeriac and salsify +are prepared in the same way as are carrots. + +Onions should be held under water while peeling and slicing to avoid +smarting of the eyes. They should be sliced into one-eighth to +one-quarter inch slices. Blanch five minutes, cold-dip, remove +superfluous moisture and dry. Leeks are handled as are onions. + +Select well-developed heads of cabbage and remove all loose outside +leaves. Split the cabbage, remove the hard, woody core and slice the +remainder of the head with a kraut slicer or cutter or with a large, +sharp knife. Blanch five to ten minutes and cold-dip; dry. + +Spinach and parsley should be carefully washed. Steam, cold-dip and +dry. If the spinach is sliced the drying will be greatly facilitated. +Beet tops, Swiss chard and celery are prepared like spinach. + +Select sound, well-matured Irish potatoes. Wash and boil or steam +until nearly done. Peel and pass through a meat grinder or a potato +ricer. Collect the shred in layers on a tray and dry until brittle. If +toasted slightly in an oven when dry, the flavor is improved somewhat; +or boil or steam until nearly done, peel, cut into quarter-inch +slices, spread on trays, and dry until brittle. Peeling may be +omitted, but the product will be very much inferior in flavor. Irish +potatoes cannot be satisfactorily dried unless they are first cooked; +otherwise they will discolor. + +All root vegetables must be thoroughly cleaned, otherwise an earthy +flavor may cling to them. One decayed root may seriously affect +several pots of vegetable soup. + + +GENERAL SUGGESTIONS + +1. All vegetables should be completely dried in from two to +twenty-four hours. + +2. Materials should be turned or stirred several times to secure a +uniform product. + +3. If heat is used guard against scorching. The door is left open if +an oven is used; the temperature should be about 110 degrees at the +beginning and usually should not exceed 130 degrees. Onions, string +beans and peas will yellow at more than 140 degrees. + +4. A thermometer is essential to successful drying by artificial heat. + +5. It is impossible to give definite lengths of times for the +completion of sun drying, as this varies not only with different +products but with the weather. A sultry, rainy day is the worst for +drying. + +6. Vegetables should be stone dry. + +7. Succulent vegetables and fruits contain from 80 to 95 per cent of +water, and when dried sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per +cent; so it is a good plan to weigh before and after drying as a +check. The product should lose from two-thirds to four-fifths of its +weight. + +8. Work rapidly to prevent souring of vegetables. + +9. Small vegetables, mature beans and peas and small onions may be +dried whole. Larger vegetables should be cut up so as to expose more +surface for drying. + +10. The slicing, cutting and shredding should be done before +blanching, with the exception of corn, which is cut from the cob after +blanching. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING VEGETABLES + + +[A] BLANCHING BY STEAM, TIME ON MINUTES + +[B] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° F. APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + +[C] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] + | | + ASPARAGUS |Wash and cut into pieces| 2 to 4 | 4 to 8 |12 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, | | | | + GREEN | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + STRING | and string | 3 to 10 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, WAX | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + | and string; cut into | | | + | pieces or dry whole | 3 to 10 | 2 to 4 | 5 to 8 + | | | | + BEETS | Leave skin on while |[1]20 to 30| 2½ to 3 |12 to 16 + | steaming | | | + BRUSSELS | | | | + SPROUTS |Divide into small pieces| 6 | 3 to 5 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CABBAGE |Remove all loose outside| | | + | leaves; split cabbage | | | + | and remove woody core; | 5 to 10 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | slice or shred | | | + | | | | + CARROTS | Wash; slice lengthwise | | | + | into pieces 1/8-inch | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | thick | | | + | | | | + CAULIFLOWER|Clean; divide into small| | | + | bunches | 6 | 2 to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERY | Wash carefully and | | | + | remove leaves; slice | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERIAC |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + CORN, SWEET| Blanch on cob. From 12 | | | + |ears of corn you should | | | + | obtain 1 pound dried | 15 | 3 to 4 | 2 days + | corn | | | + | | | | + KOHL-RABI |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 2½ to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LEEKS | Cut into ½-inch strips | 5 | 2½ to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (YOUNG) | Shell | 2 to 5 | 3 to 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (OLD) | Shell | 5 to 10 | 3 to 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + MUSHROOMS | Wash; cut into pieces | 5 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | | | | + OKRA | Dry young pods whole. | | | + | Cut old pods in ¼-inch | 3 | 2 to 3 |12 to 20 + | slices | | | + | | | | + ONIONS | Remove outside papery | | | + | covering; cut off tops | | | + | and roots; slice thin | 5 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + PARSNIPS | Clean; pare; cut into | | | + | ½-inch slices | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + PEAS | Can be dried whole or | | | + | put through grinder | 3 to 5 | 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + PEPPERS |Skin blistered in oven, | | | + |steamed or sun-withered | .. | 3 to 4 | 24 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and rice them | .. | 2½ | 5 to 6 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and slice them | | | + | ¼-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and rice them | .. | 2½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and slice them | | | + | ¼-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + PUMPKINS | | | | + AND SQUASH | Cut into 1/3-inch | | | + | strips; peel; remove | 3 | 3 to 4 | 16 + | seeds | | | + | | | | + SPINACH |Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + SALSIFY | Wash; cut into ½-inch | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | slices | | | + | + SWISS CHARD|Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 18 + | | | | + TOMATOES | Wash; slice after | | | + |steaming to loosen skin | 2 to 3 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + TURNIPS | Pare and slice thin | 5 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + +[Footnote 1: Till skin cracks.] + +In a properly constructed sun drier vegetables will dry in from 3 to +12 hours under normal summer conditions. Products dried in a sun drier +are superior to those dried in the open without any protection. +Products dry more quickly in high altitudes than at sea level. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + +We have learned how to preserve fruit and vegetables by canning and +drying and now we are going to learn another method to preserve foods, +in which salt is used. We use this salt method for vegetables. It is +not adapted to fruits. We may pickle apples, pears and peaches, but we +ferment, brine and dry-salt only vegetables. + +This salt method is not a substitute for drying or canning, but just +an additional method we may employ. Every thrifty housewife of to-day +wants her shelves of canned foods, her boxes of dried foods and her +crocks of salted foods. Each kind has its proper function to perform +in the household. One cannot take the place of the other. + +For women on the farm salting is a salvation. In busy seasons when +canning and drying seem an impossibility, a great many vegetables can +be saved by this method in a very short time. The labor required is +very small, as no cooking is necessary. A good supply of salt is the +one necessity. + +Besides the saving of time, salting saves jars, which are absolutely +necessary in canning. Old containers can be used if they are +thoroughly cleansed. The vegetables can be put in any container, so +long as it holds water and is not made of metal. Metal containers +should not be used. Old kegs, butter and lard tubs if water-tight, +stoneware jars or crocks, chipped preserve jars, glass jars with +missing covers and covered enamel buckets can all be utilized. Avoid +using tubs made of pitch or soft pine unless coated with melted +paraffin, as they impart a flavor to the vegetables. Maple is the +best. + + +THREE METHODS OF SALTING FOOD + +There are three ways of preserving food by salting: First, +fermentation with dry salting; second, fermentation in brine or +brining; and third, salting without fermentation, or dry salting. + +Dry Salting. Fermentation with dry salting consists in packing the +material with a small amount of salt. No water is used, for the salt +will extract the water from the vegetables and this forms a brine. +This is the simplest process of all three and is used mostly for +cabbage. To make sauerkraut proceed as follows: The outside green +leaves of the cabbage should be removed, just as in preparing the head +for boiling. Never use any decayed or bruised leaves. Quarter the +heads and shred the cabbage very finely. There are shredding machines +on the market, but if one is not available use a slaw cutter or a +large sharp knife. + +After the cabbage is shredded pack at once into a clean barrel, keg or +tub, or into an earthenware crock holding four or five gallons. The +smaller containers are recommended for household use. When packing +distribute the salt as uniformly as possible, using one pound of salt +to forty pounds of cabbage. Sprinkle a little salt in the container +and put in a layer of three or four inches of shredded cabbage, then +pack down with a wooden utensil like a potato masher. Repeat with +salt, cabbage and packing until the container is full or the shredded +cabbage is all used. + +Press the cabbage down as tightly as possible and apply a cloth, and +then a glazed plate or a board cover which will go inside the holder. +If using a wooden cover select wood free from pitch, such as basswood. +On top of this cover place stone, bricks or other weights--use flint +or granite; avoid the use of limestone, sandstone or marble. These +weights serve to keep vegetables beneath the surface of the liquid. +The proportion of salt to food when fermenting with dry salt is a +quarter pound of salt to ten pounds of food. Do not use more, for the +product will taste too salty. + +Allow fermentation to proceed for ten days or two weeks, if the room +is warm. In a cellar or other cool place three to five weeks may be +required. Skim off the film which forms when fermentation starts and +repeat this daily if necessary to keep this film from becoming a scum. +When gas bubbles cease to rise when you strike the side of the +container, fermentation is complete. If there is a scum it should be +removed. + +As a final step pour very hot melted paraffin over the brine until it +forms a layer from a quarter to a half-inch thick, to prevent the +formation of the scum which occurs if the weather is warm or the +storage place is not well cooled. The cabbage may be used as soon as +the bubbles cease to rise. If scum forms and remains the cabbage will +spoil. You may can the cabbage as soon as bubbles cease to rise and +fermentation is complete. To can, fill jars, adjust rubbers and partly +seal. Sterilize 120 minutes in hot-water bath, or 60 minutes in +steam-pressure outfit at five to ten pounds pressure. + +The vital factor in preserving the material by this method is the +lactic acid which develops in fermentation. + +If the vegetables are covered with a very strong brine or are packed +with a fairly large amount of salt, lactic acid fermentation and also +the growth of other forms of bacteria and molds are prevented. This +method of preservation is especially applicable to those vegetables +which contain so little sugar that sufficient lactic acid cannot be +formed by bacterial action to insure their preservation. + +In the well-known method of vinegar pickling the acetic acid of the +vinegar acts as a preservative like the lactic acid produced by +fermentation. Sometimes brining precedes pickling in vinegar, and +often the pickling is modified by the addition of sugar and spices, +which add flavor as well as helping to preserve the fruit or +vegetables. In some cases olive oil or some other table oil is added +to the vinegar, as in the making of oil cucumber pickles. + +Besides sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, greens, kale +and dandelions are adapted for fermentation with dry salting. String +beans should be young, tender and not overgrown. Remove the tip ends +and strings; cut or break into pieces about two inches long. Wash the +beet and turnip tops as well as all greens, in order to remove dirt +and grit. Weigh all products that are to be salted. + +For salting, a supply of ordinary fine salt, which can be purchased in +bulk for about two cents a pound, is most satisfactory for general +use. Table salt will do very well, but it is rather expensive if large +quantities of vegetables are to be preserved. The rather coarse +salt--known in the trade as "ground alum salt"--which is used in +freezing ice cream can be used. Rock salt because of its coarseness +and impurities should not be used. + +A weight must be used. The size of the weight depends on the quantity +of material being preserved. For a five-gallon keg a weight of ten +pounds will be sufficient, but if a larger barrel is used a heavier +weight will be needed. The weight should be sufficient to extract the +juices to form a brine, which will cover the top in about twenty-four +hours. If a brine does not form it may be necessary to add more stones +after the material has stood a while. + +There always will be more or less bubbling and foaming of the brine +during the first stages of fermentation. After this ceases a thin film +will appear which will rapidly spread over the whole surface and +quickly develop into a heavy, folded membrane. This scum is a growth +of yeast-like organisms which feed upon the acid formed by +fermentation. If allowed to grow undisturbed it will eventually +destroy all the acid and the fermented material will spoil. To prevent +mold from forming it is necessary to exclude the air from the surface +of the brine. + +Perhaps the best method is to cover the surface--over the board and +round the weight--with very hot, melted paraffin. If the paraffin is +hot enough to make the brine boil when poured in, the paraffin will +form a smooth, even layer before hardening. Upon solidifying, it forms +an air-tight seal. Oils, such as cottonseed oil or the tasteless +liquid petroleum, may also be used for this purpose. As a measure of +safety with crocks, it is advisable to cover the top with a cloth +soaked in melted paraffin. Put the cover in place before the paraffin +hardens. + +After sealing with paraffin the containers should be set where they +will not be disturbed until the contents are to be used. Any attempt +to remove them from one place to another may break the paraffin seal +and necessitate resealing. + +Some vegetables which do not contain sufficient water are better +fermented by covering them with a weak brine. Those which are the most +satisfactory when fermented in this way are cucumbers, string beans, +green tomatoes, beets, beet tops, turnip tops, corn and green peas. +The general directions for this brining are as follows: + +Wash the vegetables, drain off the surplus water and pack them in a +keg, crock, or other utensil until it is nearly full--within about +three inches of the top of the vessel. Prepare a weak brine as +follows: To each gallon of water used add one-half pint of vinegar and +three-fourths of a cup of salt and stir until the salt is entirely +dissolved. The vinegar is used primarily to keep down the growth of +injurious bacteria until the lactic-acid ferment starts, but it also +adds to the flavor. Spices may be added if desired. + +The amount of brine necessary to cover the vegetables will be equal to +about one-half the volume of the material to be fermented. For +example, if a five-gallon keg is to be packed, two and one-half +gallons will be needed. It is best to make up at one time all the +brine needed on one day. A clean tub or barrel can be used for mixing +the brine. Pour the brine over the vegetables and cover. Set the +vessel and its contents away in a moderately warm room to ferment. + +When fermentation ceases, the container should be placed in a cool +cellar or storeroom and the surface of the liquid treated to prevent +mold. Before adding the paraffin or cottonseed oil, any scum or mold +which may have formed on the surface of the liquid should be removed +by skimming. + +These general directions can always be followed with successful +results, but some modifications are desirable for certain vegetables. + +Cucumbers--Dill Style. To pickle cucumbers wash the cucumbers and +pack into a clean, water-tight barrel, keg or crock. On the bottom of +the barrel place a layer of dill weed and a handful of mixed spice. +Add another layer of dill and another handful of spice when the barrel +is half full, and when almost full, add a third layer. If a keg or +crock is used, the amount of dill and spice can be reduced in +proportion to the size of the receptacle. When the container has been +filled to within a few inches of the top, add a layer of covering +material--beet leaves or grape leaves--about an inch thick. If any +spoilage should occur on the surface, this layer will protect the +vegetables beneath. Press down with a clean board weighted with bricks +or stone. + +Make the brine as given in the general rules. Add sufficient brine to +cover the material and allow it to stand twenty-four hours. Then make +air-tight. The time necessary for complete fermentation to occur +depends upon the temperature. In a warm place five days to a week may +suffice; in a cool cellar three to four weeks. + +The dill and spices may be omitted, in which case we then have plain +cucumbers. + +String Beans. Remove the ends and strings from the beans and cut +into pieces about two inches long; pack in the container; cover with +brine and ferment. + +Green Tomatoes. Green tomatoes should be packed whole and prepared +as cucumbers. The dill and spice may be added if desired. + +Beets. Beets must be scrubbed thoroughly and packed whole. If peeled +or sliced before being fermented the beets lose considerable color and +flavor. + +Beet Tops and Turnip Tops. These should be washed thoroughly and +packed into the container without being cut up. + +Peas. Green peas should be shelled and packed in the same way as +string beans. It is advisable to use fairly small containers for peas, +so that the quantity opened up will be used before it has a chance to +spoil. + +Corn. Husk and clean the silk from the corn; wash and place the ears +on end in the jar, packing the jar nearly full. Pour the brine over +the ears; add cover and weights. Fermented corn has a sour taste, +which may not be relished if the corn is eaten alone. For this reason +it will be preferable in most cases to preserve corn by canning, +drying or by salting without fermentation. Fermented corn, however, +may be used in the preparation of some dishes, such as chowders, +omelets, and so forth, where its flavor will be masked to some extent +by the other ingredients. To some people this peculiar acid taste of +fermented corn is not at all objectionable. + +Salting Without Fermentation. In this method the vegetables are +packed with enough salt to prevent fermentation or the growth of +yeasts or molds. The vegetables preserved most satisfactorily by this +method are dandelions, beet tops, turnip tops, spinach, kale, chard, +cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, green peas and corn. The following +directions should be followed: + +The vegetables should be washed, drained and weighed. The amount of +salt needed will be a quarter of the weight of the vegetables. Kegs or +crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a layer of vegetables about +an inch thick on the bottom of the container. Cover this with salt. +Continue making alternate layers of vegetables and salt until the +container is almost filled. The salt should be evenly distributed so +that it will not be necessary to use more salt than the quantity +required in proportion to the weights of the vegetables that are used. + +Cover the surface with a cloth, and a board of glazed plate. Place a +weight on these and set aside in a cool place. If sufficient liquor to +cover the vegetables has not been extracted pour in enough strong +brine--one pound of salt to two quarts of water--to cover the surface +round the corner. + +The top layer of vegetables should be kept under the brine to prevent +molding. There will be some bubbling at first. As soon as this stops, +set the container where it will not be disturbed until ready for use. +Seal by pouring very hot paraffin over the surface. + +String beans should be cut in two-inch pieces. Peas should be shelled. +Cabbage should be shredded in the same way as for sauerkraut. Corn, +however, requires somewhat different treatment, and the directions for +salting it are as follows: + +Salted Corn. Husk the ears of corn and remove the silk. Cook in +boiling water for about ten minutes to set the milk. Cut off the corn +from the cob with a sharp knife. Weigh the corn and pack in layers +with a quarter its weight of fine salt, as described above. + +Some experts insist on blanching and cold-dipping all vegetables for +dry-salting without fermentation. They say that, though it is not +necessary, it makes the tissues softer and consequently they are more +easily penetrated by the salt. Furthermore, when preparing these +products for the table the salt soaks out more readily and the +products cook much more quickly if they have been blanched. So where +there is time it seems advisable to blanch for five minutes for +dry-salting. + +If properly prepared and stored, fermented, brined and dry-salted +products will keep for a long time. It is absolutely necessary to +prevent mold from growing on the surface of the brine of fermented +vegetables, by the addition of paraffin or in some other way. +Protection of the surface of dry-salted vegetables is desirable, but +not necessary if the containers are covered to prevent the evaporation +of the brine. Most trouble with the fermented or salted products may +be traced to carelessness in protecting the surface of the brine. + + +POINTS TO REMEMBER + +These are the special things to remember about fermentation, brining +and dry-salting: + +1. For fermentation, such as in making sauerkraut, use a quarter pound +of salt to ten pounds of food material. For every 100 pounds of food +add two and a half pounds of salt. + +2. For brining use three-quarters of a cupful of salt and one cupful +of vinegar to each gallon of water. + +3. For dry-salting use one pound of salt to four pounds of food. + +4. Do not use vinegar, pickle or pork barrels as containers for salted +foods unless they are very thoroughly scalded. + +5. Thoroughly scald all containers, covers, weights and cloths before +using. + +6. If using glass jars put a cork inside to press the food down. If +white vaseline is rubbed on the rubber rings the solution will not get +through rubber and be lost. + +7. After adding salt or brine for fermented foods, cover the food +material with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth six inches larger in +diameter than the diameter of the container. Tuck this in round the +top of the food, cover with weight and adjust lid of container. + +8. During fermentation keep the cover on loosely until all bubbles +cease. Test by slightly knocking container to see if any bubbles +appear on the surface. + +9. When you have made this test and discovered that the bubbling has +ceased, then it is time to protect the food from all organisms which +destroy lactic acid. + +10. To protect the food cover with hot melted paraffin or liquid oil. + +11. If evaporation takes place, add water or brine to make up the +original amount of water. + +12. When dry sealing is used let the product stand twenty-four to +thirty-six hours, then add strong brine to fill the containers. The +water from the vegetables usually only half fills the containers. + +TABLE FOR PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY SALT + + + METHODS |VEGETABLES ADAPTED| AMOUNT OF SALT | OTHER + | TO METHOD | | INGREDIENTS + | | | NEEDED + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + I. Dry |Cabbage, which is |¼-lb. salt to 10 | No other. + salting with |converted by this | lbs. food or 2½ | + fermentation.| method into |lbs. salt to 100 | + |sauerkraut, string| lbs. food. | + |beans, beet tops, | | + | turnip tops, | | + | greens, kale and | | + | dandelions. | | + | | | + II. |Cucumbers, string | ¾-cup salt, 1 |Dill and spices + Fermentation | beans, green | gallon water, 1 |can be added. 1 + with brine. | tomatoes, beets, | cup vinegar for |lb. dry dill or + | beet tops, corn |brine. Amount of | 2 lbs. green + | and green peas. |brine required is| dill and 1 oz. + | |equal to ½ volume| spices for a + | | of food. |4-gallon crock. + | | | + III. Dry | Dandelions, beet | 25 lbs. salt to | Blanch and + salting |tops, turnip tops,|100 lbs. of food.| cold-dip + without | spinach, kale, |Salt should be ¼ | vegetables for + fermentation.| chard, cabbage, | weight of | five minutes + | cauliflower, | vegetable. | before dry + | string beans, | | salting. + | green peas, and | | + | corn. | | + | | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + +Many farmers seem to have more trouble with the curing of meats than +with the slaughtering. This part of the work is indeed very important +as it determines whether one will have good tasting cured meat or meat +that is too salty or possibly that is far removed from the original +taste of the raw product. + +It is worth every farmer or farmerette's attention to spend some time +on this problem as it pays so well in the resulting, good tasting +meat. Why not have a superior grade of home-cured meat as easily as a +poor grade? Work carefully and accurately done will produce good +results while work slovenly or carelessly done can produce nothing but +poor results. To cure meat so that it is not only delicious but has +good keeping qualities is an art and accomplishment worth striving +for. A pride in this work is just as fine and worth while as the +housewife's pride in her culinary skill or the pride of any other +professional in his or her line of work. To-day we are thinking of +food and its problems as never before and it behooves us all to put +more time, thought, care and skill on all things that pertain to +foods. And as meat is such an essential item in our diet, meat +problems should receive their due attention. + +All meat that is to be cured should always be thoroughly cooled and +cut into the desired convenient sizes before it is put into the brine +or packed in dry salt. + +The pieces most commonly used for curing are the ham, shoulder and +bacon pieces from pork. From beef we use the cheaper, tougher cuts +such as the plate, shoulder and chuck ribs. Mutton is seldom cured and +preserved. + +The ham should be cut off at the hock joint, the spare ribs taken out +of the bacon, and the ragged edges trimmed off smooth. If ragged edges +or scraggy ends are left these portions will become too dry in the +curing and will practically be wasted. + +After all the animal heat is removed from the meat and it is properly +cut it is then ready for the curing. If salt is put on the meat before +the animal heat is all removed, it will have a tendency to shrink the +muscles and form a coating on the outside which will not allow the +generating gases to escape. Meat should never be in a frozen condition +when the salt is added as the frost will prevent the proper +penetration of the brine and uneven curing will be the result. + + +METHODS OF CURING MEAT + +The two most common methods of curing meat are first the brine or +sugar cure process and second the dry-curing process. For general farm +use the brine cured process is the better. It requires less time, less +effort and not such an exacting place for the work. On most farms it +is impossible to secure a desirable place in which to do the +dry-curing as the meat is exposed to rats, cats, flies and other +insects. The dry-curing requires considerable time to rub and salt the +meat at different times while the only attention that is necessary for +brine-curing is to properly prepare and pack the meat in the vessel +and prepare the brine for it. + + +UTENSILS FOR CURING + +If possible use a round container for the curing. It is easier to put +the meat in tightly, and the space can be used to better advantage. A +hardwood barrel of some kind is excellent. Sirup, molasses or lard +barrels which have been thoroughly cleaned are very satisfactory. If +you use a vinegar or an oil barrel it should be well burned on the +inside before using. Stone crocks or jars are sometimes used but they +are expensive and cumbersome to handle besides the constant danger of +loss of brine from breakage. + + +PRESERVATIVES + +For curing the meat the farmer usually uses salt, salt peter, white or +brown sugar or molasses. These are the necessary preservatives. The +others such as boracic acid, borax and soda are often used for +sweetening the brine and to keep it from spoiling but are not +absolutely essential. The salt extracts moisture and acts as a +preservative. The sugar or molasses imparts a nice flavor and has a +tendency to keep the muscle tissue soft in contrast to the salt, which +has a tendency to make it hard and dry. So the salt and sugar have two +distinct functions to perform, the one to harden and preserve, the +other to soften and sweeten. If you have a favorite recipe that has +proved satisfactory and you want to use sorghum or molasses instead of +sugar add one pound more of the molasses. If you have been accustomed +to using 2 pounds of sugar then use 3 pounds of the other sweetening. + +Salt peter is not absolutely necessary as far as the preserving is +concerned but it helps to hold the red color of the lean meat. If salt +peter is not used the lean meat will be gray in color. It may possibly +be a little tenderer if the salt peter is not used as the salt peter +tends to harden the meat. Chili salt peter can be substituted in place +of salt peter, if only four-fifths as much is used. + + +THE SUGAR BRINE CURE + +All formulas for the sugar brine cure are practically the same varying +only a little in the proportions of sugar, salt and salt peter. If you +have a formula that you have tried for years and have found it to be +satisfactory there is no reason you should attempt a new one. But for +those who want to try a different formula or recipe I will give you +this reliable one that is widely used and indorsed by several +agricultural colleges. + +The container should be scalded thoroughly. Sprinkle a layer of salt +over the bottom and over each layer of meat as it is packed in, skin +down. When full, cover meat with boards and weight down with a stone +so that all will be below the brine, which is made as follows: + +Weigh out for each 100 pounds of meat, 8 pounds of salt, 2 pounds of +sugar (preferably brown) or 3 pounds of molasses, and 2 ounces of salt +peter. Dissolve all in 4 gallons of water. This should be boiled, and +when thoroughly cooled, cover the meat. Seven days after brine is put +on, meat should be repacked in another barrel in reverse order. The +pieces that were on top should be placed on the bottom. The brine is +poured over as before. This is repeated on the fourteenth and +twenty-first days, thus giving an even cure to all pieces. Bacon +should remain in the brine from four to six weeks, and hams six to +eight weeks, depending on the size of the pieces. When cured, each +piece should be scrubbed with tepid water and hung to drain several +days before smoking; no two pieces should come in contact. For all +curing always use dairy salt and _not table_ salt, as the latter +contains starch to keep it dry and this starch may cause the meat to +spoil. If you carefully follow these directions you will have +delicious sugar-cured hams and bacon. + + +CORNED BEEF + +It is desirable to have an ample supply of corned beef on hand. For +this any part of the beef may be used but the parts usually selected +are the plate, rump, cross-ribs and brisket, which are the tougher +cuts of the meat. The brisket and plate are especially good because of +the character of the fat, which is somewhat like a tissue. Cut all +around the meat to about the same thickness, so that it will make an +even layer in the barrel. It is best to remove the bone, although this +is not necessary. Be sure to start the pickling or curing while the +meat is perfectly fresh, but well chilled. Do not wait like some +farmers do until they think the meat is beginning to spoil and then +salt it down just to save it. Allow ten pounds of dairy salt to each +100 pounds of meat. Sprinkle a layer of the salt in the bottom of the +crock, barrel, or whatever container is used. Have the salt about +one-fourth of an inch in depth. After the layer is in the bottom of +the container put the cuts of meat in as closely as possible, making +the layer five or six inches in thickness, then put on another layer +of salt, following that with another layer of meat. Repeat until the +meat and salt have all been packed in the barrel, care being taken to +reserve salt enough for a good layer on the top. Cover the meat with a +board and weight down with a stone and _not_ an _iron_ weight. Do not +allow any meat to project from the salt or mold will start and the +brine will spoil in a short time. Let the meat stand over-night. + +Prepare a brine by boiling 7 pounds salt, 3 pounds brown sugar or 6 +pounds molasses, 2 ounces baking soda, 2 ounces salt peter and 4 +gallons water for every 100 pounds of meat. This quantity of brine +should be sufficient to cover that amount. + +Remove any scum that rises to the surface and filter the hot brine +through muslin. Set the brine aside, best over-night, to become +perfectly cold before using. In the morning tip the container in which +the meat is packed so that all liquor which has separated from the +meat over night may drain off. Cover the meat with the cold brine. Put +the container in a cool place. The curing will be more satisfactory if +the meat is left at a temperature of about 38 degrees F. Never let the +temperature go above 50 degrees F. and there is some risk with even a +temperature of 40 degrees F. if it is continuous. The sugar or +molasses in the brine has a tendency to ferment in a warm place. + +After about five days the meat should be overhauled and repacked, +putting the pieces which were previously on the bottom on top. Pour +back the same brine, and five days later repeat the overhauling. This +may seem like some trouble and possibly look like a useless waste of +time but it is well worth while as it insures a more rapid and uniform +curing of the meat. + +When unpacking the meat watch the brine to see that it is not ropy or +moldy. If you find either condition existing remove the meat and rinse +each piece with cold water and after scalding the container pack the +meat as at first with a little salt. Scald and skim the brine and +after it is cold pour it on the meat as before. You can use corned +beef if necessary after a week in the cure, but it is not thoroughly +cured until it has been from 20 to 30 days in the brine. If kept for +sixty days it will be salty enough to need freshening before cooking. + +If the meat has been corned during the winter, and is to be kept until +summer, watch the brine closely during the spring as it is more likely +to spoil then than at any other time. + + +PLAIN SALT PORK + +Rub each piece of meat with dairy salt, and pack closely in a +container. Let stand over-night. The next day weigh out ten pounds of +salt and two ounces of salt peter for each 100 pounds of meat, and +dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. Pour this brine, when cold, +over the meat, cover, and weight the meat down to keep it under the +brine. The pork should be kept in the brine until used. + + +SMOKING CURED MEATS + +Of course many farmers never attempt to smoke their cured meats but +use them directly from the brine but if possible it is more +satisfactory to smoke them before using for several reasons. First, +the process of smoking helps to preserve the meat. The creosote formed +by the combustion of the wood closes the pores of the meat to a great +extent thus excluding the air and helping it to keep and at the same +time makes the meat objectionable to insects. In the second place, +pickled or cured meats taste better and are more palatable if smoked. +Of course the smoking must be properly done and the right kind of fuel +must be used. + +The Smokehouse and the Smoke. It is not necessary to have a regular +smokehouse--although it is a delightful addition to any farm. Here +again a community meat ring is of great advantage. One smokehouse will +answer for many families. This is the ideal arrangement and it can +easily be managed if you are progressive and anxious enough to supply +your family with delicious meat the year around saving time and money. + +If, however, you have to do your own smoking and smoke only a small +quantity at a time a barrel or box will answer. Overheating of the +meat must be guarded against. + +Green hickory or any of the hardwoods or maple should be used for the +smoking. Pine or any other resinous woods should not be used as they +give a disagreeable flavor to the meat. If it is impossible to get +hardwood use corncobs rather than soft wood. The corncobs will leave a +dirty deposit on the meat, which is carbon. It is not objectionable +only from the standpoint of "looks." The meat which you are going to +smoke should be removed from the brine the day before the smoking. A +half hour soaking in cold water prevents a crust of salt from forming +on the outside. Do not hang the meat so that any two pieces touch as +this would prevent uniform smoking. + +Always start with a slow fire so as to warm the meat up gradually. +Thirty-six to forty-eight hours of heat as near 120 degrees F. as +possible will be sufficient under most circumstances. + +How to Store Smoked Meats. A dry, cool cellar or attic where there +is good circulation is a good place for storage. If the meat is to be +used soon the meat can hang without coverings but for long keeping you +will have to wrap it when cold in waxed paper and then in burlap, +muslin or canvas bags and then hang it, after it is tied very tightly +to prevent insects from getting in, in a room with a cool uniform +temperature. + +Some farmers get satisfactory results by wrapping the meats in strong +bags and then burying them in oat bins. + + +SAUSAGE + +Frequently when animals are butchered on the farm there are often +wholesome portions of the carcass that are not used. All trimmings, +cheeks, liver, tongue, breast and other pieces can be made into +bologna, headcheese or some other form of sausage. Sausage making is +an art worth acquiring. There is always a good demand for fresh and +smoked country sausage, so if you wish to sell some you will have no +trouble in finding a market for your product if it is a good one. + +To make sausage you should have a meat grinder, which is an absolute +essential on every farm. If you do not have one already then buy a No. +22 or No. 32. + +In addition to the grinder you will need a stuffer attachment which +costs very little. A knife, cord, string, a clean tube and casings or +muslin bags will complete your equipment. The muslin bags can be of +any size but the easiest to handle are 12 inches long and 2 inches in +diameter. If the sausage is stuffed into these bags they must be +paraffined for home use. If you do not want to bother with casings or +bags put the sausage in stone crocks or tin pans with a layer of lard +or paraffin on top. + +The best sausage is made by using 3 parts of lean meat to one of fat. +When using the grinder, distribute the lean and fat meat as uniformly +as possible. + +You are not necessarily limited to pork sausage, for there are many +other delicious varieties you can make. They vary in the different +kinds of meat used and in the different seasonings and spices. + +Breakfast sausage has bread added to it; frankfurters are smoked pork +sausage in casings; liver sausage has pork and beef or veal and bread +in it; and blood sausage, as its name suggests, has blood (preferably +from a hog) added to it. Then there is tomato sausage which is made of +pulp from fresh tomatoes, pork sausage and crackers. Summer sausage is +made in the winter and kept for use during the summer. After being +dried and cured it will keep for months. Brain sausage is delicious. +To make it calves' brains are mixed with lean pork. Cambridge sausage +has rice added to it. + +Headcheese is usually made from the hog's head but odds and ends also +can be used not only from pork but from beef and veal. + +Scrapple usually means the head and feet of hogs but it can be made +from any hog meat. It is a good food as it uses cornmeal. It makes a +change from fried mush and most men working on a farm relish it. + +Sausage can be made from mutton mixed with pork in much the same way +as beef is used for similar purposes. A general formula would be 2 +parts of mutton to 3 parts pork with seasonings. + +With a plentiful supply of good home-cured and home-smoked meats, +together with several varieties of sausages, you can feel you are well +equipped to feed your family with its share of meat. Everything will +have been utilized, nothing will have been wasted. You produced your +own meat, you slaughtered and cured and smoked it and put all +trimmings and other "left-overs" into appetizing food for your family +and you have saved money. You have utilized things at hand and +required no transportation facilities. And best of all, you have the +very finest in the land for your family and that gives one a perfectly +justifiable pride in the work accomplished. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + +As one-half of the yearly egg crop is produced in March, April, May +and June consumers would do well to store enough at that time to use +when production is light. Fifty dozen eggs should be stored for a +family of five to use during the months of October, November, December +and January, at which time the market price of eggs is at the highest. + +When canning them _the eggs must be fresh_, preferably not more than +two or three days old. This is the reason why it is much more +satisfactory to put away eggs produced in one's own chicken yard or +one's neighbor's. + +Infertile eggs are best if they can be obtained--so, after the +hatching exclude the roosters from the flock and kill them for table +use as needed. + +_The shells must be clean._ Washing an egg with a soiled shell lessens +its keeping quality. The protective gelatinous covering over the shell +is removed by water and when this is gone the egg spoils more rapidly. +Use the soiled eggs for immediate use and the clean ones for storage. + +_The shells also must be free from even the tiniest crack._ One +cracked egg will spoil a large number of sound eggs when packed in +water glass. + +Earthenware crocks are good containers. _The crocks must be clean and +sound._ Scald them and let them cool completely before use. A crock +holding six gallons will accommodate eighteen dozen eggs and about +twenty-two pints of solution. Too large crocks are not desirable, +since they increase the liability of breaking some of the eggs, and +spoiling the entire batch. + +It must be remembered that the eggs on the bottom crack first and that +those in the bottom of the crock are the last to be removed for use. +Eggs can be put up in smaller crocks and the eggs put in the crock +first should be used first in the household. + + +METHOD OF STORING + +There are many satisfactory methods of storing eggs. The commercial +method is that of cold storage and if it were not for this method +winter eggs would be beyond the average purse. + +The fact that eggs have been held in cold storage does not necessarily +mean that they are of low quality. Carefully handled cold-storage eggs +often are of better quality than fresh local eggs that have been +improperly cared for. + +In the home they may be packed by several methods: Salt, oats or bran; +covering them with vaseline, butter, lard, paraffin or prepared +ointments; immersion in brine, salicylic acid, water glass (sodium +silicate) or limewater. + +Any of these methods will keep the eggs for short periods if stored in +a cool place. The salt, oats and bran are very satisfactory. The +ointments also are satisfactory. The water glass and limewater will +keep eggs without loss for a year. However, it is not wise to put down +more eggs than is necessary to tide over the period of high price. + + +WATER GLASS METHOD + +"Water glass" is known to the chemist as sodium silicate. It can be +purchased by the quart from druggists or poultry supply men. It is a +pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It is diluted in the proportion +of one part of silicate to nine parts of distilled water, rain water, +or other water. _In any case, the water should be boiled and then +allowed to cool._ Half fill the vessel with this solution and place +the eggs in it, being careful not to crack them. The eggs can be added +a few at a time until the container is filled. Be sure to keep about +two inches of water glass above the eggs. Cover the crock to prevent +evaporation and place it in the coolest place available from which the +crock will not have to be moved. Wax paper covered over and tied +around the top of the crock can be used. Inspect the crock from time +to time and replace any water that has evaporated with cool boiled +water. + + +LIMEWATER METHOD + +Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is slightly +less expensive than water glass. A solution is made by placing two or +three pounds of unslaked lime in five gallons of water, which has been +boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the mixture to stand until +the lime settles and the liquid is clear. The eggs should be placed in +a clean earthenware jar or other suitable vessel and covered to a +depth of two inches with the liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse +in clean, cold water and use immediately. + +If using the limewater method add a little of the lime sediment to +insure a constantly saturated solution. If a thin white crust appears +on the limewater solution it is due to the formation of calcium +carbonate coming in contact with the air and consequently does no +harm. + + +CANDLING EGGS AT HOME + +If you purchase the eggs that are to be stored it is safer to candle +them. Examining eggs to determine their quality is called "candling." +Every one knows that some eggs are better than others, but the ease +with which the good ones can be picked out is not generally +understood. The better the quality of eggs, the surer the housewife +can be that they will keep satisfactorily. + + +HOMEMADE CANDLER + +The equipment for candling usually consists of either a wooden, a +metal, or a cardboard box and a kerosene lamp or an electric light. A +very inexpensive egg candler for home use can be made from a large +shoe-box or similar cardboard box. Remove the ends of the box, and cut +a hole about the size of a half-dollar in one side. Slip the box over +the lamp or electric bulb, darken the room, hold the egg, with the +large end up, before the opening in the box and its quality can easily +be judged. + + +SIGNS OF A GOOD EGG + +When held before the opening of the candle, good eggs will look clear +and firm. The air cell (the white spot at the large end of the eggs) +should be small, not larger than a dime, and the yolk may be dimly +seen in the center of the egg. A large air cell and a dark, freely +moving yolk indicate that the egg is stale. + +If the shell contents appear black or very dark, the egg is +absolutely unfit for food. If you are in doubt about the quality of +any eggs you are candling break a few of them into a dish and examine +them. This is an excellent way to learn to know how good and bad eggs +look when they are being candled. + +Discard all eggs that have shrunken, loose contents, a watery +appearance, cracked and thin shells. Eggs of this description will not +keep and are apt to spoil the eggs close around them. Any egg that +floats in the solution should be discarded. + +When packing eggs whether in salt, oats, or in solution place them +with small end down. When packing them in salt, oats, etc., do not +allow any two eggs to touch. + + +PACKING THE EGGS + +One gallon of water glass as purchased will make enough preservative +to preserve from 75 to 100 dozen eggs. + +Three gallons of either water glass solution or limewater solution +will preserve from 200 to 240 dozen eggs according to the size of the +eggs and the shape of the container. + +The cost of preserving eggs by the water glass method is about one +cent per dozen eggs, not considering the cost of the container. The +lime water method is still cheaper. + +The following gives the sizes of jars with approximate capacity for +eggs and the amount of water glass solution required to cover the +eggs: + +1 gallon jar--40 eggs, 3½ pints of solution or 1¾ qt. + +2 gallon jar--80 eggs, 8 pints of solution or 2 quarts. + +3 gallon jar--120 eggs, 11 pints of solution or 5½ quarts. + +4 gallon jar--160 eggs, 14½ pints of solution or 7¼ quarts. + +5 gallon jar--200 eggs, 18 pints of solution or 9 quarts. + +6 gallon jar--216 eggs, 22 pints of solution or 11 quarts. + +10 gallon jar--400 eggs, 36 pints of solution or 18 quarts. + + +HOW TO USE PRESERVED EGGS + +When the eggs are to be used, remove them as desired, rinse in clean, +cold water, and use immediately. + +Eggs preserved in water glass can be used for soft boiling or poaching +up to November. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole in the +large end of the shell with a needle to keep them from cracking, as +the preservative seals the pores of the shell and prevents the escape +of gases, which is possible in the strictly fresh egg. + +They are satisfactory for frying until about December. From that time +until the end of the usual storage period--that is until March--they +can be used for omelettes, scrambled eggs, custards, cakes and general +cookery. As the eggs age, the white becomes thinner and is harder to +beat. The yolk membrane becomes more delicate and it is +correspondingly difficult to separate the whites from the yolks. +Sometimes the white of the egg is tinged pink after very long keeping +in water glass. This is due, probably, to a little iron which is in +the sodium silicate, but which apparently does not injure the eggs for +food purposes. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + +Towards the end of the canning season most housewives have used every +available glass jar and tin can and hesitate about purchasing a new +supply. They have dried and brined many products and yet they feel, +and rightly so, that they would like still more vegetables for winter +use. There still remains another method that they may employ to +provide themselves with a plentiful supply of vegetables and these +vegetables can be in the fresh state too. Neither canned, dried, +pickled or salted but fresh. + +Canning, drying, pickling and salting are essential and necessary but +they can not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in their +natural state is the easiest and simplest form of food preservation. +Of course, you must take proper precautions against freezing and +decay. If you do this you can have an abundant supply of many kinds of +fresh vegetables all winter, where climatic and living conditions will +permit. Storage costs but little money and little effort and yet it is +very satisfactory. + +There are many vegetables that can be stored to good advantage. They +are: Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Beans, Celery, Carrots, Chicory or +Endive, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Lima Beans, Onions, Sweet +Potatoes, Squash (Winter), Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, Tomatoes, +Turnips. + +To get good results in any kind of storage, you must observe four +things: + + 1. Proper ventilation. + 2. Proper regulation of temperature. + 3. Sufficient moisture. + 4. Good condition of vegetables when stored. + +There are six different ways to store vegetables. They are: cellar +storage, pit storage, outdoor cellar or cave storage, attic storage, +sand boxes and pantry storage. + + +CELLAR STORAGE + +We will first of all consider cellar or basement storage. One of the +most convenient places for the storage of vegetables is a cool, +well-ventilated and reasonably dry cellar underneath the house. This +cellar must have windows or some method of ventilation, must not be +too warm and not so cold that food will freeze. If there is proper +ventilation there can be some dampness without injury to the +vegetables. If your cellar or basement floods easily or has water +standing in it anywhere it should not be used for vegetable storage. + +If there is a furnace in the cellar or basement a small room as far as +possible from the heating plant should be partitioned off. Do not +build a room in the middle of the cellar, for two sides of the room +should consist of outside walls. + +If possible have two outside windows for proper regulation of the +temperature and for good ventilation. If you cannot have two windows +have one. + +A very good arrangement for constant circulation of air consists in +having a stove-pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of the +window to admit cold air. One of the upper panes of the window can be +removed to allow for the escape of warm air. That is, of course, if +the window is made of nine or twelve small panes of squares of glass. +In severely cold weather this upper pane can be replaced or the +opening stuffed up in some way. + +If you do not have an old stove-pipe you can make a wooden flue of old +boards or old discarded boxes. + +Most cellars and basements are now made with concrete floors. The +ideal floor for storage purposes is an earth floor. However, we can +put two or three inches of sand on our concrete floors and get good +results. Sprinkle the sand with water from time to time. + +Put the vegetables that are to be stored in boxes, baskets, barrels or +crates. Use containers that hold only two or three bushels apiece. If +larger boxes or barrels are used there is always danger of heating and +decay. Of course, proper precautions should be taken against mice. + +An excellent way to prevent wilting of crops and shrinkage is to put +moist leaves, oak or maple, in the containers with the vegetables. +Moist sand is sometimes used but it is much heavier to handle than the +leaves. It is no difficult matter to rake the lawn when you are ready +to store the vegetables. + +The vegetables that are adapted for cellar storage are beets, cabbage, +carrots, celery, parsnips, potatoes, salsify and turnips. + + +PIT STORAGE + +There are two kinds of pits that may be used for storage. Those that +are not frost-proof and those which are frost-proof. + +Some vegetables are not injured by being held in a frozen condition +during the winter months. Cabbage is not injured by moderate frost. +Cabbage and parsnips will stand freezing and a little thawing, so they +can be put in pits or better still, boxes or barrels set into the +ground may be used. Make the pit mound shaped. If the earth is mounded +around the box, barrel or pit, surface water cannot run in. + +If using this kind of storage do not store the products until both the +ground and the products are frozen solid. The idea is to keep the +vegetables frozen or to have very few freezings and thawings, and +those few should be gradual. + +After the pit has been made or the box or barrel has been set into the +ground and filled with vegetables, it should be covered first with a +piece of burlap or carpet, then with a mouse-proof board cover and +finally with straw or similar material. When taken from the pit, the +vegetables can be thawed out over night in cold water, after which +they can be kept in the cellar for a short length of time. + +The pits for keeping vegetables free from frost must be carefully and +thoughtfully made, but they are cheap and are very useful and +practical when caves or cellars are not convenient. + +The frost-proof pit for storing vegetables should always be placed in +as well-drained a place as possible. A shallow excavation should be +made from one to two feet deep, four feet wide and as long as +desired. Line the pit with straw, hay or leaves, then place the +vegetables in a conical pile on the straw. Cover the vegetables with +six inches of the material used in making the lining. This is covered +with three or four inches of earth. The straw is allowed to extend up +through the earth at the top of the pile, thus assuring ventilation. + +When it becomes colder add more covering to the pit by another layer +of straw and a layer of earth. In very cold climates a layer of manure +or corn stalks will afford protection against frost. + +It is well to make several small pits rather than one larger one for +the reason that when a pit has once been opened it is difficult to +protect the remaining vegetables from frost. + +It is advisable to store several varieties of vegetables in one pit so +that when each pit is opened you have a variety of vegetables. If you +follow this plan separate the various crops by using straw or leaves. + +Pits are entered by chopping a hole through the frozen earth at one +end, large enough to reach into or crawl into. After the vegetables +have been obtained keep the hole stuffed and covered most carefully +and deeply with old sacks and straw. + +If the smaller pits are used, a decidedly better arrangement, take out +all the vegetables in the pit and those that are not needed for +immediate consumption can be placed in the cellar storage room, or +other cool place, until needed. Do not use those pits if you live +where winter rains are abundant as the pits will become water soaked +and the vegetables will suffer more or less decay. + + +OUTDOOR CELLAR STORAGE + +Outdoor cellars or caves may be cheaply built for more or less +temporary use or they may be very expensively built of concrete, +brick, or clay blocks. Of course, the latter are permanent storing +places and offer perfect storage for potatoes, carrots, cabbages, +parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify. + +The objectionable features of indoor cellar storage is that such +storage does not furnish ideal conditions for keeping the vegetables +fresh for any great length of time. + +The objectionable feature to the pit storage is the inaccessibility to +these pits during severe weather. + +The outdoor cellar or cave overcomes both these objections. The +outdoor cellar or cave is an underground structure, preferably built +in a hillside and fully covered with earth except at one end only +where the entrance is located. If there are doors at both ends it is +almost impossible to prevent freezing in very cold weather. The cave +door should fit perfectly and there should be a hatchway or door over +the steps leading down to the cave door. + +A very satisfactory inexpensive cellar can be made by digging an +excavation about 5 ft. deep and in this erecting a frame by setting +posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform +height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place rafters. +Board up completely with the exception of the entrance. Cover the +whole with dirt or sod and in cold climates add a layer of straw or +fodder. + +A ventilation must be provided in the roof at the back end. A sewer +tile with the bell end up makes a very good flue. A dirt floor is +satisfactory as it contains moisture. If there is any seepage use a +drain tile to carry it off. + +The more pretentious permanent cellars are provided with air spaces to +furnish insulation; are provided with large ventilation shafts through +the roof and cold air intakes under the floor. Thorough drainage is +obtained by placing a line of tile around the outside wall and also by +having the air intake serve as a drain for surplus water that might +get into the cave. The floor is cement or concrete. Such a cave is +expensive but is a permanent structure and a good addition to any farm +or estate. If properly made it is possible to maintain a temperature +of 34 to 38 degrees without much fluctuation during the winter months. +This kind of storage is not only adapted for vegetables but apples as +well. It is better adapted to the Northern, Eastern and Western States +than to the Southern States, where it is likely to be warm at the time +the vegetables are ready for storage. When making the cave, have it as +near as possible to the kitchen door. Sometimes caves are made so that +they can be entered from the house, cellar or porch. + + +ATTIC STORAGE + +Some vegetables such as onions, squashes, sweet potatoes and pumpkins +can be stored in the attic in crates which allow free circulation of +air. They must be absolutely free from bruises and must be well +ripened and cured. To cure the vegetables expose them to the air for a +few days in the shade. Remove the tops of onions before storing. The +attic is much better for storing onions than the basement. Squashes +are susceptible to cold and moisture, so are suitable for the attic. + +Be very careful in handling the squashes to prevent breaking the +stems off. Watch pumpkins and squash carefully and at the first sign +of decay, use immediately or can. + + +SAND BOX STORAGE + +Sand boxes in cellars, pits or caves are desirable for beets, turnips, +kohl-rabi, carrots, winter radishes and rutabagas. The sand keeps them +cold and prevents evaporation. Kohl-rabi should be tender when stored. + + +PANTRY STORAGE + +Where there is no attic or where it is inconveniently reached, the +products that are adapted to a very dry place can be stored on the +pantry shelves or in a dry cellar near the furnace. They are onions, +squashes, pumpkins and sweet potatoes. + +The keeping qualities of all these vegetables, no matter what storage +is used, depends chiefly upon their condition when placed in storage. +All products to be stored must be mature, but not overgrown. Root +crops should be dry while the ground is in good working condition. All +vegetables should be allowed to become surface dry before placing them +in storage. + +White or Irish potatoes, especially, should not be exposed to bright +sunlight any length of time. Only vegetables free from disease or +injury should be stored. Any that are damaged can be used immediately, +or can be canned or dried. + +Further particulars for the storing of fresh vegetables are given in +the following tables. + +TABLE FOR VEGETABLE STORAGE + +VEGETABLES + |HOW BEST STORED + | |PREPARATION FOR STORAGE + | | |AMOUNT FOR FAMILY OF TWO + | | | |REMARKS + | | | | +Irish Potatoes + |Must be kept cool with a slight degrees of moisture. Use + |either cellar or cave methods. No potato should be more than + |four ft. from air if stored in barrels, boxes, crates or + |bins. + | |Potatoes must be dug before the ground is crusted with + | |frost. Frosted potatoes will spoil, one after another. + | |Impossible to sort out frosted potatoes. + | | |10 to 15 bus. + | | | |Remember Irish potatoes are ruined by + | | | |freezing. Potatoes should be kept absolutely + | | | |dark to prevent greening by light. Never buy + | | | |potatoes in sacks that show wet places due to + | | | |a frosted potato. + | | | | +Sweet Potatoes + |Require warmth and dryness. In crates or on shelves in warm + |dry room. Can be spread on the floor in the room above the + |kitchen where they will have plenty of heat, especially for + |the first 2 or 3 weeks after they are dug. + | |When the sweet potatoes are dug they should be allowed + | |to lie in the sun and wind for 3 or 4 hours so as to + | |become perfectly dry. They must be well ripened and free + | |from bruises. Can be kept on shelves in a very dry place + | |and they need not be kept specially cold. Sweet potatoes + | |keep best when they are showing just a little + | |inclination to sprout. However, if they start growing + | |the quality is greatly injured. + | | |2 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you are in doubt as to whether the sweet + | | | |potatoes are matured enough for storage, cut + | | | |or break one end and expose it to the air for + | | | |a few minutes. If the surface of the cut or + | | | |break dries, the potato is mature. But if + | | | |moisture remains on the surface, it is not + | | | |fully ripened. In places where there are early + | | | |frosts, sweet potatoes should be dug about the + | | | |time the first frost is expected, without + | | | |considering maturity. + | | | | +Carrots + |Are best stored in sand in cellars, caves or pits; or in + |tightly covered boxes or crocks. Must be kept cold and + |evaporation must be prevented, for otherwise they become + |wilted. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool; then be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you store carrots in the cellar and it is + | | | |extremely dry cover them with a little + | | | |moistened sand. + | | | | +Celery + |May be rooted in earth in a cellar or cave and if watered + |occasionally will keep fresh until Christmas. The soil, earth + |or sand, in which the celery is set should be 2 or 3 inches + |deep. This soil must not be allowed to become dry. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool. + | | |5 dozen good plants or bunches. + | | | |Another way to store celery is to bank it to + | | | |the top with earth; cover the tops with + | | | |boards, straw, or leaves and allow it to + | | | |remain where it has grown until wanted for + | | | |use. Another way is to dig a trench 12 inches + | | | |wide and deep enough to correspond with the + | | | |height of the celery, then lift the celery and + | | | |pack it in this trench with some soil about + | | | |the roots. When the weather becomes colder, + | | | |cover the trench with boards nailed together + | | | |in the form of a _V_ shaped trough and over + | | | |this inverted trough put a layer of soil. The + | | | |ends of this trough should be left open for + | | | |ventilation until freezing sets in, then close + | | | |these openings with straw, old bags or soil. + | | | |If the freeze ceases and there is a spell of + | | | |warmer weather open the ends slightly for + | | | |ventilation. When the celery is first stored + | | | |in the trenches the soil about the roots of + | | | |the celery should be watered and and if the + | | | |weather is dry after the celery is put in the + | | | |trenches, pour some water around the roots to + | | | |keep the celery crisp and fresh. + | | | | +Cabbage + |Can be wrapped in paper with the outer leaves left on for + |immediate use and stored in ventilated barrels or large + |crates in the cellar. But as few cellars are cool enough to + |keep cabbage in good condition it is more advisable to store + |it in a long shallow pit in the garden. + | |Is not injured by moderate frost while in the pit but + | |should not be disturbed while frozen. The pit should be + | |long and narrow. Pull the cabbage, stem, root and all, + | |and then laid with heads down about 3 heads in width can + | |be placed in the pit. Cover lightly with soil and as the + | |weather becomes colder add a little more soil until + | |there is a layer 6 or 7 inches thick over the cabbage. + | |Keep the ends of the pit partially open for ventilation + | |until the weather becomes very cold. + | | |25 heads. + | | | |Late varieties of cabbage are the only ones + | | | |fit for storage. It is advisable to dig a + | | | |shallow ditch around the pit so that all + | | | |surplus water can be carried off. + | | | | +Chickory or Endive + |Store in a box or bed of moist sand in the cellar. Put roots + |in an upright position with the sand coming just to their + |tops. Water the sand occasionally. Sometimes a covering of + |straw is added to blanch the tender growth of shoots, which + |is the part used as food. + | |Late in the fall lift the roots out and carefully trim + | |off the leaves without injury to the heart. + | | |5 doz. roots. + | | | |Chickory or endive is grown the same as + | | | |carrots or salsify. It is useful in the winter + | | | |for it furnishes the needed green that is so + | | | |scarce in winter. + | | | | +Beets + |Must not be placed in too large piles in the cellar as they + |are inclined to mold. Can also be buried in pits in open + |ground. + | |Can remain in the ground until very cool weather; then + | |should be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored in + | |the cellar. + | | |1 bushel. + | | | |Beets are not so much inclined to shrivel as + | | | |carrots. + | | | | +Salsify or Vegetable Oyster + |Pack roots in box with moist sand in cellar or as they are + |not injured by remaining in the ground all winter they can be + |left there. Enough for immediate use may be dug in the autumn + |and the others dug as desired. + | |When stored in the cellar after the salsify is pulled, + | |trim off the tops and then stand them in an upright + | |position with the sand even with the tops. + | | |75 to 100 roots. + | | | |Is injured by too much freezing and thawing, + | | | |so should remain frozen. + | | | | +Parsnips + |Can be stored just as salsify or be allowed to remain in the + |ground until wanted. + | |Those that are to be stored in the cellar can remain in + | |in the garden until the weather is quite cool, then + | |prepare and store like salsify. + | | |1 bushel in the cellar and one in the garden. + | | | |Parsnips are best kept frozen or fresh in the + | | | |cellar as too much freezing and thawing + | | | |destroys them. + | | | | +Turnips + |Must be stored where temperature is low or sprouting will + |result. Moderate freezing does no harm while in the storage + |pit but they must not be disturbed while frozen. + | |Pull; cut tops off and store in sand in cellars or + | |caves, or in pits, or in tightly covered boxes or + | |crocks. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |The object is to keep them cold and prevent + | | | |evaporation. It is a good plan to store a + | | | |portion in the cellar so as to be available + | | | |during the time that those buried in the pit + | | | |are "frozen in" and not so easily accessible. + | | | | +Onions + |Require a cool dry place. Attic excellent. + | |Before storing, cure them by exposing to the air for a + | |few days in the shade. Dryness is absolutely essential. + | |A well cured onion should be firm and not readily dented + | |at the base of the tops by the tip of the thumb when + | |held in the hand. + | | |3 bushels. + | | | |Onions are best for storage if topped about 1½ + | | | |inches long. + | | | | +Cauliflower + |Planted in shallow boxes of soil in light place in the + |cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |Store as many as possible. + | | | |If kept well watered they will mature for + | | | |winter use. + | | | | +Brussels Sprouts + |Planted in soil in cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |According to family tastes. + | | | |Keep watered and will mature. + | | | | +Ground Cherries or Husk Tomatoes + |May be stored for some weeks in the husk in their layers in a + |dry place free from frost. + | +Kohl-rabi, Winter Radishes, Rutabagas + |Best stored in sand in cellars, cares or pits. + | |Must be kept cold to prevent evaporation. + | | |According to the family tastes. + | | | |Kohl-rabi must be tender when stored. + | | | | +Horse-radish + |May be kept in the ground where grown all winter. Must be + |kept frozen as thawing injures it. + | +Pumpkins + |Best kept on shelves in a very dry place. Can be kept on + |shelves in furnace room. + | |Must be ripened and cured and free from bruises. + | | |5 ordinary sized pumpkins. + | | | |Need not be kept especially cold. + | | | | +Squashes + |Susceptible to cold and moisture, so store in a dry place + |where temperature will be between 50 and 60 degrees. + | |Care must be taken that stem is not broken. + | | |10 ordinary sized hubbard squashes. + | | | |Whenever squashes or pumpkins in storage show + | | | |signs of decay, the sound portion should be + | | | |immediately canned. + | | | | +Tomatoes + |Cool cellar or cave; can be wrapped in any absorbent paper + |preferably without printing upon it, and laid upon shelves to + |ripen. The paper absorbs the moisture given off by the + |tomatoes and causes them to ripen uniformly. If cellar is dry + |or well ventilated, tomatoes can be kept a month or six weeks + |in this manner. + | |May be kept until Christmas if vines with the green + | |tomatoes hanging on them are pulled and hung in the + | |cellar. Pull the vines before they are frosted. + | | |All that you can put away. + | | | |Most of the tomatoes that are put into storage + | | | |will ripen and be most acceptable as soon as + | | | |they color up. If these tomatoes, when cooked, + | | | |are found to be very acid, the acidity may be + | | | |overcome by using baking soda. + | | | | +Parsley + |Transplant into flower pots late in the fall. + | |Keep in windows where they will receive plenty of + | |sunshine. + | | +Garlic + |Should be thoroughly cured as are onions. + | |Or it may be braided by the tops into strings which are + | |hung up in dry places for curing and storing. + | | +Head Lettuce + |Rooted in earth in a cellar or cave. + | |Water occasionally. + | | |All you have in the garden. + | | | +Dry beans and peas + |Stored where protected from weevils. + | |Should be fully ripened before shelling. Pick pods by + | |hand as they ripen and spread pods to become thoroughly + | |dry. May be shelled by spreading pods on a sheet and + | |beating them with a stick. Can be cleaned by pouring + | |them from a height of 4 or 5 ft. upon a sheet and + | |allowing the wind to blow the particles of pod out of + | |them as they fall. + | | |As many as you can gather. + | | | +Apples + |Must be kept in a dry, cool place and so stored as to be in + |no danger of absorbing odors from vegetables stored nearby. + |Apples absorb odors from potatoes, onions, turnips and other + |strong vegetables. + | |Sort apples carefully removing and using at once all + | |fruit that is bruised and shows signs of decay. The best + | |results are obtained by wrapping each apple in half a + | |sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates + | |or bins. The wrapping prevents apples from touching and + | |thus prevents decay. It also protects apples from odors + | |of vegetables stored nearby. + | | |As many barrels of apples as possible. Remember + | | |that "An apple a day will keep the doctor away." + | | | |The cellar or other storage place must be kept + | | | |cool. 32° F. is ideal. Never allow temperature + | | | |to go above 40° F. They can be stored + | | | |unwrapped in barrels, boxes, crates, bins, + | | | |etc., if proper attention is paid to sorting, + | | | |to providing a cool place for storage, to + | | | |occasional sorting during the winter and for + | | | |the immediate removal of all decayed fruit. + | | | |Even if you do not raise apples, but have a + | | | |good storage place, meeting the requirements + | | | |as regards temperature, you will find it + | | | |advantageous to buy a winter's supply in the + | | | |autumn, when prices are low. + + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + +You have some delicious jellies, jams, canned fruits and vegetables +that you wish to sell and you do not know just how to go about it. +There are at your disposal several means of selling: + +1. Through advertising. + +2. Through personal letters to desirable shops, delicatessens, +boarding-houses, colleges, etc. + +3. By direct salesmanship; that is, by making personal visits to the +buyers, either homes or stores. + +4. Through jobbers to whom you pay a commission on all sales. + +5. Through coöperative selling. + +Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way for you to handle your problem is +to employ the method so much used to-day and that is wayside +advertising. Wayside advertising costs practically nothing and yet it +pays. + +Autos are everywhere these days. You cannot take a country ride +without seeing many signboards at the farm entrances advertising +chickens, fresh eggs, vegetables, honey, apples and canned goods. I +have a friend who drives 50 miles every fall for her honey. She first +found it by seeing the sign in front of the farm and now she returns +year after year because she thinks no other honey is just like it. She +would never have discovered it if that farm woman had not been clever +enough to think of advertising her goods in this cheap way. My friend +told all her other "auto" friends, so the country woman has a splendid +outlet for her product now. If you live on a good road that is +patronized at all by autoists you ought to get your signboard up at +once. + +We often pass a farm where the sign "Fresh Home-Made Candy" always +tempts us to stop and buy. What autoist could resist that sign? And +here miles from town this clever woman is carrying on a profitable +side trade, which is netting her a nice little yearly income. Her +candy is good; we go often and so do many others. She has turned her +profession into a paying proposition. She could send her candy away by +parcel post or by some other means, but she would not be so far ahead +as she is now. + +In addition to your wayside advertising you could advertise in papers, +magazines, etc. Many producers believe strongly in advertising in +daily and weekly papers. You can quickly find out whether this kind of +advertising pays. Give it a trial at least. After you have spent ten +or fifteen dollars in advertising you ought to know whether it pays. + +Use one or two of the city papers near you, taking the publisher's +advice as to the best day of the week on which to run the +advertisement, the size and the position of the "ad." The first cost +of getting your customers may seem high, but with good products you +could soon build up a list of people to whom sales can be made year +after year. + +This form of advertising has many advantages. If your advertising copy +is clever and you have some novelty to offer, you ought to receive +many orders. If orders come, you get the full retail price, the +shipping charges are paid by the customer, and cash comes with every +order. And it means, if your customers are pleased, that you have +permanent customers. The initial cost is great and there is a risk, +but remember "it pays to advertise." + +There are millions of city women who never can a jar of fruit or put +up a single glass of preserves or jelly who will be glad to have you +send your goods direct to them by parcel post. But you must get in +touch with these women either through wayside advertising, magazine +and paper advertising or by direct salesmanship, although very few +women have the time for personal calls. + +Considerable business can be done by letter writing to stores, +restaurants and boarding-houses in distant cities. It may be +impossible for you to go personally, in which case letters often bring +the desired results. Make your letters business-like and typewrite +them. Do not be discouraged if you do not get many replies at first as +there are at least fifty per cent who pay no attention to such +letters. But this form of advertising usually pays. + +Another method followed by many home canners is that of marketing +direct to the retail grocers, care being taken, of course, to protect +these grocers by not selling to more than one member in a community. +One of the great advantages, of this direct salesmanship is that +little selling effort is required on your part after the first +arrangements have been made. The nearby market plan is greatly to be +recommended because you can keep in touch with your selling concern, +build up a line of desirable goods and promote its sale by +advertising. + +Of course you can get more money for your goods if you have time and +the opportunity to sell _direct to_ the consumers. You will of +necessity have to sell cheaper to the grocers because they too must +make their profit. Marketing direct to the consumer has a special +appeal to many people. Where time is available and the community +accustomed to purchasing in this manner, this method offers great +possibilities. The profits are of course higher but the results more +uncertain, for it is somewhat difficult to gauge the demands of the +public, and the canner must assume the risk ordinarily taken by the +merchant. + +It takes time and patience to develop a list of customers but if you +have time in the winter to do this you will find it will pay you well. +If you can get customers who are willing to pay good prices for +quality, scrupulous cleanliness and the homemade flavor, you will get +a larger gross return than if you sold through merchants, but if your +time is valuable it would scarcely pay you to take individual orders +and deliver goods. + +There is still another way and that is to market your home-canned +products in large lots to jobbers, but if this plan is to be pursued +successfully there must be a reasonably large pack and wholesale +rates. This method produces more uniform profits year by year, for +after a reputation is established the home-canner would not experience +great difficulty in thus disposing of her entire output by contract, +providing the quality was high and the price demands not excessive. + +But the greatest and best way of all to find a profitable market for +your things is to coöperate with other canners in your own +neighborhood and find a market for quantity as well as quality. +Delicatessens, club houses, tea shops, college dormitories, +restaurants and hotels, all pay good prices for fine quality. No big +buyer will bother to purchase one or two dozen of this or that. He +wants dozens of things. One of the very best profitable ways to sell +with little trouble is through quantities. Get all the women in your +community to bring together cans of fruit and preserves, etc., to some +marketing place. Find out how many jars of currant jelly you have, how +many cans of peas and corn, how many of cherries, etc., and then +notify your buyer or prospective buyer. + +Coöperative selling has been undertaken and found profitable. In some +cases, especially in localities frequented by the summer boarder or +the automobile tourist, sales are made direct to customers who come to +the salesrooms of the organizations or to their special sales; in +other cases goods are sent by parcel post and other means. The women +in the community can hire or beg a room where all the women of the +community can sell their products for individual profit. This room +should be located on the direct automobile road in order to attract +tourists and automobile parties. An annual membership fee of from 50 +cents to $1 generally is required for these organizations, and a +charge of from 10 to 15 per cent of the selling price usually is made +to cover the cost of selling. In a few instances the managing board +has been able to secure an efficient person to take charge of the +enterprise for a specified percentage on the sales. + +Wholesale grocery concerns are interested in big things--orders can +be placed with them. Soda fountains in towns and cities are excellent +customers for the freshest eggs they can get. They are encroaching +more and more on the trade of the restaurants and lunch rooms. Many +serve light luncheons and would be interested in good butter, +preserves and jams. When you get a list of names and addresses write +to several dozen places, tell what your organization has in the way of +guaranteed eggs, homemade products and what kind of service you could +offer in the way of regular shipments. When orders come it is an easy +matter to look up at your local bank the responsibility of any +customer, so there is little risk. Or cash can be insisted upon with +every order, although large concerns prefer to pay after receipt of +goods and bill. + +Each woman in this coöperative organization must keep her goods up to +a certain standard, for an inferior lot of goods sent to a large firm +might ruin a reputation. + +Three things govern the sale of canned products--appearances, quality +and price. So many things enter into consideration of prices +obtainable that it is difficult to set a standard which will be +applicable to different sections. The quality of the pack, its +neatness, the method of marketing and many other matters must be +considered in deciding this all-important point. As a general +proposition, however, if the products are uniformly high grade, prices +may be obtained which are somewhat in excess of factory-made products +marketed in the same manner. + +Like any other new industry, the selling should be developed slowly in +order to minimize the possibility of loss and to assure stable +business. One should study the situation carefully both from the +manufacturing and marketing standpoints. Plan the season's campaign +before taking up the work, and do not let the enthusiasm of the +beginner interfere with good business judgment. + +The selling when rightly managed can be made a successful business or +it can be turned into a liability through careless, unbusinesslike +methods and insufficient or unwise planning. Properly handled it will +pay well for the investment of time and money, and offer opportunity +for the disposal of surplus home-canned, home-grown, homemade and +home-prepared products of all kinds. + + +LIVING UP TO CONTRACTS + +Care must be taken not to contract for more than can be delivered. +This would be bad business, and business principles must govern in +selling home products just as in other enterprises if one is to be +increasingly successful from year to year. + +Occasionally a quantity of fruit which will not meet the rigid +requirements of the canning business can be turned into preserves, +jellies or fruit juices. Preserves and jellies should be marketed in +glass, and fruit juices in bottles, although some manufacturers are +now marketing some of these products in fiber cups. This line of +products will require some additional equipment, but there is a steady +demand for such homemade things and many women are deriving profits +through the sale of their tastily prepared jellies, just as pickles +and condiments have lined the pocketbooks of ambitious housewives +before now. + +Home canning for the market is essentially a matter of specializing +and of giving the consumer a better product than he is accustomed to +purchase. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the maintenance of a +high standard for home-canned goods. Care should be taken that every +jar measures up to a rigid standard, for a single one which falls +below grade will neutralize the reputation and standing obtained by +the sale of a dozen jars of perfect product. A quality is necessary +which will warrant a money-back guarantee on every jar. + + +THE USE OF LABELS IN CANNING + +Labels for both tin cans and glass jars should tell the truth as to +the quality, weight and kind of product within the pack. Before +adopting a trade-mark and label, consult the Bureau of Chemistry, U.S. +Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., as to label requirements +for canned goods prepared for the market. + +It pays to show samples of all your canned goods at county and state +fairs. You may win many premiums. Goods which are canned with +preservatives should be debarred from all exhibits. + + +PACKING GLASS FOR SHIPPING + +Wrap each glass or jar separately in rumpled newspapers or excelsior +and pack in barrels or boxes. Line these containers with papers or +excelsior. + +Strong corrugated parcel post boxes can be obtained for this purpose. +Wrap each jar with excelsior or paper before putting it in its proper +section. If sending large amounts send all boxes or all barrels, do +not mix them,--sending half barrels and half boxes--as large concerns +like uniform packages. + + +PACKING TIN FOR SHIPPING + +Two dozen cans is the regulation shipping case. Have the shipping +boxes of uniform size. Put the two dozen cans in the box and nail on +the top. Be exceedingly careful not to drive nails into the cans. On +both ends of the box paste labels such as are on the cans, telling +what the contents of the box are. + +Address the box carefully using marking ink or a regulation tag. If a +tag, tack with small tacks on the top of the box. Write your own name +and address on the tag _distinctly_ as the sender. Be as careful of +the tacks as you were of the nails. Always get a receipt from your +express agent if shipping by express as this will be necessary in case +of non-receipt of goods. + +Send to the concern or individual to whom you are sending the goods a +list of the things you have sent. This is called an invoice. Keep a +copy of the invoice for yourself so if any question arises you will +know what you are talking about. + + +SHIPPING TERMS + +C.O.D. means collect on delivery. The purchaser pays the price of the +products to the transportation company before they are delivered. + +F.O.B. means free on board. For instance: if you send a shipment of +canned goods to Chicago at $6.00 per case f.o.b. Charles City it means +that you deliver the canned goods to the freight depot at Charles City +and the purchaser pays both the price per case and the freight. If you +deliver them f.o.b. Chicago it means you deliver them to the freight +depot at Charles City and also pay the freight to Chicago. + +Bill of Lading with Sight Draft Attached is a call for the money +before the purchaser can take the products from the freight office. + +Drop Shipment. If a wholesale firm requests that you ship direct to +another firm buying from him, thus avoiding two shipments, this is +called a drop shipment. + +Lot Shipment. If you ship two or more barrels or cases as a "lot +shipment" to the same destination they may be sent at a cheaper rate +than if each were shipped separately. + + LIST OF FIRMS FURNISHING SUPPLIES FOR CANNING, DRYING, PRESERVING, ETC + + HOME AND CLUB COÖPERATIVE CANNING OUTFITS AND DEVICES + + Butler Manufacturing Co. Kansas City, Mo., and Hot water and steam + Minneapolis, Minn. pressure canners. + + Carolina Metal Products Co. Wilmington, N.C. " " " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. Hot water canners. + + Farm Canning Machine Co. Meridian, Miss. " " " + + Favorite Manufacturing Co. Tamps, Florida Water-seal canners. + + Florida Metal Products Jacksonville, Fla. Water-seal canners. + + Griffith & Turner Co. 205-207 N. Pace St., Steam canners. + Baltimore, Md. + + Halftime Cooker Co. 7556 Oglesby Avenue, Pressure canners. + Chicago, Ill. + + Hall Canner Co. Grand Rapids, Mich. Hot water bath + canners. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co 80-82 N. 5th Street, Steam pressure + Portland, Ore. canners. + + Home Canner Manufacturing Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + Co. + + E.F. Kirwan & Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Modern Canner Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Monarch Manufacturing Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Northwestern Steel & Iron Eau Claire, Wis. Steam pressure + Wks. canners. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Nashville, Tenn. Hot water canners. + Co. + + Pressure Cooker Co. Denver, Colo. Aluminum steam + pressure cookers + and canners. + + T.H. Raney Chapel Hill, N.C. Hot water canners. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Steam pressure + canners + + Royal Supply Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Steam process + canners. + + Southern Canner and Chattanooga, Tenn. Hot water canners + Evaporator Co. + + Sprague Canning Machinery 222 No. Wabash Ave., Steam pressure + Co. Chicago, Ill. canners. + + F.S. Stahl 212 N. 4th Street, Hot water canners. + Quincy, Ill. + + Standard Water-Seal Canner 17 N. 2nd Street, Water-seal canners. + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Utility Company Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + + Willson Canner Company Louisville, Ky., and Water-seal and + No. 8 G St., N.W. pressure canners. + Washington, D.C. + + + HOME EVAPORATORS, DRYERS, AND EQUIPMENT FOR DRYING + + American Paring Machine Co 1231 Callowhill St., + Philadelphia, Pa. Peeler + + Harry Bentz Engineering Co. 90 West St., New York City Dryer + + G.S. Blakekslee & Company, 2806 Quinn St., Chicago, Ill. " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. + + Enterprise Mfg. Co., 3rd and Dauphin Sts., + Philadelphia, Pa. Slicer + + Edw. B. Fahrney, Waynesboro, Pa. + + Gordon Engineering Corporaton 39 Cortlandt St., New York City " + + The Grange Sales Association, Lafayette Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Hunter Dry Kiln Co. Indianapolis, Ind. Dryer + + Imperial Machine Company, 108 West 34th St., N.Y. City Cuber + + Lake Breeze Motor Co., 564 W. Monroe St., Chicago Dryer + + Philadelphia Drying Machinery Stekley St., above Westmoreland, + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. " + + Philadelphia Textile Machinery Sixth St. and Tabor Road, " + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co., Nashville, Tenn. + + John E. Smith's Sons Co., Buffalo, N.Y. Cuber + + Southern Evaporator Co., Chattanooga, Tenn. + + F.S. Stahl, 212 N. 4th St., Quincy, Ill. + + N.R. Streeter Company, Rochester, N.Y. Dryer + + N.R. Streeter & Co., Rochester, N.Y. " + + B.F. Sturtevant Company, Hyde Park Dist., Boston, Mass. Peeler + + Stutzman Mfg. Company, Ligonier, Ind. + + H.G.W. Young Co., 61 Hanover St., Boston, Mass. Cuber + + + MECHANICAL SEALS AND SEALERS FOR TIN AND GLASS + + American Metal Cap Co., + Summit St. and Commercial + Wharf, Brooklyn, N.Y. Metal bottle caps. + + American Pure Food Process Co., + Greenmount Avenue and Preston + St., Baltimore, Md. Mechanical sealer for glass jars. + + Bowers Can Seal Company, + 146 Summer St., Boston, Mass. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + Burpe Can Sealer Co., + 215 W. Huron St., Chicago. Tin can sealer and opener. + + Columbia Specialty Co., + Baltimore, Md. Metal bottle caps. + + Crown Cork and Seal Co., + Baltimore, Chicago, San + Francisco, and other cities Sanitary metal bottle caps and sealers. + + The Enterprise Mfg. Co., + Philadelphia, Pa. Bottle cappers from 3 in. to 14 in. + + Frazer & Co., Mechanical hand sealer for sanitary + 50 Church Street, New York City cans. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co., + 47 1st Street, Portland, Ore. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + States Metals Co., Hand sealers for sanitary cans. + 30 Church Street, New York City + + + STEAMERS + + Aluminum Cooking Utensil Co. New Kensington, Pa. + + Toledo Cooker Co. Toledo, Ohio. + + Wilmot, Castle & Co. Rochester, N.Y. + + + + HEATING DEVICES, LIFTING CRATES, AND OTHER LABOR-SAVING DEVICES + + L.B. Allen Co. 4517 No. Lincoln St., + Chicago, Ill. Commercial flux. + + Biddle-Gaumer Co. Philadelphia, Pa. Patent canners. + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Fagley & Halpen Philadelphia, Pa. " " " + + Handy Mfg. Co. Maritime Bldg., + Seattle Wash., and Individual jar holders. + 208 No. Wabash Ave., + Chicago, Ill. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Duplex fork. + + Manning, Bowman & Co. Meriden, Conn. Alcholite stoves. + + Parker Wire Goods Co. Worcester, Mass. Lifting tray for jars. + + Pearce Co. Albion, Mich. Racks and lifters. + + W.H. Schaefer Co. Toledo, Ohio. Fruit jar wrench. + + + + LABELS, STICKERS, SHIELDS AND BADGES + + Camden Curtain and + Embroidery Co Camden, New Jersey. + + R.P. Clarke & Co. Washington, D.C. + + Dennison Mfg. Co. Boston, Mass. + + U.S. Printing and + Lithograph Co. Cincinnati, Ohio. + + + TIN CANS AND GLASS JARS + + American Can Co. New York City. Tin cans. + + Ball Bros. Glass + Mfg. Co. Muncie, Ind. Screw top and glass-top jars + + Ben Schloss San Francisco, Cal. Glass jars. + + Buck Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Chesapeake Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Continental Can Co. Chicago, Ill. Tin cans. + + Frazer & Co. 50 Church St., N.Y.C. Sanitary cans. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Glass-top jars. + + Johnson-Morse Can Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Tin cans. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle + Co. Zanesville, Ohio. Glass jars. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Suction seal and Mason + jars. + + E.F. Kirwan Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans and general + equipment. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. Suction seal and screw + top jars. + + Smalley Fruit Jar Co. 26 Dock Sq., Boston, Glass-top jars. + Mass. + + Southern Can Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + F.S. Stahl Quincy, Ill. " " + + Staunton Jar Corporation Ellicott Sq, Buffalo, Vacuum seal jars. + N.Y. + + United States Can Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Tin cans. + + Virginia Can Co. Buchanan, Va. " " + + Wheeling Can Co. Wheeling, W.Va. " " + + + RUBBER RINGS FOR COLD-PACK CANNING + + Acme Rubber Co. Trenton, N.J. + + Boston Woven Hose & + Rubber Co. Boston, Mass. + + United States Rubber Co. Cleveland, Ohio. + + + GLASS BOTTLES AND OTHER CONTAINERS FOR FRUIT JUICES, CATSUP, + ETC. + + Adams Brothers Co. Chicago, Ill. + + Atlantic Bottle Co. 90 West Broadway, N.Y. City. + + Berney-Bond Glass Co. Bradford, Pa. + + Cape May Glass Co. Cape May Court House, N.J. + + Cumberland Glass Mfg. Co. Bridgeton, N.J. + + The Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Glenshaw Glass Co. Glenshaw, Pa. + + C.C. Goss Glass Co., Mfg. Agts. 172 Fulton St., New York City. + + Hocking Glass Co. Lancaster, Ohio. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Indiana Glass Co. Dunkirk, Ind. + + D.C. Jenkins Glass Co. Kokomo, Ind. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Wheeling Glass Bottle Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Ripley & Co. Connellsville, Pa. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. + + Sheffield Glass Bottle Co. Sheffield, Pa. + + The Sterling Glass Co. Lapel, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + United States Glass Co. Salem, N.J. + + Upland Flint Bottle Co. Upland, Ind. + + Western Bottle Mfg. Co. West end Randolph St. Bridge, + Chicago, Ill. + + Whitall-Tatum Co. 410-416 Race St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Wightman Bottle & Glass Mfg. Co. Parkers Landing, Pa. + + Williamstown Glass Co. Williamstown, N.J. + + Woodbury Glass Co. Winchester, Ind. + + + GLASS BOTTLES SEALED WITH CORKS AND METAL CAPS + + Acme Glass Co. Olean, N.Y. + + Binghamton Glass Co. Binghamton, N.Y. + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Jeanette Glass Co. Jeanette, Pa. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Baltimore Bottle Glass Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Whitney Glass Works Glassboro, N.J. + + + EARTHENWARE AND STONEWARE CONTAINERS + + Buckel Pottery Co. White Hall, Ill. + + Buckeye Pottery Co. Macomb, Ill. + + Burley and Winter Pottery Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Hawthorn Pottery Co. Hawthorn, Pa. + + Logan Pottery Co. Logan, Ohio + + Louisville Pottery Co. Louisville, Ky. + + Muskingum Pottery Co. White Cottage, Ohio. + + Nashville Pottery Co. Nashville, Tenn. + + Nelson McCly Sanitary Hardware Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Paducah Pottery Co. Paducah, Ky. + + Pfaltzaraff Pottery Co. York, Pa. + + Ransbottom Bros., Pottery Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Red Wing Union Stoneware Co. Red Wing, Minn. + + Star Stoneware Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Uhl Pottery Co. Evansville, Ind. + + Western Stoneware Co. Monmouth, Ill. + + White Hall Sewer Pipe & Stoneware Co. White Hall, Ill. + + + FIBRE AND PAPER CANS AND BOTTLES + + American Can Co. 447 W. 14th, New York City, and + Chicago, Ill. + + The American Paper Can Co. Washington, D.C. + + The Canister Company of New Jersey Phillipsburg, N.J. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cordley & Hayes 7-9 Leonard St., New York City. + + The Empire Paper Tube and Box Co. 155 Bank St., New York City. + + The Hygeia Paper Container Co. 2106 Auburn Ave., Toledo, Ohio. + + Moisture Proof Fibre Can Co. Detroit, Mich. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + Samuel W. Moore & Sons 95 Liberty St., New York City. + + National Paper Can Co. 576 Clinton St., Milwaukee, Wis. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Pure Food Package Co. 200 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass. + + The Purity Paper Bottle Co., Inc. 1341 S. Capitol St., Washington, + D.C. + + W.C. Ritchie & Co. 400 S. Green St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sanitary Paper Bottle Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Single Service Package Corp. of + America 326 Hudson St., New York City. + + St. Louis Paper Can & Tube Co. 4400 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, Mo. + + The Standard Package Co. 50 State St., Boston, Mass. + + Washington Paper Can Co. 425 12th St., N.W., Washington, D.C. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + FOIL-LINED PAPER BAGS + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + + DELIVERY CONTAINERS FOR EGGS, VEGETABLES, DRIED FOOD PRODUCTS, + ETC. + + Bloomer Bros. Co. Newark, New York. + + Doane Carton Co. 920 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + W.A. Schurmann & Co. 365 E. Ill. St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sefton Mfg. Co. 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + United States Corrugated Fibre + Box Co. Roosevelt Ave., Indianapolis, Ind. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + PARCEL POST EGG CONTAINERS + + O.B. Andrews Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. + + H.K. Brunner 45 Harrison St., New York City. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St Louis, Mo. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cummer Mfg. Co. Cadillac, Mich. + + Day Collapsible Box Co., Inc. Washington Grove, Md. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + F.B. Foster & C o. 2447 Locust St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Ohio No-Break Carrier Co. 702 Mercantile Library Bldg., + Cincinnati, Ohio. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Self-Locking Carton Co. 437 E. Illinois St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord & Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Safety Egg Carrier Co. Newark, N.Y. + + Wallace Egg Carrier Co. 451 3rd St., San Francisco, Cal. + + + MISCELLANEOUS CORRUGATED BOARD CONTAINERS + + American Can Co. New York City and Chicago, Ill. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord and Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Corrugated Fibre Box Co. 1315 Martindale Ave., Indianapolis, + Ind. + + + THERMOMETERS FOR OVEN, CANDY AND SUGAR + + Taylor Instrument Companies Rochester, N.Y. + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 *** diff --git a/13775-h/13775-h.htm b/13775-h/13775-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4934720 --- /dev/null +++ b/13775-h/13775-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9986 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Every Step in Canning, by Grace Viall Gray</title> +<style type="text/css"> +/*<![CDATA[ XML blockout */ +<!-- + P { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + } + HR { width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + .bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + .bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .note {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em;} /* footnote */ + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} /* page numbers */ + .sidenote {width: 20%; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em; padding-left: 1em; font-size: smaller; float: right; clear: right;} + hr.full { width: 100%; + height: 5px; } + a:link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + link {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:visited {color:blue; + text-decoration:none} + a:hover {color:red} + pre {font-size: 9pt;} + + // --> + /* XML end ]]>*/ +</style> +</head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 ***</div> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, Every Step in Canning, by Grace Viall Gray</h1> +<hr class="full" noshade> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>EVERY STEP IN</h1> +<h1>CANNING</h1> +<h1>THE COLD-PACK METHOD</h1> +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B</h2> +<p style='text-align: center;'><b><i>Formerly Associate Professor +of Home Economics, Iowa State College</i></b></p> +<p style='text-align: center;'>1920</p> +<br> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> +<p>It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, +Cold-Pack Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand +one day at a federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a +few weeks there would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty +miles away. Immediately I announced that I was going to the +demonstrations. So leaving my small daughter with my mother, I went +to the Normal School at DeKalb, Illinois, and heard and saw for the +first time cold-pack canning.</p> +<p>It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded +full of interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I +felt amply repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, +the first story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in +<i>The Country Gentleman</i> and I had the pleasure of writing it. +So enthused was I over this new, efficient and easy way to can not +only fruits but hard vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that +I wanted to carry the good news into the kitchen of other busy +housewives and mothers.</p> +<p>My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, +just from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, +much against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement +work, my sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that +for the first time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over +one phase of cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that +when she received my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, +"Mother, I am enthused about this canning and want to can +everything in sight this summer," she hastily washed all available +glass jars and tops and had everything in readiness for young +daughter's return. And we canned. We were not content to can alone +but invited all the neighbors in and taught them how to can. Our +community canned more things and more unusual things, including the +hard vegetables, that year than they had ever attempted before.</p> +<p>Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there +were doubting Thomases, but it only took time and <i>results</i> to +convert even the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a +confession. It was much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase +of canning, to master this new method than it was for me with my +four years' training course and my five years of teaching canning +behind me. And this is the reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," +she knew no other method whereas I had to "unlearn" all my previous +methods.</p> +<p>The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from +the old hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you +must forget all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And +right here is where many women "fall down"—they are not +willing to admit that they know nothing about it and so do not get +accurate information about it. They are so afraid of appearing +ignorant. This false feeling is the greatest obstacle in woman's +way.</p> +<p>I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will +say, "Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it +for thirty years." And when I show my surprise, they further +enlighten me with, "and my mother used it before me, too." With a +little <b>tactful</b> questioning I usually get these answers: "Of +course, I do not hot dip and cold dip. I never heard of that +before. I pack the products into the cold jars and for all +vegetables I use a preserving powder because there is no way on +earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless you put +something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right. Then I +cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I ask, +"How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the answer, +"Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems like +such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned, out-of-date +methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and much +actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for +there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old +rather than try the new.</p> +<p>The present book is therefore designed for all interested in +greater efficiency in the home, including not only students of home +economics but all persons who have charge of homes and are +interested in learning new, efficient, time and labor saving +methods.</p> +<p>In the preparation of this book I have received much help from +Mr. O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' +and Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. +I also wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped +to make this book possible by contributing information, advice and +encouragement.</p> +<p>GRACE VIALL GRAY.</p> +<p>October, 1919.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>I.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>GETTING READY TO CAN</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>II.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>SOFT FRUITS AND +BERRIES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>III.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>HARD FRUITS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>IV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_V'>V.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_V'>SOUPS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VI'>VI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VI'>JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, +MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VII'>VII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VII'>MEAT</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VIII'>VIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VIII'>FISH</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IX'>IX.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_IX'>EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN +TIN</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_X'>X.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_X'>INTERMITTENT CANNING OR +FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>XI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>WHY CANNED GOODS +SPOIL</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>XII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XII'>GETTING READY TO +DRY</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIII'>XIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIII'>HOW TO DRY FRUITS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIV'>XIV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIV'>HOW TO DRY +VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XV'>XV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XV'>EVERY STEP IN +BRINING</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVI'>XVI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVI'>CURING, SMOKING AND +PRESERVING MEAT</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVII'>XVII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVII'>PRESERVED OR "CANNED" +EGGS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVIII'>XVIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVIII'>HOME STORAGE OF +VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIX'>XIX.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIX'>HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED +PRODUCE</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<h1>EVERY STEP IN CANNING</h1> +<br> +<a name='CHAPTER_I' id="CHAPTER_I"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER I</h2> +<h3>GETTING READY TO CAN</h3> +<br> +<p>Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of +canning, preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California +fruits by the case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen +cans, according to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was +cheaper and decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, +greens, soups and meats than to take time and strength in the very +hottest season of the year to do our own canning.</p> +<p>But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us +thrift. The crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has +sunk into our minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods +have been adopted by the modern woman. Women who had never canned +in days before the war had to can during war days. Food was so +scarce and so high in price that to buy fancy or even plain canned +products was a severe strain on the average housewife's purse. The +American woman, as was to be expected, came quickly and eagerly to +the front with the solution and the slogan: "More gardens and more +canning and preserving at home."</p> +<p>A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As +I have just said, women who had never canned before became vitally +interested in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, +but jars upon jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so +great was their delight in the finished products that again and +again I heard them say: "Never again shall we depend upon the +grocery to supply us with canned goods."</p> +<p>If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that +their grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just +the same, because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they +would have canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so +apparent during the summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a +result of new canning methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. +The women of to-day were forced into a new field and learned how +satisfying and well worth while the results were. It is safe to +guarantee that every home-canning recruit will become a +home-canning veteran.</p> +<p>The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned +how simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear +that home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the +immediate necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own +because of the war, and it has come to stay because of its many +merits.</p> +<p>There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all +over the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the +"intermittent," the "cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods.</p> +<br> +<p><b>DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS</b></p> +<p>The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was +largely used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in +the preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized +jars, after which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar +is done after the sterilization has been completed, there is always +a possibility of bacteria and spores entering the jar with the +cooked food and the air. Fruits can be handled successfully in this +way, but this method cannot be used for vegetables, greens and +meats. It is a very laborious, hot and hard way to can. Modern +housewives are discarding it more and more every year and are +beginning to place their trust in the newer and far more scientific +methods of canning.</p> +<p>The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still +beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture +into the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all +fruits and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where +they say the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great +objection to this method of canning is that it requires three +periods of sterilization on three different days and three liftings +of jars in and out of the sterilizer.</p> +<p>What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning +should not be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The +"cold-water" is often used in connection with the canning of +rhubarb, green gooseberries and a comparatively few other sour +berry fruits. If the "cold-water" method is used we would suggest +that the product be thoroughly washed, placed in a strainer, +scalding water poured over it, and the product then packed at once, +in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and clean, cold water +applied until the jars are filled. If these steps are taken +carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be successful +with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products will have +to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not +consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE COLD-PACK METHOD</b></p> +<p>The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is +known as the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight +to prove that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory +process for busy housewives to can everything that grows.</p> +<p>This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, +and if I should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am +referring to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are +packed cold in their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or +containers. To the fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables +hot water and a little salt are added. The sterilization is done in +the glass jars or tin containers after they are partly or entirely +sealed, making it practically impossible for bacteria or spores to +enter after the product has once been carefully sterilized or +cooked. In following this method vegetables should first be +blanched in boiling water or live steam, then quickly plunged into +cold water and the skins removed. The products are then packed in +containers and sterilized according to the instructions and recipes +given later.</p> +<p>When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the +product for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled +with food. It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, +processing, boiling and cooking are all interchangeable terms and +mean one and the same thing.</p> +<p>By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food +products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be +successfully sterilized in a single period with but one handling of +the product in and out of the canner.</p> +<p>All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy +pulp, and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than +in any other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is +eliminated and all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause +vegetables and meat to spoil are destroyed.</p> +<br> +<p><b>EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL</b></p> +<p>For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you +have in the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many +of us have purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn +out more at the end of a day and have found it well worth while to +invest a few dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more +efficient. But if you are a beginner and do not care to put any +money in an unknown venture use the available things at hand, just +to prove to yourself and others that it can be done.</p> +<p>Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those +which are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and +basements and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good +condition and will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good +rubber you can use that jar.</p> +<p>If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor +economy to use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably +responsible for more spoiled canned goods than any other cause. +Good tops and good rubbers are requisites for good canning.</p> +<p>For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a +galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail—a new +one, of course. Either is excellent where the family is small and +the canning is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the +cookstove while others employ a large vat. If you should have to +buy the wash boiler or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover +and be sure the pail does not leak. Then all you have to do is to +secure what we call a false bottom, something that will keep the +jars of fruit from touching the direct bottom of the boiler or +pail. This false bottom, remember, is absolutely necessary, for +without it the jars will break during the boiling.</p> +<p>For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and +cut it to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or +bucket. If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a +wooden bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not +available put thin pieces of wood in the bottom—anything to +keep the jars from coming in direct contact with the bottom of the +sterilizer.</p> +<p>If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use +a deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. +This rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars +from becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a +tendency for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be +lost. Do not use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a +false bottom; they are unsatisfactory because they do not allow +proper circulation of water.</p> +<p>Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by +many women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the +market and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned +fingers. Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies +with you, individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will +hold all your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them +separately.</p> +<p>To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no +matter what kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper +than the tallest jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra +inch or two so that the water will not boil over.</p> +<p>Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you +will need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may +be put for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water—if +you haven't running water—for the "cold dip."</p> +<p>If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar +lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the +canner. If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as +they contain an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher +for lifting the jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, +such as scales, knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of +cheesecloth or muslin for blanching or scalding the product, and +the kitchen clock play their part in canning.</p> +<p>No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product +is cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food +will be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is +desired to add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may +be done when the product is packed in the jar.</p> +<p>A great many people have been led to believe through advertising +matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds +for the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep +under the commonly known methods of canning. The first argument +against the use of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It +is possible to sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on +tree, vine, shrub or in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period +method of canning, without the use of a compound. The second +argument against it is that many of the canning compounds are +positively harmful to health. Some of them contain as high as +ninety-five per cent of boric acid. Directors of county and state +fairs should exclude from entry all fruits and vegetables that have +been preserved in any canning compound. Perfect fruit can be +produced without any chemical preservative. The third argument is +that they are expensive.</p> +<p>There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and +garbage pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath +outfits. In these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling +water.</p> +<p>There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the +product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally +used for everyday cookery.</p> +<p>The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the +aluminum pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards +the time required to sterilize food.</p> +<p>Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and +manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the +hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or +hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing.</p> +<p>The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated +but more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker +because it can be used for everyday cooking in the home.</p> +<p>Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, +as they are used daily and not just during the canning season.</p> +<p>Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a +hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen +minutes; in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, +twelve minutes; in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of +steam, ten minutes; in an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten +pounds of steam, five minutes.</p> +<p>It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath +outfit; the shortest and quickest method is with the pressure +cooker that has a pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife +has different financial problems, different hours of working and +different ways of working. Where quick work is desired and expense +is no item the pressure cooker is advisable; where money is scarce +and time is no object the homemade outfit answers. Each one must +decide which outfit is best for her own particular case. It matters +not which outfit you have—they have all been thoroughly +tested and approved by experts. Each one does the work.</p> +<p>This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart +kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart +measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar +opener; wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for +blanching; pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one +tablespoon; one teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring +cup; jar lifter; either a rack for several jars or individual jar +holders; and a clock.</p> +<p>The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept +busy during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices +for outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the +young people of your family and give them something definite and +worth while to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must +be kept busy—if not usefully employed they are often inclined +to mischief. This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can +be used in the back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the +front yard.</p> +<p>Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of +heat required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for +canning are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of +500 feet above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot +increase in altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the +time required as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning +of all kinds of fruits, vegetables, greens and meats.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_II' id="CHAPTER_II"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER II</h2> +<h3>SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</h3> +<br> +<p>Having decided on your canning outfit, whether you are going to +can in boiling water, in a condensed steam cooker, or in steam +under pressure; having gathered together the necessary tools, such +as spoons, knives and a funnel; having raided the storeroom and +collected some jars, you are now ready for the actual work of +canning.</p> +<p>It is rather unfortunate that strawberries should be one of the +very hardest products to can with good results. The canning itself +is simple—all berries are quickly and easily canned—but +strawberries always shrink, are apt to turn a little brown, and, +what distresses us most of all, they float to the top of the +jar.</p> +<p>The berry's tendency to shrink is responsible for loss of color +as well as its floating qualities. However, if you will be +exceedingly careful to remove the berries from the canner the +minute the clock says the sterilizing period is over, you will have +a fairly good product. Two minutes too long will produce a very +dark, shrunken berry. So be careful of the cooking time. Another +thing that makes a good-looking jar is to pack a quart of +berries—all kinds of berries, not merely +strawberries—into a pint jar. If you will get that many in +you will have a much better-looking jar, with very little liquid at +the bottom. It does not hurt the berries at all to gently press +down on them with a silver spoon while you are packing them into +the jar.</p> +<p>We know we are going to get a quart of berries into every pint +jar, so we know just how many quarts of berries we will need to +fill the necessary jars for the next winter's use.</p> +<p>The first thing to do is to test each jar to see that there are +no cracks, no rough edges to cut the rubber, and to see whether the +cover and clamp fit tightly, if a clamp type of jar is used. The +bail that clamps down the glass tops should go down with a good +spring. If it does not, remove the bail and bend it into shape by +taking it in both hands and pressing down in the middle with both +thumbs. Do not bend it too hard, for if it goes down with too much +of a snap it will break the jar. This testing of the bails should +be done every year. The bails on new jars are sometimes too tight, +in which case remove the bail and spread it out. After the bail has +been readjusted, test it again. The chances are it will be just +right. Of course all this testing takes time, but it pays.</p> +<p>If you are using some old Mason jars put a rubber on each jar, +fill the jar with hot water, and then put the cover on tight and +invert. This is a sure test for leakage. Never use a Mason cap +twice unless the cover and collar are separate so that both can be +completely sterilized. Fortunately the old-fashioned Mason jar +metal cover to which a porcelain cap is fastened is going out of +style.</p> +<p>If you still have some of these old covers it will be economy to +throw them away. You will be money ahead in the end. After these +tops have been used once it is impossible to make a fastening +between the porcelain and the metal so tight that it is not +possible for the liquid to seep through and cause the contents to +spoil. This accounts for many failures when old tops are used. For +this reason never use the old-fashioned, zinc-topped covers.</p> +<p>The new and safe Mason jar covers consist of two parts, the +metal collar and the porcelain cap. They are for sale at all +grocery or hardware stores.</p> +<p>If you are using the vacuum-seal jars which have a composition +attached to the lacquered tops, carefully examine this rubber +composition to see that it is perfect. This composition should go +entirely round the top and should not be cut or broken in any +place. If it is the top must be discarded for a perfect one.</p> +<p>Of course with this type of jar no rubber rings are necessary, +as the rubber composition on the lacquered top does the +sealing.</p> +<p>It is a wise plan to go round the tops and over the inside of +all new glass jars with a heavy and dull knife to scrape off any +slivers of glass or bursted blisters that may be still clinging to +the jars. Those on the tops cut through the rubber and cause +leakage. Those in the jars may get into the product. I often find +these splinters, particularly on new straight-sided jars.</p> +<p>It matters not what type of jar you use. Use what you have at +hand, but if you are buying new jars consider the following things +before making your selections: No metal, unless it is enameled or +lacquered, should come in contact with the food. The jars should be +of smooth, well-finished glass. The color of the jar does not +affect the keeping qualities of the food. The top or part of the +top that comes in contact with the contents should be all in one +piece, so as not to offer a place for the accumulation of organisms +and dirt. The jars which have nearly straight sides and a wide +mouth or opening are easier to wash and facilitate better, quicker +and easier packing of the product.</p> +<p>Wash the jars in soap and water. Rinse in boiling water. Some +people temper new jars so they will stand the shock of hot water or +hot sirup without breaking. If you wish to take this extra +precaution put the jars in a dishpan or kettle of cold water after +they have been washed in soapy water; bring the water slowly to a +boil and let it boil fifteen minutes. After the jars are ready test +the rubber rings. This may seem a useless precaution, but it is a +necessary one, for there is no one detail in the business of +canning that is more important. Even in the best boxes of rubbers +there is occasionally a black sheep, and one black sheep may cause +the loss of a jar.</p> +<p>Test each rubber before you use it by pressing it firmly between +the thumbs and forefingers, stretching it very slightly. If it +seems soft and spongy discard it. All rubbers fit for canning +should be firm, elastic, and should endure a stretching pull +without breaking. A good rubber ring will return promptly to place +without changing the inside diameter.</p> +<p>A great many women are laboring under the wrong impression that +color affects the quality of a ring. Some women insist on red, and +others on white. Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter +during the manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index +to its usefulness in home canning.</p> +<p>Use only fresh, sound strawberries or other berries. There is a +little knack about preparing the strawberries that few housewives +know. Hull the berries by <i>twisting the berries off the hull</i>, +instead of pulling the hull from the berry as most women do. You +will have a better-looking berry if you will be careful about this. +Place the berries in a strainer and pour cold water over them to +cleanse them.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO ADJUST THE COVERS</b></p> +<p>Never allow the berries or any fruit to stand in water, as the +flavor and color are destroyed by water-soaking. Pack in glass +jars, pressing the berries down tightly, but without crushing them. +Put the rubber on the jar if you are using a jar requiring a +rubber. Pour hot sirup over the berries. Put the top of the jar in +place, but only partially tighten it.</p> +<p>If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, screw down with +the thumb and little finger, not using force but stopping when the +cover catches.</p> +<p>If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in +place. The spring will give enough to allow the steam to +escape.</p> +<p>In using glass-top jars with the patent wire snap, put the cover +in place, the wire over the top and leave the clamp up.</p> +<p>The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while the product is +cooking, because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover +is not loose enough to allow the steam to escape the pressure may +blow the rubber out or break the jar.</p> +<p>The product is now ready for the canner.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STERILIZING</b></p> +<p>If you are using the homemade outfit, such as wash-boiler or +garbage pail, all berries and soft fruits are sterilized sixteen +minutes; in all commercial hot-water-bath outfits and in condensed +steam, sixteen minutes; in the water-seal, twelve minutes; in the +steam pressure under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; and in the +pressure cooker under ten pounds of steam, five minutes. Do not +allow the pressure to run above ten pounds for soft fruits; fifteen +pounds makes them mushy.</p> +<p>If you use any type of hot-water-bath outfit be sure the water +is boiling when the fruit is lowered into the canner, and <i>keep +it boiling</i> vigorously for the entire sixteen minutes. At the +end of the sterilizing time, <i>immediately</i> remove the jars +from the canner.</p> +<p>In taking canned goods from boiling water care is needed to see +that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows +and doors while lifting the jars out, as a sudden draft might break +them.</p> +<p>Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes if a +cover is screwed down too tight the pressure of the steam from the +inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a +thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then +tighten.</p> +<p>In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a +poor rubber it should be replaced by a new one, and the jar +returned to the cooker for five minutes.</p> +<p>The jars should be sealed tight—covers screwed down, +clamps put in place—immediately after they are removed from +the cooker.</p> +<p>Invert the jar to test the joint, then let it cool. If the seal +is not perfect correct the fault and return the jar to the cooker +for five minutes if hot, ten minutes if the jar is cold.</p> +<p>Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool, +and then be tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the +jars by the cover only. Lift the jar only half an inch, holding it +over the table, so that in case the lid does not hold the jar and +contents will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge +of the cover with a rule. An imperfect seal will give a hollow +sound.</p> +<p>As light injures delicately colored fruits and vegetables, it is +wise to store them in dark places, such as cupboards, or basement +or attic shelves protected from the light. Black cambric tacked to +the top shelf and suspended over the other shelves is a sufficient +protection from light. A discarded window shade can be rolled down +over the shelves and easily pulled up when you desire to take a jar +from the shelves.</p> +<p>Canned goods are best kept at a temperature below seventy +degrees Fahrenheit, where that is at all possible.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</b></p> +<p>It might be well to enumerate the steps in berry and soft-fruit +canning, or do what we called in our schooldays "review it":</p> +<p>1. Get the canner and all its accessories ready.</p> +<p>2. Test and wash jars and tops and put in water to +sterilize.</p> +<p>3. Test rubber rings.</p> +<p>4. Make sirup and put in double boiler to keep hot</p> +<p>5. Prepare the product—hull, seed, stem.</p> +<p>6. Place berries or fruit in strainer or colander.</p> +<p>7. Rinse by pouring cold water over product.</p> +<p>8. Pack from strainer into hot jar.</p> +<p>9. Use big spoon to get a firm pack.</p> +<p>10. Dip rubber in hot water to cleanse it and put it in place on +the jar.</p> +<p>11. Pour the hot sirup over the fruit at once.</p> +<p>12. Put top of jar on, but not tight.</p> +<p>13. Ready for canner.</p> +<p>14. Sterilize for the necessary length of time, according to the +outfit you are using:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hot-water-bath outfit</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Condensed-steam outfit</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water-seal outfit</td> +<td align='center'>12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure, 5 pounds, outfit</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pressure cooker, 10 pounds, outfit</td> +<td align='center'>5</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>15. Remove from canner.</p> +<p>16. Tighten cover, except vacuum-seal jar, which seals +automatically.</p> +<p>17. Test joint.</p> +<p>18. Three or four days later, if perfectly air-tight, label and +store in a dark place.</p> +<p>These steps are followed for strawberries, blackberries, +blueberries, dewberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, raspberries, +and for all soft fruits, such as cherries, currants, grapes and +figs.</p> +<p>The other soft fruits, such as peaches and apricots, which have +a skin, are scalded or "hot dipped" for one to two minutes in +boiling water or steam and are then plunged into cold water. These +two steps of hot-dipping and cold dipping make the removal of skins +a very simple operation. After the skins are removed the fruit is +put into the hot jars and the process continued from Step 8, as +with strawberries.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SIRUPS</b></p> +<p>Of course you are wondering about the sirups for the different +fruits. There is no set rule for making sirup. It is not necessary +to use sirup in canning fruits. The amount of sugar used in the +sirup will depend upon the individual taste. In a first-class +product there should be enough sirup to improve its flavor, but not +enough to make it take the place in the diet of a sweet preserve +rather than a fresh fruit.</p> +<p>The sirups are made either with varying proportions of sugar and +water or with the same proportions boiled different lengths of +time. What is known as the California sirup is made with three +parts of sugar to two parts of water, boiled gently to different +concentrations.</p> +<p><b>Thin Sirup</b>. For a thin sirup take three cups of sugar and +two cups of water. Mix sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. +This is used for all sweet fruits not too delicate in texture and +color, as apples, cherries, pears, or for fruits in which more +sugar will be added in preparation for the table.</p> +<p><b>Medium Thin Sirup</b>. The sugar and water should be boiled +about four minutes, or until it begins to be sirupy. This is used +for raspberries, peaches, blackberries, currants, etc.</p> +<p><b>Medium Thick Sirup</b>. Boil the sugar and water until it +will pile up over the edge of the spoon when it is tipped. This is +used for sour or acid fruits, as plums, gooseberries, apricots, +sour apples, and some of the delicately colored fruits, as +strawberries.</p> +<p><b>Thick Sirup</b>. The sugar and water are boiled until it will +form a ball in the spoon and cannot be poured from the spoon. This +is used for preserves.</p> +<p>It is possible to get more, sometimes almost twice as much, +sirup into a quart jar containing large fruits, as apples and +pears, than into a quart jar containing small fruits, as currants +or blackberries.</p> +<p>There is a little knack worth knowing about combining the sugar +and water for the sirup. If the sugar is sifted into the boiling +water just as fine-grained cereals are sifted into water, there +will be no scum formed. This is a saving of sugar.</p> +<p>If you wish to can strawberries for the market or to win a prize +at the county or state fairs, can them as follows:</p> +<p>Canned by this recipe, strawberries will not rise to the top of +the sirup. Use only fresh, ripe, firm and sound berries. Prepare +them, and add eight ounces of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water +to each quart of berries. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes in an +enameled or acid-proof kettle. Allow the berries to cool and remain +several hours or over-night in the covered kettle. Pack the cold +berries in hot glass jars. Put rubbers and caps of jars in +position, not tight. Sterilize for the length of time given below +for the type of outfit used:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water bath, homemade or commercial</td> +<td align='center'>8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water seal, 214 degrees</td> +<td align='center'>6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 pounds steam pressure</td> +<td align='center'>5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>10 pounds steam pressure.</td> +<td align='center'>Do not use.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool and +test the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to prevent bleaching.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_III' id="CHAPTER_III"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER III</h2> +<h3>HARD FRUITS</h3> +<br> +<p><b>PINEAPPLES</b></p> +<p>The object of canning citrus fruits is, first, to save the +surplus and by-products; second, to furnish wholesome fruits at +reasonable cost to more of our people; third, to help the producer +to transform by-products into net profits.</p> +<p>Almost every one likes canned pineapple, but some housewives +stopped canning this fruit because they found that when cooked in +sirup it seemed to get tough and less palatable. Vegetable and +fruit fibers are toughened when cooked with sugar for any length of +time, so in all cases where you desire to keep the product as +Nature grew it avoid this form of cooking.</p> +<p>When the product is put into the jars with a sirup and cooked in +the jar you will have a product superior to the one that is cooked +over the direct fire in the kettle with the sirup.</p> +<p>But pineapple slices or pieces are so hard they cannot be put +directly into the jars as berries are. Pineapples must undergo a +preliminary process to make them palatable and soft. This +preliminary process is known in canning as "blanching."</p> +<p>After the pineapple has been prepared by paring and removing the +eyes, it can be left in slices or cut into cubes. In cutting hold +the pineapple at the top and use a sharp knife. It is then placed +in a wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth for the blanching. +Blanching means to immerse the product in boiling water for a +certain length of time to reduce its bulk and soften it.</p> +<p>Pineapples are blanched for five minutes. We scald peaches and +apricots, which are soft fruits; but we blanch pineapples, apples +and quinces, the hard fruits.</p> +<p>Scalding means to immerse the product in boiling water for a +very short time—just long enough to loosen the skins. +Blanching is just a longer period of scalding.</p> +<p>When you blanch pineapples use only enough water to cover them. +This same blanching water can be used for making the sirup. It +contains much of the pineapple flavor and there is no reason for +discarding it. But this is absolutely the only blanching water that +is ever used. All other blanching water, particularly that in which +vegetables are blanched, is full of objectionable acids that we +want to get rid of, so under no circumstances must it be used. But +with pineapples the object of blanching is primarily to soften the +hard fiber, so there is no objection to using the blanching +water.</p> +<p>After the pineapple has been in the covered kettle of boiling +water for five minutes, it is held under cold water until cool +enough to handle. Never let it soak in cold water, as that will +impair its delicate flavor. After this it is packed into hot +sterilized jars. Rubber rings are put on the jars, the covers are +put in place—not tight—and the jars are put in the +canner.</p> +<p>Pineapple is sterilized for thirty minutes in a hot-water-bath +outfit; thirty minutes in a condensed steam outfit; twenty-five +minutes in the water-seal; twenty-five minutes in the steam +pressure under five pounds of steam, and eighteen minutes in the +pressure cooker under ten pounds of pressure. At the end of the +sterilizing period the jars are removed, the covers completely +tightened and the joints carefully tested for leakage.</p> +<p>A thin or medium-thin sirup is best for pineapples. Measure the +blanching water and to every two cups of it add three cups of +sugar. If you wish the sirup thin heat until the sugar is +dissolved. If medium-thin sirup is desired, boil it about four +minutes or until it begins to be sirupy.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING PINEAPPLE</b></p> +<p>1. Cut the pineapple into slices of desired thickness.</p> +<p>2. Pare the slices. It is easier to pare the slices than to pare +the whole pineapple.</p> +<p>3. Remove the eyes, using pineapple scissors to facilitate the +work.</p> +<p>4. Blanch pineapple for five minutes in a small amount of +boiling water, using a wire basket or cheesecloth.</p> +<p>5. Cold-dip the pineapple.</p> +<p>6. Make a sirup, using the blanching water. Make a thin or +medium-thin sirup.</p> +<p>7. Pack the pineapple into hot sterilized jars, with good +rubbers on them.</p> +<p>8. Pour the sirup over the pineapple.</p> +<p>9. Put the tops of the jars on—not tight.</p> +<p>10. Sterilize for 30 minutes in hot-water-bath outfit, 30 +minutes in condensed-steam outfit, 25 minutes in water-seal outfit, +25 minutes in steam pressure (5 pounds), 18 minutes in pressure +cooker (10 pounds).</p> +<p>11. Remove from canner, tighten covers and inspect rubber and +joints.</p> +<br> +<p><b>APPLES</b></p> +<p>Here are six ways in which canned apples may be used: as a +breakfast dish, with cream and sugar; baked like fresh apples; in +apple salad, often served for lunch or supper; as a relish with +roast pork—the apples may be fried in the pork fat or the +cores may be cooked with roast pork for flavoring; and for apple +dumplings, deep apple pie and other desserts in which whole apples +are desirable. The sirup of canned whole apples can be used for +pudding sauces or fruit drinks.</p> +<p>Apples are another hard fruit which require blanching, as it +greatly improves their texture and appearance.</p> +<p>Apples and some other fruits, such as pears and quinces, have a +tendency to turn brown when allowed to stand after they are cut. To +prevent their discoloring the pieces may be dropped into mild salt +water as they are pared and sliced. Let them stand for five +minutes, then wash them in clear water and pack. Use a thin sirup +for canning apples.</p> +<p>Summer apples are not firm enough to keep well when canned. They +cook up and lose flavor. They may, however, be canned to be used in +a short time. Windfall apples may be pared, cored and sliced, using +water, and only a small quantity of that, instead of sirup, and +canned for pies.</p> +<p>To be able to can windfall and cull apples and thus have them +for home use through the entire year is a great advantage to all +farmers who grow them. They can be sold on the market canned when +they would not bring a cent in the fresh state.</p> +<p>The windfall and cull apples may be divided into two grades. The +first grade would include the whole reasonably sound fruit; the +second grade the worm-eaten, partially decayed and injured fruit. +Do not can any injured or decayed part nor allow apples to become +overripe before canning.</p> +<p><b>Canning Whole Reasonably Firm Apples</b>. Wash the apples. +Remove cores and blemishes. Place whole apples in blanching tray or +blanching cloth and blanch in boiling hot water for one or two +minutes. Remove and plunge quickly into cold water. Pack in large +glass jars. Pour over the product a hot thin sirup. Place rubber +and top in position. Seal partially—not tight.</p> +<p>Sterilize jars twenty minutes in hot-water-bath outfit and in +condensed steam, fifteen minutes in water-seal, ten minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam pressure, five +minutes in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit, under ten pounds of +steam pressure. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and +test joints.</p> +<p>Firm and tart apples may be cored and peeled first, then canned +by the above recipe.</p> +<p><b>Canning Apples for Pie Filling</b>. Use second grade of +windfalls or culls. Wash, core, pare and remove all decayed spots. +Slice apple quickly into a basin containing slightly salted cold +water—about one tablespoon of salt per gallon—to +prevent discoloring. Pack fresh cold product in glass jars. Add one +cupful of hot thin sirup to each quart of fruit. Put on the rubbers +and screw on tops, but do not seal completely. Sterilize twelve +minutes in hot-water bath or condensed-steam outfit; ten minutes in +water-seal outfit; six minutes under five pounds of steam pressure; +four minutes in aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten +covers, invert to cool and test joint. Store.</p> +<p>This filling can be used for making apple pies in the same way +that fresh apples would be used, with the exception that the sirup +must be poured off and less sugar should be used. Since the apples +have already been cooked, only enough heat is needed to cook the +crust and to warm the apples through. Pies may be baked in seven +minutes. The apple pies made with these apples are, in the opinion +of many housekeepers, as good as those made with fresh fruit, and +they can be made in less time and are less expensive.</p> +<p>The only difference between canning apples for pies and salads +or whole is that when wanted for pies the apples should be sliced +immediately after placing in cold slightly salted water.</p> +<p><b>Canning Quartered Apples for Fruit Salads.</b> Select +best-grade culls of firm and rather tart varieties. Core, pare and +quarter. Drop into basin containing slightly salted cold water. +Pack these quartered pieces tightly in jars. Add a cup of hot thin +sirup to each quart. Place rubber and top in position, partially +seal—not tight. Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water bath +and condensed-steam outfits; ten minutes in water-seal outfit; six +minutes under five pounds of steam pressure; four minutes in +aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to +cool and test joints. Store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ORANGES</b></p> +<p><b>Canning Whole Oranges and Other Citrus Fruits.</b> Select +windfall or packing-plant culls. Use no unsound or decayed fruit. +Remove skin and white fiber on surface. Blanch fruit in boiling +water one and a half minutes. Dip quickly in cold water. Pack +containers full. Add boiling hot thin sirup. Place rubber and cap +in position and partially seal—not tight.</p> +<p>Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; eight minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes in +steam-pressure outfit under five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit. Remove jars, tighten covers, +invert to cool and test joints. Wrap glass jars with paper to +prevent bleaching, and store.</p> +<p><b>Canning Sliced Oranges for Salad Purposes</b>. The oranges +may be divided into their natural sections or sliced with a knife. +Pack jars or containers full. Pour over product hot thin sirup. +Place rubber and cap in position. Partially seal—not tight. +Sterilize ten minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; six minutes in water-seal outfit; five minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit under ten pounds of steam. Remove +jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test the joints. Wrap jars +with paper to prevent bleaching, and store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PEARS, QUINCES AND RHUBARB</b></p> +<p>Pears are prepared and canned just as the whole firm apples are, +being blanched a minute and a half, cold-dipped and sterilized for +the same length of time as apples.</p> +<p>Quinces are so very hard they must be blanched like pineapples, +but for a longer time. Six minutes' blanching is usually sufficient +for quinces. The sterilizing period can be determined by looking at +the chart.</p> +<p>If skins are left on rhubarb it keeps its pink color. The hot +dip is not necessary and may be omitted. It removes some of the +excessive acid in the rhubarb which makes it objectionable to some +people. Be very careful not to hot-dip the rhubarb more than one +minute, for it gets mushy. An advantage of the hot dip is that more +rhubarb can be packed in a jar after it has been hot-dipped.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WHAT A BUSHEL OF FRUIT WILL YIELD</b></p> +<p>A great many women have no conception of how many jars of fruit +they will get from a bushel or half bushel of produce. It is wise +to have a little knowledge along this line, for it aids in planning +the winter's supply of canned goods as well as at marketing +time.</p> +<p>From one bushel of the various fruits you will get on the +average the following:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center'>PRODUCTS, 1 BUSHEL</td> +<td align='center'>PINT JARS</td> +<td align='center'>QUART JARS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall apples</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard peaches</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +<td align='center'>18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges—sliced</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges—whole</td> +<td align='center'>35</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING WITHOUT SUGAR</b></p> +<p>Though all instructions indicate that sugar is necessary for the +canning of all kinds of fruits, it is not necessary for their +proper sterilization and preservation. Any fruit may be +successfully sterilized by simply adding boiling water instead of +the hot sirup. It is a well-known fact, however, that most fruits +canned in water will not retain so well their natural flavor, +texture and color as fruit canned in sirup. When the product is to +be used for pies, salads, and so on it is not necessary to can in +sirup. When fruits canned in water are to be used for sauces, the +products should be sweetened before use. In many instances it +requires more sugar to sweeten a sauce after canning than it does +when the product is canned in the hot sirup.</p> +<p>However, during the World War we had a good chance to test the +fruits which we canned without sugar, when that commodity was +scarce and, in fact, impossible to get in very large quantities. We +used our fruits just as they were and considered them very good. +This all goes to show that we can easily adjust ourselves to +prevailing conditions. In canning without the sugar sirup, you +would follow these directions:</p> +<p>Cull, stem or seed, and clean fruit by placing in a strainer and +pouring water over it until clean. Pack product thoroughly in glass +jars until full; use table knife or tablespoon for packing +purposes. Pour over the fruit boiling water from kettle, place +rubbers and caps in position, partially seal glass jars and place +produce in canner.</p> +<p>If using hot-water-bath outfit sterilize from twenty to thirty +minutes. After sterilizing remove packs, seal glass jars, wrap in +paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry cool place.</p> +<p>When using a steam-pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath +sterilize for ten minutes with five pounds of steam pressure. Never +allow the pressure to go over ten pounds when you are canning soft +fruits.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WHEN TO CAN</b></p> +<p>Inexperienced canners may not know when certain fruits are in +season and at their prime for canning. The list below is +necessarily subject to change, as seasons vary from year to year; +but in normal years this table would hold true for the Northern +States.</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apricots</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Blackberries</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Currants</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gooseberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Grapes</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Huckleberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>August-September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pineapple</td> +<td align='left'>June</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Quinces</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Raspberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Rhubarb</td> +<td align='left'>All summer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Strawberries</td> +<td align='left'>May-June</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>For your canning you will need as your guide the charts on the +pages which follow. They are very simple and will tell you how to +prepare all the various fruits, whether or not they are to be +blanched, and if so exactly how many minutes, and how long to cook +or sterilize the products, according to the outfit you are +using.</p> +<br> +<h3>CHART FOR CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='center' colspan='6' class='bb'><b>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO +STERILIZE</b></td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' valign='bottom' class='bb'>KIND OF FRUIT / +PREPARATION</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO BLANCH OR +HOT-DIP</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT +212°F</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT +214°F</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 +POUNDS</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>REMARKS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>APRICOTS: To remove skins hot-dip and +cold-dip. Can be canned with the skins. Pits give a good +flavor</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1 to 2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>BLACKBERRIES: Pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>BLUEBERRIES: Pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CHERRIES: Wash, remove stems, and +remove pits if desired. If pitted save the juice</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup if sour; thin +sirup if sweet</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CURRANTS: Wash and pick from stems</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CRANBERRIES: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>DEWBERRIES: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>FIGS: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Figs can be hot- dipped for a minute +or two if desired. Hot-dipping shrinks the figs so more can be +packed in a jar</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GOOSEBERRIES Wash and snip off stems +and blossom ends</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GRAPES Wash and pick from stems</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>HUCKLEBERRIES Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PEACHES Blanch and cold-dip, then +remove skins.</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1-2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10 (Use only 5 pounds +pressure.)</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>X</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>If peaches are canned under more +than 5 pounds of pressure they become flavorless and dark in +color</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PLUMS Wash; stones may be removed if +desired.</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1-2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>For sweet plums use thin or +medium-thin sirup; for sour plums use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>RASPBERRIES pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>RHUBARB Wash, cut into ½ inch +pieces. Use sharp knife</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Be very careful not to hot-dip the +rhubarb more than one minute, for it gets mushy</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>STRAWBERRIES Pick over, wash and +hull</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='8' class='bb'><b>HARD FRUITS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>APPLES Pare, core and cut into halves +or smaller pieces</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½ to 2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>15</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PEARS Wash, pare or not as desired. +Small pears may be canned whole or quartered</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>15</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PINEAPPLE Cut into slices or inch +cubes. The cores can be removed</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>18</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin or medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>QUINCES Remove skins and cores. Cut +into convenient slices</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>40</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>40</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Apples, pears and quinces should be +dropped into salt water to keep fruit from turning brown. Use salt +in the proportion of one tablespoonful to one gallon of water. Use +thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>WINDFALL APPLES FOR PIE FILLING Cut +into halves</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>QUARTERED APPLES FOR SALAD</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water and save the sugar for +other purposes</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CRAB APPLES Pare and core</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water or use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='8' class='bb'><b>CITRUS FRUITS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>ORANGES, WHOLE Remove skins and white +fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>LEMONS, WHOLE Remove skins and white +fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GRAPEFRUIT, WHOLE Remove skins and +white fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>ORANGE AND OTHER CITRUS FRUITS, SLICED +Slice with a sharp knife</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>FRUITS CANNED IN WATER WITHOUT SUGAR +SIRUP</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>NOTE.—When cooking products in pint or half-pint jars +deduct three or four minutes from the time given above. When +cooking in two-quart jars add 3 or 4 minutes to time. The estimates +given are for quart jars.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_IV' id="CHAPTER_IV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> +<h3>VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>It is practical to can all vegetables, even such difficult ones +as corn, peas and beans, by the cold-pack method of canning without +using any preservatives, if you will follow all directions, +instructions and the time-table accurately. Vegetable canning is a +little more complicated than fruit canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOMATOES</b></p> +<p>Every one likes canned tomatoes. In many homes more tomatoes are +canned than any other product. The housewife uses them for soups, +for sauces and for seasoning many meat dishes. Some women say: "I +can preserve everything but tomatoes. They always spoil. What do I +do wrong?" If the following directions are followed tomatoes will +not spoil.</p> +<p>Tomatoes really are the easiest vegetable to can, because the +period of sterilization is short, and many jars may be canned in a +day, or if one is very busy a few jars may be canned daily without +the expenditure of a great deal of time.</p> +<p>The best tomatoes for canning are those of moderate size, smooth +and uniformly ripe. When a tomato ripens unevenly or when it is +misshapen, it is difficult to peel, and the percentage of waste is +high. Tomatoes should not be picked when they are green or partly +ripe, for the flavor will not be so good as when they are allowed +to remain upon the vines until fully ripe. Care should be taken, +however, not to allow them to become overripe before canning.</p> +<p>In no instance should a tomato with a rotten spot be canned, +even though the spot is cut out, for the occasional spoiled jar +resulting from this attempted saving will cost more than the partly +spoiled tomatoes are worth. If the housewife will can only +uniformly ripe, sound tomatoes, saving the small, uneven but sound +fruit for tomato <i>purée</i>, she will have a much +better-looking pack and greater food value at the close of the +season. Yellow tomatoes may be canned in the same manner as are the +more common red varieties, except that it is not necessary to +remove the cores.</p> +<p>First of all, grade for ripeness, size and quality; this is to +insure a high-grade product. We could, of course, can different +sizes and shades together, but uniform products are more pleasing +to the eye and will sterilize much more evenly. If the products are +of the same ripeness and quality, the entire pack will receive the +proper degree of cooking.</p> +<p>Wash the tomatoes. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Put the +tomatoes in a wire basket, or lay them on a piece of cheesecloth or +a towel, twist the ends together to form a sack, and let this down +into the kettle. It is a good plan to slip a rubber band round the +neck of this sack to hold the ends in place. The ends should be +long enough to stand up out of the water and so avoid danger of +burning the fingers when removing the product.</p> +<p>Have the water boiling hard. Lower the tomatoes into the boiling +water. This is called scalding the tomatoes. We scald the tomatoes +to loosen the skin. If the tomatoes are very ripe, one minute +scalding will be sufficient. The average length of time for +tomatoes, just perfect for canning, is one and a half minutes. Do +not leave the tomatoes in the hot water until the skins break, as +this gives them a fuzzy appearance.</p> +<p>The scalding kettle always should be covered, to keep in all the +heat possible. Begin to time from the minute the product is +immersed in the boiling water. If you wait until the water comes +back to a boil, you will scald the product too long and have mushy +tomatoes.</p> +<p>Lift the tomatoes out of the hot water and plunge them +immediately into cold water, or hold them under the cold-water +faucet. The cold-dip makes them easier to handle, separates the +skin from the pulp, firms the texture, and coagulates the coloring +matter so it stays near the surface, giving them a rich, red color. +Then the shock due to the sudden change from hot to cold and back +to hot again seems to help kill the spores. Do not let the product +stand in the cold-dip. The water becomes lukewarm, softens the +product and allows bacteria to develop.</p> +<p>Take the tomato in the left hand and with a sharp knife cut out +the core. Be careful not to cut into the fleshy portion or seed +cells, for this will scatter the seeds and pulp through the liquid, +injuring the appearance of the product. Cut out the core before +removing the skin, for the skin will protect the pulp and there +will be less danger of breaking the tomato. If the tomatoes are +ripe and have been scalded properly, the skin can be slipped off +with the fingers.</p> +<p>The jars, rubbers and tops should be ready. Glass jars should be +hot, so there will be no danger of breakage in setting them in the +hot water, and so they will not cool the water in the cooker below +the boiling point.</p> +<p>Pack the tomatoes whole, pressing and shaking them well down +together, but not using force enough to crush them.</p> +<p>Now we come to a point where tomatoes are different from most +vegetables. Beans, carrots, peas, and so on, have hot water added +to them. But as a large part of the tomato is water, no more is +needed. Another exception where no water is needed is with the +"greens family." So with tomatoes we add no water, but add one +teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of sugar, just for +seasoning, to every quart jar. I think that tomatoes always are +improved by the addition of a little sugar, but this is not +necessary and can be omitted, as also can be the salt.</p> +<p>The salt in canning does not act as a preservative, but as +seasoning; so if for any reason you forget the salt, do not be +alarmed. Your products will keep perfectly without the salt.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE WAY TO SEAL</b></p> +<p>The products are in the hot jars now. The jars do not need to be +full in order to keep. If you were canning by the "open-kettle" +method, the air in the partly filled jar would not have been +sterilized, and might contain the bacteria which cause the product +to ferment or mold. But by the cold pack, the air in the can is +sterilized while the product is being sterilized; and if the can is +closed immediately after cooking, a single spoonful may be canned +in a two-quart jar and the product will keep indefinitely.</p> +<p><b>Place Rubber and Cover on Jar.</b> Fit the rubber. Use good +rubbers and see that they lie flat and fit close up to the can. Put +the covers in place.</p> +<p><b>Do Not Seal Glass Jars Tight.</b> If using screw-top jars +screw each cover down until it catches, then turn a quarter of a +round back; or screw down with the thumb and little finger, not +using force but stopping when the cover catches.</p> +<p>If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in +place. The spring will give enough to allow the steam to +escape.</p> +<p>If using glass-top jars, with the patent wire snap, put the +cover in place, the wire over the top and the clamp up.</p> +<p>The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while processing, +because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is not +loose enough to allow the steam to escape, the pressure may blow +the rubber out or break the jar.</p> +<p>When canning in tin we cap and tip the cans at once. The tin +will bulge out, but is strong enough to withstand the pressure, and +when the contents cool the can will come back into shape.</p> +<p>The jars are now ready for the canner. Tomatoes sterilized under +boiling water require twenty-two minutes; in condensed-steam +cooker, twenty-two minutes; in water-seal, eighteen minutes; in +steam-pressure, with five pounds, fifteen minutes, and in the +pressure cooker, at ten or fifteen pounds, ten minutes.</p> +<p>If you use the homemade outfit or any water-bath outfit be sure +the water is boiling when the jars of tomatoes are lowered into the +canner. Time lost in bringing the contents to the point of +sterilization softens the tomatoes and results in inferior goods. +Use the ordinary good sense with which you have been endowed in +handling the jars and you will have no breakage. At the end of the +sterilizing period, remove the jars.</p> +<p>In taking canned goods from boiling hot water, care is needed to +see that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the +windows and doors while lifting the jars out, for a sudden draft +might break them.</p> +<p>Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes, if the +covers are screwed down too tight, the pressure of the steam from +the inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover +a thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. +In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber, it should be replaced by a new one and the jar returned to +the cooker for five minutes.</p> +<p>The jars should be sealed tight—covers screwed down, +clamps put in place—immediately after they are removed from +the cooker.</p> +<p>Invert to test the joint and cool. If the seal is not perfect, +correct the fault, and return the jar to the cooker for five +minutes if hot, ten minutes if jar is cold.</p> +<p>Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool +and then tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the +jars by the cover only. Lift the jar only a half inch, holding it +over the table so that, in case the lid does not hold, the jar and +contents will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge +of the cover with a ruler. An imperfect seal will cause a hollow +sound.</p> +<p><b>Tomato Purée.</b> Small, misshapen, unevenly ripened +tomatoes may be converted into tomato <i>purée</i>. The +tomatoes should be washed, run through a colander to remove skins +and cores, concentrated by cooking to about half the original +volume, and packed in the jars. Rubbers and tops should then be +placed in position and the product sterilized for the same length +of time as for canned tomatoes. <i>Purée</i> even may be +kept in bottles sealed with sterilized corks and dipped several +times in paraffin.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW OTHER VEGETABLES ARE CANNED</b></p> +<p>All other vegetables are canned exactly like tomatoes, with two +exceptions. Tomatoes are scalded. All other vegetables are +blanched. We scald tomatoes to loosen the skins and to start the +flow of the coloring matter, which is later arrested or coagulated +by the cold-dip.</p> +<p>Blanching is scalding, only for a longer time. Scalding is never +for more than two minutes. Blanching covers from three to thirty +minutes.</p> +<p>We blanch beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, +and so on, for three to ten minutes. We blanch these vegetables to +eliminate any objectionable acids or bitter flavors which may be +present, and thus improve the flavor; to reduce the bulk so we can +pack closer; to start the flow of the coloring matter; to improve +the texture of the vegetables by making them more tender, and to +improve the appearance by helping to make clear the liquid in the +jar. Blanching is what makes for success in the cold-pack method of +canning. Blanching is <i>very</i> important and must be carefully +and accurately done.</p> +<p>Let me repeat about blanching: Have the kettle of blanching +water <i>boiling vigorously, completely immerse</i> the product in +the boiling water, cover the kettle <i>immediately</i> and begin to +time the product. Do not stand with the cover in hand and wait for +the water to come back to the boil, for, of course, it stopped +boiling for a second when you lowered into it the cold product. If +you cover the kettle the water will quickly reboil. Do not keep +wondering if it is boiling and take off the cover to see. All these +may seem foolish precautions, but it is necessary to follow +directions accurately.</p> +<p>And remember, all things that are scalded or blanched must be +followed immediately by a cold plunge or "cold-dip." The scalding +or blanching is the "hot-dip," and this must be followed by the +"cold-dip." You may be asking, what is the point of this +"cold-dip"? It is a very logical question.</p> +<p>We "cold-dip" a product to harden the pulp under the skin and +thus permit the removal of the skin without injury to the pulp; to +coagulate the coloring matter and make it harder to dissolve during +the sterilization period and to make it easier to handle the +products in packing, and to subject the product to a sudden shock +by quick change in temperature.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p>If you will follow these steps for all vegetable canning you +cannot help but be successful:</p> +<p>1. Clean jars and test rubbers. If rubbers do not return to +normal shape after stretching, do not use.</p> +<p>2. Prepare material to be canned, according to directions given +on chart.</p> +<p>3. Hot-dip—blanch or scald—the prepared food. This +process consists of immersing the prepared product in boiling water +for different lengths of time, according to the material to be +canned. See chart. Hot-dipping shrinks the product and enables one +to pack more material in a jar.</p> +<p>4. Cold-dip the material. This process consists of plunging the +blanched or scalded food into cold water, which makes it more +easily handled. Be sure the water is cold; the colder the +better.</p> +<p>Take the product out immediately and let it drain. <i>Don't let +any food soak in the cold water.</i></p> +<p>From this point on, speed is highly important. The blanched +vegetables which are slightly warm must not be allowed to remain +out of the jars a moment longer than is necessary.</p> +<p>Remove skins when required, and as each article is pared cut it +into pieces of proper size and</p> +<p>5. Pack directly into the clean, scalded cans or jars. Pack as +solidly as possible, being careful not to bruise or mash soft +products. Pack the product to within three-eighths of an inch of +the top. Lima beans, navy beans, peas, corn, pumpkin and sweet +potatoes swell, so pack them within only one inch of the top of the +jar.</p> +<p>6. Add seasoning. One teaspoonful salt to every quart jar of +vegetables, and an equal amount of sugar to tomatoes, corn and peas +if desired.</p> +<p>7. Add boiling water to within a quarter inch of top to all +vegetables, except tomatoes and greens. Tomatoes contain +ninety-four per cent water, so none should be added. Tomato juice +can be used if desired. Greens are canned in just the water that +clings to the leaves after the cold-dip.</p> +<p>8. Adjust rubber rings and the covers of the jars; partially +seal.</p> +<p>9. Sterilize—see time-table on pages following.</p> +<p>10. Remove from canner and completely seal. Test for leaks. Cool +jars as rapidly as possible, without drafts striking them.</p> +<p>Rapid cooling of the product prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture of the product.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR VARIOUS VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p><b>Greens.</b> No water is added to greens. Ninety percent of greens is +water. They are high in mineral matter and we must preserve +that.</p> +<p><b>Asparagus.</b> Remove string before packing in jar. Can or dry tough +ends for soup. If asparagus is packed in jars as whole stalks, pack +with the tips up.</p> +<p><b>Tomatoes.</b> Remove skins before packing. Tomatoes may be canned +whole or in pieces. Skin, cook and strain imperfect tomatoes. Use +this for liquid; as 94 per cent of the tomato is water, no water is +needed.</p> +<p><b>Eggplants.</b> Make slices about ½ to ¾ of an inch +thick. Do not add salt, as it causes eggplants to turn dark.</p> +<p><b>Pumpkin and squash.</b> If you do not wish to scrape out of the +shells you can remove seeds, pare and cut into small blocks of +uniform size. Then blanch.</p> +<p><b>Sweet corn.</b> Corn expands a little in processing, and for this +reason jars should not be filled quite full. Corn that has reached +the dough stage before being packed will have a cheesy appearance +after canning. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the +cold-dip water.</p> +<p><b>Field corn.</b> This product is commonly known as corn-club +breakfast food. The corn should be selected between the milk and +the dough stage. Wide-mouthed glass jars or tin cans should be used +for canning this product. Avoid packing container too full, as the +product swells during the sterilization period. The corn should be +canned the same day it is picked from the field if possible. After +this product has been sterilized and cooked and stored away it will +form a solid, butter-like mass which may be cut into convenient +slices for toasting, frying and baking purposes.</p> +<p><b>Mushrooms.</b> Do not fail to blanch and cold dip. After opening +containers remove the mushrooms immediately and use them as quickly +as possible.</p> +<p><b>Sweet peppers.</b> Place the peppers in the oven and bake them until +the skins separate from the meat. Remove the skin. Pack in hot +jars. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Add boiling water.</p> +<p><b>Lima beans.</b> Lima beans can be either blanched or steamed. If +blanched allow 5 minutes; if in live steam allow 10.</p> +<p><b>Wax or string beans.</b> Beans can be canned whole or cut into +uniform pieces.</p> +<p><b>Cabbage and cauliflower.</b> Cabbage and cauliflower should be +soaked in cold brine (½ lb. salt to 12 quarts water) for one +hour before blanching.</p> +<p><b>Brussels sprouts.</b> Use small solid heads.</p> +<p><b>Peas.</b> A cloudy or hazy appearance of the liquid indicates that +the product was roughly handled in blanching and cold dipping, or +that broken peas were not removed before packing.</p> +<p><b>Carrots and parsnips.</b> Carrots can be packed whole, in slices or +in cross-section pieces. Skin of parsnips can be scraped off after +blanching and cold dipping.</p> +<p><b>Beets.</b> Small beets that run 40 to a quart are the most suitable +size for first-class packs. Well-canned beets will show a slight +loss of color when removed from the canner, but will brighten up in +a few days.</p> +<p><b>Turnips.</b> Scrape skin after blanching and cold dipping.</p> +<p><b>Corn and tomatoes.</b> Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to every quart of +mixture. Mix 2 parts of tomatoes with 1 part corn. One teaspoonful +of sugar improves the flavor.</p> +<p><b>Corn, tomatoes and string beans.</b> Use 1 part of corn, 1 part of +green string beans and 3 parts of tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of +salt and 1 teaspoonful of sugar to every quart jar.</p> +<p><b>CHARTS FOR CANNING ALL VEGETABLES AND GREENS</b></p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='center' class='bb' colspan='6'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO +STERILIZE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' valign='bottom'>VEGETABLES / PREPARATION</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>SCALDING OR BLANCHING +MINUTES</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN BOILING WATER OR HOMEMADE +OUTFIT (212°F.)</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT +214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 +POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='7' class='bb'><i><b>Class 1—Greens, +Domestic and Wild</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>ALL GREENS—SPINACH, BEET TOPS, +CHARD, DANDELIONS, ETC. Pick over; wash in several waters.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Steam in colander or in steamer +until wilted Takes about 15 minutes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 2 +—Special Vegetables</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>ASPARAGUS Wash, remove woody ends; cut +to fit jar; tie in bundles.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch tough ends 4 minutes, tip +ends 2 minutes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>25, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TOMATOES Select fresh, ripe, firm +tomatoes. Skins will slip off after scalding and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Scald 1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>22</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>22</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>18</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>18</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>EGGPLANTS Remove skin after blanching +and cold dipping. Slice crosswise and pack.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch 3</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PUMPKIN AND SQUASH Cut into sections; +remove seeds; scrape shells after blanching and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch 5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN—SWEET Cut corn from cob, +blanch immediately after and cold dip.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 on cob</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN—FIELD Remove husk and silk. +Cut the corn from the cob after it has been blanched and cold +dipped. Feed the corn to a food chopper and grind to a pulp. Cook +this product in a kettle, add ⅔ teaspoonful sugar and ⅓ +teaspoonful salt to each quart. Cook (stir while cooking) until the +product has assumed a thickened or pastelike mass.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>MUSHROOMS If small, can them whole; if +large they may be cut into sections.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>SWEET PEPPERS Use either green or red +peppers.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>..</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 (1¾ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 3—Pod +Vegetables and Other Green Products</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEANS—LIMA Shell and wash.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEANS—WAX OR STRING Wash and +string.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CABBAGE Use small solid heads of +cabbage.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CAULIFLOWER Use flowered portion of +cauliflower.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>20, at 15 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BRUSSELS SPROUTS Cut into sections and +remove core.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PEAS Shell and wash. Add 1 teaspoonful +of salt and 1 tea- spoonful of sugar toevery quart.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 to 15 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 4—Roots +and Tuber Vegetables</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CARROTS, PARSNIPS, SALSIFY Remove skin +by scraping after blanching and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEETS To retain the color of beets +leave 3 or 4 inches of the stem and all the root on while +blanching. After cold dipping, the skin may be removed Scrape the +skin.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TURNIPS Wash thoroughly with a +vegetable brush.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class +5—Vegetable Combinations</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN AND TOMATOES Prepare individual +vegetables and then combine and pack.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>..</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN,<br> +TOMATOES AND<br> +STRING BEANS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3<br> +1½<br> +5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Count from time when water begins to boil (bubbles all over). +This time schedule is for both pint and quart jars. Add 30 minutes +to time of sterilizing for 2-quart jars.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_V' id="CHAPTER_V"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER V</h2> +<h3>SOUPS</h3> +<br> +<p>After one has learned how to can fruits and vegetables +successfully, the next thing to attempt is the canning of +soups.</p> +<p>Soups may be canned with or without meat. We make one variety +which is a pure vegetable soup. We use no stock or meat, and can it +in its own juice or liquor, thus using no water.</p> +<p>When we wish to use it we dilute it three or four times and +serve it as a vegetable soup or, more frequently, when we have +chicken bones or any meat bones on hand, we add a can of this +concentrated vegetable mixture to the bones and make a delicious +stock soup.</p> +<p>I will give this recipe as I have given it to many friends, all +of whom have pronounced it excellent:</p> +<ul> +<li>1 Peck ripe tomatoes</li> +<li>1 Head cabbage</li> +<li>1 Dozen carrots</li> +<li>1 White turnip</li> +<li>3 Pounds string beans</li> +<li>1 Pound okra</li> +<li>3 Red peppers</li> +<li>1 Peck spinach</li> +<li>2 Pounds asparagus</li> +<li>6 Small beets</li> +<li>6 Ears sweet corn</li> +</ul> +<p>Scald the tomatoes by placing them in a wire basket and plunging +them into boiling water for one and a half minutes. Cold-dip them +immediately. After removing the core and stem end of the tomato, +the skin slips right off. Save all the tomato juice. Cut the +tomatoes into quarters. Put into a large pail or bucket with the +juice. Blanch the cabbage, carrots, turnip, string beans, okra and +sweet red peppers five minutes. Cold-dip. Of course you blanch and +cold-dip each product separately. Cut each vegetable after it is +blanched and cold-dipped into small cubes and add to the +tomatoes.</p> +<p>Spinach must be carefully washed to remove all grit and sand. +All greens must be washed through several waters to cleanse them +thoroughly.</p> +<p>Instead of blanching the spinach in a kettle of boiling water, +as we do the other vegetables, we steam it by placing it in a +colander over boiling water or in a regulation steamer with tightly +fitting cover, such as is used for steaming suet puddings and brown +bread. If you can with a steam-pressure canner or a pressure +cooker, then steam the spinach there. If we boiled the spinach for +fifteen or twenty minutes we would lose a quantity of the mineral +salts, the very thing we aim to get into our systems when we eat +spinach, dandelion greens, Swiss chard and other greens. After the +blanching or steaming comes the cold dip.</p> +<p>There is something about blanching asparagus, either for soups +or when canned alone, that is worth knowing. Instead of blanching +the whole stalk of asparagus for the same length of time, we use a +little discretion, giving the tougher, harder ends a full four +minutes' blanching, but allowing the tender tip ends only two +minutes. You are possibly wondering how that is done.</p> +<p>Tie the asparagus stalks in bunches and put the bunches with all +the tips standing one way on a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth +or snap rubber bands round it, and then stand the asparagus in +boiling water in an upright position for two minutes; next lay the +asparagus lengthwise in the blanching water for another two +minutes, and you have accomplished your purpose. You have given the +tougher parts two minutes' more blanching than the tender parts. +Use a deep enough kettle so the asparagus will be completely +covered when laid lengthwise. After the blanching, cold-dip the +asparagus.</p> +<p>Wash the beets. Leave two inches of the top and all the tail on +the beets while blanching. Blanch for five minutes, then cold-dip. +Next scrape off the skin, top and tail. The tops can be put right +into the soup too. Any surplus tops can be steamed with the spinach +and can be treated similarly.</p> +<p>Blanch corn on the cob five minutes. Cold-dip. Cut the corn from +the cob, cutting from tip to butt end. Add the corn to the other +vegetables. Add no water. Pack the mixed vegetables into clean +glass jars; add one level teaspoonful of salt to every jar; +partially seal; cook one hour and a half in wash-boiler or other +homemade outfit. At the end of that period remove jars from canner, +seal tight, and the work is done.</p> +<p>Of course you are interested in the cost of this soup. Most of +the ingredients came right from our garden. We had to buy the okra +and the red peppers, but I figured everything just as if I had to +buy it from the market; and on this basis, the cost of our soup +would have been only seven and a half cents a can. We canned it in +tin, using size Number Two, which is the same as pint size in glass +jars.</p> +<p>Another vegetable soup without stock, dried beans and peas being +used, is made as follows:</p> +<p>Soak six pounds of Lima beans and four pounds of dry peas over +night. Boil each thirty minutes. Blanch sixteen pounds of carrots, +six pounds of cabbage, three pounds of celery, six pounds of +turnips, four pounds of okra, one pound of onions, and four pounds +of parsley for three minutes and dip in cold water quickly. Prepare +the vegetables and chop into small cubes. Chop the onions and +celery extra fine. Mix all of them thoroughly and season to taste. +Pack in glass jars or tin cans. Fill with boiling water. Partially +seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; sixty +minutes if using water-seal outfit or five-pound steam-pressure +outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure cooker.</p> +<p>In many homes cream of tomato soup is the favorite. To make this +soup the housewife uses a tomato pulp and combines it with milk and +seasonings. You can can a large number of jars of this pulp and +have it ready for the cream soup. To make and can this pulp follow +these directions:</p> +<p><b>Tomato Pulp</b>. Place the tomatoes in a wire basket or piece +of cheesecloth and plunge into boiling water for one and a half +minutes. Plunge into cold water. Remove the skins and cores. Place +the tomatoes in a kettle and boil thirty minutes. Pass the tomato +pulp through a sieve. Pack in glass jars while hot and add a level +teaspoonful of salt per quart. Partially seal glass jars. Sterilize +twenty minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; eighteen minutes if using water-seal, or five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; fifteen minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit.</p> +<p><b>Soup Stock.</b> To make the soup stock which is the +foundation of all the stock soups, use this recipe:</p> +<p>Secure twenty-five pounds of beef hocks, joints and bones +containing marrow. Strip off the fat and meat and crack bones with +hatchet or cleaver. Put the broken bones in a thin cloth sack and +place this in a large kettle containing five gallons of cold water. +Simmer—do not boil—for six or seven hours. Do not salt +while simmering. Skim off all fat. This should make about five +gallons of stock. Pack hot in glass jars, bottles or enameled or +lacquered tin cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Sterilize forty minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; thirty minutes if using water-seal or +five-pound steam-pressure outfit; twenty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p>Soups made with soup stock are many and varied. One can utilize +the things at hand and change the distinctive flavor from year to +year. I will give you a few good specimen recipes which if followed +will give good results:</p> +<p><b>Vegetable Soup.</b> Soak a quarter pound dried Lima beans and +one pound unpolished rice for twelve hours. Cook a half pound pearl +barley for two hours. Blanch one pound carrots, one pound onions, +one medium-size potato and one red pepper for three minutes and +cold-dip. Prepare the vegetables and cut into small cubes. Mix +thoroughly Lima beans, rice, barley, carrots, onions, potato and +red pepper. Fill glass jars or the enameled tin cans three-fourths +full of the above mixture of vegetables and cereals. Make a smooth +paste of a half pound of wheat flour and blend in five gallons soup +stock. Boil three minutes and add four ounces salt. Pour this stock +over vegetables and fill cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a +water-seal or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes +if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Cream of Pea Soup.</b> Soak eight pounds of dried peas over +night. Cook until soft. Mash fine. Add the mashed peas to five +gallons of soup stock and bring to boil. Pass the boiling liquid +through a fine sieve. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour and +add paste, ten ounces of sugar and three ounces of salt to the soup +stock. Cook until soup begins to thicken. Pack in glass jars or tin +cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process +ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; eighty minutes if using water-seal outfit; seventy minutes +if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if +using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Cream of Potato Soup.</b> Boil one and a half pounds of +potatoes, sliced thin, and five gallons of soup stock for ten +minutes. Add three ounces of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper +and a half pound of butter and boil slowly for five minutes. Make +three tablespoonfuls of flour into smooth paste and add to the +above. Cook three minutes and pack in glass jars or tin cans while +hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize +ninety minutes if using a hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a water-seal outfit; +sixty-five minutes if using a five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +forty-five minutes if using a pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Bean Soup.</b> Soak three pounds of dried beans twelve hours +in cold water. Cut two pounds of ham into quarter-inch cubes and +place in a small sack. Place beans, ham and four gallons of water +in kettle and boil slowly until the beans are very soft. Remove the +ham and beans from the liquor and mash the beans fine. Return ham +and mashed beans to the liquor, add five gallons of soup stock and +seasoning, and bring to boil. Pack into jars or cans while hot. +Partially seal jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process two hours if +using hot-water-bath or condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if +using water-seal outfit; seventy-five minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; sixty minutes if using pressure cooker.</p> +<p><b>Okra Soup.</b> Slice eight pounds okra into thin slices the +round way. Blanch ten minutes and cold-dip. Boil one and a half +pounds rice for twenty-five minutes. Mix okra and rice and fill +cans or jars half full. To five gallons soup stock add five ounces +salt, a quarter teaspoonful of coriander seed and a quarter +teaspoonful of powdered cloves, and bring to boil. Fill remaining +portion of jars or cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Process two hours if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if using water-seal outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +sixty minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken-Soup Stock.</b> Place thirty pounds chicken in ten +gallons of cold water and simmer for five hours. Remove meat and +bones, then strain. Add sufficient water to make ten gallons of +stock. Fill glass jars or tin cans with hot stock. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. This stock is used to make soup +where the term "chicken-soup stock" is used. Process ninety minutes +if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if +using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken Broth With Rice.</b> For each gallon of soup stock +use twelve ounces of rice. Boil rice thirty minutes. Fill jars or +tin cans two-thirds full of rice and the remainder with soup stock. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety +minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if +using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken Gumbo.</b> Cut two pounds ham into small cubes and +boil thirty minutes. Mince three pounds chicken and chop half a +pound of onions fine. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour. +Add above to five gallons of chicken-soup stock. Then add a half +pound butter and a quarter pound salt and boil ten minutes. Next +add three ounces powdered okra mixed with one pint water. Pack into +glass jars or tin cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap +and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using +water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure +outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOMATO ACID CHECKS BACTERIA</b></p> +<p>Some women who have canned soup tell me it spoiled or tasted +"sourish and smelled sourish too." This is what we call "flat +sour." It may happen to any vegetable you can, as well as to the +soups. "Flat sour" affects peas, beans, asparagus and corn more +than other vegetables. If the vegetables have been picked for some +time and the bacteria have had a chance "to work," and you are not +exceedingly careful about your canning, you may develop "flat sour" +in the soup. If you let one little spore of this bacteria survive +all is lost. Its moist growing place is favorable to development, +particularly if not much acid is present. One little spore left in +a jar will multiply in twenty hours to some twenty millions of +bacteria. This twenty million can stand on the point of a needle, +so a can could acquire quite a large population in a short time. +Bacteria do not like acids, so it is always a good idea to have +tomatoes in your soup mixture, and get the tomatoes into the stone +crock early in the game. The tomato acid will safeguard the other +vegetables which lack acid.</p> +<p>If you are careless about the blanching and +cold-dipping—that is, not doing these full time—if you +work too slowly in getting the products into jars and then let the +full jars stand in the warm atmosphere, you are pretty sure to +develop "flat sour."</p> +<p>Place each jar in the canner as it is packed. The first jars in +will not be affected by the extra cooking. Have the water just +below the boiling point as you put in each jar. When you have the +canner full bring the water to the boiling point as quickly as +possible and begin to count cooking or sterilizing time from the +moment it does boil.</p> +<p>Some women make the mistake at the end of the cooking period of +letting the jars remain in the boiling water, standing on the false +bottom of the canner until they are cool enough to handle with no +danger of burning the hands. This slow method of cooling not only +tends to create "flat sour," but it is apt to result in +cloudy-looking jars and in mushy vegetables.</p> +<p>For this reason you should have in your equipment a lifter with +which you can lift out the hot jars without the hands touching +them. If you use a rack with wire handles this answers the same +purpose.</p> +<p>This "flat sour," which is not at all dangerous from the +standpoint of health, must not be confused with the botulinus +bacteria, which is an entirely different thing.</p> +<p>"Flat sour," perfectly harmless, appears often with +inexperienced canners. Botulinus, harmful, appears rarely. You need +not be at all alarmed about eating either "flat sour" or botulinus, +because the odor from spoiled goods is so distasteful—it +really resembles rancid cheese—that you would never get a +spoon of it to your mouth.</p> +<p>If you are debating whether this jar or that jar of soup or +vegetables is spoiled, do not <i>taste</i> the contents of the jar. +<i>Smell</i> it. Tasting might poison you if you happened on the +botulinus bacteria, which is so rare it need alarm no one; whereas +smelling is perfectly safe.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TIME-TABLE FOR SOUPS</b></p> +<br> +<h3>GRAY SOUP WITHOUT STOCK</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Peck ripe tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Scald 1½</td> +<td align='left'>Remove core and stem end.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Head cabbage<br> +1 Dozen carrots<br> +1 White turnip<br> +2 Pounds string beans<br> +1 Pound okra<br> +3 Red peppers</td> +<td align='left'>5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into cubes after blanching</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Peck spinach</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>Steam 15 minutes or until thoroughly wilted.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>4</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small pieces after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Small beets</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into slices after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Ears sweet corn</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut from cob after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Salt</td> +<td>..</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT STOCK, USING DRY LEGUMES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Pounds dried Lima beans<br> +4 Pounds dried peas</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak over night, then boil<br> +for one half hour.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>16 Pounds carrots<br> +6 Pounds cabbage<br> +3 Pounds celery<br> +6 Pounds turnips</td> +<td align='left'>3<br> +3<br> +3<br> +3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small cubes after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Pounds okra</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into slices after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pound onions</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Chop fine after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Pounds parsley Salt</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into pieces after blanching.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Stock Soups)</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>25 Pounds beef hocks, joints and bones</td> +<td align='left'>Simmer for 6 or 7 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons water</td> +<td align='left'>Should make 5 Gallons stock.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +40.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 40.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 30.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 30.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 25.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP WITH STOCK</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>¼ Pounds dried Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pound rice</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>¼ Pound pearl barley</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook 2 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pounds carrots<br> +1 Pounds onions<br> +1 Potato<br> +1 Red Pepper</td> +<td align='left'>3<br> +3<br> +3<br> +3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small cubes after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +4 Ounces salt</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour and soup stock.<br> +Boil 3 minutes and add salt<br> +Pour over vegetables and fill cans.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CREAM OF PEA SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>8 Pounds dried peas</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Soak over-night and cook until soft.<br> +Mash peas fine.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons soup stock</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Add stock and boil. Put through sieve.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour<br> +10 Ounces sugar<br> +3 Ounces salt</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour, sugar and salt<br> +and add to stock. Cook until thick.<br> +Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 80.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 70.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CREAM OF POTATO SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1½ Pounds potatoes sliced thin<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +3 Ounces salt<br> +¼ Teaspoonful pepper<br> +½ Pound butter<br> +3 Tablespoonfuls flour</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Boil potatoes and stock<br> +10 minutes.<br> +Add salt, pepper, butter and boil<br> +5 minutes. Make flour<br> +into paste and add.<br> +Cook 3 minutes and can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 65.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>BEAN SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3 Pounds dried beans</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds ham</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cut ham into ¼ inch cubes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Gallons water<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +Salt</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Boil beans, ham and water<br> +until beans are soft.<br> +Mash beans fine. Add<br> +stock and salt. Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +120.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 120.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 90.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 60.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CHICKEN SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Chicken Soups)</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>30 Pounds chicken<br> +10 Gallons cold water.<br> +Should make 10 gallons<br> +stock when finished</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Simmer 5 hours. Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CHICKEN GUMBO</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds ham</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cut ham into small cubes and boil 30 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3 Pounds chicken</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Mince chicken.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound onions</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Chop onions.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons chicken soup stock<br> +½ Pound butter<br> +¼ Pound salt<br> +3 Ounces powdered okra<br> +mixed with pint of<br> +water</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Add all this to soup stock.<br> +Add butter and salt. Boil<br> +10 minutes. Then add<br> +okra mixed with water.<br> +Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VI' id="CHAPTER_VI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> +<h3>JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND +SIRUPS</h3> +<br> +<p>For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is +fairly acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is +just a little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or +overripe fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. +This fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. +Such fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin +and are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits.</p> +<p>The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of +pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, +though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other +marmalades.</p> +<p>Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be +made into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and +lemons to them while cooking.</p> +<p>So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is +whether or not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed +over jelly that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn +the simple test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains +pectin or not is a very easy matter.</p> +<p>Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol—90 to 95 per +cent.—and add to it one tablespoonful of <i>cooked</i> juice +that has been cooled. The effect of the alcohol is to bring +together the pectin in a jelly-like mass. If a large quantity of +pectin is present it will appear in one mass or clot which may be +gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I said <i>cooked</i> juice. +It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not found in the +juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the cooked +juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice.</p> +<p>There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, +raw grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin.</p> +<p>This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but +it also gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to +juice. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous +mass or clot this indicates that you should use three-fourths as +much sugar as juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is +less than three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less +sugar. If the pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin +to make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for +flavoring ice cream or some form of cooking.</p> +<p>By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the +jelly texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be +better.</p> +<p>After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by +washing, stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an +acid-proof kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to +prevent burning—about one cup of water to every four or five +quarts of fruit. The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so +forth. With less juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough +water to cover, or follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. +Use the cores, skins and seeds; these improve the flavor and color +of the jelly.</p> +<p>Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered +kettle, stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When +the simmering point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked +wooden masher. When the fruit is tender or has a transparent +appearance, it is ready to strain.</p> +<p>The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a +large mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie +opposite corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a +flannel or felt bag for straining the juice.</p> +<p>What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When +this Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty +minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so +many housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do +this, empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving +kettle, cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then +cover, bring slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice +that drips out is called Extraction Two.</p> +<p>The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out +whether there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin +is present, you can repeat the operation and get Extraction +Three.</p> +<p>Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you +can get as many as five extractions.</p> +<p>You may say, "Why bother with extractions—why not squeeze +the juice and be done with it?" You will get clearer, +better-flavored and more glasses of jelly if you will make the +extractions than if you squeeze the jelly bag.</p> +<p>I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but +usually combine Extraction Two and Three.</p> +<p>The next step in jelly making is vitally important—that +is, how much sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is +where many housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the +same proportion of sugar to all juices.</p> +<p>To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of +sugar must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough +or unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must +be used.</p> +<p>Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in +pectin that they require equal amounts of sugar and +juice—that is, to every cup of extracted currant and grape +juice we add one cup of sugar.</p> +<p>Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup +of sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water +in the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of +juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples.</p> +<p>It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large +amount of water is added than from the juicy fruits.</p> +<p>I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the +fruit juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the +boiling, in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should +the sugar be hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the +sugar in the middle of the jelly-making process than at the +beginning or the end. Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, +so as to lose as little sugar as possible.</p> +<p>If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and +thus the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it +in a granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, +and stir occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it.</p> +<p>After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as +quickly as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent +boiling. A steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will +produce good results.</p> +<p>Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from +eight to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or +five minutes.</p> +<p>Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty +minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen +minutes.</p> +<p>The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking +thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. +It is the one sure, reliable test.</p> +<p>The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you +want a very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it +immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees.</p> +<p>If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour +the boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held +horizontally. If the sirup is done two drops will break +simultaneously from the side of the spoon.</p> +<p>Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw +a path through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and +the juice does not run together, the jellying point has been +reached.</p> +<p>When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from +the fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized +glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to +prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full.</p> +<p>Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at +one time. If new at the game make only four, because there is +danger of the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be +removed.</p> +<p>When the jellies are well set cover them with <i>hot</i>, not +merely melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs +that may fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the +clean tin or aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool +place after proper labeling.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN JELLY MAKING</b></p> +<p>1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and +contains a large amount of pectin.</p> +<p>2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so +forth.</p> +<p>3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash +berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added +if necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small +pieces; add half as much water as fruit.</p> +<p>4. Pour into dampened bag.</p> +<p>5. Drain through closely woven bag.</p> +<p>6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of +sugar to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of +pectin, the fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different +fruits. To make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold +cooked fruit juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake +gently. Allow to stand one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of +the juice forms a lump add three-fourths as much sugar as juice in +making jelly. If the precipitate—pectin—is not held +together in a lump or is less than three-fourths of the whole +volume of juice, add less sugar in proportion to juice. If less +than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to make the jelly, or can +the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and so forth.</p> +<p>7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook.</p> +<p>8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or +midway in the process.</p> +<p>9. Stir until sugar is dissolved.</p> +<p>10. Cook rapidly, but not hard.</p> +<p>11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a +clean spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from +it. If done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of +spoon. Some prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of +spoon. Better still, use thermometer.</p> +<p>12. Remove from fire and skim.</p> +<p>13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses.</p> +<p>14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a +little coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily.</p> +<p>15. Cover, label and store.</p> +<p>No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter +into consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the +amount of water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of +sugar to juice; the more sugar used, the less time needed.</p> +<br> +<p><b>JAMS AND BUTTERS</b></p> +<p>Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies.</p> +<p>1. Carefully wash berries and fruits.</p> +<p>2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not +convenient, use measuring cup.</p> +<p>3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces.</p> +<p>4. Add enough water to prevent sticking.</p> +<p>5. Stir to keep from burning.</p> +<p>6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken.</p> +<p>7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part +fruit. That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a +pound of sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup +of sugar.</p> +<p>8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently.</p> +<p>9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. +When a little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is +thick enough.</p> +<p>10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or +crystallized ginger can be added if desired.</p> +<p>11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of +the top.</p> +<p>12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and +store.</p> +<p>Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made +much as are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and +grapefruit marmalades.</p> +<p>Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and +raisins are often added to conserves.</p> +<p>Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least +three-fourths of the weight of the fruit.</p> +<p>If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or +other wax tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the +cold-pack method of canning. You may have containers with screw or +bail tops which you wish to use in this way. The following is one +recipe showing how to proceed.</p> +<p><b>Cherry Preserves</b>. Place one gallon of water in a kettle +and add ten pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen +minutes. Add twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until +product is boiling at a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in +shallow pans. Pack into glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, +not tight. Cap and tip if using enameled tin cans. If using a +hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize twenty minutes; if using a +water-seal outfit, a five-pound steam-pressure outfit or a +pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen minutes. Remove jars. +Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the joints. Wrap jars with +paper to prevent bleaching and store. When using pressure-cooker +outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during period of +sterilization.</p> +<p><b>Fruit Juices</b>. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and +delicious drink and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries +and other small fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a +cloth sack, heated for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs +freely, and allowed to drip.</p> +<p>Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the +sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of +the bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 +degrees, or until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the +cooker, and keep at this temperature one hour and a half to two +hours; or heat to 200 degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise +to the top of the water, and hold at this temperature for thirty +minutes. The hot water comes up to the neck of the bottle. Cork +without removing the cotton. If canned in jars close the jar +partly, and seal tight after cooking.</p> +<p>Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a +higher temperature injures the flavor.</p> +<p><b>Strawberry Preserves. 1.</b> Add thirty-five ounces of sugar +to one-half pint of water; bring to a boil and skim.</p> +<p>With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively +without floating and no sirup will be left over.</p> +<p>To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds +of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it +registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical +thermometer. If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is +very heavy—about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum.</p> +<p>Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of +the hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as +possible. Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not +fasten tightly.</p> +<p>Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if +possible. Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the +boiling water for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least +twenty-five minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the +conclusion of the operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap +to make sure that the seal is absolutely tight.</p> +<p><b>Recipe Number 2.</b> The following method is preferred by +some because it leaves more of the natural color in the +preserves:</p> +<p>To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add +twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour +juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook +to 222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack +and sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for +all other berries.</p> +<p>When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the +table, they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick +sirup which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a +cooling summer drink.</p> +<p><b>Strawberries—Sun Preserves.</b> Select firm ripe +berries; hull and rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a +single layer; sprinkle sugar over them. Pour over them a thick +sirup made of one quart of water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled +until very thick.</p> +<p>Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them +to stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly +glasses and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin +cans. Put the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or +seal if using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time +given below for the particular type of outfit used:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water seal, 214 degrees</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, +and test the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent +bleaching.</p> +<p>When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on +preserves, remember to keep the valve open during the +sterilizing.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING</b></p> +<p>Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a +fine flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter +apples are best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly +in the spring, add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple +juice.</p> +<p>Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple.</p> +<p>Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious +juices and shrubs for summer beverages.</p> +<p>The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 +minutes.</p> +<p>Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are +rubbed through a sieve.</p> +<p>Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good +combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and +strawberries.</p> +<p>Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, +pear and pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin.</p> +<p>One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious +jelly; currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 +to July 3.</p> +<p>Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days.</p> +<p>Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too +much sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are +satisfactory.</p> +<p>If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than +do green-as-grass gooseberries.</p> +<p>Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to +test for pectin before completing the process, to save time and +effort.</p> +<p>Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for +conserves.</p> +<p>An underripe, acid plum is best.</p> +<p>Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly.</p> +<p>Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the +fruit being used for preserving.</p> +<p>Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a +rain, for they will have absorbed so much water as to make it +difficult, without excessive boiling, to get the juice to +"jell."</p> +<p>Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. +It will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an +otherwise expensive jam "go a long way."</p> +<p>Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized +in many ways.</p> +<p>Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges.</p> +<p><b>Lemon Marmalade</b>. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are +sliced, put in kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 +hours; then boil 2 hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour +longer.</p> +<p>Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are +usually combined with grapefruit.</p> +<p>All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh +and not overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if +made from fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the +berries are still green.</p> +<p><b>CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING</b></p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>KIND OF FRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>CHARACTER OF FRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>HOW TO PREPARE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED FOR +COOKING</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT OF SUGAR NEEDED FOR +JELLYING</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>APPLES, SOUR</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash, discard any unsound portions, +cut into small pieces. Include seeds skin and core</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>APRICOTS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Not suitable for jelly making. +Excellent for jam.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Leave a few stones in for +flavor.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam use just enough water to +keep from burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of apricots for jam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BLACKBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BLUEBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making; make a +sweet jelly</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CRANBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CHERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pit the cherries for jam</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, use just enough water to +keep from burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of cherries for jam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CRAB APPLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Same as apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CURRANTS, RED</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Do not remove stems for jelly</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +currants</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CURRANTS, BLACK</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Better for jam</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Remove stems</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Enough water to keep from +sticking</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of currants</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GRAPES, UNRIPE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash, do not stem; use stems</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +grapes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GOOSEBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>"Head and tail," using scissors</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +gooseberries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PEACHES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Peaches, apples and raisins make a +delicious conserve</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Just enough water to keep from +burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PINEAPPLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Prepare as for table use</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jams, enough water to keep from +burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PLUMS, GREENGAGE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Suitable for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Mash fruit and remove stems; cook +stones with fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 quart of water for each peck of +fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PLUMS, DAMSON</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Suitable for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wipe and pick over; prick several +times with large pin</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 quart of water for every peck of +plums</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>QUINCES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making, if not +too ripe. If so, add crab apple</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cut out the blossom end. Mash and +cut in quarters</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +quinces</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RASPBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash them thoroughly, but do not let +them soak in the water</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RHUBARB</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making. Better for jam.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash and cut into small pieces</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, half as much water as +fruit.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>STRAWBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash and remove hulls.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, just enough water to keep +from burning.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of pulp.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>CITRUS FRUITS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>ORANGES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making and +marmalade</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For orange marmalade weigh oranges +slice cross- wise with sharp knife as thin as possible; remove +seed.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cook in water to cover.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Three-quarters their weight in +sugar.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>LEMONS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making and to +supply pectin to other fruits</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For marmalade 9 oranges and 6 lemons +are a good combination</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>8 pounds of sugar</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GRAPEFRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Best for marmalades</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Grapefruit is sliced very thin, seed +removed.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Three-quarters their weight in +sugar.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>WILD FRUITS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, BARBERRIES, +GRAPES, BEACH PLUMS.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All excellent for jelly making.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Prepare as other fruits.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Just enough water to keep from +burning.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VII' id="CHAPTER_VII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> +<h3>MEAT</h3> +<br> +<p>Canned meat adds variety to the diet in the winter-time and +makes a pleasant change from the cured and smoked meats. You put +meat into jars in the raw state and extend the sterilizing period +or you can cook the meat partially or completely and then sterilize +for a shorter period of time. Of course a reliable method of +canning meat must be used, such as the cold-pack process, where the +sterilizing is done in the tin or jar in either boiling water or +steam under pressure. We usually recommend the partial cooking, +roasting or boiling of the meat before canning especially for +beginners. If you are a beginner in the business of cold-pack +canning then by all means cook the meat before putting it in cans. +If you have canned peas, beans and corn successfully for years then +you are ready for all kinds of raw meat canning.</p> +<p>To save criticism of the cold-pack method of canning meat and to +guard against any danger from eating poorly prepared and improperly +sterilized meat we do not urge beginners to experiment with meat, +although the meat can be safely canned by any one whether new at +the canning game or a veteran in it if directions are carefully +followed. But it is the big "If" that we have to watch.</p> +<p>Many farmers and farmerettes are canning meats of all kinds all +over the country and there is never a can lost. We need more meat +canning done at home and you can do it if you will practice +cleanliness in all your work and follow directions.</p> +<p>The fear of getting botulinus bacteria from eating canned meat +is just a "bug-a-boo." It should be clearly understood that +botulism is one of the very rare maladies. The chances for getting +it by eating canned goods, say the experts, is rather less than the +chances from dying of lockjaw every time you scratch your finger. +To regard every can as a source of botulism is worse than regarding +every dog as a source of hydrophobia. Moreover, for the very timid, +there is the comforting certainty that the exceedingly slight +danger is completely eliminated by re-cooking the canned food for a +short time before eating it.</p> +<p>There are always a few cases of illness traceable to bad food, +not only to canned food but to spoiled meats, fish, bad milk, +oysters and a number of things. There are also cases of injury and +death by street accidents, but we do not for that reason stop using +the streets. If you put good meat into the can and do your canning +right then you will have good results. Never put into a can meat +that is about ready to spoil, thinking thereby to "save it."</p> +<p>If you want to be absolutely sure, even if the jar of meat seems +perfectly fresh when it is opened, you can re-cook the meat, thus +insuring yourself against any possibility of botulinus poisoning. +So you see, there is nothing at all alarming about that frightful +sounding word "botulinus." Using fresh products, doing the canning +properly and reheating before serving eliminates all danger.</p> +<p>For canning meat, tin cans are in most respects superior to +glass, as they eliminate all danger of breakage, preserve the meat +just as well as glass, and by excluding the light prevent any +change of color. If you use glass jars be sure to get the best +brand of jar rubbers on the market. This is very important.</p> +<p>If, as I have said, you are a beginner—cook the meat first +by frying, roasting, broiling, baking or stewing—just as you +would prepare it for immediate use. The meat is usually seasoned +according to taste and is cooked until thoroughly heated through, +before putting in the cans. Do not cook until tender as that will +be too long with the additional sterilizing. If too tender it will +fall apart and be unappetizing although perfectly good. See that +nothing is wasted in the canning. If you are canning a young steer +or a calf you would go about it as follows:</p> +<p>Select the meat that you would ordinarily want. Slice the meat +wanted for steak. What is not suited for either of these can be +used for stews, or be put through the meat grinder and made into +sausage meat, formed into little cakes, fried and canned. What meat +is left clinging to all bones will be utilized when the bones are +boiled for soup stock. The sinews, the head and the feet, after +being cleaned may be used for soup stock also.</p> +<p>The liver should be soaked in water, the coarse veins cut out +and the liver skinned and prepared any way that is desired before +canning it or it may be made into liver sausage. The heart can be +used for goulash. The kidneys should be soaked in salt water, split +open and the little sack removed; then they can be either stewed or +fried and then canned. The sweetbreads may be prepared in various +ways and then canned.</p> +<p>The brain is soaked in water to remove the blood, and the +membrane enclosing it is removed. It can be fried or prepared in +any favorite way and then canned. The ox tail is used for soup. The +tongue is soaked in water, scrubbed, cleaned, salted, boiled, +skinned and packed in cans with some soup stock added.</p> +<p>If you do not care to use the head for soup stock and if it +comes from a young animal, split it open and soak in cold water. +Use a brush and scrub thoroughly. Remove the eyes and mucous +membrane of the nostrils and then boil it. After it is boiled, +remove all meat and make a mock turtle stew or ragout. Prepare the +tripe as for table use and then can.</p> +<p>After the soup stock is made and the bones are cracked for a +second cooking, the bones need not be thrown away. You can dry +them, run them through a bone crusher and either feed them to the +chickens or use them for fertilizer. In this way not a particle of +the dressed animal is wasted.</p> +<p>Here are a few ways to utilize the cuts that are really +"left-overs."</p> +<br> +<p><b>GOULASH</b></p> +<ul> +<li>2 Pounds of meat scraps which can consist of beef, veal or +pork.</li> +<li>2 Ounces of any fat.</li> +<li>2 Onions chopped fine.</li> +<li>1 Stalk celery, cut in small pieces.</li> +<li>2 Carrots.</li> +<li>2 Cups tomatoes either canned or fresh.</li> +<li>1 Bay leaf.</li> +<li>6 Whole cloves.</li> +<li>6 Peppercorns.</li> +<li>1 Blade mace or a little thyme or both.</li> +<li>A little flour.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoonful chopped parsley.</li> +<li>Salt and paprika to taste.</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut the meat into one inch squares and roll in flour. Melt the +fat in the frying pan, add the vegetables (onions, celery, carrots) +and brown lightly: add the meat and brown. Stir with a spoon or +fork to prevent burning. When browned empty into a pan.</p> +<p>Put the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, mace and thyme into a +cheesecloth bag and add to the meat, add tomatoes. Cover with soup +stock or water and simmer 45 minutes if it is going to be canned. +If for immediate use, 2 hours will be necessary to thoroughly cook +it.</p> +<p>Remove the spices, season with salt, paprika and the chopped +parsley. You can add Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce if desired. +Use only small quantities as these sauces are very strong in their +distinctive flavor. Put hot mixture into cans and sterilize.</p> +<p>If the different spices are not at hand a good goulash can be +made by using the meat, fat, onions, tomatoes, flour, salt and +pepper and omitting the rest of the recipe.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIVER SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>Beef, veal, or hog liver. Remove the membrane and cut away the +large blood vessels. Soak in water 1 to 2 hours to draw out blood. +Boil until done. When cooled put through a food chopper or grate +finely. Take half as much boiled fat pork as liver. Divide this fat +into two portions; chop one portion into one-quarter inch cubes; +pass the other portion through the food chopper; mix all together +thoroughly; add salt, ground cloves, pepper, and a little grated +onion to taste. A little thyme and marjoram may be added to suit +taste. (For a liver weighing 1½ pounds add ¾ pounds +fat pork, 3 to 4 teaspoonfuls salt, ½ teaspoonful cloves, +½ teaspoonful pepper, 1 small onion, ¼ teaspoonful +thyme, and pinch of marjoram.) This mixture is stuffed into large +casings. (If no casings are available, make casings of clean white +muslin.) Cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 +minutes. Pack into cans, fill in with the water in which the +sausages were boiled. Sterilize.</p> +<p>This liver sausage may also be made from the raw liver and raw +pork, but in that case the sterilizing is for a longer period, as +the time-table indicates. This recipe is recommended by the United +States Department of Agriculture.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HEAD CHEESE</b></p> +<p>Cut a hog's head into four pieces. Remove the brains, ears, +skin, snout and eyes. Cut off the fattest parts for lard. Put the +lean and bony parts to soak over night in cold water in order to +extract the blood and dirt. When the head is cleaned put it over +the fire to boil, using water enough to cover it. Boil until the +meat separates readily from the bones. Then remove it from the fire +and pick out all the bones. Drain off the liquor, saving a part of +it for future use. Chop the meat up finely with a chopping knife. +Return it to the kettle and pour on enough of the liquor to cover +the meat. Let it boil slowly for fifteen minutes to a half-hour. +Season to taste with salt and pepper just before removing it from +the fire. Bay leaves, a little ground cloves and allspice may be +added and boiled a short time in the soup. Pack while hot in cans +to within ½ inch of top. Sterilize. This head cheese is +always served cold.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CORNED BEEF</b></p> +<p>After beef has been properly corned for three weeks, remove the +meat from the brine. Soak for two hours in clear water, changing +water once. Place in a wire basket and boil slowly for half an +hour. Remove from the boiling water, plunge into cold water, and +remove gristle, bone and excessive fat. Cut into small pieces and +pack closely into cans. Add no salt and proceed as in other +canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED PORK</b></p> +<p>After the animal has been killed, cool quickly and keep the pork +cool for at least 24 hours. Can only lean portions, using the fat +to make lard. Place meat in a wire basket or cheesecloth and boil +30 minutes, or roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Cut into small +sections and pack closely into cans. Add salt and proceed with +remainder of process.</p> +<p>Other pieces of beef and pork: Hamburg steak, sausage, venison, +squirrel, raccoon, opossum, lamb, are canned as follows:</p> +<p>After cleaning, season and fry, roast, stew, or bake in oven as +though preparing for serving directly on the table. Cook until meat +is about three fourths done. Pack while hot into sanitary tin cans +or glass jars. Pour over the meat the hot liquids, gravies, +dressings, etc., or hot water. Add salt and proceed as in any other +cold-pack canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO CAN POULTRY AND GAME WITH THE BONES REMOVED</b></p> +<p>Kill bird and draw immediately; wash carefully and cool; then +cut into convenient sections. Boil until the meat can be removed +from the bones; remove from the boiling liquid and take out all +bones; pack closely into glass jars or enameled cans; fill jars +with the hot liquid after it has been concentrated one half; add 1 +level teaspoonful salt to every quart of meat for seasoning; put +rubbers and top of jars in place but not tight. If using enameled +cans completely seal. Sterilize the length of time given in the +<a href='#canning_meat'>time-table on page 108</a> of this book. +After the sterilizing remove the jars; tighten the covers if glass +was used; invert to cool and test joints. Wrap with paper to +prevent bleaching.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FRIED SPRING CHICKEN</b></p> +<p>After cleaning and preparing the chickens, season and fry as +though for serving directly on the table. Cook until the meat is +about three-fourths done. If a whole spring chicken, break the neck +and both legs and fold around body of chicken. Roll up tight, tie a +string around the chicken and drop this hot, partially fried +product into sanitary tin cans or glass jars. A quart tin can (No. +3) will hold two to four small chickens. Pour liquid from the +griddle or frying pan into the can over the chicken. Proceed, as in +any other canning, with the sealing, sterilizing and removing of +the jars. Chicken fries canned in the late fall preserve the meat +at the most delicious stage and furthermore we avoid the expense of +feeding the chickens throughout the winter.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO CAN COCKERELS</b></p> +<p>When cockerels reach the point in their growth where it is no +longer profitable to feed them, and when they are wanted for home +use during the winter months they should be canned. This method of +handling the cockerel not only saves money by cutting down the feed +bill, but it places in the pantry or cellar the means of a +delicious chicken dinner at a time of the year when the price of +poultry is high.</p> +<p>The bird should not be fed for at least twenty-four hours before +killing. It should be killed by the approved method and picked dry. +When the feathers have been removed and the pin feathers drawn the +bird should be cooled rapidly. This rapid cooling after killing is +essential to a good flavor in canned meat. As soon as the bird has +been properly cooled it should be singed and washed carefully with +a brush.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CUTTING UP AND DRAWING CHICKENS</b></p> +<p>Mr. George Farrell, a most expert canner, tells us how to go +about this job of canning chicken.</p> +<p>In preparing the bird for canning, care should be taken in +drawing it so that the contents of the digestive tract do not come +in contact with the meat.</p> +<p>1. Remove the tops of the wings, cutting at the first joint.</p> +<p>2. Remove the wings.</p> +<p>3. Remove the foot, cutting at the knee joint.</p> +<p>4. Remove the leg, cutting at the hip or saddle joint.</p> +<p>5. Cut the removed portion of the leg into two parts at the +joint.</p> +<p>6. Place the bird so the back of the head is toward the +operator, cut through the neck bone with a sharp knife but do not +cut the windpipe or gullet.</p> +<p>7. With the index finger separate the gullet and windpipe from +the skin of the neck.</p> +<p>8. Cut through the skin of the neck.</p> +<p>9. With a pointed knife cut through the skin from the upper part +of the neck, thus separated, to the wing.</p> +<p>10. Leave the head attached to the gullet and windpipe and +loosen these from the neck down as far as the crop.</p> +<p>11. With a sharp pointed knife cut around the shoulder blade, +pull it out of position and break it.</p> +<p>12. Find the white spots on the ribs and cut through the ribs on +these white spots.</p> +<p>13. Cut back to the vent; cut around it, and loosen.</p> +<p>14. Begin at the crop and remove the digestive tract from the +bird, pulling it back toward the vent.</p> +<p>15. Remove the lungs and kidneys with the point of a knife.</p> +<p>16. Cut off the neck close to the body.</p> +<p>17. Cut through the backbone at the joint or just above the +diaphragm.</p> +<p>18. Remove the oil sack.</p> +<p>19. Separate the breast from the backbone by cutting through on +the white spots.</p> +<p>20. Cut the fillet from each side of the breastbone.</p> +<p>21. Cut in sharp at the point of the breastbone, turning the +knife and cutting away the wishbone with the meat. Bend in the +bones of the breastbone.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING CHICKEN</b></p> +<p>Use a one quart jar. Caution: Do not pack the giblets with the +meat.</p> +<p>1. Have the jar hot.</p> +<p>2. Pack the saddle with a thigh inside.</p> +<p>3. Pack the breastbone with a thigh inside.</p> +<p>4. Pack the backbone and ribs with a leg inside.</p> +<p>5. Pack the legs large end downward, alongside the +breastbone.</p> +<p>6. Pack the wings.</p> +<p>7. Pack the wishbone.</p> +<p>8. Pack the fillets.</p> +<p>9. Pack the neck-bone.</p> +<p>10. Pour on boiling water to within one inch of the top; add a +level teaspoonful of salt; place the rubber and cap in position, +partially seal, and sterilize for the length of time given below +for the particular type of outfit used:</p> +Water bath, home made or commercial (pint or quart jars) 1 hour<br> +Water seal, 214° 3 hours<br> +5 pounds steam-pressure 2 hours<br> +10 to 15 pounds steam-pressure 1 hour<br> +<p>Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. +Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PIGEONS</b></p> +<p><i>Young</i> pigeons. Dress pigeons, wash well, and roast for 30 +minutes basting frequently. Some pieces of fat bacon put over the +breasts will prevent them getting too dry.</p> +<p><i>Old</i> pigeons. Dress, wash, and fry pigeons.</p> +<p>Brown some onions in the fat with the pigeons, using a pound of +onions to a dozen birds. Cover with hot water after pigeons and +onions are a golden brown; simmer until the meat is tender and can +be removed from the bones. Add from time to time boiling water, if +necessary, in order to keep the birds covered. When tender, take +meat from bones. Return the meat to the liquor, salt to taste and +pack while boiling into cans or jars, fill with liquor to within +one-half inch of top.</p> +<p>All small game birds may be canned like pigeons. Blackbirds may +be treated like pigeons. They make an excellent stew.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PLAIN CANNING OF TENDER COTTON-TAILS OR TWICE-SKINNED +JACK-RABBITS</b></p> +<p>1. Blanch in boiling water until the meat is white.</p> +<p>2. Cold dip.</p> +<p>3. Pack tightly in sterilized jars.</p> +<p>4. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt to quart.</p> +<p>5. Adjust rubber and lid.</p> +<p>6. Sterilize in hot water bath for three hours.</p> +<p>7. Remove from bath and complete the seal.</p> +<p>Rabbit meat thus canned, may be served in various appetizing +ways.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RABBIT SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>For rabbit sausage and mince-meat only the backs and legs of the +carcass are used, discarding the sinews.</p> +<p>Grind together equal parts of rabbit and fat pork (or at least +¼ fat pork). The pork may be salt pork if all salt is +omitted from the mixture.</p> +<p>To every ten pounds of the above add 6 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 +teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sage. Mix +thoroughly. Shape in flat cakes and fry till nicely browned. Pack +tightly in jars, pour over the fat in which the sausage was fried, +and sterilize.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RABBIT MINCE-MEAT</b></p> +<p>Rabbit mince-meat is used a great deal on the plains and large +quantities of it are canned. The mince-meat may be made by simply +substituting the rabbit meat for beef in your favorite recipe. The +following is an inexpensive recipe:</p> +<ul> +<li>1 Cup of rabbit meat which has been parboiled in salted water +and drained, then chopped finely.</li> +<li>1 Cup chopped apple.</li> +<li>½ Cup finely chopped suet.</li> +<li>½ Cup seeded raisins.</li> +<li>½ Cup currants.</li> +<li>1 Cup molasses or syrup.</li> +<li>2 Tablespoonfuls sugar.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoon cider, lemon juice, fruit juice or vinegar.</li> +<li>¼ Cup chopped watermelon pickles or green tomato +pickles.</li> +<li>1 Teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg.</li> +<li>1 Teaspoon of salt.</li> +<li>½ Teaspoon cloves, mace or other spice.</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix together all ingredients except the meat, add the meat broth +and simmer for about 1 hour. Add the meat. Pour into jars, and +sterilize. Remove and seal.</p> +<br> +<p>STEPS IN CANNING MEAT AND GAME</p> +<p>For all meat, poultry or game canning the following general +instructions should be kept in mind.</p> +<p>1. Sterilize the jars, caps and rubbers.</p> +<p>2. Grade the meat for size.</p> +<p>3. Cut up into convenient portions for cooking or canning.</p> +<p>4. Sauté, fry or bake, broil or stew as desired. This +step can be omitted if you are an experienced canner.</p> +<p>5. Pack in sterilized, hot jars or tin cans.</p> +<p>6. Add 1 level teaspoonful salt per quart of meat for seasoning +if not already seasoned.</p> +<p>7. If glass jars put on rubber and seal, not too tight. Seal tin +cans.</p> +<p>8. Process in boiling water or steam under pressure.</p> +<p>9. Remove, completely seal the jar.</p> +<p>10. Invert to cool and test the joint.</p> +<p>11. Label and store.</p> +<br> +<p>If you can in tin use the enamel or lacquered cans. A slight +amount of water in the bottom of the jars of prepared meat will +insure quicker sterilization of the air remaining in the jar. Where +meat has been stewed the liquor can be poured into the jar for +filling. If you use a steam-pressure cooker outfit of course the +time of cooking will be much shorter than if you use a wash-boiler +or some other homemade outfit. If you cook in boiling water we call +that the water-bath method.</p> +<p>The following data will be of interest to those who contemplate +canning meat.</p> +<p>Hog on foot—weight 500.</p> +<p>Liver, heart and a part of the ribs were eaten at the time of +butchering, therefore, not canned. The remainder of the ribs canned +six No. 3 cans:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ham</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Shoulder</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Roast</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sausage</td> +<td align='left'>26, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hash</td> +<td align='left'>4, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gravy (which is also called stock)</td> +<td align='left'>5, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The sausage weighed 52 lbs. before it was canned, making 2 lbs. +to the can.</p> +<p>There were 200 lbs. of fat for lard. After it was rendered there +were 176 lbs. of lard and 20 lbs. of cracklings.</p> +<a name='canning_meat' id="canning_meat"></a> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TIME TO STERILIZE PRODUCTS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING WATER-SEAL OUTFIT AT +214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING STEAM PRESSURE 5 +POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING PRESSURE COOKER 15 +POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>PARTIALLY COOKED MEAT OF +ALL KINDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Roast beef<br> +Corned beef<br> +Sweetbreads<br> +Tongue<br> +Brains<br> +Headcheese<br> +Spareribs<br> +Kidneys<br> +Sausages and<br> +other meats<br> +Rabbits<br> +Pigeon<br> +Chicken<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>UNCOOKED OR RAW MEAT</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Beef<br> +Pork<br> +Veal and all<br> +other meats<br> +Poultry and game<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>All meat stocks<br> +with or without<br> +vegetables and<br> +cereals<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>NOTE.—This time-table is for No. 2 and No. 3 tin cans or +pint and quart glass jars. If larger cans or jars are used more +time must be allowed for the sterilizing. If canning in tin, +scratch on the can at the time of sealing the initial of the +contents. For instance—S.R. means spareribs; G. means +goulash; R.B. means roast beef. You can make out your list and mark +accordingly.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VIII' id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> +<h3>FISH</h3> +<br> +<p>People in some sections of the country are interested in canning +mountain trout and others live where there is an abundant supply of +either fresh-water fish or salt-water fish. Heretofore we have been +wasteful and lax about the fish supply. But as we have learned to +can vegetables and meats so we are going to learn to can fish. Fish +is really canned the same in every step after preparation as peas +and corn are canned.</p> +<p>In order to have a good product, fish must be fresh when canned. +No time should be lost in handling the fish after being caught. +Putrefaction starts rapidly, and the fish must be handled promptly. +The sooner it is canned after being taken from lake, stream or +ocean, the better. Never attempt to can any fish that is stale.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PREPARATION OF FISH FOR CANNING</b></p> +<p>As soon as fish are caught it is advisable to kill them with a +knife and allow the blood to run out. Scale fish. This is easily +done if the fish is dipped in boiling water. For canning, most +varieties of fish need not be skinned. If the fish is very large +and coarse, the large back fin may be cut out and the backbone +removed, but with most varieties this is unnecessary. Cut off the +head and tail, being careful to leave no more meat than necessary +on the parts removed. Remove the entrails and the dark membrane +that in some fish (e.g., mullets) covers the abdominal cavity. +Thoroughly clean the inside. The head may be cleaned and used for +fish chowder.</p> +<p>If you wish to be sure that all blood is drawn out before +canning, place the fish in a brine made of one ounce of salt to one +quart of water. Allow the fish to soak from 10 minutes to 1 hour +according to the thickness of the fish. Never use this brine but +once. If the meat of the fish is very soft or loose, it may be +hardened by soaking in a brine (strong enough to float an Irish +potato) for from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the thickness +of the pieces and the softness of the flesh.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING THE FISH</b></p> +<p>1. Remove the fish from the brine where it has been placed in +order to draw out all the blood and to harden the texture of the +fish.</p> +<p>2. Drain well.</p> +<p>3. Cut into can lengths.</p> +<p>4. Place fish in a piece of cheesecloth or in a wire basket and +blanch in <i>boiling water</i> from three to five minutes. Three +minutes for the soft flesh fish, such as suckers, crappies, +whitefish. Fish with a firmer flesh, as pike, muskalonge and +sunfish require 5 minutes blanching. The blanching removes the +strong fish flavor and cleans the outside of the fish.</p> +<p>5. Cold-dip the fish by plunging into cold water immediately. +This makes the flesh firm.</p> +<p>6. Pack in hot jars or cans to within ½ inch from top. +Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Put on a good rubber and +partially seal the jar, completely seal tin cans.</p> +<p>7. Place jars or cans in canner and process in <i>boiling</i> +water for three hours. Three hours sterilization will insure the +keeping of all varieties of fish, providing fresh products are used +and the blanching and other work is carefully done. If canning with +a steam-pressure canner or a pressure cooker sterilize for one hour +and a half under 10 to 15 lbs. pressure.</p> +<p>8. At the end of the sterilizing period cool the jars quickly +after sealing completely. The tin cans may be cooled by immersing +them in cold water.</p> +<p>9. Store for future use.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SOFTENING OF BONES IN FISH</b></p> +<p>This can be done satisfactorily under pressure. The bones of +fish are composed of large quantities of harmless lime, bound by a +matrix of collagen, which is insoluble under ordinary conditions. +When subjected to a high temperature under pressure this collagen +is converted into gelatin and dissolved, leaving the bones soft and +friable and even edible. Bony fish, such as herring and shad, which +are too small to use otherwise are greatly improved when subjected +to steam under pressure.</p> +<p>The bones in herring are softened in 37 minutes at a temperature +of 240 degrees; shad in 1 hour; flounder 1 hour. Other fish are +fully cooked and the bones softened in times approximately +proportionate to the size of the bones.</p> +<p>The following table was made after many experiments and gives +the time required to soften the bones in many common species of +fish.</p> +<p>The term "softening" means the point in cooking when the small +bones, ribs, etc., are soft, but when the large vertebrae are not +yet sufficiently soft to be consumed along with the meat. In some +of the larger fishes where the large bones could scarcely be eaten, +even if they were softened, it would appear to be a waste of time +and fuel to carry them to a point of complete cooking, and in such +cases it ought to be sufficient to soften the small bones and +sterilize the contents of the can. For such a purpose, the +"softening" rather than the "soft" point, may be used.</p> +<p>The time periods are measured from the point when the given +pressure and temperature are reached (at the top of the cooker) to +the time when the heat is shut off. The heating-up and cooling-off +period of time are therefore not included. The fish were salted, +but no water was added.</p> +<p>Samples of fish canned during the course of these experiments +were kept six weeks at room temperature (about 68° F.) and were +then incubated at 98° F. for 48 hrs. All were sterile.</p> +<b>TIME REQUIRED TO SOFTEN THE BONES OF VARIOUS SPECIES OF FISH IN +QUART JARS OR NO. 3 TIN CANS, 10 LBS. PRESSURE, 240° F.</b> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>WEIGHT<br> +(LBS.)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>SOFTENING<br> +(MINUTES)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>SOFT<br> +(MINUTES)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BLACK BASS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-6<br> +¾ to 1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100<br> +100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120<br> +110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BLUEFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-9<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100<br> +90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BUTTERFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>CATFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2<br> +¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>CERO</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10-13</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>COD</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-16<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>FLOUNDER</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1-1¾<br> +½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HADDOCK</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3-5<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HALIBUT</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50-90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HICKORY SHAD</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>KINGFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>LEMON SOLE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2½-3½<br> +¾-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>MACKEREL</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>MACKEREL, SPANISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>PERCH, WHITE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>PERCH, YELLOW</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>POLLACK</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-7½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SALMON</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>13-19</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SEA BASS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SQUETEAGUE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2½-4<br> +¾-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SMELTS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large, per lb.<br> +Small, per lb.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-7<br> +15-20</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SNAPPER, RED</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10-15<br> +5-6</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110<br> +90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120<br> +100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SUCKER</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>TILEFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-12</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>WHITING</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<p><b>FRIED FISH</b></p> +<p>1. Clean the fish and remove entrails. Split along the back and +remove backbone.</p> +<p>2. Place in brine strong enough to float an Irish potato. Allow +fish to remain in this brine from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to +the thickness of the flesh. This draws out the blood and hardens +the meat.</p> +<p>3. Draw, wipe dry.</p> +<p>4. Cut in pieces that can go through jar or can openings.</p> +<p>5. Roll in cornmeal or other flour, dip into beaten egg and roll +in flour again.</p> +<p>6. Then put into frying basket and fry in deep fat until nicely +browned, or it can be sautéd in bacon or other fat until +well browned.</p> +<p>7. Drain well by placing pieces on coarse paper to absorb +excessive fat.</p> +<p>8. Pack into hot jars or enameled tin cans.</p> +<p>9. Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Add no liquid.</p> +<p>10. Partially seal glass jars. Completely seal tin cans.</p> +<p>11. Process 3 hours in hot water bath outfit. Process 1½ +hours in steam pressure (10 to 15 lbs. pressure).</p> +<p>12. Remove from canner. Seal glass jars. Cool quickly as +possible.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BAKED FISH</b></p> +<p>Prepare and bake fish same as for table use until half done. +Pack in hot jars, add salt and sterilize three hours in +hot-water-bath outfit or 1½ hours in steam pressure or +pressure cooker, 10 to 15 lbs. pressure.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MISCELLANEOUS FISH</b></p> +<p>Rub the fish inside and out with a mixture made as follows: to +50 pounds fish, mix 2½ pounds salt, 2½ pounds brown +sugar and 2½ ounces saltpeter. Let the fish stand in a cool +place for 48 to 60 hours with the mixture on, then wash and drain. +Fill into glass jars or enamel lined tin cans and add the following +sauce until cans are nearly filled: ¼ pound whole black +pepper, 1½ pounds salt, 1 pound of onions chopped fine, +½ ounce bay leaves, ¼ pound whole cloves, 2 quarts +cider vinegar and 25 quarts of water. Soak the pepper, cloves and +bay leaves for 48 hours in the vinegar. Put the water, salt and +onions in a kettle. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes, then add +the vinegar and spices. Let boil for one minute. Strain and it is +ready for use.</p> +<p>Sterilize for 3 hours in hot-water-bath outfit.</p> +<p>Sterilize for 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure +cooker (10 to 15 lbs. pressure).</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED FISH IN OIL</b></p> +<p>Rub fish with salt, brown sugar and saltpeter as above directed. +Wash and dry thoroughly in the sun. Spread on wire screens and dip +in oil heated to a temperature of 300 degrees. Use a strap handle +plunge thermometer to determine heat of oil. Cottonseed oil may be +used for this purpose, although olive oil is best. As soon as the +fish are cool enough to handle, pack tightly in cans, filling up +with the hot oil.</p> +<p>Sterilize 3 hours in hot-water-bath-outfit; 1½ hours in +steam pressure or pressure cooker (10 to 15 lbs.).</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED FISH IN TOMATO SAUCE</b></p> +<p>Handle same as specified under "Another Formula for +Miscellaneous Fish," except pour in the following sauce instead of +pepper, cloves, onions, etc.: Ten gallons of tomato pulp (mashed +tomatoes and juice with cores, seeds and skins removed); 1 gallon +cider vinegar, 1 pint Worcestershire sauce; 2½ pounds red +sweet peppers; 2½ pounds sugar, 2 cups salt, 2 pounds onions +(chopped fine); 1 pound West India peppers and 1 ounce Saigon +cinnamon. The fish are processed same as "Fish in Oil." Enamel +lined cans or glass jars must be used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FISH CHOWDER</b></p> +<p>The cleaned heads of any fish, the backbones cut out of large +fish with what meat adheres to them and all other fish scraps may +be used for fish chowder. Put all these parts in cold water (to +cover) and cook until all the meat can be easily removed from the +bones. Pick all the meat from the bones, strain the fish liquor and +return it with the picked fish meat to the kettle. Add the +following ingredients: To every two pounds of fish picked from +bones and the liquor in which fish was cooked add 6 onions, diced +or sliced thin; 6 potatoes, diced or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls +fat; 1 teaspoonful paprika; 2 teaspoonfuls salt or salt to +taste.</p> +<p>Cook vegetables, fat and seasonings until vegetables are half +done. Pack hot in cans and sterilize same as all other fish. When +the chowder is opened, heat and add milk according to taste.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FISH ROE</b></p> +<p>For canning be sure to use roe of freshly caught fish and only +such roe as is known to be good to eat. The roe of some fishes, +such as the garfish, is not eaten.</p> +<p>Clean the roe by removing the shreds and strings adhering to it +and wash well in cold water, being careful not to break the roe. +Soak for 2 hours in a brine made of 6 quarts of water and 6 ounces +of salt. Drain and pack in hot glass jars or enameled tin cans. Can +for the same length of time as other fish.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OYSTERS</b></p> +<p>Be sure all oysters that are to be canned are absolutely fresh, +have not "soured" and contain no spoiled oysters. Oysters are +opened by hand. All oysters should be rejected that have partly +open shells, as this is a sign that the oyster is dead and +consequently not fit to eat.</p> +<p>Rinse the oysters to prevent any pieces of shell or grit from +getting into the cans. Blanch 5 minutes. Cold-dip. If the canned +oysters are to be sold it is required by law to mark on each can +the net weight of solids or meat exclusive of liquids.</p> +<p>There have been a number of standard grades of oysters +recognized on the Baltimore market. They are given as follows: +"Standard Oysters" (four kinds).</p> +<p>No. 1 cans, containing respectively 1½, 3, 4 and 5 ounces +of meat, after being processed in the cans.</p> +<p>No. 2 cans, containing respectively 3, 6, 8 and 10 ounces of +meat.</p> +<p>"Select" and "Extra Select" Oysters contain respectively 6 +ounces and 12 ounces for No. 1 and No. 2 cans. The above are the +net weights of meats only that have been drained over a strainer +with a wire bottom of ½ inch mesh. These are the only grades +that have so far been recognized by the trade. An even balance +scale, with one platform for graduated weights and another for +articles to be weighed, is used to weigh oysters or clams. It is +suggested that those who are going to can clams or oysters find out +from their prospective customers just what requirements are as to +weights and then make their pack meet the occasion. Under no +circumstances is it advisable to make any misstatements or misbrand +in any respect.</p> +<p>After oysters have been packed in the can, fill with boiling +brine made of 5 quarts of water to ¼ lb. salt to within +½ inch from top of can. Sterilize as other fish.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLAMS</b></p> +<p>If clams are received in a muddy condition, it is advisable, +though not necessary to wash them before opening. After opening, +discard broken or discolored clams. Do not can any clams unless +absolutely fresh. Blanch. Cold-dip. Weigh out the amount of solid +meat, after draining, that is to go into each can. Weigh and label +just as oysters are weighed and labeled.</p> +<p>Fill can to within ½ inch from the top with boiling brine +made of 5 gallons of water and 1 pound of salt. Sterilize.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLAM BROTH AND CHOWDER</b></p> +<p>Place the clams, after being opened, in a kettle with enough +cold water to cover. Add a few stalks of celery. Boil for 10 +minutes. Season with salt, and pepper to taste and add 1 tablespoon +butter to every 50 or 60 large clams. Can. Clam chowder can be made +according to any recipe and then canned.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRIMPS</b></p> +<p>Shrimps when first caught are a grayish white color. They are +very delicate and spoil quickly if allowed to stand for any length +of time in a warm place. There are two general methods of canning +shrimp—the "dry pack" and "wet pack." Nearly all the trade +now calls for "wet pack" because the other always has a rather +offensive odor and the meat is never so fresh and sweet of flavor +as the "wet pack." Canned shrimp is very pleasing to the taste and +is preferred by many to lobster for salads and stews.</p> +<p><b>Wet Pack.</b> Medium sizes are preferable as very large +shrimps are apt to be too tough and too dry. Put the shrimps into a +wire scalding basket and lower into a boiling hot salt water +solution made by mixing one pound of salt to each gallon of water. +Allow the shrimps to remain in this bath for about five minutes, +then remove and drain thoroughly.</p> +<p>Peel and remove viscera (entrails). The boiling and the salt +will harden the meat and make the peeling comparatively easy. Pack +into enameled tin cans or glass jars. Nos. 1 and 1½ cans are +used almost exclusively. These sizes should contain 4½ oz +and 9 ounces of meat respectively. It is unsafe to put in more meat +than above directed, for it might cake and become solid when +processed.</p> +<p>Add a very mild brine to within ½ inch from top of can. +For the brine use 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart of boiling water. +Sterilize.</p> +<p><b>Dry Pack.</b> Handle same as above, except do not pour into +the cans any brine. The fish is packed in the cans and processed as +follows without the addition of any liquor.</p> +<p><b>Drying of Shrimps.</b> After shrimps are boiled and peeled +they may be dried. Spread on a drier of any kind and dry at a +temperature of from 110°F. to 150°F. When thoroughly dry +pack in dry clean glass jars or in parchment-paper lined boxes.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SALMON</b></p> +<p>Scale fish, clean and wipe dry. Do not wash. If the fish are +large cut in lengths to fill the cans and in sizes to pass through +can openings easily. Salmon is usually packed in No. 1 cans or in +flat cans. Fill cans with fish after it has been blanched 5 minutes +and cold dipped. Sterilize as other fish.</p> +<p>Many salmon packers lacquer the outside of their cans to prevent +rusting. This is a very advisable point. The test for unsound +salmon is the nose. If the contents issue an offensive odor, it is +unsound. Freezing does not hurt canned salmon.</p> +<br> +<p><b>AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES</b></p> +<p>The fish taught and used for packing domestic sardines belong to +the herring family and are said to be of the same species as the +sardines of France, Portugal and Spain. There are two methods +generally used in canning sardines. First, when the fish are put in +a sauce such as mustard dressing or tomato sauce, and secondly +where they are packed in oil.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING SARDINES IN SAUCE</b></p> +<p>The heads are cut off, the scales taken off and the fish +cleaned. Blanch 5 minutes; cold dip; drain and pack into the cans +dry. Cover with sauce, either mustard or tomato.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SARDINES IN OIL</b></p> +<p>The fish are prepared in the same manner as above described but +instead of blanching them, they are put in wire baskets and +immersed in boiling peanut or cottonseed oil until tender. Olive +oil might be used, but is rather expensive. When cooked, they are +drained, packed into cans in order, and the cans filled with olive +oil. It is often advisable to salt the fish while fresh and before +cooking as it improves the flavor.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CRAB MEAT</b></p> +<p>Put 5 gallons of water in a large kettle. Add ¼ lb. of +baking soda to it. When boiling vigorously throw the live crabs in +it and boil quickly for 20 minutes. Remove crabs and wash them in +cold water. Pick out all meat. Wash the meat in a brine made of 1 +ounce of salt dissolved in three quarts of water. Drain and pack in +enameled No. 1 flat cans. Sterilize. As soon as the time of +sterilizing is up, plunge the cans immediately into cold water, +otherwise crab meat discolors. For this reason, glass jars are not +so well adapted to crab meat canning as tin cans.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FLAKED CODFISH</b></p> +<p>The fish are first cleaned and the entrails removed, then the +fins are cut off. The fish are then soaked for about two hours in a +salt brine to remove the blood. This brine is made with about 10 +lbs. of salt to 8 gallons of water. The brine is then rinsed off +and the fish are cooked, either boiled or cooked by steam. When +codfish are thoroughly cooked, the meat will drop off of the bone +in pieces, and it is very white in color and crisp in texture. +These pieces are then broken in suitable sizes and are ready to +place in the cans. The cans are filled as full as possible, because +after processing the fish will shrink some.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CRAWFISH</b></p> +<p>The best way to can crawfish is to put it up in a bouillon as +follows: Water, 2 gallons; vinegar, 1 quart; cloves, 10; carrots in +slices, 6; onions in slices, 6; cloves of garlic, 3.</p> +<p>To the above should be added a good quantity of pepper to suit +the taste, a little salt and bunch of parsley and a little thyme. +Boil slowly for about an hour. Throw in the crawfish after the +intestines have been extracted; to do this take the live crawfish +in your hand and tear off the wing which is in the middle of the +tail; it will pull out at the same time a little black intestine +which is very bitter. Boil one or two minutes, never longer, put in +cans and process.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING FISH</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='center'>PRODUCT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE +SCALD OR BLANCH</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Fish of all kinds</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 to 5 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Shell fish of all kinds</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_IX' id="CHAPTER_IX"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> +<h3>EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN</h3> +<br> +<p>If the proper sanitary requirements are provided and +instructions of the cold-pack method of canning are followed, it is +entirely safe and practical to use tin cans for all kinds of +fruits, vegetables and other food products. Food +poisoning—commonly called ptomaine poisoning—and the +effects ascribed to "salts of tin" result from improper handling +and improper preparation of the product before packing, or from +allowing the product to stand in the tin after it has been opened. +The raw food products used for canning in tin must be in sound +condition, just as they must be if put into glass containers.</p> +<p>It is true that canned foods may be rendered unfit for use by +improper handling of the product before packing and that +decomposition may occur after canning, owing to insufficient +processing, improper sealing or the use of leaky containers. This +condition, however, is no more likely to be encountered in foods +put up in tin than in products canned in other types of containers. +You run no more danger of poison from your own tin-canned products +than from tin-canned food bought at the store. Most canned foods if +in a spoiled condition readily show this condition by the swelling +of the can or by odor or taste. Canned foods showing such evidences +of decomposition should not be used.</p> +<p>Certain foods which are high in protein, such as meats, peas, +beans and fish products, may undergo decomposition without making +this condition obvious to the senses. It is essential, therefore, +that the greatest care be taken to subject such products to proper +preparation and ample processing. It should be remembered that +canned foods, after opening the containers, should be treated as +perishable products and should be handled with the same precautions +that are applied when fresh products are being used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ADVANTAGES OF CANS</b></p> +<p>Many housewives ask, "Why can in tin when we have always used +glass jars?" There are many advantages in canning in tin which we +can well consider. There is no breakage as in glass; you can handle +the tin cans as carelessly as you choose and you will not hear a +snap or crack indicating a lost jar. Furthermore, tin cans are +easier to handle not only in canning but in storing.</p> +<p>The expense each year of new tin covers or new tin cans is no +more than the purchase of new rubbers and the replacement of broken +glass jars. Furthermore, one big advantage of tin over glass is +that tin cans can be cooled quickly by plunging them into cold +water immediately upon removal from the canner, and thus the +cooking is stopped at the proper moment. The product is +consequently better in form and flavor than when the cooking is +prolonged, as it must be in glass jars. Many women like the large +openings of cans because they can make better packs than when using +narrow-necked jars.</p> +<p>If you do not care to bother with the soldering you can purchase +a safe and simple device that will do the work for you. This device +is called a tin-can sealer. With a sealer no soldering is +necessary. Even an inexperienced person, by following directions +carefully, can seal a can as well as an experienced one. The sealed +cans look exactly like those purchased at the store. Two or three +cans a minute can be sealed with this device.</p> +<p>This is the way to operate a can sealer: Prepare the fruits and +vegetables as for any canning, following directions formerly given +for cold-pack canning.</p> +<p>After the fruits or vegetables have been properly prepared, +blanched and cold-dipped if necessary, place them in sanitary, +solderless cans. Put water or sirup on, according to directions. +Put the top on the can and place the can in the sealer.</p> +<p>Raise the can into the chunk by swinging the raising lever at +the bottom of the machine against the frame. Turn the crank, +rapidly at first, with the right hand, and at the same time push +the seaming-roll lever very slowly with the left hand until it will +go no farther. This is one of the most important steps in the use +of the machine. Continue to give the crank several turns after the +seaming-roll lever has gone as far as it will go. This completes +the first operation or seam.</p> +<p>Continue turning the crank with the right hand, and with the +left hand pull the seaming-roll lever until it will go no farther +in this direction. After this has been done give the crank several +more turns, and the second and final operation is complete. Bring +the seaming-roll lever back to the middle position and remove the +can. The can is then ready for sterilization.</p> +<p>Before sealing a new lot of cans or after changing for a +different size of can, one or two of the cans about to be used +should be tested for leaks. If this is done and the cans stand the +test it will be unnecessary to test the remaining cans of that same +lot. The following is a simple and safe test:</p> +<p>Put one tablespoon of water into an empty can and seal. Have on +hand a vessel containing enough boiling water to cover the can. Set +aside and, as soon as bubbles disappear from the surface, immerse +the can in the hot water. This heats the water in the can and +creates a pressure within the can. Keep the can under the surface +for two minutes, and if by that time no bubbles rise from the can +the can has been sealed air-tight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ADJUSTING THE SEAMING ROLLS</b></p> +<p>If bubbles rise from the can the seam is not sufficiently tight. +If this seam is not sufficiently tight the <i>second</i> seaming +roll needs adjusting, provided the directions regarding seaming +rolls given below have been observed. To set the rolls proceed as +follows: Loosen the nut on the bottom of the seaming-roll pin. With +a screw driver turn the seaming-roll pin counter +clockwise—that is, from right to left. Turn very slightly +and, while holding the seaming-roll pin with the screw driver in +the left hand, tighten nut with the right hand, and test as +before.</p> +<p>Occasionally it is well to compare the seam after the first +operation with the sample can which is sent with the machine.</p> +<p>If seaming rolls cut into the can they are set too close, and +the seaming-roll pin should be adjusted in the opposite direction +from above.</p> +<p>After adjusting, always test cans as suggested above before +canning. The seaming rolls are set before the machine leaves the +factory and should not require adjusting for some time, but I have +found that slight variations in cans may make adjusting +necessary.</p> +<p>If for any reason the second seaming roll is brought into +contact with the can before the first operation is complete it may +injure the can seriously, thus preventing an air-tight seam.</p> +<p>If the first seaming roll is forced in too rapidly it may ruin +the seam. Push the seaming-roll lever gently and steadily, while +turning the crank with the right hand. This rolls the seam +gradually. There is no danger from bringing in the second seaming +roll too quickly if the first seaming roll has completed its +work.</p> +<p>There are thus, as you see, two kinds of tin cans used in home +canning: The sanitary or rim-seal can, which is used with a sealer, +and the cap-and-hole can. The latter consists of a can, and a cover +which carries a rim of solder and is fastened on the can by the +application of heat.</p> +<p>The sanitary can has a cover a trifle larger than the diameter +of the can, thus leaving the full diameter of the can open for +filling. That part of the cover that comes into contact with the +can is coated with a compound or fitted with a paper gasket or ring +which makes a perfect seal when the cover is crimped on the can. +Some mechanical device is necessary for sealing this can, and this +is the sealer.</p> +<p>Cans may be had with inside enamel or plain without any enamel. +The following fruits and vegetables should be canned in +enamel-lined cans: All berry fruits, cherries, plums, rhubarb, +pumpkin, beets and squash. All highly colored products should be +canned in enamel-lined cans to prevent the bleaching effect induced +by their action upon the plain tin. Some prefer to can fish and +meat in the enamel-lined cans. Other products not mentioned here +may be canned in plain cans, since they are less expensive than the +enamel-lined cans.</p> +<p>Covers are lined in two ways, with the paper gasket and the +compound gasket. The compound gasket is merely a preparation, +scarcely visible, applied to the under side of the cover and is not +easily damaged by handling. The paper gasket is a ring placed on +the under side of the cover and must be handled carefully. If the +paper gasket becomes broken the cover must be discarded. To +sterilize covers having the paper gasket, place them in the oven +for a few minutes, but <i>do not wet them</i>, before sealing cans. +Do not remove or handle paper gaskets.</p> +<p>When the cans are removed from the cooker the ends should be +raised; this is caused by the pressure within. If they are not +raised at the ends the cans should be carefully examined for +defects. After the cans are sterilized they should be cooled off in +water. This will cause the ends to collapse. If they do not +collapse the reason is probably due to overfilling. It must be +remembered that peas, beans and corn swell a certain amount after +water is placed in the cans; therefore, in canning these vegetables +the cans should be filled only to within a quarter of an inch of +the top. If the pressure of the air from without will not cause the +end to collapse, it should be forced in by hand.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE TINNING OUTFIT</b></p> +<p>Tin-can sealers are made to handle the regular Number 2, or pint +cans, and the Number 3, or quart cans. The sizes are +interchangeable, so that in a few minutes' time a Number 2 machine +may be changed into a Number 3 machine with the necessary +attachments. So it is economy to buy a machine with these +attachments, as you can then use either pints or quarts as you +desire.</p> +<p>If you are selling to boarding houses and hotels you also will +want half-gallon and gallon cans. If you use these larger-size cans +and want the sealer you can get it for these sizes, but you must +tell exactly what you want when ordering.</p> +<p>The prices which I give are 1919 prices and are of course not +stationary. A sealer that will seal the Number 2 sanitary tin cans +costs $14. A sealer for Number 3 cans will cost the same amount. +But the ideal arrangement is the combination machine which can be +used for both the pints, Number 2, and the quarts, Number 3. This +type of sealer costs $16.50. A special machine is used for sealing +the Number 10 or gallon cans, and its price is $35.</p> +<p>The price of the "winter can opener" is $17.00 for smaller size +and $19.50 for the larger one.</p> +<p>Several standard sizes of tin cans are in common use for canning +purposes, as follows:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>NUMBER</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE<br> +INCHES</td> +<td align='left'>DIAMETER OF<br> +OPENING<br> +INCHES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1</td> +<td align='left'>2⅝ by 4</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3-5/16 by 4-9/16</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>4⅛ by 4⅞</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>6-3/16 by 6⅞</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The cans are put up in crates holding 100 or 500 cans. If you +are canning for the ordinary market use Number 2 cans for berries, +corn, peas and cherries; Number 3 cans for tomatoes, peaches, +apples, pears and sweet potatoes.</p> +<p>In buying cans it is always necessary to state whether you +desire plain tin or lacquered—enameled—cans. In buying +caps always ask for the solder-hemmed caps and give the diameter of +the can opening. For whole fruits and vegetables, cans with +two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch or even larger openings are +preferable. Since the size of the can opening varies and it +ordinarily will not be advisable to have more than one capping +iron, it is recommended that the larger +size—two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch—capping iron be +purchased.</p> +<p>The tin cans come in lots of 100 or 500 cans. It is possible to +buy as few as two dozen cans, but that never pays. It is cheaper to +buy a larger quantity. Number 2 plain sanitary cans in 500 lots +cost $3.45 a hundred; in 100 lots, $3.65 a hundred. Number 2 +sanitary cans—enameled—in 500 lots cost $3.80 a +hundred; in 100 lots, $3.95 a hundred. Number 3, plain, in 500 lots +are $4.50 a hundred; Number 3, plain, in 100 lots are $4.70 a +hundred. Number 3, enameled cans, in 500 lots, are $4.95 a hundred; +Number 3, enameled cans, in 100 lots, are $5.10 a hundred.</p> +<p>The gallons come twelve cans to a case. They are $1.40 a dozen +if 100 cases are bought. If less than 100 cases are ordered they +are $1.50 a dozen.</p> +<p>The cans that you have to solder yourself run just about the +same price, Number 2 being $3.60 in 500 lots and $3.80 in 100 lots. +Number 3 are $4.70 in 500 lots and $4.90 in 100 lots. The buyer +must pay express or freight charges on both sealers and tin +cans.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PREPARING OLD CANS FOR REFILLING</b></p> +<br> +<p>Formerly, after using a tin can once we threw it away; but men +with brains, realizing this waste, have come to our rescue, and as +a consequence we can now use a can three times—that is, if we +have a sealer. The sealer that seals our cans will also open them +for us, so it becomes our winter can opener. With this can opener +we can use our tin cans three times, buying each year only new +tops, which cost less than good rubbers.</p> +<p><b>Cutting and Reflanging Tin Cans.</b> Cutting off the can the +first time. First lift the spring pin in the top piece, push the +lever from you, drop the spring pin between the stop of the first +operation roll and the cutting-roll stop. Place the can in the +sealer, push the can-raising lever against opposite side of frame. +Turn the crank and gently push seaming-roll handle from you until +you come against cutting-roll stop, and the top of your can is cut +off.</p> +<p><b>Reflanging.</b> Remove standard can base and in its place put +in the reflanging base, lift the spring-pin and bring seaming-roll +lever to the original position. Drop the spring pin between the +stops of the first and second operation rollers, place the can in +the sealer, open end down, push raising lever round until the can +engages with the chuck, turn the crank and at the same time +gradually push raising lever round against the frame. The can is +now ready for use again.</p> +<p><b>Resealing</b>. The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch +shorter than originally. Remove the reflanging base, put one of the +narrow washers on the top of the can-raising lever, then the +standard can base, and the sealer is now ready. Proceed as with the +original can.</p> +<p><b>Cutting the Can the Second Time.</b> Proceed as at the first +time, only be sure to cut off the opposite end. The can may be cut +open and reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body. In +cutting and reflanging the second time, leave the +three-sixteenth-inch washer under the can base and reflanging +base.</p> +<p><b>Resealing the Second Time.</b> Remove reflanging base and put +the second three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base +and proceed as directed under resealing.</p> +<b>THE SOLDERING OUTFIT</b> +<p>The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a +tipping copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass +or stoneware cup in which to keep the soldering flux: sal ammoniac, +a few scraps of zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file.</p> +<p><b>Soldering Flux.</b> Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in +crude muriatic acid. It is used for cleaning the irons and for +brushing the tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for +the melted lead to adhere to the tin.</p> +<p><b>To Make the Flux.</b> Purchase at the drug store ten cents' +worth of crude muriatic acid. Place this in a porcelain, stone or +glass jar. Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will +thoroughly dissolve. The flux is always best when it has stood from +twelve to sixteen hours before using. Strain through a piece of +cloth or muslin. Dilute with a little water, about half and half. +This will make the soldering flux. When using keep the flux well +mixed and free from dust and dirt.</p> +<p><b>Tinning Capping Iron.</b> Purchase five or ten cents worth of +sal ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife. Mix +a little solder with the sal ammoniac. Heat the capping iron hot +enough so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a +liquid. Place the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal +ammoniac and solder. Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering +edge of the iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the +solder. All particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, +should be removed from the iron before tinning.</p> +<p><b>Tinning the Tipping Copper.</b> The tipping copper is tinned +in very much the same way as the iron. Sometimes it is desirable to +file the tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to +correct the point. Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the +mixture of sal ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the +melted lead and is bright as silver. The copper should be filed +nearly to a sharp point.</p> +<p><b>Capping a Tin Can.</b> Use one tin can for experimenting. By +capping and tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and +simply putting another cap on the same can, you can use this one +can until you become proficient in capping.</p> +<p>When capping the full packs arrange the cans in rows upon the +table while the capping and tipping irons are heating in the fire. +Take a handful of solder-hemmed caps and place them on all cans +ready to be capped. Place a finger on the vent hole, hold cap in +place, and run the brush containing a small amount of flux evenly +round the solder-hemmed cap with one stroke of the hand. Do this +with all cans ready to be capped. Then take the capping iron from +the fire. Insert in center the upright steel. Hold the capping iron +above the cap until the center rod touches the cap and holds it in +place. Then bring it down in contact with all four points of +solder-hemmed cap and rotate back and forth about three strokes. Do +not bear down on capping iron. A forward and back stroke of this +kind, if properly applied, will perfectly solder the cap in place. +Remove capping iron and inspect the joint.</p> +<p>If any pin-holes are found recap or repair with copper. It may +be necessary to use a piece of wire lead or waste lead rim from a +cap to add more lead to the broken or pinhole places of a cap.</p> +<p><b>Tipping a Tin Can.</b> Take flux jar and brush. Dip brush +lightly in flux and strike the vent hole a side stroke, lightly, +with brush saturated with flux.</p> +<p>Use the waste solder-hemmed cap rim or wire solder. Place point +of wire solder over vent hole. Place upon this the point of the +hot, bright, tipping copper. Press down with a rotary motion. +Remove quickly. A little practice will not only make this easy, but +a smooth, perfect joint and filling will be the result. The cans +are now ready for the canner. The handwork is all over, for the +canner will do the rest.</p> +<p><b>Precautions.</b> Do not fill tin cans too full. Leave a +one-eighth to one-quarter inch space at the top of the can and see +that the product does not touch the cover. If any of the product +touches the cover the application of the hot iron produces steam, +which may blow out the solder, making it impossible to seal the +can.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RULES FOR STERILIZING</b></p> +<p>Remember all fruits and vegetables are prepared for tin cans +exactly as they are for glass jars and the period of cooking or +sterilizing is the same. The following rules will help to avoid +difficulties in the operation of the various canning outfits:</p> +<p>For hot-water-bath outfits, whether homemade or commercial.</p> +<p>1. Support the cans off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and round the cans.</p> +<p>2. Have the water cover the tops of the cans by at least one +inch. The heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the +cans.</p> +<p>3. Count time as soon as the water begins to jump over the +entire surface. Keep it jumping.</p> +<p>4. On removing the cans throw them into a sink with running cold +water or plunge them into a pail of cold water.</p> +<p>5. If the cans are laid on their sides the false bottom is not +necessary.</p> +<br /> +<p>For steam-pressure and pressure-cooker canners the following +precautions should be observed:</p> +<p>1. Lower the inside crate until it rests on the bottom of the +steam-pressure canners. In the case of the pressure cooker put the +rack in the bottom of the cooker.</p> +<p>2. Have the water come to, but not above, the platform.</p> +<p>3. Tin cans can be piled one above the other.</p> +<p>4. When the canner has been filled fasten the opposite clamps +moderately tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp +fully.</p> +<p>5. Have the canner absolutely steam-tight.</p> +<p>6. Allow the pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from +it.</p> +<p>7. Close the pet cock.</p> +<p>8. After the gauge registers the correct amount of pressure, +begin counting the time.</p> +<p>9. Maintain a uniform pressure throughout the process.</p> +<p>10. When the process is completed allow the steam to escape +gradually through the pet cock. You can lift the pet cock slowly, +using a pencil or a knife. This can be done only with tin cans. If +glass jars are used the canner must be cooled before opening the +pet cock. Blowing the steam from the pet cock is likely to cause a +loss of liquid from the partly sealed glass jars.</p> +<p>11. Throw the tin cans into cold water.</p> +<p>12. If tin cans bulge at both ends after they have been +completely cooled, it indicates that they are spoiling and +developing gas, due to bacteria spores or chemical action. These +may be saved if opened at once and resealed or resoldered and +processed again for ten minutes.</p> +<br /> +<p>The following table will help you in estimating how many cans of +fruit and vegetables you will obtain from a bushel of product:</p> +<br> +<h3>NUMBER OF CANS A BUSHEL FILLS</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='center'>NO. 2 CANS</td> +<td align='center'>NO. 3 CANS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall apples</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard peaches</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +<td align='center'>18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Blackberries</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges, sliced</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges, whole</td> +<td align='center'>35</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Shelled Lima beans</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet corn</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peas, shelled</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_X' id="CHAPTER_X"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER X</h2> +<h3>INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION</h3> +<br> +<p>In some parts of the United States, particularly in the South, +such vegetables as corn, beans, peas, squash, spinach, pumpkin, +etc., are canned by what is known as the fractional sterilization, +or the so-called Three Days Process.</p> +<p>Southern canning experts have had trouble with certain +vegetables, such as those named, when they canned these vegetables +in the wash boiler by the cold-pack or one period method. They say +that the climatic conditions are so different in the South that +what is possible in the North is not possible in the South.</p> +<p>The vegetables are prepared, blanched, cold-dipped and packed as +in the cold-pack method and the filled cans or jars are processed +in the wash boiler or other homemade outfit a given length of time +three successive days.</p> +<p>After each day's processing the cans should be cooled quickly +and set aside, until the next day.</p> +<p>The method is as follows:</p> +<p>Process or sterilize glass jars for the required number of +minutes on the first day, remove from canner, push springs down +tightly as you remove the jar from the canner.</p> +<p>On the second day raise the springs, place the jar in the +canner, process or boil for the same length of time as on the first +day. Remove from the canner and seal tightly. Set aside until the +third day, when the process should be repeated.</p> +<p>For this canning a good spring-top jar is good, although the +Mason jar type of top will serve for one year; after one year of +use it is advisable to fit old Mason jars and similar types with +new tops.</p> +<p>If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, do not disturb +the seal at the second and third processing unless the rubber has +blown out.</p> +<p>This method is only necessary when depending upon boiling water +or condensed steam to do the work.</p> +<p>A steam-pressure canner or pressure cooker is used in the South +and many other places to avoid bothering with vegetables three +successive days.</p> +<p>The steam canner or pressure cooker soon pays for itself in +time, energy, and fuel saved as the vegetables may be canned at +high pressure in one processing.</p> +<p>The following time-tables are those used in the South and will +tell you exactly how long to blanch and process all products. The +preparation of vegetables and fruits is the same as in the +one-period method, but the time of blanching and sterilizing +differs as the time-table indicates.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS</h3> +<h4>(Hot-Water Canner)</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH 1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR No water</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE JAR Quart</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR BOIL 30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans (very young and tender)</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_1'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>2 tablespoonfuls water</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sauerkraut</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_1'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>40 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 40 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Soup mixture</td> +<td align='left'>Boil down thick</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 1 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 1 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>13 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Figs</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>1-2 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 2 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>25-35 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_1' id="Footnote_1_1"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>To make sirups recommended, boil sugar and water +together in proportions given below:</p> +<ul> +<li>Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>One pint sugar is one pound.</li> +</ul> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS</h3> +<h4>The following vegetables should be processed the same length of +time on each of three successive days:</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE JAR</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR<br> +BOIL ON EACH<br> +OF THREE<br> +SUCCESSIVE DAYS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>2 min. on cob</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Garden peas</td> +<td align='left'>1 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1¾ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1¾ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_2' id="Footnote_1_2"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN</h3> +<h4>(Hot-Water Canner)</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>NO. CAN</td> +<td align='left'>EXHAUST<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS<br> +OR BOIL</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>2 hrs. and 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>2 tablespoonfuls water</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Soup mixture</td> +<td align='left'>Boil down thick</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>8 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>32 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Figs</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>35 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_3' id="Footnote_1_3"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>To make sirup recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below.</p> +<ul> +<li>Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 4, use 5 pounds 8 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 5, use 6 pounds 13 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>One pint sugar is one pound.</li> +</ul> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN</h3> +<h4>The following vegetables should be processed the same length of +time on each of three successive days:</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>NO. CAN</td> +<td align='left'>EXHAUST<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR<br> +BOIL ON EACH<br> +OF THREE<br> +SUCCESSIVE DAYS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>2 min. on cob</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Garden peas</td> +<td align='left'>1 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>50 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>50 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_4' id="Footnote_1_4"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>You will notice in the time-table for tin, that there is a +column for "Exhausting." After the can is packed and capped it is +placed in the canner of boiling water to within 1 inch of the top +of the can where it remains the number of minutes, usually three, +indicated on the time-table. This is done to force the air from the +can through the little hole left open in the top, and is called +exhausting. Cans that are not exhausted frequently bulge after +processing and are looked upon with suspicion. Cans exhausted too +long frequently cave in at the sides. The time-table should be used +carefully and followed strictly in this part of the process. Tin +cans do not require exhausting in the Northern and Western +states.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES STEAM PRESSURE</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>VEGETABLE</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS,<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>TEMPERATURE,<br> +DEGREES<br> +FAHRENHEIT</td> +<td align='left'>PRESSURE<br> +POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>String beans, No. 2</td> +<td align='left'>45</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>String beans, No. 3</td> +<td align='left'>55</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Beets</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>80</td> +<td align='left'>250</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Peas</td> +<td align='left'>45</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soup, concentrated vegetable</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>70</td> +<td align='left'>250</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Corn, lima beans and peas should never be packed in larger +container than No. 2. Corn is cut from cob after blanching.</p> +<p>The brine used is made of 2½ ounces salt to 1 gallon of +water, except for asparagus, which contains 4 ounces to 1 +gallon.</p> +<p>Beets and rhubarb when packed in tin must be put in enamel-lined +cans.</p> +<p>Process pints as for No. 2 cans; quarts as for No. 3 cans, +adding 10 minutes to each period.</p> +<p>String beans when more mature should be processed at 15 pounds +pressure for 30 minutes for No. 2, and 45 minutes for No. 3.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XI' id="CHAPTER_XI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> +<h3>WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL</h3> +<br> +<p>Every day brings letters to my desk saying, "Why did my jars of +vegetables lose water?" or, "When I looked into my canner I saw all +the beautiful dark sirup in the bottom of the canner instead of in +the jars," or, "What shall I do, my beets are all white?" etc., +etc. In this chapter I am going to try and tell you a few things +you must and must not do. A few "Do's" and "Don'ts" may help you a +little in your canning and food preserving.</p> +<p>I want to say right here that if you have failures do not blame +the method as we are always so apt to do. Experts have worked long +enough, carefully and thoroughly enough, to convince themselves and +others that the cold-pack method and the intermittent method, which +methods are employed for cooking the product in the jar, are sure, +safe, reliable and efficient methods. So if your food spoils +convince yourself it is not the method but something else. Spoilage +is due to imperfect jars, imperfect rubbers, imperfect sealing of +tin cans, careless blanching, insufficient cold dipping or poor +sterilizing.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CAN-RUBBERS</b></p> +<p>Possibly your canning troubles are all due to using a poor grade +of rubber rings. This is poor economy. Rubbers are apt to give more +trouble than anything else to canners when using glass jars. Many +of the rubbers sold are of a very poor quality, disintegrating +quickly when subjected to heat and strain. My sister, canning in +the hot climate of India, has more trouble with the rubber +proposition than anything else.</p> +<p>You want good rubbers, are willing to pay for them, and here is +what you should know about rubber rings.</p> +<p>The one-period, cold-pack method and the intermittent method of +home canning require a rubber ring essentially different from that +commonly used in the old hot-pack method of home canning. +Investigation shows that many of the rings upon the market are +unsuitable for these newer methods, being unable to withstand the +long periods of boiling required in the canning of vegetables and +meats.</p> +<p>Practical canning tests have indicated that rubber rings for use +in this method should meet the following requirements:</p> +<p><b>Inside Diameter</b>. The ring should fit closely, requiring a +little stretching to get it around the neck of the jar. For +standard jars the ring should have an inside diameter of 2¼ +inches.</p> +<p><b>Width of Ring and Flange</b>. The width of the ring or flange +may vary from one-fourth of an inch to twelve thirty-seconds of an +inch. Tests which have been made show that fewer cases of +"blow-out" occur when the flange is ten thirty-seconds of an +inch.</p> +<p><b>Thickness</b>. Rubber rings as found on the market may vary +from 1/18 to 1/10 of an inch in thickness. Tests show that 1/12 of +an inch in thickness is sufficient to take up the unevenness in the +jar and still not so thick as to make it difficult to place the cap +or adjust the bail.</p> +<p>Cold-pack and intermittent-canning require a rubber ring that is +tough, does not enlarge perceptibly when heated in water or steam, +and is not forced out of position between the top and the jar by +slight pressure within the jar. This we call a "blow-out."</p> +<p>Rubber rings should be capable of withstanding four hours of +sterilization in boiling water without blowing out on partially +sealed jars, or one hour under ten pounds of steam pressure. They +should be selected with reference to proper inside diameter, width +of flange, and thickness. Good rubber will stretch considerably and +return promptly to place without changing the inside diameter. They +should also be reasonably firm and able to stand without breakage. +Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter during the +manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index to its +usefulness in home canning. Red, white, black or gray may be +used.</p> +<p>Always use <i>new</i> can-rubbers with each year's product of +canned goods. An old rubber may look like a new one but it has lost +its elasticity and its use may cause imperfect sealing and thus +endanger the keeping quality of the food. This is always a hard +thing to impress upon thrifty penny-saving housekeepers. The old +rubber looks so good, so why not use it? But be wise in this and +remember it is <i>never safe to use old rubbers</i>. New rubbers +are expensive but what about the cost of the product, the loss of +your time and fuel! One jar lost due to an old rubber is so much +food, time and fuel lost.</p> +<p>And do not think yourself thrifty to use two old rubber rings +instead of one, thereby thinking to obtain a better seal, for you +will not. Two old rubbers are inferior in strength to one new good +rubber. If you use old rubbers and your canned goods spoil, blame +the rubbers.</p> +<br> +<p><b>GLASS JARS</b></p> +<p>Next in importance to the rubbers are the glass jars you use. +There are many kinds of fruit jars on the market. The question is +frequently asked, "Which jars on the market are the best." The only +answer to that is to choose the jar which is simplest in +construction, which will seal perfectly and wash easily, which +protects the contained food against contact with metal, which has +the fewest parts to lose or misplace and which fits the shelves and +receptacles planned to hold it.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FLAT SOUR</b></p> +<p>Flat-sour often causes annoyance to beginners in canning some +vegetables, such as corn, peas, beans and asparagus. These canned +foods may show no signs of spoilage and yet when the can is opened +the product may have a sour taste and a disagreeable odor. This +"flat-sour" is not harmful and must not be confused with +"botulinus," which is harmful. However, the taste and odor are so +disagreeable you will have no desire to eat "flat-sour" canned +goods.</p> +<p>This trouble can be avoided if you will use fresh products, that +is, those which have not been allowed to wilt or stand around the +shops for several days, and will blanch, cold-dip, and pack one jar +of product at a time, and place each jar in the canner as it is +packed. The first jars in will not be affected by the extra +cooking. When the steam-pressure canner is used the jars or cans +may be placed in the retort and the cover placed into position but +not clamped down until the retort is filled.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TROUBLES WITH CORN</b></p> +<p>Corn seems to give the most trouble, but with a little care and +study this product may be canned as easily as any other grown in +the garden. A little experience in selecting the ears and ability +to recognize corn that is just between the milk and dough stage is +important. Blanch not longer than five minutes. A plunge in cold +water is sufficient. Cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife +and pack at once in sterilized jars. Best results can be +accomplished when two people cut and one person fills. If it is +necessary for one person to work alone, cut off sufficient corn to +fill one jar, pour on <i>boiling</i> water, add salt, place rubber +and cap in position and put the jar at once in the canner. A little +overcooking does not injure the quality of canned corn. Corn should +not be tightly packed in the jar; it expands a little in processing +and for this reason each jar should be filled scant full. Corn that +has a cheesy appearance after canning had reached the dough stage +before being packed. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the +cold dip and large quantities should not be dipped at one time +unless sufficient help is available to handle the product +quickly.</p> +<p>Some to be absolutely sure when canning corn, cook it for ten +minutes in hot water before packing into jars.</p> +<p>Leave fully one inch of space at the top when packing corn but +enough water may be poured into the jar to fill the can or jar, for +when the corn swells the water will be absorbed.</p> +<p><b>Corn Turning Dark</b>. A dark color in canned corn is due to +some of the following causes:</p> +<p>1. Using water that contains too much iron.</p> +<p>2. Using corn that has reached the dough stage.</p> +<p>3. Blanching for too long a period—five minutes is +sufficient for corn.</p> +<p><b>Water-Logged or Soaked Corn</b>. When canned corn becomes +"water-logged" or "soaked" it is due to such causes as the +following:</p> +<p>1. Allowing the product to stand in the cold water too long +after the hot dip.</p> +<p>2. Allowing the jars to stand after they have been packed, and +filled with boiling water. The jars should be immediately placed in +the sterilizer after being packed.</p> +<p>3. Allowing ears of corn to stand in cold water after +opening.</p> +<p>4. Heating corn in warm water over a slow fire.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BEETS, THEIR LOSS OF COLOR</b></p> +<p>The loss of color in canned beets is due to faulty methods of +preparation before packing them into the jars. To secure good +results 3 or 4 inches of the top and all of the tail should be left +on while blanching. Beets should be blanched for five minutes and +the skin should be scraped but not peeled. Beets should be packed +whole if possible.</p> +<p>Small beets that run forty to a quart are less likely to fade +and are the most suitable size for first-class packs. The older the +beets the more chance there is for loss of color. Well-canned beets +will show a slight loss of color when removed from the canner, but +will brighten up in a few days.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLOUDY PEAS</b></p> +<p>The condition of peas known as "cloudy" is due to such causes as +the following:</p> +<p>1. Cracking the skin of the pea.</p> +<p>2. Blanching for too long a period.</p> +<p>3. Use of water which is too hard or has too much mineral +content.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRINKAGE OF PRODUCT DURING CANNING</b></p> +<p>Shrinkage may be due to one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Improper blanching and cold-dipping.</p> +<p>2. Careless packing and using variety of sizes.</p> +<p>3. Sterilizing for too long a period.</p> +<p>4. Lack of sizing whole products for the container.</p> +<p>Sometimes there is a natural shrinkage that cannot be prevented. +This is due to the fact that vegetables contain air in their +tissues and when this air is driven off by the heat, the boiling +water in the jar rushes in to fill its place. In consequence we +have an apparent shrinkage in the amount of water. So be careful to +do the blanching as correctly as possible to drive out the air; +however, the product will keep just as well in a jar half full of +water as if entirely covered with liquid. The contents of the jar +whether food or air are sterile.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRINKAGE OF GREENS</b></p> +<p>Shrinkage of greens or pot herbs during the canning process is +usually due to insufficient blanching. The proper way to blanch all +greens or pot herbs is in a steamer or in a vessel improvised to do +the blanching in live steam above the water line. If this is not +done much of the mineral salts and volatile oil contents will be +extracted by the water and lost.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LOSS OF LIQUID DURING CANNING</b></p> +<p>A loss of liquid in canning with a hot-water-bath outfit may be +caused by one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Not having the water in the sterilizing vat cover the tops of +the jars by at least one inch.</p> +<p>2. Not providing a suitable platform to hold the jars off the +bottom of the sterilizing vat, permitting circulation of water +under as well as around the jars.</p> +<p>3. Not having the wire bail that goes over the glass tops of +jars sufficiently tight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>REASONS WHY JUICES ARE DRAWN FROM JARS WHEN CANNING WITH +STEAM PRESSURE</b></p> +<p>1. Open pet cock after pointer or gauge has reached zero; test +for pressure by opening pet cock slowly at first. The gauge does +not register pressure until about one pound of pressure has formed, +hence opening the pet cock before the pointer is at zero means that +from one to two pounds of pressure is being relieved and this will +draw the juices the same as allowing the boiler to stand and a +vacuum to form.</p> +<p>2. Allowing the pressure to fluctuate during the time of +sterilizing, such as running the pressure up to fifteen, back to +seven or eight and then up again.</p> +<p>3. Wire bails can be and should be a little tighter when jars +are put in a steam pressure canner. The clamp should be left up as +stated.</p> +<p>4. There may be an escape of steam around the seal of the boiler +and this would allow the pressure on the inside of the boiler to +fluctuate.</p> +<p>Any one of those four things will always cause loss of +juice.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OPERATION OF HOT-WATER-BATH OUTFIT</b></p> +<p>These four rules will help in the operation of the +hot-water-bath canning outfit: Example, wash boiler.</p> +<p>1. Support the jars off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and around the jars.</p> +<p>2. Have the water cover the tops of the jars by at least one +inch. The heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the +jars.</p> +<p>3. Count time as soon as the water begins to <i>jump</i> over +the entire surface. Keep it jumping.</p> +<p>4. Remove jars from the water and tighten the covers as soon as +the time is up.</p> +<p>Rapid cooling of the products prevents overcooking, clarifies +the liquid and preserves the shape and texture.</p> +<p>Operation of steamers or "double-deckers" as they are sometimes +called. These have a small amount of water in a pan below two racks +and the products cook in steam instead of boiling water.</p> +<p>1. Have water boiling in pan when products are put in.</p> +<p>2. Use same time-table as for hot-water bath or wash boiler.</p> +<p>3. Remove jars from steam at the end of the sterilizing period. +Do not allow them to "cool off" in the steamer.</p> +<p>The operation of a water-seal canner is very simple.</p> +<p>1. Jars put on racks and lowered in water as in wash-boiler but +due to an extra jacket the temperature is higher than boiling +water.</p> +<p>2. Follow time-table under water-seal.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OPERATION OF STEAM PRESSURE AND PRESSURE COOKER +CANNER</b></p> +<p>1. Place each jar in the canner as soon as it is packed.</p> +<p>2. Have water come up to but not above the platform.</p> +<p>3. Have canner absolutely steam tight.</p> +<p>4. When canner has been filled fasten opposite clamps moderately +tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully.</p> +<p>5. Allow pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from +it.</p> +<p>6. Close pet cock.</p> +<p>7. Force pressure to the required point before counting +time.</p> +<p>8. Maintain a uniform pressure during the sterilizing +period.</p> +<p>9. Allow canner to cool before opening pet cock.</p> +<p>10. Have pet cock completely closed during the cooling.</p> +<p>11. Open pet cock before vacuum forms. This is evidenced by a +rush of air into the canner when the pet cock is open. You can test +this by placing the finger over the end of the pet cock. If a +vacuum forms it will draw the flesh of the finger into the +opening.</p> +<p>12. Remove jars from canner and tighten lids as soon as canner +is opened.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BREAKAGE OF JARS</b></p> +<p>When breakage of jars occurs it is due to such causes as +these:</p> +<p>1. Overpacking jars. Corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell or +expand in processing. Do not quite fill jars with these +products.</p> +<p>2. Placing cold jars in hot water or vice versa. As soon as jars +are filled with hot sirup or hot water, place immediately in the +canner.</p> +<p>3. Having the wire bail of glass top jars too tight.</p> +<p>4. In steam canner, having too much water in the canner. The +water should not come above the tray.</p> +<p>5. Cold draft striking the jars when they are removed from the +canner.</p> +<p>6. Wire spring too tight, thus breaking jar when contents +expand.</p> +<br> +<p><b>MOLD ON CANNED PRODUCTS</b></p> +<p>Mold may result from one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Leaky rubbers or defective joints.</p> +<p>2. Removing tops from the jars at the end of sterilizing period +and substituting new rubbers, without returning the jars to the +canning outfit for at least a few minutes.</p> +<p>3. If the jars are kept in a damp cellar where the rubbers may +decompose, mold may enter through these decomposed rubbers.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ACIDITY OF TOMATOES AFTER CANNING</b></p> +<p>Too great a degree of acidity in canned tomatoes may be due to +climatic conditions or overripe or underripe product. Such acidity +can be corrected by adding ¼ teaspoonful of baking soda to +one quart of tomatoes.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WATER REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME CANNING</b></p> +<p>The hardening of beans, peas and some other products after +cooking or processing, or the turning of green vegetables to a dark +or russet color usually indicates that the water contains too high +a percentage of mineral matter. Water used for canning purposes +should be pure, soft if possible or as free from objectionable and +excessive qualities of mineral matter as possible. If you are to +can any large quantity of food products and have difficulty with +the water available, it would be well for you to have the water +analyzed and for you to secure the advice of some one at your +college of agriculture.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOO MUCH SALT IN CANNED GOODS INJURIOUS TO QUALITY</b></p> +<p>Most vegetables as well as meats are injured in quality by an +excessive use of salt for seasoning in the canning process. A +little salt is very palatable and its use should be encouraged but +it is better to add no salt in canning than to use too much, as it +can be added to suit the taste when served.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ALTITUDE AND ITS EFFECT ON CANNING</b></p> +<p>Remember that practically all instructions on home canning are +based upon a time schedule for sterilization from sea level to an +altitude of 500 feet above sea level. When canning at an altitude +of more than 500 feet above sea level, it will be necessary to use +your judgment in the increase of time for sterilizing on the basis +of 20 per cent for each 4,000 feet.</p> +<p>Blanching means <i>boiling</i>, not hot. In different directions +for canning we often find "hot" water mentioned when boiling water +is intended. Water should be <i>boiling at a gallop</i> when +vegetables are blanched—berries and soft fruits are not +usually blanched, though some are scalded to loosen the skin.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BERRIES OR FRUIT RISING TO THE TOP</b></p> +<p>Some women are disturbed because berries and fruits have a +tendency to always rise to the top of the jar leaving a sirup space +in the bottom. To prevent this you can scald all berries and fruits +which are not ordinarily scalded, for one minute and then cold-dip +them. They will be softened some, but remain firm, and can be +packed very closely in a jar. They can be packed so closely that +only a little sirup can be added. When a jar thus packed comes from +the sterilizer the berries or fruit are not floating as they would +be if they were not scalded.</p> +<p>Another method employed to prevent berries from floating is to +put the hot sterilized jar on its side while cooling and to roll it +frequently during the cooling period. The berries are then evenly +distributed through the sirup.</p> +<p>In canning mushrooms in tin, always use lacquered cans. Do not +fail to blanch and cold dip before packing, and remove the +mushrooms immediately after opening the tin cans.</p> +<p>In canning cabbage and other similar products always soak the +product in cold brine for one hour before sterilizing. Use ½ +pound salt to 12 quarts water. This is believed to improve the +flavor. Always wash greens or other vegetables, to remove all dirt +and grit.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TROUBLES WITH TIN CANS</b></p> +<p>To discover pin-holes or any leaks in a tin can, immerse it in +boiling water after sealing and if there is any bubbling from the +can, you may rest assured it needs resealing.</p> +<p>Swells in tin cans are caused by insufficient sterilization. The +action of bacteria causes gas to form in the can and as a result +there is a bulging at either end. If left alone long enough the +cans will explode. Watch carefully all bulging cans and use them +first. Sometimes a slight bulge occurs when a can has been filled +too full.</p> +<p>If you have trouble sealing tin cans the chances are that the +can is too full. See that no particle of food touches the top or +when soldering, if you employ that method of sealing, small pin +holes will be blown in the seal by escaping steam which is +generated by the hot sealer coming in contact with the cold food. +Another cause of sealing trouble lies sometimes in a poorly heated +capping steel or because it is not kept brightly tinned. To make a +proper seal the steel must be kept bright, hot and clean.</p> +<p>Also, be sure you buy good solder as there are inferior grades +that are too poor to flow when properly heated.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FROZEN PRODUCTS</b></p> +<p>Watch all jars and cans that have been subjected to a freeze. If +the cans or jars do not burst the only harm done is a slight +softening of the food tissues. In glass jars after freezing there +is sometimes a small crack left which will admit air and +consequently bacteria.</p> +<p>Sometimes cans and jars tip over in the wash boiler during +sterilizing. This is caused by using a false-bottom which is too +low or because it is not well perforated. Or it may be due to the +fact that the jar was not well packed and so may be too light in +weight.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XII' id="CHAPTER_XII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> +<h3>GETTING READY TO DRY</h3> +<br> +<p>For various reasons women have not taken so kindly to drying +fruits and vegetables as they have to canning these foods.</p> +<p>One woman said to me: "I like the canning because I can come to +a demonstration and see the whole process carried through from +start to finish. The drying of strawberries cannot be completed in +sixteen minutes as the canning is." And another woman said: "What I +do not like about drying is having the stuff standing round the +house somewhere for so many hours. I like to get things in the jars +and out of sight."</p> +<p>These two objections seem to be expressed more than any other. +And in addition there is a third objection to drying: "I want my +prepared food ready to use on a minute's notice. I can quickly open +a can of my fruit and vegetables and there it is ready. With my +dried things I have to allow time for soaking and cooking." This we +will have to admit is true. But what weight have these three +arguments against the many advantages of drying?</p> +<p>When we study the history of food preservation we find that +drying was practiced before canning, pickling or preserving. I know +my grandmother successfully dried quantities of things.</p> +<p>Vegetable and fruit drying have been little practiced for a +generation or more, though there have been some thrifty +housekeepers who have clung to their dried corn, peas, beans and +apples. A friend of mine says: "Why, dried corn has a much better, +sweeter taste than your canned stuff. I would rather have one +little dish of my delicious dried corn than two big dishes of your +canned corn."</p> +<p>Drying, I think we will all admit, does not and cannot take the +place of canning fruits and vegetables in glass or tin. Drying and +canning are twin sisters, and always go hand in hand.</p> +<p>The ideal arrangement for all homes, whether on the farm, in the +village, in the town or in the city, is to have an ample supply of +canned food for emergencies and quick service, and an equally ample +supply of dried foods when meals are planned beforehand and there +is time enough for the soaking and cooking of the dried foods.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE ADVANTAGES OF DRYING</b></p> +<p>When we come right down to facts, drying has many advantages +over canning.</p> +<p>The process is very simple, as you will see. The cost is slight. +In almost every home the necessary equipment, in its simplest form, +is already at hand. There is no expense for glass jars or tin cans, +and with ordinary care there is no loss of products, as there may +be in handling glass jars or from spoilage. The actual work +requires less time and less skill than canning and the dried +products when properly prepared are just as good as the canned +ones—some say better.</p> +<p>One special thing in favor of drying is the little storage space +needed. You can often reduce 100 pounds of fresh product to ten +pounds by drying, without any loss of food value and with little +loss of flavor.</p> +<p>Dried products can be moved more conveniently than glass jars or +tin cans, for they are usually reduced to from one-third to +one-fifth of the original bulk.</p> +<p>Another valuable thing about drying is that the little odds and +ends one would scarcely bother to can may be dried in the oven as +you go about your housework.</p> +<p>I have often been asked the difference between the meaning of +the terms "evaporated," "dried," "desiccated" and "dehydrated." +These terms are used more or less interchangeably when applied to +foods from which the moisture has been removed. In a general way, +however, "evaporated" products are those from which the moisture +has been removed through the agency of artificial heat; dried fruit +is that which has been exposed to the heat of the sun, though not +infrequently the term is applied to products handled in the +evaporator. The other terms are commonly applied to products that +have been evaporated by one of the various patented processes in +which equipment of some special design has been used.</p> +<p>To avoid any confusion we will use the general term "dried" for +all products that have enough of the water removed to prevent +bacterial action, but which still retain the maximum food value, +color and flavor of the original product. And that is what we want +to accomplish when we attempt to dry.</p> +<p>How are we to remove the water and still retain food value, +color and flavor? There are three principal methods by which we can +do this. First, by artificial heat. Drying by artificial heat is +done in the oven or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays +suspended on the stove or in a specially constructed dryer built at +home or purchased.</p> +<p>Second, by the sun. Sun drying is done either out of doors in +the sun, under glass in sun parlors, or the products are hung in +the attic where the sun has free access.</p> +<p>Third, satisfactory drying may be done by an air blast from an +electric fan.</p> +<p>Of course any one of these may be used alone or two different +methods may be combined. You can start a product on the stove and +finish it in the sun, or <i>vice versa.</i></p> +<p>The simplest and yet the most effective drying may be done on +plates or dishes placed in the oven. It may be done on the back of +the kitchen stove with these same utensils while the oven is being +used for baking. In this way left-overs and other bits of food may +be dried with slight trouble while the stove is being used, and +saved for winter use. This method is especially effective for sweet +corn. A few sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a single +turnip, may be dried and saved.</p> +<p>To keep the heat from being too great, when drying in the oven +leave the oven door partly open. For oven use, a simple tray may be +made of galvanized-wire screen of convenient size, with the edges +bent up for an inch or two on each side. At each corner this tray +should have a leg an inch or two in length to hold it up from the +bottom of the oven and permit circulation of air round the +product.</p> +<p>Oven drying in a gas range is an effective method if the +temperature is kept even. An oven thermometer is a great +convenience, otherwise the temperature will have to be carefully +watched and the burners turned as low as possible. It is economy in +the end to purchase an oven thermometer, for then you can have the +temperature just right. It is best to start the temperature at 110 +degrees Fahrenheit and dry at 130 degrees. Never go over 150 +degrees.</p> +<p>If you wish to dry in the oven over the kerosene stove, place +soapstones over each burner to prevent the heat from becoming too +intense. Turn the burners very low until the stones are thoroughly +heated. You can turn off the burners completely after the desired +temperature is reached and it will be maintained from the heat of +the stones for five or six hours. If more time than that is +required for the drying, it may be necessary to light the burners +again before the end of the process. The products should be turned +constantly, so that they may dry evenly.</p> +<p>When using any oven for drying you can cover the oven racks with +cheesecloth and spread the products on them. Always have the racks +two or three inches apart to allow free circulation of air.</p> +<p>An effective dryer for use over a stove or range may easily be +made at home. For the frame use strips of wood a half inch thick +and two inches wide. The trays or shelves are made of +galvanized-wire screen of small mesh tacked to the supports. +Separate trays sliding on strips attached to the framework are +desirable. This dryer may be suspended from the ceiling over the +kitchen stove or range or over an oil, gasoline or gas stove, and +it may be used while cooking is being done. If an oil stove is used +there must be a tightly fitting tin or galvanized-iron bottom to +the dryer, to prevent the fumes of the oil from reaching and +passing through the material which is to be dried. A bottom of this +kind may be easily attached to any dryer, homemade or commercial. A +framework crane makes it possible for this dryer to be swung to one +side when not in use.</p> +<p>A larger kind of homemade stove dryer can be made. This is a +good size: base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The lower part +or supporting framework, six inches high, is made of galvanized +sheet iron, slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with two +ventilating holes in each of the four sides. The frame which rests +on this base is made of strips of wood one or one and a half inches +wide. Wooden strips, an inch and a quarter wide and three inches +apart, serve to brace the sides and furnish supports for the +trays.</p> +<p>In a dryer of the dimensions given there is room for eight +trays. The sides, top and back are of galvanized-iron or tin +sheets, tacked to the framework, though thin strips of wood may be +used instead of the metal. Small hinges and a thumb latch are +provided for the door. Galvanized sheet iron, with numerous small +holes in it, is used for making the bottom of the dryer. To prevent +direct heat from coming in contact with the product and also to +distribute the heat by radiation, a piece of galvanized sheet iron +is placed two inches above the bottom. This piece is three inches +shorter and three inches narrower than the bottom and rests on two +wires fastened to the sides.</p> +<p>The trays are made of wooden frames of one-inch strips, to which +is tacked galvanized-wire screen. Each tray should be three inches +shorter than the dryer and enough narrower to allow it to slide +easily on the supports when being put in or taken out.</p> +<p>In placing the trays in the dryer push the lower one back as far +as it will go, leaving a three-inch space in front. Place the next +tray even with the front, leaving the space at the back. Alternate +all the trays in this way to facilitate the circulation of the +heated air. It is well to have a ventilating opening, six by two +inches, in the top of the dryer to discharge moisture. The trays +should be shifted during the drying process to procure uniformity +of drying.</p> +<p>Several types of stove dryers are on the market. One of these +has a series of trays in a framework, forming a compartment. This +is placed on top of the stove. Another is a shallow metal box which +is filled with water. This is really a water-bath dryer. This dryer +or dehydrator can be used on either a gas or coal range. A +thermometer is necessary in order to maintain the right +temperature. The slices of vegetables or fruit are placed on the +tray with the thermometer, and the dryer does the work.</p> +<p>Commercial dryers having their own furnaces may be bought at +prices ranging from $24 to $120. Some of these, in the smaller +sizes, may be bought without furnaces and used on top of the +kitchen stove. The cost is from $16 upward.</p> +<p>Sun drying has much to recommend it. There is no expense for +fuel, no thermometer is needed, and there is no danger of +overheating the fruits or vegetables.</p> +<p>For sun drying of fruits and vegetables, the simplest way is to +spread the slices or pieces on sheets of plain paper or lengths of +muslin and expose them to the sun. Muslin is to be preferred if +there is danger of sticking. Trays may be used instead of paper or +muslin. Sun drying requires bright, hot days and a breeze. Once or +twice a day the product should be turned or stirred and the dry +pieces taken out. The drying product should be covered with +cheesecloth tacked to a frame for protection from dust and flying +insects. If trays are rested on supports placed in pans of water, +the products will be protected from crawling insects. Care must be +taken to provide protection from rain, dew and moths. During rains +and just before sunset the products should be taken indoors.</p> +<p>To make a cheap tray for use in sun drying, take strips of wood +three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches wide for the sides +and ends. To form the bottom, laths should be nailed to these +strips, with spaces of one-eighth of an inch between the laths to +permit air circulation. A length of four feet, corresponding to the +standard lengths of laths, is economical. Instead of the laths +galvanized-wire screen with openings of one-eighth or one-quarter +of an inch, may be used. In using wire the size of the tray should +be regulated by the width of wire screen obtainable. The trays +should be of uniform size, so that they may be stacked together for +convenience in handling.</p> +<p>A small homemade sun dryer, easily constructed, is made of light +strips of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of galvanized-wire +screen and some cheesecloth. A convenient size for the glass top is +eighteen by twenty-four inches. To hold the glass make a light +wooden frame of strips of wood a half inch thick and one inch wide. +This frame should have legs of material one by one and a half +inches, with a length of twelve inches for the front legs and +eighteen inches for those in the rear. This will cause the top to +slope, which aids in circulation of air and gives direct exposure +to the rays of the sun. As a tray support nail a strip of wood to +the legs on each of the four sides, about four inches below the top +framework and sloping parallel with the top. The tray is made of +thin strips of wood about two inches wide and has a galvanized-wire +screen bottom. There will be a space of about two inches between +the top edges of the tray and the glass top of the dryer, to allow +for circulation of air.</p> +<p>Protect both sides, the bottom and the front of the dryer with +cheesecloth, tacked on securely and snugly, to exclude insects and +dust without interfering with circulation. At the rear place a +cheesecloth curtain, tacked at the top but swinging free below, to +allow the tray to be moved in and out. Brace the bottom of this +curtain with a thin strip of wood, as is done in window shades. +This curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons when the tray +is in place. If you have a sunny, breezy attic you can hang your +drying trays there.</p> +<p>The use of an electric fan is an effective means of drying. As +there is no danger of the food scorching, the fan proves as +effective as the sun for drying.</p> +<p>Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed on trays one foot wide +and three feet long. These trays are stacked and the fan placed +close to one end, with the current of air directed lengthwise along +the trays. The number of trays to be used is regulated by the size +of the fan. Drying by this process may be done in twenty-four hours +or less. With sliced string beans and shredded sweet potatoes a few +hours are sufficient if the air is dry.</p> +<p>Of importance equal to proper drying is the proper packing and +storage of the finished product. Use baking-powder and coffee cans +and similar covered tins, pasteboard boxes with tight-fitting +covers, strong paper bags, and patented paraffin paper boxes, which +may be bought in quantities at comparatively low cost.</p> +<p>A paraffin container of the type used by oyster dealers for the +delivery of oysters will be found inexpensive and easily handled. +If using this or a baking-powder can or similar container, after +filling adjust the cover closely. The cover should then be sealed. +To do this paste a strip of paper round the top of the can, +covering the joint between can and cover for the purpose of +excluding air. Pasteboard boxes should be sealed by applying melted +paraffin with a brush to the joint.</p> +<p>If a paper bag is used the top should be twisted, doubled over +and tied with a string. Moisture may be kept out of paper bags by +coating them, using a brush dipped into melted paraffin. Another +good precaution is to store bags in an ordinary lard pail or can or +other tin vessel having a closely fitting cover.</p> +<p>The products should be stored in a cool, dry place, well +ventilated and protected from rats, mice and insects. In localities +where the air is very moist, moisture-proof containers must be +used. It is good practice to use small containers, so that it will +not be necessary to leave the contents exposed long after opening +and before using.</p> +<p>A very good plan is to pack just enough fruit or vegetables for +one or two meals in each container. This will lessen the chance of +large quantities being spoiled. For convenience label all +packages.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIII' id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a> +<h2><b>CHAPTER XIII</b></h2> +<h3>HOW TO DRY FRUITS</h3> +<br> +<p>Having decided to add the accomplishment of drying to your other +housewifely arts, you have given some thought and study to the +subject of driers. You now know whether you prefer sun, artificial +or fan drying. You have either made or bought some kind of a drier. +Little other equipment is needed.</p> +<p>A few good paring knives, some plates, and if possible some +cutting or slicing device to lighten the work of preparation are +all that are necessary. A sharp kitchen knife will serve every +purpose in slicing and cutting fruits for drying, if no other +device is at hand. The thickness of all slices of fruit should be +from an eighth to a quarter of an inch. Whether sliced or cut into +strips the pieces should be small, so as to dry quickly. They +should not, however, be so small as to make them hard to handle or +to keep them from being used to advantage in preparing dishes for +the table, such as would be prepared from fresh products. Berries +are dried whole. Apples, quinces, peaches and pears dry better if +cut into halves, rings or quarters.</p> +<p>Cleanliness is essential. A knife blade that is not bright and +clean will discolor the product on which it is used.</p> +<p>Winter apples should be chosen for drying when possible, as +sweet apples and early varieties are not so well adapted to the +purpose. The Northern Spy, the Baldwin and the Ben Davis give a +good-flavored dried product. Most early varieties lack sufficient +firmness of texture for the best results. On the other hand, some +comparatively early kinds, such as Gravenstein and Porter, are +considerably prized in some sections.</p> +<p>To prepare them for drying, apples are peeled, cored, trimmed +and sliced one quarter of an inch thick. Be sure to cut out all +worm holes, decayed spots and other blemishes. Defects are easily +cut out with an ordinary straight-back, sharp-pointed knife having +a blade two and a half to three inches long.</p> +<p>To prevent discoloration, as fast as the fruit is prepared dip +it into a weak salt solution—three level teaspoonfuls of salt +to one gallon of water. After all the apples are prepared, remove +surplus moisture and put on trays, water-bath drier or whatever +device you are using.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO REGULATE THE HEAT</b></p> +<p>Start with the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually +raise it to 130 degrees and do the drying at that temperature. It +is important to know the degree of heat in the drier, and this +cannot be determined very accurately except by using a thermometer. +Inexpensive oven thermometers can be bought or an ordinary +thermometer can be suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not +used the greatest care should be given to the regulation of the +heat. The temperature in the drier rises rather quickly and the +product may scorch unless close attention is given to it.</p> +<p>The reason sun drying is popularly believed to give fruits and +vegetables a sweeter flavor probably is that in the sun they never +are scorched, whereas in the oven or over a stove scorching is +likely to happen unless one is very careful. An oven or dairy +thermometer is a good investment. If you do not have a thermometer +test the heat by the air feeling warm to the hand. The product +should never be so hot that it cannot be grasped in the hand. In +order to prevent the fruit from burning where artificial heat is +used and to keep it from sticking to the drier by remaining in +contact with it too long, stir the fruit occasionally. To insure +the most uniform drying in sun drying, the fruit also should be +stirred occasionally.</p> +<p>Remember that if trays with metal bottoms are used for drying, +they should be covered with cheesecloth to prevent acid action. +Oven racks may be covered with either cheesecloth or heavy wrapping +paper.</p> +<p>The interval between stirring varies with the type of drier +used, with the condition of the fruit and with the degree of heat +maintained. Make the first stirring within two hours after the +drying is begun. After that examine the product from time to time +and stir often enough to prevent scorching or sticking and to +insure uniform drying. Use a wooden paddle for stirring. Where +several trays or racks are placed one above the other, it is +necessary to shift the trays from time to time, so the upper tray +goes to the bottom and the bottom tray to the top.</p> +<p>The time necessary for drying fruit depends upon several +factors: The type and construction of the drier; the depth to which +the fruit is spread; the method of preparing, whether sliced, +quartered or whole; the temperature maintained; and weather +conditions, whether bright and sunny or cloudy and damp.</p> +<p>If the atmosphere is heavy and damp the drying is retarded. +Under some conditions it is hardly possible thoroughly to dry +fruit.</p> +<p>There is possibly no step in the entire drying process that +requires better-trained judgment than the matter of knowing when +the fruit is sufficiently dried. A little experience will soon +teach this.</p> +<p>The fruit should be so dry that when a handful of slices is +pressed together firmly into a ball the slices will be "springy" +enough to separate at once upon being released from the hand. No +fruit should have any visible moisture on the surface. As the dried +apples, pears, peaches and apricots are handled they should feel +soft and velvety to the touch and have a pliable texture. You do +not want fruit so dry that it will rattle. If fruits are brittle +you have dried them too much.</p> +<p>After the apples and all other fruits are dried they must go +through another process, called "conditioning." The best way to +"condition" fruits is to place them in boxes or cans and pour them +from one container into another once a day for three or four +successive days. By doing this you mix the fruit thoroughly and +give to the whole mass an even degree of moisture. Pieces that are +too dry will absorb moisture from those that are too moist.</p> +<p>You may lose a whole bag or jar of dried products if you neglect +the conditioning, for if one moist piece goes into that bag all is +lost. Moisture breeds mold and mold means decay.</p> +<p>Ask yourself these questions: "Do I ever lose any dried +products? Are my dried products when soaked and cooked as near like +the original fruit as possible?" If you lose products and if your +dried fruits are tasteless you had better start the conditioning +process. For with this one step added to your drying you need lose +no dried products, and you need not dry the fruits to the brittle +stage, as you must of necessity do when you put them away +immediately.</p> +<p>After you have poured the dried products back and forth every +day for three or four days as an additional precaution, reheat the +dried fruit to 140 degrees just long enough—about thirty +minutes—to allow the heat to penetrate throughout the +product.</p> +<p>Two kinds of moths stand out prominently among insects that +attack dried fruits and vegetables. They are much more likely to +get into the fruit during the process of drying than to find their +way through boxes into the stored products. This applies +particularly to drying in the sun. The Indian-meal moth is the most +destructive of these insects. It is about three-eighths of an inch +long and has a cloaked appearance, one-third gray and the rest +copper-brown. The fig moth is about the same size, but dark, +neutral gray. A minute, flattened chocolate-brown beetle usually +accompanies these moths and does considerable damage. Both of the +moths deposit their eggs on fruit when it is on the drying +racks—usually at dusk or after dark, for these insects are +not fond of daylight.</p> +<p>It takes from three to ten days for the eggs to hatch into +whitish or pinkish grublike caterpillars, and from five to ten +weeks from the laying of the eggs before more moths appear to lay +another lot of eggs. A number of "broods" or generations are +produced yearly, so if a few of these moth eggs are stored away on +dried fruits or vegetables hundreds of caterpillars are produced +and many pounds of valuable material may be destroyed during the +winter if the products are stored in a warm room. Dried fruits +stored in warm, dark bins or in sacks offer especially favorable +places for the development of these destructive moths.</p> +<p>It is evident that the larger the package, the greater the +chance of a few eggs doing much damage. Small cartons or containers +confine the injury from these moths to small quantities of +material; for if the containers are closed tightly the insects +cannot easily escape from them and infest other packages which may +not have been infested previously.</p> +<p>If you are drying by sun and the products are not thoroughly dry +at night, finish the process on the stove. If you desire to carry +it over to the next day screen the drying racks early in the +evening and fasten down the cheesecloth. With these precautions and +with proper storage, no danger ordinarily need be feared from these +insects. The additional precaution of heating the dried product to +140 degrees for thirty minutes sterilizes it if already +infested.</p> +<p>Though not necessary, tin cans or glass jars make good +receptacles for storage of dried fruits or vegetables. Pasteboard +boxes with tight covers, stout paper bags and patented paraffin +paper cartons also afford ample protection for dried products when +protected from insects and rodents. The dried products must be +protected from outside moisture, and will keep best in a cool, dry, +well-ventilated place. These conditions, however, are difficult to +obtain in the more humid regions, and there moisture-tight +containers should be used. If a small amount of dried product is +put in each receptacle, just enough for one or two meals, it will +not be necessary to open a container, the contents of which cannot +be consumed in a short time. If a paper bag is used the upper part +should be twisted into a neck, bent over and tied tightly with a +string. A further precaution is to place the small bags in a tin +container with a tightly fitting cover, such as an ordinary lard +can. All bags should bear a label.</p> +<p>Pears and quinces usually are prepared and dried exactly as are +apples. Pears are attractive when cut lengthwise into halves, with +the stem and calyx removed but the core left in. Or they may be +quartered. If sliced like apples the drying period is +shortened.</p> +<p>Peaches usually are dried unpeeled, but they are better if +peeled before drying. The first step in the preparation of peaches +is to split them open to remove the pit. To do this, cut completely +round the peach in the line of the suture with a sharp knife. The +cut must be complete, for tearing of the flesh will make the +finished product less attractive. If the fruit is to be peeled the +paring should be done before it is cut open to remove the pit.</p> +<p>To facilitate the removal of the skin, dip the peaches in a +kettle of boiling water for one and a half minutes; then plunge +directly into cold water, after which the skins can be easily +slipped off. After the pit has been removed, lay on drier pit side +up. The juice of the fruit will collect in the pit or "cup" and +will add to the flavor and quality of the dried peaches. The +peaches can be cut into smaller pieces if you wish to lessen the +drying period.</p> +<p>Plums and apricots are not peeled, but are cut into halves, the +pits removed and dried in the same way as peaches. Small, +thin-fleshed varieties of plums are not suitable for drying.</p> +<p>When drying cherries always remove the stems. The pits may or +may not be removed. The best product for later cooking or eating +has the pit removed, though large quantities of juices are lost in +the pitting unless you provide some way of saving and utilizing +it.</p> +<p>A prune is simply a plum having certain qualities not possessed +by all plums. All prunes are plums, but not all plums are prunes. +The final test as to whether a plum is a prune is the ability to +dry without fermenting with the pit still remaining in the fruit. +If a plum cannot dry without fermentation unless the pit is +removed, it is not a prune. Prunes for drying, like other fruits, +should be fully ripe.</p> +<p>Prunes are merely washed and then dried without removing the +pits. The fruit is dry when the skin is well shrunken. The texture +should be firm but springy and pliable enough to yield readily when +pressed in the hand. The drying should not be continued until the +individual prunes rattle as they are brought in contact with one +another in handling. Prunes must be conditioned before storing.</p> +<p>In drying, prunes shrink about two-thirds in weight—that +is, for every three pounds of fresh fruit you get one pound of +finished product.</p> +<p>Smaller fruits, such as red and black raspberries, blackberries, +huckleberries, dewberries, strawberries and blueberries, are simply +washed and then put to dry. Berries must not be dried too hard; if +too much moisture is removed they will not resume their original +form when soaked in water. But the material must be dried +sufficiently or it will mold. Haven't you often tasted extremely +seedy dried berries? They were dried until they rattled. Stop the +drying as soon as the berries fail to stain the hand when +pressed.</p> +<p>To obtain the most satisfactory results soft fruits should be +only one layer deep on the drying trays.</p> +<p>Fruits contain about 80 to 95 per cent water and when dried +sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per cent of water, so it is +a good plan to weigh before and after drying. The product should +lose from two-thirds to four-fifths of its weight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN FRUIT DRYING</b></p> +<p>1. Thoroughly cleanse the product.</p> +<p>2. Prepare the product by slicing and so on.</p> +<p>3. Spread on trays; put in oven or put on commercial drier.</p> +<p>4. Stir occasionally.</p> +<p>5. Shift trays.</p> +<p>6. Test for completeness of drying.</p> +<p>7. "Condition" for three or four days. Sweet fruits may contain +more moisture without spoiling than those of low sugar content.</p> +<p>8. Heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for thirty minutes, to kill +all insects.</p> +<p>9. Pack immediately in available receptacles.</p> +<p>10. Label and store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FRUIT PASTES</b></p> +<p>Fruit pastes are delicious and can be dried.</p> +<p>1. Select, wash, prepare fruit.</p> +<p>2. Cook until soft; stir.</p> +<p>3. Add sugar to sweeten.</p> +<p>4. Continue cooking until very thick.</p> +<p>5. Spread out flat by spoonfuls on oiled paper.</p> +<p>6. Dry in slow oven; finish drying over kitchen range.</p> +<p>7. Turn from time to time like griddle cakes.</p> +<p>Nuts of all kinds can be dried in these cakes, which may be left +whole or cut in strips with scissors.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANDIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p>1. Select product of uniform size and ripeness.</p> +<p>2. Wash; prepare in usual way.</p> +<p>3. Cut fruit in halves, quarters or smaller sections; cut +vegetables in narrow strips two and a half inches long.</p> +<p>4. Drop in a sirup cooked until it spins a thread. To prepare +ginger sirup, add a few roots of ginger to the sirup.</p> +<p>5. Cook until transparent.</p> +<p>6. Drain.</p> +<p>7. Dry in slow oven; Finish drying over kitchen range.</p> +<p>8. Roll in granulated sugar. (May be omitted for fruits.)</p> +<br> +<p>This method is recommended especially for candied apples, +peaches, pears and carrots.</p> +<p>In a properly constructed sun drier, all fruits will dry in from +3 to 12 hours, under normal summer conditions. Time depends on +dryness of atmosphere, sunshine and wind. Products dried in a sun +drier, no matter how crude, are superior to those dried in the open +without protection of some kind. Products dry more rapidly in high +altitudes than at sea level.</p> +<p>Racks in oven can be used. Plates or platters can be used in +oven. A stove drier hung over the stove can be used. A water-bath +or other commercial drier can be used with the stove.</p> +<br> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING FRUITS</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PRODUCT</td> +<td align='left'>PREPARATION</td> +<td align='left'>ARTIFICIAL HEAT<br> +TIME IN HOURS<br> +TEMPERATURE<br> +110° TO 130° F.</td> +<td align='left'>FAN—NO HEAT<br> +APPROXIMATE<br> +TIME IN HOURS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick. Drop +in salt solution, 3 level teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of water to +prevent discoloration.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apricots</td> +<td align='left'>Remove pits, but do not peel. Cut into halves and +dry, "cup" side up.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries, All Kinds</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; stem or hull.</td> +<td align='left'>4-5</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td align='left'>Remove stems. Pit or not, as desired. If pitted, +save and utilize juice.</td> +<td align='left'>2-4</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick. Or +peel, cut in halves lengthwise; remove stems and calyx.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, remove stones; cut in halves or smaller +pieces. If in halves, lay pit or "cup" side up to retain +juice.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='left'>Do not peel, but remove pits. Cut in halves and +dry, "cup" side up.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Prunes</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; do not pit.</td> +<td align='left'>5-7</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Quinces</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Rhubarb</td> +<td align='left'>Select young stems. Wash and cut into ½" +pieces, using very sharp knife. Do not remove skins, so the rhubarb +will retain pink color.</td> +<td align='left'>6-8</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIV' id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> +<h3>HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>Vegetable drying is a little more complicated than fruit drying, +just as vegetable canning is more complicated than fruit canning. +Blanching is an important part of the operation. It makes vegetable +drying satisfactory as well as easy and simple, just as it makes +vegetable canning possible.</p> +<p>However, there is one difference between blanching vegetables +for canning and blanching them for drying. After repeated +experiments it has been found that for drying purposes it is best +to blanch all vegetables in steam rather than in boiling water. In +vegetable canning we blanch almost all vegetables in boiling water, +usually steaming only the members of the "green" family.</p> +<p>So remember that for drying all vegetables are blanched in +steam. To do this steaming you can use your ordinary household +steamer, such as you use for steaming brown breads and suet +puddings, or you can simply place a colander over boiling water in +a kettle. Do not allow the colander to touch the water. If you are +fortunate enough to possess a pressure cooker, steam the vegetables +for drying in it.</p> +<p>Blanching is necessary for many reasons. It removes the strong +flavors, objectionable to many people. Beans, cabbage, turnips and +onions have too strong a flavor if dried without blanching. +Furthermore, it starts the color to flowing, just as it does in +canning. It removes the sticky coating round vegetables. Most +vegetables have a protective covering to prevent evaporation. The +removal of this covering by blanching facilitates drying. Blanching +also relaxes the tissues, drives out the air and improves the +capillary attraction, and as a result the drying is done in a much +shorter period. Products dry less rapidly when the texture is firm +and the tissue contains air.</p> +<p>Blanching checks the ripening processes. The ripening process is +destroyed by heating and this is to be desired for drying +purposes.</p> +<p>Blanching kills the cells and thus prevents the hay-like flavor +so often noticed in unblanched products. It prevents changes after +drying, which otherwise will occur unless the water content is +reduced to about five per cent.</p> +<p>Thorough blanching makes the product absolutely sanitary; no +insect eggs exist after blanching and cold-dipping.</p> +<p>There is one precaution that must be followed: Do not blanch too +long. Blanching too long seems to break down the cell structure, so +that the product cannot be restored to its original color, shape or +size. Follow the blanching time-table for drying just as carefully +as you follow the blanching time-table for canning.</p> +<p>After the blanching comes the cold-dip. For the benefit of new +canning and drying enthusiasts, let me explain that by "cold-dip" +we mean plunging the product immediately into a pan of very cold +water or holding it under the cold-water faucet until the product +is thoroughly cooled. Do not let the product stand in cold water, +as it would then lose more food value and absorb too much +water.</p> +<p>You can cold-dip the product without removing it from the +colander, strainer or steamer in which it is steamed. Plunge the +vessel containing the product into the cold water.</p> +<p>The cold-dipping checks the cooking, sets the coloring matter +which was started to flowing in the blanching process, and it makes +the product much easier to handle.</p> +<p>Let us now see just exactly what we must do when we want to dry +sweet corn, more of which is dried than of any other vegetable. All +other vegetables are dried in the same way as is corn, the only +difference being in the length of the blanching and drying +period.</p> +<p>All vegetables are prepared for drying just as they are prepared +for table use. When drying corn select ears that are young and +tender, and if possible freshly gathered. Products for drying +should be in the same perfect condition as you have them for table +use. If wilted and old it is not worth while drying them.</p> +<p>Remove the husks and the silk, and steam—on the +cob—for fifteen minutes. This sets the milk, besides doing +many other things which blanching by steam always does. After the +steaming, cold-dip the corn, and then cut it from the cob, using a +very sharp and flexible knife. Cut the grains fine, but only +halfway down to the cob; scrape out the remainder of the grains, +being careful not to scrape off any of the chaff next to the +cob.</p> +<p>When field corn is used, the good, plump cooking stage is the +proper degree of ripeness for satisfactory drying.</p> +<p>The corn should be thoroughly drained as this facilitates +drying. You can easily remove all surface moisture by placing the +corn between two towels and patting them.</p> +<p>It is now ready for drying. The corn may be dried in the sun, +but if so, it is advisable first to dry it in the oven for ten or +fifteen minutes and then finish the drying in the sun. Never +attempt sun drying in moist weather. The corn may be dried by +artificial heat, either on top of the stove or in the oven, using +either plates, oven-racks properly covered, or any commercial +dryer.</p> +<p>Work quickly after the blanching and cold-dipping and get the +corn heated as quickly as possible in order to prevent souring. You +get "flat-sour" often when canning if you do not work quickly +enough, and you will get sour vegetables in drying if you work too +slowly.</p> +<p>Where artificial heat is used begin at a lower temperature and +gradually increase it. As the corn is drying, stir it from time to +time and readjust the trays if necessary.</p> +<p>After the drying comes the test to determine whether or not the +corn is sufficiently dry. Vegetables at this point differ from +fruits. Fruits are dried only until leathery, whereas vegetables +are dried until they are bone-dry. They must crackle and snap.</p> +<p>This test is sometimes used to see if the product is +sufficiently dry: Put some of it in a covered glass jar with a +crisp soda cracker and keep them there for a few hours. If the +cracker loses its crispness and becomes soft and damp there is +still too much moisture in the product and it should be dried a +little longer to obtain the degree of dryness required.</p> +<p>After the corn is bone-dry it should, like all other vegetables +and fruits, be conditioned. This means to pour them from one bag or +box to another, once a day for three or four days. This enables you +to notice any moisture that may be left in the dried food. Foods +that show any traces of moisture should be returned to the drying +tray for a short time.</p> +<p>Notice Lima beans particularly, as they require a longer +conditioning period than most vegetables.</p> +<p>After the conditioning, in order to kill all insects and destroy +all eggs, it is advisable to place the vegetables on trays and heat +them in an oven for half an hour at a temperature of 140 degrees +Fahrenheit. Store directly from the oven.</p> +<p>Dried vegetables are stored just as are dried fruits—in +cans, cracked jars that cannot be used for canning, fiber +containers, cheesecloth, paper bags or paraffin containers.</p> +<p>In storing your dried products keep in mind these things: +Protection from moisture, insects, rats, mice, dust and light. If +you observe all these things it is unnecessary to have air-tight +containers.</p> +<p>All varieties of string beans can be dried, but only those fit +for table use should be used. Old, stringy, tough beans will remain +the same kind of beans when dried. There are two ways of preparing +string, wax or snap beans for drying:</p> +<p>1. Wash; remove stem, tip and string. Cut or break into pieces +one-half to one inch long; blanch three to ten minutes, according +to age and freshness, in steam; cold-dip. Place on trays or dryer. +If you have a vegetable slicer it can be used for slicing the +beans.</p> +<p>2. Prepare as above, then blanch the whole beans. After +cold-dipping, thread them on coarse, strong thread, making long +"necklaces" of them; hang them above the stove or out of doors +until dry.</p> +<p>Lima beans should be shelled from the pod and then blanched two +to five minutes if young and tender. If larger and more mature +blanch five to ten minutes.</p> +<p>Okra is blanched for three minutes. If the pods are young and +small, dry them whole. Older pods should be cut into quarter-inch +slices. Small tender pods are sometimes strung on stout thread and +hung up to dry.</p> +<p>Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, removing the +seed, drying in the air, and finishing the drying in the dryer at +130 degrees Fahrenheit. A more satisfactory method is to place +peppers in a biscuit pan in the oven and heat until the skins +blister; or to steam them until the skin softens, peel, split in +half, take out seed, and dry at 110 to 130 degrees. In drying +thick-fleshed peppers like the pimento, do not increase heat too +quickly, but dry slowly and evenly.</p> +<p>Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until +wilted and the drying finished in the dryer, or they may be dried +entirely in the sun.</p> +<p>Peppers often are dried whole. If large they can be strung on +thread; if small the whole plant can be hung up to dry.</p> +<p>Shell full-grown peas and blanch three to five minutes; cold-dip +and then spread in a single layer on trays to dry.</p> +<p>When drying the very tender young sugar peas, use the pod also. +Wash and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Blanch six minutes, cold-dip +and remove surplus moisture before drying. When drying beets always +select young, quickly grown, tender beets. Steam twenty to thirty +minutes, or until the skin cracks. Dip in cold water, peel and +slice into one-eighth to one-quarter inch slices. Then dry.</p> +<p>Carrots having a large, woody core should not be dried. Blanch +six minutes; cold-dip. Carrots are often sliced lengthwise into +pieces about one-eighth inch thick. Parsnips, kohl-rabi, celeriac +and salsify are prepared in the same way as are carrots.</p> +<p>Onions should be held under water while peeling and slicing to +avoid smarting of the eyes. They should be sliced into one-eighth +to one-quarter inch slices. Blanch five minutes, cold-dip, remove +superfluous moisture and dry. Leeks are handled as are onions.</p> +<p>Select well-developed heads of cabbage and remove all loose +outside leaves. Split the cabbage, remove the hard, woody core and +slice the remainder of the head with a kraut slicer or cutter or +with a large, sharp knife. Blanch five to ten minutes and cold-dip; +dry.</p> +<p>Spinach and parsley should be carefully washed. Steam, cold-dip +and dry. If the spinach is sliced the drying will be greatly +facilitated. Beet tops, Swiss chard and celery are prepared like +spinach.</p> +<p>Select sound, well-matured Irish potatoes. Wash and boil or +steam until nearly done. Peel and pass through a meat grinder or a +potato ricer. Collect the shred in layers on a tray and dry until +brittle. If toasted slightly in an oven when dry, the flavor is +improved somewhat; or boil or steam until nearly done, peel, cut +into quarter-inch slices, spread on trays, and dry until brittle. +Peeling may be omitted, but the product will be very much inferior +in flavor. Irish potatoes cannot be satisfactorily dried unless +they are first cooked; otherwise they will discolor.</p> +<p>All root vegetables must be thoroughly cleaned, otherwise an +earthy flavor may cling to them. One decayed root may seriously +affect several pots of vegetable soup.</p> +<br> +<p><b>GENERAL SUGGESTIONS</b></p> +<p>1. All vegetables should be completely dried in from two to +twenty-four hours.</p> +<p>2. Materials should be turned or stirred several times to secure +a uniform product.</p> +<p>3. If heat is used guard against scorching. The door is left +open if an oven is used; the temperature should be about 110 +degrees at the beginning and usually should not exceed 130 degrees. +Onions, string beans and peas will yellow at more than 140 +degrees.</p> +<p>4. A thermometer is essential to successful drying by artificial +heat.</p> +<p>5. It is impossible to give definite lengths of times for the +completion of sun drying, as this varies not only with different +products but with the weather. A sultry, rainy day is the worst for +drying.</p> +<p>6. Vegetables should be stone dry.</p> +<p>7. Succulent vegetables and fruits contain from 80 to 95 per +cent of water, and when dried sufficiently still retain from 15 to +20 per cent; so it is a good plan to weigh before and after drying +as a check. The product should lose from two-thirds to four-fifths +of its weight.</p> +<p>8. Work rapidly to prevent souring of vegetables.</p> +<p>9. Small vegetables, mature beans and peas and small onions may +be dried whole. Larger vegetables should be cut up so as to expose +more surface for drying.</p> +<p>10. The slicing, cutting and shredding should be done before +blanching, with the exception of corn, which is cut from the cob +after blanching.</p> +<br> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING VEGETABLES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PRODUCT</td> +<td align='left'>PREPARATION</td> +<td align='left'>BLANCHING BY STEAM, TIME ON MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>ARTIFICIAL HEAT TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° +F. APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS</td> +<td align='left'>FAN—NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>ASPARAGUS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash and cut into pieces</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>4 to 8</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEANS, GREEN STRING</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; remove stem, tip and string</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEANS, WAX</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; remove stem, tip and string; cut into pieces +or dry whole</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEETS</td> +<td align='left'>Leave skin on while steaming</td> +<td align='left'><a href='#Footnote_1_5'>[1]</a>20 to 30</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BRUSSELS SPROUTS</td> +<td align='left'>Divide into small pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CABBAGE</td> +<td align='left'>Remove all loose outside leaves; split cabbage and +remove woody core; slice or shred</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CARROTS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; slice lengthwise into pieces ⅛-inch +thick</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CAULIFLOWER</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; divide into small bunches</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CELERY</td> +<td align='left'>Wash carefully and remove leaves; slice</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CELERIAC</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; slice into ⅛-inch pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CORN, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Blanch on cob. From 12 ears of corn you should +obtain 1 pound dried corn</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>2 days</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>KOHL-RABI</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; slice into ⅛-inch pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>8 to 12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LEEKS</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into ½-inch strips</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>8 to 12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LIMA BEANS (YOUNG)</td> +<td align='left'>Shell</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LIMA BEANS (OLD)</td> +<td align='left'>Shell</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>MUSHROOMS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; cut into pieces</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>OKRA</td> +<td align='left'>Dry young pods whole. Cut old pods in +¼-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>ONIONS</td> +<td align='left'>Remove outside papery covering; cut off tops and +roots; slice thin</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PARSNIPS</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; cut into ½-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PEAS</td> +<td align='left'>Can be dried whole or put through grinder</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PEPPERS</td> +<td align='left'>Skin blistered in oven, steamed or +sun-withered</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, IRISH</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and rice them</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>2½</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, IRISH</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and slice them ¼-inch thick</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and rice them</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>2½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and slice them ¼-inch thick</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PUMPKINS AND SQUASH</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into ⅓-inch strips; peel; remove +seeds</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SPINACH</td> +<td align='left'>Wash thoroughly; can be sliced</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SALSIFY</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; cut into ½-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SWISS CHARD</td> +<td align='left'>Wash thoroughly; can be sliced</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>TOMATOES</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; slice after steaming to loosen skin</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>TURNIPS</td> +<td align='left'>Pare and slice thin</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_5' id="Footnote_1_5"></a> +<p>[1] Till skin cracks.</p> +<p>In a properly constructed sun drier vegetables will dry in from +3 to 12 hours under normal summer conditions. Products dried in a +sun drier are superior to those dried in the open without any +protection. Products dry more quickly in high altitudes than at sea +level.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XV' id="CHAPTER_XV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XV</h2> +<h3>EVERY STEP IN BRINING</h3> +<br> +<p>We have learned how to preserve fruit and vegetables by canning +and drying and now we are going to learn another method to preserve +foods, in which salt is used. We use this salt method for +vegetables. It is not adapted to fruits. We may pickle apples, +pears and peaches, but we ferment, brine and dry-salt only +vegetables.</p> +<p>This salt method is not a substitute for drying or canning, but +just an additional method we may employ. Every thrifty housewife of +to-day wants her shelves of canned foods, her boxes of dried foods +and her crocks of salted foods. Each kind has its proper function +to perform in the household. One cannot take the place of the +other.</p> +<p>For women on the farm salting is a salvation. In busy seasons +when canning and drying seem an impossibility, a great many +vegetables can be saved by this method in a very short time. The +labor required is very small, as no cooking is necessary. A good +supply of salt is the one necessity.</p> +<p>Besides the saving of time, salting saves jars, which are +absolutely necessary in canning. Old containers can be used if they +are thoroughly cleansed. The vegetables can be put in any +container, so long as it holds water and is not made of metal. +Metal containers should not be used. Old kegs, butter and lard tubs +if water-tight, stoneware jars or crocks, chipped preserve jars, +glass jars with missing covers and covered enamel buckets can all +be utilized. Avoid using tubs made of pitch or soft pine unless +coated with melted paraffin, as they impart a flavor to the +vegetables. Maple is the best.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THREE METHODS OF SALTING FOOD</b></p> +<p>There are three ways of preserving food by salting: First, +fermentation with dry salting; second, fermentation in brine or +brining; and third, salting without fermentation, or dry +salting.</p> +<p><b>Dry Salting.</b> Fermentation with dry salting consists in +packing the material with a small amount of salt. No water is used, +for the salt will extract the water from the vegetables and this +forms a brine. This is the simplest process of all three and is +used mostly for cabbage. To make sauerkraut proceed as follows: The +outside green leaves of the cabbage should be removed, just as in +preparing the head for boiling. Never use any decayed or bruised +leaves. Quarter the heads and shred the cabbage very finely. There +are shredding machines on the market, but if one is not available +use a slaw cutter or a large sharp knife.</p> +<p>After the cabbage is shredded pack at once into a clean barrel, +keg or tub, or into an earthenware crock holding four or five +gallons. The smaller containers are recommended for household use. +When packing distribute the salt as uniformly as possible, using +one pound of salt to forty pounds of cabbage. Sprinkle a little +salt in the container and put in a layer of three or four inches of +shredded cabbage, then pack down with a wooden utensil like a +potato masher. Repeat with salt, cabbage and packing until the +container is full or the shredded cabbage is all used.</p> +<p>Press the cabbage down as tightly as possible and apply a cloth, +and then a glazed plate or a board cover which will go inside the +holder. If using a wooden cover select wood free from pitch, such +as basswood. On top of this cover place stone, bricks or other +weights—use flint or granite; avoid the use of limestone, +sandstone or marble. These weights serve to keep vegetables beneath +the surface of the liquid. The proportion of salt to food when +fermenting with dry salt is a quarter pound of salt to ten pounds +of food. Do not use more, for the product will taste too salty.</p> +<p>Allow fermentation to proceed for ten days or two weeks, if the +room is warm. In a cellar or other cool place three to five weeks +may be required. Skim off the film which forms when fermentation +starts and repeat this daily if necessary to keep this film from +becoming a scum. When gas bubbles cease to rise when you strike the +side of the container, fermentation is complete. If there is a scum +it should be removed.</p> +<p>As a final step pour very hot melted paraffin over the brine +until it forms a layer from a quarter to a half-inch thick, to +prevent the formation of the scum which occurs if the weather is +warm or the storage place is not well cooled. The cabbage may be +used as soon as the bubbles cease to rise. If scum forms and +remains the cabbage will spoil. You may can the cabbage as soon as +bubbles cease to rise and fermentation is complete. To can, fill +jars, adjust rubbers and partly seal. Sterilize 120 minutes in +hot-water bath, or 60 minutes in steam-pressure outfit at five to +ten pounds pressure.</p> +<p>The vital factor in preserving the material by this method is +the lactic acid which develops in fermentation.</p> +<p>If the vegetables are covered with a very strong brine or are +packed with a fairly large amount of salt, lactic acid fermentation +and also the growth of other forms of bacteria and molds are +prevented. This method of preservation is especially applicable to +those vegetables which contain so little sugar that sufficient +lactic acid cannot be formed by bacterial action to insure their +preservation.</p> +<p>In the well-known method of vinegar pickling the acetic acid of +the vinegar acts as a preservative like the lactic acid produced by +fermentation. Sometimes brining precedes pickling in vinegar, and +often the pickling is modified by the addition of sugar and spices, +which add flavor as well as helping to preserve the fruit or +vegetables. In some cases olive oil or some other table oil is +added to the vinegar, as in the making of oil cucumber pickles.</p> +<p>Besides sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, +greens, kale and dandelions are adapted for fermentation with dry +salting. String beans should be young, tender and not overgrown. +Remove the tip ends and strings; cut or break into pieces about two +inches long. Wash the beet and turnip tops as well as all greens, +in order to remove dirt and grit. Weigh all products that are to be +salted.</p> +<p>For salting, a supply of ordinary fine salt, which can be +purchased in bulk for about two cents a pound, is most satisfactory +for general use. Table salt will do very well, but it is rather +expensive if large quantities of vegetables are to be preserved. +The rather coarse salt—known in the trade as "ground alum +salt"—which is used in freezing ice cream can be used. Rock +salt because of its coarseness and impurities should not be +used.</p> +<p>A weight must be used. The size of the weight depends on the +quantity of material being preserved. For a five-gallon keg a +weight of ten pounds will be sufficient, but if a larger barrel is +used a heavier weight will be needed. The weight should be +sufficient to extract the juices to form a brine, which will cover +the top in about twenty-four hours. If a brine does not form it may +be necessary to add more stones after the material has stood a +while.</p> +<p>There always will be more or less bubbling and foaming of the +brine during the first stages of fermentation. After this ceases a +thin film will appear which will rapidly spread over the whole +surface and quickly develop into a heavy, folded membrane. This +scum is a growth of yeast-like organisms which feed upon the acid +formed by fermentation. If allowed to grow undisturbed it will +eventually destroy all the acid and the fermented material will +spoil. To prevent mold from forming it is necessary to exclude the +air from the surface of the brine.</p> +<p>Perhaps the best method is to cover the surface—over the +board and round the weight—with very hot, melted paraffin. If +the paraffin is hot enough to make the brine boil when poured in, +the paraffin will form a smooth, even layer before hardening. Upon +solidifying, it forms an air-tight seal. Oils, such as cottonseed +oil or the tasteless liquid petroleum, may also be used for this +purpose. As a measure of safety with crocks, it is advisable to +cover the top with a cloth soaked in melted paraffin. Put the cover +in place before the paraffin hardens.</p> +<p>After sealing with paraffin the containers should be set where +they will not be disturbed until the contents are to be used. Any +attempt to remove them from one place to another may break the +paraffin seal and necessitate resealing.</p> +<p>Some vegetables which do not contain sufficient water are better +fermented by covering them with a weak brine. Those which are the +most satisfactory when fermented in this way are cucumbers, string +beans, green tomatoes, beets, beet tops, turnip tops, corn and +green peas. The general directions for this brining are as +follows:</p> +<p>Wash the vegetables, drain off the surplus water and pack them +in a keg, crock, or other utensil until it is nearly +full—within about three inches of the top of the vessel. +Prepare a weak brine as follows: To each gallon of water used add +one-half pint of vinegar and three-fourths of a cup of salt and +stir until the salt is entirely dissolved. The vinegar is used +primarily to keep down the growth of injurious bacteria until the +lactic-acid ferment starts, but it also adds to the flavor. Spices +may be added if desired.</p> +<p>The amount of brine necessary to cover the vegetables will be +equal to about one-half the volume of the material to be fermented. +For example, if a five-gallon keg is to be packed, two and one-half +gallons will be needed. It is best to make up at one time all the +brine needed on one day. A clean tub or barrel can be used for +mixing the brine. Pour the brine over the vegetables and cover. Set +the vessel and its contents away in a moderately warm room to +ferment.</p> +<p>When fermentation ceases, the container should be placed in a +cool cellar or storeroom and the surface of the liquid treated to +prevent mold. Before adding the paraffin or cottonseed oil, any +scum or mold which may have formed on the surface of the liquid +should be removed by skimming.</p> +<p>These general directions can always be followed with successful +results, but some modifications are desirable for certain +vegetables.</p> +<p><b>Cucumbers—Dill Style.</b> To pickle cucumbers wash the +cucumbers and pack into a clean, water-tight barrel, keg or crock. +On the bottom of the barrel place a layer of dill weed and a +handful of mixed spice. Add another layer of dill and another +handful of spice when the barrel is half full, and when almost +full, add a third layer. If a keg or crock is used, the amount of +dill and spice can be reduced in proportion to the size of the +receptacle. When the container has been filled to within a few +inches of the top, add a layer of covering material—beet +leaves or grape leaves—about an inch thick. If any spoilage +should occur on the surface, this layer will protect the vegetables +beneath. Press down with a clean board weighted with bricks or +stone.</p> +<p>Make the brine as given in the general rules. Add sufficient +brine to cover the material and allow it to stand twenty-four +hours. Then make air-tight. The time necessary for complete +fermentation to occur depends upon the temperature. In a warm place +five days to a week may suffice; in a cool cellar three to four +weeks.</p> +<p>The dill and spices may be omitted, in which case we then have +plain cucumbers.</p> +<p><b>String Beans.</b> Remove the ends and strings from the beans +and cut into pieces about two inches long; pack in the container; +cover with brine and ferment.</p> +<p><b>Green Tomatoes.</b> Green tomatoes should be packed whole and +prepared as cucumbers. The dill and spice may be added if +desired.</p> +<p><b>Beets.</b> Beets must be scrubbed thoroughly and packed +whole. If peeled or sliced before being fermented the beets lose +considerable color and flavor.</p> +<p><b>Beet Tops and Turnip Tops.</b> These should be washed +thoroughly and packed into the container without being cut up.</p> +<p><b>Peas.</b> Green peas should be shelled and packed in the same +way as string beans. It is advisable to use fairly small containers +for peas, so that the quantity opened up will be used before it has +a chance to spoil.</p> +<p><b>Corn.</b> Husk and clean the silk from the corn; wash and +place the ears on end in the jar, packing the jar nearly full. Pour +the brine over the ears; add cover and weights. Fermented corn has +a sour taste, which may not be relished if the corn is eaten alone. +For this reason it will be preferable in most cases to preserve +corn by canning, drying or by salting without fermentation. +Fermented corn, however, may be used in the preparation of some +dishes, such as chowders, omelets, and so forth, where its flavor +will be masked to some extent by the other ingredients. To some +people this peculiar acid taste of fermented corn is not at all +objectionable.</p> +<p><b>Salting Without Fermentation.</b> In this method the +vegetables are packed with enough salt to prevent fermentation or +the growth of yeasts or molds. The vegetables preserved most +satisfactorily by this method are dandelions, beet tops, turnip +tops, spinach, kale, chard, cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, +green peas and corn. The following directions should be +followed:</p> +<p>The vegetables should be washed, drained and weighed. The amount +of salt needed will be a quarter of the weight of the vegetables. +Kegs or crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a layer of +vegetables about an inch thick on the bottom of the container. +Cover this with salt. Continue making alternate layers of +vegetables and salt until the container is almost filled. The salt +should be evenly distributed so that it will not be necessary to +use more salt than the quantity required in proportion to the +weights of the vegetables that are used.</p> +<p>Cover the surface with a cloth, and a board of glazed plate. +Place a weight on these and set aside in a cool place. If +sufficient liquor to cover the vegetables has not been extracted +pour in enough strong brine—one pound of salt to two quarts +of water—to cover the surface round the corner.</p> +<p>The top layer of vegetables should be kept under the brine to +prevent molding. There will be some bubbling at first. As soon as +this stops, set the container where it will not be disturbed until +ready for use. Seal by pouring very hot paraffin over the +surface.</p> +<p>String beans should be cut in two-inch pieces. Peas should be +shelled. Cabbage should be shredded in the same way as for +sauerkraut. Corn, however, requires somewhat different treatment, +and the directions for salting it are as follows:</p> +<p><b>Salted Corn.</b> Husk the ears of corn and remove the silk. +Cook in boiling water for about ten minutes to set the milk. Cut +off the corn from the cob with a sharp knife. Weigh the corn and +pack in layers with a quarter its weight of fine salt, as described +above.</p> +<p>Some experts insist on blanching and cold-dipping all vegetables +for dry-salting without fermentation. They say that, though it is +not necessary, it makes the tissues softer and consequently they +are more easily penetrated by the salt. Furthermore, when preparing +these products for the table the salt soaks out more readily and +the products cook much more quickly if they have been blanched. So +where there is time it seems advisable to blanch for five minutes +for dry-salting.</p> +<p>If properly prepared and stored, fermented, brined and +dry-salted products will keep for a long time. It is absolutely +necessary to prevent mold from growing on the surface of the brine +of fermented vegetables, by the addition of paraffin or in some +other way. Protection of the surface of dry-salted vegetables is +desirable, but not necessary if the containers are covered to +prevent the evaporation of the brine. Most trouble with the +fermented or salted products may be traced to carelessness in +protecting the surface of the brine.</p> +<br> +<p><b>POINTS TO REMEMBER</b></p> +<p>These are the special things to remember about fermentation, +brining and dry-salting:</p> +<p>1. For fermentation, such as in making sauerkraut, use a quarter +pound of salt to ten pounds of food material. For every 100 pounds +of food add two and a half pounds of salt.</p> +<p>2. For brining use three-quarters of a cupful of salt and one +cupful of vinegar to each gallon of water.</p> +<p>3. For dry-salting use one pound of salt to four pounds of +food.</p> +<p>4. Do not use vinegar, pickle or pork barrels as containers for +salted foods unless they are very thoroughly scalded.</p> +<p>5. Thoroughly scald all containers, covers, weights and cloths +before using.</p> +<p>6. If using glass jars put a cork inside to press the food down. +If white vaseline is rubbed on the rubber rings the solution will +not get through rubber and be lost.</p> +<p>7. After adding salt or brine for fermented foods, cover the +food material with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth six inches +larger in diameter than the diameter of the container. Tuck this in +round the top of the food, cover with weight and adjust lid of +container.</p> +<p>8. During fermentation keep the cover on loosely until all +bubbles cease. Test by slightly knocking container to see if any +bubbles appear on the surface.</p> +<p>9. When you have made this test and discovered that the bubbling +has ceased, then it is time to protect the food from all organisms +which destroy lactic acid.</p> +<p>10. To protect the food cover with hot melted paraffin or liquid +oil.</p> +<p>11. If evaporation takes place, add water or brine to make up +the original amount of water.</p> +<p>12. When dry sealing is used let the product stand twenty-four +to thirty-six hours, then add strong brine to fill the containers. +The water from the vegetables usually only half fills the +containers.</p> +<h3>TABLE FOR PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY SALT</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>METHODS</td> +<td align='left'>VEGETABLES ADAPTED TO METHOD</td> +<td align='left'>AMOUNT OF SALT</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER INGREDIENTS NEEDED</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>I. Dry salting with fermentation.</td> +<td align='left'>Cabbage, which is converted by this method into +sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, greens, kale and +dandelions.</td> +<td align='left'>¼-lb. salt to 10 lbs. food or 2½ +lbs. salt to 100 lbs. food.</td> +<td align='left'>No other.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>II. Fermentation with brine.</td> +<td align='left'>Cucumbers, string beans, green tomatoes, beets, +beet tops, corn and green peas.</td> +<td align='left'>¾-cup salt, 1 gallon water, 1 cup vinegar +for brine. Amount of brine required is equal to ½ volume of +food.</td> +<td align='left'>Dill and spices can be added. 1 lb. dry dill or 2 +lbs. green dill and 1 oz. spices for a>4-gallon crock.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>III. Dry salting without fermentation.</td> +<td align='left'>Dandelions, beet tops, turnip tops, spinach, kale, +chard, cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, green peas, and +corn.</td> +<td align='left'>25 lbs. salt to 100 lbs. of food. Salt should be +¼ weight of vegetable.</td> +<td align='left'>Blanch and cold-dip vegetables for five minutes +before dry salting.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVI' id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVI</h2> +<h3>CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT</h3> +<br> +<p>Many farmers seem to have more trouble with the curing of meats +than with the slaughtering. This part of the work is indeed very +important as it determines whether one will have good tasting cured +meat or meat that is too salty or possibly that is far removed from +the original taste of the raw product.</p> +<p>It is worth every farmer or farmerette's attention to spend some +time on this problem as it pays so well in the resulting, good +tasting meat. Why not have a superior grade of home-cured meat as +easily as a poor grade? Work carefully and accurately done will +produce good results while work slovenly or carelessly done can +produce nothing but poor results. To cure meat so that it is not +only delicious but has good keeping qualities is an art and +accomplishment worth striving for. A pride in this work is just as +fine and worth while as the housewife's pride in her culinary skill +or the pride of any other professional in his or her line of work. +To-day we are thinking of food and its problems as never before and +it behooves us all to put more time, thought, care and skill on all +things that pertain to foods. And as meat is such an essential item +in our diet, meat problems should receive their due attention.</p> +<p>All meat that is to be cured should always be thoroughly cooled +and cut into the desired convenient sizes before it is put into the +brine or packed in dry salt.</p> +<p>The pieces most commonly used for curing are the ham, shoulder +and bacon pieces from pork. From beef we use the cheaper, tougher +cuts such as the plate, shoulder and chuck ribs. Mutton is seldom +cured and preserved.</p> +<p>The ham should be cut off at the hock joint, the spare ribs +taken out of the bacon, and the ragged edges trimmed off smooth. If +ragged edges or scraggy ends are left these portions will become +too dry in the curing and will practically be wasted.</p> +<p>After all the animal heat is removed from the meat and it is +properly cut it is then ready for the curing. If salt is put on the +meat before the animal heat is all removed, it will have a tendency +to shrink the muscles and form a coating on the outside which will +not allow the generating gases to escape. Meat should never be in a +frozen condition when the salt is added as the frost will prevent +the proper penetration of the brine and uneven curing will be the +result.</p> +<br> +<p><b>METHODS OF CURING MEAT</b></p> +<p>The two most common methods of curing meat are first the brine +or sugar cure process and second the dry-curing process. For +general farm use the brine cured process is the better. It requires +less time, less effort and not such an exacting place for the work. +On most farms it is impossible to secure a desirable place in which +to do the dry-curing as the meat is exposed to rats, cats, flies +and other insects. The dry-curing requires considerable time to rub +and salt the meat at different times while the only attention that +is necessary for brine-curing is to properly prepare and pack the +meat in the vessel and prepare the brine for it.</p> +<br> +<p><b>UTENSILS FOR CURING</b></p> +<p>If possible use a round container for the curing. It is easier +to put the meat in tightly, and the space can be used to better +advantage. A hardwood barrel of some kind is excellent. Sirup, +molasses or lard barrels which have been thoroughly cleaned are +very satisfactory. If you use a vinegar or an oil barrel it should +be well burned on the inside before using. Stone crocks or jars are +sometimes used but they are expensive and cumbersome to handle +besides the constant danger of loss of brine from breakage.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PRESERVATIVES</b></p> +<p>For curing the meat the farmer usually uses salt, salt peter, +white or brown sugar or molasses. These are the necessary +preservatives. The others such as boracic acid, borax and soda are +often used for sweetening the brine and to keep it from spoiling +but are not absolutely essential. The salt extracts moisture and +acts as a preservative. The sugar or molasses imparts a nice flavor +and has a tendency to keep the muscle tissue soft in contrast to +the salt, which has a tendency to make it hard and dry. So the salt +and sugar have two distinct functions to perform, the one to harden +and preserve, the other to soften and sweeten. If you have a +favorite recipe that has proved satisfactory and you want to use +sorghum or molasses instead of sugar add one pound more of the +molasses. If you have been accustomed to using 2 pounds of sugar +then use 3 pounds of the other sweetening.</p> +<p>Salt peter is not absolutely necessary as far as the preserving +is concerned but it helps to hold the red color of the lean meat. +If salt peter is not used the lean meat will be gray in color. It +may possibly be a little tenderer if the salt peter is not used as +the salt peter tends to harden the meat. Chili salt peter can be +substituted in place of salt peter, if only four-fifths as much is +used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE SUGAR BRINE CURE</b></p> +<p>All formulas for the sugar brine cure are practically the same +varying only a little in the proportions of sugar, salt and salt +peter. If you have a formula that you have tried for years and have +found it to be satisfactory there is no reason you should attempt a +new one. But for those who want to try a different formula or +recipe I will give you this reliable one that is widely used and +indorsed by several agricultural colleges.</p> +<p>The container should be scalded thoroughly. Sprinkle a layer of +salt over the bottom and over each layer of meat as it is packed +in, skin down. When full, cover meat with boards and weight down +with a stone so that all will be below the brine, which is made as +follows:</p> +<p>Weigh out for each 100 pounds of meat, 8 pounds of salt, 2 +pounds of sugar (preferably brown) or 3 pounds of molasses, and 2 +ounces of salt peter. Dissolve all in 4 gallons of water. This +should be boiled, and when thoroughly cooled, cover the meat. Seven +days after brine is put on, meat should be repacked in another +barrel in reverse order. The pieces that were on top should be +placed on the bottom. The brine is poured over as before. This is +repeated on the fourteenth and twenty-first days, thus giving an +even cure to all pieces. Bacon should remain in the brine from four +to six weeks, and hams six to eight weeks, depending on the size of +the pieces. When cured, each piece should be scrubbed with tepid +water and hung to drain several days before smoking; no two pieces +should come in contact. For all curing always use dairy salt and +<i>not table</i> salt, as the latter contains starch to keep it dry +and this starch may cause the meat to spoil. If you carefully +follow these directions you will have delicious sugar-cured hams +and bacon.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CORNED BEEF</b></p> +<p>It is desirable to have an ample supply of corned beef on hand. +For this any part of the beef may be used but the parts usually +selected are the plate, rump, cross-ribs and brisket, which are the +tougher cuts of the meat. The brisket and plate are especially good +because of the character of the fat, which is somewhat like a +tissue. Cut all around the meat to about the same thickness, so +that it will make an even layer in the barrel. It is best to remove +the bone, although this is not necessary. Be sure to start the +pickling or curing while the meat is perfectly fresh, but well +chilled. Do not wait like some farmers do until they think the meat +is beginning to spoil and then salt it down just to save it. Allow +ten pounds of dairy salt to each 100 pounds of meat. Sprinkle a +layer of the salt in the bottom of the crock, barrel, or whatever +container is used. Have the salt about one-fourth of an inch in +depth. After the layer is in the bottom of the container put the +cuts of meat in as closely as possible, making the layer five or +six inches in thickness, then put on another layer of salt, +following that with another layer of meat. Repeat until the meat +and salt have all been packed in the barrel, care being taken to +reserve salt enough for a good layer on the top. Cover the meat +with a board and weight down with a stone and <i>not</i> an +<i>iron</i> weight. Do not allow any meat to project from the salt +or mold will start and the brine will spoil in a short time. Let +the meat stand over-night.</p> +<p>Prepare a brine by boiling 7 pounds salt, 3 pounds brown sugar +or 6 pounds molasses, 2 ounces baking soda, 2 ounces salt peter and +4 gallons water for every 100 pounds of meat. This quantity of +brine should be sufficient to cover that amount.</p> +<p>Remove any scum that rises to the surface and filter the hot +brine through muslin. Set the brine aside, best over-night, to +become perfectly cold before using. In the morning tip the +container in which the meat is packed so that all liquor which has +separated from the meat over night may drain off. Cover the meat +with the cold brine. Put the container in a cool place. The curing +will be more satisfactory if the meat is left at a temperature of +about 38 degrees F. Never let the temperature go above 50 degrees +F. and there is some risk with even a temperature of 40 degrees F. +if it is continuous. The sugar or molasses in the brine has a +tendency to ferment in a warm place.</p> +<p>After about five days the meat should be overhauled and +repacked, putting the pieces which were previously on the bottom on +top. Pour back the same brine, and five days later repeat the +overhauling. This may seem like some trouble and possibly look like +a useless waste of time but it is well worth while as it insures a +more rapid and uniform curing of the meat.</p> +<p>When unpacking the meat watch the brine to see that it is not +ropy or moldy. If you find either condition existing remove the +meat and rinse each piece with cold water and after scalding the +container pack the meat as at first with a little salt. Scald and +skim the brine and after it is cold pour it on the meat as before. +You can use corned beef if necessary after a week in the cure, but +it is not thoroughly cured until it has been from 20 to 30 days in +the brine. If kept for sixty days it will be salty enough to need +freshening before cooking.</p> +<p>If the meat has been corned during the winter, and is to be kept +until summer, watch the brine closely during the spring as it is +more likely to spoil then than at any other time.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PLAIN SALT PORK</b></p> +<p>Rub each piece of meat with dairy salt, and pack closely in a +container. Let stand over-night. The next day weigh out ten pounds +of salt and two ounces of salt peter for each 100 pounds of meat, +and dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. Pour this brine, +when cold, over the meat, cover, and weight the meat down to keep +it under the brine. The pork should be kept in the brine until +used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SMOKING CURED MEATS</b></p> +<p>Of course many farmers never attempt to smoke their cured meats +but use them directly from the brine but if possible it is more +satisfactory to smoke them before using for several reasons. First, +the process of smoking helps to preserve the meat. The creosote +formed by the combustion of the wood closes the pores of the meat +to a great extent thus excluding the air and helping it to keep and +at the same time makes the meat objectionable to insects. In the +second place, pickled or cured meats taste better and are more +palatable if smoked. Of course the smoking must be properly done +and the right kind of fuel must be used.</p> +<p><b>The Smokehouse and the Smoke.</b> It is not necessary to have +a regular smokehouse—although it is a delightful addition to +any farm. Here again a community meat ring is of great advantage. +One smokehouse will answer for many families. This is the ideal +arrangement and it can easily be managed if you are progressive and +anxious enough to supply your family with delicious meat the year +around saving time and money.</p> +<p>If, however, you have to do your own smoking and smoke only a +small quantity at a time a barrel or box will answer. Overheating +of the meat must be guarded against.</p> +<p>Green hickory or any of the hardwoods or maple should be used +for the smoking. Pine or any other resinous woods should not be +used as they give a disagreeable flavor to the meat. If it is +impossible to get hardwood use corncobs rather than soft wood. The +corncobs will leave a dirty deposit on the meat, which is carbon. +It is not objectionable only from the standpoint of "looks." The +meat which you are going to smoke should be removed from the brine +the day before the smoking. A half hour soaking in cold water +prevents a crust of salt from forming on the outside. Do not hang +the meat so that any two pieces touch as this would prevent uniform +smoking.</p> +<p>Always start with a slow fire so as to warm the meat up +gradually. Thirty-six to forty-eight hours of heat as near 120 +degrees F. as possible will be sufficient under most +circumstances.</p> +<p><b>How to Store Smoked Meats.</b> A dry, cool cellar or attic +where there is good circulation is a good place for storage. If the +meat is to be used soon the meat can hang without coverings but for +long keeping you will have to wrap it when cold in waxed paper and +then in burlap, muslin or canvas bags and then hang it, after it is +tied very tightly to prevent insects from getting in, in a room +with a cool uniform temperature.</p> +<p>Some farmers get satisfactory results by wrapping the meats in +strong bags and then burying them in oat bins.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>Frequently when animals are butchered on the farm there are +often wholesome portions of the carcass that are not used. All +trimmings, cheeks, liver, tongue, breast and other pieces can be +made into bologna, headcheese or some other form of sausage. +Sausage making is an art worth acquiring. There is always a good +demand for fresh and smoked country sausage, so if you wish to sell +some you will have no trouble in finding a market for your product +if it is a good one.</p> +<p>To make sausage you should have a meat grinder, which is an +absolute essential on every farm. If you do not have one already +then buy a No. 22 or No. 32.</p> +<p>In addition to the grinder you will need a stuffer attachment +which costs very little. A knife, cord, string, a clean tube and +casings or muslin bags will complete your equipment. The muslin +bags can be of any size but the easiest to handle are 12 inches +long and 2 inches in diameter. If the sausage is stuffed into these +bags they must be paraffined for home use. If you do not want to +bother with casings or bags put the sausage in stone crocks or tin +pans with a layer of lard or paraffin on top.</p> +<p>The best sausage is made by using 3 parts of lean meat to one of +fat. When using the grinder, distribute the lean and fat meat as +uniformly as possible.</p> +<p>You are not necessarily limited to pork sausage, for there are +many other delicious varieties you can make. They vary in the +different kinds of meat used and in the different seasonings and +spices.</p> +<p>Breakfast sausage has bread added to it; frankfurters are smoked +pork sausage in casings; liver sausage has pork and beef or veal +and bread in it; and blood sausage, as its name suggests, has blood +(preferably from a hog) added to it. Then there is tomato sausage +which is made of pulp from fresh tomatoes, pork sausage and +crackers. Summer sausage is made in the winter and kept for use +during the summer. After being dried and cured it will keep for +months. Brain sausage is delicious. To make it calves' brains are +mixed with lean pork. Cambridge sausage has rice added to it.</p> +<p>Headcheese is usually made from the hog's head but odds and ends +also can be used not only from pork but from beef and veal.</p> +<p>Scrapple usually means the head and feet of hogs but it can be +made from any hog meat. It is a good food as it uses cornmeal. It +makes a change from fried mush and most men working on a farm +relish it.</p> +<p>Sausage can be made from mutton mixed with pork in much the same +way as beef is used for similar purposes. A general formula would +be 2 parts of mutton to 3 parts pork with seasonings.</p> +<p>With a plentiful supply of good home-cured and home-smoked +meats, together with several varieties of sausages, you can feel +you are well equipped to feed your family with its share of meat. +Everything will have been utilized, nothing will have been wasted. +You produced your own meat, you slaughtered and cured and smoked it +and put all trimmings and other "left-overs" into appetizing food +for your family and you have saved money. You have utilized things +at hand and required no transportation facilities. And best of all, +you have the very finest in the land for your family and that gives +one a perfectly justifiable pride in the work accomplished.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVII' id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVII</h2> +<h3>PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS</h3> +<br> +<p>As one-half of the yearly egg crop is produced in March, April, +May and June consumers would do well to store enough at that time +to use when production is light. Fifty dozen eggs should be stored +for a family of five to use during the months of October, November, +December and January, at which time the market price of eggs is at +the highest.</p> +<p>When canning them <i>the eggs must be fresh</i>, preferably not +more than two or three days old. This is the reason why it is much +more satisfactory to put away eggs produced in one's own chicken +yard or one's neighbor's.</p> +<p>Infertile eggs are best if they can be obtained—so, after +the hatching exclude the roosters from the flock and kill them for +table use as needed.</p> +<p><i>The shells must be clean.</i> Washing an egg with a soiled +shell lessens its keeping quality. The protective gelatinous +covering over the shell is removed by water and when this is gone +the egg spoils more rapidly. Use the soiled eggs for immediate use +and the clean ones for storage.</p> +<p><i>The shells also must be free from even the tiniest crack.</i> +One cracked egg will spoil a large number of sound eggs when packed +in water glass.</p> +<p>Earthenware crocks are good containers. <i>The crocks must be +clean and sound.</i> Scald them and let them cool completely before +use. A crock holding six gallons will accommodate eighteen dozen +eggs and about twenty-two pints of solution. Too large crocks are +not desirable, since they increase the liability of breaking some +of the eggs, and spoiling the entire batch.</p> +<p>It must be remembered that the eggs on the bottom crack first +and that those in the bottom of the crock are the last to be +removed for use. Eggs can be put up in smaller crocks and the eggs +put in the crock first should be used first in the household.</p> +<br> +<p><b>METHOD OF STORING</b></p> +<p>There are many satisfactory methods of storing eggs. The +commercial method is that of cold storage and if it were not for +this method winter eggs would be beyond the average purse.</p> +<p>The fact that eggs have been held in cold storage does not +necessarily mean that they are of low quality. Carefully handled +cold-storage eggs often are of better quality than fresh local eggs +that have been improperly cared for.</p> +<p>In the home they may be packed by several methods: Salt, oats or +bran; covering them with vaseline, butter, lard, paraffin or +prepared ointments; immersion in brine, salicylic acid, water glass +(sodium silicate) or limewater.</p> +<p>Any of these methods will keep the eggs for short periods if +stored in a cool place. The salt, oats and bran are very +satisfactory. The ointments also are satisfactory. The water glass +and limewater will keep eggs without loss for a year. However, it +is not wise to put down more eggs than is necessary to tide over +the period of high price.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WATER GLASS METHOD</b></p> +<p>"Water glass" is known to the chemist as sodium silicate. It can +be purchased by the quart from druggists or poultry supply men. It +is a pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It is diluted in the +proportion of one part of silicate to nine parts of distilled +water, rain water, or other water. <i>In any case, the water should +be boiled and then allowed to cool.</i> Half fill the vessel with +this solution and place the eggs in it, being careful not to crack +them. The eggs can be added a few at a time until the container is +filled. Be sure to keep about two inches of water glass above the +eggs. Cover the crock to prevent evaporation and place it in the +coolest place available from which the crock will not have to be +moved. Wax paper covered over and tied around the top of the crock +can be used. Inspect the crock from time to time and replace any +water that has evaporated with cool boiled water.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIMEWATER METHOD</b></p> +<p>Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is +slightly less expensive than water glass. A solution is made by +placing two or three pounds of unslaked lime in five gallons of +water, which has been boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the +mixture to stand until the lime settles and the liquid is clear. +The eggs should be placed in a clean earthenware jar or other +suitable vessel and covered to a depth of two inches with the +liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse in clean, cold water and +use immediately.</p> +<p>If using the limewater method add a little of the lime sediment +to insure a constantly saturated solution. If a thin white crust +appears on the limewater solution it is due to the formation of +calcium carbonate coming in contact with the air and consequently +does no harm.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANDLING EGGS AT HOME</b></p> +<p>If you purchase the eggs that are to be stored it is safer to +candle them. Examining eggs to determine their quality is called +"candling." Every one knows that some eggs are better than others, +but the ease with which the good ones can be picked out is not +generally understood. The better the quality of eggs, the surer the +housewife can be that they will keep satisfactorily.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOMEMADE CANDLER</b></p> +<p>The equipment for candling usually consists of either a wooden, +a metal, or a cardboard box and a kerosene lamp or an electric +light. A very inexpensive egg candler for home use can be made from +a large shoe-box or similar cardboard box. Remove the ends of the +box, and cut a hole about the size of a half-dollar in one side. +Slip the box over the lamp or electric bulb, darken the room, hold +the egg, with the large end up, before the opening in the box and +its quality can easily be judged.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SIGNS OF A GOOD EGG</b></p> +<p>When held before the opening of the candle, good eggs will look +clear and firm. The air cell (the white spot at the large end of +the eggs) should be small, not larger than a dime, and the yolk may +be dimly seen in the center of the egg. A large air cell and a +dark, freely moving yolk indicate that the egg is stale.</p> +<p>If the shell contents appear black or very dark, the egg is +absolutely unfit for food. If you are in doubt about the quality of +any eggs you are candling break a few of them into a dish and +examine them. This is an excellent way to learn to know how good +and bad eggs look when they are being candled.</p> +<p>Discard all eggs that have shrunken, loose contents, a watery +appearance, cracked and thin shells. Eggs of this description will +not keep and are apt to spoil the eggs close around them. Any egg +that floats in the solution should be discarded.</p> +<p>When packing eggs whether in salt, oats, or in solution place +them with small end down. When packing them in salt, oats, etc., do +not allow any two eggs to touch.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING THE EGGS</b></p> +<p>One gallon of water glass as purchased will make enough +preservative to preserve from 75 to 100 dozen eggs.</p> +<p>Three gallons of either water glass solution or limewater +solution will preserve from 200 to 240 dozen eggs according to the +size of the eggs and the shape of the container.</p> +<p>The cost of preserving eggs by the water glass method is about +one cent per dozen eggs, not considering the cost of the container. +The lime water method is still cheaper.</p> +<p>The following gives the sizes of jars with approximate capacity +for eggs and the amount of water glass solution required to cover +the eggs:</p> +<p>1 gallon jar—40 eggs, 3½ pints of solution or +1¾ qt.</p> +<p>2 gallon jar—80 eggs, 8 pints of solution or 2 quarts.</p> +<p>3 gallon jar—120 eggs, 11 pints of solution or 5½ +quarts.</p> +<p>4 gallon jar—160 eggs, 14½ pints of solution or +7¼ quarts.</p> +<p>5 gallon jar—200 eggs, 18 pints of solution or 9 +quarts.</p> +<p>6 gallon jar—216 eggs, 22 pints of solution or 11 +quarts.</p> +<p>10 gallon jar—400 eggs, 36 pints of solution or 18 +quarts.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO USE PRESERVED EGGS</b></p> +<p>When the eggs are to be used, remove them as desired, rinse in +clean, cold water, and use immediately.</p> +<p>Eggs preserved in water glass can be used for soft boiling or +poaching up to November. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole +in the large end of the shell with a needle to keep them from +cracking, as the preservative seals the pores of the shell and +prevents the escape of gases, which is possible in the strictly +fresh egg.</p> +<p>They are satisfactory for frying until about December. From that +time until the end of the usual storage period—that is until +March—they can be used for omelettes, scrambled eggs, +custards, cakes and general cookery. As the eggs age, the white +becomes thinner and is harder to beat. The yolk membrane becomes +more delicate and it is correspondingly difficult to separate the +whites from the yolks. Sometimes the white of the egg is tinged +pink after very long keeping in water glass. This is due, probably, +to a little iron which is in the sodium silicate, but which +apparently does not injure the eggs for food purposes.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVIII' id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> +<h3>HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>Towards the end of the canning season most housewives have used +every available glass jar and tin can and hesitate about purchasing +a new supply. They have dried and brined many products and yet they +feel, and rightly so, that they would like still more vegetables +for winter use. There still remains another method that they may +employ to provide themselves with a plentiful supply of vegetables +and these vegetables can be in the fresh state too. Neither canned, +dried, pickled or salted but fresh.</p> +<p>Canning, drying, pickling and salting are essential and +necessary but they can not take the place of storage. To keep +vegetables in their natural state is the easiest and simplest form +of food preservation. Of course, you must take proper precautions +against freezing and decay. If you do this you can have an abundant +supply of many kinds of fresh vegetables all winter, where climatic +and living conditions will permit. Storage costs but little money +and little effort and yet it is very satisfactory.</p> +<p>There are many vegetables that can be stored to good advantage. +They are: Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Beans, Celery, Carrots, Chicory +or Endive, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Lima Beans, Onions, +Sweet Potatoes, Squash (Winter), Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, +Tomatoes, Turnips.</p> +<p>To get good results in any kind of storage, you must observe +four things:</p> +<ul> +<li>1. Proper ventilation.</li> +<li>2. Proper regulation of temperature.</li> +<li>3. Sufficient moisture.</li> +<li>4. Good condition of vegetables when stored.</li> +</ul> +<p>There are six different ways to store vegetables. They are: +cellar storage, pit storage, outdoor cellar or cave storage, attic +storage, sand boxes and pantry storage.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CELLAR STORAGE</b></p> +<p>We will first of all consider cellar or basement storage. One of +the most convenient places for the storage of vegetables is a cool, +well-ventilated and reasonably dry cellar underneath the house. +This cellar must have windows or some method of ventilation, must +not be too warm and not so cold that food will freeze. If there is +proper ventilation there can be some dampness without injury to the +vegetables. If your cellar or basement floods easily or has water +standing in it anywhere it should not be used for vegetable +storage.</p> +<p>If there is a furnace in the cellar or basement a small room as +far as possible from the heating plant should be partitioned off. +Do not build a room in the middle of the cellar, for two sides of +the room should consist of outside walls.</p> +<p>If possible have two outside windows for proper regulation of +the temperature and for good ventilation. If you cannot have two +windows have one.</p> +<p>A very good arrangement for constant circulation of air consists +in having a stove-pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of +the window to admit cold air. One of the upper panes of the window +can be removed to allow for the escape of warm air. That is, of +course, if the window is made of nine or twelve small panes of +squares of glass. In severely cold weather this upper pane can be +replaced or the opening stuffed up in some way.</p> +<p>If you do not have an old stove-pipe you can make a wooden flue +of old boards or old discarded boxes.</p> +<p>Most cellars and basements are now made with concrete floors. +The ideal floor for storage purposes is an earth floor. However, we +can put two or three inches of sand on our concrete floors and get +good results. Sprinkle the sand with water from time to time.</p> +<p>Put the vegetables that are to be stored in boxes, baskets, +barrels or crates. Use containers that hold only two or three +bushels apiece. If larger boxes or barrels are used there is always +danger of heating and decay. Of course, proper precautions should +be taken against mice.</p> +<p>An excellent way to prevent wilting of crops and shrinkage is to +put moist leaves, oak or maple, in the containers with the +vegetables. Moist sand is sometimes used but it is much heavier to +handle than the leaves. It is no difficult matter to rake the lawn +when you are ready to store the vegetables.</p> +<p>The vegetables that are adapted for cellar storage are beets, +cabbage, carrots, celery, parsnips, potatoes, salsify and +turnips.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PIT STORAGE</b></p> +<p>There are two kinds of pits that may be used for storage. Those +that are not frost-proof and those which are frost-proof.</p> +<p>Some vegetables are not injured by being held in a frozen +condition during the winter months. Cabbage is not injured by +moderate frost. Cabbage and parsnips will stand freezing and a +little thawing, so they can be put in pits or better still, boxes +or barrels set into the ground may be used. Make the pit mound +shaped. If the earth is mounded around the box, barrel or pit, +surface water cannot run in.</p> +<p>If using this kind of storage do not store the products until +both the ground and the products are frozen solid. The idea is to +keep the vegetables frozen or to have very few freezings and +thawings, and those few should be gradual.</p> +<p>After the pit has been made or the box or barrel has been set +into the ground and filled with vegetables, it should be covered +first with a piece of burlap or carpet, then with a mouse-proof +board cover and finally with straw or similar material. When taken +from the pit, the vegetables can be thawed out over night in cold +water, after which they can be kept in the cellar for a short +length of time.</p> +<p>The pits for keeping vegetables free from frost must be +carefully and thoughtfully made, but they are cheap and are very +useful and practical when caves or cellars are not convenient.</p> +<p>The frost-proof pit for storing vegetables should always be +placed in as well-drained a place as possible. A shallow excavation +should be made from one to two feet deep, four feet wide and as +long as desired. Line the pit with straw, hay or leaves, then place +the vegetables in a conical pile on the straw. Cover the vegetables +with six inches of the material used in making the lining. This is +covered with three or four inches of earth. The straw is allowed to +extend up through the earth at the top of the pile, thus assuring +ventilation.</p> +<p>When it becomes colder add more covering to the pit by another +layer of straw and a layer of earth. In very cold climates a layer +of manure or corn stalks will afford protection against frost.</p> +<p>It is well to make several small pits rather than one larger one +for the reason that when a pit has once been opened it is difficult +to protect the remaining vegetables from frost.</p> +<p>It is advisable to store several varieties of vegetables in one +pit so that when each pit is opened you have a variety of +vegetables. If you follow this plan separate the various crops by +using straw or leaves.</p> +<p>Pits are entered by chopping a hole through the frozen earth at +one end, large enough to reach into or crawl into. After the +vegetables have been obtained keep the hole stuffed and covered +most carefully and deeply with old sacks and straw.</p> +<p>If the smaller pits are used, a decidedly better arrangement, +take out all the vegetables in the pit and those that are not +needed for immediate consumption can be placed in the cellar +storage room, or other cool place, until needed. Do not use those +pits if you live where winter rains are abundant as the pits will +become water soaked and the vegetables will suffer more or less +decay.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OUTDOOR CELLAR STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Outdoor cellars or caves may be cheaply built for more or less +temporary use or they may be very expensively built of concrete, +brick, or clay blocks. Of course, the latter are permanent storing +places and offer perfect storage for potatoes, carrots, cabbages, +parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify.</p> +<p>The objectionable features of indoor cellar storage is that such +storage does not furnish ideal conditions for keeping the +vegetables fresh for any great length of time.</p> +<p>The objectionable feature to the pit storage is the +inaccessibility to these pits during severe weather.</p> +<p>The outdoor cellar or cave overcomes both these objections. The +outdoor cellar or cave is an underground structure, preferably +built in a hillside and fully covered with earth except at one end +only where the entrance is located. If there are doors at both ends +it is almost impossible to prevent freezing in very cold weather. +The cave door should fit perfectly and there should be a hatchway +or door over the steps leading down to the cave door.</p> +<p>A very satisfactory inexpensive cellar can be made by digging an +excavation about 5 ft. deep and in this erecting a frame by setting +posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform +height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place +rafters. Board up completely with the exception of the entrance. +Cover the whole with dirt or sod and in cold climates add a layer +of straw or fodder.</p> +<p>A ventilation must be provided in the roof at the back end. A +sewer tile with the bell end up makes a very good flue. A dirt +floor is satisfactory as it contains moisture. If there is any +seepage use a drain tile to carry it off.</p> +<p>The more pretentious permanent cellars are provided with air +spaces to furnish insulation; are provided with large ventilation +shafts through the roof and cold air intakes under the floor. +Thorough drainage is obtained by placing a line of tile around the +outside wall and also by having the air intake serve as a drain for +surplus water that might get into the cave. The floor is cement or +concrete. Such a cave is expensive but is a permanent structure and +a good addition to any farm or estate. If properly made it is +possible to maintain a temperature of 34 to 38 degrees without much +fluctuation during the winter months. This kind of storage is not +only adapted for vegetables but apples as well. It is better +adapted to the Northern, Eastern and Western States than to the +Southern States, where it is likely to be warm at the time the +vegetables are ready for storage. When making the cave, have it as +near as possible to the kitchen door. Sometimes caves are made so +that they can be entered from the house, cellar or porch.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ATTIC STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Some vegetables such as onions, squashes, sweet potatoes and +pumpkins can be stored in the attic in crates which allow free +circulation of air. They must be absolutely free from bruises and +must be well ripened and cured. To cure the vegetables expose them +to the air for a few days in the shade. Remove the tops of onions +before storing. The attic is much better for storing onions than +the basement. Squashes are susceptible to cold and moisture, so are +suitable for the attic.</p> +<p>Be very careful in handling the squashes to prevent breaking the +stems off. Watch pumpkins and squash carefully and at the first +sign of decay, use immediately or can.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SAND BOX STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Sand boxes in cellars, pits or caves are desirable for beets, +turnips, kohl-rabi, carrots, winter radishes and rutabagas. The +sand keeps them cold and prevents evaporation. Kohl-rabi should be +tender when stored.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PANTRY STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Where there is no attic or where it is inconveniently reached, +the products that are adapted to a very dry place can be stored on +the pantry shelves or in a dry cellar near the furnace. They are +onions, squashes, pumpkins and sweet potatoes.</p> +<p>The keeping qualities of all these vegetables, no matter what +storage is used, depends chiefly upon their condition when placed +in storage. All products to be stored must be mature, but not +overgrown. Root crops should be dry while the ground is in good +working condition. All vegetables should be allowed to become +surface dry before placing them in storage.</p> +<p>White or Irish potatoes, especially, should not be exposed to +bright sunlight any length of time. Only vegetables free from +disease or injury should be stored. Any that are damaged can be +used immediately, or can be canned or dried.</p> +<p>Further particulars for the storing of fresh vegetables are +given in the following tables.</p> +<b>TABLE FOR VEGETABLE STORAGE</b> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>VEGETABLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>HOW BEST STORED</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>PREPARATION FOR STORAGE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT FOR FAMILY OF TWO</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>REMARKS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Irish Potatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept cool with a slight +degrees of moisture. Use either cellar or cave methods. No potato +should be more than four ft. from air if stored in barrels, boxes, +crates or bins.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Potatoes must be dug before the +ground is crusted with frost. Frosted potatoes will spoil, one +after another. Impossible to sort out frosted potatoes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10 to 15 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Remember Irish potatoes are ruined +by freezing. Potatoes should be kept absolutely dark to prevent +greening by light. Never buy potatoes in sacks that show wet places +due to a frosted potato.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Sweet Potatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Require warmth and dryness. In +crates or on shelves in warm dry room. Can be spread on the floor +in the room above the kitchen where they will have plenty of heat, +especially for the first 2 or 3 weeks after they are dug.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>When the sweet potatoes are dug they +should be allowed to lie in the sun and wind for 3 or 4 hours so as +to become perfectly dry. They must be well ripened and free from +bruises. Can be kept on shelves in a very dry place and they need +not be kept specially cold. Sweet potatoes keep best when they are +showing just a little inclination to sprout. However, if they start +growing the quality is greatly injured.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If you are in doubt as to whether +the sweet potatoes are matured enough for storage, cut or break one +end and expose it to the air for a few minutes. If the surface of +the cut or break dries, the potato is mature. But if moisture +remains on the surface, it is not fully ripened. In places where +there are early frosts, sweet potatoes should be dug about the time +the first frost is expected, without considering maturity.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Carrots</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Are best stored in sand in cellars, +caves or pits; or in tightly covered boxes or crocks. Must be kept +cold and evaporation must be prevented, for otherwise they become +wilted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until the +weather is quite cool; then be pulled, the tops cut off and then +stored.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If you store carrots in the cellar +and it is extremely dry cover them with a little moistened +sand.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Celery</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be rooted in earth in a cellar +or cave and if watered occasionally will keep fresh until +Christmas. The soil, earth or sand, in which the celery is set +should be 2 or 3 inches deep. This soil must not be allowed to +become dry.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until the +weather is quite cool.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 dozen good plants or bunches.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Another way to store celery is to +bank it to the top with earth; cover the tops with boards, straw, +or leaves and allow it to remain where it has grown until wanted +for use. Another way is to dig a trench 12 inches wide and deep +enough to correspond with the height of the celery, then lift the +celery and pack it in this trench with some soil about the roots. +When the weather becomes colder, cover the trench with boards +nailed together in the form of a V shaped trough and over this +inverted trough put a layer of soil. The ends of this trough should +be left open for ventilation until freezing sets in, then close +these openings with straw, old bags or soil. If the freeze ceases +and there is a spell of warmer weather open the ends slightly for +ventilation. When the celery is first stored in the trenches the +soil about the roots of the celery should be watered and and if the +weather is dry after the celery is put in the trenches, pour some +water around the roots to keep the celery crisp and fresh.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Cabbage</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can be wrapped in paper with the +outer leaves left on for immediate use and stored in ventilated +barrels or large crates in the cellar. But as few cellars are cool +enough to keep cabbage in good condition it is more advisable to +store it in a long shallow pit in the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Is not injured by moderate frost +while in the pit but should not be disturbed while frozen. The pit +should be long and narrow. Pull the cabbage, stem, root and all, +and then laid with heads down about 3 heads in width can be placed +in the pit. Cover lightly with soil and as the weather becomes +colder add a little more soil until there is a layer 6 or 7 inches +thick over the cabbage. Keep the ends of the pit partially open for +ventilation until the weather becomes very cold.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>25 heads.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Late varieties of cabbage are the +only ones fit for storage. It is advisable to dig a shallow ditch +around the pit so that all surplus water can be carried off.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Chickory or Endive</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Store in a box or bed of moist sand +in the cellar. Put roots in an upright position with the sand +coming just to their tops. Water the sand occasionally. Sometimes a +covering of straw is added to blanch the tender growth of shoots, +which is the part used as food.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Late in the fall lift the roots out +and carefully trim off the leaves without injury to the heart.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 doz. roots.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Chickory or endive is grown the same +as carrots or salsify. It is useful in the winter for it furnishes +the needed green that is so scarce in winter.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Beets</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be placed in too large +piles in the cellar as they are inclined to mold. Can also be +buried in pits in open ground.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until very +cool weather; then should be pulled, the tops cut off and then +stored in the cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 bushel.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Beets are not so much inclined to +shrivel as carrots.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Salsify or Vegetable Oyster</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pack roots in box with moist sand in +cellar or as they are not injured by remaining in the ground all +winter they can be left there. Enough for immediate use may be dug +in the autumn and the others dug as desired.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>When stored in the cellar after the +salsify is pulled, trim off the tops and then stand them in an +upright position with the sand even with the tops.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 to 100 roots.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Is injured by too much freezing and +thawing, so should remain frozen.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Parsnips</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can be stored just as salsify or be +allowed to remain in the ground until wanted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Those that are to be stored in the +cellar can remain in in the garden until the weather is quite cool, +then prepare and store like salsify.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 bushel in the cellar and one in +the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Parsnips are best kept frozen or +fresh in the cellar as too much freezing and thawing destroys +them.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Turnips</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be stored where temperature is +low or sprouting will result. Moderate freezing does no harm while +in the storage pit but they must not be disturbed while +frozen.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pull; cut tops off and store in sand +in cellars or caves, or in pits, or in tightly covered boxes or +crocks.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>The object is to keep them cold and +prevent evaporation. It is a good plan to store a portion in the +cellar so as to be available during the time that those buried in +the pit are "frozen in" and not so easily accessible.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Onions</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Require a cool dry place. Attic +excellent.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Before storing, cure them by +exposing to the air for a few days in the shade. Dryness is +absolutely essential. A well cured onion should be firm and not +readily dented at the base of the tops by the tip of the thumb when +held in the hand.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 bushels.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Onions are best for storage if +topped about 1½ inches long.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Cauliflower</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Planted in shallow boxes of soil in +light place in the cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be too mature.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Store as many as possible.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If kept well watered they will +mature for winter use.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Brussels Sprouts</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Planted in soil in cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be too mature.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>According to family tastes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Keep watered and will mature.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Ground Cherries or Husk Tomatoes +Kohl-rabi, Winter Radishes, Rutabagas</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be stored for some weeks in the +husk in their layers in a dry place free from frost. Best stored in +sand in cellars, cares or pits.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept cold to prevent +evaporation.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>According to the family tastes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Kohl-rabi must be tender when +stored.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Horse-radish Pumpkins</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be kept in the ground where +grown all winter. Must be kept frozen as thawing injures it. Best +kept on shelves in a very dry place. Can be kept on shelves in +furnace room.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be ripened and cured and free +from bruises.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 ordinary sized pumpkins.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Need not be kept especially +cold.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Squashes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Susceptible to cold and moisture, so +store in a dry place where temperature will be between 50 and 60 +degrees.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Care must be taken that stem is not +broken.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10 ordinary sized hubbard +squashes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Whenever squashes or pumpkins in +storage show signs of decay, the sound portion should be +immediately canned.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cool cellar or cave; can be wrapped +in any absorbent paper preferably without printing upon it, and +laid upon shelves to ripen. The paper absorbs the moisture given +off by the tomatoes and causes them to ripen uniformly. If cellar +is dry or well ventilated, tomatoes can be kept a month or six +weeks in this manner.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be kept until Christmas if vines +with the green tomatoes hanging on them are pulled and hung in the +cellar. Pull the vines before they are frosted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All that you can put away.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Most of the tomatoes that are put +into storage will ripen and be most acceptable as soon as they +color up. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are found to be very +acid, the acidity may be overcome by using baking soda.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Parsley</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Transplant into flower pots late in +the fall.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Keep in windows where they will +receive plenty of sunshine.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Garlic</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Should be thoroughly cured as are +onions.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Or it may be braided by the tops +into strings which are hung up in dry places for curing and +storing.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Head Lettuce</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Rooted in earth in a cellar or +cave.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Water occasionally.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All you have in the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Dry beans and peas</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Stored where protected from +weevils.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Should be fully ripened before +shelling. Pick pods by hand as they ripen and spread pods to become +thoroughly dry. May be shelled by spreading pods on a sheet and +beating them with a stick. Can be cleaned by pouring them from a +height of 4 or 5 ft. upon a sheet and allowing the wind to blow the +particles of pod out of them as they fall.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>As many as you can gather.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept in a dry, cool place +and so stored as to be in no danger of absorbing odors from +vegetables stored nearby. Apples absorb odors from potatoes, +onions, turnips and other strong vegetables.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Sort apples carefully removing and +using at once all fruit that is bruised and shows signs of decay. +The best results are obtained by wrapping each apple in half a +sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates or bins. +The wrapping prevents apples from touching and thus prevents decay. +It also protects apples from odors of vegetables stored +nearby.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>As many barrels of apples as +possible. Remember that "An apple a day will keep the doctor +away."</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>The cellar or other storage place +must be kept cool. 32° F. is ideal. Never allow temperature to +go above 40° F. They can be stored unwrapped in barrels, boxes, +crates, bins, etc., if proper attention is paid to sorting, to +providing a cool place for storage, to occasional sorting during +the winter and for the immediate removal of all decayed fruit. Even +if you do not raise apples, but have a good storage place, meeting +the requirements as regards temperature, you will find it +advantageous to buy a winter's supply in the autumn, when prices +are low.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIX' id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XIX</h2> +<h3>HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE</h3> +<br> +<p>You have some delicious jellies, jams, canned fruits and +vegetables that you wish to sell and you do not know just how to go +about it. There are at your disposal several means of selling:</p> +<p>1. Through advertising.</p> +<p>2. Through personal letters to desirable shops, delicatessens, +boarding-houses, colleges, etc.</p> +<p>3. By direct salesmanship; that is, by making personal visits to +the buyers, either homes or stores.</p> +<p>4. Through jobbers to whom you pay a commission on all +sales.</p> +<p>5. Through coöperative selling.</p> +<p>Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way for you to handle your +problem is to employ the method so much used to-day and that is +wayside advertising. Wayside advertising costs practically nothing +and yet it pays.</p> +<p>Autos are everywhere these days. You cannot take a country ride +without seeing many signboards at the farm entrances advertising +chickens, fresh eggs, vegetables, honey, apples and canned goods. I +have a friend who drives 50 miles every fall for her honey. She +first found it by seeing the sign in front of the farm and now she +returns year after year because she thinks no other honey is just +like it. She would never have discovered it if that farm woman had +not been clever enough to think of advertising her goods in this +cheap way. My friend told all her other "auto" friends, so the +country woman has a splendid outlet for her product now. If you +live on a good road that is patronized at all by autoists you ought +to get your signboard up at once.</p> +<p>We often pass a farm where the sign "Fresh Home-Made Candy" +always tempts us to stop and buy. What autoist could resist that +sign? And here miles from town this clever woman is carrying on a +profitable side trade, which is netting her a nice little yearly +income. Her candy is good; we go often and so do many others. She +has turned her profession into a paying proposition. She could send +her candy away by parcel post or by some other means, but she would +not be so far ahead as she is now.</p> +<p>In addition to your wayside advertising you could advertise in +papers, magazines, etc. Many producers believe strongly in +advertising in daily and weekly papers. You can quickly find out +whether this kind of advertising pays. Give it a trial at least. +After you have spent ten or fifteen dollars in advertising you +ought to know whether it pays.</p> +<p>Use one or two of the city papers near you, taking the +publisher's advice as to the best day of the week on which to run +the advertisement, the size and the position of the "ad." The first +cost of getting your customers may seem high, but with good +products you could soon build up a list of people to whom sales can +be made year after year.</p> +<p>This form of advertising has many advantages. If your +advertising copy is clever and you have some novelty to offer, you +ought to receive many orders. If orders come, you get the full +retail price, the shipping charges are paid by the customer, and +cash comes with every order. And it means, if your customers are +pleased, that you have permanent customers. The initial cost is +great and there is a risk, but remember "it pays to advertise."</p> +<p>There are millions of city women who never can a jar of fruit or +put up a single glass of preserves or jelly who will be glad to +have you send your goods direct to them by parcel post. But you +must get in touch with these women either through wayside +advertising, magazine and paper advertising or by direct +salesmanship, although very few women have the time for personal +calls.</p> +<p>Considerable business can be done by letter writing to stores, +restaurants and boarding-houses in distant cities. It may be +impossible for you to go personally, in which case letters often +bring the desired results. Make your letters business-like and +typewrite them. Do not be discouraged if you do not get many +replies at first as there are at least fifty per cent who pay no +attention to such letters. But this form of advertising usually +pays.</p> +<p>Another method followed by many home canners is that of +marketing direct to the retail grocers, care being taken, of +course, to protect these grocers by not selling to more than one +member in a community. One of the great advantages, of this direct +salesmanship is that little selling effort is required on your part +after the first arrangements have been made. The nearby market plan +is greatly to be recommended because you can keep in touch with +your selling concern, build up a line of desirable goods and +promote its sale by advertising.</p> +<p>Of course you can get more money for your goods if you have time +and the opportunity to sell <i>direct to</i> the consumers. You +will of necessity have to sell cheaper to the grocers because they +too must make their profit. Marketing direct to the consumer has a +special appeal to many people. Where time is available and the +community accustomed to purchasing in this manner, this method +offers great possibilities. The profits are of course higher but +the results more uncertain, for it is somewhat difficult to gauge +the demands of the public, and the canner must assume the risk +ordinarily taken by the merchant.</p> +<p>It takes time and patience to develop a list of customers but if +you have time in the winter to do this you will find it will pay +you well. If you can get customers who are willing to pay good +prices for quality, scrupulous cleanliness and the homemade flavor, +you will get a larger gross return than if you sold through +merchants, but if your time is valuable it would scarcely pay you +to take individual orders and deliver goods.</p> +<p>There is still another way and that is to market your +home-canned products in large lots to jobbers, but if this plan is +to be pursued successfully there must be a reasonably large pack +and wholesale rates. This method produces more uniform profits year +by year, for after a reputation is established the home-canner +would not experience great difficulty in thus disposing of her +entire output by contract, providing the quality was high and the +price demands not excessive.</p> +<p>But the greatest and best way of all to find a profitable market +for your things is to coöperate with other canners in your own +neighborhood and find a market for quantity as well as quality. +Delicatessens, club houses, tea shops, college dormitories, +restaurants and hotels, all pay good prices for fine quality. No +big buyer will bother to purchase one or two dozen of this or that. +He wants dozens of things. One of the very best profitable ways to +sell with little trouble is through quantities. Get all the women +in your community to bring together cans of fruit and preserves, +etc., to some marketing place. Find out how many jars of currant +jelly you have, how many cans of peas and corn, how many of +cherries, etc., and then notify your buyer or prospective +buyer.</p> +<p>Coöperative selling has been undertaken and found +profitable. In some cases, especially in localities frequented by +the summer boarder or the automobile tourist, sales are made direct +to customers who come to the salesrooms of the organizations or to +their special sales; in other cases goods are sent by parcel post +and other means. The women in the community can hire or beg a room +where all the women of the community can sell their products for +individual profit. This room should be located on the direct +automobile road in order to attract tourists and automobile +parties. An annual membership fee of from 50 cents to $1 generally +is required for these organizations, and a charge of from 10 to 15 +per cent of the selling price usually is made to cover the cost of +selling. In a few instances the managing board has been able to +secure an efficient person to take charge of the enterprise for a +specified percentage on the sales.</p> +<p>Wholesale grocery concerns are interested in big +things—orders can be placed with them. Soda fountains in +towns and cities are excellent customers for the freshest eggs they +can get. They are encroaching more and more on the trade of the +restaurants and lunch rooms. Many serve light luncheons and would +be interested in good butter, preserves and jams. When you get a +list of names and addresses write to several dozen places, tell +what your organization has in the way of guaranteed eggs, homemade +products and what kind of service you could offer in the way of +regular shipments. When orders come it is an easy matter to look up +at your local bank the responsibility of any customer, so there is +little risk. Or cash can be insisted upon with every order, +although large concerns prefer to pay after receipt of goods and +bill.</p> +<p>Each woman in this coöperative organization must keep her +goods up to a certain standard, for an inferior lot of goods sent +to a large firm might ruin a reputation.</p> +<p>Three things govern the sale of canned +products—appearances, quality and price. So many things enter +into consideration of prices obtainable that it is difficult to set +a standard which will be applicable to different sections. The +quality of the pack, its neatness, the method of marketing and many +other matters must be considered in deciding this all-important +point. As a general proposition, however, if the products are +uniformly high grade, prices may be obtained which are somewhat in +excess of factory-made products marketed in the same manner.</p> +<p>Like any other new industry, the selling should be developed +slowly in order to minimize the possibility of loss and to assure +stable business. One should study the situation carefully both from +the manufacturing and marketing standpoints. Plan the season's +campaign before taking up the work, and do not let the enthusiasm +of the beginner interfere with good business judgment.</p> +<p>The selling when rightly managed can be made a successful +business or it can be turned into a liability through careless, +unbusinesslike methods and insufficient or unwise planning. +Properly handled it will pay well for the investment of time and +money, and offer opportunity for the disposal of surplus +home-canned, home-grown, homemade and home-prepared products of all +kinds.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIVING UP TO CONTRACTS</b></p> +<p>Care must be taken not to contract for more than can be +delivered. This would be bad business, and business principles must +govern in selling home products just as in other enterprises if one +is to be increasingly successful from year to year.</p> +<p>Occasionally a quantity of fruit which will not meet the rigid +requirements of the canning business can be turned into preserves, +jellies or fruit juices. Preserves and jellies should be marketed +in glass, and fruit juices in bottles, although some manufacturers +are now marketing some of these products in fiber cups. This line +of products will require some additional equipment, but there is a +steady demand for such homemade things and many women are deriving +profits through the sale of their tastily prepared jellies, just as +pickles and condiments have lined the pocketbooks of ambitious +housewives before now.</p> +<p>Home canning for the market is essentially a matter of +specializing and of giving the consumer a better product than he is +accustomed to purchase. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the +maintenance of a high standard for home-canned goods. Care should +be taken that every jar measures up to a rigid standard, for a +single one which falls below grade will neutralize the reputation +and standing obtained by the sale of a dozen jars of perfect +product. A quality is necessary which will warrant a money-back +guarantee on every jar.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE USE OF LABELS IN CANNING</b></p> +<p>Labels for both tin cans and glass jars should tell the truth as +to the quality, weight and kind of product within the pack. Before +adopting a trade-mark and label, consult the Bureau of Chemistry, +U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., as to label +requirements for canned goods prepared for the market.</p> +<p>It pays to show samples of all your canned goods at county and +state fairs. You may win many premiums. Goods which are canned with +preservatives should be debarred from all exhibits.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING GLASS FOR SHIPPING</b></p> +<p>Wrap each glass or jar separately in rumpled newspapers or +excelsior and pack in barrels or boxes. Line these containers with +papers or excelsior.</p> +<p>Strong corrugated parcel post boxes can be obtained for this +purpose. Wrap each jar with excelsior or paper before putting it in +its proper section. If sending large amounts send all boxes or all +barrels, do not mix them,—sending half barrels and half +boxes—as large concerns like uniform packages.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING TIN FOR SHIPPING</b></p> +<p>Two dozen cans is the regulation shipping case. Have the +shipping boxes of uniform size. Put the two dozen cans in the box +and nail on the top. Be exceedingly careful not to drive nails into +the cans. On both ends of the box paste labels such as are on the +cans, telling what the contents of the box are.</p> +<p>Address the box carefully using marking ink or a regulation tag. +If a tag, tack with small tacks on the top of the box. Write your +own name and address on the tag <i>distinctly</i> as the sender. Be +as careful of the tacks as you were of the nails. Always get a +receipt from your express agent if shipping by express as this will +be necessary in case of non-receipt of goods.</p> +<p>Send to the concern or individual to whom you are sending the +goods a list of the things you have sent. This is called an +invoice. Keep a copy of the invoice for yourself so if any question +arises you will know what you are talking about.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHIPPING TERMS</b></p> +<p>C.O.D. means collect on delivery. The purchaser pays the price +of the products to the transportation company before they are +delivered.</p> +<p>F.O.B. means free on board. For instance: if you send a shipment +of canned goods to Chicago at $6.00 per case f.o.b. Charles City it +means that you deliver the canned goods to the freight depot at +Charles City and the purchaser pays both the price per case and the +freight. If you deliver them f.o.b. Chicago it means you deliver +them to the freight depot at Charles City and also pay the freight +to Chicago.</p> +<p>Bill of Lading with Sight Draft Attached is a call for the money +before the purchaser can take the products from the freight +office.</p> +<p>Drop Shipment. If a wholesale firm requests that you ship direct +to another firm buying from him, thus avoiding two shipments, this +is called a drop shipment.</p> +<p>Lot Shipment. If you ship two or more barrels or cases as a "lot +shipment" to the same destination they may be sent at a cheaper +rate than if each were shipped separately.</p> +<h3>LIST OF FIRMS FURNISHING SUPPLIES FOR CANNING, DRYING, +PRESERVING, ETC</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HOME AND CLUB COÖPERATIVE +CANNING OUTFITS AND DEVICES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Butler Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Kansas City, Mo., and Minneapolis, Minn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water and steam<br> +and pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Carolina Metal Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wilmington, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Farm Canning Machine Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Meridian, Miss.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Favorite Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Tamps, Florida</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Florida Metal Products</td> +<td align='left'>Jacksonville, Fla.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Griffith & Turner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>205-207 N. Pace St., Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Halftime Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>7556 Oglesby Avenue, Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hall Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Grand Rapids, Mich.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water bath canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co</td> +<td align='left'>80-82 N. 5th Street, Portland, Ore.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Home Canner Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Hickory, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>E.F. Kirwan & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Modern Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Monarch Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Northwestern Steel & Iron Wks.</td> +<td align='left'>Eau Claire, Wis. canners.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pressure Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Denver, Colo.</td> +<td align='left'>Aluminum steam pressure<br> +cookers and canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>T.H. Raney</td> +<td align='left'>Chapel Hill, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>A.K. Robins & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Royal Supply Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio</td> +<td align='left'>Steam process canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Canner and Evaporator Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sprague Canning Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>222 No. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl</td> +<td align='left'>212 N. 4th Street, Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard Water-Seal Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 N. 2nd Street, Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Utility Company</td> +<td align='left'>Hickory, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Willson Canner Company</td> +<td align='left'>Louisville, Ky.,<br> +and No. 8 G St., N.W. Washington, D.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal and<br> +and pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HOME EVAPORATORS, DRYERS, AND +EQUIPMENT FOR DRYING</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Paring Machine Co</td> +<td align='left'>1231 Callowhill St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Peeler</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Harry Bentz Engineering Co.</td> +<td align='left'>90 West St., New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>G.S. Blakekslee & Company,</td> +<td align='left'>2806 Quinn St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Enterprise Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>3rd and Dauphin Sts., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Slicer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Edw. B. Fahrney,</td> +<td align='left'>Waynesboro, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gordon Engineering Corporaton</td> +<td align='left'>39 Cortlandt St., New York City</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Grange Sales Association,</td> +<td align='left'>Lafayette Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hunter Dry Kiln Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Machine Company,</td> +<td align='left'>108 West 34th St., N.Y. City</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lake Breeze Motor Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>564 W. Monroe St., Chicago</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia Drying Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Stekley St., above Westmoreland, Philadelphia, +Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia Textile Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sixth St. and Tabor Road, Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>John E. Smith's Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Buffalo, N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Evaporator Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl,</td> +<td align='left'>212 N. 4th St., Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>N.R. Streeter Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>N.R. Streeter & Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>B.F. Sturtevant Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Hyde Park Dist., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Peeler</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Stutzman Mfg. Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Ligonier, Ind.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.G.W. Young Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>61 Hanover St., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>MECHANICAL SEALS AND SEALERS FOR +TIN AND GLASS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Metal Cap Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Summit St. and Commercial Wharf, Brooklyn, +N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Metal bottle caps.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Pure Food Process Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Greenmount Avenue and Preston St., Baltimore, +Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Mechanical sealer for glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Bowers Can Seal Company,</td> +<td align='left'>146 Summer St., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Automatic can sealers for tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Burpe Can Sealer Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>215 W. Huron St., Chicago.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin can sealer and opener.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Columbia Specialty Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Metal bottle caps.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Crown Cork and Seal Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Chicago, San Francisco, and other +cities</td> +<td align='left'>Sanitary metal bottle caps and sealers.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Enterprise Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Bottle cappers from 3 in. to 14 in.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Frazer & Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>50 Church Street, New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Mechanical hand sealer for sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>47 1st Street, Portland, Ore.</td> +<td align='left'>Automatic can sealers for tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>States Metals Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>30 Church Street, New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Hand sealers for sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>STEAMERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Aluminum Cooking Utensil Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New Kensington, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Toledo Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Toledo, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wilmot, Castle & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HEATING DEVICES, LIFTING CRATES, +AND OTHER LABOR-SAVING DEVICES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>L.B. Allen Co. Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>4517 No. Lincoln St.,</td> +<td align='left'>Commercial flux.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Biddle-Gaumer Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Patent canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Fagley & Halpen</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Handy Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Maritime Bldg., Seattle Wash., and<br> +No. 208 Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Individual jar holders.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kerr Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sand Springs, Okla.</td> +<td align='left'>Duplex fork.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Manning, Bowman & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Meriden, Conn.</td> +<td align='left'>Alcholite stoves.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Parker Wire Goods Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Worcester, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Lifting tray for jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pearce Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Albion, Mich.</td> +<td align='left'>Racks and lifters.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.H. Schaefer Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Toledo, Ohio.</td> +<td align='left'>Fruit jar wrench.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>LABELS, STICKERS, SHIELDS AND +BADGES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Camden Curtain and Embroidery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Camden, New Jersey.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>R.P. Clarke & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Dennison Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Printing and Lithograph Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>TIN CANS AND GLASS JARS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New York City.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ball Bros. Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Muncie, Ind.</td> +<td align='left'>Screw top and glass-top jars</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ben Schloss</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buck Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Chesapeake Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Frazer & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>50 Church St., N.Y.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hazel-Atlas Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W. Va.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass-top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Johnson-Morse Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W. Va.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kerr Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sand Springs, Okla.</td> +<td align='left'>Suction seal and Mason jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>E.F. Kirwan Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>A.K. Robins & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans and general equipment.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Schramm Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>St. Louis, Mo.</td> +<td align='left'>Suction seal and screw top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Smalley Fruit Jar Co.</td> +<td align='left'>26 Dock Sq., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass-top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl</td> +<td align='left'>Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Staunton Jar Corporation<i>N.Y.</i></td> +<td align='left'>Ellicott Sq, Buffalo,</td> +<td align='left'>Vacuum seal jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Virginia Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Buchanan, Va.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wheeling Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>RUBBER RINGS FOR COLD-PACK +CANNING</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Acme Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Trenton, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Boston Woven Hose & Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cleveland, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>GLASS BOTTLES AND OTHER +CONTAINERS FOR FRUIT JUICES, CATSUP, ETC.</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Adams Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Atlantic Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>90 West Broadway, N.Y. City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berney-Bond Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bradford, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cape May Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cape May Court House, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cumberland Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bridgeton, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Federal Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Columbus, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.L. Flaccus Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Pittsburgh, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Glenshaw Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Glenshaw, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.C. Goss Glass Co., Mfg. Agts.</td> +<td align='left'>172 Fulton St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hocking Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Lancaster, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Charleroi, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Indiana Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Dunkirk, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>D.C. Jenkins Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Kokomo, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>North Wheeling Glass Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ripley & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Connellsville, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Schramm Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sheffield Glass Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sheffield, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Sterling Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Lapel, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Turner Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Salem, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Upland Flint Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Upland, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Western Bottle Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>West end Randolph St. Bridge, Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Whitall-Tatum Co.</td> +<td align='left'>410-416 Race St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wightman Bottle & Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Parkers Landing, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Williamstown Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Williamstown, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Woodbury Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Winchester, Ind.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>GLASS BOTTLES SEALED WITH CORKS +AND METAL CAPS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Acme Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Olean, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Binghamton Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Binghamton, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.L. Flaccus Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Pittsburgh, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hazel-Atlas Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Charleroi, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Jeanette Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Jeanette, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>North Baltimore Bottle Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Turner Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Whitney Glass Works</td> +<td align='left'>Glassboro, N.J.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>EARTHENWARE AND STONEWARE +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buckel Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Hall, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buckeye Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Macomb, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Burley and Winter Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Crooksville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hawthorn Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Hawthorn, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Logan Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Logan, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Louisville Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Louisville, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Muskingum Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Cottage, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Nashville Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Nelson McCly Sanitary Hardware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roseville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Paducah Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Paducah, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pfaltzaraff Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>York, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ransbottom Bros., Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roseville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Red Wing Union Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Red Wing, Minn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Star Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Crooksville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Uhl Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Evansville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Western Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Monmouth, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>White Hall Sewer Pipe & Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Hall, Ill.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>FIBRE AND PAPER CANS AND +BOTTLES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>447 W. 14th, New York City, and Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The American Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Canister Company of New Jersey</td> +<td align='left'>Phillipsburg, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Paper Bag Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 Battery Place, New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cordley & Hayes</td> +<td align='left'>7-9 Leonard St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Empire Paper Tube and Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>155 Bank St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Hygeia Paper Container Co.</td> +<td align='left'>2106 Auburn Ave., Toledo, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Moisture Proof Fibre Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Detroit, Mich.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Mono-Service Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Samuel W. Moore & Sons</td> +<td align='left'>95 Liberty St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>576 Clinton St., Milwaukee, Wis.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pure Food Package Co.</td> +<td align='left'>200 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Purity Paper Bottle Co., Inc.</td> +<td align='left'>1341 S. Capitol St., Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.C. Ritchie & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>400 S. Green St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sanitary Paper Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Single Service Package Corp. of America</td> +<td align='left'>326 Hudson St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>St. Louis Paper Can & Tube Co.</td> +<td align='left'>4400 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Standard Package Co.</td> +<td align='left'>50 State St., Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Washington Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>425 12th St., N.W., Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Weis Fibre Container Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>Monroe, Mich.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>FOIL-LINED PAPER BAGS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thomas M. Royal & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bryn Mawr, Pa.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>DELIVERY CONTAINERS FOR EGGS, +VEGETABLES, DRIED FOOD PRODUCTS, ETC.</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Bloomer Bros. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Doane Carton Co.</td> +<td align='left'>920 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Mono-Service Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thomas M. Royal & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bryn Mawr, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.A. Schurmann & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>365 E. Ill. St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Corrugated Fibre Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roosevelt Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Weis Fibre Container Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>Monroe, Mich.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>PARCEL POST EGG +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>O.B. Andrews Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.K. Brunner</td> +<td align='left'>45 Harrison St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1122-28 S. 12th St., St Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Paper Bag Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 Battery Place, New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cummer Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cadillac, Mich.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Day Collapsible Box Co., Inc.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington Grove, Md.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Empire Printing & Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Atlanta, Ga.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.B. Foster & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>2447 Locust St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Robert Gair Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ohio No-Break Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>702 Mercantile Library Bldg., Cincinnati, +Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Self-Locking Carton Co.</td> +<td align='left'>437 E. Illinois St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Concord & Prince Sts., Brooklyn,N.Y.<br> +Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Safety Egg Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wallace Egg Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>451 3rd St., San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>MISCELLANEOUS CORRUGATED BOARD +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New York City and Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1122-28 S. 12th St., St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Empire Printing & Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Atlanta, Ga.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Federal Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Columbus, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Robert Gair Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Concord and Prince Sts., Brooklyn,N.Y.<br> +Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Corrugated Fibre Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1315 Martindale Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>THERMOMETERS FOR OVEN, CANDY AND +SUGAR</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Taylor Instrument Companies</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br /> +<br /> +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 13775 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..eeb8646 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #13775 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/13775) diff --git a/old/13775-8.txt b/old/13775-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2648d37 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13775-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9103 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Every Step in Canning, by Grace Viall Gray + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Every Step in Canning + +Author: Grace Viall Gray + +Release Date: October 17, 2004 [eBook #13775] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERY STEP IN CANNING*** + + +E-text prepared by John Hagerson, Kevin Handy, Stephen Schulze, and the +Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + +The Cold-Pack Method + +by + +GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B + +Formerly Associate Professor of Home Economics, +Iowa State College + +1920 + + + + + + + +PREFACE + + +It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, Cold-Pack +Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand one day at a +federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a few weeks there +would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty miles away. Immediately +I announced that I was going to the demonstrations. So leaving my +small daughter with my mother, I went to the Normal School at DeKalb, +Illinois, and heard and saw for the first time cold-pack canning. + +It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded full of +interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I felt amply +repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, the first +story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in _The Country +Gentleman_ and I had the pleasure of writing it. So enthused was I +over this new, efficient and easy way to can not only fruits but hard +vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that I wanted to carry the +good news into the kitchen of other busy housewives and mothers. + +My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, just +from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, much +against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement work, my +sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that for the first +time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over one phase of +cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that when she received +my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, "Mother, I am +enthused about this canning and want to can everything in sight this +summer," she hastily washed all available glass jars and tops and had +everything in readiness for young daughter's return. And we canned. We +were not content to can alone but invited all the neighbors in and +taught them how to can. Our community canned more things and more +unusual things, including the hard vegetables, that year than they had +ever attempted before. + +Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there were +doubting Thomases, but it only took time and _results_ to convert even +the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a confession. It was +much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase of canning, to master +this new method than it was for me with my four years' training course +and my five years of teaching canning behind me. And this is the +reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," she knew no other method whereas +I had to "unlearn" all my previous methods. + +The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from the old +hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you must forget +all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And right here is +where many women "fall down"--they are not willing to admit that they +know nothing about it and so do not get accurate information about it. +They are so afraid of appearing ignorant. This false feeling is the +greatest obstacle in woman's way. + +I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will say, +"Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it for thirty +years." And when I show my surprise, they further enlighten me with, +"and my mother used it before me, too." With a little tactful +questioning I usually get these answers: "Of course, I do not hot dip +and cold dip. I never heard of that before. I pack the products into +the cold jars and for all vegetables I use a preserving powder because +there is no way on earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless +you put something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right. +Then I cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I +ask, "How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the +answer, "Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems +like such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned, +out-of-date methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and +much actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for +there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old rather +than try the new. + +The present book is therefore designed for all interested in greater +efficiency in the home, including not only students of home economics +but all persons who have charge of homes and are interested in +learning new, efficient, time and labor saving methods. + +In the preparation of this book I have received much help from Mr. +O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' and +Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. I also +wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped to make +this book possible by contributing information, advice and +encouragement. + +GRACE VIALL GRAY. + +October, 1919. + + + + + CONTENTS + + I. GETTING READY TO CAN + + II. SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + III. HARD FRUITS + + IV. VEGETABLES + + V. SOUPS + + VI. JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + VII. MEAT + + VIII. FISH + + IX. EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + X. INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + XI. WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + XI. I GETTING READY TO DRY + + XIII. HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + XIV. HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + XV. EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + XVI. CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + XVII. PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + XVIII. HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + XIX. HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + + + + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +GETTING READY TO CAN + + +Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of canning, +preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California fruits by the +case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen cans, according +to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was cheaper and +decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, greens, soups +and meats than to take time and strength in the very hottest season of +the year to do our own canning. + +But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us thrift. The +crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has sunk into our +minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods have been adopted by +the modern woman. Women who had never canned in days before the war +had to can during war days. Food was so scarce and so high in price +that to buy fancy or even plain canned products was a severe strain on +the average housewife's purse. The American woman, as was to be +expected, came quickly and eagerly to the front with the solution and +the slogan: "More gardens and more canning and preserving at home." + +A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As I have +just said, women who had never canned before became vitally interested +in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, but jars upon +jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so great was their +delight in the finished products that again and again I heard them +say: "Never again shall we depend upon the grocery to supply us with +canned goods." + +If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that their +grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just the same, +because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they would have +canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so apparent during the +summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a result of new canning +methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. The women of to-day were +forced into a new field and learned how satisfying and well worth +while the results were. It is safe to guarantee that every +home-canning recruit will become a home-canning veteran. + +The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned how +simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear that +home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the immediate +necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own because of the +war, and it has come to stay because of its many merits. + +There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all over +the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the "intermittent," the +"cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods. + + +DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS + +The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was largely +used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in the +preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized jars, after +which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar is done after +the sterilization has been completed, there is always a possibility of +bacteria and spores entering the jar with the cooked food and the air. +Fruits can be handled successfully in this way, but this method cannot +be used for vegetables, greens and meats. It is a very laborious, hot +and hard way to can. Modern housewives are discarding it more and more +every year and are beginning to place their trust in the newer and far +more scientific methods of canning. + +The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still +beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture into +the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all fruits +and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where they say +the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great objection to this +method of canning is that it requires three periods of sterilization +on three different days and three liftings of jars in and out of the +sterilizer. + +What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning should not +be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The "cold-water" is often +used in connection with the canning of rhubarb, green gooseberries and +a comparatively few other sour berry fruits. If the "cold-water" +method is used we would suggest that the product be thoroughly washed, +placed in a strainer, scalding water poured over it, and the product +then packed at once, in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and +clean, cold water applied until the jars are filled. If these steps +are taken carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be +successful with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products +will have to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not +consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method. + + +THE COLD-PACK METHOD + +The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is known as +the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight to prove +that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory process for +busy housewives to can everything that grows. + +This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, and if I +should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am referring +to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are packed cold in +their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or containers. To the +fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables hot water and a little +salt are added. The sterilization is done in the glass jars or tin +containers after they are partly or entirely sealed, making it +practically impossible for bacteria or spores to enter after the +product has once been carefully sterilized or cooked. In following +this method vegetables should first be blanched in boiling water or +live steam, then quickly plunged into cold water and the skins +removed. The products are then packed in containers and sterilized +according to the instructions and recipes given later. + +When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the product +for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled with food. +It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, processing, boiling +and cooking are all interchangeable terms and mean one and the same +thing. + +By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food +products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be successfully +sterilized in a single period with but one handling of the product in +and out of the canner. + +All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy pulp, +and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than in any +other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is eliminated and +all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause vegetables and meat to +spoil are destroyed. + + +EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL + +For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you have in +the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many of us have +purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn out more at the +end of a day and have found it well worth while to invest a few +dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more efficient. But if you +are a beginner and do not care to put any money in an unknown venture +use the available things at hand, just to prove to yourself and others +that it can be done. + +Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those which +are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and basements +and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good condition and +will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good rubber you can use +that jar. + +If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor economy to +use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably responsible for more +spoiled canned goods than any other cause. Good tops and good rubbers +are requisites for good canning. + +For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a +galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail--a new one, of +course. Either is excellent where the family is small and the canning +is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the cookstove while +others employ a large vat. If you should have to buy the wash boiler +or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover and be sure the pail +does not leak. Then all you have to do is to secure what we call a +false bottom, something that will keep the jars of fruit from touching +the direct bottom of the boiler or pail. This false bottom, remember, +is absolutely necessary, for without it the jars will break during the +boiling. + +For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and cut it +to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or bucket. +If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a wooden +bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not available +put thin pieces of wood in the bottom--anything to keep the jars from +coming in direct contact with the bottom of the sterilizer. + +If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use a +deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. This +rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars from +becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a tendency +for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be lost. Do not +use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a false bottom; they +are unsatisfactory because they do not allow proper circulation of +water. + +Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by many +women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the market +and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned fingers. +Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies with you, +individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will hold all +your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them separately. + +To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no matter what +kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper than the tallest +jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra inch or two so that +the water will not boil over. + +Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you will +need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may be put +for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water--if you haven't +running water--for the "cold dip." + +If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar +lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the canner. +If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as they contain +an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher for lifting the +jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, such as scales, +knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth or muslin for +blanching or scalding the product, and the kitchen clock play their +part in canning. + +No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product is +cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food will +be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is desired to +add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may be done when +the product is packed in the jar. + +A great many people have been led to believe through advertising +matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds for +the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep under the +commonly known methods of canning. The first argument against the use +of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It is possible to +sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on tree, vine, shrub or +in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period method of canning, +without the use of a compound. The second argument against it is that +many of the canning compounds are positively harmful to health. Some +of them contain as high as ninety-five per cent of boric acid. +Directors of county and state fairs should exclude from entry all +fruits and vegetables that have been preserved in any canning +compound. Perfect fruit can be produced without any chemical +preservative. The third argument is that they are expensive. + +There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and garbage +pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath outfits. In +these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling water. + +There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the +product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally +used for everyday cookery. + +The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the aluminum +pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards the time +required to sterilize food. + +Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and +manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the +hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or +hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing. + +The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated but +more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker because it +can be used for everyday cooking in the home. + +Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, as +they are used daily and not just during the canning season. + +Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a +hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen minutes; +in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, twelve minutes; +in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; in +an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten pounds of steam, five +minutes. + +It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath outfit; the +shortest and quickest method is with the pressure cooker that has a +pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife has different financial +problems, different hours of working and different ways of working. +Where quick work is desired and expense is no item the pressure cooker +is advisable; where money is scarce and time is no object the homemade +outfit answers. Each one must decide which outfit is best for her own +particular case. It matters not which outfit you have--they have all +been thoroughly tested and approved by experts. Each one does the +work. + +This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart +kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart +measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar opener; +wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for blanching; +pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one tablespoon; one +teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring cup; jar lifter; +either a rack for several jars or individual jar holders; and a clock. + +The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept busy +during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices for +outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the young +people of your family and give them something definite and worth while +to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must be kept +busy--if not usefully employed they are often inclined to mischief. +This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can be used in the +back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the front yard. + +Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of heat +required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for canning +are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of 500 feet +above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot increase in +altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the time required +as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning of all kinds of +fruits, vegetables, greens and meats. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + +Having decided on your canning outfit, whether you are going to can in +boiling water, in a condensed steam cooker, or in steam under +pressure; having gathered together the necessary tools, such as +spoons, knives and a funnel; having raided the storeroom and collected +some jars, you are now ready for the actual work of canning. + +It is rather unfortunate that strawberries should be one of the very +hardest products to can with good results. The canning itself is +simple--all berries are quickly and easily canned--but strawberries +always shrink, are apt to turn a little brown, and, what distresses us +most of all, they float to the top of the jar. + +The berry's tendency to shrink is responsible for loss of color as +well as its floating qualities. However, if you will be exceedingly +careful to remove the berries from the canner the minute the clock +says the sterilizing period is over, you will have a fairly good +product. Two minutes too long will produce a very dark, shrunken +berry. So be careful of the cooking time. Another thing that makes a +good-looking jar is to pack a quart of berries--all kinds of berries, +not merely strawberries--into a pint jar. If you will get that many in +you will have a much better-looking jar, with very little liquid at +the bottom. It does not hurt the berries at all to gently press down +on them with a silver spoon while you are packing them into the jar. + +We know we are going to get a quart of berries into every pint jar, +so we know just how many quarts of berries we will need to fill the +necessary jars for the next winter's use. + +The first thing to do is to test each jar to see that there are no +cracks, no rough edges to cut the rubber, and to see whether the cover +and clamp fit tightly, if a clamp type of jar is used. The bail that +clamps down the glass tops should go down with a good spring. If it +does not, remove the bail and bend it into shape by taking it in both +hands and pressing down in the middle with both thumbs. Do not bend it +too hard, for if it goes down with too much of a snap it will break +the jar. This testing of the bails should be done every year. The +bails on new jars are sometimes too tight, in which case remove the +bail and spread it out. After the bail has been readjusted, test it +again. The chances are it will be just right. Of course all this +testing takes time, but it pays. + +If you are using some old Mason jars put a rubber on each jar, fill +the jar with hot water, and then put the cover on tight and invert. +This is a sure test for leakage. Never use a Mason cap twice unless +the cover and collar are separate so that both can be completely +sterilized. Fortunately the old-fashioned Mason jar metal cover to +which a porcelain cap is fastened is going out of style. + +If you still have some of these old covers it will be economy to throw +them away. You will be money ahead in the end. After these tops have +been used once it is impossible to make a fastening between the +porcelain and the metal so tight that it is not possible for the +liquid to seep through and cause the contents to spoil. This accounts +for many failures when old tops are used. For this reason never use +the old-fashioned, zinc-topped covers. + +The new and safe Mason jar covers consist of two parts, the metal +collar and the porcelain cap. They are for sale at all grocery or +hardware stores. + +If you are using the vacuum-seal jars which have a composition +attached to the lacquered tops, carefully examine this rubber +composition to see that it is perfect. This composition should go +entirely round the top and should not be cut or broken in any place. +If it is the top must be discarded for a perfect one. + +Of course with this type of jar no rubber rings are necessary, as the +rubber composition on the lacquered top does the sealing. + +It is a wise plan to go round the tops and over the inside of all new +glass jars with a heavy and dull knife to scrape off any slivers of +glass or bursted blisters that may be still clinging to the jars. +Those on the tops cut through the rubber and cause leakage. Those in +the jars may get into the product. I often find these splinters, +particularly on new straight-sided jars. + +It matters not what type of jar you use. Use what you have at hand, +but if you are buying new jars consider the following things before +making your selections: No metal, unless it is enameled or lacquered, +should come in contact with the food. The jars should be of smooth, +well-finished glass. The color of the jar does not affect the keeping +qualities of the food. The top or part of the top that comes in +contact with the contents should be all in one piece, so as not to +offer a place for the accumulation of organisms and dirt. The jars +which have nearly straight sides and a wide mouth or opening are +easier to wash and facilitate better, quicker and easier packing of +the product. + +Wash the jars in soap and water. Rinse in boiling water. Some people +temper new jars so they will stand the shock of hot water or hot sirup +without breaking. If you wish to take this extra precaution put the +jars in a dishpan or kettle of cold water after they have been washed +in soapy water; bring the water slowly to a boil and let it boil +fifteen minutes. After the jars are ready test the rubber rings. This +may seem a useless precaution, but it is a necessary one, for there is +no one detail in the business of canning that is more important. Even +in the best boxes of rubbers there is occasionally a black sheep, and +one black sheep may cause the loss of a jar. + +Test each rubber before you use it by pressing it firmly between the +thumbs and forefingers, stretching it very slightly. If it seems soft +and spongy discard it. All rubbers fit for canning should be firm, +elastic, and should endure a stretching pull without breaking. A good +rubber ring will return promptly to place without changing the inside +diameter. + +A great many women are laboring under the wrong impression that color +affects the quality of a ring. Some women insist on red, and others on +white. Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter during the +manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index to its +usefulness in home canning. + +Use only fresh, sound strawberries or other berries. There is a little +knack about preparing the strawberries that few housewives know. Hull +the berries by _twisting the berries off the hull_, instead of pulling +the hull from the berry as most women do. You will have a +better-looking berry if you will be careful about this. Place the +berries in a strainer and pour cold water over them to cleanse them. + + +HOW TO ADJUST THE COVERS + +Never allow the berries or any fruit to stand in water, as the flavor +and color are destroyed by water-soaking. Pack in glass jars, pressing +the berries down tightly, but without crushing them. Put the rubber on +the jar if you are using a jar requiring a rubber. Pour hot sirup over +the berries. Put the top of the jar in place, but only partially +tighten it. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, screw down with the +thumb and little finger, not using force but stopping when the cover +catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +In using glass-top jars with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and leave the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while the product is +cooking, because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is +not loose enough to allow the steam to escape the pressure may blow +the rubber out or break the jar. + +The product is now ready for the canner. + + +STERILIZING + +If you are using the homemade outfit, such as wash-boiler or garbage +pail, all berries and soft fruits are sterilized sixteen minutes; in +all commercial hot-water-bath outfits and in condensed steam, sixteen +minutes; in the water-seal, twelve minutes; in the steam pressure +under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; and in the pressure cooker +under ten pounds of steam, five minutes. Do not allow the pressure to +run above ten pounds for soft fruits; fifteen pounds makes them mushy. + +If you use any type of hot-water-bath outfit be sure the water is +boiling when the fruit is lowered into the canner, and _keep it +boiling_ vigorously for the entire sixteen minutes. At the end of the +sterilizing time, _immediately_ remove the jars from the canner. + +In taking canned goods from boiling water care is needed to see that +they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows and +doors while lifting the jars out, as a sudden draft might break them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes if a cover is +screwed down too tight the pressure of the steam from the inside +causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a thread or +two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. + +In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber it should be replaced by a new one, and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert the jar to test the joint, then let it cool. If the seal is not +perfect correct the fault and return the jar to the cooker for five +minutes if hot, ten minutes if the jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool, and +then be tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only half an inch, holding it over the +table, so that in case the lid does not hold the jar and contents will +not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the cover with +a rule. An imperfect seal will give a hollow sound. + +As light injures delicately colored fruits and vegetables, it is wise +to store them in dark places, such as cupboards, or basement or attic +shelves protected from the light. Black cambric tacked to the top +shelf and suspended over the other shelves is a sufficient protection +from light. A discarded window shade can be rolled down over the +shelves and easily pulled up when you desire to take a jar from the +shelves. + +Canned goods are best kept at a temperature below seventy degrees +Fahrenheit, where that is at all possible. + + +STEPS IN CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +It might be well to enumerate the steps in berry and soft-fruit +canning, or do what we called in our schooldays "review it": + +1. Get the canner and all its accessories ready. + +2. Test and wash jars and tops and put in water to sterilize. + +3. Test rubber rings. + +4. Make sirup and put in double boiler to keep hot + +5. Prepare the product--hull, seed, stem. + +6. Place berries or fruit in strainer or colander. + +7. Rinse by pouring cold water over product. + +8. Pack from strainer into hot jar. + +9. Use big spoon to get a firm pack. + +10. Dip rubber in hot water to cleanse it and put it in place on the +jar. + +11. Pour the hot sirup over the fruit at once. + +12. Put top of jar on, but not tight. + +13. Ready for canner. + +14. Sterilize for the necessary length of time, according to the +outfit you are using: + + MINUTES + + Hot-water-bath outfit 16 + Condensed-steam outfit 16 + Water-seal outfit 12 + Steam pressure, 5 pounds, outfit 10 + Pressure cooker, 10 pounds, outfit 5 + +15. Remove from canner. + +16. Tighten cover, except vacuum-seal jar, which seals automatically. + +17. Test joint. + +18. Three or four days later, if perfectly air-tight, label and store +in a dark place. + +These steps are followed for strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, +dewberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, raspberries, and for all soft +fruits, such as cherries, currants, grapes and figs. + +The other soft fruits, such as peaches and apricots, which have a +skin, are scalded or "hot dipped" for one to two minutes in boiling +water or steam and are then plunged into cold water. These two steps +of hot-dipping and cold dipping make the removal of skins a very +simple operation. After the skins are removed the fruit is put into +the hot jars and the process continued from Step 8, as with +strawberries. + + +SIRUPS + +Of course you are wondering about the sirups for the different fruits. +There is no set rule for making sirup. It is not necessary to use +sirup in canning fruits. The amount of sugar used in the sirup will +depend upon the individual taste. In a first-class product there +should be enough sirup to improve its flavor, but not enough to make +it take the place in the diet of a sweet preserve rather than a fresh +fruit. + +The sirups are made either with varying proportions of sugar and water +or with the same proportions boiled different lengths of time. What is +known as the California sirup is made with three parts of sugar to two +parts of water, boiled gently to different concentrations. + +Thin Sirup. For a thin sirup take three cups of sugar and two cups +of water. Mix sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. This is +used for all sweet fruits not too delicate in texture and color, as +apples, cherries, pears, or for fruits in which more sugar will be +added in preparation for the table. + +Medium Thin Sirup. The sugar and water should be boiled about four +minutes, or until it begins to be sirupy. This is used for +raspberries, peaches, blackberries, currants, etc. + +Medium Thick Sirup. Boil the sugar and water until it will pile up +over the edge of the spoon when it is tipped. This is used for sour or +acid fruits, as plums, gooseberries, apricots, sour apples, and some +of the delicately colored fruits, as strawberries. + +Thick Sirup. The sugar and water are boiled until it will form a +ball in the spoon and cannot be poured from the spoon. This is used +for preserves. + +It is possible to get more, sometimes almost twice as much, sirup +into a quart jar containing large fruits, as apples and pears, than +into a quart jar containing small fruits, as currants or blackberries. + +There is a little knack worth knowing about combining the sugar and +water for the sirup. If the sugar is sifted into the boiling water +just as fine-grained cereals are sifted into water, there will be no +scum formed. This is a saving of sugar. + +If you wish to can strawberries for the market or to win a prize at +the county or state fairs, can them as follows: + +Canned by this recipe, strawberries will not rise to the top of the +sirup. Use only fresh, ripe, firm and sound berries. Prepare them, and +add eight ounces of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water to each +quart of berries. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes in an enameled or +acid-proof kettle. Allow the berries to cool and remain several hours +or over-night in the covered kettle. Pack the cold berries in hot +glass jars. Put rubbers and caps of jars in position, not tight. +Sterilize for the length of time given below for the type of outfit +used: + + MINUTES + Water bath, homemade or commercial 8 + Water seal, 214 degrees 6 + 5 pounds steam pressure 5 + 10 pounds steam pressure. Do not use. + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool and test +the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +HARD FRUITS + + +PINEAPPLES + +The object of canning citrus fruits is, first, to save the surplus and +by-products; second, to furnish wholesome fruits at reasonable cost to +more of our people; third, to help the producer to transform +by-products into net profits. + +Almost every one likes canned pineapple, but some housewives stopped +canning this fruit because they found that when cooked in sirup it +seemed to get tough and less palatable. Vegetable and fruit fibers are +toughened when cooked with sugar for any length of time, so in all +cases where you desire to keep the product as Nature grew it avoid +this form of cooking. + +When the product is put into the jars with a sirup and cooked in the +jar you will have a product superior to the one that is cooked over +the direct fire in the kettle with the sirup. + +But pineapple slices or pieces are so hard they cannot be put directly +into the jars as berries are. Pineapples must undergo a preliminary +process to make them palatable and soft. This preliminary process is +known in canning as "blanching." + +After the pineapple has been prepared by paring and removing the eyes, +it can be left in slices or cut into cubes. In cutting hold the +pineapple at the top and use a sharp knife. It is then placed in a +wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth for the blanching. Blanching +means to immerse the product in boiling water for a certain length of +time to reduce its bulk and soften it. + +Pineapples are blanched for five minutes. We scald peaches and +apricots, which are soft fruits; but we blanch pineapples, apples and +quinces, the hard fruits. + +Scalding means to immerse the product in boiling water for a very +short time--just long enough to loosen the skins. Blanching is just a +longer period of scalding. + +When you blanch pineapples use only enough water to cover them. This +same blanching water can be used for making the sirup. It contains +much of the pineapple flavor and there is no reason for discarding it. +But this is absolutely the only blanching water that is ever used. All +other blanching water, particularly that in which vegetables are +blanched, is full of objectionable acids that we want to get rid of, +so under no circumstances must it be used. But with pineapples the +object of blanching is primarily to soften the hard fiber, so there is +no objection to using the blanching water. + +After the pineapple has been in the covered kettle of boiling water +for five minutes, it is held under cold water until cool enough to +handle. Never let it soak in cold water, as that will impair its +delicate flavor. After this it is packed into hot sterilized jars. +Rubber rings are put on the jars, the covers are put in place--not +tight--and the jars are put in the canner. + +Pineapple is sterilized for thirty minutes in a hot-water-bath outfit; +thirty minutes in a condensed steam outfit; twenty-five minutes in the +water-seal; twenty-five minutes in the steam pressure under five +pounds of steam, and eighteen minutes in the pressure cooker under ten +pounds of pressure. At the end of the sterilizing period the jars are +removed, the covers completely tightened and the joints carefully +tested for leakage. + +A thin or medium-thin sirup is best for pineapples. Measure the +blanching water and to every two cups of it add three cups of sugar. +If you wish the sirup thin heat until the sugar is dissolved. If +medium-thin sirup is desired, boil it about four minutes or until it +begins to be sirupy. + + +STEPS IN CANNING PINEAPPLE + +1. Cut the pineapple into slices of desired thickness. + +2. Pare the slices. It is easier to pare the slices than to pare the +whole pineapple. + +3. Remove the eyes, using pineapple scissors to facilitate the work. + +4. Blanch pineapple for five minutes in a small amount of boiling +water, using a wire basket or cheesecloth. + +5. Cold-dip the pineapple. + +6. Make a sirup, using the blanching water. Make a thin or medium-thin +sirup. + +7. Pack the pineapple into hot sterilized jars, with good rubbers on +them. + +8. Pour the sirup over the pineapple. + +9. Put the tops of the jars on--not tight. + +10. Sterilize for 30 minutes in hot-water-bath outfit, 30 minutes in +condensed-steam outfit, 25 minutes in water-seal outfit, 25 minutes in +steam pressure (5 pounds), 18 minutes in pressure cooker (10 pounds). + +11. Remove from canner, tighten covers and inspect rubber and joints. + + +APPLES + +Here are six ways in which canned apples may be used: as a breakfast +dish, with cream and sugar; baked like fresh apples; in apple salad, +often served for lunch or supper; as a relish with roast pork--the +apples may be fried in the pork fat or the cores may be cooked with +roast pork for flavoring; and for apple dumplings, deep apple pie and +other desserts in which whole apples are desirable. The sirup of +canned whole apples can be used for pudding sauces or fruit drinks. + +Apples are another hard fruit which require blanching, as it greatly +improves their texture and appearance. + +Apples and some other fruits, such as pears and quinces, have a +tendency to turn brown when allowed to stand after they are cut. To +prevent their discoloring the pieces may be dropped into mild salt +water as they are pared and sliced. Let them stand for five minutes, +then wash them in clear water and pack. Use a thin sirup for canning +apples. + +Summer apples are not firm enough to keep well when canned. They cook +up and lose flavor. They may, however, be canned to be used in a short +time. Windfall apples may be pared, cored and sliced, using water, and +only a small quantity of that, instead of sirup, and canned for pies. + +To be able to can windfall and cull apples and thus have them for home +use through the entire year is a great advantage to all farmers who +grow them. They can be sold on the market canned when they would not +bring a cent in the fresh state. + +The windfall and cull apples may be divided into two grades. The +first grade would include the whole reasonably sound fruit; the second +grade the worm-eaten, partially decayed and injured fruit. Do not can +any injured or decayed part nor allow apples to become overripe before +canning. + +Canning Whole Reasonably Firm Apples. Wash the apples. Remove cores +and blemishes. Place whole apples in blanching tray or blanching cloth +and blanch in boiling hot water for one or two minutes. Remove and +plunge quickly into cold water. Pack in large glass jars. Pour over +the product a hot thin sirup. Place rubber and top in position. Seal +partially--not tight. + +Sterilize jars twenty minutes in hot-water-bath outfit and in +condensed steam, fifteen minutes in water-seal, ten minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam pressure, five minutes +in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit, under ten pounds of steam +pressure. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. + +Firm and tart apples may be cored and peeled first, then canned by the +above recipe. + +Canning Apples for Pie Filling. Use second grade of windfalls or +culls. Wash, core, pare and remove all decayed spots. Slice apple +quickly into a basin containing slightly salted cold water--about one +tablespoon of salt per gallon--to prevent discoloring. Pack fresh cold +product in glass jars. Add one cupful of hot thin sirup to each quart +of fruit. Put on the rubbers and screw on tops, but do not seal +completely. Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ten minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes +under five pounds of steam pressure; four minutes in aluminum +pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +joint. Store. + +This filling can be used for making apple pies in the same way that +fresh apples would be used, with the exception that the sirup must be +poured off and less sugar should be used. Since the apples have +already been cooked, only enough heat is needed to cook the crust and +to warm the apples through. Pies may be baked in seven minutes. The +apple pies made with these apples are, in the opinion of many +housekeepers, as good as those made with fresh fruit, and they can be +made in less time and are less expensive. + +The only difference between canning apples for pies and salads or +whole is that when wanted for pies the apples should be sliced +immediately after placing in cold slightly salted water. + +Canning Quartered Apples for Fruit Salads. Select best-grade culls +of firm and rather tart varieties. Core, pare and quarter. Drop into +basin containing slightly salted cold water. Pack these quartered +pieces tightly in jars. Add a cup of hot thin sirup to each quart. +Place rubber and top in position, partially seal--not tight. Sterilize +twelve minutes in hot-water bath and condensed-steam outfits; ten +minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes under five pounds of steam +pressure; four minutes in aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, +tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. Store. + + +ORANGES + +Canning Whole Oranges and Other Citrus Fruits. Select windfall or +packing-plant culls. Use no unsound or decayed fruit. Remove skin and +white fiber on surface. Blanch fruit in boiling water one and a half +minutes. Dip quickly in cold water. Pack containers full. Add boiling +hot thin sirup. Place rubber and cap in position and partially +seal--not tight. + +Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; eight minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes in +steam-pressure outfit under five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert +to cool and test joints. Wrap glass jars with paper to prevent +bleaching, and store. + +Canning Sliced Oranges for Salad Purposes. The oranges may be +divided into their natural sections or sliced with a knife. Pack jars +or containers full. Pour over product hot thin sirup. Place rubber and +cap in position. Partially seal--not tight. Sterilize ten minutes in +hot-water-bath and condensed-steam outfits; six minutes in water-seal +outfit; five minutes in steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of +steam; four minutes in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit under ten +pounds of steam. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +the joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching, and store. + + +PEARS, QUINCES AND RHUBARB + +Pears are prepared and canned just as the whole firm apples are, being +blanched a minute and a half, cold-dipped and sterilized for the same +length of time as apples. + +Quinces are so very hard they must be blanched like pineapples, but +for a longer time. Six minutes' blanching is usually sufficient for +quinces. The sterilizing period can be determined by looking at the +chart. + +If skins are left on rhubarb it keeps its pink color. The hot dip is +not necessary and may be omitted. It removes some of the excessive +acid in the rhubarb which makes it objectionable to some people. Be +very careful not to hot-dip the rhubarb more than one minute, for it +gets mushy. An advantage of the hot dip is that more rhubarb can be +packed in a jar after it has been hot-dipped. + + +WHAT A BUSHEL OF FRUIT WILL YIELD + +A great many women have no conception of how many jars of fruit they +will get from a bushel or half bushel of produce. It is wise to have a +little knowledge along this line, for it aids in planning the winter's +supply of canned goods as well as at marketing time. + +From one bushel of the various fruits you will get on the average the +following: + + PRODUCTS, 1 BUSHEL PINT JARS QUART JARS + + Windfall apples 30 20 + + Standard peaches 25 18 + + Pears 45 30 + + Plums 45 30 + + Berries 50 30 + + Windfall oranges--sliced 22 15 + + Windfall oranges--whole 35 22 + + +CANNING WITHOUT SUGAR + +Though all instructions indicate that sugar is necessary for the +canning of all kinds of fruits, it is not necessary for their proper +sterilization and preservation. Any fruit may be successfully +sterilized by simply adding boiling water instead of the hot sirup. It +is a well-known fact, however, that most fruits canned in water will +not retain so well their natural flavor, texture and color as fruit +canned in sirup. When the product is to be used for pies, salads, and +so on it is not necessary to can in sirup. When fruits canned in water +are to be used for sauces, the products should be sweetened before +use. In many instances it requires more sugar to sweeten a sauce after +canning than it does when the product is canned in the hot sirup. + +However, during the World War we had a good chance to test the fruits +which we canned without sugar, when that commodity was scarce and, in +fact, impossible to get in very large quantities. We used our fruits +just as they were and considered them very good. This all goes to show +that we can easily adjust ourselves to prevailing conditions. In +canning without the sugar sirup, you would follow these directions: + +Cull, stem or seed, and clean fruit by placing in a strainer and +pouring water over it until clean. Pack product thoroughly in glass +jars until full; use table knife or tablespoon for packing purposes. +Pour over the fruit boiling water from kettle, place rubbers and caps +in position, partially seal glass jars and place produce in canner. + +If using hot-water-bath outfit sterilize from twenty to thirty +minutes. After sterilizing remove packs, seal glass jars, wrap in +paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry cool place. + +When using a steam-pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath +sterilize for ten minutes with five pounds of steam pressure. Never +allow the pressure to go over ten pounds when you are canning soft +fruits. + + +WHEN TO CAN + +Inexperienced canners may not know when certain fruits are in season +and at their prime for canning. The list below is necessarily subject +to change, as seasons vary from year to year; but in normal years this +table would hold true for the Northern States. + + Apples September + Apricots August + Blackberries August + Cherries July + Currants July + Gooseberries July + Grapes September + Huckleberries July + Peaches August-September + Pears September + Pineapple June + Plums August + Quinces September + Raspberries July + Rhubarb All summer + Strawberries May-June + +For your canning you will need as your guide the charts on the pages +which follow. They are very simple and will tell you how to prepare +all the various fruits, whether or not they are to be blanched, and if +so exactly how many minutes, and how long to cook or sterilize the +products, according to the outfit you are using. + + + +CHART FOR CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +[A] NUMBER OF MINUTES TO BLANCH OR HOT-DIP +[B] IN HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212°F +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + KIND OF | [A] |[B] |[C] |[D] |[E] |[F] |REMARKS + FRUIT/PREPARATION | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + APRICOTS: To remove|1 to 2| 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + skins hot-dip and | | | | | | |medium-thick + cold-dip. Can be | | | | | | |sirup + canned with the | | | | | | | + skins. Pits give a | | | | | | | + good flavor | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + BLACKBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + BLUEBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CHERRIES: Wash, | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + remove stems, and | | | | | | |sirup if sour; + remove pits if | | | | | | |thin sirup if + desired. If pitted | | | | | | |sweet + save the juice | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + CURRANTS: Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CRANBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + DEWBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + FIGS: Wash and stem| None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Figs can be + | | | | | | |hot- dipped for + | | | | | | |a minute or two + | | | | | | |if desired. + | | | | | | |Hot-dipping + | | | | | | |shrinks the + | | | | | | |figs so more + | | | | | | |can be packed + | | | | | | |in a jar + | | | | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + and snip off stems | | | | | | |medium-thick + and blossom ends | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + GRAPES Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + HUCKLEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + PEACHES Blanch and | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 |*10 | X |*Use only 5 + cold-dip, then | | | | | | |pounds + remove skins. | | | | | | |pressure. If + | | | | | | |peaches are + | | | | | | |canned under + | | | | | | |more than 5 + | | | | | | |pounds of + | | | | | | |pressure they + | | | | | | |become + | | | | | | |flavorless and + | | | | | | | + PLUMS Wash; stones | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |For sweet plums + may be removed if | | | | | | |use thin or + desired. | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup; for sour + | | | | | | |plums use + | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RASPBERRIES pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RHUBARB Wash, cut | 1 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Be very careful + into ½ inch pieces.| | | | | | |not to hot-dip + Use sharp knife | | | | | | |the rhubarb + | | | | | | |more than one + | | | | | | |minute, for it + | | | | | | |gets mushy + | | | | | | | + STRAWBERRIES Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + over, wash and hull| | | | | | |medium-thick + | | | | | | |sirup + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + HARD FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | | | | | | + APPLES Pare, core |1½ to | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + and cut into halves| 2 | | | | | | + or smaller pieces | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PEARS Wash, pare or| 1½ | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + not as desired. | | | | | | | + Small pears may be | | | | | | | + canned whole or | | | | | | | + quartered | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PINEAPPLE Cut into | 5 | 30 | 30 | 25 | 25 | 18 |Use thin or + slices or inch | | | | | | |medium-thin + cubes. The cores | | | | | | |sirup + can be removed | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUINCES Remove | 6 | 40 | 40 | 30 | 25 | 20 |Apples, pears + skins and cores. | | | | | | |and quinces + Cut into convenient| | | | | | |should be + slices | | | | | | |dropped into + | | | | | | |salt water to + | | | | | | |keep fruit from + | | | | | | |turning brown. + | | | | | | |Use salt in the + | | | | | | |proportion of + | | | | | | |one + | | | | | | |tablespoonful + WINDFALL APPLES FOR| | | | | | |to one gallon + | | | | | | |of water. Use + | | | | | | |thin + | | | | | | | + PIE FILLING Cut | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + into halves | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUARTERED APPLES | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + FOR SALAD | | | | | | |and save the + | | | | | | |sugar for other + | | | | | | |purposes + | | | | | | | + CRAB APPLES Pare | None | 16 | 16 | 8 | 5 | 5 |Can in water or + and core | | | | | | |use thin sirup + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + CITRUS FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + ORANGES, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + LEMONS, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT, WHOLE | 1½ | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + ORANGE AND OTHER | None | 10 | 10 | 6 | 5 | 4 |Use thin sirup + CITRUS FRUITS, | | | | | | | + SLICED Slice with a| | | | | | | + sharp knife | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + FRUITS CANNED IN | 30 | 30 | 20 | 12 | 10 | | + WATER WITHOUT SUGAR| | | | | | | + SIRUP | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + +NOTE.--When cooking products in pint or half-pint jars deduct three or +four minutes from the time given above. When cooking in two-quart jars +add 3 or 4 minutes to time. The estimates given are for quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +VEGETABLES + + +It is practical to can all vegetables, even such difficult ones as +corn, peas and beans, by the cold-pack method of canning without using +any preservatives, if you will follow all directions, instructions and +the time-table accurately. Vegetable canning is a little more +complicated than fruit canning. + + +TOMATOES + +Every one likes canned tomatoes. In many homes more tomatoes are +canned than any other product. The housewife uses them for soups, for +sauces and for seasoning many meat dishes. Some women say: "I can +preserve everything but tomatoes. They always spoil. What do I do +wrong?" If the following directions are followed tomatoes will not +spoil. + +Tomatoes really are the easiest vegetable to can, because the period +of sterilization is short, and many jars may be canned in a day, or if +one is very busy a few jars may be canned daily without the +expenditure of a great deal of time. + +The best tomatoes for canning are those of moderate size, smooth and +uniformly ripe. When a tomato ripens unevenly or when it is misshapen, +it is difficult to peel, and the percentage of waste is high. Tomatoes +should not be picked when they are green or partly ripe, for the +flavor will not be so good as when they are allowed to remain upon +the vines until fully ripe. Care should be taken, however, not to +allow them to become overripe before canning. + +In no instance should a tomato with a rotten spot be canned, even +though the spot is cut out, for the occasional spoiled jar resulting +from this attempted saving will cost more than the partly spoiled +tomatoes are worth. If the housewife will can only uniformly ripe, +sound tomatoes, saving the small, uneven but sound fruit for tomato +_purée_, she will have a much better-looking pack and greater food +value at the close of the season. Yellow tomatoes may be canned in the +same manner as are the more common red varieties, except that it is +not necessary to remove the cores. + +First of all, grade for ripeness, size and quality; this is to insure +a high-grade product. We could, of course, can different sizes and +shades together, but uniform products are more pleasing to the eye and +will sterilize much more evenly. If the products are of the same +ripeness and quality, the entire pack will receive the proper degree +of cooking. + +Wash the tomatoes. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Put the +tomatoes in a wire basket, or lay them on a piece of cheesecloth or a +towel, twist the ends together to form a sack, and let this down into +the kettle. It is a good plan to slip a rubber band round the neck of +this sack to hold the ends in place. The ends should be long enough to +stand up out of the water and so avoid danger of burning the fingers +when removing the product. + +Have the water boiling hard. Lower the tomatoes into the boiling +water. This is called scalding the tomatoes. We scald the tomatoes to +loosen the skin. If the tomatoes are very ripe, one minute scalding +will be sufficient. The average length of time for tomatoes, just +perfect for canning, is one and a half minutes. Do not leave the +tomatoes in the hot water until the skins break, as this gives them a +fuzzy appearance. + +The scalding kettle always should be covered, to keep in all the heat +possible. Begin to time from the minute the product is immersed in the +boiling water. If you wait until the water comes back to a boil, you +will scald the product too long and have mushy tomatoes. + +Lift the tomatoes out of the hot water and plunge them immediately +into cold water, or hold them under the cold-water faucet. The +cold-dip makes them easier to handle, separates the skin from the +pulp, firms the texture, and coagulates the coloring matter so it +stays near the surface, giving them a rich, red color. Then the shock +due to the sudden change from hot to cold and back to hot again seems +to help kill the spores. Do not let the product stand in the cold-dip. +The water becomes lukewarm, softens the product and allows bacteria to +develop. + +Take the tomato in the left hand and with a sharp knife cut out the +core. Be careful not to cut into the fleshy portion or seed cells, for +this will scatter the seeds and pulp through the liquid, injuring the +appearance of the product. Cut out the core before removing the skin, +for the skin will protect the pulp and there will be less danger of +breaking the tomato. If the tomatoes are ripe and have been scalded +properly, the skin can be slipped off with the fingers. + +The jars, rubbers and tops should be ready. Glass jars should be hot, +so there will be no danger of breakage in setting them in the hot +water, and so they will not cool the water in the cooker below the +boiling point. + +Pack the tomatoes whole, pressing and shaking them well down together, +but not using force enough to crush them. + +Now we come to a point where tomatoes are different from most +vegetables. Beans, carrots, peas, and so on, have hot water added to +them. But as a large part of the tomato is water, no more is needed. +Another exception where no water is needed is with the "greens +family." So with tomatoes we add no water, but add one teaspoonful of +salt and one teaspoonful of sugar, just for seasoning, to every quart +jar. I think that tomatoes always are improved by the addition of a +little sugar, but this is not necessary and can be omitted, as also +can be the salt. + +The salt in canning does not act as a preservative, but as seasoning; +so if for any reason you forget the salt, do not be alarmed. Your +products will keep perfectly without the salt. + + +THE WAY TO SEAL + +The products are in the hot jars now. The jars do not need to be full +in order to keep. If you were canning by the "open-kettle" method, the +air in the partly filled jar would not have been sterilized, and might +contain the bacteria which cause the product to ferment or mold. But +by the cold pack, the air in the can is sterilized while the product +is being sterilized; and if the can is closed immediately after +cooking, a single spoonful may be canned in a two-quart jar and the +product will keep indefinitely. + +Place Rubber and Cover on Jar. Fit the rubber. Use good rubbers and +see that they lie flat and fit close up to the can. Put the covers in +place. + +Do Not Seal Glass Jars Tight. If using screw-top jars screw each +cover down until it catches, then turn a quarter of a round back; or +screw down with the thumb and little finger, not using force but +stopping when the cover catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +If using glass-top jars, with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while processing, because +the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is not loose enough +to allow the steam to escape, the pressure may blow the rubber out or +break the jar. + +When canning in tin we cap and tip the cans at once. The tin will +bulge out, but is strong enough to withstand the pressure, and when +the contents cool the can will come back into shape. + +The jars are now ready for the canner. Tomatoes sterilized under +boiling water require twenty-two minutes; in condensed-steam cooker, +twenty-two minutes; in water-seal, eighteen minutes; in +steam-pressure, with five pounds, fifteen minutes, and in the pressure +cooker, at ten or fifteen pounds, ten minutes. + +If you use the homemade outfit or any water-bath outfit be sure the +water is boiling when the jars of tomatoes are lowered into the +canner. Time lost in bringing the contents to the point of +sterilization softens the tomatoes and results in inferior goods. Use +the ordinary good sense with which you have been endowed in handling +the jars and you will have no breakage. At the end of the sterilizing +period, remove the jars. + +In taking canned goods from boiling hot water, care is needed to see +that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows +and doors while lifting the jars out, for a sudden draft might break +them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes, if the +covers are screwed down too tight, the pressure of the steam from the +inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a +thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. In +case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber, it should be replaced by a new one and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert to test the joint and cool. If the seal is not perfect, correct +the fault, and return the jar to the cooker for five minutes if hot, +ten minutes if jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool and +then tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only a half inch, holding it over the +table so that, in case the lid does not hold, the jar and contents +will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the +cover with a ruler. An imperfect seal will cause a hollow sound. + +Tomato Purée. Small, misshapen, unevenly ripened tomatoes may be +converted into tomato _purée_. The tomatoes should be washed, run +through a colander to remove skins and cores, concentrated by cooking +to about half the original volume, and packed in the jars. Rubbers and +tops should then be placed in position and the product sterilized for +the same length of time as for canned tomatoes. _Purée_ even may be +kept in bottles sealed with sterilized corks and dipped several times +in paraffin. + + +HOW OTHER VEGETABLES ARE CANNED + +All other vegetables are canned exactly like tomatoes, with two +exceptions. Tomatoes are scalded. All other vegetables are blanched. +We scald tomatoes to loosen the skins and to start the flow of the +coloring matter, which is later arrested or coagulated by the +cold-dip. + +Blanching is scalding, only for a longer time. Scalding is never for +more than two minutes. Blanching covers from three to thirty minutes. + +We blanch beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, and so +on, for three to ten minutes. We blanch these vegetables to eliminate +any objectionable acids or bitter flavors which may be present, and +thus improve the flavor; to reduce the bulk so we can pack closer; to +start the flow of the coloring matter; to improve the texture of the +vegetables by making them more tender, and to improve the appearance +by helping to make clear the liquid in the jar. Blanching is what +makes for success in the cold-pack method of canning. Blanching is +_very_ important and must be carefully and accurately done. + +Let me repeat about blanching: Have the kettle of blanching water +_boiling vigorously, completely immerse_ the product in the boiling +water, cover the kettle _immediately_ and begin to time the product. +Do not stand with the cover in hand and wait for the water to come +back to the boil, for, of course, it stopped boiling for a second when +you lowered into it the cold product. If you cover the kettle the +water will quickly reboil. Do not keep wondering if it is boiling and +take off the cover to see. All these may seem foolish precautions, but +it is necessary to follow directions accurately. + +And remember, all things that are scalded or blanched must be followed +immediately by a cold plunge or "cold-dip." The scalding or blanching +is the "hot-dip," and this must be followed by the "cold-dip." You may +be asking, what is the point of this "cold-dip"? It is a very logical +question. + +We "cold-dip" a product to harden the pulp under the skin and thus +permit the removal of the skin without injury to the pulp; to +coagulate the coloring matter and make it harder to dissolve during +the sterilization period and to make it easier to handle the products +in packing, and to subject the product to a sudden shock by quick +change in temperature. + + +STEPS IN CANNING VEGETABLES + +If you will follow these steps for all vegetable canning you cannot +help but be successful: + +1. Clean jars and test rubbers. If rubbers do not return to normal +shape after stretching, do not use. + +2. Prepare material to be canned, according to directions given on +chart. + +3. Hot-dip--blanch or scald--the prepared food. This process consists +of immersing the prepared product in boiling water for different +lengths of time, according to the material to be canned. See chart. +Hot-dipping shrinks the product and enables one to pack more material +in a jar. + +4. Cold-dip the material. This process consists of plunging the +blanched or scalded food into cold water, which makes it more easily +handled. Be sure the water is cold; the colder the better. + +Take the product out immediately and let it drain. _Don't let any food +soak in the cold water._ + +From this point on, speed is highly important. The blanched vegetables +which are slightly warm must not be allowed to remain out of the jars +a moment longer than is necessary. + +Remove skins when required, and as each article is pared cut it into +pieces of proper size and + +5. Pack directly into the clean, scalded cans or jars. Pack as solidly +as possible, being careful not to bruise or mash soft products. Pack +the product to within three-eighths of an inch of the top. Lima beans, +navy beans, peas, corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell, so pack them +within only one inch of the top of the jar. + +6. Add seasoning. One teaspoonful salt to every quart jar of +vegetables, and an equal amount of sugar to tomatoes, corn and peas if +desired. + +7. Add boiling water to within a quarter inch of top to all +vegetables, except tomatoes and greens. Tomatoes contain ninety-four +per cent water, so none should be added. Tomato juice can be used if +desired. Greens are canned in just the water that clings to the +leaves after the cold-dip. + +8. Adjust rubber rings and the covers of the jars; partially seal. + +9. Sterilize--see time-table on pages following. + +10. Remove from canner and completely seal. Test for leaks. Cool jars +as rapidly as possible, without drafts striking them. + +Rapid cooling of the product prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture of the product. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR VARIOUS VEGETABLES + +Greens. No water is added to greens. Ninety percent of greens is +water. They are high in mineral matter and we must preserve that. + +Asparagus. Remove string before packing in jar. Can or dry tough ends +for soup. If asparagus is packed in jars as whole stalks, pack with +the tips up. + +Tomatoes. Remove skins before packing. Tomatoes may be canned whole or +in pieces. Skin, cook and strain imperfect tomatoes. Use this for +liquid; as 94 per cent of the tomato is water, no water is needed. + +Eggplants. Make slices about ½ to ¾ of an inch thick. Do not add salt, +as it causes eggplants to turn dark. + +Pumpkin and squash. If you do not wish to scrape out of the shells you +can remove seeds, pare and cut into small blocks of uniform size. Then +blanch. + +Sweet corn. Corn expands a little in processing, and for this reason +jars should not be filled quite full. Corn that has reached the dough +stage before being packed will have a cheesy appearance after +canning. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the cold-dip water. + +Field corn. This product is commonly known as corn-club breakfast +food. The corn should be selected between the milk and the dough +stage. Wide-mouthed glass jars or tin cans should be used for canning +this product. Avoid packing container too full, as the product swells +during the sterilization period. The corn should be canned the same +day it is picked from the field if possible. After this product has +been sterilized and cooked and stored away it will form a solid, +butter-like mass which may be cut into convenient slices for toasting, +frying and baking purposes. + +Mushrooms. Do not fail to blanch and cold dip. After opening +containers remove the mushrooms immediately and use them as quickly as +possible. + +Sweet peppers. Place the peppers in the oven and bake them until the +skins separate from the meat. Remove the skin. Pack in hot jars. Add 1 +teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Add boiling water. + +Lima beans. Lima beans can be either blanched or steamed. If blanched +allow 5 minutes; if in live steam allow 10. + +Wax or string beans. Beans can be canned whole or cut into uniform +pieces. + +Cabbage and cauliflower. Cabbage and cauliflower should be soaked in +cold brine (½ lb. salt to 12 quarts water) for one hour before +blanching. + +Brussels sprouts. Use small solid heads. + +Peas. A cloudy or hazy appearance of the liquid indicates that the +product was roughly handled in blanching and cold dipping, or that +broken peas were not removed before packing. + +Carrots and parsnips. Carrots can be packed whole, in slices or in +cross-section pieces. Skin of parsnips can be scraped off after +blanching and cold dipping. + +Beets. Small beets that run 40 to a quart are the most suitable size +for first-class packs. Well-canned beets will show a slight loss of +color when removed from the canner, but will brighten up in a few +days. + +Turnips. Scrape skin after blanching and cold dipping. + +Corn and tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to every quart of +mixture. Mix 2 parts of tomatoes with 1 part corn. One teaspoonful of +sugar improves the flavor. + +Corn, tomatoes and string beans. Use 1 part of corn, 1 part of green +string beans and 3 parts of tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt and 1 +teaspoonful of sugar to every quart jar. + +CHARTS FOR CANNING ALL VEGETABLES AND GREENS + +[A] SCALDING OR BLANCHING MINUTES +[B] IN BOILING WATER OR HOMEMADE OUTFIT (212°F.) +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + VEGETABLES/ NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 1--Greens, Domestic and Wild +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ALL GREENS--SPINACH, |Steam in | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at +BEET TOPS, CHARD, |colander or | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. +DANDELIONS, ETC. |in steamer | | | | | + Pick over; wash in |until wilted| | | | | + several waters. |Takes about | | | | | + |15 minutes. | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 2 --Special Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ASPARAGUS |Blanch tough| 90 | 90 | 60 | 50 |25, at + Wash, remove woody |ends 4 |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)| |10 lbs. + ends; cut to fit |minutes, tip| | | | | + jar; tie in bundles.|ends 2 | | | | | + | minutes. | | | | | + | | | | | | +TOMATOES Select | Scald 1½ | 22 | 22 | 18 | 18 |10, at + fresh, ripe, firm | | | | | |10 lbs. + tomatoes. Skins | | | | | | + will slip off after| | | | | | + scalding and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +EGGPLANTS Remove skin| Blanch 3 | 60 | 60 | 50 | 45 |30, at + after blanching | | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |10 lbs. + and cold dipping. | | | | | | + Slice crosswise and| | | | | | + pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +PUMPKIN AND SQUASH | Blanch 5 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections; | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + remove seeds; | | | | | | + scrape shells after| | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--SWEET | 5 on cob | 180 | 180 | 120 | 90 |60, at + Cut corn from cob, | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)|10 lbs. + blanch immediately | | | | | | + after and cold dip.| | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--FIELD | 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |50, at + Remove husk and | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + silk. Cut the corn | | | | | | + from the cob after | | | | | | + it has been blanched| | | | | | + and cold dipped. | | | | | | + Feed the corn to a | | | | | | + food chopper and | | | | | | + grind to a pulp. | | | | | | + Cook this product | | | | | | + in a kettle, add | | | | | | + 2/3 teaspoonful | | | | | | + sugar and 1/3 | | | | | | + teaspoonful salt to| | | | | | + each quart. Cook | | | | | | + (stir while cooking)| | | | | | + until the product | | | | | | + has assumed a | | | | | | + thickened or | | | | | | + pastelike mass. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +MUSHROOMS If small, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 50 |30, at + can them whole; if | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)|(1-1/3 | |10 lbs. + large they may be | | | | hr) | | + cut into sections. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +SWEET PEPPERS Use | .. | 90 | 90 | 75 | 60 |40, at + either green or red| |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)|(1¾ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + peppers. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 3--Pod Vegetables and Other Green Products +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +BEANS--LIMA | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | | | +BEANS--WAX OR STRING | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Wash and string. | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | | | +CABBAGE Use small | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + solid heads of | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + cabbage. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CAULIFLOWER Use | 3 | 60 | 60 | 40 | 30 |20, at + flowered portion of| | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |15 lbs. + cauliflower. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BRUSSELS SPROUTS | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|(1½ hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + and remove core. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +PEAS | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. Add| | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 to + 1 teaspoonful of | | | | | |15 lbs. + salt and 1 tea- | | | | | | + spoonful of sugar | | | | | | + toevery quart. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 4--Roots and Tuber Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +CARROTS, PARSNIPS, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at +SALSIFY | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + Remove skin by | | | | hr) | | + scraping after | | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BEETS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + To retain the color| |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + of beets leave 3 or| | | | hr) | | + 4 inches of the | | | | | | + stem and all the | | | | | | + root on while | | | | | | + blanching. After | | | | | | + cold dipping, the | | | | | | + skin may be removed| | | | | | + Scrape the skin. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +TURNIPS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + Wash thoroughly | |(1½ hr)|(1½ hr)| (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + with a vegetable | | | | hr) | | + brush. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +Class 5--Vegetable Combinations +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +CORN AND TOMATOES | | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + Prepare individual | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + vegetables and then| | | | | | + combine and pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN, TOMATOES AND | | | | | | +STRING BEANS | | | | | | + Corn | 3 | | | | | + Tomatoes | 1½ | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + String beans | 5 | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + +Count from time when water begins to boil (bubbles all over). This +time schedule is for both pint and quart jars. Add 30 minutes to time +of sterilizing for 2-quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +SOUPS + + +After one has learned how to can fruits and vegetables successfully, +the next thing to attempt is the canning of soups. + +Soups may be canned with or without meat. We make one variety which is +a pure vegetable soup. We use no stock or meat, and can it in its own +juice or liquor, thus using no water. + +When we wish to use it we dilute it three or four times and serve it +as a vegetable soup or, more frequently, when we have chicken bones or +any meat bones on hand, we add a can of this concentrated vegetable +mixture to the bones and make a delicious stock soup. + +I will give this recipe as I have given it to many friends, all of +whom have pronounced it excellent: + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes + 1 Head cabbage + 1 Dozen carrots + 1 White turnip + 3 Pounds string beans + 1 Pound okra + 3 Red peppers + 1 Peck spinach + 2 Pounds asparagus + 6 Small beets + 6 Ears sweet corn + +Scald the tomatoes by placing them in a wire basket and plunging them +into boiling water for one and a half minutes. Cold-dip them +immediately. After removing the core and stem end of the tomato, the +skin slips right off. Save all the tomato juice. Cut the tomatoes into +quarters. Put into a large pail or bucket with the juice. Blanch the +cabbage, carrots, turnip, string beans, okra and sweet red peppers +five minutes. Cold-dip. Of course you blanch and cold-dip each product +separately. Cut each vegetable after it is blanched and cold-dipped +into small cubes and add to the tomatoes. + +Spinach must be carefully washed to remove all grit and sand. All +greens must be washed through several waters to cleanse them +thoroughly. + +Instead of blanching the spinach in a kettle of boiling water, as we +do the other vegetables, we steam it by placing it in a colander over +boiling water or in a regulation steamer with tightly fitting cover, +such as is used for steaming suet puddings and brown bread. If you can +with a steam-pressure canner or a pressure cooker, then steam the +spinach there. If we boiled the spinach for fifteen or twenty minutes +we would lose a quantity of the mineral salts, the very thing we aim +to get into our systems when we eat spinach, dandelion greens, Swiss +chard and other greens. After the blanching or steaming comes the cold +dip. + +There is something about blanching asparagus, either for soups or when +canned alone, that is worth knowing. Instead of blanching the whole +stalk of asparagus for the same length of time, we use a little +discretion, giving the tougher, harder ends a full four minutes' +blanching, but allowing the tender tip ends only two minutes. You are +possibly wondering how that is done. + +Tie the asparagus stalks in bunches and put the bunches with all the +tips standing one way on a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth or snap +rubber bands round it, and then stand the asparagus in boiling water +in an upright position for two minutes; next lay the asparagus +lengthwise in the blanching water for another two minutes, and you +have accomplished your purpose. You have given the tougher parts two +minutes' more blanching than the tender parts. Use a deep enough +kettle so the asparagus will be completely covered when laid +lengthwise. After the blanching, cold-dip the asparagus. + +Wash the beets. Leave two inches of the top and all the tail on the +beets while blanching. Blanch for five minutes, then cold-dip. Next +scrape off the skin, top and tail. The tops can be put right into the +soup too. Any surplus tops can be steamed with the spinach and can be +treated similarly. + +Blanch corn on the cob five minutes. Cold-dip. Cut the corn from the +cob, cutting from tip to butt end. Add the corn to the other +vegetables. Add no water. Pack the mixed vegetables into clean glass +jars; add one level teaspoonful of salt to every jar; partially seal; +cook one hour and a half in wash-boiler or other homemade outfit. At +the end of that period remove jars from canner, seal tight, and the +work is done. + +Of course you are interested in the cost of this soup. Most of the +ingredients came right from our garden. We had to buy the okra and the +red peppers, but I figured everything just as if I had to buy it from +the market; and on this basis, the cost of our soup would have been +only seven and a half cents a can. We canned it in tin, using size +Number Two, which is the same as pint size in glass jars. + +Another vegetable soup without stock, dried beans and peas being used, +is made as follows: + +Soak six pounds of Lima beans and four pounds of dry peas over night. +Boil each thirty minutes. Blanch sixteen pounds of carrots, six pounds +of cabbage, three pounds of celery, six pounds of turnips, four pounds +of okra, one pound of onions, and four pounds of parsley for three +minutes and dip in cold water quickly. Prepare the vegetables and chop +into small cubes. Chop the onions and celery extra fine. Mix all of +them thoroughly and season to taste. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. +Fill with boiling water. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; sixty minutes if using water-seal outfit or +five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure +cooker. + +In many homes cream of tomato soup is the favorite. To make this soup +the housewife uses a tomato pulp and combines it with milk and +seasonings. You can can a large number of jars of this pulp and have +it ready for the cream soup. To make and can this pulp follow these +directions: + +Tomato Pulp. Place the tomatoes in a wire basket or piece of +cheesecloth and plunge into boiling water for one and a half minutes. +Plunge into cold water. Remove the skins and cores. Place the tomatoes +in a kettle and boil thirty minutes. Pass the tomato pulp through a +sieve. Pack in glass jars while hot and add a level teaspoonful of +salt per quart. Partially seal glass jars. Sterilize twenty minutes if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighteen +minutes if using water-seal, or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +fifteen minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soup Stock. To make the soup stock which is the foundation of all +the stock soups, use this recipe: + +Secure twenty-five pounds of beef hocks, joints and bones containing +marrow. Strip off the fat and meat and crack bones with hatchet or +cleaver. Put the broken bones in a thin cloth sack and place this in a +large kettle containing five gallons of cold water. Simmer--do not +boil--for six or seven hours. Do not salt while simmering. Skim off +all fat. This should make about five gallons of stock. Pack hot in +glass jars, bottles or enameled or lacquered tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize forty minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; thirty minutes if +using water-seal or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; twenty-five +minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soups made with soup stock are many and varied. One can utilize the +things at hand and change the distinctive flavor from year to year. I +will give you a few good specimen recipes which if followed will give +good results: + +Vegetable Soup. Soak a quarter pound dried Lima beans and one pound +unpolished rice for twelve hours. Cook a half pound pearl barley for +two hours. Blanch one pound carrots, one pound onions, one medium-size +potato and one red pepper for three minutes and cold-dip. Prepare the +vegetables and cut into small cubes. Mix thoroughly Lima beans, rice, +barley, carrots, onions, potato and red pepper. Fill glass jars or the +enameled tin cans three-fourths full of the above mixture of +vegetables and cereals. Make a smooth paste of a half pound of wheat +flour and blend in five gallons soup stock. Boil three minutes and add +four ounces salt. Pour this stock over vegetables and fill cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety +minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using a water-seal or five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Pea Soup. Soak eight pounds of dried peas over night. Cook +until soft. Mash fine. Add the mashed peas to five gallons of soup +stock and bring to boil. Pass the boiling liquid through a fine sieve. +Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour and add paste, ten ounces of +sugar and three ounces of salt to the soup stock. Cook until soup +begins to thicken. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighty minutes if +using water-seal outfit; seventy minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Potato Soup. Boil one and a half pounds of potatoes, sliced +thin, and five gallons of soup stock for ten minutes. Add three ounces +of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper and a half pound of butter +and boil slowly for five minutes. Make three tablespoonfuls of flour +into smooth paste and add to the above. Cook three minutes and pack in +glass jars or tin cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety minutes if using a hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a +water-seal outfit; sixty-five minutes if using a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using a pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Bean Soup. Soak three pounds of dried beans twelve hours in cold +water. Cut two pounds of ham into quarter-inch cubes and place in a +small sack. Place beans, ham and four gallons of water in kettle and +boil slowly until the beans are very soft. Remove the ham and beans +from the liquor and mash the beans fine. Return ham and mashed beans +to the liquor, add five gallons of soup stock and seasoning, and bring +to boil. Pack into jars or cans while hot. Partially seal jars. Cap +and tip tin cans. Process two hours if using hot-water-bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if using water-seal outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; sixty +minutes if using pressure cooker. + +Okra Soup. Slice eight pounds okra into thin slices the round way. +Blanch ten minutes and cold-dip. Boil one and a half pounds rice for +twenty-five minutes. Mix okra and rice and fill cans or jars half +full. To five gallons soup stock add five ounces salt, a quarter +teaspoonful of coriander seed and a quarter teaspoonful of powdered +cloves, and bring to boil. Fill remaining portion of jars or cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process two hours if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes +if using water-seal outfit; seventy-five minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; sixty minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Chicken-Soup Stock. Place thirty pounds chicken in ten gallons of +cold water and simmer for five hours. Remove meat and bones, then +strain. Add sufficient water to make ten gallons of stock. Fill glass +jars or tin cans with hot stock. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. This stock is used to make soup where the term +"chicken-soup stock" is used. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Broth With Rice. For each gallon of soup stock use twelve +ounces of rice. Boil rice thirty minutes. Fill jars or tin cans +two-thirds full of rice and the remainder with soup stock. Partially +seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Gumbo. Cut two pounds ham into small cubes and boil thirty +minutes. Mince three pounds chicken and chop half a pound of onions +fine. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour. Add above to five +gallons of chicken-soup stock. Then add a half pound butter and a +quarter pound salt and boil ten minutes. Next add three ounces +powdered okra mixed with one pint water. Pack into glass jars or tin +cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. +Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using water-seal +outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + + +TOMATO ACID CHECKS BACTERIA + +Some women who have canned soup tell me it spoiled or tasted "sourish +and smelled sourish too." This is what we call "flat sour." It may +happen to any vegetable you can, as well as to the soups. "Flat sour" +affects peas, beans, asparagus and corn more than other vegetables. If +the vegetables have been picked for some time and the bacteria have +had a chance "to work," and you are not exceedingly careful about your +canning, you may develop "flat sour" in the soup. If you let one +little spore of this bacteria survive all is lost. Its moist growing +place is favorable to development, particularly if not much acid is +present. One little spore left in a jar will multiply in twenty hours +to some twenty millions of bacteria. This twenty million can stand on +the point of a needle, so a can could acquire quite a large population +in a short time. Bacteria do not like acids, so it is always a good +idea to have tomatoes in your soup mixture, and get the tomatoes into +the stone crock early in the game. The tomato acid will safeguard the +other vegetables which lack acid. + +If you are careless about the blanching and cold-dipping--that is, not +doing these full time--if you work too slowly in getting the products +into jars and then let the full jars stand in the warm atmosphere, you +are pretty sure to develop "flat sour." + +Place each jar in the canner as it is packed. The first jars in will +not be affected by the extra cooking. Have the water just below the +boiling point as you put in each jar. When you have the canner full +bring the water to the boiling point as quickly as possible and begin +to count cooking or sterilizing time from the moment it does boil. + +Some women make the mistake at the end of the cooking period of +letting the jars remain in the boiling water, standing on the false +bottom of the canner until they are cool enough to handle with no +danger of burning the hands. This slow method of cooling not only +tends to create "flat sour," but it is apt to result in cloudy-looking +jars and in mushy vegetables. + +For this reason you should have in your equipment a lifter with which +you can lift out the hot jars without the hands touching them. If you +use a rack with wire handles this answers the same purpose. + +This "flat sour," which is not at all dangerous from the standpoint of +health, must not be confused with the botulinus bacteria, which is an +entirely different thing. + +"Flat sour," perfectly harmless, appears often with inexperienced +canners. Botulinus, harmful, appears rarely. You need not be at all +alarmed about eating either "flat sour" or botulinus, because the odor +from spoiled goods is so distasteful--it really resembles rancid +cheese--that you would never get a spoon of it to your mouth. + +If you are debating whether this jar or that jar of soup or vegetables +is spoiled, do not _taste_ the contents of the jar. _Smell_ it. +Tasting might poison you if you happened on the botulinus bacteria, +which is so rare it need alarm no one; whereas smelling is perfectly +safe. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR SOUPS + + +GRAY SOUP WITHOUT STOCK + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes Scald 1½ Remove core and stem end. + 1 Head cabbage 5} + 1 Dozen carrots 5} + 1 White turnip 5} Cut into cubes after blanching + 2 Pounds string beans 5} + 1 Pound okra 5} + 3 Red peppers 5} + + 1 Peck spinach Steam 15 minutes or until + thoroughly wilted. + 2 Pounds asparagus 4 Cut into small pieces after + blanching. + 6 Small beets 5 Cut into slices after blanching. + 6 Ears sweet corn 5 Cut from cob after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT STOCK, USING DRY LEGUMES + + 6 Pounds dried Lima beans} { Soak over night, then boil + 4 Pounds dried peas } { for one half hour. + 16 Pounds carrots 3} + 6 Pounds cabbage 3} Cut into small cubes after + 3 Pounds celery 3} blanching. + 6 Pounds turnips 3} + 4 Pounds okra 3 Cut into slices after blanching. + 1 Pound onions 3 Chop fine after blanching. + 4 Pounds parsley 3 Cut into pieces after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Stock Soups) + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + 25 Pounds beef hocks, + joints and bones Simmer for 6 or 7 hours. + 5 Gallons water Should make 5 Gallons + stock. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 40. + In condensed steam outfit, 40. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 30. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 30. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 25. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITH STOCK + + ¼ Pounds dried Lima beans Soak 12 hours. + 1 Pound rice Soak 12 hours. + ¼ Pound pearl barley Cook 2 hours. + 1 Pounds carrots 3} + 1 Pounds onions 3} Cut into small cubes after + 1 Potato 3} blanching. + 1 Red Pepper 3} + ½ Pound flour } { Make paste of flour and soup stock. + 5 Gallons soup stock } { Boil 3 minutes and add salt + 4 Ounces salt } { Pour over vegetables and fill cans. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF PEA SOUP + + 8 Pounds dried peas { Soak over-night and cook until soft. + { Mash peas fine. + 5 Gallons soup stock Add stock and boil. Put through sieve. + ½ Pound flour } { Make paste of flour, sugar and salt + 10 Ounces sugar } { and add to stock. Cook until thick. + 3 Ounces salt } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 80. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 70. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF POTATO SOUP + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 1½ Pounds potatoes } { Boil potatoes and stock + sliced thin } { 10 minutes. Add salt, + 5 Gallons soup stock } { pepper, butter and boil + 3 Ounces salt } { 5 minutes. Make flour + ¼ Teaspoonful pepper } { into paste and add. + ½ Pound butter } { Cook 3 minutes and can. + 3 Tablespoonfuls flour } + Boil potatoes and stock } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 65. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +BEAN SOUP + + 3 Pounds dried beans Soak 12 hours. + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into ¼ inch cubes. + 4 Gallons water } { Boil beans, ham and water + 5 Gallons soup stock } { until beans are soft. + Salt } { Mash beans fine. Add + { stock and salt. Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 120. + In condensed steam outfit, 120. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 60. + + +CHICKEN SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Chicken Soups) + + 30 Pounds chicken } + 10 Gallons cold water. } + Should make 10 gallons } Simmer 5 hours. Can. + stock when finished } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CHICKEN GUMBO + + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into small cubes + and boil 30 minutes. + 3 Pounds chicken Mince chicken. + ½ Pound onions Chop onions. + ½ Pound flour Make paste of flour. + 5 Gallons chicken soup + stock Add all this to soup stock. + ½ Pound butter } + ¼ Pound salt } { Add butter and salt. Boil + 3 Ounces powdered okra } { 10 minutes. Then add + mixed with pint of } { okra mixed with water. + water } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + +For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly +acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is just a +little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or overripe +fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. This +fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. Such +fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin and +are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits. + +The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of +pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, +though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other +marmalades. + +Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be made +into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and lemons to +them while cooking. + +So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is whether or +not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed over jelly +that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn the simple +test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains pectin or not is +a very easy matter. + +Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol--90 to 95 per cent.--and add +to it one tablespoonful of _cooked_ juice that has been cooled. The +effect of the alcohol is to bring together the pectin in a jelly-like +mass. If a large quantity of pectin is present it will appear in one +mass or clot which may be gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I +said _cooked_ juice. It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not +found in the juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the +cooked juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice. + +There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, raw +grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin. + +This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but it also +gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to juice. If +three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous mass or clot +this indicates that you should use three-fourths as much sugar as +juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less sugar. If the +pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin to make the +jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for flavoring ice cream +or some form of cooking. + +By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the jelly +texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be better. + +After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by washing, +stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an acid-proof +kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to prevent +burning--about one cup of water to every four or five quarts of fruit. +The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so forth. With less +juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough water to cover, or +follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. Use the cores, skins and +seeds; these improve the flavor and color of the jelly. + +Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered kettle, +stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When the simmering +point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked wooden masher. +When the fruit is tender or has a transparent appearance, it is ready +to strain. + +The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a large +mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie opposite +corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a flannel or +felt bag for straining the juice. + +What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When this +Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty +minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so many +housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do this, +empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving kettle, +cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then cover, bring +slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice that drips out +is called Extraction Two. + +The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out whether +there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin is present, +you can repeat the operation and get Extraction Three. + +Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you can +get as many as five extractions. + +You may say, "Why bother with extractions--why not squeeze the juice +and be done with it?" You will get clearer, better-flavored and more +glasses of jelly if you will make the extractions than if you squeeze +the jelly bag. + +I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but usually +combine Extraction Two and Three. + +The next step in jelly making is vitally important--that is, how much +sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is where many +housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the same proportion +of sugar to all juices. + +To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of sugar +must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough or +unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must be +used. + +Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in pectin +that they require equal amounts of sugar and juice--that is, to every +cup of extracted currant and grape juice we add one cup of sugar. + +Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup of +sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water in +the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of +juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples. + +It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large amount +of water is added than from the juicy fruits. + +I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the fruit +juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the boiling, +in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should the sugar be +hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the sugar in the +middle of the jelly-making process than at the beginning or the end. +Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, so as to lose as little +sugar as possible. + +If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and thus +the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it in a +granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, and stir +occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it. + +After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as quickly +as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent boiling. A +steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will produce good +results. + +Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from eight +to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or five +minutes. + +Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty +minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen minutes. + +The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking +thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. It +is the one sure, reliable test. + +The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you want a +very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it +immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees. + +If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour the +boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held horizontally. +If the sirup is done two drops will break simultaneously from the side +of the spoon. + +Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw a path +through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and the juice +does not run together, the jellying point has been reached. + +When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from the +fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized +glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to +prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full. + +Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at one +time. If new at the game make only four, because there is danger of +the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be removed. + +When the jellies are well set cover them with _hot_, not merely +melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs that may +fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the clean tin or +aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool place after proper +labeling. + + +STEPS IN JELLY MAKING + +1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and +contains a large amount of pectin. + +2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth. + +3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash +berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added if +necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small pieces; add +half as much water as fruit. + +4. Pour into dampened bag. + +5. Drain through closely woven bag. + +6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of sugar +to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of pectin, the +fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different fruits. To +make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold cooked fruit +juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake gently. Allow to stand +one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a lump add +three-fourths as much sugar as juice in making jelly. If the +precipitate--pectin--is not held together in a lump or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, add less sugar in +proportion to juice. If less than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to +make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and +so forth. + +7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook. + +8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or midway +in the process. + +9. Stir until sugar is dissolved. + +10. Cook rapidly, but not hard. + +11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a clean +spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from it. If +done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of spoon. Some +prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of spoon. Better still, +use thermometer. + +12. Remove from fire and skim. + +13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses. + +14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a little +coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily. + +15. Cover, label and store. + +No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter into +consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the amount of +water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of sugar to juice; +the more sugar used, the less time needed. + + +JAMS AND BUTTERS + +Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies. + +1. Carefully wash berries and fruits. + +2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not +convenient, use measuring cup. + +3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces. + +4. Add enough water to prevent sticking. + +5. Stir to keep from burning. + +6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken. + +7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part fruit. +That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a pound of +sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup of sugar. + +8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently. + +9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. When a +little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is thick +enough. + +10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or crystallized +ginger can be added if desired. + +11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of the +top. + +12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and store. + +Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made much as +are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and grapefruit +marmalades. + +Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and raisins +are often added to conserves. + +Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least +three-fourths of the weight of the fruit. + +If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or other wax +tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the cold-pack method +of canning. You may have containers with screw or bail tops which you +wish to use in this way. The following is one recipe showing how to +proceed. + +Cherry Preserves. Place one gallon of water in a kettle and add ten +pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen minutes. Add +twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until product is boiling at +a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in shallow pans. Pack into +glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip if +using enameled tin cans. If using a hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize +twenty minutes; if using a water-seal outfit, a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit or a pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen +minutes. Remove jars. Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the +joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching and store. When +using pressure-cooker outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during +period of sterilization. + +Fruit Juices. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and delicious drink +and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries and other small +fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a cloth sack, heated +for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs freely, and allowed to +drip. + +Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the +sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of the +bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 degrees, or +until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the cooker, and keep +at this temperature one hour and a half to two hours; or heat to 200 +degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise to the top of the water, +and hold at this temperature for thirty minutes. The hot water comes +up to the neck of the bottle. Cork without removing the cotton. If +canned in jars close the jar partly, and seal tight after cooking. + +Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a higher +temperature injures the flavor. + +Strawberry Preserves. 1. Add thirty-five ounces of sugar to one-half +pint of water; bring to a boil and skim. + +With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively +without floating and no sirup will be left over. + +To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds of +washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it +registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical thermometer. +If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is very +heavy--about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum. + +Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of the +hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as possible. +Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not fasten tightly. + +Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if possible. +Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the boiling water +for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least twenty-five +minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the conclusion of the +operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap to make sure that +the seal is absolutely tight. + +Recipe Number 2. The following method is preferred by some because +it leaves more of the natural color in the preserves: + +To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add +twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour +juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook to +222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack and +sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for all +other berries. + +When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the table, +they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick sirup +which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a cooling +summer drink. + +Strawberries--Sun Preserves. Select firm ripe berries; hull and +rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a single layer; sprinkle +sugar over them. Pour over them a thick sirup made of one quart of +water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled until very thick. + +Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them to +stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly glasses +and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin cans. Put +the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or seal if +using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time given below +for the particular type of outfit used: + + MINUTES + Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial 20 + Water seal, 214 degrees 15 + Steam pressure 10 + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, and test +the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent bleaching. + +When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on preserves, +remember to keep the valve open during the sterilizing. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + +Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a fine +flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter apples are +best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly in the spring, +add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple juice. + +Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple. + +Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious juices and +shrubs for summer beverages. + +The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 minutes. + +Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are rubbed +through a sieve. + +Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good +combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and strawberries. + +Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, pear and +pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin. + +One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious jelly; +currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 to July +3. + +Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days. + +Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too much +sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are satisfactory. + +If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than do +green-as-grass gooseberries. + +Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to test +for pectin before completing the process, to save time and effort. + +Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for conserves. + +An underripe, acid plum is best. + +Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly. + +Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit +being used for preserving. + +Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a rain, for +they will have absorbed so much water as to make it difficult, without +excessive boiling, to get the juice to "jell." + +Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. It +will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an otherwise +expensive jam "go a long way." + +Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized in +many ways. + +Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges. + +Lemon Marmalade. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are sliced, put in +kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 hours; then boil 2 +hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour longer. + +Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are +usually combined with grapefruit. + +All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh and not +overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if made from +fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are +still green. + +CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + + + KIND OF FRUIT|CHARACTER OF| HOW TO | AMOUNT OF | AMOUNT OF + | FRUIT | PREPARE |WATER NEEDED| SUGAR NEEDED + | | |FOR COOKING | FOR JELLYING + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + APPLES, SOUR | Excellent | Wash, |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly |discard any | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | unsound | as fruit | cupful of + | | portions, | | juice + | | cut into | | + | | small | | + | | pieces. | | + | | Include | | + | | | | + APRICOTS |Not suitable|Leave a few |For jam use | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | stones in |just enough | sugar to 1 + | making. |for flavor. | water to | cupful of + | Excellent | | keep from | apricots for + | for jam. | | burning | jam + | | | | + BLACKBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | | quarts of | cupful of + | | | berries | juice + | | | | + BLUEBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + |making; make| | quarts of | cupful of + | a sweet | | berries | juice + | jelly | | | + | | | | + CRANBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as berries | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CHERRIES |Pectin must | Pit the |For jam, use| ¾ cupful of + |be added for|cherries for|just enough | sugar to 1 + |jelly making| jam | water to | cupful of + | | | keep from | cherries for + | | | burning | jam + | | | | + CRAB APPLES | Excellent | Same as |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly | apples | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as apples | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, RED| Excellent | Do not |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |remove stems| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | for jelly | quarts of | cupful of + | | | currants | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, | Better for |Remove stems|Enough water| ¾ cupful of + BLACK | jam | |to keep from| sugar to 1 + | | | sticking | cupful of + | | | | currants + | | | | + GRAPES, | Excellent |Wash, do not|1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + UNRIPE | for jelly | stem; use | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | stems | quarts of | cupful of + | | | grapes | juice + | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES | Excellent | "Head and |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |tail," using| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | scissors | quarts of | cupful of + | | |gooseberries| juice + | | | | + PEACHES |Pectin must | Peaches, |Just enough | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| apples and | water to | sugar to 1 + |jelly making|raisins make| keep from | cupful of + | |a delicious | burning | juice + | | conserve | | + | | | | + PINEAPPLES |Pectin must | Prepare as | For jams, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| for table |enough water| sugar to 1 + |jelly making| use |to keep from| cupful of + | | | burning | juice + | | | | + PLUMS, |Suitable for| Mash fruit | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of + GREENGAGE |jelly making| and remove | water for | sugar to 1 + | |stems; cook |each peck of| cupful of + | |stones with | fruit | juice + | | fruit | | + | | | | + PLUMS, DAMSON|Suitable for| Wipe and | 1 quart of | ¾ cupful of + |jelly making| pick over; | water for | sugar to 1 + | | prick | every peck | cupful of + | | several | of plums | juice + | | times with | | + | | large pin | | + | | | | + QUINCES | Excellent |Cut out the |One-half as | ¾ cupful of + | for jelly |blossom end.| much water | sugar to 1 + | making, if |Mash and cut| as quinces | cupful of + | not too |in quarters | | juice + |ripe. If so,| | | + | add crab | | | + | apple | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES | Excellent | Wash them |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |thoroughly, | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | but do not | quarts of | cupful of + | | let them | berries | juice + | |soak in the | | + | | water | | + | | | | + RHUBARB |Pectin must |Wash and cut| For jam, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| into small |half as much| sugar to 1 + | jelly | pieces | water as | cupful of + | making. | | fruit. | juice + | Better for | | | + | jam. | | | + | | | | + STRAWBERRIES |Pectin must | Wash and | For jam, | ¾ cupful of + |be added for| remove |just enough | sugar to 1 + | jelly | hulls. | water to | cupful of + | making. | | keep from | pulp. + | | | burning. | + CITRUS FRUITS| | | | + | | | | + ORANGES | Excellent | For orange | Cook in |Three-quarters + | for jelly | marmalade | water to | their weight + | making and | weigh | cover. | in sugar. + | marmalade | oranges | | + | |slice cross-| | + | | wise with | | + | |sharp knife | | + | | as thin as | | + | | possible; | | + | |remove seed.| | + | | | | + LEMONS | Excellent | For | | 8 pounds of + | for jelly |marmalade 9 | | sugar + | making and |oranges and | | + | to supply |6 lemons are| | + | pectin to | a good | | + |other fruits|combination | | + | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT | Best for | Grapefruit | |Three-quarters + | marmalades | is sliced | | their weight + | | very thin, | | in sugar. + | | seed | | + | | removed. | | + WILD FRUITS | | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES, | All | Prepare as |Just enough | 1 cupful of + BLACKBERRIES,| excellent | other | water to | sugar to 1 + BARBERRIES, | for jelly | fruits. | keep from | cupful of + GRAPES, BEACH| making. | | burning. | juice. + PLUMS. | | | | + | | | | + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + +CHAPTER VII + +MEAT + + +Canned meat adds variety to the diet in the winter-time and makes a +pleasant change from the cured and smoked meats. You put meat into +jars in the raw state and extend the sterilizing period or you can +cook the meat partially or completely and then sterilize for a shorter +period of time. Of course a reliable method of canning meat must be +used, such as the cold-pack process, where the sterilizing is done in +the tin or jar in either boiling water or steam under pressure. We +usually recommend the partial cooking, roasting or boiling of the meat +before canning especially for beginners. If you are a beginner in the +business of cold-pack canning then by all means cook the meat before +putting it in cans. If you have canned peas, beans and corn +successfully for years then you are ready for all kinds of raw meat +canning. + +To save criticism of the cold-pack method of canning meat and to guard +against any danger from eating poorly prepared and improperly +sterilized meat we do not urge beginners to experiment with meat, +although the meat can be safely canned by any one whether new at the +canning game or a veteran in it if directions are carefully followed. +But it is the big "If" that we have to watch. + +Many farmers and farmerettes are canning meats of all kinds all over +the country and there is never a can lost. We need more meat canning +done at home and you can do it if you will practice cleanliness in all +your work and follow directions. + +The fear of getting botulinus bacteria from eating canned meat is just +a "bug-a-boo." It should be clearly understood that botulism is one of +the very rare maladies. The chances for getting it by eating canned +goods, say the experts, is rather less than the chances from dying of +lockjaw every time you scratch your finger. To regard every can as a +source of botulism is worse than regarding every dog as a source of +hydrophobia. Moreover, for the very timid, there is the comforting +certainty that the exceedingly slight danger is completely eliminated +by re-cooking the canned food for a short time before eating it. + +There are always a few cases of illness traceable to bad food, not +only to canned food but to spoiled meats, fish, bad milk, oysters and +a number of things. There are also cases of injury and death by street +accidents, but we do not for that reason stop using the streets. If +you put good meat into the can and do your canning right then you will +have good results. Never put into a can meat that is about ready to +spoil, thinking thereby to "save it." + +If you want to be absolutely sure, even if the jar of meat seems +perfectly fresh when it is opened, you can re-cook the meat, thus +insuring yourself against any possibility of botulinus poisoning. So +you see, there is nothing at all alarming about that frightful +sounding word "botulinus." Using fresh products, doing the canning +properly and reheating before serving eliminates all danger. + +For canning meat, tin cans are in most respects superior to glass, as +they eliminate all danger of breakage, preserve the meat just as well +as glass, and by excluding the light prevent any change of color. If +you use glass jars be sure to get the best brand of jar rubbers on the +market. This is very important. + +If, as I have said, you are a beginner--cook the meat first by frying, +roasting, broiling, baking or stewing--just as you would prepare it +for immediate use. The meat is usually seasoned according to taste and +is cooked until thoroughly heated through, before putting in the cans. +Do not cook until tender as that will be too long with the additional +sterilizing. If too tender it will fall apart and be unappetizing +although perfectly good. See that nothing is wasted in the canning. If +you are canning a young steer or a calf you would go about it as +follows: + +Select the meat that you would ordinarily want. Slice the meat wanted +for steak. What is not suited for either of these can be used for +stews, or be put through the meat grinder and made into sausage meat, +formed into little cakes, fried and canned. What meat is left clinging +to all bones will be utilized when the bones are boiled for soup +stock. The sinews, the head and the feet, after being cleaned may be +used for soup stock also. + +The liver should be soaked in water, the coarse veins cut out and the +liver skinned and prepared any way that is desired before canning it +or it may be made into liver sausage. The heart can be used for +goulash. The kidneys should be soaked in salt water, split open and +the little sack removed; then they can be either stewed or fried and +then canned. The sweetbreads may be prepared in various ways and then +canned. + +The brain is soaked in water to remove the blood, and the membrane +enclosing it is removed. It can be fried or prepared in any favorite +way and then canned. The ox tail is used for soup. The tongue is +soaked in water, scrubbed, cleaned, salted, boiled, skinned and packed +in cans with some soup stock added. + +If you do not care to use the head for soup stock and if it comes from +a young animal, split it open and soak in cold water. Use a brush and +scrub thoroughly. Remove the eyes and mucous membrane of the nostrils +and then boil it. After it is boiled, remove all meat and make a mock +turtle stew or ragout. Prepare the tripe as for table use and then +can. + +After the soup stock is made and the bones are cracked for a second +cooking, the bones need not be thrown away. You can dry them, run them +through a bone crusher and either feed them to the chickens or use +them for fertilizer. In this way not a particle of the dressed animal +is wasted. + +Here are a few ways to utilize the cuts that are really "left-overs." + + +GOULASH + + 2 Pounds of meat scraps which can consist of beef, veal or pork. + 2 Ounces of any fat. + 2 Onions chopped fine. + 1 Stalk celery, cut in small pieces. + 2 Carrots. + 2 Cups tomatoes either canned or fresh. + 1 Bay leaf. + 6 Whole cloves. + 6 Peppercorns. + 1 Blade mace or a little thyme or both. + A little flour. + 1 Tablespoonful chopped parsley. + Salt and paprika to taste. + +Cut the meat into one inch squares and roll in flour. Melt the fat in +the frying pan, add the vegetables (onions, celery, carrots) and brown +lightly: add the meat and brown. Stir with a spoon or fork to prevent +burning. When browned empty into a pan. + +Put the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, mace and thyme into a +cheesecloth bag and add to the meat, add tomatoes. Cover with soup +stock or water and simmer 45 minutes if it is going to be canned. If +for immediate use, 2 hours will be necessary to thoroughly cook it. + +Remove the spices, season with salt, paprika and the chopped parsley. +You can add Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce if desired. Use only +small quantities as these sauces are very strong in their distinctive +flavor. Put hot mixture into cans and sterilize. + +If the different spices are not at hand a good goulash can be made by +using the meat, fat, onions, tomatoes, flour, salt and pepper and +omitting the rest of the recipe. + + +LIVER SAUSAGE + +Beef, veal, or hog liver. Remove the membrane and cut away the large +blood vessels. Soak in water 1 to 2 hours to draw out blood. Boil +until done. When cooled put through a food chopper or grate finely. +Take half as much boiled fat pork as liver. Divide this fat into two +portions; chop one portion into one-quarter inch cubes; pass the other +portion through the food chopper; mix all together thoroughly; add +salt, ground cloves, pepper, and a little grated onion to taste. A +little thyme and marjoram may be added to suit taste. (For a liver +weighing 1½ pounds add ¾ pounds fat pork, 3 to 4 teaspoonfuls salt, ½ +teaspoonful cloves, ½ teaspoonful pepper, 1 small onion, ¼ teaspoonful +thyme, and pinch of marjoram.) This mixture is stuffed into large +casings. (If no casings are available, make casings of clean white +muslin.) Cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 +minutes. Pack into cans, fill in with the water in which the sausages +were boiled. Sterilize. + +This liver sausage may also be made from the raw liver and raw pork, +but in that case the sterilizing is for a longer period, as the +time-table indicates. This recipe is recommended by the United States +Department of Agriculture. + + +HEAD CHEESE + +Cut a hog's head into four pieces. Remove the brains, ears, skin, +snout and eyes. Cut off the fattest parts for lard. Put the lean and +bony parts to soak over night in cold water in order to extract the +blood and dirt. When the head is cleaned put it over the fire to boil, +using water enough to cover it. Boil until the meat separates readily +from the bones. Then remove it from the fire and pick out all the +bones. Drain off the liquor, saving a part of it for future use. Chop +the meat up finely with a chopping knife. Return it to the kettle and +pour on enough of the liquor to cover the meat. Let it boil slowly for +fifteen minutes to a half-hour. Season to taste with salt and pepper +just before removing it from the fire. Bay leaves, a little ground +cloves and allspice may be added and boiled a short time in the soup. +Pack while hot in cans to within ½ inch of top. Sterilize. This head +cheese is always served cold. + + +CORNED BEEF + +After beef has been properly corned for three weeks, remove the meat +from the brine. Soak for two hours in clear water, changing water +once. Place in a wire basket and boil slowly for half an hour. Remove +from the boiling water, plunge into cold water, and remove gristle, +bone and excessive fat. Cut into small pieces and pack closely into +cans. Add no salt and proceed as in other canning. + + +CANNED PORK + +After the animal has been killed, cool quickly and keep the pork cool +for at least 24 hours. Can only lean portions, using the fat to make +lard. Place meat in a wire basket or cheesecloth and boil 30 minutes, +or roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Cut into small sections and pack +closely into cans. Add salt and proceed with remainder of process. + +Other pieces of beef and pork: Hamburg steak, sausage, venison, +squirrel, raccoon, opossum, lamb, are canned as follows: + +After cleaning, season and fry, roast, stew, or bake in oven as though +preparing for serving directly on the table. Cook until meat is about +three fourths done. Pack while hot into sanitary tin cans or glass +jars. Pour over the meat the hot liquids, gravies, dressings, etc., or +hot water. Add salt and proceed as in any other cold-pack canning. + + +HOW TO CAN POULTRY AND GAME WITH THE BONES REMOVED + +Kill bird and draw immediately; wash carefully and cool; then cut into +convenient sections. Boil until the meat can be removed from the +bones; remove from the boiling liquid and take out all bones; pack +closely into glass jars or enameled cans; fill jars with the hot +liquid after it has been concentrated one half; add 1 level +teaspoonful salt to every quart of meat for seasoning; put rubbers and +top of jars in place but not tight. If using enameled cans completely +seal. Sterilize the length of time given in the time-table on page +108 of this book. After the sterilizing remove the jars; tighten the +covers if glass was used; invert to cool and test joints. Wrap with +paper to prevent bleaching. + + +FRIED SPRING CHICKEN + +After cleaning and preparing the chickens, season and fry as though +for serving directly on the table. Cook until the meat is about +three-fourths done. If a whole spring chicken, break the neck and both +legs and fold around body of chicken. Roll up tight, tie a string +around the chicken and drop this hot, partially fried product into +sanitary tin cans or glass jars. A quart tin can (No. 3) will hold two +to four small chickens. Pour liquid from the griddle or frying pan +into the can over the chicken. Proceed, as in any other canning, with +the sealing, sterilizing and removing of the jars. Chicken fries +canned in the late fall preserve the meat at the most delicious stage +and furthermore we avoid the expense of feeding the chickens +throughout the winter. + + +HOW TO CAN COCKERELS + +When cockerels reach the point in their growth where it is no longer +profitable to feed them, and when they are wanted for home use during +the winter months they should be canned. This method of handling the +cockerel not only saves money by cutting down the feed bill, but it +places in the pantry or cellar the means of a delicious chicken dinner +at a time of the year when the price of poultry is high. + +The bird should not be fed for at least twenty-four hours before +killing. It should be killed by the approved method and picked dry. +When the feathers have been removed and the pin feathers drawn the +bird should be cooled rapidly. This rapid cooling after killing is +essential to a good flavor in canned meat. As soon as the bird has +been properly cooled it should be singed and washed carefully with a +brush. + + +CUTTING UP AND DRAWING CHICKENS + +Mr. George Farrell, a most expert canner, tells us how to go about +this job of canning chicken. + +In preparing the bird for canning, care should be taken in drawing it +so that the contents of the digestive tract do not come in contact +with the meat. + +1. Remove the tops of the wings, cutting at the first joint. + +2. Remove the wings. + +3. Remove the foot, cutting at the knee joint. + +4. Remove the leg, cutting at the hip or saddle joint. + +5. Cut the removed portion of the leg into two parts at the joint. + +6. Place the bird so the back of the head is toward the operator, cut +through the neck bone with a sharp knife but do not cut the windpipe +or gullet. + +7. With the index finger separate the gullet and windpipe from the +skin of the neck. + +8. Cut through the skin of the neck. + +9. With a pointed knife cut through the skin from the upper part of +the neck, thus separated, to the wing. + +10. Leave the head attached to the gullet and windpipe and loosen +these from the neck down as far as the crop. + +11. With a sharp pointed knife cut around the shoulder blade, pull it +out of position and break it. + +12. Find the white spots on the ribs and cut through the ribs on these +white spots. + +13. Cut back to the vent; cut around it, and loosen. + +14. Begin at the crop and remove the digestive tract from the bird, +pulling it back toward the vent. + +15. Remove the lungs and kidneys with the point of a knife. + +16. Cut off the neck close to the body. + +17. Cut through the backbone at the joint or just above the diaphragm. + +18. Remove the oil sack. + +19. Separate the breast from the backbone by cutting through on the +white spots. + +20. Cut the fillet from each side of the breastbone. + +21. Cut in sharp at the point of the breastbone, turning the knife and +cutting away the wishbone with the meat. Bend in the bones of the +breastbone. + + +PACKING CHICKEN + +Use a one quart jar. Caution: Do not pack the giblets with the meat. + +1. Have the jar hot. + +2. Pack the saddle with a thigh inside. + +3. Pack the breastbone with a thigh inside. + +4. Pack the backbone and ribs with a leg inside. + +5. Pack the legs large end downward, alongside the breastbone. + +6. Pack the wings. + +7. Pack the wishbone. + +8. Pack the fillets. + +9. Pack the neck-bone. + +10. Pour on boiling water to within one inch of the top; add a level +teaspoonful of salt; place the rubber and cap in position, partially +seal, and sterilize for the length of time given below for the +particular type of outfit used: + + Water bath, home made or commercial (pint or quart jars) 1 hour + Water seal, 214° 3 hours + 5 pounds steam-pressure 2 hours + 10 to 15 pounds steam-pressure 1 hour + +Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. Wrap +jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + +PIGEONS + +_Young_ pigeons. Dress pigeons, wash well, and roast for 30 minutes +basting frequently. Some pieces of fat bacon put over the breasts will +prevent them getting too dry. + +_Old_ pigeons. Dress, wash, and fry pigeons. + +Brown some onions in the fat with the pigeons, using a pound of onions +to a dozen birds. Cover with hot water after pigeons and onions are a +golden brown; simmer until the meat is tender and can be removed from +the bones. Add from time to time boiling water, if necessary, in order +to keep the birds covered. When tender, take meat from bones. Return +the meat to the liquor, salt to taste and pack while boiling into cans +or jars, fill with liquor to within one-half inch of top. + +All small game birds may be canned like pigeons. Blackbirds may be +treated like pigeons. They make an excellent stew. + + +PLAIN CANNING OF TENDER COTTON-TAILS OR TWICE-SKINNED JACK-RABBITS + +1. Blanch in boiling water until the meat is white. + +2. Cold dip. + +3. Pack tightly in sterilized jars. + +4. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt to quart. + +5. Adjust rubber and lid. + +6. Sterilize in hot water bath for three hours. + +7. Remove from bath and complete the seal. + +Rabbit meat thus canned, may be served in various appetizing ways. + + +RABBIT SAUSAGE + +For rabbit sausage and mince-meat only the backs and legs of the +carcass are used, discarding the sinews. + +Grind together equal parts of rabbit and fat pork (or at least ¼ fat +pork). The pork may be salt pork if all salt is omitted from the +mixture. + +To every ten pounds of the above add 6 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 +teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sage. Mix thoroughly. +Shape in flat cakes and fry till nicely browned. Pack tightly in jars, +pour over the fat in which the sausage was fried, and sterilize. + + +RABBIT MINCE-MEAT + +Rabbit mince-meat is used a great deal on the plains and large +quantities of it are canned. The mince-meat may be made by simply +substituting the rabbit meat for beef in your favorite recipe. The +following is an inexpensive recipe: + +1 Cup of rabbit meat which has been parboiled in salted water and +drained, then chopped finely. + +1 Cup chopped apple. + +½ Cup finely chopped suet. + +½ Cup seeded raisins. + +½ Cup currants. + +1 Cup molasses or syrup. + +2 Tablespoonfuls sugar. + +1 Tablespoon cider, lemon juice, fruit juice or vinegar. + +¼ Cup chopped watermelon pickles or green tomato pickles. + +1 Teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg. + +1 Teaspoon of salt. + +½ Teaspoon cloves, mace or other spice. + +Mix together all ingredients except the meat, add the meat broth and +simmer for about 1 hour. Add the meat. Pour into jars, and sterilize. +Remove and seal. + + +STEPS IN CANNING MEAT AND GAME + +For all meat, poultry or game canning the following general +instructions should be kept in mind. + +1. Sterilize the jars, caps and rubbers. + +2. Grade the meat for size. + +3. Cut up into convenient portions for cooking or canning. + +4. Sauté, fry or bake, broil or stew as desired. This step can be +omitted if you are an experienced canner. + +5. Pack in sterilized, hot jars or tin cans. + +6. Add 1 level teaspoonful salt per quart of meat for seasoning if not +already seasoned. + +7. If glass jars put on rubber and seal, not too tight. Seal tin cans. + +8. Process in boiling water or steam under pressure. + +9. Remove, completely seal the jar. + +10. Invert to cool and test the joint. + +11. Label and store. + + +If you can in tin use the enamel or lacquered cans. A slight amount of +water in the bottom of the jars of prepared meat will insure quicker +sterilization of the air remaining in the jar. Where meat has been +stewed the liquor can be poured into the jar for filling. If you use a +steam-pressure cooker outfit of course the time of cooking will be +much shorter than if you use a wash-boiler or some other homemade +outfit. If you cook in boiling water we call that the water-bath +method. + +The following data will be of interest to those who contemplate +canning meat. + +Hog on foot--weight 500. + +Liver, heart and a part of the ribs were eaten at the time of +butchering, therefore, not canned. The remainder of the ribs canned +six No. 3 cans: + +Ham 18, No. 3 cans + +Shoulder 18, No. 3 cans + +Roast 18, No. 3 cans + +Sausage 26, No. 3 cans + +Hash 4, No. 3 cans + +Gravy 5, No. 3 cans + +(which is also called stock) + +The sausage weighed 52 lbs. before it was canned, making 2 lbs. to the +can. + +There were 200 lbs. of fat for lard. After it was rendered there were +176 lbs. of lard and 20 lbs. of cracklings. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING MEAT, POULTRY AND +GAME + + [A] IF USING HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212°F + [B] IF USING WATER-SEAL OUTFIT AT 214°F + [C] IF USING STEAM PRESSURE 5 POUNDS + [D] IF USING PRESSURE COOKER 15 POUNDS + + TIME TO STERILIZE + PRODUCTS | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + PARTIALLY COOKED MEAT OF ALL KINDS + + + Roast beef | | | | + Corned beef | | | | + Sweetbreads | | | | + Tongue | | | | + Brains | | | | + Headcheese | | | | + Spareribs | 1½ hrs. | 1 hr. | 40 min. | 30 min. + Kidneys | | | | + Sausages and | | | | + other meats | | | | + Rabbits | | | | + Pigeon | | | | + Chicken | | | | + + UNCOOKED OR RAW MEAT + + Beef | | | | + Pork | 3 hrs. | 3 hrs. | 2 hrs. | 1 hr. + Veal and all | | | | + other meats | | | | + Poultry and game | | | | + + All meat stocks | | | | + with or without | 1½ hrs. | 75 min. | 1 hr. | 40 min. + vegetables and | | | | + cereals | | | | + +NOTE.--This time-table is for No. 2 and No. 3 tin cans or pint and +quart glass jars. If larger cans or jars are used more time must be +allowed for the sterilizing. If canning in tin, scratch on the can at +the time of sealing the initial of the contents. For instance--S.R. +means spareribs; G. means goulash; R.B. means roast beef. You can make +out your list and mark accordingly. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +FISH + + +People in some sections of the country are interested in canning +mountain trout and others live where there is an abundant supply of +either fresh-water fish or salt-water fish. Heretofore we have been +wasteful and lax about the fish supply. But as we have learned to can +vegetables and meats so we are going to learn to can fish. Fish is +really canned the same in every step after preparation as peas and +corn are canned. + +In order to have a good product, fish must be fresh when canned. No +time should be lost in handling the fish after being caught. +Putrefaction starts rapidly, and the fish must be handled promptly. +The sooner it is canned after being taken from lake, stream or ocean, +the better. Never attempt to can any fish that is stale. + + +PREPARATION OF FISH FOR CANNING + +As soon as fish are caught it is advisable to kill them with a knife +and allow the blood to run out. Scale fish. This is easily done if the +fish is dipped in boiling water. For canning, most varieties of fish +need not be skinned. If the fish is very large and coarse, the large +back fin may be cut out and the backbone removed, but with most +varieties this is unnecessary. Cut off the head and tail, being +careful to leave no more meat than necessary on the parts removed. +Remove the entrails and the dark membrane that in some fish (e.g., +mullets) covers the abdominal cavity. Thoroughly clean the inside. The +head may be cleaned and used for fish chowder. + +If you wish to be sure that all blood is drawn out before canning, +place the fish in a brine made of one ounce of salt to one quart of +water. Allow the fish to soak from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to +the thickness of the fish. Never use this brine but once. If the meat +of the fish is very soft or loose, it may be hardened by soaking in a +brine (strong enough to float an Irish potato) for from 15 minutes to +an hour, depending on the thickness of the pieces and the softness of +the flesh. + + +CANNING THE FISH + +1. Remove the fish from the brine where it has been placed in order to +draw out all the blood and to harden the texture of the fish. + +2. Drain well. + +3. Cut into can lengths. + +4. Place fish in a piece of cheesecloth or in a wire basket and blanch +in _boiling water_ from three to five minutes. Three minutes for the +soft flesh fish, such as suckers, crappies, whitefish. Fish with a +firmer flesh, as pike, muskalonge and sunfish require 5 minutes +blanching. The blanching removes the strong fish flavor and cleans the +outside of the fish. + +5. Cold-dip the fish by plunging into cold water immediately. This +makes the flesh firm. + +6. Pack in hot jars or cans to within ½ inch from top. Add 1 +teaspoonful salt per quart. Put on a good rubber and partially seal +the jar, completely seal tin cans. + +7. Place jars or cans in canner and process in _boiling_ water for +three hours. Three hours sterilization will insure the keeping of all +varieties of fish, providing fresh products are used and the blanching +and other work is carefully done. If canning with a steam-pressure +canner or a pressure cooker sterilize for one hour and a half under 10 +to 15 lbs. pressure. + +8. At the end of the sterilizing period cool the jars quickly after +sealing completely. The tin cans may be cooled by immersing them in +cold water. + +9. Store for future use. + + +SOFTENING OF BONES IN FISH + +This can be done satisfactorily under pressure. The bones of fish are +composed of large quantities of harmless lime, bound by a matrix of +collagen, which is insoluble under ordinary conditions. When subjected +to a high temperature under pressure this collagen is converted into +gelatin and dissolved, leaving the bones soft and friable and even +edible. Bony fish, such as herring and shad, which are too small to +use otherwise are greatly improved when subjected to steam under +pressure. + +The bones in herring are softened in 37 minutes at a temperature of +240 degrees; shad in 1 hour; flounder 1 hour. Other fish are fully +cooked and the bones softened in times approximately proportionate to +the size of the bones. + +The following table was made after many experiments and gives the time +required to soften the bones in many common species of fish. + +The term "softening" means the point in cooking when the small bones, +ribs, etc., are soft, but when the large vertebrae are not yet +sufficiently soft to be consumed along with the meat. In some of the +larger fishes where the large bones could scarcely be eaten, even if +they were softened, it would appear to be a waste of time and fuel to +carry them to a point of complete cooking, and in such cases it ought +to be sufficient to soften the small bones and sterilize the contents +of the can. For such a purpose, the "softening" rather than the "soft" +point, may be used. + +The time periods are measured from the point when the given pressure +and temperature are reached (at the top of the cooker) to the time +when the heat is shut off. The heating-up and cooling-off period of +time are therefore not included. The fish were salted, but no water +was added. + +Samples of fish canned during the course of these experiments were +kept six weeks at room temperature (about 68° F.) and were then +incubated at 98° F. for 48 hrs. All were sterile. + +TIME REQUIRED TO SOFTEN THE BONES OF +VARIOUS SPECIES OF FISH IN QUART JARS +OR NO. 3 TIN CANS, 10 LBS. PRESSURE, +240° F. + + |WEIGHT |SOFTENING|SOFT + |(LBS.) |(MINUTES)|(MINUTES) + | | | + BLACK BASS | | | + | | | + Large | 5-6 | 100 | 120 + Small | ¾ to 1 | 100 | 110 + | | | + BLUEFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 6-9 | 90 | 100 + Small | 1-2 | 80 | 90 + | | | + BUTTERFISH | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-½ | 60 | 80 + | | | + CATFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 1½-2 | 70 | 80 + Small | ¾ | 60 | 70 + | | | + CERO | | | + | | | + Average | 10-13 | 80 | 90 + | | | + COD | | | + | | | + Large | 6-16 | 80 | 90 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + FLOUNDER | | | + | | | + Large | 1-1¾ | 70 | 80 + Small | ½-1 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HADDOCK | | | + | | | + Large | 3-5 | 60 | 70 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HALIBUT | | | + | | | + Average | 50-90 | 70 | 80 + | | | + HICKORY SHAD | | | + | | | + Average |1½-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + KINGFISH | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1 | 60 | 70 + | | | + LEMON SOLE | | | + | | | + Large | 2½-3½ | 80 | 90 + Small | ¾-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL | | | + | | | + Average | ¾-1½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL, SPANISH | | | + | | | + Average | 1½-2½ | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, WHITE | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-¾ | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, YELLOW | | | + | | | + Average | ¼-¾ | 90 | 100 + | | | + POLLACK | | | + | | | + Average | 5-7½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + SALMON | | | + | | | + Average | 13-19 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SEA BASS | | | + | | | + Average | 1-1½ | 60 | 70 + | | | + SQUETEAGUE | | | + | | | + Large | 2½-4 | 80 | 90 + Small | ¾-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SMELTS | | | + | | | + Large, per lb. | 5-7 | 60 | 70 + Small, per lb. | 15-20 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SNAPPER, RED | | | + | | | + Large | 10-15 | 110 | 120 + Small | 5-6 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SUCKER | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1½ | 80 | 90 + | | | + TILEFISH | | | + | | | + Average | 6-12 | 90 | 100 + | | | + WHITING | | | + | | | + Average | ½-1 | 50 | 60 + + +FRIED FISH + +1. Clean the fish and remove entrails. Split along the back and remove +backbone. + +2. Place in brine strong enough to float an Irish potato. Allow fish +to remain in this brine from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to the +thickness of the flesh. This draws out the blood and hardens the meat. + +3. Draw, wipe dry. + +4. Cut in pieces that can go through jar or can openings. + +5. Roll in cornmeal or other flour, dip into beaten egg and roll in +flour again. + +6. Then put into frying basket and fry in deep fat until nicely +browned, or it can be sautéd in bacon or other fat until well browned. + +7. Drain well by placing pieces on coarse paper to absorb excessive +fat. + +8. Pack into hot jars or enameled tin cans. + +9. Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Add no liquid. + +10. Partially seal glass jars. Completely seal tin cans. + +11. Process 3 hours in hot water bath outfit. Process 1½ hours in +steam pressure (10 to 15 lbs. pressure). + +12. Remove from canner. Seal glass jars. Cool quickly as possible. + + +BAKED FISH + +Prepare and bake fish same as for table use until half done. Pack in +hot jars, add salt and sterilize three hours in hot-water-bath outfit +or 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker, 10 to 15 lbs. +pressure. + + +ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MISCELLANEOUS FISH + +Rub the fish inside and out with a mixture made as follows: to 50 +pounds fish, mix 2½ pounds salt, 2½ pounds brown sugar and 2½ ounces +saltpeter. Let the fish stand in a cool place for 48 to 60 hours with +the mixture on, then wash and drain. Fill into glass jars or enamel +lined tin cans and add the following sauce until cans are nearly +filled: ¼ pound whole black pepper, 1½ pounds salt, 1 pound of onions +chopped fine, ½ ounce bay leaves, ¼ pound whole cloves, 2 quarts cider +vinegar and 25 quarts of water. Soak the pepper, cloves and bay leaves +for 48 hours in the vinegar. Put the water, salt and onions in a +kettle. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes, then add the vinegar and +spices. Let boil for one minute. Strain and it is ready for use. + +Sterilize for 3 hours in hot-water-bath outfit. + +Sterilize for 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker (10 to 15 +lbs. pressure). + + +CANNED FISH IN OIL + +Rub fish with salt, brown sugar and saltpeter as above directed. Wash +and dry thoroughly in the sun. Spread on wire screens and dip in oil +heated to a temperature of 300 degrees. Use a strap handle plunge +thermometer to determine heat of oil. Cottonseed oil may be used for +this purpose, although olive oil is best. As soon as the fish are +cool enough to handle, pack tightly in cans, filling up with the hot +oil. + +Sterilize 3 hours in hot-water-bath-outfit; 1½ hours in steam pressure +or pressure cooker (10 to 15 lbs.). + + +CANNED FISH IN TOMATO SAUCE + +Handle same as specified under "Another Formula for Miscellaneous +Fish," except pour in the following sauce instead of pepper, cloves, +onions, etc.: Ten gallons of tomato pulp (mashed tomatoes and juice +with cores, seeds and skins removed); 1 gallon cider vinegar, 1 pint +Worcestershire sauce; 2½ pounds red sweet peppers; 2½ pounds sugar, 2 +cups salt, 2 pounds onions (chopped fine); 1 pound West India peppers +and 1 ounce Saigon cinnamon. The fish are processed same as "Fish in +Oil." Enamel lined cans or glass jars must be used. + + +FISH CHOWDER + +The cleaned heads of any fish, the backbones cut out of large fish +with what meat adheres to them and all other fish scraps may be used +for fish chowder. Put all these parts in cold water (to cover) and +cook until all the meat can be easily removed from the bones. Pick all +the meat from the bones, strain the fish liquor and return it with the +picked fish meat to the kettle. Add the following ingredients: To +every two pounds of fish picked from bones and the liquor in which +fish was cooked add 6 onions, diced or sliced thin; 6 potatoes, diced +or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls fat; 1 teaspoonful paprika; 2 +teaspoonfuls salt or salt to taste. + +Cook vegetables, fat and seasonings until vegetables are half done. +Pack hot in cans and sterilize same as all other fish. When the +chowder is opened, heat and add milk according to taste. + + +FISH ROE + +For canning be sure to use roe of freshly caught fish and only such +roe as is known to be good to eat. The roe of some fishes, such as the +garfish, is not eaten. + +Clean the roe by removing the shreds and strings adhering to it and +wash well in cold water, being careful not to break the roe. Soak for +2 hours in a brine made of 6 quarts of water and 6 ounces of salt. +Drain and pack in hot glass jars or enameled tin cans. Can for the +same length of time as other fish. + + +OYSTERS + +Be sure all oysters that are to be canned are absolutely fresh, have +not "soured" and contain no spoiled oysters. Oysters are opened by +hand. All oysters should be rejected that have partly open shells, as +this is a sign that the oyster is dead and consequently not fit to +eat. + +Rinse the oysters to prevent any pieces of shell or grit from getting +into the cans. Blanch 5 minutes. Cold-dip. If the canned oysters are +to be sold it is required by law to mark on each can the net weight of +solids or meat exclusive of liquids. + +There have been a number of standard grades of oysters recognized on +the Baltimore market. They are given as follows: "Standard Oysters" +(four kinds). + +No. 1 cans, containing respectively 1½, 3, 4 and 5 ounces of meat, +after being processed in the cans. + +No. 2 cans, containing respectively 3, 6, 8 and 10 ounces of meat. + +"Select" and "Extra Select" Oysters contain respectively 6 ounces and +12 ounces for No. 1 and No. 2 cans. The above are the net weights of +meats only that have been drained over a strainer with a wire bottom +of ½ inch mesh. These are the only grades that have so far been +recognized by the trade. An even balance scale, with one platform for +graduated weights and another for articles to be weighed, is used to +weigh oysters or clams. It is suggested that those who are going to +can clams or oysters find out from their prospective customers just +what requirements are as to weights and then make their pack meet the +occasion. Under no circumstances is it advisable to make any +misstatements or misbrand in any respect. + +After oysters have been packed in the can, fill with boiling brine +made of 5 quarts of water to ¼ lb. salt to within ½ inch from top of +can. Sterilize as other fish. + + +CLAMS + +If clams are received in a muddy condition, it is advisable, though +not necessary to wash them before opening. After opening, discard +broken or discolored clams. Do not can any clams unless absolutely +fresh. Blanch. Cold-dip. Weigh out the amount of solid meat, after +draining, that is to go into each can. Weigh and label just as oysters +are weighed and labeled. + +Fill can to within ½ inch from the top with boiling brine made of 5 +gallons of water and 1 pound of salt. Sterilize. + + +CLAM BROTH AND CHOWDER + +Place the clams, after being opened, in a kettle with enough cold +water to cover. Add a few stalks of celery. Boil for 10 minutes. +Season with salt, and pepper to taste and add 1 tablespoon butter to +every 50 or 60 large clams. Can. Clam chowder can be made according to +any recipe and then canned. + + +SHRIMPS + +Shrimps when first caught are a grayish white color. They are very +delicate and spoil quickly if allowed to stand for any length of time +in a warm place. There are two general methods of canning shrimp--the +"dry pack" and "wet pack." Nearly all the trade now calls for "wet +pack" because the other always has a rather offensive odor and the +meat is never so fresh and sweet of flavor as the "wet pack." Canned +shrimp is very pleasing to the taste and is preferred by many to +lobster for salads and stews. + +Wet Pack. Medium sizes are preferable as very large shrimps are apt +to be too tough and too dry. Put the shrimps into a wire scalding +basket and lower into a boiling hot salt water solution made by mixing +one pound of salt to each gallon of water. Allow the shrimps to remain +in this bath for about five minutes, then remove and drain thoroughly. + +Peel and remove viscera (entrails). The boiling and the salt will +harden the meat and make the peeling comparatively easy. Pack into +enameled tin cans or glass jars. Nos. 1 and 1½ cans are used almost +exclusively. These sizes should contain 4½ oz and 9 ounces of meat +respectively. It is unsafe to put in more meat than above directed, +for it might cake and become solid when processed. + +Add a very mild brine to within ½ inch from top of can. For the brine +use 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart of boiling water. Sterilize. + +Dry Pack. Handle same as above, except do not pour into the cans any +brine. The fish is packed in the cans and processed as follows without +the addition of any liquor. + +Drying of Shrimps. After shrimps are boiled and peeled they may be +dried. Spread on a drier of any kind and dry at a temperature of from +110°F. to 150°F. When thoroughly dry pack in dry clean glass jars or +in parchment-paper lined boxes. + + +SALMON + +Scale fish, clean and wipe dry. Do not wash. If the fish are large cut +in lengths to fill the cans and in sizes to pass through can openings +easily. Salmon is usually packed in No. 1 cans or in flat cans. Fill +cans with fish after it has been blanched 5 minutes and cold dipped. +Sterilize as other fish. + +Many salmon packers lacquer the outside of their cans to prevent +rusting. This is a very advisable point. The test for unsound salmon +is the nose. If the contents issue an offensive odor, it is unsound. +Freezing does not hurt canned salmon. + + +AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES + +The fish taught and used for packing domestic sardines belong to the +herring family and are said to be of the same species as the sardines +of France, Portugal and Spain. There are two methods generally used in +canning sardines. First, when the fish are put in a sauce such as +mustard dressing or tomato sauce, and secondly where they are packed +in oil. + + +CANNING SARDINES IN SAUCE + +The heads are cut off, the scales taken off and the fish cleaned. +Blanch 5 minutes; cold dip; drain and pack into the cans dry. Cover +with sauce, either mustard or tomato. + + +SARDINES IN OIL + +The fish are prepared in the same manner as above described but +instead of blanching them, they are put in wire baskets and immersed +in boiling peanut or cottonseed oil until tender. Olive oil might be +used, but is rather expensive. When cooked, they are drained, packed +into cans in order, and the cans filled with olive oil. It is often +advisable to salt the fish while fresh and before cooking as it +improves the flavor. + + +CRAB MEAT + +Put 5 gallons of water in a large kettle. Add ¼ lb. of baking soda to +it. When boiling vigorously throw the live crabs in it and boil +quickly for 20 minutes. Remove crabs and wash them in cold water. Pick +out all meat. Wash the meat in a brine made of 1 ounce of salt +dissolved in three quarts of water. Drain and pack in enameled No. 1 +flat cans. Sterilize. As soon as the time of sterilizing is up, plunge +the cans immediately into cold water, otherwise crab meat discolors. +For this reason, glass jars are not so well adapted to crab meat +canning as tin cans. + + +FLAKED CODFISH + +The fish are first cleaned and the entrails removed, then the fins are +cut off. The fish are then soaked for about two hours in a salt brine +to remove the blood. This brine is made with about 10 lbs. of salt to +8 gallons of water. The brine is then rinsed off and the fish are +cooked, either boiled or cooked by steam. When codfish are thoroughly +cooked, the meat will drop off of the bone in pieces, and it is very +white in color and crisp in texture. These pieces are then broken in +suitable sizes and are ready to place in the cans. The cans are filled +as full as possible, because after processing the fish will shrink +some. + + +CRAWFISH + +The best way to can crawfish is to put it up in a bouillon as follows: +Water, 2 gallons; vinegar, 1 quart; cloves, 10; carrots in slices, 6; +onions in slices, 6; cloves of garlic, 3. + +To the above should be added a good quantity of pepper to suit the +taste, a little salt and bunch of parsley and a little thyme. Boil +slowly for about an hour. Throw in the crawfish after the intestines +have been extracted; to do this take the live crawfish in your hand +and tear off the wing which is in the middle of the tail; it will pull +out at the same time a little black intestine which is very bitter. +Boil one or two minutes, never longer, put in cans and process. + +TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING FISH + + + + + [A] SCALD OR BLANCH + [B] HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT 212°F + [C] CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT 212°F + [D] WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F + [E] STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS + [F] PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PRODUCT | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] + ------------------------------------------------------------------ + Fish of all kinds |3 to 5| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|2½ hrs.|2 hrs. |1½ hrs. + | min. | | | | | + | | | | | | + Shell fish of all |3 min.| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|2½ hrs.| 2 hrs.|1½ hrs. + kinds | | | | | | + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + +If the proper sanitary requirements are provided and instructions of +the cold-pack method of canning are followed, it is entirely safe and +practical to use tin cans for all kinds of fruits, vegetables and +other food products. Food poisoning--commonly called ptomaine +poisoning--and the effects ascribed to "salts of tin" result from +improper handling and improper preparation of the product before +packing, or from allowing the product to stand in the tin after it has +been opened. The raw food products used for canning in tin must be in +sound condition, just as they must be if put into glass containers. + +It is true that canned foods may be rendered unfit for use by improper +handling of the product before packing and that decomposition may +occur after canning, owing to insufficient processing, improper +sealing or the use of leaky containers. This condition, however, is no +more likely to be encountered in foods put up in tin than in products +canned in other types of containers. You run no more danger of poison +from your own tin-canned products than from tin-canned food bought at +the store. Most canned foods if in a spoiled condition readily show +this condition by the swelling of the can or by odor or taste. Canned +foods showing such evidences of decomposition should not be used. + +Certain foods which are high in protein, such as meats, peas, beans +and fish products, may undergo decomposition without making this +condition obvious to the senses. It is essential, therefore, that the +greatest care be taken to subject such products to proper preparation +and ample processing. It should be remembered that canned foods, after +opening the containers, should be treated as perishable products and +should be handled with the same precautions that are applied when +fresh products are being used. + + +ADVANTAGES OF CANS + +Many housewives ask, "Why can in tin when we have always used glass +jars?" There are many advantages in canning in tin which we can well +consider. There is no breakage as in glass; you can handle the tin +cans as carelessly as you choose and you will not hear a snap or crack +indicating a lost jar. Furthermore, tin cans are easier to handle not +only in canning but in storing. + +The expense each year of new tin covers or new tin cans is no more +than the purchase of new rubbers and the replacement of broken glass +jars. Furthermore, one big advantage of tin over glass is that tin +cans can be cooled quickly by plunging them into cold water +immediately upon removal from the canner, and thus the cooking is +stopped at the proper moment. The product is consequently better in +form and flavor than when the cooking is prolonged, as it must be in +glass jars. Many women like the large openings of cans because they +can make better packs than when using narrow-necked jars. + +If you do not care to bother with the soldering you can purchase a +safe and simple device that will do the work for you. This device is +called a tin-can sealer. With a sealer no soldering is necessary. +Even an inexperienced person, by following directions carefully, can +seal a can as well as an experienced one. The sealed cans look exactly +like those purchased at the store. Two or three cans a minute can be +sealed with this device. + +This is the way to operate a can sealer: Prepare the fruits and +vegetables as for any canning, following directions formerly given for +cold-pack canning. + +After the fruits or vegetables have been properly prepared, blanched +and cold-dipped if necessary, place them in sanitary, solderless cans. +Put water or sirup on, according to directions. Put the top on the can +and place the can in the sealer. + +Raise the can into the chunk by swinging the raising lever at the +bottom of the machine against the frame. Turn the crank, rapidly at +first, with the right hand, and at the same time push the seaming-roll +lever very slowly with the left hand until it will go no farther. This +is one of the most important steps in the use of the machine. Continue +to give the crank several turns after the seaming-roll lever has gone +as far as it will go. This completes the first operation or seam. + +Continue turning the crank with the right hand, and with the left hand +pull the seaming-roll lever until it will go no farther in this +direction. After this has been done give the crank several more turns, +and the second and final operation is complete. Bring the seaming-roll +lever back to the middle position and remove the can. The can is then +ready for sterilization. + +Before sealing a new lot of cans or after changing for a different +size of can, one or two of the cans about to be used should be tested +for leaks. If this is done and the cans stand the test it will be +unnecessary to test the remaining cans of that same lot. The following +is a simple and safe test: + +Put one tablespoon of water into an empty can and seal. Have on hand a +vessel containing enough boiling water to cover the can. Set aside +and, as soon as bubbles disappear from the surface, immerse the can in +the hot water. This heats the water in the can and creates a pressure +within the can. Keep the can under the surface for two minutes, and if +by that time no bubbles rise from the can the can has been sealed +air-tight. + + +ADJUSTING THE SEAMING ROLLS + +If bubbles rise from the can the seam is not sufficiently tight. If +this seam is not sufficiently tight the _second_ seaming roll needs +adjusting, provided the directions regarding seaming rolls given below +have been observed. To set the rolls proceed as follows: Loosen the +nut on the bottom of the seaming-roll pin. With a screw driver turn +the seaming-roll pin counter clockwise--that is, from right to left. +Turn very slightly and, while holding the seaming-roll pin with the +screw driver in the left hand, tighten nut with the right hand, and +test as before. + +Occasionally it is well to compare the seam after the first operation +with the sample can which is sent with the machine. + +If seaming rolls cut into the can they are set too close, and the +seaming-roll pin should be adjusted in the opposite direction from +above. + +After adjusting, always test cans as suggested above before canning. +The seaming rolls are set before the machine leaves the factory and +should not require adjusting for some time, but I have found that +slight variations in cans may make adjusting necessary. + +If for any reason the second seaming roll is brought into contact with +the can before the first operation is complete it may injure the can +seriously, thus preventing an air-tight seam. + +If the first seaming roll is forced in too rapidly it may ruin the +seam. Push the seaming-roll lever gently and steadily, while turning +the crank with the right hand. This rolls the seam gradually. There is +no danger from bringing in the second seaming roll too quickly if the +first seaming roll has completed its work. + +There are thus, as you see, two kinds of tin cans used in home +canning: The sanitary or rim-seal can, which is used with a sealer, +and the cap-and-hole can. The latter consists of a can, and a cover +which carries a rim of solder and is fastened on the can by the +application of heat. + +The sanitary can has a cover a trifle larger than the diameter of the +can, thus leaving the full diameter of the can open for filling. That +part of the cover that comes into contact with the can is coated with +a compound or fitted with a paper gasket or ring which makes a perfect +seal when the cover is crimped on the can. Some mechanical device is +necessary for sealing this can, and this is the sealer. + +Cans may be had with inside enamel or plain without any enamel. The +following fruits and vegetables should be canned in enamel-lined cans: +All berry fruits, cherries, plums, rhubarb, pumpkin, beets and squash. +All highly colored products should be canned in enamel-lined cans to +prevent the bleaching effect induced by their action upon the plain +tin. Some prefer to can fish and meat in the enamel-lined cans. Other +products not mentioned here may be canned in plain cans, since they +are less expensive than the enamel-lined cans. + +Covers are lined in two ways, with the paper gasket and the compound +gasket. The compound gasket is merely a preparation, scarcely visible, +applied to the under side of the cover and is not easily damaged by +handling. The paper gasket is a ring placed on the under side of the +cover and must be handled carefully. If the paper gasket becomes +broken the cover must be discarded. To sterilize covers having the +paper gasket, place them in the oven for a few minutes, but _do not +wet them_, before sealing cans. Do not remove or handle paper gaskets. + +When the cans are removed from the cooker the ends should be raised; +this is caused by the pressure within. If they are not raised at the +ends the cans should be carefully examined for defects. After the cans +are sterilized they should be cooled off in water. This will cause the +ends to collapse. If they do not collapse the reason is probably due +to overfilling. It must be remembered that peas, beans and corn swell +a certain amount after water is placed in the cans; therefore, in +canning these vegetables the cans should be filled only to within a +quarter of an inch of the top. If the pressure of the air from without +will not cause the end to collapse, it should be forced in by hand. + + +THE TINNING OUTFIT + +Tin-can sealers are made to handle the regular Number 2, or pint +cans, and the Number 3, or quart cans. The sizes are interchangeable, +so that in a few minutes' time a Number 2 machine may be changed into +a Number 3 machine with the necessary attachments. So it is economy to +buy a machine with these attachments, as you can then use either pints +or quarts as you desire. + +If you are selling to boarding houses and hotels you also will want +half-gallon and gallon cans. If you use these larger-size cans and +want the sealer you can get it for these sizes, but you must tell +exactly what you want when ordering. + +The prices which I give are 1919 prices and are of course not +stationary. A sealer that will seal the Number 2 sanitary tin cans +costs $14. A sealer for Number 3 cans will cost the same amount. But +the ideal arrangement is the combination machine which can be used for +both the pints, Number 2, and the quarts, Number 3. This type of +sealer costs $16.50. A special machine is used for sealing the Number +10 or gallon cans, and its price is $35. + +The price of the "winter can opener" is $17.00 for smaller size and +$19.50 for the larger one. + +Several standard sizes of tin cans are in common use for canning +purposes, as follows: + + DIAMETER OF + NUMBER SIZE OPENING + INCHES INCHES + 1 2-5/8 by 4 2-1/16 + 2 3-5/16 by 4-9/16 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 3 4-1/8 by 4-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 10 6/3/16 by 6-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + +The cans are put up in crates holding 100 or 500 cans. If you are +canning for the ordinary market use Number 2 cans for berries, corn, +peas and cherries; Number 3 cans for tomatoes, peaches, apples, pears +and sweet potatoes. + +In buying cans it is always necessary to state whether you desire +plain tin or lacquered--enameled--cans. In buying caps always ask for +the solder-hemmed caps and give the diameter of the can opening. For +whole fruits and vegetables, cans with two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch or +even larger openings are preferable. Since the size of the can opening +varies and it ordinarily will not be advisable to have more than one +capping iron, it is recommended that the larger +size--two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch--capping iron be purchased. + +The tin cans come in lots of 100 or 500 cans. It is possible to buy as +few as two dozen cans, but that never pays. It is cheaper to buy a +larger quantity. Number 2 plain sanitary cans in 500 lots cost $3.45 a +hundred; in 100 lots, $3.65 a hundred. Number 2 sanitary +cans--enameled--in 500 lots cost $3.80 a hundred; in 100 lots, $3.95 a +hundred. Number 3, plain, in 500 lots are $4.50 a hundred; Number 3, +plain, in 100 lots are $4.70 a hundred. Number 3, enameled cans, in +500 lots, are $4.95 a hundred; Number 3, enameled cans, in 100 lots, +are $5.10 a hundred. + +The gallons come twelve cans to a case. They are $1.40 a dozen if 100 +cases are bought. If less than 100 cases are ordered they are $1.50 a +dozen. + +The cans that you have to solder yourself run just about the same +price, Number 2 being $3.60 in 500 lots and $3.80 in 100 lots. Number +3 are $4.70 in 500 lots and $4.90 in 100 lots. The buyer must pay +express or freight charges on both sealers and tin cans. + + +PREPARING OLD CANS FOR REFILLING + + +Formerly, after using a tin can once we threw it away; but men with +brains, realizing this waste, have come to our rescue, and as a +consequence we can now use a can three times--that is, if we have a +sealer. The sealer that seals our cans will also open them for us, so +it becomes our winter can opener. With this can opener we can use our +tin cans three times, buying each year only new tops, which cost less +than good rubbers. + +Cutting and Reflanging Tin Cans. Cutting off the can the first time. +First lift the spring pin in the top piece, push the lever from you, +drop the spring pin between the stop of the first operation roll and +the cutting-roll stop. Place the can in the sealer, push the +can-raising lever against opposite side of frame. Turn the crank and +gently push seaming-roll handle from you until you come against +cutting-roll stop, and the top of your can is cut off. + +Reflanging. Remove standard can base and in its place put in the +reflanging base, lift the spring-pin and bring seaming-roll lever to +the original position. Drop the spring pin between the stops of the +first and second operation rollers, place the can in the sealer, open +end down, push raising lever round until the can engages with the +chuck, turn the crank and at the same time gradually push raising +lever round against the frame. The can is now ready for use again. + +Resealing. The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch shorter than +originally. Remove the reflanging base, put one of the narrow washers +on the top of the can-raising lever, then the standard can base, and +the sealer is now ready. Proceed as with the original can. + +Cutting the Can the Second Time. Proceed as at the first time, only +be sure to cut off the opposite end. The can may be cut open and +reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body. In cutting and +reflanging the second time, leave the three-sixteenth-inch washer +under the can base and reflanging base. + +Resealing the Second Time. Remove reflanging base and put the second +three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base and proceed as +directed under resealing. + + +THE SOLDERING OUTFIT + +The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a tipping +copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass or stoneware +cup in which to keep the soldering flux: sal ammoniac, a few scraps of +zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file. + +Soldering Flux. Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in crude +muriatic acid. It is used for cleaning the irons and for brushing the +tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for the melted lead +to adhere to the tin. + +To Make the Flux. Purchase at the drug store ten cents' worth of +crude muriatic acid. Place this in a porcelain, stone or glass jar. +Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will thoroughly dissolve. +The flux is always best when it has stood from twelve to sixteen hours +before using. Strain through a piece of cloth or muslin. Dilute with a +little water, about half and half. This will make the soldering flux. +When using keep the flux well mixed and free from dust and dirt. + +Tinning Capping Iron. Purchase five or ten cents worth of sal +ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife. Mix a +little solder with the sal ammoniac. Heat the capping iron hot enough +so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a liquid. Place +the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal ammoniac and +solder. Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering edge of the +iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the solder. All +particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, should be removed +from the iron before tinning. + +Tinning the Tipping Copper. The tipping copper is tinned in very +much the same way as the iron. Sometimes it is desirable to file the +tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to correct the point. +Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the mixture of sal +ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the melted lead and +is bright as silver. The copper should be filed nearly to a sharp +point. + +Capping a Tin Can. Use one tin can for experimenting. By capping and +tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and simply putting +another cap on the same can, you can use this one can until you become +proficient in capping. + +When capping the full packs arrange the cans in rows upon the table +while the capping and tipping irons are heating in the fire. Take a +handful of solder-hemmed caps and place them on all cans ready to be +capped. Place a finger on the vent hole, hold cap in place, and run +the brush containing a small amount of flux evenly round the +solder-hemmed cap with one stroke of the hand. Do this with all cans +ready to be capped. Then take the capping iron from the fire. Insert +in center the upright steel. Hold the capping iron above the cap until +the center rod touches the cap and holds it in place. Then bring it +down in contact with all four points of solder-hemmed cap and rotate +back and forth about three strokes. Do not bear down on capping iron. +A forward and back stroke of this kind, if properly applied, will +perfectly solder the cap in place. Remove capping iron and inspect the +joint. + +If any pin-holes are found recap or repair with copper. It may be +necessary to use a piece of wire lead or waste lead rim from a cap to +add more lead to the broken or pinhole places of a cap. + +Tipping a Tin Can. Take flux jar and brush. Dip brush lightly in +flux and strike the vent hole a side stroke, lightly, with brush +saturated with flux. + +Use the waste solder-hemmed cap rim or wire solder. Place point of +wire solder over vent hole. Place upon this the point of the hot, +bright, tipping copper. Press down with a rotary motion. Remove +quickly. A little practice will not only make this easy, but a smooth, +perfect joint and filling will be the result. The cans are now ready +for the canner. The handwork is all over, for the canner will do the +rest. + +Precautions. Do not fill tin cans too full. Leave a one-eighth to +one-quarter inch space at the top of the can and see that the product +does not touch the cover. If any of the product touches the cover the +application of the hot iron produces steam, which may blow out the +solder, making it impossible to seal the can. + + +RULES FOR STERILIZING + +Remember all fruits and vegetables are prepared for tin cans exactly +as they are for glass jars and the period of cooking or sterilizing is +the same. The following rules will help to avoid difficulties in the +operation of the various canning outfits: + +For hot-water-bath outfits, whether homemade or commercial. + +1. Support the cans off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and round the cans. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the cans by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the cans. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to jump over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. On removing the cans throw them into a sink with running cold water +or plunge them into a pail of cold water. + +5. If the cans are laid on their sides the false bottom is not +necessary. + +For steam-pressure and pressure-cooker canners the following +precautions should be observed: + +1. Lower the inside crate until it rests on the bottom of the +steam-pressure canners. In the case of the pressure cooker put the +rack in the bottom of the cooker. + +2. Have the water come to, but not above, the platform. + +3. Tin cans can be piled one above the other. + +4. When the canner has been filled fasten the opposite clamps +moderately tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Have the canner absolutely steam-tight. + +6. Allow the pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +7. Close the pet cock. + +8. After the gauge registers the correct amount of pressure, begin +counting the time. + +9. Maintain a uniform pressure throughout the process. + +10. When the process is completed allow the steam to escape gradually +through the pet cock. You can lift the pet cock slowly, using a pencil +or a knife. This can be done only with tin cans. If glass jars are +used the canner must be cooled before opening the pet cock. Blowing +the steam from the pet cock is likely to cause a loss of liquid from +the partly sealed glass jars. + +11. Throw the tin cans into cold water. + +12. If tin cans bulge at both ends after they have been completely +cooled, it indicates that they are spoiling and developing gas, due to +bacteria spores or chemical action. These may be saved if opened at +once and resealed or resoldered and processed again for ten minutes. + +The following table will help you in estimating how many cans of fruit +and vegetables you will obtain from a bushel of product: + + +NUMBER OF CANS A BUSHEL FILLS + + NO. 2 CANS NO. 3 CANS + Windfall apples 30 20 + Standard peaches 25 18 + Pears 45 30 + Plums 45 30 + Blackberries 50 30 + Windfall oranges, sliced 22 15 + Windfall oranges, whole 35 22 + Tomatoes 22 15 + Shelled Lima beans 50 30 + String beans 30 20 + Sweet corn 45 25 + Peas, shelled 16 10 + + + + +CHAPTER X + +INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + +In some parts of the United States, particularly in the South, such +vegetables as corn, beans, peas, squash, spinach, pumpkin, etc., are +canned by what is known as the fractional sterilization, or the +so-called Three Days Process. + +Southern canning experts have had trouble with certain vegetables, +such as those named, when they canned these vegetables in the wash +boiler by the cold-pack or one period method. They say that the +climatic conditions are so different in the South that what is +possible in the North is not possible in the South. + +The vegetables are prepared, blanched, cold-dipped and packed as in +the cold-pack method and the filled cans or jars are processed in the +wash boiler or other homemade outfit a given length of time three +successive days. + +After each day's processing the cans should be cooled quickly and set +aside, until the next day. + +The method is as follows: + +Process or sterilize glass jars for the required number of minutes on +the first day, remove from canner, push springs down tightly as you +remove the jar from the canner. + +On the second day raise the springs, place the jar in the canner, +process or boil for the same length of time as on the first day. +Remove from the canner and seal tightly. Set aside until the third +day, when the process should be repeated. + +For this canning a good spring-top jar is good, although the Mason jar +type of top will serve for one year; after one year of use it is +advisable to fit old Mason jars and similar types with new tops. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, do not disturb the +seal at the second and third processing unless the rubber has blown +out. + +This method is only necessary when depending upon boiling water or +condensed steam to do the work. + +A steam-pressure canner or pressure cooker is used in the South and +many other places to avoid bothering with vegetables three successive +days. + +The steam canner or pressure cooker soon pays for itself in time, +energy, and fuel saved as the vegetables may be canned at high +pressure in one processing. + +The following time-tables are those used in the South and will tell +you exactly how long to blanch and process all products. The +preparation of vegetables and fruits is the same as in the one-period +method, but the time of blanching and sterilizing differs as the +time-table indicates. + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + Tomatoes | BLANCH | LIQUOR | SIZE | PROCESS OR + | | | JAR | BOIL + ----------------------------------------------------------- + | 1 min. | No water |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Tomatoes | 1 min. | No water | Pint | 25 min. + | | | | + String beans | | | | + (very young |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |Quart |1 hr. 15 min. + and tender) | | | | + | | | | + Sweet potatoes| Cook ¾ | 2 |Quart | 3 hrs. + | done |tablespoonfuls| | + | | water | | + | | | | + Sauerkraut | | Brine[1] |Quart | 40 min. + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook ¾ | Hot water |Quart |1 hr. 40 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook ¾ | Hot water | Pint |1 hr. 20 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| |Quart | 1½ hrs. + | thick | | | + | | | | + Apples | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 15 min. + | | | | + Berries | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 13 min. + | | | | + Figs | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Peaches |1-2 min. | No. 2 sirup |Quart | 25 min. + | | | | + Pears | 1 min. | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 25-35 min. + | | | | + Cherries | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirups recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below: + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |SIZE |PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |JAR | EACH OF THREE + | | | | SUCCESSIVE DAYS + ----------------------------------------------------------------- + Corn |2 min. on cob|Water, salt |Pint | 1½ hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Garden peas|1 to 4 min. |Water, salt |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 20 min. + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. + | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Quart| 1¾ hr. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Quart| 1¾ hr. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 1½ hr. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS + |BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|OR BOIL + + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water | 3 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water |10 | 5 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |10 | 3 | 2 hrs. and + | | | | | 20 min. + | | | | | + Sweet potatoes |Cook ¾ |2 tablespoonfuls| 3 | 3 | 3 hrs. + | done | water | | | + | | | | | + Baby beets |Cook ¾ | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1½ hrs. + | done | | | | + | | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + | thick | | | | + | | | | | + Apples |1 min. | No. 3 sirup | 3 | 3 | 8 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. |No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 10 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 32 min. + | | | | | + Figs | | No. 4 sirup | 2 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Peaches |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 35 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirup recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below. + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 4, use 5 pounds 8 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 5, use 6 pounds 13 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|EACH OF THREE + | | | | |SUCCESSIVE DAYS + + Corn |2 min. on |Water, salt| 2 | 10 |1 hr. and 15 min. + | cob | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Garden peas |1 to 4 min.|Water, salt| 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min.| Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1½ hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1½ hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 2½ ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon of +water.] + +You will notice in the time-table for tin, that there is a column for +"Exhausting." After the can is packed and capped it is placed in the +canner of boiling water to within 1 inch of the top of the can where +it remains the number of minutes, usually three, indicated on the +time-table. This is done to force the air from the can through the +little hole left open in the top, and is called exhausting. Cans that +are not exhausted frequently bulge after processing and are looked +upon with suspicion. Cans exhausted too long frequently cave in at the +sides. The time-table should be used carefully and followed strictly +in this part of the process. Tin cans do not require exhausting in the +Northern and Western states. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES +STEAM PRESSURE + + | | |TEMPERATURE,| | + |VEGETABLE |PROCESS,|DEGREES |PRESSURE| + | |MINUTES |FAHRENHEIT |POUNDS | + + |Asparagus |30 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 2|45 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 3|55 |240 |10 | + |Beets |30 |228 | 5 | + |Corn |80 |250 |15 | + |Okra |30 |240 |10 | + |Peas |45 |240 |10 | + |Soup, concentrated | | | | + | vegetable |30 |228 |10 | + |Spinach |30 |228 |15 | + |Sweet potatoes |70 |250 |15 | + +Corn, lima beans and peas should never be packed in larger container +than No. 2. Corn is cut from cob after blanching. + +The brine used is made of 2½ ounces salt to 1 gallon of water, except +for asparagus, which contains 4 ounces to 1 gallon. + +Beets and rhubarb when packed in tin must be put in enamel-lined cans. + +Process pints as for No. 2 cans; quarts as for No. 3 cans, adding 10 +minutes to each period. + +String beans when more mature should be processed at 15 pounds +pressure for 30 minutes for No. 2, and 45 minutes for No. 3. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + +Every day brings letters to my desk saying, "Why did my jars of +vegetables lose water?" or, "When I looked into my canner I saw all +the beautiful dark sirup in the bottom of the canner instead of in the +jars," or, "What shall I do, my beets are all white?" etc., etc. In +this chapter I am going to try and tell you a few things you must and +must not do. A few "Do's" and "Don'ts" may help you a little in your +canning and food preserving. + +I want to say right here that if you have failures do not blame the +method as we are always so apt to do. Experts have worked long enough, +carefully and thoroughly enough, to convince themselves and others +that the cold-pack method and the intermittent method, which methods +are employed for cooking the product in the jar, are sure, safe, +reliable and efficient methods. So if your food spoils convince +yourself it is not the method but something else. Spoilage is due to +imperfect jars, imperfect rubbers, imperfect sealing of tin cans, +careless blanching, insufficient cold dipping or poor sterilizing. + + +CAN-RUBBERS + +Possibly your canning troubles are all due to using a poor grade of +rubber rings. This is poor economy. Rubbers are apt to give more +trouble than anything else to canners when using glass jars. Many of +the rubbers sold are of a very poor quality, disintegrating quickly +when subjected to heat and strain. My sister, canning in the hot +climate of India, has more trouble with the rubber proposition than +anything else. + +You want good rubbers, are willing to pay for them, and here is what +you should know about rubber rings. + +The one-period, cold-pack method and the intermittent method of home +canning require a rubber ring essentially different from that commonly +used in the old hot-pack method of home canning. Investigation shows +that many of the rings upon the market are unsuitable for these newer +methods, being unable to withstand the long periods of boiling +required in the canning of vegetables and meats. + +Practical canning tests have indicated that rubber rings for use in +this method should meet the following requirements: + +Inside Diameter. The ring should fit closely, requiring a little +stretching to get it around the neck of the jar. For standard jars the +ring should have an inside diameter of 2¼ inches. + +Width of Ring and Flange. The width of the ring or flange may vary +from one-fourth of an inch to twelve thirty-seconds of an inch. Tests +which have been made show that fewer cases of "blow-out" occur when +the flange is ten thirty-seconds of an inch. + +Thickness. Rubber rings as found on the market may vary from 1/18 to +1/10 of an inch in thickness. Tests show that 1/12 of an inch in +thickness is sufficient to take up the unevenness in the jar and still +not so thick as to make it difficult to place the cap or adjust the +bail. + +Cold-pack and intermittent-canning require a rubber ring that is +tough, does not enlarge perceptibly when heated in water or steam, and +is not forced out of position between the top and the jar by slight +pressure within the jar. This we call a "blow-out." + +Rubber rings should be capable of withstanding four hours of +sterilization in boiling water without blowing out on partially sealed +jars, or one hour under ten pounds of steam pressure. They should be +selected with reference to proper inside diameter, width of flange, +and thickness. Good rubber will stretch considerably and return +promptly to place without changing the inside diameter. They should +also be reasonably firm and able to stand without breakage. Color is +given to rings by adding coloring matter during the manufacturing +process. The color of the ring is no index to its usefulness in home +canning. Red, white, black or gray may be used. + +Always use _new_ can-rubbers with each year's product of canned goods. +An old rubber may look like a new one but it has lost its elasticity +and its use may cause imperfect sealing and thus endanger the keeping +quality of the food. This is always a hard thing to impress upon +thrifty penny-saving housekeepers. The old rubber looks so good, so +why not use it? But be wise in this and remember it is _never safe to +use old rubbers_. New rubbers are expensive but what about the cost of +the product, the loss of your time and fuel! One jar lost due to an +old rubber is so much food, time and fuel lost. + +And do not think yourself thrifty to use two old rubber rings instead +of one, thereby thinking to obtain a better seal, for you will not. +Two old rubbers are inferior in strength to one new good rubber. If +you use old rubbers and your canned goods spoil, blame the rubbers. + + +GLASS JARS + +Next in importance to the rubbers are the glass jars you use. There +are many kinds of fruit jars on the market. The question is frequently +asked, "Which jars on the market are the best." The only answer to +that is to choose the jar which is simplest in construction, which +will seal perfectly and wash easily, which protects the contained food +against contact with metal, which has the fewest parts to lose or +misplace and which fits the shelves and receptacles planned to hold +it. + + +FLAT SOUR + +Flat-sour often causes annoyance to beginners in canning some +vegetables, such as corn, peas, beans and asparagus. These canned +foods may show no signs of spoilage and yet when the can is opened the +product may have a sour taste and a disagreeable odor. This +"flat-sour" is not harmful and must not be confused with "botulinus," +which is harmful. However, the taste and odor are so disagreeable you +will have no desire to eat "flat-sour" canned goods. + +This trouble can be avoided if you will use fresh products, that is, +those which have not been allowed to wilt or stand around the shops +for several days, and will blanch, cold-dip, and pack one jar of +product at a time, and place each jar in the canner as it is packed. +The first jars in will not be affected by the extra cooking. When the +steam-pressure canner is used the jars or cans may be placed in the +retort and the cover placed into position but not clamped down until +the retort is filled. + + +TROUBLES WITH CORN + +Corn seems to give the most trouble, but with a little care and study +this product may be canned as easily as any other grown in the garden. +A little experience in selecting the ears and ability to recognize +corn that is just between the milk and dough stage is important. +Blanch not longer than five minutes. A plunge in cold water is +sufficient. Cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife and pack at +once in sterilized jars. Best results can be accomplished when two +people cut and one person fills. If it is necessary for one person to +work alone, cut off sufficient corn to fill one jar, pour on _boiling_ +water, add salt, place rubber and cap in position and put the jar at +once in the canner. A little overcooking does not injure the quality +of canned corn. Corn should not be tightly packed in the jar; it +expands a little in processing and for this reason each jar should be +filled scant full. Corn that has a cheesy appearance after canning had +reached the dough stage before being packed. Corn should never be +allowed to remain in the cold dip and large quantities should not be +dipped at one time unless sufficient help is available to handle the +product quickly. + +Some to be absolutely sure when canning corn, cook it for ten minutes +in hot water before packing into jars. + +Leave fully one inch of space at the top when packing corn but enough +water may be poured into the jar to fill the can or jar, for when the +corn swells the water will be absorbed. + +Corn Turning Dark. A dark color in canned corn is due to some of +the following causes: + +1. Using water that contains too much iron. + +2. Using corn that has reached the dough stage. + +3. Blanching for too long a period--five minutes is sufficient for +corn. + +Water-Logged or Soaked Corn. When canned corn becomes "water-logged" +or "soaked" it is due to such causes as the following: + +1. Allowing the product to stand in the cold water too long after the +hot dip. + +2. Allowing the jars to stand after they have been packed, and filled +with boiling water. The jars should be immediately placed in the +sterilizer after being packed. + +3. Allowing ears of corn to stand in cold water after opening. + +4. Heating corn in warm water over a slow fire. + + +BEETS, THEIR LOSS OF COLOR + +The loss of color in canned beets is due to faulty methods of +preparation before packing them into the jars. To secure good results +3 or 4 inches of the top and all of the tail should be left on while +blanching. Beets should be blanched for five minutes and the skin +should be scraped but not peeled. Beets should be packed whole if +possible. + +Small beets that run forty to a quart are less likely to fade and are +the most suitable size for first-class packs. The older the beets the +more chance there is for loss of color. Well-canned beets will show a +slight loss of color when removed from the canner, but will brighten +up in a few days. + + +CLOUDY PEAS + +The condition of peas known as "cloudy" is due to such causes as the +following: + +1. Cracking the skin of the pea. + +2. Blanching for too long a period. + +3. Use of water which is too hard or has too much mineral content. + + +SHRINKAGE OF PRODUCT DURING CANNING + +Shrinkage may be due to one or more of the following: + +1. Improper blanching and cold-dipping. + +2. Careless packing and using variety of sizes. + +3. Sterilizing for too long a period. + +4. Lack of sizing whole products for the container. + +Sometimes there is a natural shrinkage that cannot be prevented. This +is due to the fact that vegetables contain air in their tissues and +when this air is driven off by the heat, the boiling water in the jar +rushes in to fill its place. In consequence we have an apparent +shrinkage in the amount of water. So be careful to do the blanching as +correctly as possible to drive out the air; however, the product will +keep just as well in a jar half full of water as if entirely covered +with liquid. The contents of the jar whether food or air are sterile. + + +SHRINKAGE OF GREENS + +Shrinkage of greens or pot herbs during the canning process is usually +due to insufficient blanching. The proper way to blanch all greens or +pot herbs is in a steamer or in a vessel improvised to do the +blanching in live steam above the water line. If this is not done +much of the mineral salts and volatile oil contents will be extracted +by the water and lost. + + +LOSS OF LIQUID DURING CANNING + +A loss of liquid in canning with a hot-water-bath outfit may be caused +by one or more of the following: + +1. Not having the water in the sterilizing vat cover the tops of the +jars by at least one inch. + +2. Not providing a suitable platform to hold the jars off the bottom +of the sterilizing vat, permitting circulation of water under as well +as around the jars. + +3. Not having the wire bail that goes over the glass tops of jars +sufficiently tight. + + +REASONS WHY JUICES ARE DRAWN FROM JARS WHEN CANNING WITH STEAM +PRESSURE + +1. Open pet cock after pointer or gauge has reached zero; test for +pressure by opening pet cock slowly at first. The gauge does not +register pressure until about one pound of pressure has formed, hence +opening the pet cock before the pointer is at zero means that from one +to two pounds of pressure is being relieved and this will draw the +juices the same as allowing the boiler to stand and a vacuum to form. + +2. Allowing the pressure to fluctuate during the time of sterilizing, +such as running the pressure up to fifteen, back to seven or eight and +then up again. + +3. Wire bails can be and should be a little tighter when jars are put +in a steam pressure canner. The clamp should be left up as stated. + +4. There may be an escape of steam around the seal of the boiler and +this would allow the pressure on the inside of the boiler to +fluctuate. + +Any one of those four things will always cause loss of juice. + + +OPERATION OF HOT-WATER-BATH OUTFIT + +These four rules will help in the operation of the hot-water-bath +canning outfit: Example, wash boiler. + +1. Support the jars off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and around the jars. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the jars by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the jars. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to _jump_ over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. Remove jars from the water and tighten the covers as soon as the +time is up. + +Rapid cooling of the products prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture. + +Operation of steamers or "double-deckers" as they are sometimes +called. These have a small amount of water in a pan below two racks +and the products cook in steam instead of boiling water. + +1. Have water boiling in pan when products are put in. + +2. Use same time-table as for hot-water bath or wash boiler. + +3. Remove jars from steam at the end of the sterilizing period. Do not +allow them to "cool off" in the steamer. + +The operation of a water-seal canner is very simple. + +1. Jars put on racks and lowered in water as in wash-boiler but due +to an extra jacket the temperature is higher than boiling water. + +2. Follow time-table under water-seal. + + +OPERATION OF STEAM PRESSURE AND PRESSURE COOKER CANNER + +1. Place each jar in the canner as soon as it is packed. + +2. Have water come up to but not above the platform. + +3. Have canner absolutely steam tight. + +4. When canner has been filled fasten opposite clamps moderately +tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Allow pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +6. Close pet cock. + +7. Force pressure to the required point before counting time. + +8. Maintain a uniform pressure during the sterilizing period. + +9. Allow canner to cool before opening pet cock. + +10. Have pet cock completely closed during the cooling. + +11. Open pet cock before vacuum forms. This is evidenced by a rush of +air into the canner when the pet cock is open. You can test this by +placing the finger over the end of the pet cock. If a vacuum forms it +will draw the flesh of the finger into the opening. + +12. Remove jars from canner and tighten lids as soon as canner is +opened. + + +BREAKAGE OF JARS + +When breakage of jars occurs it is due to such causes as these: + +1. Overpacking jars. Corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell or expand +in processing. Do not quite fill jars with these products. + +2. Placing cold jars in hot water or vice versa. As soon as jars are +filled with hot sirup or hot water, place immediately in the canner. + +3. Having the wire bail of glass top jars too tight. + +4. In steam canner, having too much water in the canner. The water +should not come above the tray. + +5. Cold draft striking the jars when they are removed from the canner. + +6. Wire spring too tight, thus breaking jar when contents expand. + + +MOLD ON CANNED PRODUCTS + +Mold may result from one or more of the following: + +1. Leaky rubbers or defective joints. + +2. Removing tops from the jars at the end of sterilizing period and +substituting new rubbers, without returning the jars to the canning +outfit for at least a few minutes. + +3. If the jars are kept in a damp cellar where the rubbers may +decompose, mold may enter through these decomposed rubbers. + + +ACIDITY OF TOMATOES AFTER CANNING + +Too great a degree of acidity in canned tomatoes may be due to +climatic conditions or overripe or underripe product. Such acidity +can be corrected by adding ¼ teaspoonful of baking soda to one quart +of tomatoes. + + +WATER REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME CANNING + +The hardening of beans, peas and some other products after cooking or +processing, or the turning of green vegetables to a dark or russet +color usually indicates that the water contains too high a percentage +of mineral matter. Water used for canning purposes should be pure, +soft if possible or as free from objectionable and excessive qualities +of mineral matter as possible. If you are to can any large quantity of +food products and have difficulty with the water available, it would +be well for you to have the water analyzed and for you to secure the +advice of some one at your college of agriculture. + + +TOO MUCH SALT IN CANNED GOODS INJURIOUS TO QUALITY + +Most vegetables as well as meats are injured in quality by an +excessive use of salt for seasoning in the canning process. A little +salt is very palatable and its use should be encouraged but it is +better to add no salt in canning than to use too much, as it can be +added to suit the taste when served. + + +ALTITUDE AND ITS EFFECT ON CANNING + +Remember that practically all instructions on home canning are based +upon a time schedule for sterilization from sea level to an altitude +of 500 feet above sea level. When canning at an altitude of more than +500 feet above sea level, it will be necessary to use your judgment in +the increase of time for sterilizing on the basis of 20 per cent for +each 4,000 feet. + +Blanching means _boiling_, not hot. In different directions for +canning we often find "hot" water mentioned when boiling water is +intended. Water should be _boiling at a gallop_ when vegetables are +blanched--berries and soft fruits are not usually blanched, though +some are scalded to loosen the skin. + + +BERRIES OR FRUIT RISING TO THE TOP + +Some women are disturbed because berries and fruits have a tendency to +always rise to the top of the jar leaving a sirup space in the bottom. +To prevent this you can scald all berries and fruits which are not +ordinarily scalded, for one minute and then cold-dip them. They will +be softened some, but remain firm, and can be packed very closely in a +jar. They can be packed so closely that only a little sirup can be +added. When a jar thus packed comes from the sterilizer the berries or +fruit are not floating as they would be if they were not scalded. + +Another method employed to prevent berries from floating is to put the +hot sterilized jar on its side while cooling and to roll it frequently +during the cooling period. The berries are then evenly distributed +through the sirup. + +In canning mushrooms in tin, always use lacquered cans. Do not fail to +blanch and cold dip before packing, and remove the mushrooms +immediately after opening the tin cans. + +In canning cabbage and other similar products always soak the product +in cold brine for one hour before sterilizing. Use ½ pound salt to 12 +quarts water. This is believed to improve the flavor. Always wash +greens or other vegetables, to remove all dirt and grit. + + +TROUBLES WITH TIN CANS + +To discover pin-holes or any leaks in a tin can, immerse it in boiling +water after sealing and if there is any bubbling from the can, you may +rest assured it needs resealing. + +Swells in tin cans are caused by insufficient sterilization. The +action of bacteria causes gas to form in the can and as a result there +is a bulging at either end. If left alone long enough the cans will +explode. Watch carefully all bulging cans and use them first. +Sometimes a slight bulge occurs when a can has been filled too full. + +If you have trouble sealing tin cans the chances are that the can is +too full. See that no particle of food touches the top or when +soldering, if you employ that method of sealing, small pin holes will +be blown in the seal by escaping steam which is generated by the hot +sealer coming in contact with the cold food. Another cause of sealing +trouble lies sometimes in a poorly heated capping steel or because it +is not kept brightly tinned. To make a proper seal the steel must be +kept bright, hot and clean. + +Also, be sure you buy good solder as there are inferior grades that +are too poor to flow when properly heated. + + +FROZEN PRODUCTS + +Watch all jars and cans that have been subjected to a freeze. If the +cans or jars do not burst the only harm done is a slight softening of +the food tissues. In glass jars after freezing there is sometimes a +small crack left which will admit air and consequently bacteria. + +Sometimes cans and jars tip over in the wash boiler during +sterilizing. This is caused by using a false-bottom which is too low +or because it is not well perforated. Or it may be due to the fact +that the jar was not well packed and so may be too light in weight. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +GETTING READY TO DRY + + +For various reasons women have not taken so kindly to drying fruits +and vegetables as they have to canning these foods. + +One woman said to me: "I like the canning because I can come to a +demonstration and see the whole process carried through from start to +finish. The drying of strawberries cannot be completed in sixteen +minutes as the canning is." And another woman said: "What I do not +like about drying is having the stuff standing round the house +somewhere for so many hours. I like to get things in the jars and out +of sight." + +These two objections seem to be expressed more than any other. And in +addition there is a third objection to drying: "I want my prepared +food ready to use on a minute's notice. I can quickly open a can of my +fruit and vegetables and there it is ready. With my dried things I +have to allow time for soaking and cooking." This we will have to +admit is true. But what weight have these three arguments against the +many advantages of drying? + +When we study the history of food preservation we find that drying was +practiced before canning, pickling or preserving. I know my +grandmother successfully dried quantities of things. + +Vegetable and fruit drying have been little practiced for a +generation or more, though there have been some thrifty housekeepers +who have clung to their dried corn, peas, beans and apples. A friend +of mine says: "Why, dried corn has a much better, sweeter taste than +your canned stuff. I would rather have one little dish of my delicious +dried corn than two big dishes of your canned corn." + +Drying, I think we will all admit, does not and cannot take the place +of canning fruits and vegetables in glass or tin. Drying and canning +are twin sisters, and always go hand in hand. + +The ideal arrangement for all homes, whether on the farm, in the +village, in the town or in the city, is to have an ample supply of +canned food for emergencies and quick service, and an equally ample +supply of dried foods when meals are planned beforehand and there is +time enough for the soaking and cooking of the dried foods. + + +THE ADVANTAGES OF DRYING + +When we come right down to facts, drying has many advantages over +canning. + +The process is very simple, as you will see. The cost is slight. In +almost every home the necessary equipment, in its simplest form, is +already at hand. There is no expense for glass jars or tin cans, and +with ordinary care there is no loss of products, as there may be in +handling glass jars or from spoilage. The actual work requires less +time and less skill than canning and the dried products when properly +prepared are just as good as the canned ones--some say better. + +One special thing in favor of drying is the little storage space +needed. You can often reduce 100 pounds of fresh product to ten +pounds by drying, without any loss of food value and with little loss +of flavor. + +Dried products can be moved more conveniently than glass jars or tin +cans, for they are usually reduced to from one-third to one-fifth of +the original bulk. + +Another valuable thing about drying is that the little odds and ends +one would scarcely bother to can may be dried in the oven as you go +about your housework. + +I have often been asked the difference between the meaning of the +terms "evaporated," "dried," "desiccated" and "dehydrated." These +terms are used more or less interchangeably when applied to foods from +which the moisture has been removed. In a general way, however, +"evaporated" products are those from which the moisture has been +removed through the agency of artificial heat; dried fruit is that +which has been exposed to the heat of the sun, though not infrequently +the term is applied to products handled in the evaporator. The other +terms are commonly applied to products that have been evaporated by +one of the various patented processes in which equipment of some +special design has been used. + +To avoid any confusion we will use the general term "dried" for all +products that have enough of the water removed to prevent bacterial +action, but which still retain the maximum food value, color and +flavor of the original product. And that is what we want to accomplish +when we attempt to dry. + +How are we to remove the water and still retain food value, color and +flavor? There are three principal methods by which we can do this. +First, by artificial heat. Drying by artificial heat is done in the +oven or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays suspended on the +stove or in a specially constructed dryer built at home or purchased. + +Second, by the sun. Sun drying is done either out of doors in the sun, +under glass in sun parlors, or the products are hung in the attic +where the sun has free access. + +Third, satisfactory drying may be done by an air blast from an +electric fan. + +Of course any one of these may be used alone or two different methods +may be combined. You can start a product on the stove and finish it in +the sun, or _vice versa._ + +The simplest and yet the most effective drying may be done on plates +or dishes placed in the oven. It may be done on the back of the +kitchen stove with these same utensils while the oven is being used +for baking. In this way left-overs and other bits of food may be dried +with slight trouble while the stove is being used, and saved for +winter use. This method is especially effective for sweet corn. A few +sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a single turnip, may be dried +and saved. + +To keep the heat from being too great, when drying in the oven leave +the oven door partly open. For oven use, a simple tray may be made of +galvanized-wire screen of convenient size, with the edges bent up for +an inch or two on each side. At each corner this tray should have a +leg an inch or two in length to hold it up from the bottom of the oven +and permit circulation of air round the product. + +Oven drying in a gas range is an effective method if the temperature +is kept even. An oven thermometer is a great convenience, otherwise +the temperature will have to be carefully watched and the burners +turned as low as possible. It is economy in the end to purchase an +oven thermometer, for then you can have the temperature just right. It +is best to start the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit and dry at +130 degrees. Never go over 150 degrees. + +If you wish to dry in the oven over the kerosene stove, place +soapstones over each burner to prevent the heat from becoming too +intense. Turn the burners very low until the stones are thoroughly +heated. You can turn off the burners completely after the desired +temperature is reached and it will be maintained from the heat of the +stones for five or six hours. If more time than that is required for +the drying, it may be necessary to light the burners again before the +end of the process. The products should be turned constantly, so that +they may dry evenly. + +When using any oven for drying you can cover the oven racks with +cheesecloth and spread the products on them. Always have the racks two +or three inches apart to allow free circulation of air. + +An effective dryer for use over a stove or range may easily be made at +home. For the frame use strips of wood a half inch thick and two +inches wide. The trays or shelves are made of galvanized-wire screen +of small mesh tacked to the supports. Separate trays sliding on strips +attached to the framework are desirable. This dryer may be suspended +from the ceiling over the kitchen stove or range or over an oil, +gasoline or gas stove, and it may be used while cooking is being done. +If an oil stove is used there must be a tightly fitting tin or +galvanized-iron bottom to the dryer, to prevent the fumes of the oil +from reaching and passing through the material which is to be dried. A +bottom of this kind may be easily attached to any dryer, homemade or +commercial. A framework crane makes it possible for this dryer to be +swung to one side when not in use. + +A larger kind of homemade stove dryer can be made. This is a good +size: base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The lower part or +supporting framework, six inches high, is made of galvanized sheet +iron, slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with two ventilating +holes in each of the four sides. The frame which rests on this base is +made of strips of wood one or one and a half inches wide. Wooden +strips, an inch and a quarter wide and three inches apart, serve to +brace the sides and furnish supports for the trays. + +In a dryer of the dimensions given there is room for eight trays. The +sides, top and back are of galvanized-iron or tin sheets, tacked to +the framework, though thin strips of wood may be used instead of the +metal. Small hinges and a thumb latch are provided for the door. +Galvanized sheet iron, with numerous small holes in it, is used for +making the bottom of the dryer. To prevent direct heat from coming in +contact with the product and also to distribute the heat by radiation, +a piece of galvanized sheet iron is placed two inches above the +bottom. This piece is three inches shorter and three inches narrower +than the bottom and rests on two wires fastened to the sides. + +The trays are made of wooden frames of one-inch strips, to which is +tacked galvanized-wire screen. Each tray should be three inches +shorter than the dryer and enough narrower to allow it to slide +easily on the supports when being put in or taken out. + +In placing the trays in the dryer push the lower one back as far as it +will go, leaving a three-inch space in front. Place the next tray even +with the front, leaving the space at the back. Alternate all the trays +in this way to facilitate the circulation of the heated air. It is +well to have a ventilating opening, six by two inches, in the top of +the dryer to discharge moisture. The trays should be shifted during +the drying process to procure uniformity of drying. + +Several types of stove dryers are on the market. One of these has a +series of trays in a framework, forming a compartment. This is placed +on top of the stove. Another is a shallow metal box which is filled +with water. This is really a water-bath dryer. This dryer or +dehydrator can be used on either a gas or coal range. A thermometer is +necessary in order to maintain the right temperature. The slices of +vegetables or fruit are placed on the tray with the thermometer, and +the dryer does the work. + +Commercial dryers having their own furnaces may be bought at prices +ranging from $24 to $120. Some of these, in the smaller sizes, may be +bought without furnaces and used on top of the kitchen stove. The cost +is from $16 upward. + +Sun drying has much to recommend it. There is no expense for fuel, no +thermometer is needed, and there is no danger of overheating the +fruits or vegetables. + +For sun drying of fruits and vegetables, the simplest way is to spread +the slices or pieces on sheets of plain paper or lengths of muslin and +expose them to the sun. Muslin is to be preferred if there is danger +of sticking. Trays may be used instead of paper or muslin. Sun drying +requires bright, hot days and a breeze. Once or twice a day the +product should be turned or stirred and the dry pieces taken out. The +drying product should be covered with cheesecloth tacked to a frame +for protection from dust and flying insects. If trays are rested on +supports placed in pans of water, the products will be protected from +crawling insects. Care must be taken to provide protection from rain, +dew and moths. During rains and just before sunset the products should +be taken indoors. + +To make a cheap tray for use in sun drying, take strips of wood +three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches wide for the sides and +ends. To form the bottom, laths should be nailed to these strips, with +spaces of one-eighth of an inch between the laths to permit air +circulation. A length of four feet, corresponding to the standard +lengths of laths, is economical. Instead of the laths galvanized-wire +screen with openings of one-eighth or one-quarter of an inch, may be +used. In using wire the size of the tray should be regulated by the +width of wire screen obtainable. The trays should be of uniform size, +so that they may be stacked together for convenience in handling. + +A small homemade sun dryer, easily constructed, is made of light +strips of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of galvanized-wire +screen and some cheesecloth. A convenient size for the glass top is +eighteen by twenty-four inches. To hold the glass make a light wooden +frame of strips of wood a half inch thick and one inch wide. This +frame should have legs of material one by one and a half inches, with +a length of twelve inches for the front legs and eighteen inches for +those in the rear. This will cause the top to slope, which aids in +circulation of air and gives direct exposure to the rays of the sun. +As a tray support nail a strip of wood to the legs on each of the four +sides, about four inches below the top framework and sloping parallel +with the top. The tray is made of thin strips of wood about two inches +wide and has a galvanized-wire screen bottom. There will be a space of +about two inches between the top edges of the tray and the glass top +of the dryer, to allow for circulation of air. + +Protect both sides, the bottom and the front of the dryer with +cheesecloth, tacked on securely and snugly, to exclude insects and +dust without interfering with circulation. At the rear place a +cheesecloth curtain, tacked at the top but swinging free below, to +allow the tray to be moved in and out. Brace the bottom of this +curtain with a thin strip of wood, as is done in window shades. This +curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons when the tray is in +place. If you have a sunny, breezy attic you can hang your drying +trays there. + +The use of an electric fan is an effective means of drying. As there +is no danger of the food scorching, the fan proves as effective as the +sun for drying. + +Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed on trays one foot wide and +three feet long. These trays are stacked and the fan placed close to +one end, with the current of air directed lengthwise along the trays. +The number of trays to be used is regulated by the size of the fan. +Drying by this process may be done in twenty-four hours or less. With +sliced string beans and shredded sweet potatoes a few hours are +sufficient if the air is dry. + +Of importance equal to proper drying is the proper packing and storage +of the finished product. Use baking-powder and coffee cans and similar +covered tins, pasteboard boxes with tight-fitting covers, strong paper +bags, and patented paraffin paper boxes, which may be bought in +quantities at comparatively low cost. + +A paraffin container of the type used by oyster dealers for the +delivery of oysters will be found inexpensive and easily handled. If +using this or a baking-powder can or similar container, after filling +adjust the cover closely. The cover should then be sealed. To do this +paste a strip of paper round the top of the can, covering the joint +between can and cover for the purpose of excluding air. Pasteboard +boxes should be sealed by applying melted paraffin with a brush to the +joint. + +If a paper bag is used the top should be twisted, doubled over and +tied with a string. Moisture may be kept out of paper bags by coating +them, using a brush dipped into melted paraffin. Another good +precaution is to store bags in an ordinary lard pail or can or other +tin vessel having a closely fitting cover. + +The products should be stored in a cool, dry place, well ventilated +and protected from rats, mice and insects. In localities where the air +is very moist, moisture-proof containers must be used. It is good +practice to use small containers, so that it will not be necessary to +leave the contents exposed long after opening and before using. + +A very good plan is to pack just enough fruit or vegetables for one or +two meals in each container. This will lessen the chance of large +quantities being spoiled. For convenience label all packages. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + +Having decided to add the accomplishment of drying to your other +housewifely arts, you have given some thought and study to the subject +of driers. You now know whether you prefer sun, artificial or fan +drying. You have either made or bought some kind of a drier. Little +other equipment is needed. + +A few good paring knives, some plates, and if possible some cutting or +slicing device to lighten the work of preparation are all that are +necessary. A sharp kitchen knife will serve every purpose in slicing +and cutting fruits for drying, if no other device is at hand. The +thickness of all slices of fruit should be from an eighth to a quarter +of an inch. Whether sliced or cut into strips the pieces should be +small, so as to dry quickly. They should not, however, be so small as +to make them hard to handle or to keep them from being used to +advantage in preparing dishes for the table, such as would be prepared +from fresh products. Berries are dried whole. Apples, quinces, peaches +and pears dry better if cut into halves, rings or quarters. + +Cleanliness is essential. A knife blade that is not bright and clean +will discolor the product on which it is used. + +Winter apples should be chosen for drying when possible, as sweet +apples and early varieties are not so well adapted to the purpose. +The Northern Spy, the Baldwin and the Ben Davis give a good-flavored +dried product. Most early varieties lack sufficient firmness of +texture for the best results. On the other hand, some comparatively +early kinds, such as Gravenstein and Porter, are considerably prized +in some sections. + +To prepare them for drying, apples are peeled, cored, trimmed and +sliced one quarter of an inch thick. Be sure to cut out all worm +holes, decayed spots and other blemishes. Defects are easily cut out +with an ordinary straight-back, sharp-pointed knife having a blade two +and a half to three inches long. + +To prevent discoloration, as fast as the fruit is prepared dip it into +a weak salt solution--three level teaspoonfuls of salt to one gallon +of water. After all the apples are prepared, remove surplus moisture +and put on trays, water-bath drier or whatever device you are using. + + +HOW TO REGULATE THE HEAT + +Start with the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually raise +it to 130 degrees and do the drying at that temperature. It is +important to know the degree of heat in the drier, and this cannot be +determined very accurately except by using a thermometer. Inexpensive +oven thermometers can be bought or an ordinary thermometer can be +suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not used the greatest care +should be given to the regulation of the heat. The temperature in the +drier rises rather quickly and the product may scorch unless close +attention is given to it. + +The reason sun drying is popularly believed to give fruits and +vegetables a sweeter flavor probably is that in the sun they never are +scorched, whereas in the oven or over a stove scorching is likely to +happen unless one is very careful. An oven or dairy thermometer is a +good investment. If you do not have a thermometer test the heat by the +air feeling warm to the hand. The product should never be so hot that +it cannot be grasped in the hand. In order to prevent the fruit from +burning where artificial heat is used and to keep it from sticking to +the drier by remaining in contact with it too long, stir the fruit +occasionally. To insure the most uniform drying in sun drying, the +fruit also should be stirred occasionally. + +Remember that if trays with metal bottoms are used for drying, they +should be covered with cheesecloth to prevent acid action. Oven racks +may be covered with either cheesecloth or heavy wrapping paper. + +The interval between stirring varies with the type of drier used, with +the condition of the fruit and with the degree of heat maintained. +Make the first stirring within two hours after the drying is begun. +After that examine the product from time to time and stir often enough +to prevent scorching or sticking and to insure uniform drying. Use a +wooden paddle for stirring. Where several trays or racks are placed +one above the other, it is necessary to shift the trays from time to +time, so the upper tray goes to the bottom and the bottom tray to the +top. + +The time necessary for drying fruit depends upon several factors: The +type and construction of the drier; the depth to which the fruit is +spread; the method of preparing, whether sliced, quartered or whole; +the temperature maintained; and weather conditions, whether bright +and sunny or cloudy and damp. + +If the atmosphere is heavy and damp the drying is retarded. Under some +conditions it is hardly possible thoroughly to dry fruit. + +There is possibly no step in the entire drying process that requires +better-trained judgment than the matter of knowing when the fruit is +sufficiently dried. A little experience will soon teach this. + +The fruit should be so dry that when a handful of slices is pressed +together firmly into a ball the slices will be "springy" enough to +separate at once upon being released from the hand. No fruit should +have any visible moisture on the surface. As the dried apples, pears, +peaches and apricots are handled they should feel soft and velvety to +the touch and have a pliable texture. You do not want fruit so dry +that it will rattle. If fruits are brittle you have dried them too +much. + +After the apples and all other fruits are dried they must go through +another process, called "conditioning." The best way to "condition" +fruits is to place them in boxes or cans and pour them from one +container into another once a day for three or four successive days. +By doing this you mix the fruit thoroughly and give to the whole mass +an even degree of moisture. Pieces that are too dry will absorb +moisture from those that are too moist. + +You may lose a whole bag or jar of dried products if you neglect the +conditioning, for if one moist piece goes into that bag all is lost. +Moisture breeds mold and mold means decay. + +Ask yourself these questions: "Do I ever lose any dried products? Are +my dried products when soaked and cooked as near like the original +fruit as possible?" If you lose products and if your dried fruits are +tasteless you had better start the conditioning process. For with this +one step added to your drying you need lose no dried products, and you +need not dry the fruits to the brittle stage, as you must of necessity +do when you put them away immediately. + +After you have poured the dried products back and forth every day for +three or four days as an additional precaution, reheat the dried fruit +to 140 degrees just long enough--about thirty minutes--to allow the +heat to penetrate throughout the product. + +Two kinds of moths stand out prominently among insects that attack +dried fruits and vegetables. They are much more likely to get into the +fruit during the process of drying than to find their way through +boxes into the stored products. This applies particularly to drying in +the sun. The Indian-meal moth is the most destructive of these +insects. It is about three-eighths of an inch long and has a cloaked +appearance, one-third gray and the rest copper-brown. The fig moth is +about the same size, but dark, neutral gray. A minute, flattened +chocolate-brown beetle usually accompanies these moths and does +considerable damage. Both of the moths deposit their eggs on fruit +when it is on the drying racks--usually at dusk or after dark, for +these insects are not fond of daylight. + +It takes from three to ten days for the eggs to hatch into whitish or +pinkish grublike caterpillars, and from five to ten weeks from the +laying of the eggs before more moths appear to lay another lot of +eggs. A number of "broods" or generations are produced yearly, so if +a few of these moth eggs are stored away on dried fruits or vegetables +hundreds of caterpillars are produced and many pounds of valuable +material may be destroyed during the winter if the products are stored +in a warm room. Dried fruits stored in warm, dark bins or in sacks +offer especially favorable places for the development of these +destructive moths. + +It is evident that the larger the package, the greater the chance of a +few eggs doing much damage. Small cartons or containers confine the +injury from these moths to small quantities of material; for if the +containers are closed tightly the insects cannot easily escape from +them and infest other packages which may not have been infested +previously. + +If you are drying by sun and the products are not thoroughly dry at +night, finish the process on the stove. If you desire to carry it over +to the next day screen the drying racks early in the evening and +fasten down the cheesecloth. With these precautions and with proper +storage, no danger ordinarily need be feared from these insects. The +additional precaution of heating the dried product to 140 degrees for +thirty minutes sterilizes it if already infested. + +Though not necessary, tin cans or glass jars make good receptacles for +storage of dried fruits or vegetables. Pasteboard boxes with tight +covers, stout paper bags and patented paraffin paper cartons also +afford ample protection for dried products when protected from insects +and rodents. The dried products must be protected from outside +moisture, and will keep best in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. +These conditions, however, are difficult to obtain in the more humid +regions, and there moisture-tight containers should be used. If a +small amount of dried product is put in each receptacle, just enough +for one or two meals, it will not be necessary to open a container, +the contents of which cannot be consumed in a short time. If a paper +bag is used the upper part should be twisted into a neck, bent over +and tied tightly with a string. A further precaution is to place the +small bags in a tin container with a tightly fitting cover, such as an +ordinary lard can. All bags should bear a label. + +Pears and quinces usually are prepared and dried exactly as are +apples. Pears are attractive when cut lengthwise into halves, with the +stem and calyx removed but the core left in. Or they may be quartered. +If sliced like apples the drying period is shortened. + +Peaches usually are dried unpeeled, but they are better if peeled +before drying. The first step in the preparation of peaches is to +split them open to remove the pit. To do this, cut completely round +the peach in the line of the suture with a sharp knife. The cut must +be complete, for tearing of the flesh will make the finished product +less attractive. If the fruit is to be peeled the paring should be +done before it is cut open to remove the pit. + +To facilitate the removal of the skin, dip the peaches in a kettle of +boiling water for one and a half minutes; then plunge directly into +cold water, after which the skins can be easily slipped off. After the +pit has been removed, lay on drier pit side up. The juice of the fruit +will collect in the pit or "cup" and will add to the flavor and +quality of the dried peaches. The peaches can be cut into smaller +pieces if you wish to lessen the drying period. + +Plums and apricots are not peeled, but are cut into halves, the pits +removed and dried in the same way as peaches. Small, thin-fleshed +varieties of plums are not suitable for drying. + +When drying cherries always remove the stems. The pits may or may not +be removed. The best product for later cooking or eating has the pit +removed, though large quantities of juices are lost in the pitting +unless you provide some way of saving and utilizing it. + +A prune is simply a plum having certain qualities not possessed by all +plums. All prunes are plums, but not all plums are prunes. The final +test as to whether a plum is a prune is the ability to dry without +fermenting with the pit still remaining in the fruit. If a plum cannot +dry without fermentation unless the pit is removed, it is not a prune. +Prunes for drying, like other fruits, should be fully ripe. + +Prunes are merely washed and then dried without removing the pits. The +fruit is dry when the skin is well shrunken. The texture should be +firm but springy and pliable enough to yield readily when pressed in +the hand. The drying should not be continued until the individual +prunes rattle as they are brought in contact with one another in +handling. Prunes must be conditioned before storing. + +In drying, prunes shrink about two-thirds in weight--that is, for +every three pounds of fresh fruit you get one pound of finished +product. + +Smaller fruits, such as red and black raspberries, blackberries, +huckleberries, dewberries, strawberries and blueberries, are simply +washed and then put to dry. Berries must not be dried too hard; if +too much moisture is removed they will not resume their original form +when soaked in water. But the material must be dried sufficiently or +it will mold. Haven't you often tasted extremely seedy dried berries? +They were dried until they rattled. Stop the drying as soon as the +berries fail to stain the hand when pressed. + +To obtain the most satisfactory results soft fruits should be only one +layer deep on the drying trays. + +Fruits contain about 80 to 95 per cent water and when dried +sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per cent of water, so it is a +good plan to weigh before and after drying. The product should lose +from two-thirds to four-fifths of its weight. + + +STEPS IN FRUIT DRYING + +1. Thoroughly cleanse the product. + +2. Prepare the product by slicing and so on. + +3. Spread on trays; put in oven or put on commercial drier. + +4. Stir occasionally. + +5. Shift trays. + +6. Test for completeness of drying. + +7. "Condition" for three or four days. Sweet fruits may contain more +moisture without spoiling than those of low sugar content. + +8. Heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for thirty minutes, to kill all +insects. + +9. Pack immediately in available receptacles. + +10. Label and store. + + +FRUIT PASTES + +Fruit pastes are delicious and can be dried. + +1. Select, wash, prepare fruit. +2. Cook until soft; stir. +3. Add sugar to sweeten. +4. Continue cooking until very thick. +5. Spread out flat by spoonfuls on oiled paper. +6. Dry in slow oven; finish drying over kitchen range. +7. Turn from time to time like griddle cakes. + +Nuts of all kinds can be dried in these cakes, which may be left whole +or cut in strips with scissors. + + +CANDIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES + +1. Select product of uniform size and ripeness. + +2. Wash; prepare in usual way. + +3. Cut fruit in halves, quarters or smaller sections; cut vegetables +in narrow strips two and a half inches long. + +4. Drop in a sirup cooked until it spins a thread. To prepare ginger +sirup, add a few roots of ginger to the sirup. + +5. Cook until transparent. + +6. Drain. + +7. Dry in slow oven; Finish drying over kitchen range. + +8. Roll in granulated sugar. (May be omitted for fruits.) + + +This method is recommended especially for candied apples, peaches, +pears and carrots. + +In a properly constructed sun drier, all fruits will dry in from 3 to +12 hours, under normal summer conditions. Time depends on dryness of +atmosphere, sunshine and wind. Products dried in a sun drier, no +matter how crude, are superior to those dried in the open without +protection of some kind. Products dry more rapidly in high altitudes +than at sea level. + +Racks in oven can be used. Plates or platters can be used in oven. A +stove drier hung over the stove can be used. A water-bath or other +commercial drier can be used with the stove. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING FRUITS + +[A] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TIME IN HOURS TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° F. + +[B] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] + | | | + Apples | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Drop in salt solution, 3 | | + |level teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of | | + | water to prevent discoloration. | | + | | | + Apricots |Remove pits, but do not peel. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + | into halves and dry, "cup" side | | + | up. | | + Berries, All| | | + Kinds | Wash; stem or hull. | 4-5 | 24-36 + | | | + Cherries | Remove stems. Pit or not, as | 2-4 | 24-36 + | desired. If pitted, save and | | + | utilize juice. | | + | | | + Pears | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Or peel, cut in halves | | + | lengthwise; remove stems and | | + | calyx. | | + | | | + Peaches |Peel, remove stones; cut in halves| 4-6 | 24-36 + | or smaller pieces. If in halves, | | + |lay pit or "cup" side up to retain| | + | juice. | | + | | | + Plums |Do not peel, but remove pits. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + |in halves and dry, "cup" side up. | | + | | | + Prunes | Wash; do not pit. | 5-7 | 24-36 + | | | + Quinces | Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. | | + | | | + Rhubarb | Select young stems. Wash and cut | 6-8 | 24-36 + | into ½" pieces, using very sharp | | + |knife. Do not remove skins, so the| | + | rhubarb will retain pink color. | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + +Vegetable drying is a little more complicated than fruit drying, just +as vegetable canning is more complicated than fruit canning. Blanching +is an important part of the operation. It makes vegetable drying +satisfactory as well as easy and simple, just as it makes vegetable +canning possible. + +However, there is one difference between blanching vegetables for +canning and blanching them for drying. After repeated experiments it +has been found that for drying purposes it is best to blanch all +vegetables in steam rather than in boiling water. In vegetable canning +we blanch almost all vegetables in boiling water, usually steaming +only the members of the "green" family. + +So remember that for drying all vegetables are blanched in steam. To +do this steaming you can use your ordinary household steamer, such as +you use for steaming brown breads and suet puddings, or you can simply +place a colander over boiling water in a kettle. Do not allow the +colander to touch the water. If you are fortunate enough to possess a +pressure cooker, steam the vegetables for drying in it. + +Blanching is necessary for many reasons. It removes the strong +flavors, objectionable to many people. Beans, cabbage, turnips and +onions have too strong a flavor if dried without blanching. +Furthermore, it starts the color to flowing, just as it does in +canning. It removes the sticky coating round vegetables. Most +vegetables have a protective covering to prevent evaporation. The +removal of this covering by blanching facilitates drying. Blanching +also relaxes the tissues, drives out the air and improves the +capillary attraction, and as a result the drying is done in a much +shorter period. Products dry less rapidly when the texture is firm and +the tissue contains air. + +Blanching checks the ripening processes. The ripening process is +destroyed by heating and this is to be desired for drying purposes. + +Blanching kills the cells and thus prevents the hay-like flavor so +often noticed in unblanched products. It prevents changes after +drying, which otherwise will occur unless the water content is reduced +to about five per cent. + +Thorough blanching makes the product absolutely sanitary; no insect +eggs exist after blanching and cold-dipping. + +There is one precaution that must be followed: Do not blanch too long. +Blanching too long seems to break down the cell structure, so that the +product cannot be restored to its original color, shape or size. +Follow the blanching time-table for drying just as carefully as you +follow the blanching time-table for canning. + +After the blanching comes the cold-dip. For the benefit of new canning +and drying enthusiasts, let me explain that by "cold-dip" we mean +plunging the product immediately into a pan of very cold water or +holding it under the cold-water faucet until the product is thoroughly +cooled. Do not let the product stand in cold water, as it would then +lose more food value and absorb too much water. + +You can cold-dip the product without removing it from the colander, +strainer or steamer in which it is steamed. Plunge the vessel +containing the product into the cold water. + +The cold-dipping checks the cooking, sets the coloring matter which +was started to flowing in the blanching process, and it makes the +product much easier to handle. + +Let us now see just exactly what we must do when we want to dry sweet +corn, more of which is dried than of any other vegetable. All other +vegetables are dried in the same way as is corn, the only difference +being in the length of the blanching and drying period. + +All vegetables are prepared for drying just as they are prepared for +table use. When drying corn select ears that are young and tender, and +if possible freshly gathered. Products for drying should be in the +same perfect condition as you have them for table use. If wilted and +old it is not worth while drying them. + +Remove the husks and the silk, and steam--on the cob--for fifteen +minutes. This sets the milk, besides doing many other things which +blanching by steam always does. After the steaming, cold-dip the corn, +and then cut it from the cob, using a very sharp and flexible knife. +Cut the grains fine, but only halfway down to the cob; scrape out the +remainder of the grains, being careful not to scrape off any of the +chaff next to the cob. + +When field corn is used, the good, plump cooking stage is the proper +degree of ripeness for satisfactory drying. + +The corn should be thoroughly drained as this facilitates drying. You +can easily remove all surface moisture by placing the corn between +two towels and patting them. + +It is now ready for drying. The corn may be dried in the sun, but if +so, it is advisable first to dry it in the oven for ten or fifteen +minutes and then finish the drying in the sun. Never attempt sun +drying in moist weather. The corn may be dried by artificial heat, +either on top of the stove or in the oven, using either plates, +oven-racks properly covered, or any commercial dryer. + +Work quickly after the blanching and cold-dipping and get the corn +heated as quickly as possible in order to prevent souring. You get +"flat-sour" often when canning if you do not work quickly enough, and +you will get sour vegetables in drying if you work too slowly. + +Where artificial heat is used begin at a lower temperature and +gradually increase it. As the corn is drying, stir it from time to +time and readjust the trays if necessary. + +After the drying comes the test to determine whether or not the corn +is sufficiently dry. Vegetables at this point differ from fruits. +Fruits are dried only until leathery, whereas vegetables are dried +until they are bone-dry. They must crackle and snap. + +This test is sometimes used to see if the product is sufficiently dry: +Put some of it in a covered glass jar with a crisp soda cracker and +keep them there for a few hours. If the cracker loses its crispness +and becomes soft and damp there is still too much moisture in the +product and it should be dried a little longer to obtain the degree of +dryness required. + +After the corn is bone-dry it should, like all other vegetables and +fruits, be conditioned. This means to pour them from one bag or box +to another, once a day for three or four days. This enables you to +notice any moisture that may be left in the dried food. Foods that +show any traces of moisture should be returned to the drying tray for +a short time. + +Notice Lima beans particularly, as they require a longer conditioning +period than most vegetables. + +After the conditioning, in order to kill all insects and destroy all +eggs, it is advisable to place the vegetables on trays and heat them +in an oven for half an hour at a temperature of 140 degrees +Fahrenheit. Store directly from the oven. + +Dried vegetables are stored just as are dried fruits--in cans, cracked +jars that cannot be used for canning, fiber containers, cheesecloth, +paper bags or paraffin containers. + +In storing your dried products keep in mind these things: Protection +from moisture, insects, rats, mice, dust and light. If you observe all +these things it is unnecessary to have air-tight containers. + +All varieties of string beans can be dried, but only those fit for +table use should be used. Old, stringy, tough beans will remain the +same kind of beans when dried. There are two ways of preparing string, +wax or snap beans for drying: + +1. Wash; remove stem, tip and string. Cut or break into pieces +one-half to one inch long; blanch three to ten minutes, according to +age and freshness, in steam; cold-dip. Place on trays or dryer. If you +have a vegetable slicer it can be used for slicing the beans. + +2. Prepare as above, then blanch the whole beans. After cold-dipping, +thread them on coarse, strong thread, making long "necklaces" of +them; hang them above the stove or out of doors until dry. + +Lima beans should be shelled from the pod and then blanched two to +five minutes if young and tender. If larger and more mature blanch +five to ten minutes. + +Okra is blanched for three minutes. If the pods are young and small, +dry them whole. Older pods should be cut into quarter-inch slices. +Small tender pods are sometimes strung on stout thread and hung up to +dry. + +Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, removing the seed, +drying in the air, and finishing the drying in the dryer at 130 +degrees Fahrenheit. A more satisfactory method is to place peppers in +a biscuit pan in the oven and heat until the skins blister; or to +steam them until the skin softens, peel, split in half, take out seed, +and dry at 110 to 130 degrees. In drying thick-fleshed peppers like +the pimento, do not increase heat too quickly, but dry slowly and +evenly. + +Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until wilted +and the drying finished in the dryer, or they may be dried entirely in +the sun. + +Peppers often are dried whole. If large they can be strung on thread; +if small the whole plant can be hung up to dry. + +Shell full-grown peas and blanch three to five minutes; cold-dip and +then spread in a single layer on trays to dry. + +When drying the very tender young sugar peas, use the pod also. Wash +and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Blanch six minutes, cold-dip and +remove surplus moisture before drying. When drying beets always select +young, quickly grown, tender beets. Steam twenty to thirty minutes, or +until the skin cracks. Dip in cold water, peel and slice into +one-eighth to one-quarter inch slices. Then dry. + +Carrots having a large, woody core should not be dried. Blanch six +minutes; cold-dip. Carrots are often sliced lengthwise into pieces +about one-eighth inch thick. Parsnips, kohl-rabi, celeriac and salsify +are prepared in the same way as are carrots. + +Onions should be held under water while peeling and slicing to avoid +smarting of the eyes. They should be sliced into one-eighth to +one-quarter inch slices. Blanch five minutes, cold-dip, remove +superfluous moisture and dry. Leeks are handled as are onions. + +Select well-developed heads of cabbage and remove all loose outside +leaves. Split the cabbage, remove the hard, woody core and slice the +remainder of the head with a kraut slicer or cutter or with a large, +sharp knife. Blanch five to ten minutes and cold-dip; dry. + +Spinach and parsley should be carefully washed. Steam, cold-dip and +dry. If the spinach is sliced the drying will be greatly facilitated. +Beet tops, Swiss chard and celery are prepared like spinach. + +Select sound, well-matured Irish potatoes. Wash and boil or steam +until nearly done. Peel and pass through a meat grinder or a potato +ricer. Collect the shred in layers on a tray and dry until brittle. If +toasted slightly in an oven when dry, the flavor is improved somewhat; +or boil or steam until nearly done, peel, cut into quarter-inch +slices, spread on trays, and dry until brittle. Peeling may be +omitted, but the product will be very much inferior in flavor. Irish +potatoes cannot be satisfactorily dried unless they are first cooked; +otherwise they will discolor. + +All root vegetables must be thoroughly cleaned, otherwise an earthy +flavor may cling to them. One decayed root may seriously affect +several pots of vegetable soup. + + +GENERAL SUGGESTIONS + +1. All vegetables should be completely dried in from two to +twenty-four hours. + +2. Materials should be turned or stirred several times to secure a +uniform product. + +3. If heat is used guard against scorching. The door is left open if +an oven is used; the temperature should be about 110 degrees at the +beginning and usually should not exceed 130 degrees. Onions, string +beans and peas will yellow at more than 140 degrees. + +4. A thermometer is essential to successful drying by artificial heat. + +5. It is impossible to give definite lengths of times for the +completion of sun drying, as this varies not only with different +products but with the weather. A sultry, rainy day is the worst for +drying. + +6. Vegetables should be stone dry. + +7. Succulent vegetables and fruits contain from 80 to 95 per cent of +water, and when dried sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per +cent; so it is a good plan to weigh before and after drying as a +check. The product should lose from two-thirds to four-fifths of its +weight. + +8. Work rapidly to prevent souring of vegetables. + +9. Small vegetables, mature beans and peas and small onions may be +dried whole. Larger vegetables should be cut up so as to expose more +surface for drying. + +10. The slicing, cutting and shredding should be done before +blanching, with the exception of corn, which is cut from the cob after +blanching. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING VEGETABLES + + +[A] BLANCHING BY STEAM, TIME ON MINUTES + +[B] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° F. APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + +[C] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] + | | + ASPARAGUS |Wash and cut into pieces| 2 to 4 | 4 to 8 |12 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, | | | | + GREEN | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + STRING | and string | 3 to 10 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, WAX | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + | and string; cut into | | | + | pieces or dry whole | 3 to 10 | 2 to 4 | 5 to 8 + | | | | + BEETS | Leave skin on while |[1]20 to 30| 2½ to 3 |12 to 16 + | steaming | | | + BRUSSELS | | | | + SPROUTS |Divide into small pieces| 6 | 3 to 5 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CABBAGE |Remove all loose outside| | | + | leaves; split cabbage | | | + | and remove woody core; | 5 to 10 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | slice or shred | | | + | | | | + CARROTS | Wash; slice lengthwise | | | + | into pieces 1/8-inch | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | thick | | | + | | | | + CAULIFLOWER|Clean; divide into small| | | + | bunches | 6 | 2 to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERY | Wash carefully and | | | + | remove leaves; slice | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERIAC |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + CORN, SWEET| Blanch on cob. From 12 | | | + |ears of corn you should | | | + | obtain 1 pound dried | 15 | 3 to 4 | 2 days + | corn | | | + | | | | + KOHL-RABI |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 2½ to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LEEKS | Cut into ½-inch strips | 5 | 2½ to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (YOUNG) | Shell | 2 to 5 | 3 to 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (OLD) | Shell | 5 to 10 | 3 to 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + MUSHROOMS | Wash; cut into pieces | 5 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | | | | + OKRA | Dry young pods whole. | | | + | Cut old pods in ¼-inch | 3 | 2 to 3 |12 to 20 + | slices | | | + | | | | + ONIONS | Remove outside papery | | | + | covering; cut off tops | | | + | and roots; slice thin | 5 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + PARSNIPS | Clean; pare; cut into | | | + | ½-inch slices | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + PEAS | Can be dried whole or | | | + | put through grinder | 3 to 5 | 3½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + PEPPERS |Skin blistered in oven, | | | + |steamed or sun-withered | .. | 3 to 4 | 24 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and rice them | .. | 2½ | 5 to 6 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and slice them | | | + | ¼-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and rice them | .. | 2½ |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and slice them | | | + | ¼-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + PUMPKINS | | | | + AND SQUASH | Cut into 1/3-inch | | | + | strips; peel; remove | 3 | 3 to 4 | 16 + | seeds | | | + | | | | + SPINACH |Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + SALSIFY | Wash; cut into ½-inch | 6 | 2½ to 3 |20 to 24 + | slices | | | + | + SWISS CHARD|Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 18 + | | | | + TOMATOES | Wash; slice after | | | + |steaming to loosen skin | 2 to 3 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + TURNIPS | Pare and slice thin | 5 | 2½ to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + +[Footnote 1: Till skin cracks.] + +In a properly constructed sun drier vegetables will dry in from 3 to +12 hours under normal summer conditions. Products dried in a sun drier +are superior to those dried in the open without any protection. +Products dry more quickly in high altitudes than at sea level. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + +We have learned how to preserve fruit and vegetables by canning and +drying and now we are going to learn another method to preserve foods, +in which salt is used. We use this salt method for vegetables. It is +not adapted to fruits. We may pickle apples, pears and peaches, but we +ferment, brine and dry-salt only vegetables. + +This salt method is not a substitute for drying or canning, but just +an additional method we may employ. Every thrifty housewife of to-day +wants her shelves of canned foods, her boxes of dried foods and her +crocks of salted foods. Each kind has its proper function to perform +in the household. One cannot take the place of the other. + +For women on the farm salting is a salvation. In busy seasons when +canning and drying seem an impossibility, a great many vegetables can +be saved by this method in a very short time. The labor required is +very small, as no cooking is necessary. A good supply of salt is the +one necessity. + +Besides the saving of time, salting saves jars, which are absolutely +necessary in canning. Old containers can be used if they are +thoroughly cleansed. The vegetables can be put in any container, so +long as it holds water and is not made of metal. Metal containers +should not be used. Old kegs, butter and lard tubs if water-tight, +stoneware jars or crocks, chipped preserve jars, glass jars with +missing covers and covered enamel buckets can all be utilized. Avoid +using tubs made of pitch or soft pine unless coated with melted +paraffin, as they impart a flavor to the vegetables. Maple is the +best. + + +THREE METHODS OF SALTING FOOD + +There are three ways of preserving food by salting: First, +fermentation with dry salting; second, fermentation in brine or +brining; and third, salting without fermentation, or dry salting. + +Dry Salting. Fermentation with dry salting consists in packing the +material with a small amount of salt. No water is used, for the salt +will extract the water from the vegetables and this forms a brine. +This is the simplest process of all three and is used mostly for +cabbage. To make sauerkraut proceed as follows: The outside green +leaves of the cabbage should be removed, just as in preparing the head +for boiling. Never use any decayed or bruised leaves. Quarter the +heads and shred the cabbage very finely. There are shredding machines +on the market, but if one is not available use a slaw cutter or a +large sharp knife. + +After the cabbage is shredded pack at once into a clean barrel, keg or +tub, or into an earthenware crock holding four or five gallons. The +smaller containers are recommended for household use. When packing +distribute the salt as uniformly as possible, using one pound of salt +to forty pounds of cabbage. Sprinkle a little salt in the container +and put in a layer of three or four inches of shredded cabbage, then +pack down with a wooden utensil like a potato masher. Repeat with +salt, cabbage and packing until the container is full or the shredded +cabbage is all used. + +Press the cabbage down as tightly as possible and apply a cloth, and +then a glazed plate or a board cover which will go inside the holder. +If using a wooden cover select wood free from pitch, such as basswood. +On top of this cover place stone, bricks or other weights--use flint +or granite; avoid the use of limestone, sandstone or marble. These +weights serve to keep vegetables beneath the surface of the liquid. +The proportion of salt to food when fermenting with dry salt is a +quarter pound of salt to ten pounds of food. Do not use more, for the +product will taste too salty. + +Allow fermentation to proceed for ten days or two weeks, if the room +is warm. In a cellar or other cool place three to five weeks may be +required. Skim off the film which forms when fermentation starts and +repeat this daily if necessary to keep this film from becoming a scum. +When gas bubbles cease to rise when you strike the side of the +container, fermentation is complete. If there is a scum it should be +removed. + +As a final step pour very hot melted paraffin over the brine until it +forms a layer from a quarter to a half-inch thick, to prevent the +formation of the scum which occurs if the weather is warm or the +storage place is not well cooled. The cabbage may be used as soon as +the bubbles cease to rise. If scum forms and remains the cabbage will +spoil. You may can the cabbage as soon as bubbles cease to rise and +fermentation is complete. To can, fill jars, adjust rubbers and partly +seal. Sterilize 120 minutes in hot-water bath, or 60 minutes in +steam-pressure outfit at five to ten pounds pressure. + +The vital factor in preserving the material by this method is the +lactic acid which develops in fermentation. + +If the vegetables are covered with a very strong brine or are packed +with a fairly large amount of salt, lactic acid fermentation and also +the growth of other forms of bacteria and molds are prevented. This +method of preservation is especially applicable to those vegetables +which contain so little sugar that sufficient lactic acid cannot be +formed by bacterial action to insure their preservation. + +In the well-known method of vinegar pickling the acetic acid of the +vinegar acts as a preservative like the lactic acid produced by +fermentation. Sometimes brining precedes pickling in vinegar, and +often the pickling is modified by the addition of sugar and spices, +which add flavor as well as helping to preserve the fruit or +vegetables. In some cases olive oil or some other table oil is added +to the vinegar, as in the making of oil cucumber pickles. + +Besides sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, greens, kale +and dandelions are adapted for fermentation with dry salting. String +beans should be young, tender and not overgrown. Remove the tip ends +and strings; cut or break into pieces about two inches long. Wash the +beet and turnip tops as well as all greens, in order to remove dirt +and grit. Weigh all products that are to be salted. + +For salting, a supply of ordinary fine salt, which can be purchased in +bulk for about two cents a pound, is most satisfactory for general +use. Table salt will do very well, but it is rather expensive if large +quantities of vegetables are to be preserved. The rather coarse +salt--known in the trade as "ground alum salt"--which is used in +freezing ice cream can be used. Rock salt because of its coarseness +and impurities should not be used. + +A weight must be used. The size of the weight depends on the quantity +of material being preserved. For a five-gallon keg a weight of ten +pounds will be sufficient, but if a larger barrel is used a heavier +weight will be needed. The weight should be sufficient to extract the +juices to form a brine, which will cover the top in about twenty-four +hours. If a brine does not form it may be necessary to add more stones +after the material has stood a while. + +There always will be more or less bubbling and foaming of the brine +during the first stages of fermentation. After this ceases a thin film +will appear which will rapidly spread over the whole surface and +quickly develop into a heavy, folded membrane. This scum is a growth +of yeast-like organisms which feed upon the acid formed by +fermentation. If allowed to grow undisturbed it will eventually +destroy all the acid and the fermented material will spoil. To prevent +mold from forming it is necessary to exclude the air from the surface +of the brine. + +Perhaps the best method is to cover the surface--over the board and +round the weight--with very hot, melted paraffin. If the paraffin is +hot enough to make the brine boil when poured in, the paraffin will +form a smooth, even layer before hardening. Upon solidifying, it forms +an air-tight seal. Oils, such as cottonseed oil or the tasteless +liquid petroleum, may also be used for this purpose. As a measure of +safety with crocks, it is advisable to cover the top with a cloth +soaked in melted paraffin. Put the cover in place before the paraffin +hardens. + +After sealing with paraffin the containers should be set where they +will not be disturbed until the contents are to be used. Any attempt +to remove them from one place to another may break the paraffin seal +and necessitate resealing. + +Some vegetables which do not contain sufficient water are better +fermented by covering them with a weak brine. Those which are the most +satisfactory when fermented in this way are cucumbers, string beans, +green tomatoes, beets, beet tops, turnip tops, corn and green peas. +The general directions for this brining are as follows: + +Wash the vegetables, drain off the surplus water and pack them in a +keg, crock, or other utensil until it is nearly full--within about +three inches of the top of the vessel. Prepare a weak brine as +follows: To each gallon of water used add one-half pint of vinegar and +three-fourths of a cup of salt and stir until the salt is entirely +dissolved. The vinegar is used primarily to keep down the growth of +injurious bacteria until the lactic-acid ferment starts, but it also +adds to the flavor. Spices may be added if desired. + +The amount of brine necessary to cover the vegetables will be equal to +about one-half the volume of the material to be fermented. For +example, if a five-gallon keg is to be packed, two and one-half +gallons will be needed. It is best to make up at one time all the +brine needed on one day. A clean tub or barrel can be used for mixing +the brine. Pour the brine over the vegetables and cover. Set the +vessel and its contents away in a moderately warm room to ferment. + +When fermentation ceases, the container should be placed in a cool +cellar or storeroom and the surface of the liquid treated to prevent +mold. Before adding the paraffin or cottonseed oil, any scum or mold +which may have formed on the surface of the liquid should be removed +by skimming. + +These general directions can always be followed with successful +results, but some modifications are desirable for certain vegetables. + +Cucumbers--Dill Style. To pickle cucumbers wash the cucumbers and +pack into a clean, water-tight barrel, keg or crock. On the bottom of +the barrel place a layer of dill weed and a handful of mixed spice. +Add another layer of dill and another handful of spice when the barrel +is half full, and when almost full, add a third layer. If a keg or +crock is used, the amount of dill and spice can be reduced in +proportion to the size of the receptacle. When the container has been +filled to within a few inches of the top, add a layer of covering +material--beet leaves or grape leaves--about an inch thick. If any +spoilage should occur on the surface, this layer will protect the +vegetables beneath. Press down with a clean board weighted with bricks +or stone. + +Make the brine as given in the general rules. Add sufficient brine to +cover the material and allow it to stand twenty-four hours. Then make +air-tight. The time necessary for complete fermentation to occur +depends upon the temperature. In a warm place five days to a week may +suffice; in a cool cellar three to four weeks. + +The dill and spices may be omitted, in which case we then have plain +cucumbers. + +String Beans. Remove the ends and strings from the beans and cut +into pieces about two inches long; pack in the container; cover with +brine and ferment. + +Green Tomatoes. Green tomatoes should be packed whole and prepared +as cucumbers. The dill and spice may be added if desired. + +Beets. Beets must be scrubbed thoroughly and packed whole. If peeled +or sliced before being fermented the beets lose considerable color and +flavor. + +Beet Tops and Turnip Tops. These should be washed thoroughly and +packed into the container without being cut up. + +Peas. Green peas should be shelled and packed in the same way as +string beans. It is advisable to use fairly small containers for peas, +so that the quantity opened up will be used before it has a chance to +spoil. + +Corn. Husk and clean the silk from the corn; wash and place the ears +on end in the jar, packing the jar nearly full. Pour the brine over +the ears; add cover and weights. Fermented corn has a sour taste, +which may not be relished if the corn is eaten alone. For this reason +it will be preferable in most cases to preserve corn by canning, +drying or by salting without fermentation. Fermented corn, however, +may be used in the preparation of some dishes, such as chowders, +omelets, and so forth, where its flavor will be masked to some extent +by the other ingredients. To some people this peculiar acid taste of +fermented corn is not at all objectionable. + +Salting Without Fermentation. In this method the vegetables are +packed with enough salt to prevent fermentation or the growth of +yeasts or molds. The vegetables preserved most satisfactorily by this +method are dandelions, beet tops, turnip tops, spinach, kale, chard, +cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, green peas and corn. The following +directions should be followed: + +The vegetables should be washed, drained and weighed. The amount of +salt needed will be a quarter of the weight of the vegetables. Kegs or +crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a layer of vegetables about +an inch thick on the bottom of the container. Cover this with salt. +Continue making alternate layers of vegetables and salt until the +container is almost filled. The salt should be evenly distributed so +that it will not be necessary to use more salt than the quantity +required in proportion to the weights of the vegetables that are used. + +Cover the surface with a cloth, and a board of glazed plate. Place a +weight on these and set aside in a cool place. If sufficient liquor to +cover the vegetables has not been extracted pour in enough strong +brine--one pound of salt to two quarts of water--to cover the surface +round the corner. + +The top layer of vegetables should be kept under the brine to prevent +molding. There will be some bubbling at first. As soon as this stops, +set the container where it will not be disturbed until ready for use. +Seal by pouring very hot paraffin over the surface. + +String beans should be cut in two-inch pieces. Peas should be shelled. +Cabbage should be shredded in the same way as for sauerkraut. Corn, +however, requires somewhat different treatment, and the directions for +salting it are as follows: + +Salted Corn. Husk the ears of corn and remove the silk. Cook in +boiling water for about ten minutes to set the milk. Cut off the corn +from the cob with a sharp knife. Weigh the corn and pack in layers +with a quarter its weight of fine salt, as described above. + +Some experts insist on blanching and cold-dipping all vegetables for +dry-salting without fermentation. They say that, though it is not +necessary, it makes the tissues softer and consequently they are more +easily penetrated by the salt. Furthermore, when preparing these +products for the table the salt soaks out more readily and the +products cook much more quickly if they have been blanched. So where +there is time it seems advisable to blanch for five minutes for +dry-salting. + +If properly prepared and stored, fermented, brined and dry-salted +products will keep for a long time. It is absolutely necessary to +prevent mold from growing on the surface of the brine of fermented +vegetables, by the addition of paraffin or in some other way. +Protection of the surface of dry-salted vegetables is desirable, but +not necessary if the containers are covered to prevent the evaporation +of the brine. Most trouble with the fermented or salted products may +be traced to carelessness in protecting the surface of the brine. + + +POINTS TO REMEMBER + +These are the special things to remember about fermentation, brining +and dry-salting: + +1. For fermentation, such as in making sauerkraut, use a quarter pound +of salt to ten pounds of food material. For every 100 pounds of food +add two and a half pounds of salt. + +2. For brining use three-quarters of a cupful of salt and one cupful +of vinegar to each gallon of water. + +3. For dry-salting use one pound of salt to four pounds of food. + +4. Do not use vinegar, pickle or pork barrels as containers for salted +foods unless they are very thoroughly scalded. + +5. Thoroughly scald all containers, covers, weights and cloths before +using. + +6. If using glass jars put a cork inside to press the food down. If +white vaseline is rubbed on the rubber rings the solution will not get +through rubber and be lost. + +7. After adding salt or brine for fermented foods, cover the food +material with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth six inches larger in +diameter than the diameter of the container. Tuck this in round the +top of the food, cover with weight and adjust lid of container. + +8. During fermentation keep the cover on loosely until all bubbles +cease. Test by slightly knocking container to see if any bubbles +appear on the surface. + +9. When you have made this test and discovered that the bubbling has +ceased, then it is time to protect the food from all organisms which +destroy lactic acid. + +10. To protect the food cover with hot melted paraffin or liquid oil. + +11. If evaporation takes place, add water or brine to make up the +original amount of water. + +12. When dry sealing is used let the product stand twenty-four to +thirty-six hours, then add strong brine to fill the containers. The +water from the vegetables usually only half fills the containers. + +TABLE FOR PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY SALT + + + METHODS |VEGETABLES ADAPTED| AMOUNT OF SALT | OTHER + | TO METHOD | | INGREDIENTS + | | | NEEDED + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + I. Dry |Cabbage, which is |¼-lb. salt to 10 | No other. + salting with |converted by this | lbs. food or 2½ | + fermentation.| method into |lbs. salt to 100 | + |sauerkraut, string| lbs. food. | + |beans, beet tops, | | + | turnip tops, | | + | greens, kale and | | + | dandelions. | | + | | | + II. |Cucumbers, string | ¾-cup salt, 1 |Dill and spices + Fermentation | beans, green | gallon water, 1 |can be added. 1 + with brine. | tomatoes, beets, | cup vinegar for |lb. dry dill or + | beet tops, corn |brine. Amount of | 2 lbs. green + | and green peas. |brine required is| dill and 1 oz. + | |equal to ½ volume| spices for a + | | of food. |4-gallon crock. + | | | + III. Dry | Dandelions, beet | 25 lbs. salt to | Blanch and + salting |tops, turnip tops,|100 lbs. of food.| cold-dip + without | spinach, kale, |Salt should be ¼ | vegetables for + fermentation.| chard, cabbage, | weight of | five minutes + | cauliflower, | vegetable. | before dry + | string beans, | | salting. + | green peas, and | | + | corn. | | + | | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + +Many farmers seem to have more trouble with the curing of meats than +with the slaughtering. This part of the work is indeed very important +as it determines whether one will have good tasting cured meat or meat +that is too salty or possibly that is far removed from the original +taste of the raw product. + +It is worth every farmer or farmerette's attention to spend some time +on this problem as it pays so well in the resulting, good tasting +meat. Why not have a superior grade of home-cured meat as easily as a +poor grade? Work carefully and accurately done will produce good +results while work slovenly or carelessly done can produce nothing but +poor results. To cure meat so that it is not only delicious but has +good keeping qualities is an art and accomplishment worth striving +for. A pride in this work is just as fine and worth while as the +housewife's pride in her culinary skill or the pride of any other +professional in his or her line of work. To-day we are thinking of +food and its problems as never before and it behooves us all to put +more time, thought, care and skill on all things that pertain to +foods. And as meat is such an essential item in our diet, meat +problems should receive their due attention. + +All meat that is to be cured should always be thoroughly cooled and +cut into the desired convenient sizes before it is put into the brine +or packed in dry salt. + +The pieces most commonly used for curing are the ham, shoulder and +bacon pieces from pork. From beef we use the cheaper, tougher cuts +such as the plate, shoulder and chuck ribs. Mutton is seldom cured and +preserved. + +The ham should be cut off at the hock joint, the spare ribs taken out +of the bacon, and the ragged edges trimmed off smooth. If ragged edges +or scraggy ends are left these portions will become too dry in the +curing and will practically be wasted. + +After all the animal heat is removed from the meat and it is properly +cut it is then ready for the curing. If salt is put on the meat before +the animal heat is all removed, it will have a tendency to shrink the +muscles and form a coating on the outside which will not allow the +generating gases to escape. Meat should never be in a frozen condition +when the salt is added as the frost will prevent the proper +penetration of the brine and uneven curing will be the result. + + +METHODS OF CURING MEAT + +The two most common methods of curing meat are first the brine or +sugar cure process and second the dry-curing process. For general farm +use the brine cured process is the better. It requires less time, less +effort and not such an exacting place for the work. On most farms it +is impossible to secure a desirable place in which to do the +dry-curing as the meat is exposed to rats, cats, flies and other +insects. The dry-curing requires considerable time to rub and salt the +meat at different times while the only attention that is necessary for +brine-curing is to properly prepare and pack the meat in the vessel +and prepare the brine for it. + + +UTENSILS FOR CURING + +If possible use a round container for the curing. It is easier to put +the meat in tightly, and the space can be used to better advantage. A +hardwood barrel of some kind is excellent. Sirup, molasses or lard +barrels which have been thoroughly cleaned are very satisfactory. If +you use a vinegar or an oil barrel it should be well burned on the +inside before using. Stone crocks or jars are sometimes used but they +are expensive and cumbersome to handle besides the constant danger of +loss of brine from breakage. + + +PRESERVATIVES + +For curing the meat the farmer usually uses salt, salt peter, white or +brown sugar or molasses. These are the necessary preservatives. The +others such as boracic acid, borax and soda are often used for +sweetening the brine and to keep it from spoiling but are not +absolutely essential. The salt extracts moisture and acts as a +preservative. The sugar or molasses imparts a nice flavor and has a +tendency to keep the muscle tissue soft in contrast to the salt, which +has a tendency to make it hard and dry. So the salt and sugar have two +distinct functions to perform, the one to harden and preserve, the +other to soften and sweeten. If you have a favorite recipe that has +proved satisfactory and you want to use sorghum or molasses instead of +sugar add one pound more of the molasses. If you have been accustomed +to using 2 pounds of sugar then use 3 pounds of the other sweetening. + +Salt peter is not absolutely necessary as far as the preserving is +concerned but it helps to hold the red color of the lean meat. If salt +peter is not used the lean meat will be gray in color. It may possibly +be a little tenderer if the salt peter is not used as the salt peter +tends to harden the meat. Chili salt peter can be substituted in place +of salt peter, if only four-fifths as much is used. + + +THE SUGAR BRINE CURE + +All formulas for the sugar brine cure are practically the same varying +only a little in the proportions of sugar, salt and salt peter. If you +have a formula that you have tried for years and have found it to be +satisfactory there is no reason you should attempt a new one. But for +those who want to try a different formula or recipe I will give you +this reliable one that is widely used and indorsed by several +agricultural colleges. + +The container should be scalded thoroughly. Sprinkle a layer of salt +over the bottom and over each layer of meat as it is packed in, skin +down. When full, cover meat with boards and weight down with a stone +so that all will be below the brine, which is made as follows: + +Weigh out for each 100 pounds of meat, 8 pounds of salt, 2 pounds of +sugar (preferably brown) or 3 pounds of molasses, and 2 ounces of salt +peter. Dissolve all in 4 gallons of water. This should be boiled, and +when thoroughly cooled, cover the meat. Seven days after brine is put +on, meat should be repacked in another barrel in reverse order. The +pieces that were on top should be placed on the bottom. The brine is +poured over as before. This is repeated on the fourteenth and +twenty-first days, thus giving an even cure to all pieces. Bacon +should remain in the brine from four to six weeks, and hams six to +eight weeks, depending on the size of the pieces. When cured, each +piece should be scrubbed with tepid water and hung to drain several +days before smoking; no two pieces should come in contact. For all +curing always use dairy salt and _not table_ salt, as the latter +contains starch to keep it dry and this starch may cause the meat to +spoil. If you carefully follow these directions you will have +delicious sugar-cured hams and bacon. + + +CORNED BEEF + +It is desirable to have an ample supply of corned beef on hand. For +this any part of the beef may be used but the parts usually selected +are the plate, rump, cross-ribs and brisket, which are the tougher +cuts of the meat. The brisket and plate are especially good because of +the character of the fat, which is somewhat like a tissue. Cut all +around the meat to about the same thickness, so that it will make an +even layer in the barrel. It is best to remove the bone, although this +is not necessary. Be sure to start the pickling or curing while the +meat is perfectly fresh, but well chilled. Do not wait like some +farmers do until they think the meat is beginning to spoil and then +salt it down just to save it. Allow ten pounds of dairy salt to each +100 pounds of meat. Sprinkle a layer of the salt in the bottom of the +crock, barrel, or whatever container is used. Have the salt about +one-fourth of an inch in depth. After the layer is in the bottom of +the container put the cuts of meat in as closely as possible, making +the layer five or six inches in thickness, then put on another layer +of salt, following that with another layer of meat. Repeat until the +meat and salt have all been packed in the barrel, care being taken to +reserve salt enough for a good layer on the top. Cover the meat with a +board and weight down with a stone and _not_ an _iron_ weight. Do not +allow any meat to project from the salt or mold will start and the +brine will spoil in a short time. Let the meat stand over-night. + +Prepare a brine by boiling 7 pounds salt, 3 pounds brown sugar or 6 +pounds molasses, 2 ounces baking soda, 2 ounces salt peter and 4 +gallons water for every 100 pounds of meat. This quantity of brine +should be sufficient to cover that amount. + +Remove any scum that rises to the surface and filter the hot brine +through muslin. Set the brine aside, best over-night, to become +perfectly cold before using. In the morning tip the container in which +the meat is packed so that all liquor which has separated from the +meat over night may drain off. Cover the meat with the cold brine. Put +the container in a cool place. The curing will be more satisfactory if +the meat is left at a temperature of about 38 degrees F. Never let the +temperature go above 50 degrees F. and there is some risk with even a +temperature of 40 degrees F. if it is continuous. The sugar or +molasses in the brine has a tendency to ferment in a warm place. + +After about five days the meat should be overhauled and repacked, +putting the pieces which were previously on the bottom on top. Pour +back the same brine, and five days later repeat the overhauling. This +may seem like some trouble and possibly look like a useless waste of +time but it is well worth while as it insures a more rapid and uniform +curing of the meat. + +When unpacking the meat watch the brine to see that it is not ropy or +moldy. If you find either condition existing remove the meat and rinse +each piece with cold water and after scalding the container pack the +meat as at first with a little salt. Scald and skim the brine and +after it is cold pour it on the meat as before. You can use corned +beef if necessary after a week in the cure, but it is not thoroughly +cured until it has been from 20 to 30 days in the brine. If kept for +sixty days it will be salty enough to need freshening before cooking. + +If the meat has been corned during the winter, and is to be kept until +summer, watch the brine closely during the spring as it is more likely +to spoil then than at any other time. + + +PLAIN SALT PORK + +Rub each piece of meat with dairy salt, and pack closely in a +container. Let stand over-night. The next day weigh out ten pounds of +salt and two ounces of salt peter for each 100 pounds of meat, and +dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. Pour this brine, when cold, +over the meat, cover, and weight the meat down to keep it under the +brine. The pork should be kept in the brine until used. + + +SMOKING CURED MEATS + +Of course many farmers never attempt to smoke their cured meats but +use them directly from the brine but if possible it is more +satisfactory to smoke them before using for several reasons. First, +the process of smoking helps to preserve the meat. The creosote formed +by the combustion of the wood closes the pores of the meat to a great +extent thus excluding the air and helping it to keep and at the same +time makes the meat objectionable to insects. In the second place, +pickled or cured meats taste better and are more palatable if smoked. +Of course the smoking must be properly done and the right kind of fuel +must be used. + +The Smokehouse and the Smoke. It is not necessary to have a regular +smokehouse--although it is a delightful addition to any farm. Here +again a community meat ring is of great advantage. One smokehouse will +answer for many families. This is the ideal arrangement and it can +easily be managed if you are progressive and anxious enough to supply +your family with delicious meat the year around saving time and money. + +If, however, you have to do your own smoking and smoke only a small +quantity at a time a barrel or box will answer. Overheating of the +meat must be guarded against. + +Green hickory or any of the hardwoods or maple should be used for the +smoking. Pine or any other resinous woods should not be used as they +give a disagreeable flavor to the meat. If it is impossible to get +hardwood use corncobs rather than soft wood. The corncobs will leave a +dirty deposit on the meat, which is carbon. It is not objectionable +only from the standpoint of "looks." The meat which you are going to +smoke should be removed from the brine the day before the smoking. A +half hour soaking in cold water prevents a crust of salt from forming +on the outside. Do not hang the meat so that any two pieces touch as +this would prevent uniform smoking. + +Always start with a slow fire so as to warm the meat up gradually. +Thirty-six to forty-eight hours of heat as near 120 degrees F. as +possible will be sufficient under most circumstances. + +How to Store Smoked Meats. A dry, cool cellar or attic where there +is good circulation is a good place for storage. If the meat is to be +used soon the meat can hang without coverings but for long keeping you +will have to wrap it when cold in waxed paper and then in burlap, +muslin or canvas bags and then hang it, after it is tied very tightly +to prevent insects from getting in, in a room with a cool uniform +temperature. + +Some farmers get satisfactory results by wrapping the meats in strong +bags and then burying them in oat bins. + + +SAUSAGE + +Frequently when animals are butchered on the farm there are often +wholesome portions of the carcass that are not used. All trimmings, +cheeks, liver, tongue, breast and other pieces can be made into +bologna, headcheese or some other form of sausage. Sausage making is +an art worth acquiring. There is always a good demand for fresh and +smoked country sausage, so if you wish to sell some you will have no +trouble in finding a market for your product if it is a good one. + +To make sausage you should have a meat grinder, which is an absolute +essential on every farm. If you do not have one already then buy a No. +22 or No. 32. + +In addition to the grinder you will need a stuffer attachment which +costs very little. A knife, cord, string, a clean tube and casings or +muslin bags will complete your equipment. The muslin bags can be of +any size but the easiest to handle are 12 inches long and 2 inches in +diameter. If the sausage is stuffed into these bags they must be +paraffined for home use. If you do not want to bother with casings or +bags put the sausage in stone crocks or tin pans with a layer of lard +or paraffin on top. + +The best sausage is made by using 3 parts of lean meat to one of fat. +When using the grinder, distribute the lean and fat meat as uniformly +as possible. + +You are not necessarily limited to pork sausage, for there are many +other delicious varieties you can make. They vary in the different +kinds of meat used and in the different seasonings and spices. + +Breakfast sausage has bread added to it; frankfurters are smoked pork +sausage in casings; liver sausage has pork and beef or veal and bread +in it; and blood sausage, as its name suggests, has blood (preferably +from a hog) added to it. Then there is tomato sausage which is made of +pulp from fresh tomatoes, pork sausage and crackers. Summer sausage is +made in the winter and kept for use during the summer. After being +dried and cured it will keep for months. Brain sausage is delicious. +To make it calves' brains are mixed with lean pork. Cambridge sausage +has rice added to it. + +Headcheese is usually made from the hog's head but odds and ends also +can be used not only from pork but from beef and veal. + +Scrapple usually means the head and feet of hogs but it can be made +from any hog meat. It is a good food as it uses cornmeal. It makes a +change from fried mush and most men working on a farm relish it. + +Sausage can be made from mutton mixed with pork in much the same way +as beef is used for similar purposes. A general formula would be 2 +parts of mutton to 3 parts pork with seasonings. + +With a plentiful supply of good home-cured and home-smoked meats, +together with several varieties of sausages, you can feel you are well +equipped to feed your family with its share of meat. Everything will +have been utilized, nothing will have been wasted. You produced your +own meat, you slaughtered and cured and smoked it and put all +trimmings and other "left-overs" into appetizing food for your family +and you have saved money. You have utilized things at hand and +required no transportation facilities. And best of all, you have the +very finest in the land for your family and that gives one a perfectly +justifiable pride in the work accomplished. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + +As one-half of the yearly egg crop is produced in March, April, May +and June consumers would do well to store enough at that time to use +when production is light. Fifty dozen eggs should be stored for a +family of five to use during the months of October, November, December +and January, at which time the market price of eggs is at the highest. + +When canning them _the eggs must be fresh_, preferably not more than +two or three days old. This is the reason why it is much more +satisfactory to put away eggs produced in one's own chicken yard or +one's neighbor's. + +Infertile eggs are best if they can be obtained--so, after the +hatching exclude the roosters from the flock and kill them for table +use as needed. + +_The shells must be clean._ Washing an egg with a soiled shell lessens +its keeping quality. The protective gelatinous covering over the shell +is removed by water and when this is gone the egg spoils more rapidly. +Use the soiled eggs for immediate use and the clean ones for storage. + +_The shells also must be free from even the tiniest crack._ One +cracked egg will spoil a large number of sound eggs when packed in +water glass. + +Earthenware crocks are good containers. _The crocks must be clean and +sound._ Scald them and let them cool completely before use. A crock +holding six gallons will accommodate eighteen dozen eggs and about +twenty-two pints of solution. Too large crocks are not desirable, +since they increase the liability of breaking some of the eggs, and +spoiling the entire batch. + +It must be remembered that the eggs on the bottom crack first and that +those in the bottom of the crock are the last to be removed for use. +Eggs can be put up in smaller crocks and the eggs put in the crock +first should be used first in the household. + + +METHOD OF STORING + +There are many satisfactory methods of storing eggs. The commercial +method is that of cold storage and if it were not for this method +winter eggs would be beyond the average purse. + +The fact that eggs have been held in cold storage does not necessarily +mean that they are of low quality. Carefully handled cold-storage eggs +often are of better quality than fresh local eggs that have been +improperly cared for. + +In the home they may be packed by several methods: Salt, oats or bran; +covering them with vaseline, butter, lard, paraffin or prepared +ointments; immersion in brine, salicylic acid, water glass (sodium +silicate) or limewater. + +Any of these methods will keep the eggs for short periods if stored in +a cool place. The salt, oats and bran are very satisfactory. The +ointments also are satisfactory. The water glass and limewater will +keep eggs without loss for a year. However, it is not wise to put down +more eggs than is necessary to tide over the period of high price. + + +WATER GLASS METHOD + +"Water glass" is known to the chemist as sodium silicate. It can be +purchased by the quart from druggists or poultry supply men. It is a +pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It is diluted in the proportion +of one part of silicate to nine parts of distilled water, rain water, +or other water. _In any case, the water should be boiled and then +allowed to cool._ Half fill the vessel with this solution and place +the eggs in it, being careful not to crack them. The eggs can be added +a few at a time until the container is filled. Be sure to keep about +two inches of water glass above the eggs. Cover the crock to prevent +evaporation and place it in the coolest place available from which the +crock will not have to be moved. Wax paper covered over and tied +around the top of the crock can be used. Inspect the crock from time +to time and replace any water that has evaporated with cool boiled +water. + + +LIMEWATER METHOD + +Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is slightly +less expensive than water glass. A solution is made by placing two or +three pounds of unslaked lime in five gallons of water, which has been +boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the mixture to stand until +the lime settles and the liquid is clear. The eggs should be placed in +a clean earthenware jar or other suitable vessel and covered to a +depth of two inches with the liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse +in clean, cold water and use immediately. + +If using the limewater method add a little of the lime sediment to +insure a constantly saturated solution. If a thin white crust appears +on the limewater solution it is due to the formation of calcium +carbonate coming in contact with the air and consequently does no +harm. + + +CANDLING EGGS AT HOME + +If you purchase the eggs that are to be stored it is safer to candle +them. Examining eggs to determine their quality is called "candling." +Every one knows that some eggs are better than others, but the ease +with which the good ones can be picked out is not generally +understood. The better the quality of eggs, the surer the housewife +can be that they will keep satisfactorily. + + +HOMEMADE CANDLER + +The equipment for candling usually consists of either a wooden, a +metal, or a cardboard box and a kerosene lamp or an electric light. A +very inexpensive egg candler for home use can be made from a large +shoe-box or similar cardboard box. Remove the ends of the box, and cut +a hole about the size of a half-dollar in one side. Slip the box over +the lamp or electric bulb, darken the room, hold the egg, with the +large end up, before the opening in the box and its quality can easily +be judged. + + +SIGNS OF A GOOD EGG + +When held before the opening of the candle, good eggs will look clear +and firm. The air cell (the white spot at the large end of the eggs) +should be small, not larger than a dime, and the yolk may be dimly +seen in the center of the egg. A large air cell and a dark, freely +moving yolk indicate that the egg is stale. + +If the shell contents appear black or very dark, the egg is +absolutely unfit for food. If you are in doubt about the quality of +any eggs you are candling break a few of them into a dish and examine +them. This is an excellent way to learn to know how good and bad eggs +look when they are being candled. + +Discard all eggs that have shrunken, loose contents, a watery +appearance, cracked and thin shells. Eggs of this description will not +keep and are apt to spoil the eggs close around them. Any egg that +floats in the solution should be discarded. + +When packing eggs whether in salt, oats, or in solution place them +with small end down. When packing them in salt, oats, etc., do not +allow any two eggs to touch. + + +PACKING THE EGGS + +One gallon of water glass as purchased will make enough preservative +to preserve from 75 to 100 dozen eggs. + +Three gallons of either water glass solution or limewater solution +will preserve from 200 to 240 dozen eggs according to the size of the +eggs and the shape of the container. + +The cost of preserving eggs by the water glass method is about one +cent per dozen eggs, not considering the cost of the container. The +lime water method is still cheaper. + +The following gives the sizes of jars with approximate capacity for +eggs and the amount of water glass solution required to cover the +eggs: + +1 gallon jar--40 eggs, 3½ pints of solution or 1¾ qt. + +2 gallon jar--80 eggs, 8 pints of solution or 2 quarts. + +3 gallon jar--120 eggs, 11 pints of solution or 5½ quarts. + +4 gallon jar--160 eggs, 14½ pints of solution or 7¼ quarts. + +5 gallon jar--200 eggs, 18 pints of solution or 9 quarts. + +6 gallon jar--216 eggs, 22 pints of solution or 11 quarts. + +10 gallon jar--400 eggs, 36 pints of solution or 18 quarts. + + +HOW TO USE PRESERVED EGGS + +When the eggs are to be used, remove them as desired, rinse in clean, +cold water, and use immediately. + +Eggs preserved in water glass can be used for soft boiling or poaching +up to November. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole in the +large end of the shell with a needle to keep them from cracking, as +the preservative seals the pores of the shell and prevents the escape +of gases, which is possible in the strictly fresh egg. + +They are satisfactory for frying until about December. From that time +until the end of the usual storage period--that is until March--they +can be used for omelettes, scrambled eggs, custards, cakes and general +cookery. As the eggs age, the white becomes thinner and is harder to +beat. The yolk membrane becomes more delicate and it is +correspondingly difficult to separate the whites from the yolks. +Sometimes the white of the egg is tinged pink after very long keeping +in water glass. This is due, probably, to a little iron which is in +the sodium silicate, but which apparently does not injure the eggs for +food purposes. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + +Towards the end of the canning season most housewives have used every +available glass jar and tin can and hesitate about purchasing a new +supply. They have dried and brined many products and yet they feel, +and rightly so, that they would like still more vegetables for winter +use. There still remains another method that they may employ to +provide themselves with a plentiful supply of vegetables and these +vegetables can be in the fresh state too. Neither canned, dried, +pickled or salted but fresh. + +Canning, drying, pickling and salting are essential and necessary but +they can not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in their +natural state is the easiest and simplest form of food preservation. +Of course, you must take proper precautions against freezing and +decay. If you do this you can have an abundant supply of many kinds of +fresh vegetables all winter, where climatic and living conditions will +permit. Storage costs but little money and little effort and yet it is +very satisfactory. + +There are many vegetables that can be stored to good advantage. They +are: Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Beans, Celery, Carrots, Chicory or +Endive, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Lima Beans, Onions, Sweet +Potatoes, Squash (Winter), Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, Tomatoes, +Turnips. + +To get good results in any kind of storage, you must observe four +things: + + 1. Proper ventilation. + 2. Proper regulation of temperature. + 3. Sufficient moisture. + 4. Good condition of vegetables when stored. + +There are six different ways to store vegetables. They are: cellar +storage, pit storage, outdoor cellar or cave storage, attic storage, +sand boxes and pantry storage. + + +CELLAR STORAGE + +We will first of all consider cellar or basement storage. One of the +most convenient places for the storage of vegetables is a cool, +well-ventilated and reasonably dry cellar underneath the house. This +cellar must have windows or some method of ventilation, must not be +too warm and not so cold that food will freeze. If there is proper +ventilation there can be some dampness without injury to the +vegetables. If your cellar or basement floods easily or has water +standing in it anywhere it should not be used for vegetable storage. + +If there is a furnace in the cellar or basement a small room as far as +possible from the heating plant should be partitioned off. Do not +build a room in the middle of the cellar, for two sides of the room +should consist of outside walls. + +If possible have two outside windows for proper regulation of the +temperature and for good ventilation. If you cannot have two windows +have one. + +A very good arrangement for constant circulation of air consists in +having a stove-pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of the +window to admit cold air. One of the upper panes of the window can be +removed to allow for the escape of warm air. That is, of course, if +the window is made of nine or twelve small panes of squares of glass. +In severely cold weather this upper pane can be replaced or the +opening stuffed up in some way. + +If you do not have an old stove-pipe you can make a wooden flue of old +boards or old discarded boxes. + +Most cellars and basements are now made with concrete floors. The +ideal floor for storage purposes is an earth floor. However, we can +put two or three inches of sand on our concrete floors and get good +results. Sprinkle the sand with water from time to time. + +Put the vegetables that are to be stored in boxes, baskets, barrels or +crates. Use containers that hold only two or three bushels apiece. If +larger boxes or barrels are used there is always danger of heating and +decay. Of course, proper precautions should be taken against mice. + +An excellent way to prevent wilting of crops and shrinkage is to put +moist leaves, oak or maple, in the containers with the vegetables. +Moist sand is sometimes used but it is much heavier to handle than the +leaves. It is no difficult matter to rake the lawn when you are ready +to store the vegetables. + +The vegetables that are adapted for cellar storage are beets, cabbage, +carrots, celery, parsnips, potatoes, salsify and turnips. + + +PIT STORAGE + +There are two kinds of pits that may be used for storage. Those that +are not frost-proof and those which are frost-proof. + +Some vegetables are not injured by being held in a frozen condition +during the winter months. Cabbage is not injured by moderate frost. +Cabbage and parsnips will stand freezing and a little thawing, so they +can be put in pits or better still, boxes or barrels set into the +ground may be used. Make the pit mound shaped. If the earth is mounded +around the box, barrel or pit, surface water cannot run in. + +If using this kind of storage do not store the products until both the +ground and the products are frozen solid. The idea is to keep the +vegetables frozen or to have very few freezings and thawings, and +those few should be gradual. + +After the pit has been made or the box or barrel has been set into the +ground and filled with vegetables, it should be covered first with a +piece of burlap or carpet, then with a mouse-proof board cover and +finally with straw or similar material. When taken from the pit, the +vegetables can be thawed out over night in cold water, after which +they can be kept in the cellar for a short length of time. + +The pits for keeping vegetables free from frost must be carefully and +thoughtfully made, but they are cheap and are very useful and +practical when caves or cellars are not convenient. + +The frost-proof pit for storing vegetables should always be placed in +as well-drained a place as possible. A shallow excavation should be +made from one to two feet deep, four feet wide and as long as +desired. Line the pit with straw, hay or leaves, then place the +vegetables in a conical pile on the straw. Cover the vegetables with +six inches of the material used in making the lining. This is covered +with three or four inches of earth. The straw is allowed to extend up +through the earth at the top of the pile, thus assuring ventilation. + +When it becomes colder add more covering to the pit by another layer +of straw and a layer of earth. In very cold climates a layer of manure +or corn stalks will afford protection against frost. + +It is well to make several small pits rather than one larger one for +the reason that when a pit has once been opened it is difficult to +protect the remaining vegetables from frost. + +It is advisable to store several varieties of vegetables in one pit so +that when each pit is opened you have a variety of vegetables. If you +follow this plan separate the various crops by using straw or leaves. + +Pits are entered by chopping a hole through the frozen earth at one +end, large enough to reach into or crawl into. After the vegetables +have been obtained keep the hole stuffed and covered most carefully +and deeply with old sacks and straw. + +If the smaller pits are used, a decidedly better arrangement, take out +all the vegetables in the pit and those that are not needed for +immediate consumption can be placed in the cellar storage room, or +other cool place, until needed. Do not use those pits if you live +where winter rains are abundant as the pits will become water soaked +and the vegetables will suffer more or less decay. + + +OUTDOOR CELLAR STORAGE + +Outdoor cellars or caves may be cheaply built for more or less +temporary use or they may be very expensively built of concrete, +brick, or clay blocks. Of course, the latter are permanent storing +places and offer perfect storage for potatoes, carrots, cabbages, +parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify. + +The objectionable features of indoor cellar storage is that such +storage does not furnish ideal conditions for keeping the vegetables +fresh for any great length of time. + +The objectionable feature to the pit storage is the inaccessibility to +these pits during severe weather. + +The outdoor cellar or cave overcomes both these objections. The +outdoor cellar or cave is an underground structure, preferably built +in a hillside and fully covered with earth except at one end only +where the entrance is located. If there are doors at both ends it is +almost impossible to prevent freezing in very cold weather. The cave +door should fit perfectly and there should be a hatchway or door over +the steps leading down to the cave door. + +A very satisfactory inexpensive cellar can be made by digging an +excavation about 5 ft. deep and in this erecting a frame by setting +posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform +height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place rafters. +Board up completely with the exception of the entrance. Cover the +whole with dirt or sod and in cold climates add a layer of straw or +fodder. + +A ventilation must be provided in the roof at the back end. A sewer +tile with the bell end up makes a very good flue. A dirt floor is +satisfactory as it contains moisture. If there is any seepage use a +drain tile to carry it off. + +The more pretentious permanent cellars are provided with air spaces to +furnish insulation; are provided with large ventilation shafts through +the roof and cold air intakes under the floor. Thorough drainage is +obtained by placing a line of tile around the outside wall and also by +having the air intake serve as a drain for surplus water that might +get into the cave. The floor is cement or concrete. Such a cave is +expensive but is a permanent structure and a good addition to any farm +or estate. If properly made it is possible to maintain a temperature +of 34 to 38 degrees without much fluctuation during the winter months. +This kind of storage is not only adapted for vegetables but apples as +well. It is better adapted to the Northern, Eastern and Western States +than to the Southern States, where it is likely to be warm at the time +the vegetables are ready for storage. When making the cave, have it as +near as possible to the kitchen door. Sometimes caves are made so that +they can be entered from the house, cellar or porch. + + +ATTIC STORAGE + +Some vegetables such as onions, squashes, sweet potatoes and pumpkins +can be stored in the attic in crates which allow free circulation of +air. They must be absolutely free from bruises and must be well +ripened and cured. To cure the vegetables expose them to the air for a +few days in the shade. Remove the tops of onions before storing. The +attic is much better for storing onions than the basement. Squashes +are susceptible to cold and moisture, so are suitable for the attic. + +Be very careful in handling the squashes to prevent breaking the +stems off. Watch pumpkins and squash carefully and at the first sign +of decay, use immediately or can. + + +SAND BOX STORAGE + +Sand boxes in cellars, pits or caves are desirable for beets, turnips, +kohl-rabi, carrots, winter radishes and rutabagas. The sand keeps them +cold and prevents evaporation. Kohl-rabi should be tender when stored. + + +PANTRY STORAGE + +Where there is no attic or where it is inconveniently reached, the +products that are adapted to a very dry place can be stored on the +pantry shelves or in a dry cellar near the furnace. They are onions, +squashes, pumpkins and sweet potatoes. + +The keeping qualities of all these vegetables, no matter what storage +is used, depends chiefly upon their condition when placed in storage. +All products to be stored must be mature, but not overgrown. Root +crops should be dry while the ground is in good working condition. All +vegetables should be allowed to become surface dry before placing them +in storage. + +White or Irish potatoes, especially, should not be exposed to bright +sunlight any length of time. Only vegetables free from disease or +injury should be stored. Any that are damaged can be used immediately, +or can be canned or dried. + +Further particulars for the storing of fresh vegetables are given in +the following tables. + +TABLE FOR VEGETABLE STORAGE + +VEGETABLES + |HOW BEST STORED + | |PREPARATION FOR STORAGE + | | |AMOUNT FOR FAMILY OF TWO + | | | |REMARKS + | | | | +Irish Potatoes + |Must be kept cool with a slight degrees of moisture. Use + |either cellar or cave methods. No potato should be more than + |four ft. from air if stored in barrels, boxes, crates or + |bins. + | |Potatoes must be dug before the ground is crusted with + | |frost. Frosted potatoes will spoil, one after another. + | |Impossible to sort out frosted potatoes. + | | |10 to 15 bus. + | | | |Remember Irish potatoes are ruined by + | | | |freezing. Potatoes should be kept absolutely + | | | |dark to prevent greening by light. Never buy + | | | |potatoes in sacks that show wet places due to + | | | |a frosted potato. + | | | | +Sweet Potatoes + |Require warmth and dryness. In crates or on shelves in warm + |dry room. Can be spread on the floor in the room above the + |kitchen where they will have plenty of heat, especially for + |the first 2 or 3 weeks after they are dug. + | |When the sweet potatoes are dug they should be allowed + | |to lie in the sun and wind for 3 or 4 hours so as to + | |become perfectly dry. They must be well ripened and free + | |from bruises. Can be kept on shelves in a very dry place + | |and they need not be kept specially cold. Sweet potatoes + | |keep best when they are showing just a little + | |inclination to sprout. However, if they start growing + | |the quality is greatly injured. + | | |2 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you are in doubt as to whether the sweet + | | | |potatoes are matured enough for storage, cut + | | | |or break one end and expose it to the air for + | | | |a few minutes. If the surface of the cut or + | | | |break dries, the potato is mature. But if + | | | |moisture remains on the surface, it is not + | | | |fully ripened. In places where there are early + | | | |frosts, sweet potatoes should be dug about the + | | | |time the first frost is expected, without + | | | |considering maturity. + | | | | +Carrots + |Are best stored in sand in cellars, caves or pits; or in + |tightly covered boxes or crocks. Must be kept cold and + |evaporation must be prevented, for otherwise they become + |wilted. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool; then be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you store carrots in the cellar and it is + | | | |extremely dry cover them with a little + | | | |moistened sand. + | | | | +Celery + |May be rooted in earth in a cellar or cave and if watered + |occasionally will keep fresh until Christmas. The soil, earth + |or sand, in which the celery is set should be 2 or 3 inches + |deep. This soil must not be allowed to become dry. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool. + | | |5 dozen good plants or bunches. + | | | |Another way to store celery is to bank it to + | | | |the top with earth; cover the tops with + | | | |boards, straw, or leaves and allow it to + | | | |remain where it has grown until wanted for + | | | |use. Another way is to dig a trench 12 inches + | | | |wide and deep enough to correspond with the + | | | |height of the celery, then lift the celery and + | | | |pack it in this trench with some soil about + | | | |the roots. When the weather becomes colder, + | | | |cover the trench with boards nailed together + | | | |in the form of a _V_ shaped trough and over + | | | |this inverted trough put a layer of soil. The + | | | |ends of this trough should be left open for + | | | |ventilation until freezing sets in, then close + | | | |these openings with straw, old bags or soil. + | | | |If the freeze ceases and there is a spell of + | | | |warmer weather open the ends slightly for + | | | |ventilation. When the celery is first stored + | | | |in the trenches the soil about the roots of + | | | |the celery should be watered and and if the + | | | |weather is dry after the celery is put in the + | | | |trenches, pour some water around the roots to + | | | |keep the celery crisp and fresh. + | | | | +Cabbage + |Can be wrapped in paper with the outer leaves left on for + |immediate use and stored in ventilated barrels or large + |crates in the cellar. But as few cellars are cool enough to + |keep cabbage in good condition it is more advisable to store + |it in a long shallow pit in the garden. + | |Is not injured by moderate frost while in the pit but + | |should not be disturbed while frozen. The pit should be + | |long and narrow. Pull the cabbage, stem, root and all, + | |and then laid with heads down about 3 heads in width can + | |be placed in the pit. Cover lightly with soil and as the + | |weather becomes colder add a little more soil until + | |there is a layer 6 or 7 inches thick over the cabbage. + | |Keep the ends of the pit partially open for ventilation + | |until the weather becomes very cold. + | | |25 heads. + | | | |Late varieties of cabbage are the only ones + | | | |fit for storage. It is advisable to dig a + | | | |shallow ditch around the pit so that all + | | | |surplus water can be carried off. + | | | | +Chickory or Endive + |Store in a box or bed of moist sand in the cellar. Put roots + |in an upright position with the sand coming just to their + |tops. Water the sand occasionally. Sometimes a covering of + |straw is added to blanch the tender growth of shoots, which + |is the part used as food. + | |Late in the fall lift the roots out and carefully trim + | |off the leaves without injury to the heart. + | | |5 doz. roots. + | | | |Chickory or endive is grown the same as + | | | |carrots or salsify. It is useful in the winter + | | | |for it furnishes the needed green that is so + | | | |scarce in winter. + | | | | +Beets + |Must not be placed in too large piles in the cellar as they + |are inclined to mold. Can also be buried in pits in open + |ground. + | |Can remain in the ground until very cool weather; then + | |should be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored in + | |the cellar. + | | |1 bushel. + | | | |Beets are not so much inclined to shrivel as + | | | |carrots. + | | | | +Salsify or Vegetable Oyster + |Pack roots in box with moist sand in cellar or as they are + |not injured by remaining in the ground all winter they can be + |left there. Enough for immediate use may be dug in the autumn + |and the others dug as desired. + | |When stored in the cellar after the salsify is pulled, + | |trim off the tops and then stand them in an upright + | |position with the sand even with the tops. + | | |75 to 100 roots. + | | | |Is injured by too much freezing and thawing, + | | | |so should remain frozen. + | | | | +Parsnips + |Can be stored just as salsify or be allowed to remain in the + |ground until wanted. + | |Those that are to be stored in the cellar can remain in + | |in the garden until the weather is quite cool, then + | |prepare and store like salsify. + | | |1 bushel in the cellar and one in the garden. + | | | |Parsnips are best kept frozen or fresh in the + | | | |cellar as too much freezing and thawing + | | | |destroys them. + | | | | +Turnips + |Must be stored where temperature is low or sprouting will + |result. Moderate freezing does no harm while in the storage + |pit but they must not be disturbed while frozen. + | |Pull; cut tops off and store in sand in cellars or + | |caves, or in pits, or in tightly covered boxes or + | |crocks. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |The object is to keep them cold and prevent + | | | |evaporation. It is a good plan to store a + | | | |portion in the cellar so as to be available + | | | |during the time that those buried in the pit + | | | |are "frozen in" and not so easily accessible. + | | | | +Onions + |Require a cool dry place. Attic excellent. + | |Before storing, cure them by exposing to the air for a + | |few days in the shade. Dryness is absolutely essential. + | |A well cured onion should be firm and not readily dented + | |at the base of the tops by the tip of the thumb when + | |held in the hand. + | | |3 bushels. + | | | |Onions are best for storage if topped about 1½ + | | | |inches long. + | | | | +Cauliflower + |Planted in shallow boxes of soil in light place in the + |cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |Store as many as possible. + | | | |If kept well watered they will mature for + | | | |winter use. + | | | | +Brussels Sprouts + |Planted in soil in cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |According to family tastes. + | | | |Keep watered and will mature. + | | | | +Ground Cherries or Husk Tomatoes + |May be stored for some weeks in the husk in their layers in a + |dry place free from frost. + | +Kohl-rabi, Winter Radishes, Rutabagas + |Best stored in sand in cellars, cares or pits. + | |Must be kept cold to prevent evaporation. + | | |According to the family tastes. + | | | |Kohl-rabi must be tender when stored. + | | | | +Horse-radish + |May be kept in the ground where grown all winter. Must be + |kept frozen as thawing injures it. + | +Pumpkins + |Best kept on shelves in a very dry place. Can be kept on + |shelves in furnace room. + | |Must be ripened and cured and free from bruises. + | | |5 ordinary sized pumpkins. + | | | |Need not be kept especially cold. + | | | | +Squashes + |Susceptible to cold and moisture, so store in a dry place + |where temperature will be between 50 and 60 degrees. + | |Care must be taken that stem is not broken. + | | |10 ordinary sized hubbard squashes. + | | | |Whenever squashes or pumpkins in storage show + | | | |signs of decay, the sound portion should be + | | | |immediately canned. + | | | | +Tomatoes + |Cool cellar or cave; can be wrapped in any absorbent paper + |preferably without printing upon it, and laid upon shelves to + |ripen. The paper absorbs the moisture given off by the + |tomatoes and causes them to ripen uniformly. If cellar is dry + |or well ventilated, tomatoes can be kept a month or six weeks + |in this manner. + | |May be kept until Christmas if vines with the green + | |tomatoes hanging on them are pulled and hung in the + | |cellar. Pull the vines before they are frosted. + | | |All that you can put away. + | | | |Most of the tomatoes that are put into storage + | | | |will ripen and be most acceptable as soon as + | | | |they color up. If these tomatoes, when cooked, + | | | |are found to be very acid, the acidity may be + | | | |overcome by using baking soda. + | | | | +Parsley + |Transplant into flower pots late in the fall. + | |Keep in windows where they will receive plenty of + | |sunshine. + | | +Garlic + |Should be thoroughly cured as are onions. + | |Or it may be braided by the tops into strings which are + | |hung up in dry places for curing and storing. + | | +Head Lettuce + |Rooted in earth in a cellar or cave. + | |Water occasionally. + | | |All you have in the garden. + | | | +Dry beans and peas + |Stored where protected from weevils. + | |Should be fully ripened before shelling. Pick pods by + | |hand as they ripen and spread pods to become thoroughly + | |dry. May be shelled by spreading pods on a sheet and + | |beating them with a stick. Can be cleaned by pouring + | |them from a height of 4 or 5 ft. upon a sheet and + | |allowing the wind to blow the particles of pod out of + | |them as they fall. + | | |As many as you can gather. + | | | +Apples + |Must be kept in a dry, cool place and so stored as to be in + |no danger of absorbing odors from vegetables stored nearby. + |Apples absorb odors from potatoes, onions, turnips and other + |strong vegetables. + | |Sort apples carefully removing and using at once all + | |fruit that is bruised and shows signs of decay. The best + | |results are obtained by wrapping each apple in half a + | |sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates + | |or bins. The wrapping prevents apples from touching and + | |thus prevents decay. It also protects apples from odors + | |of vegetables stored nearby. + | | |As many barrels of apples as possible. Remember + | | |that "An apple a day will keep the doctor away." + | | | |The cellar or other storage place must be kept + | | | |cool. 32° F. is ideal. Never allow temperature + | | | |to go above 40° F. They can be stored + | | | |unwrapped in barrels, boxes, crates, bins, + | | | |etc., if proper attention is paid to sorting, + | | | |to providing a cool place for storage, to + | | | |occasional sorting during the winter and for + | | | |the immediate removal of all decayed fruit. + | | | |Even if you do not raise apples, but have a + | | | |good storage place, meeting the requirements + | | | |as regards temperature, you will find it + | | | |advantageous to buy a winter's supply in the + | | | |autumn, when prices are low. + + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + +You have some delicious jellies, jams, canned fruits and vegetables +that you wish to sell and you do not know just how to go about it. +There are at your disposal several means of selling: + +1. Through advertising. + +2. Through personal letters to desirable shops, delicatessens, +boarding-houses, colleges, etc. + +3. By direct salesmanship; that is, by making personal visits to the +buyers, either homes or stores. + +4. Through jobbers to whom you pay a commission on all sales. + +5. Through coöperative selling. + +Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way for you to handle your problem is +to employ the method so much used to-day and that is wayside +advertising. Wayside advertising costs practically nothing and yet it +pays. + +Autos are everywhere these days. You cannot take a country ride +without seeing many signboards at the farm entrances advertising +chickens, fresh eggs, vegetables, honey, apples and canned goods. I +have a friend who drives 50 miles every fall for her honey. She first +found it by seeing the sign in front of the farm and now she returns +year after year because she thinks no other honey is just like it. She +would never have discovered it if that farm woman had not been clever +enough to think of advertising her goods in this cheap way. My friend +told all her other "auto" friends, so the country woman has a splendid +outlet for her product now. If you live on a good road that is +patronized at all by autoists you ought to get your signboard up at +once. + +We often pass a farm where the sign "Fresh Home-Made Candy" always +tempts us to stop and buy. What autoist could resist that sign? And +here miles from town this clever woman is carrying on a profitable +side trade, which is netting her a nice little yearly income. Her +candy is good; we go often and so do many others. She has turned her +profession into a paying proposition. She could send her candy away by +parcel post or by some other means, but she would not be so far ahead +as she is now. + +In addition to your wayside advertising you could advertise in papers, +magazines, etc. Many producers believe strongly in advertising in +daily and weekly papers. You can quickly find out whether this kind of +advertising pays. Give it a trial at least. After you have spent ten +or fifteen dollars in advertising you ought to know whether it pays. + +Use one or two of the city papers near you, taking the publisher's +advice as to the best day of the week on which to run the +advertisement, the size and the position of the "ad." The first cost +of getting your customers may seem high, but with good products you +could soon build up a list of people to whom sales can be made year +after year. + +This form of advertising has many advantages. If your advertising copy +is clever and you have some novelty to offer, you ought to receive +many orders. If orders come, you get the full retail price, the +shipping charges are paid by the customer, and cash comes with every +order. And it means, if your customers are pleased, that you have +permanent customers. The initial cost is great and there is a risk, +but remember "it pays to advertise." + +There are millions of city women who never can a jar of fruit or put +up a single glass of preserves or jelly who will be glad to have you +send your goods direct to them by parcel post. But you must get in +touch with these women either through wayside advertising, magazine +and paper advertising or by direct salesmanship, although very few +women have the time for personal calls. + +Considerable business can be done by letter writing to stores, +restaurants and boarding-houses in distant cities. It may be +impossible for you to go personally, in which case letters often bring +the desired results. Make your letters business-like and typewrite +them. Do not be discouraged if you do not get many replies at first as +there are at least fifty per cent who pay no attention to such +letters. But this form of advertising usually pays. + +Another method followed by many home canners is that of marketing +direct to the retail grocers, care being taken, of course, to protect +these grocers by not selling to more than one member in a community. +One of the great advantages, of this direct salesmanship is that +little selling effort is required on your part after the first +arrangements have been made. The nearby market plan is greatly to be +recommended because you can keep in touch with your selling concern, +build up a line of desirable goods and promote its sale by +advertising. + +Of course you can get more money for your goods if you have time and +the opportunity to sell _direct to_ the consumers. You will of +necessity have to sell cheaper to the grocers because they too must +make their profit. Marketing direct to the consumer has a special +appeal to many people. Where time is available and the community +accustomed to purchasing in this manner, this method offers great +possibilities. The profits are of course higher but the results more +uncertain, for it is somewhat difficult to gauge the demands of the +public, and the canner must assume the risk ordinarily taken by the +merchant. + +It takes time and patience to develop a list of customers but if you +have time in the winter to do this you will find it will pay you well. +If you can get customers who are willing to pay good prices for +quality, scrupulous cleanliness and the homemade flavor, you will get +a larger gross return than if you sold through merchants, but if your +time is valuable it would scarcely pay you to take individual orders +and deliver goods. + +There is still another way and that is to market your home-canned +products in large lots to jobbers, but if this plan is to be pursued +successfully there must be a reasonably large pack and wholesale +rates. This method produces more uniform profits year by year, for +after a reputation is established the home-canner would not experience +great difficulty in thus disposing of her entire output by contract, +providing the quality was high and the price demands not excessive. + +But the greatest and best way of all to find a profitable market for +your things is to coöperate with other canners in your own +neighborhood and find a market for quantity as well as quality. +Delicatessens, club houses, tea shops, college dormitories, +restaurants and hotels, all pay good prices for fine quality. No big +buyer will bother to purchase one or two dozen of this or that. He +wants dozens of things. One of the very best profitable ways to sell +with little trouble is through quantities. Get all the women in your +community to bring together cans of fruit and preserves, etc., to some +marketing place. Find out how many jars of currant jelly you have, how +many cans of peas and corn, how many of cherries, etc., and then +notify your buyer or prospective buyer. + +Coöperative selling has been undertaken and found profitable. In some +cases, especially in localities frequented by the summer boarder or +the automobile tourist, sales are made direct to customers who come to +the salesrooms of the organizations or to their special sales; in +other cases goods are sent by parcel post and other means. The women +in the community can hire or beg a room where all the women of the +community can sell their products for individual profit. This room +should be located on the direct automobile road in order to attract +tourists and automobile parties. An annual membership fee of from 50 +cents to $1 generally is required for these organizations, and a +charge of from 10 to 15 per cent of the selling price usually is made +to cover the cost of selling. In a few instances the managing board +has been able to secure an efficient person to take charge of the +enterprise for a specified percentage on the sales. + +Wholesale grocery concerns are interested in big things--orders can +be placed with them. Soda fountains in towns and cities are excellent +customers for the freshest eggs they can get. They are encroaching +more and more on the trade of the restaurants and lunch rooms. Many +serve light luncheons and would be interested in good butter, +preserves and jams. When you get a list of names and addresses write +to several dozen places, tell what your organization has in the way of +guaranteed eggs, homemade products and what kind of service you could +offer in the way of regular shipments. When orders come it is an easy +matter to look up at your local bank the responsibility of any +customer, so there is little risk. Or cash can be insisted upon with +every order, although large concerns prefer to pay after receipt of +goods and bill. + +Each woman in this coöperative organization must keep her goods up to +a certain standard, for an inferior lot of goods sent to a large firm +might ruin a reputation. + +Three things govern the sale of canned products--appearances, quality +and price. So many things enter into consideration of prices +obtainable that it is difficult to set a standard which will be +applicable to different sections. The quality of the pack, its +neatness, the method of marketing and many other matters must be +considered in deciding this all-important point. As a general +proposition, however, if the products are uniformly high grade, prices +may be obtained which are somewhat in excess of factory-made products +marketed in the same manner. + +Like any other new industry, the selling should be developed slowly in +order to minimize the possibility of loss and to assure stable +business. One should study the situation carefully both from the +manufacturing and marketing standpoints. Plan the season's campaign +before taking up the work, and do not let the enthusiasm of the +beginner interfere with good business judgment. + +The selling when rightly managed can be made a successful business or +it can be turned into a liability through careless, unbusinesslike +methods and insufficient or unwise planning. Properly handled it will +pay well for the investment of time and money, and offer opportunity +for the disposal of surplus home-canned, home-grown, homemade and +home-prepared products of all kinds. + + +LIVING UP TO CONTRACTS + +Care must be taken not to contract for more than can be delivered. +This would be bad business, and business principles must govern in +selling home products just as in other enterprises if one is to be +increasingly successful from year to year. + +Occasionally a quantity of fruit which will not meet the rigid +requirements of the canning business can be turned into preserves, +jellies or fruit juices. Preserves and jellies should be marketed in +glass, and fruit juices in bottles, although some manufacturers are +now marketing some of these products in fiber cups. This line of +products will require some additional equipment, but there is a steady +demand for such homemade things and many women are deriving profits +through the sale of their tastily prepared jellies, just as pickles +and condiments have lined the pocketbooks of ambitious housewives +before now. + +Home canning for the market is essentially a matter of specializing +and of giving the consumer a better product than he is accustomed to +purchase. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the maintenance of a +high standard for home-canned goods. Care should be taken that every +jar measures up to a rigid standard, for a single one which falls +below grade will neutralize the reputation and standing obtained by +the sale of a dozen jars of perfect product. A quality is necessary +which will warrant a money-back guarantee on every jar. + + +THE USE OF LABELS IN CANNING + +Labels for both tin cans and glass jars should tell the truth as to +the quality, weight and kind of product within the pack. Before +adopting a trade-mark and label, consult the Bureau of Chemistry, U.S. +Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., as to label requirements +for canned goods prepared for the market. + +It pays to show samples of all your canned goods at county and state +fairs. You may win many premiums. Goods which are canned with +preservatives should be debarred from all exhibits. + + +PACKING GLASS FOR SHIPPING + +Wrap each glass or jar separately in rumpled newspapers or excelsior +and pack in barrels or boxes. Line these containers with papers or +excelsior. + +Strong corrugated parcel post boxes can be obtained for this purpose. +Wrap each jar with excelsior or paper before putting it in its proper +section. If sending large amounts send all boxes or all barrels, do +not mix them,--sending half barrels and half boxes--as large concerns +like uniform packages. + + +PACKING TIN FOR SHIPPING + +Two dozen cans is the regulation shipping case. Have the shipping +boxes of uniform size. Put the two dozen cans in the box and nail on +the top. Be exceedingly careful not to drive nails into the cans. On +both ends of the box paste labels such as are on the cans, telling +what the contents of the box are. + +Address the box carefully using marking ink or a regulation tag. If a +tag, tack with small tacks on the top of the box. Write your own name +and address on the tag _distinctly_ as the sender. Be as careful of +the tacks as you were of the nails. Always get a receipt from your +express agent if shipping by express as this will be necessary in case +of non-receipt of goods. + +Send to the concern or individual to whom you are sending the goods a +list of the things you have sent. This is called an invoice. Keep a +copy of the invoice for yourself so if any question arises you will +know what you are talking about. + + +SHIPPING TERMS + +C.O.D. means collect on delivery. The purchaser pays the price of the +products to the transportation company before they are delivered. + +F.O.B. means free on board. For instance: if you send a shipment of +canned goods to Chicago at $6.00 per case f.o.b. Charles City it means +that you deliver the canned goods to the freight depot at Charles City +and the purchaser pays both the price per case and the freight. If you +deliver them f.o.b. Chicago it means you deliver them to the freight +depot at Charles City and also pay the freight to Chicago. + +Bill of Lading with Sight Draft Attached is a call for the money +before the purchaser can take the products from the freight office. + +Drop Shipment. If a wholesale firm requests that you ship direct to +another firm buying from him, thus avoiding two shipments, this is +called a drop shipment. + +Lot Shipment. If you ship two or more barrels or cases as a "lot +shipment" to the same destination they may be sent at a cheaper rate +than if each were shipped separately. + + LIST OF FIRMS FURNISHING SUPPLIES FOR CANNING, DRYING, PRESERVING, ETC + + HOME AND CLUB COÖPERATIVE CANNING OUTFITS AND DEVICES + + Butler Manufacturing Co. Kansas City, Mo., and Hot water and steam + Minneapolis, Minn. pressure canners. + + Carolina Metal Products Co. Wilmington, N.C. " " " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. Hot water canners. + + Farm Canning Machine Co. Meridian, Miss. " " " + + Favorite Manufacturing Co. Tamps, Florida Water-seal canners. + + Florida Metal Products Jacksonville, Fla. Water-seal canners. + + Griffith & Turner Co. 205-207 N. Pace St., Steam canners. + Baltimore, Md. + + Halftime Cooker Co. 7556 Oglesby Avenue, Pressure canners. + Chicago, Ill. + + Hall Canner Co. Grand Rapids, Mich. Hot water bath + canners. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co 80-82 N. 5th Street, Steam pressure + Portland, Ore. canners. + + Home Canner Manufacturing Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + Co. + + E.F. Kirwan & Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Modern Canner Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Monarch Manufacturing Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Northwestern Steel & Iron Eau Claire, Wis. Steam pressure + Wks. canners. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Nashville, Tenn. Hot water canners. + Co. + + Pressure Cooker Co. Denver, Colo. Aluminum steam + pressure cookers + and canners. + + T.H. Raney Chapel Hill, N.C. Hot water canners. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Steam pressure + canners + + Royal Supply Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Steam process + canners. + + Southern Canner and Chattanooga, Tenn. Hot water canners + Evaporator Co. + + Sprague Canning Machinery 222 No. Wabash Ave., Steam pressure + Co. Chicago, Ill. canners. + + F.S. Stahl 212 N. 4th Street, Hot water canners. + Quincy, Ill. + + Standard Water-Seal Canner 17 N. 2nd Street, Water-seal canners. + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Utility Company Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + + Willson Canner Company Louisville, Ky., and Water-seal and + No. 8 G St., N.W. pressure canners. + Washington, D.C. + + + HOME EVAPORATORS, DRYERS, AND EQUIPMENT FOR DRYING + + American Paring Machine Co 1231 Callowhill St., + Philadelphia, Pa. Peeler + + Harry Bentz Engineering Co. 90 West St., New York City Dryer + + G.S. Blakekslee & Company, 2806 Quinn St., Chicago, Ill. " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. + + Enterprise Mfg. Co., 3rd and Dauphin Sts., + Philadelphia, Pa. Slicer + + Edw. B. Fahrney, Waynesboro, Pa. + + Gordon Engineering Corporaton 39 Cortlandt St., New York City " + + The Grange Sales Association, Lafayette Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Hunter Dry Kiln Co. Indianapolis, Ind. Dryer + + Imperial Machine Company, 108 West 34th St., N.Y. City Cuber + + Lake Breeze Motor Co., 564 W. Monroe St., Chicago Dryer + + Philadelphia Drying Machinery Stekley St., above Westmoreland, + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. " + + Philadelphia Textile Machinery Sixth St. and Tabor Road, " + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co., Nashville, Tenn. + + John E. Smith's Sons Co., Buffalo, N.Y. Cuber + + Southern Evaporator Co., Chattanooga, Tenn. + + F.S. Stahl, 212 N. 4th St., Quincy, Ill. + + N.R. Streeter Company, Rochester, N.Y. Dryer + + N.R. Streeter & Co., Rochester, N.Y. " + + B.F. Sturtevant Company, Hyde Park Dist., Boston, Mass. Peeler + + Stutzman Mfg. Company, Ligonier, Ind. + + H.G.W. Young Co., 61 Hanover St., Boston, Mass. Cuber + + + MECHANICAL SEALS AND SEALERS FOR TIN AND GLASS + + American Metal Cap Co., + Summit St. and Commercial + Wharf, Brooklyn, N.Y. Metal bottle caps. + + American Pure Food Process Co., + Greenmount Avenue and Preston + St., Baltimore, Md. Mechanical sealer for glass jars. + + Bowers Can Seal Company, + 146 Summer St., Boston, Mass. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + Burpe Can Sealer Co., + 215 W. Huron St., Chicago. Tin can sealer and opener. + + Columbia Specialty Co., + Baltimore, Md. Metal bottle caps. + + Crown Cork and Seal Co., + Baltimore, Chicago, San + Francisco, and other cities Sanitary metal bottle caps and sealers. + + The Enterprise Mfg. Co., + Philadelphia, Pa. Bottle cappers from 3 in. to 14 in. + + Frazer & Co., Mechanical hand sealer for sanitary + 50 Church Street, New York City cans. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co., + 47 1st Street, Portland, Ore. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + States Metals Co., Hand sealers for sanitary cans. + 30 Church Street, New York City + + + STEAMERS + + Aluminum Cooking Utensil Co. New Kensington, Pa. + + Toledo Cooker Co. Toledo, Ohio. + + Wilmot, Castle & Co. Rochester, N.Y. + + + + HEATING DEVICES, LIFTING CRATES, AND OTHER LABOR-SAVING DEVICES + + L.B. Allen Co. 4517 No. Lincoln St., + Chicago, Ill. Commercial flux. + + Biddle-Gaumer Co. Philadelphia, Pa. Patent canners. + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Fagley & Halpen Philadelphia, Pa. " " " + + Handy Mfg. Co. Maritime Bldg., + Seattle Wash., and Individual jar holders. + 208 No. Wabash Ave., + Chicago, Ill. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Duplex fork. + + Manning, Bowman & Co. Meriden, Conn. Alcholite stoves. + + Parker Wire Goods Co. Worcester, Mass. Lifting tray for jars. + + Pearce Co. Albion, Mich. Racks and lifters. + + W.H. Schaefer Co. Toledo, Ohio. Fruit jar wrench. + + + + LABELS, STICKERS, SHIELDS AND BADGES + + Camden Curtain and + Embroidery Co Camden, New Jersey. + + R.P. Clarke & Co. Washington, D.C. + + Dennison Mfg. Co. Boston, Mass. + + U.S. Printing and + Lithograph Co. Cincinnati, Ohio. + + + TIN CANS AND GLASS JARS + + American Can Co. New York City. Tin cans. + + Ball Bros. Glass + Mfg. Co. Muncie, Ind. Screw top and glass-top jars + + Ben Schloss San Francisco, Cal. Glass jars. + + Buck Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Chesapeake Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Continental Can Co. Chicago, Ill. Tin cans. + + Frazer & Co. 50 Church St., N.Y.C. Sanitary cans. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Glass-top jars. + + Johnson-Morse Can Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Tin cans. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle + Co. Zanesville, Ohio. Glass jars. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Suction seal and Mason + jars. + + E.F. Kirwan Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans and general + equipment. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. Suction seal and screw + top jars. + + Smalley Fruit Jar Co. 26 Dock Sq., Boston, Glass-top jars. + Mass. + + Southern Can Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + F.S. Stahl Quincy, Ill. " " + + Staunton Jar Corporation Ellicott Sq, Buffalo, Vacuum seal jars. + N.Y. + + United States Can Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Tin cans. + + Virginia Can Co. Buchanan, Va. " " + + Wheeling Can Co. Wheeling, W.Va. " " + + + RUBBER RINGS FOR COLD-PACK CANNING + + Acme Rubber Co. Trenton, N.J. + + Boston Woven Hose & + Rubber Co. Boston, Mass. + + United States Rubber Co. Cleveland, Ohio. + + + GLASS BOTTLES AND OTHER CONTAINERS FOR FRUIT JUICES, CATSUP, + ETC. + + Adams Brothers Co. Chicago, Ill. + + Atlantic Bottle Co. 90 West Broadway, N.Y. City. + + Berney-Bond Glass Co. Bradford, Pa. + + Cape May Glass Co. Cape May Court House, N.J. + + Cumberland Glass Mfg. Co. Bridgeton, N.J. + + The Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Glenshaw Glass Co. Glenshaw, Pa. + + C.C. Goss Glass Co., Mfg. Agts. 172 Fulton St., New York City. + + Hocking Glass Co. Lancaster, Ohio. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Indiana Glass Co. Dunkirk, Ind. + + D.C. Jenkins Glass Co. Kokomo, Ind. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Wheeling Glass Bottle Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Ripley & Co. Connellsville, Pa. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. + + Sheffield Glass Bottle Co. Sheffield, Pa. + + The Sterling Glass Co. Lapel, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + United States Glass Co. Salem, N.J. + + Upland Flint Bottle Co. Upland, Ind. + + Western Bottle Mfg. Co. West end Randolph St. Bridge, + Chicago, Ill. + + Whitall-Tatum Co. 410-416 Race St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Wightman Bottle & Glass Mfg. Co. Parkers Landing, Pa. + + Williamstown Glass Co. Williamstown, N.J. + + Woodbury Glass Co. Winchester, Ind. + + + GLASS BOTTLES SEALED WITH CORKS AND METAL CAPS + + Acme Glass Co. Olean, N.Y. + + Binghamton Glass Co. Binghamton, N.Y. + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Jeanette Glass Co. Jeanette, Pa. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Baltimore Bottle Glass Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Whitney Glass Works Glassboro, N.J. + + + EARTHENWARE AND STONEWARE CONTAINERS + + Buckel Pottery Co. White Hall, Ill. + + Buckeye Pottery Co. Macomb, Ill. + + Burley and Winter Pottery Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Hawthorn Pottery Co. Hawthorn, Pa. + + Logan Pottery Co. Logan, Ohio + + Louisville Pottery Co. Louisville, Ky. + + Muskingum Pottery Co. White Cottage, Ohio. + + Nashville Pottery Co. Nashville, Tenn. + + Nelson McCly Sanitary Hardware Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Paducah Pottery Co. Paducah, Ky. + + Pfaltzaraff Pottery Co. York, Pa. + + Ransbottom Bros., Pottery Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Red Wing Union Stoneware Co. Red Wing, Minn. + + Star Stoneware Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Uhl Pottery Co. Evansville, Ind. + + Western Stoneware Co. Monmouth, Ill. + + White Hall Sewer Pipe & Stoneware Co. White Hall, Ill. + + + FIBRE AND PAPER CANS AND BOTTLES + + American Can Co. 447 W. 14th, New York City, and + Chicago, Ill. + + The American Paper Can Co. Washington, D.C. + + The Canister Company of New Jersey Phillipsburg, N.J. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cordley & Hayes 7-9 Leonard St., New York City. + + The Empire Paper Tube and Box Co. 155 Bank St., New York City. + + The Hygeia Paper Container Co. 2106 Auburn Ave., Toledo, Ohio. + + Moisture Proof Fibre Can Co. Detroit, Mich. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + Samuel W. Moore & Sons 95 Liberty St., New York City. + + National Paper Can Co. 576 Clinton St., Milwaukee, Wis. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Pure Food Package Co. 200 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass. + + The Purity Paper Bottle Co., Inc. 1341 S. Capitol St., Washington, + D.C. + + W.C. Ritchie & Co. 400 S. Green St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sanitary Paper Bottle Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Single Service Package Corp. of + America 326 Hudson St., New York City. + + St. Louis Paper Can & Tube Co. 4400 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, Mo. + + The Standard Package Co. 50 State St., Boston, Mass. + + Washington Paper Can Co. 425 12th St., N.W., Washington, D.C. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + FOIL-LINED PAPER BAGS + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + + DELIVERY CONTAINERS FOR EGGS, VEGETABLES, DRIED FOOD PRODUCTS, + ETC. + + Bloomer Bros. Co. Newark, New York. + + Doane Carton Co. 920 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + W.A. Schurmann & Co. 365 E. Ill. St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sefton Mfg. Co. 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + United States Corrugated Fibre + Box Co. Roosevelt Ave., Indianapolis, Ind. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + PARCEL POST EGG CONTAINERS + + O.B. Andrews Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. + + H.K. Brunner 45 Harrison St., New York City. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St Louis, Mo. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cummer Mfg. Co. Cadillac, Mich. + + Day Collapsible Box Co., Inc. Washington Grove, Md. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + F.B. Foster & C o. 2447 Locust St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Ohio No-Break Carrier Co. 702 Mercantile Library Bldg., + Cincinnati, Ohio. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Self-Locking Carton Co. 437 E. Illinois St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord & Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Safety Egg Carrier Co. Newark, N.Y. + + Wallace Egg Carrier Co. 451 3rd St., San Francisco, Cal. + + + MISCELLANEOUS CORRUGATED BOARD CONTAINERS + + American Can Co. New York City and Chicago, Ill. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord and Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Corrugated Fibre Box Co. 1315 Martindale Ave., Indianapolis, + Ind. + + + THERMOMETERS FOR OVEN, CANDY AND SUGAR + + Taylor Instrument Companies Rochester, N.Y. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERY STEP IN CANNING*** + + +******* This file should be named 13775-8.txt or 13775-8.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/7/7/13775 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: Every Step in Canning</p> +<p>Author: Grace Viall Gray</p> +<p>Release Date: October 17, 2004 [eBook #13775]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERY STEP IN CANNING***</p> +<br><br><h3>E-text prepared by John Hagerson, Kevin Handy, Stephen Schulze,<br> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</h3><br><br> +<hr class="full" noshade> +<br /> +<br /> +<h1>EVERY STEP IN</h1> +<h1>CANNING</h1> +<h1>THE COLD-PACK METHOD</h1> +<h3>BY</h3> +<h2>GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B</h2> +<p style='text-align: center;'><b><i>Formerly Associate Professor +of Home Economics, Iowa State College</i></b></p> +<p style='text-align: center;'>1920</p> +<br> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> +<p>It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, +Cold-Pack Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand +one day at a federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a +few weeks there would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty +miles away. Immediately I announced that I was going to the +demonstrations. So leaving my small daughter with my mother, I went +to the Normal School at DeKalb, Illinois, and heard and saw for the +first time cold-pack canning.</p> +<p>It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded +full of interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I +felt amply repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, +the first story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in +<i>The Country Gentleman</i> and I had the pleasure of writing it. +So enthused was I over this new, efficient and easy way to can not +only fruits but hard vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that +I wanted to carry the good news into the kitchen of other busy +housewives and mothers.</p> +<p>My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, +just from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, +much against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement +work, my sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that +for the first time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over +one phase of cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that +when she received my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, +"Mother, I am enthused about this canning and want to can +everything in sight this summer," she hastily washed all available +glass jars and tops and had everything in readiness for young +daughter's return. And we canned. We were not content to can alone +but invited all the neighbors in and taught them how to can. Our +community canned more things and more unusual things, including the +hard vegetables, that year than they had ever attempted before.</p> +<p>Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there +were doubting Thomases, but it only took time and <i>results</i> to +convert even the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a +confession. It was much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase +of canning, to master this new method than it was for me with my +four years' training course and my five years of teaching canning +behind me. And this is the reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," +she knew no other method whereas I had to "unlearn" all my previous +methods.</p> +<p>The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from +the old hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you +must forget all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And +right here is where many women "fall down"—they are not +willing to admit that they know nothing about it and so do not get +accurate information about it. They are so afraid of appearing +ignorant. This false feeling is the greatest obstacle in woman's +way.</p> +<p>I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will +say, "Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it +for thirty years." And when I show my surprise, they further +enlighten me with, "and my mother used it before me, too." With a +little <b>tactful</b> questioning I usually get these answers: "Of +course, I do not hot dip and cold dip. I never heard of that +before. I pack the products into the cold jars and for all +vegetables I use a preserving powder because there is no way on +earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless you put +something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right. Then I +cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I ask, +"How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the answer, +"Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems like +such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned, out-of-date +methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and much +actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for +there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old +rather than try the new.</p> +<p>The present book is therefore designed for all interested in +greater efficiency in the home, including not only students of home +economics but all persons who have charge of homes and are +interested in learning new, efficient, time and labor saving +methods.</p> +<p>In the preparation of this book I have received much help from +Mr. O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' +and Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. +I also wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped +to make this book possible by contributing information, advice and +encouragement.</p> +<p>GRACE VIALL GRAY.</p> +<p>October, 1919.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>I.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_I'>GETTING READY TO CAN</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>II.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_II'>SOFT FRUITS AND +BERRIES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>III.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_III'>HARD FRUITS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>IV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_IV'>VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_V'>V.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_V'>SOUPS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VI'>VI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VI'>JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, +MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VII'>VII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VII'>MEAT</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VIII'>VIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_VIII'>FISH</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IX'>IX.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_IX'>EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN +TIN</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_X'>X.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_X'>INTERMITTENT CANNING OR +FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>XI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>WHY CANNED GOODS +SPOIL</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI'>XII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XII'>GETTING READY TO +DRY</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIII'>XIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIII'>HOW TO DRY FRUITS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIV'>XIV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIV'>HOW TO DRY +VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XV'>XV.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XV'>EVERY STEP IN +BRINING</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVI'>XVI.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVI'>CURING, SMOKING AND +PRESERVING MEAT</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVII'>XVII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVII'>PRESERVED OR "CANNED" +EGGS</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVIII'>XVIII.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XVIII'>HOME STORAGE OF +VEGETABLES</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIX'>XIX.</a></td> +<td align='left'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIX'>HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED +PRODUCE</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<h1>EVERY STEP IN CANNING</h1> +<br> +<a name='CHAPTER_I' id="CHAPTER_I"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER I</h2> +<h3>GETTING READY TO CAN</h3> +<br> +<p>Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of +canning, preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California +fruits by the case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen +cans, according to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was +cheaper and decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, +greens, soups and meats than to take time and strength in the very +hottest season of the year to do our own canning.</p> +<p>But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us +thrift. The crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has +sunk into our minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods +have been adopted by the modern woman. Women who had never canned +in days before the war had to can during war days. Food was so +scarce and so high in price that to buy fancy or even plain canned +products was a severe strain on the average housewife's purse. The +American woman, as was to be expected, came quickly and eagerly to +the front with the solution and the slogan: "More gardens and more +canning and preserving at home."</p> +<p>A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As +I have just said, women who had never canned before became vitally +interested in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, +but jars upon jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so +great was their delight in the finished products that again and +again I heard them say: "Never again shall we depend upon the +grocery to supply us with canned goods."</p> +<p>If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that +their grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just +the same, because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they +would have canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so +apparent during the summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a +result of new canning methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. +The women of to-day were forced into a new field and learned how +satisfying and well worth while the results were. It is safe to +guarantee that every home-canning recruit will become a +home-canning veteran.</p> +<p>The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned +how simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear +that home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the +immediate necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own +because of the war, and it has come to stay because of its many +merits.</p> +<p>There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all +over the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the +"intermittent," the "cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods.</p> +<br> +<p><b>DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS</b></p> +<p>The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was +largely used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in +the preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized +jars, after which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar +is done after the sterilization has been completed, there is always +a possibility of bacteria and spores entering the jar with the +cooked food and the air. Fruits can be handled successfully in this +way, but this method cannot be used for vegetables, greens and +meats. It is a very laborious, hot and hard way to can. Modern +housewives are discarding it more and more every year and are +beginning to place their trust in the newer and far more scientific +methods of canning.</p> +<p>The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still +beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture +into the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all +fruits and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where +they say the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great +objection to this method of canning is that it requires three +periods of sterilization on three different days and three liftings +of jars in and out of the sterilizer.</p> +<p>What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning +should not be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The +"cold-water" is often used in connection with the canning of +rhubarb, green gooseberries and a comparatively few other sour +berry fruits. If the "cold-water" method is used we would suggest +that the product be thoroughly washed, placed in a strainer, +scalding water poured over it, and the product then packed at once, +in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and clean, cold water +applied until the jars are filled. If these steps are taken +carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be successful +with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products will have +to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not +consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE COLD-PACK METHOD</b></p> +<p>The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is +known as the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight +to prove that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory +process for busy housewives to can everything that grows.</p> +<p>This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, +and if I should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am +referring to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are +packed cold in their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or +containers. To the fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables +hot water and a little salt are added. The sterilization is done in +the glass jars or tin containers after they are partly or entirely +sealed, making it practically impossible for bacteria or spores to +enter after the product has once been carefully sterilized or +cooked. In following this method vegetables should first be +blanched in boiling water or live steam, then quickly plunged into +cold water and the skins removed. The products are then packed in +containers and sterilized according to the instructions and recipes +given later.</p> +<p>When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the +product for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled +with food. It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, +processing, boiling and cooking are all interchangeable terms and +mean one and the same thing.</p> +<p>By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food +products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be +successfully sterilized in a single period with but one handling of +the product in and out of the canner.</p> +<p>All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy +pulp, and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than +in any other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is +eliminated and all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause +vegetables and meat to spoil are destroyed.</p> +<br> +<p><b>EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL</b></p> +<p>For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you +have in the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many +of us have purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn +out more at the end of a day and have found it well worth while to +invest a few dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more +efficient. But if you are a beginner and do not care to put any +money in an unknown venture use the available things at hand, just +to prove to yourself and others that it can be done.</p> +<p>Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those +which are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and +basements and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good +condition and will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good +rubber you can use that jar.</p> +<p>If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor +economy to use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably +responsible for more spoiled canned goods than any other cause. +Good tops and good rubbers are requisites for good canning.</p> +<p>For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a +galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail—a new +one, of course. Either is excellent where the family is small and +the canning is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the +cookstove while others employ a large vat. If you should have to +buy the wash boiler or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover +and be sure the pail does not leak. Then all you have to do is to +secure what we call a false bottom, something that will keep the +jars of fruit from touching the direct bottom of the boiler or +pail. This false bottom, remember, is absolutely necessary, for +without it the jars will break during the boiling.</p> +<p>For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and +cut it to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or +bucket. If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a +wooden bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not +available put thin pieces of wood in the bottom—anything to +keep the jars from coming in direct contact with the bottom of the +sterilizer.</p> +<p>If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use +a deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. +This rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars +from becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a +tendency for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be +lost. Do not use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a +false bottom; they are unsatisfactory because they do not allow +proper circulation of water.</p> +<p>Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by +many women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the +market and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned +fingers. Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies +with you, individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will +hold all your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them +separately.</p> +<p>To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no +matter what kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper +than the tallest jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra +inch or two so that the water will not boil over.</p> +<p>Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you +will need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may +be put for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water—if +you haven't running water—for the "cold dip."</p> +<p>If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar +lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the +canner. If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as +they contain an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher +for lifting the jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, +such as scales, knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of +cheesecloth or muslin for blanching or scalding the product, and +the kitchen clock play their part in canning.</p> +<p>No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product +is cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food +will be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is +desired to add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may +be done when the product is packed in the jar.</p> +<p>A great many people have been led to believe through advertising +matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds +for the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep +under the commonly known methods of canning. The first argument +against the use of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It +is possible to sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on +tree, vine, shrub or in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period +method of canning, without the use of a compound. The second +argument against it is that many of the canning compounds are +positively harmful to health. Some of them contain as high as +ninety-five per cent of boric acid. Directors of county and state +fairs should exclude from entry all fruits and vegetables that have +been preserved in any canning compound. Perfect fruit can be +produced without any chemical preservative. The third argument is +that they are expensive.</p> +<p>There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and +garbage pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath +outfits. In these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling +water.</p> +<p>There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the +product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally +used for everyday cookery.</p> +<p>The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the +aluminum pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards +the time required to sterilize food.</p> +<p>Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and +manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the +hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or +hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing.</p> +<p>The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated +but more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker +because it can be used for everyday cooking in the home.</p> +<p>Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, +as they are used daily and not just during the canning season.</p> +<p>Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a +hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen +minutes; in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, +twelve minutes; in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of +steam, ten minutes; in an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten +pounds of steam, five minutes.</p> +<p>It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath +outfit; the shortest and quickest method is with the pressure +cooker that has a pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife +has different financial problems, different hours of working and +different ways of working. Where quick work is desired and expense +is no item the pressure cooker is advisable; where money is scarce +and time is no object the homemade outfit answers. Each one must +decide which outfit is best for her own particular case. It matters +not which outfit you have—they have all been thoroughly +tested and approved by experts. Each one does the work.</p> +<p>This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart +kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart +measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar +opener; wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for +blanching; pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one +tablespoon; one teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring +cup; jar lifter; either a rack for several jars or individual jar +holders; and a clock.</p> +<p>The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept +busy during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices +for outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the +young people of your family and give them something definite and +worth while to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must +be kept busy—if not usefully employed they are often inclined +to mischief. This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can +be used in the back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the +front yard.</p> +<p>Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of +heat required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for +canning are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of +500 feet above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot +increase in altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the +time required as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning +of all kinds of fruits, vegetables, greens and meats.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_II' id="CHAPTER_II"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER II</h2> +<h3>SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</h3> +<br> +<p>Having decided on your canning outfit, whether you are going to +can in boiling water, in a condensed steam cooker, or in steam +under pressure; having gathered together the necessary tools, such +as spoons, knives and a funnel; having raided the storeroom and +collected some jars, you are now ready for the actual work of +canning.</p> +<p>It is rather unfortunate that strawberries should be one of the +very hardest products to can with good results. The canning itself +is simple—all berries are quickly and easily canned—but +strawberries always shrink, are apt to turn a little brown, and, +what distresses us most of all, they float to the top of the +jar.</p> +<p>The berry's tendency to shrink is responsible for loss of color +as well as its floating qualities. However, if you will be +exceedingly careful to remove the berries from the canner the +minute the clock says the sterilizing period is over, you will have +a fairly good product. Two minutes too long will produce a very +dark, shrunken berry. So be careful of the cooking time. Another +thing that makes a good-looking jar is to pack a quart of +berries—all kinds of berries, not merely +strawberries—into a pint jar. If you will get that many in +you will have a much better-looking jar, with very little liquid at +the bottom. It does not hurt the berries at all to gently press +down on them with a silver spoon while you are packing them into +the jar.</p> +<p>We know we are going to get a quart of berries into every pint +jar, so we know just how many quarts of berries we will need to +fill the necessary jars for the next winter's use.</p> +<p>The first thing to do is to test each jar to see that there are +no cracks, no rough edges to cut the rubber, and to see whether the +cover and clamp fit tightly, if a clamp type of jar is used. The +bail that clamps down the glass tops should go down with a good +spring. If it does not, remove the bail and bend it into shape by +taking it in both hands and pressing down in the middle with both +thumbs. Do not bend it too hard, for if it goes down with too much +of a snap it will break the jar. This testing of the bails should +be done every year. The bails on new jars are sometimes too tight, +in which case remove the bail and spread it out. After the bail has +been readjusted, test it again. The chances are it will be just +right. Of course all this testing takes time, but it pays.</p> +<p>If you are using some old Mason jars put a rubber on each jar, +fill the jar with hot water, and then put the cover on tight and +invert. This is a sure test for leakage. Never use a Mason cap +twice unless the cover and collar are separate so that both can be +completely sterilized. Fortunately the old-fashioned Mason jar +metal cover to which a porcelain cap is fastened is going out of +style.</p> +<p>If you still have some of these old covers it will be economy to +throw them away. You will be money ahead in the end. After these +tops have been used once it is impossible to make a fastening +between the porcelain and the metal so tight that it is not +possible for the liquid to seep through and cause the contents to +spoil. This accounts for many failures when old tops are used. For +this reason never use the old-fashioned, zinc-topped covers.</p> +<p>The new and safe Mason jar covers consist of two parts, the +metal collar and the porcelain cap. They are for sale at all +grocery or hardware stores.</p> +<p>If you are using the vacuum-seal jars which have a composition +attached to the lacquered tops, carefully examine this rubber +composition to see that it is perfect. This composition should go +entirely round the top and should not be cut or broken in any +place. If it is the top must be discarded for a perfect one.</p> +<p>Of course with this type of jar no rubber rings are necessary, +as the rubber composition on the lacquered top does the +sealing.</p> +<p>It is a wise plan to go round the tops and over the inside of +all new glass jars with a heavy and dull knife to scrape off any +slivers of glass or bursted blisters that may be still clinging to +the jars. Those on the tops cut through the rubber and cause +leakage. Those in the jars may get into the product. I often find +these splinters, particularly on new straight-sided jars.</p> +<p>It matters not what type of jar you use. Use what you have at +hand, but if you are buying new jars consider the following things +before making your selections: No metal, unless it is enameled or +lacquered, should come in contact with the food. The jars should be +of smooth, well-finished glass. The color of the jar does not +affect the keeping qualities of the food. The top or part of the +top that comes in contact with the contents should be all in one +piece, so as not to offer a place for the accumulation of organisms +and dirt. The jars which have nearly straight sides and a wide +mouth or opening are easier to wash and facilitate better, quicker +and easier packing of the product.</p> +<p>Wash the jars in soap and water. Rinse in boiling water. Some +people temper new jars so they will stand the shock of hot water or +hot sirup without breaking. If you wish to take this extra +precaution put the jars in a dishpan or kettle of cold water after +they have been washed in soapy water; bring the water slowly to a +boil and let it boil fifteen minutes. After the jars are ready test +the rubber rings. This may seem a useless precaution, but it is a +necessary one, for there is no one detail in the business of +canning that is more important. Even in the best boxes of rubbers +there is occasionally a black sheep, and one black sheep may cause +the loss of a jar.</p> +<p>Test each rubber before you use it by pressing it firmly between +the thumbs and forefingers, stretching it very slightly. If it +seems soft and spongy discard it. All rubbers fit for canning +should be firm, elastic, and should endure a stretching pull +without breaking. A good rubber ring will return promptly to place +without changing the inside diameter.</p> +<p>A great many women are laboring under the wrong impression that +color affects the quality of a ring. Some women insist on red, and +others on white. Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter +during the manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index +to its usefulness in home canning.</p> +<p>Use only fresh, sound strawberries or other berries. There is a +little knack about preparing the strawberries that few housewives +know. Hull the berries by <i>twisting the berries off the hull</i>, +instead of pulling the hull from the berry as most women do. You +will have a better-looking berry if you will be careful about this. +Place the berries in a strainer and pour cold water over them to +cleanse them.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO ADJUST THE COVERS</b></p> +<p>Never allow the berries or any fruit to stand in water, as the +flavor and color are destroyed by water-soaking. Pack in glass +jars, pressing the berries down tightly, but without crushing them. +Put the rubber on the jar if you are using a jar requiring a +rubber. Pour hot sirup over the berries. Put the top of the jar in +place, but only partially tighten it.</p> +<p>If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, screw down with +the thumb and little finger, not using force but stopping when the +cover catches.</p> +<p>If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in +place. The spring will give enough to allow the steam to +escape.</p> +<p>In using glass-top jars with the patent wire snap, put the cover +in place, the wire over the top and leave the clamp up.</p> +<p>The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while the product is +cooking, because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover +is not loose enough to allow the steam to escape the pressure may +blow the rubber out or break the jar.</p> +<p>The product is now ready for the canner.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STERILIZING</b></p> +<p>If you are using the homemade outfit, such as wash-boiler or +garbage pail, all berries and soft fruits are sterilized sixteen +minutes; in all commercial hot-water-bath outfits and in condensed +steam, sixteen minutes; in the water-seal, twelve minutes; in the +steam pressure under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; and in the +pressure cooker under ten pounds of steam, five minutes. Do not +allow the pressure to run above ten pounds for soft fruits; fifteen +pounds makes them mushy.</p> +<p>If you use any type of hot-water-bath outfit be sure the water +is boiling when the fruit is lowered into the canner, and <i>keep +it boiling</i> vigorously for the entire sixteen minutes. At the +end of the sterilizing time, <i>immediately</i> remove the jars +from the canner.</p> +<p>In taking canned goods from boiling water care is needed to see +that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows +and doors while lifting the jars out, as a sudden draft might break +them.</p> +<p>Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes if a +cover is screwed down too tight the pressure of the steam from the +inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a +thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then +tighten.</p> +<p>In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a +poor rubber it should be replaced by a new one, and the jar +returned to the cooker for five minutes.</p> +<p>The jars should be sealed tight—covers screwed down, +clamps put in place—immediately after they are removed from +the cooker.</p> +<p>Invert the jar to test the joint, then let it cool. If the seal +is not perfect correct the fault and return the jar to the cooker +for five minutes if hot, ten minutes if the jar is cold.</p> +<p>Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool, +and then be tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the +jars by the cover only. Lift the jar only half an inch, holding it +over the table, so that in case the lid does not hold the jar and +contents will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge +of the cover with a rule. An imperfect seal will give a hollow +sound.</p> +<p>As light injures delicately colored fruits and vegetables, it is +wise to store them in dark places, such as cupboards, or basement +or attic shelves protected from the light. Black cambric tacked to +the top shelf and suspended over the other shelves is a sufficient +protection from light. A discarded window shade can be rolled down +over the shelves and easily pulled up when you desire to take a jar +from the shelves.</p> +<p>Canned goods are best kept at a temperature below seventy +degrees Fahrenheit, where that is at all possible.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</b></p> +<p>It might be well to enumerate the steps in berry and soft-fruit +canning, or do what we called in our schooldays "review it":</p> +<p>1. Get the canner and all its accessories ready.</p> +<p>2. Test and wash jars and tops and put in water to +sterilize.</p> +<p>3. Test rubber rings.</p> +<p>4. Make sirup and put in double boiler to keep hot</p> +<p>5. Prepare the product—hull, seed, stem.</p> +<p>6. Place berries or fruit in strainer or colander.</p> +<p>7. Rinse by pouring cold water over product.</p> +<p>8. Pack from strainer into hot jar.</p> +<p>9. Use big spoon to get a firm pack.</p> +<p>10. Dip rubber in hot water to cleanse it and put it in place on +the jar.</p> +<p>11. Pour the hot sirup over the fruit at once.</p> +<p>12. Put top of jar on, but not tight.</p> +<p>13. Ready for canner.</p> +<p>14. Sterilize for the necessary length of time, according to the +outfit you are using:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hot-water-bath outfit</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Condensed-steam outfit</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water-seal outfit</td> +<td align='center'>12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure, 5 pounds, outfit</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pressure cooker, 10 pounds, outfit</td> +<td align='center'>5</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>15. Remove from canner.</p> +<p>16. Tighten cover, except vacuum-seal jar, which seals +automatically.</p> +<p>17. Test joint.</p> +<p>18. Three or four days later, if perfectly air-tight, label and +store in a dark place.</p> +<p>These steps are followed for strawberries, blackberries, +blueberries, dewberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, raspberries, +and for all soft fruits, such as cherries, currants, grapes and +figs.</p> +<p>The other soft fruits, such as peaches and apricots, which have +a skin, are scalded or "hot dipped" for one to two minutes in +boiling water or steam and are then plunged into cold water. These +two steps of hot-dipping and cold dipping make the removal of skins +a very simple operation. After the skins are removed the fruit is +put into the hot jars and the process continued from Step 8, as +with strawberries.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SIRUPS</b></p> +<p>Of course you are wondering about the sirups for the different +fruits. There is no set rule for making sirup. It is not necessary +to use sirup in canning fruits. The amount of sugar used in the +sirup will depend upon the individual taste. In a first-class +product there should be enough sirup to improve its flavor, but not +enough to make it take the place in the diet of a sweet preserve +rather than a fresh fruit.</p> +<p>The sirups are made either with varying proportions of sugar and +water or with the same proportions boiled different lengths of +time. What is known as the California sirup is made with three +parts of sugar to two parts of water, boiled gently to different +concentrations.</p> +<p><b>Thin Sirup</b>. For a thin sirup take three cups of sugar and +two cups of water. Mix sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. +This is used for all sweet fruits not too delicate in texture and +color, as apples, cherries, pears, or for fruits in which more +sugar will be added in preparation for the table.</p> +<p><b>Medium Thin Sirup</b>. The sugar and water should be boiled +about four minutes, or until it begins to be sirupy. This is used +for raspberries, peaches, blackberries, currants, etc.</p> +<p><b>Medium Thick Sirup</b>. Boil the sugar and water until it +will pile up over the edge of the spoon when it is tipped. This is +used for sour or acid fruits, as plums, gooseberries, apricots, +sour apples, and some of the delicately colored fruits, as +strawberries.</p> +<p><b>Thick Sirup</b>. The sugar and water are boiled until it will +form a ball in the spoon and cannot be poured from the spoon. This +is used for preserves.</p> +<p>It is possible to get more, sometimes almost twice as much, +sirup into a quart jar containing large fruits, as apples and +pears, than into a quart jar containing small fruits, as currants +or blackberries.</p> +<p>There is a little knack worth knowing about combining the sugar +and water for the sirup. If the sugar is sifted into the boiling +water just as fine-grained cereals are sifted into water, there +will be no scum formed. This is a saving of sugar.</p> +<p>If you wish to can strawberries for the market or to win a prize +at the county or state fairs, can them as follows:</p> +<p>Canned by this recipe, strawberries will not rise to the top of +the sirup. Use only fresh, ripe, firm and sound berries. Prepare +them, and add eight ounces of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water +to each quart of berries. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes in an +enameled or acid-proof kettle. Allow the berries to cool and remain +several hours or over-night in the covered kettle. Pack the cold +berries in hot glass jars. Put rubbers and caps of jars in +position, not tight. Sterilize for the length of time given below +for the type of outfit used:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water bath, homemade or commercial</td> +<td align='center'>8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water seal, 214 degrees</td> +<td align='center'>6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 pounds steam pressure</td> +<td align='center'>5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>10 pounds steam pressure.</td> +<td align='center'>Do not use.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool and +test the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to prevent bleaching.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_III' id="CHAPTER_III"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER III</h2> +<h3>HARD FRUITS</h3> +<br> +<p><b>PINEAPPLES</b></p> +<p>The object of canning citrus fruits is, first, to save the +surplus and by-products; second, to furnish wholesome fruits at +reasonable cost to more of our people; third, to help the producer +to transform by-products into net profits.</p> +<p>Almost every one likes canned pineapple, but some housewives +stopped canning this fruit because they found that when cooked in +sirup it seemed to get tough and less palatable. Vegetable and +fruit fibers are toughened when cooked with sugar for any length of +time, so in all cases where you desire to keep the product as +Nature grew it avoid this form of cooking.</p> +<p>When the product is put into the jars with a sirup and cooked in +the jar you will have a product superior to the one that is cooked +over the direct fire in the kettle with the sirup.</p> +<p>But pineapple slices or pieces are so hard they cannot be put +directly into the jars as berries are. Pineapples must undergo a +preliminary process to make them palatable and soft. This +preliminary process is known in canning as "blanching."</p> +<p>After the pineapple has been prepared by paring and removing the +eyes, it can be left in slices or cut into cubes. In cutting hold +the pineapple at the top and use a sharp knife. It is then placed +in a wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth for the blanching. +Blanching means to immerse the product in boiling water for a +certain length of time to reduce its bulk and soften it.</p> +<p>Pineapples are blanched for five minutes. We scald peaches and +apricots, which are soft fruits; but we blanch pineapples, apples +and quinces, the hard fruits.</p> +<p>Scalding means to immerse the product in boiling water for a +very short time—just long enough to loosen the skins. +Blanching is just a longer period of scalding.</p> +<p>When you blanch pineapples use only enough water to cover them. +This same blanching water can be used for making the sirup. It +contains much of the pineapple flavor and there is no reason for +discarding it. But this is absolutely the only blanching water that +is ever used. All other blanching water, particularly that in which +vegetables are blanched, is full of objectionable acids that we +want to get rid of, so under no circumstances must it be used. But +with pineapples the object of blanching is primarily to soften the +hard fiber, so there is no objection to using the blanching +water.</p> +<p>After the pineapple has been in the covered kettle of boiling +water for five minutes, it is held under cold water until cool +enough to handle. Never let it soak in cold water, as that will +impair its delicate flavor. After this it is packed into hot +sterilized jars. Rubber rings are put on the jars, the covers are +put in place—not tight—and the jars are put in the +canner.</p> +<p>Pineapple is sterilized for thirty minutes in a hot-water-bath +outfit; thirty minutes in a condensed steam outfit; twenty-five +minutes in the water-seal; twenty-five minutes in the steam +pressure under five pounds of steam, and eighteen minutes in the +pressure cooker under ten pounds of pressure. At the end of the +sterilizing period the jars are removed, the covers completely +tightened and the joints carefully tested for leakage.</p> +<p>A thin or medium-thin sirup is best for pineapples. Measure the +blanching water and to every two cups of it add three cups of +sugar. If you wish the sirup thin heat until the sugar is +dissolved. If medium-thin sirup is desired, boil it about four +minutes or until it begins to be sirupy.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING PINEAPPLE</b></p> +<p>1. Cut the pineapple into slices of desired thickness.</p> +<p>2. Pare the slices. It is easier to pare the slices than to pare +the whole pineapple.</p> +<p>3. Remove the eyes, using pineapple scissors to facilitate the +work.</p> +<p>4. Blanch pineapple for five minutes in a small amount of +boiling water, using a wire basket or cheesecloth.</p> +<p>5. Cold-dip the pineapple.</p> +<p>6. Make a sirup, using the blanching water. Make a thin or +medium-thin sirup.</p> +<p>7. Pack the pineapple into hot sterilized jars, with good +rubbers on them.</p> +<p>8. Pour the sirup over the pineapple.</p> +<p>9. Put the tops of the jars on—not tight.</p> +<p>10. Sterilize for 30 minutes in hot-water-bath outfit, 30 +minutes in condensed-steam outfit, 25 minutes in water-seal outfit, +25 minutes in steam pressure (5 pounds), 18 minutes in pressure +cooker (10 pounds).</p> +<p>11. Remove from canner, tighten covers and inspect rubber and +joints.</p> +<br> +<p><b>APPLES</b></p> +<p>Here are six ways in which canned apples may be used: as a +breakfast dish, with cream and sugar; baked like fresh apples; in +apple salad, often served for lunch or supper; as a relish with +roast pork—the apples may be fried in the pork fat or the +cores may be cooked with roast pork for flavoring; and for apple +dumplings, deep apple pie and other desserts in which whole apples +are desirable. The sirup of canned whole apples can be used for +pudding sauces or fruit drinks.</p> +<p>Apples are another hard fruit which require blanching, as it +greatly improves their texture and appearance.</p> +<p>Apples and some other fruits, such as pears and quinces, have a +tendency to turn brown when allowed to stand after they are cut. To +prevent their discoloring the pieces may be dropped into mild salt +water as they are pared and sliced. Let them stand for five +minutes, then wash them in clear water and pack. Use a thin sirup +for canning apples.</p> +<p>Summer apples are not firm enough to keep well when canned. They +cook up and lose flavor. They may, however, be canned to be used in +a short time. Windfall apples may be pared, cored and sliced, using +water, and only a small quantity of that, instead of sirup, and +canned for pies.</p> +<p>To be able to can windfall and cull apples and thus have them +for home use through the entire year is a great advantage to all +farmers who grow them. They can be sold on the market canned when +they would not bring a cent in the fresh state.</p> +<p>The windfall and cull apples may be divided into two grades. The +first grade would include the whole reasonably sound fruit; the +second grade the worm-eaten, partially decayed and injured fruit. +Do not can any injured or decayed part nor allow apples to become +overripe before canning.</p> +<p><b>Canning Whole Reasonably Firm Apples</b>. Wash the apples. +Remove cores and blemishes. Place whole apples in blanching tray or +blanching cloth and blanch in boiling hot water for one or two +minutes. Remove and plunge quickly into cold water. Pack in large +glass jars. Pour over the product a hot thin sirup. Place rubber +and top in position. Seal partially—not tight.</p> +<p>Sterilize jars twenty minutes in hot-water-bath outfit and in +condensed steam, fifteen minutes in water-seal, ten minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam pressure, five +minutes in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit, under ten pounds of +steam pressure. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and +test joints.</p> +<p>Firm and tart apples may be cored and peeled first, then canned +by the above recipe.</p> +<p><b>Canning Apples for Pie Filling</b>. Use second grade of +windfalls or culls. Wash, core, pare and remove all decayed spots. +Slice apple quickly into a basin containing slightly salted cold +water—about one tablespoon of salt per gallon—to +prevent discoloring. Pack fresh cold product in glass jars. Add one +cupful of hot thin sirup to each quart of fruit. Put on the rubbers +and screw on tops, but do not seal completely. Sterilize twelve +minutes in hot-water bath or condensed-steam outfit; ten minutes in +water-seal outfit; six minutes under five pounds of steam pressure; +four minutes in aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten +covers, invert to cool and test joint. Store.</p> +<p>This filling can be used for making apple pies in the same way +that fresh apples would be used, with the exception that the sirup +must be poured off and less sugar should be used. Since the apples +have already been cooked, only enough heat is needed to cook the +crust and to warm the apples through. Pies may be baked in seven +minutes. The apple pies made with these apples are, in the opinion +of many housekeepers, as good as those made with fresh fruit, and +they can be made in less time and are less expensive.</p> +<p>The only difference between canning apples for pies and salads +or whole is that when wanted for pies the apples should be sliced +immediately after placing in cold slightly salted water.</p> +<p><b>Canning Quartered Apples for Fruit Salads.</b> Select +best-grade culls of firm and rather tart varieties. Core, pare and +quarter. Drop into basin containing slightly salted cold water. +Pack these quartered pieces tightly in jars. Add a cup of hot thin +sirup to each quart. Place rubber and top in position, partially +seal—not tight. Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water bath +and condensed-steam outfits; ten minutes in water-seal outfit; six +minutes under five pounds of steam pressure; four minutes in +aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to +cool and test joints. Store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ORANGES</b></p> +<p><b>Canning Whole Oranges and Other Citrus Fruits.</b> Select +windfall or packing-plant culls. Use no unsound or decayed fruit. +Remove skin and white fiber on surface. Blanch fruit in boiling +water one and a half minutes. Dip quickly in cold water. Pack +containers full. Add boiling hot thin sirup. Place rubber and cap +in position and partially seal—not tight.</p> +<p>Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; eight minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes in +steam-pressure outfit under five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit. Remove jars, tighten covers, +invert to cool and test joints. Wrap glass jars with paper to +prevent bleaching, and store.</p> +<p><b>Canning Sliced Oranges for Salad Purposes</b>. The oranges +may be divided into their natural sections or sliced with a knife. +Pack jars or containers full. Pour over product hot thin sirup. +Place rubber and cap in position. Partially seal—not tight. +Sterilize ten minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; six minutes in water-seal outfit; five minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit under ten pounds of steam. Remove +jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test the joints. Wrap jars +with paper to prevent bleaching, and store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PEARS, QUINCES AND RHUBARB</b></p> +<p>Pears are prepared and canned just as the whole firm apples are, +being blanched a minute and a half, cold-dipped and sterilized for +the same length of time as apples.</p> +<p>Quinces are so very hard they must be blanched like pineapples, +but for a longer time. Six minutes' blanching is usually sufficient +for quinces. The sterilizing period can be determined by looking at +the chart.</p> +<p>If skins are left on rhubarb it keeps its pink color. The hot +dip is not necessary and may be omitted. It removes some of the +excessive acid in the rhubarb which makes it objectionable to some +people. Be very careful not to hot-dip the rhubarb more than one +minute, for it gets mushy. An advantage of the hot dip is that more +rhubarb can be packed in a jar after it has been hot-dipped.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WHAT A BUSHEL OF FRUIT WILL YIELD</b></p> +<p>A great many women have no conception of how many jars of fruit +they will get from a bushel or half bushel of produce. It is wise +to have a little knowledge along this line, for it aids in planning +the winter's supply of canned goods as well as at marketing +time.</p> +<p>From one bushel of the various fruits you will get on the +average the following:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center'>PRODUCTS, 1 BUSHEL</td> +<td align='center'>PINT JARS</td> +<td align='center'>QUART JARS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall apples</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard peaches</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +<td align='center'>18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges—sliced</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges—whole</td> +<td align='center'>35</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING WITHOUT SUGAR</b></p> +<p>Though all instructions indicate that sugar is necessary for the +canning of all kinds of fruits, it is not necessary for their +proper sterilization and preservation. Any fruit may be +successfully sterilized by simply adding boiling water instead of +the hot sirup. It is a well-known fact, however, that most fruits +canned in water will not retain so well their natural flavor, +texture and color as fruit canned in sirup. When the product is to +be used for pies, salads, and so on it is not necessary to can in +sirup. When fruits canned in water are to be used for sauces, the +products should be sweetened before use. In many instances it +requires more sugar to sweeten a sauce after canning than it does +when the product is canned in the hot sirup.</p> +<p>However, during the World War we had a good chance to test the +fruits which we canned without sugar, when that commodity was +scarce and, in fact, impossible to get in very large quantities. We +used our fruits just as they were and considered them very good. +This all goes to show that we can easily adjust ourselves to +prevailing conditions. In canning without the sugar sirup, you +would follow these directions:</p> +<p>Cull, stem or seed, and clean fruit by placing in a strainer and +pouring water over it until clean. Pack product thoroughly in glass +jars until full; use table knife or tablespoon for packing +purposes. Pour over the fruit boiling water from kettle, place +rubbers and caps in position, partially seal glass jars and place +produce in canner.</p> +<p>If using hot-water-bath outfit sterilize from twenty to thirty +minutes. After sterilizing remove packs, seal glass jars, wrap in +paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry cool place.</p> +<p>When using a steam-pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath +sterilize for ten minutes with five pounds of steam pressure. Never +allow the pressure to go over ten pounds when you are canning soft +fruits.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WHEN TO CAN</b></p> +<p>Inexperienced canners may not know when certain fruits are in +season and at their prime for canning. The list below is +necessarily subject to change, as seasons vary from year to year; +but in normal years this table would hold true for the Northern +States.</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apricots</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Blackberries</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Currants</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gooseberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Grapes</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Huckleberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>August-September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pineapple</td> +<td align='left'>June</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='left'>August</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Quinces</td> +<td align='left'>September</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Raspberries</td> +<td align='left'>July</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Rhubarb</td> +<td align='left'>All summer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Strawberries</td> +<td align='left'>May-June</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>For your canning you will need as your guide the charts on the +pages which follow. They are very simple and will tell you how to +prepare all the various fruits, whether or not they are to be +blanched, and if so exactly how many minutes, and how long to cook +or sterilize the products, according to the outfit you are +using.</p> +<br> +<h3>CHART FOR CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='center' colspan='6' class='bb'><b>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO +STERILIZE</b></td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' valign='bottom' class='bb'>KIND OF FRUIT / +PREPARATION</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO BLANCH OR +HOT-DIP</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT +212°F</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT +214°F</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 +POUNDS</td> +<td valign='bottom' class='bb bl'>IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>REMARKS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>APRICOTS: To remove skins hot-dip and +cold-dip. Can be canned with the skins. Pits give a good +flavor</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1 to 2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>BLACKBERRIES: Pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>BLUEBERRIES: Pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CHERRIES: Wash, remove stems, and +remove pits if desired. If pitted save the juice</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup if sour; thin +sirup if sweet</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CURRANTS: Wash and pick from stems</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CRANBERRIES: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>DEWBERRIES: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>FIGS: Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Figs can be hot- dipped for a minute +or two if desired. Hot-dipping shrinks the figs so more can be +packed in a jar</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GOOSEBERRIES Wash and snip off stems +and blossom ends</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GRAPES Wash and pick from stems</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>HUCKLEBERRIES Wash and stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PEACHES Blanch and cold-dip, then +remove skins.</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1-2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10 (Use only 5 pounds +pressure.)</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>X</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>If peaches are canned under more +than 5 pounds of pressure they become flavorless and dark in +color</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PLUMS Wash; stones may be removed if +desired.</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1-2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>For sweet plums use thin or +medium-thin sirup; for sour plums use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>RASPBERRIES pick over, wash and +stem</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>RHUBARB Wash, cut into ½ inch +pieces. Use sharp knife</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Be very careful not to hot-dip the +rhubarb more than one minute, for it gets mushy</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>STRAWBERRIES Pick over, wash and +hull</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use medium-thick sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='8' class='bb'><b>HARD FRUITS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>APPLES Pare, core and cut into halves +or smaller pieces</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½ to 2</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>15</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PEARS Wash, pare or not as desired. +Small pears may be canned whole or quartered</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>15</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>PINEAPPLE Cut into slices or inch +cubes. The cores can be removed</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>18</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin or medium-thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>QUINCES Remove skins and cores. Cut +into convenient slices</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>40</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>40</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>25</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Apples, pears and quinces should be +dropped into salt water to keep fruit from turning brown. Use salt +in the proportion of one tablespoonful to one gallon of water. Use +thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>WINDFALL APPLES FOR PIE FILLING Cut +into halves</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>QUARTERED APPLES FOR SALAD</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water and save the sugar for +other purposes</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>CRAB APPLES Pare and core</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>16</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Can in water or use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='8' class='bb'><b>CITRUS FRUITS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>ORANGES, WHOLE Remove skins and white +fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>LEMONS, WHOLE Remove skins and white +fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>GRAPEFRUIT, WHOLE Remove skins and +white fiber or surface, then blanch</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>1½</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>8</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Add boiling thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>ORANGE AND OTHER CITRUS FRUITS, SLICED +Slice with a sharp knife</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>None</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>6</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>5</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>4</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>Use thin sirup</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' class='bb'>FRUITS CANNED IN WATER WITHOUT SUGAR +SIRUP</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>30</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>20</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>12</td> +<td align='left' class='bb bl'>10</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>NOTE.—When cooking products in pint or half-pint jars +deduct three or four minutes from the time given above. When +cooking in two-quart jars add 3 or 4 minutes to time. The estimates +given are for quart jars.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_IV' id="CHAPTER_IV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> +<h3>VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>It is practical to can all vegetables, even such difficult ones +as corn, peas and beans, by the cold-pack method of canning without +using any preservatives, if you will follow all directions, +instructions and the time-table accurately. Vegetable canning is a +little more complicated than fruit canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOMATOES</b></p> +<p>Every one likes canned tomatoes. In many homes more tomatoes are +canned than any other product. The housewife uses them for soups, +for sauces and for seasoning many meat dishes. Some women say: "I +can preserve everything but tomatoes. They always spoil. What do I +do wrong?" If the following directions are followed tomatoes will +not spoil.</p> +<p>Tomatoes really are the easiest vegetable to can, because the +period of sterilization is short, and many jars may be canned in a +day, or if one is very busy a few jars may be canned daily without +the expenditure of a great deal of time.</p> +<p>The best tomatoes for canning are those of moderate size, smooth +and uniformly ripe. When a tomato ripens unevenly or when it is +misshapen, it is difficult to peel, and the percentage of waste is +high. Tomatoes should not be picked when they are green or partly +ripe, for the flavor will not be so good as when they are allowed +to remain upon the vines until fully ripe. Care should be taken, +however, not to allow them to become overripe before canning.</p> +<p>In no instance should a tomato with a rotten spot be canned, +even though the spot is cut out, for the occasional spoiled jar +resulting from this attempted saving will cost more than the partly +spoiled tomatoes are worth. If the housewife will can only +uniformly ripe, sound tomatoes, saving the small, uneven but sound +fruit for tomato <i>purée</i>, she will have a much +better-looking pack and greater food value at the close of the +season. Yellow tomatoes may be canned in the same manner as are the +more common red varieties, except that it is not necessary to +remove the cores.</p> +<p>First of all, grade for ripeness, size and quality; this is to +insure a high-grade product. We could, of course, can different +sizes and shades together, but uniform products are more pleasing +to the eye and will sterilize much more evenly. If the products are +of the same ripeness and quality, the entire pack will receive the +proper degree of cooking.</p> +<p>Wash the tomatoes. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Put the +tomatoes in a wire basket, or lay them on a piece of cheesecloth or +a towel, twist the ends together to form a sack, and let this down +into the kettle. It is a good plan to slip a rubber band round the +neck of this sack to hold the ends in place. The ends should be +long enough to stand up out of the water and so avoid danger of +burning the fingers when removing the product.</p> +<p>Have the water boiling hard. Lower the tomatoes into the boiling +water. This is called scalding the tomatoes. We scald the tomatoes +to loosen the skin. If the tomatoes are very ripe, one minute +scalding will be sufficient. The average length of time for +tomatoes, just perfect for canning, is one and a half minutes. Do +not leave the tomatoes in the hot water until the skins break, as +this gives them a fuzzy appearance.</p> +<p>The scalding kettle always should be covered, to keep in all the +heat possible. Begin to time from the minute the product is +immersed in the boiling water. If you wait until the water comes +back to a boil, you will scald the product too long and have mushy +tomatoes.</p> +<p>Lift the tomatoes out of the hot water and plunge them +immediately into cold water, or hold them under the cold-water +faucet. The cold-dip makes them easier to handle, separates the +skin from the pulp, firms the texture, and coagulates the coloring +matter so it stays near the surface, giving them a rich, red color. +Then the shock due to the sudden change from hot to cold and back +to hot again seems to help kill the spores. Do not let the product +stand in the cold-dip. The water becomes lukewarm, softens the +product and allows bacteria to develop.</p> +<p>Take the tomato in the left hand and with a sharp knife cut out +the core. Be careful not to cut into the fleshy portion or seed +cells, for this will scatter the seeds and pulp through the liquid, +injuring the appearance of the product. Cut out the core before +removing the skin, for the skin will protect the pulp and there +will be less danger of breaking the tomato. If the tomatoes are +ripe and have been scalded properly, the skin can be slipped off +with the fingers.</p> +<p>The jars, rubbers and tops should be ready. Glass jars should be +hot, so there will be no danger of breakage in setting them in the +hot water, and so they will not cool the water in the cooker below +the boiling point.</p> +<p>Pack the tomatoes whole, pressing and shaking them well down +together, but not using force enough to crush them.</p> +<p>Now we come to a point where tomatoes are different from most +vegetables. Beans, carrots, peas, and so on, have hot water added +to them. But as a large part of the tomato is water, no more is +needed. Another exception where no water is needed is with the +"greens family." So with tomatoes we add no water, but add one +teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of sugar, just for +seasoning, to every quart jar. I think that tomatoes always are +improved by the addition of a little sugar, but this is not +necessary and can be omitted, as also can be the salt.</p> +<p>The salt in canning does not act as a preservative, but as +seasoning; so if for any reason you forget the salt, do not be +alarmed. Your products will keep perfectly without the salt.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE WAY TO SEAL</b></p> +<p>The products are in the hot jars now. The jars do not need to be +full in order to keep. If you were canning by the "open-kettle" +method, the air in the partly filled jar would not have been +sterilized, and might contain the bacteria which cause the product +to ferment or mold. But by the cold pack, the air in the can is +sterilized while the product is being sterilized; and if the can is +closed immediately after cooking, a single spoonful may be canned +in a two-quart jar and the product will keep indefinitely.</p> +<p><b>Place Rubber and Cover on Jar.</b> Fit the rubber. Use good +rubbers and see that they lie flat and fit close up to the can. Put +the covers in place.</p> +<p><b>Do Not Seal Glass Jars Tight.</b> If using screw-top jars +screw each cover down until it catches, then turn a quarter of a +round back; or screw down with the thumb and little finger, not +using force but stopping when the cover catches.</p> +<p>If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in +place. The spring will give enough to allow the steam to +escape.</p> +<p>If using glass-top jars, with the patent wire snap, put the +cover in place, the wire over the top and the clamp up.</p> +<p>The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while processing, +because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is not +loose enough to allow the steam to escape, the pressure may blow +the rubber out or break the jar.</p> +<p>When canning in tin we cap and tip the cans at once. The tin +will bulge out, but is strong enough to withstand the pressure, and +when the contents cool the can will come back into shape.</p> +<p>The jars are now ready for the canner. Tomatoes sterilized under +boiling water require twenty-two minutes; in condensed-steam +cooker, twenty-two minutes; in water-seal, eighteen minutes; in +steam-pressure, with five pounds, fifteen minutes, and in the +pressure cooker, at ten or fifteen pounds, ten minutes.</p> +<p>If you use the homemade outfit or any water-bath outfit be sure +the water is boiling when the jars of tomatoes are lowered into the +canner. Time lost in bringing the contents to the point of +sterilization softens the tomatoes and results in inferior goods. +Use the ordinary good sense with which you have been endowed in +handling the jars and you will have no breakage. At the end of the +sterilizing period, remove the jars.</p> +<p>In taking canned goods from boiling hot water, care is needed to +see that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the +windows and doors while lifting the jars out, for a sudden draft +might break them.</p> +<p>Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes, if the +covers are screwed down too tight, the pressure of the steam from +the inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover +a thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. +In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber, it should be replaced by a new one and the jar returned to +the cooker for five minutes.</p> +<p>The jars should be sealed tight—covers screwed down, +clamps put in place—immediately after they are removed from +the cooker.</p> +<p>Invert to test the joint and cool. If the seal is not perfect, +correct the fault, and return the jar to the cooker for five +minutes if hot, ten minutes if jar is cold.</p> +<p>Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool +and then tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the +jars by the cover only. Lift the jar only a half inch, holding it +over the table so that, in case the lid does not hold, the jar and +contents will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge +of the cover with a ruler. An imperfect seal will cause a hollow +sound.</p> +<p><b>Tomato Purée.</b> Small, misshapen, unevenly ripened +tomatoes may be converted into tomato <i>purée</i>. The +tomatoes should be washed, run through a colander to remove skins +and cores, concentrated by cooking to about half the original +volume, and packed in the jars. Rubbers and tops should then be +placed in position and the product sterilized for the same length +of time as for canned tomatoes. <i>Purée</i> even may be +kept in bottles sealed with sterilized corks and dipped several +times in paraffin.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW OTHER VEGETABLES ARE CANNED</b></p> +<p>All other vegetables are canned exactly like tomatoes, with two +exceptions. Tomatoes are scalded. All other vegetables are +blanched. We scald tomatoes to loosen the skins and to start the +flow of the coloring matter, which is later arrested or coagulated +by the cold-dip.</p> +<p>Blanching is scalding, only for a longer time. Scalding is never +for more than two minutes. Blanching covers from three to thirty +minutes.</p> +<p>We blanch beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, +and so on, for three to ten minutes. We blanch these vegetables to +eliminate any objectionable acids or bitter flavors which may be +present, and thus improve the flavor; to reduce the bulk so we can +pack closer; to start the flow of the coloring matter; to improve +the texture of the vegetables by making them more tender, and to +improve the appearance by helping to make clear the liquid in the +jar. Blanching is what makes for success in the cold-pack method of +canning. Blanching is <i>very</i> important and must be carefully +and accurately done.</p> +<p>Let me repeat about blanching: Have the kettle of blanching +water <i>boiling vigorously, completely immerse</i> the product in +the boiling water, cover the kettle <i>immediately</i> and begin to +time the product. Do not stand with the cover in hand and wait for +the water to come back to the boil, for, of course, it stopped +boiling for a second when you lowered into it the cold product. If +you cover the kettle the water will quickly reboil. Do not keep +wondering if it is boiling and take off the cover to see. All these +may seem foolish precautions, but it is necessary to follow +directions accurately.</p> +<p>And remember, all things that are scalded or blanched must be +followed immediately by a cold plunge or "cold-dip." The scalding +or blanching is the "hot-dip," and this must be followed by the +"cold-dip." You may be asking, what is the point of this +"cold-dip"? It is a very logical question.</p> +<p>We "cold-dip" a product to harden the pulp under the skin and +thus permit the removal of the skin without injury to the pulp; to +coagulate the coloring matter and make it harder to dissolve during +the sterilization period and to make it easier to handle the +products in packing, and to subject the product to a sudden shock +by quick change in temperature.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN CANNING VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p>If you will follow these steps for all vegetable canning you +cannot help but be successful:</p> +<p>1. Clean jars and test rubbers. If rubbers do not return to +normal shape after stretching, do not use.</p> +<p>2. Prepare material to be canned, according to directions given +on chart.</p> +<p>3. Hot-dip—blanch or scald—the prepared food. This +process consists of immersing the prepared product in boiling water +for different lengths of time, according to the material to be +canned. See chart. Hot-dipping shrinks the product and enables one +to pack more material in a jar.</p> +<p>4. Cold-dip the material. This process consists of plunging the +blanched or scalded food into cold water, which makes it more +easily handled. Be sure the water is cold; the colder the +better.</p> +<p>Take the product out immediately and let it drain. <i>Don't let +any food soak in the cold water.</i></p> +<p>From this point on, speed is highly important. The blanched +vegetables which are slightly warm must not be allowed to remain +out of the jars a moment longer than is necessary.</p> +<p>Remove skins when required, and as each article is pared cut it +into pieces of proper size and</p> +<p>5. Pack directly into the clean, scalded cans or jars. Pack as +solidly as possible, being careful not to bruise or mash soft +products. Pack the product to within three-eighths of an inch of +the top. Lima beans, navy beans, peas, corn, pumpkin and sweet +potatoes swell, so pack them within only one inch of the top of the +jar.</p> +<p>6. Add seasoning. One teaspoonful salt to every quart jar of +vegetables, and an equal amount of sugar to tomatoes, corn and peas +if desired.</p> +<p>7. Add boiling water to within a quarter inch of top to all +vegetables, except tomatoes and greens. Tomatoes contain +ninety-four per cent water, so none should be added. Tomato juice +can be used if desired. Greens are canned in just the water that +clings to the leaves after the cold-dip.</p> +<p>8. Adjust rubber rings and the covers of the jars; partially +seal.</p> +<p>9. Sterilize—see time-table on pages following.</p> +<p>10. Remove from canner and completely seal. Test for leaks. Cool +jars as rapidly as possible, without drafts striking them.</p> +<p>Rapid cooling of the product prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture of the product.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR VARIOUS VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p><b>Greens.</b> No water is added to greens. Ninety percent of greens is +water. They are high in mineral matter and we must preserve +that.</p> +<p><b>Asparagus.</b> Remove string before packing in jar. Can or dry tough +ends for soup. If asparagus is packed in jars as whole stalks, pack +with the tips up.</p> +<p><b>Tomatoes.</b> Remove skins before packing. Tomatoes may be canned +whole or in pieces. Skin, cook and strain imperfect tomatoes. Use +this for liquid; as 94 per cent of the tomato is water, no water is +needed.</p> +<p><b>Eggplants.</b> Make slices about ½ to ¾ of an inch +thick. Do not add salt, as it causes eggplants to turn dark.</p> +<p><b>Pumpkin and squash.</b> If you do not wish to scrape out of the +shells you can remove seeds, pare and cut into small blocks of +uniform size. Then blanch.</p> +<p><b>Sweet corn.</b> Corn expands a little in processing, and for this +reason jars should not be filled quite full. Corn that has reached +the dough stage before being packed will have a cheesy appearance +after canning. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the +cold-dip water.</p> +<p><b>Field corn.</b> This product is commonly known as corn-club +breakfast food. The corn should be selected between the milk and +the dough stage. Wide-mouthed glass jars or tin cans should be used +for canning this product. Avoid packing container too full, as the +product swells during the sterilization period. The corn should be +canned the same day it is picked from the field if possible. After +this product has been sterilized and cooked and stored away it will +form a solid, butter-like mass which may be cut into convenient +slices for toasting, frying and baking purposes.</p> +<p><b>Mushrooms.</b> Do not fail to blanch and cold dip. After opening +containers remove the mushrooms immediately and use them as quickly +as possible.</p> +<p><b>Sweet peppers.</b> Place the peppers in the oven and bake them until +the skins separate from the meat. Remove the skin. Pack in hot +jars. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Add boiling water.</p> +<p><b>Lima beans.</b> Lima beans can be either blanched or steamed. If +blanched allow 5 minutes; if in live steam allow 10.</p> +<p><b>Wax or string beans.</b> Beans can be canned whole or cut into +uniform pieces.</p> +<p><b>Cabbage and cauliflower.</b> Cabbage and cauliflower should be +soaked in cold brine (½ lb. salt to 12 quarts water) for one +hour before blanching.</p> +<p><b>Brussels sprouts.</b> Use small solid heads.</p> +<p><b>Peas.</b> A cloudy or hazy appearance of the liquid indicates that +the product was roughly handled in blanching and cold dipping, or +that broken peas were not removed before packing.</p> +<p><b>Carrots and parsnips.</b> Carrots can be packed whole, in slices or +in cross-section pieces. Skin of parsnips can be scraped off after +blanching and cold dipping.</p> +<p><b>Beets.</b> Small beets that run 40 to a quart are the most suitable +size for first-class packs. Well-canned beets will show a slight +loss of color when removed from the canner, but will brighten up in +a few days.</p> +<p><b>Turnips.</b> Scrape skin after blanching and cold dipping.</p> +<p><b>Corn and tomatoes.</b> Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to every quart of +mixture. Mix 2 parts of tomatoes with 1 part corn. One teaspoonful +of sugar improves the flavor.</p> +<p><b>Corn, tomatoes and string beans.</b> Use 1 part of corn, 1 part of +green string beans and 3 parts of tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of +salt and 1 teaspoonful of sugar to every quart jar.</p> +<p><b>CHARTS FOR CANNING ALL VEGETABLES AND GREENS</b></p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td align='center' class='bb' colspan='6'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO +STERILIZE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' valign='bottom'>VEGETABLES / PREPARATION</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>SCALDING OR BLANCHING +MINUTES</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN BOILING WATER OR HOMEMADE +OUTFIT (212°F.)</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT +214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 +POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' valign='bottom'>IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left' colspan='7' class='bb'><i><b>Class 1—Greens, +Domestic and Wild</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>ALL GREENS—SPINACH, BEET TOPS, +CHARD, DANDELIONS, ETC. Pick over; wash in several waters.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Steam in colander or in steamer +until wilted Takes about 15 minutes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 2 +—Special Vegetables</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>ASPARAGUS Wash, remove woody ends; cut +to fit jar; tie in bundles.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch tough ends 4 minutes, tip +ends 2 minutes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>25, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TOMATOES Select fresh, ripe, firm +tomatoes. Skins will slip off after scalding and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Scald 1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>22</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>22</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>18</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>18</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>EGGPLANTS Remove skin after blanching +and cold dipping. Slice crosswise and pack.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch 3</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PUMPKIN AND SQUASH Cut into sections; +remove seeds; scrape shells after blanching and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Blanch 5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN—SWEET Cut corn from cob, +blanch immediately after and cold dip.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 on cob</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN—FIELD Remove husk and silk. +Cut the corn from the cob after it has been blanched and cold +dipped. Feed the corn to a food chopper and grind to a pulp. Cook +this product in a kettle, add ⅔ teaspoonful sugar and ⅓ +teaspoonful salt to each quart. Cook (stir while cooking) until the +product has assumed a thickened or pastelike mass.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>MUSHROOMS If small, can them whole; if +large they may be cut into sections.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>SWEET PEPPERS Use either green or red +peppers.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>..</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 (1¾ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 3—Pod +Vegetables and Other Green Products</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEANS—LIMA Shell and wash.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEANS—WAX OR STRING Wash and +string.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CABBAGE Use small solid heads of +cabbage.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CAULIFLOWER Use flowered portion of +cauliflower.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>20, at 15 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BRUSSELS SPROUTS Cut into sections and +remove core.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PEAS Shell and wash. Add 1 teaspoonful +of salt and 1 tea- spoonful of sugar toevery quart.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>180 (3 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 to 15 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class 4—Roots +and Tuber Vegetables</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CARROTS, PARSNIPS, SALSIFY Remove skin +by scraping after blanching and cold dipping.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BEETS To retain the color of beets +leave 3 or 4 inches of the stem and all the root on while +blanching. After cold dipping, the skin may be removed Scrape the +skin.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TURNIPS Wash thoroughly with a +vegetable brush.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90 (1½ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80 (1⅓ hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='7'><i><b>Class +5—Vegetable Combinations</b></i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN AND TOMATOES Prepare individual +vegetables and then combine and pack.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>..</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CORN,<br> +TOMATOES AND<br> +STRING BEANS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3<br> +1½<br> +5</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120 (2 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60 (1 hr)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>45, at 10 lbs.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Count from time when water begins to boil (bubbles all over). +This time schedule is for both pint and quart jars. Add 30 minutes +to time of sterilizing for 2-quart jars.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_V' id="CHAPTER_V"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER V</h2> +<h3>SOUPS</h3> +<br> +<p>After one has learned how to can fruits and vegetables +successfully, the next thing to attempt is the canning of +soups.</p> +<p>Soups may be canned with or without meat. We make one variety +which is a pure vegetable soup. We use no stock or meat, and can it +in its own juice or liquor, thus using no water.</p> +<p>When we wish to use it we dilute it three or four times and +serve it as a vegetable soup or, more frequently, when we have +chicken bones or any meat bones on hand, we add a can of this +concentrated vegetable mixture to the bones and make a delicious +stock soup.</p> +<p>I will give this recipe as I have given it to many friends, all +of whom have pronounced it excellent:</p> +<ul> +<li>1 Peck ripe tomatoes</li> +<li>1 Head cabbage</li> +<li>1 Dozen carrots</li> +<li>1 White turnip</li> +<li>3 Pounds string beans</li> +<li>1 Pound okra</li> +<li>3 Red peppers</li> +<li>1 Peck spinach</li> +<li>2 Pounds asparagus</li> +<li>6 Small beets</li> +<li>6 Ears sweet corn</li> +</ul> +<p>Scald the tomatoes by placing them in a wire basket and plunging +them into boiling water for one and a half minutes. Cold-dip them +immediately. After removing the core and stem end of the tomato, +the skin slips right off. Save all the tomato juice. Cut the +tomatoes into quarters. Put into a large pail or bucket with the +juice. Blanch the cabbage, carrots, turnip, string beans, okra and +sweet red peppers five minutes. Cold-dip. Of course you blanch and +cold-dip each product separately. Cut each vegetable after it is +blanched and cold-dipped into small cubes and add to the +tomatoes.</p> +<p>Spinach must be carefully washed to remove all grit and sand. +All greens must be washed through several waters to cleanse them +thoroughly.</p> +<p>Instead of blanching the spinach in a kettle of boiling water, +as we do the other vegetables, we steam it by placing it in a +colander over boiling water or in a regulation steamer with tightly +fitting cover, such as is used for steaming suet puddings and brown +bread. If you can with a steam-pressure canner or a pressure +cooker, then steam the spinach there. If we boiled the spinach for +fifteen or twenty minutes we would lose a quantity of the mineral +salts, the very thing we aim to get into our systems when we eat +spinach, dandelion greens, Swiss chard and other greens. After the +blanching or steaming comes the cold dip.</p> +<p>There is something about blanching asparagus, either for soups +or when canned alone, that is worth knowing. Instead of blanching +the whole stalk of asparagus for the same length of time, we use a +little discretion, giving the tougher, harder ends a full four +minutes' blanching, but allowing the tender tip ends only two +minutes. You are possibly wondering how that is done.</p> +<p>Tie the asparagus stalks in bunches and put the bunches with all +the tips standing one way on a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth +or snap rubber bands round it, and then stand the asparagus in +boiling water in an upright position for two minutes; next lay the +asparagus lengthwise in the blanching water for another two +minutes, and you have accomplished your purpose. You have given the +tougher parts two minutes' more blanching than the tender parts. +Use a deep enough kettle so the asparagus will be completely +covered when laid lengthwise. After the blanching, cold-dip the +asparagus.</p> +<p>Wash the beets. Leave two inches of the top and all the tail on +the beets while blanching. Blanch for five minutes, then cold-dip. +Next scrape off the skin, top and tail. The tops can be put right +into the soup too. Any surplus tops can be steamed with the spinach +and can be treated similarly.</p> +<p>Blanch corn on the cob five minutes. Cold-dip. Cut the corn from +the cob, cutting from tip to butt end. Add the corn to the other +vegetables. Add no water. Pack the mixed vegetables into clean +glass jars; add one level teaspoonful of salt to every jar; +partially seal; cook one hour and a half in wash-boiler or other +homemade outfit. At the end of that period remove jars from canner, +seal tight, and the work is done.</p> +<p>Of course you are interested in the cost of this soup. Most of +the ingredients came right from our garden. We had to buy the okra +and the red peppers, but I figured everything just as if I had to +buy it from the market; and on this basis, the cost of our soup +would have been only seven and a half cents a can. We canned it in +tin, using size Number Two, which is the same as pint size in glass +jars.</p> +<p>Another vegetable soup without stock, dried beans and peas being +used, is made as follows:</p> +<p>Soak six pounds of Lima beans and four pounds of dry peas over +night. Boil each thirty minutes. Blanch sixteen pounds of carrots, +six pounds of cabbage, three pounds of celery, six pounds of +turnips, four pounds of okra, one pound of onions, and four pounds +of parsley for three minutes and dip in cold water quickly. Prepare +the vegetables and chop into small cubes. Chop the onions and +celery extra fine. Mix all of them thoroughly and season to taste. +Pack in glass jars or tin cans. Fill with boiling water. Partially +seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; sixty +minutes if using water-seal outfit or five-pound steam-pressure +outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure cooker.</p> +<p>In many homes cream of tomato soup is the favorite. To make this +soup the housewife uses a tomato pulp and combines it with milk and +seasonings. You can can a large number of jars of this pulp and +have it ready for the cream soup. To make and can this pulp follow +these directions:</p> +<p><b>Tomato Pulp</b>. Place the tomatoes in a wire basket or piece +of cheesecloth and plunge into boiling water for one and a half +minutes. Plunge into cold water. Remove the skins and cores. Place +the tomatoes in a kettle and boil thirty minutes. Pass the tomato +pulp through a sieve. Pack in glass jars while hot and add a level +teaspoonful of salt per quart. Partially seal glass jars. Sterilize +twenty minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; eighteen minutes if using water-seal, or five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; fifteen minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit.</p> +<p><b>Soup Stock.</b> To make the soup stock which is the +foundation of all the stock soups, use this recipe:</p> +<p>Secure twenty-five pounds of beef hocks, joints and bones +containing marrow. Strip off the fat and meat and crack bones with +hatchet or cleaver. Put the broken bones in a thin cloth sack and +place this in a large kettle containing five gallons of cold water. +Simmer—do not boil—for six or seven hours. Do not salt +while simmering. Skim off all fat. This should make about five +gallons of stock. Pack hot in glass jars, bottles or enameled or +lacquered tin cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Sterilize forty minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; thirty minutes if using water-seal or +five-pound steam-pressure outfit; twenty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p>Soups made with soup stock are many and varied. One can utilize +the things at hand and change the distinctive flavor from year to +year. I will give you a few good specimen recipes which if followed +will give good results:</p> +<p><b>Vegetable Soup.</b> Soak a quarter pound dried Lima beans and +one pound unpolished rice for twelve hours. Cook a half pound pearl +barley for two hours. Blanch one pound carrots, one pound onions, +one medium-size potato and one red pepper for three minutes and +cold-dip. Prepare the vegetables and cut into small cubes. Mix +thoroughly Lima beans, rice, barley, carrots, onions, potato and +red pepper. Fill glass jars or the enameled tin cans three-fourths +full of the above mixture of vegetables and cereals. Make a smooth +paste of a half pound of wheat flour and blend in five gallons soup +stock. Boil three minutes and add four ounces salt. Pour this stock +over vegetables and fill cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a +water-seal or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes +if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Cream of Pea Soup.</b> Soak eight pounds of dried peas over +night. Cook until soft. Mash fine. Add the mashed peas to five +gallons of soup stock and bring to boil. Pass the boiling liquid +through a fine sieve. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour and +add paste, ten ounces of sugar and three ounces of salt to the soup +stock. Cook until soup begins to thicken. Pack in glass jars or tin +cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process +ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; eighty minutes if using water-seal outfit; seventy minutes +if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if +using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Cream of Potato Soup.</b> Boil one and a half pounds of +potatoes, sliced thin, and five gallons of soup stock for ten +minutes. Add three ounces of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper +and a half pound of butter and boil slowly for five minutes. Make +three tablespoonfuls of flour into smooth paste and add to the +above. Cook three minutes and pack in glass jars or tin cans while +hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize +ninety minutes if using a hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam +outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a water-seal outfit; +sixty-five minutes if using a five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +forty-five minutes if using a pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Bean Soup.</b> Soak three pounds of dried beans twelve hours +in cold water. Cut two pounds of ham into quarter-inch cubes and +place in a small sack. Place beans, ham and four gallons of water +in kettle and boil slowly until the beans are very soft. Remove the +ham and beans from the liquor and mash the beans fine. Return ham +and mashed beans to the liquor, add five gallons of soup stock and +seasoning, and bring to boil. Pack into jars or cans while hot. +Partially seal jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process two hours if +using hot-water-bath or condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if +using water-seal outfit; seventy-five minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; sixty minutes if using pressure cooker.</p> +<p><b>Okra Soup.</b> Slice eight pounds okra into thin slices the +round way. Blanch ten minutes and cold-dip. Boil one and a half +pounds rice for twenty-five minutes. Mix okra and rice and fill +cans or jars half full. To five gallons soup stock add five ounces +salt, a quarter teaspoonful of coriander seed and a quarter +teaspoonful of powdered cloves, and bring to boil. Fill remaining +portion of jars or cans. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Process two hours if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if using water-seal outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +sixty minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken-Soup Stock.</b> Place thirty pounds chicken in ten +gallons of cold water and simmer for five hours. Remove meat and +bones, then strain. Add sufficient water to make ten gallons of +stock. Fill glass jars or tin cans with hot stock. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. This stock is used to make soup +where the term "chicken-soup stock" is used. Process ninety minutes +if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if +using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken Broth With Rice.</b> For each gallon of soup stock +use twelve ounces of rice. Boil rice thirty minutes. Fill jars or +tin cans two-thirds full of rice and the remainder with soup stock. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety +minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if +using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using +pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<p><b>Chicken Gumbo.</b> Cut two pounds ham into small cubes and +boil thirty minutes. Mince three pounds chicken and chop half a +pound of onions fine. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour. +Add above to five gallons of chicken-soup stock. Then add a half +pound butter and a quarter pound salt and boil ten minutes. Next +add three ounces powdered okra mixed with one pint water. Pack into +glass jars or tin cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap +and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using +water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure +outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOMATO ACID CHECKS BACTERIA</b></p> +<p>Some women who have canned soup tell me it spoiled or tasted +"sourish and smelled sourish too." This is what we call "flat +sour." It may happen to any vegetable you can, as well as to the +soups. "Flat sour" affects peas, beans, asparagus and corn more +than other vegetables. If the vegetables have been picked for some +time and the bacteria have had a chance "to work," and you are not +exceedingly careful about your canning, you may develop "flat sour" +in the soup. If you let one little spore of this bacteria survive +all is lost. Its moist growing place is favorable to development, +particularly if not much acid is present. One little spore left in +a jar will multiply in twenty hours to some twenty millions of +bacteria. This twenty million can stand on the point of a needle, +so a can could acquire quite a large population in a short time. +Bacteria do not like acids, so it is always a good idea to have +tomatoes in your soup mixture, and get the tomatoes into the stone +crock early in the game. The tomato acid will safeguard the other +vegetables which lack acid.</p> +<p>If you are careless about the blanching and +cold-dipping—that is, not doing these full time—if you +work too slowly in getting the products into jars and then let the +full jars stand in the warm atmosphere, you are pretty sure to +develop "flat sour."</p> +<p>Place each jar in the canner as it is packed. The first jars in +will not be affected by the extra cooking. Have the water just +below the boiling point as you put in each jar. When you have the +canner full bring the water to the boiling point as quickly as +possible and begin to count cooking or sterilizing time from the +moment it does boil.</p> +<p>Some women make the mistake at the end of the cooking period of +letting the jars remain in the boiling water, standing on the false +bottom of the canner until they are cool enough to handle with no +danger of burning the hands. This slow method of cooling not only +tends to create "flat sour," but it is apt to result in +cloudy-looking jars and in mushy vegetables.</p> +<p>For this reason you should have in your equipment a lifter with +which you can lift out the hot jars without the hands touching +them. If you use a rack with wire handles this answers the same +purpose.</p> +<p>This "flat sour," which is not at all dangerous from the +standpoint of health, must not be confused with the botulinus +bacteria, which is an entirely different thing.</p> +<p>"Flat sour," perfectly harmless, appears often with +inexperienced canners. Botulinus, harmful, appears rarely. You need +not be at all alarmed about eating either "flat sour" or botulinus, +because the odor from spoiled goods is so distasteful—it +really resembles rancid cheese—that you would never get a +spoon of it to your mouth.</p> +<p>If you are debating whether this jar or that jar of soup or +vegetables is spoiled, do not <i>taste</i> the contents of the jar. +<i>Smell</i> it. Tasting might poison you if you happened on the +botulinus bacteria, which is so rare it need alarm no one; whereas +smelling is perfectly safe.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TIME-TABLE FOR SOUPS</b></p> +<br> +<h3>GRAY SOUP WITHOUT STOCK</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Peck ripe tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Scald 1½</td> +<td align='left'>Remove core and stem end.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Head cabbage<br> +1 Dozen carrots<br> +1 White turnip<br> +2 Pounds string beans<br> +1 Pound okra<br> +3 Red peppers</td> +<td align='left'>5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5<br> +5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into cubes after blanching</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Peck spinach</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>Steam 15 minutes or until thoroughly wilted.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>4</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small pieces after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Small beets</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into slices after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Ears sweet corn</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>Cut from cob after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Salt</td> +<td>..</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT STOCK, USING DRY LEGUMES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>6 Pounds dried Lima beans<br> +4 Pounds dried peas</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak over night, then boil<br> +for one half hour.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>16 Pounds carrots<br> +6 Pounds cabbage<br> +3 Pounds celery<br> +6 Pounds turnips</td> +<td align='left'>3<br> +3<br> +3<br> +3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small cubes after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Pounds okra</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into slices after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pound onions</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Chop fine after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Pounds parsley Salt</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into pieces after blanching.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Stock Soups)</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>25 Pounds beef hocks, joints and bones</td> +<td align='left'>Simmer for 6 or 7 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons water</td> +<td align='left'>Should make 5 Gallons stock.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +40.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 40.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 30.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 30.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 25.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>VEGETABLE SOUP WITH STOCK</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>¼ Pounds dried Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pound rice</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>¼ Pound pearl barley</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook 2 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1 Pounds carrots<br> +1 Pounds onions<br> +1 Potato<br> +1 Red Pepper</td> +<td align='left'>3<br> +3<br> +3<br> +3</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into small cubes after blanching.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +4 Ounces salt</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour and soup stock.<br> +Boil 3 minutes and add salt<br> +Pour over vegetables and fill cans.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CREAM OF PEA SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>8 Pounds dried peas</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Soak over-night and cook until soft.<br> +Mash peas fine.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons soup stock</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Add stock and boil. Put through sieve.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour<br> +10 Ounces sugar<br> +3 Ounces salt</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour, sugar and salt<br> +and add to stock. Cook until thick.<br> +Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 80.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 70.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CREAM OF POTATO SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1½ Pounds potatoes sliced thin<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +3 Ounces salt<br> +¼ Teaspoonful pepper<br> +½ Pound butter<br> +3 Tablespoonfuls flour</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Boil potatoes and stock<br> +10 minutes.<br> +Add salt, pepper, butter and boil<br> +5 minutes. Make flour<br> +into paste and add.<br> +Cook 3 minutes and can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 65.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>BEAN SOUP</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3 Pounds dried beans</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soak 12 hours.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds ham</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cut ham into ¼ inch cubes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>4 Gallons water<br> +5 Gallons soup stock<br> +Salt</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Boil beans, ham and water<br> +until beans are soft.<br> +Mash beans fine. Add<br> +stock and salt. Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +120.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 120.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 90.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 60.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CHICKEN SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Chicken Soups)</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>30 Pounds chicken<br> +10 Gallons cold water.<br> +Should make 10 gallons<br> +stock when finished</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Simmer 5 hours. Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<br> +<h3>CHICKEN GUMBO</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>INGREDIENTS</td> +<td align='left'>NUMBER OF<br> +MINUTES<br> +TO BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER PREPARATION</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2 Pounds ham</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cut ham into small cubes and boil 30 minutes.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3 Pounds chicken</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Mince chicken.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound onions</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Chop onions.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>½ Pound flour</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Make paste of flour.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>5 Gallons chicken soup stock<br> +½ Pound butter<br> +¼ Pound salt<br> +3 Ounces powdered okra<br> +mixed with pint of<br> +water</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Add all this to soup stock.<br> +Add butter and salt. Boil<br> +10 minutes. Then add<br> +okra mixed with water.<br> +Can.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h4>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE</h4> +<div style='margin-left: 25%;'> +<ul> +<li>In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, +90.</li> +<li>In condensed steam outfit, 90.</li> +<li>In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75.</li> +<li>In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60.</li> +<li>In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45.</li> +</ul> +</div> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VI' id="CHAPTER_VI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> +<h3>JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND +SIRUPS</h3> +<br> +<p>For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is +fairly acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is +just a little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or +overripe fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. +This fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. +Such fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin +and are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits.</p> +<p>The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of +pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, +though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other +marmalades.</p> +<p>Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be +made into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and +lemons to them while cooking.</p> +<p>So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is +whether or not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed +over jelly that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn +the simple test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains +pectin or not is a very easy matter.</p> +<p>Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol—90 to 95 per +cent.—and add to it one tablespoonful of <i>cooked</i> juice +that has been cooled. The effect of the alcohol is to bring +together the pectin in a jelly-like mass. If a large quantity of +pectin is present it will appear in one mass or clot which may be +gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I said <i>cooked</i> juice. +It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not found in the +juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the cooked +juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice.</p> +<p>There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, +raw grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin.</p> +<p>This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but +it also gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to +juice. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous +mass or clot this indicates that you should use three-fourths as +much sugar as juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is +less than three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less +sugar. If the pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin +to make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for +flavoring ice cream or some form of cooking.</p> +<p>By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the +jelly texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be +better.</p> +<p>After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by +washing, stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an +acid-proof kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to +prevent burning—about one cup of water to every four or five +quarts of fruit. The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so +forth. With less juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough +water to cover, or follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. +Use the cores, skins and seeds; these improve the flavor and color +of the jelly.</p> +<p>Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered +kettle, stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When +the simmering point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked +wooden masher. When the fruit is tender or has a transparent +appearance, it is ready to strain.</p> +<p>The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a +large mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie +opposite corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a +flannel or felt bag for straining the juice.</p> +<p>What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When +this Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty +minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so +many housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do +this, empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving +kettle, cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then +cover, bring slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice +that drips out is called Extraction Two.</p> +<p>The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out +whether there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin +is present, you can repeat the operation and get Extraction +Three.</p> +<p>Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you +can get as many as five extractions.</p> +<p>You may say, "Why bother with extractions—why not squeeze +the juice and be done with it?" You will get clearer, +better-flavored and more glasses of jelly if you will make the +extractions than if you squeeze the jelly bag.</p> +<p>I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but +usually combine Extraction Two and Three.</p> +<p>The next step in jelly making is vitally important—that +is, how much sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is +where many housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the +same proportion of sugar to all juices.</p> +<p>To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of +sugar must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough +or unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must +be used.</p> +<p>Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in +pectin that they require equal amounts of sugar and +juice—that is, to every cup of extracted currant and grape +juice we add one cup of sugar.</p> +<p>Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup +of sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water +in the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of +juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples.</p> +<p>It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large +amount of water is added than from the juicy fruits.</p> +<p>I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the +fruit juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the +boiling, in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should +the sugar be hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the +sugar in the middle of the jelly-making process than at the +beginning or the end. Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, +so as to lose as little sugar as possible.</p> +<p>If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and +thus the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it +in a granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, +and stir occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it.</p> +<p>After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as +quickly as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent +boiling. A steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will +produce good results.</p> +<p>Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from +eight to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or +five minutes.</p> +<p>Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty +minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen +minutes.</p> +<p>The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking +thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. +It is the one sure, reliable test.</p> +<p>The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you +want a very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it +immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees.</p> +<p>If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour +the boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held +horizontally. If the sirup is done two drops will break +simultaneously from the side of the spoon.</p> +<p>Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw +a path through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and +the juice does not run together, the jellying point has been +reached.</p> +<p>When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from +the fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized +glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to +prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full.</p> +<p>Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at +one time. If new at the game make only four, because there is +danger of the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be +removed.</p> +<p>When the jellies are well set cover them with <i>hot</i>, not +merely melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs +that may fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the +clean tin or aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool +place after proper labeling.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN JELLY MAKING</b></p> +<p>1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and +contains a large amount of pectin.</p> +<p>2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so +forth.</p> +<p>3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash +berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added +if necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small +pieces; add half as much water as fruit.</p> +<p>4. Pour into dampened bag.</p> +<p>5. Drain through closely woven bag.</p> +<p>6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of +sugar to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of +pectin, the fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different +fruits. To make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold +cooked fruit juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake +gently. Allow to stand one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of +the juice forms a lump add three-fourths as much sugar as juice in +making jelly. If the precipitate—pectin—is not held +together in a lump or is less than three-fourths of the whole +volume of juice, add less sugar in proportion to juice. If less +than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to make the jelly, or can +the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and so forth.</p> +<p>7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook.</p> +<p>8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or +midway in the process.</p> +<p>9. Stir until sugar is dissolved.</p> +<p>10. Cook rapidly, but not hard.</p> +<p>11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a +clean spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from +it. If done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of +spoon. Some prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of +spoon. Better still, use thermometer.</p> +<p>12. Remove from fire and skim.</p> +<p>13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses.</p> +<p>14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a +little coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily.</p> +<p>15. Cover, label and store.</p> +<p>No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter +into consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the +amount of water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of +sugar to juice; the more sugar used, the less time needed.</p> +<br> +<p><b>JAMS AND BUTTERS</b></p> +<p>Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies.</p> +<p>1. Carefully wash berries and fruits.</p> +<p>2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not +convenient, use measuring cup.</p> +<p>3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces.</p> +<p>4. Add enough water to prevent sticking.</p> +<p>5. Stir to keep from burning.</p> +<p>6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken.</p> +<p>7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part +fruit. That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a +pound of sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup +of sugar.</p> +<p>8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently.</p> +<p>9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. +When a little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is +thick enough.</p> +<p>10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or +crystallized ginger can be added if desired.</p> +<p>11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of +the top.</p> +<p>12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and +store.</p> +<p>Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made +much as are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and +grapefruit marmalades.</p> +<p>Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and +raisins are often added to conserves.</p> +<p>Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least +three-fourths of the weight of the fruit.</p> +<p>If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or +other wax tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the +cold-pack method of canning. You may have containers with screw or +bail tops which you wish to use in this way. The following is one +recipe showing how to proceed.</p> +<p><b>Cherry Preserves</b>. Place one gallon of water in a kettle +and add ten pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen +minutes. Add twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until +product is boiling at a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in +shallow pans. Pack into glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, +not tight. Cap and tip if using enameled tin cans. If using a +hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize twenty minutes; if using a +water-seal outfit, a five-pound steam-pressure outfit or a +pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen minutes. Remove jars. +Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the joints. Wrap jars with +paper to prevent bleaching and store. When using pressure-cooker +outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during period of +sterilization.</p> +<p><b>Fruit Juices</b>. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and +delicious drink and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries +and other small fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a +cloth sack, heated for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs +freely, and allowed to drip.</p> +<p>Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the +sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of +the bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 +degrees, or until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the +cooker, and keep at this temperature one hour and a half to two +hours; or heat to 200 degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise +to the top of the water, and hold at this temperature for thirty +minutes. The hot water comes up to the neck of the bottle. Cork +without removing the cotton. If canned in jars close the jar +partly, and seal tight after cooking.</p> +<p>Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a +higher temperature injures the flavor.</p> +<p><b>Strawberry Preserves. 1.</b> Add thirty-five ounces of sugar +to one-half pint of water; bring to a boil and skim.</p> +<p>With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively +without floating and no sirup will be left over.</p> +<p>To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds +of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it +registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical +thermometer. If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is +very heavy—about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum.</p> +<p>Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of +the hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as +possible. Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not +fasten tightly.</p> +<p>Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if +possible. Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the +boiling water for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least +twenty-five minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the +conclusion of the operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap +to make sure that the seal is absolutely tight.</p> +<p><b>Recipe Number 2.</b> The following method is preferred by +some because it leaves more of the natural color in the +preserves:</p> +<p>To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add +twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour +juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook +to 222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack +and sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for +all other berries.</p> +<p>When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the +table, they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick +sirup which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a +cooling summer drink.</p> +<p><b>Strawberries—Sun Preserves.</b> Select firm ripe +berries; hull and rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a +single layer; sprinkle sugar over them. Pour over them a thick +sirup made of one quart of water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled +until very thick.</p> +<p>Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them +to stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly +glasses and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin +cans. Put the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or +seal if using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time +given below for the particular type of outfit used:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>MINUTES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Water seal, 214 degrees</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, +and test the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent +bleaching.</p> +<p>When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on +preserves, remember to keep the valve open during the +sterilizing.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING</b></p> +<p>Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a +fine flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter +apples are best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly +in the spring, add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple +juice.</p> +<p>Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple.</p> +<p>Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious +juices and shrubs for summer beverages.</p> +<p>The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 +minutes.</p> +<p>Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are +rubbed through a sieve.</p> +<p>Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good +combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and +strawberries.</p> +<p>Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, +pear and pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin.</p> +<p>One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious +jelly; currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 +to July 3.</p> +<p>Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days.</p> +<p>Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too +much sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are +satisfactory.</p> +<p>If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than +do green-as-grass gooseberries.</p> +<p>Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to +test for pectin before completing the process, to save time and +effort.</p> +<p>Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for +conserves.</p> +<p>An underripe, acid plum is best.</p> +<p>Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly.</p> +<p>Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the +fruit being used for preserving.</p> +<p>Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a +rain, for they will have absorbed so much water as to make it +difficult, without excessive boiling, to get the juice to +"jell."</p> +<p>Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. +It will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an +otherwise expensive jam "go a long way."</p> +<p>Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized +in many ways.</p> +<p>Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges.</p> +<p><b>Lemon Marmalade</b>. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are +sliced, put in kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 +hours; then boil 2 hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour +longer.</p> +<p>Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are +usually combined with grapefruit.</p> +<p>All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh +and not overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if +made from fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the +berries are still green.</p> +<p><b>CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING</b></p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>KIND OF FRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>CHARACTER OF FRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>HOW TO PREPARE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED FOR +COOKING</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT OF SUGAR NEEDED FOR +JELLYING</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>APPLES, SOUR</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash, discard any unsound portions, +cut into small pieces. Include seeds skin and core</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>APRICOTS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Not suitable for jelly making. +Excellent for jam.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Leave a few stones in for +flavor.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam use just enough water to +keep from burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of apricots for jam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BLACKBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>BLUEBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making; make a +sweet jelly</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CRANBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CHERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pit the cherries for jam</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, use just enough water to +keep from burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of cherries for jam</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CRAB APPLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Same as apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CURRANTS, RED</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Do not remove stems for jelly</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +currants</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>CURRANTS, BLACK</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Better for jam</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Remove stems</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Enough water to keep from +sticking</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of currants</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GRAPES, UNRIPE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash, do not stem; use stems</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +grapes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GOOSEBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>"Head and tail," using scissors</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +gooseberries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PEACHES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Peaches, apples and raisins make a +delicious conserve</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Just enough water to keep from +burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PINEAPPLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Prepare as for table use</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jams, enough water to keep from +burning</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PLUMS, GREENGAGE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Suitable for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Mash fruit and remove stems; cook +stones with fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 quart of water for each peck of +fruit</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>PLUMS, DAMSON</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Suitable for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wipe and pick over; prick several +times with large pin</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 quart of water for every peck of +plums</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>QUINCES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making, if not +too ripe. If so, add crab apple</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cut out the blossom end. Mash and +cut in quarters</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>One-half as much water as +quinces</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RASPBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash them thoroughly, but do not let +them soak in the water</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of water to 5 quarts of +berries</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RHUBARB</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making. Better for jam.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash and cut into small pieces</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, half as much water as +fruit.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of juice</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>STRAWBERRIES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pectin must be added for jelly +making.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Wash and remove hulls.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For jam, just enough water to keep +from burning.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupful +of pulp.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>CITRUS FRUITS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>ORANGES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making and +marmalade</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For orange marmalade weigh oranges +slice cross- wise with sharp knife as thin as possible; remove +seed.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cook in water to cover.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Three-quarters their weight in +sugar.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>LEMONS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Excellent for jelly making and to +supply pectin to other fruits</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>For marmalade 9 oranges and 6 lemons +are a good combination</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>8 pounds of sugar</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>GRAPEFRUIT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Best for marmalades</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Grapefruit is sliced very thin, seed +removed.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Three-quarters their weight in +sugar.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>WILD FRUITS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, BARBERRIES, +GRAPES, BEACH PLUMS.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All excellent for jelly making.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Prepare as other fruits.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Just enough water to keep from +burning.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful of +juice.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VII' id="CHAPTER_VII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> +<h3>MEAT</h3> +<br> +<p>Canned meat adds variety to the diet in the winter-time and +makes a pleasant change from the cured and smoked meats. You put +meat into jars in the raw state and extend the sterilizing period +or you can cook the meat partially or completely and then sterilize +for a shorter period of time. Of course a reliable method of +canning meat must be used, such as the cold-pack process, where the +sterilizing is done in the tin or jar in either boiling water or +steam under pressure. We usually recommend the partial cooking, +roasting or boiling of the meat before canning especially for +beginners. If you are a beginner in the business of cold-pack +canning then by all means cook the meat before putting it in cans. +If you have canned peas, beans and corn successfully for years then +you are ready for all kinds of raw meat canning.</p> +<p>To save criticism of the cold-pack method of canning meat and to +guard against any danger from eating poorly prepared and improperly +sterilized meat we do not urge beginners to experiment with meat, +although the meat can be safely canned by any one whether new at +the canning game or a veteran in it if directions are carefully +followed. But it is the big "If" that we have to watch.</p> +<p>Many farmers and farmerettes are canning meats of all kinds all +over the country and there is never a can lost. We need more meat +canning done at home and you can do it if you will practice +cleanliness in all your work and follow directions.</p> +<p>The fear of getting botulinus bacteria from eating canned meat +is just a "bug-a-boo." It should be clearly understood that +botulism is one of the very rare maladies. The chances for getting +it by eating canned goods, say the experts, is rather less than the +chances from dying of lockjaw every time you scratch your finger. +To regard every can as a source of botulism is worse than regarding +every dog as a source of hydrophobia. Moreover, for the very timid, +there is the comforting certainty that the exceedingly slight +danger is completely eliminated by re-cooking the canned food for a +short time before eating it.</p> +<p>There are always a few cases of illness traceable to bad food, +not only to canned food but to spoiled meats, fish, bad milk, +oysters and a number of things. There are also cases of injury and +death by street accidents, but we do not for that reason stop using +the streets. If you put good meat into the can and do your canning +right then you will have good results. Never put into a can meat +that is about ready to spoil, thinking thereby to "save it."</p> +<p>If you want to be absolutely sure, even if the jar of meat seems +perfectly fresh when it is opened, you can re-cook the meat, thus +insuring yourself against any possibility of botulinus poisoning. +So you see, there is nothing at all alarming about that frightful +sounding word "botulinus." Using fresh products, doing the canning +properly and reheating before serving eliminates all danger.</p> +<p>For canning meat, tin cans are in most respects superior to +glass, as they eliminate all danger of breakage, preserve the meat +just as well as glass, and by excluding the light prevent any +change of color. If you use glass jars be sure to get the best +brand of jar rubbers on the market. This is very important.</p> +<p>If, as I have said, you are a beginner—cook the meat first +by frying, roasting, broiling, baking or stewing—just as you +would prepare it for immediate use. The meat is usually seasoned +according to taste and is cooked until thoroughly heated through, +before putting in the cans. Do not cook until tender as that will +be too long with the additional sterilizing. If too tender it will +fall apart and be unappetizing although perfectly good. See that +nothing is wasted in the canning. If you are canning a young steer +or a calf you would go about it as follows:</p> +<p>Select the meat that you would ordinarily want. Slice the meat +wanted for steak. What is not suited for either of these can be +used for stews, or be put through the meat grinder and made into +sausage meat, formed into little cakes, fried and canned. What meat +is left clinging to all bones will be utilized when the bones are +boiled for soup stock. The sinews, the head and the feet, after +being cleaned may be used for soup stock also.</p> +<p>The liver should be soaked in water, the coarse veins cut out +and the liver skinned and prepared any way that is desired before +canning it or it may be made into liver sausage. The heart can be +used for goulash. The kidneys should be soaked in salt water, split +open and the little sack removed; then they can be either stewed or +fried and then canned. The sweetbreads may be prepared in various +ways and then canned.</p> +<p>The brain is soaked in water to remove the blood, and the +membrane enclosing it is removed. It can be fried or prepared in +any favorite way and then canned. The ox tail is used for soup. The +tongue is soaked in water, scrubbed, cleaned, salted, boiled, +skinned and packed in cans with some soup stock added.</p> +<p>If you do not care to use the head for soup stock and if it +comes from a young animal, split it open and soak in cold water. +Use a brush and scrub thoroughly. Remove the eyes and mucous +membrane of the nostrils and then boil it. After it is boiled, +remove all meat and make a mock turtle stew or ragout. Prepare the +tripe as for table use and then can.</p> +<p>After the soup stock is made and the bones are cracked for a +second cooking, the bones need not be thrown away. You can dry +them, run them through a bone crusher and either feed them to the +chickens or use them for fertilizer. In this way not a particle of +the dressed animal is wasted.</p> +<p>Here are a few ways to utilize the cuts that are really +"left-overs."</p> +<br> +<p><b>GOULASH</b></p> +<ul> +<li>2 Pounds of meat scraps which can consist of beef, veal or +pork.</li> +<li>2 Ounces of any fat.</li> +<li>2 Onions chopped fine.</li> +<li>1 Stalk celery, cut in small pieces.</li> +<li>2 Carrots.</li> +<li>2 Cups tomatoes either canned or fresh.</li> +<li>1 Bay leaf.</li> +<li>6 Whole cloves.</li> +<li>6 Peppercorns.</li> +<li>1 Blade mace or a little thyme or both.</li> +<li>A little flour.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoonful chopped parsley.</li> +<li>Salt and paprika to taste.</li> +</ul> +<p>Cut the meat into one inch squares and roll in flour. Melt the +fat in the frying pan, add the vegetables (onions, celery, carrots) +and brown lightly: add the meat and brown. Stir with a spoon or +fork to prevent burning. When browned empty into a pan.</p> +<p>Put the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, mace and thyme into a +cheesecloth bag and add to the meat, add tomatoes. Cover with soup +stock or water and simmer 45 minutes if it is going to be canned. +If for immediate use, 2 hours will be necessary to thoroughly cook +it.</p> +<p>Remove the spices, season with salt, paprika and the chopped +parsley. You can add Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce if desired. +Use only small quantities as these sauces are very strong in their +distinctive flavor. Put hot mixture into cans and sterilize.</p> +<p>If the different spices are not at hand a good goulash can be +made by using the meat, fat, onions, tomatoes, flour, salt and +pepper and omitting the rest of the recipe.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIVER SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>Beef, veal, or hog liver. Remove the membrane and cut away the +large blood vessels. Soak in water 1 to 2 hours to draw out blood. +Boil until done. When cooled put through a food chopper or grate +finely. Take half as much boiled fat pork as liver. Divide this fat +into two portions; chop one portion into one-quarter inch cubes; +pass the other portion through the food chopper; mix all together +thoroughly; add salt, ground cloves, pepper, and a little grated +onion to taste. A little thyme and marjoram may be added to suit +taste. (For a liver weighing 1½ pounds add ¾ pounds +fat pork, 3 to 4 teaspoonfuls salt, ½ teaspoonful cloves, +½ teaspoonful pepper, 1 small onion, ¼ teaspoonful +thyme, and pinch of marjoram.) This mixture is stuffed into large +casings. (If no casings are available, make casings of clean white +muslin.) Cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 +minutes. Pack into cans, fill in with the water in which the +sausages were boiled. Sterilize.</p> +<p>This liver sausage may also be made from the raw liver and raw +pork, but in that case the sterilizing is for a longer period, as +the time-table indicates. This recipe is recommended by the United +States Department of Agriculture.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HEAD CHEESE</b></p> +<p>Cut a hog's head into four pieces. Remove the brains, ears, +skin, snout and eyes. Cut off the fattest parts for lard. Put the +lean and bony parts to soak over night in cold water in order to +extract the blood and dirt. When the head is cleaned put it over +the fire to boil, using water enough to cover it. Boil until the +meat separates readily from the bones. Then remove it from the fire +and pick out all the bones. Drain off the liquor, saving a part of +it for future use. Chop the meat up finely with a chopping knife. +Return it to the kettle and pour on enough of the liquor to cover +the meat. Let it boil slowly for fifteen minutes to a half-hour. +Season to taste with salt and pepper just before removing it from +the fire. Bay leaves, a little ground cloves and allspice may be +added and boiled a short time in the soup. Pack while hot in cans +to within ½ inch of top. Sterilize. This head cheese is +always served cold.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CORNED BEEF</b></p> +<p>After beef has been properly corned for three weeks, remove the +meat from the brine. Soak for two hours in clear water, changing +water once. Place in a wire basket and boil slowly for half an +hour. Remove from the boiling water, plunge into cold water, and +remove gristle, bone and excessive fat. Cut into small pieces and +pack closely into cans. Add no salt and proceed as in other +canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED PORK</b></p> +<p>After the animal has been killed, cool quickly and keep the pork +cool for at least 24 hours. Can only lean portions, using the fat +to make lard. Place meat in a wire basket or cheesecloth and boil +30 minutes, or roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Cut into small +sections and pack closely into cans. Add salt and proceed with +remainder of process.</p> +<p>Other pieces of beef and pork: Hamburg steak, sausage, venison, +squirrel, raccoon, opossum, lamb, are canned as follows:</p> +<p>After cleaning, season and fry, roast, stew, or bake in oven as +though preparing for serving directly on the table. Cook until meat +is about three fourths done. Pack while hot into sanitary tin cans +or glass jars. Pour over the meat the hot liquids, gravies, +dressings, etc., or hot water. Add salt and proceed as in any other +cold-pack canning.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO CAN POULTRY AND GAME WITH THE BONES REMOVED</b></p> +<p>Kill bird and draw immediately; wash carefully and cool; then +cut into convenient sections. Boil until the meat can be removed +from the bones; remove from the boiling liquid and take out all +bones; pack closely into glass jars or enameled cans; fill jars +with the hot liquid after it has been concentrated one half; add 1 +level teaspoonful salt to every quart of meat for seasoning; put +rubbers and top of jars in place but not tight. If using enameled +cans completely seal. Sterilize the length of time given in the +<a href='#canning_meat'>time-table on page 108</a> of this book. +After the sterilizing remove the jars; tighten the covers if glass +was used; invert to cool and test joints. Wrap with paper to +prevent bleaching.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FRIED SPRING CHICKEN</b></p> +<p>After cleaning and preparing the chickens, season and fry as +though for serving directly on the table. Cook until the meat is +about three-fourths done. If a whole spring chicken, break the neck +and both legs and fold around body of chicken. Roll up tight, tie a +string around the chicken and drop this hot, partially fried +product into sanitary tin cans or glass jars. A quart tin can (No. +3) will hold two to four small chickens. Pour liquid from the +griddle or frying pan into the can over the chicken. Proceed, as in +any other canning, with the sealing, sterilizing and removing of +the jars. Chicken fries canned in the late fall preserve the meat +at the most delicious stage and furthermore we avoid the expense of +feeding the chickens throughout the winter.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO CAN COCKERELS</b></p> +<p>When cockerels reach the point in their growth where it is no +longer profitable to feed them, and when they are wanted for home +use during the winter months they should be canned. This method of +handling the cockerel not only saves money by cutting down the feed +bill, but it places in the pantry or cellar the means of a +delicious chicken dinner at a time of the year when the price of +poultry is high.</p> +<p>The bird should not be fed for at least twenty-four hours before +killing. It should be killed by the approved method and picked dry. +When the feathers have been removed and the pin feathers drawn the +bird should be cooled rapidly. This rapid cooling after killing is +essential to a good flavor in canned meat. As soon as the bird has +been properly cooled it should be singed and washed carefully with +a brush.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CUTTING UP AND DRAWING CHICKENS</b></p> +<p>Mr. George Farrell, a most expert canner, tells us how to go +about this job of canning chicken.</p> +<p>In preparing the bird for canning, care should be taken in +drawing it so that the contents of the digestive tract do not come +in contact with the meat.</p> +<p>1. Remove the tops of the wings, cutting at the first joint.</p> +<p>2. Remove the wings.</p> +<p>3. Remove the foot, cutting at the knee joint.</p> +<p>4. Remove the leg, cutting at the hip or saddle joint.</p> +<p>5. Cut the removed portion of the leg into two parts at the +joint.</p> +<p>6. Place the bird so the back of the head is toward the +operator, cut through the neck bone with a sharp knife but do not +cut the windpipe or gullet.</p> +<p>7. With the index finger separate the gullet and windpipe from +the skin of the neck.</p> +<p>8. Cut through the skin of the neck.</p> +<p>9. With a pointed knife cut through the skin from the upper part +of the neck, thus separated, to the wing.</p> +<p>10. Leave the head attached to the gullet and windpipe and +loosen these from the neck down as far as the crop.</p> +<p>11. With a sharp pointed knife cut around the shoulder blade, +pull it out of position and break it.</p> +<p>12. Find the white spots on the ribs and cut through the ribs on +these white spots.</p> +<p>13. Cut back to the vent; cut around it, and loosen.</p> +<p>14. Begin at the crop and remove the digestive tract from the +bird, pulling it back toward the vent.</p> +<p>15. Remove the lungs and kidneys with the point of a knife.</p> +<p>16. Cut off the neck close to the body.</p> +<p>17. Cut through the backbone at the joint or just above the +diaphragm.</p> +<p>18. Remove the oil sack.</p> +<p>19. Separate the breast from the backbone by cutting through on +the white spots.</p> +<p>20. Cut the fillet from each side of the breastbone.</p> +<p>21. Cut in sharp at the point of the breastbone, turning the +knife and cutting away the wishbone with the meat. Bend in the +bones of the breastbone.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING CHICKEN</b></p> +<p>Use a one quart jar. Caution: Do not pack the giblets with the +meat.</p> +<p>1. Have the jar hot.</p> +<p>2. Pack the saddle with a thigh inside.</p> +<p>3. Pack the breastbone with a thigh inside.</p> +<p>4. Pack the backbone and ribs with a leg inside.</p> +<p>5. Pack the legs large end downward, alongside the +breastbone.</p> +<p>6. Pack the wings.</p> +<p>7. Pack the wishbone.</p> +<p>8. Pack the fillets.</p> +<p>9. Pack the neck-bone.</p> +<p>10. Pour on boiling water to within one inch of the top; add a +level teaspoonful of salt; place the rubber and cap in position, +partially seal, and sterilize for the length of time given below +for the particular type of outfit used:</p> +Water bath, home made or commercial (pint or quart jars) 1 hour<br> +Water seal, 214° 3 hours<br> +5 pounds steam-pressure 2 hours<br> +10 to 15 pounds steam-pressure 1 hour<br> +<p>Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. +Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PIGEONS</b></p> +<p><i>Young</i> pigeons. Dress pigeons, wash well, and roast for 30 +minutes basting frequently. Some pieces of fat bacon put over the +breasts will prevent them getting too dry.</p> +<p><i>Old</i> pigeons. Dress, wash, and fry pigeons.</p> +<p>Brown some onions in the fat with the pigeons, using a pound of +onions to a dozen birds. Cover with hot water after pigeons and +onions are a golden brown; simmer until the meat is tender and can +be removed from the bones. Add from time to time boiling water, if +necessary, in order to keep the birds covered. When tender, take +meat from bones. Return the meat to the liquor, salt to taste and +pack while boiling into cans or jars, fill with liquor to within +one-half inch of top.</p> +<p>All small game birds may be canned like pigeons. Blackbirds may +be treated like pigeons. They make an excellent stew.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PLAIN CANNING OF TENDER COTTON-TAILS OR TWICE-SKINNED +JACK-RABBITS</b></p> +<p>1. Blanch in boiling water until the meat is white.</p> +<p>2. Cold dip.</p> +<p>3. Pack tightly in sterilized jars.</p> +<p>4. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt to quart.</p> +<p>5. Adjust rubber and lid.</p> +<p>6. Sterilize in hot water bath for three hours.</p> +<p>7. Remove from bath and complete the seal.</p> +<p>Rabbit meat thus canned, may be served in various appetizing +ways.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RABBIT SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>For rabbit sausage and mince-meat only the backs and legs of the +carcass are used, discarding the sinews.</p> +<p>Grind together equal parts of rabbit and fat pork (or at least +¼ fat pork). The pork may be salt pork if all salt is +omitted from the mixture.</p> +<p>To every ten pounds of the above add 6 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 +teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sage. Mix +thoroughly. Shape in flat cakes and fry till nicely browned. Pack +tightly in jars, pour over the fat in which the sausage was fried, +and sterilize.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RABBIT MINCE-MEAT</b></p> +<p>Rabbit mince-meat is used a great deal on the plains and large +quantities of it are canned. The mince-meat may be made by simply +substituting the rabbit meat for beef in your favorite recipe. The +following is an inexpensive recipe:</p> +<ul> +<li>1 Cup of rabbit meat which has been parboiled in salted water +and drained, then chopped finely.</li> +<li>1 Cup chopped apple.</li> +<li>½ Cup finely chopped suet.</li> +<li>½ Cup seeded raisins.</li> +<li>½ Cup currants.</li> +<li>1 Cup molasses or syrup.</li> +<li>2 Tablespoonfuls sugar.</li> +<li>1 Tablespoon cider, lemon juice, fruit juice or vinegar.</li> +<li>¼ Cup chopped watermelon pickles or green tomato +pickles.</li> +<li>1 Teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg.</li> +<li>1 Teaspoon of salt.</li> +<li>½ Teaspoon cloves, mace or other spice.</li> +</ul> +<p>Mix together all ingredients except the meat, add the meat broth +and simmer for about 1 hour. Add the meat. Pour into jars, and +sterilize. Remove and seal.</p> +<br> +<p>STEPS IN CANNING MEAT AND GAME</p> +<p>For all meat, poultry or game canning the following general +instructions should be kept in mind.</p> +<p>1. Sterilize the jars, caps and rubbers.</p> +<p>2. Grade the meat for size.</p> +<p>3. Cut up into convenient portions for cooking or canning.</p> +<p>4. Sauté, fry or bake, broil or stew as desired. This +step can be omitted if you are an experienced canner.</p> +<p>5. Pack in sterilized, hot jars or tin cans.</p> +<p>6. Add 1 level teaspoonful salt per quart of meat for seasoning +if not already seasoned.</p> +<p>7. If glass jars put on rubber and seal, not too tight. Seal tin +cans.</p> +<p>8. Process in boiling water or steam under pressure.</p> +<p>9. Remove, completely seal the jar.</p> +<p>10. Invert to cool and test the joint.</p> +<p>11. Label and store.</p> +<br> +<p>If you can in tin use the enamel or lacquered cans. A slight +amount of water in the bottom of the jars of prepared meat will +insure quicker sterilization of the air remaining in the jar. Where +meat has been stewed the liquor can be poured into the jar for +filling. If you use a steam-pressure cooker outfit of course the +time of cooking will be much shorter than if you use a wash-boiler +or some other homemade outfit. If you cook in boiling water we call +that the water-bath method.</p> +<p>The following data will be of interest to those who contemplate +canning meat.</p> +<p>Hog on foot—weight 500.</p> +<p>Liver, heart and a part of the ribs were eaten at the time of +butchering, therefore, not canned. The remainder of the ribs canned +six No. 3 cans:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ham</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Shoulder</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Roast</td> +<td align='left'>18, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sausage</td> +<td align='left'>26, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hash</td> +<td align='left'>4, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gravy (which is also called stock)</td> +<td align='left'>5, No. 3 cans</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The sausage weighed 52 lbs. before it was canned, making 2 lbs. +to the can.</p> +<p>There were 200 lbs. of fat for lard. After it was rendered there +were 176 lbs. of lard and 20 lbs. of cracklings.</p> +<a name='canning_meat' id="canning_meat"></a> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>TIME TO STERILIZE PRODUCTS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING WATER-SEAL OUTFIT AT +214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING STEAM PRESSURE 5 +POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>IF USING PRESSURE COOKER 15 +POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>PARTIALLY COOKED MEAT OF +ALL KINDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Roast beef<br> +Corned beef<br> +Sweetbreads<br> +Tongue<br> +Brains<br> +Headcheese<br> +Spareribs<br> +Kidneys<br> +Sausages and<br> +other meats<br> +Rabbits<br> +Pigeon<br> +Chicken<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='5'>UNCOOKED OR RAW MEAT</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Beef<br> +Pork<br> +Veal and all<br> +other meats<br> +Poultry and game<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>All meat stocks<br> +with or without<br> +vegetables and<br> +cereals<br></td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 hr.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>40 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>NOTE.—This time-table is for No. 2 and No. 3 tin cans or +pint and quart glass jars. If larger cans or jars are used more +time must be allowed for the sterilizing. If canning in tin, +scratch on the can at the time of sealing the initial of the +contents. For instance—S.R. means spareribs; G. means +goulash; R.B. means roast beef. You can make out your list and mark +accordingly.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_VIII' id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> +<h3>FISH</h3> +<br> +<p>People in some sections of the country are interested in canning +mountain trout and others live where there is an abundant supply of +either fresh-water fish or salt-water fish. Heretofore we have been +wasteful and lax about the fish supply. But as we have learned to +can vegetables and meats so we are going to learn to can fish. Fish +is really canned the same in every step after preparation as peas +and corn are canned.</p> +<p>In order to have a good product, fish must be fresh when canned. +No time should be lost in handling the fish after being caught. +Putrefaction starts rapidly, and the fish must be handled promptly. +The sooner it is canned after being taken from lake, stream or +ocean, the better. Never attempt to can any fish that is stale.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PREPARATION OF FISH FOR CANNING</b></p> +<p>As soon as fish are caught it is advisable to kill them with a +knife and allow the blood to run out. Scale fish. This is easily +done if the fish is dipped in boiling water. For canning, most +varieties of fish need not be skinned. If the fish is very large +and coarse, the large back fin may be cut out and the backbone +removed, but with most varieties this is unnecessary. Cut off the +head and tail, being careful to leave no more meat than necessary +on the parts removed. Remove the entrails and the dark membrane +that in some fish (e.g., mullets) covers the abdominal cavity. +Thoroughly clean the inside. The head may be cleaned and used for +fish chowder.</p> +<p>If you wish to be sure that all blood is drawn out before +canning, place the fish in a brine made of one ounce of salt to one +quart of water. Allow the fish to soak from 10 minutes to 1 hour +according to the thickness of the fish. Never use this brine but +once. If the meat of the fish is very soft or loose, it may be +hardened by soaking in a brine (strong enough to float an Irish +potato) for from 15 minutes to an hour, depending on the thickness +of the pieces and the softness of the flesh.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING THE FISH</b></p> +<p>1. Remove the fish from the brine where it has been placed in +order to draw out all the blood and to harden the texture of the +fish.</p> +<p>2. Drain well.</p> +<p>3. Cut into can lengths.</p> +<p>4. Place fish in a piece of cheesecloth or in a wire basket and +blanch in <i>boiling water</i> from three to five minutes. Three +minutes for the soft flesh fish, such as suckers, crappies, +whitefish. Fish with a firmer flesh, as pike, muskalonge and +sunfish require 5 minutes blanching. The blanching removes the +strong fish flavor and cleans the outside of the fish.</p> +<p>5. Cold-dip the fish by plunging into cold water immediately. +This makes the flesh firm.</p> +<p>6. Pack in hot jars or cans to within ½ inch from top. +Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Put on a good rubber and +partially seal the jar, completely seal tin cans.</p> +<p>7. Place jars or cans in canner and process in <i>boiling</i> +water for three hours. Three hours sterilization will insure the +keeping of all varieties of fish, providing fresh products are used +and the blanching and other work is carefully done. If canning with +a steam-pressure canner or a pressure cooker sterilize for one hour +and a half under 10 to 15 lbs. pressure.</p> +<p>8. At the end of the sterilizing period cool the jars quickly +after sealing completely. The tin cans may be cooled by immersing +them in cold water.</p> +<p>9. Store for future use.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SOFTENING OF BONES IN FISH</b></p> +<p>This can be done satisfactorily under pressure. The bones of +fish are composed of large quantities of harmless lime, bound by a +matrix of collagen, which is insoluble under ordinary conditions. +When subjected to a high temperature under pressure this collagen +is converted into gelatin and dissolved, leaving the bones soft and +friable and even edible. Bony fish, such as herring and shad, which +are too small to use otherwise are greatly improved when subjected +to steam under pressure.</p> +<p>The bones in herring are softened in 37 minutes at a temperature +of 240 degrees; shad in 1 hour; flounder 1 hour. Other fish are +fully cooked and the bones softened in times approximately +proportionate to the size of the bones.</p> +<p>The following table was made after many experiments and gives +the time required to soften the bones in many common species of +fish.</p> +<p>The term "softening" means the point in cooking when the small +bones, ribs, etc., are soft, but when the large vertebrae are not +yet sufficiently soft to be consumed along with the meat. In some +of the larger fishes where the large bones could scarcely be eaten, +even if they were softened, it would appear to be a waste of time +and fuel to carry them to a point of complete cooking, and in such +cases it ought to be sufficient to soften the small bones and +sterilize the contents of the can. For such a purpose, the +"softening" rather than the "soft" point, may be used.</p> +<p>The time periods are measured from the point when the given +pressure and temperature are reached (at the top of the cooker) to +the time when the heat is shut off. The heating-up and cooling-off +period of time are therefore not included. The fish were salted, +but no water was added.</p> +<p>Samples of fish canned during the course of these experiments +were kept six weeks at room temperature (about 68° F.) and were +then incubated at 98° F. for 48 hrs. All were sterile.</p> +<b>TIME REQUIRED TO SOFTEN THE BONES OF VARIOUS SPECIES OF FISH IN +QUART JARS OR NO. 3 TIN CANS, 10 LBS. PRESSURE, 240° F.</b> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'> </td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>WEIGHT<br> +(LBS.)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>SOFTENING<br> +(MINUTES)</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>SOFT<br> +(MINUTES)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BLACK BASS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-6<br> +¾ to 1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100<br> +100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120<br> +110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BLUEFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-9<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100<br> +90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>BUTTERFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>CATFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2<br> +¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>CERO</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10-13</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>COD</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-16<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>FLOUNDER</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1-1¾<br> +½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HADDOCK</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3-5<br> +1-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HALIBUT</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50-90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>HICKORY SHAD</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>KINGFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>LEMON SOLE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2½-3½<br> +¾-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>MACKEREL</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¾-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>MACKEREL, SPANISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1½-2½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>PERCH, WHITE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>PERCH, YELLOW</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>¼-¾</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>POLLACK</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-7½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SALMON</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>13-19</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SEA BASS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SQUETEAGUE</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2½-4<br> +¾-2</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SMELTS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large, per lb.<br> +Small, per lb.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5-7<br> +15-20</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60<br> +50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>70<br> +60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SNAPPER, RED</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Large<br> +Small</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10-15<br> +5-6</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>110<br> +90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>120<br> +100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>SUCKER</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1½</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>80</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>TILEFISH</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>6-12</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>90</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left' colspan='4'>WHITING</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Average</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>½-1</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>50</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>60</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<p><b>FRIED FISH</b></p> +<p>1. Clean the fish and remove entrails. Split along the back and +remove backbone.</p> +<p>2. Place in brine strong enough to float an Irish potato. Allow +fish to remain in this brine from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to +the thickness of the flesh. This draws out the blood and hardens +the meat.</p> +<p>3. Draw, wipe dry.</p> +<p>4. Cut in pieces that can go through jar or can openings.</p> +<p>5. Roll in cornmeal or other flour, dip into beaten egg and roll +in flour again.</p> +<p>6. Then put into frying basket and fry in deep fat until nicely +browned, or it can be sautéd in bacon or other fat until +well browned.</p> +<p>7. Drain well by placing pieces on coarse paper to absorb +excessive fat.</p> +<p>8. Pack into hot jars or enameled tin cans.</p> +<p>9. Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Add no liquid.</p> +<p>10. Partially seal glass jars. Completely seal tin cans.</p> +<p>11. Process 3 hours in hot water bath outfit. Process 1½ +hours in steam pressure (10 to 15 lbs. pressure).</p> +<p>12. Remove from canner. Seal glass jars. Cool quickly as +possible.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BAKED FISH</b></p> +<p>Prepare and bake fish same as for table use until half done. +Pack in hot jars, add salt and sterilize three hours in +hot-water-bath outfit or 1½ hours in steam pressure or +pressure cooker, 10 to 15 lbs. pressure.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MISCELLANEOUS FISH</b></p> +<p>Rub the fish inside and out with a mixture made as follows: to +50 pounds fish, mix 2½ pounds salt, 2½ pounds brown +sugar and 2½ ounces saltpeter. Let the fish stand in a cool +place for 48 to 60 hours with the mixture on, then wash and drain. +Fill into glass jars or enamel lined tin cans and add the following +sauce until cans are nearly filled: ¼ pound whole black +pepper, 1½ pounds salt, 1 pound of onions chopped fine, +½ ounce bay leaves, ¼ pound whole cloves, 2 quarts +cider vinegar and 25 quarts of water. Soak the pepper, cloves and +bay leaves for 48 hours in the vinegar. Put the water, salt and +onions in a kettle. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes, then add +the vinegar and spices. Let boil for one minute. Strain and it is +ready for use.</p> +<p>Sterilize for 3 hours in hot-water-bath outfit.</p> +<p>Sterilize for 1½ hours in steam pressure or pressure +cooker (10 to 15 lbs. pressure).</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED FISH IN OIL</b></p> +<p>Rub fish with salt, brown sugar and saltpeter as above directed. +Wash and dry thoroughly in the sun. Spread on wire screens and dip +in oil heated to a temperature of 300 degrees. Use a strap handle +plunge thermometer to determine heat of oil. Cottonseed oil may be +used for this purpose, although olive oil is best. As soon as the +fish are cool enough to handle, pack tightly in cans, filling up +with the hot oil.</p> +<p>Sterilize 3 hours in hot-water-bath-outfit; 1½ hours in +steam pressure or pressure cooker (10 to 15 lbs.).</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNED FISH IN TOMATO SAUCE</b></p> +<p>Handle same as specified under "Another Formula for +Miscellaneous Fish," except pour in the following sauce instead of +pepper, cloves, onions, etc.: Ten gallons of tomato pulp (mashed +tomatoes and juice with cores, seeds and skins removed); 1 gallon +cider vinegar, 1 pint Worcestershire sauce; 2½ pounds red +sweet peppers; 2½ pounds sugar, 2 cups salt, 2 pounds onions +(chopped fine); 1 pound West India peppers and 1 ounce Saigon +cinnamon. The fish are processed same as "Fish in Oil." Enamel +lined cans or glass jars must be used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FISH CHOWDER</b></p> +<p>The cleaned heads of any fish, the backbones cut out of large +fish with what meat adheres to them and all other fish scraps may +be used for fish chowder. Put all these parts in cold water (to +cover) and cook until all the meat can be easily removed from the +bones. Pick all the meat from the bones, strain the fish liquor and +return it with the picked fish meat to the kettle. Add the +following ingredients: To every two pounds of fish picked from +bones and the liquor in which fish was cooked add 6 onions, diced +or sliced thin; 6 potatoes, diced or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls +fat; 1 teaspoonful paprika; 2 teaspoonfuls salt or salt to +taste.</p> +<p>Cook vegetables, fat and seasonings until vegetables are half +done. Pack hot in cans and sterilize same as all other fish. When +the chowder is opened, heat and add milk according to taste.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FISH ROE</b></p> +<p>For canning be sure to use roe of freshly caught fish and only +such roe as is known to be good to eat. The roe of some fishes, +such as the garfish, is not eaten.</p> +<p>Clean the roe by removing the shreds and strings adhering to it +and wash well in cold water, being careful not to break the roe. +Soak for 2 hours in a brine made of 6 quarts of water and 6 ounces +of salt. Drain and pack in hot glass jars or enameled tin cans. Can +for the same length of time as other fish.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OYSTERS</b></p> +<p>Be sure all oysters that are to be canned are absolutely fresh, +have not "soured" and contain no spoiled oysters. Oysters are +opened by hand. All oysters should be rejected that have partly +open shells, as this is a sign that the oyster is dead and +consequently not fit to eat.</p> +<p>Rinse the oysters to prevent any pieces of shell or grit from +getting into the cans. Blanch 5 minutes. Cold-dip. If the canned +oysters are to be sold it is required by law to mark on each can +the net weight of solids or meat exclusive of liquids.</p> +<p>There have been a number of standard grades of oysters +recognized on the Baltimore market. They are given as follows: +"Standard Oysters" (four kinds).</p> +<p>No. 1 cans, containing respectively 1½, 3, 4 and 5 ounces +of meat, after being processed in the cans.</p> +<p>No. 2 cans, containing respectively 3, 6, 8 and 10 ounces of +meat.</p> +<p>"Select" and "Extra Select" Oysters contain respectively 6 +ounces and 12 ounces for No. 1 and No. 2 cans. The above are the +net weights of meats only that have been drained over a strainer +with a wire bottom of ½ inch mesh. These are the only grades +that have so far been recognized by the trade. An even balance +scale, with one platform for graduated weights and another for +articles to be weighed, is used to weigh oysters or clams. It is +suggested that those who are going to can clams or oysters find out +from their prospective customers just what requirements are as to +weights and then make their pack meet the occasion. Under no +circumstances is it advisable to make any misstatements or misbrand +in any respect.</p> +<p>After oysters have been packed in the can, fill with boiling +brine made of 5 quarts of water to ¼ lb. salt to within +½ inch from top of can. Sterilize as other fish.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLAMS</b></p> +<p>If clams are received in a muddy condition, it is advisable, +though not necessary to wash them before opening. After opening, +discard broken or discolored clams. Do not can any clams unless +absolutely fresh. Blanch. Cold-dip. Weigh out the amount of solid +meat, after draining, that is to go into each can. Weigh and label +just as oysters are weighed and labeled.</p> +<p>Fill can to within ½ inch from the top with boiling brine +made of 5 gallons of water and 1 pound of salt. Sterilize.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLAM BROTH AND CHOWDER</b></p> +<p>Place the clams, after being opened, in a kettle with enough +cold water to cover. Add a few stalks of celery. Boil for 10 +minutes. Season with salt, and pepper to taste and add 1 tablespoon +butter to every 50 or 60 large clams. Can. Clam chowder can be made +according to any recipe and then canned.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRIMPS</b></p> +<p>Shrimps when first caught are a grayish white color. They are +very delicate and spoil quickly if allowed to stand for any length +of time in a warm place. There are two general methods of canning +shrimp—the "dry pack" and "wet pack." Nearly all the trade +now calls for "wet pack" because the other always has a rather +offensive odor and the meat is never so fresh and sweet of flavor +as the "wet pack." Canned shrimp is very pleasing to the taste and +is preferred by many to lobster for salads and stews.</p> +<p><b>Wet Pack.</b> Medium sizes are preferable as very large +shrimps are apt to be too tough and too dry. Put the shrimps into a +wire scalding basket and lower into a boiling hot salt water +solution made by mixing one pound of salt to each gallon of water. +Allow the shrimps to remain in this bath for about five minutes, +then remove and drain thoroughly.</p> +<p>Peel and remove viscera (entrails). The boiling and the salt +will harden the meat and make the peeling comparatively easy. Pack +into enameled tin cans or glass jars. Nos. 1 and 1½ cans are +used almost exclusively. These sizes should contain 4½ oz +and 9 ounces of meat respectively. It is unsafe to put in more meat +than above directed, for it might cake and become solid when +processed.</p> +<p>Add a very mild brine to within ½ inch from top of can. +For the brine use 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart of boiling water. +Sterilize.</p> +<p><b>Dry Pack.</b> Handle same as above, except do not pour into +the cans any brine. The fish is packed in the cans and processed as +follows without the addition of any liquor.</p> +<p><b>Drying of Shrimps.</b> After shrimps are boiled and peeled +they may be dried. Spread on a drier of any kind and dry at a +temperature of from 110°F. to 150°F. When thoroughly dry +pack in dry clean glass jars or in parchment-paper lined boxes.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SALMON</b></p> +<p>Scale fish, clean and wipe dry. Do not wash. If the fish are +large cut in lengths to fill the cans and in sizes to pass through +can openings easily. Salmon is usually packed in No. 1 cans or in +flat cans. Fill cans with fish after it has been blanched 5 minutes +and cold dipped. Sterilize as other fish.</p> +<p>Many salmon packers lacquer the outside of their cans to prevent +rusting. This is a very advisable point. The test for unsound +salmon is the nose. If the contents issue an offensive odor, it is +unsound. Freezing does not hurt canned salmon.</p> +<br> +<p><b>AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES</b></p> +<p>The fish taught and used for packing domestic sardines belong to +the herring family and are said to be of the same species as the +sardines of France, Portugal and Spain. There are two methods +generally used in canning sardines. First, when the fish are put in +a sauce such as mustard dressing or tomato sauce, and secondly +where they are packed in oil.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANNING SARDINES IN SAUCE</b></p> +<p>The heads are cut off, the scales taken off and the fish +cleaned. Blanch 5 minutes; cold dip; drain and pack into the cans +dry. Cover with sauce, either mustard or tomato.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SARDINES IN OIL</b></p> +<p>The fish are prepared in the same manner as above described but +instead of blanching them, they are put in wire baskets and +immersed in boiling peanut or cottonseed oil until tender. Olive +oil might be used, but is rather expensive. When cooked, they are +drained, packed into cans in order, and the cans filled with olive +oil. It is often advisable to salt the fish while fresh and before +cooking as it improves the flavor.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CRAB MEAT</b></p> +<p>Put 5 gallons of water in a large kettle. Add ¼ lb. of +baking soda to it. When boiling vigorously throw the live crabs in +it and boil quickly for 20 minutes. Remove crabs and wash them in +cold water. Pick out all meat. Wash the meat in a brine made of 1 +ounce of salt dissolved in three quarts of water. Drain and pack in +enameled No. 1 flat cans. Sterilize. As soon as the time of +sterilizing is up, plunge the cans immediately into cold water, +otherwise crab meat discolors. For this reason, glass jars are not +so well adapted to crab meat canning as tin cans.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FLAKED CODFISH</b></p> +<p>The fish are first cleaned and the entrails removed, then the +fins are cut off. The fish are then soaked for about two hours in a +salt brine to remove the blood. This brine is made with about 10 +lbs. of salt to 8 gallons of water. The brine is then rinsed off +and the fish are cooked, either boiled or cooked by steam. When +codfish are thoroughly cooked, the meat will drop off of the bone +in pieces, and it is very white in color and crisp in texture. +These pieces are then broken in suitable sizes and are ready to +place in the cans. The cans are filled as full as possible, because +after processing the fish will shrink some.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CRAWFISH</b></p> +<p>The best way to can crawfish is to put it up in a bouillon as +follows: Water, 2 gallons; vinegar, 1 quart; cloves, 10; carrots in +slices, 6; onions in slices, 6; cloves of garlic, 3.</p> +<p>To the above should be added a good quantity of pepper to suit +the taste, a little salt and bunch of parsley and a little thyme. +Boil slowly for about an hour. Throw in the crawfish after the +intestines have been extracted; to do this take the live crawfish +in your hand and tear off the wing which is in the middle of the +tail; it will pull out at the same time a little black intestine +which is very bitter. Boil one or two minutes, never longer, put in +cans and process.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING FISH</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='center'>PRODUCT</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE +SCALD OR BLANCH</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +212°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214°F</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Fish of all kinds</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 to 5 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Shell fish of all kinds</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 min.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>3 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2½ hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>2 hrs.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='center'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_IX' id="CHAPTER_IX"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> +<h3>EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN</h3> +<br> +<p>If the proper sanitary requirements are provided and +instructions of the cold-pack method of canning are followed, it is +entirely safe and practical to use tin cans for all kinds of +fruits, vegetables and other food products. Food +poisoning—commonly called ptomaine poisoning—and the +effects ascribed to "salts of tin" result from improper handling +and improper preparation of the product before packing, or from +allowing the product to stand in the tin after it has been opened. +The raw food products used for canning in tin must be in sound +condition, just as they must be if put into glass containers.</p> +<p>It is true that canned foods may be rendered unfit for use by +improper handling of the product before packing and that +decomposition may occur after canning, owing to insufficient +processing, improper sealing or the use of leaky containers. This +condition, however, is no more likely to be encountered in foods +put up in tin than in products canned in other types of containers. +You run no more danger of poison from your own tin-canned products +than from tin-canned food bought at the store. Most canned foods if +in a spoiled condition readily show this condition by the swelling +of the can or by odor or taste. Canned foods showing such evidences +of decomposition should not be used.</p> +<p>Certain foods which are high in protein, such as meats, peas, +beans and fish products, may undergo decomposition without making +this condition obvious to the senses. It is essential, therefore, +that the greatest care be taken to subject such products to proper +preparation and ample processing. It should be remembered that +canned foods, after opening the containers, should be treated as +perishable products and should be handled with the same precautions +that are applied when fresh products are being used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ADVANTAGES OF CANS</b></p> +<p>Many housewives ask, "Why can in tin when we have always used +glass jars?" There are many advantages in canning in tin which we +can well consider. There is no breakage as in glass; you can handle +the tin cans as carelessly as you choose and you will not hear a +snap or crack indicating a lost jar. Furthermore, tin cans are +easier to handle not only in canning but in storing.</p> +<p>The expense each year of new tin covers or new tin cans is no +more than the purchase of new rubbers and the replacement of broken +glass jars. Furthermore, one big advantage of tin over glass is +that tin cans can be cooled quickly by plunging them into cold +water immediately upon removal from the canner, and thus the +cooking is stopped at the proper moment. The product is +consequently better in form and flavor than when the cooking is +prolonged, as it must be in glass jars. Many women like the large +openings of cans because they can make better packs than when using +narrow-necked jars.</p> +<p>If you do not care to bother with the soldering you can purchase +a safe and simple device that will do the work for you. This device +is called a tin-can sealer. With a sealer no soldering is +necessary. Even an inexperienced person, by following directions +carefully, can seal a can as well as an experienced one. The sealed +cans look exactly like those purchased at the store. Two or three +cans a minute can be sealed with this device.</p> +<p>This is the way to operate a can sealer: Prepare the fruits and +vegetables as for any canning, following directions formerly given +for cold-pack canning.</p> +<p>After the fruits or vegetables have been properly prepared, +blanched and cold-dipped if necessary, place them in sanitary, +solderless cans. Put water or sirup on, according to directions. +Put the top on the can and place the can in the sealer.</p> +<p>Raise the can into the chunk by swinging the raising lever at +the bottom of the machine against the frame. Turn the crank, +rapidly at first, with the right hand, and at the same time push +the seaming-roll lever very slowly with the left hand until it will +go no farther. This is one of the most important steps in the use +of the machine. Continue to give the crank several turns after the +seaming-roll lever has gone as far as it will go. This completes +the first operation or seam.</p> +<p>Continue turning the crank with the right hand, and with the +left hand pull the seaming-roll lever until it will go no farther +in this direction. After this has been done give the crank several +more turns, and the second and final operation is complete. Bring +the seaming-roll lever back to the middle position and remove the +can. The can is then ready for sterilization.</p> +<p>Before sealing a new lot of cans or after changing for a +different size of can, one or two of the cans about to be used +should be tested for leaks. If this is done and the cans stand the +test it will be unnecessary to test the remaining cans of that same +lot. The following is a simple and safe test:</p> +<p>Put one tablespoon of water into an empty can and seal. Have on +hand a vessel containing enough boiling water to cover the can. Set +aside and, as soon as bubbles disappear from the surface, immerse +the can in the hot water. This heats the water in the can and +creates a pressure within the can. Keep the can under the surface +for two minutes, and if by that time no bubbles rise from the can +the can has been sealed air-tight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ADJUSTING THE SEAMING ROLLS</b></p> +<p>If bubbles rise from the can the seam is not sufficiently tight. +If this seam is not sufficiently tight the <i>second</i> seaming +roll needs adjusting, provided the directions regarding seaming +rolls given below have been observed. To set the rolls proceed as +follows: Loosen the nut on the bottom of the seaming-roll pin. With +a screw driver turn the seaming-roll pin counter +clockwise—that is, from right to left. Turn very slightly +and, while holding the seaming-roll pin with the screw driver in +the left hand, tighten nut with the right hand, and test as +before.</p> +<p>Occasionally it is well to compare the seam after the first +operation with the sample can which is sent with the machine.</p> +<p>If seaming rolls cut into the can they are set too close, and +the seaming-roll pin should be adjusted in the opposite direction +from above.</p> +<p>After adjusting, always test cans as suggested above before +canning. The seaming rolls are set before the machine leaves the +factory and should not require adjusting for some time, but I have +found that slight variations in cans may make adjusting +necessary.</p> +<p>If for any reason the second seaming roll is brought into +contact with the can before the first operation is complete it may +injure the can seriously, thus preventing an air-tight seam.</p> +<p>If the first seaming roll is forced in too rapidly it may ruin +the seam. Push the seaming-roll lever gently and steadily, while +turning the crank with the right hand. This rolls the seam +gradually. There is no danger from bringing in the second seaming +roll too quickly if the first seaming roll has completed its +work.</p> +<p>There are thus, as you see, two kinds of tin cans used in home +canning: The sanitary or rim-seal can, which is used with a sealer, +and the cap-and-hole can. The latter consists of a can, and a cover +which carries a rim of solder and is fastened on the can by the +application of heat.</p> +<p>The sanitary can has a cover a trifle larger than the diameter +of the can, thus leaving the full diameter of the can open for +filling. That part of the cover that comes into contact with the +can is coated with a compound or fitted with a paper gasket or ring +which makes a perfect seal when the cover is crimped on the can. +Some mechanical device is necessary for sealing this can, and this +is the sealer.</p> +<p>Cans may be had with inside enamel or plain without any enamel. +The following fruits and vegetables should be canned in +enamel-lined cans: All berry fruits, cherries, plums, rhubarb, +pumpkin, beets and squash. All highly colored products should be +canned in enamel-lined cans to prevent the bleaching effect induced +by their action upon the plain tin. Some prefer to can fish and +meat in the enamel-lined cans. Other products not mentioned here +may be canned in plain cans, since they are less expensive than the +enamel-lined cans.</p> +<p>Covers are lined in two ways, with the paper gasket and the +compound gasket. The compound gasket is merely a preparation, +scarcely visible, applied to the under side of the cover and is not +easily damaged by handling. The paper gasket is a ring placed on +the under side of the cover and must be handled carefully. If the +paper gasket becomes broken the cover must be discarded. To +sterilize covers having the paper gasket, place them in the oven +for a few minutes, but <i>do not wet them</i>, before sealing cans. +Do not remove or handle paper gaskets.</p> +<p>When the cans are removed from the cooker the ends should be +raised; this is caused by the pressure within. If they are not +raised at the ends the cans should be carefully examined for +defects. After the cans are sterilized they should be cooled off in +water. This will cause the ends to collapse. If they do not +collapse the reason is probably due to overfilling. It must be +remembered that peas, beans and corn swell a certain amount after +water is placed in the cans; therefore, in canning these vegetables +the cans should be filled only to within a quarter of an inch of +the top. If the pressure of the air from without will not cause the +end to collapse, it should be forced in by hand.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE TINNING OUTFIT</b></p> +<p>Tin-can sealers are made to handle the regular Number 2, or pint +cans, and the Number 3, or quart cans. The sizes are +interchangeable, so that in a few minutes' time a Number 2 machine +may be changed into a Number 3 machine with the necessary +attachments. So it is economy to buy a machine with these +attachments, as you can then use either pints or quarts as you +desire.</p> +<p>If you are selling to boarding houses and hotels you also will +want half-gallon and gallon cans. If you use these larger-size cans +and want the sealer you can get it for these sizes, but you must +tell exactly what you want when ordering.</p> +<p>The prices which I give are 1919 prices and are of course not +stationary. A sealer that will seal the Number 2 sanitary tin cans +costs $14. A sealer for Number 3 cans will cost the same amount. +But the ideal arrangement is the combination machine which can be +used for both the pints, Number 2, and the quarts, Number 3. This +type of sealer costs $16.50. A special machine is used for sealing +the Number 10 or gallon cans, and its price is $35.</p> +<p>The price of the "winter can opener" is $17.00 for smaller size +and $19.50 for the larger one.</p> +<p>Several standard sizes of tin cans are in common use for canning +purposes, as follows:</p> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>NUMBER</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE<br> +INCHES</td> +<td align='left'>DIAMETER OF<br> +OPENING<br> +INCHES</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>1</td> +<td align='left'>2⅝ by 4</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3-5/16 by 4-9/16</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>4⅛ by 4⅞</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>6-3/16 by 6⅞</td> +<td align='left'>2-1/16 or 2-7/16</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>The cans are put up in crates holding 100 or 500 cans. If you +are canning for the ordinary market use Number 2 cans for berries, +corn, peas and cherries; Number 3 cans for tomatoes, peaches, +apples, pears and sweet potatoes.</p> +<p>In buying cans it is always necessary to state whether you +desire plain tin or lacquered—enameled—cans. In buying +caps always ask for the solder-hemmed caps and give the diameter of +the can opening. For whole fruits and vegetables, cans with +two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch or even larger openings are +preferable. Since the size of the can opening varies and it +ordinarily will not be advisable to have more than one capping +iron, it is recommended that the larger +size—two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch—capping iron be +purchased.</p> +<p>The tin cans come in lots of 100 or 500 cans. It is possible to +buy as few as two dozen cans, but that never pays. It is cheaper to +buy a larger quantity. Number 2 plain sanitary cans in 500 lots +cost $3.45 a hundred; in 100 lots, $3.65 a hundred. Number 2 +sanitary cans—enameled—in 500 lots cost $3.80 a +hundred; in 100 lots, $3.95 a hundred. Number 3, plain, in 500 lots +are $4.50 a hundred; Number 3, plain, in 100 lots are $4.70 a +hundred. Number 3, enameled cans, in 500 lots, are $4.95 a hundred; +Number 3, enameled cans, in 100 lots, are $5.10 a hundred.</p> +<p>The gallons come twelve cans to a case. They are $1.40 a dozen +if 100 cases are bought. If less than 100 cases are ordered they +are $1.50 a dozen.</p> +<p>The cans that you have to solder yourself run just about the +same price, Number 2 being $3.60 in 500 lots and $3.80 in 100 lots. +Number 3 are $4.70 in 500 lots and $4.90 in 100 lots. The buyer +must pay express or freight charges on both sealers and tin +cans.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PREPARING OLD CANS FOR REFILLING</b></p> +<br> +<p>Formerly, after using a tin can once we threw it away; but men +with brains, realizing this waste, have come to our rescue, and as +a consequence we can now use a can three times—that is, if we +have a sealer. The sealer that seals our cans will also open them +for us, so it becomes our winter can opener. With this can opener +we can use our tin cans three times, buying each year only new +tops, which cost less than good rubbers.</p> +<p><b>Cutting and Reflanging Tin Cans.</b> Cutting off the can the +first time. First lift the spring pin in the top piece, push the +lever from you, drop the spring pin between the stop of the first +operation roll and the cutting-roll stop. Place the can in the +sealer, push the can-raising lever against opposite side of frame. +Turn the crank and gently push seaming-roll handle from you until +you come against cutting-roll stop, and the top of your can is cut +off.</p> +<p><b>Reflanging.</b> Remove standard can base and in its place put +in the reflanging base, lift the spring-pin and bring seaming-roll +lever to the original position. Drop the spring pin between the +stops of the first and second operation rollers, place the can in +the sealer, open end down, push raising lever round until the can +engages with the chuck, turn the crank and at the same time +gradually push raising lever round against the frame. The can is +now ready for use again.</p> +<p><b>Resealing</b>. The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch +shorter than originally. Remove the reflanging base, put one of the +narrow washers on the top of the can-raising lever, then the +standard can base, and the sealer is now ready. Proceed as with the +original can.</p> +<p><b>Cutting the Can the Second Time.</b> Proceed as at the first +time, only be sure to cut off the opposite end. The can may be cut +open and reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body. In +cutting and reflanging the second time, leave the +three-sixteenth-inch washer under the can base and reflanging +base.</p> +<p><b>Resealing the Second Time.</b> Remove reflanging base and put +the second three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base +and proceed as directed under resealing.</p> +<b>THE SOLDERING OUTFIT</b> +<p>The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a +tipping copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass +or stoneware cup in which to keep the soldering flux: sal ammoniac, +a few scraps of zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file.</p> +<p><b>Soldering Flux.</b> Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in +crude muriatic acid. It is used for cleaning the irons and for +brushing the tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for +the melted lead to adhere to the tin.</p> +<p><b>To Make the Flux.</b> Purchase at the drug store ten cents' +worth of crude muriatic acid. Place this in a porcelain, stone or +glass jar. Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will +thoroughly dissolve. The flux is always best when it has stood from +twelve to sixteen hours before using. Strain through a piece of +cloth or muslin. Dilute with a little water, about half and half. +This will make the soldering flux. When using keep the flux well +mixed and free from dust and dirt.</p> +<p><b>Tinning Capping Iron.</b> Purchase five or ten cents worth of +sal ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife. Mix +a little solder with the sal ammoniac. Heat the capping iron hot +enough so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a +liquid. Place the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal +ammoniac and solder. Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering +edge of the iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the +solder. All particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, +should be removed from the iron before tinning.</p> +<p><b>Tinning the Tipping Copper.</b> The tipping copper is tinned +in very much the same way as the iron. Sometimes it is desirable to +file the tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to +correct the point. Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the +mixture of sal ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the +melted lead and is bright as silver. The copper should be filed +nearly to a sharp point.</p> +<p><b>Capping a Tin Can.</b> Use one tin can for experimenting. By +capping and tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and +simply putting another cap on the same can, you can use this one +can until you become proficient in capping.</p> +<p>When capping the full packs arrange the cans in rows upon the +table while the capping and tipping irons are heating in the fire. +Take a handful of solder-hemmed caps and place them on all cans +ready to be capped. Place a finger on the vent hole, hold cap in +place, and run the brush containing a small amount of flux evenly +round the solder-hemmed cap with one stroke of the hand. Do this +with all cans ready to be capped. Then take the capping iron from +the fire. Insert in center the upright steel. Hold the capping iron +above the cap until the center rod touches the cap and holds it in +place. Then bring it down in contact with all four points of +solder-hemmed cap and rotate back and forth about three strokes. Do +not bear down on capping iron. A forward and back stroke of this +kind, if properly applied, will perfectly solder the cap in place. +Remove capping iron and inspect the joint.</p> +<p>If any pin-holes are found recap or repair with copper. It may +be necessary to use a piece of wire lead or waste lead rim from a +cap to add more lead to the broken or pinhole places of a cap.</p> +<p><b>Tipping a Tin Can.</b> Take flux jar and brush. Dip brush +lightly in flux and strike the vent hole a side stroke, lightly, +with brush saturated with flux.</p> +<p>Use the waste solder-hemmed cap rim or wire solder. Place point +of wire solder over vent hole. Place upon this the point of the +hot, bright, tipping copper. Press down with a rotary motion. +Remove quickly. A little practice will not only make this easy, but +a smooth, perfect joint and filling will be the result. The cans +are now ready for the canner. The handwork is all over, for the +canner will do the rest.</p> +<p><b>Precautions.</b> Do not fill tin cans too full. Leave a +one-eighth to one-quarter inch space at the top of the can and see +that the product does not touch the cover. If any of the product +touches the cover the application of the hot iron produces steam, +which may blow out the solder, making it impossible to seal the +can.</p> +<br> +<p><b>RULES FOR STERILIZING</b></p> +<p>Remember all fruits and vegetables are prepared for tin cans +exactly as they are for glass jars and the period of cooking or +sterilizing is the same. The following rules will help to avoid +difficulties in the operation of the various canning outfits:</p> +<p>For hot-water-bath outfits, whether homemade or commercial.</p> +<p>1. Support the cans off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and round the cans.</p> +<p>2. Have the water cover the tops of the cans by at least one +inch. The heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the +cans.</p> +<p>3. Count time as soon as the water begins to jump over the +entire surface. Keep it jumping.</p> +<p>4. On removing the cans throw them into a sink with running cold +water or plunge them into a pail of cold water.</p> +<p>5. If the cans are laid on their sides the false bottom is not +necessary.</p> +<br /> +<p>For steam-pressure and pressure-cooker canners the following +precautions should be observed:</p> +<p>1. Lower the inside crate until it rests on the bottom of the +steam-pressure canners. In the case of the pressure cooker put the +rack in the bottom of the cooker.</p> +<p>2. Have the water come to, but not above, the platform.</p> +<p>3. Tin cans can be piled one above the other.</p> +<p>4. When the canner has been filled fasten the opposite clamps +moderately tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp +fully.</p> +<p>5. Have the canner absolutely steam-tight.</p> +<p>6. Allow the pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from +it.</p> +<p>7. Close the pet cock.</p> +<p>8. After the gauge registers the correct amount of pressure, +begin counting the time.</p> +<p>9. Maintain a uniform pressure throughout the process.</p> +<p>10. When the process is completed allow the steam to escape +gradually through the pet cock. You can lift the pet cock slowly, +using a pencil or a knife. This can be done only with tin cans. If +glass jars are used the canner must be cooled before opening the +pet cock. Blowing the steam from the pet cock is likely to cause a +loss of liquid from the partly sealed glass jars.</p> +<p>11. Throw the tin cans into cold water.</p> +<p>12. If tin cans bulge at both ends after they have been +completely cooled, it indicates that they are spoiling and +developing gas, due to bacteria spores or chemical action. These +may be saved if opened at once and resealed or resoldered and +processed again for ten minutes.</p> +<br /> +<p>The following table will help you in estimating how many cans of +fruit and vegetables you will obtain from a bushel of product:</p> +<br> +<h3>NUMBER OF CANS A BUSHEL FILLS</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='center'>NO. 2 CANS</td> +<td align='center'>NO. 3 CANS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall apples</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard peaches</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +<td align='center'>18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Blackberries</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges, sliced</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Windfall oranges, whole</td> +<td align='center'>35</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='center'>22</td> +<td align='center'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Shelled Lima beans</td> +<td align='center'>50</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='center'>30</td> +<td align='center'>20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet corn</td> +<td align='center'>45</td> +<td align='center'>25</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peas, shelled</td> +<td align='center'>16</td> +<td align='center'>10</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_X' id="CHAPTER_X"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER X</h2> +<h3>INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION</h3> +<br> +<p>In some parts of the United States, particularly in the South, +such vegetables as corn, beans, peas, squash, spinach, pumpkin, +etc., are canned by what is known as the fractional sterilization, +or the so-called Three Days Process.</p> +<p>Southern canning experts have had trouble with certain +vegetables, such as those named, when they canned these vegetables +in the wash boiler by the cold-pack or one period method. They say +that the climatic conditions are so different in the South that +what is possible in the North is not possible in the South.</p> +<p>The vegetables are prepared, blanched, cold-dipped and packed as +in the cold-pack method and the filled cans or jars are processed +in the wash boiler or other homemade outfit a given length of time +three successive days.</p> +<p>After each day's processing the cans should be cooled quickly +and set aside, until the next day.</p> +<p>The method is as follows:</p> +<p>Process or sterilize glass jars for the required number of +minutes on the first day, remove from canner, push springs down +tightly as you remove the jar from the canner.</p> +<p>On the second day raise the springs, place the jar in the +canner, process or boil for the same length of time as on the first +day. Remove from the canner and seal tightly. Set aside until the +third day, when the process should be repeated.</p> +<p>For this canning a good spring-top jar is good, although the +Mason jar type of top will serve for one year; after one year of +use it is advisable to fit old Mason jars and similar types with +new tops.</p> +<p>If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, do not disturb +the seal at the second and third processing unless the rubber has +blown out.</p> +<p>This method is only necessary when depending upon boiling water +or condensed steam to do the work.</p> +<p>A steam-pressure canner or pressure cooker is used in the South +and many other places to avoid bothering with vegetables three +successive days.</p> +<p>The steam canner or pressure cooker soon pays for itself in +time, energy, and fuel saved as the vegetables may be canned at +high pressure in one processing.</p> +<p>The following time-tables are those used in the South and will +tell you exactly how long to blanch and process all products. The +preparation of vegetables and fruits is the same as in the +one-period method, but the time of blanching and sterilizing +differs as the time-table indicates.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS</h3> +<h4>(Hot-Water Canner)</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH 1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR No water</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE JAR Quart</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR BOIL 30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans (very young and tender)</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_1'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>2 tablespoonfuls water</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sauerkraut</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_1'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>40 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 40 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Soup mixture</td> +<td align='left'>Boil down thick</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 1 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 1 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>13 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Figs</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>1-2 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 2 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>25-35 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td></td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>30 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_1' id="Footnote_1_1"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>To make sirups recommended, boil sugar and water +together in proportions given below:</p> +<ul> +<li>Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>One pint sugar is one pound.</li> +</ul> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS</h3> +<h4>The following vegetables should be processed the same length of +time on each of three successive days:</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>SIZE JAR</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR<br> +BOIL ON EACH<br> +OF THREE<br> +SUCCESSIVE DAYS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>2 min. on cob</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Garden peas</td> +<td align='left'>1 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1¾ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1¾ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook done</td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Quart</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_2'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>Pint</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_2' id="Footnote_1_2"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN</h3> +<h4>(Hot-Water Canner)</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>NO. CAN</td> +<td align='left'>EXHAUST<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS<br> +OR BOIL</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No water</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>String beans</td> +<td align='left'>3-5 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>2 hrs. and 20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>2 tablespoonfuls water</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Baby beets</td> +<td align='left'>Cook ¾ done</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_3'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hrs.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Soup mixture</td> +<td align='left'>Boil down thick</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 3 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>8 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>32 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Figs</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>25 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>20 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>No. 4 sirup</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>35 min.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_3' id="Footnote_1_3"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>To make sirup recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below.</p> +<ul> +<li>Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 4, use 5 pounds 8 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>Sirup No. 5, use 6 pounds 13 ounces to 1 gallon water.</li> +<li>One pint sugar is one pound.</li> +</ul> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN</h3> +<h4>The following vegetables should be processed the same length of +time on each of three successive days:</h4> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>BLANCH</td> +<td align='left'>LIQUOR</td> +<td align='left'>NO. CAN</td> +<td align='left'>EXHAUST<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS OR<br> +BOIL ON EACH<br> +OF THREE<br> +SUCCESSIVE DAYS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>2 min. on cob</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Garden peas</td> +<td align='left'>1 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Water, salt and sugar</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>1 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>50 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lima beans</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>3 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>50 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Squash</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1½ hr.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pumpkin</td> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Cook soft and creamy</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 10 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr. and 15 min.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>4 min.</td> +<td align='left'>Brine<a href='#Footnote_1_4'>[1]</a></td> +<td align='left'>2</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>1 hr.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_4' id="Footnote_1_4"></a> +<p>[1] Brine is made of 2½ ounces (⅓ cup) of salt to 1 +gallon of water.</p> +<p>You will notice in the time-table for tin, that there is a +column for "Exhausting." After the can is packed and capped it is +placed in the canner of boiling water to within 1 inch of the top +of the can where it remains the number of minutes, usually three, +indicated on the time-table. This is done to force the air from the +can through the little hole left open in the top, and is called +exhausting. Cans that are not exhausted frequently bulge after +processing and are looked upon with suspicion. Cans exhausted too +long frequently cave in at the sides. The time-table should be used +carefully and followed strictly in this part of the process. Tin +cans do not require exhausting in the Northern and Western +states.</p> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES STEAM PRESSURE</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>VEGETABLE</td> +<td align='left'>PROCESS,<br> +MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>TEMPERATURE,<br> +DEGREES<br> +FAHRENHEIT</td> +<td align='left'>PRESSURE<br> +POUNDS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Asparagus</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>String beans, No. 2</td> +<td align='left'>45</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>String beans, No. 3</td> +<td align='left'>55</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Beets</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Corn</td> +<td align='left'>80</td> +<td align='left'>250</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Okra</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Peas</td> +<td align='left'>45</td> +<td align='left'>240</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Soup, concentrated vegetable</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Spinach</td> +<td align='left'>30</td> +<td align='left'>228</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'></td> +<td align='left'>Sweet potatoes</td> +<td align='left'>70</td> +<td align='left'>250</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +</tr> +</table> +<p>Corn, lima beans and peas should never be packed in larger +container than No. 2. Corn is cut from cob after blanching.</p> +<p>The brine used is made of 2½ ounces salt to 1 gallon of +water, except for asparagus, which contains 4 ounces to 1 +gallon.</p> +<p>Beets and rhubarb when packed in tin must be put in enamel-lined +cans.</p> +<p>Process pints as for No. 2 cans; quarts as for No. 3 cans, +adding 10 minutes to each period.</p> +<p>String beans when more mature should be processed at 15 pounds +pressure for 30 minutes for No. 2, and 45 minutes for No. 3.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XI' id="CHAPTER_XI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> +<h3>WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL</h3> +<br> +<p>Every day brings letters to my desk saying, "Why did my jars of +vegetables lose water?" or, "When I looked into my canner I saw all +the beautiful dark sirup in the bottom of the canner instead of in +the jars," or, "What shall I do, my beets are all white?" etc., +etc. In this chapter I am going to try and tell you a few things +you must and must not do. A few "Do's" and "Don'ts" may help you a +little in your canning and food preserving.</p> +<p>I want to say right here that if you have failures do not blame +the method as we are always so apt to do. Experts have worked long +enough, carefully and thoroughly enough, to convince themselves and +others that the cold-pack method and the intermittent method, which +methods are employed for cooking the product in the jar, are sure, +safe, reliable and efficient methods. So if your food spoils +convince yourself it is not the method but something else. Spoilage +is due to imperfect jars, imperfect rubbers, imperfect sealing of +tin cans, careless blanching, insufficient cold dipping or poor +sterilizing.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CAN-RUBBERS</b></p> +<p>Possibly your canning troubles are all due to using a poor grade +of rubber rings. This is poor economy. Rubbers are apt to give more +trouble than anything else to canners when using glass jars. Many +of the rubbers sold are of a very poor quality, disintegrating +quickly when subjected to heat and strain. My sister, canning in +the hot climate of India, has more trouble with the rubber +proposition than anything else.</p> +<p>You want good rubbers, are willing to pay for them, and here is +what you should know about rubber rings.</p> +<p>The one-period, cold-pack method and the intermittent method of +home canning require a rubber ring essentially different from that +commonly used in the old hot-pack method of home canning. +Investigation shows that many of the rings upon the market are +unsuitable for these newer methods, being unable to withstand the +long periods of boiling required in the canning of vegetables and +meats.</p> +<p>Practical canning tests have indicated that rubber rings for use +in this method should meet the following requirements:</p> +<p><b>Inside Diameter</b>. The ring should fit closely, requiring a +little stretching to get it around the neck of the jar. For +standard jars the ring should have an inside diameter of 2¼ +inches.</p> +<p><b>Width of Ring and Flange</b>. The width of the ring or flange +may vary from one-fourth of an inch to twelve thirty-seconds of an +inch. Tests which have been made show that fewer cases of +"blow-out" occur when the flange is ten thirty-seconds of an +inch.</p> +<p><b>Thickness</b>. Rubber rings as found on the market may vary +from 1/18 to 1/10 of an inch in thickness. Tests show that 1/12 of +an inch in thickness is sufficient to take up the unevenness in the +jar and still not so thick as to make it difficult to place the cap +or adjust the bail.</p> +<p>Cold-pack and intermittent-canning require a rubber ring that is +tough, does not enlarge perceptibly when heated in water or steam, +and is not forced out of position between the top and the jar by +slight pressure within the jar. This we call a "blow-out."</p> +<p>Rubber rings should be capable of withstanding four hours of +sterilization in boiling water without blowing out on partially +sealed jars, or one hour under ten pounds of steam pressure. They +should be selected with reference to proper inside diameter, width +of flange, and thickness. Good rubber will stretch considerably and +return promptly to place without changing the inside diameter. They +should also be reasonably firm and able to stand without breakage. +Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter during the +manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index to its +usefulness in home canning. Red, white, black or gray may be +used.</p> +<p>Always use <i>new</i> can-rubbers with each year's product of +canned goods. An old rubber may look like a new one but it has lost +its elasticity and its use may cause imperfect sealing and thus +endanger the keeping quality of the food. This is always a hard +thing to impress upon thrifty penny-saving housekeepers. The old +rubber looks so good, so why not use it? But be wise in this and +remember it is <i>never safe to use old rubbers</i>. New rubbers +are expensive but what about the cost of the product, the loss of +your time and fuel! One jar lost due to an old rubber is so much +food, time and fuel lost.</p> +<p>And do not think yourself thrifty to use two old rubber rings +instead of one, thereby thinking to obtain a better seal, for you +will not. Two old rubbers are inferior in strength to one new good +rubber. If you use old rubbers and your canned goods spoil, blame +the rubbers.</p> +<br> +<p><b>GLASS JARS</b></p> +<p>Next in importance to the rubbers are the glass jars you use. +There are many kinds of fruit jars on the market. The question is +frequently asked, "Which jars on the market are the best." The only +answer to that is to choose the jar which is simplest in +construction, which will seal perfectly and wash easily, which +protects the contained food against contact with metal, which has +the fewest parts to lose or misplace and which fits the shelves and +receptacles planned to hold it.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FLAT SOUR</b></p> +<p>Flat-sour often causes annoyance to beginners in canning some +vegetables, such as corn, peas, beans and asparagus. These canned +foods may show no signs of spoilage and yet when the can is opened +the product may have a sour taste and a disagreeable odor. This +"flat-sour" is not harmful and must not be confused with +"botulinus," which is harmful. However, the taste and odor are so +disagreeable you will have no desire to eat "flat-sour" canned +goods.</p> +<p>This trouble can be avoided if you will use fresh products, that +is, those which have not been allowed to wilt or stand around the +shops for several days, and will blanch, cold-dip, and pack one jar +of product at a time, and place each jar in the canner as it is +packed. The first jars in will not be affected by the extra +cooking. When the steam-pressure canner is used the jars or cans +may be placed in the retort and the cover placed into position but +not clamped down until the retort is filled.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TROUBLES WITH CORN</b></p> +<p>Corn seems to give the most trouble, but with a little care and +study this product may be canned as easily as any other grown in +the garden. A little experience in selecting the ears and ability +to recognize corn that is just between the milk and dough stage is +important. Blanch not longer than five minutes. A plunge in cold +water is sufficient. Cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife +and pack at once in sterilized jars. Best results can be +accomplished when two people cut and one person fills. If it is +necessary for one person to work alone, cut off sufficient corn to +fill one jar, pour on <i>boiling</i> water, add salt, place rubber +and cap in position and put the jar at once in the canner. A little +overcooking does not injure the quality of canned corn. Corn should +not be tightly packed in the jar; it expands a little in processing +and for this reason each jar should be filled scant full. Corn that +has a cheesy appearance after canning had reached the dough stage +before being packed. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the +cold dip and large quantities should not be dipped at one time +unless sufficient help is available to handle the product +quickly.</p> +<p>Some to be absolutely sure when canning corn, cook it for ten +minutes in hot water before packing into jars.</p> +<p>Leave fully one inch of space at the top when packing corn but +enough water may be poured into the jar to fill the can or jar, for +when the corn swells the water will be absorbed.</p> +<p><b>Corn Turning Dark</b>. A dark color in canned corn is due to +some of the following causes:</p> +<p>1. Using water that contains too much iron.</p> +<p>2. Using corn that has reached the dough stage.</p> +<p>3. Blanching for too long a period—five minutes is +sufficient for corn.</p> +<p><b>Water-Logged or Soaked Corn</b>. When canned corn becomes +"water-logged" or "soaked" it is due to such causes as the +following:</p> +<p>1. Allowing the product to stand in the cold water too long +after the hot dip.</p> +<p>2. Allowing the jars to stand after they have been packed, and +filled with boiling water. The jars should be immediately placed in +the sterilizer after being packed.</p> +<p>3. Allowing ears of corn to stand in cold water after +opening.</p> +<p>4. Heating corn in warm water over a slow fire.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BEETS, THEIR LOSS OF COLOR</b></p> +<p>The loss of color in canned beets is due to faulty methods of +preparation before packing them into the jars. To secure good +results 3 or 4 inches of the top and all of the tail should be left +on while blanching. Beets should be blanched for five minutes and +the skin should be scraped but not peeled. Beets should be packed +whole if possible.</p> +<p>Small beets that run forty to a quart are less likely to fade +and are the most suitable size for first-class packs. The older the +beets the more chance there is for loss of color. Well-canned beets +will show a slight loss of color when removed from the canner, but +will brighten up in a few days.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CLOUDY PEAS</b></p> +<p>The condition of peas known as "cloudy" is due to such causes as +the following:</p> +<p>1. Cracking the skin of the pea.</p> +<p>2. Blanching for too long a period.</p> +<p>3. Use of water which is too hard or has too much mineral +content.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRINKAGE OF PRODUCT DURING CANNING</b></p> +<p>Shrinkage may be due to one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Improper blanching and cold-dipping.</p> +<p>2. Careless packing and using variety of sizes.</p> +<p>3. Sterilizing for too long a period.</p> +<p>4. Lack of sizing whole products for the container.</p> +<p>Sometimes there is a natural shrinkage that cannot be prevented. +This is due to the fact that vegetables contain air in their +tissues and when this air is driven off by the heat, the boiling +water in the jar rushes in to fill its place. In consequence we +have an apparent shrinkage in the amount of water. So be careful to +do the blanching as correctly as possible to drive out the air; +however, the product will keep just as well in a jar half full of +water as if entirely covered with liquid. The contents of the jar +whether food or air are sterile.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHRINKAGE OF GREENS</b></p> +<p>Shrinkage of greens or pot herbs during the canning process is +usually due to insufficient blanching. The proper way to blanch all +greens or pot herbs is in a steamer or in a vessel improvised to do +the blanching in live steam above the water line. If this is not +done much of the mineral salts and volatile oil contents will be +extracted by the water and lost.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LOSS OF LIQUID DURING CANNING</b></p> +<p>A loss of liquid in canning with a hot-water-bath outfit may be +caused by one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Not having the water in the sterilizing vat cover the tops of +the jars by at least one inch.</p> +<p>2. Not providing a suitable platform to hold the jars off the +bottom of the sterilizing vat, permitting circulation of water +under as well as around the jars.</p> +<p>3. Not having the wire bail that goes over the glass tops of +jars sufficiently tight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>REASONS WHY JUICES ARE DRAWN FROM JARS WHEN CANNING WITH +STEAM PRESSURE</b></p> +<p>1. Open pet cock after pointer or gauge has reached zero; test +for pressure by opening pet cock slowly at first. The gauge does +not register pressure until about one pound of pressure has formed, +hence opening the pet cock before the pointer is at zero means that +from one to two pounds of pressure is being relieved and this will +draw the juices the same as allowing the boiler to stand and a +vacuum to form.</p> +<p>2. Allowing the pressure to fluctuate during the time of +sterilizing, such as running the pressure up to fifteen, back to +seven or eight and then up again.</p> +<p>3. Wire bails can be and should be a little tighter when jars +are put in a steam pressure canner. The clamp should be left up as +stated.</p> +<p>4. There may be an escape of steam around the seal of the boiler +and this would allow the pressure on the inside of the boiler to +fluctuate.</p> +<p>Any one of those four things will always cause loss of +juice.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OPERATION OF HOT-WATER-BATH OUTFIT</b></p> +<p>These four rules will help in the operation of the +hot-water-bath canning outfit: Example, wash boiler.</p> +<p>1. Support the jars off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and around the jars.</p> +<p>2. Have the water cover the tops of the jars by at least one +inch. The heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the +jars.</p> +<p>3. Count time as soon as the water begins to <i>jump</i> over +the entire surface. Keep it jumping.</p> +<p>4. Remove jars from the water and tighten the covers as soon as +the time is up.</p> +<p>Rapid cooling of the products prevents overcooking, clarifies +the liquid and preserves the shape and texture.</p> +<p>Operation of steamers or "double-deckers" as they are sometimes +called. These have a small amount of water in a pan below two racks +and the products cook in steam instead of boiling water.</p> +<p>1. Have water boiling in pan when products are put in.</p> +<p>2. Use same time-table as for hot-water bath or wash boiler.</p> +<p>3. Remove jars from steam at the end of the sterilizing period. +Do not allow them to "cool off" in the steamer.</p> +<p>The operation of a water-seal canner is very simple.</p> +<p>1. Jars put on racks and lowered in water as in wash-boiler but +due to an extra jacket the temperature is higher than boiling +water.</p> +<p>2. Follow time-table under water-seal.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OPERATION OF STEAM PRESSURE AND PRESSURE COOKER +CANNER</b></p> +<p>1. Place each jar in the canner as soon as it is packed.</p> +<p>2. Have water come up to but not above the platform.</p> +<p>3. Have canner absolutely steam tight.</p> +<p>4. When canner has been filled fasten opposite clamps moderately +tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully.</p> +<p>5. Allow pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from +it.</p> +<p>6. Close pet cock.</p> +<p>7. Force pressure to the required point before counting +time.</p> +<p>8. Maintain a uniform pressure during the sterilizing +period.</p> +<p>9. Allow canner to cool before opening pet cock.</p> +<p>10. Have pet cock completely closed during the cooling.</p> +<p>11. Open pet cock before vacuum forms. This is evidenced by a +rush of air into the canner when the pet cock is open. You can test +this by placing the finger over the end of the pet cock. If a +vacuum forms it will draw the flesh of the finger into the +opening.</p> +<p>12. Remove jars from canner and tighten lids as soon as canner +is opened.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BREAKAGE OF JARS</b></p> +<p>When breakage of jars occurs it is due to such causes as +these:</p> +<p>1. Overpacking jars. Corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell or +expand in processing. Do not quite fill jars with these +products.</p> +<p>2. Placing cold jars in hot water or vice versa. As soon as jars +are filled with hot sirup or hot water, place immediately in the +canner.</p> +<p>3. Having the wire bail of glass top jars too tight.</p> +<p>4. In steam canner, having too much water in the canner. The +water should not come above the tray.</p> +<p>5. Cold draft striking the jars when they are removed from the +canner.</p> +<p>6. Wire spring too tight, thus breaking jar when contents +expand.</p> +<br> +<p><b>MOLD ON CANNED PRODUCTS</b></p> +<p>Mold may result from one or more of the following:</p> +<p>1. Leaky rubbers or defective joints.</p> +<p>2. Removing tops from the jars at the end of sterilizing period +and substituting new rubbers, without returning the jars to the +canning outfit for at least a few minutes.</p> +<p>3. If the jars are kept in a damp cellar where the rubbers may +decompose, mold may enter through these decomposed rubbers.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ACIDITY OF TOMATOES AFTER CANNING</b></p> +<p>Too great a degree of acidity in canned tomatoes may be due to +climatic conditions or overripe or underripe product. Such acidity +can be corrected by adding ¼ teaspoonful of baking soda to +one quart of tomatoes.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WATER REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME CANNING</b></p> +<p>The hardening of beans, peas and some other products after +cooking or processing, or the turning of green vegetables to a dark +or russet color usually indicates that the water contains too high +a percentage of mineral matter. Water used for canning purposes +should be pure, soft if possible or as free from objectionable and +excessive qualities of mineral matter as possible. If you are to +can any large quantity of food products and have difficulty with +the water available, it would be well for you to have the water +analyzed and for you to secure the advice of some one at your +college of agriculture.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TOO MUCH SALT IN CANNED GOODS INJURIOUS TO QUALITY</b></p> +<p>Most vegetables as well as meats are injured in quality by an +excessive use of salt for seasoning in the canning process. A +little salt is very palatable and its use should be encouraged but +it is better to add no salt in canning than to use too much, as it +can be added to suit the taste when served.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ALTITUDE AND ITS EFFECT ON CANNING</b></p> +<p>Remember that practically all instructions on home canning are +based upon a time schedule for sterilization from sea level to an +altitude of 500 feet above sea level. When canning at an altitude +of more than 500 feet above sea level, it will be necessary to use +your judgment in the increase of time for sterilizing on the basis +of 20 per cent for each 4,000 feet.</p> +<p>Blanching means <i>boiling</i>, not hot. In different directions +for canning we often find "hot" water mentioned when boiling water +is intended. Water should be <i>boiling at a gallop</i> when +vegetables are blanched—berries and soft fruits are not +usually blanched, though some are scalded to loosen the skin.</p> +<br> +<p><b>BERRIES OR FRUIT RISING TO THE TOP</b></p> +<p>Some women are disturbed because berries and fruits have a +tendency to always rise to the top of the jar leaving a sirup space +in the bottom. To prevent this you can scald all berries and fruits +which are not ordinarily scalded, for one minute and then cold-dip +them. They will be softened some, but remain firm, and can be +packed very closely in a jar. They can be packed so closely that +only a little sirup can be added. When a jar thus packed comes from +the sterilizer the berries or fruit are not floating as they would +be if they were not scalded.</p> +<p>Another method employed to prevent berries from floating is to +put the hot sterilized jar on its side while cooling and to roll it +frequently during the cooling period. The berries are then evenly +distributed through the sirup.</p> +<p>In canning mushrooms in tin, always use lacquered cans. Do not +fail to blanch and cold dip before packing, and remove the +mushrooms immediately after opening the tin cans.</p> +<p>In canning cabbage and other similar products always soak the +product in cold brine for one hour before sterilizing. Use ½ +pound salt to 12 quarts water. This is believed to improve the +flavor. Always wash greens or other vegetables, to remove all dirt +and grit.</p> +<br> +<p><b>TROUBLES WITH TIN CANS</b></p> +<p>To discover pin-holes or any leaks in a tin can, immerse it in +boiling water after sealing and if there is any bubbling from the +can, you may rest assured it needs resealing.</p> +<p>Swells in tin cans are caused by insufficient sterilization. The +action of bacteria causes gas to form in the can and as a result +there is a bulging at either end. If left alone long enough the +cans will explode. Watch carefully all bulging cans and use them +first. Sometimes a slight bulge occurs when a can has been filled +too full.</p> +<p>If you have trouble sealing tin cans the chances are that the +can is too full. See that no particle of food touches the top or +when soldering, if you employ that method of sealing, small pin +holes will be blown in the seal by escaping steam which is +generated by the hot sealer coming in contact with the cold food. +Another cause of sealing trouble lies sometimes in a poorly heated +capping steel or because it is not kept brightly tinned. To make a +proper seal the steel must be kept bright, hot and clean.</p> +<p>Also, be sure you buy good solder as there are inferior grades +that are too poor to flow when properly heated.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FROZEN PRODUCTS</b></p> +<p>Watch all jars and cans that have been subjected to a freeze. If +the cans or jars do not burst the only harm done is a slight +softening of the food tissues. In glass jars after freezing there +is sometimes a small crack left which will admit air and +consequently bacteria.</p> +<p>Sometimes cans and jars tip over in the wash boiler during +sterilizing. This is caused by using a false-bottom which is too +low or because it is not well perforated. Or it may be due to the +fact that the jar was not well packed and so may be too light in +weight.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XII' id="CHAPTER_XII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> +<h3>GETTING READY TO DRY</h3> +<br> +<p>For various reasons women have not taken so kindly to drying +fruits and vegetables as they have to canning these foods.</p> +<p>One woman said to me: "I like the canning because I can come to +a demonstration and see the whole process carried through from +start to finish. The drying of strawberries cannot be completed in +sixteen minutes as the canning is." And another woman said: "What I +do not like about drying is having the stuff standing round the +house somewhere for so many hours. I like to get things in the jars +and out of sight."</p> +<p>These two objections seem to be expressed more than any other. +And in addition there is a third objection to drying: "I want my +prepared food ready to use on a minute's notice. I can quickly open +a can of my fruit and vegetables and there it is ready. With my +dried things I have to allow time for soaking and cooking." This we +will have to admit is true. But what weight have these three +arguments against the many advantages of drying?</p> +<p>When we study the history of food preservation we find that +drying was practiced before canning, pickling or preserving. I know +my grandmother successfully dried quantities of things.</p> +<p>Vegetable and fruit drying have been little practiced for a +generation or more, though there have been some thrifty +housekeepers who have clung to their dried corn, peas, beans and +apples. A friend of mine says: "Why, dried corn has a much better, +sweeter taste than your canned stuff. I would rather have one +little dish of my delicious dried corn than two big dishes of your +canned corn."</p> +<p>Drying, I think we will all admit, does not and cannot take the +place of canning fruits and vegetables in glass or tin. Drying and +canning are twin sisters, and always go hand in hand.</p> +<p>The ideal arrangement for all homes, whether on the farm, in the +village, in the town or in the city, is to have an ample supply of +canned food for emergencies and quick service, and an equally ample +supply of dried foods when meals are planned beforehand and there +is time enough for the soaking and cooking of the dried foods.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE ADVANTAGES OF DRYING</b></p> +<p>When we come right down to facts, drying has many advantages +over canning.</p> +<p>The process is very simple, as you will see. The cost is slight. +In almost every home the necessary equipment, in its simplest form, +is already at hand. There is no expense for glass jars or tin cans, +and with ordinary care there is no loss of products, as there may +be in handling glass jars or from spoilage. The actual work +requires less time and less skill than canning and the dried +products when properly prepared are just as good as the canned +ones—some say better.</p> +<p>One special thing in favor of drying is the little storage space +needed. You can often reduce 100 pounds of fresh product to ten +pounds by drying, without any loss of food value and with little +loss of flavor.</p> +<p>Dried products can be moved more conveniently than glass jars or +tin cans, for they are usually reduced to from one-third to +one-fifth of the original bulk.</p> +<p>Another valuable thing about drying is that the little odds and +ends one would scarcely bother to can may be dried in the oven as +you go about your housework.</p> +<p>I have often been asked the difference between the meaning of +the terms "evaporated," "dried," "desiccated" and "dehydrated." +These terms are used more or less interchangeably when applied to +foods from which the moisture has been removed. In a general way, +however, "evaporated" products are those from which the moisture +has been removed through the agency of artificial heat; dried fruit +is that which has been exposed to the heat of the sun, though not +infrequently the term is applied to products handled in the +evaporator. The other terms are commonly applied to products that +have been evaporated by one of the various patented processes in +which equipment of some special design has been used.</p> +<p>To avoid any confusion we will use the general term "dried" for +all products that have enough of the water removed to prevent +bacterial action, but which still retain the maximum food value, +color and flavor of the original product. And that is what we want +to accomplish when we attempt to dry.</p> +<p>How are we to remove the water and still retain food value, +color and flavor? There are three principal methods by which we can +do this. First, by artificial heat. Drying by artificial heat is +done in the oven or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays +suspended on the stove or in a specially constructed dryer built at +home or purchased.</p> +<p>Second, by the sun. Sun drying is done either out of doors in +the sun, under glass in sun parlors, or the products are hung in +the attic where the sun has free access.</p> +<p>Third, satisfactory drying may be done by an air blast from an +electric fan.</p> +<p>Of course any one of these may be used alone or two different +methods may be combined. You can start a product on the stove and +finish it in the sun, or <i>vice versa.</i></p> +<p>The simplest and yet the most effective drying may be done on +plates or dishes placed in the oven. It may be done on the back of +the kitchen stove with these same utensils while the oven is being +used for baking. In this way left-overs and other bits of food may +be dried with slight trouble while the stove is being used, and +saved for winter use. This method is especially effective for sweet +corn. A few sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a single +turnip, may be dried and saved.</p> +<p>To keep the heat from being too great, when drying in the oven +leave the oven door partly open. For oven use, a simple tray may be +made of galvanized-wire screen of convenient size, with the edges +bent up for an inch or two on each side. At each corner this tray +should have a leg an inch or two in length to hold it up from the +bottom of the oven and permit circulation of air round the +product.</p> +<p>Oven drying in a gas range is an effective method if the +temperature is kept even. An oven thermometer is a great +convenience, otherwise the temperature will have to be carefully +watched and the burners turned as low as possible. It is economy in +the end to purchase an oven thermometer, for then you can have the +temperature just right. It is best to start the temperature at 110 +degrees Fahrenheit and dry at 130 degrees. Never go over 150 +degrees.</p> +<p>If you wish to dry in the oven over the kerosene stove, place +soapstones over each burner to prevent the heat from becoming too +intense. Turn the burners very low until the stones are thoroughly +heated. You can turn off the burners completely after the desired +temperature is reached and it will be maintained from the heat of +the stones for five or six hours. If more time than that is +required for the drying, it may be necessary to light the burners +again before the end of the process. The products should be turned +constantly, so that they may dry evenly.</p> +<p>When using any oven for drying you can cover the oven racks with +cheesecloth and spread the products on them. Always have the racks +two or three inches apart to allow free circulation of air.</p> +<p>An effective dryer for use over a stove or range may easily be +made at home. For the frame use strips of wood a half inch thick +and two inches wide. The trays or shelves are made of +galvanized-wire screen of small mesh tacked to the supports. +Separate trays sliding on strips attached to the framework are +desirable. This dryer may be suspended from the ceiling over the +kitchen stove or range or over an oil, gasoline or gas stove, and +it may be used while cooking is being done. If an oil stove is used +there must be a tightly fitting tin or galvanized-iron bottom to +the dryer, to prevent the fumes of the oil from reaching and +passing through the material which is to be dried. A bottom of this +kind may be easily attached to any dryer, homemade or commercial. A +framework crane makes it possible for this dryer to be swung to one +side when not in use.</p> +<p>A larger kind of homemade stove dryer can be made. This is a +good size: base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The lower part +or supporting framework, six inches high, is made of galvanized +sheet iron, slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with two +ventilating holes in each of the four sides. The frame which rests +on this base is made of strips of wood one or one and a half inches +wide. Wooden strips, an inch and a quarter wide and three inches +apart, serve to brace the sides and furnish supports for the +trays.</p> +<p>In a dryer of the dimensions given there is room for eight +trays. The sides, top and back are of galvanized-iron or tin +sheets, tacked to the framework, though thin strips of wood may be +used instead of the metal. Small hinges and a thumb latch are +provided for the door. Galvanized sheet iron, with numerous small +holes in it, is used for making the bottom of the dryer. To prevent +direct heat from coming in contact with the product and also to +distribute the heat by radiation, a piece of galvanized sheet iron +is placed two inches above the bottom. This piece is three inches +shorter and three inches narrower than the bottom and rests on two +wires fastened to the sides.</p> +<p>The trays are made of wooden frames of one-inch strips, to which +is tacked galvanized-wire screen. Each tray should be three inches +shorter than the dryer and enough narrower to allow it to slide +easily on the supports when being put in or taken out.</p> +<p>In placing the trays in the dryer push the lower one back as far +as it will go, leaving a three-inch space in front. Place the next +tray even with the front, leaving the space at the back. Alternate +all the trays in this way to facilitate the circulation of the +heated air. It is well to have a ventilating opening, six by two +inches, in the top of the dryer to discharge moisture. The trays +should be shifted during the drying process to procure uniformity +of drying.</p> +<p>Several types of stove dryers are on the market. One of these +has a series of trays in a framework, forming a compartment. This +is placed on top of the stove. Another is a shallow metal box which +is filled with water. This is really a water-bath dryer. This dryer +or dehydrator can be used on either a gas or coal range. A +thermometer is necessary in order to maintain the right +temperature. The slices of vegetables or fruit are placed on the +tray with the thermometer, and the dryer does the work.</p> +<p>Commercial dryers having their own furnaces may be bought at +prices ranging from $24 to $120. Some of these, in the smaller +sizes, may be bought without furnaces and used on top of the +kitchen stove. The cost is from $16 upward.</p> +<p>Sun drying has much to recommend it. There is no expense for +fuel, no thermometer is needed, and there is no danger of +overheating the fruits or vegetables.</p> +<p>For sun drying of fruits and vegetables, the simplest way is to +spread the slices or pieces on sheets of plain paper or lengths of +muslin and expose them to the sun. Muslin is to be preferred if +there is danger of sticking. Trays may be used instead of paper or +muslin. Sun drying requires bright, hot days and a breeze. Once or +twice a day the product should be turned or stirred and the dry +pieces taken out. The drying product should be covered with +cheesecloth tacked to a frame for protection from dust and flying +insects. If trays are rested on supports placed in pans of water, +the products will be protected from crawling insects. Care must be +taken to provide protection from rain, dew and moths. During rains +and just before sunset the products should be taken indoors.</p> +<p>To make a cheap tray for use in sun drying, take strips of wood +three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches wide for the sides +and ends. To form the bottom, laths should be nailed to these +strips, with spaces of one-eighth of an inch between the laths to +permit air circulation. A length of four feet, corresponding to the +standard lengths of laths, is economical. Instead of the laths +galvanized-wire screen with openings of one-eighth or one-quarter +of an inch, may be used. In using wire the size of the tray should +be regulated by the width of wire screen obtainable. The trays +should be of uniform size, so that they may be stacked together for +convenience in handling.</p> +<p>A small homemade sun dryer, easily constructed, is made of light +strips of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of galvanized-wire +screen and some cheesecloth. A convenient size for the glass top is +eighteen by twenty-four inches. To hold the glass make a light +wooden frame of strips of wood a half inch thick and one inch wide. +This frame should have legs of material one by one and a half +inches, with a length of twelve inches for the front legs and +eighteen inches for those in the rear. This will cause the top to +slope, which aids in circulation of air and gives direct exposure +to the rays of the sun. As a tray support nail a strip of wood to +the legs on each of the four sides, about four inches below the top +framework and sloping parallel with the top. The tray is made of +thin strips of wood about two inches wide and has a galvanized-wire +screen bottom. There will be a space of about two inches between +the top edges of the tray and the glass top of the dryer, to allow +for circulation of air.</p> +<p>Protect both sides, the bottom and the front of the dryer with +cheesecloth, tacked on securely and snugly, to exclude insects and +dust without interfering with circulation. At the rear place a +cheesecloth curtain, tacked at the top but swinging free below, to +allow the tray to be moved in and out. Brace the bottom of this +curtain with a thin strip of wood, as is done in window shades. +This curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons when the tray +is in place. If you have a sunny, breezy attic you can hang your +drying trays there.</p> +<p>The use of an electric fan is an effective means of drying. As +there is no danger of the food scorching, the fan proves as +effective as the sun for drying.</p> +<p>Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed on trays one foot wide +and three feet long. These trays are stacked and the fan placed +close to one end, with the current of air directed lengthwise along +the trays. The number of trays to be used is regulated by the size +of the fan. Drying by this process may be done in twenty-four hours +or less. With sliced string beans and shredded sweet potatoes a few +hours are sufficient if the air is dry.</p> +<p>Of importance equal to proper drying is the proper packing and +storage of the finished product. Use baking-powder and coffee cans +and similar covered tins, pasteboard boxes with tight-fitting +covers, strong paper bags, and patented paraffin paper boxes, which +may be bought in quantities at comparatively low cost.</p> +<p>A paraffin container of the type used by oyster dealers for the +delivery of oysters will be found inexpensive and easily handled. +If using this or a baking-powder can or similar container, after +filling adjust the cover closely. The cover should then be sealed. +To do this paste a strip of paper round the top of the can, +covering the joint between can and cover for the purpose of +excluding air. Pasteboard boxes should be sealed by applying melted +paraffin with a brush to the joint.</p> +<p>If a paper bag is used the top should be twisted, doubled over +and tied with a string. Moisture may be kept out of paper bags by +coating them, using a brush dipped into melted paraffin. Another +good precaution is to store bags in an ordinary lard pail or can or +other tin vessel having a closely fitting cover.</p> +<p>The products should be stored in a cool, dry place, well +ventilated and protected from rats, mice and insects. In localities +where the air is very moist, moisture-proof containers must be +used. It is good practice to use small containers, so that it will +not be necessary to leave the contents exposed long after opening +and before using.</p> +<p>A very good plan is to pack just enough fruit or vegetables for +one or two meals in each container. This will lessen the chance of +large quantities being spoiled. For convenience label all +packages.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIII' id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a> +<h2><b>CHAPTER XIII</b></h2> +<h3>HOW TO DRY FRUITS</h3> +<br> +<p>Having decided to add the accomplishment of drying to your other +housewifely arts, you have given some thought and study to the +subject of driers. You now know whether you prefer sun, artificial +or fan drying. You have either made or bought some kind of a drier. +Little other equipment is needed.</p> +<p>A few good paring knives, some plates, and if possible some +cutting or slicing device to lighten the work of preparation are +all that are necessary. A sharp kitchen knife will serve every +purpose in slicing and cutting fruits for drying, if no other +device is at hand. The thickness of all slices of fruit should be +from an eighth to a quarter of an inch. Whether sliced or cut into +strips the pieces should be small, so as to dry quickly. They +should not, however, be so small as to make them hard to handle or +to keep them from being used to advantage in preparing dishes for +the table, such as would be prepared from fresh products. Berries +are dried whole. Apples, quinces, peaches and pears dry better if +cut into halves, rings or quarters.</p> +<p>Cleanliness is essential. A knife blade that is not bright and +clean will discolor the product on which it is used.</p> +<p>Winter apples should be chosen for drying when possible, as +sweet apples and early varieties are not so well adapted to the +purpose. The Northern Spy, the Baldwin and the Ben Davis give a +good-flavored dried product. Most early varieties lack sufficient +firmness of texture for the best results. On the other hand, some +comparatively early kinds, such as Gravenstein and Porter, are +considerably prized in some sections.</p> +<p>To prepare them for drying, apples are peeled, cored, trimmed +and sliced one quarter of an inch thick. Be sure to cut out all +worm holes, decayed spots and other blemishes. Defects are easily +cut out with an ordinary straight-back, sharp-pointed knife having +a blade two and a half to three inches long.</p> +<p>To prevent discoloration, as fast as the fruit is prepared dip +it into a weak salt solution—three level teaspoonfuls of salt +to one gallon of water. After all the apples are prepared, remove +surplus moisture and put on trays, water-bath drier or whatever +device you are using.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO REGULATE THE HEAT</b></p> +<p>Start with the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually +raise it to 130 degrees and do the drying at that temperature. It +is important to know the degree of heat in the drier, and this +cannot be determined very accurately except by using a thermometer. +Inexpensive oven thermometers can be bought or an ordinary +thermometer can be suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not +used the greatest care should be given to the regulation of the +heat. The temperature in the drier rises rather quickly and the +product may scorch unless close attention is given to it.</p> +<p>The reason sun drying is popularly believed to give fruits and +vegetables a sweeter flavor probably is that in the sun they never +are scorched, whereas in the oven or over a stove scorching is +likely to happen unless one is very careful. An oven or dairy +thermometer is a good investment. If you do not have a thermometer +test the heat by the air feeling warm to the hand. The product +should never be so hot that it cannot be grasped in the hand. In +order to prevent the fruit from burning where artificial heat is +used and to keep it from sticking to the drier by remaining in +contact with it too long, stir the fruit occasionally. To insure +the most uniform drying in sun drying, the fruit also should be +stirred occasionally.</p> +<p>Remember that if trays with metal bottoms are used for drying, +they should be covered with cheesecloth to prevent acid action. +Oven racks may be covered with either cheesecloth or heavy wrapping +paper.</p> +<p>The interval between stirring varies with the type of drier +used, with the condition of the fruit and with the degree of heat +maintained. Make the first stirring within two hours after the +drying is begun. After that examine the product from time to time +and stir often enough to prevent scorching or sticking and to +insure uniform drying. Use a wooden paddle for stirring. Where +several trays or racks are placed one above the other, it is +necessary to shift the trays from time to time, so the upper tray +goes to the bottom and the bottom tray to the top.</p> +<p>The time necessary for drying fruit depends upon several +factors: The type and construction of the drier; the depth to which +the fruit is spread; the method of preparing, whether sliced, +quartered or whole; the temperature maintained; and weather +conditions, whether bright and sunny or cloudy and damp.</p> +<p>If the atmosphere is heavy and damp the drying is retarded. +Under some conditions it is hardly possible thoroughly to dry +fruit.</p> +<p>There is possibly no step in the entire drying process that +requires better-trained judgment than the matter of knowing when +the fruit is sufficiently dried. A little experience will soon +teach this.</p> +<p>The fruit should be so dry that when a handful of slices is +pressed together firmly into a ball the slices will be "springy" +enough to separate at once upon being released from the hand. No +fruit should have any visible moisture on the surface. As the dried +apples, pears, peaches and apricots are handled they should feel +soft and velvety to the touch and have a pliable texture. You do +not want fruit so dry that it will rattle. If fruits are brittle +you have dried them too much.</p> +<p>After the apples and all other fruits are dried they must go +through another process, called "conditioning." The best way to +"condition" fruits is to place them in boxes or cans and pour them +from one container into another once a day for three or four +successive days. By doing this you mix the fruit thoroughly and +give to the whole mass an even degree of moisture. Pieces that are +too dry will absorb moisture from those that are too moist.</p> +<p>You may lose a whole bag or jar of dried products if you neglect +the conditioning, for if one moist piece goes into that bag all is +lost. Moisture breeds mold and mold means decay.</p> +<p>Ask yourself these questions: "Do I ever lose any dried +products? Are my dried products when soaked and cooked as near like +the original fruit as possible?" If you lose products and if your +dried fruits are tasteless you had better start the conditioning +process. For with this one step added to your drying you need lose +no dried products, and you need not dry the fruits to the brittle +stage, as you must of necessity do when you put them away +immediately.</p> +<p>After you have poured the dried products back and forth every +day for three or four days as an additional precaution, reheat the +dried fruit to 140 degrees just long enough—about thirty +minutes—to allow the heat to penetrate throughout the +product.</p> +<p>Two kinds of moths stand out prominently among insects that +attack dried fruits and vegetables. They are much more likely to +get into the fruit during the process of drying than to find their +way through boxes into the stored products. This applies +particularly to drying in the sun. The Indian-meal moth is the most +destructive of these insects. It is about three-eighths of an inch +long and has a cloaked appearance, one-third gray and the rest +copper-brown. The fig moth is about the same size, but dark, +neutral gray. A minute, flattened chocolate-brown beetle usually +accompanies these moths and does considerable damage. Both of the +moths deposit their eggs on fruit when it is on the drying +racks—usually at dusk or after dark, for these insects are +not fond of daylight.</p> +<p>It takes from three to ten days for the eggs to hatch into +whitish or pinkish grublike caterpillars, and from five to ten +weeks from the laying of the eggs before more moths appear to lay +another lot of eggs. A number of "broods" or generations are +produced yearly, so if a few of these moth eggs are stored away on +dried fruits or vegetables hundreds of caterpillars are produced +and many pounds of valuable material may be destroyed during the +winter if the products are stored in a warm room. Dried fruits +stored in warm, dark bins or in sacks offer especially favorable +places for the development of these destructive moths.</p> +<p>It is evident that the larger the package, the greater the +chance of a few eggs doing much damage. Small cartons or containers +confine the injury from these moths to small quantities of +material; for if the containers are closed tightly the insects +cannot easily escape from them and infest other packages which may +not have been infested previously.</p> +<p>If you are drying by sun and the products are not thoroughly dry +at night, finish the process on the stove. If you desire to carry +it over to the next day screen the drying racks early in the +evening and fasten down the cheesecloth. With these precautions and +with proper storage, no danger ordinarily need be feared from these +insects. The additional precaution of heating the dried product to +140 degrees for thirty minutes sterilizes it if already +infested.</p> +<p>Though not necessary, tin cans or glass jars make good +receptacles for storage of dried fruits or vegetables. Pasteboard +boxes with tight covers, stout paper bags and patented paraffin +paper cartons also afford ample protection for dried products when +protected from insects and rodents. The dried products must be +protected from outside moisture, and will keep best in a cool, dry, +well-ventilated place. These conditions, however, are difficult to +obtain in the more humid regions, and there moisture-tight +containers should be used. If a small amount of dried product is +put in each receptacle, just enough for one or two meals, it will +not be necessary to open a container, the contents of which cannot +be consumed in a short time. If a paper bag is used the upper part +should be twisted into a neck, bent over and tied tightly with a +string. A further precaution is to place the small bags in a tin +container with a tightly fitting cover, such as an ordinary lard +can. All bags should bear a label.</p> +<p>Pears and quinces usually are prepared and dried exactly as are +apples. Pears are attractive when cut lengthwise into halves, with +the stem and calyx removed but the core left in. Or they may be +quartered. If sliced like apples the drying period is +shortened.</p> +<p>Peaches usually are dried unpeeled, but they are better if +peeled before drying. The first step in the preparation of peaches +is to split them open to remove the pit. To do this, cut completely +round the peach in the line of the suture with a sharp knife. The +cut must be complete, for tearing of the flesh will make the +finished product less attractive. If the fruit is to be peeled the +paring should be done before it is cut open to remove the pit.</p> +<p>To facilitate the removal of the skin, dip the peaches in a +kettle of boiling water for one and a half minutes; then plunge +directly into cold water, after which the skins can be easily +slipped off. After the pit has been removed, lay on drier pit side +up. The juice of the fruit will collect in the pit or "cup" and +will add to the flavor and quality of the dried peaches. The +peaches can be cut into smaller pieces if you wish to lessen the +drying period.</p> +<p>Plums and apricots are not peeled, but are cut into halves, the +pits removed and dried in the same way as peaches. Small, +thin-fleshed varieties of plums are not suitable for drying.</p> +<p>When drying cherries always remove the stems. The pits may or +may not be removed. The best product for later cooking or eating +has the pit removed, though large quantities of juices are lost in +the pitting unless you provide some way of saving and utilizing +it.</p> +<p>A prune is simply a plum having certain qualities not possessed +by all plums. All prunes are plums, but not all plums are prunes. +The final test as to whether a plum is a prune is the ability to +dry without fermenting with the pit still remaining in the fruit. +If a plum cannot dry without fermentation unless the pit is +removed, it is not a prune. Prunes for drying, like other fruits, +should be fully ripe.</p> +<p>Prunes are merely washed and then dried without removing the +pits. The fruit is dry when the skin is well shrunken. The texture +should be firm but springy and pliable enough to yield readily when +pressed in the hand. The drying should not be continued until the +individual prunes rattle as they are brought in contact with one +another in handling. Prunes must be conditioned before storing.</p> +<p>In drying, prunes shrink about two-thirds in weight—that +is, for every three pounds of fresh fruit you get one pound of +finished product.</p> +<p>Smaller fruits, such as red and black raspberries, blackberries, +huckleberries, dewberries, strawberries and blueberries, are simply +washed and then put to dry. Berries must not be dried too hard; if +too much moisture is removed they will not resume their original +form when soaked in water. But the material must be dried +sufficiently or it will mold. Haven't you often tasted extremely +seedy dried berries? They were dried until they rattled. Stop the +drying as soon as the berries fail to stain the hand when +pressed.</p> +<p>To obtain the most satisfactory results soft fruits should be +only one layer deep on the drying trays.</p> +<p>Fruits contain about 80 to 95 per cent water and when dried +sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per cent of water, so it is +a good plan to weigh before and after drying. The product should +lose from two-thirds to four-fifths of its weight.</p> +<br> +<p><b>STEPS IN FRUIT DRYING</b></p> +<p>1. Thoroughly cleanse the product.</p> +<p>2. Prepare the product by slicing and so on.</p> +<p>3. Spread on trays; put in oven or put on commercial drier.</p> +<p>4. Stir occasionally.</p> +<p>5. Shift trays.</p> +<p>6. Test for completeness of drying.</p> +<p>7. "Condition" for three or four days. Sweet fruits may contain +more moisture without spoiling than those of low sugar content.</p> +<p>8. Heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for thirty minutes, to kill +all insects.</p> +<p>9. Pack immediately in available receptacles.</p> +<p>10. Label and store.</p> +<br> +<p><b>FRUIT PASTES</b></p> +<p>Fruit pastes are delicious and can be dried.</p> +<p>1. Select, wash, prepare fruit.</p> +<p>2. Cook until soft; stir.</p> +<p>3. Add sugar to sweeten.</p> +<p>4. Continue cooking until very thick.</p> +<p>5. Spread out flat by spoonfuls on oiled paper.</p> +<p>6. Dry in slow oven; finish drying over kitchen range.</p> +<p>7. Turn from time to time like griddle cakes.</p> +<p>Nuts of all kinds can be dried in these cakes, which may be left +whole or cut in strips with scissors.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANDIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES</b></p> +<p>1. Select product of uniform size and ripeness.</p> +<p>2. Wash; prepare in usual way.</p> +<p>3. Cut fruit in halves, quarters or smaller sections; cut +vegetables in narrow strips two and a half inches long.</p> +<p>4. Drop in a sirup cooked until it spins a thread. To prepare +ginger sirup, add a few roots of ginger to the sirup.</p> +<p>5. Cook until transparent.</p> +<p>6. Drain.</p> +<p>7. Dry in slow oven; Finish drying over kitchen range.</p> +<p>8. Roll in granulated sugar. (May be omitted for fruits.)</p> +<br> +<p>This method is recommended especially for candied apples, +peaches, pears and carrots.</p> +<p>In a properly constructed sun drier, all fruits will dry in from +3 to 12 hours, under normal summer conditions. Time depends on +dryness of atmosphere, sunshine and wind. Products dried in a sun +drier, no matter how crude, are superior to those dried in the open +without protection of some kind. Products dry more rapidly in high +altitudes than at sea level.</p> +<p>Racks in oven can be used. Plates or platters can be used in +oven. A stove drier hung over the stove can be used. A water-bath +or other commercial drier can be used with the stove.</p> +<br> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING FRUITS</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PRODUCT</td> +<td align='left'>PREPARATION</td> +<td align='left'>ARTIFICIAL HEAT<br> +TIME IN HOURS<br> +TEMPERATURE<br> +110° TO 130° F.</td> +<td align='left'>FAN—NO HEAT<br> +APPROXIMATE<br> +TIME IN HOURS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apples</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick. Drop +in salt solution, 3 level teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of water to +prevent discoloration.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Apricots</td> +<td align='left'>Remove pits, but do not peel. Cut into halves and +dry, "cup" side up.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berries, All Kinds</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; stem or hull.</td> +<td align='left'>4-5</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cherries</td> +<td align='left'>Remove stems. Pit or not, as desired. If pitted, +save and utilize juice.</td> +<td align='left'>2-4</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pears</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick. Or +peel, cut in halves lengthwise; remove stems and calyx.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Peaches</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, remove stones; cut in halves or smaller +pieces. If in halves, lay pit or "cup" side up to retain +juice.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Plums</td> +<td align='left'>Do not peel, but remove pits. Cut in halves and +dry, "cup" side up.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Prunes</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; do not pit.</td> +<td align='left'>5-7</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Quinces</td> +<td align='left'>Peel, core, trim and slice ¼" thick.</td> +<td align='left'>4-6</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Rhubarb</td> +<td align='left'>Select young stems. Wash and cut into ½" +pieces, using very sharp knife. Do not remove skins, so the rhubarb +will retain pink color.</td> +<td align='left'>6-8</td> +<td align='left'>24-36</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIV' id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> +<h3>HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>Vegetable drying is a little more complicated than fruit drying, +just as vegetable canning is more complicated than fruit canning. +Blanching is an important part of the operation. It makes vegetable +drying satisfactory as well as easy and simple, just as it makes +vegetable canning possible.</p> +<p>However, there is one difference between blanching vegetables +for canning and blanching them for drying. After repeated +experiments it has been found that for drying purposes it is best +to blanch all vegetables in steam rather than in boiling water. In +vegetable canning we blanch almost all vegetables in boiling water, +usually steaming only the members of the "green" family.</p> +<p>So remember that for drying all vegetables are blanched in +steam. To do this steaming you can use your ordinary household +steamer, such as you use for steaming brown breads and suet +puddings, or you can simply place a colander over boiling water in +a kettle. Do not allow the colander to touch the water. If you are +fortunate enough to possess a pressure cooker, steam the vegetables +for drying in it.</p> +<p>Blanching is necessary for many reasons. It removes the strong +flavors, objectionable to many people. Beans, cabbage, turnips and +onions have too strong a flavor if dried without blanching. +Furthermore, it starts the color to flowing, just as it does in +canning. It removes the sticky coating round vegetables. Most +vegetables have a protective covering to prevent evaporation. The +removal of this covering by blanching facilitates drying. Blanching +also relaxes the tissues, drives out the air and improves the +capillary attraction, and as a result the drying is done in a much +shorter period. Products dry less rapidly when the texture is firm +and the tissue contains air.</p> +<p>Blanching checks the ripening processes. The ripening process is +destroyed by heating and this is to be desired for drying +purposes.</p> +<p>Blanching kills the cells and thus prevents the hay-like flavor +so often noticed in unblanched products. It prevents changes after +drying, which otherwise will occur unless the water content is +reduced to about five per cent.</p> +<p>Thorough blanching makes the product absolutely sanitary; no +insect eggs exist after blanching and cold-dipping.</p> +<p>There is one precaution that must be followed: Do not blanch too +long. Blanching too long seems to break down the cell structure, so +that the product cannot be restored to its original color, shape or +size. Follow the blanching time-table for drying just as carefully +as you follow the blanching time-table for canning.</p> +<p>After the blanching comes the cold-dip. For the benefit of new +canning and drying enthusiasts, let me explain that by "cold-dip" +we mean plunging the product immediately into a pan of very cold +water or holding it under the cold-water faucet until the product +is thoroughly cooled. Do not let the product stand in cold water, +as it would then lose more food value and absorb too much +water.</p> +<p>You can cold-dip the product without removing it from the +colander, strainer or steamer in which it is steamed. Plunge the +vessel containing the product into the cold water.</p> +<p>The cold-dipping checks the cooking, sets the coloring matter +which was started to flowing in the blanching process, and it makes +the product much easier to handle.</p> +<p>Let us now see just exactly what we must do when we want to dry +sweet corn, more of which is dried than of any other vegetable. All +other vegetables are dried in the same way as is corn, the only +difference being in the length of the blanching and drying +period.</p> +<p>All vegetables are prepared for drying just as they are prepared +for table use. When drying corn select ears that are young and +tender, and if possible freshly gathered. Products for drying +should be in the same perfect condition as you have them for table +use. If wilted and old it is not worth while drying them.</p> +<p>Remove the husks and the silk, and steam—on the +cob—for fifteen minutes. This sets the milk, besides doing +many other things which blanching by steam always does. After the +steaming, cold-dip the corn, and then cut it from the cob, using a +very sharp and flexible knife. Cut the grains fine, but only +halfway down to the cob; scrape out the remainder of the grains, +being careful not to scrape off any of the chaff next to the +cob.</p> +<p>When field corn is used, the good, plump cooking stage is the +proper degree of ripeness for satisfactory drying.</p> +<p>The corn should be thoroughly drained as this facilitates +drying. You can easily remove all surface moisture by placing the +corn between two towels and patting them.</p> +<p>It is now ready for drying. The corn may be dried in the sun, +but if so, it is advisable first to dry it in the oven for ten or +fifteen minutes and then finish the drying in the sun. Never +attempt sun drying in moist weather. The corn may be dried by +artificial heat, either on top of the stove or in the oven, using +either plates, oven-racks properly covered, or any commercial +dryer.</p> +<p>Work quickly after the blanching and cold-dipping and get the +corn heated as quickly as possible in order to prevent souring. You +get "flat-sour" often when canning if you do not work quickly +enough, and you will get sour vegetables in drying if you work too +slowly.</p> +<p>Where artificial heat is used begin at a lower temperature and +gradually increase it. As the corn is drying, stir it from time to +time and readjust the trays if necessary.</p> +<p>After the drying comes the test to determine whether or not the +corn is sufficiently dry. Vegetables at this point differ from +fruits. Fruits are dried only until leathery, whereas vegetables +are dried until they are bone-dry. They must crackle and snap.</p> +<p>This test is sometimes used to see if the product is +sufficiently dry: Put some of it in a covered glass jar with a +crisp soda cracker and keep them there for a few hours. If the +cracker loses its crispness and becomes soft and damp there is +still too much moisture in the product and it should be dried a +little longer to obtain the degree of dryness required.</p> +<p>After the corn is bone-dry it should, like all other vegetables +and fruits, be conditioned. This means to pour them from one bag or +box to another, once a day for three or four days. This enables you +to notice any moisture that may be left in the dried food. Foods +that show any traces of moisture should be returned to the drying +tray for a short time.</p> +<p>Notice Lima beans particularly, as they require a longer +conditioning period than most vegetables.</p> +<p>After the conditioning, in order to kill all insects and destroy +all eggs, it is advisable to place the vegetables on trays and heat +them in an oven for half an hour at a temperature of 140 degrees +Fahrenheit. Store directly from the oven.</p> +<p>Dried vegetables are stored just as are dried fruits—in +cans, cracked jars that cannot be used for canning, fiber +containers, cheesecloth, paper bags or paraffin containers.</p> +<p>In storing your dried products keep in mind these things: +Protection from moisture, insects, rats, mice, dust and light. If +you observe all these things it is unnecessary to have air-tight +containers.</p> +<p>All varieties of string beans can be dried, but only those fit +for table use should be used. Old, stringy, tough beans will remain +the same kind of beans when dried. There are two ways of preparing +string, wax or snap beans for drying:</p> +<p>1. Wash; remove stem, tip and string. Cut or break into pieces +one-half to one inch long; blanch three to ten minutes, according +to age and freshness, in steam; cold-dip. Place on trays or dryer. +If you have a vegetable slicer it can be used for slicing the +beans.</p> +<p>2. Prepare as above, then blanch the whole beans. After +cold-dipping, thread them on coarse, strong thread, making long +"necklaces" of them; hang them above the stove or out of doors +until dry.</p> +<p>Lima beans should be shelled from the pod and then blanched two +to five minutes if young and tender. If larger and more mature +blanch five to ten minutes.</p> +<p>Okra is blanched for three minutes. If the pods are young and +small, dry them whole. Older pods should be cut into quarter-inch +slices. Small tender pods are sometimes strung on stout thread and +hung up to dry.</p> +<p>Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, removing the +seed, drying in the air, and finishing the drying in the dryer at +130 degrees Fahrenheit. A more satisfactory method is to place +peppers in a biscuit pan in the oven and heat until the skins +blister; or to steam them until the skin softens, peel, split in +half, take out seed, and dry at 110 to 130 degrees. In drying +thick-fleshed peppers like the pimento, do not increase heat too +quickly, but dry slowly and evenly.</p> +<p>Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until +wilted and the drying finished in the dryer, or they may be dried +entirely in the sun.</p> +<p>Peppers often are dried whole. If large they can be strung on +thread; if small the whole plant can be hung up to dry.</p> +<p>Shell full-grown peas and blanch three to five minutes; cold-dip +and then spread in a single layer on trays to dry.</p> +<p>When drying the very tender young sugar peas, use the pod also. +Wash and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Blanch six minutes, cold-dip +and remove surplus moisture before drying. When drying beets always +select young, quickly grown, tender beets. Steam twenty to thirty +minutes, or until the skin cracks. Dip in cold water, peel and +slice into one-eighth to one-quarter inch slices. Then dry.</p> +<p>Carrots having a large, woody core should not be dried. Blanch +six minutes; cold-dip. Carrots are often sliced lengthwise into +pieces about one-eighth inch thick. Parsnips, kohl-rabi, celeriac +and salsify are prepared in the same way as are carrots.</p> +<p>Onions should be held under water while peeling and slicing to +avoid smarting of the eyes. They should be sliced into one-eighth +to one-quarter inch slices. Blanch five minutes, cold-dip, remove +superfluous moisture and dry. Leeks are handled as are onions.</p> +<p>Select well-developed heads of cabbage and remove all loose +outside leaves. Split the cabbage, remove the hard, woody core and +slice the remainder of the head with a kraut slicer or cutter or +with a large, sharp knife. Blanch five to ten minutes and cold-dip; +dry.</p> +<p>Spinach and parsley should be carefully washed. Steam, cold-dip +and dry. If the spinach is sliced the drying will be greatly +facilitated. Beet tops, Swiss chard and celery are prepared like +spinach.</p> +<p>Select sound, well-matured Irish potatoes. Wash and boil or +steam until nearly done. Peel and pass through a meat grinder or a +potato ricer. Collect the shred in layers on a tray and dry until +brittle. If toasted slightly in an oven when dry, the flavor is +improved somewhat; or boil or steam until nearly done, peel, cut +into quarter-inch slices, spread on trays, and dry until brittle. +Peeling may be omitted, but the product will be very much inferior +in flavor. Irish potatoes cannot be satisfactorily dried unless +they are first cooked; otherwise they will discolor.</p> +<p>All root vegetables must be thoroughly cleaned, otherwise an +earthy flavor may cling to them. One decayed root may seriously +affect several pots of vegetable soup.</p> +<br> +<p><b>GENERAL SUGGESTIONS</b></p> +<p>1. All vegetables should be completely dried in from two to +twenty-four hours.</p> +<p>2. Materials should be turned or stirred several times to secure +a uniform product.</p> +<p>3. If heat is used guard against scorching. The door is left +open if an oven is used; the temperature should be about 110 +degrees at the beginning and usually should not exceed 130 degrees. +Onions, string beans and peas will yellow at more than 140 +degrees.</p> +<p>4. A thermometer is essential to successful drying by artificial +heat.</p> +<p>5. It is impossible to give definite lengths of times for the +completion of sun drying, as this varies not only with different +products but with the weather. A sultry, rainy day is the worst for +drying.</p> +<p>6. Vegetables should be stone dry.</p> +<p>7. Succulent vegetables and fruits contain from 80 to 95 per +cent of water, and when dried sufficiently still retain from 15 to +20 per cent; so it is a good plan to weigh before and after drying +as a check. The product should lose from two-thirds to four-fifths +of its weight.</p> +<p>8. Work rapidly to prevent souring of vegetables.</p> +<p>9. Small vegetables, mature beans and peas and small onions may +be dried whole. Larger vegetables should be cut up so as to expose +more surface for drying.</p> +<p>10. The slicing, cutting and shredding should be done before +blanching, with the exception of corn, which is cut from the cob +after blanching.</p> +<br> +<h3>TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING VEGETABLES</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PRODUCT</td> +<td align='left'>PREPARATION</td> +<td align='left'>BLANCHING BY STEAM, TIME ON MINUTES</td> +<td align='left'>ARTIFICIAL HEAT TEMPERATURE 110° TO 130° +F. APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS</td> +<td align='left'>FAN—NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>ASPARAGUS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash and cut into pieces</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>4 to 8</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEANS, GREEN STRING</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; remove stem, tip and string</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEANS, WAX</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; remove stem, tip and string; cut into pieces +or dry whole</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BEETS</td> +<td align='left'>Leave skin on while steaming</td> +<td align='left'><a href='#Footnote_1_5'>[1]</a>20 to 30</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>BRUSSELS SPROUTS</td> +<td align='left'>Divide into small pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CABBAGE</td> +<td align='left'>Remove all loose outside leaves; split cabbage and +remove woody core; slice or shred</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CARROTS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; slice lengthwise into pieces ⅛-inch +thick</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CAULIFLOWER</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; divide into small bunches</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CELERY</td> +<td align='left'>Wash carefully and remove leaves; slice</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CELERIAC</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; slice into ⅛-inch pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>CORN, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Blanch on cob. From 12 ears of corn you should +obtain 1 pound dried corn</td> +<td align='left'>15</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>2 days</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>KOHL-RABI</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; slice into ⅛-inch pieces</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>8 to 12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LEEKS</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into ½-inch strips</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>8 to 12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LIMA BEANS (YOUNG)</td> +<td align='left'>Shell</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>LIMA BEANS (OLD)</td> +<td align='left'>Shell</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 10</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>MUSHROOMS</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; cut into pieces</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>OKRA</td> +<td align='left'>Dry young pods whole. Cut old pods in +¼-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>ONIONS</td> +<td align='left'>Remove outside papery covering; cut off tops and +roots; slice thin</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PARSNIPS</td> +<td align='left'>Clean; pare; cut into ½-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PEAS</td> +<td align='left'>Can be dried whole or put through grinder</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 5</td> +<td align='left'>3½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PEPPERS</td> +<td align='left'>Skin blistered in oven, steamed or +sun-withered</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, IRISH</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and rice them</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>2½</td> +<td align='left'>5 to 6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, IRISH</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and slice them ¼-inch thick</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and rice them</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>2½</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>POTATOES, SWEET</td> +<td align='left'>Cook and slice them ¼-inch thick</td> +<td align='left'>..</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 20</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>PUMPKINS AND SQUASH</td> +<td align='left'>Cut into ⅓-inch strips; peel; remove +seeds</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SPINACH</td> +<td align='left'>Wash thoroughly; can be sliced</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SALSIFY</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; cut into ½-inch slices</td> +<td align='left'>6</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>20 to 24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>SWISS CHARD</td> +<td align='left'>Wash thoroughly; can be sliced</td> +<td align='left'>3</td> +<td align='left'>3 to 4</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>TOMATOES</td> +<td align='left'>Wash; slice after steaming to loosen skin</td> +<td align='left'>2 to 3</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>TURNIPS</td> +<td align='left'>Pare and slice thin</td> +<td align='left'>5</td> +<td align='left'>2½ to 3</td> +<td align='left'>12 to 18</td> +</tr> +</table> +<a name='Footnote_1_5' id="Footnote_1_5"></a> +<p>[1] Till skin cracks.</p> +<p>In a properly constructed sun drier vegetables will dry in from +3 to 12 hours under normal summer conditions. Products dried in a +sun drier are superior to those dried in the open without any +protection. Products dry more quickly in high altitudes than at sea +level.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XV' id="CHAPTER_XV"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XV</h2> +<h3>EVERY STEP IN BRINING</h3> +<br> +<p>We have learned how to preserve fruit and vegetables by canning +and drying and now we are going to learn another method to preserve +foods, in which salt is used. We use this salt method for +vegetables. It is not adapted to fruits. We may pickle apples, +pears and peaches, but we ferment, brine and dry-salt only +vegetables.</p> +<p>This salt method is not a substitute for drying or canning, but +just an additional method we may employ. Every thrifty housewife of +to-day wants her shelves of canned foods, her boxes of dried foods +and her crocks of salted foods. Each kind has its proper function +to perform in the household. One cannot take the place of the +other.</p> +<p>For women on the farm salting is a salvation. In busy seasons +when canning and drying seem an impossibility, a great many +vegetables can be saved by this method in a very short time. The +labor required is very small, as no cooking is necessary. A good +supply of salt is the one necessity.</p> +<p>Besides the saving of time, salting saves jars, which are +absolutely necessary in canning. Old containers can be used if they +are thoroughly cleansed. The vegetables can be put in any +container, so long as it holds water and is not made of metal. +Metal containers should not be used. Old kegs, butter and lard tubs +if water-tight, stoneware jars or crocks, chipped preserve jars, +glass jars with missing covers and covered enamel buckets can all +be utilized. Avoid using tubs made of pitch or soft pine unless +coated with melted paraffin, as they impart a flavor to the +vegetables. Maple is the best.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THREE METHODS OF SALTING FOOD</b></p> +<p>There are three ways of preserving food by salting: First, +fermentation with dry salting; second, fermentation in brine or +brining; and third, salting without fermentation, or dry +salting.</p> +<p><b>Dry Salting.</b> Fermentation with dry salting consists in +packing the material with a small amount of salt. No water is used, +for the salt will extract the water from the vegetables and this +forms a brine. This is the simplest process of all three and is +used mostly for cabbage. To make sauerkraut proceed as follows: The +outside green leaves of the cabbage should be removed, just as in +preparing the head for boiling. Never use any decayed or bruised +leaves. Quarter the heads and shred the cabbage very finely. There +are shredding machines on the market, but if one is not available +use a slaw cutter or a large sharp knife.</p> +<p>After the cabbage is shredded pack at once into a clean barrel, +keg or tub, or into an earthenware crock holding four or five +gallons. The smaller containers are recommended for household use. +When packing distribute the salt as uniformly as possible, using +one pound of salt to forty pounds of cabbage. Sprinkle a little +salt in the container and put in a layer of three or four inches of +shredded cabbage, then pack down with a wooden utensil like a +potato masher. Repeat with salt, cabbage and packing until the +container is full or the shredded cabbage is all used.</p> +<p>Press the cabbage down as tightly as possible and apply a cloth, +and then a glazed plate or a board cover which will go inside the +holder. If using a wooden cover select wood free from pitch, such +as basswood. On top of this cover place stone, bricks or other +weights—use flint or granite; avoid the use of limestone, +sandstone or marble. These weights serve to keep vegetables beneath +the surface of the liquid. The proportion of salt to food when +fermenting with dry salt is a quarter pound of salt to ten pounds +of food. Do not use more, for the product will taste too salty.</p> +<p>Allow fermentation to proceed for ten days or two weeks, if the +room is warm. In a cellar or other cool place three to five weeks +may be required. Skim off the film which forms when fermentation +starts and repeat this daily if necessary to keep this film from +becoming a scum. When gas bubbles cease to rise when you strike the +side of the container, fermentation is complete. If there is a scum +it should be removed.</p> +<p>As a final step pour very hot melted paraffin over the brine +until it forms a layer from a quarter to a half-inch thick, to +prevent the formation of the scum which occurs if the weather is +warm or the storage place is not well cooled. The cabbage may be +used as soon as the bubbles cease to rise. If scum forms and +remains the cabbage will spoil. You may can the cabbage as soon as +bubbles cease to rise and fermentation is complete. To can, fill +jars, adjust rubbers and partly seal. Sterilize 120 minutes in +hot-water bath, or 60 minutes in steam-pressure outfit at five to +ten pounds pressure.</p> +<p>The vital factor in preserving the material by this method is +the lactic acid which develops in fermentation.</p> +<p>If the vegetables are covered with a very strong brine or are +packed with a fairly large amount of salt, lactic acid fermentation +and also the growth of other forms of bacteria and molds are +prevented. This method of preservation is especially applicable to +those vegetables which contain so little sugar that sufficient +lactic acid cannot be formed by bacterial action to insure their +preservation.</p> +<p>In the well-known method of vinegar pickling the acetic acid of +the vinegar acts as a preservative like the lactic acid produced by +fermentation. Sometimes brining precedes pickling in vinegar, and +often the pickling is modified by the addition of sugar and spices, +which add flavor as well as helping to preserve the fruit or +vegetables. In some cases olive oil or some other table oil is +added to the vinegar, as in the making of oil cucumber pickles.</p> +<p>Besides sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, +greens, kale and dandelions are adapted for fermentation with dry +salting. String beans should be young, tender and not overgrown. +Remove the tip ends and strings; cut or break into pieces about two +inches long. Wash the beet and turnip tops as well as all greens, +in order to remove dirt and grit. Weigh all products that are to be +salted.</p> +<p>For salting, a supply of ordinary fine salt, which can be +purchased in bulk for about two cents a pound, is most satisfactory +for general use. Table salt will do very well, but it is rather +expensive if large quantities of vegetables are to be preserved. +The rather coarse salt—known in the trade as "ground alum +salt"—which is used in freezing ice cream can be used. Rock +salt because of its coarseness and impurities should not be +used.</p> +<p>A weight must be used. The size of the weight depends on the +quantity of material being preserved. For a five-gallon keg a +weight of ten pounds will be sufficient, but if a larger barrel is +used a heavier weight will be needed. The weight should be +sufficient to extract the juices to form a brine, which will cover +the top in about twenty-four hours. If a brine does not form it may +be necessary to add more stones after the material has stood a +while.</p> +<p>There always will be more or less bubbling and foaming of the +brine during the first stages of fermentation. After this ceases a +thin film will appear which will rapidly spread over the whole +surface and quickly develop into a heavy, folded membrane. This +scum is a growth of yeast-like organisms which feed upon the acid +formed by fermentation. If allowed to grow undisturbed it will +eventually destroy all the acid and the fermented material will +spoil. To prevent mold from forming it is necessary to exclude the +air from the surface of the brine.</p> +<p>Perhaps the best method is to cover the surface—over the +board and round the weight—with very hot, melted paraffin. If +the paraffin is hot enough to make the brine boil when poured in, +the paraffin will form a smooth, even layer before hardening. Upon +solidifying, it forms an air-tight seal. Oils, such as cottonseed +oil or the tasteless liquid petroleum, may also be used for this +purpose. As a measure of safety with crocks, it is advisable to +cover the top with a cloth soaked in melted paraffin. Put the cover +in place before the paraffin hardens.</p> +<p>After sealing with paraffin the containers should be set where +they will not be disturbed until the contents are to be used. Any +attempt to remove them from one place to another may break the +paraffin seal and necessitate resealing.</p> +<p>Some vegetables which do not contain sufficient water are better +fermented by covering them with a weak brine. Those which are the +most satisfactory when fermented in this way are cucumbers, string +beans, green tomatoes, beets, beet tops, turnip tops, corn and +green peas. The general directions for this brining are as +follows:</p> +<p>Wash the vegetables, drain off the surplus water and pack them +in a keg, crock, or other utensil until it is nearly +full—within about three inches of the top of the vessel. +Prepare a weak brine as follows: To each gallon of water used add +one-half pint of vinegar and three-fourths of a cup of salt and +stir until the salt is entirely dissolved. The vinegar is used +primarily to keep down the growth of injurious bacteria until the +lactic-acid ferment starts, but it also adds to the flavor. Spices +may be added if desired.</p> +<p>The amount of brine necessary to cover the vegetables will be +equal to about one-half the volume of the material to be fermented. +For example, if a five-gallon keg is to be packed, two and one-half +gallons will be needed. It is best to make up at one time all the +brine needed on one day. A clean tub or barrel can be used for +mixing the brine. Pour the brine over the vegetables and cover. Set +the vessel and its contents away in a moderately warm room to +ferment.</p> +<p>When fermentation ceases, the container should be placed in a +cool cellar or storeroom and the surface of the liquid treated to +prevent mold. Before adding the paraffin or cottonseed oil, any +scum or mold which may have formed on the surface of the liquid +should be removed by skimming.</p> +<p>These general directions can always be followed with successful +results, but some modifications are desirable for certain +vegetables.</p> +<p><b>Cucumbers—Dill Style.</b> To pickle cucumbers wash the +cucumbers and pack into a clean, water-tight barrel, keg or crock. +On the bottom of the barrel place a layer of dill weed and a +handful of mixed spice. Add another layer of dill and another +handful of spice when the barrel is half full, and when almost +full, add a third layer. If a keg or crock is used, the amount of +dill and spice can be reduced in proportion to the size of the +receptacle. When the container has been filled to within a few +inches of the top, add a layer of covering material—beet +leaves or grape leaves—about an inch thick. If any spoilage +should occur on the surface, this layer will protect the vegetables +beneath. Press down with a clean board weighted with bricks or +stone.</p> +<p>Make the brine as given in the general rules. Add sufficient +brine to cover the material and allow it to stand twenty-four +hours. Then make air-tight. The time necessary for complete +fermentation to occur depends upon the temperature. In a warm place +five days to a week may suffice; in a cool cellar three to four +weeks.</p> +<p>The dill and spices may be omitted, in which case we then have +plain cucumbers.</p> +<p><b>String Beans.</b> Remove the ends and strings from the beans +and cut into pieces about two inches long; pack in the container; +cover with brine and ferment.</p> +<p><b>Green Tomatoes.</b> Green tomatoes should be packed whole and +prepared as cucumbers. The dill and spice may be added if +desired.</p> +<p><b>Beets.</b> Beets must be scrubbed thoroughly and packed +whole. If peeled or sliced before being fermented the beets lose +considerable color and flavor.</p> +<p><b>Beet Tops and Turnip Tops.</b> These should be washed +thoroughly and packed into the container without being cut up.</p> +<p><b>Peas.</b> Green peas should be shelled and packed in the same +way as string beans. It is advisable to use fairly small containers +for peas, so that the quantity opened up will be used before it has +a chance to spoil.</p> +<p><b>Corn.</b> Husk and clean the silk from the corn; wash and +place the ears on end in the jar, packing the jar nearly full. Pour +the brine over the ears; add cover and weights. Fermented corn has +a sour taste, which may not be relished if the corn is eaten alone. +For this reason it will be preferable in most cases to preserve +corn by canning, drying or by salting without fermentation. +Fermented corn, however, may be used in the preparation of some +dishes, such as chowders, omelets, and so forth, where its flavor +will be masked to some extent by the other ingredients. To some +people this peculiar acid taste of fermented corn is not at all +objectionable.</p> +<p><b>Salting Without Fermentation.</b> In this method the +vegetables are packed with enough salt to prevent fermentation or +the growth of yeasts or molds. The vegetables preserved most +satisfactorily by this method are dandelions, beet tops, turnip +tops, spinach, kale, chard, cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, +green peas and corn. The following directions should be +followed:</p> +<p>The vegetables should be washed, drained and weighed. The amount +of salt needed will be a quarter of the weight of the vegetables. +Kegs or crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a layer of +vegetables about an inch thick on the bottom of the container. +Cover this with salt. Continue making alternate layers of +vegetables and salt until the container is almost filled. The salt +should be evenly distributed so that it will not be necessary to +use more salt than the quantity required in proportion to the +weights of the vegetables that are used.</p> +<p>Cover the surface with a cloth, and a board of glazed plate. +Place a weight on these and set aside in a cool place. If +sufficient liquor to cover the vegetables has not been extracted +pour in enough strong brine—one pound of salt to two quarts +of water—to cover the surface round the corner.</p> +<p>The top layer of vegetables should be kept under the brine to +prevent molding. There will be some bubbling at first. As soon as +this stops, set the container where it will not be disturbed until +ready for use. Seal by pouring very hot paraffin over the +surface.</p> +<p>String beans should be cut in two-inch pieces. Peas should be +shelled. Cabbage should be shredded in the same way as for +sauerkraut. Corn, however, requires somewhat different treatment, +and the directions for salting it are as follows:</p> +<p><b>Salted Corn.</b> Husk the ears of corn and remove the silk. +Cook in boiling water for about ten minutes to set the milk. Cut +off the corn from the cob with a sharp knife. Weigh the corn and +pack in layers with a quarter its weight of fine salt, as described +above.</p> +<p>Some experts insist on blanching and cold-dipping all vegetables +for dry-salting without fermentation. They say that, though it is +not necessary, it makes the tissues softer and consequently they +are more easily penetrated by the salt. Furthermore, when preparing +these products for the table the salt soaks out more readily and +the products cook much more quickly if they have been blanched. So +where there is time it seems advisable to blanch for five minutes +for dry-salting.</p> +<p>If properly prepared and stored, fermented, brined and +dry-salted products will keep for a long time. It is absolutely +necessary to prevent mold from growing on the surface of the brine +of fermented vegetables, by the addition of paraffin or in some +other way. Protection of the surface of dry-salted vegetables is +desirable, but not necessary if the containers are covered to +prevent the evaporation of the brine. Most trouble with the +fermented or salted products may be traced to carelessness in +protecting the surface of the brine.</p> +<br> +<p><b>POINTS TO REMEMBER</b></p> +<p>These are the special things to remember about fermentation, +brining and dry-salting:</p> +<p>1. For fermentation, such as in making sauerkraut, use a quarter +pound of salt to ten pounds of food material. For every 100 pounds +of food add two and a half pounds of salt.</p> +<p>2. For brining use three-quarters of a cupful of salt and one +cupful of vinegar to each gallon of water.</p> +<p>3. For dry-salting use one pound of salt to four pounds of +food.</p> +<p>4. Do not use vinegar, pickle or pork barrels as containers for +salted foods unless they are very thoroughly scalded.</p> +<p>5. Thoroughly scald all containers, covers, weights and cloths +before using.</p> +<p>6. If using glass jars put a cork inside to press the food down. +If white vaseline is rubbed on the rubber rings the solution will +not get through rubber and be lost.</p> +<p>7. After adding salt or brine for fermented foods, cover the +food material with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth six inches +larger in diameter than the diameter of the container. Tuck this in +round the top of the food, cover with weight and adjust lid of +container.</p> +<p>8. During fermentation keep the cover on loosely until all +bubbles cease. Test by slightly knocking container to see if any +bubbles appear on the surface.</p> +<p>9. When you have made this test and discovered that the bubbling +has ceased, then it is time to protect the food from all organisms +which destroy lactic acid.</p> +<p>10. To protect the food cover with hot melted paraffin or liquid +oil.</p> +<p>11. If evaporation takes place, add water or brine to make up +the original amount of water.</p> +<p>12. When dry sealing is used let the product stand twenty-four +to thirty-six hours, then add strong brine to fill the containers. +The water from the vegetables usually only half fills the +containers.</p> +<h3>TABLE FOR PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY SALT</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='left'>METHODS</td> +<td align='left'>VEGETABLES ADAPTED TO METHOD</td> +<td align='left'>AMOUNT OF SALT</td> +<td align='left'>OTHER INGREDIENTS NEEDED</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>I. Dry salting with fermentation.</td> +<td align='left'>Cabbage, which is converted by this method into +sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, greens, kale and +dandelions.</td> +<td align='left'>¼-lb. salt to 10 lbs. food or 2½ +lbs. salt to 100 lbs. food.</td> +<td align='left'>No other.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>II. Fermentation with brine.</td> +<td align='left'>Cucumbers, string beans, green tomatoes, beets, +beet tops, corn and green peas.</td> +<td align='left'>¾-cup salt, 1 gallon water, 1 cup vinegar +for brine. Amount of brine required is equal to ½ volume of +food.</td> +<td align='left'>Dill and spices can be added. 1 lb. dry dill or 2 +lbs. green dill and 1 oz. spices for a>4-gallon crock.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>III. Dry salting without fermentation.</td> +<td align='left'>Dandelions, beet tops, turnip tops, spinach, kale, +chard, cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, green peas, and +corn.</td> +<td align='left'>25 lbs. salt to 100 lbs. of food. Salt should be +¼ weight of vegetable.</td> +<td align='left'>Blanch and cold-dip vegetables for five minutes +before dry salting.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVI' id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVI</h2> +<h3>CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT</h3> +<br> +<p>Many farmers seem to have more trouble with the curing of meats +than with the slaughtering. This part of the work is indeed very +important as it determines whether one will have good tasting cured +meat or meat that is too salty or possibly that is far removed from +the original taste of the raw product.</p> +<p>It is worth every farmer or farmerette's attention to spend some +time on this problem as it pays so well in the resulting, good +tasting meat. Why not have a superior grade of home-cured meat as +easily as a poor grade? Work carefully and accurately done will +produce good results while work slovenly or carelessly done can +produce nothing but poor results. To cure meat so that it is not +only delicious but has good keeping qualities is an art and +accomplishment worth striving for. A pride in this work is just as +fine and worth while as the housewife's pride in her culinary skill +or the pride of any other professional in his or her line of work. +To-day we are thinking of food and its problems as never before and +it behooves us all to put more time, thought, care and skill on all +things that pertain to foods. And as meat is such an essential item +in our diet, meat problems should receive their due attention.</p> +<p>All meat that is to be cured should always be thoroughly cooled +and cut into the desired convenient sizes before it is put into the +brine or packed in dry salt.</p> +<p>The pieces most commonly used for curing are the ham, shoulder +and bacon pieces from pork. From beef we use the cheaper, tougher +cuts such as the plate, shoulder and chuck ribs. Mutton is seldom +cured and preserved.</p> +<p>The ham should be cut off at the hock joint, the spare ribs +taken out of the bacon, and the ragged edges trimmed off smooth. If +ragged edges or scraggy ends are left these portions will become +too dry in the curing and will practically be wasted.</p> +<p>After all the animal heat is removed from the meat and it is +properly cut it is then ready for the curing. If salt is put on the +meat before the animal heat is all removed, it will have a tendency +to shrink the muscles and form a coating on the outside which will +not allow the generating gases to escape. Meat should never be in a +frozen condition when the salt is added as the frost will prevent +the proper penetration of the brine and uneven curing will be the +result.</p> +<br> +<p><b>METHODS OF CURING MEAT</b></p> +<p>The two most common methods of curing meat are first the brine +or sugar cure process and second the dry-curing process. For +general farm use the brine cured process is the better. It requires +less time, less effort and not such an exacting place for the work. +On most farms it is impossible to secure a desirable place in which +to do the dry-curing as the meat is exposed to rats, cats, flies +and other insects. The dry-curing requires considerable time to rub +and salt the meat at different times while the only attention that +is necessary for brine-curing is to properly prepare and pack the +meat in the vessel and prepare the brine for it.</p> +<br> +<p><b>UTENSILS FOR CURING</b></p> +<p>If possible use a round container for the curing. It is easier +to put the meat in tightly, and the space can be used to better +advantage. A hardwood barrel of some kind is excellent. Sirup, +molasses or lard barrels which have been thoroughly cleaned are +very satisfactory. If you use a vinegar or an oil barrel it should +be well burned on the inside before using. Stone crocks or jars are +sometimes used but they are expensive and cumbersome to handle +besides the constant danger of loss of brine from breakage.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PRESERVATIVES</b></p> +<p>For curing the meat the farmer usually uses salt, salt peter, +white or brown sugar or molasses. These are the necessary +preservatives. The others such as boracic acid, borax and soda are +often used for sweetening the brine and to keep it from spoiling +but are not absolutely essential. The salt extracts moisture and +acts as a preservative. The sugar or molasses imparts a nice flavor +and has a tendency to keep the muscle tissue soft in contrast to +the salt, which has a tendency to make it hard and dry. So the salt +and sugar have two distinct functions to perform, the one to harden +and preserve, the other to soften and sweeten. If you have a +favorite recipe that has proved satisfactory and you want to use +sorghum or molasses instead of sugar add one pound more of the +molasses. If you have been accustomed to using 2 pounds of sugar +then use 3 pounds of the other sweetening.</p> +<p>Salt peter is not absolutely necessary as far as the preserving +is concerned but it helps to hold the red color of the lean meat. +If salt peter is not used the lean meat will be gray in color. It +may possibly be a little tenderer if the salt peter is not used as +the salt peter tends to harden the meat. Chili salt peter can be +substituted in place of salt peter, if only four-fifths as much is +used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE SUGAR BRINE CURE</b></p> +<p>All formulas for the sugar brine cure are practically the same +varying only a little in the proportions of sugar, salt and salt +peter. If you have a formula that you have tried for years and have +found it to be satisfactory there is no reason you should attempt a +new one. But for those who want to try a different formula or +recipe I will give you this reliable one that is widely used and +indorsed by several agricultural colleges.</p> +<p>The container should be scalded thoroughly. Sprinkle a layer of +salt over the bottom and over each layer of meat as it is packed +in, skin down. When full, cover meat with boards and weight down +with a stone so that all will be below the brine, which is made as +follows:</p> +<p>Weigh out for each 100 pounds of meat, 8 pounds of salt, 2 +pounds of sugar (preferably brown) or 3 pounds of molasses, and 2 +ounces of salt peter. Dissolve all in 4 gallons of water. This +should be boiled, and when thoroughly cooled, cover the meat. Seven +days after brine is put on, meat should be repacked in another +barrel in reverse order. The pieces that were on top should be +placed on the bottom. The brine is poured over as before. This is +repeated on the fourteenth and twenty-first days, thus giving an +even cure to all pieces. Bacon should remain in the brine from four +to six weeks, and hams six to eight weeks, depending on the size of +the pieces. When cured, each piece should be scrubbed with tepid +water and hung to drain several days before smoking; no two pieces +should come in contact. For all curing always use dairy salt and +<i>not table</i> salt, as the latter contains starch to keep it dry +and this starch may cause the meat to spoil. If you carefully +follow these directions you will have delicious sugar-cured hams +and bacon.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CORNED BEEF</b></p> +<p>It is desirable to have an ample supply of corned beef on hand. +For this any part of the beef may be used but the parts usually +selected are the plate, rump, cross-ribs and brisket, which are the +tougher cuts of the meat. The brisket and plate are especially good +because of the character of the fat, which is somewhat like a +tissue. Cut all around the meat to about the same thickness, so +that it will make an even layer in the barrel. It is best to remove +the bone, although this is not necessary. Be sure to start the +pickling or curing while the meat is perfectly fresh, but well +chilled. Do not wait like some farmers do until they think the meat +is beginning to spoil and then salt it down just to save it. Allow +ten pounds of dairy salt to each 100 pounds of meat. Sprinkle a +layer of the salt in the bottom of the crock, barrel, or whatever +container is used. Have the salt about one-fourth of an inch in +depth. After the layer is in the bottom of the container put the +cuts of meat in as closely as possible, making the layer five or +six inches in thickness, then put on another layer of salt, +following that with another layer of meat. Repeat until the meat +and salt have all been packed in the barrel, care being taken to +reserve salt enough for a good layer on the top. Cover the meat +with a board and weight down with a stone and <i>not</i> an +<i>iron</i> weight. Do not allow any meat to project from the salt +or mold will start and the brine will spoil in a short time. Let +the meat stand over-night.</p> +<p>Prepare a brine by boiling 7 pounds salt, 3 pounds brown sugar +or 6 pounds molasses, 2 ounces baking soda, 2 ounces salt peter and +4 gallons water for every 100 pounds of meat. This quantity of +brine should be sufficient to cover that amount.</p> +<p>Remove any scum that rises to the surface and filter the hot +brine through muslin. Set the brine aside, best over-night, to +become perfectly cold before using. In the morning tip the +container in which the meat is packed so that all liquor which has +separated from the meat over night may drain off. Cover the meat +with the cold brine. Put the container in a cool place. The curing +will be more satisfactory if the meat is left at a temperature of +about 38 degrees F. Never let the temperature go above 50 degrees +F. and there is some risk with even a temperature of 40 degrees F. +if it is continuous. The sugar or molasses in the brine has a +tendency to ferment in a warm place.</p> +<p>After about five days the meat should be overhauled and +repacked, putting the pieces which were previously on the bottom on +top. Pour back the same brine, and five days later repeat the +overhauling. This may seem like some trouble and possibly look like +a useless waste of time but it is well worth while as it insures a +more rapid and uniform curing of the meat.</p> +<p>When unpacking the meat watch the brine to see that it is not +ropy or moldy. If you find either condition existing remove the +meat and rinse each piece with cold water and after scalding the +container pack the meat as at first with a little salt. Scald and +skim the brine and after it is cold pour it on the meat as before. +You can use corned beef if necessary after a week in the cure, but +it is not thoroughly cured until it has been from 20 to 30 days in +the brine. If kept for sixty days it will be salty enough to need +freshening before cooking.</p> +<p>If the meat has been corned during the winter, and is to be kept +until summer, watch the brine closely during the spring as it is +more likely to spoil then than at any other time.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PLAIN SALT PORK</b></p> +<p>Rub each piece of meat with dairy salt, and pack closely in a +container. Let stand over-night. The next day weigh out ten pounds +of salt and two ounces of salt peter for each 100 pounds of meat, +and dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. Pour this brine, +when cold, over the meat, cover, and weight the meat down to keep +it under the brine. The pork should be kept in the brine until +used.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SMOKING CURED MEATS</b></p> +<p>Of course many farmers never attempt to smoke their cured meats +but use them directly from the brine but if possible it is more +satisfactory to smoke them before using for several reasons. First, +the process of smoking helps to preserve the meat. The creosote +formed by the combustion of the wood closes the pores of the meat +to a great extent thus excluding the air and helping it to keep and +at the same time makes the meat objectionable to insects. In the +second place, pickled or cured meats taste better and are more +palatable if smoked. Of course the smoking must be properly done +and the right kind of fuel must be used.</p> +<p><b>The Smokehouse and the Smoke.</b> It is not necessary to have +a regular smokehouse—although it is a delightful addition to +any farm. Here again a community meat ring is of great advantage. +One smokehouse will answer for many families. This is the ideal +arrangement and it can easily be managed if you are progressive and +anxious enough to supply your family with delicious meat the year +around saving time and money.</p> +<p>If, however, you have to do your own smoking and smoke only a +small quantity at a time a barrel or box will answer. Overheating +of the meat must be guarded against.</p> +<p>Green hickory or any of the hardwoods or maple should be used +for the smoking. Pine or any other resinous woods should not be +used as they give a disagreeable flavor to the meat. If it is +impossible to get hardwood use corncobs rather than soft wood. The +corncobs will leave a dirty deposit on the meat, which is carbon. +It is not objectionable only from the standpoint of "looks." The +meat which you are going to smoke should be removed from the brine +the day before the smoking. A half hour soaking in cold water +prevents a crust of salt from forming on the outside. Do not hang +the meat so that any two pieces touch as this would prevent uniform +smoking.</p> +<p>Always start with a slow fire so as to warm the meat up +gradually. Thirty-six to forty-eight hours of heat as near 120 +degrees F. as possible will be sufficient under most +circumstances.</p> +<p><b>How to Store Smoked Meats.</b> A dry, cool cellar or attic +where there is good circulation is a good place for storage. If the +meat is to be used soon the meat can hang without coverings but for +long keeping you will have to wrap it when cold in waxed paper and +then in burlap, muslin or canvas bags and then hang it, after it is +tied very tightly to prevent insects from getting in, in a room +with a cool uniform temperature.</p> +<p>Some farmers get satisfactory results by wrapping the meats in +strong bags and then burying them in oat bins.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SAUSAGE</b></p> +<p>Frequently when animals are butchered on the farm there are +often wholesome portions of the carcass that are not used. All +trimmings, cheeks, liver, tongue, breast and other pieces can be +made into bologna, headcheese or some other form of sausage. +Sausage making is an art worth acquiring. There is always a good +demand for fresh and smoked country sausage, so if you wish to sell +some you will have no trouble in finding a market for your product +if it is a good one.</p> +<p>To make sausage you should have a meat grinder, which is an +absolute essential on every farm. If you do not have one already +then buy a No. 22 or No. 32.</p> +<p>In addition to the grinder you will need a stuffer attachment +which costs very little. A knife, cord, string, a clean tube and +casings or muslin bags will complete your equipment. The muslin +bags can be of any size but the easiest to handle are 12 inches +long and 2 inches in diameter. If the sausage is stuffed into these +bags they must be paraffined for home use. If you do not want to +bother with casings or bags put the sausage in stone crocks or tin +pans with a layer of lard or paraffin on top.</p> +<p>The best sausage is made by using 3 parts of lean meat to one of +fat. When using the grinder, distribute the lean and fat meat as +uniformly as possible.</p> +<p>You are not necessarily limited to pork sausage, for there are +many other delicious varieties you can make. They vary in the +different kinds of meat used and in the different seasonings and +spices.</p> +<p>Breakfast sausage has bread added to it; frankfurters are smoked +pork sausage in casings; liver sausage has pork and beef or veal +and bread in it; and blood sausage, as its name suggests, has blood +(preferably from a hog) added to it. Then there is tomato sausage +which is made of pulp from fresh tomatoes, pork sausage and +crackers. Summer sausage is made in the winter and kept for use +during the summer. After being dried and cured it will keep for +months. Brain sausage is delicious. To make it calves' brains are +mixed with lean pork. Cambridge sausage has rice added to it.</p> +<p>Headcheese is usually made from the hog's head but odds and ends +also can be used not only from pork but from beef and veal.</p> +<p>Scrapple usually means the head and feet of hogs but it can be +made from any hog meat. It is a good food as it uses cornmeal. It +makes a change from fried mush and most men working on a farm +relish it.</p> +<p>Sausage can be made from mutton mixed with pork in much the same +way as beef is used for similar purposes. A general formula would +be 2 parts of mutton to 3 parts pork with seasonings.</p> +<p>With a plentiful supply of good home-cured and home-smoked +meats, together with several varieties of sausages, you can feel +you are well equipped to feed your family with its share of meat. +Everything will have been utilized, nothing will have been wasted. +You produced your own meat, you slaughtered and cured and smoked it +and put all trimmings and other "left-overs" into appetizing food +for your family and you have saved money. You have utilized things +at hand and required no transportation facilities. And best of all, +you have the very finest in the land for your family and that gives +one a perfectly justifiable pride in the work accomplished.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVII' id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVII</h2> +<h3>PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS</h3> +<br> +<p>As one-half of the yearly egg crop is produced in March, April, +May and June consumers would do well to store enough at that time +to use when production is light. Fifty dozen eggs should be stored +for a family of five to use during the months of October, November, +December and January, at which time the market price of eggs is at +the highest.</p> +<p>When canning them <i>the eggs must be fresh</i>, preferably not +more than two or three days old. This is the reason why it is much +more satisfactory to put away eggs produced in one's own chicken +yard or one's neighbor's.</p> +<p>Infertile eggs are best if they can be obtained—so, after +the hatching exclude the roosters from the flock and kill them for +table use as needed.</p> +<p><i>The shells must be clean.</i> Washing an egg with a soiled +shell lessens its keeping quality. The protective gelatinous +covering over the shell is removed by water and when this is gone +the egg spoils more rapidly. Use the soiled eggs for immediate use +and the clean ones for storage.</p> +<p><i>The shells also must be free from even the tiniest crack.</i> +One cracked egg will spoil a large number of sound eggs when packed +in water glass.</p> +<p>Earthenware crocks are good containers. <i>The crocks must be +clean and sound.</i> Scald them and let them cool completely before +use. A crock holding six gallons will accommodate eighteen dozen +eggs and about twenty-two pints of solution. Too large crocks are +not desirable, since they increase the liability of breaking some +of the eggs, and spoiling the entire batch.</p> +<p>It must be remembered that the eggs on the bottom crack first +and that those in the bottom of the crock are the last to be +removed for use. Eggs can be put up in smaller crocks and the eggs +put in the crock first should be used first in the household.</p> +<br> +<p><b>METHOD OF STORING</b></p> +<p>There are many satisfactory methods of storing eggs. The +commercial method is that of cold storage and if it were not for +this method winter eggs would be beyond the average purse.</p> +<p>The fact that eggs have been held in cold storage does not +necessarily mean that they are of low quality. Carefully handled +cold-storage eggs often are of better quality than fresh local eggs +that have been improperly cared for.</p> +<p>In the home they may be packed by several methods: Salt, oats or +bran; covering them with vaseline, butter, lard, paraffin or +prepared ointments; immersion in brine, salicylic acid, water glass +(sodium silicate) or limewater.</p> +<p>Any of these methods will keep the eggs for short periods if +stored in a cool place. The salt, oats and bran are very +satisfactory. The ointments also are satisfactory. The water glass +and limewater will keep eggs without loss for a year. However, it +is not wise to put down more eggs than is necessary to tide over +the period of high price.</p> +<br> +<p><b>WATER GLASS METHOD</b></p> +<p>"Water glass" is known to the chemist as sodium silicate. It can +be purchased by the quart from druggists or poultry supply men. It +is a pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It is diluted in the +proportion of one part of silicate to nine parts of distilled +water, rain water, or other water. <i>In any case, the water should +be boiled and then allowed to cool.</i> Half fill the vessel with +this solution and place the eggs in it, being careful not to crack +them. The eggs can be added a few at a time until the container is +filled. Be sure to keep about two inches of water glass above the +eggs. Cover the crock to prevent evaporation and place it in the +coolest place available from which the crock will not have to be +moved. Wax paper covered over and tied around the top of the crock +can be used. Inspect the crock from time to time and replace any +water that has evaporated with cool boiled water.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIMEWATER METHOD</b></p> +<p>Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is +slightly less expensive than water glass. A solution is made by +placing two or three pounds of unslaked lime in five gallons of +water, which has been boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the +mixture to stand until the lime settles and the liquid is clear. +The eggs should be placed in a clean earthenware jar or other +suitable vessel and covered to a depth of two inches with the +liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse in clean, cold water and +use immediately.</p> +<p>If using the limewater method add a little of the lime sediment +to insure a constantly saturated solution. If a thin white crust +appears on the limewater solution it is due to the formation of +calcium carbonate coming in contact with the air and consequently +does no harm.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CANDLING EGGS AT HOME</b></p> +<p>If you purchase the eggs that are to be stored it is safer to +candle them. Examining eggs to determine their quality is called +"candling." Every one knows that some eggs are better than others, +but the ease with which the good ones can be picked out is not +generally understood. The better the quality of eggs, the surer the +housewife can be that they will keep satisfactorily.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOMEMADE CANDLER</b></p> +<p>The equipment for candling usually consists of either a wooden, +a metal, or a cardboard box and a kerosene lamp or an electric +light. A very inexpensive egg candler for home use can be made from +a large shoe-box or similar cardboard box. Remove the ends of the +box, and cut a hole about the size of a half-dollar in one side. +Slip the box over the lamp or electric bulb, darken the room, hold +the egg, with the large end up, before the opening in the box and +its quality can easily be judged.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SIGNS OF A GOOD EGG</b></p> +<p>When held before the opening of the candle, good eggs will look +clear and firm. The air cell (the white spot at the large end of +the eggs) should be small, not larger than a dime, and the yolk may +be dimly seen in the center of the egg. A large air cell and a +dark, freely moving yolk indicate that the egg is stale.</p> +<p>If the shell contents appear black or very dark, the egg is +absolutely unfit for food. If you are in doubt about the quality of +any eggs you are candling break a few of them into a dish and +examine them. This is an excellent way to learn to know how good +and bad eggs look when they are being candled.</p> +<p>Discard all eggs that have shrunken, loose contents, a watery +appearance, cracked and thin shells. Eggs of this description will +not keep and are apt to spoil the eggs close around them. Any egg +that floats in the solution should be discarded.</p> +<p>When packing eggs whether in salt, oats, or in solution place +them with small end down. When packing them in salt, oats, etc., do +not allow any two eggs to touch.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING THE EGGS</b></p> +<p>One gallon of water glass as purchased will make enough +preservative to preserve from 75 to 100 dozen eggs.</p> +<p>Three gallons of either water glass solution or limewater +solution will preserve from 200 to 240 dozen eggs according to the +size of the eggs and the shape of the container.</p> +<p>The cost of preserving eggs by the water glass method is about +one cent per dozen eggs, not considering the cost of the container. +The lime water method is still cheaper.</p> +<p>The following gives the sizes of jars with approximate capacity +for eggs and the amount of water glass solution required to cover +the eggs:</p> +<p>1 gallon jar—40 eggs, 3½ pints of solution or +1¾ qt.</p> +<p>2 gallon jar—80 eggs, 8 pints of solution or 2 quarts.</p> +<p>3 gallon jar—120 eggs, 11 pints of solution or 5½ +quarts.</p> +<p>4 gallon jar—160 eggs, 14½ pints of solution or +7¼ quarts.</p> +<p>5 gallon jar—200 eggs, 18 pints of solution or 9 +quarts.</p> +<p>6 gallon jar—216 eggs, 22 pints of solution or 11 +quarts.</p> +<p>10 gallon jar—400 eggs, 36 pints of solution or 18 +quarts.</p> +<br> +<p><b>HOW TO USE PRESERVED EGGS</b></p> +<p>When the eggs are to be used, remove them as desired, rinse in +clean, cold water, and use immediately.</p> +<p>Eggs preserved in water glass can be used for soft boiling or +poaching up to November. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole +in the large end of the shell with a needle to keep them from +cracking, as the preservative seals the pores of the shell and +prevents the escape of gases, which is possible in the strictly +fresh egg.</p> +<p>They are satisfactory for frying until about December. From that +time until the end of the usual storage period—that is until +March—they can be used for omelettes, scrambled eggs, +custards, cakes and general cookery. As the eggs age, the white +becomes thinner and is harder to beat. The yolk membrane becomes +more delicate and it is correspondingly difficult to separate the +whites from the yolks. Sometimes the white of the egg is tinged +pink after very long keeping in water glass. This is due, probably, +to a little iron which is in the sodium silicate, but which +apparently does not injure the eggs for food purposes.</p> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XVIII' id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> +<h3>HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES</h3> +<br> +<p>Towards the end of the canning season most housewives have used +every available glass jar and tin can and hesitate about purchasing +a new supply. They have dried and brined many products and yet they +feel, and rightly so, that they would like still more vegetables +for winter use. There still remains another method that they may +employ to provide themselves with a plentiful supply of vegetables +and these vegetables can be in the fresh state too. Neither canned, +dried, pickled or salted but fresh.</p> +<p>Canning, drying, pickling and salting are essential and +necessary but they can not take the place of storage. To keep +vegetables in their natural state is the easiest and simplest form +of food preservation. Of course, you must take proper precautions +against freezing and decay. If you do this you can have an abundant +supply of many kinds of fresh vegetables all winter, where climatic +and living conditions will permit. Storage costs but little money +and little effort and yet it is very satisfactory.</p> +<p>There are many vegetables that can be stored to good advantage. +They are: Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Beans, Celery, Carrots, Chicory +or Endive, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Lima Beans, Onions, +Sweet Potatoes, Squash (Winter), Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, +Tomatoes, Turnips.</p> +<p>To get good results in any kind of storage, you must observe +four things:</p> +<ul> +<li>1. Proper ventilation.</li> +<li>2. Proper regulation of temperature.</li> +<li>3. Sufficient moisture.</li> +<li>4. Good condition of vegetables when stored.</li> +</ul> +<p>There are six different ways to store vegetables. They are: +cellar storage, pit storage, outdoor cellar or cave storage, attic +storage, sand boxes and pantry storage.</p> +<br> +<p><b>CELLAR STORAGE</b></p> +<p>We will first of all consider cellar or basement storage. One of +the most convenient places for the storage of vegetables is a cool, +well-ventilated and reasonably dry cellar underneath the house. +This cellar must have windows or some method of ventilation, must +not be too warm and not so cold that food will freeze. If there is +proper ventilation there can be some dampness without injury to the +vegetables. If your cellar or basement floods easily or has water +standing in it anywhere it should not be used for vegetable +storage.</p> +<p>If there is a furnace in the cellar or basement a small room as +far as possible from the heating plant should be partitioned off. +Do not build a room in the middle of the cellar, for two sides of +the room should consist of outside walls.</p> +<p>If possible have two outside windows for proper regulation of +the temperature and for good ventilation. If you cannot have two +windows have one.</p> +<p>A very good arrangement for constant circulation of air consists +in having a stove-pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of +the window to admit cold air. One of the upper panes of the window +can be removed to allow for the escape of warm air. That is, of +course, if the window is made of nine or twelve small panes of +squares of glass. In severely cold weather this upper pane can be +replaced or the opening stuffed up in some way.</p> +<p>If you do not have an old stove-pipe you can make a wooden flue +of old boards or old discarded boxes.</p> +<p>Most cellars and basements are now made with concrete floors. +The ideal floor for storage purposes is an earth floor. However, we +can put two or three inches of sand on our concrete floors and get +good results. Sprinkle the sand with water from time to time.</p> +<p>Put the vegetables that are to be stored in boxes, baskets, +barrels or crates. Use containers that hold only two or three +bushels apiece. If larger boxes or barrels are used there is always +danger of heating and decay. Of course, proper precautions should +be taken against mice.</p> +<p>An excellent way to prevent wilting of crops and shrinkage is to +put moist leaves, oak or maple, in the containers with the +vegetables. Moist sand is sometimes used but it is much heavier to +handle than the leaves. It is no difficult matter to rake the lawn +when you are ready to store the vegetables.</p> +<p>The vegetables that are adapted for cellar storage are beets, +cabbage, carrots, celery, parsnips, potatoes, salsify and +turnips.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PIT STORAGE</b></p> +<p>There are two kinds of pits that may be used for storage. Those +that are not frost-proof and those which are frost-proof.</p> +<p>Some vegetables are not injured by being held in a frozen +condition during the winter months. Cabbage is not injured by +moderate frost. Cabbage and parsnips will stand freezing and a +little thawing, so they can be put in pits or better still, boxes +or barrels set into the ground may be used. Make the pit mound +shaped. If the earth is mounded around the box, barrel or pit, +surface water cannot run in.</p> +<p>If using this kind of storage do not store the products until +both the ground and the products are frozen solid. The idea is to +keep the vegetables frozen or to have very few freezings and +thawings, and those few should be gradual.</p> +<p>After the pit has been made or the box or barrel has been set +into the ground and filled with vegetables, it should be covered +first with a piece of burlap or carpet, then with a mouse-proof +board cover and finally with straw or similar material. When taken +from the pit, the vegetables can be thawed out over night in cold +water, after which they can be kept in the cellar for a short +length of time.</p> +<p>The pits for keeping vegetables free from frost must be +carefully and thoughtfully made, but they are cheap and are very +useful and practical when caves or cellars are not convenient.</p> +<p>The frost-proof pit for storing vegetables should always be +placed in as well-drained a place as possible. A shallow excavation +should be made from one to two feet deep, four feet wide and as +long as desired. Line the pit with straw, hay or leaves, then place +the vegetables in a conical pile on the straw. Cover the vegetables +with six inches of the material used in making the lining. This is +covered with three or four inches of earth. The straw is allowed to +extend up through the earth at the top of the pile, thus assuring +ventilation.</p> +<p>When it becomes colder add more covering to the pit by another +layer of straw and a layer of earth. In very cold climates a layer +of manure or corn stalks will afford protection against frost.</p> +<p>It is well to make several small pits rather than one larger one +for the reason that when a pit has once been opened it is difficult +to protect the remaining vegetables from frost.</p> +<p>It is advisable to store several varieties of vegetables in one +pit so that when each pit is opened you have a variety of +vegetables. If you follow this plan separate the various crops by +using straw or leaves.</p> +<p>Pits are entered by chopping a hole through the frozen earth at +one end, large enough to reach into or crawl into. After the +vegetables have been obtained keep the hole stuffed and covered +most carefully and deeply with old sacks and straw.</p> +<p>If the smaller pits are used, a decidedly better arrangement, +take out all the vegetables in the pit and those that are not +needed for immediate consumption can be placed in the cellar +storage room, or other cool place, until needed. Do not use those +pits if you live where winter rains are abundant as the pits will +become water soaked and the vegetables will suffer more or less +decay.</p> +<br> +<p><b>OUTDOOR CELLAR STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Outdoor cellars or caves may be cheaply built for more or less +temporary use or they may be very expensively built of concrete, +brick, or clay blocks. Of course, the latter are permanent storing +places and offer perfect storage for potatoes, carrots, cabbages, +parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify.</p> +<p>The objectionable features of indoor cellar storage is that such +storage does not furnish ideal conditions for keeping the +vegetables fresh for any great length of time.</p> +<p>The objectionable feature to the pit storage is the +inaccessibility to these pits during severe weather.</p> +<p>The outdoor cellar or cave overcomes both these objections. The +outdoor cellar or cave is an underground structure, preferably +built in a hillside and fully covered with earth except at one end +only where the entrance is located. If there are doors at both ends +it is almost impossible to prevent freezing in very cold weather. +The cave door should fit perfectly and there should be a hatchway +or door over the steps leading down to the cave door.</p> +<p>A very satisfactory inexpensive cellar can be made by digging an +excavation about 5 ft. deep and in this erecting a frame by setting +posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform +height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place +rafters. Board up completely with the exception of the entrance. +Cover the whole with dirt or sod and in cold climates add a layer +of straw or fodder.</p> +<p>A ventilation must be provided in the roof at the back end. A +sewer tile with the bell end up makes a very good flue. A dirt +floor is satisfactory as it contains moisture. If there is any +seepage use a drain tile to carry it off.</p> +<p>The more pretentious permanent cellars are provided with air +spaces to furnish insulation; are provided with large ventilation +shafts through the roof and cold air intakes under the floor. +Thorough drainage is obtained by placing a line of tile around the +outside wall and also by having the air intake serve as a drain for +surplus water that might get into the cave. The floor is cement or +concrete. Such a cave is expensive but is a permanent structure and +a good addition to any farm or estate. If properly made it is +possible to maintain a temperature of 34 to 38 degrees without much +fluctuation during the winter months. This kind of storage is not +only adapted for vegetables but apples as well. It is better +adapted to the Northern, Eastern and Western States than to the +Southern States, where it is likely to be warm at the time the +vegetables are ready for storage. When making the cave, have it as +near as possible to the kitchen door. Sometimes caves are made so +that they can be entered from the house, cellar or porch.</p> +<br> +<p><b>ATTIC STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Some vegetables such as onions, squashes, sweet potatoes and +pumpkins can be stored in the attic in crates which allow free +circulation of air. They must be absolutely free from bruises and +must be well ripened and cured. To cure the vegetables expose them +to the air for a few days in the shade. Remove the tops of onions +before storing. The attic is much better for storing onions than +the basement. Squashes are susceptible to cold and moisture, so are +suitable for the attic.</p> +<p>Be very careful in handling the squashes to prevent breaking the +stems off. Watch pumpkins and squash carefully and at the first +sign of decay, use immediately or can.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SAND BOX STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Sand boxes in cellars, pits or caves are desirable for beets, +turnips, kohl-rabi, carrots, winter radishes and rutabagas. The +sand keeps them cold and prevents evaporation. Kohl-rabi should be +tender when stored.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PANTRY STORAGE</b></p> +<p>Where there is no attic or where it is inconveniently reached, +the products that are adapted to a very dry place can be stored on +the pantry shelves or in a dry cellar near the furnace. They are +onions, squashes, pumpkins and sweet potatoes.</p> +<p>The keeping qualities of all these vegetables, no matter what +storage is used, depends chiefly upon their condition when placed +in storage. All products to be stored must be mature, but not +overgrown. Root crops should be dry while the ground is in good +working condition. All vegetables should be allowed to become +surface dry before placing them in storage.</p> +<p>White or Irish potatoes, especially, should not be exposed to +bright sunlight any length of time. Only vegetables free from +disease or injury should be stored. Any that are damaged can be +used immediately, or can be canned or dried.</p> +<p>Further particulars for the storing of fresh vegetables are +given in the following tables.</p> +<b>TABLE FOR VEGETABLE STORAGE</b> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>VEGETABLES</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>HOW BEST STORED</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>PREPARATION FOR STORAGE</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>AMOUNT FOR FAMILY OF TWO</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>REMARKS</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Irish Potatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept cool with a slight +degrees of moisture. Use either cellar or cave methods. No potato +should be more than four ft. from air if stored in barrels, boxes, +crates or bins.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Potatoes must be dug before the +ground is crusted with frost. Frosted potatoes will spoil, one +after another. Impossible to sort out frosted potatoes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10 to 15 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Remember Irish potatoes are ruined +by freezing. Potatoes should be kept absolutely dark to prevent +greening by light. Never buy potatoes in sacks that show wet places +due to a frosted potato.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Sweet Potatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Require warmth and dryness. In +crates or on shelves in warm dry room. Can be spread on the floor +in the room above the kitchen where they will have plenty of heat, +especially for the first 2 or 3 weeks after they are dug.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>When the sweet potatoes are dug they +should be allowed to lie in the sun and wind for 3 or 4 hours so as +to become perfectly dry. They must be well ripened and free from +bruises. Can be kept on shelves in a very dry place and they need +not be kept specially cold. Sweet potatoes keep best when they are +showing just a little inclination to sprout. However, if they start +growing the quality is greatly injured.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>2 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If you are in doubt as to whether +the sweet potatoes are matured enough for storage, cut or break one +end and expose it to the air for a few minutes. If the surface of +the cut or break dries, the potato is mature. But if moisture +remains on the surface, it is not fully ripened. In places where +there are early frosts, sweet potatoes should be dug about the time +the first frost is expected, without considering maturity.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Carrots</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Are best stored in sand in cellars, +caves or pits; or in tightly covered boxes or crocks. Must be kept +cold and evaporation must be prevented, for otherwise they become +wilted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until the +weather is quite cool; then be pulled, the tops cut off and then +stored.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If you store carrots in the cellar +and it is extremely dry cover them with a little moistened +sand.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Celery</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be rooted in earth in a cellar +or cave and if watered occasionally will keep fresh until +Christmas. The soil, earth or sand, in which the celery is set +should be 2 or 3 inches deep. This soil must not be allowed to +become dry.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until the +weather is quite cool.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 dozen good plants or bunches.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Another way to store celery is to +bank it to the top with earth; cover the tops with boards, straw, +or leaves and allow it to remain where it has grown until wanted +for use. Another way is to dig a trench 12 inches wide and deep +enough to correspond with the height of the celery, then lift the +celery and pack it in this trench with some soil about the roots. +When the weather becomes colder, cover the trench with boards +nailed together in the form of a V shaped trough and over this +inverted trough put a layer of soil. The ends of this trough should +be left open for ventilation until freezing sets in, then close +these openings with straw, old bags or soil. If the freeze ceases +and there is a spell of warmer weather open the ends slightly for +ventilation. When the celery is first stored in the trenches the +soil about the roots of the celery should be watered and and if the +weather is dry after the celery is put in the trenches, pour some +water around the roots to keep the celery crisp and fresh.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Cabbage</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can be wrapped in paper with the +outer leaves left on for immediate use and stored in ventilated +barrels or large crates in the cellar. But as few cellars are cool +enough to keep cabbage in good condition it is more advisable to +store it in a long shallow pit in the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Is not injured by moderate frost +while in the pit but should not be disturbed while frozen. The pit +should be long and narrow. Pull the cabbage, stem, root and all, +and then laid with heads down about 3 heads in width can be placed +in the pit. Cover lightly with soil and as the weather becomes +colder add a little more soil until there is a layer 6 or 7 inches +thick over the cabbage. Keep the ends of the pit partially open for +ventilation until the weather becomes very cold.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>25 heads.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Late varieties of cabbage are the +only ones fit for storage. It is advisable to dig a shallow ditch +around the pit so that all surplus water can be carried off.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Chickory or Endive</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Store in a box or bed of moist sand +in the cellar. Put roots in an upright position with the sand +coming just to their tops. Water the sand occasionally. Sometimes a +covering of straw is added to blanch the tender growth of shoots, +which is the part used as food.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Late in the fall lift the roots out +and carefully trim off the leaves without injury to the heart.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 doz. roots.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Chickory or endive is grown the same +as carrots or salsify. It is useful in the winter for it furnishes +the needed green that is so scarce in winter.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Beets</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be placed in too large +piles in the cellar as they are inclined to mold. Can also be +buried in pits in open ground.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can remain in the ground until very +cool weather; then should be pulled, the tops cut off and then +stored in the cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 bushel.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Beets are not so much inclined to +shrivel as carrots.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Salsify or Vegetable Oyster</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pack roots in box with moist sand in +cellar or as they are not injured by remaining in the ground all +winter they can be left there. Enough for immediate use may be dug +in the autumn and the others dug as desired.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>When stored in the cellar after the +salsify is pulled, trim off the tops and then stand them in an +upright position with the sand even with the tops.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>75 to 100 roots.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Is injured by too much freezing and +thawing, so should remain frozen.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Parsnips</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Can be stored just as salsify or be +allowed to remain in the ground until wanted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Those that are to be stored in the +cellar can remain in in the garden until the weather is quite cool, +then prepare and store like salsify.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 bushel in the cellar and one in +the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Parsnips are best kept frozen or +fresh in the cellar as too much freezing and thawing destroys +them.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Turnips</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be stored where temperature is +low or sprouting will result. Moderate freezing does no harm while +in the storage pit but they must not be disturbed while +frozen.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Pull; cut tops off and store in sand +in cellars or caves, or in pits, or in tightly covered boxes or +crocks.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>1 to 3 bus.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>The object is to keep them cold and +prevent evaporation. It is a good plan to store a portion in the +cellar so as to be available during the time that those buried in +the pit are "frozen in" and not so easily accessible.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Onions</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Require a cool dry place. Attic +excellent.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Before storing, cure them by +exposing to the air for a few days in the shade. Dryness is +absolutely essential. A well cured onion should be firm and not +readily dented at the base of the tops by the tip of the thumb when +held in the hand.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>3 bushels.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Onions are best for storage if +topped about 1½ inches long.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Cauliflower</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Planted in shallow boxes of soil in +light place in the cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be too mature.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Store as many as possible.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>If kept well watered they will +mature for winter use.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Brussels Sprouts</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Planted in soil in cellar.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must not be too mature.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>According to family tastes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Keep watered and will mature.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Ground Cherries or Husk Tomatoes +Kohl-rabi, Winter Radishes, Rutabagas</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be stored for some weeks in the +husk in their layers in a dry place free from frost. Best stored in +sand in cellars, cares or pits.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept cold to prevent +evaporation.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>According to the family tastes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Kohl-rabi must be tender when +stored.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Horse-radish Pumpkins</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be kept in the ground where +grown all winter. Must be kept frozen as thawing injures it. Best +kept on shelves in a very dry place. Can be kept on shelves in +furnace room.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be ripened and cured and free +from bruises.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>5 ordinary sized pumpkins.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Need not be kept especially +cold.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Squashes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Susceptible to cold and moisture, so +store in a dry place where temperature will be between 50 and 60 +degrees.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Care must be taken that stem is not +broken.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>10 ordinary sized hubbard +squashes.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Whenever squashes or pumpkins in +storage show signs of decay, the sound portion should be +immediately canned.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Tomatoes</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Cool cellar or cave; can be wrapped +in any absorbent paper preferably without printing upon it, and +laid upon shelves to ripen. The paper absorbs the moisture given +off by the tomatoes and causes them to ripen uniformly. If cellar +is dry or well ventilated, tomatoes can be kept a month or six +weeks in this manner.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>May be kept until Christmas if vines +with the green tomatoes hanging on them are pulled and hung in the +cellar. Pull the vines before they are frosted.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All that you can put away.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Most of the tomatoes that are put +into storage will ripen and be most acceptable as soon as they +color up. If these tomatoes, when cooked, are found to be very +acid, the acidity may be overcome by using baking soda.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Parsley</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Transplant into flower pots late in +the fall.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Keep in windows where they will +receive plenty of sunshine.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Garlic</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Should be thoroughly cured as are +onions.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Or it may be braided by the tops +into strings which are hung up in dry places for curing and +storing.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Head Lettuce</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Rooted in earth in a cellar or +cave.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Water occasionally.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>All you have in the garden.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Dry beans and peas</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Stored where protected from +weevils.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Should be fully ripened before +shelling. Pick pods by hand as they ripen and spread pods to become +thoroughly dry. May be shelled by spreading pods on a sheet and +beating them with a stick. Can be cleaned by pouring them from a +height of 4 or 5 ft. upon a sheet and allowing the wind to blow the +particles of pod out of them as they fall.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>As many as you can gather.</td> +<td class='bb bl'> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class='bb' align='left'>Apples</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Must be kept in a dry, cool place +and so stored as to be in no danger of absorbing odors from +vegetables stored nearby. Apples absorb odors from potatoes, +onions, turnips and other strong vegetables.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>Sort apples carefully removing and +using at once all fruit that is bruised and shows signs of decay. +The best results are obtained by wrapping each apple in half a +sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates or bins. +The wrapping prevents apples from touching and thus prevents decay. +It also protects apples from odors of vegetables stored +nearby.</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>As many barrels of apples as +possible. Remember that "An apple a day will keep the doctor +away."</td> +<td class='bb bl' align='left'>The cellar or other storage place +must be kept cool. 32° F. is ideal. Never allow temperature to +go above 40° F. They can be stored unwrapped in barrels, boxes, +crates, bins, etc., if proper attention is paid to sorting, to +providing a cool place for storage, to occasional sorting during +the winter and for the immediate removal of all decayed fruit. Even +if you do not raise apples, but have a good storage place, meeting +the requirements as regards temperature, you will find it +advantageous to buy a winter's supply in the autumn, when prices +are low.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<hr style='width: 65%;'> +<a name='CHAPTER_XIX' id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a> +<h2>CHAPTER XIX</h2> +<h3>HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE</h3> +<br> +<p>You have some delicious jellies, jams, canned fruits and +vegetables that you wish to sell and you do not know just how to go +about it. There are at your disposal several means of selling:</p> +<p>1. Through advertising.</p> +<p>2. Through personal letters to desirable shops, delicatessens, +boarding-houses, colleges, etc.</p> +<p>3. By direct salesmanship; that is, by making personal visits to +the buyers, either homes or stores.</p> +<p>4. Through jobbers to whom you pay a commission on all +sales.</p> +<p>5. Through coöperative selling.</p> +<p>Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way for you to handle your +problem is to employ the method so much used to-day and that is +wayside advertising. Wayside advertising costs practically nothing +and yet it pays.</p> +<p>Autos are everywhere these days. You cannot take a country ride +without seeing many signboards at the farm entrances advertising +chickens, fresh eggs, vegetables, honey, apples and canned goods. I +have a friend who drives 50 miles every fall for her honey. She +first found it by seeing the sign in front of the farm and now she +returns year after year because she thinks no other honey is just +like it. She would never have discovered it if that farm woman had +not been clever enough to think of advertising her goods in this +cheap way. My friend told all her other "auto" friends, so the +country woman has a splendid outlet for her product now. If you +live on a good road that is patronized at all by autoists you ought +to get your signboard up at once.</p> +<p>We often pass a farm where the sign "Fresh Home-Made Candy" +always tempts us to stop and buy. What autoist could resist that +sign? And here miles from town this clever woman is carrying on a +profitable side trade, which is netting her a nice little yearly +income. Her candy is good; we go often and so do many others. She +has turned her profession into a paying proposition. She could send +her candy away by parcel post or by some other means, but she would +not be so far ahead as she is now.</p> +<p>In addition to your wayside advertising you could advertise in +papers, magazines, etc. Many producers believe strongly in +advertising in daily and weekly papers. You can quickly find out +whether this kind of advertising pays. Give it a trial at least. +After you have spent ten or fifteen dollars in advertising you +ought to know whether it pays.</p> +<p>Use one or two of the city papers near you, taking the +publisher's advice as to the best day of the week on which to run +the advertisement, the size and the position of the "ad." The first +cost of getting your customers may seem high, but with good +products you could soon build up a list of people to whom sales can +be made year after year.</p> +<p>This form of advertising has many advantages. If your +advertising copy is clever and you have some novelty to offer, you +ought to receive many orders. If orders come, you get the full +retail price, the shipping charges are paid by the customer, and +cash comes with every order. And it means, if your customers are +pleased, that you have permanent customers. The initial cost is +great and there is a risk, but remember "it pays to advertise."</p> +<p>There are millions of city women who never can a jar of fruit or +put up a single glass of preserves or jelly who will be glad to +have you send your goods direct to them by parcel post. But you +must get in touch with these women either through wayside +advertising, magazine and paper advertising or by direct +salesmanship, although very few women have the time for personal +calls.</p> +<p>Considerable business can be done by letter writing to stores, +restaurants and boarding-houses in distant cities. It may be +impossible for you to go personally, in which case letters often +bring the desired results. Make your letters business-like and +typewrite them. Do not be discouraged if you do not get many +replies at first as there are at least fifty per cent who pay no +attention to such letters. But this form of advertising usually +pays.</p> +<p>Another method followed by many home canners is that of +marketing direct to the retail grocers, care being taken, of +course, to protect these grocers by not selling to more than one +member in a community. One of the great advantages, of this direct +salesmanship is that little selling effort is required on your part +after the first arrangements have been made. The nearby market plan +is greatly to be recommended because you can keep in touch with +your selling concern, build up a line of desirable goods and +promote its sale by advertising.</p> +<p>Of course you can get more money for your goods if you have time +and the opportunity to sell <i>direct to</i> the consumers. You +will of necessity have to sell cheaper to the grocers because they +too must make their profit. Marketing direct to the consumer has a +special appeal to many people. Where time is available and the +community accustomed to purchasing in this manner, this method +offers great possibilities. The profits are of course higher but +the results more uncertain, for it is somewhat difficult to gauge +the demands of the public, and the canner must assume the risk +ordinarily taken by the merchant.</p> +<p>It takes time and patience to develop a list of customers but if +you have time in the winter to do this you will find it will pay +you well. If you can get customers who are willing to pay good +prices for quality, scrupulous cleanliness and the homemade flavor, +you will get a larger gross return than if you sold through +merchants, but if your time is valuable it would scarcely pay you +to take individual orders and deliver goods.</p> +<p>There is still another way and that is to market your +home-canned products in large lots to jobbers, but if this plan is +to be pursued successfully there must be a reasonably large pack +and wholesale rates. This method produces more uniform profits year +by year, for after a reputation is established the home-canner +would not experience great difficulty in thus disposing of her +entire output by contract, providing the quality was high and the +price demands not excessive.</p> +<p>But the greatest and best way of all to find a profitable market +for your things is to coöperate with other canners in your own +neighborhood and find a market for quantity as well as quality. +Delicatessens, club houses, tea shops, college dormitories, +restaurants and hotels, all pay good prices for fine quality. No +big buyer will bother to purchase one or two dozen of this or that. +He wants dozens of things. One of the very best profitable ways to +sell with little trouble is through quantities. Get all the women +in your community to bring together cans of fruit and preserves, +etc., to some marketing place. Find out how many jars of currant +jelly you have, how many cans of peas and corn, how many of +cherries, etc., and then notify your buyer or prospective +buyer.</p> +<p>Coöperative selling has been undertaken and found +profitable. In some cases, especially in localities frequented by +the summer boarder or the automobile tourist, sales are made direct +to customers who come to the salesrooms of the organizations or to +their special sales; in other cases goods are sent by parcel post +and other means. The women in the community can hire or beg a room +where all the women of the community can sell their products for +individual profit. This room should be located on the direct +automobile road in order to attract tourists and automobile +parties. An annual membership fee of from 50 cents to $1 generally +is required for these organizations, and a charge of from 10 to 15 +per cent of the selling price usually is made to cover the cost of +selling. In a few instances the managing board has been able to +secure an efficient person to take charge of the enterprise for a +specified percentage on the sales.</p> +<p>Wholesale grocery concerns are interested in big +things—orders can be placed with them. Soda fountains in +towns and cities are excellent customers for the freshest eggs they +can get. They are encroaching more and more on the trade of the +restaurants and lunch rooms. Many serve light luncheons and would +be interested in good butter, preserves and jams. When you get a +list of names and addresses write to several dozen places, tell +what your organization has in the way of guaranteed eggs, homemade +products and what kind of service you could offer in the way of +regular shipments. When orders come it is an easy matter to look up +at your local bank the responsibility of any customer, so there is +little risk. Or cash can be insisted upon with every order, +although large concerns prefer to pay after receipt of goods and +bill.</p> +<p>Each woman in this coöperative organization must keep her +goods up to a certain standard, for an inferior lot of goods sent +to a large firm might ruin a reputation.</p> +<p>Three things govern the sale of canned +products—appearances, quality and price. So many things enter +into consideration of prices obtainable that it is difficult to set +a standard which will be applicable to different sections. The +quality of the pack, its neatness, the method of marketing and many +other matters must be considered in deciding this all-important +point. As a general proposition, however, if the products are +uniformly high grade, prices may be obtained which are somewhat in +excess of factory-made products marketed in the same manner.</p> +<p>Like any other new industry, the selling should be developed +slowly in order to minimize the possibility of loss and to assure +stable business. One should study the situation carefully both from +the manufacturing and marketing standpoints. Plan the season's +campaign before taking up the work, and do not let the enthusiasm +of the beginner interfere with good business judgment.</p> +<p>The selling when rightly managed can be made a successful +business or it can be turned into a liability through careless, +unbusinesslike methods and insufficient or unwise planning. +Properly handled it will pay well for the investment of time and +money, and offer opportunity for the disposal of surplus +home-canned, home-grown, homemade and home-prepared products of all +kinds.</p> +<br> +<p><b>LIVING UP TO CONTRACTS</b></p> +<p>Care must be taken not to contract for more than can be +delivered. This would be bad business, and business principles must +govern in selling home products just as in other enterprises if one +is to be increasingly successful from year to year.</p> +<p>Occasionally a quantity of fruit which will not meet the rigid +requirements of the canning business can be turned into preserves, +jellies or fruit juices. Preserves and jellies should be marketed +in glass, and fruit juices in bottles, although some manufacturers +are now marketing some of these products in fiber cups. This line +of products will require some additional equipment, but there is a +steady demand for such homemade things and many women are deriving +profits through the sale of their tastily prepared jellies, just as +pickles and condiments have lined the pocketbooks of ambitious +housewives before now.</p> +<p>Home canning for the market is essentially a matter of +specializing and of giving the consumer a better product than he is +accustomed to purchase. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the +maintenance of a high standard for home-canned goods. Care should +be taken that every jar measures up to a rigid standard, for a +single one which falls below grade will neutralize the reputation +and standing obtained by the sale of a dozen jars of perfect +product. A quality is necessary which will warrant a money-back +guarantee on every jar.</p> +<br> +<p><b>THE USE OF LABELS IN CANNING</b></p> +<p>Labels for both tin cans and glass jars should tell the truth as +to the quality, weight and kind of product within the pack. Before +adopting a trade-mark and label, consult the Bureau of Chemistry, +U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., as to label +requirements for canned goods prepared for the market.</p> +<p>It pays to show samples of all your canned goods at county and +state fairs. You may win many premiums. Goods which are canned with +preservatives should be debarred from all exhibits.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING GLASS FOR SHIPPING</b></p> +<p>Wrap each glass or jar separately in rumpled newspapers or +excelsior and pack in barrels or boxes. Line these containers with +papers or excelsior.</p> +<p>Strong corrugated parcel post boxes can be obtained for this +purpose. Wrap each jar with excelsior or paper before putting it in +its proper section. If sending large amounts send all boxes or all +barrels, do not mix them,—sending half barrels and half +boxes—as large concerns like uniform packages.</p> +<br> +<p><b>PACKING TIN FOR SHIPPING</b></p> +<p>Two dozen cans is the regulation shipping case. Have the +shipping boxes of uniform size. Put the two dozen cans in the box +and nail on the top. Be exceedingly careful not to drive nails into +the cans. On both ends of the box paste labels such as are on the +cans, telling what the contents of the box are.</p> +<p>Address the box carefully using marking ink or a regulation tag. +If a tag, tack with small tacks on the top of the box. Write your +own name and address on the tag <i>distinctly</i> as the sender. Be +as careful of the tacks as you were of the nails. Always get a +receipt from your express agent if shipping by express as this will +be necessary in case of non-receipt of goods.</p> +<p>Send to the concern or individual to whom you are sending the +goods a list of the things you have sent. This is called an +invoice. Keep a copy of the invoice for yourself so if any question +arises you will know what you are talking about.</p> +<br> +<p><b>SHIPPING TERMS</b></p> +<p>C.O.D. means collect on delivery. The purchaser pays the price +of the products to the transportation company before they are +delivered.</p> +<p>F.O.B. means free on board. For instance: if you send a shipment +of canned goods to Chicago at $6.00 per case f.o.b. Charles City it +means that you deliver the canned goods to the freight depot at +Charles City and the purchaser pays both the price per case and the +freight. If you deliver them f.o.b. Chicago it means you deliver +them to the freight depot at Charles City and also pay the freight +to Chicago.</p> +<p>Bill of Lading with Sight Draft Attached is a call for the money +before the purchaser can take the products from the freight +office.</p> +<p>Drop Shipment. If a wholesale firm requests that you ship direct +to another firm buying from him, thus avoiding two shipments, this +is called a drop shipment.</p> +<p>Lot Shipment. If you ship two or more barrels or cases as a "lot +shipment" to the same destination they may be sent at a cheaper +rate than if each were shipped separately.</p> +<h3>LIST OF FIRMS FURNISHING SUPPLIES FOR CANNING, DRYING, +PRESERVING, ETC</h3> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HOME AND CLUB COÖPERATIVE +CANNING OUTFITS AND DEVICES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Butler Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Kansas City, Mo., and Minneapolis, Minn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water and steam<br> +and pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Carolina Metal Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wilmington, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Farm Canning Machine Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Meridian, Miss.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Favorite Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Tamps, Florida</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Florida Metal Products</td> +<td align='left'>Jacksonville, Fla.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Griffith & Turner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>205-207 N. Pace St., Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Halftime Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>7556 Oglesby Avenue, Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hall Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Grand Rapids, Mich.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water bath canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co</td> +<td align='left'>80-82 N. 5th Street, Portland, Ore.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Home Canner Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Hickory, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>E.F. Kirwan & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Modern Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Monarch Manufacturing Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Northwestern Steel & Iron Wks.</td> +<td align='left'>Eau Claire, Wis. canners.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pressure Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Denver, Colo.</td> +<td align='left'>Aluminum steam pressure<br> +cookers and canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>T.H. Raney</td> +<td align='left'>Chapel Hill, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>A.K. Robins & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Royal Supply Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio</td> +<td align='left'>Steam process canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Canner and Evaporator Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sprague Canning Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>222 No. Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Steam pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl</td> +<td align='left'>212 N. 4th Street, Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Standard Water-Seal Canner Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 N. 2nd Street, Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Utility Company</td> +<td align='left'>Hickory, N.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Hot water canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Willson Canner Company</td> +<td align='left'>Louisville, Ky.,<br> +and No. 8 G St., N.W. Washington, D.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Water-seal and<br> +and pressure canners.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HOME EVAPORATORS, DRYERS, AND +EQUIPMENT FOR DRYING</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Paring Machine Co</td> +<td align='left'>1231 Callowhill St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Peeler</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Harry Bentz Engineering Co.</td> +<td align='left'>90 West St., New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>G.S. Blakekslee & Company,</td> +<td align='left'>2806 Quinn St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Enterprise Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>3rd and Dauphin Sts., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Slicer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Edw. B. Fahrney,</td> +<td align='left'>Waynesboro, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Gordon Engineering Corporaton</td> +<td align='left'>39 Cortlandt St., New York City</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Grange Sales Association,</td> +<td align='left'>Lafayette Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hunter Dry Kiln Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Machine Company,</td> +<td align='left'>108 West 34th St., N.Y. City</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Lake Breeze Motor Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>564 W. Monroe St., Chicago</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia Drying Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Stekley St., above Westmoreland, Philadelphia, +Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia Textile Machinery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sixth St. and Tabor Road, Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>John E. Smith's Sons Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Buffalo, N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Evaporator Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl,</td> +<td align='left'>212 N. 4th St., Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>N.R. Streeter Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Dryer</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>N.R. Streeter & Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>B.F. Sturtevant Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Hyde Park Dist., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Peeler</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Stutzman Mfg. Company,</td> +<td align='left'>Ligonier, Ind.</td> +<td align='center'>"</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.G.W. Young Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>61 Hanover St., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Cuber</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>MECHANICAL SEALS AND SEALERS FOR +TIN AND GLASS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Metal Cap Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Summit St. and Commercial Wharf, Brooklyn, +N.Y.</td> +<td align='left'>Metal bottle caps.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Pure Food Process Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Greenmount Avenue and Preston St., Baltimore, +Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Mechanical sealer for glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Bowers Can Seal Company,</td> +<td align='left'>146 Summer St., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Automatic can sealers for tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Burpe Can Sealer Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>215 W. Huron St., Chicago.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin can sealer and opener.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Columbia Specialty Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Metal bottle caps.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Crown Cork and Seal Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Chicago, San Francisco, and other +cities</td> +<td align='left'>Sanitary metal bottle caps and sealers.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Enterprise Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Bottle cappers from 3 in. to 14 in.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Frazer & Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>50 Church Street, New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Mechanical hand sealer for sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>47 1st Street, Portland, Ore.</td> +<td align='left'>Automatic can sealers for tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>States Metals Co.,</td> +<td align='left'>30 Church Street, New York City</td> +<td align='left'>Hand sealers for sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>STEAMERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Aluminum Cooking Utensil Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New Kensington, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Toledo Cooker Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Toledo, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wilmot, Castle & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>HEATING DEVICES, LIFTING CRATES, +AND OTHER LABOR-SAVING DEVICES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>L.B. Allen Co. Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>4517 No. Lincoln St.,</td> +<td align='left'>Commercial flux.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Biddle-Gaumer Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'>Patent canners.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.P. Chandlee Sons Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Fagley & Halpen</td> +<td align='left'>Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Handy Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Maritime Bldg., Seattle Wash., and<br> +No. 208 Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Individual jar holders.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kerr Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sand Springs, Okla.</td> +<td align='left'>Duplex fork.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Manning, Bowman & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Meriden, Conn.</td> +<td align='left'>Alcholite stoves.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Parker Wire Goods Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Worcester, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Lifting tray for jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pearce Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Albion, Mich.</td> +<td align='left'>Racks and lifters.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.H. Schaefer Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Toledo, Ohio.</td> +<td align='left'>Fruit jar wrench.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>LABELS, STICKERS, SHIELDS AND +BADGES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Camden Curtain and Embroidery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Camden, New Jersey.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>R.P. Clarke & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Dennison Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Printing and Lithograph Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='3'><b>TIN CANS AND GLASS JARS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New York City.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ball Bros. Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Muncie, Ind.</td> +<td align='left'>Screw top and glass-top jars</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ben Schloss</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buck Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Chesapeake Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chicago, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Frazer & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>50 Church St., N.Y.C.</td> +<td align='left'>Sanitary cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hazel-Atlas Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W. Va.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass-top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Johnson-Morse Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W. Va.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kerr Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sand Springs, Okla.</td> +<td align='left'>Suction seal and Mason jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>E.F. Kirwan Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>A.K. Robins & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans and general equipment.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Schramm Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>St. Louis, Mo.</td> +<td align='left'>Suction seal and screw top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Smalley Fruit Jar Co.</td> +<td align='left'>26 Dock Sq., Boston, Mass.</td> +<td align='left'>Glass-top jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Southern Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Baltimore, Md.</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.S. Stahl</td> +<td align='left'>Quincy, Ill.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Staunton Jar Corporation<i>N.Y.</i></td> +<td align='left'>Ellicott Sq, Buffalo,</td> +<td align='left'>Vacuum seal jars.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cincinnati, Ohio</td> +<td align='left'>Tin cans.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Virginia Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Buchanan, Va.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wheeling Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +<td align='left'> + " " "</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>RUBBER RINGS FOR COLD-PACK +CANNING</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Acme Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Trenton, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Boston Woven Hose & Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Rubber Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cleveland, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>GLASS BOTTLES AND OTHER +CONTAINERS FOR FRUIT JUICES, CATSUP, ETC.</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Adams Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Atlantic Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>90 West Broadway, N.Y. City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Berney-Bond Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bradford, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cape May Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cape May Court House, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cumberland Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bridgeton, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Federal Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Columbus, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.L. Flaccus Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Pittsburgh, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Glenshaw Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Glenshaw, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.C. Goss Glass Co., Mfg. Agts.</td> +<td align='left'>172 Fulton St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hocking Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Lancaster, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Charleroi, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Indiana Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Dunkirk, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>D.C. Jenkins Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Kokomo, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>North Wheeling Glass Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ripley & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Connellsville, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Schramm Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sheffield Glass Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sheffield, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Sterling Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Lapel, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Turner Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Salem, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Upland Flint Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Upland, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Western Bottle Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>West end Randolph St. Bridge, Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Whitall-Tatum Co.</td> +<td align='left'>410-416 Race St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wightman Bottle & Glass Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Parkers Landing, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Williamstown Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Williamstown, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Woodbury Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Winchester, Ind.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>GLASS BOTTLES SEALED WITH CORKS +AND METAL CAPS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Acme Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Olean, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Binghamton Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Binghamton, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>C.L. Flaccus Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Pittsburgh, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hazel-Atlas Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Wheeling, W.Va.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Imperial Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Charleroi, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Jeanette Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Jeanette, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Zanesville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>North Baltimore Bottle Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Turner Brothers Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Terre Haute, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Whitney Glass Works</td> +<td align='left'>Glassboro, N.J.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>EARTHENWARE AND STONEWARE +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buckel Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Hall, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Buckeye Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Macomb, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Burley and Winter Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Crooksville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hawthorn Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Hawthorn, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Logan Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Logan, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Louisville Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Louisville, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Muskingum Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Cottage, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Nashville Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Nashville, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Nelson McCly Sanitary Hardware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roseville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Paducah Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Paducah, Ky.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pfaltzaraff Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>York, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ransbottom Bros., Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roseville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Red Wing Union Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Red Wing, Minn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Star Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Crooksville, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Uhl Pottery Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Evansville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Western Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Monmouth, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>White Hall Sewer Pipe & Stoneware Co.</td> +<td align='left'>White Hall, Ill.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>FIBRE AND PAPER CANS AND +BOTTLES</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>447 W. 14th, New York City, and Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The American Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Canister Company of New Jersey</td> +<td align='left'>Phillipsburg, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Paper Bag Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 Battery Place, New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cordley & Hayes</td> +<td align='left'>7-9 Leonard St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Empire Paper Tube and Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>155 Bank St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Hygeia Paper Container Co.</td> +<td align='left'>2106 Auburn Ave., Toledo, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Moisture Proof Fibre Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Detroit, Mich.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Mono-Service Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Samuel W. Moore & Sons</td> +<td align='left'>95 Liberty St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>576 Clinton St., Milwaukee, Wis.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Pure Food Package Co.</td> +<td align='left'>200 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Purity Paper Bottle Co., Inc.</td> +<td align='left'>1341 S. Capitol St., Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.C. Ritchie & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>400 S. Green St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sanitary Paper Bottle Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Single Service Package Corp. of America</td> +<td align='left'>326 Hudson St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>St. Louis Paper Can & Tube Co.</td> +<td align='left'>4400 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>The Standard Package Co.</td> +<td align='left'>50 State St., Boston, Mass.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Washington Paper Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>425 12th St., N.W., Washington, D.C.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Weis Fibre Container Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>Monroe, Mich.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>FOIL-LINED PAPER BAGS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thomas M. Royal & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bryn Mawr, Pa.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>DELIVERY CONTAINERS FOR EGGS, +VEGETABLES, DRIED FOOD PRODUCTS, ETC.</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Bloomer Bros. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, New York.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Doane Carton Co.</td> +<td align='left'>920 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Mono-Service Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.J.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thomas M. Royal & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Bryn Mawr, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>W.A. Schurmann & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>365 E. Ill. St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>United States Corrugated Fibre Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Roosevelt Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Weis Fibre Container Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>Monroe, Mich.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>PARCEL POST EGG +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>O.B. Andrews Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Chattanooga, Tenn.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>H.K. Brunner</td> +<td align='left'>45 Harrison St., New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1122-28 S. 12th St., St Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Continental Paper Bag Co.</td> +<td align='left'>17 Battery Place, New York City.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Cummer Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Cadillac, Mich.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Day Collapsible Box Co., Inc.</td> +<td align='left'>Washington Grove, Md.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Empire Printing & Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Atlanta, Ga.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>F.B. Foster & Co.</td> +<td align='left'>2447 Locust St., Philadelphia, Pa.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Robert Gair Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Ohio No-Break Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>702 Mercantile Library Bldg., Cincinnati, +Ohio.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Self-Locking Carton Co.</td> +<td align='left'>437 E. Illinois St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Concord & Prince Sts., Brooklyn,N.Y.<br> +Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Safety Egg Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Newark, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Wallace Egg Carrier Co.</td> +<td align='left'>451 3rd St., San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>MISCELLANEOUS CORRUGATED BOARD +CONTAINERS</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>American Can Co.</td> +<td align='left'>New York City and Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1122-28 S. 12th St., St. Louis, Mo.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Empire Printing & Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Atlanta, Ga.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Federal Glass Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Columbus, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Robert Gair Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Brooklyn, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Hinde & Dauch Paper Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Sandusky, Ohio</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>National Paper Products Co.</td> +<td align='left'>San Francisco, Cal.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Sefton Mfg. Corporation</td> +<td align='left'>1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Thompson & Norris Co.</td> +<td align='left'>Concord and Prince Sts., Brooklyn,N.Y.<br> +Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind.</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>U.S. Corrugated Fibre Box Co.</td> +<td align='left'>1315 Martindale Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br> +<br> +<table align='center' border='0' cellpadding='4' cellspacing='0' +summary=''> +<tr> +<td align='center' colspan='2'><b>THERMOMETERS FOR OVEN, CANDY AND +SUGAR</b></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td align='left'>Taylor Instrument Companies</td> +<td align='left'>Rochester, N.Y.</td> +</tr> +</table> +<br /> +<br /> +<hr class="full" noshade> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERY STEP IN CANNING***</p> +<p>******* This file should be named 13775-h.txt or 13775-h.zip *******</p> +<p>This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:<br /> +<a href="https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/7/7/13775">https://www.gutenberg.org/1/3/7/7/13775</a></p> +<p>Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed.</p> + +<p>Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Every Step in Canning + +Author: Grace Viall Gray + +Release Date: October 17, 2004 [eBook #13775] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERY STEP IN CANNING*** + + +E-text prepared by John Hagerson, Kevin Handy, Stephen Schulze, and the +Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team + + + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + +The Cold-Pack Method + +by + +GRACE VIALL GRAY, PH.B., ED.B + +Formerly Associate Professor of Home Economics, +Iowa State College + +1920 + + + + + + + +PREFACE + + +It was six years ago that I first heard of the One Period, Cold-Pack +Method of canning. A little circular was put in my hand one day at a +federated club meeting announcing the fact that in a few weeks there +would be a cold-pack demonstration about fifty miles away. Immediately +I announced that I was going to the demonstrations. So leaving my +small daughter with my mother, I went to the Normal School at DeKalb, +Illinois, and heard and saw for the first time cold-pack canning. + +It is sufficient to say that those three days were so crowded full of +interest and new messages on the gospel of canning that I felt amply +repaid for going fifty miles. As a result of that trip, the first +story ever published on cold-pack canning appeared in _The Country +Gentleman_ and I had the pleasure of writing it. So enthused was I +over this new, efficient and easy way to can not only fruits but hard +vegetables, such as peas, corn and beans, that I wanted to carry the +good news into the kitchen of other busy housewives and mothers. + +My mother had insisted that I take with me my younger sister, just +from college, but with no domestic science tendencies. So, much +against her wishes, preferring rather to do some settlement work, my +sister went with me. The canning was so interesting that for the first +time in her life, my sister became enthusiastic over one phase of +cooking. My mother was so pleased at this zeal that when she received +my sister's letter written from DeKalb, saying, "Mother, I am +enthused about this canning and want to can everything in sight this +summer," she hastily washed all available glass jars and tops and had +everything in readiness for young daughter's return. And we canned. We +were not content to can alone but invited all the neighbors in and +taught them how to can. Our community canned more things and more +unusual things, including the hard vegetables, that year than they had +ever attempted before. + +Do not think for one minute it was all easy sailing, for there were +doubting Thomases, but it only took time and _results_ to convert even +the most skeptical ones. And here I must make a confession. It was +much easier for my sister, unversed in any phase of canning, to master +this new method than it was for me with my four years' training course +and my five years of teaching canning behind me. And this is the +reason. She had nothing to "unlearn," she knew no other method whereas +I had to "unlearn" all my previous methods. + +The one period, cold-pack method is so entirely different from the old +hot pack or open kettle method that to be successful you must forget +all you ever knew and be willing to be taught anew. And right here is +where many women "fall down"--they are not willing to admit that they +know nothing about it and so do not get accurate information about it. +They are so afraid of appearing ignorant. This false feeling is the +greatest obstacle in woman's way. + +I still go into small towns on my lecture trips and women will say, +"Oh, that cold-pack canning isn't new to me. I have used it for thirty +years." And when I show my surprise, they further enlighten me with, +"and my mother used it before me, too." With a little tactful +questioning I usually get these answers: "Of course, I do not hot dip +and cold dip. I never heard of that before. I pack the products into +the cold jars and for all vegetables I use a preserving powder because +there is no way on earth to keep corn and peas and such things unless +you put something into them to keep them. Fruit will keep all right. +Then I cook them in my wash boiler until they are done." And when I +ask, "How do you know when they are done," I invariably get the +answer, "Oh, I take out a jar once in a while and try it." It seems +like such a hopeless task to change all these old-fashioned, +out-of-date methods of cooking but with a great amount of patience and +much actual canning it can usually be done. Not always, of course, for +there are some women who seem to delight in sticking to the old rather +than try the new. + +The present book is therefore designed for all interested in greater +efficiency in the home, including not only students of home economics +but all persons who have charge of homes and are interested in +learning new, efficient, time and labor saving methods. + +In the preparation of this book I have received much help from Mr. +O.H. Benson, Agriculturist in charge of the government Boys' and +Girls' Club Work, and my first instructor in Cold-Pack Canning. I also +wish to acknowledge my appreciation to those who have helped to make +this book possible by contributing information, advice and +encouragement. + +GRACE VIALL GRAY. + +October, 1919. + + + + + CONTENTS + + I. GETTING READY TO CAN + + II. SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + III. HARD FRUITS + + IV. VEGETABLES + + V. SOUPS + + VI. JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + VII. MEAT + + VIII. FISH + + IX. EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + X. INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + XI. WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + XI. I GETTING READY TO DRY + + XIII. HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + XIV. HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + XV. EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + XVI. CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + XVII. PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + XVIII. HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + XIX. HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + + + + +EVERY STEP IN CANNING + + + + +CHAPTER I + +GETTING READY TO CAN + + +Before the World War, housewives had lost the good habit of canning, +preserving and pickling. It was easier to buy California fruits by the +case and canned vegetables by the dozen or half dozen cans, according +to the size of the family. There is no doubt it was cheaper and +decidedly easier to purchase canned fruits, vegetables, greens, soups +and meats than to take time and strength in the very hottest season of +the year to do our own canning. + +But what was true then is not true now. The war taught us thrift. The +crime of wasting even a few tomatoes or berries has sunk into our +minds to stay forever; scientific canning methods have been adopted by +the modern woman. Women who had never canned in days before the war +had to can during war days. Food was so scarce and so high in price +that to buy fancy or even plain canned products was a severe strain on +the average housewife's purse. The American woman, as was to be +expected, came quickly and eagerly to the front with the solution and +the slogan: "More gardens and more canning and preserving at home." + +A great garden and canning movement swept the whole country. As I have +just said, women who had never canned before became vitally interested +in putting up not merely a few jars of this and that, but jars upon +jars of canned fruits, vegetables and greens; and so great was their +delight in the finished products that again and again I heard them +say: "Never again shall we depend upon the grocery to supply us with +canned goods." + +If these women had been obliged to use the same methods that their +grandmothers used before them, they would have canned just the same, +because it was their patriotic duty to do so; but they would have +canned without the enthusiasm and zeal that was so apparent during the +summers of 1917 and 1918. This enthusiasm was a result of new canning +methods, methods unknown to our grandmothers. The women of to-day were +forced into a new field and learned how satisfying and well worth +while the results were. It is safe to guarantee that every +home-canning recruit will become a home-canning veteran. + +The fascination of doing one's own canning after one has learned how +simple and economical it is will be lasting. No one need fear that +home canning is going to suffer because the war ended the immediate +necessity for it. Home canning has come into its own because of the +war, and it has come to stay because of its many merits. + +There are four methods of canning that are employed by women all over +the United States. They are the "open-kettle," the "intermittent," the +"cold-water" and the "cold-pack" methods. + + +DRAWBACKS OF THE OLD METHODS + +The "open-kettle," or "hot-pack," method is the oldest. It was largely +used in the pre-war days. The food is completely cooked in the +preserving kettle, and is then packed into hot, sterilized jars, after +which the jars are sealed. As the packing into the jar is done after +the sterilization has been completed, there is always a possibility of +bacteria and spores entering the jar with the cooked food and the air. +Fruits can be handled successfully in this way, but this method cannot +be used for vegetables, greens and meats. It is a very laborious, hot +and hard way to can. Modern housewives are discarding it more and more +every year and are beginning to place their trust in the newer and far +more scientific methods of canning. + +The "intermittent," or fractional sterilization, method is still +beloved by some people who cling to the sure and hate to venture into +the new. Vegetables can be handled by this method as can all fruits +and meats. It is used rather extensively in the South, where they say +the conditions do not favor "cold-pack." The great objection to this +method of canning is that it requires three periods of sterilization +on three different days and three liftings of jars in and out of the +sterilizer. + +What is sometimes called the "cold-water" method of canning should not +be confused with the "cold-pack" method. The "cold-water" is often +used in connection with the canning of rhubarb, green gooseberries and +a comparatively few other sour berry fruits. If the "cold-water" +method is used we would suggest that the product be thoroughly washed, +placed in a strainer, scalding water poured over it, and the product +then packed at once, in practically a fresh state, in the jars, and +clean, cold water applied until the jars are filled. If these steps +are taken carefully and quickly the method in most cases will be +successful with such acid products as I mentioned. As the products +will have to be cooked before they can be used many housewives do not +consider it any saving of time or labor to follow this method. + + +THE COLD-PACK METHOD + +The method of to-day that came into its own during the war is known as +the "cold-pack" method of canning. It fought a long fight to prove +that it was a very efficient, economical and satisfactory process for +busy housewives to can everything that grows. + +This is the method that I shall mostly refer to in this book, and if I +should omit the phrase "cold-pack" you will know that I am referring +to it. "Cold-pack" simply means that the products are packed cold in +their fresh and natural state in the glass jars or containers. To the +fruits hot sirup is applied; to the vegetables hot water and a little +salt are added. The sterilization is done in the glass jars or tin +containers after they are partly or entirely sealed, making it +practically impossible for bacteria or spores to enter after the +product has once been carefully sterilized or cooked. In following +this method vegetables should first be blanched in boiling water or +live steam, then quickly plunged into cold water and the skins +removed. The products are then packed in containers and sterilized +according to the instructions and recipes given later. + +When we use the term sterilizing we simply mean cooking the product +for a certain period of time after the jar has been filled with food. +It is sometimes called processing. Sterilizing, processing, boiling +and cooking are all interchangeable terms and mean one and the same +thing. + +By this "cold-pack," or cold-fill, method of canning, all food +products, including fruits, vegetables and meats, can be successfully +sterilized in a single period with but one handling of the product in +and out of the canner. + +All the flavor is retained, the product is not cooked to a mushy pulp, +and the labor and time needed for the canning are less than in any +other method. The housewife's canning enemy, mold, is eliminated and +all bacteria and bacterial spores which cause vegetables and meat to +spoil are destroyed. + + +EXPENSIVE OUTFITS NOT ESSENTIAL + +For this "cold-pack" method you can use whatever equipment you have in +the kitchen. Complicated equipment is not essential. Many of us have +purchased commercial outfits, for we know we can turn out more at the +end of a day and have found it well worth while to invest a few +dollars in equipment that enabled us to be more efficient. But if you +are a beginner and do not care to put any money in an unknown venture +use the available things at hand, just to prove to yourself and others +that it can be done. + +Every type of glass jar manufactured can be used except those which +are sealed with wax. So dig into your storerooms, attics and basements +and bring forth all your old jars. If a top is in good condition and +will make a perfect seal when adjusted with a good rubber you can use +that jar. + +If the tops cannot be restored to good condition it is poor economy to +use them. Imperfectly sealed jars are probably responsible for more +spoiled canned goods than any other cause. Good tops and good rubbers +are requisites for good canning. + +For your canner, or sterilizer, you may use a wash boiler or a +galvanized bucket, such as is used for a garbage pail--a new one, of +course. Either is excellent where the family is small and the canning +is accordingly light. Some use the reservoir of the cookstove while +others employ a large vat. If you should have to buy the wash boiler +or pail see that it has a tight-fitting cover and be sure the pail +does not leak. Then all you have to do is to secure what we call a +false bottom, something that will keep the jars of fruit from touching +the direct bottom of the boiler or pail. This false bottom, remember, +is absolutely necessary, for without it the jars will break during the +boiling. + +For this false bottom use a wire netting of half-inch mesh and cut it +to fit the bottom of the sterilizer, whether boiler, pail or bucket. +If you haven't any netting and do not care to purchase it a wooden +bottom can be made to fit the sterilizer, or if that is not available +put thin pieces of wood in the bottom--anything to keep the jars from +coming in direct contact with the bottom of the sterilizer. + +If you have only a small quantity of berries or fruit to can use a +deep saucepan with a tight-fitting cover and a few slats of wood. This +rack is absolutely necessary to keep the contents of the jars from +becoming overheated. Even if they should not break there is a tendency +for part of the contents to escape under the cover and be lost. Do not +use hay, old clothes, newspapers or excelsior for a false bottom; they +are unsatisfactory because they do not allow proper circulation of +water. + +Individual jar holders are very convenient and are preferred by many +women to the racks. Inexpensive racks with handles are on the market +and are worth what they cost in saved nerves and unburned fingers. +Some hold eight jars, others hold twelve. So it just lies with you, +individual housekeeper, whether you want a rack that will hold all +your jars or a set of individual holders that handles them separately. + +To return to the subject of the canner, let me add that no matter what +kind you use, it must be at least three inches deeper than the tallest +jar. This will give room for the rack and an extra inch or two so that +the water will not boil over. + +Besides the canners, the jars, the rubber rings and the rack you will +need one kettle for boiling water, into which the product may be put +for scalding or blanching; another kettle for water--if you haven't +running water--for the "cold dip." + +If you use a homemade rack without handles you should have a jar +lifter of some kind for placing in and removing jars from the canner. +If individual holders are used this is not necessary, as they contain +an upright bail. Some women use a wire potato masher for lifting the +jars out of the canners. Other kitchen equipment, such as scales, +knives, spoons, wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth or muslin for +blanching or scalding the product, and the kitchen clock play their +part in canning. + +No canning powder or any preservative is needed. If the product is +cooked in closed jars in the hot-water bath as directed the food will +be sterilized so that it will keep indefinitely. If it is desired to +add salt, sugar, sirup, vinegar or other flavor this may be done when +the product is packed in the jar. + +A great many people have been led to believe through advertising +matter that it is both safe and practical to use canning compounds for +the preserving of vegetables which have proved hard to keep under the +commonly known methods of canning. The first argument against the use +of a canning compound is that it is unnecessary. It is possible to +sterilize any fruit or vegetable which grows on tree, vine, shrub or +in the ground by this cold-pack, single-period method of canning, +without the use of a compound. The second argument against it is that +many of the canning compounds are positively harmful to health. Some +of them contain as high as ninety-five per cent of boric acid. +Directors of county and state fairs should exclude from entry all +fruits and vegetables that have been preserved in any canning +compound. Perfect fruit can be produced without any chemical +preservative. The third argument is that they are expensive. + +There are many modifications of the original wash boiler and garbage +pail cookers. These are all known as the hot-water-bath outfits. In +these outfits the products are all cooked in boiling water. + +There are condensed-steam cookers under various names, where the +product is cooked in condensed steam. These steamers are generally +used for everyday cookery. + +The water-seal outfit, the steam-pressure outfit and the aluminum +pressure cooker follow in order of efficiency as regards the time +required to sterilize food. + +Following the hot-water canner in simplicity of construction and +manipulation is the water-seal cooker. The temperature of the +hot-water-seal outfit is a little higher than the homemade or +hot-water-bath outfit; so time is saved in the sterilizing. + +The steam-pressure and the pressure cookers are more complicated but +more efficient. Some prefer the aluminum pressure cooker because it +can be used for everyday cooking in the home. + +Pressure cookers are expensive, but they are worth their price, as +they are used daily and not just during the canning season. + +Here are examples of how they rank as to time required: In a +hot-water-bath outfit soft fruits must be sterilized sixteen minutes; +in a steamer, sixteen minutes; in a water-seal outfit, twelve minutes; +in a steam-pressure-outfit under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; in +an aluminum pressure cooker outfit with ten pounds of steam, five +minutes. + +It takes longest to can with a homemade or hot-water-bath outfit; the +shortest and quickest method is with the pressure cooker that has a +pressure of ten pounds or more. Each housewife has different financial +problems, different hours of working and different ways of working. +Where quick work is desired and expense is no item the pressure cooker +is advisable; where money is scarce and time is no object the homemade +outfit answers. Each one must decide which outfit is best for her own +particular case. It matters not which outfit you have--they have all +been thoroughly tested and approved by experts. Each one does the +work. + +This equipment for canning should be in all kitchens: four-quart +kettle for blanching; steamer for steaming greens; colander; quart +measure; funnel; good rubber rings; sharp paring knives; jar opener; +wire basket and a piece of cheesecloth one yard square for blanching; +pineapple scissors; one large preserving spoon; one tablespoon; one +teaspoon; one set of measuring spoons; measuring cup; jar lifter; +either a rack for several jars or individual jar holders; and a clock. + +The manufacturers, realizing that boys and girls must be kept busy +during the vacation months, have made some wonderful devices for +outdoor canning. Would it not be a good plan to buy one for the young +people of your family and give them something definite and worth while +to do in summer? You know little brains and hands must be kept +busy--if not usefully employed they are often inclined to mischief. +This type of cooker furnishes its own heat; so it can be used in the +back yard, in the orchard or under the trees in the front yard. + +Remember that the higher the altitude the lower the degree of heat +required to boil water. Time-tables given in instructions for canning +are usually based upon the requirements of an altitude of 500 feet +above sea level. Generally speaking, for every 4000-foot increase in +altitude it will be well to add twenty per cent to the time required +as given in recipes or time schedules for the canning of all kinds of +fruits, vegetables, greens and meats. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + + +Having decided on your canning outfit, whether you are going to can in +boiling water, in a condensed steam cooker, or in steam under +pressure; having gathered together the necessary tools, such as +spoons, knives and a funnel; having raided the storeroom and collected +some jars, you are now ready for the actual work of canning. + +It is rather unfortunate that strawberries should be one of the very +hardest products to can with good results. The canning itself is +simple--all berries are quickly and easily canned--but strawberries +always shrink, are apt to turn a little brown, and, what distresses us +most of all, they float to the top of the jar. + +The berry's tendency to shrink is responsible for loss of color as +well as its floating qualities. However, if you will be exceedingly +careful to remove the berries from the canner the minute the clock +says the sterilizing period is over, you will have a fairly good +product. Two minutes too long will produce a very dark, shrunken +berry. So be careful of the cooking time. Another thing that makes a +good-looking jar is to pack a quart of berries--all kinds of berries, +not merely strawberries--into a pint jar. If you will get that many in +you will have a much better-looking jar, with very little liquid at +the bottom. It does not hurt the berries at all to gently press down +on them with a silver spoon while you are packing them into the jar. + +We know we are going to get a quart of berries into every pint jar, +so we know just how many quarts of berries we will need to fill the +necessary jars for the next winter's use. + +The first thing to do is to test each jar to see that there are no +cracks, no rough edges to cut the rubber, and to see whether the cover +and clamp fit tightly, if a clamp type of jar is used. The bail that +clamps down the glass tops should go down with a good spring. If it +does not, remove the bail and bend it into shape by taking it in both +hands and pressing down in the middle with both thumbs. Do not bend it +too hard, for if it goes down with too much of a snap it will break +the jar. This testing of the bails should be done every year. The +bails on new jars are sometimes too tight, in which case remove the +bail and spread it out. After the bail has been readjusted, test it +again. The chances are it will be just right. Of course all this +testing takes time, but it pays. + +If you are using some old Mason jars put a rubber on each jar, fill +the jar with hot water, and then put the cover on tight and invert. +This is a sure test for leakage. Never use a Mason cap twice unless +the cover and collar are separate so that both can be completely +sterilized. Fortunately the old-fashioned Mason jar metal cover to +which a porcelain cap is fastened is going out of style. + +If you still have some of these old covers it will be economy to throw +them away. You will be money ahead in the end. After these tops have +been used once it is impossible to make a fastening between the +porcelain and the metal so tight that it is not possible for the +liquid to seep through and cause the contents to spoil. This accounts +for many failures when old tops are used. For this reason never use +the old-fashioned, zinc-topped covers. + +The new and safe Mason jar covers consist of two parts, the metal +collar and the porcelain cap. They are for sale at all grocery or +hardware stores. + +If you are using the vacuum-seal jars which have a composition +attached to the lacquered tops, carefully examine this rubber +composition to see that it is perfect. This composition should go +entirely round the top and should not be cut or broken in any place. +If it is the top must be discarded for a perfect one. + +Of course with this type of jar no rubber rings are necessary, as the +rubber composition on the lacquered top does the sealing. + +It is a wise plan to go round the tops and over the inside of all new +glass jars with a heavy and dull knife to scrape off any slivers of +glass or bursted blisters that may be still clinging to the jars. +Those on the tops cut through the rubber and cause leakage. Those in +the jars may get into the product. I often find these splinters, +particularly on new straight-sided jars. + +It matters not what type of jar you use. Use what you have at hand, +but if you are buying new jars consider the following things before +making your selections: No metal, unless it is enameled or lacquered, +should come in contact with the food. The jars should be of smooth, +well-finished glass. The color of the jar does not affect the keeping +qualities of the food. The top or part of the top that comes in +contact with the contents should be all in one piece, so as not to +offer a place for the accumulation of organisms and dirt. The jars +which have nearly straight sides and a wide mouth or opening are +easier to wash and facilitate better, quicker and easier packing of +the product. + +Wash the jars in soap and water. Rinse in boiling water. Some people +temper new jars so they will stand the shock of hot water or hot sirup +without breaking. If you wish to take this extra precaution put the +jars in a dishpan or kettle of cold water after they have been washed +in soapy water; bring the water slowly to a boil and let it boil +fifteen minutes. After the jars are ready test the rubber rings. This +may seem a useless precaution, but it is a necessary one, for there is +no one detail in the business of canning that is more important. Even +in the best boxes of rubbers there is occasionally a black sheep, and +one black sheep may cause the loss of a jar. + +Test each rubber before you use it by pressing it firmly between the +thumbs and forefingers, stretching it very slightly. If it seems soft +and spongy discard it. All rubbers fit for canning should be firm, +elastic, and should endure a stretching pull without breaking. A good +rubber ring will return promptly to place without changing the inside +diameter. + +A great many women are laboring under the wrong impression that color +affects the quality of a ring. Some women insist on red, and others on +white. Color is given to rings by adding coloring matter during the +manufacturing process. The color of the ring is no index to its +usefulness in home canning. + +Use only fresh, sound strawberries or other berries. There is a little +knack about preparing the strawberries that few housewives know. Hull +the berries by _twisting the berries off the hull_, instead of pulling +the hull from the berry as most women do. You will have a +better-looking berry if you will be careful about this. Place the +berries in a strainer and pour cold water over them to cleanse them. + + +HOW TO ADJUST THE COVERS + +Never allow the berries or any fruit to stand in water, as the flavor +and color are destroyed by water-soaking. Pack in glass jars, pressing +the berries down tightly, but without crushing them. Put the rubber on +the jar if you are using a jar requiring a rubber. Pour hot sirup over +the berries. Put the top of the jar in place, but only partially +tighten it. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, screw down with the +thumb and little finger, not using force but stopping when the cover +catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +In using glass-top jars with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and leave the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while the product is +cooking, because the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is +not loose enough to allow the steam to escape the pressure may blow +the rubber out or break the jar. + +The product is now ready for the canner. + + +STERILIZING + +If you are using the homemade outfit, such as wash-boiler or garbage +pail, all berries and soft fruits are sterilized sixteen minutes; in +all commercial hot-water-bath outfits and in condensed steam, sixteen +minutes; in the water-seal, twelve minutes; in the steam pressure +under five pounds of steam, ten minutes; and in the pressure cooker +under ten pounds of steam, five minutes. Do not allow the pressure to +run above ten pounds for soft fruits; fifteen pounds makes them mushy. + +If you use any type of hot-water-bath outfit be sure the water is +boiling when the fruit is lowered into the canner, and _keep it +boiling_ vigorously for the entire sixteen minutes. At the end of the +sterilizing time, _immediately_ remove the jars from the canner. + +In taking canned goods from boiling water care is needed to see that +they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows and +doors while lifting the jars out, as a sudden draft might break them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes if a cover is +screwed down too tight the pressure of the steam from the inside +causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a thread or +two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. + +In case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber it should be replaced by a new one, and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert the jar to test the joint, then let it cool. If the seal is not +perfect correct the fault and return the jar to the cooker for five +minutes if hot, ten minutes if the jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool, and +then be tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only half an inch, holding it over the +table, so that in case the lid does not hold the jar and contents will +not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the cover with +a rule. An imperfect seal will give a hollow sound. + +As light injures delicately colored fruits and vegetables, it is wise +to store them in dark places, such as cupboards, or basement or attic +shelves protected from the light. Black cambric tacked to the top +shelf and suspended over the other shelves is a sufficient protection +from light. A discarded window shade can be rolled down over the +shelves and easily pulled up when you desire to take a jar from the +shelves. + +Canned goods are best kept at a temperature below seventy degrees +Fahrenheit, where that is at all possible. + + +STEPS IN CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +It might be well to enumerate the steps in berry and soft-fruit +canning, or do what we called in our schooldays "review it": + +1. Get the canner and all its accessories ready. + +2. Test and wash jars and tops and put in water to sterilize. + +3. Test rubber rings. + +4. Make sirup and put in double boiler to keep hot + +5. Prepare the product--hull, seed, stem. + +6. Place berries or fruit in strainer or colander. + +7. Rinse by pouring cold water over product. + +8. Pack from strainer into hot jar. + +9. Use big spoon to get a firm pack. + +10. Dip rubber in hot water to cleanse it and put it in place on the +jar. + +11. Pour the hot sirup over the fruit at once. + +12. Put top of jar on, but not tight. + +13. Ready for canner. + +14. Sterilize for the necessary length of time, according to the +outfit you are using: + + MINUTES + + Hot-water-bath outfit 16 + Condensed-steam outfit 16 + Water-seal outfit 12 + Steam pressure, 5 pounds, outfit 10 + Pressure cooker, 10 pounds, outfit 5 + +15. Remove from canner. + +16. Tighten cover, except vacuum-seal jar, which seals automatically. + +17. Test joint. + +18. Three or four days later, if perfectly air-tight, label and store +in a dark place. + +These steps are followed for strawberries, blackberries, blueberries, +dewberries, huckleberries, gooseberries, raspberries, and for all soft +fruits, such as cherries, currants, grapes and figs. + +The other soft fruits, such as peaches and apricots, which have a +skin, are scalded or "hot dipped" for one to two minutes in boiling +water or steam and are then plunged into cold water. These two steps +of hot-dipping and cold dipping make the removal of skins a very +simple operation. After the skins are removed the fruit is put into +the hot jars and the process continued from Step 8, as with +strawberries. + + +SIRUPS + +Of course you are wondering about the sirups for the different fruits. +There is no set rule for making sirup. It is not necessary to use +sirup in canning fruits. The amount of sugar used in the sirup will +depend upon the individual taste. In a first-class product there +should be enough sirup to improve its flavor, but not enough to make +it take the place in the diet of a sweet preserve rather than a fresh +fruit. + +The sirups are made either with varying proportions of sugar and water +or with the same proportions boiled different lengths of time. What is +known as the California sirup is made with three parts of sugar to two +parts of water, boiled gently to different concentrations. + +Thin Sirup. For a thin sirup take three cups of sugar and two cups +of water. Mix sugar and heat until the sugar is dissolved. This is +used for all sweet fruits not too delicate in texture and color, as +apples, cherries, pears, or for fruits in which more sugar will be +added in preparation for the table. + +Medium Thin Sirup. The sugar and water should be boiled about four +minutes, or until it begins to be sirupy. This is used for +raspberries, peaches, blackberries, currants, etc. + +Medium Thick Sirup. Boil the sugar and water until it will pile up +over the edge of the spoon when it is tipped. This is used for sour or +acid fruits, as plums, gooseberries, apricots, sour apples, and some +of the delicately colored fruits, as strawberries. + +Thick Sirup. The sugar and water are boiled until it will form a +ball in the spoon and cannot be poured from the spoon. This is used +for preserves. + +It is possible to get more, sometimes almost twice as much, sirup +into a quart jar containing large fruits, as apples and pears, than +into a quart jar containing small fruits, as currants or blackberries. + +There is a little knack worth knowing about combining the sugar and +water for the sirup. If the sugar is sifted into the boiling water +just as fine-grained cereals are sifted into water, there will be no +scum formed. This is a saving of sugar. + +If you wish to can strawberries for the market or to win a prize at +the county or state fairs, can them as follows: + +Canned by this recipe, strawberries will not rise to the top of the +sirup. Use only fresh, ripe, firm and sound berries. Prepare them, and +add eight ounces of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water to each +quart of berries. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes in an enameled or +acid-proof kettle. Allow the berries to cool and remain several hours +or over-night in the covered kettle. Pack the cold berries in hot +glass jars. Put rubbers and caps of jars in position, not tight. +Sterilize for the length of time given below for the type of outfit +used: + + MINUTES + Water bath, homemade or commercial 8 + Water seal, 214 degrees 6 + 5 pounds steam pressure 5 + 10 pounds steam pressure. Do not use. + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool and test +the joints. Wrap the jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +HARD FRUITS + + +PINEAPPLES + +The object of canning citrus fruits is, first, to save the surplus and +by-products; second, to furnish wholesome fruits at reasonable cost to +more of our people; third, to help the producer to transform +by-products into net profits. + +Almost every one likes canned pineapple, but some housewives stopped +canning this fruit because they found that when cooked in sirup it +seemed to get tough and less palatable. Vegetable and fruit fibers are +toughened when cooked with sugar for any length of time, so in all +cases where you desire to keep the product as Nature grew it avoid +this form of cooking. + +When the product is put into the jars with a sirup and cooked in the +jar you will have a product superior to the one that is cooked over +the direct fire in the kettle with the sirup. + +But pineapple slices or pieces are so hard they cannot be put directly +into the jars as berries are. Pineapples must undergo a preliminary +process to make them palatable and soft. This preliminary process is +known in canning as "blanching." + +After the pineapple has been prepared by paring and removing the eyes, +it can be left in slices or cut into cubes. In cutting hold the +pineapple at the top and use a sharp knife. It is then placed in a +wire basket or a piece of cheesecloth for the blanching. Blanching +means to immerse the product in boiling water for a certain length of +time to reduce its bulk and soften it. + +Pineapples are blanched for five minutes. We scald peaches and +apricots, which are soft fruits; but we blanch pineapples, apples and +quinces, the hard fruits. + +Scalding means to immerse the product in boiling water for a very +short time--just long enough to loosen the skins. Blanching is just a +longer period of scalding. + +When you blanch pineapples use only enough water to cover them. This +same blanching water can be used for making the sirup. It contains +much of the pineapple flavor and there is no reason for discarding it. +But this is absolutely the only blanching water that is ever used. All +other blanching water, particularly that in which vegetables are +blanched, is full of objectionable acids that we want to get rid of, +so under no circumstances must it be used. But with pineapples the +object of blanching is primarily to soften the hard fiber, so there is +no objection to using the blanching water. + +After the pineapple has been in the covered kettle of boiling water +for five minutes, it is held under cold water until cool enough to +handle. Never let it soak in cold water, as that will impair its +delicate flavor. After this it is packed into hot sterilized jars. +Rubber rings are put on the jars, the covers are put in place--not +tight--and the jars are put in the canner. + +Pineapple is sterilized for thirty minutes in a hot-water-bath outfit; +thirty minutes in a condensed steam outfit; twenty-five minutes in the +water-seal; twenty-five minutes in the steam pressure under five +pounds of steam, and eighteen minutes in the pressure cooker under ten +pounds of pressure. At the end of the sterilizing period the jars are +removed, the covers completely tightened and the joints carefully +tested for leakage. + +A thin or medium-thin sirup is best for pineapples. Measure the +blanching water and to every two cups of it add three cups of sugar. +If you wish the sirup thin heat until the sugar is dissolved. If +medium-thin sirup is desired, boil it about four minutes or until it +begins to be sirupy. + + +STEPS IN CANNING PINEAPPLE + +1. Cut the pineapple into slices of desired thickness. + +2. Pare the slices. It is easier to pare the slices than to pare the +whole pineapple. + +3. Remove the eyes, using pineapple scissors to facilitate the work. + +4. Blanch pineapple for five minutes in a small amount of boiling +water, using a wire basket or cheesecloth. + +5. Cold-dip the pineapple. + +6. Make a sirup, using the blanching water. Make a thin or medium-thin +sirup. + +7. Pack the pineapple into hot sterilized jars, with good rubbers on +them. + +8. Pour the sirup over the pineapple. + +9. Put the tops of the jars on--not tight. + +10. Sterilize for 30 minutes in hot-water-bath outfit, 30 minutes in +condensed-steam outfit, 25 minutes in water-seal outfit, 25 minutes in +steam pressure (5 pounds), 18 minutes in pressure cooker (10 pounds). + +11. Remove from canner, tighten covers and inspect rubber and joints. + + +APPLES + +Here are six ways in which canned apples may be used: as a breakfast +dish, with cream and sugar; baked like fresh apples; in apple salad, +often served for lunch or supper; as a relish with roast pork--the +apples may be fried in the pork fat or the cores may be cooked with +roast pork for flavoring; and for apple dumplings, deep apple pie and +other desserts in which whole apples are desirable. The sirup of +canned whole apples can be used for pudding sauces or fruit drinks. + +Apples are another hard fruit which require blanching, as it greatly +improves their texture and appearance. + +Apples and some other fruits, such as pears and quinces, have a +tendency to turn brown when allowed to stand after they are cut. To +prevent their discoloring the pieces may be dropped into mild salt +water as they are pared and sliced. Let them stand for five minutes, +then wash them in clear water and pack. Use a thin sirup for canning +apples. + +Summer apples are not firm enough to keep well when canned. They cook +up and lose flavor. They may, however, be canned to be used in a short +time. Windfall apples may be pared, cored and sliced, using water, and +only a small quantity of that, instead of sirup, and canned for pies. + +To be able to can windfall and cull apples and thus have them for home +use through the entire year is a great advantage to all farmers who +grow them. They can be sold on the market canned when they would not +bring a cent in the fresh state. + +The windfall and cull apples may be divided into two grades. The +first grade would include the whole reasonably sound fruit; the second +grade the worm-eaten, partially decayed and injured fruit. Do not can +any injured or decayed part nor allow apples to become overripe before +canning. + +Canning Whole Reasonably Firm Apples. Wash the apples. Remove cores +and blemishes. Place whole apples in blanching tray or blanching cloth +and blanch in boiling hot water for one or two minutes. Remove and +plunge quickly into cold water. Pack in large glass jars. Pour over +the product a hot thin sirup. Place rubber and top in position. Seal +partially--not tight. + +Sterilize jars twenty minutes in hot-water-bath outfit and in +condensed steam, fifteen minutes in water-seal, ten minutes in +steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of steam pressure, five minutes +in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit, under ten pounds of steam +pressure. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. + +Firm and tart apples may be cored and peeled first, then canned by the +above recipe. + +Canning Apples for Pie Filling. Use second grade of windfalls or +culls. Wash, core, pare and remove all decayed spots. Slice apple +quickly into a basin containing slightly salted cold water--about one +tablespoon of salt per gallon--to prevent discoloring. Pack fresh cold +product in glass jars. Add one cupful of hot thin sirup to each quart +of fruit. Put on the rubbers and screw on tops, but do not seal +completely. Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ten minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes +under five pounds of steam pressure; four minutes in aluminum +pressure cooker. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +joint. Store. + +This filling can be used for making apple pies in the same way that +fresh apples would be used, with the exception that the sirup must be +poured off and less sugar should be used. Since the apples have +already been cooked, only enough heat is needed to cook the crust and +to warm the apples through. Pies may be baked in seven minutes. The +apple pies made with these apples are, in the opinion of many +housekeepers, as good as those made with fresh fruit, and they can be +made in less time and are less expensive. + +The only difference between canning apples for pies and salads or +whole is that when wanted for pies the apples should be sliced +immediately after placing in cold slightly salted water. + +Canning Quartered Apples for Fruit Salads. Select best-grade culls +of firm and rather tart varieties. Core, pare and quarter. Drop into +basin containing slightly salted cold water. Pack these quartered +pieces tightly in jars. Add a cup of hot thin sirup to each quart. +Place rubber and top in position, partially seal--not tight. Sterilize +twelve minutes in hot-water bath and condensed-steam outfits; ten +minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes under five pounds of steam +pressure; four minutes in aluminum pressure cooker. Remove jars, +tighten covers, invert to cool and test joints. Store. + + +ORANGES + +Canning Whole Oranges and Other Citrus Fruits. Select windfall or +packing-plant culls. Use no unsound or decayed fruit. Remove skin and +white fiber on surface. Blanch fruit in boiling water one and a half +minutes. Dip quickly in cold water. Pack containers full. Add boiling +hot thin sirup. Place rubber and cap in position and partially +seal--not tight. + +Sterilize twelve minutes in hot-water-bath and condensed-steam +outfits; eight minutes in water-seal outfit; six minutes in +steam-pressure outfit under five pounds of steam; four minutes in +aluminum pressure-cooker outfit. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert +to cool and test joints. Wrap glass jars with paper to prevent +bleaching, and store. + +Canning Sliced Oranges for Salad Purposes. The oranges may be +divided into their natural sections or sliced with a knife. Pack jars +or containers full. Pour over product hot thin sirup. Place rubber and +cap in position. Partially seal--not tight. Sterilize ten minutes in +hot-water-bath and condensed-steam outfits; six minutes in water-seal +outfit; five minutes in steam-pressure outfit with five pounds of +steam; four minutes in aluminum pressure-cooker outfit under ten +pounds of steam. Remove jars, tighten covers, invert to cool and test +the joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching, and store. + + +PEARS, QUINCES AND RHUBARB + +Pears are prepared and canned just as the whole firm apples are, being +blanched a minute and a half, cold-dipped and sterilized for the same +length of time as apples. + +Quinces are so very hard they must be blanched like pineapples, but +for a longer time. Six minutes' blanching is usually sufficient for +quinces. The sterilizing period can be determined by looking at the +chart. + +If skins are left on rhubarb it keeps its pink color. The hot dip is +not necessary and may be omitted. It removes some of the excessive +acid in the rhubarb which makes it objectionable to some people. Be +very careful not to hot-dip the rhubarb more than one minute, for it +gets mushy. An advantage of the hot dip is that more rhubarb can be +packed in a jar after it has been hot-dipped. + + +WHAT A BUSHEL OF FRUIT WILL YIELD + +A great many women have no conception of how many jars of fruit they +will get from a bushel or half bushel of produce. It is wise to have a +little knowledge along this line, for it aids in planning the winter's +supply of canned goods as well as at marketing time. + +From one bushel of the various fruits you will get on the average the +following: + + PRODUCTS, 1 BUSHEL PINT JARS QUART JARS + + Windfall apples 30 20 + + Standard peaches 25 18 + + Pears 45 30 + + Plums 45 30 + + Berries 50 30 + + Windfall oranges--sliced 22 15 + + Windfall oranges--whole 35 22 + + +CANNING WITHOUT SUGAR + +Though all instructions indicate that sugar is necessary for the +canning of all kinds of fruits, it is not necessary for their proper +sterilization and preservation. Any fruit may be successfully +sterilized by simply adding boiling water instead of the hot sirup. It +is a well-known fact, however, that most fruits canned in water will +not retain so well their natural flavor, texture and color as fruit +canned in sirup. When the product is to be used for pies, salads, and +so on it is not necessary to can in sirup. When fruits canned in water +are to be used for sauces, the products should be sweetened before +use. In many instances it requires more sugar to sweeten a sauce after +canning than it does when the product is canned in the hot sirup. + +However, during the World War we had a good chance to test the fruits +which we canned without sugar, when that commodity was scarce and, in +fact, impossible to get in very large quantities. We used our fruits +just as they were and considered them very good. This all goes to show +that we can easily adjust ourselves to prevailing conditions. In +canning without the sugar sirup, you would follow these directions: + +Cull, stem or seed, and clean fruit by placing in a strainer and +pouring water over it until clean. Pack product thoroughly in glass +jars until full; use table knife or tablespoon for packing purposes. +Pour over the fruit boiling water from kettle, place rubbers and caps +in position, partially seal glass jars and place produce in canner. + +If using hot-water-bath outfit sterilize from twenty to thirty +minutes. After sterilizing remove packs, seal glass jars, wrap in +paper to prevent bleaching, and store in a dry cool place. + +When using a steam-pressure canner instead of the hot-water bath +sterilize for ten minutes with five pounds of steam pressure. Never +allow the pressure to go over ten pounds when you are canning soft +fruits. + + +WHEN TO CAN + +Inexperienced canners may not know when certain fruits are in season +and at their prime for canning. The list below is necessarily subject +to change, as seasons vary from year to year; but in normal years this +table would hold true for the Northern States. + + Apples September + Apricots August + Blackberries August + Cherries July + Currants July + Gooseberries July + Grapes September + Huckleberries July + Peaches August-September + Pears September + Pineapple June + Plums August + Quinces September + Raspberries July + Rhubarb All summer + Strawberries May-June + +For your canning you will need as your guide the charts on the pages +which follow. They are very simple and will tell you how to prepare +all the various fruits, whether or not they are to be blanched, and if +so exactly how many minutes, and how long to cook or sterilize the +products, according to the outfit you are using. + + + +CHART FOR CANNING SOFT FRUITS AND BERRIES + +[A] NUMBER OF MINUTES TO BLANCH OR HOT-DIP +[B] IN HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212 deg.F +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214 deg.F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + KIND OF | [A] |[B] |[C] |[D] |[E] |[F] |REMARKS + FRUIT/PREPARATION | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + APRICOTS: To remove|1 to 2| 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + skins hot-dip and | | | | | | |medium-thick + cold-dip. Can be | | | | | | |sirup + canned with the | | | | | | | + skins. Pits give a | | | | | | | + good flavor | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + BLACKBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + BLUEBERRIES: Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CHERRIES: Wash, | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + remove stems, and | | | | | | |sirup if sour; + remove pits if | | | | | | |thin sirup if + desired. If pitted | | | | | | |sweet + save the juice | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + CURRANTS: Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + CRANBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + DEWBERRIES: Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + FIGS: Wash and stem| None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Figs can be + | | | | | | |hot- dipped for + | | | | | | |a minute or two + | | | | | | |if desired. + | | | | | | |Hot-dipping + | | | | | | |shrinks the + | | | | | | |figs so more + | | | | | | |can be packed + | | | | | | |in a jar + | | | | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + and snip off stems | | | | | | |medium-thick + and blossom ends | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + GRAPES Wash and | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + pick from stems | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + HUCKLEBERRIES Wash | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + and stem | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + PEACHES Blanch and | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 |*10 | X |*Use only 5 + cold-dip, then | | | | | | |pounds + remove skins. | | | | | | |pressure. If + | | | | | | |peaches are + | | | | | | |canned under + | | | | | | |more than 5 + | | | | | | |pounds of + | | | | | | |pressure they + | | | | | | |become + | | | | | | |flavorless and + | | | | | | | + PLUMS Wash; stones | 1-2 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |For sweet plums + may be removed if | | | | | | |use thin or + desired. | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup; for sour + | | | | | | |plums use + | | | | | | |medium-thin + | | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RASPBERRIES pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use medium-thin + over, wash and stem| | | | | | |sirup + | | | | | | | + RHUBARB Wash, cut | 1 | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Be very careful + into 1/2 inch pieces.| | | | | | |not to hot-dip + Use sharp knife | | | | | | |the rhubarb + | | | | | | |more than one + | | | | | | |minute, for it + | | | | | | |gets mushy + | | | | | | | + STRAWBERRIES Pick | None | 16 | 16 | 12 | 10 | 5 |Use + over, wash and hull| | | | | | |medium-thick + | | | | | | |sirup + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + HARD FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + | | | | | | | + APPLES Pare, core |11/2 to | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + and cut into halves| 2 | | | | | | + or smaller pieces | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PEARS Wash, pare or| 11/2 | 20 | 20 | 15 | 10 | 5 |Use thin sirup + not as desired. | | | | | | | + Small pears may be | | | | | | | + canned whole or | | | | | | | + quartered | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + PINEAPPLE Cut into | 5 | 30 | 30 | 25 | 25 | 18 |Use thin or + slices or inch | | | | | | |medium-thin + cubes. The cores | | | | | | |sirup + can be removed | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUINCES Remove | 6 | 40 | 40 | 30 | 25 | 20 |Apples, pears + skins and cores. | | | | | | |and quinces + Cut into convenient| | | | | | |should be + slices | | | | | | |dropped into + | | | | | | |salt water to + | | | | | | |keep fruit from + | | | | | | |turning brown. + | | | | | | |Use salt in the + | | | | | | |proportion of + | | | | | | |one + | | | | | | |tablespoonful + WINDFALL APPLES FOR| | | | | | |to one gallon + | | | | | | |of water. Use + | | | | | | |thin + | | | | | | | + PIE FILLING Cut | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + into halves | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + QUARTERED APPLES | None | 12 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 4 |Can in water + FOR SALAD | | | | | | |and save the + | | | | | | |sugar for other + | | | | | | |purposes + | | | | | | | + CRAB APPLES Pare | None | 16 | 16 | 8 | 5 | 5 |Can in water or + and core | | | | | | |use thin sirup + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + CITRUS FRUITS | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + ORANGES, WHOLE | 11/2 | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + LEMONS, WHOLE | 11/2 | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT, WHOLE | 11/2 | 12 | 12 | 8 | 6 | 4 |Add boiling + Remove skins and | | | | | | |thin sirup + white fiber or | | | | | | | + surface, then | | | | | | | + blanch | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + ORANGE AND OTHER | None | 10 | 10 | 6 | 5 | 4 |Use thin sirup + CITRUS FRUITS, | | | | | | | + SLICED Slice with a| | | | | | | + sharp knife | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + FRUITS CANNED IN | 30 | 30 | 20 | 12 | 10 | | + WATER WITHOUT SUGAR| | | | | | | + SIRUP | | | | | | | + | | | | | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + +NOTE.--When cooking products in pint or half-pint jars deduct three or +four minutes from the time given above. When cooking in two-quart jars +add 3 or 4 minutes to time. The estimates given are for quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +VEGETABLES + + +It is practical to can all vegetables, even such difficult ones as +corn, peas and beans, by the cold-pack method of canning without using +any preservatives, if you will follow all directions, instructions and +the time-table accurately. Vegetable canning is a little more +complicated than fruit canning. + + +TOMATOES + +Every one likes canned tomatoes. In many homes more tomatoes are +canned than any other product. The housewife uses them for soups, for +sauces and for seasoning many meat dishes. Some women say: "I can +preserve everything but tomatoes. They always spoil. What do I do +wrong?" If the following directions are followed tomatoes will not +spoil. + +Tomatoes really are the easiest vegetable to can, because the period +of sterilization is short, and many jars may be canned in a day, or if +one is very busy a few jars may be canned daily without the +expenditure of a great deal of time. + +The best tomatoes for canning are those of moderate size, smooth and +uniformly ripe. When a tomato ripens unevenly or when it is misshapen, +it is difficult to peel, and the percentage of waste is high. Tomatoes +should not be picked when they are green or partly ripe, for the +flavor will not be so good as when they are allowed to remain upon +the vines until fully ripe. Care should be taken, however, not to +allow them to become overripe before canning. + +In no instance should a tomato with a rotten spot be canned, even +though the spot is cut out, for the occasional spoiled jar resulting +from this attempted saving will cost more than the partly spoiled +tomatoes are worth. If the housewife will can only uniformly ripe, +sound tomatoes, saving the small, uneven but sound fruit for tomato +_puree_, she will have a much better-looking pack and greater food +value at the close of the season. Yellow tomatoes may be canned in the +same manner as are the more common red varieties, except that it is +not necessary to remove the cores. + +First of all, grade for ripeness, size and quality; this is to insure +a high-grade product. We could, of course, can different sizes and +shades together, but uniform products are more pleasing to the eye and +will sterilize much more evenly. If the products are of the same +ripeness and quality, the entire pack will receive the proper degree +of cooking. + +Wash the tomatoes. Have ready a kettle of boiling water. Put the +tomatoes in a wire basket, or lay them on a piece of cheesecloth or a +towel, twist the ends together to form a sack, and let this down into +the kettle. It is a good plan to slip a rubber band round the neck of +this sack to hold the ends in place. The ends should be long enough to +stand up out of the water and so avoid danger of burning the fingers +when removing the product. + +Have the water boiling hard. Lower the tomatoes into the boiling +water. This is called scalding the tomatoes. We scald the tomatoes to +loosen the skin. If the tomatoes are very ripe, one minute scalding +will be sufficient. The average length of time for tomatoes, just +perfect for canning, is one and a half minutes. Do not leave the +tomatoes in the hot water until the skins break, as this gives them a +fuzzy appearance. + +The scalding kettle always should be covered, to keep in all the heat +possible. Begin to time from the minute the product is immersed in the +boiling water. If you wait until the water comes back to a boil, you +will scald the product too long and have mushy tomatoes. + +Lift the tomatoes out of the hot water and plunge them immediately +into cold water, or hold them under the cold-water faucet. The +cold-dip makes them easier to handle, separates the skin from the +pulp, firms the texture, and coagulates the coloring matter so it +stays near the surface, giving them a rich, red color. Then the shock +due to the sudden change from hot to cold and back to hot again seems +to help kill the spores. Do not let the product stand in the cold-dip. +The water becomes lukewarm, softens the product and allows bacteria to +develop. + +Take the tomato in the left hand and with a sharp knife cut out the +core. Be careful not to cut into the fleshy portion or seed cells, for +this will scatter the seeds and pulp through the liquid, injuring the +appearance of the product. Cut out the core before removing the skin, +for the skin will protect the pulp and there will be less danger of +breaking the tomato. If the tomatoes are ripe and have been scalded +properly, the skin can be slipped off with the fingers. + +The jars, rubbers and tops should be ready. Glass jars should be hot, +so there will be no danger of breakage in setting them in the hot +water, and so they will not cool the water in the cooker below the +boiling point. + +Pack the tomatoes whole, pressing and shaking them well down together, +but not using force enough to crush them. + +Now we come to a point where tomatoes are different from most +vegetables. Beans, carrots, peas, and so on, have hot water added to +them. But as a large part of the tomato is water, no more is needed. +Another exception where no water is needed is with the "greens +family." So with tomatoes we add no water, but add one teaspoonful of +salt and one teaspoonful of sugar, just for seasoning, to every quart +jar. I think that tomatoes always are improved by the addition of a +little sugar, but this is not necessary and can be omitted, as also +can be the salt. + +The salt in canning does not act as a preservative, but as seasoning; +so if for any reason you forget the salt, do not be alarmed. Your +products will keep perfectly without the salt. + + +THE WAY TO SEAL + +The products are in the hot jars now. The jars do not need to be full +in order to keep. If you were canning by the "open-kettle" method, the +air in the partly filled jar would not have been sterilized, and might +contain the bacteria which cause the product to ferment or mold. But +by the cold pack, the air in the can is sterilized while the product +is being sterilized; and if the can is closed immediately after +cooking, a single spoonful may be canned in a two-quart jar and the +product will keep indefinitely. + +Place Rubber and Cover on Jar. Fit the rubber. Use good rubbers and +see that they lie flat and fit close up to the can. Put the covers in +place. + +Do Not Seal Glass Jars Tight. If using screw-top jars screw each +cover down until it catches, then turn a quarter of a round back; or +screw down with the thumb and little finger, not using force but +stopping when the cover catches. + +If using vacuum-seal jars put the cover on and the spring in place. +The spring will give enough to allow the steam to escape. + +If using glass-top jars, with the patent wire snap, put the cover in +place, the wire over the top and the clamp up. + +The cover on a glass jar must not be tight while processing, because +the air will expand when heated, and if the cover is not loose enough +to allow the steam to escape, the pressure may blow the rubber out or +break the jar. + +When canning in tin we cap and tip the cans at once. The tin will +bulge out, but is strong enough to withstand the pressure, and when +the contents cool the can will come back into shape. + +The jars are now ready for the canner. Tomatoes sterilized under +boiling water require twenty-two minutes; in condensed-steam cooker, +twenty-two minutes; in water-seal, eighteen minutes; in +steam-pressure, with five pounds, fifteen minutes, and in the pressure +cooker, at ten or fifteen pounds, ten minutes. + +If you use the homemade outfit or any water-bath outfit be sure the +water is boiling when the jars of tomatoes are lowered into the +canner. Time lost in bringing the contents to the point of +sterilization softens the tomatoes and results in inferior goods. Use +the ordinary good sense with which you have been endowed in handling +the jars and you will have no breakage. At the end of the sterilizing +period, remove the jars. + +In taking canned goods from boiling hot water, care is needed to see +that they are protected from drafts. If necessary close the windows +and doors while lifting the jars out, for a sudden draft might break +them. + +Examine rubbers to see that they are in place. Sometimes, if the +covers are screwed down too tight, the pressure of the steam from the +inside causes the rubber to bulge out. Simply loosen the cover a +thread or two, push the rubber back into place and then tighten. In +case the rubber does not seem to fit well or seems to be a poor +rubber, it should be replaced by a new one and the jar returned to the +cooker for five minutes. + +The jars should be sealed tight--covers screwed down, clamps put in +place--immediately after they are removed from the cooker. + +Invert to test the joint and cool. If the seal is not perfect, correct +the fault, and return the jar to the cooker for five minutes if hot, +ten minutes if jar is cold. + +Do not invert vacuum-seal jars. These should be allowed to cool and +then tested by removing the spring or clamp and lifting the jars by +the cover only. Lift the jar only a half inch, holding it over the +table so that, in case the lid does not hold, the jar and contents +will not be damaged. Or, better still, tap round the edge of the +cover with a ruler. An imperfect seal will cause a hollow sound. + +Tomato Puree. Small, misshapen, unevenly ripened tomatoes may be +converted into tomato _puree_. The tomatoes should be washed, run +through a colander to remove skins and cores, concentrated by cooking +to about half the original volume, and packed in the jars. Rubbers and +tops should then be placed in position and the product sterilized for +the same length of time as for canned tomatoes. _Puree_ even may be +kept in bottles sealed with sterilized corks and dipped several times +in paraffin. + + +HOW OTHER VEGETABLES ARE CANNED + +All other vegetables are canned exactly like tomatoes, with two +exceptions. Tomatoes are scalded. All other vegetables are blanched. +We scald tomatoes to loosen the skins and to start the flow of the +coloring matter, which is later arrested or coagulated by the +cold-dip. + +Blanching is scalding, only for a longer time. Scalding is never for +more than two minutes. Blanching covers from three to thirty minutes. + +We blanch beans, peas, corn, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, and so +on, for three to ten minutes. We blanch these vegetables to eliminate +any objectionable acids or bitter flavors which may be present, and +thus improve the flavor; to reduce the bulk so we can pack closer; to +start the flow of the coloring matter; to improve the texture of the +vegetables by making them more tender, and to improve the appearance +by helping to make clear the liquid in the jar. Blanching is what +makes for success in the cold-pack method of canning. Blanching is +_very_ important and must be carefully and accurately done. + +Let me repeat about blanching: Have the kettle of blanching water +_boiling vigorously, completely immerse_ the product in the boiling +water, cover the kettle _immediately_ and begin to time the product. +Do not stand with the cover in hand and wait for the water to come +back to the boil, for, of course, it stopped boiling for a second when +you lowered into it the cold product. If you cover the kettle the +water will quickly reboil. Do not keep wondering if it is boiling and +take off the cover to see. All these may seem foolish precautions, but +it is necessary to follow directions accurately. + +And remember, all things that are scalded or blanched must be followed +immediately by a cold plunge or "cold-dip." The scalding or blanching +is the "hot-dip," and this must be followed by the "cold-dip." You may +be asking, what is the point of this "cold-dip"? It is a very logical +question. + +We "cold-dip" a product to harden the pulp under the skin and thus +permit the removal of the skin without injury to the pulp; to +coagulate the coloring matter and make it harder to dissolve during +the sterilization period and to make it easier to handle the products +in packing, and to subject the product to a sudden shock by quick +change in temperature. + + +STEPS IN CANNING VEGETABLES + +If you will follow these steps for all vegetable canning you cannot +help but be successful: + +1. Clean jars and test rubbers. If rubbers do not return to normal +shape after stretching, do not use. + +2. Prepare material to be canned, according to directions given on +chart. + +3. Hot-dip--blanch or scald--the prepared food. This process consists +of immersing the prepared product in boiling water for different +lengths of time, according to the material to be canned. See chart. +Hot-dipping shrinks the product and enables one to pack more material +in a jar. + +4. Cold-dip the material. This process consists of plunging the +blanched or scalded food into cold water, which makes it more easily +handled. Be sure the water is cold; the colder the better. + +Take the product out immediately and let it drain. _Don't let any food +soak in the cold water._ + +From this point on, speed is highly important. The blanched vegetables +which are slightly warm must not be allowed to remain out of the jars +a moment longer than is necessary. + +Remove skins when required, and as each article is pared cut it into +pieces of proper size and + +5. Pack directly into the clean, scalded cans or jars. Pack as solidly +as possible, being careful not to bruise or mash soft products. Pack +the product to within three-eighths of an inch of the top. Lima beans, +navy beans, peas, corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell, so pack them +within only one inch of the top of the jar. + +6. Add seasoning. One teaspoonful salt to every quart jar of +vegetables, and an equal amount of sugar to tomatoes, corn and peas if +desired. + +7. Add boiling water to within a quarter inch of top to all +vegetables, except tomatoes and greens. Tomatoes contain ninety-four +per cent water, so none should be added. Tomato juice can be used if +desired. Greens are canned in just the water that clings to the +leaves after the cold-dip. + +8. Adjust rubber rings and the covers of the jars; partially seal. + +9. Sterilize--see time-table on pages following. + +10. Remove from canner and completely seal. Test for leaks. Cool jars +as rapidly as possible, without drafts striking them. + +Rapid cooling of the product prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture of the product. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR VARIOUS VEGETABLES + +Greens. No water is added to greens. Ninety percent of greens is +water. They are high in mineral matter and we must preserve that. + +Asparagus. Remove string before packing in jar. Can or dry tough ends +for soup. If asparagus is packed in jars as whole stalks, pack with +the tips up. + +Tomatoes. Remove skins before packing. Tomatoes may be canned whole or +in pieces. Skin, cook and strain imperfect tomatoes. Use this for +liquid; as 94 per cent of the tomato is water, no water is needed. + +Eggplants. Make slices about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch thick. Do not add salt, +as it causes eggplants to turn dark. + +Pumpkin and squash. If you do not wish to scrape out of the shells you +can remove seeds, pare and cut into small blocks of uniform size. Then +blanch. + +Sweet corn. Corn expands a little in processing, and for this reason +jars should not be filled quite full. Corn that has reached the dough +stage before being packed will have a cheesy appearance after +canning. Corn should never be allowed to remain in the cold-dip water. + +Field corn. This product is commonly known as corn-club breakfast +food. The corn should be selected between the milk and the dough +stage. Wide-mouthed glass jars or tin cans should be used for canning +this product. Avoid packing container too full, as the product swells +during the sterilization period. The corn should be canned the same +day it is picked from the field if possible. After this product has +been sterilized and cooked and stored away it will form a solid, +butter-like mass which may be cut into convenient slices for toasting, +frying and baking purposes. + +Mushrooms. Do not fail to blanch and cold dip. After opening +containers remove the mushrooms immediately and use them as quickly as +possible. + +Sweet peppers. Place the peppers in the oven and bake them until the +skins separate from the meat. Remove the skin. Pack in hot jars. Add 1 +teaspoonful of salt to a quart. Add boiling water. + +Lima beans. Lima beans can be either blanched or steamed. If blanched +allow 5 minutes; if in live steam allow 10. + +Wax or string beans. Beans can be canned whole or cut into uniform +pieces. + +Cabbage and cauliflower. Cabbage and cauliflower should be soaked in +cold brine (1/2 lb. salt to 12 quarts water) for one hour before +blanching. + +Brussels sprouts. Use small solid heads. + +Peas. A cloudy or hazy appearance of the liquid indicates that the +product was roughly handled in blanching and cold dipping, or that +broken peas were not removed before packing. + +Carrots and parsnips. Carrots can be packed whole, in slices or in +cross-section pieces. Skin of parsnips can be scraped off after +blanching and cold dipping. + +Beets. Small beets that run 40 to a quart are the most suitable size +for first-class packs. Well-canned beets will show a slight loss of +color when removed from the canner, but will brighten up in a few +days. + +Turnips. Scrape skin after blanching and cold dipping. + +Corn and tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt to every quart of +mixture. Mix 2 parts of tomatoes with 1 part corn. One teaspoonful of +sugar improves the flavor. + +Corn, tomatoes and string beans. Use 1 part of corn, 1 part of green +string beans and 3 parts of tomatoes. Add 1 teaspoonful of salt and 1 +teaspoonful of sugar to every quart jar. + +CHARTS FOR CANNING ALL VEGETABLES AND GREENS + +[A] SCALDING OR BLANCHING MINUTES +[B] IN BOILING WATER OR HOMEMADE OUTFIT (212 deg.F.) +[C] IN CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT +[D] IN WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214 deg.F +[E] IN STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS +[F] IN PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + VEGETABLES/ NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 1--Greens, Domestic and Wild +-------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ALL GREENS--SPINACH, |Steam in | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at +BEET TOPS, CHARD, |colander or | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|1-1/2 | (1 hr)|10 lbs. +DANDELIONS, ETC. |in steamer | | | hr | | + Pick over; wash in |until wilted| | | | | + several waters. |Takes about | | | | | + |15 minutes. | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + Class 2 --Special Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +ASPARAGUS |Blanch tough| 90 | 90 | 60 | 50 |25, at + Wash, remove woody |ends 4 |1-1/2 |1-1/2 | (1 hr)| |10 lbs. + ends; cut to fit |minutes, tip| hr | hr | | | + jar; tie in bundles.|ends 2 | | | | | + | minutes. | | | | | + | | | | | | +TOMATOES Select |Scald 1-1/2 | 22 | 22 | 18 | 18 |10, at + fresh, ripe, firm | | | | | |10 lbs. + tomatoes. Skins | | | | | | + will slip off after| | | | | | + scalding and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +EGGPLANTS Remove skin| Blanch 3 | 60 | 60 | 50 | 45 |30, at + after blanching | | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |10 lbs. + and cold dipping. | | | | | | + Slice crosswise and| | | | | | + pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +PUMPKIN AND SQUASH | Blanch 5 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections; | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|1-1/2 | (1 hr)|10 lbs. + remove seeds; | | | | hr | | + scrape shells after| | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--SWEET | 5 on cob | 180 | 180 | 120 | 90 |60, at + Cut corn from cob, | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)|1-1/2 |10 lbs. + blanch immediately | | | | | ht | + after and cold dip.| | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN--FIELD | 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |50, at + Remove husk and | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + silk. Cut the corn | | | | | | + from the cob after | | | | | | + it has been blanched| | | | | | + and cold dipped. | | | | | | + Feed the corn to a | | | | | | + food chopper and | | | | | | + grind to a pulp. | | | | | | + Cook this product | | | | | | + in a kettle, add | | | | | | + 2/3 teaspoonful | | | | | | + sugar and 1/3 | | | | | | + teaspoonful salt to| | | | | | + each quart. Cook | | | | | | + (stir while cooking)| | | | | | + until the product | | | | | | + has assumed a | | | | | | + thickened or | | | | | | + pastelike mass. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +MUSHROOMS If small, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 50 |30, at + can them whole; if | |1-1/2 |1-1/2 |(1-1/3 | |10 lbs. + large they may be | | hr | hr | hr) | | + cut into sections. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +SWEET PEPPERS Use | .. | 90 | 90 | 75 | 60 |40, at + either green or red| |1-1/2 |1-1/2 |1-3/4 | (1 hr)|10 lbs. + peppers. | | ht | ht | hr | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 3--Pod Vegetables and Other Green Products +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +BEANS--LIMA | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. | | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | | | +BEANS--WAX OR STRING | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Wash and string. | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|1-1/2 | (1 hr)|10 lbs. + | | | | hr | | +CABBAGE Use small | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + solid heads of | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|1-1/2 | (1 hr)|10 lbs. + cabbage. | | | | hr | | + | | | | | | +CAULIFLOWER Use | 3 | 60 | 60 | 40 | 30 |20, at + flowered portion of| | (1 hr)| (1 hr)| | |15 lbs. + cauliflower. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BRUSSELS SPROUTS | 5 to 10 | 120 | 120 | 90 | 60 |40, at + Cut into sections | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)|1-1/2 | (1 hr)|10 lbs. + and remove core. | | | | hr | | + | | | | | | +PEAS | 5 to 10 | 180 | 180 | 120 | 60 |40, at + Shell and wash. Add| | (3 hr)| (3 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 to + 1 teaspoonful of | | | | | |15 lbs. + salt and 1 tea- | | | | | | + spoonful of sugar | | | | | | + toevery quart. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +Class 4--Roots and Tuber Vegetables +------------------------------------------------------------------------- +CARROTS, PARSNIPS, | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at +SALSIFY | |1-1/2 |1-1/2 | (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + Remove skin by | | hr | hr | hr) | | + scraping after | | | | | | + blanching and cold | | | | | | + dipping. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +BEETS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + To retain the color| |1-1/2 |1-1/2 | (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + of beets leave 3 or| | hr | hr | hr) | | + 4 inches of the | | | | | | + stem and all the | | | | | | + root on while | | | | | | + blanching. After | | | | | | + cold dipping, the | | | | | | + skin may be removed| | | | | | + Scrape the skin. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +TURNIPS | 5 | 90 | 90 | 80 | 60 |40, at + Wash thoroughly | |1-1/2 |1-1/2 | (1-1/3| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + with a vegetable | | hr | hr | hr) | | + brush. | | | | | | +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +Class 5--Vegetable Combinations +------------------------------------------------------------------------ +CORN AND TOMATOES | | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + Prepare individual | | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. + vegetables and then| | | | | | + combine and pack. | | | | | | + | | | | | | +CORN, TOMATOES AND | | | | | | +STRING BEANS | | | | | | + Corn | 3 | | | | | + Tomatoes | 1-1/2 | 120 | 120 | 120 | 60 |45, at + String beans | 5 | (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (2 hr)| (1 hr)|10 lbs. +------------------------------------------------------------------------- + +Count from time when water begins to boil (bubbles all over). This +time schedule is for both pint and quart jars. Add 30 minutes to time +of sterilizing for 2-quart jars. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +SOUPS + + +After one has learned how to can fruits and vegetables successfully, +the next thing to attempt is the canning of soups. + +Soups may be canned with or without meat. We make one variety which is +a pure vegetable soup. We use no stock or meat, and can it in its own +juice or liquor, thus using no water. + +When we wish to use it we dilute it three or four times and serve it +as a vegetable soup or, more frequently, when we have chicken bones or +any meat bones on hand, we add a can of this concentrated vegetable +mixture to the bones and make a delicious stock soup. + +I will give this recipe as I have given it to many friends, all of +whom have pronounced it excellent: + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes + 1 Head cabbage + 1 Dozen carrots + 1 White turnip + 3 Pounds string beans + 1 Pound okra + 3 Red peppers + 1 Peck spinach + 2 Pounds asparagus + 6 Small beets + 6 Ears sweet corn + +Scald the tomatoes by placing them in a wire basket and plunging them +into boiling water for one and a half minutes. Cold-dip them +immediately. After removing the core and stem end of the tomato, the +skin slips right off. Save all the tomato juice. Cut the tomatoes into +quarters. Put into a large pail or bucket with the juice. Blanch the +cabbage, carrots, turnip, string beans, okra and sweet red peppers +five minutes. Cold-dip. Of course you blanch and cold-dip each product +separately. Cut each vegetable after it is blanched and cold-dipped +into small cubes and add to the tomatoes. + +Spinach must be carefully washed to remove all grit and sand. All +greens must be washed through several waters to cleanse them +thoroughly. + +Instead of blanching the spinach in a kettle of boiling water, as we +do the other vegetables, we steam it by placing it in a colander over +boiling water or in a regulation steamer with tightly fitting cover, +such as is used for steaming suet puddings and brown bread. If you can +with a steam-pressure canner or a pressure cooker, then steam the +spinach there. If we boiled the spinach for fifteen or twenty minutes +we would lose a quantity of the mineral salts, the very thing we aim +to get into our systems when we eat spinach, dandelion greens, Swiss +chard and other greens. After the blanching or steaming comes the cold +dip. + +There is something about blanching asparagus, either for soups or when +canned alone, that is worth knowing. Instead of blanching the whole +stalk of asparagus for the same length of time, we use a little +discretion, giving the tougher, harder ends a full four minutes' +blanching, but allowing the tender tip ends only two minutes. You are +possibly wondering how that is done. + +Tie the asparagus stalks in bunches and put the bunches with all the +tips standing one way on a piece of cheesecloth. Tie the cloth or snap +rubber bands round it, and then stand the asparagus in boiling water +in an upright position for two minutes; next lay the asparagus +lengthwise in the blanching water for another two minutes, and you +have accomplished your purpose. You have given the tougher parts two +minutes' more blanching than the tender parts. Use a deep enough +kettle so the asparagus will be completely covered when laid +lengthwise. After the blanching, cold-dip the asparagus. + +Wash the beets. Leave two inches of the top and all the tail on the +beets while blanching. Blanch for five minutes, then cold-dip. Next +scrape off the skin, top and tail. The tops can be put right into the +soup too. Any surplus tops can be steamed with the spinach and can be +treated similarly. + +Blanch corn on the cob five minutes. Cold-dip. Cut the corn from the +cob, cutting from tip to butt end. Add the corn to the other +vegetables. Add no water. Pack the mixed vegetables into clean glass +jars; add one level teaspoonful of salt to every jar; partially seal; +cook one hour and a half in wash-boiler or other homemade outfit. At +the end of that period remove jars from canner, seal tight, and the +work is done. + +Of course you are interested in the cost of this soup. Most of the +ingredients came right from our garden. We had to buy the okra and the +red peppers, but I figured everything just as if I had to buy it from +the market; and on this basis, the cost of our soup would have been +only seven and a half cents a can. We canned it in tin, using size +Number Two, which is the same as pint size in glass jars. + +Another vegetable soup without stock, dried beans and peas being used, +is made as follows: + +Soak six pounds of Lima beans and four pounds of dry peas over night. +Boil each thirty minutes. Blanch sixteen pounds of carrots, six pounds +of cabbage, three pounds of celery, six pounds of turnips, four pounds +of okra, one pound of onions, and four pounds of parsley for three +minutes and dip in cold water quickly. Prepare the vegetables and chop +into small cubes. Chop the onions and celery extra fine. Mix all of +them thoroughly and season to taste. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. +Fill with boiling water. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin +cans. Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; sixty minutes if using water-seal outfit or +five-pound steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure +cooker. + +In many homes cream of tomato soup is the favorite. To make this soup +the housewife uses a tomato pulp and combines it with milk and +seasonings. You can can a large number of jars of this pulp and have +it ready for the cream soup. To make and can this pulp follow these +directions: + +Tomato Pulp. Place the tomatoes in a wire basket or piece of +cheesecloth and plunge into boiling water for one and a half minutes. +Plunge into cold water. Remove the skins and cores. Place the tomatoes +in a kettle and boil thirty minutes. Pass the tomato pulp through a +sieve. Pack in glass jars while hot and add a level teaspoonful of +salt per quart. Partially seal glass jars. Sterilize twenty minutes if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighteen +minutes if using water-seal, or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +fifteen minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soup Stock. To make the soup stock which is the foundation of all +the stock soups, use this recipe: + +Secure twenty-five pounds of beef hocks, joints and bones containing +marrow. Strip off the fat and meat and crack bones with hatchet or +cleaver. Put the broken bones in a thin cloth sack and place this in a +large kettle containing five gallons of cold water. Simmer--do not +boil--for six or seven hours. Do not salt while simmering. Skim off +all fat. This should make about five gallons of stock. Pack hot in +glass jars, bottles or enameled or lacquered tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize forty minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; thirty minutes if +using water-seal or five-pound steam-pressure outfit; twenty-five +minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Soups made with soup stock are many and varied. One can utilize the +things at hand and change the distinctive flavor from year to year. I +will give you a few good specimen recipes which if followed will give +good results: + +Vegetable Soup. Soak a quarter pound dried Lima beans and one pound +unpolished rice for twelve hours. Cook a half pound pearl barley for +two hours. Blanch one pound carrots, one pound onions, one medium-size +potato and one red pepper for three minutes and cold-dip. Prepare the +vegetables and cut into small cubes. Mix thoroughly Lima beans, rice, +barley, carrots, onions, potato and red pepper. Fill glass jars or the +enameled tin cans three-fourths full of the above mixture of +vegetables and cereals. Make a smooth paste of a half pound of wheat +flour and blend in five gallons soup stock. Boil three minutes and add +four ounces salt. Pour this stock over vegetables and fill cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety +minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using a water-seal or five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Pea Soup. Soak eight pounds of dried peas over night. Cook +until soft. Mash fine. Add the mashed peas to five gallons of soup +stock and bring to boil. Pass the boiling liquid through a fine sieve. +Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour and add paste, ten ounces of +sugar and three ounces of salt to the soup stock. Cook until soup +begins to thicken. Pack in glass jars or tin cans. Partially seal +glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; eighty minutes if +using water-seal outfit; seventy minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Cream of Potato Soup. Boil one and a half pounds of potatoes, sliced +thin, and five gallons of soup stock for ten minutes. Add three ounces +of salt, a quarter teaspoonful of pepper and a half pound of butter +and boil slowly for five minutes. Make three tablespoonfuls of flour +into smooth paste and add to the above. Cook three minutes and pack in +glass jars or tin cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. Sterilize ninety minutes if using a hot-water-bath +outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using a +water-seal outfit; sixty-five minutes if using a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using a pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Bean Soup. Soak three pounds of dried beans twelve hours in cold +water. Cut two pounds of ham into quarter-inch cubes and place in a +small sack. Place beans, ham and four gallons of water in kettle and +boil slowly until the beans are very soft. Remove the ham and beans +from the liquor and mash the beans fine. Return ham and mashed beans +to the liquor, add five gallons of soup stock and seasoning, and bring +to boil. Pack into jars or cans while hot. Partially seal jars. Cap +and tip tin cans. Process two hours if using hot-water-bath or +condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes if using water-seal outfit; +seventy-five minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; sixty +minutes if using pressure cooker. + +Okra Soup. Slice eight pounds okra into thin slices the round way. +Blanch ten minutes and cold-dip. Boil one and a half pounds rice for +twenty-five minutes. Mix okra and rice and fill cans or jars half +full. To five gallons soup stock add five ounces salt, a quarter +teaspoonful of coriander seed and a quarter teaspoonful of powdered +cloves, and bring to boil. Fill remaining portion of jars or cans. +Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process two hours if +using hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; ninety minutes +if using water-seal outfit; seventy-five minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; sixty minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + +Chicken-Soup Stock. Place thirty pounds chicken in ten gallons of +cold water and simmer for five hours. Remove meat and bones, then +strain. Add sufficient water to make ten gallons of stock. Fill glass +jars or tin cans with hot stock. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and +tip tin cans. This stock is used to make soup where the term +"chicken-soup stock" is used. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Broth With Rice. For each gallon of soup stock use twelve +ounces of rice. Boil rice thirty minutes. Fill jars or tin cans +two-thirds full of rice and the remainder with soup stock. Partially +seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. Process ninety minutes if using +hot-water-bath outfit or condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes +if using water-seal outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound +steam-pressure outfit; forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker +outfit. + +Chicken Gumbo. Cut two pounds ham into small cubes and boil thirty +minutes. Mince three pounds chicken and chop half a pound of onions +fine. Make a smooth paste of a half pound flour. Add above to five +gallons of chicken-soup stock. Then add a half pound butter and a +quarter pound salt and boil ten minutes. Next add three ounces +powdered okra mixed with one pint water. Pack into glass jars or tin +cans while hot. Partially seal glass jars. Cap and tip tin cans. +Process ninety minutes if using hot-water-bath outfit or +condensed-steam outfit; seventy-five minutes if using water-seal +outfit; sixty minutes if using five-pound steam-pressure outfit; +forty-five minutes if using pressure-cooker outfit. + + +TOMATO ACID CHECKS BACTERIA + +Some women who have canned soup tell me it spoiled or tasted "sourish +and smelled sourish too." This is what we call "flat sour." It may +happen to any vegetable you can, as well as to the soups. "Flat sour" +affects peas, beans, asparagus and corn more than other vegetables. If +the vegetables have been picked for some time and the bacteria have +had a chance "to work," and you are not exceedingly careful about your +canning, you may develop "flat sour" in the soup. If you let one +little spore of this bacteria survive all is lost. Its moist growing +place is favorable to development, particularly if not much acid is +present. One little spore left in a jar will multiply in twenty hours +to some twenty millions of bacteria. This twenty million can stand on +the point of a needle, so a can could acquire quite a large population +in a short time. Bacteria do not like acids, so it is always a good +idea to have tomatoes in your soup mixture, and get the tomatoes into +the stone crock early in the game. The tomato acid will safeguard the +other vegetables which lack acid. + +If you are careless about the blanching and cold-dipping--that is, not +doing these full time--if you work too slowly in getting the products +into jars and then let the full jars stand in the warm atmosphere, you +are pretty sure to develop "flat sour." + +Place each jar in the canner as it is packed. The first jars in will +not be affected by the extra cooking. Have the water just below the +boiling point as you put in each jar. When you have the canner full +bring the water to the boiling point as quickly as possible and begin +to count cooking or sterilizing time from the moment it does boil. + +Some women make the mistake at the end of the cooking period of +letting the jars remain in the boiling water, standing on the false +bottom of the canner until they are cool enough to handle with no +danger of burning the hands. This slow method of cooling not only +tends to create "flat sour," but it is apt to result in cloudy-looking +jars and in mushy vegetables. + +For this reason you should have in your equipment a lifter with which +you can lift out the hot jars without the hands touching them. If you +use a rack with wire handles this answers the same purpose. + +This "flat sour," which is not at all dangerous from the standpoint of +health, must not be confused with the botulinus bacteria, which is an +entirely different thing. + +"Flat sour," perfectly harmless, appears often with inexperienced +canners. Botulinus, harmful, appears rarely. You need not be at all +alarmed about eating either "flat sour" or botulinus, because the odor +from spoiled goods is so distasteful--it really resembles rancid +cheese--that you would never get a spoon of it to your mouth. + +If you are debating whether this jar or that jar of soup or vegetables +is spoiled, do not _taste_ the contents of the jar. _Smell_ it. +Tasting might poison you if you happened on the botulinus bacteria, +which is so rare it need alarm no one; whereas smelling is perfectly +safe. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR SOUPS + + +GRAY SOUP WITHOUT STOCK + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 1 Peck ripe tomatoes Scald 11/2 Remove core and stem end. + 1 Head cabbage 5} + 1 Dozen carrots 5} + 1 White turnip 5} Cut into cubes after blanching + 2 Pounds string beans 5} + 1 Pound okra 5} + 3 Red peppers 5} + + 1 Peck spinach Steam 15 minutes or until + thoroughly wilted. + 2 Pounds asparagus 4 Cut into small pieces after + blanching. + 6 Small beets 5 Cut into slices after blanching. + 6 Ears sweet corn 5 Cut from cob after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITHOUT STOCK, USING DRY LEGUMES + + 6 Pounds dried Lima beans} { Soak over night, then boil + 4 Pounds dried peas } { for one half hour. + 16 Pounds carrots 3} + 6 Pounds cabbage 3} Cut into small cubes after + 3 Pounds celery 3} blanching. + 6 Pounds turnips 3} + 4 Pounds okra 3 Cut into slices after blanching. + 1 Pound onions 3 Chop fine after blanching. + 4 Pounds parsley 3 Cut into pieces after blanching. + Salt + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 60. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Stock Soups) + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + 25 Pounds beef hocks, + joints and bones Simmer for 6 or 7 hours. + 5 Gallons water Should make 5 Gallons + stock. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 40. + In condensed steam outfit, 40. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 30. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 30. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 25. + + +VEGETABLE SOUP WITH STOCK + + 1/4 Pounds dried Lima beans Soak 12 hours. + 1 Pound rice Soak 12 hours. + 1/4 Pound pearl barley Cook 2 hours. + 1 Pounds carrots 3} + 1 Pounds onions 3} Cut into small cubes after + 1 Potato 3} blanching. + 1 Red Pepper 3} + 1/2 Pound flour } { Make paste of flour and soup stock. + 5 Gallons soup stock } { Boil 3 minutes and add salt + 4 Ounces salt } { Pour over vegetables and fill cans. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF PEA SOUP + + 8 Pounds dried peas { Soak over-night and cook until soft. + { Mash peas fine. + 5 Gallons soup stock Add stock and boil. Put through sieve. + 1/2 Pound flour } { Make paste of flour, sugar and salt + 10 Ounces sugar } { and add to stock. Cook until thick. + 3 Ounces salt } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 80. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 70. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CREAM OF POTATO SOUP + + NUMBER OF + INGREDIENTS MINUTES OTHER PREPARATION + TO BLANCH + + 11/2 Pounds potatoes } { Boil potatoes and stock + sliced thin } { 10 minutes. Add salt, + 5 Gallons soup stock } { pepper, butter and boil + 3 Ounces salt } { 5 minutes. Make flour + 1/4 Teaspoonful pepper } { into paste and add. + 1/2 Pound butter } { Cook 3 minutes and can. + 3 Tablespoonfuls flour } + Boil potatoes and stock } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 65. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +BEAN SOUP + + 3 Pounds dried beans Soak 12 hours. + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into 1/4 inch cubes. + 4 Gallons water } { Boil beans, ham and water + 5 Gallons soup stock } { until beans are soft. + Salt } { Mash beans fine. Add + { stock and salt. Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 120. + In condensed steam outfit, 120. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 75. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 60. + + +CHICKEN SOUP STOCK (Foundation of All Chicken Soups) + + 30 Pounds chicken } + 10 Gallons cold water. } + Should make 10 gallons } Simmer 5 hours. Can. + stock when finished } + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + +CHICKEN GUMBO + + 2 Pounds ham Cut ham into small cubes + and boil 30 minutes. + 3 Pounds chicken Mince chicken. + 1/2 Pound onions Chop onions. + 1/2 Pound flour Make paste of flour. + 5 Gallons chicken soup + stock Add all this to soup stock. + 1/2 Pound butter } + 1/4 Pound salt } { Add butter and salt. Boil + 3 Ounces powdered okra } { 10 minutes. Then add + mixed with pint of } { okra mixed with water. + water } { Can. + +NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + + In boiling water or homemade outfit, 212 degrees Fahrenheit, 90. + In condensed steam outfit, 90. + In water-seal outfit, 214 degrees Fahrenheit, 75. + In steam-pressure outfit, 5 pounds, 60. + In pressure-cooker outfit, 10 to 15 pounds, 45. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS + + +For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly +acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is just a +little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or overripe +fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. This +fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. Such +fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin and +are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits. + +The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of +pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, +though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other +marmalades. + +Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be made +into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and lemons to +them while cooking. + +So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is whether or +not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed over jelly +that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn the simple +test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains pectin or not is +a very easy matter. + +Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol--90 to 95 per cent.--and add +to it one tablespoonful of _cooked_ juice that has been cooled. The +effect of the alcohol is to bring together the pectin in a jelly-like +mass. If a large quantity of pectin is present it will appear in one +mass or clot which may be gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I +said _cooked_ juice. It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not +found in the juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the +cooked juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice. + +There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, raw +grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin. + +This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but it also +gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to juice. If +three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous mass or clot +this indicates that you should use three-fourths as much sugar as +juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less sugar. If the +pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin to make the +jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for flavoring ice cream +or some form of cooking. + +By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the jelly +texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be better. + +After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by washing, +stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an acid-proof +kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to prevent +burning--about one cup of water to every four or five quarts of fruit. +The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so forth. With less +juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough water to cover, or +follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. Use the cores, skins and +seeds; these improve the flavor and color of the jelly. + +Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered kettle, +stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When the simmering +point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked wooden masher. +When the fruit is tender or has a transparent appearance, it is ready +to strain. + +The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a large +mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie opposite +corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a flannel or +felt bag for straining the juice. + +What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When this +Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty +minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so many +housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do this, +empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving kettle, +cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then cover, bring +slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice that drips out +is called Extraction Two. + +The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out whether +there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin is present, +you can repeat the operation and get Extraction Three. + +Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you can +get as many as five extractions. + +You may say, "Why bother with extractions--why not squeeze the juice +and be done with it?" You will get clearer, better-flavored and more +glasses of jelly if you will make the extractions than if you squeeze +the jelly bag. + +I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but usually +combine Extraction Two and Three. + +The next step in jelly making is vitally important--that is, how much +sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is where many +housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the same proportion +of sugar to all juices. + +To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of sugar +must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough or +unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must be +used. + +Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in pectin +that they require equal amounts of sugar and juice--that is, to every +cup of extracted currant and grape juice we add one cup of sugar. + +Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup of +sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water in +the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of +juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples. + +It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large amount +of water is added than from the juicy fruits. + +I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the fruit +juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the boiling, +in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should the sugar be +hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the sugar in the +middle of the jelly-making process than at the beginning or the end. +Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, so as to lose as little +sugar as possible. + +If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and thus +the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it in a +granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, and stir +occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it. + +After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as quickly +as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent boiling. A +steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will produce good +results. + +Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from eight +to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or five +minutes. + +Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty +minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen minutes. + +The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking +thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. It +is the one sure, reliable test. + +The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you want a +very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it +immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees. + +If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour the +boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held horizontally. +If the sirup is done two drops will break simultaneously from the side +of the spoon. + +Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw a path +through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and the juice +does not run together, the jellying point has been reached. + +When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from the +fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized +glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to +prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full. + +Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at one +time. If new at the game make only four, because there is danger of +the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be removed. + +When the jellies are well set cover them with _hot_, not merely +melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs that may +fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the clean tin or +aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool place after proper +labeling. + + +STEPS IN JELLY MAKING + +1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and +contains a large amount of pectin. + +2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth. + +3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash +berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added if +necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small pieces; add +half as much water as fruit. + +4. Pour into dampened bag. + +5. Drain through closely woven bag. + +6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of sugar +to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of pectin, the +fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different fruits. To +make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold cooked fruit +juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake gently. Allow to stand +one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a lump add +three-fourths as much sugar as juice in making jelly. If the +precipitate--pectin--is not held together in a lump or is less than +three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, add less sugar in +proportion to juice. If less than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to +make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and +so forth. + +7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook. + +8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or midway +in the process. + +9. Stir until sugar is dissolved. + +10. Cook rapidly, but not hard. + +11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a clean +spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from it. If +done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of spoon. Some +prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of spoon. Better still, +use thermometer. + +12. Remove from fire and skim. + +13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses. + +14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a little +coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily. + +15. Cover, label and store. + +No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter into +consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the amount of +water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of sugar to juice; +the more sugar used, the less time needed. + + +JAMS AND BUTTERS + +Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies. + +1. Carefully wash berries and fruits. + +2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not +convenient, use measuring cup. + +3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces. + +4. Add enough water to prevent sticking. + +5. Stir to keep from burning. + +6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken. + +7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part fruit. +That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a pound of +sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup of sugar. + +8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently. + +9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. When a +little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is thick +enough. + +10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or crystallized +ginger can be added if desired. + +11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of the +top. + +12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and store. + +Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made much as +are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and grapefruit +marmalades. + +Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and raisins +are often added to conserves. + +Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least +three-fourths of the weight of the fruit. + +If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or other wax +tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the cold-pack method +of canning. You may have containers with screw or bail tops which you +wish to use in this way. The following is one recipe showing how to +proceed. + +Cherry Preserves. Place one gallon of water in a kettle and add ten +pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen minutes. Add +twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until product is boiling at +a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in shallow pans. Pack into +glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip if +using enameled tin cans. If using a hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize +twenty minutes; if using a water-seal outfit, a five-pound +steam-pressure outfit or a pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen +minutes. Remove jars. Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the +joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching and store. When +using pressure-cooker outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during +period of sterilization. + +Fruit Juices. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and delicious drink +and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries and other small +fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a cloth sack, heated +for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs freely, and allowed to +drip. + +Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the +sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of the +bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 degrees, or +until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the cooker, and keep +at this temperature one hour and a half to two hours; or heat to 200 +degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise to the top of the water, +and hold at this temperature for thirty minutes. The hot water comes +up to the neck of the bottle. Cork without removing the cotton. If +canned in jars close the jar partly, and seal tight after cooking. + +Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a higher +temperature injures the flavor. + +Strawberry Preserves. 1. Add thirty-five ounces of sugar to one-half +pint of water; bring to a boil and skim. + +With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively +without floating and no sirup will be left over. + +To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds of +washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it +registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical thermometer. +If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is very +heavy--about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum. + +Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of the +hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as possible. +Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not fasten tightly. + +Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if possible. +Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the boiling water +for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least twenty-five +minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the conclusion of the +operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap to make sure that +the seal is absolutely tight. + +Recipe Number 2. The following method is preferred by some because +it leaves more of the natural color in the preserves: + +To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add +twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour +juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook to +222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack and +sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for all +other berries. + +When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the table, +they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick sirup +which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a cooling +summer drink. + +Strawberries--Sun Preserves. Select firm ripe berries; hull and +rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a single layer; sprinkle +sugar over them. Pour over them a thick sirup made of one quart of +water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled until very thick. + +Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them to +stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly glasses +and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin cans. Put +the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or seal if +using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time given below +for the particular type of outfit used: + + MINUTES + Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial 20 + Water seal, 214 degrees 15 + Steam pressure 10 + +Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, and test +the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent bleaching. + +When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on preserves, +remember to keep the valve open during the sterilizing. + + +SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + +Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a fine +flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter apples are +best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly in the spring, +add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple juice. + +Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple. + +Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious juices and +shrubs for summer beverages. + +The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 minutes. + +Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are rubbed +through a sieve. + +Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good +combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and strawberries. + +Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, pear and +pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin. + +One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious jelly; +currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 to July +3. + +Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days. + +Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too much +sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are satisfactory. + +If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than do +green-as-grass gooseberries. + +Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to test +for pectin before completing the process, to save time and effort. + +Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for conserves. + +An underripe, acid plum is best. + +Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly. + +Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit +being used for preserving. + +Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a rain, for +they will have absorbed so much water as to make it difficult, without +excessive boiling, to get the juice to "jell." + +Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. It +will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an otherwise +expensive jam "go a long way." + +Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized in +many ways. + +Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges. + +Lemon Marmalade. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are sliced, put in +kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 hours; then boil 2 +hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour longer. + +Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are +usually combined with grapefruit. + +All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh and not +overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if made from +fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are +still green. + +CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING + + + KIND OF FRUIT|CHARACTER OF| HOW TO | AMOUNT OF | AMOUNT OF + | FRUIT | PREPARE |WATER NEEDED| SUGAR NEEDED + | | |FOR COOKING | FOR JELLYING + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + APPLES, SOUR | Excellent | Wash, |One-half as | 3/4 cupful of + | for jelly |discard any | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | unsound | as fruit | cupful of + | | portions, | | juice + | | cut into | | + | | small | | + | | pieces. | | + | | Include | | + | | | | + APRICOTS |Not suitable|Leave a few |For jam use | 3/4 cupful of + | for jelly | stones in |just enough | sugar to 1 + | making. |for flavor. | water to | cupful of + | Excellent | | keep from | apricots for + | for jam. | | burning | jam + | | | | + BLACKBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | 3/4 cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | | quarts of | cupful of + | | | berries | juice + | | | | + BLUEBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly | | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + |making; make| | quarts of | cupful of + | a sweet | | berries | juice + | jelly | | | + | | | | + CRANBERRIES | Excellent | Wash |One-half as | 3/4 cupful of + | for jelly | | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as berries | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CHERRIES |Pectin must | Pit the |For jam, use| 3/4 cupful of + |be added for|cherries for|just enough | sugar to 1 + |jelly making| jam | water to | cupful of + | | | keep from | cherries for + | | | burning | jam + | | | | + CRAB APPLES | Excellent | Same as |One-half as | 3/4 cupful of + | for jelly | apples | much water | sugar to 1 + | making | | as apples | cupful of + | | | | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, RED| Excellent | Do not |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |remove stems| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | for jelly | quarts of | cupful of + | | | currants | juice + | | | | + CURRANTS, | Better for |Remove stems|Enough water| 3/4 cupful of + BLACK | jam | |to keep from| sugar to 1 + | | | sticking | cupful of + | | | | currants + | | | | + GRAPES, | Excellent |Wash, do not|1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + UNRIPE | for jelly | stem; use | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | stems | quarts of | cupful of + | | | grapes | juice + | | | | + GOOSEBERRIES | Excellent | "Head and |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |tail," using| water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | scissors | quarts of | cupful of + | | |gooseberries| juice + | | | | + PEACHES |Pectin must | Peaches, |Just enough | 3/4 cupful of + |be added for| apples and | water to | sugar to 1 + |jelly making|raisins make| keep from | cupful of + | |a delicious | burning | juice + | | conserve | | + | | | | + PINEAPPLES |Pectin must | Prepare as | For jams, | 3/4 cupful of + |be added for| for table |enough water| sugar to 1 + |jelly making| use |to keep from| cupful of + | | | burning | juice + | | | | + PLUMS, |Suitable for| Mash fruit | 1 quart of | 3/4 cupful of + GREENGAGE |jelly making| and remove | water for | sugar to 1 + | |stems; cook |each peck of| cupful of + | |stones with | fruit | juice + | | fruit | | + | | | | + PLUMS, DAMSON|Suitable for| Wipe and | 1 quart of | 3/4 cupful of + |jelly making| pick over; | water for | sugar to 1 + | | prick | every peck | cupful of + | | several | of plums | juice + | | times with | | + | | large pin | | + | | | | + QUINCES | Excellent |Cut out the |One-half as | 3/4 cupful of + | for jelly |blossom end.| much water | sugar to 1 + | making, if |Mash and cut| as quinces | cupful of + | not too |in quarters | | juice + |ripe. If so,| | | + | add crab | | | + | apple | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES | Excellent | Wash them |1 cupful of | 1 cupful of + | for jelly |thoroughly, | water to 5 | sugar to 1 + | making | but do not | quarts of | cupful of + | | let them | berries | juice + | |soak in the | | + | | water | | + | | | | + RHUBARB |Pectin must |Wash and cut| For jam, | 3/4 cupful of + |be added for| into small |half as much| sugar to 1 + | jelly | pieces | water as | cupful of + | making. | | fruit. | juice + | Better for | | | + | jam. | | | + | | | | + STRAWBERRIES |Pectin must | Wash and | For jam, | 3/4 cupful of + |be added for| remove |just enough | sugar to 1 + | jelly | hulls. | water to | cupful of + | making. | | keep from | pulp. + | | | burning. | + CITRUS FRUITS| | | | + | | | | + ORANGES | Excellent | For orange | Cook in |Three-quarters + | for jelly | marmalade | water to | their weight + | making and | weigh | cover. | in sugar. + | marmalade | oranges | | + | |slice cross-| | + | | wise with | | + | |sharp knife | | + | | as thin as | | + | | possible; | | + | |remove seed.| | + | | | | + LEMONS | Excellent | For | | 8 pounds of + | for jelly |marmalade 9 | | sugar + | making and |oranges and | | + | to supply |6 lemons are| | + | pectin to | a good | | + |other fruits|combination | | + | | | | + GRAPEFRUIT | Best for | Grapefruit | |Three-quarters + | marmalades | is sliced | | their weight + | | very thin, | | in sugar. + | | seed | | + | | removed. | | + WILD FRUITS | | | | + | | | | + RASPBERRIES, | All | Prepare as |Just enough | 1 cupful of + BLACKBERRIES,| excellent | other | water to | sugar to 1 + BARBERRIES, | for jelly | fruits. | keep from | cupful of + GRAPES, BEACH| making. | | burning. | juice. + PLUMS. | | | | + | | | | + ------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + +CHAPTER VII + +MEAT + + +Canned meat adds variety to the diet in the winter-time and makes a +pleasant change from the cured and smoked meats. You put meat into +jars in the raw state and extend the sterilizing period or you can +cook the meat partially or completely and then sterilize for a shorter +period of time. Of course a reliable method of canning meat must be +used, such as the cold-pack process, where the sterilizing is done in +the tin or jar in either boiling water or steam under pressure. We +usually recommend the partial cooking, roasting or boiling of the meat +before canning especially for beginners. If you are a beginner in the +business of cold-pack canning then by all means cook the meat before +putting it in cans. If you have canned peas, beans and corn +successfully for years then you are ready for all kinds of raw meat +canning. + +To save criticism of the cold-pack method of canning meat and to guard +against any danger from eating poorly prepared and improperly +sterilized meat we do not urge beginners to experiment with meat, +although the meat can be safely canned by any one whether new at the +canning game or a veteran in it if directions are carefully followed. +But it is the big "If" that we have to watch. + +Many farmers and farmerettes are canning meats of all kinds all over +the country and there is never a can lost. We need more meat canning +done at home and you can do it if you will practice cleanliness in all +your work and follow directions. + +The fear of getting botulinus bacteria from eating canned meat is just +a "bug-a-boo." It should be clearly understood that botulism is one of +the very rare maladies. The chances for getting it by eating canned +goods, say the experts, is rather less than the chances from dying of +lockjaw every time you scratch your finger. To regard every can as a +source of botulism is worse than regarding every dog as a source of +hydrophobia. Moreover, for the very timid, there is the comforting +certainty that the exceedingly slight danger is completely eliminated +by re-cooking the canned food for a short time before eating it. + +There are always a few cases of illness traceable to bad food, not +only to canned food but to spoiled meats, fish, bad milk, oysters and +a number of things. There are also cases of injury and death by street +accidents, but we do not for that reason stop using the streets. If +you put good meat into the can and do your canning right then you will +have good results. Never put into a can meat that is about ready to +spoil, thinking thereby to "save it." + +If you want to be absolutely sure, even if the jar of meat seems +perfectly fresh when it is opened, you can re-cook the meat, thus +insuring yourself against any possibility of botulinus poisoning. So +you see, there is nothing at all alarming about that frightful +sounding word "botulinus." Using fresh products, doing the canning +properly and reheating before serving eliminates all danger. + +For canning meat, tin cans are in most respects superior to glass, as +they eliminate all danger of breakage, preserve the meat just as well +as glass, and by excluding the light prevent any change of color. If +you use glass jars be sure to get the best brand of jar rubbers on the +market. This is very important. + +If, as I have said, you are a beginner--cook the meat first by frying, +roasting, broiling, baking or stewing--just as you would prepare it +for immediate use. The meat is usually seasoned according to taste and +is cooked until thoroughly heated through, before putting in the cans. +Do not cook until tender as that will be too long with the additional +sterilizing. If too tender it will fall apart and be unappetizing +although perfectly good. See that nothing is wasted in the canning. If +you are canning a young steer or a calf you would go about it as +follows: + +Select the meat that you would ordinarily want. Slice the meat wanted +for steak. What is not suited for either of these can be used for +stews, or be put through the meat grinder and made into sausage meat, +formed into little cakes, fried and canned. What meat is left clinging +to all bones will be utilized when the bones are boiled for soup +stock. The sinews, the head and the feet, after being cleaned may be +used for soup stock also. + +The liver should be soaked in water, the coarse veins cut out and the +liver skinned and prepared any way that is desired before canning it +or it may be made into liver sausage. The heart can be used for +goulash. The kidneys should be soaked in salt water, split open and +the little sack removed; then they can be either stewed or fried and +then canned. The sweetbreads may be prepared in various ways and then +canned. + +The brain is soaked in water to remove the blood, and the membrane +enclosing it is removed. It can be fried or prepared in any favorite +way and then canned. The ox tail is used for soup. The tongue is +soaked in water, scrubbed, cleaned, salted, boiled, skinned and packed +in cans with some soup stock added. + +If you do not care to use the head for soup stock and if it comes from +a young animal, split it open and soak in cold water. Use a brush and +scrub thoroughly. Remove the eyes and mucous membrane of the nostrils +and then boil it. After it is boiled, remove all meat and make a mock +turtle stew or ragout. Prepare the tripe as for table use and then +can. + +After the soup stock is made and the bones are cracked for a second +cooking, the bones need not be thrown away. You can dry them, run them +through a bone crusher and either feed them to the chickens or use +them for fertilizer. In this way not a particle of the dressed animal +is wasted. + +Here are a few ways to utilize the cuts that are really "left-overs." + + +GOULASH + + 2 Pounds of meat scraps which can consist of beef, veal or pork. + 2 Ounces of any fat. + 2 Onions chopped fine. + 1 Stalk celery, cut in small pieces. + 2 Carrots. + 2 Cups tomatoes either canned or fresh. + 1 Bay leaf. + 6 Whole cloves. + 6 Peppercorns. + 1 Blade mace or a little thyme or both. + A little flour. + 1 Tablespoonful chopped parsley. + Salt and paprika to taste. + +Cut the meat into one inch squares and roll in flour. Melt the fat in +the frying pan, add the vegetables (onions, celery, carrots) and brown +lightly: add the meat and brown. Stir with a spoon or fork to prevent +burning. When browned empty into a pan. + +Put the bay leaf, cloves, peppercorns, mace and thyme into a +cheesecloth bag and add to the meat, add tomatoes. Cover with soup +stock or water and simmer 45 minutes if it is going to be canned. If +for immediate use, 2 hours will be necessary to thoroughly cook it. + +Remove the spices, season with salt, paprika and the chopped parsley. +You can add Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce if desired. Use only +small quantities as these sauces are very strong in their distinctive +flavor. Put hot mixture into cans and sterilize. + +If the different spices are not at hand a good goulash can be made by +using the meat, fat, onions, tomatoes, flour, salt and pepper and +omitting the rest of the recipe. + + +LIVER SAUSAGE + +Beef, veal, or hog liver. Remove the membrane and cut away the large +blood vessels. Soak in water 1 to 2 hours to draw out blood. Boil +until done. When cooled put through a food chopper or grate finely. +Take half as much boiled fat pork as liver. Divide this fat into two +portions; chop one portion into one-quarter inch cubes; pass the other +portion through the food chopper; mix all together thoroughly; add +salt, ground cloves, pepper, and a little grated onion to taste. A +little thyme and marjoram may be added to suit taste. (For a liver +weighing 11/2 pounds add 3/4 pounds fat pork, 3 to 4 teaspoonfuls salt, 1/2 +teaspoonful cloves, 1/2 teaspoonful pepper, 1 small onion, 1/4 teaspoonful +thyme, and pinch of marjoram.) This mixture is stuffed into large +casings. (If no casings are available, make casings of clean white +muslin.) Cover with boiling water, bring to a boil, and boil for 10 +minutes. Pack into cans, fill in with the water in which the sausages +were boiled. Sterilize. + +This liver sausage may also be made from the raw liver and raw pork, +but in that case the sterilizing is for a longer period, as the +time-table indicates. This recipe is recommended by the United States +Department of Agriculture. + + +HEAD CHEESE + +Cut a hog's head into four pieces. Remove the brains, ears, skin, +snout and eyes. Cut off the fattest parts for lard. Put the lean and +bony parts to soak over night in cold water in order to extract the +blood and dirt. When the head is cleaned put it over the fire to boil, +using water enough to cover it. Boil until the meat separates readily +from the bones. Then remove it from the fire and pick out all the +bones. Drain off the liquor, saving a part of it for future use. Chop +the meat up finely with a chopping knife. Return it to the kettle and +pour on enough of the liquor to cover the meat. Let it boil slowly for +fifteen minutes to a half-hour. Season to taste with salt and pepper +just before removing it from the fire. Bay leaves, a little ground +cloves and allspice may be added and boiled a short time in the soup. +Pack while hot in cans to within 1/2 inch of top. Sterilize. This head +cheese is always served cold. + + +CORNED BEEF + +After beef has been properly corned for three weeks, remove the meat +from the brine. Soak for two hours in clear water, changing water +once. Place in a wire basket and boil slowly for half an hour. Remove +from the boiling water, plunge into cold water, and remove gristle, +bone and excessive fat. Cut into small pieces and pack closely into +cans. Add no salt and proceed as in other canning. + + +CANNED PORK + +After the animal has been killed, cool quickly and keep the pork cool +for at least 24 hours. Can only lean portions, using the fat to make +lard. Place meat in a wire basket or cheesecloth and boil 30 minutes, +or roast in the oven for 30 minutes. Cut into small sections and pack +closely into cans. Add salt and proceed with remainder of process. + +Other pieces of beef and pork: Hamburg steak, sausage, venison, +squirrel, raccoon, opossum, lamb, are canned as follows: + +After cleaning, season and fry, roast, stew, or bake in oven as though +preparing for serving directly on the table. Cook until meat is about +three fourths done. Pack while hot into sanitary tin cans or glass +jars. Pour over the meat the hot liquids, gravies, dressings, etc., or +hot water. Add salt and proceed as in any other cold-pack canning. + + +HOW TO CAN POULTRY AND GAME WITH THE BONES REMOVED + +Kill bird and draw immediately; wash carefully and cool; then cut into +convenient sections. Boil until the meat can be removed from the +bones; remove from the boiling liquid and take out all bones; pack +closely into glass jars or enameled cans; fill jars with the hot +liquid after it has been concentrated one half; add 1 level +teaspoonful salt to every quart of meat for seasoning; put rubbers and +top of jars in place but not tight. If using enameled cans completely +seal. Sterilize the length of time given in the time-table on page +108 of this book. After the sterilizing remove the jars; tighten the +covers if glass was used; invert to cool and test joints. Wrap with +paper to prevent bleaching. + + +FRIED SPRING CHICKEN + +After cleaning and preparing the chickens, season and fry as though +for serving directly on the table. Cook until the meat is about +three-fourths done. If a whole spring chicken, break the neck and both +legs and fold around body of chicken. Roll up tight, tie a string +around the chicken and drop this hot, partially fried product into +sanitary tin cans or glass jars. A quart tin can (No. 3) will hold two +to four small chickens. Pour liquid from the griddle or frying pan +into the can over the chicken. Proceed, as in any other canning, with +the sealing, sterilizing and removing of the jars. Chicken fries +canned in the late fall preserve the meat at the most delicious stage +and furthermore we avoid the expense of feeding the chickens +throughout the winter. + + +HOW TO CAN COCKERELS + +When cockerels reach the point in their growth where it is no longer +profitable to feed them, and when they are wanted for home use during +the winter months they should be canned. This method of handling the +cockerel not only saves money by cutting down the feed bill, but it +places in the pantry or cellar the means of a delicious chicken dinner +at a time of the year when the price of poultry is high. + +The bird should not be fed for at least twenty-four hours before +killing. It should be killed by the approved method and picked dry. +When the feathers have been removed and the pin feathers drawn the +bird should be cooled rapidly. This rapid cooling after killing is +essential to a good flavor in canned meat. As soon as the bird has +been properly cooled it should be singed and washed carefully with a +brush. + + +CUTTING UP AND DRAWING CHICKENS + +Mr. George Farrell, a most expert canner, tells us how to go about +this job of canning chicken. + +In preparing the bird for canning, care should be taken in drawing it +so that the contents of the digestive tract do not come in contact +with the meat. + +1. Remove the tops of the wings, cutting at the first joint. + +2. Remove the wings. + +3. Remove the foot, cutting at the knee joint. + +4. Remove the leg, cutting at the hip or saddle joint. + +5. Cut the removed portion of the leg into two parts at the joint. + +6. Place the bird so the back of the head is toward the operator, cut +through the neck bone with a sharp knife but do not cut the windpipe +or gullet. + +7. With the index finger separate the gullet and windpipe from the +skin of the neck. + +8. Cut through the skin of the neck. + +9. With a pointed knife cut through the skin from the upper part of +the neck, thus separated, to the wing. + +10. Leave the head attached to the gullet and windpipe and loosen +these from the neck down as far as the crop. + +11. With a sharp pointed knife cut around the shoulder blade, pull it +out of position and break it. + +12. Find the white spots on the ribs and cut through the ribs on these +white spots. + +13. Cut back to the vent; cut around it, and loosen. + +14. Begin at the crop and remove the digestive tract from the bird, +pulling it back toward the vent. + +15. Remove the lungs and kidneys with the point of a knife. + +16. Cut off the neck close to the body. + +17. Cut through the backbone at the joint or just above the diaphragm. + +18. Remove the oil sack. + +19. Separate the breast from the backbone by cutting through on the +white spots. + +20. Cut the fillet from each side of the breastbone. + +21. Cut in sharp at the point of the breastbone, turning the knife and +cutting away the wishbone with the meat. Bend in the bones of the +breastbone. + + +PACKING CHICKEN + +Use a one quart jar. Caution: Do not pack the giblets with the meat. + +1. Have the jar hot. + +2. Pack the saddle with a thigh inside. + +3. Pack the breastbone with a thigh inside. + +4. Pack the backbone and ribs with a leg inside. + +5. Pack the legs large end downward, alongside the breastbone. + +6. Pack the wings. + +7. Pack the wishbone. + +8. Pack the fillets. + +9. Pack the neck-bone. + +10. Pour on boiling water to within one inch of the top; add a level +teaspoonful of salt; place the rubber and cap in position, partially +seal, and sterilize for the length of time given below for the +particular type of outfit used: + + Water bath, home made or commercial (pint or quart jars) 1 hour + Water seal, 214 deg. 3 hours + 5 pounds steam-pressure 2 hours + 10 to 15 pounds steam-pressure 1 hour + +Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. Wrap +jars with paper to prevent bleaching. + + +PIGEONS + +_Young_ pigeons. Dress pigeons, wash well, and roast for 30 minutes +basting frequently. Some pieces of fat bacon put over the breasts will +prevent them getting too dry. + +_Old_ pigeons. Dress, wash, and fry pigeons. + +Brown some onions in the fat with the pigeons, using a pound of onions +to a dozen birds. Cover with hot water after pigeons and onions are a +golden brown; simmer until the meat is tender and can be removed from +the bones. Add from time to time boiling water, if necessary, in order +to keep the birds covered. When tender, take meat from bones. Return +the meat to the liquor, salt to taste and pack while boiling into cans +or jars, fill with liquor to within one-half inch of top. + +All small game birds may be canned like pigeons. Blackbirds may be +treated like pigeons. They make an excellent stew. + + +PLAIN CANNING OF TENDER COTTON-TAILS OR TWICE-SKINNED JACK-RABBITS + +1. Blanch in boiling water until the meat is white. + +2. Cold dip. + +3. Pack tightly in sterilized jars. + +4. Add boiling water and 1 teaspoonful salt to quart. + +5. Adjust rubber and lid. + +6. Sterilize in hot water bath for three hours. + +7. Remove from bath and complete the seal. + +Rabbit meat thus canned, may be served in various appetizing ways. + + +RABBIT SAUSAGE + +For rabbit sausage and mince-meat only the backs and legs of the +carcass are used, discarding the sinews. + +Grind together equal parts of rabbit and fat pork (or at least 1/4 fat +pork). The pork may be salt pork if all salt is omitted from the +mixture. + +To every ten pounds of the above add 6 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 +teaspoonful of pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls powdered sage. Mix thoroughly. +Shape in flat cakes and fry till nicely browned. Pack tightly in jars, +pour over the fat in which the sausage was fried, and sterilize. + + +RABBIT MINCE-MEAT + +Rabbit mince-meat is used a great deal on the plains and large +quantities of it are canned. The mince-meat may be made by simply +substituting the rabbit meat for beef in your favorite recipe. The +following is an inexpensive recipe: + +1 Cup of rabbit meat which has been parboiled in salted water and +drained, then chopped finely. + +1 Cup chopped apple. + +1/2 Cup finely chopped suet. + +1/2 Cup seeded raisins. + +1/2 Cup currants. + +1 Cup molasses or syrup. + +2 Tablespoonfuls sugar. + +1 Tablespoon cider, lemon juice, fruit juice or vinegar. + +1/4 Cup chopped watermelon pickles or green tomato pickles. + +1 Teaspoon of cinnamon or nutmeg. + +1 Teaspoon of salt. + +1/2 Teaspoon cloves, mace or other spice. + +Mix together all ingredients except the meat, add the meat broth and +simmer for about 1 hour. Add the meat. Pour into jars, and sterilize. +Remove and seal. + + +STEPS IN CANNING MEAT AND GAME + +For all meat, poultry or game canning the following general +instructions should be kept in mind. + +1. Sterilize the jars, caps and rubbers. + +2. Grade the meat for size. + +3. Cut up into convenient portions for cooking or canning. + +4. Saute, fry or bake, broil or stew as desired. This step can be +omitted if you are an experienced canner. + +5. Pack in sterilized, hot jars or tin cans. + +6. Add 1 level teaspoonful salt per quart of meat for seasoning if not +already seasoned. + +7. If glass jars put on rubber and seal, not too tight. Seal tin cans. + +8. Process in boiling water or steam under pressure. + +9. Remove, completely seal the jar. + +10. Invert to cool and test the joint. + +11. Label and store. + + +If you can in tin use the enamel or lacquered cans. A slight amount of +water in the bottom of the jars of prepared meat will insure quicker +sterilization of the air remaining in the jar. Where meat has been +stewed the liquor can be poured into the jar for filling. If you use a +steam-pressure cooker outfit of course the time of cooking will be +much shorter than if you use a wash-boiler or some other homemade +outfit. If you cook in boiling water we call that the water-bath +method. + +The following data will be of interest to those who contemplate +canning meat. + +Hog on foot--weight 500. + +Liver, heart and a part of the ribs were eaten at the time of +butchering, therefore, not canned. The remainder of the ribs canned +six No. 3 cans: + +Ham 18, No. 3 cans + +Shoulder 18, No. 3 cans + +Roast 18, No. 3 cans + +Sausage 26, No. 3 cans + +Hash 4, No. 3 cans + +Gravy 5, No. 3 cans + +(which is also called stock) + +The sausage weighed 52 lbs. before it was canned, making 2 lbs. to the +can. + +There were 200 lbs. of fat for lard. After it was rendered there were +176 lbs. of lard and 20 lbs. of cracklings. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING MEAT, POULTRY AND +GAME + + [A] IF USING HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT AT 212 deg.F + [B] IF USING WATER-SEAL OUTFIT AT 214 deg.F + [C] IF USING STEAM PRESSURE 5 POUNDS + [D] IF USING PRESSURE COOKER 15 POUNDS + + TIME TO STERILIZE + PRODUCTS | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + PARTIALLY COOKED MEAT OF ALL KINDS + + + Roast beef | | | | + Corned beef | | | | + Sweetbreads | | | | + Tongue | | | | + Brains | | | | + Headcheese | | | | + Spareribs | 11/2 hrs. | 1 hr. | 40 min. | 30 min. + Kidneys | | | | + Sausages and | | | | + other meats | | | | + Rabbits | | | | + Pigeon | | | | + Chicken | | | | + + UNCOOKED OR RAW MEAT + + Beef | | | | + Pork | 3 hrs. | 3 hrs. | 2 hrs. | 1 hr. + Veal and all | | | | + other meats | | | | + Poultry and game | | | | + + All meat stocks | | | | + with or without | 11/2 hrs. | 75 min. | 1 hr. | 40 min. + vegetables and | | | | + cereals | | | | + +NOTE.--This time-table is for No. 2 and No. 3 tin cans or pint and +quart glass jars. If larger cans or jars are used more time must be +allowed for the sterilizing. If canning in tin, scratch on the can at +the time of sealing the initial of the contents. For instance--S.R. +means spareribs; G. means goulash; R.B. means roast beef. You can make +out your list and mark accordingly. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +FISH + + +People in some sections of the country are interested in canning +mountain trout and others live where there is an abundant supply of +either fresh-water fish or salt-water fish. Heretofore we have been +wasteful and lax about the fish supply. But as we have learned to can +vegetables and meats so we are going to learn to can fish. Fish is +really canned the same in every step after preparation as peas and +corn are canned. + +In order to have a good product, fish must be fresh when canned. No +time should be lost in handling the fish after being caught. +Putrefaction starts rapidly, and the fish must be handled promptly. +The sooner it is canned after being taken from lake, stream or ocean, +the better. Never attempt to can any fish that is stale. + + +PREPARATION OF FISH FOR CANNING + +As soon as fish are caught it is advisable to kill them with a knife +and allow the blood to run out. Scale fish. This is easily done if the +fish is dipped in boiling water. For canning, most varieties of fish +need not be skinned. If the fish is very large and coarse, the large +back fin may be cut out and the backbone removed, but with most +varieties this is unnecessary. Cut off the head and tail, being +careful to leave no more meat than necessary on the parts removed. +Remove the entrails and the dark membrane that in some fish (e.g., +mullets) covers the abdominal cavity. Thoroughly clean the inside. The +head may be cleaned and used for fish chowder. + +If you wish to be sure that all blood is drawn out before canning, +place the fish in a brine made of one ounce of salt to one quart of +water. Allow the fish to soak from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to +the thickness of the fish. Never use this brine but once. If the meat +of the fish is very soft or loose, it may be hardened by soaking in a +brine (strong enough to float an Irish potato) for from 15 minutes to +an hour, depending on the thickness of the pieces and the softness of +the flesh. + + +CANNING THE FISH + +1. Remove the fish from the brine where it has been placed in order to +draw out all the blood and to harden the texture of the fish. + +2. Drain well. + +3. Cut into can lengths. + +4. Place fish in a piece of cheesecloth or in a wire basket and blanch +in _boiling water_ from three to five minutes. Three minutes for the +soft flesh fish, such as suckers, crappies, whitefish. Fish with a +firmer flesh, as pike, muskalonge and sunfish require 5 minutes +blanching. The blanching removes the strong fish flavor and cleans the +outside of the fish. + +5. Cold-dip the fish by plunging into cold water immediately. This +makes the flesh firm. + +6. Pack in hot jars or cans to within 1/2 inch from top. Add 1 +teaspoonful salt per quart. Put on a good rubber and partially seal +the jar, completely seal tin cans. + +7. Place jars or cans in canner and process in _boiling_ water for +three hours. Three hours sterilization will insure the keeping of all +varieties of fish, providing fresh products are used and the blanching +and other work is carefully done. If canning with a steam-pressure +canner or a pressure cooker sterilize for one hour and a half under 10 +to 15 lbs. pressure. + +8. At the end of the sterilizing period cool the jars quickly after +sealing completely. The tin cans may be cooled by immersing them in +cold water. + +9. Store for future use. + + +SOFTENING OF BONES IN FISH + +This can be done satisfactorily under pressure. The bones of fish are +composed of large quantities of harmless lime, bound by a matrix of +collagen, which is insoluble under ordinary conditions. When subjected +to a high temperature under pressure this collagen is converted into +gelatin and dissolved, leaving the bones soft and friable and even +edible. Bony fish, such as herring and shad, which are too small to +use otherwise are greatly improved when subjected to steam under +pressure. + +The bones in herring are softened in 37 minutes at a temperature of +240 degrees; shad in 1 hour; flounder 1 hour. Other fish are fully +cooked and the bones softened in times approximately proportionate to +the size of the bones. + +The following table was made after many experiments and gives the time +required to soften the bones in many common species of fish. + +The term "softening" means the point in cooking when the small bones, +ribs, etc., are soft, but when the large vertebrae are not yet +sufficiently soft to be consumed along with the meat. In some of the +larger fishes where the large bones could scarcely be eaten, even if +they were softened, it would appear to be a waste of time and fuel to +carry them to a point of complete cooking, and in such cases it ought +to be sufficient to soften the small bones and sterilize the contents +of the can. For such a purpose, the "softening" rather than the "soft" +point, may be used. + +The time periods are measured from the point when the given pressure +and temperature are reached (at the top of the cooker) to the time +when the heat is shut off. The heating-up and cooling-off period of +time are therefore not included. The fish were salted, but no water +was added. + +Samples of fish canned during the course of these experiments were +kept six weeks at room temperature (about 68 deg. F.) and were then +incubated at 98 deg. F. for 48 hrs. All were sterile. + +TIME REQUIRED TO SOFTEN THE BONES OF +VARIOUS SPECIES OF FISH IN QUART JARS +OR NO. 3 TIN CANS, 10 LBS. PRESSURE, +240 deg. F. + + |WEIGHT |SOFTENING|SOFT + |(LBS.) |(MINUTES)|(MINUTES) + | | | + BLACK BASS | | | + | | | + Large | 5-6 | 100 | 120 + Small | 3/4 to 1 | 100 | 110 + | | | + BLUEFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 6-9 | 90 | 100 + Small | 1-2 | 80 | 90 + | | | + BUTTERFISH | | | + | | | + Average | 1/4-1/2 | 60 | 80 + | | | + CATFISH | | | + | | | + Large | 11/2-2 | 70 | 80 + Small | 3/4 | 60 | 70 + | | | + CERO | | | + | | | + Average | 10-13 | 80 | 90 + | | | + COD | | | + | | | + Large | 6-16 | 80 | 90 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + FLOUNDER | | | + | | | + Large | 1-13/4 | 70 | 80 + Small | 1/2-1 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HADDOCK | | | + | | | + Large | 3-5 | 60 | 70 + Small | 1-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + HALIBUT | | | + | | | + Average | 50-90 | 70 | 80 + | | | + HICKORY SHAD | | | + | | | + Average |11/2-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + KINGFISH | | | + | | | + Average | 1/2-1 | 60 | 70 + | | | + LEMON SOLE | | | + | | | + Large | 21/2-31/2 | 80 | 90 + Small | 3/4-2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL | | | + | | | + Average | 3/4-11/2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + MACKEREL, SPANISH | | | + | | | + Average | 11/2-21/2 | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, WHITE | | | + | | | + Average | 1/4-3/4 | 100 | 110 + | | | + PERCH, YELLOW | | | + | | | + Average | 1/4-3/4 | 90 | 100 + | | | + POLLACK | | | + | | | + Average | 5-71/2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + SALMON | | | + | | | + Average | 13-19 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SEA BASS | | | + | | | + Average | 1-11/2 | 60 | 70 + | | | + SQUETEAGUE | | | + | | | + Large | 21/2-4 | 80 | 90 + Small | 3/4-2 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SMELTS | | | + | | | + Large, per lb. | 5-7 | 60 | 70 + Small, per lb. | 15-20 | 50 | 60 + | | | + SNAPPER, RED | | | + | | | + Large | 10-15 | 110 | 120 + Small | 5-6 | 90 | 100 + | | | + SUCKER | | | + | | | + Average | 1/2-11/2 | 80 | 90 + | | | + TILEFISH | | | + | | | + Average | 6-12 | 90 | 100 + | | | + WHITING | | | + | | | + Average | 1/2-1 | 50 | 60 + + +FRIED FISH + +1. Clean the fish and remove entrails. Split along the back and remove +backbone. + +2. Place in brine strong enough to float an Irish potato. Allow fish +to remain in this brine from 10 minutes to 1 hour according to the +thickness of the flesh. This draws out the blood and hardens the meat. + +3. Draw, wipe dry. + +4. Cut in pieces that can go through jar or can openings. + +5. Roll in cornmeal or other flour, dip into beaten egg and roll in +flour again. + +6. Then put into frying basket and fry in deep fat until nicely +browned, or it can be sauted in bacon or other fat until well browned. + +7. Drain well by placing pieces on coarse paper to absorb excessive +fat. + +8. Pack into hot jars or enameled tin cans. + +9. Add 1 teaspoonful salt per quart. Add no liquid. + +10. Partially seal glass jars. Completely seal tin cans. + +11. Process 3 hours in hot water bath outfit. Process 11/2 hours in +steam pressure (10 to 15 lbs. pressure). + +12. Remove from canner. Seal glass jars. Cool quickly as possible. + + +BAKED FISH + +Prepare and bake fish same as for table use until half done. Pack in +hot jars, add salt and sterilize three hours in hot-water-bath outfit +or 11/2 hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker, 10 to 15 lbs. +pressure. + + +ANOTHER FORMULA FOR MISCELLANEOUS FISH + +Rub the fish inside and out with a mixture made as follows: to 50 +pounds fish, mix 21/2 pounds salt, 21/2 pounds brown sugar and 21/2 ounces +saltpeter. Let the fish stand in a cool place for 48 to 60 hours with +the mixture on, then wash and drain. Fill into glass jars or enamel +lined tin cans and add the following sauce until cans are nearly +filled: 1/4 pound whole black pepper, 11/2 pounds salt, 1 pound of onions +chopped fine, 1/2 ounce bay leaves, 1/4 pound whole cloves, 2 quarts cider +vinegar and 25 quarts of water. Soak the pepper, cloves and bay leaves +for 48 hours in the vinegar. Put the water, salt and onions in a +kettle. Bring to a boil and cook 30 minutes, then add the vinegar and +spices. Let boil for one minute. Strain and it is ready for use. + +Sterilize for 3 hours in hot-water-bath outfit. + +Sterilize for 11/2 hours in steam pressure or pressure cooker (10 to 15 +lbs. pressure). + + +CANNED FISH IN OIL + +Rub fish with salt, brown sugar and saltpeter as above directed. Wash +and dry thoroughly in the sun. Spread on wire screens and dip in oil +heated to a temperature of 300 degrees. Use a strap handle plunge +thermometer to determine heat of oil. Cottonseed oil may be used for +this purpose, although olive oil is best. As soon as the fish are +cool enough to handle, pack tightly in cans, filling up with the hot +oil. + +Sterilize 3 hours in hot-water-bath-outfit; 11/2 hours in steam pressure +or pressure cooker (10 to 15 lbs.). + + +CANNED FISH IN TOMATO SAUCE + +Handle same as specified under "Another Formula for Miscellaneous +Fish," except pour in the following sauce instead of pepper, cloves, +onions, etc.: Ten gallons of tomato pulp (mashed tomatoes and juice +with cores, seeds and skins removed); 1 gallon cider vinegar, 1 pint +Worcestershire sauce; 21/2 pounds red sweet peppers; 21/2 pounds sugar, 2 +cups salt, 2 pounds onions (chopped fine); 1 pound West India peppers +and 1 ounce Saigon cinnamon. The fish are processed same as "Fish in +Oil." Enamel lined cans or glass jars must be used. + + +FISH CHOWDER + +The cleaned heads of any fish, the backbones cut out of large fish +with what meat adheres to them and all other fish scraps may be used +for fish chowder. Put all these parts in cold water (to cover) and +cook until all the meat can be easily removed from the bones. Pick all +the meat from the bones, strain the fish liquor and return it with the +picked fish meat to the kettle. Add the following ingredients: To +every two pounds of fish picked from bones and the liquor in which +fish was cooked add 6 onions, diced or sliced thin; 6 potatoes, diced +or sliced thin; 2 tablespoonfuls fat; 1 teaspoonful paprika; 2 +teaspoonfuls salt or salt to taste. + +Cook vegetables, fat and seasonings until vegetables are half done. +Pack hot in cans and sterilize same as all other fish. When the +chowder is opened, heat and add milk according to taste. + + +FISH ROE + +For canning be sure to use roe of freshly caught fish and only such +roe as is known to be good to eat. The roe of some fishes, such as the +garfish, is not eaten. + +Clean the roe by removing the shreds and strings adhering to it and +wash well in cold water, being careful not to break the roe. Soak for +2 hours in a brine made of 6 quarts of water and 6 ounces of salt. +Drain and pack in hot glass jars or enameled tin cans. Can for the +same length of time as other fish. + + +OYSTERS + +Be sure all oysters that are to be canned are absolutely fresh, have +not "soured" and contain no spoiled oysters. Oysters are opened by +hand. All oysters should be rejected that have partly open shells, as +this is a sign that the oyster is dead and consequently not fit to +eat. + +Rinse the oysters to prevent any pieces of shell or grit from getting +into the cans. Blanch 5 minutes. Cold-dip. If the canned oysters are +to be sold it is required by law to mark on each can the net weight of +solids or meat exclusive of liquids. + +There have been a number of standard grades of oysters recognized on +the Baltimore market. They are given as follows: "Standard Oysters" +(four kinds). + +No. 1 cans, containing respectively 11/2, 3, 4 and 5 ounces of meat, +after being processed in the cans. + +No. 2 cans, containing respectively 3, 6, 8 and 10 ounces of meat. + +"Select" and "Extra Select" Oysters contain respectively 6 ounces and +12 ounces for No. 1 and No. 2 cans. The above are the net weights of +meats only that have been drained over a strainer with a wire bottom +of 1/2 inch mesh. These are the only grades that have so far been +recognized by the trade. An even balance scale, with one platform for +graduated weights and another for articles to be weighed, is used to +weigh oysters or clams. It is suggested that those who are going to +can clams or oysters find out from their prospective customers just +what requirements are as to weights and then make their pack meet the +occasion. Under no circumstances is it advisable to make any +misstatements or misbrand in any respect. + +After oysters have been packed in the can, fill with boiling brine +made of 5 quarts of water to 1/4 lb. salt to within 1/2 inch from top of +can. Sterilize as other fish. + + +CLAMS + +If clams are received in a muddy condition, it is advisable, though +not necessary to wash them before opening. After opening, discard +broken or discolored clams. Do not can any clams unless absolutely +fresh. Blanch. Cold-dip. Weigh out the amount of solid meat, after +draining, that is to go into each can. Weigh and label just as oysters +are weighed and labeled. + +Fill can to within 1/2 inch from the top with boiling brine made of 5 +gallons of water and 1 pound of salt. Sterilize. + + +CLAM BROTH AND CHOWDER + +Place the clams, after being opened, in a kettle with enough cold +water to cover. Add a few stalks of celery. Boil for 10 minutes. +Season with salt, and pepper to taste and add 1 tablespoon butter to +every 50 or 60 large clams. Can. Clam chowder can be made according to +any recipe and then canned. + + +SHRIMPS + +Shrimps when first caught are a grayish white color. They are very +delicate and spoil quickly if allowed to stand for any length of time +in a warm place. There are two general methods of canning shrimp--the +"dry pack" and "wet pack." Nearly all the trade now calls for "wet +pack" because the other always has a rather offensive odor and the +meat is never so fresh and sweet of flavor as the "wet pack." Canned +shrimp is very pleasing to the taste and is preferred by many to +lobster for salads and stews. + +Wet Pack. Medium sizes are preferable as very large shrimps are apt +to be too tough and too dry. Put the shrimps into a wire scalding +basket and lower into a boiling hot salt water solution made by mixing +one pound of salt to each gallon of water. Allow the shrimps to remain +in this bath for about five minutes, then remove and drain thoroughly. + +Peel and remove viscera (entrails). The boiling and the salt will +harden the meat and make the peeling comparatively easy. Pack into +enameled tin cans or glass jars. Nos. 1 and 11/2 cans are used almost +exclusively. These sizes should contain 41/2 oz and 9 ounces of meat +respectively. It is unsafe to put in more meat than above directed, +for it might cake and become solid when processed. + +Add a very mild brine to within 1/2 inch from top of can. For the brine +use 1 teaspoonful salt to 1 quart of boiling water. Sterilize. + +Dry Pack. Handle same as above, except do not pour into the cans any +brine. The fish is packed in the cans and processed as follows without +the addition of any liquor. + +Drying of Shrimps. After shrimps are boiled and peeled they may be +dried. Spread on a drier of any kind and dry at a temperature of from +110 deg.F. to 150 deg.F. When thoroughly dry pack in dry clean glass jars or +in parchment-paper lined boxes. + + +SALMON + +Scale fish, clean and wipe dry. Do not wash. If the fish are large cut +in lengths to fill the cans and in sizes to pass through can openings +easily. Salmon is usually packed in No. 1 cans or in flat cans. Fill +cans with fish after it has been blanched 5 minutes and cold dipped. +Sterilize as other fish. + +Many salmon packers lacquer the outside of their cans to prevent +rusting. This is a very advisable point. The test for unsound salmon +is the nose. If the contents issue an offensive odor, it is unsound. +Freezing does not hurt canned salmon. + + +AMERICAN OR DOMESTIC SARDINES + +The fish taught and used for packing domestic sardines belong to the +herring family and are said to be of the same species as the sardines +of France, Portugal and Spain. There are two methods generally used in +canning sardines. First, when the fish are put in a sauce such as +mustard dressing or tomato sauce, and secondly where they are packed +in oil. + + +CANNING SARDINES IN SAUCE + +The heads are cut off, the scales taken off and the fish cleaned. +Blanch 5 minutes; cold dip; drain and pack into the cans dry. Cover +with sauce, either mustard or tomato. + + +SARDINES IN OIL + +The fish are prepared in the same manner as above described but +instead of blanching them, they are put in wire baskets and immersed +in boiling peanut or cottonseed oil until tender. Olive oil might be +used, but is rather expensive. When cooked, they are drained, packed +into cans in order, and the cans filled with olive oil. It is often +advisable to salt the fish while fresh and before cooking as it +improves the flavor. + + +CRAB MEAT + +Put 5 gallons of water in a large kettle. Add 1/4 lb. of baking soda to +it. When boiling vigorously throw the live crabs in it and boil +quickly for 20 minutes. Remove crabs and wash them in cold water. Pick +out all meat. Wash the meat in a brine made of 1 ounce of salt +dissolved in three quarts of water. Drain and pack in enameled No. 1 +flat cans. Sterilize. As soon as the time of sterilizing is up, plunge +the cans immediately into cold water, otherwise crab meat discolors. +For this reason, glass jars are not so well adapted to crab meat +canning as tin cans. + + +FLAKED CODFISH + +The fish are first cleaned and the entrails removed, then the fins are +cut off. The fish are then soaked for about two hours in a salt brine +to remove the blood. This brine is made with about 10 lbs. of salt to +8 gallons of water. The brine is then rinsed off and the fish are +cooked, either boiled or cooked by steam. When codfish are thoroughly +cooked, the meat will drop off of the bone in pieces, and it is very +white in color and crisp in texture. These pieces are then broken in +suitable sizes and are ready to place in the cans. The cans are filled +as full as possible, because after processing the fish will shrink +some. + + +CRAWFISH + +The best way to can crawfish is to put it up in a bouillon as follows: +Water, 2 gallons; vinegar, 1 quart; cloves, 10; carrots in slices, 6; +onions in slices, 6; cloves of garlic, 3. + +To the above should be added a good quantity of pepper to suit the +taste, a little salt and bunch of parsley and a little thyme. Boil +slowly for about an hour. Throw in the crawfish after the intestines +have been extracted; to do this take the live crawfish in your hand +and tear off the wing which is in the middle of the tail; it will pull +out at the same time a little black intestine which is very bitter. +Boil one or two minutes, never longer, put in cans and process. + +TIME-TABLE FOR BLANCHING AND STERILIZING FISH + + + + + [A] SCALD OR BLANCH + [B] HOT WATER BATH OUTFIT 212 deg.F + [C] CONDENSED STEAM OUTFIT 212 deg.F + [D] WATER-SEAL OUTFIT 214 deg.F + [E] STEAM PRESSURE 5 TO 10 POUNDS + [F] PRESSURE COOKER 10 POUNDS + + NUMBER OF MINUTES TO STERILIZE + PRODUCT | [A] | [B] | [C] | [D] | [E] | [F] + ------------------------------------------------------------------ + Fish of all kinds |3 to 5| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|21/2 hrs.|2 hrs. |11/2 hrs. + | min. | | | | | + | | | | | | + Shell fish of all |3 min.| 3 hrs.| 3 hrs.|21/2 hrs.| 2 hrs.|11/2 hrs. + kinds | | | | | | + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +EASY METHODS OF CANNING IN TIN + + +If the proper sanitary requirements are provided and instructions of +the cold-pack method of canning are followed, it is entirely safe and +practical to use tin cans for all kinds of fruits, vegetables and +other food products. Food poisoning--commonly called ptomaine +poisoning--and the effects ascribed to "salts of tin" result from +improper handling and improper preparation of the product before +packing, or from allowing the product to stand in the tin after it has +been opened. The raw food products used for canning in tin must be in +sound condition, just as they must be if put into glass containers. + +It is true that canned foods may be rendered unfit for use by improper +handling of the product before packing and that decomposition may +occur after canning, owing to insufficient processing, improper +sealing or the use of leaky containers. This condition, however, is no +more likely to be encountered in foods put up in tin than in products +canned in other types of containers. You run no more danger of poison +from your own tin-canned products than from tin-canned food bought at +the store. Most canned foods if in a spoiled condition readily show +this condition by the swelling of the can or by odor or taste. Canned +foods showing such evidences of decomposition should not be used. + +Certain foods which are high in protein, such as meats, peas, beans +and fish products, may undergo decomposition without making this +condition obvious to the senses. It is essential, therefore, that the +greatest care be taken to subject such products to proper preparation +and ample processing. It should be remembered that canned foods, after +opening the containers, should be treated as perishable products and +should be handled with the same precautions that are applied when +fresh products are being used. + + +ADVANTAGES OF CANS + +Many housewives ask, "Why can in tin when we have always used glass +jars?" There are many advantages in canning in tin which we can well +consider. There is no breakage as in glass; you can handle the tin +cans as carelessly as you choose and you will not hear a snap or crack +indicating a lost jar. Furthermore, tin cans are easier to handle not +only in canning but in storing. + +The expense each year of new tin covers or new tin cans is no more +than the purchase of new rubbers and the replacement of broken glass +jars. Furthermore, one big advantage of tin over glass is that tin +cans can be cooled quickly by plunging them into cold water +immediately upon removal from the canner, and thus the cooking is +stopped at the proper moment. The product is consequently better in +form and flavor than when the cooking is prolonged, as it must be in +glass jars. Many women like the large openings of cans because they +can make better packs than when using narrow-necked jars. + +If you do not care to bother with the soldering you can purchase a +safe and simple device that will do the work for you. This device is +called a tin-can sealer. With a sealer no soldering is necessary. +Even an inexperienced person, by following directions carefully, can +seal a can as well as an experienced one. The sealed cans look exactly +like those purchased at the store. Two or three cans a minute can be +sealed with this device. + +This is the way to operate a can sealer: Prepare the fruits and +vegetables as for any canning, following directions formerly given for +cold-pack canning. + +After the fruits or vegetables have been properly prepared, blanched +and cold-dipped if necessary, place them in sanitary, solderless cans. +Put water or sirup on, according to directions. Put the top on the can +and place the can in the sealer. + +Raise the can into the chunk by swinging the raising lever at the +bottom of the machine against the frame. Turn the crank, rapidly at +first, with the right hand, and at the same time push the seaming-roll +lever very slowly with the left hand until it will go no farther. This +is one of the most important steps in the use of the machine. Continue +to give the crank several turns after the seaming-roll lever has gone +as far as it will go. This completes the first operation or seam. + +Continue turning the crank with the right hand, and with the left hand +pull the seaming-roll lever until it will go no farther in this +direction. After this has been done give the crank several more turns, +and the second and final operation is complete. Bring the seaming-roll +lever back to the middle position and remove the can. The can is then +ready for sterilization. + +Before sealing a new lot of cans or after changing for a different +size of can, one or two of the cans about to be used should be tested +for leaks. If this is done and the cans stand the test it will be +unnecessary to test the remaining cans of that same lot. The following +is a simple and safe test: + +Put one tablespoon of water into an empty can and seal. Have on hand a +vessel containing enough boiling water to cover the can. Set aside +and, as soon as bubbles disappear from the surface, immerse the can in +the hot water. This heats the water in the can and creates a pressure +within the can. Keep the can under the surface for two minutes, and if +by that time no bubbles rise from the can the can has been sealed +air-tight. + + +ADJUSTING THE SEAMING ROLLS + +If bubbles rise from the can the seam is not sufficiently tight. If +this seam is not sufficiently tight the _second_ seaming roll needs +adjusting, provided the directions regarding seaming rolls given below +have been observed. To set the rolls proceed as follows: Loosen the +nut on the bottom of the seaming-roll pin. With a screw driver turn +the seaming-roll pin counter clockwise--that is, from right to left. +Turn very slightly and, while holding the seaming-roll pin with the +screw driver in the left hand, tighten nut with the right hand, and +test as before. + +Occasionally it is well to compare the seam after the first operation +with the sample can which is sent with the machine. + +If seaming rolls cut into the can they are set too close, and the +seaming-roll pin should be adjusted in the opposite direction from +above. + +After adjusting, always test cans as suggested above before canning. +The seaming rolls are set before the machine leaves the factory and +should not require adjusting for some time, but I have found that +slight variations in cans may make adjusting necessary. + +If for any reason the second seaming roll is brought into contact with +the can before the first operation is complete it may injure the can +seriously, thus preventing an air-tight seam. + +If the first seaming roll is forced in too rapidly it may ruin the +seam. Push the seaming-roll lever gently and steadily, while turning +the crank with the right hand. This rolls the seam gradually. There is +no danger from bringing in the second seaming roll too quickly if the +first seaming roll has completed its work. + +There are thus, as you see, two kinds of tin cans used in home +canning: The sanitary or rim-seal can, which is used with a sealer, +and the cap-and-hole can. The latter consists of a can, and a cover +which carries a rim of solder and is fastened on the can by the +application of heat. + +The sanitary can has a cover a trifle larger than the diameter of the +can, thus leaving the full diameter of the can open for filling. That +part of the cover that comes into contact with the can is coated with +a compound or fitted with a paper gasket or ring which makes a perfect +seal when the cover is crimped on the can. Some mechanical device is +necessary for sealing this can, and this is the sealer. + +Cans may be had with inside enamel or plain without any enamel. The +following fruits and vegetables should be canned in enamel-lined cans: +All berry fruits, cherries, plums, rhubarb, pumpkin, beets and squash. +All highly colored products should be canned in enamel-lined cans to +prevent the bleaching effect induced by their action upon the plain +tin. Some prefer to can fish and meat in the enamel-lined cans. Other +products not mentioned here may be canned in plain cans, since they +are less expensive than the enamel-lined cans. + +Covers are lined in two ways, with the paper gasket and the compound +gasket. The compound gasket is merely a preparation, scarcely visible, +applied to the under side of the cover and is not easily damaged by +handling. The paper gasket is a ring placed on the under side of the +cover and must be handled carefully. If the paper gasket becomes +broken the cover must be discarded. To sterilize covers having the +paper gasket, place them in the oven for a few minutes, but _do not +wet them_, before sealing cans. Do not remove or handle paper gaskets. + +When the cans are removed from the cooker the ends should be raised; +this is caused by the pressure within. If they are not raised at the +ends the cans should be carefully examined for defects. After the cans +are sterilized they should be cooled off in water. This will cause the +ends to collapse. If they do not collapse the reason is probably due +to overfilling. It must be remembered that peas, beans and corn swell +a certain amount after water is placed in the cans; therefore, in +canning these vegetables the cans should be filled only to within a +quarter of an inch of the top. If the pressure of the air from without +will not cause the end to collapse, it should be forced in by hand. + + +THE TINNING OUTFIT + +Tin-can sealers are made to handle the regular Number 2, or pint +cans, and the Number 3, or quart cans. The sizes are interchangeable, +so that in a few minutes' time a Number 2 machine may be changed into +a Number 3 machine with the necessary attachments. So it is economy to +buy a machine with these attachments, as you can then use either pints +or quarts as you desire. + +If you are selling to boarding houses and hotels you also will want +half-gallon and gallon cans. If you use these larger-size cans and +want the sealer you can get it for these sizes, but you must tell +exactly what you want when ordering. + +The prices which I give are 1919 prices and are of course not +stationary. A sealer that will seal the Number 2 sanitary tin cans +costs $14. A sealer for Number 3 cans will cost the same amount. But +the ideal arrangement is the combination machine which can be used for +both the pints, Number 2, and the quarts, Number 3. This type of +sealer costs $16.50. A special machine is used for sealing the Number +10 or gallon cans, and its price is $35. + +The price of the "winter can opener" is $17.00 for smaller size and +$19.50 for the larger one. + +Several standard sizes of tin cans are in common use for canning +purposes, as follows: + + DIAMETER OF + NUMBER SIZE OPENING + INCHES INCHES + 1 2-5/8 by 4 2-1/16 + 2 3-5/16 by 4-9/16 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 3 4-1/8 by 4-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + 10 6/3/16 by 6-7/8 2-1/16 or 2-7/16 + +The cans are put up in crates holding 100 or 500 cans. If you are +canning for the ordinary market use Number 2 cans for berries, corn, +peas and cherries; Number 3 cans for tomatoes, peaches, apples, pears +and sweet potatoes. + +In buying cans it is always necessary to state whether you desire +plain tin or lacquered--enameled--cans. In buying caps always ask for +the solder-hemmed caps and give the diameter of the can opening. For +whole fruits and vegetables, cans with two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch or +even larger openings are preferable. Since the size of the can opening +varies and it ordinarily will not be advisable to have more than one +capping iron, it is recommended that the larger +size--two-and-seven-sixteenth-inch--capping iron be purchased. + +The tin cans come in lots of 100 or 500 cans. It is possible to buy as +few as two dozen cans, but that never pays. It is cheaper to buy a +larger quantity. Number 2 plain sanitary cans in 500 lots cost $3.45 a +hundred; in 100 lots, $3.65 a hundred. Number 2 sanitary +cans--enameled--in 500 lots cost $3.80 a hundred; in 100 lots, $3.95 a +hundred. Number 3, plain, in 500 lots are $4.50 a hundred; Number 3, +plain, in 100 lots are $4.70 a hundred. Number 3, enameled cans, in +500 lots, are $4.95 a hundred; Number 3, enameled cans, in 100 lots, +are $5.10 a hundred. + +The gallons come twelve cans to a case. They are $1.40 a dozen if 100 +cases are bought. If less than 100 cases are ordered they are $1.50 a +dozen. + +The cans that you have to solder yourself run just about the same +price, Number 2 being $3.60 in 500 lots and $3.80 in 100 lots. Number +3 are $4.70 in 500 lots and $4.90 in 100 lots. The buyer must pay +express or freight charges on both sealers and tin cans. + + +PREPARING OLD CANS FOR REFILLING + + +Formerly, after using a tin can once we threw it away; but men with +brains, realizing this waste, have come to our rescue, and as a +consequence we can now use a can three times--that is, if we have a +sealer. The sealer that seals our cans will also open them for us, so +it becomes our winter can opener. With this can opener we can use our +tin cans three times, buying each year only new tops, which cost less +than good rubbers. + +Cutting and Reflanging Tin Cans. Cutting off the can the first time. +First lift the spring pin in the top piece, push the lever from you, +drop the spring pin between the stop of the first operation roll and +the cutting-roll stop. Place the can in the sealer, push the +can-raising lever against opposite side of frame. Turn the crank and +gently push seaming-roll handle from you until you come against +cutting-roll stop, and the top of your can is cut off. + +Reflanging. Remove standard can base and in its place put in the +reflanging base, lift the spring-pin and bring seaming-roll lever to +the original position. Drop the spring pin between the stops of the +first and second operation rollers, place the can in the sealer, open +end down, push raising lever round until the can engages with the +chuck, turn the crank and at the same time gradually push raising +lever round against the frame. The can is now ready for use again. + +Resealing. The can is now three-sixteenths of an inch shorter than +originally. Remove the reflanging base, put one of the narrow washers +on the top of the can-raising lever, then the standard can base, and +the sealer is now ready. Proceed as with the original can. + +Cutting the Can the Second Time. Proceed as at the first time, only +be sure to cut off the opposite end. The can may be cut open and +reflanged only twice, once on each end of the can body. In cutting and +reflanging the second time, leave the three-sixteenth-inch washer +under the can base and reflanging base. + +Resealing the Second Time. Remove reflanging base and put the second +three-sixteenth-inch washer under the standard can base and proceed as +directed under resealing. + + +THE SOLDERING OUTFIT + +The soldering equipment required includes a capping iron, a tipping +copper, soldering flux, a small brush, a porcelain, glass or stoneware +cup in which to keep the soldering flux: sal ammoniac, a few scraps of +zinc, solder, a soft brick and a file. + +Soldering Flux. Soldering flux is a solution of zinc in crude +muriatic acid. It is used for cleaning the irons and for brushing the +tins and lead surfaces so as to make it possible for the melted lead +to adhere to the tin. + +To Make the Flux. Purchase at the drug store ten cents' worth of +crude muriatic acid. Place this in a porcelain, stone or glass jar. +Add as much zinc in small pieces as the acid will thoroughly dissolve. +The flux is always best when it has stood from twelve to sixteen hours +before using. Strain through a piece of cloth or muslin. Dilute with a +little water, about half and half. This will make the soldering flux. +When using keep the flux well mixed and free from dust and dirt. + +Tinning Capping Iron. Purchase five or ten cents worth of sal +ammoniac at the drug store; clean iron with file or knife. Mix a +little solder with the sal ammoniac. Heat the capping iron hot enough +so that it will melt the solder and convert it into a liquid. Place +the iron in the vessel containing the mixture of sal ammoniac and +solder. Rotate iron in the mixture until the soldering edge of the +iron has become bright or thoroughly covered with the solder. All +particles of smudge, burned material, and so forth, should be removed +from the iron before tinning. + +Tinning the Tipping Copper. The tipping copper is tinned in very +much the same way as the iron. Sometimes it is desirable to file the +tipping copper a bit so as to make it smooth and to correct the point. +Heat the copper and rotate the tip of it in the mixture of sal +ammoniac and lead until it has been covered with the melted lead and +is bright as silver. The copper should be filed nearly to a sharp +point. + +Capping a Tin Can. Use one tin can for experimenting. By capping and +tipping, heating the cap, and throwing it off and simply putting +another cap on the same can, you can use this one can until you become +proficient in capping. + +When capping the full packs arrange the cans in rows upon the table +while the capping and tipping irons are heating in the fire. Take a +handful of solder-hemmed caps and place them on all cans ready to be +capped. Place a finger on the vent hole, hold cap in place, and run +the brush containing a small amount of flux evenly round the +solder-hemmed cap with one stroke of the hand. Do this with all cans +ready to be capped. Then take the capping iron from the fire. Insert +in center the upright steel. Hold the capping iron above the cap until +the center rod touches the cap and holds it in place. Then bring it +down in contact with all four points of solder-hemmed cap and rotate +back and forth about three strokes. Do not bear down on capping iron. +A forward and back stroke of this kind, if properly applied, will +perfectly solder the cap in place. Remove capping iron and inspect the +joint. + +If any pin-holes are found recap or repair with copper. It may be +necessary to use a piece of wire lead or waste lead rim from a cap to +add more lead to the broken or pinhole places of a cap. + +Tipping a Tin Can. Take flux jar and brush. Dip brush lightly in +flux and strike the vent hole a side stroke, lightly, with brush +saturated with flux. + +Use the waste solder-hemmed cap rim or wire solder. Place point of +wire solder over vent hole. Place upon this the point of the hot, +bright, tipping copper. Press down with a rotary motion. Remove +quickly. A little practice will not only make this easy, but a smooth, +perfect joint and filling will be the result. The cans are now ready +for the canner. The handwork is all over, for the canner will do the +rest. + +Precautions. Do not fill tin cans too full. Leave a one-eighth to +one-quarter inch space at the top of the can and see that the product +does not touch the cover. If any of the product touches the cover the +application of the hot iron produces steam, which may blow out the +solder, making it impossible to seal the can. + + +RULES FOR STERILIZING + +Remember all fruits and vegetables are prepared for tin cans exactly +as they are for glass jars and the period of cooking or sterilizing is +the same. The following rules will help to avoid difficulties in the +operation of the various canning outfits: + +For hot-water-bath outfits, whether homemade or commercial. + +1. Support the cans off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and round the cans. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the cans by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the cans. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to jump over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. On removing the cans throw them into a sink with running cold water +or plunge them into a pail of cold water. + +5. If the cans are laid on their sides the false bottom is not +necessary. + +For steam-pressure and pressure-cooker canners the following +precautions should be observed: + +1. Lower the inside crate until it rests on the bottom of the +steam-pressure canners. In the case of the pressure cooker put the +rack in the bottom of the cooker. + +2. Have the water come to, but not above, the platform. + +3. Tin cans can be piled one above the other. + +4. When the canner has been filled fasten the opposite clamps +moderately tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Have the canner absolutely steam-tight. + +6. Allow the pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +7. Close the pet cock. + +8. After the gauge registers the correct amount of pressure, begin +counting the time. + +9. Maintain a uniform pressure throughout the process. + +10. When the process is completed allow the steam to escape gradually +through the pet cock. You can lift the pet cock slowly, using a pencil +or a knife. This can be done only with tin cans. If glass jars are +used the canner must be cooled before opening the pet cock. Blowing +the steam from the pet cock is likely to cause a loss of liquid from +the partly sealed glass jars. + +11. Throw the tin cans into cold water. + +12. If tin cans bulge at both ends after they have been completely +cooled, it indicates that they are spoiling and developing gas, due to +bacteria spores or chemical action. These may be saved if opened at +once and resealed or resoldered and processed again for ten minutes. + +The following table will help you in estimating how many cans of fruit +and vegetables you will obtain from a bushel of product: + + +NUMBER OF CANS A BUSHEL FILLS + + NO. 2 CANS NO. 3 CANS + Windfall apples 30 20 + Standard peaches 25 18 + Pears 45 30 + Plums 45 30 + Blackberries 50 30 + Windfall oranges, sliced 22 15 + Windfall oranges, whole 35 22 + Tomatoes 22 15 + Shelled Lima beans 50 30 + String beans 30 20 + Sweet corn 45 25 + Peas, shelled 16 10 + + + + +CHAPTER X + +INTERMITTENT CANNING OR FRACTIONAL STERILIZATION + + +In some parts of the United States, particularly in the South, such +vegetables as corn, beans, peas, squash, spinach, pumpkin, etc., are +canned by what is known as the fractional sterilization, or the +so-called Three Days Process. + +Southern canning experts have had trouble with certain vegetables, +such as those named, when they canned these vegetables in the wash +boiler by the cold-pack or one period method. They say that the +climatic conditions are so different in the South that what is +possible in the North is not possible in the South. + +The vegetables are prepared, blanched, cold-dipped and packed as in +the cold-pack method and the filled cans or jars are processed in the +wash boiler or other homemade outfit a given length of time three +successive days. + +After each day's processing the cans should be cooled quickly and set +aside, until the next day. + +The method is as follows: + +Process or sterilize glass jars for the required number of minutes on +the first day, remove from canner, push springs down tightly as you +remove the jar from the canner. + +On the second day raise the springs, place the jar in the canner, +process or boil for the same length of time as on the first day. +Remove from the canner and seal tightly. Set aside until the third +day, when the process should be repeated. + +For this canning a good spring-top jar is good, although the Mason jar +type of top will serve for one year; after one year of use it is +advisable to fit old Mason jars and similar types with new tops. + +If using the screw-top jars, such as the Mason, do not disturb the +seal at the second and third processing unless the rubber has blown +out. + +This method is only necessary when depending upon boiling water or +condensed steam to do the work. + +A steam-pressure canner or pressure cooker is used in the South and +many other places to avoid bothering with vegetables three successive +days. + +The steam canner or pressure cooker soon pays for itself in time, +energy, and fuel saved as the vegetables may be canned at high +pressure in one processing. + +The following time-tables are those used in the South and will tell +you exactly how long to blanch and process all products. The +preparation of vegetables and fruits is the same as in the one-period +method, but the time of blanching and sterilizing differs as the +time-table indicates. + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + Tomatoes | BLANCH | LIQUOR | SIZE | PROCESS OR + | | | JAR | BOIL + ----------------------------------------------------------- + | 1 min. | No water |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Tomatoes | 1 min. | No water | Pint | 25 min. + | | | | + String beans | | | | + (very young |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |Quart |1 hr. 15 min. + and tender) | | | | + | | | | + Sweet potatoes| Cook 3/4 | 2 |Quart | 3 hrs. + | done |tablespoonfuls| | + | | water | | + | | | | + Sauerkraut | | Brine[1] |Quart | 40 min. + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook 3/4 | Hot water |Quart |1 hr. 40 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Baby beets | Cook 3/4 | Hot water | Pint |1 hr. 20 min. + | done | | | + | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| |Quart | 11/2 hrs. + | thick | | | + | | | | + Apples | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 15 min. + | | | | + Berries | 1 min. | No. 1 sirup |Quart | 13 min. + | | | | + Figs | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + Peaches |1-2 min. | No. 2 sirup |Quart | 25 min. + | | | | + Pears | 1 min. | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 25-35 min. + | | | | + Cherries | | No. 3 sirup |Quart | 30 min. + | | | | + + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 21/2 ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirups recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below: + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN GLASS + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |SIZE |PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |JAR | EACH OF THREE + | | | | SUCCESSIVE DAYS + ----------------------------------------------------------------- + Corn |2 min. on cob|Water, salt |Pint | 11/2 hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Garden peas|1 to 4 min. |Water, salt |Quart| 11/2 hr. + | | and sugar | | + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 20 min. + | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. + | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 11/2 hr. + | | | | + Okra |3 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Quart| 13/4 hr. + | | | | + Squash | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Quart| 13/4 hr. + | | | | + Pumpkin | |Cook done |Pint | 1 hr. and 25 min. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Quart| 11/2 hr. + | | | | + Spinach |4 min. |Brine[1] |Pint | 1 hr. and 15 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 21/2 ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +(Hot-Water Canner) + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS + |BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|OR BOIL + + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water | 3 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Tomatoes |1 min. | No water |10 | 5 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 1 hr. + | | | | | + String beans |3-5 min. | Brine[1] |10 | 3 | 2 hrs. and + | | | | | 20 min. + | | | | | + Sweet potatoes |Cook 3/4 |2 tablespoonfuls| 3 | 3 | 3 hrs. + | done | water | | | + | | | | | + Baby beets |Cook 3/4 | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 11/2 hrs. + | done | | | | + | | | | | + Soup mixture |Boil down| | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + | thick | | | | + | | | | | + Apples |1 min. | No. 3 sirup | 3 | 3 | 8 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. |No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 10 min. + | | | | | + Berries |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 32 min. + | | | | | + Figs | | No. 4 sirup | 2 | 3 | 25 min. + | | | | | + Peaches |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup | 3 | 3 | 20 min. + | | | | | + Pears |1 min. | No. 4 sirup |10 | 3 | 35 min. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 21/2 ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon +of water. To make sirup recommended, boil sugar and water together in +proportions given below. + + Sirup No. 1, use 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 2, use 1 pound 14 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 3, use 3 pounds 9 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 4, use 5 pounds 8 ounces to 1 gallon water. + Sirup No. 5, use 6 pounds 13 ounces to 1 gallon water. + One pint sugar is one pound.] + +TIME-TABLE FOR PRODUCTS IN TIN + +The following vegetables should be processed the same length of time +on each of three successive days: + + | | |NO.|EXHAUST|PROCESS OR BOIL ON + | BLANCH | LIQUOR |CAN|MINUTES|EACH OF THREE + | | | | |SUCCESSIVE DAYS + + Corn |2 min. on |Water, salt| 2 | 10 |1 hr. and 15 min. + | cob | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Garden peas |1 to 4 min.|Water, salt| 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | and sugar | | | + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. + | | | | | + Asparagus |1 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Lima beans |2 to 4 min.| Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | | | | + Okra |3 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 50 min. + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 11/2 hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Squash | | Cook soft | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 11/2 hr. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Pumpkin | | Cook soft | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 10 min. + | | and creamy| | | + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 3 | 3 | 1 hr. and 15 min. + | | | | | + Spinach |4 min. | Brine[1] | 2 | 3 | 1 hr. + +[Footnote 1: Brine is made of 21/2 ounces (1/3 cup) of salt to 1 gallon of +water.] + +You will notice in the time-table for tin, that there is a column for +"Exhausting." After the can is packed and capped it is placed in the +canner of boiling water to within 1 inch of the top of the can where +it remains the number of minutes, usually three, indicated on the +time-table. This is done to force the air from the can through the +little hole left open in the top, and is called exhausting. Cans that +are not exhausted frequently bulge after processing and are looked +upon with suspicion. Cans exhausted too long frequently cave in at the +sides. The time-table should be used carefully and followed strictly +in this part of the process. Tin cans do not require exhausting in the +Northern and Western states. + +TIME-TABLE FOR CANNING VEGETABLES +STEAM PRESSURE + + | | |TEMPERATURE,| | + |VEGETABLE |PROCESS,|DEGREES |PRESSURE| + | |MINUTES |FAHRENHEIT |POUNDS | + + |Asparagus |30 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 2|45 |240 |10 | + |String beans, No. 3|55 |240 |10 | + |Beets |30 |228 | 5 | + |Corn |80 |250 |15 | + |Okra |30 |240 |10 | + |Peas |45 |240 |10 | + |Soup, concentrated | | | | + | vegetable |30 |228 |10 | + |Spinach |30 |228 |15 | + |Sweet potatoes |70 |250 |15 | + +Corn, lima beans and peas should never be packed in larger container +than No. 2. Corn is cut from cob after blanching. + +The brine used is made of 21/2 ounces salt to 1 gallon of water, except +for asparagus, which contains 4 ounces to 1 gallon. + +Beets and rhubarb when packed in tin must be put in enamel-lined cans. + +Process pints as for No. 2 cans; quarts as for No. 3 cans, adding 10 +minutes to each period. + +String beans when more mature should be processed at 15 pounds +pressure for 30 minutes for No. 2, and 45 minutes for No. 3. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +WHY CANNED GOODS SPOIL + + +Every day brings letters to my desk saying, "Why did my jars of +vegetables lose water?" or, "When I looked into my canner I saw all +the beautiful dark sirup in the bottom of the canner instead of in the +jars," or, "What shall I do, my beets are all white?" etc., etc. In +this chapter I am going to try and tell you a few things you must and +must not do. A few "Do's" and "Don'ts" may help you a little in your +canning and food preserving. + +I want to say right here that if you have failures do not blame the +method as we are always so apt to do. Experts have worked long enough, +carefully and thoroughly enough, to convince themselves and others +that the cold-pack method and the intermittent method, which methods +are employed for cooking the product in the jar, are sure, safe, +reliable and efficient methods. So if your food spoils convince +yourself it is not the method but something else. Spoilage is due to +imperfect jars, imperfect rubbers, imperfect sealing of tin cans, +careless blanching, insufficient cold dipping or poor sterilizing. + + +CAN-RUBBERS + +Possibly your canning troubles are all due to using a poor grade of +rubber rings. This is poor economy. Rubbers are apt to give more +trouble than anything else to canners when using glass jars. Many of +the rubbers sold are of a very poor quality, disintegrating quickly +when subjected to heat and strain. My sister, canning in the hot +climate of India, has more trouble with the rubber proposition than +anything else. + +You want good rubbers, are willing to pay for them, and here is what +you should know about rubber rings. + +The one-period, cold-pack method and the intermittent method of home +canning require a rubber ring essentially different from that commonly +used in the old hot-pack method of home canning. Investigation shows +that many of the rings upon the market are unsuitable for these newer +methods, being unable to withstand the long periods of boiling +required in the canning of vegetables and meats. + +Practical canning tests have indicated that rubber rings for use in +this method should meet the following requirements: + +Inside Diameter. The ring should fit closely, requiring a little +stretching to get it around the neck of the jar. For standard jars the +ring should have an inside diameter of 21/4 inches. + +Width of Ring and Flange. The width of the ring or flange may vary +from one-fourth of an inch to twelve thirty-seconds of an inch. Tests +which have been made show that fewer cases of "blow-out" occur when +the flange is ten thirty-seconds of an inch. + +Thickness. Rubber rings as found on the market may vary from 1/18 to +1/10 of an inch in thickness. Tests show that 1/12 of an inch in +thickness is sufficient to take up the unevenness in the jar and still +not so thick as to make it difficult to place the cap or adjust the +bail. + +Cold-pack and intermittent-canning require a rubber ring that is +tough, does not enlarge perceptibly when heated in water or steam, and +is not forced out of position between the top and the jar by slight +pressure within the jar. This we call a "blow-out." + +Rubber rings should be capable of withstanding four hours of +sterilization in boiling water without blowing out on partially sealed +jars, or one hour under ten pounds of steam pressure. They should be +selected with reference to proper inside diameter, width of flange, +and thickness. Good rubber will stretch considerably and return +promptly to place without changing the inside diameter. They should +also be reasonably firm and able to stand without breakage. Color is +given to rings by adding coloring matter during the manufacturing +process. The color of the ring is no index to its usefulness in home +canning. Red, white, black or gray may be used. + +Always use _new_ can-rubbers with each year's product of canned goods. +An old rubber may look like a new one but it has lost its elasticity +and its use may cause imperfect sealing and thus endanger the keeping +quality of the food. This is always a hard thing to impress upon +thrifty penny-saving housekeepers. The old rubber looks so good, so +why not use it? But be wise in this and remember it is _never safe to +use old rubbers_. New rubbers are expensive but what about the cost of +the product, the loss of your time and fuel! One jar lost due to an +old rubber is so much food, time and fuel lost. + +And do not think yourself thrifty to use two old rubber rings instead +of one, thereby thinking to obtain a better seal, for you will not. +Two old rubbers are inferior in strength to one new good rubber. If +you use old rubbers and your canned goods spoil, blame the rubbers. + + +GLASS JARS + +Next in importance to the rubbers are the glass jars you use. There +are many kinds of fruit jars on the market. The question is frequently +asked, "Which jars on the market are the best." The only answer to +that is to choose the jar which is simplest in construction, which +will seal perfectly and wash easily, which protects the contained food +against contact with metal, which has the fewest parts to lose or +misplace and which fits the shelves and receptacles planned to hold +it. + + +FLAT SOUR + +Flat-sour often causes annoyance to beginners in canning some +vegetables, such as corn, peas, beans and asparagus. These canned +foods may show no signs of spoilage and yet when the can is opened the +product may have a sour taste and a disagreeable odor. This +"flat-sour" is not harmful and must not be confused with "botulinus," +which is harmful. However, the taste and odor are so disagreeable you +will have no desire to eat "flat-sour" canned goods. + +This trouble can be avoided if you will use fresh products, that is, +those which have not been allowed to wilt or stand around the shops +for several days, and will blanch, cold-dip, and pack one jar of +product at a time, and place each jar in the canner as it is packed. +The first jars in will not be affected by the extra cooking. When the +steam-pressure canner is used the jars or cans may be placed in the +retort and the cover placed into position but not clamped down until +the retort is filled. + + +TROUBLES WITH CORN + +Corn seems to give the most trouble, but with a little care and study +this product may be canned as easily as any other grown in the garden. +A little experience in selecting the ears and ability to recognize +corn that is just between the milk and dough stage is important. +Blanch not longer than five minutes. A plunge in cold water is +sufficient. Cut the corn from the cob with a sharp knife and pack at +once in sterilized jars. Best results can be accomplished when two +people cut and one person fills. If it is necessary for one person to +work alone, cut off sufficient corn to fill one jar, pour on _boiling_ +water, add salt, place rubber and cap in position and put the jar at +once in the canner. A little overcooking does not injure the quality +of canned corn. Corn should not be tightly packed in the jar; it +expands a little in processing and for this reason each jar should be +filled scant full. Corn that has a cheesy appearance after canning had +reached the dough stage before being packed. Corn should never be +allowed to remain in the cold dip and large quantities should not be +dipped at one time unless sufficient help is available to handle the +product quickly. + +Some to be absolutely sure when canning corn, cook it for ten minutes +in hot water before packing into jars. + +Leave fully one inch of space at the top when packing corn but enough +water may be poured into the jar to fill the can or jar, for when the +corn swells the water will be absorbed. + +Corn Turning Dark. A dark color in canned corn is due to some of +the following causes: + +1. Using water that contains too much iron. + +2. Using corn that has reached the dough stage. + +3. Blanching for too long a period--five minutes is sufficient for +corn. + +Water-Logged or Soaked Corn. When canned corn becomes "water-logged" +or "soaked" it is due to such causes as the following: + +1. Allowing the product to stand in the cold water too long after the +hot dip. + +2. Allowing the jars to stand after they have been packed, and filled +with boiling water. The jars should be immediately placed in the +sterilizer after being packed. + +3. Allowing ears of corn to stand in cold water after opening. + +4. Heating corn in warm water over a slow fire. + + +BEETS, THEIR LOSS OF COLOR + +The loss of color in canned beets is due to faulty methods of +preparation before packing them into the jars. To secure good results +3 or 4 inches of the top and all of the tail should be left on while +blanching. Beets should be blanched for five minutes and the skin +should be scraped but not peeled. Beets should be packed whole if +possible. + +Small beets that run forty to a quart are less likely to fade and are +the most suitable size for first-class packs. The older the beets the +more chance there is for loss of color. Well-canned beets will show a +slight loss of color when removed from the canner, but will brighten +up in a few days. + + +CLOUDY PEAS + +The condition of peas known as "cloudy" is due to such causes as the +following: + +1. Cracking the skin of the pea. + +2. Blanching for too long a period. + +3. Use of water which is too hard or has too much mineral content. + + +SHRINKAGE OF PRODUCT DURING CANNING + +Shrinkage may be due to one or more of the following: + +1. Improper blanching and cold-dipping. + +2. Careless packing and using variety of sizes. + +3. Sterilizing for too long a period. + +4. Lack of sizing whole products for the container. + +Sometimes there is a natural shrinkage that cannot be prevented. This +is due to the fact that vegetables contain air in their tissues and +when this air is driven off by the heat, the boiling water in the jar +rushes in to fill its place. In consequence we have an apparent +shrinkage in the amount of water. So be careful to do the blanching as +correctly as possible to drive out the air; however, the product will +keep just as well in a jar half full of water as if entirely covered +with liquid. The contents of the jar whether food or air are sterile. + + +SHRINKAGE OF GREENS + +Shrinkage of greens or pot herbs during the canning process is usually +due to insufficient blanching. The proper way to blanch all greens or +pot herbs is in a steamer or in a vessel improvised to do the +blanching in live steam above the water line. If this is not done +much of the mineral salts and volatile oil contents will be extracted +by the water and lost. + + +LOSS OF LIQUID DURING CANNING + +A loss of liquid in canning with a hot-water-bath outfit may be caused +by one or more of the following: + +1. Not having the water in the sterilizing vat cover the tops of the +jars by at least one inch. + +2. Not providing a suitable platform to hold the jars off the bottom +of the sterilizing vat, permitting circulation of water under as well +as around the jars. + +3. Not having the wire bail that goes over the glass tops of jars +sufficiently tight. + + +REASONS WHY JUICES ARE DRAWN FROM JARS WHEN CANNING WITH STEAM +PRESSURE + +1. Open pet cock after pointer or gauge has reached zero; test for +pressure by opening pet cock slowly at first. The gauge does not +register pressure until about one pound of pressure has formed, hence +opening the pet cock before the pointer is at zero means that from one +to two pounds of pressure is being relieved and this will draw the +juices the same as allowing the boiler to stand and a vacuum to form. + +2. Allowing the pressure to fluctuate during the time of sterilizing, +such as running the pressure up to fifteen, back to seven or eight and +then up again. + +3. Wire bails can be and should be a little tighter when jars are put +in a steam pressure canner. The clamp should be left up as stated. + +4. There may be an escape of steam around the seal of the boiler and +this would allow the pressure on the inside of the boiler to +fluctuate. + +Any one of those four things will always cause loss of juice. + + +OPERATION OF HOT-WATER-BATH OUTFIT + +These four rules will help in the operation of the hot-water-bath +canning outfit: Example, wash boiler. + +1. Support the jars off the bottom sufficiently to permit the +circulation of water under and around the jars. + +2. Have the water cover the tops of the jars by at least one inch. The +heat and pressure must be equal on all parts of the jars. + +3. Count time as soon as the water begins to _jump_ over the entire +surface. Keep it jumping. + +4. Remove jars from the water and tighten the covers as soon as the +time is up. + +Rapid cooling of the products prevents overcooking, clarifies the +liquid and preserves the shape and texture. + +Operation of steamers or "double-deckers" as they are sometimes +called. These have a small amount of water in a pan below two racks +and the products cook in steam instead of boiling water. + +1. Have water boiling in pan when products are put in. + +2. Use same time-table as for hot-water bath or wash boiler. + +3. Remove jars from steam at the end of the sterilizing period. Do not +allow them to "cool off" in the steamer. + +The operation of a water-seal canner is very simple. + +1. Jars put on racks and lowered in water as in wash-boiler but due +to an extra jacket the temperature is higher than boiling water. + +2. Follow time-table under water-seal. + + +OPERATION OF STEAM PRESSURE AND PRESSURE COOKER CANNER + +1. Place each jar in the canner as soon as it is packed. + +2. Have water come up to but not above the platform. + +3. Have canner absolutely steam tight. + +4. When canner has been filled fasten opposite clamps moderately +tight. When this has been done tighten each clamp fully. + +5. Allow pet cock to remain open until live steam blows from it. + +6. Close pet cock. + +7. Force pressure to the required point before counting time. + +8. Maintain a uniform pressure during the sterilizing period. + +9. Allow canner to cool before opening pet cock. + +10. Have pet cock completely closed during the cooling. + +11. Open pet cock before vacuum forms. This is evidenced by a rush of +air into the canner when the pet cock is open. You can test this by +placing the finger over the end of the pet cock. If a vacuum forms it +will draw the flesh of the finger into the opening. + +12. Remove jars from canner and tighten lids as soon as canner is +opened. + + +BREAKAGE OF JARS + +When breakage of jars occurs it is due to such causes as these: + +1. Overpacking jars. Corn, pumpkin and sweet potatoes swell or expand +in processing. Do not quite fill jars with these products. + +2. Placing cold jars in hot water or vice versa. As soon as jars are +filled with hot sirup or hot water, place immediately in the canner. + +3. Having the wire bail of glass top jars too tight. + +4. In steam canner, having too much water in the canner. The water +should not come above the tray. + +5. Cold draft striking the jars when they are removed from the canner. + +6. Wire spring too tight, thus breaking jar when contents expand. + + +MOLD ON CANNED PRODUCTS + +Mold may result from one or more of the following: + +1. Leaky rubbers or defective joints. + +2. Removing tops from the jars at the end of sterilizing period and +substituting new rubbers, without returning the jars to the canning +outfit for at least a few minutes. + +3. If the jars are kept in a damp cellar where the rubbers may +decompose, mold may enter through these decomposed rubbers. + + +ACIDITY OF TOMATOES AFTER CANNING + +Too great a degree of acidity in canned tomatoes may be due to +climatic conditions or overripe or underripe product. Such acidity +can be corrected by adding 1/4 teaspoonful of baking soda to one quart +of tomatoes. + + +WATER REQUIREMENTS FOR HOME CANNING + +The hardening of beans, peas and some other products after cooking or +processing, or the turning of green vegetables to a dark or russet +color usually indicates that the water contains too high a percentage +of mineral matter. Water used for canning purposes should be pure, +soft if possible or as free from objectionable and excessive qualities +of mineral matter as possible. If you are to can any large quantity of +food products and have difficulty with the water available, it would +be well for you to have the water analyzed and for you to secure the +advice of some one at your college of agriculture. + + +TOO MUCH SALT IN CANNED GOODS INJURIOUS TO QUALITY + +Most vegetables as well as meats are injured in quality by an +excessive use of salt for seasoning in the canning process. A little +salt is very palatable and its use should be encouraged but it is +better to add no salt in canning than to use too much, as it can be +added to suit the taste when served. + + +ALTITUDE AND ITS EFFECT ON CANNING + +Remember that practically all instructions on home canning are based +upon a time schedule for sterilization from sea level to an altitude +of 500 feet above sea level. When canning at an altitude of more than +500 feet above sea level, it will be necessary to use your judgment in +the increase of time for sterilizing on the basis of 20 per cent for +each 4,000 feet. + +Blanching means _boiling_, not hot. In different directions for +canning we often find "hot" water mentioned when boiling water is +intended. Water should be _boiling at a gallop_ when vegetables are +blanched--berries and soft fruits are not usually blanched, though +some are scalded to loosen the skin. + + +BERRIES OR FRUIT RISING TO THE TOP + +Some women are disturbed because berries and fruits have a tendency to +always rise to the top of the jar leaving a sirup space in the bottom. +To prevent this you can scald all berries and fruits which are not +ordinarily scalded, for one minute and then cold-dip them. They will +be softened some, but remain firm, and can be packed very closely in a +jar. They can be packed so closely that only a little sirup can be +added. When a jar thus packed comes from the sterilizer the berries or +fruit are not floating as they would be if they were not scalded. + +Another method employed to prevent berries from floating is to put the +hot sterilized jar on its side while cooling and to roll it frequently +during the cooling period. The berries are then evenly distributed +through the sirup. + +In canning mushrooms in tin, always use lacquered cans. Do not fail to +blanch and cold dip before packing, and remove the mushrooms +immediately after opening the tin cans. + +In canning cabbage and other similar products always soak the product +in cold brine for one hour before sterilizing. Use 1/2 pound salt to 12 +quarts water. This is believed to improve the flavor. Always wash +greens or other vegetables, to remove all dirt and grit. + + +TROUBLES WITH TIN CANS + +To discover pin-holes or any leaks in a tin can, immerse it in boiling +water after sealing and if there is any bubbling from the can, you may +rest assured it needs resealing. + +Swells in tin cans are caused by insufficient sterilization. The +action of bacteria causes gas to form in the can and as a result there +is a bulging at either end. If left alone long enough the cans will +explode. Watch carefully all bulging cans and use them first. +Sometimes a slight bulge occurs when a can has been filled too full. + +If you have trouble sealing tin cans the chances are that the can is +too full. See that no particle of food touches the top or when +soldering, if you employ that method of sealing, small pin holes will +be blown in the seal by escaping steam which is generated by the hot +sealer coming in contact with the cold food. Another cause of sealing +trouble lies sometimes in a poorly heated capping steel or because it +is not kept brightly tinned. To make a proper seal the steel must be +kept bright, hot and clean. + +Also, be sure you buy good solder as there are inferior grades that +are too poor to flow when properly heated. + + +FROZEN PRODUCTS + +Watch all jars and cans that have been subjected to a freeze. If the +cans or jars do not burst the only harm done is a slight softening of +the food tissues. In glass jars after freezing there is sometimes a +small crack left which will admit air and consequently bacteria. + +Sometimes cans and jars tip over in the wash boiler during +sterilizing. This is caused by using a false-bottom which is too low +or because it is not well perforated. Or it may be due to the fact +that the jar was not well packed and so may be too light in weight. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +GETTING READY TO DRY + + +For various reasons women have not taken so kindly to drying fruits +and vegetables as they have to canning these foods. + +One woman said to me: "I like the canning because I can come to a +demonstration and see the whole process carried through from start to +finish. The drying of strawberries cannot be completed in sixteen +minutes as the canning is." And another woman said: "What I do not +like about drying is having the stuff standing round the house +somewhere for so many hours. I like to get things in the jars and out +of sight." + +These two objections seem to be expressed more than any other. And in +addition there is a third objection to drying: "I want my prepared +food ready to use on a minute's notice. I can quickly open a can of my +fruit and vegetables and there it is ready. With my dried things I +have to allow time for soaking and cooking." This we will have to +admit is true. But what weight have these three arguments against the +many advantages of drying? + +When we study the history of food preservation we find that drying was +practiced before canning, pickling or preserving. I know my +grandmother successfully dried quantities of things. + +Vegetable and fruit drying have been little practiced for a +generation or more, though there have been some thrifty housekeepers +who have clung to their dried corn, peas, beans and apples. A friend +of mine says: "Why, dried corn has a much better, sweeter taste than +your canned stuff. I would rather have one little dish of my delicious +dried corn than two big dishes of your canned corn." + +Drying, I think we will all admit, does not and cannot take the place +of canning fruits and vegetables in glass or tin. Drying and canning +are twin sisters, and always go hand in hand. + +The ideal arrangement for all homes, whether on the farm, in the +village, in the town or in the city, is to have an ample supply of +canned food for emergencies and quick service, and an equally ample +supply of dried foods when meals are planned beforehand and there is +time enough for the soaking and cooking of the dried foods. + + +THE ADVANTAGES OF DRYING + +When we come right down to facts, drying has many advantages over +canning. + +The process is very simple, as you will see. The cost is slight. In +almost every home the necessary equipment, in its simplest form, is +already at hand. There is no expense for glass jars or tin cans, and +with ordinary care there is no loss of products, as there may be in +handling glass jars or from spoilage. The actual work requires less +time and less skill than canning and the dried products when properly +prepared are just as good as the canned ones--some say better. + +One special thing in favor of drying is the little storage space +needed. You can often reduce 100 pounds of fresh product to ten +pounds by drying, without any loss of food value and with little loss +of flavor. + +Dried products can be moved more conveniently than glass jars or tin +cans, for they are usually reduced to from one-third to one-fifth of +the original bulk. + +Another valuable thing about drying is that the little odds and ends +one would scarcely bother to can may be dried in the oven as you go +about your housework. + +I have often been asked the difference between the meaning of the +terms "evaporated," "dried," "desiccated" and "dehydrated." These +terms are used more or less interchangeably when applied to foods from +which the moisture has been removed. In a general way, however, +"evaporated" products are those from which the moisture has been +removed through the agency of artificial heat; dried fruit is that +which has been exposed to the heat of the sun, though not infrequently +the term is applied to products handled in the evaporator. The other +terms are commonly applied to products that have been evaporated by +one of the various patented processes in which equipment of some +special design has been used. + +To avoid any confusion we will use the general term "dried" for all +products that have enough of the water removed to prevent bacterial +action, but which still retain the maximum food value, color and +flavor of the original product. And that is what we want to accomplish +when we attempt to dry. + +How are we to remove the water and still retain food value, color and +flavor? There are three principal methods by which we can do this. +First, by artificial heat. Drying by artificial heat is done in the +oven or on top of a cookstove or range, in trays suspended on the +stove or in a specially constructed dryer built at home or purchased. + +Second, by the sun. Sun drying is done either out of doors in the sun, +under glass in sun parlors, or the products are hung in the attic +where the sun has free access. + +Third, satisfactory drying may be done by an air blast from an +electric fan. + +Of course any one of these may be used alone or two different methods +may be combined. You can start a product on the stove and finish it in +the sun, or _vice versa._ + +The simplest and yet the most effective drying may be done on plates +or dishes placed in the oven. It may be done on the back of the +kitchen stove with these same utensils while the oven is being used +for baking. In this way left-overs and other bits of food may be dried +with slight trouble while the stove is being used, and saved for +winter use. This method is especially effective for sweet corn. A few +sweet potatoes, apples or peas, or even a single turnip, may be dried +and saved. + +To keep the heat from being too great, when drying in the oven leave +the oven door partly open. For oven use, a simple tray may be made of +galvanized-wire screen of convenient size, with the edges bent up for +an inch or two on each side. At each corner this tray should have a +leg an inch or two in length to hold it up from the bottom of the oven +and permit circulation of air round the product. + +Oven drying in a gas range is an effective method if the temperature +is kept even. An oven thermometer is a great convenience, otherwise +the temperature will have to be carefully watched and the burners +turned as low as possible. It is economy in the end to purchase an +oven thermometer, for then you can have the temperature just right. It +is best to start the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit and dry at +130 degrees. Never go over 150 degrees. + +If you wish to dry in the oven over the kerosene stove, place +soapstones over each burner to prevent the heat from becoming too +intense. Turn the burners very low until the stones are thoroughly +heated. You can turn off the burners completely after the desired +temperature is reached and it will be maintained from the heat of the +stones for five or six hours. If more time than that is required for +the drying, it may be necessary to light the burners again before the +end of the process. The products should be turned constantly, so that +they may dry evenly. + +When using any oven for drying you can cover the oven racks with +cheesecloth and spread the products on them. Always have the racks two +or three inches apart to allow free circulation of air. + +An effective dryer for use over a stove or range may easily be made at +home. For the frame use strips of wood a half inch thick and two +inches wide. The trays or shelves are made of galvanized-wire screen +of small mesh tacked to the supports. Separate trays sliding on strips +attached to the framework are desirable. This dryer may be suspended +from the ceiling over the kitchen stove or range or over an oil, +gasoline or gas stove, and it may be used while cooking is being done. +If an oil stove is used there must be a tightly fitting tin or +galvanized-iron bottom to the dryer, to prevent the fumes of the oil +from reaching and passing through the material which is to be dried. A +bottom of this kind may be easily attached to any dryer, homemade or +commercial. A framework crane makes it possible for this dryer to be +swung to one side when not in use. + +A larger kind of homemade stove dryer can be made. This is a good +size: base, 16 by 24 inches; height, 36 inches. The lower part or +supporting framework, six inches high, is made of galvanized sheet +iron, slightly flaring toward the bottom, and with two ventilating +holes in each of the four sides. The frame which rests on this base is +made of strips of wood one or one and a half inches wide. Wooden +strips, an inch and a quarter wide and three inches apart, serve to +brace the sides and furnish supports for the trays. + +In a dryer of the dimensions given there is room for eight trays. The +sides, top and back are of galvanized-iron or tin sheets, tacked to +the framework, though thin strips of wood may be used instead of the +metal. Small hinges and a thumb latch are provided for the door. +Galvanized sheet iron, with numerous small holes in it, is used for +making the bottom of the dryer. To prevent direct heat from coming in +contact with the product and also to distribute the heat by radiation, +a piece of galvanized sheet iron is placed two inches above the +bottom. This piece is three inches shorter and three inches narrower +than the bottom and rests on two wires fastened to the sides. + +The trays are made of wooden frames of one-inch strips, to which is +tacked galvanized-wire screen. Each tray should be three inches +shorter than the dryer and enough narrower to allow it to slide +easily on the supports when being put in or taken out. + +In placing the trays in the dryer push the lower one back as far as it +will go, leaving a three-inch space in front. Place the next tray even +with the front, leaving the space at the back. Alternate all the trays +in this way to facilitate the circulation of the heated air. It is +well to have a ventilating opening, six by two inches, in the top of +the dryer to discharge moisture. The trays should be shifted during +the drying process to procure uniformity of drying. + +Several types of stove dryers are on the market. One of these has a +series of trays in a framework, forming a compartment. This is placed +on top of the stove. Another is a shallow metal box which is filled +with water. This is really a water-bath dryer. This dryer or +dehydrator can be used on either a gas or coal range. A thermometer is +necessary in order to maintain the right temperature. The slices of +vegetables or fruit are placed on the tray with the thermometer, and +the dryer does the work. + +Commercial dryers having their own furnaces may be bought at prices +ranging from $24 to $120. Some of these, in the smaller sizes, may be +bought without furnaces and used on top of the kitchen stove. The cost +is from $16 upward. + +Sun drying has much to recommend it. There is no expense for fuel, no +thermometer is needed, and there is no danger of overheating the +fruits or vegetables. + +For sun drying of fruits and vegetables, the simplest way is to spread +the slices or pieces on sheets of plain paper or lengths of muslin and +expose them to the sun. Muslin is to be preferred if there is danger +of sticking. Trays may be used instead of paper or muslin. Sun drying +requires bright, hot days and a breeze. Once or twice a day the +product should be turned or stirred and the dry pieces taken out. The +drying product should be covered with cheesecloth tacked to a frame +for protection from dust and flying insects. If trays are rested on +supports placed in pans of water, the products will be protected from +crawling insects. Care must be taken to provide protection from rain, +dew and moths. During rains and just before sunset the products should +be taken indoors. + +To make a cheap tray for use in sun drying, take strips of wood +three-quarters of an inch thick and two inches wide for the sides and +ends. To form the bottom, laths should be nailed to these strips, with +spaces of one-eighth of an inch between the laths to permit air +circulation. A length of four feet, corresponding to the standard +lengths of laths, is economical. Instead of the laths galvanized-wire +screen with openings of one-eighth or one-quarter of an inch, may be +used. In using wire the size of the tray should be regulated by the +width of wire screen obtainable. The trays should be of uniform size, +so that they may be stacked together for convenience in handling. + +A small homemade sun dryer, easily constructed, is made of light +strips of wood, a sheet of glass, a small amount of galvanized-wire +screen and some cheesecloth. A convenient size for the glass top is +eighteen by twenty-four inches. To hold the glass make a light wooden +frame of strips of wood a half inch thick and one inch wide. This +frame should have legs of material one by one and a half inches, with +a length of twelve inches for the front legs and eighteen inches for +those in the rear. This will cause the top to slope, which aids in +circulation of air and gives direct exposure to the rays of the sun. +As a tray support nail a strip of wood to the legs on each of the four +sides, about four inches below the top framework and sloping parallel +with the top. The tray is made of thin strips of wood about two inches +wide and has a galvanized-wire screen bottom. There will be a space of +about two inches between the top edges of the tray and the glass top +of the dryer, to allow for circulation of air. + +Protect both sides, the bottom and the front of the dryer with +cheesecloth, tacked on securely and snugly, to exclude insects and +dust without interfering with circulation. At the rear place a +cheesecloth curtain, tacked at the top but swinging free below, to +allow the tray to be moved in and out. Brace the bottom of this +curtain with a thin strip of wood, as is done in window shades. This +curtain is to be fastened to the legs by buttons when the tray is in +place. If you have a sunny, breezy attic you can hang your drying +trays there. + +The use of an electric fan is an effective means of drying. As there +is no danger of the food scorching, the fan proves as effective as the +sun for drying. + +Sliced vegetables or fruits are placed on trays one foot wide and +three feet long. These trays are stacked and the fan placed close to +one end, with the current of air directed lengthwise along the trays. +The number of trays to be used is regulated by the size of the fan. +Drying by this process may be done in twenty-four hours or less. With +sliced string beans and shredded sweet potatoes a few hours are +sufficient if the air is dry. + +Of importance equal to proper drying is the proper packing and storage +of the finished product. Use baking-powder and coffee cans and similar +covered tins, pasteboard boxes with tight-fitting covers, strong paper +bags, and patented paraffin paper boxes, which may be bought in +quantities at comparatively low cost. + +A paraffin container of the type used by oyster dealers for the +delivery of oysters will be found inexpensive and easily handled. If +using this or a baking-powder can or similar container, after filling +adjust the cover closely. The cover should then be sealed. To do this +paste a strip of paper round the top of the can, covering the joint +between can and cover for the purpose of excluding air. Pasteboard +boxes should be sealed by applying melted paraffin with a brush to the +joint. + +If a paper bag is used the top should be twisted, doubled over and +tied with a string. Moisture may be kept out of paper bags by coating +them, using a brush dipped into melted paraffin. Another good +precaution is to store bags in an ordinary lard pail or can or other +tin vessel having a closely fitting cover. + +The products should be stored in a cool, dry place, well ventilated +and protected from rats, mice and insects. In localities where the air +is very moist, moisture-proof containers must be used. It is good +practice to use small containers, so that it will not be necessary to +leave the contents exposed long after opening and before using. + +A very good plan is to pack just enough fruit or vegetables for one or +two meals in each container. This will lessen the chance of large +quantities being spoiled. For convenience label all packages. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +HOW TO DRY FRUITS + + +Having decided to add the accomplishment of drying to your other +housewifely arts, you have given some thought and study to the subject +of driers. You now know whether you prefer sun, artificial or fan +drying. You have either made or bought some kind of a drier. Little +other equipment is needed. + +A few good paring knives, some plates, and if possible some cutting or +slicing device to lighten the work of preparation are all that are +necessary. A sharp kitchen knife will serve every purpose in slicing +and cutting fruits for drying, if no other device is at hand. The +thickness of all slices of fruit should be from an eighth to a quarter +of an inch. Whether sliced or cut into strips the pieces should be +small, so as to dry quickly. They should not, however, be so small as +to make them hard to handle or to keep them from being used to +advantage in preparing dishes for the table, such as would be prepared +from fresh products. Berries are dried whole. Apples, quinces, peaches +and pears dry better if cut into halves, rings or quarters. + +Cleanliness is essential. A knife blade that is not bright and clean +will discolor the product on which it is used. + +Winter apples should be chosen for drying when possible, as sweet +apples and early varieties are not so well adapted to the purpose. +The Northern Spy, the Baldwin and the Ben Davis give a good-flavored +dried product. Most early varieties lack sufficient firmness of +texture for the best results. On the other hand, some comparatively +early kinds, such as Gravenstein and Porter, are considerably prized +in some sections. + +To prepare them for drying, apples are peeled, cored, trimmed and +sliced one quarter of an inch thick. Be sure to cut out all worm +holes, decayed spots and other blemishes. Defects are easily cut out +with an ordinary straight-back, sharp-pointed knife having a blade two +and a half to three inches long. + +To prevent discoloration, as fast as the fruit is prepared dip it into +a weak salt solution--three level teaspoonfuls of salt to one gallon +of water. After all the apples are prepared, remove surplus moisture +and put on trays, water-bath drier or whatever device you are using. + + +HOW TO REGULATE THE HEAT + +Start with the temperature at 110 degrees Fahrenheit, gradually raise +it to 130 degrees and do the drying at that temperature. It is +important to know the degree of heat in the drier, and this cannot be +determined very accurately except by using a thermometer. Inexpensive +oven thermometers can be bought or an ordinary thermometer can be +suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not used the greatest care +should be given to the regulation of the heat. The temperature in the +drier rises rather quickly and the product may scorch unless close +attention is given to it. + +The reason sun drying is popularly believed to give fruits and +vegetables a sweeter flavor probably is that in the sun they never are +scorched, whereas in the oven or over a stove scorching is likely to +happen unless one is very careful. An oven or dairy thermometer is a +good investment. If you do not have a thermometer test the heat by the +air feeling warm to the hand. The product should never be so hot that +it cannot be grasped in the hand. In order to prevent the fruit from +burning where artificial heat is used and to keep it from sticking to +the drier by remaining in contact with it too long, stir the fruit +occasionally. To insure the most uniform drying in sun drying, the +fruit also should be stirred occasionally. + +Remember that if trays with metal bottoms are used for drying, they +should be covered with cheesecloth to prevent acid action. Oven racks +may be covered with either cheesecloth or heavy wrapping paper. + +The interval between stirring varies with the type of drier used, with +the condition of the fruit and with the degree of heat maintained. +Make the first stirring within two hours after the drying is begun. +After that examine the product from time to time and stir often enough +to prevent scorching or sticking and to insure uniform drying. Use a +wooden paddle for stirring. Where several trays or racks are placed +one above the other, it is necessary to shift the trays from time to +time, so the upper tray goes to the bottom and the bottom tray to the +top. + +The time necessary for drying fruit depends upon several factors: The +type and construction of the drier; the depth to which the fruit is +spread; the method of preparing, whether sliced, quartered or whole; +the temperature maintained; and weather conditions, whether bright +and sunny or cloudy and damp. + +If the atmosphere is heavy and damp the drying is retarded. Under some +conditions it is hardly possible thoroughly to dry fruit. + +There is possibly no step in the entire drying process that requires +better-trained judgment than the matter of knowing when the fruit is +sufficiently dried. A little experience will soon teach this. + +The fruit should be so dry that when a handful of slices is pressed +together firmly into a ball the slices will be "springy" enough to +separate at once upon being released from the hand. No fruit should +have any visible moisture on the surface. As the dried apples, pears, +peaches and apricots are handled they should feel soft and velvety to +the touch and have a pliable texture. You do not want fruit so dry +that it will rattle. If fruits are brittle you have dried them too +much. + +After the apples and all other fruits are dried they must go through +another process, called "conditioning." The best way to "condition" +fruits is to place them in boxes or cans and pour them from one +container into another once a day for three or four successive days. +By doing this you mix the fruit thoroughly and give to the whole mass +an even degree of moisture. Pieces that are too dry will absorb +moisture from those that are too moist. + +You may lose a whole bag or jar of dried products if you neglect the +conditioning, for if one moist piece goes into that bag all is lost. +Moisture breeds mold and mold means decay. + +Ask yourself these questions: "Do I ever lose any dried products? Are +my dried products when soaked and cooked as near like the original +fruit as possible?" If you lose products and if your dried fruits are +tasteless you had better start the conditioning process. For with this +one step added to your drying you need lose no dried products, and you +need not dry the fruits to the brittle stage, as you must of necessity +do when you put them away immediately. + +After you have poured the dried products back and forth every day for +three or four days as an additional precaution, reheat the dried fruit +to 140 degrees just long enough--about thirty minutes--to allow the +heat to penetrate throughout the product. + +Two kinds of moths stand out prominently among insects that attack +dried fruits and vegetables. They are much more likely to get into the +fruit during the process of drying than to find their way through +boxes into the stored products. This applies particularly to drying in +the sun. The Indian-meal moth is the most destructive of these +insects. It is about three-eighths of an inch long and has a cloaked +appearance, one-third gray and the rest copper-brown. The fig moth is +about the same size, but dark, neutral gray. A minute, flattened +chocolate-brown beetle usually accompanies these moths and does +considerable damage. Both of the moths deposit their eggs on fruit +when it is on the drying racks--usually at dusk or after dark, for +these insects are not fond of daylight. + +It takes from three to ten days for the eggs to hatch into whitish or +pinkish grublike caterpillars, and from five to ten weeks from the +laying of the eggs before more moths appear to lay another lot of +eggs. A number of "broods" or generations are produced yearly, so if +a few of these moth eggs are stored away on dried fruits or vegetables +hundreds of caterpillars are produced and many pounds of valuable +material may be destroyed during the winter if the products are stored +in a warm room. Dried fruits stored in warm, dark bins or in sacks +offer especially favorable places for the development of these +destructive moths. + +It is evident that the larger the package, the greater the chance of a +few eggs doing much damage. Small cartons or containers confine the +injury from these moths to small quantities of material; for if the +containers are closed tightly the insects cannot easily escape from +them and infest other packages which may not have been infested +previously. + +If you are drying by sun and the products are not thoroughly dry at +night, finish the process on the stove. If you desire to carry it over +to the next day screen the drying racks early in the evening and +fasten down the cheesecloth. With these precautions and with proper +storage, no danger ordinarily need be feared from these insects. The +additional precaution of heating the dried product to 140 degrees for +thirty minutes sterilizes it if already infested. + +Though not necessary, tin cans or glass jars make good receptacles for +storage of dried fruits or vegetables. Pasteboard boxes with tight +covers, stout paper bags and patented paraffin paper cartons also +afford ample protection for dried products when protected from insects +and rodents. The dried products must be protected from outside +moisture, and will keep best in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. +These conditions, however, are difficult to obtain in the more humid +regions, and there moisture-tight containers should be used. If a +small amount of dried product is put in each receptacle, just enough +for one or two meals, it will not be necessary to open a container, +the contents of which cannot be consumed in a short time. If a paper +bag is used the upper part should be twisted into a neck, bent over +and tied tightly with a string. A further precaution is to place the +small bags in a tin container with a tightly fitting cover, such as an +ordinary lard can. All bags should bear a label. + +Pears and quinces usually are prepared and dried exactly as are +apples. Pears are attractive when cut lengthwise into halves, with the +stem and calyx removed but the core left in. Or they may be quartered. +If sliced like apples the drying period is shortened. + +Peaches usually are dried unpeeled, but they are better if peeled +before drying. The first step in the preparation of peaches is to +split them open to remove the pit. To do this, cut completely round +the peach in the line of the suture with a sharp knife. The cut must +be complete, for tearing of the flesh will make the finished product +less attractive. If the fruit is to be peeled the paring should be +done before it is cut open to remove the pit. + +To facilitate the removal of the skin, dip the peaches in a kettle of +boiling water for one and a half minutes; then plunge directly into +cold water, after which the skins can be easily slipped off. After the +pit has been removed, lay on drier pit side up. The juice of the fruit +will collect in the pit or "cup" and will add to the flavor and +quality of the dried peaches. The peaches can be cut into smaller +pieces if you wish to lessen the drying period. + +Plums and apricots are not peeled, but are cut into halves, the pits +removed and dried in the same way as peaches. Small, thin-fleshed +varieties of plums are not suitable for drying. + +When drying cherries always remove the stems. The pits may or may not +be removed. The best product for later cooking or eating has the pit +removed, though large quantities of juices are lost in the pitting +unless you provide some way of saving and utilizing it. + +A prune is simply a plum having certain qualities not possessed by all +plums. All prunes are plums, but not all plums are prunes. The final +test as to whether a plum is a prune is the ability to dry without +fermenting with the pit still remaining in the fruit. If a plum cannot +dry without fermentation unless the pit is removed, it is not a prune. +Prunes for drying, like other fruits, should be fully ripe. + +Prunes are merely washed and then dried without removing the pits. The +fruit is dry when the skin is well shrunken. The texture should be +firm but springy and pliable enough to yield readily when pressed in +the hand. The drying should not be continued until the individual +prunes rattle as they are brought in contact with one another in +handling. Prunes must be conditioned before storing. + +In drying, prunes shrink about two-thirds in weight--that is, for +every three pounds of fresh fruit you get one pound of finished +product. + +Smaller fruits, such as red and black raspberries, blackberries, +huckleberries, dewberries, strawberries and blueberries, are simply +washed and then put to dry. Berries must not be dried too hard; if +too much moisture is removed they will not resume their original form +when soaked in water. But the material must be dried sufficiently or +it will mold. Haven't you often tasted extremely seedy dried berries? +They were dried until they rattled. Stop the drying as soon as the +berries fail to stain the hand when pressed. + +To obtain the most satisfactory results soft fruits should be only one +layer deep on the drying trays. + +Fruits contain about 80 to 95 per cent water and when dried +sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per cent of water, so it is a +good plan to weigh before and after drying. The product should lose +from two-thirds to four-fifths of its weight. + + +STEPS IN FRUIT DRYING + +1. Thoroughly cleanse the product. + +2. Prepare the product by slicing and so on. + +3. Spread on trays; put in oven or put on commercial drier. + +4. Stir occasionally. + +5. Shift trays. + +6. Test for completeness of drying. + +7. "Condition" for three or four days. Sweet fruits may contain more +moisture without spoiling than those of low sugar content. + +8. Heat to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for thirty minutes, to kill all +insects. + +9. Pack immediately in available receptacles. + +10. Label and store. + + +FRUIT PASTES + +Fruit pastes are delicious and can be dried. + +1. Select, wash, prepare fruit. +2. Cook until soft; stir. +3. Add sugar to sweeten. +4. Continue cooking until very thick. +5. Spread out flat by spoonfuls on oiled paper. +6. Dry in slow oven; finish drying over kitchen range. +7. Turn from time to time like griddle cakes. + +Nuts of all kinds can be dried in these cakes, which may be left whole +or cut in strips with scissors. + + +CANDIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES + +1. Select product of uniform size and ripeness. + +2. Wash; prepare in usual way. + +3. Cut fruit in halves, quarters or smaller sections; cut vegetables +in narrow strips two and a half inches long. + +4. Drop in a sirup cooked until it spins a thread. To prepare ginger +sirup, add a few roots of ginger to the sirup. + +5. Cook until transparent. + +6. Drain. + +7. Dry in slow oven; Finish drying over kitchen range. + +8. Roll in granulated sugar. (May be omitted for fruits.) + + +This method is recommended especially for candied apples, peaches, +pears and carrots. + +In a properly constructed sun drier, all fruits will dry in from 3 to +12 hours, under normal summer conditions. Time depends on dryness of +atmosphere, sunshine and wind. Products dried in a sun drier, no +matter how crude, are superior to those dried in the open without +protection of some kind. Products dry more rapidly in high altitudes +than at sea level. + +Racks in oven can be used. Plates or platters can be used in oven. A +stove drier hung over the stove can be used. A water-bath or other +commercial drier can be used with the stove. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING FRUITS + +[A] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TIME IN HOURS TEMPERATURE 110 deg. TO 130 deg. F. + +[B] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] + | | | + Apples | Peel, core, trim and slice 1/4" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Drop in salt solution, 3 | | + |level teaspoonfuls to 1 gallon of | | + | water to prevent discoloration. | | + | | | + Apricots |Remove pits, but do not peel. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + | into halves and dry, "cup" side | | + | up. | | + Berries, All| | | + Kinds | Wash; stem or hull. | 4-5 | 24-36 + | | | + Cherries | Remove stems. Pit or not, as | 2-4 | 24-36 + | desired. If pitted, save and | | + | utilize juice. | | + | | | + Pears | Peel, core, trim and slice 1/4" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. Or peel, cut in halves | | + | lengthwise; remove stems and | | + | calyx. | | + | | | + Peaches |Peel, remove stones; cut in halves| 4-6 | 24-36 + | or smaller pieces. If in halves, | | + |lay pit or "cup" side up to retain| | + | juice. | | + | | | + Plums |Do not peel, but remove pits. Cut | 4-6 | 24-36 + |in halves and dry, "cup" side up. | | + | | | + Prunes | Wash; do not pit. | 5-7 | 24-36 + | | | + Quinces | Peel, core, trim and slice 1/4" | 4-6 | 24-36 + | thick. | | + | | | + Rhubarb | Select young stems. Wash and cut | 6-8 | 24-36 + | into 1/2" pieces, using very sharp | | + |knife. Do not remove skins, so the| | + | rhubarb will retain pink color. | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +HOW TO DRY VEGETABLES + + +Vegetable drying is a little more complicated than fruit drying, just +as vegetable canning is more complicated than fruit canning. Blanching +is an important part of the operation. It makes vegetable drying +satisfactory as well as easy and simple, just as it makes vegetable +canning possible. + +However, there is one difference between blanching vegetables for +canning and blanching them for drying. After repeated experiments it +has been found that for drying purposes it is best to blanch all +vegetables in steam rather than in boiling water. In vegetable canning +we blanch almost all vegetables in boiling water, usually steaming +only the members of the "green" family. + +So remember that for drying all vegetables are blanched in steam. To +do this steaming you can use your ordinary household steamer, such as +you use for steaming brown breads and suet puddings, or you can simply +place a colander over boiling water in a kettle. Do not allow the +colander to touch the water. If you are fortunate enough to possess a +pressure cooker, steam the vegetables for drying in it. + +Blanching is necessary for many reasons. It removes the strong +flavors, objectionable to many people. Beans, cabbage, turnips and +onions have too strong a flavor if dried without blanching. +Furthermore, it starts the color to flowing, just as it does in +canning. It removes the sticky coating round vegetables. Most +vegetables have a protective covering to prevent evaporation. The +removal of this covering by blanching facilitates drying. Blanching +also relaxes the tissues, drives out the air and improves the +capillary attraction, and as a result the drying is done in a much +shorter period. Products dry less rapidly when the texture is firm and +the tissue contains air. + +Blanching checks the ripening processes. The ripening process is +destroyed by heating and this is to be desired for drying purposes. + +Blanching kills the cells and thus prevents the hay-like flavor so +often noticed in unblanched products. It prevents changes after +drying, which otherwise will occur unless the water content is reduced +to about five per cent. + +Thorough blanching makes the product absolutely sanitary; no insect +eggs exist after blanching and cold-dipping. + +There is one precaution that must be followed: Do not blanch too long. +Blanching too long seems to break down the cell structure, so that the +product cannot be restored to its original color, shape or size. +Follow the blanching time-table for drying just as carefully as you +follow the blanching time-table for canning. + +After the blanching comes the cold-dip. For the benefit of new canning +and drying enthusiasts, let me explain that by "cold-dip" we mean +plunging the product immediately into a pan of very cold water or +holding it under the cold-water faucet until the product is thoroughly +cooled. Do not let the product stand in cold water, as it would then +lose more food value and absorb too much water. + +You can cold-dip the product without removing it from the colander, +strainer or steamer in which it is steamed. Plunge the vessel +containing the product into the cold water. + +The cold-dipping checks the cooking, sets the coloring matter which +was started to flowing in the blanching process, and it makes the +product much easier to handle. + +Let us now see just exactly what we must do when we want to dry sweet +corn, more of which is dried than of any other vegetable. All other +vegetables are dried in the same way as is corn, the only difference +being in the length of the blanching and drying period. + +All vegetables are prepared for drying just as they are prepared for +table use. When drying corn select ears that are young and tender, and +if possible freshly gathered. Products for drying should be in the +same perfect condition as you have them for table use. If wilted and +old it is not worth while drying them. + +Remove the husks and the silk, and steam--on the cob--for fifteen +minutes. This sets the milk, besides doing many other things which +blanching by steam always does. After the steaming, cold-dip the corn, +and then cut it from the cob, using a very sharp and flexible knife. +Cut the grains fine, but only halfway down to the cob; scrape out the +remainder of the grains, being careful not to scrape off any of the +chaff next to the cob. + +When field corn is used, the good, plump cooking stage is the proper +degree of ripeness for satisfactory drying. + +The corn should be thoroughly drained as this facilitates drying. You +can easily remove all surface moisture by placing the corn between +two towels and patting them. + +It is now ready for drying. The corn may be dried in the sun, but if +so, it is advisable first to dry it in the oven for ten or fifteen +minutes and then finish the drying in the sun. Never attempt sun +drying in moist weather. The corn may be dried by artificial heat, +either on top of the stove or in the oven, using either plates, +oven-racks properly covered, or any commercial dryer. + +Work quickly after the blanching and cold-dipping and get the corn +heated as quickly as possible in order to prevent souring. You get +"flat-sour" often when canning if you do not work quickly enough, and +you will get sour vegetables in drying if you work too slowly. + +Where artificial heat is used begin at a lower temperature and +gradually increase it. As the corn is drying, stir it from time to +time and readjust the trays if necessary. + +After the drying comes the test to determine whether or not the corn +is sufficiently dry. Vegetables at this point differ from fruits. +Fruits are dried only until leathery, whereas vegetables are dried +until they are bone-dry. They must crackle and snap. + +This test is sometimes used to see if the product is sufficiently dry: +Put some of it in a covered glass jar with a crisp soda cracker and +keep them there for a few hours. If the cracker loses its crispness +and becomes soft and damp there is still too much moisture in the +product and it should be dried a little longer to obtain the degree of +dryness required. + +After the corn is bone-dry it should, like all other vegetables and +fruits, be conditioned. This means to pour them from one bag or box +to another, once a day for three or four days. This enables you to +notice any moisture that may be left in the dried food. Foods that +show any traces of moisture should be returned to the drying tray for +a short time. + +Notice Lima beans particularly, as they require a longer conditioning +period than most vegetables. + +After the conditioning, in order to kill all insects and destroy all +eggs, it is advisable to place the vegetables on trays and heat them +in an oven for half an hour at a temperature of 140 degrees +Fahrenheit. Store directly from the oven. + +Dried vegetables are stored just as are dried fruits--in cans, cracked +jars that cannot be used for canning, fiber containers, cheesecloth, +paper bags or paraffin containers. + +In storing your dried products keep in mind these things: Protection +from moisture, insects, rats, mice, dust and light. If you observe all +these things it is unnecessary to have air-tight containers. + +All varieties of string beans can be dried, but only those fit for +table use should be used. Old, stringy, tough beans will remain the +same kind of beans when dried. There are two ways of preparing string, +wax or snap beans for drying: + +1. Wash; remove stem, tip and string. Cut or break into pieces +one-half to one inch long; blanch three to ten minutes, according to +age and freshness, in steam; cold-dip. Place on trays or dryer. If you +have a vegetable slicer it can be used for slicing the beans. + +2. Prepare as above, then blanch the whole beans. After cold-dipping, +thread them on coarse, strong thread, making long "necklaces" of +them; hang them above the stove or out of doors until dry. + +Lima beans should be shelled from the pod and then blanched two to +five minutes if young and tender. If larger and more mature blanch +five to ten minutes. + +Okra is blanched for three minutes. If the pods are young and small, +dry them whole. Older pods should be cut into quarter-inch slices. +Small tender pods are sometimes strung on stout thread and hung up to +dry. + +Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, removing the seed, +drying in the air, and finishing the drying in the dryer at 130 +degrees Fahrenheit. A more satisfactory method is to place peppers in +a biscuit pan in the oven and heat until the skins blister; or to +steam them until the skin softens, peel, split in half, take out seed, +and dry at 110 to 130 degrees. In drying thick-fleshed peppers like +the pimento, do not increase heat too quickly, but dry slowly and +evenly. + +Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until wilted +and the drying finished in the dryer, or they may be dried entirely in +the sun. + +Peppers often are dried whole. If large they can be strung on thread; +if small the whole plant can be hung up to dry. + +Shell full-grown peas and blanch three to five minutes; cold-dip and +then spread in a single layer on trays to dry. + +When drying the very tender young sugar peas, use the pod also. Wash +and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Blanch six minutes, cold-dip and +remove surplus moisture before drying. When drying beets always select +young, quickly grown, tender beets. Steam twenty to thirty minutes, or +until the skin cracks. Dip in cold water, peel and slice into +one-eighth to one-quarter inch slices. Then dry. + +Carrots having a large, woody core should not be dried. Blanch six +minutes; cold-dip. Carrots are often sliced lengthwise into pieces +about one-eighth inch thick. Parsnips, kohl-rabi, celeriac and salsify +are prepared in the same way as are carrots. + +Onions should be held under water while peeling and slicing to avoid +smarting of the eyes. They should be sliced into one-eighth to +one-quarter inch slices. Blanch five minutes, cold-dip, remove +superfluous moisture and dry. Leeks are handled as are onions. + +Select well-developed heads of cabbage and remove all loose outside +leaves. Split the cabbage, remove the hard, woody core and slice the +remainder of the head with a kraut slicer or cutter or with a large, +sharp knife. Blanch five to ten minutes and cold-dip; dry. + +Spinach and parsley should be carefully washed. Steam, cold-dip and +dry. If the spinach is sliced the drying will be greatly facilitated. +Beet tops, Swiss chard and celery are prepared like spinach. + +Select sound, well-matured Irish potatoes. Wash and boil or steam +until nearly done. Peel and pass through a meat grinder or a potato +ricer. Collect the shred in layers on a tray and dry until brittle. If +toasted slightly in an oven when dry, the flavor is improved somewhat; +or boil or steam until nearly done, peel, cut into quarter-inch +slices, spread on trays, and dry until brittle. Peeling may be +omitted, but the product will be very much inferior in flavor. Irish +potatoes cannot be satisfactorily dried unless they are first cooked; +otherwise they will discolor. + +All root vegetables must be thoroughly cleaned, otherwise an earthy +flavor may cling to them. One decayed root may seriously affect +several pots of vegetable soup. + + +GENERAL SUGGESTIONS + +1. All vegetables should be completely dried in from two to +twenty-four hours. + +2. Materials should be turned or stirred several times to secure a +uniform product. + +3. If heat is used guard against scorching. The door is left open if +an oven is used; the temperature should be about 110 degrees at the +beginning and usually should not exceed 130 degrees. Onions, string +beans and peas will yellow at more than 140 degrees. + +4. A thermometer is essential to successful drying by artificial heat. + +5. It is impossible to give definite lengths of times for the +completion of sun drying, as this varies not only with different +products but with the weather. A sultry, rainy day is the worst for +drying. + +6. Vegetables should be stone dry. + +7. Succulent vegetables and fruits contain from 80 to 95 per cent of +water, and when dried sufficiently still retain from 15 to 20 per +cent; so it is a good plan to weigh before and after drying as a +check. The product should lose from two-thirds to four-fifths of its +weight. + +8. Work rapidly to prevent souring of vegetables. + +9. Small vegetables, mature beans and peas and small onions may be +dried whole. Larger vegetables should be cut up so as to expose more +surface for drying. + +10. The slicing, cutting and shredding should be done before +blanching, with the exception of corn, which is cut from the cob after +blanching. + + +TIME-TABLE FOR DRYING VEGETABLES + + +[A] BLANCHING BY STEAM, TIME ON MINUTES + +[B] ARTIFICIAL HEAT TEMPERATURE 110 deg. TO 130 deg. F. + APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + +[C] FAN--NO HEAT APPROXIMATE TIME IN HOURS + + PRODUCT | PREPARATION | [A] | [B] | [C] + | | + ASPARAGUS |Wash and cut into pieces| 2 to 4 | 4 to 8 |12 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, | | | | + GREEN | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + STRING | and string | 3 to 10 | 21/2 to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + BEANS, WAX | Wash; remove stem, tip | | | + | and string; cut into | | | + | pieces or dry whole | 3 to 10 | 2 to 4 | 5 to 8 + | | | | + BEETS | Leave skin on while |[1]20 to 30| 21/2 to 3 |12 to 16 + | steaming | | | + BRUSSELS | | | | + SPROUTS |Divide into small pieces| 6 | 3 to 5 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CABBAGE |Remove all loose outside| | | + | leaves; split cabbage | | | + | and remove woody core; | 5 to 10 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | slice or shred | | | + | | | | + CARROTS | Wash; slice lengthwise | | | + | into pieces 1/8-inch | 6 | 21/2 to 3 |20 to 24 + | thick | | | + | | | | + CAULIFLOWER|Clean; divide into small| | | + | bunches | 6 | 2 to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERY | Wash carefully and | | | + | remove leaves; slice | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 16 + | | | | + CELERIAC |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 21/2 to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + CORN, SWEET| Blanch on cob. From 12 | | | + |ears of corn you should | | | + | obtain 1 pound dried | 15 | 3 to 4 | 2 days + | corn | | | + | | | | + KOHL-RABI |Clean; pare; slice into | | | + | 1/8-inch pieces | 6 | 21/2 to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LEEKS | Cut into 1/2-inch strips | 5 | 21/2 to 3 | 8 to 12 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (YOUNG) | Shell | 2 to 5 | 3 to 31/2 |12 to 20 + | | | | + LIMA BEANS | | | | + (OLD) | Shell | 5 to 10 | 3 to 31/2 |12 to 20 + | | | | + MUSHROOMS | Wash; cut into pieces | 5 | 3 to 5 |12 to 24 + | | | | + OKRA | Dry young pods whole. | | | + | Cut old pods in 1/4-inch | 3 | 2 to 3 |12 to 20 + | slices | | | + | | | | + ONIONS | Remove outside papery | | | + | covering; cut off tops | | | + | and roots; slice thin | 5 | 21/2 to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + PARSNIPS | Clean; pare; cut into | | | + | 1/2-inch slices | 6 | 21/2 to 3 |20 to 24 + | | | | + PEAS | Can be dried whole or | | | + | put through grinder | 3 to 5 | 31/2 |12 to 20 + | | | | + PEPPERS |Skin blistered in oven, | | | + |steamed or sun-withered | .. | 3 to 4 | 24 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and rice them | .. | 21/2 | 5 to 6 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + IRISH | Cook and slice them | | | + | 1/4-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and rice them | .. | 21/2 |12 to 20 + | | | | + POTATOES, | | | | + SWEET | Cook and slice them | | | + | 1/4-inch thick | .. | 6 |12 to 20 + | | | | + PUMPKINS | | | | + AND SQUASH | Cut into 1/3-inch | | | + | strips; peel; remove | 3 | 3 to 4 | 16 + | seeds | | | + | | | | + SPINACH |Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + SALSIFY | Wash; cut into 1/2-inch | 6 | 21/2 to 3 |20 to 24 + | slices | | | + | + SWISS CHARD|Wash thoroughly; can be | | | + | sliced | 3 | 3 to 4 |12 to 18 + | | | | + TOMATOES | Wash; slice after | | | + |steaming to loosen skin | 2 to 3 | 21/2 to 3 |12 to 16 + | | | | + TURNIPS | Pare and slice thin | 5 | 21/2 to 3 |12 to 18 + | | | | + --------------------------------------------------------------------- + +[Footnote 1: Till skin cracks.] + +In a properly constructed sun drier vegetables will dry in from 3 to +12 hours under normal summer conditions. Products dried in a sun drier +are superior to those dried in the open without any protection. +Products dry more quickly in high altitudes than at sea level. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +EVERY STEP IN BRINING + + +We have learned how to preserve fruit and vegetables by canning and +drying and now we are going to learn another method to preserve foods, +in which salt is used. We use this salt method for vegetables. It is +not adapted to fruits. We may pickle apples, pears and peaches, but we +ferment, brine and dry-salt only vegetables. + +This salt method is not a substitute for drying or canning, but just +an additional method we may employ. Every thrifty housewife of to-day +wants her shelves of canned foods, her boxes of dried foods and her +crocks of salted foods. Each kind has its proper function to perform +in the household. One cannot take the place of the other. + +For women on the farm salting is a salvation. In busy seasons when +canning and drying seem an impossibility, a great many vegetables can +be saved by this method in a very short time. The labor required is +very small, as no cooking is necessary. A good supply of salt is the +one necessity. + +Besides the saving of time, salting saves jars, which are absolutely +necessary in canning. Old containers can be used if they are +thoroughly cleansed. The vegetables can be put in any container, so +long as it holds water and is not made of metal. Metal containers +should not be used. Old kegs, butter and lard tubs if water-tight, +stoneware jars or crocks, chipped preserve jars, glass jars with +missing covers and covered enamel buckets can all be utilized. Avoid +using tubs made of pitch or soft pine unless coated with melted +paraffin, as they impart a flavor to the vegetables. Maple is the +best. + + +THREE METHODS OF SALTING FOOD + +There are three ways of preserving food by salting: First, +fermentation with dry salting; second, fermentation in brine or +brining; and third, salting without fermentation, or dry salting. + +Dry Salting. Fermentation with dry salting consists in packing the +material with a small amount of salt. No water is used, for the salt +will extract the water from the vegetables and this forms a brine. +This is the simplest process of all three and is used mostly for +cabbage. To make sauerkraut proceed as follows: The outside green +leaves of the cabbage should be removed, just as in preparing the head +for boiling. Never use any decayed or bruised leaves. Quarter the +heads and shred the cabbage very finely. There are shredding machines +on the market, but if one is not available use a slaw cutter or a +large sharp knife. + +After the cabbage is shredded pack at once into a clean barrel, keg or +tub, or into an earthenware crock holding four or five gallons. The +smaller containers are recommended for household use. When packing +distribute the salt as uniformly as possible, using one pound of salt +to forty pounds of cabbage. Sprinkle a little salt in the container +and put in a layer of three or four inches of shredded cabbage, then +pack down with a wooden utensil like a potato masher. Repeat with +salt, cabbage and packing until the container is full or the shredded +cabbage is all used. + +Press the cabbage down as tightly as possible and apply a cloth, and +then a glazed plate or a board cover which will go inside the holder. +If using a wooden cover select wood free from pitch, such as basswood. +On top of this cover place stone, bricks or other weights--use flint +or granite; avoid the use of limestone, sandstone or marble. These +weights serve to keep vegetables beneath the surface of the liquid. +The proportion of salt to food when fermenting with dry salt is a +quarter pound of salt to ten pounds of food. Do not use more, for the +product will taste too salty. + +Allow fermentation to proceed for ten days or two weeks, if the room +is warm. In a cellar or other cool place three to five weeks may be +required. Skim off the film which forms when fermentation starts and +repeat this daily if necessary to keep this film from becoming a scum. +When gas bubbles cease to rise when you strike the side of the +container, fermentation is complete. If there is a scum it should be +removed. + +As a final step pour very hot melted paraffin over the brine until it +forms a layer from a quarter to a half-inch thick, to prevent the +formation of the scum which occurs if the weather is warm or the +storage place is not well cooled. The cabbage may be used as soon as +the bubbles cease to rise. If scum forms and remains the cabbage will +spoil. You may can the cabbage as soon as bubbles cease to rise and +fermentation is complete. To can, fill jars, adjust rubbers and partly +seal. Sterilize 120 minutes in hot-water bath, or 60 minutes in +steam-pressure outfit at five to ten pounds pressure. + +The vital factor in preserving the material by this method is the +lactic acid which develops in fermentation. + +If the vegetables are covered with a very strong brine or are packed +with a fairly large amount of salt, lactic acid fermentation and also +the growth of other forms of bacteria and molds are prevented. This +method of preservation is especially applicable to those vegetables +which contain so little sugar that sufficient lactic acid cannot be +formed by bacterial action to insure their preservation. + +In the well-known method of vinegar pickling the acetic acid of the +vinegar acts as a preservative like the lactic acid produced by +fermentation. Sometimes brining precedes pickling in vinegar, and +often the pickling is modified by the addition of sugar and spices, +which add flavor as well as helping to preserve the fruit or +vegetables. In some cases olive oil or some other table oil is added +to the vinegar, as in the making of oil cucumber pickles. + +Besides sauerkraut, string beans, beet tops, turnip tops, greens, kale +and dandelions are adapted for fermentation with dry salting. String +beans should be young, tender and not overgrown. Remove the tip ends +and strings; cut or break into pieces about two inches long. Wash the +beet and turnip tops as well as all greens, in order to remove dirt +and grit. Weigh all products that are to be salted. + +For salting, a supply of ordinary fine salt, which can be purchased in +bulk for about two cents a pound, is most satisfactory for general +use. Table salt will do very well, but it is rather expensive if large +quantities of vegetables are to be preserved. The rather coarse +salt--known in the trade as "ground alum salt"--which is used in +freezing ice cream can be used. Rock salt because of its coarseness +and impurities should not be used. + +A weight must be used. The size of the weight depends on the quantity +of material being preserved. For a five-gallon keg a weight of ten +pounds will be sufficient, but if a larger barrel is used a heavier +weight will be needed. The weight should be sufficient to extract the +juices to form a brine, which will cover the top in about twenty-four +hours. If a brine does not form it may be necessary to add more stones +after the material has stood a while. + +There always will be more or less bubbling and foaming of the brine +during the first stages of fermentation. After this ceases a thin film +will appear which will rapidly spread over the whole surface and +quickly develop into a heavy, folded membrane. This scum is a growth +of yeast-like organisms which feed upon the acid formed by +fermentation. If allowed to grow undisturbed it will eventually +destroy all the acid and the fermented material will spoil. To prevent +mold from forming it is necessary to exclude the air from the surface +of the brine. + +Perhaps the best method is to cover the surface--over the board and +round the weight--with very hot, melted paraffin. If the paraffin is +hot enough to make the brine boil when poured in, the paraffin will +form a smooth, even layer before hardening. Upon solidifying, it forms +an air-tight seal. Oils, such as cottonseed oil or the tasteless +liquid petroleum, may also be used for this purpose. As a measure of +safety with crocks, it is advisable to cover the top with a cloth +soaked in melted paraffin. Put the cover in place before the paraffin +hardens. + +After sealing with paraffin the containers should be set where they +will not be disturbed until the contents are to be used. Any attempt +to remove them from one place to another may break the paraffin seal +and necessitate resealing. + +Some vegetables which do not contain sufficient water are better +fermented by covering them with a weak brine. Those which are the most +satisfactory when fermented in this way are cucumbers, string beans, +green tomatoes, beets, beet tops, turnip tops, corn and green peas. +The general directions for this brining are as follows: + +Wash the vegetables, drain off the surplus water and pack them in a +keg, crock, or other utensil until it is nearly full--within about +three inches of the top of the vessel. Prepare a weak brine as +follows: To each gallon of water used add one-half pint of vinegar and +three-fourths of a cup of salt and stir until the salt is entirely +dissolved. The vinegar is used primarily to keep down the growth of +injurious bacteria until the lactic-acid ferment starts, but it also +adds to the flavor. Spices may be added if desired. + +The amount of brine necessary to cover the vegetables will be equal to +about one-half the volume of the material to be fermented. For +example, if a five-gallon keg is to be packed, two and one-half +gallons will be needed. It is best to make up at one time all the +brine needed on one day. A clean tub or barrel can be used for mixing +the brine. Pour the brine over the vegetables and cover. Set the +vessel and its contents away in a moderately warm room to ferment. + +When fermentation ceases, the container should be placed in a cool +cellar or storeroom and the surface of the liquid treated to prevent +mold. Before adding the paraffin or cottonseed oil, any scum or mold +which may have formed on the surface of the liquid should be removed +by skimming. + +These general directions can always be followed with successful +results, but some modifications are desirable for certain vegetables. + +Cucumbers--Dill Style. To pickle cucumbers wash the cucumbers and +pack into a clean, water-tight barrel, keg or crock. On the bottom of +the barrel place a layer of dill weed and a handful of mixed spice. +Add another layer of dill and another handful of spice when the barrel +is half full, and when almost full, add a third layer. If a keg or +crock is used, the amount of dill and spice can be reduced in +proportion to the size of the receptacle. When the container has been +filled to within a few inches of the top, add a layer of covering +material--beet leaves or grape leaves--about an inch thick. If any +spoilage should occur on the surface, this layer will protect the +vegetables beneath. Press down with a clean board weighted with bricks +or stone. + +Make the brine as given in the general rules. Add sufficient brine to +cover the material and allow it to stand twenty-four hours. Then make +air-tight. The time necessary for complete fermentation to occur +depends upon the temperature. In a warm place five days to a week may +suffice; in a cool cellar three to four weeks. + +The dill and spices may be omitted, in which case we then have plain +cucumbers. + +String Beans. Remove the ends and strings from the beans and cut +into pieces about two inches long; pack in the container; cover with +brine and ferment. + +Green Tomatoes. Green tomatoes should be packed whole and prepared +as cucumbers. The dill and spice may be added if desired. + +Beets. Beets must be scrubbed thoroughly and packed whole. If peeled +or sliced before being fermented the beets lose considerable color and +flavor. + +Beet Tops and Turnip Tops. These should be washed thoroughly and +packed into the container without being cut up. + +Peas. Green peas should be shelled and packed in the same way as +string beans. It is advisable to use fairly small containers for peas, +so that the quantity opened up will be used before it has a chance to +spoil. + +Corn. Husk and clean the silk from the corn; wash and place the ears +on end in the jar, packing the jar nearly full. Pour the brine over +the ears; add cover and weights. Fermented corn has a sour taste, +which may not be relished if the corn is eaten alone. For this reason +it will be preferable in most cases to preserve corn by canning, +drying or by salting without fermentation. Fermented corn, however, +may be used in the preparation of some dishes, such as chowders, +omelets, and so forth, where its flavor will be masked to some extent +by the other ingredients. To some people this peculiar acid taste of +fermented corn is not at all objectionable. + +Salting Without Fermentation. In this method the vegetables are +packed with enough salt to prevent fermentation or the growth of +yeasts or molds. The vegetables preserved most satisfactorily by this +method are dandelions, beet tops, turnip tops, spinach, kale, chard, +cabbage, cauliflower, string beans, green peas and corn. The following +directions should be followed: + +The vegetables should be washed, drained and weighed. The amount of +salt needed will be a quarter of the weight of the vegetables. Kegs or +crocks make satisfactory containers. Put a layer of vegetables about +an inch thick on the bottom of the container. Cover this with salt. +Continue making alternate layers of vegetables and salt until the +container is almost filled. The salt should be evenly distributed so +that it will not be necessary to use more salt than the quantity +required in proportion to the weights of the vegetables that are used. + +Cover the surface with a cloth, and a board of glazed plate. Place a +weight on these and set aside in a cool place. If sufficient liquor to +cover the vegetables has not been extracted pour in enough strong +brine--one pound of salt to two quarts of water--to cover the surface +round the corner. + +The top layer of vegetables should be kept under the brine to prevent +molding. There will be some bubbling at first. As soon as this stops, +set the container where it will not be disturbed until ready for use. +Seal by pouring very hot paraffin over the surface. + +String beans should be cut in two-inch pieces. Peas should be shelled. +Cabbage should be shredded in the same way as for sauerkraut. Corn, +however, requires somewhat different treatment, and the directions for +salting it are as follows: + +Salted Corn. Husk the ears of corn and remove the silk. Cook in +boiling water for about ten minutes to set the milk. Cut off the corn +from the cob with a sharp knife. Weigh the corn and pack in layers +with a quarter its weight of fine salt, as described above. + +Some experts insist on blanching and cold-dipping all vegetables for +dry-salting without fermentation. They say that, though it is not +necessary, it makes the tissues softer and consequently they are more +easily penetrated by the salt. Furthermore, when preparing these +products for the table the salt soaks out more readily and the +products cook much more quickly if they have been blanched. So where +there is time it seems advisable to blanch for five minutes for +dry-salting. + +If properly prepared and stored, fermented, brined and dry-salted +products will keep for a long time. It is absolutely necessary to +prevent mold from growing on the surface of the brine of fermented +vegetables, by the addition of paraffin or in some other way. +Protection of the surface of dry-salted vegetables is desirable, but +not necessary if the containers are covered to prevent the evaporation +of the brine. Most trouble with the fermented or salted products may +be traced to carelessness in protecting the surface of the brine. + + +POINTS TO REMEMBER + +These are the special things to remember about fermentation, brining +and dry-salting: + +1. For fermentation, such as in making sauerkraut, use a quarter pound +of salt to ten pounds of food material. For every 100 pounds of food +add two and a half pounds of salt. + +2. For brining use three-quarters of a cupful of salt and one cupful +of vinegar to each gallon of water. + +3. For dry-salting use one pound of salt to four pounds of food. + +4. Do not use vinegar, pickle or pork barrels as containers for salted +foods unless they are very thoroughly scalded. + +5. Thoroughly scald all containers, covers, weights and cloths before +using. + +6. If using glass jars put a cork inside to press the food down. If +white vaseline is rubbed on the rubber rings the solution will not get +through rubber and be lost. + +7. After adding salt or brine for fermented foods, cover the food +material with a piece of muslin or cheesecloth six inches larger in +diameter than the diameter of the container. Tuck this in round the +top of the food, cover with weight and adjust lid of container. + +8. During fermentation keep the cover on loosely until all bubbles +cease. Test by slightly knocking container to see if any bubbles +appear on the surface. + +9. When you have made this test and discovered that the bubbling has +ceased, then it is time to protect the food from all organisms which +destroy lactic acid. + +10. To protect the food cover with hot melted paraffin or liquid oil. + +11. If evaporation takes place, add water or brine to make up the +original amount of water. + +12. When dry sealing is used let the product stand twenty-four to +thirty-six hours, then add strong brine to fill the containers. The +water from the vegetables usually only half fills the containers. + +TABLE FOR PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES BY SALT + + + METHODS |VEGETABLES ADAPTED| AMOUNT OF SALT | OTHER + | TO METHOD | | INGREDIENTS + | | | NEEDED + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + I. Dry |Cabbage, which is |1/4-lb. salt to 10 | No other. + salting with |converted by this | lbs. food or 21/2 | + fermentation.| method into |lbs. salt to 100 | + |sauerkraut, string| lbs. food. | + |beans, beet tops, | | + | turnip tops, | | + | greens, kale and | | + | dandelions. | | + | | | + II. |Cucumbers, string | 3/4-cup salt, 1 |Dill and spices + Fermentation | beans, green | gallon water, 1 |can be added. 1 + with brine. | tomatoes, beets, | cup vinegar for |lb. dry dill or + | beet tops, corn |brine. Amount of | 2 lbs. green + | and green peas. |brine required is| dill and 1 oz. + | |equal to 1/2 volume| spices for a + | | of food. |4-gallon crock. + | | | + III. Dry | Dandelions, beet | 25 lbs. salt to | Blanch and + salting |tops, turnip tops,|100 lbs. of food.| cold-dip + without | spinach, kale, |Salt should be 1/4 | vegetables for + fermentation.| chard, cabbage, | weight of | five minutes + | cauliflower, | vegetable. | before dry + | string beans, | | salting. + | green peas, and | | + | corn. | | + | | | + | | | + -------------------------------------------------------------------- + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +CURING, SMOKING AND PRESERVING MEAT + + +Many farmers seem to have more trouble with the curing of meats than +with the slaughtering. This part of the work is indeed very important +as it determines whether one will have good tasting cured meat or meat +that is too salty or possibly that is far removed from the original +taste of the raw product. + +It is worth every farmer or farmerette's attention to spend some time +on this problem as it pays so well in the resulting, good tasting +meat. Why not have a superior grade of home-cured meat as easily as a +poor grade? Work carefully and accurately done will produce good +results while work slovenly or carelessly done can produce nothing but +poor results. To cure meat so that it is not only delicious but has +good keeping qualities is an art and accomplishment worth striving +for. A pride in this work is just as fine and worth while as the +housewife's pride in her culinary skill or the pride of any other +professional in his or her line of work. To-day we are thinking of +food and its problems as never before and it behooves us all to put +more time, thought, care and skill on all things that pertain to +foods. And as meat is such an essential item in our diet, meat +problems should receive their due attention. + +All meat that is to be cured should always be thoroughly cooled and +cut into the desired convenient sizes before it is put into the brine +or packed in dry salt. + +The pieces most commonly used for curing are the ham, shoulder and +bacon pieces from pork. From beef we use the cheaper, tougher cuts +such as the plate, shoulder and chuck ribs. Mutton is seldom cured and +preserved. + +The ham should be cut off at the hock joint, the spare ribs taken out +of the bacon, and the ragged edges trimmed off smooth. If ragged edges +or scraggy ends are left these portions will become too dry in the +curing and will practically be wasted. + +After all the animal heat is removed from the meat and it is properly +cut it is then ready for the curing. If salt is put on the meat before +the animal heat is all removed, it will have a tendency to shrink the +muscles and form a coating on the outside which will not allow the +generating gases to escape. Meat should never be in a frozen condition +when the salt is added as the frost will prevent the proper +penetration of the brine and uneven curing will be the result. + + +METHODS OF CURING MEAT + +The two most common methods of curing meat are first the brine or +sugar cure process and second the dry-curing process. For general farm +use the brine cured process is the better. It requires less time, less +effort and not such an exacting place for the work. On most farms it +is impossible to secure a desirable place in which to do the +dry-curing as the meat is exposed to rats, cats, flies and other +insects. The dry-curing requires considerable time to rub and salt the +meat at different times while the only attention that is necessary for +brine-curing is to properly prepare and pack the meat in the vessel +and prepare the brine for it. + + +UTENSILS FOR CURING + +If possible use a round container for the curing. It is easier to put +the meat in tightly, and the space can be used to better advantage. A +hardwood barrel of some kind is excellent. Sirup, molasses or lard +barrels which have been thoroughly cleaned are very satisfactory. If +you use a vinegar or an oil barrel it should be well burned on the +inside before using. Stone crocks or jars are sometimes used but they +are expensive and cumbersome to handle besides the constant danger of +loss of brine from breakage. + + +PRESERVATIVES + +For curing the meat the farmer usually uses salt, salt peter, white or +brown sugar or molasses. These are the necessary preservatives. The +others such as boracic acid, borax and soda are often used for +sweetening the brine and to keep it from spoiling but are not +absolutely essential. The salt extracts moisture and acts as a +preservative. The sugar or molasses imparts a nice flavor and has a +tendency to keep the muscle tissue soft in contrast to the salt, which +has a tendency to make it hard and dry. So the salt and sugar have two +distinct functions to perform, the one to harden and preserve, the +other to soften and sweeten. If you have a favorite recipe that has +proved satisfactory and you want to use sorghum or molasses instead of +sugar add one pound more of the molasses. If you have been accustomed +to using 2 pounds of sugar then use 3 pounds of the other sweetening. + +Salt peter is not absolutely necessary as far as the preserving is +concerned but it helps to hold the red color of the lean meat. If salt +peter is not used the lean meat will be gray in color. It may possibly +be a little tenderer if the salt peter is not used as the salt peter +tends to harden the meat. Chili salt peter can be substituted in place +of salt peter, if only four-fifths as much is used. + + +THE SUGAR BRINE CURE + +All formulas for the sugar brine cure are practically the same varying +only a little in the proportions of sugar, salt and salt peter. If you +have a formula that you have tried for years and have found it to be +satisfactory there is no reason you should attempt a new one. But for +those who want to try a different formula or recipe I will give you +this reliable one that is widely used and indorsed by several +agricultural colleges. + +The container should be scalded thoroughly. Sprinkle a layer of salt +over the bottom and over each layer of meat as it is packed in, skin +down. When full, cover meat with boards and weight down with a stone +so that all will be below the brine, which is made as follows: + +Weigh out for each 100 pounds of meat, 8 pounds of salt, 2 pounds of +sugar (preferably brown) or 3 pounds of molasses, and 2 ounces of salt +peter. Dissolve all in 4 gallons of water. This should be boiled, and +when thoroughly cooled, cover the meat. Seven days after brine is put +on, meat should be repacked in another barrel in reverse order. The +pieces that were on top should be placed on the bottom. The brine is +poured over as before. This is repeated on the fourteenth and +twenty-first days, thus giving an even cure to all pieces. Bacon +should remain in the brine from four to six weeks, and hams six to +eight weeks, depending on the size of the pieces. When cured, each +piece should be scrubbed with tepid water and hung to drain several +days before smoking; no two pieces should come in contact. For all +curing always use dairy salt and _not table_ salt, as the latter +contains starch to keep it dry and this starch may cause the meat to +spoil. If you carefully follow these directions you will have +delicious sugar-cured hams and bacon. + + +CORNED BEEF + +It is desirable to have an ample supply of corned beef on hand. For +this any part of the beef may be used but the parts usually selected +are the plate, rump, cross-ribs and brisket, which are the tougher +cuts of the meat. The brisket and plate are especially good because of +the character of the fat, which is somewhat like a tissue. Cut all +around the meat to about the same thickness, so that it will make an +even layer in the barrel. It is best to remove the bone, although this +is not necessary. Be sure to start the pickling or curing while the +meat is perfectly fresh, but well chilled. Do not wait like some +farmers do until they think the meat is beginning to spoil and then +salt it down just to save it. Allow ten pounds of dairy salt to each +100 pounds of meat. Sprinkle a layer of the salt in the bottom of the +crock, barrel, or whatever container is used. Have the salt about +one-fourth of an inch in depth. After the layer is in the bottom of +the container put the cuts of meat in as closely as possible, making +the layer five or six inches in thickness, then put on another layer +of salt, following that with another layer of meat. Repeat until the +meat and salt have all been packed in the barrel, care being taken to +reserve salt enough for a good layer on the top. Cover the meat with a +board and weight down with a stone and _not_ an _iron_ weight. Do not +allow any meat to project from the salt or mold will start and the +brine will spoil in a short time. Let the meat stand over-night. + +Prepare a brine by boiling 7 pounds salt, 3 pounds brown sugar or 6 +pounds molasses, 2 ounces baking soda, 2 ounces salt peter and 4 +gallons water for every 100 pounds of meat. This quantity of brine +should be sufficient to cover that amount. + +Remove any scum that rises to the surface and filter the hot brine +through muslin. Set the brine aside, best over-night, to become +perfectly cold before using. In the morning tip the container in which +the meat is packed so that all liquor which has separated from the +meat over night may drain off. Cover the meat with the cold brine. Put +the container in a cool place. The curing will be more satisfactory if +the meat is left at a temperature of about 38 degrees F. Never let the +temperature go above 50 degrees F. and there is some risk with even a +temperature of 40 degrees F. if it is continuous. The sugar or +molasses in the brine has a tendency to ferment in a warm place. + +After about five days the meat should be overhauled and repacked, +putting the pieces which were previously on the bottom on top. Pour +back the same brine, and five days later repeat the overhauling. This +may seem like some trouble and possibly look like a useless waste of +time but it is well worth while as it insures a more rapid and uniform +curing of the meat. + +When unpacking the meat watch the brine to see that it is not ropy or +moldy. If you find either condition existing remove the meat and rinse +each piece with cold water and after scalding the container pack the +meat as at first with a little salt. Scald and skim the brine and +after it is cold pour it on the meat as before. You can use corned +beef if necessary after a week in the cure, but it is not thoroughly +cured until it has been from 20 to 30 days in the brine. If kept for +sixty days it will be salty enough to need freshening before cooking. + +If the meat has been corned during the winter, and is to be kept until +summer, watch the brine closely during the spring as it is more likely +to spoil then than at any other time. + + +PLAIN SALT PORK + +Rub each piece of meat with dairy salt, and pack closely in a +container. Let stand over-night. The next day weigh out ten pounds of +salt and two ounces of salt peter for each 100 pounds of meat, and +dissolve in four gallons of boiling water. Pour this brine, when cold, +over the meat, cover, and weight the meat down to keep it under the +brine. The pork should be kept in the brine until used. + + +SMOKING CURED MEATS + +Of course many farmers never attempt to smoke their cured meats but +use them directly from the brine but if possible it is more +satisfactory to smoke them before using for several reasons. First, +the process of smoking helps to preserve the meat. The creosote formed +by the combustion of the wood closes the pores of the meat to a great +extent thus excluding the air and helping it to keep and at the same +time makes the meat objectionable to insects. In the second place, +pickled or cured meats taste better and are more palatable if smoked. +Of course the smoking must be properly done and the right kind of fuel +must be used. + +The Smokehouse and the Smoke. It is not necessary to have a regular +smokehouse--although it is a delightful addition to any farm. Here +again a community meat ring is of great advantage. One smokehouse will +answer for many families. This is the ideal arrangement and it can +easily be managed if you are progressive and anxious enough to supply +your family with delicious meat the year around saving time and money. + +If, however, you have to do your own smoking and smoke only a small +quantity at a time a barrel or box will answer. Overheating of the +meat must be guarded against. + +Green hickory or any of the hardwoods or maple should be used for the +smoking. Pine or any other resinous woods should not be used as they +give a disagreeable flavor to the meat. If it is impossible to get +hardwood use corncobs rather than soft wood. The corncobs will leave a +dirty deposit on the meat, which is carbon. It is not objectionable +only from the standpoint of "looks." The meat which you are going to +smoke should be removed from the brine the day before the smoking. A +half hour soaking in cold water prevents a crust of salt from forming +on the outside. Do not hang the meat so that any two pieces touch as +this would prevent uniform smoking. + +Always start with a slow fire so as to warm the meat up gradually. +Thirty-six to forty-eight hours of heat as near 120 degrees F. as +possible will be sufficient under most circumstances. + +How to Store Smoked Meats. A dry, cool cellar or attic where there +is good circulation is a good place for storage. If the meat is to be +used soon the meat can hang without coverings but for long keeping you +will have to wrap it when cold in waxed paper and then in burlap, +muslin or canvas bags and then hang it, after it is tied very tightly +to prevent insects from getting in, in a room with a cool uniform +temperature. + +Some farmers get satisfactory results by wrapping the meats in strong +bags and then burying them in oat bins. + + +SAUSAGE + +Frequently when animals are butchered on the farm there are often +wholesome portions of the carcass that are not used. All trimmings, +cheeks, liver, tongue, breast and other pieces can be made into +bologna, headcheese or some other form of sausage. Sausage making is +an art worth acquiring. There is always a good demand for fresh and +smoked country sausage, so if you wish to sell some you will have no +trouble in finding a market for your product if it is a good one. + +To make sausage you should have a meat grinder, which is an absolute +essential on every farm. If you do not have one already then buy a No. +22 or No. 32. + +In addition to the grinder you will need a stuffer attachment which +costs very little. A knife, cord, string, a clean tube and casings or +muslin bags will complete your equipment. The muslin bags can be of +any size but the easiest to handle are 12 inches long and 2 inches in +diameter. If the sausage is stuffed into these bags they must be +paraffined for home use. If you do not want to bother with casings or +bags put the sausage in stone crocks or tin pans with a layer of lard +or paraffin on top. + +The best sausage is made by using 3 parts of lean meat to one of fat. +When using the grinder, distribute the lean and fat meat as uniformly +as possible. + +You are not necessarily limited to pork sausage, for there are many +other delicious varieties you can make. They vary in the different +kinds of meat used and in the different seasonings and spices. + +Breakfast sausage has bread added to it; frankfurters are smoked pork +sausage in casings; liver sausage has pork and beef or veal and bread +in it; and blood sausage, as its name suggests, has blood (preferably +from a hog) added to it. Then there is tomato sausage which is made of +pulp from fresh tomatoes, pork sausage and crackers. Summer sausage is +made in the winter and kept for use during the summer. After being +dried and cured it will keep for months. Brain sausage is delicious. +To make it calves' brains are mixed with lean pork. Cambridge sausage +has rice added to it. + +Headcheese is usually made from the hog's head but odds and ends also +can be used not only from pork but from beef and veal. + +Scrapple usually means the head and feet of hogs but it can be made +from any hog meat. It is a good food as it uses cornmeal. It makes a +change from fried mush and most men working on a farm relish it. + +Sausage can be made from mutton mixed with pork in much the same way +as beef is used for similar purposes. A general formula would be 2 +parts of mutton to 3 parts pork with seasonings. + +With a plentiful supply of good home-cured and home-smoked meats, +together with several varieties of sausages, you can feel you are well +equipped to feed your family with its share of meat. Everything will +have been utilized, nothing will have been wasted. You produced your +own meat, you slaughtered and cured and smoked it and put all +trimmings and other "left-overs" into appetizing food for your family +and you have saved money. You have utilized things at hand and +required no transportation facilities. And best of all, you have the +very finest in the land for your family and that gives one a perfectly +justifiable pride in the work accomplished. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +PRESERVED OR "CANNED" EGGS + + +As one-half of the yearly egg crop is produced in March, April, May +and June consumers would do well to store enough at that time to use +when production is light. Fifty dozen eggs should be stored for a +family of five to use during the months of October, November, December +and January, at which time the market price of eggs is at the highest. + +When canning them _the eggs must be fresh_, preferably not more than +two or three days old. This is the reason why it is much more +satisfactory to put away eggs produced in one's own chicken yard or +one's neighbor's. + +Infertile eggs are best if they can be obtained--so, after the +hatching exclude the roosters from the flock and kill them for table +use as needed. + +_The shells must be clean._ Washing an egg with a soiled shell lessens +its keeping quality. The protective gelatinous covering over the shell +is removed by water and when this is gone the egg spoils more rapidly. +Use the soiled eggs for immediate use and the clean ones for storage. + +_The shells also must be free from even the tiniest crack._ One +cracked egg will spoil a large number of sound eggs when packed in +water glass. + +Earthenware crocks are good containers. _The crocks must be clean and +sound._ Scald them and let them cool completely before use. A crock +holding six gallons will accommodate eighteen dozen eggs and about +twenty-two pints of solution. Too large crocks are not desirable, +since they increase the liability of breaking some of the eggs, and +spoiling the entire batch. + +It must be remembered that the eggs on the bottom crack first and that +those in the bottom of the crock are the last to be removed for use. +Eggs can be put up in smaller crocks and the eggs put in the crock +first should be used first in the household. + + +METHOD OF STORING + +There are many satisfactory methods of storing eggs. The commercial +method is that of cold storage and if it were not for this method +winter eggs would be beyond the average purse. + +The fact that eggs have been held in cold storage does not necessarily +mean that they are of low quality. Carefully handled cold-storage eggs +often are of better quality than fresh local eggs that have been +improperly cared for. + +In the home they may be packed by several methods: Salt, oats or bran; +covering them with vaseline, butter, lard, paraffin or prepared +ointments; immersion in brine, salicylic acid, water glass (sodium +silicate) or limewater. + +Any of these methods will keep the eggs for short periods if stored in +a cool place. The salt, oats and bran are very satisfactory. The +ointments also are satisfactory. The water glass and limewater will +keep eggs without loss for a year. However, it is not wise to put down +more eggs than is necessary to tide over the period of high price. + + +WATER GLASS METHOD + +"Water glass" is known to the chemist as sodium silicate. It can be +purchased by the quart from druggists or poultry supply men. It is a +pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It is diluted in the proportion +of one part of silicate to nine parts of distilled water, rain water, +or other water. _In any case, the water should be boiled and then +allowed to cool._ Half fill the vessel with this solution and place +the eggs in it, being careful not to crack them. The eggs can be added +a few at a time until the container is filled. Be sure to keep about +two inches of water glass above the eggs. Cover the crock to prevent +evaporation and place it in the coolest place available from which the +crock will not have to be moved. Wax paper covered over and tied +around the top of the crock can be used. Inspect the crock from time +to time and replace any water that has evaporated with cool boiled +water. + + +LIMEWATER METHOD + +Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is slightly +less expensive than water glass. A solution is made by placing two or +three pounds of unslaked lime in five gallons of water, which has been +boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the mixture to stand until +the lime settles and the liquid is clear. The eggs should be placed in +a clean earthenware jar or other suitable vessel and covered to a +depth of two inches with the liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse +in clean, cold water and use immediately. + +If using the limewater method add a little of the lime sediment to +insure a constantly saturated solution. If a thin white crust appears +on the limewater solution it is due to the formation of calcium +carbonate coming in contact with the air and consequently does no +harm. + + +CANDLING EGGS AT HOME + +If you purchase the eggs that are to be stored it is safer to candle +them. Examining eggs to determine their quality is called "candling." +Every one knows that some eggs are better than others, but the ease +with which the good ones can be picked out is not generally +understood. The better the quality of eggs, the surer the housewife +can be that they will keep satisfactorily. + + +HOMEMADE CANDLER + +The equipment for candling usually consists of either a wooden, a +metal, or a cardboard box and a kerosene lamp or an electric light. A +very inexpensive egg candler for home use can be made from a large +shoe-box or similar cardboard box. Remove the ends of the box, and cut +a hole about the size of a half-dollar in one side. Slip the box over +the lamp or electric bulb, darken the room, hold the egg, with the +large end up, before the opening in the box and its quality can easily +be judged. + + +SIGNS OF A GOOD EGG + +When held before the opening of the candle, good eggs will look clear +and firm. The air cell (the white spot at the large end of the eggs) +should be small, not larger than a dime, and the yolk may be dimly +seen in the center of the egg. A large air cell and a dark, freely +moving yolk indicate that the egg is stale. + +If the shell contents appear black or very dark, the egg is +absolutely unfit for food. If you are in doubt about the quality of +any eggs you are candling break a few of them into a dish and examine +them. This is an excellent way to learn to know how good and bad eggs +look when they are being candled. + +Discard all eggs that have shrunken, loose contents, a watery +appearance, cracked and thin shells. Eggs of this description will not +keep and are apt to spoil the eggs close around them. Any egg that +floats in the solution should be discarded. + +When packing eggs whether in salt, oats, or in solution place them +with small end down. When packing them in salt, oats, etc., do not +allow any two eggs to touch. + + +PACKING THE EGGS + +One gallon of water glass as purchased will make enough preservative +to preserve from 75 to 100 dozen eggs. + +Three gallons of either water glass solution or limewater solution +will preserve from 200 to 240 dozen eggs according to the size of the +eggs and the shape of the container. + +The cost of preserving eggs by the water glass method is about one +cent per dozen eggs, not considering the cost of the container. The +lime water method is still cheaper. + +The following gives the sizes of jars with approximate capacity for +eggs and the amount of water glass solution required to cover the +eggs: + +1 gallon jar--40 eggs, 31/2 pints of solution or 13/4 qt. + +2 gallon jar--80 eggs, 8 pints of solution or 2 quarts. + +3 gallon jar--120 eggs, 11 pints of solution or 51/2 quarts. + +4 gallon jar--160 eggs, 141/2 pints of solution or 71/4 quarts. + +5 gallon jar--200 eggs, 18 pints of solution or 9 quarts. + +6 gallon jar--216 eggs, 22 pints of solution or 11 quarts. + +10 gallon jar--400 eggs, 36 pints of solution or 18 quarts. + + +HOW TO USE PRESERVED EGGS + +When the eggs are to be used, remove them as desired, rinse in clean, +cold water, and use immediately. + +Eggs preserved in water glass can be used for soft boiling or poaching +up to November. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole in the +large end of the shell with a needle to keep them from cracking, as +the preservative seals the pores of the shell and prevents the escape +of gases, which is possible in the strictly fresh egg. + +They are satisfactory for frying until about December. From that time +until the end of the usual storage period--that is until March--they +can be used for omelettes, scrambled eggs, custards, cakes and general +cookery. As the eggs age, the white becomes thinner and is harder to +beat. The yolk membrane becomes more delicate and it is +correspondingly difficult to separate the whites from the yolks. +Sometimes the white of the egg is tinged pink after very long keeping +in water glass. This is due, probably, to a little iron which is in +the sodium silicate, but which apparently does not injure the eggs for +food purposes. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +HOME STORAGE OF VEGETABLES + + +Towards the end of the canning season most housewives have used every +available glass jar and tin can and hesitate about purchasing a new +supply. They have dried and brined many products and yet they feel, +and rightly so, that they would like still more vegetables for winter +use. There still remains another method that they may employ to +provide themselves with a plentiful supply of vegetables and these +vegetables can be in the fresh state too. Neither canned, dried, +pickled or salted but fresh. + +Canning, drying, pickling and salting are essential and necessary but +they can not take the place of storage. To keep vegetables in their +natural state is the easiest and simplest form of food preservation. +Of course, you must take proper precautions against freezing and +decay. If you do this you can have an abundant supply of many kinds of +fresh vegetables all winter, where climatic and living conditions will +permit. Storage costs but little money and little effort and yet it is +very satisfactory. + +There are many vegetables that can be stored to good advantage. They +are: Beets, Brussels Sprouts, Beans, Celery, Carrots, Chicory or +Endive, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohl-rabi, Lima Beans, Onions, Sweet +Potatoes, Squash (Winter), Salsify or Vegetable Oyster, Tomatoes, +Turnips. + +To get good results in any kind of storage, you must observe four +things: + + 1. Proper ventilation. + 2. Proper regulation of temperature. + 3. Sufficient moisture. + 4. Good condition of vegetables when stored. + +There are six different ways to store vegetables. They are: cellar +storage, pit storage, outdoor cellar or cave storage, attic storage, +sand boxes and pantry storage. + + +CELLAR STORAGE + +We will first of all consider cellar or basement storage. One of the +most convenient places for the storage of vegetables is a cool, +well-ventilated and reasonably dry cellar underneath the house. This +cellar must have windows or some method of ventilation, must not be +too warm and not so cold that food will freeze. If there is proper +ventilation there can be some dampness without injury to the +vegetables. If your cellar or basement floods easily or has water +standing in it anywhere it should not be used for vegetable storage. + +If there is a furnace in the cellar or basement a small room as far as +possible from the heating plant should be partitioned off. Do not +build a room in the middle of the cellar, for two sides of the room +should consist of outside walls. + +If possible have two outside windows for proper regulation of the +temperature and for good ventilation. If you cannot have two windows +have one. + +A very good arrangement for constant circulation of air consists in +having a stove-pipe inserted through one of the lower panes of the +window to admit cold air. One of the upper panes of the window can be +removed to allow for the escape of warm air. That is, of course, if +the window is made of nine or twelve small panes of squares of glass. +In severely cold weather this upper pane can be replaced or the +opening stuffed up in some way. + +If you do not have an old stove-pipe you can make a wooden flue of old +boards or old discarded boxes. + +Most cellars and basements are now made with concrete floors. The +ideal floor for storage purposes is an earth floor. However, we can +put two or three inches of sand on our concrete floors and get good +results. Sprinkle the sand with water from time to time. + +Put the vegetables that are to be stored in boxes, baskets, barrels or +crates. Use containers that hold only two or three bushels apiece. If +larger boxes or barrels are used there is always danger of heating and +decay. Of course, proper precautions should be taken against mice. + +An excellent way to prevent wilting of crops and shrinkage is to put +moist leaves, oak or maple, in the containers with the vegetables. +Moist sand is sometimes used but it is much heavier to handle than the +leaves. It is no difficult matter to rake the lawn when you are ready +to store the vegetables. + +The vegetables that are adapted for cellar storage are beets, cabbage, +carrots, celery, parsnips, potatoes, salsify and turnips. + + +PIT STORAGE + +There are two kinds of pits that may be used for storage. Those that +are not frost-proof and those which are frost-proof. + +Some vegetables are not injured by being held in a frozen condition +during the winter months. Cabbage is not injured by moderate frost. +Cabbage and parsnips will stand freezing and a little thawing, so they +can be put in pits or better still, boxes or barrels set into the +ground may be used. Make the pit mound shaped. If the earth is mounded +around the box, barrel or pit, surface water cannot run in. + +If using this kind of storage do not store the products until both the +ground and the products are frozen solid. The idea is to keep the +vegetables frozen or to have very few freezings and thawings, and +those few should be gradual. + +After the pit has been made or the box or barrel has been set into the +ground and filled with vegetables, it should be covered first with a +piece of burlap or carpet, then with a mouse-proof board cover and +finally with straw or similar material. When taken from the pit, the +vegetables can be thawed out over night in cold water, after which +they can be kept in the cellar for a short length of time. + +The pits for keeping vegetables free from frost must be carefully and +thoughtfully made, but they are cheap and are very useful and +practical when caves or cellars are not convenient. + +The frost-proof pit for storing vegetables should always be placed in +as well-drained a place as possible. A shallow excavation should be +made from one to two feet deep, four feet wide and as long as +desired. Line the pit with straw, hay or leaves, then place the +vegetables in a conical pile on the straw. Cover the vegetables with +six inches of the material used in making the lining. This is covered +with three or four inches of earth. The straw is allowed to extend up +through the earth at the top of the pile, thus assuring ventilation. + +When it becomes colder add more covering to the pit by another layer +of straw and a layer of earth. In very cold climates a layer of manure +or corn stalks will afford protection against frost. + +It is well to make several small pits rather than one larger one for +the reason that when a pit has once been opened it is difficult to +protect the remaining vegetables from frost. + +It is advisable to store several varieties of vegetables in one pit so +that when each pit is opened you have a variety of vegetables. If you +follow this plan separate the various crops by using straw or leaves. + +Pits are entered by chopping a hole through the frozen earth at one +end, large enough to reach into or crawl into. After the vegetables +have been obtained keep the hole stuffed and covered most carefully +and deeply with old sacks and straw. + +If the smaller pits are used, a decidedly better arrangement, take out +all the vegetables in the pit and those that are not needed for +immediate consumption can be placed in the cellar storage room, or +other cool place, until needed. Do not use those pits if you live +where winter rains are abundant as the pits will become water soaked +and the vegetables will suffer more or less decay. + + +OUTDOOR CELLAR STORAGE + +Outdoor cellars or caves may be cheaply built for more or less +temporary use or they may be very expensively built of concrete, +brick, or clay blocks. Of course, the latter are permanent storing +places and offer perfect storage for potatoes, carrots, cabbages, +parsnips, beets, turnips and salsify. + +The objectionable features of indoor cellar storage is that such +storage does not furnish ideal conditions for keeping the vegetables +fresh for any great length of time. + +The objectionable feature to the pit storage is the inaccessibility to +these pits during severe weather. + +The outdoor cellar or cave overcomes both these objections. The +outdoor cellar or cave is an underground structure, preferably built +in a hillside and fully covered with earth except at one end only +where the entrance is located. If there are doors at both ends it is +almost impossible to prevent freezing in very cold weather. The cave +door should fit perfectly and there should be a hatchway or door over +the steps leading down to the cave door. + +A very satisfactory inexpensive cellar can be made by digging an +excavation about 5 ft. deep and in this erecting a frame by setting +posts in rows near the dirt walls. Saw these posts off at uniform +height and place plates on their tops. On these plates place rafters. +Board up completely with the exception of the entrance. Cover the +whole with dirt or sod and in cold climates add a layer of straw or +fodder. + +A ventilation must be provided in the roof at the back end. A sewer +tile with the bell end up makes a very good flue. A dirt floor is +satisfactory as it contains moisture. If there is any seepage use a +drain tile to carry it off. + +The more pretentious permanent cellars are provided with air spaces to +furnish insulation; are provided with large ventilation shafts through +the roof and cold air intakes under the floor. Thorough drainage is +obtained by placing a line of tile around the outside wall and also by +having the air intake serve as a drain for surplus water that might +get into the cave. The floor is cement or concrete. Such a cave is +expensive but is a permanent structure and a good addition to any farm +or estate. If properly made it is possible to maintain a temperature +of 34 to 38 degrees without much fluctuation during the winter months. +This kind of storage is not only adapted for vegetables but apples as +well. It is better adapted to the Northern, Eastern and Western States +than to the Southern States, where it is likely to be warm at the time +the vegetables are ready for storage. When making the cave, have it as +near as possible to the kitchen door. Sometimes caves are made so that +they can be entered from the house, cellar or porch. + + +ATTIC STORAGE + +Some vegetables such as onions, squashes, sweet potatoes and pumpkins +can be stored in the attic in crates which allow free circulation of +air. They must be absolutely free from bruises and must be well +ripened and cured. To cure the vegetables expose them to the air for a +few days in the shade. Remove the tops of onions before storing. The +attic is much better for storing onions than the basement. Squashes +are susceptible to cold and moisture, so are suitable for the attic. + +Be very careful in handling the squashes to prevent breaking the +stems off. Watch pumpkins and squash carefully and at the first sign +of decay, use immediately or can. + + +SAND BOX STORAGE + +Sand boxes in cellars, pits or caves are desirable for beets, turnips, +kohl-rabi, carrots, winter radishes and rutabagas. The sand keeps them +cold and prevents evaporation. Kohl-rabi should be tender when stored. + + +PANTRY STORAGE + +Where there is no attic or where it is inconveniently reached, the +products that are adapted to a very dry place can be stored on the +pantry shelves or in a dry cellar near the furnace. They are onions, +squashes, pumpkins and sweet potatoes. + +The keeping qualities of all these vegetables, no matter what storage +is used, depends chiefly upon their condition when placed in storage. +All products to be stored must be mature, but not overgrown. Root +crops should be dry while the ground is in good working condition. All +vegetables should be allowed to become surface dry before placing them +in storage. + +White or Irish potatoes, especially, should not be exposed to bright +sunlight any length of time. Only vegetables free from disease or +injury should be stored. Any that are damaged can be used immediately, +or can be canned or dried. + +Further particulars for the storing of fresh vegetables are given in +the following tables. + +TABLE FOR VEGETABLE STORAGE + +VEGETABLES + |HOW BEST STORED + | |PREPARATION FOR STORAGE + | | |AMOUNT FOR FAMILY OF TWO + | | | |REMARKS + | | | | +Irish Potatoes + |Must be kept cool with a slight degrees of moisture. Use + |either cellar or cave methods. No potato should be more than + |four ft. from air if stored in barrels, boxes, crates or + |bins. + | |Potatoes must be dug before the ground is crusted with + | |frost. Frosted potatoes will spoil, one after another. + | |Impossible to sort out frosted potatoes. + | | |10 to 15 bus. + | | | |Remember Irish potatoes are ruined by + | | | |freezing. Potatoes should be kept absolutely + | | | |dark to prevent greening by light. Never buy + | | | |potatoes in sacks that show wet places due to + | | | |a frosted potato. + | | | | +Sweet Potatoes + |Require warmth and dryness. In crates or on shelves in warm + |dry room. Can be spread on the floor in the room above the + |kitchen where they will have plenty of heat, especially for + |the first 2 or 3 weeks after they are dug. + | |When the sweet potatoes are dug they should be allowed + | |to lie in the sun and wind for 3 or 4 hours so as to + | |become perfectly dry. They must be well ripened and free + | |from bruises. Can be kept on shelves in a very dry place + | |and they need not be kept specially cold. Sweet potatoes + | |keep best when they are showing just a little + | |inclination to sprout. However, if they start growing + | |the quality is greatly injured. + | | |2 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you are in doubt as to whether the sweet + | | | |potatoes are matured enough for storage, cut + | | | |or break one end and expose it to the air for + | | | |a few minutes. If the surface of the cut or + | | | |break dries, the potato is mature. But if + | | | |moisture remains on the surface, it is not + | | | |fully ripened. In places where there are early + | | | |frosts, sweet potatoes should be dug about the + | | | |time the first frost is expected, without + | | | |considering maturity. + | | | | +Carrots + |Are best stored in sand in cellars, caves or pits; or in + |tightly covered boxes or crocks. Must be kept cold and + |evaporation must be prevented, for otherwise they become + |wilted. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool; then be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |If you store carrots in the cellar and it is + | | | |extremely dry cover them with a little + | | | |moistened sand. + | | | | +Celery + |May be rooted in earth in a cellar or cave and if watered + |occasionally will keep fresh until Christmas. The soil, earth + |or sand, in which the celery is set should be 2 or 3 inches + |deep. This soil must not be allowed to become dry. + | |Can remain in the ground until the weather is quite + | |cool. + | | |5 dozen good plants or bunches. + | | | |Another way to store celery is to bank it to + | | | |the top with earth; cover the tops with + | | | |boards, straw, or leaves and allow it to + | | | |remain where it has grown until wanted for + | | | |use. Another way is to dig a trench 12 inches + | | | |wide and deep enough to correspond with the + | | | |height of the celery, then lift the celery and + | | | |pack it in this trench with some soil about + | | | |the roots. When the weather becomes colder, + | | | |cover the trench with boards nailed together + | | | |in the form of a _V_ shaped trough and over + | | | |this inverted trough put a layer of soil. The + | | | |ends of this trough should be left open for + | | | |ventilation until freezing sets in, then close + | | | |these openings with straw, old bags or soil. + | | | |If the freeze ceases and there is a spell of + | | | |warmer weather open the ends slightly for + | | | |ventilation. When the celery is first stored + | | | |in the trenches the soil about the roots of + | | | |the celery should be watered and and if the + | | | |weather is dry after the celery is put in the + | | | |trenches, pour some water around the roots to + | | | |keep the celery crisp and fresh. + | | | | +Cabbage + |Can be wrapped in paper with the outer leaves left on for + |immediate use and stored in ventilated barrels or large + |crates in the cellar. But as few cellars are cool enough to + |keep cabbage in good condition it is more advisable to store + |it in a long shallow pit in the garden. + | |Is not injured by moderate frost while in the pit but + | |should not be disturbed while frozen. The pit should be + | |long and narrow. Pull the cabbage, stem, root and all, + | |and then laid with heads down about 3 heads in width can + | |be placed in the pit. Cover lightly with soil and as the + | |weather becomes colder add a little more soil until + | |there is a layer 6 or 7 inches thick over the cabbage. + | |Keep the ends of the pit partially open for ventilation + | |until the weather becomes very cold. + | | |25 heads. + | | | |Late varieties of cabbage are the only ones + | | | |fit for storage. It is advisable to dig a + | | | |shallow ditch around the pit so that all + | | | |surplus water can be carried off. + | | | | +Chickory or Endive + |Store in a box or bed of moist sand in the cellar. Put roots + |in an upright position with the sand coming just to their + |tops. Water the sand occasionally. Sometimes a covering of + |straw is added to blanch the tender growth of shoots, which + |is the part used as food. + | |Late in the fall lift the roots out and carefully trim + | |off the leaves without injury to the heart. + | | |5 doz. roots. + | | | |Chickory or endive is grown the same as + | | | |carrots or salsify. It is useful in the winter + | | | |for it furnishes the needed green that is so + | | | |scarce in winter. + | | | | +Beets + |Must not be placed in too large piles in the cellar as they + |are inclined to mold. Can also be buried in pits in open + |ground. + | |Can remain in the ground until very cool weather; then + | |should be pulled, the tops cut off and then stored in + | |the cellar. + | | |1 bushel. + | | | |Beets are not so much inclined to shrivel as + | | | |carrots. + | | | | +Salsify or Vegetable Oyster + |Pack roots in box with moist sand in cellar or as they are + |not injured by remaining in the ground all winter they can be + |left there. Enough for immediate use may be dug in the autumn + |and the others dug as desired. + | |When stored in the cellar after the salsify is pulled, + | |trim off the tops and then stand them in an upright + | |position with the sand even with the tops. + | | |75 to 100 roots. + | | | |Is injured by too much freezing and thawing, + | | | |so should remain frozen. + | | | | +Parsnips + |Can be stored just as salsify or be allowed to remain in the + |ground until wanted. + | |Those that are to be stored in the cellar can remain in + | |in the garden until the weather is quite cool, then + | |prepare and store like salsify. + | | |1 bushel in the cellar and one in the garden. + | | | |Parsnips are best kept frozen or fresh in the + | | | |cellar as too much freezing and thawing + | | | |destroys them. + | | | | +Turnips + |Must be stored where temperature is low or sprouting will + |result. Moderate freezing does no harm while in the storage + |pit but they must not be disturbed while frozen. + | |Pull; cut tops off and store in sand in cellars or + | |caves, or in pits, or in tightly covered boxes or + | |crocks. + | | |1 to 3 bus. + | | | |The object is to keep them cold and prevent + | | | |evaporation. It is a good plan to store a + | | | |portion in the cellar so as to be available + | | | |during the time that those buried in the pit + | | | |are "frozen in" and not so easily accessible. + | | | | +Onions + |Require a cool dry place. Attic excellent. + | |Before storing, cure them by exposing to the air for a + | |few days in the shade. Dryness is absolutely essential. + | |A well cured onion should be firm and not readily dented + | |at the base of the tops by the tip of the thumb when + | |held in the hand. + | | |3 bushels. + | | | |Onions are best for storage if topped about 11/2 + | | | |inches long. + | | | | +Cauliflower + |Planted in shallow boxes of soil in light place in the + |cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |Store as many as possible. + | | | |If kept well watered they will mature for + | | | |winter use. + | | | | +Brussels Sprouts + |Planted in soil in cellar. + | |Must not be too mature. + | | |According to family tastes. + | | | |Keep watered and will mature. + | | | | +Ground Cherries or Husk Tomatoes + |May be stored for some weeks in the husk in their layers in a + |dry place free from frost. + | +Kohl-rabi, Winter Radishes, Rutabagas + |Best stored in sand in cellars, cares or pits. + | |Must be kept cold to prevent evaporation. + | | |According to the family tastes. + | | | |Kohl-rabi must be tender when stored. + | | | | +Horse-radish + |May be kept in the ground where grown all winter. Must be + |kept frozen as thawing injures it. + | +Pumpkins + |Best kept on shelves in a very dry place. Can be kept on + |shelves in furnace room. + | |Must be ripened and cured and free from bruises. + | | |5 ordinary sized pumpkins. + | | | |Need not be kept especially cold. + | | | | +Squashes + |Susceptible to cold and moisture, so store in a dry place + |where temperature will be between 50 and 60 degrees. + | |Care must be taken that stem is not broken. + | | |10 ordinary sized hubbard squashes. + | | | |Whenever squashes or pumpkins in storage show + | | | |signs of decay, the sound portion should be + | | | |immediately canned. + | | | | +Tomatoes + |Cool cellar or cave; can be wrapped in any absorbent paper + |preferably without printing upon it, and laid upon shelves to + |ripen. The paper absorbs the moisture given off by the + |tomatoes and causes them to ripen uniformly. If cellar is dry + |or well ventilated, tomatoes can be kept a month or six weeks + |in this manner. + | |May be kept until Christmas if vines with the green + | |tomatoes hanging on them are pulled and hung in the + | |cellar. Pull the vines before they are frosted. + | | |All that you can put away. + | | | |Most of the tomatoes that are put into storage + | | | |will ripen and be most acceptable as soon as + | | | |they color up. If these tomatoes, when cooked, + | | | |are found to be very acid, the acidity may be + | | | |overcome by using baking soda. + | | | | +Parsley + |Transplant into flower pots late in the fall. + | |Keep in windows where they will receive plenty of + | |sunshine. + | | +Garlic + |Should be thoroughly cured as are onions. + | |Or it may be braided by the tops into strings which are + | |hung up in dry places for curing and storing. + | | +Head Lettuce + |Rooted in earth in a cellar or cave. + | |Water occasionally. + | | |All you have in the garden. + | | | +Dry beans and peas + |Stored where protected from weevils. + | |Should be fully ripened before shelling. Pick pods by + | |hand as they ripen and spread pods to become thoroughly + | |dry. May be shelled by spreading pods on a sheet and + | |beating them with a stick. Can be cleaned by pouring + | |them from a height of 4 or 5 ft. upon a sheet and + | |allowing the wind to blow the particles of pod out of + | |them as they fall. + | | |As many as you can gather. + | | | +Apples + |Must be kept in a dry, cool place and so stored as to be in + |no danger of absorbing odors from vegetables stored nearby. + |Apples absorb odors from potatoes, onions, turnips and other + |strong vegetables. + | |Sort apples carefully removing and using at once all + | |fruit that is bruised and shows signs of decay. The best + | |results are obtained by wrapping each apple in half a + | |sheet of newspaper and storing in barrels, boxes, crates + | |or bins. The wrapping prevents apples from touching and + | |thus prevents decay. It also protects apples from odors + | |of vegetables stored nearby. + | | |As many barrels of apples as possible. Remember + | | |that "An apple a day will keep the doctor away." + | | | |The cellar or other storage place must be kept + | | | |cool. 32 deg. F. is ideal. Never allow temperature + | | | |to go above 40 deg. F. They can be stored + | | | |unwrapped in barrels, boxes, crates, bins, + | | | |etc., if proper attention is paid to sorting, + | | | |to providing a cool place for storage, to + | | | |occasional sorting during the winter and for + | | | |the immediate removal of all decayed fruit. + | | | |Even if you do not raise apples, but have a + | | | |good storage place, meeting the requirements + | | | |as regards temperature, you will find it + | | | |advantageous to buy a winter's supply in the + | | | |autumn, when prices are low. + + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +HOW TO MARKET HOME CANNED PRODUCE + + +You have some delicious jellies, jams, canned fruits and vegetables +that you wish to sell and you do not know just how to go about it. +There are at your disposal several means of selling: + +1. Through advertising. + +2. Through personal letters to desirable shops, delicatessens, +boarding-houses, colleges, etc. + +3. By direct salesmanship; that is, by making personal visits to the +buyers, either homes or stores. + +4. Through jobbers to whom you pay a commission on all sales. + +5. Through cooeperative selling. + +Perhaps the cheapest and easiest way for you to handle your problem is +to employ the method so much used to-day and that is wayside +advertising. Wayside advertising costs practically nothing and yet it +pays. + +Autos are everywhere these days. You cannot take a country ride +without seeing many signboards at the farm entrances advertising +chickens, fresh eggs, vegetables, honey, apples and canned goods. I +have a friend who drives 50 miles every fall for her honey. She first +found it by seeing the sign in front of the farm and now she returns +year after year because she thinks no other honey is just like it. She +would never have discovered it if that farm woman had not been clever +enough to think of advertising her goods in this cheap way. My friend +told all her other "auto" friends, so the country woman has a splendid +outlet for her product now. If you live on a good road that is +patronized at all by autoists you ought to get your signboard up at +once. + +We often pass a farm where the sign "Fresh Home-Made Candy" always +tempts us to stop and buy. What autoist could resist that sign? And +here miles from town this clever woman is carrying on a profitable +side trade, which is netting her a nice little yearly income. Her +candy is good; we go often and so do many others. She has turned her +profession into a paying proposition. She could send her candy away by +parcel post or by some other means, but she would not be so far ahead +as she is now. + +In addition to your wayside advertising you could advertise in papers, +magazines, etc. Many producers believe strongly in advertising in +daily and weekly papers. You can quickly find out whether this kind of +advertising pays. Give it a trial at least. After you have spent ten +or fifteen dollars in advertising you ought to know whether it pays. + +Use one or two of the city papers near you, taking the publisher's +advice as to the best day of the week on which to run the +advertisement, the size and the position of the "ad." The first cost +of getting your customers may seem high, but with good products you +could soon build up a list of people to whom sales can be made year +after year. + +This form of advertising has many advantages. If your advertising copy +is clever and you have some novelty to offer, you ought to receive +many orders. If orders come, you get the full retail price, the +shipping charges are paid by the customer, and cash comes with every +order. And it means, if your customers are pleased, that you have +permanent customers. The initial cost is great and there is a risk, +but remember "it pays to advertise." + +There are millions of city women who never can a jar of fruit or put +up a single glass of preserves or jelly who will be glad to have you +send your goods direct to them by parcel post. But you must get in +touch with these women either through wayside advertising, magazine +and paper advertising or by direct salesmanship, although very few +women have the time for personal calls. + +Considerable business can be done by letter writing to stores, +restaurants and boarding-houses in distant cities. It may be +impossible for you to go personally, in which case letters often bring +the desired results. Make your letters business-like and typewrite +them. Do not be discouraged if you do not get many replies at first as +there are at least fifty per cent who pay no attention to such +letters. But this form of advertising usually pays. + +Another method followed by many home canners is that of marketing +direct to the retail grocers, care being taken, of course, to protect +these grocers by not selling to more than one member in a community. +One of the great advantages, of this direct salesmanship is that +little selling effort is required on your part after the first +arrangements have been made. The nearby market plan is greatly to be +recommended because you can keep in touch with your selling concern, +build up a line of desirable goods and promote its sale by +advertising. + +Of course you can get more money for your goods if you have time and +the opportunity to sell _direct to_ the consumers. You will of +necessity have to sell cheaper to the grocers because they too must +make their profit. Marketing direct to the consumer has a special +appeal to many people. Where time is available and the community +accustomed to purchasing in this manner, this method offers great +possibilities. The profits are of course higher but the results more +uncertain, for it is somewhat difficult to gauge the demands of the +public, and the canner must assume the risk ordinarily taken by the +merchant. + +It takes time and patience to develop a list of customers but if you +have time in the winter to do this you will find it will pay you well. +If you can get customers who are willing to pay good prices for +quality, scrupulous cleanliness and the homemade flavor, you will get +a larger gross return than if you sold through merchants, but if your +time is valuable it would scarcely pay you to take individual orders +and deliver goods. + +There is still another way and that is to market your home-canned +products in large lots to jobbers, but if this plan is to be pursued +successfully there must be a reasonably large pack and wholesale +rates. This method produces more uniform profits year by year, for +after a reputation is established the home-canner would not experience +great difficulty in thus disposing of her entire output by contract, +providing the quality was high and the price demands not excessive. + +But the greatest and best way of all to find a profitable market for +your things is to cooeperate with other canners in your own +neighborhood and find a market for quantity as well as quality. +Delicatessens, club houses, tea shops, college dormitories, +restaurants and hotels, all pay good prices for fine quality. No big +buyer will bother to purchase one or two dozen of this or that. He +wants dozens of things. One of the very best profitable ways to sell +with little trouble is through quantities. Get all the women in your +community to bring together cans of fruit and preserves, etc., to some +marketing place. Find out how many jars of currant jelly you have, how +many cans of peas and corn, how many of cherries, etc., and then +notify your buyer or prospective buyer. + +Cooeperative selling has been undertaken and found profitable. In some +cases, especially in localities frequented by the summer boarder or +the automobile tourist, sales are made direct to customers who come to +the salesrooms of the organizations or to their special sales; in +other cases goods are sent by parcel post and other means. The women +in the community can hire or beg a room where all the women of the +community can sell their products for individual profit. This room +should be located on the direct automobile road in order to attract +tourists and automobile parties. An annual membership fee of from 50 +cents to $1 generally is required for these organizations, and a +charge of from 10 to 15 per cent of the selling price usually is made +to cover the cost of selling. In a few instances the managing board +has been able to secure an efficient person to take charge of the +enterprise for a specified percentage on the sales. + +Wholesale grocery concerns are interested in big things--orders can +be placed with them. Soda fountains in towns and cities are excellent +customers for the freshest eggs they can get. They are encroaching +more and more on the trade of the restaurants and lunch rooms. Many +serve light luncheons and would be interested in good butter, +preserves and jams. When you get a list of names and addresses write +to several dozen places, tell what your organization has in the way of +guaranteed eggs, homemade products and what kind of service you could +offer in the way of regular shipments. When orders come it is an easy +matter to look up at your local bank the responsibility of any +customer, so there is little risk. Or cash can be insisted upon with +every order, although large concerns prefer to pay after receipt of +goods and bill. + +Each woman in this cooeperative organization must keep her goods up to +a certain standard, for an inferior lot of goods sent to a large firm +might ruin a reputation. + +Three things govern the sale of canned products--appearances, quality +and price. So many things enter into consideration of prices +obtainable that it is difficult to set a standard which will be +applicable to different sections. The quality of the pack, its +neatness, the method of marketing and many other matters must be +considered in deciding this all-important point. As a general +proposition, however, if the products are uniformly high grade, prices +may be obtained which are somewhat in excess of factory-made products +marketed in the same manner. + +Like any other new industry, the selling should be developed slowly in +order to minimize the possibility of loss and to assure stable +business. One should study the situation carefully both from the +manufacturing and marketing standpoints. Plan the season's campaign +before taking up the work, and do not let the enthusiasm of the +beginner interfere with good business judgment. + +The selling when rightly managed can be made a successful business or +it can be turned into a liability through careless, unbusinesslike +methods and insufficient or unwise planning. Properly handled it will +pay well for the investment of time and money, and offer opportunity +for the disposal of surplus home-canned, home-grown, homemade and +home-prepared products of all kinds. + + +LIVING UP TO CONTRACTS + +Care must be taken not to contract for more than can be delivered. +This would be bad business, and business principles must govern in +selling home products just as in other enterprises if one is to be +increasingly successful from year to year. + +Occasionally a quantity of fruit which will not meet the rigid +requirements of the canning business can be turned into preserves, +jellies or fruit juices. Preserves and jellies should be marketed in +glass, and fruit juices in bottles, although some manufacturers are +now marketing some of these products in fiber cups. This line of +products will require some additional equipment, but there is a steady +demand for such homemade things and many women are deriving profits +through the sale of their tastily prepared jellies, just as pickles +and condiments have lined the pocketbooks of ambitious housewives +before now. + +Home canning for the market is essentially a matter of specializing +and of giving the consumer a better product than he is accustomed to +purchase. Too much emphasis cannot be placed upon the maintenance of a +high standard for home-canned goods. Care should be taken that every +jar measures up to a rigid standard, for a single one which falls +below grade will neutralize the reputation and standing obtained by +the sale of a dozen jars of perfect product. A quality is necessary +which will warrant a money-back guarantee on every jar. + + +THE USE OF LABELS IN CANNING + +Labels for both tin cans and glass jars should tell the truth as to +the quality, weight and kind of product within the pack. Before +adopting a trade-mark and label, consult the Bureau of Chemistry, U.S. +Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C., as to label requirements +for canned goods prepared for the market. + +It pays to show samples of all your canned goods at county and state +fairs. You may win many premiums. Goods which are canned with +preservatives should be debarred from all exhibits. + + +PACKING GLASS FOR SHIPPING + +Wrap each glass or jar separately in rumpled newspapers or excelsior +and pack in barrels or boxes. Line these containers with papers or +excelsior. + +Strong corrugated parcel post boxes can be obtained for this purpose. +Wrap each jar with excelsior or paper before putting it in its proper +section. If sending large amounts send all boxes or all barrels, do +not mix them,--sending half barrels and half boxes--as large concerns +like uniform packages. + + +PACKING TIN FOR SHIPPING + +Two dozen cans is the regulation shipping case. Have the shipping +boxes of uniform size. Put the two dozen cans in the box and nail on +the top. Be exceedingly careful not to drive nails into the cans. On +both ends of the box paste labels such as are on the cans, telling +what the contents of the box are. + +Address the box carefully using marking ink or a regulation tag. If a +tag, tack with small tacks on the top of the box. Write your own name +and address on the tag _distinctly_ as the sender. Be as careful of +the tacks as you were of the nails. Always get a receipt from your +express agent if shipping by express as this will be necessary in case +of non-receipt of goods. + +Send to the concern or individual to whom you are sending the goods a +list of the things you have sent. This is called an invoice. Keep a +copy of the invoice for yourself so if any question arises you will +know what you are talking about. + + +SHIPPING TERMS + +C.O.D. means collect on delivery. The purchaser pays the price of the +products to the transportation company before they are delivered. + +F.O.B. means free on board. For instance: if you send a shipment of +canned goods to Chicago at $6.00 per case f.o.b. Charles City it means +that you deliver the canned goods to the freight depot at Charles City +and the purchaser pays both the price per case and the freight. If you +deliver them f.o.b. Chicago it means you deliver them to the freight +depot at Charles City and also pay the freight to Chicago. + +Bill of Lading with Sight Draft Attached is a call for the money +before the purchaser can take the products from the freight office. + +Drop Shipment. If a wholesale firm requests that you ship direct to +another firm buying from him, thus avoiding two shipments, this is +called a drop shipment. + +Lot Shipment. If you ship two or more barrels or cases as a "lot +shipment" to the same destination they may be sent at a cheaper rate +than if each were shipped separately. + + LIST OF FIRMS FURNISHING SUPPLIES FOR CANNING, DRYING, PRESERVING, ETC + + HOME AND CLUB COOEPERATIVE CANNING OUTFITS AND DEVICES + + Butler Manufacturing Co. Kansas City, Mo., and Hot water and steam + Minneapolis, Minn. pressure canners. + + Carolina Metal Products Co. Wilmington, N.C. " " " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. Hot water canners. + + Farm Canning Machine Co. Meridian, Miss. " " " + + Favorite Manufacturing Co. Tamps, Florida Water-seal canners. + + Florida Metal Products Jacksonville, Fla. Water-seal canners. + + Griffith & Turner Co. 205-207 N. Pace St., Steam canners. + Baltimore, Md. + + Halftime Cooker Co. 7556 Oglesby Avenue, Pressure canners. + Chicago, Ill. + + Hall Canner Co. Grand Rapids, Mich. Hot water bath + canners. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co 80-82 N. 5th Street, Steam pressure + Portland, Ore. canners. + + Home Canner Manufacturing Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + Co. + + E.F. Kirwan & Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Modern Canner Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Monarch Manufacturing Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. " " " + + Northwestern Steel & Iron Eau Claire, Wis. Steam pressure + Wks. canners. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Nashville, Tenn. Hot water canners. + Co. + + Pressure Cooker Co. Denver, Colo. Aluminum steam + pressure cookers + and canners. + + T.H. Raney Chapel Hill, N.C. Hot water canners. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Steam pressure + canners + + Royal Supply Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Steam process + canners. + + Southern Canner and Chattanooga, Tenn. Hot water canners + Evaporator Co. + + Sprague Canning Machinery 222 No. Wabash Ave., Steam pressure + Co. Chicago, Ill. canners. + + F.S. Stahl 212 N. 4th Street, Hot water canners. + Quincy, Ill. + + Standard Water-Seal Canner 17 N. 2nd Street, Water-seal canners. + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Utility Company Hickory, N.C. Hot water canners. + + Willson Canner Company Louisville, Ky., and Water-seal and + No. 8 G St., N.W. pressure canners. + Washington, D.C. + + + HOME EVAPORATORS, DRYERS, AND EQUIPMENT FOR DRYING + + American Paring Machine Co 1231 Callowhill St., + Philadelphia, Pa. Peeler + + Harry Bentz Engineering Co. 90 West St., New York City Dryer + + G.S. Blakekslee & Company, 2806 Quinn St., Chicago, Ill. " + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co., Baltimore, Md. + + Enterprise Mfg. Co., 3rd and Dauphin Sts., + Philadelphia, Pa. Slicer + + Edw. B. Fahrney, Waynesboro, Pa. + + Gordon Engineering Corporaton 39 Cortlandt St., New York City " + + The Grange Sales Association, Lafayette Bldg., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Hunter Dry Kiln Co. Indianapolis, Ind. Dryer + + Imperial Machine Company, 108 West 34th St., N.Y. City Cuber + + Lake Breeze Motor Co., 564 W. Monroe St., Chicago Dryer + + Philadelphia Drying Machinery Stekley St., above Westmoreland, + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. " + + Philadelphia Textile Machinery Sixth St. and Tabor Road, " + Co. Philadelphia, Pa. + + Phillips & Buttorff Mfg. Co., Nashville, Tenn. + + John E. Smith's Sons Co., Buffalo, N.Y. Cuber + + Southern Evaporator Co., Chattanooga, Tenn. + + F.S. Stahl, 212 N. 4th St., Quincy, Ill. + + N.R. Streeter Company, Rochester, N.Y. Dryer + + N.R. Streeter & Co., Rochester, N.Y. " + + B.F. Sturtevant Company, Hyde Park Dist., Boston, Mass. Peeler + + Stutzman Mfg. Company, Ligonier, Ind. + + H.G.W. Young Co., 61 Hanover St., Boston, Mass. Cuber + + + MECHANICAL SEALS AND SEALERS FOR TIN AND GLASS + + American Metal Cap Co., + Summit St. and Commercial + Wharf, Brooklyn, N.Y. Metal bottle caps. + + American Pure Food Process Co., + Greenmount Avenue and Preston + St., Baltimore, Md. Mechanical sealer for glass jars. + + Bowers Can Seal Company, + 146 Summer St., Boston, Mass. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + Burpe Can Sealer Co., + 215 W. Huron St., Chicago. Tin can sealer and opener. + + Columbia Specialty Co., + Baltimore, Md. Metal bottle caps. + + Crown Cork and Seal Co., + Baltimore, Chicago, San + Francisco, and other cities Sanitary metal bottle caps and sealers. + + The Enterprise Mfg. Co., + Philadelphia, Pa. Bottle cappers from 3 in. to 14 in. + + Frazer & Co., Mechanical hand sealer for sanitary + 50 Church Street, New York City cans. + + Henninger & Ayes Mfg. Co., + 47 1st Street, Portland, Ore. Automatic can sealers for tin cans. + + States Metals Co., Hand sealers for sanitary cans. + 30 Church Street, New York City + + + STEAMERS + + Aluminum Cooking Utensil Co. New Kensington, Pa. + + Toledo Cooker Co. Toledo, Ohio. + + Wilmot, Castle & Co. Rochester, N.Y. + + + + HEATING DEVICES, LIFTING CRATES, AND OTHER LABOR-SAVING DEVICES + + L.B. Allen Co. 4517 No. Lincoln St., + Chicago, Ill. Commercial flux. + + Biddle-Gaumer Co. Philadelphia, Pa. Patent canners. + + H.P. Chandlee Sons Co. Baltimore, Md. " " " + + Fagley & Halpen Philadelphia, Pa. " " " + + Handy Mfg. Co. Maritime Bldg., + Seattle Wash., and Individual jar holders. + 208 No. Wabash Ave., + Chicago, Ill. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Duplex fork. + + Manning, Bowman & Co. Meriden, Conn. Alcholite stoves. + + Parker Wire Goods Co. Worcester, Mass. Lifting tray for jars. + + Pearce Co. Albion, Mich. Racks and lifters. + + W.H. Schaefer Co. Toledo, Ohio. Fruit jar wrench. + + + + LABELS, STICKERS, SHIELDS AND BADGES + + Camden Curtain and + Embroidery Co Camden, New Jersey. + + R.P. Clarke & Co. Washington, D.C. + + Dennison Mfg. Co. Boston, Mass. + + U.S. Printing and + Lithograph Co. Cincinnati, Ohio. + + + TIN CANS AND GLASS JARS + + American Can Co. New York City. Tin cans. + + Ball Bros. Glass + Mfg. Co. Muncie, Ind. Screw top and glass-top jars + + Ben Schloss San Francisco, Cal. Glass jars. + + Buck Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Chesapeake Glass Co. Baltimore, Md. Glass jars. + + Continental Can Co. Chicago, Ill. Tin cans. + + Frazer & Co. 50 Church St., N.Y.C. Sanitary cans. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Glass-top jars. + + Johnson-Morse Can Co. Wheeling, W. Va. Tin cans. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle + Co. Zanesville, Ohio. Glass jars. + + Kerr Glass Mfg. Co. Sand Springs, Okla. Suction seal and Mason + jars. + + E.F. Kirwan Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + A.K. Robins & Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans and general + equipment. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. Suction seal and screw + top jars. + + Smalley Fruit Jar Co. 26 Dock Sq., Boston, Glass-top jars. + Mass. + + Southern Can Co. Baltimore, Md. Tin cans. + + F.S. Stahl Quincy, Ill. " " + + Staunton Jar Corporation Ellicott Sq, Buffalo, Vacuum seal jars. + N.Y. + + United States Can Co. Cincinnati, Ohio Tin cans. + + Virginia Can Co. Buchanan, Va. " " + + Wheeling Can Co. Wheeling, W.Va. " " + + + RUBBER RINGS FOR COLD-PACK CANNING + + Acme Rubber Co. Trenton, N.J. + + Boston Woven Hose & + Rubber Co. Boston, Mass. + + United States Rubber Co. Cleveland, Ohio. + + + GLASS BOTTLES AND OTHER CONTAINERS FOR FRUIT JUICES, CATSUP, + ETC. + + Adams Brothers Co. Chicago, Ill. + + Atlantic Bottle Co. 90 West Broadway, N.Y. City. + + Berney-Bond Glass Co. Bradford, Pa. + + Cape May Glass Co. Cape May Court House, N.J. + + Cumberland Glass Mfg. Co. Bridgeton, N.J. + + The Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Glenshaw Glass Co. Glenshaw, Pa. + + C.C. Goss Glass Co., Mfg. Agts. 172 Fulton St., New York City. + + Hocking Glass Co. Lancaster, Ohio. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Indiana Glass Co. Dunkirk, Ind. + + D.C. Jenkins Glass Co. Kokomo, Ind. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Wheeling Glass Bottle Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Ripley & Co. Connellsville, Pa. + + Schramm Glass Mfg. Co. St. Louis, Mo. + + Sheffield Glass Bottle Co. Sheffield, Pa. + + The Sterling Glass Co. Lapel, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + United States Glass Co. Salem, N.J. + + Upland Flint Bottle Co. Upland, Ind. + + Western Bottle Mfg. Co. West end Randolph St. Bridge, + Chicago, Ill. + + Whitall-Tatum Co. 410-416 Race St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Wightman Bottle & Glass Mfg. Co. Parkers Landing, Pa. + + Williamstown Glass Co. Williamstown, N.J. + + Woodbury Glass Co. Winchester, Ind. + + + GLASS BOTTLES SEALED WITH CORKS AND METAL CAPS + + Acme Glass Co. Olean, N.Y. + + Binghamton Glass Co. Binghamton, N.Y. + + C.L. Flaccus Glass Co. Pittsburgh, Pa. + + Hazel-Atlas Glass Co. Wheeling, W.Va. + + Imperial Glass Co. Charleroi, Pa. + + Jeanette Glass Co. Jeanette, Pa. + + Kearns-Gorsuch Bottle Co. Zanesville, Ohio. + + North Baltimore Bottle Glass Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Turner Brothers Co. Terre Haute, Ind. + + Whitney Glass Works Glassboro, N.J. + + + EARTHENWARE AND STONEWARE CONTAINERS + + Buckel Pottery Co. White Hall, Ill. + + Buckeye Pottery Co. Macomb, Ill. + + Burley and Winter Pottery Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Hawthorn Pottery Co. Hawthorn, Pa. + + Logan Pottery Co. Logan, Ohio + + Louisville Pottery Co. Louisville, Ky. + + Muskingum Pottery Co. White Cottage, Ohio. + + Nashville Pottery Co. Nashville, Tenn. + + Nelson McCly Sanitary Hardware Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Paducah Pottery Co. Paducah, Ky. + + Pfaltzaraff Pottery Co. York, Pa. + + Ransbottom Bros., Pottery Co. Roseville, Ohio. + + Red Wing Union Stoneware Co. Red Wing, Minn. + + Star Stoneware Co. Crooksville, Ohio. + + Uhl Pottery Co. Evansville, Ind. + + Western Stoneware Co. Monmouth, Ill. + + White Hall Sewer Pipe & Stoneware Co. White Hall, Ill. + + + FIBRE AND PAPER CANS AND BOTTLES + + American Can Co. 447 W. 14th, New York City, and + Chicago, Ill. + + The American Paper Can Co. Washington, D.C. + + The Canister Company of New Jersey Phillipsburg, N.J. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cordley & Hayes 7-9 Leonard St., New York City. + + The Empire Paper Tube and Box Co. 155 Bank St., New York City. + + The Hygeia Paper Container Co. 2106 Auburn Ave., Toledo, Ohio. + + Moisture Proof Fibre Can Co. Detroit, Mich. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + Samuel W. Moore & Sons 95 Liberty St., New York City. + + National Paper Can Co. 576 Clinton St., Milwaukee, Wis. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Pure Food Package Co. 200 Devonshire St., Boston, Mass. + + The Purity Paper Bottle Co., Inc. 1341 S. Capitol St., Washington, + D.C. + + W.C. Ritchie & Co. 400 S. Green St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sanitary Paper Bottle Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Single Service Package Corp. of + America 326 Hudson St., New York City. + + St. Louis Paper Can & Tube Co. 4400 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, Mo. + + The Standard Package Co. 50 State St., Boston, Mass. + + Washington Paper Can Co. 425 12th St., N.W., Washington, D.C. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + FOIL-LINED PAPER BAGS + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + + DELIVERY CONTAINERS FOR EGGS, VEGETABLES, DRIED FOOD PRODUCTS, + ETC. + + Bloomer Bros. Co. Newark, New York. + + Doane Carton Co. 920 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Mono-Service Co. Newark, N.J. + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Thomas M. Royal & Co. Bryn Mawr, Pa. + + W.A. Schurmann & Co. 365 E. Ill. St., Chicago, Ill. + + Sefton Mfg. Co. 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + United States Corrugated Fibre + Box Co. Roosevelt Ave., Indianapolis, Ind. + + Weis Fibre Container Corporation Monroe, Mich. + + + PARCEL POST EGG CONTAINERS + + O.B. Andrews Co. Chattanooga, Tenn. + + H.K. Brunner 45 Harrison St., New York City. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St Louis, Mo. + + Continental Paper Bag Co. 17 Battery Place, New York City. + + Cummer Mfg. Co. Cadillac, Mich. + + Day Collapsible Box Co., Inc. Washington Grove, Md. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + F.B. Foster & C o. 2447 Locust St., Philadelphia, Pa. + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio. + + Ohio No-Break Carrier Co. 702 Mercantile Library Bldg., + Cincinnati, Ohio. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Self-Locking Carton Co. 437 E. Illinois St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord & Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Safety Egg Carrier Co. Newark, N.Y. + + Wallace Egg Carrier Co. 451 3rd St., San Francisco, Cal. + + + MISCELLANEOUS CORRUGATED BOARD CONTAINERS + + American Can Co. New York City and Chicago, Ill. + + J.C. Bulis Mfg. Co. 1122-28 S. 12th St., St. Louis, Mo. + + Empire Printing & Box Co. Atlanta, Ga. + + Federal Glass Co. Columbus, Ohio + + Robert Gair Co. Brooklyn, N.Y. + + Hinde & Dauch Paper Co. Sandusky, Ohio + + National Paper Products Co. San Francisco, Cal. + + Sefton Mfg. Corporation 1301 W. 35th St., Chicago, Ill. + + Thompson & Norris Co. Concord and Prince Sts., Brooklyn, + N.Y. + Boston, Mass., and Brookville, Ind. + + U.S. Corrugated Fibre Box Co. 1315 Martindale Ave., Indianapolis, + Ind. + + + THERMOMETERS FOR OVEN, CANDY AND SUGAR + + Taylor Instrument Companies Rochester, N.Y. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EVERY STEP IN CANNING*** + + +******* This file should be named 13775.txt or 13775.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +https://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/1/3/7/7/13775 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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