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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:17:02 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:17:02 -0700 |
| commit | 9612431bd730d7ac80959f145053529607fdc30e (patch) | |
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diff --git a/1372-h/1372-h.htm b/1372-h/1372-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5dca97d --- /dev/null +++ b/1372-h/1372-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,13072 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <title> + The Adventures of Captain Bonneville, by Washington Irving + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1372 ***</div> + + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE + </h1> + <h2> + Digested from his journal + </h2> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h3> + by Washington Irving + </h3> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h4> + Originally published in 1837 + </h4> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> Introductory Notice </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> 1. -- State of the fur trade of the—Rocky Mountains—American + enterprises—General—Ashley and his associates—Sublette, a + famous leader—Yearly rendezvous among the mountains— + Stratagems and dangers of the trade—Bands of trappers— + Indian banditti—Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers—Traders + of the—Far West—Character and habits of the trapper </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> 2. -- Departure from—Fort Osage—Modes of transportation—Pack- + horses—Wagons—Walker and Cerre; their characters—Buoyant + feelings on launching upon the prairies—Wild equipments of + the trappers—Their gambols and antics—Difference of + character between the American and French trappers—Agency + of the Kansas—General—Clarke—White Plume, the Kansas + chief—Night scene in a trader’s camp—Colloquy between— + White Plume and the captain—Bee-hunters—Their + expeditions—Their feuds with the Indians—Bargaining talent + of White Plume </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> 3. -- Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills—Slabs of + sandstone Nebraska or Platte River—Scanty fare—Buffalo + skulls—Wagons turned into boats—Herds of buffalo—Cliffs + resembling castles—The chimney—Scott’s Bluffs Story + connected with them—The bighorn or ahsahta—Its nature and + habits—Difference between that and the “woolly sheep,” or + goat of the mountains </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> 4. -- An alarm—Crow—Indians—Their appearance—Mode of approach + —Their vengeful errand—Their curiosity—Hostility between + the Crows and Blackfeet—Loving conduct of the Crows— + Laramie’s Fork—First navigation of the—Nebraska—Great + elevation of the country—Rarity of the atmosphere—Its + effect on the wood-work of wagons—Black Hills—Their wild + and broken scenery—Indian dogs—Crow trophies—Sterile and + dreary country—Banks of the Sweet Water—Buffalo hunting— + Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> 5. -- Magnificent scenery—Wind River—Mountains—Treasury of + waters—A stray horse—An Indian trail—Trout streams—The + Great Green River Valley—An alarm—A band of trappers— + Fontenelle, his information—Sufferings of thirst— + Encampment on the Seedskedee—Strategy of rival traders— + Fortification of the camp—The—Blackfeet—Banditti of the + mountains—Their character and habits </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> 6. -- Sublette and his band—Robert—Campbell—Mr. Wyeth and a + band of “down-easters”—Yankee enterprise—Fitzpatrick—His + adventure with the Blackfeet—A rendezvous of mountaineers— + The battle of—Pierre’s Hole—An Indian ambuscade— + Sublette’s return </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> 7. -- Retreat of the Blackfeet—Fontenelle’s camp in danger— + Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet—Free trappers—Their + character, habits, dress, equipments, horses—Game fellows + of the mountains—Their visit to the camp—Good fellowship + and good cheer—A carouse—A swagger, a brawl, and a + reconciliation </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> 8. -- Plans for the winter—Salmon River—Abundance of salmon west + of the mountains—New arrangements—Caches—Cerre’s + detachment—Movements in—Fontenelle’s camp—Departure of + the—Blackfeet—Their fortunes—Wind—Mountain streams— + Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear—Bones of + murdered travellers—Visit to Pierre’s Hole—Traces of the + battle—Nez—Perce—Indians—Arrival at—Salmon River </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> 9. -- Horses turned loose—Preparations for winter quarters— + Hungry times—Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific + habits, religious ceremonies—Captain Bonneville’s + conversations with them—Their love of gambling </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> 10.-- Black Feet in the Horse Prairie—Search after the hunters— + Difficulties and dangers—A card party in the wilderness— + The card party interrupted—“Old Sledge” a losing game— + Visitors to the camp—Iroquois hunters—Hanging-eared + Indians </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> 11. -- Rival trapping parties—Manoeuvring—A desperate game— + Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet—Deserted camp fire—A dark + defile—An Indian ambush—A fierce melee—Fatal + consequences—Fitzpatrick and Bridger—Trappers precautions + —Meeting with the Blackfeet—More fighting—Anecdote of a + young—Mexican and an Indian girl. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> 12. -- A winter camp in the wilderness—Medley of trappers, + hunters, and Indians—Scarcity of game—New arrangements in + the camp—Detachments sent to a distance—Carelessness of + the Indians when encamped—Sickness among the Indians— + Excellent character of the Nez-Perces—The Captain’s effort + as a pacificator—A Nez-Perce’s argument in favor of war— + Robberies, by the Black feet—Long suffering of the Nez- + Perces—A hunter’s Elysium among the mountains—More + robberies—The Captain preaches up a crusade—The effect + upon his hearers.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0014"> 13. -- Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0015"> 14. -- The party enters the mountain gorge—A wild fastness among + hills—Mountain mutton—Peace and plenty—The amorous + trapper-A piebald wedding—A free trapper’s wife—Her gala + equipments—Christmas in the wilderness. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0016"> 15. -- A hunt after hunters—Hungry times—A voracious repast— + Wintry weather—Godin’s River—Splendid winter scene on the + great—Lava Plain of Snake River—Severe travelling and + tramping in the snow—Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian + horseman—Encampment on Snake River—Banneck Indians—The + horse chief—His charmed life.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0017"> 16. -- Misadventures of Matthieu and his party—Return to the + caches at Salmon River—Battle between Nez Perces and Black + feet—Heroism of a Nez Perce woman—Enrolled among the + braves.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0018"> 17. -- Opening of the caches—Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss + Salmon River Mountains—Superstition of an Indian trapper— + Godin’s River—Preparations for trapping—An alarm—An + interruption—A rival band—Phenomena of Snake River Plain + Vast clefts and chasms—Ingulfed streams—Sublime scenery—A + grand buffalo hunt.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0019"> 18. -- Meeting with Hodgkiss—Misfortunes of the Nez Perces— + Schemes of Kosato, the renegado—His foray into the Horse + Prairie—Invasion of Black feet—Blue John and his forlorn + hope—Their generous enterprise—Their fate—Consternation + and despair of the village—Solemn obsequies—Attempt at + Indian trade—Hudson’s Bay Company’s monopoly—Arrangements + for autumn—Breaking up of an encampment.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0020"> 19. -- Precautions in dangerous defiles—Trappers’ mode of defence + on a prairie—A mysterious visitor—Arrival in Green River + Valley—Adventures of the detachments—The forlorn partisan + —His tale of disasters.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0021"> 20. -- Gathering in Green River valley—Visitings and feastings of + leaders—Rough wassailing among the trappers—Wild blades of + the mountains—Indian belles—Potency of bright beads and + red blankets—Arrival of supplies—Revelry and extravagance + —Mad wolves—The lost Indian</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0022"> 21. -- Schemes of Captain Bonneville—The Great Salt Lake + Expedition to explore it—Preparations for a journey to the + Bighorn</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0023"> 22. -- The Crow country—A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows— + Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man—His fights with + the Blackfeet—His elevation—His death—Arapooish, the Crow + chief—His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell—Honor among + Crows</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0024"> 23. -- Departure from—Green River valley—Popo-Agie—Its course— + The rivers into which it runs—Scenery of the Bluffs the + great Tar Spring—Volcanic tracts in the Crow country— + Burning Mountain of Powder River—Sulphur springs—Hidden + fires—Colter’s Hell-Wind River—Campbell’s party— + Fitzpatrick and his trappers—Captain Stewart, an amateur + traveller—Nathaniel Wyeth—Anecdotes of his expedition to + the Far West—Disaster of Campbell’s party—A union of + bands—The Bad Pass—The rapids—Departure of Fitzpatrick— + Embarkation of peltries—Wyeth and his bull boat—Adventures + of Captain—Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains—Adventures + in the plain—Traces of Indians—Travelling precautions— + Dangers of making a smoke—The rendezvous</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0025"> 24. -- Adventures of the party of ten—The—Balaamite mule—A dead + point—The mysterious elks—A night attack—A retreat— + Travelling under an alarm—A joyful meeting—Adventures of + the other party—A decoy elk—Retreat to an island—A savage + dance of triumph—Arrival at Wind River</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0026"> 25. -- Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley—Journey + up the Popo Agie—Buffaloes—The staring white bears—The + smok—The warm springs—Attempt to traverse the Wind River + Mountains—The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms— + Crystal lakes—Ascent of a snowy peak—Sublime prospect—A + panorama “Les dignes de pitie,” or wild men of the mountains</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0027"> 26. -- A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent—Alpine + scenery—Cascades—Beaver valleys—Beavers at work—Their + architecture—Their modes of felling trees—Mode of trapping + beaver—Contests of skill—A beaver “up to trap”—Arrival at + the Green River caches</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0028"> 27. -- Route toward—Wind River—Dangerous neighborhood—Alarms and + precautions—A sham encampment—Apparition of an Indian spy— + Midnight move—A mountain defile—The Wind River valley— + Tracking a party—Deserted camps—Symptoms of Crows—Meeting + of comrades—A trapper entrapped—Crow pleasantry—Crow + spies—A decampment—Return to Green River valley—Meeting + with Fitzpatrick’s party—Their adventures among the Crows— + Orthodox Crows </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0029"> 28. -- A region of natural curiosities—The plain of white clay— + Hot springs—The Beer Spring—Departure to seek the free + trappers—Plain of Portneuf—Lava—Chasms and gullies— + Bannack Indians—Their hunt of the buffalo—Hunter’s feast— + Trencher heroes—Bullying of an absent foe—The damp + comrade—The Indian spy—Meeting with Hodgkiss—His + adventures—Poordevil Indians—Triumph of the Bannacks— + Blackfeet policy in war</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0030"> 29. -- Winter camp at the Portneuf—Fine springs—The Bannack + Indians—Their honesty—Captain—Bonneville prepares for an + expedition—Christmas—The American—Falls—Wild scenery— + Fishing Falls—Snake Indians—Scenery on the Bruneau—View + of volcanic country from a mountain—Powder River— + Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers—Their character, habits, + habitations, dogs—Vanity at its last shift</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0031"> 30. -- Temperature of the climate—Root Diggers on horseback—An + Indian guide—Mountain prospects—The Grand Rond— + Difficulties on Snake River—A scramble over the Blue + Mountains—Sufferings from hunger—Prospect of the Immahah + Valley—The exhausted traveller</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0032"> 31. -- Progress in the valley—An Indian cavalier—The captain + falls into a lethargy—A Nez-Perce patriarch—Hospitable + treatment—The bald head—Bargaining—Value of an old plaid + cloak—The family horse—The cost of an Indian present</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0033"> 32. -- Nez-Perce camp—A chief with a hard name—The Big Hearts of + the East—Hospitable treatment—The Indian guides— + Mysterious councils—The loquacious chief—Indian tomb— + Grand Indian reception—An Indian feast—Town-criers— + Honesty of the Nez-Perces—The captain’s attempt at + healing.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0034"> 33. -- Scenery of the Way-lee-way—A substitute for tobacco— + Sublime scenery of—Snake River—The garrulous old chief and + his cousin—A Nez-Perce meeting—A stolen skin—The + scapegoat dog—Mysterious conferences—The little chief—His + hospitality—The captain’s account of the United States—His + healing skill</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0035"> 34. -- Fort Wallah-Wallah—Its commander—Indians in its + neighborhood—Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their + improvement—Religion—Code of laws—Range of the Lower Nez + Perces—Camash, and other roots—Nez—Perce horses— + Preparations for departure—Refusal of supplies—Departure— + A laggard and glutton</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0036"> 35. -- The uninvited guest—Free and easy manners—Salutary jokes— + A prodigal son—Exit of the glutton—A sudden change in + fortune—Danger of a visit to poor relations—Plucking of a + prosperous man—A vagabond toilet—A substitute for the very + fine horse—Hard travelling—The uninvited guest and the + patriarchal colt—A beggar on horseback—A catastrophe—Exit + of the merry vagabond</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0037"> 36. -- The difficult mountain—A smoke and consultation—The + captain’s speech—An icy turnpike—Danger of a false step— + Arrival on Snake River—Return to—Portneuf—Meeting of + comrades </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0038"> 37. -- Departure for the rendezvous—A war party of Blackfeet—A + mock bustle—Sham fires at night—Warlike precautions— + Dangers of a night attack—A panic among horses—Cautious + march—The Beer Springs—A mock carousel—Skirmishing with + buffaloes—A buffalo bait—Arrival at the rendezvous— + Meeting of various bands</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0039"> 38. -- Plan of the Salt Lake expedition—Great sandy deserts— + Sufferings from thirst—Ogden’s—River—Trails and smoke of + lurking savages—Thefts at night—A trapper’s revenge— + Alarms of a guilty conscience—A murderous victory— + Californian mountains—Plains along the—Pacific—Arrival + at—Monterey—Account of the place and neighborhood—Lower— + California—Its extent—The Peninsula—Soil—Climate— + Production—Its settlements by the Jesuits—Their sway over + the Indians—Their expulsion—Ruins of a missionary + establishment—Sublime scenery—Upper California Missions— + Their power and policy—Resources of the country—Designs of + foreign nations + +</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0040"> 39. -- Gay life at Monterey—Mexican horsemen—A bold dragoon—Use + of the lasso—Vaqueros—Noosing a bear—Fight between a bull + and a bear—Departure from Monterey—Indian horse stealers— + Outrages committed by the travellers—Indignation of Captain + Bonneville </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0041"> 40. -- Traveller’s tales—Indian lurkers—Prognostics of Buckeye + Signs and portents—The medicine wolf—An alarm—An ambush + The captured provant—Triumph of Buckeye—Arrival of + supplies Grand carouse—Arrangements for the year—Mr. Wyeth + and his new-levied band.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0042"> 41. -- A voyage in a bull boat.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0044"> 42. -- Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia—Advance of + Wyeth—Efforts to keep the lead—Hudson’s Bay party—A + junketing—A delectable beverage—Honey and alcohol—High + carousing—The Canadian “bon vivant”—A cache—A rapid move + Wyeth and his plans—His travelling companions—Buffalo + hunting More conviviality—An interruption.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0045"> 43. -- A rapid march—A cloud of dust—Wild horsemen—“High Jinks” + Horseracing and rifle-shooting—The game of hand—The + fishing season—Mode of fishing—Table lands—Salmon + fishers—The captain’s visit to an Indian lodge—The Indian + girl—The pocket mirror—Supper—Troubles of an evil + conscience.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0046"> 44. -- Outfit of a trapper—Risks to which he is subjected— + Partnership of trappers—Enmity of Indians—Distant smoke—A + country on fire—Gun Greek—Grand Rond—Fine pastures— + Perplexities in a smoky country—Conflagration of forests.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0047"> 45. -- The Shynses—Their traffic—Hunting—Food—Horses—A horse- + race—Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and + Flatheads—Prayers—Exhortations—A preacher on horseback + Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes—A new + light.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0048"> 46. -- Scarcity in the camp—Refusal of supplies by the Hudson’s + Bay Company—Conduct of the Indians—A hungry retreat—John + Day’s River—The Blue Mountains—Salmon fishing on Snake + River Messengers from the Crow country—Bear River Valley— + immense migration of buffalo—Danger of buffalo hunting—A + wounded Indian—Eutaw Indians—A “surround” of antelopes.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0049"> 47. -- A festive winter—Conversion of the Shoshonies—Visit of two + free trappers—Gayety in the camp—A touch of the tender + passion—The reclaimed squaw—An Indian fine lady—An + elopement—A pursuit—Market value of a bad wife.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0050"> 48. -- Breaking up of winter quarters—Move to Green River—A + trapper and his rifle—An arrival in camp—A free trapper + and his squaw in distress—Story of a Blackfoot belle.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0051"> 49. -- Rendezvous at Wind River—Campaign of Montero and his + brigade in the Crow country—Wars between the Crows and + Blackfeet—Death—of Arapooish—Blackfeet lurkers—Sagacity + of the horse—Dependence of the hunter on his horse—Return + to the settlements.</a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE"> Appendix </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0053"> Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest + Coast </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0054"> Instructions to Captain Bonneville </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + Introductory Notice + </h2> + <p> + WHILE ENGAGED in writing an account of the grand enterprise of Astoria, it + was my practice to seek all kinds of oral information connected with the + subject. Nowhere did I pick up more interesting particulars than at the + table of Mr. John Jacob Astor; who, being the patriarch of the fur trade + in the United States, was accustomed to have at his board various persons + of adventurous turn, some of whom had been engaged in his own great + undertaking; others, on their own account, had made expeditions to the + Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + Among these personages, one who peculiarly took my fancy was Captain + Bonneville, of the United States army; who, in a rambling kind of + enterprise, had strangely ingrafted the trapper and hunter upon the + soldier. As his expeditions and adventures will form the leading theme of + the following pages, a few biographical particulars concerning him may not + be unacceptable. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville is of French parentage. His father was a worthy old + emigrant, who came to this country many years since, and took up his abode + in New York. He is represented as a man not much calculated for the sordid + struggle of a money-making world, but possessed of a happy temperament, a + festivity of imagination, and a simplicity of heart, that made him proof + against its rubs and trials. He was an excellent scholar; well acquainted + with Latin and Greek, and fond of the modern classics. His book was his + elysium; once immersed in the pages of Voltaire, Corneille, or Racine, or + of his favorite English author, Shakespeare, he forgot the world and all + its concerns. Often would he be seen in summer weather, seated under one + of the trees on the Battery, or the portico of St. Paul’s church in + Broadway, his bald head uncovered, his hat lying by his side, his eyes + riveted to the page of his book, and his whole soul so engaged, as to lose + all consciousness of the passing throng or the passing hour. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville, it will be found, inherited something of his father’s + bonhommie, and his excitable imagination; though the latter was somewhat + disciplined in early years, by mathematical studies. He was educated at + our national Military Academy at West Point, where he acquitted himself + very creditably; thence, he entered the army, in which he has ever since + continued. + </p> + <p> + The nature of our military service took him to the frontier, where, for a + number of years, he was stationed at various posts in the Far West. Here + he was brought into frequent intercourse with Indian traders, mountain + trappers, and other pioneers of the wilderness; and became so excited by + their tales of wild scenes and wild adventures, and their accounts of vast + and magnificent regions as yet unexplored, that an expedition to the Rocky + Mountains became the ardent desire of his heart, and an enterprise to + explore untrodden tracts, the leading object of his ambition. + </p> + <p> + By degrees he shaped his vague day-dream into a practical reality. Having + made himself acquainted with all the requisites for a trading enterprise + beyond the mountains, he determined to undertake it. A leave of absence, + and a sanction of his expedition, was obtained from the major general in + chief, on his offering to combine public utility with his private + projects, and to collect statistical information for the War Department + concerning the wild countries and wild tribes he might visit in the course + of his journeyings. + </p> + <p> + Nothing now was wanting to the darling project of the captain, but the + ways and means. The expedition would require an outfit of many thousand + dollars; a staggering obstacle to a soldier, whose capital is seldom any + thing more than his sword. Full of that buoyant hope, however, which + belongs to the sanguine temperament, he repaired to New-York, the great + focus of American enterprise, where there are always funds ready for any + scheme, however chimerical or romantic. Here he had the good fortune to + meet with a gentleman of high respectability and influence, who had been + his associate in boyhood, and who cherished a schoolfellow friendship for + him. He took a general interest in the scheme of the captain; introduced + him to commercial men of his acquaintance, and in a little while an + association was formed, and the necessary funds were raised to carry the + proposed measure into effect. One of the most efficient persons in this + association was Mr. Alfred Seton, who, when quite a youth, had accompanied + one of the expeditions sent out by Mr. Astor to his commercial + establishments on the Columbia, and had distinguished himself by his + activity and courage at one of the interior posts. Mr. Seton was one of + the American youths who were at Astoria at the time of its surrender to + the British, and who manifested such grief and indignation at seeing the + flag of their country hauled down. The hope of seeing that flag once more + planted on the shores of the Columbia, may have entered into his motives + for engaging in the present enterprise. + </p> + <p> + Thus backed and provided, Captain Bonneville undertook his expedition into + the Far West, and was soon beyond the Rocky Mountains. Year after year + elapsed without his return. The term of his leave of absence expired, yet + no report was made of him at head quarters at Washington. He was + considered virtually dead or lost and his name was stricken from the army + list. + </p> + <p> + It was in the autumn of 1835 at the country seat of Mr. John Jacob Astor, + at Hellgate, that I first met with Captain Bonneville He was then just + returned from a residence of upwards of three years among the mountains, + and was on his way to report himself at head quarters, in the hopes of + being reinstated in the service. From all that I could learn, his + wanderings in the wilderness though they had gratified his curiosity and + his love of adventure had not much benefited his fortunes. Like Corporal + Trim in his campaigns, he had “satisfied the sentiment,” and that was all. + In fact, he was too much of the frank, freehearted soldier, and had + inherited too much of his father’s temperament, to make a scheming + trapper, or a thrifty bargainer. + </p> + <p> + There was something in the whole appearance of the captain that + prepossessed me in his favor. He was of the middle size, well made and + well set; and a military frock of foreign cut, that had seen service, gave + him a look of compactness. His countenance was frank, open, and engaging; + well browned by the sun, and had something of a French expression. He had + a pleasant black eye, a high forehead, and, while he kept his hat on, the + look of a man in the jocund prime of his days; but the moment his head was + uncovered, a bald crown gained him credit for a few more years than he was + really entitled to. + </p> + <p> + Being extremely curious, at the time, about every thing connected with the + Far West, I addressed numerous questions to him. They drew from him a + number of extremely striking details, which were given with mingled + modesty and frankness; and in a gentleness of manner, and a soft tone of + voice, contrasting singularly with the wild and often startling nature of + his themes. It was difficult to conceive the mild, quiet-looking personage + before you, the actual hero of the stirring scenes related. + </p> + <p> + In the course of three or four months, happening to be at the city of + Washington, I again came upon the captain, who was attending the slow + adjustment of his affairs with the War Department. I found him quartered + with a worthy brother in arms, a major in the army. Here he was writing at + a table, covered with maps and papers, in the centre of a large barrack + room, fancifully decorated with Indian arms, and trophies, and war + dresses, and the skins of various wild animals, and hung round with + pictures of Indian games and ceremonies, and scenes of war and hunting. In + a word, the captain was beguiling the tediousness of attendance at court, + by an attempt at authorship; and was rewriting and extending his + travelling notes, and making maps of the regions he had explored. As he + sat at the table, in this curious apartment, with his high bald head of + somewhat foreign cast, he reminded me of some of those antique pictures of + authors that I have seen in old Spanish volumes. + </p> + <p> + The result of his labors was a mass of manuscript, which he subsequently + put at my disposal, to fit it for publication and bring it before the + world. I found it full of interesting details of life among the mountains, + and of the singular castes and races, both white men and red men, among + whom he had sojourned. It bore, too, throughout, the impress of his + character, his bonhommie, his kindliness of spirit, and his susceptibility + to the grand and beautiful. + </p> + <p> + That manuscript has formed the staple of the following work. I have + occasionally interwoven facts and details, gathered from various sources, + especially from the conversations and journals of some of the captain’s + contemporaries, who were actors in the scenes he describes. I have also + given it a tone and coloring drawn from my own observation, during an + excursion into the Indian country beyond the bounds of civilization; as I + before observed, however, the work is substantially the narrative of the + worthy captain, and many of its most graphic passages are but little + varied from his own language. + </p> + <p> + I shall conclude this notice by a dedication which he had made of his + manuscript to his hospitable brother in arms, in whose quarters I found + him occupied in his literary labors; it is a dedication which, I believe, + possesses the qualities, not always found in complimentary documents of + the kind, of being sincere, and being merited. + </p> + <p> + To JAMES HARVEY HOOK, Major, U. S. A., whose jealousy of its honor, whose + anxiety for its interests, and whose sensibility for its wants, have + endeared him to the service as The Soldier’s Friend; and whose general + amenity, constant cheerfulness, disinterested hospitality, and unwearied + benevolence, entitle him to the still loftier title of The Friend of Man, + this work is inscribed, etc. + </p> + <p> + WASHINGTON IRVING <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + 1. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + State of the fur trade of the—Rocky Mountains—American + enterprises—General—Ashley and his associates—Sublette, a + famous leader—Yearly rendezvous among the mountains— + Stratagems and dangers of the trade—Bands of trappers— + Indian banditti—Crows and Blackfeet Mountaineers—Traders + of the—Far West—Character and habits of the trapper +</pre> + <p> + IN A RECENT WORK we have given an account of the grand enterprise of Mr. + John Jacob Astor to establish an American emporium for the fur trade at + the mouth of the Columbia, or Oregon River; of the failure of that + enterprise through the capture of Astoria by the British, in 1814; and of + the way in which the control of the trade of the Columbia and its + dependencies fell into the hands of the Northwest Company. We have stated, + likewise, the unfortunate supineness of the American government in + neglecting the application of Mr. Astor for the protection of the American + flag, and a small military force, to enable him to reinstate himself in + the possession of Astoria at the return of peace; when the post was + formally given up by the British government, though still occupied by the + Northwest Company. By that supineness the sovereignty in the country has + been virtually lost to the United States; and it will cost both + governments much trouble and difficulty to settle matters on that just and + rightful footing on which they would readily have been placed had the + proposition of Mr. Astor been attended to. We shall now state a few + particulars of subsequent events, so as to lead the reader up to the + period of which we are about to treat, and to prepare him for the + circumstances of our narrative. + </p> + <p> + In consequence of the apathy and neglect of the American government, Mr. + Astor abandoned all thoughts of regaining Astoria, and made no further + attempt to extend his enterprises beyond the Rocky Mountains; and the + Northwest Company considered themselves the lords of the country. They did + not long enjoy unmolested the sway which they had somewhat surreptitiously + attained. A fierce competition ensued between them and their old rivals, + the Hudson’s Bay Company; which was carried on at great cost and + sacrifice, and occasionally with the loss of life. It ended in the ruin of + most of the partners of the Northwest Company; and the merging of the + relics of that establishment, in 1821, in the rival association. From that + time, the Hudson’s Bay Company enjoyed a monopoly of the Indian trade from + the coast of the Pacific to the Rocky Mountains, and for a considerable + extent north and south. They removed their emporium from Astoria to Fort + Vancouver, a strong post on the left bank of the Columbia River, about + sixty miles from its mouth; whence they furnished their interior posts, + and sent forth their brigades of trappers. + </p> + <p> + The Rocky Mountains formed a vast barrier between them and the United + States, and their stern and awful defiles, their rugged valleys, and the + great western plains watered by their rivers, remained almost a terra + incognita to the American trapper. The difficulties experienced in 1808, + by Mr. Henry of the Missouri Company, the first American who trapped upon + the head-waters of the Columbia; and the frightful hardships sustained by + Wilson P. Hunt, Ramsay Crooks, Robert Stuart, and other intrepid + Astorians, in their ill-fated expeditions across the mountains, appeared + for a time to check all further enterprise in that direction. The American + traders contented themselves with following up the head branches of the + Missouri, the Yellowstone, and other rivers and streams on the Atlantic + side of the mountains, but forbore to attempt those great snow-crowned + sierras. + </p> + <p> + One of the first to revive these tramontane expeditions was General + Ashley, of Missouri, a man whose courage and achievements in the + prosecution of his enterprises have rendered him famous in the Far West. + In conjunction with Mr. Henry, already mentioned, he established a post on + the banks of the Yellowstone River in 1822, and in the following year + pushed a resolute band of trappers across the mountains to the banks of + the Green River or Colorado of the West, often known by the Indian name of + the Seeds-ke-dee Agie. This attempt was followed up and sustained by + others, until in 1825 a footing was secured, and a complete system of + trapping organized beyond the mountains. + </p> + <p> + It is difficult to do justice to the courage, fortitude, and perseverance + of the pioneers of the fur trade, who conducted these early expeditions, + and first broke their way through a wilderness where everything was + calculated to deter and dismay them. They had to traverse the most dreary + and desolate mountains, and barren and trackless wastes, uninhabited by + man, or occasionally infested by predatory and cruel savages. They knew + nothing of the country beyond the verge of their horizon, and had to + gather information as they wandered. They beheld volcanic plains + stretching around them, and ranges of mountains piled up to the clouds, + and glistening with eternal frost: but knew nothing of their defiles, nor + how they were to be penetrated or traversed. They launched themselves in + frail canoes on rivers, without knowing whither their swift currents would + carry them, or what rocks and shoals and rapids they might encounter in + their course. They had to be continually on the alert, too, against the + mountain tribes, who beset every defile, laid ambuscades in their path, or + attacked them in their night encampments; so that, of the hardy bands of + trappers that first entered into these regions, three-fifths are said to + have fallen by the hands of savage foes. + </p> + <p> + In this wild and warlike school a number of leaders have sprung up, + originally in the employ, subsequently partners of Ashley; among these we + may mention Smith, Fitzpatrick, Bridger, Robert Campbell, and William + Sublette; whose adventures and exploits partake of the wildest spirit of + romance. The association commenced by General Ashley underwent various + modifications. That gentleman having acquired sufficient fortune, sold out + his interest and retired; and the leading spirit that succeeded him was + Captain William Sublette; a man worthy of note, as his name has become + renowned in frontier story. He is a native of Kentucky, and of game + descent; his maternal grandfather, Colonel Wheatley, a companion of Boon, + having been one of the pioneers of the West, celebrated in Indian warfare, + and killed in one of the contests of the “Bloody Ground.” We shall + frequently have occasion to speak of this Sublette, and always to the + credit of his game qualities. In 1830, the association took the name of + the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, of which Captain Sublette and Robert + Campbell were prominent members. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, the success of this company attracted the attention and + excited the emulation of the American Fur Company, and brought them once + more into the field of their ancient enterprise. Mr. Astor, the founder of + the association, had retired from busy life, and the concerns of the + company were ably managed by Mr. Ramsay Crooks, of Snake River renown, who + still officiates as its president. A competition immediately ensued + between the two companies for the trade with the mountain tribes and the + trapping of the head-waters of the Columbia and the other great + tributaries of the Pacific. Beside the regular operations of these + formidable rivals, there have been from time to time desultory + enterprises, or rather experiments, of minor associations, or of + adventurous individuals beside roving bands of independent trappers, who + either hunt for themselves, or engage for a single season, in the service + of one or other of the main companies. + </p> + <p> + The consequence is that the Rocky Mountains and the ulterior regions, from + the Russian possessions in the north down to the Spanish settlements of + California, have been traversed and ransacked in every direction by bands + of hunters and Indian traders; so that there is scarcely a mountain pass, + or defile, that is not known and threaded in their restless migrations, + nor a nameless stream that is not haunted by the lonely trapper. + </p> + <p> + The American fur companies keep no established posts beyond the mountains. + Everything there is regulated by resident partners; that is to say, + partners who reside in the tramontane country, but who move about from + place to place, either with Indian tribes, whose traffic they wish to + monopolize, or with main bodies of their own men, whom they employ in + trading and trapping. In the meantime, they detach bands, or “brigades” as + they are termed, of trappers in various directions, assigning to each a + portion of country as a hunting or trapping ground. In the months of June + and July, when there is an interval between the hunting seasons, a general + rendezvous is held, at some designated place in the mountains, where the + affairs of the past year are settled by the resident partners, and the + plans for the following year arranged. + </p> + <p> + To this rendezvous repair the various brigades of trappers from their + widely separated hunting grounds, bringing in the products of their year’s + campaign. Hither also repair the Indian tribes accustomed to traffic their + peltries with the company. Bands of free trappers resort hither also, to + sell the furs they have collected; or to engage their services for the + next hunting season. + </p> + <p> + To this rendezvous the company sends annually a convoy of supplies from + its establishment on the Atlantic frontier, under the guidance of some + experienced partner or officer. On the arrival of this convoy, the + resident partner at the rendezvous depends to set all his next year’s + machinery in motion. + </p> + <p> + Now as the rival companies keep a vigilant eye upon each other, and are + anxious to discover each other’s plans and movements, they generally + contrive to hold their annual assemblages at no great distance apart. An + eager competition exists also between their respective convoys of + supplies, which shall first reach its place of rendezvous. For this + purpose, they set off with the first appearance of grass on the Atlantic + frontier and push with all diligence for the mountains. The company that + can first open its tempting supplies of coffee, tobacco, ammunition, + scarlet cloth, blankets, bright shawls, and glittering trinkets has the + greatest chance to get all the peltries and furs of the Indians and free + trappers, and to engage their services for the next season. It is able, + also, to fit out and dispatch its own trappers the soonest, so as to get + the start of its competitors, and to have the first dash into the hunting + and trapping grounds. + </p> + <p> + A new species of strategy has sprung out of this hunting and trapping + competition. The constant study of the rival bands is to forestall and + outwit each other; to supplant each other in the good will and custom of + the Indian tribes; to cross each other’s plans; to mislead each other as + to routes; in a word, next to his own advantage, the study of the Indian + trader is the disadvantage of his competitor. + </p> + <p> + The influx of this wandering trade has had its effects on the habits of + the mountain tribes. They have found the trapping of the beaver their most + profitable species of hunting; and the traffic with the white man has + opened to them sources of luxury of which they previously had no idea. The + introduction of firearms has rendered them more successful hunters, but at + the same time, more formidable foes; some of them, incorrigibly savage and + warlike in their nature, have found the expeditions of the fur traders + grand objects of profitable adventure. To waylay and harass a band of + trappers with their pack-horses, when embarrassed in the rugged defiles of + the mountains, has become as favorite an exploit with these Indians as the + plunder of a caravan to the Arab of the desert. The Crows and Blackfeet, + who were such terrors in the path of the early adventurers to Astoria, + still continue their predatory habits, but seem to have brought them to + greater system. They know the routes and resorts of the trappers; where to + waylay them on their journeys; where to find them in the hunting seasons, + and where to hover about them in winter quarters. The life of a trapper, + therefore, is a perpetual state militant, and he must sleep with his + weapons in his hands. + </p> + <p> + A new order of trappers and traders, also, has grown out of this system of + things. In the old times of the great Northwest Company, when the trade in + furs was pursued chiefly about the lakes and rivers, the expeditions were + carried on in batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs or boatmen were the rank + and file in the service of the trader, and even the hardy “men of the + north,” those great rufflers and game birds, were fain to be paddled from + point to point of their migrations. + </p> + <p> + A totally different class has now sprung up:—“the Mountaineers,” the + traders and trappers that scale the vast mountain chains, and pursue their + hazardous vocations amidst their wild recesses. They move from place to + place on horseback. The equestrian exercises, therefore, in which they are + engaged, the nature of the countries they traverse, vast plains and + mountains, pure and exhilarating in atmospheric qualities, seem to make + them physically and mentally a more lively and mercurial race than the fur + traders and trappers of former days, the self-vaunting “men of the north.” + A man who bestrides a horse must be essentially different from a man who + cowers in a canoe. We find them, accordingly, hardy, lithe, vigorous, and + active; extravagant in word, and thought, and deed; heedless of hardship; + daring of danger; prodigal of the present, and thoughtless of the future. + </p> + <p> + A difference is to be perceived even between these mountain hunters and + those of the lower regions along the waters of the Missouri. The latter, + generally French creoles, live comfortably in cabins and log-huts, well + sheltered from the inclemencies of the seasons. They are within the reach + of frequent supplies from the settlements; their life is comparatively + free from danger, and from most of the vicissitudes of the upper + wilderness. The consequence is that they are less hardy, self-dependent + and game-spirited than the mountaineer. If the latter by chance comes + among them on his way to and from the settlements, he is like a game-cock + among the common roosters of the poultry-yard. Accustomed to live in + tents, or to bivouac in the open air, he despises the comforts and is + impatient of the confinement of the log-house. If his meal is not ready in + season, he takes his rifle, hies to the forest or prairie, shoots his own + game, lights his fire, and cooks his repast. With his horse and his rifle, + he is independent of the world, and spurns at all its restraints. The very + superintendents at the lower posts will not put him to mess with the + common men, the hirelings of the establishment, but treat him as something + superior. + </p> + <p> + There is, perhaps, no class of men on the face of the earth, says Captain + Bonneville, who lead a life of more continued exertion, peril, and + excitement, and who are more enamored of their occupations, than the free + trappers of the West. No toil, no danger, no privation can turn the + trapper from his pursuit. His passionate excitement at times resembles a + mania. In vain may the most vigilant and cruel savages beset his path; in + vain may rocks and precipices and wintry torrents oppose his progress; let + but a single track of a beaver meet his eye, and he forgets all dangers + and defies all difficulties. At times, he may be seen with his traps on + his shoulder, buffeting his way across rapid streams, amidst floating + blocks of ice: at other times, he is to be found with his traps swung on + his back clambering the most rugged mountains, scaling or descending the + most frightful precipices, searching, by routes inaccessible to the horse, + and never before trodden by white man, for springs and lakes unknown to + his comrades, and where he may meet with his favorite game. Such is the + mountaineer, the hardy trapper of the West; and such, as we have slightly + sketched it, is the wild, Robin Hood kind of life, with all its strange + and motley populace, now existing in full vigor among the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + Having thus given the reader some idea of the actual state of the fur + trade in the interior of our vast continent, and made him acquainted with + the wild chivalry of the mountains, we will no longer delay the + introduction of Captain Bonneville and his band into this field of their + enterprise, but launch them at once upon the perilous plains of the Far + West. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 2. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure from—Fort Osage—Modes of transportation—Pack- + horses—Wagons—Walker and Cerre; their characters—Buoyant + feelings on launching upon the prairies—Wild equipments of + the trappers—Their gambols and antics—Difference of + character between the American and French trappers—Agency + of the Kansas—General—Clarke—White Plume, the Kansas + chief—Night scene in a trader’s camp—Colloquy between— + White Plume and the captain—Bee-hunters—Their + expeditions—Their feuds with the Indians—Bargaining talent + of White Plume +</pre> + <p> + IT WAS ON THE FIRST of May, 1832, that Captain Bonneville took his + departure from the frontier post of Fort Osage, on the Missouri. He had + enlisted a party of one hundred and ten men, most of whom had been in the + Indian country, and some of whom were experienced hunters and trappers. + Fort Osage, and other places on the borders of the western wilderness, + abound with characters of the kind, ready for any expedition. + </p> + <p> + The ordinary mode of transportation in these great inland expeditions of + the fur traders is on mules and pack-horses; but Captain Bonneville + substituted wagons. Though he was to travel through a trackless + wilderness, yet the greater part of his route would lie across open + plains, destitute of forests, and where wheel carriages can pass in every + direction. The chief difficulty occurs in passing the deep ravines cut + through the prairies by streams and winter torrents. Here it is often + necessary to dig a road down the banks, and to make bridges for the + wagons. + </p> + <p> + In transporting his baggage in vehicles of this kind, Captain Bonneville + thought he would save the great delay caused every morning by packing the + horses, and the labor of unpacking in the evening. Fewer horses also would + be required, and less risk incurred of their wandering away, or being + frightened or carried off by the Indians. The wagons, also, would be more + easily defended, and might form a kind of fortification in case of attack + in the open prairies. A train of twenty wagons, drawn by oxen, or by four + mules or horses each, and laden with merchandise, ammunition, and + provisions, were disposed in two columns in the center of the party, which + was equally divided into a van and a rear-guard. As sub-leaders or + lieutenants in his expedition, Captain Bonneville had made choice of Mr. + J. R. Walker and Mr. M. S. Cerre. The former was a native of Tennessee, + about six feet high, strong built, dark complexioned, brave in spirit, + though mild in manners. He had resided for many years in Missouri, on the + frontier; had been among the earliest adventurers to Santa Fe, where he + went to trap beaver, and was taken by the Spaniards. Being liberated, he + engaged with the Spaniards and Sioux Indians in a war against the Pawnees; + then returned to Missouri, and had acted by turns as sheriff, trader, + trapper, until he was enlisted as a leader by Captain Bonneville. + </p> + <p> + Cerre, his other leader, had likewise been in expeditions to Santa Fe, in + which he had endured much hardship. He was of the middle size, light + complexioned, and though but about twenty-five years of age, was + considered an experienced Indian trader. It was a great object with + Captain Bonneville to get to the mountains before the summer heats and + summer flies should render the travelling across the prairies distressing; + and before the annual assemblages of people connected with the fur trade + should have broken up, and dispersed to the hunting grounds. + </p> + <p> + The two rival associations already mentioned, the American Fur Company and + the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, had their several places of rendezvous for + the present year at no great distance apart, in Pierre’s Hole, a deep + valley in the heart of the mountains, and thither Captain Bonneville + intended to shape his course. + </p> + <p> + It is not easy to do justice to the exulting feelings of the worthy + captain at finding himself at the head of a stout band of hunters, + trappers, and woodmen; fairly launched on the broad prairies, with his + face to the boundless West. The tamest inhabitant of cities, the veriest + spoiled child of civilization, feels his heart dilate and his pulse beat + high on finding himself on horseback in the glorious wilderness; what then + must be the excitement of one whose imagination had been stimulated by a + residence on the frontier, and to whom the wilderness was a region of + romance! + </p> + <p> + His hardy followers partook of his excitement. Most of them had already + experienced the wild freedom of savage life, and looked forward to a + renewal of past scenes of adventure and exploit. Their very appearance and + equipment exhibited a piebald mixture, half civilized and half savage. + Many of them looked more like Indians than white men in their garbs and + accoutrements, and their very horses were caparisoned in barbaric style, + with fantastic trappings. The outset of a band of adventurers on one of + these expeditions is always animated and joyous. The welkin rang with + their shouts and yelps, after the manner of the savages; and with + boisterous jokes and light-hearted laughter. As they passed the straggling + hamlets and solitary cabins that fringe the skirts of the frontier, they + would startle their inmates by Indian yells and war-whoops, or regale them + with grotesque feats of horsemanship, well suited to their half-savage + appearance. Most of these abodes were inhabited by men who had themselves + been in similar expeditions; they welcomed the travellers, therefore, as + brother trappers, treated them with a hunter’s hospitality, and cheered + them with an honest God speed at parting. + </p> + <p> + And here we would remark a great difference, in point of character and + quality, between the two classes of trappers, the “American” and “French,” + as they are called in contradistinction. The latter is meant to designate + the French creole of Canada or Louisiana; the former, the trapper of the + old American stock, from Kentucky, Tennessee, and others of the western + States. The French trapper is represented as a lighter, softer, more + self-indulgent kind of man. He must have his Indian wife, his lodge, and + his petty conveniences. He is gay and thoughtless, takes little heed of + landmarks, depends upon his leaders and companions to think for the common + weal, and, if left to himself, is easily perplexed and lost. + </p> + <p> + The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for the service of + the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of a prairie, or in the heart of the + mountains, and he is never at a loss. He notices every landmark; can + retrace his route through the most monotonous plains, or the most + perplexed labyrinths of the mountains; no danger nor difficulty can appal + him, and he scorns to complain under any privation. In equipping the two + kinds of trappers, the Creole and Canadian are apt to prefer the light + fusee; the American always grasps his rifle; he despises what he calls the + “shot-gun.” We give these estimates on the authority of a trader of long + experience, and a foreigner by birth. “I consider one American,” said he, + “equal to three Canadians in point of sagacity, aptness at resources, + self-dependence, and fearlessness of spirit. In fact, no one can cope with + him as a stark tramper of the wilderness.” + </p> + <p> + Beside the two classes of trappers just mentioned, Captain Bonneville had + enlisted several Delaware Indians in his employ, on whose hunting + qualifications he placed great reliance. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of May the travellers passed the last border habitation, and + bade a long farewell to the ease and security of civilization. The buoyant + and clamorous spirits with which they had commenced their march gradually + subsided as they entered upon its difficulties. They found the prairies + saturated with the heavy cold rains, prevalent in certain seasons of the + year in this part of the country, the wagon wheels sank deep in the mire, + the horses were often to the fetlock, and both steed and rider were + completely jaded by the evening of the 12th, when they reached the Kansas + River; a fine stream about three hundred yards wide, entering the Missouri + from the south. Though fordable in almost every part at the end of summer + and during the autumn, yet it was necessary to construct a raft for the + transportation of the wagons and effects. All this was done in the course + of the following day, and by evening, the whole party arrived at the + agency of the Kansas tribe. This was under the superintendence of General + Clarke, brother of the celebrated traveller of the same name, who, with + Lewis, made the first expedition down the waters of the Columbia. He was + living like a patriarch, surrounded by laborers and interpreters, all + snugly housed, and provided with excellent farms. The functionary next in + consequence to the agent was the blacksmith, a most important, and, + indeed, indispensable personage in a frontier community. The Kansas + resemble the Osages in features, dress, and language; they raise corn and + hunt the buffalo, ranging the Kansas River, and its tributary streams; at + the time of the captain’s visit, they were at war with the Pawnees of the + Nebraska, or Platte River. + </p> + <p> + The unusual sight of a train of wagons caused quite a sensation among + these savages; who thronged about the caravan, examining everything + minutely, and asking a thousand questions: exhibiting a degree of + excitability, and a lively curiosity totally opposite to that apathy with + which their race is so often reproached. + </p> + <p> + The personage who most attracted the captain’s attention at this place was + “White Plume,” the Kansas chief, and they soon became good friends. White + Plume (we are pleased with his chivalrous soubriquet) inhabited a large + stone house, built for him by order of the American government: but the + establishment had not been carried out in corresponding style. It might be + palace without, but it was wigwam within; so that, between the stateliness + of his mansion and the squalidness of his furniture, the gallant White + Plume presented some such whimsical incongruity as we see in the gala + equipments of an Indian chief on a treaty-making embassy at Washington, + who has been generously decked out in cocked hat and military coat, in + contrast to his breech-clout and leathern legging; being grand officer at + top, and ragged Indian at bottom. + </p> + <p> + White Plume was so taken with the courtesy of the captain, and pleased + with one or two presents received from him, that he accompanied him a + day’s journey on his march, and passed a night in his camp, on the margin + of a small stream. The method of encamping generally observed by the + captain was as follows: The twenty wagons were disposed in a square, at + the distance of thirty-three feet from each other. In every interval there + was a mess stationed; and each mess had its fire, where the men cooked, + ate, gossiped, and slept. The horses were placed in the centre of the + square, with a guard stationed over them at night. + </p> + <p> + The horses were “side lined,” as it is termed: that is to say, the fore + and hind foot on the same side of the animal were tied together, so as to + be within eighteen inches of each other. A horse thus fettered is for a + time sadly embarrassed, but soon becomes sufficiently accustomed to the + restraint to move about slowly. It prevents his wandering; and his being + easily carried off at night by lurking Indians. When a horse that is “foot + free” is tied to one thus secured, the latter forms, as it were, a pivot, + round which the other runs and curvets, in case of alarm. The encampment + of which we are speaking presented a striking scene. The various + mess-fires were surrounded by picturesque groups, standing, sitting, and + reclining; some busied in cooking, others in cleaning their weapons: while + the frequent laugh told that the rough joke or merry story was going on. + In the middle of the camp, before the principal lodge, sat the two + chieftains, Captain Bonneville and White Plume, in soldier-like communion, + the captain delighted with the opportunity of meeting on social terms with + one of the red warriors of the wilderness, the unsophisticated children of + nature. The latter was squatted on his buffalo robe, his strong features + and red skin glaring in the broad light of a blazing fire, while he + recounted astounding tales of the bloody exploits of his tribe and himself + in their wars with the Pawnees; for there are no old soldiers more given + to long campaigning stories than Indian “braves.” + </p> + <p> + The feuds of White Plume, however, had not been confined to the red men; + he had much to say of brushes with bee hunters, a class of offenders for + whom he seemed to cherish a particular abhorrence. As the species of + hunting prosecuted by these worthies is not laid down in any of the + ancient books of venerie, and is, in fact, peculiar to our western + frontier, a word or two on the subject may not be unacceptable to the + reader. + </p> + <p> + The bee hunter is generally some settler on the verge of the prairies; a + long, lank fellow, of fever and ague complexion, acquired from living on + new soil, and in a hut built of green logs. In the autumn, when the + harvest is over, these; frontier settlers form parties of two or three, + and prepare for a bee hunt. Having provided themselves with a wagon, and a + number of empty casks, they sally off, armed with their rifles, into the + wilderness, directing their course east, west, north, or south, without + any regard to the ordinance of the American government, which strictly + forbids all trespass upon the lands belonging to the Indian tribes. + </p> + <p> + The belts of woodland that traverse the lower prairies and border the + rivers are peopled by innumerable swarms of wild bees, which make their + hives in hollow trees and fill them with honey tolled from the rich + flowers of the prairies. The bees, according to popular assertion, are + migrating like the settlers, to the west. An Indian trader, well + experienced in the country, informs us that within ten years that he has + passed in the Far West, the bee has advanced westward above a hundred + miles. It is said on the Missouri, that the wild turkey and the wild bee + go up the river together: neither is found in the upper regions. It is but + recently that the wild turkey has been killed on the Nebraska, or Platte; + and his travelling competitor, the wild bee, appeared there about the same + time. + </p> + <p> + Be all this as it may: the course of our party of bee hunters is to make a + wide circuit through the woody river bottoms, and the patches of forest on + the prairies, marking, as they go out, every tree in which they have + detected a hive. These marks are generally respected by any other bee + hunter that should come upon their track. When they have marked sufficient + to fill all their casks, they turn their faces homeward, cut down the + trees as they proceed, and having loaded their wagon with honey and wax, + return well pleased to the settlements. + </p> + <p> + Now it so happens that the Indians relish wild honey as highly as do the + white men, and are the more delighted with this natural luxury from its + having, in many instances, but recently made its appearance in their + lands. The consequence is numberless disputes and conflicts between them + and the bee hunters: and often a party of the latter, returning, laden + with rich spoil, from one of their forays, are apt to be waylaid by the + native lords of the soil; their honey to be seized, their harness cut to + pieces, and themselves left to find their way home the best way they can, + happy to escape with no greater personal harm than a sound rib-roasting. + </p> + <p> + Such were the marauders of whose offences the gallant White Plume made the + most bitter complaint. They were chiefly the settlers of the western part + of Missouri, who are the most famous bee hunters on the frontier, and + whose favorite hunting ground lies within the lands of the Kansas tribe. + According to the account of White Plume, however, matters were pretty + fairly balanced between him and the offenders; he having as often treated + them to a taste of the bitter, as they had robbed him of the sweets. + </p> + <p> + It is but justice to this gallant chief to say that he gave proofs of + having acquired some of the lights of civilization from his proximity to + the whites, as was evinced in his knowledge of driving a bargain. He + required hard cash in return for some corn with which he supplied the + worthy captain, and left the latter at a loss which most to admire, his + native chivalry as a brave, or his acquired adroitness as a trader. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 3. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Wide prairies Vegetable productions Tabular hills—Slabs of + sandstone Nebraska or Platte River—Scanty fare—Buffalo + skulls—Wagons turned into boats—Herds of buffalo—Cliffs + resembling castles—The chimney—Scott’s Bluffs Story + connected with them—The bighorn or ahsahta—Its nature and + habits—Difference between that and the “woolly sheep,” or + goat of the mountains +</pre> + <p> + FROM THE MIDDLE to the end of May, Captain Bonneville pursued a western + course over vast undulating plains, destitute of tree or shrub, rendered + miry by occasional rain, and cut up by deep water-courses where they had + to dig roads for their wagons down the soft crumbling banks and to throw + bridges across the streams. The weather had attained the summer heat; the + thermometer standing about fifty-seven degrees in the morning, early, but + rising to about ninety degrees at noon. The incessant breezes, however, + which sweep these vast plains render the heats endurable. Game was scanty, + and they had to eke out their scanty fare with wild roots and vegetables, + such as the Indian potato, the wild onion, and the prairie tomato, and + they met with quantities of “red root,” from which the hunters make a very + palatable beverage. The only human being that crossed their path was a + Kansas warrior, returning from some solitary expedition of bravado or + revenge, bearing a Pawnee scalp as a trophy. + </p> + <p> + The country gradually rose as they proceeded westward, and their route + took them over high ridges, commanding wide and beautiful prospects. The + vast plain was studded on the west with innumerable hills of conical + shape, such as are seen north of the Arkansas River. These hills have + their summits apparently cut off about the same elevation, so as to leave + flat surfaces at top. It is conjectured by some that the whole country may + originally have been of the altitude of these tabular hills; but through + some process of nature may have sunk to its present level; these insulated + eminences being protected by broad foundations of solid rock. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville mentions another geological phenomenon north of Red + River, where the surface of the earth, in considerable tracts of country, + is covered with broad slabs of sandstone, having the form and position of + grave-stones, and looking as if they had been forced up by some + subterranean agitation. “The resemblance,” says he, “which these very + remarkable spots have in many places to old church-yards is curious in the + extreme. One might almost fancy himself among the tombs of the + pre-Adamites.” + </p> + <p> + On the 2d of June, they arrived on the main stream of the Nebraska or + Platte River; twenty-five miles below the head of the Great Island. The + low banks of this river give it an appearance of great width. Captain + Bonneville measured it in one place, and found it twenty-two hundred yards + from bank to bank. Its depth was from three to six feet, the bottom full + of quicksands. The Nebraska is studded with islands covered with that + species of poplar called the cotton-wood tree. Keeping up along the course + of this river for several days, they were obliged, from the scarcity of + game, to put themselves upon short allowance, and, occasionally, to kill a + steer. They bore their daily labors and privations, however, with great + good humor, taking their tone, in all probability, from the buoyant spirit + of their leader. “If the weather was inclement,” said the captain, “we + watched the clouds, and hoped for a sight of the blue sky and the merry + sun. If food was scanty, we regaled ourselves with the hope of soon + falling in with herds of buffalo, and having nothing to do but slay and + eat.” We doubt whether the genial captain is not describing the cheeriness + of his own breast, which gave a cheery aspect to everything around him. + </p> + <p> + There certainly were evidences, however, that the country was not always + equally destitute of game. At one place, they observed a field decorated + with buffalo skulls, arranged in circles, curves, and other mathematical + figures, as if for some mystic rite or ceremony. They were almost + innumerable, and seemed to have been a vast hecatomb offered up in + thanksgiving to the Great Spirit for some signal success in the chase. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th of June, they came to the fork of the Nebraska, where it + divides itself into two equal and beautiful streams. One of these branches + rises in the west-southwest, near the headwaters of the Arkansas. Up the + course of this branch, as Captain Bonneville was well aware, lay the route + to the Camanche and Kioway Indians, and to the northern Mexican + settlements; of the other branch he knew nothing. Its sources might lie + among wild and inaccessible cliffs, and tumble and foam down rugged + defiles and over craggy precipices; but its direction was in the true + course, and up this stream he determined to prosecute his route to the + Rocky Mountains. Finding it impossible, from quicksands and other + dangerous impediments, to cross the river in this neighborhood, he kept up + along the south fork for two days, merely seeking a safe fording place. At + length he encamped, caused the bodies of the wagons to be dislodged from + the wheels, covered with buffalo hide, and besmeared with a compound of + tallow and ashes; thus forming rude boats. In these, they ferried their + effects across the stream, which was six hundred yards wide, with a swift + and strong current. Three men were in each boat, to manage it; others + waded across pushing the barks before them. Thus all crossed in safety. A + march of nine miles took them over high rolling prairies to the north + fork; their eyes being regaled with the welcome sight of herds of buffalo + at a distance, some careering the plain, others grazing and reposing in + the natural meadows. + </p> + <p> + Skirting along the north fork for a day or two, excessively annoyed by + musquitoes and buffalo gnats, they reached, in the evening of the 17th, a + small but beautiful grove, from which issued the confused notes of singing + birds, the first they had heard since crossing the boundary of Missouri. + After so many days of weary travelling through a naked, monotonous and + silent country, it was delightful once more to hear the song of the bird, + and to behold the verdure of the grove. It was a beautiful sunset, and a + sight of the glowing rays, mantling the tree-tops and rustling branches, + gladdened every heart. They pitched their camp in the grove, kindled their + fires, partook merrily of their rude fare, and resigned themselves to the + sweetest sleep they had enjoyed since their outset upon the prairies. + </p> + <p> + The country now became rugged and broken. High bluffs advanced upon the + river, and forced the travellers occasionally to leave its banks and wind + their course into the interior. In one of the wild and solitary passes + they were startled by the trail of four or five pedestrians, whom they + supposed to be spies from some predatory camp of either Arickara or Crow + Indians. This obliged them to redouble their vigilance at night, and to + keep especial watch upon their horses. In these rugged and elevated + regions they began to see the black-tailed deer, a species larger than the + ordinary kind, and chiefly found in rocky and mountainous countries. They + had reached also a great buffalo range; Captain Bonneville ascended a high + bluff, commanding an extensive view of the surrounding plains. As far as + his eye could reach, the country seemed absolutely blackened by + innumerable herds. No language, he says, could convey an adequate idea of + the vast living mass thus presented to his eye. He remarked that the bulls + and cows generally congregated in separate herds. + </p> + <p> + Opposite to the camp at this place was a singular phenomenon, which is + among the curiosities of the country. It is called the chimney. The lower + part is a conical mound, rising out of the naked plain; from the summit + shoots up a shaft or column, about one hundred and twenty feet in height, + from which it derives its name. The height of the whole, according to + Captain Bonneville, is a hundred and seventy-five yards. It is composed of + indurated clay, with alternate layers of red and white sandstone, and may + be seen at the distance of upward of thirty miles. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st, they encamped amidst high and beetling cliffs of indurated + clay and sandstone, bearing the semblance of towers, castles, churches, + and fortified cities. At a distance, it was scarcely possible to persuade + one’s self that the works of art were not mingled with these fantastic + freaks of nature. They have received the name of Scott’s Bluffs, from a + melancholy circumstance. A number of years since, a party were descending + the upper part of the river in canoes, when their frail barks were + overturned and all their powder spoiled. Their rifles being thus rendered + useless, they were unable to procure food by hunting and had to depend + upon roots and wild fruits for subsistence. After suffering extremely from + hunger, they arrived at Laramie’s Fork, a small tributary of the north + branch of the Nebraska, about sixty miles above the cliffs just mentioned. + Here one of the party, by the name of Scott, was taken ill; and his + companions came to a halt, until he should recover health and strength + sufficient to proceed. While they were searching round in quest of edible + roots, they discovered a fresh trail of white men, who had evidently but + recently preceded them. What was to be done? By a forced march they might + overtake this party, and thus be able to reach the settlements in safety. + Should they linger, they might all perish of famine and exhaustion. Scott, + however, was incapable of moving; they were too feeble to aid him forward, + and dreaded that such a clog would prevent their coming up with the + advance party. They determined, therefore, to abandon him to his fate. + Accordingly, under presence of seeking food, and such simples as might be + efficacious in his malady, they deserted him and hastened forward upon the + trail. They succeeded in overtaking the party of which they were in quest, + but concealed their faithless desertion of Scott; alleging that he had + died of disease. + </p> + <p> + On the ensuing summer, these very individuals visiting these parts in + company with others, came suddenly upon the bleached bones and grinning + skull of a human skeleton, which, by certain signs they recognized for the + remains of Scott. This was sixty long miles from the place where they had + abandoned him; and it appeared that the wretched man had crawled that + immense distance before death put an end to his miseries. The wild and + picturesque bluffs in the neighborhood of his lonely grave have ever since + borne his name. + </p> + <p> + Amidst this wild and striking scenery, Captain Bonneville, for the first + time, beheld flocks of the ahsahta or bighorn, an animal which frequents + these cliffs in great numbers. They accord with the nature of such + scenery, and add much to its romantic effect; bounding like goats from + crag to crag, often trooping along the lofty shelves of the mountains, + under the guidance of some venerable patriarch with horns twisted lower + than his muzzle, and sometimes peering over the edge of a precipice, so + high that they appear scarce bigger than crows; indeed, it seems a + pleasure to them to seek the most rugged and frightful situations, + doubtless from a feeling of security. + </p> + <p> + This animal is commonly called the mountain sheep, and is often confounded + with another animal, the “woolly sheep,” found more to the northward, + about the country of the Flatheads. The latter likewise inhabits cliffs in + summer, but descends into the valleys in the winter. It has white wool, + like a sheep, mingled with a thin growth of long hair; but it has short + legs, a deep belly, and a beard like a goat. Its horns are about five + inches long, slightly curved backwards, black as jet, and beautifully + polished. Its hoofs are of the same color. This animal is by no means so + active as the bighorn; it does not bound much, but sits a good deal upon + its haunches. It is not so plentiful either; rarely more than two or three + are seen at a time. Its wool alone gives a resemblance to the sheep; it is + more properly of the flesh is said to have a musty flavor; some have + thought the fleece might be valuable, as it is said to be as fine as that + of the goat Cashmere, but it is not to be procured in sufficient + quantities. + </p> + <p> + The ahsahta, argali, or bighorn, on the contrary, has short hair like a + deer, and resembles it in shape, but has the head and horns of a sheep, + and its flesh is said to be delicious mutton. The Indians consider it more + sweet and delicate than any other kind of venison. It abounds in the Rocky + Mountains, from the fiftieth degree of north latitude, quite down to + California; generally in the highest regions capable of vegetation; + sometimes it ventures into the valleys, but on the least alarm, regains + its favorite cliffs and precipices, where it is perilous, if not + impossible for the hunter to follow. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 4. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + An alarm—Crow—Indians—Their appearance—Mode of approach + —Their vengeful errand—Their curiosity—Hostility between + the Crows and Blackfeet—Loving conduct of the Crows— + Laramie’s Fork—First navigation of the—Nebraska—Great + elevation of the country—Rarity of the atmosphere—Its + effect on the wood-work of wagons—Black Hills—Their wild + and broken scenery—Indian dogs—Crow trophies—Sterile and + dreary country—Banks of the Sweet Water—Buffalo hunting— + Adventure of Tom Cain the Irish cook +</pre> + <p> + WHEN ON THE MARCH, Captain Bonneville always sent some of his best hunters + in the advance to reconnoitre the country, as well as to look out for + game. On the 24th of May, as the caravan was slowly journeying up the + banks of the Nebraska, the hunters came galloping back, waving their caps, + and giving the alarm cry, Indians! Indians! + </p> + <p> + The captain immediately ordered a halt: the hunters now came up and + announced that a large war-party of Crow Indians were just above, on the + river. The captain knew the character of these savages; one of the most + roving, warlike, crafty, and predatory tribes of the mountains; + horse-stealers of the first order, and easily provoked to acts of + sanguinary violence. Orders were accordingly given to prepare for action, + and every one promptly took the post that had been assigned him in the + general order of the march, in all cases of warlike emergency. + </p> + <p> + Everything being put in battle array, the captain took the lead of his + little band, and moved on slowly and warily. In a little while he beheld + the Crow warriors emerging from among the bluffs. There were about sixty + of them; fine martial-looking fellows, painted and arrayed for war, and + mounted on horses decked out with all kinds of wild trappings. They came + prancing along in gallant style, with many wild and dexterous evolutions, + for none can surpass them in horsemanship; and their bright colors, and + flaunting and fantastic embellishments, glaring and sparkling in the + morning sunshine, gave them really a striking appearance. + </p> + <p> + Their mode of approach, to one not acquainted with the tactics and + ceremonies of this rude chivalry of the wilderness, had an air of direct + hostility. They came galloping forward in a body, as if about to make a + furious charge, but, when close at hand, opened to the right and left, and + wheeled in wide circles round the travellers, whooping and yelling like + maniacs. + </p> + <p> + This done, their mock fury sank into a calm, and the chief, approaching + the captain, who had remained warily drawn up, though informed of the + pacific nature of the maneuver, extended to him the hand of friendship. + The pipe of peace was smoked, and now all was good fellowship. + </p> + <p> + The Crows were in pursuit of a band of Cheyennes, who had attacked their + village in the night and killed one of their people. They had already been + five and twenty days on the track of the marauders, and were determined + not to return home until they had sated their revenge. + </p> + <p> + A few days previously, some of their scouts, who were ranging the country + at a distance from the main body, had discovered the party of Captain + Bonneville. They had dogged it for a time in secret, astonished at the + long train of wagons and oxen, and especially struck with the sight of a + cow and calf, quietly following the caravan; supposing them to be some + kind of tame buffalo. Having satisfied their curiosity, they carried back + to their chief intelligence of all that they had seen. He had, in + consequence, diverged from his pursuit of vengeance to behold the wonders + described to him. “Now that we have met you,” said he to Captain + Bonneville, “and have seen these marvels with our own eyes, our hearts are + glad.” In fact, nothing could exceed the curiosity evinced by these people + as to the objects before them. Wagons had never been seen by them before, + and they examined them with the greatest minuteness; but the calf was the + peculiar object of their admiration. They watched it with intense interest + as it licked the hands accustomed to feed it, and were struck with the + mild expression of its countenance, and its perfect docility. + </p> + <p> + After much sage consultation, they at length determined that it must be + the “great medicine” of the white party; an appellation given by the + Indians to anything of supernatural and mysterious power that is guarded + as a talisman. They were completely thrown out in their conjecture, + however, by an offer of the white men to exchange the calf for a horse; + their estimation of the great medicine sank in an instant, and they + declined the bargain. + </p> + <p> + At the request of the Crow chieftain the two parties encamped together, + and passed the residue of the day in company. The captain was well pleased + with every opportunity to gain a knowledge of the “unsophisticated sons of + nature,” who had so long been objects of his poetic speculations; and + indeed this wild, horse-stealing tribe is one of the most notorious of the + mountains. The chief, of course, had his scalps to show and his battles to + recount. The Blackfoot is the hereditary enemy of the Crow, toward whom + hostility is like a cherished principle of religion; for every tribe, + besides its casual antagonists, has some enduring foe with whom there can + be no permanent reconciliation. The Crows and Blackfeet, upon the whole, + are enemies worthy of each other, being rogues and ruffians of the first + water. As their predatory excursions extend over the same regions, they + often come in contact with each other, and these casual conflicts serve to + keep their wits awake and their passions alive. + </p> + <p> + The present party of Crows, however, evinced nothing of the invidious + character for which they are renowned. During the day and night that they + were encamped in company with the travellers, their conduct was friendly + in the extreme. They were, in fact, quite irksome in their attentions, and + had a caressing manner at times quite importunate. It was not until after + separation on the following morning that the captain and his men + ascertained the secret of all this loving-kindness. In the course of their + fraternal caresses, the Crows had contrived to empty the pockets of their + white brothers; to abstract the very buttons from their coats, and, above + all, to make free with their hunting knives. + </p> + <p> + By equal altitudes of the sun, taken at this last encampment, Captain + Bonneville ascertained his latitude to be 41 47’ north. The thermometer, + at six o’clock in the morning, stood at fifty-nine degrees; at two + o’clock, P. M., at ninety-two degrees; and at six o’clock in the evening, + at seventy degrees. + </p> + <p> + The Black Hills, or Mountains, now began to be seen at a distance, + printing the horizon with their rugged and broken outlines; and + threatening to oppose a difficult barrier in the way of the travellers. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th of May, the travellers encamped at Laramie’s Fork, a clear and + beautiful stream, rising in the west-southwest, maintaining an average + width of twenty yards, and winding through broad meadows abounding in + currants and gooseberries, and adorned with groves and clumps of trees. + </p> + <p> + By an observation of Jupiter’s satellites, with a Dolland reflecting + telescope, Captain Bonneville ascertained the longitude to be 102 57’ west + of Greenwich. + </p> + <p> + We will here step ahead of our narrative to observe that about three years + after the time of which we are treating, Mr. Robert Campbell, formerly of + the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, descended the Platte from this fork, in + skin canoes, thus proving, what had always been discredited, that the + river was navigable. About the same time, he built a fort or trading post + at Laramie’s Fork, which he named Fort William, after his friend and + partner, Mr. William Sublette. Since that time, the Platte has become a + highway for the fur traders. + </p> + <p> + For some days past, Captain Bonneville had been made sensible of the great + elevation of country into which he was gradually ascending by the effect + of the dryness and rarefaction of the atmosphere upon his wagons. The + wood-work shrunk; the paint boxes of the wheels were continually working + out, and it was necessary to support the spokes by stout props to prevent + their falling asunder. The travellers were now entering one of those great + steppes of the Far West, where the prevalent aridity of the atmosphere + renders the country unfit for cultivation. In these regions there is a + fresh sweet growth of grass in the spring, but it is scanty and short, and + parches up in the course of the summer, so that there is none for the + hunters to set fire to in the autumn. It is a common observation that + “above the forks of the Platte the grass does not burn.” All attempts at + agriculture and gardening in the neighborhood of Fort William have been + attended with very little success. The grain and vegetables raised there + have been scanty in quantity and poor in quality. The great elevation of + these plains, and the dryness of the atmosphere, will tend to retain these + immense regions in a state of pristine wildness. + </p> + <p> + In the course of a day or two more, the travellers entered that wild and + broken tract of the Crow country called the Black Hills, and here their + journey became toilsome in the extreme. Rugged steeps and deep ravines + incessantly obstructed their progress, so that a great part of the day was + spent in the painful toil of digging through banks, filling up ravines, + forcing the wagons up the most forbidding ascents, or swinging them with + ropes down the face of dangerous precipices. The shoes of their horses + were worn out, and their feet injured by the rugged and stony roads. The + travellers were annoyed also by frequent but brief storms, which would + come hurrying over the hills, or through the mountain defiles, rage with + great fury for a short time, and then pass off, leaving everything calm + and serene again. + </p> + <p> + For several nights the camp had been infested by vagabond Indian dogs, + prowling about in quest of food. They were about the size of a large + pointer; with ears short and erect, and a long bushy tail—altogether, + they bore a striking resemblance to a wolf. These skulking visitors would + keep about the purlieus of the camp until daylight; when, on the first + stir of life among the sleepers, they would scamper off until they reached + some rising ground, where they would take their seats, and keep a sharp + and hungry watch upon every movement. The moment the travellers were + fairly on the march, and the camp was abandoned, these starving hangers-on + would hasten to the deserted fires, to seize upon the half-picked bones, + the offal and garbage that lay about; and, having made a hasty meal, with + many a snap and snarl and growl, would follow leisurely on the trail of + the caravan. Many attempts were made to coax or catch them, but in vain. + Their quick and suspicious eyes caught the slightest sinister movement, + and they turned and scampered off. At length one was taken. He was + terribly alarmed, and crouched and trembled as if expecting instant death. + Soothed, however, by caresses, he began after a time to gather confidence + and wag his tail, and at length was brought to follow close at the heels + of his captors, still, however, darting around furtive and suspicious + glances, and evincing a disposition to scamper off upon the least alarm. + </p> + <p> + On the first of July the band of Crow warriors again crossed their path. + They came in vaunting and vainglorious style; displaying five Cheyenne + scalps, the trophies of their vengeance. They were now bound homewards, to + appease the manes of their comrade by these proofs that his death had been + revenged, and intended to have scalp-dances and other triumphant + rejoicings. Captain Bonneville and his men, however, were by no means + disposed to renew their confiding intimacy with these crafty savages, and + above all, took care to avoid their pilfering caresses. They remarked one + precaution of the Crows with respect to their horses; to protect their + hoofs from the sharp and jagged rocks among which they had to pass, they + had covered them with shoes of buffalo hide. + </p> + <p> + The route of the travellers lay generally along the course of the Nebraska + or Platte, but occasionally, where steep promontories advanced to the + margin of the stream, they were obliged to make inland circuits. One of + these took them through a bold and stern country, bordered by a range of + low mountains, running east and west. Everything around bore traces of + some fearful convulsion of nature in times long past. Hitherto the various + strata of rock had exhibited a gentle elevation toward the southwest, but + here everything appeared to have been subverted, and thrown out of place. + In many places there were heavy beds of white sandstone resting upon red. + Immense strata of rocks jutted up into crags and cliffs; and sometimes + formed perpendicular walls and overhanging precipices. An air of sterility + prevailed over these savage wastes. The valleys were destitute of herbage, + and scantily clothed with a stunted species of wormwood, generally known + among traders and trappers by the name of sage. From an elevated point of + their march through this region, the travellers caught a beautiful view of + the Powder River Mountains away to the north, stretching along the very + verge of the horizon, and seeming, from the snow with which they were + mantled, to be a chain of small white clouds, connecting sky and earth. + </p> + <p> + Though the thermometer at mid-day ranged from eighty to ninety, and even + sometimes rose to ninety-three degrees, yet occasional spots of snow were + to be seen on the tops of the low mountains, among which the travellers + were journeying; proofs of the great elevation of the whole region. + </p> + <p> + The Nebraska, in its passage through the Black Hills, is confined to a + much narrower channel than that through which it flows in the plains + below; but it is deeper and clearer, and rushes with a stronger current. + The scenery, also, is more varied and beautiful. Sometimes it glides + rapidly but smoothly through a picturesque valley, between wooded banks; + then, forcing its way into the bosom of rugged mountains, it rushes + impetuously through narrow defiles, roaring and foaming down rocks and + rapids, until it is again soothed to rest in some peaceful valley. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of July, Captain Bonneville abandoned the main stream of the + Nebraska, which was continually shouldered by rugged promontories, and + making a bend to the southwest, for a couple of days, part of the time + over plains of loose sand, encamped on the 14th on the banks of the Sweet + Water, a stream about twenty yards in breadth, and four or five feet deep, + flowing between low banks over a sandy soil, and forming one of the forks + or upper branches of the Nebraska. Up this stream they now shaped their + course for several successive days, tending, generally, to the west. The + soil was light and sandy; the country much diversified. Frequently the + plains were studded with isolated blocks of rock, sometimes in the shape + of a half globe, and from three to four hundred feet high. These singular + masses had occasionally a very imposing, and even sublime appearance, + rising from the midst of a savage and lonely landscape. + </p> + <p> + As the travellers continued to advance, they became more and more sensible + of the elevation of the country. The hills around were more generally + capped with snow. The men complained of cramps and colics, sore lips and + mouths, and violent headaches. The wood-work of the wagons also shrank so + much that it was with difficulty the wheels were kept from falling to + pieces. The country bordering upon the river was frequently gashed with + deep ravines, or traversed by high bluffs, to avoid which, the travellers + were obliged to make wide circuits through the plains. In the course of + these, they came upon immense herds of buffalo, which kept scouring off in + the van, like a retreating army. + </p> + <p> + Among the motley retainers of the camp was Tom Cain, a raw Irishman, who + officiated as cook, whose various blunders and expedients in his novel + situation, and in the wild scenes and wild kind of life into which he had + suddenly been thrown, had made him a kind of butt or droll of the camp. + Tom, however, began to discover an ambition superior to his station; and + the conversation of the hunters, and their stories of their exploits, + inspired him with a desire to elevate himself to the dignity of their + order. The buffalo in such immense droves presented a tempting opportunity + for making his first essay. He rode, in the line of march, all prepared + for action: his powder-flask and shot-pouch knowingly slung at the pommel + of his saddle, to be at hand; his rifle balanced on his shoulder. While in + this plight, a troop of Buffalo came trotting by in great alarm. In an + instant, Tom sprang from his horse and gave chase on foot. Finding they + were leaving him behind, he levelled his rifle and pulled [the] trigger. + His shot produced no other effect than to increase the speed of the + buffalo, and to frighten his own horse, who took to his heels, and + scampered off with all the ammunition. Tom scampered after him, hallooing + with might and main, and the wild horse and wild Irishman soon disappeared + among the ravines of the prairie. Captain Bonneville, who was at the head + of the line, and had seen the transaction at a distance, detached a party + in pursuit of Tom. After a long interval they returned, leading the + frightened horse; but though they had scoured the country, and looked out + and shouted from every height, they had seen nothing of his rider. + </p> + <p> + As Captain Bonneville knew Tom’s utter awkwardness and inexperience, and + the dangers of a bewildered Irishman in the midst of a prairie, he halted + and encamped at an early hour, that there might be a regular hunt for him + in the morning. + </p> + <p> + At early dawn on the following day scouts were sent off in every + direction, while the main body, after breakfast, proceeded slowly on its + course. It was not until the middle of the afternoon that the hunters + returned, with honest Tom mounted behind one of them. They had found him + in a complete state of perplexity and amazement. His appearance caused + shouts of merriment in the camp,—but Tom for once could not join in + the mirth raised at his expense: he was completely chapfallen, and + apparently cured of the hunting mania for the rest of his life. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 5. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Magnificent scenery—Wind River—Mountains—Treasury of + waters—A stray horse—An Indian trail—Trout streams—The + Great Green River Valley—An alarm—A band of trappers— + Fontenelle, his information—Sufferings of thirst— + Encampment on the Seedskedee—Strategy of rival traders— + Fortification of the camp—The—Blackfeet—Banditti of the + mountains—Their character and habits +</pre> + <p> + IT WAS ON THE 20TH of July that Captain Bonneville first came in sight of + the grand region of his hopes and anticipations, the Rocky Mountains. He + had been making a bend to the south, to avoid some obstacles along the + river, and had attained a high, rocky ridge, when a magnificent prospect + burst upon his sight. To the west rose the Wind River Mountains, with + their bleached and snowy summits towering into the clouds. These stretched + far to the north-northwest, until they melted away into what appeared to + be faint clouds, but which the experienced eyes of the veteran hunters of + the party recognized for the rugged mountains of the Yellowstone; at the + feet of which extended the wild Crow country: a perilous, though + profitable region for the trapper. + </p> + <p> + To the southwest, the eye ranged over an immense extent of wilderness, + with what appeared to be a snowy vapor resting upon its horizon. This, + however, was pointed out as another branch of the Great Chippewyan, or + Rocky chain; being the Eutaw Mountains, at whose basis the wandering tribe + of hunters of the same name pitch their tents. We can imagine the + enthusiasm of the worthy captain when he beheld the vast and mountainous + scene of his adventurous enterprise thus suddenly unveiled before him. We + can imagine with what feelings of awe and admiration he must have + contemplated the Wind River Sierra, or bed of mountains; that great + fountainhead from whose springs, and lakes, and melted snows some of those + mighty rivers take their rise, which wander over hundreds of miles of + varied country and clime, and find their way to the opposite waves of the + Atlantic and the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + The Wind River Mountains are, in fact, among the most remarkable of the + whole Rocky chain; and would appear to be among the loftiest. They form, + as it were, a great bed of mountains, about eighty miles in length, and + from twenty to thirty in breadth; with rugged peaks, covered with eternal + snows, and deep, narrow valleys full of springs, and brooks, and + rock-bound lakes. From this great treasury of waters issue forth limpid + streams, which, augmenting as they descend, become main tributaries of the + Missouri on the one side, and the Columbia on the other; and give rise to + the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, the great Colorado of the West, + that empties its current into the Gulf of California. + </p> + <p> + The Wind River Mountains are notorious in hunters’ and trappers’ stories: + their rugged defiles, and the rough tracts about their neighborhood, + having been lurking places for the predatory hordes of the mountains, and + scenes of rough encounter with Crows and Blackfeet. It was to the west of + these mountains, in the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, + that Captain Bonneville intended to make a halt for the purpose of giving + repose to his people and his horses after their weary journeying; and of + collecting information as to his future course. This Green River valley, + and its immediate neighborhood, as we have already observed, formed the + main point of rendezvous, for the present year, of the rival fur + companies, and the motley populace, civilized and savage, connected with + them. Several days of rugged travel, however, yet remained for the captain + and his men before they should encamp in this desired resting-place. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st of July, as they were pursuing their course through one of the + meadows of the Sweet Water, they beheld a horse grazing at a little + distance. He showed no alarm at their approach, but suffered himself + quietly to be taken, evincing a perfect state of tameness. The scouts of + the party were instantly on the look-out for the owners of this animal; + lest some dangerous band of savages might be lurking in the vicinity. + After a narrow search, they discovered the trail of an Indian party, which + had evidently passed through that neighborhood but recently. The horse was + accordingly taken possession of, as an estray; but a more vigilant watch + than usual was kept round the camp at nights, lest his former owners + should be upon the prowl. + </p> + <p> + The travellers had now attained so high an elevation that on the 23d of + July, at daybreak, there was considerable ice in the waterbuckets, and the + thermometer stood at twenty-two degrees. The rarefy of the atmosphere + continued to affect the wood-work of the wagons, and the wheels were + incessantly falling to pieces. A remedy was at length devised. The tire of + each wheel was taken off; a band of wood was nailed round the exterior of + the felloes, the tire was then made red hot, replaced round the wheel, and + suddenly cooled with water. By this means, the whole was bound together + with great compactness. + </p> + <p> + The extreme elevation of these great steppes, which range along the feet + of the Rocky Mountains, takes away from the seeming height of their peaks, + which yield to few in the known world in point of altitude above the level + of the sea. + </p> + <p> + On the 24th, the travellers took final leave of the Sweet Water, and + keeping westwardly, over a low and very rocky ridge, one of the most + southern spurs of the Wind River Mountains, they encamped, after a march + of seven hours and a half, on the banks of a small clear stream, running + to the south, in which they caught a number of fine trout. + </p> + <p> + The sight of these fish was hailed with pleasure, as a sign that they had + reached the waters which flow into the Pacific; for it is only on the + western streams of the Rocky Mountains that trout are to be taken. The + stream on which they had thus encamped proved, in effect, to be tributary + to the Seeds-ke-dee Agie, or Green River, into which it flowed at some + distance to the south. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville now considered himself as having fairly passed the + crest of the Rocky Mountains; and felt some degree of exultation in being + the first individual that had crossed, north of the settled provinces of + Mexico, from the waters of the Atlantic to those of the Pacific, with + wagons. Mr. William Sublette, the enterprising leader of the Rocky + Mountain Fur Company, had, two or three years previously, reached the + valley of the Wind River, which lies on the northeast of the mountains; + but had proceeded with them no further. + </p> + <p> + A vast valley now spread itself before the travellers, bounded on one side + by the Wind River Mountains, and to the west, by a long range of high + hills. This, Captain Bonneville was assured by a veteran hunter in his + company, was the great valley of the Seedske-dee; and the same informant + would have fain persuaded him that a small stream, three feet deep, which + he came to on the 25th, was that river. The captain was convinced, + however, that the stream was too insignificant to drain so wide a valley + and the adjacent mountains: he encamped, therefore, at an early hour, on + its borders, that he might take the whole of the next day to reach the + main river; which he presumed to flow between him and the distant range of + western hills. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th of July, he commenced his march at an early hour, making + directly across the valley, toward the hills in the west; proceeding at as + brisk a rate as the jaded condition of his horses would permit. About + eleven o’clock in the morning, a great cloud of dust was descried in the + rear, advancing directly on the trail of the party. The alarm was given; + they all came to a halt, and held a council of war. Some conjectured that + the band of Indians, whose trail they had discovered in the neighborhood + of the stray horse, had been lying in wait for them in some secret + fastness of the mountains; and were about to attack them on the open + plain, where they would have no shelter. Preparations were immediately + made for defence; and a scouting party sent off to reconnoitre. They soon + came galloping back, making signals that all was well. The cloud of dust + was made by a band of fifty or sixty mounted trappers, belonging to the + American Fur Company, who soon came up, leading their pack-horses. They + were headed by Mr. Fontenelle, an experienced leader, or “partisan,” as a + chief of a party is called in the technical language of the trappers. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Fontenelle informed Captain Bonneville that he was on his way from the + company’s trading post on the Yellowstone to the yearly rendezvous, with + reinforcements and supplies for their hunting and trading parties beyond + the mountains; and that he expected to meet, by appointment, with a band + of free trappers in that very neighborhood. He had fallen upon the trail + of Captain Bonneville’s party, just after leaving the Nebraska; and, + finding that they had frightened off all the game, had been obliged to + push on, by forced marches, to avoid famine: both men and horses were, + therefore, much travel-worn; but this was no place to halt; the plain + before them he said was destitute of grass and water, neither of which + would be met with short of the Green River, which was yet at a + considerable distance. He hoped, he added, as his party were all on + horseback, to reach the river, with hard travelling, by nightfall: but he + doubted the possibility of Captain Bonneville’s arrival there with his + wagons before the day following. Having imparted this information, he + pushed forward with all speed. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville followed on as fast as circumstances would permit. The + ground was firm and gravelly; but the horses were too much fatigued to + move rapidly. After a long and harassing day’s march, without pausing for + a noontide meal, they were compelled, at nine o’clock at night, to encamp + in an open plain, destitute of water or pasturage. On the following + morning, the horses were turned loose at the peep of day; to slake their + thirst, if possible, from the dew collected on the sparse grass, here and + there springing up among dry sand-banks. The soil of a great part of this + Green River valley is a whitish clay, into which the rain cannot + penetrate, but which dries and cracks with the sun. In some places it + produces a salt weed, and grass along the margins of the streams; but the + wider expanses of it are desolate and barren. It was not until noon that + Captain Bonneville reached the banks of the Seeds-ke-dee, or Colorado of + the West; in the meantime, the sufferings of both men and horses had been + excessive, and it was with almost frantic eagerness that they hurried to + allay their burning thirst in the limpid current of the river. + </p> + <p> + Fontenelle and his party had not fared much better; the chief part had + managed to reach the river by nightfall, but were nearly knocked up by the + exertion; the horses of others sank under them, and they were obliged to + pass the night upon the road. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning, July 27th, Fontenelle moved his camp across the + river; while Captain Bonneville proceeded some little distance below, + where there was a small but fresh meadow yielding abundant pasturage. Here + the poor jaded horses were turned out to graze, and take their rest: the + weary journey up the mountains had worn them down in flesh and spirit; but + this last march across the thirsty plain had nearly finished them. + </p> + <p> + The captain had here the first taste of the boasted strategy of the fur + trade. During his brief, but social encampment, in company with + Fontenelle, that experienced trapper had managed to win over a number of + Delaware Indians whom the captain had brought with him, by offering them + four hundred dollars each for the ensuing autumnal hunt. The captain was + somewhat astonished when he saw these hunters, on whose services he had + calculated securely, suddenly pack up their traps, and go over to the + rival camp. That he might in some measure, however, be even with his + competitor, he dispatched two scouts to look out for the band of free + trappers who were to meet Fontenelle in this neighborhood, and to endeavor + to bring them to his camp. + </p> + <p> + As it would be necessary to remain some time in this neighborhood, that + both men and horses might repose, and recruit their strength; and as it + was a region full of danger, Captain Bonneville proceeded to fortify his + camp with breastworks of logs and pickets. + </p> + <p> + These precautions were, at that time, peculiarly necessary, from the bands + of Blackfeet Indians which were roving about the neighborhood. These + savages are the most dangerous banditti of the mountains, and the + inveterate foe of the trappers. They are Ishmaelites of the first order, + always with weapon in hand, ready for action. The young braves of the + tribe, who are destitute of property, go to war for booty; to gain horses, + and acquire the means of setting up a lodge, supporting a family, and + entitling themselves to a seat in the public councils. The veteran + warriors fight merely for the love of the thing, and the consequence which + success gives them among their people. + </p> + <p> + They are capital horsemen, and are generally well mounted on short, stout + horses, similar to the prairie ponies to be met with at St. Louis. When on + a war party, however, they go on foot, to enable them to skulk through the + country with greater secrecy; to keep in thickets and ravines, and use + more adroit subterfuges and stratagems. Their mode of warfare is entirely + by ambush, surprise, and sudden assaults in the night time. If they + succeed in causing a panic, they dash forward with headlong fury: if the + enemy is on the alert, and shows no signs of fear, they become wary and + deliberate in their movements. + </p> + <p> + Some of them are armed in the primitive style, with bows and arrows; the + greater part have American fusees, made after the fashion of those of the + Hudson’s Bay Company. These they procure at the trading post of the + American Fur Company, on Marias River, where they traffic their peltries + for arms, ammunition, clothing, and trinkets. They are extremely fond of + spirituous liquors and tobacco; for which nuisances they are ready to + exchange not merely their guns and horses, but even their wives and + daughters. As they are a treacherous race, and have cherished a lurking + hostility to the whites ever since one of their tribe was killed by Mr. + Lewis, the associate of General Clarke, in his exploring expedition across + the Rocky Mountains, the American Fur Company is obliged constantly to + keep at that post a garrison of sixty or seventy men. + </p> + <p> + Under the general name of Blackfeet are comprehended several tribes: such + as the Surcies, the Peagans, the Blood Indians, and the Gros Ventres of + the Prairies: who roam about the southern branches of the Yellowstone and + Missouri Rivers, together with some other tribes further north. + </p> + <p> + The bands infesting the Wind River Mountains and the country adjacent at + the time of which we are treating, were Gros Ventres of the Prairies, + which are not to be confounded with Gros Ventres of the Missouri, who keep + about the lower part of that river, and are friendly to the white men. + </p> + <p> + This hostile band keeps about the headwaters of the Missouri, and numbers + about nine hundred fighting men. Once in the course of two or three years + they abandon their usual abodes, and make a visit to the Arapahoes of the + Arkansas. Their route lies either through the Crow country, and the Black + Hills, or through the lands of the Nez Perces, Flatheads, Bannacks, and + Shoshonies. As they enjoy their favorite state of hostility with all these + tribes, their expeditions are prone to be conducted in the most lawless + and predatory style; nor do they hesitate to extend their maraudings to + any party of white men they meet with; following their trails; hovering + about their camps; waylaying and dogging the caravans of the free traders, + and murdering the solitary trapper. The consequences are frequent and + desperate fights between them and the “mountaineers,” in the wild defiles + and fastnesses of the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + The band in question was, at this time, on their way homeward from one of + their customary visits to the Arapahoes; and in the ensuing chapter we + shall treat of some bloody encounters between them and the trappers, which + had taken place just before the arrival of Captain Bonneville among the + mountains. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 6. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Sublette and his band—Robert—Campbell—Mr. Wyeth and a + band of “down-easters”—Yankee enterprise—Fitzpatrick—His + adventure with the Blackfeet—A rendezvous of mountaineers— + The battle of—Pierre’s Hole—An Indian ambuscade— + Sublette’s return +</pre> + <p> + LEAVING CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his band ensconced within their fortified + camp in the Green River valley, we shall step back and accompany a party + of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company in its progress, with supplies from St. + Louis, to the annual rendezvous at Pierre’s Hole. This party consisted of + sixty men, well mounted, and conducting a line of packhorses. They were + commanded by Captain William Sublette, a partner in the company, and one + of the most active, intrepid, and renowned leaders in this half military + kind of service. He was accompanied by his associate in business, and + tried companion in danger, Mr. Robert Campbell, one of the pioneers of the + trade beyond the mountains, who had commanded trapping parties there in + times of the greatest peril. + </p> + <p> + As these worthy compeers were on their route to the frontier, they fell in + with another expedition, likewise on its way to the mountains. This was a + party of regular “down-easters,” that is to say, people of New England, + who, with the all-penetrating and all-pervading spirit of their race, were + now pushing their way into a new field of enterprise with which they were + totally unacquainted. The party had been fitted out and was maintained and + commanded by Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, of Boston. This gentleman had + conceived an idea that a profitable fishery for salmon might be + established on the Columbia River, and connected with the fur trade. He + had, accordingly, invested capital in goods, calculated, as he supposed, + for the Indian trade, and had enlisted a number of eastern men in his + employ, who had never been in the Far West, nor knew anything of the + wilderness. With these, he was bravely steering his way across the + continent, undismayed by danger, difficulty, or distance, in the same way + that a New England coaster and his neighbors will coolly launch forth on a + voyage to the Black Sea, or a whaling cruise to the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + With all their national aptitude at expedient and resource, Wyeth and his + men felt themselves completely at a loss when they reached the frontier, + and found that the wilderness required experience and habitudes of which + they were totally deficient. Not one of the party, excepting the leader, + had ever seen an Indian or handled a rifle; they were without guide or + interpreter, and totally unacquainted with “wood craft” and the modes of + making their way among savage hordes, and subsisting themselves during + long marches over wild mountains and barren plains. + </p> + <p> + In this predicament, Captain Sublette found them, in a manner becalmed, or + rather run aground, at the little frontier town of Independence, in + Missouri, and kindly took them in tow. The two parties travelled amicably + together; the frontier men of Sublette’s party gave their Yankee comrades + some lessons in hunting, and some insight into the art and mystery of + dealing with the Indians, and they all arrived without accident at the + upper branches of the Nebraska or Platte River. + </p> + <p> + In the course of their march, Mr. Fitzpatrick, the partner of the company + who was resident at that time beyond the mountains, came down from the + rendezvous at Pierre’s Hole to meet them and hurry them forward. He + travelled in company with them until they reached the Sweet Water; then + taking a couple of horses, one for the saddle, and the other as a + pack-horse, he started off express for Pierre’s Hole, to make arrangements + against their arrival, that he might commence his hunting campaign before + the rival company. + </p> + <p> + Fitzpatrick was a hardy and experienced mountaineer, and knew all the + passes and defiles. As he was pursuing his lonely course up the Green + River valley, he described several horsemen at a distance, and came to a + halt to reconnoitre. He supposed them to be some detachment from the + rendezvous, or a party of friendly Indians. They perceived him, and + setting up the war-whoop, dashed forward at full speed: he saw at once his + mistake and his peril—they were Blackfeet. Springing upon his + fleetest horse, and abandoning the other to the enemy, he made for the + mountains, and succeeded in escaping up one of the most dangerous defiles. + Here he concealed himself until he thought the Indians had gone off, when + he returned into the valley. He was again pursued, lost his remaining + horse, and only escaped by scrambling up among the cliffs. For several + days he remained lurking among rocks and precipices, and almost famished, + having but one remaining charge in his rifle, which he kept for + self-defence. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, Sublette and Campbell, with their fellow traveller, + Wyeth, had pursued their march unmolested, and arrived in the Green River + valley, totally unconscious that there was any lurking enemy at hand. They + had encamped one night on the banks of a small stream, which came down + from the Wind River Mountains, when about midnight, a band of Indians + burst upon their camp, with horrible yells and whoops, and a discharge of + guns and arrows. Happily no other harm was done than wounding one mule, + and causing several horses to break loose from their pickets. The camp was + instantly in arms; but the Indians retreated with yells of exultation, + carrying off several of the horses under cover of the night. + </p> + <p> + This was somewhat of a disagreeable foretaste of mountain life to some of + Wyeth’s band, accustomed only to the regular and peaceful life of New + England; nor was it altogether to the taste of Captain Sublette’s men, who + were chiefly creoles and townsmen from St. Louis. They continued their + march the next morning, keeping scouts ahead and upon their flanks, and + arrived without further molestation at Pierre’s Hole. + </p> + <p> + The first inquiry of Captain Sublette, on reaching the rendezvous, was for + Fitzpatrick. He had not arrived, nor had any intelligence been received + concerning him. Great uneasiness was now entertained, lest he should have + fallen into the hands of the Blackfeet who had made the midnight attack + upon the camp. It was a matter of general joy, therefore, when he made his + appearance, conducted by two half-breed Iroquois hunters. He had lurked + for several days among the mountains, until almost starved; at length he + escaped the vigilance of his enemies in the night, and was so fortunate as + to meet the two Iroquois hunters, who, being on horseback, conveyed him + without further difficulty to the rendezvous. He arrived there so + emaciated that he could scarcely be recognized. + </p> + <p> + The valley called Pierre’s Hole is about thirty miles in length and + fifteen in width, bounded to the west and south by low and broken ridges, + and overlooked to the east by three lofty mountains, called the three + Tetons, which domineer as landmarks over a vast extent of country. + </p> + <p> + A fine stream, fed by rivulets and mountain springs, pours through the + valley toward the north, dividing it into nearly equal parts. The meadows + on its borders are broad and extensive, covered with willow and + cotton-wood trees, so closely interlocked and matted together as to be + nearly impassable. + </p> + <p> + In this valley was congregated the motley populace connected with the fur + trade. Here the two rival companies had their encampments, with their + retainers of all kinds: traders, trappers, hunters, and half-breeds, + assembled from all quarters, awaiting their yearly supplies, and their + orders to start off in new directions. Here, also, the savage tribes + connected with the trade, the Nez Perces or Chopunnish Indians, and + Flatheads, had pitched their lodges beside the streams, and with their + squaws, awaited the distribution of goods and finery. There was, moreover, + a band of fifteen free trappers, commanded by a gallant leader from + Arkansas, named Sinclair, who held their encampment a little apart from + the rest. Such was the wild and heterogeneous assemblage, amounting to + several hundred men, civilized and savage, distributed in tents and lodges + in the several camps. + </p> + <p> + The arrival of Captain Sublette with supplies put the Rocky Mountain Fur + Company in full activity. The wares and merchandise were quickly opened, + and as quickly disposed of to trappers and Indians; the usual excitement + and revelry took place, after which all hands began to disperse to their + several destinations. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th of July, a small brigade of fourteen trappers, led by Milton + Sublette, brother of the captain, set out with the intention of proceeding + to the southwest. They were accompanied by Sinclair and his fifteen free + trappers; Wyeth, also, and his New England band of beaver hunters and + salmon fishers, now dwindled down to eleven, took this opportunity to + prosecute their cruise in the wilderness, accompanied with such + experienced pilots. On the first day, they proceeded about eight miles to + the southeast, and encamped for the night, still in the valley of Pierre’s + Hole. On the following morning, just as they were raising their camp, they + observed a long line of people pouring down a defile of the mountains. + They at first supposed them to be Fontenelle and his party, whose arrival + had been daily expected. Wyeth, however, reconnoitred them with a + spy-glass, and soon perceived they were Indians. They were divided into + two parties, forming, in the whole, about one hundred and fifty persons, + men, women, and children. Some were on horseback, fantastically painted + and arrayed, with scarlet blankets fluttering in the wind. The greater + part, however, were on foot. They had perceived the trappers before they + were themselves discovered, and came down yelling and whooping into the + plain. On nearer approach, they were ascertained to be Blackfeet. + </p> + <p> + One of the trappers of Sublette’s brigade, a half-breed named Antoine + Godin, now mounted his horse, and rode forth as if to hold a conference. + He was the son of an Iroquois hunter, who had been cruelly murdered by the + Blackfeet at a small stream below the mountains, which still bears his + name. In company with Antoine rode forth a Flathead Indian, whose once + powerful tribe had been completely broken down in their wars with the + Blackfeet. Both of them, therefore, cherished the most vengeful hostility + against these marauders of the mountains. The Blackfeet came to a halt. + One of the chiefs advanced singly and unarmed, bearing the pipe of peace. + This overture was certainly pacific; but Antoine and the Flathead were + predisposed to hostility, and pretended to consider it a treacherous + movement. + </p> + <p> + “Is your piece charged?” said Antoine to his red companion. + </p> + <p> + “It is.” + </p> + <p> + “Then cock it, and follow me.” + </p> + <p> + They met the Blackfoot chief half way, who extended his hand in + friendship. Antoine grasped it. + </p> + <p> + “Fire!” cried he. + </p> + <p> + The Flathead levelled his piece, and brought the Blackfoot to the ground. + Antoine snatched off his scarlet blanket, which was richly ornamented, and + galloped off with it as a trophy to the camp, the bullets of the enemy + whistling after him. The Indians immediately threw themselves into the + edge of a swamp, among willows and cotton-wood trees, interwoven with + vines. Here they began to fortify themselves; the women digging a trench, + and throwing up a breastwork of logs and branches, deep hid in the bosom + of the wood, while the warriors skirmished at the edge to keep the + trappers at bay. + </p> + <p> + The latter took their station in a ravine in front, whence they kept up a + scattering fire. As to Wyeth, and his little band of “downeasters,” they + were perfectly astounded by this second specimen of life in the + wilderness; the men, being especially unused to bushfighting and the use + of the rifle, were at a loss how to proceed. Wyeth, however, acted as a + skilful commander. He got all his horses into camp and secured them; then, + making a breastwork of his packs of goods, he charged his men to remain in + garrison, and not to stir out of their fort. For himself, he mingled with + the other leaders, determined to take his share in the conflict. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, an express had been sent off to the rendezvous for + reinforcements. Captain Sublette, and his associate, Campbell, were at + their camp when the express came galloping across the plain, waving his + cap, and giving the alarm; “Blackfeet! Blackfeet! a fight in the upper + part of the valley!—to arms! to arms!” + </p> + <p> + The alarm was passed from camp to camp. It was a common cause. Every one + turned out with horse and rifle. The Nez Perces and Flatheads joined. As + fast as horseman could arm and mount he galloped off; the valley was soon + alive with white men and red men scouring at full speed. + </p> + <p> + Sublette ordered his men to keep to the camp, being recruits from St. + Louis, and unused to Indian warfare. He and his friend Campbell prepared + for action. Throwing off their coats, rolling up their sleeves, and arming + themselves with pistols and rifles, they mounted their horses and dashed + forward among the first. As they rode along, they made their wills in + soldier-like style; each stating how his effects should be disposed of in + case of his death, and appointing the other his executor. + </p> + <p> + The Blackfeet warriors had supposed the brigade of Milton Sublette all the + foes they had to deal with, and were astonished to behold the whole valley + suddenly swarming with horsemen, galloping to the field of action. They + withdrew into their fort, which was completely hid from sight in the dark + and tangled wood. Most of their women and children had retreated to the + mountains. The trappers now sallied forth and approached the swamp, firing + into the thickets at random; the Blackfeet had a better sight at their + adversaries, who were in the open field, and a half-breed was wounded in + the shoulder. + </p> + <p> + When Captain Sublette arrived, he urged to penetrate the swamp and storm + the fort, but all hung back in awe of the dismal horrors of the place, and + the danger of attacking such desperadoes in their savage den. The very + Indian allies, though accustomed to bushfighting, regarded it as almost + impenetrable, and full of frightful danger. Sublette was not to be turned + from his purpose, but offered to lead the way into the swamp. Campbell + stepped forward to accompany him. Before entering the perilous wood, + Sublette took his brothers aside, and told them that in case he fell, + Campbell, who knew his will, was to be his executor. This done, he grasped + his rifle and pushed into the thickets, followed by Campbell. Sinclair, + the partisan from Arkansas, was at the edge of the wood with his brother + and a few of his men. Excited by the gallant example of the two friends, + he pressed forward to share their dangers. + </p> + <p> + The swamp was produced by the labors of the beaver, which, by damming up a + stream, had inundated a portion of the valley. The place was all overgrown + with woods and thickets, so closely matted and entangled that it was + impossible to see ten paces ahead, and the three associates in peril had + to crawl along, one after another, making their way by putting the + branches and vines aside; but doing it with caution, lest they should + attract the eye of some lurking marksman. They took the lead by turns, + each advancing about twenty yards at a time, and now and then hallooing to + their men to follow. Some of the latter gradually entered the swamp, and + followed a little distance in their rear. + </p> + <p> + They had now reached a more open part of the wood, and had glimpses of the + rude fortress from between the trees. It was a mere breastwork, as we have + said, of logs and branches, with blankets, buffalo robes, and the leathern + covers of lodges, extended round the top as a screen. The movements of the + leaders, as they groped their way, had been descried by the sharp-sighted + enemy. As Sinclair, who was in the advance, was putting some branches + aside, he was shot through the body. He fell on the spot. “Take me to my + brother,” said he to Campbell. The latter gave him in charge to some of + the men, who conveyed him out of the swamp. + </p> + <p> + Sublette now took the advance. As he was reconnoitring the fort, he + perceived an Indian peeping through an aperture. In an instant his rifle + was levelled and discharged, and the ball struck the savage in the eye. + While he was reloading, he called to Campbell, and pointed out to him the + hole; “Watch that place,” said he, “and you will soon have a fair chance + for a shot.” Scarce had he uttered the words, when a ball struck him in + the shoulder, and almost wheeled him around. His first thought was to take + hold of his arm with his other hand, and move it up and down. He + ascertained, to his satisfaction, that the bone was not broken. The next + moment he was so faint that he could not stand. Campbell took him in his + arms and carried him out of the thicket. The same shot that struck + Sublette wounded another man in the head. + </p> + <p> + A brisk fire was now opened by the mountaineers from the wood, answered + occasionally from the fort. Unluckily, the trappers and their allies, in + searching for the fort, had got scattered, so that Wyeth, and a number of + Nez Perces, approached the fort on the northwest side, while others did + the same on the opposite quarter. A cross-fire thus took place, which + occasionally did mischief to friends as well as foes. An Indian was shot + down, close to Wyeth, by a ball which, he was convinced, had been sped + from the rifle of a trapper on the other side of the fort. + </p> + <p> + The number of whites and their Indian allies had by this time so much + increased by arrivals from the rendezvous, that the Blackfeet were + completely overmatched. They kept doggedly in their fort, however, making + no offer of surrender. An occasional firing into the breastwork was kept + up during the day. Now and then, one of the Indian allies, in bravado, + would rush up to the fort, fire over the ramparts, tear off a buffalo robe + or a scarlet blanket, and return with it in triumph to his comrades. Most + of the savage garrison that fell, however, were killed in the first part + of the attack. + </p> + <p> + At one time it was resolved to set fire to the fort; and the squaws + belonging to the allies were employed to collect combustibles. This + however, was abandoned; the Nez Perces being unwilling to destroy the + robes and blankets, and other spoils of the enemy, which they felt sure + would fall into their hands. + </p> + <p> + The Indians, when fighting, are prone to taunt and revile each other. + During one of the pauses of the battle, the voice of the Blackfeet chief + was heard. + </p> + <p> + “So long,” said he, “as we had powder and ball, we fought you in the open + field: when those were spent, we retreated here to die with our women and + children. You may burn us in our fort; but, stay by our ashes, and you who + are so hungry for fighting will soon have enough. There are four hundred + lodges of our brethren at hand. They will soon be here—their arms + are strong—their hearts are big—they will avenge us!” + </p> + <p> + This speech was translated two or three times by Nez Perce and creole + interpreters. By the time it was rendered into English, the chief was made + to say that four hundred lodges of his tribe were attacking the encampment + at the other end of the valley. Every one now was for hurrying to the + defence of the rendezvous. A party was left to keep watch upon the fort; + the rest galloped off to the camp. As night came on, the trappers drew out + of the swamp, and remained about the skirts of the wood. By morning, their + companions returned from the rendezvous with the report that all was safe. + As the day opened, they ventured within the swamp and approached the fort. + All was silent. They advanced up to it without opposition. They entered: + it had been abandoned in the night, and the Blackfeet had effected their + retreat, carrying off their wounded on litters made of branches, leaving + bloody traces on the herbage. The bodies of ten Indians were found within + the fort; among them the one shot in the eye by Sublette. The Blackfeet + afterward reported that they had lost twenty-six warriors in this battle. + Thirty-two horses were likewise found killed; among them were some of + those recently carried off from Sublette’s party, in the night; which + showed that these were the very savages that had attacked him. They proved + to be an advance party of the main body of Blackfeet, which had been upon + the trail of Sublette’s party. Five white men and one halfbreed were + killed, and several wounded. Seven of the Nez Perces were also killed, and + six wounded. They had an old chief, who was reputed as invulnerable. In + the course of the action he was hit by a spent ball, and threw up blood; + but his skin was unbroken. His people were now fully convinced that he was + proof against powder and ball. + </p> + <p> + A striking circumstance is related as having occurred the morning after + the battle. As some of the trappers and their Indian allies were + approaching the fort through the woods, they beheld an Indian woman, of + noble form and features, leaning against a tree. Their surprise at her + lingering here alone, to fall into the hands of her enemies, was + dispelled, when they saw the corpse of a warrior at her feet. Either she + was so lost in grief as not to perceive their approach; or a proud spirit + kept her silent and motionless. The Indians set up a yell, on discovering + her, and before the trappers could interfere, her mangled body fell upon + the corpse which she had refused to abandon. We have heard this anecdote + discredited by one of the leaders who had been in the battle: but the fact + may have taken place without his seeing it, and been concealed from him. + It is an instance of female devotion, even to the death, which we are well + disposed to believe and to record. + </p> + <p> + After the battle, the brigade of Milton Sublette, together with the free + trappers, and Wyeth’s New England band, remained some days at the + rendezvous, to see if the main body of Blackfeet intended to make an + attack; nothing of the kind occurring, they once more put themselves in + motion, and proceeded on their route toward the southwest. Captain + Sublette having distributed his supplies, had intended to set off on his + return to St. Louis, taking with him the peltries collected from the + trappers and Indians. His wound, however obliged him to postpone his + departure. Several who were to have accompanied him became impatient of + this delay. Among these was a young Bostonian, Mr. Joseph More, one of the + followers of Mr. Wyeth, who had seen enough of mountain life and savage + warfare, and was eager to return to the abodes of civilization. He and six + others, among whom were a Mr. Foy, of Mississippi, Mr. Alfred K. Stephens, + of St. Louis, and two grandsons of the celebrated Daniel Boon, set out + together, in advance of Sublette’s party, thinking they would make their + way through the mountains. + </p> + <p> + It was just five days after the battle of the swamp that these seven + companions were making their way through Jackson’s Hole, a valley not far + from the three Tetons, when, as they were descending a hill, a party of + Blackfeet that lay in ambush started up with terrific yells. The horse of + the young Bostonian, who was in front, wheeled round with affright, and + threw his unskilled rider. The young man scrambled up the side of the + hill, but, unaccustomed to such wild scenes, lost his presence of mind, + and stood, as if paralyzed, on the edge of a bank, until the Blackfeet + came up and slew him on the spot. His comrades had fled on the first + alarm; but two of them, Foy and Stephens, seeing his danger, paused when + they got half way up the hill, turned back, dismounted, and hastened to + his assistance. Foy was instantly killed. Stephens was severely wounded, + but escaped, to die five days afterward. The survivors returned to the + camp of Captain Sublette, bringing tidings of this new disaster. That + hardy leader, as soon as he could bear the journey, set out on his return + to St. Louis, accompanied by Campbell. As they had a number of pack-horses + richly laden with peltries to convoy, they chose a different route through + the mountains, out of the way, as they hoped, of the lurking bands of + Blackfeet. They succeeded in making the frontier in safety. We remember to + have seen them with their band, about two or three months afterward, + passing through a skirt of woodland in the upper part of Missouri. Their + long cavalcade stretched in single file for nearly half a mile. Sublette + still wore his arm in a sling. The mountaineers in their rude hunting + dresses, armed with rifles and roughly mounted, and leading their + pack-horses down a hill of the forest, looked like banditti returning with + plunder. On the top of some of the packs were perched several half-breed + children, perfect little imps, with wild black eyes glaring from among elf + locks. These, I was told, were children of the trappers; pledges of love + from their squaw spouses in the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 7. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Retreat of the Blackfeet—Fontenelle’s camp in danger— + Captain Bonneville and the Blackfeet—Free trappers—Their + character, habits, dress, equipments, horses—Game fellows + of the mountains—Their visit to the camp—Good fellowship + and good cheer—A carouse—A swagger, a brawl, and a + reconciliation +</pre> + <p> + THE BLACKFEET WARRIORS, when they effected their midnight retreat from + their wild fastness in Pierre’s Hole, fell back into the valley of the + Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River where they joined the main body of their + band. The whole force amounted to several hundred fighting men, gloomy and + exasperated by their late disaster. They had with them their wives and + children, which incapacitated them from any bold and extensive enterprise + of a warlike nature; but when, in the course of their wanderings they came + in sight of the encampment of Fontenelle, who had moved some distance up + Green River valley in search of the free trappers, they put up tremendous + war-cries, and advanced fiercely as if to attack it. Second thoughts + caused them to moderate their fury. They recollected the severe lesson + just received, and could not but remark the strength of Fontenelle’s + position; which had been chosen with great judgment. + </p> + <p> + A formal talk ensued. The Blackfeet said nothing of the late battle, of + which Fontenelle had as yet received no accounts; the latter, however, + knew the hostile and perfidious nature of these savages, and took care to + inform them of the encampment of Captain Bonneville, that they might know + there were more white men in the neighborhood. The conference ended, + Fontenelle sent a Delaware Indian of his party to conduct fifteen of the + Blackfeet to the camp of Captain Bonneville. There was [sic] at that time + two Crow Indians in the captain’s camp, who had recently arrived there. + They looked with dismay at this deputation from their implacable enemies, + and gave the captain a terrible character of them, assuring him that the + best thing he could possibly do, was to put those Blackfeet deputies to + death on the spot. The captain, however, who had heard nothing of the + conflict at Pierre’s Hole, declined all compliance with this sage counsel. + He treated the grim warriors with his usual urbanity. They passed some + little time at the camp; saw, no doubt, that everything was conducted with + military skill and vigilance; and that such an enemy was not to be easily + surprised, nor to be molested with impunity, and then departed, to report + all that they had seen to their comrades. + </p> + <p> + The two scouts which Captain Bonneville had sent out to seek for the band + of free trappers, expected by Fontenelle, and to invite them to his camp, + had been successful in their search, and on the 12th of August those + worthies made their appearance. + </p> + <p> + To explain the meaning of the appellation, free trapper, it is necessary + to state the terms on which the men enlist in the service of the fur + companies. Some have regular wages, and are furnished with weapons, + horses, traps, and other requisites. These are under command, and bound to + do every duty required of them connected with the service; such as + hunting, trapping, loading and unloading the horses, mounting guard; and, + in short, all the drudgery of the camp. These are the hired trappers. + </p> + <p> + The free trappers are a more independent class; and in describing them, we + shall do little more than transcribe the graphic description of them by + Captain Bonneville. “They come and go,” says he, “when and where they + please; provide their own horses, arms, and other equipments; trap and + trade on their own account, and dispose of their skins and peltries to the + highest bidder. Sometimes, in a dangerous hunting ground, they attach + themselves to the camp of some trader for protection. Here they come under + some restrictions; they have to conform to the ordinary rules for + trapping, and to submit to such restraints, and to take part in such + general duties, as are established for the good order and safety of the + camp. In return for this protection, and for their camp keeping, they are + bound to dispose of all the beaver they take, to the trader who commands + the camp, at a certain rate per skin; or, should they prefer seeking a + market elsewhere, they are to make him an allowance, of from thirty to + forty dollars for the whole hunt.” + </p> + <p> + There is an inferior order, who, either from prudence or poverty, come to + these dangerous hunting grounds without horses or accoutrements, and are + furnished by the traders. These, like the hired trappers, are bound to + exert themselves to the utmost in taking beaver, which, without skinning, + they render in at the trader’s lodge, where a stipulated price for each is + placed to their credit. These though generally included in the generic + name of free trappers, have the more specific title of skin trappers. + </p> + <p> + The wandering whites who mingle for any length of time with the savages + have invariably a proneness to adopt savage habitudes; but none more so + than the free trappers. It is a matter of vanity and ambition with them to + discard everything that may bear the stamp of civilized life, and to adopt + the manners, habits, dress, gesture, and even walk of the Indian. You + cannot pay a free trapper a greater compliment, than to persuade him you + have mistaken him for an Indian brave; and, in truth, the counterfeit is + complete. His hair suffered to attain to a great length, is carefully + combed out, and either left to fall carelessly over his shoulders, or + plaited neatly and tied up in otter skins, or parti-colored ribands. A + hunting-shirt of ruffled calico of bright dyes, or of ornamented leather, + falls to his knee; below which, curiously fashioned legging, ornamented + with strings, fringes, and a profusion of hawks’ bells, reach to a costly + pair of moccasons of the finest Indian fabric, richly embroidered with + beads. A blanket of scarlet, or some other bright color, hangs from his + shoulders, and is girt around his waist with a red sash, in which he + bestows his pistols, knife, and the stem of his Indian pipe; preparations + either for peace or war. His gun is lavishly decorated with brass tacks + and vermilion, and provided with a fringed cover, occasionally of + buckskin, ornamented here and there with a feather. His horse, the noble + minister to the pride, pleasure, and profit of the mountaineer, is + selected for his speed and spirit, and prancing gait, and holds a place in + his estimation second only to himself. He shares largely of his bounty, + and of his pride and pomp of trapping. He is caparisoned in the most + dashing and fantastic style; the bridles and crupper are weightily + embossed with beads and cockades; and head, mane, and tail, are interwoven + with abundance of eagles’ plumes, which flutter in the wind. To complete + this grotesque equipment, the proud animal is bestreaked and bespotted + with vermilion, or with white clay, whichever presents the most glaring + contrast to his real color. + </p> + <p> + Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of these rangers of the + wilderness, and their appearance at the camp was strikingly + characteristic. They came dashing forward at full speed, firing their + fusees, and yelling in Indian style. Their dark sunburned faces, and long + flowing hair, their legging, flaps, moccasons, and richly-dyed blankets, + and their painted horses gaudily caparisoned, gave them so much the air + and appearance of Indians, that it was difficult to persuade one’s self + that they were white men, and had been brought up in civilized life. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville, who was delighted with the game look of these + cavaliers of the mountains, welcomed them heartily to his camp, and + ordered a free allowance of grog to regale them, which soon put them in + the most braggart spirits. They pronounced the captain the finest fellow + in the world, and his men all bons garcons, jovial lads, and swore they + would pass the day with them. They did so; and a day it was, of boast, and + swagger, and rodomontade. The prime bullies and braves among the free + trappers had each his circle of novices, from among the captain’s band; + mere greenhorns, men unused to Indian life; mangeurs de lard, or + pork-eaters; as such new-comers are superciliously called by the veterans + of the wilderness. These he would astonish and delight by the hour, with + prodigious tales of his doings among the Indians; and of the wonders he + had seen, and the wonders he had performed, in his adventurous + peregrinations among the mountains. + </p> + <p> + In the evening, the free trappers drew off, and returned to the camp of + Fontenelle, highly delighted with their visit and with their new + acquaintances, and promising to return the following day. They kept their + word: day after day their visits were repeated; they became “hail fellow + well met” with Captain Bonneville’s men; treat after treat succeeded, + until both parties got most potently convinced, or rather confounded, by + liquor. Now came on confusion and uproar. The free trappers were no longer + suffered to have all the swagger to themselves. The camp bullies and prime + trappers of the party began to ruffle up, and to brag, in turn, of their + perils and achievements. Each now tried to out-boast and out-talk the + other; a quarrel ensued as a matter of course, and a general fight, + according to frontier usage. The two factions drew out their forces for a + pitched battle. They fell to work and belabored each other with might and + main; kicks and cuffs and dry blows were as well bestowed as they were + well merited, until, having fought to their hearts’ content, and been + drubbed into a familiar acquaintance with each other’s prowess and good + qualities, they ended the fight by becoming firmer friends than they could + have been rendered by a year’s peaceable companionship. + </p> + <p> + While Captain Bonneville amused himself by observing the habits and + characteristics of this singular class of men, and indulged them, for the + time, in all their vagaries, he profited by the opportunity to collect + from them information concerning the different parts of the country about + which they had been accustomed to range; the characters of the tribes, + and, in short, everything important to his enterprise. He also succeeded + in securing the services of several to guide and aid him in his + peregrinations among the mountains, and to trap for him during the ensuing + season. Having strengthened his party with such valuable recruits, he felt + in some measure consoled for the loss of the Delaware Indians, decoyed + from him by Mr Fontenelle. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 8. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Plans for the winter—Salmon River—Abundance of salmon west + of the mountains—New arrangements—Caches—Cerre’s + detachment—Movements in—Fontenelle’s camp—Departure of + the—Blackfeet—Their fortunes—Wind—Mountain streams— + Buckeye, the Delaware hunter, and the grizzly bear—Bones of + murdered travellers—Visit to Pierre’s Hole—Traces of the + battle—Nez—Perce—Indians—Arrival at—Salmon River +</pre> + <p> + THE INFORMATION derived from the free trappers determined Captain + Bonneville as to his further movements. He learned that in the Green River + valley the winters were severe, the snow frequently falling to the depth + of several feet; and that there was no good wintering ground in the + neighborhood. The upper part of Salmon River was represented as far more + eligible, besides being in an excellent beaver country; and thither the + captain resolved to bend his course. + </p> + <p> + The Salmon River is one of the upper branches of the Oregon or Columbia; + and takes its rise from various sources, among a group of mountains to the + northwest of the Wind River chain. It owes its name to the immense shoals + of salmon which ascend it in the months of September and October. The + salmon on the west side of the Rocky Mountains are, like the buffalo on + the eastern plains, vast migratory supplies for the wants of man, that + come and go with the seasons. As the buffalo in countless throngs find + their certain way in the transient pasturage on the prairies, along the + fresh banks of the rivers, and up every valley and green defile of the + mountains, so the salmon, at their allotted seasons, regulated by a + sublime and all-seeing Providence, swarm in myriads up the great rivers, + and find their way up their main branches, and into the minutest tributory + streams; so as to pervade the great arid plains, and to penetrate even + among barren mountains. Thus wandering tribes are fed in the desert places + of the wilderness, where there is no herbage for the animals of the chase, + and where, but for these periodical supplies, it would be impossible for + man to subsist. + </p> + <p> + The rapid currents of the rivers which run into the Pacific render the + ascent of them very exhausting to the salmon. When the fish first run up + the rivers, they are fat and in fine order. The struggle against impetuous + streams and frequent rapids gradually renders them thin and weak, and + great numbers are seen floating down the rivers on their backs. As the + season advances and the water becomes chilled, they are flung in myriads + on the shores, where the wolves and bears assemble to banquet on them. + Often they rot in such quantities along the river banks as to taint the + atmosphere. They are commonly from two to three feet long. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville now made his arrangements for the autumn and the + winter. The nature of the country through which he was about to travel + rendered it impossible to proceed with wagons. He had more goods and + supplies of various kinds, also, than were required for present purposes, + or than could be conveniently transported on horseback; aided, therefore, + by a few confidential men, he made caches, or secret pits, during the + night, when all the rest of the camp were asleep, and in these deposited + the superfluous effects, together with the wagons. All traces of the + caches were then carefully obliterated. This is a common expedient with + the traders and trappers of the mountains. Having no established posts and + magazines, they make these caches or deposits at certain points, whither + they repair, occasionally, for supplies. It is an expedient derived from + the wandering tribes of Indians. + </p> + <p> + Many of the horses were still so weak and lame, as to be unfit for a long + scramble through the mountains. These were collected into one cavalcade, + and given in charge to an experienced trapper, of the name of Matthieu. He + was to proceed westward, with a brigade of trappers, to Bear River; a + stream to the west of the Green River or Colorado, where there was good + pasturage for the horses. In this neighborhood it was expected he would + meet the Shoshonie villages or bands, on their yearly migrations, with + whom he was to trade for peltries and provisions. After he had traded with + these people, finished his trapping, and recruited the strength of the + horses, he was to proceed to Salmon River and rejoin Captain Bonneville, + who intended to fix his quarters there for the winter. + </p> + <p> + While these arrangements were in progress in the camp of Captain + Bonneville, there was a sudden bustle and stir in the camp of Fontenelle. + One of the partners of the American Fur Company had arrived, in all haste, + from the rendezvous at Pierre’s Hole, in quest of the supplies. The + competition between the two rival companies was just now at its height, + and prosecuted with unusual zeal. The tramontane concerns of the Rocky + Mountain Fur Company were managed by two resident partners, Fitzpatrick + and Bridger; those of the American Fur Company, by Vanderburgh and Dripps. + The latter were ignorant of the mountain regions, but trusted to make up + by vigilance and activity for their want of knowledge of the country. + </p> + <p> + Fitzpatrick, an experienced trader and trapper, knew the evils of + competition in the same hunting grounds, and had proposed that the two + companies should divide the country, so as to hunt in different + directions: this proposition being rejected, he had exerted himself to get + first into the field. His exertions, as have already been shown, were + effectual. The early arrival of Sublette, with supplies, had enabled the + various brigades of the Rocky Mountain Company to start off to their + respective hunting grounds. Fitzpatrick himself, with his associate, + Bridger, had pushed off with a strong party of trappers, for a prime + beaver country to the north-northwest. + </p> + <p> + This had put Vanderburgh upon his mettle. He had hastened on to meet + Fontenelle. Finding him at his camp in Green River valley, he immediately + furnished himself with the supplies; put himself at the head of the free + trappers and Delawares, and set off with all speed, determined to follow + hard upon the heels of Fitzpatrick and Bridger. Of the adventures of these + parties among the mountains, and the disastrous effects of their + competition, we shall have occasion to treat in a future chapter. + </p> + <p> + Fontenelle having now delivered his supplies and accomplished his errand, + struck his tents and set off on his return to the Yellowstone. Captain + Bonneville and his band, therefore, remained alone in the Green River + valley; and their situation might have been perilous, had the Blackfeet + band still lingered in the vicinity. Those marauders, however, had been + dismayed at finding so many resolute and well-appointed parties of white + men in the neighborhood. They had, therefore, abandoned this part of the + country, passing over the headwaters of the Green River, and bending their + course towards the Yellowstone. Misfortune pursued them. Their route lay + through the country of their deadly enemies, the Crows. In the Wind River + valley, which lies east of the mountains, they were encountered by a + powerful war party of that tribe, and completely put to rout. Forty of + them were killed, many of their women and children captured, and the + scattered fugitives hunted like wild beasts until they were completely + chased out of the Crow country. + </p> + <p> + On the 22d of August Captain Bonneville broke up his camp, and set out on + his route for Salmon River. His baggage was arranged in packs, three to a + mule, or pack-horse; one being disposed on each side of the animal and one + on the top; the three forming a load of from one hundred and eighty to two + hundred and twenty pounds. This is the trappers’ style of loading + pack-horses; his men, however, were inexpert at adjusting the packs, which + were prone to get loose and slip off, so that it was necessary to keep a + rear-guard to assist in reloading. A few days’ experience, however, + brought them into proper training. + </p> + <p> + Their march lay up the valley of the Seeds-ke-dee, overlooked to the right + by the lofty peaks of the Wind River Mountains. From bright little lakes + and fountain-heads of this remarkable bed of mountains poured forth the + tributary streams of the Seeds-ke-dee. Some came rushing down gullies and + ravines; others tumbled in crystal cascades from inaccessible clefts and + rocks, and others winding their way in rapid and pellucid currents across + the valley, to throw themselves into the main river. So transparent were + these waters that the trout with which they abounded could be seen gliding + about as if in the air; and their pebbly beds were distinctly visible at + the depth of many feet. This beautiful and diaphanous quality of the Rocky + Mountain streams prevails for a long time after they have mingled their + waters and swollen into important rivers. + </p> + <p> + Issuing from the upper part of the valley, Captain Bonneville continued to + the east-northeast, across rough and lofty ridges, and deep rocky defiles, + extremely fatiguing both to man and horse. Among his hunters was a + Delaware Indian who had remained faithful to him. His name was Buckeye. He + had often prided himself on his skill and success in coping with the + grizzly bear, that terror of the hunters. Though crippled in the left arm, + he declared he had no hesitation to close with a wounded bear, and attack + him with a sword. If armed with a rifle, he was willing to brave the + animal when in full force and fury. He had twice an opportunity of proving + his prowess, in the course of this mountain journey, and was each time + successful. His mode was to seat himself upon the ground, with his rifle + cocked and resting on his lame arm. Thus prepared, he would await the + approach of the bear with perfect coolness, nor pull trigger until he was + close at hand. In each instance, he laid the monster dead upon the spot. + </p> + <p> + A march of three or four days, through savage and lonely scenes, brought + Captain Bonneville to the fatal defile of Jackson’s Hole, where poor More + and Foy had been surprised and murdered by the Blackfeet. The feelings of + the captain were shocked at beholding the bones of these unfortunate young + men bleaching among the rocks; and he caused them to be decently interred. + </p> + <p> + On the 3d of September he arrived on the summit of a mountain which + commanded a full view of the eventful valley of Pierre’s Hole; whence he + could trace the winding of its stream through green meadows, and forests + of willow and cotton-wood, and have a prospect, between distant mountains, + of the lava plains of Snake River, dimly spread forth like a sleeping + ocean below. + </p> + <p> + After enjoying this magnificent prospect, he descended into the valley, + and visited the scenes of the late desperate conflict. There were the + remains of the rude fortress in the swamp, shattered by rifle shot, and + strewed with the mingled bones of savages and horses. There was the late + populous and noisy rendezvous, with the traces of trappers’ camps and + Indian lodges; but their fires were extinguished, the motley assemblage of + trappers and hunters, white traders and Indian braves, had all dispersed + to different points of the wilderness, and the valley had relapsed into + its pristine solitude and silence. + </p> + <p> + That night the captain encamped upon the battle ground; the next day he + resumed his toilsome peregrinations through the mountains. For upwards of + two weeks he continued his painful march; both men and horses suffering + excessively at times from hunger and thirst. At length, on the 19th of + September, he reached the upper waters of Salmon River. + </p> + <p> + The weather was cold, and there were symptoms of an impending storm. The + night set in, but Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was missing. He had left + the party early in the morning, to hunt by himself, according to his + custom. Fears were entertained lest he should lose his way and become + bewildered in tempestuous weather. These fears increased on the following + morning, when a violent snow-storm came on, which soon covered the earth + to the depth of several inches. Captain Bonneville immediately encamped, + and sent out scouts in every direction. After some search Buckeye was + discovered, quietly seated at a considerable distance in the rear, waiting + the expected approach of the party, not knowing that they had passed, the + snow having covered their trail. + </p> + <p> + On the ensuing morning they resumed their march at an early hour, but had + not proceeded far when the hunters, who were beating up the country in the + advance, came galloping back, making signals to encamp, and crying + Indians! Indians! + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville immediately struck into a skirt of wood and prepared + for action. The savages were now seen trooping over the hills in great + numbers. One of them left the main body and came forward singly, making + signals of peace. He announced them as a band of Nez Perces or + Pierced-nose Indians, friendly to the whites, whereupon an invitation was + returned by Captain Bonneville for them to come and encamp with him. They + halted for a short time to make their toilette, an operation as important + with an Indian warrior as with a fashionable beauty. This done, they + arranged themselves in martial style, the chiefs leading the van, the + braves following in a long line, painted and decorated, and topped off + with fluttering plumes. In this way they advanced, shouting and singing, + firing off their fusees, and clashing their shields. The two parties + encamped hard by each other. The Nez Perces were on a hunting expedition, + but had been almost famished on their march. They had no provisions left + but a few dried salmon, yet finding the white men equally in want, they + generously offered to share even this meager pittance, and frequently + repeated the offer, with an earnestness that left no doubt of their + sincerity. Their generosity won the heart of Captain Bonneville, and + produced the most cordial good will on the part of his men. For two days + that the parties remained in company, the most amicable intercourse + prevailed, and they parted the best of friends. Captain Bonneville + detached a few men, under Mr. Cerre, an able leader, to accompany the Nez + Perces on their hunting expedition, and to trade with them for meat for + the winter’s supply. After this, he proceeded down the river, about five + miles below the forks, when he came to a halt on the 26th of September, to + establish his winter quarters. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 9. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Horses turned loose—Preparations for winter quarters— + Hungry times—Nez-Perces, their honesty, piety, pacific + habits, religious ceremonies—Captain Bonneville’s + conversations with them—Their love of gambling +</pre> + <p> + IT WAS GRATIFYING to Captain Bonneville, after so long and toilsome a + course of travel, to relieve his poor jaded horses of the burden under + which they were almost ready to give out, and to behold them rolling upon + the grass, and taking a long repose after all their sufferings. Indeed, so + exhausted were they, that those employed under the saddle were no longer + capable of hunting for the daily subsistence of the camp. + </p> + <p> + All hands now set to work to prepare a winter cantonment. A temporary + fortification was thrown up for the protection of the party; a secure and + comfortable pen, into which the horses could be driven at night; and huts + were built for the reception of the merchandise. + </p> + <p> + This done, Captain Bonneville made a distribution of his forces: twenty + men were to remain with him in garrison to protect the property; the rest + were organized into three brigades, and sent off in different directions, + to subsist themselves by hunting the buffalo, until the snow should become + too deep. + </p> + <p> + Indeed, it would have been impossible to provide for the whole party in + this neighborhood. It was at the extreme western limit of the buffalo + range, and these animals had recently been completely hunted out of the + neighborhood by the Nez Perces, so that, although the hunters of the + garrison were continually on the alert, ranging the country round, they + brought in scarce game sufficient to keep famine from the door. Now and + then there was a scanty meal of fish or wild-fowl, occasionally an + antelope; but frequently the cravings of hunger had to be appeased with + roots, or the flesh of wolves and muskrats. Rarely could the inmates of + the cantonment boast of having made a full meal, and never of having + wherewithal for the morrow. In this way they starved along until the 8th + of October, when they were joined by a party of five families of Nez + Perces, who in some measure reconciled them to the hardships of their + situation by exhibiting a lot still more destitute. A more forlorn set + they had never encountered: they had not a morsel of meat or fish; nor + anything to subsist on, excepting roots, wild rosebuds, the barks of + certain plants, and other vegetable production; neither had they any + weapon for hunting or defence, excepting an old spear: yet the poor + fellows made no murmur nor complaint; but seemed accustomed to their hard + fare. If they could not teach the white men their practical stoicism, they + at least made them acquainted with the edible properties of roots and wild + rosebuds, and furnished them a supply from their own store. The + necessities of the camp at length became so urgent that Captain Bonneville + determined to dispatch a party to the Horse Prairie, a plain to the north + of his cantonment, to procure a supply of provisions. When the men were + about to depart, he proposed to the Nez Perces that they, or some of them, + should join the hunting-party. To his surprise, they promptly declined. He + inquired the reason for their refusal, seeing that they were in nearly as + starving a situation as his own people. They replied that it was a sacred + day with them, and the Great Spirit would be angry should they devote it + to hunting. They offered, however, to accompany the party if it would + delay its departure until the following day; but this the pinching demands + of hunger would not permit, and the detachment proceeded. + </p> + <p> + A few days afterward, four of them signified to Captain Bonneville that + they were about to hunt. “What!” exclaimed he, “without guns or arrows; + and with only one old spear? What do you expect to kill?” They smiled + among themselves, but made no answer. Preparatory to the chase, they + performed some religious rites, and offered up to the Great Spirit a few + short prayers for safety and success; then, having received the blessings + of their wives, they leaped upon their horses and departed, leaving the + whole party of Christian spectators amazed and rebuked by this lesson of + faith and dependence on a supreme and benevolent Being. “Accustomed,” adds + Captain Bonneville, “as I had heretofore been, to find the wretched Indian + revelling in blood, and stained by every vice which can degrade human + nature, I could scarcely realize the scene which I had witnessed. Wonder + at such unaffected tenderness and piety, where it was least to have been + sought, contended in all our bosoms with shame and confusion, at receiving + such pure and wholesome instructions from creatures so far below us in the + arts and comforts of life.” The simple prayers of the poor Indians were + not unheard. In the course of four or five days they returned, laden with + meat. Captain Bonneville was curious to know how they had attained such + success with such scanty means. They gave him to understand that they had + chased the buffalo at full speed, until they tired them down, when they + easily dispatched them with the spear, and made use of the same weapon to + flay the carcasses. To carry through their lessons to their Christian + friends, the poor savages were as charitable as they had been pious, and + generously shared with them the spoils of their hunting, giving them food + enough to last for several days. + </p> + <p> + A further and more intimate intercourse with this tribe gave Captain + Bonneville still greater cause to admire their strong devotional feeling. + “Simply to call these people religious,” says he, “would convey but a + faint idea of the deep hue of piety and devotion which pervades their + whole conduct. Their honesty is immaculate, and their purity of purpose, + and their observance of the rites of their religion, are most uniform and + remarkable. They are, certainly, more like a nation of saints than a horde + of savages.” + </p> + <p> + In fact, the antibelligerent policy of this tribe may have sprung from the + doctrines of Christian charity, for it would appear that they had imbibed + some notions of the Christian faith from Catholic missionaries and traders + who had been among them. They even had a rude calendar of the fasts and + festivals of the Romish Church, and some traces of its ceremonials. These + have become blended with their own wild rites, and present a strange + medley; civilized and barbarous. On the Sabbath, men, women, and children + array themselves in their best style, and assemble round a pole erected at + the head of the camp. Here they go through a wild fantastic ceremonial; + strongly resembling the religious dance of the Shaking Quakers; but from + its enthusiasm, much more striking and impressive. During the intervals of + the ceremony, the principal chiefs, who officiate as priests, instruct + them in their duties, and exhort them to virtue and good deeds. + </p> + <p> + “There is something antique and patriarchal,” observes Captain Bonneville, + “in this union of the offices of leader and priest; as there is in many of + their customs and manners, which are all strongly imbued with religion.” + </p> + <p> + The worthy captain, indeed, appears to have been strongly interested by + this gleam of unlooked for light amidst the darkness of the wilderness. He + exerted himself, during his sojourn among this simple and well-disposed + people, to inculcate, as far as he was able, the gentle and humanizing + precepts of the Christian faith, and to make them acquainted with the + leading points of its history; and it speaks highly for the purity and + benignity of his heart, that he derived unmixed happiness from the task. + </p> + <p> + “Many a time,” says he, “was my little lodge thronged, or rather piled + with hearers, for they lay on the ground, one leaning over the other, + until there was no further room, all listening with greedy ears to the + wonders which the Great Spirit had revealed to the white man. No other + subject gave them half the satisfaction, or commanded half the attention; + and but few scenes in my life remain so freshly on my memory, or are so + pleasurably recalled to my contemplation, as these hours of intercourse + with a distant and benighted race in the midst of the desert.” + </p> + <p> + The only excesses indulged in by this temperate and exemplary people, + appear to be gambling and horseracing. In these they engage with an + eagerness that amounts to infatuation. Knots of gamblers will assemble + before one of their lodge fires, early in the evening, and remain absorbed + in the chances and changes of the game until long after dawn of the + following day. As the night advances, they wax warmer and warmer. Bets + increase in amount, one loss only serves to lead to a greater, until in + the course of a single night’s gambling, the richest chief may become the + poorest varlet in the camp. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 10. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Black feet in the Horse Prairie—Search after the hunters— + Difficulties and dangers—A card party in the wilderness— + The card party interrupted—“Old Sledge” a losing game— + Visitors to the camp—Iroquois hunters—Hanging-eared + Indians +</pre> + <p> + ON the 12th of October, two young Indians of the Nez Perce tribe arrived + at Captain Bonneville’s encampment. They were on their way homeward, but + had been obliged to swerve from their ordinary route through the + mountains, by deep snows. Their new route took them though the Horse + Prairie. In traversing it, they had been attracted by the distant smoke of + a camp fire, and on stealing near to reconnoitre, had discovered a war + party of Blackfeet. They had several horses with them; and, as they + generally go on foot on warlike excursions, it was concluded that these + horses had been captured in the course of their maraudings. + </p> + <p> + This intelligence awakened solicitude on the mind of Captain Bonneville + for the party of hunters whom he had sent to that neighborhood; and the + Nez Perces, when informed of the circumstances, shook their heads, and + declared their belief that the horses they had seen had been stolen from + that very party. Anxious for information on the subject, Captain + Bonneville dispatched two hunters to beat up the country in that + direction. They searched in vain; not a trace of the men could be found; + but they got into a region destitute of game, where they were well-nigh + famished. At one time they were three entire days with-out a mouthful of + food; at length they beheld a buffalo grazing at the foot of the mountain. + After manoeuvring so as to get within shot, they fired, but merely wounded + him. He took to flight, and they followed him over hill and dale, with the + eagerness and per-severance of starving men. A more lucky shot brought him + to the ground. Stanfield sprang upon him, plunged his knife into his + throat, and allayed his raging hunger by drinking his blood: A fire was + instantly kindled beside the carcass, when the two hunters cooked, and ate + again and again, until, perfectly gorged, they sank to sleep before their + hunting fire. On the following morning they rose early, made another + hearty meal, then loading themselves with buffalo meat, set out on their + return to the camp, to report the fruitlessness of their mission. + </p> + <p> + At length, after six weeks’ absence, the hunters made their appearance, + and were received with joy proportioned to the anxiety that had been felt + on their account. They had hunted with success on the prairie, but, while + busy drying buffalo meat, were joined by a few panic-stricken Flatheads, + who informed them that a powerful band of Blackfeet was at hand. The + hunters immediately abandoned the dangerous hunting ground, and + accompanied the Flatheads to their village. Here they found Mr. Cerre, and + the detachment of hunters sent with him to accompany the hunting party of + the Nez Perces. + </p> + <p> + After remaining some time at the village, until they supposed the + Blackfeet to have left the neighborhood, they set off with some of Mr. + Cerre’s men for the cantonment at Salmon River, where they arrived without + accident. They informed Captain Bonneville, however, that not far from his + quarters they had found a wallet of fresh meat and a cord, which they + supposed had been left by some prowling Blackfeet. A few days afterward + Mr. Cerre, with the remainder of his men, likewise arrived at the + cantonment. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Walker, one of his subleaders, who had gone with a band of twenty + hunters to range the country just beyond the Horse Prairie, had likewise + his share of adventures with the all-pervading Blackfeet. At one of his + encampments the guard stationed to keep watch round the camp grew weary of + their duty, and feeling a little too secure, and too much at home on these + prairies, retired to a small grove of willows to amuse themselves with a + social game of cards called “old sledge,” which is as popular among these + trampers of the prairies as whist or ecarte among the polite circles of + the cities. From the midst of their sport they were suddenly roused by a + discharge of firearms and a shrill war-whoop. Starting on their feet, and + snatching up their rifles, they beheld in dismay their horses and mules + already in possession of the enemy, who had stolen upon the camp + unperceived, while they were spell-bound by the magic of old sledge. The + Indians sprang upon the animals barebacked, and endeavored to urge them + off under a galling fire that did some execution. The mules, however, + confounded by the hurly-burly and disliking their new riders kicked up + their heels and dismounted half of them, in spite of their horsemanship. + This threw the rest into confusion; they endeavored to protect their + unhorsed comrades from the furious assaults of the whites; but, after a + scene of “confusion worse confounded,” horses and mules were abandoned, + and the Indians betook themselves to the bushes. Here they quickly + scratched holes in the earth about two feet deep, in which they prostrated + themselves, and while thus screened from the shots of the white men, were + enabled to make such use of their bows and arrows and fusees, as to + repulse their assailants and to effect their retreat. This adventure threw + a temporary stigma upon the game of “old sledge.” + </p> + <p> + In the course of the autumn, four Iroquois hunters, driven by the snow + from their hunting grounds, made their appearance at the cantonment. They + were kindly welcomed, and during their sojourn made themselves useful in a + variety of ways, being excellent trappers and first-rate woodsmen. They + were of the remnants of a party of Iroquois hunters that came from Canada + into these mountain regions many years previously, in the employ of the + Hudson’s Bay Company. They were led by a brave chieftain, named Pierre, + who fell by the hands of the Blackfeet, and gave his name to the fated + valley of Pierre’s Hole. This branch of the Iroquois tribe has ever since + remained among these mountains, at mortal enmity with the Blackfeet, and + have lost many of their prime hunters in their feuds with that ferocious + race. Some of them fell in with General Ashley, in the course of one of + his gallant excursions into the wilderness, and have continued ever since + in the employ of the company. + </p> + <p> + Among the motley Visitors to the winter quarters of Captain Bonneville was + a party of Pends Oreilles (or Hanging-ears) and their chief. These Indians + have a strong resemblance, in character and customs, to the Nez Perces. + They amount to about three hundred lodges, are well armed, and possess + great numbers of horses. During the spring, summer, and autumn, they hunt + the buffalo about the head-waters of the Missouri, Henry’s Fork of the + Snake River, and the northern branches of Salmon River. Their winter + quarters are upon the Racine Amere, where they subsist upon roots and + dried buffalo meat. Upon this river the Hudson’s Bay Company have + established a trading post, where the Pends Oreilles and the Flatheads + bring their peltries to exchange for arms, clothing and trinkets. + </p> + <p> + This tribe, like the Nez Perces, evince strong and peculiar feelings of + natural piety. Their religion is not a mere superstitious fear, like that + of most savages; they evince abstract notions of morality; a deep + reverence for an overruling spirit, and a respect for the rights of their + fellow men. In one respect their religion partakes of the pacific + doctrines of the Quakers. They hold that the Great Spirit is displeased + with all nations who wantonly engage in war; they abstain, therefore, from + all aggressive hostilities. But though thus unoffending in their policy, + they are called upon continually to wage defensive warfare; especially + with the Blackfeet; with whom, in the course of their hunting expeditions, + they come in frequent collision and have desperate battles. Their conduct + as warriors is without fear or reproach, and they can never be driven to + abandon their hunting grounds. + </p> + <p> + Like most savages they are firm believers in dreams, and in the power and + efficacy of charms and amulets, or medicines as they term them. Some of + their braves, also, who have had numerous hairbreadth ‘scapes, like the + old Nez Perce chief in the battle of Pierre’s Hole, are believed to wear a + charmed life, and to be bullet-proof. Of these gifted beings marvelous + anecdotes are related, which are most potently believed by their fellow + savages, and sometimes almost credited by the white hunters. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 11. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Rival trapping parties—Manoeuvring—A desperate game— + Vanderburgh and the Blackfeet—Deserted camp fire—A dark + defile—An Indian ambush—A fierce melee—Fatal + consequences—Fitzpatrick and Bridger—Trappers precautions + —Meeting with the Blackfeet—More fighting—Anecdote of a + young—Mexican and an Indian girl. +</pre> + <p> + WHILE Captain Bonneville and his men are sojourning among the Nez Perces, + on Salmon River, we will inquire after the fortunes of those doughty + rivals of the Rocky Mountains and American Fur Companies, who started off + for the trapping grounds to the north-northwest. + </p> + <p> + Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the former company, as we have already shown, + having received their supplies, had taken the lead, and hoped to have the + first sweep of the hunting grounds. Vanderburgh and Dripps, however, the + two resident partners of the opposite company, by extraordinary exertions + were enabled soon to put themselves upon their traces, and pressed forward + with such speed as to overtake them just as they had reached the heart of + the beaver country. In fact, being ignorant of the best trapping grounds, + it was their object to follow on, and profit by the superior knowledge of + the other party. + </p> + <p> + Nothing could equal the chagrin of Fitzpatrick and Bridger at being dogged + by their inexperienced rivals, especially after their offer to divide the + country with them. They tried in every way to blind and baffle them; to + steal a march upon them, or lead them on a wrong scent; but all in vain. + Vanderburgh made up by activity and intelligence for his ignorance of the + country; was always wary, always on the alert; discovered every movement + of his rivals, however secret and was not to be eluded or misled. + </p> + <p> + Fitzpatrick and his colleague now lost all patience; since the others + persisted in following them, they determined to give them an unprofitable + chase, and to sacrifice the hunting season rather than share the products + with their rivals. They accordingly took up their line of march down the + course of the Missouri, keeping the main Blackfoot trail, and tramping + doggedly forward, without stopping to set a single trap. The others beat + the hoof after them for some time, but by degrees began to perceive that + they were on a wild-goose chase, and getting into a country perfectly + barren to the trapper. They now came to a halt, and be-thought themselves + how to make up for lost time, and improve the remainder of the season. It + was thought best to divide their forces and try different trapping + grounds. While Dripps went in one direction, Vanderburgh, with about fifty + men, proceeded in another. The latter, in his headlong march had got into + the very heart of the Blackfoot country, yet seems to have been + unconscious of his danger. As his scouts were out one day, they came upon + the traces of a recent band of savages. There were the deserted fires + still smoking, surrounded by the carcasses of buffaloes just killed. It + was evident a party of Blackfeet had been frightened from their hunting + camp, and had retreated, probably to seek reinforcements. The scouts + hastened back to the camp, and told Vanderburgh what they had seen. He + made light of the alarm, and, taking nine men with him, galloped off to + reconnoitre for himself. He found the deserted hunting camp just as they + had represented it; there lay the carcasses of buffaloes, partly + dismembered; there were the smouldering fires, still sending up their + wreaths of smoke; everything bore traces of recent and hasty retreat; and + gave reason to believe that the savages were still lurking in the + neighborhood. With heedless daring, Vanderburgh put himself upon their + trail, to trace them to their place of concealment: It led him over + prairies, and through skirts of woodland, until it entered a dark and + dangerous ravine. Vanderburgh pushed in, without hesitation, followed by + his little band. They soon found themselves in a gloomy dell, between + steep banks overhung with trees, where the profound silence was only + broken by the tramp of their own horses. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly the horrid war-whoop burst on their ears, mingled with the sharp + report of rifles, and a legion of savages sprang from their concealments, + yelling, and shaking their buffalo robes to frighten the horses. + Vanderburgh’s horse fell, mortally wounded by the first discharge. In his + fall he pinned his rider to the ground, who called in vain upon his men to + assist in extricating him. One was shot down scalped a few paces distant; + most of the others were severely wounded, and sought their safety in + flight. The savages approached to dispatch the unfortunate leader, as he + lay struggling beneath his horse.. He had still his rifle in his hand and + his pistols in his belt. The first savage that advanced received the + contents of the rifle in his breast, and fell dead upon the spot; but + before Vanderburgh could draw a pistol, a blow from a tomahawk laid him + prostrate, and he was dispatched by repeated wounds. + </p> + <p> + Such was the fate of Major Henry Vanderburgh, one of the best and + worthiest leaders of the American Fur Company, who by his manly bearing + and dauntless courage is said to have made himself universally popular + among the bold-hearted rovers of the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + Those of the little band who escaped fled in consternation to the camp, + and spread direful reports of the force and ferocity of the enemy. The + party, being without a head, were in complete confusion and dismay, and + made a precipitate retreat, without attempting to recover the remains of + their butchered leader. They made no halt until they reached the + encampment of the Pends Oreilles, or Hanging-ears, where they offered a + reward for the recovery of the body, but without success; it never could + be found. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime Fitzpatrick and Bridger, of the Rocky Mountain Company, + fared but little better than their rivals. In their eagerness to mislead + them they betrayed themselves into danger, and got into a region infested + with the Blackfeet. They soon found that foes were on the watch for them; + but they were experienced in Indian warfare, and not to be surprised at + night, nor drawn into an ambush in the daytime. As the evening advanced, + the horses were all brought in and picketed, and a guard was stationed + round the camp. At the earliest streak of day one of the leaders would + mount his horse, and gallop off full speed for about half a mile; then + look round for Indian trails, to ascertain whether there had been any + lurkers round the camp; returning slowly, he would reconnoitre every + ravine and thicket where there might be an ambush. This done, he would + gallop off in an opposite direction and repeat the same scrutiny. Finding + all things safe, the horses would be turned loose to graze, but always + under the eye of a guard. + </p> + <p> + A caution equally vigilant was observed in the march, on approaching any + defile or place where an enemy might lie in wait; and scouts were always + kept in the advance, or along the ridges and rising grounds on the flanks. + </p> + <p> + At length, one day, a large band of Blackfeet appeared in the open field, + but in the vicinity of rocks and cliffs. They kept at a wary distance, but + made friendly signs. The trappers replied in the same way, but likewise + kept aloof. A small party of Indians now advanced, bearing the pipe of + peace; they were met by an equal number of white men, and they formed a + group midway between the two bands, where the pipe was circulated from + hand to hand, and smoked with all due ceremony. An instance of natural + affection took place at this pacific meeting. Among the free trappers in + the Rocky Mountain band was a spirited young Mexican named Loretto, who, + in the course of his wanderings, had ransomed a beautiful Blackfoot girl + from a band of Crows by whom she had been captured. He made her his wife, + after the Indian style, and she had followed his fortunes ever since, with + the most devoted affection. + </p> + <p> + Among the Blackfeet warriors who advanced with the calumet of peace she + recognized a brother. Leaving her infant with Loretto she rushed forward + and threw herself upon her brother’s neck, who clasped his long-lost + sister to his heart with a warmth of affection but little compatible with + the reputed stoicism of the savage. + </p> + <p> + While this scene was taking place, Bridger left the main body of trappers + and rode slowly toward the group of smokers, with his rifle resting across + the pommel of his saddle. The chief of the Blackfeet stepped forward to + meet him. From some unfortunate feeling of distrust Bridger cocked his + rifle just as the chief was extending his hand in friendship. The quick + ear of the savage caught the click of the lock; in a twinkling he grasped + the barrel, forced the muzzle downward, and the contents were discharged + into the earth at his feet. His next movement was to wrest the weapon from + the hand of Bridger and fell him with it to the earth. He might have found + this no easy task had not the unfortunate leader received two arrows in + his back during the struggle. + </p> + <p> + The chief now sprang into the vacant saddle and galloped off to his band. + A wild hurry-skurry scene ensued; each party took to the banks, the rocks + and trees, to gain favorable positions, and an irregular firing was kept + up on either side, without much effect. The Indian girl had been hurried + off by her people at the outbreak of the affray. She would have returned, + through the dangers of the fight, to her husband and her child, but was + prevented by her brother. The young Mexican saw her struggles and her + agony, and heard her piercing cries. With a generous impulse he caught up + the child in his arms, rushed forward, regardless of Indian shaft or + rifle, and placed it in safety upon her bosom. Even the savage heart of + the Blackfoot chief was reached by this noble deed. He pronounced Loretto + a madman for his temerity, but bade him depart in peace. The young Mexican + hesitated; he urged to have his wife restored to him, but her brother + interfered, and the countenance of the chief grew dark. The girl, he said, + belonged to his tribe-she must remain with her people. Loretto would still + have lingered, but his wife implored him to depart, lest his life should + be endangered. It was with the greatest reluctance that he returned to his + companions. + </p> + <p> + The approach of night put an end to the skirmishing fire of the adverse + parties, and the savages drew off without renewing their hostilities. We + cannot but remark that both in this affair and that of Pierre’s Hole the + affray commenced by a hostile act on the part of white men at the moment + when the Indian warrior was extending the hand of amity. In neither + instance, as far as circumstances have been stated to us by different + persons, do we see any reason to suspect the savage chiefs of perfidy in + their overtures of friendship. They advanced in the confiding way usual + among Indians when they bear the pipe of peace, and consider themselves + sacred from attack. If we violate the sanctity of this ceremonial, by any + hostile movement on our part, it is we who incur the charge of + faithlessness; and we doubt not that in both these instances the white men + have been considered by the Blackfeet as the aggressors, and have, in + consequence, been held up as men not to be trusted. + </p> + <p> + A word to conclude the romantic incident of Loretto and his Indian bride. + A few months subsequent to the event just related, the young Mexican + settled his accounts with the Rocky Mountain Company, and obtained his + discharge. He then left his comrades and set off to rejoin his wife and + child among her people; and we understand that, at the time we are writing + these pages, he resides at a trading-house established of late by the + American Fur Company in the Blackfoot country, where he acts as an + interpreter, and has his Indian girl with him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 12. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A winter camp in the wilderness—Medley of trappers, + hunters, and Indians—Scarcity of game—New arrangements in + the camp—Detachments sent to a distance—Carelessness of + the Indians when encamped—Sickness among the Indians— + Excellent character of the Nez-Perces—The Captain’s effort + as a pacificator—A Nez-Perce’s argument in favor of war— + Robberies, by the Black feet—Long suffering of the Nez- + Perces—A hunter’s Elysium among the mountains—More + robberies—The Captain preaches up a crusade—The effect + upon his hearers. +</pre> + <p> + FOR the greater part of the month of November Captain Bonneville remained + in his temporary post on Salmon River. He was now in the full enjoyment of + his wishes; leading a hunter’s life in the heart of the wilderness, with + all its wild populace around him. Beside his own people, motley in + character and costume—creole, Kentuckian, Indian, half-breed, hired + trapper, and free trapper—he was surrounded by encampments of Nez + Perces and Flatheads, with their droves of horses covering the hills and + plains. It was, he declares, a wild and bustling scene. The hunting + parties of white men and red men, continually sallying forth and + returning; the groups at the various encampments, some cooking, some + working, some amusing themselves at different games; the neighing of + horses, the braying of asses, the resounding strokes of the axe, the sharp + report of the rifle, the whoop, the halloo, and the frequent burst of + laughter, all in the midst of a region suddenly roused from perfect + silence and loneliness by this transient hunters’ sojourn, realized, he + says, the idea of a “populous solitude.” + </p> + <p> + The kind and genial character of the captain had, evidently, its influence + on the opposite races thus fortuitously congregated together. The most + perfect harmony prevailed between them. The Indians, he says, were + friendly in their dispositions, and honest to the most scrupulous degree + in their intercourse with the white men. It is true they were somewhat + importunate in their curiosity, and apt to be continually in the way, + examining everything with keen and prying eye, and watching every movement + of the white men. All this, however, was borne with great good-humor by + the captain, and through his example by his men. Indeed, throughout all + his transactions he shows himself the friend of the poor Indians, and his + conduct toward them is above all praise. + </p> + <p> + The Nez Perces, the Flatheads, and the Hanging-ears pride themselves upon + the number of their horses, of which they possess more in proportion than + any other of the mountain tribes within the buffalo range. Many of the + Indian warriors and hunters encamped around Captain Bonneville possess + from thirty to forty horses each. Their horses are stout, well-built + ponies, of great wind, and capable of enduring the severest hardship and + fatigue. The swiftest of them, however, are those obtained from the whites + while sufficiently young to become acclimated and inured to the rough + service of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + By degrees the populousness of this encampment began to produce its + inconveniences. The immense droves of horses owned by the Indians consumed + the herbage of the surrounding hills; while to drive them to any distant + pasturage, in a neighborhood abounding with lurking and deadly enemies, + would be to endanger the loss both of man and beast. Game, too, began to + grow scarce. It was soon hunted and frightened out of the vicinity, and + though the Indians made a wide circuit through the mountains in the hope + of driving the buffalo toward the cantonment, their expedition was + unsuccessful. It was plain that so large a party could not subsist + themselves there, nor in any one place throughout the winter. Captain + Bonneville, therefore, altered his whole arrangements. He detached fifty + men toward the south to winter upon Snake River, and to trap about its + waters in the spring, with orders to rejoin him in the month of July at + Horse Creek, in Green River Valley, which he had fixed upon as the general + rendezvous of his company for the ensuing year. + </p> + <p> + Of all his late party, he now retained with him merely a small number of + free trappers, with whom he intended to sojourn among the Nez Perces and + Flatheads, and adopt the Indian mode of moving with the game and grass. + Those bands, in effect, shortly afterward broke up their encampments and + set off for a less beaten neighborhood. Captain Bonneville remained behind + for a few days, that he might secretly prepare caches, in which to deposit + everything not required for current use. Thus lightened of all superfluous + encumbrance, he set off on the 20th of November to rejoin his Indian + allies. He found them encamped in a secluded part of the country, at the + head of a small stream. Considering themselves out of all danger in this + sequestered spot from their old enemies, the Blackfeet, their encampment + manifested the most negligent security. Their lodges were scattered in + every direction, and their horses covered every hill for a great distance + round, grazing upon the upland bunch grass which grew in great abundance, + and though dry, retained its nutritious properties instead of losing them + like other grasses in the autumn. + </p> + <p> + When the Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Pends Oreilles are encamped in a + dangerous neighborhood, says Captain Bonneville, the greatest care is + taken of their horses, those prime articles of Indian wealth, and objects + of Indian depredation. Each warrior has his horse tied by one foot at + night to a stake planted before his lodge. Here they remain until broad + daylight; by that time the young men of the camp are already ranging over + the surrounding hills. Each family then drives its horses to some eligible + spot, where they are left to graze unattended. A young Indian repairs + occasionally to the pasture to give them water, and to see that all is + well. So accustomed are the horses to this management, that they keep + together in the pasture where they have been left. As the sun sinks behind + the hills, they may be seen moving from all points toward the camp, where + they surrender themselves to be tied up for the night. Even in situations + of danger, the Indians rarely set guards over their camp at night, + intrusting that office entirely to their vigilant and well-trained dogs. + </p> + <p> + In an encampment, however, of such fancied security as that in which + Captain Bonneville found his Indian friends, much of these precautions + with respect to their horses are omitted. They merely drive them, at + nightfall, to some sequestered little dell, and leave them there, at + perfect liberty, until the morning. + </p> + <p> + One object of Captain Bonneville in wintering among these Indians was to + procure a supply of horses against the spring. They were, however, + extremely unwilling to part with any, and it was with great difficulty + that he purchased, at the rate of twenty dollars each, a few for the use + of some of his free trappers who were on foot and dependent on him for + their equipment. + </p> + <p> + In this encampment Captain Bonneville remained from the 21st of November + to the 9th of December. During this period the thermometer ranged from + thirteen to forty-two degrees. There were occasional falls of snow; but it + generally melted away almost immediately, and the tender blades of new + grass began to shoot up among the old. On the 7th of December, however, + the thermometer fell to seven degrees. + </p> + <p> + The reader will recollect that, on distributing his forces when in Green + River Valley, Captain Bonneville had detached a party, headed by a leader + of the name of Matthieu, with all the weak and disabled horses, to sojourn + about Bear River, meet the Shoshonie bands, and afterward to rejoin him at + his winter camp on Salmon River. + </p> + <p> + More than sufficient time had elapsed, yet Matthieu failed to make his + appearance, and uneasiness began to be felt on his account. Captain + Bonneville sent out four men, to range the country through which he would + have to pass, and endeavor to get some information concerning him; for his + route lay across the great Snake River plain, which spreads itself out + like an Arabian desert, and on which a cavalcade could be descried at a + great distance. The scouts soon returned, having proceeded no further than + the edge of the plain, pretending that their horses were lame; but it was + evident they had feared to venture, with so small a force, into these + exposed and dangerous regions. + </p> + <p> + A disease, which Captain Bonneville supposed to be pneumonia, now appeared + among the Indians, carrying off numbers of them after an illness of three + or four days. The worthy captain acted as physician, prescribing profuse + sweatings and copious bleedings, and uniformly with success, if the + patient were subsequently treated with proper care. In extraordinary + cases, the poor savages called in the aid of their own doctors or + conjurors, who officiated with great noise and mummery, but with little + benefit. Those who died during this epidemic were buried in graves, after + the manner of the whites, but without any regard to the direction of the + head. It is a fact worthy of notice that, while this malady made such + ravages among the natives, not a single white man had the slightest + symptom of it. + </p> + <p> + A familiar intercourse of some standing with the Pierced-nose and Flathead + Indians had now convinced Captain Bonneville of their amicable and + inoffensive character; he began to take a strong interest in them, and + conceived the idea of becoming a pacificator, and healing the deadly feud + between them and the Blackfeet, in which they were so deplorably the + sufferers. He proposed the matter to some of the leaders, and urged that + they should meet the Blackfeet chiefs in a grand pacific conference, + offering to send two of his men to the enemy’s camp with pipe, tobacco and + flag of truce, to negotiate the proposed meeting. + </p> + <p> + The Nez Perces and Flathead sages upon this held a council of war of two + days’ duration, in which there was abundance of hard smoking and long + talking, and both eloquence and tobacco were nearly exhausted. At length + they came to a decision to reject the worthy captain’s proposition, and + upon pretty substantial grounds, as the reader may judge. + </p> + <p> + “War,” said the chiefs, “is a bloody business, and full of evil; but it + keeps the eyes of the chiefs always open, and makes the limbs of the young + men strong and supple. In war, every one is on the alert. If we see a + trail we know it must be an enemy; if the Blackfeet come to us, we know it + is for war, and we are ready. Peace, on the other hand, sounds no alarm; + the eyes of the chiefs are closed in sleep, and the young men are sleek + and lazy. The horses stray into the mountains; the women and their little + babes go about alone. But the heart of a Blackfoot is a lie, and his + tongue is a trap. If he says peace it is to deceive; he comes to us as a + brother; he smokes his pipe with us; but when he sees us weak, and off our + guard, he will slay and steal. We will have no such peace; let there be + war!” + </p> + <p> + With this reasoning Captain Bonneville was fain to acquiesce; but, since + the sagacious Flatheads and their allies were content to remain in a state + of warfare, he wished them at least to exercise the boasted vigilance + which war was to produce, and to keep their eyes open. He represented to + them the impossibility that two such considerable clans could move about + the country without leaving trails by which they might be traced. Besides, + among the Blackfeet braves were several Nez Perces, who had been taken + prisoners in early youth, adopted by their captors, and trained up and + imbued with warlike and predatory notions; these had lost all sympathies + with their native tribe, and would be prone to lead the enemy to their + secret haunts. He exhorted them, therefore, to keep upon the alert, and + never to remit their vigilance while within the range of so crafty and + cruel a foe. All these counsels were lost upon his easy and simple-minded + hearers. A careless indifference reigned throughout their encampments, and + their horses were permitted to range the hills at night in perfect + freedom. Captain Bonneville had his own horses brought in at night, and + properly picketed and guarded. The evil he apprehended soon took place. In + a single night a swoop was made through the neighboring pastures by the + Blackfeet, and eighty-six of the finest horses carried off. A whip and a + rope were left in a conspicuous situation by the robbers, as a taunt to + the simpletons they had unhorsed. + </p> + <p> + Long before sunrise the news of this calamity spread like wildfire through + the different encampments. Captain Bonneville, whose own horses remained + safe at their pickets, watched in momentary expectation of an outbreak of + warriors, Pierced-nose and Flathead, in furious pursuit of the marauders; + but no such thing—they contented themselves with searching + diligently over hill and dale, to glean up such horses as had escaped the + hands of the marauders, and then resigned themselves to their loss with + the most exemplary quiescence. + </p> + <p> + Some, it is true, who were entirely unhorsed, set out on a begging visit + to their cousins, as they called them, the Lower Nez Perces, who inhabit + the lower country about the Columbia, and possess horses in abundance. To + these they repair when in difficulty, and seldom fail, by dint of begging + and bartering, to get themselves once more mounted on horseback. + </p> + <p> + Game had now become scarce in the neighborhood of the camp, and it was + necessary, according to Indian custom, to move off to a less beaten + ground. Captain Bonneville proposed the Horse Prairie; but his Indian + friends objected that many of the Nez Perces had gone to visit their + cousins, and that the whites were few in number, so that their united + force was not sufficient to Venture upon the buffalo grounds, which were + infested by bands of Blackfeet. + </p> + <p> + They now spoke of a place at no great distance, which they represented as + a perfect hunter’s elysium. It was on the right branch, or head stream of + the river, locked up among cliffs and precipices where there was no danger + from roving bands, and where the Blackfeet dare not enter. Here, they + said, the elk abounded, and the mountain sheep were to be seen trooping + upon the rocks and hills. A little distance beyond it, also, herds of + buffalo were to be met with, Out of range of danger. Thither they proposed + to move their camp. + </p> + <p> + The proposition pleased the captain, who was desirous, through the + Indians, of becoming acquainted with all the secret places of the land. + Accordingly, on the 9th of December, they struck their tents, and moved + forward by short stages, as many of the Indians were yet feeble from the + late malady. + </p> + <p> + Following up the right fork of the river they came to where it entered a + deep gorge of the mountains, up which lay the secluded region so much + valued by the Indians. Captain Bonneville halted and encamped for three + days before entering the gorge. In the meantime he detached five of his + free trappers to scour the hills, and kill as many elk as possible, before + the main body should enter, as they would then be soon frightened away by + the various Indian hunting parties. + </p> + <p> + While thus encamped, they were still liable to the marauds of the + Blackfeet, and Captain Bonneville admonished his Indian friends to be upon + their guard. The Nez Perces, however, notwithstanding their recent loss, + were still careless of their horses; merely driving them to some secluded + spot, and leaving them there for the night, without setting any guard upon + them. The consequence was a second swoop, in which forty-one were carried + off. This was borne with equal philosophy with the first, and no effort + was made either to recover the horses, or to take vengeance on the + thieves. + </p> + <p> + The Nez Perces, however, grew more cautious with respect to their + remaining horses, driving them regularly to the camp every evening, and + fastening them to pickets. Captain Bonneville, however, told them that + this was not enough. It was evident they were dogged by a daring and + persevering enemy, who was encouraged by past impunity; they should, + therefore, take more than usual precautions, and post a guard at night + over their cavalry. They could not, however, be persuaded to depart from + their usual custom. The horse once picketed, the care of the owner was + over for the night, and he slept profoundly. None waked in the camp but + the gamblers, who, absorbed in their play, were more difficult to be + roused to external circumstances than even the sleepers. + </p> + <p> + The Blackfeet are bold enemies, and fond of hazardous exploits. The band + that were hovering about the neighborhood, finding that they had such + pacific people to deal with, redoubled their daring. The horses being now + picketed before the lodges, a number of Blackfeet scouts penetrated in the + early part of the night into the very centre of the camp. Here they went + about among the lodges as calmly and deliberately as if at home, quietly + cutting loose the horses that stood picketed by the lodges of their + sleeping owners. One of these prowlers, more adventurous than the rest, + approached a fire round which a group of Nez Perces were gambling with the + most intense eagerness. Here he stood for some time, muffled up in his + robe, peering over the shoulders of the players, watching the changes of + their countenances and the fluctuations of the game. So completely + engrossed were they, that the presence of this muffled eaves-dropper was + unnoticed and, having executed his bravado, he retired undiscovered. + </p> + <p> + Having cut loose as many horses as they could conveniently carry off, the + Blackfeet scouts rejoined their comrades, and all remained patiently round + the camp. By degrees the horses, finding themselves at liberty, took their + route toward their customary grazing ground. As they emerged from the camp + they were silently taken possession of, until, having secured about + thirty, the Blackfeet sprang on their backs and scampered off. The clatter + of hoofs startled the gamblers from their game. They gave the alarm, which + soon roused the sleepers from every lodge. Still all was quiescent; no + marshalling of forces, no saddling of steeds and dashing off in pursuit, + no talk of retribution for their repeated outrages. The patience of + Captain Bonneville was at length exhausted. He had played the part of a + pacificator without success; he now altered his tone, and resolved, if + possible, to rouse their war spirit. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, convoking their chiefs, he inveighed against their craven + policy, and urged the necessity of vigorous and retributive measures that + would check the confidence and presumption of their enemies, if not + inspire them with awe. For this purpose, he advised that a war party + should be immediately sent off on the trail of the marauders, to follow + them, if necessary, into the very heart of the Blackfoot country, and not + to leave them until they had taken signal vengeance. Beside this, he + recommended the organization of minor war parties, to make reprisals to + the extent of the losses sustained. “Unless you rouse yourselves from your + apathy,” said he, “and strike some bold and decisive blow, you will cease + to be considered men, or objects of manly warfare. The very squaws and + children of the Blackfeet will be set against you, while their warriors + reserve themselves for nobler antagonists.” + </p> + <p> + This harangue had evidently a momentary effect upon the pride of the + hearers. After a short pause, however, one of the orators arose. It was + bad, he said, to go to war for mere revenge. The Great Spirit had given + them a heart for peace, not for war. They had lost horses, it was true, + but they could easily get others from their cousins, the Lower Nez Perces, + without incurring any risk; whereas, in war they should lose men, who were + not so readily replaced. As to their late losses, an increased + watchfulness would prevent any more misfortunes of the kind. He + disapproved, therefore, of all hostile measures; and all the other chiefs + concurred in his opinion. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville again took up the point. “It is true,” said he, “the + Great Spirit has given you a heart to love your friends; but he has also + given you an arm to strike your enemies. Unless you do something speedily + to put an end to this continual plundering, I must say farewell. As yet I + have sustained no loss; thanks to the precautions which you have slighted; + but my property is too unsafe here; my turn will come next; I and my + people will share the contempt you are bringing upon yourselves, and will + be thought, like you, poor-spirited beings, who may at any time be + plundered with impunity.” + </p> + <p> + The conference broke up with some signs of excitement on the part of the + Indians. Early the next morning, a party of thirty men set off in pursuit + of the foe, and Captain Bonneville hoped to hear a good account of the + Blackfeet marauders. To his disappointment, the war party came lagging + back on the following day, leading a few old, sorry, broken-down horses, + which the free-booters had not been able to urge to sufficient speed. This + effort exhausted the martial spirit, and satisfied the wounded pride of + the Nez Perces, and they relapsed into their usual state of passive + indifference. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0014" id="link2H_4_0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 13. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Story of Kosato, the Renegade Blackfoot. +</pre> + <p> + IF the meekness and long-suffering of the Pierced-noses grieved the spirit + of Captain Bonneville, there was another individual in the camp to whom + they were still more annoying. This was a Blackfoot renegado, named + Kosato, a fiery hot-blooded youth who, with a beautiful girl of the same + tribe, had taken refuge among the Nez Perces. Though adopted into the + tribe, he still retained the warlike spirit of his race, and loathed the + peaceful, inoffensive habits of those around him. The hunting of the deer, + the elk, and the buffalo, which was the height of their ambition, was too + tame to satisfy his wild and restless nature. His heart burned for the + foray, the ambush, the skirmish, the scamper, and all the haps and hazards + of roving and predatory warfare. + </p> + <p> + The recent hoverings of the Blackfeet about the camp, their nightly prowls + and daring and successful marauds, had kept him in a fever and a flutter, + like a hawk in a cage who hears his late companions swooping and screaming + in wild liberty above him. The attempt of Captain Bonneville to rouse the + war spirit of the Nez Perces, and prompt them to retaliation, was ardently + seconded by Kosato. For several days he was incessantly devising schemes + of vengeance, and endeavoring to set on foot an expedition that should + carry dismay and desolation into the Blackfeet town. All his art was + exerted to touch upon those springs of human action with which he was most + familiar. He drew the listening savages round him by his nervous + eloquence; taunted them with recitals of past wrongs and insults; drew + glowing pictures of triumphs and trophies within their reach; recounted + tales of daring and romantic enterprise, of secret marchings, covert + lurkings, midnight surprisals, sackings, burnings, plunderings, scalpings; + together with the triumphant return, and the feasting and rejoicing of the + victors. These wild tales were intermingled with the beating of the drum, + the yell, the war-whoop and the war-dance, so inspiring to Indian valor. + All, however, were lost upon the peaceful spirits of his hearers; not a + Nez Perce was to be roused to vengeance, or stimulated to glorious war. In + the bitterness of his heart, the Blackfoot renegade repined at the mishap + which had severed him from a race of congenial spirits, and driven him to + take refuge among beings so destitute of martial fire. + </p> + <p> + The character and conduct of this man attracted the attention of Captain + Bonneville, and he was anxious to hear the reason why he had deserted his + tribe, and why he looked back upon them with such deadly hostility. Kosato + told him his own story briefly: it gives a picture of the deep, strong + passions that work in the bosoms of these miscalled stoics. + </p> + <p> + “You see my wife,” said he, “she is good; she is beautiful—I love + her. Yet she has been the cause of all my troubles. She was the wife of my + chief. I loved her more than he did; and she knew it. We talked together; + we laughed together; we were always seeking each other’s society; but we + were as innocent as children. The chief grew jealous, and commanded her to + speak with me no more. His heart became hard toward her; his jealousy grew + more furious. He beat her without cause and without mercy; and threatened + to kill her outright if she even looked at me. Do you want traces of his + fury? Look at that scar! His rage against me was no less persecuting. War + parties of the Crows were hovering round us; our young men had seen their + trail. All hearts were roused for action; my horses were before my lodge. + Suddenly the chief came, took them to his own pickets, and called them his + own. What could I do? he was a chief. I durst not speak, but my heart was + burning. I joined no longer in the council, the hunt, or the war-feast. + What had I to do there? an unhorsed, degraded warrior. I kept by myself, + and thought of nothing but these wrongs and outrages. + </p> + <p> + “I was sitting one evening upon a knoll that overlooked the meadow where + the horses were pastured. I saw the horses that were once mine grazing + among those of the chief. This maddened me, and I sat brooding for a time + over the injuries I had suffered, and the cruelties which she I loved had + endured for my sake, until my heart swelled and grew sore, and my teeth + were clinched. As I looked down upon the meadow I saw the chief walking + among his horses. I fastened my eyes upon him as a hawk’s; my blood + boiled; I drew my breath hard. He went among the willows. In an instant I + was on my feet; my hand was on my knife—I flew rather than ran—before + he was aware I sprang upon him, and with two blows laid him dead at my + feet. I covered his body with earth, and strewed bushes over the place; + then I hastened to her I loved, told her what I had done, and urged her to + fly with me. She only answered me with tears. I reminded her of the wrongs + I had suffered, and of the blows and stripes she had endured from the + deceased; I had done nothing but an act of justice. I again urged her to + fly; but she only wept the more, and bade me go. My heart was heavy, but + my eyes were dry. I folded my arms. ‘’Tis well,’ said I; ‘Kosato will go + alone to the desert. None will be with him but the wild beasts of the + desert. The seekers of blood may follow on his trail. They may come upon + him when he sleeps and glut their revenge; but you will be safe. Kosato + will go alone.’ + </p> + <p> + “I turned away. She sprang after me, and strained me in her arms. ‘No,’ + she cried, ‘Kosato shall not go alone! Wherever he goes I will go—he + shall never part from me.’ + </p> + <p> + “We hastily took in our hands such things as we most needed, and stealing + quietly from the village, mounted the first horses we encountered. + Speeding day and night, we soon reached this tribe. They received us with + welcome, and we have dwelt with them in peace. They are good and kind; + they are honest; but their hearts are the hearts of women.” + </p> + <p> + Such was the story of Kosato, as related by him to Captain Bonneville. It + is of a kind that often occurs in Indian life; where love elopements from + tribe to tribe are as frequent as among the novel-read heroes and heroines + of sentimental civilization, and often give rise to bloods and lasting + feuds. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0015" id="link2H_4_0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 14. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The party enters the mountain gorge—A wild fastness among + hills—Mountain mutton—Peace and plenty—The amorous + trapper-A piebald wedding—A free trapper’s wife—Her gala + equipments—Christmas in the wilderness. +</pre> + <p> + ON the 19th of December Captain Bonneville and his confederate Indians + raised their camp, and entered the narrow gorge made by the north fork of + Salmon River. Up this lay the secure and plenteous hunting region so + temptingly described by the Indians. + </p> + <p> + Since leaving Green River the plains had invariably been of loose sand or + coarse gravel, and the rocky formation of the mountains of primitive + limestone. The rivers, in general, were skirted with willows and bitter + cottonwood trees, and the prairies covered with wormwood. In the hollow + breast of the mountains which they were now penetrating, the surrounding + heights were clothed with pine; while the declivities of the lower hills + afforded abundance of bunch grass for the horses. + </p> + <p> + As the Indians had represented, they were now in a natural fastness of the + mountains, the ingress and egress of which was by a deep gorge, so narrow, + rugged, and difficult as to prevent secret approach or rapid retreat, and + to admit of easy defence. The Blackfeet, therefore, refrained from + venturing in after the Nez Perces, awaiting a better chance, when they + should once more emerge into the open country. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville soon found that the Indians had not exaggerated the + advantages of this region. Besides the numerous gangs of elk, large flocks + of the ahsahta or bighorn, the mountain sheep, were to be seen bounding + among the precipices. These simple animals were easily circumvented and + destroyed. A few hunters may surround a flock and kill as many as they + please. Numbers were daily brought into camp, and the flesh of those which + were young and fat was extolled as superior to the finest mutton. + </p> + <p> + Here, then, there was a cessation from toil, from hunger, and alarm. Past + ills and dangers were forgotten. The hunt, the game, the song, the story, + the rough though good-humored joke, made time pass joyously away, and + plenty and security reigned throughout the camp. + </p> + <p> + Idleness and ease, it is said, lead to love, and love to matrimony, in + civilized life, and the same process takes place in the wilderness. Filled + with good cheer and mountain mutton, one of the free trappers began to + repine at the solitude of his lodge, and to experience the force of that + great law of nature, “it is not meet for man to live alone.” + </p> + <p> + After a night of grave cogitation he repaired to Kowsoter, the + Pierced-nose chief, and unfolded to him the secret workings of his bosom. + </p> + <p> + “I want,” said he, “a wife. Give me one from among your tribe. Not a + young, giddy-pated girl, that will think of nothing but flaunting and + finery, but a sober, discreet, hard-working squaw; one that will share my + lot without flinching, however hard it may be; that can take care of my + lodge, and be a companion and a helpmate to me in the wilderness.” + Kowsoter promised to look round among the females of his tribe, and + procure such a one as he desired. Two days were requisite for the search. + At the expiration of these, Kowsoter, called at his lodge, and informed + him that he would bring his bride to him in the course of the afternoon. + He kept his word. At the appointed time he approached, leading the bride, + a comely copper-colored dame attired in her Indian finery. Her father, + mother, brothers by the half dozen and cousins by the score, all followed + on to grace the ceremony and greet the new and important relative. + </p> + <p> + The trapper received his new and numerous family connection with proper + solemnity; he placed his bride beside him, and, filling the pipe, the + great symbol of peace, with his best tobacco, took two or three whiffs, + then handed it to the chief who transferred it to the father of the bride, + from whom it was passed on from hand to hand and mouth to mouth of the + whole circle of kinsmen round the fire, all maintaining the most profound + and becoming silence. + </p> + <p> + After several pipes had been filled and emptied in this solemn ceremonial, + the chief addressed the bride, detailing at considerable length the duties + of a wife which, among Indians, are little less onerous than those of the + pack-horse; this done, he turned to her friends and congratulated them + upon the great alliance she had made. They showed a due sense of their + good fortune, especially when the nuptial presents came to be distributed + among the chiefs and relatives, amounting to about one hundred and eighty + dollars. The company soon retired, and now the worthy trapper found indeed + that he had no green girl to deal with; for the knowing dame at once + assumed the style and dignity of a trapper’s wife: taking possession of + the lodge as her undisputed empire, arranging everything according to her + own taste and habitudes, and appearing as much at home and on as easy + terms with the trapper as if they had been man and wife for years. + </p> + <p> + We have already given a picture of a free trapper and his horse, as + furnished by Captain Bonneville: we shall here subjoin, as a companion + picture, his description of a free trapper’s wife, that the reader may + have a correct idea of the kind of blessing the worthy hunter in question + had invoked to solace him in the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + “The free trapper, while a bachelor, has no greater pet than his horse; + but the moment he takes a wife (a sort of brevet rank in matrimony + occasionally bestowed upon some Indian fair one, like the heroes of + ancient chivalry in the open field), he discovers that he has a still more + fanciful and capricious animal on which to lavish his expenses. + </p> + <p> + “No sooner does an Indian belle experience this promotion, than all her + notions at once rise and expand to the dignity of her situation, and the + purse of her lover, and his credit into the bargain, are taxed to the + utmost to fit her out in becoming style. The wife of a free trapper to be + equipped and arrayed like any ordinary and undistinguished squaw? Perish + the grovelling thought! In the first place, she must have a horse for her + own riding; but no jaded, sorry, earth-spirited hack, such as is sometimes + assigned by an Indian husband for the transportation of his squaw and her + pappooses: the wife of a free trader must have the most beautiful animal + she can lay her eyes on. And then, as to his decoration: headstall, + breast-bands, saddle and crupper are lavishly embroidered with beads, and + hung with thimbles, hawks’ bells, and bunches of ribbons. From each side + of the saddle hangs an esquimoot, a sort of pocket, in which she bestows + the residue of her trinkets and nick-nacks, which cannot be crowded on the + decoration of her horse or herself. Over this she folds, with great care, + a drapery of scarlet and bright-colored calicoes, and now considers the + caparison of her steed complete. + </p> + <p> + “As to her own person, she is even still more extravagant. Her hair, + esteemed beautiful in proportion to its length, is carefully plaited, and + made to fall with seeming negligence over either breast. Her riding hat is + stuck full of parti-colored feathers; her robe, fashioned somewhat after + that of the whites, is of red, green, and sometimes gray cloth, but always + of the finest texture that can be procured. Her leggings and moccasins are + of the most beautiful and expensive workman-ship, and fitted neatly to the + foot and ankle, which with the Indian woman are generally well formed and + delicate. Then as to jewelry: in the way of finger-rings, ear-rings, + necklaces, and other female glories, nothing within reach of the trapper’s + means is omitted that can tend to impress the beholder with an idea of the + lady’s high estate. To finish the whole, she selects from among her + blankets of various dyes one of some glowing color, and throwing it over + her shoulders with a native grace, vaults into the saddle of her gay, + prancing steed, and is ready to follow her mountaineer ‘to the last gasp + with love and loyalty.’” + </p> + <p> + Such is the general picture of the free trapper’s wife, given by Captain + Bonneville; how far it applied in its details to the one in question does + not altogether appear, though it would seem from the outset of her + connubial career, that she was ready to avail herself of all the pomp and + circumstance of her new condition. It is worthy of mention that wherever + there are several wives of free trappers in a camp, the keenest rivalry + exists between them, to the sore detriment of their husbands’ purses. + Their whole time is expended and their ingenuity tasked by endeavors to + eclipse each other in dress and decoration. The jealousies and + heart-burnings thus occasioned among these so-styled children of nature + are equally intense with those of the rival leaders of style and fashion + in the luxurious abodes of civilized life. + </p> + <p> + The genial festival of Christmas, which throughout all Christendom lights + up the fireside of home with mirth and jollity, followed hard upon the + wedding just described. Though far from kindred and friends, Captain + Bonneville and his handful of free trappers were not disposed to suffer + the festival to pass unenjoyed; they were in a region of good cheer, and + were disposed to be joyous; so it was determined to “light up the yule + clog,” and celebrate a merry Christmas in the heart of the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + On Christmas eve, accordingly, they began their rude fetes and rejoicings. + In the course of the night the free trappers surrounded the lodge of the + Pierced-nose chief and in lieu of Christmas carols, saluted him with a + feude joie. + </p> + <p> + Kowsoter received it in a truly Christian spirit, and after a speech, in + which he expressed his high gratification at the honor done him, invited + the whole company to a feast on the following day. His invitation was + gladly accepted. A Christmas dinner in the wigwam of an Indian chief! + There was novelty in the idea. Not one failed to be present. The banquet + was served up in primitive style: skins of various kinds, nicely dressed + for the occasion, were spread upon the ground; upon these were heaped up + abundance of venison, elk meat, and mountain mutton, with various bitter + roots which the Indians use as condiments. + </p> + <p> + After a short prayer, the company all seated themselves cross-legged, in + Turkish fashion, to the banquet, which passed off with great hilarity. + After which various games of strength and agility by both white men and + Indians closed the Christmas festivities. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0016" id="link2H_4_0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 15. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A hunt after hunters—Hungry times—A voracious repast— + Wintry weather—Godin’s River—Splendid winter scene on the + great—Lava Plain of Snake River—Severe travelling and + tramping in the snow—Manoeuvres of a solitary Indian + horseman—Encampment on Snake River—Banneck Indians—The + horse chief—His charmed life. +</pre> + <p> + THE continued absence of Matthieu and his party had, by this time, caused + great uneasiness in the mind of Captain Bonneville; and, finding there was + no dependence to be placed upon the perseverance and courage of scouting + parties in so perilous a quest, he determined to set out himself on the + search, and to keep on until he should ascertain something of the object + of his solicitude. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly on the 20th December he left the camp, accompanied by thirteen + stark trappers and hunters, all well mounted and armed for dangerous + enterprise. On the following morning they passed out at the head of the + mountain gorge and sallied forth into the open plain. As they confidently + expected a brush with the Blackfeet, or some other predatory horde, they + moved with great circumspection, and kept vigilant watch in their + encampments. + </p> + <p> + In the course of another day they left the main branch of Salmon River, + and proceeded south toward a pass called John Day’s defile. It was severe + and arduous travelling. The plains were swept by keen and bitter blasts of + wintry wind; the ground was generally covered with snow, game was scarce, + so that hunger generally prevailed in the camp, while the want of + pasturage soon began to manifest itself in the declining vigor of the + horses. + </p> + <p> + The party had scarcely encamped on the afternoon of the 28th, when two of + the hunters who had sallied forth in quest of game came galloping back in + great alarm. While hunting they had perceived a party of savages, + evidently manoeuvring to cut them off from the camp; and nothing had saved + them from being entrapped but the speed of their horses. + </p> + <p> + These tidings struck dismay into the camp. Captain Bonneville endeavored + to reassure his men by representing the position of their encampment, and + its capability of defence. He then ordered the horses to be driven in and + picketed, and threw up a rough breastwork of fallen trunks of trees and + the vegetable rubbish of the wilderness. Within this barrier was + maintained a vigilant watch throughout the night, which passed away + without alarm. At early dawn they scrutinized the surrounding plain, to + discover whether any enemies had been lurking about during the night; not + a foot-print, however, was to be discovered in the coarse gravel with + which the plain was covered. + </p> + <p> + Hunger now began to cause more uneasiness than the apprehensions of + surrounding enemies. After marching a few miles they encamped at the foot + of a mountain, in hopes of finding buffalo. It was not until the next day + that they discovered a pair of fine bulls on the edge of the plain, among + rocks and ravines. Having now been two days and a half without a mouthful + of food, they took especial care that these animals should not escape + them. While some of the surest marksmen advanced cautiously with their + rifles into the rough ground, four of the best mounted horsemen took their + stations in the plain, to run the bulls down should they only be maimed. + </p> + <p> + The buffalo were wounded and set off in headlong flight. The half-famished + horses were too weak to overtake them on the frozen ground, but succeeded + in driving them on the ice, where they slipped and fell, and were easily + dispatched. The hunters loaded themselves with beef for present and future + supply, and then returned and encamped at the last nights’s fire. Here + they passed the remainder of the day, cooking and eating with a voracity + proportioned to previous starvation, forgetting in the hearty revel of the + moment the certain dangers with which they were environed. + </p> + <p> + The cravings of hunger being satisfied, they now began to debate about + their further progress. The men were much disheartened by the hardships + they had already endured. Indeed, two who had been in the rear guard, + taking advantage of their position, had deserted and returned to the + lodges of the Nez Perces. The prospect ahead was enough to stagger the + stoutest heart. They were in the dead of winter. As far as the eye could + reach the wild landscape was wrapped in snow, which was evidently + deepening as they advanced. Over this they would have to toil, with the + icy wind blowing in their faces: their horses might give out through want + of pasturage, and they themselves must expect intervals of horrible famine + like that they had already experienced. + </p> + <p> + With Captain Bonneville, however, perseverance was a matter of pride; and, + having undertaken this enterprise, nothing could turn him back until it + was accomplished: though he declares that, had he anticipated the + difficulties and sufferings which attended it, he should have flinched + from the undertaking. + </p> + <p> + Onward, therefore, the little band urged their way, keeping along the + course of a stream called John Day’s Creek. The cold was so intense that + they had frequently to dismount and travel on foot, lest they should + freeze in their saddles. The days which at this season are short enough + even in the open prairies, were narrowed to a few hours by the high + mountains, which allowed the travellers but a brief enjoyment of the + cheering rays of the sun. The snow was generally at least twenty inches in + depth, and in many places much more: those who dismounted had to beat + their way with toilsome steps. Eight miles were considered a good day’s + journey. The horses were almost famished; for the herbage was covered by + the deep snow, so that they had nothing to subsist upon but scanty wisps + of the dry bunch grass which peered above the surface, and the small + branches and twigs of frozen willows and wormwood. + </p> + <p> + In this way they urged their slow and painful course to the south down + John Day’s Creek, until it lost itself in a swamp. Here they encamped upon + the ice among stiffened willows, where they were obliged to beat down and + clear away the snow to procure pasturage for their horses. + </p> + <p> + Hence they toiled on to Godin River; so called after an Iroquois hunter in + the service of Sublette, who was murdered there by the Blackfeet. Many of + the features of this remote wilderness are thus named after scenes of + violence and bloodshed that occurred to the early pioneers. It was an act + of filial vengeance on the part of Godin’s son Antoine that, as the reader + may recollect, brought on the recent battle at Pierre’s Hole. + </p> + <p> + From Godin’s River, Captain Bonneville and his followers came out upon the + plain of the Three Butes, so called from three singular and isolated hills + that rise from the midst. It is a part of the great desert of Snake River, + one of the most remarkable tracts beyond the mountains. Could they have + experienced a respite from their sufferings and anxieties, the immense + landscape spread out before them was calculated to inspire admiration. + Winter has its beauties and glories as well as summer; and Captain + Bonneville had the soul to appreciate them. + </p> + <p> + Far away, says he, over the vast plains, and up the steep sides of the + lofty mountains, the snow lay spread in dazzling whiteness: and whenever + the sun emerged in the morning above the giant peaks, or burst forth from + among clouds in his midday course, mountain and dell, glazed rock and + frosted tree, glowed and sparkled with surpassing lustre. The tall pines + seemed sprinkled with a silver dust, and the willows, studded with minute + icicles reflecting the prismatic rays, brought to mind the fairy trees + conjured up by the caliph’s story-teller to adorn his vale of diamonds. + </p> + <p> + The poor wanderers, however, nearly starved with hunger and cold, were in + no mood to enjoy the glories of these brilliant scenes; though they + stamped pictures on their memory which have been recalled with delight in + more genial situations. + </p> + <p> + Encamping at the west Bute, they found a place swept by the winds, so that + it was bare of snow, and there was abundance of bunch grass. Here the + horses were turned loose to graze throughout the night. Though for once + they had ample pasturage, yet the keen winds were so intense that, in the + morning, a mule was found frozen to death. The trappers gathered round and + mourned over him as over a cherished friend. They feared their + half-famished horses would soon share his fate, for there seemed scarce + blood enough left in their veins to withstand the freezing cold. To beat + the way further through the snow with these enfeebled animals seemed next + to impossible; and despondency began to creep over their hearts, when, + fortunately, they discovered a trail made by some hunting party. Into this + they immediately entered, and proceeded with less difficulty. Shortly + afterward, a fine buffalo bull came bounding across the snow and was + instantly brought down by the hunters. A fire was soon blazing and + crackling, and an ample repast soon cooked, and sooner dispatched; after + which they made some further progress and then encamped. One of the men + reached the camp nearly frozen to death; but good cheer and a blazing fire + gradually restored life, and put his blood in circulation. + </p> + <p> + Having now a beaten path, they proceeded the next morning with more + facility; indeed, the snow decreased in depth as they receded from the + mountains, and the temperature became more mild. In the course of the day + they discovered a solitary horseman hovering at a distance before them on + the plain. They spurred on to overtake him; but he was better mounted on a + fresher steed, and kept at a wary distance, reconnoitring them with + evident distrust; for the wild dress of the free trappers, their leggings, + blankets, and cloth caps garnished with fur and topped off with feathers, + even their very elf-locks and weather-bronzed complexions, gave them the + look of Indians rather than white men, and made him mistake them for a war + party of some hostile tribe. + </p> + <p> + After much manoeuvring, the wild horseman was at length brought to a + parley; but even then he conducted himself with the caution of a knowing + prowler of the prairies. Dismounting from his horse, and using him as a + breastwork, he levelled his gun across his back, and, thus prepared for + defence like a wary cruiser upon the high seas, he permitted himself to be + approached within speaking distance. + </p> + <p> + He proved to be an Indian of the Banneck tribe, belonging to a band at no + great distance. It was some time before he could be persuaded that he was + conversing with a party of white men and induced to lay aside his reserve + and join them. He then gave them the interesting intelligence that there + were two companies of white men encamped in the neighborhood. This was + cheering news to Captain Bonneville; who hoped to find in one of them the + long-sought party of Matthieu. Pushing forward, therefore, with renovated + spirits, he reached Snake River by nightfall, and there fixed his + encampment. + </p> + <p> + Early the next morning (13th January, 1833), diligent search was made + about the neighborhood for traces of the reported parties of white men. An + encampment was soon discovered about four miles farther up the river, in + which Captain Bonneville to his great joy found two of Matthieu’s men, + from whom he learned that the rest of his party would be there in the + course of a few days. It was a matter of great pride and self-gratulation + to Captain Bonneville that he had thus accomplished his dreary and + doubtful enterprise; and he determined to pass some time in this + encampment, both to await the return of Matthieu, and to give needful + repose to men and horses. + </p> + <p> + It was, in fact, one of the most eligible and delightful wintering grounds + in that whole range of country. The Snake River here wound its devious way + between low banks through the great plain of the Three Butes; and was + bordered by wide and fertile meadows. It was studded with islands which, + like the alluvial bottoms, were covered with groves of cotton-wood, + thickets of willow, tracts of good lowland grass, and abundance of green + rushes. The adjacent plains were so vast in extent that no single band of + Indians could drive the buffalo out of them; nor was the snow of + sufficient depth to give any serious inconvenience. Indeed, during the + sojourn of Captain Bonneville in this neighborhood, which was in the heart + of winter, he found the weather, with the exception of a few cold and + stormy days, generally mild and pleasant, freezing a little at night but + invariably thawing with the morning’s sun-resembling the spring weather in + the middle parts of the United States. + </p> + <p> + The lofty range of the Three Tetons, those great landmarks of the Rocky + Mountains rising in the east and circling away to the north and west of + the great plain of Snake River, and the mountains of Salt River and + Portneuf toward the south, catch the earliest falls of snow. Their white + robes lengthen as the winter advances, and spread themselves far into the + plain, driving the buffalo in herds to the banks of the river in quest of + food; where they are easily slain in great numbers. + </p> + <p> + Such were the palpable advantages of this winter encampment; added to + which, it was secure from the prowlings and plunderings of any petty band + of roving Blackfeet, the difficulties of retreat rendering it unwise for + those crafty depredators to venture an attack unless with an overpowering + force. + </p> + <p> + About ten miles below the encampment lay the Banneck Indians; numbering + about one hundred and twenty lodges. They are brave and cunning warriors + and deadly foes of the Blackfeet, whom they easily overcome in battles + where their forces are equal. They are not vengeful and enterprising in + warfare, however; seldom sending war parties to attack the Blackfeet + towns, but contenting themselves with defending their own territories and + house. About one third of their warriors are armed with fusees, the rest + with bows and arrows. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the spring opens they move down the right bank of Snake River + and encamp at the heads of the Boisee and Payette. Here their horses wax + fat on good pasturage, while the tribe revels in plenty upon the flesh of + deer, elk, bear, and beaver. They then descend a little further, and are + met by the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they trade for horses; giving in + exchange beaver, buffalo, and buffalo robes. Hence they strike upon the + tributary streams on the left bank of Snake River, and encamp at the rise + of the Portneuf and Blackfoot streams, in the buffalo range. Their horses, + although of the Nez Perce breed, are inferior to the parent stock from + being ridden at too early an age, being often bought when but two years + old and immediately put to hard work. They have fewer horses, also, than + most of these migratory tribes. + </p> + <p> + At the time that Captain Bonneville came into the neighborhood of these + Indians, they were all in mourning for their chief, surnamed The Horse. + This chief was said to possess a charmed life, or rather, to be + invulnerable to lead; no bullet having ever hit him, though he had been in + repeated battles, and often shot at by the surest marksmen. He had shown + great magnanimity in his intercourse with the white men. One of the great + men of his family had been slain in an attack upon a band of trappers + passing through the territories of his tribe. Vengeance had been sworn by + the Bannecks; but The Horse interfered, declaring himself the friend of + white men and, having great influence and authority among his people, he + compelled them to forego all vindictive plans and to conduct themselves + amicably whenever they came in contact with the traders. + </p> + <p> + This chief had bravely fallen in resisting an attack made by the Blackfeet + upon his tribe, while encamped at the head of Godin River. His fall in + nowise lessened the faith of his people in his charmed life; for they + declared that it was not a bullet which laid him low, but a bit of horn + which had been shot into him by some Blackfoot marksman aware, no doubt, + of the inefficacy of lead. Since his death there was no one with + sufficient influence over the tribe to restrain the wild and predatory + propensities of the young men. The consequence was they had become + troublesome and dangerous neighbors, openly friendly for the sake of + traffic, but disposed to commit secret depredations and to molest any + small party that might fall within their reach. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0017" id="link2H_4_0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 16. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Misadventures of Matthieu and his party—Return to the + caches at Salmon River—Battle between Nez Perces and Black + feet—Heroism of a Nez Perce woman—Enrolled among the + braves. +</pre> + <p> + ON the 3d of February, Matthieu, with the residue of his band, arrived in + camp. He had a disastrous story to relate. After parting with Captain + Bonneville in Green River Valley he had proceeded to the westward, keeping + to the north of the Eutaw Mountains, a spur of the great Rocky chain. Here + he experienced the most rugged travelling for his horses, and soon + discovered that there was but little chance of meeting the Shoshonie + bands. He now proceeded along Bear River, a stream much frequented by + trappers, intending to shape his course to Salmon River to rejoin Captain + Bonneville. + </p> + <p> + He was misled, however, either through the ignorance or treachery of an + Indian guide, and conducted into a wild valley where he lay encamped + during the autumn and the early part of the winter, nearly buried in snow + and almost starved. Early in the season he detached five men, with nine + horses, to proceed to the neighborhood of the Sheep Rock, on Bear River, + where game was plenty, and there to procure a supply for the camp. + </p> + <p> + They had not proceeded far on their expedition when their trail was + discovered by a party of nine or ten Indians, who immediately commenced a + lurking pursuit, dogging them secretly for five or six days. So long as + their encampments were well chosen and a proper watch maintained the wary + savages kept aloof; at length, observing that they were badly encamped, in + a situation where they might be approached with secrecy, the enemy crept + stealthily along under cover of the river bank, preparing to burst + suddenly upon their prey. + </p> + <p> + They had not advanced within striking distance, however, before they were + discovered by one of the trappers. He immediately but silently gave the + alarm to his companions. They all sprang upon their horses and prepared to + retreat to a safe position. One of the party, however, named Jennings, + doubted the correctness of the alarm, and before he mounted his horse + wanted to ascertain the fact. His companions urged him to mount, but in + vain; he was incredulous and obstinate. A volley of firearms by the + savages dispelled his doubts, but so overpowered his nerves that he was + unable to get into his saddle. His comrades, seeing his peril and + confusion, generously leaped from their horses to protect him. A shot from + a rifle brought him to the earth; in his agony he called upon the others + not to desert him. Two of them, Le Roy and Ross, after fighting + desperately, were captured by the savages; the remaining two vaulted into + their saddles and saved themselves by headlong flight, being pursued for + nearly thirty miles. They got safe back to Matthieu’s camp, where their + story inspired such dread of lurking Indians that the hunters could not be + prevailed upon to undertake another foray in quest of provisions. They + remained, therefore, almost starving in their camp; now and then killing + an old or disabled horse for food, while the elk and the mountain sheep + roamed unmolested among the surrounding mountains. + </p> + <p> + The disastrous surprisal of this hunting party is cited by Captain + Bonneville to show the importance of vigilant watching and judicious + encampments in the Indian country. Most of this kind of disasters to + traders and trappers arise from some careless inattention to the state of + their arms and ammunition, the placing of their horses at night, the + position of their camping ground, and the posting of their night watches. + The Indian is a vigilant and crafty foe, by no means given to hair-brained + assaults; he seldom attacks when he finds his foe well prepared and on the + alert. Caution is at least as efficacious a protection against him as + courage. + </p> + <p> + The Indians who made this attack were at first supposed to be Blackfeet; + until Captain Bonneville found subsequently, in the camp of the Bannecks, + a horse, saddle, and bridle, which he recognized as having belonged to one + of the hunters. The Bannecks, however, stoutly denied having taken these + spoils in fight, and persisted in affirming that the outrage had been + perpetrated by a Blackfoot band. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville remained on Snake River nearly three weeks after the + arrival of Matthieu and his party. At length his horses having recovered + strength sufficient for a journey, he prepared to return to the Nez + Perces, or rather to visit his caches on Salmon River; that he might take + thence goods and equipments for the opening season. Accordingly, leaving + sixteen men at Snake River, he set out on the 19th of February with + sixteen others on his journey to the caches. + </p> + <p> + Fording the river, he proceeded to the borders of the deep snow, when he + encamped under the lee of immense piles of burned rock. On the 21st he was + again floundering through the snow, on the great Snake River plain, where + it lay to the depth of thirty inches. It was sufficiently incrusted to + bear a pedestrian, but the poor horses broke through the crust, and + plunged and strained at every step. So lacerated were they by the ice that + it was necessary to change the front every hundred yards, and put a + different one in advance to break the way. The open prairies were swept by + a piercing and biting wind from the northwest. At night, they had to task + their ingenuity to provide shelter and keep from freezing. In the first + place, they dug deep holes in the snow, piling it up in ramparts to + windward as a protection against the blast. Beneath these they spread + buffalo skins, upon which they stretched themselves in full dress, with + caps, cloaks, and moccasins, and covered themselves with numerous + blankets; notwithstanding all which they were often severely pinched with + the cold. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th of February they arrived on the banks of Godin River. This + stream emerges from the mountains opposite an eastern branch of the Malade + River, running southeast, forms a deep and swift current about twenty + yards wide, passing rapidly through a defile to which it gives its name, + and then enters the great plain where, after meandering about forty miles, + it is finally lost in the region of the Burned Rocks. + </p> + <p> + On the banks of this river Captain Bonneville was so fortunate as to come + upon a buffalo trail. Following it up, he entered the defile, where he + remained encamped for two days to allow the hunters time to kill and dry a + supply of buffalo beef. In this sheltered defile the weather was moderate + and grass was already sprouting more than an inch in height. There was + abundance, too, of the salt weed which grows most plentiful in clayey and + gravelly barrens. It resembles pennyroyal, and derives its name from a + partial saltness. It is a nourishing food for the horses in the winter, + but they reject it the moment the young grass affords sufficient + pasturage. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of March, having cured sufficient meat, the party resumed their + march, and moved on with comparative ease, excepting where they had to + make their way through snow-drifts which had been piled up by the wind. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th, a small cloud of smoke was observed rising in a deep part of + the defile. An encampment was instantly formed and scouts were sent out to + reconnoitre. They returned with intelligence that it was a hunting party + of Flatheads, returning from the buffalo range laden with meat. Captain + Bonneville joined them the next day, and persuaded them to proceed with + his party a few miles below to the caches, whither he proposed also to + invite the Nez Perces, whom he hoped to find somewhere in this + neighborhood. In fact, on the 13th, he was rejoined by that friendly tribe + who, since he separated from them on Salmon River, had likewise been out + to hunt the buffalo, but had continued to be haunted and harassed by their + old enemies the Blackfeet, who, as usual, had contrived to carry off many + of their horses. + </p> + <p> + In the course of this hunting expedition, a small band of ten lodges + separated from the main body in search of better pasturage for their + horses. About the 1st of March, the scattered parties of Blackfoot + banditti united to the number of three hundred fighting men, and + determined upon some signal blow. Proceeding to the former camping ground + of the Nez Perces, they found the lodges deserted; upon which they hid + themselves among the willows and thickets, watching for some straggler who + might guide them to the present “whereabout” of their intended victims. As + fortune would have it Kosato, the Blackfoot renegade, was the first to + pass along, accompanied by his blood-bought bride. He was on his way from + the main body of hunters to the little band of ten lodges. The Blackfeet + knew and marked him as he passed; he was within bowshot of their + ambuscade; yet, much as they thirsted for his blood, they forbore to + launch a shaft; sparing him for the moment that he might lead them to + their prey. Secretly following his trail, they discovered the lodges of + the unfortunate Nez Perces, and assailed them with shouts and yellings. + The Nez Perces numbered only twenty men, and but nine were armed with + fusees. They showed themselves, however, as brave and skilful in war as + they had been mild and long-suffering in peace. Their first care was to + dig holes inside of their lodges; thus ensconced they fought desperately, + laying several of the enemy dead upon the ground; while they, though Some + of them were wounded, lost not a single warrior. + </p> + <p> + During the heat of the battle, a woman of the Nez Perces, seeing her + warrior badly wounded and unable to fight, seized his bow and arrows, and + bravely and successfully defended his person, contributing to the safety + of the whole party. + </p> + <p> + In another part of the field of action, a Nez Perce had crouched behind + the trunk of a fallen tree, and kept up a galling fire from his covert. A + Blackfoot seeing this, procured a round log, and placing it before him as + he lay prostrate, rolled it forward toward the trunk of the tree behind + which his enemy lay crouched. It was a moment of breathless interest; + whoever first showed himself would be in danger of a shot. The Nez Perce + put an end to the suspense. The moment the logs touched he Sprang upon his + feet and discharged the contents of his fusee into the back of his + antagonist. By this time the Blackfeet had got possession of the horses, + several of their warriors lay dead on the field, and the Nez Perces, + ensconced in their lodges, seemed resolved to defend themselves to the + last gasp. It so happened that the chief of the Blackfeet party was a + renegade from the Nez Perces; unlike Kosato, however, he had no vindictive + rage against his native tribe, but was rather disposed, now he had got the + booty, to spare all unnecessary effusion of blood. He held a long parley, + therefore, with the besieged, and finally drew off his warriors, taking + with him seventy horses. It appeared, afterward, that the bullets of the + Blackfeet had been entirely expended in the course of the battle, so that + they were obliged to make use of stones as substitute. + </p> + <p> + At the outset of the fight Kosato, the renegade, fought with fury rather + than valor, animating the others by word as well as deed. A wound in the + head from a rifle ball laid him senseless on the earth. There his body + remained when the battle was over, and the victors were leading off the + horses. His wife hung over him with frantic lamentations. The conquerors + paused and urged her to leave the lifeless renegade, and return with them + to her kindred. She refused to listen to their solicitations, and they + passed on. As she sat watching the features of Kosato, and giving way to + passionate grief, she thought she perceived him to breathe. She was not + mistaken. The ball, which had been nearly spent before it struck him, had + stunned instead of killing him. By the ministry of his faithful wife he + gradually recovered, reviving to a redoubled love for her, and hatred of + his tribe. + </p> + <p> + As to the female who had so bravely defended her husband, she was elevated + by the tribe to a rank far above her sex, and beside other honorable + distinctions, was thenceforward permitted to take a part in the war dances + of the braves! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0018" id="link2H_4_0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 17. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Opening of the caches—Detachments of Cerre and Hodgkiss + Salmon River Mountains—Superstition of an Indian trapper— + Godin’s River—Preparations for trapping—An alarm—An + interruption—A rival band—Phenomena of Snake River Plain + Vast clefts and chasms—Ingulfed streams—Sublime scenery—A + grand buffalo hunt. +</pre> + <p> + CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE found his caches perfectly secure, and having secretly + opened them he selected such articles as were necessary to equip the free + trappers and to supply the inconsiderable trade with the Indians, after + which he closed them again. The free trappers, being newly rigged out and + supplied, were in high spirits, and swaggered gayly about the camp. To + compensate all hands for past sufferings, and to give a cheerful spur to + further operations, Captain Bonneville now gave the men what, in frontier + phrase, is termed “a regular blow-out.” It was a day of uncouth gambols + and frolics and rude feasting. The Indians joined in the sports and games, + and all was mirth and good-fellowship. + </p> + <p> + It was now the middle of March, and Captain Bonneville made preparations + to open the spring campaign. He had pitched upon Malade River for his main + trapping ground for the season. This is a stream which rises among the + great bed of mountains north of the Lava Plain, and after a winding course + falls into Snake River. Previous to his departure the captain dispatched + Mr. Cerre, with a few men, to visit the Indian villages and purchase + horses; he furnished his clerk, Mr. Hodgkiss, also, with a small stock of + goods, to keep up a trade with the Indians during the spring, for such + peltries as they might collect, appointing the caches on Salmon River as + the point of rendezvous, where they were to rejoin him on the 15th of June + following. + </p> + <p> + This done he set out for Malade River, with a band of twenty-eight men + composed of hired and free trappers and Indian hunters, together with + eight squaws. Their route lay up along the right fork of Salmon River, as + it passes through the deep defile of the mountains. They travelled very + slowly, not above five miles a day, for many of the horses were so weak + that they faltered and staggered as they walked. Pasturage, however, was + now growing plentiful. There was abundance of fresh grass, which in some + places had attained such height as to wave in the wind. The native flocks + of the wilderness, the mountain sheep, as they are called by the trappers, + were continually to be seen upon the hills between which they passed, and + a good supply of mutton was provided by the hunters, as they were + advancing toward a region of scarcity. + </p> + <p> + In the course of his journey Captain Bonneville had occasion to remark an + instance of the many notions, and almost superstitions, which prevail + among the Indians, and among some of the white men, with respect to the + sagacity of the beaver. The Indian hunters of his party were in the habit + of exploring all the streams along which they passed, in search of “beaver + lodges,” and occasionally set their traps with some success. One of them, + however, though an experienced and skilful trapper, was invariably + unsuccessful. Astonished and mortified at such unusual bad luck, he at + length conceived the idea that there was some odor about his person of + which the beaver got scent and retreated at his approach. He immediately + set about a thorough purification. Making a rude sweating-house on the + banks of the river, he would shut himself up until in a reeking + perspiration, and then suddenly emerging, would plunge into the river. A + number of these sweatings and plungings having, as he supposed, rendered + his person perfectly “inodorous,” he resumed his trapping with renovated + hope. + </p> + <p> + About the beginning of April they encamped upon Godin’s River, where they + found the swamp full of “musk-rat houses.” Here, therefore, Captain + Bonneville determined to remain a few days and make his first regular + attempt at trapping. That his maiden campaign might open with spirit, he + promised the Indians and free trappers an extra price for every musk-rat + they should take. All now set to work for the next day’s sport. The utmost + animation and gayety prevailed throughout the camp. Everything looked + auspicious for their spring campaign. The abundance of musk-rats in the + swamp was but an earnest of the nobler game they were to find when they + should reach the Malade River, and have a capital beaver country all to + themselves, where they might trap at their leisure without molestation. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of their gayety a hunter came galloping into the camp, + shouting, or rather yelling, “A trail! a trail!—lodge poles! lodge + poles!” + </p> + <p> + These were words full of meaning to a trapper’s ear. They intimated that + there was some band in the neighborhood, and probably a hunting party, as + they had lodge poles for an encampment. The hunter came up and told his + story. He had discovered a fresh trail, in which the traces made by the + dragging of lodge poles were distinctly visible. The buffalo, too, had + just been driven out of the neighborhood, which showed that the hunters + had already been on the range. + </p> + <p> + The gayety of the camp was at an end; all preparations for musk-rat + trapping were suspended, and all hands sallied forth to examine the trail. + Their worst fears were soon confirmed. Infallible signs showed the unknown + party in the advance to be white men; doubtless, some rival band of + trappers! Here was competition when least expected; and that too by a + party already in the advance, who were driving the game before them. + Captain Bonneville had now a taste of the sudden transitions to which a + trapper’s life is subject. The buoyant confidence in an uninterrupted hunt + was at an end; every countenance lowered with gloom and disappointment. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville immediately dispatched two spies to overtake the rival + party, and endeavor to learn their plans; in the meantime, he turned his + back upon the swamp and its musk-rat houses and followed on at “long + camps”, which in trapper’s language is equivalent to long stages. On the + 6th of April he met his spies returning. They had kept on the trail like + hounds until they overtook the party at the south end of Godin’s defile. + Here they found them comfortably encamped: twenty-two prime trappers, all + well appointed, with excellent horses in capital condition led by Milton + Sublette, and an able coadjutor named Jarvie, and in full march for the + Malade hunting ground. This was stunning news. The Malade River was the + only trapping ground within reach; but to have to compete there with + veteran trappers, perfectly at home among the mountains, and admirably + mounted, while they were so poorly provided with horses and trappers, and + had but one man in their party acquainted with the country-it was out of + the question. + </p> + <p> + The only hope that now remained was that the snow, which still lay deep + among the mountains of Godin’s River and blocked up the usual pass to the + Malade country, might detain the other party until Captain Bonneville’s + horses should get once more into good condition in their present ample + pasturage. + </p> + <p> + The rival parties now encamped together, not out of companionship, but to + keep an eye upon each other. Day after day passed by without any + possibility of getting to the Malade country. Sublette and Jarvie + endeavored to force their way across the mountain; but the snows lay so + deep as to oblige them to turn back. In the meantime the captain’s horses + were daily gaining strength, and their hoofs improving, which had been + worn and battered by mountain service. The captain, also was increasing + his stock of provisions; so that the delay was all in his favor. + </p> + <p> + To any one who merely contemplates a map of the country this difficulty of + getting from Godin to Malade River will appear inexplicable, as the + intervening mountains terminate in the great Snake River plain, so that, + apparently, it would be perfectly easy to proceed round their bases. + </p> + <p> + Here, however, occur some of the striking phenomena of this wild and + sublime region. The great lower plain which extends to the feet of these + mountains is broken up near their bases into crests, and ridges resembling + the surges of the ocean breaking on a rocky shore. + </p> + <p> + In a line with the mountains the plain is gashed with numerous and + dangerous chasms, from four to ten feet wide, and of great depth. Captain + Bonneville attempted to sound some of these openings, but without any + satisfactory result. A stone dropped into one of them reverberated against + the sides for apparently a very great depth, and, by its sound, indicated + the same kind of substance with the surface, as long as the strokes could + be heard. The horse, instinctively sagacious in avoiding danger, shrinks + back in alarm from the least of these chasms, pricking up his ears, + snorting and pawing, until permitted to turn away. + </p> + <p> + We have been told by a person well acquainted with the country that it is + sometimes necessary to travel fifty and sixty miles to get round one of + these tremendous ravines. Considerable streams, like that of Godin’s + River, that run with a bold, free current, lose themselves in this plain; + some of them end in swamps, others suddenly disappear, finding, no doubt, + subterranean outlets. + </p> + <p> + Opposite to these chasms Snake River makes two desperate leaps over + precipices, at a short distance from each other; one twenty, the other + forty feet in height. + </p> + <p> + The volcanic plain in question forms an area of about sixty miles in + diameter, where nothing meets the eye but a desolate and awful waste; + where no grass grows nor water runs, and where nothing is to be seen but + lava. Ranges of mountains skirt this plain, and, in Captain Bonneville’s + opinion, were formerly connected, until rent asunder by some convulsion of + nature. Far to the east the Three Tetons lift their heads sublimely, and + dominate this wide sea of lava—one of the most striking features of + a wilderness where everything seems on a scale of stern and simple + grandeur. + </p> + <p> + We look forward with impatience for some able geologist to explore this + sublime but almost unknown region. + </p> + <p> + It was not until the 25th of April that the two parties of trappers broke + up their encampments, and undertook to cross over the southwest end of the + mountain by a pass explored by their scouts. From various points of the + mountain they commanded boundless prospects of the lava plain, stretching + away in cold and gloomy barrenness as far as the eye could reach. On the + evening of the 26th they reached the plain west of the mountain, watered + by the Malade, the Boisee, and other streams, which comprised the + contemplated trapping-ground. + </p> + <p> + The country about the Boisee (or Woody) River is extolled by Captain + Bonneville as the most enchanting he had seen in the Far West, presenting + the mingled grandeur and beauty of mountain and plain, of bright running + streams and vast grassy meadows waving to the breeze. + </p> + <p> + We shall not follow the captain throughout his trapping campaign, which + lasted until the beginning of June, nor detail all the manoeuvres of the + rival trapping parties and their various schemes to outwit and out-trap + each other. Suffice it to say that, after having visited and camped about + various streams with varying success, Captain Bonneville set forward early + in June for the appointed rendezvous at the caches. On the way, he treated + his party to a grand buffalo hunt. The scouts had re ported numerous herds + in a plain beyond an intervening height. There was an immediate halt; the + fleetest horses were forthwith mounted and the party advanced to the + summit of the hill. Hence they beheld the great plain below; absolutely + swarming with buffalo. Captain Bonneville now appointed the place where he + would encamp; and toward which the hunters were to drive the game. He + cautioned the latter to advance slowly, reserving the strength and speed + of the horses until within a moderate distance of the herds. Twenty-two + horsemen descended cautiously into the plain, conformably to these + directions. “It was a beautiful sight,” says the captain, “to see the + runners, as they are called, advancing in column, at a slow trot, until + within two hundred and fifty yards of the outskirts of the herd, then + dashing on at full speed until lost in the immense multitude of buffaloes + scouring the plain in every direction.” All was now tumult and wild + confusion. In the meantime Captain Bonneville and the residue of the party + moved on to the appointed camping ground; thither the most expert runners + succeeded in driving numbers of buffalo, which were killed hard by the + camp, and the flesh transported thither without difficulty. In a little + while the whole camp looked like one great slaughter-house; the carcasses + were skilfully cut up, great fires were made, scaffolds erected for drying + and jerking beef, and an ample provision was made for future subsistence. + On the 15th of June, the precise day appointed for the rendezvous, Captain + Bonneville and his party arrived safely at the caches. + </p> + <p> + Here he was joined by the other detachments of his main party, all in good + health and spirits. The caches were again opened, supplies of various + kinds taken out, and a liberal allowance of aqua vitae distributed + throughout the camp, to celebrate with proper conviviality this merry + meeting. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0019" id="link2H_4_0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 18. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Meeting with Hodgkiss—Misfortunes of the Nez Perces— + Schemes of Kosato, the renegado—His foray into the Horse + Prairie—Invasion of Black feet—Blue John and his forlorn + hope—Their generous enterprise—Their fate—Consternation + and despair of the village—Solemn obsequies—Attempt at + Indian trade—Hudson’s Bay Company’s monopoly—Arrangements + for autumn—Breaking up of an encampment. +</pre> + <p> + HAVING now a pretty strong party, well armed and equipped, Captain + Bonneville no longer felt the necessity of fortifying himself in the + secret places and fastnesses of the mountains; but sallied forth boldly + into the Snake River plain, in search of his clerk, Hodgkiss, who had + remained with the Nez Perces. He found him on the 24th of June, and + learned from him another chapter of misfortunes which had recently + befallen that ill-fated race. + </p> + <p> + After the departure of Captain Bonneville in March, Kosato, the renegade + Blackfoot, had recovered from the wound received in battle; and with his + strength revived all his deadly hostility to his native tribe. He now + resumed his efforts to stir up the Nez Perces to reprisals upon their old + enemies; reminding them incessantly of all the outrages and robberies they + had recently experienced, and assuring them that such would continue to be + their lot until they proved themselves men by some signal retaliation. + </p> + <p> + The impassioned eloquence of the desperado at length produced an effect; + and a band of braves enlisted under his guidance, to penetrate into the + Blackfoot country, harass their Villages, carry off their horses, and + commit all kinds of depredations. + </p> + <p> + Kosato pushed forward on his foray as far as the Horse Prairie, where he + came upon a strong party of Blackfeet. Without waiting to estimate their + force, he attacked them with characteristic fury, and was bravely seconded + by his followers. The contest, for a time, was hot and bloody; at length, + as is customary with these two tribes, they paused, and held a long + parley, or rather a war of words. + </p> + <p> + “What need,” said the Blackfoot chief, tauntingly, “have the Nez Perces to + leave their homes, and sally forth on war parties, when they have danger + enough at their own doors? If you want fighting, return to your villages; + you will have plenty of it there. The Blackfeet warriors have hitherto + made war upon you as children. They are now coming as men. A great force + is at hand; they are on their way to your towns, and are determined to rub + out the very name of the Nez Perces from the mountains. Return, I say, to + your towns, and fight there, if you wish to live any longer as a people.” + </p> + <p> + Kosato took him at his word; for he knew the character of his native + tribe. Hastening back with his band to the Nez Perces village, he told all + that he had seen and heard, and urged the most prompt and strenuous + measures for defence. The Nez Perces, however, heard him with their + accustomed phlegm; the threat of the Blackfeet had been often made, and as + often had proved a mere bravado; such they pronounced it to be at present, + and, of course, took no precautions. + </p> + <p> + They were soon convinced that it was no empty menace. In a few days a band + of three hundred Blackfeet warriors appeared upon the hills. All now was + consternation in the village. The force of the Nez Perces was too small to + cope with the enemy in open fight; many of the young men having gone to + their relatives on the Columbia to procure horses. The sages met in + hurried council. What was to be done to ward off a blow which threatened + annihilation? In this moment of imminent peril, a Pierced-nose chief, + named Blue John by the whites, offered to approach secretly with a small, + but chosen band, through a defile which led to the encampment of the + enemy, and, by a sudden onset, to drive off the horses. Should this blow + be successful, the spirit and strength of the invaders would be broken, + and the Nez Perces, having horses, would be more than a match for them. + Should it fail, the village would not be worse off than at present, when + destruction appeared inevitable. + </p> + <p> + Twenty-nine of the choicest warriors instantly volunteered to follow Blue + John in this hazardous enterprise. They prepared for it with the solemnity + and devotion peculiar to the tribe. Blue John consulted his medicine, or + talismanic charm, such as every chief keeps in his lodge as a supernatural + protection. The oracle assured him that his enterprise would be completely + successful, provided no rain should fall before he had passed through the + defile; but should it rain, his band would be utterly cut off. + </p> + <p> + The day was clear and bright; and Blue John anticipated that the skies + would be propitious. He departed in high spirits with his forlorn hope; + and never did band of braves make a more gallant display-horsemen and + horses being decorated and equipped in the fiercest and most glaring + style-glittering with arms and ornaments, and fluttering with feathers. + </p> + <p> + The weather continued serene until they reached the defile; but just as + they were entering it a black cloud rose over the mountain crest, and + there was a sudden shower. The warriors turned to their leader, as if to + read his opinion of this unlucky omen; but the countenance of Blue John + remained unchanged, and they continued to press forward. It was their hope + to make their way undiscovered to the very vicinity of the Blackfoot camp; + but they had not proceeded far in the defile, when they met a scouting + party of the enemy. They attacked and drove them among the hills, and were + pursuing them with great eagerness when they heard shouts and yells behind + them, and beheld the main body of the Blackfeet advancing. + </p> + <p> + The second chief wavered a little at the sight and proposed an instant + retreat. “We came to fight!” replied Blue John, sternly. Then giving his + war-whoop, he sprang forward to the conflict. His braves followed him. + They made a headlong charge upon the enemy; not with the hope of victory, + but the determination to sell their lives dearly. A frightful carnage, + rather than a regular battle, succeeded. The forlorn band laid heaps of + their enemies dead at their feet, but were overwhelmed with numbers and + pressed into a gorge of the mountain; where they continued to fight until + they were cut to pieces. One only, of the thirty, survived. He sprang on + the horse of a Blackfoot warrior whom he had slain, and escaping at full + speed, brought home the baleful tidings to his village. + </p> + <p> + Who can paint the horror and desolation of the inhabitants? The flower of + their warriors laid low, and a ferocious enemy at their doors. The air was + rent by the shrieks and lamentations of the women, who, casting off their + ornaments and tearing their hair, wandered about, frantically bewailing + the dead and predicting destruction to the living. The remaining warriors + armed themselves for obstinate defence; but showed by their gloomy looks + and sullen silence that they considered defence hopeless. To their + surprise the Blackfeet refrained from pursuing their advantage; perhaps + satisfied with the blood already shed, or disheartened by the loss they + had themselves sustained. At any rate, they disappeared from the hills, + and it was soon ascertained that they had returned to the Horse Prairie. + </p> + <p> + The unfortunate Nez Perces now began once more to breathe. A few of their + warriors, taking pack-horses, repaired to the defile to bring away the + bodies of their slaughtered brethren. They found them mere headless + trunks; and the wounds with which they were covered showed how bravely + they had fought. Their hearts, too, had been torn out and carried off; a + proof of their signal valor; for in devouring the heart of a foe renowned + for bravery, or who has distinguished himself in battle, the Indian victor + thinks he appropriates to himself the courage of the deceased. + </p> + <p> + Gathering the mangled bodies of the slain, and strapping them across their + pack-horses, the warriors returned, in dismal procession, to the village. + The tribe came forth to meet them; the women with piercing cries and + wailings; the men with downcast countenances, in which gloom and sorrow + seemed fixed as if in marble. The mutilated and almost undistinguishable + bodies were placed in rows upon the ground, in the midst of the + assemblage; and the scene of heart-rending anguish and lamentation that + ensued would have confounded those who insist on Indian stoicism. + </p> + <p> + Such was the disastrous event that had overwhelmed the Nez Perces tribe + during the absence of Captain Bonneville; and he was informed that Kosato, + the renegade, who, being stationed in the village, had been prevented from + going on the forlorn hope, was again striving to rouse the vindictive + feelings of his adopted brethren, and to prompt them to revenge the + slaughter of their devoted braves. + </p> + <p> + During his sojourn on the Snake River plain, Captain Bonneville made one + of his first essays at the strategy of the fur trade. There was at this + time an assemblage of Nez Perces, Flatheads, and Cottonois Indians + encamped together upon the plain; well provided with beaver, which they + had collected during the spring. These they were waiting to traffic with a + resident trader of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who was stationed among them, + and with whom they were accustomed to deal. As it happened, the trader was + almost entirely destitute of Indian goods; his spring supply not having + yet reached him. Captain Bonneville had secret intelligence that the + supplies were on their way, and would soon arrive; he hoped, how-ever, by + a prompt move, to anticipate their arrival, and secure the market to + himself. Throwing himself, therefore, among the Indians, he opened his + packs of merchandise and displayed the most tempting wares: bright cloths, + and scarlet blankets, and glittering ornaments, and everything gay and + glorious in the eyes of warrior or squaw; all, however, was in vain. The + Hudson’s Bay trader was a perfect master of his business, thoroughly + acquainted with the Indians he had to deal with, and held such control + over them that none dared to act openly in opposition to his wishes; nay, + more—he came nigh turning the tables upon the captain, and shaking + the allegiance of some of his free trappers, by distributing liquors among + them. The latter, therefore, was glad to give up a competition, where the + war was likely to be carried into his own camp. + </p> + <p> + In fact, the traders of the Hudson’s Bay Company have advantages over all + competitors in the trade beyond the Rocky Mountains. That huge monopoly + centers within itself not merely its own hereditary and long-established + power and influence; but also those of its ancient rival, but now integral + part, the famous Northwest Company. It has thus its races of traders, + trappers, hunters, and voyageurs, born and brought up in its service, and + inheriting from preceding generations a knowledge and aptitude in + everything connected with Indian life, and Indian traffic. In the process + of years, this company has been enabled to spread its ramifications in + every direction; its system of intercourse is founded upon a long and + intimate knowledge of the character and necessities of the various tribes; + and of all the fastnesses, defiles, and favorable hunting grounds of the + country. Their capital, also, and the manner in which their supplies are + distributed at various posts, or forwarded by regular caravans, keep their + traders well supplied, and enable them to furnish their goods to the + Indians at a cheap rate. Their men, too, being chiefly drawn from the + Canadas, where they enjoy great influence and control, are engaged at the + most trifling wages, and supported at little cost; the provisions which + they take with them being little more than Indian corn and grease. They + are brought also into the most perfect discipline and subordination, + especially when their leaders have once got them to their scene of action + in the heart of the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + These circumstances combine to give the leaders of the Hudson’s Bay + Company a decided advantage over all the American companies that come + within their range, so that any close competition with them is almost + hopeless. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after Captain Bonneville’s ineffectual attempt to participate in + the trade of the associated camp, the supplies of the Hudson’s Bay Company + arrived; and the resident trader was enabled to monopolize the market. + </p> + <p> + It was now the beginning of July; in the latter part of which month + Captain Bonneville had appointed a rendezvous at Horse Creek in Green + River Valley, with some of the parties which he had detached in the + preceding year. He now turned his thoughts in that direction, and prepared + for the journey. + </p> + <p> + The Cottonois were anxious for him to proceed at once to their country; + which, they assured him, abounded in beaver. The lands of this tribe lie + immediately north of those of the Flatheads and are open to the inroads of + the Blackfeet. It is true, the latter professed to be their allies; but + they had been guilty of so many acts of perfidy, that the Cottonois had, + latterly, renounced their hollow friendship and attached themselves to the + Flatheads and Nez Perces. These they had accompanied in their migrations + rather than remain alone at home, exposed to the outrages of the + Blackfeet. They were now apprehensive that these marauders would range + their country during their absence and destroy the beaver; this was their + reason for urging Captain Bonneville to make it his autumnal hunting + ground. The latter, however, was not to be tempted; his engagements + required his presence at the rendezvous in Green River Valley; and he had + already formed his ulterior plans. + </p> + <p> + An unexpected difficulty now arose. The free trappers suddenly made a + stand, and declined to accompany him. It was a long and weary journey; the + route lay through Pierre’s Hole, and other mountain passes infested by the + Blackfeet, and recently the scenes of sanguinary conflicts. They were not + disposed to undertake such unnecessary toils and dangers, when they had + good and secure trapping grounds nearer at hand, on the head-waters of + Salmon River. + </p> + <p> + As these were free and independent fellows, whose will and whim were apt + to be law—who had the whole wilderness before them, “where to + choose,” and the trader of a rival company at hand, ready to pay for their + services—it was necessary to bend to their wishes. Captain + Bonneville fitted them out, therefore, for the hunting ground in question; + appointing Mr. Hodgkiss to act as their partisan, or leader, and fixing a + rendezvous where he should meet them in the course of the ensuing winter. + The brigade consisted of twenty-one free trappers and four or five hired + men as camp-keepers. This was not the exact arrangement of a trapping + party; which when accurately organized is composed of two thirds trappers + whose duty leads them continually abroad in pursuit of game; and one third + camp-keepers who cook, pack, and unpack; set up the tents, take care of + the horses and do all other duties usually assigned by the Indians to + their women. This part of the service is apt to be fulfilled by French + creoles from Canada and the valley of the Mississippi. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime the associated Indians having completed their trade and + received their supplies, were all ready to disperse in various directions. + As there was a formidable band of Blackfeet just over a mountain to the + northeast, by which Hodgkiss and his free trappers would have to pass; and + as it was known that those sharp-sighted marauders had their scouts out + watching every movement of the encampments, so as to cut off stragglers or + weak detachments, Captain Bonneville prevailed upon the Nez Perces to + accompany Hodgkiss and his party until they should be beyond the range of + the enemy. + </p> + <p> + The Cottonois and the Pends Oreilles determined to move together at the + same time, and to pass close under the mountain infested by the Blackfeet; + while Captain Bonneville, with his party, was to strike in an opposite + direction to the southeast, bending his course for Pierre’s Hole, on his + way to Green River. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, on the 6th of July, all the camps were raised at the same + moment; each party taking its separate route. The scene was wild and + picturesque; the long line of traders, trappers, and Indians, with their + rugged and fantastic dresses and accoutrements; their varied weapons, + their innumerable horses, some under the saddle, some burdened with + packages, others following in droves; all stretching in lengthening + cavalcades across the vast landscape, making for different points of the + plains and mountains. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0020" id="link2H_4_0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 19. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Precautions in dangerous defiles—Trappers’ mode of defence + on a prairie—A mysterious visitor—Arrival in Green River + Valley—Adventures of the detachments—The forlorn partisan + —His tale of disasters. +</pre> + <p> + AS the route of Captain Bonneville lay through what was considered the + most perilous part of this region of dangers, he took all his measures + with military skill, and observed the strictest circumspection. When on + the march, a small scouting party was thrown in the advance to reconnoitre + the country through which they were to pass. The encampments were selected + with great care, and a watch was kept up night and day. The horses were + brought in and picketed at night, and at daybreak a party was sent out to + scour the neighborhood for half a mile round, beating up every grove and + thicket that could give shelter to a lurking foe. When all was reported + safe, the horses were cast loose and turned out to graze. Were such + precautions generally observed by traders and hunters, we should not so + often hear of parties being surprised by the Indians. + </p> + <p> + Having stated the military arrangements of the captain, we may here + mention a mode of defence on the open prairie, which we have heard from a + veteran in the Indian trade. When a party of trappers is on a journey with + a convoy of goods or peltries, every man has three pack-horses under his + care; each horse laden with three packs. Every man is provided with a + picket with an iron head, a mallet, and hobbles, or leathern fetters for + the horses. The trappers proceed across the prairie in a long line; or + sometimes three parallel lines, sufficiently distant from each other to + prevent the packs from interfering. At an alarm, when there is no covert + at hand, the line wheels so as to bring the front to the rear and form a + circle. All then dismount, drive their pickets into the ground in the + centre, fasten the horses to them, and hobble their forelegs, so that, in + case of alarm, they cannot break away. Then they unload them, and dispose + of their packs as breastworks on the periphery of the circle; each man + having nine packs behind which to shelter himself. In this promptly-formed + fortress, they await the assault of the enemy, and are enabled to set + large bands of Indians at defiance. + </p> + <p> + The first night of his march, Captain Bonneville encamped upon Henry’s + Fork; an upper branch of Snake River, called after the first American + trader that erected a fort beyond the mountains. About an hour after all + hands had come to a halt the clatter of hoofs was heard, and a solitary + female, of the Nez Perce tribe, came galloping up. She was mounted on a + mustang or half wild horse, which she managed by a long rope hitched round + the under jaw by way of bridle. Dismounting, she walked silently into the + midst of the camp, and there seated herself on the ground, still holding + her horse by the long halter. + </p> + <p> + The sudden and lonely apparition of this woman, and her calm yet resolute + demeanor, awakened universal curiosity. The hunters and trappers gathered + round, and gazed on her as something mysterious. She remained silent, but + maintained her air of calmness and self-possession. Captain Bonneville + approached and interrogated her as to the object of her mysterious visit. + Her answer was brief but earnest—“I love the whites—I will go + with them.” She was forthwith invited to a lodge, of which she readily + took possession, and from that time forward was considered one of the + camp. + </p> + <p> + In consequence, very probably, of the military precautions of Captain + Bonneville, he conducted his party in safety through this hazardous + region. No accident of a disastrous kind occurred, excepting the loss of a + horse, which, in passing along the giddy edge of a precipice, called the + Cornice, a dangerous pass between Jackson’s and Pierre’s Hole, fell over + the brink, and was dashed to pieces. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th of July (1833), Captain Bonneville arrived at Green River. As + he entered the valley, he beheld it strewed in every direction with the + carcasses of buffaloes. It was evident that Indians had recently been + there, and in great numbers. Alarmed at this sight, he came to a halt, and + as soon as it was dark, sent out spies to his place of rendezvous on Horse + Creek, where he had expected to meet with his detached parties of trappers + on the following day. Early in the morning the spies made their appearance + in the camp, and with them came three trappers of one of his bands, from + the rendezvous, who told him his people were all there expecting him. As + to the slaughter among the buffaloes, it had been made by a friendly band + of Shoshonies, who had fallen in with one of his trapping parties, and + accompanied them to the rendezvous. Having imparted this intelligence, the + three worthies from the rendezvous broached a small keg of “alcohol,” + which they had brought with them to enliven this merry meeting. The liquor + went briskly round; all absent friends were toasted, and the party moved + forward to the rendezvous in high spirits. + </p> + <p> + The meeting of associated bands, who have been separated from each other + on these hazardous enterprises, is always interesting; each having its + tales of perils and adventures to relate. Such was the case with the + various detachments of Captain Bonneville’s company, thus brought together + on Horse Creek. Here was the detachment of fifty men which he had sent + from Salmon River, in the preceding month of November, to winter on Snake + River. They had met with many crosses and losses in the course of their + spring hunt, not so much from Indians as from white men. They had come in + competition with rival trapping parties, particularly one belonging to the + Rocky Mountain Fur Company; and they had long stories to relate of their + manoeuvres to forestall or distress each other. In fact, in these virulent + and sordid competitions, the trappers of each party were more intent upon + injuring their rivals, than benefitting themselves; breaking each other’s + traps, trampling and tearing to pieces the beaver lodges, and doing every + thing in their power to mar the success of the hunt. We forbear to detail + these pitiful contentions. + </p> + <p> + The most lamentable tale of disasters, however, that Captain Bonneville + had to hear, was from a partisan, whom he had detached in the preceding + year, with twenty men, to hunt through the outskirts of the Crow country, + and on the tributary streams of the Yellowstone; whence he was to proceed + and join him in his winter quarters on Salmon River. This partisan + appeared at the rendezvous without his party, and a sorrowful tale of + disasters had he to relate. In hunting the Crow country, he fell in with a + village of that tribe; notorious rogues, jockeys, and horse stealers, and + errant scamperers of the mountains. These decoyed most of his men to + desert, and carry off horses, traps, and accoutrements. When he attempted + to retake the deserters, the Crow warriors ruffled up to him and declared + the deserters were their good friends, had determined to remain among + them, and should not be molested. The poor partisan, therefore, was fain + to leave his vagabonds among these birds of their own feather, and being + too weak in numbers to attempt the dangerous pass across the mountains to + meet Captain Bonneville on Salmon River, he made, with the few that + remained faithful to him, for the neighborhood of Tullock’s Fort, on the + Yellowstone, under the protection of which he went into winter quarters. + </p> + <p> + He soon found out that the neighborhood of the fort was nearly as bad as + the neighborhood of the Crows. His men were continually stealing away + thither, with whatever beaver skins they could secrete or lay their hands + on. These they would exchange with the hangers-on of the fort for whiskey, + and then revel in drunkeness and debauchery. + </p> + <p> + The unlucky partisan made another move. Associating with his party a few + free trappers, whom he met with in this neighborhood, he started off early + in the spring to trap on the head waters of Powder River. In the course of + the journey, his horses were so much jaded in traversing a steep mountain, + that he was induced to turn them loose to graze during the night. The + place was lonely; the path was rugged; there was not the sign of an Indian + in the neighborhood; not a blade of grass that had been turned by a + footstep. But who can calculate on security in the midst of the Indian + country, where the foe lurks in silence and secrecy, and seems to come and + go on the wings of the wind? The horses had scarce been turned loose, when + a couple of Arickara (or Rickaree) warriors entered the camp. They + affected a frank and friendly demeanor; but their appearance and movements + awakened the suspicions of some of the veteran trappers, well versed in + Indian wiles. Convinced that they were spies sent on some sinister errand, + they took them in custody, and set to work to drive in the horses. It was + too late—the horses were already gone. In fact, a war party of + Arickaras had been hovering on their trail for several days, watching with + the patience and perseverance of Indians, for some moment of negligence + and fancied security, to make a successful swoop. The two spies had + evidently been sent into the camp to create a diversion, while their + confederates carried off the spoil. + </p> + <p> + The unlucky partisan, thus robbed of his horses, turned furiously on his + prisoners, ordered them to be bound hand and foot, and swore to put them + to death unless his property were restored. The robbers, who soon found + that their spies were in captivity, now made their appearance on + horseback, and held a parley. The sight of them, mounted on the very + horses they had stolen, set the blood of the mountaineers in a ferment; + but it was useless to attack them, as they would have but to turn their + steeds and scamper out of the reach of pedestrians. A negotiation was now + attempted. The Arickaras offered what they considered fair terms; to + barter one horse, or even two horses, for a prisoner. The mountaineers + spurned at their offer, and declared that, unless all the horses were + relinquished, the prisoners should be burnt to death. To give force to + their threat, a pyre of logs and fagots was heaped up and kindled into a + blaze. + </p> + <p> + The parley continued; the Arickaras released one horse and then another, + in earnest of their proposition; finding, however, that nothing short of + the relinquishment of all their spoils would purchase the lives of the + captives, they abandoned them to their fate, moving off with many parting + words and lamentable howlings. The prisoners seeing them depart, and + knowing the horrible fate that awaited them, made a desperate effort to + escape. They partially succeeded, but were severely wounded and retaken; + then dragged to the blazing pyre, and burnt to death in the sight of their + retreating comrades. + </p> + <p> + Such are the savage cruelties that white men learn to practise, who mingle + in savage life; and such are the acts that lead to terrible recrimination + on the part of the Indians. Should we hear of any atrocities committed by + the Arickaras upon captive white men, let this signal and recent + provocation be borne in mind. Individual cases of the kind dwell in the + recollections of whole tribes; and it is a point of honor and conscience + to revenge them. + </p> + <p> + The loss of his horses completed the ruin of the unlucky partisan. It was + out of his power to prosecute his hunting, or to maintain his party; the + only thought now was how to get back to civilized life. At the first + water-course, his men built canoes, and committed themselves to the + stream. Some engaged themselves at various trading establishments at which + they touched, others got back to the settlements. As to the partisan, he + found an opportunity to make his way to the rendezvous at Green River + Valley; which he reached in time to render to Captain Bonneville this + forlorn account of his misadventures. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0021" id="link2H_4_0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 20. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Gathering in Green River valley—Visitings and feastings of + leaders—Rough wassailing among the trappers—Wild blades of + the mountains—Indian belles—Potency of bright beads and + red blankets—Arrival of supplies—Revelry and extravagance + —Mad wolves—The lost Indian +</pre> + <p> + THE GREEN RIVER VALLEY was at this time the scene of one of those general + gatherings of traders, trappers, and Indians, that we have already + mentioned. The three rival companies, which, for a year past had been + endeavoring to out-trade, out-trap and out-wit each other, were here + encamped in close proximity, awaiting their annual supplies. About four + miles from the rendezvous of Captain Bonneville was that of the American + Fur Company, hard by which, was that also of the Rocky Mountain Fur + Company. + </p> + <p> + After the eager rivalry and almost hostility displayed by these companies + in their late campaigns, it might be expected that, when thus brought in + juxtaposition, they would hold themselves warily and sternly aloof from + each other, and, should they happen to come in contact, brawl and + bloodshed would ensue. + </p> + <p> + No such thing! Never did rival lawyers, after a wrangle at the bar, meet + with more social good humor at a circuit dinner. The hunting season over, + all past tricks and maneuvres are forgotten, all feuds and bickerings + buried in oblivion. From the middle of June to the middle of September, + all trapping is suspended; for the beavers are then shedding their furs + and their skins are of little value. This, then, is the trapper’s holiday, + when he is all for fun and frolic, and ready for a saturnalia among the + mountains. + </p> + <p> + At the present season, too, all parties were in good humor. The year had + been productive. Competition, by threatening to lessen their profits, had + quickened their wits, roused their energies, and made them turn every + favorable chance to the best advantage; so that, on assembling at their + respective places of rendezvous, each company found itself in possession + of a rich stock of peltries. + </p> + <p> + The leaders of the different companies, therefore, mingled on terms of + perfect good fellowship; interchanging visits, and regaling each other in + the best style their respective camps afforded. But the rich treat for the + worthy captain was to see the “chivalry” of the various encampments, + engaged in contests of skill at running, jumping, wrestling, shooting with + the rifle, and running horses. And then their rough hunters’ feastings and + carousels. They drank together, they sang, they laughed, they whooped; + they tried to out-brag and out-lie each other in stories of their + adventures and achievements. Here the free trappers were in all their + glory; they considered themselves the “cocks of the walk,” and always + carried the highest crests. Now and then familiarity was pushed too far, + and would effervesce into a brawl, and a “rough and tumble” fight; but it + all ended in cordial reconciliation and maudlin endearment. + </p> + <p> + The presence of the Shoshonie tribe contributed occasionally to cause + temporary jealousies and feuds. The Shoshonie beauties became objects of + rivalry among some of the amorous mountaineers. Happy was the trapper who + could muster up a red blanket, a string of gay beads, or a paper of + precious vermilion, with which to win the smiles of a Shoshonie fair one. + </p> + <p> + The caravans of supplies arrived at the valley just at this period of + gallantry and good fellowship. Now commenced a scene of eager competition + and wild prodigality at the different encampments. Bales were hastily + ripped open, and their motley contents poured forth. A mania for + purchasing spread itself throughout the several bands—munitions for + war, for hunting, for gallantry, were seized upon with equal avidity—rifles, + hunting knives, traps, scarlet cloth, red blankets, garish beads, and + glittering trinkets, were bought at any price, and scores run up without + any thought how they were ever to be rubbed off. The free trappers, + especially, were extravagant in their purchases. For a free mountaineer to + pause at a paltry consideration of dollars and cents, in the attainment of + any object that might strike his fancy, would stamp him with the mark of + the beast in the estimation of his comrades. For a trader to refuse one of + these free and flourishing blades a credit, whatever unpaid scores might + stare him in the face, would be a flagrant affront scarcely to be + forgiven. + </p> + <p> + Now succeeded another outbreak of revelry and extravagance. The trappers + were newly fitted out and arrayed, and dashed about with their horses + caparisoned in Indian style. The Shoshonie beauties also flaunted about in + all the colors of the rainbow. Every freak of prodigality was indulged to + its fullest extent, and in a little while most of the trappers, having + squandered away all their wages, and perhaps run knee-deep in debt, were + ready for another hard campaign in the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + During this season of folly and frolic, there was an alarm of mad wolves + in the two lower camps. One or more of these animals entered the camps for + three nights successively, and bit several of the people. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville relates the case of an Indian, who was a universal + favorite in the lower camp. He had been bitten by one of these animals. + Being out with a party shortly afterwards, he grew silent and gloomy, and + lagged behind the rest as if he wished to leave them. They halted and + urged him to move faster, but he entreated them not to approach him, and, + leaping from his horse, began to roll frantically on the earth, gnashing + his teeth and foaming at the mouth. Still he retained his senses, and + warned his companions not to come near him, as he should not be able to + restrain himself from biting them. They hurried off to obtain relief; but + on their return he was nowhere to be found. His horse and his + accoutrements remained upon the spot. Three or four days afterwards a + solitary Indian, believed to be the same, was observed crossing a valley, + and pursued; but he darted away into the fastnesses of the mountains, and + was seen no more. + </p> + <p> + Another instance we have from a different person who was present in the + encampment. One of the men of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company had been + bitten. He set out shortly afterwards in company with two white men on his + return to the settlements. In the course of a few days he showed symptoms + of hydrophobia, and became raving toward night. At length, breaking away + from his companions, he rushed into a thicket of willows, where they left + him to his fate! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0022" id="link2H_4_0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 21. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Schemes of Captain Bonneville—The Great Salt Lake + Expedition to explore it—Preparations for a journey to the + Bighorn +</pre> + <p> + CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE now found himself at the head of a hardy, well-seasoned + and well-appointed company of trappers, all benefited by at least one + year’s experience among the mountains, and capable of protecting + themselves from Indian wiles and stratagems, and of providing for their + subsistence wherever game was to be found. He had, also, an excellent + troop of horses, in prime condition, and fit for hard service. He + determined, therefore, to strike out into some of the bolder parts of his + scheme. One of these was to carry his expeditions into some of the unknown + tracts of the Far West, beyond what is generally termed the buffalo range. + This would have something of the merit and charm of discovery, so dear to + every brave and adventurous spirit. Another favorite project was to + establish a trading post on the lower part of the Columbia River, near the + Multnomah valley, and to endeavor to retrieve for his country some of the + lost trade of Astoria. + </p> + <p> + The first of the above mentioned views was, at present, uppermost in his + mind—the exploring of unknown regions. Among the grand features of + the wilderness about which he was roaming, one had made a vivid impression + on his mind, and been clothed by his imagination with vague and ideal + charms. This is a great lake of salt water, laving the feet of the + mountains, but extending far to the west-southwest, into one of those vast + and elevated plateaus of land, which range high above the level of the + Pacific. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville gives a striking account of the lake when seen from the + land. As you ascend the mountains about its shores, says he, you behold + this immense body of water spreading itself before you, and stretching + further and further, in one wide and far-reaching expanse, until the eye, + wearied with continued and strained attention, rests in the blue dimness + of distance, upon lofty ranges of mountains, confidently asserted to rise + from the bosom of the waters. Nearer to you, the smooth and unruffled + surface is studded with little islands, where the mountain sheep roam in + considerable numbers. What extent of lowland may be encompassed by the + high peaks beyond, must remain for the present matter of mere conjecture + though from the form of the summits, and the breaks which may be + discovered among them, there can be little doubt that they are the sources + of streams calculated to water large tracts, which are probably concealed + from view by the rotundity of the lake’s surface. At some future day, in + all probability, the rich harvest of beaver fur, which may be reasonably + anticipated in such a spot, will tempt adventurers to reduce all this + doubtful region to the palpable certainty of a beaten track. At present, + however, destitute of the means of making boats, the trapper stands upon + the shore, and gazes upon a promised land which his feet are never to + tread. + </p> + <p> + Such is the somewhat fanciful view which Captain Bonneville gives to this + great body of water. He has evidently taken part of his ideas concerning + it from the representations of others, who have somewhat exaggerated its + features. It is reported to be about one hundred and fifty miles long, and + fifty miles broad. The ranges of mountain peaks which Captain Bonneville + speaks of, as rising from its bosom, are probably the summits of mountains + beyond it, which may be visible at a vast distance, when viewed from an + eminence, in the transparent atmosphere of these lofty regions. Several + large islands certainly exist in the lake; one of which is said to be + mountainous, but not by any means to the extent required to furnish the + series of peaks above mentioned. + </p> + <p> + Captain Sublette, in one of his early expeditions across the mountains, is + said to have sent four men in a skin canoe, to explore the lake, who + professed to have navigated all round it; but to have suffered excessively + from thirst, the water of the lake being extremely salt, and there being + no fresh streams running into it. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville doubts this report, or that the men accomplished the + circumnavigation, because, he says, the lake receives several large + streams from the mountains which bound it to the east. In the spring, when + the streams are swollen by rain and by the melting of the snows, the lake + rises several feet above its ordinary level during the summer, it + gradually subsides again, leaving a sparkling zone of the finest salt upon + its shores. + </p> + <p> + The elevation of the vast plateau on which this lake is situated, is + estimated by Captain Bonneville at one and three-fourths of a mile above + the level of the ocean. The admirable purity and transparency of the + atmosphere in this region, allowing objects to be seen, and the report of + firearms to be heard, at an astonishing distance; and its extreme dryness, + causing the wheels of wagons to fall in pieces, as instanced in former + passages of this work, are proofs of the great altitude of the Rocky + Mountain plains. That a body of salt water should exist at such a height + is cited as a singular phenomenon by Captain Bonneville, though the salt + lake of Mexico is not much inferior in elevation. + </p> + <p> + To have this lake properly explored, and all its secrets revealed, was the + grand scheme of the captain for the present year; and while it was one in + which his imagination evidently took a leading part, he believed it would + be attended with great profit, from the numerous beaver streams with which + the lake must be fringed. + </p> + <p> + This momentous undertaking he confided to his lieutenant, Mr. Walker, in + whose experience and ability he had great confidence. He instructed him to + keep along the shores of the lake, and trap in all the streams on his + route; also to keep a journal, and minutely to record the events of his + journey, and everything curious or interesting, making maps or charts of + his route, and of the surrounding country. + </p> + <p> + No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out the party, of forty men, + which he was to command. They had complete supplies for a year, and were + to meet Captain Bonneville in the ensuing summer, in the valley of Bear + River, the largest tributary of the Salt Lake, which was to be his point + of general rendezvous. + </p> + <p> + The next care of Captain Bonneville was to arrange for the safe + transportation of the peltries which he had collected to the Atlantic + States. Mr. Robert Campbell, the partner of Sublette, was at this time in + the rendezvous of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, having brought up their + supplies. He was about to set off on his return, with the peltries + collected during the year, and intended to proceed through the Crow + country, to the head of navigation on the Bighorn River, and to descend in + boats down that river, the Missouri, and the Yellowstone, to St. Louis. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville determined to forward his peltries by the same route, + under the especial care of Mr. Cerre. By way of escort, he would accompany + Cerre to the point of embarkation, and then make an autumnal hunt in the + Crow country. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0023" id="link2H_4_0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 22. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Crow country—A Crow paradise Habits of the Crows— + Anecdotes of Rose, the renegade white man—His fights with + the Blackfeet—His elevation—His death—Arapooish, the Crow + chief—His eagle Adventure of Robert Campbell—Honor among + Crows +</pre> + <p> + BEFORE WE ACCOMPANY Captain Bonneville into the Crow country, we will + impart a few facts about this wild region, and the wild people who inhabit + it. We are not aware of the precise boundaries, if there are any, of the + country claimed by the Crows; it appears to extend from the Black Hills to + the Rocky Mountains, including a part of their lofty ranges, and embracing + many of the plains and valleys watered by the Wind River, the Yellowstone, + the Powder River, the Little Missouri, and the Nebraska. The country + varies in soil and climate; there are vast plains of sand and clay, + studded with large red sand-hills; other parts are mountainous and + picturesque; it possesses warm springs, and coal mines, and abounds with + game. + </p> + <p> + But let us give the account of the country as rendered by Arapooish, a + Crow chief, to Mr. Robert Campbell, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company. + </p> + <p> + “The Crow country,” said he, “is a good country. The Great Spirit has put + it exactly in the right place; while you-are in it you fare well; whenever + you go out of it, whichever way you travel, you fare worse. + </p> + <p> + “If you go to the south, you have to wander over great barren plains; the + water is warm and bad, and you meet the fever and ague. + </p> + <p> + “To the north it is cold; the winters are long and bitter, with no grass; + you cannot keep horses there, but must travel with dogs. What is a country + without horses? + </p> + <p> + “On the Columbia they are poor and dirty, paddle about in canoes, and eat + fish. Their teeth are worn out; they are always taking fish-bones out of + their mouths. Fish is poor food. + </p> + <p> + “To the east, they dwell in villages; they live well; but they drink the + muddy water of the Missouri—that is bad. A Crow’s dog would not + drink such water. + </p> + <p> + “About the forks of the Missouri is a fine country; good water; good + grass; plenty of buffalo. In summer, it is almost as good as the Crow + country; but in winter it is cold; the grass is gone; and there is no salt + weed for the horses. + </p> + <p> + “The Crow country is exactly in the right place. It has snowy mountains + and sunny plains; all kinds of climates and good things for every season. + When the summer heats scorch the prairies, you can draw up under the + mountains, where the air is sweet and cool, the grass fresh, and the + bright streams come tumbling out of the snow-banks. There you can hunt the + elk, the deer, and the antelope, when their skins are fit for dressing; + there you will find plenty of white bears and mountain sheep. + </p> + <p> + “In the autumn, when your horses are fat and strong from the mountain + pastures, you can go down into the plains and hunt the buffalo, or trap + beaver on the streams. And when winter comes on, you can take shelter in + the woody bottoms along the rivers; there you will find buffalo meat for + yourselves, and cotton-wood bark for your horses: or you may winter in the + Wind River valley, where there is salt weed in abundance. + </p> + <p> + “The Crow country is exactly in the right place. Everything good is to be + found there. There is no country like the Crow country.” + </p> + <p> + Such is the eulogium on his country by Arapooish. + </p> + <p> + We have had repeated occasions to speak of the restless and predatory + habits of the Crows. They can muster fifteen hundred fighting men, but + their incessant wars with the Blackfeet, and their vagabond, predatory + habits, are gradually wearing them out. + </p> + <p> + In a recent work, we related the circumstance of a white man named Rose, + an outlaw, and a designing vagabond, who acted as guide and interpreter to + Mr. Hunt and his party, on their journey across the mountains to Astoria, + who came near betraying them into the hands of the Crows, and who remained + among the tribe, marrying one of their women, and adopting their congenial + habits. A few anecdotes of the subsequent fortunes of that renegade may + not be uninteresting, especially as they are connected with the fortunes + of the tribe. + </p> + <p> + Rose was powerful in frame and fearless in spirit; and soon by his daring + deeds took his rank among the first braves of the tribe. He aspired to + command, and knew it was only to be attained by desperate exploits. He + distinguished himself in repeated actions with Blackfeet. On one occasion, + a band of those savages had fortified themselves within a breastwork, and + could not be harmed. Rose proposed to storm the work. “Who will take the + lead?” was the demand. “I!” cried he; and putting himself at their head, + rushed forward. The first Blackfoot that opposed him he shot down with his + rifle, and, snatching up the war-club of his victim, killed four others + within the fort. The victory was complete, and Rose returned to the Crow + village covered with glory, and bearing five Blackfoot scalps, to be + erected as a trophy before his lodge. From this time, he was known among + the Crows by the name of Che-ku-kaats, or “the man who killed five.” He + became chief of the village, or rather band, and for a time was the + popular idol. His popularity soon awakened envy among the native braves; + he was a stranger, an intruder, a white man. A party seceded from his + command. Feuds and civil wars succeeded that lasted for two or three + years, until Rose, having contrived to set his adopted brethren by the + ears, left them, and went down the Missouri in 1823. Here he fell in with + one of the earliest trapping expeditions sent by General Ashley across the + mountains. It was conducted by Smith, Fitzpatrick, and Sublette. Rose + enlisted with them as guide and interpreter. When he got them among the + Crows, he was exceedingly generous with their goods; making presents to + the braves of his adopted tribe, as became a high-minded chief. + </p> + <p> + This, doubtless, helped to revive his popularity. In that expedition, + Smith and Fitzpatrick were robbed of their horses in Green River valley; + the place where the robbery took place still bears the name of Horse + Creek. We are not informed whether the horses were stolen through the + instigation and management of Rose; it is not improbable, for such was the + perfidy he had intended to practice on a former occasion toward Mr. Hunt + and his party. + </p> + <p> + The last anecdote we have of Rose is from an Indian trader. When General + Atkinson made his military expedition up the Missouri, in 1825, to protect + the fur trade, he held a conference with the Crow nation, at which Rose + figured as Indian dignitary and Crow interpreter. The military were + stationed at some little distance from the scene of the “big talk”; while + the general and the chiefs were smoking pipes and making speeches, the + officers, supposing all was friendly, left the troops, and drew near the + scene of ceremonial. Some of the more knowing Crows, perceiving this, + stole quietly to the camp, and, unobserved, contrived to stop the + touch-holes of the field-pieces with dirt. Shortly after, a + misunderstanding occurred in the conference: some of the Indians, knowing + the cannon to be useless, became insolent. A tumult arose. In the + confusion, Colonel O’Fallan snapped a pistol in the face of a brave, and + knocked him down with the butt end. The Crows were all in a fury. A + chance-medley fight was on the point of taking place, when Rose, his + natural sympathies as a white man suddenly recurring, broke the stock of + his fusee over the head of a Crow warrior, and laid so vigorously about + him with the barrel, that he soon put the whole throng to flight. Luckily, + as no lives had been lost, this sturdy rib roasting calmed the fury of the + Crows, and the tumult ended without serious consequences. + </p> + <p> + What was the ultimate fate of this vagabond hero is not distinctly known. + Some report him to have fallen a victim to disease, brought on by his + licentious life; others assert that he was murdered in a feud among the + Crows. After all, his residence among these savages, and the influence he + acquired over them, had, for a time, some beneficial effects. He is said, + not merely to have rendered them more formidable to the Blackfeet, but to + have opened their eyes to the policy of cultivating the friendship of the + white men. + </p> + <p> + After Rose’s death, his policy continued to be cultivated, with + indifferent success, by Arapooish, the chief already mentioned, who had + been his great friend, and whose character he had contributed to develope. + This sagacious chief endeavored, on every occasion, to restrain the + predatory propensities of his tribe when directed against the white men. + “If we keep friends with them,” said he, “we have nothing to fear from the + Blackfeet, and can rule the mountains.” Arapooish pretended to be a great + “medicine man”, a character among the Indians which is a compound of + priest, doctor, prophet, and conjurer. He carried about with him a tame + eagle, as his “medicine” or familiar. With the white men, he acknowledged + that this was all charlatanism, but said it was necessary, to give him + weight and influence among his people. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Robert Campbell, from whom we have most of these facts, in the course + of one of his trapping expeditions, was quartered in the village of + Arapooish, and a guest in the lodge of the chieftain. He had collected a + large quantity of furs, and, fearful of being plundered, deposited but a + part in the lodge of the chief; the rest he buried in a cache. One night, + Arapooish came into the lodge with a cloudy brow, and seated himself for a + time without saying a word. At length, turning to Campbell, “You have more + furs with you,” said he, “than you have brought into my lodge?” + </p> + <p> + “I have,” replied Campbell. + </p> + <p> + “Where are they?” + </p> + <p> + Campbell knew the uselessness of any prevarication with an Indian; and the + importance of complete frankness. He described the exact place where he + had concealed his peltries. + </p> + <p> + “‘Tis well,” replied Arapooish; “you speak straight. It is just as you + say. But your cache has been robbed. Go and see how many skins have been + taken from it.” + </p> + <p> + Campbell examined the cache, and estimated his loss to be about one + hundred and fifty beaver skins. + </p> + <p> + Arapooish now summoned a meeting of the village. He bitterly reproached + his people for robbing a stranger who had confided to their honor; and + commanded that whoever had taken the skins, should bring them back: + declaring that, as Campbell was his guest and inmate of his lodge, he + would not eat nor drink until every skin was restored to him. + </p> + <p> + The meeting broke up, and every one dispersed. Arapooish now charged + Campbell to give neither reward nor thanks to any one who should bring in + the beaver skins, but to keep count as they were delivered. + </p> + <p> + In a little while, the skins began to make their appearance, a few at a + time; they were laid down in the lodge, and those who brought them + departed without saying a word. The day passed away. Arapooish sat in one + corner of his lodge, wrapped up in his robe, scarcely moving a muscle of + his countenance. When night arrived, he demanded if all the skins had been + brought in. Above a hundred had been given up, and Campbell expressed + himself contented. Not so the Crow chieftain. He fasted all that night, + nor tasted a drop of water. In the morning, some more skins were brought + in, and continued to come, one and two at a time, throughout the day, + until but a few were wanting to make the number complete. Campbell was now + anxious to put an end to this fasting of the old chief, and again declared + that he was perfectly satisfied. Arapooish demanded what number of skins + were yet wanting. On being told, he whispered to some of his people, who + disappeared. After a time the number were brought in, though it was + evident they were not any of the skins that had been stolen, but others + gleaned in the village. + </p> + <p> + “Is all right now?” demanded Arapooish. + </p> + <p> + “All is right,” replied Campbell. + </p> + <p> + “Good! Now bring me meat and drink!” + </p> + <p> + When they were alone together, Arapooish had a conversation with his + guest. + </p> + <p> + “When you come another time among the Crows,” said he, “don’t hide your + goods: trust to them and they will not wrong you. Put your goods in the + lodge of a chief, and they are sacred; hide them in a cache, and any one + who finds will steal them. My people have now given up your goods for my + sake; but there are some foolish young men in the village, who may be + disposed to be troublesome. Don’t linger, therefore, but pack your horses + and be off.” + </p> + <p> + Campbell took his advice, and made his way safely out of the Crow country. + He has ever since maintained that the Crows are not so black as they are + painted. “Trust to their honor,” says he, “and you are safe: trust to + their honesty, and they will steal the hair off your head.” + </p> + <p> + Having given these few preliminary particulars, we will resume the course + of our narrative. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0024" id="link2H_4_0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 23. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure from—Green River valley—Popo-Agie—Its course— + The rivers into which it runs—Scenery of the Bluffs the + great Tar Spring—Volcanic tracts in the Crow country— + Burning Mountain of Powder River—Sulphur springs—Hidden + fires—Colter’s Hell-Wind River—Campbell’s party— + Fitzpatrick and his trappers—Captain Stewart, an amateur + traveller—Nathaniel Wyeth—Anecdotes of his expedition to + the Far West—Disaster of Campbell’s party—A union of + bands—The Bad Pass—The rapids—Departure of Fitzpatrick— + Embarkation of peltries—Wyeth and his bull boat—Adventures + of Captain—Bonneville in the Bighorn Mountains—Adventures + in the plain—Traces of Indians—Travelling precautions— + Dangers of making a smoke—The rendezvous +</pre> + <p> + ON THE 25TH of July, Captain Bonneville struck his tents, and set out on + his route for the Bighorn, at the head of a party of fifty-six men, + including those who were to embark with Cerre. Crossing the Green River + valley, he proceeded along the south point of the Wind River range of + mountains, and soon fell upon the track of Mr. Robert Campbell’s party, + which had preceded him by a day. This he pursued, until he perceived that + it led down the banks of the Sweet Water to the southeast. As this was + different from his proposed direction, he left it; and turning to the + northeast, soon came upon the waters of the Popo Agie. This stream takes + its rise in the Wind River Mountains. Its name, like most Indian names, is + characteristic. Popo, in the Crow language, signifies head; and Agie, + river. It is the head of a long river, extending from the south end of the + Wind River Mountains in a northeast direction, until it falls into the + Yellowstone. Its course is generally through plains, but is twice crossed + by chains of mountains; the first called the Littlehorn; the second, the + Bighorn. After it has forced its way through the first chain, it is called + the Horn River; after the second chain, it is called the Bighorn River. + Its passage through this last chain is rough and violent; making repeated + falls, and rushing down long and furious rapids, which threaten + destruction to the navigator; though a hardy trapper is said to have shot + down them in a canoe. At the foot of these rapids, is the head of + navigation; where it was the intention of the parties to construct boats, + and embark. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding down along the Popo Agie, Captain Bonneville came again in full + view of the “Bluffs,” as they are called, extending from the base of the + Wind River Mountains far away to the east, and presenting to the eye a + confusion of hills and cliffs of red sandstone, some peaked and angular, + some round, some broken into crags and precipices, and piled up in + fantastic masses; but all naked and sterile. There appeared to be no soil + favorable to vegetation, nothing but coarse gravel; yet, over all this + isolated, barren landscape, were diffused such atmospherical tints and + hues, as to blend the whole into harmony and beauty. + </p> + <p> + In this neighborhood, the captain made search for “the great Tar Spring,” + one of the wonders of the mountains; the medicinal properties of which, he + had heard extravagantly lauded by the trappers. After a toilsome search, + he found it at the foot of a sand-bluff, a little east of the Wind River + Mountains; where it exuded in a small stream of the color and consistency + of tar. The men immediately hastened to collect a quantity of it, to use + as an ointment for the galled backs of their horses, and as a balsam for + their own pains and aches. From the description given of it, it is + evidently the bituminous oil, called petrolium or naphtha, which forms a + principal ingredient in the potent medicine called British Oil. It is + found in various parts of Europe and Asia, in several of the West India + islands, and in some places of the United States. In the state of New + York, it is called Seneca Oil, from being found near the Seneca lake. + </p> + <p> + The Crow country has other natural curiosities, which are held in + superstitious awe by the Indians, and considered great marvels by the + trappers. Such is the Burning Mountain, on Powder River, abounding with + anthracite coal. Here the earth is hot and cracked; in many places + emitting smoke and sulphurous vapors, as if covering concealed fires. A + volcanic tract of similar character is found on Stinking River, one of the + tributaries of the Bighorn, which takes its unhappy name from the odor + derived from sulphurous springs and streams. This last mentioned place was + first discovered by Colter, a hunter belonging to Lewis and Clarke’s + exploring party, who came upon it in the course of his lonely wanderings, + and gave such an account of its gloomy terrors, its hidden fires, smoking + pits, noxious streams, and the all-pervading “smell of brimstone,” that it + received, and has ever since retained among trappers, the name of + “Colter’s Hell!” + </p> + <p> + Resuming his descent along the left bank of the Popo Agie, Captain + Bonneville soon reached the plains; where he found several large streams + entering from the west. Among these was Wind River, which gives its name + to the mountains among which it takes its rise. This is one of the most + important streams of the Crow country. The river being much swollen, + Captain Bonneville halted at its mouth, and sent out scouts to look for a + fording place. While thus encamped, he beheld in the course of the + afternoon a long line of horsemen descending the slope of the hills on the + opposite side of the Popo Agie. His first idea was that they were Indians; + he soon discovered, however, that they were white men, and, by the long + line of pack-horses, ascertained them to be the convoy of Campbell, which, + having descended the Sweet Water, was now on its way to the Horn River. + </p> + <p> + The two parties came together two or three days afterwards, on the 4th of + August, after having passed through the gap of the Littlehorn Mountain. In + company with Campbell’s convoy was a trapping party of the Rocky Mountain + Company, headed by Fitzpatrick; who, after Campbell’s embarkation on the + Bighorn, was to take charge of all the horses, and proceed on a trapping + campaign. There were, moreover, two chance companions in the rival camp. + One was Captain Stewart, of the British army, a gentleman of noble + connections, who was amusing himself by a wandering tour in the Far West; + in the course of which, he had lived in hunter’s style; accompanying + various bands of traders, trappers, and Indians; and manifesting that + relish for the wilderness that belongs to men of game spirit. + </p> + <p> + The other casual inmate of Mr. Campbell’s camp was Mr. Nathaniel Wyeth; + the self-same leader of the band of New England salmon fishers, with whom + we parted company in the valley of Pierre’s Hole, after the battle with + the Blackfeet. A few days after that affair, he again set out from the + rendezvous in company with Milton Sublette and his brigade of trappers. On + his march, he visited the battle ground, and penetrated to the deserted + fort of the Blackfeet in the midst of the wood. It was a dismal scene. The + fort was strewed with the mouldering bodies of the slain; while vultures + soared aloft, or sat brooding on the trees around; and Indian dogs howled + about the place, as if bewailing the death of their masters. Wyeth + travelled for a considerable distance to the southwest, in company with + Milton Sublette, when they separated; and the former, with eleven men, the + remnant of his band, pushed on for Snake River; kept down the course of + that eventful stream; traversed the Blue Mountains, trapping beaver + occasionally by the way, and finally, after hardships of all kinds, + arrived, on the 29th of October, at Vancouver, on the Columbia, the main + factory of the Hudson’s Bay Company. + </p> + <p> + He experienced hospitable treatment at the hands of the agents of that + company; but his men, heartily tired of wandering in the wilderness, or + tempted by other prospects, refused, for the most part, to continue any + longer in his service. Some set off for the Sandwich Islands; some entered + into other employ. Wyeth found, too, that a great part of the goods he had + brought with him were unfitted for the Indian trade; in a word, his + expedition, undertaken entirely on his own resources, proved a failure. He + lost everything invested in it, but his hopes. These were as strong as + ever. He took note of every thing, therefore, that could be of service to + him in the further prosecution of his project; collected all the + information within his reach, and then set off, accompanied by merely two + men, on his return journey across the continent. He had got thus far “by + hook and by crook,” a mode in which a New England man can make his way all + over the world, and through all kinds of difficulties, and was now bound + for Boston; in full confidence of being able to form a company for the + salmon fishery and fur trade of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + The party of Mr. Campbell had met with a disaster in the course of their + route from the Sweet Water. Three or four of the men, who were + reconnoitering the country in advance of the main body, were visited one + night in their camp, by fifteen or twenty Shoshonies. Considering this + tribe as perfectly friendly, they received them in the most cordial and + confiding manner. In the course of the night, the man on guard near the + horses fell sound asleep; upon which a Shoshonie shot him in the head, and + nearly killed him. The savages then made off with the horses, leaving the + rest of the party to find their way to the main body on foot. + </p> + <p> + The rival companies of Captain Bonneville and Mr. Campbell, thus + fortuitously brought together, now prosecuted their journey in great good + fellowship; forming a joint camp of about a hundred men. The captain, + however, began to entertain doubts that Fitzpatrick and his trappers, who + kept profound silence as to their future movements, intended to hunt the + same grounds which he had selected for his autumnal campaign; which lay to + the west of the Horn River, on its tributary streams. In the course of his + march, therefore, he secretly detached a small party of trappers, to make + their way to those hunting grounds, while he continued on with the main + body; appointing a rendezvous, at the next full moon, about the 28th of + August, at a place called the Medicine Lodge. + </p> + <p> + On reaching the second chain, called the Bighorn Mountains, where the + river forced its impetuous way through a precipitous defile, with cascades + and rapids, the travellers were obliged to leave its banks, and traverse + the mountains by a rugged and frightful route, emphatically called the + “Bad Pass.” Descending the opposite side, they again made for the river + banks; and about the middle of August, reached the point below the rapids + where the river becomes navigable for boats. Here Captain Bonneville + detached a second party of trappers, consisting of ten men, to seek and + join those whom he had detached while on the route; appointing for them + the same rendezvous, (at the Medicine Lodge,) on the 28th of August. + </p> + <p> + All hands now set to work to construct “bull boats,” as they are + technically called; a light, fragile kind of bark, characteristic of the + expedients and inventions of the wilderness; being formed of buffalo + skins, stretched on frames. They are sometimes, also, called skin boats. + Wyeth was the first ready; and, with his usual promptness and hardihood, + launched his frail bark, singly, on this wild and hazardous voyage, down + an almost interminable succession of rivers, winding through countries + teeming with savage hordes. Milton Sublette, his former fellow traveller, + and his companion in the battle scenes of Pierre’s Hole, took passage in + his boat. His crew consisted of two white men, and two Indians. We shall + hear further of Wyeth, and his wild voyage, in the course of our + wanderings about the Far West. + </p> + <p> + The remaining parties soon completed their several armaments. That of + Captain Bonneville was composed of three bull boats, in which he embarked + all his peltries, giving them in charge of Mr. Cerre, with a party of + thirty-six men. Mr. Campbell took command of his own boats, and the little + squadrons were soon gliding down the bright current of the Bighorn. + </p> + <p> + The secret precautions which Captain Bonneville had taken to throw his men + first into the trapping ground west of the Bighorn, were, probably, + superfluous. It did not appear that Fitzpatrick had intended to hunt in + that direction. The moment Mr. Campbell and his men embarked with the + peltries, Fitzpatrick took charge of all the horses, amounting to above a + hundred, and struck off to the east, to trap upon Littlehorn, Powder, and + Tongue rivers. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, who was desirous of + having a range about the Crow country. Of the adventures they met with in + that region of vagabonds and horse stealers, we shall have something to + relate hereafter. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville being now left to prosecute his trapping campaign + without rivalry, set out, on the 17th of August, for the rendezvous at + Medicine Lodge. He had but four men remaining with him, and forty-six + horses to take care of; with these he had to make his way over mountain + and plain, through a marauding, horse-stealing region, full of peril for a + numerous cavalcade so slightly manned. He addressed himself to his + difficult journey, however, with his usual alacrity of spirit. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon of his first day’s journey, on drawing near to the + Bighorn Mountain, on the summit of which he intended to encamp for the + night, he observed, to his disquiet, a cloud of smoke rising from its + base. He came to a halt, and watched it anxiously. It was very irregular; + sometimes it would almost die away; and then would mount up in heavy + volumes. There was, apparently, a large party encamped there; probably, + some ruffian horde of Blackfeet. At any rate, it would not do for so small + a number of men, with so numerous a cavalcade, to venture within sight of + any wandering tribe. Captain Bonneville and his companions, therefore, + avoided this dangerous neighborhood; and, proceeding with extreme caution, + reached the summit of the mountain, apparently without being discovered. + Here they found a deserted Blackfoot fort, in which they ensconced + themselves; disposed of every thing as securely as possible, and passed + the night without molestation. Early the next morning they descended the + south side of the mountain into the great plain extending between it and + the Littlehorn range. Here they soon came upon numerous footprints, and + the carcasses of buffaloes; by which they knew there must be Indians not + far off. Captain Bonneville now began to feel solicitude about the two + small parties of trappers which he had detached, lest the Indians should + have come upon them before they had united their forces. But he felt still + more solicitude about his own party; for it was hardly to be expected he + could traverse these naked plains undiscovered, when Indians were abroad; + and should he be discovered, his chance would be a desperate one. + Everything now depended upon the greatest circumspection. It was dangerous + to discharge a gun, or light a fire, or make the least noise, where such + quick-eared and quick-sighted enemies were at hand. In the course of the + day they saw indubitable signs that the buffalo had been roaming there in + great numbers, and had recently been frightened away. That night they + encamped with the greatest care; and threw up a strong breastwork for + their protection. + </p> + <p> + For the two succeeding days they pressed forward rapidly, but cautiously, + across the great plain; fording the tributary streams of the Horn River; + encamping one night among thickets; the next, on an island; meeting, + repeatedly, with traces of Indians; and now and then, in passing through a + defile, experiencing alarms that induced them to cock their rifles. + </p> + <p> + On the last day of their march hunger got the better of their caution, and + they shot a fine buffalo bull at the risk of being betrayed by the report. + They did not halt to make a meal, but carried the meat on with them to the + place of rendezvous, the Medicine Lodge, where they arrived safely, in the + evening, and celebrated their arrival by a hearty supper. + </p> + <p> + The next morning they erected a strong pen for the horses, and a fortress + of logs for themselves; and continued to observe the greatest caution. + Their cooking was all done at mid-day, when the fire makes no glare, and a + moderate smoke cannot be perceived at any great distance. In the morning + and the evening, when the wind is lulled, the smoke rises perpendicularly + in a blue column, or floats in light clouds above the tree-tops, and can + be discovered from afar. + </p> + <p> + In this way the little party remained for several days, cautiously + encamped, until, on the 29th of August, the two detachments they had been + expecting, arrived together at the rendezvous. They, as usual, had their + several tales of adventures to relate to the captain, which we will + furnish to the reader in the next chapter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0025" id="link2H_4_0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 24. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Adventures of the party of ten—The—Balaamite mule—A dead + point—The mysterious elks—A night attack—A retreat— + Travelling under an alarm—A joyful meeting—Adventures of + the other party—A decoy elk—Retreat to an island—A savage + dance of triumph—Arrival at Wind River +</pre> + <p> + THE ADVENTURES of the detachment of ten are the first in order. These + trappers, when they separated from Captain Bonneville at the place where + the furs were embarked, proceeded to the foot of the Bighorn Mountain, and + having encamped, one of them mounted his mule and went out to set his trap + in a neighboring stream. He had not proceeded far when his steed came to a + full stop. The trapper kicked and cudgelled, but to every blow and kick + the mule snorted and kicked up, but still refused to budge an inch. The + rider now cast his eyes warily around in search of some cause for this + demur, when, to his dismay, he discovered an Indian fort within gunshot + distance, lowering through the twilight. In a twinkling he wheeled about; + his mule now seemed as eager to get on as himself, and in a few moments + brought him, clattering with his traps, among his comrades. He was jeered + at for his alacrity in retreating; his report was treated as a false + alarm; his brother trappers contented themselves with reconnoitring the + fort at a distance, and pronounced that it was deserted. + </p> + <p> + As night set in, the usual precaution, enjoined by Captain Bonneville on + his men, was observed. The horses were brought in and tied, and a guard + stationed over them. This done, the men wrapped themselves in their + blankets, stretched themselves before the fire, and being fatigued with a + long day’s march, and gorged with a hearty supper, were soon in a profound + sleep. + </p> + <p> + The camp fires gradually died away; all was dark and silent; the sentinel + stationed to watch the horses had marched as far, and supped as heartily + as any of his companions, and while they snored, he began to nod at his + post. After a time, a low trampling noise reached his ear. He half opened + his closing eyes, and beheld two or three elks moving about the lodges, + picking, and smelling, and grazing here and there. The sight of elk within + the purlieus of the camp caused some little surprise; but having had his + supper, he cared not for elk meat, and, suffering them to graze about + unmolested, soon relapsed into a doze. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly, before daybreak, a discharge of firearms, and a struggle and + tramp of horses, made every one start to his feet. The first move was to + secure the horses. Some were gone; others were struggling, and kicking, + and trembling, for there was a horrible uproar of whoops, and yells, and + firearms. Several trappers stole quietly from the camp, and succeeded in + driving in the horses which had broken away; the rest were tethered still + more strongly. A breastwork was thrown up of saddles, baggage, and camp + furniture, and all hands waited anxiously for daylight. The Indians, in + the meantime, collected on a neighboring height, kept up the most horrible + clamor, in hopes of striking a panic into the camp, or frightening off the + horses. When the day dawned, the trappers attacked them briskly and drove + them to some distance. A desultory fire was kept up for an hour, when the + Indians, seeing nothing was to be gained, gave up the contest and retired. + They proved to be a war party of Blackfeet, who, while in search of the + Crow tribe, had fallen upon the trail of Captain Bonneville on the Popo + Agie, and dogged him to the Bighorn; but had been completely baffled by + his vigilance. They had then waylaid the present detachment, and were + actually housed in perfect silence within their fort, when the mule of the + trapper made such a dead point. + </p> + <p> + The savages went off uttering the wildest denunciations of hostility, + mingled with opprobrious terms in broken English, and gesticulations of + the most insulting kind. + </p> + <p> + In this melee, one white man was wounded, and two horses were killed. On + preparing the morning’s meal, however, a number of cups, knives, and other + articles were missing, which had, doubtless, been carried off by the + fictitious elk, during the slumber of the very sagacious sentinel. As the + Indians had gone off in the direction which the trappers had intended to + travel, the latter changed their route, and pushed forward rapidly through + the “Bad Pass,” nor halted until night; when, supposing themselves out of + the reach of the enemy, they contented themselves with tying up their + horses and posting a guard. They had scarce laid down to sleep, when a dog + strayed into the camp with a small pack of moccasons tied upon his back; + for dogs are made to carry burdens among the Indians. The sentinel, more + knowing than he of the preceding night, awoke his companions and reported + the circumstance. It was evident that Indians were at hand. All were + instantly at work; a strong pen was soon constructed for the horses, after + completing which, they resumed their slumbers with the composure of men + long inured to dangers. + </p> + <p> + In the next night, the prowling of dogs about the camp, and various + suspicious noises, showed that Indians were still hovering about them. + Hurrying on by long marches, they at length fell upon a trail, which, with + the experienced eye of veteran woodmen, they soon discovered to be that of + the party of trappers detached by Captain Bonneville when on his march, + and which they were sent to join. They likewise ascertained from various + signs, that this party had suffered some maltreatment from the Indians. + They now pursued the trail with intense anxiety; it carried them to the + banks of the stream called the Gray Bull, and down along its course, until + they came to where it empties into the Horn River. Here, to their great + joy, they discovered the comrades of whom they were in search, all + strongly fortified, and in a state of great watchfulness and anxiety. + </p> + <p> + We now take up the adventures of this first detachment of trappers. These + men, after parting with the main body under Captain Bonneville, had + proceeded slowly for several days up the course of the river, trapping + beaver as they went. One morning, as they were about to visit their traps, + one of the camp-keepers pointed to a fine elk, grazing at a distance, and + requested them to shoot it. Three of the trappers started off for the + purpose. In passing a thicket, they were fired upon by some savages in + ambush, and at the same time, the pretended elk, throwing off his hide and + his horn, started forth an Indian warrior. + </p> + <p> + One of the three trappers had been brought down by the volley; the others + fled to the camp, and all hands, seizing up whatever they could carry off, + retreated to a small island in the river, and took refuge among the + willows. Here they were soon joined by their comrade who had fallen, but + who had merely been wounded in the neck. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime the Indians took possession of the deserted camp, with all + the traps, accoutrements, and horses. While they were busy among the + spoils, a solitary trapper, who had been absent at his work, came + sauntering to the camp with his traps on his back. He had approached near + by, when an Indian came forward and motioned him to keep away; at the same + moment, he was perceived by his comrades on the island, and warned of his + danger with loud cries. The poor fellow stood for a moment, bewildered and + aghast, then dropping his traps, wheeled and made off at full speed, + quickened by a sportive volley which the Indians rattled after him. + </p> + <p> + In high good humor with their easy triumph, the savages now formed a + circle round the fire and performed a war dance, with the unlucky trappers + for rueful spectators. This done, emboldened by what they considered + cowardice on the part of the white men, they neglected their usual mode of + bush-fighting, and advanced openly within twenty paces of the willows. A + sharp volley from the trappers brought them to a sudden halt, and laid + three of them breathless. The chief, who had stationed himself on an + eminence to direct all the movements of his people, seeing three of his + warriors laid low, ordered the rest to retire. They immediately did so, + and the whole band soon disappeared behind a point of woods, carrying off + with them the horses, traps, and the greater part of the baggage. + </p> + <p> + It was just after this misfortune that the party of ten men discovered + this forlorn band of trappers in a fortress, which they had thrown up + after their disaster. They were so perfectly dismayed, that they could not + be induced even to go in quest of their traps, which they had set in a + neighboring stream. The two parties now joined their forces, and made + their way, without further misfortune, to the rendezvous. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville perceived from the reports of these parties, as well as + from what he had observed himself in his recent march, that he was in a + neighborhood teeming with danger. Two wandering Snake Indians, also, who + visited the camp, assured him that there were two large bands of Crows + marching rapidly upon him. He broke up his encampment, therefore, on the + 1st of September, made his way to the south, across the Littlehorn + Mountain, until he reached Wind River, and then turning westward, moved + slowly up the banks of that stream, giving time for his men to trap as he + proceeded. As it was not in the plan of the present hunting campaigns to + go near the caches on Green River, and as the trappers were in want of + traps to replace those they had lost, Captain Bonneville undertook to + visit the caches, and procure a supply. To accompany him in this hazardous + expedition, which would take him through the defiles of the Wind River + Mountains, and up the Green River valley, he took but three men; the main + party were to continue on trapping up toward the head of Wind River, near + which he was to rejoin them, just about the place where that stream issues + from the mountains. We shall accompany the captain on his adventurous + errand. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0026" id="link2H_4_0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 25. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Captain Bonneville sets out for Green River valley—Journey + up the Popo Agie—Buffaloes—The staring white bears—The + smok—The warm springs—Attempt to traverse the Wind River + Mountains—The Great Slope Mountain dells and chasms— + Crystal lakes—Ascent of a snowy peak—Sublime prospect—A + panorama “Les dignes de pitie,” or wild men of the mountains +</pre> + <p> + HAVING FORDED WIND RIVER a little above its mouth, Captain Bonneville and + his three companions proceeded across a gravelly plain, until they fell + upon the Popo Agie, up the left bank of which they held their course, + nearly in a southerly direction. Here they came upon numerous droves of + buffalo, and halted for the purpose of procuring a supply of beef. As the + hunters were stealing cautiously to get within shot of the game, two small + white bears suddenly presented themselves in their path, and, rising upon + their hind legs, contemplated them for some time with a whimsically solemn + gaze. The hunters remained motionless; whereupon the bears, having + apparently satisfied their curiosity, lowered themselves upon all fours, + and began to withdraw. The hunters now advanced, upon which the bears + turned, rose again upon their haunches, and repeated their serio-comic + examination. This was repeated several times, until the hunters, piqued at + their unmannerly staring, rebuked it with a discharge of their rifles. The + bears made an awkward bound or two, as if wounded, and then walked off + with great gravity, seeming to commune together, and every now and then + turning to take another look at the hunters. It was well for the latter + that the bears were but half grown, and had not yet acquired the ferocity + of their kind. + </p> + <p> + The buffalo were somewhat startled at the report of the firearms; but the + hunters succeeded in killing a couple of fine cows, and, having secured + the best of the meat, continued forward until some time after dark, when, + encamping in a large thicket of willows, they made a great fire, roasted + buffalo beef enough for half a score, disposed of the whole of it with + keen relish and high glee, and then “turned in” for the night and slept + soundly, like weary and well fed hunters. + </p> + <p> + At daylight they were in the saddle again, and skirted along the river, + passing through fresh grassy meadows, and a succession of beautiful groves + of willows and cotton-wood. Toward evening, Captain Bonneville observed a + smoke at a distance rising from among hills, directly in the route he was + pursuing. Apprehensive of some hostile band, he concealed the horses in a + thicket, and, accompanied by one of his men, crawled cautiously up a + height, from which he could overlook the scene of danger. Here, with a + spy-glass, he reconnoitred the surrounding country, but not a lodge nor + fire, not a man, horse, nor dog, was to be discovered; in short, the smoke + which had caused such alarm proved to be the vapor from several warm, or + rather hot springs of considerable magnitude, pouring forth streams in + every direction over a bottom of white clay. One of the springs was about + twenty-five yards in diameter, and so deep that the water was of a bright + green color. + </p> + <p> + They were now advancing diagonally upon the chain of Wind River Mountains, + which lay between them and Green River valley. To coast round their + southern points would be a wide circuit; whereas, could they force their + way through them, they might proceed in a straight line. The mountains + were lofty, with snowy peaks and cragged sides; it was hoped, however, + that some practicable defile might be found. They attempted, accordingly, + to penetrate the mountains by following up one of the branches of the Popo + Agie, but soon found themselves in the midst of stupendous crags and + precipices that barred all progress. Retracing their steps, and falling + back upon the river, they consulted where to make another attempt. They + were too close beneath the mountains to scan them generally, but they now + recollected having noticed, from the plain, a beautiful slope rising, at + an angle of about thirty degrees, and apparently without any break, until + it reached the snowy region. Seeking this gentle acclivity, they began to + ascend it with alacrity, trusting to find at the top one of those elevated + plains which prevail among the Rocky Mountains. The slope was covered with + coarse gravel, interspersed with plates of freestone. They attained the + summit with some toil, but found, instead of a level, or rather undulating + plain, that they were on the brink of a deep and precipitous ravine, from + the bottom of which rose a second slope, similar to the one they had just + ascended. Down into this profound ravine they made their way by a rugged + path, or rather fissure of the rocks, and then labored up the second + slope. They gained the summit only to find themselves on another ravine, + and now perceived that this vast mountain, which had presented such a + sloping and even side to the distant beholder on the plain, was shagged by + frightful precipices, and seamed with longitudinal chasms, deep and + dangerous. + </p> + <p> + In one of these wild dells they passed the night, and slept soundly and + sweetly after their fatigues. Two days more of arduous climbing and + scrambling only served to admit them into the heart of this mountainous + and awful solitude; where difficulties increased as they proceeded. + Sometimes they scrambled from rock to rock, up the bed of some mountain + stream, dashing its bright way down to the plains; sometimes they availed + themselves of the paths made by the deer and the mountain sheep, which, + however, often took them to the brinks of fearful precipices, or led to + rugged defiles, impassable for their horses. At one place, they were + obliged to slide their horses down the face of a rock, in which attempt + some of the poor animals lost their footing, rolled to the bottom, and + came near being dashed to pieces. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon of the second day, the travellers attained one of the + elevated valleys locked up in this singular bed of mountains. Here were + two bright and beautiful little lakes, set like mirrors in the midst of + stern and rocky heights, and surrounded by grassy meadows, inexpressibly + refreshing to the eye. These probably were among the sources of those + mighty streams which take their rise among these mountains, and wander + hundreds of miles through the plains. + </p> + <p> + In the green pastures bordering upon these lakes, the travellers halted to + repose, and to give their weary horses time to crop the sweet and tender + herbage. They had now ascended to a great height above the level of the + plains, yet they beheld huge crags of granite piled one upon another, and + beetling like battlements far above them. While two of the men remained in + the camp with the horses, Captain Bonneville, accompanied by the other men + [man], set out to climb a neighboring height, hoping to gain a commanding + prospect, and discern some practicable route through this stupendous + labyrinth. After much toil, he reached the summit of a lofty cliff, but it + was only to behold gigantic peaks rising all around, and towering far into + the snowy regions of the atmosphere. Selecting one which appeared to be + the highest, he crossed a narrow intervening valley, and began to scale + it. He soon found that he had undertaken a tremendous task; but the pride + of man is never more obstinate than when climbing mountains. The ascent + was so steep and rugged that he and his companion were frequently obliged + to clamber on hands and knees, with their guns slung upon their backs. + Frequently, exhausted with fatigue, and dripping with perspiration, they + threw themselves upon the snow, and took handfuls of it to allay their + parching thirst. At one place, they even stripped off their coats and hung + them upon the bushes, and thus lightly clad, proceeded to scramble over + these eternal snows. As they ascended still higher, there were cool + breezes that refreshed and braced them, and springing with new ardor to + their task, they at length attained the summit. + </p> + <p> + Here a scene burst upon the view of Captain Bonneville, that for a time + astonished and overwhelmed him with its immensity. He stood, in fact, upon + that dividing ridge which Indians regard as the crest of the world; and on + each side of which, the landscape may be said to decline to the two + cardinal oceans of the globe. Whichever way he turned his eye, it was + confounded by the vastness and variety of objects. Beneath him, the Rocky + Mountains seemed to open all their secret recesses: deep, solemn valleys; + treasured lakes; dreary passes; rugged defiles, and foaming torrents; + while beyond their savage precincts, the eye was lost in an almost + immeasurable landscape; stretching on every side into dim and hazy + distance, like the expanse of a summer’s sea. Whichever way he looked, he + beheld vast plains glimmering with reflected sunshine; mighty streams + wandering on their shining course toward either ocean, and snowy + mountains, chain beyond chain, and peak beyond peak, till they melted like + clouds into the horizon. For a time, the Indian fable seemed realized: he + had attained that height from which the Blackfoot warrior, after death, + first catches a view of the land of souls, and beholds the happy hunting + grounds spread out below him, brightening with the abodes of the free and + generous spirits. The captain stood for a long while gazing upon this + scene, lost in a crowd of vague and indefinite ideas and sensations. A + long-drawn inspiration at length relieved him from this enthralment of the + mind, and he began to analyze the parts of this vast panorama. A simple + enumeration of a few of its features may give some idea of its collective + grandeur and magnificence. + </p> + <p> + The peak on which the captain had taken his stand commanded the whole Wind + River chain; which, in fact, may rather be considered one immense + mountain, broken into snowy peaks and lateral spurs, and seamed with + narrow valleys. Some of these valleys glittered with silver lakes and + gushing streams; the fountain heads, as it were, of the mighty tributaries + to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Beyond the snowy peaks, to the south, + and far, far below the mountain range, the gentle river, called the Sweet + Water, was seen pursuing its tranquil way through the rugged regions of + the Black Hills. In the east, the head waters of Wind River wandered + through a plain, until, mingling in one powerful current, they forced + their way through the range of Horn Mountains, and were lost to view. To + the north were caught glimpses of the upper streams of the Yellowstone, + that great tributary of the Missouri. In another direction were to be seen + some of the sources of the Oregon, or Columbia, flowing to the northwest, + past those towering landmarks the Three Tetons, and pouring down into the + great lava plain; while, almost at the captain’s feet, the Green River, or + Colorado of the West, set forth on its wandering pilgrimage to the Gulf of + California; at first a mere mountain torrent, dashing northward over a + crag and precipice, in a succession of cascades, and tumbling into the + plain where, expanding into an ample river, it circled away to the south, + and after alternately shining out and disappearing in the mazes of the + vast landscape, was finally lost in a horizon of mountains. The day was + calm and cloudless, and the atmosphere so pure that objects were + discernible at an astonishing distance. The whole of this immense area was + inclosed by an outer range of shadowy peaks, some of them faintly marked + on the horizon, which seemed to wall it in from the rest of the earth. + </p> + <p> + It is to be regretted that Captain Bonneville had no instruments with him + with which to ascertain the altitude of this peak. He gives it as his + opinion that it is the loftiest point of the North American continent; but + of this we have no satisfactory proof. It is certain that the Rocky + Mountains are of an altitude vastly superior to what was formerly + supposed. We rather incline to the opinion that the highest peak is + further to the northward, and is the same measured by Mr. Thompson, + surveyor to the Northwest Company; who, by the joint means of the + barometer and trigonometric measurement, ascertained it to be twenty-five + thousand feet above the level of the sea; an elevation only inferior to + that of the Himalayas. + </p> + <p> + For a long time, Captain Bonneville remained gazing around him with wonder + and enthusiasm; at length the chill and wintry winds, whirling about the + snow-clad height, admonished him to descend. He soon regained the spot + where he and his companions [companion] had thrown off their coats, which + were now gladly resumed, and, retracing their course down the peak, they + safely rejoined their companions on the border of the lake. + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding the savage and almost inaccessible nature of these + mountains, they have their inhabitants. As one of the party was out + hunting, he came upon the solitary track of a man in a lonely valley. + Following it up, he reached the brow of a cliff, whence he beheld three + savages running across the valley below him. He fired his gun to call + their attention, hoping to induce them to turn back. They only fled the + faster, and disappeared among the rocks. The hunter returned and reported + what he had seen. Captain Bonneville at once concluded that these belonged + to a kind of hermit race, scanty in number, that inhabit the highest and + most inaccessible fastnesses. They speak the Shoshonie language, and + probably are offsets from that tribe, though they have peculiarities of + their own, which distinguish them from all other Indians. They are + miserably poor; own no horses, and are destitute of every convenience to + be derived from an intercourse with the whites. Their weapons are bows and + stone-pointed arrows, with which they hunt the deer, the elk, and the + mountain sheep. They are to be found scattered about the countries of the + Shoshonie, Flathead, Crow, and Blackfeet tribes; but their residences are + always in lonely places, and the clefts of the rocks. + </p> + <p> + Their footsteps are often seen by the trappers in the high and solitary + valleys among the mountains, and the smokes of their fires descried among + the precipices, but they themselves are rarely met with, and still more + rarely brought to a parley, so great is their shyness, and their dread of + strangers. + </p> + <p> + As their poverty offers no temptation to the marauder, and as they are + inoffensive in their habits, they are never the objects of warfare: should + one of them, however, fall into the hands of a war party, he is sure to be + made a sacrifice, for the sake of that savage trophy, a scalp, and that + barbarous ceremony, a scalp dance. These forlorn beings, forming a mere + link between human nature and the brute, have been looked down upon with + pity and contempt by the creole trappers, who have given them the + appellation of “les dignes de pitie,” or “the objects of pity.”; They + appear more worthy to be called the wild men of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0027" id="link2H_4_0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 26. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A retrogade move Channel of a mountain torrent—Alpine + scenery—Cascades—Beaver valleys—Beavers at work—Their + architecture—Their modes of felling trees—Mode of trapping + beaver—Contests of skill—A beaver “up to trap”—Arrival at + the Green River caches +</pre> + <p> + THE VIEW from the snowy peak of the Wind River Mountains, while it had + excited Captain Bonneville’s enthusiasm, had satisfied him that it would + be useless to force a passage westward, through multiplying barriers of + cliffs and precipices. Turning his face eastward, therefore, he endeavored + to regain the plains, intending to make the circuit round the southern + point of the mountain. To descend, and to extricate himself from the heart + of this rock-piled wilderness, was almost as difficult as to penetrate it. + Taking his course down the ravine of a tumbling stream, the commencement + of some future river, he descended from rock to rock, and shelf to shelf, + between stupendous cliffs and beetling crags that sprang up to the sky. + Often he had to cross and recross the rushing torrent, as it wound foaming + and roaring down its broken channel, or was walled by perpendicular + precipices; and imminent was the hazard of breaking the legs of the horses + in the clefts and fissures of slippery rocks. The whole scenery of this + deep ravine was of Alpine wildness and sublimity. Sometimes the travellers + passed beneath cascades which pitched from such lofty heights that the + water fell into the stream like heavy rain. In other places, torrents came + tumbling from crag to crag, dashing into foam and spray, and making + tremendous din and uproar. + </p> + <p> + On the second day of their descent, the travellers, having got beyond the + steepest pitch of the mountains, came to where the deep and rugged ravine + began occasionally to expand into small levels or valleys, and the stream + to assume for short intervals a more peaceful character. Here, not merely + the river itself, but every rivulet flowing into it, was dammed up by + communities of industrious beavers, so as to inundate the neighborhood, + and make continual swamps. + </p> + <p> + During a mid-day halt in one of these beaver valleys, Captain Bonneville + left his companions, and strolled down the course of the stream to + reconnoitre. He had not proceeded far when he came to a beaver pond, and + caught a glimpse of one of its painstaking inhabitants busily at work upon + the dam. The curiosity of the captain was aroused, to behold the mode of + operating of this far-famed architect; he moved forward, therefore, with + the utmost caution, parting the branches of the water willows without + making any noise, until having attained a position commanding a view of + the whole pond, he stretched himself flat on the ground, and watched the + solitary workman. In a little while, three others appeared at the head of + the dam, bringing sticks and bushes. With these they proceeded directly to + the barrier, which Captain Bonneville perceived was in need of repair. + Having deposited their loads upon the broken part, they dived into the + water, and shortly reappeared at the surface. Each now brought a quantity + of mud, with which he would plaster the sticks and bushes just deposited. + This kind of masonry was continued for some time, repeated supplies of + wood and mud being brought, and treated in the same manner. This done, the + industrious beavers indulged in a little recreation, chasing each other + about the pond, dodging and whisking about on the surface, or diving to + the bottom; and in their frolic, often slapping their tails on the water + with a loud clacking sound. While they were thus amusing themselves, + another of the fraternity made his appearance, and looked gravely on their + sports for some time, without offering to join in them. He then climbed + the bank close to where the captain was concealed, and, rearing himself on + his hind quarters, in a sitting position, put his forepaws against a young + pine tree, and began to cut the bark with his teeth. At times he would + tear off a small piece, and holding it between his paws, and retaining his + sedentary position, would feed himself with it, after the fashion of a + monkey. The object of the beaver, however, was evidently to cut down the + tree; and he was proceeding with his work, when he was alarmed by the + approach of Captain Bonneville’s men, who, feeling anxious at the + protracted absence of their leader, were coming in search of him. At the + sound of their voices, all the beavers, busy as well as idle, dived at + once beneath the surface, and were no more to be seen. Captain Bonneville + regretted this interruption. He had heard much of the sagacity of the + beaver in cutting down trees, in which, it is said, they manage to make + them fall into the water, and in such a position and direction as may be + most favorable for conveyance to the desired point. In the present + instance, the tree was a tall straight pine, and as it grew + perpendicularly, and there was not a breath of air stirring the beaver + could have felled it in any direction he pleased, if really capable of + exercising a discretion in the matter. He was evidently engaged in + “belting” the tree, and his first incision had been on the side nearest to + the water. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville, however, discredits, on the whole, the alleged + sagacity of the beaver in this particular, and thinks the animal has no + other aim than to get the tree down, without any of the subtle calculation + as to its mode or direction of falling. This attribute, he thinks, has + been ascribed to them from the circumstance that most trees growing near + water-courses, either lean bodily toward the stream, or stretch their + largest limbs in that direction, to benefit by the space, the light, and + the air to be found there. The beaver, of course, attacks those trees + which are nearest at hand, and on the banks of the stream or pond. He + makes incisions round them, or in technical phrase, belts them with his + teeth, and when they fall, they naturally take the direction in which + their trunks or branches preponderate. + </p> + <p> + “I have often,” says Captain Bonneville, “seen trees measuring eighteen + inches in diameter, at the places where they had been cut through by the + beaver, but they lay in all directions, and often very inconveniently for + the after purposes of the animal. In fact, so little ingenuity do they at + times display in this particular, that at one of our camps on Snake River, + a beaver was found with his head wedged into the cut which he had made, + the tree having fallen upon him and held him prisoner until he died.” + </p> + <p> + Great choice, according to the captain, is certainly displayed by the + beaver in selecting the wood which is to furnish bark for winter + provision. The whole beaver household, old and young, set out upon this + business, and will often make long journeys before they are suited. + Sometimes they cut down trees of the largest size and then cull the + branches, the bark of which is most to their taste. These they cut into + lengths of about three feet, convey them to the water, and float them to + their lodges, where they are stored away for winter. They are studious of + cleanliness and comfort in their lodges, and after their repasts, will + carry out the sticks from which they have eaten the bark, and throw them + into the current beyond the barrier. They are jealous, too, of their + territories, and extremely pugnacious, never permitting a strange beaver + to enter their premises, and often fighting with such virulence as almost + to tear each other to pieces. In the spring, which is the breeding season, + the male leaves the female at home, and sets off on a tour of pleasure, + rambling often to a great distance, recreating himself in every clear and + quiet expanse of water on his way, and climbing the banks occasionally to + feast upon the tender sprouts of the young willows. As summer advances, he + gives up his bachelor rambles, and bethinking himself of housekeeping + duties, returns home to his mate and his new progeny, and marshals them + all for the foraging expedition in quest of winter provisions. + </p> + <p> + After having shown the public spirit of this praiseworthy little animal as + a member of a community, and his amiable and exemplary conduct as the + father of a family, we grieve to record the perils with which he is + environed, and the snares set for him and his painstaking household. + </p> + <p> + Practice, says Captain Bonneville, has given such a quickness of eye to + the experienced trapper in all that relates to his pursuit, that he can + detect the slightest sign of beaver, however wild; and although the lodge + may be concealed by close thickets and overhanging willows, he can + generally, at a single glance, make an accurate guess at the number of its + inmates. He now goes to work to set his trap; planting it upon the shore, + in some chosen place, two or three inches below the surface of the water, + and secures it by a chain to a pole set deep in the mud. A small twig is + then stripped of its bark, and one end is dipped in the “medicine,” as the + trappers term the peculiar bait which they employ. This end of the stick + rises about four inches above the surface of the water, the other end is + planted between the jaws of the trap. The beaver, possessing an acute + sense of smell, is soon attracted by the odor of the bait. As he raises + his nose toward it, his foot is caught in the trap. In his fright he + throws a somerset into the deep water. The trap, being fastened to the + pole, resists all his efforts to drag it to the shore; the chain by which + it is fastened defies his teeth; he struggles for a time, and at length + sinks to the bottom and is drowned. + </p> + <p> + Upon rocky bottoms, where it is not possible to plant the pole, it is + thrown into the stream. The beaver, when entrapped, often gets fastened by + the chain to sunken logs or floating timber; if he gets to shore, he is + entangled in the thickets of brook willows. In such cases, however, it + costs the trapper diligent search, and sometimes a bout at swimming, + before he finds his game. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally it happens that several members of a beaver family are + trapped in succession. The survivors then become extremely shy, and can + scarcely be “brought to medicine,” to use the trapper’s phrase for “taking + the bait.” In such case, the trapper gives up the use of the bait, and + conceals his traps in the usual paths and crossing places of the + household. The beaver now being completely “up to trap,” approaches them + cautiously, and springs them ingeniously with a stick. At other times, he + turns the traps bottom upwards, by the same means, and occasionally even + drags them to the barrier and conceals them in the mud. The trapper now + gives up the contest of ingenuity, and shouldering his traps, marches off, + admitting that he is not yet “up to beaver.” + </p> + <p> + On the day following Captain Bonneville’s supervision of the industrious + and frolicsome community of beavers, of which he has given so edifying an + account, he succeeded in extricating himself from the Wind River + Mountains, and regaining the plain to the eastward, made a great bend to + the south, so as to go round the bases of the mountains, and arrived + without further incident of importance, at the old place of rendezvous in + Green River valley, on the 17th of September. + </p> + <p> + He found the caches, in which he had deposited his superfluous goods and + equipments, all safe, and having opened and taken from them the necessary + supplies, he closed them again; taking care to obliterate all traces that + might betray them to the keen eyes of Indian marauders. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0028" id="link2H_4_0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 27. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Route toward—Wind River—Dangerous neighborhood—Alarms and + precautions—A sham encampment—Apparition of an Indian spy— + Midnight move—A mountain defile—The Wind River valley— + Tracking a party—Deserted camps—Symptoms of Crows—Meeting + of comrades—A trapper entrapped—Crow pleasantry—Crow + spies—A decampment—Return to Green River valley—Meeting + with Fitzpatrick’s party—Their adventures among the Crows— + Orthodox Crows +</pre> + <p> + ON THE 18TH of September, Captain Bonneville and his three companions set + out, bright and early, to rejoin the main party, from which they had + parted on Wind River. Their route lay up the Green River valley, with that + stream on their right hand, and beyond it, the range of Wind River + Mountains. At the head of the valley, they were to pass through a defile + which would bring them out beyond the northern end of these mountains, to + the head of Wind River; where they expected to meet the main party, + according to arrangement. + </p> + <p> + We have already adverted to the dangerous nature of this neighborhood, + infested by roving bands of Crows and Blackfeet; to whom the numerous + defiles and passes of the country afford capital places for ambush and + surprise. The travellers, therefore, kept a vigilant eye upon everything + that might give intimation of lurking danger. + </p> + <p> + About two hours after mid-day, as they reached the summit of a hill, they + discovered buffalo on the plain below, running in every direction. One of + the men, too, fancied he heard the report of a gun. It was concluded, + therefore, that there was some party of Indians below, hunting the + buffalo. + </p> + <p> + The horses were immediately concealed in a narrow ravine; and the captain, + mounting an eminence, but concealing himself from view, reconnoitred the + whole neighborhood with a telescope. Not an Indian was to be seen; so, + after halting about an hour, he resumed his journey. Convinced, however, + that he was in a dangerous neighborhood, he advanced with the utmost + caution; winding his way through hollows and ravines, and avoiding, as + much as possible, any open tract, or rising ground, that might betray his + little party to the watchful eye of an Indian scout. + </p> + <p> + Arriving, at length, at the edge of the open meadow-land bordering on the + river, he again observed the buffalo, as far as he could see, scampering + in great alarm. Once more concealing the horses, he and his companions + remained for a long time watching the various groups of the animals, as + each caught the panic and started off; but they sought in vain to discover + the cause. + </p> + <p> + They were now about to enter the mountain defile, at the head of Green + River valley, where they might be waylaid and attacked; they, therefore, + arranged the packs on their horses, in the manner most secure and + convenient for sudden flight, should such be necessary. This done, they + again set forward, keeping the most anxious look-out in every direction. + </p> + <p> + It was now drawing toward evening; but they could not think of encamping + for the night, in a place so full of danger. Captain Bonneville, + therefore, determined to halt about sunset, kindle a fire, as if for + encampment, cook and eat supper; but, as soon as it was sufficiently dark, + to make a rapid move for the summit of the mountain, and seek some + secluded spot for their night’s lodgings. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, as the sun went down, the little party came to a halt, made a + large fire, spitted their buffalo meat on wooden sticks, and, when + sufficiently roasted, planted the savory viands before them; cutting off + huge slices with their hunting knives, and supping with a hunter’s + appetite. The light of their fire would not fail, as they knew, to attract + the attention of any Indian horde in the neighborhood; but they trusted to + be off and away, before any prowlers could reach the place. While they + were supping thus hastily, however, one of their party suddenly started up + and shouted “Indians!” All were instantly on their feet, with their rifles + in their hands; but could see no enemy. The man, however, declared that he + had seen an Indian advancing, cautiously, along the trail which they had + made in coming to the encampment; who, the moment he was perceived, had + thrown himself on the ground, and disappeared. He urged Captain Bonneville + instantly to decamp. The captain, however, took the matter more coolly. + The single fact, that the Indian had endeavored to hide himself, convinced + him that he was not one of a party, on the advance to make an attack. He + was, probably, some scout, who had followed up their trail, until he came + in sight of their fire. He would, in such case, return, and report what he + had seen to his companions. These, supposing the white men had encamped + for the night, would keep aloof until very late, when all should be + asleep. They would, then, according to Indian tactics, make their stealthy + approaches, and place themselves in ambush around, preparatory to their + attack, at the usual hour of daylight. + </p> + <p> + Such was Captain Bonneville’s conclusion; in consequence of which, he + counselled his men to keep perfectly quiet, and act as if free from all + alarm, until the proper time arrived for a move. They, accordingly, + continued their repast with pretended appetite and jollity; and then + trimmed and replenished their fire, as if for a bivouac. As soon, however, + as the night had completely set in, they left their fire blazing; walked + quietly among the willows, and then leaping into their saddles, made off + as noiselessly as possible. In proportion as they left the point of danger + behind them, they relaxed in their rigid and anxious taciturnity, and + began to joke at the expense of their enemy; whom they pictured to + themselves mousing in the neighborhood of their deserted fire, waiting for + the proper time of attack, and preparing for a grand disappointment. + </p> + <p> + About midnight, feeling satisfied that they had gained a secure distance, + they posted one of their number to keep watch, in case the enemy should + follow on their trail, and then, turning abruptly into a dense and matted + thicket of willows, halted for the night at the foot of the mountain, + instead of making for the summit, as they had originally intended. + </p> + <p> + A trapper in the wilderness, like a sailor on the ocean, snatches morsels + of enjoyment in the midst of trouble, and sleeps soundly when surrounded + by danger. The little party now made their arrangements for sleep with + perfect calmness; they did not venture to make a fire and cook, it is + true, though generally done by hunters whenever they come to a halt, and + have provisions. They comforted themselves, however, by smoking a tranquil + pipe; and then calling in the watch, and turning loose the horses, + stretched themselves on their pallets, agreed that whoever should first + awake, should rouse the rest, and in a little while were all as sound + asleep as though in the midst of a fortress. + </p> + <p> + A little before day, they were all on the alert; it was the hour for + Indian maraud. A sentinel was immediately detached, to post himself at a + little distance on their trail, and give the alarm, should he see or hear + an enemy. + </p> + <p> + With the first blink of dawn, the rest sought the horses; brought them to + the camp, and tied them up, until an hour after sunrise; when, the + sentinel having reported that all was well, they sprang once more into + their saddles, and pursued the most covert and secret paths up the + mountain, avoiding the direct route. + </p> + <p> + At noon, they halted and made a hasty repast; and then bent their course + so as to regain the route from which they had diverged. They were now made + sensible of the danger from which they had just escaped. There were tracks + of Indians, who had evidently been in pursuit of them; but had recently + returned, baffled in their search. + </p> + <p> + Trusting that they had now got a fair start, and could not be overtaken + before night, even in case the Indians should renew the chase, they pushed + briskly forward, and did not encamp until late; when they cautiously + concealed themselves in a secure nook of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + Without any further alarm, they made their way to the head waters of Wind + River, and reached the neighborhood in which they had appointed the + rendezvous with their companions. It was within the precincts of the Crow + country; the Wind River valley being one of the favorite haunts of that + restless tribe. After much searching, Captain Bonneville came upon a trail + which had evidently been made by his main party. It was so old, however, + that he feared his people might have left the neighborhood; driven off, + perhaps by some of those war parties which were on the prowl. He continued + his search with great anxiety, and no little fatigue; for his horses were + jaded, and almost crippled, by their forced marches and scramblings + through rocky defiles. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, about noon, Captain Bonneville came upon a deserted + camp of his people, from which they had, evidently, turned back; but he + could find no signs to indicate why they had done so; whether they had met + with misfortune, or molestation, or in what direction they had gone. He + was now, more than ever, perplexed. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, he resumed his march with increasing anxiety. The + feet of his horses had by this time become so worn and wounded by the + rocks, that he had to make moccasons for them of buffalo hide. About noon, + he came to another deserted camp of his men; but soon after lost their + trail. After great search, he once more found it, turning in a southerly + direction along the eastern bases of the Wind River Mountains, which + towered to the right. He now pushed forward with all possible speed, in + hopes of overtaking the party. At night, he slept at another of their + camps, from which they had but recently departed. When the day dawned + sufficiently to distinguish objects, he perceived the danger that must be + dogging the heels of his main party. All about the camp were traces of + Indians who must have been prowling about it at the time his people had + passed the night there; and who must still be hovering about them. + Convinced, now, that the main party could not be at any great distance, he + mounted a scout on the best horse, and sent him forward to overtake them, + to warn them of their danger, and to order them to halt, until he should + rejoin them. + </p> + <p> + In the afternoon, to his great joy, he met the scout returning, with six + comrades from the main party, leading fresh horses for his accommodation; + and on the following day (September 25th), all hands were once more + reunited, after a separation of nearly three weeks. Their meeting was + hearty and joyous; for they had both experienced dangers and perplexities. + </p> + <p> + The main party, in pursuing their course up the Wind River valley, had + been dogged the whole way by a war party of Crows. In one place, they had + been fired upon, but without injury; in another place, one of their horses + had been cut loose, and carried off. At length, they were so closely + beset, that they were obliged to make a retrogade move, lest they should + be surprised and overcome. This was the movement which had caused such + perplexity to Captain Bonneville. + </p> + <p> + The whole party now remained encamped for two or three days, to give + repose to both men and horses. Some of the trappers, however, pursued + their vocations about the neighboring streams. While one of them was + setting his traps, he heard the tramp of horses, and looking up, beheld a + party of Crow braves moving along at no great distance, with a + considerable cavalcade. The trapper hastened to conceal himself, but was + discerned by the quick eye of the savages. With whoops and yells, they + dragged him from his hiding-place, flourished over his head their + tomahawks and scalping-knives, and for a time, the poor trapper gave + himself up for lost. Fortunately, the Crows were in a jocose, rather than + a sanguinary mood. They amused themselves heartily, for a while, at the + expense of his terrors; and after having played off divers Crow pranks and + pleasantries, suffered him to depart unharmed. It is true, they stripped + him completely, one taking his horse, another his gun, a third his traps, + a fourth his blanket, and so on, through all his accoutrements, and even + his clothing, until he was stark naked; but then they generously made him + a present of an old tattered buffalo robe, and dismissed him, with many + complimentary speeches, and much laughter. When the trapper returned to + the camp, in such sorry plight, he was greeted with peals of laughter from + his comrades and seemed more mortified by the style in which he had been + dismissed, than rejoiced at escaping with his life. A circumstance which + he related to Captain Bonneville, gave some insight into the cause of this + extreme jocularity on the part of the Crows. They had evidently had a run + of luck, and, like winning gamblers, were in high good humor. Among + twenty-six fine horses, and some mules, which composed their cavalcade, + the trapper recognized a number which had belonged to Fitzpatrick’s + brigade, when they parted company on the Bighorn. It was supposed, + therefore, that these vagabonds had been on his trail, and robbed him of + part of his cavalry. + </p> + <p> + On the day following this affair, three Crows came into Captain + Bonneville’s camp, with the most easy, innocent, if not impudent air + imaginable; walking about with the imperturbable coolness and unconcern, + in which the Indian rivals the fine gentleman. As they had not been of the + set which stripped the trapper, though evidently of the same band, they + were not molested. Indeed, Captain Bonneville treated them with his usual + kindness and hospitality; permitting them to remain all day in the camp, + and even to pass the night there. At the same time, however, he caused a + strict watch to be maintained on all their movements; and at night, + stationed an armed sentinel near them. The Crows remonstrated against the + latter being armed. This only made the captain suspect them to be spies, + who meditated treachery; he redoubled, therefore, his precautions. At the + same time, he assured his guests, that while they were perfectly welcome + to the shelter and comfort of his camp, yet, should any of their tribe + venture to approach during the night, they would certainly be shot; which + would be a very unfortunate circumstance, and much to be deplored. To the + latter remark, they fully assented; and shortly afterward commenced a wild + song, or chant, which they kept up for a long time, and in which they very + probably gave their friends, who might be prowling round the camp, notice + that the white men were on the alert. The night passed away without + disturbance. In the morning, the three Crow guests were very pressing that + Captain Bonneville and his party should accompany them to their camp, + which they said was close by. Instead of accepting their invitation, + Captain Bonneville took his departure with all possible dispatch, eager to + be out of the vicinity of such a piratical horde; nor did he relax the + diligence of his march, until, on the second day, he reached the banks of + the Sweet Water, beyond the limits of the Crow country, and a heavy fall + of snow had obliterated all traces of his course. + </p> + <p> + He now continued on for some few days, at a slower pace, round the point + of the mountain toward Green River, and arrived once more at the caches, + on the 14th of October. + </p> + <p> + Here they found traces of the band of Indians who had hunted them in the + defile toward the head waters of Wind River. Having lost all trace of them + on their way over the mountains, they had turned and followed back their + trail down the Green River valley to the caches. One of these they had + discovered and broken open, but it fortunately contained nothing but + fragments of old iron, which they had scattered about in all directions, + and then departed. In examining their deserted camp, Captain Bonneville + discovered that it numbered thirty-nine fires, and had more reason than + ever to congratulate himself on having escaped the clutches of such a + formidable band of freebooters. + </p> + <p> + He now turned his course southward, under cover of the mountains, and on + the 25th of October reached Liberge’s Ford, a tributary of the Colorado, + where he came suddenly upon the trail of this same war party, which had + crossed the stream so recently that the banks were yet wet with the water + that had been splashed upon them. To judge from their tracks, they could + not be less than three hundred warriors, and apparently of the Crow + nation. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville was extremely uneasy lest this overpowering force + should come upon him in some place where he would not have the means of + fortifying himself promptly. He now moved toward Hane’s Fork, another + tributary of the Colorado, where he encamped, and remained during the 26th + of October. Seeing a large cloud of smoke to the south, he supposed it to + arise from some encampment of Shoshonies, and sent scouts to procure + information, and to purchase a lodge. It was, in fact, a band of + Shoshonies, but with them were encamped Fitzpatrick and his party of + trappers. That active leader had an eventful story to relate of his + fortunes in the country of the Crows. After parting with Captain + Bonneville on the banks of the Bighorn, he made for the west, to trap upon + Powder and Tongue Rivers. He had between twenty and thirty men with him, + and about one hundred horses. So large a cavalcade could not pass through + the Crow country without attracting the attention of its freebooting + hordes. A large band of Crows was soon on their traces, and came up with + them on the 5th of September, just as they had reached Tongue River. The + Crow chief came forward with great appearance of friendship, and proposed + to Fitzpatrick that they should encamp together. The latter, however, not + having any faith in Crows, declined the invitation, and pitched his camp + three miles off. He then rode over with two or three men, to visit the + Crow chief, by whom he was received with great apparent cordiality. In the + meantime, however, a party of young braves, who considered them absolved + by his distrust from all scruples of honor, made a circuit privately, and + dashed into his encampment. Captain Stewart, who had remained there in the + absence of Fitzpatrick, behaved with great spirit; but the Crows were too + numerous and active. They had got possession of the camp, and soon made + booty of every thing—carrying off all the horses. On their way back + they met Fitzpatrick returning to his camp; and finished their exploit by + rifling and nearly stripping him. + </p> + <p> + A negotiation now took place between the plundered white men and the + triumphant Crows; what eloquence and management Fitzpatrick made use of, + we do not know, but he succeeded in prevailing upon the Crow chieftain to + return him his horses and many of his traps; together with his rifles and + a few rounds of ammunition for each man. He then set out with all speed to + abandon the Crow country, before he should meet with any fresh disasters. + </p> + <p> + After his departure, the consciences of some of the most orthodox Crows + pricked them sorely for having suffered such a cavalcade to escape out of + their hands. Anxious to wipe off so foul a stigma on the reputation of the + Crow nation, they followed on his trial, nor quit hovering about him on + his march until they had stolen a number of his best horses and mules. It + was, doubtless, this same band which came upon the lonely trapper on the + Popo Agie, and generously gave him an old buffalo robe in exchange for his + rifle, his traps, and all his accoutrements. With these anecdotes, we + shall, for present, take our leave of the Crow country and its vagabond + chivalry. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0029" id="link2H_4_0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 28. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A region of natural curiosities—The plain of white clay— + Hot springs—The Beer Spring—Departure to seek the free + trappers—Plain of Portneuf—Lava—Chasms and gullies— + Bannack Indians—Their hunt of the buffalo—Hunter’s feast— + Trencher heroes—Bullying of an absent foe—The damp + comrade—The Indian spy—Meeting with Hodgkiss—His + adventures—Poordevil Indians—Triumph of the Bannacks— + Blackfeet policy in war +</pre> + <p> + CROSSING AN ELEVATED RIDGE, Captain Bonneville now came upon Bear River, + which, from its source to its entrance into the Great Salt Lake, describes + the figure of a horse-shoe. One of the principal head waters of this + river, although supposed to abound with beaver, has never been visited by + the trapper; rising among rugged mountains, and being barricadoed [sic] by + fallen pine trees and tremendous precipices. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding down this river, the party encamped, on the 6th of November, at + the outlet of a lake about thirty miles long, and from two to three miles + in width, completely imbedded in low ranges of mountains, and connected + with Bear River by an impassable swamp. It is called the Little Lake, to + distinguish it from the great one of salt water. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of November, Captain Bonneville visited a place in the + neighborhood which is quite a region of natural curiosities. An area of + about half a mile square presents a level surface of white clay or + fuller’s earth, perfectly spotless, resembling a great slab of Parian + marble, or a sheet of dazzling snow. The effect is strikingly beautiful at + all times: in summer, when it is surrounded with verdure, or in autumn, + when it contrasts its bright immaculate surface with the withered herbage. + Seen from a distant eminence, it then shines like a mirror, set in the + brown landscape. Around this plain are clustered numerous springs of + various sizes and temperatures. One of them, of scalding heat, boils + furiously and incessantly, rising to the height of two or three feet. In + another place, there is an aperture in the earth, from which rushes a + column of steam that forms a perpetual cloud. The ground for some distance + around sounds hollow, and startles the solitary trapper, as he hears the + tramp of his horse giving the sound of a muffled drum. He pictures to + himself a mysterious gulf below, a place of hidden fires, and gazes round + him with awe and uneasiness. + </p> + <p> + The most noted curiosity, however, of this singular region, is the Beer + Spring, of which trappers give wonderful accounts. They are said to turn + aside from their route through the country to drink of its waters, with as + much eagerness as the Arab seeks some famous well of the desert. Captain + Bonneville describes it as having the taste of beer. His men drank it with + avidity, and in copious draughts. It did not appear to him to possess any + medicinal properties, or to produce any peculiar effects. The Indians, + however, refuse to taste it, and endeavor to persuade the white men from + doing so. + </p> + <p> + We have heard this also called the Soda Spring, and described as + containing iron and sulphur. It probably possesses some of the properties + of the Ballston water. + </p> + <p> + The time had now arrived for Captain Bonneville to go in quest of the + party of free trappers, detached in the beginning of July, under the + command of Mr. Hodgkiss, to trap upon the head waters of Salmon River. His + intention was to unite them with the party with which he was at present + travelling, that all might go into quarters together for the winter. + Accordingly, on the 11th of November, he took a temporary leave of his + band, appointing a rendezvous on Snake River, and, accompanied by three + men, set out upon his journey. His route lay across the plain of the + Portneuf, a tributary stream of Snake River, called after an unfortunate + Canadian trapper murdered by the Indians. The whole country through which + he passed bore evidence of volcanic convulsions and conflagrations in the + olden time. Great masses of lava lay scattered about in every direction; + the crags and cliffs had apparently been under the action of fire; the + rocks in some places seemed to have been in a state of fusion; the plain + was rent and split with deep chasms and gullies, some of which were partly + filled with lava. + </p> + <p> + They had not proceeded far, however, before they saw a party of horsemen, + galloping full tilt toward them. They instantly turned, and made full + speed for the covert of a woody stream, to fortify themselves among the + trees. The Indians came to a halt, and one of them came forward alone. He + reached Captain Bonneville and his men just as they were dismounting and + about to post themselves. A few words dispelled all uneasiness. It was a + party of twenty-five Bannack Indians, friendly to the whites, and they + proposed, through their envoy, that both parties should encamp together, + and hunt the buffalo, of which they had discovered several large herds + hard by. Captain Bonneville cheerfully assented to their proposition, + being curious to see their manner of hunting. + </p> + <p> + Both parties accordingly encamped together on a convenient spot, and + prepared for the hunt. The Indians first posted a boy on a small hill near + the camp, to keep a look-out for enemies. The “runners,” then, as they are + called, mounted on fleet horses, and armed with bows and arrows, moved + slowly and cautiously toward the buffalo, keeping as much as possible out + of sight, in hollows and ravines. When within a proper distance, a signal + was given, and they all opened at once like a pack of hounds, with a full + chorus of yells, dashing into the midst of the herds, and launching their + arrows to the right and left. The plain seemed absolutely to shake under + the tramp of the buffalo, as they scoured off. The cows in headlong panic, + the bulls furious with rage, uttering deep roars, and occasionally turning + with a desperate rush upon their pursuers. Nothing could surpass the + spirit, grace, and dexterity, with which the Indians managed their horses; + wheeling and coursing among the affrighted herd, and launching their + arrows with unerring aim. In the midst of the apparent confusion, they + selected their victims with perfect judgment, generally aiming at the + fattest of the cows, the flesh of the bull being nearly worthless, at this + season of the year. In a few minutes, each of the hunters had crippled + three or four cows. A single shot was sufficient for the purpose, and the + animal, once maimed, was left to be completely dispatched at the end of + the chase. Frequently, a cow was killed on the spot by a single arrow. In + one instance, Captain Bonneville saw an Indian shoot his arrow completely + through the body of a cow, so that it struck in the ground beyond. The + bulls, however, are not so easily killed as the cows, and always cost the + hunter several arrows; sometimes making battle upon the horses, and + chasing them furiously, though severely wounded, with the darts still + sticking in their flesh. + </p> + <p> + The grand scamper of the hunt being over, the Indians proceeded to + dispatch the animals that had been disabled; then cutting up the + carcasses, they returned with loads of meat to the camp, where the + choicest pieces were soon roasting before large fires, and a hunters’ + feast succeeded; at which Captain Bonneville and his men were qualified, + by previous fasting, to perform their parts with great vigor. + </p> + <p> + Some men are said to wax valorous upon a full stomach, and such seemed to + be the case with the Bannack braves, who, in proportion as they crammed + themselves with buffalo meat, grew stout of heart, until, the supper at an + end, they began to chant war songs, setting forth their mighty deeds, and + the victories they had gained over the Blackfeet. Warming with the theme, + and inflating themselves with their own eulogies, these magnanimous heroes + of the trencher would start up, advance a short distance beyond the light + of the fire, and apostrophize most vehemently their Blackfeet enemies, as + though they had been within hearing. Ruffling, and swelling, and snorting, + and slapping their breasts, and brandishing their arms, they would + vociferate all their exploits; reminding the Blackfeet how they had + drenched their towns in tears and blood; enumerate the blows they had + inflicted, the warriors they had slain, the scalps they had brought off in + triumph. Then, having said everything that could stir a man’s spleen or + pique his valor, they would dare their imaginary hearers, now that the + Bannacks were few in number, to come and take their revenge—receiving + no reply to this valorous bravado, they would conclude by all kinds of + sneers and insults, deriding the Blackfeet for dastards and poltroons, + that dared not accept their challenge. Such is the kind of swaggering and + rhodomontade in which the “red men” are prone to indulge in their + vainglorious moments; for, with all their vaunted taciturnity, they are + vehemently prone at times to become eloquent about their exploits, and to + sound their own trumpet. + </p> + <p> + Having vented their valor in this fierce effervescence, the Bannack braves + gradually calmed down, lowered their crests, smoothed their ruffled + feathers, and betook themselves to sleep, without placing a single guard + over their camp; so that, had the Blackfeet taken them at their word, but + few of these braggart heroes might have survived for any further boasting. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning, Captain Bonneville purchased a supply of buffalo + meat from his braggadocio friends; who, with all their vaporing, were in + fact a very forlorn horde, destitute of firearms, and of almost everything + that constitutes riches in savage life. The bargain concluded, the + Bannacks set off for their village, which was situated, they said, at the + mouth of the Portneuf, and Captain Bonneville and his companions shaped + their course toward Snake River. + </p> + <p> + Arrived on the banks of that river, he found it rapid and boisterous, but + not too deep to be forded. In traversing it, however, one of the horses + was swept suddenly from his footing, and his rider was flung from the + saddle into the midst of the stream. Both horse and horseman were + extricated without any damage, excepting that the latter was completely + drenched, so that it was necessary to kindle a fire to dry him. While they + were thus occupied, one of the party looking up, perceived an Indian scout + cautiously reconnoitring them from the summit of a neighboring hill. The + moment he found himself discovered, he disappeared behind the hill. From + his furtive movements, Captain Bonneville suspected him to be a scout from + the Blackfeet camp, and that he had gone to report what he had seen to his + companions. It would not do to loiter in such a neighborhood, so the + kindling of the fire was abandoned, the drenched horseman mounted in + dripping condition, and the little band pushed forward directly into the + plain, going at a smart pace, until they had gained a considerable + distance from the place of supposed danger. Here encamping for the night, + in the midst of abundance of sage, or wormwood, which afforded fodder for + their horses, they kindled a huge fire for the benefit of their damp + comrade, and then proceeded to prepare a sumptuous supper of buffalo humps + and ribs, and other choice bits, which they had brought with them. After a + hearty repast, relished with an appetite unknown to city epicures, they + stretched themselves upon their couches of skins, and under the starry + canopy of heaven, enjoyed the sound and sweet sleep of hardy and well-fed + mountaineers. + </p> + <p> + They continued on their journey for several days, without any incident + worthy of notice, and on the 19th of November, came upon traces of the + party of which they were in search; such as burned patches of prairie, and + deserted camping grounds. All these were carefully examined, to discover + by their freshness or antiquity the probable time that the trappers had + left them; at length, after much wandering and investigating, they came + upon the regular trail of the hunting party, which led into the mountains, + and following it up briskly, came about two o’clock in the afternoon of + the 20th, upon the encampment of Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, + in the bosom of a mountain valley. + </p> + <p> + It will be recollected that these free trappers, who were masters of + themselves and their movements, had refused to accompany Captain + Bonneville back to Green River in the preceding month of July, preferring + to trap about the upper waters of the Salmon River, where they expected to + find plenty of beaver, and a less dangerous neighborhood. Their hunt had + not been very successful. They had penetrated the great range of mountains + among which some of the upper branches of Salmon River take their rise, + but had become so entangled among immense and almost impassable barricades + of fallen pines, and so impeded by tremendous precipices, that a great + part of their season had been wasted among these mountains. At one time, + they had made their way through them, and reached the Boisee River; but + meeting with a band of Bannack Indians, from whom they apprehended + hostilities, they had again taken shelter among the mountains, where they + were found by Captain Bonneville. In the neighborhood of their encampment, + the captain had the good fortune to meet with a family of those wanderers + of the mountains, emphatically called “les dignes de pitie,” or Poordevil + Indians. These, however, appear to have forfeited the title, for they had + with them a fine lot of skins of beaver, elk, deer, and mountain sheep. + These, Captain Bonneville purchased from them at a fair valuation, and + sent them off astonished at their own wealth, and no doubt objects of envy + to all their pitiful tribe. + </p> + <p> + Being now reinforced by Hodgkiss and his band of free trappers, Captain + Bonneville put himself at the head of the united parties, and set out to + rejoin those he had recently left at the Beer Spring, that they might all + go into winter quarters on Snake River. On his route, he encountered many + heavy falls of snow, which melted almost immediately, so as not to impede + his march, and on the 4th of December, he found his other party, encamped + at the very place where he had partaken in the buffalo hunt with the + Bannacks. + </p> + <p> + That braggart horde was encamped but about three miles off, and were just + then in high glee and festivity, and more swaggering than ever, + celebrating a prodigious victory. It appeared that a party of their braves + being out on a hunting excursion, discovered a band of Blackfeet moving, + as they thought, to surprise their hunting camp. The Bannacks immediately + posted themselves on each side of a dark ravine, through which the enemy + must pass, and, just as they were entangled in the midst of it, attacked + them with great fury. The Blackfeet, struck with sudden panic, threw off + their buffalo robes and fled, leaving one of their warriors dead on the + spot. The victors eagerly gathered up the spoils; but their greatest prize + was the scalp of the Blackfoot brave. This they bore off in triumph to + their village, where it had ever since been an object of the greatest + exultation and rejoicing. It had been elevated upon a pole in the centre + of the village, where the warriors had celebrated the scalp dance round + it, with war feasts, war songs, and warlike harangues. It had then been + given up to the women and boys; who had paraded it up and down the village + with shouts and chants and antic dances; occasionally saluting it with all + kinds of taunts, invectives, and revilings. + </p> + <p> + The Blackfeet, in this affair, do not appear to have acted up to the + character which has rendered them objects of such terror. Indeed, their + conduct in war, to the inexperienced observer, is full of inconsistencies; + at one time they are headlong in courage, and heedless of danger; at + another time cautious almost to cowardice. To understand these apparent + incongruities, one must know their principles of warfare. A war party, + however triumphant, if they lose a warrior in the fight, bring back a + cause of mourning to their people, which casts a shade over the glory of + their achievement. Hence, the Indian is often less fierce and reckless in + general battle, than he is in a private brawl; and the chiefs are checked + in their boldest undertakings by the fear of sacrificing their warriors. + </p> + <p> + This peculiarity is not confined to the Blackfeet. Among the Osages, says + Captain Bonneville, when a warrior falls in battle, his comrades, though + they may have fought with consummate valor, and won a glorious victory, + will leave their arms upon the field of battle, and returning home with + dejected countenances, will halt without the encampment, and wait until + the relatives of the slain come forth and invite them to mingle again with + their people. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0030" id="link2H_4_0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 29. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Winter camp at the Portneuf—Fine springs—The Bannack + Indians—Their honesty—Captain—Bonneville prepares for an + expedition—Christmas—The American—Falls—Wild scenery— + Fishing Falls—Snake Indians—Scenery on the Bruneau—View + of volcanic country from a mountain—Powder River— + Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers—Their character, habits, + habitations, dogs—Vanity at its last shift +</pre> + <p> + IN ESTABLISHING his winter camp near the Portneuf, Captain Bonneville had + drawn off to some little distance from his Bannack friends, to avoid all + annoyance from their intimacy or intrusions. In so doing, however, he had + been obliged to take up his quarters on the extreme edge of the flat land, + where he was encompassed with ice and snow, and had nothing better for his + horses to subsist on than wormwood. The Bannacks, on the contrary, were + encamped among fine springs of water, where there was grass in abundance. + Some of these springs gush out of the earth in sufficient quantity to turn + a mill; and furnish beautiful streams, clear as crystal, and full of trout + of a large size, which may be seen darting about the transparent water. + </p> + <p> + Winter now set in regularly. The snow had fallen frequently, and in large + quantities, and covered the ground to a depth of a foot; and the continued + coldness of the weather prevented any thaw. + </p> + <p> + By degrees, a distrust which at first subsisted between the Indians and + the trappers, subsided, and gave way to mutual confidence and good will. A + few presents convinced the chiefs that the white men were their friends; + nor were the white men wanting in proofs of the honesty and good faith of + their savage neighbors. Occasionally, the deep snow and the want of fodder + obliged them to turn their weakest horses out to roam in quest of + sustenance. If they at any time strayed to the camp of the Bannacks, they + were immediately brought back. It must be confessed, however, that if the + stray horse happened, by any chance, to be in vigorous plight and good + condition, though he was equally sure to be returned by the honest + Bannacks, yet it was always after the lapse of several days, and in a very + gaunt and jaded state; and always with the remark that they had found him + a long way off. The uncharitable were apt to surmise that he had, in the + interim, been well used up in a buffalo hunt; but those accustomed to + Indian morality in the matter of horseflesh, considered it a singular + evidence of honesty that he should be brought back at all. + </p> + <p> + Being convinced, therefore, from these, and other circumstances, that his + people were encamped in the neighborhood of a tribe as honest as they were + valiant, and satisfied that they would pass their winter unmolested, + Captain Bonneville prepared for a reconnoitring expedition of great extent + and peril. This was, to penetrate to the Hudson’s Bay establishments on + the banks of the Columbia, and to make himself acquainted with the country + and the Indian tribes; it being one part of his scheme to establish a + trading post somewhere on the lower part of the river, so as to + participate in the trade lost to the United States by the capture of + Astoria. This expedition would, of course, take him through the Snake + River country, and across the Blue Mountains, the scenes of so much + hardship and disaster to Hunt and Crooks, and their Astorian bands, who + first explored it, and he would have to pass through it in the same + frightful season, the depth of winter. + </p> + <p> + The idea of risk and hardship, however, only served to stimulate the + adventurous spirit of the captain. He chose three companions for his + journey, put up a small stock of necessaries in the most portable form, + and selected five horses and mules for themselves and their baggage. He + proposed to rejoin his band in the early part of March, at the winter + encampment near the Portneuf. All these arrangements being completed, he + mounted his horse on Christmas morning, and set off with his three + comrades. They halted a little beyond the Bannack camp, and made their + Christmas dinner, which, if not a very merry, was a very hearty one, after + which they resumed their journey. + </p> + <p> + They were obliged to travel slowly, to spare their horses; for the snow + had increased in depth to eighteen inches; and though somewhat packed and + frozen, was not sufficiently so to yield firm footing. Their route lay to + the west, down along the left side of Snake River; and they were several + days in reaching the first, or American Falls. The banks of the river, for + a considerable distance, both above and below the falls, have a volcanic + character: masses of basaltic rock are piled one upon another; the water + makes its way through their broken chasms, boiling through narrow + channels, or pitching in beautiful cascades over ridges of basaltic + columns. + </p> + <p> + Beyond these falls, they came to a picturesque, but inconsiderable stream, + called the Cassie. It runs through a level valley, about four miles wide, + where the soil is good; but the prevalent coldness and dryness of the + climate is unfavorable to vegetation. Near to this stream there is a small + mountain of mica slate, including garnets. Granite, in small blocks, is + likewise seen in this neighborhood, and white sandstone. From this river, + the travellers had a prospect of the snowy heights of the Salmon River + Mountains to the north; the nearest, at least fifty miles distant. + </p> + <p> + In pursuing his course westward, Captain Bonneville generally kept several + miles from Snake River, crossing the heads of its tributary streams; + though he often found the open country so encumbered by volcanic rocks, as + to render travelling extremely difficult. Whenever he approached Snake + River, he found it running through a broad chasm, with steep, + perpendicular sides of basaltic rock. After several days’ travel across a + level plain, he came to a part of the river which filled him with + astonishment and admiration. As far as the eye could reach, the river was + walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty feet high, + beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and fragments lay + in masses at their feet, in the midst of the boiling and whirling current. + Just above, the whole stream pitched in one cascade above forty feet in + height, with a thundering sound, casting up a volume of spray that hung in + the air like a silver mist. These are called by some the Fishing Falls, as + the salmon are taken here in immense quantities. They cannot get by these + falls. + </p> + <p> + After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at sunrise, + descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or rather crevice, in + the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered the river; this being the + only mode, for many miles, of getting to the margin of the stream. + </p> + <p> + The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so that their + travelling was much more easy than it had been hitherto. There were foot + tracks, also, made by the natives, which greatly facilitated their + progress. Occasionally, they met the inhabitants of this wild region; a + timid race, and but scantily provided with the necessaries of life. Their + dress consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed of strips of + rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their shoulders, in the + ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their weapons were bows and + arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which abounds in the + neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like haystacks, and constructed of + branches of willow covered with long grass, so as to be warm and + comfortable. Occasionally, they were surrounded by small inclosures of + wormwood, about three feet high, which gave them a cottage-like + appearance. Three or four of these tenements were occasionally grouped + together in some wild and striking situation, and had a picturesque + effect. Sometimes they were in sufficient number to form a small hamlet. + From these people, Captain Bonneville’s party frequently purchased salmon, + dried in an admirable manner, as were likewise the roes. This seemed to be + their prime article of food; but they were extremely anxious to get + buffalo meat in exchange. + </p> + <p> + The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so long + inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which they were + enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off considerable bends of the + river. + </p> + <p> + Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the scenery + of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic character. The + rocks present every variety of masses and grouping. Numerous small streams + come rushing and boiling through narrow clefts and ravines: one of a + considerable size issued from the face of a precipice, within twenty-five + feet of its summit; and after running in nearly a horizontal line for + about one hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to the rocky + bank of the river. + </p> + <p> + In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River is upward + of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring water. Sometimes it + steals along with a tranquil and noiseless course; at other times, for + miles and miles, it dashes on in a thousand rapids, wild and beautiful to + the eye, and lulling the ear with the soft tumult of plashing waters. + </p> + <p> + Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the wildness and + picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the Bruneau; is particularly + cited. It runs through a tremendous chasm, rather than a valley, extending + upwards of a hundred and fifty miles. You come upon it on a sudden, in + traversing a level plain. It seems as if you could throw a stone across + from cliff to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand feet deep: so + that the river looks like an inconsiderable stream. Basaltic rocks rise + perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get from the plain to the + water, or from the river margin to the plain. The current is bright and + limpid. Hot springs are found on the borders of this river. One bursts out + of the cliffs forty feet above the river, in a stream sufficient to turn a + mill, and sends up a cloud of vapor. + </p> + <p> + We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of mountains and + streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth, which lies before us; who + ascended a peak in the neighborhood we are describing. From this summit, + the country, he says, appears an indescribable chaos; the tops of the + hills exhibit the same strata as far as the eye can reach; and appear to + have once formed the level of the country; and the valleys to be formed by + the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the hills. Through the + deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and brooks make their way, + which renders it difficult to follow them. All these basaltic channels are + called cut rocks by the trappers. Many of the mountain streams disappear + in the plains; either absorbed by their thirsty soil, and by the porous + surface of the lava, or swallowed up in gulfs and chasms. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder River; + much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the Portneuf. He + struck it about three miles above its entrance into Snake River. Here he + found himself above the lower narrows and defiles of the latter river, and + in an open and level country. The natives now made their appearance in + considerable numbers, and evinced the most insatiable curiosity respecting + the white men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed to the + bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the strangers, and + watching every movement. These are of that branch of the great Snake tribe + called Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, from their subsisting, in a great + measure, on the roots of the earth; though they likewise take fish in + great quantities, and hunt, in a small way. They are, in general, very + poor; destitute of most of the comforts of life, and extremely indolent: + but a mild, inoffensive race. They differ, in many respects, from the + other branch of the Snake tribe, the Shoshonies; who possess horses, are + more roving and adventurous, and hunt the buffalo. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, as Captain Bonneville approached the mouth of Powder + River, he discovered at least a hundred families of these Diggers, as they + are familiarly called, assembled in one place. The women and children kept + at a distance, perched among the rocks and cliffs; their eager curiosity + being somewhat dashed with fear. From their elevated posts, they + scrutinized the strangers with the most intense earnestness; regarding + them with almost as much awe as if they had been beings of a supernatural + order. + </p> + <p> + The men, however, were by no means so shy and reserved; but importuned + Captain Bonneville and his companions excessively by their curiosity. + Nothing escaped their notice; and any thing they could lay their hands on + underwent the most minute examination. To get rid of such inquisitive + neighbors, the travellers kept on for a considerable distance, before they + encamped for the night. + </p> + <p> + The country, hereabout, was generally level and sandy; producing very + little grass, but a considerable quantity of sage or wormwood. The plains + were diversified by isolated hills, all cut off, as it were, about the + same height, so as to have tabular summits. In this they resembled the + isolated hills of the great prairies, east of the Rocky Mountains; + especially those found on the plains of the Arkansas. + </p> + <p> + The high precipices which had hitherto walled in the channel of Snake + River had now disappeared; and the banks were of the ordinary height. It + should be observed, that the great valleys or plains, through which the + Snake River wound its course, were generally of great breadth, extending + on each side from thirty to forty miles; where the view was bounded by + unbroken ridges of mountains. + </p> + <p> + The travellers found but little snow in the neighborhood of Powder River, + though the weather continued intensely cold. They learned a lesson, + however, from their forlorn friends, the Root Diggers, which they + subsequently found of great service in their wintry wanderings. They + frequently observed them to be furnished with long ropes, twisted from the + bark of the wormwood. This they used as a slow match, carrying it always + lighted. Whenever they wished to warm themselves, they would gather + together a little dry wormwood, apply the match, and in an instant produce + a cheering blaze. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville gives a cheerless account of a village of these + Diggers, which he saw in crossing the plain below Powder River. “They + live,” says he, “without any further protection from the inclemency of the + season, than a sort of break-weather, about three feet high, composed of + sage (or wormwood), and erected around them in the shape of a half moon.” + Whenever he met with them, however, they had always a large suite of + half-starved dogs: for these animals, in savage as well as in civilized + life, seem to be the concomitants of beggary. + </p> + <p> + These dogs, it must be allowed, were of more use than the beggary curs of + cities. The Indian children used them in hunting the small game of the + neighborhood, such as rabbits and prairie dogs; in which mongrel kind of + chase they acquitted themselves with some credit. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes the Diggers aspire to nobler game, and succeed in entrapping the + antelope, the fleetest animal of the prairies. The process by which this + is effected is somewhat singular. When the snow has disappeared, says + Captain Bonneville, and the ground become soft, the women go into the + thickest fields of wormwood, and pulling it up in great quantities, + construct with it a hedge, about three feet high, inclosing about a + hundred acres. A single opening is left for the admission of the game. + This done, the women conceal themselves behind the wormwood, and wait + patiently for the coming of the antelopes; which sometimes enter this + spacious trap in considerable numbers. As soon as they are in, the women + give the signal, and the men hasten to play their part. But one of them + enters the pen at a time; and, after chasing the terrified animals round + the inclosure, is relieved by one of his companions. In this way the + hunters take their turns, relieving each other, and keeping up a continued + pursuit by relays, without fatigue to themselves. The poor antelopes, in + the end, are so wearied down, that the whole party of men enter and + dispatch them with clubs; not one escaping that has entered the inclosure. + The most curious circumstance in this chase is, that an animal so fleet + and agile as the antelope, and straining for its life, should range round + and round this fated inclosure, without attempting to overleap the low + barrier which surrounds it. Such, however, is said to be the fact; and + such their only mode of hunting the antelope. + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding the absence of all comfort and convenience in their + habitations, and the general squalidness of their appearance, the + Shoshokoes do not appear to be destitute of ingenuity. They manufacture + good ropes, and even a tolerably fine thread, from a sort of weed found in + their neighborhood; and construct bowls and jugs out of a kind of + basket-work formed from small strips of wood plaited: these, by the aid of + a little wax, they render perfectly water tight. Beside the roots on which + they mainly depend for subsistence, they collect great quantities of seed, + of various kinds, beaten with one hand out of the tops of the plants into + wooden bowls held for that purpose. The seed thus collected is winnowed + and parched, and ground between two stones into a kind of meal or flour; + which, when mixed with water, forms a very palatable paste or gruel. + </p> + <p> + Some of these people, more provident and industrious than the rest, lay up + a stock of dried salmon, and other fish, for winter: with these, they were + ready to traffic with the travellers for any objects of utility in Indian + life; giving a large quantity in exchange for an awl, a knife, or a + fish-hook. Others were in the most abject state of want and starvation; + and would even gather up the fish-bones which the travellers threw away + after a repast, warm them over again at the fire, and pick them with the + greatest avidity. + </p> + <p> + The farther Captain Bonneville advanced into the country of these Root + Diggers, the more evidence he perceived of their rude and forlorn + condition. “They were destitute,” says he, “of the necessary covering to + protect them from the weather; and seemed to be in the most + unsophisticated ignorance of any other propriety or advantage in the use + of clothing. One old dame had absolutely nothing on her person but a + thread round her neck, from which was pendant a solitary bead.” + </p> + <p> + What stage of human destitution, however, is too destitute for vanity! + Though these naked and forlorn-looking beings had neither toilet to + arrange, nor beauty to contemplate, their greatest passion was for a + mirror. It was a “great medicine,” in their eyes. The sight of one was + sufficient, at any time, to throw them into a paroxysm of eagerness and + delight; and they were ready to give anything they had for the smallest + fragment in which they might behold their squalid features. With this + simple instance of vanity, in its primitive but vigorous state, we shall + close our remarks on the Root Diggers. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0031" id="link2H_4_0031"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 30. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Temperature of the climate—Root Diggers on horseback—An + Indian guide—Mountain prospects—The Grand Rond— + Difficulties on Snake River—A scramble over the Blue + Mountains—Sufferings from hunger—Prospect of the Immahah + Valley—The exhausted traveller +</pre> + <p> + THE TEMPERATURE of the regions west of the Rocky Mountains is much milder + than in the same latitudes on the Atlantic side; the upper plains, + however, which lie at a distance from the sea-coast, are subject in winter + to considerable vicissitude; being traversed by lofty “sierras,” crowned + with perpetual snow, which often produce flaws and streaks of intense cold + This was experienced by Captain Bonneville and his companions in their + progress westward. At the time when they left the Bannacks Snake River was + frozen hard: as they proceeded, the ice became broken and floating; it + gradually disappeared, and the weather became warm and pleasant, as they + approached a tributary stream called the Little Wyer; and the soil, which + was generally of a watery clay, with occasional intervals of sand, was + soft to the tread of the horses. After a time, however, the mountains + approached and flanked the river; the snow lay deep in the valleys, and + the current was once more icebound. + </p> + <p> + Here they were visited by a party of Root Diggers, who were apparently + rising in the world, for they had “horse to ride and weapon to wear,” and + were altogether better clad and equipped than any of the tribe that + Captain Bonneville had met with. They were just from the plain of Boisee + River, where they had left a number of their tribe, all as well provided + as themselves; having guns, horses, and comfortable clothing. All these + they obtained from the Lower Nez Perces, with whom they were in habits + [sic] of frequent traffic. They appeared to have imbibed from that tribe + their non-combative principles, being mild and inoffensive in their + manners. Like them, also, they had something of religious feelings; for + Captain Bonneville observed that, before eating, they washed their hands, + and made a short prayer; which he understood was their invariable custom. + From these Indians, he obtained a considerable supply of fish, and an + excellent and well-conditioned horse, to replace one which had become too + weak for the journey. + </p> + <p> + The travellers now moved forward with renovated spirits; the snow, it is + true, lay deeper and deeper as they advanced, but they trudged on merrily, + considering themselves well provided for the journey, which could not be + of much longer duration. + </p> + <p> + They had intended to proceed up the banks of Gun Creek, a stream which + flows into Snake River from the west; but were assured by the natives that + the route in that direction was impracticable. The latter advised them to + keep along Snake River, where they would not be impeded by the snow. + Taking one of the Diggers for a guide, they set off along the river, and + to their joy soon found the country free from snow, as had been predicted, + so that their horses once more had the benefit of tolerable pasturage. + Their Digger proved an excellent guide, trudging cheerily in the advance. + He made an unsuccessful shot or two at a deer and a beaver; but at night + found a rabbit hole, whence he extracted the occupant, upon which, with + the addition of a fish given him by the travellers, he made a hearty + supper, and retired to rest, filled with good cheer and good humor. + </p> + <p> + The next day the travellers came to where the hills closed upon the river, + leaving here and there intervals of undulating meadow land. The river was + sheeted with ice, broken into hills at long intervals. The Digger kept on + ahead of the party, crossing and recrossing the river in pursuit of game, + until, unluckily, encountering a brother Digger, he stole off with him, + without the ceremony of leave-taking. + </p> + <p> + Being now left to themselves, they proceeded until they came to some + Indian huts, the inhabitants of which spoke a language totally different + from any they had yet heard. One, however, understood the Nez Perce + language, and through him they made inquiries as to their route. These + Indians were extremely kind and honest, and furnished them with a small + quantity of meat; but none of them could be induced to act as guides. + </p> + <p> + Immediately in the route of the travellers lay a high mountain, which they + ascended with some difficulty. The prospect from the summit was grand but + disheartening. Directly before them towered the loftiest peaks of Immahah, + rising far higher than the elevated ground on which they stood: on the + other hand, they were enabled to scan the course of the river, dashing + along through deep chasms, between rocks and precipices, until lost in a + distant wilderness of mountains, which closed the savage landscape. + </p> + <p> + They remained for a long time contemplating, with perplexed and anxious + eye, this wild congregation of mountain barriers, and seeking to discover + some practicable passage. The approach of evening obliged them to give up + the task, and to seek some camping ground for the night. Moving briskly + forward, and plunging and tossing through a succession of deep + snow-drifts, they at length reached a valley known among trappers as the + “Grand Rond,” which they found entirely free from snow. + </p> + <p> + This is a beautiful and very fertile valley, about twenty miles long and + five or six broad; a bright cold stream called the Fourche de Glace, or + Ice River, runs through it. Its sheltered situation, embosomed in + mountains, renders it good pasturaging ground in the winter time; when the + elk come down to it in great numbers, driven out of the mountains by the + snow. The Indians then resort to it to hunt. They likewise come to it in + the summer time to dig the camash root, of which it produces immense + quantities. When this plant is in blossom, the whole valley is tinted by + its blue flowers, and looks like the ocean when overcast by a cloud. + </p> + <p> + After passing a night in this valley, the travellers in the morning scaled + the neighboring hills, to look out for a more eligible route than that + upon which they had unluckily fallen; and, after much reconnoitring, + determined to make their way once more to the river, and to travel upon + the ice when the banks should prove impassable. + </p> + <p> + On the second day after this determination, they were again upon Snake + River, but, contrary to their expectations, it was nearly free from ice. A + narrow riband ran along the shore, and sometimes there was a kind of + bridge across the stream, formed of old ice and snow. For a short time, + they jogged along the bank, with tolerable facility, but at length came to + where the river forced its way into the heart of the mountains, winding + between tremendous walls of basaltic rock, that rose perpendicularly from + the water’s edge, frowning in bleak and gloomy grandeur. Here difficulties + of all kinds beset their path. The snow was from two to three feet deep, + but soft and yielding, so that the horses had no foothold, but kept + plunging forward, straining themselves by perpetual efforts. Sometimes the + crags and promontories forced them upon the narrow riband of ice that + bordered the shore; sometimes they had to scramble over vast masses of + rock which had tumbled from the impending precipices; sometimes they had + to cross the stream upon the hazardous bridges of ice and snow, sinking to + the knee at every step; sometimes they had to scale slippery acclivities, + and to pass along narrow cornices, glazed with ice and sleet, a + shouldering wall of rock on one side, a yawning precipice on the other, + where a single false step would have been fatal. In a lower and less + dangerous pass, two of their horses actually fell into the river; one was + saved with much difficulty, but the boldness of the shore prevented their + rescuing the other, and he was swept away by the rapid current. + </p> + <p> + In this way they struggled forward, manfully braving difficulties and + dangers, until they came to where the bed of the river was narrowed to a + mere chasm, with perpendicular walls of rock that defied all further + progress. Turning their faces now to the mountain, they endeavored to + cross directly over it; but, after clambering nearly to the summit, found + their path closed by insurmountable barriers. + </p> + <p> + Nothing now remained but to retrace their steps. To descend a cragged + mountain, however, was more difficult and dangerous than to ascend it. + They had to lower themselves cautiously and slowly, from steep to steep; + and, while they managed with difficulty to maintain their own footing, to + aid their horses by holding on firmly to the rope halters, as the poor + animals stumbled among slippery rocks, or slid down icy declivities. Thus, + after a day of intense cold, and severe and incessant toil, amidst the + wildest of scenery, they managed, about nightfall, to reach the camping + ground, from which they had started in the morning, and for the first time + in the course of their rugged and perilous expedition, felt their hearts + quailing under their multiplied hardships. + </p> + <p> + A hearty supper, a tranquillizing pipe, and a sound night’s sleep, put + them all in better mood, and in the morning they held a consultation as to + their future movements. About four miles behind, they had remarked a small + ridge of mountains approaching closely to the river. It was determined to + scale this ridge, and seek a passage into the valley which must lie + beyond. Should they fail in this, but one alternative remained. To kill + their horses, dry the flesh for provisions, make boats of the hides, and, + in these, commit themselves to the stream—a measure hazardous in the + extreme. + </p> + <p> + A short march brought them to the foot of the mountain, but its steep and + cragged sides almost discouraged hope. The only chance of scaling it was + by broken masses of rock, piled one upon another, which formed a + succession of crags, reaching nearly to the summit. Up these they wrought + their way with indescribable difficulty and peril, in a zigzag course, + climbing from rock to rock, and helping their horses up after them; which + scrambled among the crags like mountain goats; now and then dislodging + some huge stone, which, the moment they had left it, would roll down the + mountain, crashing and rebounding with terrific din. It was some time + after dark before they reached a kind of platform on the summit of the + mountain, where they could venture to encamp. The winds, which swept this + naked height, had whirled all the snow into the valley beneath, so that + the horses found tolerable winter pasturage on the dry grass which + remained exposed. The travellers, though hungry in the extreme, were fain + to make a very frugal supper; for they saw their journey was likely to be + prolonged much beyond the anticipated term. + </p> + <p> + In fact, on the following day they discerned that, although already at a + great elevation, they were only as yet upon the shoulder of the mountain. + It proved to be a great sierra, or ridge, of immense height, running + parallel to the course of the river, swelling by degrees to lofty peaks, + but the outline gashed by deep and precipitous ravines. This, in fact, was + a part of the chain of Blue Mountains, in which the first adventurers to + Astoria experienced such hardships. + </p> + <p> + We will not pretend to accompany the travellers step by step in this + tremendous mountain scramble, into which they had unconsciously betrayed + themselves. Day after day did their toil continue; peak after peak had + they to traverse, struggling with difficulties and hardships known only to + the mountain trapper. As their course lay north, they had to ascend the + southern faces of the heights, where the sun had melted the snow, so as to + render the ascent wet and slippery, and to keep both men and horses + continually on the strain; while on the northern sides, the snow lay in + such heavy masses, that it was necessary to beat a track down which the + horses might be led. Every now and then, also, their way was impeded by + tall and numerous pines, some of which had fallen, and lay in every + direction. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of these toils and hardships, their provisions gave out. For + three days they were without food, and so reduced that they could scarcely + drag themselves along. At length one of the mules, being about to give out + from fatigue and famine, they hastened to dispatch him. Husbanding this + miserable supply, they dried the flesh, and for three days subsisted upon + the nutriment extracted from the bones. As to the meat, it was packed and + preserved as long as they could do without it, not knowing how long they + might remain bewildered in these desolate regions. + </p> + <p> + One of the men was now dispatched ahead, to reconnoitre the country, and + to discover, if possible, some more practicable route. In the meantime, + the rest of the party moved on slowly. After a lapse of three days, the + scout rejoined them. He informed them that Snake River ran immediately + below the sierra or mountainous ridge, upon which they were travelling; + that it was free from precipices, and was at no great distance from them + in a direct line; but that it would be impossible for them to reach it + without making a weary circuit. Their only course would be to cross the + mountain ridge to the left. + </p> + <p> + Up this mountain, therefore, the weary travellers directed their steps; + and the ascent, in their present weak and exhausted state, was one of the + severest parts of this most painful journey. For two days were they + toiling slowly from cliff to cliff, beating at every step a path through + the snow for their faltering horses. At length they reached the summit, + where the snow was blown off; but in descending on the opposite side, they + were often plunging through deep drifts, piled in the hollows and ravines. + </p> + <p> + Their provisions were now exhausted, and they and their horses almost + ready to give out with fatigue and hunger; when one afternoon, just as the + sun was sinking behind a blue line of distant mountain, they came to the + brow of a height from which they beheld the smooth valley of the Immahah + stretched out in smiling verdure below them. + </p> + <p> + The sight inspired almost a frenzy of delight. Roused to new ardor, they + forgot, for a time, their fatigues, and hurried down the mountain, + dragging their jaded horses after them, and sometimes compelling them to + slide a distance of thirty or forty feet at a time. At length they reached + the banks of the Immahah. The young grass was just beginning to sprout, + and the whole valley wore an aspect of softness, verdure, and repose, + heightened by the contrast of the frightful region from which they had + just descended. To add to their joy, they observed Indian trails along the + margin of the stream, and other signs, which gave them reason to believe + that there was an encampment of the Lower Nez Perces in the neighborhood, + as it was within the accustomed range of that pacific and hospitable + tribe. + </p> + <p> + The prospect of a supply of food stimulated them to new exertion, and they + continued on as fast as the enfeebled state of themselves and their steeds + would permit. At length, one of the men, more exhausted than the rest, + threw himself upon the grass, and declared he could go no further. It was + in vain to attempt to rouse him; his spirit had given out, and his replies + only showed the dogged apathy of despair. His companions, therefore, + encamped on the spot, kindled a blazing fire, and searched about for roots + with which to strengthen and revive him. They all then made a starveling + repast; but gathering round the fire, talked over past dangers and + troubles, soothed themselves with the persuasion that all were now at an + end, and went to sleep with the comforting hope that the morrow would + bring them into plentiful quarters. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0032" id="link2H_4_0032"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 31. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Progress in the valley—An Indian cavalier—The captain + falls into a lethargy—A Nez-Perce patriarch—Hospitable + treatment—The bald head—Bargaining—Value of an old plaid + cloak—The family horse—The cost of an Indian present +</pre> + <p> + A TRANQUIL NIGHT’S REST had sufficiently restored the broken down + traveller to enable him to resume his wayfaring, and all hands set forward + on the Indian trail. With all their eagerness to arrive within reach of + succor, such was their feeble and emaciated condition, that they advanced + but slowly. Nor is it a matter of surprise that they should almost have + lost heart, as well as strength. It was now (the 16th of February) + fifty-three days that they had been travelling in the midst of winter, + exposed to all kinds of privations and hardships: and for the last twenty + days, they had been entangled in the wild and desolate labyrinths of the + snowy mountains; climbing and descending icy precipices, and nearly + starved with cold and hunger. + </p> + <p> + All the morning they continued following the Indian trail, without seeing + a human being, and were beginning to be discouraged, when, about noon, + they discovered a horseman at a distance. He was coming directly toward + them; but on discovering them, suddenly reined up his steed, came to a + halt, and, after reconnoitring them for a time with great earnestness, + seemed about to make a cautious retreat. They eagerly made signs of peace, + and endeavored, with the utmost anxiety, to induce him to approach. He + remained for some time in doubt; but at length, having satisfied himself + that they were not enemies, came galloping up to them. He was a fine, + haughty-looking savage, fancifully decorated, and mounted on a + high-mettled steed, with gaudy trappings and equipments. It was evident + that he was a warrior of some consequence among his tribe. His whole + deportment had something in it of barbaric dignity; he felt, perhaps, his + temporary superiority in personal array, and in the spirit of his steed, + to the poor, ragged, travel-worn trappers and their half-starved horses. + Approaching them with an air of protection, he gave them his hand, and, in + the Nez Perce language, invited them to his camp, which was only a few + miles distant; where he had plenty to eat, and plenty of horses, and would + cheerfully share his good things with them. + </p> + <p> + His hospitable invitation was joyfully accepted: he lingered but a moment, + to give directions by which they might find his camp, and then, wheeling + round, and giving the reins to his mettlesome steed, was soon out of + sight. The travellers followed, with gladdened hearts, but at a snail’s + pace; for their poor horses could scarcely drag one leg after the other. + Captain Bonneville, however, experienced a sudden and singular change of + feeling. Hitherto, the necessity of conducting his party, and of providing + against every emergency, had kept his mind upon the stretch, and his whole + system braced and excited. In no one instance had he flagged in spirit, or + felt disposed to succumb. Now, however, that all danger was over, and the + march of a few miles would bring them to repose and abundance, his + energies suddenly deserted him; and every faculty, mental and physical, + was totally relaxed. He had not proceeded two miles from the point where + he had had the interview with the Nez Perce chief, when he threw himself + upon the earth, without the power or will to move a muscle, or exert a + thought, and sank almost instantly into a profound and dreamless sleep. + His companions again came to a halt, and encamped beside him, and there + they passed the night. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, Captain Bonneville awakened from his long and heavy + sleep, much refreshed; and they all resumed their creeping progress. They + had not long been on the march, when eight or ten of the Nez Perce tribe + came galloping to meet them, leading fresh horses to bear them to their + camp. Thus gallantly mounted, they felt new life infused into their + languid frames, and dashing forward, were soon at the lodges of the Nez + Perces. Here they found about twelve families living together, under the + patriarchal sway of an ancient and venerable chief. He received them with + the hospitality of the golden age, and with something of the same kind of + fare; for, while he opened his arms to make them welcome, the only repast + he set before them consisted of roots. They could have wished for + something more hearty and substantial; but, for want of better, made a + voracious meal on these humble viands. The repast being over, the best + pipe was lighted and sent round: and this was a most welcome luxury, + having lost their smoking apparatus twelve days before, among the + mountains. + </p> + <p> + While they were thus enjoying themselves, their poor horses were led to + the best pastures in the neighborhood, where they were turned loose to + revel on the fresh sprouting grass; so that they had better fare than + their masters. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville soon felt himself quite at home among these quiet, + inoffensive people. His long residence among their cousins, the Upper Nez + Perces, had made him conversant with their language, modes of expression, + and all their habitudes. He soon found, too, that he was well known among + them, by report, at least, from the constant interchange of visits and + messages between the two branches of the tribe. They at first addressed + him by his name; giving him his title of captain, with a French accent: + but they soon gave him a title of their own; which, as usual with Indian + titles, had a peculiar signification. In the case of the captain, it had + somewhat of a whimsical origin. + </p> + <p> + As he sat chatting and smoking in the midst of them, he would occasionally + take off his cap. Whenever he did so, there was a sensation in the + surrounding circle. The Indians would half rise from their recumbent + posture, and gaze upon his uncovered head, with their usual exclamation of + astonishment. The worthy captain was completely bald; a phenomenon very + surprising in their eyes. They were at a loss to know whether he had been + scalped in battle, or enjoyed a natural immunity from that belligerent + infliction. In a little while, he became known among them by an Indian + name, signifying “the bald chief.” “A sobriquet,” observes the captain, + “for which I can find no parallel in history since the days of ‘Charles + the Bald.’” + </p> + <p> + Although the travellers had banqueted on roots, and been regaled with + tobacco smoke, yet their stomachs craved more generous fare. In + approaching the lodges of the Nez Perces, they had indulged in fond + anticipations of venison and dried salmon; and dreams of the kind still + haunted their imaginations, and could not be conjured down. The keen + appetites of mountain trappers, quickened by a fortnight’s fasting, at + length got the better of all scruples of pride, and they fairly begged + some fish or flesh from the hospitable savages. The latter, however, were + slow to break in upon their winter store, which was very limited; but were + ready to furnish roots in abundance, which they pronounced excellent food. + At length, Captain Bonneville thought of a means of attaining the + much-coveted gratification. + </p> + <p> + He had about him, he says, a trusty plaid; an old and valued travelling + companion and comforter; upon which the rains had descended, and the snows + and winds beaten, without further effect than somewhat to tarnish its + primitive lustre. This coat of many colors had excited the admiration, and + inflamed the covetousness of both warriors and squaws, to an extravagant + degree. An idea now occurred to Captain Bonneville, to convert this + rainbow garment into the savory viands so much desired. There was a + momentary struggle in his mind, between old associations and projected + indulgence; and his decision in favor of the latter was made, he says, + with a greater promptness, perhaps, than true taste and sentiment might + have required. In a few moments, his plaid cloak was cut into numerous + strips. “Of these,” continues he, “with the newly developed talent of a + man-milliner, I speedily constructed turbans a la Turque, and fanciful + head-gears of divers conformations. These, judiciously distributed among + such of the womenkind as seemed of most consequence and interest in the + eyes of the patres conscripti, brought us, in a little while, abundance of + dried salmon and deers’ hearts; on which we made a sumptuous supper. + Another, and a more satisfactory smoke, succeeded this repast, and sweet + slumbers answering the peaceful invocation of our pipes, wrapped us in + that delicious rest, which is only won by toil and travail.” As to Captain + Bonneville, he slept in the lodge of the venerable patriarch, who had + evidently conceived a most disinterested affection for him; as was shown + on the following morning. The travellers, invigorated by a good supper, + and “fresh from the bath of repose,” were about to resume their journey, + when this affectionate old chief took the captain aside, to let him know + how much he loved him. As a proof of his regard, he had determined to give + him a fine horse, which would go further than words, and put his good will + beyond all question. So saying, he made a signal, and forthwith a + beautiful young horse, of a brown color, was led, prancing and snorting, + to the place. Captain Bonneville was suitably affected by this mark of + friendship; but his experience in what is proverbially called “Indian + giving,” made him aware that a parting pledge was necessary on his own + part, to prove that his friendship was reciprocated. He accordingly placed + a handsome rifle in the hands of the venerable chief, whose benevolent + heart was evidently touched and gratified by this outward and visible sign + of amity. + </p> + <p> + Having now, as he thought, balanced this little account of friendship, the + captain was about to shift his saddle to this noble gift-horse when the + affectionate patriarch plucked him by the sleeve, and introduced to him a + whimpering, whining, leathern-skinned old squaw, that might have passed + for an Egyptian mummy, without drying. “This,” said he, “is my wife; she + is a good wife—I love her very much.—She loves the horse—she + loves him a great deal—she will cry very much at losing him.—I + do not know how I shall comfort her—and that makes my heart very + sore.” + </p> + <p> + What could the worthy captain do, to console the tender-hearted old squaw, + and, peradventure, to save the venerable patriarch from a curtain lecture? + He bethought himself of a pair of ear-bobs: it was true, the patriarch’s + better-half was of an age and appearance that seemed to put personal + vanity out of the question, but when is personal vanity extinct? The + moment he produced the glittering earbobs, the whimpering and whining of + the sempiternal beldame was at an end. She eagerly placed the precious + baubles in her ears, and, though as ugly as the Witch of Endor, went off + with a sideling gait and coquettish air, as though she had been a perfect + Semiramis. + </p> + <p> + The captain had now saddled his newly acquired steed, and his foot was in + the stirrup, when the affectionate patriarch again stepped forward, and + presented to him a young Pierced-nose, who had a peculiarly sulky look. + “This,” said the venerable chief, “is my son: he is very good; a great + horseman—he always took care of this very fine horse—he + brought him up from a colt, and made him what he is.—He is very fond + of this fine horse—he loves him like a brother—his heart will + be very heavy when this fine horse leaves the camp.” + </p> + <p> + What could the captain do, to reward the youthful hope of this venerable + pair, and comfort him for the loss of his foster-brother, the horse? He + bethought him of a hatchet, which might be spared from his slender stores. + No sooner did he place the implement into the hands of the young hopeful, + than his countenance brightened up, and he went off rejoicing in his + hatchet, to the full as much as did his respectable mother in her + ear-bobs. + </p> + <p> + The captain was now in the saddle, and about to start, when the + affectionate old patriarch stepped forward, for the third time, and, while + he laid one hand gently on the mane of the horse, held up the rifle in the + other. “This rifle,” said he, “shall be my great medicine. I will hug it + to my heart—I will always love it, for the sake of my good friend, + the bald-headed chief.—But a rifle, by itself, is dumb—I + cannot make it speak. If I had a little powder and ball, I would take it + out with me, and would now and then shoot a deer; and when I brought the + meat home to my hungry family, I would say—This was killed by the + rifle of my friend, the bald-headed chief, to whom I gave that very fine + horse.” + </p> + <p> + There was no resisting this appeal; the captain, forthwith, furnished the + coveted supply of powder and ball; but at the same time, put spurs to his + very fine gift-horse, and the first trial of his speed was to get out of + all further manifestation of friendship, on the part of the affectionate + old patriarch and his insinuating family. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0033" id="link2H_4_0033"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 32. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Nez-Perce camp—A chief with a hard name—The Big Hearts of + the East—Hospitable treatment—The Indian guides— + Mysterious councils—The loquacious chief—Indian tomb— + Grand Indian reception—An Indian feast—Town-criers— + Honesty of the Nez-Perces—The captain’s attempt at + healing. +</pre> + <p> + FOLLOWING THE COURSE of the Immahah, Captain Bonneville and his three + companions soon reached the vicinity of Snake River. Their route now lay + over a succession of steep and isolated hills, with profound valleys. On + the second day, after taking leave of the affectionate old patriarch, as + they were descending into one of those deep and abrupt intervals, they + descried a smoke, and shortly afterward came in sight of a small + encampment of Nez Perces. + </p> + <p> + The Indians, when they ascertained that it was a party of white men + approaching, greeted them with a salute of firearms, and invited them to + encamp. This band was likewise under the sway of a venerable chief named + Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut; a name which we shall be careful not to inflict oftener + than is necessary upon the reader This ancient and hard-named chieftain + welcomed Captain Bonneville to his camp with the same hospitality and + loving kindness that he had experienced from his predecessor. He told the + captain he had often heard of the Americans and their generous deeds, and + that his buffalo brethren (the Upper Nez Perces) had always spoken of them + as the Big-hearted whites of the East, the very good friends of the Nez + Perces. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville felt somewhat uneasy under the responsibility of this + magnanimous but costly appellation; and began to fear he might be involved + in a second interchange of pledges of friendship. He hastened, therefore, + to let the old chief know his poverty-stricken state, and how little there + was to be expected from him. + </p> + <p> + He informed him that he and his comrades had long resided among the Upper + Nez Perces, and loved them so much, that they had thrown their arms around + them, and now held them close to their hearts. That he had received such + good accounts from the Upper Nez Perces of their cousins, the Lower Nez + Perces, that he had become desirous of knowing them as friends and + brothers. That he and his companions had accordingly loaded a mule with + presents and set off for the country of the Lower Nez Perces; but, + unfortunately, had been entrapped for many days among the snowy mountains; + and that the mule with all the presents had fallen into Snake River, and + been swept away by the rapid current. That instead, therefore, of arriving + among their friends, the Nez Perces, with light hearts and full hands, + they came naked, hungry, and broken down; and instead of making them + presents, must depend upon them even for food. “But,” concluded he, “we + are going to the white men’s fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and will soon + return; and then we will meet our Nez Perce friends like the true Big + Hearts of the East.” + </p> + <p> + Whether the hint thrown out in the latter part of the speech had any + effect, or whether the old chief acted from the hospitable feelings which, + according to the captain, are really inherent in the Nez Perce tribe, he + certainly showed no disposition to relax his friendship on learning the + destitute circumstances of his guests. On the contrary, he urged the + captain to remain with them until the following day, when he would + accompany him on his journey, and make him acquainted with all his people. + In the meantime, he would have a colt killed, and cut up for travelling + provisions. This, he carefully explained, was intended not as an article + of traffic, but as a gift; for he saw that his guests were hungry and in + need of food. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville gladly assented to this hospitable arrangement. The + carcass of the colt was forthcoming in due season, but the captain + insisted that one half of it should be set apart for the use of the + chieftain’s family. + </p> + <p> + At an early hour of the following morning, the little party resumed their + journey, accompanied by the old chief and an Indian guide. Their route was + over a rugged and broken country; where the hills were slippery with ice + and snow. Their horses, too, were so weak and jaded, that they could + scarcely climb the steep ascents, or maintain their foothold on the frozen + declivities. Throughout the whole of the journey, the old chief and the + guide were unremitting in their good offices, and continually on the alert + to select the best roads, and assist them through all difficulties. + Indeed, the captain and his comrades had to be dependent on their Indian + friends for almost every thing, for they had lost their tobacco and pipes, + those great comforts of the trapper, and had but a few charges of powder + left, which it was necessary to husband for the purpose of lighting their + fires. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the day the old chief had several private consultations + with the guide, and showed evident signs of being occupied with some + mysterious matter of mighty import. What it was, Captain Bonneville could + not fathom, nor did he make much effort to do so. From some casual + sentences that he overheard, he perceived that it was something from which + the old man promised himself much satisfaction, and to which he attached a + little vainglory but which he wished to keep a secret; so he suffered him + to spin out his petty plans unmolested. + </p> + <p> + In the evening when they encamped, the old chief and his privy counsellor, + the guide, had another mysterious colloquy, after which the guide mounted + his horse and departed on some secret mission, while the chief resumed his + seat at the fire, and sat humming to himself in a pleasing but mystic + reverie. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, the travellers descended into the valley of the + Way-lee-way, a considerable tributary of Snake River. Here they met the + guide returning from his secret errand. Another private conference was + held between him and the old managing chief, who now seemed more inflated + than ever with mystery and self-importance. Numerous fresh trails, and + various other signs, persuaded Captain Bonneville that there must be a + considerable village of Nez Perces in the neighborhood; but as his worthy + companion, the old chief, said nothing on the subject, and as it appeared + to be in some way connected with his secret operations, he asked no + questions, but patiently awaited the development of his mystery. + </p> + <p> + As they journeyed on, they came to where two or three Indians were bathing + in a small stream. The good old chief immediately came to a halt, and had + a long conversation with them, in the course of which he repeated to them + the whole history which Captain Bonneville had related to him. In fact, he + seems to have been a very sociable, communicative old man; by no means + afflicted with that taciturnity generally charged upon the Indians. On the + contrary, he was fond of long talks and long smokings, and evidently was + proud of his new friend, the bald-headed chief, and took a pleasure in + sounding his praises, and setting forth the power and glory of the Big + Hearts of the East. + </p> + <p> + Having disburdened himself of everything he had to relate to his bathing + friends, he left them to their aquatic disports, and proceeded onward with + the captain and his companions. As they approached the Way-lee-way, + however, the communicative old chief met with another and a very different + occasion to exert his colloquial powers. On the banks of the river stood + an isolated mound covered with grass. He pointed to it with some emotion. + “The big heart and the strong arm,” said he, “lie buried beneath that + sod.” + </p> + <p> + It was, in fact, the grave of one of his friends; a chosen warrior of the + tribe; who had been slain on this spot when in pursuit of a war party of + Shoshokoes, who had stolen the horses of the village. The enemy bore off + his scalp as a trophy; but his friends found his body in this lonely + place, and committed it to the earth with ceremonials characteristic of + their pious and reverential feelings. They gathered round the grave and + mourned; the warriors were silent in their grief; but the women and + children bewailed their loss with loud lamentations. “For three days,” + said the old man, “we performed the solemn dances for the dead, and prayed + the Great Spirit that our brother might be happy in the land of brave + warriors and hunters. Then we killed at his grave fifteen of our best and + strongest horses, to serve him when he should arrive at the happy hunting + grounds; and having done all this, we returned sorrowfully to our homes.” + </p> + <p> + While the chief was still talking, an Indian scout came galloping up, and, + presenting him with a powder-horn, wheeled round, and was speedily out of + sight. The eyes of the old chief now brightened; and all his + self-importance returned. His petty mystery was about to explode. Turning + to Captain Bonneville, he pointed to a hill hard by, and informed him, + that behind it was a village governed by a little chief, whom he had + notified of the approach of the bald-headed chief, and a party of the Big + Hearts of the East, and that he was prepared to receive them in becoming + style. As, among other ceremonials, he intended to salute them with a + discharge of firearms, he had sent the horn of gunpowder that they might + return the salute in a manner correspondent to his dignity. + </p> + <p> + They now proceeded on until they doubled the point of the hill, when the + whole population of the village broke upon their view, drawn out in the + most imposing style, and arrayed in all their finery. The effect of the + whole was wild and fantastic, yet singularly striking. In the front rank + were the chiefs and principal warriors, glaringly painted and decorated; + behind them were arranged the rest of the people, men, women, and + children. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville and his party advanced slowly, exchanging salutes of + firearms. When arrived within a respectful distance, they dismounted. The + chiefs then came forward successively, according to their respective + characters and consequence, to offer the hand of good fellowship; each + filing off when he had shaken hands, to make way for his successor. Those + in the next rank followed in the same order, and so on, until all had + given the pledge of friendship. During all this time, the chief, according + to custom, took his stand beside the guests. If any of his people advanced + whom he judged unworthy of the friendship or confidence of the white men, + he motioned them off by a wave of the hand, and they would submissively + walk away. When Captain Bonneville turned upon him an inquiring look, he + would observe, “he was a bad man,” or something quite as concise, and + there was an end of the matter. + </p> + <p> + Mats, poles, and other materials were now brought, and a comfortable lodge + was soon erected for the strangers, where they were kept constantly + supplied with wood and water, and other necessaries; and all their effects + were placed in safe keeping. Their horses, too, were unsaddled, and turned + loose to graze, and a guard set to keep watch upon them. + </p> + <p> + All this being adjusted, they were conducted to the main building or + council house of the village, where an ample repast, or rather banquet, + was spread, which seemed to realize all the gastronomical dreams that had + tantalized them during their long starvation; for here they beheld not + merely fish and roots in abundance, but the flesh of deer and elk, and the + choicest pieces of buffalo meat. It is needless to say how vigorously they + acquitted themselves on this occasion, and how unnecessary it was for + their hosts to practice the usual cramming principle of Indian + hospitality. + </p> + <p> + When the repast was over, a long talk ensued. The chief showed the same + curiosity evinced by his tribe generally, to obtain information concerning + the United States, of which they knew little but what they derived through + their cousins, the Upper Nez Perces; as their traffic is almost + exclusively with the British traders of the Hudson’s Bay Company. Captain + Bonneville did his best to set forth the merits of his nation, and the + importance of their friendship to the red men, in which he was ably + seconded by his worthy friend, the old chief with the hard name, who did + all that he could to glorify the Big Hearts of the East. + </p> + <p> + The chief, and all present, listened with profound attention, and + evidently with great interest; nor were the important facts thus set + forth, confined to the audience in the lodge; for sentence after sentence + was loudly repeated by a crier for the benefit of the whole village. + </p> + <p> + This custom of promulgating everything by criers, is not confined to the + Nez Perces, but prevails among many other tribes. It has its advantage + where there are no gazettes to publish the news of the day, or to report + the proceedings of important meetings. And in fact, reports of this kind, + viva voce, made in the hearing of all parties, and liable to be + contradicted or corrected on the spot, are more likely to convey accurate + information to the public mind than those circulated through the press. + The office of crier is generally filled by some old man, who is good for + little else. A village has generally several of these walking newspapers, + as they are termed by the whites, who go about proclaiming the news of the + day, giving notice of public councils, expeditions, dances, feasts, and + other ceremonials, and advertising anything lost. While Captain Bonneville + remained among the Nez Perces, if a glove, handkerchief, or anything of + similar value, was lost or mislaid, it was carried by the finder to the + lodge of the chief, and proclamation was made by one of their criers, for + the owner to come and claim his property. + </p> + <p> + How difficult it is to get at the true character of these wandering tribes + of the wilderness! In a recent work, we have had to speak of this tribe of + Indians from the experience of other traders who had casually been among + them, and who represented them as selfish, inhospitable, exorbitant in + their dealings, and much addicted to thieving; Captain Bonneville, on the + contrary, who resided much among them, and had repeated opportunities of + ascertaining their real character, invariably speaks of them as kind and + hospitable, scrupulously honest, and remarkable, above all other Indians + that he had met with, for a strong feeling of religion. In fact, so + enthusiastic is he in their praise, that he pronounces them, all ignorant + and barbarous as they are by their condition, one of the purest hearted + people on the face of the earth. + </p> + <p> + Some cures which Captain Bonneville had effected in simple cases, among + the Upper Nez Perces, had reached the ears of their cousins here, and + gained for him the reputation of a great medicine man. He had not been + long in the village, therefore, before his lodge began to be the resort of + the sick and the infirm. The captain felt the value of the reputation thus + accidentally and cheaply acquired, and endeavored to sustain it. As he had + arrived at that age when every man is, experimentally, something of a + physician, he was enabled to turn to advantage the little knowledge in the + healing art which he had casually picked up; and was sufficiently + successful in two or three cases, to convince the simple Indians that + report had not exaggerated his medical talents. The only patient that + effectually baffled his skill, or rather discouraged any attempt at + relief, was an antiquated squaw with a churchyard cough, and one leg in + the grave; it being shrunk and rendered useless by a rheumatic affection. + This was a case beyond his mark; however, he comforted the old woman with + a promise that he would endeavor to procure something to relieve her, at + the fort on the Wallah-Wallah, and would bring it on his return; with + which assurance her husband was so well satisfied, that he presented the + captain with a colt, to be killed as provisions for the journey: a medical + fee which was thankfully accepted. + </p> + <p> + While among these Indians, Captain Bonneville unexpectedly found an owner + for the horse which he had purchased from a Root Digger at the Big Wyer. + The Indian satisfactorily proved that the horse had been stolen from him + some time previous, by some unknown thief. “However,” said the considerate + savage, “you got him in fair trade—you are more in want of horses + than I am: keep him; he is yours—he is a good horse; use him well.” + </p> + <p> + Thus, in the continued experience of acts of kindness and generosity, + which his destitute condition did not allow him to reciprocate, Captain + Bonneville passed some short time among these good people, more and more + impressed with the general excellence of their character. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0034" id="link2H_4_0034"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 33. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Scenery of the Way-lee-way—A substitute for tobacco— + Sublime scenery of—Snake River—The garrulous old chief and + his cousin—A Nez-Perce meeting—A stolen skin—The + scapegoat dog—Mysterious conferences—The little chief—His + hospitality—The captain’s account of the United States—His + healing skill +</pre> + <p> + IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the same Nez + Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was important in choosing the + routes and resting places. He also continued to be accompanied by the + worthy old chief with the hard name, who seemed bent upon doing the honors + of the country, and introducing him to every branch of his tribe. The + Way-lee-way, down the banks of which Captain Bonneville and his companions + were now travelling, is a considerable stream winding through a succession + of bold and beautiful scenes. Sometimes the landscape towered into bold + and mountainous heights that partook of sublimity; at other times, it + stretched along the water side in fresh smiling meadows, and graceful + undulating valleys. + </p> + <p> + Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the Nez + Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and who, + generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their adventures; a + curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly satisfied by the replies of + the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who kindly took upon himself to be spokesman + of the party. + </p> + <p> + The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this + excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted all his + stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with which to regale + his white companions. In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his pipe + into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus + manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long + colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud. + </p> + <p> + If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its + mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more + reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At + times, the river was overhung by dark and stupendous rocks, rising like + gigantic walls and battlements; these would be rent by wide and yawning + chasms, that seemed to speak of past convulsions of nature. Sometimes the + river was of a glassy smoothness and placidity; at other times it roared + along in impetuous rapids and foaming cascades. Here, the rocks were piled + in the most fantastic crags and precipices; and in another place, they + were succeeded by delightful valleys carpeted with green-award. The whole + of this wild and varied scenery was dominated by immense mountains rearing + their distant peaks into the clouds. “The grandeur and originality of the + views, presented on every side,” says Captain Bonneville, “beggar both the + pencil and the pen. Nothing we had ever gazed upon in any other region + could for a moment compare in wild majesty and impressive sternness, with + the series of scenes which here at every turn astonished our senses, and + filled us with awe and delight.” + </p> + <p> + Indeed, from all that we can gather from the journal before us, and the + accounts of other travellers, who passed through these regions in the + memorable enterprise of Astoria, we are inclined to think that Snake River + must be one of the most remarkable for varied and striking scenery of all + the rivers of this continent. From its head waters in the Rocky Mountains, + to its junction with the Columbia, its windings are upward of six hundred + miles through every variety of landscape. Rising in a volcanic region, + amid extinguished craters, and mountains awful with the traces of ancient + fires, it makes its way through great plains of lava and sandy deserts, + penetrates vast sierras or mountainous chains, broken into romantic and + often frightful precipices, and crowned with eternal snows; and at other + times, careers through green and smiling meadows, and wide landscapes of + Italian grace and beauty. Wildness and sublimity, however, appear to be + its prevailing characteristics. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville and his companions had pursued their journey a + considerable distance down the course of Snake River, when the old chief + halted on the bank, and dismounting, recommended that they should turn + their horses loose to graze, while he summoned a cousin of his from a + group of lodges on the opposite side of the stream. His summons was + quickly answered. An Indian, of an active elastic form, leaped into a + light canoe of cotton-wood, and vigorously plying the paddle, soon shot + across the river. Bounding on shore, he advanced with a buoyant air and + frank demeanor, and gave his right hand to each of the party in turn. The + old chief, whose hard name we forbear to repeat, now presented Captain + Bonneville, in form, to his cousin, whose name, we regret to say, was no + less hard being nothing less than Hay-she-in-cow-cow. The latter evinced + the usual curiosity to know all about the strangers, whence they came + whither they were going, the object of their journey, and the adventures + they had experienced. All these, of course, were ample and eloquently set + forth by the communicative old chief. To all his grandiloquent account of + the bald-headed chief and his countrymen, the Big Hearts of the East, his + cousin listened with great attention, and replied in the customary style + of Indian welcome. He then desired the party to await his return, and, + springing into his canoe, darted across the river. In a little while he + returned, bringing a most welcome supply of tobacco, and a small stock of + provisions for the road, declaring his intention of accompanying the + party. Having no horse, he mounted behind one of the men, observing that + he should procure a steed for himself on the following day. + </p> + <p> + They all now jogged on very sociably and cheerily together. Not many miles + beyond, they met others of the tribe, among whom was one, whom Captain + Bonneville and his comrades had known during their residence among the + Upper Nez Perces, and who welcomed them with open arms. In this + neighborhood was the home of their guide, who took leave of them with a + profusion of good wishes for their safety and happiness. That night they + put up in the hut of a Nez Perce, where they were visited by several + warriors from the other side of the river, friends of the old chief and + his cousin, who came to have a talk and a smoke with the white men. The + heart of the good old chief was overflowing with good will at thus being + surrounded by his new and old friends, and he talked with more spirit and + vivacity than ever. The evening passed away in perfect harmony and + good-humor, and it was not until a late hour that the visitors took their + leave and recrossed the river. + </p> + <p> + After this constant picture of worth and virtue on the part of the Nez + Perce tribe, we grieve to have to record a circumstance calculated to + throw a temporary shade upon the name. In the course of the social and + harmonious evening just mentioned, one of the captain’s men, who happened + to be something of a virtuoso in his way, and fond of collecting + curiosities, produced a small skin, a great rarity in the eyes of men + conversant in peltries. It attracted much attention among the visitors + from beyond the river, who passed it from one to the other, examined it + with looks of lively admiration, and pronounced it a great medicine. + </p> + <p> + In the morning, when the captain and his party were about to set off, the + precious skin was missing. Search was made for it in the hut, but it was + nowhere to be found; and it was strongly suspected that it had been + purloined by some of the connoisseurs from the other side of the river. + </p> + <p> + The old chief and his cousin were indignant at the supposed delinquency of + their friends across the water, and called out for them to come over and + answer for their shameful conduct. The others answered to the call with + all the promptitude of perfect innocence, and spurned at the idea of their + being capable of such outrage upon any of the Big-hearted nation. All were + at a loss on whom to fix the crime of abstracting the invaluable skin, + when by chance the eyes of the worthies from beyond the water fell upon an + unhappy cur, belonging to the owner of the hut. He was a gallows-looking + dog, but not more so than most Indian dogs, who, take them in the mass, + are little better than a generation of vipers. Be that as it may, he was + instantly accused of having devoured the skin in question. A dog accused + is generally a dog condemned; and a dog condemned is generally a dog + executed. So was it in the present instance. The unfortunate cur was + arraigned; his thievish looks substantiated his guilt, and he was + condemned by his judges from across the river to be hanged. In vain the + Indians of the hut, with whom he was a great favorite, interceded in his + behalf. In vain Captain Bonneville and his comrades petitioned that his + life might be spared. His judges were inexorable. He was doubly guilty: + first, in having robbed their good friends, the Big Hearts of the East; + secondly, in having brought a doubt on the honor of the Nez Perce tribe. + He was, accordingly, swung aloft, and pelted with stones to make his death + more certain. The sentence of the judges being thoroughly executed, a post + mortem examination of the body of the dog was held, to establish his + delinquency beyond all doubt, and to leave the Nez Perces without a shadow + of suspicion. Great interest, of course, was manifested by all present, + during this operation. The body of the dog was opened, the intestines + rigorously scrutinized, but, to the horror of all concerned, not a + particle of the skin was to be found—the dog had been unjustly + executed! + </p> + <p> + A great clamor now ensued, but the most clamorous was the party from + across the river, whose jealousy of their good name now prompted them to + the most vociferous vindications of their innocence. It was with the + utmost difficulty that the captain and his comrades could calm their + lively sensibilities, by accounting for the disappearance of the skin in a + dozen different ways, until all idea of its having been stolen was + entirely out of the question. + </p> + <p> + The meeting now broke up. The warriors returned across the river, the + captain and his comrades proceeded on their journey; but the spirits of + the communicative old chief, Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, were for a time completely + dampened, and he evinced great mortification at what had just occurred. He + rode on in silence, except, that now and then he would give way to a burst + of indignation, and exclaim, with a shake of the head and a toss of the + hand toward the opposite shore—“bad men, very bad men across the + river”; to each of which brief exclamations, his worthy cousin, + Hay-she-in-cow-cow, would respond by a guttural sound of acquiescence, + equivalent to an amen. + </p> + <p> + After some time, the countenance of the-old chief again cleared up, and he + fell into repeated conferences, in an under tone, with his cousin, which + ended in the departure of the latter, who, applying the lash to his horse, + dashed forward and was soon out of sight. In fact, they were drawing near + to the village of another chief, likewise distinguished by an appellation + of some longitude, O-pushy-e-cut; but commonly known as the great chief. + The cousin had been sent ahead to give notice of their approach; a herald + appeared as before, bearing a powder-horn, to enable them to respond to + the intended salute. A scene ensued, on their approach to the village, + similar to that which had occurred at the village of the little chief. The + whole population appeared in the field, drawn up in lines, arrayed with + the customary regard to rank and dignity. Then came on the firing of + salutes, and the shaking of hands, in which last ceremonial every + individual, man, woman, and child, participated; for the Indians have an + idea that it is as indispensable an overture of friendship among the + whites as smoking of the pipe is among the red men. The travellers were + next ushered to the banquet, where all the choicest viands that the + village could furnish, were served up in rich profusion. They were + afterwards entertained by feats of agility and horseraces; indeed, their + visit to the village seemed the signal for complete festivity. In the + meantime, a skin lodge had been spread for their accommodation, their + horses and baggage were taken care of, and wood and water supplied in + abundance. At night, therefore, they retired to their quarters, to enjoy, + as they supposed, the repose of which they stood in need. No such thing, + however, was in store for them. A crowd of visitors awaited their + appearance, all eager for a smoke and a talk. The pipe was immediately + lighted, and constantly replenished and kept alive until the night was far + advanced. As usual, the utmost eagerness was evinced by the guests to + learn everything within the scope of their comprehension respecting the + Americans, for whom they professed the most fraternal regard. The captain, + in his replies, made use of familiar illustrations, calculated to strike + their minds, and impress them with such an idea of the might of his + nation, as would induce them to treat with kindness and respect all + stragglers that might fall in their path. To their inquiries as to the + numbers of the people of the United States, he assured them that they were + as countless as the blades of grass in the prairies, and that, great as + Snake River was, if they were all encamped upon its banks, they would + drink it dry in a single day. To these and similar statistics, they + listened with profound attention, and apparently, implicit belief. It was, + indeed, a striking scene: the captain, with his hunter’s dress and bald + head in the midst, holding forth, and his wild auditors seated around like + so many statues, the fire lighting up their painted faces and muscular + figures, all fixed and motionless, excepting when the pipe was passed, a + question propounded, or a startling fact in statistics received with a + movement of surprise and a half-suppressed ejaculation of wonder and + delight. + </p> + <p> + The fame of the captain as a healer of diseases, had accompanied him to + this village, and the great chief, O-push-y-e-cut, now entreated him to + exert his skill on his daughter, who had been for three days racked with + pains, for which the Pierced-nose doctors could devise no alleviation. The + captain found her extended on a pallet of mats in excruciating pain. Her + father manifested the strongest paternal affection for her, and assured + the captain that if he would but cure her, he would place the Americans + near his heart. The worthy captain needed no such inducement. His kind + heart was already touched by the sufferings of the poor girl, and his + sympathies quickened by her appearance; for she was but about sixteen + years of age, and uncommonly beautiful in form and feature. The only + difficulty with the captain was, that he knew nothing of her malady, and + that his medical science was of a most haphazard kind. After considering + and cogitating for some time, as a man is apt to do when in a maze of + vague ideas, he made a desperate dash at a remedy. By his directions, the + girl was placed in a sort of rude vapor bath, much used by the Nez Perces, + where she was kept until near fainting. He then gave her a dose of + gunpowder dissolved in cold water, and ordered her to be wrapped in + buffalo robes and put to sleep under a load of furs and blankets. The + remedy succeeded: the next morning she was free from pain, though + extremely languid; whereupon, the captain prescribed for her a bowl of + colt’s head broth, and that she should be kept for a time on simple diet. + </p> + <p> + The great chief was unbounded in his expressions of gratitude for the + recovery of his daughter. He would fain have detained the captain a long + time as his guest, but the time for departure had arrived. When the + captain’s horse was brought for him to mount, the chief declared that the + steed was not worthy of him, and sent for one of his best horses, which he + presented in its stead; declaring that it made his heart glad to see his + friend so well mounted. He then appointed a young Nez Perce to accompany + his guest to the next village, and “to carry his talk” concerning them; + and the two parties separated with mutual expressions of good will. + </p> + <p> + The vapor bath of which we have made mention is in frequent use among the + Nez Perce tribe, chiefly for cleanliness. Their sweating houses, as they + call them, are small and close lodges, and the vapor is produced by water + poured slowly upon red-hot stones. + </p> + <p> + On passing the limits of O-push-y-e-cut’s domains, the travellers left the + elevated table-lands, and all the wild and romantic scenery which has just + been described. They now traversed a gently undulating country, of such + fertility that it excited the rapturous admiration of two of the captain’s + followers, a Kentuckian and a native of Ohio. They declared that it + surpassed any land that they had ever seen, and often exclaimed what a + delight it would be just to run a plough through such a rich and teeming + soil, and see it open its bountiful promise before the share. + </p> + <p> + Another halt and sojourn of a night was made at the village of a chief + named He-mim-el-pilp, where similar ceremonies were observed and + hospitality experienced, as at the preceding villages. They now pursued a + west-southwest course through a beautiful and fertile region, better + wooded than most of the tracts through which they had passed. In their + progress, they met with several bands of Nez Perces, by whom they were + invariably treated with the utmost kindness. Within seven days after + leaving the domain of He-mim-el-pilp, they struck the Columbia River at + Fort Wallah-Wallah, where they arrived on the 4th of March, 1834. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0035" id="link2H_4_0035"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 34. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Fort Wallah-Wallah—Its commander—Indians in its + neighborhood—Exertions of Mr. Pambrune for their + improvement—Religion—Code of laws—Range of the Lower Nez + Perces—Camash, and other roots—Nez—Perce horses— + Preparations for departure—Refusal of supplies—Departure— + A laggard and glutton +</pre> + <p> + FORT WALLAH-WALLAH is a trading post of the Hudson’s Bay Company, situated + just above the mouth of the river by the same name, and on the left bank + of the Columbia. It is built of drift-wood, and calculated merely for + defence against any attack of the natives. At the time of Captain + Bonneville’s arrival, the whole garrison mustered but six or eight men; + and the post was under the superintendence of Mr. Pambrune, an agent of + the Hudson’s Bay Company. + </p> + <p> + The great post and fort of the company, forming the emporium of its trade + on the Pacific, is Fort Vancouver; situated on the right bank of the + Columbia, about sixty miles from the sea, and just above the mouth of the + Wallamut. To this point, the company removed its establishment from + Astoria, in 1821, after its coalition with the Northwest Company. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville and his comrades experienced a polite reception from + Mr. Pambrune, the superintendent: for, however hostile the members of the + British Company may be to the enterprises of American traders, they have + always manifested great courtesy and hospitality to the traders + themselves. + </p> + <p> + Fort Wallah-Wallah is surrounded by the tribe of the same name, as well as + by the Skynses and the Nez Perces; who bring to it the furs and peltries + collected in their hunting expeditions. The Wallah-Wallahs are a + degenerate, worn-out tribe. The Nez Perces are the most numerous and + tractable of the three tribes just mentioned. Mr. Pambrune informed + Captain Bonneville that he had been at some pains to introduce the + Christian religion, in the Roman Catholic form, among them, where it had + evidently taken root; but had become altered and modified, to suit their + peculiar habits of thought, and motives of action; retaining, however, the + principal points of faith, and its entire precepts of morality. The same + gentleman had given them a code of laws, to which they conformed with + scrupulous fidelity. Polygamy, which once prevailed among them to a great + extent, was now rarely indulged. All the crimes denounced by the Christian + faith met with severe punishment among them. Even theft, so venial a crime + among the Indians, had recently been punished with hanging, by sentence of + a chief. + </p> + <p> + There certainly appears to be a peculiar susceptibility of moral and + religious improvement among this tribe, and they would seem to be one of + the very, very few that have benefited in morals and manners by an + intercourse with white men. The parties which visited them about twenty + years previously, in the expedition fitted out by Mr. Astor, complained of + their selfishness, their extortion, and their thievish propensities. The + very reverse of those qualities prevailed among them during the prolonged + sojourns of Captain Bonneville. + </p> + <p> + The Lower Nez Perces range upon the Way-lee-way, Immahah, Yenghies, and + other of the streams west of the mountains. They hunt the beaver, elk, + deer, white bear, and mountain sheep. Besides the flesh of these animals, + they use a number of roots for food; some of which would be well worth + transplanting and cultivating in the Atlantic States. Among these is the + camash, a sweet root, about the form and size of an onion, and said to be + really delicious. The cowish, also, or biscuit root, about the size of a + walnut, which they reduce to a very palatable flour; together with the + jackap, aisish, quako, and others; which they cook by steaming them in the + ground. + </p> + <p> + In August and September, these Indians keep along the rivers, where they + catch and dry great quantities of salmon; which, while they last, are + their principal food. In the winter, they congregate in villages formed of + comfortable huts, or lodges, covered with mats. They are generally clad in + deer skins, or woollens, and extremely well armed. Above all, they are + celebrated for owning great numbers of horses; which they mark, and then + suffer to range in droves in their most fertile plains. These horses are + principally of the pony breed; but remarkably stout and long-winded. They + are brought in great numbers to the establishments of the Hudson’s Bay + Company, and sold for a mere trifle. + </p> + <p> + Such is the account given by Captain Bonneville of the Nez Perces; who, if + not viewed by him with too partial an eye, are certainly among the + gentlest, and least barbarous people of these remote wildernesses. They + invariably signified to him their earnest wish that an American post might + be established among them; and repeatedly declared that they would trade + with Americans, in preference to any other people. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville had intended to remain some time in this neighborhood, + to form an acquaintance with the natives, and to collect information, and + establish connections that might be advantageous in the way of trade. The + delays, however, which he had experienced on his journey, obliged him to + shorten his sojourn, and to set off as soon as possible, so as to reach + the rendezvous at the Portneuf at the appointed time. He had seen enough + to convince him that an American trade might be carried on with advantage + in this quarter; and he determined soon to return with a stronger party, + more completely fitted for the purpose. + </p> + <p> + As he stood in need of some supplies for his journey, he applied to + purchase them of Mr. Pambrune; but soon found the difference between being + treated as a guest, or as a rival trader. The worthy superintendent, who + had extended to him all the genial rites of hospitality, now suddenly + assumed a withered-up aspect and demeanor, and observed that, however he + might feel disposed to serve him, personally, he felt bound by his duty to + the Hudson’s Bay Company, to do nothing which should facilitate or + encourage the visits of other traders among the Indians in that part of + the country. He endeavored to dissuade Captain Bonneville from returning + through the Blue Mountains; assuring him it would be extremely difficult + and dangerous, if not impracticable, at this season of the year; and + advised him to accompany Mr. Payette, a leader of the Hudson’s Bay + Company, who was about to depart with a number of men, by a more + circuitous, but safe route, to carry supplies to the company’s agent, + resident among the Upper Nez Perces. Captain Bonneville, however, piqued + at his having refused to furnish him with supplies, and doubting the + sincerity of his advice, determined to return by the more direct route + through the mountains; though varying his course, in some respects, from + that by which he had come, in consequence of information gathered among + the neighboring Indians. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, on the 6th of March, he and his three companions, accompanied + by their Nez Perce guides, set out on their return. In the early part of + their course, they touched again at several of the Nez Perce villages, + where they had experienced such kind treatment on their way down. They + were always welcomed with cordiality; and everything was done to cheer + them on their journey. + </p> + <p> + On leaving the Way-lee-way village, they were joined by a Nez Perce, whose + society was welcomed on account of the general gratitude and good will + they felt for his tribe. He soon proved a heavy clog upon the little + party, being doltish and taciturn, lazy in the extreme, and a huge feeder. + His only proof of intellect was in shrewdly avoiding all labor, and + availing himself of the toil of others. When on the march, he always + lagged behind the rest, leaving to them the task of breaking a way through + all difficulties and impediments, and leisurely and lazily jogging along + the track, which they had beaten through the snow. At the evening + encampment, when others were busy gathering fuel, providing for the + horses, and cooking the evening repast, this worthy Sancho of the + wilderness would take his seat quietly and cosily by the fire, puffing + away at his pipe, and eyeing in silence, but with wistful intensity of + gaze, the savory morsels roasting for supper. + </p> + <p> + When meal-time arrived, however, then came his season of activity. He no + longer hung back, and waited for others to take the lead, but + distinguished himself by a brilliancy of onset, and a sustained vigor and + duration of attack, that completely shamed the efforts of his competitors—albeit, + experienced trenchermen of no mean prowess. Never had they witnessed such + power of mastication, and such marvellous capacity of stomach, as in this + native and uncultivated gastronome. Having, by repeated and prolonged + assaults, at length completely gorged himself, he would wrap himself up + and lie with the torpor of an anaconda; slowly digesting his way on to the + next repast. + </p> + <p> + The gormandizing powers of this worthy were, at first, matters of surprise + and merriment to the travellers; but they soon became too serious for a + joke, threatening devastation to the fleshpots; and he was regarded + askance, at his meals, as a regular kill-crop, destined to waste the + substance of the party. Nothing but a sense of the obligations they were + under to his nation induced them to bear with such a guest; but he + proceeded, speedily, to relieve them from the weight of these obligations, + by eating a receipt in full. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0036" id="link2H_4_0036"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 35. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The uninvited guest—Free and easy manners—Salutary jokes— + A prodigal son—Exit of the glutton—A sudden change in + fortune—Danger of a visit to poor relations—Plucking of a + prosperous man—A vagabond toilet—A substitute for the very + fine horse—Hard travelling—The uninvited guest and the + patriarchal colt—A beggar on horseback—A catastrophe—Exit + of the merry vagabond +</pre> + <p> + As CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE and his men were encamped one evening among the + hills near Snake River, seated before their fire, enjoying a hearty + supper, they were suddenly surprised by the visit of an uninvited guest. + He was a ragged, half-naked Indian hunter, armed with bow and arrows, and + had the carcass of a fine buck thrown across his shoulder. Advancing with + an alert step, and free and easy air, he threw the buck on the ground, + and, without waiting for an invitation, seated himself at their mess, + helped himself without ceremony, and chatted to the right and left in the + liveliest and most unembarrassed manner. No adroit and veteran dinner + hunter of a metropolis could have acquitted himself more knowingly. The + travellers were at first completely taken by surprise, and could not but + admire the facility with which this ragged cosmopolite made himself at + home among them. While they stared he went on, making the most of the good + cheer upon which he had so fortunately alighted; and was soon elbow deep + in “pot luck,” and greased from the tip of his nose to the back of his + ears. + </p> + <p> + As the company recovered from their surprise, they began to feel annoyed + at this intrusion. Their uninvited guest, unlike the generality of his + tribe, was somewhat dirty as well as ragged and they had no relish for + such a messmate. Heaping up, therefore, an abundant portion of the + “provant” upon a piece of bark, which served for a dish, they invited him + to confine himself thereto, instead of foraging in the general mess. + </p> + <p> + He complied with the most accommodating spirit imaginable; and went on + eating and chatting, and laughing and smearing himself, until his whole + countenance shone with grease and good-humor. In the course of his repast, + his attention was caught by the figure of the gastronome, who, as usual, + was gorging himself in dogged silence. A droll cut of the eye showed + either that he knew him of old, or perceived at once his characteristics. + He immediately made him the butt of his pleasantries; and cracked off two + or three good hits, that caused the sluggish dolt to prick up his ears, + and delighted all the company. From this time, the uninvited guest was + taken into favor; his jokes began to be relished; his careless, free and + easy air, to be considered singularly amusing; and in the end, he was + pronounced by the travellers one of the merriest companions and most + entertaining vagabonds they had met with in the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + Supper being over, the redoubtable Shee-wee-she-ouaiter, for such was the + simple name by which he announced himself, declared his intention of + keeping company with the party for a day or two, if they had no objection; + and by way of backing his self-invitation, presented the carcass of the + buck as an earnest of his hunting abilities. By this time, he had so + completely effaced the unfavorable impression made by his first + appearance, that he was made welcome to the camp, and the Nez Perce guide + undertook to give him lodging for the night. The next morning, at break of + day, he borrowed a gun, and was off among the hills, nor was anything more + seen of him until a few minutes after the party had encamped for the + evening, when he again made his appearance, in his usual frank, careless + manner, and threw down the carcass of another noble deer, which he had + borne on his back for a considerable distance. + </p> + <p> + This evening he was the life of the party, and his open communicative + disposition, free from all disguise, soon put them in possession of his + history. He had been a kind of prodigal son in his native village; living + a loose, heedless life, and disregarding the precepts and imperative + commands of the chiefs. He had, in consequence, been expelled from the + village, but, in nowise disheartened at this banishment, had betaken + himself to the society of the border Indians, and had led a careless, + haphazard, vagabond life, perfectly consonant to his humors; heedless of + the future, so long as he had wherewithal for the present; and fearing no + lack of food, so long as he had the implements of the chase, and a fair + hunting ground. + </p> + <p> + Finding him very expert as a hunter, and being pleased with his + eccentricities, and his strange and merry humor, Captain Bonneville fitted + him out handsomely as the Nimrod of the party, who all soon became quite + attached to him. One of the earliest and most signal services he + performed, was to exorcise the insatiate kill-crop that hitherto oppressed + the party. In fact, the doltish Nez Perce, who had seemed so perfectly + insensible to rough treatment of every kind, by which the travellers had + endeavored to elbow him out of their society, could not withstand the + good-humored bantering, and occasionally sharp wit of She-wee-she. He + evidently quailed under his jokes, and sat blinking like an owl in + daylight, when pestered by the flouts and peckings of mischievous birds. + At length his place was found vacant at meal-time; no one knew when he + went off, or whither he had gone, but he was seen no more, and the vast + surplus that remained when the repast was over, showed what a mighty + gormandizer had departed. + </p> + <p> + Relieved from this incubus, the little party now went on cheerily. + She-wee-she kept them in fun as well as food. His hunting was always + successful; he was ever ready to render any assistance in the camp or on + the march; while his jokes, his antics, and the very cut of his + countenance, so full of whim and comicality, kept every one in good-humor. + </p> + <p> + In this way they journeyed on until they arrived on the banks of the + Immahah, and encamped near to the Nez Perce lodges. Here She-wee-she took + a sudden notion to visit his people, and show off the state of worldly + prosperity to which he had so suddenly attained. He accordingly departed + in the morning, arrayed in hunter’s style, and well appointed with + everything benefitting his vocation. The buoyancy of his gait, the + elasticity of his step, and the hilarity of his countenance, showed that + he anticipated, with chuckling satisfaction, the surprise he was about to + give those who had ejected him from their society in rags. But what a + change was there in his whole appearance when he rejoined the party in the + evening! He came skulking into camp like a beaten cur, with his tail + between his legs. All his finery was gone; he was naked as when he was + born, with the exception of a scanty flap that answered the purpose of a + fig leaf. His fellow-travellers at first did not know him, but supposed it + to be some vagrant Root Digger sneaking into the camp; but when they + recognized in this forlorn object their prime wag, She-wee-she, whom they + had seen depart in the morning in such high glee and high feather, they + could not contain their merriment, but hailed him with loud and repeated + peals of laughter. + </p> + <p> + She-wee-she was not of a spirit to be easily cast down; he soon joined in + the merriment as heartily as any one, and seemed to consider his reverse + of fortune an excellent joke. Captain Bonneville, however, thought proper + to check his good-humor, and demanded, with some degree of sternness, the + cause of his altered condition. He replied in the most natural and + self-complacent style imaginable, “that he had been among his cousins, who + were very poor; they had been delighted to see him; still more delighted + with his good fortune; they had taken him to their arms; admired his + equipments; one had begged for this; another for that”—in fine, what + with the poor devil’s inherent heedlessness, and the real generosity of + his disposition, his needy cousins had succeeded in stripping him of all + his clothes and accoutrements, excepting the fig leaf with which he had + returned to camp. + </p> + <p> + Seeing his total want of care and forethought, Captain Bonneville + determined to let him suffer a little, in hopes it might prove a salutary + lesson; and, at any rate, to make him no more presents while in the + neighborhood of his needy cousins. He was left, therefore, to shift for + himself in his naked condition; which, however, did not seem to give him + any concern, or to abate one jot of his good-humor. In the course of his + lounging about the camp, however, he got possession of a deer skin; + whereupon, cutting a slit in the middle, he thrust his head through it, so + that the two ends hung down before and behind, something like a South + American poncho, or the tabard of a herald. These ends he tied together, + under the armpits; and thus arrayed, presented himself once more before + the captain, with an air of perfect self-satisfaction, as though he + thought it impossible for any fault to be found with his toilet. + </p> + <p> + A little further journeying brought the travellers to the petty village of + Nez Perces, governed by the worthy and affectionate old patriarch who had + made Captain Bonneville the costly present of the very fine horse. The old + man welcomed them once more to his village with his usual cordiality, and + his respectable squaw and hopeful son, cherishing grateful recollections + of the hatchet and ear-bobs, joined in a chorus of friendly gratulation. + </p> + <p> + As the much-vaunted steed, once the joy and pride of this interesting + family, was now nearly knocked up by travelling, and totally inadequate to + the mountain scramble that lay ahead, Captain Bonneville restored him to + the venerable patriarch, with renewed acknowledgments for the invaluable + gift. Somewhat to his surprise, he was immediately supplied with a fine + two years’ old colt in his stead, a substitution which he afterward + learnt, according to Indian custom in such cases, he might have claimed as + a matter of right. We do not find that any after claims were made on + account of this colt. This donation may be regarded, therefore, as a + signal punctilio of Indian honor; but it will be found that the animal + soon proved an unlucky acquisition to the party. + </p> + <p> + While at this village, the Nez Perce guide had held consultations with + some of the inhabitants as to the mountain tract the party were about to + traverse. He now began to wear an anxious aspect, and to indulge in gloomy + forebodings. The snow, he had been told, lay to a great depth in the + passes of the mountains, and difficulties would increase as he proceeded. + He begged Captain Bonneville, therefore, to travel very slowly, so as to + keep the horses in strength and spirit for the hard times they would have + to encounter. The captain surrendered the regulation of the march entirely + to his discretion, and pushed on in the advance, amusing himself with + hunting, so as generally to kill a deer or two in the course of the day, + and arriving, before the rest of the party, at the spot designated by the + guide for the evening’s encampment. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, the others plodded on at the heels of the guide, + accompanied by that merry vagabond, She-wee-she. The primitive garb worn + by this droll left all his nether man exposed to the biting blasts of the + mountains. Still his wit was never frozen, nor his sunshiny temper + beclouded; and his innumerable antics and practical jokes, while they + quickened the circulation of his own blood, kept his companions in high + good-humor. + </p> + <p> + So passed the first day after the departure from the patriarch’s. The + second day commenced in the same manner; the captain in the advance, the + rest of the party following on slowly. She-wee-she, for the greater part + of the time, trudged on foot over the snow, keeping himself warm by hard + exercise, and all kinds of crazy capers. In the height of his foolery, the + patriarchal colt, which, unbroken to the saddle, was suffered to follow on + at large, happened to come within his reach. In a moment, he was on his + back, snapping his fingers, and yelping with delight. The colt, unused to + such a burden, and half wild by nature, fell to prancing and rearing and + snorting and plunging and kicking; and, at length, set off full speed over + the most dangerous ground. As the route led generally along the steep and + craggy sides of the hills, both horse and horseman were constantly in + danger, and more than once had a hairbreadth escape from deadly peril. + Nothing, however, could daunt this madcap savage. He stuck to the colt + like a plaister [sic], up ridges, down gullies; whooping and yelling with + the wildest glee. Never did beggar on horseback display more headlong + horsemanship. His companions followed him with their eyes, sometimes + laughing, sometimes holding in their breath at his vagaries, until they + saw the colt make a sudden plunge or start, and pitch his unlucky rider + headlong over a precipice. There was a general cry of horror, and all + hastened to the spot. They found the poor fellow lying among the rocks + below, sadly bruised and mangled. It was almost a miracle that he had + escaped with life. Even in this condition, his merry spirit was not + entirely quelled, and he summoned up a feeble laugh at the alarm and + anxiety of those who came to his relief. He was extricated from his rocky + bed, and a messenger dispatched to inform Captain Bonneville of the + accident. The latter returned with all speed, and encamped the party at + the first convenient spot. Here the wounded man was stretched upon buffalo + skins, and the captain, who officiated on all occasions as doctor and + surgeon to the party, proceeded to examine his wounds. The principal one + was a long and deep gash in the thigh, which reached to the bone. Calling + for a needle and thread, the captain now prepared to sew up the wound, + admonishing the patient to submit to the operation with becoming + fortitude. His gayety was at an end; he could no longer summon up even a + forced smile; and, at the first puncture of the needle, flinched so + piteously, that the captain was obliged to pause, and to order him a + powerful dose of alcohol. This somewhat rallied up his spirit and warmed + his heart; all the time of the operation, however, he kept his eyes + riveted on the wound, with his teeth set, and a whimsical wincing of the + countenance, that occasionally gave his nose something of its usual comic + curl. + </p> + <p> + When the wound was fairly closed, the captain washed it with rum, and + administered a second dose of the same to the patient, who was tucked in + for the night, and advised to compose himself to sleep. He was restless + and uneasy, however; repeatedly expressing his fears that his leg would be + so much swollen the next day, as to prevent his proceeding with the party; + nor could he be quieted, until the captain gave a decided opinion + favorable to his wishes. + </p> + <p> + Early the next morning, a gleam of his merry humor returned, on finding + that his wounded limb retained its natural proportions. On attempting to + use it, however, he found himself unable to stand. He made several efforts + to coax himself into a belief that he might still continue forward; but at + length, shook his head despondingly, and said, that “as he had but one + leg,” it was all in vain to attempt a passage of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + Every one grieved to part with so boon a companion, and under such + disastrous circumstances. He was once more clothed and equipped, each one + making him some parting present. He was then helped on a horse, which + Captain Bonneville presented to him; and after many parting expressions of + good will on both sides, set off on his return to his old haunts; + doubtless, to be once more plucked by his affectionate but needy cousins. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0037" id="link2H_4_0037"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 36. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The difficult mountain—A smoke and consultation—The + captain’s speech—An icy turnpike—Danger of a false step— + Arrival on Snake River—Return to—Portneuf—Meeting of + comrades +</pre> + <p> + CONTINUING THEIR JOURNEY UP the course of the Immahah, the travellers + found, as they approached the headwaters, the snow increased in quantity, + so as to lie two feet deep. They were again obliged, therefore, to beat + down a path for their horses, sometimes travelling on the icy surface of + the stream. At length they reached the place where they intended to scale + the mountains; and, having broken a pathway to the foot, were agreeably + surprised to find that the wind had drifted the snow from off the side, so + that they attained the summit with but little difficulty. Here they + encamped, with the intention of beating a track through the mountains. A + short experiment, however, obliged them to give up the attempt, the snow + lying in vast drifts, often higher than the horses’ heads. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville now took the two Indian guides, and set out to + reconnoitre the neighborhood. Observing a high peak which overtopped the + rest, he climbed it, and discovered from the summit a pass about nine + miles long, but so heavily piled with snow, that it seemed impracticable. + He now lit a pipe, and, sitting down with the two guides, proceeded to + hold a consultation after the Indian mode. For a long while they all + smoked vigorously and in silence, pondering over the subject matter before + them. At length a discussion commenced, and the opinion in which the two + guides concurred was, that the horses could not possibly cross the snows. + They advised, therefore, that the party should proceed on foot, and they + should take the horses back to the village, where they would be well taken + care of until Captain Bonneville should send for them. They urged this + advice with great earnestness; declaring that their chief would be + extremely angry, and treat them severely, should any of the horses of his + good friends, the white men, be lost, in crossing under their guidance; + and that, therefore, it was good they should not attempt it. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville sat smoking his pipe, and listening to them with Indian + silence and gravity. When they had finished, he replied to them in their + own style of language. + </p> + <p> + “My friends,” said he, “I have seen the pass, and have listened to your + words; you have little hearts. When troubles and dangers lie in your way, + you turn your backs. That is not the way with my nation. When great + obstacles present, and threaten to keep them back, their hearts swell, and + they push forward. They love to conquer difficulties. But enough for the + present. Night is coming on; let us return to our camp.” + </p> + <p> + He moved on, and they followed in silence. On reaching the camp, he found + the men extremely discouraged. One of their number had been surveying the + neighborhood, and seriously assured them that the snow was at least a + hundred feet deep. The captain cheered them up, and diffused fresh spirit + in them by his example. Still he was much perplexed how to proceed. About + dark there was a slight drizzling rain. An expedient now suggested itself. + This was to make two light sleds, place the packs on them, and drag them + to the other side of the mountain, thus forming a road in the wet snow, + which, should it afterward freeze, would be sufficiently hard to bear the + horses. This plan was promptly put into execution; the sleds were + constructed, the heavy baggage was drawn backward and forward until the + road was beaten, when they desisted from their fatiguing labor. The night + turned out clear and cold, and by morning, their road was incrusted with + ice sufficiently strong for their purpose. They now set out on their icy + turnpike, and got on well enough, excepting that now and then a horse + would sidle out of the track, and immediately sink up to the neck. Then + came on toil and difficulty, and they would be obliged to haul up the + floundering animal with ropes. One, more unlucky than the rest, after + repeated falls, had to be abandoned in the snow. Notwithstanding these + repeated delays, they succeeded, before the sun had acquired sufficient + power to thaw the snow, in getting all the rest of their horses safely to + the other side of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + Their difficulties and dangers, however, were not yet at an end. They had + now to descend, and the whole surface of the snow was glazed with ice. It + was necessary; therefore, to wait until the warmth of the sun should melt + the glassy crust of sleet, and give them a foothold in the yielding snow. + They had a frightful warning of the danger of any movement while the sleet + remained. A wild young mare, in her restlessness, strayed to the edge of a + declivity. One slip was fatal to her; she lost her balance, careered with + headlong velocity down the slippery side of the mountain for more than two + thousand feet, and was dashed to pieces at the bottom. When the travellers + afterward sought the carcass to cut it up for food, they found it torn and + mangled in the most horrible manner. + </p> + <p> + It was quite late in the evening before the party descended to the + ultimate skirts of the snow. Here they planted large logs below them to + prevent their sliding down, and encamped for the night. The next day they + succeeded in bringing down their baggage to the encampment; then packing + all up regularly, and loading their horses, they once more set out briskly + and cheerfully, and in the course of the following day succeeded in + getting to a grassy region. + </p> + <p> + Here their Nez Perce guides declared that all the difficulties of the + mountains were at an end, and their course was plain and simple, and + needed no further guidance; they asked leave, therefore, to return home. + This was readily granted, with many thanks and presents for their faithful + services. They took a long farewell smoke with their white friends, after + which they mounted their horses and set off, exchanging many farewells and + kind wishes. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, Captain Bonneville completed his journey down the + mountain, and encamped on the borders of Snake River, where he found the + grass in great abundance and eight inches in height. In this neighborhood, + he saw on the rocky banks of the river several prismoids of basaltes, + rising to the height of fifty or sixty feet. + </p> + <p> + Nothing particularly worthy of note occurred during several days as the + party proceeded up along Snake River and across its tributary streams. + After crossing Gun Creek, they met with various signs that white people + were in the neighborhood, and Captain Bonneville made earnest exertions to + discover whether they were any of his own people, that he might join them. + He soon ascertained that they had been starved out of this tract of + country, and had betaken themselves to the buffalo region, whither he now + shaped his course. In proceeding along Snake River, he found small hordes + of Shoshonies lingering upon the minor streams, and living upon trout and + other fish, which they catch in great numbers at this season in + fish-traps. The greater part of the tribe, however, had penetrated the + mountains to hunt the elk, deer, and ahsahta or bighorn. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of May, Captain Bonneville reached the Portneuf River, in the + vicinity of which he had left the winter encampment of his company on the + preceding Christmas day. He had then expected to be back by the beginning + of March, but circumstances had detained him upward of two months beyond + the time, and the winter encampment must long ere this have been broken + up. Halting on the banks of the Portneuf, he dispatched scouts a few miles + above, to visit the old camping ground and search for signals of the + party, or of their whereabouts, should they actually have abandoned the + spot. They returned without being able to ascertain anything. + </p> + <p> + Being now destitute of provisions, the travellers found it necessary to + make a short hunting excursion after buffalo. They made caches, therefore, + on an island in the river, in which they deposited all their baggage, and + then set out on their expedition. They were so fortunate as to kill a + couple of fine bulls, and cutting up the carcasses, determined to husband + this stock of provisions with the most miserly care, lest they should + again be obliged to venture into the open and dangerous hunting grounds. + Returning to their island on the 18th of May, they found that the wolves + had been at the caches, scratched up the contents, and scattered them in + every direction. They now constructed a more secure one, in which they + deposited their heaviest articles, and then descended Snake River again, + and encamped just above the American Falls. Here they proceeded to fortify + themselves, intending to remain here, and give their horses an opportunity + to recruit their strength with good pasturage, until it should be time to + set out for the annual rendezvous in Bear River valley. + </p> + <p> + On the first of June they descried four men on the other side of the + river, opposite to the camp, and, having attracted their attention by a + discharge of rifles, ascertained to their joy that they were some of their + own people. From these men Captain Bonneville learned that the whole party + which he had left in the preceding month of December were encamped on + Blackfoot River, a tributary of Snake River, not very far above the + Portneuf. Thither he proceeded with all possible dispatch, and in a little + while had the pleasure of finding himself once more surrounded by his + people, who greeted his return among them in the heartiest manner; for his + long-protracted absence had convinced them that he and his three + companions had been cut off by some hostile tribe. + </p> + <p> + The party had suffered much during his absence. They had been pinched by + famine and almost starved, and had been forced to repair to the caches at + Salmon River. Here they fell in with the Blackfeet bands, and considered + themselves fortunate in being able to retreat from the dangerous + neighborhood without sustaining any loss. + </p> + <p> + Being thus reunited, a general treat from Captain Bonneville to his men + was a matter of course. Two days, therefore, were given up to such + feasting and merriment as their means and situation afforded. What was + wanting in good cheer was made up in good will; the free trappers in + particular, distinguished themselves on the occasion, and the saturnalia + was enjoyed with a hearty holiday spirit, that smacked of the game flavor + of the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0038" id="link2H_4_0038"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 37. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure for the rendezvous—A war party of Blackfeet—A + mock bustle—Sham fires at night—Warlike precautions— + Dangers of a night attack—A panic among horses—Cautious + march—The Beer Springs—A mock carousel—Skirmishing with + buffaloes—A buffalo bait—Arrival at the rendezvous— + Meeting of various bands +</pre> + <p> + AFTER THE TWO DAYS of festive indulgence, Captain Bonneville broke up the + encampment, and set out with his motley crew of hired and free trappers, + half-breeds, Indians, and squaws, for the main rendezvous in Bear River + valley. Directing his course up the Blackfoot River, he soon reached the + hills among which it takes its rise. Here, while on the march, he descried + from the brow of a hill, a war party of about sixty Blackfeet, on the + plain immediately below him. His situation was perilous; for the greater + part of his people were dispersed in various directions. Still, to betray + hesitation or fear would be to discover his actual weakness, and to invite + attack. He assumed, instantly, therefore, a belligerent tone; ordered the + squaws to lead the horses to a small grove of ashen trees, and unload and + tie them; and caused a great bustle to be made by his scanty handful; the + leaders riding hither and thither, and vociferating with all their might, + as if a numerous force was getting under way for an attack. + </p> + <p> + To keep up the deception as to his force, he ordered, at night, a number + of extra fires to be made in his camp, and kept up a vigilant watch. His + men were all directed to keep themselves prepared for instant action. In + such cases the experienced trapper sleeps in his clothes, with his rifle + beside him, the shot-belt and powder-flask on the stock: so that, in case + of alarm, he can lay his hand upon the whole of his equipment at once, and + start up, completely armed. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville was also especially careful to secure the horses, and + set a vigilant guard upon them; for there lies the great object and + principal danger of a night attack. The grand move of the lurking savage + is to cause a panic among the horses. In such cases one horse frightens + another, until all are alarmed, and struggle to break loose. In camps + where there are great numbers of Indians, with their horses, a night alarm + of the kind is tremendous. The running of the horses that have broken + loose; the snorting, stamping, and rearing of those which remain fast; the + howling of dogs; the yelling of Indians; the scampering of white men, and + red men, with their guns; the overturning of lodges, and trampling of + fires by the horses; the flashes of the fires, lighting up forms of men + and steeds dashing through the gloom, altogether make up one of the + wildest scenes of confusion imaginable. In this way, sometimes, all the + horses of a camp amounting to several hundred will be frightened off in a + single night. + </p> + <p> + The night passed off without any disturbance; but there was no likelihood + that a war party of Blackfeet, once on the track of a camp where there was + a chance for spoils, would fail to hover round it. The captain, therefore, + continued to maintain the most vigilant precautions; throwing out scouts + in the advance, and on every rising ground. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the day he arrived at the plain of white clay, already + mentioned, surrounded by the mineral springs, called Beer Springs, by the + trappers. Here the men all halted to have a regale. In a few moments every + spring had its jovial knot of hard drinkers, with tin cup in hand, + indulging in a mock carouse; quaffing, pledging, toasting, bandying jokes, + singing drinking songs, and uttering peals of laughter, until it seemed as + if their imaginations had given potency to the beverage, and cheated them + into a fit of intoxication. Indeed, in the excitement of the moment, they + were loud and extravagant in their commendations of “the mountain tap”; + elevating it above every beverage produced from hops or malt. It was a + singular and fantastic scene; suited to a region where everything is + strange and peculiar:—These groups of trappers, and hunters, and + Indians, with their wild costumes, and wilder countenances; their + boisterous gayety, and reckless air; quaffing, and making merry round + these sparkling fountains; while beside them lay their weapons, ready to + be snatched up for instant service. Painters are fond of representing + banditti at their rude and picturesque carousels; but here were groups, + still more rude and picturesque; and it needed but a sudden onset of + Blackfeet, and a quick transition from a fantastic revel to a furious + melee, to have rendered this picture of a trapper’s life complete. + </p> + <p> + The beer frolic, however, passed off without any untoward circumstance; + and, unlike most drinking bouts, left neither headache nor heartache + behind. Captain Bonneville now directed his course up along Bear River; + amusing himself, occasionally, with hunting the buffalo, with which the + country was covered. Sometimes, when he saw a huge bull taking his repose + in a prairie, he would steal along a ravine, until close upon him; then + rouse him from his meditations with a pebble, and take a shot at him as he + started up. Such is the quickness with which this animal springs upon his + legs, that it is not easy to discover the muscular process by which it is + effected. The horse rises first upon his fore legs; and the domestic cow, + upon her hinder limbs; but the buffalo bounds at once from a couchant to + an erect position, with a celerity that baffles the eye. Though from his + bulk, and rolling gait, he does not appear to run with much swiftness; + yet, it takes a stanch horse to overtake him, when at full speed on level + ground; and a buffalo cow is still fleeter in her motion. + </p> + <p> + Among the Indians and half-breeds of the party, were several admirable + horsemen and bold hunters; who amused themselves with a grotesque kind of + buffalo bait. Whenever they found a huge bull in the plains, they prepared + for their teasing and barbarous sport. Surrounding him on horseback, they + would discharge their arrows at him in quick succession, goading him to + make an attack; which, with a dexterous movement of the horse, they would + easily avoid. In this way, they hovered round him, feathering him with + arrows, as he reared and plunged about, until he was bristled all over + like a porcupine. When they perceived in him signs of exhaustion, and he + could no longer be provoked to make battle, they would dismount from their + horses, approach him in the rear, and seizing him by the tail, jerk him + from side to side, and drag him backward; until the frantic animal, + gathering fresh strength from fury, would break from them, and rush, with + flashing eyes and a hoarse bellowing, upon any enemy in sight; but in a + little while, his transient excitement at an end, would pitch headlong on + the ground, and expire. The arrows were then plucked forth, the tongue cut + out and preserved as a dainty, and the carcass left a banquet for the + wolves. + </p> + <p> + Pursuing his course up Bear River, Captain Bonneville arrived, on the 13th + of June, at the Little Snake Lake; where he encamped for four or five + days, that he might examine its shores and outlets. The latter, he found + extremely muddy, and so surrounded by swamps and quagmires, that he was + obliged to construct canoes of rushes, with which to explore them. The + mouths of all the streams which fall into this lake from the west, are + marshy and inconsiderable; but on the east side, there is a beautiful + beach, broken, occasionally, by high and isolated bluffs, which advance + upon the lake, and heighten the character of the scenery. The water is + very shallow, but abounds with trout, and other small fish. + </p> + <p> + Having finished his survey of the lake, Captain Bonneville proceeded on + his journey, until on the banks of the Bear River, some distance higher + up, he came upon the party which he had detached a year before, to + circumambulate the Great Salt Lake, and ascertain its extent, and the + nature of its shores. They had been encamped here about twenty days; and + were greatly rejoiced at meeting once more with their comrades, from whom + they had so long been separated. The first inquiry of Captain Bonneville + was about the result of their journey, and the information they had + procured as to the Great Salt Lake; the object of his intense curiosity + and ambition. The substance of their report will be found in the following + chapter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0039" id="link2H_4_0039"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 38. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Plan of the Salt Lake expedition—Great sandy deserts— + Sufferings from thirst—Ogden’s—River—Trails and smoke of + lurking savages—Thefts at night—A trapper’s revenge— + Alarms of a guilty conscience—A murderous victory— + Californian mountains—Plains along the—Pacific—Arrival + at—Monterey—Account of the place and neighborhood—Lower— + California—Its extent—The Peninsula—Soil—Climate— + Production—Its settlements by the Jesuits—Their sway over + the Indians—Their expulsion—Ruins of a missionary + establishment—Sublime scenery—Upper California Missions— + Their power and policy—Resources of the country—Designs of + foreign nations +</pre> + <p> + IT WAS ON THE 24TH of July, in the preceding year (1833), that the brigade + of forty men set out from Green River valley, to explore the Great Salt + Lake. They were to make the complete circuit of it, trapping on all the + streams which should fall in their way, and to keep journals and make + charts, calculated to impart a knowledge of the lake and the surrounding + country. All the resources of Captain Bonneville had been tasked to fit + out this favorite expedition. The country lying to the southwest of the + mountains, and ranging down to California, was as yet almost unknown; + being out of the buffalo range, it was untraversed by the trapper, who + preferred those parts of the wilderness where the roaming herds of that + species of animal gave him comparatively an abundant and luxurious life. + Still it was said the deer, the elk, and the bighorn were to be found + there, so that, with a little diligence and economy, there was no danger + of lacking food. As a precaution, however, the party halted on Bear River + and hunted for a few days, until they had laid in a supply of dried + buffalo meat and venison; they then passed by the head waters of the + Cassie River, and soon found themselves launched on an immense sandy + desert. Southwardly, on their left, they beheld the Great Salt Lake, + spread out like a sea, but they found no stream running into it. A desert + extended around them, and stretched to the southwest, as far as the eye + could reach, rivalling the deserts of Asia and Africa in sterility. There + was neither tree, nor herbage, nor spring, nor pool, nor running stream, + nothing but parched wastes of sand, where horse and rider were in danger + of perishing. + </p> + <p> + Their sufferings, at length, became so great that they abandoned their + intended course, and made towards a range of snowy mountains, brightening + in the north, where they hoped to find water. After a time, they came upon + a small stream leading directly towards these mountains. Having quenched + their burning thirst, and refreshed themselves and their weary horses for + a time, they kept along this stream, which gradually increased in size, + being fed by numerous brooks. After approaching the mountains, it took a + sweep toward the southwest, and the travellers still kept along it, + trapping beaver as they went, on the flesh of which they subsisted for the + present, husbanding their dried meat for future necessities. + </p> + <p> + The stream on which they had thus fallen is called by some, Mary River, + but is more generally known as Ogden’s River, from Mr. Peter Ogden, an + enterprising and intrepid leader of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who first + explored it. The wild and half-desert region through which the travellers + were passing, is wandered over by hordes of Shoshokoes, or Root Diggers, + the forlorn branch of the Snake tribe. They are a shy people, prone to + keep aloof from the stranger. The travellers frequently met with their + trails, and saw the smoke of their fires rising in various parts of the + vast landscape, so that they knew there were great numbers in the + neighborhood, but scarcely ever were any of them to be met with. + </p> + <p> + After a time, they began to have vexatious proofs that, if the Shoshokoes + were quiet by day, they were busy at night. The camp was dogged by these + eavesdroppers; scarce a morning, but various articles were missing, yet + nothing could be seen of the marauders. What particularly exasperated the + hunters, was to have their traps stolen from the streams. One morning, a + trapper of a violent and savage character, discovering that his traps had + been carried off in the night, took a horrid oath to kill the first Indian + he should meet, innocent or guilty. As he was returning with his comrades + to camp, he beheld two unfortunate Diggers, seated on the river bank, + fishing. Advancing upon them, he levelled his rifle, shot one upon the + spot, and flung his bleeding body into the stream. The other Indian fled + and was suffered to escape. Such is the indifference with which acts of + violence are regarded in the wilderness, and such the immunity an armed + ruffian enjoys beyond the barriers of the laws, that the only punishment + this desperado met with, was a rebuke from the leader of the party. The + trappers now left the scene of this infamous tragedy, and kept on + westward, down the course of the river, which wound along with a range of + mountains on the right hand, and a sandy, but somewhat fertile plain, on + the left. As they proceeded, they beheld columns of smoke rising, as + before, in various directions, which their guilty consciences now + converted into alarm signals, to arouse the country and collect the + scattered bands for vengeance. + </p> + <p> + After a time, the natives began to make their appearance, and sometimes in + considerable numbers, but always pacific; the trappers, however, suspected + them of deep-laid plans to draw them into ambuscades; to crowd into and + get possession of their camp, and various other crafty and daring + conspiracies, which, it is probable, never entered into the heads of the + poor savages. In fact, they are a simple, timid, inoffensive race, + unpractised in warfare, and scarce provided with any weapons, excepting + for the chase. Their lives are passed in the great sand plains and along + the adjacent rivers; they subsist sometimes on fish, at other times on + roots and the seeds of a plant, called the cat’s-tail. They are of the + same kind of people that Captain Bonneville found upon Snake River, and + whom he found so mild and inoffensive. + </p> + <p> + The trappers, however, had persuaded themselves that they were making + their way through a hostile country, and that implacable foes hung round + their camp or beset their path, watching for an opportunity to surprise + them. At length, one day they came to the banks of a stream emptying into + Ogden’s River, which they were obliged to ford. Here a great number of + Shoshokoes were posted on the opposite bank. Persuaded they were there + with hostile intent, they advanced upon them, levelled their rifles, and + killed twenty five of them upon the spot. The rest fled to a short + distance, then halted and turned about, howling and whining like wolves, + and uttering the most piteous wailings. The trappers chased them in every + direction; the poor wretches made no defence, but fled with terror; + neither does it appear from the accounts of the boasted victors, that a + weapon had been wielded or a weapon launched by the Indians throughout the + affair. We feel perfectly convinced that the poor savages had no hostile + intention, but had merely gathered together through motives of curiosity, + as others of their tribe had done when Captain Bonneville and his + companions passed along Snake River. + </p> + <p> + The trappers continued down Ogden’s River, until they ascertained that it + lost itself in a great swampy lake, to which there was no apparent + discharge. They then struck directly westward, across the great chain of + California mountains intervening between these interior plains and the + shores of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + For three and twenty days they were entangled among these mountains, the + peaks and ridges of which are in many places covered with perpetual snow. + Their passes and defiles present the wildest scenery, partaking of the + sublime rather than the beautiful, and abounding with frightful + precipices. The sufferings of the travellers among these savage mountains + were extreme: for a part of the time they were nearly starved; at length, + they made their way through them, and came down upon the plains of New + California, a fertile region extending along the coast, with magnificent + forests, verdant savannas, and prairies that looked like stately parks. + Here they found deer and other game in abundance, and indemnified + themselves for past famine. They now turned toward the south, and passing + numerous small bands of natives, posted upon various streams, arrived at + the Spanish village and post of Monterey. + </p> + <p> + This is a small place, containing about two hundred houses, situated in + latitude 37 north. It has a capacious bay, with indifferent anchorage. The + surrounding country is extremely fertile, especially in the valleys; the + soil is richer, the further you penetrate into the interior, and the + climate is described as a perpetual spring. Indeed, all California, + extending along the Pacific Ocean from latitude 19 30’ to 42 north, is + represented as one of the most fertile and beautiful regions in North + America. + </p> + <p> + Lower California, in length about seven hundred miles, forms a great + peninsula, which crosses the tropics and terminates in the torrid zone. It + is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California, sometimes called + the Vermilion Sea; into this gulf empties the Colorado of the West, the + Seeds-ke-dee, or Green River, as it is also sometimes called. The + peninsula is traversed by stern and barren mountains, and has many sandy + plains, where the only sign of vegetation is the cylindrical cactus + growing among the clefts of the rocks. Wherever there is water, however, + and vegetable mould, the ardent nature of the climate quickens everything + into astonishing fertility. There are valleys luxuriant with the rich and + beautiful productions of the tropics. There the sugar-cane and indigo + plant attain a perfection unequalled in any other part of North America. + There flourish the olive, the fig, the date, the orange, the citron, the + pomegranate, and other fruits belonging to the voluptuous climates of the + south; with grapes in abundance, that yield a generous wine. In the + interior are salt plains; silver mines and scanty veins of gold are said, + likewise, to exist; and pearls of a beautiful water are to be fished upon + the coast. + </p> + <p> + The peninsula of California was settled in 1698, by the Jesuits, who, + certainly, as far as the natives were concerned, have generally proved the + most beneficent of colonists. In the present instance, they gained and + maintained a footing in the country without the aid of military force, but + solely by religious influence. They formed a treaty, and entered into the + most amicable relations with the natives, then numbering from twenty-five + to thirty thousand souls, and gained a hold upon their affections, and a + control over their minds, that effected a complete change in their + condition. They built eleven missionary establishments in the various + valleys of the peninsula, which formed rallying places for the surrounding + savages, where they gathered together as sheep into the fold, and + surrendered themselves and their consciences into the hands of these + spiritual pastors. Nothing, we are told, could exceed the implicit and + affectionate devotion of the Indian converts to the Jesuit fathers, and + the Catholic faith was disseminated widely through the wilderness. The + growing power and influence of the Jesuits in the New World at length + excited the jealousy of the Spanish government, and they were banished + from the colonies. The governor, who arrived at California to expel them, + and to take charge of the country, expected to find a rich and powerful + fraternity, with immense treasures hoarded in their missions, and an army + of Indians ready to defend them. On the contrary, he beheld a few + venerable silver-haired priests coming humbly forward to meet him, + followed by a throng of weeping, but submissive natives. The heart of the + governor, it is said, was so touched by this unexpected sight, that he + shed tears; but he had to execute his orders. The Jesuits were accompanied + to the place of their embarkation by their simple and affectionate + parishioners, who took leave of them with tears and sobs. Many of the + latter abandoned their hereditary abodes, and wandered off to join their + southern brethren, so that but a remnant remained in the peninsula. The + Franciscans immediately succeeded the Jesuits, and subsequently the + Dominicans; but the latter managed their affairs ill. But two of the + missionary establishments are at present occupied by priests; the rest are + all in ruins, excepting one, which remains a monument of the former power + and prosperity of the order. This is a noble edifice, once the seat of the + chief of the resident Jesuits. It is situated in a beautiful valley, about + half way between the Gulf of California and the broad ocean, the peninsula + being here about sixty miles wide. The edifice is of hewn stone, one story + high, two hundred and ten feet in front, and about fifty-five feet deep. + The walls are six feet thick, and sixteen feet high, with a vaulted roof + of stone, about two feet and a half in thickness. It is now abandoned and + desolate; the beautiful valley is without an inhabitant—not a human + being resides within thirty miles of the place! + </p> + <p> + In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the traveller + passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be the highest peak in + the Californias. From this lofty eminence, a vast and magnificent prospect + unfolds itself; the great Gulf of California, with the dark blue sea + beyond, studded with islands; and in another direction, the immense lava + plain of San Gabriel. The splendor of the climate gives an Italian effect + to the immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color, and the sunsets + are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a slight and imperfect + sketch of this remarkable peninsula. + </p> + <p> + Upper California extends from latitude 31 10’ to 42 on the Pacific, and + inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains which divide it from + the sand plains of the interior. There are about twenty-one missions in + this province, most of which were established about fifty years since, and + are generally under the care of the Franciscans. These exert a protecting + sway over about thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who reside on the + lands around the mission houses. Each of these houses has fifteen miles + square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots, proportioned to + the number of Indian converts attached to the mission. Some are enclosed + with high walls; but in general they are open hamlets, composed of rows of + huts, built of sunburnt bricks; in some instances whitewashed and roofed + with tiles. Many of them are far in the interior, beyond the reach of all + military protection, and dependent entirely on the good will of the + natives, which never fails them. They have made considerable progress in + teaching the Indians the useful arts. There are native tanners, + shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters, and other artificers + attached to each establishment. Others are taught husbandry, and the + rearing of cattle and horses; while the females card and spin wool, weave, + and perform the other duties allotted to their sex in civilized life. No + social intercourse is allowed between the unmarried of the opposite sexes + after working hours; and at night they are locked up in separate + apartments, and the keys delivered to the priests. + </p> + <p> + The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales, are + entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not required for the + support of the missions, goes to augment a fund which is under their + control. Hides and tallow constitute the principal riches of the missions, + and, indeed, the main commerce of the country. Grain might be produced to + an unlimited extent at the establishments, were there a sufficient market + for it. Olives and grapes are also reared at the missions. + </p> + <p> + Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the former may + be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they are of an inferior + breed. Mules, which are here of a large size and of valuable qualities, + cost from seven to ten dollars. + </p> + <p> + There are several excellent ports along this coast. San Diego, San + Barbara, Monterey, the bay of San Francisco, and the northern port of + Bondago; all afford anchorage for ships of the largest class. The port of + San Francisco is too well known to require much notice in this place. The + entrance from the sea is sixty-seven fathoms deep, and within, whole + navies might ride with perfect safety. Two large rivers, which take their + rise in mountains two or three hundred miles to the east, and run through + a country unsurpassed for soil and climate, empty themselves into the + harbor. The country around affords admirable timber for ship-building. In + a word, this favored port combines advantages which not only fit it for a + grand naval depot, but almost render it capable of being made the dominant + military post of these seas. + </p> + <p> + Such is a feeble outline of the Californian coast and country, the value + of which is more and more attracting the attention of naval powers. The + Russians have always a ship of war upon this station, and have already + encroached upon the Californian boundaries, by taking possession of the + port of Bondago, and fortifying it with several guns. Recent surveys have + likewise been made, both by the Russians and the English; and we have + little doubt, that, at no very distant day, this neglected, and, until + recently, almost unknown region, will be found to possess sources of + wealth sufficient to sustain a powerful and prosperous empire. Its + inhabitants, themselves, are but little aware of its real riches; they + have not enterprise sufficient to acquaint themselves with a vast interior + that lies almost a terra incognita; nor have they the skill and industry + to cultivate properly the fertile tracts along the coast; nor to prosecute + that foreign commerce which brings all the resources of a country into + profitable action. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0040" id="link2H_4_0040"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 39. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Gay life at Monterey—Mexican horsemen—A bold dragoon—Use + of the lasso—Vaqueros—Noosing a bear—Fight between a bull + and a bear—Departure from Monterey—Indian horse stealers— + Outrages committed by the travellers—Indignation of Captain + Bonneville +</pre> + <p> + THE WANDERING BAND of trappers was well received at Monterey, the + inhabitants were desirous of retaining them among them, and offered + extravagant wages to such as were acquainted with any mechanic art. When + they went into the country, too, they were kindly treated by the priests + at the missions; who are always hospitable to strangers, whatever may be + their rank or religion. They had no lack of provisions; being permitted to + kill as many as they pleased of the vast herds of cattle that graze the + country, on condition, merely, of rendering the hides to the owners. They + attended bull-fights and horseraces; forgot all the purposes of their + expedition; squandered away freely the property that did not belong to + them; and, in a word, revelled in a perfect fool’s paradise. + </p> + <p> + What especially delighted them was the equestrian skill of the + Californians. The vast number and the cheapness of the horses in this + country makes every one a cavalier. The Mexicans and halfbreeds of + California spend the greater part of their time in the saddle. They are + fearless riders; and their daring feats upon unbroken colts and wild + horses, astonished our trappers; though accustomed to the bold riders of + the prairies. + </p> + <p> + A Mexican horseman has much resemblance, in many points, to the + equestrians of Old Spain; and especially to the vain-glorious caballero of + Andalusia. A Mexican dragoon, for instance, is represented as arrayed in a + round blue jacket, with red cuffs and collar; blue velvet breeches, + unbuttoned at the knees to show his white stockings; bottinas of deer + skin; a round-crowned Andalusian hat, and his hair cued. On the pommel of + his saddle, he carries balanced a long musket, with fox skin round the + lock. He is cased in a cuirass of double-fold deer skin, and carries a + bull’s hide shield; he is forked in a Moorish saddle, high before and + behind; his feet are thrust into wooden box stirrups, of Moorish fashion, + and a tremendous pair of iron spurs, fastened by chains, jingle at his + heels. Thus equipped, and suitably mounted, he considers himself the glory + of California, and the terror of the universe. + </p> + <p> + The Californian horsemen seldom ride out without the laso [sic]; that is + to say, a long coil of cord, with a slip noose; with which they are + expert, almost to a miracle. The laso, now almost entirely confined to + Spanish America, is said to be of great antiquity; and to have come, + originally, from the East. It was used, we are told, by a pastoral people + of Persian descent; of whom eight thousand accompanied the army of Xerxes. + By the Spanish Americans, it is used for a variety of purposes; and among + others, for hauling wood. Without dismounting, they cast the noose around + a log, and thus drag it to their houses. The vaqueros, or Indian cattle + drivers, have also learned the use of the laso from the Spaniards; and + employ it to catch the half-wild cattle by throwing it round their horns. + </p> + <p> + The laso is also of great use in furnishing the public with a favorite, + though barbarous sport; the combat between a bear and a wild bull. For + this purpose, three or four horsemen sally forth to some wood, frequented + by bears, and, depositing the carcass of a bullock, hide themselves in the + vicinity. The bears are soon attracted by the bait. As soon as one, fit + for their purpose, makes his appearance, they run out, and with the laso, + dexterously noose him by either leg. After dragging him at full speed + until he is fatigued, they secure him more effectually; and tying him on + the carcass of the bullock, draw him in triumph to the scene of action. By + this time, he is exasperated to such frenzy, that they are sometimes + obliged to throw cold water on him, to moderate his fury; and dangerous + would it be, for horse and rider, were he, while in this paroxysm, to + break his bonds. + </p> + <p> + A wild bull, of the fiercest kind, which has been caught and exasperated + in the same manner, is now produced; and both animals are turned loose in + the arena of a small amphitheatre. The mortal fight begins instantly; and + always, at first, to the disadvantage of Bruin; fatigued, as he is, by his + previous rough riding. Roused, at length, by the repeated goring of the + bull, he seizes his muzzle with his sharp claws, and clinging to this most + sensitive part, causes him to bellow with rage and agony. In his heat and + fury, the bull lolls out his tongue; this is instantly clutched by the + bear; with a desperate effort he overturns his huge antagonist; and then + dispatches him without difficulty. + </p> + <p> + Beside this diversion, the travellers were likewise regaled with + bull-fights, in the genuine style of Old Spain; the Californians being + considered the best bull-fighters in the Mexican dominions. + </p> + <p> + After a considerable sojourn at Monterey, spent in these very edifying, + but not very profitable amusements, the leader of this vagabond party set + out with his comrades, on his return journey. Instead of retracing their + steps through the mountains, they passed round their southern extremity, + and, crossing a range of low hills, found themselves in the sandy plains + south of Ogden’s River; in traversing which, they again suffered, + grievously, for want of water. + </p> + <p> + In the course of their journey, they encountered a party of Mexicans in + pursuit of a gang of natives, who had been stealing horses. The savages of + this part of California are represented as extremely poor, and armed only + with stone-pointed arrows; it being the wise policy of the Spaniards not + to furnish them with firearms. As they find it difficult, with their blunt + shafts, to kill the wild game of the mountains, they occasionally supply + themselves with food, by entrapping the Spanish horses. Driving them + stealthily into fastnesses and ravines, they slaughter them without + difficulty, and dry their flesh for provisions. Some they carry off to + trade with distant tribes; and in this way, the Spanish horses pass from + hand to hand among the Indians, until they even find their way across the + Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + The Mexicans are continually on the alert, to intercept these marauders; + but the Indians are apt to outwit them, and force them to make long and + wild expeditions in pursuit of their stolen horses. + </p> + <p> + Two of the Mexican party just mentioned joined the band of trappers, and + proved themselves worthy companions. In the course of their journey + through the country frequented by the poor Root Diggers, there seems to + have been an emulation between them, which could inflict the greatest + outrages upon the natives. The trappers still considered them in the light + of dangerous foes; and the Mexicans, very probably, charged them with the + sin of horse-stealing; we have no other mode of accounting for the + infamous barbarities of which, according to their own story, they were + guilty; hunting the poor Indians like wild beasts, and killing them + without mercy. The Mexicans excelled at this savage sport; chasing their + unfortunate victims at full speed; noosing them round the neck with their + lasos, and then dragging them to death! + </p> + <p> + Such are the scanty details of this most disgraceful expedition; at least, + such are all that Captain Bonneville had the patience to collect; for he + was so deeply grieved by the failure of his plans, and so indignant at the + atrocities related to him, that he turned, with disgust and horror, from + the narrators. Had he exerted a little of the Lynch law of the wilderness, + and hanged those dexterous horsemen in their own lasos, it would but have + been a well-merited and salutary act of retributive justice. The failure + of this expedition was a blow to his pride, and a still greater blow to + his purse. The Great Salt Lake still remained unexplored; at the same + time, the means which had been furnished so liberally to fit out this + favorite expedition, had all been squandered at Monterey; and the + peltries, also, which had been collected on the way. He would have but + scanty returns, therefore, to make this year, to his associates in the + United States; and there was great danger of their becoming disheartened, + and abandoning the enterprise. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0041" id="link2H_4_0041"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 40. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Traveller’s tales—Indian lurkers—Prognostics of Buckeye + Signs and portents—The medicine wolf—An alarm—An ambush + The captured provant—Triumph of Buckeye—Arrival of + supplies Grand carouse—Arrangements for the year—Mr. Wyeth + and his new-levied band. +</pre> + <p> + THE horror and indignation felt by Captain Bonneville at the excesses of + the Californian adventurers were not participated by his men; on the + contrary, the events of that expedition were favorite themes in the camp. + The heroes of Monterey bore the palm in all the gossipings among the + hunters. Their glowing descriptions of Spanish bear-baits and bull-fights + especially, were listened to with intense delight; and had another + expedition to California been proposed, the difficulty would have been to + restrain a general eagerness to volunteer. + </p> + <p> + The captain had not long been at the rendezvous when he perceived, by + various signs, that Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. It was + evident that the Blackfoot band, which he had seen when on his march, had + dogged his party, and were intent on mischief. He endeavored to keep his + camp on the alert; but it is as difficult to maintain discipline among + trappers at a rendezvous as among sailors when in port. + </p> + <p> + Buckeye, the Delaware Indian, was scandalized at this heedlessness of the + hunters when an enemy was at hand, and was continually preaching up + caution. He was a little prone to play the prophet, and to deal in signs + and portents, which occasionally excited the merriment of his white + comrades. He was a great dreamer, and believed in charms and talismans, or + medicines, and could foretell the approach of strangers by the howling or + barking of the small prairie wolf. This animal, being driven by the larger + wolves from the carcasses left on the hunting grounds by the hunters, + follows the trail of the fresh meat carried to the camp. Here the smell of + the roast and broiled, mingling with every breeze, keeps them hovering + about the neighborhood; scenting every blast, turning up their noses like + hungry hounds, and testifying their pinching hunger by long whining howls + and impatient barkings. These are interpreted by the superstitious Indians + into warnings that strangers are at hand; and one accidental coincidence, + like the chance fulfillment of an almanac prediction, is sufficient to + cover a thousand failures. This little, whining, feast-smelling animal is, + therefore, called among Indians the “medicine wolf;” and such was one of + Buckeye’s infallible oracles. + </p> + <p> + One morning early, the soothsaying Delaware appeared with a gloomy + countenance. His mind was full of dismal presentiments, whether from + mysterious dreams, or the intimations of the medicine wolf, does not + appear. “Danger,” he said, “was lurking in their path, and there would be + some fighting before sunset.” He was bantered for his prophecy, which was + attributed to his having supped too heartily, and been visited by bad + dreams. In the course of the morning a party of hunters set out in pursuit + of buffaloes, taking with them a mule, to bring home the meat they should + procure. They had been some few hours absent, when they came clattering at + full speed into camp, giving the war cry of Blackfeet! Blackfeet! Every + one seized his weapon and ran to learn the cause of the alarm. It appeared + that the hunters, as they were returning leisurely, leading their mule + well laden with prime pieces of buffalo meat, passed close by a small + stream overhung with trees, about two miles from the camp. Suddenly a + party of Blackfeet, who lay in ambush along the thickets, sprang up with a + fearful yell, and discharged a volley at the hunters. The latter + immediately threw themselves flat on their horses, put them to their + speed, and never paused to look behind, until they found themselves in + camp. Fortunately they had escaped without a wound; but the mule, with all + the “provant,” had fallen into the hands of the enemy This was a loss, as + well as an insult, not to be borne. Every man sprang to horse, and with + rifle in hand, galloped off to punish the Blackfeet, and rescue the + buffalo beef. They came too late; the marauders were off, and all that + they found of their mule was the dents of his hoofs, as he had been + conveyed off at a round trot, bearing his savory cargo to the hills, to + furnish the scampering savages with a banquet of roast meat at the expense + of the white men. + </p> + <p> + The party returned to camp, balked of their revenge, but still more + grievously balked of their supper. Buckeye, the Delaware, sat smoking by + his fire, perfectly composed. As the hunters related the particulars of + the attack, he listened in silence, with unruffled countenance, then + pointing to the west, “the sun has not yet set,” said he: “Buckeye did not + dream like a fool!” + </p> + <p> + All present now recollected the prediction of the Indian at daybreak, and + were struck with what appeared to be its fulfilment. They called to mind, + also, a long catalogue of foregone presentiments and predictions made at + various times by the Delaware, and, in their superstitious credulity, + began to consider him a veritable seer; without thinking how natural it + was to predict danger, and how likely to have the prediction verified in + the present instance, when various signs gave evidence of a lurking foe. + </p> + <p> + The various bands of Captain Bonneville’s company had now been assembled + for some time at the rendezvous; they had had their fill of feasting, and + frolicking, and all the species of wild and often uncouth merrymaking, + which invariably take place on these occasions. Their horses, as well as + themselves, had recovered from past famine and fatigue, and were again fit + for active service; and an impatience began to manifest itself among the + men once more to take the field, and set off on some wandering expedition. + </p> + <p> + At this juncture M. Cerre arrived at the rendezvous at the head of a + supply party, bringing goods and equipments from the States. This active + leader, it will be recollected, had embarked the year previously in + skin-boats on the Bighorn, freighted with the year’s collection of + peltries. He had met with misfortune in the course of his voyage: one of + his frail barks being upset, and part of the furs lost or damaged. + </p> + <p> + The arrival of the supplies gave the regular finish to the annual revel. A + grand outbreak of wild debauch ensued among the mountaineers; drinking, + dancing, swaggering, gambling, quarrelling, and fighting. Alcohol, which, + from its portable qualities, containing the greatest quantity of fiery + spirit in the smallest compass, is the only liquor carried across the + mountains, is the inflammatory beverage at these carousals, and is dealt + out to the trappers at four dollars a pint. When inflamed by this fiery + beverage, they cut all kinds of mad pranks and gambols, and sometimes burn + all their clothes in their drunken bravadoes. A camp, recovering from one + of these riotous revels, presents a seriocomic spectacle; black eyes, + broken heads, lack-lustre visages. Many of the trappers have squandered in + one drunken frolic the hard-earned wages of a year; some have run in debt, + and must toil on to pay for past pleasure. All are sated with this deep + draught of pleasure, and eager to commence another trapping campaign; for + hardship and hard work, spiced with the stimulants of wild adventures, and + topped off with an annual frantic carousal, is the lot of the restless + trapper. + </p> + <p> + The captain now made his arrangements for the current year. Cerre and + Walker, with a number of men who had been to California, were to proceed + to St. Louis with the packages of furs collected during the past year. + Another party, headed by a leader named Montero, was to proceed to the + Crow country, trap upon its various streams, and among the Black Hills, + and thence to proceed to the Arkansas, where he was to go into winter + quarters. + </p> + <p> + The captain marked out for himself a widely different course. He intended + to make another expedition, with twenty-three men to the lower part of the + Columbia River, and to proceed to the valley of the Multnomah; after + wintering in those parts, and establishing a trade with those tribes, + among whom he had sojourned on his first visit, he would return in the + spring, cross the Rocky Mountains, and join Montero and his party in the + month of July, at the rendezvous of the Arkansas; where he expected to + receive his annual supplies from the States. + </p> + <p> + If the reader will cast his eye upon a map, he may form an idea of the + contempt for distance which a man acquires in this vast wilderness, by + noticing the extent of country comprised in these projected wanderings. + Just as the different parties were about to set out on the 3d of July, on + their opposite routes, Captain Bonneville received intelligence that + Wyeth, the indefatigable leader of the salmon-fishing enterprise, who had + parted with him about a year previously on the banks of the Bighorn, to + descend that wild river in a bull boat, was near at hand, with a new + levied band of hunters and trappers, and was on his way once more to the + banks of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + As we take much interest in the novel enterprise of this “eastern man,” + and are pleased with his pushing and persevering spirit; and as his + movements are characteristic of life in the wilderness, we will, with the + reader’s permission, while Captain Bonneville is breaking up his camp and + saddling his horses, step back a year in time, and a few hundred miles in + distance to the bank of the Bighorn, and launch ourselves with Wyeth in + his bull boat; and though his adventurous voyage will take us many + hundreds of miles further down wild and wandering rivers; yet such is the + magic power of the pen, that we promise to bring the reader safe to Bear + River Valley, by the time the last horse is saddled. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0042" id="link2H_4_0042"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 41. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A voyage in a bull boat. +</pre> + <p> + IT was about the middle of August (1833) that Mr. Nathaniel J. Wyeth, as + the reader may recollect, launched his bull boat at the foot of the rapids + of the Bighorn, and departed in advance of the parties of Campbell and + Captain Bonneville. His boat was made of three buffalo skins, stretched on + a light frame, stitched together, and the seams paid with elk tallow and + ashes. It was eighteen feet long, and about five feet six inches wide, + sharp at each end, with a round bottom, and drew about a foot and a half + of water-a depth too great for these upper rivers, which abound with + shallows and sand-bars. The crew consisted of two half-breeds, who claimed + to be white men, though a mixture of the French creole and the Shawnee and + Potawattomie. They claimed, moreover, to be thorough mountaineers, and + first-rate hunters—the common boast of these vagabonds of the + wilderness. Besides these, there was a Nez Perce lad of eighteen years of + age, a kind of servant of all work, whose great aim, like all Indian + servants, was to do as little work as possible; there was, moreover, a + half-breed boy, of thirteen, named Baptiste, son of a Hudson’s Bay trader + by a Flathead beauty; who was travelling with Wyeth to see the world and + complete his education. Add to these, Mr. Milton Sublette, who went as + passenger, and we have the crew of the little bull boat complete. + </p> + <p> + It certainly was a slight armament with which to run the gauntlet through + countries swarming with hostile hordes, and a slight bark to navigate + these endless rivers, tossing and pitching down rapids, running on snags + and bumping on sand-bars; such, however, are the cockle-shells with which + these hardy rovers of the wilderness will attempt the wildest streams; and + it is surprising what rough shocks and thumps these boats will endure, and + what vicissitudes they will live through. Their duration, however, is but + limited; they require frequently to be hauled out of the water and dried, + to prevent the hides from becoming water-soaked; and they eventually rot + and go to pieces. + </p> + <p> + The course of the river was a little to the north of east; it ran about + five miles an hour, over a gravelly bottom. The banks were generally + alluvial, and thickly grown with cottonwood trees, intermingled + occasionally with ash and plum trees. Now and then limestone cliffs and + promontories advanced upon the river, making picturesque headlands. Beyond + the woody borders rose ranges of naked hills. + </p> + <p> + Milton Sublette was the Pelorus of this adventurous bark; being somewhat + experienced in this wild kind of navigation. It required all his attention + and skill, however, to pilot her clear of sand-bars and snags of sunken + trees. There was often, too, a perplexity of choice, where the river + branched into various channels, among clusters of islands; and + occasionally the voyagers found themselves aground and had to turn back. + </p> + <p> + It was necessary, also, to keep a wary eye upon the land, for they were + passing through the heart of the Crow country, and were continually in + reach of any ambush that might be lurking on shore. The most formidable + foes that they saw, however, were three grizzly bears, quietly promenading + along the bank, who seemed to gaze at them with surprise as they glided + by. Herds of buffalo, also, were moving about, or lying on the ground, + like cattle in a pasture; excepting such inhabitants as these, a perfect + solitude reigned over the land. There was no sign of human habitation; for + the Crows, as we have already shown, are a wandering people, a race of + hunters and warriors, who live in tents and on horseback, and are + continually on the move. At night they landed, hauled up their boat to + dry, pitched their tent, and made a rousing fire. Then, as it was the + first evening of their voyage, they indulged in a regale, relishing their + buffalo beef with inspiring alcohol; after which, they slept soundly, + without dreaming of Crows or Blackfeet. Early in the morning, they again + launched the boat and committed themselves to the stream. + </p> + <p> + In this way they voyaged for two days without any material occurrence, + excepting a severe thunder storm, which compelled them to put to shore, + and wait until it was passed. On the third morning they descried some + persons at a distance on the river bank. As they were now, by calculation, + at no great distance from Fort Cass, a trading post of the American Fur + Company, they supposed these might be some of its people. A nearer + approach showed them to be Indians. Descrying a woman apart from the rest, + they landed and accosted her. She informed them that the main force of the + Crow nation, consisting of five bands, under their several chiefs, were + but about two or three miles below, on their way up along the river. This + was unpleasant tidings, but to retreat was impossible, and the river + afforded no hiding place. They continued forward, therefore, trusting + that, as Fort Cass was so near at hand, the Crows might refrain from any + depredations. + </p> + <p> + Floating down about two miles further, they came in sight of the first + band, scattered along the river bank, all well mounted; some armed with + guns, others with bows and arrows, and a few with lances. They made a + wildly picturesque appearance managing their horses with their accustomed + dexterity and grace. Nothing can be more spirited than a band of Crow + cavaliers. They are a fine race of men averaging six feet in height, lithe + and active, with hawks’ eyes and Roman noses. The latter feature is common + to the Indians on the east side of the Rocky Mountains; those on the + western side have generally straight or flat noses. + </p> + <p> + Wyeth would fain have slipped by this cavalcade unnoticed; but the river, + at this place, was not more than ninety yards across; he was perceived, + therefore, and hailed by the vagabond warriors, and, we presume, in no + very choice language; for, among their other accomplishments, the Crows + are famed for possessing a Billingsgate vocabulary of unrivalled opulence, + and for being by no means sparing of it whenever an occasion offers. + Indeed, though Indians are generally very lofty, rhetorical, and + figurative in their language at all great talks, and high ceremonials, + yet, if trappers and traders may be believed, they are the most unsavory + vagabonds in their ordinary colloquies; they make no hesitation to call a + spade a spade; and when they once undertake to call hard names, the famous + pot and kettle, of vituperating memory, are not to be compared with them + for scurrility of epithet. + </p> + <p> + To escape the infliction of any compliments of this kind, or the + launching, peradventure, of more dangerous missiles, Wyeth landed with the + best grace in his power and approached the chief of the band. It was + Arapooish, the quondam friend of Rose the outlaw, and one whom we have + already mentioned as being anxious to promote a friendly intercourse + between his tribe and the white men. He was a tall, stout man, of good + presence, and received the voyagers very graciously. His people, too, + thronged around them, and were officiously attentive after the Crow + fashion. One took a great fancy to Baptiste the Flathead boy, and a still + greater fancy to a ring on his finger, which he transposed to his own with + surprising dexterity, and then disappeared with a quick step among the + crowd. + </p> + <p> + Another was no less pleased with the Nez Perce lad, and nothing would do + but he must exchange knives with him; drawing a new knife out of the Nez + Perce’s scabbard, and putting an old one in its place. Another stepped up + and replaced this old knife with one still older, and a third helped + himself to knife, scabbard and all. It was with much difficulty that Wyeth + and his companions extricated themselves from the clutches of these + officious Crows before they were entirely plucked. + </p> + <p> + Falling down the river a little further, they came in sight of the second + band, and sheered to the opposite side, with the intention of passing + them. The Crows were not to be evaded. Some pointed their guns at the + boat, and threatened to fire; others stripped, plunged into the stream, + and came swimming across. Making a virtue of necessity, Wyeth threw a cord + to the first that came within reach, as if he wished to be drawn to the + shore. + </p> + <p> + In this way he was overhauled by every band, and by the time he and his + people came out of the busy hands of the last, they were eased of most of + their superfluities. Nothing, in all probability, but the proximity of the + American trading post, kept these land pirates from making a good prize of + the bull boat and all its contents. + </p> + <p> + These bands were in full march, equipped for war, and evidently full of + mischief. They were, in fact, the very bands that overran the land in the + autumn of 1833; partly robbed Fitzpatrick of his horses and effects; + hunted and harassed Captain Bonneville and his people; broke up their + trapping campaigns, and, in a word, drove them all out of the Crow + country. It has been suspected that they were set on to these pranks by + some of the American Fur Company, anxious to defeat the plans of their + rivals of the Rocky Mountain Company; for at this time, their competition + was at its height, and the trade of the Crow country was a great object of + rivalry. What makes this the more probable, is, that the Crows in their + depredation seemed by no means bloodthirsty, but intent chiefly on robbing + the parties of their traps and horses, thereby disabling them from + prosecuting their hunting. + </p> + <p> + We should observe that this year, the Rocky Mountain Company were pushing + their way up the rivers, and establishing rival posts near those of the + American Company; and that, at the very time of which we are speaking, + Captain Sublette was ascending the Yellowstone with a keel boat, laden + with supplies; so that there was every prospect of this eager rivalship + being carried to extremes. + </p> + <p> + The last band of Crow warriors had scarcely disappeared in the clouds of + dust they had raised, when our voyagers arrived at the mouth of the river + and glided into the current of the Yellowstone. Turning down this stream, + they made for Fort Cass, which is situated on the right bank, about three + miles below the Bighorn. On the opposite side they beheld a party of + thirty-one savages, which they soon ascertained to be Blackfeet. The width + of the river enabled them to keep at a sufficient distance, and they soon + landed at Fort Cass. This was a mere fortification against Indians; being + a stockade of about one hundred and thirty feet square, with two bastions + at the extreme corners. M’Tulloch, an agent of the American Company, was + stationed there with twenty men; two boats of fifteen tons burden were + lying here; but at certain seasons of the year a steamboat can come up to + the fort. + </p> + <p> + They had scarcely arrived, when the Blackfeet warriors made their + appearance on the opposite bank, displaying two American flags in token of + amity. They plunged into the river, swam across, and were kindly received + at the fort. They were some of the very men who had been engaged, the year + previously, in the battle at Pierre’s Hole, and a fierce-looking set of + fellows they were; tall and hawk-nosed, and very much resembling the + Crows. They professed to be on an amicable errand, to make peace with the + Crows, and set off in all haste, before night, to overtake them. Wyeth + predicted that they would lose their scalps; for he had heard the Crows + denounce vengeance on them, for having murdered two of their warriors who + had ventured among them on the faith of a treaty of peace. It is probable, + however, that this pacific errand was all a pretence, and that the real + object of the Blackfeet braves was to hang about the skirts of the Crow + band, steal their horses, and take the scalps of stragglers. + </p> + <p> + At Fort Cass, Mr. Wyeth disposed of some packages of beaver, and a + quantity of buffalo robes. On the following morning (August 18th), he once + more launched his bull boat, and proceeded down the Yellowstone, which + inclined in an east-northeast direction. The river had alluvial bottoms, + fringed with great quantities of the sweet cotton-wood, and interrupted + occasionally by “bluffs” of sandstone. The current occasionally brings + down fragments of granite and porphyry. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the day, they saw something moving on the bank among the + trees, which they mistook for game of some kind; and, being in want of + provisions, pulled toward shore. They discovered, just in time, a party of + Blackfeet, lurking in the thickets, and sheered, with all speed, to the + opposite side of the river. + </p> + <p> + After a time, they came in sight of a gang of elk. Wyeth was immediately + for pursuing them, rifle in hand, but saw evident signs of dissatisfaction + in his half-breed hunters; who considered him as trenching upon their + province, and meddling with things quite above his capacity; for these + veterans of the wilderness are exceedingly pragmatical, on points of + venery and woodcraft, and tenacious of their superiority; looking down + with infinite contempt upon all raw beginners. The two worthies, + therefore, sallied forth themselves, but after a time returned + empty-handed. They laid the blame, however, entirely on their guns; two + miserable old pieces with flint locks, which, with all their picking and + hammering, were continually apt to miss fire. These great boasters of the + wilderness, however, are very often exceeding bad shots, and fortunate it + is for them when they have old flint guns to bear the blame. + </p> + <p> + The next day they passed where a great herd of buffalo was bellowing on a + prairie. Again the Castor and Pollux of the wilderness sallied forth, and + again their flint guns were at fault, and missed fire, and nothing went + off but the buffalo. Wyeth now found there was danger of losing his dinner + if he depended upon his hunters; he took rifle in hand, therefore, and + went forth himself. In the course of an hour he returned laden with + buffalo meat, to the great mortification of the two regular hunters, who + were annoyed at being eclipsed by a greenhorn. + </p> + <p> + All hands now set to work to prepare the midday repast. A fire was made + under an immense cotton-wood tree, that overshadowed a beautiful piece of + meadow land; rich morsels of buffalo hump were soon roasting before it; in + a hearty and prolonged repast, the two unsuccessful hunters gradually + recovered from their mortification; threatened to discard their old flint + guns as soon as they should reach the settlements, and boasted more than + ever of the wonderful shots they had made, when they had guns that never + missed fire. + </p> + <p> + Having hauled up their boat to dry in the sun, previous to making their + repast, the voyagers now set it once more afloat, and proceeded on their + way. They had constructed a sail out of their old tent, which they hoisted + whenever the wind was favorable, and thus skimmed along down the stream. + Their voyage was pleasant, notwithstanding the perils by sea and land, + with which they were environed. Whenever they could they encamped on + islands for the greater security. If on the mainland, and in a dangerous + neighborhood, they would shift their camp after dark, leaving their fire + burning, dropping down the river some distance, and making no fire at + their second encampment. Sometimes they would float all night with the + current; one keeping watch and steering while the rest slept. in such + case, they would haul their boat on shore, at noon of the following day to + dry; for notwithstanding every precaution, she was gradually getting + water-soaked and rotten. + </p> + <p> + There was something pleasingly solemn and mysterious in thus floating down + these wild rivers at night. The purity of the atmosphere in these elevated + regions gave additional splendor to the stars, and heightened the + magnificence of the firmament. The occasional rush and laving of the + waters; the vague sounds from the surrounding wilderness; the dreary howl, + or rather whine of wolves from the plains; the low grunting and bellowing + of the buffalo, and the shrill neighing of the elk, struck the ear with an + effect unknown in the daytime. + </p> + <p> + The two knowing hunters had scarcely recovered from one mortification when + they were fated to experience another. As the boat was gliding swiftly + round a low promontory, thinly covered with trees, one of them gave the + alarm of Indians. The boat was instantly shoved from shore and every one + caught up his rifle. “Where are they?” cried Wyeth. + </p> + <p> + “There—there! riding on horseback!” cried one of the hunters. + </p> + <p> + “Yes; with white scarfs on!” cried the other. + </p> + <p> + Wyeth looked in the direction they pointed, but descried nothing but two + bald eagles, perched on a low dry branch beyond the thickets, and seeming, + from the rapid motion of the boat, to be moving swiftly in an opposite + direction. The detection of this blunder in the two veterans, who prided + themselves on the sureness and quickness of their sight, produced a hearty + laugh at their expense, and put an end to their vauntings. + </p> + <p> + The Yellowstone, above the confluence of the Bighorn, is a clear stream; + its waters were now gradually growing turbid, and assuming the yellow clay + color of the Missouri. The current was about four miles an hour, with + occasional rapids; some of them dangerous, but the voyagers passed them + all without accident. The banks of the river were in many places + precipitous with strata of bituminous coal. They now entered a region + abounding with buffalo—that ever-journeying animal, which moves in + countless droves from point to point of the vast wilderness; traversing + plains, pouring through the intricate defiles of mountains, swimming + rivers, ever on the move, guided on its boundless migrations by some + traditionary knowledge, like the finny tribes of the ocean, which, at + certain seasons, find their mysterious paths across the deep and revisit + the remotest shores. + </p> + <p> + These great migratory herds of buffalo have their hereditary paths and + highways, worn deep through the country, and making for the surest passes + of the mountains, and the most practicable fords of the rivers. When once + a great column is in full career, it goes straight forward, regardless of + all obstacles; those in front being impelled by the moving mass behind. At + such times they will break through a camp, trampling down everything in + their course. + </p> + <p> + It was the lot of the voyagers, one night, to encamp at one of these + buffalo landing places, and exactly on the trail. They had not been long + asleep, when they were awakened by a great bellowing, and tramping, and + the rush, and splash, and snorting of animals in the river. They had just + time to ascertain that a buffalo army was entering the river on the + opposite side, and making toward the landing place. With all haste they + moved their boat and shifted their camp, by which time the head of the + column had reached the shore, and came pressing up the bank. + </p> + <p> + It was a singular spectacle, by the uncertain moonlight, to behold this + countless throng making their way across the river, blowing, and + bellowing, and splashing. Sometimes they pass in such dense and continuous + column as to form a temporary dam across the river, the waters of which + rise and rush over their backs, or between their squadrons. The roaring + and rushing sound of one of these vast herds crossing a river, may + sometimes in a still night be heard for miles. + </p> + <p> + The voyagers now had game in profusion. They could kill as many buffaloes + as they pleased, and, occasionally, were wanton in their havoc; especially + among scattered herds, that came swimming near the boat. On one occasion, + an old buffalo bull approached so near that the half-breeds must fain try + to noose him as they would a wild horse. The noose was successfully thrown + around his head, and secured him by the horns, and they now promised + themselves ample sport. The buffalo made prodigious turmoil in the water, + bellowing, and blowing, and floundering; and they all floated down the + stream together. At length he found foothold on a sandbar, and taking to + his heels, whirled the boat after him like a whale when harpooned; so that + the hunters were obliged to cast off their rope, with which strange + head-gear the venerable bull made off to the prairies. + </p> + <p> + On the 24th of August, the bull boat emerged, with its adventurous crew, + into the broad bosom of the mighty Missouri. Here, about six miles above + the mouth of the Yellowstone, the voyagers landed at Fort Union, the + distributing post of the American Fur Company in the western country. It + was a stockaded fortress, about two hundred and twenty feet square, + pleasantly situated on a high bank. Here they were hospitably entertained + by Mr. M’Kenzie, the superintendent, and remained with him three days, + enjoying the unusual luxuries of bread, butter, milk, and cheese, for the + fort was well supplied with domestic cattle, though it had no garden. The + atmosphere of these elevated regions is said to be too dry for the culture + of vegetables; yet the voyagers, in coming down the Yellowstone, had met + with plums, grapes, cherries, and currants, and had observed ash and elm + trees. Where these grow the climate cannot be incompatible with gardening. + </p> + <p> + At Fort Union, Wyeth met with a melancholy memento of one of his men. This + was a powder-flask, which a clerk had purchased from a Blackfoot warrior. + It bore the initials of poor More, the unfortunate youth murdered the year + previously, at Jackson’s Hole, by the Blackfeet, and whose bones had been + subsequently found by Captain Bonneville. This flask had either been + passed from hand to hand of the youth, or, perhaps, had been brought to + the fort by the very savage who slew him. + </p> + <p> + As the bull boat was now nearly worn out, and altogether unfit for the + broader and more turbulent stream of the Missouri, it was given up, and a + canoe of cottonwood, about twenty feet long, fabricated by the Blackfeet, + was purchased to supply its place. In this Wyeth hoisted his sail, and + bidding adieu to the hospitable superintendent of Fort Union, turned his + prow to the east, and set off down the Missouri. + </p> + <p> + He had not proceeded many hours, before, in the evening, he came to a + large keel boat at anchor. It proved to be the boat of Captain William + Sublette, freighted with munitions for carrying on a powerful opposition + to the American Fur Company. The voyagers went on board, where they were + treated with the hearty hospitality of the wilderness, and passed a social + evening, talking over past scenes and adventures, and especially the + memorable fight at Pierre’s Hole. + </p> + <p> + Here Milton Sublette determined to give up further voyaging in the canoe, + and remain with his brother; accordingly, in the morning, the + fellow-voyagers took kind leave of each other and Wyeth continued on his + course. There was now no one on board of his boat that had ever voyaged on + the Missouri; it was, however, all plain sailing down the stream, without + any chance of missing the way. + </p> + <p> + All day the voyagers pulled gently along, and landed in the evening and + supped; then re-embarking, they suffered the canoe to float down with the + current; taking turns to watch and sleep. The night was calm and serene; + the elk kept up a continual whinnying or squealing, being the commencement + of the season when they are in heat. In the midst of the night the canoe + struck on a sand-bar, and all hands were roused by the rush and roar of + the wild waters, which broke around her. They were all obliged to jump + overboard, and work hard to get her off, which was accomplished with much + difficulty. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the following day they saw three grizzly bears at + different times along the bank. The last one was on a point of land, and + was evidently making for the river, to swim across. The two half-breed + hunters were now eager to repeat the manoeuvre of the noose; promising to + entrap Bruin, and have rare sport in strangling and drowning him. Their + only fear was, that he might take fright and return to land before they + could get between him and the shore. Holding back, therefore, until he was + fairly committed in the centre of the stream, they then pulled forward + with might and main, so as to cut off his retreat, and take him in the + rear. One of the worthies stationed himself in the bow, with the cord and + slip-noose, the other, with the Nez Perce, managed the paddles. There was + nothing further from the thoughts of honest Bruin, however, than to beat a + retreat. Just as the canoe was drawing near, he turned suddenly round and + made for it, with a horrible snarl and a tremendous show of teeth. The + affrighted hunter called to his comrades to paddle off. Scarce had they + turned the boat when the bear laid his enormous claws on the gunwale, and + attempted to get on board. The canoe was nearly overturned, and a deluge + of water came pouring over the gunwale. All was clamor, terror, and + confusion. Every one bawled out—the bear roared and snarled—one + caught up a gun; but water had rendered it useless. Others handled their + paddles more effectually, and beating old Bruin about the head and claws, + obliged him to relinquish his hold. They now plied their paddles with + might and main, the bear made the best of his way to shore, and so ended + the second exploit of the noose; the hunters determined to have no more + naval contests with grizzly bears. + </p> + <p> + The voyagers were now out of range of Crows and Black-feet; but they were + approaching the country of the Rees, or Arickaras; a tribe no less + dangerous; and who were, generally, hostile to small parties. + </p> + <p> + In passing through their country, Wyeth laid by all day, and drifted + quietly down the river at night. In this way he passed on, until he + supposed himself safely through the region of danger; when he resumed his + voyage in the open day. On the 3d of September he had landed, at midday, + to dine; and while some were making a fire, one of the hunters mounted a + high bank to look out for game. He had scarce glanced his eye round, when + he perceived horses grazing on the opposite side of the river. Crouching + down he slunk back to the camp, and reported what he had seen. On further + reconnoitering, the voyagers counted twenty-one lodges; and from the + number of horses, computed that there must be nearly a hundred Indians + encamped there. They now drew their boat, with all speed and caution, into + a thicket of water willows, and remained closely concealed all day. As + soon as the night closed in they re-embarked. The moon would rise early; + so that they had but about two hours of darkness to get past the camp. The + night, however, was cloudy, with a blustering wind. Silently, and with + muffled oars, they glided down the river, keeping close under the shore + opposite to the camp; watching its various lodges and fires, and the dark + forms passing to and fro between them. Suddenly, on turning a point of + land, they found themselves close upon a camp on their own side of the + river. It appeared that not more than one half of the band had crossed. + They were within a few yards of the shore; they saw distinctly the savages—some + standing, some lying round the fire. Horses were grazing around. Some + lodges were set up, others had been sent across the river. The red glare + of the fires upon these wild groups and harsh faces, contrasted with the + surrounding darkness, had a startling effect, as the voyagers suddenly + came upon the scene. The dogs of the camp perceived them, and barked; but + the Indians fortunately, took no heed of their clamor. Wyeth instantly + sheered his boat out into the stream; when, unluckily it struck upon a + sand-bar, and stuck fast. It was a perilous and trying situation; for he + was fixed between the two camps, and within rifle range of both. All hands + jumped out into the water, and tried to get the boat off; but as no one + dared to give the word, they could not pull together, and their labor was + in vain. In this way they labored for a long time; until Wyeth thought of + giving a signal for a general heave, by lifting his hat. The expedient + succeeded. They launched their canoe again into deep water, and getting + in, had the delight of seeing the camp fires of the savages soon fading in + the distance. + </p> + <p> + They continued under way the greater part of the night, until far beyond + all danger from this band, when they pulled to shore, and encamped. + </p> + <p> + The following day was windy, and they came near upsetting their boat in + carrying sail. Toward evening, the wind subsided and a beautiful calm + night succeeded. They floated along with the current throughout the night, + taking turns to watch and steer. The deep stillness of the night was + occasionally interrupted by the neighing of the elk, the hoarse lowing of + the buffalo, the hooting of large owls, and the screeching of the small + ones, now and then the splash of a beaver, or the gonglike sound of the + swan. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART" id="link2H_PART"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Part of their voyage was extremely tempestuous; with high winds, + </h2> + <p> + tremendous thunder, and soaking rain; and they were repeatedly in extreme + danger from drift-wood and sunken trees. On one occasion, having continued + to float at night, after the moon was down, they ran under a great snag, + or sunken tree, with dry branches above the water. These caught the mast, + while the boat swung round, broadside to the stream, and began to fill + with water. Nothing saved her from total wreck, but cutting away the mast. + She then drove down the stream, but left one of the unlucky half-breeds + clinging to the snag, like a monkey to a pole. It was necessary to run in + shore, toil up, laboriously, along the eddies and to attain some distance + above the snag, when they launched forth again into the stream and floated + down with it to his rescue. + </p> + <p> + We forbear to detail all the circumstances and adventures of upward of a + months voyage, down the windings and doublings of this vast river; in the + course of which they stopped occasionally at a post of one of the rival + fur companies, or at a government agency for an Indian tribe. Neither + shall we dwell upon the changes of climate and productions, as the + voyagers swept down from north to south, across several degrees of + latitude; arriving at the regions of oaks and sycamores; of mulberry and + basswood trees; of paroquets and wild turkeys. This is one of the + characteristics of the middle and lower part of the Missouri; but still + more so of the Mississippi, whose rapid current traverses a succession of + latitudes so as in a few days to float the voyager almost from the frozen + regions to the tropics. + </p> + <p> + The voyage of Wyeth shows the regular and unobstructed flow of the rivers, + on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, in contrast to those of the + western side; where rocks and rapids continually menace and obstruct the + voyager. We find him in a frail bark of skins, launching himself in a + stream at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, and floating down from river to + river, as they empty themselves into each other; and so he might have kept + on upward of two thousand miles, until his little bark should drift into + the ocean. At present we shall stop with him at Cantonment Leavenworth, + the frontier post of the United States; where he arrived on the 27th of + September. + </p> + <p> + Here his first care was to have his Nez Perce Indian, and his half-breed + boy, Baptiste, vaccinated. As they approached the fort, they were hailed + by the sentinel. The sight of a soldier in full array, with what appeared + to be a long knife glittering on the end of a musket, struck Baptiste with + such affright that he took to his heels, bawling for mercy at the top of + his voice. The Nez Perce would have followed him, had not Wyeth assured + him of his safety. When they underwent the operation of the lancet, the + doctor’s wife and another lady were present; both beautiful women. They + were the first white women that they had seen, and they could not keep + their eyes off of them. On returning to the boat, they recounted to their + companions all that they had observed at the fort; but were especially + eloquent about the white squaws, who, they said, were white as snow, and + more beautiful than any human being they had ever beheld. + </p> + <p> + We shall not accompany the captain any further in his Voyage; but will + simply state that he made his way to Boston, where he succeeded in + organizing an association under the name of “The Columbia River Fishing + and Trading Company,” for his original objects of a salmon fishery and a + trade in furs. A brig, the May Dacres, had been dispatched for the + Columbia with supplies; and he was now on his way to the same point, at + the head of sixty men, whom he had enlisted at St. Louis; some of whom + were experienced hunters, and all more habituated to the life of the + wilderness than his first band of “down-easters.” + </p> + <p> + We will now return to Captain Bonneville and his party, whom we left, + making up their packs and saddling their horses, in Bear River Valley. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0044" id="link2H_4_0044"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 42. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure of Captain Bonneville for the Columbia—Advance of + Wyeth—Efforts to keep the lead—Hudson’s Bay party—A + junketing—A delectable beverage—Honey and alcohol—High + carousing—The Canadian “bon vivant”—A cache—A rapid move + Wyeth and his plans—His travelling companions—Buffalo + hunting More conviviality—An interruption. +</pre> + <p> + IT was the 3d of July that Captain Bonneville set out on his second visit + to the banks of the Columbia, at the head of twenty-three men. He + travelled leisurely, to keep his horses fresh, until on the 10th of July a + scout brought word that Wyeth, with his band, was but fifty miles in the + rear, and pushing forward with all speed. This caused some bustle in the + camp; for it was important to get first to the buffalo ground to secure + provisions for the journey. As the horses were too heavily laden to travel + fast, a cache was digged, as promptly as possible, to receive all + superfluous baggage. Just as it was finished, a spring burst out of the + earth at the bottom. Another cache was therefore digged, about two miles + further on; when, as they were about to bury the effects, a line of + horsemen with pack-horses, were seen streaking over the plain, and + encamped close by. + </p> + <p> + It proved to be a small band in the service of the Hudson’s Bay Company, + under the command of a veteran Canadian; one of those petty leaders, who, + with a small party of men, and a small supply of goods, are employed to + follow up a band of Indians from one hunting ground to another, and buy up + their peltries. + </p> + <p> + Having received numerous civilities from the Hudson’s Bay Company, the + captain sent an invitation to the officers of the party to an evening + regale; and set to work to make jovial preparations. As the night air in + these elevated regions is apt to be cold, a blazing fire was soon made, + that would have done credit to a Christmas dinner, instead of a midsummer + banquet. The parties met in high good-fellowship. There was abundance of + such hunters’ fare as the neighborhood furnished; and it was all discussed + with mountain appetites. They talked over all the events of their late + campaigns; but the Canadian veteran had been unlucky in some of his + transactions; and his brow began to grow cloudy. Captain Bonneville + remarked his rising spleen, and regretted that he had no juice of the + grape to keep it down. + </p> + <p> + A man’s wit, however, is quick and inventive in the wilderness; a thought + suggested itself to the captain, how he might brew a delectable beverage. + Among his stores was a keg of honey but half exhausted. This he filled up + with alcohol, and stirred the fiery and mellifluous ingredients together. + The glorious results may readily be imagined; a happy compound of strength + and sweetness, enough to soothe the most ruffled temper and unsettle the + most solid understanding. + </p> + <p> + The beverage worked to a charm; the can circulated merrily; the first deep + draught washed out every care from the mind of the veteran; the second + elevated his spirit to the clouds. He was, in fact, a boon companion; as + all veteran Canadian traders are apt to be. He now became glorious; talked + over all his exploits, his huntings, his fightings with Indian braves, his + loves with Indian beauties; sang snatches of old French ditties, and + Canadian boat songs; drank deeper and deeper, sang louder and louder; + until, having reached a climax of drunken gayety, he gradually declined, + and at length fell fast asleep upon the ground. After a long nap he again + raised his head, imbibed another potation of the “sweet and strong,” + flashed up with another slight blaze of French gayety, and again fell + asleep. + </p> + <p> + The morning found him still upon the field of action, but in sad and + sorrowful condition; suffering the penalties of past pleasures, and + calling to mind the captain’s dulcet compound, with many a retch and + spasm. It seemed as if the honey and alcohol, which had passed so glibly + and smoothly over his tongue, were at war within his stomach; and that he + had a swarm of bees within his head. In short, so helpless and woebegone + was his plight, that his party proceeded on their march without him; the + captain promised to bring him on in safety in the after part of the day. + </p> + <p> + As soon as this party had moved off, Captain Bonneville’s men proceeded to + construct and fill their cache; and just as it was completed the party of + Wyeth was descried at a distance. In a moment all was activity to take the + road. The horses were prepared and mounted; and being lightened of a great + part of their burdens, were able to move with celerity. As to the worthy + convive of the preceding evening, he was carefully gathered up from the + hunter’s couch on which he lay, repentant and supine, and, being packed + upon one of the horses, was hurried forward with the convoy, groaning and + ejaculating at every jolt. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the day, Wyeth, being lightly mounted, rode ahead of his + party, and overtook Captain Bonneville. Their meeting was friendly and + courteous; and they discussed, sociably, their respective fortunes since + they separated on the banks of the Bighorn. Wyeth announced his intention + of establishing a small trading post at the mouth of the Portneuf, and + leaving a few men there, with a quantity of goods, to trade with the + neighboring Indians. He was compelled, in fact, to this measure, in + consequence of the refusal of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company to take a + supply of goods which he had brought out for them according to contract; + and which he had no other mode of disposing of. He further informed + Captain Bonneville that the competition between the Rocky Mountain and + American Fur Companies which had led to such nefarious stratagems and + deadly feuds, was at an end; they having divided the country between them, + allotting boundaries within which each was to trade and hunt, so as not to + interfere with the other. + </p> + <p> + In company with Wyeth were travelling two men of science; Mr. Nuttall, the + botanist; the same who ascended the Missouri at the time of the expedition + to Astoria; and Mr. Townshend, an ornithologist; from these gentlemen we + may look forward to important information concerning these interesting + regions. There were three religious missionaries, also, bound to the + shores of the Columbia, to spread the light of the Gospel in that far + wilderness. + </p> + <p> + After riding for some time together, in friendly conversation, Wyeth + returned to his party, and Captain Bonneville continued to press forward, + and to gain ground. At night he sent off the sadly sober and moralizing + chief of the Hudson’s Bay Company, under a proper escort, to rejoin his + people; his route branching off in a different direction. The latter took + a cordial leave of his host, hoping, on some future occasion, to repay his + hospitality in kind. + </p> + <p> + In the morning the captain was early on the march; throwing scouts out far + ahead, to scour hill and dale, in search of buffalo. He had confidently + expected to find game in abundance, on the head-waters of the Portneuf; + but on reaching that region, not a track was to be seen. + </p> + <p> + At length, one of the scouts, who had made a wide sweep away to the + head-waters of the Blackfoot River, discovered great herds quietly grazing + in the adjacent meadows. He set out on his return, to report his + discoveries; but night overtaking him, he was kindly and hospitably + entertained at the camp of Wyeth. As soon as day dawned he hastened to his + own camp with the welcome intelligence; and about ten o’clock of the same + morning, Captain Bonneville’s party were in the midst of the game. + </p> + <p> + The packs were scarcely off the backs of the mules, when the runners, + mounted on the fleetest horses, were full tilt after the buffalo. Others + of the men were busied erecting scaffolds, and other contrivances, for + jerking or drying meat; others were lighting great fires for the same + purpose; soon the hunters began to make their appearance, bringing in the + choicest morsels of buffalo meat; these were placed upon the scaffolds, + and the whole camp presented a scene of singular hurry and activity. At + daylight the next morning, the runners again took the field, with similar + success; and, after an interval of repose made their third and last chase, + about twelve o’clock; for by this time, Wyeth’s party was in sight. The + game being now driven into a valley, at some distance, Wyeth was obliged + to fix his camp there; but he came in the evening to pay Captain + Bonneville a visit. He was accompanied by Captain Stewart, the amateur + traveller; who had not yet sated his appetite for the adventurous life of + the wilderness. With him, also, was a Mr. M’Kay, a half-breed; son of the + unfortunate adventurer of the same name who came out in the first maritime + expedition to Astoria and was blown up in the Tonquin. His son had grown + up in the employ of the British fur companies; and was a prime hunter, and + a daring partisan. He held, moreover, a farm in the valley of the + Wallamut. + </p> + <p> + The three visitors, when they reached Captain Bonneville’s camp, were + surprised to find no one in it but himself and three men; his party being + dispersed in all directions, to make the most of their present chance for + hunting. They remonstrated with him on the imprudence of remaining with so + trifling a guard in a region so full of danger. Captain Bonneville + vindicated the policy of his conduct. He never hesitated to send out all + his hunters, when any important object was to be attained; and experience + had taught him that he was most secure when his forces were thus + distributed over the surrounding country. He then was sure that no enemy + could approach, from any direction, without being discovered by his + hunters; who have a quick eye for detecting the slightest signs of the + proximity of Indians; and who would instantly convey intelligence to the + camp. + </p> + <p> + The captain now set to work with his men, to prepare a suitable + entertainment for his guests. It was a time of plenty in the camp; of + prime hunters’ dainties; of buffalo humps, and buffalo tongues; and + roasted ribs, and broiled marrow-bones: all these were cooked in hunters’ + style; served up with a profusion known only on a plentiful hunting + ground, and discussed with an appetite that would astonish the puny + gourmands of the cities. But above all, and to give a bacchanalian grace + to this truly masculine repast, the captain produced his mellifluous keg + of home-brewed nectar, which had been so potent over the senses of the + veteran of Hudson’s Bay. Potations, pottle deep, again went round; never + did beverage excite greater glee, or meet with more rapturous + commendation. The parties were fast advancing to that happy state which + would have insured ample cause for the next day’s repentance; and the bees + were already beginning to buzz about their ears, when a messenger came + spurring to the camp with intelligence that Wyeth’s people had got + entangled in one of those deep and frightful ravines, piled with immense + fragments of volcanic rock, which gash the whole country about the + head-waters of the Blackfoot River. The revel was instantly at an end; the + keg of sweet and potent home-brewed was deserted; and the guests departed + with all speed to aid in extricating their companions from the volcanic + ravine. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0045" id="link2H_4_0045"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 43. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A rapid march—A cloud of dust—Wild horsemen—“High Jinks” + Horseracing and rifle-shooting—The game of hand—The + fishing season—Mode of fishing—Table lands—Salmon + fishers—The captain’s visit to an Indian lodge—The Indian + girl—The pocket mirror—Supper—Troubles of an evil + conscience. +</pre> + <p> + “UP and away!” is the first thought at daylight of the Indian trader, when + a rival is at hand and distance is to be gained. Early in the morning, + Captain Bonneville ordered the half dried meat to be packed upon the + horses, and leaving Wyeth and his party to hunt the scattered buffalo, + pushed off rapidly to the east, to regain the plain of the Portneuf. His + march was rugged and dangerous; through volcanic hills, broken into cliffs + and precipices; and seamed with tremendous chasms, where the rocks rose + like walls. + </p> + <p> + On the second day, however, he encamped once more in the plain, and as it + was still early some of the men strolled out to the neighboring hills. In + casting their eyes round the country, they perceived a great cloud of dust + rising in the south, and evidently approaching. Hastening back to the + camp, they gave the alarm. Preparations were instantly made to receive an + enemy; while some of the men, throwing themselves upon the “running + horses” kept for hunting, galloped off to reconnoitre. In a little while, + they made signals from a distance that all was friendly. By this time the + cloud of dust had swept on as if hurried along by a blast, and a band of + wild horsemen came dashing at full leap into the camp, yelling and + whooping like so many maniacs. Their dresses, their accoutrements, their + mode of riding, and their uncouth clamor, made them seem a party of + savages arrayed for war; but they proved to be principally half-breeds, + and white men grown savage in the wilderness, who were employed as + trappers and hunters in the service of the Hudson’s Bay Company. + </p> + <p> + Here was again “high jinks” in the camp. Captain Bonneville’s men hailed + these wild scamperers as congenial spirits, or rather as the very game + birds of their class. They entertained them with the hospitality of + mountaineers, feasting them at every fire. At first, there were mutual + details of adventures and exploits, and broad joking mingled with peals of + laughter. Then came on boasting of the comparative merits of horses and + rifles, which soon engrossed every tongue. This naturally led to racing, + and shooting at a mark; one trial of speed and skill succeeded another, + shouts and acclamations rose from the victorious parties, fierce + altercations succeeded, and a general melee was about to take place, when + suddenly the attention of the quarrellers was arrested by a strange kind + of Indian chant or chorus, that seemed to operate upon them as a charm. + Their fury was at an end; a tacit reconciliation succeeded and the ideas + of the whole mongrel crowd whites, half-breeds and squaws were turned in a + new direction. They all formed into groups and taking their places at the + several fires, prepared for one of the most exciting amusements of the Nez + Perces and the other tribes of the Far West. + </p> + <p> + The choral chant, in fact, which had thus acted as a charm, was a kind of + wild accompaniment to the favorite Indian game of “Hand.” This is played + by two parties drawn out in opposite platoons before a blazing fire. It is + in some respects like the old game of passing the ring or the button, and + detecting the hand which holds it. In the present game, the object hidden, + or the cache as it is called by the trappers, is a small splint of wood, + or other diminutive article that may be concealed in the closed hand. This + is passed backward and forward among the party “in hand,” while the party + “out of hand” guess where it is concealed. To heighten the excitement and + confuse the guessers, a number of dry poles are laid before each platoon, + upon which the members of the party “in hand” beat furiously with short + staves, keeping time to the choral chant already mentioned, which waxes + fast and furious as the game proceeds. As large bets are staked upon the + game, the excitement is prodigious. Each party in turn bursts out in full + chorus, beating, and yelling, and working themselves up into such a heat + that the perspiration rolls down their naked shoulders, even in the cold + of a winter night. The bets are doubled and trebled as the game advances, + the mental excitement increases almost to madness, and all the worldly + effects of the gamblers are often hazarded upon the position of a straw. + </p> + <p> + These gambling games were kept up throughout the night; every fire glared + upon a group that looked like a crew of maniacs at their frantic orgies, + and the scene would have been kept up throughout the succeeding day, had + not Captain Bonneville interposed his authority, and, at the usual hour, + issued his marching orders. + </p> + <p> + Proceeding down the course of Snake River, the hunters regularly returned + to camp in the evening laden with wild geese, which were yet scarcely able + to fly, and were easily caught in great numbers. It was now the season of + the annual fish-feast, with which the Indians in these parts celebrate the + first appearance of the salmon in this river. These fish are taken in + great numbers at the numerous falls of about four feet pitch. The Indians + flank the shallow water just below, and spear them as they attempt to + pass. In wide parts of the river, also, they place a sort of + chevaux-de-frize, or fence, of poles interwoven with withes, and forming + an angle in the middle of the current, where a small opening is left for + the salmon to pass. Around this opening the Indians station themselves on + small rafts, and ply their spears with great success. + </p> + <p> + The table lands so common in this region have a sandy soil, inconsiderable + in depth, and covered with sage, or more properly speaking, wormwood. + Below this is a level stratum of rock, riven occasionally by frightful + chasms. The whole plain rises as it approaches the river, and terminates + with high and broken cliffs, difficult to pass, and in many places so + precipitous that it is impossible, for days together, to get down to the + water’s edge, to give drink to the horses. This obliges the traveller + occasionally to abandon the vicinity of the river, and make a wide sweep + into the interior. + </p> + <p> + It was now far in the month of July, and the party suffered extremely from + sultry weather and dusty travelling. The flies and gnats, too, were + extremely troublesome to the horses; especially when keeping along the + edge of the river where it runs between low sand-banks. Whenever the + travellers encamped in the afternoon, the horses retired to the gravelly + shores and remained there, without attempting to feed until the cool of + the evening. As to the travellers, they plunged into the clear and cool + current, to wash away the dust of the road and refresh themselves after + the heat of the day. The nights were always cool and pleasant. + </p> + <p> + At one place where they encamped for some time, the river was nearly five + hundred yards wide, and studded with grassy islands, adorned with groves + of willow and cotton-wood. Here the Indians were assembled in great + numbers, and had barricaded the channels between the islands, to enable + them to spear the salmon with greater facility. They were a timid race, + and seemed unaccustomed to the sight of white men. Entering one of the + huts, Captain Bonneville found the inhabitants just proceeding to cook a + fine salmon. It is put into a pot filled with cold water, and hung over + the fire. The moment the water begins to boil, the fish is considered + cooked. + </p> + <p> + Taking his seat unceremoniously, and lighting his pipe, the captain + awaited the cooking of the fish, intending to invite himself to the + repast. The owner of the hut seemed to take his intrusion in good part. + While conversing with him the captain felt something move behind him, and + turning round and removing a few skins and old buffalo robes, discovered a + young girl, about fourteen years of age, crouched beneath, who directed + her large black eyes full in his face, and continued to gaze in mute + surprise and terror. The captain endeavored to dispel her fears, and + drawing a bright ribbon from his pocket, attempted repeatedly to tie it + round her neck. She jerked back at each attempt, uttering a sound very + much like a snarl; nor could all the blandishments of the captain, albeit + a pleasant, good-looking, and somewhat gallant man, succeed in conquering + the shyness of the savage little beauty. His attentions were now turned + toward the parents, whom he presented with an awl and a little tobacco, + and having thus secured their good-will, continued to smoke his pipe, and + watch the salmon. While thus seated near the threshold, an urchin of the + family approached the door, but catching a sight of the strange guest, ran + off screaming with terror and ensconced himself behind the long straw at + the back of the hut. + </p> + <p> + Desirous to dispel entirely this timidity, and to open a trade with the + simple inhabitants of the hut, who, he did not doubt, had furs somewhere + concealed, the captain now drew forth that grand lure in the eyes of a + savage, a pocket mirror. The sight of it was irresistible. After examining + it for a long time with wonder and admiration, they produced a musk-rat + skin, and offered it in exchange. The captain shook his head; but + purchased the skin for a couple of buttons—superfluous trinkets! as + the worthy lord of the hovel had neither coat nor breeches on which to + place them. + </p> + <p> + The mirror still continued the great object of desire, particularly in the + eyes of the old housewife, who produced a pot of parched flour and a + string of biscuit roots. These procured her some trifle in return; but + could not command the purchase of the mirror. The salmon being now + completely cooked, they all joined heartily in supper. A bounteous portion + was deposited before the captain by the old woman, upon some fresh grass, + which served instead of a platter; and never had he tasted a salmon boiled + so completely to his fancy. + </p> + <p> + Supper being over, the captain lighted his pipe and passed it to his host, + who, inhaling the smoke, puffed it through his nostrils so assiduously, + that in a little while his head manifested signs of confusion and + dizziness. Being satisfied, by this time, of the kindly and companionable + qualities of the captain, he became easy and communicative; and at length + hinted something about exchanging beaver skins for horses. The captain at + once offered to dispose of his steed, which stood fastened at the door. + The bargain was soon concluded, whereupon the Indian, removing a pile of + bushes under which his valuables were concealed, drew forth the number of + skins agreed upon as the price. + </p> + <p> + Shortly afterward, some of the captain’s people coming up, he ordered + another horse to be saddled, and, mounting it, took his departure from the + hut, after distributing a few trifling presents among its simple + inhabitants. During all the time of his visit, the little Indian girl had + kept her large black eyes fixed upon him, almost without winking, watching + every movement with awe and wonder; and as he rode off, remained gazing + after him, motionless as a statue. Her father, however, delighted with his + new acquaintance, mounted his newly purchased horse, and followed in the + train of the captain, to whom he continued to be a faithful and useful + adherent during his sojourn in the neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + The cowardly effects of an evil conscience were evidenced in the conduct + of one of the captain’s men, who had been in the California expedition. + During all their intercourse with the harmless people of this place, he + had manifested uneasiness and anxiety. While his companions mingled freely + and joyously with the natives, he went about with a restless, suspicious + look; scrutinizing every painted form and face and starting often at the + sudden approach of some meek and inoffensive savage, who regarded him with + reverence as a superior being. Yet this was ordinarily a bold fellow, who + never flinched from danger, nor turned pale at the prospect of a battle. + At length he requested permission of Captain Bonneville to keep out of the + way of these people entirely. Their striking resemblance, he said, to the + people of Ogden’s River, made him continually fear that some among them + might have seen him in that expedition; and might seek an opportunity of + revenge. Ever after this, while they remained in this neighborhood, he + would skulk out of the way and keep aloof when any of the native + inhabitants approached. “Such,” observed Captain Bonneville, “is the + effect of self-reproach, even upon the roving trapper in the wilderness, + who has little else to fear than the stings of his own guilty conscience.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0046" id="link2H_4_0046"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 44. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Outfit of a trapper—Risks to which he is subjected— + Partnership of trappers—Enmity of Indians—Distant smoke—A + country on fire—Gun Greek—Grand Rond—Fine pastures— + Perplexities in a smoky country—Conflagration of forests. +</pre> + <p> + IT had been the intention of Captain Bonneville, in descending along Snake + River, to scatter his trappers upon the smaller streams. In this way a + range of country is trapped by small detachments from a main body. The + outfit of a trapper is generally a rifle, a pound of powder, and four + pounds of lead, with a bullet mould, seven traps, an axe, a hatchet, a + knife and awl, a camp kettle, two blankets, and, where supplies are + plenty, seven pounds of flour. He has, generally, two or three horses, to + carry himself and his baggage and peltries. Two trappers commonly go + together, for the purposes of mutual assistance and support; a larger + party could not easily escape the eyes of the Indians. It is a service of + peril, and even more so at present than formerly, for the Indians, since + they have got into the habit of trafficking peltries with the traders, + have learned the value of the beaver, and look upon the trappers as + poachers, who are filching the riches from their streams, and interfering + with their market. They make no hesitation, therefore, to murder the + solitary trapper, and thus destroy a competitor, while they possess + themselves of his spoils. It is with regret we add, too, that this + hostility has in many cases been instigated by traders, desirous of + injuring their rivals, but who have themselves often reaped the fruits of + the mischief they have sown. + </p> + <p> + When two trappers undertake any considerable stream, their mode of + proceeding is, to hide their horses in some lonely glen, where they can + graze unobserved. They then build a small hut, dig out a canoe from a + cotton-wood tree, and in this poke along shore silently, in the evening, + and set their traps. These they revisit in the same silent way at + daybreak. When they take any beaver they bring it home, skin it, stretch + the skins on sticks to dry, and feast upon the flesh. The body, hung up + before the fire, turns by its own weight, and is roasted in a superior + style; the tail is the trapper’s tidbit; it is cut off, put on the end of + a stick, and toasted, and is considered even a greater dainty than the + tongue or the marrow-bone of a buffalo. + </p> + <p> + With all their silence and caution, however, the poor trappers cannot + always escape their hawk-eyed enemies. Their trail has been discovered, + perhaps, and followed up for many a mile; or their smoke has been seen + curling up out of the secret glen, or has been scented by the savages, + whose sense of smell is almost as acute as that of sight. Sometimes they + are pounced upon when in the act of setting their traps; at other times, + they are roused from their sleep by the horrid war-whoop; or, perhaps, + have a bullet or an arrow whistling about their ears, in the midst of one + of their beaver banquets. In this way they are picked off, from time to + time, and nothing is known of them, until, perchance, their bones are + found bleaching in some lonely ravine, or on the banks of some nameless + stream, which from that time is called after them. Many of the small + streams beyond the mountains thus perpetuate the names of unfortunate + trappers that have been murdered on their banks. + </p> + <p> + A knowledge of these dangers deterred Captain Bonneville, in the present + instance, from detaching small parties of trappers as he had intended; for + his scouts brought him word that formidable bands of the Banneck Indians + were lying on the Boisee and Payette Rivers, at no great distance, so that + they would be apt to detect and cut off any stragglers. It behooved him, + also, to keep his party together, to guard against any predatory attack + upon the main body; he continued on his way, therefore, without dividing + his forces. And fortunate it was that he did so; for in a little while he + encountered one of the phenomena of the western wilds that would + effectually have prevented his scattered people from finding each other + again. In a word, it was the season of setting fire to the prairies. As he + advanced he began to perceive great clouds of smoke at a distance, rising + by degrees, and spreading over the whole face of the country. The + atmosphere became dry and surcharged with murky vapor, parching to the + skin, and irritating to the eyes. When travelling among the hills, they + could scarcely discern objects at the distance of a few paces; indeed, the + least exertion of the vision was painful. There was evidently some vast + conflagration in the direction toward which they were proceeding; it was + as yet at a great distance, and during the day they could only see the + smoke rising in larger and denser volumes, and rolling forth in an immense + canopy. At night the skies were all glowing with the reflection of unseen + fires, hanging in an immense body of lurid light high above the horizon. + </p> + <p> + Having reached Gun Creek, an important stream coming from the left, + Captain Bonneville turned up its course, to traverse the mountain and + avoid the great bend of Snake River. Being now out of the range of the + Bannecks, he sent out his people in all directions to hunt the antelope + for present supplies; keeping the dried meats for places where game might + be scarce. + </p> + <p> + During four days that the party were ascending Gun Creek, the smoke + continued to increase so rapidly that it was impossible to distinguish the + face of the country and ascertain landmarks. Fortunately, the travellers + fell upon an Indian trail which led them to the head-waters of the Fourche + de Glace or Ice River, sometimes called the Grand Rond. Here they found + all the plains and valleys wrapped in one vast conflagration; which swept + over the long grass in billows of flame, shot up every bush and tree, rose + in great columns from the groves, and set up clouds of smoke that darkened + the atmosphere. To avoid this sea of fire, the travellers had to pursue + their course close along the foot of the mountains; but the irritation + from the smoke continued to be tormenting. + </p> + <p> + The country about the head-waters of the Grand Rond spreads out into broad + and level prairies, extremely fertile, and watered by mountain springs and + rivulets. These prairies are resorted to by small bands of the Skynses, to + pasture their horses, as well as to banquets upon the salmon which abound + in the neighboring waters. They take these fish in great quantities and + without the least difficulty; simply taking them out of the water with + their hands, as they flounder and struggle in the numerous long shoals of + the principal streams. At the time the travellers passed over these + prairies, some of the narrow, deep streams by which they were intersected + were completely choked with salmon, which they took in great numbers. The + wolves and bears frequent these streams at this season, to avail + themselves of these great fisheries. + </p> + <p> + The travellers continued, for many days, to experience great difficulties + and discomforts from this wide conflagration, which seemed to embrace the + whole wilderness. The sun was for a great part of the time obscured by the + smoke, and the loftiest mountains were hidden from view. Blundering along + in this region of mist and uncertainty, they were frequently obliged to + make long circuits, to avoid obstacles which they could not perceive until + close upon them. The Indian trails were their safest guides, for though + they sometimes appeared to lead them out of their direct course, they + always conducted them to the passes. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th of August, they reached the head of the Way-lee-way River. + Here, in a valley of the mountains through which this head-water makes its + way, they found a band of the Skynses, who were extremely sociable, and + appeared to be well disposed, and as they spoke the Nez Perce language, an + intercourse was easily kept up with them. + </p> + <p> + In the pastures on the bank of this stream, Captain Bonneville encamped + for a time, for the purpose of recruiting the strength of his horses. + Scouts were now sent out to explore the surrounding country, and search + for a convenient pass through the mountains toward the Wallamut or + Multnomah. After an absence of twenty days they returned weary and + discouraged. They had been harassed and perplexed in rugged mountain + defiles, where their progress was continually impeded by rocks and + precipices. Often they had been obliged to travel along the edges of + frightful ravines, where a false step would have been fatal. In one of + these passes, a horse fell from the brink of a precipice, and would have + been dashed to pieces had he not lodged among the branches of a tree, from + which he was extricated with great difficulty. These, however, were not + the worst of their difficulties and perils. The great conflagration of the + country, which had harassed the main party in its march, was still more + awful the further this exploring party proceeded. The flames which swept + rapidly over the light vegetation of the prairies assumed a fiercer + character and took a stronger hold amid the wooded glens and ravines of + the mountains. Some of the deep gorges and defiles sent up sheets of + flame, and clouds of lurid smoke, and sparks and cinders that in the night + made them resemble the craters of volcanoes. The groves and forests, too, + which crowned the cliffs, shot up their towering columns of fire, and + added to the furnace glow of the mountains. With these stupendous sights + were combined the rushing blasts caused by the rarefied air, which roared + and howled through the narrow glens, and whirled forth the smoke and + flames in impetuous wreaths. Ever and anon, too, was heard the crash of + falling trees, sometimes tumbling from crags and precipices, with + tremendous sounds. + </p> + <p> + In the daytime, the mountains were wrapped in smoke so dense and blinding, + that the explorers, if by chance they separated, could only find each + other by shouting. Often, too, they had to grope their way through the yet + burning forests, in constant peril from the limbs and trunks of trees, + which frequently fell across their path. At length they gave up the + attempt to find a pass as hopeless, under actual circumstances, and made + their way back to the camp to report their failure. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0047" id="link2H_4_0047"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 45. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Skynses—Their traffic—Hunting—Food—Horses—A horse- + race—Devotional feeling of the Skynses, Nez Perces and + Flatheads—Prayers—Exhortations—A preacher on horseback + Effect of religion on the manners of the tribes—A new + light. +</pre> + <p> + DURING the absence of this detachment, a sociable intercourse had been + kept up between the main party and the Skynses, who had removed into the + neighborhood of the camp. These people dwell about the waters of the + Way-lee-way and the adjacent country, and trade regularly with the + Hudson’s Bay Company; generally giving horses in exchange for the articles + of which they stand in need. They bring beaver skins, also, to the trading + posts; not procured by trapping, but by a course of internal traffic with + the shy and ignorant Shoshokoes and Too-el-icans, who keep in distant and + unfrequented parts of the country, and will not venture near the trading + houses. The Skynses hunt the deer and elk occasionally; and depend, for a + part of the year, on fishing. Their main subsistence, however, is upon + roots, especially the kamash. This bulbous root is said to be of a + delicious flavor, and highly nutritious. The women dig it up in great + quantities, steam it, and deposit it in caches for winter provisions. It + grows spontaneously, and absolutely covers the plains. + </p> + <p> + This tribe was comfortably clad and equipped. They had a few rifles among + them, and were extremely desirous of bartering for those of Captain + Bonneville’s men; offering a couple of good running horses for a light + rifle. Their first-rate horses, however, were not to be procured from them + on any terms. They almost invariably use ponies; but of a breed infinitely + superior to any in the United States. They are fond of trying their speed + and bottom, and of betting upon them. + </p> + <p> + As Captain Bonneville was desirous of judging of the comparative merit of + their horses, he purchased one of their racers, and had a trial of speed + between that, an American, and a Shoshonie, which were supposed to be well + matched. The race-course was for the distance of one mile and a half out + and back. For the first half mile the American took the lead by a few + hands; but, losing his wind, soon fell far behind; leaving the Shoshonie + and Skynse to contend together. For a mile and a half they went head and + head: but at the turn the Skynse took the lead and won the race with great + ease, scarce drawing a quick breath when all was over. + </p> + <p> + The Skynses, like the Nez Perces and the Flatheads, have a strong + devotional feeling, which has been successfully cultivated by some of the + resident personages of the Hudson’s Bay Company. Sunday is invariably kept + sacred among these tribes. They will not raise their camp on that day, + unless in extreme cases of danger or hunger: neither will they hunt, nor + fish, nor trade, nor perform any kind of labor on that day. A part of it + is passed in prayer and religious ceremonies. Some chief, who is generally + at the same time what is called a “medicine man,” assembles the community. + After invoking blessings from the Deity, he addresses the assemblage, + exhorting them to good conduct; to be diligent in providing for their + families; to abstain from lying and stealing; to avoid quarrelling or + cheating in their play, and to be just and hospitable to all strangers who + may be among them. Prayers and exhortations are also made, early in the + morning, on week days. Sometimes, all this is done by the chief from + horseback; moving slowly about the camp, with his hat on, and uttering his + exhortations with a loud voice. On all occasions, the bystanders listen + with profound attention; and at the end of every sentence respond one word + in unison, apparently equivalent to an amen. While these prayers and + exhortations are going on, every employment in the camp is suspended. If + an Indian is riding by the place, he dismounts, holds his horse, and + attends with reverence until all is done. When the chief has finished his + prayer or exhortation, he says, “I have done,” upon which there is a + general exclamation in unison. With these religious services, probably + derived from the white men, the tribes above-mentioned mingle some of + their old Indian ceremonials, such as dancing to the cadence of a song or + ballad, which is generally done in a large lodge provided for the purpose. + Besides Sundays, they likewise observe the cardinal holidays of the Roman + Catholic Church. + </p> + <p> + Whoever has introduced these simple forms of religions among these poor + savages, has evidently understood their characters and capacities, and + effected a great melioration of their manners. Of this we speak not merely + from the testimony of Captain Bonneville, but likewise from that of Mr. + Wyeth, who passed some months in a travelling camp of the Flatheads. + “During the time I have been with them,” says he, “I have never known an + instance of theft among them: the least thing, even to a bead or pin, is + brought to you, if found; and often, things that have been thrown away. + Neither have I known any quarrelling, nor lying. This absence of all + quarrelling the more surprised me, when I came to see the various + occasions that would have given rise to it among the whites: the crowding + together of from twelve to eighteen hundred horses, which have to be + driven into camp at night, to be picketed, to be packed in the morning; + the gathering of fuel in places where it is extremely scanty. All this, + however, is done without confusion or disturbance. + </p> + <p> + “They have a mild, playful, laughing disposition; and this is portrayed in + their countenances. They are polite, and unobtrusive. When one speaks, the + rest pay strict attention: when he is done, another assents by ‘yes,’ or + dissents by ‘no;’ and then states his reasons, which are listened to with + equal attention. Even the children are more peaceable than any other + children. I never heard an angry word among them, nor any quarrelling; + although there were, at least, five hundred of them together, and + continually at play. With all this quietness of spirit, they are brave + when put to the test; and are an overmatch for an equal number of + Blackfeet.” + </p> + <p> + The foregoing observations, though gathered from Mr. Wyeth as relative to + the Flatheads, apply, in the main, to the Skynses also. Captain + Bonneville, during his sojourn with the latter, took constant occasion, in + conversing with their principal men, to encourage them in the cultivation + of moral and religious habits; drawing a comparison between their + peaceable and comfortable course of life and that of other tribes, and + attributing it to their superior sense of morality and religion. He + frequently attended their religious services, with his people; always + enjoining on the latter the most reverential deportment; and he observed + that the poor Indians were always pleased to have the white men present. + </p> + <p> + The disposition of these tribes is evidently favorable to a considerable + degree of civilization. A few farmers settled among them might lead them, + Captain Bonneville thinks, to till the earth and cultivate grain; the + country of the Skynses and Nez Perces is admirably adapted for the raising + of cattle. A Christian missionary or two, and some trifling assistance + from government, to protect them from the predatory and warlike tribes, + might lay the foundation of a Christian people in the midst of the great + western wilderness, who would “wear the Americans near their hearts.” + </p> + <p> + We must not omit to observe, however, in qualification of the sanctity of + this Sabbath in the wilderness, that these tribes who are all ardently + addicted to gambling and horseracing, make Sunday a peculiar day for + recreations of the kind, not deeming them in any wise out of season. After + prayers and pious ceremonies are over, there is scarce an hour in the day, + says Captain Bonneville, that you do not see several horses racing at full + speed; and in every corner of the camp are groups of gamblers, ready to + stake everything upon the all-absorbing game of hand. The Indians, says + Wyeth, appear to enjoy their amusements with more zest than the whites. + They are great gamblers; and in proportion to their means, play bolder and + bet higher than white men. + </p> + <p> + The cultivation of the religious feeling, above noted, among the savages, + has been at times a convenient policy with some of the more knowing + traders; who have derived great credit and influence among them by being + considered “medicine men;” that is, men gifted with mysterious knowledge. + This feeling is also at times played upon by religious charlatans, who are + to be found in savage as well as civilized life. One of these was noted by + Wyeth, during his sojourn among the Flat-heads. A new great man, says he, + is rising in the camp, who aims at power and sway. He covers his designs + under the ample cloak of religion; inculcating some new doctrines and + ceremonials among those who are more simple than himself. He has already + made proselytes of one-fifth of the camp; beginning by working on the + women, the children, and the weak-minded. His followers are all dancing on + the plain, to their own vocal music. The more knowing ones of the tribe + look on and laugh; thinking it all too foolish to do harm; but they will + soon find that women, children, and fools, form a large majority of every + community, and they will have, eventually, to follow the new light, or be + considered among the profane. As soon as a preacher or pseudo prophet of + the kind gets followers enough, he either takes command of the tribe, or + branches off and sets up an independent chief and “medicine man.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0048" id="link2H_4_0048"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 46. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Scarcity in the camp—Refusal of supplies by the Hudson’s + Bay Company—Conduct of the Indians—A hungry retreat—John + Day’s River—The Blue Mountains—Salmon fishing on Snake + River Messengers from the Crow country—Bear River Valley— + immense migration of buffalo—Danger of buffalo hunting—A + wounded Indian—Eutaw Indians—A “surround” of antelopes. +</pre> + <p> + PROVISIONS were now growing scanty in the camp, and Captain Bonneville + found it necessary to seek a new neighborhood. Taking leave, therefore, of + his friends, the Skynses, he set off to the westward, and, crossing a low + range of mountains, encamped on the head-waters of the Ottolais. Being now + within thirty miles of Fort Wallah-Wallah, the trading post of the + Hudson’s Bay Company, he sent a small detachment of men thither to + purchase corn for the subsistence of his party. The men were well received + at the fort; but all supplies for their camp were peremptorily refused. + Tempting offers were made them, however, if they would leave their present + employ, and enter into the service of the company; but they were not to be + seduced. + </p> + <p> + When Captain Bonneville saw his messengers return empty-handed, he ordered + an instant move, for there was imminent danger of famine. He pushed + forward down the course of the Ottolais, which runs diagonal to the + Columbia, and falls into it about fifty miles below the Wallah-Wallah. His + route lay through a beautiful undulating country, covered with horses + belonging to the Skynses, who sent them there for pasturage. + </p> + <p> + On reaching the Columbia, Captain Bonneville hoped to open a trade with + the natives, for fish and other provisions, but to his surprise they kept + aloof, and even hid themselves on his approach. He soon discovered that + they were under the influence of the Hudson’s Bay Company, who had + forbidden them to trade, or hold any communion with him. He proceeded + along the Columbia, but it was everywhere the same; not an article of + provisions was to be obtained from the natives, and he was at length + obliged to kill a couple of his horses to sustain his famishing people. He + now came to a halt, and consulted what was to be done. The broad and + beautiful Columbia lay before them, smooth and unruffled as a mirror; a + little more journeying would take them to its lower region; to the noble + valley of the Wallamut, their projected winter quarters. To advance under + present circumstances would be to court starvation. The resources of the + country were locked against them, by the influence of a jealous and + powerful monopoly. If they reached the Wallamut, they could scarcely hope + to obtain sufficient supplies for the winter; if they lingered any longer + in the country the snows would gather upon the mountains and cut off their + retreat. By hastening their return, they would be able to reach the Blue + Mountains just in time to find the elk, the deer, and the bighorn; and + after they had supplied themselves with provisions, they might push + through the mountains before they were entirely blocked by snow. + Influenced by these considerations, Captain Bonneville reluctantly turned + his back a second time on the Columbia, and set off for the Blue + Mountains. He took his course up John Day’s River, so called from one of + the hunters in the original Astorian enterprise. As famine was at his + heels, he travelled fast, and reached the mountains by the 1st of October. + He entered by the opening made by John Day’s River; it was a rugged and + difficult defile, but he and his men had become accustomed to hard + scrambles of the kind. Fortunately, the September rains had extinguished + the fires which recently spread over these regions; and the mountains, no + longer wrapped in smoke, now revealed all their grandeur and sublimity to + the eye. + </p> + <p> + They were disappointed in their expectation of finding abundant game in + the mountains; large bands of the natives had passed through, returning + from their fishing expeditions, and had driven all the game before them. + It was only now and then that the hunters could bring in sufficient to + keep the party from starvation. + </p> + <p> + To add to their distress, they mistook their route, and wandered for ten + days among high and bald hills of clay. At length, after much perplexity, + they made their way to the banks of Snake River, following the course of + which, they were sure to reach their place of destination. + </p> + <p> + It was the 20th of October when they found themselves once more upon this + noted stream. The Shoshokoes, whom they had met with in such scanty + numbers on their journey down the river, now absolutely thronged its banks + to profit by the abundance of salmon, and lay up a stock for winter + provisions. Scaffolds were everywhere erected, and immense quantities of + fish drying upon them. At this season of the year, however, the salmon are + extremely poor, and the travellers needed their keen sauce of hunger to + give them a relish. + </p> + <p> + In some places the shores were completely covered with a stratum of dead + salmon, exhausted in ascending the river, or destroyed at the falls; the + fetid odor of which tainted the air. + </p> + <p> + It was not until the travellers reached the head-waters of the Portneuf + that they really found themselves in a region of abundance. Here the + buffaloes were in immense herds; and here they remained for three days, + slaying and cooking, and feasting, and indemnifying themselves by an + enormous carnival, for a long and hungry Lent. Their horses, too, found + good pasturage, and enjoyed a little rest after a severe spell of hard + travelling. + </p> + <p> + During this period, two horsemen arrived at the camp, who proved to be + messengers sent express for supplies from Montero’s party; which had been + sent to beat up the Crow country and the Black Hills, and to winter on the + Arkansas. They reported that all was well with the party, but that they + had not been able to accomplish the whole of their mission, and were still + in the Crow country, where they should remain until joined by Captain + Bonneville in the spring. The captain retained the messengers with him + until the 17th of November, when, having reached the caches on Bear River, + and procured thence the required supplies, he sent them back to their + party; appointing a rendezvous toward the last of June following, on the + forks of Wind River Valley, in the Crow country. + </p> + <p> + He now remained several days encamped near the caches, and having + discovered a small band of Shoshonies in his neighborhood, purchased from + them lodges, furs, and other articles of winter comfort, and arranged with + them to encamp together during the winter. + </p> + <p> + The place designed by the captain for the wintering ground was on the + upper part of Bear River, some distance off. He delayed approaching it as + long as possible, in order to avoid driving off the buffaloes, which would + be needed for winter provisions. He accordingly moved forward but slowly, + merely as the want of game and grass obliged him to shift his position. + The weather had already become extremely cold, and the snow lay to a + considerable depth. To enable the horses to carry as much dried meat as + possible, he caused a cache to be made, in which all the baggage that + could be spared was deposited. This done, the party continued to move + slowly toward their winter quarters. + </p> + <p> + They were not doomed, however, to suffer from scarcity during the present + winter. The people upon Snake River having chased off the buffaloes before + the snow had become deep, immense herds now came trooping over the + mountains; forming dark masses on their sides, from which their + deep-mouthed bellowing sounded like the low peals and mutterings from a + gathering thunder-cloud. In effect, the cloud broke, and down came the + torrent thundering into the valley. It is utterly impossible, according to + Captain Bonneville, to convey an idea of the effect produced by the sight + of such countless throngs of animals of such bulk and spirit, all rushing + forward as if swept on by a whirlwind. + </p> + <p> + The long privation which the travellers had suffered gave uncommon ardor + to their present hunting. One of the Indians attached to the party, + finding himself on horseback in the midst of the buffaloes, without either + rifle, or bow and arrows, dashed after a fine cow that was passing close + by him, and plunged his knife into her side with such lucky aim as to + bring her to the ground. It was a daring deed; but hunger had made him + almost desperate. + </p> + <p> + The buffaloes are sometimes tenacious of life, and must be wounded in + particular parts. A ball striking the shagged frontlet of a bull produces + no other effect than a toss of the head and greater exasperation; on the + contrary, a ball striking the forehead of a cow is fatal. Several + instances occurred during this great hunting bout, of bulls fighting + furiously after having received mortal wounds. Wyeth, also, was witness to + an instance of the kind while encamped with Indians. During a grand hunt + of the buffaloes, one of the Indians pressed a bull so closely that the + animal turned suddenly on him. His horse stopped short, or started back, + and threw him. Before he could rise the bull rushed furiously upon him, + and gored him in the chest so that his breath came out at the aperture. He + was conveyed back to the camp, and his wound was dressed. Giving himself + up for slain, he called round him his friends, and made his will by word + of mouth. It was something like a death chant, and at the end of every + sentence those around responded in concord. He appeared no ways + intimidated by the approach of death. “I think,” adds Wyeth, “the Indians + die better than the white men; perhaps from having less fear about the + future.” + </p> + <p> + The buffaloes may be approached very near, if the hunter keeps to the + leeward; but they are quick of scent, and will take the alarm and move off + from a party of hunters to the windward, even when two miles distant. + </p> + <p> + The vast herds which had poured down into the Bear River Valley were now + snow-bound, and remained in the neighborhood of the camp throughout the + winter. This furnished the trappers and their Indian friends a perpetual + carnival; so that, to slay and eat seemed to be the main occupations of + the day. It is astonishing what loads of meat it requires to cope with the + appetite of a hunting camp. + </p> + <p> + The ravens and wolves soon came in for their share of the good cheer. + These constant attendants of the hunter gathered in vast numbers as the + winter advanced. They might be completely out of sight, but at the report + of a gun, flights of ravens would immediately be seen hovering in the air, + no one knew whence they came; while the sharp visages of the wolves would + peep down from the brow of every hill, waiting for the hunter’s departure + to pounce upon the carcass. + </p> + <p> + Besides the buffaloes, there were other neighbors snow-bound in the + valley, whose presence did not promise to be so advantageous. This was a + band of Eutaw Indians who were encamped higher up on the river. They are a + poor tribe that, in a scale of the various tribes inhabiting these + regions, would rank between the Shoshonies and the Shoshokoes or Root + Diggers; though more bold and warlike than the latter. They have but few + rifles among them, and are generally armed with bows and arrows. + </p> + <p> + As this band and the Shoshonies were at deadly feud, on account of old + grievances, and as neither party stood in awe of the other, it was feared + some bloody scenes might ensue. Captain Bonneville, therefore, undertook + the office of pacificator, and sent to the Eutaw chiefs, inviting them to + a friendly smoke, in order to bring about a reconciliation. His invitation + was proudly declined; whereupon he went to them in person, and succeeded + in effecting a suspension of hostilities until the chiefs of the two + tribes could meet in council. The braves of the two rival camps sullenly + acquiesced in the arrangement. They would take their seats upon the hill + tops, and watch their quondam enemies hunting the buffalo in the plain + below, and evidently repine that their hands were tied up from a skirmish. + The worthy captain, however, succeeded in carrying through his benevolent + mediation. The chiefs met; the amicable pipe was smoked, the hatchet + buried, and peace formally proclaimed. After this, both camps united and + mingled in social intercourse. Private quarrels, however, would + occasionally occur in hunting, about the division of the game, and blows + would sometimes be exchanged over the carcass of a buffalo; but the chiefs + wisely took no notice of these individual brawls. + </p> + <p> + One day the scouts, who had been ranging the hills, brought news of + several large herds of antelopes in a small valley at no great distance. + This produced a sensation among the Indians, for both tribes were in + ragged condition, and sadly in want of those shirts made of the skin of + the antelope. It was determined to have “a surround,” as the mode of + hunting that animal is called. Everything now assumed an air of mystic + solemnity and importance. The chiefs prepared their medicines or charms + each according to his own method, or fancied inspiration, generally with + the compound of certain simples; others consulted the entrails of animals + which they had sacrificed, and thence drew favorable auguries. After much + grave smoking and deliberating it was at length proclaimed that all who + were able to lift a club, man, woman, or child, should muster for “the + surround.” When all had congregated, they moved in rude procession to the + nearest point of the valley in question, and there halted. Another course + of smoking and deliberating, of which the Indians are so fond, took place + among the chiefs. Directions were then issued for the horsemen to make a + circuit of about seven miles, so as to encompass the herd. When this was + done, the whole mounted force dashed off simultaneously, at full speed, + shouting and yelling at the top of their voices. In a short space of time + the antelopes, started from their hiding-places, came bounding from all + points into the valley. The riders, now gradually contracting their + circle, brought them nearer and nearer to the spot where the senior chief, + surrounded by the elders, male and female, were seated in supervision of + the chase. The antelopes, nearly exhausted with fatigue and fright, and + bewildered by perpetual whooping, made no effort to break through the ring + of the hunters, but ran round in small circles, until man, woman, and + child beat them down with bludgeons. Such is the nature of that species of + antelope hunting, technically called “a surround.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0049" id="link2H_4_0049"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 47. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A festive winter—Conversion of the Shoshonies—Visit of two + free trappers—Gayety in the camp—A touch of the tender + passion—The reclaimed squaw—An Indian fine lady—An + elopement—A pursuit—Market value of a bad wife. +</pre> + <p> + GAME continued to abound throughout the winter, and the camp was + overstocked with provisions. Beef and venison, humps and haunches, buffalo + tongues and marrow-bones, were constantly cooking at every fire; and the + whole atmosphere was redolent with the savory fumes of roast meat. It was, + indeed, a continual “feast of fat things,” and though there might be a + lack of “wine upon the lees,” yet we have shown that a substitute was + occasionally to be found in honey and alcohol. + </p> + <p> + Both the Shoshonies and the Eutaws conducted themselves with great + propriety. It is true, they now and then filched a few trifles from their + good friends, the Big Hearts, when their backs were turned; but then, they + always treated them to their faces with the utmost deference and respect, + and good-humoredly vied with the trappers in all kinds of feats of + activity and mirthful sports. The two tribes maintained toward each other, + also a friendliness of aspect which gave Captain Bonneville reason to hope + that all past animosity was effectually buried. + </p> + <p> + The two rival bands, however, had not long been mingled in this social + manner before their ancient jealousy began to break out in a new form. The + senior chief of the Shoshonies was a thinking man, and a man of + observation. He had been among the Nez Perces, listened to their new code + of morality and religion received from the white men, and attended their + devotional exercises. He had observed the effect of all this, in elevating + the tribe in the estimation of the white men; and determined, by the same + means, to gain for his own tribe a superiority over their ignorant rivals, + the Eutaws. He accordingly assembled his people, and promulgated among + them the mongrel doctrines and form of worship of the Nez Perces; + recommending the same to their adoption. The Shoshonies were struck with + the novelty, at least, of the measure, and entered into it with spirit. + They began to observe Sundays and holidays, and to have their devotional + dances, and chants, and other ceremonials, about which the ignorant Eutaws + knew nothing; while they exerted their usual competition in shooting and + horseracing, and the renowned game of hand. + </p> + <p> + Matters were going on thus pleasantly and prosperously, in this motley + community of white and red men, when, one morning, two stark free + trappers, arrayed in the height of savage finery, and mounted on steeds as + fine and as fiery as themselves, and all jingling with hawks’ bells, came + galloping, with whoop and halloo, into the camp. + </p> + <p> + They were fresh from the winter encampment of the American Fur Company, in + the Green River Valley; and had come to pay their old comrades of Captain + Bonneville’s company a visit. An idea may be formed from the scenes we + have already given of conviviality in the wilderness, of the manner in + which these game birds were received by those of their feather in the + camp; what feasting, what revelling, what boasting, what bragging, what + ranting and roaring, and racing and gambling, and squabbling and fighting, + ensued among these boon companions. Captain Bonneville, it is true, + maintained always a certain degree of law and order in his camp, and + checked each fierce excess; but the trappers, in their seasons of idleness + and relaxation require a degree of license and indulgence, to repay them + for the long privations and almost incredible hardships of their periods + of active service. + </p> + <p> + In the midst of all this feasting and frolicking, a freak of the tender + passion intervened, and wrought a complete change in the scene. Among the + Indian beauties in the camp of the Eutaws and Shoshonies, the free + trappers discovered two, who had whilom figured as their squaws. These + connections frequently take place for a season, and sometimes continue for + years, if not perpetually; but are apt to be broken when the free trapper + starts off, suddenly, on some distant and rough expedition. + </p> + <p> + In the present instance, these wild blades were anxious to regain their + belles; nor were the latter loath once more to come under their + protection. The free trapper combines, in the eye of an Indian girl, all + that is dashing and heroic in a warrior of her own race—whose gait, + and garb, and bravery he emulates—with all that is gallant and + glorious in the white man. And then the indulgence with which he treats + her, the finery in which he decks her out, the state in which she moves, + the sway she enjoys over both his purse and person; instead of being the + drudge and slave of an Indian husband, obliged to carry his pack, and + build his lodge, and make his fire, and bear his cross humors and dry + blows. No; there is no comparison in the eyes of an aspiring belle of the + wilderness, between a free trapper and an Indian brave. + </p> + <p> + With respect to one of the parties the matter was easily arranged. ‘The + beauty in question was a pert little Eutaw wench, that had been taken + prisoner, in some war excursion, by a Shoshonie. She was readily ransomed + for a few articles of trifling value; and forthwith figured about the camp + in fine array, “with rings on her fingers, and bells on her toes,” and a + tossed-up coquettish air that made her the envy, admiration, and + abhorrence of all the leathern-dressed, hard-working squaws of her + acquaintance. + </p> + <p> + As to the other beauty, it was quite a different matter. She had become + the wife of a Shoshonie brave. It is true, he had another wife, of older + date than the one in question; who, therefore, took command in his + household, and treated his new spouse as a slave; but the latter was the + wife of his last fancy, his latest caprice; and was precious in his eyes. + All attempt to bargain with him, therefore, was useless; the very + proposition was repulsed with anger and disdain. The spirit of the trapper + was roused, his pride was piqued as well as his passion. He endeavored to + prevail upon his quondam mistress to elope with him. His horses were + fleet, the winter nights were long and dark, before daylight they would be + beyond the reach of pursuit; and once at the encampment in Green River + Valley, they might set the whole band of Shoshonies at defiance. + </p> + <p> + The Indian girl listened and longed. Her heart yearned after the ease and + splendor of condition of a trapper’s bride, and throbbed to be free from + the capricious control of the premier squaw; but she dreaded the failure + of the plan, and the fury of a Shoshonie husband. They parted; the Indian + girl in tears, and the madcap trapper more than ever, with his thwarted + passion. + </p> + <p> + Their interviews had, probably, been detected, and the jealousy of the + Shoshonie brave aroused: a clamor of angry voices was heard in his lodge, + with the sound of blows, and of female weeping and lamenting. At night, as + the trapper lay tossing on his pallet, a soft voice whispered at the door + of his lodge. His mistress stood trembling before him. She was ready to + follow whithersoever he should lead. + </p> + <p> + In an instant he was up and out. He had two prime horses, sure and swift + of foot, and of great wind. With stealthy quiet, they were brought up and + saddled; and in a few moments he and his prize were careering over the + snow, with which the whole country was covered. In the eagerness of + escape, they had made no provision for their journey; days must elapse + before they could reach their haven of safety, and mountains and prairies + be traversed, wrapped in all the desolation of winter. For the present, + however they thought of nothing but flight; urging their horses forward + over the dreary wastes, and fancying, in the howling of every blast, they + heard the yell of the pursuer. + </p> + <p> + At early dawn, the Shoshonie became aware of his loss. Mounting his + swiftest horse, he set off in hot pursuit. He soon found the trail of the + fugitives, and spurred on in hopes of overtaking them. The winds, however, + which swept the valley, had drifted the light snow into the prints made by + the horses’ hoofs. In a little while he lost all trace of them, and was + completely thrown out of the chase. He knew, however, the situation of the + camp toward which they were bound, and a direct course through the + mountains, by which he might arrive there sooner than the fugitives. + Through the most rugged defiles, therefore, he urged his course by day and + night, scarce pausing until he reached the camp. It was some time before + the fugitives made their appearance. Six days had they traversed the + wintry wilds. They came, haggard with hunger and fatigue, and their horses + faltering under them. The first object that met their eyes on entering the + camp was the Shoshonie brave. He rushed, knife in hand, to plunge it in + the heart that had proved false to him. The trapper threw himself before + the cowering form of his mistress, and, exhausted as he was, prepared for + a deadly struggle. The Shoshonie paused. His habitual awe of the white man + checked his arm; the trapper’s friends crowded to the spot, and arrested + him. A parley ensued. A kind of crim. con. adjudication took place; such + as frequently occurs in civilized life. A couple of horses were declared + to be a fair compensation for the loss of a woman who had previously lost + her heart; with this, the Shoshonie brave was fain to pacify his passion. + He returned to Captain Bonneville’s camp, somewhat crestfallen, it is + true; but parried the officious condolements of his friends by observing + that two good horses were very good pay for one bad wife. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0050" id="link2H_4_0050"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 48. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Breaking up of winter quarters—Move to Green River—A + trapper and his rifle—An arrival in camp—A free trapper + and his squaw in distress—Story of a Blackfoot belle. +</pre> + <p> + THE winter was now breaking up, the snows were melted, from the hills, and + from the lower parts of the mountains, and the time for decamping had + arrived. Captain Bonneville dispatched a party to the caches, who brought + away all the effects concealed there, and on the 1st of April (1835), the + camp was broken up, and every one on the move. The white men and their + allies, the Eutaws and Shoshonies, parted with many regrets and sincere + expressions of good-will; for their intercourse throughout the winter had + been of the most friendly kind. + </p> + <p> + Captain Bonneville and his party passed by Ham’s Fork, and reached the + Colorado, or Green River, without accident, on the banks of which they + remained during the residue of the spring. During this time, they were + conscious that a band of hostile Indians were hovering about their + vicinity, watching for an opportunity to slay or steal; but the vigilant + precautions of Captain Bonneville baffled all their manoeuvres. In such + dangerous times, the experienced mountaineer is never without his rifle + even in camp. On going from lodge to lodge to visit his comrades, he takes + it with him. On seating himself in a lodge, he lays it beside him, ready + to be snatched up; when he goes out, he takes it up as regularly as a + citizen would his walking-staff. His rifle is his constant friend and + protector. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of June, the party was a little to the east of the Wind River + Mountains, where they halted for a time in excellent pasturage, to give + their horses a chance to recruit their strength for a long journey; for it + was Captain Bonneville’s intention to shape his course to the settlements; + having already been detained by the complication of his duties, and by + various losses and impediments, far beyond the time specified in his leave + of absence. + </p> + <p> + While the party was thus reposing in the neighborhood of the Wind River + Mountains, a solitary free trapper rode one day into the camp, and + accosted Captain Bonneville. He belonged, he said, to a party of thirty + hunters, who had just passed through the neighborhood, but whom he had + abandoned in consequence of their ill treatment of a brother trapper; whom + they had cast off from their party, and left with his bag and baggage, and + an Indian wife into the bargain, in the midst of a desolate prairie. The + horseman gave a piteous account of the situation of this helpless pair, + and solicited the loan of horses to bring them and their effects to the + camp. + </p> + <p> + The captain was not a man to refuse assistance to any one in distress, + especially when there was a woman in the case; horses were immediately + dispatched, with an escort, to aid the unfortunate couple. The next day + they made their appearance with all their effects; the man, a stalwart + mountaineer, with a peculiarly game look; the woman, a young Blackfoot + beauty, arrayed in the trappings and trinketry of a free trapper’s bride. + </p> + <p> + Finding the woman to be quick-witted and communicative, Captain Bonneville + entered into conversation with her, and obtained from her many particulars + concerning the habits and customs of her tribe; especially their wars and + huntings. They pride themselves upon being the “best legs of the + mountains,” and hunt the buffalo on foot. This is done in spring time, + when the frosts have thawed and the ground is soft. The heavy buffaloes + then sink over their hoofs at every step, and are easily overtaken by the + Blackfeet, whose fleet steps press lightly on the surface. It is said, + however, that the buffaloes on the Pacific side of the Rocky Mountains are + fleeter and more active than on the Atlantic side; those upon the plains + of the Columbia can scarcely be overtaken by a horse that would outstrip + the same animal in the neighborhood of the Platte, the usual hunting + ground of the Blackfeet. In the course of further conversation, Captain + Bonneville drew from the Indian woman her whole story; which gave a + picture of savage life, and of the drudgery and hardships to which an + Indian wife is subject. + </p> + <p> + “I was the wife,” said she, “of a Blackfoot warrior, and I served him + faithfully. Who was so well served as he? Whose lodge was so well + provided, or kept so clean? I brought wood in the morning, and placed + water always at hand. I watched for his coming; and he found his meat + cooked and ready. If he rose to go forth, there was nothing to delay him. + I searched the thought that was in his heart, to save him the trouble of + speaking. When I went abroad on errands for him, the chiefs and warriors + smiled upon me, and the young braves spoke soft things, in secret; but my + feet were in the straight path, and my eyes could see nothing but him. + </p> + <p> + “When he went out to hunt, or to war, who aided to equip him, but I? When + he returned, I met him at the door; I took his gun; and he entered without + further thought. While he sat and smoked, I unloaded his horses; tied them + to the stakes, brought in their loads, and was quickly at his feet. If his + moccasins were wet I took them off and put on others which were dry and + warm. I dressed all the skins he had taken in the chase. He could never + say to me, why is it not done? He hunted the deer, the antelope, and the + buffalo, and he watched for the enemy. Everything else was done by me. + When our people moved their camp, he mounted his horse and rode away; free + as though he had fallen from the skies. He had nothing to do with the + labor of the camp; it was I that packed the horses and led them on the + journey. When we halted in the evening, and he sat with the other braves + and smoked, it was I that pitched his lodge; and when he came to eat and + sleep, his supper and his bed were ready. + </p> + <p> + “I served him faithfully; and what was my reward? A cloud was always on + his brow, and sharp lightning on his tongue. I was his dog; and not his + wife. + </p> + <p> + “Who was it that scarred and bruised me? It was he. My brother saw how I + was treated. His heart was big for me. He begged me to leave my tyrant and + fly. Where could I go? If retaken, who would protect me? My brother was + not a chief; he could not save me from blows and wounds, perhaps death. At + length I was persuaded. I followed my brother from the village. He pointed + away to the Nez Perces, and bade me go and live in peace among them. We + parted. On the third day I saw the lodges of the Nez Perces before me. I + paused for a moment, and had no heart to go on; but my horse neighed, and + I took it as a good sign, and suffered him to gallop forward. In a little + while I was in the midst of the lodges. As I sat silent on my horse, the + people gathered round me, and inquired whence I came. I told my story. A + chief now wrapped his blanket close around him, and bade me dismount. I + obeyed. He took my horse to lead him away. My heart grew small within me. + I felt, on parting with my horse, as if my last friend was gone. I had no + words, and my eyes were dry. As he led off my horse a young brave stepped + forward. ‘Are you a chief of the people?’ cried he. ‘Do we listen to you + in council, and follow you in battle? Behold! a stranger flies to our camp + from the dogs of Blackfeet, and asks protection. Let shame cover your + face! The stranger is a woman, and alone. If she were a warrior, or had a + warrior at her side, your heart would not be big enough to take her horse. + But he is yours. By right of war you may claim him; but look!’—his + bow was drawn, and the arrow ready!—‘you never shall cross his + back!’ The arrow pierced the heart of the horse, and he fell dead. + </p> + <p> + “An old woman said she would be my mother. She led me to her lodge; my + heart was thawed by her kindness, and my eyes burst forth with tears; like + the frozen fountains in springtime. She never changed; but as the days + passed away, was still a mother to me. The people were loud in praise of + the young brave, and the chief was ashamed. I lived in peace. + </p> + <p> + “A party of trappers came to the village, and one of them took me for his + wife. This is he. I am very happy; he treats me with kindness, and I have + taught him the language of my people. As we were travelling this way, some + of the Blackfeet warriors beset us, and carried off the horses of the + party. We followed, and my husband held a parley with them. The guns were + laid down, and the pipe was lighted; but some of the white men attempted + to seize the horses by force, and then a battle began. The snow was deep, + the white men sank into it at every step; but the red men, with their + snow-shoes, passed over the surface like birds, and drove off many of the + horses in sight of their owners. With those that remained we resumed our + journey. At length words took place between the leader of the party and my + husband. He took away our horses, which had escaped in the battle, and + turned us from his camp. My husband had one good friend among the + trappers. That is he (pointing to the man who had asked assistance for + them). He is a good man. His heart is big. When he came in from hunting, + and found that we had been driven away, he gave up all his wages, and + followed us, that he might speak good words for us to the white captain.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0051" id="link2H_4_0051"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + 49. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Rendezvous at Wind River—Campaign of Montero and his + brigade in the Crow country—Wars between the Crows and + Blackfeet—Death—of Arapooish—Blackfeet lurkers—Sagacity + of the horse—Dependence of the hunter on his horse—Return + to the settlements. +</pre> + <p> + ON the 22d of June Captain Bonneville raised his camp, and moved to the + forks of Wind River; the appointed place of rendezvous. In a few days he + was joined there by the brigade of Montero, which had been sent, in the + preceding year, to beat up the Crow country, and afterward proceed to the + Arkansas. Montero had followed the early part of his instructions; after + trapping upon some of the upper streams, he proceeded to Powder River. + Here he fell in with the Crow villages or bands, who treated him with + unusual kindness, and prevailed upon him to take up his winter quarters + among them. + </p> + <p> + The Crows at that time were struggling almost for existence with their old + enemies, the Blackfeet; who, in the past year, had picked off the flower + of their warriors in various engagements, and among the rest, Arapooish, + the friend of the white men. That sagacious and magnanimous chief had + beheld, with grief, the ravages which war was making in his tribe, and + that it was declining in force, and must eventually be destroyed unless + some signal blow could be struck to retrieve its fortunes. In a pitched + battle of the two tribes, he made a speech to his warriors, urging them to + set everything at hazard in one furious charge; which done, he led the way + into the thickest of the foe. He was soon separated from his men, and fell + covered with wounds, but his self-devotion was not in vain. The Blackfeet + were defeated; and from that time the Crows plucked up fresh heart, and + were frequently successful. + </p> + <p> + Montero had not been long encamped among them, when he discovered that the + Blackfeet were hovering about the neighborhood. One day the hunters came + galloping into the camp, and proclaimed that a band of the enemy was at + hand. The Crows flew to arms, leaped on their horses, and dashed out in + squadrons in pursuit. They overtook the retreating enemy in the midst of a + plain. A desperate fight ensued. The Crows had the advantage of numbers, + and of fighting on horseback. The greater part of the Blackfeet were + slain; the remnant took shelter in a close thicket of willows, where the + horse could not enter; whence they plied their bows vigorously. + </p> + <p> + The Crows drew off out of bow-shot, and endeavored, by taunts and + bravadoes, to draw the warriors Out of their retreat. A few of the best + mounted among them rode apart from the rest. One of their number then + advanced alone, with that martial air and equestrian grace for which the + tribe is noted. When within an arrow’s flight of the thicket, he loosened + his rein, urged his horse to full speed, threw his body on the opposite + side, so as to hang by one leg, and present no mark to the foe; in this + way he swept along in front of the thicket, launching his arrows from + under the neck of his steed. Then regaining his seat in the saddle, he + wheeled round and returned whooping and scoffing to his companions, who + received him with yells of applause. + </p> + <p> + Another and another horseman repeated this exploit; but the Blackfeet were + not to be taunted out of their safe shelter. The victors feared to drive + desperate men to extremities, so they forbore to attempt the thicket. + Toward night they gave over the attack, and returned all-glorious with the + scalps of the slain. Then came on the usual feasts and triumphs, the + scalp-dance of warriors round the ghastly trophies, and all the other + fierce revelry of barbarous warfare. When the braves had finished with the + scalps, they were, as usual, given up to the women and children, and made + the objects of new parades and dances. They were then treasured up as + invaluable trophies and decorations by the braves who had won them. + </p> + <p> + It is worthy of note, that the scalp of a white man, either through policy + or fear, is treated with more charity than that of an Indian. The warrior + who won it is entitled to his triumph if he demands it. In such case, the + war party alone dance round the scalp. It is then taken down, and the + shagged frontlet of a buffalo substituted in its place, and abandoned to + the triumph and insults of the million. + </p> + <p> + To avoid being involved in these guerillas, as well as to escape from the + extremely social intercourse of the Crows, which began to be oppressive, + Montero moved to the distance of several miles from their camps, and there + formed a winter cantonment of huts. He now maintained a vigilant watch at + night. Their horses, which were turned loose to graze during the day, + under heedful eyes, were brought in at night, and shut up in strong pens, + built of large logs of cotton-wood. The snows, during a portion of the + winter, were so deep that the poor animals could find but little + sustenance. Here and there a tuft of grass would peer above the snow; but + they were in general driven to browse the twigs and tender branches of the + trees. When they were turned out in the morning, the first moments of + freedom from the confinement of the pen were spent in frisking and + gambolling. This done, they went soberly and sadly to work, to glean their + scanty subsistence for the day. In the meantime the men stripped the bark + of the cotton-wood tree for the evening fodder. As the poor horses would + return toward night, with sluggish and dispirited air, the moment they saw + their owners approaching them with blankets filled with cotton-wood bark, + their whole demeanor underwent a change. A universal neighing and capering + took place; they would rush forward, smell to the blankets, paw the earth, + snort, whinny and prance round with head and tail erect, until the + blankets were opened, and the welcome provender spread before them. These + evidences of intelligence and gladness were frequently recounted by the + trappers as proving the sagacity of the animal. + </p> + <p> + These veteran rovers of the mountains look upon their horses as in some + respects gifted with almost human intellect. An old and experienced + trapper, when mounting guard upon the camp in dark nights and times of + peril, gives heedful attention to all the sounds and signs of the horses. + No enemy enters nor approaches the camp without attracting their notice, + and their movements not only give a vague alarm, but it is said, will even + indicate to the knowing trapper the very quarter whence the danger + threatens. + </p> + <p> + In the daytime, too, while a hunter is engaged on the prairie, cutting up + the deer or buffalo he has slain, he depends upon his faithful horse as a + sentinel. The sagacious animal sees and smells all round him, and by his + starting and whinnying, gives notice of the approach of strangers. There + seems to be a dumb communion and fellowship, a sort of fraternal sympathy + between the hunter and his horse. They mutually rely upon each other for + company and protection; and nothing is more difficult, it is said, than to + surprise an experienced hunter on the prairie while his old and favorite + steed is at his side. + </p> + <p> + Montero had not long removed his camp from the vicinity of the Crows, and + fixed himself in his new quarters, when the Blackfeet marauders discovered + his cantonment, and began to haunt the vicinity, He kept up a vigilant + watch, however, and foiled every attempt of the enemy, who, at length, + seemed to have given up in despair, and abandoned the neighborhood. The + trappers relaxed their vigilance, therefore, and one night, after a day of + severe labor, no guards were posted, and the whole camp was soon asleep. + Toward midnight, however, the lightest sleepers were roused by the + trampling of hoofs; and, giving the alarm, the whole party were + immediately on their legs and hastened to the pens. The bars were down; + but no enemy was to be seen or heard, and the horses being all found hard + by, it was supposed the bars had been left down through negligence. All + were once more asleep, when, in about an hour there was a second alarm, + and it was discovered that several horses were missing. The rest were + mounted, and so spirited a pursuit took place, that eighteen of the number + carried off were regained, and but three remained in possession of the + enemy. Traps for wolves, had been set about the camp the preceding day. In + the morning it was discovered that a Blackfoot was entrapped by one of + them, but had succeeded in dragging it off. His trail was followed for a + long distance which he must have limped alone. At length he appeared to + have fallen in with some of his comrades, who had relieved him from his + painful encumbrance. + </p> + <p> + These were the leading incidents of Montero’s campaign in the Crow + country. The united parties now celebrated the 4th of July, in rough + hunters’ style, with hearty conviviality; after which Captain Bonneville + made his final arrangements. Leaving Montero with a brigade of trappers to + open another campaign, he put himself at the head of the residue of his + men, and set off on his return to civilized life. We shall not detail his + journey along the course of the Nebraska, and so, from point to point of + the wilderness, until he and his band reached the frontier settlements on + the 22d of August. + </p> + <p> + Here, according to his own account, his cavalcade might have been taken + for a procession of tatterdemalion savages; for the men were ragged almost + to nakedness, and had contracted a wildness of aspect during three years + of wandering in the wilderness. A few hours in a populous town, however, + produced a magical metamorphosis. Hats of the most ample brim and longest + nap; coats with buttons that shone like mirrors, and pantaloons of the + most ample plenitude, took place of the well-worn trapper’s equipments; + and the happy wearers might be seen strolling about in all directions, + scattering their silver like sailors just from a cruise. + </p> + <p> + The worthy captain, however, seems by no means to have shared the + excitement of his men, on finding himself once more in the thronged + resorts of civilized life, but, on the contrary, to have looked back to + the wilderness with regret. “Though the prospect,” says he, “of once more + tasting the blessings of peaceful society, and passing days and nights + under the calm guardianship of the laws, was not without its attractions; + yet to those of us whose whole lives had been spent in the stirring + excitement and perpetual watchfulness of adventures in the wilderness, the + change was far from promising an increase of that contentment and inward + satisfaction most conducive to happiness. He who, like myself, has roved + almost from boyhood among the children of the forest, and over the + unfurrowed plains and rugged heights of the western wastes, will not be + startled to learn, that notwithstanding all the fascinations of the world + on this civilized side of the mountains, I would fain make my bow to the + splendors and gayeties of the metropolis, and plunge again amidst the + hardships and perils of the wilderness.” + </p> + <p> + We have only to add that the affairs of the captain have been + satisfactorily arranged with the War Department, and that he is actually + in service at Fort Gibson, on our western frontier, where we hope he may + meet with further opportunities of indulging his peculiar tastes, and of + collecting graphic and characteristic details of the great western wilds + and their motley inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + We here close our picturings of the Rocky Mountains and their wild + inhabitants, and of the wild life that prevails there; which we have been + anxious to fix on record, because we are aware that this singular state of + things is full of mutation, and must soon undergo great changes, if not + entirely pass away. The fur trade itself, which has given life to all this + portraiture, is essentially evanescent. Rival parties of trappers soon + exhaust the streams, especially when competition renders them heedless and + wasteful of the beaver. The furbearing animals extinct, a complete change + will come over the scene; the gay free trapper and his steed, decked out + in wild array, and tinkling with bells and trinketry; the savage war + chief, plumed and painted and ever on the prowl; the traders’ cavalcade, + winding through defiles or over naked plains, with the stealthy war party + lurking on its trail; the buffalo chase, the hunting camp, the mad carouse + in the midst of danger, the night attack, the stampede, the scamper, the + fierce skirmish among rocks and cliffs—all this romance of savage + life, which yet exists among the mountains, will then exist but in + frontier story, and seem like the fictions of chivalry or fairy tale. + </p> + <p> + Some new system of things, or rather some new modification, will succeed + among the roving people of this vast wilderness; but just as opposite, + perhaps, to the inhabitants of civilization. The great Chippewyan chain of + mountains, and the sandy and volcanic plains which extend on either side, + are represented as incapable of cultivation. The pasturage which prevails + there during a certain portion of the year, soon withers under the aridity + of the atmosphere, and leaves nothing but dreary wastes. An immense belt + of rocky mountains and volcanic plains, several hundred miles in width, + must ever remain an irreclaimable wilderness, intervening between the + abodes of civilization, and affording a last refuge to the Indian. Here + roving tribes of hunters, living in tents or lodges, and following the + migrations of the game, may lead a life of savage independence, where + there is nothing to tempt the cupidity of the white man. The amalgamation + of various tribes, and of white men of every nation, will in time produce + hybrid races like the mountain Tartars of the Caucasus. Possessed as they + are of immense droves of horses should they continue their present + predatory and warlike habits, they may in time become a scourge to the + civilized frontiers on either side of the mountains, as they are at + present a terror to the traveller and trader. + </p> + <p> + The facts disclosed in the present work clearly manifest the policy of + establishing military posts and a mounted force to protect our traders in + their journeys across the great western wilds, and of pushing the outposts + into the very heart of the singular wilderness we have laid open, so as to + maintain some degree of sway over the country, and to put an end to the + kind of “blackmail,” levied on all occasions by the savage “chivalry of + the mountains.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Appendix + </h2> + <h3> + Nathaniel J. Wyeth, and the Trade of the Far West + </h3> + <p> + WE HAVE BROUGHT Captain Bonneville to the end of his western campaigning; + yet we cannot close this work without subjoining some particulars + concerning the fortunes of his contemporary, Mr. Wyeth; anecdotes of whose + enterprise have, occasionally, been interwoven in the party-colored web of + our narrative. Wyeth effected his intention of establishing a trading post + on the Portneuf, which he named Fort Hall. Here, for the first time, the + American flag was unfurled to the breeze that sweeps the great naked + wastes of the central wilderness. Leaving twelve men here, with a stock of + goods, to trade with the neighboring tribes, he prosecuted his journey to + the Columbia; where he established another post, called Fort Williams, on + Wappatoo Island, at the mouth of the Wallamut. This was to be the head + factory of his company; whence they were to carry on their fishing and + trapping operations, and their trade with the interior; and where they + were to receive and dispatch their annual ship. + </p> + <p> + The plan of Mr. Wyeth appears to have been well concerted. He had observed + that the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, the bands of free trappers, as well + as the Indians west of the mountains, depended for their supplies upon + goods brought from St. Louis; which, in consequence of the expenses and + risks of a long land carriage, were furnished them at an immense advance + on first cost. He had an idea that they might be much more cheaply + supplied from the Pacific side. Horses would cost much less on the borders + of the Columbia than at St. Louis: the transportation by land was much + shorter; and through a country much more safe from the hostility of savage + tribes; which, on the route from and to St. Louis, annually cost the lives + of many men. On this idea, he grounded his plan. He combined the salmon + fishery with the fur trade. A fortified trading post was to be established + on the Columbia, to carry on a trade with the natives for salmon and + peltries, and to fish and trap on their own account. Once a year, a ship + was to come from the United States, to bring out goods for the interior + trade, and to take home the salmon and furs which had been collected. Part + of the goods, thus brought out, were to be dispatched to the mountains, to + supply the trapping companies and the Indian tribes, in exchange for their + furs; which were to be brought down to the Columbia, to be sent home in + the next annual ship: and thus an annual round was to be kept up. The + profits on the salmon, it was expected, would cover all the expenses of + the ship; so that the goods brought out, and the furs carried home, would + cost nothing as to freight. + </p> + <p> + His enterprise was prosecuted with a spirit, intelligence, and + perseverance, that merited success. All the details that we have met with, + prove him to be no ordinary man. He appears to have the mind to conceive, + and the energy to execute extensive and striking plans. He had once more + reared the American flag in the lost domains of Astoria; and had he been + enabled to maintain the footing he had so gallantly effected, he might + have regained for his country the opulent trade of the Columbia, of which + our statesmen have negligently suffered us to be dispossessed. + </p> + <p> + It is needless to go into a detail of the variety of accidents and + cross-purposes, which caused the failure of his scheme. They were such as + all undertakings of the kind, involving combined operations by sea and + land, are liable to. What he most wanted, was sufficient capital to enable + him to endure incipient obstacles and losses; and to hold on until success + had time to spring up from the midst of disastrous experiments. + </p> + <p> + It is with extreme regret we learn that he has recently been compelled to + dispose of his establishment at Wappatoo Island, to the Hudson’s Bay + Company; who, it is but justice to say, have, according to his own + account, treated him throughout the whole of his enterprise, with great + fairness, friendship, and liberality. That company, therefore, still + maintains an unrivalled sway over the whole country washed by the Columbia + and its tributaries. It has, in fact, as far as its chartered powers + permit, followed out the splendid scheme contemplated by Mr. Astor, when + he founded his establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. From their + emporium of Vancouver, companies are sent forth in every direction, to + supply the interior posts, to trade with the natives, and to trap upon the + various streams. These thread the rivers, traverse the plains, penetrate + to the heart of the mountains, extend their enterprises northward, to the + Russian possessions, and southward, to the confines of California. Their + yearly supplies are received by sea, at Vancouver; and thence their furs + and peltries are shipped to London. They likewise maintain a considerable + commerce, in wheat and lumber, with the Pacific islands, and to the north, + with the Russian settlements. + </p> + <p> + Though the company, by treaty, have a right to a participation only, in + the trade of these regions, and are, in fact, but tenants on sufferance; + yet have they quietly availed themselves of the original oversight, and + subsequent supineness of the American government, to establish a monopoly + of the trade of the river and its dependencies; and are adroitly + proceeding to fortify themselves in their usurpation, by securing all the + strong points of the country. + </p> + <p> + Fort George, originally Astoria, which was abandoned on the removal of the + main factory to Vancouver, was renewed in 1830; and is now kept up as a + fortified post and trading house. All the places accessible to shipping + have been taken possession of, and posts recently established at them by + the company. + </p> + <p> + The great capital of this association; their long established system; + their hereditary influence over the Indian tribes; their internal + organization, which makes every thing go on with the regularity of a + machine; and the low wages of their people, who are mostly Canadians, give + them great advantages over the American traders: nor is it likely the + latter will ever be able to maintain any footing in the land, until the + question of territorial right is adjusted between the two countries. The + sooner that takes place, the better. It is a question too serious to + national pride, if not to national interests, to be slurred over; and + every year is adding to the difficulties which environ it. + </p> + <p> + The fur trade, which is now the main object of enterprise west of the + Rocky Mountains, forms but a part of the real resources of the country. + Beside the salmon fishery of the Columbia, which is capable of being + rendered a considerable source of profit; the great valleys of the lower + country, below the elevated volcanic plateau, are calculated to give + sustenance to countless flocks and herds, and to sustain a great + population of graziers and agriculturists. + </p> + <p> + Such, for instance, is the beautiful valley of the Wallamut; from which + the establishment at Vancouver draws most of its supplies. Here, the + company holds mills and farms; and has provided for some of its + superannuated officers and servants. This valley, above the falls, is + about fifty miles wide, and extends a great distance to the south. The + climate is mild, being sheltered by lateral ranges of mountains; while the + soil, for richness, has been equalled to the best of the Missouri lands. + The valley of the river Des Chutes, is also admirably calculated for a + great grazing country. All the best horses used by the company for the + mountains are raised there. The valley is of such happy temperature, that + grass grows there throughout the year, and cattle may be left out to + pasture during the winter. + </p> + <p> + These valleys must form the grand points of commencement of the future + settlement of the country; but there must be many such, en folded in the + embraces of these lower ranges of mountains; which, though at present they + lie waste and uninhabited, and to the eye of the trader and trapper, + present but barren wastes, would, in the hands of skilful agriculturists + and husbandmen, soon assume a different aspect, and teem with waving + crops, or be covered with flocks and herds. + </p> + <p> + The resources of the country, too, while in the hands of a company + restricted in its trade, can be but partially called forth; but in the + hands of Americans, enjoying a direct trade with the East Indies, would be + brought into quickening activity; and might soon realize the dream of Mr. + Astor, in giving rise to a flourishing commercial empire. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0053" id="link2H_4_0053"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Wreck of a Japanese Junk on the Northwest Coast + </h2> + <p> + THE FOLLOWING EXTRACT of a letter which we received, lately, from Mr. + Wyeth, may be interesting, as throwing some light upon the question as to + the manner in which America has been peopled. + </p> + <p> + “Are you aware of the fact, that in the winter of 1833, a Japanese junk + was wrecked on the northwest coast, in the neighborhood of Queen + Charlotte’s Island; and that all but two of the crew, then much reduced by + starvation and disease, during a long drift across the Pacific, were + killed by the natives? The two fell into the hands of the Hudson’s Bay + Company, and were sent to England. I saw them, on my arrival at Vancouver, + in 1834.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0054" id="link2H_4_0054"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Instructions to Captain Bonneville + </h2> + <h3> + from the Major-General Commanding the Army of the United States. + </h3> + <p> + Copy + </p> + <p> + Head Quarters of the Army. Washington 29th July 1831. + </p> + <p> + Sir, + </p> + <p> + The leave of absence which you have asked for the purpose of enabling you + to carry into execution your designs of exploring the country to the Rocky + Mountains, and beyond with a view of ascertaining the nature and character + of the various tribes of Indians inhabiting those regions; the trade which + might be profitably carried on with them, the quality of the soil, the + productions, the minerals, the natural history, the climate, the + Geography, and Topography, as well as Geology of the various parts of the + Country within the limits of the Territories belonging to the United + States, between our frontier, and the Pacific; has been duly considered, + and submitted to the War Department, for approval, and has been + sanctioned. + </p> + <p> + You are therefore authorised to be absent from the Army until October + 1833. + </p> + <p> + It is understood that the Government is to be at no expence, in reference + to your proposed expedition, it having originated with yourself, and all + that you required was the permission from the proper authority to + undertake the enterprise. You will naturally in providing yourself for the + expedition, provide suitable instruments, and especially the best Maps of + the interior to be found. It is desirable besides what is enumerated as + the object of enterprise that you note particularly the number of Warriors + that may belong to each tribe, or nation that you may meet with: their + alliances with other tribes and their relative position as to a state of + peace or war, and whether their friendly or warlike dispositions towards + each other are recent or of long standing. You will gratify us by + describing the manner of their making War, of the mode of subsisting + themselves during a state of war, and a state of peace, their Arms, and + the effect of them, whether they act on foot or on horse back, detailing + the discipline, and manuvers of the war parties, the power of their + horses, size and general discription; in short any information which you + may conceive would be useful to the Government. You will avail yourself of + every opportunity of informing us of your position and progress, and at + the expiration of your leave of absence will join your proper station. + </p> + <p> + I have the honor to be Sir, Your Ot St + </p> + <p> + (Signed) Alexr Macomb Maj Genl Comg + </p> + <p> + To Cap: B. L E Bonneville 7th Regt Infantry New York + </p> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1372 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |