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diff --git a/old/1356.txt b/old/1356.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..35ae39f --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1356.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10810 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cruise of the Cachalot, by Frank T. Bullen + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cruise of the Cachalot + Round the World After Sperm Whales + +Author: Frank T. Bullen + +Posting Date: August 15, 2008 [EBook #1356] +Release Date: June, 1998 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CRUISE OF THE CACHALOT *** + + + + +Produced by An Anonymous Volunteer + + + + + +THE CRUISE OF THE "CACHALOT" + +ROUND THE WORLD AFTER SPERM WHALES + +Frank T. Bullen, F.R.G.S. + +First Mate + + + + + To + + Miss Emily Hensley + + In grateful remembrance of thirty years' constant friendship and + practical help this work is affectionately dedicated by her + humble pupil. + + + + +PREFACE + +In the following pages an attempt has been made--it is believed for the +first time--to give an account of the cruise of a South Sea whaler from +the seaman's standpoint. Two very useful books have been published--both +of them over half a century ago--on the same subject; but, being written +by the surgeons of whale-ships for scientific purposes, neither of them +was interesting to the general reader. ["Narrative of a Whaling Voyage +round the Globe," by F Debell Bennett, F.R.C.S. (2 vols). Bentley, +London (1840). "The Sperm Whale Fishery," by Thomas Beale, M.R.C.S. +London (1835).] They have both been long out of print; but their value +to the student of natural history has been, and still is, very great, +Dr. Beale's book, in particular, being still the authority on the sperm +whale. + +This book does not pretend to compete with either of the above valuable +works. Its aims is to present to the general reader a simple account of +the methods employed, and the dangers met with, in a calling about +which the great mass of the public knows absolutely nothing. Pending the +advent of some great writer who shall see the wonderful possibilities +for literature contained in the world-wide wanderings of the South Sea +whale-fishers, the author has endeavoured to summarize his experiences +so that they may be read without weariness, and, it is hoped, with +profit. + +The manifold shortcomings of the work will not, it is trusted, be laid +to the account of the subject, than which none more interesting could +well be imagined, but to the limitations of the writer, whose long +experience of sea life has done little to foster the literary faculty. + +One claim may be made with perfect confidence--that if the manner be +not all that could be wished, the matter is entirely trustworthy, being +compiled from actual observation and experience, and in no case at +second-hand. An endeavour has also been made to exclude such matter +as is easily obtainable elsewhere--matters of common knowledge and +"padding" of any sort--the object not being simply the making of a book, +but the record of little-known facts. + +Great care has been taken to use no names either of ships or persons, +which could, by being identified, give annoyance or pain to any one, as +in many cases strong language has been necessary for the expression of +opinions. + +Finally, the author hopes that, although in no sense exclusively a +book for boys, the coming generation may find this volume readable and +interesting; and with that desire he offers it confidently, though in +all humility, to that great impartial jury, the public. + +F.T.B. Dulwich, July, 1897. + + + + +CONTENTS + +CHAPTER I--OUTWARD BOUND Adrift in New Bedford--I get a ship--A +motley crowd--"Built by the mile, and cut off as you want 'em"--Mistah +Jones--Greenies--Off to sea. + +CHAPTER II--PREPARING FOR ACTION Primitive steering-gear--Strange +drill--Misery below--Short commons--Goliath rigs the +"crow's-nest"--Useful information--Preparing for war--Strange weapons--A +boat-load. + +CHAPTER III--FISHING BEGINS The cleanliness of a whale-ship--No +skulking--Porpoise-fishing--Cannibals--Cooking operations--Boat-drill--A +good look-out--"Black-fishing"--Roguery in all trades--Plenty of fresh +beef--The nursery of American whalemen. + +CHAPTER IV--BAD WEATHER Nautical routine--The first gale--Comfort +versus speed--A grand sea-boat--The Sargasso Sea--Natural history +pursuits--Dolphin--Unconventional fishing--Rumours of a visit to the +Cape Verdes--Babel below--No allowance, but not "full and plenty"--Queer +washing--Method of sharing rations--The "slop-shop" opened--Our +prospects. + + +CHAPTER V--ACTUAL WARFARE. OUR FIRST WHALE Premonitions--Discussion +on whaling from unknown premisses--I wake in a fright--Sperm whales +at last--The war begins--Warning--We get fast--and get loose--In +trouble--an uncomfortable situation--No Pity-Only one whale--Rigging the +"cutting-stage"--Securing the whale alongside. + + +CHAPTER VI--"DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY" Goliath in trouble--Commence +"cutting-in"--A heavy head--A tank of spermaceti--Decks running +with oil--A "Patent" mincing-machine--Extensive cooking--Dangerous +work--Three tuns of oil--A horrible mess--A thin-skinned monster--A fine +mouth of teeth. + + +CHAPTER VII--GETTING SOUTHWARD Captain Slocum's +amenities--Expensive beer--St. Paul's Rocks--"Bonito"--"Showery" +weather--Waterspouts--Calms--A friendly finback--A disquisition on +whales by Mistah Jones--Flying-fishing. + + +CHAPTER VIII--ABNER'S WHALE Abner in luck--A big "fish" at last--A feat +of endurance--A fighting whale--The sperm whale's food--Ambergris--A +good reception--Hard labour--Abner's reward--"Scrimshaw". + + +CHAPTER IX--OUR FIRST CALLING-PLACE A forced march--Tristan +d'Acunha--Visitors--Fresh provisions--A warm welcome--Goliath's +turn--a feathered host--Good gear--A rough time--Creeping +north--Uncertainty--"Rule of thumb"--navigation--The Mozambique Channel. + + +CHAPTER X--A VISIT TO SOME STRANGE PLACES Tropical thunderstorms--A +"record" day's fishing--Cetacean frivolities--Mistah Jones moralizes--A +snug harbour--Wooding and watering--Catching a turtle--Catching a +"Tartar"--A violent death--A crooked jaw--Aldabra Island--Primeval +inhabitants--A strange steed--"Pirate" birds--Good eggs--Green +cocoa-nuts--More turtle--A school of "kogia". + + +CHAPTER XI--ROUND THE COCOS AND SEYCHELLES We encounter a "cyclone"--A +tremendous gust--a foundering ship--To anchor for repairs--The +Cocos--Repairing damages--Around the Seychelles--A "milk" sea--A +derelict prahu--A ghastly freight--A stagnant sea. + + +CHAPTER XII--WHICH TREATS OF THE KRAKEN "Eyes and no eyes" at sea--Of +big mollusca--The origin of sea-serpent stories--Rediscovery of the +"Kraken"--A conflict of monsters--"The insatiable nightmares of the +sea"--Spermaceti running to waste--The East Indian maze. + + +CHAPTER XIII--OFF TO THE JAPAN GROUNDS A whale off Hong Kong--The +skipper and his "'bomb-gun"--Injury to the captain--Unwelcome +visitors--The heathen Chinee--We get safe off--"Death of Portagee +Jim"--The Funeral--The Coast of Japan--Port Lloyd--Meeting of +whale-ships. + + +CHAPTER XIV--LIBERTY DAY--AND AFTER Liberty day--I foregather with +a "beach-comber"--A big fight--Goliath on the war-path--A +court-martial--Wholesale flogging--a miserable crowd--Quite a fleet of +whale-ships--I "raise" a sperm whale--Severe competition--An unfortunate +stroke--The skipper distinguishes himself. + + +CHAPTER XV--WHICH COMES UNCOMFORTABLY NEAR BEING THE LAST I come +to grief--Emulating Jonah--Sharing a flurry--A long spell of +sick-leave--The whale's "sixth sense"--Off to the Kuriles--Prepare for +"bowhead" fishing--The Sea of Okhotsk--Abundant salmon--The "daintiness" +of seamen. + + +CHAPTER XVI--"BOWHEAD" FISHING Difference between whales--Popular ideas +exploded--The gentle mysticetus--Very tame work--Fond of tongue--Goliath +confides in me--An awful affair--Captain Slocum's death--"Not Amurath an +Amurath succeeds"--I am promoted. + + +CHAPTER XVII--VISIT TO HONOLULU Towards Honolulu--Missionaries and their +critics--The happy Kanaka--Honolulu--A pleasant holiday. + + +CHAPTER XVIII--ON THE "LINE" GROUNDS I get my opportunity--A +new harpooner--Feats under the skipper's eye--Two whales on one +line--Compliments Heavy towage--A grand haul. + + +CHAPTER XIX--EDGING SOUTHWARD Monotony--A school of blackfish--A boat +ripped in half--A multitude of sharks--A curious backbone--Christmas +Day--A novel Christmas dinner--A find of ambergris. + + +CHAPTER XX--"HUMPBACKING" AT VAU VAU "Gamming" again--a +Whitechapel rover--arrive at Vau Vau--Valuable friends--a Sunday +ashore--"Hollingside"--The natives at church--Full-dress--Very +"mishnally"--Idyllic cruising--Wonderful mother-love--A mighty feast. + + +CHAPTER XXI--PROGRESS OF THE "HUMPBACK" SEASON A fruitless chase--Placid +times--a stirring adventure--a vast cave--Unforeseen company--A night +of terror--We provide a feast for the sharks--the death of Abner--An +impressive ceremony--an invitation to dinner--Kanaka cookery. + + +CHAPTER XXII--FAREWELL TO VAU VAU Ignorance of the habits of whales--A +terrific encounter--VAE VICTIS--Rewarding our "flems"--We leave Van +Vau--The Outward bounder--Sailors' "homes"--A night of horror--Sudden +death--Futuna. + + +CHAPTER XXIII--AT FUTUNA, RECRUITING A fleet of nondescripts--"Tui +Tongoa" otherwise Sam--Eager recruits--Devout Catholics--A visit to +Sunday Island--A Crusoe family--Their eviction--Maori cabbage--Fine +fishing--Away for New Zealand--Sight the "Three Kings"--The Bay of +Islands. + + +CHAPTER XXIV--THE BAY OF ISLANDS AND NEW ZEALAND COAST Sleepy +hollow--Wood and water--liberty day--A plea for the sailors' +recreation--Our picnic--A a whiff of "May"--A delightful excursion--To +the southward again--Wintry weather--Enter Foveaux Straits. + + +CHAPTER XXV--ON THE SOLANDER GROUNDS Firstfruits of the Solander--An +easy catch--Delights of the Solander--Port William--The +old CHANCE--"Paddy Gilroy"--Barbarians from the East +End--Barracouta-Fishing--Wind-bound--An enormous school of +cachalots--Misfortune--A bursting whale--Back on the Solander +again--Cutting-in at Port William--Studying anatomy--Badly battered +Yankees--Paddy in luck again. + + +CHAPTER XXVI--PADDY'S LATEST EXPLOIT We try Preservation Inlet--An +astounding feat of Paddy Gilroy's. + + +CHAPTER XXVII--PORT PEGASUS Port Pegasus--Among old +acquaintances--"Mutton birds"--Skilled auxiliaries--A gratifying +catch--Leave port again--Back to the Solander--A grim escape--Our last +whales--Into Port William again--Paddy's assistance--We part with our +Kanakas--Sam's plans of conquest. + + +CHAPTER XXVIII--TO THE BLUFF, AND HOME And last--In high-toned +company--Another picnic--Depart from the Bluff--Hey for the Horn!--Among +the icebergs--"Scudding"--Favouring trades--A narrow escape from +collision--Home at last. + + + + +INTRODUCTION + +Without attempting the ambitious task of presenting a comprehensive +sketch of the origin, rise, and fall of whale-fishing as a whole, it +seems necessary to give a brief outline of that portion of the subject +bearing upon the theme of the present book before plunging into the +first chapter. + +This preliminary is the more needed for the reason alluded to in +the Preface--the want of knowledge of the subject that is apparent +everywhere. The Greenland whale fishery has been so popularized that +most people know something about it; the sperm whale fishery still +awaits its Scoresby and a like train of imitators and borrowers. + +Cachalots, or sperm whales, must have been captured on the coasts of +Europe in a desultory way from a very early date, by the incidental +allusions to the prime products spermaceti and ambergris which are found +in so many ancient writers, Shakespeare's reference--"The sovereign'st +thing on earth was parmaceti for an inward bruise"--will be familiar to +most people, as well as Milton's mention of the delicacies at Satan's +feast--"Grisamber steamed"--not to carry quotation any further. + +But in the year 1690 the brave and hardy fishermen of the north-east +coasts of North America established that systematic pursuit of the +cachalot which has thriven so wonderfully ever since, although it must +be confessed that the last few years have witnessed a serious decline in +this great branch of trade. + +For many years the American colonists completely engrossed this branch +of the whale fishery, contentedly leaving to Great Britain and the +continental nations the monopoly of the northern or Arctic fisheries, +while they cruised the stormy, if milder, seas around their own shores. + +For the resultant products, their best customer was the mother country, +and a lucrative commerce steadily grew up between the two countries. But +when the march of events brought the unfortunate and wholly unnecessary +War of Independence, this flourishing trade was the first to suffer, and +many of the daring fishermen became our fiercest foes on board their own +men-of-war. + +The total stoppage of the importation of sperm oil and spermaceti was +naturally severely felt in England, for time had not permitted the +invention of substitutes. In consequence of this, ten ships were +equipped and sent out to the sperm whale fishery from England in 1776, +most of them owned by one London firm, the Messrs. Enderby. The next +year, in order to encourage the infant enterprise, a Government bounty, +graduated from L500 to L1000 per ship, was granted. Under this +fostering care the number of ships engaged in the sperm whale fishery +progressively increased until 1791, when it attained its maximum. + +This method of whaling being quite new to our whalemen, it was +necessary, at great cost, to hire American officers and harpooners +to instruct them in the ways of dealing with these highly active +and dangerous cetacea. Naturally, it was by-and-by found possible +to dispense with the services of these auxiliaries; but it must be +confessed that the business never seems to have found such favour, or to +have been prosecuted with such smartness, among our whalemen as it has +by the Americans. + +Something of an exotic the trade always was among us, although it did +attain considerable proportions at one time. At first the fishing was +confined to the Atlantic Ocean; nor for many years was it necessary to +go farther afield, as abundance of whales could easily be found. + +As, however, the number of ships engaged increased, it was inevitable +that the known grounds should become exhausted, and in 1788 Messrs. +Enderby's ship, the EMILIA, first ventured round Cape Horn, as the +pioneer of a greater trade than ever. The way once pointed out, other +ships were not slow to follow, until, in 1819, the British whale-ship +SYREN opened up the till then unexplored tract of ocean in the western +part of the North Pacific, afterwards familiarly known as the "Coast +of Japan." From these teeming waters alone, for many years an average +annual catch of 40,000 barrels of oil was taken, which, at the average +price of L8 per barrel, will give some idea of the value of the trade +generally. + +The Australian colonists, early in their career, found the sperm whale +fishery easy of access from all their coasts, and especially lucrative. +At one time they bade fair to establish a whale fishery that should +rival the splendid trade of the Americans; but, like the mother country, +they permitted the fishery to decline, so that even bounties could not +keep it alive. + +Meanwhile, the Americans added to their fleet continually, prospering +amazingly. But suddenly the advent of the civil war let loose among +those peaceable cruisers the devastating ALABAMA, whose course was +marked in some parts of the world by the fires of blazing whale-ships. A +great part, of the Geneva award was on this account, although it must be +acknowledged that many pseudo-owners were enriched who never owned aught +but brazen impudence and influential friends to push their fictitious +claims. The real sufferers, seamen especially, in most cases never +received any redress whatever. + +From this crushing blow the American sperm whale fishery has never fully +recovered. When the writer was in the trade, some twenty-two years ago, +it was credited with a fleet of between three and four hundred sail; now +it may be doubted whether the numbers reach an eighth of that amount. A +rigid conservatism of method hinders any revival of the industry, which +is practically conducted to-day as it was fifty, or even a hundred +years ago; and it is probable that another decade will witness the +final extinction of what was once one of the most important maritime +industries in the world. + + + + +THE CRUISE OF THE "CACHALOT" + + + + +CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND + +At the age of eighteen, after a sea-experience of six years from the +time when I dodged about London streets, a ragged Arab, with wits +sharpened by the constant fight for food, I found myself roaming the +streets of New Bedford, Massachusetts. How I came to be there, of all +places in the world, does not concern this story at all, so I am not +going to trouble my readers with it; enough to say that I WAS there, and +mighty anxious to get away. Sailor Jack is always hankering for shore +when he is at sea, but when he is "outward bound"--that is, when his +money is all gone--he is like a cat in the rain there. + +So as MY money was all gone, I was hungry for a ship; and when a long, +keen-looking man with a goat-like beard, and mouth stained with dry +tobacco-juice, hailed me one afternoon at the street-corner, I answered +very promptly, scenting a berth. "Lookin' fer a ship, stranger?" said +he. "Yes; do you want a hand?" said I, anxiously. He made a funny little +sound something like a pony's whinny, then answered, "Wall, I should +surmise that I want between fifty and sixty hands, ef yew kin lay me +onto 'em; but, kem along, every dreep's a drop, an' yew seem likely +enough." With that he turned and led the way until we reached a building +around which were gathered one of the most nondescript crowds I had ever +seen. There certainly did not appear to be a sailor among them. Not +so much by their rig, though that is not a great deal to go by, but +by their actions and speech. One thing they all had in common, tobacco +chewing but as nearly every male I met with in America did that, it was +not much to be noticed. I had hardly done reckoning them up when two or +three bustling men came out and shepherded us all energetically into a +long, low room, where some form of agreement was read out to us. Sailors +are naturally and usually careless about the nature of the "articles" +they sign, their chief anxiety being to get to sea, and under somebody's +charge. But had I been ever so anxious to know what I was going to sign +this time, I could not, for the language might as well have been Chinese +for all I understood of it. However, I signed and passed on, engaged to +go I knew not where, in some ship I did not know even the name of, in +which I was to receive I did not know how much, or how little, for my +labour, nor how long I was going to be away. "What a young fool!" I hear +somebody say. I quite agree, but there were a good many more in that +ship, as in most ships that I have ever sailed in. + +From the time we signed the articles, we were never left to ourselves. +Truculent-looking men accompanied us to our several boarding-houses, +paid our debts for us, finally bringing us by boat to a ship lying out +in the bay. As we passed under her stern, I read the name CACHALOT, of +New Bedford; but as soon as we ranged alongside, I realized that I was +booked for the sailor's horror--a cruise in a whaler. Badly as I wanted +to get to sea, I had not bargained for this, and would have run some +risks to get ashore again; but they took no chances, so we were all soon +aboard. Before going forward, I took a comprehensive glance around, and +saw that I was on board of a vessel belonging to a type which has almost +disappeared off the face of the waters. A more perfect contrast to the +trim-built English clipper-ships that I had been accustomed to I could +hardly imagine. She was one of a class characterized by sailors as +"built by the mile, and cut off in lengths as you want 'em," bow and +stern almost alike, masts standing straight as broomsticks, and bowsprit +soaring upwards at an angle of about forty-five degrees. She was as +old-fashioned in her rig as in her hull; but I must not go into the +technical differences between rigs, for fear of making myself tedious. +Right in the centre of the deck, occupying a space of about ten feet by +eight, was a square erection of brickwork, upon which my wondering gaze +rested longest, for I had not the slightest idea what it could be. But +I was rudely roused from my meditations by the harsh voice of one of the +officers, who shouted, "Naow then, git below an' stow yer dunnage, 'n +look lively up agin." I took the broad hint, and shouldering my traps, +hurried forward to the fo'lk'sle, which was below deck. Tumbling down +the steep ladder, I entered the gloomy den which was to be for so long +my home, finding it fairly packed with my shipmates. A motley crowd +they were. I had been used in English ships to considerable variety of +nationality; but here were gathered, not only the representatives of +five or six nations, but 'long-shoremen of all kinds, half of whom had +hardly ever set eyes on a ship before! The whole space was undivided +by partition, but I saw at once that black men and white had separated +themselves, the blacks taking the port side and the whites the +starboard. Finding a vacant bunk by the dim glimmer of the ancient +teapot lamp that hung amidships, giving out as much smoke as light, I +hurriedly shifted my coat for a "jumper" or blouse, put on an old cap, +and climbed into the fresh air again. For a double reason, even MY +seasoned head was feeling bad with the villainous reek of the place, and +I did not want any of those hard-featured officers on deck to have +any cause to complain of my "hanging back." On board ship, especially +American ships, the first requisite for a sailor who wants to be treated +properly is to "show willing," any suspicion of slackness being noted +immediately, and the backward one marked accordingly. I had hardly +reached the deck when I was confronted by a negro, the biggest I ever +saw in, my life. He looked me up and down for a moment, then opening his +ebony features in a wide smile, he said, "Great snakes! why, here's a +sailor man for sure! Guess thet's so, ain't it, Johnny?" I said "yes" +very curtly, for I hardly liked his patronizing air; but he snapped me +up short with "yes, SIR, when yew speak to me, yew blank lime-juicer. +I'se de fourf mate ob dis yar ship, en my name's Mistah Jones, 'n yew, +jest freeze on to dat ar, ef yew want ter lib long'n die happy. See, +sonny." I SAW, and answered promptly, "I beg your pardon, sir, I didn't +know." "Ob cawse yew didn't know, dat's all right, little Britisher; +naow jest skip aloft 'n loose dat fore-taupsle." "Aye, aye, sir," I +answered cheerily, springing at once into the fore-rigging and up the +ratlines like a monkey, but not too fast to hear him chuckle, "Dat's a +smart kiddy, I bet." I had the big sail loose in double quick time, and +sung out "All gone, the fore-taupsle," before any of the other sails +were adrift. "Loose the to-gantsle and staysles" came up from below in a +voice like thunder, and I bounded up higher to my task. On deck I could +see a crowd at the windlass heaving up anchor. I said to myself, "They +don't waste any time getting this packet away." Evidently they were not +anxious to test any of the crew's swimming powers. They were wise, for +had she remained at anchor that night I verily believe some of the poor +wretches would have tried to escape. + +The anchor came aweigh, the sails were sheeted home, and I returned on +deck to find the ship gathering way for the heads, fairly started on her +long voyage. + +What a bear-garden the deck was, to be sure! The black portion of the +crew--Portuguese natives from the Western and Canary Islands--were doing +their work all right in a clumsy fashion; but the farmers, and bakers, +and draymen were being driven about mercilessly amid a perfect hurricane +of profanity and blows. And right here I must say that, accustomed as +I had always been to bad language all my life, what I now heard was a +revelation to me. I would not, if I could, attempt to give a sample +of it, but it must be understood that it was incessant throughout +the voyage. No order could be given without it, under the impression, +apparently, that the more curses the more speed. + +Before nightfall we were fairly out to sea, and the ceremony of dividing +the crew into watches was gone through. I found myself in the chief +mate's or "port" watch (they called it "larboard," a term I had never +heard used before, it having long been obsolete in merchant ships), +though the huge negro fourth mate seemed none too well pleased that +I was not under his command, his being the starboard watch under the +second mate. + +As night fell, the condition of the "greenies," or non-sailor portion of +the crew, was pitiable. Helpless from sea-sickness, not knowing where +to go or what to do, bullied relentlessly by the ruthless petty +officers--well, I never felt so sorry for a lot of men in my life. Glad +enough I was to get below into the fo'lk'sle for supper, and a brief +rest and respite from that cruelty on deck. A bit of salt junk and +a piece of bread, i.e. biscuit, flinty as a pantile, with a pot of +something sweetened with "longlick" (molasses), made an apology for a +meal, and I turned in. In a very few minutes oblivion came, making me as +happy as any man can be in this world. + + + + + +CHAPTER II. PREPARING FOR ACTION + +The hideous noise always considered necessary in those ships when +calling the watch, roused me effectively at midnight, "eight bells." +I hurried on deck, fully aware that no leisurely ten minutes would be +allowed here. "Lay aft the watch," saluted me as I emerged into the keen +strong air, quickening my pace according to where the mate stood waiting +to muster his men. As soon as he saw me, he said, "Can you steer?" in +a mocking tone; but when I quietly answered, "Yes, sir," his look of +astonishment was delightful to see. He choked it down, however, and +merely telling me to take the wheel, turned forrard roaring frantically +for his watch. I had no time to chuckle over what I knew was in store +for him, getting those poor greenies collected from their several holes +and corners, for on taking the wheel I found a machine under my hands +such as I never even heard of before. + +The wheel was fixed upon the tiller in such a manner that the whole +concern travelled backwards and forwards across the deck in the maddest +kind of way. For the first quarter of an hour, in spite of the September +chill, the sweat poured off me in streams. And the course--well, if was +not steering, it was sculling; the old bumboat was wobbling all +around like a drunken tailor with two left legs. I fairly shook with +apprehension lest the mate should come and look in the compass. I had +been accustomed to hard words if I did not steer within half a point +each way; but here was a "gadget" that worked me to death, the result +being a wake like a letter S. Gradually I got the hang of the thing, +becoming easier in my mind on my own account. Even that was not an +unmixed blessing, for I had now some leisure to listen to the goings-on +around the deck. + +Such brutality I never witnessed before. On board of English ships +(except men-of-war) there is practically no discipline, which is bad, +but this sort of thing was maddening. I knew how desperately ill all +those poor wretches were, how helpless and awkward they would be if +quite hale and hearty; but there was absolutely no pity for them, the +officers seemed to be incapable of any feelings of compassion whatever. +My heart sank within me as I thought of what lay before me, although +I did not fear that their treatment would also be mine, since I was +at least able to do my duty, and willing to work hard to keep out of +trouble. Then I began to wonder what sort of voyage I was in for, how +long it would last, and what my earnings were likely to be, none of +which things I had the faintest idea of. + +Fortunately, I was alone in the world. No one, as far as I knew, cared +a straw what became of me; so that I was spared any worry on that head. +And I had also a very definite and well-established trust in God, which +I can now look back and see was as fully justified as I then believed +it to be. So, as I could not shut my ears to the cruelties being carried +on, nor banish thought by hard work, I looked up to the stately stars, +thinking of things not to be talked about without being suspected of +cant. So swiftly passed the time that when four bells struck: (two +o'clock) I could hardly believe my ears. + +I was relieved by one of the Portuguese, and went forward to witness a +curious scene. Seven stalwart men were being compelled to march up and +down on that tumbling deck, men who had never before trodden anything +less solid than the earth. + +The third mate, a waspish, spiteful little Yankee with a face like an +angry cat, strolled about among them, a strand of rope-yarns in his +hand, which he wielded constantly, regardless where he struck a man. +They fell about, sometimes four or five at once, and his blows flew +thick and fast, yet he never seemed to weary of his ill-doing. It made +me quite sick, and I longed to be aft at the wheel again. Catching sight +of me standing irresolute as to what I had better do, he ordered me on +the "look-out," a tiny platform between the "knight heads," just where +the bowsprit joins the ship. Gladly I obeyed him, and perched up there +looking over the wide sea, the time passed quickly away until eight +bells (four o'clock) terminated my watch. I must pass rapidly over the +condition of things in the fo'lk'sle, where all the greenies that were +allowed below, were groaning in misery from the stifling atmosphere +which made their sickness so much worse, while even that dreadful +place was preferable to what awaited them on deck. There was a +rainbow-coloured halo round the flame of the lamp, showing how very bad +the air was; but in spite of that I turned in and slept soundly till +seven bells (7.20 a.m.) roused us to breakfast. + +American ships generally have an excellent name for the way they feed +their crews, but the whalers are a notable exception to that good rule. +The food was really worse than that on board any English ship I have +ever sailed in, so scanty also in quantity that it kept all the foremast +hands at starvation point. But grumbling was dangerous, so I gulped down +the dirty mixture mis-named coffee, ate a few fragments of biscuit, and +filled up (?) with a smoke, as many better men are doing this morning. +As the bell struck I hurried on deck--not one moment too soon--for as +I stepped out of the scuttle I saw the third mate coming forward with a +glitter in his eye that boded no good to laggards. + +Before going any farther I must apologize for using so many capital I's, +but up till the present I had been the only available white member of +the crew forrard. + +The decks were scrubbed spotlessly clean, and everything was neat and +tidy as on board a man-of-war, contrary to all usual notions of the +condition of a whaler. The mate was in a state of high activity, so +I soon found myself very busily engaged in getting up whale-lines, +harpoons, and all the varied equipment for the pursuit of whales. The +number of officers carried would have been a good crew for the ship, the +complete afterguard comprising captain, four mates, four harpooners or +boat-steerers, carpenter, cooper, steward and cook. All these worthies +were on deck and working with might and main at the preparations, so +that the incompetence of the crowd forrard was little hindrance. I was +pounced upon by "Mistah" Jones, the fourth mate, whom I heard addressed +familiarly as "Goliath" and "Anak" by his brother officers, and ordered +to assist him in rigging the "crow's-nest" at the main royal-mast head. +It was a simple affair. There were a pair of cross-trees fitted to the +mast, upon which was secured a tiny platform about a foot wide on each +side of the mast, while above this foothold a couple of padded hoops +like a pair of giant spectacles were secured at a little higher than +a man's waist. When all was fast one could creep up on the platform, +through the hoop, and, resting his arms upon the latter, stand +comfortably and gaze around, no matter how vigorously the old +barky plunged and kicked beneath him. From that lofty eyrie I had +a comprehensive view of the vessel. She was about 350 tons and full +ship-rigged, that is to say, she carried square sails on all three +masts. Her deck was flush fore and aft, the only obstructions being the +brick-built "try-works" in the waist, the galley, and cabin skylight +right aft by the taffrail. Her bulwarks were set thickly round with +clumsy looking wooden cranes, from which depended five boats. Two more +boats were secured bottom up upon a gallows aft, so she seemed to be +well supplied in that direction. Mistah Jones, finding I did not presume +upon his condescension, gradually unbent and furnished me with many +interesting facts about the officers. Captain Slocum, he said, was "de +debbil hisself, so jess yew keeps yer lamps trim' fer him, sonny, taint +helthy ter rile him." The first officer, or the mate as he is always +called PAR EXCELLENCE, was an older man than the captain, but a good +seaman, a good whaleman, and a gentleman. Which combination I found to +be a fact, although hard to believe possible at the time. The second +mate was a Portuguese about forty years of age, with a face like one of +Vandyke's cavaliers, but as I now learned, a perfect fiend when angered. +He also was a first-class whaleman, but an indifferent seaman. The third +mate was nothing much but bad temper--not much sailor, nor much whaler, +generally in hot water with the skipper, who hated him because he was an +"owner's man." "An de fourf mate," wound up the narrator, straightening +his huge bulk, "am de bes' man in de ship, and de bigges'. Dey aint +no whalemen in Noo Bedford caynt teach ME nuffin, en ef it comes ter +man-handlin'; w'y I jes' pick 'em two't a time 'n crack 'em togerrer +like so, see!" and he smote the palms of his great paws against each +other, while I nodded complete assent. + +The weather being fine, with a steady N.E. wind blowing, so that the +sails required no attention, work proceeded steadily all the morning. +The oars were sorted, examined for flaws, and placed in the boats; the +whale-line, manilla rope like yellow silk, 1 1/2 inch round, was brought +on deck, stretched and coiled down with the greatest care into tubs, +holding, some 200 fathoms, and others 100 fathoms each. New harpoons +were fitted to poles of rough but heavy wood, without any attempt at +neatness, but every attention to strength. The shape of these weapons +was not, as is generally thought, that of an arrow, but rather like an +arrow with one huge barb, the upper part of which curved out from the +shaft. The whole of the barb turned on a stout pivot of steel, but was +kept in line with the shaft by a tiny wooden peg which passed through +barb and shaft, being then cut off smoothly on both sides. The point +of the harpoon had at one side a wedge-shaped edge, ground to razor +keenness, the other side was flat. The shaft, about thirty inches long, +was of the best malleable iron, so soft that it would tie into a knot +and straighten out again without fracture. Three harpoons, or "irons" as +they were always called, were placed in each boat, fitted one above the +other in the starboard bow, the first for use being always one unused +before, Opposite to them in the boat were fitted three lances for the +purpose of KILLING whales, the harpoons being only the means by which +the boat was attached to a fish, and quite useless to inflict a fatal +wound. These lances were slender spears of malleable iron about four +feet long, with oval or heart-shaped points of fine steel about two +inches broad, their edges kept keen as a surgeon's lancet. By means of +a socket at the other end they were attached to neat handles, or +"lance-poles," about as long again, the whole weapon being thus about +eight feet in length, and furnished with a light line, or "lance-warp," +for the purpose of drawing it back again when it had been darted at a +whale. + +Each boat was fitted with a centre-board, or sliding keel, which was +drawn up, when not in use, into a case standing in the boat's middle, +very much in the way. But the American whalemen regard these clumsy +contrivances as indispensable, so there's an end on't. The other +furniture of a boat comprised five oars of varying lengths from sixteen +to nine feet, one great steering oar of nineteen feet, a mast and two +sails of great area for so small a craft, spritsail shape; two tubs of +whale-line containing together 1800 feet, a keg of drinking water, and +another long narrow one with a few biscuits, a lantern, candles and +matches therein; a bucket and "piggin" for baling, a small spade, a flag +or "wheft," a shoulder bomb-gun and ammunition, two knives and two small +axes. A rudder hung outside by the stern. + +With all this gear, although snugly stowed, a boat looked so loaded that +I could not help wondering how six men would be able to work in her; but +like most "deep-water" sailors, I knew very little about boating. I was +going to learn. + +All this work and bustle of preparation was so rapidly carried on, and +so interesting, that before supper-time everything was in readiness to +commence operations, the time having gone so swiftly that I could hardly +believe the bell when it sounded four times, six o'clock. + + + + + +CHAPTER III. FISHING BEGINS + +During all the bustle of warlike preparation that had been going on, +the greenhorns had not suffered from inattention on the part of those +appointed to look after them. Happily for them, the wind blew steadily, +and the weather, thanks to the balmy influence of the Gulf Stream, was +quite mild and genial. The ship was undoubtedly lively, as all good +sea-boats are, but her motions were by no means so detestable to a +sea-sick man as those of a driving steamer. So, in spite of their +treatment, perhaps because of it, some of the poor fellows were +beginning to take hold of things "man-fashion," although of course sea +legs they had none, their getting about being indeed a pilgrimage of +pain. Some of them were beginning to try the dreadful "grub" (I cannot +libel "food" by using it in such a connection), thereby showing that +their interest in life, even such a life as was now before them, was +returning. They had all been allotted places in the various boats, +intermixed with the seasoned Portuguese in such a way that the officer +and harpooner in charge would not be dependant upon them entirely in +case of a sudden emergency. Every endeavour was undoubtedly made to +instruct them in their duties, albeit the teachers were all too apt +to beat their information in with anything that came to hand, and +persuasion found no place in their methods. + +The reports I had always heard of the laziness prevailing on board +whale-ships were now abundantly falsified. From dawn to dark work went +on without cessation. Everything was rubbed and scrubbed and scoured +until no speck or soil could be found; indeed, no gentleman's yacht or +man-of-war is kept more spotlessly clean than was the CACHALOT. + +A regular and severe routine of labour was kept up; and, what was most +galling to me, instead of a regular four hours' watch on and off, night +and day, all hands were kept on deck the whole day long, doing quite +unnecessary tasks, apparently with the object of preventing too much +leisure and consequent brooding over their unhappy lot. One result of +this continual drive and tear was that all these landsmen became rapidly +imbued with the virtues of cleanliness, which was extended to the den in +which we lived, or I verily believe sickness would have soon thinned us +out. + +On the fourth day after leaving port we were all busy as usual except +the four men in the "crow's-nests," when a sudden cry of "Porps! porps!" +brought everything to a standstill. A large school of porpoises had just +joined us, in their usual clownish fashion, rolling and tumbling around +the bows as the old barky wallowed along, surrounded by a wide ellipse +of snowy foam. All work was instantly suspended, and active preparations +made for securing a few of these frolicsome fellows. A "block," or +pulley, was hung out at the bowsprit end, a whale-line passed through +it and "bent" (fastened) on to a harpoon. Another line with a running +"bowline," or slip-noose, was also passed out to the bowsprit end, being +held there by one man in readiness. Then one of the harpooners ran out +along the backropes, which keep the jib-boom down, taking his stand +beneath the bowsprit with the harpoon ready. Presently he raised his +iron and followed the track of a rising porpoise with its point until +the creature broke water. At the same instant the weapon left his grasp, +apparently without any force behind it; but we on deck, holding the +line, soon found that our excited hauling lifted a big vibrating body +clean out of the smother beneath. "'Vast hauling!" shouted the mate, +while as the porpoise hung dangling, the harpooner slipped the ready +bowline over his body, gently closing its grip round the "small" by the +broad tail. Then we hauled on the noose-line, slacking away the harpoon, +and in a minute had our prize on deck. He was dragged away at once and +the operation repeated. Again and again we hauled them in, until the +fore part of the deck was alive with the kicking, writhing sea-pigs, at +least twenty of them. I had seen an occasional porpoise caught at +sea before, but never more than one at a time. Here, however, was a +wholesale catch. At last one of the harpooned ones plunged so furiously +while being hauled up that he literally tore himself off the iron, +falling, streaming with blood, back into the sea. + +Away went all the school after him, tearing at him with their long +well-toothed jaws, some of them leaping high in the air in their +eagerness to get their due share of the cannibal feast. Our fishing was +over for that time. Meanwhile one of the harpooners had brought out +a number of knives, with which all hands were soon busy skinning the +blubber from the bodies. Porpoises have no skin, that is hide, the +blubber or coating of lard which encases them being covered by a black +substance as thin as tissue paper. The porpoise hide of the boot maker +is really leather, made from the skin of the BELUGA, or "white whale," +which is found only in the far north. The cover was removed from the +"tryworks" amidships, revealing two gigantic pots set in a frame of +brickwork side by side, capable of holding 200 gallons each. Such a +cooking apparatus as might have graced a Brobdingnagian kitchen. Beneath +the pots was the very simplest of furnaces, hardly as elaborate as the +familiar copper-hole sacred to washing day. Square funnels of sheet-iron +were loosely fitted to the flues, more as a protection against the oil +boiling over into the fire than to carry away the smoke, of which from +the peculiar nature of the fuel there was very little. At one side of +the try-works was a large wooden vessel, or "hopper," to contain the raw +blubber; at the other, a copper cistern or cooler of about 300 gallons +capacity, into which the prepared oil was baled to cool off, preliminary +to its being poured into the casks. Beneath the furnaces was a space as +large as the whole area of the try-works, about a foot deep, which, when +the fires were lighted, was filled with water to prevent the deck from +burning. + +It may be imagined that the blubber from our twenty porpoises made but +a poor show in one of the pots; nevertheless, we got a barrel of very +excellent oil from them. The fires were fed with "scrap," or pieces +of blubber from which the oil had been boiled, some of which had been +reserved from the previous voyage. They burnt with a fierce and steady +blaze, leaving but a trace of ash. I was then informed by one of the +harpooners that no other fuel was ever used for boiling blubber at any +time, there being always amply sufficient for the purpose. + +The most interesting part of the whole business, though, to us poor +half-starved wretches, was the plentiful supply of fresh meat. Porpoise +beef is, when decently cooked, fairly good eating to a landsman; judge, +then, what it must have been to us. Of course the tit-bits, such as the +liver, kidneys, brains, etc., could not possibly fall to our lot; but +we did not complain, we were too thankful to get something eatable, and +enough of it. Moreover, although few sailors in English ships know it, +porpoise beef improves vastly by keeping, getting tenderer every day the +longer it hangs, until at last it becomes as tasty a viand as one could +wish to dine upon. It was a good job for us that this was the case, +for while the porpoises lasted the "harness casks," or salt beef +receptacles, were kept locked; so if any man had felt unable to eat +porpoise--well, there was no compulsion, he could go hungry. + +We were now in the haunts of the Sperm Whale, or "Cachalot," a brilliant +look-out being continually kept for any signs of their appearing. One +officer and a foremast hand were continually on watch during the day +in the main crow's-nest, one harpooner and a seaman in the fore one. +A bounty of ten pounds of tobacco was offered to whoever should first +report a whale, should it be secured, consequently there were no sleepy +eyes up there. Of course none of those who were inexperienced stood much +chance against the eagle-eyed Portuguese; but all tried their best, +in the hope of perhaps winning some little favour from their hard +taskmasters. Every evening at sunset it was "all hands shorten sail," +the constant drill rapidly teaching even these clumsy landsmen how to +find their way aloft, and do something else besides hold on to anything +like grim death when they got there. + +At last, one beautiful day, the boats were lowered and manned, and away +went the greenies on their first practical lesson in the business of the +voyage. As before noticed, there were two greenies in each boat, they +being so arranged that whenever one of them "caught a crab," which of +course was about every other stroke, his failure made little difference +to the boat's progress. They learned very fast under the terrible +imprecations and storm of blows from the iron-fisted and iron-hearted +officers, so that before the day was out the skipper was satisfied of +our ability to deal with a "fish" should he be lucky enough to "raise" +one. I was, in virtue of my experience, placed at the after-oar in the +mate's boat, where it was my duty to attend to the "main sheet" when the +sail was set, where also I had the benefit of the lightest oar except +the small one used by the harpooner in the bow. + +The very next day after our first exhaustive boat drill, a school of +"Black Fish" was reported from aloft, with great glee the officers +prepared for what they considered a rattling day's fun. + +The Black Fish (PHOCAENA SP.) is a small toothed whale, not at all +unlike a miniature cachalot, except that its head is rounded at the +front, while its jaw is not long and straight, but bowed. It is as +frolicsome as the porpoise, gambolling about in schools of from twenty +to fifty or more, as if really delighted to be alive. Its average size +is from ten to twenty feet long, and seven or eight feet in girth, +weight from one to three tons. Blubber about three inches thick, while +the head is almost all oil, so that a good rich specimen will make +between one and two barrels of oil of medium quality. + +The school we were now in sight of was of middling size and about +average weight of individuals, and the officers esteemed it a fortunate +circumstance that we should happen across them as a sort of preliminary +to our tackling the monarchs of the deep. + +All the new harpoons were unshipped from the boats, and a couple of +extra "second" irons, as those that have been used are called, were put +into each boat for use if wanted. The sails were also left on board. We +lowered and left the ship, pulling right towards the school, the noise +they were making in their fun effectually preventing them from hearing +our approach. It is etiquette to allow the mate's boat first place, +unless his crew is so weak as to be unable to hold their own; but as the +mate always has first pick of the men this seldom happens. So, as usual, +we were first, and soon I heard the order given, "Stand up, Louey, and +let 'em have it!" Sure enough, here we were right among them. Louis let +drive, "fastening" a whopper about twenty feet long. The injured animal +plunged madly forward, accompanied by his fellows, while Louis calmly +bent another iron to a "short warp," or piece of whale-line, the loose +end of which he made a bowline with around the main line which was fast +to the "fish." Then he fastened another "fish," and the queer sight was +seen of these two monsters each trying to flee in opposite directions, +while the second one ranged about alarmingly as his "bridle" ran along +the main line. Another one was secured in the same way, then the game +was indeed great. The school had by this time taken the alarm and +cleared out, but the other boats were all fast to fish, so that didn't +matter. Now, at the rate our "game" were going it would evidently be +a long while before they died, although, being so much smaller than a +whale proper, a harpoon will often kill them at a stroke. Yet they were +now so tangled or "snarled erp," as the mate said, that it was no easy +matter to lance them without great danger of cutting the line. However, +we hauled up as close to them as we dared, and the harpooner got a good +blow in, which gave the biggest of the three "Jesse," as he said, though +why "Jesse" was a stumper. Anyhow, it killed him promptly, while almost +directly after another one saved further trouble by passing in his own +checks. But he sank at the same time, drawing the first one down with +him, so that we were in considerable danger of having to cut them adrift +or be swamped. The "wheft" was waved thrice as an urgent signal to the +ship to come to our assistance with all speed, but in the meantime our +interest lay in the surviving Black Fish keeping alive. Should HE die, +and, as was most probable, sink, we should certainly have to cut and +lose the lot, tools included. + +We waited in grim silence while the ship came up, so slowly, apparently, +that she hardly seemed to move, but really at a good pace of about four +knots an hour, which for her was not at all bad. She got alongside of us +at last, and we passed up the bight of our line, our fish all safe, very +much pleased with ourselves, especially when we found that the other +boats had only five between the three of them. + +The fish secured to the ship, all the boats were hoisted except one, +which remained alongside to sling the bodies. During our absence the +ship-keepers had been busy rigging one of the cutting falls, an immense +fourfold tackle from the main lowermast-head, of four-inch rope through +great double blocks, large as those used at dockyards for lifting ships' +masts and boilers. Chain-slings were passed around the carcases, which +gripped the animal at the "small," being prevented from slipping off by +the broad spread of the tail. The end of the "fall," or tackle-rope, +was then taken to the windlass, and we hove away cheerily, lifting the +monsters right on deck. A mountainous pile they made. A short spell was +allowed, when the whole eight were on board, for dinner; then all hands +turned to again to "flench" the blubber, and prepare for trying-out. +This was a heavy job, keeping all hands busy until it was quite +dark, the latter part of the work being carried on by the light of +a "cresset," the flames of which were fed with "scrap," which blazed +brilliantly, throwing a big glare over all the ship. The last of the +carcases was launched overboard by about eight o'clock that evening, but +not before some vast junks of beef had been cut off and hung up in the +rigging for our food supply. + +The try-works were started again, "trying-out" going on busily all +night, watch and watch taking their turn at keeping the pots supplied +with minced blubber. The work was heavy, while the energetic way in +which it was carried on made us all glad to take what rest was allowed +us, which was scanty enough, as usual. + +By nightfall the next day the ship had resumed her normal appearance, +and we were a tun and a quarter of oil to the good. Black Fish oil is of +medium quality, but I learned that, according to the rule of "roguery +in all trades," it was the custom to mix quantities such as we had just +obtained with better class whale-oil, and thus get a much higher price +than it was really worth. + +Up till this time we had no sort of an idea as to where our first +objective might be, but from scraps of conversation I had overheard +among the harpooners, I gathered that we were making for the Cape +Verde Islands or the Acores, in the vicinity of which a good number +of moderate-sized sperm whales are often to be found. In fact, these +islands have long been a nursery for whale-fishers, because the cachalot +loves their steep-to shores, and the hardy natives, whenever and +wherever they can muster a boat and a little gear, are always ready to +sally forth and attack the unwary whale that ventures within their ken. +Consequently more than half of the total crews of the American whaling +fleet are composed of these islanders. Many of them have risen to the +position of captain, and still more are officers and harpooners; +but though undoubtedly brave and enterprising, they are cruel and +treacherous, and in positions of authority over men of Teutonic or +Anglo-Saxon origin, are apt to treat their subordinates with great +cruelty. + + + + + +CHAPTER IV. BAD WEATHER + +Nautical routine in its essential details is much the same in all ships, +whether naval, merchant, or whaling vessels. But while in the ordinary +merchantman there are decidedly "no more cats than can catch mice," +hardly, indeed, sufficient for all the mousing that should be done, in +men-of-war and whaleships the number of hands carried, being far more +than are wanted for everyday work, must needs be kept at unnecessary +duties in order that they may not grow lazy and discontented. + +For instance, in the CACHALOT we carried a crew of thirty-seven all +told, of which twenty-four were men before the mast, or common seamen, +our tonnage being under 400 tons. Many a splendid clipper-ship carrying +an enormous spread of canvas on four masts, and not overloaded with 2500 +tons of cargo on board, carries twenty-eight or thirty all told, or even +less than that. As far as we were concerned, the result of this was that +our landsmen got so thoroughly drilled, that within a week of leaving +port they hardly knew themselves for the clumsy clodhoppers they at +first appeared to be. + +We had now been eight days out, and in our leisurely way were making +fair progress across the Atlantic, having had nothing, so far, but +steady breezes and fine weather. As it was late autumn the first week +in October--I rather wondered at this, for even in my brief experience I +had learned to dread a "fall" voyage across the "Western Ocean." + +Gradually the face of the sky changed, and the feel of the air, from +balmy and genial, became raw and cheerless. The little wave tops broke +short off and blew backwards, apparently against the wind, while the +old vessel had an uneasy, unnatural motion, caused by a long, new swell +rolling athwart the existing set of the sea. Then the wind became fitful +and changeable, backing half round the compass, and veering forward +again as much in an hour, until at last in one tremendous squall +it settled in the N.W. for a business-like blow, Unlike the hurried +merchantman who must needs "hang on" till the last minute, only +shortening the sail when absolutely compelled to do so, and at the first +sign of the gales relenting, piling it on again, we were all snug long +before the storm burst upon us, and now rode comfortably under the +tiniest of storm staysails. + +We were evidently in for a fair specimen of Western Ocean weather, but +the clumsy-looking, old-fashioned CACHALOT made no more fuss over it +than one of the long-winged sea-birds that floated around, intent only +upon snapping up any stray scraps that might escape from us. Higher rose +the wind, heavier rolled the sea, yet never a drop of water did we ship, +nor did anything about the deck betoken what a heavy gale was blowing. +During the worst of the weather, and just after the wind had shifted +back into the N.E., making an uglier cross sea than ever get up, +along comes an immense four-masted iron ship homeward bound. She was +staggering under a veritable mountain of canvas, fairly burying her bows +in the foam at every forward drive, and actually wetting the clews of +the upper topsails in the smothering masses of spray, that every few +minutes almost hid her hull from sight. + +It was a splendid picture; but--for the time--I felt glad I was not on +board of her. In a very few minutes she was out of our ken, followed +by the admiration of all. Then came, from the other direction, a huge +steamship, taking no more notice of the gale than as if it were calm. +Straight through the sea she rushed, dividing the mighty rollers to the +heart, and often bestriding three seas at once, the centre one spreading +its many tons of foaming water fore and aft, so that from every orifice +spouted the seething brine. Compared with these greyhounds of the wave, +we resembled nothing so much as some old lightship bobbing serenely +around, as if part and parcel of the mid-Atlantic. + +Our greenies were getting so well seasoned by this time that even this +rough weather did not knock any of them over, and from that time forward +they had no more trouble from sea-sickness. + +The gale gradually blew itself out, leaving behind only a long and very +heavy swell to denote the deep-reaching disturbance that the ocean had +endured. And now we were within the range of the Sargasso Weed, that +mysterious FUCUS that makes the ocean look. like some vast hayfield, and +keeps the sea from rising, no matter how high the wind. It fell a dead +calm, and the harpooners amused themselves by dredging up great masses +of the weed, and turning out the many strange creatures abiding therein. +What a world of wonderful life the weed is, to be sure! In it the +flying fish spawn and the tiny cuttle-fish breed, both of them preparing +bounteous provision for the larger denizens of the deep that have +no other food. Myriads of tiny crabs and innumerable specimens of +less-known shell-fish, small fish of species as yet unclassified in +any work on natural history, with jelly-fish of every conceivable and +inconceivable shape, form part of this great and populous country in the +sea. At one haul there was brought on board a mass of flying-fish spawn, +about ten pounds in weight, looking like nothing so much as a pile of +ripe white currants, and clinging together in a very similar manner. + +Such masses of ova I had often seen cast up among the outlying rocks on +the shores of the Caribbean Sea, when as a shipwrecked lad I wandered +idly about unburying turtle eggs from their snug beds in the warm sand, +and chasing the many-hued coral fish from one hiding-place to another. + +While loitering in these smooth waters, waiting for the laggard wind, up +came a shoal of dolphin, ready as at all times to attach themselves for +awhile to the ship. Nothing is more singular than the manner in +which deep-sea fish will accompany a vessel that is not going too +fast--sometimes for days at a time. Most convenient too, and providing +hungry Jack with many a fresh mess he would otherwise have missed. Of +all these friendly fish, none is better known than the "dolphin," as +from long usage sailors persist in calling them, and will doubtless do +so until the end of the chapter. For the true dolphin (DELPHINIDAE) is +not a fish at all, but a mammal a warm-blooded creature that suckles +its young, and in its most familiar form is known to most people as +the porpoise. The sailor's "dolphin," on the other hand, is a veritable +fish, with vertical tail fin instead of the horizontal one which +distinguishes all the whale family, scales and gills. + +It is well known to literature, under its sea-name, for its marvellous +brilliancy of colour, and there are few objects more dazzling than a +dolphin leaping out of a calm sea into the sunshine. The beauty of +a dying dolphin, however, though sanctioned by many generations of +writers, is a delusion, all the glory of the fish departing as soon as +he is withdrawn from his native element. + +But this habit of digression grows upon one, and I must do my best to +check it, or I shall never get through my task. + +To resume then: when this school of dolphin (I can't for the life of me +call them CORIPHAENA HIPPURIS) came alongside, a rush was made for the +"granes"--a sort of five-pronged trident, if I may be allowed a baby +bull. It was universally agreed among the fishermen that trying a hook +and line was only waste of time and provocative of profanity! since +every sailor knows that all the deep-water big fish require a living or +apparently living bait. The fish, however, sheered off, and would not be +tempted within reach of that deadly fork by any lure. Then did I cover +myself with glory. For he who can fish cleverly and luckily may be sure +of fairly good times in a whaler, although he may be no great things +at any other work. I had a line of my own, and begging one of the small +fish that had been hauled up in the Gulf weed, I got permission to go +aft and fish over the taffrail. The little fish was carefully secured +on the hook, the point of which just protruded near his tail. Then I +lowered him into the calm blue waters beneath, and paid out line very +gently, until my bait was a silvery spot about a hundred feet astern. +Only a very short time, and my hopes rose as I saw one bright gleam +after another glide past the keel, heading aft. Then came a gentle +drawing at the line, which I suffered to slip slowly through my fingers +until I judged it time to try whether I was right or wrong, A long hard +pull, and my heart beat fast as I felt the thrill along the line that +fishermen love. None of your high art here, but haul in hand over hand, +the line being strong enough to land a 250 pound fish. Up he came, the +beauty, all silver and scarlet and blue, five feet long if an inch, and +weighing 35 pounds. Well, such a lot of astonished men I never saw. They +could hardly believe their eyes. That such a daring innovation should +be successful was hardly to be believed, even with the vigorous evidence +before them. Even grim Captain Slocum came to look and turned upon me +as I thought a less lowering brow than usual, while Mr. Count, the mate, +fairly chuckled again at the thought of how the little Britisher had +wiped the eyes of these veteran fishermen. The captive was cut open, +and two recent flying-fish found in his maw, which were utilized for +new bait, with the result that there was a cheerful noise of hissing and +spluttering in the galley soon after, and a mess of fish for all hands. + +Shortly afterwards a fresh breeze sprang up, which proved to be the +beginning of the N.E. trades, and fairly guaranteed us against any very +bad weather for some time to come. + +Somehow or other it had leaked out that we were to cruise the Cape Verd +Islands for a spell before working south, and the knowledge seemed to +have quite an enlivening effect upon our Portuguese shipmates. + +Most of them belonged there, and although there was but the faintest +prospect of their getting ashore upon any pretext whatever, the +possibility of seeing their island homes again seemed to quite transform +them. Hitherto they had been very moody and exclusive, never associating +with us on the white side, or attempting to be at all familiar. A mutual +atmosphere of suspicion, in fact, seemed to pervade our quarters, making +things already uncomfortable enough, still more so. Now, however, they +fraternized with us, and in a variety of uncouth ways made havoc of the +English tongue, as they tried to impress us with the beauty, fertility +and general incomparability of their beloved Cape Verds. Of the eleven +white men besides myself in the forecastle, there were a middle-aged +German baker, who had bolted from Buffalo; two Hungarians, who looked +like noblemen disguised--in dirt; two slab-sided Yankees of about 22 +from farms in Vermont; a drayman from New York; a French Canadian +from the neighbourhood of Quebec; two Italians from Genoa; and two +nondescripts that I never found out the origin of. Imagine, then, the +babel of sound, and think--but no, it is impossible to think, what sort +of a jargon was compounded of all these varying elements of language. + +One fortunate thing, there was peace below. Indeed, the spirit seemed +completely taken out of all of them, and by some devilish ingenuity +the afterguard had been able to sow distrust between them all, while +treating them like dogs, so that the miseries of their life were +never openly discussed. My position among them gave me at times some +uneasiness. Though I tried to be helpful to all, and was full of +sympathy for their undeserved sufferings, I could not but feel that they +would have been more than human had they not envied me my immunity from +the kicks and blows they all shared so impartially. However, there was +no help for it, so I went on as cheerily as I could. + +A peculiarity of all these vessels, as I afterwards learned, was that no +stated allowance of anything was made. Even the water was not served out +to us, but was kept in a great scuttle-butt by the cabin door, to which +every one who needed a drink had to go, and from which none might be +carried away. No water was allowed for washing except from the sea; and +every one knows, or should know, that neither flesh nor clothes can be +cleansed with that. But a cask with a perforated top was lashed by the +bowsprit and kept filled with urine, which I was solemnly assured by +Goliath was the finest dirt-extractor in the world for clothes. The +officers did not avail themselves of its virtues though, but were +content with lye, which was furnished in plenty by the ashes from the +galley fire, where nothing but wood was used as fuel. Of course when +rain fell we might have a good wash, if it was night and no other work +was toward; but we were not allowed to store any for washing purposes. +Another curious but absolutely necessary custom prevailed in consequence +of the short commons under which we lived. When the portion of meat +was brought down in its wooden kid, or tub, at dinner-time, it was duly +divided as fairly as possible into as many parts as there were mouths. +Then one man turned his back on the carver, who holding up each portion, +called out, "Who's this for?" Whatever name was mentioned by the +arbitrator, that man owning it received the piece, and had perforce to +be satisfied therewith. Thus justice was done to all in the only way +possible, and without any friction whatever. + +As some of us were without clothes except what we stood upright in, when +we joined, the "slop chest" was opened, and every applicant received +from the steward what Captain Slocum thought fit to let him have, being +debited with the cost against such wages as he might afterwards earn. +The clothes were certainly of fairly good quality, if the price was +high, and exactly suited to our requirements. Soap, matches, and tobacco +were likewise supplied on the same terms, but at higher prices than +I had ever heard of before for these necessaries. After much careful +inquiry I ascertained what, in the event of a successful voyage, we were +likely to earn. Each of us were on the two hundredth "lay" or share +at $200 per tun, which meant that for every two hundred barrels of oil +taken on board, we were entitled to one, which we must sell to the ship +at the rate of L40 per tun or L4 per barrel. Truly a magnificent outlook +for young men bound to such a business for three or four years. + + + + + +CHAPTER V. ACTUAL WARFARE. OUR FIRST WHALE + +Simultaneous ideas occurring to several people, or thought transference, +whatever one likes to call the phenomenon is too frequent an occurrence +in most of our experience to occasion much surprise. Yet on the occasion +to which I am about to refer, the matter was so very marked that few of +us who took part in the day's proceedings are ever likely to forget it. + +We were all gathered about the fo'lk'sle scuttle one evening, a few days +after the gale referred to in the previous chapter, and the question of +whale-fishing came up for discussion. Until that time, strange as it +may seem, no word of this, the central idea of all our minds, had been +mooted. Every man seemed to shun the subject, although we were in +daily expectation of being called upon to take an active part in +whale-fighting. Once the ice was broken, nearly all had something to say +about it, and very nearly as many addle-headed opinions were ventilated +as at a Colney Hatch debating society. For we none of us KNEW anything +about it. I was appealed to continually to support this or that theory, +but as far as whaling went I could only, like the rest of them, draw +upon my imagination for details. How did a whale act, what were the +first steps taken, what chance was there of being saved if your boat got +smashed, and so on unto infinity. At last, getting very tired of this +"Portugee Parliament" of all talkers and no listeners, I went aft to +get a drink of water before turning in. The harpooners and other petty +officers were grouped in the waist, earnestly discussing the pros and +cons of attack upon whales. As I passed I heard the mate's harpooner +say, "Feels like whale about. I bet a plug (of tobacco) we raise sperm +whale to-morrow." Nobody took his bet, for it appeared that they were +mostly of the same mind, and while I was drinking I heard the officers +in dignified conclave talking over the same thing. It was Saturday +evening, and while at home people were looking forward to a day's +respite from work and care, I felt that the coming day, though never +taken much notice of on board, was big with the probabilities of strife +such as I at least had at present no idea of. So firmly was I possessed +by the prevailing feeling. + +The night was very quiet. A gentle breeze was blowing, and the sky was +of the usual "Trade" character, that is, a dome of dark blue fringed at +the horizon with peaceful cumulus clouds, almost motionless. I turned +in at four a.m. from the middle watch and, as usual, slept like a babe. +Suddenly I started wide awake, a long mournful sound sending a thrill +to my very heart. As I listened breathlessly other sounds of the same +character but in different tones joined in, human voices monotonously +intoning in long drawn-out expirations the single word "bl-o-o-o-o-w." +Then came a hurricane of noise overhead, and adjurations in no gentle +language to the sleepers to "tumble up lively there, no skulking, sperm +whales." At last, then, fulfilling all the presentiments of yesterday, +the long dreaded moment had arrived. Happily there was no time for +hesitation, in less than two minutes we were all on deck, and hurrying +to our respective boats. There was no flurry or confusion, and except +that orders were given more quietly than usual, with a manifest air of +suppressed excitement, there was nothing to show that we were not +going for an ordinary course of boat drill. The skipper was in the main +crow's-nest with his binoculars presently he shouted, "Naow then, Mr. +Count, lower away soon's y'like. Small pod o'cows, an' one'r two bulls +layin' off to west'ard of 'em." Down went the boats into the water +quietly enough, we all scrambled in and shoved off. A stroke or two of +the oars were given to get clear of the ship, and one another, then oars +were shipped and up went the sails. As I took my allotted place at the +main-sheet, and the beautiful craft started off like some big bird, Mr. +Count leant forward, saying impressively to me, "Y'r a smart youngster, +an' I've kinder took t'yer; but don't ye look ahead an' get gallied, 'r +I'll knock ye stiff wi' th' tiller; y'hear me? N' don't ye dare to make +thet sheet fast, 'r ye'll die so sudden y' won't know whar y'r hurted." +I said as cheerfully as I could, "All right, sir," trying to look +unconcerned, telling myself not to be a coward, and all sorts of things; +but the cold truth is that I was scared almost to death because I +didn't know what was coming. However, I did the best thing under the +circumstances, obeyed orders and looked steadily astern, or up into the +bronzed impassive face of my chief, who towered above me, scanning +with eagle eyes the sea ahead. The other boats were coming flying along +behind us, spreading wider apart as they came, while in the bows of each +stood the harpooner with his right hand on his first iron, which +lay ready, pointing over the bow in a raised fork of wood called the +"crutch." + +All of a sudden, at a motion of the chief's hand, the peak of our +mainsail was dropped, and the boat swung up into the wind, laying +"hove to," almost stationary. The centre-board was lowered to stop her +drifting to leeward, although I cannot say it made much difference that +ever I saw. NOW what's the matter, I thought, when to my amazement the +chief addressing me said, "Wonder why we've hauled up, don't ye?" "Yes, +sir, I do," said I. "Wall," said he, "the fish hev sounded, an' 'ef we +run over 'em, we've seen the last ov'em. So we wait awhile till they +rise agin, 'n then we'll prob'ly git thar' 'r thareabonts before they +sound agin." With this explanation I had to be content, although if +it be no clearer to my readers than it then was to me, I shall have to +explain myself more fully later on. Silently we lay, rocking lazily upon +the gentle swell, no other word being spoken by any one. At last Louis, +the harpooner, gently breathed "blo-o-o-w;" and there, sure enough, +not half a mile away on the lee beam, was a little bushy cloud of steam +apparently rising from the sea. At almost the same time as we kept away +all the other boats did likewise, and just then, catching sight of the +ship, the reason for this apparently concerted action was explained. At +the main-mast head of the ship was a square blue flag, and the ensign +at the peak was being dipped. These were signals well understood and +promptly acted upon by those in charge of the boats, who were thus +guided from a point of view at least one hundred feet above the sea. + +"Stand up, Louey," the mate murmured softly. I only just stopped myself +in time from turning my head to see why the order was given. Suddenly +there was a bump, at the same moment the mate yelled, "Give't to him, +Louey, give't to him!" and to me, "Haul that main sheet, naow haul, why +don't ye?" I hauled it flat aft, and the boat shot up into the wind, +rubbing sides as she did so with what to my troubled sight seemed an +enormous mass of black india-rubber floating. As we CRAWLED up into the +wind, the whale went into convulsions befitting his size and energy. +He raised a gigantic tail on high, threshing the water with deafening +blows, rolling at the same time from side to side until the surrounding +sea was white with froth. I felt in an agony lest we should be crushed +under one of those fearful strokes, for Mr. Count appeared to be +oblivious of possible danger, although we seemed to be now drifting back +on to the writhing leviathan. In the agitated condition of the sea, it +was a task of no ordinary difficulty to unship the tall mast, which was +of course the first thing to be done. After a desperate struggle, and a +narrow escape from falling overboard of one of the men, we got the lone +"stick," with the sail bundled around it, down and "fleeted" aft, where +it was secured by the simple means of sticking the "heel" under the +after thwart, two-thirds of the mast extending out over the stern. +Meanwhile, we had certainly been in a position of the greatest danger, +our immunity from damage being unquestionably due to anything but +precaution taken to avoid it. + +By the time the oars were handled, and the mate had exchanged places +with the harpooner, our friend the enemy had "sounded," that is, he had +gone below for a change of scene, marvelling no doubt what strange thing +had befallen him. Agreeably to the accounts which I, like most boys, had +read of the whale fishery, I looked for the rushing of the line round +the logger-head (a stout wooden post built into the boat aft), to raise +a cloud of smoke with occasional bursts of flame; so as it began to +slowly surge round the post, I timidly asked the harpooner whether I +should throw any water on it. "Wot for?" growled he, as he took a couple +more turns with it. Not knowing "what for," and hardly liking to quote +my authorities here, I said no more, but waited events. "Hold him up, +Louey, bold him up, cain't ye?" shouted the mate, and to my horror, down +went the nose of the boat almost under water, while at the mate's order +everybody scrambled aft into the elevated stern sheets. + +The line sang quite a tune as it was grudgingly allowed to surge round +the loggerhead, filling one with admiration at the strength shown by +such a small rope. This sort of thing went on for about twenty minutes, +in which time we quite emptied the large tub and began on the small one. +As there was nothing whatever for us to do while this was going on, I +had ample leisure for observing the little game that was being played +about a quarter of a mile away. Mr. Cruce, the second mate, had got a +whale and was doing his best to kill it; but he was severely handicapped +by his crew, or rather had been, for two of them were now temporarily +incapable of either good or harm. They had gone quite "batchy" with +fright, requiring a not too gentle application of the tiller to their +heads in order to keep them quiet. The remedy, if rough, was effectual, +for "the subsequent proceedings interested them no more." Consequently +his manoeuvres were not so well or rapidly executed as he, doubtless, +could have wished, although his energy in lancing that whale was +something to admire and remember. Hatless, his shirt tail out of the +waist of his trousers streaming behind him like a banner, he lunged and +thrust at the whale alongside of him, as if possessed of a destroying +devil, while his half articulate yells of rage and blasphemy were +audible even to us. + +Suddenly our boat fell backward from her "slantindicular" position +with a jerk, and the mate immediately shouted, "Haul line, there! look +lively, now, you--so on, etcetera, etcetera" (he seemed to invent new +epithets on every occasion). The line came in hand over hand, and was +coiled in a wide heap in the stern sheets, for silky as it was, it could +not be expected in its wet state to lie very close. As it came flying +in the mate kept a close gaze upon the water immediately beneath us, +apparently for the first glimpse of our antagonist. When the whale broke +water, however, he was some distance off, and apparently as quiet as a +lamb. Now, had Mr. Count been a prudent or less ambitious man, our task +would doubtless have been an easy one, or comparatively so; but, being +a little over-grasping, he got us all into serious trouble. We were +hauling up to our whale in order to lance it, and the mate was standing, +lance in hand, only waiting to get near enough, when up comes a large +whale right alongside of our boat, so close, indeed, that I might have +poked my finger in his little eye, if I had chosen. The sight of that +whale at liberty, and calmly taking stock of us like that, was too much +for the mate. He lifted his lance and hurled it at the visitor, in +whose broad flank it sank, like a knife into butter, right up to the +pole-hitches. The recipient disappeared like a flash, but before one had +time to think, there was an awful crash beneath us, and the mate shot +up into the air like a bomb from a mortar. He came down in a sitting +posture on the mast-thwart; but as he fell, the whole framework of the +boat collapsed like a derelict umbrella. Louis quietly chopped the line +and severed our connection with the other whale, while in accordance +with our instructions we drew each man his oar across the boat and +lashed it firmly down with a piece of line spliced to each thwart for +the purpose. This simple operation took but a minute, but before it was +completed we were all up to our necks in the sea. Still in the boat, +it is true, and therefore not in such danger of drowning as if we were +quite adrift; but, considering that the boat was reduced to a mere +bundle of loose planks, I, at any rate, was none too comfortable. +Now, had he known it, was the whale's golden opportunity; but he, poor +wretch, had had quite enough of our company, and cleared off without any +delay, wondering, no doubt, what fortunate accident had rid him of our +very unpleasant attentions. + +I was assured that we were all as safe as if we were on board the +ship, to which I answered nothing; but, like Jack's parrot, I did some +powerful thinking. Every little wave that came along swept clean over +our heads, sometimes coming so suddenly as to cut a breath in half. If +the wind should increase--but no--I wouldn't face the possibility of +such a disagreeable thing. I was cool enough now in a double sense, for +although we were in the tropics, we soon got thoroughly chilled. + +By the position of the sun it must have been between ten a.m. and noon, +and we, of the crew, had eaten nothing since the previous day at supper, +when, as usual, the meal was very light. Therefore, I suppose we felt +the chill sooner than the better-nourished mate and harpooner, who +looked rather scornfully at our blue faces and chattering teeth. + +In spite of all assurances to the contrary, I have not the least doubt +in my own mind that a very little longer would have relieved us of ALL +our burdens finally. Because the heave of the sea had so loosened the +shattered planks upon which we stood that they were on the verge of +falling all asunder. Had they done so we must have drowned, for we +were cramped and stiff with cold and our constrained position. However, +unknown to us, a bright look-out upon our movements had been kept +from the crow's-nest the whole time. We should have been relieved long +before, but that the whale killed by the second mate was being secured, +and another boat, the fourth mate's, being picked up, having a hole in +her bilge you could put you head through. With all these hindrances, +especially securing the whale, we were fortunate to be rescued as +soon as we were, since it is well known that whales are of much higher +commercial value than men. + +However, help came at last, and we were hauled alongside. Long exposure +had weakened us to such an extent that it was necessary to hoist us on +board, especially the mate, whose "sudden stop," when he returned to +us after his little aerial excursion, had shaken his sturdy frame +considerably, a state of body which the subsequent soaking had by +no means improved. In my innocence I imagined that we should be +commiserated for our misfortunes by Captain Slocum, and certainly be +relieved from further duties until we were a little recovered from +the rough treatment we had just undergone. But I never made a greater +mistake. The skipper cursed us all (except the mate, whose sole fault +the accident undoubtedly was) with a fluency and vigour that was, to put +it mildly, discouraging. Moreover, we were informed that he "wouldn't +have no adjective skulking;" we must "turn to" and do something after +wasting the ship's time and property in such a blanked manner. There was +a limit, however, to our obedience, so although we could not move at all +for awhile, his threats were not proceeded with farther than theory. + +A couple of slings were passed around the boat, by means of which she +was carefully hoisted on board, a mere dilapidated bundle of sticks and +raffle of gear. She was at once removed aft out of the way, the business +of cutting in the whale claiming precedence over everything else just +then. The preliminary proceedings consisted of rigging the "cutting +stage." This was composed of two stout planks a foot wide and ten feet +long, the inner ends of which were suspended by strong ropes over the +ship's side about four feet from the water, while the outer extremities +were upheld by tackles from the main rigging, and a small crane abreast +the try-works. + +These planks were about thirty feet apart, their two outer ends being +connected by a massive plank which was securely bolted to them. A +handrail about as high as a man's waist, supported by light iron +stanchions, ran the full length of this plank on the side nearest the +ship, the whole fabric forming an admirable standing-place from whence +the officers might, standing in comparative comfort, cut and carve at +the great mass below to their hearts' content. + +So far the prize had been simply held alongside by the whale-line, which +at death had been "rove" through a hole cut in the solid gristle of the +tail; but now it became necessary to secure the carcase to the ship in +some more permanent fashion. Therefore, a massive chain like a small +ship's cable was brought forward, and in a very ingenious way, by means +of a tiny buoy and a hand-lead, passed round the body, one end brought +through a ring in the other, and hauled upon until it fitted tight round +the "small" or part of the whale next the broad spread of the tail. The +free end of the fluke-chain was then passed in through a mooring-pipe +forward, firmly secured to a massive bitt at the heel of the bowsprit +(the fluke-chain-bitt), and all was ready. + +But the subsequent proceedings were sufficiently complicated to demand a +fresh chapter. + + + + + +CHAPTER VI. "DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY" + +If in the preceding chapter too much stress has been laid upon the +smashing of our own boat and consequent sufferings, while little or no +notice was taken of the kindred disaster to Mistah Jones' vessel, my +excuse must be that the experience "filled me right up to the chin," as +the mate concisely, if inelegantly, put it. Poor Goliath was indeed to +be pitied, for his well-known luck and capacity as a whaleman seemed +on this occasion to have quite deserted him. Not only had his boat been +stove upon first getting on to the whale, but he hadn't even had a run +for his money. It appeared that upon striking his whale, a small, lively +cow, she had at once "settled," allowing the boat to run over her; but +just as they were passing, she rose, gently enough, her pointed hump +piercing the thin skin of half-inch cedar as if it had been cardboard. +She settled again immediately, leaving a hole behind her a foot long +by six inches wide, which effectually put a stop to all further fishing +operations on the part of Goliath and his merry men for that day, at any +rate. It was all so quiet, and so tame and so stupid, no wonder Mistah +Jones felt savage. When Captain Slocum's fluent profanity flickered +around him, including vehemently all he might be supposed to have any +respect for, he did not even LOOK as if he would like to talk back; he +only looked sick and tired of being himself. + +The third mate, again, was of a different category altogether. He had +distinguished himself by missing every opportunity of getting near a +whale while there was a "loose" one about, and then "saving" the crew of +Goliath's boat, who were really in no danger whatever. His iniquity was +too great to be dealt with by mere bad language. He crept about like a +homeless dog--much, I am afraid, to my secret glee, for I couldn't help +remembering his untiring cruelty to the green hands on first leaving +port. + +In consequence of these little drawbacks we were not a very jovial crowd +forrard or aft. Not that hilarity was ever particularly noticeable among +us, but just now there was a very decided sense of wrong-doing over us +all, and a general fear that each of us was about to pay the penalty due +to some other delinquent. But fortunately there was work to be done. +Oh, blessed work! how many awkward situations you have extricated people +from! How many distracted brains have you soothed and restored, by +your steady irresistible pressure of duty to be done and brooking of no +delay! + +The first thing to be done was to cut the whale's head off. This +operation, involving the greatest amount of labour in the whole of the +cutting in, was taken in hand by the first and second mates, who, armed +with twelve-feet spades, took their station upon the stage, leaned over +the handrail to steady themselves, and plunged their weapons vigorously +down through the massive neck of the animal--if neck it could be said to +have--following a well-defined crease in the blubber. At the same time +the other officers passed a heavy chain sling around the long, narrow +lower jaw, hooking one of the big cutting tackles into it, the "fall" of +which was then taken to the windlass and hove tight, turning the whale +on her back. A deep cut was then made on both sides of the rising jaw, +the windlass was kept going, and gradually the whole of the throat was +raised high enough for a hole to be cut through its mass, into which the +strap of the second cutting tackle was inserted and secured by passing +a huge toggle of oak through its eye. The second tackle was then hove +taut, and the jaw, with a large piece of blubber attached, was cut off +from the body with a boarding-knife, a tool not unlike a cutlass blade +set into a three-foot-long wooden handle. + +Upon being severed the whole piece swung easily inboard and was lowered +on deck. The fast tackle was now hove upon while the third mate on +the stage cut down diagonally into the blubber on the body, which the +purchase ripped off in a broad strip or "blanket" about five feet +wide and a foot thick. Meanwhile the other two officers carved away +vigorously at the head, varying their labours by cutting a hole right +through the snout. This when completed received a heavy chain for the +purpose of securing the head. When the blubber had been about half +stripped off the body, a halt was called in order that the work of +cutting off the head might be finished, for it was a task of incredible +difficulty. It was accomplished at last, and the mass floated astern +by a stout rope, after which the windlass pawls clattered merrily, the +"blankets" rose in quick succession, and were cut off and lowered into +the square of the main batch or "blubber-room." A short time sufficed to +strip off the whole of the body-blubber, and when at last the tail was +reached, the backbone was cut through, the huge mass of flesh floating +away to feed the innumerable scavengers of the sea. No sooner was the +last of the blubber lowered into the hold than the hatches were put on +and the head hauled up alongside. Both tackles were secured to it and +all hands took to the windlass levers. This was a small cow whale of +about thirty barrels, that is, yielding that amount of oil, so it was +just possible to lift the entire head on board; but as it weighed as +much as three full-grown elephants, it was indeed a heavy lift for even +our united forces, trying our tackle to the utmost. The weather was very +fine, and the ship rolled but little; even then, the strain upon the +mast was terrific, and right glad was I when at last the immense cube of +fat, flesh, and bone was eased inboard and gently lowered on deck. + +As soon as it was secured the work of dividing it began. From the snout +a triangular mass was cut, which was more than half pure spermaceti. +This substance was contained in spongy cells held together by layers +of dense white fibre, exceedingly tough and elastic, and called by the +whalers "white-horse." The whole mass, or "junk" as it is called, was +hauled away to the ship's side and firmly lashed to the bulwarks for the +time being, so that it might not "take charge" of the deck during the +rest of the operations. + +The upper part of the head was now slit open lengthwise, disclosing an +oblong cistern or "case" full of liquid spermaceti, clear as water. This +was baled out with buckets into a tank, concreting as it cooled into a +wax-like substance, bland and tasteless. There being now nothing more +remaining about the skull of any value, the lashings were loosed, and +the first leeward roll sent the great mass plunging overboard with a +mighty splash. It sank like a stone, eagerly followed by a few small +sharks that were hovering near. + +As may be imagined, much oil was running about the deck, for so +saturated was every part of the creature with it that it really gushed +like water during the cutting-up process. None of it was allowed to run +to waste, though, for the scupper-holes which drain the deck were all +carefully plugged, and as soon as the "junk" had been dissected all the +oil was carefully "squeegeed" up and poured into the try-pots. + +Two men were now told off as "blubber-room men," whose duty it became +to go below, and squeezing themselves in as best they could between +the greasy masses of fat, cut it up into "horse-pieces" about eighteen +inches long and six inches square. Doing this they became perfectly +saturated with oil, as if they had taken a bath in a tank of it; for +as the vessel rolled it was impossible to maintain a footing, and +every fall was upon blubber running with oil. A machine of wonderful +construction had been erected on deck in a kind of shallow trough about +six feet long by four feet wide and a foot deep. At some remote period +of time it had no doubt been looked upon as a triumph of ingenuity, +a patent mincing machine. Its action was somewhat like that of a +chaff-cutter, except that the knife was not attached to the wheel, and +only rose and fell, since it was not required to cut right through the +"horse-pieces" with which it was fed. It will be readily understood +that in order to get the oil quickly out of the blubber, it needs to be +sliced as thin as possible, but for convenience in handling the refuse +(which is the only fuel used) it is not chopped up in small pieces, but +every "horse-piece" is very deeply scored as it were, leaving a thin +strip to hold the slices together. This then was the order of work. Two +harpooners attended the try-pots, replenishing them with minced blubber +from the hopper at the port side, and baling out the sufficiently +boiled oil into the great cooling tank on the starboard. One officer +superintended the mincing, another exercised a general supervision over +all. There was no man at the wheel and no look-out, for the vessel was +"hove-to" under two close-reefed topsails and fore-topmast-staysail, +with the wheel lashed hard down. A look-out man was unnecessary, since +we could not run anybody down, and if anybody ran us down, it would only +be because all hands were asleep, for the glare of our try-works fire, +to say nothing of the blazing cresset before mentioned, could have been +seen for many miles. So we toiled watch and watch, six hours on and six +off, the work never ceasing for an instant night or day. Though the +work was hard and dirty, and the discomfort of being so continually wet +through with oil great, there was only one thing dangerous about the +whole business. That was the job of filling and shifting the huge casks +of oil. Some of these were of enormous size, containing 350 gallons when +full, and the work of moving them about the greasy deck of a rolling +ship was attended with a terrible amount of risk. For only four men at +most could get fair hold of a cask, and when she took it into her silly +old hull to start rolling, just as we had got one half-way across +the deck, with nothing to grip your feet, and the knowledge that one +stumbling man would mean a sudden slide of the ton and a half weight, +and a little heap of mangled corpses somewhere in the lee scuppers--well +one always wanted to be very thankful when the lashings were safely +passed. + +The whale being a small one, as before noted, the whole business was +over within three days, and the decks scrubbed and re-scrubbed until +they had quite regained their normal whiteness. The oil was poured by +means of a funnel and long canvas hose into the casks stowed in the +ground tier at the bottom of the ship, and the gear, all carefully +cleaned and neatly "stopped up," stowed snugly away below again. + +This long and elaborate process is quite different from that followed +on board the Arctic whaleships, whose voyages are of short duration, +and who content themselves with merely cutting the blubber up small and +bringing it home to have the oil expressed. But the awful putrid mass +discharged from a Greenlander's hold is of very different quality and +value, apart from the nature of the substance, to the clear and sweet +oil, which after three years in cask is landed from a south-seaman as +inoffensive in smell and flavour as the day it was shipped. No attempt +is made to separate the oil and spermaceti beyond boiling the "head +matter," as it is called, by itself first, and putting it into casks +which are not filled up with the body oil. Spermaceti exists in all +the oil, especially that from the dorsal hump; but it is left for +the refiners ashore to extract and leave the oil quite free from any +admixture of the wax-like substance, which causes it to become solid at +temperatures considerably above the freezing-point. + +Uninteresting as the preceding description may be, it is impossible to +understand anything of the economy of a south-sea whaler without giving +it, and I have felt it the more necessary because of the scanty notice +given to it in the only two works published on the subject, both of them +highly technical, and written for scientific purposes by medical men. +Therefore I hope to be forgiven if I have tried the patience of my +readers by any prolixity. + +It will not, of course, have escaped the reader's notice that I have not +hitherto attempted to give any details concerning the structure of the +whale just dealt with. The omission is intentional. During this, our +first attempt at real whaling, my mind was far too disturbed by the +novelty and danger of the position in which I found myself for the first +time, for me to pay any intelligent attention to the party of the second +part. + +But I may safely promise that from the workman's point of view, the +habits, manners, and build of the whales shall be faithfully described +as I saw them during my long acquaintance with them, earnestly hoping +that if my story be not as technical or scientific as that of Drs. +Bennett and Beale, it may be found fully as accurate and reliable; and +perhaps the reader, being like myself a mere layman, so to speak, may be +better able to appreciate description free from scientific formula and +nine-jointed words. + +Two things I did notice on this occasion which I will briefly allude to +before closing this chapter. One was the peculiar skin of the whale. It +was a bluish-black, and as thin as gold-beater's skin. So thin, indeed, +and tender, that it was easily scraped off with the finger-nail. +Immediately beneath it, upon the surface of the blubber, was a layer or +coating of what for want of a better simile I must call fine short fur, +although unlike fur it had no roots or apparently any hold upon the +blubber. Neither was it attached to the skin which covered it; in fact, +it seemed merely a sort of packing between the skin and the surface of +the thick layer of solid fat which covered the whole area of the whale's +body. The other matter which impressed me was the peculiarity of the +teeth. For up till that time I had held, in common with most seamen, and +landsmen, too, for that matter, the prevailing idea that a "whale" lived +by "suction" (although I did not at all know what that meant), and that +it was impossible for him to swallow a herring. Yet here was a mouth +manifestly intended for greater things in the way of gastronomy than +herrings; nor did it require more than the most casual glances to +satisfy one of so obvious a fact. Then the teeth were heroic in size, +protruding some four or five inches from the gum, and solidly set more +than that into its firm and compact substance. They were certainly not +intended for mastication, being, where thickest, three inches apart, and +tapering to a short point, curving slightly backwards. In this specimen, +a female, and therefore small as I have said, there were twenty of +them on each side, the last three or four near the gullet being barely +visible above the gum. + +Another most convincing reason why no mastication could have been +possible was that there were no teeth visible in the upper jaw. Opposed +to each of the teeth was a socket where a tooth should apparently have +been, and this was conclusive evidence of the soft and yielding nature +of the great creature's food. But there were signs that at some period +of the development of the whale it had possessed a double row of teeth, +because at the bottom of these upper sockets we found in a few cases +what seemed to be an abortive tooth, not one that was growing, because +they had no roots, but a survival of teeth that had once been perfect +and useful, but from disuse, or lack of necessity for them, had +gradually ceased to come to maturity. The interior of the mouth and +throat was of a livid white, and the tongue was quite small for so large +an animal. It was almost incapable of movement, being somewhat like a +fowl's. Certainly it could not have been protruded even from the angle +of the mouth, much less have extended along the parapet of that lower +mandible, which reminded one of the beak of some mighty albatross or +stork. + + + + + +CHAPTER VII. GETTING SOUTHWARD + +Whether our recent experience had altered the captain's plans or not +I do not know, but much to the dismay of the Portuguese portion of the +crew, we did but sight, dimly and afar off, the outline of the Cape +Verde Islands before our course was altered, and we bore away for the +southward like any other outward-bounder. That is, as far as our course +went; but as to the speed, we still retained the leisurely tactics +hitherto pursued, shortening sail every night, and, if the weather was +very fine, setting it all again at daybreak. + +The morose and sullen temper of the captain had been, if anything, made +worse by recent events, and we were worked as hard as if the success of +the voyage depended upon our ceaseless toil of scrubbing, scraping, +and polishing. Discipline was indeed maintained at a high pitch of +perfection, no man daring to look awry, much less complain of any +hardship, however great. Even this humble submissiveness did not satisfy +our tyrant, and at last his cruelty took a more active shape. One of +the long Yankee farmers from Vermont, Abner Cushing by name, with the +ingenuity which seems inbred in his 'cute countrymen, must needs try +his hand at making a villainous decoction which he called "beer," the +principal ingredients in which were potatoes and molasses. Now potatoes +formed no part of our dietary, so Abner set his wits to work to steal +sufficient for his purpose, and succeeded so far that he obtained half +a dozen. I have very little doubt that one of the Portuguese in the +forecastle conveyed the information aft for some reason best known to +himself, any more than we white men all had that in a similar manner +all our sayings and doings, however trivial, became at once known to the +officers. However, the fact that the theft was discovered soon became +painfully evident, for we had a visit from the afterguard in force one +afternoon, and Abner with his brewage was haled to the quarter-deck. +There, in the presence of all hands, he was arraigned, found guilty of +stealing the ship's stores, and sentence passed upon him. By means of +two small pieces of fishing line he was suspended by his thumbs in the +weather rigging, in such a manner that when the ship was upright his +toes touched the deck, but when she rolled his whole weight hung from +his thumbs. This of itself one would have thought sufficient torture for +almost any offence, but in addition to it he received two dozen lashes +with an improvised cat-o'-nine-tails, laid on by the brawny arm of +one of the harpooners. We were all compelled to witness this, and our +feelings may be imagined. When, after what seemed a terribly long +time to me (Heaven knows what it must have been to him!), he fainted, +although no chicken I nearly fainted too, from conflicting emotions of +sympathy and impotent rage. + +He was then released in leisurely fashion, and we were permitted to take +him forward and revive him. As soon as he was able to stand on his feet, +he was called on deck again, and not allowed to go below till his watch +was over. Meanwhile Captain Slocum improved the occasion by giving us a +short harangue, the burden of which was that we had now seen a LITTLE of +what any of us might expect if we played any "dog's tricks" on him. But +you can get used to anything, I suppose: so after the first shock of the +atrocity was over, things went on again pretty much as usual. + +For the first and only time in my experience, we sighted St. Paul's +Rocks, a tiny group of jagged peaks protruding from the Atlantic nearly +on the Equator. Stupendous mountains they must be, rising almost sheer +for about four and a half miles from the ocean bed. Although they appear +quite insignificant specks upon the vast expanse of water, one could not +help thinking how sublime their appearance would be were they visible +from the plateau whence they spring. Their chief interest to us at the +time arose from the fact that, when within about three miles of them, +we were suddenly surrounded by a vast school of bonito, These fish, +so-named by the Spaniards from their handsome appearance, are a species +of mackerel, a branch of the SCOMBRIDAE family, and attain a size +of about two feet long and forty pounds weight, though their average +dimensions are somewhat less than half that. They feed entirely upon +flying-fish and the small leaping squid or cuttle-fish, but love to +follow a ship, playing around her, if her pace be not too great, for +days together. Their flesh resembles beef in appearance, and they are +warm-blooded; but, from their habitat being mid-ocean, nothing is known +with any certainty of their habits of breeding. + +The orthodox method of catching them on board ship is to cover a +suitable hook with a piece of white rag a couple of inches long, and +attach it to a stout line. The fisherman then takes his seat upon the +jibboom end, having first, if he is prudent, secured a sack to the +jibstay in such a manner that its mouth gapes wide. Then he unrolls his +line, and as the ship forges ahead the line, blowing out, describes a +curve, at the end of which the bait, dipping to--the water occasionally, +roughly represents a flying-fish. Of course, the faster the ship is +going, the better the chance of deceiving the fish, since they have less +time to study the appearance of the bait. It is really an exaggerated +and clumsy form of fly-fishing, and, as with that elegant pastime, much +is due to the skill of the fisherman. + +As the bait leaps from crest to crest of the wavelets thrust aside by +the advancing ship, a fish more adventurous or hungrier than the rest +will leap at it, and in an instant there is a dead, dangling weight of +from ten to forty pounds hanging at the end of your line thirty feet +below. You haul frantically, for he may be poorly hooked, and you cannot +play him. In a minute or two, if all goes well, he is plunged in the +sack, and safe. But woe unto you if you have allowed the jeers of your +shipmates to dissuade you from taking a sack out with you. + +The struggles of these fish are marvellous, and a man runs great risk of +being shaken off the boom, unless his legs are firmly locked in between +the guys. Such is the tremendous vibration that a twenty-pound bonito +makes in a man's grip, that it can be felt in the cabin at the other and +of the ship; and I have often come in triumphantly with one, having lost +all feeling in my arms and a goodly portion of skin off my breast and +side, where I have embraced the prize in a grim determination to hold +him at all hazards, besides being literally drenched with his blood. + +Like all our fishing operations on board the CACHALOT, this day's +fishing was conducted on scientific principles, and resulted in +twenty-five fine fish being shipped, which were a welcome addition to +our scanty allowance. Happily for us, they would not take the salt in +that sultry latitude soon enough to preserve them; for, when they can be +salted, they become like brine itself, and are quite unfit for food. +Yet we should have been compelled to eat salt bonito, or go without meat +altogether, if it had been possible to cure them. + +We were now fairly in the "horse latitudes," and, much to our relief, +the rain came down in occasional deluges, permitting us to wash well +and often. I suppose the rains of the tropics have been often enough +described to need no meagre attempts of mine to convey an idea of them; +yet I have often wished I could make home-keeping friends understand how +far short what they often speak of as a "tropical shower" falls of the +genuine article. The nearest I can get to it is the idea of an ocean +suspended overhead, out, of which the bottom occasionally falls. Nothing +is visible or audible but the glare and roar of falling water, and a +ship's deck, despite the many outlets, is full enough to swim about in +in a very few minutes. At such times the whole celestial machinery +of rain-making may be seen in full working order. Five or six mighty +waterspouts in various stages of development were often within easy +distance of us; once, indeed, we watched the birth, growth, and death +of one less than a mile away. First, a big, black cloud, even among that +great assemblage of NIMBI, began to belly downward, until the centre +of it tapered into a stem, and the whole mass looked like a vast, +irregularly-moulded funnel. Lower and lower it reached, as if feeling +for a soil in which to grow, until the sea beneath was agitated +sympathetically, rising at last in a sort of pointed mound to meet the +descending column. Our nearness enabled us to see that both descending +and rising parts were whirling violently in obedience to some invisible +force, and when they had joined each other, although the spiral motion +did not appear to continue, the upward rush of the water through what +was now a long elastic tube was very plainly to be seen. The cloud +overhead grew blacker and bigger, until its gloom was terrible. The +pipe, or stem, got thinner gradually, until it became a mere thread; +nor, although watching closely, could we determine when the connection +between sea and sky ceased--one could not call it severed. The point +rising from the sea settled almost immediately amidst a small commotion, +as of a whirlpool. The tail depending from the cloud slowly shortened, +and the mighty reservoir lost the vast bulge which had hung so +threateningly above. Just before the final disappearance of the last +portion of the tube, a fragment of cloud appeared to break off. It fell +near enough to show by its thundering roar what a body of water it must +have been, although it looked like a saturated piece of dirty rag in its +descent. + +For whole days and nights together we sometimes lay almost "as idle as +a painted ship upon a painted ocean," when the deep blue dome above +matched the deep blue plain below, and never a fleck of white appeared +in sky or sea. This perfect stop to our progress troubled none, although +it aggravates a merchant skipper terribly. As for the objects of our +search, they had apparently all migrated other-whither, for never a sign +of them did we see. Finbacks, a species of rorqual, were always pretty +numerous, and as if they knew how useless they were to us, came and +played around like exaggerated porpoises. One in particular kept us +company for several days and nights. We knew him well, from a great +triangular scar on his right side, near the dorsal fin. Sometimes he +would remain motionless by the side of the ship, a few feet below the +surface, as distinctly in our sight as a gold-fish in a parlour globe; +or he would go under the keel, and gently chafe his broad back to and +fro along it, making queer tremors run through the vessel, as if she +were scraping over a reef. Whether from superstition or not I cannot +tell, but I never saw any creature injured out of pure wantonness, +except sharks, while I was on board the CACHALOT. Of course, injuries to +men do not count. Had that finback attempted to play about a passenger +ship in such a fashion, all the loungers on board would have been +popping at him with their revolvers and rifles without ever a thought +of compunction; yet here, in a vessel whose errand was whale-fishing, +a whale enjoyed perfect immunity. It was very puzzling. At last my +curiosity became too great to hear any longer, and I sought my friend +Mistah Jones at what I considered a favourable opportunity. I found him +very gracious and communicative, and I got such a lecture on the natural +history of the cetacea as I have never forgotten--the outcome of a +quarter-century's experience of them, and afterwards proved by me to be +correct in every detail, which latter is a great deal more than can be +said of any written natural history that ever I came across. But I will +not go into that now. Leaning over the rail, with the great rorqual +laying perfectly still a few feet below, I was told to mark how slender +and elegant were his proportions. "Clipper-built," my Mentor termed him. +He was full seventy feet long, but his greatest diameter would not reach +ten feet. His snout was long and pointed, while both top and bottom of +his head were nearly flat. When he came up to breathe, which he did out +of the top of his head, he showed us that, instead of teeth, he had a +narrow fringe of baleen (whalebone) all around his upper jaws, although +"I kaint see whyfor, kase he lib on all sort er fish, s'long's dey +ain't too big. I serpose w'en he kaint get nary fish he do de same ez +de 'bowhead'--go er siftin eout dem little tings we calls whale-feed wiv +dat ar' rangement he carry in his mouf." "But why don't we harpoon him?" +I asked. Goliath turned on me a pitying look, as he replied, "Sonny, +ef yew wuz ter go on stick iron inter dat ar fish, yew'd fink de hole +bottom fell eout kerblunk. W'en I uz young 'n foolish, a finback range +'longside me one day, off de Seychelles. I just done gone miss' a spam +whale, and I was kiender mad,--muss ha' bin. Wall, I let him hab it blam +'tween de ribs. If I lib ten tousan year, ain't gwine ter fergit dat ar. +Wa'nt no time ter spit, tell ye; eberybody hang ober de side ob de boat. +Wiz--poof!--de line all gone. Clar to glory, I neber see it go. Ef it +hab ketch anywhar, nobody eber see US too. Fus, I t'ought I jump ober +de side--neber face de skipper any mo'. But he uz er good ole man, en +he only say, 'Don't be sech blame jackass any more.' En I don't." From +which lucid narration I gathered that the finback had himself to thank +for his immunity from pursuit. "'Sides," persisted Goliath, "wa' yew +gwine do wiv' him? Ain't six inch uv blubber anywhere 'bout his long +ugly carkiss; en dat, dirty lill' rag 'er whalebone he got in his mouf, +'taint worf fifty cents. En mor'n dat, we pick up, a dead one when I +uz in de ole RAINBOW--done choke hisself, I spec, en we cut him in. He +stink fit ter pison de debbil, en, after all, we get eighteen bar'l ob +dirty oil out ob him. Wa'nt worf de clean sparm scrap we use ter bile +him. G' 'way!" Which emphatic adjuration, addressed not to me, but to +the unconscious monster below, closed the lesson for the time. + +The calm still persisted, and, as usual, fish began to abound, +especially flying-fish. At times, disturbed by some hungry bonito or +dolphin, a shoal of them would rise--a great wave of silver--and skim +through the air, rising and falling for perhaps a couple of hundred +yards before they again took to the water; or a solitary one of larger +size than usual would suddenly soar into the air, a heavy splash behind +him showing by how few inches he had missed the jaws of his pursuer. +Away he would go in a long, long curve, and, meeting the ship in his +flight, would rise in the air, turn off at right angles to his former +direction, and spin away again, the whir of his wing-fins distinctly +visible as well as audible. At last he would incline to the water, but +just as he was about to enter it there would be an eddy--the enemy +was there waiting--and he would rise twenty, thirty feet, almost +perpendicularly, and dart away fully a hundred yards on a fresh course +before the drying of his wing membranes compelled him to drop. In the +face of such a sight as this, which is of everyday occurrence in these +latitudes, how trivial and misleading the statements made by the natural +history books seem. + +They tell their readers that the EXOCETUS VOLITANS "does not fly; does +not flutter its wings; can only take a prolonged leap," and so on. The +misfortune attendant upon such books seems, to an unlearned sailor like +myself, to be that, although posing as authorities, most of the authors +are content to take their facts not simply at second-hand, but even unto +twenty-second-hand. So the old fables get repeated, and brought up to +date, and it is nobody's business to take the trouble to correct them. + +The weather continued calm and clear, and as the flying-fish were about +in such immense numbers, I ventured to suggest to Goliath that we might +have a try for some of them. I verily believe he thought I was mad. He +stared at me for a minute, and then, with an indescribable intonation, +said, "How de ol' Satan yew fink yew gwain ter get'm, hey? Ef yew spects +ter fool dis chile wiv any dem lime-juice yarns, 'bout lanterns 'n boats +at night-time, yew's 'way off." I guessed he meant the fable current +among English sailors, that if you hoist a sail on a calm night in a +boat where flying-fish abound, and hang a lantern in the middle of it, +the fish will fly in shoals at the lantern, strike against the sail, and +fall in heaps in the boat. It MAY be true, but I never spoke to anybody +who has seen it done, nor is it the method practised in the only place +in the world where flying-fishing is followed for a living. So I told +Mr. Jones that if we had some circular nets of small mesh made and +stretched on wooden hoops, I was sure we should be able to catch some. +He caught at the idea, and mentioned it to the mate, who readily gave +his permission to use a boat. A couple of "Guineamen" (a very large +kind of flying-fish, having four wings) flew on board that night, as if +purposely to provide us with the necessary bait. + +Next morning, about four bells, the sea being like a mirror, unruffled +by a breath of wind, we lowered and paddled off from the ship about a +mile. When far enough away, we commenced operations by squeezing in the +water some pieces of fish that had been kept for the purpose until they +were rather high-flavoured. The exuding oil from this fish spread a +thin film for some distance around the boat, through which, as through a +sheet of glass, we could see a long way down. Minute specks of the bait +sank slowly through the limpid blue, but for at least an hour there +was no sign of life. I was beginning to fear that I should be called +to account for misleading all hands, when, to my unbounded delight, +an immense shoal of flying-fish came swimming round the boat, eagerly +picking up the savoury morsels. We grasped our nets, and, leaning over +the gunwale, placed them silently in the water, pressing them downward +and in towards the boat at the same time. Our success was great +and immediate. We lifted the wanderers by scores, while I whispered +imploringly, "Be careful not to scare them; don't make a sound." All +hands entered into the spirit of the thing with great eagerness. As for +Mistah Jones, his delight was almost more than he could bear. Suddenly +one of the men, in lifting his net, slipped on the smooth bottom of the +boat, jolting one of the oars. There was a gleam of light below as the +school turned--they had all disappeared instanter. We had been so busy +that we had not noticed the dimensions of our catch; but now, to our +great joy, we found that we had at least eight hundred fish nearly as +large as herrings. We at once returned to the ship, having been absent +only two hours, during which we had caught sufficient to provide all +hands with three good meals. Not one of the crew had ever seen or heard +of such fishing before, so my pride and pleasure may be imagined. A +little learning may be a dangerous thing at times, but it certainly +is often handy to have about you. The habit of taking notice +and remembering has often been the means of saving many lives in +suddenly-met situations of emergency, at sea perhaps more than anywhere +else, and nothing can be more useful to a sailor than the practice of +keeping his weather-eye open. + +In Barbadoes there is established the only regular flying-fishery in the +world, and in just the manner I have described, except that the boats +are considerably larger, is the whole town supplied with delicious fish +at so trifling a cost as to make it a staple food among all classes. + +But I find that I am letting this chapter run to an unconscionable +length, and it does not appear as if we were getting at the southward +very fast either. Truth to tell, our progress was mighty slow; but +we gradually crept across the belt of calms, and a week after our +never-to-be-forgotten haul of flying-fish we got the first of the +south-east trades, and went away south at a good pace--for us. We made +the Island of Trinidada with its strange conical-topped pillar, the +Ninepin Rock, but did not make a call, as the skipper was beginning to +get fidgety at not seeing any whales, and anxious to get down to where +he felt reasonably certain of falling in with them. Life had been +very monotonous of late, and much as we dreaded still the prospect of +whale-fighting (by "we," of course, I mean the chaps forward), it began +to lose much of its terror for us, so greatly did we long for a little +change. Keeping, as we did, out of the ordinary track of ships, we +hardly ever saw a sail. We had no recreations; fun was out of the +question; and had it not been for a Bible, a copy of Shakespeare, and a +couple of cheap copies of "David Copperfield" and "Bleak House," all of +which were mine, we should have had no books. + + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. ABNER'S WHALE + +In a previous chapter I have referred to the fact of a bounty being +offered to whoever should first sight a useful whale, payable only in +the event of the prize being secured by the ship. In consequence of our +ill-success, and to stimulate the watchfulness of all, that bounty was +now increased from ten pounds of tobacco to twenty, or fifteen dollars, +whichever the winner chose to have. Most of us whites regarded this +as quite out of the question for us, whose untrained vision was as the +naked eye to a telescope when pitted against the eagle-like sight of the +Portuguese. Nevertheless, we all did our little best, and I know, for +one, that when I descended from my lofty perch, after a two hours' +vigil, my eyes often ached and burned for an hour afterwards from the +intensity of my gaze across the shining waste of waters. + +Judge, then, of the surprise of everybody, when one forenoon watch, +three days after we had lost sight of Trinidada, a most extraordinary +sound was heard from the fore crow's-nest. I was, at the time, up at the +main, in company with Louis, the mate's harpooner, and we stared across +to see whatever was the matter, The watchman was unfortunate Abner +Cushing, whose trivial offence had been so severely punished a short +time before, and he was gesticulating and howling like a madman. Up from +below came the deep growl of the skipper, "Foremast head, there, what +d'ye say?" "B-b-b-blow, s-s-sir," stammered Abner; "a big whale right in +the way of the sun, sir." "See anythin', Louey?" roared the skipper to +my companion, just as we had both "raised" the spout almost in the glare +cast by the sun. "Yessir," answered Louis; "but I kaint make him eout +yet, sir." "All right; keep yer eye on him, and lemme know sharp;" and +away he went aft for his glasses. + +The course was slightly altered, so that we headed direct for the whale, +and in less than a minute afterwards we saw distinctly the great black +column of a sperm whale's head rise well above the sea, scattering a +circuit of foam before it, and emitting a bushy, tufted burst of vapour +into the clear air. "There she white-waters! Ah bl-o-o-o-o-o-w, blow, +blow!" sang Louis; and then, in another tone, "Sperm whale, sir; big, +'lone fish, headin' 'beout east-by-nothe." "All right. 'Way down +from aloft," answered the skipper, who was already half-way up the +main-rigging; and like squirrels we slipped out of our hoops and down +the backstays, passing the skipper like a flash as he toiled upwards, +bellowing orders as he went. Short as our journey down had been, when we +arrived on deck we found all ready for a start. But as the whale was +at least seven miles away, and we had a fair wind for him, there was no +hurry to lower, so we all stood at attention by our respective boats, +waiting for the signal. I found, to my surprise, that, although I was +conscious of a much more rapid heart-beat than usual, I was not half so +scared as I expected to be--that the excitement was rather pleasant +than otherwise. There were a few traces of funk about some of the others +still; but as for Abner, he was fairly transformed; I hardly knew the +man. He was one of Goliath's boat's crew, and the big darkey was quite +proud of him. His eyes sparkled, and he chuckled and smiled constantly, +as one who is conscious of having done a grand stroke of business, not +only for himself, but for all hands. "Lower away boats!" came pealing +down from the skipper's lofty perch, succeeded instantly by the rattle +of the patent blocks as the falls flew through them, while the four +beautiful craft took the water with an almost simultaneous splash. +The ship-keepers had trimmed the yards to the wind and hauled up the +courses, so that simply putting the helm down deadened our way, and +allowed the boats to run clear without danger of fouling one another. To +shove off and hoist sail was the work of a few moments, and with a fine +working breeze away we went. As before, our boat, being the chief's, +had the post of honour; but there was now only one whale, and I rather +wondered why we had all left the ship. According to expectations, down +he went when we were within a couple of miles of him, but quietly and +with great dignity, elevating his tail perpendicularly in the air, and +sinking slowly from our view. Again I found Mr. Count talkative. + +"Thet whale 'll stay down fifty minutes, I guess," said he, "fer he's +every gill ov a hundred en twenty bar'l; and don't yew fergit it." "Do +the big whales give much more trouble than the little ones?" I asked, +seeing him thus chatty. "Wall, it's jest ez it happens, boy--just ez +it happens. I've seen a fifty-bar'l bull make the purtiest fight I ever +hearn tell ov--a fight thet lasted twenty hours, stove three boats, 'n +killed two men. Then, again, I've seen a hundred 'n fifty bar'l whale +lay 'n take his grooel 'thout hardly wunkin 'n eyelid--never moved ten +fathom from fust iron till fin eout. So yew may say, boy, that they're +like peepul--got thair iudividooal pekyewlyarities, an' thars no +countin' on 'em for sartin nary time." I was in great hopes of getting +some useful information while his mood lasted; but it was over, and +silence reigned. Nor did I dare to ask any more questions; he looked so +stern and fierce. The scene was very striking. Overhead, a bright blue +sky just fringed with fleecy little clouds; beneath, a deep blue sea +with innumerable tiny wavelets dancing and glittering in the blaze of +the sun; but all swayed in one direction by a great, solemn swell that +slowly rolled from east to west, like the measured breathing of some +world-supporting monster. Four little craft in a group, with twenty-four +men in them, silently waiting for battle with one of the mightiest of +God's creatures--one that was indeed a terrible foe to encounter were he +but wise enough to make the best use of his opportunities. Against +him we came with our puny weapons, of which I could not help reminding +myself that "he laugheth at the shaking of a spear." But when the man's +brain was thrown into the scale against the instinct of the brute, the +contest looked less unequal than at first sight, for THERE is the secret +of success. My musings were very suddenly interrupted. Whether we had +overrun our distance, or the whale, who was not "making a passage," but +feeding, had changed his course, I do not know; but, anyhow, he broke +water close ahead, coming straight for our boat. His great black head, +like the broad bow of a dumb barge, driving the waves before it, loomed +high and menacing to me, for I was not forbidden to look ahead now. +But coolly, as if coming alongside the ship, the mate bent to the +big steer-oar, and swung the boat off at right angles to her course, +bringing her back again with another broad sheer as the whale passed +foaming. This manoeuvre brought us side by side with him before he +had time to realize that we were there. Up till that instant he had +evidently not seen us, and his surprise was correspondingly great. To +see Louis raise his harpoon high above his head, and with a hoarse grunt +of satisfaction plunge it into the black, shining mass beside him up to +the hitches, was indeed a sight to be remembered. Quick as thought he +snatched up a second harpoon, and as the whale rolled from us it flew +from his hands, burying itself like the former one, but lower down the +body. The great impetus we had when we reached the whale carried us a +long way past him, out of all danger from his struggles. No hindrance +was experienced from the line by which we were connected with the whale, +for it was loosely coiled in a space for the purpose in the boat's bow +to the extent of two hundred feet, and this was cast overboard by the +harpooner as soon as the fish was fast. He made a fearful to-do over it, +rolling completely over several times backward and forward, at the same +time smiting the sea with his mighty tail, making an almost deafening +noise and pother. But we were comfortable enough, while we unshipped the +mast and made ready for action, being sufficiently far away from him +to escape the full effect of his gambols. It was impossible to avoid +reflecting, however, upon what WOULD happen if, in our unprepared and +so far helpless state, he were, instead of simply tumbling about in an +aimless, blind sort of fury, to rush at the boat and try to destroy it. +Very few indeed would survive such an attack, unless the tactics were +radically altered. No doubt they would be, for practices grow up in +consequence of the circumstances with which they have to deal. + +After the usual time spent in furious attempts to free himself from our +annoyance, he betook himself below, leaving us to await his return, and +hasten it as much as possible by keeping a severe strain upon the line. +Our efforts in this direction, however, did not seem to have any effect +upon him at all. Flake after flake ran out of the tubs, until we were +compelled to hand the end of our line to the second mate to splice his +own on to. Still it slipped away, and at last it was handed to the third +mate, whose two tubs met the same fate. It was now Mistah Jones' turn to +"bend on," which he did with many chuckles as of a man who was the last +resource of the unfortunate. But his face grew longer and longer as the +never-resting line continued to disappear. Soon he signalled us that he +was nearly out of line, and two or three minutes after he bent on his +"drogue" (a square piece of plank with a rope tail spliced into its +centre, and considered to hinder a whale's progress at least as much as +four boats), and let go the end. We had each bent on our drogues in the +same way, when we passed our ends to one another. So now our friend was +getting along somewhere below with 7200 feet of 1 1/2-inch rope, and +weight additional equal to the drag of sixteen 30-feet boats. + +Of course we knew that, unless he were dead and sinking, he could not +possibly remain much longer beneath the surface. The exhibition of +endurance we had just been favoured with was a very unusual one, I was +told, it being a rare thing for a cachalot to take out two boats' lines +before returning to the surface to spout. + +Therefore, we separated as widely as was thought necessary, in order +to be near him on his arrival. It was, as might be imagined, some time +before we saw the light of his countenance; but when we did, we had no +difficulty in getting alongside of him again. My friend Goliath, much +to my delight, got there first, and succeeded in picking up the bight of +the line. But having done so, his chance of distinguishing himself was +gone. Hampered by the immense quantity of sunken line which was attached +to the whale, he could do nothing, and soon received orders to cut the +bight of the line and pass the whale's end to us. He had hardly obeyed, +with a very bad grace, when the whale started off to windward with us at +a tremendous rate. The other boats, having no line, could do nothing to +help, so away we went alone, with barely a hundred fathoms of line, in +case he should take it into his head to sound again. The speed at which +he went made it appear as if a gale of wind was blowing and we flew +along the sea surface, leaping from crest to crest of the waves with +an incessant succession of cracks like pistol-shots. The flying spray +drenched us and prevented us from seeing him, but I fully realized +that it was nothing to what we should have to put up with if the wind +freshened much. One hand was kept bailing the water out which came so +freely over the bows, but all the rest hauled with all their might upon +the line, hoping to get a little closer to the flying monster. Inch +by inch we gained on him, encouraged by the hoarse objurgations of the +mate, whose excitement was intense. After what seemed a terribly long +chase, we found his speed slackening, and we redoubled our efforts. Now +we were close upon him; now, in obedience to the steersman, the boat +sheered out a bit, and we were abreast of his labouring flukes; now the +mate hurls his quivering lance with such hearty good-will that every +inch of its slender shaft disappears within the huge body. "Layoff! Off +with her, Louey!" screamed the mate; and she gave a wide sheer away from +the whale, not a second too soon. Up flew that awful tail, descending +with a crash upon the water not two feet from us. "Out oars! Pull, two! +starn, three!" shouted the mate; and as we obeyed our foe turned to +fight. Then might one see how courage and skill were such mighty factors +in the apparently unequal contest. The whale's great length made it no +easy job for him to turn, while our boat, with two oars a-side, and +the great leverage at the stern supplied by the nineteen-foot steer-oar +circled, backed, and darted ahead like a living thing animated by the +mind of our commander. When the leviathan settled, we gave a wide berth +to his probable place of ascent; when he rushed at us, we dodged him; +when he paused, if only momentarily, in we flew, and got home a fearful +thrust of the deadly lance. + +All fear was forgotten now--I panted, thirsted for his life. Once, +indeed, in a sort of frenzy, when for an instant we lay side by side +with him, I drew my sheath-knife, and plunged it repeatedly into the +blubber, as if I were assisting is his destruction. Suddenly the mate +gave a howl: "Starn all--starn all! oh, starn!" and the oars bent like +canes as we obeyed. There was an upheaval of the sea just ahead; then +slowly, majestically, the vast body of our foe rose into the air. Up, +up it went, while my heart stood still, until the whole of that immense +creature hung on high, apparently motionless, and then fell--a +hundred tons of solid flesh--back into the sea. On either side of that +mountainous mass the waters rose in shining towers of snowy foam, which +fell in their turn, whirling and eddying around us as we tossed and fell +like a chip in a whirlpool. Blinded by the flying spray, baling for very +life to free the boat from the water with which she was nearly full, +it was some minutes before I was able to decide whether we were still +uninjured or not. Then I saw, at a little distance, the whale lying +quietly. As I looked he spouted, and the vapour was red with his blood. +"Starn all!" again cried our chief, and we retreated to a considerable +distance. The old warrior's practised eye had detected the coming climax +of our efforts, the dying agony or "furry" of the great mammal. Turning +upon his side, he began to move in a circular direction, slowly at +first, then faster and faster, until he was rushing round at tremendous +speed, his great head raised quite out of water at times, clashing his +enormous jaws. Torrents of blood poured from his spout-hole, accompanied +by hoarse bellowings, as of some gigantic bull, but really caused by the +labouring breath trying to pass through the clogged air passages. The +utmost caution and rapidity of manipulation of the boat was necessary to +avoid his maddened rush, but this gigantic energy was short-lived. In a +few minutes he subsided slowly in death, his mighty body reclined on one +side, the fin uppermost waving limply as he rolled to the swell, while +the small waves broke gently over the carcass in a low, monotonous surf, +intensifying the profound silence that had succeeded the tumult of +our conflict with the late monarch of the deep. Hardly had the flurry +ceased, when we hauled up alongside of our hard-won prize, in order to +secure a line to him in a better manner than at present for hauling +him to the ship. This was effected by cutting a hole through the tough, +gristly substance of the flukes with the short "boat-spade," carried for +the purpose. The end of the line, cut off from the faithful harpoon that +had held it so long, was then passed through this hole and made fast. +This done, it was "Smoke-oh!" The luxury of that rest and refreshment +was something to be grateful for, coming, as it did, in such complete +contrast to our recent violent exertions. + +The ship was some three or four miles off to leeward, so we reckoned she +would take at least an hour and a half to work up to us. Meanwhile, our +part of the performance being over, and well over, we thoroughly enjoyed +ourselves, lazily rocking on the gentle swell by the side of a catch +worth at least L800. During the conflict I had not noticed +what now claimed attention--several great masses of white, +semi-transparent-looking substance floating about, of huge size and +irregular shape. But one of these curious lumps came floating by as we +lay, tugged at by several fish, and I immediately asked the mate if he +could tell me what it was and where it came from. He told me that, when +dying, the cachalot always ejected the contents of his stomach, which +were invariably composed of such masses as we saw before us; that he +believed the stuff to be portions of big cuttle-fish, bitten off by the +whale for the purpose of swallowing, but he wasn't sure. Anyhow, I could +haul this piece alongside now, if I liked, and see. Secretly wondering +at the indifference shown by this officer of forty years' whaling +experience to such a wonderful fact as appeared to be here presented, +I thanked him, and, sticking the boat-hook into the lump, drew it +alongside. It was at once evident that it was a massive fragment of +cuttle-fish--tentacle or arm--as thick as a stout man's body, and with +six or seven sucking-discs or ACETABULA on it. These were about as large +as a saucer, and on their inner edge were thickly set with hooks or +claws all round the rim, sharp as needles, and almost the shape and size +of a tiger's. + +To what manner of awful monster this portion of limb belonged, I could +only faintly imagine; but of course I remembered, as any sailor would, +that from my earliest sea-going I had been told that the cuttle-fish was +the biggest in the sea, although I never even began to think it might be +true until now. I asked the mate if he had ever seen such creatures as +this piece belonged to alive and kicking. He answered, languidly, "Wall, +I guess so; but I don't take any stock in fish, 'cept for provisions +er ile--en that's a fact." It will be readily believed that I vividly +recalled this conversation when, many years after, I read an account by +the Prince of Monaco of HIS discovery of a gigantic squid, to which +his naturalist gave the name of LEPIDOTEUTHIS GRIMALDII! Truly the +indifference and apathy manifested by whalers generally to everything +except commercial matters is wonderful--hardly to be credited. However, +this was a mighty revelation to me. For the first time, it was possible +to understand that, contrary to the usual notion of a whale's being +unable to swallow a herring, here was a kind of whale that could +swallow--well, a block four or five feet square apparently; who lived +upon creatures as large as himself, if one might judge of their bulk by +the sample to hand; but being unable, from only possessing teeth in one +jaw, to masticate his food, was compelled to tear it in sizable pieces, +bolt it whole, and leave his commissariat department to do the rest. + +While thus ruminating, the mate and Louis began a desultory conversation +concerning what they termed "ambergrease." I had never even heard +the word before, although I had a notion that Milton, in "Paradise +Regained," describing the Satanic banquet, had spoken of something +being "grisamber steamed." They could by no means agree as to what this +mysterious substance was, how it was produced, or under what conditions. +They knew that it was sometimes found floating near the dead body of a +sperm whale--the mate, in fact, stated that he had taken it once from +the rectum of a cachalot--and they were certain that it was of great +value--from one to three guineas per ounce. When I got to know more of +the natural history of the sperm whale, and had studied the literature +of the subject, I was so longer surprised at their want of agreement, +since the learned doctors who have written upon the subject do not seem +to have come to definite conclusions either. + +By some it is supposed to be the product of a diseased condition of the +creature; others consider that it is merely the excreta, which, normally +fluid, has by some means become concreted. It is nearly always found +with cuttle-fish beaks imbedded in its substance, showing that these +indigestible portions of the sperm whale's food have in some manner +become mixed with it during its formation in the bowel. Chemists have +analyzed it with scanty results. Its great value is due to its property +of intensifying the power of perfumes, although, strange to say, it +has little or no odour of its own, a faint trace of musk being perhaps +detectable in some cases. The Turks are said to use it for a truly +Turkish purpose, which need not be explained here, while the Moors are +credited with a taste for it in their cookery. About both these latter +statements there is considerable doubt; I only give them for what they +are worth, without, committing myself to any definite belief in them. + +The ship now neared us fast, and as soon as she rounded-to, we left +the whale and pulled towards her, paying out line as we went. Arriving +alongside, the line was handed on board, and in a short time the prize +was hauled to the gangway. We met with a very different reception this +time. The skipper's grim face actually looked almost pleasant as he +contemplated the colossal proportions of the latest addition to our +stock. He was indeed a fine catch, being at least seventy feet long, +and in splendid condition. As soon as he was secured alongside in the +orthodox fashion, all hands were sent to dinner, with an intimation to +look sharp over it. Judging from our slight previous experience, there +was some heavy labour before us, for this whale was nearly four times as +large as the one caught off the Cape Verds. And it was so. Verily those +officers toiled like Titans to get that tremendous head off even the +skipper taking a hand. In spite of their efforts, it was dark before the +heavy job was done. As we were in no danger of bad weather, the head +was dropped astern by a hawser until morning, when it would be safer +to dissect it. All that night we worked incessantly, ready to drop with +fatigue, but not daring to suggest, the possibility of such a thing. +Several of the officers and harpooners were allowed a few hours off, +as their special duty of dealing with the head at daylight would be so +arduous as to need all their energies. When day dawned we were allowed a +short rest, while the work of cutting up the head was undertaken by the +rested men. At seven bells (7.30) it was "turn to" all hands again. The +"junk" was hooked on to both cutting tackles, and the windlass manned by +everybody who could get hold. Slowly the enormous mass rose, canting the +ship heavily as it came, while every stick and rope aloft complained of +the great strain upon them. When at last it was safely shipped, and +the tackles cast off, the size of this small portion of a full-grown +cachalot's body could be realized, not before. + +It was hauled from the gangway by tackles, and securely lashed to the +rail running round beneath the top of the bulwarks for that purpose--the +"lash-rail"--where the top of it towered up as high as the third ratline +of the main-rigging. Then there was another spell, while the "case" was +separated from the skull. This was too large to get on board, so it was +lifted half-way out of water by the tackles, one hooked on each side; +then they were made fast, and a spar rigged across them at a good +height above the top of the case. A small block was lashed to this spar, +through which a line was rove. A long, narrow bucket was attached to +one end of this rope; the other end on deck was attended by two men. One +unfortunate beggar was perched aloft on the above-mentioned spar, where +his position, like the main-yard of Marryatt's verbose carpenter was +"precarious and not at all permanent." He was provided with a pole, with +which he pushed the bucket down through a hole cut in the upper end +of the "case," whence it was drawn out by the chaps on deck full of +spermaceti. It was a weary, unsatisfactory process, wasting a great +deal of the substance being baled out; but no other way was apparently +possible. The grease blew about, drenching most of us engaged in an +altogether unpleasant fashion, while, to mend matters, the old barky +began to roll and tumble about in an aimless, drunken sort of way, the +result of a new cross swell rolling up from the south-westward. As the +stuff was gained, it was poured into large tanks in the blubber-room, +the quantity being too great to be held by the try-pots at once. +Twenty-five barrels of this clear, wax-like substance were baled from +that case; and when at last it was lowered a little, and cut away from +its supports, it was impossible to help thinking that much was still +remaining within which we, with such rude means, were unable to save. +Then came the task of cutting up the junk. Layer after layer, eight to +ten inches thick, was sliced off, cut into suitable pieces, and passed +into the tanks. So full was the matter of spermaceti that one could +take a piece as large as one's head in the hands, and squeeze it like a +sponge, expressing the spermaceti in showers, until nothing remained +but a tiny ball of fibre. All this soft, pulpy mass was held together by +walls of exceedingly tough, gristly integrument ("white horse"), which +was as difficult to cut as gutta-percha, and, but for the peculiar +texture, not at all unlike it. + +When we had finished separating the junk, there was nearly a foot of oil +on deck in the waist, and uproarious was the laughter when some hapless +individual, losing his balance, slid across the deck and sat down with a +loud splash in the deepest part of the accumulation. + +The lower jaw of this whale measured exactly nineteen feet in length +from the opening of the mouth, or, say the last of the teeth, to the +point, and carried twenty-eight teeth on each side. For the time, it was +hauled aft out of the way, and secured to the lash-rail. The subsequent +proceedings were just the same as before described, only more so. For a +whole week our labours continued, and when they were over we had stowed +below a hundred and forty-six barrels of mingled oil and spermaceti, or +fourteen and a half tuns. + +It was really a pleasant sight to see Abner receiving as if being +invested with an order of merit, the twenty pounds of tobacco to which +he was entitled. Poor fellow! he felt as if at last he were going to be +thought a little of, and treated a little better. He brought his bounty +forrard, and shared it out as far as it would go with the greatest +delight and good nature possible. Whatever he might have been thought of +aft, certainly, for the time, he was a very important personage forrard; +even the Portuguese, who were inclined to be jealous of what they +considered an infringement of their rights, were mollified by the +generosity shown. + +After every sign of the operations had been cleared away, the jaw was +brought out, and the teeth extracted with a small tackle. They were set +solidly into a hard white gum, which had to be cut away all around them +before they would come out. When cleaned of the gum, they were headed up +in a small barrel of brine. The great jaw-pans were sawn off, and placed +at the disposal of anybody who wanted pieces of bone for "scrimshaw," or +carved work. This is a very favourite pastime on board whalers, though, +in ships such as ours, the crew have little opportunity for doing +anything, hardly any leisure during daylight being allowed. But our +carpenter was a famous workman at "scrimshaw," and he started half a +dozen walking-sticks forthwith. A favourite design is to carve the bone +into the similitude of a rope, with "worming" of smaller line along its +lays. A handle is carved out of a whale's tooth, and insets of baleen, +silver, cocoa-tree, or ebony, give variety and finish. The tools used +are of the roughest. Some old files, softened in the fire, and filed +into grooves something like saw-teeth, are most used; but old knives, +sail-needles, and chisels are pressed into service. The work turned +out would, in many cases, take a very high place in an exhibition of +turnery, though never a lathe was near it. Of course, a long time is +taken over it, especially the polishing, which is done with oil and +whiting, if it can be got--powdered pumice if it cannot. I once had +an elaborate pastry-cutter carved out of six whale's teeth, which I +purchased for a pound of tobacco from a seaman of the CORAL whaler, +and afterwards sold in Dunedin, New Zealand, for L2 10s., the purchaser +being decidedly of opinion that he had a bargain. + + + + + +CHAPTER IX. OUR FIRST CALLING-PLACE + +Perhaps it may hastily be assumed, from the large space already devoted +to fishing operations of various kinds, that the subject will not bear +much more dealing with, if my story is to avoid being monotonous. But I +beg to assure you, dear reader, that while of course I have most to say +in connection with the business of the voyage, nothing is farther from +my plan than to neglect the very interesting portion of our cruise +which relates to visiting strange, out-of-the-way corners of the world. +If--which I earnestly deprecate--the description hitherto given of sperm +whale-fishing and its adjuncts be found not so interesting as could be +wished, I cry you mercy. I have been induced to give more space to +it because it has been systematically avoided in the works upon +whale-fishing before mentioned, which, as I have said, were not intended +for popular reading. True, neither may my humble tome become popular +either; but, if it does not, no one will be so disappointed as the +author. + +We had made but little progress during the week of oil manufacture, very +little attention being paid to the sails while that work was about; but, +as the south-east trades blew steadily, we did not remain stationary +altogether. So that the following week saw us on the south side of the +tropic of Capricorn, the south-east trade done, and the dirty weather +and variable squalls, which nearly always precede the "westerlies," +making our lives a burden to us. Here, however, we were better off than +in an ordinary merchantman, where doldrums are enough to drive you +mad. The one object being to get along, it is incessant "pully-hauly," +setting and taking in sail, in order, on the one hand, to lose no time, +and, on the other, to lose no sails. Now, with us, whenever the weather +was doubtful or squally-looking, we shortened sail, and kept it fast +till better weather came along, being quite careless whether we made one +mile a day or one hundred. But just because nobody took any notice of +our progress as the days passed, we were occasionally startled to find +how far we had really got. This was certainly the case with all of us +forward, even to me who had some experience, so well used had I now +become to the leisurely way of getting along. To the laziest of ships, +however, there comes occasionally a time when the bustling, hurrying +wind will take no denial, and you've got to "git up an' git," as the +Yanks put it. Such a time succeeded our "batterfanging" about, after +losing the trades. We got hold of a westerly wind that, commencing +quietly, gently, steadily, taking two or three days before it gathered +force and volume, strengthened at last into a stern, settled gale that +would brook no denial, to face which would have been misery indeed. To +vessels bound east it came as a boon and blessing, for it would be a +crawler that could not reel off her two hundred and fifty miles a day +before the push of such a breeze. Even the CACHALOT did her one hundred +and fifty, pounding and bruising the ill-used sea in her path, and +spreading before her broad bows a far-reaching area of snowy foam, while +her wake was as wide as any two ordinary ships ought to make. Five or +six times a day the flying East India or colonial-bound English ships, +under every stitch of square sail, would appear as tiny specks on the +horizon astern, come up with us, pass like a flash, and fade away ahead, +going at least two knots to our one. I could not help feeling a bit +home-sick and tired of my present surroundings, in spite of their +interest, when I saw those beautiful ocean-flyers devouring the distance +which lay before them, and reflected that in little more than one month +most of them would be discharging in Melbourne, Sydney, Calcutta, or +some other equally distant port, while we should probably be dodging +about in our present latitude a little farther east. + +After a few days of our present furious rate of speed, I came on deck +one morning, and instantly recognized an old acquaintance. Right ahead, +looking nearer than I had ever seen it before, rose the towering mass of +Tristan d'Acunha, while farther away, but still visible, lay Nightingale +and Inaccessible Islands. Their aspect was familiar, for I had sighted +them on nearly every voyage I had made round the Cape, but I had never +seen them so near as this. There was a good deal of excitement among +us, and no wonder. Such a break in the monotony of our lives as we were +about to have was enough to turn our heads. Afterwards, we learned to +view these matters in a more philosophic light; but now, being new and +galled by the yoke, it was a different thing. Near as the island seemed, +it was six hours before we got near enough to distinguish objects on +shore. I have seen the top of Tristan peeping through a cloud nearly +a hundred miles away, for its height is tremendous. St. Helena looks +a towering, scowling mass when you approach it closely but Tristan +d'Acunha is far more imposing, its savage-looking cliffs seeming to +sternly forbid the venturesome voyager any nearer familiarity with their +frowning fastnesses. Long before we came within working distance of the +settlement, we were continually passing broad patches of kelp (FUCUS +GIGANTEA), whose great leaves and cable-laid stems made quite reef-like +breaks in the heaving waste of restless sea. Very different indeed were +these patches of marine growth from the elegant wreaths of the Gulf-weed +with which parts of the North Atlantic are so thickly covered. Their +colour was deep brown, almost black is some cases, and the size of many +of the leaves amazing, being four to five feet long, by a foot wide, +with stalks as thick as one's arm. They have their origin around these +storm-beaten rocks, which lie scattered thinly over the immense area of +the Southern Ocean, whence they are torn, in masses like those we saw, +by every gale, and sent wandering round the world. + +When we arrived within about three miles of the landing-place, we saw +a boat coming off, so we immediately hove-to and awaited her arrival. +There was no question of anchoring; indeed, there seldom is in these +vessels, unless they are going to make a long stay, for they are past +masters in the art of "standing off and on." The boat came alongside--a +big, substantially-built craft of the whale-boat type, but twice the +size--manned by ten sturdy-looking fellows, as unkempt and wild-looking +as any pirates. They were evidently put to great straits for clothes, +many curious makeshifts being noticeable in their rig, while it was so +patched with every conceivable kind of material that it was impossible +to say which was the original or "standing part." They brought with them +potatoes, onions, a few stunted cabbages, some fowls, and a couple of +good-sized pigs, at the sight of which good things our eyes glistened +and our mouths watered. Alas! none of the cargo of that boat ever +reached OUR hungry stomachs. We were not surprised, having anticipated +that every bit of provision would be monopolized by our masters; but of +course we had no means of altering such a state of things. + +The visitors had the same tale to tell that seems universal--bad trade, +hard times, nothing doing. How very familiar it seemed, to be +sure. Nevertheless, it could not be denied that their sole means of +communication with the outer world, as well as market for their goods, +the calling whale-ships, were getting fewer and fewer every year; so +that their outlook was not, it must be confessed, particularly bright. +But their wants are few, beyond such as they can themselves supply. +Groceries and clothes, the latter especially, as the winters are very +severe, are almost the only needs they require to be supplied with from +without. They spoke of the "Cape" as if it were only across the way, the +distance separating them from that wonderful place being over thirteen +hundred miles in reality. Very occasionally a schooner from Capetown +does visit them; but, as the seals are almost exterminated, there is +less and less inducement to make the voyage. + +Like almost all the southern islets, this group has been in its time the +scene of a wonderfully productive seal-fishery. It used to be customary +for whaling and sealing vessels to land a portion of their crews, and +leave them to accumulate a store of seal-skins and oil, while the +ships cruised the surrounding seas for whales, which were exceedingly +numerous, both "right" and sperm varieties. In those days there was no +monotony of existence in these islands, ships were continually coming +and going, and the islanders prospered exceedingly. When they increased +beyond the capacity of the islands to entertain them, a portion migrated +to the Cape, while many of the men took service in the whale-ships, for +which they were eminently suited. + +They are, as might be expected, a hybrid lot, the women all mulattoes, +but intensely English in their views and loyalty. Since the visit of +H.M.S. GALATEA, in August, 1867, with the Duke of Edinburgh on board, +this sentiment had been intensified, and the little collection of +thatched cottages, nameless till then, was called Edinburgh, in honour +of the illustrious voyager. They breed cattle, a few sheep, and pigs, +although the sheep thrive but indifferently for some reason or another. +Poultry they have in large numbers, so that, could they commend a +market, they would do very well. + +The steep cliffs, rising from the sea for nearly a thousand feet, often +keep their vicinity in absolute calm, although a heavy gale may be +raging on the other side of the island, and it would be highly dangerous +for any navigator not accustomed to such a neighbourhood to get too +near them. The immense rollers setting inshore, and the absence of wind +combined, would soon carry a vessel up against the beetling crags, +and letting go an anchor would not be of the slightest use, since the +bottom, being of massive boulders, affords no holding ground at all. All +round the island the kelp grows thickly, so thickly indeed as to make a +boat's progress through it difficult. This, however, is very useful in +one way here, as we found. Wanting more supplies, which were to be had +cheap, we lowered a couple of boats, and went ashore after them. On +approaching the black, pebbly beach which formed the only landing-place, +it appeared as if getting ashore would be a task of no ordinary danger +and difficulty. The swell seemed to culminate as we neared the beach, +lifting the boats at one moment high in air, and at the next lowering +them into a green valley, from whence nothing could be seen but the +surrounding watery summits. Suddenly we entered the belt of kelp, +which extended for perhaps a quarter of a mile seaward, and, lo! a +transformation indeed. Those loose, waving fronds of flexible weed, +though swayed hither and thither by every ripple, were able to arrest +the devastating rush of the gigantic swell, so that the task of landing, +which had looked so terrible, was one of the easiest. Once in among the +kelp, although we could hardly use the oars, the water was quite smooth +and tranquil. The islanders collected on the beach, and guided us to the +best spot for landing, the huge boulders, heaped in many places, being +ugly impediments to a boat. + +We were as warmly welcomed as if we had been old friends, and hospitable +attentions were showered upon us from every side. The people were +noticeably well-behaved, and, although there was something Crusoe-like +in their way of living, their manners and conversation were distinctly +good. A rude plenty was evident, there being no lack of good food--fish, +fowl, and vegetables. The grassy plateau on which the village stands is +a sort of shelf jutting out from the mountain-side, the mountain being +really the whole island. Steep roads were hewn out of the solid rock, +leading, as we were told, to the cultivated terraces above. These +reached an elevation of about a thousand feet. Above all towered the +great, dominating peak, the summit lost in the clouds eight or nine +thousand feet above. The rock-hewn roads and cultivated land certainly +gave the settlement an old-established appearance, which was not +surprising seeing that it has been inhabited for more than a hundred +years. I shall always bear a grateful recollection of the place, +because my host gave me what I had long been a stranger to--a good, +old-fashioned English dinner of roast beef and baked potatoes. He +apologized for having no plum-pudding to crown the feast. "But, you +see," he said, "we kaint grow no corn hyar, and we'm clean run out +ov flour; hev ter make out on taters 's best we kin." I sincerely +sympathized with him on the lack of bread-stuff among them, and wondered +no longer at the avidity with which they had munched our flinty biscuits +on first coming aboard. His wife, a buxom, motherly woman of about +fifty, of dark, olive complexion, but good features, was kindness +itself; and their three youngest children, who were at home, could not, +in spite of repeated warnings and threats, keep their eyes off me, as +if I had been some strange animal dropped from the moon. I felt very +unwilling to leave them so soon, but time was pressing, the stores we +had come for were all ready to ship, and I had to tear myself away from +these kindly entertainers. I declare, it seemed like parting with old +friends; yet our acquaintance might have been measured by minutes, so +brief it had been. The mate had purchased a fine bullock, which had been +slaughtered and cut up for us with great celerity, four or five dozen +fowls (alive), four or five sacks of potatoes, eggs, etc., so that we +were heavily laden for the return journey to the ship. My friend had +kindly given me a large piece of splendid cheese, for which I was +unable to make him any return, being simply clad in a shirt and pair of +trousers, neither of which necessary garments could be spared. + +With hearty cheers from the whole population, we shoved off and ploughed +through the kelp seaweed again. When we got clear of it, we found the +swell heavier than when we had come, and a rough journey back to the +ship was the result. But, to such boatmen as we were, that was a trifle +hardly worth mentioning, and after an hour's hard pull we got +alongside again, and transhipped our precious cargo. The weather being +threatening, we at once hauled off the land and out to sea, as night was +falling and we did not wish to be in so dangerous a vicinity any longer +than could be helped in stormy weather. Altogether, a most enjoyable +day, and one that I have ever since had a pleasant recollection of. + +By daybreak next morning the islands were out of sight, for the wind had +risen to a gale, which, although we carried little sail, drove us along +before it some seven or eight knots an hour. + +Two days afterwards we caught another whale of medium size, making us +fifty-four barrels of oil. As nothing out of the ordinary course marked +the capture, it is unnecessary to do more than allude to it in passing, +except to note that the honours were all with Goliath. He happened to be +close to the whale when it rose, and immediately got fast. So dexterous +and swift were his actions that before any of the other boats could +"chip in" he had his fish "fin out," the whole affair from start to +finish only occupying a couple of hours. We were now in the chosen +haunts of the great albatross, Cape pigeons, and Cape hens, but never in +my life had I imagined such a concourse of them as now gathered around +us. When we lowered there might have been perhaps a couple of dozen +birds in sight, but no sooner was the whale dead than from out of the +great void around they began to drift towards us. Before we had got him +fast alongside, the numbers of that feathered host were incalculable. +They surrounded us until the sea surface was like a plain of snow, +and their discordant cries were deafening. With the exception of one +peculiar-looking bird, which has received from whalemen the inelegant +name of "stinker," none of them attempted to alight upon the body of the +dead monster. This bird, however, somewhat like a small albatross, +but of dirty-grey colour, and with a peculiar excrescence on his beak, +boldly took his precarious place upon the carcase, and at once began to +dig into the blubber. He did not seem to make much impression, but he +certainly tried hard. + +It was dark before we got our prize secured by the fluke-chain, so that +we could not commence operations before morning. That night it blew +hard, and we got an idea of the strain these vessels are sometimes +subjected to. Sometimes the ship rolled one way and the whale another, +being divided by a big sea, the wrench at the fluke-chain, as the two +masses fell apart down different hollows, making the vessel quiver from +truck to keelson as if she was being torn asunder. Then we would come +together again with a crash and a shock that almost threw everybody +out of their bunks. Many an earnest prayer did I breathe that the chain +would prove staunch, for what sort of a job it would be to go after +that whale during the night, should he break loose, I could only +faintly imagine. But all our gear was of the very best; no thieving +ship-chandler had any hand in supplying our outfit with shoddy rope and +faulty chain, only made to sell, and ready at the first call made upon +it to carry away and destroy half a dozen valuable lives. There was one +coil of rope on board which the skipper had bought for cordage on the +previous voyage from a homeward-bound English ship, and it was the butt +of all the officers' scurrilous remarks about Britishers and their +gear. It was never used but for rope-yarns, being cut up in lengths, and +untwisted for the ignominious purpose of tying things up--"hardly good +enough for that," was the verdict upon it. + +Tired as we all were, very little sleep came to us that night--we were +barely seasoned yet to the exigencies of a whaler's life--but afterwards +I believe nothing short of dismasting or running the ship ashore would +wake us, once we got to sleep. In the morning we commenced operations +in a howling gale of wind, which placed the lives of the officers on the +"cutting in" stage in great danger. The wonderful seaworthy qualities +of our old ship shone brilliantly now. When an ordinary modern-built +sailing-ship would have been making such weather of it as not only to +drown anybody about the deck, but making it impossible to keep your +footing anywhere without holding on, we were enabled to cut in this +whale. True, the work was terribly exhausting and decidedly dangerous, +but it was not impossible, for it was done. By great care and constant +attention, the whole work of cutting in and trying out was got through +without a single accident; but had another whale turned up to continue +the trying time, I am fully persuaded that some of us would have gone +under from sheer fatigue. For there was no mercy shown. All that I have +ever read of "putting the slaves through for all they were worth" on the +plantations was fully realized here, and our worthy skipper must have +been a lineal descendent of the doughty Simon Legree. + +The men were afraid to go on to the sick-list. Nothing short of total +inability to continue would have prevented them from working, such was +the terror with which that man had inspired us all. It may be said that +we were a pack of cowards, who, without the courage to demand better +treatment, deserved all we got. While admitting that such a conclusion +is quite a natural one at which to arrive, I must deny its truth. There +were men in that forecastle as good citizens and as brave fellows as you +would wish to meet--men who in their own sphere would have commanded and +obtained respect. But under the painful and abnormal circumstances in +which they found themselves--beaten and driven like dogs while in the +throes of sea-sickness, half starved and hopeless, their spirit had been +so broken, and they were so kept down to that sad level by the display +of force, aided by deadly weapons aft, that no other condition could +be expected for them but that of broken-hearted slaves. My own case +was many degrees better than that of the other whites, as I have before +noted; but I was perfectly well aware that the slightest attempt on my +part to show that I resented our common treatment would meet with the +most brutal repression, and, in addition, I might look for a dreadful +time of it for the rest of the voyage. + +The memory of that week of misery is so strong upon me even now that my +hand trembles almost to preventing me from writing about it. Weak and +feeble do the words seem as I look at them, making me wish for the fire +and force of Carlyle or Macaulay to portray our unnecessary sufferings. + +Like all other earthly ills, however, they came to an end, at least +for a time, and I was delighted to note that we were getting to the +northward again. In making the outward passage round the Cape, it is +necessary to go well south, in order to avoid the great westerly set of +the Agulhas current, which for ever sweeps steadily round the southern +extremity of the African continent at an average rate of three or four +miles an hour. To homeward-bound ships this is a great boon. No matter +what the weather may be--a stark calm or a gale of wind right on end in +your teeth--that vast, silent river in the sea steadily bears you on at +the same rate in the direction of home. It is perfectly true that with +a gale blowing across the set of this great current, one of the very +ugliest combinations of broken waves is raised; but who cares for that, +when he knows that, as long as the ship holds together, some seventy or +eighty miles per day nearer home must be placed to her credit? In like +manner, it is of the deepest comfort to know that, storm or calm, fair +or foul, the current of time, unhasting, unresting, bears us on to the +goal that we shall surely reach--the haven of unbroken rest. + +Not the least of the minor troubles on board the CACHALOT was the +uncertainty of our destination; we never knew where we were going. +It may seem a small point, but it is really not so unimportant as a +landsman might imagine. On an ordinary passage, certain well-known signs +are as easily read by the seaman as if the ship's position were given +out to him every day. Every alteration of the course signifies some +point of the journey reached, some well-known track entered upon, and +every landfall made becomes a new departure from whence to base one's +calculations, which, rough as they are, rarely err more than a few days. + +Say, for instance, you are bound for Calcutta. The first of the +north-east trades will give a fair idea of your latitude being about the +edge of the tropics somewhere, or say from 20deg. to 25deg. N., whether +you have sighted any of the islands or not. Then away you go before the +wind down towards the Equator, the approach to which is notified by the +loss of the trade and the dirty, changeable weather of the "doldrums." +That weary bit of work over, along come the south-east trades, making +you brace "sharp up," and sometimes driving you uncomfortably near the +Brazilian coast. Presently more "doldrums," with a good deal more +wind in them than in the "wariables" of the line latitude. The brave +"westerly" will come along by-and-by and release you, and, with a +staggering press of sail carried to the reliable gale, away you go for +the long stretch of a hundred degrees or so eastward. You will very +likely sight Tristan d'Acunha or Gough Island; but, if not, the course +will keep you fairly well informed of your longitude, since most ships +make more or less of a great circle track. Instead of steering due East +for the whole distance, they make for some southerly latitude by running +along the arc of a great circle, THEN run due east for a thousand miles +or so before gradually working north again. These alterations in the +courses tell the foremast hand nearly all he wants to know, slight as +they are. You will most probably sight Amsterdam Island or St. Paul's in +about 77deg. E.; but whether you do or not, the big change made in the +course, to say nothing of the difference in the weather and temperature, +say loudly that your long easterly run is over, and you are bound to +the northward again. Soon the south-east trades will take you gently +in hand, and waft you pleasurably upward to the line again, unless you +should be so unfortunate as to meet one of the devastating meteors known +as "cyclones" in its gyration across the Indian Ocean. After losing the +trade, which signals your approach to the line once more, your guides +fluctuate muchly with the time of year. But it may be broadly put +that the change of the monsoon in the Bay of Bengal is beastliness +unadulterated, and the south-west monsoon itself, though a fair wind for +getting to your destination, is worse, if possible. Still, having got +that far, you are able to judge pretty nearly when, in the ordinary +course of events, you will arrive at Saugor, and get a tug for the rest +of the journey. + +But on this strange voyage I was quite as much in the dark concerning +our approximate position as any of the chaps who had never seen salt +water before they viewed it from the bad eminence of the CACHALOT's +deck. Of course, it was evident that we were bound eastward, but whether +to the Indian seas or to the South Pacific, none knew but the skipper, +and perhaps the mate. I say "perhaps" advisedly. In any well-regulated +merchant ship there is an invariable routine of observations performed +by both captain and chief officer, except in very big vessels, where the +second mate is appointed navigating officer. The two men work out their +reckoning independently of each other, and compare the result, so that +an excellent check upon the accuracy of the positions found is +thereby afforded. Here, however, there might not have been, as far as +appearances went, a navigator in the ship except the captain, if it be +not a misuse of terms to call him a navigator. If the test be ability +to take a ship round the world, poking into every undescribed, +out-of-the-way corner you can think of, and return home again without +damage to the ship of any kind except by the unavoidable perils of +the sea, then doubtless he WAS a navigator, and a ripe, good one. But +anything cruder than the "rule-of-thumb" way in which he found his +positions, or more out of date than his "hog-yoke," or quadrant, I have +never seen. I suppose we carried a chronometer, though I never saw it or +heard the cry of "stop," which usually accompanies a.m. or p.m. "sights" +taken for longitude. He used sometimes to make a deliberate sort of +haste below after taking a sight, when he may have been looking at a +chronometer perhaps. What I do know about his procedure is, that he +always used a very rough method of equal altitudes, which would make a +mathematician stare and gasp; that his nautical almanac was a ten-cent +one published by some speculative optician is New York; that he never +worked up a "dead reckoning;" and that the extreme limit of time that +he took to work out his observations was ten minutes. In fact, all +our operations in seamanship or navigation were run on the same +happy-go-lucky principle. If it was required to "tack" ship, there was +no formal parade and preparation for the manoeuvre, not even as much as +would be made in a Goole billy-boy. Without any previous intimation, +the helm would be put down, and round she would come, the yards being +trimmed by whoever happened to be nearest to the braces. The old tub +seemed to like it that way, for she never missed stays or exhibited +any of that unwillingness to do what she was required that is such a +frequent characteristic of merchantmen. Even getting under way or coming +to an anchor was unattended by any of the fuss and bother from which +those important evolutions ordinarily appear inseparable. + +To my great relief we saw no more whales of the kind we were after +during our passage round the Cape. The weather we were having was +splendid for making a passage, but to be dodging about among those +immense rollers, or towed athwart them by a wounded whale in so small +a craft as one of our whale-boats, did not have any attractions for me. +There was little doubt in any of our minds that, if whales were seen, +off we must go while daylight lasted, let the weather be what it might. +So when one morning I went to the wheel, to find the course N.N.E. +instead of E. by N., it may be taken for granted that the change was +a considerable relief to me. It was now manifest that we were bound up +into the Indian Ocean, although of course I knew nothing of the position +of the districts where whales were to be looked for. Gradually we crept +northward, the weather improving every day as we left the "roaring +forties" astern. While thus making northing we had several fine catches +of porpoises, and saw many rorquals, but sperm whales appeared to have +left the locality. However, the "old man" evidently knew what he was +about, as we were not now cruising, but making a direct passage for some +definite place. + +At last we sighted land, which, from the course which we had been +steering, might have been somewhere on the east coast of Africa, but +for the fact that it was right ahead, while we were pointing at the +time about N.N.W. By-and-by I came to the conclusion that it must be +the southern extremity of Madagascar, Cape St. Mary, and, by dint of the +closest, attention to every word I heard uttered while at the wheel by +the officers, found that my surmise was correct. We skirted this point +pretty closely, heading to the westward, and, when well clear of it, +bore up to the northward, again for the Mozambique Channel. Another +surprise. The very idea of WHALING in the Mozambique Channel seemed +too ridiculous to mention; yet here we were, guided by a commander +who, whatever his faults, was certainly most keen in his attention to +business, and the unlikeliest man imaginable to take the ship anywhere +unless he anticipated a profitable return for his visit. + + + + + +CHAPTER X. A VISIT TO SOME STRANGE PLACES + +We had now entered upon what promised to be the most interesting part of +our voyage. As a commercial speculation, I have to admit that the voyage +was to me a matter of absolute indifference. Never, from the first week +of my being on board, had I cherished any illusions upon that score, for +it was most forcibly impressed on my mind that, whatever might be the +measure of success attending our operations, no one of the crew forward +could hope to benefit by it. The share of profits was so small, and the +time taken to earn it so long, such a number of clothes were worn out +and destroyed by us, only to be replaced from the ship's slop-chest at +high prices, that I had quite resigned myself to the prospect of leaving +the vessel in debt, whenever that desirable event might happen. Since, +therefore, I had never made it a practice to repine at the inevitable, +and make myself unhappy by the contemplation of misfortunes I was +powerless to prevent, I tried to interest myself as far as was possible +in gathering information, although at that time I had no idea, beyond a +general thirst for knowledge, that what I was now learning would ever +be of any service to me. Yet I had been dull indeed not to have seen how +unique were the opportunities I was now enjoying for observation of some +of the least known and understood aspects of the ocean world and its +wonderful inhabitants, to say nothing of visits to places unvisited, +except by such free lances as we were, and about which so little is +really known. + +The weather of the Mozambique Channel was fairly good, although subject +to electric storms of the most terrible aspect, but perfectly harmless. +On the second evening after rounding Cape St. Mary, we were proceeding, +as usual, under very scanty sail, rather enjoying the mild, balmy +air, scent-laden, from Madagascar. The moon was shining in tropical +splendour, paling the lustre of the attendant stars, and making the +glorious Milky Way but a faint shadow of its usual resplendent road. +Gradually from the westward there arose a murky mass of cloud, fringed +at its upper edges with curious tinted tufts of violet, orange, and +crimson. These colours were not brilliant, but plainly visible against +the deep blue sky. Slowly and solemnly the intruding gloom overspread +the sweet splendour of the shining sky, creeping like a death-shadow +over a dear face, and making the most talkative feel strangely quiet and +ill at ease. As the pall of thick darkness blotted out the cool light, +it seemed to descend until at last we were completely over-canopied by +a dome of velvety black, seemingly low enough to touch the mast-heads. +A belated sea-bird's shrill scream but emphasized the deep silence +which lent itself befittingly to the solemnity of nature. Presently thin +suggestions of light, variously tinted, began to thread the inky +mass. These grew brighter and more vivid, until at last, in fantastic +contortions, they appeared to rend the swart concave asunder, revealing +through the jagged clefts a lurid waste of the most intensely glowing +fire. The coming and going of these amazing brightnesses, combined with +the Egyptian dark between, was completely blinding. So loaded was the +still air with electricity that from every point aloft pale flames +streamed upward, giving the ship the appearance of a huge candelabrum +with innumerable branches. One of the hands, who had been ordered aloft +on some errand of securing a loose end, presented a curious sight. +He was bareheaded, and from his hair the all pervading fluid arose, +lighting up his features, which were ghastly beyond description. When he +lifted his hand, each separate finger became at once an additional point +from which light streamed. There was no thunder, but a low hissing and a +crackling which did not amount to noise, although distinctly audible to +all. Sensations most unpleasant of pricking and general irritation were +felt by every one, according to their degree of susceptibility. + +After about an hour of this state of things, a low moaning of thunder +was heard, immediately followed by a few drops of rain large as dollars. +The mutterings and grumblings increased until, with one peal that made +the ship tremble as though she had just struck a rock at full speed, +down came the rain. The windows of heaven were opened, and no man might +stand against the steaming flood that descended by thousands of tons +per minute. How long it continued, I cannot say; probably, in its utmost +fierceness, not more than half an hour. Then it slowly abated, clearing +away as it did so the accumulation of gloom overhead, until, before +midnight had struck, all the heavenly host were shedding their beautiful +brilliancy upon us again with apparently increased glory, while the +freshness and invigorating feel of the air was inexpressibly delightful. + +We did not court danger by hugging too closely any of the ugly reefs and +banks that abound in this notably difficult strait, but gave them all a +respectfully wide berth. It was a feature of our navigation that, unless +we had occasion to go near any island or reef for fishing or landing +purposes, we always kept a safe margin of distance away, which probably +accounts for our continued immunity from accident while in tortuous +waters. Our anchors and cables were, however, always kept ready for use +now, in case of an unsuspected current or sudden storm; but beyond that +precaution, I could see little or no difference in the manner of our +primitive navigation. + +We met with no "luck" for some time, and the faces of the harpooners +grew daily longer, the great heat of those sultry waters trying all +tempers sorely. But Captain Slocum knew his business, and his scowling, +impassive face showed no signs of disappointment, or indeed any other +emotion, as day by day we crept farther north. At last we sighted the +stupendous peak of Comoro mountain, which towers to nearly nine thousand +feet from the little island which gives its name to the Comoro group +of four. On that same day a school of medium-sized sperm whales were +sighted, which appeared to be almost of a different race to those with +which we had hitherto had dealings. They were exceedingly fat and lazy, +moving with the greatest deliberation, and, when we rushed in among +them, appeared utterly bewildered and panic-stricken, knowing not which +way to flee. Like a flock of frightened sheep they huddled together, +aimlessly wallowing in each other's way, while we harpooned them with +the greatest ease and impunity. Even the "old man" himself lowered +the fifth boat, leaving the ship to the carpenter, cooper, cook, and +steward, and coming on the scene as if determined to make a field-day of +the occasion. He was no "slouch" at the business either. Not that there +was much occasion or opportunity to exhibit any prowess. The record of +the day's proceedings would be as tame as to read of a day's work in a +slaughter-house. Suffice it to say, that we actually killed six whales, +none of whom were less than fifty barrels, no boat ran out more than +one hundred fathoms of line, neither was a bomb-lance used. Not the +slightest casualty occurred to any of the boats, and the whole work of +destruction was over in less than four hours. + +Then came the trouble. The fish were, of course somewhat widely +separated when they died, and the task of collecting all those immense +carcasses was one of no ordinary magnitude. Had it not been for the +wonderfully skilful handling of the ship, the task would, I should +think, have been impossible, but the way in which she was worked +compelled the admiration of anybody who knew what handling a ship meant. +Still, with all the ability manifested, it was five hours after the last +whale died before we had gathered them all alongside, bringing us to +four o'clock in the afternoon. + +A complete day under that fierce blaze of the tropical sun, without +other refreshment than an occasional furtive drink of tepid water, had +reduced us to a pitiable condition of weakness, so much so that the +skipper judged it prudent, as soon as the fluke-chains were passed, to +give us a couple of hours' rest. As soon as the sun had set we were all +turned to again, three cressets were prepared, and by their blaze we +toiled the whole night through. Truth compels me to state, though, that +none of us foremast hands had nearly such heavy work as the officers on +the stage. What they had to do demanded special knowledge and skill; but +it was also terribly hard work, constant and unremitting, while we at +the windlass had many a short spell between the lifting of the pieces. +Even the skipper took a hand, for the first time, and right manfully did +he do his share. + +By the first streak of dawn, three of the whales had been stripped of +their blubber, and five heads were bobbing astern at the ends of as many +hawsers. The sea all round presented a wonderful sight. There must have +been thousands of sharks gathered to the feast, and their incessant +incursions through the phosphorescent water wove a dazzling network of +brilliant tracks which made the eyes ache to look upon. A short halt was +called for breakfast, which was greatly needed, and, thanks to the cook, +was a thoroughly good one. He--blessings on him!--had been busy fishing, +as we drifted slowly, with savoury pieces of whale-beef for bait, and +the result was a mess of fish which would have gladdened the heart of an +epicure. Our hunger appeased, it was "turn to" again, for there was now +no time to be lost. The fierce heat soon acts upon the carcass of a +dead whale, generating an immense volume of gas within it, which, in a +wonderfully short space of time, turns the flesh putrid and renders the +blubber so rotten that it cannot be lifted, nor, if it could, would it +be of any value. So it was no wonder that our haste was great, or that +the august arbiter of our destinies himself condescended to take his +place among the toilers. By nightfall the whole of our catch was on +board, excepting such toll as the hungry hordes of sharks had levied +upon it in transit. A goodly number of them had paid the penalty of +their rapacity with their lives, for often one would wriggle his way +right up on to the reeking carcass, and, seizing a huge fragment of +blubber, strive with might and main to tear it away. Then the lethal +spade would drop upon his soft crown, cleaving it to the jaws, and with +one flap of his big tail he would loose his grip, roll over and over, +and sink, surrounded by a writhing crowd of his fellows, by whom he was +speedily reduced into digestible fragments. + +The condition of the CACHALOT's deck was now somewhat akin to chaos. +From the cabin door to the tryworks there was hardly an inch of +available space, and the oozing oil kept some of us continually baling +it up, lest it should leak out through the interstices in the bulwarks. +In order to avoid a breakdown, it became necessary to divide the crew +into six-hour watches, as although the work was exceedingly urgent on +account of the weather, there were evident signs that some of the crew +were perilously near giving in. So we got rest none too soon, and the +good effects of it were soon apparent. The work went on with much more +celerity than one would have thought possible, and soon the lumbered-up +decks began to resume their normal appearance. + +As if to exasperate the "old man" beyond measure on the third day of +our operations a great school of sperm whales appeared, disporting all +around the ship, apparently conscious of our helplessness to interfere +with them. Notwithstanding our extraordinary haul, Captain Slocum went +black with impotent rage, and, after glowering at the sportive monsters, +beat a retreat below, unable to bear the sight any longer. During his +absence we had a rare treat. The whole school surrounded the ship, and +performed some of the strangest evolutions imaginable. As if instigated +by one common impulse, they all elevated their massive heads above +the surface of the sea, and remained for some time in that position, +solemnly bobbing up and down amid the glittering wavelets like movable +boulders of black rock. Then, all suddenly reversed themselves, and, +elevating their broad flukes in the air, commenced to beat them slowly +and rhythmically upon the water, like so many machines. Being almost a +perfect calm, every movement of the great mammals could be plainly seen; +some of them even passed so near to us that we could see how the lower +jaw hung down, while the animal was swimming in a normal position. + +For over an hour they thus paraded around us, and then, as if startled +by some hidden danger, suddenly headed off to the westward, and in a few +minutes were out of our sight. + +We cruised in the vicinity of the Comoro Islands for two months, never +quite out of sight of the mountain while the weather was clear. During +the whole of that time we were never clear of oil on deck, one catch +always succeeding another before there had been time to get cleared +up. Eight hundred barrels of oil were added to our cargo, making the +undisciplined hearts of all to whom whaling was a novel employment beat +high with hopes of a speedy completion of the cargo, and consequent +return. Poor innocents that we were! How could we know any better? +According to Goliath, with whom I often had a friendly chat, this was +quite out of the ordinary run to have such luck in the "Channel." + +"'Way back in de dark ages, w'en de whaleships war de pi'neers +ob commerce, 'n day wan't no worryin', poofity-plukity steamboats +a-poundin' along, 'nough ter galley ebery whale clean eout ob dere skin, +dey war plenty whaleships fill up in twelve, fifteen, twenty monf' after +leabin' home. 'N er man bed his pick er places, too--didn' hab ter go +moseyin erroun' like some ol' hobo lookin' fer day's work, 'n prayin' +de good Lord not ter let um fine it. No, sah; roun yer China Sea, coas' +Japan, on de line, off shore, Vasquez, 'mong de islan's, ohmos' anywhar, +you couldn' hardly git way from 'em. Neow, I clar ter glory I kaint +imagine WAR dey all gone ter, dough we bin eout only six seven monf' 'n +got over tousan bar'l below. But I bin two year on er voy'ge and +doan hardly SEE a sparm while, much less catch one. But"--and here he +whispered mysteriously--"dish yer ole man's de bery debbil's own chile, +'n his farder lookin' after him well--dat's my 'pinion. Only yew keep +yer head tight shut, an' nebber say er word, but keep er lookin', 'n +sure's death you'll see." This conversation made a deep and lasting +impression upon me, for I had not before heard even so much as a +murmur from an officer against the tyranny of the skipper. Some of the +harpooners were fluent enough, too. + +Yet I had often thought that his treatment of them, considering the +strenuous nature of their toil, and the willingness with which they +worked as long as they had an ounce of energy left, was worth at least a +little kindness and courtesy on his part. + +What the period may have been during which whales were plentiful here, +I do not know, but it was now May, and for the last few days we had not +seen a solitary spout of any kind. Preparations, very slight it is +true, were made for departure; but before we left those parts we made +an interesting call for water at Mohilla, one of the Comoro group, +which brought out, in unmistakable fashion, the wonderful fund of local +knowledge possessed by these men. At the larger ports of Johanna and +Mayotte there is a regular tariff of port charges, which are somewhat +heavy, and no whaleman would be so reckless as to incur these unless +driven thereto by the necessity of obtaining provisions; otherwise, the +islands offer great inducements to whaling captains to call, since none +but men hopelessly mad would venture to desert in such places. That +qualification is the chief one for any port to possess in the eyes of a +whaling captain. + +Our skipper, however, saw no necessity for entering any port. Running up +under the lee of Mohilla, we followed the land along until we came to +a tiny bight on the western side of the island, an insignificant inlet +which no mariner in charge of a vessel like ours could be expected even +to notice, unless he were surveying. The approaches to this tiny harbour +(save the mark) were very forbidding. Ugly-looking rocks showed up here +and there, the surf over them frequently blinding the whole entry. +But we came along, in our usual leisurely fashion, under two topsails, +spanker, and fore-topmast staysail, and took that ugly passage like a +sailing barge entering the Medway. There was barely room to turn round +when we got inside, but all sail had been taken off her except the +spanker, so that her way was almost stopped by the time she was fairly +within the harbour. Down went the anchor, and she was fast--anchored for +the first time since leaving New Bedford seven months before. Here we +were shut out entirely from the outer world, for I doubt greatly whether +even a passing dhow could have seen us from seaward. We were not here +for rest, however, but wood and water; so while one party was supplied +with well-sharpened axes, and sent on shore to cut down such small trees +as would serve our turn, another party was busily employed getting out +a number of big casks for the serious business of watering. The cooper +knocked off the second or quarter hoops from each of these casks, and +drove them on again with two "beckets" or loops of rope firmly jammed +under each of them in such a manner that the loops were in line +with each other on each side of the bunghole. They were then lowered +overboard, and a long rope rove through all the beckets. When this was +done, the whole number of casks floated end to end, upright and secure. +We towed them ashore to where, by the skipper's directions, at about +fifty yards from high-water mark, a spring of beautiful water bubbled +out of the side of a mass of rock, losing itself in a deep crevice +below. Lovely ferns, rare orchids, and trailing plants of many kinds +surrounded this fairy-like spot in the wildest profusion, making a +tangle of greenery that we had considerable trouble to clear away. +Having done so, we led a long canvas hose from the spot whence the water +flowed down to the shore where the casks floated. The chief officer, +with great ingenuity, rigged up an arrangement whereby the hose, which +had a square month about a foot wide, was held up to the rock, saving us +the labour of bailing and filling by hand. So we were able to rest and +admire at our ease the wonderful variety of beautiful plants which grew +here so lavishly, unseen by mortal eye from one year's end to another. +I have somewhere read that the Creator has delight in the beautiful work +of His will, wherever it may be; and that while our egotism wonders at +the waste of beauty, as we call it, there is no waste at all, since the +Infinite Intelligence can dwell with complacency upon the glories of His +handiwork, perfectly fulfilling their appointed ends. + +All too soon the pleasant occupation came to an end. The long row of +casks, filled to the brim and tightly bunged, were towed off by us to +the ship, and ranged alongside. A tackle and pair of "can-hooks" was +overhauled to the water and hooked to a cask. "Hoist away!" And as the +cask rose, the beckets that had held it to the mother-rope were cut, +setting it quite free to come on board, but leaving all the others still +secure. In this way we took in several thousand gallons of water in a +few hours, with a small expenditure of labour, free of cost; whereas, +had we gone into Mayotte or Johanna, the water would have been bad, the +price high, the labour great, with the chances of a bad visitation of +fever in the bargain. + +The woodmen had a much more arduous task. The only wood they could find, +without cutting down big trees, which would have involved far too much +labour in cutting up, was a kind of iron-wood, which, besides being very +heavy, was so hard as to take pieces clean out of their axe-edges, +when a blow was struck directly across the grain. As none of them were +experts, the condition of their tools soon made their work very hard. +But that they had taken several axes in reserve, it is doubtful whether +they would have been able to get sufficient fuel for our purpose. +When they pitched the wood off the rocks into the harbour, it sank +immediately, giving them a great deal of trouble to fish it up again. +Neither could they raft it as intended, but were compelled to load it +into the boats and make several journeys to and fro before all they had +cut was shipped. Altogether, I was glad that the wooding had not fallen +to my share. On board the ship fishing had been going on steadily most +of the day by a few hands told off for the purpose. The result of their +sport was splendid, over two hundred-weight of fine fish of various +sorts, but all eatable, having been gathered in. + +We lay snugly anchored all night, keeping a bright look-out for any +unwelcome visitors either from land or sea, for the natives are not to +be trusted, neither do the Arab mongrels who cruise about those waters +in their dhows bear any too good a reputation. We saw none, however, +and at daylight we weighed and towed the ship out to sea with the boats, +there being no wind. While busy at this uninteresting pastime, one of +the boats slipped away, returning presently with a fine turtle, which +they had surprised during his morning's nap. One of the amphibious +Portuguese slipped over the boat's side as she neared the sleeping +SPHARGA, and, diving deep, came up underneath him, seizing with crossed +hands the two hind flippers, and, with a sudden, dexterous twist, turned +the astonished creature over on his back. Thus rendered helpless, the +turtle lay on the surface feebly waving his flippers, while his captor, +gently treading water, held him in that position till the boat reached +the pair and took them on board. It was a clever feat, neatly executed, +as unlike the clumsy efforts I had before seen made with the same object +as anything could possibly be. + +After an hour's tow, we had got a good offing, and a light air springing +up, we returned on board, hoisted the boats, and made sail to the +northward again. + +With the exception of the numerous native dhows that crept lazily about, +we saw no vessels as we gradually drew out of the Mozambique Channel and +stood away towards the Line. The part of the Indian Ocean in which we +now found ourselves is much dreaded by merchantmen, who give it a wide +berth on account of the numerous banks, islets, and dangerous currents +with which it abounds. We, however, seemed quite at home here, pursuing +the even tenor of our usual way without any special precautions being +taken. A bright look-out, we always kept, of course--none of your drowsy +lolling about such as is all too common on the "fo'lk'sle head" of many +a fine ship, when, with lights half trimmed or not shown at all, she is +ploughing along blindly at twelve knots or so an hour. No; while we were +under way during daylight, four pairs of keen eyes kept incessant vigil +a hundred feet above the deck, noting everything, even to a shoal +of small fish, that crossed within the range of vision. At night we +scarcely moved, but still a vigilant lookout was always kept both fore +and aft, so that it would have been difficult for us to drift upon a +reef unknowingly. + +Creeping steadily northward, we passed the Cosmoledo group of atolls +without paying them a visit, which was strange, as, from their +appearance, no better fishing-ground would be likely to come in our way. +They are little known, except to the wandering fishermen from Reunion +and Rodriguez, who roam about these islets and reefs, seeking anything +that may be turned into coin, from wrecks to turtle, and in nowise +particular as to rights of ownership. When between the Cosmoledos +and Astove, the next island to the northward, we sighted a "solitary" +cachalot one morning just as the day dawned. It was the first for some +time--nearly three weeks--and being all well seasoned to the work now, +we obeyed the call to arms with great alacrity. Our friend was making a +passage, turning neither to the right hand nor the left as he went. His +risings and number of spouts while up, as well as the time he remained +below, were as regular as the progress of a clock, and could be counted +upon with quite as much certainty. + +Bearing in mind, I suppose, the general character of the whales we had +recently met with, only two boats were lowered to attack the new-comer, +who, all unconscious of our coming, pursued his leisurely course +unheeding. + +We got a good weather gage of him, and came flying on as usual getting +two irons planted in fine style. But a surprise awaited us. As we +sheered up into the wind away from him, Louis shouted, "Fightin' whale, +sir; look out for de rush!" Look out, indeed? Small use in looking out +when, hampered as we always were at first with the unshipping of the +mast, we could do next to nothing to avoid him. Without any of the +desperate flounderings generally indulged in on first feeling the iron, +he turned upon us, and had it not been that he caught sight of the +second mate's boat, which had just arrived, and turned his attentions +to her, there would have been scant chance of any escape for us. Leaping +half out of water, he made direct for our comrades with a vigour and +ferocity marvellous to see, making it a no easy matter for them to avoid +his tremendous rush. Our actions, at no time slow, were considerably +hastened by this display of valour, so that before he could turn his +attentions in our direction we were ready for him. Then ensued a really +big fight, the first, in fact, of my experience, for none of the other +whales had shown any serious determination to do us an injury, but had +devoted all their energies to attempts at escape. So quick were the +evolutions, and so savage the appearance of this fellow, that even +our veteran mate looked anxious as to the possible result. Without +attempting to "sound," the furious monster kept mostly below the +surface; but whenever he rose, it was either to deliver a fearful blow +with his tail, or, with jaws widespread, to try and bite one of our +boats in half. Well was it for us that he was severely handicapped by +a malformation of the lower jaw. At a short distance from the throat +it turned off nearly at right angles to his body, the part that thus +protruded sideways being deeply fringed with barnacles, and plated with +big limpets. + +Had it not been for this impediment, I verily believe he would have +beaten us altogether. As it was, he worked us nearly to death with his +ugly rushes. Once he delivered a sidelong blow with his tail, which, as +we spun round, shore off the two oars on that side as if they had been +carrots. At last the second mate got fast to him, and then the character +of the game changed again. Apparently unwearied by his previous +exertions, he now started off to windward at top speed, with the +two boats sheering broadly out upon either side of his foaming wake. +Doubtless because he himself was much fatigued, the mate allowed him to +run at his will, without for the time attempting to haul any closer to +him, and very grateful the short rest was to us. But he had not gone +a couple of miles before he turned a complete somersault in the water, +coming up BEHIND us to rush off again in the opposite direction at +undiminished speed. This move was a startler. For the moment it seemed +as if both boats would be smashed like egg-shells against each other, +or else that some of us would be impaled upon the long lances with which +each boat's bow bristled. By what looked like a handbreadth, we cleared +each other, and the race continued. Up till now we had not succeeded +in getting home a single lance, the foe was becoming warier, while the +strain was certainly telling upon our nerves. So Mr. Count got out his +bomb-gun, shouting at the same time to Mr. Cruce to do the same. They +both hated these weapons, nor ever used them if they could help it; but +what was to be done? + +Our chief had hardly got his gun ready, before we came to almost a +dead stop. All was silent for just a moment; then, with a roar like a +cataract, up sprang the huge creature, head out, jaw wide open, coming +direct for us. As coolly as if on the quarter-deck, the mate raised his +gun, firing the bomb directly down the great livid cavern of a throat +fronting him. Down went that mountainous head not six inches from us, +but with a perfectly indescribable motion, a tremendous writhe, in fact; +up flew the broad tail in air, and a blow which might have sufficed +to stave in the side of the ship struck the second mate's boat fairly +amidships. It was right before my eyes, not sixty feet away, and the +sight will haunt me to my death. The tub oarsman was the poor German +baker, about whom I have hitherto said nothing, except to note that he +was one of the crew. That awful blow put an end summarily to all his +earthly anxieties. As it shore obliquely through the centre of the boat, +it drove his poor body right through her timbers--an undistinguishable +bundle of what was an instant before a human being. The other members of +the crew escaped the blow, and the harpooner managed to cut the line, so +that for the present they were safe enough, clinging to the remains of +their boat, unless the whale should choose to rush across them. + +Happily, his rushing was almost over. The bomb fired by Mr. Count, with +such fatal result to poor Bamberger, must have exploded right in the +whale's throat. Whether his previous titanic efforts had completely +exhausted him, or whether the bomb had broken his massive backbone, I do +not know, of course, but he went into no flurry, dying as peacefully as +his course had been furious. For the first time in my life, I had been +face to face with a violent death, and I was quite stunned with the +awfulness of the experience. Mechanically, as it seemed to me, we +obeyed such orders as were given, but every man's thoughts were with the +shipmate so suddenly dashed from amongst us. We never saw sign of him +again. + +While the ship was running down to us, another boat had gone to rescue +the clinging crew of the shattered boat, for the whole drama had been +witnessed from the ship, although they were not aware of the death of +the poor German. When the sad news was told on board, there was a deep +silence, all work being carried on so quietly that we seemed like a crew +of dumb men. With a sentiment for which I should not have given our grim +skipper credit, the stars and stripes were hoisted half-mast, telling +the silent sky and moaning sea, sole witnesses besides ourselves, of the +sudden departure from among us of our poor shipmate. We got the whale +cut in as usual without any incident worth mentioning, except that the +peculiar shape of the jaw made it an object of great curiosity to all +of us who were new to the whale-fishing. Such malformations are not very +rare. They are generally thought to occur when the animal is young, and +its bones soft; but whether done in fighting with one another, or +in some more mysterious way, nobody knows. Cases have been known, I +believe, where the deformed whale does not appear to have suffered from +lack of food in consequence of his disability; but in each of the three +instances which have come under my own notice, such was certainly not +the case. These whales were what is termed by the whalers "dry-skins;" +that is, they were in poor condition, the blubber yielding less than +half the usual quantity of oil. The absence of oil makes it very hard +to cut up, and there is more work in one whale of this kind than in two +whose blubber is rich and soft. Another thing which I have also noticed +is, that these whales were much more difficult to tackle than others, +for each of them gave us something special to remember them by. But I +must not get ahead of my yarn. + +The end of the week brought us up to the Aldabra Islands, one of +the puzzles of the world. For here, in these tiny pieces of earth, +surrounded by thousands of miles of sea, the nearest land a group of +islets like unto them, is found the gigantic tortoise, and in only one +other place in the wide world, the Galapagos group of islands in the +South Pacific. How, or by what strange freak of Dame Nature these +curious reptiles, sole survivals of another age, should come to be +found in this lonely spot, is a deep mystery, and one not likely to be +unfolded now. At any rate, there they are, looking as if some of them +might be coeval with Noah, so venerable and storm-beaten do they appear. + +We made the island early on a Sunday morning, and, with the usual +celerity, worked the vessel into the fine harbour, called, from one +of the exploring ships, Euphrates Bay or Harbour. The anchor down, and +everything made snug below and aloft, we were actually allowed a run +ashore free from restraint. I could hardly believe my ears. We had got +so accustomed to our slavery that liberty was become a mere name; we +hardly knew what to do with it when we got it. However, we soon got used +(in a very limited sense) to being our own masters, and, each following +the bent of his inclinations, set out for a ramble. My companion and I +had not gone far, when we thought we saw one of the boulders, with which +the island was liberally besprinkled, on the move. Running up to examine +it with all the eagerness of children let out of school, we found it to +be one of the inhabitants, a monstrous tortoise. I had some big turtle +around the cays of the Gulf of Mexico, but this creature dwarfed them +all. We had no means of actually measuring him, and had to keep clear +of his formidable-looking jaws, but roughly, and within the mark, he was +four feet long by two feet six inches wide. Of course he was much more +dome-shaped than the turtle are, and consequently looked a great deal +bigger than a turtle of the same measurement would, besides being much +thicker through. As he was loth to stay with us, we made up our minds to +go with him, for he was evidently making for some definite spot, by the +tracks he was following, which showed plainly how many years that same +road had been used. Well, I mounted on his back, keeping well astern, +out of the reach of that serious-looking head, which having rather a +long neck, looked as if it might be able to reach round and take a +piece out of a fellow without any trouble. He was perfectly amicable, +continuing his journey as if nothing had happened, and really getting +over the ground at a good rate, considering the bulk and shape of him. +Except for the novelty of the thing, this sort of ride had nothing to +recommend it; so I soon tired of it, and let him waddle along in peace. +By following the tracks aforesaid, we arrived at a fine stream of water +sparkling out of a hillside, and running down a little ravine. The sides +of this gully were worn quite smooth by the innumerable feet of the +tortoises, about a dozen of which were now quietly crouching at the +water's edge, filling themselves up with the cooling fluid. I did not +see the patriarch upon whom a sailor once reported that he had read the +legend carved, "The Ark, Captain Noah, Ararat for orders"; perhaps he +had at last closed his peaceful career. But strange, and quaint as this +exhibition of ancient reptiles was, we had other and better employment +for the limited time at our disposal. There were innumerable curious +things to see, and, unless we were to run the risk of going on board +again and stopping there, dinner must be obtained. Eggs of various +kinds were exceedingly plentiful; in many places the flats were almost +impassable for sitting birds, mostly "boobies." + +But previous experience of boobies' eggs in other places had not +disposed me to seek them where others were to be obtained, and as I had +seen many of the well-known frigate or man-o'-war birds hovering +about, we set out to the other side of the island in search of the +breeding-place. + +These peculiar birds are, I think, misnamed. They should be called +pirate or buccaneer birds, from their marauding habits. Seldom or never +do they condescend to fish for themselves, preferring to hover high in +the blue, their tails opening and closing like a pair of scissors +as they hang poised above the sea. Presently booby--like some honest +housewife who has been a-marketing--comes flapping noisily home, her maw +laden with fish for the chicks. Down comes the black watcher from above +with a swoop like an eagle. Booby puts all she knows into her flight, +but vainly; escape is impossible, so with a despairing shriek she +drops her load. Before it has touched the water the graceful thief has +intercepted it, and soared slowly aloft again, to repeat the performance +as occasion serves. + +When we arrived on the outer shore of the island, we found a large +breeding-place of these birds, but totally different to the haunt of +the boobies. The nests, if they might be so called, being at best a few +twigs, were mostly in the hollows of the rocks, the number of eggs +being two to a nest, on an average. The eggs were nearly as large as a +turkey's. But I am reminded of the range of size among turkeys' eggs, +so I must say they were considerably larger than a small turkey's egg. +Their flavour was most delicate, as much so as the eggs of a moor-fed +fowl. We saw no birds sitting, but here and there the gaunt skeleton +forms of birds, who by reason of sickness or old age were unable to +provide for themselves, and so sat waiting for death, appealed most +mournfully to us. We went up to some of these poor creatures, and ended +their long agony; but there were many of them that we were obliged to +leave to Nature. + +We saw no animals larger than a rat, but there were a great many +of those eerie-looking land-crabs, that seemed as if almost humanly +intelligent as they scampered about over the sand or through the +undergrowth, busy about goodness knows what. The beautiful cocoa-nut +palm was plentiful, so much so that I wondered why there were no +settlers to collect "copra," or dried cocoa-nut, for oil. My West Indian +experience came in handy now, for I was able to climb a lofty tree in +native fashion, and cut down a grand bunch of green nuts, which form one +of the most refreshing and nutritious of foods, as well as a cool and +delicious drink. We had no line with us, so we took off our belts, +which, securely joined together, answered my purpose very well. With +them I made a loop round the tree and myself; then as I climbed I pushed +the loop up with me, so that whenever I wanted a rest, I had only to +lean back in it, keeping my knees against the trunk, and I was almost as +comfortable as if on the ground. + +After getting the nuts, we made a fire and roasted some of our eggs, +which, with a biscuit or two, made a delightful meal. Then we fell +asleep under a shady tree, upon some soft moss; nor did we wake again +until nearly time to go on board. A most enjoyable swim terminated our +day's outing, and we returned to the beach abreast of the ship very +pleased with the excursion. + +We had no adventures, found no hidden treasure or ferocious animals, but +none the less we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. While we sat waiting for +the boat to come and fetch us off, we saw a couple of good-sized turtle +come ashore quite close to us. We kept perfectly still until we were +sure of being able to intercept them. As soon as they had got far enough +away from their native element, we rushed upon them, and captured them +both, so that when the boat arrived we were not empty-handed. We had +also a "jumper," or blouse, full of eggs, and a couple of immense +bunches of cocoa-nuts. When we got on board we felt quite happy, and, +for the first time since leaving America, we had a little singing. Shall +I be laughed at when I confess that our musical efforts were confined +to Sankey's hymns? Maybe, but I do not care. Cheap and clap-trap as the +music may be, it tasted "real good," as Abner said, and I am quite sure +that that Sunday night was the best that any of us had spent for a very +long time. + +A long, sound sleep was terminated at dawn, when we weighed and stood +out through a narrow passage by East Island, which was quite covered +with fine trees--of what kind I do not know, but they presented a +beautiful sight. Myriads of birds hovered about, busy fishing from the +countless schools that rippled the placid sea. Beneath us, at twenty +fathoms, the wonderful architecture of the coral was plainly visible +through the brilliantly-clear sea, while, wherever the tiny builders had +raised their fairy domain near the surface, an occasional roller would +crown it with a snowy garland of foam--a dazzling patch of white against +the sapphire sea. Altogether, such a panorama was spread out at our +feet, as we stood gazing from the lofty crow's-nest, as was worth a year +or two of city life to witness. I could not help pitying my companion, +one of the Portuguese harpooners, who stolidly munched his quid with no +eyes for any of these glorious pictures, no thought of anything but a +possible whale in sight. + +My silent rhapsodies were rudely interrupted by something far away on +the horizon. Hardly daring to breathe, I strained my eyes, and--yes, +it was--"Ah blow-w-w-w!" I bellowed at the top of my lung-power, never +before had I had the opportunity of thus distinguishing myself, and I +felt a bit sore about it. + +There was a little obliquity about the direction of the spout that made +me hopeful, for the cachalot alone sends his spout diagonally upward, +all the others spout vertically. It was but a school of kogia, or +"short-headed" cachalots; but as we secured five of them, averaging +seven barrels each, with scarcely any trouble, I felt quite pleased with +myself. We had quite an exciting bit of sport with them, they were so +lively; but as for danger--well, they only seemed like big "black fish" +to us now, and we quite enjoyed the fun. They were, in all respects, +miniature sperm whales, except that the head was much shorter and +smaller in proportion to the body than their big relations. + + + + + +CHAPTER XI. ROUND THE COCOS AND SEYCHELLES + +Hitherto, with the exception of a couple of gales in the North and +South Atlantic, we had been singularly fortunate in our weather. It does +happen so sometimes. + +I remember once making a round voyage from Cardiff to Hong Kong and the +Philippines, back to London, in ten months, and during the whole of that +time we did not have a downright gale. The worst weather we encountered +was between Beachy Head and Portland, going round from London to +Cardiff. + +And I once spoke the barque LUTTERWORTH, a companion ship to us from +Portland, Oregon to Falmouth, whose mate informed me that they carried +their royals from port to port without ever furling them once, except +to shift the suit of sails. But now a change was evidently imminent. Of +course, we forward had no access to the barometer; not that we should +have understood its indications if we had seen it, but we all knew that +something was going to be radically wrong with the weather. For instead +of the lovely blue of the sky we had been so long accustomed to by +day and night, a nasty, greasy shade had come over the heavens, +which, reflected in the sea, made that look dirty and stale also. That +well-known appearance of the waves before a storm was also very marked, +which consists of an undecided sort of break in their tops. Instead of +running regularly, they seemed to hunch themselves up in little heaps, +and throw off a tiny flutter of spray, which generally fell in the +opposite direction to what little wind there was. The pigs and fowls +felt the approaching change keenly, and manifested the greatest +uneasiness, leaving their food and acting strangely. We were making +scarcely any headway, so that the storm was longer making its appearance +than it would have been had we been a swift clipper ship running down +the Indian Ocean. For two days we were kept in suspense; but on the +second night the gloom began to deepen, the wind to moan, and a very +uncomfortable "jobble" of a sea got up. Extra "gaskets" were put upon +the sails, and everything movable about the decks was made as secure as +it could be. Only the two close-reefed topsails and two storm stay-sails +were carried, so that we were in excellent trim for fighting the bad +weather when it did come. The sky gradually darkened and assumed a livid +green tint, the effect of which was most peculiar. + +The wind blew fitfully in short, gusts, veering continually back and +forth over about a quarter of the compass. Although it was still light, +it kept up an incessant mournful moan not to be accounted for in +any way. Darker and darker grew the heavens, although no clouds were +visible, only a general pall of darkness. Glimmering lightnings played +continually about the eastern horizon, but not brilliant enough to show +us the approaching storm-cloud. And so came the morning of the third +day from the beginning of the change. But for the clock we should hardly +have known that day had broken, so gloomy and dark was the sky. At last +light came in the east, but such a light as no one would wish to see. It +was a lurid glare, such as may be seen playing over a cupola of Bessemer +steel when the speigeleisen is added, only on such an extensive scale +that its brilliancy was dulled into horror. Then, beneath it we saw the +mountainous clouds fringed with dull violet and with jagged sabres of +lightning darting from their solid black bosoms. The wind began to rise +steadily but rapidly, so that by eight a.m. it was blowing a furious +gale from E.N.E. In direction it was still unsteady, the ship coming up +and falling off to it several points. Now, great masses of torn, +ragged cloud hurtled past us above, so low down as almost to touch the +mastheads. Still the wind increased, still the sea rose, till at last +the skipper judged it well to haul down the tiny triangle of storm +stay-sail still set (the topsail and fore stay-sail had been furled long +before), and let her drift under bare poles, except for three square +feet of stout canvas in the weather mizen-rigging. The roar of the +wind now dominated every sound, so that it might have been thundering +furiously, but we should not have heard it. The ship still maintained +her splendid character as a sea-boat, hardly shipping a drop of water; +but she lay over at a most distressing angle, her deck sloping off fully +thirty-five to forty degrees. Fortunately she did not roll to windward. +It may have been raining in perfect torrents, but the tempest tore off +the surface of the sea, and sent it in massive sheets continually flying +over us, so that we could not possibly have distinguished between fresh +water and salt. + +The chief anxiety was for the safety of the boats. Early on the second +day of warning they had been hoisted to the topmost notch of the cranes, +and secured as thoroughly as experience could suggest; but at every lee +lurch we gave it seemed as if we must dip them under water, while the +wind threatened to stave the weather ones in by its actual solid weight. +It was now blowing a furious cyclone, the force of which has never been +accurately gauged (even by the present elaborate instruments of various +kinds in use). That force is, however, not to be imagined by any one who +has not witnessed it, except that one notable instance is on record by +which mathematicians may get an approximate estimate. + +Captain Toynbee, the late highly respected and admired Marine +Superintendent of the British Meteorological Office, has told us how, +during a cyclone which he rode out in the HOTSPUR at Sandheads, the +mouth of the Hooghly, the three naked topgallant-masts of his ship, +though of well-tested timber a foot in diameter, and supported by all +the usual network of stays, and without the yards, were snapped off and +carried away solely by the violence of the wind. It must, of course, +have been an extreme gust, which did not last many seconds, for no cable +that was ever forged would have held the ship against such a cataclysm +as that. This gentleman's integrity is above suspicion, so that no +exaggeration could be charged against him, and he had the additional +testimony of his officers and men to this otherwise incredible fact. + +The terrible day wore on, without any lightening of the tempest, till +noon, when the wind suddenly fell to a calm. Until that time, the sea, +although heavy, was not vicious or irregular, and we had not shipped +any heavy water at all. But when the force of the wind was suddenly +withdrawn, such a sea arose as I have never seen before or since. Inky +mountains of water raised their savage heads in wildest confusion, +smashing one another in whirlpools of foam. It was like a picture of the +primeval deep out of which arose the new-born world. Suddenly out of +the whirling blackness overhead the moon appeared, nearly in the zenith, +sending down through the apex of a dome of torn and madly gyrating cloud +a flood of brilliant light. Illumined by that startling radiance, our +staunch and seaworthy ship was tossed and twirled in the hideous vortex +of mad sea until her motion was distracting. It was quite impossible to +loose one's hold and attempt to do anything without running the imminent +risk of being dashed to pieces. Our decks were full of water now, for +it tumbled on board at all points; but as yet no serious weight of a sea +had fallen upon us, nor had any damage been done. Such a miracle as that +could not be expected to continue for long. Suddenly a warning shout +rang out from somewhere--"Hold on all, for your lives!" Out of the +hideous turmoil around arose, like some black, fantastic ruin, an awful +heap of water. Higher and higher it towered, until it was level with our +lower yards, then it broke and fell upon us. All was blank. Beneath that +mass every thought, every feeling, fled but one--"How long shall I +be able to hold my breath?" After what seemed a never-ending time, we +emerged from the wave more dead than alive, but with the good ship still +staunch underneath us, and Hope's lamp burning brightly. The moon +had been momentarily obscured, but now shone out again, lighting up +brilliantly our bravely-battling ship. But, alas for others!--men, +like ourselves, whose hopes were gone. Quite near us was the battered +remainder of what had been a splendid ship. Her masts were gone, not +even the stumps being visible, and it seemed to our eager eyes as if she +was settling down. It was even so, for as we looked, unmindful of our +own danger, she quietly disappeared--swallowed up with her human freight +in a moment, like a pebble dropped into a pond. + +While we looked with hardly beating hearts at the place where she had +sunk, all was blotted out in thick darkness again. With a roar, as of +a thousand thunders, the tempest came once more, but from the opposite +direction now. As we were under no sail, we ran little risk of being +caught aback; but, even had we, nothing could have been done, the vessel +being utterly out of control, besides the impossibility of getting +about. It so happened, however, that when the storm burst upon us again, +we were stern on to it, and we drove steadily for a few moments until we +had time to haul to the wind again. Great heavens! how it blew! Surely, +I thought, this cannot last long--just as we sometimes say of the +rain when it is extra heavy. It did last, however, for what seemed an +interminable time, although any one could see that the sky was getting +kindlier. Gradually, imperceptibly, it took off, the sky cleared, and +the tumult ceased, until a new day broke in untellable beauty over a +revivified world. + +Years afterwards I read, in one of the hand-books treating of hurricanes +and cyclones, that "in the centre of these revolving storms the sea is +so violent that few ships can pass through it and live." That is true +talk. I have been there, and bear witness that but for the build and +sea-kindliness of the CACHALOT, she could not have come out of that +horrible cauldron again, but would have joined that nameless unfortunate +whom we saw succumb, "never again heard of." As it was, we found two +of the boats stove in, whether by breaking sea or crushing wind nobody +knows. Most of the planking of the bulwarks was also gone, burst outward +by the weight of the water on deck. Only the normal quantity of water +was found in the well on sounding, and not even a rope-yarn was gone +from aloft. Altogether, we came out of the ordeal triumphantly, where +many a gallant vessel met her fate, and the behaviour of the grand old +tub gave me a positive affection for her, such as I have never felt for +a ship before or since. + +There was now a big heap of work for the carpenter, so the skipper +decided to run in for the Cocos or Keeling islands, in order to lay +quietly and refit. We had now only three boats sound, the one smashed +when poor Bamberger died being still unfinished--of course, the repairs +had practically amounted to rebuilding. Therefore we kept away for this +strange assemblage of reefs and islets, arriving off them early the next +day. + +They consist of a true "atoll," or basin, whose rim is of coral +reefs, culminating occasionally in sandy islands or cays formed by the +accumulated debris washed up from the reef below, and then clothed upon +with all sorts of plants by the agency of birds and waves. + +These islands have lately been so fully described in many different +journals, that I shall not burden the reader with any twice-told tales +about them, but merely chronicle the fact that for a week we lay at +anchor off one of the outlying cays, toiling continuously to get the +vessel again in fighting trim. + +At last the overworked carpenter and his crew got through their heavy +task, and the order was given to "man the windlass." Up came the anchor, +and away we went again towards what used to be a noted haunt of the +sperm whale, the Seychelle Archipelego. Before the French, whose flag +flies over these islands, had with their usual short-sighted policy, +clapped on prohibitive port charges, Mahe was a specially favoured place +of call for the whalers. But when whale-ships find that it does not pay +to visit a place, being under no compulsion as regards time, they soon +find other harbours that serve their turn. We, of course, had no need to +visit any port for some time to come, having made such good use of our +opportunities at the Cocos. + +We found whales scarce and small, so, although we cruised in this +vicinity for nearly two months, six small cow cachalots were all we were +able to add to our stock, representing less then two hundred barrels +of oil. This was hardly good enough for Captain Slocum. Therefore, we +gradually drew away from this beautiful cluster of islands, and crept +across the Indian Ocean towards the Straits of Malacca. On the way, we +one night encountered that strange phenomenon, a "milk" sea. It was a +lovely night, with scarcely any wind, the stars trying to make up for +the absence of the moon by shining with intense brightness. The water +had been more phosphorescent than usual, so that every little fish left +a track of light behind him, greatly disproportionate to his size. As +the night wore on, the sea grew brighter and brighter, until by midnight +we appeared to be sailing on an ocean of lambent flames. Every little +wave that broke against the ship's side sent up a shower of diamond-like +spray, wonderfully beautiful to see, while a passing school of porpoises +fairly set the sea blazing as they leaped and gambolled in its glowing +waters. Looking up from sea to sky, the latter seemed quite black +instead of blue, and the lustre of the stars was diminished till they +only looked like points of polished steel, having quite lost for the +time their radiant sparkle. In that shining flood the blackness of the +ship stood out in startling contrast, and when we looked over the side +our faces were strangely lit up by the brilliant glow. + +For several hours this beautiful appearance persisted, fading away +at last as gradually as it came. No satisfactory explanation of this +curious phenomenon has ever been given, nor does it appear to portend +any change of weather. It cannot be called a rare occurrence, although +I have only seen it thrice myself--once in the Bay of Cavite, in the +Philippine Islands; once in the Pacific, near the Solomon Islands; and +on this occasion of which I now write. But no one who had ever witnessed +it could forget so wonderful a sight. + +One morning, a week after are had taken our departure from the +Seychelles, the officer at the main crow's-nest reported a vessel of +some sort about five miles to the windward. Something strange in her +appearance made the skipper haul up to intercept her. As we drew nearer, +we made her out to be a Malay "prahu;" but, by the look of her, she +was deserted. The big three-cornered sail that had been set, hung in +tattered festoons from the long, slender yard, which, without any gear +to steady it, swung heavily to and fro as the vessel rolled to the long +swell. We drew closer and closer, but no sign of life was visible on +board, so the captain ordered a boat to go and investigate. + +In two minutes we were speeding away towards her, and, making a sweep +round her stern, prepared to board her. But we were met by a stench +so awful that Mr. Count would not proceed, and at once returned to the +ship. The boat was quickly hoisted again, and the ship manoeuvred to +pass close to windward of the derelict. Then, from our mast-head, a +horrible sight became visible. Lying about the weather-beaten deck, +in various postures, were thirteen corpses, all far advanced in decay, +which horrible fact fully accounted for the intolerable stench that had +driven us away. It is, perhaps, hardly necessary to say that we promptly +hauled our wind, and placed a good distance between us and that awful +load of death as soon as possible. Poor wretches! What terrible calamity +had befallen them, we could not guess; whatever it was, it had been +complete; nor would any sane man falling across them run the risk of +closer examination into details than we had done. It was a great pity +that we were not able to sink the prahu with her ghastly cargo, and so +free the air from that poisonous foetor that was a deadly danger to any +vessel getting under her lee. + +Next day, and for a whole week after, we had a stark calm such a calm as +one realizes who reads sympathetically that magical piece of work, the +"Ancient Mariner." What an amazing instance of the triumph of the human +imagination! For Coleridge certainly never witnessed such a scene as he +there describes with an accuracy of detail that is astounding. Very +few sailors have noticed the sickening condition of the ocean when the +life-giving breeze totally fails for any length of time, or, if they +have, they have said but little about it. Of course, some parts of the +sea show the evil effects of stagnation much sooner than others; but, +generally speaking, want of wind at sea, if long continued, produces +a condition of things dangerous to the health of any land near by. +Whale-ships, penetrating as they do to parts carefully avoided by +ordinary trading vessels, often afford their crews an opportunity of +seeing things mostly hidden from the sight of man, when, actuated by +some mysterious impulse, the uncanny denizens of the middle depths of +the ocean rise to higher levels, and show their weird shapes to the sun. + + + + + +CHAPTER XII. WHICH TREATS OF THE KRAKEN + +It has often been a matter for considerable surprise to me, that while +the urban population of Great Britain is periodically agitated over the +great sea-serpent question, sailors, as a class, have very little to say +on the subject. During a considerable sea experience in all classes of +vessels, except men-of-war, and in most positions, I have heard a fairly +comprehensive catalogue of subjects brought under dog-watch discussion; +but the sea-serpent has never, within my recollection, been one of them. + +The reasons for this abstinence may vary a great deal, but chief among +them is--sailors, as a class, "don't believe in no such a pusson." More +than that, they do believe that the mythical sea-serpent is "boomed" +at certain periods, in the lack of other subjects, which may not be +far from the fact. But there is also another reason, involving a +disagreeable, although strictly accurate, statement. Sailors are, again +taken as a class, the least observant of men. They will talk by the +hour of trivialities about which they know nothing; they will spin +interminable "cuffers" of debaucheries ashore all over the world; pick +to pieces the reputation of all the officers with whom they have ever +sailed; but of the glories, marvels, and mysteries of the mighty deep +you will hear not a word. I can never forget when on my first voyage to +the West Indies, at the age of twelve, I was one night smitten with awe +and wonder at the sight of a vast halo round the moon, some thirty or +forty degrees in diameter. Turning to the man at the wheel, I asked him +earnestly "what THAT was." He looked up with an uninterested eye for +an instant in the direction of my finger, then listlessly informed me, +"That's what they call a sarcle." For a long time I wondered what he +could mean, but it gradually dawned upon me that it was his Norfolk +pronunciation of the word "circle." The definition was a typical one, no +worse than would be given by the great majority of seamen of most of the +natural phenomena they witness daily. Very few seamen could distinguish +between one whale and another of a different species, or give an +intelligible account of the most ordinary and often-seen denizens of the +sea. Whalers are especially to be blamed for their blindness. "Eyes and +no Eyes; or the Art of Seeing" has evidently been little heard of among +them. To this day I can conceive of no more delightful journey for a +naturalist to take than a voyage in a southern whaler, especially if he +were allowed to examine at his leisure such creatures as were caught. +But on board the CACHALOT I could get no information at all upon the +habits of the strange creatures we met with, except whales, and very +little about them. + +I have before referred to the great molluscs upon which the sperm whale +feeds, portions of which I so frequently saw ejected from the stomach of +dying whales. Great as my curiosity naturally was to know more of these +immense organisms, all my inquiries on the subject were fruitless. These +veterans of the whale-fishery knew that the sperm whale lived on big +cuttlefish; but they neither knew, nor cared to know, anything more +about these marvellous molluscs. Yet, from the earliest dawn of history, +observant men have been striving to learn something definite about the +marine monsters of which all old legends of the sea have something to +say. + +As I mentioned in the last chapter, we were gradually edging across the +Indian Ocean towards Sumatra, but had been checked in our course by a +calm lasting a whole week. A light breeze then sprang up, aided by which +we crept around Achin Head, the northern point of the great island of +Sumatra. Like some gigantic beacon, the enormous mass of the Golden +Mountain dominated the peaceful scene. Pulo Way, or Water Island, looked +very inviting, and I should have been glad to visit a place so well +known to seamen by sight, but so little known by actual touching at. +Our recent stay at the Cocos, however, had settled the question of our +calling anywhere else for some time decidedly in the negative, unless we +might be compelled by accident; moreover, even in these days of law +and order, it is not wise to go poking about among the islands of the +Malayan seas unless you are prepared to fight. Our mission being to +fight whales, we were averse to running any risks, except in the lawful +and necessary exercise of our calling. + +It would at first sight appear strange that, in view of the enormous +traffic of steamships through the Malacca Straits, so easily "gallied" +a creature as the cachalot should care to frequent its waters; indeed, +I should certainly think that a great reduction in the numbers of whales +found there must have taken place. But it must also be remembered, that +in modern steam navigation certain well-defined courses are laid down, +which vessels follow from point to point with hardly any deviation +therefrom, and that consequently little disturbance of the sea by their +panting propellers takes place, except upon these marine pathways; as, +for instance, in the Red Sea, where the examination of thousands of +log-books proved conclusively that, except upon straight lines drawn +from point to point between Suez to Perim, the sea is practically unused +to-day. + +The few Arab dhows and loitering surveying ships hardly count in this +connection, of course. At any rate, we had not entered the straits, but +were cruising between Car Nicobar and Junkseylon, when we "met up" with +a full-grown cachalot, as ugly a customer as one could wish. From nine +a.m. till dusk the battle raged--for I have often noticed that unless +you kill your whale pretty soon, he gets so wary, as well as fierce, +that you stand a gaudy chance of being worn down yourselves before you +settle accounts with your adversary. This affair certainly looked at one +time as if such would be the case with us; but along about five p.m., +to our great joy, we got him killed. The ejected food was in masses of +enormous size, larger than any we had yet seen on the voyage, some of +them being estimated to be of the size of our hatch-house, viz. 8 feet x +6 feet x 6 feet. The whale having been secured alongside, all hands were +sent below, as they were worn out with the day's work. The third mate +being ill, I had been invested with the questionable honour of standing +his watch, on account of my sea experience and growing favour with the +chief. Very bitterly did I resent the privilege at the time, I remember, +being so tired and sleepy that I knew not how to keep awake. I did +not imagine that anything would happen to make me prize that night's +experience for the rest of my life, or I should have taken matters with +a far better grace. + +At about eleven p.m. I was leaning over the lee rail, grazing steadily +at the bright surface of the sea, where the intense radiance of the +tropical moon made a broad path like a pavement of burnished silver. +Eyes that saw not, mind only confusedly conscious of my surroundings, +were mine; but suddenly I started to my feet with an exclamation, and +stared with all my might at the strangest sight I ever saw. There was +a violent commotion in the sea right where the moon's rays were +concentrated, so great that, remembering our position, I was at first +inclined to alarm all hands; for I had often heard of volcanic islands +suddenly lifting their heads from the depths below, or disappearing in +a moment, and, with Sumatra's chain of active volcanoes so near, I felt +doubtful indeed of what was now happening. Getting the night-glasses +out of the cabin scuttle, where they were always hung in readiness, +I focussed them on the troubled spot, perfectly satisfied by a short +examination that neither volcano nor earthquake had anything to do with +what was going on; yet so vast were the forces engaged that I might well +have been excused for my first supposition. A very large sperm whale was +locked in deadly conflict with a cuttle-fish or squid, almost as large +as himself, whose interminable tentacles seemed to enlace the whole +of his great body. The head of the whale especially seemed a perfect +net-work of writhing arms--naturally I suppose, for it appeared as +if the whale had the tail part of the mollusc in his jaws, and, in a +business-like, methodical way, was sawing through it. By the side of the +black columnar head of the whale appeared the head of the great squid, +as awful an object as one could well imagine even in a fevered dream. +Judging as carefully as possible, I estimated it to be at least as large +as one of our pipes, which contained three hundred and fifty gallons; +but it may have been, and probably was, a good deal larger. The eyes +were very remarkable from their size and blackness, which, contrasted +with the livid whiteness of the head, made their appearance all the more +striking. They were, at least, a foot in diameter, and, seen under such +conditions, looked decidedly eerie and hobgoblin-like. All around the +combatants were numerous sharks, like jackals round a lion, ready to +share the feast, and apparently assisting in the destruction of the huge +cephalopod. So the titanic struggle went on, in perfect silence as +far as we were concerned, because, even had there been any noise, our +distance from the scene of conflict would not have permitted us to hear +it. + +Thinking that such a sight ought not to be missed by the captain, I +overcame my dread of him sufficiently to call him, and tell him of what +was taking place. He met my remarks with such a furious burst of anger +at my daring to disturb him for such a cause, that I fled precipitately +on deck again, having the remainder of the vision to myself, for none +of the others cared sufficiently for such things to lose five minutes' +sleep in witnessing them. The conflict ceased, the sea resumed its +placid calm, and nothing remained to tell of the fight but a strong +odour of fish, as of a bank of seaweed left by the tide in the blazing +sun. Eight bells struck, and I went below to a troubled sleep, wherein +all the awful monsters that an over-excited brain could conjure up +pursued me through the gloomy caves of ocean, or mocked my pigmy efforts +to escape. + +The occasions upon which these gigantic cuttle-fish appear at the sea +surface must, I think, be very rare. From their construction, they +appear fitted only to grope among the rocks at the bottom of the ocean. +Their mode of progression is backward, by the forcible ejection of a +jet of water from an orifice in the neck, beside the rectum or cloaca. +Consequently their normal position is head-downward, and with tentacles +spread out like the ribs of an umbrella--eight of them at least; the +two long ones, like the antennae of an insect, rove unceasingly around, +seeking prey. + +The imagination can hardly picture a more terrible object than one +of these huge monsters brooding in the ocean depths, the gloom of his +surroundings increased by the inky fluid (sepia) which he secretes in +copious quantities, every cup-shaped disc, of the hundreds with which +the restless tentacles are furnished, ready at the slightest touch to +grip whatever is near, not only by suction, but by the great claws +set all round within its circle. And in the centre of this net-work of +living traps is the chasm-like mouth, with its enormous parrot-beak, +ready to rend piecemeal whatever is held by the tentaculae. The very +thought of it makes one's flesh crawl. Well did Michelet term them "the +insatiable nightmares of the sea." + +Yet, but for them, how would such great creatures as the sperm whale be +fed? Unable, from their bulk, to capture small fish except by accident, +and, by the absence of a sieve of baleen, precluded from subsisting upon +the tiny crustacea, which support the MYSTICETAE, the cachalots seem +to be confined for their diet to cuttle-fish, and, from their point of +view, the bigger the latter are the better. How big they may become in +the depths of the sea, no man knoweth; but it is unlikely that even the +vast specimens seen are full-sized, since they have only come to the +surface under abnormal conditions, like the one I have attempted to +describe, who had evidently been dragged up by his relentless foe. + +Creatures like these, who inhabit deep waters, and do not need to come +to the surface by the exigencies of their existence, necessarily present +many obstacles to accurate investigation of their structure and habits; +but, from the few specimens that have been obtained of late years, +fairly comprehensive details have been compiled, and may be studied in +various French and German works, of which the Natural History Museum at +South Kensington possesses copies. These, through the courtesy of the +authorities in charge, are easily accessible to students who wish to +prosecute the study of this wonderful branch of the great mollusca +family. + +When we commenced to cut in our whale next morning, the sea was fairly +alive with fish of innumerable kinds, while a vast host of sea-birds, as +usual, waited impatiently for the breaking-up of the huge carcass, which +they knew would afford them no end of a feast. An untoward accident, +which happened soon after the work was started, gave the waiting myriads +immense satisfaction, although the unfortunate second mate, whose slip +of the spade was responsible, came in for a hurricane of vituperation +from the enraged skipper. It was in detaching the case from the +head--always a work of difficulty, and requiring great precision of aim. +Just as Mr. Cruce made a powerful thrust with his keen tool, the vessel +rolled, and the blow, missing the score in which he was cutting, fell +upon the case instead, piercing its side. For a few minutes the result +was unnoticed amidst the wash of the ragged edges of the cut, but +presently a long streak of white, wax-like pieces floating astern, and +a tremendous commotion among the birds, told the story. The liquid +spermaceti was leaking rapidly from the case, turning solid as it got +into the cool water. Nothing could be done to stop the waste, which, +as it was a large whale, was not less than twenty barrels, or about two +tuns of pure spermaceti. An accident of this kind never failed to make +our skipper almost unbearable in his temper for some days afterwards; +and, to do him justice, he did not discriminate very carefully as to who +felt his resentment besides its immediate cause. + +Therefore we had all a rough time of it while his angry fit lasted, +which was a whole week, or until all was shipshape again. Meanwhile we +were edging gradually through the Malacca Straits and around the big +island of Borneo, never going very near the land on account of the great +and numerous dangers attendant upon coasting in those localities to any +but those continually engaged in such a business. + +Indeed, all navigation in those seas to sailing vessels is dangerous, +and requires the greatest care. Often we were obliged at a minute's +notice to let go the anchor, although out of sight of land, some rapid +current being found carrying us swiftly towards a shoal or race, +where we might come to grief. Yet there was no fuss or hurry, the same +leisurely old system was continued, and worked as well as ever. But it +was not apparent why we were threading the tortuous and difficult waters +of the Indian Archipelago. No whales of any kind were seen for at least +a month, although, from our leisurely mode of sailing, it was evident +that they were looked for. + +An occasional native craft came alongside, desirous of bartering fish, +which we did not want, being able to catch all we needed as readily +almost as they were. Fruit and vegetables we could not get at such +distances from land, for the small canoes that lie in wait for passing +ships do not of course venture far from home. + + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. OFF TO THE JAPAN GROUNDS + +Very tedious and trying was our passage northward, although every effort +was made by the skipper to expedite it. Nothing of advantage to our +cargo was seen for a long time, which, although apparently what was +to be expected, did not improve Captain Slocum's temper. But, to the +surprise of all, when we had arrived off the beautiful island of Hong +Kong, to which we approached closely, we "raised" a grand sperm whale. + +Many fishing-junks were in sight, busily plying their trade, and at any +other time we should have been much interested in the quaint and cunning +devices by which the patient, wily Chinaman succeeds so admirably as +a fisherman. Our own fishing, for the time being, absorbed all our +attention--the more, perhaps, that we had for so long been unable to do +anything in that line. After the usual preliminaries, we were successful +in getting fast to the great creature, who immediately showed fight. So +skilful and wary did he prove that Captain Slocum, growing impatient at +our manoeuvring with no result, himself took the field, arriving on +the scene with the air of one who comes to see and conquer without more +delay. He brought with him a weapon which I have not hitherto mentioned, +because none of the harpooners could be induced to use it, and +consequently it had not been much in evidence. Theoretically, it was as +ideal tool for such work, its chief drawback being its cumbrousness. It +was known as "Pierce's darting gun," being a combination of bomb-gun and +harpoon, capable of being darted at the whale like a plain harpoon. Its +construction was simple; indeed, the patent was a very old one. A tube +of brass, thickening towards the butt, at which was a square chamber +firmly welded to a socket for receiving the pole, formed the gun itself. +Within the chamber aforesaid a nipple protruded from the base of the +tube, and in line with it. The trigger was simply a flat bit of steel, +like a piece of clock spring, which was held down by the hooked end of a +steel rod long enough to stick out beyond the muzzle of the gun three or +four inches, and held in position by two flanges at the butt and muzzle +of the barrel. On the opposite side of the tube were two more flanges, +close together, into the holes of which was inserted the end of a +specially made harpoon, having an eye twisted in its shank through which +the whale line was spliced. The whole machine was fitted to a neat pole, +and strongly secured to it by means of a "gun warp," or short piece of +thin line, by which it could be hauled back into the boat after being +darted at a whale. To prepare this weapon for use, the barrel was +loaded with a charge of powder and a bomb similar to those used in the +shoulder-guns, the point of which just protruded from the muzzle. An +ordinary percussion cap was placed upon the nipple, and the trigger +cocked by placing the trigger-rod in position. The harpoon, with the +line attached, was firmly set into the socketed flanges prepared for it, +and the whole arrangement was then ready to be darted at the whale in +the usual way. + +Supposing the aim to be good and the force sufficient, the harpoon +would penetrate the blubber until the end of the trigger-rod was driven +backwards by striking the blubber, releasing the trigger and firing the +gun. Thus the whale would be harpooned and bomb-lanced at the same time, +and, supposing everything to work satisfactorily, very little more could +be needed to finish him. But the weapon was so cumbersome and awkward, +and the harpooners stood in such awe of it, that in the majority of +cases the whale was either missed altogether or the harpoon got such +slight hold that the gun did not go off, the result being generally +disastrous. + +In the present case, however, the "Pierce" gun was in the hands of a man +by no means nervous, and above criticism or blame in case of failure. So +when he sailed in to the attack, and delivered his "swashing blow," the +report of the gun was immediately heard, proving conclusively that a +successful stroke had been made. + +It had an instantaneous and astonishing effect. The sorely wounded +monster, with one tremendous expiration, rolled over and over swift as +thought towards his aggressor, literally burying the boat beneath his +vast bulk. Now, one would have thought surely, upon seeing this, that +none of that boat's crew would ever have been seen again. Nevertheless, +strange as it may appear, out of that seething lather of foam, all six +heads emerged again in an instant, but on the OTHER side of the great +creature. How any of them escaped instant violent death was, and from +the nature of the case must, ever remain, an unravelled mystery, for +the boat was crumbled into innumerable fragments, and the three hundred +fathoms of line, in a perfect maze of entanglement, appeared to be +wrapped about the writhing trunk of the whale. Happily, there were two +boats disengaged, so that they were able very promptly to rescue the +sufferers from their perilous position in the boiling vortex of foam by +which they were surrounded. Meanwhile, the remaining boat had an easy +task. The shot delivered by the captain had taken deadly effect, the +bomb having entered the creature's side low down, directly abaft the +pectoral fin. It must have exploded within the cavity of the bowels, +from its position, causing such extensive injuries as to make even that +vast animal's death but a matter of a few moments. Therefore, we did not +run any unnecessary risks, but hauled off to a safe distance and quietly +watched the death-throes. They were so brief, that in less than ten +minutes from the time of the accident we were busy securing the line +through the flukes of our prize. + +The vessel was an unusually long time working up to us, so slow, in +fact, that Mr Count remarked, critically, "Shouldn't wonder if th' ole +man ain't hurt; they're taking things so all-fired easy." By the time +she had reached us, we had a good few visitors around us from the +fishing fleet, who caused us no little anxiety, The Chinese have no +prejudices; they would just as soon steal a whale as a herring, if the +conveyance could be effected without, more trouble or risk to their own +yellow skins. If it involved the killing of a few foreign devils--well, +so much to the good. The ship, however, arrived before the fishermen had +decided upon any active steps, and we got our catch alongside without +any delay. The truth of Mr. Count's forecast was verified to the hilt, +for we found that the captain was so badly bruised about the body that +he was unable to move, while one of the hands, a Portuguese, was injured +internally, and seemed very bad indeed. Had any one told us that morning +that we should be sorry to see Captain Slocum with sore bones, we should +have scoffed at the notion, and some of us would probably have said that +we should like to have the opportunity of making him smart. But under +the present circumstances, with some hundreds of perfectly ruthless +wretches hovering around us, looking with longing eyes at the treasure +we had alongside, we could not help remembering the courage and resource +so often shown by the skipper, and wished with all our hearts that we +could have the benefit of them now. As soon as dinner was over, we all +"turned to" with a will to get the whale cut in. None of us required +to be told that to lay all night with that whale alongside would be +extremely unhealthy for us, great doubt existing as to whether any of +us would see morning dawn again. There was, too, just a possibility +that when the carcass, stripped of its blubber, was cut adrift, those +ravenous crowds would fasten upon it, and let us go in peace. + +All hands, therefore, worked like Trojans. There was no need to drive +us, nor was a single harsh word spoken. Nothing was heard but the almost +incessant clatter of the windlass pawls, abrupt monosyllabic orders, and +the occasional melancholy wail of a gannet overhead. No word had been +spoken on the subject among us, yet somehow we all realized that we were +working for a large stake no less than our lives. What! says somebody, +within a few miles of Hong Kong? Oh yes; and even within Hong Kong +harbour itself, if opportunity offers. Let any man go down the wharf at +Hong Kong after sunset, and hail a sampan from the hundreds there that +are waiting to be hired. Hardly will the summons have left his lips +before a white policeman will be at his side, note-book in hand, +inquiring his name and ship, and taking a note of the sampan's number, +with the time of his leaving the wharf. Nothing perfunctory about the +job either. Let but these precautions be omitted, and the chances that +the passenger (if he have aught of value about him) will ever arrive at +his destination are almost nil. + +So good was the progress made that by five p.m. we were busy at the +head, while the last few turns of the windlass were being taken to +complete the skinning of the body. With a long pent-up shout that last +piece was severed and swung inboard, as the huge mass of reeking flesh +floated slowly astern. As it drifted away we saw the patient watchers +who had been waiting converging upon it from all quarters, and our hopes +rose high. But there was no slackening of our efforts to get in the +head. By the time it was dark we managed to get the junk on board, and +by the most extraordinary efforts lifted the whole remainder of the +head high enough to make sail and stand off to sea. The wind was off the +land, the water smooth, and no swell on, so we took no damage from that +tremendous weight surging by our side, though, had the worst come to the +worst, we could have cut it adrift. + +When morning dawned we hove-to, the land being only dimly visible +astern, and finished taking on board our "head matter" without further +incident. The danger past, we were all well pleased that the captain was +below, for the work proceeded quite pleasantly under the genial rule of +the mate. Since leaving port we had not felt so comfortable, the work, +with all its disagreeables, seeming as nothing now that we could do it +without fear and trembling. Alas for poor Jemmy!--as we always persisted +in calling him from inability to pronounce his proper name--his case +was evidently hopeless. His fellows did their poor best to comfort his +fast-fleeting hours, one after another murmuring to him the prayers of +the Church, which, although they did not understand them, they evidently +believed most firmly to have some marvellous power to open the gates +of paradise and cleanse the sinner. Notwithstanding the grim fact +that their worship was almost pure superstition, it was far more in +accordance with the fitness of things for a dying man's surroundings +than such scenes as I have witnessed in the forecastles of merchant +ships when poor sailors lay a-dying. I remember well once, when I was +second officer of a large passenger ship, going in the forecastle as +she lay at anchor at St. Helena, to see a sick man. Half the crew were +drunk, and the beastly kennel in which they lived was in a thick fog of +tobacco-smoke and the stale stench of rum. Ribald songs, quarrelling, +and blasphemy made a veritable pandemonium of the place. I passed +quietly through it to the sick man's bunk, and found him--dead! He had +passed away in the midst of that, but the horror of it did not seem to +impress his bemused shipmates much. + +Here, at any rate, there was quiet and decorum, while all that could +be done for the poor sufferer (not much, from ignorance of how he was +injured) was done. He was released from his pain in the afternoon of the +second day after the accident, the end coming suddenly and peacefully. +The same evening, at sunset, the body, neatly sewn up in canvas, with a +big lump of sandstone secured to the feet, was brought on deck, laid +on a hatch at the gangway, and covered with the blue, star-spangled +American Jack. Then all hands were mustered in the waist, the ship's +bell was tolled, and the ensign run up halfway. + +The captain was still too ill to be moved, so the mate stepped forward +with a rusty old Common Prayer-book in his hands, whereon my vagrant +fancy immediately fastened in frantic endeavour to imagine how it came +to be there. The silence of death was over all. True, the man was but +a unit of no special note among us, but death had conferred upon him a +brevet rank, in virtue of which be dominated every thought. It seemed +strange to me that we who faced death so often and variously, until +natural fear had become deadened by custom, should, now that one of +our number lay a rapidly-corrupting husk before us, be so tremendously +impressed by the simple, inevitable fact. I suppose it was because +none of us were able to realize the immanence of Death until we saw +his handiwork. Mr. Count opened the book, fumbling nervously among the +unfamiliar leaves. Then he suddenly looked up, his weather-scarred face +glowing a dull brick-red, and said, in a low voice, "This thing's too +many fer me; kin any of ye do it? Ef not, I guess we'll hev ter take it +as read." There was no response for a moment; then I stepped forward, +reaching out my hand for the book. Its contents were familiar enough to +me, for in happy pre-arab days I had been a chorister in the old Lock +Chapel, Harrow Road, and had borne my part in the service so often that +I think even now I could repeat the greater part of it MEMORITER. Mr. +Count gave it me without a word, and, trembling like a leaf, I turned +to the "Burial Service," and began the majestic sentences, "I am the +Resurrection and the Life, saith the Lord." I did not know my own voice +as the wonderful words sounded clearly in the still air; but if ever a +small body of soul-hardened men FELT the power of God, it was then. At +the words, "We therefore commit his body to the deep," I paused, and, +the mate making a sign, two of the harpooners tilted the hatch, from +which the remains slid off into the unknown depths with a dull splash. +Several of the dead man's compatriots covered their faces, and murmured +prayers for the repose of his soul, while the tears trickled through +their horny fingers. But matters soon resumed their normal course; the +tension over, back came the strings of life into position again, to play +the same old tunes and discords once more. + +The captured whale made an addition to our cargo of one hundred and ten +barrels--a very fair haul indeed. The harpooners were disposed to regard +this capture as auspicious upon opening the North Pacific, where, in +spite of the time we had spent, and the fair luck we had experienced in +the Indian Ocean, we expected to make the chief portion of our cargo. + +Our next cruising-ground is known to whalemen as the "Coast of Japan" +ground, and has certainly proved in the past the most prolific fishery +of sperm whales in the whole world. I am inclined now to believe +that there are more and larger cachalots to be found in the Southern +Hemisphere, between the parallels of 33deg. and 50deg. South; but there +the drawback of heavy weather and mountainous seas severely handicaps +the fishermen. + +It is somewhat of a misnomer to call the Coast of Japan ground by that +name, since to be successful you should not sight Japan at all, but keep +out of range of the cold current that sweeps right across the Pacific, +skirting the Philippines, along the coasts of the Japanese islands +as far as the Kuriles, and then returns to the eastward again to the +southward of the Aleutian Archipelago. The greatest number of whales are +always found in the vicinity of the Bonin and Volcano groups of islands, +which lie in the eddy formed by the northward bend of the mighty current +before mentioned. This wonderful ground was first cruised by a London +whale-ship, the SYREN, in 1819, when the English branch of the sperm +whale-fishery was in its prime, and London skippers were proud of the +fact that one of their number, in the EMILIA, had thirty-one years +before first ventured around Cape Horn in pursuit of the cachalot. + +After the advent of the SYREN, the Bonins became the favourite +fishing-ground for both Americans and British, and for many years the +catch of oil taken from these teeming waters averaged four thousand +tuns annually. That the value of the fishery was maintained at so high a +level for over a quarter of a century was doubtless due to the fact that +there was a long, self-imposed close season, during which the whales +were quite unmolested. Nothing in the migratory habits of this whale, so +far as has ever been observed, would have prevented a profitable fishing +all the year round; but custom, stronger even than profit, ordained that +whale-ships should never stay too long upon one fishing-ground, but move +on farther until the usual round had been made, unless the vessel were +filled in the mean time. + +Of course, there are whales whose habits lead them at certain seasons, +for breeding purposes, to frequent various groups of islands, but the +cachalot seems to be quite impartial in his preferences; if he "uses" +around certain waters, he is just as likely to be found there in July as +January. + +The Bonins, too, form an ideal calling-place, from the whaling captain's +point of view. Peel Island, the principal one of the cluster, has +a perfect harbour in Port Lloyd, where a vessel can not only lie +in comfort, sheltered from almost every wind that blows, but where +provisions, wood, and water are plentiful. There is no inducement, or +indeed room, for desertion, and the place is healthy. It is colonized +by Japs from the kingdom so easily reached to the westward, and the busy +little people, after their manner, make a short stay very agreeable. + +Once clear of the southern end of Formosa we had quite a rapid run to +the Bonins, carrying a press of sail day and night, as the skipper was +anxious to arrive there on account of his recent injuries. He was still +very lame, and he feared that some damage might have been done to him +of which he was ignorant. Besides, it was easy to see that he did not +altogether like anybody else being in charge of his ship, no matter how +good they were. Such was the expedition we made that we arrived at +Port Lloyd twelve days after clearing up our last whale. Very beautiful +indeed the islands, appeared, with their bold, steep sides clad in +richest green, or, where no vegetation appeared, worn into a thousand +fantastic shapes by the sea, or the mountain torrents carving away the +lava of which they were all composed. For the whole of the islands were +volcanic, and Port Lloyd itself is nothing more than the crater of a +vast volcano, which in some tremendous convulsion of nature has sunk +from its former high estate low enough to become a haven for ships. + +I have said that it was a perfect harbour, but there is no doubt that +getting in or out requires plenty of nerve as well as seamanship. There +was so little room, and the eddying flows of wind under the high +land were so baffling, that at various times during our passage in it +appeared as if nothing could prevent us from getting stuck upon some of +the adjacent hungry-looking coral reefs. Nothing of the kind happened, +however, and we came comfortably to an anchor near three other +whale-ships which were already there. They were the DIEGO RAMIREZ, of +Nantucket; the CORONEL, of Providence, Rhode Island; and the GRAMPUS, +of New Bedford. These were the first whale-ships we had yet seen, and +it may be imagined how anxious we felt to meet men with whom we could +compare notes and exchange yarns. It might be, too, that we should get +some news of that world which, as far as we were concerned, might as +well have been at the other extremity of the solar system for the last +year, so completely isolated had we been. + +The sails were hardly fast before a boat from each of the ships was +alongside with their respective skippers on board. The extra exertion +necessary to pilot the ship in had knocked the old man up, in his +present weak state, and he had gone below for a short rest; so the three +visitors dived down into the stuffy cabin, all anxious to interview +the latest comer. Considerate always, Mr. Count allowed us to have the +remainder of the day to ourselves, so we set about entertaining our +company. It was no joke twelve of them coming upon us all at once, and +babel ensued for a short time. They knew the system too well to expect +refreshments, so we had not to apologize for having nothing to set +before them. They had not come, however, for meat and drink, but for +talk. And talk we did, sometimes altogether, sometimes rationally; but I +doubt whether any of us had ever enjoyed talking so much before. + + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. LIBERTY DAY--AND AFTER + +There is generally current among seamen a notion that all masters of +ships are bound by law to give their crews twenty-four hours' liberty +and a portion of their wages to spend every three months, if they are in +port. I have never heard any authority quoted for this, and do not know +what foundation there is for such a belief, although the practice is +usually adhered to in English ships. But American whale-ships apparently +know no law, except the will of their commanders, whose convenience is +always the first consideration. Thus, we had now been afloat for well +over a year, during which time, except for our foraging excursions at +the Cocos and Aldabra, we had certainly known no liberty for a whole +day. + +Our present port being one where it was impossible to desert without +the certainty of prompt recapture, with subsequent suffering altogether +disproportionate to the offence, we were told that one watch at a time +would be allowed their liberty for a day. So we of the port watch made +our simple preparations, received twenty-five cents each, and were +turned adrift on the beach to enjoy ourselves. We had our liberty, but +we didn't know what to do with it. There was a native town and a couple +of low groggeries kept by Chinamen, where some of my shipmates promptly +invested a portion of their wealth in some horrible liquor, the smell of +which was enough to make an ordinary individual sick. There was no place +apparently where one could get a meal, so that the prospect of our stay +ashore lasting a day did not seem very great. I was fortunate enough, +however, to foregather with a Scotchman who was a beach-comber, +and consequently "knew the ropes." I dare say he was an unmitigated +blackguard whenever he got the chance, but he was certainly on his best +behaviour with me. He took me into the country a bit to see the sights, +which were such as most of the Pacific islands afford. Wonderful indeed +were the fantastic rocks, twisted into innumerable grotesque shapes, +and, along the shores, hollowed out into caverns of all sizes, some +large enough to shelter an army. He was quite familiar with the natives, +understanding enough of their queer lingo to get along. By his friendly +aid we got some food--yams, and fish cooked in native fashion, i.e. in +heated holes in the ground, for which the friendly Kanakas would take no +payment, although they looked murderous enough to be cannibals. It does +not do to go by looks always. + +Well, after a long ramble, the Scotchman and I laid our weary bodies +down in the shade of a big rock, and had a grand sleep, waking up again +a little before sunset. We hastened down to the beach off the town, +where all my watchmates were sitting in a row, like lost sheep, waiting +to be taken on board again. They had had enough of liberty; indeed, such +liberty as that was hardly worth having. It seems hardly credible, but +we were actually glad to get on board again, it was so miserable ashore, +The natives were most unsociable at the port, and we could not make +ourselves understood, so there was not much fun to be had. Even those +who were inclined to drink had too little for a spree, which I was +not sorry for, since doubtless a very unpleasant reception would have +awaited them had they come on board drunk. + +Next day the starboard watch went on liberty, while we who had received +our share were told off to spend the day wooding and watering. In this +most pleasant of occupations (when the weather is fine) I passed a much +more satisfactory time than when wandering about with no objective, an +empty pocket, and a hungry belly. No foremast hand has ever enjoyed his +opportunities of making the acquaintance of his various visiting places +more than I have; but the circumstances attendant upon one's leave must +be a little favourable, or I would much rather stay aboard and fish. +Our task was over for the day, a goodly store of wood and casks of water +having been shipped. We were sitting down to supper, when, in answer to +a hail from the beach, we were ordered to fetch the liberty men. When +we got to them, there was a pretty how-d'ye-do. All of them were more or +less drunk, some exceedingly quarrelsome. Now, Mistah Jones was steering +our boat, looking as little like a man to take sauce from a drunken +sailor as you could imagine. Most of the transformed crowd ya-hooing +on the beach had felt the weight of his shoulder-of-mutton fist, yet so +utterly had prudence forsaken them that, before we came near them, they +were abusing him through all the varied gamut of filthy language they +possessed. My democratic sentiments are deeply seated, but I do believe +in authority, and respect for it being rigidly enforced, so this +uncalled-for scene upset me, making me feel anxious that the gibbering +fools might get a lesson. They got one. + +Goliath stood like a tower, his eyes alone betraying the fierce anger +boiling within. When we touched the beach, his voice was mild end gentle +as a child's, his movements calm and deliberate. As soon as we had +beached the boat he stepped ashore, and in two strides was in the middle +of the snarling group. Further parley ceased at once. Snatching the +loudest of them by the breast of his shirt with his right hand, another +one by the collar with his left, he flung himself backwards towards the +boat, knocking the interveners right and left. But a protruding fragment +of rock caught his heel, bringing him with his captives to the ground +in a writhing mass. The rest, maddened beyond restraint of fear, +flung themselves upon the prostrate man, the glimmer of more than one +knife-blade appearing. Two of us from the boat--one with the tiller, the +other brandishing a paddle--rushed to the rescue; but before we arrived +the giant had heaved off his assailants, and, with no other weapons than +his bare hands, was doing terrific execution among them. Not knowing, +I suppose, whether we were friendly to him or not, he shouted to us to +keep away, nor dare to interfere. There was no need. Disregarding such +trifles as a few superficial cuts--not feeling them perhaps--he so +unmercifully mauled that crowd that they howled again for mercy. The +battle was brief and bloody. Before hostilities had lasted five minutes, +six of the aggressors were stretched insensible; the rest, comprising +as many more, were pleading for mercy, completely sober. Such prowess on +the part of one man against twelve seems hardly credible; but it must be +remembered that Goliath fought, with all the moral force of the ship's +officers behind him, against a disorganized crowd without backbone, who +would never have dared to face him but for the temporary mania induced +by the stuff they had drunk. It was a conflict between a lion and a +troop of jackals, whereof the issue was never in doubt as long as lethal +weapons were wanting. + +Standing erect among the cowering creatures, the great negro looked +every inch a mediaeval hero. In a stern voice he bade his subjugated +enemies to get into the boat, assisting those to do so who were too +badly hurt to rise. Then we shoved off for the ship--a sorrowful gang +indeed. + +As I bent to my oar, I felt very sorry for what had happened. Here +were half the crew guilty of an act of violence upon an officer, which, +according to the severe code under which we lived, merited punishment as +painful as could be inflicted, and lasting for the rest of the voyage. +Whatever form that punishment might take, those of us who were innocent +would be almost equal sufferers with the others, because discrimination +in the treatment between watch and watch is always difficult, and in our +case it was certain that it would not be attempted. Except as regarded +physical violence, we might all expect to share alike. Undoubtedly +things looked very unpleasant. My gloomy cogitations were abruptly +terminated by the order to "unrow"--we were alongside. Somehow or other +all hands managed to scramble on board, and assist in hoisting the boat +up. + +As soon as she was secured we slunk away forward, but we had hardly got +below before a tremendous summons from Goliath brought us all aft again +at the double quick. Most of the fracas had been witnessed from the +ship, so that but a minute or two was needed to explain how or why it +begun. Directly that explanation had been supplied by Mistah Jones, the +order was issued for the culprits to appear. + +I have before noticed how little love was lost between the skipper and +his officers, Goliath having even once gone so far as to give me a +very emphatic opinion of his about the "old man" of a most unflattering +nature. And had such a state of things existed on board an English ship, +the crew would simply have taken charge, for they would have seen the +junior officers flouted, snubbed, and jeered at; and, of course, what +they saw the captain do, they would not be slow to improve on. Many a +promising young officer's career has been blighted in this way by the +feminine spite of a foolish man unable to see that if the captain shows +no respect to his officers, neither will the crew, nor obedience either. + +But in an American ship, so long as an officer remains an officer, he +must be treated as such by every man, under pain of prompt punishment. +Yankee skippers have far too much NOUS to allow their hands to grow +saucy in consequence of division among the after-guard. So now a sort +of court-martial was held upon the unfortunates who had dared to attack +Goliath, at which that sable hero might have been the apple of Captain +Slocum's eye, so solicitous was he of Mistah Jones' honour and the +reparation to be made. + +This sort of thing was right in his line. Naturally cruel, he seemed to +thoroughly enjoy himself in the prospect of making human beings twist +and writhe in pain. Nor would he be baulked of a jot of his pleasure. + +Goliath approached him, and muttered a few words, meant, I felt sure, to +appease him by letting him know how much they had suffered at his strong +hands; but he turned upon the negro with a savage curse, bidding him be +silent. Then every one of the culprits was stripped, and secured to the +lash-rail by the wrists; scourges were made of cotton fish-line, knotted +at intervals, and secured to a stout handle; the harpooners were told +off as executioners, and the flogging began. Perhaps it was necessary +for the maintenance of discipline--certainly it was trivial compared +with the practice, till recently, in our own army and navy; but I am +glad to say that, compelled to witness it, I felt quite sick--physically +sick--trembling so in every limb that my legs would not support me. It +was not fear, for I had nothing to fear had I been ever such a coward. +Whatever it was, I am not sorry either to have felt it or to own it, +even while I fully admit that for some forms of wickedness nothing but +the lash seems adequate punishment. + +Some of the victims fainted, not being in the best condition at the +outset for undergoing so severe a trial; but all were treated alike, +buckets of salt water being flung over them. This drastic reviver, +while adding to their pain, brought them all into a state of sufficient +activity to get forward when they were released. Smarting and degraded, +all their temporary bravado effectually banished, they were indeed +pitiable objects, their deplorable state all the harder to bear from its +contrast to our recent pleasure when we entertained the visiting crews. + +Having completed our quantum of wood, water, and fresh provisions for +the officers, we got under way again for the fishing grounds. I did +not see how we could hope for a successful season, knowing the utterly +despondent state of the crew, which even affected the officers, who, not +so callous or cruel as the skipper, seemed to be getting rather tired +of the constant drive and kick, now the normal condition of affairs. +But the skipper's vigilance was great. Whether he noted any sign of +slackness or indifference on the part of his coadjutors or not, of +course I cannot say, but he certainly seemed to put more vigour into his +attentions than had been his wont, and so kept everybody up to the mark. + +Hitherto we had always had our fishing to ourselves; we were now to +see something of the ways of other men employed in the same manner. For +though the general idea or plan of campaign against the whales is the +same in all American whalers, every ship has some individual peculiarity +of tactics, which, needless to say, are always far superior to those of +any other ship. When we commenced our cruise on this new ground, +there were seven whalers in sight, all quite as keen on the chase as +ourselves, so that I anticipated considerable sport of the liveliest +kind should we "raise" whales with such a fleet close at hand. + +But for a whole week we saw nothing but a grampus or so, a few loitering +finbacks, and an occasional lean humpback bull certainly not worth +chasing. On the seventh afternoon, however, I was in the main +crow's-nest with the chief, when I noticed a ship to windward of us +alter her course, keeping away three or four points on an angle that +would presently bring her across our bows a good way ahead. I was +getting pretty well versed in the tricks of the trade now, so I kept +mum, but strained my eyes in the direction for which the other ship was +steering. The chief was looking astern at some finbacks, the look-out +men forward were both staring to leeward, thus for a minute or so I +had a small arc of the horizon to myself. The time was short, but it +sufficed, and for the first time that voyage I had the privilege of +"raising" a sperm whale. My voice quivered with excitement as I uttered +the war-whoop, "Ah blo-o-o-o-w!" Round spun the mate on his heel, +while the hands clustered like bees roused from their hive. "Where +away--where?" gasped the mate. And I pointed to a spot about half a +point on the lee bow, at the same time calling his attention to the +fact that the stranger to windward was keeping away. In answer to the +skipper's hurried queries from below, Mr. Count gave him the general +outline of affairs, to which he replied by crowding every stitch of +canvas on the vessel that was available. + +The spout I had seen was a good ten miles off, and, for the present, +seemed to belong to a "lone" whale, as it was the only one visible. +There was a good breeze blowing, as much, in fact, as we could carry all +sail to, the old barky making a tremendous commotion as she blundered +along under the unusual press of canvas. In the excitement of the race +all our woes were forgotten; we only thought of the possibility of the +ship getting there first. We drew gradually nearer to the stranger, who, +like us, was carrying all the sail he had got, but, being able to go a +point or two free, was outsailing us. + +It was anybody's race as yet, though, when we heard the skipper's hail, +"'Way down from aloft!" as he came up to take our place, The whale had +sounded, apparently heading to leeward, so that the weather-gage held by +our rival was not much advantage to him now. We ran on for another two +miles, then shortened sail, and stood by to lower away the moment he +should re-appear, Meanwhile another ship was working up from to leeward, +having evidently noted our movements, or else, like the albatross, +"smelt whale," no great distance to windward of him. Waiting for that +whale to rise was one of the most exciting experiences we had gone +through as yet, with two other ships so near. Everybody's nerves seemed +strung up to concert pitch, and it was quite a relief when from half +a dozen throats at once burst the cry, "There she white-waters! Ah +blo-o-o-o-w!" Not a mile away, dead to leeward of us, quietly beating +the water with the flat of his flukes, as if there was no such thing in +the watery world as a whale-ship. Splash! almost simultaneously went the +four boats. Out we shot from the ship, all on our mettle; for was not +the skipper's eye upon us from his lofty eyrie, as well as the crew of +the other ship, now not more than a mile away! We seemed a terrible time +getting the sails up, but the officers dared not risk our willingness to +pull while they could be independent of us. + +By the time we were fairly off, the other ship's boats were coming like +the wind, so that eight boats were now converging upon the unconscious +monster. We fairly flew over the short, choppy sea, getting drenched +with the flying spray, but looking out far more keenly at the other +boats than at the whale. Up we came to him, Mr. Count's boat to the +left, the other mate's boat to the right. Almost at the same moment the +irons flew from the hands of the rival harpooners; but while ours was +buried to the hitches in the whale's side, the other man's just ploughed +up the skin on the animal's back, as it passed over him and pierced our +boat close behind the harpooner's leg. Not seeing what had happened to +his iron, or knowing that we were fast, the other harpooner promptly +hurled his second iron, which struck solidly. It was a very pretty +tangle, but our position was rather bad. The whale between us was +tearing the bowels of the deep up in his rage and fear; we were +struggling frantically to get our sail down; and at any moment that +wretched iron through our upper strake might tear a plank out of us. +Our chief, foaming at the mouth with rage and excitement, was screeching +inarticulate blasphemy at the other mate, who, not knowing what was the +matter, was yelling back all his copious vocabulary of abuse. I felt +very glad the whale was between us, or there would surely have been +murder done. At last, out drops the iron, leaving a jagged hole you +could put your arm through. Wasn't Mr. Count mad? I really thought he +would split with rage, for it was impossible for us to go on with that +hole in our bilge. The second mate came alongside and took our line as +the whale was just commencing to sound, thus setting us free. We made at +once for the other ship's "fast" boat, and the compliments that had +gone before were just casual conversation to what filled the air with +dislocated language now. Presently both the champions cooled down a bit +from want of breath, and we got our case stated. It was received with +a yell of derision from the other side as a splendid effort of lying on +our part; because the first ship fast claims the whale, and such a prize +as this one we were quarrelling about was not to be tamely yielded. + +However, as reason asserted her sway over Mr. Count, he quieted down, +knowing full well that the state of the line belonging to his rival +would reveal the truth when the whale rose again. Therefore we returned +to the ship, leaving our three boats busy waiting the whale's pleasure +to rise again. When the skipper heard what had happened, he had his own +boat manned, proceeding himself to the battle-field in expectation of +complications presently. By the time he arrived upon the scene there +were two more boats lying by, which had come up from the third ship, +mentioned as working up from to leeward. "Pretty fine ground this's got +ter be!" growled the old man. "Caint strike whale 'thout bein' crowded +eout uv yer own propputty by a gang bunco steerers like this. Shall hev +ter quit it, en keep a pawnshop." + +And still the whale kept going steadily down, down, down. Already he was +on the second boat's lines, and taking them out faster than ever. Had +we been alone, this persistence on his part, though annoying, would +not have mattered much; but, with so many others in company, the +possibilities of complication, should we need to slip our end, were +numerous. The ship kept near, and Mr. Count, seeing how matters were +going, had hastily patched his boat, returning at once with another tub +of line. He was but just in time to bend on, when to our great delight +we saw the end slip from our rival's boat. This in no wise terminated +his lien on the whale, supposing he could prove that he struck first, +but it got him out of the way for the time. + +Meanwhile we were running line faster than ever. There was an enormous +length attached to the animal now--some twelve thousand feet--the +weight of which was very great, to say nothing of the many "drogues" or +"stopwaters" attached to it at intervals. Judge, then, of my surprise +when a shout of "Blo-o-o-w!" called my attention to the whale +himself just breaking water about half a mile away. It was an awkward +predicament; for if we let go our end, the others would be on the whale +immediately; if we held on, we should certainly be dragged below in a +twinkling; and our disengaged boats could do nothing, for they had no +line. But the difficulty soon settled itself. Out ran our end, leaving +us bare of line as pleasure skiffs. The newcomer, who had been prowling +near, keeping a close watch upon us, saw our boat jump up when released +from the weight. Off he flew like an arrow to the labouring leviathan, +now a "free fish," except for such claims as the two first-comers had +upon it, which claims are legally assessed, where no dispute arises. In +its disabled condition, dragging so enormous a weight of line, it was +but a few minutes before the fresh boat was fast, while we looked on +helplessly, boiling with impotent rage. All that we could now hope +for was the salvage of some of our line, a mile and a half of which, +inextricably mixed up with about the same length of our rival's, was +towing astern of the fast-expiring cachalot. + +So great had been the strain upon that hardly-used animal that he did +not go into his usual "flurry," but calmly expired without the faintest +struggle. In the mean time two of our boats had been sent on board again +to work the ship, while the skipper proceeded to try his luck in the +recovery of his gear. On arriving at the dead whale, however, we found +that he had rolled over and over beneath the water so many times that +the line was fairly frapped round him, and the present possessors were +in no mood to allow us the privilege of unrolling it. + +During the conversation we had drawn very near the carcass, so near, in +fact, that one hand was holding the boat alongside the whale's "small" +by a bight of the line. I suppose the skipper's eagle eye must have +caught sight of the trailing part of the line streaming beneath, for +suddenly he plunged overboard, reappearing almost immediately with the +line in his hand. He scrambled into the boat with it, cutting it from +the whale at once, and starting his boat's crew hauling in. + +Then there was a hubbub again. The captain of the NARRAGANSETT, our +first rival, protested vigorously against our monopoly of the line; but +in grim silence our skipper kept on, taking no notice of him, while we +steadily hauled. Unless he of the NARRAGANSETT choose to fight for +what he considered his rights, there was no help for him. And there was +something in our old man's appearance eminently calculated to discourage +aggression of any kind. + +At last, disgusted apparently with the hopeless turn affairs had taken, +the NARRAGANSETT's boats drew off, and returned on board their ship. +Two of our boats had by this time accumulated a mountainous coil of line +each, with which we returned to our own vessel, leaving the skipper to +visit the present holder of the whale, the skipper of the JOHN HAMPDEN. + +What arrangements they made, or how they settled the NARRAGANSETT's +claim between them, I never knew, but I dare say there was a costly +law-suit about it in New Bedford years after. + +This was not very encouraging for a start, nor did the next week see us +do any better. Several times we saw other ships with whales alongside, +but we got no show at all. Now, I had hoped a great deal from our cruise +on these grounds, because I had heard whispers of a visit to the icy Sea +of Okhotsk, and the prospect was to me a horrible one. I never did take +any stock in Arctic work. But if we made a good season on the Japan +grounds, we should not go north, but gradually work down the Pacific +again, on the other side, cruising as we went. + +Day after day went by without any fresh capture or even sight of fish, +until I began to believe that the stories I had heard of the wonderful +fecundity of the Coast of Japan waters were fables without foundation, +in fact. Had I known what sort of fishing our next bout would be, I +should not have been so eager to sight whales again. If this be not a +platitude of the worst kind, I don't know the meaning of the word; but, +after all, platitudes have their uses, especially when you want to state +a fact baldly. + + + + + +CHAPTER XV. WHICH COMES UNCOMFORTABLY NEAR BEING THE LAST + +All unversed as I am in the finer shades of literary craftsmanship, +there is great uncertainty in my mind whether it is good or bad "art" to +anticipate your next chapter by foreshadowing its contents; but whether +good or bad art, the remembrance of my miseries on the eventful occasion +I wish to describe was so strong upon me as I wrote the last few lines +of the previous chapter that I just had to let those few words leak out. + +Through all the vicissitudes of this strange voyage I had hitherto felt +pretty safe, and as the last thing a man anticipates (if his digestion +is all right) is the possibility of coming to grief himself while fully +prepared to see everybody else go under, so I had got to think that +whoever got killed I was not to be--a very pleasing sentiment, and one +that carries a man far, enabling him to face dangers with a light heart +which otherwise would make a nerveless animal of him. + +In this optimistic mood, then, I gaily flung myself into my place in the +mate's boat one morning, as we were departing in chase of a magnificent +cachalot that had been raised just after breakfast. There were no other +vessels in sight--much to our satisfaction--the wind was light, with a +cloudless sky, and the whale was dead to leeward of us. We sped along +at a good rate towards our prospective victim, who was, in his leisurely +enjoyment of life, calmly lolling on the surface, occasionally lifting +his enormous tail out of water and letting it fall flat upon the surface +with a boom audible for miles. + +We were as usual, first boat; but, much to the mate's annoyance, when we +were a short half-mile from the whale, our main-sheet parted. It became +immediately necessary to roll the sail up, lest its flapping should +alarm the watchful monster, and this delayed us sufficiently to allow +the other boats to shoot ahead of us. Thus the second mate got fast some +seconds before we arrived on the scene, seeing which we furled sail, +unshipped the mast, and went in on him with the oars only. At first the +proceedings were quite of the usual character, our chief wielding his +lance in most brilliant fashion, while not being fast to the animal +allowed us much greater freedom in our evolutions; but that fatal habit +of the mate's--of allowing his boat to take care of herself so long as +he was getting in some good home-thrusts--once more asserted itself. +Although the whale was exceedingly vigorous, churning the sea into +yeasty foam over an enormous area, there we wallowed close to him, right +in the middle of the turmoil, actually courting disaster. + +He had just settled down for a moment, when, glancing over the gunwale, +I saw his tail, like a vast shadow, sweeping away from us towards the +second mate, who was laying off the other side of him. Before I had time +to think, the mighty mass of gristle leapt into the sunshine, curved +back from us like a huge bow. Then with a roar it came at us, released +from its tension of Heaven knows how many tons. Full on the broadside +it struck us, sending every soul but me flying out of the wreckage as if +fired from catapults. I did not go because my foot was jammed somehow in +the well of the boat, but the wrench nearly pulled my thigh-bone out of +its socket. I had hardly released my foot, when, towering above me, +came the colossal head of the great creature, as he ploughed through the +bundle of debris that had just been a boat. There was an appalling roar +of water in my ears, and darkness that might be felt all around. Yet, +in the midst of it all, one thought predominated as clearly as if I had +been turning it over in my mind in the quiet of my bunk aboard--"What +if he should swallow me?" Nor to this day can I understand how I escaped +the portals of his gullet, which of course gaped wide as a church door. +But the agony of holding my breath soon overpowered every other feeling +and thought, till just as something was going to snap inside my head I +rose to the surface. I was surrounded by a welter of bloody froth, which +made it impossible for me to see; but oh, the air was sweet! + +I struck out blindly, instinctively, although I could feel so strong an +eddy that voluntary progress was out of the question. My hand touched +and clung to a rope, which immediately towed me in some direction--I +neither knew nor cared whither. Soon the motion ceased, and, with a +seaman's instinct, I began to haul myself along by the rope I grasped, +although no definite idea was in my mind as to where it was attached. +Presently I came butt up against something solid, the feel of which +gathered all my scattered wits into a compact knub of dread. It was the +whale! "Any port in a storm," I murmured, beginning to haul away again +on my friendly line. By dint of hard work I pulled myself right up the +sloping, slippery bank of blubber, until I reached the iron, which, +as luck would have it, was planted in that side of the carcass now +uppermost. Carcass I said--well, certainly I had no idea of there being +any life remaining within the vast mass beneath me, yet I had +hardly time to take a couple of turns round myself with the rope (or +whale-line, as I had proved it to be), when I felt the great animal +quiver all over, and begin to forge ahead. I was now composed enough to +remember that help could not be far away, and that my rescue, providing +that I could keep above water, was but a question of a few minutes. But +I was hardly prepared for the whale's next move. Being very near his +end, the boat, or boats, had drawn off a bit, I supposed, for I could +see nothing of them. Then I remembered the flurry. Almost at the same +moment it began; and there was I, who with fearful admiration had so +often watched the titanic convulsions of a dying cachalot, actually +involved in them. The turns were off my body, but I was able to twist a +couple of turns round my arms, which, in case of his sounding, I could +readily let go. + +Then all was lost in roar and rush, as of the heart of some mighty +cataract, during which I was sometimes above, sometimes beneath, the +water, but always clinging with every ounce of energy still left, to the +line. Now, one thought was uppermost--"What if he should breach?" I had +seen them do so when in flurry, leaping full twenty feet in the air. +Then I prayed. + +Quickly as all the preceding changes had passed came perfect peace. +There I lay, still alive, but so weak that, although I could feel the +turns slipping off my arms, and knew that I should slide off the slope +of the whale's side into the sea if they did, I could make no effort +to secure myself. Everything then passed away from me, just as if I had +gone to sleep. + +I do not at all understand how I kept my position, nor how long, but +I awoke to the blessed sound of voices, and saw the second mate's +boat alongside, Very gently and tenderly they lifted me into the boat, +although I could hardly help screaming with agony when they touched me, +so bruised and broken up did I feel. My arms must have been nearly torn +from their sockets, for the strands of the whale-line had cut deep +into their flesh with the strain upon it, while my thigh was swollen +enormously from the blow I received at the onset. Mr. Cruce was the most +surprised man I think I ever saw. For full ten minutes he stared at me +with wide-open eyes. When at last he spoke, it was with difficulty, as +if wanting words to express his astonishment. At last he blurted out, +"Whar you bin all de time, ennyhaow? 'Cawse ef you bin hangin' on to dat +ar wale ev'sence you boat smash, w'y de debbil you hain't all ter bits, +hey?" I smiled feebly, but was too weak to talk, and presently went off +again into a dead faint. + +When I recovered, I was snug in my bunk aboard, but aching in every +joint, and as sore as if I had been pounded with a club until I was +bruised all over. During the day Mr. Count was kind enough to pay me a +visit. With his usual luck, he had escaped without the slightest injury; +neither was any other member of the boat's crew the worse for the +ducking but myself. He told me that the whale was one of the largest +he had ever seen, and as fat as butter. The boat was an entire loss, so +completely smashed to pieces that nothing of her or her gear had been +recovered. After spending about a quarter of an hour with me, he left me +considerably cheered up, promising to look after me in the way of food, +and also to send me some books. He told me that I need not worry +myself about my inability to be at work, because the old man was not +unfavourably disposed towards me, which piece of news gave me a great +deal of comfort. + +When my poor, weary shipmates came below from their heavy toil of +cutting in, they were almost inclined to be envious of my comfort--small +blame to them--though I would gladly have taken my place among them +again, could I have got rid of my hurts. But I was condemned to lie +there for nearly three weeks before I was able to get about once more. +In my sleep I would undergo the horrible anticipation of sliding down +that awful, cavernous mouth over again, often waking with a shriek and +drenched with sweat. + +While I lay there, three whales were caught, all small cows, and I was +informed that the skipper was getting quite disgusted with the luck. At +last I managed to get on deck, quite a different-looking man to when I +went below, and feeling about ten years older. I found the same sullen +quiet reigning that I had noticed several times before when we were +unfortunate. I fancied that the skipper looked more morose and savage +than ever, though of me, to my great relief, he took not the slightest +notice. + +The third day after my return to duty we sighted whales again. We +lowered three boats as promptly as usual; but when within about half a +mile of the "pod" some slight noise in one of the boats gallied them, +and away they went in the wind's eye, it blowing a stiffish breeze at +the time, It was from the first evidently a hopeless task to chase them, +but we persevered until recalled to the ship, dead beat with fatigue. +I was not sorry, for my recent adventure seemed to have made quite a +coward of me, so much so that an unpleasant gnawing at the pit of my +stomach as we neared them almost made me sick. I earnestly hoped that +so inconvenient a feeling would speedily leave me, or I should be but a +poor creature in a boat. + +In passing, I would like to refer to the wonderful way in which these +whales realize at a great distance, if the slightest sound be made, the +presence of danger. I do not use the word "hear" because so abnormally +small are their organs of hearing, the external opening being quite +difficult to find, that I do not believe they can hear at all well. But +I firmly believe they possess another sense by means of which they are +able to detect any unusual vibration of the waves of either air or sea +at a far greater distance than it would be possible for them to hear, +Whatever this power may be which they possess, all whalemen are well +acquainted with their exercise of it, and always take most elaborate +precautions to render their approach to a whale noiseless. + +Our extraordinary want of success at last so annoyed the skipper that +he determined to quit the ground and go north. The near approach of +the open season in those regions probably hastened his decision, but I +learned from Goliath that he had always been known as a most fortunate +man among the "bowheads," as the great MYSTICETAE of that part of +the Arctic seas are called by the Americans. Not that there is any +difference, as far as I have been able to ascertain, between them +and the "right" whale of the Greenland seas, but from some caprice of +nomenclature for which there is no accounting. + +So in leisurely fashion we worked north, keeping, of course, a bright +look-out all the way for straggling cachalots, but not seeing any. From +scraps of information that in some mysterious fashion leaked out, we +learned that we were bound to the Okhotsk Sea, it being no part of +the skipper's intentions to go prowling around Behrings Sea, where he +believed the whales to be few and far between. + +It may be imagined that we of the crew were not at all pleased with +this intelligence, our life being, we considered, sufficiently miserable +without the addition of extreme cold, for we did not realize that in the +Arctic regions during summer the cold is by no means unbearable, and our +imagination pictured a horrible waste of perpetual ice and snow, in the +midst of which we should be compelled to freeze while dodging whales +through the crevices of the floes. But whether our pictures of the +prospects that awaited us were caricatures or no made not the slightest +difference. "Growl you may, but go you must" is an old sea-jingle of the +truest ring; but, while our going was inevitable, growling was a luxury +none of us dare indulge in. + +We had by no means a bad passage to the Kuriles, which form a natural +barrier enclosing the immense area of the Okhotsk Sea from the +vast stretch of the Pacific. Around this great chain of islands the +navigation is exceedingly difficult, and dangerous as well, from the +ever-varying currents as from the frequent fogs and sudden storms. But +these impediments to swift and safe navigation are made light of by +the whalemen, who, as I feel never weary of remarking, are the finest +navigators in the world where speed is not the first consideration. + +The most peculiar features of these inhospitable shores to a seaman are +the vast fields of seaweed surrounding them all, which certainly helps +to keep the sea down during gales, but renders navigation most difficult +on account of its concealment of hidden dangers. These islands are aptly +named, the word "Kurile" being Kamschatkan for smoke; and whether it be +regarded as given in consequence of the numerous volcanoes which pour +their fumes into the air, or the all-prevailing fog fostered by the Kuro +Siwo, or Japanese counterpart of the Gulf stream, the designation is +equally appropriate. + +We entered the Okhotsk Sea by the Nadeshda Channel, so-named after +Admiral Krusenstern's ship, which was the first civilized vessel that +passed through its turbulent waters. It separates the islands Rashau and +Mantaua by about twenty miles, yet so conflicting and violent are the +currents which eddy and swirl in all parts of it, that without a +steady, strong, fair wind it is most dangerous to a sailing vessel. +Thenceforward the navigation was free from difficulty, or at least none +that we could recognize as such, so we gave all our attention to the +business which brought us there. + +Scarcely any change was needed in our equipment, except the substitution +of longer harpoons for those we had been using, and the putting away +of the bomb-guns. These changes were made because the blubber of the +bowhead is so thick that ordinary harpoons will not penetrate beyond it +to the muscle, which, unless they do, renders them liable to draw, upon +a heavy strain. As for the bombs, Yankees hold the mysticetae in such +supreme contempt that none of them would dream of wasting so expensive +a weapon as a bomb upon them. I was given to understand by my constant +crony, Mistah Jones, that there was no more trouble in killing a bowhead +than in slaughtering a sheep; and that while it was quite true that +accidents DID occur, they were entirely due to the carelessness or +clumsiness of the whalemen, and not in any way traceable to a desire on +the victim's part to do any one harm. + +The sea was little encumbered with ice, it being now late in June, so +that our progress was not at all impeded by the few soft, brashy floes +that we encountered, none of them hard enough to do a ship's hull any +damage. In most places the sea was sufficiently shallow to permit of our +anchoring. For this purpose we used a large kedge, with stout hawser for +cable, never furling all the sails in case of a strong breeze suddenly +springing up, which would cause us to drag. This anchoring was very +comfortable. Besides allowing us to get much more rest than when on +other cruising-grounds, we were able to catch enormous quantities +of fish, mostly salmon, of which there were no less than fourteen +varieties. So plentiful were these splendid fish that we got quite +critical in our appreciation of them, very soon finding that one kind, +known as the "nerker," was far better flavoured than any of the others. +But as the daintiest food palls the quickest, it was not long before we +got tired of salmon, and wished most heartily for beef. + +Much fun has been made of the discontent of sailors. With food which is +considered a luxury ashore, and wonder expressed that if, as we assert, +the ordinary dietary of the seaman be so bad, he should be so ready to +rebel when fed with delicacies. But in justice to the sailor, it ought +to be remembered that the daintiest food may be rendered disgusting by +bad cookery, such as is the rule on board merchant ships. "God sends +meat, but the devil sends cooks" is a proverb which originated on board +ship, and no one who has ever served any time in a ship's forecastle +would deny that it is abundantly justified. Besides which, even good +food well cooked of one kind only, served many times in succession, +becomes very trying, only the plainest foods, such as bread, rice, +potatoes, etc., retaining their command of the appetite continually. + +I remember once, when upon the Coromandel coast in a big Greenock ship, +we found fowls very cheap. At Bimliapatam the captain bought two or +three hundred, which, as we had no coops, were turned loose on deck. We +had also at the same time prowling about the decks three goats, twenty +pigs, and two big dogs. + +Consequently the state of the ship was filthy, nor could all our efforts +keep her clean. This farmyard condition of things was permitted to +continue for about a week, when the officers got so tired of it, and +the captain so annoyed at the frequent loss of fowls by their flying +overboard, that the edict went forth to feed the foremast hands on +poultry till further orders. Great was our delight at the news. Fowl for +dinner represented to our imagination almost the apex of high living, +only indulged in by such pampered children of fortune as the officers of +ships or well-to-do people ashore. + +When dinner-time arrived, we boys made haste to the galley with watering +mouths, joyfully anticipating that rare delight of the sailor--a good +"feed." The cook uncovered his coppers, plunged his tormentors therein, +and produced such a succession of ugly corpses of fowls as I had never +seen before. To each man a whole one was allotted, and we bore the +steaming hecatomb into the forecastle. The boisterous merriment became +hushed at our approach, and faces grew lengthy when the unwholesome +aspect of the "treat" was revealed. Each man secured his bird, and +commenced operations. But oh, the disappointment, and the bad words! +What little flesh there was upon the framework of those unhappy fowls +was like leather itself, and utterly flavourless. It could not well +have been otherwise. The feathers had been simply scalded off, the heads +chopped off, and bodies split open to facilitate drawing (I am sure I +wonder the cook took the trouble to do that much), and thus prepared +they were cast into a cauldron of boiling salt water. There, with the +water fiercely bubbling, they were kept for an hour and a half, then +pitchforked out into the mess kid and set before us. We simply could not +eat them; no one but a Noumean Kanaka could, for his teeth are equal to +husking a cocoa-nut, or chopping off a piece of sugar-cane as thick as +your wrist. + +After much heated discussion, it was unanimously resolved to protest at +once against the substitution of such a fraud as this poultry for our +legitimate rations of "salt horse." so, bearing the DISJECTA MEMBRA of +our meal, the whole crowd marched aft, and requested an interview with +the skipper. He came out of the cabin at once, saying, "Well, boys, +what's the matter?" The spokesman, a bald-headed Yankee, who had been +bo'sun's mate of an American man-of-war, stepped forward and said, +offering his kid, "Jest have a look at that sir." The skipper looked, +saying, inquiringly, "Well?" "D'yew think, sir," said Nat, "THET'S +proper grub for men?" "Proper grub! Why, you old sinner, you don't mean +to say you're goin' to growl about havin' chicken for dinner?" "Well, +sir, it depends muchly upon the chicken. All I know is, that I've et +some dam queer tack in my time, but sence I ben fishin' I never had no +such bundles of sticks parcelled with leather served out to me. I HEV et +boot--leastways gnawed it; when I was cast away in a open boat for three +weeks--but it wa'n't bad boot, as boots go. Now, if yew say that these +things is boots, en thet it's necessary we should eat'em, or starve, +w'y, we'll think about it. But if yew call'em chickens,'n say you're +doin' us a kindness by stoppin' our'lowance of meat wile we're wrastlin' +with 'em, then we say we don't feel obliged to yew, 'n 'll thank yew +kindly to keep such lugsuries for yerself, 'n give us wot we signed +for." A murmur of assent confirmed this burst of eloquence, which we all +considered a very fine effort indeed. A moment's silence ensued; then +the skipper burst out, "I've often heard of such things, but hang me if +I ever believed 'em till now! You ungrateful beggars! I'll see you get +your whack, and no more, from this out. When you get any little extras +aboard this ship agen, you'll be thankful for 'em; now I tell you." "All +right, sir," said Nat; "so long as we don't hev to chaw any more of yer +biled Bimly crows, I dessay we shall worry along as usual." And, as the +Parliamentary reports say, the proceedings then terminated. + +Now, suppose the skipper had told the story to some of his shore +friends, how very funny the sailors' conduct would have been made to +appear. + +On another occasion long after, when I was mate of a barque loading +mahogany in Tonala, Mexico, the skipper thought he would practise +economy by buying a turtle instead of beef. A large turtle was obtained +for twenty-five cents, and handed over to the cook to be dealt with, +particular instructions being given him as to the apportionment of the +meat. + +At eight bells there was a gathering of the men in front of the poop, +and a summons for the captain. When he appeared, the usual stereotyped +invitation to "have a look at THAT, if you please, sir," was uttered. +The skipper was, I think, prepared for a protest, for he began to +bluster immediately. "Look here!" he bawled, "I ain't goin' to 'ave any +of your dam nonsense. You WANT somethin' to growl about, you do." "Well, +Cap'n George," said one of the men, "you shorely don't think we k'n eat +shells, do yer?" Just then I caught sight of the kid's contents, and +could hardly restrain my indignation. For in a dirty heap, the sight +of which might have pleased an Esquimaux, but was certainly enough +to disgust any civilized man, lay the calipee, or under-shell of the +turtle, hacked into irregular blocks. It had been simply boiled, and +flung into the kid, an unclean, disgusting heap of shell, with pieces +of dirty flesh attached in ragged lumps. But the skipper, red-faced and +angry, answered, "W'y, yer so-and-so ijits, that's wot the Lord Mayor of +London gives about a guinea a hounce for w'en 'e feeds lords n' dooks. +Only the haristocracy at 'ome get a charnce to stick their teeth in +such grub as that. An' 'ere are you lot a-growlin' at 'avin' it for a +change!" "That's all right, cap'n," said the man; "bein' brort up ter +such lugsuries, of corse you kin appreshyate it. So if yer keep it fer +yer own eatin', an' giv us wot we signed for, we shall be werry much +obliged." "Now, I ain't a-goin' to 'ave none o' YOUR cheek, so you'd +better git forrard. You can betcher life you won't get no more fresh +messes this voy'ge." So, with grumbling and ill-will on both sides, the +conference came to an end. But I thought, and still think, that the +mess set before those men, who had been working hard since six a.m., was +unfit for the food of a good dog. + +Out of my own experience I might give many other instances of the kind, +but I hope these will suffice to show that Jack's growling is often +justified, when both sides of the story are heard. + + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. "BOWHEAD" FISHING + +Day and night being now only distinguishable by the aid of the clock, +a constant look-out aloft was kept all through the twenty-four hours, +watch and watch, but whales were apparently very scarce. We did a good +deal of "pelagic" sealing; that is, catching seals swimming. But the +total number obtained was not great, for these creatures are only +gregarious when at their rocky haunts during the breeding season, or +among the ice just before that season begins. Our sealing, therefore, +was only a way of passing the time in the absence of nobler game, to be +abandoned at once with whales in sight. + +It was on the ninth or tenth morning after our arrival on the grounds +that a bowhead was raised, And two boats sent after him. It was my +first sight of the great MYSTICETUS, and I must confess to being much +impressed by his gigantic bulk. From the difference in shape, he looked +much larger than the largest sperm whale we had yet seen, although we +had come across some of the very biggest specimens of cachalot. + +The contrast between the two animals is most marked, so much so, in +fact, that one would hardly credit them with belonging to the same +order. Popular ideas of the whale are almost invariably taken from the +MYSTICETUS, so that the average individual generally defines a whale +as a big fish which spouts water out of the top of his head, and cannot +swallow a herring. Indeed, so lately as last year a popular M.P., +writing to one of the religious papers, allowed himself to say that +"science will not hear of a whale with a gullet capable of admitting +anything larger than a man's fist"--a piece of crass ignorance, which is +also perpetrated in the appendix to a very widely-distributed edition of +the Authorized Version of the Bible. This opinion, strangely enough, is +almost universally held, although I trust that the admirable models now +being shown in our splendid Natural History Museum at South Kensington +will do much to remove it. Not so many people, perhaps, believe that a +whale is a fish, instead of a mammal, but few indeed are the individuals +who do not still think that a cetacean possesses a sort of natural +fountain on the top of its head, whence, for some recondite reason, it +ejects at regular intervals streams of water into the air. + +But a whale can no more force water through its spiracle or blow-hole +than you or I through our nostrils. It inhales, when at the surface, +atmospheric air, and exhales breath like ours, which, coming warm into a +cooler medium, becomes visible, as does our breath on a frosty morning. + +Now, the MYSTICETUS carries his nostrils on the summit of his head, or +crown, the orifice being closed by a beautifully arranged valve when the +animal is beneath the water. Consequently, upon coming to the surface +to breathe, he sends up a jet of visible breath into the air some ten +or twelve feet. The cachalot, on the other hand, has the orifice at the +point of his square snout, the internal channel running in a slightly +diagonal direction downwards, and back through the skull to the lungs. +So when he spouts, the breath is projected forward diagonally, and, from +some peculiarity which I do not pretend to explain, expends itself in a +short, bushy tuft of vapour, very distinct from the tall vertical spout +of the bowhead or right whale. + +There was little or no wind when we sighted the individual I am now +speaking of, so we did not attempt to set sail, but pulled straight +for him "head and head." Strange as it may appear, the MYSTICETUS' +best point of view is right behind, or "in his wake," as we say; it is +therefore part of the code to approach him from right ahead, in which +direction he cannot see at all. Some time before we reached him he +became aware of our presence, showing by his uneasy actions that he had +his doubts about his personal security. But before he had made up his +mind what to do we were upon him, with our harpoons buried in his back. +The difference in his behaviour to what we had so long been accustomed +to was amazing. He did certainly give a lumbering splash or two with his +immense flukes, but no one could possibly have been endangered by them. +The water was so shallow that when he sounded it was but for a very few +minutes; there was no escape for him that way. As soon as he returned +to the surface he set off at his best gait, but that was so slow that +we easily hauled up close alongside of him, holding the boats in that +position without the slightest attempt to guard ourselves from reprisals +on his part, while the officers searched his vitals with the lances as +if they were probing a haystack. + +Really, the whole affair was so tame that it was impossible to get up +any fighting enthusiasm over it; the poor, unwieldy creature died meekly +and quietly as an overgrown seal. In less than an hour from the time of +leaving the ship we were ready to bring our prize alongside. + +Upon coming up to the whale, sail was shortened, and as soon as the +fluke-chain was passed we anchored. It was, I heard, our skipper's boast +that he could "skin a bowhead in forty minutes;" and although we were +certainly longer than that, the celerity with which what seemed a +gigantic task was accomplished was marvellous. Of course, it was all +plain-sailing, very unlike the complicated and herculean task inevitable +at the commencement of cutting-in a sperm whale. + +Except for the head work, removing the blubber was effected in precisely +the same way as in the case of the cachalot. There was a marked +difference between the quantity of lard enveloping this whale and those +we had hitherto dealt with. It was nearly double the thickness, besides +being much richer in oil, which fairly dripped from it as we hoisted +in the blanket-pieces. The upper jaw was removed for its long plates of +whalebone or baleen--that valuable substance which alone makes it worth +while nowadays to go after the MYSTICETUS, the price obtained for the +oil being so low as to make it not worth while to fit out ships to go in +search of it alone. "Trying-out" the blubber, with its accompaniments, +is carried on precisely as with the sperm whale. The resultant oil, when +recent, is of a clear white, unlike the golden-tinted fluid obtained +from the cachalot. As it grows stale it developes a nauseous smell, +which sperm does not, although the odour of the oil is otto of roses +compared with the horrible mass of putridity landed from the tanks of a +Greenland whaler at the termination of a cruise. For in those vessels, +the fishing-time at their disposal being so brief, they do not wait to +boil down the blubber, but, chopping it into small pieces, pass it below +as it is into tanks, to be rendered down by the oil-mills ashore on the +ship's return. + +This first bowhead yielded us eighteen tuns of oil and a ton of baleen, +which made the catch about equal in value to that of a seven-tun +cachalot. But the amount of labour and care necessary in order to +thoroughly dry and cleanse the baleen was enormous; in fact, for months +after we began the bowhead fishery there was almost always something +being done with the wretched stuff--drying, scraping, etc.--which, as it +was kept below, also necessitated hoisting it up on deck and getting it +down again. + +After this beginning, it was again a considerable time before we sighted +any more; but when we did, there were quite a number of them--enough +to employ all the boats with one each. I was out of the fun this time, +being almost incapable of moving by reason of several boils on my +legs--the result, I suppose, of a long abstinence from fresh vegetables, +or anything to supply their place. + +As it happened, however, I lost no excitement by remaining on board; +for while all the boats were away a large bowhead rose near the ship, +evidently being harassed in some way by enemies, which I could not at +first see. He seemed quite unconscious of his proximity to the ship, +though, and at last came so near that the whole performance was as +visible as if it had been got up for my benefit. Three "killers" were +attacking him at once, like wolves worrying a bull, except that his +motions were far less lively than those of any bull would have been. + +The "killer," or ORCA GLADIATOR, is a true whale, but, like the +cachalot, has teeth. He differs from that great cetacean, though, in a +most important particular; i.e. by having a complete set in both upper +and lower jaws, like any other carnivore. For a carnivore indeed is he, +the very wolf of the ocean, and enjoying, by reason of his extraordinary +agility as well as comparative worthlessness commercially, complete +immunity from attack by man. By some authorities he is thought to be +identical with the grampus, but whalers all consider the animals quite +distinct. Not having had very long acquaintance with them both, I cannot +speak emphatically upon this difference of opinion; so far as personal +observation goes, I agree with the whalers in believing that there is +much variation both of habits and shape between them. + +But to return to the fight. The first inkling I got of what was really +going on was the leaping of a killer high into the air by the side of +the whale, and descending upon the victim's broad, smooth back with a +resounding crash. I saw that the killer was provided with a pair of +huge fins--one on his back, the other on his belly--which at first sight +looked as if they were also weapons of offence. A little observation +convinced me that they were fins only. Again and again the aggressor +leaped into the air, falling each time on the whale's back, as if to +beat him into submission. + +The sea around foamed and boiled like a cauldron, so that it was only +occasional glimpses I was able to catch of the two killers, until +presently the worried whale lifted his head clear out of the surrounding +smother, revealing the two furies hanging--one on either side--to his +lips, as if endeavouring to drag his mouth open--which I afterwards saw +was their principal object, as whenever during the tumult I caught sight +of them, they were still in the same position. At last the tremendous +and incessant blows, dealt by the most active member of the trio, seemed +actually to have exhausted the immense vitality of the great bowhead, +for he lay supine upon the surface. Then the three joined their forces, +and succeeded in dragging open his cavernous mouth, into which they +freely entered, devouring his tongue. This, then, had been their sole +object, for as soon as they had finished their barbarous feast they +departed, leaving him helpless and dying to fall an easy prey to our +returning boats. + +Thus, although the four whales captured by the boats had been but small, +the day's take, augmented by so great a find, was a large one, and it +was a long time before we got clear of the work it entailed. + +From that time forward we saw no whales for six weeks, and, from the +reports we received from two whalers we "gammed," it appeared that we +might consider ourselves most fortunate in our catch, since they, who +had been longer on the ground than ourselves, had only one whale apiece. + +In consequence of this information, Captain Slocum decided to go south +again, and resume the sperm whaling in the North Pacific, near the +line--at least so the rumour ran; but as we never heard anything +definitely, we could not feel at all certain of our next destination. + +Ever since the fracas at the Bonins between Goliath and his watch, +the relations between Captain Slocum and the big negro had been +very strained. Even before the outbreak, as I have remarked upon one +occasion, it was noticeable that little love was lost between them. Why +this was so, without anything definite to guide one's reasoning, was +difficult to understand, for a better seaman or a smarter whaleman than +Mistah Jones did not live--of that every one was quite sure. Still, +there was no gainsaying the fact that, churlish and morose as our +skipper's normal temper always was, he was never so much so as in +his behaviour towards his able fourth mate, who, being a man of fine, +sensitive temper, chafed under his unmerited treatment so much as to +lose flesh, becoming daily more silent, nervous, and depressed. Still, +there had never been an open rupture, nor did it appear as if there +would be, so great was the power Captain Slocum possessed over the will +of everybody on board. + +One night, however, as we were nearing the Kuriles again, on our way +south, leaving the Sea of Okhotsk, I was sitting on the fore side of the +try-works alone, meditating upon what I would do when once I got +clear of this miserable business. Futile and foolish, no doubt, my +speculations were, but only in this way could I forget for a while my +surroundings, since the inestimable comfort of reading was denied me. +I had been sitting thus absorbed in thought for nearly an hour, when +Goliath came and seated himself by my side. We had always been great +friends, although, owing to the strict discipline maintained on board, +it was not often we got a chance for a "wee bit crack," as the Scotch +say. Besides, I was not in his watch, and even now he should rightly +have been below. He sat for a minute or two silent; then, as if +compelled to speak, he began in low, fierce whispers to tell me of his +miserable state of mind. At last, after recapitulating many slights +and insults he had received silently from the captain, of which I had +previously known nothing, he became strangely calm. In tones quite +unlike his usual voice, he said that he was not an American-born negro, +but a pure African, who had been enslaved in his infancy, with his +mother, somewhere in the "Hinterland" of Guinea. While still a child, +his mother escaped with him into Liberia, a where he had remained till +her death, She was, according to him, an Obeah woman of great power, +venerated exceedingly by her own people for her prophetic abilities. +Before her death, she had told him that he would die suddenly, +violently, in a struggle with a white man in a far-off country, but that +the white man would die too by his hand. She had also told him that he +would be a great traveller and hunter upon the sea. As he went on, his +speech became almost unintelligible, being mingled with fragments of a +language I had never heard before; moreover, he spoke as a man who is +only half awake. A strange terror got hold of me, for I began to think +he was going mad, and perhaps about to run a-mok, as the Malays do when +driven frantic by the infliction of real or fancied wrongs. + +But he gradually returned to his old self, to my great relief, and I +ventured somewhat timidly to remind him of the esteem in which he was +held by all hands; even the skipper, I ventured to say, respected him, +although, from some detestable form of ill-humour, he had chosen to +be so sneering and insulting towards him. He shook his head sadly, and +said, "My dear boy, youse de only man aboard dis ship--wite man, dat +is--dat don't hate an' despise me becawse ob my colour, wich I cain't +he'p; an' de God you beliebe in bless you fer dat. As fer me, w'at I +done tole you's true,'n befo' bery little w'ile you see it COME true. +'N w'en DAT happens w'at's gwine ter happen, I'se real glad to tink it +gwine ter be better fer you--gwine ter be better fer eberybody 'bord de +CACH'LOT; but I doan keer nuffin 'bout anybody else. So long." He held +out his great black hand, and shook mine heartily, while a big tear +rolled down his face and fell on the deck. And with that he left me a +prey to a very whirlpool of conflicting thoughts and fears. + +The night was a long and weary one--longer and drearier perhaps because +of the absence of the darkness, which always made it harder to sleep. +An incessant day soon becomes, to those accustomed to the relief of the +night, a burden grievous to be borne; and although use can reconcile +us to most things, and does make even the persistent light bearable, +in times of mental distress or great physical weariness one feels +irresistibly moved to cry earnestly, "Come, gentle night." + +When I came on deck at eight bells, it was a stark calm. The watch, +under Mistah Jones' direction, were busy scrubbing decks with the usual +thoroughness, while the captain, bare-footed, with trouser-legs and +shirt-sleeves rolled up, his hands on his hips and a portentous frown on +his brow, was closely looking on. As it was my spell at the crow's-nest, +I made at once for the main-rigging, and had got halfway to the top, +when some unusual sounds below arrested me. + +All hands were gathered in the waist, a not unusual thing at the +changing of the watch. In the midst of them, as I looked down, two men +came together in a fierce struggle. They were Goliath and the skipper. +Captain Slocum's right hand went naturally to his hip pocket, where he +always carried a revolver; but before he could draw it, the long, black +arms of his adversary wrapped around him, making him helpless as a babe. +Then, with a rush that sent every one flying out of his way, Goliath +hurled himself at the bulwarks, which were low, the top of the rail +about thirty-three inches from the deck. The two bodies struck the rail +with a heavy thud, instantly toppling overboard. That broke the spell +that bound everybody, so that there was an instantaneous rush to the +side. Only a hardly noticeable ripple remained on the surface of the +placid sea. + +But, from my lofty perch, the whole of the ghastly struggle had been +visible to the least detail. The two men had struck the water locked in +closest embrace, which relaxed not even when far below the surface. When +the sea is perfectly smooth, objects are visible from aloft at several +feet depth, though apparently diminished in size. The last thing I saw +was Captain Slocum's white face, with its starting black eyes looking +their last upon the huge, indefinite hull of the ship whose occupants he +had ruled so long and rigidly. + +The whole tragedy occupied such a brief moment of time that it was +almost impossible to realize that it was actual. Reason, however, soon +regained her position among the officers, who ordered the closest watch +to be kept from aloft, in case of the rising of either or both of the +men. A couple of boats were swung, ready to drop on the instant. But, +as if to crown the tragedy with completeness, a heavy squall, which +had risen unnoticed, suddenly burst upon the ship with great fury, the +lashing hail and rain utterly obscuring vision even for a few yards. +So unexpected was the onset of this squall that, for the only time that +voyage, we lost some canvas through not being able to get it in quick +enough. The topgallant halyards were let go; but while the sails were +being clewed up, the fierce wind following the rain caught them from +their confining gear, rending them into a thousand shreds. For an hour +the squall raged--a tempest in brief--then swept away to the south-east +on its furious journey, leaving peace again. Needless perhaps to say, +that after such a squall it was hopeless to look for our missing ones. +The sudden storm had certainly driven us several miles away front the +spot where they disappeared, and, although we carefully made what haste +was possible back along the line we were supposed to have come, not +a vestige of hope was in any one's mind that we should ever see them +again. + +Nor did we. Whether that madness, which I had feared was coming upon +Goliath during our previous night's conversation, suddenly overpowered +him and impelled him to commit the horrible deed, what more had +passed between him and the skipper to even faintly justify so awful a +retaliation--these things were now matters of purest speculation. As if +they had never been, the two men were blotted out--gone before God in +full-blown heat of murder and revengeful fury. + +On the same evening Mr. Count mustered all hands on the quarter-deck, +and addressed us thus: "Men, Captain Slocum is dead, and, as a +consequence, I command the ship. Behave yourself like men, not presuming +upon kindness or imagining that I am a weak, vacillating old man with +whom you can do as you like, and you will find in me a skipper who will +do his duty by you as far as lies in his power, nor expect more from you +than you ought to render. If, however, you DO try any tricks, remember +that I am an old hand, equal to most of the games that men get up to. +I do want--if you will help me--to make this a comfortable as well as a +successful ship. I hope with all my heart we shall succeed." + +In answer to this manly and affecting little speech, which confirmed +my previous estimate of Captain Count's character, were he but free to +follow the bent of his natural, kindly inclinations, and which I have +endeavoured to translate out of his usual dialect, a hearty cheer +was raised by all hands, the first ebullition of general good feeling +manifested throughout the voyage. Hearts rose joyfully at the prospect +of comfort to be gained by thoughtfulness on the part of the commander; +nor from that time forward did any sign of weariness of the ship or +voyage show itself among us, either on deck or below. + +The news soon spread among us that, in consequence of the various losses +of boats and gear, the captain deemed it necessary to make for Honolulu, +where fresh supplies could readily be obtained. We had heard many +glowing accounts from visitors, when "gamming," of the delights of this +well-known port of call for whalers, and under our new commander we had +little doubt that we should be allowed considerable liberty during our +stay. So we were quite impatient to get along fretting considerably at +the persistent fogs which prevented our making much progress while in +the vicinity of the Kuriles. But we saw no more bowheads, for which none +of us forward were at all sorry. We had got very tired of the stink +of their blubber, and the never-ending worry connected with the +preservation of the baleen; besides, we had not yet accumulated any +fund of enthusiasm about getting a full ship, except as a reason for +shortening the voyage, and we quite understood that what black oil we +had got would be landed at Hawaii, so that our visit to the Okhotsk Sea, +with its resultant store of oil, had not really brought our return home +any nearer, as we at first hoped it would. + +A great surprise was in store for me. I knew that Captain Count was +favourably inclined towards me, for he had himself told me so, but +nothing was further from my thoughts than promotion. However, one Sunday +afternoon, when we were all peacefully enjoying the unusual rest (we +had no Sundays in Captain Slocum's time), the captain sent for me. He +informed me that, after mature consideration, he had chosen me to fill +the vacancy made by the death of Mistah Jones. Mr. Cruce was now mate; +the waspish little third had become second; Louis Silva, the captain's +favourite harpooner was third; and I was to be fourth. Not feeling at +all sure of how the other harpooners would take my stepping over their +heads, I respectfully demurred to the compliment offered me, stating +my reasons. But the captain said he had fully made up his mind, +after consultation with the other officers, and that I need have no +apprehension on the score of the harpooners' jealousy; that they +had been spoken to on the subject, and they were all agreed that the +captain's choice was the best, especially as none of them knew anything +of navigation, or could write their own names. + +In consequence of there being none of the crew fit to take a harpooner's +place, I was now really harpooner of the captain's boat, which he +would continue to work, when necessary, until we were able to ship a +harpooner, which he hoped to do at Hawaii. + +The news of my promotion was received in grim silence by the Portuguese +forward, but the white men all seemed pleased. This was highly +gratifying to me, for I had tried my best to be helpful to all, as far +as my limited abilities would let me; nor do I think I had an enemy +in the ship. Behold me, then, a full-blown "mister," with a definite +substantial increase in my prospects of pay of nearly one-third, +in addition to many other advantages, which, under the new captain, +promised exceedingly well. + +More than half the voyage lay behind us, looking like the fast-settling +bank of storm-clouds hovering above the tempest-tossed sea so lately +passed, while ahead the bright horizon was full of promise of fine +weather for the remainder of the journey. + + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. VISIT TO HONOLULU + +Right glad were we all when, after much fumbling and box-hauling about, +we once more felt the long, familiar roll of the Pacific swell, and saw +the dim fastnesses of the smoky islands fading into the lowering gloom +astern. Most deep-water sailors are familiar, by report if not by actual +contact, with the beauties of the Pacific islands, and I had often +longed to visit them to see for myself whether the half that had been +told me was true. Of course, to a great number of seafaring men, the +loveliness of those regions counts for nothing, their desirability +being founded upon the frequent opportunities of unlimited indulgence in +debauchery. To such men, a "missionary" island is a howling wilderness, +and the missionaries themselves the subjects of the vilest abuse as well +as the most boundless lying. + +No one who has travelled with his eyes open would assert that all +missionaries were wise, prudent, or even godly men; while it is a great +deal to be regretted that so much is made of hardships which in a +large proportion of cases do not exist, the men who are supposed to be +enduring them being immensely better off and more comfortable than they +would ever have been at home. Undoubtedly the pioneers of missionary +enterprise had, almost without exception, to face dangers and miseries +past telling, but that is the portion of pioneers in general. In these +days, however, the missionary's lot in Polynesia is not often a hard +one, and in many cases it is infinitely to be preferred to a life among +the very poor of our great cities. + +But when all has been said that can be said against the missionaries, +the solid bastion of fact remains that, in consequence of their labours, +the whole vile character of the populations of the Pacific has been +changed, and where wickedness runs riot to-day, it is due largely to the +hindrances placed in the way of the noble efforts of the missionaries +by the unmitigated scoundrels who vilify them. The task of spreading +Christianity would not, after all, be so difficult were it not for the +efforts of those apostles of the devil to keep the islands as they would +like them to be--places where lust runs riot day and night, murder may +be done with impunity, slavery flourishes, and all evil may be indulged +in free from law, order, or restraint. + +It speaks volumes for the inherent might of the Gospel that, in spite of +the object-lessons continually provided for the natives by white men of +the negation of all good, that it has stricken its roots so deeply into +the soil of the Pacific islands. Just as the best proof of the reality +of the Gospel here in England is that it survives the incessant assaults +upon it from within by its professors, by those who are paid, and highly +paid, to propagate it, by the side of whose deadly doings the efforts +of so-called infidels are but as the battery of a summer breeze; so +in Polynesia, were not the principles of Christianity vital with an +immortal and divine life, missionary efforts might long ago have ceased +in utter despair at the fruitlessness of the field. + +We were enjoying a most uneventful passage, free from any serious +changes either of wind or weather which quiet time was utilised to +the utmost in making many much-needed additions to the running-gear, +repairing rigging, etc. Any work involving the use of new material had +been put off from time to time during the previous part of the voyage +till the ship aloft was really in a dangerous condition. This was +due entirely to the peculiar parsimony of our late skipper, who could +scarcely bring himself to broach a coil of rope, except for whaling +purposes. The same false economy had prevailed with regard to paint +and varnish, so that the vessel, while spotlessly clean, presented a +worn-out weather-beaten appearance. Now, while the condition of life on +board was totally different to what it had been, as regards comfort and +peace, discipline and order were maintained at the same high level as +always, though by a different method--in fact, I believe that a great +deal more work was actually done, certainly much more that was useful +and productive; for Captain Count hated, as much as any foremast hand +among us, the constant, remorseless grind of iron-work polishing, +paint-work scrubbing, and holystoning, all of which, though necessary +in a certain degree, when kept up continually for the sole purpose +of making work--a sort of elaborated tread-mill, in fact--becomes the +refinement of cruelty to underfed, unpaid, and hopeless men. + +So, while the CACHALOT could have fearlessly challenged comparison with +any ship afloat for cleanliness and neatness of appearance, the hands no +longer felt that they were continually being "worked up" or "hazed" for +the sole, diabolical satisfaction of keeping them "at it." Of course, +the incidence of the work was divided, since so many of the crew +were quite unable to do any sailorizing, as we term work in sails and +rigging. Upon them, then, fell all the common labour, which can be done +by any unskilled man or woman afloat or ashore. + +Of this work a sailor's duties are largely made up, but when good people +ashore wonder "whatever sailors do with their time," it would be useful +for them to remember that a ship is a huge and complicated machine, +needing constant repairs, which can only be efficiently performed by +skilled workmen. An "A.B." or able seaman's duties are legally supposed +to be defined by the three expressions, "hand, reef, and steer." If +he can do those three things, which mean furling or making fast sails, +reefing them, and steering the ship, his wages cannot be reduced for +incompetency. Yet these things are the A B C of seamanship only. A +good SEAMAN is able to make all the various knots, splices, and other +arrangements in hempen or wire rope, without which a ship cannot be +rigged; he can make a sail, send up or down yards and masts, and do +many other things, the sum total of which need several years of steady +application to learn, although a good seaman is ever learning. + +Such seamen are fast becoming extinct. They are almost totally +unnecessary in steamships, except when the engines break down in a gale +of wind, and the crowd of navvies forming the crew stand looking at one +another when called upon to set sail or do any other job aloft. THEN the +want of seamen is rather severely felt. But even in sailing ships--the +great, overgrown tanks of two thousand tons and upwards--mechanical +genius has utilized iron to such an extent in their rigging that +sailor-work has become very largely a matter of blacksmithing. I make no +complaint of this, not believing that the "old was better;" but, since +the strongest fabric of man's invention comes to grief sometimes in +conflict with the irresistible sea, some provision should be made +for having a sufficiency of seamen who could exercise their skill in +refitting a dismasted ship, or temporarily replacing broken blacksmith +work by old-fashioned rope and wood. + +But, as the sailing ship is doomed inevitably to disappear before steam, +perhaps it does not matter much. The economic march of the world's +progress will never be stayed by sentimental considerations, nor will +all the romance and poetry in the world save the seaman from extinction, +if his place can be more profitably filled by the engineer. From all +appearances, it soon will be, for even now marine superintendents of +big lines are sometimes engineers, and in their hands lie the duty of +engaging the officers. It would really seem as if the ship of the near +future would be governed by the chief engineer, under whose direction a +pilot or sailing-master would do the necessary navigation, without power +to interfere in any matter of the ship's economy. Changes as great have +taken place in other professions; seafaring cannot hope to be the sole +exception. + +So, edging comfortably along, we gradually neared the Sandwich Islands +without having seen a single spout worth watching since the tragedy. +At last the lofty summits of the island mountains hove in sight, +and presently we came to an anchor in that paradise of whalers, +missionaries, and amateur statesmen--Honolulu. As it is as well known +to most reading people as our own ports--better perhaps--I shall not +attempt to describe it, or pit myself against the able writers who have +made it so familiar. Yet to me it was a new world. All things were +so strange, so delightful, especially the lovable, lazy, fascinating +Kanakas, who could be so limply happy over a dish of poi, or a green +cocoa-nut, or even a lounge in the sun, that it seemed an outrage to +expect them to work. In their sports they could be energetic enough. I +do not know of any more delightful sight than to watch them bathing +in the tremendous surf, simply intoxicated with the joy of living, +as unconscious of danger as if swinging in a hammock while riding +triumphantly upon the foaming summit of an incoming breaker twenty feet +high, or plunging with a cataract over the dizzy edge of its cliff, +swallowed up in the hissing vortex below, only to reappear with a scream +of riotous laughter in the quiet eddy beyond. + +As far as I could judge, they were the happiest of people, literally +taking no thought for the morrow, and content with the barest +necessaries of life, so long as they were free and the sun shone +brightly. We had many opportunities of cultivating their acquaintance, +for the captain allowed us much liberty, quite one-half of the crew and +officers being ashore most of the time. Of course, the majority spent +all their spare time in the purlieus of the town, which, like all such +places anywhere, were foul and filthy enough; but that was their own +faults. I have often wondered much to see men, who on board ship were +the pink of cleanliness and neatness, fastidious to a fault in all they +did, come ashore and huddle in the most horrible of kennels, among the +very dregs and greaves of the 'long-shore district. It certainly wants a +great deal of explanation; but I suppose the most potent reason is, that +sailors, as a class, never learn to enjoy themselves rationally. They +are also morbidly suspicions of being taken in hand by anybody who +would show them anything worth seeing, preferring to be led by the human +sharks that infest all seaports into ways of strange nastiness, and so +expensive withal that one night of such wallowing often costs them more +than a month's sane recreation and good food would. All honour to the +devoted men and women who labour in our seaports for the moral and +material benefit of the sailor, passing their lives amidst sights and +sounds shocking and sickening to the last degree, reviled, unthanked, +unpaid. Few are the missionaries abroad whose lot is so hard as theirs. + +We spent ten happy days in Honolulu, marred only by one or two drunken +rows among the chaps forward, which, however, resulted in their getting +a severe dressing down in the forecastle, where good order was now kept. +There had been no need for interference on the part of the officers, +which I was glad to see, remembering what would have happened under such +circumstances not long ago. Being short-handed, the captain engaged a +number of friendly islanders for a limited period, on the understanding +that they were to be discharged at their native place, Vau Vau. There +were ten of them, fine stalwart fellows, able bodied and willing as +possible. They were cleanly in their habits, and devout members of the +Wesleyan body, so that their behaviour was quite a reproach to some of +our half-civilized crew. Berths were found for them in the forecastle, +and they took their places among us quite naturally, being fairly well +used to a whale-ship. + + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. ON THE "LINE" GROUNDS + +We weighed at last, one morning, with a beautiful breeze, and, bidding +a long farewell to the lovely isles and their amiable inhabitants, stood +at sea, bound for the "line" or equatorial grounds on our legitimate +business of sperm whaling. It was now a long while since we had been in +contact with a cachalot, the last one having been killed by us on the +Coast of Japan some six months before. But we all looked forward to the +coming campaign with considerable joy, for we were now a happy family, +interested in the work, and, best of all, even if the time was still +distant, we were, in a sense, homeward bound. At any rate, we all chose +so to think, from the circumstance that we were now working to the +southward, towards Cape Horn, the rounding of which dreaded point would +mark the final stage of our globe-encircling voyage. + +We had, during our stay at Honolulu, obtained a couple of grand boats in +addition to our stock, and were now in a position to man and lower five +at once, if occasion should arise, still leaving sufficient crew on +board to work the vessel. The captain had also engaged an elderly seaman +of his acquaintance--out of pure philanthropy, as we all thought, +since he was in a state of semi-starvation ashore--to act as a kind of +sailing-master, so as to relieve the captain of ship duty at whaling +time, allowing him still to head his boat. This was not altogether +welcome news to me, for, much as I liked the old man and admired his +pluck, I could not help dreading his utter recklessness when on a +whale, which had so often led to a smash-up that might have been easily +avoided. Moreover, I reasoned that if he had been foolhardy before, he +was likely to be much more so now, having no superior to look black +or use language when a disaster occurred. For now I was his harpooner, +bound to take as many risks as he chose to incur, and anxious also +to earn a reputation among the more seasoned whalemen for smartness +sufficient to justify my promotion. + +The Kanakas shipped at Honolulu were distributed among the boats, two +to each, being already trained whalemen, and a fine lot of fellows they +were. My two--Samuela and Polly--were not very big men, but sturdy, +nimble as cats, as much at home in the water as on deck, and simply +bubbling over with fun and good-humour. From my earliest sea-going, +I have always had a strong liking for natives of tropical countries, +finding them affectionate and amenable to kindness. Why, I think, white +men do not get on with darkies well, as a rule, is, that they seldom +make an appeal to the MAN, in them. It is very degrading to find one's +self looked down upon as a sort of animal without reason or feelings; +and if you degrade a man, you deprive him of any incentive to make +himself useful, except the brute one you may feel bound to apply +yourself. My experience has been limited to Africans (of sorts), +Kanakas, natives of Hindostan, Malagasy, and Chinese; but with all these +I have found a little COMARADERIE answer excellently. True, they are +lazy; but what inducement have they to work? The complicated needs +of our civilized existence compel US to work, or be run over by the +unresting machine; but I take leave to doubt whether any of us with a +primitive environment would not be as lazy as any Kanaka that ever dozed +under a banana tree through daylight hours. Why, then, make an exalted +virtue of the necessity which drives us, and objurgate the poor black +man because he prefers present ease to a doubtful prospective retirement +on a competency? Australian blackfellows and Malays are said to be +impervious to kind treatment by a great number of witnesses, the former +appearing incapable of gratitude, and the latter unable to resist the +frequent temptation to kill somebody. Not knowing anything personally of +either of these races, I can say nothing for or against them. + +All the coloured individuals that I have had to do with have amply +repaid any little kindness shown them with fidelity and affection, but +especially has this been the case with Kanakas, The soft and melodious +language spoken by them is easy to acquire, and is so pleasant to speak +that it is well worth learning, to say nothing of the convenience to +yourself, although the Kanaka speedily picks up the mutilated jargon +which does duty for English on board ship. + +What I specially longed for now was a harpooner, or even two, so that +I might have my boat to myself, the captain taking his own boat with +a settled harpooner. Samuela, the biggest of my two Kanakas, very +earnestly informed me that he was no end of a "number one" whale +slaughterer; but I judged it best to see how things went before asking +to have him promoted. My chance, and his, came very promptly; so nicely +arranged, too, that I could not have wished for anything better. The +skipper had got a fine, healthy boil on one knee-cap, and another on +his wrist, so that he was, as you may say, HORS DE COMBAT. While he was +impatiently waiting to get about once more, sperm whales were raised. +Although nearly frantic with annoyance, he was compelled to leave the +direction of things to Mr. Cruce, who was quite puffed up with the +importance of his opportunity. + +Such a nice little school of cow-whales, a lovely breeze, clear sky, +warm weather--I felt as gay as a lark at the prospect. As we were +reaching to windward, with all boats ready for lowering, the skipper +called me aft and said, "Naow, Mr. Bullen, I cain't lower, because of +this condemned leg'n arm of mine; but how'r yew goin' ter manage 'thout +a harpooneer?" I suggested that if he would allow me to try Samuela, who +was suffering for a chance to distinguish himself, we would "come out on +top." "All right," he said; "but let the other boats get fast first, +'n doan be in too much of a hurry to tie yerself up till ya see what's +doin'. If everythin's goin' bizness-fashion', 'n yew git a chance, sail +right in; yew got ter begin some time. But ef thet Kanaka looks +skeered goin' on, take the iron frum him ter onct." I promised, and the +interview ended. + +When I told Samuela, of his chance, he was beside himself with joy. As +to his being scared, the idea was manifestly absurd. He was as pleased +with the prospect as it was possible for a man to be, and hardly able +to contain himself for impatience to be off. I almost envied him his +exuberant delight, for a sense of responsibility began to weigh upon me +with somewhat depressing effect. + +We gained a good weather-gage, rounded to, and lowered four boats. +Getting away in good style, we had barely got the sails up, when +something gallied the school. We saw or heard nothing to account for it, +but undoubtedly the "fish" were off at top speed dead to windward, so +that our sails were of no use. We had them in with as little delay as +possible, and lay to our oars for all we were worth, being fresh and +strong, as well as anxious to get amongst them. But I fancy all our +efforts would have availed us little had it not been for the experience +of Mr. Cruce, whose eager eye detected the fact that the fish were +running on a great curve, and shaped our course to cut them off along a +chord of the arc. + +Two and a half hours of energetic work was required of us before we got +on terms with the fleeing monsters; but at last, to our great joy, +they broke water from sounding right among us. It was a considerable +surprise, but we were all ready, and before they had spouted twice, +three boats were fast, only myself keeping out, in accordance with my +instructions. Samuela was almost distraught with rage and grief at the +condition of things. I quite pitied him, although I was anything but +pleased myself. However, when I ranged up alongside the mate's fish, to +render what assistance was needed, he shouted to me, "We's all right; +go'n git fas', if yew kin." That was enough, and away we flew after a +retreating spout to leeward. Before we got there, though, there was an +upheaval in the water just ahead, and up came a back like a keelless +ship bottom up. Out came the head belonging to it, and a spout like +an explosion burst forth, denoting the presence of an enormous +bull-cachalot. Close by his side was a cow of about one-third his size, +the favoured sultana of his harem, I suppose. Prudence whispered, +"Go for the cow;" ambition hissed, "All or none--the bull, the bull." +Fortunately emergencies of this kind leave one but a second or two to +decide, as a rule; in this case, as it happened, I was spared even +that mental conflict, for as we ran up between the two vast creatures, +Samuela, never even looking at the cow, hurled his harpoon, with all +the energy that he had been bursting with so long, at the mighty bull. +I watched its flight--saw it enter the black mass and disappear to the +shaft, and almost immediately came the second iron, within a foot of the +first, burying itself in the same solid fashion. + +"Starn--starn all!" I shouted; and we backed slowly away, considerably +hampered by the persistent attentions of the cow, who hung round +us closely. The temptation to lance her was certainly great, but I +remembered the fate that had overtaken the skipper on the first occasion +we struck whales, and did not meddle with her ladyship. Our prey was not +apparently disposed to kick up much fuss at first, so, anxious to settle +matters, I changed ends with Samuela, and pulled in on the whale. A +good, steady lance-thrust--the first I had ever delivered--was obtained, +sending a thrill of triumph through my whole body. The recipient, +thoroughly roused by this, started off at a great lick, accompanied, +somewhat to my surprise, by the cow. Thenceforward for another hour, +in spite of all our efforts, we could not get within striking distance, +mainly because of the close attention of the cow, which stuck to her +lord like a calf to its mother. I was getting so impatient of this +hindrance, that it was all I could do to restrain myself from lancing +the cow, though I felt convinced that, if I did, I should spoil a good +job. Suddenly I caught sight of the ship right ahead. We were still +flying along, so that in a short time we were comparatively close to +her. My heart beat high and I burned to distinguish myself under the +friendly and appreciative eye of the skipper. + +None of the other boats were in sight, from our level at least, so that +I had a reasonable hope of being able to finish my game, with all the +glory thereunto attaching, unshared by any other of my fellow-officers. +As we ran quite closely past the ship, calling on the crew to haul up +for all they were worth, we managed actually to squeeze past the cow, +and I got in a really deadly blow. The point of the lance entered just +between the fin and the eye, but higher up, missing the broad plate of +the shoulder-blade, and sinking its whole four feet over the hitches +right down into the animal's vitals. Then, for the first time, he threw +up his flukes, thrashing them from side to side almost round to his +head, and raising such a turmoil that we were half full of water in +a moment. But Samuela was so quick at the steer-oar, so lithe and +forceful, and withal appeared so to anticipate every move of mine, that +there seemed hardly any danger. + +After a few moments of this tremendous exertion, our victim settled +down, leaving the water deeply stained with his gushing blood. With him +disappeared his constant companion, the faithful cow, who had never left +his side a minute since we first got fast. Down, down they went, until +my line began to look very low, and I was compelled to make signals to +the ship for more. We had hardly elevated the oars, when down dropped +the last boat with four men in her, arriving by my side in a few minutes +with two fresh tubs of tow-line. We took them on board, and the boat +returned again. By the time the slack came we had about four hundred and +fifty fathoms out--a goodly heap to pile up loose in our stern-sheets. I +felt sure, however, that we should have but little more trouble with our +fish; in fact, I was half afraid that he would die before getting to +the surface, in which case he might sink and be lost. We hauled steadily +away, the line not coming in very easily, until I judged there was only +about another hundred fathoms out. Our amazement may be imagined, when +suddenly we were compelled to sleek away again, the sudden weight on the +line suggesting that the fish was again sounding. If ever a young hand +was perplexed, it was I. Never before had I heard of such unseemly +behaviour, nor was my anxiety lessened when I saw, a short distance +away, the huge body of my prize at the surface spouting blood. At the +same time, I was paying out line at a good rate, as if I had a fast fish +on which was sounding briskly. + +The skipper had been watching me very closely from his seat on the +taffrail, and had kept the ship within easy distance. Now, suspecting +something out of the common, he sent the boat again to my assistance, +in charge of the cooper. When that worthy arrived, he said, "Th' ol' man +reckens yew've got snarled erp'ith thet ar' loose keow, 'n y'r irons hev +draw'd from th' other. I'm gwine ter wait on him,'n get him 'longside +'soon's he's out'er his flurry. Ole man sez yew'd best wait on what's +fast t' yer an' nev' mine th' other." Away he went, reaching my prize +just as the last feeble spout exhaled, leaving the dregs of that great +flood of life trickling lazily down from the widely expanded spiracle. +To drive a harpoon into the carcass, and run the line on board, was the +simplest of jobs, for, as the captain had foreseen, my irons were drawn +clean. I had no leisure to take any notice of them now, though, for +whatever was on my line was coming up hand-over-fist. + +With a bound it reached the surface--the identical cow so long attendant +upon the dead whale. Having been so long below for such a small whale, +she was quite exhausted, and before she had recovered we had got +alongside of her and lanced her, so thoroughly that she died without +a struggle. The ship was so close that we had her alongside in a +wonderfully short time, and with scarcely any trouble. + +When I reached the deck, the skipper called me, and said several things +that made me feel about six inches taller. He was, as may be thought, +exceedingly pleased, saying that only once in his long career had he +seen a similar case; for I forgot to mention that the line was entangled +around the cow's down-hanging jaw, as if she had actually tried to bite +in two the rope that held her consort, and only succeeded in sharing +his fate. I would not like to say that whales do not try to thus sever a +line, but, their teeth being several inches apart, conical, and fitting +into sockets in the upper jaw instead of meeting the opposed surfaces +of other teeth, the accomplishment of such a feat must, I think, be +impossible. + +The ship being now as good as anchored by the vast mass of flesh hanging +to her, there was a tremendous task awaiting us to get the other fish +alongside. Of course they were all to windward; they nearly always are, +unless the ship is persistently "turned to windward" while the fishing +is going on. Whalers believe that they always work up into the wind +while fast, and, when dead, it is certain that they drift at a pretty +good rate right in the "wind's eye." This is accounted for by the play +of the body, which naturally lies head to wind; and the wash of the +flukes, which, acting somewhat like the "sculling" of an oar at the +stern of a boat, propel the carcass in the direction it is pointing, +Consequently we had a cruel amount of towing to do before we got the +three cows alongside. Many a time we blessed ourselves that they were no +bigger, for of all the clumsy things to tow with boats, a sperm whale +is about the worst. Owing to the great square mass of the head, they can +hardly be towed head-on at all, the practice being to cut off the tips +of the flukes, and tow them tail first. But even then it is slavery. To +dip your oar about three times in the same hole from whence you withdrew +it, to tug at it with all your might, apparently making as much progress +as though you were fast to a dock-wall, and to continue this fun for +four or five hours at a stretch, is to wonder indeed whether you have +not mistaken your vocation. + +However, "it's dogged as does it," so by dint of sheer sticking to the +oar, we eventually succeeded in getting all our prizes alongside before +eight bells that evening, securing them around us by hawsers to the +cows, but giving the big bull the post of honour alongside on the best +fluke-chain. + +We were a busy company for a fortnight thence, until the last of the oil +was run below--two hundred and fifty barrels, or twenty-five tuns, +of the valuable fluid having rewarded our exertions. During these +operations we had drifted night and day, apparently without anybody +taking the slightest account of the direction we were taking; when, +therefore, on the day after clearing up the last traces of our fishing, +the cry of "Land ho!" came ringing down from the crow's-nest, no one was +surprised, although the part of the Pacific in which we were cruising +has but few patches of TERRA FIRMA scattered about over its immense area +when compared with the crowded archipelagoes lying farther south and +east. + +We could not see the reported land from the deck for two hours after +it was first seen from aloft, although the odd spectacle of a scattered +group of cocoa-nut trees apparently growing out of the sea was for some +time presented to us before the island itself came into view. It +was Christmas Island, where the indefatigable Captain Cook landed on +December 24, 1777, for the purpose of making accurate observations of an +eclipse of the sun. He it was who gave to this lonely atoll the name it +has ever since borne, with characteristic modesty giving his own great +name to a tiny patch of coral which almost blocks the entrance to the +central lagoon. Here we lay "off and on" for a couple of days, while +foraging parties went ashore, returning at intervals with abundance +of turtle and sea-fowls' eggs. But any detailed account of their +proceedings must be ruthlessly curtailed, owing to the scanty limits of +space remaining. + + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. EDGING SOUTHWARD + +The line whaling grounds embrace an exceedingly extensive area, over the +whole of which sperm whales may be found, generally of medium size. No +means of estimating the probable plenty or scarcity of them in any given +part of the grounds exist, so that falling in with them is purely a +matter of coincidence. To me it seems a conclusive proof of the enormous +numbers of sperm whales frequenting certain large breadths of ocean, +that they should be so often fallen in with, remembering what a little +spot is represented by a day's cruise, and that the signs which denote +almost infallibly the vicinity of right whales are entirely absent in +the case of the cachalot. In the narrow waters of the Greenland seas, +with quite a small number of vessels seeking, it is hardly possible for +a whale of any size to escape being seen; but in the open ocean a goodly +fleet may cruise over a space of a hundred thousand square miles without +meeting any of the whales that may yet be there in large numbers. So +that when one hears talk of the extinction of the cachalot, it is well +to bear in mind that such a thing would take a long series of years to +effect, even were the whaling business waxing instead of waning, While, +however, South Sea whaling is conducted on such old-world methods +as still obtain; while steam, with all the power it gives of rapidly +dealing with a catch, is not made use of, the art and mystery of the +whale-fisher must continually decrease. No such valuable lubricant has +ever been found as sperm oil; but the cost of its production, added to +the precarious nature of the supply, so handicaps it in the competition +with substitutes that it has been practically eliminated from the +English markets, except in such greatly adulterated forms as to render +it a lie to speak of the mixture as sperm oil at all. + +Except to a few whose minds to them are kingdoms, and others who +can hardly be said to have any minds at all, the long monotony of +unsuccessful seeking for whales is very wearying. The ceaseless motion +of the vessel rocking at the centre of a circular space of blue, with a +perfectly symmetrical dome of azure enclosing her above, unflecked by +a single cloud, becomes at last almost unbearable from its changeless +sameness of environment. Were it not for the trivial round and common +task of everyday ship duty, some of the crew must become idiotic, or, in +sheer rage at the want of interest in their lives, commit mutiny. + +Such a weary time was ours for full four weeks after sighting Christmas +Island. The fine haul we had obtained just previous to that day seemed +to have exhausted our luck for the time being, for never a spout did we +see. And it was with no ordinary delight that we hailed the advent of +an immense school of black-fish, the first we had run across for a long +time. Determined to have a big catch, if possible, we lowered all five +boats, as it was a beautifully calm day, and the ship might almost +safely have been left to look after herself. After what we had recently +been accustomed to, the game seemed trifling to get up much excitement +over; but still, for a good day's sport, commend me to a few lively +black-fish. + +In less than ten minutes we were in the thick of the crowd, with +harpoons flying right and left. Such a scene of wild confusion and +uproarious merriment ensued as I never saw before in my life. The +skipper, true to his traditions, got fast to four, all running different +ways at once, and making the calm sea boil again with their frantic +gyrations. Each of the other boats got hold of three; but, the mate +getting too near me, our fish got so inextricably tangled up that it was +hopeless to try and distinguish between each other's prizes. However, +when we got the lances to work among them, the hubbub calmed down +greatly, and the big bodies one by one ceased their gambols, floating +supine. + +So far, all had been gay; but the unlucky second mate must needs go and +do a thing that spoiled a day's fun entirely. The line runs through a +deep groove in the boat's stem, over a brass roller so fitted that +when the line is running out it remains fixed, but when hauling in it +revolves freely, assisting the work a great deal. The second mate had +three fish fast, like the rest of us--the first one on the end of the +main line, the other two on "short warps," or pieces of whale-line some +eight or ten fathoms long fastened to harpoons, with the other ends +running on the main line by means of bowlines round it. By some mistake +or other he had allowed the two lines to be hauled together through the +groove in his boat's stem, and before the error was noticed two fish +spurted off in opposite directions, ripping the boat in two halves +lengthways, like a Dutchman splitting a salt herring. + +Away went the fish with the whole of the line, nobody being able to get +at it to cut; and, but for the presence of mind shown by the crew +in striking out and away from the tangle, a most ghastly misfortune, +involving the loss of several lives, must have occurred. As it was, the +loss was considerable, almost outweighing the gain on the day's fishing, +besides the inconvenience of having a boat useless on a whaling grounds. + +The accident was the fruit of gross carelessness, and should never have +occurred; but then, strange to say, disasters to whale-boats are nearly +always due to want of care, the percentage of unavoidable casualties +being very small as compared with those like the one just related. When +the highly dangerous nature of the work is remembered, this statement +may seem somewhat overdrawn; but it has been so frequently corroborated +by others, whose experience far outweighs my own, that I do not hesitate +to make it with the fullest confidence in its truth. + +Happily no lives were lost on this occasion, for it would have indeed +been grievous to have seen our shipmates sacrificed to the MANES of a +mere black-fish, after successfully encountering so many mighty whales. +The episode gave us a great deal of unnecessary work getting the two +halves of the boat saved, in addition to securing our fish, so that by +the time we got the twelve remaining carcasses hove on deck we were all +quite fagged out. But under the new regime we were sure of a good rest, +so that did not trouble us; it rather made the lounge on deck in the +balmy evening air and the well-filled pipe of peace doubly sweet. + +Our next day's work completed the skinning of the haul we had made, the +last of the carcasses going overboard with a thunderous splash at +four in the afternoon. The assemblage of sharks round the ship on +this occasion was incredible for its number and the great size of the +creatures. Certainly no mariners see so many or such huge sharks as +whalemen; but, in spite of all our previous experience, this day touched +high-water mark. Many of these fish were of a size undreamed of by the +ordinary seafarer, some of them full thirty feet in length, more like +whales than sharks. Most of them were striped diagonally with bands +of yellow, contrasting curiously with the dingy grey of their normal +colour. From this marking is derived their popular name--"tiger sharks," +not, as might be supposed, from their ferocity. That attribute cannot +properly be applied to the SQUALUS at all, which is one of the +most timid fish afloat, and whose ill name, as far as regards +blood-thirstiness, is quite undeserved. Rapacious the shark certainly +is; but what sea-fish is not? He is not at all particular as to his +diet; but what sea-fish is? With such a great bulk of body, such +enormous vitality and vigour to support, he must needs be ever eating; +and since he is not constructed on swift enough lines to enable him +to prey upon living fish, like most of his neighbours, he is perforce +compelled to play the humble but useful part of a sea-scavenger. + +He eats man, as he eats anything else eatable because in the water man +is easily caught, and not from natural depravity or an acquired taste +begetting a decided preference for human flesh. All natives of shores +infested by sharks despise him and his alleged man-eating propensities, +knowing that a very feeble splashing will suffice to frighten him away +even if ever so hungry. Demerara River literally swarms with sharks, yet +I have often seen a negro, clad only in a beaming smile, slip into its +muddy waters, and, after a few sharp blows with his open hand upon the +surface, calmly swim down to the bottom, clear a ship's anchor, or +do whatever job was required, coming up again as leisurely as if in a +swimming-bath. A similar disregard of the dangerous attributes awarded +by popular consent to the shark may be witnessed everywhere among the +people who know him best. The cruelties perpetrated upon sharks by +seamen generally are the result of ignorance and superstition combined, +the most infernal forces known to humanity. What would be said at home +of such an act, if it could be witnessed among us, as the disembowelling +of a tiger, say, and then letting him run in that horrible condition +somewhere remote from the possibility of retaliating upon his torturers? +Yet that is hardly comparable with a similar atrocity performed upon +a shark, because he will live hours to the tiger's minutes in such a +condition. + +I once caught a shark nine feet long, which we hauled on board and +killed by cutting off its head and tail. It died very speedily--for a +shark--all muscular motion ceasing in less than fifteen minutes. It was +my intention to prepare that useless and unornamental article so dear to +sailors--a walking-stick made of a shark's backbone. But when I came to +cut out the vertebra, I noticed a large scar, extending from one side to +the other, right across the centre of the back. Beneath it the backbone +was thickened to treble its normal size, and perfectly rigid; in fact, +it had become a mass of solid bone. At some time or other this shark had +been harpooned so severely that, in wrenching himself free, he must +have nearly torn his body in two halves, severing the spinal column +completely. Yet such a wound as that had been healed by natural process, +the bone knit together again with many times the strength it had +before--minus, of course, its flexibility--and I can testify from the +experience of securing him that he could not possibly have been more +vigorous than he was. + +A favourite practice used to be--I trust it is so no longer--to catch a +shark, and, after driving a sharpened stake down through his upper jaw +and out underneath the lower one, so that its upper portion pointed +diagonally forward, to let him go again. The consequence of this cruelty +would be that the fish was unable to open his mouth, or go in any +direction without immediately coming to the surface. How long he might +linger in such torture, one can only guess; but unless his fellows, +finding him thus helpless, came along and kindly devoured him, no doubt +he would exist in extreme agony for a very long time. + +Two more small cows were all that rewarded our search during the next +fortnight, and we began to feel serious doubts as to the success of our +season upon the line grounds, after all. Still, on the whole, our voyage +up to the present had not been what might fairly be called unsuccessful, +for we were not yet two years away from New Bedford, while we had +considerably more than two thousand barrels of oil on board--more, in +fact, than two-thirds of a full cargo. But if a whale were caught every +other day for six months, and then a month elapsed without any being +seen, grumbling would be loud and frequent, all the previous success +being forgotten in the present stagnation. Perhaps it is not so +different in other professions nearer home? + +Christmas Day drew near, beloved of Englishmen all the world over, +though thought little of by Americans. The two previous ones spent on +board the CACHALOT have been passed over without mention, absolutely no +notice being taken of the season by any one on board, to all appearance. +In English ships some attempt is always made to give the day somewhat +of a festive character, and to maintain the national tradition of +good-cheer and goodwill in whatever part of the world you may happen to +be. For some reason or other, perhaps because of the great increase in +comfort; we had all experienced lately, I felt the approach of the great +Christian anniversary very strongly; although, had I been in London, I +should probably have spent it in lonely gloom, having no relatives or +friends whom I might visit. But what of that? Christmas is Christmas; +and, if we have no home, we think of the place where our home should be; +and whether, as cynics sneer, Dickens invented the English Christmas or +not, its observance has taken deep root among us. May its shadow never +be less! + +On Christmas morning I mounted to the crow's-nest at daybreak, and stood +looking with never-failing awe at the daily marvel of the sunrise. +Often and often have I felt choking for words to express the tumult of +thoughts aroused by this sublime spectacle. Hanging there in cloudland, +the tiny microcosm at one's feet forgotten, the grandeur of the +celestial outlook is overwhelming. Many and many a time I have bowed +my head and wept in pure reverence at the majesty manifested around +me while the glory of the dawn increased and brightened, till with one +exultant bound the sun appeared. + +For some time I stood gazing straight ahead of me with eyes that +saw not, filled with wonder and admiration. I must have been looking +directly at the same spot for quite a quarter of an hour, when suddenly, +as if I had but just opened my eyes, I saw the well-known bushy spout of +a sperm whale. I raised the usual yell, which rang through the stillness +discordantly, startling all hands out of their lethargy like bees out +of a hive. After the usual preliminaries, we were all afloat with +sails set, gliding slowly over the sleeping sea towards the unconscious +objects of our attention. The captain did not lower this time, as there +only appeared to be three fish, none of them seeming large. Though at +any distance it is extremely difficult to assess the size of whales, the +spout being very misleading. Sometimes a full-sized whale will show a +small spout, while a twenty-barrel cow will exhale a volume of vapour +extensive enough for two or three at once. + +Now although, according to etiquette, I kept my position in the rear +of my superior officers, I had fully determined in my own mind, being +puffed up with previous success, to play second fiddle to no one, if +I could help it, this time. Samuela was decidedly of the same opinion; +indeed, I believe he would have been delighted to tackle a whole school +single-handed, while my crew were all willing and eager for the fight. +We had a long, tedious journey before we came up with them, the wind +being so light that even with the occasional assistance of the paddles +our progress was wretchedly slow. When at last we did get into their +water, and the mate's harpooner stood up to dart, his foot slipped, +and down he came with a clatter enough to scare a cachalot twenty +miles away. It gallied our friends effectually, sending them flying in +different directions at the top of their speed. But being some distance +astern of the other boats, one of the fish, in his headlong retreat, +rose for a final blow some six or seven fathoms away, passing us in +the opposite direction. His appearance was only momentary, yet in that +moment Samuela hurled his harpoon into the air, where it described a +beautiful parabola, coming down upon the disappearing monster's back +just as the sea was closing over it. Oh, it was a splendid dart, +worthy of the finest harpooner that ever lived! There was no time for +congratulations, however, for we spun round as on a pivot, and away we +went in the wake of that fellow at a great rate. I cast one look astern +to see whether the others had struck, but could see nothing of them; we +seemed to have sprung out of their ken in an instant. + +The speed of our friend was marvellous, but I comforted myself with the +knowledge that these animals usually run in circles--sometimes, it +is true, of enormous diameter, but seldom getting far away from their +starting-point. But as the time went on, and we seemed to fly over the +waves at undiminished speed, I began to think this whale might be the +exception necessary to prove the rule, so I got out the compass and +watched his course. Due east, not a degree to north or south of it, +straight as a bee to its hive. The ship was now far out of sight astern, +but I knew that keen eyes had been watching our movements from the +masthead, and that every effort possible would be made to keep the run +of us. The speed of our whale was not only great, but unflagging. He was +more like a machine than an animal capable of tiring; and though we did +our level best, at the faintest symptom of slackening, to get up closer +and lance him, it was for some time impossible. After, at a rough +estimate, running in a direct easterly course for over two hours, he +suddenly sounded, without having given us the ghost of a chance to "land +him one where he lived." Judging from his previous exertions, though, +it was hardly possible he would be able to stay down long, or get +very deep, as the strain upon these vast creatures at any depth is +astonishingly exhausting. After a longer stay below than usual, when +they have gone extra deep, they often arrive at the surface manifestly +"done up" for a time. Then, if the whaleman be active and daring, a +few well-directed strokes may be got in which will promptly settle the +business out of hand. + +Now, when my whale sounded he was to all appearance as frightened a +beast as one could wish--one who had run himself out endeavouring to +get away from his enemies, and as a last resource had dived into the +quietness below in the vain hope to get away. So I regarded him, making +up my mind to wait on him with diligence upon his arrival, and not allow +him to get breath before I had settled him. But when he did return, +there was a mighty difference in him. He seemed as if he had been +getting some tips on the subject from some school below where whales are +trained to hunt men; for his first move was to come straight for me +with a furious rush, carrying the war into the enemy's country with +a vengeance. It must be remembered that I was but young, and a +comparatively new hand at this sort of thing; so when I confess that I +felt more than a little scared at this sudden change in the tactics of +my opponent, I hope I shall be excused. Remembering, however, that all +our lives depended on keeping cool, I told myself that even if I was +frightened I must not go all to pieces, but compel myself to think and +act calmly, since I was responsible for others. If the animal had +not been in so blind a fury, I am afraid my task would have been much +harder; but he was mad, and his savage rushes were, though disquieting, +unsystematic and clumsy. It was essential, however, that he should not +be allowed to persist too long in his evil courses; for a whale learns +with amazing rapidity, developing such cunning in an hour or two that +all a man's smartness may be unable to cope with his newly acquired +experience. Happily, Samuela was perfectly unmoved. Like a machine, he +obeyed every gesture, every look even, swinging the boat "off" or "on" +the whale with such sweeping strokes of his mighty oar that she revolved +as if on a pivot, and encouraging the other chaps with his cheerful +cries and odd grimaces, so that the danger was hardly felt. During a +momentary lull in the storm, I took the opportunity to load my bomb-gun, +much as I disliked handling the thing, keeping my eye all the time +on the water around where I expected to see mine enemy popping up +murderously at any minute. Just as I had expected, when he rose, it was +very close, and on his back, with his jaw in the first biting position, +looking ugly as a vision of death. Finding us a little out of reach, +he rolled right over towards us, presenting as he did so the great +rotundity of his belly. We were not twenty feet away, and I snatched up +the gun, levelled it, and fired the bomb point-blank into his bowels. +Then all was blank. I do not even remember the next moment. A rush of +roaring waters, a fighting with fearful, desperate energy for air and +life, all in a hurried, flurried phantasmagoria about which there was +nothing clear except the primitive desire for life, life, life! Nor do +I know how long this struggle lasted, except that, in the nature of +things, it could not have been very long. + +When I returned to a consciousness of external things, I was for some +time perfectly still, looking at the sky, totally unable to realize what +had happened or where I was. Presently the smiling, pleasant face of +Samuela bent over me. Meeting my gratified look of recognition, he set up +a perfect yell of delight. "So glad, so glad you blonga life! No go Davy +Jonesy dis time, hay?" I put my hand out to help myself to a sitting +posture, and touched blubber. That startled me so that I sprung up as if +shot. Then I took in the situation at a glance. There were all my poor +fellows with me, stranded upon the top of our late antagonist, but +no sign of the boat to be seen. Bewildered at the state of affairs, I +looked appealingly from one to the other for an explanation. I got it +from Abner, who said, laconically, "When yew fired thet ole gun, I guess +it mus' have bin loaded fer bear, fer ye jest tumbled clar head over +heels backwards outen the boat. Et that very same moment I suspicion the +bomb busted in his belly, fer he went clean rampageous loony. He rolled +right over an' over to'rds us, n' befo' we c'd rightly see wat wuz +comin', we cu'dnt see anythin' 'tall; we wuz all grabbin' at nothin', +some'rs underneath the whale. When I come to the top, I lit eout fer the +fust thing I c'd see to lay holt of, which wuz old squarhead himself, +deader 'n pork. I guess thet ar bomb o' yourn kinder upset his +commissary department. Anyway, I climed up onto him, 'n bime-by the rest +ov us histed themselves alongside ov me. Sam Weller here; he cum last, +towin' you 'long with him. I don'no whar he foun' ye, but ye was very +near a goner, 'n's full o' pickle as ye c'd hold." I turned a grateful +eye upon my dusky harpooner, who had saved my life, but was now +apparently blissfully unconscious of having done anything meritorious. + +Behold us, then, a half-drowned row of scarecrows perched, like some new +species of dilapidated birds, upon the side of our late foe. The sun +was not so furiously hot as usual, for masses of rain-laden NIMBI were +filling the sky, so that we were comparatively free from the awful +roasting we might have expected: nor was our position as precarious for +a while as would be thought. True, we had only one harpoon, with its +still fast line, to hold on by; but the side of the whale was somehow +hollowed, so that, in spite of the incessant movement imparted to the +carcass by the swell, we sat fairly safe, with our feet in the said +hollow. We discussed the situation in all its bearings, unable to +extract more than the faintest gleam of hope from any aspect of the +case. The only reasonable chance we had was, that the skipper had almost +certainly taken our bearings, and would, we were sure, be anxiously +seeking us on the course thus indicated. Meanwhile, we were ravenously +hungry and thirsty. Samuela and Polly set to work with their +sheath-knives, and soon excavated a space in the blubber to enable them +to reach the meat. Then they cut off some good-sized junks, and divided +it up. It was not half bad; and as we chewed on the tough black fibre, +I could hardly help smiling as I thought how queer a Christmas dinner +we were having. But eating soon heightened our thirst, and our real +sufferings then began. We could eat very little once the want of drink +made itself felt. Hardly two hours had elapsed, though, before one +of the big-bellied clouds which bad been keeping the sun off us most +considerately emptied out upon us a perfect torrent of rain. It filled +the cavity in the whale's side in a twinkling; and though the water was +greasy, stained with blood, and vilely flavoured, it was as welcome a +drink as I have ever tasted. Thus fed, and with our thirst slaked, we +were able to take a more hopeful view of things while the prospect of +our being found seemed much more probable than it had done before the +rain fell. + +Still, we had to endure our pillory for a long while yet. The sharks and +birds began to worry us, especially the former, who in their eagerness +to get a portion of the blubber, fought, writhed and tore at the carcass +with tireless energy. Once, one of the smaller ones actually came +sliding up right into our hollow; but Samuela and Polly promptly +dispatched him with a cut throat, sending him back to encourage the +others. The present relieved us of most of their attentions for a short +time at least, as they eagerly divided the remains of their late comrade +among them. + +To while away the time we spun yarns--without much point, I am afraid; +and sung songs, albeit we did not feel much like singing--till after a +while our poor attempts at gaiety fizzled out like a damp match, leaving +us silent and depressed. The sun, which had been hidden for some time, +now came out again, his slanting beams revealing to us ominously the +flight of time and the near approach of night. Should darkness overtake +us in our present position, we all felt that saving us would need +the performance of a miracle; for in addition to the chances of the +accumulated gases within the carcass bursting it asunder, the unceasing +assault of the sharks made it highly doubtful whether they would not in +a few hours more have devoured it piecemeal. Already they had scooped +out some deep furrows in the solid blubber, making it easier to get hold +and tear off more, and their numbers were increasing so fast that the +surrounding sea was fairly alive with them. Lower and lower sank the +sun, deeper and darker grew the gloom upon our faces, till suddenly +Samuela leaped to his feet in our midst, and emitted a yell so +ear-piercing as to nearly deafen us. He saw the ship! Before two minutes +had passed we all saw her--God bless her!--coming down upon us like +some angelic messenger. There were no fears among us that we should be +overlooked. We knew full well how anxiously and keenly many pairs +of eyes had been peering over the sea in search of us, and we felt +perfectly sure they had sighted us long ago. On she came, gilded by the +evening glow, till she seemed glorified, moving in a halo of celestial +light, all her homeliness and clumsy build forgotten in what she then +represented to us. + +Never before or since has a ship looked like that, to me, nor can I ever +forget the thankfulness, the delight, the reverence, with which I once +more saw her approaching. Straight down upon us she bore, rounding to +within a cable's length, and dropping a boat simultaneously with her +windward sweep. They had no whale--well for us they had not. In five +minutes we were on board, while our late resting-place was being hauled +alongside with great glee. + +The captain shook hands with me cordially, pooh-poohing the loss of +the boat as an unavoidable incident of the trade, but expressing his +heart-felt delight at getting us all back safe. The whale we had killed +was ample compensation for the loss of several boats, though such was +the vigour with which the sharks were going for him, that it was deemed +advisable to cut in at once, working all night. We who had been rescued, +however, were summarily ordered below by the skipper, and forbidden, on +pain of his severe displeasure, to reappear until the following morning. +This great privilege we gladly availed ourselves of, awaking at daylight +quite well and fit, not a bit the worse for our queer experience of the +previous day. + +The whale proved a great acquisition, for although not nearly so large +as many we had caught, he was so amazingly rich in blubber that he +actually yielded twelve and a half tuns of oil, in spite of the heavy +toll taken of him by the hungry multitudes of sharks. In addition to the +oil, we were fortunate enough to secure a lump of ambergris, dislodged +perhaps by the explosion of my bomb in the animal's bowels. It was +nearly black, wax-like to the touch, and weighed seven pounds and a +half. At the current price, it would be worth about L200, so that, taken +altogether, the whale very nearly approached in value the largest one we +had yet caught. I had almost omitted to state that incorporated with the +substance of the ambergris were several of the horny cuttle-fish beaks, +which, incapable of being digested, had become in some manner part of +this peculiar product. + + + + + +CHAPTER XX. "HUMPBACKING" AT VAU VAU + +Another three weeks' cruising brought us to the end of the season on the +line, which had certainly not answered all our expectations, although +we had perceptibly increased the old barky's draught during our stay. +Whether from love of change or belief in the possibilities of a good +haul, I can hardly say, but Captain Count decided to make the best of +his way south, to the middle group of the "Friendly" Archipelago, +known as Vau Vau, the other portions being called Hapai and Tongataboo +respectively, for a season's "humpbacking." From all I could gather, we +were likely to have a good time there, so I looked forward to the visit +with a great deal of pleasurable anticipation. + +We were bound to make a call at Vau Vau, in any case, to discharge our +Kanakas shipped at Honolulu, although I fervently hoped to be able to +keep my brave harpooner Samuela. So when I heard of our destination, +I sounded him cautiously as to his wishes in the matter, finding that, +while he was both pleased with and proud of his position on board, +he was longing greatly for his own orange grove and the embraces of a +certain tender "fafine" that he averred was there awaiting him. With +such excellent reasons for his leaving us, I could but forbear to +persuade him, sympathizing with him too deeply to wish him away from +such joys as he described to me. + +So we bade farewell to the line grounds, and commenced another stretch +to the south, another milestone, as it were, on the long road home. +Prosaic and uneventful to the last degree was our passage, the only +incident worth recording being our "gamming" of the PASSAMAQUODDY, +of Martha's Vineyard, South Sea whaler; eighteen months out, with one +thousand barrels of sperm oil on board. We felt quite veterans alongside +of her crew, and our yarns laid over theirs to such an extent that they +were quite disgusted at their lack of experience. Some of them had known +our late skipper, but none of them had a good word for him, the old +maxim, "Speak nothing but good of the dead," being most flagrantly set +at nought. One of her crew was a Whitechapelian, who had been roving +about the world for a good many years. + +Amongst other experiences, he had, after "jumping the bounty" two +or three times, found himself a sergeant in the Federal Army before +Gettysburg. During that most bloody battle, he informed me that a "Reb" +drew a bead on him at about a dozen yards' distance, and fired, He said +he felt just as if somebody had punched him in the chest, and knocked +him flat on his back on top of a sharp stone--no pain at all, nor any +further recollection of what had happened, until he found himself at the +base, in hospital. When the surgeons came to examine him for the bullet, +they found that it had struck the broad brass plate of his cross-belt +fairly in the middle, penetrating it and shattering his breast bone. But +after torturing him vilely with the probe, they were about to give up +the search in despair, when he told them he felt a pain in his back. +Examining the spot indicated by him, they found a bullet just beneath +the skin, which a touch with the knife allowed to tumble out. Further +examination revealed the strange fact that the bullet, after striking +his breast-bone, had glanced aside and travelled round his body just +beneath the skin, without doing him any further harm. In proof of his +story, he showed me the two scars and the perforated buckle-plate. + +At another time, being in charge of a picket of Germans, he and his +command were captured by a party of Confederates, who haled him before +their colonel, a southern gentleman of the old school. In the course of +his interrogation by the southern officer, he was asked where he hailed +from. He replied, "London, England." "Then," said the colonel, "how is +it you find yourself fighting for these accursed Yankees?" The cockney +faltered out some feeble excuse or another, which his captor cut short +by saying, "I've a great respect for the English, and consequently I'll +let you go this time. But if ever I catch you again, you're gone up. +As for those d-----d Dutchmen, they'll be strung up inside of five +minutes." And they were. + +So with yarn, song, and dance, the evening passed pleasantly away; +while the two old hookers jogged amicably along side by side, like two +market-horses whose drivers are having a friendly crack. Along about +midnight we exchanged crews again, and parted with many expressions of +good-will--we to the southward, she to the eastward, for some particular +preserve believed in by her commander. + +In process of time we made the land of Vau Vau, a picturesque, densely +wooded, and in many places precipitous, group of islands, the approach +being singularly free from dangers in the shape of partly hidden reefs. +Long and intricate were the passages we threaded, until we finally came +to anchor in a lovely little bay perfectly sheltered from all winds. We +moored, within a mile of a dazzling white beach, in twelve fathoms. A +few native houses embowered in orange and cocoa-nut trees showed here +and there, while the two horns of the bay were steep-to, and covered +with verdure almost down to the water's edge. The anchor was hardly down +before a perfect fleet of canoes flocked around us, all carrying the +familiar balancing outrigger, without which those narrow dugouts cannot +possibly keep upright. Their occupants swarmed on board, laughing and +playing like so many children, and with all sorts of winning gestures +and tones besought our friendship. "You my flem?" was the one question +which all asked; but what its import might be we could not guess for +some time. By-and-by it appeared that when once you had agreed to accept +a native for your "flem," or friend, he from henceforward felt in duty +bound to attend to all your wants which it lay within his power to +supply. This important preliminary settled, fruit and provisions of +various kinds appeared as if by magic. Huge baskets of luscious oranges, +massive bunches of gold and green bananas, clusters of green cocoa-nuts, +conch-shells full of chillies, fowls loudly protesting against their +hard fate, gourds full of eggs, and a few vociferous swine--all came +tumbling on board in richest profusion, and, strangest thing of all, +not a copper was asked in return. I might have as truly said nothing +was asked, since money must have been useless here. Many women came +alongside, but none climbed on board. Surprised at this, I asked Samuela +the reason, as soon as I could disengage him for a few moments from the +caresses of his friends. He informed me that the ladies' reluctance to +favour us with their society was owing to their being in native dress, +which it is punishable to appear in among white men, the punishment +consisting of a rather heavy fine. Even the men and boys, I noticed, +before they ventured to climb on board, stayed a while to put on +trousers, or what did duty for those useful articles of dress. At any +rate, they were all clothed, not merely enwrapped with a fold or two of +"tapa," the native bark-cloth, but made awkward and ugly by dilapidated +shirts and pants. + +She was a busy ship for the rest of that day. The anchor down, sails +furled and decks swept, the rest of the time was our own, and high jinks +were the result. The islanders were amiability personified, merry as +children, nor did I see or hear one quarrelsome individual among them. +While we were greedily devouring the delicious fruit, which was piled on +deck in mountainous quantities, they encouraged us, telling us that the +trees ashore were breaking down under their loads, and what a pity it +was that there were so few to eat such bountiful supplies. + +We were, it appeared, the first whale-ship that had anchored there that +year, and, in that particular bay where we lay, no vessel had moored for +over two years. An occasional schooner from Sydney called at the "town" +about ten miles away, where the viceroy's house was, and at the present +time of speaking one of Godeffroi's Hamburg ships was at anchor there, +taking in an accumulation of copra from her agent's store. But the +natives all spoke of her with a shrug--"No like Tashman. Tashman no +good." Why, I could not ascertain. + +Our Kanakas had promised to remain with us till our departure for +the south, so, hard as it seemed to them, they were not allowed to go +ashore, in case they might not come back, and leave us short-handed. +But as their relatives and friends could visit them whenever they felt +inclined, the restriction did not hurt them much. The next day, being +Sunday, all hands were allowed liberty to go ashore by turns (except the +Kanakas), with strict injunctions to molest no one, but to behave as if +in a big town guarded by policemen. As no money could be spent, none was +given, and, best of all, it was impossible to procure any intoxicating +liquor. + +Our party got ashore about 9.30, but not a soul was visible either on +the beach or in the sun-lit paths which led through the forest inland. +Here and there a house, with doors wide open, stood in its little +cleared space, silent and deserted. It was like a country without +inhabitants. Presently, however, a burst of melody arrested us, and +borne upon the scented breeze came oh, so sweetly!--the well-remembered +notes of "Hollingside." Hurriedly getting behind a tree, I let myself +go, and had a perfectly lovely, soul-refreshing cry. Reads funny, +doesn't it? Sign of weakness perhaps. But when childish memories come +back upon one torrent-like in the swell of a hymn or the scent of the +hawthorn, it seems to me that the flood-gates open without you having +anything to do with it. When I was a little chap in the Lock Chapel +choir, before the evil days came, that tune was my favourite; and when +I heard it suddenly come welling up out of the depths of the forest, +my heart just stood still for a moment, and then the tears came. Queer +idea, perhaps, to some people; but I do not know when I enjoyed myself +so much as I did just then, except when a boy of sixteen home from a +voyage, and strolling along the Knightsbridge Road, I "happened" into +the Albert Hall. I did not in the least know what was coming; the +notices on the bills did not mean anything to me; but I paid my +shilling, and went up into the gallery. I had hardly edged myself into +a corner by the refreshment-stall, when a great breaker of sound +caught me, hurled me out of time, thought, and sense in one intolerable +ecstasy--"For unto us a Child is born; unto us a Son is given"--again +and again--billows and billows of glory. I gasped for breath, shook like +one in an ague fit; the tears ran down in a continuous stream; while +people stared amazed at me, thinking, I suppose, that I was another +drunken sailor. Well, I was drunk, helplessly intoxicated, but not +with drink, with something Divine, untellable, which, coming upon me +unprepared, simply swept me away with it into a heaven of delight, to +which only tears could testify. + +But I am in the bush, whimpering over the tones of "Hollingside." As +soon as I had pulled myself together a bit, we went on again in the +direction of the sound, Presently we came to a large clearing, in the +middle of which stood a neat wooden, pandanus-thatched church. There +were no doors or windows to it, just a roof supported upon posts, but a +wide verandah ran all round, upon the edge of which we seated ourselves; +for the place was full--full to suffocation, every soul within miles, +I should think, being there. No white man was present, but the service, +which was a sort of prayer-meeting, went with a swing and go that +was wonderful to see. There was no perfunctory worship here; no one +languidly enduring it because it was "the right sort of thing to show up +at, you know;" but all were in earnest, terribly in earnest. When they +sang, it behoved us to get away to a little distance, for the vigour of +the voices, unless mellowed by distance, made the music decidedly harsh. +Every one was dressed in European clothing--the women in neat calico +gowns; but the men, nearly all of them, in woollen shirts, pilot-coats, +and trousers to match, and sea-boots! Whew! it nearly stifled me to look +at them. The temperature was about ninety degrees in the shade, with +hardly a breath of air stirring, yet those poor people, from some +mistaken notion of propriety, were sweating in torrents under that +Arctic rig. However they could worship, I do not know! At last the +meeting broke up. The men rushed out, tore off their coats, trousers, +and shirts, and flung themselves panting upon the grass, mother-naked, +except for a chaplet of cocoanut leaves, formed by threading them on a +vine-tendril, and hanging round the waist. + +Squatting by the side of my "flem," whom I had recognized, I asked +him why ever he outraged all reason by putting on such clothes in +this boiling weather. He looked at me pityingly for a moment before he +replied, "You go chapella Belitani? No put bes' close on top?" "Yes," +I said; "but in hot weather put on thin clothes; cold weather, put on +thick ones." "S'pose no got more?" he said, meaning, I presumed, more +than the one suit. "Well," I said, "more better stop 'way than look +like big fool, boil all away, same like duff in pot. You savvy duff?" He +smiled a wide comprehensive smile, but looked very solemn again, +saying directly, "You no go chapella; you no mishnally. No mishnally +[missionary=godly]; very bad. Me no close; no go chapella; vely bad. +Evelly tangata, evelly fafine, got close all same papalang [every man +and woman has clothes like a white man]; go chapella all day Sunday." +That this was no figure of speech I proved fully that day, for I declare +that the recess between any of the services never lasted more than an +hour. Meanwhile the worshippers did not return to their homes, for in +many cases they had journeyed twenty or thirty miles, but lay about +in the verdure, refreshing themselves with fruit, principally the +delightful green cocoa-nuts, which furnish meat and drink both--cool and +refreshing in the extreme, as well as nourishing. + +We were all heartily welcome to whatever was going, but there was +a general air of restraint, a fear of breaking the Sabbath, which +prevented us from trespassing too much upon the hospitality of these +devout children of the sun. So we contented ourselves with strolling +through the beautiful glades and woods, lying down, whenever we felt +weary, under the shade of some spreading orange tree loaded with golden +fruit, and eating our fill, or rather eating until the smarting of our +lips warned us to desist. Here was a land where, apparently, all people +were honest, for we saw a great many houses whose owners were absent, +not one of which was closed, although many had a goodly store of such +things as a native might be supposed to covet. At last, not being able +to rid ourselves of the feeling that we were doing something wrong, the +solemn silence and Sundayfied air of the whole region seeming to forbid +any levity even in the most innocent manner, we returned on board again, +wonderfully impressed with what we had seen, but wondering what would +have happened if some of the ruffianly crowds composing the crews of +many ships had been let loose upon this fair island. + +In the evening we lowered a stage over the bows to the water's edge, and +had a swimming-match, the water being perfectly delightful, after the +great heat of the day, in its delicious freshness; and so to bunk, well +pleased indeed with our first Sunday in Vau Vau. + +I have no doubt whatever that some of the gentry who swear at large +about the evils of missionaries would have been loud in their disgust at +the entire absence of drink and debauchery, and the prevalence of what +they would doubtless characterize as adjective hypocrisy on the part of +the natives; but no decent man could help rejoicing at the peace, the +security, and friendliness manifested on every hand, nor help awarding +unstinted praise to whoever had been the means of bringing about so +desirable a state of things. I felt that their Sabbatarianism was +carried to excess; that they would have been better, not worse, for a +little less church, and a little more innocent fun; but ten thousand +times better thus than such scenes of lust let loose and abandoned +animalism as we witnessed at Honolulu. What pleased me mightily was +the absence of the white man with his air of superiority and sleek +overlordship. All the worship, all the management of affairs, was +entirely in the hands of the natives themselves, and excellently well +did they manage everything. + +I shall never forget once going ashore in a somewhat similar place, but +very far distant, one Sunday morning, to visit the mission station. It +was a Church mission, and a very handsome building the church was. By +the side of it stood the parsonage, a beautiful bungalow, nestling in a +perfect paradise of tropical flowers. The somewhat intricate service was +conducted, and the sermon preached, entirely by natives--very creditably +too. After service I strolled into the parsonage to see the reverend +gentleman in charge, whom I found supporting his burden in a long chair, +with a tall glass of brandy and soda within easy reach, a fine cigar +between his lips, and a late volume of Ouida's in his hand. All very +pleasant and harmless, no doubt, but hardly reconcilable with the ideal +held up in missionary magazines. Yet I have no doubt whatever that this +gentleman would have been heartily commended by the very men who can +hardly find words harsh enough to express their opinion of missionaries +of the stamp of Paton, Williams, Moffat, and Mackenzie. + +Well, it is highly probable--nay, almost certain, that I shall be +accused of drawing an idyllic picture of native life from first +impressions, which, if I had only had sufficient subsequent experience +among the people, I should have entirely altered. All I can say is, that +although I did not live among them ashore, we had a number of them on +board; we lay in the island harbour five months, during which I was +ashore nearly every day, and from habit I observed them very closely; +yet I cannot conscientiously alter one syllable of what I have written +concerning them. Bad men and women there were, of course, to be +found--as where not?--but the badness, in whatever form, was not allowed +to flaunt itself, and was so sternly discountenanced by public (entirely +native) opinion, that it required a good deal of interested seeking to +find. + +But after all this chatter about my amiable friends, I find myself +in danger of forgetting the purpose of our visit. We lost no time in +preparation, since whaling of whatever sort is conducted in these ships +on precisely similar lines, but on Monday morning, at daybreak, after a +hurried breakfast, lowered all boats and commenced the campaign. We were +provided with boxes--one for each boat--containing a light luncheon, but +no ordered meal, because it was not considered advisable to in any way +hamper the boat's freedom to chase. Still, in consideration of its being +promptly dumped overboard on attacking a whale, a goodly quantity of +fruit was permitted in the boats. + +In the calm beauty of the pearly dawn, with a gentle hush over all +nature, the lofty, tree-clad hills reflected with startling fidelity in +the glassy, many-coloured waters, the only sound audible the occasional +cra-a-ake of the advance-guard of a flight of fruit-bats (PECA) homeward +from their nocturnal depredations, we shipped our oars and started, +pulling to a certain position whence we could see over an immense area. +Immediately upon rounding the horn of our sheltered bay, the fresh +breeze of the south-east trades met us right on end with a vigour that +made a ten-mile steady pull against it somewhat of a breather. Arriving +at the station indicated by the chief, we set sail, and, separating as +far as possible without losing sight of each other, settled down for +the day's steady cruise. Anything more delightful than that excursion +to those who love seashore scenery combined with boat-sailing would be +difficult to name. Every variety of landscape, every shape of strait, +bay, or estuary, reefs awash, reefs over which we could sail, ablaze +with loveliness inexpressible; a steady, gentle, caressing breeze, and +overhead one unvarying canopy of deepest blue. Sometimes, when skirting +the base of some tremendous cliffs, great caution was necessary, for at +one moment there would obtain a calm, death-like in its stillness; the +next, down through a canyon cleaving the mountain to the water's edge +would come rushing with a shrill howl, a blast fierce enough to almost +lift us out of the water. Away we would scud with flying sheets dead +before it, in a smother of spray, but would hardly get full way on her +before it was gone, leaving us in the same hush as before, only a dark +patch on the water far to leeward marking its swift rush. These little +diversions gave us no uneasiness, for it was an unknown thing to make a +sheet fast in one of our boats, so that a puff of wind never caught us +unprepared. + +On that first day we seemed to explore such a variety of stretches +of water that one would hardly have expected there could be any more +discoveries to make in that direction. Nevertheless, each day's cruise +subsequently revealed to us some new nook or other, some quiet haven or +pretty passage between islands that, until closely approached, looked +like one. When, at sunset, we returned to the ship, not having seen +anything like a spout, I felt like one who had been in a dream, the +day's cruise having surpassed all my previous experience. Yet it was but +the precursor of many such. Oftentimes I think of those halcyon days, +with a sigh of regret that they can never more be renewed to me; but I +rejoice to think that nothing can rob me of the memory of them. + +Much to the discomfort of the skipper, it was four days before a +solitary spout was seen, and then it was so nearly dark that before the +fish could be reached it was impossible to distinguish her whereabouts. +A careful bearing was taken of the spot, in the hope that she might be +lingering in the vicinity next morning, and we hastened on board. + +Before it was fairly light we lowered, and paddled as swiftly as +possible to the bay where we had last seen the spout overnight. When +near the spot we rested on our paddles a while, all hands looking out +with intense eagerness for the first sign of the whale's appearance. +There was a strange feeling among us of unlawfulness and stealth, as +of ambushed pirates waiting to attack some unwary merchantman, or +highwaymen waylaying a fat alderman on a country road. We spoke +in whispers, for the morning was so still that a voice raised but +ordinarily would have reverberated among the rocks which almost overhung +us, multiplied indefinitely. A turtle rose ghost-like to the surface +at my side, lifting his queer head, and, surveying us with stony gaze, +vanished as silently as he came. + +What a sigh! One looked at the other inquiringly, but the repetition of +that long expiration satisfied us all that it was the placid breathing +of the whale we sought somewhere close at hand, The light grew rapidly +better, and we strained our eyes in every direction to discover the +whereabouts of our friend, but, for some minutes without result. There +was a ripple just audible, and away glided the mate's boat right for the +near shore. Following him with our eyes, we almost immediately beheld a +pale, shadowy column of white, shimmering against the dark mass of the +cliff not a quarter of a mile away. Dipping our paddles with the utmost +care, we made after the chief, almost holding our breath. His harpooner +rose, darted once, twice, then gave a yell of triumph that ran +re-echoing all around in a thousand eerie vibrations, startling the +drowsy PECA in myriads from where they hung in inverted clusters on the +trees above. But, for all the notice taken by the whale, she might never +have been touched. Close nestled to her side was a youngling of not +more, certainly, than five days old, which sent up its baby-spout +every now and then about two feet into the air. One long, wing-like fin +embraced its small body, holding it close to the massive breast of +the tender mother, whose only care seemed to be to protect her young, +utterly regardless of her own pain and danger. If sentiment were ever +permitted to interfere with such operations as ours, it might well have +done so now; for while the calf continually sought to escape from the +enfolding fin, making all sorts of puny struggles in the attempt, the +mother scarcely moved from her position, although streaming with blood +from a score of wounds. Once, indeed, as a deep-searching thrust +entered her very vitals, she raised her massy flukes high in air with +an apparently involuntary movement of agony; but even in that dire +throe she remembered the possible danger to her young one, and laid the +tremendous weapon as softly down upon the water as if it were a feather +fan. + +So in the most perfect quiet, with scarcely a writhe, nor any sign of +flurry, she died, holding the calf to her side until her last +vital spark had fled, and left it to a swift despatch with a single +lance-thrust. No slaughter of a lamb ever looked more like murder. Nor, +when the vast bulk and strength of the animal was considered, could a +mightier example have been given of the force and quality of maternal +love. + +The whole business was completed in half an hour from the first sight +of her, and by the mate's hand alone, none of the other boats needing +to use their gear. As soon as she was dead, a hole was bored through the +lips, into which a tow-line was secured, the two long fins were lashed +close into the sides of the animal by an encircling line, the tips of +the flukes were cut off, and away we started for the ship. We had an +eight-mile tow in the blazing sun, which we accomplished in a little +over eight, hours, arriving at the vessel just before two p.m. News of +our coming had preceded us, and the whole native population appeared to +be afloat to make us welcome. The air rang again with their shouts of +rejoicing, for our catch represented to them a gorgeous feast, such as +they had not indulged in for many a day. The flesh of the humpbacked +whale is not at all bad, being but little inferior to that of the +porpoise; so that, as these people do not despise even the coarse rank +flesh of the cachalot, their enthusiasm was natural. Their offers of +help were rather embarrassing to us, as we could find little room for +any of them in the boats, and the canoes only got in our way. Unable to +assist us, they vented their superfluous energies on the whale in the +most astounding aquatic antics imaginable--diving under it; climbing +on to it; pushing and rolling each other headlong over its broad back; +shrieking all the while with the frantic, uncontrollable laughter of +happy children freed from all restraint. Men, women, and children all +mixed in this wild, watery spree; and as to any of them getting drowned, +the idea was utterly absurd. + +When we got it alongside, and prepared to cut in, all the chaps were +able to have a rest, there were so many eager volunteers to man the +windlass, not only willing but, under the able direction of their +compatriots belonging to our crew, quite equal to the work of heaving +in blubber. All their habitual indolence was cast aside. Toiling like +Trojans, they made the old windlass rattle again as they spun the brakes +up and down, every blanket-piece being hailed with a fresh volley of +eldritch shrieks, enough to alarm a deaf and dumb asylum. + +With such ample aid, it was, as may be supposed a brief task to skin our +prize, although the strange arrangement of the belly blubber caused +us to lift some disappointing lengths. This whale has the blubber +underneath the body lying in longitudinal corrugations, which, when +hauled off the carcass at right angles to their direction, stretch +out flat to four or five times their normal area. Thus, when the +cutting-blocks had reached their highest limit, and the piece was +severed from the body, the folds flew together again leaving dangling +aloft but a miserable square of some four or five feet, instead of +a fine "blanket" of blubber twenty by five. Along the edges of these +RUGAE, as also upon the rim of the lower jaw, abundance of limpets and +barnacles had attached themselves, some of the former large as a horse's +hoof, and causing prodigious annoyance to the toiling carpenter, whose +duty it was to keep the spades ground. It was no unusual thing for a +spade to be handed in with two or three gaps in its edge half an inch +deep, where they had accidentally come across one of those big pieces +of flinty shell, undistinguishable from the grey substance of the belly +blubber. + +But, in spite of these drawbacks, in less than ninety minutes the last +cut was reached, the vertebra severed, and away went the great mass of +meat, in tow of countless canoes, to an adjacent point, where, in eager +anticipation, fires were already blazing for the coming cookery. An +enormous number of natives had gathered from far and near, late arrivals +continually dropping in from all points of the compass with breathless +haste. No danger of going short need have troubled them, for, large as +were their numbers, the supply was evidently fully equal to all demands. +All night long the feast proceeded, and, even when morning dawned, busy +figures were still discernible coming and going between the reduced +carcass and the fires, as if determined to make an end of it before +their operations ceased. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXI. PROGRESS OF THE "HUMPBACK" SEASON + +It will probably be inferred from the foregoing paragraph that we were +little troubled with visits from the natives next day; but it would be +doing them an injustice if I omitted to state that our various "flems" +put in an appearance as usual with their daily offerings of fruit, +vegetables, etc. They all presented a somewhat jaded and haggard look, +as of men who had dined not wisely but too well, nor did the odour of +stale whale-meat that clung to them add to their attractions. Repentance +for excesses or gluttony did not seem to trouble them, for they +evidently considered it would have been a sin not to take with both +hands the gifts the gods had so bountifully provided. Still, they did +not stay long, feeling, no doubt, sore need of a prolonged rest after +their late arduous exertions; so, after affectionate farewells, they +left us again to our greasy task of trying-out. + +The cow proved exceedingly fat, making us, though by no means a large +specimen, fully fifty barrels of oil. The whalebone (baleen) was so +short as to be not worth the trouble of curing, so, with the exception +of such pieces as were useful to the "scrimshoners" for ornamenting +their nicknacks, it was not preserved. On the evening of the third +day the work was so far finished that we were able to go ashore for +clothes-washing, which necessary process was accompanied with a good +deal of fun and hilarity. In the morning cruising was resumed again. + +For a couple of days we met with no success, although we had a very +aggravating chase after some smart bulls we fell in with, to our mutual +astonishment, just as we rounded a point of the outermost island. They +were lazily sunning themselves close under the lee of the cliffs, which +at that point were steep-to, having a depth of about twenty fathoms +close alongside. A fresh breeze was blowing, so we came round the point +at a great pace, being almost among them before they had time to escape. +They went away gaily along the land, not attempting to get seaward, +we straining every nerve to get alongside of them. Whether they were +tantalizing us or not, I cannot say, but certainly it looked like it. In +spite of their well-known speed, we were several times so close in their +wake that the harpooners loosed the tacks of the jibs to get a clear +shot; but as they did so the nimble monsters shot ahead a length or +two, leaving us just out of reach. It was a fine chase while it lasted, +though annoying; yet one could hardly help feeling amused at the way +they wallowed along--just like a school of exaggerated porpoises. At +last, after nearly two hours of the fun, they seemed to have had enough +of it, and with one accord headed seaward at a greatly accelerated pace, +as who should say, "Well, s' long, boys; company's very pleasant and +all that, but we've got important business over at Fiji, and can't stay +fooling around here any longer." In a quarter of an hour they were out +of sight, leaving us disgusted and outclassed pursuers sneaking back +again to shelter, feeling very small. Not that we could have had much +hope of success under the circumstances, knowing the peculiar habits of +the humpback and the almost impossibility of competing with him in the +open sea; but they had lured us on to forget all these things in the +ardour of the chase, and then exposed our folly. + +Then ensued a week or two of uneventful cruising, broken only by +the capture of a couple of cows--one just after the fruitless chase +mentioned above, and one several days later. These events, though +interesting enough to us, were marked by no such deviation from the +ordinary course as to make them worthy of special attention; nor do I +think that the cold-blooded killing of a cow-whale, who dies patiently +endeavouring to protect her young, is a subject that lends itself to +eulogium. + +However, just when the delightful days were beginning to pall upon us, +a real adventure befell us, which, had we been attending strictly to +business, we should not have encountered. For a week previous we had +been cruising constantly without ever seeing a spout, except those +belonging to whales out at sea, whither we knew it was folly to +follow them. We tried all sorts of games to while away the time, which +certainly did hang heavy, the most popular of which was for the whole +crew of the boat to strip, and, getting overboard, be towed along at the +ends of short warps, while I sailed her. It was quite mythological--a +sort of rude reproduction of Neptune and his attendant Tritons. At last, +one afternoon as we were listlessly lolling (half asleep, except the +look-out man) across the thwarts, we suddenly came upon a gorge between +two cliffs that we must have passed before several times unnoticed. At +a certain angle it opened, disclosing a wide sheet of water, extending a +long distance ahead. I put the helm up, and we ran through the passage, +finding it about a boat's length in width and several fathoms deep, +though overhead the cliffs nearly came together in places. Within, the +scene was very beautiful, but not more so than many similar ones we had +previously witnessed. Still, as the place was new to us, our languor was +temporarily dispelled, and we paddled along, taking in every feature of +the shores with keen eyes that let nothing escape. After we had gone +on in this placid manner for maybe an hour, we suddenly came to a +stupendous cliff--that is, for those parts--rising almost sheer from the +water for about a thousand feet. Of itself it would not have arrested +our attention, but at its base was a semicircular opening, like the +mouth of a small tunnel. This looked alluring, so I headed the boat for +it, passing through a deep channel between two reefs which led straight +to the opening. There was ample room for us to enter, as we had lowered +the mast; but just as we were passing through, a heave of the unnoticed +swell lifted us unpleasantly near the crown of this natural arch. +Beneath us, at a great depth, the bottom could be dimly discerned, the +water being of the richest blue conceivable, which the sun, striking +down through, resolved into some most marvellous colour-schemes in the +path of its rays. A delicious sense of coolness, after the fierce heat +outside, saluted us as we entered a vast hall, whose roof rose to a +minimum height of forty feet, but in places could not be seen at all. +A sort of diffused light, weak, but sufficient to reveal the general +contour of the place, existed, let in, I supposed, through some unseen +crevices in the roof or walls. At first, of course, to our eyes fresh +from the fierce glare outside, the place seemed wrapped in impenetrable +gloom, and we dared not stir lest we should run into some hidden +danger. Before many minutes, however, the gloom lightened as our pupils +enlarged, so that, although the light was faint, we could find our way +about with ease. We spoke in low tones, for the echoes were so numerous +and resonant that even a whisper gave back from those massy walls in a +series of recurring hisses, as if a colony of snakes had been disturbed. + +We paddled on into the interior of this vast cave, finding everywhere +the walls rising sheer from the silent, dark waters, not a ledge or a +crevice where one might gain foothold. Indeed, in some places there was +a considerable overhang from above, as if a great dome whose top was +invisible sprang from some level below the water. We pushed ahead until +the tiny semicircle of light through which we had entered was only +faintly visible; and then, finding there was nothing to be seen except +what we were already witnessing, unless we cared to go on into the thick +darkness, which extended apparently into the bowels of the mountain, we +turned and started to go back. Do what we would, we could not venture to +break the solemn hush that surrounded us as if we were shut within the +dome of some vast cathedral in the twilight, So we paddled noiselessly +along for the exit, till suddenly an awful, inexplicable roar set all +our hearts thumping fit to break our bosoms. Really, the sensation was +most painful, especially as we had not the faintest idea whence the +noise came or what had produced it. Again it filled that immense cave +with its thunderous reverberations; but this time all the sting +was taken out of it, as we caught sight of its author. A goodly +bull-humpback had found his way in after us, and the sound of his spout, +exaggerated a thousand times in the confinement of that mighty cavern, +had frightened us all so that we nearly lost our breath. So far, so +good; but, unlike the old nigger, though we were "doin' blame well," we +did not "let blame well alone." The next spout that intruder gave, +he was right alongside of us. This was too much for the semi-savage +instincts of my gallant harpooner, and before I had time to shout a +caution he had plunged his weapon deep into old Blowhard's broad back. + +I should like to describe what followed, but, in the first place, I +hardly know; and, in the next, even had I been cool and collected, my +recollections would sound like the ravings of a fevered dream. For of +all the hideous uproars conceivable, that was, I should think, about the +worst. The big mammal seemed to have gone frantic with the pain of his +wound, the surprise of the attack, and the hampering confinement in +which he found himself. His tremendous struggles caused such a commotion +that our position could only be compared to that of men shooting Niagara +in a cylinder at night. How we kept afloat, I do not know. Some one +had the gumption to cut the line, so that by the radiation of the +disturbance we presently found ourselves close to the wall, and trying +to hold the boat in to it with our finger-tips. Would he never be quiet? +we thought, as the thrashing, banging, and splashing still went on with +unfailing vigour. At last, in, I suppose, one supreme effort to escape, +he leaped clear of the water like a salmon. There was a perceptible +hush, during which we shrank together like unfledged chickens on a +frosty night; then, in a never-to-be-forgotten crash that ought to +have brought down the massy roof, that mountainous carcass fell. The +consequent violent upheaval of the water should have smashed the boat +against the rocky walls, but that final catastrophe was mercifully +spared us. I suppose the rebound was sufficient to keep us a safe +distance off. + +A perfect silence succeeded, during which we sat speechless, awaiting +a resumption of the clamour. At last Abner broke the heavy silence by +saying, "I doan' see the do'way any mo' at all, sir." He was right. The +tide had risen, and that half-moon of light had disappeared, so that we +were now prisoners for many hours, it not being at all probable that we +should be able to find our way out during the night ebb. Well, we +were not exactly children, to be afraid of the dark, although there is +considerable difference between the velvety darkness of a dungeon and +the clear, fresh night of the open air. Still, as long as that beggar of +a whale would only keep quiet or leave the premises, we should be fairly +comfortable. We waited and waited until an hour had passed, and then +came to the conclusion that our friend was either dead or gone out, as +he gave no sign of his presence. + +That being settled, we anchored the boat, and lit pipes, preparatory to +passing as comfortable a night as might be under the circumstances, the +only thing troubling me being the anxiety of the skipper on our behalf. +Presently the blackness beneath was lit up by a wide band of phosphoric +light, shed in the wake of no ordinary-sized fish, probably an immense +shark. Another and another followed in rapid succession, until the +depths beneath were all ablaze with brilliant foot-wide ribands of green +glare, dazzling to the eye and bewildering to the brain. Occasionally, +a gentle splash or ripple alongside, or a smart tap on the bottom of +the boat, warned us how thick the concourse was that had gathered below. +Until that weariness which no terror is proof against set in, sleep was +impossible, nor could we keep our anxious gaze from that glowing inferno +beneath, where one would have thought all the population of Tartarus +were holding high revel. Mercifully, at last we sank into a fitful +slumber, though fully aware of the great danger of our position. One +upward rush of any of those ravening monsters, happening to strike the +frail shell of our boat, and a few fleeting seconds would have sufficed +for our obliteration as if we had never been. + +But the terrible night passed away, and once more we saw the tender, +irridescent light stream into that abode of dread. As the day +strengthened, we were able to see what was going on below, and a grim +vision it presented. The water was literally alive with sharks of +enormous size, tearing with never ceasing energy at the huge carcass of +the whale lying on the bottom, who had met his fate in a singular but +not unheard-of way. At that last titanic effort of his he had rushed +downward with such terrific force that, striking his head on the bottom, +he had broken his neck. I felt very grieved that we had lost the chance +of securing him; but it was perfectly certain that before we could get +help to raise him, all that would be left of his skeleton would be quite +valueless to us. So with such patience as we could command we waited +near the entrance until the receding ebb made it possible for us to +emerge once more into the blessed light of day. I was horrified at the +haggard, careworn appearance of my crew, who had all, excepting the two +Kanakas, aged perceptibly during that night of torment. But we lost +no time in getting back to the ship, where I fully expected a severe +wigging for the scrape my luckless curiosity had led me into. The +captain, however, was very kind, expressing his pleasure at seeing us +all safe back again, although he warned me solemnly against similar +investigations in future. A hearty meal and a good rest did wonders in +removing the severe effects of our adventure, so that by next morning we +were all fit and ready for the days work again. + +It certainly seemed as if I was in for a regular series of troubles. +After cruising till nearly two p.m., we fell in with the mate's boat, +and were sailing quietly along side by side, when we suddenly rounded a +point and ran almost on top of a bull-humpback that was basking in the +beautiful sunshine. The mate's harpooner, a wonderfully smart fellow, +was not so startled as to lose his chance, getting an iron well home +before the animal realized what had befallen him. We had a lovely fight, +lasting over an hour, in which all the marvellous agility with which +this whale is gifted was exerted to the full in order to make his +escape. But with the bottom not twenty fathoms away, we were sure of +him. With all his supple smartness, he had none of the dogged savagery +of the cachalot about him, nor did we feel any occasion to beware of +his rushes, rather courting them, so as to finish the game as quickly as +possible. + +He was no sooner dead than we hurried to secure him, and had actually +succeeded in passing the tow-line through his lips, when, in the +trifling interval that passed while we were taking the line aft to begin +towing, he started to sink. Of course it was, "let go all!" If you +can only get the slightest way on a whale of this kind, you are almost +certain to be able to keep him afloat, but once he begins to sink you +cannot stop him. Down he went, till full twenty fathoms beneath us he +lay comfortably on the reef, while we looked ruefully at one another. +We had no gear with us fit to raise him, and we were ten miles from the +ship; evening was at hand, so our prospects of doing anything that night +were faint. + +However, the mate decided to start off for home at once, leaving us +there, but promising to send back a boat as speedily as possible with +provisions and gear for the morning. There was a stiff breeze blowing, +and he was soon out of sight; but we were very uncomfortable. The boat, +of course, rode like a duck, but we were fully exposed to the open sea; +and the mighty swell of the Pacific, rolling in over those comparatively +shallow grounds, sometimes looked dangerously like breaking. Still, it +was better than the cave, and there was a good prospect of supper. Long +before we expected her, back came the boat, bringing bountiful provision +of yams, cold pork and fruit--a regular banquet to men who were fasting +since daylight. A square meal, a comforting pipe, and the night's vigil, +which had looked so formidable, no longer troubled us, although, to tell +the truth, we were heartily glad when the dawn began to tint the east +with pale emerald and gold. We set to work at once, getting the huge +carcass to the surface without as much labour as I had anticipated. Of +course all hands came to the rescue. + +But, alas for the fruit of our labours! Those hungry monsters had +collected in thousands, and, to judge from what we were able to see of +the body, they had reduced its value alarmingly. However, we commenced +towing, and were getting along fairly well, when a long spur of reef to +leeward of us, over which the sea was breaking frightfully, seemed to be +stretching farther out to intercept us before we could get into smooth +water. The fact soon faced us that we were in the remorseless grip of a +current that set right over that reef, and against its steady stream all +our efforts were the merest triviality. Still, we hung on, struggling +desperately to keep what we had earned, until so close to the roaring, +foaming line of broken water, that one wave breaking farther out than +the rest very nearly swamped us all. One blow of an axe, one twirl of +the steer-oars, and with all the force we could muster we were pulling +away from the very jaws of death, leaving our whale to the hungry +crowds, who would make short work of him. Downcast indeed, at our bad +luck, we returned on board, disappointing the skipper very much with our +report. Like the true gentleman he was, though, recognizing that we had +done our best, he did not add to the trouble by cursing us all for a set +of useless trash, as his predecessor would have done; on the contrary, a +few minutes after the receipt of the bad news his face was as bright as +ever, his laugh as hearty as if there was no such thing as a misfortune +in the world. + +And now I must come to what has been on my mind so long--a tragedy that, +in spite of all that had gone before, and of what came after, is the +most indelible of all the memories which cling round me of that eventful +time. Abner Cushing, the Vermonter had declared at different times that +he should never see his native Green Mountain again. Since the change +in our commander, however, he had been another man--always silent and +reserved, but brighter, happier, and with a manner so improved as to +make it hard to recognize him for the same awkward, ungainly slab of a +fellow that had bungled everything he put his hand to. Taking stock of +him quietly during our day-long leisurely cruises in the boat, I often +wondered whether his mind still kept its gloomy forebodings, and brooded +over his tragical life-history. I never dared to speak to him on the +subject, for fear of arousing what I hoped was growing too faint for +remembrance. But at times I saw him in the moonlit evenings sitting on +the rail alone, steadfastly gazing down into the star-besprent waters +beneath him, as if coveting their unruffled peace. + +Two-thirds of our stay in the islands had passed away, when, for a +wonder, the captain took it into his head to go up to the chief village +one morning. So he retained me on board, while the other three boats +left for the day's cruise as usual. One of the mate's crew was sick, and +to replace him he took Abner out of my boat. Away they went; and shortly +after breakfast-time I lowered, received the captain on board, and +we started for the capital. Upon our arrival there we interviewed the +chief, a stout, pleasant-looking man of about fifty, who was evidently +held in great respect by the natives, and had a chat with the white +Wesleyan missionary in charge of the station. About two p.m., after +the captain's business was over, we were returning under sail, when we +suddenly caught sight of two of our boats heading in towards one of the +islands. We helped her with the paddles to get up to them, seeing as we +neared them the two long fins of a whale close ahead of one of them. +As we gazed breathlessly at the exciting scene, we saw the boat rush in +between the two flippers, the harpooner at the same time darting an iron +straight down. There was a whirl in the waters, and quick as thought +the vast flukes of the whale rose in the air, recurving with a sidelong +sweep as of some gigantic scythe. The blow shore off the bow of the +attacking boat as if it had been an egg-shell. + +At the same moment the mate stooped, picked up the tow-line from its +turn round the logger-head, and threw it forward from him. He must have +unconsciously given a twist to his hand, for the line fell in a kink +round Abner's neck just as the whale went down with a rush. Struggling, +clutching at the fatal noose, the hapless man went flying out through +the incoming sea, and in one second was lost to sight for ever. Too +late, the harpooner cut the line which attached the wreck to the +retreating animal, leaving the boat free, but gunwale under. We +instantly hauled alongside of the wreck and transferred her crew, all +dazed and horror-stricken at the awful death of their late comrade. + +I saw the tears trickle down the rugged, mahogany-coloured face of the +captain, and honoured him for it, but there was little time to waste in +vain regrets. It was necessary to save the boat, if possible, as we were +getting short of boat-repairing material; certainly we should not have +been able to build a new one. So, drawing the two sound boats together, +one on either side of the wreck, we placed the heavy steering oars +across them from side to side. We then lifted the battered fore part +upon the first oar, and with a big effort actually succeeded in lifting +the whole of the boat out of water upon this primitive pontoon. Then, +taking the jib, we "frapped" it round the opening where the bows had +been, lashing it securely in that position. Several hands were told off +to jump into her stern on the word, and all being ready we launched her +again. The weight of the chaps in her stern-sheets cocked her bows +right out of water, and in that position we towed her back to the ship, +arriving safely before dusk. + +That evening we held a burial service, at which hundreds of natives +attended with a solemnity of demeanour and expressions of sorrow that +would not have been out of place at the most elaborate funeral in +England or America. It was a memorable scene. The big cressets were +lighted, shedding their wild glare over the dark sea, and outlining +the spars against the moonless sky with startling effect. When we +had finished the beautiful service, the natives, as if swayed by an +irresistible impulse, broke into the splendid tune St. Ann's; and +I afterwards learned that the words they sang were Dr. Watts' +unsurpassable rendering of Moses' pean of praise, "O God, our help in +ages past." No elaborate ceremonial in towering cathedral could begin to +compare with the massive simplicity of poor Abner's funeral honours, the +stately hills for many miles reiterating the sweet sounds, and carrying +them to the furthest confines of the group. + +Next day was Sunday, and, in pursuance of a promise given some time +before, I went ashore to my "flem's" to dinner, he being confined to the +house with a hurt leg. It was not by any means a festive gathering, for +he was more than commonly taciturn; his daughter Irene, a buxom lassie +of fourteen, who waited on us, appeared to be dumb; and his wife was "in +the straw." These trifling drawbacks, however, in nowise detracted from +the hospitality offered. The dining-room was a large apartment furnished +with leaves, the uprights of cocoa-nut tree, the walls and roof of +pandanus leaf. Beneath the heaps of leaves, fresh and sweet-scented, was +the earth. The inner apartment, or chamber of state, had a flooring of +highly-polished planks, and contained, I presume, the household gods; +but as it was in possession of my host's secluded spouse, I did not +enter. + +A couch upon a pile of leaves was hastily arranged, upon which I was +bidden to seat myself, while a freshly cut cocoa-nut of enormous size +was handed to me, the soft top sliced off so that I might drink its +deliciously cool contents. These nuts must grow elsewhere, but I have +never before or since seen any so large. When green--that is, before +the meat has hardened into indigestible matter--they contain from three +pints to two quarts of liquid, at once nourishing, refreshing, and +palatable. The natives appeared to drink nothing else, and I never saw a +drop of fresh water ashore during our stay. + +Taking a huge knife from some hiding-place, Irene handed it to her +father, who at once commenced to dig in the ground by his side, while +I looked on wondering and amused. Presently he fished up a bundle of +leaves bound with a vine-tendril, which he laid carefully aside. More +digging brought to light a fine yam about three pounds in weight, which, +after carefully wiping the knife on some leaves, he proceeded to peel. +It was immediately evident that the yam was perfectly cooked, for it +steamed as he removed the skin, revealing the inside as white as milk. +Some large, round leaves were laid in front of me, and the yam placed +upon them. Then mine host turned his attention to the bundle first +unearthed, which concealed a chicken, so perfectly done that, although +the bones drew out of the meat as if it had been jelly, it was full of +juice and flavour; and except for a slight foreign twang, referrible, +doubtless, to the leaves in which it had been enwrapped, I do not think +it could have been possible to cook anything in a better way, or one +more calculated to retain all the natural juices of the meat. The fowl +was laid beside the yam, another nut broached; then, handing me the big +knife, my "flem" bade me welcome, informing me that I saw my dinner. +As nothing would induce him to join me, the idea being contrary to +his notions of respect due to a guest, I was fain to fall to, and an +excellent meal I made. For dessert, a basketful of such oranges freshly +plucked as cannot be tasted under any other conditions, and crimson +bananas, which upon being peeled, looked like curved truncheons of +golden jelly, after tasting which I refused to touch anything else. + +A corn-cob cigarette closed the banquet, After expressing my thanks, +I noticed that the pain of his leg was giving my friend considerable +uneasiness, which he was stolidly enduring upon my account rather than +appear discourteously anxious to get rid of me. So, with the excuse +that I must needs be going, having another appointment, I left the good +fellow and strolled around to the chapel, where I sat enjoying the sight +of those simple-minded Kanakas at their devotions till it was time to +return on board. Before closing this chapter, I would like, for the +benefit of such of my readers who have not heard yet of Kanaka cookery, +to say that it is simplicity itself. A hole is scooped in the earth, in +which a fire is made (of wood), and kept burning until a fair-sized +heap of glowing charcoal remains. Pebbles are then thrown in until the +charcoal is covered. Whatever is to be cooked is enveloped in leaves, +placed upon the pebbles, and more leaves heaped upon it. The earth is +then thrown back into the cavity, and well stamped down. A long time is, +of course, needed for the viands to get cooked through; but so subtle is +the mode that overdoing anything is almost an impossibility. A couple of +days may pass from the time of "putting down" the joint, yet when it +is dug up it will be smoking hot, retaining all its juices, tender as +jelly, but, withal, as full of flavour as it is possible for cooked meat +to be. No matter how large the joint is, or how tough the meat, this +gentle suasion will render it succulent and tasty; and no form of +civilized cookery can in the least compare with it. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXII. FAREWELL TO VAU VAU + +Taking it all round, our visit to the Friendly Islands had not been +particularly fortunate up till the time of which I spoke at the +conclusion of the last chapter. Two-thirds of the period during which +the season was supposed to last had expired, but our catch had not +amounted to more than two hundred and fifty barrels of oil. Whales had +been undoubtedly scarce, for our ill-success on tackling bulls was +not at all in consequence of our clumsiness, these agile animals being +always a handful, but due to the lack of cows, which drove us to take +whatever we could get, which, as has been noted, was sometimes a severe +drubbing. Energy and watchfulness had been manifested in a marked degree +by everybody, and when the news circulated that our stay was drawing to +a close, there was, if anything, an increase of zeal in the hope that we +might yet make a favourable season. + +But none of these valuable qualities exhibited by us could make up for +the lack of "fish" which was lamentably evident. It was not easy to +understand why, because these islands were noted as a breeding-place for +the humpbacked whale. Yet for years they had not been fished, so that a +plausible explanation of the paucity of their numbers as a consequence +of much harassing could not be reasonably offered. Still, after +centuries of whale-fishing, little is known of the real habits of +whales, Where there is abundance of "feed," in the case of MYSTICETA it +may be reasonably inferred that whales may be found in proportionately +greater numbers. With regard to the wider-spread classes of the +great marine mammalia, beyond the fact, ascertained from continued +observation, that certain parts of the ocean are more favoured by them +than others, there is absolutely no data to go upon as to why at times +they seem to desert their usual haunts and scatter themselves far and +wide. + +The case of the cachalot is still more difficult. All the BALAENAE seem +to be compelled, by laws which we can only guess at, to frequent the +vicinity of land possessing shallows at their breeding times, so that +they may with more or less certainty be looked for in such places at +the seasons which have been accurately fixed. They may be driven to seek +other haunts, as was undoubtedly the case at Vau Vau in a great measure, +by some causes unknown, but to land they must come at those times. The +sperm whale, however, needs no shelter at such periods, or, at any rate, +does not avail herself of any. They may often be seen in the vicinity of +land where the water is deep close to, but seldom with calves. Schools +of cows with recently born young gambolling about them are met with +at immense distances from land, showing no disposition to seek shelter +either. For my part, I firmly believe that the cachalot is so terrible a +foe, that the great sharks who hover round a gravid cow of the BALAENAE, +driving her in terror to some shallow spot where she may hope to protect +her young, never dare to approach a sperm cow on kidnapping errands, or +any other if they can help it, until their unerring guides inform them +that life is extinct. When a sperm whale is in health, nothing that +inhabits the sea has any chance with him; neither does he scruple to +carry the war into the enemy's country, since all is fish that comes +to his net, and a shark fifteen feet in length has been found in the +stomach of a cachalot. + +The only exception he seems to make is in the case of man. Instances +have several--nay, many times occurred where men have been slain by the +jaws of a cachalot crushing the boat in which they were; but their death +was of course incidental to the destruction of the boat. Never, as far +as I have been able to ascertain, has a cachalot attacked a man swimming +or clinging to a piece of wreckage, although such opportunities occur +innumerably. I have in another place told the story of how I once saw a +combat between a bull-cachalot and so powerful a combination of enemies +that even one knowing the fighting qualities of the sperm whale would +have hesitated to back him to win, but the yarn will bear repetition. + +Two "killers" and a sword-fish, all of the largest size. Description of +these warriors is superfluous, since they are so well known to museums +and natural histories; but unless one has witnessed the charge of +a XIPHIAS, he cannot realize what a fearful foe it is. Still, as a +practice, these creatures leave the cachalot respectfully alone, knowing +instinctively that he is not their game. Upon this memorable occasion, +however I guess the two ORCAS were starving, and they had organized +a sort of forlorn hope with the XIPHIAS as an auxiliary who might be +relied upon to ensure success if it could be done. Anyhow, the syndicate +led off with their main force first; for while the two killers hung on +the cachalot's flanks, diverting his attention, the sword-fish, a giant +some sixteen feet long, launched himself at the most vulnerable part of +the whale, for all the world like a Whitehead torpedo. The wary eye +of the whale saw the long, dark mass coming, and, like a practised +pugilist, coolly swerved, taking for the nonce no notice of those +worrying wolves astern. The shock came; but instead of the sword +penetrating three, or maybe four feet just where the neck (if a whale +has any neck) encloses the huge heart, it met the mighty, impenetrable +mass of the head, solid as a block of thirty tons of india-rubber. + +So the blow glanced, revealing a white streak running diagonally across +the eye, while the great XIPHIAS rolled helplessly over the top of that +black bastion. With a motion so rapid that the eye could scarcely follow +it, the whale turned, settling withal, and, catching the momentarily +motionless aggressor in the lethal sweep of those awful shears, crunched +him in two halves, which writhing sections he swallowed SERIATIM. And +the allied forces aft--what of them? Well, they had been rash--they +fully realized that fact, and would have fled, but one certainly found +that he had lingered on the scene too long. The thoroughly-roused +leviathan, with a reversal of his huge bulk that made the sea boil like +a pot, brandished his tail aloft and brought it down upon the doomed +"killer," making him at once the "killed." He was crushed like a shrimp +under one's heel. + +The survivor fled--never faster--for an avalanche of living, furious +flesh was behind him, and coming with enormous leaps half out of the sea +every time. Thus they disappeared, but I have no doubts as to the issue. +Of one thing I am certain--that, if any of the trio survived, they never +afterwards attempted to rush a cachalot. + +Strange to say, the sperm whale does not appear to be a fond mother. At +the advent of danger she often deserts her offspring and in such cases +it is hardly conceivable that she ever finds it again. It is true that +she is not gifted with such long "arms" as the BALAENAE wherewith to +cuddle her young one to her capacious bosom while making tracks from +her enemies; nor is she much "on the fight," not being so liberally +furnished with jaw as the fierce and much larger bull--for this is +the only species of whale in which there exists a great disproportion +between the sexes in point of size. Such difference as may obtain +between the MYSTICETA is slightly in favour of the female. I never heard +of a cow-cachalot yielding more than fifty barrels of oil; but I have +both heard of, and seen, bulls carrying one hundred and fifty. One +individual taken by us down south was seventy feet long, and furnished +us with more than the latter amount; but I shall come to him by-and-by. +Just one more point before leaving this (to me) fascinating subject for +the present. + +To any one studying the peculiar configuration of a cachalot's mouth, it +would appear a difficult problem how the calf could suck. Certainly it +puzzled me more than a little. But, when on the "line" grounds we got +among a number of cows one calm day, I saw a little fellow about fifteen +feet long, apparently only a few days old, in the very act. The mother +lay on one side, with the breast nearly at the waters edge; while the +calf, lying parallel to its parent, with its head in the same direction, +held the teat sideways in the angle of its jaw, with its snout +protruding from the surface. Although we caught several cow-humpbacks +with newly born calves, I never had an opportunity of seeing THEM suck. + +Gradually our pleasant days at Vau Vau drew to a close. So quiet and +idyllic had the life been, so full of simple joys, that most of us, if +not all, felt a pang at the thought of our imminent departure from +the beautiful place. Profitable, in a pecuniary sense, the season had +certainly failed to be, but that was the merest trifle compared with +the real happiness and peace enjoyed during our stay. Even the terrible +tragedy which had taken one of our fellows from us could not spoil the +actual enjoyment of our visit, sad and touching as the event undoubtedly +was. There was always, too, a sufficiently arduous routine of necessary +duties to perform, preventing us from degenerating into mere lotus +eaters in that delicious afternoon-land. Nor even to me, friendless +nomad as I was, did the thought ever occur, "I will return no more." + +But these lovely days spent in softly gliding over the calm, azure +depths, bathed in golden sunlight, gazing dreamily down at the +indescribable beauties of the living reefs, feasting daintily on +abundance of never-cloying fruit, amid scenes of delight hardly to be +imagined by the cramped mind of the town dweller; islands, air, and sea +all shimmering in an enchanted haze, and silence scarcely broken by +the tender ripple of the gently-parted waters before the boat's steady +keel--though these joys have all been lost to me, and I in "populous +city pent" endure the fading years, I would not barter the memory of +them for more than I can say, so sweet it is to me. And, then, our +relations with the natives had been so perfectly amicable, so free from +anything to regret. Perhaps this simple statement will raise a cynical +smile upon the lips of those who know Tahati, the New Hebrides, and +kindred spots with all their savage, bestial orgies of alternate +unbridled lust and unnamable cruelty. Let it be so. For my part, I +rejoice that I have no tale of weeks of drunkenness, of brutal rape, +treacherous murder, and almost unthinkable torture to tell. + +For of such is the paradise of the beach-comber, and the hell of the +clean man. Not that I have been able to escape it altogether. When I say +that I once shipped, unwittingly, as sailing-master of a little white +schooner in Noumea, bound to Apia, finding when too late that she was a +"blackbirder"--"labour vessel," the wise it call--nothing more will be +needed to convince the initiated that I have moved in the "nine circles" +of Polynesia. + +Some time before the day fixed for our departure, we were busy storing +the gifts so liberally showered upon us by our eager friends. Hundreds +of bunches of bananas, many thousands of oranges, yams, taro, chillies, +fowls, and pigs were accumulated, until the ship looked like a huge +market-boat. But we could not persuade any of the natives to ship with +us to replace those whoso contract was now expiring. Samuela and Polly +were, after much difficulty, prevailed upon by me to go with us to +New Zealand, much to my gratification; but still we were woefully +short-handed, At last, seeing that there was no help for it, the skipper +decided to run over to Futuna, or Horn Island, where he felt certain of +obtaining recruits without any trouble. He did so most unwillingly, as +may well be believed, for the newcomers would need much training, while +our present Kanaka auxiliaries were the smartest men in the ship. + +The slop-chest was largely drawn upon, to the credit of the crew, +who wished in some tangible way to show their appreciation of the +unremitting kindness shown them by their dusky friends. Not a whisper +had been uttered by any native as to desire of remuneration for what +he had given. If they expected a return, they certainly exercised great +control over themselves in keeping their wishes quiet. But when they +received the clothing, all utterly unsuited to their requirements as it +was, their beaming faces eloquently proclaimed the reality of their joy. +Heavy woollen shirts, thick cloth trousers and jackets, knitted socks; +but acceptable beyond all was a pilot-suit--warm enough for the Channel +in winter. Happy above all power of expression was he who secured +it. With an eared cloth cap and a pair of half boots, to complete +his preposterous rig, no Bond Street exquisite could feel more calmly +conscious of being a well-dressed man than he. From henceforth he would +be the observed of all observers at chapel on Sunday, exciting +worldly desires and aspirations among his cooler but coveting +fellow-worshippers. + +The ladies fared very badly, until the skipper, with a twinkling eye, +announced that he had "dug up" some rolls of "cloth" (calico), which +he was prepared to supply us with at reasonable rates. Being of rather +pretty pattern, it went off like hot pies, and as the "fathoms" of +gaudy, flimsy material were distributed to the delighted fafines, their +shrill cries of gratitude were almost deafening. + +Inexorable time brought round the morning of our departure. Willing +hands lifted our anchor, and hoisted the sails, so that we had nothing +to do but look on. A scarcely perceptible breeze, stealing softly over +the tree-tops, filled our upper canvas, sparing us the labour of towing +her out of the little bay where we had lain so long, and gradually +wafted us away from its lovely shores, amid the fast-flowing tears of +the great crowd. With multitudinous cries of "Ofa, al-ofa, papalang" +ringing in our ears ("Good-bye; good-bye, white man"), we rounded the +point, and, with increasing pace, bore away through the outlying islands +for the open sea. There was a strong trade blowing, making the old +barky caper like a dancing-master, which long unfamiliar motion almost +disagreed with some of us, after our long quiet. Under its hastening +influence we made such good time that before dinner Vau Vau had faded +into nothingness, mingling like the clouds with the soft haze on the +horizon, from henceforth only a memory. + +We were not a very cheerful crowd that night, most of us being busy with +his own reflections. I must confess that I felt far greater sorrow at +leaving Vau Vau than ever I did at leaving England; because by the time +I was able to secure a berth, I have usually drunk pretty deep of the +bitter cup of the "outward bounder," than whom there is no more forlorn, +miserable creature on earth. No one but the much abused boarding-master +will have anything to do with him, and that worthy is generally careful +to let him know that he is but a hanger-on, a dependant on sufferance +for a meal, and that his presence on shore is an outrage. As for the +sailors' homes, I have hardly patience to speak of them. I know the +sailor is usually a big baby that wants protecting against himself, and +that once within the four walls of the institution he is safe; but right +there commendation must end. Why are good folks ashore systematically +misled into the belief that the sailor is an object of charity, and that +it is necessary to subscribe continually and liberally to provide him +with food and shelter when ashore? Most of the contributors would be +surprised to know that the cost of board and lodging at the "home" is +precisely the same as it is outside, and much higher than a landsman of +the same grade can live for in better style. With the exception of the +sleeping accommodation, most men prefer the boarding-house, where, if +they preserve the same commercial status which is a SINE QUA NON at the +"home," they are treated like gentlemen; but in what follows lies +the essential difference, and the reason for this outburst of mine, +smothered in silence for years. An "outward bounder"--that is, a man +whose money is exhausted and who is living upon the credit; of his +prospective advance of pay--is unknown at the "home." No matter what the +condition of things is in the shipping world; though the man may have +fought with energy to get his discharge accepted among the crowd at +the "chain-locker;" though he be footsore and weary with "looking for a +ship," when his money is done, out into the street he must go, if haply +he may find a speculative boarding-master to receive him. This act, +although most unlikely in appearance, is often performed; and though the +boarding-master, of course, expects to recoup himself out of the man's +advance note, it is none the less as merciful as the action of the +"home" authorities is merciless. Of course a man may go to the "straw +house," or, as it is grandiloquently termed, the "destitute seaman's +asylum," where for a season he will be fed on the refuse from the +"home," and sheltered from the weather. But the ungrateful rascals do +not like the "straw house," and use very bad language about it. + +The galling thing about the whole affair is that the "sailors' home" +figures in certain official publications as a charity, which must be +partially supported by outside contributions. It may be a charitable +institution, but it certainly is not so to the sailor, who pays fully +for everything he receives. The charity is bestowed upon a far different +class of people to merchant Jack. Let it be granted that a man is sober +and provident, always getting a ship before his money is all gone, he +will probably be well content at the home, although very few seamen like +to be reminded ashore of their sea routine, as the manner of the home +is. If the institution does not pay a handsome dividend, with its +clothing shops and refreshment bars, as well as the boarding-house +lousiness on such a large scale, only one inference can be fairly +drawn--there must be something radically wrong with the management. + +After this burst of temper, perhaps I had better get back to the subject +in hand. It was, I suppose, in the usual contrary nature of things that, +while we were all in this nearly helpless condition, one evening just +before sunset, along comes a sperm whale. Now, the commonest prudence +would have suggested letting him severely alone, since we were not only +short-handed, but several of our crew were completely crippled by large +boils; but it would have been an unprecedented thing to do while there +was any room left in the hold. Consequently we mustered the halt and the +lame, and manned two boats--all we could do--leaving the almost useless +cripples to handle the ship. Not to displace the rightful harpooner, I +took an oar in one of them, headed by the captain. + +At first my hopes were high that we should not succeed in reaching the +victim before dark, but I was grievously disappointed in this. Just as +the whale was curving himself to sound, we got fairly close, and the +harpooner made a "pitch-pole" dart; that is, he hurled his weapon into +the air, where it described a fine curve, and fell point downward on +the animal's back just as he was disappearing. He stopped his descent +immediately, and turned savagely to see what had struck him so +unexpectedly. At that moment the sun went down. + +After the first few minutes' "kick-up," he settled down for a steady +run, but not before the mate got good and fast to him likewise. Away we +went at a rare rate into the gathering gloom of the fast-coming night. +Now, had it been about the time of full moon or thereabouts, we should +doubtless have been able, by the flood of molten light she sends down in +those latitudes, to give a good account of our enemy; but alas for us, +it was not. The sky overhead was a deep blue-black, with steely sparkles +of starlight scattered all over it, only serving to accentuate the +darkness. After a short time our whale became totally invisible, except +for the phosphoric glare of the water all around him as he steadily +ploughed his way along. There was a good breeze blowing, which soon +caused us all to be drenched with the spray, rendering the general +effect of things cold as well as cheerless. Needless to say, we strove +with all our might to get alongside of him, so that an end might be put +to so unpleasant a state of affairs; but in our crippled condition it +was not at all easy to do so. + +We persevered, however, and at last managed to get near enough for the +skipper to hurl a lance into the brightness of which the whale formed +the centre. It must have touched him, for he gave a bound forward and +disappeared. We suddenly came to a standstill, but in a moment were +whirled round as if on a pivot, and away we went in the opposite +direction. He had turned a complete somersault in the water beneath us, +giving us a "grue" as we reflected what would have happened had he then +chosen to come bounding to the surface. This manoeuvre seemed to please +him mightily, for he ran at top speed several minutes, and then repeated +it. This time he was nearly successful in doing us some real harm, for +it was now so dark that we could hardly see the other boat's form as +she towed along parallel to us about three or four lengths away. The two +boats swung round in a wide circle, rushing back at each other out of +the surrounding darkness as if bent on mutual destruction. Only by the +smartest manipulation was a collision avoided, which, as each boat's +bows bristled with lances and harpoons, would have been a serious matter +for some of us. However, the whale did not have it all his own way, for +the skipper, having charged his bomb-gun, patiently laid for him, and +fired. It was rather a long shot, but it reached him, as we afterwards +ascertained, making an ugly wound in the small near his tail. + +Its effect upon him was startling and immediate. He rushed off at so +furious a rate dead to windward that for a great while we had all our +work cut out to keep her free by baling. The sea had risen a little, and +as we leapt from one wave to another the spray flew over us in an almost +continuous cloud. Clearly our situation was a parlous one. We could not +get near him; we were becoming dangerously enfeebled, and he appeared to +be gaining strength instead of losing it. Besides all this, none of us +could have the least idea of how the ship now bore from us, our only +comfort being that, by observation of the Cross, we were not making a +direct course, but travelling on the circumference of an immense +circle. Whatever damage we had done to him so far was evidently quite +superficial, for, accustomed as we were to tremendous displays of vigour +on the part of these creatures, this specimen fairly surprised us. + +The time could only be guessed at; but, judging from our feelings, it +might have been two or three nights long. Still, to all things an end, +so in the midst of our dogged endurance of all this misery we felt +the pace give, and took heart of grace immediately. Calling up all our +reserves, we hauled up on to him, regardless of pain or weariness. +The skipper and mate lost no opportunities of lancing, once they +were alongside, but worked like heroes, until a final plunging of +the fast-dying leviathan warned us to retreat. Up he went out of the +glittering foam into the upper darkness, while we held our breath at the +unique sight of a whale breaching at night. But when he fell again the +effect was marvellous. Green columns of water arose on either side +of the descending mass as if from the bowels of the deep, while +their ghostly glare lit up the encircling gloom with a strange, weird +radiance, which reflected in our anxious faces, made us look like an +expedition from the FLYING DUTCHMAN. A short spell of gradually quieting +struggle succeeded as the great beast succumbed, until all was still +again, except the strange, low surge made by the waves as they broke +over the bank of flesh passively obstructing their free sweep. + +While the final touch was being given to our task--i.e. the hole-boring +through the tail-fin--all hands lay around in various picturesque +attitudes, enjoying a refreshing smoke, care forgetting. While thus +pleasantly employed, sudden death, like a bolt from the blue, leapt into +our midst in a terrible form. The skipper was labouring hard at his task +of cutting the hole for the tow-line, when without warning the great fin +swung back as if suddenly released from tremendous tension. Happily for +us, the force of the blow was broken by its direction, as it struck the +water before reaching the boat's side, but the upper lobe hurled the +boat-spade from the captain's hands back into our midst, where it struck +the tub oarsman, splitting his head in two halves. The horror of the +tragedy, the enveloping darkness, the inexplicable revivifying of the +monster, which we could not have doubted to be dead, all combined to +stupefy and paralyze us for the time. Not a sound was heard in our boat, +though the yells of inquiry from our companion craft arose in increasing +volume. It was but a brief accession of energy, only lasting two or +three minutes, when the whale collapsed finally. Having recovered from +our surprise, we took no further chances with so dangerous an opponent, +but bored him as full of holes as a colander. + +Mournful and miserable were the remaining hours of our vigil. We sat +around poor Miguel's corpse with unutterable feelings, recalling all +the tragical events of the voyage, until we reached the nadir of +despondency. With the rosy light of morning came more cheerful feelings, +heightened by the close proximity of the ship, from which it is probable +we had never been more than ten miles distant during the whole night. +She had sighted us with the first light, and made all sail down to us, +all hands much relieved at our safety. We were so sorely exhausted that +we could hardly climb on board; and how we hoisted the boats I hardly +know. The whale was secured by the efforts of the cripples we had left +on board, while we wayfarers, after a good meal, were allowed four +hours' sound, sweet sleep. + +When we returned to our duties, the first thing that awaited us was +the burial of the poor body. Very reverently were the last sad offices +performed, the flag hoisted half-mast, the bell solemnly tolled. Then we +gathered at the gangway while the eternal words of hope and consolation +were falteringly read, and with a sudden plunge the long, straight +parcel slid off the hatch into the vast tomb ever ready for the dead +sailor. + +Our dead out of sight, work claimed all our attention and energy, wiping +with its benificent influence all gloomy musings over the inevitable, +and replacing them with the pressing needs of life. The whale was not +a large one, but peculiar to look at. Like the specimen that fought so +fiercely with us in the Indian Ocean, its jaw was twisted round in a +sort of hook, the part that curved being so thickly covered with +long barnacles as to give the monster a most eerie look. One of the +Portuguese expressed his decided opinion that we had caught Davy Jones +himself, and that, in consequence, we should have no more accidents. +It was impossible not to sympathize with the conceit, for of all the +queer-looking monstrosities ever seen, this latest acquisition of ours +would have taken high honours. Such malformations of the lower mandible +of the cachalot have often been met with, and variously explained; but +the most plausible opinion seems to be that they have been acquired when +the animal is very young and its bones not yet indurated, since it +is impossible to believe that an adult could suffer such an accident +without the broken jaw drooping instead of being turned on one side. + +The yield of oil was distressingly scanty, the whale being what is +technically known as a "dry skin." The blubber was so hard and tough +that we could hardly cut it up for boiling, and altogether it was one of +the most disappointing affairs we had yet dealt with. This poorness of +blubber was, to my mind, undoubtedly due to the difficulty the animal +must have had in obtaining food with his disabling defect of jaw. +Whatever it was, we were heartily glad to see the last of the beast, +fervently hoping we should never meet with another like him. + +During the progress of these melancholy operations we had drifted a +considerable distance out of our course, no attention being paid, as +usual, to the direction of our drift until the greasy work was +done. Once the mess was cleared away, we hauled up again for our +objective--Futuna--which, as it was but a few hours' sail distant, we +hoped to make the next day. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. AT FUTUNA, RECRUITING + +Sure enough, in accordance with our expectations, break of day revealed +the twin masses of Futuna ahead, some ten or fifteen miles away. With +the fine, steady breeze blowing, by breakfast-time we were off the +entrance to a pretty bight, where sail was shortened and the ship +hove-to. Captain Count did not intend to anchor, for reasons of his +own, he being assured that there was no need to do so. Nor was there. +Although the distance from the beach was considerable, we could see +numbers of canoes putting off, and soon they began to arrive. Now, some +of the South Sea Islands are famous for the elegance and seaworthiness +of their canoes; nearly all of them have a distinctly definite style +of canoe-building; but here at Futuna was a bewildering collection of +almost every type of canoe in the wide world. Dugouts, with outriggers +on one side, on both sides, with none at all; canoes built like boats, +like prams, like irregular egg-boxes, many looking like the first boyish +attempt to knock something together that would float; and--not to +unduly prolong the list by attempted classification of these unclassed +craft--CORACLES. Yes; in that lonely Pacific island, among that motley +crowd of floating nondescripts, were specimens of the ancient coracle +of our own islands, constructed in exactly the same way; that is, of +wicker-work, covered with some waterproof substance, whether skin or +tarpaulin. But the ingenious Kanaka, not content with his coracles, +had gone one better, and copied them in dugouts of solid timber. The +resultant vessel was a sort of cross between a butcher's tray and a +wash-basin-- + +"A thing beyond Conception: such a wretched wherry, Perhaps ne'er +ventured on a pond, Or crossed a ferry." + +The proud possessors of the coracles, both wicker and wood, must have +been poor indeed, for they did not even own a paddle, propelling their +basins through the water with their hands. It may be imagined what a +pace they put on! At a little distance they were very puzzling, looking +more like a water-beetle grown fat and lazy than aught else. + +And so, in everything floatable, the whole male population of that part +of the coast came to visit us. We were speedily the centre of a great +crowd of canoes, some of which were continually capsizing and spilling +their occupants, who took no more notice of such incidents than one +would of a sneeze. Underneath a canoe, or on top, made but little +difference to these amphibious creatures. They brought nothing with +them to trade; in fact, few of their vessels were capable of carrying +anything that could not swim and take care of itself. As they came +on board, each crossed himself more or less devoutly, revealing the +teaching of a Roman Catholic mission; and as they called to one another, +it was not hard to recognize, even in their native garb, such names as +Erreneo (Irenaeus), Al'seo (Aloysius), and other favourite cognomens of +saints. + +A laughing chattering good-tempered crowd they were--just like a bevy of +children breaking up, and apparently destitute of the slightest sense +of responsibility. They spoke a totally different dialect, or maybe +language, to that of Vau Vau, for it was only an isolated word here and +there that Samuela could make out. But presently, going forward through +the crowd that thronged every part of the deck, I saw a man leaning +nonchalantly against the rail by the fore-rigging, who struck me at +once as being an American negro. The most casual observer would not +have mistaken him for a Kanaka of those latitudes, though he might +have passed as a Papuan. He was dressed in all the dignity of a woollen +shirt, with a piece of fine "tapa" for a waistcloth, feet and legs bare. +Around his neck was a necklace composed of a number of strings of blue +and white beads plaited up neatly, and carrying as a pendant a George +shilling. Going up to him, I looked at the coin, and said, "Belitani +money?" "Oh yes," he said, "that's a shilling of old Georgey Fourf," +in perfectly good English, but with an accent which quite confirmed my +first idea. I at once invited him aft to see the skipper, who was very +anxious to find an interpreter among the noisy crowd, besides being +somewhat uneasy at having so large a number on board. + +To the captain's interrogations he replied that he was "Tui +Tongoa"--that is, King of Tonga, an island a little distance away--but +that he was at present under a cloud, owing to the success of a usurper, +whom he would reckon with by-and-by. + +In the mean time he would have no objection to engaging himself with +us as a harpooner, and would get us as many men as we wanted, selecting +from among the crowd on board, fellows that would, he knew, be useful to +us. + +A bargain was soon struck, and Tui entered upon his self-imposed task. +It was immediately evident that he had a bigger contract on hand than he +had imagined. The natives, who had previously held somewhat aloof from +him in a kind of deferential respect, no sooner got wind of the fact +that we needed some of them than they were seized with a perfect frenzy +of excitement. There were, I should think, at least a hundred and fifty +of them on board at the time. Of this crowd, every member wanted to be +selected, pushing his candidature with voice and gesture as vigorously +as he knew how. The din was frightful. Tui, centre of the frantic mob, +strove vainly to make himself heard, to reduce the chaos to some sort +of order, but for a great while it was a hopeless attempt. At last, +extricating himself from his importunate friends, he gained the +captain's side. Panting, almost breathless, with sweat streaming off +him, he gasped out, "Oh, cap'n, dese yer darn niggers all gone mad! +Dribe 'em oberbord; clar 'em out, 'n I'll stan' by to grab some o' der +likely ones as de res' scatter." "But what about the wages?" said the +skipper. "I'm not goin' ter give 'em whatever they like to ask." "You +leab it ter me, cap'n. I bet you'll be satisfy. Anyhow, dishyers no +time fer tradin'; de blame niggers all off dere coco-nuts. Anybody fink +you'se payin' off 'stead o' shippin', an' deyse all afraid dey won't get +'nough." + +Unpleasant as the job was to all of us, it had to be done; so we armed +ourselves with ropes'-ends, which we flourished threateningly, avoiding +where possible any actual blows. Many sprang overboard at once, finding +their way ashore or to their canoes as best they could. The majority, +however, had to swim, for we now noticed that, either in haste or from +carelessness, they had in most cases omitted to fasten their canoes +securely when coming alongside, so that many of them were now far out +to sea. The distance to shore being under three miles, that mattered +little, as far as their personal safety was concerned. + +This summary treatment was eminently successful, quiet being rapidly +restored, so that Tui was able to select a dozen men, who he declared +were the best in the islands for our purpose. Although it seems somewhat +premature to say so, the general conduct of the successful candidates +was so good as to justify Tui fully in his eulogium. Perhaps his +presence had something to do with it? + +We now had all that we came for, so that we were anxious to be off. But +it was a job to get rid of the visitors still remaining on board. +They stowed themselves away in all manner of corners, in some cases +ludicrously inadequate as hiding-places, and it was not until we were +nearly five miles from the land that the last of them plunged into +the sea and struck out for home. It was very queer. Ignorant of our +destination, of what would be required of them; leaving a land of ease +and plenty for a certainty of short commons and hard work, without +preparation or farewells, I do not think I ever heard of such a strange +thing before. Had their home been famine or plague-stricken, they could +not have evinced greater eagerness to leave it, or to face the great +unknown. + +As we drew farther off the island the wind freshened, until we had a +good, whole-sail breeze blustering behind us, the old ship making, with +her usual generous fuss, a tremendous rate of seven knots an hour. Our +course was shaped for the southward, towards the Bay of Islands, New +Zealand. In that favourite haunt of the South-seaman we were to wood and +water, find letters from home (those who had one), and prepare for the +stormy south. + +Obviously the first thing to be done for our new shipmates was to clothe +them. When they arrived on board, all, with the single exception of Tui, +were furnished only with a "maro" of "tapa," scanty in its proportions, +but still enough to wrap round their loins. But when they were accepted +for the vacant positions on board, they cast off even the slight apology +for clothing which they had worn, flinging the poor rags to their +retreating and rejected compatriots. Thus they were strutting about, in +native majesty unclad, which, of course, could not be endured among even +so unconventional a crowd as we were. So they were mustered aft, and, +to their extravagant delight, a complete rig-out was handed to each of +them, accompanied by graphic instructions how to dress themselves. Very +queer they looked when dressed, but queerer still not long afterwards, +when some of them, galled by the unaccustomed restraint of the trousers, +were seen prowling about with shirts tied round their waists by the +sleeves, and pants twisted turban-wise about their heads. Tui was +called, and requested to inform them that they must dress properly, +after the fashion of the white man, for that any impromptu improvements +upon our method of clothes-wearing could not be permitted. As they were +gentle, tractable fellows, they readily obeyed, and, though they must +have suffered considerably, there were no further grounds for complaint +on the score of dress. + +It has been already noticed that they were Roman Catholics--all except +Tui, who from his superior mental elevation looked down upon their +beliefs with calm contempt, although really a greater heathen than any +of them had ever been. It was quite pathetic to see how earnestly they +endeavoured to maintain the form of worship to which they had been +accustomed, though how they managed without their priest, I could not +find out. Every evening they had prayers together, accompanied by many +crossings and genuflexions, and wound up by the singing of a hymn in +such queer Latin that it was almost unrecognizable. After much wondering +I did manage to make out "O Salutaris Hostia!" and "Tantum Ergo," but +not until their queer pronunciation of consonants had become familiar. +Some of the hymns were in their own tongue, only one of which I call now +remember. Phonetically, it ran thus-- + +"Mah-lee-ah, Kollyeea leekee; Obselloh mo mallamah. Alofah, keea ma toh; +Fah na oh, Mah lah ee ah"-- + +which I understood to be a native rendering of "O Stella Maris!" It was +sung to the well-known "Processional" in good time, and on that account, +I suppose, fixed itself in my memory. + +Whenever any of them were ordered aloft, they never failed to cross +themselves before taking to the rigging, as if impressed with a sense +of their chance of not returning again in safety. To me was given the +congenial task of teaching them the duties required, and I am bound to +admit that they were willing, biddable, and cheerful learners. Another +amiable trait in their characters was especially noticeable: they always +held everything in common. No matter how small the portion received by +any one, it was scrupulously shared with the others who lacked, and this +subdivision was often carried to ludicrous lengths. + +As there was so reason to hurry south, we, took a short cruise on the +Vasquez ground, more, I think, for the purpose of training our recruits +than anything else. As far as the results to our profit were concerned, +we might almost as well have gone straight on, for we only took one +small cow-cachalot. But the time spent thus cruising was by no means +wasted. Before we left finally for New Zealand, every one of those +Kanakas was as much at home in the whale-boats as he would have been in +a canoe. Of course they were greatly helped by their entire familiarity +with the water, which took from them all that dread of being drowned +which hampers the white "greenie" so sorely, besides which, the absolute +confidence they had in our prowess amongst the whales freed them from +any fear on that head. + +Tui proved himself to be a smart harpooner, and was chosen for the +captain's boat. During our conversations, I was secretly amused to hear +him allude to himself as Sam, thinking how little it accorded with his +SOI-DISANT Kanaka origin. He often regaled me with accounts of his royal +struggles to maintain his rule, all of which narrations I received with +a goodly amount of reserve, though confirmed in some particulars by +the Kanakas, when I became able to converse with them. But I was hardly +prepared to find, as I did many years after, upon looking up some detail +in Findlay's "South Pacific Directory," this worthy alluded to as "the +celebrated Sam," in a brief account of Futuna. There he was said to be +king of the twin isles; so I suppose he found means to oust his rival, +and resume his sovereignty; though, how an American negro, as Sam +undoubtedly was, ever managed to gain such a position, remains to me +an unfathomable mystery. Certainly he did not reveal any such masterful +attributes as one would have expected in him, while he served as +harpooner on board the CACHALOT. + +Gradually we crept south, until one morning we sighted the towering +mass of Sunday Island, the principal member of the small Kermadec +group, which lies nearly on the prime meridian of one hundred and eighty +degrees, and but a short distance north of the extremity of New Zealand. +We had long ago finished the last of our fresh provisions, fish had +been very scarce, so the captain seized the opportunity to give us a +run ashore, and at the same time instructed us to do such foraging as we +could. It was rumoured that there were many wild pigs to be found, +and certainly abundance of goats; but if both these sources of supply +failed, we could fall back on fish, of which we were almost sure to get +a good haul. + +The island is a stupendous mass of rock, rising sheer from the waves, in +some places to a height of fifteen hundred feet. These towering cliffs +are clothed with verdure, large trees clinging to their precipitous +sides in a marvellous way. Except at one small bight, known as Denham +Bay, the place is inaccessible, not only from the steepness of its +cliffs, but because, owing to its position, the gigantic swell of the +South Pacific assails those immense bastions with a force and volume +that would destroy instantly any vessel that unfortunately ventured +too near. Denham Bay, however, is in some measure protected by reefs +of scattered boulders, which break the greatest volume of the oncoming +rollers. Within those protecting barriers, with certain winds, it is +possible to effect a landing with caution; but even then no tyro in +boat-handling should venture to do so, as the experiment would almost +certainly be fatal to boat and crew. + +We hove-to off the little bay, the waters of which looked placid enough +for a pleasure-party, lowered two boats well furnished with fishing gear +and such other equipment as we thought would be needed, and pulled away +for the landing-place. As we drew near the beach, we found that, in +spite of the hindrance to the ocean swell afforded by the reefs, it +broke upon the beach in rollers of immense size. In order to avoid any +mishap, then, we turned the boats' heads to seaward, and gently backed +towards the beach, until a larger breaker than usual came thundering in. +As it rushed towards us, we pulled lustily to meet it, the lovely craft +rising to its foaming crest like sea-birds. Then, as soon as we were on +its outer slope, we reversed the stroke again, coming in on its mighty +shoulders at racing speed. The instant our keels touched the beach we +all leapt out, and exerting every ounce of strength we possessed, ran +the boats up high and dry before the next roller had time to do +more than hiss harmlessly around our feet. It was a task of uncommon +difficulty, for the shore was wholly composed of loose lava and +pumice-stone grit, into which we sank ankle-deep at every step, besides +being exceedingly steep. + +We managed, however, to escape without any mishap, for the drenching +was a boon to our burnt-up skins. Off we started along the level land, +which, as far as I could judge, extended inland for perhaps a mile and +a half by about two miles wide. From this flat shelf the cliffs +rose perpendicularly, as they did from the sea. Up their sides were +innumerable goat-tracks, upon some of which we could descry a few +of those agile creatures climbing almost like flies. The plateau was +thickly wooded, many of the trees having been fruit-bearing once, but +now, much to our disappointment, barren from neglect. + +A ruined house, surrounded by other vestiges of what had once been a +homestead, stood in the middle of this piece of land. Feeling curious to +know what the history of this isolated settlement might be, I asked +the mate if he knew anything of it. He told me that an American named +Halstead, with his family, lived here for years, visited only by an +occasional whaler, to whom they sold such produce as they might have and +be able to spare at the time. What their previous history had been, or +why they thus chose to cut themselves off from the world, he did not +know; but they seemed contented enough with their tiny kingdom, nor had +any wish to leave it. But it came to pass that one night they felt +the sure and firm-set earth trembling convulsively beneath their feet. +Rushing out of their house, they saw the heavens bespread with an awful +pall of smoke, the under-side of which was glowing with the reflected +fires of some vast furnace. Their terror was increased by a smart shower +of falling ashes and the reverberations of subterranean thunders. At +first they thought of flight in their boat, not reckoning the wide +stretch of sea which rolled between them and the nearest land, but +the height and frequency of the breakers then prevailing made that +impossible. + +Their situation was pitiable in the extreme. During the years of peace +and serenity they had spent here, no thought of the insecurity of their +tenure had troubled them. Though they had but been dwellers on the +threshold of the mountain, as it were, and any extension of their +territory impossible by reason of the insurmountable barrier around +them, they had led an untroubled life, all unknowing of the fearful +forces beneath their feet. But now they found the foundations of the +rocks beneath breaking up; that withering, incessant shower of ashes +and scoriae destroyed all their crops; the mild and delicate air changed +into a heavy, sulphurous miasma; while overhead the beneficent face of +the bright-blue sky had become a horrible canopy of deadly black, about +which played lurid coruscations of infernal fires. + +What they endured throughout those days and nights of woe, could never +be told. They fled from the home they had reared with such abundance of +loving labour, taking refuge in a cave; for not even the knowledge that +the mountain itself seemed to be in the throes of dissolution could +entirely destroy their trust in those apparently eternal fastnesses. +Here their eldest son died, worried to death by incessant terror. At +last a passing whaler, remembering them and seeing the condition of +things, had the humanity and courage to stand in near enough to see +their agonized signals of distress. All of them, except the son buried +but a day or two before, were safely received and carried away, leaving +the terrible mountain to its solitude. + +As I listened, I almost involuntarily cast my eyes upwards; nor was I at +all surprised to see far overhead a solitary patch of smoky cloud, which +I believe to have been a sure indication that the volcano was still +liable to commence operations at any time. + +So far, we had not happened upon any pigs, or goats either, although we +saw many indications of the latter odoriferous animal. There were few +sea-birds to be seen, but in and out among the dense undergrowth ran +many short-legged brown birds, something like a partridge--the same, I +believe, as we afterwards became familiar with in Stewart's Island by +the name of "Maori hens." They were so tame and inquisitive that we had +no difficulty in securing a few by the simple process of knocking +them over with sticks. From the main branch of a large tree hung a big +honey-comb, out of which the honey was draining upon the earth. Around +it buzzed a busy concourse of bees, who appeared to us so formidable +that we decided to leave them to the enjoyment of their sweet store, in +case we should invite an attack. + +So far, our rambling had revealed nothing of any service to us; but just +then, struck by the appearance of a plant which was growing profusely +in a glade we were passing over, I made bold to taste one of the leaves. +What the botanical name of the vegetable is, I do not know; but, under +the designation of "Maori cabbage," it is well known in New Zealand. It +looks like a lettuce, running to seed; but it tastes exactly like young +turnip-tops, and is a splendid anti-scorbutic. What its discovery +meant to us, I can hardly convey to any one who does not know what an +insatiable craving for potatoes and green vegetables possesses seamen +when they have for long been deprived of these humble but necessary +articles of food. Under the circumstances, no "find" could have given us +greater pleasure--that is, in the food line--than this did. + +Taking it all round, however, the place as a foraging ground was not a +success. We chased a goat of very large size, and beard voluminous as +a Rabbi's, into a cave, which may have been the one the Halsteads took +shelter in, for we saw no other. One of the Kanakas volunteered to go in +after him with a line, and did so. The resultant encounter was the +best bit of fun we had had for many a day. After a period of darksome +scuffling within, the entangled pair emerged, fiercely wrestling, Billy +being to all appearance much the fresher of the two. Fair play seemed to +demand that we should let them fight it out; but, sad to say, the +other Kanakas could not see things in that light, and Billy was +soon despatched. Rather needless killing, too; for no one, except at +starvation-point, could have eaten the poor remains of leathery flesh +that still decorated that weather-beaten frame. + +But this sort of thing was tiring and unprofitable. The interest of +the place soon fizzled out, when it was found there was so little worth +taking away; so, as the day was getting on, it was decided to launch off +and start fishing. In a few minutes we were afloat again, and anchored, +in about four fathoms, in as favourable a spot for our sport as ever +I saw. Fish swarmed about us of many sorts, but principally of the +"kauwhai," a kind of mullet very plentiful about Auckland, and averaging +five or six pounds. Much to my annoyance, we had not been able to get +any bait, except a bit of raw salt-pork, which hardly any fish but the +shark tribe will look at. Had I known or thought of it, a bit of goat +would have been far more attractive. + +However, as there was no help for it, we baited up and started. "Nary +nibble ermong 'em!" growled Sam, as we sat impatiently waiting for a +bite. When we hauled up to see what was wrong, fish followed the hook up +in hundreds, letting us know plainly as possible that they only wanted +something tasty. It was outrageous, exasperating beyond measure! At last +Samuela grew so tired of it that he seized his harpoon, and hurled it +into the middle of a company of kauwhai that were calmly nosing around +the bows. By the merest chance he managed to impale one of them upon the +broad point. It was hardly in the boat before I had seized it, scaled +it, and cut it into neat little blocks. All hands rebaited with it, and +flung out again. The change was astounding. Up they came, two at a +time, dozens and dozens of them kauwhai, cavalle, yellow-tail, +schnapper--lovely fish of delicious flavour and goodly size. Then one of +us got a fish which made him yell, "Shark! shark!" with all his might. +He had a small line of American cotton, staunch as copper wire, +but dreadfully cutting to the hands. When he took a turn round the +logger-head, the friction of the running line cut right into the white +oak, but the wonderful cord and hook still held their own. At last the +monster yielded, coming in at first inch by inch, then more rapidly, +till raised in triumph above the gunwhale--a yellow-tail six feet long. +I have caught this splendid fish (ELAGATIS BIPINNULATIS) many times +before and since then, but never did I see such a grand specimen as this +one--no, not by thirty or forty pounds. Then I got a giant cavalle. His +broad, shield-like body blazed hither and thither as I struggled to ship +him, but it was long ere he gave in to superior strength and excellence +of line and hook. + +Meanwhile, the others had been steadily increasing our cargo, until, +feeling that we had quite as much fish as would suffice us, besides +being really a good load, I suggested a move towards the ship. We were +laying within about half a mile of the shore, where the extremity of the +level land reached the cliffs. Up one of the well-worn tracks a fine, +fat goat was slowly creeping, stopping every now and then to browse upon +the short herbage that clung to the crevices of the rock. Without saying +a word, Polly the Kanaka slipped over the side, and struck out with +swift overhead strokes for the foot of the cliff. As soon as I saw what, +he was after, I shouted loudly for him to return, but he either could +not or would not hear me. The fellow's seal-like ability as a swimmer +was, of course, well known to me, but I must confess I trembled for +his life in such a weltering whirl of rock-torn sea as boiled among the +crags at the base of that precipice. He, however, evidently knew what +he was going to do, and, though taking risks which would have certainly +been fatal to an ordinary swimmer, was quite unafraid of the result. + +We all watched him breathlessly as he apparently headed straight for +the biggest outlying rock--a square, black boulder about the size of an +ordinary railway car. He came up to it on the summit of a foaming +wave; but just as I looked for him to be dashed to pieces against its +adamantine sides, he threw his legs into the air and disappeared. A +stealthy, satisfied smile glowed upon Samuela's rugged visage, and, as +he caught my eye, he said jauntily, "Polly savee too much. Lookee him +come on top one time!" I looked, and sure enough there was the daring +villain crawling up among the kelp far out of reach of the hungry +rollers. It was a marvellous exhibition of coolness and skill. + +Without waiting an instant, he began to stalk the goat, dodging amongst +the bushes with feet that clung to the steep sides of the cliff as well +as the animal's. Before he could reach her, she had winded him, and was +off up the track. He followed, without further attempt to hide himself; +but, despite his vigour and ability, would, I fancy, have stood a +microscopic chance of catching her had she not been heavy with kid. As +it was, he had all his work cut out for him. When he did catch her, she +made so fierce it struggle for life and liberty that, in the endeavour +to hold her, he missed his insecure foothold, and the pair came tumbling +over and over down the cliff in a miniature avalanche of stones and +dust. At the bottom they both lay quiet for a time; while I anxiously +waited, fearing the rash fool was seriously injured; but in a minute or +two he was on his feet again. + +Lashing the goat to his body, and ignoring her struggles, he crawled +out as far among the rocks as he could; then, at the approach of a big +breaker, he dived to meet it, coming up outside its threatening top like +a life-buoy. I pulled in, as near as I could venture, to pick him +up, and in a few minutes had him safely on board again, but suffering +fearfully. In his roll down the cliff he had been without his trousers, +which would have been some protection to him. Consequently, his thighs +were deeply cut and torn in many places, while the brine entering so +many wounds, though a grand styptic, must have tortured him unspeakably. +At any rate, though he was a regular stoic to bear pain, he fainted +while I was "dressing him down" in the most vigorous language I could +command for his foolhardy trick. Then we all realized what he must +be going through, and felt that he was getting all the punishment he +deserved, and more. The goat, poor thing! seemed none the worse for her +rough handling. + +The mate gave the signal to get back on board just as Polly revived, so +there were no inconvenient questions asked, and we returned alongside in +triumph, with such a cargo of fish as would have given us a good month's +pay all round could we have landed them at Billingsgate. Although +the mate had not succeeded as well as we, the catch of the two boats +aggregated half a ton, not a fish among the lot less than five pounds +weight, and one of a hundred and twenty--the yellow-tail aforesaid. As +soon as we reached the ship, the boats were run up, sails filled, and +away we lumbered again towards New Zealand. + +As the great mass of that solitary mountain faded away in the gathering +shades of evening, it was impossible to help remembering the sufferings +of that afflicted family, confined to those trembling, sulphurous, +ash-bestrewn rocks, amid gloom by day, and unnatural glare by night, for +all that weary while. And while I admit that there is to some people a +charm in being alone with nature, it is altogether another thing when +your solitude becomes compulsory, your paradise a prison from which you +cannot break away. There are many such nooks scattered about the ocean, +where men have hidden themselves away from the busy world, and been +forgotten by it; but few of them, I fancy, offer such potentialities of +terror as Sunday Island. + +We had hardly lost sight of the land, when Polly's capture gave birth +to a kid. This event was the most interesting thing that had happened +on board for a great while, and the funny little visitor would have +run great risk of being completely spoiled had he lived. But, to our +universal sorrow, the mother's milk failed--from want of green food, I +suppose--and we were obliged to kill the poor little chap to save him +from being starved to death. He made a savoury mess for some +whose appetite for flesh-meat was stronger than any sentimental +considerations. + +To an ordinary trader, the distance between the Kermadecs and the Bay of +Islands, New Zealand, roughly represents a couple of days' sail; but to +us, who were apparently incapable of hurry under any circumstances, it +meant a good week's bludgeoning the protesting waves before the grim +outliers of the Three Kings came into view. Even then, although the +distance was a mere bagatelle, it was another two days before we arrived +off that magnificent harbour where reposes the oldest township in New +Zealand--Russell, where rest the mortal remains of the first really +Pakeha Maori, but which, for some unaccountable reason, is still left +undeveloped and neglected, visited only by the wandering whalers (in +ever-decreasing numbers) and an occasional trim, business-like, and +gentlemanly man-o'-war, that, like a Guardsman strolling the West End in +mufti, stalks the sea with never an item of her smart rig deviating by a +shade from its proper set or sheer. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. THE BAY OF ISLANDS AND NEW ZEALAND COAST + +In a comparative new colony like New Zealand, where the marvellous +growth of the young state can be traced within living memory, from +the privations of the pioneer to the fully developed city with all +the machinery of our latest luxurious civilization, it is exceedingly +interesting to note how the principal towns have sprung up arbitrarily, +and without any heed to the intentions of the ruling powers. The +old-fashioned township of Kororarika, or Port Russell, is a case very +much in point. As we sailed in between the many islets from which the +magnificent bay takes its name, for all appearances to the contrary, we +might have been the first, discoverers. Not a house, not a sail, not a +boat, broke the loneliness and primeval look of the placid waters and +the adjacent shores. Not until we drew near the anchorage, and saw +upon opening up the little town the straight-standing masts of three +whale-ships, did anything appear to dispel the intense air of solitude +overhanging the whole. As we drew nearer, and rounded-to for mooring, +I looked expectantly for some sign of enterprise on the part of the +inhabitants--some tradesman's boat soliciting orders; some of the +population on the beach (there was no sign of a pier), watching the +visitor come to an anchor. Not a bit of it. The whole place seemed a +maritime sleepy hollow, the dwellers in which had lost all interest in +life, and had become far less energetic than the much-maligned Kanakas +in their dreamy isles of summer. + +Yet this was once intended for the capital of New Zealand. When the +large and splendidly-built city of Dunedin, Otago, was a barren bush, +haunted only by the "morepork" and the apteryx, Russell was humming with +vitality, her harbour busy with fleets of ships, principally whalers, +who found it the most convenient calling-place in the southern temperate +zone. Terrible scenes were enacted about its "blackguard beach," orgies +of wild debauchery and bloodshed indulged in by the half-savage and +utterly lawless crews of the whaleships. But it never attained to any +real importance. As a port of call for whalers, it enjoyed a certain +kind of prosperity; but when the South Sea fishery dwindled, Russell +shrank in immediate sympathy. It never had any vitality of its own, no +manufactures or products, unless the wretched coalmines adjacent, with +their dirty output, which is scoffed at by the grimiest tug afloat, +could be dignified by the name. + +Remembering, as I did, the beauty, the energy, and prosperity of the +great New Zealand ports, some of them with not a tithe of the natural +advantages of Russell, I felt amazed, almost indignant, at its +dead-and-alive appearance. + +Our anchor was no sooner down than the captains of the JAMES ARNOLD, +MATILDA SAYER, and CORAL lowered and came on board, eager to hear or to +tell such news as was going. As we had now grown to expect, all work was +over immediately the sails were fast and decks cleared up, so that we +were free to entertain our visitors. And a high old time we had of it +that afternoon! What with songs, dances, and yarns, the hours flew +by with lightning speed. Our Kanakas, too, were overjoyed to find +compatriots among the visitors, and settled down to a steady stream of +talk which lasted, without intermission, the whole night through. It was +a wonderful exhibition of tongue-wagging, though what it was all about +puzzled me greatly. + +Life on board those three ships, though described in glowing terms by +the visitors, was evidently not to be mentioned for comfort in the same +breath as ours. But we found that our late captain's fame as a "hard +citizen" was well known to all; so that it is only ordinary justice to +suppose that such a life as he led us was exceptional for even a Yankee +spouter. Our friends gave us a blood-curdling account of the Solander +whaling ground, which we were about to visit, the JAMES ARNOLD and CORAL +having spent a season there that cruise. I did not, however, pay much +attention to their yarns, feeling sure that, even if they were fact, +it would not help to brood over coming hardships, and inclined to give +liberal discount to most of their statements. The incessant chatter, +got wearisome at last, and I, for one, was not sorry when, at two in the +morning, our visitors departed to their several ships, and left us to +get what sleep still remained left to us. + +A pleasant expedition was planned for the next day. Our visit being +principally for wooding and watering, both of which it was necessary +for us to do ourselves, Captain Count showed his usual promptitude in +commencing at once. Permission having been obtained and, I suppose, +paid for, we set out with two boats and a plentiful supply of axes for a +well-wooded promontory to prepare a store of wood. Wood chopping is not +usually looked upon as a sailor's pastime; but we had had considerable +experience during the voyage, as a result of which most of us could +swing an axe in fine style. But the Kanakas beat us all hollow. +Delighted to get ashore again, pleased with the fine axes as children +with new toys, they laid about them in grand style, the young trees +falling right and left in scores. Anybody would have judged that we were +working piece-work, at so much a cord, the pile grew so fast. There +was such a quantity collected that, instead of lightering it off in the +boats, which is very rough and dirty usage for them, I constructed a +sort of raft with four large spars arranged in the form of an oblong, +placing an immense quantity of the smaller stuff in between. Upright +sticks were rudely lashed here and there, to keep the pile from bobbing +out underneath, and thus loaded we proceeded slowly to the ship with +sufficient wood for our wants brought in one journey. It was immediately +hoisted on board, sawn into convenient lengths, and stowed away, the +whole operation being completed, of getting between eight and ten tons +of firewood cut, ferried, and stowed, in less than eight hours. + +Next day was devoted to watering; but as I have elsewhere described that +necessary if prosaic occupation, I will not repeat the story. Sufficient +to say that the job was successfully "did" in the course of the day. + +All the work being accomplished for which we had come, it only remained +to give the crew "liberty." So the port watch, in their best (?) rig, +were mustered aft; each man received ten shillings, and away they went +in glee for the first genuine day's liberty since leaving Honolulu. For +although they had been much ashore in Vau Vau, that was not looked upon +in the same light as a day's freedom in a town where liquor might +be procured, and the questionable privilege of getting drunk taken +advantage of. Envious eyes watched their progress from the other ships, +but, much to my secret satisfaction, none of their crews were allowed +ashore at the same time. There were quite sufficient possibilities of +a row among our own crowd, without farther complications such as would +almost certainly have occurred had the strangers been let loose at +the same time. Unfortunately, to the ordinary sailor-man, the place +presented no other forms of amusement besides drinking, and I was +grieved to see almost the whole crowd, including the Kanakas, emerge +from the grog-shop plentifully supplied with bottles, and, seating +themselves on the beach, commence their carouse. The natives evinced the +greatest eagerness to get drunk, swallowing down the horrible "square +gin" as if it were water. They passed with the utmost rapidity through +all the stages of drunkenness. Before they had been ashore an hour, +most of them were lying like logs, in the full blaze of the sun, on the +beach. Seeing this, the captain suggested the advisability of bringing +them on board at once, as they were only exposed to robbery by the few +prowling Maories that loafed about the beach--a curious contrast to the +stately fellows met with in other parts of New Zealand. + +So we set to work, and brought them on board again, handing them over to +their compatriots by way of warning against similar excesses, although, +it must be confessed, that they were hardly to blame, with the example +of their more civilized shipmates before their eyes. Sam was energetic +in his condemnation of both the Kanakas for getting drunk, and the +captain for giving them any money wherewith to do so. The remainder +of the watch fortunately concluded their carouse without any serious +disorder. A few bruises bestowed upon one another, more in clumsy +horseplay than real fighting summed up the casualties among them. By ten +o'clock that evening we had them all safely on board again, ready for +sore heads and repentance in the morning. + +During the day I had evolved a scheme, which I had great hopes of +carrying out when our watch should be let loose on the morrow. When +morning came, and the liberty men received their money, I called them +together and unfolded my plan. Briefly, I proposed a sort of picnic at a +beautiful spot discovered during our wooding expedition. I was surprised +and very pleased at the eager way in which all, with the sole exceptions +of Tui and his fellow-harpooner, a Portuguese, fell in with my +suggestions. Without any solicitation on my part, my Kanakas brought me +their money, begging me to expend it for them, as they did not know how, +and did not want to buy gin. + +Under such favourable auspices as these, we landed shortly after eight +a.m., making a bee-line for the only provision shop the place boasted. +Here we laid in a stock of such savouries as we had long been strangers +to, both eatables and drinkables, although I vetoed fire-water +altogether. Beer in bottle was substituted, at my suggestion, as being, +if we must have drinks of that nature, much the least harmful to men +in a hot country, besides, in the quantity that we were able to take, +non-intoxicant. We also took tea, sugar, milk, and a kettle, Thus +furnished, we struck for the country, merry as a group of schoolboys, +making the quiet air ring again with song, shout, and laughter--all +of which may seem puerile and trivial in the extreme; but having seen +liberty men ashore in nearly every big port in the world, watched the +helpless, dazed look with which they wander about, swinging hands, bent +shoulders, and purposeless rolling gait, I have often fervently wished +that some one would take a party of them for a ramble with a definite +purpose, helping them to a little enjoyment, instead of them falling, +from sheer lack of knowing what else to do, into some dirty, darksome +gin-mill, to be besotted, befooled, and debased. + +I do earnestly wish that some of the good folk in London and Liverpool, +who are wringing their hands for want of something to do among their +fellow-men, would pay a visit to sailor-town for the purpose of getting +up a personally-conducted party of sailors to see the sights worth +seeing. It is a cheap form of pleasure, even if they paid all expenses, +though that would not be likely. They would have an uphill job at first, +for the sailor has been so long accustomed to being preyed upon by the +class he knows, and neglected by everybody else except the few good +people who want to preach to him, that he would probably, in a sheepish +shame-faced sort of way, refuse to have any "truck" with you, as he +calls it. If the "sailors' home" people were worth their salt, they +would organize expeditions by carriage to such beautiful places as--in +London, for instance--Hampton Court, Zoological Gardens, Crystal Palace, +Epping Forest, and the like, with competent guides and good catering +arrangements. But no; the sailor is allowed to step outside the door of +the "home" into the grimy, dismal streets with nothing open to him +but the dance-house and brothel on one side, and the mission hall or +reading-room on the other. God forbid that I should even appear to sneer +at missions to seamen; nothing is farther from my intention; but I do +feel that sailors need a little healthy human interest to be taken in +providing some pleasure for them, and that there are unorthodox ways of +"missioning" which are well worth a trial. + +I once took a party (while I was an A.B.) from Wells-street Home to the +South Kensington Museum. There were six of them--a Frenchman, a Dane, +a Russian Finn, two Englishmen, and an Irishman. Though continually +sailing from London for years, this was the first occasion they had ever +been west of Aldgate. The only mistake I made was in going too deep +at one step. The journey from Shadwell to South Kensington, under the +guidance of one familiar, through the hardest personal experiences, with +every corner of the vast network, was quite enough for one day. So that +by the time we entered the Museum they were surfeited temporarily with +sight-seeing, and not able to take in the wonders of the mighty place. +Seeing this, I did not persist, but, after some rest and refreshment, +led them across the road among the naval models. Ah! it was a rare treat +to see them there. For if there is one thing more than another which +interests a sailor, it is a well-made model of a ship. Sailors are +model-makers almost by nature, turning out with the most meagre outfit +of tools some wonderfully-finished replicas of the vessels is which they +have sailed. And the collection of naval models at South Kensington is, +I suppose, unsurpassed in the world for the number and finish of the +miniature vessels there shown. + +Our day was a great success, never to be forgotten by those poor +fellows, whose only recreation previously had been to stroll listlessly +up and down the gloomy, stone-flagged hall of the great barracks until +sheer weariness drove them out into the turbid current of the "Highway," +there to seek speedily some of the dirty haunts where the "runner" and +the prostitute: awaited them. + +But I have wandered far from the Bay of Islands while thus chattering +of the difficulties that beset the path of rational enjoyment for the +sailor ashore. Returning to that happy day, I remember vividly how, +just after we got clear of the town, we were turning down a lane +between hedgerows wonderfully like one of our own country roads, when +something--I could not tell what--gripped my heart and sent a lump into +my throat. Tears sprang unbidden to my eyes, and I trembled from head +to foot with emotion. Whatever could it be? Bewildered for the moment, +I looked around, and saw a hedge laden with white hawthorn blossom, the +sweet English "may." Every Londoner knows how strongly that beautiful +scent appeals to him, even when wafted from draggled branches borne +slumwards by tramping urchins who have been far afield despoiling the +trees of their lovely blossoms, careless of the damage they have been +doing. But to me, who had not seen a bit for years, the flood of feeling +undammed by that odorous breath, was overwhelming. I could hardly +tear myself away from the spot, and, when at last I did, found myself +continually turning to try and catch another whiff of one of the most +beautiful scents in the world. + +Presently we came to a cottage flooded from ground to roof-ridge with +blossoms of scarlet geranium. There must have been thousands of them, +all borne by one huge stem which was rooted by the door of the house. A +little in front of it grew a fuchsia, twelve or fourteen feet high, with +wide-spreading branches, likewise loaded with handsome blooms; while the +ground beneath was carpeted with the flowers shaken from their places by +the rude wind. + +So, through scenes of loveliness that appealed even to the dusky +Kanakas, we trudged gaily along, arriving pretty well fagged at our +destination--a great glade of tenderest green, surrounded by magnificent +trees on three sides; the fourth opening on to a dazzling white beach +sloping gently down to the sea. Looking seaward, amidst the dancing, +sparkling wavelets, rose numerous tree-clothed islets, making a +perfectly beautiful seascape. On either side of the stretch of beach +fantastic masses of rock lay about, as if scattered by some tremendous +explosion. Where the sea reached them, they were covered with untold +myriads of oysters, ready to be eaten and of delicious flavour. + +What need to say more? With oyster-feeding, fishing, bathing, +tree-climbing, tea-making, song-singing the hours fled with pitiless +haste, so that, before we had half emptied the brimming cup of joys +proffered us, the slanting rays of the setting sun warned us to return +lest we should get "hushed" in the dark. We came on board rejoicing, +laden with spoils of flowers and fish, with two-thirds of our money +still in our pockets, and full of happy memories of one of the most +delightful days in our whole lives. + +A long night's sound sleep was rudely broken into in the morning by the +cry of "Man the windlass." Having got all we wanted, we were bound away +to finish, if luck were with us, the lading of our good ship from the +teeming waters of the Solander grounds. I know the skipper's hopes were +high, for he never tired of telling how, when in command of a new ship, +he once fished the whole of his cargo--six thousand barrels of sperm +oil--from the neighbourhood to which we were now bound. He always +admitted, though, that the weather he experienced was unprecedented. +Still, nothing could shake his belief in the wonderful numbers of sperm +whales to be found on the south coasts of New Zealand, which faith was +well warranted, since he had there won from the waves, not only the +value of his new ship, but a handsome profit in addition, all in one +season. + +Hearing this kind of thing every day made me feel quite hungry to reach +the battle-field; but, for reasons which doubtless were excellent, +although I cannot pretend to explain them, we started north about, which +not only added nearly one hundred miles to the distance we had to go, +but involved us in a gale which effectually stopped our progress for +a week. It was our first taste of the gentle zephyrs which waft their +sweetness over New Zealand, after sweeping over the vast, bleak, +iceberg-studded expanse of the Antarctic Ocean. Our poor Kanakas were +terribly frightened, for the weather of their experience, except on the +rare occasions when they are visited by the devastating hurricane, is +always fine, steady, and warm. For the first time in their lives they +saw hail, and their wonder was too great for words. But the cold was +very trying, not only to them, but to us, who had been so long in the +tropics that our blood was almost turned to water. The change was nearly +as abrupt as that so often experienced by our seamen, who at the rate of +sixteen knots an hour plunge from a temperature of eighty degrees to one +of thirty degrees in about three days. + +We, with the ready adaptability of seamen, soon got accustomed to the +bleak, bitter weather, but the Kanakas wilted like hothouse plants under +its influence. They were well fed and well clothed, yet they seemed +to shrivel up, looking thinner every day, several of them getting deep +coughs strongly suggestive of a cemetery. It was no easy task to get +them to work, or even move, never a one of them lumbering aloft but I +expected him to come down by the run. This was by no means cheering, +when it was remembered what kind of a campaign lay before us. Captain +Count seemed to be quite easy in his mind, however, and as we had +implicit confidence in his wisdom and judgment, we were somewhat +reassured. + +The gale at last blew itself out, the wind veering to the northward +again, with beautiful, spring-like weather, just cool enough to be +pleasant, and, withal, favourable for getting to our destination. We +soon made the land again about New Plymouth, jogging along near enough +to the coast to admire the splendid rugged scenery of the Britain of +the south. All hands were kept busily employed preparing for stormy +weather--reeving new running-gear, bending the strongest suit of sails, +and looking well to all the whaling gear. + +In this active exercise of real sailor-work, the time, though long for +an ordinary passage, passed quickly and pleasantly away, so that when +we hauled round the massive promontory guarding the western entrance +to Foveaux Straits, we were almost surprised to find ourselves there so +soon. + +This, then, was the famous and dreaded Solander whaling ground. Almost +in the centre of the wide stretch of sea between Preservation Inlet, +on the Middle Island, and the western end of the South, or Stewart's +Island, rose a majestic mass of wave-beaten rock some two thousand +feet high, like a grim sentinel guarding the Straits. The extent of the +fishing grounds was not more than a hundred and fifty square miles, and +it was rarely that the vessels cruised over the whole of it. The most +likely area for finding whales was said to be well within sight of the +Solander Rock itself, but keeping on the western side of it. + +It was a lovely day when we first entered upon our cruising ground, a +gentle north-east wind blowing, the sky a deep, cloudless blue, so +that the rugged outline of Stewart's Island was distinctly seen at its +extreme distance from us. To the eastward the Straits narrowed rapidly, +the passage at the other end being scarcely five miles wide between the +well-known harbour of the Bluff, the port of Invercargill, and a long +rocky island which almost blocked the strait. This passage, though +cutting off a big corner, not only shortening the distance from the +westward considerably, but oftentimes saving outward bounders a great +deal of heavy weather off the Snares to the south of Stewart's Island, +is rarely used by sailing-ships, except coasters; but steamers regularly +avail themselves of it, being independent of its conflicting currents +and baffling winds. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXV. ON THE SOLANDER GROUNDS + +Our opening day was an auspicious one. We had not been within the +cruising radius more than four hours before the long-silent; cry of +"Blo-o-o-w!" resounded from the mainmast head. It was a lone whale, +apparently of large size, though spouting almost as feebly as a calf. +But that, I was told by the skipper, was nothing to go by down here. +He believed right firmly that there were no small whales to be found in +these waters at all. He averred that in all his experience he had never +seen a cow-cachalot anywhere around Stewart's Island, although, as +usual, he did no theorizing as to the reason why. + +Eagerly we took to the boats and made for our first fish, setting +alongside of him in less than half an hour from our first glimpse of his +bushy breath. As the irons sank into his blubber, he raised himself +a little, and exposed a back like a big ship bottom up. Verily, the +skipper's words were justified, for we had seen nothing bigger of the +whale-kind that voyage. His manner puzzled us not a little. He had not +a kick in him. Complacently, as though only anxious to oblige, he +laid quietly while we cleared for action, nor did he show any signs +of resentment or pain while he was being lanced with all the vigour +we possessed. He just took all our assaults with perfect quietude and +exemplary patience, so that we could hardly help regarding him with +great suspicion, suspecting some deep scheme of deviltry hidden by +this abnormally sheep-like demeanour. But nothing happened. In the same +peaceful way he died, without the slightest struggle sufficient to raise +even an eddy on the almost smooth sea. + +Leaving the mate by the carcass, we returned on board, the skipper +hailing us immediately on our arrival to know what was the matter with +him. We, of course, did not know, neither did the question trouble us. +All we were concerned about was the magnanimous way in which he, so to +speak, made us a present of himself, giving us no more trouble to secure +his treasure than as if he had been a lifeless thing. We soon had him +alongside, finding, upon ranging him by the ship, that he was over +seventy feet long, with a breadth of bulk quite in proportion to such a +vast length. + +Cutting-in commenced at once, for fine weather there was by no means to +be wasted, being of rare occurrence and liable at the shortest notice to +be succeeded by a howling gale. Our latest acquisition, however, was of +such gigantic proportions that the decapitation alone bade fair to take +us all night. A nasty cross swell began to get up, too--a combination of +north-westerly and south-westerly which, meeting at an angle where the +Straits began, raised a curious "jobble," making the vessel behave in +a drunken, uncertain manner. Sailors do not mind a ship rolling or +pitching, any more than a rider minds the motion of his horse; but when +she does both at once, with no approach to regularity in her movements, +it makes them feel angry with her. What, then, must our feelings +have been under such trying conditions, with that mountain of matter +alongside to which so much sheer hard labour had to be done, while the +sky was getting greasy and the wind beginning to whine in that doleful +key which is the certain prelude to a gale? + +Everybody worked like Chinamen on a contract, as if there was no such +feeling as fatigue. Little was said, but we all realized that unless +this job was got over before what was brooding burst upon us, we should +certainly lose some portion of our hard-won whale. Still, our utmost +possible was all we could do; and when at daylight the head was hauled +alongside for cutting up, the imminent possibility of losing it, though +grievous to think of, worried nobody, for all had done their best. The +gale had commenced in business-like fashion, but the sea was horrible. +It was almost impossible to keep one's footing on the stage. At times +the whole mass of the head would be sucked down by the lee roll of +the ship, and go right under her keel, the fluke-chain which held it +grinding and straining as if it would tear the bows out of her. Then +when she rolled back again the head would rebound to the surface right +away from the ship, where we could not reach it to cut. Once or twice it +bounced up beneath our feet, striking the stage and lifting it with its +living load several inches, letting it fall again with a jerk that made +us all cling for dear life to our precarious perch. + +In spite of these capers, we managed to get the junk off the head. It +was a tremendous lift for us; I hardly think we had ever raised such a +weight before. The skipper himself estimated it at fifteen tons, which +was no small load for the tackles in fine weather, but with the ship +tumbling about in her present fashion, it threatened to rip the mainmast +out by the roots--not, of course, the dead-weight strain; but when it +was nearly aboard, her sudden lee wallow sometimes floated the whole +mass, which the next instant, on the return roll, would be torn out of +water, with all the force of the ship suddenly rolling the other way. +Every splinter, every rope-yarn of her groaned again under this savage +treatment; but so splendid was her construction that she never made a +drop of water more than just sufficient to sweeten the limbers. + +It was with great and genuine satisfaction that we saw it at last safely +lowered on deck and secured. But when we turned our attention to the +case, which, still attached to the skull, battered alongside, any chance +of saving it was at once seen to be hopeless. Indeed, as the old man +said, it was time for us to "up stick" and run for shelter. We had been +too fully occupied to notice the gradual increase of the wind; but when +we did, there was no gainsaying the fact that it was blowing a very +stiff breeze (ANGLICE, a violent gale). Fortunately for us, it was from +the westward, fair for the harbour of Port William, on the Stewart's +Island side of the Straits, so that we were free from the apprehension +of being blown out to sea or on a jagged lee shore. + +While we were thus thinking during a brief pause to take breath, the old +packet herself solved our last difficulty in emphatic fashion. She +gave a tremendous lee lurch, which would inevitably have destroyed the +cutting stage if we had not hoisted it, driving right over the head, +which actually rose to the surface to windward, having passed under her +bottom. The weather roll immediately following was swift and sudden. +From the nature of things, it was evident that something must give way +this time. It did. For the first and only time in my experience, +the fluke-chain was actually torn through the piece to which it was +fast--two feet of solid gristle ripped asunder. Away went the head with +its L150 to L200 worth of pure spermaceti, disappearing from view almost +immediately. + +It had no sooner gone than more sail was set, the yards were squared, +and the vessel kept away up the Straits for shelter. It was a big +improvement, for she certainly had begun to make dirty weather of +it, and no wonder. Now, however, running almost dead before the gale, +getting into smoother water at every fathom, she was steady as a rock, +allowing us to pursue our greasy avocation in comparative comfort. The +gale was still increasing, although now blowing with great fury; but, to +our satisfaction, it was dry and not too cold. Running before it, +too, lessened our appreciation of its force; besides which, we were +exceedingly busy clearing away the enormous mass of the junk, which, +draining continually, kept the decks running with oil. + +We started to run up the Straits at about ten a.m. At two p.m. we +suddenly looked up from our toil, our attention called by a sudden lull +in the wind. We had rounded Saddle Point, a prominent headland, which +shut off from us temporarily the violence of the gale. Two hours later +we found ourselves hauling up into the pretty little harbour of Port +William, where, without taking more than a couple of hands off the work, +the vessel was rounded-to and anchored with quite as little fuss as +bringing a boat alongside a ship. It was the perfection of seamanship. + +Once inside the bay, a vessel was sheltered from all winds, the land +being high and the entrance intricate. The water was smooth as a +mill-pond, though the leaden masses of cloud flying overhead and the +muffled roar of the gale told eloquently of the unpleasant state affairs +prevailing outside. Two whale-ships lay here--the TAMERLANE, of New +Bedford, and the CHANCE, of Bluff Harbour. I am bound to confess that +there was a great difference is appearance between the Yankee and the +colonial--very much in favour of the former. She was neat, smart, and +seaworthy, looking as if just launched; but the CHANCE looked like some +poor old relic of a bygone day, whose owners, unable to sell her, and +too poor to keep her in repair, were just letting her go while keeping +up the insurance, praying fervently each day that she might come to +grief, and bring them a little profit at last. + +But although it is much safer to trust appearances in ships than in +men, any one who summed up the CHANCE from her generally outworn and +poverty-stricken looks would have been, as I was, "way off." Old she +was, with an indefinite antiquity, carelessly rigged, and vilely unkempt +as to her gear, while outside she did not seem to have had a coat +of paint for a generation. She looked what she really was--the sole +survivor of the once great whaling industry of New Zealand. For although +struggling bay whaling stations did exist in a few sheltered places far +away from the general run of traffic, the trade itself might truthfully +be said to be practically extinct. The old CHANCE alone, like some +shadow of the past, haunted Foveaux Straits, and made a better income +for her fortunate owners than any of the showy, swift coasting steamers +that rushed contemptuously past her on their eager way. + +In many of the preceding pages I have, though possessing all an +Englishman's pride in the prowess of mine own people, been compelled +to bear witness to the wonderful smartness and courage shown by the +American whalemen, to whom their perilous calling seems to have become +a second nature. And on other occasions I have lamented that our own +whalers, either at home or in the colonies, never seemed to take so +kindly to the sperm whale fishery as the hardy "down Easters," who first +taught them the business; carried it on with increasing success, +in spite of their competition and the depredations of the ALABAMA; +flourished long after the English fishery was dead; and even now +muster a fleet of ships engaged in the same bold and hazardous calling. +Therefore, it is the more pleasant to me to be able to chronicle some of +the doings of Captain Gilroy, familiarly known as "Paddy," the master +of the CHANCE, who was unsurpassed as a whale-fisher or a seaman by any +Yankee that ever sailed from Martha's Vineyard. + +He was a queer little figure of a man--short, tubby, with scanty red +hair, and a brogue thick as pea-soup. Eccentric in most things, he was +especially so in his dress, which he seemed to select on the principle +of finding the most unfitting things to wear. Rumour credited him with a +numerous half-breed progeny--certainly he was greatly mixed up with the +Maories, half his crew being made up of his dusky friends and relations +by MARRIAGE. Overflowing with kindliness and good temper, his ship was +a veritable ark of refuge for any unfortunate who needed help, which +accounted for the numerous deserters from Yankee whalers who were to be +found among his crew. Such whaling skippers as our late commander hated +him with ferocious intensity; and but for his Maori and half-breed +bodyguard, I have little doubt he would have long before been killed. +Living as he had for many years on that storm-beaten coast, he had +become, like his Maories, familiar with every rock and tree in fog or +clear, by night or day; he knew them, one might almost say, as the seal +knows them, and feared them as little. His men adored him. They believed +him capable of anything in the way of whaling, and would as soon have +thought of questioning the reality of daylight as the wisdom of his +decisions. + +I went on board the evening of, our arrival, hearing some rumours of the +doings of the old CHANCE and her crew, also with the idea that perhaps +I might find some countrymen among his very mixed crowd. The first man I +spoke to was Whitechapel to the backbone, plainly to be spotted as such +as if it had been tattooed on his forehead. Making myself at home with +him, I desired to know what brought him so far from the "big smoke," and +on board a whaler of all places in the world. He told me he had been a +Pickford's van-driver, but had emigrated to New Zealand, finding that +he did not at all like himself in the new country. Trying to pick and +choose instead of manfully choosing a pick and shovel for a beginning, +he got hard up. During one of Captain Gilroy's visits to the Bluff, +he came across my ex-drayman, looking hungry and woebegone. Invited on +board to have a feed, he begged to be allowed to remain; nor, although +his assistance was not needed, was he refused. "An nar," he said, his +face glowing with conscious pride, "y'ort ter see me in a bloomin' +bowt. I ain't a-goain' ter say as I kin fling wun o' them 'ere bloomin' +'arpoones like ar bowt-steerers kin; but I kin do my bit o' grawft wiv +enny on 'em--don'tchu make no bloomin' herror." The glorious incongruity +of the thing tickled me immensely; but I laughed more heartily still +when on going below I was hailed as "Wot cher, chummy; 'ow yer hoppin' +up?" by another barbarian from the wilds of Spitalfields, who, from the +secure shelter of his cats'-meat round in 'Oxton, had got adrift, and, +after being severely buffeted by tempestuous ill-fortune, had finally +found himself in the comfortable old CHANCE, a haven of rest in the +midst of storms. There were sixteen white men on board the CHANCE, +including the skipper, drawn as usual from various European and American +sources, the rest of her large crew of over forty all told being made up +of Maories and half-breeds. One common interest united them, making them +the jolliest crowd I ever saw--their devotion to their commander. There +was here to be found no jealousy of the Maories being officers and +harpooners, no black looks or discontented murmuring; all hands seemed +particularly well satisfied with their lot in all its bearings; so that, +although the old tub was malodorous enough to turn even a pretty strong +stomach, it was a pleasure to visit her cheerful crowd for the sake of +their enlivening society. + +Of course, under our present circumstances, with the debris of our +late enormous catch filling every available space and loudly demanding +attention, we had little time to spare for ship visiting. Some boat or +other from the two ships was continually alongside of us, though, for +until the gale abated they could not get out to the grounds again, and +time hung heavy on their hands. The TAMERLANE's captain avoided Paddy as +if he were a leper--hated the sight of him, in fact, as did most of his +CONFRERES; but our genial skipper, whose crew were every whit as well +treated and contented as the CHANCE's, and who therefore needed not to +dread losing them, met the little philanthropist on the most friendly +terms. + +The first fine weather, which came four days after our arrival, both +our harbour mates cleared out. Characteristically, the CHANCE was away +first, before daylight had quite asserted itself, and while the bases of +the cliffs and tops of the rocks were as yet hidden in dense wreaths of +white haze. Paddy lolled on the taff-rail near the wheel, which was held +by an immense half-breed, who leant back and carried on a desultory, +familiar conversation with his skipper; the rest of the crew were +scattered about the decks, apparently doing what they liked in any +manner they chose. The anchor was being catted, sails going up, and +yards being trimmed; but, to observers like us, no guiding spirit was +noticeable. It seemed to work all right, and the old ark herself looked +as if she was as intelligent as any of them; but the sight was not an +agreeable one to men accustomed to discipline. The contrast when the +TAMERLANE came along an hour or so after was emphatic. Every man at +his post; every order carried out with the precision of clockwork; +the captain pacing the quarter-deck as if she were a line-of-battle +ship--here the airs put on were almost ludicrous in the other direction. +Although she was only "a good jump" long, as we say, whenever an order +was given, it was thundered out as if the men were a mile away each +officer appearing to vie with the others as to who could bellow the +loudest. That was carrying things to the opposite extreme, and almost +equally objectionable to merchant seamen. + +We were thus left alone to finish our trying-out except for such company +as was afforded by the only resident's little schooner, in which he went +oyster-dredging. It was exceedingly comfortable in the small harbour, +and the fishing something to remember all one's life. That part of New +Zealand is famous for a fish something like a bream, but with a longer +snout, and striped longitudinally with black and yellow. I am ignorant +of any polysyllabic prefix for it, only knowing it by its trivial and +local appellation of the "trumpeter," from the peculiar sound it makes +when out of water. But no other fish out of the innumerable varieties +which I have sampled in all parts of the world could compare with the +trumpeter for flavour and delicacy. These qualities are well known to +the inhabitants of the large towns, who willingly pay high prices for +the scanty supply of these delicious fish which they are able to obtain. +Of other succulent fish there was a great variety, from the majestic +"grouper," running up to over a hundredweight, down to the familiar +flounder. Very little fishing could be done at night. Just as day was +dawning was the ideal time for this enticing sport. As soon as the first +few streaks of delicate light enlivened the dull horizon, a stray nibble +or two gladdened the patient fishermen; then as the light strengthened +the fun became general, and in about an hour enough fish would be caught +to provide all hands with for the day. + +One morning, when a stark calm left, the surface of the bay as smooth +as a mirror, I was watching a few stealthily-gliding barracouta sneaking +about over the plainly visible bottom, though at a depth of seven or +eight fathoms. Ordinarily, these fish must be taken with a live bait; +but, remembering my experience with the dolphin, I determined to try a +carefully arranged strip of fish from one recently caught. In precisely +the same way as the dolphin, these long, snaky rascals carefully tested +the bait, lying still for sometimes as long as two minutes with the bait +in their mouths, ready to drop it out on the first intimation that it +was not a detached morsel. After these periods of waiting the artful +creature would turn to go, and a sudden jerk of the line then reminded +him that he was no longer a free agent, but mounting at headlong speed +to a strange bourne whence he never returned to tell the tale. My catch +that lovely morning scaled over a hundredweight in less than an hour, +none of the fish being less than ten pounds in weight. + +The Maories have quite an original way of catching barracouta. They +prepare a piece of "rimu" (red pine) about three inches long, by an +inch broad, and a quarter of an inch thick. Through one end of this they +drive an inch nail bent upwards, and filed to a sharp point. The other +end is fastened to about a fathom of stout fishing-line, which is in +turn secured to the end of a five-foot pole. Seated in a boat with sail +set, they slip along until a school of barracouta is happened upon. Then +the peak of the sail is dropped, so as to deaden the boat's way, while +the fishermen ply their poles with a sidelong sweep that threshes the +bit of shining red through the water, making it irresistibly attractive +to a struggling horde of ravenous fish. One by one, as swiftly as the +rod can be wielded, the lithe forms drop off the barbless hook into the +boat, till the vigorous arm can no longer respond to the will of the +fisherman, or the vessel will hold no more. + +Such were the goodly proportions of this first Solander whale of ours +that, in spite of the serious loss of the case, we made thirteen and a +half tuns of oil. When the fifteen huge casks containing it were stowed +in their final positions, they made an imposing show, inspiring all of +us with visions of soon being homeward bound. For the present we were, +perforce, idle; for the wind had set in to blow steadily and strongly +right up the Straits, preventing any attempts to get out while it +lasted. The time did not hang heavy on our hands, for the surrounding +country offered many attractions, which we were allowed to take full +advantage of. Spearing eels and flounders at night by means of a cresset +hung out over the boat's bow, as she was slowly sculled up the long, +shallow creeks, was a favourite form of amusement. Mr. Cross, the +resident, kindly allowed us to raid his garden, where the ripe fruit was +rotting by the bushel for want of consumers. We needed no pressing; +for fruit, since we left Vau Vau, of any kind had not come in our +way; besides, these were "homey"--currants, gooseberries, +strawberries--delightful to see, smell, and taste. So it came to pass +that we had a high old time, unmarred by a single regrettable incident, +until, after an enforced detention of twenty days, we were able to get +to sea again. + +Halfway down the Straits we sighted the CHANCE, all hands ripping +the blubber off a sizeable whale in the same "anyhow" fashion as they +handled their ship. They were in high glee, giving us a rousing cheer as +we passed them on our westward course. Arriving on the ground, we found +a goodly company of fine ships, which I could not help thinking too many +for so small an area. During our absence, the TAMERLANE had been joined +by the ELIZA ADAMS, the MATILDA SAYER, the CORAL, and the RAINBOW; and +it was evident that no whale venturing within the radius of the Solander +in the daytime would stand much chance of escaping such a battery of +eager eyes. Only three days elapsed after our arrival when whales +were seen. For the first time, I realized how numerous those gigantic +denizens of the sea really are. As far as the eye could reach, extending +all round one-half of the horizon, the sea appeared to be alive with +spouts--all sperm whales, all bulls of great size. The value of this +incredible school must have been incalculable. Subsequent experience +satisfied me that such a sight was by no means uncommon here; in fact, +"lone whales" or small "pods" were quite the exception. + +Well, we all "waded in," getting, some two, some one whale apiece, +according to the ability of the crews or the fortune of war. Only one +fell to our lot in the CACHALOT, but it was just as well. We had hardly, +got him fast by the fluke alongside when it began to pipe up from the +north-east. In less than one watch the sea was fairly smoking with the +fierceness of the wind. We were unable to get in anywhere, being, with a +whale alongside, about as handy as a barge loaded with a haystack; while +those unfortunate beggars that had two whales fast to them were utterly +helpless as far as independent locomotion went, unless they could run +dead before the wind. Every ship made all snug aloft, and hoisted the +boats to the top notch of the cranes, fully anticipating a long, hard +struggle with the elements before they got back to the cruising ground +again. Cutting-in was out of the question in such weather; the only +thing possible was to hope for a shift of wind before she got too far +out, or a break in the weather. Neither of these events was probable, as +all frequenters of South New Zealand know, bad weather having there an +unhappy knack of being as persistent as fine weather is brief. + +Night drew on as our forlorn and heavily handicapped little fleet bore +steadily seaward with their burdens, the angry, ever-increasing sea, +battering at us vengefully, while the huge carcasses alongside tore and +strained at their fastenings as if they would rend the ships asunder. +Slowly our companions faded from sight as the murky sky shut down on us, +until in lonely helplessness we drifted on our weary way out into the +vast, inhospitable Southern Ocean. Throughout the dark and stormy night +our brave old ship held on her unwilling way right gallantly, making no +water, in spite of the fearful strain to which she was subjected, nor +taking any heavy sea over all. Morning broke cheerlessly enough. No +abatement in the gale or change in its direction; indeed, it looked like +lasting a month. Only one ship was visible far to leeward of us, and +she was hull down. Our whale was beginning to swell rapidly, already +floating at least three feet above the surface instead of just awash, +as when newly killed. The skipper eyed it gloomily, seeing the near +prospect of its entire loss, but he said nothing. In fact, very little +was said; but the stories we had heard in the Bay of Islands came +back to us with significant force now that their justification was so +apparent. + +Hour after hour went by without any change whatever, except in the +whale, which, like some gradually filling balloon, rose higher and +higher, till at nightfall its bulk was appalling. All through the night +those on deck did little else but stare at its increasing size, which +when morning dawned again, was so great that the animal's bilge rode +level with the ship's rail, while in her lee rolls it towered above +the deck like a mountain. The final scene with it was now a question +of minutes only, so most of us, fascinated by the strange spectacle, +watched and waited. Suddenly, with a roar like the bursting of a dam, +the pent-up gases tore their furious way out of the distended carcass, +hurling the entrails in one horrible entanglement widespread over +the sea. It was well for us that it was to leeward and a strong gale +howling; for even then the unutterable foetor wrought its poisonous way +back through that fierce, pure blast, permeating every nook of the ship +with its filthy vapour till the stoutest stomach there protested in +unmistakable terms against such vile treatment. Knowing too well that +the blubber was now worthless, the skipper gave orders to cut the +corrupt mass adrift. This was speedily effected by a few strokes of +a spade through the small. Away went eight hundred pounds' worth of +oil--another sacrifice to the exigencies of the Solander, such as had +gained for it so evil a reputation. + +Doubtless a similar experience had befallen all the other ships, so that +the aggregate loss must have run into thousands of pounds, every penny +of which might have been saved had steam been available. + +That gale lasted, with a few short lulls, for five days longer. When at +last it took off, and was succeeded by fine weather, we were so far +to the southward that we might have fetched the Aucklands in another +twenty-four hours. But, to our great relief, a strong southerly breeze +set in, before which, under every rag of canvas, we sped north again. + +Steady and reliable as ever, that good south wind carried us back to +our old cruising ground ere it blew itself out, and we resumed our usual +tactics as if nothing had happened, being none the worse as regards +equipment for our adventures. Not so fortunate our companions, who at +the same time as ourselves were thrust out into the vast Southern Ocean, +helplessly burdened and exposed defenceless to all the ferocity of that +devouring gale, Two of them were here prowling about, showing evident +signs of their conflict in the battered state of their hulls. The +glaring whiteness of new planking in many places along the bulwarks told +an eloquent story of seas bursting on board carrying all before them, +while empty cranes testified to the loss of a boat in both of them. As +soon as we came near enough, "gamming" commenced, for all of us were +anxious to know how each other had fared. + +As we anticipated, every whale was lost that had been caught that day. +The disappointment was in nowise lessened by the knowledge that, with +his usual good fortune Captain Gilroy had not only escaped all the bad +weather, but while we were being threshed within an inch of our lives +down in the bitter south, he was calmly trying-out his whale (which we +had seen him with on our outward journey) in the sheltered haven of +Port William. Many and deep were the curses bestowed upon him by the +infuriated crews of those two ships, although he had certainly done +them no harm. But the sight of other people's good fortune is gall and +wormwood to a vast number of people, who seem to take it as a personal +injury done to themselves. + +Only two days elapsed, however, before we again saw an immense school +of sperm whales, and each ship succeeded in securing one. We made no +attempt to get more this time, nor do I think either of the others did; +at any rate, one each was the result of the day's work. They were, as +usual, of huge size and apparently very fat. At the time we secured our +fish alongside, a fresh north-westerly wind was blowing, the weather +being clear and beautiful as heart could wish. But instead of commencing +at once to cut-in, Captain Count gave orders to pile on all sail and +keep her away up the Straits. He was evidently determined to take no +more chances, but, whenever opportunity offered, to follow the example +set by the wily old skipper of the CHANCE. The other ships both started +to cut-in at once, tempted, doubtless, by the settled appearance of the +weather, and also perhaps from their hardly concealed dislike of going +into port. We bowled along at a fine rate, towing our prize, that +plunged and rolled by our side in eccentric style, almost as if still +alive. Along about midnight we reached Saddle Point, where there was +some shelter from the sea which rolled up the wide open strait, and +there we anchored. + +Leaving me and a couple of Kanakas on watch, the captain, and all hands +besides, went below for a little sleep. My instructions were to call the +captain if the weather got at all ugly-looking, so that we might run +in to Port William at once, but he did not wish to do so if our present +position proved sufficiently sheltered. He had not been below an hour +before there was a change for the worse. That greasy, filmy haze was +again drawn over the clear blue of the sky, and the light scud began to +fly overhead at an alarmingly rapid rate. So at four bells I called him +again. He came on deck at once, and after one look round ordered +the hands up to man the windlass. By eight bells (four a.m.) we were +rounding the frowning rocks at the entrance of Port William, and +threading our way between the closely-set, kelp-hidden dangers as if it +were broadest, dearest daylight. At 4.30 we let go the anchor again, +and all hands, except the regular "anchor-watch," bolted below to their +bunks again like so many rabbits. + +It was very comfortable, cutting-in a sperm whale in harbour, after +the dire difficulty of performing the same operation in a seaway. And, +although it may seem strange, this was the first occasion that voyage +that I had had a really good opportunity of closely studying the whale's +anatomy. Consequently the work was exceedingly interesting, and, in +spite of the labour involved, I was almost sorry when the job was done. +Under the present favourable circumstances we were ready to cut the +carcass adrift shortly after midday, the head, of course, having +been taken off first. Just after we started to cut-in a boat appeared +alongside with six Maories and half-breeds on board. Their leader came +up and civilly asked the skipper whether he intended doing anything with +the carcass. Upon being promptly answered in the negative, he said that +he and his companions proposed hooking on to the great mass when we cut +it adrift, towing it ashore, and getting out of it what oil we had been +unable to extract, which at sea is always lost to the ship. He also +suggested that he would be prepared to take reasonable terms for such +oil, which we should be able to mingle with ours to our advantage. An +arrangement was speedily arrived at to give him L20 per tun for whatever +oil he made. They parted on the best of terms with each other, and as +soon as we cut the carcass loose the Maories made fast, to it, speedily +beaching it in a convenient spot near where they had previously erected +a most primitive try-works. + +That afternoon, after the head was inboard, the skipper thought he would +go ashore and see how they were getting on. I was so fortunate as to +be able to accompany him. When we arrived at the spot, we found them +working as I have never seen men work, except perhaps the small riggers +that at home take a job--three or four of them--to bend or unbend a +big ship's sails for a lump sum to be paid when the work is done. They +attacked the carcass furiously, as if they had a personal enmity against +it, chopping through the massive bones and rending off huge lumps of +the flesh with marvellous speed. They had already laid open the enormous +cavity of the abdomen, and were stripping the interminable intestines +of their rich coating of fat. In the maw there were, besides a large +quantity of dismembered squid of great size, a number of fish, such as +rock-cod, barracouta, schnapper, and the like, whose presence there was +a revelation to me. How in the name of wonder so huge and unwieldy a +creature as the cachalot could manage to catch those nimble members +of the finny tribe, I could not for the life of me divine! Unless--and +after much cogitation it was the only feasible explanation that I could +see--as the cachalot swims about with his lower jaw hanging down in its +normal position, and his huge gullet gaping like some submarine cavern, +the fish unwittingly glide down it, to find egress impossible. This may +or may not be the case; but I, at any rate, can find no more reasonable +theory, for it is manifestly absurd to suppose the whale capable of +CATCHING fish in the ordinary sense, indicating pursuit. + +Every part of the animal yielded oil. Even the bones, broken up into +pieces capable of entering the pot, were boiled; and by the time we had +finished our trying-out, the result of the Maories' labour was ready for +us. Less than a week had sufficed to yield them a net sum of six guineas +each, even at the very low rate for which they sold us the oil. Except +that it was a little darker in colour, a defect that would disappear +when mixed with our store, there was no difference between the products +that could be readily detected. And at the price we paid for it, there +was a clear profit of cent. per cent., even had we kept it separate and +sold it for what it was. But I suppose it was worth the Maories' while +thus to dispose of it and quickly realize their hard earnings. + +So far, our last excursion had been entirely satisfactory. We had not +suffered any loss or endured any hardship; and if only such comfortable +proceedings were more frequent, the Solander ground would not have any +terrors for us at least. But one afternoon there crept in around the +eastern horn of the harbour three forlorn and half-dismantled vessels, +whose weather-worn crews looked wistfully at us engaged in clearing up +decks and putting away gear upon the finishing of our trying-out. Poor +fellows! they had seen rough times since that unforgettable evening when +we parted from them at the other end of the island, and watched them +slowly fade into the night. Two of them were so badly damaged that +no further fishing was possible for them until they had undergone a +thorough refit, such as they could not manage there. One was leaking +badly, the tremendous strain put upon her hull in the vain attempt to +hold on to the two whales she had during the gale having racked her +almost all to pieces. The third one was still capable of taking the +ground again, with sundry repairs such as could be effected by her crew. +But the general feeling among all three crews was that there was more +loss than gain to be expected here, in spite of the multitude of whales +visiting the place. + +As if to fill up their cup, in came the old CHANCE again, this time with +a whale on each side. Captain Gilroy was on the house aft, his chubby +red face in a ruddy glow of delight, and his crew exuberant. When he +passed the American ships, as he was bound to do very closely, the +sight of their scowling faces seemed to afford him the most exquisite +amusement, and he laughed loud and long. His crew, on the impulse of the +moment, sprang to the rail and cheered with might and main. No one could +gainsay that they had good reason, but I really feared for a time that +we should have "ructions," As Paddy said, it was not wise or dignified +for those officers to be so angry with him on account of his success, +which he frankly owned was due almost entirely to the local knowledge he +possessed, gained in many years' study of the immediate neighbourhood. +He declared that, as far as the technical duties of whale-fishing went, +all the Americans could beat him hollow; but they ought to realize that +something else was needed here which no man could hope to have unless +he were content to remain on the coast altogether. With which words of +wisdom our skipper cordially agreed, bearing in mind his own exploits in +the bygone time around those rugged shores. + +The strong breeze which brought Paddy and his whales home died down +that night, enabling us to start for the grounds again--a concession +gratefully received, for not the least of the hindrances felt there was +the liability to be "wind-bound" for a long time, while fine weather was +prevailing at the fishing grounds. + +We made a fine passage down the Straits with a leading wind, finding our +two late companions still cruising, having managed to get their whales +aboard without mishap, and being somewhat inclined to chaff our old +man for running in. He gave a wink full of wisdom, as he replied, "I'm +pretty ole whale myself naouw; but I guess I ain't too old to learn; 'n +wut I learn I'm goin' ter use. See?" Of course the fine weather did not +last long--it never does; and seeing the gloomy masses of violet-edged +cumuli piling up on the southern horizon, we hugged the Solander Rock +itself pretty close, nor ventured far to seaward. Our two consorts, +on the contrary, kept well out and on the northern verge, as if they +intended the next gale that blew to get north, IF they could. The old +man's object in thus keeping in was solely in order that he might +be able to run for shelter; but, much to his delight and certainly +surprise, as we passed about a mile to the southward of the lonely, +towering crags of the great rock, there came from aloft the welcome cry +of "Sperm whale!" + +There was only one, and he was uncomfortably near the rock; but such a +splendid chance was not to be missed, if our previous training was of +any avail. There was some speculation as to what he could be doing so +close inshore, contrary to the habit of this animal, who seems to be +only comfortable when in deep waters; but except a suggestion that +perhaps he had come in to scrape off an extra accumulation of barnacles, +nobody could arrive at any definite conclusion. When we reached him, we +found a frightful blind swell rolling, and it needed all our seamanship +to handle the boats so that they should not be capsized. Fortunately, +the huge rollers did not break, or we should hardly have got back +safely, whale or no whale. + +Two irons were planted in him, of which he took not the slightest +notice. We had taken in sail before closing in to him on account of the +swell, so that we had only to go in and finish him at once, if he would +let us. Accordingly, we went in with a will, but for all sign of life +he showed he might as well have been stuffed. There he lay, lazily +spouting, the blood pouring, or rather spirting, from his numerous +wounds, allowing us to add to their number at our pleasure, and never +moving his vast body, which was gently swayed by the rolling sea. Seeing +him thus quiescent, the mate sent the other two boats back to the ship +with the good news, which the captain received with a grave smile +of content, proceeding at once to bring the ship as near as might be +consistent with her safety. We were now thoroughly sheltered from sight +of the other ships by the enormous mass of the island, so that they had +no idea of our proceedings. + +Finding that it was not wise to take the ship in any closer, while we +were yet some distance from our prize, a boat was sent to Mr. Cruce with +the instructions that he was to run his line from the whale back to the +ship, if the creature was dead. He (the mate) replied that the whale +died as quietly as he had taken his wounds, and immediately started for +the ship. When he had paid out all his line, another boat bent on, until +we got the end on board. Then we merrily walked him up alongside, while +sufficient sail was kept drawing to prevent her being set in any nearer. +When he was fast, we crowded on all canvas to get away; for although the +sea was deep close up to the cliff, that swell was a very ugly feature, +and one which has been responsible for the loss of a great number +of ships in such places all over the world. Notwithstanding all our +efforts, we did get so near that every detail of the rock was clearly +visible to the naked eye, and we had some anxious minutes while the old +ship, rolling tremendously, crawled inch after inch along the awful side +of that sea-encircled pyramid. + +At one point there was quite a cave, the floor of which would be some +twenty feet above high-water mark, and its roof about the same distance +higher. It appeared to penetrate some distance into the bowels of the +mountain, and was wide and roomy. Sea-birds in great numbers hovered +around its entrance, finding it, no doubt, an ideal nesting-place. It +appeared quite inaccessible, for even with a perfect calm the swell +dashed against the perpendicular face of the cliff beneath with a force +that would have instantly destroyed any vessel unfortunate enough to get +within its influence. + +Slowly, slowly we forged past the danger; but the moment we opened out +the extremity of the island, a fresh breeze, like a saving hand, swept +across the bows, filling the head-sails and swinging the old vessel +away from the island in grand style. Another minute, and the other sails +filled also. We were safe, all hands breathing freely once more. + +Now the wind hung far round to the eastward--far enough to frustrate +any design we might have had of going up the Straits again. The old +man, however, was too deeply impressed with the paramount necessity +of shelter to lightly give up the idea of getting in somewhere; so he +pointed her for Preservation Inlet, which was only some thirty miles +under her lee. We crowded all sail upon her in the endeavour to get in +before nightfall, this unusual proceeding bringing our two friends up +from to leeward with a run to see what we were after. Burdened as +we were, they sailed nearly two knots to our one, and consequently +intercepted us some while before we neared our port. Great was their +surprise to find we had a whale, and very anxious their queries as to +where the rest of the school had gone. Reassured that they had lost +nothing by not being nearer, it being a "lone" whale, off they went +again. + +With all our efforts, evening was fast closing in when we entered the +majestic portals of Preservation Inlet, and gazed with deepest interest +upon its heavily wooded shores. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. PADDY'S LATEST EXPLOIT + +New Zealand is pre-eminently a country of grand harbours; but I think +those that are least used easily bear the palm for grandeur of scenery +and facility of access. The wonderful harbour, or rather series of +harbours, into which we were now entering for the first time, greatly +resembled in appearance a Norwegian fjord, not only in the character of +its scenery, but from the interesting, if disconcerting, fact that +the cliffs were so steep-to that in some places no anchorage is found +alongside the very land itself. There are, however, many places where +the best possible anchorage can be obtained, so securely sheltered that +a howling south-wester may be tearing the sea up by the roots outside, +and you will know nothing of it within, except what may be surmised from +the motion of the clouds overhead. It was an ideal place for a whaling +station, being right on the Solander. + +We found it exceedingly convenient, and much nearer than Port William, +but, from the prevailing winds, difficult of access in nine cases out of +ten, especially when hampered with a whale. Upon cutting-in our +latest catch, an easy explanation of his passive attitude was at once +forthcoming. He had been attacked by some whale-ship, whose irons had +drawn, leaving deep traces of their presence; but during the battle he +had received SEVEN bombs, all of which had entered around his small, +but had not exploded. Their general effect had been, I should think, +to paralyze the great muscles of his flukes, rendering him unable to +travel; yet this could not have taken place until some time after he +had made good his escape from those aggressors. It was instructive, as +demonstrating what amount of injury these colossi really can survive, +and I have no doubt that, if he had been left alone, he would have +recovered his normal energy, and been as well as ever. From our point of +view, of course, what had happened was the best possible thing, for he +came almost as a gift--the second capture we had made on these grounds +of a like nature. + +At the close of our operations the welcome news was made public that +four more fish like the present one would fill us bung-up, and that we +should then, after a brief visit to the Bluff, start direct for home. +This announcement, though expected for some time past, gave an amazing +fillip to everybody's interest in the work. The strange spectacle was +witnessed of all hands being anxious to quit a snug harbour for the sea, +where stern, hard wrestling with the elements was the rule. The captain, +well pleased with the eagerness manifested, had his boat manned for a +trip to the entrance of the harbour, to see what the weather was like +outside, since it was not possible to judge from where the ship lay. On +his return, he reported the weather rough, but moderating, and announced +his intention of weighing at daylight next morning. Satisfied that our +days in the southern hemisphere were numbered, and all anxiety to point +her head for home, this news was most pleasing, putting all of us in the +best of humours, and provoking quite an entertainment of song and dance +until nearly four bells. + +During the grey of dawn the anchor was weighed. There was no breath of +wind from any quarter, so that it was necessary to lower boats and tow +the old girl out to her field of duty. Before she was fairly clear of +the harbour, though, there came a "snifter" from the hills that caught +her unprepared, making her reel again, and giving us a desperate few +minutes to scramble on board and hoist our boats up. As we drew out from +the land, we found that a moderate gale was blowing, but the sky was +clear, fathomless blue, the sun rose kindly, a heavenly dream of soft +delicate colour preceding him; so that, in spite of the strong breeze, +all looked promising for a good campaign. At first no sign could be seen +of any of the other ships, though we looked long and eagerly for them. +At last we saw them, four in all, nearly hull down to seaward, but +evidently coming in under press of sail. So slow, however, was their +approach that we had made one "leg" across the ground and halfway back +before they were near enough for us to descry the reason of their want +of speed. They had each got a whale alongside, and were carrying every +rag of canvas they could spread, in order to get in with their prizes. + +Our old acquaintance, the CHANCE, was there, the three others being her +former competitors, except those who were disabled, still lying in Port +William. Slowly, painfully they laboured along, until well within the +mouth of the Straits, when, without any warning, the wind which had been +bringing them in suddenly flew round into the northward, putting them +at once in a most perilous position. Too far within the Straits to "up +helm" and run for it out to sea; not far enough to get anywhere that an +anchor might hold; and there to leeward, within less than a dozen miles, +loomed grim and gloomy one of the most terrific rock-bound coasts in the +world. The shift of wind had placed the CHANCE farther to leeward than +all the rest, a good mile and a half nearer the shore; and we could well +imagine how anxiously her movements were being watched by the others, +who, in spite of their jealousy of his good luck, knew well and +appreciated fully Paddy's marvellous seamanship, as well as his +unparalleled knowledge of the coast. + +Having no whale to hamper our movements, besides being well to windward +of them all, we were perfectly comfortable as long as we kept to seaward +of a certain line and the gale was not too fierce, so for the present +all our attention was concentrated upon the labouring ships to leeward. +The intervention of the land to windward kept the sea from rising to +the awful height it attains under the pressure of a westerly, or a +south-westerly gale, when, gathering momentum over an area extending +right round the globe, it hurls itself upon those rugged shores. Still, +it was bad enough. The fact of the gale striking across the regular set +of the swell and current had the effect of making the sea irregular, +short, and broken, which state of things is considered worse, as far as +handling the ship goes, than a much heavier, longer, but more regular +succession of waves. + +As the devoted craft drifted helplessly down upon that frowning barrier, +our excitement grew intense. Their inability to do anything but drift +was only too well known by experience to every one of us, nor would it +be possible for them to escape at all if they persisted in holding on +much longer. And it was easy to see why they did so. While Paddy held +on so far to leeward of them, and consequently in so much more imminent +danger than they were, it would be derogatory in the highest degree to +their reputation for seamanship and courage were they to slip and run +before he did. He, however, showed no sign of doing so, although +they all neared, with an accelerated drift, that point from whence +no seamanship could deliver them, and where death inevitable, cruel, +awaited them without hope of escape. The part of the coast upon which +they were apparently driving was about as dangerous and impracticable as +any in the world. A gigantic barrier of black, naked rock, extending for +several hundred yards, rose sheer from the sea beneath, like the side of +an ironclad, up to a height of seven or eight hundred feet. No outlying +spurs of submerged fragments broke the immeasurable landward rush of the +majestic waves towards the frowning face of this world-fragment. +Fresh from their source, with all the impetus accumulated in their +thousand-mile journey, they came apparently irresistible. Against this +perpendicular barrier they hurled themselves with a shock that vibrated +far inland, and a roar that rose in a dominating diapason over the +continuous thunder of the tempest-riven sea. High as was the summit +of the cliff, the spray, hurled upwards by the tremendous impact, rose +higher, so that the whole front of the great rock was veiled in filmy +wreaths of foam, hiding its solidity from the seaward view. At either +end of this vast, rampart nothing could be seen but a waste of breakers +seething, hissing, like the foot of Niagara, and effectually concealing +the CHEVAUX DE FRISE of rocks which produced such a vortex of tormented +waters. + +Towards this dreadful spot, then, the four vessels were being +resistlessly driven, every moment seeing their chances of escape +lessening to vanishing-point. Suddenly, as if panic-stricken, the ship +nearest to the CHANCE gave a great sweep round on to the other tack, a +few fluttering gleams aloft showing that even in that storm they +were daring to set some sail. What the manoeuvre meant we knew very +well--they had cut adrift from their whale, terrified at last beyond +endurance into the belief that Paddy was going to sacrifice himself and +his crew in the attempt to lure them with him to inevitable destruction. +The other two did not hesitate longer. The example once set, they +immediately followed; but it was for some time doubtful in the +extreme whether their resolve was not taken too late to save them from +destruction. We watched them with breathless interest, unable for a long +time to satisfy ourselves that they were out of danger. But at last +we saw them shortening sail again--a sure sign that they considered +themselves, while the wind held in the same quarter, safe from going +ashore at any rate, although there was still before them the prospect of +a long struggle with the unrelenting ferocity of the weather down south. + +Meanwhile, what of the daring Irishman and his old barrel of a ship? +The fugitives once safe off the land, all our interest centred in the +CHANCE. We watched her until she drew in so closely to the seething +cauldron of breakers that it was only occasionally we could distinguish +her outline; and the weather was becoming so thick and dirty, the +light so bad, that we were reluctantly compelled to lose sight of +her, although the skipper believed that he saw her in the midst of +the turmoil of broken water at the western end of the mighty mass of +perpendicular cliff before described. Happily for us, the wind veered to +the westward, releasing us from the prospect of another enforced visit +to the wild regions south of the island. It blew harder than ever; but +being now a fair wind up the Straits, we fled before it, anchoring again +in Port William before midnight. Here we were compelled to remain for +a week; for after the gale blew itself out, the wind still hung in the +same quarter, refusing to allow us to get back again to our cruising +station. + +But on the second day of our enforced detention a ship poked her jibboom +round the west end of the little bay. No words could describe our +condition of spellbound astonishment when she rounded-to, cumbrously as +befitting a ship towing a whale, and revealed to us the well-remembered +outlines of the old CHANCE. It was like welcoming the first-fruits +of the resurrection; for who among sailor men, having seen a vessel +disappear from their sight, as we had, under such terrible conditions, +would ever have expected to see her again? She was hardly anchored +before our skipper was alongside, thirsting to satisfy his unbounded +curiosity as to the unheard-of means whereby she had escaped such +apparently inevitable destruction. I was fortunate enough to accompany +him, and hear the story at first-hand. + +It appeared that none of the white men on board, except the redoubtable +Paddy himself, had ever been placed in so seemingly hopeless and +desperate a position before. Yet when they saw how calm and free from +anxiety their commander was, how cool and business-like the attitude +of all their dusky shipmates, their confidence in his ability and +resourcefulness kept its usual high level. It must be admitted that the +test such feelings were then subjected to was of the severest, for to +their eyes no possible avenue of escape was open. Along that glaring +line of raging, foaming water not a break occurred, not the faintest +indication of an opening anywhere wherein even so experienced a pilot +as Paddy might thrust a ship. The great black wall of rock loomed up +by their side, grim and pitiless as doom--a very door of adamant closed +against all hope. Nearer and nearer they drew, until the roar of the +baffled Pacific was deafening, maddening, in its overwhelming volume of +chaotic sound. All hands stood motionless, with eyes fixed in horrible +fascination upon the indescribable vortex to which they were being +irresistibly driven. + +At last, just as the fringes of the back-beaten billows hissed up to +greet them, they felt her motion ease. Instinctively looking aft, they +saw the skipper coolly wave his hand, signing to them to trim the yards. +As they hauled on the weather braces, she plunged through the maelstrom +of breakers, and before they had got the yards right round they were on +the other side of that enormous barrier, the anchor was dropped, and all +was still. The vessel rested, like a bird on her nest, in a deep, still +tarn, shut in, to all appearance, on every side by huge rock barriers. +Of the furious storm but a moment before howling and raging all around +them, nothing remained but an all-pervading, thunderous hum, causing +the deck to vibrate beneath them, and high overhead the jagged, leaden +remnants of twisted, tortured cloud whirling past their tiny oblong of +sky. Just a minute's suspension of all faculties but wonder, then, in +one spontaneous, heartfelt note of genuine admiration, all hands burst +into a cheer that even overtopped the mighty rumble of the baffled sea. + +Here they lay, perfectly secure, and cut in their whale as if in dock; +then at the first opportunity they ran out, with fearful difficulty, a +kedge with a whale-line attached, by which means they warped the vessel +out of her hiding-place--a far more arduous operation than getting in +had been. But even this did not exhaust the wonders of that occasion. +They had hardly got way upon her, beginning to draw out from the land, +when the eagle-eye of one of the Maories detected the carcass of a +whale rolling among the breakers about half a mile to the westward. +Immediately a boat was lowered, a double allowance of line put into +her, and off they went to the valuable flotsam. Dangerous in the highest +degree was the task of getting near enough to drive harpoons into the +body; but it was successfully accomplished, the line run on board, and +the prize hauled triumphantly alongside. This was the whale they had now +brought in. We shrewdly suspected that it must have been one of those +abandoned by the unfortunate vessels who had fled, but etiquette forbade +us saying anything about it. Even had it been, another day would have +seen it valueless to any one, for it was by no means otto of roses to +sniff at now, while they had certainly salved it at the peril of their +lives. + +When we returned on board and repeated the story, great was the +amazement. Such a feat of seamanship was almost beyond belief; but we +were shut up to believing, since in no other way could the vessel's +miraculous escape be accounted for. The little, dumpy, red-faced figure, +rigged like any scarecrow, that now stood on his cutting-stage, punching +away vigorously at the fetid mass of blubber beneath him, bore no +outward visible sign of a hero about him; but in our eyes he was +transfigured--a being to be thought of reverently, as one who in all +those dualities that go to the making of a man had proved himself of the +seed royal, a king of men, all the more kingly because unconscious that +his deeds were of so exalted an order. + +I am afraid that, to a landsman, my panegyric may smack strongly of +gush, for no one but a seaman can rightly appraise such doings as these; +but I may be permitted to say that, when I think of men whom I feel glad +to have lived to know, foremost among them rises the queer little figure +of Paddy Gilroy. + + + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. PORT PEGASUS + +The wind still holding steadily in the old quarter, our skipper got very +restless. He recalled his former exploits, and, firing at the thought, +decided then and there to have a trip round to Port Pegasus, in the hope +that he might meet with some of his former good luck in the vicinity of +that magnificent bay. With the greatest alacrity we obeyed his summons, +handling the old barky as if she were a small boat, and the same +morning, for the first time, ran out of the Straits to the eastward +past Ruapuke Island. Beautiful weather prevailed, making our trip a +delightful one, the wonderful scenery of that coast appealing to even +the most callous or indifferent among us. We hugged the land closely, +the skipper being familiar with all of it in a general way, so that none +of its beauties were lost to us. The breeze holding good, by nightfall +we had reached our destination, anchoring in the north arm near a +tumbling cascade of glittering water that looked like a long feather +laid on the dark-green slope of the steep hill from which it gushed. + +We had not been long at anchor before we had visitors--half-breed +Maories, who, like the Finns and Canadians, are farmers, fishermen, +sailors, and shipwrights, as necessity arises. They brought us +potatoes--most welcome of all fruit to the sailor--cabbages, onions, and +"mutton birds." This latter delicacy is a great staple of their flesh +food, but is one of the strangest dishes imaginable. When it is being +cooked in the usual way, i.e. by grilling, it smells exactly like a +piece of roasting mutton; but it tastes, to my mind, like nothing else +in the world so much as a kippered herring. There is a gastronomical +paradox, if you like. Only the young birds are taken for eating. They +are found, when unfledged, in holes of the rocks, and weigh sometimes +treble as much as their parents. They are exceedingly fat; but this +substance is nearly all removed from their bodies before they are +hung up in the smoke-houses. They are split open like a haddock, and +carefully smoked, after being steeped in brine. Baskets, something like +exaggerated strawberry pottles of the old conical shape, are prepared, +to hold each about a dozen birds. They are lined with leaves, then +packed with the birds, the melted fat being run into all the interstices +until the basket is full. The top is then neatly tied up with more +leaves, and, thus preserved, the contents will keep in cool weather an +indefinite length of time. + +Captain Count was soon recognized by some of his old friends, who were +delighted to welcome him again. Their faces fell, however, when he told +them that his stay was to be very brief, and that he only required four +good-sized fish to fill up. Inquiry as to the prevalence of sperm whales +in the vicinity elicited the news that they were as plentiful as they +had ever been--if anything, more so, since the visits of the whalers had +become fewer. There were a couple of "bay" whaling stations existing; +but, of course, their success could not be expected to be great among +the cachalots, who usually keep a respectful distance from harbours, +while they had driven the right whales away almost entirely. + +No one could help being struck by the manly bearing, splendid physique, +and simple manners of the inhabitants. If ever it falls to the lot of +any one, as I hope it will, to establish a sperm whale fishery in these +regions, there need be no lack of workers while such grand specimens +of manhood abound there as we saw--all, moreover, fishermen and whalers +from their earliest days. + +We did not go far afield, but hovered within ten or fifteen miles of the +various entrances, so as not to be blown off the land in case of sudden +bad weather. Even with that timid offing, we were only there two days, +when an enormous school of sperm whales hove in sight. I dare not say +how many I believe there were, and my estimate really might be biassed; +but this I know, that in no given direction could one look to seaward +and not see many spouts. + +We got among them and had a good time, being more hampered by the +curiosity of the unattached fish than by the pugnacity of those under +our immediate attention. So we killed three, and by preconcerted signal +warned the watchers on the lofty points ashore of our success. As +speedily as possible off came four boats from the shore stations, and +hooked on to two of our fish, while we were busy with the third. The +wind being off shore, what there was of it, no time was to be lost, in +view of the well-known untrustworthiness of the weather; so we started +to cut-in at once, while the shore people worked like giants to tow +the other two in. Considering the weakness of their forces, they made +marvellous progress; but seeing how terribly exhausting the toil was, +one could not help wishing them one of the small London tugs, familiarly +known as "jackals," which would have snaked those monsters along at +three or four knots an hour. + +However, all went well; the usual gale did blow but not till we had +got the last piece aboard and a good "slant" to run in, arriving at our +previous moorings at midnight. In the morning the skipper went down in +his boat to visit the stations, and see how they had fared. Old hand as +he was, I think he was astonished to see what progress those fellows had +made with the fish. They did not reach the stations till after midnight, +but already they had the whales half flenched, and, by the way they were +working, it looked as if they would be through with their task as soon +as we were with ours. Their agreement with the skipper was to yield us +half the oil they made, and, if agreeable to them, we would take their +moiety at L40 per tun. Consequently they had something to work for, even +though there were twenty of them to share the spoil. They were a +merry party, eminently good tempered, and working as though one spirit +animated them all. If there was a leader of the band, he did his office +with great subtilty, for all seemed equal, nor did any appear to need +directing what to do. Fired by their example, we all worked our hardest; +but they beat us by half a day, mainly, I think, by dint of working +nearly all the time with scarce any interval for sleep. True, they were +bound to take advantage of low water when their huge prize was high and +dry--to get at him easily all round. Their method was of the simplest. +With gaff-hooks to haul back the pieces, and short-handled spades for +cutting, they worked in pairs, taking off square slabs of blubber about +a hundredweight each. As soon as a piece was cut off, the pair tackled +on to it, dragging it up to the pots, where the cooks hastily sliced it +for boiling, interspersing their labours with attention to the simmering +cauldrons. + +Their efforts realized twenty-four tuns of clear oil and spermaceti, +of which, according to bargain, we took twelve, the captain buying the +other twelve for L480, as previously arranged. This latter portion, +however, was his private venture, and not on ship's account, as he +proposed selling it at the Bluff, when we should call there on our way +home. So that we were still two whales short of our quantity. What a +little space it did seem to fill up! Our patience was sorely tested, +when, during a whole week following our last haul, we were unable to put +to sea. In vain we tried all the old amusements of fishing, rambling, +bathing, etc.; they had lost their "bite;" we wanted to get home. At +last the longed-for shift of wind came and set us free. We had hardly +got well clear of the heads before we saw a school of cachalots away on +the horizon, some twelve miles off the land to the southward. We made +all possible sail in chase, but found, to our dismay, that they were +"making a passage," going at such a rate that unless the wind freshened +we could hardly hope to come up with them. Fortunately, we had all day +before us, having quitted our moorings soon after daylight; and unless +some unforeseen occurrence prevented us from keeping up our rate of +speed, the chances were that some time before dark they would ease +up and allow us to approach them. They were heading to the westward, +perhaps somewhat to the northward withal, to all appearance making +for the Solander. Hour after hour crawled by, while we still seemed to +preserve our relative distance, until we had skirted the southern shore +of the island and entered the area, of our old fishing ground. Two +vessels were cruising thereon, well to the northward, and we thought +with glee of the excitement that would seize them did they but gain an +inkling of our chase. + +To our great delight, what we had hoped, but hardly dared expect, came +to pass. The school, as if with one impulse, hauled up on their course +four points, which made them head direct for the western verge of the +Solander ground, and--what was more important to us--made our coming up +with them a matter of a short time. We made the customary signals with +the upper sails to our friends to the northward, who recognized them +immediately, and bore down towards us. Not only had the school shifted +their course, but they had slackened speed; so that by four o'clock we +were able to lower for them at less than a mile distance. + +It was an ideal whaling day--smooth water, a brisk breeze, a brilliant +sun, and plenty of whales. I was, as became my position, in the rear +when we went into action, and hardly hoped for an opportunity of doing +much but dance attendance upon my seniors. But fortune favoured me. +Before I had any idea whether the chief was fast or not, all other +considerations were driven clean out of my head by the unexpected +apparition of a colossal head, not a ship's length away, coming straight +for us, throwing up a swell in front of him like an ironclad. There was +barely time to sheer to one side, when the giant surged past us in a +roar of foaming sea, the flying flakes of which went right over us. +Samuela was "all there," though, and as the great beast passed he +plunged a harpoon into him with such force and vigour that the very +socket entered the blubber it needed all the strength I could muster, +even with such an aid as the nineteen-feet steer-oar, to swing the boat +right round in his wake, and prevent her being capsized by his headlong +rush. + +For, contrary to the usual practice, he paused not an instant, but +rather quickened his pace, as if spurred. Heavens, how he went! The +mast and sail had to come down--and they did, but I hardly know how. +The spray was blinding, coming in sheets over the bows, so that I could +hardly see how to steer in the monster's wake. He headed straight for +the ship, which lay-to almost motionless, filling me with apprehension +lest he should in his blind flight dash that immense mass of solid +matter into her broadside, and so put an inglorious end to all our +hopes. What their feelings on board must have been, I can only imagine, +when they saw the undeviating rush of the gigantic creature straight for +them. On he went, until I held my breath for the crash, when at the +last moment, and within a few feet of the ship's side, he dived, passing +beneath the vessel. We let go line immediately, as may be supposed; but +although we had been towing with quite fifty fathoms drift, our speed +had been so great that we came up against the old ship with a crash +that very nearly finished us. He did not run any further just then, but +sounded for about two hundred and fifty fathoms, rising to the surface +in quite another mood. No more running away from him. I cannot say I +felt any of the fierce joy of battle at the prospect before me. I had a +profound respect for the fighting qualities of the sperm whale, and, to +tell the truth, would much rather have run twenty miles behind him than +have him turn to bay in his present parlous humour. It was, perhaps, +fortunate for me that there was a crowd of witnesses, the other ships +being now quite near enough to see all that was going on, since the +feeling that my doings were full in view of many experts and veterans +gave me a determination that I would not disgrace either myself or my +ship; besides, I felt that this would probably be our last whale this +voyage, if I did not fail, and that was no small thing to look forward +to. + +All these things, so tedious in the telling, flashed through my mind, +while, with my eyes glued to the huge bulk of my antagonist or the +hissing vortices above him when he settled, I manoeuvred my pretty craft +with all the skill I could summon. For what seemed a period of about +twenty minutes we dodged him as he made the ugliest rushes at us. I +had not yet changed ends with Samuela, as customary, for I felt it +imperative to keep the helm while this game was being played. My trusty +Kanaka, however, had a lance ready, and I knew, if he only got the ghost +of a chance, no man living would or could make better use of it. + +The whole affair was growing monotonous as well as extremely wearying. +Perhaps I was a little off my guard; at any rate, my heart almost leaped +into my mouth when just after an ugly rush past us, which I thought had +carried him to a safe distance, he stopped dead, lifted his flukes, and +brought them down edgeways with a vicious sweep that only just missed +the boat's gunwale and shore off the two oars on that side as if they +had been carrots. This serious disablement would certainly have led to +disaster but for Samuela. Prompt and vigorous, he seized the opportune +moment when the whale's side was presented just after the blow, sending +his lance quivering home all its length into the most vital part of +the leviathan's anatomy. Turning his happy face to me, he shouted +exultingly, "How's dat fer high?"--a bit of slang he had picked up, and +his use of which never failed to make me smile. "High" it was indeed--a +master-stroke. It must have pierced the creature's heart, for he +immediately began to spout blood in masses, and without another wound +went into his flurry and died. + +Then came the reaction. I must have exerted myself beyond what I had +any idea of, for to Samuela I was obliged to delegate the task of +fluke-boring, while I rested a little. The ship was soon alongside, +though, and the whale secured. There was more yet to be done before +we could rest, in spite of our fatigue. The other boats had been so +successful that they had got two big fish, and what we were to do with +them was a problem not easily solvable. By dint of great exertion, we +managed to get another whale alongside, but were fain to come to +some arrangement with the ELIZA ADAMS, one of the ships that had been +unsuccessful, to take over our other whale on an agreement to render +us one-third of the product either in Port William or at home, if she +should not find us is the former place. + +Behold us, then, in the gathering dusk with a whale on either side, +every stitch of canvas we could show set and drawing, straining every +nerve to get into the little port again, with the pleasant thought that +we were bringing with us all that was needed to complete our well-earned +cargo. Nobody wanted to go below; all hands felt that it was rest enough +to hang over the rail on either side and watch the black masses as they +surged through the gleaming sea. They represented so much to us. Very +little was said, but all hearts were filled with a deep content, a sense +of a long season of toil fitly crowned with complete success; nor was +any depression felt at the long, long stretch of stormy ocean between +us and our home port far away in the United States. That would doubtless +come by-and-by, when within less than a thousand miles of New Bedford; +but at present all sense of distance from home was lost in the +overmastering thought that soon it would be our only business to get +there as quickly as possible, without any avoidable loitering on the +road. + +We made an amazing disturbance in the darkness of the sea with our +double burthen, so much so that one of the coasting steamers changed +her course a bit to range up by our side in curiosity. We were scarcely +going two and a half knots, in spite of the row we made, and there +was hardly room for wonder at the steamboat captain's hail, "Want any +assistance?" "No, thank you," was promptly returned, although there was +little doubt that all hands would have subscribed towards a tow into +port, in case the treacherous weather should, after all, play us a dirty +trick. But it looked as if our troubles were over. No hitch occurred +in our steady progress, slow though it necessarily was, and as morning +lifted the heavy veil from the face of the land, we arrived at our +pretty little haven, and quietly came to an anchor. The CHANCE was in +port wind-bound, looking, like ourselves, pretty low in the water. No +sooner did Paddy hear the news of our arrival in such fine trim than +he lowered his boat and hurried on board of us, his face beaming with +delight. Long and loud were his congratulations, especially when he +heard that we should now be full. Moreover, he offered--nor would he +take any denial--to come with the whole of his crew and help us finish. + +For the next four days and nights, during which the wind prevented the +CHANCE from leaving us, our old ship was a scene of wild revelry, that +ceased not through the twenty-four hours--revelry entirely unassisted +by strong waters, too, the natural ebullient gaiety of men who were +free from anxiety on any account whatever, rejoicing over the glad +consummation of more than two years toil, on the one hand; on the other, +a splendid sympathy in joy manifested by the satisfied crew under the +genial command of Captain Gilroy. With their cheerful help we made +wonderful progress; and when at last the wind hauled into a favourable +quarter, and they were compelled to leave us, the back of our work was +broken, only the tedious task of boiling being left to finish. + +Never, I am sure, did two ships' companies part with more hearty +good-will than ours. As the ungainly old tub surged slowly out of the +little harbour, her worn-out and generally used-up appearance would have +given a Board of Trade Inspector the nightmare; the piratical looks of +her crowd were enough to frighten a shipload of passengers into fits; +but to us who had seen their performances in all weathers, and under all +circumstances, accidental externals had no weight in biassing our high +opinion of them all. Good-bye, old ship; farewell, jolly captain and +sturdy crew; you will never be forgotten any more by us while +life lasts, and in far other and more conventional scenes we shall +regretfully remember the free-and-easy time we shared with you. So she +slipped away round the point and out of our lives for ever. + +By dint of steady hard work we managed to get the last of our greasy +work done in four days more, then faced with a will the job of stowing +afresh the upper tiers of casks, in view of our long journey home. The +oil bought by the skipper on private venture was left on deck, secured +to the lash-rail, for discharging at the Bluff, while our stock of +water-casks were carefully overhauled and recoopered prior to being +stowed in their places below. Of course, we had plenty of room in the +hold, since no ship would carry herself full of casks of oil; but I +doubt whether, if we had borne a "Plimsoll's mark," it would not have +been totally submerged, so deep did we lie. Wooding and watering came +next--a different affair to our casual exercises in those directions +before. Provision had to be made now for a possible four or five months' +passage, during which we hoped to avoid any further calls, so that +the accumulation of firewood alone was no small matter. We cleared the +surrounding neighbourhood of potatoes at a good price, those useful +tubers being all they could supply us with for sea-stock, much to their +sorrow. + +Then came the most unpleasant part of the whole business--for me. It had +been a part of the agreement made with the Kanakas that they were not to +be taken home with us, but returned to their island upon the termination +of the whaling. Now, the time had arrived when we were to part, and +I must confess that I felt very sorry to leave them. They had proved +docile, useful, and cheerful; while as for my harpooner and his mate +Polly, no man could have wished for smarter, better, or more faithful +helpers than they were. Strong as their desire was to return to their +homes, they too felt keenly the parting with us; for although they +had unavoidably suffered much from the inclemency of the weather--so +different from anything they had ever previously experienced--they had +been kindly treated, and had moved on precisely the same footing as the +rest of the crew. They wept like little children when the time arrived +for them to leave us, declaring that if ever we came to their island +again they would use all their endeavours to compel us to remain, +assuring us that we should want for nothing during the rest of our +lives, if we would but take up our abode with them. The one exception +to all this cordiality was Sam. His ideas were running in quite other +channels. To regain his lost status as ruler of the island, with all +the opportunities for indulging his animal propensities which such +a position gave him, was the problem he had set himself, and to the +realization of these wishes he had determinedly bent all his efforts. + +Thus he firmly declined the offer of a passage back in the ELIZA ADAMS, +which our captain secured for all the Kanakas; preferring to be landed +at the Bluff, with the goodly sum of money to which he was entitled, +saying that he had important business to transact in Sydney before he +returned. This business, he privately informed me, was the procuring of +arms and ammunition wherewith to make war upon his rival. Of course we +could not prevent him, although it did seem an abominable thing to let +loose the spirit of slaughter among those light-hearted natives just +to satisfy the ambition of an unscrupulous negro. But, as I have before +noticed, from information received many years after I learned that he +had been successful in his efforts, though at what cost to life I do not +know. + +So our dusky friends left us, with a good word from every one, and went +on board the ELIZA ADAMS, whose captain promised to land them at Futuna, +within six months. How he carried out his promise, I do not know; but, +for the poor fellows' sakes, I trust he kept his word. + + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. TO THE BLUFF, AND HOME + +And now the cruise of the good old whaling barque CACHALOT, as far as +whaling is concerned, comes to an end. For all practical purposes +she becomes a humdrum merchantman in haste to reach her final port of +discharge, and get rid of her cargo. No more will she loiter and pry +around anything and everything, from an island to a balk of drift-wood, +that comes in her way, knowing not the meaning of "waste of time." The +"crow's-nests" are dismantled, taut topgallant-masts sent up, and royal +yards crossed. As soon as we get to sea we shall turn-to and heave that +ancient fabric of bricks and mortar--always a queer-looking erection to +be cumbering a ship's deck--piecemeal over the side. It has long been +shaky and weather-beaten; it will soon obstruct our movements no more. +Our rigging has all been set up and tarred down; we have painted hull +and spars, and scraped wherever the wood-work is kept bright. All gear +belonging to whaling has been taken out of the boats, carefully cleaned, +oiled, and stowed away for a "full due." Two of the boats have been +taken inboard, and stowed bottom-up upon the gallows aft, as any +other merchantman carries them. At last, our multifarious preparations +completed, we ride ready for sea. + +It was quite in accordance with the fitness of things that, when all +things were now ready for our departure, there should come a change of +wind that threatened to hold us prisoners for some days longer. But our +"old man" was hard to beat, and he reckoned that, if we could only get +out of the "pond," he would work her across to the Bluff somehow or +other. So we ran out a kedge with a couple of lines to it, and warped +her out of the weather side of the harbour, finding, when at last we +got her clear, that she would lay her course across the Straits to clear +Ruapuke--nearly; but the current had to be reckoned with. Before we +reached that obstructing island we were down at the eastern end of it, +and obliged to anchor promptly to save ourselves from being swept down +the coast many miles to leeward of our port. + +But the skipper was quite equal to the occasion. Ordering his boat, +he sped away into Bluff harbour, only a matter of six or seven miles, +returning soon with a tug, who for a pound or two placed us, without +further trouble, alongside the wharf, amongst some magnificent clipper +ships of Messrs. Henderson's and the New Zealand Shipping Co.'s, who +seemed to turn up their splendid noses at the squat, dumpy, antiquated +old serving-mallet that dared to mingle with so august a crowd. There +had been a time, not so very far back, when I should have shared their +apparent contempt for our homely old tub; but my voyage had taught me, +among other things, that, as far as true comfort went at sea, not a +"three-skysail-yarder" among them could compare with the CACHALOT. And +I was extremely glad that my passage round the Horn was to be in my own +ship, and not in a long, snaky tank that, in the language of the sailor, +takes a header when she gets outside the harbour, and only comes up two +or three times to blow before she gets home. + +Our only reason for visiting this place being to discharge Captain +Count's oil, and procure a sea-stock of salt provisions and hard bread, +these duties were taken in hand at once. The skipper sold his venture of +oil to good advantage, being so pleased with his success that he gave us +all a good feed on the strength of it. + +As soon as the stores were embarked and everything ready for sea, +leave was given to all hands for twenty-four hours, upon the distinct +understanding that the privilege was not to be abused, to the detriment +of everybody, who, as might be supposed, were anxious to start for +home. In order that there might be less temptation to go on the spree +generally, a grand picnic was organized to a beautiful valley some +distance from the town. Carriages were chartered, an enormous quantity +of eatables and drinkables provided, and away we went, a regular +wayzgoose or bean-feast party. It was such a huge success, that I have +ever since wondered why such outings cannot become usual among sailors +on liberty abroad, instead of the senseless, vicious waste of health, +time, and hard-earned wages which is general. But I must not let myself +loose upon this theme again, or we shall never get to sea. + +Liberty over without any trouble arising, and all hands comfortably on +board again, the news ran round that we were to sail in the morning. +So, after a good night's rest, we cast loose from the wharf, and, with +a little assistance from the same useful tug that brought us in, got +fairly out to sea. All sail was set to a strong, steady north-wester, +and with yards canted the least bit in the world on the port tack, so +that every stitch was drawing, we began our long easterly stretch to the +Horn, homeward bound at last. + +Favoured by wind and weather, we made an average run of one hundred and +eighty miles per day for many days, paying no attention to "great circle +sailing," since in such a slow ship the net gain to be secured by going +to a high latitude was very small, but dodging comfortably along on +about the parallel of 48deg. S., until it became necessary to draw down +towards "Cape Stiff," as that dreaded extremity of South America, Cape +Horn, is familiarly called by seamen. As we did so, icebergs became +numerous, at one time over seventy being in sight at once. Some of them +were of immense size--one, indeed, that could hardly be fitly described +as an iceberg, but more properly an ice-field, with many bergs rising +out of it, being over sixty miles long, while some of its towering peaks +were estimated at from five hundred to one thousand feet high. Happily, +the weather kept clear; for icebergs and fog make a combination truly +appalling to the sailor, especially if there be much wind blowing. + +Needless, perhaps, to say, our look-out was of the best, for all hands +had a double interest in the safety of the ship. Perhaps it may be +thought that any man would have so much regard for the safety of his +life that he would not think of sleeping on his look-out; but I can +assure my readers that, strange as it may seem, such is not the case, I +have known men who could never be trusted not to go to sleep, no matter +how great the danger. This is so well recognized in merchant ships that +nearly every officer acts as if there was no look-out at all forward, in +case his supposed watchman should be having a surreptitious doze. + +Stronger and stronger blew the brave west wind; dirtier, gloomier, and +colder grew the weather, until, reduced to two topsails and a reefed +foresail, we were scudding dead before the gale for all we were worth. +This was a novel experience for us in the CACHALOT, and I was curious +to see how she would behave. To my mind, the supreme test of a ship's +sea-kindliness is the length of time she will scud before a gale without +"pooping" a sea, or taking such heavy water on board over her sides +as to do serious damage. Some ships are very dangerous to run at all. +Endeavouring to make the best use of the gale which is blowing in the +right direction, the captain "hangs on" to all the sail he can carry, +until she ships a mighty mass of water over all, so that the decks +are filled with wreckage, or, worse still, "poops" a sea. The latter +experience is a terrible one, even to a trained seaman. You are running +before the wind and waves, sometimes deep in the valley between two +liquid mountains, sometimes high on the rolling ridge of one. You watch +anxiously the speed of the sea, trying to decide whether it or you are +going the faster, when suddenly there seems to be a hush, almost a +lull, in the uproar. You look astern, and see a wall of water rising +majestically higher and higher, at the same time drawing nearer and +nearer. Instinctively you clutch at something firm, and hold your +breath. Then that mighty green barrier leans forward, the ship's stern +seems to settle at the same time, and, with a thundering noise as of +an avalanche descending, it overwhelms you. Of course the ship's way is +deadened; she seems like a living thing overburdened, yet struggling to +be free; and well it is for all hands if the helmsman be able to keep +his post and his wits about him. For if he be hurt, or have fled from +the terrible wave, it is an even chance that she "broaches to;" that is +to say, swings round broadside on to the next great wave that follows +relentlessly its predecessor. Then, helpless and vulnerable, she will +most probably be smashed up and founder. Many a good ship has gone with +all hands to the bottom just as simply as that. + +In order to avoid such a catastrophe, the proper procedure is to +"heave-to" before the sea has attained so dangerous a height; but even a +landsman can understand how reluctant a shipmaster may be to lie like +a log just drifting, while a more seaworthy ship is flying along at the +rate of, perhaps, three hundred miles a day in the desired direction. +Ships of the CACHALOT's bluff build are peculiarly liable to delays of +this kind from their slowness, which, if allied to want of buoyancy, +makes it necessary to heave-to in good time, if safety is at all cared +for. + +To my great astonishment and delight, however, our grand old vessel +nobly sustained her character, running on without shipping any heavy +water, although sometimes hedged in on either side by gigantic waves +that seemed to tower as high as her lowermast heads. Again and again +we were caught up and passed by the splendid homeward-bound colonial +packets, some of them carrying an appalling press of canvas, under +which the long, snaky hulls, often overwhelmed by the foaming seas, were +hardly visible, so insignificant did they appear by comparison with the +snowy mountain of swelling sail above. + +So we fared eastward and ever southward, until in due time up rose the +gloomy, storm-scarred crags of the Diego Ramirez rocks, grim outposts +of the New World. To us, though, they bore no terrific aspect; for were +they not the turning-point from which we could steer north, our head +pointed for home? Immediately upon rounding them we hauled up four +points, and, with daily improving weather climbed the southern slopes +towards the line. + +Very humdrum and quiet the life appeared to all of us, and had it not +been for the saving routine of work by day, and watch by night, kept up +with all our old discipline, the tedium would have been insupportable +after the incessant excitement of expectation to which we had so long +been accustomed. Still, our passage was by no means a bad one for a slow +ship, being favoured by more than ordinarily steadfast winds until we +reached the zone of the south-east trades again, where the usual mild, +settled wind and lovely weather awaited us. On and on, unhasting but +unresting, we stolidly jogged, by great good fortune slipping across the +"doldrums"--that hateful belt of calms about the line so much detested +by all sailor-men--without losing the south-east wind. + +Not one day of calm delayed us, the north-east trades meeting us like a +friend sent to extend a welcoming hand and lend us his assistance on our +homeward way. They hung so far to the eastward, too--sometimes actually +at east-by-north-that we were able to steer north on the starboard +tack--a slice of luck not usually met with. This "slant" put all hands +in the best of humours, and already the date of our arrival was settled +by the more sanguine ones, as well as excellent plans made for spending +the long voyage's earnings. + +For my part, having been, in spite of my youth, accustomed to so many +cruel disappointments and slips between the cup and lip, I was afraid to +dwell too hopefully upon the pleasures (?) of getting ashore. And after +the incident which I have now to record occurred, I felt more nervous +distrust than I had ever felt before at sea since first I began to +experience the many vicissitudes of a sailor's life. + +We had reached the northern verge of the tropics in a very short time, +owing to the favourable cant in the usual direction of the north-east +trades before noted, and had been met with north-westerly winds and +thick, dirty weather, which was somewhat unusual in so low a latitude. +Our look-outs redoubled their vigilance, one being posted on each bow +always at night, and relieved every hour, as we were so well manned. We +were now on the port tack, of course, heading about north-east-by-north, +and right in the track of outward-hound vessels from both the United +Kingdom and the States. One morning, about three a.m.--that fateful +time in the middle watch when more collisions occur than at any +other--suddenly out of the darkness a huge ship seemed to leap right at +us. She must have come up in a squall, of which there were many about, +at the rate of some twelve knots an hour, having a fair wind, and every +rag of sail set. Not a gleam of light was visible anywhere on board of +her, and, to judge from all appearances, the only man awake on board was +the helmsman. + +We, being "on the wind, close-hauled," were bound by the "rule of the +road at sea" to keep our course when meeting a ship running free. The +penalty for doing ANYTHING under such circumstances is a severe one. +First of all, you do not KNOW that the other ship's crew are asleep or +negligent, even though they carry no lights; for, by a truly infernal +parsimony, many vessels actually do not carry oil enough to keep their +lamps burning all the voyage, and must therefore economize in this +unspeakably dangerous fashion. And it may be that just as you alter your +course, daring no longer to hold on, and, as you have every reason to +believe, be run down, the other man alters his. Then a few breathless +moments ensue, an awful crash, and the two vessels tear each other to +pieces, spilling the life that they contain over the hungry sea. Even if +you escape, YOU are to blame for not keeping your course, unless it can +be proved that you were not seen by the running ship. + +Well, we kept our course until, I verily believe, another plunge would +have cut us sheer in two halves. At the last moment our helm was put +hard down, bringing our vessel right up into the wind at the same +moment as the helmsman on board the other vessel caught sight of us, and +instinctively put his helm down too. The two vessels swung side by side +amidst a thunderous roar of flapping canvas, crackling of fallen spars, +and rending of wood as the shrouds tore away the bulwarks. All our +davits were ripped from the starboard side, and most of our bulwarks +too; but, strangely enough, we lost no spars nor any important gear. +There seemed to be a good deal of damage done on board the stranger, +where, in addition, all hands were at their wits' end. Well they might +be, aroused from so criminal a sleep as theirs. Fortunately, the third +mate had powerful bull's-eye lantern, which in his watch on deck he +always kept lighted. Turning it on the stern of the delinquent vessel +as she slowly forged clear of us, we easily read her name, which, for +shame's sake as well as for prudential reasons, I withhold. She was a +London ship, and a pretty fine time of it I had for the next day or +two, listening to the jeers and sarcasms on the quality of British +seamanship. + +Repairing damages kept us busy for a few days; but whatever of +thankfulness we were capable of feeling was aroused by this hairbreadth +escape from death through the wicked neglect of the most elementary duty +of any man calling himself a seaman. + +Then a period of regular Western-ocean weather set in. It was early +spring in the third year since our departure from this part of the +world, and the north-easter blew with bitter severity, making even the +seasoned old captain wince again; but, as he jovially said, "it smelt +homey, n' HE warn't a-goin' ter growl at thet." Neither were any of +us, although we could have done with less of a sharp edge to it all the +same. + +Steadily we battled northward, until at last, with full hearts, we made +Cape Navesink ("Ole Neversunk"), and on the next day took a tug and +towed into New Bedford with every flag we could scare up flying, the +centre of admiration--a full whale-ship safe back from her long, long +fishing round the world. + +My pleasant talk is done. I wish from my heart it were better performed; +but, having done my best, I must perforce be content. If in some small +measure I have been able to make you, my friendly reader, acquainted +with a little-known or appreciated side of life, and in any wise made +that life a real matter to you, giving you a fresh interest in the +toilers of the sea, my work has not been wholly in vain. And with that +fond hope I give you the sailor's valedictory-- + +SO LONG! + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Cruise of the Cachalot, by Frank T. 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