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diff --git a/1371-h/1371-h.htm b/1371-h/1371-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..00bed83 --- /dev/null +++ b/1371-h/1371-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,17887 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <title> + Astoria, by Washington Irving + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1371 ***</div> + + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + ASTORIA; + </h1> + <h2> + OR, ANECDOTES OF AN ENTERPRISE <br /> BEYOND THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS + </h2> + <h3> + By Washington Irving + </h3> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0001"> AUTHOR’S INTRODUCTION </a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. -- Objects of American Enterprise.—Gold Hunting and Fur + Trading.—Their Effect on Colonization.—Early French Canadian + Settlers.—Ottawa and Huron Hunters.—An Indian Trading Camp. + Coureurs Des Bois, or Rangers of the Woods.—Their Roaming + Life.—Their Revels and Excesses.—Licensed Traders. + Missionaries.—Trading Posts.—Primitive French Canadian + Merchant.—His Establishment and Dependents.—British Canadian + Fur Merchant.—Origin of the Northwest Company.—Its + Constitution.—Its Internal Trade.—A Candidate for the + Company.—Privations in the Wilderness.—Northwest Clerks. + Northwest Partners.—Northwest Nabobs.—Feudal Notions in the + Forests.—The Lords of the Lakes.—Fort William.—Its + Parliamentary Hall and Banqueting Room.—Wassailing in the + Wilderness.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. -- Rise of the Mackinaw Company.—Attempt of the American + Government to Counteract Foreign Influence Over the Indian + Tribes.—John Jacob Astor.—His Birth-Place.—His Arrival in + the United States.—What First Turned His Attention to the + Fur Trade.—His Character, Enterprises, and Success.—His + Communications With the American Government.—Origin of the + American Fur Company</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. -- Fur Trade in the Pacific—American Coasting Voyages—Russian + Enterprises.—Discovery of the Columbia River.—Carver’s + Project to Found a Settlement There.—Mackenzie’s + Expedition.—Lewis and Clarke’s Journey Across the Rocky + Mountains—Mr. Astor’s Grand Commercial Scheme.—His + Correspondence on the Subject With Mr. Jefferson.—His + Negotiations With the Northwest Company.—His Steps to Carry + His Scheme Into Effect.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. -- Two Expeditions Set on Foot.—The Tonquin and Her Crew.— + Captain Thorn, His Character.—The Partners and Clerks— + Canadian Voyageurs, Their Habits, Employments, Dress, + Character, Songs—Expedition of a Canadian Boat and Its Crew + by Land and Water.—Arrival at New York.—Preparations for a + Sea Voyage.—Northwest Braggarts.—Underhand Precautions— + Letter of Instructions.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. -- Sailing of the Tonquin.—A Rigid Commander and a Reckless + Crew.—Landsmen on Shipboard.—Fresh-Water Sailors at Sea.— + Lubber Nests.—Ship Fare.—A Labrador Veteran—Literary + Clerks.-Curious Travellers.—Robinson Crusoe’s Island.— + Quarter-Deck Quarrels.—Falkland Islands.—A Wild-Goose + Chase.—Port Egmont.-Epitaph Hunting.—Old Mortality— + Penguin Shooting.—Sportsmen Left in the Lurch.—A Hard + Pull.—Further Altercations.—Arrival at Owyhee.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. -- Owyhee.—Sandwich Islanders—Their Nautical Talents.— + Tamaahmaah.—His Navy.—His Negotiations.—Views of Mr. + Astor With Respect to the Sandwich Islands—Karakakooa.— + Royal Monopoly of Pork.-Description of the Islanders— + Gayeties on Shore.—Chronicler of the Island.—Place + Where Captain Cook was Killed.—John Young, a Nautical + Governor.—His Story.—Waititi—A Royal Residence.—A Royal + Visit—Grand Ceremonials.—Close Dealing—A Royal Pork + Merchant—Grievances of a Matter-of-Fact Man.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. -- Departure From the Sandwich Islands.—Misunderstandings— + Miseries of a Suspicious Man.—Arrival at the Columbia— + Dangerous Service.—Gloomy Apprehensions—Bars and + Breakers.—Perils of the Ship. Disasters of a Boat’s Crew.— + Burial of a Sandwich Islander.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. -- Mouth of the Columbia.—The Native Tribes.—Their Fishing.— + Their Canoes.—Bold Navigators—Equestrian Indians and + Piscatory Indians, Difference in Their Physical + Organization.—Search for a Trading Site.—Expedition of + M’Dougal and David Stuart-Comcomly, the One-Eyed Chieftain.— + Influence of Wealth in Savage Life.—Slavery Among the + Natives.-An Aristocracy of Flatheads.-Hospitality Among the + Chinooks—Comcomly’s Daughter.—Her Conquest.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. -- Point George—Founding of Astoria—Indian Visitors.—Their + Reception.—The Captain Taboos the Ship.—Departure of the + Tonquin.—Comments on the Conduct of Captain Thorn.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. -- Disquieting Rumors From the Interior.—Reconnoitring Party— + Preparations for a Trading Post.—An Unexpected Arrival—A + Spy in the Camp.—Expedition Into the Interior—Shores of + the Columbia—Mount Coffin.—Indian Sepulchre.—The Land of + Spirits—Columbian Valley—Vancouver’s Point.-Falls and + Rapids.—A Great Fishing Mart.—The Village of Wishram.— + Difference Between Fishing Indians and Hunting Indians— + Effects of Habits of Trade on the Indian Character.—Post + Established at the Oakinagan.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER XI. -- Alarm at Astoria.—Rumor of Indian Hostilities.— + Preparations for Defense.—Tragic Fate of the Tonquin.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. -- Gloom at Astoria—An Ingenious Stratagem.—The Small-Pox + Chief.—Launching of the Dolly.-An Arrival.—A Canadian + Trapper.-A Freeman of the Forest—An Iroquois Hunter.— + Winter on the Columbia.-Festivities of New Year.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. -- Expedition by Land.—Wilson P. Hunt.—His Character.—Donald + M’Kenzie.—Recruiting Service Among the Voyageurs.—A Bark + Canoe.—Chapel of St. Anne.-Votive Offerings.—Pious + Carousals,—A Ragged Regiment.-Mackinaw.—Picture of a + Trading Post.—Frolicking Voyageurs.—Swells and Swaggerers.— + Indian Coxcombs.—A Man of the North.—Jockeyship of + Voyageurs—Inefficacy of Gold.-Weight of a Feather—Mr. + Ramsay Crooks—His Character.—His Risks Among the Indians.— + His Warning Concerning Sioux and Blackfeet.—Embarkation of + Recruits.—Parting Scenes Between Brothers, Cousins, Wives, + Sweethearts, and Pot Companions.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. -- St. Louis.—Its Situation.—Motley Population.—French + Creole Traders and Their Dependants.—Missouri Fur Company— + Mr. Manuel Lisa.—Mississippi Boatmen.—Vagrant Indians. + —Kentucky Hunters—Old French Mansion—Fiddling—Billiards + —Mr. Joseph Miller—His Character—Recruits—Voyage Up the + Missouri.—Difficulties of the River.—Merits of Canadian + Voyageurs.-Arrival at the Nodowa.—Mr. Robert M’Lellan joins + the Party—John Day, a Virginia Hunter. Description of Him. + —Mr. Hunt Returns to St. Louis.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. -- Opposition of the Missouri Fur Company.-Blackfeet Indians.— + Pierre Dorion, a Half-Breed Interpreter.—Old Dorion and His + Hybrid Progeny—Family Quarrels.—Cross Purposes Between + Dorion and Lisa.—Renegadoes From Nodowa.—Perplexities of + a Commander.—Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall Join the + Expedition.-Legal Embarrassments of Pierre Dorion.— + Departure From St. Louis.—Conjugal Discipline of a Half- + Breed.—Annual Swelling of the Rivers.-Daniel Boone, the + Patriarch of Kentucky.-John Colter.-His Adventures Among the + Indians.-Rumors of Danger Ahead.-Fort Osage.-An Indian War- + Feast.-Troubles in the Dorion Family.—Buffaloes and Turkey- + Buzzards.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0016"> CHAPTER XVI. -- Return of Spring.—Appearance of Snakes.—Great Flights of + Wild Pigeons.—Renewal of the Voyage.—Night Encampments.— + Platte River.—Ceremonials on Passing It.—Signs of Indian + War Parties.—Magnificent Prospect at Papillion Creek.— + Desertion of Two Hunters.—An Irruption Into the Camp of + Indian Desperadoes.—Village of the Omahas.—Anecdotes of the + Tribe.—Feudal Wars of the Indians.—Story of Blackbird, the + Famous Omaha Chief.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. -- Rumors of Danger From the Sioux Tetons.—Ruthless Character + of Those Savages.—Pirates of the Missouri.—Their Affair + with Crooks and M’Lellan.—A Trading Expedition Broken Up.— + M’Lellan’s Vow of Vengeance.—Uneasiness in the Camp.— + Desertions.-Departure From the Omaha Village.—Meeting With + Jones and Carson, two Adventurous Trappers.—Scientific + Pursuits of Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall.—Zeal of a + Botanist.—Adventure of Mr. Bradbury with a Ponca Indian.— + Expedient of the Pocket Compass and Microscope.—A Messenger + From Lisa.—Motives for Pressing Forward.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XVIII. -- Camp Gossip.—Deserters.—Recruits.—Kentucky Hunters.—A + Veteran Woodman.—Tidings of Mr. Henry.-Danger From the + Blackfeet.—Alteration of Plans.—Scenery of the River.— + Buffalo Roads.—Iron Ore.—Country of the Sioux.—A Land of + Danger.-apprehensions of the Voyageurs.—Indian Scouts.— + Threatened Hostilities.—A Council of War.—An Array of + Battle.—A Parley.—The Pipe of Peace.—Speech-Making.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XIX. -- The Great Bend of the Missouri—Crooks and M’Lellan Meet + With Two of Their Indian Opponents—Wanton Outrage of a + White Man the Cause of Indian Hostility—Dangers and + Precautions.-An Indian War Party.—Dangerous Situation of + Mr. Hunt.—A Friendly Encampment.—Feasting and Dancing.— + Approach of Manuel Lisa and His Party—.A Grim Meeting + Between Old Rivals.—Pierre Dorion in a Fury.—A Burst of + chivalry.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XX. -- Features of the Wilderness—Herds of Buffalo.—Antelopes— + Their Varieties and Habits.—John Day.—His Hunting + Strategy—Interview with Three Arickaras—Negotiations + Between the Rival Parties—The Left-Handed and the Big Man, + two Arickara Chiefs.—Arickara Village—Its Inhabitants— + Ceremonials on Landing—A Council Lodge.—Grand Conference— + Speech of Lisa.—Negotiation for Horses.—Shrewd Suggestion + of Gray Eyes, an Arickara Chief—Encampment of the Trading + Parties.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER XXI. -- An Indian Horse Fair.—Love of the Indians for Horses— + Scenes in the Arickara Village.—Indian Hospitality.—Duties + of Indian Women. Game Habits of the Men.—Their Indolence. + —Love of Gossiping.—Rumors of Lurking Enemies.—Scouts.— + An Alarm.—A Sallying Forth.—Indian Dogs.—Return of a Horse + —Stealing Party.—An Indian Deputation.—Fresh Alarms.—Return + of a Successful War Party.—Dress of the Arickaras.—Indian + Toilet.—Triumphal Entry of the War Party.—Meetings of + Relations and Friends.—Indian Sensibility.—Meeting of a + Wounded Warrior and His Mother.—Festivities and + Lamentations.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXII. -- Wilderness of the Far West.—Great American Desert—Parched + Seasons.—Black Hills.—Rocky Mountains.—Wandering and + Predatory Hordes.—Speculations on What May Be the Future + Population.—Apprehended Dangers.-A Plot to Desert.—Rose the + Interpreter.—His Sinister Character—Departure From the + Arickara Village.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIII. -- Summer Weather of the Prairies.—Purity of the Atmosphere— + Canadians on the March.—Sickness in the Camp.—Big River.— + Vulgar Nomenclature.—Suggestions About the Original Indian + Names.—Camp of Cheyennes.—Trade for Horses.—Character of + the Cheyennes.—Their Horsemanship.—Historical Anecdotes of + the Tribe.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0025"> CHAPTER XXIV. -- New Distribution of Horses—Secret Information of Treason in + the Camp.—Rose the Interpreter—His Perfidious Character— + His Plots.—Anecdotes of the Crow Indians.—Notorious Horse + Stealers.—Some Account of Rose.—A Desperado of the + Frontier.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXV. -- Substitute for Fuel on the Prairies.—Fossil Trees.— + Fierceness of the Buffaloes When in Heat.—Three Hunters + Missing.—Signal Fires and Smokes.—Uneasiness Concerning + the Lost Men.—A Plan to Forestall a Rogue.—New Arrangement + With Rose.—Return of the Wanderers.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVI. -- The Black Mountains.—Haunts of Predatory Indians.—Their + Wild and Broken Appearance.—Superstitions Concerning Them— + Thunder Spirits.—Singular Noises in the Mountains—Secret + Mines.-Hidden Treasures.—Mountains in Labor.—Scientific + Explanation.-Impassable Defiles.—Black-Tailed Deer.-The + Bighorn or Ahsahta.-Prospect From a Lofty Height.—Plain + With Herds of Buffalo.-Distant Peaks of the Rocky + Mountains.—Alarms in the Camp.-Tracks of Grizzly Bears.— + Dangerous Nature of This Animal.-Adventures of William + Cannon and John Day With Grizzly Bears.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVII. -- Indian Trail.—Rough Mountain Travelling.—Sufferings From + Hunger and Thirst—Powder River.—Game in Abundance.-A + Hunter’s Paradise.—Mountain Peak Seen at a Great Distance.— + One of the Bighorn Chain.—Rocky Mountains.—Extent.— + Appearance.—Height.-The Great American Desert.—Various + Characteristics of the Mountains.—Indian Superstitions + Concerning Them.—Land of Souls.—Towns of the Free and + Generous Spirits—Happy Hunting Grounds.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0029"> CHAPTER XXVIII. -- Region of the Crow Indians—Scouts on the Lookout—Visit + From a Crew of Hard Riders.—A Crow Camp.—Presents to the + Crow Chief.-Bargaining.-Crow Bullies.-Rose Among His Indian + Friends.-Parting With the Crows.—Perplexities Among the + Mountains.—More of the Crows.—Equestrian Children.—Search + After Stragglers.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0030"> CHAPTER XXIX -- Mountain Glens.—Wandering Band of Savages—Anecdotes of + Shoshonies and Flatheads.—Root Diggers—Their Solitary + Lurking Habits.—Gnomes of the Mountains.—Wind River.— + Scarcity of Food.—Alteration of Route.—The Pilot Knobs or + Tetons.—Branch of the Colorado.—Hunting Camp.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0031"> CHAPTER XXX. -- A Plentiful Hunting Camp.-Shoshonie Hunters—Hoback’s River + —Mad River—Encampment Near the Pilot Knobs.—A + Consultation.—Preparations for a Perilous Voyage.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0032"> CHAPTER XXXI. -- A Consultation Whether to Proceed by Land or Water— + Preparations for Boat-Building.—An Exploring Party.—A + Party of Trappers Detached.—Two Snake Visitors.—Their + Report Concerning the River.—Confirmed by the Exploring + Party.—Mad River Abandoned.—Arrival at Henry’s Fort.— + Detachment of Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner to Trap.—Mr. + Miller Resolves to Accompany Them.—Their Departure.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0033"> CHAPTER XXXII. -- Scanty Fare.—A Mendicant Snake.—Embarkation on Henry + River—Joy of the Voyageurs.-Arrival at Snake River.—Rapids + and Breakers.—Beginning of Misfortunes.—Snake + Encampments.—Parley With a Savage.—A Second Disaster.— + Loss of a Boatman.—The Caldron Linn.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0034"> CHAPTER XXXIII. -- Gloomy Council.—Exploring Parties—Discouraging Reports— + Disastrous Experiment.—Detachments in Quest of Succor.— + Caches, How Made.—Return of One of the Detachments— + Unsuccessful.—Further Disappointments—The Devil’s + Scuttle-Hole</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0035"> CHAPTER XXXIV. -- Determination of the Party to Proceed on Foot.—Dreary + Deserts Between Snake River and the Columbia.—Distribution + of Effects Preparatory to a March—Division of the Party.— + Rugged March Along the River.—Wild and Broken Scenery.— + Shoshonies.—Alarm of a Snake Encampment—Intercourse with + the Snakes.—Horse Dealing.—Value of a Tin Kettle.— + Sufferings From Thirst—A Horse Reclaimed.—Fortitude of an + Indian Woman.—Scarcity of Food.—Dog’s Flesh a Dainty.—News + of Mr. Crooks and His Party.—Painful Travelling Among the + Mountains.—Snow Storms.—A Dreary Mountain Prospect.—A + Bivouac During a Wintry Night.—Return to the River Bank.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0036"> CHAPTER XXXV. -- An Unexpected Meeting.—Navigation in a Skin Canoe.-Strange + Fears of Suffering Men.-Hardships of Mr. Crooks and His + Comrades.—Tidings of M’Lellan.—A Retrograde March.—A Willow + Raft.—Extreme Suffering of Some of the Party—Illness of + Mr. Crooks.—Impatience of Some of the Men.—Necessity of + Leaving the Laggards Behind.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0037"> CHAPTER XXXVI. -- Mr. Hunt Overtakes the Advance Party.—Pierre Dorion, and + His Skeleton Horse.—A Shoshonie Camp.—A Justifiable + Outrage.—Feasting on Horse Flesh.—Mr. Crooks Brought to + the Camp.—Undertakes to Relieve His Men.—The Skin Ferry- + Boat.—Frenzy of Prevost.—His Melancholy Fate.-Enfeebled + State of John Day.-Mr. Crooks Again Left Behind.-The Party + Emerge From Among the Mountains.—Interview With Shoshonies.— + A Guide Procured to Conduct the Party Across a Mountain.— + Ferriage Across Snake River.—Reunion With Mr Crook’s Men.— + Final Departure From the River.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0038"> CHAPTER XXXVII -- Departure From Snake River—Mountains to the North.—Wayworn + Travellers—An Increase of the Dorion Family.—A Camp of + Shoshonies.—A New-Year Festival Among the Snakes.—A Wintry + March Through the Mountains.—A Sunny Prospect, and Milder + Climate.—Indian Horse-Tracks.—Grassy Valleys.—A Camp of + Sciatogas.—Joy of the Travellers.-Dangers of Abundance.— + Habits of the Sciatogas.—Fate of Carriere.—The Umatilla.— + Arrival at the Banks of the Columbia.—Tidings of the + Scattered Members of the Expedition.—Scenery on the + Columbia.—Tidings of Astoria-Arrival at the Falls.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0039"> CHAPTER XXXVIII. -- The Village of Wish-ram.—Roguery of the Inhabitants.—Their + Habitations.—Tidings of Astoria.—Of the Tonquin Massacre. + —Thieves About the Camp.—A Band of Braggarts—Embarkation.— + Arrival at Astoria.—A Joyful Reception.—Old Comrade.— + Adventures of Reed, M’Lellan, and M’Kenzie Among the Snake + River Mountains.—Rejoicing at Astoria.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0040"> CHAPTER XXXIX. -- Scanty Fare During the Winter.—A Poor Hunting Ground.—The + Return of the Fishing Season.—The Uthlecan or Smelt.—Its + Qualities.—Vast Shoals of it.—Sturgeon.—Indian Modes of + Taking It.—The Salmon—Different Species.—Nature of the + Country About the Coast.—Forests and Forest Trees.—A + Remarkable Flowering Vine.—Animals.—Birds.—Reptiles— + Climate West of the Mountains—Mildness of the + Temperature.—Soil of the Coast and the Interior.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0041"> CHAPTER XL. -- Natives in the Neighborhood of Astoria—Their Persons and + Characteristics.—Causes of Deformity—Their Dress.— + Their Contempt of Beards—Ornaments—Armor and Weapons.-Mode + of Flattening the Head.—Extent of the Custom.—Religious + Belief.-The Two Great Spirits of the Air and of the Fire.— + Priests or Medicine Men.—The Rival Idols.—Polygamy a Cause + of Greatness-Petty Warfare.—Music, Dancing, Gambling.— + Thieving a Virtue.—Keen Traders—Intrusive Habits— + Abhorrence of Drunkenness—Anecdote of Comcomly.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0042"> CHAPTER XLI. -- Spring Arrangements at Astoria.—Various Expeditions Set + Out.-The Long Narrows.—Pilfering Indians.—Thievish Tribe + at Wish-ram.—Portage at the Falls—Portage by Moonlight.— + An Attack, a Route, and a Robbery.—Indian Cure for + Cowardice.—A Parley and Compromise.—The Despatch Party + Turn Back.—Meet Crooks and John Day.—Their Sufferings.— + Indian Perfidy.—Arrival at Astoria.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0043"> CHAPTER XLII -- Comprehensive Views.—To Supply the Russian Fur + Establishment.—An Agent Sent to Russia.—Project of an + Annual Ship.—The Beaver Fitted Out.—Her Equipment and + Crew.—Instructions to the Captain.—The Sandwich + Islands.—Rumors of the Fate of the Tonquin.—Precautions on + Reaching the Mouth of the Columbia.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0044"> CHAPTER XLIII. -- Active Operations at Astoria—Various Expeditions Fitted + Out.—Robert Stuart and a Party Destined for New York— + Singular Conduct of John Day.—His Fate.—Piratical Pass and + Hazardous Portage.-Rattlesnakes.—Their Abhorrence of + Tobacco.—Arrival Among the Wallah-Wallahs.—Purchase of + Horses—Departure of Stuart and His Band for the Mountains.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0045"> CHAPTER XLIV. -- Route of Mr. Stuart—Dreary Wilds.—Thirsty Travelling.-A + Grove and Streamlet.—The Blue Mountains.—A Fertile Plain + With Rivulets.—Sulphur Spring—Route Along Snake River— + Rumors of White Men.—The Snake and His Horse.—A Snake + Guide.-A Midnight Decampment.—Unexpected Meeting With Old + Comrades—Story of Trappers’ Hardships—Salmon Falls—A + Great Fishery.—Mode of Spearing Salmon.—Arrival at the + Caldron Linn.—State of the Caches.—New Resolution of the + Three Kentucky Trappers.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0046"> CHAPTER XLV. -- The Snake River Deserts.—Scanty Fare.—Bewildered + Travellers—Prowling Indians—A Giant Crow Chief.—A Bully + Rebuked—Indian Signals.—Smoke on the Mountains.—Mad + River.—An Alarm.—An Indian Foray—A Scamper.—A Rude + Indian joke.—A Sharp-Shooter Balked of His Shot.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0047"> CHAPTER XLVI. -- Travellers Unhorsed—Pedestrian Preparations—Prying Spies. + —Bonfires of Baggage—A March on Foot.—Rafting a River—The + Wounded Elk.—Indian Trails.—Willful Conduct of Mr. + M’Lellan.—Grand Prospect From a Mountain.—Distant Craters + of Volcanoes—Illness of Mr. Crooks.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0048"> CHAPTER XLVII. -- Ben Jones and a Grizzly Bear.—Rocky Heights—Mountain + Torrents.—Traces of M’Lellan.—Volcanic Remains—Mineral + Earths.—Peculiar Clay for Pottery.—Dismal Plight of + M’Lellan.—Starvation.—Shocking Proposition of a Desperate + Man.—A Broken-Down Bull.—A Ravenous Meal.—Indian Graves— + Hospitable Snakes.-A Forlorn Alliance.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0049"> CHAPTER XLVIII. -- Spanish River Scenery.—Trail of Crow Indians.—A Snow- + Storm.—A Rousing Fire and a Buffalo Feast.—A Plain of + Salt.—Climbing a Mountain.—Volcanic Summit.—Extinguished + Crater.—Marine Shells.—Encampment on a Prairie.— + Successful Hunting.—Good Cheer.—Romantic Scenery—Rocky + Defile.—Foaming Rapids.—The Fiery Narrows.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0050"> CHAPTER XLIX. -- Wintry Storms.—A Halt and Council.—Cantonment for the + Winter.—Fine Hunting Country.—Game of the Mountains and + Plains.-Successful Hunting—Mr. Crooks and a Grizzly Bear.— + The Wigwam.—Bighorn and Black-Tails.—Beef and Venison.— + Good Quarters and Good Cheer.—An Alarm.—An Intrusion.— + Unwelcome Guests.-Desolation of the Larder.—Gormandizing + Exploits of Hungry Savages.—Good Quarters Abandoned.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0051"> CHAPTER L. -- Rough Wintry Travelling—Hills and Plains.—Snow and Ice.— + Disappearance of Game.—A Vast Dreary Plain.—A. Second Halt + for the Winter.—Another Wigwam.—New Year’s Feast.—Buffalo + Humps, Tongues, and Marrow-Bones.—Return of Spring.—Launch + of Canoes.—Bad Navigation.—Pedestrian March.—Vast + Prairies.—Deserted Camps.—Pawnee Squaws.—An Otto + Indian.—News of War.—Voyage Down the Platte and the + Missouri.—Reception at Fort Osage.—Arrival at St. Louis.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0052"> CHAPTER LI. -- Agreement Between Mr. Astor and the Russian Fur Company—War + Between the United States and Great Britain.—Instructions + to Captain Sowle of the Beaver—Fitting Out of the Lark.— + News of the Arrival of Mr. Stuart.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0053"> CHAPTER LII. -- Banks of the Wallah-Wallah.—Departure of David Stuart for + the Oakinagan.—Mr. Clarke’s Route Up Lewis River.— + Chipunnish, or Pierced-Nose Indians—Their Character, + Appearance, and Habits.-Thievish Habits.—Laying Up of the + Boats.—Post at Pointed Heart and Spokan Rivers.—M’Kenzie, + His Route Up the Camoenum.-Bands of Travelling Indians.— + Expedition of Reed to the Caches.—Adventures of Wandering + Voyageurs and Trappers.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0054"> CHAPTER LIII. -- Departure of Mr. Hunt in the Beaver—Precautions at the + Factory.-Detachment to the Wollamut.—Gloomy Apprehensions.— + Arrival of M’Kenzie.—Affairs at the Shahaptan.—News of + War.—Dismay of M’Dougal.-Determination to Abandon Astoria.— + Departure of M’Kenzie for the Interior.—Adventure at the + Rapids.—Visit to the Ruffians of Wish-ram.—A Perilous + Situation.—Meeting With M’Tavish and His Party.—Arrival at + the Shahaptan.—Plundered Caches.-Determination of the + Wintering Partners Not to Leave the Country.—Arrival of + Clarke Among the Nez Perces.—The Affair of the Silver + Goblet.—Hanging of An Indian.—Arrival of the Wintering + Partners at Astoria.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0055"> CHAPTER LIV. -- The Partners Displeased With M’Dougal.—Equivocal Conduct of + That Gentleman—Partners Agree to Abandon Astoria.—Sale of + Goods to M’Tavish.—Arrangements for the Year.—Manifesto + Signed by the Partners—Departure of M’Tavish for the + Interior.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0056"> CHAPTER LV. -- Anxieties of Mr. Astor.—Memorial of the Northwest Company— + Tidings of a British Naval Expedition Against Astoria.—Mr. + Astor Applies to Government for Protection.—The Frigate + Adams Ordered to be Fitted Out.—Bright News From Astoria.— + Sunshine Suddenly Overclouded.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0057"> CHAPTER LVI. -- Affairs of State at Astoria.—M’Dougal Proposes for the Hand + of An Indian Princess—Matrimonial Embassy to Comcomly.— + Matrimonial Notions Among the Chinooks.—Settlements and + Pin-Money.—The Bringing Home of the Bride.—A Managing + Father-in-Law.—Arrival of Mr. Hunt at Astoria.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0058"> CHAPTER LVII. -- Voyage of the Beaver to New Archangel.—A Russian Governor.— + Roystering Rule.—The Tyranny of the Table—Hard Drinking + Bargainings.—Voyage to Kamtschatka.—Seal Catching + Establishment at St. Paul’s.—Storms at Sea.—Mr. Hunt Left + at the Sandwich Islands.—Transactions of the Beaver at + Canton.—Return of Mr. Hunt to Astoria.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0059"> CHAPTER LVIII. -- Arrangements Among the Partners—Mr. Hunt Sails in the + Albatross.—Arrives at the Marquesas—News of the Frigate + Phoebe.—Mr. Hunt Proceeds to the Sandwich Islands.—Voyage + of the Lark.—Her Shipwreck.—Transactions With the Natives + of the Sandwich Islands—Conduct of Tamaahmaah.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0060"> CHAPTER LIX. -- Arrival of M’Tavish at Astoria.—Conduct of His Followers.— + Negotiations of M’Dougal and M’Tavish.—Bargain for the + Transfer of Astoria—Doubts Entertained of the Loyalty of + M’Dougal.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0061"> CHAPTER LX. -- Arrival of a Strange Sail.—Agitation at Astoria.—Warlike + Offer of Comcomly.—Astoria Taken Possession of by the + British.—Indignation of Comcomly at the Conduct of His Son- + in-Law.</a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2HCH0062"> CHAPTER LXI. -- Arrival of the Brig Pedler at Astoria.—Breaking Up of the + Establishment.—Departure of Several of the Company.— + Tragical Story Told by the Squaw of Pierre Dorion.—Fate of + Reed and His Companions.—Attempts of Mr. Astor to Renew + His Enterprise.-Disappointment.—Concluding Observations + and Reflection.</a> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_APPE"> APPENDIX </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0066"> Draught of a Petition to Congress, sent by Mr. + Astor in 1812. </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0067"> AN ACT to enable the American Fur Company, + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0068"> Letter from Mr. Gallatin to Mr. Astor </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0069"> Notices of the Present State of the Fur Trade, + </a> + </p> + <p class="toc"> + <a href="#link2H_4_0070"> Height of the Rocky Mountains. </a> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + AUTHOR’S INTRODUCTION + </h2> + <p> + IN THE COURSE of occasional visits to Canada many years since, I became + intimately acquainted with some of the principal partners of the great + Northwest Fur Company, who at that time lived in genial style at Montreal, + and kept almost open house for the stranger. At their hospitable boards I + occasionally met with partners, and clerks, and hardy fur traders from the + interior posts; men who had passed years remote from civilized society, + among distant and savage tribes, and who had wonders to recount of their + wide and wild peregrinations, their hunting exploits, and their perilous + adventures and hair-breadth escapes among the Indians. I was at an age + when imagination lends its coloring to everything, and the stories of + these Sinbads of the wilderness made the life of a trapper and fur trader + perfect romance to me. I even meditated at one time a visit to the remote + posts of the company in the boats which annually ascended the lakes and + rivers, being thereto invited by one of the partners; and I have ever + since regretted that I was prevented by circumstances from carrying my + intention into effect. From those early impressions, the grand enterprise + of the great fur companies, and the hazardous errantry of their associates + in the wild parts of our vast continent, have always been themes of + charmed interest to me; and I have felt anxious to get at the details of + their adventurous expeditions among the savage tribes that peopled the + depths of the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + About two years ago, not long after my return from a tour upon the + prairies of the far West, I had a conversation with my friend, Mr. John + Jacob Astor, relative to that portion of our country, and to the + adventurous traders to Santa Fe and the Columbia. This led him to advert + to a great enterprise set on foot and conducted by him, between twenty and + thirty years since, having for its object to carry the fur trade across + the Rocky Mountains, and to sweep the shores of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + Finding that I took an interest in the subject, he expressed a regret that + the true nature and extent of his enterprise and its national character + and importance had never been understood, and a wish that I would + undertake to give an account of it. The suggestion struck upon the chord + of early associations already vibrating in my mind. It occurred to me that + a work of this kind might comprise a variety of those curious details, so + interesting to me, illustrative of the fur trade; of its remote and + adventurous enterprises, and of the various people, and tribes, and + castes, and characters, civilized and savage, affected by its operations. + The journals, and letters, also, of the adventurers by sea and land + employed by Mr. Astor in his comprehensive project, might throw light upon + portions of our country quite out of the track of ordinary travel, and as + yet but little known. I therefore felt disposed to undertake the task, + provided documents of sufficient extent and minuteness could be furnished + to me. All the papers relative to the enterprise were accordingly + submitted to my inspection. Among them were journals and letters narrating + expeditions by sea, and journeys to and fro across the Rocky Mountains by + routes before untravelled, together with documents illustrative of savage + and colonial life on the borders of the Pacific. With such material in + hand, I undertook the work. The trouble of rummaging among business + papers, and of collecting and collating facts from amidst tedious and + commonplace details, was spared me by my nephew, Pierre M. Irving, who + acted as my pioneer, and to whom I am greatly indebted for smoothing my + path and lightening my labors. + </p> + <p> + As the journals, on which I chiefly depended, had been kept by men of + business, intent upon the main object of the enterprise, and but little + versed in science, or curious about matters not immediately bearing upon + their interest, and as they were written often in moments of fatigue or + hurry, amid the inconveniences of wild encampments, they were often meagre + in their details, furnishing hints to provoke rather than narratives to + satisfy inquiry. I have, therefore, availed myself occasionally of + collateral lights supplied by the published journals of other travellers + who have visited the scenes described: such as Messrs. Lewis and Clarke, + Bradbury, Breckenridge, Long, Franchere, and Ross Cox, and make a general + acknowledgment of aid received from these quarters. + </p> + <p> + The work I here present to the public is necessarily of a rambling and + somewhat disjointed nature, comprising various expeditions and adventures + by land and sea. The facts, however, will prove to be linked and banded + together by one grand scheme, devised and conducted by a master spirit; + one set of characters, also, continues throughout, appearing occasionally, + though sometimes at long intervals, and the whole enterprise winds up by a + regular catastrophe; so that the work, without any labored attempt at + artificial construction, actually possesses much of that unity so much + sought after in works of fiction, and considered so important to the + interest of every history. + </p> + <p> + WASHINGTON IRVING <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Objects of American Enterprise.—Gold Hunting and Fur + Trading.—Their Effect on Colonization.—Early French Canadian + Settlers.—Ottawa and Huron Hunters.—An Indian Trading Camp. + Coureurs Des Bois, or Rangers of the Woods.—Their Roaming + Life.—Their Revels and Excesses.—Licensed Traders. + Missionaries.—Trading Posts.—Primitive French Canadian + Merchant.—His Establishment and Dependents.—British Canadian + Fur Merchant.—Origin of the Northwest Company.—Its + Constitution.—Its Internal Trade.—A Candidate for the + Company.—Privations in the Wilderness.—Northwest Clerks. + Northwest Partners.—Northwest Nabobs.—Feudal Notions in the + Forests.—The Lords of the Lakes.—Fort William.—Its + Parliamentary Hall and Banqueting Room.—Wassailing in the + Wilderness. +</pre> + <p> + TWO leading objects of commercial gain have given birth to wide and daring + enterprise in the early history of the Americas; the precious metals of + the South, and the rich peltries of the North. While the fiery and + magnificent Spaniard, inflamed with the mania for gold, has extended his + discoveries and conquests over those brilliant countries scorched by the + ardent sun of the tropics, the adroit and buoyant Frenchman, and the cool + and calculating Briton, have pursued the less splendid, but no less + lucrative, traffic in furs amidst the hyperborean regions of the Canadas, + until they have advanced even within the Arctic Circle. + </p> + <p> + These two pursuits have thus in a manner been the pioneers and precursors + of civilization. Without pausing on the borders, they have penetrated at + once, in defiance of difficulties and dangers, to the heart of savage + countries: laying open the hidden secrets of the wilderness; leading the + way to remote regions of beauty and fertility that might have remained + unexplored for ages, and beckoning after them the slow and pausing steps + of agriculture and civilization. + </p> + <p> + It was the fur trade, in fact, which gave early sustenance and vitality to + the great Canadian provinces. Being destitute of the precious metals, at + that time the leading objects of American enterprise, they were long + neglected by the parent country. The French adventurers, however, who had + settled on the banks of the St. Lawrence, soon found that in the rich + peltries of the interior, they had sources of wealth that might almost + rival the mines of Mexico and Peru. The Indians, as yet unacquainted with + the artificial value given to some descriptions of furs, in civilized + life, brought quantities of the most precious kinds and bartered them away + for European trinkets and cheap commodities. Immense profits were thus + made by the early traders, and the traffic was pursued with avidity. + </p> + <p> + As the valuable furs soon became scarce in the neighborhood of the + settlements, the Indians of the vicinity were stimulated to take a wider + range in their hunting expeditions; they were generally accompanied on + these expeditions by some of the traders or their dependents, who shared + in the toils and perils of the chase, and at the same time made themselves + acquainted with the best hunting and trapping grounds, and with the remote + tribes, whom they encouraged to bring their peltries to the settlements. + In this way the trade augmented, and was drawn from remote quarters to + Montreal. Every now and then a large body of Ottawas, Hurons, and other + tribes who hunted the countries bordering on the great lakes, would come + down in a squadron of light canoes, laden with beaver skins, and other + spoils of their year’s hunting. The canoes would be unladen, taken on + shore, and their contents disposed in order. A camp of birch bark would be + pitched outside of the town, and a kind of primitive fair opened with that + grave ceremonial so dear to the Indians. An audience would be demanded of + the governor-general, who would hold the conference with becoming state, + seated in an elbow-chair, with the Indians ranged in semicircles before + him, seated on the ground, and silently smoking their pipes. Speeches + would be made, presents exchanged, and the audience would break up in + universal good humor. + </p> + <p> + Now would ensue a brisk traffic with the merchants, and all Montreal would + be alive with naked Indians running from shop to shop, bargaining for + arms, kettles, knives, axes, blankets, bright-colored cloths, and other + articles of use or fancy; upon all which, says an old French writer, the + merchants were sure to clear at least two hundred per cent. There was no + money used in this traffic, and, after a time, all payment in spirituous + liquors was prohibited, in consequence of the frantic and frightful + excesses and bloody brawls which they were apt to occasion. + </p> + <p> + Their wants and caprices being supplied, they would take leave of the + governor, strike their tents, launch their canoes, and ply their way up + the Ottawa to the lakes. + </p> + <p> + A new and anomalous class of men gradually grew out of this trade. These + were called coureurs des bois, rangers of the woods; originally men who + had accompanied the Indians in their hunting expeditions, and made + themselves acquainted with remote tracts and tribes; and who now became, + as it were, peddlers of the wilderness. These men would set out from + Montreal with canoes well stocked with goods, with arms and ammunition, + and would make their way up the mazy and wandering rivers that interlace + the vast forests of the Canadas, coasting the most remote lakes, and + creating new wants and habitudes among the natives. Sometimes they + sojourned for months among them, assimilating to their tastes and habits + with the happy facility of Frenchmen, adopting in some degree the Indian + dress, and not unfrequently taking to themselves Indian wives. + </p> + <p> + Twelve, fifteen, eighteen months would often elapse without any tidings of + them, when they would come sweeping their way down the Ottawa in full + glee, their canoes laden down with packs of beaver skins. Now came their + turn for revelry and extravagance. “You would be amazed,” says an old + writer already quoted, “if you saw how lewd these peddlers are when they + return; how they feast and game, and how prodigal they are, not only in + their clothes, but upon their sweethearts. Such of them as are married + have the wisdom to retire to their own houses; but the bachelors act just + as an East Indiaman and pirates are wont to do; for they lavish, eat, + drink, and play all away as long as the goods hold out; and when these are + gone, they even sell their embroidery, their lace, and their clothes. This + done, they are forced upon a new voyage for subsistence.” + </p> + <p> + Many of these coureurs des bois became so accustomed to the Indian mode of + living, and the perfect freedom of the wilderness, that they lost relish + for civilization, and identified themselves with the savages among whom + they dwelt, or could only be distinguished from them by superior + licentiousness. Their conduct and example gradually corrupted the natives, + and impeded the works of the Catholic missionaries, who were at this time + prosecuting their pious labors in the wilds of Canada. + </p> + <p> + To check these abuses, and to protect the fur trade from various + irregularities practiced by these loose adventurers, an order was issued + by the French government prohibiting all persons, on pain of death, from + trading into the interior of the country without a license. + </p> + <p> + These licenses were granted in writing by the governor-general, and at + first were given only to persons of respectability; to gentlemen of broken + fortunes; to old officers of the army who had families to provide for; or + to their widows. Each license permitted the fitting out of two large + canoes with merchandise for the lakes, and no more than twenty-five + licenses were to be issued in one year. By degrees, however, private + licenses were also granted, and the number rapidly increased. Those who + did not choose to fit out the expeditions themselves, were permitted to + sell them to the merchants; these employed the coureurs des bois, or + rangers of the woods, to undertake the long voyages on shares, and thus + the abuses of the old system were revived and continued. + </p> + <p> + The pious missionaries employed by the Roman Catholic Church to convert + the Indians, did everything in their power to counteract the profligacy + caused and propagated by these men in the heart of the wilderness. The + Catholic chapel might often be seen planted beside the trading house, and + its spire surmounted by a cross, towering from the midst of an Indian + village, on the banks of a river or a lake. The missions had often a + beneficial effect on the simple sons of the forest, but had little power + over the renegades from civilization. + </p> + <p> + At length it was found necessary to establish fortified posts at the + confluence of the rivers and the lakes for the protection of the trade, + and the restraint of these profligates of the wilderness. The most + important of these was at Michilimackinac, situated at the strait of the + same name, which connects Lakes Huron and Michigan. It became the great + interior mart and place of deposit, and some of the regular merchants who + prosecuted the trade in person, under their licenses, formed + establishments here. This, too, was a rendezvous for the rangers of the + woods, as well those who came up with goods from Montreal as those who + returned with peltries from the interior. Here new expeditions were fitted + out and took their departure for Lake Michigan and the Mississippi; Lake + Superior and the Northwest; and here the peltries brought in return were + embarked for Montreal. + </p> + <p> + The French merchant at his trading post, in these primitive days of + Canada, was a kind of commercial patriarch. With the lax habits and easy + familiarity of his race, he had a little world of self-indulgence and + misrule around him. He had his clerks, canoe men, and retainers of all + kinds, who lived with him on terms of perfect sociability, always calling + him by his Christian name; he had his harem of Indian beauties, and his + troop of halfbreed children; nor was there ever wanting a louting train of + Indians, hanging about the establishment, eating and drinking at his + expense in the intervals of their hunting expeditions. + </p> + <p> + The Canadian traders, for a long time, had troublesome competitors in the + British merchants of New York, who inveigled the Indian hunters and the + coureurs des bois to their posts, and traded with them on more favorable + terms. A still more formidable opposition was organized in the Hudson’s + Bay Company, chartered by Charles II., in 1670, with the exclusive + privilege of establishing trading houses on the shores of that bay and its + tributary rivers; a privilege which they have maintained to the present + day. Between this British company and the French merchants of Canada, + feuds and contests arose about alleged infringements of territorial + limits, and acts of violence and bloodshed occurred between their agents. + </p> + <p> + In 1762, the French lost possession of Canada, and the trade fell + principally into the hands of British subjects. For a time, however, it + shrunk within narrow limits. The old coureurs des bois were broken up and + dispersed, or, where they could be met with, were slow to accustom + themselves to the habits and manners of their British employers. They + missed the freedom, indulgence, and familiarity of the old French trading + houses, and did not relish the sober exactness, reserve, and method of the + new-comers. The British traders, too, were ignorant of the country, and + distrustful of the natives. They had reason to be so. The treacherous and + bloody affairs of Detroit and Michilimackinac showed them the lurking + hostility cherished by the savages, who had too long been taught by the + French to regard them as enemies. + </p> + <p> + It was not until the year 1766, that the trade regained its old channels; + but it was then pursued with much avidity and emulation by individual + merchants, and soon transcended its former bounds. Expeditions were fitted + out by various persons from Montreal and Michilimackinac, and rivalships + and jealousies of course ensued. The trade was injured by their artifices + to outbid and undermine each other; the Indians were debauched by the sale + of spirituous liquors, which had been prohibited under the French rule. + Scenes of drunkeness, brutality, and brawl were the consequence, in the + Indian villages and around the trading houses; while bloody feuds took + place between rival trading parties when they happened to encounter each + other in the lawless depths of the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + To put an end to these sordid and ruinous contentions, several of the + principal merchants of Montreal entered into a partnership in the winter + of 1783, which was augmented by amalgamation with a rival company in 1787. + Thus was created the famous “Northwest Company,” which for a time held a + lordly sway over the wintry lakes and boundless forests of the Canadas, + almost equal to that of the East India Company over the voluptuous climes + and magnificent realms of the Orient. + </p> + <p> + The company consisted of twenty-three shareholders, or partners, but held + in its employ about two thousand persons as clerks, guides, interpreters, + and “voyageurs,” or boatmen. These were distributed at various trading + posts, established far and wide on the interior lakes and rivers, at + immense distances from each other, and in the heart of trackless countries + and savage tribes. + </p> + <p> + Several of the partners resided in Montreal and Quebec, to manage the main + concerns of the company. These were called agents, and were personages of + great weight and importance; the other partners took their stations at the + interior posts, where they remained throughout the winter, to superintend + the intercourse with the various tribes of Indians. They were thence + called wintering partners. + </p> + <p> + The goods destined for this wide and wandering traffic were put up at the + warehouses of the company in Montreal, and conveyed in batteaux, or boats + and canoes, up the river Attawa, or Ottowa, which falls into the St. + Lawrence near Montreal, and by other rivers and portages, to Lake + Nipising, Lake Huron, Lake Superior, and thence, by several chains of + great and small lakes, to Lake Winnipeg, Lake Athabasca, and the Great + Slave Lake. This singular and beautiful system of internal seas, which + renders an immense region of wilderness so accessible to the frail bark of + the Indian or the trader, was studded by the remote posts of the company, + where they carried on their traffic with the surrounding tribes. + </p> + <p> + The company, as we have shown, was at first a spontaneous association of + merchants; but, after it had been regularly organized, admission into it + became extremely difficult. A candidate had to enter, as it were, “before + the mast,” to undergo a long probation, and to rise slowly by his merits + and services. He began, at an early age, as a clerk, and served an + apprenticeship of seven years, for which he received one hundred pounds + sterling, was maintained at the expense of the company, and furnished with + suitable clothing and equipments. His probation was generally passed at + the interior trading posts; removed for years from civilized society, + leading a life almost as wild and precarious as the savages around him; + exposed to the severities of a northern winter, often suffering from a + scarcity of food, and sometimes destitute for a long time of both bread + and salt. When his apprenticeship had expired, he received a salary + according to his deserts, varying from eighty to one hundred and sixty + pounds sterling, and was now eligible to the great object of his ambition, + a partnership in the company; though years might yet elapse before he + attained to that enviable station. + </p> + <p> + Most of the clerks were young men of good families, from the Highlands of + Scotland, characterized by the perseverance, thrift, and fidelity of their + country, and fitted by their native hardihood to encounter the rigorous + climate of the North, and to endure the trials and privations of their + lot; though it must not be concealed that the constitutions of many of + them became impaired by the hardships of the wilderness, and their + stomachs injured by occasional famishing, and especially by the want of + bread and salt. Now and then, at an interval of years, they were permitted + to come down on a visit to the establishment at Montreal, to recruit their + health, and to have a taste of civilized life; and these were brilliant + spots in their existence. + </p> + <p> + As to the principal partners, or agents, who resided in Montreal and + Quebec, they formed a kind of commercial aristocracy, living in lordly and + hospitable style. Their posts, and the pleasures, dangers, adventures, and + mishaps which they had shared together in their wild wood life, had linked + them heartily to each other, so that they formed a convivial fraternity. + Few travellers that have visited Canada some thirty years since, in the + days of the M’Tavishes, the M’Gillivrays, the M’Kenzies, the Frobishers, + and the other magnates of the Northwest, when the company was in all its + glory, but must remember the round of feasting and revelry kept up among + these hyperborean nabobs. + </p> + <p> + Sometimes one or two partners, recently from the interior posts, would + make their appearance in New York, in the course of a tour of pleasure and + curiosity. On these occasions there was a degree of magnificence of the + purse about them, and a peculiar propensity to expenditure at the + goldsmith’s and jeweler’s for rings, chains, brooches, necklaces, jeweled + watches, and other rich trinkets, partly for their own wear, partly for + presents to their female acquaintances; a gorgeous prodigality, such as + was often to be noticed in former times in Southern planters and West + India creoles, when flush with the profits of their plantations. + </p> + <p> + To behold the Northwest Company in all its state and grandeur, however, it + was necessary to witness an annual gathering at the great interior place + of conference established at Fort William, near what is called the Grand + Portage, on Lake Superior. Here two or three of the leading partners from + Montreal proceeded once a year to meet the partners from the various + trading posts of the wilderness, to discuss the affairs of the company + during the preceding year, and to arrange plans for the future. + </p> + <p> + On these occasions might be seen the change since the unceremonious times + of the old French traders; now the aristocratic character of the Briton + shone forth magnificently, or rather the feudal spirit of the Highlander. + Every partner who had charge of an interior post, and a score of retainers + at his Command, felt like the chieftain of a Highland clan, and was almost + as important in the eyes of his dependents as of himself. To him a visit + to the grand conference at Fort William was a most important event, and he + repaired there as to a meeting of parliament. + </p> + <p> + The partners from Montreal, however, were the lords of the ascendant; + coming from the midst of luxurious and ostentatious life, they quite + eclipsed their compeers from the woods, whose forms and faces had been + battered and hardened by hard living and hard service, and whose garments + and equipments were all the worse for wear. Indeed, the partners from + below considered the whole dignity of the company as represented in their + persons, and conducted themselves in suitable style. They ascended the + rivers in great state, like sovereigns making a progress: or rather like + Highland chieftains navigating their subject lakes. They were wrapped in + rich furs, their huge canoes freighted with every convenience and luxury, + and manned by Canadian voyageurs, as obedient as Highland clansmen. They + carried up with them cooks and bakers, together with delicacies of every + kind, and abundance of choice wines for the banquets which attended this + great convocation. Happy were they, too, if they could meet with some + distinguished stranger; above all, some titled member of the British + nobility, to accompany them on this stately occasion, and grace their high + solemnities. + </p> + <p> + Fort William, the scene of this important annual meeting, was a + considerable village on the banks of Lake Superior. Here, in an immense + wooden building, was the great council hall, as also the banqueting + chamber, decorated with Indian arms and accoutrements, and the trophies of + the fur trade. The house swarmed at this time with traders and voyageurs, + some from Montreal, bound to the interior posts; some from the interior + posts, bound to Montreal. The councils were held in great state, for every + member felt as if sitting in parliament, and every retainer and dependent + looked up to the assemblage with awe, as to the House of Lords. There was + a vast deal of solemn deliberation, and hard Scottish reasoning, with an + occasional swell of pompous declamation. + </p> + <p> + These grave and weighty councils were alternated by huge feasts and + revels, like some of the old feasts described in Highland castles. The + tables in the great banqueting room groaned under the weight of game of + all kinds; of venison from the woods, and fish from the lakes, with + hunters’ delicacies, such as buffalos’ tongues, and beavers’ tails, and + various luxuries from Montreal, all served up by experienced cooks brought + for the purpose. There was no stint of generous wine, for it was a + hard-drinking period, a time of loyal toasts, and bacchanalian songs, and + brimming bumpers. + </p> + <p> + While the chiefs thus revelled in hall, and made the rafters resound with + bursts of loyalty and old Scottish songs, chanted in voices cracked and + sharpened by the northern blast, their merriment was echoed and prolonged + by a mongrel legion of retainers, Canadian voyageurs, half-breeds, Indian + hunters, and vagabond hangers-on who feasted sumptuously without on the + crumbs that fell from their table, and made the welkin ring with old + French ditties, mingled with Indian yelps and yellings. + </p> + <p> + Such was the Northwest Company in its powerful and prosperous days, when + it held a kind of feudal sway over a vast domain of lake and forest. We + are dwelling too long, perhaps, upon these individual pictures, endeared + to us by the associations of early life, when, as yet a stripling youth, + we have sat at the hospitable boards of the “mighty Northwesters,” the + lords of the ascendant at Montreal, and gazed with wondering and + inexperienced eye at the baronial wassailing, and listened with astonished + ear to their tales of hardship and adventures. It is one object of our + task, however, to present scenes of the rough life of the wilderness, and + we are tempted to fix these few memorials of a transient state of things + fast passing into oblivion; for the feudal state of Fort William is at an + end, its council chamber is silent and deserted; its banquet hall no + longer echoes to the burst of loyalty, or the “auld world” ditty; the + lords of the lakes and forests have passed away; and the hospitable + magnates of Montreal where are they? + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Rise of the Mackinaw Company.—Attempt of the American + Government to Counteract Foreign Influence Over the Indian + Tribes.—John Jacob Astor.—His Birth-Place.—His Arrival in + the United States.—What First Turned His Attention to the + Fur Trade.—His Character, Enterprises, and Success.—His + Communications With the American Government.—Origin of the + American Fur Company +</pre> + <p> + THE success of the Northwest Company stimulated further enterprise in this + opening and apparently boundless field of profit. The traffic of that + company lay principally in the high northern latitudes, while there were + immense regions to the south and west, known to abound with valuable + peltries; but which, as yet, had been but little explored by the fur + trader. A new association of British merchants was therefore formed, to + prosecute the trade in this direction. The chief factory was established + at the old emporium of Michilimackinac, from which place the association + took its name, and was commonly called the Mackinaw Company. + </p> + <p> + While the Northwesters continued to push their enterprises into the + hyperborean regions from their stronghold at Fort William, and to hold + almost sovereign sway over the tribes of the upper lakes and rivers, the + Mackinaw Company sent forth their light perogues and barks, by Green Bay, + Fox River, and the Wisconsin, to that areas artery of the West, the + Mississippi; and down that stream to all its tributary rivers. In this way + they hoped soon to monopolize the trade with all the tribes on the + southern and western waters, and of those vast tracts comprised in ancient + Louisiana. + </p> + <p> + The government of the United States began to view with a wary eye the + growing influence thus acquired by combinations of foreigners, over the + aboriginal tribes inhabiting its territories, and endeavored to counteract + it. For this purpose, as early as 1796, the government sent out agents to + establish rival trading houses on the frontier, so as to supply the wants + of the Indians, to link their interests and feelings with those of the + people of the United States, and to divert this important branch of trade + into national channels. + </p> + <p> + The expedition, however, was unsuccessful, as most commercial expedients + are prone to be, where the dull patronage of government is counted upon to + outvie the keen activity of private enterprise. What government failed to + effect, however, with all its patronage and all its agents, was at length + brought about by the enterprise and perseverance of a single merchant, one + of its adopted citizens; and this brings us to speak of the individual + whose enterprise is the especial subject of the following pages; a man + whose name and character are worthy of being enrolled in the history of + commerce, as illustrating its noblest aims and soundest maxims. A few + brief anecdotes of his early life, and of the circumstances which first + determined him to the branch of commerce of which we are treating, cannot + be but interesting. + </p> + <p> + John Jacob Astor, the individual in question, was born in the honest + little German village of Waldorf, near Heidelberg, on the banks of the + Rhine. He was brought up in the simplicity of rural life, but, while yet a + mere stripling, left his home, and launched himself amid the busy scenes + of London, having had, from his very boyhood, a singular presentiment that + he would ultimately arrive at great fortune. + </p> + <p> + At the close of the American Revolution he was still in London, and scarce + on the threshold of active life. An elder brother had been for some few + years resident in the United States, and Mr. Astor determined to follow + him, and to seek his fortunes in the rising country. Investing a small sum + which he had amassed since leaving his native village, in merchandise + suited to the American market, he embarked, in the month of November, + 1783, in a ship bound to Baltimore, and arrived in Hampton Roads in the + month of January. The winter was extremely severe, and the ship, with many + others, was detained by the ice in and about Chesapeake Bay for nearly + three months. + </p> + <p> + During this period, the passengers of the various ships used occasionally + to go on shore, and mingle sociably together. In this way Mr. Astor became + acquainted with a countryman of his, a furrier by trade. Having had a + previous impression that this might be a lucrative trade in the New World, + he made many inquiries of his new acquaintance on the subject, who + cheerfully gave him all the information in his power as to the quality and + value of different furs, and the mode of carrying on the traffic. He + subsequently accompanied him to New York, and, by his advice, Mr. Astor + was induced to invest the proceeds of his merchandise in furs. With these + he sailed from New York to London in 1784, disposed of them + advantageously, made himself further acquainted with the course of the + trade, and returned the same year to New York, with a view to settle in + the United States. + </p> + <p> + He now devoted himself to the branch of commerce with which he had thus + casually been made acquainted. He began his career, of course, on the + narrowest scale; but he brought to the task a persevering industry, rigid + economy, and strict integrity. To these were added an aspiring spirit that + always looked upwards; a genius bold, fertile, and expansive; a sagacity + quick to grasp and convert every circumstance to its advantage, and a + singular and never wavering confidence of signal success. + </p> + <p> + As yet, trade in peltries was not organized in the United States, and + could not be said to form a regular line of business. Furs and skins were + casually collected by the country traders in their dealings with the + Indians or the white hunters, but the main supply was derived from Canada. + As Mr. Astor’s means increased, he made annual visits to Montreal, where + he purchased furs from the houses at that place engaged in the trade. + These he shipped from Canada to London, no direct trade being allowed from + that colony to any but the mother country. + </p> + <p> + In 1794 or ‘95, a treaty with Great Britain removed the restrictions + imposed upon the trade with the colonies, and opened a direct commercial + intercourse between Canada and the United States. Mr. Astor was in London + at the time, and immediately made a contract with the agents of the + Northwest Company for furs. He was now enabled to import them from + Montreal into the United States for the home supply, and to be shipped + thence to different parts of Europe, as well as to China, which has ever + been the best market for the richest and finest kinds of peltry. + </p> + <p> + The treaty in question provided, likewise, that the military posts + occupied by the British within the territorial limits of the United + States, should be surrendered. Accordingly, Oswego, Niagara, Detroit, + Michilimackinac, and other posts on the American side of the lakes, were + given up. An opening was thus made for the American merchant to trade on + the confines of Canada, and within the territories of the United States. + After an interval of some years, about 1807, Mr. Astor embarked in this + trade on his own account. His capital and resources had by this time + greatly augmented, and he had risen from small beginnings to take his + place among the first merchants and financiers of the country. His genius + had ever been in advance of his circumstances, prompting him to new and + wide fields of enterprise beyond the scope of ordinary merchants. With all + his enterprise and resources however, he soon found the power and + influence of the Michilimackinac (or Mackinaw) Company too great for him, + having engrossed most of the trade within the American borders. + </p> + <p> + A plan had to be devised to enable him to enter into successful + competition. He was aware of the wish of the American government, already + stated, that the fur trade within its boundaries should be in the hands of + American citizens, and of the ineffectual measures it had taken to + accomplish that object. He now offered, if aided and protected by + government, to turn the whole of that trade into American channels. He was + invited to unfold his plans to government, and they were warmly approved, + though the executive could give no direct aid. + </p> + <p> + Thus countenanced, however, he obtained, in 1809, a charter from the + legislature of the State of New York, incorporating a company under the + name of “The American Fur Company,” with a capital of one million of + dollars, with the privilege of increasing it to two millions. The capital + was furnished by himself he, in fact, constituted the company; for, though + he had a board of directors, they were merely nominal; the whole business + was conducted on his plans and with his resources, but he preferred to do + so under the imposing and formidable aspect of a corporation, rather than + in his individual name, and his policy was sagacious and effective. + </p> + <p> + As the Mackinaw Company still continued its rivalry, and as the fur trade + would not advantageously admit of competition, he made a new arrangement + in 1811, by which, in conjunction with certain partners of the Northwest + Company, and other persons engaged in the fur trade, he bought out the + Mackinaw Company, and merged that and the American Fur Company into a new + association, to be called the “Southwest Company.” This he likewise did + with the privity and approbation of the American government. + </p> + <p> + By this arrangement Mr. Astor became proprietor of one half of the Indian + establishments and goods which the Mackinaw Company had within the + territory of the Indian country in the United States, and it was + understood that the whole was to be surrendered into his hands at the + expiration of five years, on condition that the American Company would not + trade within the British dominions. + </p> + <p> + Unluckily, the war which broke out in 1812 between Great Britain and the + United States suspended the association; and, after the war, it was + entirely dissolved; Congress having passed a law prohibiting the British + fur traders from prosecuting their enterprises within the territories of + the United States. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Fur Trade in the Pacific—American Coasting Voyages—Russian + Enterprises.—Discovery of the Columbia River.—Carver’s + Project to Found a Settlement There.—Mackenzie’s + Expedition.—Lewis and Clarke’s Journey Across the Rocky + Mountains—Mr. Astor’s Grand Commercial Scheme.—His + Correspondence on the Subject With Mr. Jefferson.—His + Negotiations With the Northwest Company.—His Steps to Carry + His Scheme Into Effect. +</pre> + <p> + WHILE the various companies we have noticed were pushing their enterprises + far and wide in the wilds of Canada, and along the course of the great + western waters, other adventurers, intent on the same objects, were + traversing the watery wastes of the Pacific and skirting the northwest + coast of America. The last voyage of that renowned but unfortunate + discoverer, Captain Cook, had made known the vast quantities of the + sea-otter to be found along that coast, and the immense prices to be + obtained for its fur in China. It was as if a new gold coast had been + discovered. Individuals from various countries dashed into this lucrative + traffic, so that in the year 1792, there were twenty-one vessels under + different flags, plying along the coast and trading with the natives. The + greater part of them were American, and owned by Boston merchants. They + generally remained on the coast and about the adjacent seas, for two + years, carrying on as wandering and adventurous a commerce on the water as + did the traders and trappers on land. Their trade extended along the whole + coast from California to the high northern latitudes. They would run in + near shore, anchor, and wait for the natives to come off in their canoes + with peltries. The trade exhausted at one place, they would up anchor and + off to another. In this way they would consume the summer, and when autumn + came on, would run down to the Sandwich Islands and winter in some + friendly and plentiful harbor. In the following year they would resume + their summer trade, commencing at California and proceeding north: and, + having in the course of the two seasons collected a sufficient cargo of + peltries, would make the best of their way to China. Here they would sell + their furs, take in teas, nankeens, and other merchandise, and return to + Boston, after an absence of two or three years. + </p> + <p> + The people, however, who entered most extensively and effectively in the + fur trade of the Pacific, were the Russians. Instead of making casual + voyages, in transient ships, they established regular trading houses in + the high latitudes, along the northwest coast of America, and upon the + chain of the Aleutian Islands between Kamtschatka and the promontory of + Alaska. + </p> + <p> + To promote and protect these enterprises, a company was incorporated by + the Russian government with exclusive privileges, and a capital of two + hundred and sixty thousand pounds sterling; and the sovereignty of that + part of the American continent, along the coast of which the posts had + been established, was claimed by the Russian crown, on the plea that the + land had been discovered and occupied by its subjects. + </p> + <p> + As China was the grand mart for the furs collected in these quarters, the + Russians had the advantage over their competitors in the trade. The latter + had to take their peltries to Canton, which, however, was a mere receiving + mart, from whence they had to be distributed over the interior of the + empire and sent to the northern parts, where there was the chief + consumption. The Russians, on the contrary, carried their furs, by a + shorter voyage, directly to the northern parts of the Chinese empire; thus + being able to afford them in the market without the additional cost of + internal transportation. + </p> + <p> + We come now to the immediate field of operation of the great enterprise we + have undertaken to illustrate. + </p> + <p> + Among the American ships which traded along the northwest coast in 1792, + was the Columbia, Captain Gray, of Boston. In the course of her voyage she + discovered the mouth of a large river in lat. 46 19’ north. Entering it + with some difficulty, on account of sand-bars and breakers, she came to + anchor in a spacious bay. A boat was well manned, and sent on shore to a + village on the beach, but all the inhabitants fled excepting the aged and + infirm. The kind manner in which these were treated, and the presents + given them, gradually lured back the others, and a friendly intercourse + took place. They had never seen a ship or a white man. When they had first + descried the Columbia, they had supposed it a floating island; then some + monster of the deep; but when they saw the boat putting for shore with + human beings on board, they considered them cannibals sent by the Great + Spirit to ravage the country and devour the inhabitants. Captain Gray did + not ascend the river farther than the bay in question, which continues to + bear his name. After putting to sea, he fell in with the celebrated + discoverer, Vancouver, and informed him of his discovery, furnished him + with a chart which he had made of the river. Vancouver visited the river, + and his lieutenant, Broughton, explored it by the aid of Captain Gray’s + chart; ascending it upwards of one hundred miles, until within view of a + snowy mountain, to which he gave the name of Mt. Hood, which it still + retains. + </p> + <p> + The existence of this river, however, was known long before the visits of + Gray and Vancouver, but the information concerning it was vague and + indefinite, being gathered from the reports of Indians. It was spoken of + by travellers as the Oregon, and as the Great River of the West. A Spanish + ship is said to have been wrecked at the mouth, several of the crew of + which lived for some time among the natives. The Columbia, however, is + believed to be the first ship that made a regular discovery and anchored + within its waters, and it has since generally borne the name of that + vessel. As early as 1763, shortly after the acquisition of the Canadas by + Great Britain, Captain Jonathan Carver, who had been in the British + provincial army, projected a journey across the continent between the + forty-third and forty-sixth degrees of northern latitude to the shores of + the Pacific Ocean. His objects were to ascertain the breadth of the + continent at its broadest part, and to determine on some place on the + shores of the Pacific, where government might establish a post to + facilitate the discovery of a northwest passage, or a communication + between Hudson’s Bay and the Pacific Ocean. This place he presumed would + be somewhere about the Straits of Annian, at which point he supposed the + Oregon disembogued itself. It was his opinion, also, that a settlement on + this extremity of America would disclose new sources of trade, promote + many useful discoveries, and open a more direct communication with China + and the English settlements in the East Indies, than that by the Cape of + Good Hope or the Straits of Magellan. * This enterprising and intrepid + traveller was twice baffled in individual efforts to accomplish this great + journey. In 1774, he was joined in the scheme by Richard Whitworth, a + member of Parliament, and a man of wealth. Their enterprise was projected + on a broad and bold plan. They were to take with them fifty or sixty men, + artificers and mariners. With these they were to make their way up one of + the branches of the Missouri, explore the mountains for the source of the + Oregon, or River of the West, and sail down that river to its supposed + exit, near the Straits of Annian. Here they were to erect a fort, and + build the vessels necessary to carry their discoveries by sea into effect. + Their plan had the sanction of the British government, and grants and + other requisites were nearly completed, when the breaking out of the + American Revolution once more defeated the undertaking. ** + </p> + <p> + The expedition of Sir Alexander Mackenzie in 1793, across the continent to + the Pacific Ocean, which he reached in lat. 52 20’ 48”, again suggested + the possibility of linking together the trade of both sides of the + continent. In lat. 52 30’ he had descended a river for some distance which + flowed towards the south, and wag called by the natives Tacoutche Tesse, + and which he erroneously supposed to be the Columbia. It was afterwards + ascertained that it emptied itself in lat. 49 degrees, whereas the mouth + of the Columbia is about three degrees further south. + </p> + <p> + When Mackenzie some years subsequently published an account of his + expeditions, he suggested the policy of opening an intercourse between the + Atlantic and Pacific oceans, and forming regular establishments through + the interior and at both extremes, as well as along the coasts and + islands. By this means, he observed, the entire command of the fur trade + of North America might be obtained from lat. 48 north to the pole, + excepting that portion held by the Russians, for as to the American + adventurers who had hitherto enjoyed the traffic along the northwest + coast, they would instantly disappear, he added, before a well regulated + trade. + </p> + <p> + A scheme of this kind, however, was too vast and hazardous for individual + enterprise; it could only be undertaken by a company under the sanction + and protection of a government; and as there might be a clashing of claims + between the Hudson’s Bay and Northwest Company, the one holding by right + of charter, the other by right of possession, he proposed that the two + comparties should coalesce in this great undertaking. The long-cherished + jealousies of these two companies, however, were too deep and strong to + allow them to listen to such counsel. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime the attention of the American government was attracted to + the subject, and the memorable expedition under Messrs. Lewis and Clarke + fitted out. These gentlemen, in 1804, accomplished the enterprise which + had been projected by Carver and Whitworth in 1774. They ascended the + Missouri, passed through the stupendous gates of the Rocky Mountains, + hitherto unknown to white men; discovered and explored the upper waters of + the Columbia, and followed that river down to its mouth, where their + countryman, Gray, had anchored about twelve years previously. Here they + passed the winter, and returned across the mountains in the following + spring. The reports published by them of their expedition demonstrated the + practicability of establishing a line of communication across the + continent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. + </p> + <p> + It was then that the idea presented itself to the mind of Mr. Astor, of + grasping with his individual hand this great enterprise, which for years + had been dubiously yet desirously contemplated by powerful associations + and maternal governments. For some time he revolved the idea in his mind, + gradually extending and maturing his plans as his means of executing them + augmented. The main feature of his scheme was to establish a line of + trading posts along the Missouri and the Columbia, to the mouth of the + latter, where was to be founded the chief trading house or mart. Inferior + posts would be established in the interior, and on all the tributary + streams of the Columbia, to trade with the Indians; these posts would draw + their supplies from the main establishment, and bring to it the peltries + they collected. Coasting craft would be built and fitted out, also at the + mouth of the Columbia, to trade, at favorable seasons, all along the + northwest coast, and return, with the proceeds of their voyages, to this + place of deposit. Thus all the Indian trade, both of the interior and the + coast, would converge to this point, and thence derive its sustenance. + </p> + <p> + A ship was to be sent annually from New York to this main establishment + with reinforcements and supplies, and with merchandise suited to the + trade. It would take on board the furs collected during the preceding + year, carry them to Canton, invest the proceeds in the rich merchandise of + China, and return thus freighted to New York. As, in extending the + American trade along the coast to the northward, it might be brought into + the vicinity of the Russian Fur Company, and produce a hostile rivalry, it + was part of the plan of Mr. Astor to conciliate the good-will of that + company by the most amicable and beneficial arrangements. The Russian + establishment was chiefly dependent for its supplies upon transient + trading vessels from the United States. These vessels, however, were often + of more harm than advantage. Being owned by private adventurers, or casual + voyagers, who cared only for present profit, and had no interest in the + permanent prosperity of the trade, they were reckless in their dealings + with the natives, and made no scruple of supplying them with fire-arms. In + this way several fierce tribes in the vicinity of the Russian posts, or + within the range of their trading excursions, were furnished with deadly + means of warfare, and rendered troublesome and dangerous neighbors. + </p> + <p> + The Russian government had made representations to that of the United + States of these malpractices on the part of its citizens, and urged to + have this traffic in arms prohibited; but, as it did not infringe any + municipal law, our government could not interfere. Yet, still it regarded, + with solicitude, a traffic which, if persisted in, might give offence to + Russia, at that time almost the only friendly power to us. In this dilemma + the government had applied to Mr. Astor, as one conversant in this branch + of trade, for information that might point out a way to remedy the evil. + This circumstance had suggested to him the idea of supplying the Russian + establishment regularly by means of the annual ship that should visit the + settlement at the mouth of the Columbia (or Oregon); by this means the + casual trading vessels would be excluded from those parts of the coast + where their malpractices were so injurious to the Russians. + </p> + <p> + Such is a brief outline of the enterprise projected by Mr. Astor, but + which continually expanded in his mind. Indeed it is due to him to say + that he was not actuated by mere motives of individual profit. He was + already wealthy beyond the ordinary desires of man, but he now aspired to + that honorable fame which is awarded to men of similar scope of mind, who + by their great commercial enterprises have enriched nations, peopled + wildernesses, and extended the bounds of empire. He considered his + projected establishment at the mouth of the Columbia as the emporium to an + immense commerce; as a colony that would form the germ of a wide + civilization; that would, in fact, carry the American population across + the Rocky Mountains and spread it along the shores of the Pacific, as it + already animated the shores of the Atlantic. As Mr. Astor, by the + magnitude of his commercial and financial relations, and the vigor and + scope of his self-taught mind, had elevated himself into the consideration + of government and the communion and correspondence with leading statesmen, + he, at an early period, communicated his schemes to President Jefferson, + soliciting the countenance of government. How highly they were esteemed by + that eminent man, we may judge by the following passage, written by him + some time afterwards. + </p> + <p> + “I remember well having invited your proposition on this subject,*** and + encouraged it with the assurance of every facility and protection which + the government could properly afford. I considered, as a great public + acquisition, the commencement of a settlement on that point of the western + coast of America, and looked forward with gratification to the time when + its descendants should have spread themselves through the whole length of + that coast, covering it with free and independent Americans, unconnected + with us but by the ties of blood and interest, and enjoying like us the + rights of self-government.” + </p> + <p> + The cabinet joined with Mr. Jefferson in warm approbation of the plan, and + held out assurance of every protection that could, consistently with + general policy, be afforded. Mr. Astor now prepared to carry his scheme + into prompt execution. He had some competition, however, to apprehend and + guard against. The Northwest Company, acting feebly and partially upon the + suggestions of its former agent, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, had pushed one + or two advanced trading posts across the Rocky Mountains, into a tract of + country visited by that enterprising traveller, and since named New + Caledonia. This tract lay about two degrees north of the Columbia, and + intervened between the territories of the United States and those of + Russia. Its length was about five hundred and fifty miles, and its + breadth, from the mountains to the Pacific, from three hundred to three + hundred and fifty geographic miles. + </p> + <p> + Should the Northwest Company persist in extending their trade in that + quarter, their competition might be of serious detriment to the plans of + Mr. Astor. It is true they would contend with him to a vast disadvantage, + from the checks and restrictions to which they were subjected. They were + straitened on one side by the rivalry of the Hudson’s Bay Company; then + they had no good post on the Pacific where they could receive supplies by + sea for their establishments beyond the mountains; nor, if they had one, + could they ship their furs thence to China, that great mart for peltries; + the Chinese trade being comprised in the monopoly of the East India + Company. Their posts beyond the mountains had to be supplied in yearly + expeditions, like caravans, from Montreal, and the furs conveyed back in + the same way, by long, precarious, and expensive routes, across the + continent. Mr. Astor, on the contrary, would be able to supply his + proposed establishment at the mouth of the Columbia by sea, and to ship + the furs collected there directly to China, so as to undersell the + Northwest Company in the great Chinese market. + </p> + <p> + Still, the competition of two rival companies west of the Rocky Mountains + could not but prove detrimental to both, and fraught with those evils, + both to the trade and to the Indians, that had attended similar rivalries + in the Canadas. To prevent any contest of the kind, therefore, he made + known his plan to the agents of the Northwest Company, and proposed to + interest them, to the extent of one third, in the trade thus to be opened. + Some correspondence and negotiation ensued. The company were aware of the + advantages which would be possessed by Mr. Astor should he be able to + carry his scheme into effect; but they anticipated a monopoly of the trade + beyond the mountains by their establishments in New Caledonia, and were + loth to share it with an individual who had already proved a formidable + competitor in the Atlantic trade. They hoped, too, by a timely move, to + secure the mouth of the Columbia before Mr. Astor would be able to put his + plans into operation; and, that key to the internal trade once in their + possession, the whole country would be at their command. After some + negotiation and delay, therefore, they declined the proposition that had + been made to them, but subsequently despatched a party for the mouth of + the Columbia, to establish a post there before any expedition sent out by + Mr. Astor might arrive. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime Mr. Astor, finding his overtures rejected, proceeded + fearlessly to execute his enterprise in face of the whole power of the + Northwest Company. His main establishment once planted at the mouth of the + Columbia, he looked with confidence to ultimate success. Being able to + reinforce and supply it amply by sea, he would push his interior posts in + every direction up the rivers and along the coast; supplying the natives + at a lower rate, and thus gradually obliging the Northwest Company to give + up the competition, relinquish New Caledonia, and retire to the other side + of the mountains. He would then have possession of the trade, not merely + of the Columbia and its tributaries, but of the regions farther north, + quite to the Russian possessions. Such was a part of his brilliant and + comprehensive plan. + </p> + <p> + He now proceeded, with all diligence, to procure proper agents and + coadjutors, habituated to the Indian trade and to the life of the + wilderness. Among the clerks of the Northwest Company were several of + great capacity and experience, who had served out their probationary + terms, but who, either through lack of interest and influence, or a want + of vacancies, had not been promoted. They were consequently much + dissatisfied, and ready for any employment in which their talents and + acquirements might be turned to better account. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Astor made his overtures to several of these persons, and three of + them entered into his views. One of these, Mr. Alexander M’Kay, had + accompanied Sir Alexander Mackenzie in both of his expeditions to the + northwest coast of America in 1789 and 1793. The other two were Duncan + M’Dougal and Donald M’Kenzie. To these were subsequently added Mr. Wilson + Price Hunt, of New Jersey. As this gentleman was a native born citizen of + the United States, a person of great probity and worth, he was selected by + Mr. Astor to be his chief agent, and to represent him in the contemplated + establishment. + </p> + <p> + On the 23d of June, 1810, articles of agreement were entered into between + Mr. Astor and those four gentlemen, acting for themselves and for the + several persons who had already agreed to become, or should thereafter + become, associated under the firm of “The Pacific Fur Company.” + </p> + <p> + According to these articles, Mr. Astor was to be at the head of the + company, and to manage its affairs in New York. He was to furnish vessels, + goods, provisions, arms, ammunition, and all other requisites for the + enterprise at first cost and charges, provided that they did not, at any + time, involve an advance of more than four hundred thousand dollars. + </p> + <p> + The stock of the company was to be divided into a hundred equal shares, + with the profits accruing thereon. Fifty shares were to be at the + disposition of Mr. Astor, and the other fifty to be divided among the + partners and their associates. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Astor was to have the privilege of introducing other persons into the + connection as partners, two of whom, at least, should be conversant with + the Indian trade, and none of them entitled to more than three shares. + </p> + <p> + A general meeting of the company was to be held annually at Columbia + River, for the investigation and regulation of its affairs; at which + absent members might be represented, and might vote by proxy under certain + specified conditions. + </p> + <p> + The association, if successful, was to continue for twenty years; but the + parties had full power to abandon and dissolve it within the first five + years, should it be found unprofitable. For this term Mr. Astor covenanted + to bear all the loss that might be incurred; after which it was to be + borne by all the partners, in proportion to their respective shares. + </p> + <p> + The parties of the second part were to execute faithfully such duties as + might be assigned to them by a majority of the company on the northwest + coast, and to repair to such place or places as the majority might direct. + </p> + <p> + An agent, appointed for the term of five years, was to reside at the + principal establishment on the northwest coast, and Wilson Price Hunt was + the one chosen for the first term. Should the interests of the concern at + any time require his absence, a person was to be appointed, in general + meeting, to take his place. + </p> + <p> + Such were the leading conditions of this association; we shall now proceed + to relate the various hardy and eventful expeditions, by sea and land, to + which it gave rise. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Carver’s Travels, Introd. b. iii. Philad. 1796. + + **Carver’s Travels, p. 360. + + *** On this point Mr. Jefferson’s memory was in error. The + proposition alluded to was the one, already mentioned, for + the establishment of an American Fur Company in the Atlantic + States. The great enterprise beyond the mountains, that was + to sweep the shores of the Pacific, originated in the mind + of Mr. Astor, and was proposed by him to the government. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Two Expeditions Set on Foot.—The Tonquin and Her Crew.— + Captain Thorn, His Character.—The Partners and Clerks— + Canadian Voyageurs, Their Habits, Employments, Dress, + Character, Songs—Expedition of a Canadian Boat and Its Crew + by Land and Water.—Arrival at New York.—Preparations for a + Sea Voyage.—Northwest Braggarts.—Underhand Precautions— + Letter of Instructions. +</pre> + <p> + IN prosecuting his great scheme of commerce and colonization, two + expeditions were devised by Mr. Astor, one by sea, the other by land. The + former was to carry out the people, stores, ammunition, and merchandise, + requisite for establishing a fortified trading post at the mouth of + Columbia River. The latter, conducted by Mr. Hunt, was to proceed up the + Missouri, and across the Rocky Mountains, to the same point; exploring a + line of communication across the continent and noting the places where + interior trading posts might be established. The expedition by sea is the + one which comes first under consideration. + </p> + <p> + A fine ship was provided called the Tonquin, of two hundred and ninety + tons burden, mounting ten guns, with a crew of twenty men. She carried an + assortment of merchandise for trading with the natives of the seaboard and + of the interior, together with the frame of a schooner, to be employed in + the coasting trade. Seeds also were provided for the cultivation of the + soil, and nothing was neglected for the necessary supply of the + establishment. The command of the ship was intrusted to Jonathan Thorn, of + New York, a lieutenant in the United States navy, on leave of absence. He + was a man of courage and firmness, who had distinguished himself in our + Tripolitan war, and, from being accustomed to naval discipline, was + considered by Mr. Astor as well fitted to take charge of an expedition of + the kind. Four of the partners were to embark in the ship, namely, Messrs. + M’Kay, M’Dougal, David Stuart, and his nephew, Robert Stuart. Mr. M’Dougal + was empowered by Mr. Astor to act as his proxy in the absence of Mr. Hunt, + to vote for him and in his name, on any question that might come before + any meeting of the persons interested in the voyage. + </p> + <p> + Besides the partners, there were twelve clerks to go out in the ship, + several of them natives of Canada, who had some experience in the Indian + trade. They were bound to the service of the company for five years, at + the rate of one hundred dollars a year, payable at the expiration of the + term, and an annual equipment of clothing to the amount of forty dollars. + In case of ill conduct they were liable to forfeit their wages and be + dismissed; but, should they acquit themselves well, the confident + expectation was held out to them of promotion, and partnership. Their + interests were thus, to some extent, identified with those of the company. + </p> + <p> + Several artisans were likewise to sail in the ship, for the supply of the + colony; but the most peculiar and characteristic part of this motley + embarkation consisted of thirteen Canadian “voyageurs,” who had enlisted + for five years. As this class of functionaries will continually recur in + the course of the following narrations, and as they form one of those + distinct and strongly marked castes or orders of people, springing up in + this vast continent out of geographical circumstances, or the varied + pursuits, habitudes, and origins of its population, we shall sketch a few + of their characteristics for the information of the reader. + </p> + <p> + The “voyageurs” form a kind of confraternity in the Canadas, like the + arrieros, or carriers of Spain, and, like them, are employed in long + internal expeditions of travel and traffic: with this difference, that the + arrieros travel by land, the voyageurs by water; the former with mules and + horses, the latter with batteaux and canoes. The voyageurs may be said to + have sprung up out of the fur trade, having originally been employed by + the early French merchants in their trading expeditions through the + labyrinth of rivers and lakes of the boundless interior. They were coeval + with the coureurs des bois, or rangers of the woods, already noticed, and, + like them, in the intervals of their long, arduous, and laborious + expeditions, were prone to pass their time in idleness and revelry about + the trading posts or settlements; squandering their hard earnings in + heedless conviviality, and rivaling their neighbors, the Indians, in + indolent indulgence and an imprudent disregard of the morrow. + </p> + <p> + When Canada passed under British domination, and the old French trading + houses were broken up, the voyageurs, like the coureurs des bois, were for + a time disheartened and disconsolate, and with difficulty could reconcile + themselves to the service of the new-comers, so different in habits, + manners, and language from their former employers. By degrees, however, + they became accustomed to the change, and at length came to consider the + British fur traders, and especially the members of the Northwest Company, + as the legitimate lords of creation. + </p> + <p> + The dress of these people is generally half civilized, half savage. They + wear a capot or surcoat, made of a blanket, a striped cotton shirt, cloth + trousers, or leathern leggins, moccasins of deer-skin, and a belt of + variegated worsted, from which are suspended the knife, tobacco-pouch, and + other implements. Their language is of the same piebald character, being a + French patois, embroidered with Indian and English words and phrases. + </p> + <p> + The lives of the voyageurs are passed in wild and extensive rovings, in + the service of individuals, but more especially of the fur traders. They + are generally of French descent, and inherit much of the gayety and + lightness of heart of their ancestors, being full of anecdote and song, + and ever ready for the dance. They inherit, too, a fund of civility and + complaisance; and, instead of that hardness and grossness which men in + laborious life are apt to indulge towards each other, they are mutually + obliging and accommodating; interchanging kind offices, yielding each + other assistance and comfort in every emergency, and using the familiar + appellations of “cousin” and “brother” when there is in fact no + relationship. Their natural good-will is probably heightened by a + community of adventure and hardship in their precarious and wandering + life. + </p> + <p> + No men are more submissive to their leaders and employers, more capable of + enduring hardship, or more good-humored under privations. Never are they + so happy as when on long and rough expeditions, toiling up rivers or + coasting lakes; encamping at night on the borders, gossiping round their + fires, and bivouacking in the open air. They are dextrous boatmen, + vigorous and adroit with the oar and paddle, and will row from morning + until night without a murmur. The steersman often sings an old + traditionary French song, with some regular burden in which they all join, + keeping time with their oars; if at any time they flag in spirits or relax + in exertion, it is but necessary to strike up a song of the kind to put + them all in fresh spirits and activity. The Canadian waters are vocal with + these little French chansons, that have been echoed from mouth to mouth + and transmitted from father to son, from the earliest days of the colony; + and it has a pleasing effect, in a still golden summer evening, to see a + batteau gliding across the bosom of a lake and dipping its oars to the + cadence of these quaint old ditties, or sweeping along in full chorus on a + bright sunny morning, down the transparent current of one of the Canada + rivers. + </p> + <p> + But we are talking of things that are fast fading away! The march of + mechanical invention is driving everything poetical before it. The + steamboats, which are fast dispelling the wildness and romance of our + lakes and rivers, and aiding to subdue the world into commonplace, are + proving as fatal to the race of the Canadian voyageurs as they have been + to that of the boatmen of the Mississippi. Their glory is departed. They + are no longer the lords of our internal seas, and the great navigators of + the wilderness. Some of them may still occasionally be seen coasting the + lower lakes with their frail barks, and pitching their camps and lighting + their fires upon the shores; but their range is fast contracting to those + remote waters and shallow and obstructed rivers unvisited by the + steamboat. In the course of years they will gradually disappear; their + songs will die away like the echoes they once awakened, and the Canadian + voyageurs will become a forgotten race, or remembered, like their + associates, the Indians, among the poetical images of past times, and as + themes for local and romantic associations. + </p> + <p> + An instance of the buoyant temperament and the professional pride of these + people was furnished in the gay and braggart style in which they arrived + at New York to join the enterprise. They were determined to regale and + astonish the people of the “States” with the sight of a Canadian boat and + a Canadian crew. They accordingly fitted up a large but light bark canoe, + such as is used in the fur trade; transported it in a wagon from the banks + of the St. Lawrence to the shores of Lake Champlain; traversed the lake in + it, from end to end; hoisted it again in a wagon and wheeled it off to + Lansingburgh, and there launched it upon the waters of the Hudson. Down + this river they plied their course merrily on a fine summer’s day, making + its banks resound for the first time with their old French boat songs; + passing by the villages with whoop and halloo, so as to make the honest + Dutch farmers mistake them for a crew of savages. In this way they swept, + in full song and with regular flourish of the paddle, round New York, in a + still summer evening, to the wonder and admiration of its inhabitants, who + had never before witnessed on their waters, a nautical apparition of the + kind. + </p> + <p> + Such was the variegated band of adventurers about to embark in the Tonquin + on this ardous and doubtful enterprise. While yet in port and on dry land, + in the bustle of preparation and the excitement of novelty, all was + sunshine and promise. The Canadians, especially, who, with their + constitutional vivacity, have a considerable dash of the gascon, were + buoyant and boastful, and great brag arts as to the future; while all + those who had been in the service of the Northwest Company, and engaged in + the Indian trade, plumed themselves upon their hardihood and their + capacity to endure privations. If Mr. Astor ventured to hint at the + difficulties they might have to encounter, they treated them with scorn. + They were “northwesters;” men seasoned to hardships, who cared for neither + wind nor weather. They could live hard, lie hard, sleep hard, eat dogs!—in + a word they were ready to do and suffer anything for the good of the + enterprise. With all this profession of zeal and devotion, Mr. Astor was + not overconfident of the stability and firm faith of these mercurial + beings. He had received information, also, that an armed brig from + Halifax, probably at the instigation of the Northwest Company, was + hovering on the coast, watching for the Tonquin, with the purpose of + impressing the Canadians on board of her, as British subjects, and thus + interrupting the voyage. It was a time of doubt and anxiety, when the + relations between the United States and Great Britain were daily assuming + a more precarious aspect and verging towards that war which shortly + ensued. As a precautionary measure, therefore, he required that the + voyageurs, as they were about to enter into the service of an American + association, and to reside within the limits of the United States, should + take the oaths of naturalization as American citizens. To this they + readily agreed, and shortly afterward assured him that they had actually + done so. It was not until after they had sailed that he discovered that + they had entirely deceived him in the matter. + </p> + <p> + The confidence of Mr. Astor was abused in another quarter. Two of the + partners, both of them Scotchmen, and recently in the service of the + Northwest Company, had misgivings as to an enterprise which might clash + with the interests and establishments protected by the British flag. They + privately waited upon the British minister, Mr. Jackson, then in New York, + laid open to him the whole scheme of Mr. Astor, though intrusted to them + in confidence, and dependent, in a great measure, upon secrecy at the + outset for its success, and inquired whether they, as British subjects, + could lawfully engage in it. The reply satisfied their scruples, while the + information they imparted excited the surprise and admiration of Mr. + Jackson, that a private individual should have conceived and set on foot + at his own risk and expense so great an enterprise. + </p> + <p> + This step on the part of those gentlemen was not known to Mr. Astor until + some time afterwards, or it might have modified the trust and confidence + reposed in them. + </p> + <p> + To guard against any interruption to the voyage by the armed brig, said to + be off the harbor, Mr. Astor applied to Commodore Rodgers, at that time + commanding at New York, to give the Tonquin safe convoy off the coast. The + commodore having received from a high official source assurance of the + deep interest which the government took in the enterprise, sent directions + to Captain Hull, at that time cruising off the harbor, in the frigate + Constitution, to afford the Tonquin the required protection when she + should put to sea. + </p> + <p> + Before the day of embarkation, Mr. Astor addressed a letter of instruction + to the four partners who were to sail in the ship. In this he enjoined + them, in the most earnest manner, to cultivate harmony and unanimity, and + recommended that all differences of opinions on points connected with the + objects and interests of the voyage should be discussed by the whole, and + decided by a majority of votes. He, moreover, gave them especial caution + as to their conduct on arriving at their destined port; exhorting them to + be careful to make a favorable impression upon the wild people among whom + their lot and the fortunes of the enterprise would be cast. “If you find + them kind,” said he, “as I hope you will, be so to them. If otherwise, act + with caution and forebearance, and convince them that you come as + friends.” + </p> + <p> + With the same anxious forethought he wrote a letter of instructions to + Captain Thorn, in which he urged the strictest attention to the health of + himself and his crew, and to the promotion of good-humor and harmony on + board his ship. “To prevent any misunderstanding,” added he, “will require + your particular good management.” His letter closed with an injunction of + wariness in his intercourse with the natives, a subject on which Mr. Astor + was justly sensible he could not be too earnest. “I must recommend you,” + said he, “to be particularly careful on the coast, and not to rely too + much on the friendly disposition of the natives. All accidents which have + as yet happened there arose from too much confidence in the Indians.” + </p> + <p> + The reader will bear these instructions in mind, as events will prove + their wisdom and importance, and the disasters which ensued in consequence + of the neglect of them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Sailing of the Tonquin.—A Rigid Commander and a Reckless + Crew.—Landsmen on Shipboard.—Fresh-Water Sailors at Sea.— + Lubber Nests.—Ship Fare.—A Labrador Veteran—Literary + Clerks.-Curious Travellers.—Robinson Crusoe’s Island.— + Quarter-Deck Quarrels.—Falkland Islands.—A Wild-Goose + Chase.—Port Egmont.-Epitaph Hunting.—Old Mortality— + Penguin Shooting.—Sportsmen Left in the Lurch.—A Hard + Pull.—Further Altercations.—Arrival at Owyhee. +</pre> + <p> + ON the eighth of September, 1810, the Tonquin put to sea, where she was + soon joined by the frigate Constitution. The wind was fresh and fair from + the southwest, and the ship was soon out of sight of land and free from + the apprehended danger of interruption. The frigate, therefore, gave her + “God speed,” and left her to her course. + </p> + <p> + The harmony so earnestly enjoined by Mr. Astor on this heterogeneous crew, + and which had been so confidently promised in the buoyant moments of + preparation, was doomed to meet with a check at the very outset. + </p> + <p> + Captain Thorn was an honest, straighforward, but somewhat dry and + dictatorial commander, who, having been nurtured in the system and + discipline of a ship of war, and in a sacred opinion of the supremacy of + the quarter-deck, was disposed to be absolute lord and master on board of + his ship. He appears, moreover, to have had no great opinion, from the + first, of the persons embarked with him—He had stood by with surly + contempt while they vaunted so bravely to Mr. Astor of all they could do + and all they could undergo; how they could face all weathers, put up with + all kinds of fare, and even eat dogs with a relish, when no better food + was to be had. He had set them down as a set of landlubbers and + braggadocios, and was disposed to treat them accordingly. Mr. Astor was, + in his eyes, his only real employer, being the father of the enterprise, + who furnished all funds and bore all losses. The others were mere agents + and subordinates, who lived at his expense. He evidently had but a narrow + idea of the scope and nature of the enterprise, limiting his views merely + to his part of it; everything beyond the concerns of his ship was out of + his sphere; and anything that interfered with the routine of his nautical + duties put him in a passion. + </p> + <p> + The partners, on the other hand, had been brought up in the service of the + Northwest Company, and in a profound idea of the importance, dignity, and + authority of a partner. They already began to consider themselves on a par + with the M’Tavishes, the M’Gillivrays, the Frobishers, and the other + magnates of the Northwest, whom they had been accustomed to look up to as + the great ones of the earth; and they were a little disposed, perhaps, to + wear their suddenly-acquired honors with some air of pretension. Mr. + Astor, too, had put them on their mettle with respect to the captain, + describing him as a gunpowder fellow who would command his ship in fine + style, and, if there was any fighting to do, would “blow all out of the + water.” + </p> + <p> + Thus prepared to regard each other with no very cordial eye, it is not to + be wondered at that the parties soon came into collision. On the very + first night Captain Thorn began his man-of-war discipline by ordering the + lights in the cabin to be extinguished at eight o’clock. + </p> + <p> + The pride of the partners was immediately in arms. This was an invasion of + their rights and dignities not to be borne. They were on board of their + own ship, and entitled to consult their ease and enjoyment. M’Dougal was + the champion of their cause. He was an active, irritable, fuming, + vainglorious little man, and elevated in his own opinion, by being the + proxy of Mr. Astor. A violent altercation ensued, in the course of which + Thorn threatened to put the partners in irons should they prove + refractory; upon which M’Dougal seized a pistol and swore to be the death + of the captain should he ever offer such an indignity. It was some time + before the irritated parties could be pacified by the more temperate + bystanders. + </p> + <p> + Such was the captain’s outset with the partners. Nor did the clerks stand + much higher in his good graces; indeed, he seems to have regarded all the + landsmen on board his ship as a kind of live lumber, continually in the + way. The poor voyageurs, too, continually irritated his spleen by their + “lubberly” and unseemly habits, so abhorrent to one accustomed to the + cleanliness of a man-of-war. These poor fresh-water sailors, so + vainglorious on shore, and almost amphibious when on lakes and rivers, + lost all heart and stomach the moment they were at sea. For days they + suffered the doleful rigors and retchings of sea-sickness, lurking below + in their berths in squalid state, or emerging now and then like spectres + from the hatchways, in capotes and blankets, with dirty nightcaps, grizzly + beard, lantern visage and unhappy eye, shivering about the deck, and ever + and anon crawling to the sides of the vessel, and offering up their + tributes to the windward, to infinite annoyance of the captain. + </p> + <p> + His letters to Mr. Astor, wherein he pours forth the bitterness of his + soul, and his seamanlike impatience of what he considers the “lubberly” + character and conduct of those around him, are before us, and are + amusingly characteristic. The honest captain is full of vexation on his + own account, and solicitude on account of Mr. Astor, whose property he + considers at the mercy of a most heterogeneous and wasteful crew. + </p> + <p> + As to the clerks, he pronounced them mere pretenders, not one of whom had + ever been among the Indians, nor farther to the northwest than Montreal, + nor of higher rank than barkeeper of a tavern or marker of a + billiard-table, excepting one, who had been a school-master, and whom he + emphatically sets down for “as foolish a pedant as ever lived.” + </p> + <p> + Then as to the artisans and laborers who had been brought from Canada and + shipped at such expense, the three most respectable, according to the + captain’s account, were culprits, who had fled from Canada on account of + their misdeeds; the rest had figured in Montreal as draymen, barbers, + waiters, and carriole drivers, and were the most helpless, worthless + beings “that ever broke sea-biscuit.” + </p> + <p> + It may easily be imagined what a series of misunderstandings and + cross-purposes would be likely to take place between such a crew and such + a commander. The captain, in his zeal for the health and cleanliness of + his ship, would make sweeping visitations to the “lubber nests” of the + unlucky “voyageurs” and their companions in misery, ferret them out of + their berths, make them air and wash themselves and their accoutrements, + and oblige them to stir about briskly and take exercise. + </p> + <p> + Nor did his disgust and vexation cease when all hands had recovered from + sea-sickness, and become accustomed to the ship, for now broke out an + alarming keenness of appetite that threatened havoc to the provisions. + What especially irritated the captain was the daintiness of some of his + cabin passengers. They were loud in their complaints of the ship’s fare, + though their table was served with fresh pork, hams, tongues, smoked beef, + and puddings. “When thwarted in their cravings for delicacies,” Said he, + “they would exclaim it was d-d hard they could not live as they pleased + upon their own property, being on board of their own ship, freighted with + their own merchandise. And these,” added he, “are the fine fellows who + made such boast that they could ‘eat dogs.’” + </p> + <p> + In his indignation at what he termed their effeminacy, he would swear that + he would never take them to sea again “without having Fly-market on the + forecastle, Covent-garden on the poop, and a cool spring from Canada in + the maintop.” + </p> + <p> + As they proceeded on their voyage and got into the smooth seas and + pleasant weather of the tropics, other annoyances occurred to vex the + spirit of the captain. He had been crossed by the irritable mood of one of + the partners; he was now excessively annoyed by the good-humor of another. + This was the elder Stuart, who was an easy soul, and of a social + disposition. He had seen life in Canada, and on the coast of Labrador; had + been a fur trader in the former, and a fisherman on the latter; and, in + the course of his experience, had made various expeditions with voyageurs. + He was accustomed, therefore, to the familiarity which prevails between + that class and their superiors, and the gossipings which take place among + them when seated round a fire at their encampments. Stuart was never so + happy as when he could seat himself on the deck with a number of these men + round him, in camping style, smoke together, passing the pipe from mouth + to mouth, after the manner of the Indians, sing old Canadian boat-songs, + and tell stories about their hardships and adventures, in the course of + which he rivaled Sinbad in his long tales of the sea, about his fishing + exploits on the coast of Labrador. + </p> + <p> + This gossiping familiarity shocked the captain’s notions of rank and + subordination, and nothing was so abhorrent to him as the community of + pipe between master and man, and their mingling in chorus in the + outlandish boat-songs. + </p> + <p> + Then there was another whimsical source of annoyance to him. Some of the + young clerks, who were making their first voyage, and to whom everything + was new and strange, were, very rationally, in the habit of taking notes + and keeping journals. This was a sore abomination to the honest captain, + who held their literary pretensions in great contempt. “The collecting of + materials for long histories of their voyages and travels,” said he, in + his letter to Mr. Astor, “appears to engross most of their attention.” We + can conceive what must have been the crusty impatience of the worthy + navigator, when, on any trifling occurrence in the course of the voyage, + quite commonplace in his eyes, he saw these young landsmen running to + record it in their journals; and what indignant glances he must have cast + to right and left, as he worried about the deck, giving out his orders for + the management of the ship, surrounded by singing, smoking, gossiping, + scribbling groups, all, as he thought, intent upon the amusement of the + passing hour, instead of the great purposes and interests of the voyage. + </p> + <p> + It is possible the captain was in some degree right in his notions. Though + some of the passengers had much to gain by the voyage, none of them had + anything positively to lose. They were mostly young men, in the heyday of + life; and having got into fine latitudes, upon smooth seas, with a + well-stored ship under them, and a fair wind in the shoulder of the sail, + they seemed to have got into a holiday world, and were disposed to enjoy + it. That craving desire, natural to untravelled men of fresh and lively + minds, to see strange lands, and to visit scenes famous in history or + fable, was expressed by some of the partners and clerks, with respect to + some of the storied coasts and islands that lay within their route. The + captain, however, who regarded every coast and island with a + matter-of-fact eye, and had no more associations connected with them than + those laid down in his sea-chart, considered all this curiosity as + exceedingly idle and childish. “In the first part of the voyage,” says he + in his letter, “they were determined to have it said they had been in + Africa, and therefore insisted on stopping at the Cape de Verdes. Next + they said the ship should stop on the coast of Patagonia, for they must + see the large and uncommon inhabitants of that place. Then they must go to + the island where Robinson Crusoe had so long lived. And lastly, they were + determined to see the handsome inhabitants of Easter Island.” + </p> + <p> + To all these resolves, the captain opposed his peremptory veto, as + “contrary to instructions.” Then would break forth an unavailing explosion + of wrath on the part of certain of the partners, in the course of which + they did not even spare Mr. Astor for his act of supererogation in + furnishing orders for the control of the ship while they were on board, + instead of leaving them to be the judges where it would be best for her to + touch, and how long to remain. The choleric M’Dougal took the lead in + these railings, being, as has been observed, a little puffed up with the + idea of being Mr. Astor’s proxy. + </p> + <p> + The captain, however, became only so much the more crusty and dogged in + his adherence to his orders, and touchy and harsh in his dealings with the + passengers, and frequent altercations ensued. He may in some measure have + been influenced by his seamanlike impatience of the interference of + landsmen, and his high notions of naval etiquette and quarter-deck + authority; but he evidently had an honest, trusty concern for the + interests of his employer. He pictured to himself the anxious projector of + the enterprise, who had disbursed so munificently in its outfit, + calculating on the zeal, fidelity, and singleness of purpose of his + associates and agents; while they, on the other hand, having a good ship + at their disposal and a deep pocket at home to bear them out, seemed ready + to loiter on every coast, and amuse themselves in every port. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth of December they came in sight of the Falkland Islands. + Having been for some time on an allowance of water, it was resolved to + anchor here and obtain a supply. A boat was sent into a small bay to take + soundings. Mr. M’Dougal and Mr. M’Kay took this occasion to go on shore, + but with a request from the captain that they would not detain the ship. + Once on shore, however, they were in no haste to obey his orders, but + rambled about in search of curiosities. The anchorage proving unsafe, and + water difficult to be procured, the captain stood out to sea, and made + repeated signals for those on shore to rejoin the ship, but it was not + until nine at night that they came on board. + </p> + <p> + The wind being adverse, the boat was again sent on shore on the following + morning, and the same gentlemen again landed, but promised to come off at + a moment’s warning; they again forgot their promise in their eager pursuit + of wild geese and seawolves. After a time the wind hauled fair, and + signals were made for the boat. Half an hour elapsed but no boat put off. + The captain reconnoitered the shore with his glass, and, to his infinite + vexation, saw the loiterers in the full enjoyment of their + “wildgoose-chase.” Nettled to the quick, he immediately made sail. When + those on shore saw the ship actually under way, they embarked with all + speed, but had a hard pull of eight miles before they got on board, and + then experienced but a grim reception, notwithstanding that they came well + laden with the spoils of the chase. + </p> + <p> + Two days afterwards, on the seventh of December, they anchored at Fort + Egmont, in the same island, where they remained four days taking in water + and making repairs. This was a joyous time for the landsmen. They pitched + a tent on shore, had a boat at their command, and passed their time + merrily in rambling about the island, and coasting along the shores, + shooting sealions, seals, foxes, geese, ducks, and penguins. None were + keener in pursuit of this kind of game than M’Dougal and David Stuart; the + latter was reminded of aquatic sports on the coast of Labrador, and his + hunting exploits in the Northwest. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime the captain addressed himself steadily to the business of + his ship, scorning the holiday spirit and useless pursuits of his + emancipated messmates, and warning them, from time to time, not to wander + away nor be out of hail. They promised, as usual, that the ship should + never experience a moment’s detention on their account, but, as usual, + forgot their promise. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 11th, the repairs being all finished, and the water + casks replenished, the signal was given to embark, and the ship began to + weigh anchor. At this time several of the passengers were dispersed about + the island, amusing themselves in various ways. Some of the young men had + found two inscriptions, in English, over a place where two unfortunate + mariners had been buried in this desert island. As the inscriptions were + worn out by the time and weather, they were playing the part of “Old + Mortality,” and piously renewing them. The signal from the ship summoned + them from their labors; they saw the sails unfurled, and that she was + getting under way. The two sporting partners, however, Mr. M’Dougal and + David Stuart, had strolled away to the south of the island in pursuit of + penguins. It would never do to put off without them, as there was but one + boat to convey the whole. + </p> + <p> + While this delay took place on shore, the captain was storming on board. + This was the third time his orders had been treated with contempt, and the + ship wantonly detained, and it should be the last; so he spread all sail + and put to sea, swearing he would leave the laggards to shift for + themselves. It was in vain that those on board made remonstrances and + entreaties, and represented the horrors of abandoning men upon a sterile + and uninhabited island; the sturdy captain was inflexible. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime the penguin hunters had joined the engravers of + tombstones, but not before the ship was already out at sea. They all, to + the number of eight, threw themselves into their boat, which was about + twenty feet in length, and rowed with might and main. For three hours and + a half did they tug anxiously and severely at the oar, swashed + occasionally by the surging waves of the open sea, while the ship + inexorably kept on her course, and seemed determined to leave them behind. + </p> + <p> + On board the ship was the nephew of David Stuart, a young man of spirit + and resolution. Seeing, as he thought, the captain obstinately bent upon + abandoning his uncle and the others, he seized a pistol, and in a paroxysm + of wrath swore he would blow out the captain’s brains, unless he put about + or shortened sail. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately for all parties, the wind just then came ahead, and the boat + was enabled to reach the ship; otherwise, disastrous circumstances might + have ensued. We can hardly believe that the captain really intended to + carry his threat into full effect, and rather think he meant to let the + laggards off for a long pull and a hearty fright. He declared, however, in + his letter to Mr. Astor, that he was serious in his threats, and there is + no knowing how far such an iron man may push his notions of authority. + </p> + <p> + “Had the wind,” writes he, “(unfortunately) not hauled ahead soon after + leaving the harbor’s mouth, I should positively have left them; and, + indeed, I cannot but think it an unfortunate circumstance for you that it + so happened, for the first loss in this instance would, in my opinion, + have proved the best, as they seem to have no idea of the value of + property, nor any apparent regard for your interest, although interwoven + with their own.” + </p> + <p> + This, it must be confessed, was acting with a high hand, and carrying a + regard to the owner’s property to a dangerous length. Various petty feuds + occurred also between him and the partners in respect to the goods on + board ship, some articles of which they wished to distribute for clothing + among the men, or for other purposes which they deemed essential. The + captain, however, kept a mastiff watch upon the cargo, and growled and + snapped if they but offered to touch box or bale. “It was contrary to + orders; it would forfeit his insurance; it was out of all rule.” It was in + vain they insisted upon their right to do so, as part owners, and as + acting for the good of the enterprise; the captain only stuck to his point + the more stanchly. They consoled themselves, therefore, by declaring, that + as soon as they made land, they would assert their rights, and do with + ship and cargo as they pleased. + </p> + <p> + Beside these feuds between the captain and the partners, there were feuds + between the partners themselves, occasioned, in some measure, by jealousy + of rank. M’Dougal and M’Kay began to draw plans for the fort, and other + buildings of the intended establishment. They agreed very well as to the + outline and dimensions, which were on a sufficiently grand scale; but when + they came to arrange the details, fierce disputes arose, and they would + quarrel by the hour about the distribution of the doors and windows. Many + were the hard words and hard names bandied between them on these + occasions, according to the captain’s account. Each accused the other of + endeavoring to assume unwarrantable power, and take the lead; upon which + Mr. M’Dougal would vauntingly lay down Mr. Astor’s letter, constituting + him his representative and proxy, a document not to be disputed. + </p> + <p> + These wordy contests, though violent, were brief; “and within fifteen + minutes,” says the captain, “they would be caressing each other like + children.” + </p> + <p> + While all this petty anarchy was agitating the little world within the + Tonquin, the good ship prosperously pursued her course, doubled Cape Horn + on the 25th of December, careered across the bosom of the Pacific, until, + on the 11th of February, the snowy peaks of Owyhee were seen brightening + above the horizon. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Owyhee.—Sandwich Islanders—Their Nautical Talents.— + Tamaahmaah.—His Navy.—His Negotiations.—Views of Mr. + Astor With Respect to the Sandwich Islands—Karakakooa.— + Royal Monopoly of Pork.-Description of the Islanders— + Gayeties on Shore.—Chronicler of the Island.—Place + Where Captain Cook was Killed.—John Young, a Nautical + Governor.—His Story.—Waititi—A Royal Residence.—A Royal + Visit—Grand Ceremonials.—Close Dealing—A Royal Pork + Merchant—Grievances of a Matter-of-Fact Man. +</pre> + <p> + OWYHEE, or Hawaii, as it is written by more exact orthographers, is the + largest of the cluster, ten in number, of the Sandwich Islands. It is + about ninety-seven miles in length, and seventy-eight in breadth, rising + gradually into three pyramidal summits or cones; the highest, Mouna Roa, + being eighteen thousand feet above the level of the sea, so as to domineer + over the whole archipelago, and to be a landmark over a wide extent of + ocean. It remains a lasting monument of the enterprising and unfortunate + Captain Cook, who was murdered by the natives of this island. + </p> + <p> + The Sandwich Islanders, when first discovered, evinced a character + superior to most of the savages of the Pacific isles. They were frank and + open in their deportment, friendly and liberal in their dealings, with an + apt ingenuity apparent in all their rude inventions. + </p> + <p> + The tragical fate of the discoverer, which, for a time, brought them under + the charge of ferocity, was, in fact, the result of sudden exasperation, + caused by the seizure of their chief. + </p> + <p> + At the time of the visit of the Tonquin, the islanders had profited, in + many respects, by occasional intercourse with white men; and had shown a + quickness to observe and cultivate those arts important to their mode of + living. Originally they had no means of navigating the seas by which they + were surrounded, superior to light pirogues, which were little competent + to contend with the storms of the broad ocean. As the islanders are not in + sight of each other, there could, therefore, be but casual intercourse + between them. The traffic with white men had put them in possession of + vessels of superior description; they had made themselves acquainted with + their management, and had even made rude advances in the art of + ship-building. + </p> + <p> + These improvements had been promoted, in a great measure, by the energy + and sagacity of one man, the famous Tamaahmaah. He had originally been a + petty eri, or chief; but, being of an intrepid and aspiring nature, he had + risen in rank, and, availing himself of the superior advantages now + afforded in navigation, had brought the whole archipelago in subjection to + his arms. At the time of the arrival of the Tonquin he had about forty + schooners, of from twenty to thirty tons burden, and one old American + ship. With these he held undisputed sway over his insular domains, and + carried on intercourse with the chiefs or governors whom he had placed in + command of the several islands. + </p> + <p> + The situation of this group of islands, far in the bosom of the vast + Pacific, and their abundant fertility, render them important + stopping-places on the highway to China, or to the northwest coast of + America. Here the vessels engaged in the fur trade touched to make repairs + and procure provisions; and here they often sheltered themselves during + the winters that occurred in their long coasting expeditions. + </p> + <p> + The British navigators were, from the first, aware of the value of these + islands to the purposes of commerce; and Tamaahmaah, not long after he had + attained the sovereign sway, was persuaded by Vancouver, the celebrated + discoverer, to acknowledge, on behalf of himself, and subjects, allegiance + to the king of Great Britain. The reader cannot but call to mind the visit + which the royal family and court of the Sandwich Islands was, in late + years, induced to make to the court of St. James; and the serio-comic + ceremonials and mock parade which attended that singular travesty of + monarchal style. + </p> + <p> + It was a part of the wide and comprehensive plan of Mr. Astor to establish + a friendly intercourse between these islands and his intended colony, + which might, for a time, have occasion to draw supplies thence; and he + even had a vague idea of, some time or other, getting possession of one of + their islands as a rendezvous for his ships, and a link in the chain of + his commercial establishments. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 12th of February, the Tonquin anchored in the bay of + Karakakooa, in the island of Owyhee. The surrounding shores were wild and + broken, with overhanging cliffs and precipices of black volcanic rock. + Beyond these, however, the country was fertile and well cultivated, with + inclosures of yams, plantains, sweet potatoes, sugar-canes, and other + productions of warm climates and teeming soils; and the numerous + habitations of the natives were pleasantly sheltered beneath clumps of + cocoanut and bread-fruit trees, which afforded both food and shade. This + mingled variety of garden and grove swept gradually up the sides of the + mountains, until succeeded by dense forests, which in turn gave place to + naked and craggy rocks, until the summits rose into the regions of + perpetual snow. + </p> + <p> + The royal residence of Tamaahmaah was at this time at another island named + Woahoo. The island of Owyhee was under the command of one of his eris, or + chiefs, who resided at the village of Tocaigh, situated on a different + part of the coast from the bay of Karakakooa. + </p> + <p> + On the morning after her arrival, the ship was surrounded by canoes and + pirogues, filled with the islanders of both sexes, bringing off supplies + of fruits and vegetables, bananas, plantains, watermelons, yams, cabbages + and taro. The captain was desirous, however, of purchasing a number of + hogs, but there were none to be had—The trade in pork was a royal + monopoly, and no subject of the great Tamaahmaah dared to meddle with it. + Such provisions as they could furnish, however, were brought by the + natives in abundance, and a lively intercourse was kept up during the day, + in which the women mingled in the kindest manner. + </p> + <p> + The islanders are a comely race, of a copper complexion. The men are tall + and well made, with forms indicating strength and activity; the women with + regular and occasionally handsome features, and a lascivious expression, + characteristic of their temperament. Their style of dress was nearly the + same as in the days of Captain Cook. The men wore the maro, a band one + foot in width and several feet in length, swathed round the loins, and + formed of tappa, or cloth of bark; the kihei, or mantle, about six feet + square, tied in a knot over one shoulder, passed under the opposite arm, + so as to leave it bare, and falling in graceful folds before and behind, + to the knee, so as to bear some resemblance to a Roman toga. + </p> + <p> + The female dress consisted of the pau, a garment formed of a piece of + tappa, several yards in length and one in width, wrapped round the waist, + and reaching like a petticoat, to the knees. Over this kihei, or mantle, + larger than that of the men, sometimes worn over both shoulders, like a + shawl, sometimes over one only. These mantles were seldom worn by either + sex during the heat of the day, when the exposure of their persons was at + first very revolting to a civilized eye. + </p> + <p> + Towards evening several of the partners and clerks went on shore, where + they were well received and hospitably entertained. A dance was performed + for their amusement, in which nineteen young women and one man figured + very gracefully, singing in concert, and moving to the cadence of their + song. + </p> + <p> + All this, however, was nothing to the purpose in the eyes of Captain + Thorn, who, being disappointed in his hope of obtaining a supply of pork, + or finding good water, was anxious to be off. This it was not so easy to + effect. The passengers, once on shore, were disposed, as usual, to profit + by the occasion. The partners had many inquiries to make relative to the + island, with a view to business; while the young clerks were delighted + with the charms and graces of the dancing damsels. + </p> + <p> + To add to their gratifications, an old man offered to conduct them to the + spot where Captain Cook was massacred. The proposition was eagerly + accepted, and all hands set out on a pilgrimage to the place. The veteran + islander performed his promise faithfully, and pointed out the very spot + where the unfortunate discoverer fell. The rocks and cocoa-trees around + bore record of the fact, in the marks of the balls fired from the boats + upon the savages. The pilgrims gathered round the old man, and drew from + him all the particulars he had to relate respecting this memorable event; + while the honest captain stood by and bit his nails with impatience. To + add to his vexation, they employed themselves in knocking off pieces of + the rocks, and cutting off the bark of the trees marked by the balls, + which they conveyed back to the ship as precious relics. + </p> + <p> + Right glad, therefore, was he to get them and their treasures fairly on + board, when he made sail from this unprofitable place, and steered for the + Bay of Tocaigh, the residence of the chief or governor of the island, + where he hoped to be more successful in obtaining supplies. On coming to + anchor the captain went on shore, accompanied by Mr. M’Dougal and Mr. + M’Kay, and paid a visit to the governor. This dignitary proved to be an + old sailor, by the name of John Young; who, after being tossed about the + seas like another Sinbad, had, by one of the whimsical freaks of fortune, + been elevated to the government of a savage island. He received his + visitors with more hearty familiarity than personages in his high station + are apt to indulge, but soon gave them to understand that provisions were + scanty at Tocaigh, and that there was no good water, no rain having fallen + in the neighborhood in three years. + </p> + <p> + The captain was immediately for breaking up the conference and departing, + but the partners were not so willing to part with the nautical governor, + who seemed disposed to be extremely communicative, and from whom they + might be able to procure some useful information. A long conversation + accordingly ensued, in the course of which they made many inquiries about + the affairs of the islands, their natural productions, and the possibility + of turning them to advantage in the way of trade; nor did they fail to + inquire into the individual history of John Young, and how he came to be + governor. This he gave with great condescension, running through the whole + course of his fortunes “even from his boyish days.” + </p> + <p> + He was a native of Liverpool, in England, and had followed the sea from + boyhood, until, by dint of good conduct, he had risen so far in his + profession as to be boatswain of an American ship called the Eleanor, + commanded by Captain Metcalf. In this vessel he had sailed in 1789, on one + of those casual expeditions to the northwest coast, in quest of furs. In + the course of the voyage, the captain left a small schooner, named the + Fair American, at Nootka, with a crew of five men, commanded by his son, a + youth of eighteen. She was to follow on in the track of the Eleanor. + </p> + <p> + In February, 1790, Captain Metcalf touched at the island of Mowee, one of + the Sandwich group. While anchored here, a boat which was astern of the + Eleanor was stolen, and a seaman who was in it was killed. The natives, + generally, disclaimed the outrage, and brought the shattered remains of + the boat and the dead body of the seaman to the ship. Supposing that they + had thus appeased the anger of the captain, they thronged, as usual, in + great numbers about the vessel, to trade. Captain Metcalf, however, + determined on a bloody revenge. The Eleanor mounted ten guns. All these he + ordered to be loaded with musket-balls, nails, and pieces of old iron, and + then fired them, and the small arms of the ship, among the natives. The + havoc was dreadful; more than a hundred, according to Young’s account, + were slain. + </p> + <p> + After this signal act of vengeance, Captain Metcalf sailed from Mowee, and + made for the island of Owyhee, where he was well received by Tamaahmaah. + The fortunes of this warlike chief were at that time on the rise. He had + originally been of inferior rank, ruling over only one or two districts of + Owyhee, but had gradually made himself sovereign of his native island. + </p> + <p> + The Eleanor remained some few days at anchor here, and an apparently + friendly intercourse was kept up with the inhabitants. On the 17th March, + John Young obtained permission to pass the night on shore. On the + following morning a signal-gun summoned him to return on board. + </p> + <p> + He went to the shore to embark, but found all the canoes hauled up on the + beach and rigorously tabooed, or interdicted. He would have launched one + himself, but was informed by Tamaahmaah that if he presumed to do so he + would be put to death. + </p> + <p> + Young was obliged to submit, and remained all day in great perplexity to + account for this mysterious taboo, and fearful that some hostility was + intended. In the evening he learned the cause of it, and his uneasiness + was increased. It appeared that the vindictive act of Captain Metcalf had + recoiled upon his own head. The schooner Fair American, commanded by his + son, following in his track, had fallen into the hands of the natives to + the southward of Tocaigh Bay, and young Metcalf and four of the crew had + been massacred. + </p> + <p> + On receiving intelligence of this event, Tamaahmaah had immediately + tabooed all the canoes, and interdicted all intercourse with the ship, + lest the captain should learn the fate of the schooner, and take his + revenge upon the island. For the same reason he prevented Young from + rejoining his countrymen. The Eleanor continued to fire signals from time + to time for two days, and then sailed; concluding, no doubt, that the + boatswain had deserted. + </p> + <p> + John Young was in despair when he saw the ship make sail; and found + himself abandoned among savages;-and savages, too, sanguinary in their + character, and inflamed by acts of hostility. He was agreeably + disappointed, however, in experiencing nothing but kind treatment from + Tamaahmaah and his people. It is true, he was narrowly watched whenever a + vessel came in sight, lest he should escape and relate what had passed; + but at other times he was treated with entire confidence and great + distinction. He became a prime favorite, cabinet counsellor, and active + coadjutor of Tamaahmaah, attending him in all his excursions, whether of + business or pleasure, and aiding in his warlike and ambitious enterprises. + By degrees he rose to the rank of a chief, espoused one of the beauties of + the island, and became habituated and reconciled to his new way of life; + thinking it better, perhaps, to rule among savages than serve among white + men; to be a feathered chief than a tarpaulin boatswain. His favor with + Tamahmaah, never declined; and when that sagacious, intrepid, and aspiring + chieftain had made himself sovereign over the whole group of islands, and + removed his residence to Woahoo, he left his faithful adherent John Young + in command of Owyhee. + </p> + <p> + Such is an outline of the history of Governor Young, as furnished by + himself; and we regret that we are not able to give any account of the + state maintained by this seafaring worthy, and the manner in which he + discharged his high functions; though it is evident he had more of the + hearty familiarity of the forecastle than the dignity of the gubernatorial + office. + </p> + <p> + These long conferences were bitter trials to the patience of the captain, + who had no respect either for the governor or his island, and was anxious + to push on in quest of provisions and water. As soon as he could get his + inquisitive partners once more on board, he weighed anchor, and made sail + for the island of Woahoo, the royal residence of Tamaahmaah. + </p> + <p> + This is the most beautiful island of the Sandwich group. It is forty-six + miles in length and twenty-three in breadth. A ridge of volcanic mountains + extends through the centre, rising into lofty peaks, and skirted by + undulating hills and rich plains, where the cabins of the natives peep out + from beneath groves of cocoanut and other luxuriant trees. + </p> + <p> + On the 21st of February the Tonquin cast anchor in the beautiful bay + before the village of Waititi, (pronounced Whyteetee.) the abode of + Tamaahmaah. This village contained about two hundred habitations, composed + of poles set in the ground, tied together at the ends, and thatched with + grass, and was situated in an open grove of cocoanuts. The royal palace of + Tamaahmaah was a large house of two stories; the lower of stone, the upper + of wood. Round this his body-guard kept watch, composed of twenty-four men + in long blue cassocks, turned up with yellow, and each armed with a + musket. + </p> + <p> + While at anchor at this place, much ceremonious visiting and long + conferences took place between the potentate of the islands and the + partners of the company. Tamaahmaah came on board of the ship in royal + style, in his double pirogue. He was between fifty and sixty years of age, + above the middle size, large and well made, though somewhat corpulent. He + was dressed in an old suit of regimentals, with a sword by his side, and + seemed somewhat embarrassed by his magnificent attire. Three of his wives + accompanied him. They were almost as tall, and quite as corpulent as + himself; but by no means to be compared with him in grandeur of + habiliments, wearing no other garb than the pan. With him, also, came his + great favorite and confidential counseller, Kraimaker; who, from holding a + post equivalent to that of prime minister, had been familiarly named Billy + Pitt by the British visitors to the islands. + </p> + <p> + The sovereign was received with befitting ceremonial. The American flag + was displayed, four guns were fired, and the partners appeared in scarlet + coats, and conducted their illustrious guests to the cabin, where they + were regaled with wine. In this interview the partners endeavored to + impress the monarch with a sense of their importance, and of the + importance of the association to which they belonged. They let him know + that they were eris, or chiefs, of a great company about to be established + on the northwest coast, and talked of the probability of opening a trade + with his islands, and of sending ships there occasionally. All this was + gratifying and interesting to him, for he was aware of the advantages of + trade, and desirous of promoting frequent intercourse with white men. He + encouraged Europeans and Americans to settle in his islands and intermarry + with his subjects. There were between twenty and thirty white men at that + time resident in the island, but many of them were mere vagabonds, who + remained there in hopes of leading a lazy and an easy life. For such + Tamaahmaah had a great contempt; those only had his esteem and countenance + who knew some trade or mechanic art, and were sober and industrious. + </p> + <p> + On the day subsequent to the monarch’s visit, the partners landed and + waited upon him in return. Knowing the effect of show and dress upon men + in savage life, and wishing to make a favorable impression as the eris, or + chiefs, of the great American Fur Company, some of them appeared in + Highland plaids and kilts to the great admiration of the natives. + </p> + <p> + While visits of ceremony and grand diplomatic conferences were going on + between the partners and the king, the captain, in his plain, + matter-of-fact way, was pushing what he considered a far more important + negotiation; the purchase of a supply of hogs. He found that the king had + profited in more ways than one by his intercourse with white men. Above + all other arts he had learned the art of driving a bargain. He was a + magnanimous monarch, but a shrewd pork merchant; and perhaps thought he + could not do better with his future allies, the American Fur Company, than + to begin by close dealing. Several interviews were requisite, and much + bargaining, before he could be brought to part with a bristle of his + bacon, and then he insisted upon being paid in hard Spanish dollars; + giving as a reason that he wanted money to purchase a frigate from his + brother George, as he affectionately termed the king of England. * + </p> + <p> + At length the royal bargain was concluded; the necessary supply of hogs + obtained, besides several goats, two sheep, a quantity of poultry, and + vegetables in abundance. The partners now urged to recruit their forces + from the natives of this island. They declared they had never seen + watermen equal to them, even among the voyageurs of the Northwest; and, + indeed, they are remarkable for their skill in managing their light craft, + and can swim and dive like waterfowl. The partners were inclined, + therefore, to take thirty or forty with them to the Columbia, to be + employed in the service of the company. The captain, however, objected + that there was not room in his vessel for the accommodation of such a + number. Twelve, only, were therefore enlisted for the company, and as many + more for the service of the ship. The former engaged to serve for the term + of three years, during which they were to be fed and clothed; and at the + expiration of the time were to receive one hundred dollars in merchandise. + </p> + <p> + And now, having embarked his live-stock, fruits, vegetables, and water, + the captain made ready to set sail. How much the honest man had suffered + in spirit by what he considered the freaks and vagaries of his passengers, + and how little he had understood their humors and intentions, is amusingly + shown in a letter written to Mr. Astor from Woahoo, which contains his + comments on the scenes we have described. + </p> + <p> + “It would be difficult,” he writes, “to imagine the frantic gambols that + are daily played off here; sometimes dressing in red coats, and otherwise + very fantastically, and collecting a number of ignorant natives around + them, telling them that they are the great eris of the Northwest, and + making arrangements for sending three or four vessels yearly to them from + the coast with spars, &c.; while those very natives cannot even + furnish a hog to the ship. Then dressing in Highland plaids and kilts, and + making similar arrangements, with presents of rum, wine, or anything that + is at hand. Then taking a number of clerks and men on shore to the very + spot on which Captain Cook was killed, and each fetching off a piece of + the rock or tree that was touched by the shot. Then sitting down with some + white man or some native who can be a little understood, and collecting + the history of those islands, of Tamaahmaah’s wars, the curiosities of the + islands, &c., preparatory to the histories of their voyages; and the + collection is indeed ridiculously contemptible. To enumerate the thousand + instances of ignorance, filth, &c.,—or to particularize all the + frantic gambols that are daily practiced, would require Volumes.” + </p> + <p> + Before embarking, the great eris of the American Fur Company took leave of + their illustrious ally in due style, with many professions of lasting + friendship and promises of future intercourse; while the matter-of-fact + captain anathematized him in his heart for a grasping, trafficking savage; + as shrewd and sordid in his dealings as a white man. As one of the vessels + of the company will, in the course of events, have to appeal to the + justice and magnanimity of this island potentate, we shall see how far the + honest captain was right in his opinion. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * It appears, from the accounts of subsequent voyagers, that + Tamaahmaah afterwards succeeded in his wish of purchasing a + large ship. In this he sent a cargo of sandal-wood to + Canton, having discovered that the foreign merchants trading + with him made large profits on this wood, shipped by them + from the islands to the Chinese markets. The ship was manned + by natives, but the officers were Englishmen. She + accomplished her voyage, and returned in safety to the + islands, with the Hawaiian flag floating gloriously in the + breeze. The king hastened on board, expecting to find his + sandal-wood converted into crapes and damasks, and other + rich stuffs of China, but found, to his astonishment, by the + legerdemain of traffic, his cargo had all disappeared, and, + in place of it, remained a bill of charges amounting to + three thousand dollars. It was some time before he could be + made to comprehend certain of the most important items of + the bill, such as pilotage, anchorage, and custom-house + fees; but when he discovered that maritime states in other + countries derived large revenues in this manner, to the + great cost of the merchant, “Well,” cried he, “then I will + have harbor fees also.” He established them accordingly. + Pilotage a dollar a foot on the draft of each vessel. + Anchorage from sixty to seventy dollars. In this way he + greatly increased the royal revenue, and turned his China + speculation to account. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure From the Sandwich Islands.—Misunderstandings— + Miseries of a Suspicious Man.—Arrival at the Columbia— + Dangerous Service.—Gloomy Apprehensions—Bars and + Breakers.—Perils of the Ship. Disasters of a Boat’s Crew.— + Burial of a Sandwich Islander. +</pre> + <p> + IT was on the 28th of February that the Tonquin set sail from the Sandwich + Islands. For two days the wind was contrary, and the vessel was detained + in their neighborhood; at length a favorable breeze sprang up, and in a + little while the rich groves, green hills, and snowy peaks of those happy + islands one after another sank from sight, or melted into the blue + distance, and the Tonquin ploughed her course towards the sterner regions + of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + The misunderstandings between the captain and his passengers still + continued; or rather, increased in gravity. By his altercations and his + moody humors, he had cut himself off from all community of thought, or + freedom of conversation with them. He disdained to ask questions as to + their proceedings, and could only guess at the meaning of their movements, + and in so doing indulged in conjectures and suspicions, which produced the + most whimsical self-torment. + </p> + <p> + Thus, in one of his disputes with them, relative to the goods on board, + some of the packages of which they wished to open, to take out articles of + clothing for the men or presents for the natives, he was so harsh and + peremptory that they lost all patience, and hinted that they were the + strongest party, and might reduce him to a very ridiculous dilemma, by + taking from him the command. + </p> + <p> + A thought now flashed across the captain’s mind that they really had a + plan to depose him, and that, having picked up some information at Owyhee, + possibly of war between the United States and England, they meant to alter + the destination of the voyage; perhaps to seize upon ship and cargo for + their own use. + </p> + <p> + Once having conceived this suspicion, everything went to foster it. They + had distributed fire-arms among some of their men, a common precaution + among the fur traders when mingling with the natives. This, however, + looked like preparation. Then several of the partners and clerks and some + of the men, being Scotsmen, were acquainted with the Gaelic, and held long + conversations together in that language. These conversations were + considered by the captain of a “mysterious and unwarranted nature,” and + related, no doubt, to some foul conspiracy that was brewing among them. He + frankly avows such suspicions, in his letter to Mr. Astor, but intimates + that he stood ready to resist any treasonous outbreak; and seems to think + that the evidence of preparation on his part had an effect in overawing + the conspirators. + </p> + <p> + The fact is, as we have since been informed by one of the parties, it was + a mischievous pleasure with some of the partners and clerks, who were + young men, to play upon the suspicious temper and splenetic humors of the + captain. To this we may ascribe many of their whimsical pranks and absurd + propositions, and, above all, their mysterious colloquies in Gaelic. + </p> + <p> + In this sore and irritable mood did the captain pursue his course, keeping + a wary eye on every movement, and bristling up whenever the detested sound + of the Gaelic language grated upon his ear. Nothing occurred, however, + materially to disturb the residue of the voyage excepting a violent storm; + and on the twenty-second of March, the Tonquin arrived at the mouth of the + Oregon, or Columbia River. + </p> + <p> + The aspect of the river and the adjacent coast was wild and dangerous. The + mouth of the Columbia is upwards of four miles wide with a peninsula and + promontory on one side, and a long low spit of land on the other; between + which a sand bar and chain of breakers almost block the entrance. The + interior of the country rises into successive ranges of mountains, which, + at the time of the arrival of the Tonquin, were covered with snow. + </p> + <p> + A fresh wind from the northwest sent a rough tumbling sea upon the coast, + which broke upon the bar in furious surges, and extended a sheet of foam + almost across the mouth of the river. Under these circumstances the + captain did not think it prudent to approach within three leagues, until + the bar should be sounded and the channel ascertained. Mr. Fox, the chief + mate, was ordered to this service in the whaleboat, accompanied by John + Martin, an old seaman, who had formerly visited the river, and by three + Canadians. Fox requested to have regular sailors to man the boat, but the + captain would not spare them from the service of the ship, and supposed + the Canadians, being expert boatmen on lakes and rivers, were competent to + the service, especially when directed and aided by Fox and Martin. Fox + seems to have lost all firmness of spirit on the occasion, and to have + regarded the service with a misgiving heart. He came to the partners for + sympathy, knowing their differences with the captain, and the tears were + in his eyes as he represented his case. “I am sent off,” said he, “without + seamen to man my boat, in boisterous weather, and on the most dangerous + part of the northwest coast. My uncle was lost a few years ago on this + same bar, and I am now going to lay my bones alongside of his.” The + partners sympathized in his apprehensions, and remonstrated with the + captain. The latter, however, was not to be moved. He had been displeased + with Mr. Fox in the earlier part of the voyage, considering him indolent + and inactive; and probably thought his present repugnance arose from a + want of true nautical spirit. The interference of the partners in the + business of the ship, also, was not calculated to have a favorable effect + on a stickler for authority like himself, especially in his actual state + of feeling towards them. + </p> + <p> + At one o’clock, P.M., therefore, Fox and his comrades set off in the + whaleboat, which is represented as small in size, and crazy in condition. + All eyes were strained after the little bark as it pulled for shore, + rising and sinking with the huge rolling waves, until it entered, a mere + speck, among the foaming breakers, and was soon lost to view. Evening set + in, night succeeded and passed away, and morning returned, but without the + return of the boat. + </p> + <p> + As the wind had moderated, the ship stood near to the land, so as to + command a view of the river’s mouth. Nothing was to be seen but a wild + chaos of tumbling waves breaking upon the bar, and apparently forming a + foaming barrier from shore to shore. Towards night the ship again stood + out to gain sea-room, and a gloom was visible in every countenance. The + captain himself shared in the general anxiety, and probably repented of + his peremptory orders. Another weary and watchful night succeeded, during + which the wind subsided, and the weather became serene. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, the ship having drifted near the land, anchored in + fourteen fathoms water, to the northward of the long peninsula or + promontory which forms the north side of the entrance, and is called Cape + Disappointment. The pinnace was then manned, and two of the partners, Mr. + David Stuart and Mr. M’Kay, set off in the hope of learning something of + the fate of the whaleboat. The surf, however, broke with such violence + along the shore that they could find no landing place. Several of the + natives appeared on the beach and made signs to them to row round the + cape, but they thought it most prudent to return to the ship. + </p> + <p> + The wind now springing up, the Tonquin got under way, and stood in to seek + the channel; but was again deterred by the frightful aspect of the + breakers, from venturing within a league. Here she hove to; and Mr. + Mumford, the second mate, was despatched with four hands, in the pinnace, + to sound across the channel until he should find four fathoms depth. The + pinnace entered among the breakers, but was near being lost, and with + difficulty got back to the ship. The captain insisted that Mr. Mumford had + steered too much to the southward. He now turned to Mr. Aiken, an able + mariner, destined to command the schooner intended for the coasting trade, + and ordered him, together with John Coles, sail-maker, Stephen Weekes, + armorer, and two Sandwich Islanders, to proceed ahead and take soundings, + while the ship should follow under easy sail. In this way they proceeded + until Aiken had ascertained the channel, when signal was given from the + ship for him to return on board. He was then within pistol shot, but so + furious was the current, and tumultuous the breakers, that the boat became + unmanageable, and was hurried away, the crew crying out piteously for + assistance. In a few moments she could not be seen from the ship’s deck. + Some of the passengers climbed to the mizzen top, and beheld her still + struggling to reach the ship; but shortly after she broached broadside to + the waves, and her case seemed desperate. The attention of those on board + of the ship was now called to their own safety. They were in shallow + water; the vessel struck repeatedly, the waves broke over her, and there + was danger of her foundering. At length she got into seven fathoms water, + and the wind lulling, and the night coming on, cast anchor. With the + darkness their anxieties increased. The wind whistled, the sea roared, the + gloom was only broken by the ghastly glare of the foaming breakers, the + minds of the seamen were full of dreary apprehensions, and some of them + fancied they heard the cries of their lost comrades mingling with the + uproar of the elements. For a time, too, the rapidly ebbing tide + threatened to sweep them from their precarious anchorage. At length the + reflux of the tide, and the springing up of the wind, enabled them to quit + their dangerous situation and take shelter in a small bay within Cape + Disappointment, where they rode in safety during the residue of a stormy + night, and enjoyed a brief interval of refreshing sleep. + </p> + <p> + With the light of day returned their cares and anxieties. They looked out + from the mast-head over a wild coast, and wilder sea, but could discover + no trace of the two boats and their crews that were missing. Several of + the natives came on board with peltries, but there was no disposition to + trade. They were interrogated by signs after the lost boats, but could not + understand the inquiries. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_PART" id="link2H_PART"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Parties now Went on shore and scoured the neighborhood. One of these + </h2> + <p> + was headed by the captain. They had not proceeded far when they beheld a + person at a distance in civilized garb. As he drew near he proved to be + Weekes, the armorer. There was a burst of joy, for it was hoped his + comrades were near at hand. His story, however, was one of disaster. He + and his companions had found it impossible to govern their boat, having no + rudder, and being beset by rapid and whirling currents and boisterous + surges. After long struggling they had let her go at the mercy of the + waves, tossing about, sometimes with her bow, sometimes with her broadside + to the surges, threatened each instant with destruction, yet repeatedly + escaping, until a huge sea broke over and swamped her. Weekes was + overwhelmed by the broiling waves, but emerging above the surface, looked + round for his companions. Aiken and Coles were not to be seen; near him + were the two Sandwich Islanders, stripping themselves of their clothing + that they might swim more freely. He did the same, and the boat floating + near to him he seized hold of it. The two islanders joined him, and, + uniting their forces, they succeeded in turning the boat upon her keel; + then bearing down her stern and rocking her, they forced out so much water + that she was able to bear the weight of a man without sinking. One of the + islanders now got in, and in a little while bailed out the water with his + hands. The other swam about and collected the oars, and they all three got + once more on board. + </p> + <p> + By this time the tide had swept them beyond the breakers, and Weekes + called on his companions to row for land. They were so chilled and + benumbed by the cold, however, that they lost all heart, and absolutely + refused. Weekes was equally chilled, but had superior sagacity and + self-command. He counteracted the tendency to drowsiness and stupor which + cold produces by keeping himself in constant exercise; and seeing that the + vessel was advancing, and that everything depended upon himself, he set to + work to scull the boat clear of the bar, and into quiet water. + </p> + <p> + Toward midnight one of the poor islanders expired; his companion threw + himself on his corpse and could not be persuaded to leave him. The dismal + night wore away amidst these horrors: as the day dawned, Weekes found + himself near the land. He steered directly for it, and at length, with the + aid of the surf, ran his boat high upon a sandy beach. + </p> + <p> + Finding that one of the Sandwich Islanders yet gave signs of life, he + aided him to leave the boat, and set out with him towards the adjacent + woods. The poor fellow, however, was too feeble to follow him, and Weekes + was soon obliged to abandon him to his fate and provide for his own + safety. Falling upon a beaten path, he pursued it, and after a few hours + came to a part of the coast, where, to his surprise and joy, he beheld the + ship at anchor and was met by the captain and his party. + </p> + <p> + After Weekes had related his adventures, three parties were despatched to + beat up the coast in search of the unfortunate islander. They returned at + night without success, though they had used the utmost diligence. On the + following day the search was resumed, and the poor fellow was at length + discovered lying beneath a group of rocks, his legs swollen, his feet torn + and bloody from walking through bushes and briars, and himself half-dead + with cold, hunger, and fatigue. Weekes and this islander were the only + survivors of the crew of the jolly-boat, and no trace was ever discovered + of Fox and his party. Thus eight men were lost on the first approach to + the coast; a commencement that cast a gloom over the spirits of the whole + party, and was regarded by some of the superstitious as an omen that boded + no good to the enterprise. + </p> + <p> + Towards night the Sandwich Islanders went on shore, to bury the body of + their unfortunate countryman who had perished in the boat. On arriving at + the place where it had been left, they dug a grave in the sand, in which + they deposited the corpse, with a biscuit under one of the arms, some lard + under the chin, and a small quantity of tobacco, as provisions for its + journey in the land of spirits. Having covered the body with sand and + flints, they kneeled along the grave in a double row, with their faces + turned to the east, while one who officiated as a priest sprinkled them + with water from a hat. In so doing he recited a kind of prayer or + invocation, to which, at intervals, the others made responses. Such were + the simple rites performed by these poor savages at the grave of their + comrade on the shores of a strange land; and when these were done, they + rose and returned in silence to the ship, without once casting a look + behind. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Mouth of the Columbia.—The Native Tribes.—Their Fishing.— + Their Canoes.—Bold Navigators—Equestrian Indians and + Piscatory Indians, Difference in Their Physical + Organization.—Search for a Trading Site.—Expedition of + M’Dougal and David Stuart-Comcomly, the One-Eyed Chieftain.— + Influence of Wealth in Savage Life.—Slavery Among the + Natives.-An Aristocracy of Flatheads.-Hospitality Among the + Chinooks—Comcomly’s Daughter.—Her Conquest. +</pre> + <p> + THE Columbia, or Oregon, for the distance of thirty or forty miles from + its entrance into the sea, is, properly speaking, a mere estuary, indented + by deep bays so as to vary from three to seven miles in width; and is + rendered extremely intricate and dangerous by shoals reaching nearly from + shore to shore, on which, at times, the winds and currents produce foaming + and tumultuous breakers. The mouth of the river proper is but about half a + mile wide, formed by the contracting shores of the estuary. The entrance + from the sea, as we have already observed, is bounded on the south side by + a flat sandy spit of land, stretching in to the ocean. This is commonly + called Point Adams. The opposite, or northern side, is Cape + Disappointment; a kind of peninsula, terminating in a steep knoll or + promontory crowned with a forest of pine-trees, and connected with the + mainland by a low and narrow neck. Immediately within this cape is a wide, + open bay, terminating at Chinook Point, so called from a neighboring tribe + of Indians. This was called Baker’s Bay, and here the Tonquin was + anchored. + </p> + <p> + The natives inhabiting the lower part of the river, and with whom the + company was likely to have the most frequent intercourse, were divided at + this time into four tribes, the Chinooks, Clatsops, Wahkiacums, and + Cathlamahs. They resembled each other in person, dress, language, and + manner; and were probably from the same stock, but broken into tribes, or + rather hordes, by those feuds and schisms frequent among Indians. + </p> + <p> + These people generally live by fishing. It is true they occasionally hunt + the elk and deer, and ensnare the water-fowl of their ponds and rivers, + but these are casual luxuries. Their chief subsistence is derived from the + salmon and other fish which abound in the Columbia and its tributary + streams, aided by roots and herbs, especially the wappatoo, which is found + on the islands of the river. + </p> + <p> + As the Indians of the plains who depend upon the chase are bold and expert + riders, and pride themselves upon their horses, so these piscatory tribes + of the coast excel in the management of canoes, and are never more at home + than when riding upon the waves. Their canoes vary in form and size. Some + are upwards of fifty feet long, cut out of a single tree, either fir or + white cedar, and capable of carrying thirty persons. They have thwart + pieces from side to side about three inches thick, and their gunwales + flare outwards, so as to cast off the surges of the waves. The bow and + stern are decorated with grotesque figures of men and animals, sometimes + five feet in height. + </p> + <p> + In managing their canoes they kneel two and two along the bottom, sitting + on their heels, and wielding paddles from four to five feet long, while + one sits on the stern and steers with a paddle of the same kind. The women + are equally expert with the men in managing the canoe, and generally take + the helm. + </p> + <p> + It is surprising to see with what fearless unconcern these savages venture + in their light barks upon the roughest and most tempestuous seas. They + seem to ride upon the waves like sea-fowl. Should a surge throw the canoe + upon its side and endanger its overturn, those to windward lean over the + upper gunwale, thrust their paddles deep into the wave, apparently catch + the water and force it under the canoe, and by this action not merely + regain III an equilibrium, but give their bark a vigorous impulse forward. + </p> + <p> + The effect of different modes of life upon the human frame and human + character is strikingly instanced in the contrast between the hunting + Indians of the prairies, and the piscatory Indians of the sea-coast. The + former, continually on horseback scouring the plains, gaining their food + by hardy exercise, and subsisting chiefly on flesh, are generally tall, + sinewy, meagre, but well formed, and of bold and fierce deportment: the + latter, lounging about the river banks, or squatting and curved up in + their canoes, are generally low in stature, ill-shaped, with crooked legs, + thick ankles, and broad flat feet. They are inferior also in muscular + power and activity, and in game qualities and appearance, to their + hard-riding brethren of the prairies. + </p> + <p> + Having premised these few particulars concerning the neighboring Indians, + we will return to the immediate concerns of the Tonquin and her crew. + </p> + <p> + Further search was made for Mr. Fox and his party, but with no better + success, and they were at length given up as lost. In the meantime, the + captain and some of the partners explored the river for some distance in a + large boat, to select a suitable place for the trading post. Their old + jealousies and differences continued; they never could coincide in their + choice, and the captain objected altogether to any site so high up the + river. They all returned, therefore, to Baker’s Bay in no very good humor. + The partners proposed to examine the opposite shore, but the captain was + impatient of any further delay. His eagerness to “get on” had increased + upon him. He thought all these excursions a sheer loss of time, and was + resolved to land at once, build a shelter for the reception of that part + of his cargo destined for the use of the settlement, and, having cleared + his ship of it and of his irksome shipmates, to depart upon the + prosecution of his coasting voyage, according to orders. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, therefore, without troubling himself to consult the + partners, he landed in Baker’s Bay, and proceeded to erect a shed for the + reception of the rigging, equipments, and stores of the schooner that was + to be built for the use of the settlement. + </p> + <p> + This dogged determination on the part of the sturdy captain gave high + offense to Mr. M’Dougal, who now considered himself at the head of the + concern, as Mr. Astor’s representative and proxy. He set off the same day, + (April 5th) accompanied by David Stuart, for the southern shore, intending + to be back by the seventh. Not having the captain to contend with, they + soon pitched upon a spot which appeared to them favorable for the intended + establishment. It was on a point of land called Point George, having a + very good harbor, where vessels, not exceeding two hundred tons burden, + might anchor within fifty yards of the shore. + </p> + <p> + After a day thus profitably spent, they recrossed the river, but landed on + the northern shore several miles above the anchoring ground of the + Tonquin, in the neighborhood of Chinooks, and visited the village of that + tribe. Here they were received with great hospitality by the chief, who + was named Comcomly, a shrewd old savage, with but one eye, who will + occasionally figure in this narrative. Each village forms a petty + sovereignty, governed by its own chief, who, however, possesses but little + authority, unless he be a man of wealth and substance; that is to say, + possessed of canoe, slaves, and wives. The greater the number of these, + the greater is the chief. How many wives this one-eyed potentate + maintained we are not told, but he certainly possessed great sway, not + merely over his own tribe, but over the neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + Having mentioned slaves, we would observe that slavery exists among + several of the tribes beyond the Rocky Mountains. The slaves are well + treated while in good health, but occupied in all kinds of drudgery. + Should they become useless, however, by sickness or old age, they are + totally neglected, and left to perish; nor is any respect paid to their + bodies after death. + </p> + <p> + A singular custom prevails, not merely among the Chinooks, but among most + of the tribes about this part of the coast, which is the flattening of the + forehead. The process by which this deformity is effected commences + immediately after birth. The infant is laid in a wooden trough, by way of + cradle. The end on which the head reposes is higher than the rest. A + padding is placed on the forehead of the infant, with a piece of bark + above it, and is pressed down by cords, which pass through holes on each + side of the trough. As the tightening of the padding and the pressing of + the head to the board is gradual, the process is said not to be attended + with much pain. The appearance of the infant, however, while in this state + of compression, is whimsically hideous, and “its little black eyes,” we + are told, “being forced out by the tightness of the bandages, resemble + those of a mouse choked in a trap.” + </p> + <p> + About a year’s pressure is sufficient to produce the desired effect, at + the end of which time the child emerges from its bandages a complete + flathead, and continues so through life. It must be noted that this + flattening of the head has something in it of aristocratical significancy, + like the crippling of the feet among the Chinese ladies of quality. At any + rate, it is a sign of freedom. No slave is permitted to bestow this + enviable deformity upon his child; all the slaves, therefore, are + roundheads. + </p> + <p> + With this worthy tribe of Chinooks the two partners passed a part of the + day very agreeably. M’Dougal, who was somewhat vain of his official rank, + had given it to be understood that they were two chiefs of a great trading + company, about to be established here, and the quick-sighted, though + one-eyed chief, who was somewhat practiced in traffic with white men, + immediately perceived the policy of cultivating the friendship of two such + important visitors. He regaled them, therefore, to the best of his + ability, with abundance of salmon and wappatoo. The next morning, April + 7th, they prepared to return to the vessel, according to promise. They had + eleven miles of open bay to traverse; the wind was fresh, the waves ran + high. Comcomly remonstrated with them on the hazard to which they would be + exposed. They were resolute, however, and launched their boat, while the + wary chieftain followed at some short distance in his canoe. Scarce had + they rowed a mile, when a wave broke over their boat and upset it. They + were in imminent peril of drowning, especially Mr. M’Dougal, who could not + swim. Comcomly, however, came bounding over the waves in his light canoe, + and snatched them from a watery grave. + </p> + <p> + They were taken on shore and a fire made, at which they dried their + clothes, after which Comcomly conducted them back to his village. Here + everything was done that could be devised for their entertainment during + three days that they were detained by bad weather. Comcomly made his + people perform antics before them; and his wives and daughters endeavored, + by all the soothing and endearing arts of women, to find favor in their + eyes. Some even painted their bodies with red clay, and anointed + themselves with fish oil, to give additional lustre to their charms. Mr. + M’Dougal seems to have had a heart susceptible to the influence of the + gentler sex. Whether or no it was first touched on this occasion we do not + learn; but it will be found, in the course of this work, that one of the + daughters of the hospitable Comcomly eventually made a conquest of the + great eri of the American Fur Company. + </p> + <p> + When the weather had moderated and the sea became tranquil, the one-eyed + chief of the Chinooks manned his state canoe, and conducted his guests in + safety to the ship, where they were welcomed with joy, for apprehensions + had been felt for their safety. Comcomly and his people were then + entertained on board of the Tonquin, and liberally rewarded for their + hospitality and services. They returned home highly satisfied, promising + to remain faithful friends and allies of the white men. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Point George—Founding of Astoria—Indian Visitors.—Their + Reception.—The Captain Taboos the Ship.—Departure of the + Tonquin.—Comments on the Conduct of Captain Thorn. +</pre> + <p> + FROM the report made by the two exploring partners, it was determined that + Point George should be the site of the trading house. These gentlemen, it + is true, were not perfectly satisfied with the place, and were desirous of + continuing their search; but Captain Thorn was impatient to land his cargo + and continue his voyage, and protested against any more of what he termed + “sporting excursions.” + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, on the 12th of April the launch was freighted with all things + necessary for the purpose, and sixteen persons departed in her to commence + the establishment, leaving the Tonquin to follow as soon as the harbor + could be sounded. + </p> + <p> + Crossing the wide mouth of the river, the party landed, and encamped at + the bottom of a small bay within Point George. The situation chosen for + the fortified post was on an elevation facing to the north, with the wide + estuary, its sand bars and tumultuous breakers spread out before it, and + the promontory of Cape Disappointment, fifteen miles distant, closing the + prospect to the left. The surrounding country was in all the freshness of + spring; the trees were in the young leaf, the weather was superb, and + everything looked delightful to men just emancipated from a long + confinement on shipboard. The Tonquin shortly afterwards made her way + through the intricate channel, an came to anchor in the little bay, and + was saluted from the encampment with three volleys of musketry and three + cheers. She returned the salute with three cheers and three guns. + </p> + <p> + All hands now set to work cutting down trees, clearing away thickets, and + marking out the place for the residence, storehouse, and powder magazine, + which were to be built of logs and covered with bark. Others landed the + timbers intended for the frame of the coasting vessel, and proceeded to + put them together, while others prepared a garden spot, and sowed the + seeds of various vegetables. + </p> + <p> + The next thought was to give a name to the embryo metropolis: the one that + naturally presented itself was that of the projector and supporter of the + whole enterprise. It was accordingly named ASTORIA. + </p> + <p> + The neighboring Indians now swarmed about the place. Some brought a few + land-otter and sea-otter skins to barter, but in very scanty parcels; the + greater number came prying about to gratify their curiosity, for they are + said to be impertinently inquisitive; while not a few came with no other + design than to pilfer; the laws of meum and tuum being but slightly + respected among them. Some of them beset the ship in their canoes, among + whom was the Chinook chief Comcomly, and his liege subjects. These were + well received by Mr. M’Dougal, who was delighted with an opportunity of + entering upon his functions, and acquiring importance in the eyes of his + future neighbors. The confusion thus produced on board, and the + derangement of the cargo caused by this petty trade, stirred the spleen of + the captain, who had a sovereign contempt for the one-eyed chieftain and + all his crew. He complained loudly of having his ship lumbered by a host + of “Indian ragamuffins,” who had not a skin to dispose of, and at length + put his positive interdict upon all trafficking on board. Upon this Mr. + M’Dougal was fain to land, and establish his quarters at the encampment, + where he could exercise his rights and enjoy his dignities without + control. + </p> + <p> + The feud, however, between these rival powers still continued, but was + chiefly carried on by letter. Day after day and week after week elapsed, + yet the store-house requisite for the reception of the cargo was not + completed, and the ship was detained in port; while the captain was teased + by frequent requisitions for various articles for the use of the + establishment, or the trade with the natives. An angry correspondence took + place, in which he complained bitterly of the time wasted in “smoking and + sporting parties,” as he termed the reconnoitering expeditions, and in + clearing and preparing meadow ground and turnip patches, instead of + despatching his ship. At length all these jarring matters were adjusted, + if not to the satisfaction, at least to the acquiescence of all parties. + The part of the cargo destined for the use of Astoria was landed, and the + ship left free to proceed on her voyage. + </p> + <p> + As the Tonquin was to coast to the north, to trade for peltries at the + different harbors, and to touch at Astoria on her return in the autumn, it + was unanimously determined that Mr. M’Kay should go in her as supercargo, + taking with him Mr. Lewis as ship’s clerk. On the first of June the ship + got under way, and dropped down to Baker’s Bay, where she was detained for + a few days by a head wind; but early in the morning of the fifth stood out + to sea with a fine breeze and swelling canvas, and swept off gaily on her + fatal voyage, from which she was never to return! + </p> + <p> + On reviewing the conduct of Captain Thorn, and examining his peevish and + somewhat whimsical correspondence, the impression left upon our mind is, + upon the whole, decidedly in his favor. While we smile at the simplicity + of his heart and the narrowness of his views, which made him regard + everything out of the direct path of his daily duty, and the rigid + exigencies of the service, as trivial and impertinent, which inspired him + with contempt for the swelling vanity of some of his coadjutors, and the + literary exercises and curious researches of others, we cannot but applaud + that strict and conscientious devotion to the interests of his employer, + and to what he considered the true objects of the enterprise in which he + was engaged. He certainly was to blame occasionally for the asperity of + his manners, and the arbitrary nature of his measures, yet much that is + exceptionable in this part of his conduct may be traced to rigid notions + of duty acquired in that tyrannical school, a ship of war, and to the + construction given by his companions to the orders of Mr. Astor, so little + in conformity with his own. His mind, too, appears to have become almost + diseased by the suspicions he had formed as to the loyalty of his + associates, and the nature of their ultimate designs; yet on this point + there were circumstances to, in some measure, justify him. The relations + between the United States and Great Britain were at that time in a + critical state; in fact, the two countries were on the eve of a war. + Several of the partners were British subjects, and might be ready to + desert the flag under which they acted, should a war take place. Their + application to the British minister at New York shows the dubious feeling + with which they had embarked in the present enterprise. They had been in + the employ of the Northwest Company, and might be disposed to rally again + under that association, should events threaten the prosperity of this + embryo establishment of Mr. Astor. Besides, we have the fact, averred to + us by one of the partners, that some of them, who were young and heedless, + took a mischievous and unwarrantable pleasure in playing upon the jealous + temper of the captain, and affecting mysterious consultations and sinister + movements. + </p> + <p> + These circumstances are cited in palliation of the doubts and surmises of + Captain Thorn, which might otherwise appear strange and unreasonable. That + most of the partners were perfectly upright and faithful in the discharge + of the trust reposed in them we are fully satisfied; still the honest + captain was not invariably wrong in his suspicions; and that he formed a + pretty just opinion of the integrity of that aspiring personage, Mr. + M’Dougal, will be substantially proved in the sequel. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Disquieting Rumors From the Interior.—Reconnoitring Party— + Preparations for a Trading Post.—An Unexpected Arrival—A + Spy in the Camp.—Expedition Into the Interior—Shores of + the Columbia—Mount Coffin.—Indian Sepulchre.—The Land of + Spirits—Columbian Valley—Vancouver’s Point.-Falls and + Rapids.—A Great Fishing Mart.—The Village of Wishram.— + Difference Between Fishing Indians and Hunting Indians— + Effects of Habits of Trade on the Indian Character.—Post + Established at the Oakinagan. +</pre> + <p> + WHILE the Astorians were busily occupied in completing their factory and + fort, a report was brought to them by an Indian from the upper part of the + river, that a party of thirty white men had appeared on the banks of the + Columbia, and were actually building houses at the second rapids. This + information caused much disquiet. We have already mentioned that the + Northwest Company had established posts to the west of the Rocky + Mountains, in a district called by them New Caledonia, which extended from + lat. 52 to 55 deg north, being within the British territories. It was now + apprehended that they were advancing within the American limits, and were + endeavoring to seize upon the upper part of the river and forestall the + American Fur Company in the surrounding trade; in which case bloody feuds + might be anticipated, such as had prevailed between the rival fur + companies in former days. + </p> + <p> + A reconnoitring party was sent up the river to ascertain the truth of the + report. They ascended to the foot of the first rapid, about two hundred + miles, but could hear nothing of any white men being in the neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + Not long after their return, however, further accounts were received, by + two wandering Indians, which established the fact that the Northwest + Company had actually erected a trading house on the Spokane River, which + falls into the north branch of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + What rendered this intelligence the more disquieting was the inability of + the Astorians, in their present reduced state as to numbers, and the + exigencies of their new establishment, to furnish detachments to penetrate + the country in different directions, and fix the posts necessary to secure + the interior trade. + </p> + <p> + It was resolved, however, at any rate, to advance a countercheck to this + post on the Spokan, and one of the partners, Mr. David Stuart, prepared to + set out for the purpose with eight men and a small assortment of goods. He + was to be guided by the two Indians, who knew the country and promised to + take him to a place not far from the Spokan River, and in a neighborhood + abounding with beaver. Here he was to establish himself and to remain for + a time, provided he found the situation advantageous and the natives + friendly. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th of July, when Mr. Stuart was nearly ready to embark, a canoe + made its appearance, standing for the harbor, and manned by nine white + men. Much speculation took place who these strangers could be, for it was + too soon to expect their own people, under Mr. Hunt, who were to cross the + continent. As the canoe drew near, the British standard was distinguished: + on coming to land, one of the crew stepped on shore, and announced himself + as Mr. David Thompson, astronomer, and partner of the Northwest Company. + According to his account, he had set out in the preceding year with a + tolerably strong party, and a supply of Indian goods, to cross the Rocky + Mountains. A part of his people, however, had deserted him on the eastern + side, and returned with the goods to the nearest Northwest post. He had + persisted in crossing the mountains with eight men, who remained true to + him. They had traversed the higher regions, and ventured near the source + of the Columbia, where, in the spring, they had constructed a cedar canoe, + the same in which they had reached Astoria. + </p> + <p> + This, in fact, was the party despatched by the Northwest Company to + anticipate Mr. Astor in his intention of effecting a settlement at the + mouth of the Columbia River. It appears, from information subsequently + derived from other sources, that Mr. Thompson had pushed on his course + with great haste, calling at all the Indian villages in his march, + presenting them with British flags, and even planting them at the forks of + the rivers, proclaiming formally that he took possession of the country in + the name of the king of Great Britain for the Northwest Company. As his + original plan was defeated by the desertion of his people, it is probable + that he descended the river simply to reconnoitre, and ascertain whether + an American settlement had been commenced. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Thompson was, no doubt, the first white man who descended the northern + branch of the Columbia from so near its source. Lewis and Clarke struck + the main body of the river at the forks, about four hundred miles from its + mouth. They entered it from Lewis River, its southern branch, and thence + descended. + </p> + <p> + Though Mr. Thompson could be considered as little better than a spy in the + camp, he was received with great cordiality by Mr. M’Dougal, who had a + lurking feeling of companionship and good-will for all of the Northwest + Company. He invited him to head-quarters, where he and his people were + hospitably entertained. Nay, further, being somewhat in extremity, he was + furnished by Mr. M’Dougal with goods and provisions for his journey back + across the mountains, much against the wishes Of Mr. David Stuart, who did + not think the object of his visit entitled him to any favor. + </p> + <p> + On the 23rd of July, Mr. Stuart set out upon his expedition to the + interior. His party consisted of four of the clerks, Messrs. Pillet, Ross, + M’Lennon, and Montigny, two Canadian voyageurs, and two natives of the + Sandwich Islands. They had three canoes well laden with provisions, and + with goods and necessities for a trading establishment. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Thompson and his party set out in company with them, it being his + intention to proceed direct to Montreal. The partners at Astoria forwarded + by him a short letter to Mr. Astor, informing him of their safe arrival at + the mouth of the Columbia, and that they had not yet heard of Mr. Hunt. + The little squadron of canoes set sail with a favorable breeze, and soon + passed Tongue Point, a long, high, and rocky promontory, covered with + trees, and stretching far into the river. Opposite to this, on the + northern shore, is a deep bay, where the Columbia anchored at the time of + the discovery, and which is still called Gray’s Bay, from the name of her + commander. + </p> + <p> + From hence, the general course of the river for about seventy miles was + nearly southeast; varying in breadth according to its bays and + indentations, and navigable for vessels of three hundred tons. The shores + were in some places high and rocky, with low marshy islands at their feet, + subject to inundation, and covered with willows, poplars, and other trees + that love an alluvial soil. Sometimes the mountains receded, and gave + place to beautiful plains and noble forests. While the river margin was + richly fringed with trees of deciduous foliage, the rough uplands were + crowned by majestic pines, and firs of gigantic size, some towering to the + height of between two and three hundred feet, with proportionate + circumference. Out of these the Indians wrought their great canoes and + pirogues. + </p> + <p> + At one part of the river, they passed, on the northern side, an isolated + rock, about one hundred and fifty feet high, rising from a low marshy + soil, and totally disconnected with the adjacent mountains. This was held + in great reverence by the neighboring Indians, being one of their + principal places of sepulture. The same provident care for the deceased + that prevails among the hunting tribes of the prairies is observable among + the piscatory tribes of the rivers and sea-coast. Among the former, the + favorite horse of the hunter is buried with him in the same funereal + mound, and his bow and arrows are laid by his side, that he may be + perfectly equipped for the “happy hunting grounds” of the land of spirits. + Among the latter, the Indian is wrapped in his mantle of skins, laid in + his canoe, with his paddle, his fishing spear, and other implements beside + him, and placed aloft on some rock or other eminence overlooking the + river, or bay, or lake, that he has frequented. He is thus fitted out to + launch away upon those placid streams and sunny lakes stocked with all + kinds of fish and waterfowl, which are prepared in the next world for + those who have acquitted themselves as good sons, good fathers, good + husbands, and, above all, good fishermen, during their mortal sojourn. + </p> + <p> + The isolated rock in question presented a spectacle of the kind, numerous + dead bodies being deposited in canoes on its summit; while on poles around + were trophies, or, rather, funeral offerings of trinkets, garments, + baskets of roots, and other articles for the use of the deceased. A + reverential feeling protects these sacred spots from robbery or insult. + The friends of the deceased, especially the women, repair here at sunrise + and sunset for some time after his death, singing his funeral dirge, and + uttering loud wailings and lamentations. + </p> + <p> + From the number of dead bodies in canoes observed upon this rock by the + first explorers of the river, it received the name of Mount Coffin, which + it continues to bear. + </p> + <p> + Beyond this rock they passed the mouth of a river on the right bank of the + Columbia, which appeared to take its rise in a distant mountain covered + with snow. The Indian name of this river was the Cowleskee. Some miles + further on they came to the great Columbian Valley, so called by Lewis and + Clarke. It is sixty miles in width, and extends far to the southeast + between parallel ridges of mountains, which bound it on the east and west. + Through the centre of this valley flowed a large and beautiful stream, + called the Wallamot, which came wandering for several miles, through a yet + unexplored wilderness. The sheltered situation of this immense valley had + an obvious effect upon the climate. It was a region of great beauty and + luxuriance, with lakes and pools, and green meadows shaded by noble + groves. Various tribes were said to reside in this valley, and along the + banks of the Wallamot. + </p> + <p> + About eight miles above the mouth of the Wallamot the little squadron + arrived at Vancouver’s Point, so called in honor of that celebrated + voyager by his lieutenant (Broughton) when he explored the river. This + point is said to present one of the most beautiful scenes on the Columbia; + a lovely meadow, with a silver sheet of limpid water in the center, + enlivened by wild-fowl, a range of hills crowned by forests, while the + prospect is closed by Mount Hood, a magnificent mountain rising into a + lofty peak, and covered with snow; the ultimate landmark of the first + explorers of the river. + </p> + <p> + Point Vancouver is about one hundred miles from Astoria. Here the reflux + of the tide ceases to be perceptible. To this place vessels of two and + three hundred tons burden may ascend. The party under the command of Mr. + Stuart had been three or four days in reaching it, though we have forborne + to notice their daily progress and nightly encampments. + </p> + <p> + From Point Vancouver the river turned towards the northeast, and became + more contracted and rapid, with occasional islands and frequent + sand-banks. These islands are furnished with a number of ponds, and at + certain seasons abound with swans, geese, brandts, cranes, gulls, plover, + and other wild-fowl. The shores, too, are low and closely wooded, with + such an undergrowth of vines and rushes as to be almost impassable. + </p> + <p> + About thirty miles above Point Vancouver the mountains again approach on + both sides of the river, which is bordered by stupendous precipices, + covered with the fir and the white cedar, and enlivened occasionally by + beautiful cascades leaping from a great height, and sending up wreaths of + vapor. One of these precipices, or cliffs, is curiously worn by time and + weather so as to have the appearance of a ruined fortress, with towers and + battlements, beetling high above the river, while two small cascades, one + hundred and fifty feet in height, pitch down from the fissures of the + rocks. + </p> + <p> + The turbulence and rapidity of the current continually augmenting as they + advanced, gave the voyagers intimation that they were approaching the + great obstructions of the river, and at length they arrived at Strawberry + Island, so called by Lewis and Clarke, which lies at the foot of the first + rapid. As this part of the Columbia will be repeatedly mentioned in the + course of this work, being the scene of some of its incidents, we shall + give a general description of it in this place. + </p> + <p> + The falls or rapids of the Columbia are situated about one hundred and + eighty miles above the mouth of the river. The first is a perpendicular + cascade of twenty feet, after which there is a swift descent for a mile, + between islands of hard black rock, to another pitch of eight feet divided + by two rocks. About two and a half miles below this the river expands into + a wide basin, seemingly dammed up by a perpendicular ridge of black rock. + A current, however, sets diagonally to the left of this rocky barrier, + where there is a chasm forty-five yards in width. Through this the whole + body of the river roars along, swelling and whirling and boiling for some + distance in the wildest confusion. Through this tremendous channel the + intrepid explorers of the river, Lewis and Clarke, passed in their boats; + the danger being, not from the rocks, but from the great surges and + whirlpools. + </p> + <p> + At the distance of a mile and a half from the foot of this narrow channel + is a rapid, formed by two rocky islands; and two miles beyond is a second + great fall, over a ledge of rocks twenty feet high, extending nearly from + shore to shore. The river is again compressed into a channel from fifty to + a hundred feet wide, worn through a rough bed of hard black rock, along + which it boils and roars with great fury for the distance of three miles. + This is called “The Long Narrows.” + </p> + <p> + Here is the great fishing place of the Columbia. In the spring of the + year, when the water is high, the salmon ascend the river in incredible + numbers. As they pass through this narrow strait, the Indians, standing on + the rocks, or on the end of wooden stages projecting from the banks, scoop + them up with small nets distended on hoops and attached to long handles, + and cast them on the shore. + </p> + <p> + They are then cured and packed in a peculiar manner. After having been + opened and disemboweled, they are exposed to the sun on scaffolds erected + on the river banks. When sufficiently dry, they are pounded fine between + two stones, pressed into the smallest compass, and packed in baskets or + bales of grass matting, about two feet long and one in diameter, lined + with the cured skin of a salmon. The top is likewise covered with fish + skins, secured by cords passing through holes in the edge of the basket. + Packages are then made, each containing twelve of these bales, seven at + bottom, five at top, pressed close to each other, with the corded side + upward, wrapped in mats and corded. These are placed in dry situations, + and again covered with matting. Each of these packages contains from + ninety to a hundred pounds of dried fish, which in this state will keep + sound for several years.** + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + **(Lewis and Clarke, vol. ii. p. 32.) +</pre> + <p> + We have given this process at some length, as furnished by the first + explorers, because it marks a practiced ingenuity in preparing articles of + traffic for a market, seldom seen among our aboriginals. For like reason + we would make especial mention of the village of Wishram, at the head of + the Long Narrows, as being a solitary instance of an aboriginal trading + mart, or emporium. Here the salmon caught in the neighboring rapids were + “warehoused,” to await customers. Hither the tribes from the mouth of the + Columbia repaired with the fish of the sea-coast, the roots, berries, and + especially the wappatoo, gathered in the lower parts of the river, + together with goods and trinkets obtained from the ships which casually + visit the coast. Hither also the tribes from the Rocky Mountains brought + down horses, bear-grass, quamash, and other commodities of the interior. + The merchant fishermen at the falls acted as middlemen or factors, and + passed the objects of traffic, as it were, cross-handed; trading away part + of the wares received from the mountain tribes to those of the rivers and + plains, and vice versa: their packages of pounded salmon entered largely + into the system of barter, and being carried off in opposite directions, + found their way to the savage hunting camps far in the interior, and to + the casual white traders who touched upon the coast. + </p> + <p> + We have already noticed certain contrarieties of character between the + Indian tribes, produced by their diet and mode of life; and nowhere are + they more apparent than about the falls of the Columbia. The Indians of + this great fishing mart are represented by the earliest explorers as + sleeker and fatter, but less hardy and active, than the tribes of the + mountains and prairies, who live by hunting, or of the upper parts of the + river, where fish is scanty, and the inhabitants must eke out their + subsistence by digging roots or chasing the deer. Indeed, whenever an + Indian of the upper country is too lazy to hunt, yet is fond of good + living, he repairs to the falls, to live in abundance without labor. + </p> + <p> + “By such worthless dogs as these,” says an honest trader in his journal, + which now lies before us, “by such worthless dogs as these are these noted + fishing-places peopled, which, like our great cities, may with propriety + be called the headquarters of vitiated principles.” + </p> + <p> + The habits of trade and the avidity of gain have their corrupting effects + even in the wilderness, as may be instanced in the members of this + aboriginal emporium; for the same journalist denounces them as “saucy, + impudent rascals, who will steal when they can, and pillage whenever a + weak party falls in their power.” + </p> + <p> + That he does not belie them will be evidenced hereafter, when we have + occasion again to touch at Wishram and navigate the rapids. In the present + instance the travellers effected the laborious ascent of this part of the + river, with all its various portages, without molestation, and once more + launched away in smooth water above the high falls. + </p> + <p> + The two parties continued together, without material impediment, for three + or four hundred miles further up the Columbia; Mr. Thompson appearing to + take great interest in the success of Mr. Stuart, and pointing out places + favorable, as he said, to the establishment of his contemplated trading + post. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart, who distrusted his sincerity, at length pretended to adopt his + advice, and, taking leave of him, remained as if to establish himself, + while the other proceeded on his course towards the mountains. No sooner, + however, had he fairly departed than Mr. Stuart again pushed forward, + under guidance of the two Indians, nor did he stop until he had arrived + within about one hundred and forty miles of the Spokan River, which he + considered near enough to keep the rival establishment in check. The place + which he pitched upon for his trading post was a point of land about three + miles in length and two in breadth, formed by the junction of the + Oakinagan with the Columbia. The former is a river which has its source in + a considerable lake about one hundred and fifty miles west of the point of + junction. The two rivers, about the place of their confluence, are + bordered by immense prairies covered with herbage, but destitute of trees. + The point itself was ornamented with wild flowers of every hue, in which + innumerable humming-birds were “banqueting nearly the livelong day.” + </p> + <p> + The situation of this point appeared to be well adapted for a trading + post. The climate was salubrious, the soil fertile, the rivers well + stocked with fish, the natives peaceable and friendly. There were easy + communications with the interior by the upper waters of the Columbia and + the lateral stream of the Oakinagan, while the downward current of the + Columbia furnished a highway to Astoria. + </p> + <p> + Availing himself, therefore, of the driftwood which had collected in + quantities in the neighboring bends of the river, Mr. Stuart and his men + set to work to erect a house, which in a little while was sufficiently + completed for their residence; and thus was established the first interior + post of the company. We will now return to notice the progress of affairs + at the mouth of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Alarm at Astoria.—Rumor of Indian Hostilities.— + Preparations for Defense.—Tragic Fate of the Tonquin. +</pre> + <p> + THE sailing of the Tonquin, and the departure of Mr. David Stuart and his + detachment, had produced a striking effect on affairs at Astoria. The + natives who had swarmed about the place began immediately to drop off, + until at length not an Indian was to be seen. This, at first, was + attributed to the want of peltries with which to trade; but in a little + while the mystery was explained in a more alarming manner. A conspiracy + was said to be on foot among the neighboring tribes to make a combined + attack upon the white men, now that they were so reduced in number. For + this purpose there had been a gathering of warriors in a neighboring bay, + under pretext of fishing for sturgeon; and fleets of canoes were expected + to join them from the north and South. Even Comcomly, the one-eyed chief, + notwithstanding his professed friendship for Mr. M’Dougal, was strongly + suspected of being concerned in this general combination. + </p> + <p> + Alarmed at rumors of this impending danger, the Astorians suspended their + regular labor, and set to work, with all haste, to throw up temporary + works for refuge and defense. In the course of a few days they surrounded + their dwelling-house and magazines with a picket fence ninety feet square, + flanked by two bastions, on which were mounted four four-pounders. Every + day they exercised themselves in the use of their weapons, so as to + qualify themselves for military duty, and at night ensconced themselves in + their fortress and posted sentinels, to guard against surprise. In this + way they hoped, even in case of attack, to be able to hold out until the + arrival of the party to be conducted by Mr. Hunt across the Rocky + Mountains, or until the return of the Tonquin. The latter dependence, + however, was doomed soon to be destroyed. Early in August, a wandering + band of savages from the Strait of Juan de Fuca made their appearance at + the mouth of the Columbia, where they came to fish for sturgeon. They + brought disastrous accounts of the Tonquin, which were at first treated as + fables, but which were too sadly confirmed by a different tribe that + arrived a few days subsequently. We shall relate the circumstances of this + melancholy affair as correctly as the casual discrepancies in the + statements that have reached us will permit. + </p> + <p> + We have already stated that the Tonquin set sail from the mouth of the + river on the fifth of June. The whole number of persons on board amounted + to twenty-three. In one of the outer bays they picked up, from a fishing + canoe, an Indian named Lamazee, who had already made two voyages along the + coast and knew something of the language of the various tribes. He agreed + to accompany them as interpreter. + </p> + <p> + Steering to the north, Captain Thorn arrived in a few days at Vancouver’s + Island, and anchored in the harbor of Neweetee, very much against the + advice of his Indian interpreter, who warned him against the perfidious + character of the natives of this part of the coast. Numbers of canoes soon + came off, bringing sea-otter skins to sell. It was too late in the day to + commence a traffic, but Mr. M’Kay, accompanied by a few of the men, went + on shore to a large village to visit Wicananish, the chief of the + surrounding territory, six of the natives remaining on board as hostages. + He was received with great professions of friendship, entertained + hospitably, and a couch of sea-otter skins prepared for him in the + dwelling of the chieftain, where he was prevailed upon to pass the night. + </p> + <p> + In the morning, before Mr. M’Kay had returned to the ship, great numbers + of the natives came off in their canoes to trade, headed by two sons of + Wicananish. As they brought abundance of sea-otter skins, and there was + every appearance of a brisk trade, Captain Thorn did not wait for the + return of Mr. M’Kay, but spread his wares upon the deck, making a tempting + display of blankets, cloths, knives, beads, and fish-hooks, expecting a + prompt and profitable sale. The Indians, however, were not so eager and + simple as he had supposed, having learned the art of bargaining and the + value of merchandise from the casual traders along the coast. They were + guided, too, by a shrewd old chief named Nookamis, who had grown gray in + traffic with New England skippers, and prided himself upon his acuteness. + His opinion seemed to regulate the market. When Captain Thorn made what he + considered a liberal offer for an otter-skin, the wily old Indian treated + it with scorn, and asked more than double. His comrades all took their cue + from him, and not an otter-skin was to be had at a reasonable rate. + </p> + <p> + The old fellow, however, overshot his mark, and mistook the character of + the man he was treating with. Thorn was a plain, straightforward sailor, + who never had two minds nor two prices in his dealings, was deficient in + patience and pliancy, and totally wanting in the chicanery of traffic. He + had a vast deal of stern but honest pride in his nature, and, moreover, + held the whole savage race in sovereign contempt. Abandoning all further + attempts, therefore, to bargain with his shuffling customers, he thrust + his hands into his pockets, and paced up and down the deck in sullen + silence. The cunning old Indian followed him to and fro, holding out a + sea-otter skin to him at every turn, and pestering him to trade. Finding + other means unavailing, he suddenly changed his tone, and began to jeer + and banter him upon the mean prices he offered. This was too much for the + patience of the captain, who was never remarkable for relishing a joke, + especially when at his own expense. Turning suddenly upon his persecutor, + he snatched the proffered otter-skin from his hands, rubbed it in his + face, and dismissed him over the side of the ship with no very + complimentary application to accelerate his exit. He then kicked the + peltries to the right and left about the deck, and broke up the market in + the most ignominious manner. Old Nookamis made for shore in a furious + passion, in which he was joined by Shewish, one of the sons of Wicananish, + who went off breathing vengeance, and the ship was soon abandoned by the + natives. + </p> + <p> + When Mr. M’Kay returned on board, the interpreter related what had passed, + and begged him to prevail upon the captain to make sail, as from his + knowledge of the temper and pride of the people of the place, he was sure + they would resent the indignity offered to one of their chiefs. Mr. M’Kay, + who himself possessed some experience of Indian character, went to the + captain, who was still pacing the deck in moody humor, represented the + danger to which his hasty act had exposed the vessel, and urged him to + weigh anchor. The captain made light of his counsels, and pointed to his + cannon and fire-arms as sufficient safeguard against naked savages. + Further remonstrances only provoked taunting replies and sharp + altercations. The day passed away without any signs of hostility, and at + night the captain retired as usual to his cabin, taking no more than the + usual precautions. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning, at daybreak, while the captain and Mr. M’Kay + were yet asleep, a canoe came alongside in which were twenty Indians, + commanded by young Shewish. They were unarmed, their aspect and demeanor + friendly, and they held up otter-skins, and made signs indicative of a + wish to trade. The caution enjoined by Mr. Astor, in respect to the + admission of Indians on board of the ship, had been neglected for some + time past, and the officer of the watch, perceiving those in the canoe to + be without weapons, and having received no orders to the contrary, readily + permitted them to mount the deck. Another canoe soon succeeded, the crew + of which was likewise admitted. In a little while other canoes came off, + and Indians were soon clambering into the vessel on all sides. + </p> + <p> + The officer of the watch now felt alarmed, and called to Captain Thorn and + Mr. M’Kay. By the time they came on deck, it was thronged with Indians. + The interpreter noticed to Mr. M’Kay that many of the natives wore short + mantles of skins, and intimated a suspicion that they were secretly armed. + Mr. M’Kay urged the captain to clear the ship and get under way. He again + made light of the advice; but the augmented swarm of canoes about the + ship, and the numbers still putting off from shore, at length awakened his + distrust, and he ordered some of the crew to weigh anchor, while some were + sent aloft to make sail. + </p> + <p> + The Indians now offered to trade with the captain on his own terms, + prompted, apparently, by the approaching departure of the ship. + Accordingly, a hurried trade was commenced. The main articles sought by + the savages in barter were knives; as fast as some were supplied they + moved off, and others succeeded. By degrees they were thus distributed + about the deck, and all with weapons. + </p> + <p> + The anchor was now nearly up, the sails were loose, and the captain, in a + loud and peremptory tone, ordered the ship to be cleared. In an instant, a + signal yell was given; it was echoed on every side, knives and war-clubs + were brandished in every direction, and the savages rushed upon their + marked victims. + </p> + <p> + The first that fell was Mr. Lewis, the ship’s clerk. He was leaning, with + folded arms, over a bale of blankets, engaged in bargaining, when he + received a deadly stab in the back, and fell down the companion-way. + </p> + <p> + Mr. M’Kay, who was seated on the taffrail, sprang on his feet, but was + instantly knocked down with a war-club and flung backwards into the sea, + where he was despatched by the women in the canoes. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime Captain Thorn made desperate fight against fearful odds. + He was a powerful as well as a resolute man, but he had come upon deck + without weapons. Shewish, the young chief singled him out as his peculiar + prey, and rushed upon him at the first outbreak. The captain had barely + time to draw a clasp-knife with one blow of which he laid the young savage + dead at his feet. Several of the stoutest followers of Shewish now set + upon him. He defended himself vigorously, dealing crippling blows to right + and left, and strewing the quarter-deck with the slain and wounded. His + object was to fight his way to the cabin, where there were fire-arms; but + he was hemmed in with foes, covered with wounds, and faint with loss of + blood. For an instant he leaned upon the tiller wheel, when a blow from + behind, with a war-club, felled him to the deck, where he was despatched + with knives and thrown overboard. + </p> + <p> + While this was transacting upon the quarter-deck, a chance-medley fight + was going on throughout the ship. The crew fought desperately with knives, + handspikes, and whatever weapon they could seize upon in the moment of + surprise. They were soon, however, overpowered by numbers, and mercilessly + butchered. + </p> + <p> + As to the seven who had been sent aloft to make sail, they contemplated + with horror the carnage that was going on below. Being destitute of + weapons, they let themselves down by the running rigging, in hopes of + getting between decks. One fell in the attempt, and was instantly + despatched; another received a death-blow in the back as he was + descending; a third, Stephen Weekes, the armorer, was mortally wounded as + he was getting down the hatchway. + </p> + <p> + The remaining four made good their retreat into the cabin, where they + found Mr. Lewis, still alive, though mortally wounded. Barricading the + cabin door, they broke holes through the companion-way, and, with the + muskets and ammunition which were at hand, opened a brisk fire that soon + cleared the deck. + </p> + <p> + Thus far the Indian interpreter, from whom these particulars are derived, + had been an eye-witness to the deadly conflict. He had taken no part in + it, and had been spared by the natives as being of their race. In the + confusion of the moment he took refuge with the rest, in the canoes. The + survivors of the crew now sallied forth, and discharged some of the + deck-guns, which did great execution among the canoes, and drove all the + savages to shore. + </p> + <p> + For the remainder of the day no one ventured to put off to the ship, + deterred by the effects of the fire-arms. The night passed away without + any further attempts on the part of the natives. When the day dawned, the + Tonquin still lay at anchor in the bay, her sails all loose and flapping + in the wind, and no one apparently on board of her. After a time, some of + the canoes ventured forth to reconnoitre, taking with them the + interpreter. + </p> + <p> + They paddled about her, keeping cautiously at a distance, but growing more + and more emboldened at seeing her quiet and lifeless. One man at length + made his appearance on the deck, and was recognized by the interpreter as + Mr. Lewis. He made friendly signs, and invited them on board. It was long + before they ventured to comply. Those who mounted the deck met with no + opposition; no one was to be seen on board; for Mr. Lewis, after inviting + them, had disappeared. Other canoes now pressed forward to board the + prize; the decks were soon crowded, and the sides covered with clambering + savages, all intent on plunder. In the midst of their eagerness and + exultation, the ship blew up with a tremendous explosion. Arms, legs, and + mutilated bodies were blown into the air, and dreadful havoc was made in + the surrounding canoes. The interpreter was in the main-chains at the time + of the explosion, and was thrown unhurt into the water, where he succeeded + in getting into one of the canoes. According to his statement, the bay + presented an awful spectacle after the catastrophe. The ship had + disappeared, but the bay was covered with fragments of the wreck, with + shattered canoes, and Indians swimming for their lives, or struggling in + the agonies of death; while those who had escaped the danger remained + aghast and stupefied, or made with frantic panic for the shore. Upwards of + a hundred savages were destroyed by the explosion, many more were + shockingly mutilated, and for days afterwards the limbs and bodies of the + slain were thrown upon the beach. + </p> + <p> + The inhabitants of Neweetee were overwhelmed with consternation at this + astounding calamity, which had burst upon them in the very moment of + triumph. The warriors sat mute and mournful, while the women filled the + air with loud lamentations. Their weeping and walling, however, was + suddenly changed into yells of fury at the sight of four unfortunate white + men, brought captive into the village. They had been driven on shore in + one of the ship’s boats, and taken at some distance along the coast. + </p> + <p> + The interpreter was permitted to converse with them. They proved to be the + four brave fellows who had made such desperate defense from the cabin. The + interpreter gathered from them some of the particulars already related. + They told him further, that after they had beaten off the enemy and + cleared the ship, Lewis advised that they should slip the cable and + endeavor to get to sea. They declined to take his advice, alleging that + the wind set too strongly into the bay and would drive them on shore. They + resolved, as soon as it was dark, to put off quietly in the ship’s boat, + which they would be able to do unperceived, and to coast along back to + Astoria. They put their resolution into effect; but Lewis refused to + accompany them, being disabled by his wound, hopeless of escape, and + determined on a terrible revenge. On the voyage out, he had repeatedly + expressed a presentiment that he should die by his own hands; thinking it + highly probable that he should be engaged in some contest with the + natives, and being resolved, in case of extremity, to commit suicide + rather than be made a prisoner. He now declared his intention to remain on + board of the ship until daylight, to decoy as many of the savages on board + as possible, then to set fire to the powder magazine, and terminate his + life by a signal of vengeance. How well he succeeded has been shown. His + companions bade him a melancholy adieu, and set off on their precarious + expedition. They strove with might and main to get out of the bay, but + found it impossible to weather a point of land, and were at length + compelled to take shelter in a small cove, where they hoped to remain + concealed until the wind should be more favorable. Exhausted by fatigue + and watching, they fell into a sound sleep, and in that state were + surprised by the savages. Better had it been for those unfortunate men had + they remained with Lewis, and shared his heroic death: as it was, they + perished in a more painful and protracted manner, being sacrificed by the + natives to the manes of their friends with all the lingering tortures of + savage cruelty. Some time after their death, the interpreter, who had + remained a kind of prisoner at large, effected his escape, and brought the + tragical tidings to Astoria. + </p> + <p> + Such is the melancholy story of the Tonquin, and such was the fate of her + brave but headstrong commander, and her adventurous crew. It is a + catastrophe that shows the importance, in all enterprises of moment, to + keep in mind the general instructions of the sagacious heads which devise + them. Mr. Astor was well aware of the perils to which ships were exposed + on this coast from quarrels with the natives, and from perfidious attempts + of the latter to surprise and capture them in unguarded moments. He had + repeatedly enjoined it upon Captain Thorn, in conversation, and at + parting, in his letter of instructions, to be courteous and kind in his + dealings with the savages, but by no means to confide in their apparent + friendship, nor to admit more than a few on board of his ship at a time. + </p> + <p> + Had the deportment of Captain Thorn been properly regulated, the insult so + wounding to savage pride would never have been given. Had he enforced the + rule to admit but a few at a time, the savages would not have been able to + get the mastery. He was too irritable, however, to practice the necessary + self-command, and, having been nurtured in a proud contempt of danger, + thought it beneath him to manifest any fear of a crew of unarmed savages. + </p> + <p> + With all his faults and foibles, we cannot but speak of him with esteem, + and deplore his untimely fate; for we remember him well in early life, as + a companion in pleasant scenes and joyous hours. When on shore, among his + friends, he was a frank, manly, sound-hearted sailor. On board ship he + evidently assumed the hardness of deportment and sternness of demeanor + which many deem essential to naval service. Throughout the whole of the + expedition, however, he showed himself loyal, single-minded, + straightforward, and fearless; and if the fate of his vessel may be + charged to his harshness and imprudence, we should recollect that he paid + for his error with his life. + </p> + <p> + The loss of the Tonquin was a grievous blow to the infant establishment of + Astoria, and one that threatened to bring after it a train of disasters. + The intelligence of it did not reach Mr. Astor until many months + afterwards. He felt it in all its force, and was aware that it must + cripple, if not entirely defeat, the great scheme of his ambition. In his + letters, written at the time, he speaks of it as “a calamity, the length + of which he could not foresee.” He indulged, however, in no weak and vain + lamentation, but sought to devise a prompt and efficient remedy. The very + same evening he appeared at the theatre with his usual serenity of + countenance. A friend, who knew the disastrous intelligence he had + received, expressed his astonishment that he could have calmness of spirit + sufficient for such a scene of light amusement. “What would you have me + do?” was his characteristic reply; “would you have me stay at home and + weep for what I cannot help?” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Gloom at Astoria—An Ingenious Stratagem.—The Small-Pox + Chief.—Launching of the Dolly.-An Arrival.—A Canadian + Trapper.-A Freeman of the Forest—An Iroquois Hunter.— + Winter on the Columbia.-Festivities of New Year. +</pre> + <p> + THE tidings of the loss of the Tonquin, and the massacre of her crew, + struck dismay into the hearts of the Astorians. They found themselves a + mere handful of men, on a savage coast, surrounded by hostile tribes, who + would doubtless be incited and encouraged to deeds of violence by the late + fearful catastrophe. In this juncture Mr. M’Dougal, we are told, had + recourse to a stratagem by which to avail himself of the ignorance and + credulity of the savages, and which certainly does credit to his + ingenuity. + </p> + <p> + The natives of the coast, and, indeed, of all the regions west of the + mountains, had an extreme dread of the small-pox; that terrific scourge + having, a few years previously, appeared among them, and almost swept off + entire tribes. Its origin and nature were wrapped in mystery, and they + conceived it an evil inflicted upon them by the Great Spirit, or brought + among them by the white men. The last idea was seized upon by Mr. + M’Dougal. He assembled several of the chieftains whom he believed to be in + the conspiracy. When they were all seated around, he informed them that he + had heard of the treachery of some of their northern brethren towards the + Tonquin, and was determined on vengeance. “The white men among you,” said + he, “are few in number, it is true, but they are mighty in medicine. See + here,” continued he, drawing forth a small bottle and holding it before + their eyes, “in this bottle I hold the small-pox, safely corked up; I have + but to draw the cork, and let loose the pestilence, to sweep man, woman, + and child from the face of the earth.” + </p> + <p> + The chiefs were struck with horror and alarm. They implored him not to + uncork the bottle, since they and all their people were firm friends of + the white men, and would always remain so; but, should the small-pox be + once let out, it would run like wildfire throughout the country, sweeping + off the good as well as the bad; and surely he would not be so unjust as + to punish his friends for crimes committed by his enemies. + </p> + <p> + Mr. M’Dougal pretended to be convinced by their reasoning, and assured + them that, so long as the white people should be unmolested, and the + conduct of their Indian neighbors friendly and hospitable, the phial of + wrath should remain sealed up; but, on the least hostility, the fatal cork + should be drawn. + </p> + <p> + From this time, it is added, he was much dreaded by the natives, as one + who held their fate in his hands, and was called, by way of preeminence, + “the Great Small-pox Chief.” + </p> + <p> + All this while, the labors at the infant settlement went on with + unremitting assiduity, and, by the 26th of September, a commodious + mansion, spacious enough to accommodate all hands, was completed. It was + built of stone and clay, there being no calcarcous stone in the + neighborhood from which lime for mortar could be procured. The schooner + was also finished, and launched, with the accustomed ceremony, on the + second of October, and took her station below the fort. She was named the + Dolly, and was the first American vessel launched on this coast. + </p> + <p> + On the 5th of October, in the evening, the little community at Astoria was + enlivened by the unexpected arrival of a detachment from Mr. David + Stuart’s post on the Oakinagan. It consisted of two of the clerks and two + of the privates. They brought favorable accounts of the new establishment, + but reported that, as Mr. Stuart was apprehensive there might be a + difficulty of subsisting his whole party throughout the winter, he had + sent one half back to Astoria, retaining with him only Ross, Montigny, and + two others. Such is the hardihood of the Indian trader. In the heart of a + savage and unknown country, seven hundred miles from the main body of his + fellow-adventurers, Stuart had dismissed half of his little number, and + was prepared with the residue to brave all the perils of the wilderness, + and the rigors of a long and dreary winter. + </p> + <p> + With the return party came a Canadian creole named Regis Brugiere and an + Iroquois hunter, with his wife and two children. As these two personages + belong to certain classes which have derived their peculiar + characteristics from the fur trade, we deem some few particulars + concerning them pertinent to the nature of this work. + </p> + <p> + Brugiere was of a class of beaver trappers and hunters technically called + “Freemen,” in the language of the traders. They are generally Canadians by + birth, and of French descent, who have been employed for a term of years + by some fur company, but, their term being expired, continue to hunt and + trap on their own account, trading with the company like the Indians. + Hence they derive their appellation of Freemen, to distinguish them from + the trappers who are bound for a number of years, and receive wages, or + hunt on shares. + </p> + <p> + Having passed their early youth in the wilderness, separated almost + entirely from civilized man, and in frequent intercourse with the Indians, + they relapse, with a facility common to human nature, into the habitudes + of savage life. Though no longer bound by engagements to continue in the + interior, they have become so accustomed to the freedom of the forest and + the prairie, that they look back with repugnance upon the restraints of + civilization. Most of them intermarry with the natives, and, like the + latter, have often a plurality of wives. Wanderers of the wilderness, + according to the vicissitudes of the seasons, the migrations of animals, + and the plenty or scarcity of game, they lead a precarious and unsettled + existence; exposed to sun and storm, and all kinds of hardships, until + they resemble Indians in complexion as well as in tastes and habits. From + time to time, they bring the peltries they have collected to the trading + houses of the company in whose employ they have been brought up. Here they + traffic them away for such articles of merchandise or ammunition as they + may stand in need of. At the time when Montreal was the great emporium of + the fur trader, one of these freemen of the wilderness would suddenly + return, after an absence of many years, among his old friends and + comrades. He would be greeted as one risen from the dead; and with the + greater welcome, as he returned flush of money. A short time, however, + spent in revelry, would be sufficient to drain his purse and sate him with + civilized life, and he would return with new relish to the unshackled + freedom of the forest. + </p> + <p> + Numbers of men of this class were scattered throughout the northwest + territories. Some of them retained a little of the thrift and forethought + of the civilized man, and became wealthy among their improvident + neighbors; their wealth being chiefly displayed in large bands of horses, + which covered the prairies in the vicinity of their abodes. Most of them, + however, were prone to assimilate to the red man in their heedlessness of + the future. + </p> + <p> + Such was Regis Brugiere, a freeman and rover of the wilderness. Having + been brought up in the service of the Northwest Company, he had followed + in the train of one of its expeditions across the Rocky Mountains, and + undertaken to trap for the trading post established on the Spokan River. + In the course of his hunting excursions he had either accidentally, or + designedly, found his way to the post of Mr. Stuart, and had been + prevailed upon to ascend the Columbia, and “try his luck” at Astoria. + </p> + <p> + Ignace Shonowane, the Iroquois hunter, was a specimen of a different + class. He was one of those aboriginals of Canada who had partially + conformed to the habits of civilization and the doctrines of Christianity, + under the influence of the French colonists and the Catholic priests; who + seem generally to have been more successful in conciliating, taming, and + converting the savages, than their English and Protestant rivals. These + half-civilized Indians retained some of the good, and many of the evil + qualities of their original stock. They were first-rate hunters, and + dexterous in the management of the canoe. They could undergo great + privations, and were admirable for the service of the rivers, lakes, and + forests, provided they could be kept sober, and in proper subordination; + but once inflamed with liquor, to which they were madly addicted, all the + dormant passions inherent in their nature were prone to break forth, and + to hurry them into the most vindictive and bloody acts of violence. + </p> + <p> + Though they generally professed the Roman Catholic religion, yet it was + mixed, occasionally, with some of their ancient superstitions; and they + retained much of the Indian belief in charms and omens. Numbers of these + men were employed by the Northwest Company as trappers, hunters, and canoe + men, but on lower terms than were allowed to white men. Ignace Shonowane + had, in this way, followed the enterprise of the company to the banks of + the Spokan, being, probably, one of the first of his tribe that had + traversed the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + Such were some of the motley populace of the wilderness, incident to the + fur trade, who were gradually attracted to the new settlement of Astoria. + </p> + <p> + The month of October now began to give indications of approaching winter. + Hitherto, the colonists had been well pleased with the climate. The summer + had been temperate, the mercury never rising above eighty degrees. + Westerly winds had prevailed during the spring and the early part of the + summer, and been succeeded by fresh breezes from the northwest. In the + month of October the southerly winds set in, bringing with them frequent + rain. + </p> + <p> + The Indians now began to quit the borders of the ocean, and to retire to + their winter quarters in the sheltered bosom of the forests, or along the + small rivers and brooks. The rainy season, which commences in October, + continues, with little intermission, until April; and though the winters + are generally mild, the mercury seldom sinking below the freezing point, + yet the tempests of wind and rain are terrible. The sun is sometimes + obscured for weeks, the brooks swell into roaring torrents, and the + country is threatened with a deluge. + </p> + <p> + The departure of the Indians to their winter quarters gradually rendered + provisions scanty, and obliged the colonists to send out foraging + expeditions in the Dolly. Still the little handful of adventurers kept up + their spirits in their lonely fort at Astoria, looking forward to the time + when they should be animated and reinforced by the party under Mr. Hunt, + that was to come to them across the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + The year gradually wore way. The rain, which had poured down almost + incessantly since the first of October, cleared up towards the evening of + the 31st of December, and the morning of the first of January ushered in a + day of sunshine. + </p> + <p> + The hereditary French holiday spirit of the French voyageurs is hardly to + be depressed by any adversities; and they can manage to get up a fete in + the most squalid situations, and under the most untoward circumstances. An + extra allowance of rum, and a little flour to make cakes and puddings, + constitute a “regale;” and they forget all their toils and troubles in the + song and dance. + </p> + <p> + On the present occasion, the partners endeavored to celebrate the new year + with some effect. At sunrise the drums beat to arms, the colors were + hoisted, with three rounds of small arms and three discharges of cannon. + The day was devoted to games of agility and strength, and other + amusements; and grog was temperately distributed, together with bread, + butter, and cheese. The best dinner their circumstances could afford was + served up at midday. At sunset the colors were lowered, with another + discharge of artillery. The night was spent in dancing; and, though there + was a lack of female partners to excite their gallantry, the voyageurs + kept up the ball with true French spirit, until three o’clock in the + morning. So passed the new year festival of 1812 at the infant colony of + Astoria. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Expedition by Land.—Wilson P. Hunt.—His Character.—Donald + M’Kenzie.—Recruiting Service Among the Voyageurs.—A Bark + Canoe.—Chapel of St. Anne.-Votive Offerings.—Pious + Carousals,—A Ragged Regiment.-Mackinaw.—Picture of a + Trading Post.—Frolicking Voyageurs.—Swells and Swaggerers.— + Indian Coxcombs.—A Man of the North.—Jockeyship of + Voyageurs—Inefficacy of Gold.-Weight of a Feather—Mr. + Ramsay Crooks—His Character.—His Risks Among the Indians.— + His Warning Concerning Sioux and Blackfeet.—Embarkation of + Recruits.—Parting Scenes Between Brothers, Cousins, Wives, + Sweethearts, and Pot Companions. +</pre> + <p> + WE have followed up the fortunes of the maritime part of this enterprise + to the shores of the Pacific, and have conducted the affairs of the embryo + establishment to the opening of the new year; let us now turn back to the + adventurous band to whom was intrusted the land expedition, and who were + to make their way to the mouth of the Columbia, up vast rivers, across + trackless plains, and over the rugged barriers of the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + The conduct of this expedition, as has been already mentioned, was + assigned to Mr. Wilson Price Hunt, of Trenton, New Jersey, one of the + partners of the company, who was ultimately to be at the head of the + establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. He is represented as a man + scrupulously upright and faithful his dealings, amicable in his + disposition, and of most accommodating manners; and his whole conduct will + be found in unison with such a character. He was not practically + experienced in the Indian trade; that is to say, he had never made any + expeditions of traffic into the heart of the wilderness, but he had been + engaged in commerce at St. Louis, then a frontier settlement on the + Mississippi, where the chief branch of his business had consisted in + furnishing Indian traders with goods and equipments. In this way, he had + acquired much knowledge of the trade at second hand, and of the various + tribes, and the interior country over which it extended. + </p> + <p> + Another of the partners, Mr. Donald M’Kenzie, was associated with Mr. Hunt + in the expedition, and excelled on those points in which the other was + deficient; for he had been ten years in the interior, in the service of + the Northwest Company, and valued himself on his knowledge of “woodcraft,” + and the strategy of Indian trade and Indian warfare. He had a frame + seasoned to toils and hardships; a spirit not to be intimidated, and was + reputed to be a “remarkable shot;” which of itself was sufficient to give + him renown upon the frontier. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt and his coadjutor repaired, about the latter part of July, 1810, + to Montreal, the ancient emporium of the fur trade where everything + requisite for the expedition could be procured. One of the first objects + was to recruit a complement of Canadian voyageurs from the disbanded herd + usually to be found loitering about the place. A degree of jockeyship, + however, is required for this service, for a Canadian voyageur is as full + of latent tricks and vice as a horse; and when he makes the greatest + external promise, is prone to prove the greatest “take in.” Besides, the + Northwest Company, who maintained a long established control at Montreal, + and knew the qualities of every voyageur, secretly interdicted the prime + hands from engaging in this new service; so that, although liberal terms + were offered, few presented themselves but such as were not worth having. + </p> + <p> + From these Mr. Hunt engaged a number sufficient, as he supposed, for + present purposes; and, having laid in a supply of ammunition, provisions, + and Indian goods, embarked all on board one of those great canoes at that + time universally used by the fur traders for navigating the intricate and + often-obstructed rivers. The canoe was between thirty and forty feet long, + and several feet in width; constructed of birch bark, sewed with fibres of + the roots of the spruce tree, and daubed with resin of the pine, instead + of tar. The cargo was made up in packages, weighing from ninety to one + hundred pounds each, for the facility of loading and unloading, and of + transportation at portages. The canoe itself, though capable of sustaining + a freight of upwards of four tons, could readily be carried on men’s + shoulders. Canoes of this size are generally managed by eight or ten men, + two of whom are picked veterans, who receive double wages, and are + stationed, one at the bow and the other at the stern, to keep a look-out + and to steer. They are termed the foreman and the steersman. The rest, who + ply the paddles, are called middle men. When there is a favorable breeze, + the canoe is occasionally navigated with a sail. + </p> + <p> + The expedition took its regular departure, as usual, from St. Anne’s, near + the extremity of the island of Montreal, the great starting-place of the + traders to the interior. Here stood the ancient chapel of St. Anne, the + patroness of the Canadian voyageurs; where they made confession, and + offered up their vows, previous to departing on any hazardous expedition. + The shrine of the saint was decorated with relics and votive offerings + hung up by these superstitious beings, either to propitiate her favor, or + in gratitude for some signal deliverance in the wilderness. It was the + custom, too, of these devout vagabonds, after leaving the chapel, to have + a grand carouse, in honor of the saint and for the prosperity of the + voyage. In this part of their devotions, the crew of Mr. Hunt proved + themselves by no means deficient. Indeed, he soon discovered that his + recruits, enlisted at Montreal, were fit to vie with the ragged regiment + of Falstaff. Some were able-bodied, but inexpert; others were expert, but + lazy; while a third class were expert and willing, but totally worn out, + being broken-down veterans, incapable of toil. + </p> + <p> + With this inefficient crew he made his way up the Ottawa River, and by the + ancient route of the fur traders, along a succession of small lakes and + rivers, to Michilimackinac. Their progress was slow and tedious. Mr. Hunt + was not accustomed to the management of “voyageurs,” and he had a crew + admirably disposed to play the old soldier, and balk their work; and ever + ready to come to a halt, land, make a fire, put on the great pot, and + smoke, and gossip, and sing by the hour. + </p> + <p> + It was not until the 22d of July that they arrived at Mackinaw, situated + on the island of the same name, at the confluence of—lakes Huron and + Michigan. This famous old French trading post continued to be a rallying + point for a multifarious and motley population. The inhabitants were + amphibious in their habits, most of them being, or having been voyageurs + or canoe men. It was the great place of arrival and departure of the + southwest fur trade. Here the Mackinaw Company had established its + principal post, from whence it communicated with the interior and with + Montreal. Hence its various traders and trappers set out for their + respective destinations about Lake Superior and its tributary waters, or + for the Mississippi, the Arkansas, the Missouri, and the other regions of + the west. Here, after the absence of a year, or more, they returned with + their peltries, and settled their accounts; the furs rendered in by them + being transmitted in canoes from hence to Montreal. Mackinaw was, + therefore, for a great part of the year, very scantily peopled; but at + certain seasons the traders arrived from all points, with their crews of + voyageurs, and the place swarmed like a hive. + </p> + <p> + Mackinaw, at that time, was a mere village, stretching along a small bay, + with a fine broad beach in front of its principal row of houses, and + dominated by the old fort, which crowned an impending height. The beach + was a kind of public promenade where were displayed all the vagaries of a + seaport on the arrival of a fleet from a long cruise. Here voyageurs + frolicked away their wages, fiddling and dancing in the booths and cabins, + buying all kinds of knick-knacks, dressing themselves out finely, and + parading up and down, like arrant braggarts and coxcombs. Sometimes they + met with rival coxcombs in the young Indians from the opposite shore, who + would appear on the beach painted and decorated in fantastic style, and + would saunter up and down, to be gazed at and admired, perfectly satisfied + that they eclipsed their pale-faced competitors. + </p> + <p> + Now and then a chance party of “Northwesters” appeared at Mackinaw from + the rendezvous at Fort William. These held themselves up as the chivalry + of the fur trade. They were men of iron; proof against cold weather, hard + fare, and perils of all kinds. Some would wear the Northwest button, and a + formidable dirk, and assume something of a military air. They generally + wore feathers in their hats, and affected the “brave.” “Je suis un homme + du nord!”—“I am a man of the north,”—one of these swelling fellows would + exclaim, sticking his arms akimbo and ruffling by the Southwesters, whom + he regarded with great contempt, as men softened by mild climates and the + luxurious fare of bread and bacon, and whom he stigmatized with the + inglorious name of pork-eaters. The superiority assumed by these + vainglorious swaggerers was, in general, tacitly admitted. Indeed, some of + them had acquired great notoriety for deeds of hardihood and courage; for + the fur trade had Its heroes, whose names resounded throughout the + wilderness. + </p> + <p> + Such was Mackinaw at the time of which we are treating. It now, doubtless, + presents a totally different aspect. The fur companies no longer assemble + there; the navigation of the lake is carried on by steamboats and various + shipping, and the race of traders, and trappers, and voyageurs, and Indian + dandies, have vapored out their brief hour and disappeared. Such changes + does the lapse of a handful of years make in this ever-changing country. + </p> + <p> + At this place Mr. Hunt remained for some time, to complete his assortment + of Indian goods, and to increase his number of voyageurs, as well as to + engage some of a more efficient character than those enlisted at Montreal. + </p> + <p> + And now commenced another game of Jockeyship. There were able and + efficient men in abundance at Mackinaw, but for several days not one + presented himself. If offers were made to any, they were listened to with + a shake of the head. Should any one seem inclined to enlist, there were + officious idlers and busybodies, of that class who are ever ready to + dissuade others from any enterprise in which they themselves have no + concern. These would pull him by the sleeve, take him on one side, and + murmur in his ear, or would suggest difficulties outright. + </p> + <p> + It was objected that the expedition would have to navigate unknown rivers, + and pass through howling wildernesses infested by savage tribes, who had + already cut off the unfortunate voyageurs that had ventured among them; + that it was to climb the Rocky Mountains and descend into desolate and + famished regions, where the traveller was often obliged to subsist on + grasshoppers and crickets, or to kill his own horse for food. + </p> + <p> + At length one man was hardy enough to engage, and he was used like a + “stool-pigeon,” to decoy others; but several days elapsed before any more + could be prevailed upon to join him. A few then came to terms. It was + desirable to engage them for five years, but some refused to engage for + more than three. Then they must have part of their pay in advance, which + was readily granted. When they had pocketed the amount, and squandered it + in regales or in outfits, they began to talk of pecuniary obligations at + Mackinaw, which must be discharged before they would be free to depart; or + engagements with other persons, which were only to be canceled by a + “reasonable consideration.” It was in vain to argue or remonstrate. The + money advanced had already been sacked and spent, and must be lost and the + recruits left behind, unless they could be freed from their debts and + engagements. Accordingly, a fine was paid for one; a judgment for another; + a tavern bill for a third, and almost all had to be bought off from some + prior engagement, either real or pretended. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt groaned in spirit at the incessant and unreasonable demands of + these worthies upon his purse; yet with all this outlay of funds, the + number recruited was but scanty, and many of the most desirable still held + themselves aloof, and were not to be caught by a golden bait. With these + he tried another temptation. Among the recruits who had enlisted he + distributed feathers and ostrich plumes. These they put in their hats, and + thus figured about Mackinaw, assuming airs of vast importance, as + “voyageurs” in a new company, that was to eclipse the Northwest. The + effect was complete. A French Canadian is too vain and mercurial a being + to withstand the finery and ostentation of the feather. Numbers + immediately pressed into the service. One must have an ostrich plume; + another, a white feather with a red end; a third, a bunch of cock’s tails. + Thus all paraded about, in vainglorious style, more delighted with the + feathers in their hats than with the money in their pockets; and + considering themselves fully equal to the boastful “men of the north.” + </p> + <p> + While thus recruiting the number of rank and file, Mr. Hunt was joined by + a person whom he had invited, by letter, to engage as a partner in the + expedition. This was Mr. Ramsay Crooks, a young man, a native of Scotland, + who had served under the Northwest Company, and been engaged in trading + expeditions upon his individual account, among the tribes of the Missouri. + Mr. Hunt knew him personally, and had conceived a high and merited opinion + of his judgment, enterprise, and integrity; he was rejoiced, therefore, + when the latter consented to accompany him. Mr. Crooks, however, drew from + experience a picture of the dangers to which they would be subjected, and + urged the importance of going with a considerable force. In ascending the + upper Missouri they would have to pass through the country of the Sioux + Indians, who had manifested repeated hostility to the white traders, and + rendered their expeditions extremely perilous; firing upon them from the + river banks as they passed beneath in their boats, and attacking them in + their encampments. Mr. Crooks himself, when voyaging in company with + another trader of the name of M’Lellan, had been interrupted by these + marauders, and had considered himself fortunate in escaping down the river + without loss of life or property, but with a total abandonment of his + trading voyage. + </p> + <p> + Should they be fortunate enough to pass through the country of the Sioux + without molestation, they would have another tribe still more savage and + warlike beyond, and deadly foes of white men. + </p> + <p> + These were the Blackfeet Indians, who ranged over a wide extent of country + which they would have to traverse. Under all these circumstances, it was + thought advisable to augment the party considerably. It already exceeded + the number of thirty, to which it had originally been limited; but it was + determined, on arriving at St. Louis, to increase it to the number of + sixty. + </p> + <p> + These matters being arranged, they prepared to embark; but the embarkation + of a crew of Canadian voyageurs, on a distant expedition, is not so easy a + matter as might be imagined; especially of such a set of vainglorious + fellows with money in both pockets, and cocks’ tails in their hats. Like + sailors, the Canadian voyageurs generally preface a long cruise with a + carouse. They have their cronies, their brothers, their cousins, their + wives, their sweethearts, all to be entertained at their expense. They + feast, they fiddle, they drink, they sing, they dance, they frolic and + fight, until they are all as mad as so many drunken Indians. The publicans + are all obedience to their commands, never hesitating to let them run up + scores without limit, knowing that, when their own money is expended, the + purses of their employers must answer for the bill, or the voyage must be + delayed. Neither was it possible, at that time, to remedy the matter at + Mackinaw. In that amphibious community there was always a propensity to + wrest the laws in favor of riotous or mutinous boatmen. It was necessary, + also, to keep the recruits in good humor, seeing the novelty and danger of + the service into which they were entering, and the ease with which they + might at anytime escape it by jumping into a canoe and going downstream. + </p> + <p> + Such were the scenes that beset Mr. Hunt, and gave him a foretaste of the + difficulties of his command. The little cabarets and sutlers’ shops along + the bay resounded with the scraping of fiddles, with snatches of old + French songs, with Indian whoops and yells, while every plumed and + feathered vagabond had his troop of loving cousins and comrades at his + heels. It was with the utmost difficulty they could be extricated from the + clutches of the publicans and the embraces of their pot companions, who + followed them to the water’s edge with many a hug, a kiss on each cheek, + and a maudlin benediction in Canadian French. + </p> + <p> + It was about the 12th of August that they left Mackinaw, and pursued the + usual route by Green Bay, Fox and Wisconsin rivers, to Prairie du Chien, + and thence down the Mississippi to St. Louis, where they landed on the 3d + of September. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + St. Louis.—Its Situation.—Motley Population.—French + Creole Traders and Their Dependants.—Missouri Fur Company— + Mr. Manuel Lisa.—Mississippi Boatmen.—Vagrant Indians. + —Kentucky Hunters—Old French Mansion—Fiddling—Billiards + —Mr. Joseph Miller—His Character—Recruits—Voyage Up the + Missouri.—Difficulties of the River.—Merits of Canadian + Voyageurs.-Arrival at the Nodowa.—Mr. Robert M’Lellan joins + the Party—John Day, a Virginia Hunter. Description of Him. + —Mr. Hunt Returns to St. Louis. +</pre> + <p> + ST. LOUIS, which is situated on the right bank of the Mississippi River, a + few miles below the mouth of the Missouri, was, at that time, a frontier + settlement, and the last fitting-out place for the Indian trade of the + Southwest. It possessed a motley population, composed of the creole + descendants of the original French colonists; the keen traders from the + Atlantic States; the backwoodsmen of Kentucky and Tennessee; the Indians + and half-breeds of the prairies; together with a singular aquatic race + that had grown up from the navigation of the rivers—the “boatmen of + the Mississippi”—who possessed habits, manners, and almost a + language, peculiarly their own, and strongly technical. They, at that + time, were extremely numerous, and conducted the chief navigation and + commerce of the Ohio and the Mississippi, as the voyageurs did of the + Canadian waters; but, like them, their consequence and characteristics are + rapidly vanishing before the all-pervading intrusion of steamboats. + </p> + <p> + The old French houses engaged in the Indian trade had gathered round them + a train of dependents, mongrel Indians, and mongrel Frenchmen, who had + intermarried with Indians. These they employed in their various + expeditions by land and water. Various individuals of other countries had, + of late years, pushed the trade further into the interior, to the upper + waters of the Missouri, and had swelled the number of these hangers-on. + Several of these traders had, two or three years previously, formed + themselves into a company, composed of twelve partners, with a capital of + about forty thousand dollars, called the Missouri Fur Company; the object + of which was, to establish posts along the upper part of that river, and + monopolize the trade. The leading partner of this company was Mr. Manuel + Lisa, a Spaniard by birth, and a man of bold and enterprising character, + who had ascended the Missouri almost to its source, and made himself well + acquainted and popular with several of its tribes. By his exertions, + trading posts had been established, in 1808, in the Sioux country, and + among the Aricara and Mandan tribes; and a principal one, under Mr. Henry, + one of the partners, at the forks of the Missouri. This company had in its + employ about two hundred and fifty men, partly American and partly creole + voyageurs. + </p> + <p> + All these circumstances combined to produce a population at St. Louis even + still more motley than that at Mackinaw. Here were to be seen, about the + river banks, the hectoring, extravagant bragging boatmen of the + Mississippi, with the gay, grimacing, singing, good-humored Canadian + voyageurs. Vagrant Indians, of various tribes, loitered about the streets. + Now and then a stark Kentucky hunter, in leathern hunting-dress, with + rifle on shoulder and knife in belt, strode along. Here and there were new + brick houses and shops, just set up by bustling, driving, and eager men of + traffic from the Atlantic States; while, on the other hand, the old French + mansions, with open casements, still retained the easy, indolent air of + the original colonists; and now and then the scraping of a fiddle, a + strain of an ancient French song, or the sound of billiard balls, showed + that the happy Gallic turn for gayety and amusement still lingered about + the place. + </p> + <p> + Such was St. Louis at the time of Mr. Hunt’s arrival there, and the + appearance of a new fur company, with ample funds at its command, produced + a strong sensation among the I traders of the place, and awakened keen + jealousy and opposition on the part of the Missouri Company. Mr. Hunt + proceeded to strengthen himself against all competition. For this purpose, + he secured to the interests of the association another of those + enterprising men, who had been engaged in individual traffic with the + tribes of the Missouri. This was a Mr. Joseph Miller, a gentleman well + educated and well informed, and of a respectable family of Baltimore. He + had been an officer in the army of the United States, but had resigned in + disgust, on being refused a furlough, and had taken to trapping beaver and + trading among the Indians. He was easily induced by Mr. Hunt to join as a + partner, and was considered by him, on account of his education and + acquirements, and his experience in Indian trade, a valuable addition to + the company. + </p> + <p> + Several additional men were likewise enlisted at St. Louis, some as + boatmen, and others as hunters. These last were engaged, not merely to + kill game for provisions, but also, and indeed chiefly, to trap beaver and + other animals of rich furs, valuable in the trade. They enlisted on + different terms. Some were to have a fixed salary of three hundred + dollars; others were to be fitted out and maintained at the expense of the + company, and were to hunt and trap on shares. + </p> + <p> + As Mr. Hunt met with much opposition on the part of rival traders, + especially the Missouri Fur Company, it took him some weeks to complete + his preparations. The delays which he had previously experienced at + Montreal, Mackinaw, and on the way, added to those at St. Louis, had + thrown him much behind his original calculations, so that it would be + impossible to effect his voyage up the Missouri in the present year. This + river, flowing from high and cold latitudes, and through wide and open + plains, exposed to chilling blasts, freezes early. The winter may be dated + from the first of November; there was every prospect, therefore, that it + would be closed with ice long before Mr. Hunt could reach its upper + waters. To avoid, however, the expense of wintering at St. Louis, he + determined to push up the river as far as possible, to some point above + the settlements, where game was plenty, and where his whole party could be + subsisted by hunting, until the breaking up of the ice in the spring + should permit them to resume their voyage. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly on the twenty-first of October he took his departure from St. + Louis. His party was distributed in three boats. One was the barge which + he had brought from Mackinaw; another was of a larger size, such as was + formerly used in navigating the Mohawk River, and known by the generic + name of the Schenectady barge; the other was a large keel boat, at that + time the grand conveyance on the Mississippi. + </p> + <p> + In this way they set out from St. Louis, in buoyant spirits, and soon + arrived at the mouth of the Missouri. This vast river, three thousand + miles in length, and which, with its tributary streams, drains such an + immense extent of country, was as yet but casually and imperfectly + navigated by the adventurous bark of the fur trader. A steamboat had never + yet stemmed its turbulent current. Sails were but of casual assistance, + for it required a strong wind to conquer the force of the stream. The main + dependence was on bodily strength and manual dexterity. The boats, in + general, had to be propelled by oars and setting poles, or drawn by the + hand and by grappling hooks from one root or overhanging tree to another; + or towed by the long cordelle, or towing line, where the shores were + sufficiently clear of woods and thickets to permit the men to pass along + the banks. + </p> + <p> + During this slow and tedious progress the boat would be exposed to + frequent danger from floating trees and great masses of drift-wood, or to + be impaled upon snags and sawyers; that is to say, sunken trees, + presenting a jagged or pointed end above the surface of the water. As the + channel of the river frequently shifted from side to side according to the + bends and sand-banks, the boat had, in the same way, to advance in a + zigzag course. Often a part of the crew would have to leap into the water + at the shallows, and wade along with the towing line, while their comrades + on board toilfully assisted with oar and setting pole. Sometimes the boat + would seem to be retained motionless, as if spell-bound, opposite some + point round which the current set with violence, and where the utmost + labor scarce effected any visible progress. + </p> + <p> + On these occasions it was that the merits of the Canadian voyageurs came + into full action. Patient of toil, not to be disheartened by impediments + and disappointments, fertile in expedients, and versed in every mode of + humoring and conquering the wayward current, they would ply every + exertion, sometimes in the boat, sometimes on shore, sometimes in the + water, however cold; always alert, always in good humor; and, should they + at any time flag or grow weary, one of their popular songs, chanted by a + veteran oarsman, and responded to in chorus, acted as a never-failing + restorative. + </p> + <p> + By such assiduous and persevering labor they made their way about four + hundred and fifty miles up the Missouri, by the 16th of November, to the + mouth of the Nodowa. As this was a good hunting country, and as the season + was rapidly advancing, they determined to establish their winter quarters + at this place; and, in fact, two days after they had come to a halt, the + river closed just above their encampment. + </p> + <p> + The party had not been long at this place when they were joined by Mr. + Robert M’Lellan, another trader of the Missouri; the same who had been + associated with Mr. Crooks in the unfortunate expedition in which they had + been intercepted by the Sioux Indians, and obliged to make a rapid retreat + down the river. + </p> + <p> + M’Lellan was a remarkable man. He had been a partisan under General Wayne, + in his Indian wars, where he had distinguished himself by his fiery spirit + and reckless daring, and marvelous stories were told of his exploits. His + appearance answered to his character. His frame was meagre, but muscular; + showing strength, activity, and iron firmness. His eyes were dark, + deep-set, and piercing. He was restless, fearless, but of impetuous and + sometimes ungovernable temper. He had been invited by Mr. Hunt to enroll + himself as a partner, and gladly consented; being pleased with the + thoughts of passing with a powerful force through the country of the + Sioux, and perhaps having an opportunity of revenging himself upon that + lawless tribe for their past offenses. + </p> + <p> + Another recruit that joined the camp at Nodowa deserves equal mention. + This was John Day, a hunter from the backwoods of Virginia, who had been + several years on the Missouri in the service of Mr. Crooks, and of other + traders. He was about forty years of age, six feet two inches high, + straight as an Indian; with an elastic step as if he trod on springs, and + a handsome, open, manly countenance. It was his boast that, in his younger + days, nothing could hurt or daunt him; but he had “lived too fast,” and + injured his constitution by his excesses. Still he was strong of hand, + bold of heart, a prime woodman, and an almost unerring shot. He had the + frank spirit of a Virginian, and the rough heroism of a pioneer of the + west. + </p> + <p> + The party were now brought to a halt for several months. They were in a + country abounding with deer and wild turkeys, so that there was no stint + of provisions, and every one appeared cheerful and contented. Mr. Hunt + determined to avail himself of this interval to return to St. Louis and + obtain a reinforcement. + </p> + <p> + He wished to procure an interpreter, acquainted with the language of the + Sioux, as, from all accounts, he apprehended difficulties in passing + through the country of that nation. He felt the necessity, also, of having + a greater number of hunters, not merely to keep up a supply of provisions + throughout their long and arduous expedition, but also as a protection and + defense, in case of Indian hostilities. For such service the Canadian + voyageurs were little to be depended upon, fighting not being a part of + their profession. The proper kind of men were American hunters, + experienced in savage life and savage warfare, and possessed of the true + game spirit of the west. + </p> + <p> + Leaving, therefore, the encampment in charge of the other partners, Mr. + Hunt set off on foot on the first of January (1810), for St. Louis. He was + accompanied by eight men as far as Fort Osage, about one hundred and fifty + miles below Nodowa. Here he procured a couple of horses, and proceeded on + the remainder of his journey with two men, sending the other six back to + the encampment. He arrived at St. Louis on the 20th of January. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Opposition of the Missouri Fur Company.-Blackfeet Indians.— + Pierre Dorion, a Half-Breed Interpreter.—Old Dorion and His + Hybrid Progeny—Family Quarrels.—Cross Purposes Between + Dorion and Lisa.—Renegadoes From Nodowa.—Perplexities of + a Commander.—Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall Join the + Expedition.-Legal Embarrassments of Pierre Dorion.— + Departure From St. Louis.—Conjugal Discipline of a Half- + Breed.—Annual Swelling of the Rivers.-Daniel Boone, the + Patriarch of Kentucky.-John Colter.-His Adventures Among the + Indians.-Rumors of Danger Ahead.-Fort Osage.-An Indian War- + Feast.-Troubles in the Dorion Family.—Buffaloes and Turkey- + Buzzards. +</pre> + <p> + ON this his second visit to St. Louis, Mr. Hunt was again impeded in his + plans by the opposition of the Missouri Fur Company. The affairs of that + company were, at this time, in a very dubious state. During the preceding + year, their principal establishment at the forks of the Missouri had been + so much harassed by the Blackfeet Indians, that its commander, Mr. Henry, + one of the partners, had been compelled to abandon the post and cross the + Rocky Mountains, with the intention of fixing himself upon one of the + upper branches of the Columbia. What had become of him and his party was + unknown. The most intense anxiety was felt concerning them, and + apprehensions that they might have been cut off by the savages. At the + time of Mr. Hunt’s arrival at St. Louis, the Missouri Company were fitting + out an expedition to go in quest of Mr. Henry. It was to be conducted by + Mr. Manuel Lisa, the partner already mentioned. + </p> + <p> + There being thus two expeditions on foot at the same moment, an unusual + demand was occasioned for hunters and voyageurs, who accordingly profited + by the circumstance, and stipulated for high terms. Mr. Hunt found a keen + and subtle competitor in Lisa, and was obliged to secure his recruits by + liberal advances of pay, and by other pecuniary indulgences. + </p> + <p> + The greatest difficulty was to procure the Sioux interpreter. There was + but one man to be met with at St. Louis who was fitted for the purpose, + but to secure him would require much management. The individual in + question was a half-breed, named Pierre Dorion; and, as he figures + hereafter in this narrative, and is, withal, a striking specimen of the + hybrid race on the frontier, we shall give a few particulars concerning + him. Pierre was the son of Dorion, the French interpreter, who accompanied + Messrs. Lewis and Clark in their famous exploring expedition across the + Rocky Mountains. Old Dorion was one of those French creoles, descendants + of the ancient Canadian stock, who abound on the western frontier, and + amalgamate or cohabit with the savages. He had sojourned among various + tribes, and perhaps left progeny among them all; but his regular, or + habitual wife, was a Sioux squaw. By her he had a hopeful brood of + half-breed sons, of whom Pierre was one. The domestic affairs of old + Dorion were conducted on the true Indian plan. Father and sons would + occasionally get drunk together, and then the cabin was a scene of ruffian + brawl and fighting, in the course of which the old Frenchman was apt to + get soundly belabored by his mongrel offspring. In a furious scuffle of + the kind, one of the sons got the old man upon the ground, and was upon + the point of scalping him. “Hold! my son,” cried the old fellow, in + imploring accents, “you are too brave, too honorable to scalp your + father!” This last appeal touched the French side of the half-breed’s + heart, so he suffered the old man to wear his scalp unharmed. + </p> + <p> + Of this hopeful stock was Pierre Dorion, the man whom it was now the + desire of Mr. Hunt to engage as an interpreter. He had been employed in + that capacity by the Missouri Fur Company during the preceding year, and + conducted their traders in safety through the different tribes of the + Sioux. He had proved himself faithful and serviceable while sober; but the + love of liquor, in which he had been nurtured and brought up, would + occasionally break out, and with it the savage side of his character. + </p> + <p> + It was his love of liquor which had embroiled him with the Missouri + Company. While in their service at Fort Mandan, on the frontier, he had + been seized with a whiskey mania; and, as the beverage was only to be + procured at the company’s store, it had been charged in his account at the + rate of ten dollars a quart. This item had ever remained unsettled, and a + matter of furious dispute, the mere mention of which was sufficient to put + him in a passion. + </p> + <p> + The moment it was discovered by Mr. Lisa that Pierre Dorion was in treaty + with the new and rival association, he endeavored, by threats as well as + promises, to prevent his engaging in their service. His promises might, + perhaps, have prevailed; but his threats, which related to the whiskey + debt, only served to drive Pierre into the opposite ranks. Still he took + advantage of this competition for his services to stand out with Mr. Hunt + on the most advantageous terms, and, after a negotiation of nearly two + weeks, capitulated to serve in the expedition, as hunter and interpreter, + at the rate of three hundred dollars a year, two hundred of which were to + be paid in advance. + </p> + <p> + When Mr. Hunt had got everything ready for leaving St. Louis, new + difficulties arose. Five of the American hunters from the encampment at + Nodowa, suddenly made their appearance. They alleged that they had been + ill treated by the partners at the encampment, and had come off + clandestinely, in consequence of a dispute. It was useless at the present + moment, and under present circumstances, to attempt any compulsory + measures with these deserters. Two of them Mr. Hunt prevailed upon, by + mild means, to return with him. The rest refused; nay, what was worse, + they spread such reports of the hardships and dangers to be apprehended in + the course of the expedition, that they struck a panic into those hunters + who had recently engaged at St. Louis, and, when the hour of departure + arrived, all but one refused to embark. It was in vain to plead or + remonstrate; they shouldered their rifles and turned their backs upon the + expedition, and Mr. Hunt was fain to put off from shore with the single + hunter and a number of voyageurs whom he had engaged. Even Pierre Dorion, + at the last moment, refused to enter the boat until Mr. Hunt consented to + take his squaw and two children on board also. But the tissue of + perplexities, on account of this worthy individual, did not end here. + </p> + <p> + Among the various persons who were about to proceed up the Missouri with + Mr. Hunt, were two scientific gentlemen; one Mr. John Bradbury, a man of + mature age, but great enterprise and personal activity, who had been sent + out by Linnaean Society of Liverpool to make a collection of American + plants; the other, a Mr. Nuttall, likewise an Englishman, younger in + years, who has since made himself known as the author of Travels in + Arkansas, and a work on the Genera of American Plants. Mr. Hunt had + offered them the protection and facilities of his party, in their + scientific research up the Missouri River. As they were not ready to + depart at the moment of embarkation, they put their trunks on board of the + boat, but remained at St. Louis until the next day, for the arrival of the + post, intending to join the expedition at St. Charles, a short distance + above the mouth of the Missouri. + </p> + <p> + The same evening, however, they learned that a writ had been issued + against Pierre Dorion for his whiskey debt, by Mr. Lisa, as agent of the + Missouri Company, and that it was the intention to entrap the mongrel + linguist on his arrival at St. Charles. + </p> + <p> + Upon hearing this, Mr. Bradbury and Mr. Nuttall set off a little after + midnight, by land, got ahead of the boat as it was ascending the Missouri, + before its arrival at St. Charles, and gave Pierre Dorion warning of the + legal toil prepared to ensnare him. + </p> + <p> + The knowing Pierre immediately landed and took to the woods, followed by + his squaw laden with their papooses, and a large bundle containing their + most precious effects, promising to rejoin the party some distance above + St. Charles. There seemed little dependence to be placed upon the promises + of a loose adventurer of the kind, who was at the very time playing an + evasive game with his former employers; who had already received + two-thirds of his year’s pay, and his rifle on his shoulder, his family + and worldly fortunes at his heels, and the wild woods before him. There + was no alternative, however, and it was hoped his pique against his old + employers would render him faithful to his new ones. + </p> + <p> + The party reached St. Charles in the afternoon, but the harpies of the law + looked in vain for their expected prey. The boats resumed their course on + the following morning, and had not proceeded far when Pierre Dorion made + his appearance on the shore. He was gladly taken on board, but he came + without his squaw. They had quarreled in the night; Pierre had + administered the Indian discipline of the cudgel, whereupon she had taken + to the woods, with their children and all their worldly goods. Pierre + evidently was deeply grieved and disconcerted at the loss of his wife and + his knapsack, whereupon Mr. Hunt despatched one of the Canadian voyageurs + in search of the fugitive; and the whole party, after proceeding a few + miles further, encamped on an island to wait his return. The Canadian + rejoined the party, but without the squaw; and Pierre Dorion passed a + solitary and anxious night, bitterly regretting his indiscretion in having + exercised his conjugal authority so near home. Before daybreak, however, a + well-known voice reached his ears from the opposite shore. It was his + repentant spouse, who had been wandering the woods all night in quest of + the party, and had at length descried it by its fires. A boat was + despatched for her, the interesting family was once more united, and Mr. + Hunt now flattered himself that his perplexities with Pierre Dorion were + at an end. + </p> + <p> + Bad weather, very heavy rains, and an unusually early rise in the + Missouri, rendered the ascent of the river toilsome, slow, and dangerous. + The rise of the Missouri does not generally take place until the month of + May or June: the present swelling of the river must have been caused by a + freshet in some of its more southern branches. It could not have been the + great annual flood, as the higher branches must still have been ice-bound. + </p> + <p> + And here we cannot but pause, to notice the admirable arrangement of + nature, by which the annual swellings of the various great rivers which + empty themselves into the Mississippi, have been made to precede each + other at considerable intervals. Thus, the flood of the Red River precedes + that of the Arkansas by a month. The Arkansas, also, rising in a much more + southern latitude than the Missouri, takes the lead of it in its annual + excess, and its superabundant waters are disgorged and disposed of long + before the breaking up of the icy barriers of the north; otherwise, did + all these mighty streams rise simultaneously, and discharge their vernal + floods into the Mississippi, an inundation would be the consequence, that + would submerge and devastate all the lower country. + </p> + <p> + On the afternoon of the third day, January, 17th, the boats touched at + Charette, one of the old villages founded by the original French + colonists. Here they met with Daniel Boone, the renowned patriarch of + Kentucky, who had kept in the advance of civilization, and on the borders + of the wilderness, still leading a hunter’s life, though now in his + eighty-fifth year. He had but recently returned from a hunting and + trapping expedition, and had brought nearly sixty beaver skins as trophies + of his skill. The old man was still erect in form, strong in limb, and + unflinching in spirit, and as he stood on the river bank, watching the + departure of an expedition destined to traverse the wilderness to the very + shores of the Pacific, very probably felt a throb of his old pioneer + spirit, impelling him to shoulder his rifle and join the adventurous band. + Boone flourished several years after this meeting, in a vigorous old age, + the Nestor of hunters and backwoodsmen; and died, full of sylvan honor and + renown, in 1818, in his ninety-second year. + </p> + <p> + The next morning early, as the party were yet encamped at the mouth of a + small stream, they were visited by another of these heroes of the + wilderness, one John Colter, who had accompanied Lewis and Clarke in their + memorable expedition. He had recently made one of those vast internal + voyages so characteristic of this fearless class of men, and of the + immense regions over which they hold their lonely wanderings; having come + from the head waters of the Missouri to St. Louis in a small canoe. This + distance of three thousand miles he had accomplished in thirty days. + Colter kept with the party all the morning. He had many particulars to + give them concerning the Blackfeet Indians, a restless and predatory + tribe, who had conceived an implacable hostility to the white men, in + consequence of one of their warriors having been killed by Captain Lewis, + while attempting to steal horses. Through the country infested by these + savages the expedition would have to proceed, and Colter was urgent in + reiterating the precautions that ought to be observed respecting them. He + had himself experienced their vindictive cruelty, and his story deserves + particular citation, as showing the hairbreadth adventures to which these + solitary rovers of the wilderness are exposed. + </p> + <p> + Colter, with the hardihood of a regular trapper, had cast himself loose + from the party of Lewis and Clarke in the very heart of the wilderness, + and had remained to trap beaver alone on the head waters of the Missouri. + Here he fell in with another lonely trapper, like himself, named Potts, + and they agreed to keep together. They were in the very region of the + terrible Blackfeet, at that time thirsting to revenge the death of their + companion, and knew that they had to expect no mercy at their hands. They + were obliged to keep concealed all day in the woody margins of the rivers, + setting their traps after nightfall and taking them up before daybreak. It + was running a fearful risk for the sake of a few beaver skins; but such is + the life of the trapper. + </p> + <p> + They were on a branch of the Missouri called Jefferson Fork, and had set + their traps at night, about six miles up a small river that emptied into + the fork. Early in the morning they ascended the river in a canoe, to + examine the traps. The banks on each side were high and perpendicular, and + cast a shade over the stream. As they were softly paddling along, they + heard the trampling of many feet upon the banks. Colter immediately gave + the alarm of “Indians!” and was for instant retreat. Potts scoffed at him + for being frightened by the trampling of a herd of buffaloes. Colter + checked his uneasiness and paddled forward. They had not gone much further + when frightful whoops and yells burst forth from each side of the river, + and several hundred Indians appeared on either bank. Signs were made to + the unfortunate trappers to come on shore. They were obliged to comply. + Before they could get out of their canoe, a savage seized the rifle + belonging to Potts. Colter sprang on shore, wrestled the weapon from the + hands of the Indian, and restored it to his companion, who was still in + the canoe, and immediately pushed into the stream. There was the sharp + twang of a bow, and Potts cried out that he was wounded. Colter urged him + to come on shore and submit, as his only chance for life; but the other + knew there was no prospect of mercy, and determined to die game. Leveling + his rifle, he shot one of the savages dead on the spot. The next moment he + fell himself, pierced with innumerable arrows. + </p> + <p> + The vengeance of the savages now turned upon Colter. He was stripped + naked, and, having some knowledge of the Blackfoot language, overheard a + consultation as to the mode of despatching him, so as to derive the + greatest amusement from his death. Some were for setting him up as a mark, + and having a trial of skill at his expense. The chief, however, was for + nobler sport. He seized Colter by the shoulder, and demanded if he could + run fast. The unfortunate trapper was too well acquainted with Indian + customs not to comprehend the drift of the question. He knew he was to run + for his life, to furnish a kind of human hunt to his persecutors. Though + in reality he was noted among his brother hunters for swiftness of foot, + he assured the chief that he was a very bad runner. His stratagem gained + him some vantage ground. He was led by the chief into the prairie, about + four hundred yards from the main body of savages, and then turned loose to + save himself if he could. A tremendous yell let him know that the whole + pack of bloodhounds were off in full cry. Colter flew rather than ran; he + was astonished at his own speed; but he had six miles of prairie to + traverse before he should reach the Jefferson Fork of the Missouri; how + could he hope to hold out such a distance with the fearful odds of several + hundred to one against him! The plain, too, abounded with the prickly + pear, which wounded his naked feet. Still he fled on, dreading each moment + to hear the twang of a bow, and to feel an arrow quivering at his heart. + He did not even dare to look round, lest he should lose an inch of that + distance on which his life depended. He had run nearly half way across the + plain when the sound of pursuit grew somewhat fainter, and he ventured to + turn his head. The main body of his pursuers were a considerable distance + behind; several of the fastest runners were scattered in the advance; + while a swift-footed warrior, armed with a spear, was not more than a + hundred yards behind him. + </p> + <p> + Inspired with new hope, Colter redoubled his exertions, but strained + himself to such a degree, that the blood gushed from his mouth and + nostrils, and streamed down his breast. He arrived within a mile of the + river. The sound of footsteps gathered upon him. A glance behind showed + his pursuer within twenty yards, and preparing to launch his spear. + Stopping short he turned round and spread out his arms. The savage, + confounded by this sudden action, attempted to stop and hurl his spear, + but fell in the very act. His spear stuck in the ground, and the shaft + broke in his hand. Colter plucked up the pointed part, pinned the savage + to the earth, and continued his flight. The Indians, as they arrived at + their slaughtered companion, stopped to howl over him. Colter made the + most of this precious delay, gained the skirt of cotton-wood bordering the + river, dashed through it, and plunged into the stream. He swam to a + neighboring island, against the upper end of which the driftwood had + lodged in such quantities as to form a natural raft; under this he dived, + and swam below water until he succeeded in getting a breathing place + between the floating trunks of trees, whose branches and bushes formed a + covert several feet above the level of the water. He had scarcely drawn + breath after all his toils, when he heard his pursuers on the river bank, + whooping and yelling like so many fiends. They plunged in the river, and + swam to the raft. The heart of Colter almost died within him as he saw + them, through the chinks of his concealment, passing and repassing, and + seeking for him in all directions. They at length gave up the search, and + he began to rejoice in his escape, when the idea presented itself that + they might set the raft on fire. Here was a new source of horrible + apprehension, in which he remained until nightfall. Fortunately the idea + did not suggest itself to the Indians. As soon as it was dark, finding by + the silence around that his pursuers had departed, Colter dived again and + came up beyond the raft. He then swam silently down the river for a + considerable distance, when he landed, and kept on all night, to get as + far as possible from this dangerous neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + By daybreak he had gained sufficient distance to relieve him from the + terrors of his savage foes; but now new sources of inquietude presented + themselves. He was naked and alone, in the midst of an unbounded + wilderness; his only chance was to reach a trading post of the Missouri + Company, situated on a branch of the Yellowstone River. Even should he + elude his pursuers, days must elapse before he could reach this post, + during which he must traverse immense prairies destitute of shade, his + naked body exposed to the burning heat of the sun by day, and the dews and + chills of the night season, and his feet lacerated by the thorns of the + prickly pear. Though he might see game in abundance around him, he had no + means of killing any for his sustenance, and must depend for food upon the + roots of the earth. In defiance of these difficulties he pushed resolutely + forward, guiding himself in his trackless course by those signs and + indications known only to Indians and backwoodsmen; and after braving + dangers and hardships enough to break down any spirit but that of a + western pioneer, arrived safe at the solitary post in question. * + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (* Bradbury, Travels in America, p. 17.) +</pre> + <p> + Such is a sample of the rugged experience which Colter had to relate of + savage life; yet, with all these perils and terrors fresh in his + recollection, he could not see the present band on their way to those + regions of danger and adventure, without feeling a vehement impulse to + join them. A western trapper is like a sailor; past hazards only stimulate + him to further risks. The vast prairie is to the one what the ocean is to + the other, a boundless field of enterprise and exploit. However he may + have suffered in his last cruise, he is always ready to join a new + expedition; and the more adventurous its nature, the more attractive is it + to his vagrant spirit. + </p> + <p> + Nothing seems to have kept Colter from continuing with the party to the + shores of the Pacific but the circumstances of his having recently + married. All the morning he kept with them, balancing in his mind the + charms of his bride against those of the Rocky Mountains; the former, + however, prevailed, and after a march of several miles, he took a + reluctant leave of the travellers, and turned his face homeward. + </p> + <p> + Continuing their progress up the Missouri, the party encamped on the + evening of the 21st of March, in the neighborhood of a little frontier + village of French creoles. Here Pierre Dorion met with some of his old + comrades, with whom he had a long gossip, and returned to the camp with + rumors of bloody feuds between the Osages and the loways, or Ayaways, + Potowatomies, Sioux, and Sawkees. Blood had already been shed, and scalps + been taken. A war party, three hundred strong, were prowling in the + neighborhood; others might be met with higher up the river; it behooved + the travellers, therefore, to be upon their guard against robbery or + surprise, for an Indian war-party on the march is prone to acts of + outrage. + </p> + <p> + In consequence of this report, which was subsequently confirmed by further + intelligence, a guard was kept up at night round the encampment, and they + all slept on their arms. As they were sixteen in number, and well supplied + with weapons and ammunition, they trusted to be able to give any marauding + party a warm reception. Nothing occurred, however, to molest them on their + voyage, and on the 8th of April they came in sight of Fort Osage. On their + approach the flag was hoisted on the fort, and they saluted it by a + discharge of fire-arms. Within a short distance of the fort was an Osage + village, the inhabitants of which, men, women, and children, thronged down + to the water side to witness their landing. One of the first persons they + met on the river bank was Mr. Crooks, who had come down in a boat, with + nine men, from their winter encampment at Nodowa to meet them. + </p> + <p> + They remained at Fort Osage a part of three days, during which they were + hospitably entertained at the garrison by Lieutenant Brownson, who held a + temporary command. They were regaled also with a war-feast at the village; + the Osage warriors having returned from a successful foray against the + loways, in which they had taken seven scalps. They were paraded on poles + about the village, followed by the warriors decked out in all their savage + ornaments, and hideously painted as if for battle. + </p> + <p> + By the Osage warriors, Mr. Hunt and his companions were again warned to be + on their guard in ascending the river, as the Sioux tribe meant to lay in + wait and attack them. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of April they again embarked their party, being now augmented + to twenty-six, by the addition of Mr. Crooks and his boat’s crew. They had + not proceeded far, however, when there was a great outcry from one of the + boats; it was occasioned by a little domestic discipline in the Dorion + family. The squaw of the worthy interpreter, it appeared, had been so + delighted with the scalp-dance, and other festivities of the Osage + village, that she had taken a strong inclination to remain there. This had + been as strongly opposed by her liege lord, who had compelled her to + embark. The good dame had remained sulky ever since, whereupon Pierre, + seeing no other mode of exorcising the evil spirit out of her, and being, + perhaps, a little inspired by whiskey, had resorted to the Indian remedy + of the cudgel, and before his neighbors could interfere, had belabored her + so soundly, that there is no record of her having shown any refractory + symptoms throughout the remainder of the expedition. + </p> + <p> + For a week they continued their voyage, exposed to almost incessant rains. + The bodies of drowned buffaloes floated past them in vast numbers; many + had drifted upon the shore, or against the upper ends of the rafts and + islands. These had attracted great flights of turkey-buzzards; some were + banqueting on the carcasses, others were soaring far aloft in the sky, and + others were perched on the trees, with their backs to the sun, and their + wings stretched out to dry, like so many vessels in harbor, spreading + their sails after a shower. + </p> + <p> + The turkey-buzzard (vultur aura, or golden vulture), when on the wing, is + one of the most specious and imposing of birds. Its flight in the upper + regions of the air is really sublime, extending its immense wings, and + wheeling slowly and majestically to and fro, seemingly without exerting a + muscle or fluttering a feather, but moving by mere volition, and sailing + on the bosom of the air, as a ship upon the ocean. Usurping the empyreal + realm of the eagle, he assumes for a time the port and dignity of that + majestic bird, and often is mistaken for him by ignorant crawlers upon the + earth. It is only when he descends from the clouds to pounce upon carrion + that he betrays his low propensities, and reveals his caitiff character. + Near at hand he is a disgusting bird, ragged in plumage, base in aspect, + and of loathsome odor. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th of April Mr. Hunt arrived with his party at the station near + the Nodowa River, where the main body had been quartered during the + winter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Return of Spring.—Appearance of Snakes.—Great Flights of + Wild Pigeons.—Renewal of the Voyage.—Night Encampments.— + Platte River.—Ceremonials on Passing It.—Signs of Indian + War Parties.—Magnificent Prospect at Papillion Creek.— + Desertion of Two Hunters.—An Irruption Into the Camp of + Indian Desperadoes.—Village of the Omahas.—Anecdotes of the + Tribe.—Feudal Wars of the Indians.—Story of Blackbird, the + Famous Omaha Chief. +</pre> + <p> + THE weather continued rainy and ungenial for some days after Mr. Hunt’s + return to Nodowa; yet spring was rapidly advancing and vegetation was + putting forth with all its early freshness and beauty. The snakes began to + recover from their torpor and crawl forth into day; and the neighborhood + of the wintering house seems to have been much infested with them. Mr. + Bradbury, in the course of his botanical researches, found a surprising + number in a half torpid state, under flat stones upon the banks which + overhung the cantonment, and narrowly escaped being struck by a + rattlesnake, which darted at him from a cleft in the rock, but fortunately + gave him warning by his rattle. + </p> + <p> + The pigeons, too, were filling the woods in vast migratory flocks. It is + almost incredible to describe the prodigious flights of these birds in the + western wildernesses. They appear absolutely in clouds, and move with + astonishing velocity, their wings making a whistling sound as they fly. + The rapid evolutions of these flocks wheeling and shifting suddenly as if + with one mind and one impulse; the flashing changes of color they present, + as their backs their breasts, or the under part of their wings are turned + to the spectator, are singularly pleasing. When they alight, if on the + ground, they cover whole acres at a time; if upon trees, the branches + often break beneath their weight. If suddenly startled while feeding in + the midst of a forest, the noise they make in getting on the wing is like + the roar of a cataract or the sound of distant thunder. + </p> + <p> + A flight of this kind, like an Egyptian flight of locusts, devours + everything that serves for its food as it passes along. So great were the + numbers in the vicinity of the camp that Mr. Bradbury, in the course of a + morning’s excursion, shot nearly three hundred with a fowling-piece. He + gives a curious, though apparently a faithful, account of the kind of + discipline observed in these immense flocks, so that each may have a + chance of picking up food. As the front ranks must meet with the greatest + abundance, and the rear ranks must have scanty pickings, the instant a + rank finds itself the hindmost, it rises in the air, flies over the whole + flock and takes its place in the advance. The next rank follows in its + course, and thus the last is continually becoming first and all by turns + have a front place at the banquet. + </p> + <p> + The rains having at length subsided, Mr. Hunt broke up the encampment and + resumed his course up the Missouri. + </p> + <p> + The party now consisted of nearly sixty persons, of whom five were + partners, one, John Reed, was a clerk; forty were Canadian “voyageurs,” or + “engages,” and there were several hunters. They embarked in four boats, + one of which was of a large size, mounting a swivel, and two howitzers. + All were furnished with masts and sails, to be used when the wind was + sufficiently favorable and strong to overpower the current of the river. + Such was the case for the first four or five days, when they were wafted + steadily up the stream by a strong southeaster. + </p> + <p> + Their encampments at night were often pleasant and picturesque: on some + beautiful bank, beneath spreading trees, which afforded them shelter and + fuel. The tents were pitched, the fires made, and the meals prepared by + the voyageurs, and many a story was told, and joke passed, and song sung + round the evening fire. All, however, were asleep at an early hour. Some + under the tents, others wrapped in blankets before the fire, or beneath + the trees; and some few in the boats and canoes. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th, they breakfasted on one of the islands which lie at the mouth + of the Nebraska or Platte River—the largest tributary of the + Missouri, and about six hundred miles above its confluence with the + Mississippi. This broad but shallow stream flows for an immense distance + through a wide and verdant valley scooped out of boundless prairies. It + draws its main supplies, by several forks or branches, from the Rocky + Mountains. The mouth of this river is established as the dividing point + between the upper and lower Missouri; and the earlier voyagers, in their + toilsome ascent, before the introduction of steamboats, considered + one-half of their labors accomplished when they reached this place. The + passing of the mouth of the Nebraska, therefore, was equivalent among + boatmen to the crossing of the line among sailors, and was celebrated with + like ceremonials of a rough and waggish nature, practiced upon the + uninitiated; among which was the old nautical joke of shaving. The river + deities, however, like those of the sea, were to be propitiated by a + bribe, and the infliction of these rude honors to be parried by a treat to + the adepts. + </p> + <p> + At the mouth of the Nebraska new signs were met with of war parties which + had recently been in the vicinity. There was the frame of a skin canoe, in + which the warriors had traversed the river. At night, also, the lurid + reflection of immense fires hung in the sky, showing the conflagration of + great tracts of the prairies. Such fires not being made by hunters so late + in the season, it was supposed they were caused by some wandering war + parties. These often take the precaution to set the prairies on fire + behind them to conceal their traces from their enemies. This is chiefly + done when the party has been unsuccessful, and is on the retreat and + apprehensive of pursuit. At such time it is not safe even for friends to + fall in with them, as they are apt to be in savage humor, and disposed to + vent their spleen in capricious outrage. These signs, therefore, of a band + of marauders on the prowl, called for some degree of vigilance on the part + of the travellers. + </p> + <p> + After passing the Nebraska, the party halted for part of two days on the + bank of the river, a little above Papillion Creek, to supply themselves + with a stock of oars and poles from the tough wood of the ash, which is + not met with higher up the Missouri. While the voyagers were thus + occupied, the naturalists rambled over the adjacent country to collect + plants. From the summit of a range of bluffs on the opposite side of the + river, about two hundred and fifty feet high, they had one of those vast + and magnificent prospects which sometimes unfold themselves in those + boundless regions. Below them was the Valley of the Missouri, about seven + miles in breadth, clad in the fresh verdure of spring; enameled with + flowers and interspersed with clumps and groves of noble trees, between + which the mighty river poured its turbulent and turbid stream. The + interior of the country presented a singular scene; the immense waste + being broken up by innumerable green hills, not above eight feet in + height, but extremely steep, and actually pointed at their summits. A long + line of bluffs extended for upwards of thirty miles parallel to the + Missouri, with a shallow lake stretching along their base, which had + evidently once formed a bed of the river. The surface of this lake was + covered with aquatic plants, on the broad leaves of which numbers of + water-snakes, drawn forth by the genial warmth of spring, were basking in + the sunshine. + </p> + <p> + On the 2d day of May, at the usual hour of embarking, the camp was thrown + into some confusion by two of the hunters, named Harrington, expressing + their intention to abandon the expedition and return home. One of these + had joined the party in the preceding autumn, having been hunting for two + years on the Missouri; the other had engaged at St. Louis, in the + following March, and had come up from thence with Mr. Hunt. He now + declared that he had enlisted merely for the purpose of following his + brother, and persuading him to return; having been enjoined to do so by + his mother, whose anxiety had been awakened by the idea of his going on + such a wild and distant expedition. + </p> + <p> + The loss of two stark hunters and prime riflemen was a serious affair to + the party, for they were approaching the region where they might expect + hostilities from the Sioux; indeed, throughout the whole of their perilous + journey, the services of such men would be all important, for little + reliance was to be placed upon the valor of the Canadians in case of + attack. Mr. Hunt endeavored by arguments, expostulations, and entreaties, + to shake the determination of the two brothers. He represented to them + that they were between six and seven hundred miles above the mouth of the + Missouri; that they would have four hundred miles to go before they could + reach the habitation of a white man, throughout which they would be + exposed to all kinds of risks; since, he declared, if they persisted in + abandoning him and breaking their faith, he would not furnish them with a + single round of ammunition. All was in vain; they obstinately persisted in + their resolution; whereupon, Mr. Hunt, partly incited by indignation, + partly by the policy of deterring others from desertion, put his threat + into execution, and left them to find their way back to the settlements + without, as he supposed, a single bullet or charge of powder. + </p> + <p> + The boats now continued their slow and toilsome course for several days, + against the current of the river. The late signs of roaming war parties + caused a vigilant watch to be kept up at night when the crews encamped on + shore; nor was this vigilance superfluous; for on the night of the seventh + instant, there was a wild and fearful yell, and eleven Sioux warriors, + stark naked, with tomahawks in their hands, rushed into the camp. They + were instantly surrounded and seized, whereupon their leader called out to + his followers to desist from any violence, and pretended to be perfectly + pacific in his intentions. It proved, however, that they were a part of + the war party, the skeleton of whose canoe had been seen at the mouth of + the river Platte, and the reflection of whose fires had been descried in + the air. They had been disappointed or defeated in the foray, and in their + rage and mortification these eleven warriors had “devoted their clothes to + the medicine.” This is a desperate act of Indian braves when foiled in + war, and in dread of scoffs and sneers. In such case they sometimes threw + off their clothes and ornaments, devote themselves to the Great Spirit, + and attempt some reckless exploit with which to cover their disgrace. Woe + to any defenseless party of white men that may then fall in their way! + </p> + <p> + Such was the explanation given by Pierre Dorion, the half-breed + interpreter, of this wild intrusion into the camp; and the party were so + exasperated when appraised of the sanguinary intentions of the prisoners, + that they were for shooting them on the spot. Mr. Hunt, however, exerted + his usual moderation and humanity, and ordered that they should be + conveyed across the river in one of the boats, threatening them however, + with certain death if again caught in any hostile act. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of May the party arrived at the Omaha (pronounced Omawhaw) + village, about eight hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of the + Missouri, and encamped in its neighborhood. The village was situated under + a hill on the bank of the river, and consisted of about eighty lodges. + These were of a circular and conical form, and about sixteen feet in + diameter; being mere tents of dressed buffalo skins, sewed together and + stretched on long poles, inclined towards each other so as to cross at + about half their height. Thus the naked tops of the poles diverge in such + a manner that, if they were covered with skins like the lower ends, the + tent would be shaped like an hour-glass, and present the appearance of one + cone inverted on the apex of another. + </p> + <p> + The forms of Indian lodges are worthy of attention, each tribe having a + different mode of shaping and arranging them, so that it is easy to tell, + on seeing a lodge or an encampment at a distance, to what tribe the + inhabitants belong. The exterior of the Omaha lodges have often a gay and + fanciful appearance, being painted with undulating bands of red or yellow, + or decorated with rude figures of horses, deer, and buffaloes, and with + human faces, painted like full moons, four and five feet broad. + </p> + <p> + The Omahas were once one of the numerous and powerful tribes of the + prairies, vying in warlike might and prowess with the Sioux, the Pawnees, + the Sauks, the Konsas, and the Iatans. Their wars with the Sioux, however, + had thinned their ranks, and the small-pox in 1802 had swept off two + thirds of their number. At the time of Mr. Hunt’s visit they still boasted + about two hundred warriors and hunters, but they are now fast melting + away, and before long, will be numbered among those extinguished nations + of the west that exist but in tradition. + </p> + <p> + In his correspondence with Mr. Astor, from this point of his journey, Mr. + Hunt gives a sad account of the Indian tribes bordering on the river. They + were in continual war with each other, and their wars were of the most + harassing kind; consisting, not merely of main conflicts and expeditions + of moment, involving the sackings, burnings, and massacres of towns and + villages, but of individual acts of treachery, murder, and cold-blooded + cruelty; or of vaunting and foolhardy exploits of single warriors, either + to avenge some personal wrong, or gain the vainglorious trophy of a scalp. + The lonely hunter, the wandering wayfarer, the poor squaw cutting wood or + gathering corn, was liable to be surprised and slaughtered. In this way + tribes were either swept away at once, or gradually thinned out, and + savage life was surrounded with constant horrors and alarms. That the race + of red men should diminish from year to year, and so few should survive of + the numerous nations which evidently once peopled the vast regions of the + west, is nothing surprising; it is rather matter of surprise that so many + should survive; for the existence of a savage in these parts seems little + better than a prolonged and all-besetting death. It is, in fact, a + caricature of the boasted romance of feudal times; chivalry in its native + and uncultured state, and knight-errantry run wild. + </p> + <p> + In their most prosperous days, the Omahas looked upon themselves as the + most powerful and perfect of human beings, and considered all created + things as made for their peculiar use and benefit. It is this tribe of + whose chief, the famous Wash-ing-guhsah-ba, or Blackbird, such savage and + romantic stories are told. He had died about ten years previous to the + arrival of Mr. Hunt’s party, but his name was still mentioned with awe by + his people. He was one of the first among the Indian chiefs on the + Missouri to deal with the white traders, and showed great sagacity in + levying his royal dues. When a trader arrived in his village, he caused + all his goods to be brought into his lodge and opened. From these he + selected whatever suited his sovereign pleasure; blankets, tobacco, + whiskey, powder, ball, beads, and red paint; and laid the articles on one + side, without deigning to give any compensation. Then calling to him his + herald or crier, he would order him to mount on top of the lodge and + summon all the tribe to bring in their peltries, and trade with the white + man. The lodge would soon be crowded with Indians bringing bear, beaver, + otter, and other skins. No one was allowed to dispute the prices fixed by + the white trader upon his articles; who took care to indemnify himself + five times over for the goods set apart by the chief. In this way the + Blackbird enriched himself, and enriched the white men, and became + exceedingly popular among the traders of the Missouri. His people, + however, were not equally satisfied by a regulation of trade which worked + so manifestly against them, and began to show signs of discontent. Upon + this a crafty and unprincipled trader revealed a secret to the Blackbird, + by which he might acquire unbounded sway over his ignorant and + superstitious subjects. He instructed him in the poisonous qualities of + arsenic, and furnished him with an ample supply of that baneful drug. From + this time the Blackbird seemed endowed with supernatural powers, to + possess the gift of prophecy, and to hold the disposal of life and death + within his hands. Woe to any one who questioned his authority or dared to + dispute his commands! The Blackbird prophesied his death within a certain + time, and he had the secret means of verifying his prophecy. Within the + fated period the offender was smitten with strange and sudden disease, and + perished from the face of the earth. Every one stood aghast at these + multiplied examples of his superhuman might, and dreaded to displease so + omnipotent and vindictive a being; and the Blackbird enjoyed a wide and + undisputed sway. + </p> + <p> + It was not, however, by terror alone that he ruled his people; he was a + warrior of the first order, and his exploits in arms were the theme of + young and old. His career had begun by hardships, having been taken + prisoner by the Sioux, in early youth. Under his command, the Omahas + obtained great character for military prowess, nor did he permit an insult + or an injury to one of his tribe to pass unrevenged. The Pawnee + republicans had inflicted a gross indignity on a favorite and + distinguished Omaha brave. The Blackbird assembled his warriors, led them + against the Pawnee town, attacked it with irresistible fury, slaughtered a + great number of its inhabitants, and burnt it to the ground. He waged + fierce and bloody war against the Ottoes for many years, until peace was + effected between them by the mediation of the whites. Fearless in battle, + and fond of signalizing himself, he dazzled his followers by daring acts. + In attacking a Kanza village, he rode singly round it, loading and + discharging his rifle at the inhabitants as he galloped past them. He kept + up in war the same idea of mysterious and supernatural power. At one time, + when pursuing a war party by their tracks across the prairies, he + repeatedly discharged his rifle into the prints made by their feet and by + the hoofs of their horses, assuring his followers that he would thereby + cripple the fugitives, so that they would easily be overtaken. He in fact + did overtake them, and destroyed them almost to a man; and his victory was + considered miraculous, both by friends and foe. By these and similar + exploits, he made himself the pride and boast of his people, and became + popular among them, notwithstanding his death-denouncing fiat. + </p> + <p> + With all his savage and terrific qualities, he was sensible of the power + of female beauty, and capable of love. A war party of the Poncas had made + a foray into the lands of the Omahas, and carried off a number of women + and horses. The Blackbird was roused to fury, and took the field with all + his braves, swearing to “eat up the Ponca nation”—the Indian threat + of exterminating war. The Poncas, sorely pressed, took refuge behind a + rude bulwark of earth; but the Blackbird kept up so galling a fire, that + he seemed likely to execute his menace. In their extremity they sent forth + a herald, bearing the calumet or pipe of peace, but he was shot down by + order of the Blackbird. Another herald was sent forth in similar guise, + but he shared a like fate. The Ponca chief then, as a last hope, arrayed + his beautiful daughter in her finest ornaments, and sent her forth with a + calumet, to sue for peace. The charms of the Indian maid touched the stern + heart of the Blackbird; he accepted the pipe at her hand, smoked it, and + from that time a peace took place between the Poncas and the Omahas. + </p> + <p> + This beautiful damsel, in all probability, was the favorite wife whose + fate makes so tragic an incident in the story of the Blackbird. Her youth + and beauty had gained an absolute sway over his rugged heart, so that he + distinguished her above all of his other wives. The habitual gratification + of his vindictive impulses, however, had taken away from him all mastery + over his passions, and rendered him liable to the most furious transports + of rage. In one of these his beautiful wife had the misfortune to offend + him, when suddenly drawing his knife, he laid her dead at his feet with a + single blow. + </p> + <p> + In an instant his frenzy was at an end. He gazed for a time in mute + bewilderment upon his victim; then drawing his buffalo robe over his head, + he sat down beside the corpse, and remained brooding over his crime and + his loss. Three days elapsed, yet the chief continued silent and + motionless; tasting no food, and apparently sleepless. It was apprehended + that he intended to starve himself to death; his people approached him in + trembling awe, and entreated him once more to uncover his face and be + comforted; but he remained unmoved. At length one of his warriors brought + in a small child, and laying it on the ground, placed the foot of the + Blackbird upon its neck. The heart of the gloomy savage was touched by + this appeal; he threw aside his robe; made an harangue upon what he had + done; and from that time forward seemed to have thrown the load of grief + and remorse from his mind. + </p> + <p> + He still retained his fatal and mysterious secret, and with it his + terrific power; but, though able to deal death to his enemies, he could + not avert it from himself or his friends. In 1802 the small-pox, that + dreadful pestilence, which swept over the land like a fire over the + prairie, made its appearance in the village of the Omahas. The poor + savages saw with dismay the ravages of a malady, loathsome and agonizing + in its details, and which set the skill and experience of their conjurors + and medicine men at defiance. In a little while, two thirds of the + population were swept from the face of the earth, and the doom of the rest + seemed sealed. The stoicism of the warriors was at an end; they became + wild and desperate; some set fire to the village as a last means of + checking the pestilence; others, in a frenzy of despair, put their wives + and children to death, that they might be spared the agonies of an + inevitable disease, and that they might all go to some better country. + </p> + <p> + When the general horror and dismay was at its height, the Blackbird + himself was struck down with the malady. The poor savages, when they saw + their chief in danger, forgot their own miseries, and surrounded his dying + bed. His dominant spirit, and his love for the white men, were evinced in + his latest breath, with which he designated his place of sepulture. It was + to be on a hill or promontory, upwards of four hundred feet in height, + overlooking a great extent of the Missouri, from whence he had been + accustomed to watch for the barks of the white men. The Missouri washes + the base of the promontory, and after winding and doubling in many links + and mazes in the plain below, returns to within nine hundred yards of its + starting-place; so that for thirty miles navigating with sail and oar the + voyager finds himself continually near to this singular promontory as if + spell-bound. + </p> + <p> + It was the dying command of the Blackbird that his tomb should be on the + summit of this hill, in which he should be interred, seated on his + favorite horse, that he might overlook his ancient domain, and behold the + barks of the white men as they came up the river to trade with his people. + </p> + <p> + His dying orders were faithfully obeyed. His corpse was placed astride of + his war-steed and a mound raised over them on the summit of the hill. On + top of the mound was erected a staff, from which fluttered the banner of + the chieftain, and the scalps that he had taken in battle. When the + expedition under Mr. Hunt visited that part of the country, the staff + still remained, with the fragments of the banner; and the superstitious + rite of placing food from time to time on the mound, for the use of the + deceased, was still observed by the Omahas. That rite has since fallen + into disuse, for the tribe itself is almost extinct. Yet the hill of the + Blackbird continues an object of veneration to the wandering savage, and a + landmark to the voyager of the Missouri; and as the civilized traveller + comes within sight of its spell-bound crest, the mound is pointed out to + him from afar, which still incloses the grim skeletons of the Indian + warrior and his horse. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Rumors of Danger From the Sioux Tetons.—Ruthless Character + of Those Savages.—Pirates of the Missouri.—Their Affair + with Crooks and M’Lellan.—A Trading Expedition Broken Up.— + M’Lellan’s Vow of Vengeance.—Uneasiness in the Camp.— + Desertions.-Departure From the Omaha Village.—Meeting With + Jones and Carson, two Adventurous Trappers.—Scientific + Pursuits of Messrs. Bradbury and Nuttall.—Zeal of a + Botanist.—Adventure of Mr. Bradbury with a Ponca Indian.— + Expedient of the Pocket Compass and Microscope.—A Messenger + From Lisa.—Motives for Pressing Forward. +</pre> + <p> + WHILE Mr. Hunt and his party were sojourning at the village of the Omahas, + three Sioux Indians of the Yankton Alma tribe arrived, bringing unpleasant + intelligence. They reported that certain bands of the Sioux Tetons, who + inhabited a region many leagues further up the Missouri, were near at + hand, awaiting the approach of the party, with the avowed intention of + opposing their progress. + </p> + <p> + The Sioux Tetons were at that time a sort of pirates of the Missouri, who + considered the well freighted bark of the American trader fair game. They + had their own traffic with the British merchants of the Northwest, who + brought them regular supplies of merchandise by way of the river St. + Peter. Being thus independent of the Missouri traders for their supplies, + they kept no terms with them, but plundered them whenever they had an + opportunity. It has been insinuated that they were prompted to these + outrages by the British merchants, who wished to keep off all rivals in + the Indian trade; but others allege another motive, and one savoring of a + deeper policy. The Sioux, by their intercourse with the British traders, + had acquired the use of firearms, which had given them vast superiority + over other tribes higher up the Missouri. They had made themselves also, + in a manner, factors for the upper tribes, supplying them at second hand, + and at greatly advanced prices, with goods derived from the white men. The + Sioux, therefore, saw with jealousy the American traders pushing their way + up the Missouri; foreseeing that the upper tribes would thus be relieved + from all dependence on them for supplies; nay, what was worse, would be + furnished with fire-arms, and elevated into formidable rivals. + </p> + <p> + We have already alluded to a case in which Mr. Crooks and Mr. M’Lellan had + been interrupted in a trading voyage by these ruffians of the river, and, + as it is in some degree connected with circumstances hereafter to be + related, we shall specify it more particularly. + </p> + <p> + About two years before the time of which we are treating, Crooks and + M’Lellan were ascending the river in boats with a party of about forty + men, bound on one of their trading expeditions to the upper tribes. In one + of the bends of the river, where the channel made a deep curve under + impending banks, they suddenly heard yells and shouts above them, and + beheld the cliffs overhead covered with armed savages. It was a band of + Sioux warriors, upwards of six hundred strong. They brandished their + weapons in a menacing manner, and ordered the boats to turn back and land + lower down the river. There was no disputing these commands, for they had + the power to shower destruction upon the white men, without risk to + themselves. Crooks and M’Lellan, therefore, turned back with feigned + alacrity, and, landing, had an interview with the Sioux. The latter + forbade them, under pain of exterminating hostility, from attempting to + proceed up the river, but offered to trade peacefully with them if they + would halt where they were. The party, being principally composed of + voyageurs, was too weak to contend with so superior a force, and one so + easily augmented; they pretended, therefore, to comply cheerfully with + their arbitrary dictation, and immediately proceeded to cut down trees and + erect a trading house. The warrior band departed for their village, which + was about twenty miles distant, to collect objects of traffic; they left + six or eight of their number, however, to keep watch upon the white men, + and scouts were continually passing to and fro with intelligence. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Crooks saw that it would be impossible to prosecute his voyage without + the danger of having his boats plundered, and a great part of his men + massacred; he determined, however, not to be entirely frustrated in the + objects of his expedition. While he continued, therefore, with great + apparent earnestness and assiduity, the construction of the trading house, + he despatched the hunters and trappers of his party in a canoe, to make + their way up the river to the original place of destination, there to busy + themselves in trapping and collecting peltries, and to await his arrival + at some future period. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the detachment had had sufficient time to ascend beyond the + hostile country of the Sioux, Mr. Crooks suddenly broke up his feigned + trading establishment, embarked his men and effects, and, after giving the + astonished rear-guard of savages a galling and indignant message to take + to their countrymen, pushed down the river with all speed, sparing neither + oar nor paddle, day nor night, until fairly beyond the swoop of these + river hawks. + </p> + <p> + What increased the irritation of Messrs. Crooks and M’Lellan, at this + mortifying check to their gainful enterprise, was the information that a + rival trader was at the bottom of it; the Sioux, it is said, having been + instigated to this outrage by Mr. Manuel Lisa, the leading partner and + agent of the Missouri Fur Company, already mentioned. This intelligence, + whether true or false, so roused the fiery temper of M’Lellan, that he + swore, if ever he fell in with Lisa in the Indian country, he would shoot + him on the spot; a mode of redress perfectly in unison with the character + of the man, and the code of honor prevalent beyond the frontier. + </p> + <p> + If Crooks and M’Lellan had been exasperated by the insolent conduct of the + Sioux Tetons, and the loss which it had occasioned, those freebooters had + been no less indignant at being outwitted by the white men, and + disappointed of their anticipated gains, and it was apprehended they would + be particularly hostile against the present expedition, when they should + learn that these gentlemen were engaged in it. + </p> + <p> + All these causes of uneasiness were concealed as much as possible from the + Canadian voyageurs, lest they should become intimidated; it was + impossible, however, to prevent the rumors brought by the Indians from + leaking out, and they became subjects of gossiping and exaggeration. The + chief of the Omahas, too, on returning from a hunting excursion, reported + that two men had been killed some distance above, by a band of Sioux. This + added to the fears that already began to be excited. The voyageurs + pictured to themselves bands of fierce warriors stationed along each bank + of the river, by whom they would be exposed to be shot down in their + boats: or lurking hordes, who would set on them at night, and massacre + them in their encampments. Some lost heart, and proposed to return, rather + than fight their way, and, in a manner, run the gauntlet through the + country of these piratical marauders. In fact, three men deserted while at + this village. Luckily, their place was supplied by three others who + happened to be there, and who were prevailed on to join the expedition by + promises of liberal pay, and by being fitted out and equipped in complete + style. + </p> + <p> + The irresolution and discontent visible among some of his people, arising + at times almost to mutiny, and the occasional desertions which took place + while thus among friendly tribes, and within reach of the frontiers, added + greatly to the anxieties of Mr. Hunt, and rendered him eager to press + forward and leave a hostile tract behind him, so that it would be as + perilous to return as to keep on, and no one would dare to desert. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, on the 15th of May he departed from the village of the + Omahas, and set forward towards the country of the formidable Sioux + Tetons. For the first five days they had a fair and fresh breeze, and the + boats made good progress. The wind then came ahead, and the river + beginning to rise, and to increase in rapidity, betokened the commencement + of the annual flood, caused by the melting of the snow on the Rocky + Mountains, and the vernal rains of the upper prairies. + </p> + <p> + As they were now entering a region where foes might be lying in wait on + either bank, it was determined, in hunting for game, to confine themselves + principally to the islands, which sometimes extend to considerable length, + and are beautifully wooded, affording abundant pasturage and shade. On one + of these they killed three buffaloes and two elks, and halting on the edge + of a beautiful prairie, made a sumptuous hunter’s repast. They had not + long resumed their boats and pulled along the river banks when they + descried a canoe approaching, navigated by two men, whom, to their + surprise, they ascertained to be white men. They proved to be two of those + strange and fearless wanderers of the wilderness, the trappers. Their + names were Benjamin Jones and Alexander Carson. They had been for two + years past hunting and trapping near the head of the Missouri, and were + thus floating for thousands of miles in a cockle-shell, down a turbulent + stream, through regions infested by savage tribes, yet apparently as easy + and unconcerned as if navigating securely in the midst of civilization. + </p> + <p> + The acquisition of two such hardy, experienced, and dauntless hunters was + peculiarly desirable at the present moment. They needed but little + persuasion. The wilderness is the home of the trapper; like the sailor, he + cares but little to which point of the compass he steers; and Jones and + Carson readily abandoned their voyage to St. Louis, and turned their faces + towards the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + The two naturalists, Mr. Bradbury and Mr. Nuttall, who had joined the + expedition at St. Louis, still accompanied it, and pursued their + researches on all occasions. Mr. Nuttall seems to have been exclusively + devoted to his scientific pursuits. He was a zealous botanist, and all his + enthusiasm was awakened at beholding a new world, as it were, opening upon + him in the boundless prairies, clad in the vernal and variegated robe of + unknown flowers. Whenever the boats landed at meal times, or for any + temporary purpose, he would spring on shore, and set out on a hunt for new + specimens. Every plant or flower of a rare or unknown species was eagerly + seized as a prize. Delighted with the treasures spreading themselves out + before him, he went groping and stumbling along among the wilderness of + sweets, forgetful of everything but his immediate pursuit, and had often + to be sought after when the boats were about to resume their course. At + such times he would be found far off in the prairies, or up the course of + some petty stream, laden with plants of all kinds. + </p> + <p> + The Canadian voyageurs, who are a class of people that know nothing out of + their immediate line, and with constitutional levity make a jest of + anything they cannot understand, were extremely puzzled by this passion + for collecting what they considered mere useless weeds. When they saw the + worthy botanist coming back heavy laden with his specimens, and treasuring + them up as carefully as a miser would his hoard, they used to make merry + among themselves at his expense, regarding him as some whimsical kind of + madman. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Bradbury was less exclusive in his tastes and habits, and combined the + hunter and sportsman with the naturalist. He took his rifle or his + fowling-piece with him in his geological researches, conformed to the + hardy and rugged habits of the men around him, and of course gained favor + in their eyes. He had a strong relish for incident and adventure, was + curious in observing savage manners, and savage life, and ready to join + any hunting or other excursion. Even now, that the expedition was + proceeding through a dangerous neighborhood, he could not check his + propensity to ramble. Having observed, on the evening of the 22d of May, + that the river ahead made a great bend which would take up the navigation + of the following day, he determined to profit by the circumstance. On the + morning of the 23d, therefore, instead of embarking, he filled his + shot-pouch with parched corn, for provisions, and set off to cross the + neck on foot and meet the boats in the afternoon at the opposite side of + the bend. Mr. Hunt felt uneasy at his venturing thus alone, and reminded + him that he was in an enemy’s country; but Mr. Bradbury made light of the + danger, and started off cheerily upon his ramble. His day was passed + pleasantly in traversing a beautiful tract, making botanical and + geological researches, and observing the habits of an extensive village of + prairie dogs, at which he made several ineffectual shots, without + considering the risk he ran of attracting the attention of any savages + that might be lurking in the neighborhood. In fact he had totally + forgotten the Sioux Tetons, and all the other perils of the country, when, + about the middle of the afternoon, as he stood near the river bank, and + was looking out for the boat, he suddenly felt a hand laid on his + shoulder. Starting and turning round, he beheld a naked savage with a bow + bent, and the arrow pointed at his breast. In an instant his gun was + leveled and his hand upon the lock. The Indian drew his bow still further, + but forbore to launch the shaft. Mr. Bradbury, with admirable presence of + mind, reflected that the savage, if hostile in his intents, would have + shot him without giving him a chance of defense; he paused, therefore, and + held out his hand. The other took it in sign of friendship, and demanded + in the Osage language whether he was a Big Knife, or American. He answered + in the affirmative, and inquired whether the other were a Sioux. To his + great relief he found that he was a Ponca. By his time two other Indians + came running up, and all three laid hold of Mr. Bradbury and seemed + disposed to compel him to go off with them among the hills. He resisted, + and sitting down on a sand hill contrived to amuse them with a pocket + compass. When the novelty of this was exhausted they again seized him, but + he now produced a small microscope. This new wonder again fixed the + attention of the savages, who have more curiosity than it has been the + custom to allow them. While thus engaged, one of them suddenly leaped up + and gave a war-whoop. The hand of the hardy naturalist was again on his + gun, and he was prepared to make battle, when the Indian pointed down the + river and revealed the true cause of his yell. It was the mast of one of + the boats appearing above the low willows which bordered the stream. Mr. + Bradbury felt infinitely relieved by the sight. The Indians on their part + now showed signs of apprehension, and were disposed to run away; but he + assured them of good treatment and something to drink if they would + accompany him on board of the boats. They lingered for a time, but + disappeared before the boats came to land. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning they appeared at camp accompanied by several of + their tribe. With them came also a white man, who announced himself as a + messenger bearing missives for Mr. Hunt. In fact he brought a letter from + Mr. Manuel Lisa, partner and agent of the Missouri Fur Company. As has + already been mentioned, this gentleman was going in search of Mr. Henry + and his party, who had been dislodged from the forks of the Missouri by + the Blackfeet Indians, and had shifted his post somewhere beyond the Rocky + Mountains. Mr. Lisa had left St. Louis three weeks after Mr. Hunt, and + having heard of the hostile intentions of the Sioux, had made the greatest + exertions to overtake him, that they might pass through the dangerous part + of the river together. He had twenty stout oarsmen in his service and they + plied their oars so vigorously, that he had reached the Omaha village just + four days after the departure of Mr. Hunt. From this place he despatched + the messenger in question, trusting to his overtaking the barges as they + toiled up against the stream, and were delayed by the windings of the + river. The purport of his letter was to entreat Mr. Hunt to wait until he + could come up with him, that they might unite their forces and be a + protection to each other in their perilous course through the country of + the Sioux. In fact, as it was afterwards ascertained, Lisa was + apprehensive that Mr. Hunt would do him some ill office with the Sioux + band, securing his own passage through their country by pretending that + he, with whom they were accustomed to trade, was on his way to them with a + plentiful supply of goods. He feared, too, that Crooks and M’Lellan would + take this opportunity to retort upon him the perfidy which they accused + him of having used, two years previously, among these very Sioux. In this + respect, however, he did them signal injustice. There was no such thing as + court design or treachery in their thought; but M’Lellan, when he heard + that Lisa was on his way up the river, renewed his open threat of shooting + him the moment he met him on Indian land. + </p> + <p> + The representations made by Crooks and M’Lellan of the treachery they had + experienced, or fancied, on the part of Lisa, had great weight with Mr. + Hunt, especially when he recollected the obstacles that had been thrown in + his way by that gentleman at St. Louis. He doubted, therefore, the fair + dealing of Lisa, and feared that, should they enter the Sioux country + together, the latter might make use of his influence with that tribe, as + he had in the case of Crooks and M’Lellan, and instigate them to oppose + his progress up the river. + </p> + <p> + He sent back, therefore, an answer calculated to beguile Lisa, assuring + him that he would wait for him at the Poncas village, which was but a + little distance in advance; but, no sooner had the messenger departed, + than he pushed forward with all diligence, barely stopping at the village + to procure a supply of dried buffalo meat, and hastened to leave the other + party as far behind as possible, thinking there was less to be apprehended + from the open hostility of Indian foes than from the quiet strategy of an + Indian trader. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Camp Gossip.—Deserters.—Recruits.—Kentucky Hunters.—A + Veteran Woodman.—Tidings of Mr. Henry.-Danger From the + Blackfeet.—Alteration of Plans.—Scenery of the River.— + Buffalo Roads.—Iron Ore.—Country of the Sioux.—A Land of + Danger.-apprehensions of the Voyageurs.—Indian Scouts.— + Threatened Hostilities.—A Council of War.—An Array of + Battle.—A Parley.—The Pipe of Peace.—Speech-Making. +</pre> + <p> + IT was about noon when the party left the Poncas village, about a league + beyond which they passed the mouth of the Quicourt, or Rapid River + (called, in the original French, l’Eau Qui Court). After having proceeded + some distance further, they landed, and encamped for the night. In the + evening camp, the voyageurs gossiped, as usual, over the events of the + day; and especially over intelligence picked up among the Poncas. These + Indians had confirmed the previous reports of the hostile intentions of + the Sioux, and had assured them that five tribes, or bands, of that fierce + nation were actually assembled higher up the river, and waiting to cut + them off. This evening gossip, and the terrific stories of Indian warfare + to which it gave rise, produced a strong effect upon the imagination of + the irresolute; and in the morning it was discovered that the two men, who + had joined the party at the Omaha village, and been so bounteously fitted + out, had deserted in the course of the night, carrying with them all their + equipments. As it was known that one of them could not swim, it was hoped + that the banks of the Quicourt River would bring them to a halt. A general + pursuit was therefore instituted, but without success. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning (May 26th), as they were all on shore, + breakfasting on one of the beautiful banks of the river, they observed two + canoes descending along the opposite side. By the aid of spy-glasses, they + ascertained that there were two white men in one of the canoes, and one in + the other. A gun was discharged, which called the attention of the + voyagers, who crossed over. They proved to be the three Kentucky hunters, + of the true “dreadnought” stamp. Their names were Edward Robinson, John + Hoback, and Jacob Rizner. Robinson was a veteran backwoodsman, sixty-six + years of age. He had been one of the first settlers of Kentucky, and + engaged in many of the conflicts of the Indians on “the Bloody Ground.” In + one of these battles he had been scalped, and he still wore a handkerchief + bound round his head to protect the part. These men had passed several + years in the upper wilderness. They had been in the service of the + Missouri Company under Mr. Henry, and had crossed the Rocky Mountains with + him in the preceding year, when driven from his post on the Missouri by + the hostilities of the Blackfeet. After crossing the mountains, Mr. Henry + had established himself on one of the head branches of the Columbia River. + There they had remained with him some months, hunting and trapping, until, + having satisfied their wandering propensities, they felt disposed to + return to the families and comfortable homes which they had left in + Kentucky. They had accordingly made their way back across the mountains, + and down the rivers, and were in full career for St. Louis, when thus + suddenly interrupted. The sight of a powerful party of traders, trappers, + hunters, and voyageurs, well armed and equipped, furnished at all points, + in high health and spirits, and banqueting lustily on the green margin of + the river, was a spectacle equally stimulating to these veteran + backwoodsmen with the glorious array of a campaigning army to an old + soldier; but when they learned the grand scope and extent of the + enterprise in hand, it was irresistible; homes and families and all the + charms of green Kentucky vanished from their thoughts; they cast loose + their canoes to drift down the stream, and joyfully enlisted in the band + of adventurers. They engaged on similar terms with some of the other + hunters. The company was to fit them out, and keep them supplied with the + requisite equipments and munitions, and they were to yield one half of the + produce of their hunting and trapping. + </p> + <p> + The addition of three such staunch recruits was extremely acceptable at + this dangerous part of the river. The knowledge of the country which they + had acquired, also, in their journeys and hunting excursions along the + rivers and among the Rocky Mountains was all important; in fact, the + information derived from them induced Mr. Hunt to alter his future course. + He had hitherto intended to proceed by the route taken by Lewis and Clarke + in their famous exploring expedition, ascending he Missouri to its forks, + and thence going, by land, across the mountains. These men informed him, + however, that, on taking that course he would have to pass through the + country invested by the savage tribe of the Blackfeet, and would be + exposed to their hostilities; they being, as has already been observed, + exasperated to deadly animosity against the whites, on account of the + death of one of their tribe by the hand of Captain Lewis. They advised him + rather to pursue a route more to the southward, being the same by which + they had returned. This would carry them over the mountains about where + the head-waters of the Platte and the Yellowstone take their rise, at a + place much more easy and practicable than that where Lewis and Clarke had + crossed. In pursuing this course, also, he would pass through a country + abounding with game, where he would have a better chance of procuring a + constant supply of provisions than by the other route, and would run less + risk of molestation from the Blackfeet. Should he adopt this advice, it + would be better for him to abandon the river at the Arickara town, at + which he would arrive in the course of a few days. As the Indians at that + town possessed horses in abundance, he might purchase a sufficient number + of them for his great journey overland, which would commence at that + place. + </p> + <p> + After reflecting on this advice, and consulting with his associates, Mr. + Hunt came to the determination to follow the route thus pointed out, to + which the hunters engaged to pilot him. + </p> + <p> + The party continued their voyage with delightful May weather. The prairies + bordering on the river were gayly painted with innumerable flowers, + exhibiting the motley confusion of colors of a Turkey carpet. The + beautiful islands, also, on which they occasionally halted, presented the + appearance of mingled grove and garden. The trees were often covered with + clambering grapevines in blossom, which perfumed the air. Between the + stately masses of the groves were grassy lawns and glades, studded with + flowers, or interspersed with rose-bushes in full bloom. These islands + were often the resort of the buffalo, the elk, and the antelope, who had + made innumerable paths among the trees and thickets, which had the effect + of the mazy walks and alleys of parks and shrubberies. Sometimes, where + the river passed between high banks and bluffs, the roads made by the + tramp of buffaloes for many ages along the face of the heights, looked + like so many well-travelled highways. At other places the banks were + banded with great veins of iron ore, laid bare by the abrasion of the + river. At one place the course of the river was nearly in a straight line + for about fifteen miles. The banks sloped gently to its margin, without a + single tree, but bordered with grass and herbage of a vivid green. Along + each bank, for the whole fifteen miles, extended a stripe, one hundred + yards in breadth, of a deep rusty brown, indicating an inexhaustible bed + of iron, through the center of which the Missouri had worn its way. + Indications of the continuance of this bed were afterwards observed higher + up the river. It is, in fact, one of the mineral magazines which nature + has provided in the heart of this vast realm of fertility, and which, in + connection with the immense beds of coal on the same river, seem garnered + up as the elements of the future wealth and power of the mighty West. + </p> + <p> + The sight of these mineral treasures greatly excited the curiosity of Mr. + Bradbury, and it was tantalizing to him to be checked in his scientific + researches, and obliged to forego his usual rambles on shore; but they + were now entering the fated country of the Sioux Tetons, in which it was + dangerous to wander about unguarded. + </p> + <p> + This country extends for some days’ journey along the river, and consists + of vast prairies, here and there diversified by swelling hills, and cut up + by ravines, the channels of turbid streams in the rainy seasons, but + almost destitute of water during the heats of summer. Here and there on + the sides of the hills, or along the alluvial borders and bottoms of the + ravines, are groves and skirts of forest: but for the most part the + country presented to the eye a boundless waste, covered with herbage, but + without trees. + </p> + <p> + The soil of this immense region is strongly impregnated with sulphur, + copperas, alum, and glauber salts; its various earths impart a deep tinge + to the streams which drain it, and these, with the crumbling of the banks + along the Missouri, give to the waters of that river much of the coloring + matter with which they are clouded. + </p> + <p> + Over this vast tract the roving bands of the Sioux Tetons hold their + vagrant sway, subsisting by the chase of the buffalo, the elk, the deer, + and the antelope, and waging ruthless warfare with other wandering tribes. + </p> + <p> + As the boats made their way up the stream bordered by this land of danger, + many of the Canadian voyageurs, whose fears had been awakened, would + regard with a distrustful eye the boundless waste extending on each side. + All, however, was silent, and apparently untenanted by a human being. Now + and then a herd of deer would be seen feeding tranquilly among the flowery + herbage, or a line of buffaloes, like a caravan on its march, moving + across the distant profile of the prairie. The Canadians, however, began + to apprehend an ambush in every thicket, and to regard the broad, tranquil + plain as a sailor eyes some shallow and perfidious sea, which, though + smooth and safe to the eye, conceals the lurking rock or treacherous + shoal. The very name of a Sioux became a watchword of terror. Not an elk, + a wolf, or any other animal, could appear on the hills, but the boats + resounded with exclamations from stem to stern, “voila les Sioux! voila + les Sioux!” (there are the Sioux! there are the Sioux!) Whenever it was + practicable, the night encampment was on some island in the center of the + stream. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 31st of May, as the travellers were breakfasting on + the right bank of the river, the usual alarm was given, but with more + reason, as two Indians actually made their appearance on a bluff on the + opposite or northern side, and harangued them in a loud voice. As it was + impossible at that distance to distinguish what they said, Mr. Hunt, after + breakfast, crossed the river with Pierre Dorion, the interpreter, and + advanced boldly to converse with them, while the rest remained watching in + mute suspense the movements of the parties. As soon as Mr. Hunt landed, + one of the Indians disappeared behind the hill, but shortly reappeared on + horseback, and went scouring off across the heights. Mr. Hunt held some + conference with the remaining savage, and then recrossed the river to his + party. + </p> + <p> + These two Indians proved to be spies or scouts of a large war party + encamped about a league off, and numbering two hundred and eighty lodges, + or about six hundred warriors, of three different tribes of Sioux; the + Yangtons Ahna, the Tetons Bois-brule, and the Tetons Min-na-kine-azzo. + They expected daily to be reinforced by two other tribes, and had been + waiting eleven days for the arrival of Mr. Hunt’s party, with a + determination to oppose their progress up the river; being resolved to + prevent all trade of the white men with their enemies the Arickaras, + Mandans, and Minatarees. The Indian who had galloped off on horseback had + gone to give notice of the approach of the party, so that they might now + look out for some fierce scenes with those piratical savages, of whom they + had received so many formidable accounts. + </p> + <p> + The party braced up their spirits to the encounter, and reembarking, + pulled resolutely up the stream. An island for some time intervened + between them and the opposite side of the river; but on clearing the upper + end, they came in full view of the hostile shore. There was a ridge of + hills down which the savages were pouring in great numbers, some on + horseback, and some on foot. Reconnoitering them with the aid of glasses, + they perceived that they were all in warlike array, painted and decorated + for battle. Their weapons were bows and arrows, and a few short carbines, + and most of them had round shields. Altogether they had a wild and gallant + appearance, and, taking possession of a point which commanded the river, + ranged themselves along the bank as if prepared to dispute their passage. + </p> + <p> + At sight of this formidable front of war, Mr. Hunt and his companions held + counsel together. It was plain that the rumors they had heard were + correct, and the Sioux were determined to oppose their progress by force + of arms. To attempt to elude them and continue along the river was out of + the question. The strength of the mid-current was too violent to be + withstood, and the boats were obliged to ascend along the river banks. + These banks were often high and perpendicular, affording the savages + frequent stations, from whence, safe themselves, and almost unseen, they + might shower down their missiles upon the boats below, and retreat at + will, without danger from pursuit. Nothing apparently remained, therefore, + but to fight or turn back. The Sioux far outnumbered them, it is true, but + their own party was about sixty strong, well armed and supplied with + ammunition; and, beside their guns and rifles, they had a swivel and two + howitzers mounted in the boats. Should they succeed in breaking this + Indian force by one vigorous assault, it was likely they would be deterred + from making any future attack of consequence. The fighting alternative + was, therefore, instantly adopted, and the boats pulled to shore nearly + opposite to the hostile force. Here the arms were all examined and put in + order. The swivel and howitzers were then loaded with powder and + discharged, to let the savages know by the report how formidably they were + provided. The noise echoed along the shores of the river, and must have + startled the warriors who were only accustomed to sharp reports of rifles. + The same pieces were then loaded with as many bullets as they would + probably bear; after which the whole party embarked, and pulled across the + river. The Indians remained watching them in silence, their painted forms + and visages glaring in the sun, and their feathers fluttering in the + breeze. The poor Canadians eyed them with rueful glances, and now and then + a fearful ejaculation escaped them. “Parbleu! this is a sad scrape we are + in, brother!” one would mutter to the next oarsman. “Aye, aye!” the other + would reply, “we are not going to a wedding, my friend!” + </p> + <p> + When the boats arrived within rifle-shot, the hunters and other fighting + personages on board seized their weapons, and prepared for action. As they + rose to fire, a confusion took place among the savages. They displayed + their buffalo robes, raised them with both hands above their heads, and + then spread them before them on the ground. At sight of this, Pierre + Dorion eagerly cried out to the party not to fire, as this movement was a + peaceful signal, and an invitation to a parley. Immediately about a dozen + of the principal warriors, separating from the rest, descended to the edge + of the river, lighted a fire, seated themselves in a semicircle round it, + and, displaying the calumet, invited the party to land. Mr. Hunt now + called a council of the partners on board of his boat. The question was, + whether to trust to the amicable overtures of these ferocious people? It + was determined in the affirmative; for, otherwise, there was no + alternative but to fight them. The main body of the party were ordered to + remain on board of the boats, keeping within shot and prepared to fire in + case of any signs of treachery; while Mr. Hunt and the other partners + (M’Kenzie, Crooks, Miller, and M’Lellan) proceeded to land, accompanied by + the interpreter and Mr. Bradbury. The chiefs, who awaited them on the + margin of the river, remained seated in their semicircle, without stirring + a limb or moving a muscle, motionless as so many statues. Mr. Hunt and his + companions advanced without hesitation, and took their seats on the sand + so as to complete the circle. The band of warriors who lined the banks + above stood looking down in silent groups and clusters, some + ostentatiously equipped and decorated, others entirely naked but + fantastically painted, and all variously armed. + </p> + <p> + The pipe of peace was now brought forward with due ceremony. The bowl was + of a species of red stone resembling porphyry; the stem was six feet in + length, decorated with tufts of horse-hair dyed red. The pipe-bearer + stepped within the circle, lighted the pipe, held it towards the sun, then + towards the different points of the compass, after which he handed it to + the principal chief. The latter smoked a few whiffs, then, holding the + head of the pipe in his hand, offered the other end to Mr. Hunt, and to + each one successively in the circle. When all had smoked, it was + considered that an assurance of good faith and amity had been + interchanged. Mr. Hunt now made a speech in French, which was interpreted + as he proceeded by Pierre Dorion. He informed the Sioux of the real object + of the expedition of himself and his companions, which was, not to trade + with any of the tribes up the river, but to cross the mountains to the + great salt lake in the west, in search of some of their brothers, whom + they had not seen for eleven months. That he had heard of the intention of + the Sioux to oppose his passage, and was prepared, as they might see, to + effect it at all hazards; nevertheless, his feelings towards the Sioux + were friendly, in proof of which he had brought them a present of tobacco + and corn. So saying, he ordered about fifteen carottes of tobacco, and as + many bags of corn, to be brought from the boat and laid in a heap near the + council fire. + </p> + <p> + The sight of these presents mollified the chieftain, who had, doubtless, + been previously rendered considerate by the resolute conduct of the white + men, the judicious disposition of their little armament, the completeness + of their equipments, and the compact array of battle which they presented. + He made a speech in reply, in which he stated the object of their hostile + assemblage, which had been merely to prevent supplies of arms and + ammunition from going to the Arickaras, Mandans, and Minatarees, with whom + they were at war; but being now convinced that the party were carrying no + supplies of the kind, but merely proceeding in quest of their brothers + beyond the mountains, they would not impede them in their voyage. He + concluded by thanking them for their present, and advising them to encamp + on the opposite side of the river, as he had some young men among his + warriors for whose discretion he could not be answerable, and who might be + troublesome. + </p> + <p> + Here ended the conference: they all arose, shook hands, and parted. Mr. + Hunt and his companions re-embarked, and the boats proceeded on their + course unmolested. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Great Bend of the Missouri—Crooks and M’Lellan Meet + With Two of Their Indian Opponents—Wanton Outrage of a + White Man the Cause of Indian Hostility—Dangers and + Precautions.-An Indian War Party.—Dangerous Situation of + Mr. Hunt.—A Friendly Encampment.—Feasting and Dancing.— + Approach of Manuel Lisa and His Party—.A Grim Meeting + Between Old Rivals.—Pierre Dorion in a Fury.—A Burst of + chivalry. +</pre> + <p> + ON the afternoon of the following day (June 1st) they arrived at the great + bend, where the river winds for about thirty miles round a circular + peninsula, the neck of which is not above two thousand yards across. On + the succeeding morning, at an early hour, they descried two Indians + standing on a high bank of the river, waving and spreading their buffalo + robes in signs of amity. They immediately pulled to shore and landed. On + approaching the savages, however, the latter showed evident symptoms of + alarm, spreading out their arms horizontally, according to their mode of + supplicating clemency. The reason was soon explained. They proved to be + two chiefs of the very war party that had brought Messrs. Crooks and + M’Lellan to a stand two years before, and obliged them to escape down the + river. They ran to embrace these gentlemen, as if delighted to meet with + them; yet they evidently feared some retaliation of their past misconduct, + nor were they quite at ease until the pipe of peace had been smoked. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt having been informed that the tribe to which these men belonged + had killed three white men during the preceding summer, reproached them + with the crime, and demanded their reasons for such savage hostility. “We + kill white men,” replied one of the chiefs, “because white men kill us. + That very man,” added he, pointing to Carson, one of the new recruits, + “killed one of our brothers last summer. The three white men were slain to + avenge his death.” + </p> + <p> + Their chief was correct in his reply. Carson admitted that, being with a + party of Arickaras on the banks of the Missouri, and seeing a war party of + Sioux on the opposite side, he had fired with his rifle across. It was a + random shot, made without much expectation of effect, for the river was + full half a mile in breadth. Unluckily it brought down a Sioux warrior, + for whose wanton destruction threefold vengeance had been taken, as has + been stated. In this way outrages are frequently committed on the natives + by thoughtless or mischievous white men; the Indians retaliate according + to a law of their code, which requires blood for blood; their act, of what + with them is pious vengeance, resounds throughout the land, and is + represented as wanton and unprovoked; the neighborhood is roused to arms; + a war ensues, which ends in the destruction of half the tribe, the ruin of + the rest, and their expulsion from their hereditary homes. Such is too + often the real history of Indian warfare, which in general is traced up + only to some vindictive act of a savage; while the outrage of the + scoundrel white man that provoked it is sunk in silence. + </p> + <p> + The two chiefs, having smoked their pipe of peace and received a few + presents, departed well satisfied. In a little while two others appeared + on horseback, and rode up abreast of the boats. They had seen the presents + given to their comrades, but were dissatisfied with them, and came after + the boats to ask for more. Being somewhat peremptory and insolent in their + demands, Mr. Hunt gave them a flat refusal, and threatened, if they or any + of their tribes followed him with similar demands, to treat them as + enemies. They turned and rode off in a furious passion. As he was ignorant + what force these chiefs might have behind the hills, and as it was very + possible they might take advantage of some pass of the river to attack the + boats, Mr. Hunt called all stragglers on board and prepared for such + emergency. It was agreed that the large boat commanded by Mr. Hunt should + ascend along the northeast side of the river, and the three smaller boats + along the south side. By this arrangement each party would command a view + of the opposite heights above the heads and out of sight of their + companions, and could give the alarm should they perceive any Indians + lurking there. The signal of alarm was to be two shots fired in quick + succession. + </p> + <p> + The boats proceeded for the greater part of the day without seeing any + signs of an enemy. About four o’clock in the afternoon the large boat, + commanded by Mr. Hunt, came to where the river was divided by a long + sand-bar, which apparently, however, left a sufficient channel between it + and the shore along which they were advancing. He kept up this channel, + therefore, for some distance, until the water proved too shallow for the + boat. It was necessary, therefore, to put about, return down the channel, + and pull round the lower end of the sand-bar into the main stream. Just as + he had given orders to this effect to his men, two signal guns were fired + from the boats on the opposite side of the river. At the same moment, a + file of savage warriors was observed pouring down from the impending bank, + and gathering on the shore at the lower end of the bar. They were + evidently a war party, being armed with bows and arrows, battle clubs and + carbines, and round bucklers of buffalo hide, and their naked bodies were + painted with black and white stripes. The natural inference was, that they + belonged to the two tribes of Sioux which had been expected by the great + war party, and that they had been incited to hostility by the two chiefs + who had been enraged by the refusal and the menace of Mr. Hunt. Here then + was a fearful predicament. Mr. Hunt and his crew seemed caught, as it + were, in a trap. The Indians, to a number of about a hundred, had already + taken possession of a point near which the boat would have to pass: others + kept pouring down the bank, and it was probable that some would remain + posted on the top of the height. + </p> + <p> + The hazardous situation of Mr. Hunt was perceived by those in the other + boats, and they hastened to his assistance. They were at some distance + above the sand-bar, however, and on the opposite side of the river, and + saw, with intense anxiety, the number of savages continually augmenting, + at the lower end of the channel, so that the boat would be exposed to a + fearful attack before they could render it any assistance. Their anxiety + increased, as they saw Mr. Hunt and his party descending the channel and + dauntlessly approaching the point of danger; but it suddenly changed into + surprise on beholding the boat pass close by the savage horde unmolested, + and steer out safely into the broad river. + </p> + <p> + The next moment the whole band of warriors was in motion. They ran along + the bank until they were opposite to the boats, then throwing by their + weapons and buffalo robes, plunged into the river, waded and swam off to + the boats and surrounded them in crowds, seeking to shake hands with every + individual on board; for the Indians have long since found this to be the + white man’s token of amity, and they carried it to an extreme. + </p> + <p> + All uneasiness was now at an end. The Indians proved to be a war party of + Arickaras, Mandans, and Minatarees, consisting of three hundred warriors, + and bound on a foray against the Sioux. Their war plans were abandoned for + the present, and they determined to return to the Arickara town, where + they hoped to obtain from the white men arms and ammunition that would + enable them to take the field with advantage over their enemies. + </p> + <p> + The boats now sought the first convenient place for encamping. The tents + were pitched; the warriors fixed their camp at about a hundred yards + distant; provisions were furnished from the boats sufficient for all + parties; there was hearty though rude feasting in both camps, and in the + evening the red warriors entertained their white friends with dances and + songs, that lasted until after midnight. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning (July 3) the travellers re-embarked, and took a + temporary leave of their Indian friends, who intended to proceed + immediately for the Arickara town, where they expected to arrive in three + days, long before the boats could reach there. Mr. Hunt had not proceeded + far before the chief came galloping along the shore and made signs for a + parley. He said, his people could not go home satisfied unless they had + something to take with them to prove that they had met with the white men. + Mr. Hunt understood the drift of the speech, and made the chief a present + of a cask of powder, a bag of balls, and three dozen of knives, with which + he was highly pleased. While the chief was receiving these presents an + Indian came running along the shore, and announced that a boat, filled + with white men, was coming up the river. This was by no means agreeable + tidings to Mr. Hunt, who correctly concluded it to be the boat of Mr. + Manuel Lisa; and he was vexed to find that alert and adventurous trader + upon his heels, whom he hoped to have out-maneuvered, and left far behind. + Lisa, however, was too much experienced in the wiles of Indian trade to be + lulled by the promise of waiting for him at the Poncas village; on the + contrary, he had allowed himself no repose, and had strained every nerve + to overtake the rival party, and availing himself of the moonlight, had + even sailed during a considerable part of the night. In this he was partly + prompted by his apprehensions of the Sioux, having met a boat which had + probably passed Mr. Hunt’s party in the night, and which had been fired + into by these savages. + </p> + <p> + On hearing that Lisa was so near at hand, Mr. Hunt perceived that it was + useless to attempt any longer to evade him; after proceeding a few miles + further, therefore, he came to a halt and waited for him to come up. In a + little while the barge of Lisa made its appearance. It came sweeping + gently up the river, manned by its twenty stout oarsmen, and armed by a + swivel mounted at the bow. The whole number on board amounted to + twenty-six men: among whom was Mr. Henry Breckenridge, then a young, + enterprising man; who was a mere passenger, tempted by notions of + curiosity to accompany Mr. Lisa. He has since made himself known by + various writings, among which may be noted a narrative of this very + voyage. + </p> + <p> + The approach of Lisa, while it was regarded with uneasiness by Mr. Hunt, + roused the ire of M’Lellan; who, calling to mind old grievances, began to + look round for his rifle, as if he really intended to carry his threat + into execution and shoot him on the spot; and it was with some difficulty + that Mr. Hunt was enabled to restrain his ire, and prevent a scene of + outraged confusion. + </p> + <p> + The meeting between the two leaders, thus mutually distrustful, could not + be very cordial: and as to Messrs. Crooks and M’Lellan, though they + refrained from any outbreak, yet they regarded in grim defiance their old + rival and underplotter. In truth a general distrust prevailed throughout + the party concerning Lisa and his intentions. They considered him artful + and slippery, and secretly anxious for the failure of their expedition. + There being now nothing more to be apprehended from the Sioux, they + suspected that Lisa would take advantage of his twenty-oared barge to + leave them and get first among the Arickaras. As he had traded with those + people and possessed great influence over them, it was feared he might + make use of it to impede the business of Mr. Hunt and his party. It was + resolved, therefore, to keep a sharp look-out upon his movements; and + M’Lellan swore that if he saw the least sign of treachery on his part, he + would instantly put his old threat into execution. + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding these secret jealousies and heart-burnings, the two + parties maintained an outward appearance of civility, and for two days + continued forward in company with some degree of harmony. On the third + day, however, an explosion took place, and it was produced by no less a + personage than Pierre Dorion, the half-breed interpreter. It will be + recollected that this worthy had been obliged to steal a march from St. + Louis, to avoid being arrested for an old whiskey debt which he owed to + the Missouri Fur Company, and by which Mr. Lisa had hoped to prevent his + enlisting in Mr. Hunt’s expedition. Dorion, since the arrival of Lisa, had + kept aloof and regarded him with a sullen and dogged aspect. On the fifth + of July the two parties were brought to a halt by a heavy rain, and + remained encamped about a hundred yards apart. In the course of the day + Lisa undertook to tamper with the faith of Pierre Dorion, and, inviting + him on board of his boat, regaled him with his favorite whiskey. When he + thought him sufficiently mellowed, he proposed to him to quit the service + of his new employers and return to his old allegiance. Finding him not to + be moved by soft words, he called to mind his old debt to the company, and + threatened to carry him off by force, in payment of it. The mention of + this debt always stirred up the gall of Pierre Dorion, bringing with it + the remembrance of the whiskey extortion. A violent quarrel arose between + him and Lisa, and he left the boat in high dudgeon. His first step was to + repair to the tent of Mr. Hunt and reveal the attempt that had been made + to shake his faith. While he was yet talking Lisa entered the tent, under + the pretext of coming to borrow a towing line. High words instantly ensued + between him and Dorion, which ended by the half-breed’s dealing him a + blow. A quarrel in the “Indian country”, however, is not to be settled + with fisticuffs. Lisa immediately rushed to his boat for a weapon. Dorion + snatched up a pair of pistols belonging to Mr. Hunt, and placed himself in + battle array. The noise had roused the camp, and every one pressed to know + the cause. Lisa now reappeared upon the field with a knife stuck in his + girdle. Mr. Breckenridge, who had tried in vain to mollify his ire, + accompanied him to the scene of action. Pierre Dorion’s pistols gave him + the advantage, and he maintained a most warlike attitude. In the meantime, + Crooks and M’Lellan had learnt the cause of the affray, and were each + eager to take the quarrel into their own hands. A scene of uproar and + hubbub ensued that defies description. M’Lellan would have brought his + rifle into play and settled all old and new grudges by a pull of the + trigger, had he not been restrained by Mr. Hunt. That gentleman acted as + moderator, endeavoring to prevent a general melee; in the midst of the + brawl, however, an expression was made use of by Lisa derogatory to his + own honor. In an instant the tranquil spirit of Mr. Hunt was in a flame. + He now became as eager for the fight as any one on the ground, and + challenged Lisa to settle the dispute on the spot with pistols. Lisa + repaired to his boat to arm himself for the deadly feud. He was followed + by Messrs. Bradbury and Breckenridge, who, novices in Indian life and the + “chivalry” of the frontier, had no relish for scenes of blood and brawl. + By their earnest mediation the quarrel was brought to a close without + bloodshed; but the two leaders of the rival camps separated in anger, and + all personal intercourse ceased between them. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Features of the Wilderness—Herds of Buffalo.—Antelopes— + Their Varieties and Habits.—John Day.—His Hunting + Strategy—Interview with Three Arickaras—Negotiations + Between the Rival Parties—The Left-Handed and the Big Man, + two Arickara Chiefs.—Arickara Village—Its Inhabitants— + Ceremonials on Landing—A Council Lodge.—Grand Conference— + Speech of Lisa.—Negotiation for Horses.—Shrewd Suggestion + of Gray Eyes, an Arickara Chief—Encampment of the Trading + Parties. +</pre> + <p> + THE rival parties now coasted along the opposite sides of the river, + within sight of each other; the barges of Mr. Hunt always keeping some + distance in the advance, lest Lisa should push on and get first to the + Arickara village. The scenery and objects, as they proceeded, gave + evidence that they were advancing deeper and deeper into the domains of + savage nature. Boundless wastes kept extending to the eye, more and more + animated by herds of buffalo. Sometimes these unwieldy animals were seen + moving in long procession across the silent landscape; at other times they + were scattered about, singly or in groups, on the broad, enameled prairies + and green acclivities, some cropping the rich pasturage, others reclining + amidst the flowery herbage; the whole scene realizing in a manner the old + Scriptural descriptions of the vast pastoral countries of the Orient, with + “cattle upon a thousand hills.” + </p> + <p> + At one place the shores seemed absolutely lined with buffaloes; many were + making their way across the stream, snorting, and blowing, and + floundering. Numbers, in spite of every effort, were borne by the rapid + current within shot of the boats, and several were killed. At another + place a number were descried on the beach of a small island, under the + shade of the trees, or standing in the water, like cattle, to avoid the + flies and the heat of the day. + </p> + <p> + Several of the best marksmen stationed themselves in the bow of a barge + which advanced slowly and silently, stemming the current with the aid of a + broad sail and a fair breeze. The buffaloes stood gazing quietly at the + barge as it approached, perfectly unconscious of their danger. The fattest + of the herd was selected by the hunters, who all fired together and + brought down their victim. + </p> + <p> + Besides the buffaloes they saw abundance of deer, and frequent gangs of + stately elks, together with light troops of sprightly antelopes, the + fleetest and most beautiful inhabitants of the prairies. + </p> + <p> + There are two kinds of antelopes in these regions, one nearly the size of + the common deer, the other not much larger than a goat. Their color is a + light gray, or rather dun, slightly spotted with white; and they have + small horns like those of the deer, which they never shed. Nothing can + surpass the delicate and elegant finish of their limbs, in which + lightness, elasticity, and strength are wonderfully combined. All the + attitudes and movements of this beautiful animal are graceful and + picturesque; and it is altogether as fit a subject for the fanciful uses + of the poet as the oft-sung gazelle of the East. + </p> + <p> + Their habits are shy and capricious; they keep on the open plains, are + quick to take the alarm, and bound away with a fleetness that defies + pursuit. When thus skimming across a prairie in the autumn, their light + gray or dun color blends with the hue of the withered herbage, the + swiftness of their motion baffles the eye, and they almost seem + unsubstantial forms, driven like gossamer before the wind. + </p> + <p> + While they thus keep to the open plain and trust to their speed, they are + safe; but they have a prurient curiosity that sometimes betrays them to + their ruin. When they have scud for some distance and left their pursuer + behind, they will suddenly stop and turn to gaze at the object of their + alarm. If the pursuit is not followed up they will, after a time, yield to + their inquisitive hankering, and return to the place from whence they have + been frightened. + </p> + <p> + John Day, the veteran hunter already mentioned, displayed his experience + and skill in entrapping one of these beautiful animals. Taking advantage + of its well known curiosity, he laid down flat among the grass, and + putting his handkerchief on the end of his ramrod, waved it gently in the + air. This had the effect of the fabled fascination of the rattlesnake. The + antelope approached timidly, pausing and reconnoitering with increased + curiosity; moving round the point of attraction in a circle, but still + drawing nearer and nearer, until being within range of the deadly rifle, + he fell a victim to his curiosity. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of June, as the party were making brisk progress with a fine + breeze, they met a canoe with three Indians descending the river. They + came to a parley, and brought news from the Arickara village. The war + party, which had caused such alarm at the sand-bar, had reached the + village some days previously, announced the approach of a party of + traders, and displayed with great ostentation the presents they had + received from them. On further conversation with these three Indians, Mr. + Hunt learnt the real danger which he had run, when hemmed up within the + sand-bar. The Mandans who were of the war party, when they saw the boat so + completely entrapped and apparently within their power, had been eager for + attacking it, and securing so rich a prize. The Minatarees, also, were + nothing loath, feeling in some measure committed in hostility to the + whites, in consequence of their tribe having killed two white men above + the fort of the Missouri Fur Company. Fortunately, the Arickaras, who + formed the majority of the war party, proved true in their friendship to + the whites, and prevented any hostile act, otherwise a bloody affray, and + perhaps a horrible massacre might have ensued. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th of June, Mr. Hunt and his companions encamped near an island + about six miles below the Arickara village. Mr. Lisa encamped, as usual, + at no great distance; but the same sullen jealous reserve and + non-intercourse continued between them. Shortly after pitching the tents, + Mr. Breckenridge made his appearance as an ambassador from the rival camp. + He came on behalf of his companions, to arrange the manner of making their + entrance into the village and of receiving the chiefs; for everything of + the kind is a matter of grave ceremonial among the Indians. + </p> + <p> + The partners now expressed frankly their deep distrust of the intentions + of Mr. Lisa, and their apprehensions, that, out of the jealousy of trade, + and resentment of recent disputes, he might seek to instigate the + Arickaras against them. Mr. Breckenridge assured them that their + suspicions were entirely groundless, and pledged himself that nothing of + the kind should take place. He found it difficult, however, to remove + their distrust; the conference, therefore, ended without producing any + cordial understanding; and M’Lellan recurred to his old threat of shooting + Lisa the instant he discovered anything like treachery in his proceedings. + </p> + <p> + That night the rain fell in torrents, accompanied by thunder and + lightning. The camp was deluged, and the bedding and baggage drenched. All + hands embarked at an early hour, and set forward for the village. About + nine o’clock, when half way, they met a canoe, on board of which were two + Arickara dignitaries. One, a fine-looking man, much above the common size, + was hereditary chief of the village; he was called the Left-handed, on + account of a personal peculiarity. The other, a ferocious-looking savage, + was the war chief, or generalissimo; he was known by the name of the Big + Man, an appellation he well deserved from his size, for he was of a + gigantic frame. Both were of fairer complexion than is usual with savages. + </p> + <p> + They were accompanied by an interpreter; a French creole, one of those + haphazard wights of Gallic origin who abound upon our frontiers, living + among the Indians like one of their own race. He had been twenty years + among the Arickaras, had a squaw and troop of piebald children, and + officiated as interpreter to the chiefs. Through this worthy organ the two + dignitaries signified to Mr. Hunt their sovereign intention to oppose the + further progress of the expedition up the river unless a boat were left to + trade with them. Mr. Hunt, in reply, explained the object of his voyage, + and his intention of debarking at their village and proceeding thence by + land; and that he would willingly trade with them for a supply of horses + for his journey. With this explanation they were perfectly satisfied, and + putting about, steered for their village to make preparations for the + reception of the strangers. + </p> + <p> + The village of the Rikaras, Arickaras, or Ricarees, for the name is thus + variously written, is between the 46th and 47th parallels of north + latitude, and fourteen hundred and thirty miles above the mouth of the + Missouri. The party reached it about ten o’clock in the morning, but + landed on the opposite side of the river, where they spread out their + baggage and effects to dry. From hence they commanded an excellent view of + the village. It was divided into two portions, about eighty yards apart, + being inhabited by two distinct bands. The whole extended about + three-quarters of a mile along the river bank, and was composed of conical + lodges, that looked like so many small hillocks, being wooden frames + intertwined with osier, and covered with earth. The plain beyond the + village swept up into hills of considerable height, but the whole country + was nearly destitute of trees. While they were regarding the village, they + beheld a singular fleet coming down the river. It consisted of a number of + canoes, each made of a single buffalo hide stretched on sticks, so as to + form a kind of circular trough. Each one was navigated by a single squaw, + who knelt in the bottom and paddled; towing after her frail bark a bundle + of floating wood intended for firing. This kind of canoe is in frequent + use among the Indians; the buffalo hide being readily made up into a + bundle and transported on horseback; it is very serviceable in conveying + baggage across the rivers. + </p> + <p> + The great number of horses grazing around the village, and scattered over + the neighboring hills and valleys, bespoke the equestrian habit of the + Arickaras, who are admirable horsemen. Indeed, in the number of his horses + consists the wealth of an Indian of the prairies; who resembles an Arab in + his passion for this noble animal, and in his adroitness in the management + of it. + </p> + <p> + After a time, the voice of the sovereign chief, “the Left-handed,” was + heard across the river, announcing that the council lodge was preparing, + and inviting the white men to come over. The river was half a mile in + width, yet every word uttered by the chieftain was heard; this may be + partly attributed to the distinct manner in which every syllable of the + compound words in the Indian language is articulated and accented; but in + truth, a savage warrior might often rival Achilles himself for force of + lungs. * + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (* Bradbury, p. 110.) +</pre> + <p> + Now came the delicate point of management—how the two rival parties + were to conduct their visit to the village with proper circumspection and + due decorum. Neither of the leaders had spoken to each other since their + quarrel. All communication had been by ambassadors. Seeing the jealousy + entertained of Lisa, Mr. Breckenridge, in his negotiation, had arranged + that a deputation from each party should cross the river at the same time, + so that neither would have the first access to the ear of the Arickaras. + </p> + <p> + The distrust of Lisa, however, had increased in proportion as they + approached the sphere of action; and M’Lellan, in particular, kept a + vigilant eye upon his motions, swearing to shoot him if he attempted to + cross the river first. + </p> + <p> + About two o’clock the large boat of Mr. Hunt was manned, and he stepped on + board, accompanied by Messrs. M’Kenzie and M’Lellan; Lisa at the same time + embarked in his barge; the two deputations amounted in all to fourteen + persons, and never was any movement of rival potentates conducted with + more wary exactness. + </p> + <p> + They landed amidst a rabble crowd, and were received on the bank by the + left-handed chief, who conducted them into the village with grave + courtesy; driving to the right and left the swarms of old squaws, imp-like + boys, and vagabond dogs, with which the place abounded. They wound their + way between the cabins, which looked like dirt-heaps huddled together + without any plan, and surrounded by old palisades; all filthy in the + extreme, and redolent of villainous smells. + </p> + <p> + At length they arrived at the council lodge. It was somewhat spacious, and + formed of four forked trunks of trees placed upright, supporting + cross-beams and a frame of poles interwoven with osiers, and the whole + covered with earth. A hole sunken in the center formed the fireplace, and + immediately above was a circular hole in the apex of the lodge, to let out + the smoke and let in the daylight. Around the lodge were recesses for + sleeping, like the berths on board ships, screened from view by curtains + of dressed skins. At the upper end of the lodge was a kind of hunting and + warlike trophy, consisting of two buffalo heads garishly painted, + surmounted by shields, bows, quivers of arrows, and other weapons. + </p> + <p> + On entering the lodge the chief pointed to mats or cushions which had been + placed around for the strangers, and on which they seated themselves, + while he placed himself on a kind of stool. An old man then came forward + with the pipe of peace or good-fellowship, lighted and handed it to the + chief, and then falling back, squatted himself near the door. The pipe was + passed from mouth to mouth, each one taking a whiff, which is equivalent + to the inviolable pledge of faith, of taking salt together among the + ancient Britons. The chief then made a sign to the old pipe-bearer, who + seemed to fill, likewise, the station of herald, seneschal, and public + crier, for he ascended to the top of the lodge to make proclamation. Here + he took his post beside the aperture for the emission of smoke and the + admission of light; the chief dictated from within what he was to + proclaim, and he bawled it forth with a force of lungs that resounded over + all the village. In this way he summoned the warriors and great men to + council; every now and then reporting progress to his chief through the + hole in the roof. + </p> + <p> + In a little while the braves and sages began to enter one by one, as their + names were called or announced, emerging from under the buffalo robe + suspended over the entrance instead of a door, stalking across the lodge + to the skins placed on the floor, and crouching down on them in silence. + In this way twenty entered and took their seats, forming an assemblage + worthy of the pencil: for the Arickaras are a noble race of men, large and + well formed, and maintain a savage grandeur and gravity of demeanor in + their solemn ceremonials. + </p> + <p> + All being seated, the old seneschal prepared the pipe of ceremony or + council, and having lit it, handed it to the chief. He inhaled the sacred + smoke, gave a puff upward to the heaven, then downward to the earth, then + towards the east; after this it was as usual passed from mouth to mouth, + each holding it respectfully until his neighbor had taken several whiffs; + and now the grand council was considered as opened in due form. + </p> + <p> + The chief made an harangue welcoming the white men to his village, and + expressing his happiness in taking them by the hand as friends; but at the + same time complaining of the poverty of himself and his people; the usual + prelude among Indians to begging or hard bargaining. + </p> + <p> + Lisa rose to reply, and the eyes of Hunt and his companions were eagerly + turned upon him, those of M’Lellan glaring like a basilisk’s. He began by + the usual expressions of friendship, and then proceeded to explain the + object of his own party. Those persons, however, said he, pointing to Mr. + Hunt and his companions, are of a different party, and are quite distinct + in their views; but, added he, though we are separate parties, we make but + one common cause when the safety of either is concerned. Any injury or + insult offered to them I shall consider as done to myself, and will resent + it accordingly. I trust, therefore, that you will treat them with the same + friendship that you have always manifested for me, doing everything in + your power to serve them and to help them on their way. The speech of + Lisa, delivered with an air of frankness and sincerity, agreeably + surprised and disappointed the rival party. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt then spoke, declaring the object of his journey to the great Salt + Lake beyond the mountains, and that he should want horses for the purpose, + for which he was ready to trade, having brought with him plenty of goods. + Both he and Lisa concluded their speeches by making presents of tobacco. + </p> + <p> + The left-handed chieftain in reply promised his friendship and aid to the + new comers, and welcomed them to his village. He added that they had not + the number of horses to spare that Mr. Hunt required, and expressed a + doubt whether they should be able to part with any. Upon this, another + chieftain, called Gray Eyes, made a speech, and declared that they could + readily supply Mr. Hunt with all the horses he might want, since, if they + had not enough in the village, they could easily steal more. This honest + expedient immediately removed the main difficulty; but the chief deferred + all trading for a day or two; until he should have time to consult with + his subordinate chiefs as to market rates; for the principal chief of a + village, in conjunction with his council, usually fixes the prices at + which articles shall be bought and sold, and to them the village must + conform. + </p> + <p> + The council now broke up. Mr. Hunt transferred his camp across the river + at a little distance below the village, and the left-handed chief placed + some of his warriors as a guard to prevent the intrusion of any of his + people. The camp was pitched on the river bank just above the boats. The + tents, and the men wrapped in their blankets and bivouacking on skins in + the open air, surrounded the baggage at night. Four sentinels also kept + watch within sight of each other outside of the camp until midnight, when + they were relieved by four others who mounted guard until daylight. Mr. + Lisa encamped near to Mr. Hunt, between him and the village. + </p> + <p> + The speech of Mr. Lisa in the council had produced a pacific effect in the + encampment. Though the sincerity of his friendship and good-will towards + the new company still remained matter of doubt, he was no longer suspected + of an intention to play false. The intercourse between the two leaders was + therefore resumed, and the affairs of both parties went on harmoniously. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + An Indian Horse Fair.—Love of the Indians for Horses— + Scenes in the Arickara Village.—Indian Hospitality.—Duties + of Indian Women. Game Habits of the Men.—Their Indolence. + —Love of Gossiping.—Rumors of Lurking Enemies.—Scouts.— + An Alarm.—A Sallying Forth.—Indian Dogs.—Return of a Horse + —Stealing Party.—An Indian Deputation.—Fresh Alarms.—Return + of a Successful War Party.—Dress of the Arickaras.—Indian + Toilet.—Triumphal Entry of the War Party.—Meetings of + Relations and Friends.—Indian Sensibility.—Meeting of a + Wounded Warrior and His Mother.—Festivities and + Lamentations. +</pre> + <p> + A TRADE now commenced with the Arickaras under the regulation and + supervision of their two chieftains. Lisa sent a part of his goods to the + lodge of the left-handed dignitary, and Mr. Hunt established his mart in + the lodge of the Big Man. The village soon presented the appearance of a + busy fair; and as horses were in demand, the purlieus and the adjacent + plain were like the vicinity of a Tartar encampment; horses were put + through all their paces, and horsemen were careering about with that + dexterity and grace for which the Arickaras are noted. As soon as a horse + was purchased, his tail was cropped, a sure mode of distinguishing him + from the horses of the tribe; for the Indians disdain to practice this + absurd, barbarous, and indecent mutilation, invented by some mean and + vulgar mind, insensible to the merit and perfections of the animal. On the + contrary, the Indian horses are suffered to remain in every respect the + superb and beautiful animals which nature formed them. + </p> + <p> + The wealth of an Indian of the far west consists principally in his + horses, of which each chief and warrior possesses a great number, so that + the plains about an Indian village or encampment are covered with them. + These form objects of traffic, or objects of depredation, and in this way + pass from tribe to tribe over great tracts of country. The horses owned by + the Arickaras are, for the most part, of the wild stock of the prairies; + some, however, had been obtained from the Poncas, Pawnees, and other + tribes to the southwest, who had stolen them from the Spaniards in the + course of horse-stealing expeditions into Mexican territories. These were + to be known by being branded; a Spanish mode of marking horses not + practiced by the Indians. + </p> + <p> + As the Arickaras were meditating another expedition against their enemies + the Sioux, the articles of traffic most in demand were guns, tomahawks, + scalping-knives, powder, ball, and other munitions of war. The price of a + horse, as regulated by the chiefs, was commonly ten dollars’ worth of + goods at first cost. To supply the demand thus suddenly created, parties + of young men and braves had sallied forth on expeditions to steal horses; + a species of service among the Indians which takes precedence of hunting, + and is considered a department of honorable warfare. + </p> + <p> + While the leaders of the expedition were actively engaged in preparing for + the approaching journey, those who had accompanied it for curiosity or + amusement, found ample matter for observation in the village and its + inhabitants. Wherever they went they were kindly entertained. If they + entered a lodge, the buffalo robe was spread before the fire for them to + sit down; the pipe was brought, and while the master of the lodge + conversed with his guests, the squaw put the earthen vessel over the fire + well filled with dried buffalo-meat and pounded corn; for the Indian in + his native state, before he has mingled much with white men, and acquired + their sordid habits, has the hospitality of the Arab: never does a + stranger enter his door without having food placed before him; and never + is the food thus furnished made a matter of traffic. + </p> + <p> + The life of an Indian when at home in his village is a life of indolence + and amusement. To the woman is consigned the labors of the household and + the field; she arranges the lodge; brings wood for the fire; cooks; jerks + venison and buffalo meat; dresses the skins of the animals killed in the + chase; cultivates the little patch of maize, pumpkins, and pulse, which + furnishes a great part of their provisions. Their time for repose and + recreation is at sunset, when the labors of the day being ended, they + gather together to amuse themselves with petty games, or to hold gossiping + convocations on the tops of their lodges. + </p> + <p> + As to the Indian, he is a game animal, not to be degraded by useful or + menial toil. It is enough that he exposes himself to the hardships of the + chase and the perils of war; that he brings home food for his family, and + watches and fights for its protection. Everything else is beneath his + attention. When at home, he attends only to his weapons and his horses, + preparing the means of future exploit. Or he engages with his comrades in + games of dexterity, agility and strength; or in gambling games in which + everything is put at hazard with a recklessness seldom witnessed in + civilized life. + </p> + <p> + A great part of the idle leisure of the Indians when at home is passed in + groups, squatted together on the bank of a river, on the top of a mound on + the prairie, or on the roof of one of their earth-covered lodges, talking + over the news of the day, the affairs of the tribe, the events and + exploits of their last hunting or fighting expedition; or listening to the + stories of old times told by some veteran chronicler; resembling a group + of our village quidnuncs and politicians, listening to the prosings of + some superannuated oracle, or discussing the contents of an ancient + newspaper. + </p> + <p> + As to the Indian women, they are far from complaining of their lot. On the + contrary, they would despise their husbands could they stoop to any menial + office, and would think it conveyed an imputation upon their own conduct. + It is the worst insult one virago can cast upon another in a moment of + altercation. “Infamous woman!” will she cry, “I have seen your husband + carrying wood into his lodge to make the fire. Where was his squaw, that + he should be obliged to make a woman of himself!” + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt and his fellow-travellers had not been many days at the Arickara + village, when rumors began to circulate that the Sioux had followed them + up, and that a war party, four or five hundred in number, were lurking + somewhere in the neighborhood. These rumors produced much embarrassment in + the camp. The white hunters were deterred from venturing forth in quest of + game, neither did the leaders think it proper to expose them to such a + risk. The Arickaras, too, who had suffered greatly in their wars with this + cruel and ferocious tribe, were roused to increased vigilance, and + stationed mounted scouts upon the neighboring hills. This, however, is a + general precaution among the tribes of the prairies. Those immense plains + present a horizon like the ocean, so that any object of importance can be + descried afar, and information communicated to a great distance. The + scouts are stationed on the hills, therefore, to look out both for game + and for enemies, and are, in a manner, living telegraphs conveying their + intelligence by concerted signs. If they wish to give notice of a herd of + buffalo in the plain beyond, they gallop backwards and forwards abreast, + on the summit of the hill. If they perceive an enemy at hand, they gallop + to and fro, crossing each other; at sight of which the whole village flies + to arms. + </p> + <p> + Such an alarm was given in the afternoon of the 15th. Four scouts were + seen crossing and recrossing each other at full gallop, on the summit of a + hill about two miles distant down the river. The cry was up that the Sioux + were coming. In an instant the village was in an uproar. Men, women, and + children were all brawling and shouting; dogs barking, yelping, and + howling. Some of the warriors ran for the horses to gather and drive them + in from the prairie, some for their weapons. As fast as they could arm and + equip they sallied forth; some on horseback, some on foot. Some hastily + arrayed in their war dress, with coronets of fluttering feathers, and + their bodies smeared with paint; others naked and only furnished with the + weapons they had snatched up. The women and children gathered on the tops + of the lodges and heightened the confusion of the scene by their + vociferation. Old men who could no longer bear arms took similar stations, + and harangued the warriors as they passed, exhorting them to valorous + deeds. Some of the veterans took arms themselves, and sallied forth with + tottering steps. In this way, the savage chivalry of the village to the + number of five hundred, poured forth, helter-skelter, riding and running, + with hideous yells and war-whoops, like so many bedlamites or demoniacs + let loose. + </p> + <p> + After a while the tide of war rolled back, but with far less uproar. + Either it had been a false alarm, or the enemy had retreated on finding + themselves discovered, and quiet was restored to the village. The white + hunters continuing to be fearful of ranging this dangerous neighborhood, + fresh provisions began to be scarce in the camp. As a substitute, + therefore, for venison and buffalo meat, the travellers had to purchase a + number of dogs to be shot and cooked for the supply of the camp. + Fortunately, however chary the Indians might be of their horses, they were + liberal of their dogs. In fact, these animals swarm about an Indian + village as they do about a Turkish town. Not a family but has two or three + dozen belonging to it, of all sizes and colors; some of a superior breed + are used for hunting; others, to draw the sledge, while others, of a + mongrel breed, and idle vagabond nature, are fattened for food. They are + supposed to be descendant from the wolf, and retain something of his + savage but cowardly temper, howling rather than barking; showing their + teeth and snarling on the slightest provocation, but sneaking away on the + least attack. + </p> + <p> + The excitement of the village continued from day to day. On the day + following the alarm just mentioned, several parties arrived from different + directions, and were met and conducted by some of the braves to the + council lodge, where they reported the events and success of their + expeditions, whether of war or hunting; which news was afterwards + promulgated throughout the village, by certain old men who acted as + heralds or town criers. Among the parties which arrived was one that had + been among the Snake nation stealing horses, and returned crowned with + success. As they passed in triumph through the village they were cheered + by the men, women, and children, collected as usual on the tops of the + lodges, and were exhorted by the Nesters of the village to be generous in + their dealings with the white men. + </p> + <p> + The evening was spent in feasting and rejoicing among the relations of the + successful warriors; but the sounds of grief and wailing were heard from + the hills adjacent to the village—the lamentations of women who had + lost some relative in the foray. + </p> + <p> + An Indian village is subject to continual agitations and excitements. The + next day arrived a deputation of braves from the Cheyenne or Shienne + nation; a broken tribe, cut up, like the Arickaras, by wars with the + Sioux, and driven to take refuge among the Black Hills, near the sources + of the Cheyenne River, from which they derive their name. One of these + deputies was magnificently arrayed in a buffalo robe, on which various + figures were fancifully embroidered with split quills dyed red and yellow; + and the whole was fringed with the slender hoofs of young fawns, that + rattled as he walked. + </p> + <p> + The arrival of this deputation was the signal for another of those + ceremonials which occupy so much of Indian life; for no being is more + courtly and punctilious, and more observing of etiquette and formality + than an American savage. + </p> + <p> + The object of the deputation was to give notice of an intended visit of + the Shienne (or Cheyenne) tribe to the Arickara village in the course of + fifteen days. To this visit Mr. Hunt looked forward to procure additional + horses for his journey; all his bargaining being ineffectual in obtaining + a sufficient supply from the Arickaras. Indeed, nothing could prevail upon + the latter to part with their prime horses, which had been trained to + buffalo hunting. + </p> + <p> + As Mr. Hunt would have to abandon his boats at this place, Mr. Lisa now + offered to purchase them, and such of his merchandise as was superfluous, + and to pay him in horses to be obtained at a fort belonging to the + Missouri Fur Company, situated at the Mandan villages, about a hundred and + fifty miles further up the river. A bargain was promptly made, and Mr. + Lisa and Mr. Crooks, with several companions, set out for the fort to + procure the horses. They returned, after upwards of a fortnight’s absence, + bringing with them the stipulated number of horses. Still the cavalry was + not sufficiently numerous to convey the party and baggage and merchandise, + and a few days more were required to complete the arrangements for the + journey. + </p> + <p> + On the 9th of July, just before daybreak, a great noise and vociferation + was heard in the village. This being the usual Indian hour of attack and + surprise, and the Sioux being known to be in the neighborhood, the camp + was instantly on the alert. As the day broke Indians were descried in + considerable number on the bluffs, three or four miles down the river. The + noise and agitation in the village continued. The tops of the lodges were + crowded with the inhabitants, all earnestly looking towards the hills, and + keeping up a vehement chattering. Presently an Indian warrior galloped + past the camp towards the village, and in a little while the legions began + to pour forth. + </p> + <p> + The truth of the matter was now ascertained. The Indians upon the distant + hills were three hundred Arickara braves, returning home from a foray. + They had met the war party of Sioux who had been so long hovering about + the neighborhood, had fought them the day before, killed several, and + defeated the rest with the loss of but two or three of their own men and + about a dozen wounded; and they were now halting at a distance until their + comrades in the village should come forth to meet them, and swell the + parade of their triumphal entry. The warrior who had galloped past the + camp was the leader of the party hastening home to give tidings of his + victory. + </p> + <p> + Preparations were now made for this great martial ceremony. All the finery + and equipments of the warriors were sent forth to them, that they might + appear to the greatest advantage. Those, too, who had remained at home, + tasked their wardrobes and toilets to do honor to the procession. + </p> + <p> + The Arickaras generally go naked, but, like all savages, they have their + gala dress, of which they are not a little vain. This usually consists of + a gray surcoat and leggins of the dressed skin of the antelope, resembling + chamois leather, and embroidered with porcupine quills brilliantly dyed. A + buffalo robe is thrown over the right shoulder, and across the left is + slung a quiver of arrows. They wear gay coronets of plumes, particularly + those of the swan; but the feathers of the black eagle are considered the + most worthy, being a sacred bird among the Indian warriors. + </p> + <p> + He who has killed an enemy in his own land, is entitled to drag at his + heels a fox-skin attached to each moccasin; and he who has slain a grizzly + bear, wears a necklace of his claws, the most glorious trophy that a + hunter can exhibit. + </p> + <p> + An Indian toilet is an operation of some toil and trouble; the warrior + often has to paint himself from head to foot, and is extremely capricious + and difficult to please, as to the hideous distribution of streaks and + colors. A great part of the morning, therefore, passed away before there + were any signs of the distant pageant. In the meantime a profound + stillness reigned over the village. Most of the inhabitants had gone + forth; others remained in mute expectation. All sports and occupations + were suspended, excepting that in the lodges the painstaking squaws were + silently busied in preparing the repasts for the warriors. + </p> + <p> + It was near noon that a mingled sound of voices and rude music, faintly + heard from a distance, gave notice that the procession was on the march. + The old men and such of the squaws as could leave their employments + hastened forth to meet it. In a little while it emerged from behind a + hill, and had a wild and picturesque appearance as it came moving over the + summit in measured step, and to the cadence of songs and savage + instruments; the warlike standards and trophies flaunting aloft, and the + feathers, and paint, and silver ornaments of the warriors glaring and + glittering in the sunshine. + </p> + <p> + The pageant had really something chivalrous in its arrangement. The + Arickaras are divided into several bands, each bearing the name of some + animal or bird, as the buffalo, the bear, the dog, the pheasant. The + present party consisted of four of these bands, one of which was the dog, + the most esteemed in war, being composed of young men under thirty, and + noted for prowess. It is engaged in the most desperate occasions. The + bands marched in separate bodies under their several leaders. The warriors + on foot came first, in platoons of ten or twelve abreast; then the + horsemen. Each band bore as an ensign a spear or bow decorated with beads, + porcupine quills, and painted feathers. Each bore its trophies of scalps, + elevated on poles, their long black locks streaming in the wind. Each was + accompanied by its rude music and minstrelsy. In this way the procession + extended nearly a quarter of a mile. The warriors were variously armed, + some few with guns, others with bows and arrows, and war clubs; all had + shields of buffalo hide, a kind of defense generally used by the Indians + of the open prairies, who have not the covert of trees and forests to + protect them. They were painted in the most savage style. Some had the + stamp of a red hand across their mouths, a sign that they had drunk the + life-blood of a foe! + </p> + <p> + As they drew near to the village the old men and the women began to meet + them, and now a scene ensued that proved the fallacy of the old fable of + Indian apathy and stoicism. Parents and children, husbands and wives, + brothers and sisters met with the most rapturous expressions of joy; while + wailings and lamentations were heard from the relatives of the killed and + wounded. The procession, however, continued on with slow and measured + step, in cadence to the solemn chant, and the warriors maintained their + fixed and stern demeanor. + </p> + <p> + Between two of the principal chiefs rode a young warrior who had + distinguished himself in the battle. He was severely wounded, so as with + difficulty to keep on his horse; but he preserved a serene and steadfast + countenance, as if perfectly unharmed. His mother had heard of his + condition. She broke through the throng, and rushing up, threw her arms + around him and wept aloud. He kept up the spirit and demeanor of a warrior + to the last, but expired shortly after he had reached his home. + </p> + <p> + The village was now a scene of the utmost festivity and triumph. The + banners, and trophies, and scalps, and painted shields were elevated on + poles near the lodges. There were warfeasts, and scalp-dances, with + warlike songs and savage music; all the inhabitants were arrayed in their + festal dresses; while the old heralds went round from lodge to lodge, + promulgating with loud voices the events of the battle and the exploits of + the various warriors. + </p> + <p> + Such was the boisterous revelry of the village; but sounds of another kind + were heard on the surrounding hills; piteous wailings of the women, who + had retired thither to mourn in darkness and solitude for those who had + fallen in battle. There the poor mother of the youthful warrior who had + returned home in triumph but to die, gave full vent to the anguish of a + mother’s heart. How much does this custom among the Indian woman of + repairing to the hilltops in the night, and pouring forth their wailings + for the dead, call to mind the beautiful and affecting passage of + Scripture, “In Rama was there a voice heard, lamentation, and weeping, and + great mourning, Rachel weeping for her children, and would not be + comforted, because they are not.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Wilderness of the Far West.—Great American Desert—Parched + Seasons.—Black Hills.—Rocky Mountains.—Wandering and + Predatory Hordes.—Speculations on What May Be the Future + Population.—Apprehended Dangers.-A Plot to Desert.—Rose the + Interpreter.—His Sinister Character—Departure From the + Arickara Village. +</pre> + <p> + WHILE Mr. Hunt was diligently preparing for his arduous journey, some of + his men began to lose heart at the perilous prospect before them; but + before we accuse them of want of spirit, it is proper to consider the + nature of the wilderness into which they were about to adventure. It was a + region almost as vast and trackless as the ocean, and, at the time of + which we treat, but little known, excepting through the vague accounts of + Indian hunters. A part of their route would lay across an immense tract, + stretching north and south for hundreds of miles along the foot of the + Rocky Mountains, and drained by the tributary streams of the Missouri and + the Mississippi. This region, which resembles one of the immeasurable + steppes of Asia, has not inaptly been termed “the great American desert.” + It spreads forth into undulating and treeless plains, and desolate sandy + wastes wearisome to the eye from their extent and monotony, and which are + supposed by geologists to have formed the ancient floor of the ocean, + countless ages since, when its primeval waves beat against the granite + bases of the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + It is a land where no man permanently abides; for, in certain seasons of + the year there is no food either for the hunter or his steed. The herbage + is parched and withered; the brooks and streams are dried up; the buffalo, + the elk and the deer have wandered to distant parts, keeping within the + verge of expiring verdure, and leaving behind them a vast uninhabited + solitude, seamed by ravines, the beds of former torrents, but now serving + only to tantalize and increase the thirst of the traveller. + </p> + <p> + Occasionally the monotony of this vast wilderness is interrupted by + mountainous belts of sand and limestone, broken into confused masses; with + precipitous cliffs and yawning ravines, looking like the ruins of a world; + or is traversed by lofty and barren ridges of rock, almost impassable, + like those denominated the Black Hills. Beyond these rise the stern + barriers of the Rocky Mountains, the limits, as it were, of the Atlantic + world. The rugged defiles and deep valleys of this vast chain form + sheltering places for restless and ferocious bands of savages, many of + them the remnants of tribes, once inhabitants of the prairies, but broken + up by war and violence, and who carry into their mountain haunts the + fierce passions and reckless habits of desperadoes. + </p> + <p> + Such is the nature of this immense wilderness of the far West; which + apparently defies cultivation, and the habitation of civilized life. Some + portions of it along the rivers may partially be subdued by agriculture, + others may form vast pastoral tracts, like those of the East; but it is to + be feared that a great part of it will form a lawless interval between the + abodes of civilized man, like the wastes of the ocean or the deserts of + Arabia; and, like them, be subject to the depredations of the marauder. + Here may spring up new and mongrel races, like new formations in geology, + the amalgamation of the “debris” and “abrasions” of former races, + civilized and savage; the remains of broken and almost extinguished + tribes; the descendants of wandering hunters and trappers; of fugitives + from the Spanish and American frontiers; of adventurers and desperadoes of + every class and country, yearly ejected from the bosom of society into the + wilderness. We are contributing incessantly to swell this singular and + heterogeneous cloud of wild population that is to hang about our frontier, + by the transfer of whole tribes from the east of the Mississippi to the + great wastes of the far West. Many of these bear with them the smart of + real or fancied injuries; many consider themselves expatriated beings, + wrongfully exiled from their hereditary homes, and the sepulchres of their + fathers, and cherish a deep and abiding animosity against the race that + has dispossessed them. Some may gradually become pastoral hordes, like + those rude and migratory people, half shepherd, half warrior, who, with + their flocks and herds, roam the plains of upper Asia; but others, it is + to be apprehended, will become predatory bands, mounted on the fleet + steeds of the prairies, with the open plains for their marauding grounds, + and the mountains for their retreats and lurking-places. Here they may + resemble those great hordes of the North, “Gog and Magog with their + bands,” that haunted the gloomy imaginations of the prophets. “A great + company and a mighty host, all riding upon horses, and warring upon those + nations which were at rest, and dwelt peaceably, and had gotten cattle and + goods.” + </p> + <p> + The Spaniards changed the whole character and habits of the Indians when + they brought the horse among them. In Chili, Tucuman, and other parts, it + has converted them, we are told, into Tartar-like tribes, and enabled them + to keep the Spaniards out of their country, and even to make it dangerous + for them to venture far from their towns and settlements. Are we not in + danger of producing some such state of things in the boundless regions of + the far West? That these are not mere fanciful and extravagant suggestions + we have sufficient proofs in the dangers already experienced by the + traders to the Spanish mart of Santa Fe, and to the distant posts of the + fur companies. These are obliged to proceed in armed caravans, and are + subject to murderous attacks from bands of Pawnees, Camanches, and + Blackfeet, that come scouring upon them in their weary march across the + plains, or lie in wait for them among the passes of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + We are wandering, however, into excursive speculations, when our intention + was merely to give an idea of the nature of the wilderness which Mr. Hunt + was about to traverse; and which at that time was far less known than at + present; though it still remains in a great measure an unknown land. We + cannot be surprised, therefore, that some of the resolute of his party + should feel dismay at the thoughts of adventuring into this perilous + wilderness under the uncertain guidance of three hunters, who had merely + passed once through the country and might have forgotten the landmarks. + Their apprehensions were aggravated by some of Lisa’s followers, who, not + being engaged in the expedition, took a mischievous pleasure in + exaggerating its dangers. They painted in strong colors, to the poor + Canadian voyageurs, the risk they would run of perishing with hunger and + thirst; of being cut off by war-parties of the Sioux who scoured the + plains; of having their horses stolen by the Upsarokas or Crows, who + infested the skirts of the Rocky Mountains; or of being butchered by the + Blackfeet, who lurked among the defiles. In a word, there was little + chance of their getting alive across the mountains; and even if they did, + those three guides knew nothing of the howling wilderness that lay beyond. + </p> + <p> + The apprehensions thus awakened in the minds of some of the men came + well-nigh proving detrimental to the expedition. Some of them determined + to desert, and to make their way back to St. Louis. They accordingly + purloined several weapons and a barrel of gunpowder, as ammunition for + their enterprise, and buried them in the river bank, intending to seize + one of the boats, and make off in the night. Fortunately their plot was + overheard by John Day, the Kentuckian, and communicated to the partners, + who took quiet and effectual means to frustrate it. + </p> + <p> + The dangers to be apprehended from the Crow Indians had not been overrated + by the camp gossips. These savages, through whose mountain haunts the + party would have to pass, were noted for daring and excursive habits, and + great dexterity in horse stealing. Mr. Hunt, therefore, considered himself + fortunate in having met with a man who might be of great use to him in any + intercourse he might have with the tribe. This was a wandering individual + named Edward Rose, whom he had picked up somewhere on the Missouri—one + of those anomalous beings found on the frontier, who seem to have neither + kin nor country. He had lived some time among the Crows, so as to become + acquainted with their language and customs; and was, withal, a dogged, + sullen, silent fellow, with a sinister aspect, and more of the savage than + the civilized man in his appearance. He was engaged to serve in general as + a hunter, but as guide and interpreter when they should reach the country + of the Crows. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th of July, Mr. Hunt took up his line of march by land from the + Arickara village, leaving Mr. Lisa and Mr. Nuttall there, where they + intended to await the expected arrival of Mr. Henry from the Rocky + Mountains. As to Messrs. Bradbury and Breckenridge, they had departed some + days previously, on a voyage down the river to St. Louis, with a + detachment from Mr. Lisa’s party. With all his exertions, Mr. Hunt had + been unable to obtain a sufficient number of horses for the accommodation + of all his people. His cavalcade consisted of eighty-two horses, most of + them heavily laden with Indian goods, beaver traps, ammunition, Indian + corn, corn meal and other necessaries. Each of the partners was mounted, + and a horse was allotted to the interpreter, Pierre Dorion, for the + transportation of his luggage and his two children. His squaw, for the + most part of the time, trudged on foot, like the residue of the party; nor + did any of the men show more patience and fortitude than this resolute + woman in enduring fatigue and hardship. + </p> + <p> + The veteran trappers and voyageurs of Lisa’s party shook their heads as + their comrades set out, and took leave of them as of doomed men; and even + Lisa himself gave it as his opinion, after the travellers had departed, + they would never reach the shores of the Pacific, but would either perish + with hunger in the wilderness, or be cut off by the savages. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Summer Weather of the Prairies.—Purity of the Atmosphere— + Canadians on the March.—Sickness in the Camp.—Big River.— + Vulgar Nomenclature.—Suggestions About the Original Indian + Names.—Camp of Cheyennes.—Trade for Horses.—Character of + the Cheyennes.—Their Horsemanship.—Historical Anecdotes of + the Tribe. +</pre> + <p> + THE course taken by Mr. Hunt was at first to the northwest, but soon + turned and kept generally to the southwest, to avoid the country infested + by the Blackfeet. His route took him across some of the tributary streams + of the Missouri, and over immense prairies, bounded only by the horizon, + and destitute of trees. It was now the height of summer, and these naked + plains would be intolerable to the traveller were it not for the breezes + which swept over them during the fervor of the day, bringing with them + tempering airs from the distant mountains. To the prevalence of these + breezes, and to the want of all leafy covert, may we also attribute the + freedom from those flies and other insects so tormenting to man and beast + during the summer months, in the lower plains, which are bordered and + interspersed with woodland. + </p> + <p> + The monotony of these immense landscapes, also, would be as wearisome as + that of the ocean, were it not relieved in some degree by the purity and + elasticity of the atmosphere, and the beauty of the heavens. The sky has + that delicious blue for which the sky of Italy is renowned; the sun shines + with a splendor unobscured by any cloud or vapor, and a starlight night on + the prairies is glorious. This purity and elasticity of atmosphere + increases as the traveller approaches the mountains and gradually rises + into more elevated prairies. + </p> + <p> + On the second day of the journey, Mr. Hunt arranged the party into small + and convenient messes, distributing among them the camp kettles. The + encampments at night were as before; some sleeping under tents, and others + bivouacking in the open air. The Canadians proved as patient of toll and + hardship on the land as on the water; indeed, nothing could surpass the + patience and good-humor of these men upon the march. They were the + cheerful drudges of the party, loading and unloading the horses, pitching + the tents, making the fires, cooking; in short, performing all those + household and menial offices which the Indians usually assign to the + squaws; and, like the squaws, they left all the hunting and fighting to + others. A Canadian has but little affection for the exercise of the rifle. + </p> + <p> + The progress of the party was but slow for the first few days. Some of the + men were indisposed; Mr. Crooks, especially, was so unwell that he could + not keep on his horse. A rude kind of litter was, therefore, prepared for + him, consisting of two long poles, fixed, one on each side of two horses, + with a matting between them, on which he reclined at full length, and was + protected from the sun by a canopy of boughs. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 23d (July) they encamped on the banks of what they + term Big River; and here we cannot but pause to lament the stupid, + commonplace, and often ribald names entailed upon the rivers and other + features of the great West, by traders and settlers. As the aboriginal + tribes of these magnificent regions are yet in existence, the Indian names + might easily be recovered; which, besides being in general more sonorous + and musical, would remain mementoes of the primitive lords of the soil, of + whom in a little while scarce any traces will be left. Indeed, it is to be + wished that the whole of our country could be rescued, as much as + possible, from the wretched nomenclature inflicted upon it, by ignorant + and vulgar minds; and this might be done, in a great degree, by restoring + the Indian names, wherever significant and euphonious. As there appears to + be a spirit of research abroad in respect to our aboriginal antiquities, + we would suggest, as a worthy object of enterprise, a map, or maps, of + every part of our country, giving the Indian names wherever they could be + ascertained. Whoever achieves such an object worthily, will leave a + monument to his own reputation. + </p> + <p> + To return from this digression. As the travellers were now in a country + abounding with buffalo, they remained for several days encamped upon the + banks of Big River, to obtain a supply of provisions, and to give the + invalids time to recruit. + </p> + <p> + On the second day of their sojourn, as Ben Jones, John Day, and others of + the hunters were in pursuit of game, they came upon an Indian camp on the + open prairie, near to a small stream which ran through a ravine. The tents + or lodges were of dressed buffalo skins, sewn together and stretched on + tapering pine poles, joined at top, but radiating at bottom, so as to form + a circle capable of admitting fifty persons. Numbers of horses were + grazing in the neighborhood of the camp, or straying at large in the + prairie; a sight most acceptable to the hunters. After reconnoitering the + camp for some time, they ascertained it to belong to a band of Cheyenne + Indians, the same that had sent a deputation to the Arickaras. They + received the hunters in the most friendly manner; invited them to their + lodges, which were more cleanly than Indian lodges are prone to be, and + set food before them with true uncivilized hospitality. Several of them + accompanied the hunters back to the camp, when a trade was immediately + opened. The Cheyennes were astonished and delighted to find a convoy of + goods and trinkets thus brought into the very heart of the prairie; while + Mr. Hunt and his companions were overjoyed to have an opportunity of + obtaining a further supply of horses from these equestrian savages. + </p> + <p> + During a fortnight that the travellers lingered at this place, their + encampment was continually thronged by the Cheyennes. They were a civil, + well-behaved people, cleanly in their persons, and decorous in their + habits. The men were tall, straight and vigorous, with aquiline noses, and + high cheek bones. Some were almost as naked as ancient statues, and might + have stood as models for a statuary; others had leggins and moccasins of + deer skin, and buffalo robes, which they threw gracefully over their + shoulders. In a little while, however, they began to appear in more + gorgeous array, tricked out in the finery obtained from the white men; + bright cloths, brass rings, beads of various colors; and happy was he who + could render himself hideous with vermilion. + </p> + <p> + The travellers had frequent occasions to admire the skill and grace with + which these Indians managed their horses. Some of them made a striking + display when mounted; themselves and their steeds decorated in gala style; + for the Indians often bestow more finery upon their horses than upon + themselves. Some would hang around the necks, or rather on the breasts of + their horses, the most precious ornaments they had obtained from the white + men; others interwove feathers in their manes and tails. The Indian + horses, too, appear to have an attachment to their wild riders, and + indeed, it is said that the horses of the prairies readily distinguish an + Indian from a white man by the smell, and give a preference to the former. + Yet the Indians, in general, are hard riders, and, however they may value + their horses, treat them with great roughness and neglect. Occasionally + the Cheyennes joined the white hunters in pursuit of the elk and buffalo; + and when in the ardor of the chase, spared neither themselves nor their + steeds, scouring the prairies at full speed, and plunging down precipices + and frightful ravines that threatened the necks of both horse and + horseman. The Indian steed, well trained to the chase, seems as mad as the + rider, and pursues the game as eagerly as if it were his natural prey, on + the flesh of which he was to banquet. + </p> + <p> + The history of the Cheyennes is that of many of those wandering tribes of + the prairies. They were the remnant of a once powerful people called the + Shaways, inhabiting a branch of the Red River which flows into Lake + Winnipeg. Every Indian tribe has some rival tribe with which it wages + implacable hostility. The deadly enemies of the Shaways were the Sioux, + who, after a long course of warfare, proved too powerful for them, and + drove them across the Missouri. They again took root near the Warricanne + Creek, and established themselves there in a fortified village. + </p> + <p> + The Sioux still followed with deadly animosity; dislodged them from their + village, and compelled them to take refuge in the Black Hills, near the + upper waters of the Sheyenne or Cheyenne River. Here they lost even their + name, and became known among the French colonists by that of the river + they frequented. + </p> + <p> + The heart of the tribe was now broken; its numbers were greatly thinned by + their harassing wars. They no longer attempted to establish themselves in + any permanent abode that might be an object of attack to their cruel foes. + They gave up the cultivation of the fruits of the earth, and became a + wandering tribe, subsisting by the chase, and following the buffalo in its + migrations. + </p> + <p> + Their only possessions were horses, which they caught on the prairies, or + reared, or captured on predatory incursions into the Mexican territories, + as has already been mentioned. With some of these they repaired once a + year to the Arickara villages, exchanged them for corn, beans, pumpkins, + and articles of European merchandise, and then returned into the heart of + the prairies. + </p> + <p> + Such are the fluctuating fortunes of these savage nations. War, famine, + pestilence, together or singly, bring down their strength and thin their + numbers. Whole tribes are rooted up from their native places, wander for a + time about these immense regions, become amalgamated with other tribes, or + disappear from the face of the earth. There appears to be a tendency to + extinction among all the savage nations; and this tendency would seem to + have been in operation among the aboriginals of this country long before + the advent of the white men, if we may judge from the traces and + traditions of ancient populousness in regions which were silent and + deserted at the time of the discovery; and from the mysterious and + perplexing vestiges of unknown races, predecessors of those found in + actual possession, and who must long since have become gradually + extinguished or been destroyed. The whole history of the aboriginal + population of this country, however, is an enigma, and a grand one—will + it ever be solved? + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + New Distribution of Horses—Secret Information of Treason in + the Camp.—Rose the Interpreter—His Perfidious Character— + His Plots.—Anecdotes of the Crow Indians.—Notorious Horse + Stealers.—Some Account of Rose.—A Desperado of the + Frontier. +</pre> + <p> + ON the sixth of August the travellers bade farewell to the friendly band + of Cheyennes, and resumed their journey. As they had obtained thirty-six + additional horses by their recent traffic, Mr. Hunt made a new + arrangement. The baggage was made up in smaller loads. A horse was + allotted to each of the six prime hunters, and others were distributed + among the voyageurs, a horse for every two, so that they could ride and + walk alternately. Mr. Crooks being still too feeble to mount the saddle, + was carried on a litter. + </p> + <p> + Their march this day lay among singular hills and knolls of an indurated + red earth, resembling brick, about the bases of which were scattered + pumice stones and cinders, the whole bearing traces of the action of fire. + In the evening they encamped on a branch of Big River. + </p> + <p> + They were now out of the tract of country infested by the Sioux, and had + advanced such a distance into the interior that Mr. Hunt no longer felt + apprehensive of the desertion of any of his men. He was doomed, however, + to experience new cause of anxiety. As he was seated in his tent after + nightfall, one of the men came to him privately, and informed him that + there was mischief brewing in the camp. Edward Rose, the interpreter, + whose sinister looks we have already mentioned, was denounced by this + secret informer as a designing, treacherous scoundrel, who was tampering + with the fidelity of certain of the men, and instigating them to a + flagrant piece of treason. In the course of a few days they would arrive + at the mountainous district infested by the Upsarokas or Crows, the tribe + among which Rose was to officiate as interpreter. His plan was that + several of the men should join with him, when in that neighborhood, in + carrying off a number of the horses with their packages of goods, and + deserting to those savages. He assured them of good treatment among the + Crows, the principal chiefs and warriors of whom he knew; they would soon + become great men among them, and have the finest women, and the daughters + of the chiefs for wives; and the horses and goods they carried off would + make them rich for life. + </p> + <p> + The intelligence of this treachery on the part of Rose gave much disquiet + to Mr. Hunt, for he knew not how far it might be effective among his men. + He had already had proofs that several of them were disaffected to the + enterprise, and loath to cross the mountains. He knew also that savage + life had charms for many of them, especially the Canadians, who were prone + to intermarry and domesticate themselves among the Indians. + </p> + <p> + And here a word or two concerning the Crows may be of service to the + reader, as they will figure occasionally in the succeeding narration. + </p> + <p> + The tribe consists of four bands, which have their nestling-places in + fertile, well-wooded valleys, lying among the Rocky Mountains, and watered + by the Big Horse River and its tributary streams; but, though these are + properly their homes, where they shelter their old people, their wives, + and their children, the men of the tribe are almost continually on the + foray and the scamper. They are, in fact, notorious marauders and + horse-stealers; crossing and re-crossing the mountains, robbing on the one + side, and conveying their spoils to the other. Hence, we are told, is + derived their name, given to them on account of their unsettled and + predatory habits; winging their flight, like the crows, from one side of + the mountains to the other, and making free booty of everything that lies + in their way. Horses, however, are the especial objects of their + depredations, and their skill and audacity in stealing them are said to be + astonishing. This is their glory and delight; an accomplished + horse-stealer fills up their idea of a hero. Many horses are obtained by + them, also, in barter from tribes in and beyond the mountains. They have + an absolute passion for this noble animal; besides which he is with them + an important object of traffic. Once a year they make a visit to the + Mandans, Minatarees, and other tribes of the Missouri, taking with them + droves of horses which they exchange for guns, ammunition, trinkets, + vermilion, cloths of bright colors, and various other articles of European + manufacture. With these they supply their own wants and caprices, and + carry on the internal trade for horses already mentioned. + </p> + <p> + The plot of Rose to rob and abandon his countrymen when in the heart of + the wilderness, and to throw himself into the hands of savages, may appear + strange and improbable to those unacquainted with the singular and + anomalous characters that are to be found about the borders. This fellow, + it appears, was one of those desperadoes of the frontiers, outlawed by + their crimes, who combine the vices of civilized and savage life, and are + ten times more barbarous than the Indians with whom they consort. Rose had + formerly belonged to one of the gangs of pirates who infested the islands + of the Mississippi, plundering boats as they went up and down the river, + and who sometimes shifted the scene of their robberies to the shore, + waylaying travellers as they returned by land from New Orleans with the + proceeds of their downward voyage, plundering them of their money and + effects, and often perpetrating the most atrocious murders. + </p> + <p> + These hordes of villains being broken up and dispersed, Rose had betaken + himself to the wilderness, and associated himself with the Crows, whose + predatory habits were congenial with his own, had married a woman of the + tribe, and, in short, had identified himself with those vagrant savages. + </p> + <p> + Such was the worthy guide and interpreter, Edward Rose. We give his story, + however, not as it was known to Mr. Hunt and his companions at the time, + but as it has been subsequently ascertained. Enough was known of the + fellow and his dark and perfidious character to put Mr. Hunt upon his + guard: still, as there was no knowing how far his plans might have + succeeded, and as any rash act might blow the mere smouldering sparks of + treason into a sudden blaze, it was thought advisable by those with whom + Mr. Hunt consulted, to conceal all knowledge or suspicion of the meditated + treachery, but to keep up a vigilant watch upon the movements of Rose, and + a strict guard upon the horses at night. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Substitute for Fuel on the Prairies.—Fossil Trees.— + Fierceness of the Buffaloes When in Heat.—Three Hunters + Missing.—Signal Fires and Smokes.—Uneasiness Concerning + the Lost Men.—A Plan to Forestall a Rogue.—New Arrangement + With Rose.—Return of the Wanderers. +</pre> + <p> + THE plains over which the travellers were journeying continued to be + destitute of trees or even shrubs; insomuch that they had to use the dung + of the buffalo for fuel, as the Arabs of the desert use that of the camel. + This substitute for fuel is universal among the Indians of these upper + prairies, and is said to make a fire equal to that of turf. If a few chips + are added, it throws out a cheerful and kindly blaze. + </p> + <p> + These plains, however, had not always been equally destitute of wood, as + was evident from the trunks of the trees which the travellers repeatedly + met with, some still standing, others lying about in broken fragments, but + all in a fossil state, having flourished in times long past. In these + singular remains, the original grain of the wood was still so distinct + that they could be ascertained to be the ruins of oak trees. Several + pieces of the fossil wood were selected by the men to serve as whetstones. + </p> + <p> + In this part of the journey there was no lack of provisions, for the + prairies were covered with immense herds of buffalo. These, in general, + are animals of peaceful demeanor, grazing quietly like domestic cattle; + but this was the season when they are in heat, and when the bulls are + usually fierce and pugnacious. There was accordingly a universal + restlessness and commotion throughout the plain; and the amorous herds + gave utterance to their feelings in low bellowings that resounded like + distant thunder. Here and there fierce duellos took place between rival + enamorados; butting their huge shagged fronts together, goring each other + with their short black horns, and tearing up the earth with their feet in + perfect fury. + </p> + <p> + In one of the evening halts, Pierre Dorion, the interpreter, together with + Carson and Gardpie, two of the hunters, were missing, nor had they + returned by morning. As it was supposed they had wandered away in pursuit + of buffalo, and would readily find the track of the party, no solicitude + was felt on their account. A fire was left burning, to guide them by its + column of smoke, and the travellers proceeded on their march. In the + evening a signal fire was made on a hill adjacent to the camp, and in the + morning it was replenished with fuel so as to last throughout the day. + These signals are usual among the Indians, to give warnings to each other, + or to call home straggling hunters; and such is the transparency of the + atmosphere in those elevated plains, that a slight column of smoke can be + discerned from a great distance, particularly in the evenings. Two or + three days elapsed, however, without the reappearance of the three + hunters; and Mr. Hunt slackened his march to give them time to overtake + him. + </p> + <p> + A vigilant watch continued to be kept upon the movements of Rose, and of + such of the men as were considered doubtful in their loyalty; but nothing + occurred to excite immediate apprehensions. Rose evidently was not a + favorite among his comrades, and it was hoped that he had not been able to + make any real partisans. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of August they encamped among hills, on the highest peak of + which Mr. Hunt caused a huge pyre of pine wood to be made, which soon sent + up a great column of flame that might be seen far and wide over the + prairies. This fire blazed all night, and was amply replenished at + daybreak; so that the towering pillar of smoke could not but be descried + by the wanderers if within the distance of a day’s journey. + </p> + <p> + It is a common occurrence in these regions, where the features of the + country so much resemble each other, for hunters to lose themselves and + wander for many days, before they can find their way back to the main body + of their party. In the present instance, however, a more than common + solicitude was felt, in consequence of the distrust awakened by the + sinister designs of Rose. + </p> + <p> + The route now became excessively toilsome, over a ridge of steep rocky + hills, covered with loose stones. These were intersected by deep valleys, + formed by two branches of Big River, coming from the south of west, both + of which they crossed. These streams were bordered by meadows, well + stocked with buffaloes. Loads of meat were brought in by the hunters; but + the travellers were rendered dainty by profusion, and would cook only the + choice pieces. + </p> + <p> + They had now travelled for several days at a very slow rate, and had made + signal-fires and left traces of their route at every stage, yet nothing + was heard or seen of the lost men. It began to be feared that they might + have fallen into the hands of some lurking band of savages. A party + numerous as that of Mr. Hunt, with a long train of pack horses, moving + across plains or naked hills, is discoverable at a great distance by + Indian scouts, who spread the intelligence rapidly to various points, and + assemble their friends to hang about the skirts of the travellers, steal + their horses, or cut off any stragglers from the main body. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt and his companions were more and more sensible how much it would + be in the power of this sullen and daring vagabond Rose, to do them + mischief, when they should become entangled in the defiles of the + mountains, with the passes of which they were wholly unacquainted, and + which were infested by his freebooting friends, the Crows. There, should + he succeed in seducing some of the party into his plans, he might carry + off the best horses and effects, throw himself among his savage allies, + and set all pursuit at defiance. Mr. Hunt resolved, therefore, to + frustrate the knave, divert him, by management, from his plans, and make + it sufficiently advantageous for him to remain honest. + </p> + <p> + He took occasion, accordingly, in the course of conversation, to inform + Rose that, having engaged him chiefly as a guide and interpreter through + the country of the Crows, they would not stand in need of his services + beyond. Knowing, therefore, his connection by marriage with that tribe, + and his predilection for a residence among them, they would put no + restraint upon his will, but, whenever they met with a party of that + people, would leave him at liberty to remain among his adopted brethren. + Furthermore, that, in thus parting with him, they would pay him a half a + year’s wages in consideration of his past services, and would give him a + horse, three beaver traps, and sundry other articles calculated to set him + up in the world. + </p> + <p> + This unexpected liberality, which made it nearly as profitable and + infinitely less hazardous for Rose to remain honest than to play the + rogue, completely disarmed him. From that time his whole deportment + underwent a change. His brow cleared up and appeared more cheerful; he + left off his sullen, skulking habits, and made no further attempts to + tamper with the faith of his comrades. + </p> + <p> + On the 13th of August Mr. Hunt varied his course, and inclined westward, + in hopes of falling in with the three lost hunters; who, it was now + thought, might have kept to the right hand of Big River. This course soon + brought him to a fork of the Little Missouri, about a hundred yards wide, + and resembling the great river of the same name in the strength of its + current, its turbid water, and the frequency of drift-wood and sunken + trees. + </p> + <p> + Rugged mountains appeared ahead, crowding down to the water edge, and + offering a barrier to further progress on the side they were ascending. + Crossing the river, therefore, they encamped on its northwest bank, where + they found good pasturage and buffalo in abundance. The weather was + overcast and rainy, and a general gloom pervaded the camp; the voyageurs + sat smoking in groups, with their shoulders as high as their heads, + croaking their foreboding, when suddenly towards evening a shout of joy + gave notice that the lost men were found. They came slowly lagging into + camp, with weary looks, and horses jaded and wayworn. They had, in fact, + been for several days incessantly on the move. In their hunting excursion + on the prairies they had pushed so far in pursuit of buffalo, as to find + it impossible to retrace their steps over plains trampled by innumerable + herds; and were baffled by the monotony of the landscape in their attempts + to recall landmarks. They had ridden to and fro until they had almost lost + the points of the compass, and became totally bewildered; nor did they + ever perceive any of the signal fires and columns of smoke made by their + comrades. At length, about two days previously, when almost spent by + anxiety and hard riding, they came, to their great joy, upon the “trail” + of the party, which they had since followed up steadily. + </p> + <p> + Those only who have experienced the warm cordiality that grows up between + comrades in wild and adventurous expeditions of the kind, can picture to + themselves the hearty cheering with which the stragglers were welcomed to + the camp. Every one crowded round them to ask questions, and to hear the + story of their mishaps; and even the squaw of the moody half-breed, Pierre + Dorion, forgot the sternness of his domestic rule, and the conjugal + discipline of the cudgel, in her joy at his safe return. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Black Mountains.—Haunts of Predatory Indians.—Their + Wild and Broken Appearance.—Superstitions Concerning Them— + Thunder Spirits.—Singular Noises in the Mountains—Secret + Mines.-Hidden Treasures.—Mountains in Labor.—Scientific + Explanation.-Impassable Defiles.—Black-Tailed Deer.-The + Bighorn or Ahsahta.-Prospect From a Lofty Height.—Plain + With Herds of Buffalo.-Distant Peaks of the Rocky + Mountains.—Alarms in the Camp.-Tracks of Grizzly Bears.— + Dangerous Nature of This Animal.-Adventures of William + Cannon and John Day With Grizzly Bears. +</pre> + <p> + MR. Hunt and his party were now on the skirts of the Black Hills, or Black + Mountains, as they are sometimes called; an extensive chain, lying about a + hundred miles east of the Rocky Mountains, and stretching in a northeast + direction from the south fork of the Nebraska, or Platte River, to the + great north bend of the Missouri. The Sierra or ridge of the Black Hills, + in fact, forms the dividing line between the waters of the Missouri and + those of the Arkansas and the Mississippi, and gives rise to the Cheyenne, + the Little Missouri, and several tributary streams of the Yellowstone. + </p> + <p> + The wild recesses of these hills, like those of the Rocky Mountains, are + retreats and lurking-places for broken and predatory tribes, and it was + among them that the remnants of the Cheyenne tribe took refuge, as has + been stated, from their conquering enemies, the Sioux. + </p> + <p> + The Black Hills are chiefly composed of sandstone, and in many places are + broken into savage cliffs and precipices, and present the most singular + and fantastic forms; sometimes resembling towns and castellated + fortresses. The ignorant inhabitants of plains are prone to clothe the + mountains that bound their horizon with fanciful and superstitious + attributes. Thus the wandering tribes of the prairies, who often behold + clouds gathering round the summits of these hills, and lightning flashing, + and thunder pealing from them, when all the neighboring plains are serene + and sunny, consider them the abode of the genii or thunder-spirits who + fabricate storms and tempests. On entering their defiles, therefore, they + often hang offerings on the trees, or place them on the rocks, to + propitiate the invisible “lords of the mountains,” and procure good + weather and successful hunting; and they attach unusual significance to + the echoes which haunt the precipices. This superstition may also have + arisen, in part, from a natural phenomenon of a singular nature. In the + most calm and serene weather, and at all times of the day or night, + successive reports are now and then heard among these mountains, + resembling the discharge of several pieces of artillery. Similar reports + were heard by Messrs. Lewis and Clarke in the Rocky Mountains, which they + say were attributed by the Indians to the bursting of the rich mines of + silver contained in the bosom of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + In fact, these singular explosions have received fanciful explanations + from learned men, and have not been satisfactorily accounted for even by + philosophers. They are said to occur frequently in Brazil. Vasconcelles, + Jesuit father, describes one which he heard in the Sierra, or mountain + region of Piratininga, and which he compares to the discharges of a park + of artillery. The Indians told him that it was an explosion of stones. The + worthy father had soon a satisfactory proof of the truth of their + information, for the very place was found where a rock had burst and + exploded from its entrails a stony mass, like a bomb-shell, and of the + size of a bull’s heart. This mass was broken either in its ejection or its + fall, and wonderful was the internal organization revealed. It had a shell + harder even than iron; within which were arranged, like the seeds of a + pomegranate, jewels of various colors; some transparent as crystals; + others of a fine red, and others of mixed hues. The same phenomenon is + said to occur occasionally in the adjacent province of Guayra, where + stones of the bigness of a man’s hand are exploded, with a loud noise, + from the bosom of the earth, and scatter about glittering and beautiful + fragments that look like precious gems, but are of no value. + </p> + <p> + The Indians of the Orellanna, also, tell of horrible noises heard + occasionally in the Paraguaxo, which they consider the throes and groans + of the mountains, endeavoring to cast forth the precious stones hidden + within its entrails. Others have endeavored to account for these + discharges of “mountain artillery” on humbler principles; attributing them + to the loud reports made by the disruption and fall of great masses of + rock, reverberated and prolonged by the echoes; others, to the + disengagement of hydrogen, produced by subterraneous beds of coal in a + state of ignition. In whatever way this singular phenomenon may be + accounted for, the existence of it appears to be well established. It + remains one of the lingering mysteries of nature which throw something of + a supernatural charm over her wild mountain solitudes; and we doubt + whether the imaginative reader will not rather join with the poor Indian + in attributing it to the thunderspirits, or the guardian genii of unseen + treasures, than to any commonplace physical cause. + </p> + <p> + Whatever might be the supernatural influences among these mountains, the + travellers found their physical difficulties hard to cope with. They made + repeated attempts to find a passage through or over the chain, but were as + often turned back by impassable barriers. Sometimes a defile seemed to + open a practicable path, but it would terminate in some wild chaos of + rocks and cliffs, which it was impossible to climb. The animals of these + solitary regions were different from those they had been accustomed to. + The black-tailed deer would bound up the ravines on their approach, and + the bighorn would gaze fearlessly down upon them from some impending + precipice, or skip playfully from rock to rock. These animals are only to + be met with in mountainous regions. The former is larger than the common + deer, but its flesh is not equally esteemed by hunters. It has very large + ears, and the tip of the tail is black, from which it derives its name. + </p> + <p> + The bighorn is so named from its horns; which are of a great size, and + twisted like those of a ram. It is called by some the argali, by others + the ibex, though differing from both of these animals. The Mandans call it + the ahsahta, a name much better than the clumsy appellation which it + generally bears. It is of the size of a small elk, or large deer, and of a + dun color, excepting the belly and round the tail, where it is white. In + its habits it resembles the goat, frequenting the rudest precipices; + cropping the herbage from their edges; and like the chamois, bounding + lightly and securely among dizzy heights, where the hunter dares not + venture. It is difficult, therefore, to get within shot of it. Ben Jones + the hunter, however, in one of the passes of the Black Hills, succeeded in + bringing down a bighorn from the verge of a precipice, the flesh of which + was pronounced by the gormands of the camp to have the flavor of excellent + mutton. + </p> + <p> + Baffled in his attempts to traverse this mountain chain, Mr. Hunt skirted + along it to the southwest, keeping it on the right; and still in hopes of + finding an opening. At an early hour one day, he encamped in a narrow + valley on the banks of a beautifully clear but rushy pool; surrounded by + thickets bearing abundance of wild cherries, currants, and yellow and + purple gooseberries. + </p> + <p> + While the afternoon’s meal was in preparation, Mr. Hunt and Mr. M’Kenzie + ascended to the summit of the nearest hill, from whence, aided by the + purity and transparency of the evening atmosphere, they commanded a vast + prospect on all sides. Below them extended a plain, dotted with + innumerable herds of buffalo. Some were lying among the herbage, others + roaming in their unbounded pastures, while many were engaged in fierce + contests like those already described, their low bellowings reaching the + ear like the hoarse murmurs of the surf on a distant shore. + </p> + <p> + Far off in the west they descried a range of lofty mountains printing the + clear horizon, some of them evidently capped with snow. These they + supposed to be the Bighorn Mountains, so called from the animal of that + name, with which they abound. They are a spur of the great Rocky chain. + The hill from whence Mr. Hunt had this prospect was, according to his + computation, about two hundred and fifty miles from the Arickara village. + </p> + <p> + On returning to the camp, Mr. Hunt found some uneasiness prevailing among + the Canadian voyageurs. In straying among the thickets they had beheld + tracks of grizzly bears in every direction, doubtless attracted thither by + the fruit. To their dismay, they now found that they had encamped in one + of the favorite resorts of this dreaded animal. The idea marred all the + comfort of the encampment. As night closed, the surrounding thickets were + peopled with terrors; insomuch that, according to Mr. Hunt, they could not + help starting at every little breeze that stirred the bushes. + </p> + <p> + The grizzly bear is the only really formidable quadruped of our continent. + He is the favorite theme of the hunters of the far West, who describe him + as equal in size to a common cow and of prodigious strength. He makes + battle if assailed, and often, if pressed by hunger, is the assailant. If + wounded, he becomes furious and will pursue the hunter. His speed exceeds + that of a man but is inferior to that of a horse. In attacking he rears + himself on his hind legs, and springs the length of his body. Woe to horse + or rider that comes within the sweep of his terrific claws, which are + sometimes nine inches in length, and tear everything before them. + </p> + <p> + At the time we are treating of, the grizzly bear was still frequent on the + Missouri and in the lower country, but, like some of the broken tribes of + the prairie, he has gradually fallen back before his enemies, and is now + chiefly to be found in the upland regions, in rugged fastnesses like those + of the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountains. Here he lurks in caverns, or + holes which he has digged in the sides of hills, or under the roots and + trunks of fallen trees. Like the common bear, he is fond of fruits, and + mast, and roots, the latter of which he will dig up with his foreclaws. He + is carnivorous also, and will even attack and conquer the lordly buffalo, + dragging his huge carcass to the neighborhood of his den, that he may prey + upon it at his leisure. + </p> + <p> + The hunters, both white and red men, consider this the most heroic game. + They prefer to hunt him on horseback, and will venture so near as + sometimes to singe his hair with the flash of the rifle. The hunter of the + grizzly bear, however, must be an experienced hand, and know where to aim + at a vital part; for of all quadrupeds, he is the most difficult to be + killed. He will receive repeated wounds without flinching, and rarely is a + shot mortal unless through the head or heart. + </p> + <p> + That the dangers apprehended from the grizzly bear, at this night + encampment, were not imaginary, was proved on the following morning. Among + the hired men of the party was one William Cannon, who had been a soldier + at one of the frontier posts, and entered into the employ of Mr. Hunt at + Mackinaw. He was an inexperienced hunter and a poor shot, for which he was + much bantered by his more adroit comrades. Piqued at their raillery, he + had been practicing ever since he had joined the expedition, but without + success. In the course of the present afternoon, he went forth by himself + to take a lesson in venerie and, to his great delight, had the good + fortune to kill a buffalo. As he was a considerable distance from the + camp, he cut out the tongue and some of the choice bits, made them into a + parcel, and slinging them on his shoulders by a strap passed round his + forehead, as the voyageurs carry packages of goods, set out all glorious + for the camp, anticipating a triumph over his brother hunters. In passing + through a narrow ravine, he heard a noise behind him, and looking round + beheld, to his dismay, a grizzly bear in full pursuit, apparently + attracted by the scent of the meat. Cannon had heard so much of the + invulnerability of this tremendous animal, that he never attempted to + fire, but, slipping the strap from his forehead, let go the buffalo meat + and ran for his life. The bear did not stop to regale himself with the + game, but kept on after the hunter. He had nearly overtaken him when + Cannon reached a tree, and, throwing down his rifle scrambled up it. The + next instant Bruin was at the foot of the tree; but, as this species of + bear does not climb, he contented himself with turning the chase into a + blockade. Night came on. In the darkness Cannon could not perceive whether + or not the enemy maintained his station; but his fears pictured him + rigorously mounting guard. He passed the night, therefore, in the tree, a + prey to dismal fancies. In the morning the bear was gone. Cannon warily + descended the tree, gathered up his gun, and made the best of his way back + to the camp, without venturing to look after his buffalo meat. + </p> + <p> + While on this theme we will add another anecdote of an adventure with a + grizzly bear, told of John Day, the Kentucky hunter, but which happened at + a different period of the expedition. Day was hunting in company with one + of the clerks of the company, a lively youngster, who was a great favorite + with the veteran, but whose vivacity he had continually to keep in check. + They were in search of deer, when suddenly a huge grizzly bear emerged + from a thicket about thirty yards distant, rearing himself upon his hind + legs with a terrific growl, and displaying a hideous array of teeth and + claws. The rifle of the young man was leveled in an instant, but John + Day’s iron hand was as quickly upon his arm. “Be quiet, boy! be quiet!” + exclaimed the hunter between his clenched teeth, and without turning his + eyes from the bear. They remained motionless. The monster regarded them + for a time, then, lowering himself on his fore paws, slowly withdrew. He + had not gone many paces, before he again returned, reared himself on his + hind legs, and repeated his menace. Day’s hand was still on the arm of his + young companion; he again pressed it hard, and kept repeating between his + teeth, “Quiet, boy!—keep quiet!—keep quiet!”—though the + latter had not made a move since his first prohibition. The bear again + lowered himself on all fours, retreated some twenty yards further, and + again turned, reared, showed his teeth, and growled. This third menace was + too much for the game spirit of John Day. “By Jove!” exclaimed he, “I can + stand this no longer,” and in an instant a ball from his rifle whizzed + into his foe. The wound was not mortal; but, luckily, it dismayed instead + of enraged the animal, and he retreated into the thicket. + </p> + <p> + Day’s companion reproached him for not practicing the caution which he + enjoined upon others. “Why, boy,” replied the veteran, “caution is + caution, but one must not put up with too much, even from a bear. Would + you have me suffer myself to be bullied all day by a varmint?” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Indian Trail.—Rough Mountain Travelling.—Sufferings From + Hunger and Thirst—Powder River.—Game in Abundance.-A + Hunter’s Paradise.—Mountain Peak Seen at a Great Distance.— + One of the Bighorn Chain.—Rocky Mountains.—Extent.— + Appearance.—Height.-The Great American Desert.—Various + Characteristics of the Mountains.—Indian Superstitions + Concerning Them.—Land of Souls.—Towns of the Free and + Generous Spirits—Happy Hunting Grounds. +</pre> + <p> + FOR the two following days, the travellers pursued a westerly course for + thirty-four miles along a ridge of country dividing the tributary waters + of the Missouri and the Yellowstone. As landmarks they guided themselves + by the summits of the far distant mountains, which they supposed to belong + to the Bighorn chain. They were gradually rising into a higher + temperature, for the weather was cold for the season, with a sharp frost + in the night, and ice of an eighth of an inch in thickness. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-second of August, early in the day, they came upon the trail + of a numerous band. Rose and the other hunters examined the foot-prints + with great attention, and determined it to be the trail of a party of + Crows, returning from an annual trading visit to the Mandans. As this + trail afforded more commodious travelling, they immediately struck into + it, and followed it for two days. It led them over rough hills, and + through broken gullies, during which time they suffered great fatigue from + the ruggedness of the country. The weather, too, which had recently been + frosty, was now oppressively warm, and there was a great scarcity of + water, insomuch that a valuable dog belonging to Mr. M’Kenzie died of + thirst. + </p> + <p> + At one time they had twenty-five miles of painful travel, without a drop + of water, until they arrived at a small running stream. Here they eagerly + slaked their thirst; but, this being allayed, the calls of hunger became + equally importunate. Ever since they had got among these barren and arid + hills where there was a deficiency of grass, they had met with no + buffaloes; those animals keeping in the grassy meadows near the streams. + They were obliged, therefore, to have recourse to their corn meal, which + they reserved for such emergencies. Some, however, were lucky enough to + kill a wolf, which they cooked for supper, and pronounced excellent food. + </p> + <p> + The next morning they resumed their wayfaring, hungry and jaded, and had a + dogged march of eighteen miles among the same kind of hills. At length + they emerged upon a stream of clear water, one of the forks of Powder + River, and to their great joy beheld once more wide grassy meadows, + stocked with herds of buffalo. For several days they kept along the banks + of the river, ascending it about eighteen miles. It was a hunter’s + paradise; the buffaloes were in such abundance that they were enabled to + kill as many as they pleased, and to jerk a sufficient supply of meat for + several days’ journeying. Here, then, they reveled and reposed after their + hungry and weary travel, hunting and feasting, and reclining upon the + grass. Their quiet, however, was a little marred by coming upon traces of + Indians, who, they concluded, must be Crows: they were therefore obliged + to keep a more vigilant watch than ever upon their horses. For several + days they had been directing their march towards the lofty mountain + descried by Mr. Hunt and Mr. M’Kenzie on the 17th of August, the height of + which rendered it a landmark over a vast extent of country. At first it + had appeared to them solitary and detached; but as they advanced towards + it, it proved to be the principal summit of a chain of mountains. Day by + day it varied in form, or rather its lower peaks, and the summits of + others of the chain emerged above the clear horizon, and finally the + inferior line of hills which connected most of them rose to view. So far, + however, are objects discernible in the pure atmosphere of these elevated + plains, that, from the place where they first descried the main mountain, + they had to travel a hundred and fifty miles before they reached its base. + Here they encamped on the 30th of August, having come nearly four hundred + miles since leaving the Arickara village. + </p> + <p> + The mountain which now towered above them was one of the Bighorn chain, + bordered by a river, of the same name, and extending for a long distance + rather east of north and west of south. It was a part of the great system + of granite mountains which forms one of the most important and striking + features of North America, stretching parallel to the coast of the Pacific + from the Isthmus of Panama almost to the Arctic Ocean; and presenting a + corresponding chain to that of the Andes in the southern hemisphere. This + vast range has acquired, from its rugged and broken character and its + summits of naked granite, the appellation of the Rocky Mountains, a name + by no means distinctive, as all elevated ranges are rocky. Among the early + explorers it was known as the range of Chippewyan Mountains, and this + Indian name is the one it is likely to retain in poetic usage. Rising from + the midst of vast plains and prairies, traversing several degrees of + latitude, dividing the waters of the Atlantic and the Pacific, and seeming + to bind with diverging ridges the level regions on its flanks, it has been + figuratively termed the backbone of the northern continent. + </p> + <p> + The Rocky Mountains do not present a range of uniform elevation, but + rather groups and occasionally detached peaks. Though some of these rise + to the region of perpetual snows, and are upwards of eleven thousand feet + in real altitude, yet their height from their immediate basis is not so + great as might be imagined, as they swell up from elevated plains, several + thousand feet above the level of the ocean. These plains are often of a + desolate sterility; mere sandy wastes, formed of the detritus of the + granite heights, destitute of trees and herbage, scorched by the ardent + and reflected rays of the summer’s sun, and in winter swept by chilling + blasts from the snow-clad mountains. Such is a great part of that vast + region extending north and south along the mountains, several hundred + miles in width, which has not improperly been termed the Great American + Desert. It is a region that almost discourages all hope of cultivation, + and can only be traversed with safety by keeping near the streams which + intersect it. Extensive plains likewise occur among the higher regions of + the mountains, of considerable fertility. Indeed, these lofty plats of + table-land seem to form a peculiar feature in the American continents. + Some occur among the Cordilleras of the Andes, where cities, and towns, + and cultivated farms are to be seen eight thousand feet above the level of + the sea. + </p> + <p> + The Rocky Mountains, as we have already observed, occur sometimes singly + or in groups, and occasionally in collateral ridges. Between these are + deep valleys, with small streams winding through them, which find their + way into the lower plains, augmenting as they proceed, and ultimately + discharging themselves into those vast rivers, which traverse the prairies + like great arteries, and drain the continent. + </p> + <p> + While the granitic summits of the Rocky Mountains are bleak and bare, many + of the inferior ridges are scantily clothed with scrubbed pines, oaks, + cedar, and furze. Various parts of the mountains also bear traces of + volcanic action. Some of the interior valleys are strewed with scoria and + broken stones, evidently of volcanic origin; the surrounding rocks bear + the like character, and vestiges of extinguished craters are to be seen on + the elevated heights. + </p> + <p> + We have already noticed the superstitious feelings with which the Indians + regard the Black Hills; but this immense range of mountains, which divides + all that they know of the world, and gives birth to such mighty rivers, is + still more an object of awe and veneration. They call it “the crest of the + world,” and think that Wacondah, or the master of life, as they designate + the Supreme Being, has his residence among these aerial heights. The + tribes on the eastern prairies call them the mountains of the setting sun. + Some of them place the “happy hunting-grounds,” their ideal paradise, + among the recesses of these mountains; but say that they are invisible to + living men. Here also is the “Land of Souls,” in which are the “towns of + the free and generous spirits,” where those who have pleased the master of + life while living, enjoy after death all manner of delights. + </p> + <p> + Wonders are told of these mountains by the distant tribes, whose warriors + or hunters have ever wandered in their neighborhood. It is thought by some + that, after death, they will have to travel to these mountains and ascend + one of their highest and most rugged peaks, among rocks and snows and + tumbling torrents. After many moons of painful toil they will reach the + summit, from whence they will have a view over the land of souls. There + they will see the happy hunting-grounds, with the souls of the brave and + good living in tents in green meadows, by bright running streams, or + hunting the herds of buffalo, and elk, and deer, which have been slain on + earth. There, too, they will see the villages or towns of the free and + generous spirits brightening in the midst of delicious prairies. If they + have acquitted themselves well while living, they will be permitted to + descend and enjoy this happy country; if otherwise they will but be + tantalized with this prospect of it, and then hurled back from the + mountain to wander about the sandy plains, and endure the eternal pangs of + unsatisfied thirst and hunger. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0029" id="link2HCH0029"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Region of the Crow Indians—Scouts on the Lookout—Visit + From a Crew of Hard Riders.—A Crow Camp.—Presents to the + Crow Chief.-Bargaining.-Crow Bullies.-Rose Among His Indian + Friends.-Parting With the Crows.—Perplexities Among the + Mountains.—More of the Crows.—Equestrian Children.—Search + After Stragglers. +</pre> + <p> + THE travellers had now arrived in the vicinity of the mountain regions + infested by the Crow Indians. These restless marauders, as has already + been observed, are apt to be continually on the prowl about the skirts of + the mountains; and even when encamped in some deep and secluded glen, they + keep scouts upon the cliffs and promontories, who, unseen themselves, can + discern every living thing that moves over the subjacent plains and + valleys. It was not to be expected that our travellers could pass unseen + through a region thus vigilantly sentineled; accordingly, in the edge of + the evening, not long after they had encamped at the foot of the Bighorn + Sierra, a couple of wild-looking beings, scantily clad in skins, but well + armed, and mounted on horses as wild-looking as themselves, were seen + approaching with great caution from among the rocks. They might have been + mistaken for two of the evil spirits of the mountains so formidable in + Indian fable. + </p> + <p> + Rose was immediately sent out to hold a parley with them, and invite them + to the camp. They proved to be two scouts from the same band that had been + tracked for some days past, and which was now encamped at some distance in + the folds of the mountain. They were easily prevailed upon to come to the + camp, where they were well received, and, after remaining there until late + in the evening, departed to make a report of all they had seen and + experienced to their companions. + </p> + <p> + The following day had scarce dawned, when a troop of these wild mountain + scamperers came galloping with whoops and yells into the camp, bringing an + invitation from their chief for the white men to visit him. The tents were + accordingly struck, the horses laden, and the party were soon on the + march. The Crow horsemen, as they escorted them, appeared to take pride in + showing off their equestrian skill and hardihood; careering at full speed + on their half-savage steeds, and dashing among rocks and crags, and up and + down the most rugged and dangerous places with perfect ease and unconcern. + </p> + <p> + A ride of sixteen miles brought them, in the afternoon, in sight of the + Crow camp. It was composed of leathern tents, pitched in a meadow on the + border of a small clear stream at the foot of the mountain. A great number + of horses were grazing in the vicinity, many of them doubtless captured in + marauding excursions. + </p> + <p> + The Crow chieftain came forth to meet his guests with great professions of + friendship, and conducted them to his tents, pointing out, by the way, a + convenient place where they might fix their camp. No sooner had they done + so, than Mr. Hunt opened some of the packages and made the chief a present + of a scarlet blanket and a quantity of powder and ball; he gave him also + some knives, trinkets, and tobacco to be distributed among his warriors, + with all which the grim potentate seemed, for the time, well pleased. As + the Crows, however, were reputed to be perfidious in the extreme, and as + errant freebooters as the bird after which they were so worthily named; + and as their general feelings towards the whites were known to be by no + means friendly, the intercourse with them was conducted with great + circumspection. + </p> + <p> + The following day was passed in trading with the Crows for buffalo robes + and skins, and in bartering galled and jaded horses for others that were + in good condition. Some of the men, also, purchased horses on their own + account, so that the number now amounted to one hundred and twenty-one, + most of them sound and active, and fit for mountain service. + </p> + <p> + Their wants being supplied, they ceased all further traffic, much to the + dissatisfaction of the Crows, who became extremely urgent to continue the + trade, and, finding their importunities of no avail, assumed an insolent + and menacing tone. All this was attributed by Mr. Hunt and his associates + to the perfidious instigations of Rose the interpreter, whom they + suspected of the desire to foment ill-will between them and the savages, + for the promotion of his nefarious plans. M’Lellan, with his usual + tranchant mode of dealing out justice, resolved to shoot the desperado on + the spot in case of any outbreak. Nothing of the kind, however, occurred. + The Crows were probably daunted by the resolute, though quiet demeanor of + the white men, and the constant vigilance and armed preparations which + they maintained; and Rose, if he really still harbored his knavish + designs, must have perceived that they were suspected, and, if attempted + to be carried into effect, might bring ruin on his own head. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, bright and early, Mr. Hunt proposed to resume his + journeying. He took a ceremonious leave of the Crow chieftain, and his + vagabond warriors, and according to previous arrangements, consigned to + their cherishing friendship and fraternal adoption, their worthy + confederate Rose; who, having figured among the water pirates of the + Mississippi, was well fitted to rise to distinction among the land pirates + of the Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + It is proper to add, that the ruffian was well received among the tribe, + and appeared to be perfectly satisfied with the compromise he had made; + feeling much more at his ease among savages than among white men. It is + outcasts from justice, and heartless desperadoes of this kind who sow the + seeds of enmity and bitterness among the unfortunate tribes of the + frontier. There is no enemy so implacable against a country or a community + as one of its own people who has rendered himself an alien by his crimes. + </p> + <p> + Right glad to be delivered from this treacherous companion, Mr. Hunt + pursued his course along the skirts of the mountain, in a southern + direction, seeking for some practicable defile by which he might pass + through it; none such presented, however, in the course of fifteen miles, + and he encamped on a small stream, still on the outskirts. The green + meadows which border these mountain streams are generally well stocked + with game, and the hunters killed several fat elks, which supplied the + camp with fresh meat. In the evening the travellers were surprised by an + unwelcome visit from several Crows belonging to a different band from that + which they recently left, and who said their camp was among the mountains. + The consciousness of being environed by such dangerous neighbors, and of + being still within the range of Rose and his fellow ruffians, obliged the + party to be continually on the alert, and to maintain weary vigils + throughout the night, lest they should be robbed of their horses. + </p> + <p> + On the third of September, finding that the mountain still stretched + onwards, presenting a continued barrier, they endeavored to force a + passage to the westward, but soon became entangled among rocks and + precipices which set all their efforts at defiance. The mountain seemed, + for the most part, rugged, bare, and sterile; yet here and there it was + clothed with pines, and with shrubs and flowering plants, some of which + were in bloom. In tolling among these weary places, their thirst became + excessive, for no water was to be met with. Numbers of the men wandered + off into rocky dells and ravines in hopes of finding some brook or + fountain; some of whom lost their way and did not rejoin the main party. + </p> + <p> + After a day of painful and fruitless scrambling, Mr. Hunt gave up the + attempt to penetrate in this direction, and, returning to the little + stream on the skirts of the mountain, pitched his tents within six miles + of his encampment of the preceding night. He now ordered that signals + should be made for the stragglers in quest of water; but the night passed + away without their return. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, to their surprise, Rose made his appearance at the camp, + accompanied by some of his Crow associates. His unwelcome visit revived + their suspicions; but he announced himself as a messenger of good-will + from the chief, who, finding they had taken the wrong road, had sent Rose + and his companions to guide them to a nearer and better one across the + mountain. + </p> + <p> + Having no choice, being themselves utterly at fault, they set out under + this questionable escort. They had not gone far before they fell in with + the whole party of Crows, who, they now found, were going the same road + with themselves. The two cavalcades of white and red men, therefore, + pushed on together, and presented a wild and picturesque spectacle, as, + equipped with various weapons and in various garbs, with trains of + pack-horses, they wound in long lines through the rugged defiles, and up + and down the crags and steeps of the mountain. + </p> + <p> + The travellers had again an opportunity to see and admire the equestrian + habitudes and address of this hard-riding tribe. They were all mounted, + man, woman, and child, for the Crows have horses in abundance, so that no + one goes on foot. The children are perfect imps on horseback. Among them + was one so young that he could not yet speak. He was tied on a colt of two + years old, but managed the reins as if by instinct, and plied the whip + with true Indian prodigality. Mr. Hunt inquired the age of this infant + jockey, and was answered that “he had seen two winters.” + </p> + <p> + This is almost realizing the fable of the centaurs; nor can we wonder at + the equestrian adroitness of these savages, who are thus in a manner + cradled in the saddle, and become in infancy almost identified with the + animal they bestride. + </p> + <p> + The mountain defiles were exceedingly rough and broken, and the travelling + painful to the burdened horses. The party, therefore, proceeded but + slowly, and were gradually left behind by the band of Crows, who had taken + the lead. It is more than probable that Mr. Hunt loitered in his course, + to get rid of such doubtful fellow-travellers. Certain it is that he felt + a sensation of relief as he saw the whole crew, the renegade Rose and all, + disappear among the windings of the mountain, and heard the last yelp of + the savages die away in the distance. + </p> + <p> + When they were fairly out of sight, and out of hearing, he encamped on the + head waters of the little stream of the preceding day, having come about + sixteen miles. Here he remained all the succeeding day, as well to give + time for the Crows to get in the advance, as for the stragglers, who had + wandered away in quest of water two days previously, to rejoin the camp. + Indeed, considerable uneasiness began to be felt concerning these men, + lest they should become utterly bewildered in the defiles of the + mountains, or should fall into the hands of some marauding band of + savages. Some of the most experienced hunters were sent in search of them; + others, in the meantime, employed themselves in hunting. The narrow valley + in which they encamped being watered by a running stream, yielded fresh + pasturage, and though in the heart of the Bighorn Mountains, was well + stocked with buffalo. Several of these were killed, as also a grizzly + bear. In the evening, to the satisfaction of all parties, the stragglers + made their appearance, and provisions being in abundance, there was hearty + good cheer in the camp. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0030" id="link2HCH0030"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIX + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Mountain Glens.—Wandering Band of Savages—Anecdotes of + Shoshonies and Flatheads.—Root Diggers—Their Solitary + Lurking Habits.—Gnomes of the Mountains.—Wind River.— + Scarcity of Food.—Alteration of Route.—The Pilot Knobs or + Tetons.—Branch of the Colorado.—Hunting Camp. +</pre> + <p> + RESUMING their course on the following morning, Mr. Hunt and his + companions continued on westward through a rugged region of hills and + rocks, but diversified in many places by grassy little glens, with springs + of water, bright sparkling brooks, clumps of pine trees, and a profusion + of flowering plants, which were in bloom, although the weather was frosty. + These beautiful and verdant recesses, running through and softening the + rugged mountains, were cheering and refreshing to the wayworn travellers. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the morning, as they were entangled in a defile, they + beheld a small band of savages, as wild-looking as the surrounding + scenery, who reconnoitred them warily from the rocks before they ventured + to advance. Some of them were mounted on horses rudely caparisoned with + bridles or halters of buffalo hide, one end trailing after them on the + ground. They proved to be a mixed party of Flatheads and Shoshonies, or + Snakes; and as these tribes will be frequently mentioned in the course of + this work, we shall give a few introductory particulars concerning them. + </p> + <p> + The Flatheads in question are not to be confounded with those of the name + who dwell about the lower waters of the Columbia; neither do they flatten + their heads, as the others do. They inhabit the banks of a river on the + west side of the mountains, and are described as simple, honest, and + hospitable. Like all people of similar character, whether civilized or + savage, they are prone to be imposed upon; and are especially maltreated + by the ruthless Blackfeet, who harass them in their villages, steal their + horses by night, or openly carry them off in the face of day, without + provoking pursuit or retaliation. + </p> + <p> + The Shoshonies are a branch of the once powerful and prosperous tribe of + the Snakes, who possessed a glorious hunting country about the upper forks + of the Missouri, abounding in beaver and buffalo. Their hunting ground was + occasionally invaded by the Blackfeet, but the Snakes battled bravely for + their domains, and a long and bloody feud existed, with variable success. + At length the Hudson’s Bay Company, extending their trade into the + interior, had dealings with the Blackfeet, who were nearest to them, and + supplied them with fire-arms. The Snakes, who occasionally traded with the + Spaniards, endeavored, but in vain, to obtain similar weapons; the Spanish + traders wisely refused to arm them so formidably. The Blackfeet had now a + vast advantage, and soon dispossessed the poor Snakes of their favorite + hunting grounds, their land of plenty, and drove them from place to place, + until they were fain to take refuge in the wildest and most desolate + recesses of the Rocky Mountains. Even here they are subject to occasional + visits from their implacable foes, as long as they have horses, or any + other property to tempt the plunderer. Thus by degrees the Snakes have + become a scattered, broken-spirited, impoverished people; keeping about + lonely rivers and mountain streams, and subsisting chiefly upon fish. Such + of them as still possess horses, and occasionally figure as hunters, are + called Shoshonies; but there is another class, the most abject and + forlorn, who are called Shuckers, or more commonly Diggers and Root + Eaters. These are a shy, secret, solitary race, who keep in the most + retired parts of the mountains, lurking like gnomes in caverns and clefts + of the rocks, and subsisting in a great measure on the roots of the earth. + Sometimes, in passing through a solitary mountain valley, the traveller + comes perchance upon the bleeding carcass of a deer or buffalo that has + just been slain. He looks round in vain for the hunter; the whole + landscape is lifeless and deserted: at length he perceives a thread of + smoke, curling up from among the crags and cliffs, and scrambling to the + place, finds some forlorn and skulking brood of Diggers, terrified at + being discovered. + </p> + <p> + The Shoshonies, however, who, as has been observed, have still “horse to + ride and weapon to wear,” are somewhat bolder in their spirit, and more + open and wide in their wanderings. In the autumn, when salmon disappear + from the rivers, and hunger begins to pinch, they even venture down into + their ancient hunting grounds, to make a foray among the buffaloes. In + this perilous enterprise they are occasionally joined by the Flatheads, + the persecutions of the Blackfeet having produced a close alliance and + cooperation between these luckless and maltreated tribes. Still, + notwithstanding their united force, every step they take within the + debatable ground is taken in fear and trembling, and with the utmost + precaution: and an Indian trader assures us that he has seen at least five + hundred of them, armed and equipped for action, and keeping watch upon the + hill tops, while about fifty were hunting in the prairie. Their excursions + are brief and hurried; as soon as they have collected and jerked + sufficient buffalo meat for winter provisions, they pack their horses, + abandon the dangerous hunting grounds, and hasten back to the mountains, + happy if they have not the terrible Blackfeet rattling after them. + </p> + <p> + Such a confederate band of Shoshonies and Flatheads was the one met by our + travellers. It was bound on a visit to the Arrapahoes, a tribe inhabiting + the banks of the Nebraska. They were armed to the best of their scanty + means, and some of the Shoshonies had bucklers of buffalo hide, adorned + with feathers and leathern fringes, and which have a charmed virtue in + their eyes, from having been prepared, with mystic ceremonies, by their + conjurers. + </p> + <p> + In company with this wandering band our travellers proceeded all day. In + the evening they encamped near to each other in a defile of the mountains, + on the borders of a stream running north, and falling into Bighorn River. + In the vicinity of the camp, they found gooseberries, strawberries, and + currants in great abundance. The defile bore traces of having been a + thoroughfare for countless herds of buffaloes, though not one was to be + seen. The hunters succeeded in killing an elk and several black-tailed + deer. + </p> + <p> + They were now in the bosom of the second Bighorn ridge, with another lofty + and snow-crowned mountain full in view to the west. Fifteen miles of + western course brought them, on the following day, down into an + intervening plain, well stocked with buffalo. Here the Snakes and + Flatheads joined with the white hunters in a successful hunt, that soon + filled the camp with provisions. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 9th of September, the travellers parted company with + their Indian friends, and continued on their course to the west. A march + of thirty miles brought them, in the evening, to the banks of a rapid and + beautifully clear stream about a hundred yards wide. It is the north fork + or branch of the Bighorn River, but bears its peculiar name of the Wind + River, from being subject in the winter season to a continued blast which + sweeps its banks and prevents the snow from lying on them. This blast is + said to be caused by a narrow gap or funnel in the mountains, through + which the river forces its way between perpendicular precipices, + resembling cut rocks. + </p> + <p> + This river gives its name to a whole range of mountains consisting of + three parallel chains, eighty miles in length, and about twenty or + twenty-five broad. One of its peaks is probably fifteen thousand feet + above the level of the sea, being one of the highest of the Rocky Sierra. + These mountains give rise, not merely to the Wind or Bighorn River, but to + several branches of the Yellowstone and the Missouri on the east, and of + the Columbia and Colorado on the west; thus dividing the sources of these + mighty streams. + </p> + <p> + For five succeeding days, Mr. Hunt and his party continued up the course + of the Wind River, to the distance of about eighty miles, crossing and + recrossing it, according to its windings, and the nature of its banks; + sometimes passing through valleys, at other times scrambling over rocks + and hills. The country in general was destitute of trees, but they passed + through groves of wormwood, eight and ten feet in height, which they used + occasionally for fuel, and they met with large quantities of wild flax. + </p> + <p> + The mountains were destitute of game; they came in sight of two grizzly + bears, but could not get near enough for a shot; provisions, therefore, + began to be scanty. They saw large flights of the kind of thrush commonly + called the robin, and many smaller birds of migratory species; but the + hills in general appeared lonely and with few signs of animal life. On the + evening of the 14th September, they encamped on the forks of the Wind or + Bighorn River. The largest of these forks came from the range of Wind + River Mountains. + </p> + <p> + The hunters who served as guides to the party in this part of their route, + had assured Mr. Hunt that, by following up Wind River, and crossing a + single mountain ridge, he would come upon the head waters of the Columbia. + This scarcity of game, however, which already had been felt to a pinching + degree, and which threatened them with famine among the sterile heights + which lay before them, admonished them to change their course. It was + determined, therefore, to make for a stream, which they were informed + passed the neighboring mountains, to the south of west, on the grassy + banks of which it was probable they would meet with buffalo. Accordingly, + about three o’clock on the following day, meeting with a beaten Indian + road which led in the proper direction, they struck into it, turning their + backs upon Wind River. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the day, they came to a height that commanded an almost + boundless prospect. Here one of the guides paused, and, after considering + the vast landscape attentively, pointed to three mountain peaks glistening + with snow, which rose, he said, above a fork of Columbia River. They were + hailed by the travellers with that joy with which a beacon on a seashore + is hailed by mariners after a long and dangerous voyage. + </p> + <p> + It is true there was many a weary league to be traversed before they + should reach these landmarks, for, allowing for their evident height and + the extreme transparency of the atmosphere, they could not be much less + than a hundred miles distant. Even after reaching them, there would yet + remain hundreds of miles of their journey to be accomplished. All these + matters were forgotten in the joy at seeing the first landmarks of the + Columbia, that river which formed the bourne of the expedition. These + remarkable peaks were known as the Tetons; as guiding points for many + days, to Mr. Hunt, he gave them the names of the Pilot Knobs. + </p> + <p> + The travellers continued their course to the south of west for about forty + miles, through a region so elevated that patches of snow lay on the + highest summits and on the northern declivities. At length they came to + the desired stream, the object of their search, the waters of which flowed + to the west. It was, in fact, a branch of the Colorado, which falls into + the Gulf of California, and had received from the hunters the name of + Spanish River, from information given by the Indians that Spaniards + resided upon its lower waters. + </p> + <p> + The aspect of this river and its vicinity was cheering to the wayworn and + hungry travellers. Its banks were green, and there were grassy valleys + running from it various directions, into the heart of the rugged + mountains, with herds of buffalo quietly grazing. The hunters sallied + forth with keen alacrity, and soon returned laden with provisions. + </p> + <p> + In this part of the mountains Mr. Hunt met with three different kinds of + gooseberries. The common purple, on a low and very thorny bush; a yellow + kind, of an excellent flavor, growing on a stock free from thorns; and a + deep purple, of the size and taste of our winter grape, with a thorny + stalk. There were also three kinds of currants, one very large and well + tasted, of a purple color, and growing on a bush eight or nine feet high. + Another of a yellow color, and of the size and taste of the large red + currant, the bush four or five feet high; and the third a beautiful + scarlet, resembling the strawberry in sweetness, though rather insipid, + and growing on a low bush. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th they continued down the course of the river, making fifteen + miles to the southwest. The river abounded with geese and ducks, and there + were signs of its being inhabited by beaver and otters: indeed they were + now approaching regions where these animals, the great objects of the fur + trade, are said to abound. They encamped for the night opposite the end of + a mountain in the west, which was probably the last chain of the Rocky + Mountains. On the following morning they abandoned the main course of the + Spanish River, and taking a northwest direction for eight miles, came upon + one of its little tributaries, issuing out of the bosom of the mountains, + and running through green meadows, yielding pasturage to herds of buffalo. + As these were probably the last of that animal they would meet with, they + encamped on the grassy banks of the river, determined to spend several + days in hunting, so as to be able to jerk sufficient meat to supply them + until they should reach the waters of the Columbia, where they trusted to + find fish enough for their support. A little repose, too, was necessary + for both men and horses, after their rugged and incessant marching; having + in the course of the last seventeen days traversed two hundred and sixty + miles of rough, and in many parts sterile, mountain country. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0031" id="link2HCH0031"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A Plentiful Hunting Camp.-Shoshonie Hunters—Hoback’s River + —Mad River—Encampment Near the Pilot Knobs.—A + Consultation.—Preparations for a Perilous Voyage. +</pre> + <p> + FIVE days were passed by Mr. Hunt and his companions in the fresh meadows + watered by the bright little mountain stream. The hunters made great havoc + among the buffaloes, and brought in quantities of meat; the voyageurs + busied themselves about the fires, roasting and stewing for present + purposes, or drying provisions for the journey; the pack-horses, eased of + their burdens, rolled on the grass, or grazed at large about the ample + pasture; those of the party who had no call upon their services, indulged + in the luxury of perfect relaxation, and the camp presented a picture of + rude feasting and revelry, of mingled bustle and repose, characteristic of + a halt in a fine hunting country. In the course of one of their + excursions, some of the men came in sight of a small party of Indians, who + instantly fled in great apparent consternation. They immediately retreated + to camp with the intelligence: upon which Mr. Hunt and four others flung + themselves upon their horses, and sallied forth to reconnoitre. After + riding for about eight miles, they came upon a wild mountain scene. A + lonely green valley stretched before them, surrounded by rugged heights. A + herd of buffalo were careering madly through it, with a troop of savage + horsemen in full chase, plying them with their bows and arrows. The + appearance of Mr. Hunt and his companions put an abrupt end to the hunt; + the buffalo scuttled off in one direction, while the Indians plied their + lashes and galloped off in another, as fast as their steeds could carry + them. Mr. Hunt gave chase; there was a sharp scamper, though of short + continuance. Two young Indians, who were indifferently mounted, were soon + overtaken. They were terribly frightened, and evidently gave themselves up + for lost. By degrees their fears were allayed by kind treatment; but they + continued to regard the strangers with a mixture of awe and wonder, for it + was the first time in their lives they had ever seen a white man. + </p> + <p> + They belonged to a party of Snakes who had come across the mountains on + their autumnal hunting excursion to provide buffalo meat for the winter. + Being persuaded of the peaceful intentions of Mr. Hunt and his companions, + they willingly conducted them to their camp. It was pitched in a narrow + valley on the margin of a stream. The tents were of dressed skins, some of + them fantastically painted; with horses grazing about them. The approach + of the party caused a transient alarm in the camp, for these poor Indians + were ever on the look-out for cruel foes. No sooner, however, did they + recognize the garb and complexion of their visitors, than their + apprehensions were changed into Joy; for some of them had dealt with white + men, and knew them to be friendly, and to abound with articles of singular + value. They welcomed them, therefore, to their tents, set food before + them; and entertained them to the best of their power. + </p> + <p> + They had been successful in their hunt, and their camp was full of jerked + buffalo meat, all of the choicest kind, and extremely fat. Mr. Hunt + purchased enough of them, in addition to what had been killed and cured by + his own hunters, to load all the horses excepting those reserved for the + partners and the wife of Pierre Dorion. He found, also, a few beaver skins + in their camp, for which he paid liberally, as an inducement to them to + hunt for more; informing them that some of his party intended to live + among the mountains, and trade with the native hunters for their peltries. + The poor Snakes soon comprehended the advantages thus held out to them, + and promised to exert themselves to procure a quantity of beaver skins for + future traffic. Being now well supplied with provisions, Mr. Hunt broke up + his encampment on the 24th of September, and continued on to the west. A + march of fifteen miles, over a mountain ridge, brought them to a stream + about fifty feet in width, which Hoback, one of their guides, who had + trapped about the neighborhood when in the service of Mr. Henry, + recognized for one of the head waters of the Columbia. The travellers + hailed it with delight, as the first stream they had encountered tending + toward their point of destination. They kept along it for two days, during + which, from the contribution of many rills and brooks, it gradually + swelled into a small river. As it meandered among rocks and precipices, + they were frequently obliged to ford it, and such was its rapidity that + the men were often in danger of being swept away. Sometimes the banks + advanced so close upon the river that they were obliged to scramble up and + down their rugged promontories, or to skirt along their bases where there + was scarce a foothold. Their horses had dangerous falls in some of these + passes. One of them rolled, with his load, nearly two hundred feet down + hill into the river, but without receiving any injury. At length they + emerged from these stupendous defiles, and continued for several miles + along the bank of Hoback’s River, through one of the stern mountain + valleys. Here it was joined by a river of greater magnitude and swifter + current, and their united waters swept off through the valley in one + impetuous stream, which, from its rapidity and turbulence, had received + the name of the Mad River. At the confluence of these streams the + travellers encamped. An important point in their arduous journey had been + attained; a few miles from their camp rose the three vast snowy peaks + called the Tetons, or the Pilot Knobs, the great landmarks of the + Columbia, by which they had shaped their course through this mountain + wilderness. By their feet flowed the rapid current of Mad River, a stream + ample enough to admit of the navigation of canoes, and down which they + might possibly be able to steer their course to the main body of the + Columbia. The Canadian voyageurs rejoiced at the idea of once more + launching themselves upon their favorite element; of exchanging their + horses for canoes, and of gliding down the bosoms of rivers, instead of + scrambling over the backs of mountains. Others of the party, also, + inexperienced in this kind of travelling, considered their toils and + troubles as drawing to a close. They had conquered the chief difficulties + of this great rocky barrier, and now flattered themselves with the hope of + an easy downward course for the rest of their journey. Little did they + dream of the hardships and perils by land and water, which were yet to be + encountered in the frightful wilderness that intervened between them and + the shores of the Pacific! + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0032" id="link2HCH0032"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A Consultation Whether to Proceed by Land or Water— + Preparations for Boat-Building.—An Exploring Party.—A + Party of Trappers Detached.—Two Snake Visitors.—Their + Report Concerning the River.—Confirmed by the Exploring + Party.—Mad River Abandoned.—Arrival at Henry’s Fort.— + Detachment of Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner to Trap.—Mr. + Miller Resolves to Accompany Them.—Their Departure. +</pre> + <p> + ON the banks of Mad River Mr. Hunt held a consultation with the other + partners as to their future movements. The wild and impetuous current of + the river rendered him doubtful whether it might not abound with + impediments lower down, sufficient to render the navigation of it slow and + perilous, if not impracticable. The hunters who had acted as guides knew + nothing of the character of the river below; what rocks, and shoals, and + rapids might obstruct it, or through what mountains and deserts it might + pass. Should they then abandon their horses, cast themselves loose in + fragile barks upon this wild, doubtful, and unknown river; or should they + continue their more toilsome and tedious, but perhaps more certain + wayfaring by land? + </p> + <p> + The vote, as might have been expected, was almost unanimous for + embarkation; for when men are in difficulties every change seems to be for + the better. The difficulty now was to find timber of sufficient size for + the construction of canoes, the trees in these high mountain regions being + chiefly a scrubbed growth of pines and cedars, aspens, haws, and + service-berries, and a small kind of cotton-tree, with a leaf resembling + that of the willow. There was a species of large fir, but so full of knots + as to endanger the axe in hewing it. After searching for some time, a + growth of timber, of sufficient size, was found lower down the river, + whereupon the encampment was moved to the vicinity. + </p> + <p> + The men were now set to work to fell trees, and the mountains echoed to + the unwonted sound of their axes. While preparations were thus going on + for a voyage down the river, Mr. Hunt, who still entertained doubts of its + practicability, despatched an exploring party, consisting of John Reed, + the clerk, John Day, the hunter, and Pierre Dorion, the interpreter, with + orders to proceed several days’ march along the stream, and notice its + course and character. + </p> + <p> + After their departure, Mr. Hunt turned his thoughts to another object of + importance. He had now arrived at the head waters of the Columbia, which + were among the main points embraced by the enterprise of Mr. Astor. These + upper streams were reputed to abound in beaver, and had as yet been + unmolested by the white trapper. The numerous signs of beaver met with + during the recent search for timber gave evidence that the neighborhood + was a good “trapping ground.” Here, then, it was proper to begin to cast + loose those leashes of hardy trappers, that are detached from trading + parties, in the very heart of the wilderness. The men detached in the + present instance were Alexander Carson, Louis St. Michel, Pierre Detaye, + and Pierre Delaunay. Trappers generally go in pairs, that they may assist, + protect, and comfort each other in their lonely and perilous occupations. + Thus Carson and St. Michel formed one couple, and Detaye and Delaunay + another. They were fitted out with traps, arms, ammunition, horses, and + every other requisite, and were to trap upon the upper part of Mad River, + and upon the neighboring streams of the mountains. This would probably + occupy them for some months; and, when they should have collected a + sufficient quantity of peltries, they were to pack them upon their horses + and make the best of their way to the mouth of Columbia River, or to any + intermediate post which might be established by the company. They took + leave of their comrades and started off on their several courses with + stout hearts and cheerful countenances; though these lonely cruisings into + a wild and hostile wilderness seem to the uninitiated equivalent to being + cast adrift in the ship’s yawl in the midst of the ocean. + </p> + <p> + Of the perils that attend the lonely trapper, the reader will have + sufficient proof, when he comes, in the after part of this work, to learn + the hard fortunes of these poor fellows in the course of their wild + peregrinations. + </p> + <p> + The trappers had not long departed, when two Snake Indians wandered into + the camp. When they perceived that the strangers were fabricating canoes, + they shook their heads and gave them to understand that the river was not + navigable. Their information, however, was scoffed at by some of the + party, who were obstinately bent on embarkation, but was confirmed by the + exploring party, who returned after several days’ absence. They had kept + along the river with great difficulty for two days, and found it a narrow, + crooked, turbulent stream, confined in a rocky channel, with many rapids, + and occasionally overhung with precipices. From the summit of one of these + they had caught a bird’s-eye view of its boisterous career for a great + distance through the heart of the mountain, with impending rocks and + cliffs. Satisfied from this view that it was useless to follow its course, + either by land or water, they had given up all further investigation. + </p> + <p> + These concurring reports determined Mr. Hunt to abandon Mad River, and + seek some more navigable stream. This determination was concurred in by + all his associates excepting Mr. Miller, who had become impatient of the + fatigue of land travel, and was for immediate embarkation at all hazards. + This gentleman had been in a gloomy and irritated state of mind for some + time past, being troubled with a bodily malady that rendered travelling on + horseback extremely irksome to him, and being, moreover, discontented with + having a smaller share in the expedition than his comrades. His + unreasonable objections to a further march by land were overruled, and the + party prepared to decamp. + </p> + <p> + Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner, the three hunters who had hitherto served as + guides among the mountains, now stepped forward, and advised Mr. Hunt to + make for the post established during the preceding year by Mr. Henry, of + the Missouri Fur Company. They had been with Mr. Henry, and, as far as + they could judge by the neighboring landmarks, his post could not be very + far off. They presumed there could be but one intervening ridge of + mountains, which might be passed without any great difficulty. Henry’s + post, or fort, was on an upper branch of the Columbia, down which they + made no doubt it would be easy to navigate in canoes. + </p> + <p> + The two Snake Indians being questioned in the matter, showed a perfect + knowledge of the situation of the post, and offered, with great alacrity, + to guide them to the place. Their offer was accepted, greatly to the + displeasure of Mr. Miller, who seemed obstinately bent upon braving the + perils of Mad River. + </p> + <p> + The weather for a few days past had been stormy, with rain and sleet. The + Rocky Mountains are subject to tempestuous winds from the west; these + sometimes come in flaws or currents, making a path through the forests + many yards in width, and whirling off trunks and branches to a great + distance. The present storm subsided on the third of October, leaving all + the surrounding heights covered with snow; for while rain had fallen in + the valley, it had snowed on the hill tops. + </p> + <p> + On the 4th, they broke up their encampment, and crossed the river, the + water coming up to the girths of their horses. After travelling four + miles, they encamped at the foot of the mountain, the last, as they hoped, + which they should have to traverse. Four days more took them across it, + and over several plains, watered by beautiful little streams, tributaries + of Mad River. Near one of their encampments there was a hot spring + continually emitting a cloud of vapor. These elevated plains, which give a + peculiar character to the mountains, are frequented by large gangs of + antelopes, fleet as the wind. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 8th of October, after a cold wintry day, with gusts + of westerly wind and flurries of snow, they arrived at the sought-for post + of Mr. Henry. Here he had fixed himself, after being compelled by the + hostilities of the Blackfeet, to abandon the upper waters of the Missouri. + The post, however, was deserted, for Mr. Henry had left it in the course + of the preceding spring, and, as it afterwards appeared, had fallen in + with Mr. Lisa, at the Arickara village on the Missouri, some time after + the separation of Mr. Hunt and his party. + </p> + <p> + The weary travellers gladly took possession of the deserted log huts which + had formed the post, and which stood on the bank of a stream upwards of a + hundred yards wide, on which they intended to embark. There being plenty + of suitable timber in the neighborhood, Mr. Hunt immediately proceeded to + construct canoes. As he would have to leave his horses and their + accoutrements here, he determined to make this a trading post, where the + trappers and hunters, to be distributed about the country, might repair; + and where the traders might touch on their way through the mountains to + and from the establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. He informed the + two Snake Indians of this determination, and engaged them to remain in + that neighborhood and take care of the horses until the white men should + return, promising them ample rewards for their fidelity. It may seem a + desperate chance to trust to the faith and honesty of two such vagabonds; + but, as the horses would have, at all events, to be abandoned, and would + otherwise become the property of the first vagrant horde that should + encounter them, it was one chance in favor of their being regained. + </p> + <p> + At this place another detachment of hunters prepared to separate from the + party for the purpose of trapping beaver. Three of these had already been + in this neighborhood, being the veteran Robinson and his companions, + Hoback and Rezner, who had accompanied Mr. Henry across the mountains, and + who had been picked up by Mr. Hunt on the Missouri, on their way home to + Kentucky. According to agreement they were fitted out with horses, traps, + ammunition, and everything requisite for their undertaking, and were to + bring in all the peltries they should collect, either to this trading + post, or to the establishment at the mouth of Columbia River. Another + hunter, of the name of Cass, was associated with them in their enterprise. + It is in this way that small knots of trappers and hunters are distributed + about the wilderness by the fur companies, and like cranes and bitterns, + haunt its solitary streams. Robinson, the Kentuckian, the veteran of the + “bloody ground,” who, as has already been noted, had been scalped by the + Indians in his younger days, was the leader of this little band. When they + were about to depart, Mr. Miller called the partners together and threw up + his share in the company, declaring his intention of joining the party of + trappers. + </p> + <p> + This resolution struck every one with astonishment, Mr. Miller being a man + of education and of cultivated habits, and little fitted for the rude life + of a hunter. Besides, the precarious and slender profits arising from such + a life were beneath the prospects of one who held a share in the general + enterprise. Mr. Hunt was especially concerned and mortified at his + determination, as it was through his advice and influence he had entered + into the concern. He endeavored, therefore, to dissuade him from this + sudden resolution; representing its rashness, and the hardships and perils + to which it would expose him. He earnestly advised him, however he might + feel dissatisfied with the enterprise, still to continue on in company + until they should reach the mouth of Columbia River. There they would meet + the expedition that was to come by sea; when, should he still feel + disposed to relinquish the undertaking, Mr. Hunt pledged himself to + furnish him a passage home in one of the vessels belonging to the company. + </p> + <p> + To all this Miller replied abruptly, that it was useless to argue with + him, as his mind was made up. They might furnish him, or not, as they + pleased, with the necessary supplies, but he was determined to part + company here, and set off with the trappers. So saying, he flung out of + their presence without vouchsafing any further conversation. + </p> + <p> + Much as this wayward conduct gave them anxiety, the partners saw it was in + vain to remonstrate. Every attention was paid to fit him out for his + headstrong undertaking. He was provided with four horses, and all the + articles he required. The two Snakes undertook to conduct him and his + companions to an encampment of their tribe, lower down among the + mountains, from whom they would receive information as to the trapping + grounds. After thus guiding them, the Snakes were to return to Fort Henry, + as the new trading post was called, and take charge of the horses which + the party would leave there, of which, after all the hunters were + supplied, there remained seventy-seven. These matters being all arranged, + Mr. Miller set out with his companions, under guidance of the two Snakes, + on the 10th of October; and much did it grieve the friends of that + gentleman to see him thus wantonly casting himself loose upon savage life. + How he and his comrades fared in the wilderness, and how the Snakes + acquitted themselves of their trust respecting the horses, will hereafter + appear in the course of these rambling anecdotes. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0033" id="link2HCH0033"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Scanty Fare.—A Mendicant Snake.—Embarkation on Henry + River—Joy of the Voyageurs.-Arrival at Snake River.—Rapids + and Breakers.—Beginning of Misfortunes.—Snake + Encampments.—Parley With a Savage.—A Second Disaster.— + Loss of a Boatman.—The Caldron Linn. +</pre> + <p> + WHILE the canoes were in preparation, the hunters ranged about the + neighborhood, but with little success. Tracks of buffaloes were to be seen + in all directions, but none of a fresh date. There were some elk, but + extremely wild; two only were killed. Antelopes were likewise seen, but + too shy and fleet to be approached. A few beavers were taken every night, + and salmon trout of a small size, so that the camp had principally to + subsist upon dried buffalo meat. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th, a poor, half-naked Snake Indian, one of that forlorn caste + called the Shuckers, or Diggers, made his appearance at the camp. He came + from some lurking-place among the rocks and cliffs, and presented a + picture of that famishing wretchedness to which these lonely fugitives + among the mountains are sometimes reduced. Having received wherewithal to + allay his hunger, he disappeared, but in the course of a day or two + returned to the camp, bringing with him his son, a miserable boy, still + more naked and forlorn than himself. Food was given to both; they skulked + about the camp like hungry hounds, seeking what they might devour, and + having gathered up the feet and entrails of some beavers that were lying + about, slunk off with them to their den among the rocks. + </p> + <p> + By the 18th of October, fifteen canoes were completed, and on the + following day the party embarked with their effects; leaving their horses + grazing about the banks, and trusting to the honesty of the two Snakes, + and some special turn of good luck for their future recovery. + </p> + <p> + The current bore them along at a rapid rate; the light spirits of the + Canadian voyageurs, which had occasionally flagged upon land, rose to + their accustomed buoyancy on finding themselves again upon the water. They + wielded their paddles with their wonted dexterity, and for the first time + made the mountains echo with their favorite boat songs. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the day the little squadron arrived at the confluence of + Henry and Mad Rivers, which, thus united, swelled into a beautiful stream + of a light pea-green color, navigable for boats of any size, and which, + from the place of junction, took the name of Snake River, a stream doomed + to be the scene of much disaster to the travellers. The banks were here + and there fringed with willow thickets and small cotton-wood trees. The + weather was cold, and it snowed all day, and great flocks of ducks and + geese, sporting in the water or streaming through the air, gave token that + winter was at hand; yet the hearts of the travellers were light, and, as + they glided down the little river, they flattered themselves with the hope + of soon reaching the Columbia. After making thirty miles in a southerly + direction, they encamped for the night in a neighborhood which required + some little vigilance, as there were recent traces of grizzly bears among + the thickets. + </p> + <p> + On the following day the river increased in width and beauty; flowing + parallel to a range of mountains on the left, which at times were finely + reflected in its light green waters. The three snowy summits of the Pilot + Knobs or Tetons were still seen towering in the distance. After pursuing a + swift but placid course for twenty miles, the current began to foam and + brawl, and assume the wild and broken character common to the streams west + of the Rocky Mountains. In fact the rivers which flow from those mountains + to the Pacific are essentially different from those which traverse the + prairies on their eastern declivities. The latter, though sometimes + boisterous, are generally free from obstructions, and easily navigated; + but the rivers to the west of the mountains descend more steeply and + impetuously, and are continually liable to cascades and rapids. The latter + abounded in the part of the river which the travellers were now + descending. Two of the canoes filled among the breakers; the crews were + saved, but much of the lading was lost or damaged, and one of the canoes + drifted down the stream and was broken among the rocks. + </p> + <p> + On the following day, October 21st, they made but a short distance when + they came to a dangerous strait, where the river was compressed for nearly + half a mile between perpendicular rocks, reducing it to the width of + twenty yards, and increasing its violence. Here they were obliged to pass + the canoes down cautiously by a line from the impending banks. This + consumed a great part of a day; and after they had reembarked they were + soon again impeded by rapids, when they had to unload their canoes and + carry them and their cargoes for some distance by land. It is at these + places, called “portages,” that the Canadian voyageur exhibits his most + valuable qualities; carrying heavy burdens, and toiling to and fro, on + land and in the water, over rocks and precipices, among brakes and + brambles, not only without a murmur, but with the greatest cheerfulness + and alacrity, joking and laughing and singing scraps of old French + ditties. + </p> + <p> + The spirits of the party, however, which had been elated on first varying + their journeying from land to water, had now lost some of their buoyancy. + Everything ahead was wrapped in uncertainty. They knew nothing of the + river on which they were floating. It had never been navigated by a white + man, nor could they meet with an Indian to give them any information + concerning it. It kept on its course through a vast wilderness of silent + and apparently uninhabited mountains, without a savage wigwam upon its + banks, or bark upon its waters. The difficulties and perils they had + already passed made them apprehend others before them, that might + effectually bar their progress. As they glided onward, however, they + regained heart and hope. The current continued to be strong; but it was + steady, and though they met with frequent rapids, none of them were bad. + Mountains were constantly to be seen in different directions, but + sometimes the swift river glided through prairies, and was bordered by + small cotton-wood trees and willows. These prairies at certain seasons are + ranged by migratory herds of the wide-wandering buffalo, the tracks of + which, though not of recent date, were frequently to be seen. Here, too, + were to be found the prickly pear or Indian fig, a plant which loves a + more southern climate. On the land were large flights of magpies and + American robins; whole fleets of ducks and geese navigated the river, or + flew off in long streaming files at the approach of the canoes; while the + frequent establishments of the painstaking and quiet-loving beaver showed + that the solitude of these waters was rarely disturbed, even by the + all-pervading savage. + </p> + <p> + They had now come near two hundred and eighty miles since leaving Fort + Henry, yet without seeing a human being, or a human habitation; a wild and + desert solitude extended on either side of the river, apparently almost + destitute of animal life. At length, on the 24th of October, they were + gladdened by the sight of some savage tents, and hastened to land and + visit them, for they were anxious to procure information to guide them on + their route. On their approach, however, the savages fled in + consternation. They proved to be a wandering band of Shoshonies. In their + tents were great quantities of small fish about two inches long, together + with roots and seeds, or grain, which they were drying for winter + provisions. They appeared to be destitute of tools of any kind, yet there + were bows and arrows very well made; the former were formed of pine, + cedar, or bone, strengthened by sinews, and the latter of the wood of + rosebushes, and other crooked plants, but carefully straightened, and + tipped with stone of a bottle-green color. + </p> + <p> + There were also vessels of willow and grass, so closely wrought as to hold + water, and a seine neatly made with meshes, in the ordinary manner, of the + fibres of wild flax or nettle. The humble effects of the poor savages + remained unmolested by their visitors, and a few small articles, with a + knife or two, were left in the camp, and were no doubt regarded as + invaluable prizes. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after leaving this deserted camp, and reembarking in the canoes, + the travellers met with three of the Snakes on a triangular raft made of + flags or reeds; such was their rude mode of navigating the river. They + were entirely naked excepting small mantles of hare skins over their + shoulders. The canoes approached near enough to gain a full view of them, + but they were not to be brought to a parley. + </p> + <p> + All further progress for the day was barred by a fall in the river of + about thirty feet perpendicular; at the head of which the party encamped + for the night. + </p> + <p> + The next day was one of excessive toil and but little progress: the river + winding through a wild rocky country, and being interrupted by frequent + rapids, among which the canoes were in great peril. On the succeeding day + they again visited a camp of wandering Snakes, but the inhabitants fled + with terror at the sight of a fleet of canoes, filled with white men, + coming down their solitary river. + </p> + <p> + As Mr. Hunt was extremely anxious to gain information concerning his + route, he endeavored by all kinds of friendly signs to entice back the + fugitives. At length one, who was on horseback, ventured back with fear + and trembling. He was better clad, and in better condition, than most of + his vagrant tribe that Mr. Hunt had yet seen. The chief object of his + return appeared to be to intercede for a quantity of dried meat and salmon + trout, which he had left behind; on which, probably, he depended for his + winter’s subsistence. The poor wretch approached with hesitation, the + alternate dread of famine and of white men operating upon his mind. He + made the most abject signs, imploring Mr. Hunt not to carry off his food. + The latter tried in every way to reassure him, and offered him knives in + exchange for his provisions; great as was the temptation, the poor Snake + could only prevail upon himself to spare a part; keeping a feverish watch + over the rest, lest it should be taken away. It was in vain Mr. Hunt made + inquiries of him concerning his route, and the course of the river. The + Indian was too much frightened and bewildered to comprehend him or to + reply; he did nothing but alternately commend himself to the protection of + the Good Spirit, and supplicate Mr. Hunt not to take away his fish and + buffalo meat; and in this state they left him, trembling about his + treasures. + </p> + <p> + In the course of that and the next day they made nearly eight miles; the + river inclined to the south of west, and being clear and beautiful, nearly + half a mile in width, with many populous communities of the beaver along + its banks. The 28th of October, however, was a day of disaster. The river + again became rough and impetuous, and was chafed and broken by numerous + rapids. These grew more and more dangerous, and the utmost skill was + required to steer among them. Mr. Crooks was seated in the second canoe of + the squadron, and had an old experienced Canadian for steersman, named + Antoine Clappine, one of the most valuable of the voyageurs. The leading + canoe had glided safely among the turbulent and roaring surges, but in + following it, Mr. Crooks perceived that his canoe was bearing towards a + rock. He called out to the steersman, but his warning voice was either + unheard or unheeded. In the next moment they struck upon the rock. The + canoe was split and overturned. There were five persons on board. Mr. + Crooks and one of his companions were thrown amidst roaring breakers and a + whirling current, but succeeded, by strong swimming, to reach the shore. + Clappine and two others clung to the shattered bark, and drifted with it + to a rock. The wreck struck the rock with one end, and swinging round, + flung poor Clappine off into the raging stream, which swept him away, and + he perished. His comrades succeeded in getting upon the rock, from whence + they were afterwards taken off. + </p> + <p> + This disastrous event brought the whole squadron to a halt, and struck a + chill into every bosom. Indeed they had arrived at a terrific strait, that + forbade all further progress in the canoes, and dismayed the most + experienced voyageur. The whole body of the river was compressed into a + space of less than thirty feet in width, between two ledges of rocks, + upwards of two hundred feet high, and formed a whirling and tumultuous + vortex, so frightfully agitated as to receive the name of “The Caldron + Linn.” Beyond this fearful abyss, the river kept raging and roaring on, + until lost to sight among impending precipices. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0034" id="link2HCH0034"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Gloomy Council.—Exploring Parties—Discouraging Reports— + Disastrous Experiment.—Detachments in Quest of Succor.— + Caches, How Made.—Return of One of the Detachments— + Unsuccessful.—Further Disappointments—The Devil’s + Scuttle-Hole +</pre> + <p> + MR. HUNT and his companions encamped upon the borders of the Caldron Linn, + and held gloomy counsel as to their future course. The recent wreck had + dismayed even the voyageurs, and the fate of their popular comrade, + Clappine, one of the most adroit and experienced of their fraternity, had + struck sorrow to their hearts, for with all their levity, these + thoughtless beings have great kindness towards each other. + </p> + <p> + The whole distance they had navigated since leaving Henry’s Fort was + computed to be about three hundred and forty miles; strong apprehensions + were now entertained that the tremendous impediments before them would + oblige them to abandon their canoes. It was determined to send exploring + parties on each side of the river to ascertain whether it was possible to + navigate it further. Accordingly, on the following morning, three men were + despatched along the south bank, while Mr. Hunt and three others proceeded + along the north. The two parties returned after a weary scramble among + swamps, rocks, and precipices, and with very disheartening accounts. For + nearly forty miles that they had explored, the river foamed and roared + along through a deep and narrow channel, from twenty to thirty yards wide, + which it had worn, in the course of ages, through the heart of a barren, + rocky country. The precipices on each side were often two and three + hundred feet high, sometimes perpendicular, and sometimes overhanging, so + that it was impossible, excepting in one or two places, to get down to the + margin of the stream. This dreary strait was rendered the more dangerous + by frequent rapids, and occasionally perpendicular falls from ten to forty + feet in height; so that it seemed almost hopeless to attempt to pass the + canoes down it. The party, however, who had explored the south side of the + river, had found a place, about six miles from the camp, where they + thought it possible the canoes might be carried down the bank and launched + upon the stream, and from whence they might make their way with the aid of + occasional portages. Four of the best canoes were accordingly selected for + the experiment, and were transported to the place on the shoulders of + sixteen of the men. At the same time Mr. Reed, the clerk, and three men + were detached to explore the river still further down than the previous + scouting parties had been, and at the same time to look out for Indians, + from whom provisions might be obtained, and a supply of horses, should it + be found necessary to proceed by land. + </p> + <p> + The party who had been sent with the canoes returned on the following day, + weary and dejected. One of the canoes had been swept away with all the + weapons and effects of four of the voyageurs, in attempting to pass it + down a rapid by means of a line. The other three had stuck fast among the + rocks, so that it was impossible to move them; the men returned, + therefore, in despair, and declared the river unnavigable. + </p> + <p> + The situation of the unfortunate travellers was now gloomy in the extreme. + They were in the heart of an unknown wilderness, untraversed as yet by a + white man. They were at a loss what route to take, and how far they were + from the ultimate place of their destination, nor could they meet in these + uninhabited wilds with any human being to give them information. The + repeated accidents to their canoes had reduced their stock of provisions + to five days’ allowance, and there was now every appearance of soon having + famine added to their other sufferings. + </p> + <p> + This last circumstance rendered it more perilous to keep together than to + separate. Accordingly, after a little anxious but bewildered counsel, it + was determined that several small detachments should start off in + different directions, headed by the several partners. Should any of them + succeed in falling in with friendly Indians, within a reasonable distance, + and obtaining a supply of provisions and horses, they were to return to + the aid of the main body: otherwise they were to shift for themselves, and + shape their course according to circumstances; keeping the mouth of the + Columbia River as the ultimate point of their wayfaring. Accordingly, + three several parties set off from the camp at Caldron Linn, in opposite + directions. Mr. M’Lellan, with three men, kept down along the bank of the + river. Mr. Crooks, with five others, turned their steps up it; retracing + by land the weary course they had made by water, intending, should they + not find relief nearer at hand, to keep on until they should reach Henry’s + Fort, where they hoped to find the horses they had left there, and to + return with them to the main body. + </p> + <p> + The third party, composed of five men, was headed by Mr. M’Kenzie, who + struck to the northward, across the desert plains, in hopes of coming upon + the main stream of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + Having seen these three adventurous bands depart upon their forlorn + expeditions, Mr. Hunt turned his thoughts to provide for the subsistence + of the main body left to his charge, and to prepare for their future + march. There remained with him thirty-one men, besides the squaw and two + children of Pierre Dorion. There was no game to be met with in the + neighborhood; but beavers were occasionally trapped about the river banks, + which afforded a scanty supply of food; in the meantime they comforted + themselves that some one or other of the foraging detachments would be + successful, and return with relief. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt now set to work with all diligence, to prepare caches, in which + to deposit the baggage and merchandise, of which it would be necessary to + disburden themselves, preparatory to their weary march by land: and here + we shall give a brief description of those contrivances, so noted in the + wilderness. + </p> + <p> + A cache is a term common among traders and hunters, to designate a + hiding-place for provisions and effects. It is derived from the French + word “cacher”, to conceal, and originated among the early colonists of + Canada and Louisiana; but the secret depository which it designates was in + use among the aboriginals long before the intrusion of the white men. It + is, in fact, the only mode that migratory hordes have of preserving their + valuables from robbery, during their long absences from their villages or + accustomed haunts, on hunting expeditions, or during the vicissitudes of + war. The utmost skill and caution are required to render these places of + concealment invisible to the lynx eye of an Indian. The first care is to + seek out a proper situation, which is generally some dry, low, bank of + clay, on the margin of a water-course. As soon as the precise spot is + pitched upon, blankets, saddle-cloths, and other coverings are spread over + the surrounding grass and bushes, to prevent foot-tracks, or any other + derangement; and as few hands as possible are employed. A circle of about + two feet in diameter is then nicely cut in the sod, which is carefully + removed, with the loose soil immediately beneath it, and laid aside in a + place where it will be safe from anything that may change its appearance. + The uncovered area is then digged perpendicularly to the depth of about + three feet, and is then gradually widened so as to form a conical chamber + six or seven feet deep. The whole of the earth displaced by this process, + being of a different color from that an the surface, is handed up in a + vessel, and heaped into a skin or cloth, in which it is conveyed to the + stream and thrown into the midst of the current, that it may be entirely + carried off. Should the cache not be formed in the vicinity of a stream, + the earth thus thrown up is carried to a distance, and scattered in such + manner as not to leave the minutest trace. The cave, being formed, is well + lined with dry grass, bark, sticks, and poles, and occasionally a dried + hide. The property intended to be hidden is then laid in, after having + been well aired: a hide is spread over it, and dried grass, brush, and + stones thrown in, and trampled down until the pit is filled to the neck. + The loose soil which had been put aside is then brought and rammed down + firmly, to prevent its caving in, and is frequently sprinkled with water, + to destroy the scent, lest the wolves and bears should be attracted to the + place, and root up the concealed treasure. When the neck of the cache is + nearly level with the surrounding surface, the sod is again fitted in with + the utmost exactness, and any bushes, stocks, or stones, that may have + originally been about the spot, are restored to their former places. The + blankets and other coverings are then removed from the surrounding + herbage; all tracks are obliterated; the grass is gently raised by the + hand to its natural position, and the minutest chip or straw is + scrupulously gleaned up and thrown into the stream. After all this is + done, the place is abandoned for the night, and, if all be right next + morning, is not visited again, until there be a necessity for reopening + the cache. Four men are sufficient, in this way, to conceal the amount of + three tons weight of merchandise in the course of two days. Nine caches + were required to contain the goods and baggage which Mr. Hunt found it + necessary to leave at this place. + </p> + <p> + Three days had been thus employed since the departure of the several + detachments, when that of Mr. Crooks unexpectedly made its appearance. A + momentary joy was diffused through the camp, for they supposed succor to + be at hand. It was soon dispelled. Mr. Crooks and his companions had been + completely disheartened by this retrograde march through a bleak and + barren country; and had found, computing from their progress and the + accumulating difficulties besetting every step, that it would be + impossible to reach Henry’s Fort and return to the main body in the course + of the winter. They had determined, therefore, to rejoin their comrades, + and share their lot. + </p> + <p> + One avenue of hope was thus closed upon the anxious sojourners at the + Caldron Linn; their main expectation of relief was now from the two + parties under Reed and M’Lellan, which had proceeded down the river; for, + as to Mr. M’Kenzie’s detachment, which had struck across the plains, they + thought it would have sufficient difficulty in struggling forward through + the trackless wilderness. For five days they continued to support + themselves by trapping and fishing. Some fish of tolerable size were + speared at night by the light of cedar torches; others, that were very + small, were caught in nets with fine meshes. The product of their fishing, + however, was very scanty. Their trapping was also precarious; and the + tails and bellies of the beavers were dried and put by for the journey. + </p> + <p> + At length two of the companions of Mr. Reed returned, and were hailed with + the most anxious eagerness. Their report served but to increase the + general despondency. They had followed Mr. Reed for some distance below + the point to which Mr. Hunt had explored, but had met with no Indians from + whom to obtain information and relief. The river still presented the same + furious aspect, brawling and boiling along a narrow and rugged channel, + between rocks that rose like walls. + </p> + <p> + A lingering hope, which had been indulged by some of the party, of + proceeding by water, was now finally given up: the long and terrific + strait of the river set all further progress at defiance, and in their + disgust at the place, and their vexation at the disasters sustained there, + they gave it the indignant, though not very decorous, appellation of the + Devil’s Scuttle Hole. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0035" id="link2HCH0035"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Determination of the Party to Proceed on Foot.—Dreary + Deserts Between Snake River and the Columbia.—Distribution + of Effects Preparatory to a March—Division of the Party.— + Rugged March Along the River.—Wild and Broken Scenery.— + Shoshonies.—Alarm of a Snake Encampment—Intercourse with + the Snakes.—Horse Dealing.—Value of a Tin Kettle.— + Sufferings From Thirst—A Horse Reclaimed.—Fortitude of an + Indian Woman.—Scarcity of Food.—Dog’s Flesh a Dainty.—News + of Mr. Crooks and His Party.—Painful Travelling Among the + Mountains.—Snow Storms.—A Dreary Mountain Prospect.—A + Bivouac During a Wintry Night.—Return to the River Bank. +</pre> + <p> + THE resolution of Mr. Hunt and his companions was now taken to set out + immediately on foot. As to the other detachments that had in a manner gone + forth to seek their fortunes, there was little chance of their return; + they would probably make their own way through the wilderness. At any + rate, to linger in the vague hope of relief from them would be to run the + risk of perishing with hunger. Besides, the winter was rapidly advancing, + and they had a long journey to make through an unknown country, where all + kinds of perils might await them. They were yet, in fact, a thousand miles + from Astoria, but the distance was unknown to them at the time: everything + before and around them was vague and conjectural, and wore an aspect + calculated to inspire despondency. + </p> + <p> + In abandoning the river, they would have to launch forth upon vast + trackless plains destitute of all means of subsistence, where they might + perish of hunger and thirst. A dreary desert of sand and gravel extends + from Snake River almost to the Columbia. Here and there is a thin and + scanty herbage, insufficient for the pasturage of horse or buffalo. + Indeed, these treeless wastes between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific + are even more desolate and barren than the naked, upper prairies on the + Atlantic side; they present vast desert tracts that must ever defy + cultivation, and interpose dreary and thirsty wilds between the + habitations of man, in traversing which the wanderer will often be in + danger of perishing. + </p> + <p> + Seeing the hopeless character of these wastes, Mr. Hunt and his companions + determined to keep along the course of the river, where they would always + have water at hand, and would be able occasionally to procure fish and + beaver, and might perchance meet with Indians, from whom they could obtain + provisions. + </p> + <p> + They now made their final preparations for the march. All their remaining + stock of provisions consisted of forty pounds of Indian corn, twenty + pounds of grease, about five pounds of portable soup, and a sufficient + quantity of dried meat to allow each man a pittance of five pounds and a + quarter, to be reserved for emergencies. This being properly distributed, + they deposited all their goods and superfluous articles in the caches, + taking nothing with them but what was indispensable to the journey. With + all their management, each man had to carry twenty pounds’ weight besides + his own articles and equipments. + </p> + <p> + That they might have the better chance of procuring subsistence in the + scanty region they were to traverse, they divided their party into two + bands. Mr. Hunt, with eighteen men, besides Pierre Dorion and his family, + was to proceed down the north side of the river, while Mr. Crooks, with + eighteen men, kept along the south side. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 9th of October, the two parties separated and set + forth on their several courses. Mr. Hunt and his companions followed along + the right bank of the river, which made its way far below them, brawling + at the foot of perpendicular precipices of solid rock, two and three + hundred feet high. For twenty-eight miles that they travelled this day, + they found it impossible to get down to the margin of the stream. At the + end of this distance they encamped for the night at a place which admitted + a scrambling descent. It was with the greatest difficulty, however, that + they succeeded in getting up a kettle of water from the river for the use + of the camp. As some rain had fallen in the afternoon, they passed the + night under the shelter of the rocks. + </p> + <p> + The next day they continued thirty-two miles to the northwest, keeping + along the river, which still ran in its deep-cut channel. Here and there a + shady beach or a narrow strip of soil, fringed with dwarf willows, would + extend for a little distance along the foot of the cliffs, and sometimes a + reach of still water would intervene like a smooth mirror between the + foaming rapids. + </p> + <p> + As through the preceding day, they journeyed on without finding, except in + one instance, any place where they could get down to the river’s edge, and + they were fain to allay the thirst caused by hard travelling, with the + water collected in the hollow of the rocks. + </p> + <p> + In the course of their march on the following morning, they fell into a + beaten horse path leading along the river, which showed that they were in + the neighborhood of some Indian village or encampment. They had not + proceeded far along it, when they met with two Shoshonies, or Snakes. They + approached with some appearance of uneasiness, and accosting Mr. Hunt, + held up a knife, which by signs they let him know they had received from + some of the white men of the advance parties. It was with some + difficulties that Mr. Hunt prevailed upon one of the savages to conduct + him to the lodges of his people. Striking into a trail or path which led + up from the river, he guided them for some distance in the prairie, until + they came in sight of a number of lodges made of straw, and shaped like + hay-stacks. Their approach, as on former occasions, caused the wildest + affright among the inhabitants. The women hid such of their children as + were too large to be carried, and too small to take care of themselves, + under straw, and, clasping their infants to their breasts, fled across the + prairie. The men awaited the approach of the strangers, but evidently in + great alarm. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt entered the lodges, and, as he was looking about, observed where + the children were concealed; their black eyes glistening like those of + snakes, from beneath the straw. He lifted up the covering to look at them; + the poor little beings were horribly frightened, and their fathers stood + trembling, as if a beast of prey were about to pounce upon their brood. + </p> + <p> + The friendly manner of Mr. Hunt soon dispelled these apprehensions; he + succeeded in purchasing some excellent dried salmon, and a dog, an animal + much esteemed as food by the natives; and when he returned to the river + one of the Indians accompanied him. He now came to where the lodges were + frequent along the banks, and, after a day’s journey of twenty-six miles + to the northwest, encamped in a populous neighborhood. Forty or fifty of + the natives soon visited the camp, conducting themselves in a very + amicable manner. They were well clad, and all had buffalo robes, which + they procured from some of the hunting tribes in exchange for salmon. + Their habitations were very comfortable; each had its pile of wormwood at + the door for fuel, and within was abundance of salmon, some fresh, but the + greater part cured. When the white men visited the lodges, however, the + women and children hid themselves through fear. Among the supplies + obtained here were two dogs, on which our travellers breakfasted, and + found them to be very excellent, well-flavored, and hearty food. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the three following days they made about sixty-three + miles, generally in a northwest direction. They met with many of the + natives in their straw-built cabins, who received them without alarm. + About their dwellings were immense quantities of the heads and skins of + salmon, the best part of which had been cured, and hidden in the ground. + The women were badly clad; the children worse; their garments were buffalo + robes, or the skins of foxes, hares, and badgers, and sometimes the skins + of ducks, sewed together, with the plumage on. Most of the skins must have + been procured by traffic with other tribes, or in distant hunting + excursions, for the naked prairies in the neighborhood afforded few + animals, excepting horses, which were abundant. There were signs of + buffaloes having been there, but a long time before. + </p> + <p> + On the 15th of November they made twenty-eight miles along the river, + which was entirely free from rapids. The shores were lined with dead + salmon, which tainted the whole atmosphere. The natives whom they met + spoke of Mr. Reed’s party having passed through that neighborhood. In the + course of the day Mr. Hunt saw a few horses, but the owners of them took + care to hurry them out of the way. All the provisions they were able to + procure were two dogs and a salmon. On the following day they were still + worse off, having to subsist on parched corn and the remains of their + dried meat. The river this day had resumed its turbulent character, + forcing its way through a narrow channel between steep rocks and down + violent rapids. They made twenty miles over a rugged road, gradually + approaching a mountain in the northwest, covered with snow, which had been + in sight for three days past. + </p> + <p> + On the 17th they met with several Indians, one of whom had a horse. Mr. + Hunt was extremely desirous of obtaining it as a pack-horse; for the men, + worn down by fatigue and hunger, found the loads of twenty pounds’ weight + which they had to carry, daily growing heavier and more galling. The + Indians, however, along this river, were never willing to part with their + horses, having none to spare. The owner of the steed in question seemed + proof against all temptation; article after article of great value in + Indian eyes was offered and refused. The charms of an old tin-kettle, + however, were irresistible, and a bargain was concluded. + </p> + <p> + A great part of the following morning was consumed in lightening the + packages of the men and arranging the load for the horse. At this + encampment there was no wood for fuel, even the wormwood on which they had + frequently depended having disappeared. For the two last days they had + made thirty miles to the northwest. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th of November, Mr. Hunt was lucky enough to purchase another + horse for his own use, giving in exchange a tomahawk, a knife, a fire + steel, and some beads and gartering. In an evil hour, however, he took the + advice of the Indians to abandon the river, and follow a road or trail + leading into the prairies. He soon had cause to regret the change. The + road led across a dreary waste, without verdure; and where there was + neither fountain, nor pool, nor running stream. The men now began to + experience the torments of thirst, aggravated by their diet of dried fish. + The thirst of the Canadian voyageurs became so insupportable as to drive + them to the most revolting means of allaying it. For twenty-five miles did + they toll on across this dismal desert, and laid themselves down at night, + parched and disconsolate, beside their wormwood fires; looking forward to + still greater sufferings on the following day. Fortunately it began to + rain in the night, to their infinite relief; the water soon collected in + puddles and afforded them delicious draughts. + </p> + <p> + Refreshed in this manner, they resumed their wayfaring as soon as the + first streaks of dawn gave light enough for them to see their path. The + rain continued all day, so that they no longer suffered from thirst, but + hunger took its place, for after travelling thirty-three miles they had + nothing to sup on but a little parched corn. + </p> + <p> + The next day brought them to the banks of a beautiful little stream, + running to the west, and fringed with groves of cottonwood and willow. On + its borders was an Indian camp, with a great many horses grazing around + it. The inhabitants, too, appeared to be better clad than usual. The scene + was altogether a cheering one to the poor half-famished wanderers. They + hastened to their lodges, but on arriving at them met with a check that at + first dampened their cheerfulness. An Indian immediately laid claim to the + horse of Mr. Hunt, saying that it had been stolen from him. There was no + disproving a fact supported by numerous bystanders, and which the horse + stealing habits of the Indians rendered but too probable; so Mr. Hunt + relinquished his steed to the claimant; not being able to retain him by a + second purchase. + </p> + <p> + At this place they encamped for the night, and made a sumptuous repast + upon fish and a couple of dogs, procured from their Indian neighbors. The + next day they kept along the river, but came to a halt after ten miles’ + march, on account of the rain. Here they again got a supply of fish and + dogs from the natives; and two of the men were fortunate enough each to + get a horse in exchange for a buffalo robe. One of these men was Pierre + Dorion, the half-breed interpreter, to whose suffering family the horse + was a timely acquisition. And here we cannot but notice the wonderful + patience, perseverance, and hardihood of the Indian women, as exemplified + in the conduct of the poor squaw of the interpreter. She was now far + advanced in her pregnancy, and had two children to take care of; one four, + and the other two years of age. The latter of course she had frequently to + carry on her back, in addition to the burden usually imposed upon the + squaw, yet she had borne all her hardships without a murmur, and + throughout this weary and painful journey had kept pace with the best of + the pedestrians. Indeed on various occasions in the course of this + enterprise, she displayed a force of character that won the respect and + applause of the white men. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt endeavored to gather some information from these Indians + concerning the country and the course of the rivers. His communications + with them had to be by signs, and a few words which he had learnt, and of + course were extremely vague. All that he could learn from them was that + the great river, the Columbia, was still far distant, but he could + ascertain nothing as to the route he ought to take to arrive at it. For + the two following days they continued westward upwards of forty miles + along the little stream, until they crossed it just before its junction + with Snake River, which they found still running to the north. Before them + was a wintry-looking mountain covered with snow on all sides. + </p> + <p> + In three days more they made about seventy miles; fording two small + rivers, the waters of which were very cold. Provisions were extremely + scarce; their chief sustenance was portable soup; a meagre diet for weary + pedestrians. + </p> + <p> + On the 27th of November the river led them into the mountains through a + rocky defile where there was scarcely room to pass. They were frequently + obliged to unload the horses to get them by the narrow places; and + sometimes to wade through the water in getting round rocks and butting + cliffs. All their food this day was a beaver which they had caught the + night before; by evening, the cravings of hunger were so sharp, and the + prospect of any supply among the mountains so faint, that they had to kill + one of the horses. “The men,” says Mr. Hunt in his journal, “find the meat + very good, and, indeed, so should I, were it not for the attachment I have + to the animal.” + </p> + <p> + Early the following day, after proceeding ten miles to the north, they + came to two lodges of Shoshonies, who seemed in nearly as great extremity + as themselves, having just killed two horses for food. They had no other + provisions excepting the seed of a weed which they gather in great + quantities, and pound fine. It resembles hemp-seed. Mr. Hunt purchased a + bag of it, and also some small pieces of horse flesh, which he began to + relish, pronouncing them “fat and tender.” + </p> + <p> + From these Indians he received information that several white men had gone + down the river, some one side, and a good many on the other; these last he + concluded to be Mr. Crooks and his party. He was thus released from much + anxiety about their safety, especially as the Indians spoke about Mr. + Crooks having one of his dogs yet, which showed that he and his men had + not been reduced to extremity of hunger. + </p> + <p> + As Mr. Hunt feared that he might be several days in passing through this + mountain defile, and run the risk of famine, he encamped in the + neighborhood of the Indians, for the purpose of bartering with them for a + horse. The evening was expended in ineffectual trials. He offered a gun, a + buffalo robe, and various other articles. The poor fellows had, probably, + like himself, the fear of starvation before their eyes. At length the + women, learning the object of his pressing solicitations and tempting + offers, set up such a terrible hue and cry that he was fairly howled and + scolded from the ground. + </p> + <p> + The next morning early, the Indians seemed very desirous to get rid of + their visitors, fearing, probably, for the safety of their horses. In + reply to Mr. Hunt’s inquiries about the mountains, they told him that he + would have to sleep but three nights more among them; and that six days’ + travelling would take him to the falls of the Columbia; information in + which he put no faith, believing it was only given to induce him to set + forward. These, he was told, were the last Snakes he would meet with, and + that he would soon come to a nation called Sciatogas. + </p> + <p> + Forward then did he proceed on his tedious journey, which, at every step, + grew more painful. The road continued for two days through narrow defiles, + where they were repeatedly obliged to unload the horses. Sometimes the + river passed through such rocky chasms and under such steep precipices + that they had to leave it, and make their way, with excessive labor, over + immense hills, almost impassable for horses. On some of these hills were a + few pine trees, and their summits were covered with snow. On the second + day of this scramble one of the hunters killed a black-tailed deer, which + afforded the half-starved travellers a sumptuous repast. Their progress + these two days was twenty-eight miles, a little to the northward of east. + </p> + <p> + The month of December set in drearily, with rain in the valleys and snow + upon the hills. They had to climb a mountain with snow to the midleg, + which increased their painful toil. A small beaver supplied them with a + scanty meal, which they eked out with frozen blackberries, haws, and + choke-cherries, which they found in the course of their scramble. Their + journey this day, though excessively fatiguing, was but thirteen miles; + and all the next day they had to remain encamped, not being able to see + half a mile ahead, on account of a snow-storm. Having nothing else to eat, + they were compelled to kill another of their horses. The next day they + resumed their march in snow and rain, but with all their efforts could + only get forward nine miles, having for a part of the distance to unload + the horses and carry the packs themselves. On the succeeding morning they + were obliged to leave the river and scramble up the hills. From the summit + of these, they got a wide view of the surrounding country, and it was a + prospect almost sufficient to make them despair. In every direction they + beheld snowy mountains, partially sprinkled with pines and other + evergreens, and spreading a desert and toilsome world around them. The + wind howled over the bleak and wintry landscape, and seemed to penetrate + to the marrow of their bones. They waded on through the snow, which at + every step was more than knee deep. + </p> + <p> + After tolling in this way all day, they had the mortification to find that + they were but four miles distant from the encampment of the preceding + night, such was the meandering of the river among these dismal hills. + Pinched with famine, exhausted with fatigue, with evening approaching, and + a wintry wild still lengthening as they advanced, they began to look + forward with sad forebodings to the night’s exposure upon this frightful + waste. Fortunately they succeeded in reaching a cluster of pines about + sunset. Their axes were immediately at work; they cut down trees, piled + them in great heaps, and soon had huge fires “to cheer their cold and + hungry hearts.” + </p> + <p> + About three o’clock in the morning it again began to snow, and at daybreak + they found themselves, as it were, in a cloud, scarcely being able to + distinguish objects at the distance of a hundred yards. Guarding + themselves by the sound of running water, they set out for the river, and + by slipping and sliding contrived to get down to its bank. One of the + horses, missing his footing, rolled down several hundred yards with his + load, but sustained no injury. The weather in the valley was less rigorous + than on the hills. The snow lay but ankle deep, and there was a quiet rain + now falling. After creeping along for six miles, they encamped on the + border of the river. Being utterly destitute of provisions, they were + again compelled to kill one of their horses to appease their famishing + hunger. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0036" id="link2HCH0036"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + An Unexpected Meeting.—Navigation in a Skin Canoe.-Strange + Fears of Suffering Men.-Hardships of Mr. Crooks and His + Comrades.—Tidings of M’Lellan.—A Retrograde March.—A Willow + Raft.—Extreme Suffering of Some of the Party—Illness of + Mr. Crooks.—Impatience of Some of the Men.—Necessity of + Leaving the Laggards Behind. +</pre> + <p> + THE wanderers had now accomplished four hundred and seventy-two miles of + their dreary journey since leaving the Caldron Linn; how much further they + had yet to travel, and what hardships to encounter, no one knew. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 6th of December, they left their dismal encampment, + but had scarcely begun their march when, to their surprise, they beheld a + party of white men coming up along the opposite bank of the river. As they + drew nearer, they were recognized for Mr. Crooks and his companions. When + they came opposite, and could make themselves heard across the murmuring + of the river, their first cry was for food; in fact, they were almost + starved. Mr. Hunt immediately returned to the camp, and had a kind of + canoe made out of the skin of the horse killed on the preceding night. + This was done after the Indian fashion, by drawing up the edges of the + skin with thongs, and keeping them distended by sticks or thwart pieces. + In this frail bark, Sardepie, one of the Canadians, carried over a portion + of the flesh of the horse to the famishing party on the opposite side of + the river, and brought back with him Mr. Crooks and the Canadian, Le + Clerc. The forlorn and wasted looks and starving condition of these two + men struck dismay to the hearts of Mr. Hunt’s followers. They had been + accustomed to each other’s appearance, and to the gradual operation of + hunger and hardship upon their frames, but the change in the looks of + these men, since last they parted, was a type of the famine and desolation + of the land; and they now began to indulge the horrible presentiment that + they would all starve together, or be reduced to the direful alternative + of casting lots! + </p> + <p> + When Mr. Crooks had appeased his hunger, he gave Mr. Hunt some account of + his wayfaring. On the side of the river along which he had kept, he had + met with but few Indians, and those were too miserably poor to yield much + assistance. For the first eighteen days after leaving the Caldron Linn, he + and his men had been confined to half a meal in twenty-four hours; for + three days following, they had subsisted on a single beaver, a few wild + cherries, and the soles of old moccasins; and for the last six days their + only animal food had been the carcass of a dog. They had been three days’ + journey further down the river than Mr. Hunt, always keeping as near to + its banks as possible, and frequently climbing over sharp and rocky ridges + that projected into the stream. At length they had arrived to where the + mountains increased in height, and came closer to the river, with + perpendicular precipices, which rendered it impossible to keep along the + stream. The river here rushed with incredible velocity through a defile + not more than thirty yards wide, where cascades and rapids succeeded each + other almost without intermission. Even had the opposite banks, therefore, + been such as to permit a continuance of their journey, it would have been + madness to attempt to pass the tumultuous current either on rafts or + otherwise. Still bent, however, on pushing forward, they attempted to + climb the opposing mountains; and struggled on through the snow for half a + day until, coming to where they could command a prospect, they found that + they were not half way to the summit, and that mountain upon mountain lay + piled beyond them, in wintry desolation. Famished and emaciated as they + were, to continue forward would be to perish; their only chance seemed to + be to regain the river, and retrace their steps up its banks. It was in + this forlorn and retrograde march that they had met Mr. Hunt and his + party. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Crooks also gave information of some others of their fellow + adventurers. He had spoken several days previously with Mr. Reed and Mr. + M’Kenzie, who with their men were on the opposite side of the river, where + it was impossible to get over to them. They informed him that Mr. M’Lellan + had struck across from the little river above the mountains, in the hope + of falling in with some of the tribe of Flatheads, who inhabit the western + skirts of the Rocky range. As the companions of Reed and M’Kenzie were + picked men, and had found provisions more abundant on their side of the + river, they were in better condition, and more fitted to contend with the + difficulties of the country, than those of Mr. Crooks, and when he lost + sight of them, were pushing onward, down the course of the river. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt took a night to revolve over his critical situation, and to + determine what was to be done. No time was to be lost; he had twenty men + and more in his own party, to provide for, and Mr. Crooks and his men to + relieve. To linger would be to starve. The idea of retracing his steps was + intolerable, and, notwithstanding all the discouraging accounts of the + ruggedness of the mountains lower down the river, he would have been + disposed to attempt them, but the depth of the snow with which they were + covered deterred him; having already experienced the impossibility of + forcing his way against such an impediment. + </p> + <p> + The only alternative, therefore, appeared to be, return and seek the + Indian bands scattered along the small rivers above the mountains. + Perhaps, from some of these he might procure horses enough to support him + until he could reach the Columbia; for he still cherished the hope of + arriving at that river in the course of the winter, though he was + apprehensive that few of Mr. Crooks’s party would be sufficiently strong + to follow him. Even in adopting this course, he had to make up his mind to + the certainty of several days of famine at the outset, for it would take + that time to reach the last Indian lodges from which he had parted, and + until they should arrive there, his people would have nothing to subsist + upon but haws and wild berries, excepting one miserable horse, which was + little better than skin and bone. + </p> + <p> + After a night of sleepless cogitation, Mr. Hunt announced to his men the + dreary alternative he had adopted, and preparations were made to take Mr. + Crooks and Le Clerc across the river, with the remainder of the meat, as + the other party were to keep up along the opposite bank. The skin canoe + had unfortunately been lost in the night; a raft was constructed + therefore, after the manner of the natives, of bundles of willows, but it + could not be floated across the impetuous current. The men were directed, + in consequence, to keep on along the river by themselves, while Mr. Crooks + and Le Clerc would proceed with Mr. Hunt. They all, then, took up their + retrograde march with drooping spirits. + </p> + <p> + In a little while, it was found that Mr. Crooks and Le Clerc were so + feeble as to walk with difficulty, so that Mr. Hunt was obliged to retard + his pace, that they might keep up with him. His men grew impatient at the + delay. They murmured that they had a long and desolate region to traverse, + before they could arrive at the point where they might expect to find + horses; that it was impossible for Crooks and Le Clerc, in their feeble + condition, to get over it; that to remain with them would only be to + starve in their company. They importuned Mr. Hunt, therefore, to leave + these unfortunate men to their fate, and think only of the safety of + himself and his party. Finding him not to be moved either by entreaties or + their clamors, they began to proceed without him, singly and in parties. + Among those who thus went off was Pierre Dorion, the interpreter. Pierre + owned the only remaining horse; which was now a mere skeleton. Mr. Hunt + had suggested, in their present extremity, that it should be killed for + food; to which the half-breed flatly refused his assent, and cudgeling the + miserable animal forward, pushed on sullenly, with the air of a man + doggedly determined to quarrel for his right. In this way Mr. Hunt saw his + men, one after another, break away, until but five remained to bear him + company. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning another raft was made, on which Mr. Crooks and Le + Clerc again attempted to ferry themselves across the river, but after + repeated trials had to give up in despair. This caused additional delay; + after which they continued to crawl forward at a snail’s pace. Some of the + men who had remained with Mr. Hunt now became impatient of these + incumbrances, and urged him clamorously to push forward, crying out that + they should all starve. The night which succeeded was intensely cold, so + that one of the men was severely frost-bitten. In the course of the night, + Mr. Crooks was taken ill, and in the morning was still more incompetent to + travel. Their situation was now desperate, for their stock of provisions + was reduced to three beaver skins. Mr. Hunt, therefore, resolved to push + on, overtake his people, and insist upon having the horse of Pierre Dorion + sacrificed for the relief of all hands. Accordingly, he left two of his + men to help Crooks and Le Clerc on their way, giving them two of the + beaver skins for their support; the remaining skin he retained, as + provision for himself and the three other men who struck forward with him. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0037" id="link2HCH0037"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Mr. Hunt Overtakes the Advance Party.—Pierre Dorion, and + His Skeleton Horse.—A Shoshonie Camp.—A Justifiable + Outrage.—Feasting on Horse Flesh.—Mr. Crooks Brought to + the Camp.—Undertakes to Relieve His Men.—The Skin Ferry- + Boat.—Frenzy of Prevost.—His Melancholy Fate.-Enfeebled + State of John Day.-Mr. Crooks Again Left Behind.-The Party + Emerge From Among the Mountains.—Interview With Shoshonies.— + A Guide Procured to Conduct the Party Across a Mountain.— + Ferriage Across Snake River.—Reunion With Mr Crook’s Men.— + Final Departure From the River. +</pre> + <p> + ALL that day, Mr. Hunt and his three comrades travelled without eating. At + night they made a tantalizing supper on their beaver skin, and were nearly + exhausted by hunger and cold. The next day, December 10th, they overtook + the advance party, who were all as much famished as themselves, some of + them not having eaten since the morning of the seventh. Mr. Hunt now + proposed the sacrifice of Pierre Dorion’s skeleton horse. Here he again + met with positive and vehement opposition from the half-breed, who was too + sullen and vindictive a fellow to be easily dealt with. What was singular, + the men, though suffering such pinching hunger, interfered in favor of the + horse. + </p> + <p> + They represented that it was better to keep on as long as pos-sible + without resorting to this last resource. Possibly the Indians, of whom + they were in quest, might have shifted their encampment, in which case it + would be time enough to kill the horse to escape starvation. Mr. Hunt, + therefore, was prevailed upon to grant Pierre Dorion’s horse a reprieve. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately, they had not proceeded much further, when, towards evening, + they came in sight of a lodge of Shoshonies, with a number of horses + grazing around it. The sight was as unexpected as it was joyous. Having + seen no Indians in this neighborhood as they passed down the river, they + must have subsequently come out from among the mountains. Mr. Hunt, who + first descried them, checked the eagerness of his companions, knowing the + unwillingness of these Indians to part with their horses, and their + aptness to hurry them off and conceal them, in case of an alarm. This was + no time to risk such a disappointment. Approaching, therefore, stealthily + and silently, they came upon the savages by surprise, who fled in terror. + Five of their horses were eagerly seized, and one was despatched upon the + spot. The carcass was immediately cut up, and a part of it hastily cooked + and ravenously devoured. A man was now sent on horseback with a supply of + the flesh to Mr. Crooks and his companions. He reached them in the night; + they were so famished that the supply sent them seemed but to aggravate + their hunger, and they were almost tempted to kill and eat the horse that + had brought the messenger. Availing themselves of the assistance of the + animal, they reached the camp early in the morning. + </p> + <p> + On arriving there, Mr. Crooks was shocked to find that, while the people + on this side of the river were amply supplied with provisions, none had + been sent to his own forlorn and famishing men on the opposite bank. He + immediately caused a skin canoe to be constructed, and called out to his + men to fill their camp-kettles with water and hang them over the fire, + that no time might be lost in cooking the meat the moment it should be + received. The river was so narrow, though deep, that everything could be + distinctly heard and seen across it. The kettles were placed on the fire, + and the water was boiling by the time the canoe was completed. When all + was ready, however, no one would undertake to ferry the meat across. A + vague and almost superstitious terror had infected the minds of Mr. Hunt’s + followers, enfeebled and rendered imaginative of horrors by the dismal + scenes and sufferings through which they had passed. They regarded the + haggard crew, hovering like spectres of famine on the opposite bank, with + indefinite feelings of awe and apprehension: as if something desperate and + dangerous was to be feared from them. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Crooks tried in vain to reason or shame them out of this singular + state of mind. He then attempted to navigate the canoe himself, but found + his strength incompetent to brave the impetuous current. The good feelings + of Ben Jones, the Kentuckian, at length overcame his fears, and he + ventured over. The supply he brought was received with trembling avidity. + A poor Canadian, however, named Jean Baptiste Prevost, whom famine had + rendered wild and desperate, ran frantically about the bank, after Jones + had returned, crying out to Mr. Hunt to send the canoe for him, and take + him from that horrible region of famine, declaring that otherwise he would + never march another step, but would lie down there and die. + </p> + <p> + The canoe was shortly sent over again, under the management of Joseph + Delaunay, with further supplies. Prevost immediately pressed forward to + embark. Delaunay refused to admit him, telling him that there was now a + sufficient supply of meat on his side of the river. He replied that it was + not cooked, and he should starve before it was ready; he implored, + therefore, to be taken where he could get something to appease his hunger + immediately. Finding the canoe putting off without him, he forced himself + aboard. As he drew near the opposite shore, and beheld meat roasting + before the fire, he jumped up, shouted, clapped his hands, and danced in a + delirium of joy, until he upset the canoe. The poor wretch was swept away + by the current and drowned, and it was with extreme difficulty that + Delaunay reached the shore. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt now sent all his men forward excepting two or three. In the + evening he caused another horse to be killed, and a canoe to be made out + of the skin, in which he sent over a further supply of meat to the + opposite party. The canoe brought back John Day, the Kentucky hunter, who + came to join his former employer and commander, Mr. Crooks. Poor Day, once + so active and vigorous, was now reduced to a condition even more feeble + and emaciated than his companions. Mr. Crooks had such a value for the + man, on account of his past services and faithful character, that he + determined not to quit him; he exhorted Mr. Hunt, however, to proceed + forward, and join the party, as his presence was all important to the + conduct of the expedition. One of the Canadians, Jean Baptiste Dubreuil, + likewise remained with Mr. Crooks. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt left two horses with them, and a part of the carcass of the last + that had been killed. This, he hoped, would be sufficient to sustain them + until they should reach the Indian encampment. + </p> + <p> + One of the chief dangers attending the enfeebled condition of Mr. Crooks + and his companions was their being overtaken by the Indians whose horses + had been seized, though Mr. Hunt hoped that he had guarded against any + resentment on the part of the savages, by leaving various articles in + their lodge, more than sufficient to compensate for the outrage he had + been compelled to commit. + </p> + <p> + Resuming his onward course, Mr. Hunt came up with his people in the + evening. The next day, December 13th, he beheld several Indians, with + three horses, on the opposite side of the river, and after a time came to + the two lodges which he had seen on going down. Here he endeavored in vain + to barter a rifle for a horse, but again succeeded in effecting the + purchase with an old tin kettle, aided by a few beads. + </p> + <p> + The two succeeding days were cold and stormy; the snow was augmenting, and + there was a good deal of ice running in the river. Their road, however, + was becoming easier; they were getting out of the hills, and finally + emerged into the open country, after twenty days of fatigue, famine, and + hardship of every kind, in the ineffectual attempt to find a passage down + the river. + </p> + <p> + They now encamped on a little willowed stream, running from the east, + which they had crossed on the 26th of November. Here they found a dozen + lodges of Shoshonies, recently arrived, who informed them that had they + persevered along the river, they would have found their difficulties + augment until they became absolutely insurmountable. This intelligence + added to the anxiety of Mr. Hunt for the fate of Mr. M’Kenzie and his + people, who had kept on. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt now followed up the little river, and encamped at some lodges of + Shoshonies, from whom he procured a couple of horses, a dog, a few dried + fish, and some roots and dried cherries. Two or three days were exhausted + in obtaining information about the route, and what time it would take to + get to the Sciatogas, a hospitable tribe on the west of the mountains, + represented as having many horses. The replies were various, but concurred + in saying that the distance was great, and would occupy from seventeen to + twenty-one nights. Mr. Hunt then tried to procure a guide; but though he + sent to various lodges up and down the river, offering articles of great + value in Indian estimation, no one would venture. The snow, they said, was + waist deep in the mountains; and to all his offers they shook their heads, + gave a shiver, and replied, “we shall freeze! we shall freeze!” at the + same time they urged him to remain and pass the winter among them. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt was in a dismal dilemma. To attempt the mountains without a guide + would be certain death to him and all his people; to remain there, after + having already been so long on the journey, and at such great expense, was + worse to him, he said, than two “deaths.” He now changed his tone with the + Indians, charged them with deceiving him in respect to the mountains, and + talking with a “forked tongue,” or, in other words, with lying. He + upbraided them with their want of courage, and told them they were women, + to shrink from the perils of such a journey. At length one of them, piqued + by his taunts, or tempted by his offers, agreed to be his guide; for which + he was to receive a gun, a pistol, three knives, two horses, and a little + of every article in possession of the party; a reward sufficient to make + him one of the wealthiest of his vagabond nation. + </p> + <p> + Once more, then, on the 21st of December, they set out upon their + wayfaring, with newly excited spirits. Two other Indians accompanied their + guide, who led them immediately back to Snake River, which they followed + down for a short distance, in search of some Indian rafts made of reeds, + on which they might cross. Finding none, Mr. Hunt caused a horse to be + killed, and a canoe to be made out of its skin. Here, on the opposite + bank, they saw the thirteen men of Mr. Crooks’s party, who had continued + up along the river. They told Mr. Hunt, across the stream, that they had + not seen Mr. Crooks, and the two men who had remained with him, since the + day that he had separated from them. + </p> + <p> + The canoe proving too small, another horse was killed, and the skin of it + joined to that of the first. Night came on before the little bark had made + more than two voyages. Being badly made it was taken apart and put + together again, by the light of the fire. The night was cold; the men were + weary and disheartened with such varied and incessant toil and hardship. + They crouched, dull and drooping, around their fires; many of them began + to express a wish to remain where they were for the winter. The very + necessity of crossing the river dismayed some of them in their present + enfeebled and dejected state. It was rapid and turbulent, and filled with + floating ice, and they remembered that two of their comrades had already + perished in its waters. Others looked forward with misgivings to the long + and dismal journey through lonesome regions that awaited them, when they + should have passed this dreary flood. + </p> + <p> + At an early hour of the morning, December 23d, they began to cross the + river. Much ice had formed during the night, and they were obliged to + break it for some distance on each shore. At length they all got over in + safety to the west side; and their spirits rose on having achieved this + perilous passage. Here they were rejoined by the people of Mr. Crooks, who + had with them a horse and a dog, which they had recently procured. The + poor fellows were in the most squalid and emaciated state. Three of them + were so completely prostrated in strength and spirits that they expressed + a wish to remain among the Snakes. Mr. Hunt, therefore, gave them the + canoe, that they might cross the river, and a few articles, with which to + procure necessities, until they should meet with Mr. Crooks. There was + another man, named Michael Carriere, who was almost equally reduced, but + he determined to proceed with his comrades, who were now incorporated with + the party of Mr. Hunt. After the day’s exertions they encamped together on + the banks of the river. This was the last night they were to spend upon + its borders. More than eight hundred miles of hard travelling, and many + weary days, had it cost them; and the sufferings connected with it + rendered it hateful in their remembrance, so that the Canadian voyageurs + always spoke of it as “La maudite riviere enragee”—the accursed mad + river—thus coupling a malediction with its name. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0038" id="link2HCH0038"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVII + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure From Snake River—Mountains to the North.—Wayworn + Travellers—An Increase of the Dorion Family.—A Camp of + Shoshonies.—A New-Year Festival Among the Snakes.—A Wintry + March Through the Mountains.—A Sunny Prospect, and Milder + Climate.—Indian Horse-Tracks.—Grassy Valleys.—A Camp of + Sciatogas.—Joy of the Travellers.-Dangers of Abundance.— + Habits of the Sciatogas.—Fate of Carriere.—The Umatilla.— + Arrival at the Banks of the Columbia.—Tidings of the + Scattered Members of the Expedition.—Scenery on the + Columbia.—Tidings of Astoria-Arrival at the Falls. +</pre> + <p> + ON the 24th of December, all things being arranged, Mr. Hunt turned his + back upon the disastrous banks of Snake River, and struck his course + westward for the mountains. His party, being augmented by the late + followers of Mr. Crooks, amounted now to thirty-two white men, three + Indians, and the squaw and two children of Pierre Dorion. Five jaded, + half-starved horses were laden with their luggage, and, in case of need, + were to furnish them with provisions. They travelled painfully about + fourteen miles a day, over plains and among hills, rendered dreary by + occasional falls of snow and rain. Their only sustenance was a scanty meal + of horse flesh once in four-and-twenty hours. + </p> + <p> + On the third day the poor Canadian, Carriere, one of the famished party of + Mr. Crooks, gave up in despair, and laying down upon the ground declared + he could go no further. Efforts were made to cheer him up, but it was + found that the poor fellow was absolutely exhausted and could not keep on + his legs. He was mounted, therefore, upon one of the horses, though the + forlorn animal was in little better plight than himself. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th, they came upon a small stream winding to the north, through a + fine level valley; the mountains receding on each side. Here their Indian + friends pointed out a chain of woody mountains to the left, running north + and south, and covered with snow, over which they would have to pass. They + kept along the valley for twenty-one miles on the 29th, suffering much + from a continued fall of snow and rain, and being twice obliged to ford + the icy stream. Early in the following morning the squaw of Pierre Dorion, + who had hitherto kept on without murmuring or flinching, was suddenly + taken in labor, and enriched her husband with another child. As the + fortitude and good conduct of the poor woman had gained for her the + goodwill of the party, her situation caused concern and perplexity. + Pierre, however, treated the matter as an occurrence that could soon be + arranged and need cause no delay. He remained by his wife in the camp, + with his other children and his horse, and promised soon to rejoin the + main body, who proceeded on their march. + </p> + <p> + Finding that the little river entered the mountains, they abandoned it, + and turned off for a few miles among hills. Here another Canadian, named + La Bonte, gave out, and had to be helped on horseback. As the horse was + too weak to bear both him and his pack, Mr. Hunt took the latter upon his + own shoulders. Thus, with difficulties augmenting at every step, they + urged their toilsome way among the hills, half famished and faint at + heart, when they came to where a fair valley spread out before them, of + great extent and several leagues in width, with a beautiful stream + meandering through it. A genial climate seemed to prevail here, for though + the snow lay upon all the mountains within sight, there was none to be + seen in the valley. The travellers gazed with delight upon this serene, + sunny landscape, but their joy was complete on beholding six lodges of + Shoshonies pitched upon the borders of the stream, with a number of horses + and dogs about them. They all pressed forward with eagerness and soon + reached the camp. Here their first attention was to obtain provisions. A + rifle, an old musket, a tomahawk, a tin kettle, and a small quantity of + ammunition soon procured them four horses, three dogs, and some roots. + Part of the live stock was immediately killed, cooked with all expedition, + and as promptly devoured. A hearty meal restored every one to good + spirits. In the course of the following morning the Dorion family made its + reappearance. Pierre came trudging in the advance, followed by his valued, + though skeleton steed, on which was mounted his squaw with her new-born + infant in her arms, and her boy of two years old wrapped in a blanket and + slung at her side. The mother looked as unconcerned as if nothing had + happened to her; so easy is nature in her operations in the wilderness, + when free from the enfeebling refinements of luxury, and the tamperings + and appliances of art. + </p> + <p> + The next morning ushered in the new year (1812). Mr. Hunt was about to + resume his march, when his men requested permission to celebrate the day. + This was particularly urged by the Canadian voyageurs, with whom + New-Year’s day is a favorite festival; and who never willingly give up a + holiday, under any circumstances. There was no resisting such an + application; so the day was passed in repose and revelry; the poor + Canadians contrived to sing and dance in defiance of all their hardships; + and there was a sumptuous New-Year’s banquet of dog’s meat and horse + flesh. + </p> + <p> + After two days of welcome rest, the travellers addressed themselves once + more to the painful journey. The Indians of the lodges pointed out a + distant gap through which they must pass in traversing the ridge of + mountains. They assured them that they would be but little incommoded by + snow, and in three days would arrive among the Sciatogas. Mr. Hunt, + however, had been so frequently deceived by Indian accounts of routes and + distances, that he gave but little faith to this information. + </p> + <p> + The travellers continued their course due west for five days, crossing the + valley and entering the mountains. Here the travelling became excessively + toilsome, across rough stony ridges, and amidst fallen trees. They were + often knee deep in snow, and sometimes in the hollows between the ridges + sank up to their waists. The weather was extremely cold; the sky covered + with clouds so that for days they had not a glimpse of the sun. In + traversing the highest ridge they had a wide but chilling prospect over a + wilderness of snowy mountains. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of January, however, they had crossed the dividing summit of + the chain, and were evidently under the influence of a milder climate. The + snow began to decrease; the sun once more emerged from the thick canopy of + clouds, and shone cheeringly upon them, and they caught a sight of what + appeared to be a plain, stretching out in the west. They hailed it as the + poor Israelites hailed the first glimpse of the promised land, for they + flattered themselves that this might be the great plain of the Columbia, + and that their painful pilgrimage might be drawing to a close. + </p> + <p> + It was now five days since they had left the lodges of the Shoshonies, + during which they had come about sixty miles, and their guide assured them + that in the course of the next day they would see the Sciatogas. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning, therefore, they pushed forward with eagerness, + and soon fell upon a stream which led them through a deep narrow defile, + between stupendous ridges. Here among the rocks and precipices they saw + gangs of that mountain-loving animal, the black-tailed deer, and came to + where great tracks of horses were to be seen in all directions, made by + the Indian hunters. + </p> + <p> + The snow had entirely disappeared, and the hopes of soon coming upon some + Indian encampment induced Mr. Hunt to press on. Many of the men, however, + were so enfeebled that they could not keep up with the main body, but + lagged at intervals behind; and some of them did not arrive at the night + encampment. In the course of this day’s march the recently-born child of + Pierre Dorion died. + </p> + <p> + The march was resumed early the next morning, without waiting for the + stragglers. The stream which they had followed throughout the preceding + day was now swollen by the influx of another river; the declivities of the + hills were green and the valleys were clothed with grass. At length the + jovial cry was given of “an Indian camp!” It was yet in the distance, In + the bosom of the green valley, but they could perceive that it consisted + of numerous lodges, and that hundreds of horses were grazing the grassy + meadows around it. The prospect of abundance of horse flesh diffused + universal joy, for by this time the whole stock of travelling provisions + was reduced to the skeleton steed of Pierre Dorion, and another wretched + animal, equally emaciated, that had been repeatedly reprieved during the + journey. + </p> + <p> + A forced march soon brought the weary and hungry travellers to the camp. + It proved to be a strong party of Sciatogas and Tusche-pas. There were + thirty-four lodges, comfortably constructed of mats; the Indians, too, + were better clothed than any of the wandering bands they had hitherto met + on this side of the Rocky Mountains. Indeed, they were as well clad as the + generality of the wild hunter tribes. Each had a good buffalo or deer skin + robe; and a deer skin hunting shirt and leggins. Upwards of two thousand + horses were ranging the pastures around their encampment; but what + delighted Mr. Hunt was, on entering the lodges, to behold brass kettles, + axes, copper tea-kettles, and various other articles of civilized + manufacture, which showed that these Indians had an indirect communication + with the people of the sea-coast who traded with the whites. He made eager + inquiries of the Sciatogas, and gathered from them that the great river + (the Columbia) was but two days’ march distant, and that several white + people had recently descended it; who he hoped might prove to be M’Lellan, + M’Kenzie, and their companions. + </p> + <p> + It was with the utmost joy and the most profound gratitude to heaven, that + Mr. Hunt found himself and his band of weary and famishing wanderers thus + safely extricated from the most perilous part of their long journey, and + within the prospect of a termination of their tolls. All the stragglers + who had lagged behind arrived, one after another, excepting the poor + Canadian voyageur, Carriere. He had been seen late in the preceding + afternoon, riding behind a Snake Indian, near some lodges of that nation, + a few miles distant from the last night’s encampment; and it was expected + that he would soon make his appearance. The first object of Mr. Hunt was + to obtain provisions for his men. A little venison, of an indifferent + quality, and some roots were all that could be procured that evening; but + the next day he succeeded in purchasing a mare and colt, which were + immediately killed, and the cravings of the half-starved people in some + degree appeased. + </p> + <p> + For several days they remained in the neighborhood of these Indians, + reposing after all their hardships, and feasting upon horse flesh and + roots, obtained in subsequent traffic. Many of the people ate to such + excess as to render themselves sick, others were lame from their past + journey; but all gradually recruited in the repose and abundance of the + valley. Horses were obtained here much more readily, and at a cheaper + rate, than among the Snakes. A blanket, a knife, or a half pound of blue + beads would purchase a steed, and at this rate many of the men bought + horses for their individual use. + </p> + <p> + This tribe of Indians, who are represented as a proud-spirited race, and + uncommonly cleanly, never eat horses or dogs, nor would they permit the + raw flesh of either to be brought into their huts. They had a small + quantity of venison in each lodge, but set so high a price upon it that + the white men, in their impoverished state could not afford to purchase + it. They hunted the deer on horseback, “ringing,” or surrounding them, and + running them down in a circle. They were admirable horsemen, and their + weapons were bows and arrows, which they managed with great dexterity. + They were altogether primitive in their habits, and seemed to cling to the + usages of savage life, even when possessed of the aids of civilization. + They had axes among them, yet they generally made use of a stone mallet + wrought into the shape of a bottle, and wedges of elk horn, in splitting + their wood. Though they might have two or three brass kettles hanging, in + their lodges, yet they would frequently use vessels made of willow, for + carrying water, and would even boll their meat in them, by means of hot + stones. Their women wore caps of willow neatly worked and figured. + </p> + <p> + As Carriere, the Canadian straggler, did not make his appearance for two + or three days after the encampment in the valley two men were sent out on + horseback in search of him. They returned, however, without success. The + lodges of the Snake Indians near which he had been seen were removed, and + the could find no trace of him. Several days more elapsed, yet nothing was + seen or heard of him, or the Snake horseman, behind whom he had been last + observed. It was feared, therefore, that he had either perished through + hunger and fatigue; had been murdered by the Indians; or, being left to + himself, had mistaken some hunting tracks for the trail of the party, and + been led astray and lost. + </p> + <p> + The river on the banks of which they were encamped, emptied into the + Columbia, was called by the natives the Eu-o-tal-la, or Umatilla, and + abounded with beaver. In the course of their sojourn in the valley which + it watered, they twice shifted their camp, proceeding about thirty miles + down its course, which was to the west. A heavy fall of rain caused the + river to overflow its banks, dislodged them from their encampment, and + drowned three of their horses which were tethered in the low ground. + </p> + <p> + Further conversation with the Indians satisfied them that they were in the + neighborhood of the Columbia. The number of the white men who they said + had passed down the river, agreed with that of M’Lellan, M’Kenzie, and + their companions, and increased the hope of Mr. Hunt that they might have + passed through the wilderness with safety. + </p> + <p> + These Indians had a vague story that white men were coming to trade among + them; and they often spoke of two great men named Ke-Koosh and Jacquean, + who gave them tobacco, and smoked with them. Jacquean, they said, had a + house somewhere upon the great river. Some of the Canadians supposed they + were speaking of one Jacquean Finlay, a clerk of the Northwest Company, + and inferred that the house must be some trading post on one of the + tributary streams of the Columbia. The Indians were overjoyed when they + found this band of white men intended to return and trade with them. They + promised to use all diligence in collecting quantities of beaver skins, + and no doubt proceeded to make deadly war upon that sagacious, but + ill-fated animal, who, in general, lived in peaceful insignificance among + his Indian neighbors, before the intrusion of the white trader. On the + 20th of January, Mr. Hunt took leave of these friendly Indians, and of the + river on which they encamped, and continued westward. + </p> + <p> + At length, on the following day, the wayworn travellers lifted up their + eyes and beheld before them the long-sought waters of the Columbia. The + sight was hailed with as much transport as if they had already reached the + end of their pilgrimage; nor can we wonder at their joy. Two hundred and + forty miles had they marched, through wintry wastes and rugged mountains, + since leaving Snake River; and six months of perilous wayfaring had they + experienced since their departure from the Arickara village on the + Missouri. Their whole route by land and water from that point had been, + according to their computation, seventeen hundred and fifty-one miles, in + the course of which they had endured all kinds of hardships. In fact, the + necessity of avoiding the dangerous country of the Blackfeet had obliged + them to make a bend to the south and traverse a great additional extent of + unknown wilderness. + </p> + <p> + The place where they struck the Columbia was some distance below the + junction of its two great branches, Lewis and Clarke rivers, and not far + from the influx of the Wallah-Wallah. It was a beautiful stream, + three-quarters of a mile wide, totally free from trees; bordered in some + places with steep rocks, in others with pebbled shores. + </p> + <p> + On the banks of the Columbia they found a miserable horde of Indians, + called Akai-chies, with no clothing but a scanty mantle of the skins of + animals, and sometimes a pair of sleeves of wolf’s skin. Their lodges were + shaped like a tent, and very light and warm, being covered with mats and + rushes; besides which they had excavations in the ground, lined with mats, + and occupied by the women, who were even more slightly clad than the men. + These people subsisted chiefly by fishing; having canoes of a rude + construction, being merely the trunks of pine trees split and hollowed out + by fire. Their lodges were well stored with dried salmon, and they had + great quantities of fresh salmon trout of an excellent flavor, taken at + the mouth of the Umatilla; of which the travellers obtained a most + acceptable supply. + </p> + <p> + Finding that the road was on the north side of the river, Mr. Hunt + crossed, and continued five or six days travelling rather slowly down + along its banks, being much delayed by the straying of the horses, and the + attempts made by the Indians to steal them. They frequently passed lodges, + where they obtained fish and dogs. At one place the natives had just + returned from hunting, and had brought back a large quantity of elk and + deer meat, but asked so high a price for it as to be beyond the funds of + the travellers, so they had to content themselves with dog’s flesh. They + had by this time, however, come to consider it very choice food, superior + to horse flesh, and the minutes of the expedition speak rather exultingly + now and then, of their having made a famous “repast,” where this viand + happened to be unusually plenty. + </p> + <p> + They again learnt tidings of some of the scattered members of the + expedition, supposed to be M’Kenzie, M’Lellan, and their men, who had + preceded them down the river, and had overturned one of their canoes, by + which they lost many articles. All these floating pieces of intelligence + of their fellow adventurers, who had separated from them in the heart of + the wilderness, they received with eager interest. + </p> + <p> + The weather continued to be temperate, marking the superior softness of + the climate on this side of the mountains. For a great part of the time, + the days were delightfully mild and clear, like the serene days of October + on the Atlantic borders. The country in general, in the neighborhood of + the river, was a continual plain, low near the water, but rising + gradually; destitute of trees, and almost without shrubs or plants of any + kind, excepting a few willow bushes. After travelling about sixty miles, + they came to where the country became very hilly and the river made its + way between rocky banks and down numerous rapids. The Indians in this + vicinity were better clad and altogether in more prosperous condition than + those above, and, as Mr. Hunt thought, showed their consciousness of ease + by something like sauciness of manner. Thus prosperity is apt to produce + arrogance in savage as well as in civilized life. In both conditions, man + is an animal that will not bear pampering. + </p> + <p> + From these people Mr. Hunt for the first time received vague but deeply + interesting intelligence of that part of the enterprise which had + proceeded by sea to the mouth of the Columbia. The Indians spoke of a + number of white men who had built a large house at the mouth of the great + river, and surrounded it with palisades. None of them had been down to + Astoria themselves; but rumors spread widely and rapidly from mouth to + mouth among the Indian tribes, and are carried to the heart of the + interior by hunting parties and migratory hordes. + </p> + <p> + The establishment of a trading emporium at such a point, also, was + calculated to cause a sensation to the most remote parts of the vast + wilderness beyond the mountains. It in a manner struck the pulse of the + great vital river, and vibrated up all its tributary streams. + </p> + <p> + It is surprising to notice how well this remote tribe of savages had + learnt, through intermediate gossips, the private feelings of the + colonists at Astoria; it shows that Indians are not the incurious and + indifferent observers that they have been represented. They told Mr. Hunt + that the white people at the large house had been looking anxiously for + many of their friends, whom they had expected to descend the great river; + and had been in much affliction, fearing that they were lost. Now, + however, the arrival of him and his party would wipe away all their tears, + and they would dance and sing for joy. + </p> + <p> + On the 31st of January, Mr. Hunt arrived at the falls of the Columbia, and + encamped at the village of the Wish-ram, situated at the head of that + dangerous pass of the river called “the Long Narrows”. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0039" id="link2HCH0039"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXVIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Village of Wish-ram.—Roguery of the Inhabitants.—Their + Habitations.—Tidings of Astoria.—Of the Tonquin Massacre. + —Thieves About the Camp.—A Band of Braggarts—Embarkation.— + Arrival at Astoria.—A Joyful Reception.—Old Comrade.— + Adventures of Reed, M’Lellan, and M’Kenzie Among the Snake + River Mountains.—Rejoicing at Astoria. +</pre> + <p> + OF the village of Wish-ram, the aborigines’ fishing mart of the Columbia, + we have given some account in an early chapter of this work. The + inhabitants held a traffic in the productions of the fisheries of the + falls, and their village was the trading resort of the tribes from the + coast and from the mountains. Mr. Hunt found the inhabitants shrewder and + more intelligent than any Indians he had met with. Trade had sharpened + their wits, though it had not improved their honesty; for they were a + community of arrant rogues and freebooters. Their habitations comported + with their circumstances, and were superior to any the travellers had yet + seen west of the Rocky Mountains. In general, the dwellings of the savages + on the Pacific side of that great barrier were mere tents and cabins of + mats, or skins, or straw, the country being destitute of timber. In + Wish-ram, on the contrary, the houses were built of wood, with long + sloping roofs. The floor was sunk about six feet below the surface of the + ground, with a low door at the gable end, extremely narrow, and partly + sunk. Through this it was necessary to crawl and then to descend a short + ladder. This inconvenient entrance was probably for the purpose of + defense; there were loop-holes also under the eaves, apparently for the + discharge of arrows. The houses were large, generally containing two or + three families. Immediately within the door were sleeping places, ranged + along the walls, like berths in a ship; and furnished with pallets of + matting. These extended along one half of the building; the remaining half + was appropriated to the storing of dried fish. + </p> + <p> + The trading operations of the inhabitants of Wish-ram had given them a + wider scope of information, and rendered their village a kind of + headquarters of intelligence. Mr. Hunt was able, therefore, to collect + more distinct tidings concerning the settlement of Astoria and its + affairs. One of the inhabitants had been at the trading post established + by David Stuart on the Oakinagan, and had picked up a few words of English + there. From him, Mr. Hunt gleaned various particulars about that + establishment, as well as about the general concerns of the enterprise. + Others repeated the name of Mr. M’Kay, the partner who perished in the + massacre on board of the Tonquin, and gave some account of that melancholy + affair. They said Mr. M’Kay was a chief among the white men, and had built + a great house at the mouth of the river, but had left it and sailed away + in a large ship to the northward where he had been attacked by bad Indians + in canoes. Mr. Hunt was startled by this intelligence, and made further + inquiries. They informed him that the Indians had lashed their canoes to + the ship, and fought until they killed him and all his people. This is + another instance of the clearness with which intelligence is transmitted + from mouth to mouth among the Indian tribes. These tidings, though but + partially credited by Mr. Hunt, filled his mind with anxious forebodings. + He now endeavored to procure canoes, in which to descend the Columbia, but + none suitable for the purpose were to be obtained above the Narrows; he + continued on, therefore, the distance of twelve miles, and encamped on the + bank of the river. The camp was soon surrounded by loitering savages, who + went prowling about seeking what they might pilfer. Being baffled by the + vigilance of the guard, they endeavored to compass their ends by other + means. Towards evening, a number of warriors entered the camp in ruffling + style; painted and dressed out as if for battle, and armed with lances, + bows and arrows, and scalping knives. They informed Mr. Hunt that a party + of thirty or forty braves were coming up from a village below to attack + the camp and carry off the horses, but that they were determined to stay + with him and defend him. Mr. Hunt received them with great coldness, and, + when they had finished their story, gave them a pipe to smoke. He then + called up all hands, stationed sentinels in different quarters, but told + them to keep as vigilant an eye within the camp as without. + </p> + <p> + The warriors were evidently baffled by these precautions, and, having + smoked their pipe, and vapored off their valor, took their departure. The + farce, however, did not end here. After a little while the warriors + returned, ushering in another savage, still more heroically arrayed. This + they announced as the chief of the belligerent village, but as a great + pacificator. His people had been furiously bent upon the attack, and would + have doubtless carried it into effect, but this gallant chief had stood + forth as the friend of white men, and had dispersed the throng by his own + authority and prowess. Having vaunted this signal piece of service, there + was a significant pause; all evidently expecting some adequate reward. Mr. + Hunt again produced the pipe, smoked with the chieftain and his worthy + compeers; but made no further demonstrations of gratitude. They remained + about the camp all night, but at daylight returned, baffled and + crestfallen, to their homes, with nothing but smoke for their pains. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt now endeavored to procure canoes, of which he saw several about + the neighborhood, extremely well made, with elevated stems and sterns, + some of them capable of carrying three thousand pounds weight. He found it + extremely difficult, however, to deal with these slippery people, who + seemed much more inclined to pilfer. Notwithstanding a strict guard + maintained round the camp, various implements were stolen, and several + horses carried off. Among the latter, we have to include the + long-cherished steed of Pierre Dorion. From some wilful caprice, that + worthy pitched his tent at some distance from the main body, and tethered + his invaluable steed beside it, from whence it was abstracted in the + night, to the infinite chagrin and mortification of the hybrid + interpreter. + </p> + <p> + Having, after several days’ negotiation, procured the requisite number of + canoes, Mr. Hunt would gladly have left this thievish neighborhood, but + was detained until the 5th of February by violent head winds, accompanied + by snow and rain. Even after he was enabled to get under way, he had still + to struggle against contrary winds and tempestuous weather. The current of + the river, however, was in his favor; having made a portage at the grand + rapid, the canoes met with no further obstruction, and, on the afternoon + of the 15th of February, swept round an intervening cape, and came in + sight of the infant settlement of Astoria. After eleven months wandering + in the wilderness, a great part of the time over trackless wastes, where + the sight of a savage wigwam was a rarity, we may imagine the delight of + the poor weatherbeaten travellers, at beholding the embryo establishment, + with its magazines, habitations, and picketed bulwarks, seated on a high + point of land, dominating a beautiful little bay, in which was a + trim-built shallop riding quietly at anchor. A shout of joy burst from + each canoe at the long-wished-for sight. They urged their canoes across + the bay, and pulled with eagerness for shore, where all hands poured down + from the settlement to receive and welcome them. Among the first to greet + them on their landing, were some of their old comrades and + fellow-sufferers, who, under the conduct of Reed, M’Lellan, and M’Kenzie, + had parted from them at the Caldron Linn. These had reached Astoria nearly + a month previously, and, judging from their own narrow escape from + starvation, had given up Mr. Hunt and his followers as lost. Their + greeting was the more warm and cordial. As to the Canadian voyageurs, + their mutual felicitations, as usual, were loud and vociferous, and it was + almost ludicrous to behold these ancient “comrades” and “confreres,” + hugging and kissing each other on the river bank. + </p> + <p> + When the first greetings were over, the different bands interchanged + accounts of their several wanderings, after separating at Snake River; we + shall briefly notice a few of the leading particulars. It will be + recollected by the reader, that a small exploring detachment had proceeded + down the river, under the conduct of Mr. John Reed, a clerk of the + company; that another had set off under M’Lellan, and a third in a + different direction, under M’Kenzie. After wandering for several days + without meeting with Indians, or obtaining any supplies, they came + together fortuitously among the Snake River mountains, some distance below + that disastrous pass or strait which had received the appellation of the + Devil’s Scuttle Hole. + </p> + <p> + When thus united, their party consisted of M’Kenzie, M’Lellan, Reed, and + eight men, chiefly Canadians. Being all in the same predicament, without + horses, provisions, or information of any kind, they all agreed that it + would be worse than useless to return to Mr. Hunt and encumber him with so + many starving men, and that their only course was to extricate themselves + as soon as possible from this land of famine and misery and make the best + of their way for the Columbia. They accordingly continued to follow the + downward course of Snake River; clambering rocks and mountains, and + defying all the difficulties and dangers of that rugged defile, which + subsequently, when the snows had fallen, was found impassable by Messrs. + Hunt and Crooks. + </p> + <p> + Though constantly near to the borders of the river, and for a great part + of the time within sight of its current, one of their greatest sufferings + was thirst. The river had worn its way in a deep channel through rocky + mountains, destitute of brooks or springs. Its banks were so high and + precipitous, that there was rarely any place where the travellers could + get down to drink of its waters. Frequently they suffered for miles the + torments of Tantalus; water continually within sight, yet fevered with the + most parching thirst. Here and there they met with rainwater collected in + the hollows of the rocks, but more than once they were reduced to the + utmost extremity; and some of the men had recourse to the last expedient + to avoid perishing. + </p> + <p> + Their sufferings from hunger were equally severe. They could meet with no + game, and subsisted for a time on strips of beaver skin, broiled on the + coals. These were doled out in scanty allowances, barely sufficient to + keep up existence, and at length failed them altogether. Still they crept + feebly on, scarce dragging one limb after another, until a severe + snow-storm brought them to a pause. To struggle against it, in their + exhausted condition, was impossible, so cowering under an impending rock + at the foot of a steep mountain, they prepared themselves for that + wretched fate which seemed inevitable. + </p> + <p> + At this critical juncture, when famine stared them in the face, M’Lellan + casting up his eyes, beheld an ahsahta, or bighorn, sheltering itself + under a shelving rock on the side of the hill above them. Being in a more + active plight than any of his comrades, and an excellent marksman, he set + off to get within shot of the animal. His companions watched his movements + with breathless anxiety, for their lives depended upon his success. He + made a cautious circuit; scrambled up the hill with the utmost silence, + and at length arrived, unperceived, within a proper distance. Here + leveling his rifle he took so sure an aim, that the bighorn fell dead on + the spot; a fortunate circumstance, for, to pursue it, if merely wounded, + would have been impossible in his emaciated state. The declivity of the + hill enabled him to roll the carcass down to his companions, who were too + feeble to climb the rocks. They fell to work to cut it up; yet exerted a + remarkable self-denial for men in their starving condition, for they + contented themselves for the present with a soup made from the bones, + reserving the flesh for future repasts. This providential relief gave them + strength to pursue their journey, but they were frequently reduced to + almost equal straits, and it was only the smallness of their party, + requiring a small supply of provisions, that enabled them to get through + this desolate region with their lives. + </p> + <p> + At length, after twenty-one days of to 11 and suffering, they got through + these mountains, and arrived at a tributary stream of that branch of the + Columbia called Lewis River, of which Snake River forms the southern fork. + In this neighborhood they met with wild horses, the first they had seen + west of the Rocky Mountains. From hence they made their way to Lewis + River, where they fell in with a friendly tribe of Indians, who freely + administered to their necessities. On this river they procured two canoes, + in which they dropped down the stream to its confluence with the Columbia, + and then down that river to Astoria, where they arrived haggard and + emaciated, and perfectly in rags. + </p> + <p> + Thus, all the leading persons of Mr. Hunt’s expedition were once more + gathered together, excepting Mr. Crooks, of whose safety they entertained + but little hope, considering the feeble condition in which they had been + compelled to leave him in the heart of the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + A day was now given up to jubilee, to celebrate the arrival of Mr. Hunt + and his companions, and the joyful meeting of the various scattered bands + of adventurers at Astoria. The colors were hoisted; the guns, great and + small, were fired; there was a feast of fish, of beaver, and venison, + which relished well with men who had so long been glad to revel on horse + flesh and dogs’ meat; a genial allowance of grog was issued, to increase + the general animation, and the festivities wound up, as usual, with a + grand dance at night, by the Canadian voyageurs. * + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + *The distance from St. Louis to Astoria, by the route + travelled by Hunt and M’Kenzie, was upwards of thirty-five + hundred miles, though in a direct line it does not exceed + eighteen hundred. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0040" id="link2HCH0040"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXXIX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Scanty Fare During the Winter.—A Poor Hunting Ground.—The + Return of the Fishing Season.—The Uthlecan or Smelt.—Its + Qualities.—Vast Shoals of it.—Sturgeon.—Indian Modes of + Taking It.—The Salmon—Different Species.—Nature of the + Country About the Coast.—Forests and Forest Trees.—A + Remarkable Flowering Vine.—Animals.—Birds.—Reptiles— + Climate West of the Mountains—Mildness of the + Temperature.—Soil of the Coast and the Interior. +</pre> + <p> + THE winter passed away tranquilly at Astoria. The apprehensions of + hostility from the natives had subsided; indeed, as the season advanced, + the Indians for the most part had disappeared from the neighborhood, and + abandoned the sea-coast, so that, for want of their aid, the colonists had + at times suffered considerably for want of provisions. The hunters + belonging to the establishment made frequent and wide excursions, but with + very moderate success. There were some deer and a few bears to be found in + the vicinity, and elk in great numbers; the country, however, was so + rough, and the woods so close and entangled that it was almost impossible + to beat up the game. The prevalent rains of winter, also, rendered it + difficult for the hunter to keep his arms in order. The quantity of game, + therefore, brought in by the hunters was extremely scanty, and it was + frequently necessary to put all hands on very moderate allowance. Towards + spring, however, the fishing season commenced—the season of plenty + on the Columbia. About the beginning of February, a small kind of fish, + about six inches long, called by the natives the uthlecan, and resembling + the smelt, made its appearance at the mouth of the river. It is said to be + of delicious flavor, and so fat as to burn like a candle, for which it is + often used by the natives. It enters the river in immense shoals, like + solid columns, often extending to the depth of five or more feet, and is + scooped up by the natives with small nets at the end of poles. In this way + they will soon fill a canoe, or form a great heap upon the river banks. + These fish constitute a principal article of their food; the women drying + them and stringing them on cords. As the uthlecan is only found in the + lower part of the river, the arrival of it soon brought back the natives + to the coast; who again resorted to the factory to trade, and from that + time furnished plentiful supplies of fish. + </p> + <p> + The sturgeon makes its appearance in the river shortly after the uthlecan, + and is taken in different ways by the natives: sometimes they spear it; + but oftener they use the hook and line, and the net. Occasionally, they + sink a cord in the river by a heavy weight, with a buoy at the upper end, + to keep floating. To this cord several hooks are attached by short lines, + a few feet distant from each other, and baited with small fish. This + apparatus is often set towards night, and by the next morning several + sturgeon will be found hooked by it; for though a large and strong fish, + it makes but little resistance when ensnared. + </p> + <p> + The salmon, which are the prime fish of the Columbia, and as important to + the piscatory tribes as are the buffaloes to the hunters of the prairies, + do not enter the river until towards the latter part of May, from which + time, until the middle of August, they abound and are taken in vast + quantities, either with the spear or seine, and mostly in shallow water. + An inferior species succeeds, and continues from August to December. It is + remarkable for having a double row of teeth, half an inch long and + extremely sharp, from whence it has received the name of the dog-toothed + salmon. It is generally killed with the spear in small rivulets, and + smoked for winter provision. We have noticed in a former chapter the mode + in which the salmon are taken and cured at the falls of the Columbia; and + put tip in parcels for exportation. From these different fisheries of the + river tribes, the establishment at Astoria had to derive much of its + precarious supplies of provisions. + </p> + <p> + A year’s residence at the mouth of the Columbia, and various expeditions + in the interior, had now given the Astorians some idea of the country. The + whole coast is described as remarkably rugged and mountainous; with dense + forests of hemlock, spruce, white and red cedar, cotton-wood, white oak, + white and swamp ash, willow, and a few walnut. There is likewise an + undergrowth of aromatic shrubs, creepers, and clambering vines, that + render the forests almost impenetrable; together with berries of various + kinds, such as gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, both red and + yellow, very large and finely flavored whortleberries, cranberries, + serviceberries, blackberries, currants, sloes, and wild and choke + cherries. + </p> + <p> + Among the flowering vines is one deserving of particular notice. Each + flower is composed of six leaves or petals, about three inches in length, + of a beautiful crimson, the inside spotted with white. Its leaves, of a + fine green, are oval, and disposed by threes. This plant climbs upon the + trees without attaching itself to them; when it has reached the topmost + branches, it descends perpendicularly, and as it continues to grow, + extends from tree to tree, until its various stalks interlace the grove + like the rigging of a ship. The stems or trunks of this vine are tougher + and more flexible than willow, and are from fifty to one hundred fathoms + in length. From the fibres, the Indians manufacture baskets of such close + texture as to hold water. + </p> + <p> + The principal quadrupeds that had been seen by the colonists in their + various expeditions were the stag, fallow deer, hart, black and grizzly + bear, antelope, ahsahta or bighorn, beaver, sea and river otter, muskrat, + fox, wolf, and panther, the latter extremely rare. The only domestic + animals among the natives were horses and dogs. + </p> + <p> + The country abounded with aquatic and land birds, such as swans, wild + geese, brant, ducks of almost every description, pelicans, herons, gulls, + snipes, curlews, eagles, vultures, crows, ravens, magpies, woodpeckers, + pigeons, partridges, pheasants, grouse, and a great variety of singing + birds. + </p> + <p> + There were few reptiles; the only dangerous kinds were the rattlesnake, + and one striped with black, yellow, and white, about four feet long. Among + the lizard kind was one about nine or ten inches in length, exclusive of + the tall, and three inches in circumference. The tail was round, and of + the same length as the body. The head was triangular, covered with small + square scales. The upper part of the body was likewise covered with small + scales, green, yellow, black, and blue. Each foot had five toes, furnished + with strong nails, probably to aid it in burrowing, as it usually lived + under ground on the plains. + </p> + <p> + A remarkable fact, characteristic of the country west of the Rocky + Mountains, is the mildness and equability of the climate. The great + mountain barrier seems to divide the continent into different climates, + even in the same degrees of latitude. The rigorous winters and sultry + summers, and all the capricious inequalities of temperature prevalent on + the Atlantic side of the mountains, are but little felt on their western + declivities. The countries between them and the Pacific are blessed with + milder and steadier temperature, resembling the climates of parallel + latitudes in Europe. In the plains and valleys but little snow falls + throughout the winter, and usually melts while falling. It rarely lies on + the ground more than two days at a time, except on the summits of the + mountains. The winters are rainy rather than cold. The rains for five + months, from the middle of October to the middle of March, are almost + incessant, and often accompanied by tremendous thunder and lightning. The + winds prevalent at this season are from the south and southeast, which + usually bring rain. Those from the north to the southwest are the + harbingers of fair weather and a clear sky. The residue of the year, from + the middle of March to the middle of October, an interval of seven months, + is serene and delightful. There is scarcely any rain throughout this time, + yet the face of the country is kept fresh and verdant by nightly dews, and + occasionally by humid fogs in the mornings. These are not considered + prejudicial to health, since both the natives and the whites sleep in the + open air with perfect impunity. While this equable and bland temperature + prevails throughout the lower country, the peaks and ridges of the vast + mountains by which it is dominated, are covered with perpetual snow. This + renders them discernible at a great distance, shining at times like bright + summer clouds, at other times assuming the most aerial tints, and always + forming brilliant and striking features in the vast landscape. The mild + temperature prevalent throughout the country is attributed by some to the + succession of winds from the Pacific Ocean, extending from latitude twenty + degrees to at least fifty degrees north. These temper the heat of summer, + so that in the shade no one is incommoded by perspiration; they also + soften the rigors of winter, and produce such a moderation in the climate, + that the inhabitants can wear the same dress throughout the year. + </p> + <p> + The soil in the neighborhood of the sea-coast is of a brown color, + inclining to red, and generally poor; being a mixture of clay and gravel. + In the interior, and especially in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains, the + soil is generally blackish, though sometimes yellow. It is frequently + mixed with marl, and with marine substances in a state of decomposition. + This kind of soil extends to a considerable depth, as may be perceived in + the deep cuts made by ravines, and by the beds of rivers. The vegetation + in these valleys is much more abundant than near the coast; in fact, it is + these fertile intervals, locked up between rocky sierras, or scooped out + from barren wastes, that population must extend itself, as it were, in + veins and ramifications, if ever the regions beyond the mountains should + become civilized. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0041" id="link2HCH0041"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XL. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Natives in the Neighborhood of Astoria—Their Persons and + Characteristics.—Causes of Deformity—Their Dress.— + Their Contempt of Beards—Ornaments—Armor and Weapons.-Mode + of Flattening the Head.—Extent of the Custom.—Religious + Belief.-The Two Great Spirits of the Air and of the Fire.— + Priests or Medicine Men.—The Rival Idols.—Polygamy a Cause + of Greatness-Petty Warfare.—Music, Dancing, Gambling.— + Thieving a Virtue.—Keen Traders—Intrusive Habits— + Abhorrence of Drunkenness—Anecdote of Comcomly. +</pre> + <p> + A BRIEF mention has already been made of the tribes or hordes existing + about the lower part of the Columbia at the time of the settlement; a few + more particulars concerning them may be acceptable. The four tribes + nearest to Astoria, and with whom the traders had most intercourse, were, + as has heretofore been observed, the Chinooks, the Clatsops, the + Wahkiacums, and the Cathlamets. The Chinooks reside chiefly along the + banks of a river of the same name, running parallel to the sea-coast, + through a low country studded with stagnant pools, and emptying itself + into Baker’s Bay, a few miles from Cape Disappointment. This was the tribe + over which Comcomly, the one-eyed chieftain, held sway; it boasted two + hundred and fourteen fighting men. Their chief subsistence was on fish, + with an occasional regale of the flesh of elk and deer, and of wild-fowl + from the neighboring ponds. + </p> + <p> + The Clatsops resided on both sides of Point Adams; they were the mere + relics of a tribe which had been nearly swept off by the small-pox, and + did not number more than one hundred and eighty fighting men. + </p> + <p> + The Wahkiacums, or Waak-i-cums, inhabited the north side of the Columbia, + and numbered sixty-six warriors. They and the Chinooks were originally the + same; but a dispute arising about two generations previous to the time of + the settlement, between the ruling chief and his brother Wahkiacum, the + latter seceded, and with his adherents formed the present horde which + continues to go by his name. In this way new tribes or clans are formed, + and lurking causes of hostility engendered. + </p> + <p> + The Cathlamets lived opposite to the lower village of the Wahkiacums, and + numbered ninety-four warriors. + </p> + <p> + These four tribes, or rather clans, have every appearance of springing + from the same origin, resembling each other in person, dress, language, + and manners. They are rather a diminutive race, generally below five feet + five inches, with crooked legs and thick ankles—a deformity caused + by their passing so much of their time sitting or squatting upon the + calves of their legs and their heels, in the bottom of their canoes—a + favorite position, which they retain, even when on shore. The women + increase the deformity by wearing tight bandages round the ankles, which + prevent the circulation of the blood, and cause a swelling of the muscles + of the leg. + </p> + <p> + Neither sex can boast of personal beauty. Their faces are round, with + small but animated eyes. Their noses are broad and flat at top, and fleshy + at the end, with large nostrils. They have wide mouths, thick lips, and + short, irregular and dirty teeth. Indeed good teeth are seldom to be seen + among the tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, who live simply on fish. + </p> + <p> + In the early stages of their intercourse with white men, these savages + were but scantily clad. In summer time the men went entirely naked; in the + winter and in bad weather the men wore a small robe, reaching to the + middle of the thigh, made of the skins of animals, or of the wool of the + mountain sheep. Occasionally, they wore a kind of mantle of matting, to + keep off the rain but, having thus protected the back and shoulders, they + left the rest of the body naked. + </p> + <p> + The women wore similar robes, though shorter, not reaching below the + waist; besides which, they had a kind of petticoat, or fringe, reaching + from the waist to the knee, formed of the fibres of cedar bark, broken + into strands, or a tissue of silk grass twisted and knotted at the ends. + This was the usual dress of the women in summer; should the weather be + inclement, they added a vest of skins, similar to the robe. + </p> + <p> + The men carefully eradicated every vestige of a beard, considering it a + great deformity. They looked with disgust at the whiskers and + well-furnished chins of the white men, and in derision called them + Long-beards. Both sexes, on the other hand, cherished the hair of the + head, which with them is generally black and rather coarse. They allowed + it to grow to a great length and were very proud and careful of it, + sometimes wearing it plaited, sometimes wound round the head in fanciful + tresses. No greater affront could be offered to them than to cut off their + treasured locks. + </p> + <p> + They had conical hats with narrow rims, neatly woven of bear grass or of + the fibres of cedar bark, interwoven with designs of various shapes and + colors; sometimes merely squares and triangles, at other times rude + representations of canoes, with men fishing and harpooning. These hats + were nearly waterproof, and extremely durable. + </p> + <p> + The favorite ornaments of the men were collars of bears’ claws, the proud + trophies of hunting exploits; while the women and children wore similar + decorations of elks’ tusks. An intercourse with the white traders, + however, soon effected a change in the toilets of both sexes. They became + fond of arraying themselves in any article of civilized dress which they + could procure, and often made a most grotesque appearance. They adapted + many articles of finery, also, to their own previous tastes. Both sexes + were fond of adorning themselves with bracelets of iron, brass, or copper. + They were delighted, also, with blue and white beads, particularly the + former, and wore broad tight bands of them round the waist and ankles, + large rolls of them round the neck, and pendants of them in the ears. The + men, especially, who in savage life carry a passion for personal + decoration further than the females, did not think their gala equipments + complete unless they had a jewel of hiaqua, or wampum, dangling at the + nose. Thus arrayed, their hair besmeared with fish oil, and their bodies + bedaubed with red clay, they considered themselves irresistible. + </p> + <p> + When on warlike expeditions, they painted their faces and bodies in the + most hideous and grotesque manner, according to the universal practice of + American savages. Their arms were bows and arrows, spears, and war clubs. + Some wore a corselet of pieces of hard wood laced together with bear + grass, so as to form a light coat of mail, pliant to the body; and a kind + of casque of cedar bark, leather, and bear grass, sufficient to protect + the head from an arrow or war club. A more complete article of defensive + armor was a buff jerkin or shirt of great thickness, made of doublings of + elk skin, and reaching to the feet, holes being left for the head and + arms. This was perfectly arrowproof; add to which, it was often endowed + with charmed virtues, by the spells and mystic ceremonials of the medicine + man, or conjurer. + </p> + <p> + Of the peculiar custom, prevalent among these people, of flattening the + head, we have already spoken. It is one of those instances of human + caprice, like the crippling of the feet of females in China, which are + quite incomprehensible. This custom prevails principally among the tribes + on the sea-coast, and about the lower parts of the rivers. How far it + extends along the coast we are not able to ascertain. Some of the tribes, + both north and south of the Columbia, practice it; but they all speak the + Chinook language, and probably originated from the same stock. As far as + we can learn, the remoter tribes, which speak an entirely different + language, do not flatten the head. This absurd custom declines, also, in + receding from the shores of the Pacific; few traces of it are to be found + among the tribes of the Rocky Mountains, and after crossing the mountains + it disappears altogether. Those Indians, therefore, about the head waters + of the Columbia, and in the solitary mountain regions, who are often + called Flatheads, must not be supposed to be characterized by this + deformity. It is an appellation often given by the hunters east of the + mountain chain, to all western Indians, excepting the Snakes. + </p> + <p> + The religious belief of these people was extremely limited and confined; + or rather, in all probability, their explanations were but little + understood by their visitors. They had an idea of a benevolent and + omnipotent spirit, the creator of all things. They represent him as + assuming various shapes at pleasure, but generally that of an immense + bird. He usually inhabits the sun, but occasionally wings his way through + the aerial regions, and sees all that is doing upon earth. Should anything + displease him, he vents his wrath in terrific storms and tempests, the + lightning being the flashes of his eyes, and the thunder the clapping of + his wings. To propitiate his favor they offer to him annual sacrifices of + salmon and venison, the first fruits of their fishing and hunting. + </p> + <p> + Besides this aerial spirit they believe in an inferior one, who inhabits + the fire, and of whom they are in perpetual dread, as, though he possesses + equally the power of good and evil, the evil is apt to predominate. They + endeavor, therefore, to keep him in good humor by frequent offerings. He + is supposed also to have great influence with the winged spirit, their + sovereign protector and benefactor. They implore him, therefore, to act as + their interpreter, and procure them all desirable things, such as success + in fishing and hunting, abundance of game, fleet horses, obedient wives, + and male children. + </p> + <p> + These Indians have likewise their priests, or conjurers, or medicine men, + who pretend to be in the confidence of the deities, and the expounders and + enforcers of their will. Each of these medicine men has his idols carved + in wood, representing the spirits of the air and of the fire, under some + rude and grotesque form of a horse, a bear, a beaver, or other quadruped, + or that of bird or fish. These idols are hung round with amulets and + votive offerings, such as beavers’ teeth, and bears’ and eagles’ claws. + </p> + <p> + When any chief personage is on his death-bed, or dangerously ill, the + medicine men are sent for. Each brings with him his idols, with which he + retires into a canoe to hold a consultation. As doctors are prone to + disagree, so these medicine men have now and then a violent altercation as + to the malady of the patient, or the treatment of it. To settle this they + beat their idols soundly against each other; whichever first loses a tooth + or a claw is considered as confuted, and his votary retires from the + field. Polygamy is not only allowed, but considered honorable, and the + greater number of wives a man can maintain, the more important is he in + the eyes of the tribe. The first wife, however, takes rank of all the + others, and is considered mistress of the house. Still the domestic + establishment is liable to jealousies and cabals, and the lord and master + has much difficulty in maintaining harmony in his jangling household. + </p> + <p> + In the manuscript from which we draw many of these particulars, it is + stated that he who exceeds his neighbors in the number of his wives, male + children, and slaves, is elected chief of the village; a title to office + which we do not recollect ever before to have met with. + </p> + <p> + Feuds are frequent among these tribes, but are not very deadly. They have + occasionally pitched battles, fought on appointed days, and at specific + places, which are generally the banks of a rivulet. The adverse parties + post themselves on the opposite sides of the stream, and at such distances + that the battles often last a long while before any blood is shed. The + number of killed and wounded seldom exceed half a dozen. Should the damage + be equal on each side, the war is considered as honorably concluded; + should one party lose more than the other, it is entitled to a + compensation in slaves or other property, otherwise hostilities are liable + to be renewed at a future day. They are also given to predatory inroads + into the territories of their enemies, and sometimes of their friendly + neighbors. Should they fall upon a band of inferior force, or upon a + village, weakly defended, they act with the ferocity of true poltroons, + slaying all the men, and carrying off the women and children as slaves. As + to the property, it is packed upon horses which they bring with them for + the purpose. They are mean and paltry as warriors, and altogether inferior + in heroic qualities to the savages of the buffalo plains on the east side + of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + A great portion of their time is passed in revelry, music, dancing, and + gambling. Their music scarcely deserves the name; the instruments being of + the rudest kind. Their singing is harsh and discordant; the songs are + chiefly extempore, relating to passing circumstances, the persons present, + or any trifling object that strikes the attention of the singer. They have + several kinds of dances, some of them lively and pleasing. The women are + rarely permitted to dance with the men, but form groups apart, dancing to + the same instrument and song. + </p> + <p> + They have a great passion for play, and a variety of games. To such a + pitch of excitement are they sometimes roused, that they gamble away + everything they possess, even to their wives and children. They are + notorious thieves, also, and proud of their dexterity. He who is + frequently successful, gains much applause and popularity; but the clumsy + thief, who is detected in some bungling attempt, is scoffed at and + despised, and sometimes severely punished. + </p> + <p> + Such are a few leading characteristics of the natives in the neighborhood + of Astoria. They appear to us inferior in many respects to the tribes east + of the mountains, the bold rovers of the prairies; and to partake much of + Esquimaux character; elevated in some degree by a more genial climate and + more varied living style. + </p> + <p> + The habits of traffic engendered at the cataracts of the Columbia, have + had their influence along the coast. The Chinooks and other Indians at the + mouth of the river, soon proved themselves keen traders, and in their + early dealings with the Astorians never hesitated to ask three times what + they considered the real value of an article. They were inquisitive, also, + in the extreme, and impertinently intrusive; and were prone to indulge in + scoffing and ridicule at the expense of the strangers. + </p> + <p> + In one thing, however, they showed superior judgment and self-command to + most of their race; this was, in their abstinence from ardent spirits, and + the abhorrence and disgust with which they regarded a drunkard. On one + occasion a son of Comcomly had been induced to drink freely at the + factory, and went home in a state of intoxication, playing all kinds of + mad pranks, until he sank into a stupor, in which he remained for two + days. The old chieftain repaired to his friend, M’Dougal, with indignation + flaming in his countenance, and bitterly reproached him for having + permitted his son to degrade himself into a beast, and to render himself + an object of scorn and laughter to his slave. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0042" id="link2HCH0042"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Spring Arrangements at Astoria.—Various Expeditions Set + Out.-The Long Narrows.—Pilfering Indians.—Thievish Tribe + at Wish-ram.—Portage at the Falls—Portage by Moonlight.— + An Attack, a Route, and a Robbery.—Indian Cure for + Cowardice.—A Parley and Compromise.—The Despatch Party + Turn Back.—Meet Crooks and John Day.—Their Sufferings.— + Indian Perfidy.—Arrival at Astoria. +</pre> + <p> + AS the spring opened, the little settlement of Astoria was in agitation, + and prepared to send forth various expeditions. Several important things + were to be done. It was necessary to send a supply of goods to the trading + post of Mr. David Stuart, established in the preceding autumn on the + Oakinagan. The cache, or secret deposit, made by Mr. Hunt at the Caldron + Linn, was likewise to be visited, and the merchandise and other effects + left there, to be brought to Astoria. A third object of moment was to send + despatches overland to Mr. Astor at New York, informing him of the state + of affairs at the settlement, and the fortunes of the several expeditions. + </p> + <p> + The task of carrying supplies to Oakinagan was assigned to Mr. Robert + Stuart, a spirited and enterprising young man, nephew to the one who had + established the post. The cache was to be sought out by two of the clerks, + named Russell Farnham and Donald M’Gilles, conducted by a guide, and + accompanied by eight men, to assist in bringing home the goods. + </p> + <p> + As to the despatches, they were confided to Mr. John Reed, the clerk, the + same who had conducted one of the exploring detachments of Snake River. He + was now to trace back his way across the mountains by the same route by + which he had come, with no other companions or escort than Ben Jones, the + Kentucky hunter, and two Canadians. As it was still hoped that Mr. Crooks + might be in existence, and that Mr. Reed and his party might meet with him + in the course of their route, they were charged with a small supply of + goods and provisions, to aid that gentleman on his way to Astoria. + </p> + <p> + When the expedition of Reed was made known, Mr. M’Lellan announced his + determination to accompany it. He had long been dissatisfied with the + smallness of his interest in the copartnership, and had requested an + additional number of shares; his request not being complied with, he + resolved to abandon the company. M’Lellan was a man of a singularly + self-willed and decided character, with whom persuasion was useless; he + was permitted, therefore, to take his own course without opposition. + </p> + <p> + As to Reed, he set about preparing for his hazardous journey with the zeal + of a true Irishman. He had a tin case made, in which the letters and + papers addressed to Mr. Astor were carefully soldered up. This case he + intended to strap upon his shoulders, so as to bear it about with him, + sleeping and waking, in all changes and chances, by land or by water, and + never to part with it but with his life! + </p> + <p> + As the route of these several parties would be the same for nearly four + hundred miles up the Columbia, and within that distance would lie through + the piratical pass of the rapids, and among the freebooting tribes of the + river, it was thought advisable to start about the same time, and to keep + together. Accordingly, on the 22d of March, they all set off, to the + number of seventeen men, in two canoes—and here we cannot but pause + to notice the hardihood of these several expeditions, so insignificant in + point of force, and severally destined to traverse immense wildernesses + where larger parties had experienced so much danger and distress. When + recruits were sought in the preceding year among experienced hunters and + voyageurs at Montreal and St. Louis, it was considered dangerous to + attempt to cross the Rocky Mountains with less than sixty men; and yet + here we find Reed ready to push his way across those barriers with merely + three companions. Such is the fearlessness, the insensibility to danger, + which men acquire by the habitude of constant risk. The mind, like the + body, becomes callous by exposure. + </p> + <p> + The little associated band proceeded up the river, under the command of + Mr. Robert Stuart, and arrived early in the month of April at the Long + Narrows, that notorious plundering place. Here it was necessary to unload + the canoes, and to transport both them and their cargoes to the head of + the Narrows by land. Their party was too few in number for the purpose. + They were obliged, therefore, to seek the assistance of the Cathlasco + Indians, who undertook to carry the goods on their horses. Forward then + they set, the Indians with their horses well freighted, and the first load + convoyed by Reed and five men, well armed; the gallant Irishman striding + along at the head, with his tin case of despatches glittering on his back. + In passing, however, through a rocky and intricate defile, some of the + freebooting vagrants turned their horses up a narrow path and galloped + off, carrying with them two bales of goods, and a number of smaller + articles. To follow them was useless; indeed, it was with much ado that + the convoy got into port with the residue of the cargoes; for some of the + guards were pillaged of their knives and pocket handkerchiefs, and the + lustrous tin case of Mr. John Reed was in imminent jeopardy. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart heard of these depredations, and hastened forward to the relief + of the convoy, but could not reach them before dusk, by which time they + had arrived at the village of Wish-ram, already noted for its great + fishery, and the knavish propensities of its inhabitants. Here they found + themselves benighted in a strange place, and surrounded by savages bent on + pilfering, if not upon open robbery. Not knowing what active course to + take, they remained under arms all night, without closing an eye, and at + the very first peep of dawn, when objects were yet scarce visible, + everything was hastily embarked, and, without seeking to recover the + stolen effects, they pushed off from shore, “glad to bid adieu,” as they + said, “to this abominable nest of miscreants.” + </p> + <p> + The worthies of Wish-ram, however, were not disposed to part so easily + with their visitors. Their cupidity had been quickened by the plunder + which they had already taken, and their confidence increased by the + impunity with which their outrage had passed. They resolved, therefore, to + take further toll of the travellers, and, if possible, to capture the tin + case of despatches; which shining conspicuously from afar, and being + guarded by John Reed with such especial care, must, as they supposed, be + “a great medicine.” + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, Mr. Stuart and his comrades had not proceeded far in the + canoes, when they beheld the whole rabble of Wishram stringing in groups + along the bank, whooping and yelling, and gibbering in their wild jargon, + and when they landed below the falls, they were surrounded by upwards of + four hundred of these river ruffians, armed with bows and arrows, war + clubs, and other savage weapons. These now pressed forward, with offers to + carry the canoes and effects up the portage. Mr Stuart declined forwarding + the goods, alleging the lateness of the hour; but, to keep them in good + humor, informed them, that, if they conducted themselves well, their + offered services might probably be accepted in the morning; in the + meanwhile, he suggested that they might carry up the canoes. They + accordingly set off with the two canoes on their shoulders, accompanied by + a guard of eight men well armed. + </p> + <p> + When arrived at the head of the falls, the mischievous spirit of the + savages broke out, and they were on the point of destroying the canoes, + doubtless with a view to impede the white men from carrying forward their + goods, and laying them open to further pilfering. They were with some + difficulty prevented from committing this outrage by the interference of + an old man, who appeared to have authority among them; and, in consequence + of his harangue, the whole of the hostile band, with the exception of + about fifty, crossed to the north side of the river, where they lay in + wait, ready for further mischief. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, Mr. Stuart, who had remained at the foot of the falls + with the goods, and who knew that the proffered assistance of the savages + was only for the purpose of having an opportunity to plunder, determined, + if possible, to steal a march upon them, and defeat their machinations. In + the dead of the night, therefore, about one o’clock, the moon shining + brightly, he roused his party, and proposed that they should endeavor to + transport the goods themselves, above the falls, before the sleeping + savages could be aware of their operations. All hands sprang to the work + with zeal, and hurried it on in the hope of getting all over before + daylight. Mr. Stuart went forward with the first loads, and took his + station at the head of the portage, while Mr. Reed and Mr. M’Lellan + remained at the foot to forward the remainder. + </p> + <p> + The day dawned before the transportation was completed. Some of the fifty + Indians who had remained on the south side of the river, perceived what + was going on, and, feeling themselves too weak for an attack, gave the + alarm to those on the opposite side, upwards of a hundred of whom embarked + in several large canoes. Two loads of goods yet remained to be brought up. + Mr. Stuart despatched some of the people for one of the loads, with a + request to Mr. Reed to retain with him as many of the men as he thought + necessary to guard the remaining load, as he suspected hostile intentions + on the part of the Indians. Mr. Reed, however, refused to retain any of + them, saying that M’Lellan and himself were sufficient to protect the + small quantity that remained. The men accordingly departed with the load, + while Mr. Reed and M’Lellan continued to mount guard over the residue. By + this time, a number of the canoes had arrived from the opposite side. As + they approached the shore, the unlucky tin box of John Reed, shining afar + like the brilliant helmet of Euryalus, caught their eyes. No sooner did + the canoes touch the shore, than they leaped forward on the rocks, set up + a war-whoop, and sprang forward to secure the glittering prize. Mr. + M’Lellan, who was at the river bank, advanced to guard the goods, when one + of the savages at tempted to hoodwink him with his buffalo robe with one + hand, and to stab him with the other. M’Lellan sprang back just far enough + to avoid the blow, and raising his rifle, shot the ruffian through the + heart. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, Reed, who with the want of forethought of an Irishman, + had neglected to remove the leathern cover from the lock of his rifle, was + fumbling at the fastenings, when he received a blow on the head with a war + club that laid him senseless on the ground. In a twinkling he was stripped + of his rifle and pistols, and the tin box, the cause of all this + onslaught, was borne off in triumph. + </p> + <p> + At this critical juncture, Mr. Stuart, who had heard the war-whoop, + hastened to the scene of action with Ben Jones, and seven others of the + men. When he arrived, Reed was weltering in his blood, and an Indian + standing over him and about to despatch him with a tomahawk. Stuart gave + the word, when Ben Jones leveled his rifle, and shot the miscreant on the + spot. The men then gave a cheer, and charged upon the main body of the + savages, who took to instant flight. Reed was now raised from the ground, + and borne senseless and bleeding to the upper end of the portage. + Preparations were made to launch the canoes and embark in all haste, when + it was found that they were too leaky to be put in the water, and that the + oars had been left at the foot of the falls. A scene of confusion now + ensued. The Indians were whooping and yelling, and running about like + fiends. A panic seized upon the men, at being thus suddenly checked, the + hearts of some of the Canadians died within them, and two young men + actually fainted away. The moment they recovered their senses, Mr. Stuart + ordered that they should be deprived of their arms, their under garments + taken off, and that a piece of cloth should be tied round their waists, in + imitation of a squaw; an Indian punishment for cowardice. Thus equipped, + they were stowed away among the goods in one of the canoes. This ludicrous + affair excited the mirth of the bolder spirits, even in the midst of their + perils, and roused the pride of the wavering. The Indians having crossed + back again to the north side, order was restored, some of the hands were + sent back for the oars, others set to work to calk and launch the canoes, + and in a little while all were embarked and were continuing their voyage + along the southern shore. + </p> + <p> + No sooner had they departed, than the Indians returned to the scene of + action, bore off their two comrades who had been shot, one of whom was + still living, and returned to their village. Here they killed two horses; + and drank the hot blood to give fierceness to their courage. They painted + and arrayed themselves hideously for battle; performed the dead dance + round the slain, and raised the war song of vengeance. Then mounting their + horses to the number of four hundred and fifty men, and brandishing their + weapons, they set off along the northern bank of the river, to get ahead + of the canoes, lie in wait for them, and take a terrible revenge on the + white men. + </p> + <p> + They succeeded in getting some distance above the canoes without being + discovered, and were crossing the river to post themselves on the side + along which the white men were coasting, when they were fortunately + descried. Mr. Stuart and his companions were immediately on the alert. As + they drew near to the place where the savages had crossed, they observed + them posted among steep and overhanging rocks, close along which, the + canoes would have to pass. Finding that the enemy had the advantage of the + ground, the whites stopped short when within five hundred yards of them, + and discharged and reloaded their pieces. They then made a fire, and + dressed the wounds of Mr. Reed, who had received five severe gashes in the + head. This being done, they lashed the canoes together, fastened them to a + rock at a small distance from the shore, and there awaited the menaced + attack. + </p> + <p> + They had not been long posted in this manner, when they saw a canoe + approaching. It contained the war-chief of the tribe, and three of his + principal warriors. He drew near, and made a long harangue, in which he + informed them that they had killed one and wounded another of his nation; + that the relations of the slain cried out for vengeance, and he had been + compelled to lead them to fight. Still he wished to spare unnecessary + bloodshed; he proposed, therefore, that Mr. Reed, who, he observed, was + little better than a dead man, might be given up to be sacrificed to the + manes of the deceased warrior. This would appease the fury of his friends; + the hatchet would then be buried, and all thenceforward would be friends. + The answer was a stern refusal and a defiance, and the war-chief saw that + the canoes were well prepared for a vigorous defense. He withdrew, + therefore, and returning to his warriors among the rocks held long + deliberations. Blood for blood is a principle in Indian equity and Indian + honor; but though the inhabitants of Wish-ram were men of war, they were + likewise men of traffic, and it was suggested that honor for once might + give way to profit. A negotiation was accordingly opened with the white + men, and after some diplomacy, the matter was compromised for a blanket to + cover the dead, and some tobacco to be smoked by the living. This being + granted, the heroes of Wish-ram crossed the river once more, returned to + their villages to feast upon the horses whose blood they had so + vaingloriously drunk, and the travellers pursued their voyage without + further molestation. + </p> + <p> + The tin case, however, containing the important despatches for New York, + was irretrievably lost; the very precaution taken by the worthy Hibernian + to secure his missives, had, by rendering them conspicuous, produced their + robbery. The object of his overland journey, therefore, being defeated, he + gave up the expedition. The whole party repaired with Mr. Robert Stuart to + the establishment of Mr. David Stuart, on the Oakinagan River. After + remaining here two or three days, they all set out on their return to + Astoria accompanied by Mr. David Stuart. This gentleman had a large + quantity of beaver skins at his establishment, but did not think it + prudent to take them with him fearing the levy of “black mail” at the + falls. + </p> + <p> + On their way down, when below the forks of the Columbia, they were hailed + one day from the shore in English. Looking around, they descried two + wretched men, entirely naked. They pulled to shore; the men came up and + made themselves known. They proved to be Mr. Crooks and his faithful + follower, John Day. + </p> + <p> + The reader will recollect that Mr. Crooks, with Day and four Canadians, + had been so reduced by famine and fatigue, that Mr. Hunt was obliged to + leave them, in the month of December, on the banks of the Snake River. + Their situation was the more critical, as they were in the neighborhood of + a band of Shoshonies, whose horses had been forcibly seized by Mr. Hunt’s + party for provisions. Mr. Crooks remained here twenty days, detained by + the extremely reduced state of John Day, who was utterly unable to travel, + and whom he would not abandon, as Day had been in his employ on the + Missouri, and had always proved himself most faithful. Fortunately the + Shoshonies did not offer to molest them. They had never before seen white + men, and seemed to entertain some superstitions with regard to them, for + though they would encamp near them in the daytime, they would move off + with their tents in the night; and finally disappeared, without taking + leave. + </p> + <p> + When Day was sufficiently recovered to travel, they kept feebly on, + sustaining themselves as well as they could, until in the month of + February, when three of the Canadians, fearful of perishing with want, + left Mr. Crooks on a small river, on the road by which Mr Hunt had passed + in quest of Indians. Mr. Crooks followed Mr. Hunt’s track in the snow for + several days, sleeping as usual in the open air, and suffering all kinds + of hardships. At length, coming to a low prairie, he lost every appearance + Of the “trail,” and wandered during the remainder of the winter in the + mountains, subsisting sometimes on horse meat, sometimes on beavers and + their skins, and a part of the time on roots. + </p> + <p> + About the last of March, the other Canadian gave out and was left with a + lodge of Shoshonies; but Mr. Crooks and John Day still kept on, and + finding the snow sufficiently diminished, undertook, from Indian + information, to cross the last mountain ridge. They happily succeeded, and + afterwards fell in with the Wallah-Wallahs, a tribe of Indians inhabiting + the banks of a river of the same name, and reputed as being frank, + hospitable, and sincere. They proved worthy of the character, for they + received the poor wanderers kindly, killed a horse for them to eat, and + directed them on their way to the Columbia. They struck the river about + the middle of April, and advanced down it one hundred miles, until they + came within about twenty miles of the falls. + </p> + <p> + Here they met with some of the “chivalry” of that noted pass, who received + them in a friendly way, and set food before them; but, while they were + satisfying their hunger, perfidiously seized their rifles. They then + stripped them naked, and drove them off, refusing the entreaties of Mr. + Crooks for a flint and steel of which they had robbed him; and threatening + his life if he did not instantly depart. + </p> + <p> + In this forlorn plight, still worse off than before, they renewed their + wanderings. They now sought to find their way back to the hospitable + Wallah-Wallahs, and had advanced eighty miles along the river, when + fortunately, on the very morning that they were going to leave the + Columbia and strike inland, the canoes of Mr. Stuart hove in sight. + </p> + <p> + It is needless to describe the joy of these poor men at once more finding + themselves among countrymen and friends, or of the honest and hearty + welcome with which they were received by their fellow adventurers. The + whole party now continued down the river, passed all the dangerous places + without interruption, and arrived safely at Astoria on the 11th of May. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0043" id="link2HCH0043"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLII + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Comprehensive Views.—To Supply the Russian Fur + Establishment.—An Agent Sent to Russia.—Project of an + Annual Ship.—The Beaver Fitted Out.—Her Equipment and + Crew.—Instructions to the Captain.—The Sandwich + Islands.—Rumors of the Fate of the Tonquin.—Precautions on + Reaching the Mouth of the Columbia. +</pre> + <p> + HAVING traced the fortunes of the two expeditions by sea and land to the + mouth of the Columbia, and presented a view of affairs at Astoria, we will + return for a moment to the master spirit of the enterprise, who regulated + the springs of Astoria, at his residence in New York. + </p> + <p> + It will be remembered, that a part of the plan of Mr. Astor was to furnish + the Russian fur establishment on the northwest coast with regular + supplies, so as to render it independent of those casual vessels which cut + up the trade and supplied the natives with arms. This plan had been + countenanced by our own government, and likewise by Count Pahlen, the + Russian minister at Washington. As its views, however, were important and + extensive, and might eventually affect a wide course of commerce, Mr Astor + was desirous of establishing a complete arrangement on the subject with + the Russian American Fur Company, under the sanction of the Russian + government. For this purpose, in March 1811, he despatched a confidential + agent to St. Petersburg, full empowered to enter into the requisite + negotiations. A passage was given to this gentleman by the government of + the United States in the John Adams, an armed vessel, bound for Europe. + </p> + <p> + The next step of Mr. Astor was, to despatch the annual ship contemplated + on his general plan. He had as yet heard nothing of the success of the + previous expeditions, and had to proceed upon the presumption that + everything had been effected according to his instructions. He accordingly + fitted out a fine ship of four hundred and ninety tons, called the Beaver, + and freighted her with a valuable cargo destined for the factory at the + mouth of the Columbia, the trade along the coast, and the supply of the + Russian establishment. In this ship embarked a reinforcement, consisting + of a partner, five clerks, fifteen American laborers, and six Canadian + voyageurs. In choosing his agents for his first expedition, Mr. Astor had + been obliged to have recourse to British subjects experienced in the + Canadian fur trade; henceforth it was his intention, as much as possible, + to select Americans, so as to secure an ascendency of American influence + in the management of the company, and to make it decidedly national. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, Mr. John Clarke, the partner who took the lead in the present + expedition, was a native of the United States, though he had passed much + of his life in the northwest, having been employed in the trade since the + age of sixteen. Most of the clerks were young gentlemen of good + connections in the American cities, some of whom embarked in the hope of + gain, others through the mere spirit of adventure incident to youth. + </p> + <p> + The instructions given by Mr. Astor to Captain Sowle, the commander of the + Beaver, were, in some respects, hypothetical, in consequence of the + uncertainty resting upon the previous steps of the enterprise. + </p> + <p> + He was to touch at the Sandwich Islands, inquire about the fortunes of the + Tonquin, and whether an establishment had been formed at the mouth of the + Columbia. If so, he was to take as many Sandwich Islanders as his ship + could accommodate, and proceed thither. On arriving at the river, he was + to observe great caution, for even if an establishment should have been + formed, it might have fallen into hostile hands. He was, therefore, to put + in as if by casualty or distress, to give himself out as a coasting + trader, and to say nothing about his ship being owned by Mr. Astor, until + he had ascertained that everything was right. In that case, he was to land + such part of his cargo as was intended for the establishment, and to + proceed to New Archangel with the supplies intended for the Russian post + at that place, where he could receive peltries in payment. With these he + was to return to Astoria; take in the furs collected there, and, having + completed his cargo by trading along the coast, was to proceed to Canton. + The captain received the same injunctions that had been given to Captain + Thorn of the Tonquin, of great caution and circumspection in his + intercourse with the natives, and that he should not permit more than one + or two to be on board at a time. + </p> + <p> + The Beaver sailed from New York on the 10th of October, 1811, and reached + the Sandwich Islands without any occurrence of moment. Here a rumor was + heard of the disastrous fate of the Tonquin. Deep solicitude was felt by + every one on board for the fate of both expeditions, by sea and land. + Doubts were entertained whether any establishment had been formed at the + mouth of the Columbia, or whether any of the company would be found there. + After much deliberation, the Captain took twelve Sandwich Islanders on + board, for the service of the factory, should there be one in existence, + and proceeded on his voyage. + </p> + <p> + On the 6th of May, he arrived off the mouth of the Columbia and running as + near as possible, fired two signal guns. No answer was returned, nor was + there any signal to be descried. Nigh coming on, the ship stood out to + sea, and every heart drooped as the land faded away. On the following + morning they again ran in within four miles of shore, and fired other + signal guns, but still without reply. A boat was then despatched, to sound + the channel, and attempt an entrance; but returned without success there + being a tremendous swell, and breakers. Signal guns were fired again in + the evening, but equally in vain, and once more the ship stood off to sea + for the night. The captain now gave up all hope of finding any + establishment at the place, and indulged in the most gloomy apprehensions. + He feared his predecessor had been massacred before they had reached their + place of destination; or if they should have erected a factory, that it + had been surprised and destroyed by the natives. + </p> + <p> + In this moment of doubt and uncertainty, Mr. Clarke announced his + determination, in case of the worst, to found an establishment with the + present party, and all hands bravely engaged to stand by him in the + undertaking. The next morning the ship stood in for the third time, and + fired three signal guns, but with little hope of reply. To the great joy + of the crew, three distinct guns were heard in answer. The apprehensions + of all but Captain Sowle were now at rest. That cautious commander + recollected the instructions given him by Mr. Astor, and determined to + proceed with great circumspection. He was well aware of Indian treachery + and cunning. It was not impossible, he observed, that these cannon might + have been fired by the savages themselves. They might have surprised the + fort, massacred its inmates; and these signal guns might only be decoys to + lure him across the bar, that they might have a chance of cutting him off, + and seizing his vessel. + </p> + <p> + At length a white flag was descried hoisted as a signal on Cape + Disappointment. The passengers pointed to it in triumph, but the captain + did not yet dismiss his doubts. A beacon fire blazed through the night on + the same place, but the captain observed that all these signals might be + treacherous. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning, May 9th, the vessel came to anchor off Cape + Disappointment, outside of the bar. Towards noon an Indian canoe was seen + making for the ship and all hands were ordered to be on the alert. A few + moments afterwards, a barge was perceived following the canoe. The hopes + and fears of those on board of the ship were in tumultuous agitation, as + the boat drew nigh that was to let them know the fortunes of the + enterprise, and the fate of their predecessors. The captain, who was + haunted with the idea of possible treachery, did not suffer his curiosity + to get the better of his caution, but ordered a party of his men under + arms, to receive the visitors. The canoe came first alongside, in which + were Comcomly and six Indians; in the barge were M’Dougal, M’Lellan, and + eight Canadians. A little conversation with these gentlemen dispelled all + the captain’s fears, and the Beaver crossing the bar under their pilotage, + anchored safely in Baker’s Bay. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0044" id="link2HCH0044"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Active Operations at Astoria—Various Expeditions Fitted + Out.—Robert Stuart and a Party Destined for New York— + Singular Conduct of John Day.—His Fate.—Piratical Pass and + Hazardous Portage.-Rattlesnakes.—Their Abhorrence of + Tobacco.—Arrival Among the Wallah-Wallahs.—Purchase of + Horses—Departure of Stuart and His Band for the Mountains. +</pre> + <p> + THE arrival of the Beaver with a reinforcement and supplies, gave new life + and vigor to affairs at Astoria. These were means for extending the + operations of the establishment, and founding interior trading posts. Two + parties were immediately set on foot to proceed severally under the + command of Messrs. M’Kenzie and Clarke, and establish posts above the + forks of the Columbia, at points where most rivalry and opposition were + apprehended from the Northwest Company. + </p> + <p> + A third party, headed by Mr. David Stuart, was to repair with supplies to + the post of that gentleman on the Oakinagan. In addition to these + expeditions, a fourth was necessary to convey despatches to Mr. Astor, at + New York, in place of those unfortunately lost by John Reed. The safe + conveyance of these despatches was highly important, as by them Mr. Astor + would receive an account of the state of the factory, and regulate his + reinforcements and supplies accordingly. The mission was one of peril and + hardship and required a man of nerve and vigor. It was confided to Robert + Stuart, who, though he had never been across the mountains, and a very + young man, had given proofs of his competency to the task. Four trusty and + well-tried men, who had come overland in Mr. Hunt’s expedition, were given + as his guides and hunters. These were Ben Jones and John Day, the + Kentuckians, and Andri Vallar and Francis Le Clerc, Canadians. Mr. + M’Lellan again expressed his determination to take this opportunity of + returning to the Atlantic States. In this he was joined by Mr. Crooks,—who, + notwithstanding all that he had suffered in the dismal journey of the + preceding winter, was ready to retrace his steps and brave every danger + and hardship, rather than remain at Astoria. This little handful of + adventurous men we propose to accompany in its long and perilous + peregrinations. + </p> + <p> + The several parties we have mentioned all set off in company on the 29th + of June, under a salute of cannon from the fort. They were to keep + together for mutual protection through the piratical passes of the river, + and to separate, on their different destinations, at the forks of the + Columbia. Their number, collectively, was nearly sixty, consisting of + partners and clerks, Canadian voyageurs, Sandwich Islanders, and American + hunters; and they embarked in two barges and ten canoes. + </p> + <p> + They had scarcely got under way, when John Day, the Kentucky hunter, + became restless and uneasy, and extremely wayward in his deportment. This + caused surprise, for in general he was remarkable for his cheerful, manly + deportment. It was supposed that the recollection of past sufferings might + harass his mind in undertaking to retrace the scenes where they had been + experienced. As the expedition advanced, however, his agitation increased. + He began to talk wildly and incoherently, and to show manifest symptoms of + derangement. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Crooks now informed his companions that in his desolate wanderings + through the Snake River country during the preceding winter, in which he + had been accompanied by John Day, the poor fellow’s wits had been + partially unsettled by the sufferings and horrors through which they had + passed, and he doubted whether they had ever been restored to perfect + sanity. It was still hoped that this agitation of spirits might pass away + as they proceeded; but, on the contrary, it grew more and more violent. + His comrades endeavored to divert his mind and to draw him into rational + conversation, but he only became the more exasperated, uttering wild and + incoherent ravings. The sight of any of the natives put him in an absolute + fury, and he would heap on them the most opprobrious epithets; + recollecting, no doubt, what he had suffered from Indian robbers. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 2d of July he became absolutely frantic, and + attempted to destroy himself. Being disarmed, he sank into quietude, and + professed the greatest remorse for the crime he had meditated. He then + pretended to sleep, and having thus lulled suspicion, suddenly sprang up, + just before daylight, seized a pair of loaded pistols, and endeavored to + blow out his brains. In his hurry he fired too high, and the balls passed + over his head. He was instantly secured and placed under a guard in one of + the boats. How to dispose of him was now the question, as it was + impossible to keep him with the expedition. Fortunately Mr. Stuart met + with some Indians accustomed to trade with Astoria. These undertook to + conduct John Day back to the factory, and deliver him there in safety. It + was with the utmost concern that his comrades saw the poor fellow depart; + for, independent of his invaluable services as a first-rate hunter, his + frank and loyal qualities had made him a universal favorite. It may be as + well to add that the Indians executed their task faithfully, and landed + John Day among his friends at Astoria; but his constitution was completely + broken by the hardships he had undergone, and he died within a year. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the 6th of July the party arrived at the piratical pass + of the river, and encamped at the foot of the first rapid. The next day, + before the commencement of the portage, the greatest precautions were + taken to guard against lurking treachery, or open attack. The weapons of + every man were put in order, and his cartridge-box replenished. Each one + wore a kind of surcoat made of the skin of the elk, reaching from his neck + to his knees, and answering the purpose of a shirt of mail, for it was + arrow proof, and could even resist a musket ball at the distance of ninety + yards. Thus armed and equipped, they posted their forces in military + style. Five of the officers took their stations at each end of the + portage, which was between three and four miles in length; a number of men + mounted guard at short distances along the heights immediately overlooking + the river, while the residue, thus protected from surprise, employed + themselves below in dragging up the barges and canoes, and carrying up the + goods along the narrow margin of the rapids. With these precautions they + all passed unmolested. The only accident that happened was the upsetting + of one of the canoes, by which some of the goods sunk, and others floated + down the stream. The alertness and rapacity of the hordes which infest + these rapids, were immediately apparent. They pounced upon the floating + merchandise with the keenness of regular wreckers. A bale of goods which + landed upon one of the islands was immediately ripped open, one half of + its contents divided among the captors, and the other half secreted in a + lonely hut in a deep ravine. Mr. Robert Stuart, however, set out in a + canoe with five men and an interpreter, ferreted out the wreckers in their + retreat, and succeeded in wrestling from them their booty. + </p> + <p> + Similar precautions to those already mentioned, and to a still greater + extent, were observed in passing the Long Narrows, and the falls, where + they would be exposed to the depredations of the chivalry of Wish-ram, and + its freebooting neighborhood. In fact, they had scarcely set their first + watch one night, when an alarm of “Indians!” was given. “To arms” was the + cry, and every man was at his post in an instant. The alarm was explained; + a war party of Shoshonies had surprised a canoe of the natives just below + the encampment, had murdered four men and two women, and it was + apprehended they would attack the camp. The boats and canoes were + immediately hauled up, a breastwork was made of them and the packages, + forming three sides of a square, with the river in the rear, and thus the + party remained fortified throughout the night. + </p> + <p> + The dawn, however, dispelled the alarm; the portage was conducted in + peace; the vagabond warriors of the vicinity hovered about them while at + work, but were kept at a wary distance. They regarded the loads of + merchandise with wistful eyes, but seeing the “long-beards” so formidable + in number, and so well prepared for action, they made no attempt either by + open force or sly pilfering to collect their usual toll, but maintained a + peaceful demeanor, and were afterwards rewarded for their good conduct + with presents of tobacco. + </p> + <p> + Fifteen days were consumed in ascending from the foot of the first rapid + to the head of the falls, a distance of about eighty miles, but full of + all kinds of obstructions. Having happily accomplished these difficult + portages, the party, on the 19th of July, arrived at a smoother part of + the river, and pursued their way up the stream with greater speed and + facility. + </p> + <p> + They were now in the neighborhood where Mr. Crooks and John Day had been + so perfidiously robbed and stripped a few months previously, when + confiding in the proffered hospitality of a ruffian band. On landing at + night, therefore, a vigilant guard was maintained about the camp. On the + following morning a number of Indians made their appearance, and came + prowling round the party while at breakfast. To his great delight, Mr. + Crooks recognized among them two of the miscreants by whom he had been + robbed. They were instantly seized, bound hand and foot, and thrown into + one of the canoes. Here they lay in doleful fright, expecting summary + execution. Mr. Crooks, however, was not of a revengeful disposition, and + agreed to release the culprits as soon as the pillaged property should be + restored. Several savages immediately started off in different directions, + and before night the rifles of Crooks and Day were produced; several of + the smaller articles pilfered from them, however, could not be recovered. + </p> + <p> + The bands of the culprits were then removed, and they lost no time in + taking their departure, still under the influence of abject terror, and + scarcely crediting their senses that they had escaped the merited + punishment of their offenses. + </p> + <p> + The country on each side of the river now began to assume a different + character. The hills, and cliffs, and forests disappeared; vast sandy + plains, scantily clothed here and there with short tufts of grass, parched + by the summer sun, stretched far away to the north and south. The river + was occasionally obstructed with rocks and rapids, but often there were + smooth, placid intervals, where the current was gentle, and the boatmen + were enabled to lighten their labors with the assistance of the sail. + </p> + <p> + The natives in this part of the river resided entirely on the northern + side. They were hunters, as well as fishermen, and had horses in plenty. + Some of these were purchased by the party, as provisions, and killed on + the spot, though they occasionally found a difficulty in procuring fuel + wherewith to cook them. One of the greatest dangers that beset the + travellers in this part of their expedition, was the vast number of + rattlesnakes which infested the rocks about the rapids and portages, and + on which the men were in danger of treading. They were often found, too, + in quantities about the encampments. In one place, a nest of them lay + coiled together, basking in the sun. Several guns loaded with shot were + discharged at them, and thirty-seven killed and wounded. To prevent any + unwelcome visits from them in the night, tobacco was occasionally strewed + around the tents, a weed for which they have a very proper abhorrence. + </p> + <p> + On the 28th of July the travellers arrived at the mouth of the + Wallah-Wallah, a bright, clear stream, about six feet deep, and fifty-five + yards wide, which flows rapidly over a bed of sand and gravel, and throws + itself into the Columbia, a few miles below Lewis River. Here the combined + parties that had thus far voyaged together were to separate, each for its + particular destination. + </p> + <p> + On the banks of the Wallah-Wallah lived the hospitable tribe of the same + name who had succored Mr. Crooks and John Day in the time of their + extremity. No sooner did they hear of the arrival of the party, than they + hastened to greet them. They built a great bonfire on the bank of the + river, before the camp, and men and women danced round it to the cadence + of their songs, in which they sang the praises of the white men, and + welcomed them to their country. + </p> + <p> + On the following day a traffic was commenced, to procure horses for such + of the party as intended to proceed by land. The Wallah-Wallahs are an + equestrian tribe. The equipments of their horses were rude and + inconvenient. High saddles, roughly made of deer skin, stuffed with hair, + which chafe the horse’s back and leave it raw; wooden stirrups, with a + thong of raw hide wrapped round them; and for bridles they have cords of + twisted horse-hair, which they tie round the under jaw. They are, like + most Indians, bold but hard riders, and when on horseback gallop about the + most dangerous places, without fear for themselves, or pity for their + steeds. + </p> + <p> + From these people Mr. Stuart purchased twenty horses for his party; some + for the saddle, and others to transport the baggage. He was fortunate in + procuring a noble animal for his own use, which was praised by the Indians + for its great speed and bottom, and a high price set upon it. No people + understand better the value of a horse than these equestrian tribes; and + nowhere is speed a greater requisite, as they frequently engage in the + chase of the antelope, one of the fleetest of animals. Even after the + Indian who sold this boasted horse to Mr. Stuart had concluded his + bargain, he lingered about the animal, seeming loth to part from him, and + to be sorry for what he had done. + </p> + <p> + A day or two were employed by Mr. Stuart in arranging packages and + pack-saddles, and making other preparations for his long and arduous + journey. His party, by the loss of John Day, was now reduced to six, a + small number for such an expedition. They were young men, however, full of + courage, health, and good spirits, and stimulated rather than appalled by + danger. + </p> + <p> + On the morning of the 31st of July, all preparations being concluded, Mr. + Stuart and his little band mounted their steeds and took a farewell of + their fellow-travellers, who gave them three hearty cheers as they set out + on their dangerous journey. The course they took was to the southeast, + towards the fated region of the Snake River. At an immense distance rose a + chain of craggy mountains, which they would have to traverse; they were + the same among which the travellers had experienced such sufferings from + cold during the preceding winter, and from their azure tints, when seen at + a distance, had received the name of the Blue Mountains. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0045" id="link2HCH0045"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Route of Mr. Stuart—Dreary Wilds.—Thirsty Travelling.-A + Grove and Streamlet.—The Blue Mountains.—A Fertile Plain + With Rivulets.—Sulphur Spring—Route Along Snake River— + Rumors of White Men.—The Snake and His Horse.—A Snake + Guide.-A Midnight Decampment.—Unexpected Meeting With Old + Comrades—Story of Trappers’ Hardships—Salmon Falls—A + Great Fishery.—Mode of Spearing Salmon.—Arrival at the + Caldron Linn.—State of the Caches.—New Resolution of the + Three Kentucky Trappers. +</pre> + <p> + IN retracing the route which had proved so disastrous to Mr. Hunt’s party + during the preceding winter, Mr. Stuart had trusted, in the present more + favorable season, to find easy travelling and abundant supplies. On these + great wastes and wilds, however, each season has its peculiar hardships. + The travellers had not proceeded far, before they found themselves among + naked and arid hills, with a soil composed of sand and clay, baked and + brittle, that to all appearance had never been visited by the dews of + heaven. + </p> + <p> + Not a spring, or pool, or running stream was to be seen; the sunburnt + country was seamed and cut up by dry ravines, the beds of winter torrents, + serving only to balk the hopes of man and beast with the sight of dusty + channels, where water had once poured along in floods. + </p> + <p> + For a long summer day they continued onward without halting, a burning sky + above their heads, a parched desert beneath their feet, with just wind + enough to raise the light sand from the knolls, and envelop them in + stifling clouds. The sufferings from thirst became intense; a fine young + dog, their only companion of the kind, gave out, and expired. Evening drew + on without any prospect of relief, and they were almost reduced to + despair, when they descried something that looked like a fringe of forest + along the horizon. All were inspired with new hope, for they knew that on + these arid wastes, in the neighborhood of trees, there is always water. + </p> + <p> + They now quickened their pace; the horses seemed to understand their + motives, and to partake of their anticipations; for, though before almost + ready to give out, they now required neither whip nor spur. With all their + exertions, it was late in the night before they drew near to the trees. As + they approached, they heard, with transport, the rippling of a shallow + stream. No sooner did the refreshing sound reach the ears of the horse, + than the poor animals snuffed the air, rushed forward with ungovernable + eagerness, and plunging their muzzles into the water, drank until they + seemed in danger of bursting. Their riders had but little more discretion, + and required repeated draughts to quench their excessive thirst. Their + weary march that day had been forty-five miles, over a tract that might + rival the deserts of Africa for aridity. Indeed, the sufferings of the + traveller on these American deserts is frequently more severe than in the + wastes of Africa or Asia, from being less habituated and prepared to cope + with them. + </p> + <p> + On the banks of this blessed stream the travellers encamped for the night; + and so great had been their fatigue, and so sound and sweet was their + sleep, that it was a late hour the next morning before they awoke. They + now recognized the little river to be the Umatilla, the same on the banks + of which Mr. Hunt and his followers had arrived after their painful + struggle through the Blue Mountains, and experienced such a kind relief in + the friendly camp of the Sciatogas. + </p> + <p> + That range of Blue Mountains now extended in the distance before them; + they were the same among which poor Michael Carriere had perished. They + form the southeast boundary of the great plains along the Columbia, + dividing the waters of its main stream from those of Lewis River. They + are, in fact, a part of a long chain, which stretches over a great extent + of country, and includes in its links the Snake River Mountains. + </p> + <p> + The day was somewhat advanced before the travellers left the shady banks + of the Umatilla. Their route gradually took them among the Blue Mountains, + which assumed the most rugged aspect on a near approach. They were shagged + with dense and gloomy forests, and cut up by deep and precipitous ravines, + extremely toilsome to the horses. Sometimes the travellers had to follow + the course of some brawling stream, with a broken, rocky bed, which the + shouldering cliffs and promontories on either side obliged them frequently + to cross and recross. For some miles they struggled forward through these + savage and darkly wooded defiles, when all at once the whole landscape + changed, as if by magic. The rude mountains and rugged ravines softened + into beautiful hills, and intervening meadows, with rivulets winding + through fresh herbage, and sparkling and murmuring over gravelly beds, the + whole forming a verdant and pastoral scene, which derived additional + charms from being locked up in the bosom of such a hard-hearted region. + </p> + <p> + Emerging from the chain of Blue Mountains, they descended upon a vast + plain, almost a dead level, sixty miles in circumference, Of excellent + soil, with fine streams meandering through it in every direction, their + courses marked out in the wide landscape by serpentine lines of + cotton-wood trees, and willows, which fringed their banks, and afforded + sustenance to great numbers of beavers and otters. + </p> + <p> + In traversing this plain, they passed, close to the skirts of the hills, a + great pool of water, three hundred yards in circumference, fed by a + sulphur spring, about ten feet in diameter, boiling up in one corner. The + vapor from this pool was extremely noisome, and tainted the air for a + considerable distance. The place was much frequented by elk, which were + found in considerable numbers in the adjacent mountains, and their horns, + shed in the spring-time, were strewed in every direction around the pond. + </p> + <p> + On the 10th of August, they reached the main body of Woodvile Creek, the + same stream which Mr. Hunt had ascended in the preceding year, shortly + after his separation from Mr. Crooks. + </p> + <p> + On the banks of this stream they saw a herd of nineteen antelopes; a sight + so unusual in that part of the country, that at first they doubted the + evidence of their senses. They tried by every means to get within shot of + them, but they were too shy and fleet, and after alternately bounding to a + distance, and then stopping to gaze with capricious curiosity at the + hunter, they at length scampered out of sight. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of August, the travellers arrived on the banks of Snake River, + the scene of so many trials and mishaps to all of the present party + excepting Mr. Stuart. They struck the river just above the place where it + entered the mountains, through which Messrs. Stuart and Crooks had vainly + endeavored to find a passage. The river was here a rapid stream, four + hundred yards in width, with high sandy banks, and here and there a scanty + growth of willow. Up the southern side of the river they now bent their + course, intending to visit the caches made by Mr. Hunt at the Caldron + Linn. + </p> + <p> + On the second evening, a solitary Snake Indian visited their camp, at a + late hour, and informed them that there was a white man residing at one of + the cantonments of his tribe, about a day’s journey higher up the river. + It was immediately concluded that he must be one of the poor fellows of + Mr. Hunt’s party, who had given out, exhausted by hunger and fatigue, in + the wretched journey of the preceding winter. All present who had borne a + part in the sufferings of that journey, were eager now to press forward, + and bring relief to a lost comrade. Early the next morning, therefore, + they pushed forward with unusual alacrity. For two days, however, did they + travel without being able to find any trace of such a straggler. + </p> + <p> + On the evening of the second day, they arrived at a place where a large + river came in from the east, which was renowned among all the wandering + hordes of the Snake nation for its salmon fishery, that fish being taken + in incredible quantities in this neighborhood. Here, therefore, during the + fishing season, the Snake Indians resort from far and near, to lay in + their stock of salmon, which, with esculent roots, forms the principal + food of the inhabitants of these barren regions. + </p> + <p> + On the bank of a small stream emptying into Snake River at this place, Mr. + Stuart found an encampment of Shoshonies. He made the usual inquiry of + them concerning the white man of whom he had received intelligence. No + such person was dwelling among them, but they said there were white men + residing with some of their nation on the opposite side of the river. This + was still more animating information. Mr. Crooks now hoped that these + might be the men of his party, who, disheartened by perils and hardships, + had preferred to remain among the Indians. Others thought they might be + Mr. Miller and the hunters who had left the main body at Henry’s Fort, to + trap among the mountain streams. Mr. Stuart halted, therefore, in the + neighborhood of the Shoshonie lodges, and sent an Indian across the river + to seek out the white men in question, and bring them to his camp. + </p> + <p> + The travellers passed a restless, miserable night. The place swarmed with + myriads of mosquitoes, which, with their stings and their music, set all + sleep at defiance. The morning dawn found them in a feverish, irritable + mood, and their spleen was completely aroused by the return of the Indian + without any intelligence of the white men. They now considered themselves + the dupes of Indian falsehoods, and resolved to put no more confidence in + Snakes. They soon, however, forgot this resolution. In the course of the + morning, an Indian came galloping after them; Mr. Stuart waited to receive + him; no sooner had he come up, than, dismounting and throwing his arms + around the neck of Mr. Stuart’s horse, he began to kiss and caress the + animal, who, on his part, seemed by no means surprised or displeased with + his salutation. Mr. Stuart, who valued his horse highly, was somewhat + annoyed by these transports; the cause of them was soon explained. The + Snake said the horse had belonged to him, and been the best in his + possession, and that it had been stolen by the Wallah-Wallahs. Mr. Stuart + was by no means pleased with this recognition of his steed, nor disposed + to admit any claim on the part of its ancient owner. In fact, it was a + noble animal, admirably shaped, of free and generous spirit, graceful in + movement, and fleet as an antelope. It was his intention, if possible, to + take the horse to New York, and present him to Mr. Astor. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, some of the party came up, and immediately recognized in + the Snake an old friend and ally. He was, in fact, one of the two guides + who had conducted Mr. Hunt’s party, in the preceding autumn, across Mad + River Mountain to Fort Henry, and who subsequently departed with Mr. + Miller and his fellow trappers, to conduct them to a good trapping ground. + The reader may recollect that these two trusty Snakes were engaged by Mr. + Hunt to return and take charge of the horses which the party intended to + leave at Fort Henry, when they should embark in canoes. + </p> + <p> + The party now crowded round the Snake, and began to question him with + eagerness. His replies were somewhat vague, and but partially understood. + He told a long story about the horses, from which it appeared that they + had been stolen by various wandering bands, and scattered in different + directions. The cache, too, had been plundered, and the saddles and other + equipments carried off. His information concerning Mr. Miller and his + comrades was not more satisfactory. They had trapped for some time about + the upper streams, but had fallen into the hands of a marauding party of + Crows, who had robbed them of horses, weapons, and everything. + </p> + <p> + Further questioning brought forth further intelligence, but all of a + disastrous kind. About ten days previously, he had met with three other + white men, in very miserable plight, having one horse each, and but one + rifle among them. They also had been plundered and maltreated by the + Crows, those universal freebooters. The Snake endeavored to pronounce the + names of these three men, and as far as his imperfect sounds could be + understood, they were supposed to be three of the party of four hunters, + namely, Carson, St. Michael, Detaye, and Delaunay, who were detached from + Mr. Hunt’s party on the 28th of September, to trap beaver on the head + waters of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + In the course of conversation, the Indian informed them that the route by + which Mr. Hunt had crossed the Rocky Mountains was very bad and + circuitous, and that he knew one much shorter and easier. Mr. Stuart urged + him to accompany them as guide, promising to reward him with a pistol with + powder and ball, a knife, an awl, some blue beads, a blanket, and a + looking-glass. Such a catalogue of riches was too tempting to be resisted; + besides the poor Snake languished after the prairies; he was tired, he + said, of salmon, and longed for buffalo meat, and to have a grand buffalo + hunt beyond the mountains. He departed, therefore, with all speed, to get + his arms and equipments for the journey, promising to rejoin the party the + next day. He kept his word, and, as he no longer said anything to Mr. + Stuart on the subject of the pet horse, they journeyed very harmoniously + together; though now and then, the Snake would regard his quondam steed + with a wistful eye. + </p> + <p> + They had not travelled many miles, when they came to a great bend in the + river. Here the Snake informed them that, by cutting across the hills they + would save many miles of distance. The route across, however, would be a + good day’s journey. He advised them, therefore, to encamp here for the + night, and set off early in the morning. They took his advice, though they + had come but nine miles that day. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning they rose, bright and early, to ascend the hills. + On mustering their little party, the guide was missing. They supposed him + to be somewhere in the neighborhood, and proceeded to collect the horses. + The vaunted steed of Mr. Stuart was not to be found. A suspicion flashed + upon his mind. Search for the horse of the Snake! He likewise was gone—the + tracks of two horses, one after the other, were found, making off from the + camp. They appeared as if one horse had been mounted, and the other led. + They were traced for a few miles above the camp, until they both crossed + the river. It was plain the Snake had taken an Indian mode of recovering + his horse, having quietly decamped with him in the night. + </p> + <p> + New vows were made never more to trust in Snakes, or any other Indians. It + was determined, also, to maintain, hereafter, the strictest vigilance over + their horses, dividing the night into three watches, and one person + mounting guard at a time. They resolved, also, to keep along the river, + instead of taking the short cut recommended by the fugitive Snake, whom + they now set down for a thorough deceiver. The heat of the weather was + oppressive, and their horses were, at times, rendered almost frantic by + the stings of the prairie flies. The nights were suffocating, and it was + almost impossible to sleep, from the swarms of mosquitoes. + </p> + <p> + On the 20th of August they resumed their march, keeping along the prairie + parallel to Snake River. The day was sultry, and some of the party, being + parched with thirst, left the line of march, and scrambled down the bank + of the river to drink. The bank was overhung with willows, beneath which, + to their surprise, they beheld a man fishing. No sooner did he see them, + than he uttered an exclamation of joy. It proved to be John Hoback, one of + their lost comrades. They had scarcely exchanged greetings, when three + other men came out from among the willows. They were Joseph Miller, Jacob + Rezner, and Robinson, the scalped Kentuckian, the veteran of the Bloody + Ground. + </p> + <p> + The reader will perhaps recollect the abrupt and willful manner in which + Mr. Miller threw up his interest as a partner of the company, and departed + from Fort Henry, in company with these three trappers, and a fourth, named + Cass. He may likewise recognize in Robinson, Rezner, and Hoback, the trio + of Kentucky hunters who had originally been in the service of Mr. Henry, + and whom Mr. Hunt found floating down the Missouri, on their way homeward; + and prevailed upon, once more, to cross the mountains. The haggard looks + and naked condition of these men proved how much they had suffered. After + leaving Mr. Hunt’s party, they had made their way about two hundred miles + to the southward, where they trapped beaver on a river which, according to + their account, discharged itself into the ocean to the south of the + Columbia, but which we apprehend to be Bear River, a stream emptying + itself into Lake Bonneville, an immense body of salt water, west of the + Rocky Mountains. + </p> + <p> + Having collected a considerable quantity of beaver skins, they made them + into packs, loaded their horses, and steered two hundred miles due east. + Here they came upon an encampment of sixty lodges of Arapahays, an + outlawed band of the Arrapahoes, and notorious robbers. These fell upon + the poor trappers; robbed them of their peltries, most of their clothing, + and several of their horses. They were glad to escape with their lives, + and without being entirely stripped, and after proceeding about fifty + miles further, made their halt for the winter. + </p> + <p> + Early in the spring they resumed their wayfaring, but were unluckily + overtaken by the same ruffian horde, who levied still further + contributions, and carried off the remainder of their horses, excepting + two. With these they continued on, suffering the greatest hardships. They + still retained rifles and ammunition, but were in a desert country, where + neither bird nor beast was to be found. Their only chance was to keep + along the rivers, and subsist by fishing; but at times no fish were to be + taken, and then their sufferings were horrible. One of their horses was + stolen among the mountains by the Snake Indians; the other, they said, was + carried off by Cass, who, according to their account, “villainously left + them in their extremities.” Certain dark doubts and surmises were + afterwards circulated concerning the fate of that poor fellow, which, if + true, showed to what a desperate state of famine his comrades had been + reduced. + </p> + <p> + Being now completely unhorsed, Mr. Miller and his three companions + wandered on foot for several hundred miles, enduring hunger, thirst, and + fatigue, while traversing the barren wastes which abound beyond the Rocky + Mountains. At the time they were discovered by Mr. Stuart’s party, they + were almost famished, and were fishing for a precarious meal. Had Mr. + Stuart made the short cut across the hills, avoiding this bend of the + river, or had not some of his party accidentally gone down to the margin + of the stream to drink, these poor wanderers might have remained + undiscovered, and have perished in the wilderness. Nothing could exceed + their joy on thus meeting with their old comrades, or the heartiness with + which they were welcomed. All hands immediately encamped; and the slender + stores of the party were ransacked to furnish out a suitable regale. + </p> + <p> + The next morning they all set out together; Mr. Miller and his comrades + being resolved to give up the life of a trapper, and accompany Mr. Stuart + back to St. Louis. + </p> + <p> + For several days they kept along the course of Snake River, occasionally + making short cuts across hills and promontories, where there were bends in + the stream. In their way they passed several camps of Shoshonies, from + some of whom they procured salmon, but in general they were too wretchedly + poor to furnish anything. It was the wish of Mr. Stuart to purchase horses + for the recent recruits of his party; but the Indians could not be + prevailed upon to part with any, alleging that they had not enough for + their own use. + </p> + <p> + On the 25th of August they reached a great fishing place, to which they + gave the name of the Salmon Falls. Here there is a perpendicular fall of + twenty feet on the north side of the river, while on the south side there + is a succession of rapids. The salmon are taken here in incredible + quantities, as they attempt to shoot the falls. It was now a favorable + season, and there were about one hundred lodges of Shoshonies busily + engaged killing and drying fish. The salmon begin to leap shortly after + sunrise. At this time the Indians swim to the centre of the falls, where + some station themselves on rocks, and others stand to their waists in the + water, all armed with spears, with which they assail the salmon as they + attempt to leap, or fall back exhausted. It is an incessant slaughter, so + great is the throng of the fish. + </p> + <p> + The construction of the spears thus used is peculiar. The head is a + straight piece of elk horn, about seven inches long, on the point of which + an artificial barb is made fast, with twine well gummed. The head is stuck + on the end of the shaft, a very long pole of willow, to which it is + likewise connected by a strong cord, a few inches in length. When the + spearsman makes a sure blow, he often strikes the head of the spear + through the body of the fish. It comes off easily, and leaves the salmon + struggling with the string through its body, while the pole is still held + by the spearsman. Were it not for the precaution of the string, the willow + shaft would be snapped by the struggles and the weight of the fish. Mr. + Miller, in the course of his wanderings, had been at these falls, and had + seen several thousand salmon taken in the course of one afternoon. He + declared that he had seen a salmon leap a distance of about thirty feet, + from the commencement of the foam at the foot of the falls, completely to + the top. + </p> + <p> + Having purchased a good supply of salmon from the fishermen, the party + resumed their journey, and on the twenty-ninth, arrived at the Caldron + Linn, the eventful scene of the preceding autumn. Here, the first thing + that met their eyes was a memento of the perplexities of that period; the + wreck of a canoe lodged between two ledges of rocks. They endeavored to + get down to it, but the river banks were too high and precipitous. + </p> + <p> + They now proceeded to that part of the neighborhood where Mr. Hunt and his + party had made the caches, intending to take from them such articles as + belonged to Mr. Crooks, M’Lellan, and the Canadians. On reaching the spot, + they found, to their astonishment, six of the caches open and rifled of + their contents, excepting a few books which lay scattered about the + vicinity. They had the appearance of having been plundered in the course + of the summer. There were tracks of wolves in every direction, to and from + the holes, from which Mr. Stuart concluded that these animals had first + been attracted to the place by the smell of the skins contained in the + caches, which they had probably torn up, and that their tracks had + betrayed the secret to the Indians. + </p> + <p> + The three remaining caches had not been molested; they contained a few dry + goods, some ammunition, and a number of beaver traps. From these Mr. + Stuart took whatever was requisite for his party; he then deposited within + them all his superfluous baggage, and all the books and papers scattered + around; the holes were then carefully closed up, and all traces of them + effaced. And here we have to record another instance of the indomitable + spirit of the western trappers. No sooner did the trio of Kentucky + hunters, Robinson, Rezner, and Hoback, find that they could once more be + fitted out for a campaign of beaver-trapping, than they forgot all that + they had suffered, and determined upon another trial of their fortunes; + preferring to take their chance in the wilderness, rather than return home + ragged and penniless. As to Mr. Miller, he declared his curiosity and his + desire of travelling through the Indian countries fully satisfied; he + adhered to his determination, therefore, to keep on with the party to St. + Louis, and to return to the bosom of civilized society. + </p> + <p> + The three hunters, therefore, Robinson, Rezner, and Hoback, were + furnished, as far as the caches and the means of Mr. Stuart’s party + afforded, with the requisite munitions and equipments for a “two years’ + hunt;” but as their fitting out was yet incomplete, they resolved to wait + in this neighborhood until Mr. Reed should arrive; whose arrival might + soon be expected, as he was to set out for the caches about twenty days + after Mr. Stuart parted with him at the Wallah-Wallah River. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart gave in charge to Robinson a letter to Mr. Reed, reporting his + safe journey thus far, and the state in which he had found the caches. A + duplicate of this letter he elevated on a pole, and set it up near the + place of deposit. + </p> + <p> + All things being thus arranged, Mr. Stuart and his little band, now seven + in number, took leave of the three hardy trappers, wishing them all + possible success in their lonely and perilous sojourn in the wilderness; + and we, in like manner, shall leave them to their fortunes, promising to + take them up again at some future page, and to close the story of their + persevering and ill-fated enterprise. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0046" id="link2HCH0046"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Snake River Deserts.—Scanty Fare.—Bewildered + Travellers—Prowling Indians—A Giant Crow Chief.—A Bully + Rebuked—Indian Signals.—Smoke on the Mountains.—Mad + River.—An Alarm.—An Indian Foray—A Scamper.—A Rude + Indian joke.—A Sharp-Shooter Balked of His Shot. +</pre> + <p> + ON the 1st of September, Mr. Stuart and his companions resumed their + journey, bending their course eastward, along the course of Snake River. + As they advanced the country opened. The hills which had hemmed in the + river receded on either hand, and great sandy and dusty plains extended + before them. Occasionally there were intervals of pasturage, and the banks + of the river were fringed with willows and cottonwood, so that its course + might be traced from the hilltops, winding under an umbrageous covert, + through a wide sunburnt landscape. The soil, however, was generally poor; + there was in some places a miserable growth of wormwood, and a plant + called saltweed, resembling pennyroyal; but the summer had parched the + plains, and left but little pasturage. The game, too, had disappeared. The + hunter looked in vain over the lifeless landscape; now and then a few + antelope might be seen, but not within reach of the rifle. We forbear to + follow the travellers in a week’s wandering over these barren wastes, + where they suffered much from hunger, having to depend upon a few fish + from the streams, and now and then a little dried salmon, or a dog, + procured from some forlorn lodge of Shoshonies. + </p> + <p> + Tired of these cheerless wastes, they left the banks of Snake River on the + 7th of September, under guidance of Mr. Miller, who having acquired some + knowledge of the country during his trapping campaign, undertook to + conduct them across the mountains by a better route than that by Fort + Henry, and one more out of the range of the Blackfeet. He proved, however, + but an indifferent guide, and they soon became bewildered among rugged + hills and unknown streams, and burnt and barren prairies. + </p> + <p> + At length they came to a river on which Mr. Miller had trapped, and to + which they gave his name; though, as before observed, we presume it to be + the same called Bear River, which empties itself into Lake Bonneville. Up + this river and its branches they kept for two or three days, supporting + themselves precariously upon fish. They soon found that they were in a + dangerous neighborhood. On the 12th of September, having encamped early, + they sallied forth with their rods to angle for their supper. On + returning, they beheld a number of Indians prowling about their camp, + whom, to their infinite disquiet, they soon perceived to be Upsarokas, or + Crows. Their chief came forward with a confident air. He was a dark + herculean fellow, full six feet four inches in height, with a mingled air + of the ruffian and the rogue. He conducted himself peaceably, however, and + despatched some of his people to their camp, which was somewhere in the + neighborhood, from whence they returned with a most acceptable supply of + buffalo meat. He now signified to Mr. Stuart that he was going to trade + with the Snakes who reside on the west base of the mountains, below + Henry’s Fort. Here they cultivate a delicate kind of tobacco, much + esteemed and sought after by the mountain tribes. There was something + sinister, however, in the look of this Indian, that inspired distrust. By + degrees, the number of his people increased, until, by midnight, there + were twenty-one of them about the camp, who began to be impudent and + troublesome. The greatest uneasiness was now felt for the safety of the + horses and effects, and every one kept vigilant watch throughout the + night. + </p> + <p> + The morning dawned, however, without any unpleasant occurrence, and Mr. + Stuart, having purchased all the buffalo meat that the Crows had to spare, + prepared to depart. His Indian acquaintances, however, were disposed for + further dealings; and above all, anxious for a supply of gunpowder, for + which they offered horses in exchange. Mr. Stuart declined to furnish them + with the dangerous commodity. They became more importunate in their + solicitations, until they met with a flat refusal. + </p> + <p> + The gigantic chief now stepped forward, assumed a swelling air, and, + slapping himself upon the breast, gave Mr. Crooks to understand that he + was a chief of great power and importance. He signified, further, that it + was customary for great chiefs when they met, to make each other presents. + He requested, therefore, that Mr. Stuart would alight, and give him the + horse upon which he was mounted. This was a noble animal, of one of the + wild races of the prairies; on which Mr. Stuart set great value; he, of + course, shook his head at the request of the Crow dignitary. Upon this the + latter strode up to him, and taking hold of him, moved him backwards and + forwards in his saddle, as if to make him feel that he was a mere child + within his grasp. Mr. Stuart preserved his calmness, and still shook his + head. The chief then seized the bridle, and gave it a jerk that startled + the horse, and nearly brought the rider to the ground. Mr. Stuart + instantly drew forth a pistol, and presented it at the head of the + bully-ruffian. In a twinkling his swaggering was at an end, and he dodged + behind his horse to escape the expected shot. As his subject Crows gazed + on the affray from a little distance, Mr. Stuart ordered his men to level + their rifles at them, but not to fire. The whole crew scampered among the + bushes, and throwing themselves upon the ground, vanished from sight. + </p> + <p> + The chieftain thus left alone was confounded for an instant; but, + recovering himself with true Indian shrewdness, burst into a loud laugh, + and affected to turn off the whole matter as a piece of pleasantry. Mr. + Stuart by no means relished such equivocal joking, but it was not his + policy to get into a quarrel; so he joined with the best grace he could + assume in the merriment of the jocular giant; and, to console the latter + for the refusal of the horse, made him a present of twenty charges of + powder. They parted, according to all outward professions, the best + friends in the world; it was evident, however, that nothing but the + smallness of his own force, and the martial array and alertness of the + white men, had prevented the Crow chief from proceeding to open outrage. + As it was, his worthy followers, in the course of their brief interview, + had contrived to purloin a bag containing almost all the culinary utensils + of the party. + </p> + <p> + The travellers kept on their way due east, over a chain of hills. The + recent rencontre showed them that they were now in a land of danger, + subject to the wide roamings of a predacious tribe; nor, in fact, had they + gone many miles before they beheld sights calculated to inspire anxiety + and alarm. From the summits of some of the loftiest mountains, in + different directions, columns of smoke be-an to rise. These they concluded + to be signals made by the runners of the Crow chieftain, to summon the + stragglers of his band, so as to pursue them with greater force. Signals + of this kind, made by outrunners from one central point, will rouse a wide + circuit of the mountains in a wonderfully short space of time; and bring + the straggling hunters and warriors to the standard of their chieftain. + </p> + <p> + To keep as much as possible out of the way of these freebooters, Mr. + Stuart altered his course to the north, and, quitting the main stream of + Miller’s River, kept up a large branch that came in from the mountains. + Here they encamped, after a fatiguing march of twenty-five miles. As the + night drew on, the horses were hobbled or fettered, and tethered close to + the camp; a vigilant watch was maintained until morning, and every one + slept with his rifle on his arm. + </p> + <p> + At sunrise, they were again on the march, still keeping to the north. They + soon began to ascend the mountains, and occasionally had wide prospects + over the surrounding country. Not a sign of a Crow was to be seen; but + this did not assure them of their security, well knowing the perseverance + of these savages in dogging any party they intend to rob, and the stealthy + way in which they can conceal their movements, keeping along ravines and + defiles. After a mountain scramble of twenty-one miles, they encamped on + the margin of a stream running to the north. + </p> + <p> + In the evening there was an alarm of Indians, and everyone was instantly + on the alert. They proved to be three miserable Snakes, who were no sooner + informed that a band of Crows was prowling in the neighborhood than they + made off with great signs of consternation. + </p> + <p> + A couple more of weary days and watchful nights brought them to a strong + and rapid stream, running due north, which they concluded to be one of the + upper branches of Snake River. It was probably the same since called Salt + River. + </p> + <p> + They determined to bend their course down this river, as it would take + them still further out of the dangerous neighborhood of the Crows. They + then would strike upon Mr. Hunt’s track of the preceding autumn, and + retrace it across the mountains. The attempt to find a better route under + guidance of Mr. Miller had cost them a large bend to the south; in + resuming Mr. Hunt’s track, they would at least be sure of their road. They + accordingly turned down along the course of this stream, and at the end of + three days’ journey came to where it was joined by a larger river, and + assumed a more impetuous character, raging and roaring among rocks and + precipices. It proved, in fact, to be Mad River, already noted in the + expedition of Mr. Hunt. On the banks of this river, they encamped on the + 18th of September, at an early hour. + </p> + <p> + Six days had now elapsed since their interview with the Crows; during that + time they had come nearly a hundred and fifty miles to the north and west, + without seeing any signs of those marauders. They considered themselves, + therefore, beyond the reach of molestation, and began to relax in their + vigilance, lingering occasionally for part of a day, where there was good + pasturage. The poor horses needed repose. + </p> + <p> + They had been urged on, by forced marches, over rugged heights, among + rocks and fallen timber, or over low swampy valleys, inundated by the + labors of the beaver. These industrious animals abounded in all the + mountain streams and watercourses, wherever there were willows for their + subsistence. Many of them they had so completely dammed up as to inundate + the low grounds, making shallow pools or lakes, and extensive quagmires; + by which the route of the travellers was often impeded. + </p> + <p> + On the 19th of September, they rose at early dawn; some began to prepare + breakfast, and others to arrange the packs preparatory to a march. The + horses had been hobbled, but left at large to graze upon the adjacent + pasture. Mr. Stuart was on the bank of a river, at a short distance from + the camp, when he heard the alarm cry—“Indians! Indians!—to + arms! to arms!” + </p> + <p> + A mounted Crow galloped past the camp, bearing a red flag. He reined his + steed on the summit of a neighboring knoll, and waved his flaring banner. + A diabolical yell now broke forth on the opposite side of the camp, beyond + where the horses were grazing, and a small troop of savages came galloping + up, whooping and making a terrific clamor. The horses took fright, and + dashed across the camp in the direction of the standard-bearer, attracted + by his waving flag. He instantly put spurs to his steed, and scoured off + followed by the panic-stricken herd, their fright being increased by the + yells of the savages in their rear. + </p> + <p> + At the first alarm, Mr. Stuart and his comrades had seized their rifles, + and attempted to cut off the Indians who were pursuing the horses. Their + attention was instantly distracted by whoops and yells in an opposite + direction. + </p> + <p> + They now apprehended that a reserve party was about to carry off their + baggage. They ran to secure it. The reserve party, however, galloped by, + whooping and yelling in triumph and derision. The last of them proved to + be their commander, the identical giant joker already mentioned. He was + not cast in the stern poetical mold of fashionable Indian heroism, but on + the contrary, was grievously given to vulgar jocularity. As he passed Mr. + Stuart and his companions, he checked his horse, raised himself in his + saddle, and clapping his hand on the most insulting part of his body, + uttered some jeering words, which, fortunately for their delicacy, they + could not understand. The rifle of Ben Jones was leveled in an instant, + and he was on the point of whizzing a bullet into the target so tauntingly + displayed. “Not for your life! not for your life!” exclaimed Mr. Stuart, + “you will bring destruction on us all!” + </p> + <p> + It was hard to restrain honest Ben, when the mark was so fair and the + insult so foul. “O, Mr. Stuart,” exclaimed he, “only let me have one crack + at the infernal rascal, and you may keep all the pay that is due to me.” + </p> + <p> + “By heaven, if you fire,” cried Mr. Stuart, “I’ll blow your brains out.” + </p> + <p> + By this time the Indian was far out of reach, and had rejoined his men, + and the whole dare-devil band, with the captured horses, scuttled off + along the defiles, their red flag flaunting overhead, and the rocks + echoing to their whoops and yells, and demoniac laughter. + </p> + <p> + The unhorsed travellers gazed after them in silent mortification and + despair; yet Mr. Stuart could not but admire the style and spirit with + which the whole exploit had been managed, and pronounced it one of the + most daring and intrepid actions he had ever heard of among Indians. The + whole number of the Crows did not exceed twenty. In this way a small gang + of lurkers will hurry off the cavalry of a large war party, for when once + a drove of horses are seized with panic, they become frantic, and nothing + short of broken necks can stop them. + </p> + <p> + No one was more annoyed by this unfortunate occurrence than Ben Jones. He + declared he would actually have given his whole arrears of pay, amounting + to upwards of a year’s wages, rather than be balked of such a capital + shot. Mr. Stuart, however, represented what might have been the + consequence of so rash an act. Life for life is the Indian maxim. The + whole tribe would have made common cause in avenging the death of a + warrior. The party were but seven dismounted men, with a wide mountain + region to traverse, infested by these people, and which might all be + roused by signal fires. In fact, the conduct of the band of marauders in + question, showed the perseverance of savages when once they have fixed + their minds upon a project. These fellows had evidently been silent and + secretly dogging the party for a week past, and a distance of a hundred + and fifty miles, keeping out of sight by day, lurking about the encampment + at night, watching all their movements, and waiting for a favorable moment + when they should be off their guard. The menace of Mr. Stuart, in their + first interview, to shoot the giant chief with his pistol, and the fright + caused among the warriors by presenting the rifles, had probably added the + stimulus of pique to their usual horse-stealing propensities. And in this + mood of mind they would doubtless have followed the party throughout their + whole course over the Rocky Mountains, rather than be disappointed in + their scheme. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0047" id="link2HCH0047"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Travellers Unhorsed—Pedestrian Preparations—Prying Spies. + —Bonfires of Baggage—A March on Foot.—Rafting a River—The + Wounded Elk.—Indian Trails.—Willful Conduct of Mr. + M’Lellan.—Grand Prospect From a Mountain.—Distant Craters + of Volcanoes—Illness of Mr. Crooks. +</pre> + <p> + FEW reverses in this changeful world are more complete and disheartening + than that of a traveller, suddenly unhorsed, in the midst of the + wilderness. Our unfortunate travellers contemplated their situation, for a + time, in perfect dismay. A long journey over rugged mountains and + immeasurable plains lay before them, which they must painfully perform on + foot, and everything necessary for subsistence or defense must be carried + on their shoulders. Their dismay, however, was but transient, and they + immediately set to work, with that prompt expediency produced by the + exigencies of the wilderness, to fit themselves for the change in their + condition. + </p> + <p> + Their first attention was to select from their baggage such articles as + were indispensable to their journey; to make them up into convenient + packs, and to deposit the residue in caches. The whole day was consumed in + these occupations; at night, they made a scanty meal of their remaining + provisions, and lay down to sleep with heavy hearts. In the morning, they + were up and about at an early hour, and began to prepare their knapsacks + for a march, while Ben Jones repaired to an old beaver trap which he had + set in the river bank at some little distance from the camp. He was + rejoiced to find a middle-sized beaver there, sufficient for a morning’s + meal to his hungry comrades. On his way back with his prize, he observed + two heads peering over the edge of an impending cliff, several hundred + feet high, which he supposed to be a couple of wolves. As he continued on, + he now and then cast his eye up; heads were still there, looking down with + fixed and watchful gaze. A suspicion now flashed across his mind that they + might be Indian scouts; and, had they not been far above the reach of his + rifle, he would undoubtedly have regaled them with a shot. + </p> + <p> + On arriving at the camp, he directed the attention of his comrades to + these aerial observers. The same idea was at first entertained, that they + were wolves; but their immovable watchfulness soon satisfied every one + that they were Indians. It was concluded that they were watching the + movements of the party, to discover their place of concealment of such + articles as they would be compelled to leave behind. There was no + likelihood that the caches would escape the search of such keen eyes and + experienced rummagers, and the idea was intolerable that any more booty + should fall into their hands. To disappoint them, therefore, the + travellers stripped the caches of the articles deposited there, and + collecting together everything that they could not carry away with them, + made a bonfire of all that would burn, and threw the rest into the river. + There was a forlorn satisfaction in thus balking the Crows, by the + destruction of their own property; and, having thus gratified their pique, + they shouldered their packs, about ten o’clock in the morning, and set out + on their pedestrian wayfaring. + </p> + <p> + The route they took was down along the banks of Mad River. This stream + makes its way through the defiles of the mountains, into the plain below + Fort Henry, where it terminates in Snake River. Mr. Stuart was in hopes of + meeting with Snake encampments in the plain, where he might procure a + couple of horses to transport the baggage. In such case, he intended to + resume his eastern course across the mountains, and endeavor to reach the + Cheyenne River before winter. Should he fail, however, of obtaining + horses, he would probably be compelled to winter on the Pacific side of + the mountains, somewhere on the head waters of the Spanish or Colorado + River. + </p> + <p> + With all the care that had been observed in taking nothing with them that + was not absolutely necessary, the poor pedestrians were heavily laden, and + their burdens added to the fatigues of their rugged road. They suffered + much, too, from hunger. The trout they caught were too poor to yield much + nourishment; their main dependence, therefore, was upon an old beaver + trap, which they had providentially retained. Whenever they were fortunate + enough to entrap a beaver, it was cut up immediately and distributed, that + each man might carry his share. + </p> + <p> + After two days of toilsome travel, during which they made but eighteen + miles, they stopped on the 21st, to build two rafts on which to cross to + the north side of the river. On these they embarked on the following + morning, four on one raft, and three on the other, and pushed boldly from + shore. Finding the rafts sufficiently firm and steady to withstand the + rough and rapid water, they changed their minds, and instead of crossing, + ventured to float down with the current. The river was, in general, very + rapid, and from one to two hundred yards in width, winding in every + direction through mountains of hard black rock, covered with pines and + cedars. The mountains to the east of the river were spurs of the Rocky + range, and of great magnitude; those on the west were little better than + hills, bleak and barren, or scantily clothed with stunted grass. + </p> + <p> + Mad River, though deserving its name from the impetuosity of its current, + was free from rapids and cascades, and flowed on in a single channel + between gravel banks, often fringed with cotton-wood and dwarf willows in + abundance. These gave sustenance to immense quantities of beaver, so that + the voyagers found no difficulty in procuring food. Ben Jones, also, + killed a fallow deer and a wolverine, and as they were enabled to carry + the carcasses on their rafts, their larder was well supplied. Indeed, they + might have occasionally shot beavers that were swimming in the river as + they floated by, but they humanely spared their lives, being in no want of + meat at the time. In this way, they kept down the river for three days, + drifting with the current and encamping on land at night, when they drew + up their rafts on shore. Towards the evening of the third day, they came + to a little island on which they descried a gang of elk. Ben Jones landed, + and was fortunate enough to wound one, which immediately took to the + water, but, being unable to stem the current, drifted above a mile, when + it was overtaken and drawn to shore. As a storm was gathering, they now + encamped on the margin of the river, where they remained all the next day, + sheltering themselves as well as they could from the rain and snow—a + sharp foretaste of the impending winter. During their encampment, they + employed themselves in jerking a part of the elk for future supply. In + cutting up the carcass, they found that the animal had been wounded by + hunters, about a week previously, an arrow head and a musket ball + remaining in the wounds. In the wilderness, every trivial circumstance is + a matter of anxious speculation. The Snake Indians have no guns; the elk, + therefore, could not have been wounded by one of them. They were on the + borders of the country infested by the Blackfeet, who carry fire-arms. It + was concluded, therefore, that the elk had been hunted by some of that + wandering and hostile tribe, who, of course, must be in the neighborhood. + The idea put an end to the transient solace they had enjoyed in the + comparative repose and abundance of the river. + </p> + <p> + For three days longer they continued to navigate with their rafts. The + recent storm had rendered the weather extremely cold. They had now floated + down the river about ninety-one miles, when finding the mountains on the + right diminished to moderate sized hills, they landed, and prepared to + resume their journey on foot. Accordingly, having spent a day in + preparations, making moccasins, and parceling out their jerked meat in + packs of twenty pounds to each man, they turned their backs upon the river + on the 29th of September and struck off to the northeast, keeping along + the southern skirt of the mountain on which Henry’s Fort was situated. + </p> + <p> + Their march was slow and toilsome; part of the time through an alluvial + bottom, thickly grown with cotton-wood, hawthorn, and willows, and part of + the time over rough hills. Three antelopes came within shot, but they + dared not fire at them, lest the report of their rifles should betray them + to the Blackfeet. In the course of the day, they came upon a large + horse-track, apparently about three weeks old, and in the evening encamped + on the banks of a small stream, on a spot which had been the camping place + of this same band. + </p> + <p> + On the following morning they still observed the Indian track, but after a + time they came to where it separated in every direction, and was lost. + This showed that the band had dispersed in various hunting parties, and + was, in all probability, still in the neighborhood; it was necessary, + therefore, to proceed with the utmost caution. They kept a vigilant eye as + they marched, upon every height where a scout might be posted, and scanned + the solitary landscapes and the distant ravines, to observe any column of + smoke; but nothing of the kind was to be seen; all was indescribably stern + and lifeless. + </p> + <p> + Towards evening they came to where there were several hot springs, + strongly impregnated with iron and sulphur, and sending up a volume of + vapor that tainted the surrounding atmosphere, and might be seen at the + distance of a couple of miles. + </p> + <p> + Near to these they encamped in a deep gully, which afforded some + concealment. To their great concern, Mr. Crooks, who had been indisposed + for the two preceding days, had a violent fever in the night. + </p> + <p> + Shortly after daybreak they resumed their march. On emerging from the + glen, a consultation was held as to their course. Should they continue + round the skirt of the mountain, they would be in danger of falling in + with the scattered parties of Blackfeet, who were probably hunting in the + plain. It was thought most advisable, therefore, to strike directly across + the mountain, since the route, though rugged and difficult, would be most + secure. This counsel was indignantly derided by M’Lellan as pusillanimous. + Hot-headed and impatient at all times, he had been rendered irascible by + the fatigues of the journey, and the condition of his feet, which were + chafed and sore. He could not endure the idea of encountering the + difficulties of the mountain, and swore he would rather face all the + Blackfeet in the country. He was overruled, however, and the party began + to ascend the mountain, striving, with the ardor and emulation of young + men, who should be first up. M’Lellan, who was double the age of some of + his companions, soon began to lose breath, and fall in the rear. In the + distribution of burdens, it was his turn to carry the old beaver trap. + Piqued and irritated, he suddenly came to a halt, swore he would carry it + no further, and jerked it half-way down the hill. He was offered in place + of it a package of dried meat, but this he scornfully threw upon the + ground. They might carry it, he said, who needed it; for his part, he + could provide his daily bread with his rifle. He concluded by flinging off + from the party, and keeping along the skirts of the mountain, leaving + those, he said, to climb rocks, who were afraid to face Indians. It was in + vain that Mr. Stuart represented to him the rashness of his conduct, and + the dangers to which he exposed himself: he rejected such counsel as + craven. It was equally useless to represent the dangers to which he + subjected his companions; as he could be discovered at a great distance on + those naked plains, and the Indians, seeing him, would know that there + must be other white men within reach. M’Lellan turned a deaf ear to every + remonstrance, and kept on his wilful way. + </p> + <p> + It seemed a strange instance of perverseness in this man thus to fling + himself off alone, in a savage region, where solitude itself was dismal, + and every encounter with his fellow-man full of peril. Such, however, is + the hardness of spirit, and the insensibility to danger that grow upon men + in the wilderness. M’Lellan, moreover, was a man of peculiar temperament, + ungovernable in his will, of a courage that absolutely knew no fear, and + somewhat of a braggart spirit, that took a pride in doing desperate and + hair-brained things. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart and his party found the passages of the mountain somewhat + difficult, on account of the snow, which in many places was of + considerable depth, though it was but the 1st of October. They crossed the + summit early in the afternoon, and beheld below them, a plain about twenty + miles wide, bounded on the opposite side by their old acquaintances, the + Pilot Knobs, those towering mountains which had served Mr. Hunt as + landmarks in part of his route of the preceding year. Through the + intermediate plain wandered a river about fifty yards wide, sometimes + gleaming in open day, but oftener running through willowed banks, which + marked its serpentine course. + </p> + <p> + Those of the party who had been across these mountains, pointed out much + of the bearings of the country to Mr. Stuart. They showed him in what + direction must lie the deserted post called Henry’s Fort, where they had + abandoned their horses and embarked in canoes, and they informed him that + the stream which wandered through the plain below them, fell into Henry + River, half way between the fort and the mouth of Mad or Snake River. The + character of all this mountain region was decidedly volcanic; and to the + northwest, between Henry’s Fort and the source of the Missouri, Mr. Stuart + observed several very high peaks covered with snow, from two of which + smoke ascended in considerable volumes, apparently from craters in a state + of eruption. + </p> + <p> + On their way down the mountain, when they had reached the skirts, they + descried M’Lellan at a distance, in the advance, traversing the plain. + Whether he saw them or not, he showed no disposition to rejoin them, but + pursued his sullen and solitary way. + </p> + <p> + After descending into the plain, they kept on about six miles, until they + reached the little river, which was here about knee deep, and richly + fringed with willow. Here they encamped for the night. At this encampment + the fever of Mr. Crooks increased to such a degree that it was impossible + for him to travel. Some of the men were strenuous for Mr. Stuart to + proceed without him, urging the imminent danger they were exposed to by + delay in that unknown and barren region, infested by the most treacherous + and inveterate foes. They represented that the season was rapidly + advancing; the weather for some days had been extremely cold; the + mountains were already almost impassable from snow, and would soon present + effectual barriers. Their provisions were exhausted; there was no game to + be seen, and they did not dare to use their rifles, through fear of + drawing upon them the Blackfeet. + </p> + <p> + The picture thus presented was too true to be contradicted, and made a + deep impression on the mind of Mr. Stuart; but the idea of abandoning a + fellow being, and a comrade, in such a forlorn situation, was too + repugnant to his feelings to be admitted for an instant. He represented to + the men that the malady of Mr. Crooks could not be of long duration, and + that, in all probability, he would be able to travel in the course of a + few days. It was with great difficulty, however, that he prevailed upon + them to abide the event. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0048" id="link2HCH0048"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Ben Jones and a Grizzly Bear.—Rocky Heights—Mountain + Torrents.—Traces of M’Lellan.—Volcanic Remains—Mineral + Earths.—Peculiar Clay for Pottery.—Dismal Plight of + M’Lellan.—Starvation.—Shocking Proposition of a Desperate + Man.—A Broken-Down Bull.—A Ravenous Meal.—Indian Graves— + Hospitable Snakes.-A Forlorn Alliance. +</pre> + <p> + AS the travellers were now in a dangerous neighborhood, where the report + of a rifle might bring the savages upon them, they had to depend upon + their old beaver-trap for subsistence. The little river on which they were + encamped gave many “beaver signs,” and Ben Jones set off at daybreak, + along the willowed banks, to find a proper trapping-place. As he was + making his way among the thickets, with his trap on his shoulder and his + rifle in his hand, he heard a crushing sound, and turning, beheld a huge + grizzly bear advancing upon him, with terrific growl. The sturdy + Kentuckian was not to be intimidated by man or monster. Leveling his + rifle, he pulled the trigger. The bear was wounded, but not mortally: + instead, however, of rushing upon his assailant, as is generally the case + with this kind of bear, he retreated into the bushes. Jones followed him + for some distance, but with suitable caution, and Bruin effected his + escape. + </p> + <p> + As there was every prospect of a detention of some days in this place, and + as the supplies of the beaver-trap were too precarious to be depended + upon, it became absolutely necessary to run some risk of discovery by + hunting in the neighborhood. Ben Jones, therefore, obtained permission to + range with his rifle some distance from the camp, and set off to beat up + the river banks, in defiance of bear or Blackfeet. + </p> + <p> + He returned in great spirits in the course of a few hours, having come + upon a gang of elk about six miles off, and killed five. This was joyful + news, and the party immediately moved forward to the place where he had + left the carcasses. They were obliged to support Mr. Crooks the whole + distance, for he was unable to walk. Here they remained for two or three + days, feasting heartily on elk meat, and drying as much as they would be + able to carry away with them. + </p> + <p> + By the 5th of October, some simple prescriptions, together with an “Indian + sweat,” had so far benefited Mr. Crooks, that he was enabled to move + about; they therefore set forward slowly, dividing his pack and + accoutrements among them, and made a creeping day’s progress of eight + miles south. Their route for the most part lay through swamps caused by + the industrious labors of the beaver; for this little animal had dammed up + numerous small streams, issuing from the Pilot Knob Mountains, so that the + low grounds on their borders were completely inundated. In the course of + their march they killed a grizzly bear, with fat on its flanks upwards of + three inches in thickness. This was an acceptable addition to their stock + of elk meat. The next day Mr. Crooks was sufficiently recruited in + strength to be able to carry his rifle and pistols, and they made a march + of seventeen miles along the borders of the plain. + </p> + <p> + Their journey daily became more toilsome, and their sufferings more + severe, as they advanced. Keeping up the channel of a river, they + traversed the rugged summit of the Pilot Knob Mountain, covered with snow + nine inches deep. For several days they continued, bending their course as + much as possible to the east, over a succession of rocky heights, deep + valleys, and rapid streams. Sometimes their dizzy path lay along the + margin of perpendicular precipices, several hundred feet in height, where + a single false step might precipitate them into the rocky bed of a torrent + which roared below. Not the least part of their weary task was the fording + of the numerous windings and branchings of the mountain rivers, all + boisterous in their currents, and icy cold. + </p> + <p> + Hunger was added to their other sufferings, and soon became the keenest. + The small supply of bear and elk meat which they had been able to carry, + in addition to their previous burdens, served but for a short time. In + their anxiety to struggle forward, they had but little time to hunt, and + scarce any game in their path. For three days they had nothing to eat but + a small duck, and a few poor trout. They occasionally saw numbers of the + antelopes, and tried every art to get within shot; but the timid animals + were more than commonly wild, and after tantalizing the hungry hunters for + a time, bounded away beyond all chance of pursuit. At length they were + fortunate enough to kill one: it was extremely meagre, and yielded but a + scanty supply; but on this they subsisted for several days. + </p> + <p> + On the 11th, they encamped on a small stream, near the foot of the Spanish + River Mountain. Here they met with traces of that wayward and solitary + being, M’Lellan, who was still keeping on ahead of them through these + lonely mountains. He had encamped the night before on this stream; they + found the embers of the fire by which he had slept, and the remains of a + miserable wolf on which he had supped. It was evident he had suffered, + like themselves, the pangs of hunger, though he had fared better at this + encampment; for they had not a mouthful to eat. + </p> + <p> + The next day, they rose hungry and alert, and set out with the dawn to + climb the mountain, which was steep and difficult. Traces of volcanic + eruptions were to be seen in various directions. There was a species of + clay also to be met with, out of which the Indians manufactured pots and + jars, and dishes. It is very fine and light, of an agreeable smell, and of + a brown color spotted with yellow, and dissolves readily in the mouth. + Vessels manufactured of it are said to impart a pleasant smell and flavor + to any liquids. These mountains abound also with mineral earths, or chalks + of various colors; especially two kinds of ochre, one a pale, the other a + bright red, like vermilion; much used by the Indians, in painting their + bodies. + </p> + <p> + About noon, the travellers reached the “drains” and brooks that formed the + head waters of the river, and later in the day, descended to where the + main body, a shallow stream, about a hundred and sixty yards wide, poured + through its mountain valley. + </p> + <p> + Here the poor famishing wanderers had expected to find buffalo in + abundance, and had fed their hungry hopes during their scrambling toll, + with the thoughts of roasted ribs, juicy humps, and broiled marrow bones. + To their great disappointment, the river banks were deserted—a few + old tracks showed where a herd of bulls had some time before passed along, + but not a horn nor hump was to be seen in the sterile landscape. A few + antelopes looked down upon them from the brow of a crag, but flitted away + out of sight at the least approach of the hunter. + </p> + <p> + In the most starving mood they kept for several miles further along the + bank of the river, seeking for “beaver signs.” Finding some, they encamped + in the vicinity, and Ben Jones immediately proceeded to set the trap. They + had scarce come to a halt, when they perceived a large smoke at some + distance to the southwest. The sight was hailed with joy, for they trusted + it might rise from some Indian camp, where they could procure something to + eat, and the dread of starvation had now overcome even the terror of the + Blackfeet. Le Clerc, one of the Canadians, was instantly despatched by Mr. + Stuart, to reconnoitre; and the travellers sat up till a late hour, + watching and listening for his return, hoping he might bring them food. + Midnight arrived, but Le Clerc did not make his appearance, and they laid + down once more supperless to sleep, comforting themselves with the hopes + that their old beaver trap might furnish them with a breakfast. + </p> + <p> + At daybreak they hastened with famished eagerness to the trap. They found + in it the forepaw of a beaver, the sight of which tantalized their hunger, + and added to their dejection. They resumed their journey with flagging + spirits, but had not gone far when they perceived Le Clerc approaching at + a distance. They hastened to meet him, in hopes of tidings of good cheer. + He had none to give them; but news of that strange wanderer, M’Lellan. The + smoke had risen from his encampment which took fire while he was at a + little distance from it fishing. Le Clerc found him in forlorn condition. + His fishing had been unsuccessful. During twelve days that he had been + wandering alone through these savage mountains, he had found scarce + anything to eat. He had been ill, wayworn, sick at heart, still he had + kept forward; but now his strength and his stubbornness were exhausted. He + expressed his satisfaction at hearing that Mr. Stuart and his party were + near, and said he would wait at his camp for their arrival, in hopes they + would give him something to eat, for without food he declared he should + not be able to proceed much further. + </p> + <p> + When the party reached the place, they found the poor fellow lying on a + parcel of withered grass, wasted to a perfect skeleton, and so feeble that + he could scarce raise his head or speak. The presence of his old comrades + seemed to revive him, but they had no food to give him, for they + themselves were almost starving. They urged him to rise and accompany + them, but he shook his head. It was all in vain, he said; there was no + prospect of their getting speedy relief, and without it he should perish + by the way; he might as well, therefore, stay and die where he was. At + length, after much persuasion, they got him upon his legs; his rifle and + other effects were shared among them, and he was cheered and aided + forward. In this way they proceeded for seventeen miles, over a level + plain of sand, until seeing a few antelopes in the distance, they encamped + on the margin of a small stream. All now that were capable of the + exertion, turned out to hunt for a meal. Their efforts were fruitless, and + after dark they returned to their camp, famished almost to desperation. + </p> + <p> + As they were preparing for the third time to lay down to sleep without a + mouthful to eat, Le Clerc, one of the Canadians, gaunt and wild with + hunger, approached Mr. Stuart with his gun in his hand. “It was all in + vain,” he said, “to attempt to proceed any further without food. They had + a barren plain before them, three or four days’ journey in extent, on + which nothing was to be procured. They must all perish before they could + get to the end of it. It was better, therefore, that one should die to + save the rest.” He proposed, therefore, that they should cast lots; + adding, as an inducement for Mr. Stuart to assent to the proposition, that + he, as leader of the party, should be exempted. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart shuddered at the horrible proposition, and endeavored to reason + with the man, but his words were unavailing. At length, snatching up his + rifle, he threatened to shoot him on the spot if he persisted. The + famished wretch dropped on his knees, begged pardon in the most abject + terms, and promised never again to offend him with such a suggestion. + </p> + <p> + Quiet being restored to the forlorn encampment, each one sought repose. + Mr. Stuart, however, was so exhausted by the agitation of the past scene, + acting upon his emaciated frame, that he could scarce crawl to his + miserable couch; where, notwithstanding his fatigues, he passed a + sleepless night, revolving upon their dreary situation, and the desperate + prospect before them. + </p> + <p> + Before daylight the next morning, they were up and on their way; they had + nothing to detain them; no breakfast to prepare, and to linger was to + perish. They proceeded, however, but slowly, for all were faint and weak. + Here and there they passed the skulls and bones of buffaloes, which showed + that these animals must have been hunted here during the past season; the + sight of these bones served only to mock their misery. After travelling + about nine miles along the plain, they ascended a range of hills, and had + scarcely gone two miles further, when, to their great joy, they discovered + “an old run-down buffalo bull;” the laggard probably of some herd that had + been hunted and harassed through the mountains. They now all stretched + themselves out to encompass and make sure of this solitary animal, for + their lives depended upon their success. After considerable trouble and + infinite anxiety, they at length succeeded in killing him. He was + instantly flayed and cut up, and so ravenous was their hunger, that they + devoured some of the flesh raw. The residue they carried to a brook near + by, where they encamped, lit a fire, and began to cook. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart was fearful that in their famished state they would eat to + excess and injure themselves. He caused a soup to be made of some of the + meat, and that each should take a quantity of it as a prelude to his + supper. This may have had a beneficial effect, for though they sat up the + greater part of the night, cooking and cramming, no one suffered any + inconvenience. + </p> + <p> + The next morning the feasting was resumed, and about midday, feeling + somewhat recruited and refreshed, they set out on their journey with + renovated spirits, shaping their course towards a mountain, the summit of + which they saw towering in the east, and near to which they expected to + find the head waters of the Missouri. + </p> + <p> + As they proceeded, they continued to see the skeletons of buffaloes + scattered about the plain in every direction, which showed that there had + been much hunting here by the Indians in the recent season. Further on + they crossed a large Indian trail forming a deep path, about fifteen days + old, which went in a north direction. They concluded it to have been made + by some numerous band of Crows, who had hunted in this country for the + greater part of the summer. + </p> + <p> + On the following day they forded a stream of considerable magnitude, with + banks clothed with pine trees. Among these they found the traces of a + large Indian camp, which had evidently been the headquarters of a hunting + expedition, from the great quantities of buffalo bones strewed about the + neighborhood. The camp had apparently been abandoned about a month. + </p> + <p> + In the centre was a singular lodge one hundred and fifty feet in + circumference, supported by the trunks of twenty trees, about twelve + inches in diameter and forty-four feet long. Across these were laid + branches of pine and willow trees, so as to yield a tolerable shade. At + the west end, immediately opposite to the door, three bodies lay interred + with their feet towards the east. At the head of each was a branch of red + cedar firmly planted in the ground. At the foot was a large buffalo’s + skull, painted black. Savage ornaments were suspended in various parts of + the edifice, and a great number of children’s moccasins. From the + magnitude of this building, and the time and labor that must have been + expended in erecting it, the bodies which it contained were probably those + of noted warriors and hunters. + </p> + <p> + The next day, October 17th, they passed two large tributary streams of the + Spanish River. They took their rise in the Wind River Mountains, which + ranged along to the east, stupendously high and rugged, composed of vast + masses of black rock, almost destitute of wood, and covered in many places + with snow. This day they saw a few buffalo bulls, and some antelopes, but + could not kill any; and their stock of provisions began to grow scanty as + well as poor. + </p> + <p> + On the 18th, after crossing a mountain ridge, and traversing a plain, they + waded one of the branches of Spanish River, and on ascending its bank, met + with about a hundred and thirty Snake Indians. They were friendly in their + demeanor, and conducted them to their encampment, which was about three + miles distant. It consisted of about forty wigwams, constructed + principally of pine branches. The Snakes, like most of their nation, were + very poor; the marauding Crows, in their late excursion through the + country, had picked this unlucky band to the very bone, carrying off their + horses, several of their squaws, and most of their effects. In spite of + their poverty, they were hospitable in the extreme, and made the hungry + strangers welcome to their cabins. A few trinkets procured from them a + supply of buffalo meat, and of leather for moccasins, of which the party + were greatly in need. The most valuable prize obtained from them, however, + was a horse; it was a sorry old animal in truth, but it was the only one + that remained to the poor fellows, after the fell swoop of the Crows; yet + this they were prevailed upon to part with to their guests for a pistol, + an axe, a knife, and a few other trifling articles. + </p> + <p> + They had doleful stories to tell of the Crows, who were encamped on a + river at no great distance to the east, and were in such force that they + dared not venture to seek any satisfaction for their outrages, or to get + back a horse or squaw. They endeavored to excite the indignation of their + visitors by accounts of robberies and murders committed on lonely white + hunters and trappers by Crows and Blackfeet. Some of these were + exaggerations of the outrages already mentioned, sustained by some of the + scattered members of Mr. Hunt’s expedition; others were in all probability + sheer fabrications, to which the Snakes seem to have been a little prone. + Mr. Stuart assured them that the day was not far distant when the whites + would make their power to be felt throughout that country, and take signal + vengeance on the perpetrators of these misdeeds. The Snakes expressed + great joy at the intelligence, and offered their services to aid the + righteous cause, brightening at the thoughts of taking the field with such + potent allies, and doubtless anticipating their turn at stealing horses + and abducting squaws. Their offers, of course, were accepted; the calumet + of peace was produced, and the two forlorn powers smoked eternal + friendship between themselves, and vengeance upon their common spoilers, + the Crows. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0049" id="link2HCH0049"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLVIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Spanish River Scenery.—Trail of Crow Indians.—A Snow- + Storm.—A Rousing Fire and a Buffalo Feast.—A Plain of + Salt.—Climbing a Mountain.—Volcanic Summit.—Extinguished + Crater.—Marine Shells.—Encampment on a Prairie.— + Successful Hunting.—Good Cheer.—Romantic Scenery—Rocky + Defile.—Foaming Rapids.—The Fiery Narrows. +</pre> + <p> + BY sunrise on the following morning (October 19th), the travellers had + loaded their old horse with buffalo meat, sufficient for five days’ + provisions, and, taking leave of their new allies, the poor, but + hospitable Snakes, set forth in somewhat better spirits, though the + increasing cold of the weather, and the sight of the snowy mountains which + they had yet to traverse, were enough to chill their very hearts. The + country along this branch of the Spanish River, as far as they could see, + was perfectly level, bounded by ranges of lofty mountains, both to the + east and west. They proceeded about three miles to the south, where they + came again upon the large trail of Crow Indians, which they had crossed + four days previously, made, no doubt, by the same marauding band that had + plundered the Snakes; and which, according to the account of the latter, + was now encamped on a stream to the eastward. The trail kept on to the + southeast, and was so well beaten by horse and foot, that they supposed at + least a hundred lodges had passed along it. As it formed, therefore, a + convenient highway, and ran in a proper direction, they turned into it, + and determined to keep along it as far as safety would permit: as the Crow + encampment must be some distance off, and it was not likely those savages + would return upon their steps. They travelled forward, therefore, all that + day, in the track of their dangerous predecessors, which led them across + mountain streams, and long ridges, and through narrow valleys, all tending + generally towards the southeast. The wind blew coldly from the northeast, + with occasional flurries of snow, which made them encamp early, on the + sheltered banks of a brook. The two Canadians, Vallee and Le Clerc, killed + a young buffalo bull in the evening, which was in good condition, and + afforded them a plentiful supply of fresh beef. They loaded their spits, + therefore, and crammed their camp kettle with meat, and while the wind + whistled, and the snow whirled around them, huddled round a rousing fire, + basked in its warmth, and comforted both soul and body with a hearty and + invigorating meal. No enjoyments have greater zest than these, snatched in + the very midst of difficulty and danger; and it is probable the poor + wayworn and weather-beaten travellers relished these creature comforts the + more highly from the surrounding desolation, and the dangerous proximity + of the Crows. + </p> + <p> + The snow which had fallen in the night made it late in the morning before + the party loaded their solitary packhorse, and resumed their march. They + had not gone far before the Crow trace which they were following changed + its direction, and bore to the north of east. They had already begun to + feel themselves on dangerous ground in keeping along it, as they might be + descried by some scouts and spies of that race of Ishmaelites, whose + predatory life required them to be constantly on the alert. On seeing the + trace turn so much to the north, therefore, they abandoned it, and kept on + their course to the southeast for eighteen miles, through a beautifully + undulating country, having the main chain of mountains on the left, and a + considerably elevated ridge on the right. Here the mountain ridge which + divides Wind River from the head waters of the Columbia and Spanish + Rivers, ends abruptly, and winding to the north of east, becomes the + dividing barrier between a branch of the Big Horn and Cheyenne Rivers, and + those head waters which flow into the Missouri below the Sioux country. + </p> + <p> + The ridge which lay on the right of the travellers having now become very + low, they passed over it, and came into a level plain, about ten miles in + circumference, and incrusted to the depth of a foot or eighteen inches + with salt as white as snow. This is furnished by numerous salt springs of + limpid water, which are continually welling up, overflowing their borders, + and forming beautiful crystallizations. The Indian tribes of the interior + are excessively fond of this salt, and repair to the valley to collect it, + but it is held in distaste by the tribes of the sea-coast, who will eat + nothing that has been cured or seasoned by it. + </p> + <p> + This evening they encamped on the banks of a small stream, in the open + prairie. The northeast wind was keen and cutting; they had nothing + wherewith to make a fire, but a scanty growth of sage, or wormwood, and + were fain to wrap themselves up in their blankets, and huddle themselves + in their “nests,” at an early hour. In the course of the evening, Mr. + M’Lellan, who had now regained his strength, killed a buffalo, but it was + some distance from the camp, and they postponed supplying themselves from + the carcass until the following morning. + </p> + <p> + The next day (October 21st), the cold continued, accompanied by snow. They + set forward on their bleak and toilsome way, keeping to the east + northeast, towards the lofty summit of a mountain, which it was necessary + for them to cross. Before they reached its base they passed another large + trail, steering a little to the right of the point of the mountain. This + they presumed to have been made by another band of Crows, who had probably + been hunting lower down on the Spanish River. + </p> + <p> + The severity of the weather compelled them to encamp at the end of fifteen + miles, on the skirts of the mountain, where they found sufficient dry + aspen trees to supply them with fire, but they sought in vain about the + neighborhood for a spring or rill of water. + </p> + <p> + At daybreak they were up and on the march, scrambling up the mountain side + for the distance of eight painful miles. From the casual hints given in + the travelling memoranda of Mr. Stuart, this mountain would seem to offer + a rich field of speculation for the geologist. Here was a plain three + miles in diameter, strewed with pumice stones and other volcanic reliques, + with a lake in the centre, occupying what had probably been the crater. + Here were also, in some places, deposits of marine shells, indicating that + this mountain crest had at some remote period been below the waves. + </p> + <p> + After pausing to repose, and to enjoy these grand but savage and awful + scenes, they began to descend the eastern side of the mountain. The + descent was rugged and romantic, along deep ravines and defiles, overhung + with crags and cliffs, among which they beheld numbers of the ahsahta or + bighorn, skipping fearlessly from rock to rock. Two of them they succeeded + in bringing down with their rifles, as they peered fearlessly from the + brow of their airy precipices. + </p> + <p> + Arrived at the foot of the mountain, the travellers found a rill of water + oozing out of the earth, and resembling in look and taste, the water of + the Missouri. Here they encamped for the night, and supped sumptuously + upon their mountain mutton, which they found in good condition, and + extremely well tasted. + </p> + <p> + The morning was bright, and intensely cold. Early in the day they came + upon a stream running to the east, between low hills of bluish earth, + strongly impregnated with copperas. Mr. Stuart supposed this to be one of + the head waters of the Missouri, and determined to follow its banks. After + a march of twenty-six miles, however, he arrived at the summit of a hill, + the prospect of which induced him to alter his intention. He beheld, in + every direction south of east, a vast plain, bounded only by the horizon, + through which wandered the stream in question, in a south-south-east + direction. It could not, therefore, be a branch of the Missouri. He now + gave up all idea of taking the stream for his guide, and shaped his course + towards a range of mountains in the east, about sixty miles distant, near + which he hoped to find another stream. + </p> + <p> + The weather was now so severe, and the hardships of travelling so great, + that he resolved to halt for the winter, at the first eligible place. That + night they had to encamp on the open prairie, near a scanty pool of water, + and without any wood to make a fire. The northeast wind blew keenly across + the naked waste, and they were fain to decamp from their inhospitable + bivouac before the dawn. + </p> + <p> + For two days they kept on in an eastward direction, against wintry blasts + and occasional snow storms. They suffered, also, from scarcity of water, + having occasionally to use melted snow; this, with the want of pasturage, + reduced their old pack-horse sadly. They saw many tracks of buffalo, and + some few bulls, which, however, got the wind of them, and scampered off. + </p> + <p> + On the 26th of October, they steered east-northeast, for a wooded ravine + in a mountain, at a small distance from the base of which, to their great + joy, they discovered an abundant stream, running between willowed banks. + Here they halted for the night, and Ben Jones having luckily trapped a + beaver, and killed two buffalo bulls, they remained all the next day + encamped, feasting and reposing, and allowing their jaded horse to rest + from his labors. + </p> + <p> + The little stream on which they were encamped, was one of the head waters + of the Platte River, which flows into the Missouri; it was, in fact, the + northern fork, or branch of that river, though this the travellers did not + discover until long afterwards. Pursuing the course of this stream for + about twenty miles, they came to where it forced a passage through a range + of high hills, covered with cedars, into an extensive low country, + affording excellent pasture to numerous herds of buffalo. Here they killed + three cows, which were the first they had been able to get, having + hitherto had to content themselves with bull beef, which at this season of + the year is very poor. The hump meat afforded them a repast fit for an + epicure. + </p> + <p> + Late on the afternoon of the 30th, they came to where the stream, now + increased to a considerable size, poured along in a ravine between + precipices of red stone, two hundred feet in height. For some distance it + dashed along, over huge masses of rock, with foaming violence, as if + exasperated by being compressed into so narrow a channel, and at length + leaped down a chasm that looked dark and frightful in the gathering + twilight. + </p> + <p> + For a part of the next day, the wild river, in its capricious wanderings, + led them through a variety of striking scenes. At one time they were upon + high plains, like platforms among the mountains, with herds of buffaloes + roaming about them; at another among rude rocky defiles, broken into + cliffs and precipices, where the blacktailed deer bounded off among the + crags, and the bighorn basked in the sunny brow of the precipice. + </p> + <p> + In the after part of the day, they came to another scene, surpassing in + savage grandeur those already described. They had been travelling for some + distance through a pass of the mountains, keeping parallel with the river, + as it roared along, out of sight, through a deep ravine. Sometimes their + devious path approached the margin of cliffs below which the river foamed, + and boiled, and whirled among the masses of rock that had fallen into its + channel. As they crept cautiously on, leading their solitary pack-horse + along these giddy heights, they all at once came to where the river + thundered down a succession of precipices, throwing up clouds of spray, + and making a prodigious din and uproar. The travellers remained, for a + time, gazing with mingled awe and delight, at this furious cataract, to + which Mr. Stuart gave, from the color of the impending rocks, the name of + “The Fiery Narrows.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0050" id="link2HCH0050"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XLIX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Wintry Storms.—A Halt and Council.—Cantonment for the + Winter.—Fine Hunting Country.—Game of the Mountains and + Plains.-Successful Hunting—Mr. Crooks and a Grizzly Bear.— + The Wigwam.—Bighorn and Black-Tails.—Beef and Venison.— + Good Quarters and Good Cheer.—An Alarm.—An Intrusion.— + Unwelcome Guests.-Desolation of the Larder.—Gormandizing + Exploits of Hungry Savages.—Good Quarters Abandoned. +</pre> + <p> + THE travellers encamped for the night on the banks of the river below the + cataract. The night was cold, with partial showers of rain and sleet. The + morning dawned gloomily, the skies were sullen and overcast, and + threatened further storms; but the little band resumed their journey, in + defiance of the weather. The increasing rigor of the season, however, + which makes itself felt early in these mountainous regions, and on these + naked and elevated plains, brought them to a pause, and a serious + deliberation, after they had descended about thirty miles further along + the course of the river. + </p> + <p> + All were convinced that it was in vain to attempt to accomplish their + journey, on foot, at this inclement season. They had still many hundred + miles to traverse before they should reach the main course of the + Missouri, and their route would lay over immense prairies, naked and + bleak, and destitute of fuel. The question then was, where to choose their + wintering place, and whether or not to proceed further down the river. + They had at first imagined it to be one of the head waters, or tributary + streams, of the Missouri. Afterwards they had believed it to be the Rapid, + or Quicourt River, in which opinion they had not come nearer to the truth; + they now, however, were persuaded, with equal fallacy, by its inclining + somewhat to the north of east, that it was the Cheyenne. If so, by + continuing down it much further they must arrive among the Indians, from + whom the river takes its name. Among these they would be sure to meet some + of the Sioux tribe. These would appraise their relatives, the piratical + Sioux of the Missouri, of the approach of a band of white traders; so + that, in the spring time, they would be likely to be waylaid and robbed on + their way down the river, by some party in ambush upon its banks. + </p> + <p> + Even should this prove to be the Quicourt or Rapid River, it would not be + prudent to winter much further down upon its banks, as, though they might + be out of the range of the Sioux, they would be in the neighborhood of the + Poncas, a tribe nearly as dangerous. It was resolved, therefore, since + they must winter somewhere on this side of the Missouri, to descend no + lower, but to keep up in these solitary regions, where they would be in no + danger of molestation. + </p> + <p> + They were brought the more promptly and unanimously to this decision, by + coming upon an excellent wintering place, that promised everything + requisite for their comfort. It was on a fine bend of the river, just + below where it issued out from among a ridge of mountains, and bent + towards the northeast. Here was a beautiful low point of land, covered by + cotton-wood, and surrounded by a thick growth of willow, so as to yield + both shelter and fuel, as well as materials for building. The river swept + by in a strong current, about a hundred and fifty yards wide. To the + southeast were mountains of moderate height, the nearest about two miles + off, but the whole chain ranging to the east, south, and southwest, as far + as the eye could reach. Their summits were crowned with extensive tracts + of pitch pine, checkered with small patches of the quivering aspen. Lower + down were thick forests of firs and red cedars, growing out in many places + from the very fissures of the rocks. The mountains were broken and + precipitous, with huge bluffs protruding from among the forests. + </p> + <p> + Their rocky recesses and beetling cliffs afforded retreats to innumerable + flocks of the bighorn, while their woody summits and ravines abounded with + bears and black-tailed deer. These, with the numerous herds of buffalo + that ranged the lower grounds along the river, promised the travellers + abundant cheer in their winter quarters. + </p> + <p> + On the 2d of November, therefore, they pitched their camp for the winter, + on the woody point, and their first thought was to obtain a supply of + provisions. Ben Jones and the two Canadians accordingly sallied forth, + accompanied by two others of the party, leaving but one to watch the camp. + Their hunting was uncommonly successful. In the course of two days, they + killed thirty-two buffaloes, and collected their meat on the margin of a + small brook, about a mile distant. Fortunately, a severe frost froze the + river, so that the meat was easily transported to the encampment. On a + succeeding day, a herd of buffalo came trampling through the woody bottom + on the river banks, and fifteen more were killed. + </p> + <p> + It was soon discovered, however, that there was game of a more dangerous + nature in the neighborhood. On one occasion, Mr. Crooks had wandered about + a mile from the camp, and had ascended a small hill commanding a view of + the river. He was without his rifle, a rare circumstance, for in these + wild regions, where one may put up a wild animal, or a wild Indian, at + every turn, it is customary never to stir from the camp-fire unarmed. The + hill where he stood overlooked the place where the massacre of the buffalo + had taken place. As he was looking around on the prospect, his eye was + caught by an object below, moving directly towards him. To his dismay, he + discovered it to be a grizzly bear, with two cubs. There was no tree at + hand into which he could climb; to run, would only be to provoke pursuit, + and he should soon be overtaken. He threw himself on the ground, + therefore, and lay motionless, watching the movements of the animal with + intense anxiety. It continued to advance until at the foot of the hill, + when it turned, and made into the woods, having probably gorged itself + with buffalo flesh. Mr. Crooks made all haste back to the camp, rejoicing + at his escape, and determining never to stir out again without his rifle. + A few days after this circumstance, a grizzly bear was shot in the + neighborhood by Mr. Miller. + </p> + <p> + As the slaughter of so many buffaloes had provided the party with beef for + the winter, in case they met with no further supply, they now set to work, + heart and hand, to build a comfortable wigwam. In a little while the woody + promontory rang with the unwonted sound of the axe. Some of its lofty + trees were laid low, and by the second evening the cabin was complete. It + was eight feet wide, and eighteen feet long. The walls were six feet high, + and the whole was covered with buffalo skins. The fireplace was in the + centre, and the smoke found its way out by a hole in the roof. + </p> + <p> + The hunters were next sent out to procure deer-skins for garments, + moccasins, and other purposes. They made the mountains echo with their + rifles, and, in the course of two days’ hunting, killed twenty-eight + bighorns and black-tailed deer. + </p> + <p> + The party now reveled in abundance. After all that they had suffered from + hunger, cold, fatigue and watchfulness; after all their perils from + treacherous and savage men, they exulted in the snugness and security of + their isolated cabin, hidden, as they thought, even from the prying eyes + of Indian scouts, and stored with creature comforts; and they looked + forward to a winter of peace and quietness, of roasting, and boiling, and + broiling, and feasting upon venison, and mountain mutton, and bear’s meat, + and marrow bones, and buffalo humps, and other hunter’s dainties, and of + dozing and reposing round their fire, and gossiping over past dangers and + adventures, and telling long hunting stories, until spring should return; + when they would make canoes of buffalo skins and float themselves down the + river. + </p> + <p> + From such halcyon dreams, they were startled one morning, at daybreak, by + a savage yell. They started tip and seized their rifles. The yell was + repeated by two or three voices. Cautiously peeping out, they beheld, to + their dismay, several Indian warriors among the trees, all armed and + painted in warlike style; being evidently bent on some hostile purpose. + </p> + <p> + Miller changed countenance as he regarded them. “We are in trouble,” said + he, “these are some of the rascally Arapahays that robbed me last year.” + Not a word was uttered by the rest of the party, but they silently slung + their powder horns and ball pouches, and prepared for battle. M’Lellan, + who had taken his gun to pieces the evening before, put it together in all + haste. He proposed that they should break out the clay from between the + logs, so as to be able to fire upon the enemy. + </p> + <p> + “Not yet,” replied Stuart; “it will not do to show fear or distrust; we + must first hold a parley. Some one must go out and meet them as a friend.” + </p> + <p> + Who was to undertake the task! It was full of peril, as the envoy might be + shot down at the threshold. + </p> + <p> + “The leader of a party,” said Miller, “always takes the advance.” + </p> + <p> + “Good!” replied Stuart; “I am ready.” He immediately went forth; one of + the Canadians followed him; the rest of the party remained in the + garrison, to keep the savages in check. + </p> + <p> + Stuart advanced holding his rifle in one hand, and extending the other to + the savage that appeared to be the chief. The latter stepped forward and + took it; his men followed his example, and all shook hands with Stuart, in + token of friendship. They now explained their errand. They were a war + party of Arapahay braves. Their village lay on a stream several days’ + journey to the eastward. It had been attacked and ravaged during their + absence, by a band of Crows, who had carried off several of their women, + and most of their horses. They were in quest of vengeance. For sixteen + days they had been tracking the Crows about the mountains, but had not yet + come upon them. In the meantime, they had met with scarcely any game, and + were half famished. About two days previously, they had heard the report + of fire-arms among the mountains, and on searching in the direction of the + sound, had come to a place where a deer had been killed. They had + immediately put themselves upon the track of the hunters, and by following + it up, had arrived at the cabin. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart now invited the chief and another, who appeared to be his + lieutenant, into the hut, but made signs that no one else was to enter. + The rest halted at the door; others came straggling up, until the whole + party, to the number of twenty-three, were gathered before the hut. They + were armed with bows and arrows, tomahawks and scalping knives, and some + few with guns. All were painted and dressed for war, and had a wild and + fierce appearance. Mr. Miller recognized among them some of the very + fellows who had robbed him in the preceding year; and put his comrades + upon their guard. Every man stood ready to resist the first act of + hostility; the savages, however, conducted themselves peaceably, and + showed none of that swaggering arrogance which a war party is apt to + assume. + </p> + <p> + On entering the hut the chief and his lieutenant cast a wistful look at + the rafters, laden with venison and buffalo meat. Mr. Stuart made a merit + of necessity, and invited them to help themselves. They did not wait to be + pressed. The rafters were soon eased of their burden; venison and beef + were passed out to the crew before the door, and a scene of gormandizing + commenced, of which few can have an idea, who have not witnessed the + gastronomic powers of an Indian, after an interval of fasting. This was + kept up throughout the day; they paused now and then, it is true, for a + brief interval, but only to return to the charge with renewed ardor. The + chief and the lieutenant surpassed all the rest in the vigor and + perseverance of their attacks; as if from their station they were bound to + signalize themselves in all onslaughts. Mr. Stuart kept them well supplied + with choice bits, for it was his policy to overfeed them, and keep them + from leaving the hut, where they served as hostages for the good conduct + of their followers. Once, only, in the course of the day, did the chief + sally forth. Mr. Stuart and one of his men accompanied him, armed with + their rifles, but without betraying any distrust. The chieftain soon + returned, and renewed his attack upon the larder. In a word, he and his + worthy coadjutor, the lieutenant, ate until they were both stupefied. + </p> + <p> + Towards evening the Indians made their preparations for the night + according to the practice of war parties. Those outside of the hut threw + up two breastworks, into which they retired at a tolerably early hour, and + slept like overfed hounds. As to the chief and his lieutenant, they passed + the night in the hut, in the course of which, they, two or three times, + got up to eat. The travellers took turns, one at a time, to mount guard + until the morning. + </p> + <p> + Scarce had the day dawned, when the gormandizing was renewed by the whole + band, and carried on with surprising vigor until ten o’clock, when all + prepared to depart. They had six days’ journey yet to make, they said, + before they should come up with the Crows, who, they understood, were + encamped on a river to the northward. Their way lay through a hungry + country, where there was no game; they would, moreover, have but little + time to hunt; they, therefore, craved a small supply of provisions for + their journey. Mr. Stuart again invited them to help themselves. They did + so with keen forethought, loading themselves with the choicest parts of + the meat, and leaving the late plenteous larder far gone in a consumption. + Their next request was for a supply of ammunition, having guns, but no + powder and ball. They promised to pay magnificently out of the spoils of + their foray. “We are poor now,” said they, “and are obliged to go on foot, + but we shall soon come back laden with booty, and all mounted on + horseback, with scalps hanging at our bridles. We will then give each of + you a horse to keep you from being tired on your journey.” + </p> + <p> + “Well,” said Mr. Stuart, “when you bring the horses, you shall have the + ammunition, but not before.” The Indians saw by his determined tone, that + all further entreaty would be unavailing, so they desisted, with a + good-humored laugh, and went off exceedingly well freighted, both within + and without, promising to be back again in the course of a fortnight. + </p> + <p> + No sooner were they out of hearing, than the luckless travellers held + another council. The security of their cabin was at an end and with it all + their dreams of a quiet and cozy winter. They were between two fires. On + one side were their old enemies, the Crows; on the other side, the + Arapahays, no less dangerous freebooters. As to the moderation of this war + party, they considered it assumed, to put them off their guard against + some more favorable opportunity for a surprisal. It was determined, + therefore, not to await their return, but to abandon, with all speed, this + dangerous neighborhood. From the accounts of their recent visitors, they + were led to believe, though erroneously, that they were upon the Quicourt, + or Rapid River. They proposed now to keep along it to its confluence with + the Missouri; but, should they be prevented by the rigors of the season + from proceeding so far, at least to reach a part of the river where they + might be able to construct canoes of greater strength and durability than + those of buffalo skins. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, on the 13th of December, they bade adieu, with many a regret, + to their comfortable quarters where for five weeks they had been indulging + the sweets of repose, of plenty, and of fancied security. They were still + accompanied by their veteran pack-horse, which the Arapahays had omitted + to steal, either because they intended to steal him on their return, or + because they thought him not worth stealing. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0051" id="link2HCH0051"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER L. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Rough Wintry Travelling—Hills and Plains.—Snow and Ice.— + Disappearance of Game.—A Vast Dreary Plain.—A. Second Halt + for the Winter.—Another Wigwam.—New Year’s Feast.—Buffalo + Humps, Tongues, and Marrow-Bones.—Return of Spring.—Launch + of Canoes.—Bad Navigation.—Pedestrian March.—Vast + Prairies.—Deserted Camps.—Pawnee Squaws.—An Otto + Indian.—News of War.—Voyage Down the Platte and the + Missouri.—Reception at Fort Osage.—Arrival at St. Louis. +</pre> + <p> + THE interval of comfort and repose which the party had enjoyed in their + wigwam, rendered the renewal of their fatigues intolerable for the first + two or three days. The snow lay deep, and was slightly frozen on the + surface, but not sufficiently to bear their weight. Their feet became sore + by breaking through the crust, and their limbs weary by floundering on + without firm foothold. So exhausted and dispirited were they, that they + began to think it would be better to remain and run the risk of being + killed by the Indians, than to drag on thus painfully, with the + probability of perishing by the way. Their miserable horse fared no better + than themselves, having for the first day or two no other fodder than the + ends of willow twigs, and the bark of the cotton-wood tree. + </p> + <p> + They all, however, appeared to gain patience and hardihood as they + proceeded, and for fourteen days kept steadily on, making a distance of + about three hundred and thirty miles. For some days, the range of + mountains which had been near to their wigwam kept parallel to the river + at no great distance, but at length subsided into hills. Sometimes they + found the river bordered with alluvial bottoms, and groves with + cotton-wood and willows; sometimes the adjacent country was naked and + barren. In one place it ran for a considerable distance between rocky + hills and promontories covered with cedar and pitch pines, and peopled + with the bighorn and the mountain deer; at other places it wandered + through prairies well stocked with buffaloes and antelopes. As they + descended the course of the river, they began to perceive the ash and + white oak here and there among the cotton-wood and willow; and at length + caught a sight of some wild horses on the distant prairies. + </p> + <p> + The weather was various; at one time the snow lay deep; then they had a + genial day or two, with the mildness and serenity of autumn; then, again, + the frost was so severe that the river was sufficiently frozen to bear + them upon the ice. + </p> + <p> + During the last three days of their fortnight’s travel, however, the face + of the country changed. The timber gradually diminished, until they could + scarcely find fuel sufficient for culinary purposes. The game grew more + and more scanty, and, finally, none were to be seen but a few miserable + broken-down buffalo bulls, not worth killing. The snow lay fifteen inches + deep, and made the travelling grievously painful and toilsome. At length + they came to an immense plain, where no vestige of timber was to be seen; + nor a single quadruped to enliven the desolate landscape. Here, then, + their hearts failed them, and they held another consultation. The width of + the river, which was upwards of a mile, its extreme shallowness, the + frequency of quicksands, and various other characteristics, had at length + made them sensible of their errors with respect to it, and they now came + to the correct conclusion, that they were on the banks of the Platte or + Shallow River. What were they to do? Pursue its course to the Missouri? To + go on at this season of the year seemed dangerous in the extreme. There + was no prospect of obtaining either food or firing. The country was + destitute of trees, and though there might be drift-wood along the river, + it lay too deep beneath the snow for them to find it. + </p> + <p> + The weather was threatening a change, and a snowstorm on these boundless + wastes might prove as fatal as a whirlwind of sand on an Arabian desert. + After much dreary deliberation, it was at length determined to retrace + their three last days’ journey of seventy-seven miles, to a place which + they had remarked where there was a sheltering growth of forest trees, and + a country abundant in game. Here they would once more set up their winter + quarters, and await the opening of the navigation to launch themselves in + canoes. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, on the 27th of December, they faced about, retraced their + steps, and on the 30th, regained the part of the river in question. Here + the alluvial bottom was from one to two miles wide, and thickly covered + with a forest of cotton-wood trees; while herds of buffalo were scattered + about the neighboring prairie, several of which soon fell beneath their + rifles. + </p> + <p> + They encamped on the margin of the river, in a grove where there were + trees large enough for canoes. Here they put up a shed for immediate + shelter, and immediately proceeded to erect a hut. New Year’s day dawned + when, as yet, but one wall of their cabin was completed; the genial and + jovial day, however, was not permitted to pass uncelebrated, even by this + weatherbeaten crew of wanderers. All work was suspended, except that of + roasting and boiling. The choicest of the buffalo meat, with tongues, and + humps, and marrow-bones, were devoured in quantities that would astonish + any one that has not lived among hunters or Indians; and as an extra + regale, having no tobacco left, they cut up an old tobacco pouch, still + redolent with the potent herb, and smoked it in honor of the day. Thus for + a time, in present revelry, however uncouth, they forgot all past troubles + and all anxieties about the future, and their forlorn wigwam echoed to the + sound of gayety. + </p> + <p> + The next day they resumed their labors, and by the 6th of the month it was + complete. They soon killed abundance of buffalo, and again laid in a stock + of winter provisions. The party were more fortunate in this, their second + cantonment. The winter passed away without any Indian visitors, and the + game continued to be plenty in the neighborhood. They felled two large + trees, and shaped them into canoes; and, as the spring opened, and a thaw + of several days’ continuance melted the ice in the river, they made every + preparation for embarking. On the 8th of March they launched forth in + their canoes, but soon found that the river had not depth sufficient even + for such slender barks. It expanded into a wide but extremely shallow + stream, with many sand-bars, and occasionally various channels. They got + one of their canoes a few miles down it, with extreme difficulty, + sometimes wading and dragging it over the shoals; at length they had to + abandon the attempt, and to resume their journey on foot, aided by their + faithful old pack-horse, who had recruited strength during the repose of + the winter. + </p> + <p> + The weather delayed them for a few days, having suddenly become more + rigorous than it had been at any time during the winter; but on the 20th + of March they were again on their journey. + </p> + <p> + In two days they arrived at the vast naked prairie, the wintry aspect of + which had caused them, in December, to pause and turn back. It was now + clothed in the early verdure of spring, and plentifully stocked with game. + Still, when obliged to bivouac on its bare surface, without any shelter, + and by a scanty fire of dry buffalo dung, they found the night blasts + piercing cold. On one occasion, a herd of buffalo straying near their + evening camp, they killed three of them merely for their hides, wherewith + to make a shelter for the night. + </p> + <p> + They continued on for upwards of a hundred miles; with vast prairies + extending before them as they advanced; sometimes diversified by + undulating hills, but destitute of trees. In one place they saw a gang of + sixty-five wild horses, but as to the buffaloes, they seemed absolutely to + cover the country. Wild geese abounded, and they passed extensive swamps + that were alive with innumerable flocks of water-fowl, among which were a + few swans, but an endless variety of ducks. + </p> + <p> + The river continued a winding course to the east-north-east, nearly a mile + in width, but too shallow to float even an empty canoe. The country spread + out into a vast level plain, bounded by the horizon alone, excepting to + the north, where a line of hills seemed like a long promontory stretching + into the bosom of the ocean. The dreary sameness of the prairie wastes + began to grow extremely irksome. The travellers longed for the sight of a + forest, or grove, or single tree, to break the level uniformity, and began + to notice every object that gave reason to hope they were drawing towards + the end of this weary wilderness. Thus the occurrence of a particular kind + of grass was hailed as a proof that they could not be far from the bottoms + of the Missouri; and they were rejoiced at putting up several prairie + hens, a kind of grouse seldom found far in the interior. In picking up + driftwood for fuel, also, they found on some pieces the mark of an axe, + which caused much speculation as to the time when and the persons by whom + the trees had been felled. Thus they went on, like sailors at sea, who + perceive in every floating weed and wandering bird, harbingers of the + wished-for land. + </p> + <p> + By the close of the month the weather became very mild, and, heavily + burdened as they were, they found the noontide temperature uncomfortably + warm. On the 30th, they came to three deserted hunting camps, either of + Pawnees or Ottoes, about which were buffalo skulls in all directions; and + the frames on which the hides had been stretched and cured. They had + apparently been occupied the preceding autumn. + </p> + <p> + For several days they kept patiently on, watching every sign that might + give them an idea as to where they were, and how near to the banks of the + Missouri. + </p> + <p> + Though there were numerous traces of hunting parties and encampments, they + were not of recent date. The country seemed deserted. The only human + beings they met with were three Pawnee squaws, in a hut in the midst of a + deserted camp. Their people had all gone to the south, in pursuit of the + buffalo, and had left these poor women behind, being too sick and infirm + to travel. + </p> + <p> + It is a common practice with the Pawnees, and probably with other roving + tribes, when departing on a distant expedition, which will not admit of + incumbrance or delay, to leave their aged and infirm with a supply of + provisions sufficient for a temporary subsistence. When this is exhausted, + they must perish; though sometimes their sufferings are abridged by + hostile prowlers who may visit the deserted camp. + </p> + <p> + The poor squaws in question expected some such fate at the hands of the + white strangers, and though the latter accosted them in the kindest + manner, and made them presents of dried buffalo meat, it was impossible to + soothe their alarm, or get any information from them. + </p> + <p> + The first landmark by which the travellers were enabled to conjecture + their position with any degree of confidence, was an island about seventy + miles in length, which they presumed to be Grand Isle. If so, they were + within one hundred and forty miles of the Missouri. They kept on, + therefore, With renewed spirit, and at the end of three days met with an + Otto Indian, by whom they were confirmed in their conjecture. They learnt + at the same time another piece of information, of an uncomfortable nature. + According to his account, there was war between the United States and + England, and in fact it had existed for a whole year, during which time + they had been beyond the reach of all knowledge of the affairs of the + civilized world. + </p> + <p> + The Otto conducted the travellers to his village, situated a short + distance from the banks of the Platte. Here they were delighted to meet + with two white men, Messrs. Dornin and Roi, Indian traders recently from + St. Louis. Of these they had a thousand inquiries to make concerning all + affairs, foreign and domestic, during their year of sepulture in the + wilderness; and especially about the events of the existing war. + </p> + <p> + They now prepared to abandon their weary travel by land, and to embark + upon the water. A bargain was made with Mr. Dornin, who engaged to furnish + them with a canoe and provisions for the voyage, in exchange for their + venerable and well-tried fellow traveller, the old Snake horse. + </p> + <p> + Accordingly, in a couple of days, the Indians employed by that gentleman + constructed for them a canoe twenty feet long, four feet wide, and + eighteen inches deep. The frame was of poles and willow twigs, on which + were stretched five elk and buffalo hides, sewed together with sinews, and + the seams payed with unctuous mud. In this they embarked at an early hour + on the 16th of April, and drifted down ten miles with the stream, when the + wind being high they encamped, and set to work to make oars, which they + had not been able to procure at the Indian village. + </p> + <p> + Once more afloat, they went merrily down the stream, and after making + thirty-five miles, emerged into the broad turbid current of the Missouri. + Here they were borne along briskly by the rapid stream; though, by the + time their fragile bark had floated a couple of hundred miles, its frame + began to show the effects of the voyage. Luckily they came to the deserted + wintering place of some hunting party, where they found two old wooden + canoes. Taking possession of the largest, they again committed themselves + to the current, and after dropping down fifty-five miles further, arrived + safely at Fort Osage. + </p> + <p> + Here they found Lieutenant Brownson still in command; the officer who had + given the expedition a hospitable reception on its way up the river, + eighteen months previously. He received this remnant of the party with a + cordial welcome, and endeavored in every way to promote their comfort and + enjoyment during their sojourn at the fort. The greatest luxury they met + with on their return to the abode of civilized man, was bread, not having + tasted any for nearly a year. + </p> + <p> + Their stay at Fort Osage was but short. On re-embarking they were + furnished with an ample supply of provisions by the kindness of Lieutenant + Brownson, and performed the rest of their voyage without adverse + circumstance. On the 30th of April they arrived in perfect health and fine + spirits at St. Louis, having been ten months in performing this perilous + expedition from Astoria. Their return caused quite a sensation at the + place, bringing the first intelligence of the fortune of Mr. Hunt and his + party in their adventurous route across the Rocky Mountains, and of the + new establishment on the shores of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0052" id="link2HCH0052"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Agreement Between Mr. Astor and the Russian Fur Company—War + Between the United States and Great Britain.—Instructions + to Captain Sowle of the Beaver—Fitting Out of the Lark.— + News of the Arrival of Mr. Stuart. +</pre> + <p> + IT is now necessary, in linking together the parts of this excursive + narrative, that we notice the proceedings of Mr. Astor in support of his + great undertaking. His project with respect to the Russian establishments + along the northwest coast had been diligently prosecuted. The agent sent + by him to St. Petersburg, to negotiate in his name as president of the + American Fur Company, had, under sanction of the Russian government, made + a provisional agreement with the Russian company. + </p> + <p> + By this agreement, which was ratified by Mr. Astor in 1813, the two + companies bound themselves not to interfere with each other’s trading and + hunting grounds, nor to furnish arms and ammunition to the Indians. They + were to act in concert, also, against all interlopers, and to succor each + other in case of danger. The American company was to have the exclusive + right of supplying the Russian posts with goods and necessaries, receiving + peltries in payment at stated prices. They were also, if so requested by + the Russian governor, to convey the furs of the Russian company to Canton, + sell them on commission, and bring back the proceeds, at such freight as + might be agreed on at the time. This agreement was to continue in + operation four years, and to be renewable for a similar term, unless some + unforeseen contingency should render a modification necessary. + </p> + <p> + It was calculated to be of great service to the infant establishment at + Astoria; dispelling the fears of hostile rivalry on the part of the + foreign companies in its neighborhood, and giving a formidable blow to the + irregular trade along the coast. It was also the intention of Mr. Astor to + have coasting vessels of his own, at Astoria, of small tonnage and draft + of water, fitted for coasting service. These, having a place of shelter + and deposit, could ply about the coast in short voyages, in favorable + weather, and would have vast advantage over chance ships, which must make + long voyages, maintain numerous crews, and could only approach the coast + at certain seasons of the year. He hoped, therefore, gradually to make + Astoria the great emporium of the American fur trade in the Pacific, and + the nucleus of a powerful American state. Unfortunately for these sanguine + anticipations, before Mr. Astor had ratified the agreement, as above + stated, war broke out between the United States and Great Britain. He + perceived at once the peril of the case. The harbor of New York would + doubtless be blockaded, and the departure of the annual supply ship in the + autumn prevented; or, if she should succeed in getting out to sea, she + might be captured on her voyage. + </p> + <p> + In this emergency, he wrote to Captain Sowle, commander of the Beaver. The + letter, which was addressed to him at Canton, directed him to proceed to + the factory at the mouth of the Columbia, with such articles as the + establishment might need; and to remain there, subject to the orders of + Mr. Hunt, should that gentleman be in command there. + </p> + <p> + The war continued. No tidings had yet been received from Astoria; the + despatches having been delayed by the misadventure of Mr. Reed at the + falls of the Columbia, and the unhorsing of Mr. Stuart by the Crows among + the mountains. A painful uncertainty, also, prevailed about Mr. Hunt and + his party. Nothing had been heard of them since their departure from the + Arickara village; Lisa, who parted from them there, had predicted their + destruction; and some of the traders of the Northwest Company had actually + spread a rumor of their having been cut off by the Indians. + </p> + <p> + It was a hard trial of the courage and means of an individual to have to + fit out another costly expedition, where so much had already been + expended, so much uncertainty prevailed, and where the risk of loss was so + greatly enhanced, that no insurance could be effected. + </p> + <p> + In spite of all these discouragements, Mr. Astor determined to send + another ship to the relief of the settlement. He selected for this purpose + a vessel called the Lark, remarkable for her fast sailing. The disordered + state of the times, however, caused such a delay, that February arrived, + while the vessel was yet lingering in port. + </p> + <p> + At this juncture, Mr. Astor learnt that the Northwest Company were + preparing to send out an armed ship of twenty guns, called the Isaac Todd, + to form an establishment at the mouth of the Columbia. These tidings gave + him great uneasiness. A considerable proportion of the persons in his + employ were Scotchmen and Canadians, and several of them had been in the + service of the Northwest Company. Should Mr. Hunt have failed to arrive at + Astoria, the whole establishment would be under the control of Mr. + M’Dougal, of whose fidelity he had received very disparaging accounts from + Captain Thorn. The British government, also, might deem it worth while to + send a force against the establishment, having been urged to do so some + time previously by the Northwest Company. + </p> + <p> + Under all these circumstances, Mr. Astor wrote to Mr. Monroe, then + secretary of state, requesting protection from the government of the + United States. He represented the importance of his settlement, in a + commercial point of view, and the shelter it might afford to the American + vessels in those seas. All he asked was that the American government would + throw forty or fifty men into the fort at his establishment, which would + be sufficient for its defense until he could send reinforcements over + land. + </p> + <p> + He waited in vain for a reply to this letter, the government, no doubt, + being engrossed at the time by an overwhelming crowd of affairs. The month + of March arrived, and the Lark was ordered by Mr. Astor to put to sea. The + officer who was to command her shrunk from his engagement, and in the + exigency of the moment, she was given in charge to Mr. Northrup, the mate. + Mr. Nicholas G. Ogden, a gentleman on whose talents and integrity the + highest reliance could be placed, sailed as supercargo. The Lark put to + sea in the beginning of March, 1813. + </p> + <p> + By this opportunity, Mr. Astor wrote to Mr. Hunt, as head of the + establishment at the mouth of the Columbia, for he would not allow himself + to doubt of his welfare. “I always think you are well,” said he, “and that + I shall see you again, which Heaven, I hope, will grant.” + </p> + <p> + He warned him to be on his guard against any attempts to surprise the + post; suggesting the probability of armed hostility on the part of the + Northwest Company, and expressing his indignation at the ungrateful + returns made by that association for his frank and open conduct, and + advantageous overtures. “Were I on the spot,” said he, “and had the + management of affairs, I would defy them all; but, as it is, everything + depends upon you and your friends about you. Our enterprise is grand, and + deserves success, and I hope in God it will meet it. If my object was + merely gain of money, I should say, think whether it is best to save what + we can, and abandon the place; but the very idea is like a dagger to my + heart.” This extract is sufficient to show the spirit and the views which + actuated Mr. Astor in this great undertaking. + </p> + <p> + Week after week and month after month elapsed, without anything to dispel + the painful incertitude that hung over every part of this enterprise. + Though a man of resolute spirit, and not easily cast down, the dangers + impending over this darling scheme of his ambition, had a gradual effect + upon the spirits of Mr. Astor. He was sitting one gloomy evening by his + window, revolving over the loss of the Tonquin and the fate of her + unfortunate crew, and fearing that some equally tragical calamity might + have befallen the adventurers across the mountains, when the evening + newspaper was brought to him. The first paragraph that caught his eye, + announced the arrival of Mr. Stuart and his party at St. Louis, with + intelligence that Mr. Hunt and his companions had effected their perilous + expedition to the mouth of the Columbia. This was a gleam of sunshine that + for a time dispelled every cloud, and he now looked forward with sanguine + hope to the accomplishment of all his plans. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0053" id="link2HCH0053"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Banks of the Wallah-Wallah.—Departure of David Stuart for + the Oakinagan.—Mr. Clarke’s Route Up Lewis River.— + Chipunnish, or Pierced-Nose Indians—Their Character, + Appearance, and Habits.-Thievish Habits.—Laying Up of the + Boats.—Post at Pointed Heart and Spokan Rivers.—M’Kenzie, + His Route Up the Camoenum.-Bands of Travelling Indians.— + Expedition of Reed to the Caches.—Adventures of Wandering + Voyageurs and Trappers. +</pre> + <p> + THE course of our narrative now takes us back to the regions beyond the + mountains, to dispose of the parties that set out from Astoria, in company + with Mr. Robert Stuart, and whom he left on the banks of the + Wallah-Wallah. Those parties likewise separated from each other shortly + after his departure, proceeding to their respective destinations, but + agreeing to meet at the mouth of the Wallah-Wallah about the beginning of + June in the following year, with such peltries as they should have + collected in the winter, so as to convoy each other through the dangerous + passes of the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + Mr. David Stuart, one of the partners, proceeded with his men to the post + already established by him at the mouth of the Oakinagan; having furnished + this with goods and ammunition, he proceeded three hundred miles up that + river, where he established another post in a good trading neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Clarke, another partner, conducted his little band up Lewis River to + the mouth of a small stream coming in from the north, to which the + Canadians gave the name of the Pavion. Here he found a village or + encampment of forty huts or tents, covered with mats, and inhabited by Nez + Perces, or Pierced-nose Indians, as they are called by the traders; but + Chipunnish, as they are called by themselves. They are a hardy, laborious, + and somewhat knavish race, who lead a precarious life, fishing and digging + roots during the summer and autumn, hunting the deer on snow-shoes during + the winter, and traversing the Rocky Mountains in the spring, to trade for + buffalo skins with the hunting tribes of the Missouri. In these migrations + they are liable to be waylaid and attacked by the Blackfeet, and other + warlike and predatory tribes, and driven back across the mountains with + the loss of their horses, and of many of their comrades. + </p> + <p> + A life of this unsettled and precarious kind is apt to render man selfish, + and such Mr. Clarke found the inhabitants of this village, who were + deficient in the usual hospitality of Indians; parting with everything + with extreme reluctance, and showing no sensibility to any act of + kindness. At the time of his arrival, they were all occupied in catching + and curing salmon. The men were stout, robust, active, and good looking, + and the women handsomer than those of the tribes nearer to the coast. + </p> + <p> + It was the plan of Mr. Clarke to lay up his boats here, and proceed by + land to his place of destination, which was among the Spokan tribe of + Indians, about a hundred and fifty miles distant. He accordingly + endeavored to purchase horses for the journey, but in this he had to + contend with the sordid disposition of these people. They asked high + prices for their horses, and were so difficult to deal with, that Mr. + Clarke was detained seven days among them before he could procure a + sufficient number. During that time he was annoyed by repeated pilferings, + for which he could get no redress. The chief promised to recover the + stolen articles; but failed to do so, alleging that the thieves belonged + to a distant tribe, and had made off with their booty. With this excuse + Mr. Clarke was fain to content himself, though he laid up in his heart a + bitter grudge against the whole Pierced-nose race, which it will be found + he took occasion subsequently to gratify in a signal manner. + </p> + <p> + Having made arrangements for his departure, Mr. Clarke laid up his barge + and canoes in a sheltered place, on the banks of a small bay, overgrown + with shrubs and willows, confiding them to the care of the Nez Perce + chief, who, on being promised an ample compensation, engaged to have a + guardian eye upon them; then mounting his steed, and putting himself at + the head of his little caravan, he shook the dust off his feet as he + turned his back upon this village of rogues and hard dealers. We shall not + follow him minutely in his journey; which lay at times over steep and + rocky hills, and among crags and precipices; at other times over vast + naked and sunburnt plains, abounding with rattlesnakes, in traversing + which, both men and horses suffered intolerably from heat and thirst. The + place on which he fixed for a trading post, was a fine point of land, at + the junction of the Pointed Heart and Spokan Rivers. His establishment was + intended to compete with a trading post of the Northwest Company, situated + at no great distance, and to rival it in the trade with the Spokan + Indians; as well as with the Cootonais and Flatheads. In this neighborhood + we shall leave him for the present. + </p> + <p> + Mr. M’Kenzie, who conducted the third party from the Wallah-Wallah, + navigated for several days up the south branch of the Columbia, named the + Camoenum by the natives, but commonly called Lewis River, in honor of the + first explorer. Wandering bands of various tribes were seen along this + river, travelling in various directions; for the Indians generally are + restless, roving beings, continually intent on enterprises of war, + traffic, and hunting. Some of these people were driving large gangs of + horses, as if to a distant market. Having arrived at the mouth of the + Shahaptan, he ascended some distance up that river, and established his + trading post upon its banks. This appeared to be a great thoroughfare for + the tribes from the neighborhood of the Falls of the Columbia, in their + expeditions to make war upon the tribes of the Rocky Mountains; to hunt + buffalo on the plains beyond, or to traffic for roots and buffalo robes. + It was the season of migration, and the Indians from various distant parts + were passing and repassing in great numbers. + </p> + <p> + Mr. M’Kenzie now detached a small band, under the conduct of Mr. John + Reed, to visit the caches made by Mr. Hunt at the Caldron Linn, and to + bring the contents to his post; as he depended, in some measure, on them + for his supplies of goods and ammunition. They had not been gone a week, + when two Indians arrived of the Pallatapalla tribe, who live upon a river + of the same name. These communicated the unwelcome intelligence that the + caches had been robbed. They said that some of their tribe had, in the + course of the preceding spring, been across the mountains, which separated + them from Snake River, and had traded horses with the Snakes in exchange + for blankets, robes and goods of various descriptions. These articles the + Snakes had procured from caches to which they were guided by some white + men who resided among them, and who afterwards accompanied them across the + Rocky Mountains. This intelligence was extremely perplexing to Mr. + M’Kenzie, but the truth of part of it was confirmed by the two Indians, + who brought them an English saddle and bridle, which was recognized as + having belonged to Mr. Crooks. The perfidy of the white men who revealed + the secret of the caches, was, however, perfectly inexplicable. We shall + presently account for it in narrating the expedition of Mr. Reed. + </p> + <p> + That worthy Hibernian proceeded on his mission with his usual alacrity. + His forlorn travels of the preceding winter had made him acquainted with + the topography of the country, and he reached Snake River without any + material difficulty. Here, in an encampment of the natives, he met with + six white men, wanderers from the main expedition of Mr. Hunt, who, after + having had their respective shares of adventures and mishaps, had + fortunately come together at this place. Three of these men were Turcotte, + La Chapelle, and Francis Landry; the three Canadian voyageurs who, it may + be recollected, had left Mr. Crooks in February, in the neighborhood of + Snake River, being dismayed by the increasing hardships of the journey, + and fearful of perishing of hunger. They had returned to a Snake + encampment, where they passed the residue of the winter. + </p> + <p> + Early in the spring, being utterly destitute, and in great extremity, and + having worn out the hospitality of the Snakes, they determined to avail + themselves of the buried treasures within their knowledge. They + accordingly informed the Snake chieftains that they knew where a great + quantity of goods had been left in caches, enough to enrich the whole + tribe; and offered to conduct them to the place, on condition of being + rewarded with horses and provisions. The chieftains pledged their faith + and honor as great men and Snakes, and the three Canadians conducted them + to the place of deposit at the Caldron Linn. This is the way that the + savages got knowledge of the caches, and not by following the tracks of + wolves, as Mr. Stuart had supposed. Never did money diggers turn up a + miser’s hoard with more eager delight, than did the savages lay open the + treasures of the caches. Blankets and robes, brass trinkets and blue beads + were drawn forth with chuckling exultation, and long strips of scarlet + cloth produced yells of ecstasy. + </p> + <p> + The rifling of the caches effected a change in the fortunes and deportment + of the whole party. The Snakes were better clad and equipped than ever + were Snakes before, and the three Canadians, suddenly finding themselves + with horse to ride and weapon to wear, were like beggars on horseback, + ready to ride on any wild scamper. An opportunity soon presented. The + Snakes determined on a hunting match on the buffalo prairies, to lay in a + supply of beef, that they might live in plenty, as became men of their + improved condition. The three newly mounted cavaliers, must fain accompany + them. They all traversed the Rocky Mountains in safety, descended to the + head waters of the Missouri, and made great havoc among the buffaloes. + </p> + <p> + Their hunting camp was full of meat; they were gorging themselves, like + true Indians, with present plenty, and drying and jerking great quantities + for a winter’s supply. In the midst of their revelry and good cheer, the + camp was surprised by the Blackfeet. Several of the Snakes were slain on + the spot; the residue, with their three Canadian allies, fled to the + mountains, stripped of horses, buffalo meat, everything; and made their + way back to the old encampment on Snake River, poorer than ever, but + esteeming themselves fortunate in having escaped with their lives. They + had not been long there when the Canadians were cheered by the sight of a + companion in misfortune, Dubreull, the poor voyageur who had left Mr. + Crooks in March, being too much exhausted to keep on with him. Not long + afterwards, three other straggling members of the main expedition made + their appearance. These were Carson, St. Michael, and Pierre Delaunay, + three of the trappers who, in company with Pierre Detaye, had been left + among the mountains by Mr. Hunt, to trap beaver, in the preceding month of + September. They had departed from the main body well armed and provided, + with horses to ride, and horses to carry the peltries they were to + collect. They came wandering into the Snake camp as ragged and destitute + as their predecessors. It appears that they had finished their trapping, + and were making their way in the spring to the Missouri, when they were + met and attacked by a powerful band of the all-pervading Crows. They made + a desperate resistance, and killed seven of the savages, but were + overpowered by numbers. Pierre Detaye was slain, the rest were robbed of + horses and effects, and obliged to turn back, when they fell in with their + old companions as already mentioned. + </p> + <p> + We should observe, that at the heels of Pierre Delaunay came draggling an + Indian wife, whom he had picked up in his wanderings; having grown weary + of celibacy among the savages. + </p> + <p> + The whole seven of this forlorn fraternity of adventurers, thus + accidentally congregated on the banks of Snake River, were making + arrangements once more to cross the mountains, when some Indian scouts + brought word of the approach of the little band headed by John Reed. + </p> + <p> + The latter, having heard the several stories of these wanderers, took them + all into his party, and set out for the Caldron Linn, to clear out two or + three of the caches which had not been revealed to the Indians. + </p> + <p> + At that place he met with Robinson, the Kentucky veteran, who, with his + two comrades, Rezner and Hoback, had remained there when Mr. Stuart went + on. This adventurous trio had been trapping higher up the river, but + Robinson had come down in a canoe, to await the expected arrival of the + party, and obtain horses and equipments. He told Reed the story of the + robbery of his party by the Arapahays, but it differed, in some + particulars, from the account given by him to Mr. Stuart. In that, he had + represented Cass as having shamefully deserted his companions in their + extremity, carrying off with him a horse; in the one now given, he spoke + of him as having been killed in the affray with the Arapahays. This + discrepancy, of which, of course, Reed could have had no knowledge at the + time, concurred with other circumstances, to occasion afterwards some + mysterious speculations and dark surmises as to the real fate of Cass; but + as no substantial grounds were ever adduced for them, we forbear to throw + any deeper shades into this story of sufferings in the wilderness. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Reed, having gathered the remainder of the goods from the caches, put + himself at the head of his party, now augmented by the seven men thus + casually picked up, and the squaw of Pierre Delaunay, and made his way + successfully to M’Kenzie’s Post, on the waters of the Shahaptan. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0054" id="link2HCH0054"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Departure of Mr. Hunt in the Beaver—Precautions at the + Factory.-Detachment to the Wollamut.—Gloomy Apprehensions.— + Arrival of M’Kenzie.—Affairs at the Shahaptan.—News of + War.—Dismay of M’Dougal.-Determination to Abandon Astoria.— + Departure of M’Kenzie for the Interior.—Adventure at the + Rapids.—Visit to the Ruffians of Wish-ram.—A Perilous + Situation.—Meeting With M’Tavish and His Party.—Arrival at + the Shahaptan.—Plundered Caches.-Determination of the + Wintering Partners Not to Leave the Country.—Arrival of + Clarke Among the Nez Perces.—The Affair of the Silver + Goblet.—Hanging of An Indian.—Arrival of the Wintering + Partners at Astoria. +</pre> + <p> + AFTER the departure of the different detachments, or brigades, as they are + called by the fur traders, the Beaver prepared for her voyage along the + coast, and her visit to the Russian establishment, at New Archangel, where + she was to carry supplies. It had been determined in the council of + partners at Astoria, that Mr. Hunt should embark in this vessel, for the + purpose of acquainting himself with the coasting trade, and of making + arrangements with the commander of the Russian post, and that he should be + re-landed in October, at Astoria, by the Beaver, on her way to the + Sandwich Islands and Canton. + </p> + <p> + The Beaver put to sea in the month of August. Her departure and that of + the various brigades, left the fortress of Astoria but slightly + garrisoned. This was soon perceived by some of the Indian tribes, and the + consequence was increased insolence of deportment, and a disposition to + hostility. It was now the fishing season, when the tribes from the + northern coast drew into the neighborhood of the Columbia. These were + warlike and perfidious in their dispositions; and noted for their attempts + to surprise trading ships. Among them were numbers of the Neweetees, the + ferocious tribe that massacred the crew of the Tonquin. + </p> + <p> + Great precautions, therefore, were taken at the factory, to guard against + surprise while these dangerous intruders were in the vicinity. Galleries + were constructed inside of the palisades; the bastions were heightened, + and sentinels were posted day and night. Fortunately, the Chinooks and + other tribes resident in the vicinity manifested the most pacific + disposition. Old Comcomly, who held sway over them, was a shrewd + calculator. He was aware of the advantages of having the whites as + neighbors and allies, and of the consequence derived to himself and his + people from acting as intermediate traders between them and the distant + tribes. He had, therefore, by this time, become a firm friend of the + Astorians, and formed a kind of barrier between them and the hostile + intruders from the north. + </p> + <p> + The summer of 1812 passed away without any of the hostilities that had + been apprehended; the Neweetees, and other dangerous visitors to the + neighborhood, finished their fishing and returned home, and the inmates of + the factory once more felt secure from attack. + </p> + <p> + It now became necessary to guard against other evils. The season of + scarcity arrived, which commences in October, and lasts until the end of + January. To provide for the support of the garrison, the shallop was + employed to forage about the shores of the river. A number of the men, + also, under the command of some of the clerks, were sent to quarter + themselves on the banks of the Wollamut (the Multnomah of Lewis and + Clarke), a fine river which disembogues itself into the Columbia, about + sixty miles above Astoria. The country bordering on the river is finely + diversified with prairies and hills, and forests of oak, ash, maple, and + cedar. It abounded, at that time, with elk and deer, and the streams were + well stocked with beaver. Here the party, after supplying their own wants, + were enabled to pack up quantities of dried meat, and send it by canoes to + Astoria. + </p> + <p> + The month of October elapsed without the return of the Beaver. November, + December, January, passed away, and still nothing was seen or heard of + her. Gloomy apprehensions now began to be entertained: she might have been + wrecked in the course of her coasting voyage, or surprised, like the + Tonquin, by some of the treacherous tribes of the north. + </p> + <p> + No one indulged more in these apprehensions than M’Dougal, who had now the + charge of the establishment. He no longer evinced the bustling confidence + and buoyancy which once characterized him. Command seemed to have lost its + charms for him, or rather, he gave way to the most abject despondency, + decrying the whole enterprise, magnifying every untoward circumstance, and + foreboding nothing but evil. + </p> + <p> + While in this moody state, he was surprised, on the 16th of January, by + the sudden appearance of M’Kenzie, wayworn and weather-beaten by a long + wintry journey from his post on the Shahaptan, and with a face the very + frontispiece for a volume of misfortune. M’Kenzie had been heartily + disgusted and disappointed at his post. It was in the midst of the + Tushepaws, a powerful and warlike nation, divided into many tribes, under + different chiefs, who possessed innumerable horses, but, not having turned + their attention to beaver trapping, had no furs to offer. According to + M’Kenzie, they were but a “rascally tribe;” from which we may infer that + they were prone to consult their own interests more than comported with + the interests of a greedy Indian trader. + </p> + <p> + Game being scarce, he was obliged to rely, for the most part, on + horse-flesh for subsistence, and the Indians discovering his necessities, + adopted a policy usual in civilized trade, and raised the price of horses + to an exorbitant rate, knowing that he and his men must eat or die. In + this way, the goods he had brought to trade for beaver skins, were likely + to be bartered for horseflesh, and all the proceeds devoured upon the + spot. + </p> + <p> + He had despatched trappers in various directions, but the country around + did not offer more beaver than his own station. In this emergency he began + to think of abandoning his unprofitable post, sending his goods to the + posts of Clarke and David Stuart, who could make a better use of them, as + they were in a good beaver country, and returning with his party to + Astoria, to seek some better destination. With this view he repaired to + the post of Mr. Clarke, to hold a consultation. While the two partners + were in conference in Mr. Clarke’s wigwam, an unexpected visitor came + bustling in upon them. + </p> + <p> + This was Mr. John George M’Tavish, a partner of the Northwest Company, who + had charge of the rival trading posts established in that neighborhood. + Mr. M’Tavish was the delighted messenger of bad news. He had been to Lake + Winnipeg, where he received an express from Canada, containing the + declaration of war, and President Madison’s proclamation, which he handed + with the most officious complaisance to Messrs. Clarke and M’Kenzie. He + moreover told them that he had received a fresh supply of goods from the + Northwest posts on the other side of the Rocky Mountains, and was prepared + for vigorous opposition to the establishment of the American Company. He + capped the climax of this obliging but belligerent intelligence, by + informing them that the armed ship, Isaac Todd, was to be at the mouth of + the Columbia about the beginning of March, to get possession of the trade + of the river, and that he was ordered to join her there at that time. + </p> + <p> + The receipt of this news determined M’Kenzie. He immediately returned to + the Shahaptan, broke up his establishment, deposited his goods in cache, + and hastened with all his people to Astoria. + </p> + <p> + The intelligence thus brought, completed the dismay of M’Dougal, and + seemed to produce a complete confusion of mind. He held a council of war + with M’Kenzie, at which some of the clerks were present, but of course had + no votes. They gave up all hope of maintaining their post at Astoria. The + Beaver had probably been lost; they could receive no aid from the United + States, as all the ports would be blockaded. From England nothing could be + expected but hostility. It was determined, therefore, to abandon the + establishment in the course of the following spring, and return across the + Rocky Mountains. In pursuance of this resolution, they suspended all trade + with the natives, except for provisions, having already more peltries than + they could carry away, and having need of all the goods for the clothing + and subsistence of their people, during the remainder of their sojourn, + and on their journey across the mountains, This intention of abandoning + Astoria was, however, kept secret from the men, lest they should at once + give up all labor, and become restless and insubordinate. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, M’Kenzie set off for his post at the Shahaptan, to get + his goods from the caches, and buy horses and provisions with them for the + caravan across the mountains. He was charged with despatches from M’Dougal + to Messrs. Stuart and Clarke, appraising them of the intended migration, + that they might make timely preparations. + </p> + <p> + M’Kenzie was accompanied by two of the clerks, Mr. John Reed, the + Irishman, and Mr. Alfred Seton, of New York. They embarked in two canoes, + manned by seventeen men, and ascended the river without any incident of + importance, until they arrived in the eventful neighborhood of the rapids. + They made the portage of the narrows and the falls early in the afternoon, + and, having partaken of a scanty meal, had now a long evening on their + hands. + </p> + <p> + On the opposite side of the river lay the village of Wish-ram, of + freebooting renown. Here lived the savages who had robbed and maltreated + Reed, when bearing his tin box of despatches. It was known that the rifle + of which he was despoiled was retained as a trophy at the village. + M’Kenzie offered to cross the river, and demand the rifle, if any one + would accompany him. It was a hare-brained project, for these villages + were noted for the ruffian character of their inhabitants; yet two + volunteers promptly stepped forward; Alfred Seton, the clerk, and Joe de + la Pierre, the cook. The trio soon reached the opposite side of the river. + On landing, they freshly primed their rifles and pistols. A path winding + for about a hundred yards among rocks and crags, led to the village. No + notice seemed to be taken of their approach. Not a solitary being, man, + woman, or child, greeted them. + </p> + <p> + The very dogs, those noisy pests of an Indian town, kept silence. On + entering the village, a boy made his appearance, and pointed to a house of + larger dimensions than the rest. They had to stoop to enter it; as soon as + they had passed the threshold, the narrow passage behind them was filled + up by a sudden rush of Indians, who had before kept out of sight. + </p> + <p> + M’Kenzie and his companions found themselves in a rude chamber of about + twenty-five feet long and twenty wide. A bright fire was blazing at one + end, near which sat the chief, about sixty years old. A large number of + Indians, wrapped in buffalo robes, were squatted in rows, three deep, + forming a semicircle round three sides of the room. A single glance around + sufficed to show them the grim and dangerous assembly into which they had + intruded, and that all retreat was cut off by the mass which blocked up + the entrance. + </p> + <p> + The chief pointed to the vacant side of the room opposite to the door, and + motioned for them to take their seats. They complied. A dead pause ensued. + The grim warriors around sat like statues; each muffled in his robe, with + his fierce eyes bent on the intruders. The latter felt they were in a + perilous predicament. + </p> + <p> + “Keep your eyes on the chief while I am addressing him,” said M’Kenzie to + his companions. “Should he give any sign to his band, shoot him, and make + for the door.” + </p> + <p> + M’Kenzie advanced, and offered the pipe of peace to the chief, but it was + refused. He then made a regular speech, explaining the object of their + visit, and proposing to give in exchange for the rifle two blankets, an + axe, some beads and tobacco. + </p> + <p> + When he had done, the chief rose, began to address him in a low voice, but + soon became loud and violent, and ended by working himself up into a + furious passion. He upbraided the white men for their sordid conduct in + passing and repassing through their neighborhood, without giving them a + blanket or any other article of goods, merely because they had no furs to + barter in exchange, and he alluded, with menaces of vengeance, to the + death of the Indian killed by the whites in the skirmish at the falls. + </p> + <p> + Matters were verging to a crisis. It was evident the surrounding savages + were only waiting a signal from the chief to spring upon their prey. + M’Kenzie and his companions had gradually risen on their feet during the + speech, and had brought their rifles to a horizontal position, the barrels + resting in their left hands; the muzzle of M’Kenzie’s piece was within + three feet of the speaker’s heart. They cocked their rifles; the click of + the locks for a moment suffused the dark cheek of the savage, and there + was a pause. They coolly, but promptly, advanced to the door; the Indians + fell back in awe, and suffered them to pass. The sun was just setting, as + they emerged from this dangerous den. They took the precaution to keep + along the tops of the rocks as much as possible on their way back to the + canoe, and reached their camp in safety, congratulating themselves on + their escape, and feeling no desire to make a second visit to the grim + warriors of Wish-ram. + </p> + <p> + M’Kenzie and his party resumed their journey the next morning. At some + distance above the falls of the Columbia, they observed two bark canoes, + filled with white men, coming down the river, to the full chant of a set + of Canadian voyageurs. A parley ensued. It was a detachment of + Northwesters, under the command of Mr. John George M’Tavish, bound, full + of song and spirit, to the mouth of the Columbia, to await the arrival of + the Isaac Todd. + </p> + <p> + Mr. M’Kenzie and M’Tavish came to a halt, and landing, encamped for the + night. The voyageurs of either party hailed each other as brothers, and + old “comrades,” and they mingled together as if united by one common + interest, instead of belonging to rival companies, and trading under + hostile flags. + </p> + <p> + In the morning they proceeded on their different ways, in style + corresponding to their different fortunes: the one toiling painfully + against the stream, the other sweeping down gayly with the Current. + </p> + <p> + M’Kenzie arrived safely at his deserted post on the Shahaptan, but found, + to his chagrin, that his caches had been discovered and rifled by the + Indians. Here was a dilemma, for on the stolen goods he had depended to + purchase horses of the Indians. He sent out men in all directions to + endeavor to discover the thieves, and despatched Mr. Reed to the posts of + Messrs. Clarke and David Stuart, with the letters of Mr. M’Dougal. + </p> + <p> + The resolution announced in these letters, to break up and depart from + Astoria, was condemned by both Clarke and Stuart. These two gentlemen had + been very successful at their posts, and considered it rash and + pusillanimous to abandon, on the first difficulty, an enterprise of such + great cost and ample promise. They made no arrangements, therefore, for + leaving the country, but acted with a view to the maintenance of their new + and prosperous establishments. + </p> + <p> + The regular time approached, when the partners of the interior—posts + were to rendezvous at the mouth of the Wallah-Wallah, on their way to + Astoria, with the peltries they had collected. Mr. Clarke accordingly + packed all his furs on twenty-eight horses, and, leaving a clerk and four + men to take charge of the post, departed on the 25th of May with the + residue of his force. + </p> + <p> + On the 30th, he arrived at the confluence of the Pavion and Lewis rivers, + where he had left his barge and canoes, in the guardianship of the old + Pierced-nosed chieftain. That dignitary had acquitted himself more + faithfully to his charge than Mr. Clarke had expected, and the canoes were + found in very tolerable order. Some repairs were necessary, and, while + they were making, the party encamped close by the village. Having had + repeated and vexatious proofs of the pilfering propensities of this tribe + during his former visit, Mr. Clarke ordered that a wary eye should be kept + upon them. + </p> + <p> + He was a tall, good-looking man, and somewhat given to pomp and + circumstance, which made him an object of note in the eyes of the + wondering savages. He was stately, too, in his appointments, and had a + silver goblet or drinking cup, out of which he would drink with a + magnificent air, and then lock it up in a large garde vin, which + accompanied him in his travels, and stood in his tent. This goblet had + originally been sent as a present from Mr. Astor to Mr. M’Kay, the partner + who had unfortunately been blown up in the Tonquin. As it reached Astoria + after the departure of that gentleman, it had remained in the possession + of Mr. Clarke. + </p> + <p> + A silver goblet was too glittering a prize not to catch the eye of a + Pierced-nose. It was like the shining tin case of John Reed. Such a wonder + had never been seen in the land before. The Indians talked about it to one + another. They marked the care with which it was deposited in the garde + vin, like a relic in its shrine, and concluded that it must be a “great + medicine.” That night Mr. Clarke neglected to lock up his treasure; in the + morning the sacred casket was open—the precious relic gone! + </p> + <p> + Clarke was now outrageous. All the past vexations that he had suffered + from this pilfering community rose to mind, and he threatened that, unless + the goblet was promptly returned, he would hang the thief, should he + eventually discover him. The day passed away, however, without the + restoration of the cup. At night sentinels were secretly posted about the + camp. With all their vigilance, a Pierced-nose contrived to get into the + camp unperceived, and to load himself with booty; it was only on his + retreat that he was discovered and taken. + </p> + <p> + At daybreak the culprit was brought to trial, and promptly convicted. He + stood responsible for all the spoliations of the camp, the precious goblet + among the number, and Mr. Clarke passed sentence of death upon him. + </p> + <p> + A gibbet was accordingly constructed of oars; the chief of the village and + his people were assembled, and the culprit was produced, with his legs and + arms pinioned. Clarke then made a harangue. He reminded the tribe of the + benefits he had bestowed upon them during his former visits, and the many + thefts and other misdeeds which he had overlooked. The prisoner, + especially, had always been peculiarly well treated by the white men, but + had repeatedly been guilty of pilfering. He was to be punished for his own + misdeeds, and as a warning to his tribe. + </p> + <p> + The Indians now gathered round Mr. Clarke, and interceded for the culprit. + They were willing he should be punished severely, but implored that his + life might be spared. The companions, too, of Mr. Clarke, considered the + sentence too severe, and advised him to mitigate it; but he was + inexorable. He was not naturally a stern or cruel man; but from his + boyhood he had lived in the Indian country among Indian traders, and held + the life of a savage extremely cheap. He was, moreover, a firm believer in + the doctrine of intimidation. + </p> + <p> + Farnham, a clerk, a tall “Green Mountain boy” from Vermont, who had been + robbed of a pistol, acted as executioner. The signal was given, and the + poor Pierced-nose resisting, struggling, and screaming, in the most + frightful manner, was launched into eternity. The Indians stood round + gazing in silence and mute awe, but made no attempt to oppose the + execution, nor testified any emotion when it was over. They locked up + their feelings within their bosoms until an opportunity should arrive to + gratify them with a bloody act of vengeance. + </p> + <p> + To say nothing of the needless severity of this act, its impolicy was + glaringly obvious. Mr. M’Lennan and three men were to return to the post + with the horses, their loads having been transferred to the canoes. They + would have to pass through a tract of country infested by this tribe, who + were all horsemen and hard riders, and might pursue them to take vengeance + for the death of their comrade. M’Lennan, however, was a resolute fellow, + and made light of all dangers. He and his three men were present at the + execution, and set off as soon as life was extinct in the victim; but, to + use the words of one of their comrades, “they did not let the grass grow + under the heels of their horses, as they clattered out of the Pierced-nose + country,” and were glad to find themselves in safety at the post. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Clarke and his party embarked about the same time in their canoes, and + early on the following day reached the mouth of the Wallah-Wallah, where + they found Messrs. Stuart and M’Kenzie awaiting them; the latter having + recovered part of the goods stolen from his cache. Clarke informed them of + the signal punishment he had inflicted on the Pierced-nose, evidently + expecting to excite their admiration by such a hardy act of justice, + performed in the very midst of the Indian country, but was mortified at + finding it strongly censured as inhuman, unnecessary, and likely to + provoke hostilities. + </p> + <p> + The parties thus united formed a squadron of two boats and six canoes, + with which they performed their voyage in safety down the river, and + arrived at Astoria on the 12th of June, bringing with them a valuable + stock of peltries. + </p> + <p> + About ten days previously, the brigade which had been quartered on the + banks of the Wollamut, had arrived with numerous packs of beaver, the + result of a few months’ sojourn on that river. These were the first fruits + of the enterprise, gathered by men as yet mere strangers in the land; but + they were such as to give substantial grounds for sanguine anticipations + of profit, when the country should be more completely explored, and the + trade established. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0055" id="link2HCH0055"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LIV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + The Partners Displeased With M’Dougal.—Equivocal Conduct of + That Gentleman—Partners Agree to Abandon Astoria.—Sale of + Goods to M’Tavish.—Arrangements for the Year.—Manifesto + Signed by the Partners—Departure of M’Tavish for the + Interior. +</pre> + <p> + THE partners found Mr. M’Dougal in all the bustle of preparation; having + about nine days previously announced at the factory, his intention of + breaking up the establishment, and fixed upon the 1st of July for the time + of departure. Messrs. Stuart and Clarke felt highly displeased at his + taking so precipitate a step, without waiting for their concurrence, when + he must have known that their arrival could not be far distant. + </p> + <p> + Indeed, the whole conduct of Mr. M’Dougal was such as to awaken strong + doubts as to his loyal devotion to the cause. His old sympathies with the + Northwest Company seem to have revived. He had received M’Tavish and his + party with uncalled for hospitality, as though they were friends and + allies, instead of being a party of observation, come to reconnoitre the + state of affairs at Astoria, and to await the arrival of a hostile ship. + Had they been left to themselves, they would have been starved off for + want of provisions, or driven away by the Chinooks, who only wanted a + signal from the factory to treat them as intruders and enemies. M’Dougal, + on the contrary, had supplied them from the stores of the garrison, and + had gained them the favor of the Indians, by treating them as friends. + </p> + <p> + Having set his mind fixedly on the project of breaking up the + establishment at Astoria, in the current year, M’Dougal was sorely + disappointed at finding that Messrs. Stuart and Clarke had omitted to + comply with his request to purchase horses and provisions for the caravan + across the mountains. It was now too late to make the necessary + preparations in time for traversing the mountains before winter, and the + project had to be postponed. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, the non-arrival of the annual ship, and the apprehensions + entertained of the loss of the Beaver and of Mr. Hunt, had their effect + upon the minds of Messrs. Stuart and Clarke. They began to listen to the + desponding representations of M’Dougal, seconded by M’Kenzie, who + inveighed against their situation as desperate and forlorn; left to shift + for themselves, or perish upon a barbarous coast; neglected by those who + sent them there; and threatened with dangers of every kind. In this way + they were brought to consent to the plan of abandoning the country in the + ensuing year. + </p> + <p> + About this time, M’Tavish applied at the factory to purchase a small + supply of goods wherewith to trade his way back to his post on the upper + waters of the Columbia, having waited in vain for the arrival of the Isaac + Todd. His request brought on a consultation among the partners. M’Dougal + urged that it should be complied with. He furthermore proposed, that they + should give up to M’Tavish, for a proper consideration, the post on the + Spokan, and all its dependencies, as they had not sufficient goods on hand + to supply that post themselves, and to keep up a competition with the + Northwest Company in the trade with the neighboring Indians. This last + representation has since been proved incorrect. By inventories, it appears + that their stock in hand for the supply of the interior posts, was + superior to that of the Northwest Company; so that they had nothing to + fear from competition. + </p> + <p> + Through the influence of Messrs. M’Dougal and M’Kenzie, this proposition + was adopted, and was promptly accepted by M’Tavish. The merchandise sold + to him amounted to eight hundred and fifty-eight dollars, to be paid for, + in the following spring, in horses, or in any other manner most acceptable + to the partners at that period. + </p> + <p> + This agreement being concluded, the partners formed their plans for the + year that they would yet have to pass in the country. Their objects were, + chiefly, present subsistence, and the purchase of horses for the + contemplated journey, though they were likewise to collect as much + peltries as their diminished means would command. Accordingly, it was + arranged that David Stuart should return to his former post on the + Oakinagan, and Mr. Clarke should make his sojourn among the Flatheads. + John Reed, the sturdy Hibernian, was to undertake the Snake River country, + accompanied by Pierre Dorion and Pierre Delaunay, as hunters, and Francis + Landry, Jean Baptiste Turcotte, Andre la Chapelle, and Gilles le Clerc, + Canadian voyageurs. + </p> + <p> + Astoria, however, was the post about which they felt the greatest + solicitude, and on which they all more or less depended. The maintenance + of this in safety throughout the coming year, was, therefore, their grand + consideration. Mr. M’Dougal was to continue in command of it, with a party + of forty men. They would have to depend chiefly upon the neighboring + savages for their subsistence. These, at present, were friendly, but it + was to be feared that, when they should discover the exigencies of the + post, and its real weakness, they might proceed to hostilities; or, at any + rate, might cease to furnish their usual supplies. It was important, + therefore, to render the place as independent as possible, of the + surrounding tribes for its support; and it was accordingly resolved that + M’Kenzie, with four hunters, and eight common men, should winter in the + abundant country of Wollamut, from whence they might be enabled to furnish + a constant supply of provisions to Astoria. + </p> + <p> + As there was too great a proportion of clerks for the number of privates + in the service, the engagements of three of them, Ross Cox, Ross, and + M’Lennan, were surrendered to them, and they immediately enrolled + themselves in the service of the Northwest Company; glad, no doubt, to + escape from what they considered a sinking ship. + </p> + <p> + Having made all these arrangements, the four partners, on the first of + July, signed a formal manifesto, stating the alarming state of their + affairs, from the non-arrival of the annual ship, and the absence and + apprehended loss of the Beaver, their want of goods, their despair of + receiving any further supply, their ignorance of the coast, and their + disappointment as to the interior trade, which they pronounced unequal to + the expenses incurred, and incompetent to stand against the powerful + opposition of the Northwest Company. And as by the 16th article of the + company’s agreement, they were authorized to abandon this undertaking, and + dissolve the concern, if before the period of five years it should be + found unprofitable, they now formally announced their intention to do so + on the 1st day of June, of the ensuing year, unless in the interim they + should receive the necessary support and supplies from Mr. Astor, or the + stockholders, with orders to continue. + </p> + <p> + This instrument, accompanied by private letters of similar import, was + delivered to Mr. M’Tavish, who departed on the 5th of July. He engaged to + forward the despatches to Mr. Astor, by the usual winter express sent + overland by the Northwest Company. + </p> + <p> + The manifesto was signed with great reluctance by Messrs. Clarke and D. + Stuart, whose experience by no means justified the discouraging account + given in it of the internal trade, and who considered the main + difficulties of exploring an unknown and savage country, and of + ascertaining the best trading and trapping grounds, in a great measure + overcome. They were overruled, however, by the urgent instances of + M’Dougal and M’Kenzie, who, having resolved upon abandoning the + enterprise, were desirous of making as strong a case as possible to excuse + their conduct to Mr. Astor and to the world. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0056" id="link2HCH0056"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LV. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Anxieties of Mr. Astor.—Memorial of the Northwest Company— + Tidings of a British Naval Expedition Against Astoria.—Mr. + Astor Applies to Government for Protection.—The Frigate + Adams Ordered to be Fitted Out.—Bright News From Astoria.— + Sunshine Suddenly Overclouded. +</pre> + <p> + WHILE difficulties and disasters had been gathering about the infant + settlement of Astoria, the mind of its projector at New York was a prey to + great anxiety. The ship Lark, despatched by him with supplies for the + establishment, sailed on the 6th of March, 1813. Within a fortnight + afterwards, he received intelligence which justified all his apprehensions + of hostility on the part of the British. The Northwest Company had made a + second memorial to that government, representing Astoria as an American + establishment, stating the vast scope of its contemplated operations, + magnifying the strength of its fortifications, and expressing their fears + that, unless crushed in the bud, it would effect the downfall of their + trade. + </p> + <p> + Influenced by these representations, the British government ordered the + frigate Phoebe to be detached as a convoy for the armed ship, Isaac Todd, + which was ready to sail with men and munitions for forming a new + establishment. They were to proceed together to the mouth of the Columbia, + capture or destroy whatever American fortress they should find there, and + plant the British flag on its ruins. + </p> + <p> + Informed of these movements, Mr. Astor lost no time in addressing a second + letter to the secretary of state, communicating this intelligence, and + requesting it might be laid before the President; as no notice, however, + had been taken of his previous letter, he contented himself with this + simple communication, and made no further application for aid. + </p> + <p> + Awakened now to the danger that menaced the establishment at Astoria, and + aware of the importance of protecting this foothold of American commerce + and empire on the shores of the Pacific, the government determined to send + the frigate Adams, Captain Crane, upon this service. On hearing of this + determination, Mr. Astor immediately proceeded to fit out a ship called + the Enterprise, to sail in company with the Adams, freighted with + additional supplies and reinforcements for Astoria. + </p> + <p> + About the middle of June, while in the midst of these preparations, Mr. + Astor received a letter from Mr. R. Stuart, dated St. Louis, May 1st, + confirming the intelligence already received through the public + newspapers, of his safe return, and of the arrival of Mr. Hunt and his + party at Astoria, and giving the most flattering accounts of the + prosperity of the enterprise. + </p> + <p> + So deep had been the anxiety of Mr. Astor, for the success of this object + of his ambition, that this gleam of good news was almost overpowering. “I + felt ready,” said he, “to fall upon my knees in a transport of gratitude.” + </p> + <p> + At the same time he heard that the Beaver had made good her voyage from + New York to the Columbia. This was additional ground of hope for the + welfare of the little colony. The post being thus relieved and + strengthened, with an American at its head, and a ship of war about to + sail for its protection, the prospect for the future seemed full of + encouragement, and Mr. Astor proceeded with fresh vigor to fit out his + merchant ship. + </p> + <p> + Unfortunately for Astoria, this bright gleam of sunshine was soon + overclouded. Just as the Adams had received her complement of men, and the + two vessels were ready for sea, news came from Commodore Chauncey, + commanding on Lake Ontario, that a reinforcement of seamen was wanted in + that quarter. The demand was urgent, the crew of the Adams was immediately + transferred to that service, and the ship was laid up. + </p> + <p> + This was a most ill-timed and discouraging blow, but Mr. Astor would not + yet allow himself to pause in his undertaking. He determined to send the + Enterprise to sea alone, and let her take the chance of making her + unprotected way across the ocean. Just at this time, however, a British + force made its appearance off the Hook; and the port of New York was + effectually blockaded. To send a ship to sea under these circumstances, + would be to expose her to almost certain capture. The Enterprise was, + therefore, unloaded and dismantled, and Mr. Astor was obliged to comfort + himself with the hope that the Lark might reach Astoria in safety and, + that, aided by her supplies, and by the good management of Mr. Hunt and + his associates, the little colony might be able to maintain itself until + the return of peace. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0057" id="link2HCH0057"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LVI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Affairs of State at Astoria.—M’Dougal Proposes for the Hand + of An Indian Princess—Matrimonial Embassy to Comcomly.— + Matrimonial Notions Among the Chinooks.—Settlements and + Pin-Money.—The Bringing Home of the Bride.—A Managing + Father-in-Law.—Arrival of Mr. Hunt at Astoria. +</pre> + <p> + WE have hitherto had so much to relate of a gloomy and disastrous nature, + that it is with a feeling of momentary relief we turn to something of a + more pleasing complexion, and record the first, and indeed only nuptials + in high life that took place in the infant settlement of Astoria. + </p> + <p> + M’Dougal, who appears to have been a man of a thousand projects, and of + great, though somewhat irregular ambition, suddenly conceived the idea of + seeking the hand of one of the native princesses, a daughter of the + one-eyed potentate Comcomly, who held sway over the fishing tribe of the + Chinooks, and had long supplied the factory with smelts and sturgeons. + </p> + <p> + Some accounts give rather a romantic origin to this affair, tracing it to + the stormy night when M’Dougal, in the course of an exploring expedition, + was driven by stress of weather to seek shelter in the royal abode of + Comcomly. Then and there he was first struck with the charms of the + piscatory princess, as she exerted herself to entertain her father’s + guest. + </p> + <p> + The “journal of Astoria,” however, which was kept under his own eye, + records this union as a high state alliance, and great stroke of policy. + The factory had to depend, in a great measure, on the Chinooks for + provisions. They were at present friendly, but it was to be feared they + would prove otherwise, should they discover the weakness and the + exigencies of the post, and the intention to leave the country. This + alliance, therefore, would infallibly rivet Comcomly to the interests of + the Astorians, and with him the powerful tribe of the Chinooks. Be this as + it may, and it is hard to fathom the real policy of governors and princes, + M’Dougal despatched two of the clerks as ambassadors extraordinary, to + wait upon the one-eyed chieftain, and make overtures for the hand of his + daughter. + </p> + <p> + The Chinooks, though not a very refined nation, have notions of + matrimonial arrangements that would not disgrace the most refined + sticklers for settlements and pin-money. The suitor repairs not to the + bower of his mistress, but to her father’s lodge, and throws down a + present at his feet. His wishes are then disclosed by some discreet friend + employed by him for the purpose. If the suitor and his present find favor + in the eyes of the father, he breaks the matter to his daughter, and + inquires into the state of her inclinations. Should her answer be + favorable, the suit is accepted and the lover has to make further presents + to the father, of horses, canoes, and other valuables, according to the + beauty and merits of the bride; looking forward to a return in kind + whenever they shall go to housekeeping. + </p> + <p> + We have more than once had occasion to speak of the shrewdness, of + Comcomly; but never was it exerted more adroitly than on this occasion. He + was a great friend of M’Dougal, and pleased with the idea of having so + distinguished a son-in-law; but so favorable an opportunity of benefiting + his own fortune was not likely to occur a second time, and he determined + to make the most of it. Accordingly, the negotiation was protracted with + true diplomatic skill. Conference after conference was held with the two + ambassadors. Comcomly was extravagant in his terms; rating the charms of + his daughter at the highest price, and indeed she is represented as having + one of the flattest and most aristocratical heads in the tribe. At length + the preliminaries were all happily adjusted. On the 20th of July, early in + the afternoon, a squadron of canoes crossed over from the village of the + Chinooks, bearing the royal family of Comcomly, and all his court. + </p> + <p> + That worthy sachem landed in princely state, arrayed in a bright blue + blanket and red breech clout, with an extra quantity of paint and + feathers, attended by a train of half-naked warriors and nobles. A horse + was in waiting to receive the princess, who was mounted behind one of the + clerks, and thus conveyed, coy but compliant, to the fortress. Here she + was received with devout, though decent joy, by her expecting bridegroom. + </p> + <p> + Her bridal adornments, it is true, at first caused some little dismay, + having painted and anointed herself for the occasion according to the + Chinook toilet; by dint, however, of copious ablutions, she was freed from + all adventitious tint and fragrance, and entered into the nuptial state, + the cleanest princess that had ever been known, of the somewhat unctuous + tribe of the Chinooks. + </p> + <p> + From that time forward, Comcomly was a daily visitor at the fort, and was + admitted into the most intimate councils of his son-in-law. He took an + interest in everything that was going forward, but was particularly + frequent in his visits to the blacksmith’s shop; tasking the labors of the + artificer in iron for every state, insomuch that the necessary business of + the factory was often postponed to attend to his requisitions. + </p> + <p> + The honey-moon had scarce passed away, and M’Dougal was seated with his + bride in the fortress of Astoria, when, about noon of the 20th of August, + Gassacop, the son of Comcomly, hurried into his presence with great + agitation, and announced a ship at the mouth of the river. The news + produced a vast sensation. Was it a ship of peace or war? Was it American + or British? Was it the Beaver or the Isaac Todd? M’Dougal hurried to the + waterside, threw himself into a boat, and ordered the hands to pull with + all speed for the mouth of the harbor. Those in the fort remained watching + the entrance of the river, anxious to know whether they were to prepare + for greeting a friend or fighting an enemy. At length the ship was + descried crossing the bar, and bending her course towards Astoria. Every + gaze was fixed upon her in silent scrutiny, until the American flag was + recognized. A general shout was the first expression of joy, and next a + salutation was thundered from the cannon of the fort. + </p> + <p> + The vessel came to anchor on the opposite side of the river, and returned + the salute. The boat of Mr. M’Dougal went on board, and was seen returning + late in the afternoon. The Astorians watched her with straining eyes, to + discover who were on board, but the sun went down, and the evening closed + in, before she was sufficiently near. At length she reached the land, and + Mr. Hunt stepped on shore. He was hailed as one risen from the dead, and + his return was a signal for merriment almost equal to that which prevailed + at the nuptials of M’Dougal. + </p> + <p> + We must now explain the cause of this gentleman’s long absence, which had + given rise to such gloomy and dispiriting surmises. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0058" id="link2HCH0058"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LVII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Voyage of the Beaver to New Archangel.—A Russian Governor.— + Roystering Rule.—The Tyranny of the Table—Hard Drinking + Bargainings.—Voyage to Kamtschatka.—Seal Catching + Establishment at St. Paul’s.—Storms at Sea.—Mr. Hunt Left + at the Sandwich Islands.—Transactions of the Beaver at + Canton.—Return of Mr. Hunt to Astoria. +</pre> + <p> + IT will be recollected that the destination of the Boston, when she sailed + from Astoria on the 4th of August in 1812, was to proceed northwardly + along the coast to Sheetka, or New Archangel, there to dispose of that + part of her cargo intended for the supply of the Russian establishment at + that place, and then to return to Astoria, where it was expected she would + arrive in October. + </p> + <p> + New Archangel is situated in Norfolk Sound, lat. 57deg 2’ N., long. 135deg + 50’ W. It was the head-quarters of the different colonies of the Russian + Fur Company, and the common rendezvous of the American vessels trading + along the coast. + </p> + <p> + The Beaver met with nothing worthy of particular mention in her voyage, + and arrived at New Archangel on the 19th of August. The place at that time + was the residence of Count Baranoff, the governor of the different + colonies; a rough, rugged, hospitable, hard-drinking old Russian; somewhat + of a soldier; somewhat of a trader; above all, a boon companion of the old + roystering school, with a strong cross of the bear. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt found this hyperborean veteran ensconced in a fort which crested + the whole of a rocky promontory. It mounted one hundred guns, large and + small, and was impregnable to Indian attack, unaided by artillery. Here + the old governor lorded it over sixty Russians, who formed the corps of + the trading establishment, besides an indefinite number of Indian hunters + of the Kodiak tribe, who were continually coming and going, or lounging + and loitering about the fort like so many hounds round a sportsman’s + hunting quarters. Though a loose liver among his guests, the governor was + a strict disciplinarian among his men; keeping them in perfect subjection, + and having seven on guard night and day. + </p> + <p> + Besides those immediate serfs and dependents just mentioned, the old + Russian potentate exerted a considerable sway over a numerous and + irregular class of maritime traders, who looked to him for aid and + munitions, and through whom he may be said to have, in some degree, + extended his power along the whole northwest coast. These were American + captains of vessels engaged in a particular department of the trade. One + of these captains would come, in a manner, empty-handed to New Archangel. + Here his ship would be furnished with about fifty canoes and a hundred + Kodiak hunters, and fitted out with provisions, and everything necessary + for hunting the sea-otter on the coast of California, where the Russians + have another establishment. The ship would ply along the California coast + from place to place, dropping parties of otter hunters in their canoes, + furnishing them only with water, and leaving them to depend upon their own + dexterity for a maintenance. When a sufficient cargo was collected, she + would gather up her canoes and hunters, and return with them to Archangel; + where the captain would render in the returns of his voyage, and receive + one half of the skins for his share. + </p> + <p> + Over these coasting captains, as we have hinted, the veteran governor + exerted some sort of sway, but it was of a peculiar and characteristic + kind; it was the tyranny of the table. They were obliged to join him in + his “prosnics” or carousals, and to drink “potations pottle deep.” His + carousals, too, were not of the most quiet kind, nor were his potations as + mild as nectar. “He is continually,” said Mr. Hunt, “giving entertainments + by way of parade, and if you do not drink raw rum, and boiling punch as + strong as sulphur, he will insult you as soon as he gets drunk, which is + very shortly after sitting down to table.” + </p> + <p> + As to any “temperance captain” who stood fast to his faith, and refused to + give up his sobriety, he might go elsewhere for a market, for he stood no + chance with the governor. Rarely, however, did any cold-water caitiff of + the kind darken the doors of old Baranoff; the coasting captains knew too + well his humor and their own interests; they joined in his revels, they + drank, and sang, and whooped, and hiccuped, until they all got “half seas + over,” and then affairs went on swimmingly. + </p> + <p> + An awful warning to all “flinchers” occurred shortly before Mr. Hunt’s + arrival. A young naval officer had recently been sent out by the emperor + to take command of one of the company’s vessels. The governor, as usual, + had him at his “prosnics,” and plied him with fiery potations. The young + man stood on the defensive until the old count’s ire was completely + kindled; he carried his point, and made the greenhorn tipsy, willy nilly. + In proportion as they grew fuddled they grew noisy, they quarrelled in + their cups; the youngster paid old Baranoff in his own coin by rating him + soundly; in reward for which, when sober, he was taken the rounds of four + pickets, and received seventy-nine lashes, taled out with Russian + punctuality of punishment. + </p> + <p> + Such was the old grizzled bear with whom Mr. Hunt had to do his business. + How he managed to cope with his humor; whether he pledged himself in raw + rum and blazing punch, and “clinked the can” with him as they made their + bargains, does not appear upon record; we must infer, however, from his + general observations on the absolute sway of this hard-drinking potentate, + that he had to conform to the customs of his court, and that their + business transactions presented a maudlin mixture of punch and peltry. + </p> + <p> + The greatest annoyance to Mr. Hunt, however, was the delay to which he was + subjected, in disposing of the cargo of the ship, and getting the + requisite returns. With all the governor’s devotions to the bottle, he + never obfuscated his faculties sufficiently to lose sight of his interest, + and is represented by Mr. Hunt as keen, not to say crafty, at a bargain, + as the most arrant waterdrinker. A long time was expended negotiating with + him, and by the time the bargain was concluded, the month of October had + arrived. To add to the delay he was to be paid for his cargo in seal + skins. Now it so happened that there was none of this kind of peltry at + the fort of old Baranoff. It was necessary, therefore, for Mr. Hunt to + proceed to a seal-catching establishment, which the Russian company had at + the island of St. Paul, in the Sea of Kamtschatka. He accordingly set sail + on the 4th of October, after having spent forty-five days at New Archangel + boosing and bargaining with its roystering commander, and right glad was + he to escape from the clutches of “this old man of the sea.” + </p> + <p> + The Beaver arrived at St. Paul’s on the 31st of October; by which time, + according to arrangement, he ought to have been back at Astoria. The + island of St. Paul is in latitude 57deg N., longitude 170deg or 171deg W. + Its shores, in certain places, and at certain seasons, are covered with + seals, while others are playing about in the water. Of these, the Russians + take only the small ones, from seven to ten months old, and carefully + select the males, giving the females their freedom, that the breed may not + be diminished. The islanders, however, kill the large ones for provisions, + and for skins wherewith to cover their canoes. They drive them from the + shore over the rocks, until within a short distance of their habitations, + where they kill them. By this means, they save themselves the trouble of + carrying the skins and have the flesh at hand. This is thrown in heaps, + and when the season for skinning is over, they take out the entrails and + make one heap of the blubber. This, with drift-wood, serves for fuel, for + the island is entirely destitute of trees. They make another heap of the + flesh, which, with the eggs of sea-fowls, preserved in oil, an occasional + sea-lion, a few ducks in winter, and some wild roots, compose their food. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt found several Russians at the island, and one hundred hunters, + natives of Oonalaska, with their families. They lived in cabins that + looked like canoes; being, for the most part formed of the jaw-bone of a + whale, put up as rafters, across which were laid pieces of driftwood + covered over with long grass, the skins of large sea animals, and earth; + so as to be quite comfortable, in despite of the rigors of the climate; + though we are told they had as ancient and fish-like an odor, “as had the + quarters of Jonah, when he lodged within the whale.” + </p> + <p> + In one of these odoriferous mansions, Mr. Hunt occasionally took up his + abode, that he might be at hand to hasten the loading of the ship. The + operation, however, was somewhat slow, for it was necessary to overhaul + and inspect every pack to prevent imposition, and the peltries had then to + be conveyed in large boats, made of skins, to the ship, which was some + little distance from the shore, standing off and on. + </p> + <p> + One night, while Mr. Hunt was on shore, with some others of the crew, + there arose a terrible gale. When the day broke, the ship was not to be + seen. He watched for her with anxious eyes until night, but in vain. Day + after day of boisterous storms, and howling wintry weather, were passed in + watchfulness and solicitude. Nothing was to be seen but a dark and angry + sea, and a scowling northern sky; and at night he retired within the jaws + of the whale, and nestled disconsolately among seal skins. + </p> + <p> + At length, on the 13th of November, the Beaver made her appearance; much + the worse for the stormy conflicts which she had sustained in those + hyperborean seas. She had been obliged to carry a press of sail in heavy + gales to be able to hold her ground, and had consequently sustained great + damage in her canvas and rigging. Mr. Hunt lost no time in hurrying the + residue of the cargo on board of her; then, bidding adieu to his + seal-fishing friends, and his whalebone habitation, he put forth once more + to sea. + </p> + <p> + He was now for making the best of his way to Astoria, and fortunate would + it have been for the interests of that place, and the interests of Mr. + Astor, had he done so; but, unluckily, a perplexing question rose in his + mind. The sails and rigging of the Beaver had been much rent and shattered + in the late storm; would she be able to stand the hard gales to be + expected in making Columbia River at this season? Was it prudent, also, at + this boisterous time of the year to risk the valuable cargo which she now + had on board, by crossing and recrossing the dangerous bar of that river? + These doubts were probably suggested or enforced by Captain Sowle, who, it + has already been seen, was an over-cautious, or rather, a timid seaman, + and they may have had some weight with Mr. Hunt; but there were other + considerations, which more strongly swayed his mind. The lateness of the + season, and the unforeseen delays the ship had encountered at New + Archangel, and by being obliged to proceed to St. Paul’s, had put her so + much back in her calculated time, that there was a risk of her arriving so + late at Canton, as to come to a bad market, both for the sale of her + peltries, and the purchase of a return cargo. He considered it to the + interest of the company, therefore, that he should proceed at once to the + Sandwich Islands; there wait the arrival of the annual vessel from New + York, take passage in her to Astoria, and suffer the Beaver to continue on + to Canton. + </p> + <p> + On the other hand, he was urged to the other course by his engagements; by + the plan of the voyage marked out for the Beaver, by Mr. Astor; by his + inclination, and the possibility that the establishment might need his + presence, and by the recollection that there must already be a large + amount of peltries collected at Astoria, and waiting for the return of the + Beaver, to convey them to market. + </p> + <p> + These conflicting questions perplexed and agitated his mind and gave rise + to much anxious reflection, for he was a conscientious man that seems ever + to have aimed at a faithful discharge of his duties, and to have had the + interests of his employers earnestly at heart. His decision in the present + instance was injudicious, and proved unfortunate. It was, to bear away for + the Sandwich Islands. He persuaded himself that it was a matter of + necessity, and that the distressed condition of the ship left him no other + alternative; but we rather suspect he was so persuaded by the + representations of the timid captain. They accordingly stood for the + Sandwich Islands, arrived at Woahoo, where the ship underwent the + necessary repairs, and again put to sea on the 1st of January, 1813; + leaving Mr. Hunt on the island. + </p> + <p> + We will follow the Beaver to Canton, as her fortunes, in some measure, + exemplify the evil of commanders of ships acting contrary to orders; and + as they form a part of the tissue of cross purposes that marred the great + commercial enterprise we have undertaken to record. + </p> + <p> + The Beaver arrived safe at Canton, where Captain Sowle found the letter of + Mr. Astor, giving him information of the war and directing him to convey + the intelligence to Astoria. He wrote a reply, dictated either by timidity + or obstinacy, in which he declined complying with the orders of Mr. Astor, + but said he would wait for the return of peace, and then come home. The + other proceedings of Captain Sowle were equally wrongheaded and unlucky. + He was offered one hundred and fifty thousand dollars for the fur he had + taken on board at St. Paul’s. The goods for which it had been procured + cost but twenty-five thousand dollars in New York. Had he accepted this + offer, and re-invested the amount in nankeens, which at that time, in + consequence of the interruption to commerce by the war, were at two thirds + of their usual price, the whole would have brought three hundred thousand + dollars in New York. It is true, the war would have rendered it unsafe to + attempt the homeward voyage, but he might have put the goods in store at + Canton, until after the peace, and have sailed without risk of capture to + Astoria; bringing to the partners at that place tidings of the great + profits realized on the outward cargo, and the still greater to be + expected from the returns. The news of such a brilliant commencement to + their undertaking would have counterbalanced the gloomy tidings of the + war; it would have infused new spirit into them all, and given them + courage and constancy to persevere in the enterprise. Captain Sowle, + however, refused the offer of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars, and + stood wavering and chaffering for higher terms. The furs began to fall in + value; this only increased his irresolution; they sunk so much that he + feared to sell at all; he borrowed money on Mr. Astor’s account at an + interest of eighteen per cent., and laid up his ship to await the return + of peace. + </p> + <p> + In the meanwhile, Mr. Hunt soon saw reason to repent the resolution he had + adopted in altering the destination of the ship. His stay at the Sandwich + Islands was prolonged far beyond expectation. He looked in vain for the + annual ship in the spring. Month after month passed by, and still she did + not make her appearance. He, too, proved the danger of departing from + orders. Had he returned from St. Paul’s to Astoria, all the anxiety and + despondency about his fate, and about the whole course of the undertaking, + would have been obviated. The Beaver would have received the furs + collected at the factory and taken them to Canton, and great gains, + instead of great losses, would have been the result. The greatest blunder, + however, was that committed by Captain Sowle. + </p> + <p> + At length, about the 20th of June, the ship Albatross, Captain Smith, + arrived from China, and brought the first tidings of the war to the + Sandwich Islands. Mr. Hunt was no longer in doubt and perplexity as to the + reason of the non-appearance of the annual ship. His first thoughts were + for the welfare of Astoria, and, concluding that the inhabitants would + probably be in want of provisions, he chartered the Albatross for two + thousand dollars, to land him, with some supplies, at the mouth of the + Columbia, where he arrived, as we have seen, on the 20th of August, after + a year’s seafaring that might have furnished a chapter in the wanderings + of Sinbad. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0059" id="link2HCH0059"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LVIII. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Arrangements Among the Partners—Mr. Hunt Sails in the + Albatross.—Arrives at the Marquesas—News of the Frigate + Phoebe.—Mr. Hunt Proceeds to the Sandwich Islands.—Voyage + of the Lark.—Her Shipwreck.—Transactions With the Natives + of the Sandwich Islands—Conduct of Tamaahmaah. +</pre> + <p> + MR. HUNT was overwhelmed with surprise when he learnt the resolution taken + by the partners to abandon Astoria. He soon found, however, that matters + had gone too far, and the minds of his colleagues had become too firmly + bent upon the measure, to render any opposition of avail. He was beset, + too, with the same disparaging accounts of the interior trade, and of the + whole concerns and prospects of the company that had been rendered to Mr. + Astor. His own experience had been full of perplexities and + discouragements. He had a conscientious anxiety for the interests of Mr. + Astor, and, not comprehending the extended views of that gentleman, and + his habit of operating with great amounts, he had from the first been + daunted by the enormous expenses required, and had become disheartened by + the subsequent losses sustained, which appeared to him to be ruinous in + their magnitude. By degrees, therefore, he was brought to acquiesce in the + step taken by his colleagues, as perhaps advisable in the exigencies of + the case; his only care was to wind up the business with as little further + loss as possible to Mr. Astor. + </p> + <p> + A large stock of valuable furs was collected at the factory, which it was + necessary to get to a market. There were twenty-five Sandwich Islanders + also in the employ of the company, whom they were bound, by express + agreement, to restore to their native country. For these purposes a ship + was necessary. + </p> + <p> + The Albatross was bound to the Marquesas, and thence to the Sandwich + Islands. It was resolved that Mr. Hunt should sail in her in quest of a + vessel, and should return, if possible, by the 1st of January, bringing + with him a supply of provisions. Should anything occur, however, to + prevent his return, an arrangement was to be proposed to Mr. M’Tavish, to + transfer such of the men as were so disposed, from the service of the + American Fur Company into that of the Northwest, the latter becoming + responsible for the wages due them, on receiving an equivalent in goods + from the store-house of the factory. As a means of facilitating the + despatch of business, Mr. M’Dougal proposed, that in case Mr. Hunt should + not return, the whole arrangement with Mr. M’Tavish should be left solely + to him. This was assented to; the contingency being considered possible, + but not probable. + </p> + <p> + It is proper to note, that, on the first announcement by Mr. M’Dougal of + his intention to break up the establishment, three of the clerks, British + subjects, had, with his consent, passed into the service of the Northwest + Company, and departed with Mr. M’Tavish for his post in the interior. + </p> + <p> + Having arranged all these matters during a sojourn of six days at Astoria, + Mr. Hunt set sail in the Albatross on the 26th of August, and arrived + without accident at the Marquesas. He had not been there long, when Porter + arrived in the frigate Essex, bringing in a number of stout London whalers + as prizes, having made a sweeping cruise in the Pacific. From Commodore + Porter he received the alarming intelligence that the British frigate + Phoebe, with a store-ship mounted with battering pieces, calculated to + attack forts, had arrived at Rio Janeiro, where she had been joined by the + sloops of war Cherub and Raccoon, and that they had all sailed in company + on the 6th of July for the Pacific, bound, as it was supposed, to Columbia + River. + </p> + <p> + Here, then, was the death-warrant of unfortunate Astoria! The anxious mind + of Mr. Hunt was in greater perplexity than ever. He had been eager to + extricate the property of Mr. Astor from a failing concern with as little + loss as possible; there was now danger that the whole would be swallowed + up. How was it to be snatched from the gulf? It was impossible to charter + a ship for the purpose, now that a British squadron was on its way to the + river. He applied to purchase one of the whale ships brought in by + Commodore Porter. The commodore demanded twenty-five thousand dollars for + her. The price appeared exorbitant, and no bargain could be made. Mr. Hunt + then urged the commodore to fit out one of his prizes, and send her to + Astoria, to bring off the property and part of the people, but he + declined, “from want of authority.” He assured Mr. Hunt, however, that he + would endeavor to fall in with the enemy, or should he hear of their + having certainly gone to the Columbia, he would either follow or + anticipate them, should his circumstances warrant such a step. + </p> + <p> + In this tantalizing state of suspense, Mr. Hunt was detained at the + Marquesas until November 23d, when he proceeded in the Albatross to the + Sandwich Islands. He still cherished a faint hope that, notwithstanding + the war, and all other discouraging circumstances, the annual ship might + have been sent by Mr. Astor, and might have touched at the islands, and + proceeded to the Columbia. He knew the pride and interest taken by that + gentleman in his great enterprise, and that he would not be deterred by + dangers and difficulties from prosecuting it; much less would he leave the + infant establishment without succor and support in the time of trouble. In + this, we have seen, he did but justice to Mr. Astor; and we must now turn + to notice the cause of the non-arrival of the vessel which he had + despatched with reinforcements and supplies. Her voyage forms another + chapter of accidents in this eventful story. + </p> + <p> + The Lark sailed from New York on the 6th of March, 1813, and proceeded + prosperously on her voyage, until within a few degrees of the Sandwich + Islands. Here a gale sprang up that soon blew with tremendous violence. + The Lark was a staunch and noble ship, and for a time buffeted bravely + with the storm. Unluckily, however, she “broached to,” and was struck by a + heavy sea, that hove her on her beam-ends. The helm, too, was knocked to + leeward, all command of the vessel was lost, and another mountain wave + completely overset her. Orders were given to cut away the masts. In the + hurry and confusion, the boats also were unfortunately cut adrift. The + wreck then righted, but was a mere hulk, full of water, with a heavy sea + washing over it, and all the hatches off. On mustering the crew, one man + was missing, who was discovered below in the forecastle, drowned. + </p> + <p> + In cutting away the masts, it had been utterly impossible to observe the + necessary precaution of commencing with the lee rigging, that being, from + the position of the ship, completely under water. The masts and spars, + therefore, being linked to the wreck by the shrouds and the rigging, + remained alongside for four days. During all this time the ship lay + rolling in the trough of the sea, the heavy surges breaking over her, and + the spars heaving and banging to and fro, bruising the half-drowned + sailors that clung to the bowsprit and the stumps of the masts. The + sufferings of these poor fellows were intolerable. They stood to their + waists in water, in imminent peril of being washed off by every surge. In + this position they dared not sleep, lest they should let go their hold and + be swept away. The only dry place on the wreck was the bowsprit. Here they + took turns to be tied on, for half an hour at a time, and in this way + gained short snatches of sleep. + </p> + <p> + On the 14th, the first mate died at his post, and was swept off by the + surges. On the 17th, two seamen, faint and exhausted, were washed + overboard. The next wave threw their bodies back upon the deck, where they + remained, swashing backward and forward, ghastly objects to the almost + perishing survivors. Mr. Ogden, the supercargo, who was at the bowsprit, + called to the men nearest to the bodies, to fasten them to the wreck; as a + last horrible resource in case of being driven to extremity by famine! + </p> + <p> + On the 17th the gale gradually subsided, and the sea became calm. The + sailors now crawled feebly about the wreck, and began to relieve it from + the main incumbrances. The spars were cleared away, the anchors and guns + heaved overboard; the sprit-sail yard was rigged for a jury-mast, and a + mizzen topsail set upon it. A sort of stage was made of a few broken + spars, on which the crew were raised above the surface of the water, so as + to be enabled to keep themselves dry, and to sleep comfortably. Still + their sufferings from hunger and thirst were great; but there was a + Sandwich Islander on board, an expert swimmer, who found his way into the + cabin, and occasionally brought up a few bottles of wine and porter, and + at length got into the rum, and secured a quarter cask of wine. A little + raw pork was likewise procured, and dealt out with a sparing hand. The + horrors of their situation were increased by the sight of numerous sharks + prowling about the wreck, as if waiting for their prey. On the 24th, the + cook, a black man, died, and was cast into the sea, when he was instantly + seized on by these ravenous monsters. + </p> + <p> + They had been several days making slow headway under their scanty sail, + when, on the 25th, they came in sight of land. It was about fifteen + leagues distant, and they remained two or three days drifting along in + sight of it. On the 28th, they descried, to their great transport, a canoe + approaching, managed by natives. They came alongside, and brought a most + welcome supply of potatoes. They informed them that the land they had made + was one of the Sandwich Islands. The second mate and one of the seamen + went on shore in the canoe for water and provisions, and to procure aid + from the islanders, in towing the wreck into a harbor. + </p> + <p> + Neither of the men returned, nor was any assistance sent from shore. The + next day, ten or twelve canoes came alongside, but roamed round the wreck + like so many sharks, and would render no aid in towing her to land. + </p> + <p> + The sea continued to break over the vessel with such violence, that it was + impossible to stand at the helm without the assistance of lashings. The + crew were now so worn down by famine and thirst, that the captain saw it + would be impossible for them to withstand the breaking of the sea, when + the ship should ground; he deemed the only chance for their lives, + therefore, was to get to land in the canoes, and stand ready to receive + and protect the wreck when she should drift ashore. Accordingly, they all + got safe to land, but had scarcely touched the beach when they were + surrounded by the natives, who stripped them almost naked. The name of + this inhospitable island was Tahoorowa. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the night, the wreck came drifting to the strand, with + the surf thundering around her, and shortly afterwards bilged. On the + following morning, numerous casks of provisions floated on shore. The + natives staved them for the sake of the iron hoops, but would not allow + the crew to help themselves to the contents, or to go on board of the + wreck. + </p> + <p> + As the crew were in want of everything, and as it might be a long time + before any opportunity occurred for them to get away from these islands, + Mr. Ogden, as soon as he could get a chance, made his way to the island of + Owyhee, and endeavored to make some arrangement with the king for the + relief of his companions in misfortune. + </p> + <p> + The illustrious Tamaahmaah, as we have shown on a former occasion, was a + shrewd bargainer, and in the present instance proved himself an + experienced wrecker. His negotiations with M’Dougal, and the other “Eris + of the great American Fur Company,” had but little effect on present + circumstances, and he proceeded to avail himself of their misfortunes. He + agreed to furnish the crew with provisions during their stay in his + territories, and to return to them all their clothing that could be found, + but he stipulated that the wreck should be abandoned to him as a waif cast + by fortune on his shores. With these conditions Mr. Ogden was fain to + comply. Upon this the great Tamaahmaah deputed his favorite, John Young, + the tarpaulin governor of Owyhee, to proceed with a number of royal + guards, and take possession of the wreck on behalf of the crown. This was + done accordingly, and the property and crew were removed to Owyhee. The + royal bounty appears to have been but scanty in its dispensations. The + crew fared but meagerly; though, on reading the journal of the voyage, it + is singular to find them, after all the hardships they had suffered, so + sensitive about petty inconveniences, as to exclaim against the king as a + “savage monster,” for refusing them a “pot to cook in,” and denying Mr. + Ogden the use of a knife and fork which had been saved from the wreck. + </p> + <p> + Such was the unfortunate catastrophe of the Lark; had she reached her + destination in safety, affairs at Astoria might have taken a different + course. A strange fatality seems to have attended all the expeditions by + sea, nor were those by land much less disastrous. + </p> + <p> + Captain Northrop was still at the Sandwich Islands, on December 20th, when + Mr. Hunt arrived. The latter immediately purchased, for ten thousand + dollars, a brig called the Pedler, and put Captain Northrop in command of + her. They set sail for Astoria on the 22d January, intending to remove the + property from thence as speedily as possible to the Russian settlements on + the northwest coast, to prevent it from falling into the hands of the + British. Such were the orders of Mr. Astor, sent out by the Lark. + </p> + <p> + We will now leave Mr. Hunt on his voyage, and return to see what has taken + place at Astoria during his absence. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0060" id="link2HCH0060"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LIX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Arrival of M’Tavish at Astoria.—Conduct of His Followers.— + Negotiations of M’Dougal and M’Tavish.—Bargain for the + Transfer of Astoria—Doubts Entertained of the Loyalty of + M’Dougal. +</pre> + <p> + ON the 2d of October, about five weeks after Mr. Hunt had sailed in the + Albatross from Astoria, Mr. M’Kenzie set off with two canoes, and twelve + men, for the posts of Messrs. Stuart and Clarke, to appraise them of the + new arrangements determined upon in the recent conference of the partners + at the factory. + </p> + <p> + He had not ascended the river a hundred miles, when he met a squadron of + ten canoes, sweeping merrily down under British colors, the Canadian + oarsmen, as usual, in full song. + </p> + <p> + It was an armament fitted out by M’Tavish, who had with him Mr. J. Stuart, + another partner of the Northwest Company, together with some clerks, and + sixty-eight men—seventy-five souls in all. They had heard of the + frigate Phoebe and the Isaac Todd being on the high seas, and were on + their way down to await their arrival. In one of the canoes Mr. Clarke + came as a passenger, the alarming intelligence having brought him down + from his post on the Spokan. Mr. M’Kenzie immediately determined to return + with him to Astoria, and, veering about, the two parties encamped together + for the night. The leaders, of course, observed a due decorum, but some of + the subalterns could not restrain their chuckling exultation, boasting + that they would soon plant the British standard on the walls of Astoria, + and drive the Americans out of the country. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the evening, Mr. M’Kenzie had a secret conference with + Mr. Clarke, in which they agreed to set off privately before daylight, and + get down in time to appraise M’Dougal of the approach of these + Northwesters. The latter, however, were completely on the alert; just as + M’Kenzie’s canoes were about to push off, they were joined by a couple + from the Northwest squadron, in which was M’Tavish, with two clerks, and + eleven men. With these, he intended to push forward and make arrangements, + leaving the rest of the convoy, in which was a large quantity of furs, to + await his orders. + </p> + <p> + The two parties arrived at Astoria on the 7th of October. The Northwesters + encamped under the guns of the fort, and displayed the British colors. The + young men in the fort, natives of the United States, were on the point of + hoisting the American flag, but were forbidden by Mr. M’Dougal. They were + astonished at such a prohibition, and were exceedingly galled by the tone + and manner assumed by the clerks and retainers of the Northwest Company, + who ruffled about in that swelling and braggart style which grows up among + these heroes of the wilderness; they, in fact, considered themselves lords + of the ascendant and regarded the hampered and harassed Astorians as a + conquered people. + </p> + <p> + On the following day M’Dougal convened the clerks, and read to them an + extract from a letter from his uncle, Mr. Angus Shaw, one of the principal + partners of the Northwest Company, announcing the coming of the Phoebe and + Isaac Todd, “to take and destroy everything American on the northwest + coast.” + </p> + <p> + This intelligence was received without dismay by such of the clerks as + were natives of the United States. They had felt indignant at seeing their + national flag struck by a Canadian commander, and the British flag flowed, + as it were, in their faces. They had been stung to the quick, also, by the + vaunting airs assumed by the Northwesters. In this mood of mind, they + would willingly have nailed their colors to the staff, and defied the + frigate. She could not come within many miles of the fort, they observed, + and any boats she might send could be destroyed by their cannon. + </p> + <p> + There were cooler and more calculating spirits, however, who had the + control of affairs, and felt nothing of the patriotic pride and + indignation of these youths. The extract of the letter had, apparently, + been read by M’Dougal, merely to prepare the way for a preconcerted stroke + of management. On the same day Mr. M’Tavish proposed to purchase the whole + stock of goods and furs belonging to the company, both at Astoria and in + the interior, at cost and charges. Mr. M’Dougal undertook to comply; + assuming the whole management of the negotiation in virtue of the power + vested in him, in case of the non-arrival of Mr. Hunt. That power, + however, was limited and specific, and did not extend to an operation of + this nature and extent; no objection, however, was made to his assumption, + and he and M’Tavish soon made a preliminary arrangement, perfectly + satisfactory to the latter. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Stuart, and the reserve party of Northwesters, arrived shortly + afterwards, and encamped with M’Tavish. The former exclaimed loudly + against the terms of the arrangement, and insisted upon a reduction of the + prices. New negotiations had now to be entered into. The demands of the + Northwesters were made in a peremptory tone, and they seemed disposed to + dictate like conquerors. The Americans looked on with indignation and + impatience. They considered M’Dougal as acting, if not a perfidious, + certainly a craven part. He was continually repairing to the camp to + negotiate, instead of keeping within his walls and receiving overtures in + his fortress. His case, they observed, was not so desperate as to excuse + such crouching. He might, in fact, hold out for his own terms. The + Northwest party had lost their ammunition; they had no goods to trade with + the natives for provisions; and they were so destitute that M’Dougal had + absolutely to feed them, while he negotiated with them. He, on the + contrary, was well lodged and victualled; had sixty men, with arms, + ammunition, boats, and everything requisite either for defense or retreat. + The party, beneath the guns of his fort, were at his mercy; should an + enemy appear in the offing, he could pack up the most valuable part of the + property and retire to some place of concealment, or make off for the + interior. + </p> + <p> + These considerations, however, had no weight with Mr. M’Dougal, or were + overruled by other motives. The terms of sale were lowered by him to the + standard fixed by Mr. Stuart, and an agreement executed on the 16th of + October, by which the furs and merchandise of all kinds in the country, + belonging to Mr. Astor, passed into the possession of the Northwest + Company at about a third of their value. * A safe passage through the + Northwest posts was guaranteed to such as did not choose to enter into the + service of that Company, and the amount of wages due to them was to be + deducted from the price paid for Astoria. + </p> + <p> + The conduct and motives of Mr. M’Dougal, throughout the whole of this + proceeding, have been strongly questioned by the other partners. He has + been accused of availing himself of a wrong construction of powers vested + in him at his own request, and of sacrificing the interests of Mr. Astor + to the Northwest Company, under the promise or hope of advantage to + himself. + </p> + <p> + He always insisted, however, that he made the best bargain for Mr. Astor + that circumstances would permit; the frigate being hourly expected, in + which case the whole property of that gentleman would be liable to + capture. That the return of Mr. Hunt was problematical; the frigate + intending to cruise along the coast for two years, and clear it of all + American vessels. He moreover averred, and M’Tavish corroborated his + averment by certificate, that he proposed an arrangement to that + gentleman, by which the furs were to be sent to Canton, and sold there at + Mr. Astor’s risk, and for his account; but the proposition was not acceded + to. + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding all his representations, several of the persons present at + the transaction, and acquainted with the whole course of the affair, and + among the number Mr. M’Kenzie himself, his occasional coadjutor, remained + firm in the belief that he had acted a hollow part. Neither did he succeed + in exculpating himself to Mr. Astor; that gentleman declaring, in a letter + written some time afterwards, to Mr. Hunt, that he considered the property + virtually given away. “Had our place and our property,” he adds, “been + fairly captured, I should have preferred it; I should not feel as if I + were disgraced.” + </p> + <p> + All these may be unmerited suspicions; but it certainly is a circumstance + strongly corroborative of them, that Mr. M’Dougal, shortly after + concluding this agreement, became a member of the Northwest Company, and + received a share productive of a handsome income. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * Not quite $40,000 were allowed for furs worth upwards of + $100,000. Beaver was valued at two dollars per skin, though + worth five dollars. Land otter at fifty cents, though worth + five dollars. Sea-otter at twelve dollars, worth from forty- + five to sixty dollars; and for several kinds of furs nothing + was allowed. Moreover, the goods and merchandise for the + Indian trade ought to have brought three times the amount + for which they were sold. +</pre> + <p> + The following estimate has been made of the articles on hand, and the + prices: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + 17,705 lbs. beaver parchment, valued at $2.00 worth $5.00 + 465 old coat beaver, valued at 1.66 worth 3.50 + + 907 land otter, valued at.50 worth 5.00 + 68 sea-otter, valued at 12.00 worth 45 to 60.00 + 30 sea-otter, valued at 5.00 worth 25.00 + + Nothing was allowed for + 179 mink skins, worth each.40 + 22 raccoon, worth each.40 + 28 lynx, worth each 2.00 + 18 fox, worth each 1.00 + 106 fox, worth each 1.50 + 71 black bear, worth each 4.00 + 16 grizzly bear, worth each 10.00 +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0061" id="link2HCH0061"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LX. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Arrival of a Strange Sail.—Agitation at Astoria.—Warlike + Offer of Comcomly.—Astoria Taken Possession of by the + British.—Indignation of Comcomly at the Conduct of His Son- + in-Law. +</pre> + <p> + ON the morning of the 30th of November, a sail was descried doubling Cape + Disappointment. It came to anchor in Baker’s Bay, and proved to be a ship + of war. Of what nation? was now the anxious inquiry. If English, why did + it come alone? where was the merchant vessel that was to have accompanied + it? If American, what was to become of the newly acquired possession of + the Northwest Company? + </p> + <p> + In this dilemma, M’Tavish, in all haste, loaded two barges with all the + packages of furs bearing the mark of the Northwest Company, and made off + for Tongue Point, three miles up the river. There he was to await a + preconcerted signal from M’Dougal, on ascertaining the character of the + ship. If it should prove American, M’Tavish would have a fair start, and + could bear off his rich cargo to the interior. It is singular that this + prompt mode of conveying valuable, but easily transportable effects beyond + the reach of a hostile ship should not have suggested itself while the + property belonged to Mr. Astor. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, M’Dougal, who still remained nominal chief at the fort, + launched a canoe, manned by men recently in the employ of the American Fur + Company, and steered for the ship. On the way, he instructed his men to + pass themselves for Americans or Englishmen, according to the exigencies + of the case. + </p> + <p> + The vessel proved to be the British sloop of war Raccoon, of twenty-six + guns, and one hundred and twenty men, commanded by Captain Black. + According to the account of that officer, the frigate Phoebe, and two + sloops of war Cherub and Raccoon, had sailed in convoy of the Isaac Todd + from Rio Janeiro. On board of the Phoebe, Mr. John M’Donald, a partner of + the Northwest Company, embarked as passenger, to profit by the anticipated + catastrophe at Astoria. The convoy was separated by stress of weather off + Cape Horn. The three ships of war came together again at the island of + Juan Fernandez, their appointed rendezvous, but waited in vain for the + Isaac Todd. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, intelligence was received of the mischief that Commodore + Porter was doing among the British whale ships. Commodore Hillyer + immediately set sail in quest of him with the Phoebe and the Cherub, + transferring Mr. M’Donald to the Raccoon, and ordered that vessel to + proceed to the Columbia. + </p> + <p> + The officers of the Raccoon were in high spirits. The agents of the + Northwest Company, in instigating the expedition, had talked of immense + booty to be made by the fortunate captors of Astoria. Mr. M’Donald had + kept up the excitement during the voyage, so that not a midshipman but + revelled in dreams of ample prize-money, nor a lieutenant that would have + sold his chance for a thousand pounds. Their disappointment, therefore, + may easily be conceived, when they learned that their warlike attack upon + Astoria had been forestalled by a snug commercial arrangement; that their + anticipated booty had become British property in the regular course of + traffic, and that all this had been effected by the very Company which had + been instrumental in getting them sent on what they now stigmatized as a + fool’s errand. They felt as if they had been duped and made tools of, by a + set of shrewd men of traffic, who had employed them to crack the nut, + while they carried off the kernel. In a word, M’Dougal found himself so + ungraciously received by his countrymen on board of the ship, that he was + glad to cut short his visit, and return to shore. He was busy at the fort, + making preparations for the reception of the captain of the Raccoon, when + his one-eyed Indian father-in-law made his appearance, with a train of + Chinook warriors, all painted and equipped in warlike style. + </p> + <p> + Old Comcomly had beheld, with dismay, the arrival of a “big war canoe” + displaying the British flag. The shrewd old savage had become something of + a politician in the course of his daily visits at the fort. He knew of the + war existing between the nations, but knew nothing of the arrangement + between M’Dougal and M’Tavish. He trembled, therefore, for the power of + his white son-in-law, and the new-fledged grandeur of his daughter, and + assembled his warriors in all haste. “King George,” said he, “has sent his + great canoe to destroy the fort, and make slaves of all the inhabitants. + Shall we suffer it? The Americans are the first white men that have fixed + themselves in the land. They have treated us like brothers. Their great + chief has taken my daughter to be his squaw: we are, therefore, as one + people.” + </p> + <p> + His warriors all determined to stand by the Americans to the last, and to + this effect they came painted and armed for battle. Comcomly made a + spirited war-speech to his son-in-law. He offered to kill every one of + King George’s men that should attempt to land. It was an easy matter. The + ship could not approach within six miles of the fort; the crew could only + land in boats. The woods reached to the water’s edge; in these, he and his + warriors would conceal themselves, and shoot down the enemy as fast as + they put foot on shore. + </p> + <p> + M’Dougal was, doubtless, properly sensible of this parental devotion on + the part of his savage father-in-law, and perhaps a little rebuked by the + game spirit, so opposite to his own. He assured Comcomly, however, that + his solicitude for the safety of himself and the princess was superfluous; + as, though the ship belonged to King George, her crew would not injure the + Americans, or their Indian allies. He advised him and his warriors, + therefore, to lay aside their weapons and war shirts, wash off the paint + from their faces and bodies, and appear like clean and civil savages, to + receive the strangers courteously. + </p> + <p> + Comcomly was sorely puzzled at this advice, which accorded so little with + his Indian notions of receiving a hostile nation, and it was only after + repeated and positive assurances of the amicable intentions of the + strangers that he was induced to lower his fighting tone. He said + something to his warriors explanatory of this singular posture of affairs, + and in vindication, perhaps, of the pacific temper of his son-in-law. They + all gave a shrug and an Indian grunt of acquiescence, and went off sulkily + to their village, to lay aside their weapons for the present. + </p> + <p> + The proper arrangements being made for the reception of Captain Black, + that officer caused his ship’s boats to be manned, and landed with + befitting state at Astoria. From the talk that had been made by the + Northwest Company of the strength of the place, and the armament they had + required to assist in its reduction, he expected to find a fortress of + some importance. When he beheld nothing but stockades and bastions, + calculated for defense against naked savages, he felt an emotion of + indignant surprise, mingled with something of the ludicrous. “Is this the + fort,” cried he, “about which I have heard so much talking? D-n me, but + I’d batter it down in two hours with a four pounder!” + </p> + <p> + When he learned, however, the amount of rich furs that had been passed + into the hands of the Northwesters, he was outrageous, and insisted that + an inventory should be taken of all the property purchased of the + Americans, “with a view to ulterior measures in England, for the recovery + of the value from the Northwest Company.” + </p> + <p> + As he grew cool, however, he gave over all idea of preferring such a + claim, and reconciled himself, as well as he could, to the idea of having + been forestalled by his bargaining coadjutors. + </p> + <p> + On the 12th of December, the fate of Astoria was consummated by a regular + ceremonial. Captain Black, attended by his officers, entered the fort, + caused the British standard to be erected, broke a bottle of wine and + declared, in a loud voice, that he took possession of the establishment + and of the country, in the name of his Britannic Majesty, changing the + name of Astoria to that of Fort George. + </p> + <p> + The Indian warriors, who had offered their services to repel the + strangers, were present on this occasion. It was explained to them as + being a friendly arrangement and transfer, but they shook their heads + grimly, and considered it an act of subjugation of their ancient allies. + They regretted that they had complied with M’Dougal’s wishes, in laying + aside their arms, and remarked, that, however the Americans might conceal + the fact, they were undoubtedly all slaves; nor could they be persuaded of + the contrary, until they beheld the Raccoon depart without taking away any + prisoners. + </p> + <p> + As to Comcomly, he no longer prided himself upon his white son-in-law, + but, whenever he was asked about him, shook his head, and replied, that + his daughter had made a mistake, and, instead of getting a great warrior + for a husband, had married herself to a squaw. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0062" id="link2HCH0062"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER LXI. + </h2> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Arrival of the Brig Pedler at Astoria.—Breaking Up of the + Establishment.—Departure of Several of the Company.— + Tragical Story Told by the Squaw of Pierre Dorion.—Fate of + Reed and His Companions.—Attempts of Mr. Astor to Renew + His Enterprise.-Disappointment.—Concluding Observations + and Reflection. +</pre> + <p> + HAVING given the catastrophe at the Fort of Astoria, it remains now but to + gather up a few loose ends of this widely excursive narrative and + conclude. On the 28th of February the brig Pedler anchored in Columbia + River. It will be recollected that Mr. Hunt had purchased this vessel at + the Sandwich Islands, to take off the furs collected at the factory, and + to restore the Sandwich Islanders to their homes. When that gentleman + learned, however, the precipitate and summary manner in which the property + had been bargained away by M’Dougal, he expressed his indignation in the + strongest terms, and determined to make an effort to get back the furs. As + soon as his wishes were known in this respect, M’Dougal came to sound him + on behalf of the Northwest Company, intimating that he had no doubt the + peltries might be repurchased at an advance of fifty per cent. This + overture was not calculated to soothe the angry feelings of Mr. Hunt, and + his indignation was complete, when he discovered that M’Dougal had become + a partner of the Northwest Company, and had actually been so since the 23d + of December. He had kept his partnership a secret, however; had retained + the papers of the Pacific Fur Company in his possession; and had continued + to act as Mr. Astor’s agent, though two of the partners of the other + company, Mr. M’Kenzie and Mr. Clarke, were present. He had, moreover, + divulged to his new associates all that he knew as to Mr. Astor’s plans + and affairs, and had made copies of his business letters for their + perusal. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Hunt now considered the whole conduct of M’Dougal hollow and + collusive. His only thought was, therefore, to get all the papers of the + concern out of his hands, and bring the business to a close; for the + interests of Mr. Astor were yet completely at stake; the drafts of the + Northwest Company in his favor, for the purchase money, not having yet + been obtained. With some difficulty he succeeded in getting possession of + the papers. The bills or drafts were delivered without hesitation. The + latter he remitted to Mr. Astor by some of his associates, who were about + to cross the continent to New York. This done, he embarked on board the + Pedler, on the 3d of April, accompanied by two of the clerks, Mr. Seton + and Mr. Halsey, and bade a final adieu to Astoria. + </p> + <p> + The next day, April 4th, Messrs. Clarke, M’Kenzie, David Stuart, and such + of the Astorians as had not entered into the service of the Northwest + Company, set out to cross the Rocky Mountains. It is not our intention to + take the reader another journey across those rugged barriers; but we will + step forward with the travellers to a distance on their way, merely to + relate their interview with a character already noted in this work. + </p> + <p> + As the party were proceeding up the Columbia, near the mouth of the + Wallah-Wallah River, several Indian canoes put off from the shore to + overtake them, and a voice called upon them in French and requested them + to stop. They accordingly put to shore, and were joined by those in the + canoes. To their surprise, they recognized in the person who had hailed + them the Indian wife of Pierre Dorion, accompanied by her two children. + She had a story to tell, involving the fate of several of our unfortunate + adventurers. + </p> + <p> + Mr. John Reed, the Hibernian, it will be remembered, had been detached + during the summer to the Snake River. His party consisted of four + Canadians, Giles Le Clerc, Francois Landry, Jean Baptiste Turcot, and + Andre La Chapelle, together with two hunters, Pierre Dorion and Pierre + Delaunay; Dorion, as usual, being accompanied by his wife and children. + The objects of this expedition were twofold: to trap beaver, and to search + for the three hunters, Robinson, Hoback, and Rezner. + </p> + <p> + In the course of the autumn, Reed lost one man, Landry, by death; another + one, Pierre Delaunay, who was of a sullen, perverse disposition, left him + in a moody fit, and was never heard of afterwards. The number of his party + was not, however, reduced by these losses, as the three hunters, Robinson, + Hoback, and Rezner, had joined it. + </p> + <p> + Reed now built a house on the Snake River, for their winter quarters; + which being completed, the party set about trapping. Rezner, Le Clerc, and + Pierre Dorion went about five days’ journey from the wintering house, to a + part of the country well stocked with beaver. Here they put up a hut, and + proceeded to trap with great success. While the men were out hunting, + Pierre Dorion’s wife remained at home to dress the skins and prepare the + meals. She was thus employed one evening about the beginning of January, + cooking the supper of the hunters, when she heard footsteps, and Le Clerc + staggered, pale and bleeding, into the hut. He informed her that a party + of savages had surprised them, while at their traps, and had killed Rezner + and her husband. He had barely strength left to give this information, + when he sank upon the ground. + </p> + <p> + The poor woman saw that the only chance for life was instant flight, but, + in this exigency, showed that presence of mind and force of character for + which she had frequently been noted. With great difficulty, she caught two + of the horses belonging to the party. Then collecting her clothes and a + small quantity of beaver meat and dried salmon, she packed them upon one + of the horses, and helped the wounded man to mount upon it. On the other + horse she mounted with her two children, and hurried away from this + dangerous neighborhood, directing her flight to Mr. Reed’s establishment. + On the third day, she descried a number of Indians on horseback proceeding + in an easterly direction. She immediately dismounted with her children, + and helped Le Clerc likewise to dismount, and all concealed themselves. + Fortunately they escaped the sharp eyes of the savages, but had to proceed + with the utmost caution. That night they slept without fire or water; she + managed to keep her children warm in her arms; but before morning, poor Le + Clerc died. + </p> + <p> + With the dawn of day the resolute woman resumed her course, and, on the + fourth day, reached the house of Mr. Reed. It was deserted, and all round + were marks of blood and signs of a furious massacre. Not doubting that Mr. + Reed and his party had all fallen victims, she turned in fresh horror from + the spot. For two days she continued hurrying forward, ready to sink for + want of food, but more solicitous about her children than herself. At + length she reached a range of the Rocky Mountains, near the upper part of + the Wallah-Wallah River. Here she chose a wild lonely ravine, as her place + of winter refuge. + </p> + <p> + She had fortunately a buffalo robe and three deer-skins; of these, and of + pine bark and cedar branches, she constructed a rude wigwam, which she + pitched beside a mountain spring. Having no other food, she killed the two + horses, and smoked their flesh. The skins aided to cover her hut. Here she + dragged out the winter, with no other company than her two children. + Towards the middle of March her provisions were nearly exhausted. She + therefore packed up the remainder, slung it on her back, and, with her + helpless little ones, set out again on her wanderings. Crossing the ridge + of mountains, she descended to the banks of the Wallah-Wallah, and kept + along them until she arrived where that river throws itself into the + Columbia. She was hospitably received and entertained by the + Wallah-Wallahs, and had been nearly two weeks among them when the two + canoes passed. + </p> + <p> + On being interrogated, she could assign no reason for this murderous + attack of the savages; it appeared to be perfectly wanton and unprovoked. + Some of the Astorians supposed it an act of butchery by a roving band of + Blackfeet; others, however, and with greater probability of correctness, + have ascribed it to the tribe of Pierced-nose Indians, in revenge for the + death of their comrade hanged by order of Mr. Clarke. If so, it shows that + these sudden and apparently wanton outbreakings of sanguinary violence on + the part of the savages have often some previous, though perhaps remote, + provocation. + </p> + <p> + The narrative of the Indian woman closes the checkered adventures of some + of the personages of this motley story; such as the honest Hibernian Reed, + and Dorion the hybrid interpreter. Turcot and La Chapelle were two of the + men who fell off from Mr. Crooks in the course of his wintry journey, and + had subsequently such disastrous times among the Indians. We cannot but + feel some sympathy with that persevering trio of Kentuckians, Robinson, + Rezner, and Hoback, who twice turned back when on their way homeward, and + lingered in the wilderness to perish by the hands of savages. + </p> + <p> + The return parties from Astoria, both by sea and land, experienced on the + way as many adventures, vicissitudes, and mishaps, as the far-famed heroes + of the Odyssey; they reached their destination at different times, bearing + tidings to Mr. Astor of the unfortunate termination of his enterprise. + </p> + <p> + That gentleman, however, was not disposed, even yet, to give the matter up + as lost. On the contrary, his spirit was roused by what he considered + ungenerous and unmerited conduct on the part of the Northwest Company. + “After their treatment of me,” said he, in a letter to Mr. Hunt, “I have + no idea of remaining quiet and idle.” He determined, therefore, as soon as + circumstances would permit, to resume his enterprise. + </p> + <p> + At the return of peace, Astoria, with the adjacent country, reverted to + the United States by the treaty of Ghent, on the principle of status ante + bellum, and Captain Biddle was despatched in the sloop of war, Ontario, to + take formal possession. + </p> + <p> + In the winter of 1815, a law was passed by Congress prohibiting all + traffic of British traders within the territories of the United States. + </p> + <p> + The favorable moment seemed now to Mr. Astor to have arrived for the + revival of his favorite enterprise, but new difficulties had grown up to + impede it. The Northwest Company were now in complete occupation of the + Columbia River, and its chief tributary streams, holding the posts which + he had established, and carrying on a trade throughout the neighboring + region, in defiance of the prohibitory law of Congress, which, in effect, + was a dead letter beyond the mountains. + </p> + <p> + To dispossess them would be an undertaking of almost a belligerent nature; + for their agents and retainers were well armed, and skilled in the use of + weapons, as is usual with Indian traders. The ferocious and bloody + contests which had taken place between the rival trading parties of the + Northwest and Hudson’s Bay Companies had shown what might be expected from + commercial feuds in the lawless depths of the wilderness. Mr. Astor did + not think it advisable, therefore, to attempt the matter without the + protection of the American flag; under which his people might rally in + case of need. He accordingly made an informal overture to the President of + the United States, Mr. Madison, through Mr. Gallatin, offering to renew + his enterprise, and to reestablish Astoria, provided it would be protected + by the American flag, and made a military post; stating that the whole + force required would not exceed a lieutenant’s command. + </p> + <p> + The application, approved and recommended by Mr. Gallatin, one of the most + enlightened statesmen of our country, was favorably received, but no step + was taken in consequence; the President not being disposed, in all + probability, to commit himself by any direct countenance or overt act. + Discouraged by this supineness on the part of the government, Mr. Astor + did not think fit to renew his overtures in a more formal manner, and the + favorable moment for the re-occupation of Astoria was suffered to pass + unimproved. + </p> + <p> + The British trading establishments were thus enabled, without molestation, + to strike deep their roots, and extend their ramifications, in despite of + the prohibition of Congress, until they had spread themselves over the + rich field of enterprise opened by Mr. Astor. The British government soon + began to perceive the importance of this region, and to desire to include + it within their territorial domains. A question has consequently risen as + to the right to the soil, and has become one of the most perplexing now + open between the United States and Great Britain. In the first treaty + relative to it, under date of October 20th, 1818, the question was left + unsettled, and it was agreed that the country on the northwest coast of + America, westward of the Rocky Mountains, claimed by either nation, should + be open to the inhabitants of both for ten years, for the purpose of + trade, with the equal right of navigating all its rivers. When these ten + years had expired, a subsequent treaty, in 1828, extended the arrangement + to ten additional years. So the matter stands at present. + </p> + <p> + On casting back our eyes over the series of events we have recorded, we + see no reason to attribute the failure of this great commercial + undertaking to any fault in the scheme, or omission in the execution of + it, on the part of the projector. It was a magnificent enterprise; well + concerted and carried on, without regard to difficulties or expense. A + succession of adverse circumstances and cross purposes, however, beset it + almost from the outset; some of them, in fact, arising from neglect of the + orders and instructions of Mr. Astor. The first crippling blow was the + loss of the Tonquin, which clearly would not have happened, had Mr. + Astor’s earnest injunctions with regard to the natives been attended to. + Had this ship performed her voyage prosperously, and revisited Astoria in + due time, the trade of the establishment would have taken its preconcerted + course, and the spirits of all concerned been kept up by a confident + prospect of success. Her dismal catastrophe struck a chill into every + heart, and prepared the way for subsequent despondency. + </p> + <p> + Another cause of embarrassment and loss was the departure from the plan of + Mr. Astor, as to the voyage of the Beaver, subsequent to her visiting + Astoria. The variation from this plan produced a series of cross purposes, + disastrous to the establishment, and detained Mr. Hunt absent from his + post, when his presence there was of vital importance to the enterprise; + so essential is it for an agent, in any great and complicated undertaking, + to execute faithfully, and to the letter, the part marked out for him by + the master mind which has concerted the whole. + </p> + <p> + The breaking out of the war between the United States and Great Britain + multiplied the hazards and embarrassments of the enterprise. The + disappointment as to convoy rendered it difficult to keep up + reinforcements and supplies; and the loss of the Lark added to the tissue + of misadventures. + </p> + <p> + That Mr. Astor battled resolutely against every difficulty, and pursued + his course in defiance of every loss, has been sufficiently shown. Had he + been seconded by suitable agents, and properly protected by government, + the ultimate failure of his plan might yet have been averted. It was his + great misfortune that his agents were not imbued with his own spirit. Some + had not capacity sufficient to comprehend the real nature and extent of + his scheme; others were alien in feeling and interest, and had been + brought up in the service of a rival company. Whatever sympathies they + might originally have had with him, were impaired, if not destroyed, by + the war. They looked upon his cause as desperate, and only considered how + they might make interest to regain a situation under their former + employers. The absence of Mr. Hunt, the only real representative of Mr. + Astor, at the time of the capitulation with the Northwest Company, + completed the series of cross purposes. Had that gentleman been present, + the transfer, in all probability, would not have taken place. + </p> + <p> + It is painful, at all times, to see a grand and beneficial stroke of + genius fall of its aim: but we regret the failure of this enterprise in a + national point of view; for, had it been crowned with success, it would + have redounded greatly to the advantage and extension of our commerce. The + profits drawn from the country in question by the British Fur Company, + though of ample amount, form no criterion by which to judge of the + advantages that would have arisen had it been entirely in the hands of the + citizens of the United States. That company, as has been shown, is limited + in the nature and scope of its operations, and can make but little use of + the maritime facilities held out by an emporium and a harbor on that + coast. In our hands, besides the roving bands of trappers and traders, the + country would have been explored and settled by industrious husbandmen; + and the fertile valleys bordering its rivers, and shut up among its + mountains, would have been made to pour forth their agricultural treasures + to contribute to the general wealth. + </p> + <p> + In respect to commerce, we should have had a line of trading posts from + the Mississippi and the Missouri across the Rocky Mountains, forming a + high road from the great regions of the west to the shores of the Pacific. + We should have had a fortified post and port at the mouth of the Columbia, + commanding the trade of that river and its tributaries, and of a wide + extent of country and sea-coast; carrying on an active and profitable + commerce with the Sandwich Islands, and a direct and frequent + communication with China. In a word, Astoria might have realized the + anticipations of Mr. Astor, so well understood and appreciated by Mr. + Jefferson, in gradually becoming a commercial empire beyond the mountains, + peopled by “free and independent Americans, and linked with us by ties of + blood and interest.” + </p> + <p> + We repeat, therefore, our sincere regret that our government should have + neglected the overture of Mr. Astor, and suffered the moment to pass by, + when full possession of this region might have been taken quietly, as a + matter of course, and a military post established, without dispute, at + Astoria. Our statesmen have become sensible, when too late, of the + importance of this measure. Bills have repeatedly been brought into + Congress for the purpose, but without success; and our rightful + possessions on that coast, as well as our trade on the Pacific, have no + rallying point protected by the national flag, and by a military force. + </p> + <p> + In the meantime, the second period of ten years is fast elapsing. In 1838, + the question of title will again come up, and most probably, in the + present amicable state of our relations with Great Britain, will be again + postponed. Every year, however, the litigated claim is growing in + importance. There is no pride so jealous and irritable as the pride of + territory. As one wave of emigration after another rolls into the vast + regions of the west, and our settlements stretch towards the Rocky + Mountains, the eager eyes of our pioneers will pry beyond, and they will + become impatient of any barrier or impediment in the way of what they + consider a grand outlet of our empire. Should any circumstance, therefore, + unfortunately occur to disturb the present harmony of the two nations, + this ill-adjusted question, which now lies dormant, may suddenly start up + into one of belligerent import, and Astoria become the watchword in a + contest for dominion on the shores of the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + Since the above was written, the question of dominion over the vast + territory beyond the Rocky Mountains, which for a time threatened to + disturb the peaceful relations with our transatlantic kindred, has been + finally settled in a spirit of mutual concession, and the venerable + projector whose early enterprise forms the subject of this work had the + satisfaction of knowing, ere his eyes closed upon the world, that the flag + of his country again waved over “ASTORIA.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_APPE" id="link2H_APPE"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + APPENDIX + </h2> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0066" id="link2H_4_0066"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Draught of a Petition to Congress, sent by Mr. Astor in 1812. + </h2> + <p> + To the honorable the Senate and House of Representatives of the United + States, in Congress assembled, + </p> + <p> + The petition of the American Fur Company respectfully showeth: + </p> + <p> + THAT the trade with the several Indian tribes of North America has, for + many years past, been almost exclusively carried on by the merchants of + Canada; who, having formed powerful and extensive associations for that + purpose, being aided by British capital, and being encouraged by the favor + and protection of the British government, could not be opposed, with any + prospect of success by individuals of the United States. + </p> + <p> + That by means of the above trade, thus systematically pursued, not only + the inhabitants of the United States have been deprived of commercial + profits and advantages, to which they appear to have just and natural + pretensions, but a great and dangerous influence has been established over + the Indian tribes, difficult to be counteracted, and capable of being + exerted at critical periods, to the great injury and annoyance of our + frontier settlements. + </p> + <p> + That in order to obtain at least a part of the above trade, and more + particularly that which is within the boundaries of the United States, + your petitioners, in the year 1808, obtained an act of incorporation from + the State of New York, whereby they are enabled, with a competent capital, + to carry on the said trade with the Indians in such a manner as may be + conformable to the laws and regulations of the United States, in relation + to such a commerce. + </p> + <p> + That the capital mentioned in the said act, amounting to one million of + dollars, having been duly formed, your petitioners entered with zeal and + alacrity into those large and important arrangements, which were necessary + for, or conducive to the object of their incorporation; and, among other + things, purchased a great part of the stock in trade, and trading + establishments, of the Michilimackinac Company of Canada. Your petitioners + also, with the expectation of great public and private advantages from the + use of the said establishments, ordered, during the spring and summer of + 1810, an assortment of goods from England, suitable for the Indian trade; + which, in consequence of the President’s proclamation of November of that + year, were shipped to Canada instead of New York, and have been + transported, under a very heavy expense, into the interior of the country. + But as they could not legally be brought into the Indian country within + the boundaries of the United States, they have been stored on the Island + of St. Joseph, in Lake Huron, where they now remain. + </p> + <p> + Your petitioners, with great deference and implicit submission to the + wisdom of the national legislature, beg leave to suggest for + consideration, whether they have not some claim to national attention and + encouragement, from the nature and importance of their undertaking; which + though hazardous and uncertain as concerns their private emolument, must, + at any rate, redound to the public security and advantage. If their + undertaking shall appear to be of the description given, they would + further suggest to your honorable bodies, that unless they can procure a + regular supply for the trade in which they are engaged, it may languish, + and be finally abandoned by American citizens; when it will revert to its + former channel, with additional, and perhaps with irresistible, power. + </p> + <p> + Under these circumstances, and upon all those considerations of public + policy which will present themselves to your honorable bodies, in + connection with those already mentioned, your petitioners respectfully + pray that a law may be passed to enable the President, or any of the heads + of departments acting under his authority, to grant permits for the + introduction of goods necessary for the supply of the Indians, into the + Indian country that is within the boundaries of the United States, under + such regulations, and with such restrictions, as may secure the public + revenue and promote the public welfare. + </p> + <p> + And your petitioners shall ever pray, &c. + </p> + <p> + In witness whereof, the common seal of the American Fur Company is + </p> + <p> + hereunto affixed, the day of March, 1812. + </p> + <p> + By order of the Corporation. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0067" id="link2H_4_0067"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + AN ACT to enable the American Fur Company, + </h2> + <p> + and other citizens, to introduce goods necessary for the Indian trade into + the territories within the boundaries of the United State. + </p> + <p> + WHEREAS, the public peace and welfare require that the native Indian + tribes, residing within the boundaries of the United States, should + receive their necessary supplies under the authority and from the citizens + of the United States: Therefore, be it enacted by the Senate and House of + Representatives of the United States, in Congress assembled, that it shall + be lawful for the President of the United States, or any of the heads of + departments thereunto by him duly authorized, from time to time to grant + permits to the American Fur Company, their agents or factors, or any other + citizens of the United States engaged in the Indian trade, to introduce + into the Indian country, within the boundaries of the United States, such + goods, wares, and merchandise, as may be necessary for the said trade, + under such regulations and restrictions as the said President or heads of + departments may judge proper; any law or regulation to the contrary, in + anywise, notwithstanding. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0068" id="link2H_4_0068"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Letter from Mr. Gallatin to Mr. Astor + </h2> + <h3> + New York, August 5, 1835. + </h3> + <p> + DEAR SIR,—In compliance with your request, I will state such facts + as I recollect touching the subjects mentioned in your letter of 28th ult. + I may be mistaken respecting dates and details, and will only relate + general facts, which I well remember. + </p> + <p> + In conformity with the treaty of 1794 with Great Britain, the citizens and + subjects of each country were permitted to trade with the Indians residing + in the territories of the other party. The reciprocity was altogether + nominal. Since the conquest of Canada, the British had inherited from the + French the whole fur trade, through the great lakes and their + communications, with all the western Indians, whether residing in the + British dominions or the United States. They kept the important western + posts on those lakes till about the year 1797. And the defensive Indian + war, which the United States had to sustain from 1776 to 1795, had still + more alienated the Indians, and secured to the British their exclusive + trade, carried through the lakes, wherever the Indians in that quarter + lived. No American could, without imminent danger of property and life, + carry on that trade, even within the United States, by the way of either + Michilimackinac or St. Mary’s. And independent of the loss of commerce, + Great Britain was enabled to preserve a most dangerous influence over our + Indians. + </p> + <p> + It was under these circumstances that you communicated to our government + the prospect you had to be able, and your intention, to purchase one half + of the interest of the Canadian Fur Company, engaged in trade by the way + of Michilimackinac with our own Indians. You wished to know whether the + plan met with the approbation of government, and how far you could rely on + its protection and encouragement. This overture was received with great + satisfaction by the administration, and Mr. Jefferson, then President, + wrote you to that effect. I was also directed, as Secretary of the + Treasury, to write to you an official letter to the same purpose. On + investigating the subject, it was found that the Executive had no + authority to give you any direct aid; and I believe you received nothing + more than an entire approbation of your plan, and general assurances of + the protection due to every citizen engaged in lawful and useful pursuits. + </p> + <p> + You did effect the contemplated purchase, but in what year I do not + recollect. Immediately before the war, you represented that a large + quantity of merchandise, intended for the Indian trade, and including arms + and munitions of war, belonging to that concern of which you owned one + half, was deposited at a post on Lake Huron, within the British dominions; + that, in order to prevent their ultimately falling into the hands of + Indians who might prove hostile, you were desirous to try to have them + conveyed into the United States; but that you were prevented by the then + existing law of non-intercourse with the British dominions. + </p> + <p> + The Executive could not annul the provisions of that law. But I was + directed to instruct the collectors on the lakes, in case you and your + agents should voluntarily bring in and deliver to them any part of the + goods above mentioned, to receive and keep them in their guard, and not to + commence prosecutions until further instructions: the intention being then + to apply to Congress for an act remitting the forfeiture and penalties. I + wrote accordingly, to that effect, to the collectors of Detroit and + Michilimackinac. + </p> + <p> + The attempt to obtain the goods did not, however, succeed; and I cannot + say how far the failure injured you. But the war proved fatal to another + much more extensive and important enterprise. + </p> + <p> + Previous to that time, but I also forget the year, you had undertaken to + carry on a trade on your own account, though I believe under the New York + charter of the American Fur Company, with the Indians west of the Rocky + Mountains. This project was also communicated to government, and met, of + course, with its full approbation, and best wishes, for your success. You + carried it on, on the most extensive scale, sending several ships to the + mouth of the Columbia River, and a large party by land across the + mountains, and finally founding the establishment of Astoria. + </p> + <p> + This unfortunately fell into the hands of the enemy during the war, from + circumstances with which I am but imperfectly acquainted—being then + absent on a foreign mission. I returned in September, 1815, and sailed + again on a mission to France in June, 1816. During that period I visited + Washington twice—in October or November, 1815, and in March, 1816. + On one of these occasions, and I believe on the last, you mentioned to me + that you were disposed once more to renew the attempt, and to reestablish + Astoria, provided you had the protection of the American flag; for which + purpose, a lieutenant’s command would be sufficient to you. You requested + me to mention this to the President, which I did. Mr. Madison said he + would consider the subject, and, although he did not commit himself, I + thought that he received the proposal favorably. The message was verbal, + and I do not know whether the application was ever renewed in a more + formal manner. I sailed soon after for Europe, and was seven years absent. + I never had the pleasure, since 1816, to see Mr. Madison, and never heard + again anything concerning the subject in question. + </p> + <p> + I remain, dear sir, most respectfully, Your obedient servant, + </p> + <p> + ALBERT GALLATIN. + </p> + <p> + John Jacob Astor, Esq., New York. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0069" id="link2H_4_0069"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Notices of the Present State of the Fur Trade, + </h2> + <p> + chiefly extracted from an article published in Silliman’s Magazine for + January, 1834. + </p> + <p> + THE Northwest Company did not long enjoy the sway they had acquired over + the trading regions of the Columbia. A competition, ruinous in its + expenses, which had long existed between them and the Hudson’s Bay + Company, ended in their downfall and the ruin of most of the partners. The + relict of the company became merged in the rival association, and the + whole business was conducted under the name of the Hudson’s Bay Company. + </p> + <p> + This coalition took place in 1821. They then abandoned Astoria, and built + a large establishment sixty miles up the river, on the right bank, which + they called Fort Vancouver. This was in a neighborhood where provisions + could be more readily procured, and where there was less danger from + molestation by any naval force. The company are said to carry on an active + and prosperous trade, and to give great encouragement to settlers. They + are extremely jealous, however, of any interference or participation in + their trade, and monopolize it from the coast of the Pacific to the + mountains, and for a considerable extent north and south. The American + traders and trappers who venture across the mountains, instead of enjoying + the participation in the trade of the river and its tributaries, that had + been stipulated by treaty, are obliged to keep to the south, out of the + track of the Hudson’s Bay parties. + </p> + <p> + Mr. Astor has withdrawn entirely from the American Fur Company, as he has, + in fact, from active business of every kind. That company is now headed by + Mr. Ramsay Crooks; its principal establishment is at Michilimackinac, and + it receives its furs from the posts depending on that station, and from + those on the Mississippi, Missouri, and Yellow Stone Rivers, and the great + range of country extending thence to the Rocky Mountains. This company has + steamboats in its employ, with which it ascends the rivers, and penetrates + to a vast distance into the bosom of those regions formerly so painfully + explored in keel-boats and barges, or by weary parties on horseback and on + foot. The first irruption of steamboats in the heart of these vast + wildernesses is said to have caused the utmost astonishment and affright + among their savage inhabitants. + </p> + <p> + In addition to the main companies already mentioned, minor associations + have been formed, which push their way in the most intrepid manner to the + remote parts of the far West, and beyond the mountain barriers. One of the + most noted of these is Ashley’s company, from St. Louis, who trap for + themselves, and drive an extensive trade with the Indians. The spirit, + enterprise, and hardihood of Ashley are themes of the highest eulogy in + the far West, and his adventures and exploits furnish abundance of + frontier stories. + </p> + <p> + Another company of one hundred and fifty persons from New York, formed in + 1831, and headed by Captain Bonneville of the United States army, has + pushed its enterprise into tracts before but little known, and has brought + considerable quantities of furs from the region between the Rocky + Mountains and the coasts of Monterey and Upper California, on the + Buenaventura and Timpanogos rivers. + </p> + <p> + The fur countries, from the Pacific, east to the Rocky Mountains, are now + occupied (exclusive of private combinations and individual trappers and + traders) by the Russians; and on the northwest from Behring’s Strait to + Queen Charlotte’s Island, in north latitude fifty-three degrees, and by + the Hudson’s Bay Company thence, south of the Columbia River; while + Ashley’s company, and that under Captain Bonneville, take the remainder of + the region to California. Indeed, the whole compass from the Mississippi + to the Pacific Ocean is traversed in every direction. The mountains and + forests, from the Arctic Sea to the Gulf of Mexico, are threaded through + every maze, by the hunter. Every river and tributary stream, from the + Columbia to the mouth of the Rio del Norte, and from the M’Kenzie to the + Colorado of the West, from their head springs to their junction, are + searched and trapped for beaver. Almost all the American furs, which do + not belong to the Hudson’s Bay Company, find their way to New York, and + are either distributed thence for home consumption, or sent to foreign + markets. + </p> + <p> + The Hudson’s Bay Company ship their furs from their factories of York Fort + and from Moose River, on Hudson’s Bay; their collection from Grand River, + &c., they ship from Canada; and the collection from Columbia goes to + London. None of their furs come to the United States, except through the + London market. + </p> + <p> + The export trade of furs from the United States is chiefly to London. Some + quantities have been sent to Canton, and some few to Hamburg; and an + increasing export trade in beaver, otter, nutria, and vicunia wool, + prepared for the hatter’s use, is carried on in Mexico. Some furs are + exported from Baltimore, Philadelphia, and Boston; but the principal + shipments from the United States are from New York to London, from whence + they are sent to Leipsic, a well-known mart for furs, where they are + disposed of during the great fair in that city, and distributed to every + part of the continent. + </p> + <p> + The United States import from South America, nutria, vicunia, chinchilla, + and a few deer-skins; also fur seals from the Lobos Islands, off the river + Plate. A quantity of beaver, otter, &c., are brought annually from + Santa Fe. Dressed furs for edgings, linings, caps, muffs, &c., such as + squirrel, genet, fitch-skins, and blue rabbit, are received from the north + of Europe; also cony and hare’s fur; but the largest importations are from + London, where is concentrated nearly the whole of the North American fur + trade. + </p> + <p> + Such is the present state of the fur trade, by which it will appear that + the extended sway of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and the monopoly of the + region of which Astoria was the key, has operated to turn the main current + of this opulent trade into the coffers of Great Britain, and to render + London the emporium instead of New York, as Mr. Astor had intended. + </p> + <p> + We will subjoin a few observations on the animals sought after in this + traffic, extracted from the same intelligent source with the preceding + remarks. + </p> + <p> + Of the fur-bearing animals, “the precious ermine,” so called by way of + preeminence, is found, of the best quality, only in the cold regions of + Europe and Asia. * Its fur is of the most perfect whiteness, except the + tip of its tail, which is of a brilliant shining black. With these back + tips tacked on the skins, they are beautifully spotted, producing an + effect often imitated, but never equalled in other furs. The ermine is of + the genus mustela (weasel), and resembles the common weasel in its form, + is from fourteen to sixteen inches from the tip of the nose to the end of + the tail. The body is from ten to twelve inches long. It lives in hollow + trees, river banks, and especially in beech forests; preys on small birds, + is very shy, sleeping during the day, and employing the night in search of + food. The fur of the older animals is preferred to the younger. It is + taken by snares and traps, and sometimes shot with blunt arrows. Attempts + have been made to domesticate it; but it is extremely wild and has been + found untameable. + </p> + <p> + The sable can scarcely be called second to the ermine. It is a native of + Northern Europe and Siberia, and is also of the genus mustela. In + Samoieda, Yakutsk, Kamtschatka, and Russian Lapland, it is found of the + richest quality, and darkest color. In its habits, it resembles the + ermine. It preys on small squirrels and birds, sleeps by day, and prowls + for food during the night. It is so like the marten in every particular + except its size, and the dark shade of its color, that naturalists have + not decided whether it is the richest and finest of the marten tribe, or a + variety of that species: It varies in dimensions from eighteen to twenty + inches. + </p> + <p> + The rich dark shades of the sable, and the snowy whiteness of the ermine, + the great depth, and the peculiar, almost flowing softness of their skins + and fur, have combined to gain them a preference in all countries, and in + all ages of the world. In this age, they maintain the same relative + estimate in regard to other furs, as when they marked the rank of the + proud crusader, and were emblazoned in heraldry: but in most European + nations, they are now worn promiscuously by the opulent. + </p> + <p> + The martens from Northern Asia and the Mountains of Kamtschatka are much + superior to the American, though in every pack of American marten skins + there are a certain number which are beautifully shaded, and of a dark + brown olive color, of great depth and richness. + </p> + <p> + Next these in value, for ornament and utility, are the sea-otter, the + mink, and the fiery fox. + </p> + <p> + The fiery fox is the bright red of Asia; is more brilliantly colored and + of finer fur than any other of the genus. It is highly valued for the + splendor of its red color and the fineness of its fur. It is the standard + of value on the northeastern coast of Asia. + </p> + <p> + The sea-otter which was first introduced into commerce in 1725, from the + Aleutian and Kurile Islands, is an exceedingly fine, soft, close fur, jet + black in winter, with a silken gloss. The fur of the young animal is of a + beautiful brown color. It is met with in great abundance in Behring’s + Island, Kamtschatka, Aleutian and Fox Islands, and is also taken on the + opposite coasts of North America. It is sometimes taken with nets, but + more frequently with clubs and spears. Their food is principally lobster + and other shell-fish. + </p> + <p> + In 1780 furs had become so scarce in Siberia that the supply was + insufficient for the demand in the Asiatic countries. It was at this time + that the sea-otter was introduced into the markets for China. The skins + brought such incredible prices, as to originate immediately several + American and British expeditions to the northern islands of the Pacific, + to Nootka Sound, and the northwest coast of America; but the Russians + already had possession of the tract which they now hold, and had arranged + a trade for the sea-otter with the Koudek tribes. They do not engross the + trade, however; the American northwest trading ships procure them, all + along the coast, from the Indians. + </p> + <p> + At one period, the fur seals formed no inconsiderable item in the trade. + South Georgia, in south latitude fifty-five degrees, discovered in 1675, + was explored by Captain Cook in 1771. The Americans immediately commenced + carrying seal skins thence to China, where they obtained the most + exorbitant prices. One million two hundred thousand skins have been taken + from that island alone, and nearly an equal number from the Island of + Desolation, since they were first resorted to for the purpose of commerce. + </p> + <p> + The discovery of the South Shetlands, sixty-three degrees south latitude, + in 1818, added surprisingly to the trade in fur seals. The number taken + from the South Shetlands in 1821 and 1822 amounted to three hundred and + twenty thousand. This valuable animal is now almost extinct in all these + islands, owing to the exterminating system adopted by the hunters. They + are still taken on the Lobos Islands, where the provident government of + Montevideo restrict the fishery, or hunting, within certain limits, which + insures an annual return of the seals. At certain seasons, these amphibia, + for the purpose of renewing their coat, come up on the dark frowning rocks + and precipices, where there is not a trace of vegetation. In the middle of + January, the islands are partially cleared of snow, where a few patches of + short straggling grass spring up in favorable situations; but the seals do + not resort to it for food. They remain on the rocks not less than two + months, without any sustenance, when they return much emaciated to the + sea. + </p> + <p> + Bears of various species and colors, many varieties of the fox, the wolf, + the beaver, the otter, the marten, the raccoon, the badger, the wolverine, + the mink, the lynx, the muskrat, the woodchuck, the rabbit, the hare, and + the squirrel, are natives of North America. + </p> + <p> + The beaver, otter, lynx fisher, hare, and raccoon, are used principally + for hats; while the bears of several varieties furnish an excellent + material for sleigh linings, for cavalry caps, and other military + equipments. The fur of the black fox is the most valuable of any of the + American varieties; and next to that the red, which is exported to China + and Smyrna. In China, the red is employed for trimmings, linings, and + robes; the latter being variegated by adding the black fur of the paws, in + spots or waves. There are many other varieties of American fox, such as + the gray, the white, the cross, the silver, and the dun-colored. The + silver fox is a rare animal, a native of the woody country below the falls + of the Columbia River. It has a long, thick, deep lead-colored fur, + intermingled with long hairs, invariably white at the top, forming a + bright lustrous silver gray, esteemed by some more beautiful than any + other kind of fox. + </p> + <p> + The skins of the buffalo, of the Rocky Mountain sheep, of various deer and + of the antelope, are included in the fur trade with the Indians and + trappers of the north and west. + </p> + <p> + Fox and seal skins are sent from Greenland to Denmark. The white fur of + the arctic fox and polar bear is sometimes found in the packs brought to + the traders by the most northern tribes of Indians, but is not + particularly valuable. The silver-tipped rabbit is peculiar to England, + and is sent thence to Russia and China. + </p> + <p> + Other furs are employed and valued according to the caprices of fashion, + as well in those countries where they are needed for defenses against the + severity of the seasons, as among the inhabitants of milder climates, who, + severely of Tartar or Sclavonian descent, are said to inherit an + attachment to furred clothing. Such are the inhabitants of Poland, of + Southern Russia, of China, of Persia, of Turkey, and all the nations of + Gothic origin in the middle and western parts of Europe. Under the burning + suns of Syria and Egypt, and the mild climes of Bucharia and Independent + Tartary, there is also a constant demand, and a great consumption, where + there exists no physical necessity. In our own temperate latitudes, + besides their use in the arts, they are in request for ornament and warmth + during the winter, and large quantities are annually consumed for both + purposes in the United States. + </p> + <p> + From the foregoing statements, it appears that the fur trade must + henceforward decline. The advanced state of geographical science shows + that no new countries remain to be explored. In North America the animals + are slowly decreasing, from the persevering efforts and the indiscriminate + slaughter practiced by the hunters, and by the appropriation to the uses + of man of those forests and rivers which have afforded them food and + protection. They recede with the aborigines, before the tide of + civilization; but a diminished supply will remain in the mountains and + uncultivated tracts of this and other countries, if the avidity of the + hunter can be restrained within proper limitations. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + * An animal called the stoat, a kind of ermine, is said to + be found in North America, but very inferior to the European + and Asiatic. + + * * The finest fur and the darkest color are most esteemed; + and whether the difference arises from the age of the + animal, or from some peculiarity of location, is not known. + They do not vary more from the common marten than the + Arabian horse from the shaggy Canadian. +</pre> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0070" id="link2H_4_0070"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Height of the Rocky Mountains. + </h2> + <p> + VARIOUS estimates have been made of the height of the Rocky Mountains, but + it is doubtful whether any have, as yet, done justice to their real + altitude, which promises to place them only second to the highest + mountains of the known world. Their height has been diminished to the eye + by the great elevation of the plains from which they rise. They consist, + according to Long, of ridges, knobs, and peaks, variously disposed. The + more elevated parts are covered with perpetual snows, which contribute to + give them a luminous, and, at a great distance, even a brilliant + appearance; whence they derive, among some of the first discoverers, the + name of the Shining Mountains. + </p> + <p> + James’s Peak has generally been cited as the highest of the chain; and its + elevation above the common level has been ascertained, by a + trigonometrical measurement, to be about eight thousand five hundred feet. + Mr. Long, however, judged, from the position of the snow near the summits + of other peaks and ridges at no great distance from it, that they were + much higher. Having heard Professor Renwick, of New York, express an + opinion of the altitude of these mountains far beyond what had usually + been ascribed to them, we applied to him for the authority on which he + grounded his observation, and here subjoin his reply: + </p> + <p> + Columbia College, New York, February 23, 1836. + </p> + <p> + Dear Sir,—In compliance with your request, I have to communicate + some facts in relation to the heights of the Rocky Mountains, and the + sources whence I obtained the information. + </p> + <p> + In conversation with Simon M’Gillivray, Esq., a partner of the Northwest + Company, he stated to me his impression, that the mountains in the + vicinity of the route pursued by the traders of that company were nearly + as high as the Himalayas. He had himself crossed by this route, seen the + snowy summits of the peaks, and experienced a degree of cold which + required a spirit thermometer to indicate it. His authority for the + estimate of the heights was a gentleman who had been employed for several + years as surveyor of that company. This conversation occurred about + sixteen years since. + </p> + <p> + A year or two afterwards, I had the pleasure of dining, at Major + Delafield’s with Mr. Thompson, the gentleman referred to by Mr. + M’Gillivray. I inquired of him in relation to the circumstances mentioned + by Mr. M’Gillivray, and he stated that, by the joint means of the + barometric and trigonometric measurement, he had ascertained the height of + one of the peaks to be about twenty-five thousand feet, and there were + others of nearly the same height in the vicinity. + </p> + <p> + I am, dear sir, To W. Irving, Esq. Yours truly, JAMES RENWICK. + </p> + <p> + Suggestions with respect to the Indian tribes, + </p> + <p> + and the protection of our Trade. + </p> + <p> + IN the course of this work, a few general remarks have been hazarded + respecting the Indian tribes of the prairies, and the dangers to be + apprehended from them in future times to our trade beyond the Rocky + Mountains and with the Spanish frontiers. Since writing those remarks, we + have met with some excellent observations and suggestions, in manuscript, + on the same subject, written by Captain Bonneville, of the United States + army, who had lately returned from a long residence among the tribes of + the Rocky Mountains. Captain B. approves highly of the plan recently + adopted by the United States government for the organization of a regiment + of dragoons for the protection of our western frontier, and the trade + across the prairies. “No other species of military force,” he observes, + “is at all competent to cope with these restless and wandering hordes, who + require to be opposed with swiftness quite as much as with strength; and + the consciousness that a troop, uniting these qualifications, is always on + the alert to avenge their outrages upon the settlers and traders, will go + very far towards restraining them from the perpetration of those thefts + and murders which they have heretofore committed with impunity, whenever + stratagem or superiority of force has given them the advantage. Their + interest already has done something towards their pacification with our + countrymen. From the traders among them, they receive their supplies in + the greatest abundance, and upon very equitable terms; and when it is + remembered that a very considerable amount of property is yearly + distributed among them by the government, as presents, it will readily be + perceived that they are greatly dependent upon us for their most valued + resources. If, superadded to this inducement, a frequent display of + military power be made in their territories, there can be little doubt + that the desired security and peace will be speedily afforded to our own + people. But the idea of establishing a permanent amity and concord amongst + the various east and west tribes themselves, seems to me, if not wholly + impracticable, at least infinitely more difficult than many excellent + philanthropists have hoped and believed. Those nations which have so + lately emigrated from the midst of our settlements to live upon our + western borders, and have made some progress in agriculture and the arts + of civilization, have, in the property they have acquired, and the + protection and aid extended to them, too many advantages to be induced + readily to take up arms against us, particularly if they can be brought to + the full conviction that their new homes will be permanent and + undisturbed; and there is every reason and motive, in policy as well as + humanity, for our ameliorating their condition by every means in our + power. But the case is far different with regard to the Osages, the + Kanzas, the Pawnees, and other roving hordes beyond the frontiers of the + settlements. Wild and restless in their character and habits, they are by + no means so susceptible of control or civilization; and they are urged by + strong, and, to them, irresistible causes in their situation and + necessities, to the daily perpetuation of violence and fraud. Their + permanent subsistence, for example, is derived from the buffalo hunting + grounds, which lie a great distance from their towns. Twice a year they + are obliged to make long and dangerous expeditions, to procure the + necessary provisions for themselves and their families. For this purpose + horses are absolutely requisite, for their own comfort and safety, as well + as for the transportation of their food, and their little stock of + valuables; and without them they would be reduced, during a great portion + of the year, to a state of abject misery and privation. They have no brood + mares, nor any trade sufficiently valuable to supply their yearly losses, + and endeavor to keep up their stock by stealing horses from the other + tribes to the west and southwest. Our own people, and the tribes + immediately upon our borders, may indeed be protected from their + depredations; and the Kanzas, Osages, Pawnees, and others, may be induced + to remain at peace among themselves, so long as they are permitted to + pursue the old custom of levying upon the Camanches and other remote + nations for their complement of steeds for the warriors, and pack-horses + for their transportation to and from the hunting ground. But the instant + they are forced to maintain a peaceful and inoffensive demeanor towards + the tribes along the Mexican border, and find that every violation of + their rights is followed by the avenging arm of our government, the result + must be, that, reduced to a wretchedness and want which they can ill + brook, and feeling the certainty of punishment for every attempt to + ameliorate their condition in the only way they as yet comprehend, they + will abandon their unfruitful territory and remove to the neighborhood of + the Mexican lands, and there carry on a vigorous predatory warfare + indiscriminately upon the Mexicans and our own people trading or + travelling in that quarter. + </p> + <p> + “The Indians of the prairies are almost innumerable. Their superior + horsemanship, which in my opinion, far exceeds that of any other people on + the face of the earth, their daring bravery, their cunning and skill in + the warfare of the wilderness, and the astonishing rapidity and secrecy + with which they are accustomed to move in their martial expeditions, will + always render them most dangerous and vexatious neighbors, when their + necessities or their discontents may drive them to hostility with our + frontiers. Their mode and principles of warfare will always protect them + from final and irretrievable defeat, and secure their families from + participating in any blow, however severe, which our retribution might + deal out to them. + </p> + <p> + “The Camanches lay the Mexicans under contribution for horses and mules, + which they are always engaged in stealing from them in incredible numbers; + and from the Camanches, all the roving tribes of the far West, by a + similar exertion of skill and daring, supply themselves in turn. It seems + to me, therefore, under all these circumstances, that the apparent + futility of any philanthropic schemes for the benefit of these nations, + and a regard for our own protection, concur in recommending that we remain + satisfied with maintaining peace upon our own immediate borders, and leave + the Mexicans and the Camanches, and all the tribes hostile to these last, + to settle their differences and difficulties in their own way. + </p> + <p> + “In order to give full security and protection to our trading parties + circulating in all directions through the great prairies, I am under the + impression that a few judicious measures on the part of the government, + involving a very limited expense, would be sufficient. And, in attaining + this end, which of itself has already become an object of public interest + and import, another, of much greater consequence, might be brought about, + namely, the securing to the States a most valuable and increasing trade, + now carried on by caravans directly to Santa Fe. + </p> + <p> + “As to the first desideratum: the Indians can only be made to respect the + lives and property of the American parties, by rendering them dependent + upon us for their supplies; which alone can be done with complete effect + by the establishment of a trading post, with resident traders, at some + point which will unite a sufficient number of advantages to attract the + several tribes to itself, in preference to their present places of resort + for that purpose; for it is a well-known fact that the Indians will always + protect their trader, and those in whom he is interested, so long as they + derive benefits from him. The alternative presented to those at the north, + by the residence of the agents of the Hudson’s Bay Company amongst them, + renders the condition of our people in that quarter less secure; but I + think it will appear at once, upon the most cursory examination, that no + such opposition further south could be maintained, so as to weaken the + benefits of such an establishment as is here suggested. + </p> + <p> + “In considering this matter, the first question which presents itself is, + where do these tribes now make their exchanges, and obtain their necessary + supplies. They resort almost exclusively to the Mexicans, who, themselves, + purchase from us whatever the Indians most seek for. In this point of + view, therefore, coeteris paribus, it would be an easy matter for us to + monopolize the whole traffic. All that is wanted is some location more + convenient for the natives than that offered by the Mexicans, to give us + the undisputed superiority; and the selection of such a point requires but + a knowledge of the single fact, that these nations invariably winter upon + the head waters of the Arkansas, and there prepare all their buffalo robes + for trade. These robes are heavy, and, to the Indian, very difficult of + transportation. Nothing but necessity induces them to travel any great + distance with such inconvenient baggage. A post, therefore, established + upon the head waters of the Arkansas, must infallibly secure an + uncontested preference over that of the Mexicans; even at their prices and + rates of barter. Then let the dragoons occasionally move about among these + people in large parties, impressing them with the proper estimate of our + power to protect and to punish, and at once we have complete and assured + security for all citizens whose enterprise may lead them beyond the + border, and an end to the outrages and depredations which now dog the + footsteps of the traveller, in the prairies, and arrest and depress the + most advantageous commerce. Such a post need not be stronger than fifty + men; twenty-five to be employed as hunters, to supply the garrison, and + the residue as a defense against any hostility. Situated here upon the + good lands of the Arkansas, in the midst of abundance of timber, while it + might be kept up at a most inconsiderable expense, such an establishment + within ninety miles of Santa Fe or Taos would be more than justified by + the other and more important advantages before alluded to, leaving the + protection of the traders with the Indian tribes entirely out of the + question. + </p> + <p> + “This great trade, carried on by caravans to Santa Fe, annually loads one + hundred wagons with merchandise, which is bartered in the northern + provinces or Mexico for cash and for beaver furs. The numerous articles + excluded as contraband, and the exorbitant duties laid upon all those that + are admitted by the Mexican government, present so many obstacles to + commerce, that I am well persuaded, that if a post, such as is here + suggested, should be established on the Arkansas, it would become the + place of deposit, not only for the present trade, but for one infinitely + more extended. Here the Mexicans might purchase their supplies, and might + well afford to sell them at prices which would silence all competition + from any other quarter. + </p> + <p> + “These two trades, with the Mexicans and the Indians, centring at this + post, would give rise to a large village of traders and laborers, and + would undoubtedly be hailed, by all that section of country, as a + permanent and invaluable advantage. A few pack-horses would carry all the + clothing and ammunition necessary for the post during the first year, and + two light field-pieces would be all the artillery required for its + defense. Afterwards, all the horses required for the use of the + establishment might be purchased from the Mexicans at the low price of ten + dollars each; and, at the same time, whatever animals might be needed to + supply the losses among the dragoons traversing the neighborhood, could be + readily procured. The Upper Missouri Indians can furnish horses, at very + cheap rates, to any number of the same troops who might be detailed for + the defense of the northern frontier; and, in other respects, a very + limited outlay of money would suffice to maintain a post in that section + of the country. + </p> + <p> + “From these considerations, and my own personal observations, I am, + therefore, disposed to believe that two posts established by the + government, one at the mouth of the Yellowstone River, and one on the + Arkansas, would completely protect all our people in every section of the + great wilderness of the West; while other advantages, at least with regard + to one of them, confirm and urge the suggestion. A fort at the mouth of + the Yellowstone, garrisoned by fifty men would be perfectly safe. The + establishment might be constructed simply with a view to the stores, + stables for the dragoons’ horses, and quarters for the regular garrison; + the rest being provided with sheds or lodges, erected in the vicinity, for + their residence during the winter months.” + </p> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1371 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |