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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:16:57 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:16:57 -0700 |
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diff --git a/1356-h/1356-h.htm b/1356-h/1356-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1682199 --- /dev/null +++ b/1356-h/1356-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,11041 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + The Cruise of the 'Cachalot', by Frank T. Bullen + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1356 ***</div> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h1> + THE CRUISE OF THE "CACHALOT" + </h1> + <h2> + ROUND THE WORLD AFTER SPERM WHALES + </h2> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Frank T. Bullen, F.R.G.S. + </h2> + <h3> + First Mate + </h3> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h4> + To<br /> <br /> Miss Emily Hensley<br /> <br /> In grateful remembrance of + thirty years' constant friendship and<br /> practical help this work is + affectionately dedicated by her<br /> humble pupil. + </h4> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + PREFACE + </h2> + <p> + In the following pages an attempt has been made—it is believed for + the first time—to give an account of the cruise of a South Sea + whaler from the seaman's standpoint. Two very useful books have been + published—both of them over half a century ago—on the same + subject; but, being written by the surgeons of whale-ships for scientific + purposes, neither of them was interesting to the general reader. + ["Narrative of a Whaling Voyage round the Globe," by F Debell Bennett, + F.R.C.S. (2 vols). Bentley, London (1840). "The Sperm Whale Fishery," by + Thomas Beale, M.R.C.S. London (1835).] They have both been long out of + print; but their value to the student of natural history has been, and + still is, very great, Dr. Beale's book, in particular, being still the + authority on the sperm whale. + </p> + <p> + This book does not pretend to compete with either of the above valuable + works. Its aims is to present to the general reader a simple account of + the methods employed, and the dangers met with, in a calling about which + the great mass of the public knows absolutely nothing. Pending the advent + of some great writer who shall see the wonderful possibilities for + literature contained in the world-wide wanderings of the South Sea + whale-fishers, the author has endeavoured to summarize his experiences so + that they may be read without weariness, and, it is hoped, with profit. + </p> + <p> + The manifold shortcomings of the work will not, it is trusted, be laid to + the account of the subject, than which none more interesting could well be + imagined, but to the limitations of the writer, whose long experience of + sea life has done little to foster the literary faculty. + </p> + <p> + One claim may be made with perfect confidence—that if the manner be + not all that could be wished, the matter is entirely trustworthy, being + compiled from actual observation and experience, and in no case at + second-hand. An endeavour has also been made to exclude such matter as is + easily obtainable elsewhere—matters of common knowledge and + "padding" of any sort—the object not being simply the making of a + book, but the record of little-known facts. + </p> + <p> + Great care has been taken to use no names either of ships or persons, + which could, by being identified, give annoyance or pain to any one, as in + many cases strong language has been necessary for the expression of + opinions. + </p> + <p> + Finally, the author hopes that, although in no sense exclusively a book + for boys, the coming generation may find this volume readable and + interesting; and with that desire he offers it confidently, though in all + humility, to that great impartial jury, the public. + </p> + <p> + F.T.B. Dulwich, July, 1897. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE </a><br /> <a href="#link2H_TOC"> + DETAILED CONTENTS </a><br /> <a href="#link2H_INTR"> INTRODUCTION </a><br /><br /> + <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> <b>THE CRUISE OF THE "CACHALOT"</b> </a><br /><br /> + <a href="#link2HCH0001"> CHAPTER I. </a> OUTWARD BOUND <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2HCH0002"> CHAPTER II. </a> PREPARING FOR + ACTION <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0003"> CHAPTER III. </a> FISHING + BEGINS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0004"> CHAPTER IV. </a> BAD + WEATHER <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0005"> CHAPTER V. </a> ACTUAL + WARFARE. OUR FIRST WHALE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0006"> CHAPTER VI. + </a> "DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY" <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0007"> CHAPTER VII. </a> GETTING SOUTHWARD + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0008"> CHAPTER VIII. </a> ABNER'S + WHALE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0009"> CHAPTER IX. </a> OUR + FIRST CALLING-PLACE <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0010"> CHAPTER X. </a> A + VISIT TO SOME STRANGE PLACES <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0011"> CHAPTER + XI. </a> ROUND THE COCOS AND SEYCHELLES <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0012"> CHAPTER XII. </a> WHICH TREATS OF THE + KRAKEN <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0013"> CHAPTER XIII. </a> OFF + TO THE JAPAN GROUNDS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0014"> CHAPTER XIV. + </a> LIBERTY DAY—AND AFTER <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0015"> CHAPTER XV. </a> WHICH COMES + UNCOMFORTABLY NEAR BEING THE LAST <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0016"> + CHAPTER XVI. </a> "BOWHEAD" FISHING <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0017"> CHAPTER XVII. </a> VISIT TO HONOLULU + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0018"> CHAPTER XVIII. </a> ON + THE "LINE" GROUNDS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0019"> CHAPTER XIX. </a> EDGING + SOUTHWARD <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0020"> CHAPTER XX. </a> "HUMPBACKING" + AT VAU VAU <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0021"> CHAPTER XXI. </a> PROGRESS + OF THE "HUMPBACK" SEASON <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0022"> CHAPTER + XXII. </a> FAREWELL TO VAU VAU <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0023"> CHAPTER XXIII. </a> AT FUTUNA, + RECRUITING <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0024"> CHAPTER XXIV. </a> THE + BAY OF ISLANDS AND NEW ZEALAND COAST <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0025"> + CHAPTER XXV. </a> ON THE SOLANDER GROUNDS <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0026"> CHAPTER XXVI. </a> PADDY'S LATEST + EXPLOIT <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0027"> CHAPTER XXVII. </a> PORT + PEGASUS <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0028"> CHAPTER XXVIII. </a> TO + THE BLUFF, AND HOME <br /><br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_TOC" id="link2H_TOC"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + DETAILED CONTENTS + </h2> + <blockquote> + <p> + <br />CHAPTER I—OUTWARD BOUND Adrift in New Bedford—I get a + ship—A <br /> motley crowd—"Built by the mile, and cut off as + you want 'em"—Mistah <br /> Jones—Greenies—Off to sea. + <br /> <br />CHAPTER II—PREPARING FOR ACTION Primitive steering-gear—Strange + <br /> drill—Misery below—Short commons—Goliath rigs + the <br /> "crow's-nest"—Useful information—Preparing for war—Strange + weapons—A <br /> boat-load. <br /> <br />CHAPTER III—FISHING + BEGINS The cleanliness of a whale-ship—No <br /> skulking—Porpoise-fishing—Cannibals—Cooking + operations—Boat-drill—A <br /> good look-out—"Black-fishing"—Roguery + in all trades—Plenty of fresh <br /> beef—The nursery of + American whalemen. <br /> <br />CHAPTER IV—BAD WEATHER Nautical + routine—The first gale—Comfort <br /> versus speed—A + grand sea-boat—The Sargasso Sea—Natural history <br /> + pursuits—Dolphin—Unconventional fishing—Rumours of a + visit to the <br /> Cape Verdes—Babel below—No allowance, but + not "full and plenty"—Queer <br /> washing—Method of sharing + rations—The "slop-shop" opened—Our <br /> prospects. <br /> + <br />CHAPTER V—ACTUAL WARFARE. OUR FIRST WHALE Premonitions—Discussion + <br /> on whaling from unknown premisses—I wake in a fright—Sperm + whales <br /> at last—The war begins—Warning—We get + fast—and get loose—In <br /> trouble—an uncomfortable + situation—No Pity-Only one whale—Rigging the <br /> + "cutting-stage"—Securing the whale alongside. <br /> <br />CHAPTER + VI—"DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY" Goliath in trouble—Commence + <br /> "cutting-in"—A heavy head—A tank of spermaceti—Decks + running <br /> with oil—A "Patent" mincing-machine—Extensive + cooking—Dangerous <br /> work—Three tuns of oil—A + horrible mess—A thin-skinned monster—A fine <br /> mouth of + teeth. <br /> <br />CHAPTER VII—GETTING SOUTHWARD Captain Slocum's + <br /> amenities—Expensive beer—St. Paul's Rocks—"Bonito"—"Showery" + <br /> weather—Waterspouts—Calms—A friendly finback—A + disquisition on <br /> whales by Mistah Jones—Flying-fishing. <br /> + <br />CHAPTER VIII—ABNER'S WHALE Abner in luck—A big "fish" + at last—A feat <br /> of endurance—A fighting whale—The + sperm whale's food—Ambergris—A <br /> good reception—Hard + labour—Abner's reward—"Scrimshaw". <br /> <br />CHAPTER IX—OUR + FIRST CALLING-PLACE A forced march—Tristan <br /> d'Acunha—Visitors—Fresh + provisions—A warm welcome—Goliath's <br /> turn—a + feathered host—Good gear—A rough time—Creeping <br /> + north—Uncertainty—"Rule of thumb"—navigation—The + Mozambique Channel. <br /> <br />CHAPTER X—A VISIT TO SOME STRANGE + PLACES Tropical thunderstorms—A <br /> "record" day's fishing—Cetacean + frivolities—Mistah Jones moralizes—A <br /> snug harbour—Wooding + and watering—Catching a turtle—Catching a <br /> "Tartar"—A + violent death—A crooked jaw—Aldabra Island—Primeval + <br /> inhabitants—A strange steed—"Pirate" birds—Good + eggs—Green <br /> cocoa-nuts—More turtle—A school of + "kogia". <br /> <br />CHAPTER XI—ROUND THE COCOS AND SEYCHELLES We + encounter a "cyclone"—A <br /> tremendous gust—a foundering + ship—To anchor for repairs—The <br /> Cocos—Repairing + damages—Around the Seychelles—A "milk" sea—A <br /> + derelict prahu—A ghastly freight—A stagnant sea. <br /> <br />CHAPTER + XII—WHICH TREATS OF THE KRAKEN "Eyes and no eyes" at sea—Of + <br /> big mollusca—The origin of sea-serpent stories—Rediscovery + of the <br /> "Kraken"—A conflict of monsters—"The insatiable + nightmares of the <br /> sea"—Spermaceti running to waste—The + East Indian maze. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XIII—OFF TO THE JAPAN GROUNDS + A whale off Hong Kong—The <br /> skipper and his "'bomb-gun"—Injury + to the captain—Unwelcome <br /> visitors—The heathen Chinee—We + get safe off—"Death of Portagee <br /> Jim"—The Funeral—The + Coast of Japan—Port Lloyd—Meeting of <br /> whale-ships. + <br /> <br />CHAPTER XIV—LIBERTY DAY—AND AFTER Liberty day—I + foregather with <br /> a "beach-comber"—A big fight—Goliath + on the war-path—A <br /> court-martial—Wholesale flogging—a + miserable crowd—Quite a fleet of <br /> whale-ships—I "raise" + a sperm whale—Severe competition—An unfortunate <br /> stroke—The + skipper distinguishes himself. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XV—WHICH COMES + UNCOMFORTABLY NEAR BEING THE LAST I come <br /> to grief—Emulating + Jonah—Sharing a flurry—A long spell of <br /> sick-leave—The + whale's "sixth sense"—Off to the Kuriles—Prepare for <br /> + "bowhead" fishing—The Sea of Okhotsk—Abundant salmon—The + "daintiness" <br /> of seamen. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XVI—"BOWHEAD" + FISHING Difference between whales—Popular ideas <br /> exploded—The + gentle mysticetus—Very tame work—Fond of tongue—Goliath + <br /> confides in me—An awful affair—Captain Slocum's death—"Not + Amurath an <br /> Amurath succeeds"—I am promoted. <br /> <br />CHAPTER + XVII—VISIT TO HONOLULU Towards Honolulu—Missionaries and + their <br /> critics—The happy Kanaka—Honolulu—A + pleasant holiday. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XVIII—ON THE "LINE" GROUNDS I + get my opportunity—A <br /> new harpooner—Feats under the + skipper's eye—Two whales on one <br /> line—Compliments Heavy + towage—A grand haul. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XIX—EDGING SOUTHWARD + Monotony—A school of blackfish—A boat <br /> ripped in half—A + multitude of sharks—A curious backbone—Christmas <br /> Day—A + novel Christmas dinner—A find of ambergris. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XX—"HUMPBACKING" + AT VAU VAU "Gamming" again—a <br /> Whitechapel rover—arrive + at Vau Vau—Valuable friends—a Sunday <br /> ashore—"Hollingside"—The + natives at church—Full-dress—Very <br /> "mishnally"—Idyllic + cruising—Wonderful mother-love—A mighty feast. <br /> <br />CHAPTER + XXI—PROGRESS OF THE "HUMPBACK" SEASON A fruitless chase—Placid + <br /> times—a stirring adventure—a vast cave—Unforeseen + company—A night <br /> of terror—We provide a feast for the + sharks—the death of Abner—An <br /> impressive ceremony—an + invitation to dinner—Kanaka cookery. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XXII—FAREWELL + TO VAU VAU Ignorance of the habits of whales—A <br /> terrific + encounter—VAE VICTIS—Rewarding our "flems"—We leave + Van <br /> Vau—The Outward bounder—Sailors' "homes"—A + night of horror—Sudden <br /> death—Futuna. <br /> <br />CHAPTER + XXIII—AT FUTUNA, RECRUITING A fleet of nondescripts—"Tui + <br /> Tongoa" otherwise Sam—Eager recruits—Devout Catholics—A + visit to <br /> Sunday Island—A Crusoe family—Their eviction—Maori + cabbage—Fine <br /> fishing—Away for New Zealand—Sight + the "Three Kings"—The Bay of <br /> Islands. <br /> <br />CHAPTER + XXIV—THE BAY OF ISLANDS AND NEW ZEALAND COAST Sleepy <br /> hollow—Wood + and water—liberty day—A plea for the sailors' <br /> + recreation—Our picnic—A a whiff of "May"—A delightful + excursion—To <br /> the southward again—Wintry weather—Enter + Foveaux Straits. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XXV—ON THE SOLANDER GROUNDS + Firstfruits of the Solander—An <br /> easy catch—Delights of + the Solander—Port William—The <br /> old CHANCE—"Paddy + Gilroy"—Barbarians from the East <br /> End—Barracouta-Fishing—Wind-bound—An + enormous school of <br /> cachalots—Misfortune—A bursting + whale—Back on the Solander <br /> again—Cutting-in at Port + William—Studying anatomy—Badly battered <br /> Yankees—Paddy + in luck again. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XXVI—PADDY'S LATEST EXPLOIT We + try Preservation Inlet—An <br /> astounding feat of Paddy Gilroy's. + <br /> <br />CHAPTER XXVII—PORT PEGASUS Port Pegasus—Among old + <br /> acquaintances—"Mutton birds"—Skilled auxiliaries—A + gratifying <br /> catch—Leave port again—Back to the Solander—A + grim escape—Our last <br /> whales—Into Port William again—Paddy's + assistance—We part with our <br /> Kanakas—Sam's plans of + conquest. <br /> <br />CHAPTER XXVIII—TO THE BLUFF, AND HOME And + last—In high-toned <br /> company—Another picnic—Depart + from the Bluff—Hey for the Horn!—Among <br /> the icebergs—"Scudding"—Favouring + trades—A narrow escape from <br /> collision—Home at last. + <br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_INTR" id="link2H_INTR"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <h2> + INTRODUCTION + </h2> + <p> + Without attempting the ambitious task of presenting a comprehensive sketch + of the origin, rise, and fall of whale-fishing as a whole, it seems + necessary to give a brief outline of that portion of the subject bearing + upon the theme of the present book before plunging into the first chapter. + </p> + <p> + This preliminary is the more needed for the reason alluded to in the + Preface—the want of knowledge of the subject that is apparent + everywhere. The Greenland whale fishery has been so popularized that most + people know something about it; the sperm whale fishery still awaits its + Scoresby and a like train of imitators and borrowers. + </p> + <p> + Cachalots, or sperm whales, must have been captured on the coasts of + Europe in a desultory way from a very early date, by the incidental + allusions to the prime products spermaceti and ambergris which are found + in so many ancient writers, Shakespeare's reference—"The + sovereign'st thing on earth was parmaceti for an inward bruise"—will + be familiar to most people, as well as Milton's mention of the delicacies + at Satan's feast—"Grisamber steamed"—not to carry quotation + any further. + </p> + <p> + But in the year 1690 the brave and hardy fishermen of the north-east + coasts of North America established that systematic pursuit of the + cachalot which has thriven so wonderfully ever since, although it must be + confessed that the last few years have witnessed a serious decline in this + great branch of trade. + </p> + <p> + For many years the American colonists completely engrossed this branch of + the whale fishery, contentedly leaving to Great Britain and the + continental nations the monopoly of the northern or Arctic fisheries, + while they cruised the stormy, if milder, seas around their own shores. + </p> + <p> + For the resultant products, their best customer was the mother country, + and a lucrative commerce steadily grew up between the two countries. But + when the march of events brought the unfortunate and wholly unnecessary + War of Independence, this flourishing trade was the first to suffer, and + many of the daring fishermen became our fiercest foes on board their own + men-of-war. + </p> + <p> + The total stoppage of the importation of sperm oil and spermaceti was + naturally severely felt in England, for time had not permitted the + invention of substitutes. In consequence of this, ten ships were equipped + and sent out to the sperm whale fishery from England in 1776, most of them + owned by one London firm, the Messrs. Enderby. The next year, in order to + encourage the infant enterprise, a Government bounty, graduated from L500 + to L1000 per ship, was granted. Under this fostering care the number of + ships engaged in the sperm whale fishery progressively increased until + 1791, when it attained its maximum. + </p> + <p> + This method of whaling being quite new to our whalemen, it was necessary, + at great cost, to hire American officers and harpooners to instruct them + in the ways of dealing with these highly active and dangerous cetacea. + Naturally, it was by-and-by found possible to dispense with the services + of these auxiliaries; but it must be confessed that the business never + seems to have found such favour, or to have been prosecuted with such + smartness, among our whalemen as it has by the Americans. + </p> + <p> + Something of an exotic the trade always was among us, although it did + attain considerable proportions at one time. At first the fishing was + confined to the Atlantic Ocean; nor for many years was it necessary to go + farther afield, as abundance of whales could easily be found. + </p> + <p> + As, however, the number of ships engaged increased, it was inevitable that + the known grounds should become exhausted, and in 1788 Messrs. Enderby's + ship, the EMILIA, first ventured round Cape Horn, as the pioneer of a + greater trade than ever. The way once pointed out, other ships were not + slow to follow, until, in 1819, the British whale-ship SYREN opened up the + till then unexplored tract of ocean in the western part of the North + Pacific, afterwards familiarly known as the "Coast of Japan." From these + teeming waters alone, for many years an average annual catch of 40,000 + barrels of oil was taken, which, at the average price of L8 per barrel, + will give some idea of the value of the trade generally. + </p> + <p> + The Australian colonists, early in their career, found the sperm whale + fishery easy of access from all their coasts, and especially lucrative. At + one time they bade fair to establish a whale fishery that should rival the + splendid trade of the Americans; but, like the mother country, they + permitted the fishery to decline, so that even bounties could not keep it + alive. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, the Americans added to their fleet continually, prospering + amazingly. But suddenly the advent of the civil war let loose among those + peaceable cruisers the devastating ALABAMA, whose course was marked in + some parts of the world by the fires of blazing whale-ships. A great part, + of the Geneva award was on this account, although it must be acknowledged + that many pseudo-owners were enriched who never owned aught but brazen + impudence and influential friends to push their fictitious claims. The + real sufferers, seamen especially, in most cases never received any + redress whatever. + </p> + <p> + From this crushing blow the American sperm whale fishery has never fully + recovered. When the writer was in the trade, some twenty-two years ago, it + was credited with a fleet of between three and four hundred sail; now it + may be doubted whether the numbers reach an eighth of that amount. A rigid + conservatism of method hinders any revival of the industry, which is + practically conducted to-day as it was fifty, or even a hundred years ago; + and it is probable that another decade will witness the final extinction + of what was once one of the most important maritime industries in the + world. + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h1> + THE CRUISE OF THE "CACHALOT" + </h1> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER I. OUTWARD BOUND + </h2> + <p> + At the age of eighteen, after a sea-experience of six years from the time + when I dodged about London streets, a ragged Arab, with wits sharpened by + the constant fight for food, I found myself roaming the streets of New + Bedford, Massachusetts. How I came to be there, of all places in the + world, does not concern this story at all, so I am not going to trouble my + readers with it; enough to say that I WAS there, and mighty anxious to get + away. Sailor Jack is always hankering for shore when he is at sea, but + when he is "outward bound"—that is, when his money is all gone—he + is like a cat in the rain there. + </p> + <p> + So as MY money was all gone, I was hungry for a ship; and when a long, + keen-looking man with a goat-like beard, and mouth stained with dry + tobacco-juice, hailed me one afternoon at the street-corner, I answered + very promptly, scenting a berth. "Lookin' fer a ship, stranger?" said he. + "Yes; do you want a hand?" said I, anxiously. He made a funny little sound + something like a pony's whinny, then answered, "Wall, I should surmise + that I want between fifty and sixty hands, ef yew kin lay me onto 'em; + but, kem along, every dreep's a drop, an' yew seem likely enough." With + that he turned and led the way until we reached a building around which + were gathered one of the most nondescript crowds I had ever seen. There + certainly did not appear to be a sailor among them. Not so much by their + rig, though that is not a great deal to go by, but by their actions and + speech. One thing they all had in common, tobacco chewing but as nearly + every male I met with in America did that, it was not much to be noticed. + I had hardly done reckoning them up when two or three bustling men came + out and shepherded us all energetically into a long, low room, where some + form of agreement was read out to us. Sailors are naturally and usually + careless about the nature of the "articles" they sign, their chief anxiety + being to get to sea, and under somebody's charge. But had I been ever so + anxious to know what I was going to sign this time, I could not, for the + language might as well have been Chinese for all I understood of it. + However, I signed and passed on, engaged to go I knew not where, in some + ship I did not know even the name of, in which I was to receive I did not + know how much, or how little, for my labour, nor how long I was going to + be away. "What a young fool!" I hear somebody say. I quite agree, but + there were a good many more in that ship, as in most ships that I have + ever sailed in. + </p> + <p> + From the time we signed the articles, we were never left to ourselves. + Truculent-looking men accompanied us to our several boarding-houses, paid + our debts for us, finally bringing us by boat to a ship lying out in the + bay. As we passed under her stern, I read the name CACHALOT, of New + Bedford; but as soon as we ranged alongside, I realized that I was booked + for the sailor's horror—a cruise in a whaler. Badly as I wanted to + get to sea, I had not bargained for this, and would have run some risks to + get ashore again; but they took no chances, so we were all soon aboard. + Before going forward, I took a comprehensive glance around, and saw that I + was on board of a vessel belonging to a type which has almost disappeared + off the face of the waters. A more perfect contrast to the trim-built + English clipper-ships that I had been accustomed to I could hardly + imagine. She was one of a class characterized by sailors as "built by the + mile, and cut off in lengths as you want 'em," bow and stern almost alike, + masts standing straight as broomsticks, and bowsprit soaring upwards at an + angle of about forty-five degrees. She was as old-fashioned in her rig as + in her hull; but I must not go into the technical differences between + rigs, for fear of making myself tedious. Right in the centre of the deck, + occupying a space of about ten feet by eight, was a square erection of + brickwork, upon which my wondering gaze rested longest, for I had not the + slightest idea what it could be. But I was rudely roused from my + meditations by the harsh voice of one of the officers, who shouted, "Naow + then, git below an' stow yer dunnage, 'n look lively up agin." I took the + broad hint, and shouldering my traps, hurried forward to the fo'lk'sle, + which was below deck. Tumbling down the steep ladder, I entered the gloomy + den which was to be for so long my home, finding it fairly packed with my + shipmates. A motley crowd they were. I had been used in English ships to + considerable variety of nationality; but here were gathered, not only the + representatives of five or six nations, but 'long-shoremen of all kinds, + half of whom had hardly ever set eyes on a ship before! The whole space + was undivided by partition, but I saw at once that black men and white had + separated themselves, the blacks taking the port side and the whites the + starboard. Finding a vacant bunk by the dim glimmer of the ancient teapot + lamp that hung amidships, giving out as much smoke as light, I hurriedly + shifted my coat for a "jumper" or blouse, put on an old cap, and climbed + into the fresh air again. For a double reason, even MY seasoned head was + feeling bad with the villainous reek of the place, and I did not want any + of those hard-featured officers on deck to have any cause to complain of + my "hanging back." On board ship, especially American ships, the first + requisite for a sailor who wants to be treated properly is to "show + willing," any suspicion of slackness being noted immediately, and the + backward one marked accordingly. I had hardly reached the deck when I was + confronted by a negro, the biggest I ever saw in, my life. He looked me up + and down for a moment, then opening his ebony features in a wide smile, he + said, "Great snakes! why, here's a sailor man for sure! Guess thet's so, + ain't it, Johnny?" I said "yes" very curtly, for I hardly liked his + patronizing air; but he snapped me up short with "yes, SIR, when yew speak + to me, yew blank lime-juicer. I'se de fourf mate ob dis yar ship, en my + name's Mistah Jones, 'n yew, jest freeze on to dat ar, ef yew want ter lib + long'n die happy. See, sonny." I SAW, and answered promptly, "I beg your + pardon, sir, I didn't know." "Ob cawse yew didn't know, dat's all right, + little Britisher; naow jest skip aloft 'n loose dat fore-taupsle." "Aye, + aye, sir," I answered cheerily, springing at once into the fore-rigging + and up the ratlines like a monkey, but not too fast to hear him chuckle, + "Dat's a smart kiddy, I bet." I had the big sail loose in double quick + time, and sung out "All gone, the fore-taupsle," before any of the other + sails were adrift. "Loose the to-gantsle and staysles" came up from below + in a voice like thunder, and I bounded up higher to my task. On deck I + could see a crowd at the windlass heaving up anchor. I said to myself, + "They don't waste any time getting this packet away." Evidently they were + not anxious to test any of the crew's swimming powers. They were wise, for + had she remained at anchor that night I verily believe some of the poor + wretches would have tried to escape. + </p> + <p> + The anchor came aweigh, the sails were sheeted home, and I returned on + deck to find the ship gathering way for the heads, fairly started on her + long voyage. + </p> + <p> + What a bear-garden the deck was, to be sure! The black portion of the crew—Portuguese + natives from the Western and Canary Islands—were doing their work + all right in a clumsy fashion; but the farmers, and bakers, and draymen + were being driven about mercilessly amid a perfect hurricane of profanity + and blows. And right here I must say that, accustomed as I had always been + to bad language all my life, what I now heard was a revelation to me. I + would not, if I could, attempt to give a sample of it, but it must be + understood that it was incessant throughout the voyage. No order could be + given without it, under the impression, apparently, that the more curses + the more speed. + </p> + <p> + Before nightfall we were fairly out to sea, and the ceremony of dividing + the crew into watches was gone through. I found myself in the chief mate's + or "port" watch (they called it "larboard," a term I had never heard used + before, it having long been obsolete in merchant ships), though the huge + negro fourth mate seemed none too well pleased that I was not under his + command, his being the starboard watch under the second mate. + </p> + <p> + As night fell, the condition of the "greenies," or non-sailor portion of + the crew, was pitiable. Helpless from sea-sickness, not knowing where to + go or what to do, bullied relentlessly by the ruthless petty officers—well, + I never felt so sorry for a lot of men in my life. Glad enough I was to + get below into the fo'lk'sle for supper, and a brief rest and respite from + that cruelty on deck. A bit of salt junk and a piece of bread, i.e. + biscuit, flinty as a pantile, with a pot of something sweetened with + "longlick" (molasses), made an apology for a meal, and I turned in. In a + very few minutes oblivion came, making me as happy as any man can be in + this world. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER II. PREPARING FOR ACTION + </h2> + <p> + The hideous noise always considered necessary in those ships when calling + the watch, roused me effectively at midnight, "eight bells." I hurried on + deck, fully aware that no leisurely ten minutes would be allowed here. + "Lay aft the watch," saluted me as I emerged into the keen strong air, + quickening my pace according to where the mate stood waiting to muster his + men. As soon as he saw me, he said, "Can you steer?" in a mocking tone; + but when I quietly answered, "Yes, sir," his look of astonishment was + delightful to see. He choked it down, however, and merely telling me to + take the wheel, turned forrard roaring frantically for his watch. I had no + time to chuckle over what I knew was in store for him, getting those poor + greenies collected from their several holes and corners, for on taking the + wheel I found a machine under my hands such as I never even heard of + before. + </p> + <p> + The wheel was fixed upon the tiller in such a manner that the whole + concern travelled backwards and forwards across the deck in the maddest + kind of way. For the first quarter of an hour, in spite of the September + chill, the sweat poured off me in streams. And the course—well, if + was not steering, it was sculling; the old bumboat was wobbling all around + like a drunken tailor with two left legs. I fairly shook with apprehension + lest the mate should come and look in the compass. I had been accustomed + to hard words if I did not steer within half a point each way; but here + was a "gadget" that worked me to death, the result being a wake like a + letter S. Gradually I got the hang of the thing, becoming easier in my + mind on my own account. Even that was not an unmixed blessing, for I had + now some leisure to listen to the goings-on around the deck. + </p> + <p> + Such brutality I never witnessed before. On board of English ships (except + men-of-war) there is practically no discipline, which is bad, but this + sort of thing was maddening. I knew how desperately ill all those poor + wretches were, how helpless and awkward they would be if quite hale and + hearty; but there was absolutely no pity for them, the officers seemed to + be incapable of any feelings of compassion whatever. My heart sank within + me as I thought of what lay before me, although I did not fear that their + treatment would also be mine, since I was at least able to do my duty, and + willing to work hard to keep out of trouble. Then I began to wonder what + sort of voyage I was in for, how long it would last, and what my earnings + were likely to be, none of which things I had the faintest idea of. + </p> + <p> + Fortunately, I was alone in the world. No one, as far as I knew, cared a + straw what became of me; so that I was spared any worry on that head. And + I had also a very definite and well-established trust in God, which I can + now look back and see was as fully justified as I then believed it to be. + So, as I could not shut my ears to the cruelties being carried on, nor + banish thought by hard work, I looked up to the stately stars, thinking of + things not to be talked about without being suspected of cant. So swiftly + passed the time that when four bells struck: (two o'clock) I could hardly + believe my ears. + </p> + <p> + I was relieved by one of the Portuguese, and went forward to witness a + curious scene. Seven stalwart men were being compelled to march up and + down on that tumbling deck, men who had never before trodden anything less + solid than the earth. + </p> + <p> + The third mate, a waspish, spiteful little Yankee with a face like an + angry cat, strolled about among them, a strand of rope-yarns in his hand, + which he wielded constantly, regardless where he struck a man. They fell + about, sometimes four or five at once, and his blows flew thick and fast, + yet he never seemed to weary of his ill-doing. It made me quite sick, and + I longed to be aft at the wheel again. Catching sight of me standing + irresolute as to what I had better do, he ordered me on the "look-out," a + tiny platform between the "knight heads," just where the bowsprit joins + the ship. Gladly I obeyed him, and perched up there looking over the wide + sea, the time passed quickly away until eight bells (four o'clock) + terminated my watch. I must pass rapidly over the condition of things in + the fo'lk'sle, where all the greenies that were allowed below, were + groaning in misery from the stifling atmosphere which made their sickness + so much worse, while even that dreadful place was preferable to what + awaited them on deck. There was a rainbow-coloured halo round the flame of + the lamp, showing how very bad the air was; but in spite of that I turned + in and slept soundly till seven bells (7.20 a.m.) roused us to breakfast. + </p> + <p> + American ships generally have an excellent name for the way they feed + their crews, but the whalers are a notable exception to that good rule. + The food was really worse than that on board any English ship I have ever + sailed in, so scanty also in quantity that it kept all the foremast hands + at starvation point. But grumbling was dangerous, so I gulped down the + dirty mixture mis-named coffee, ate a few fragments of biscuit, and filled + up (?) with a smoke, as many better men are doing this morning. As the + bell struck I hurried on deck—not one moment too soon—for as I + stepped out of the scuttle I saw the third mate coming forward with a + glitter in his eye that boded no good to laggards. + </p> + <p> + Before going any farther I must apologize for using so many capital I's, + but up till the present I had been the only available white member of the + crew forrard. + </p> + <p> + The decks were scrubbed spotlessly clean, and everything was neat and tidy + as on board a man-of-war, contrary to all usual notions of the condition + of a whaler. The mate was in a state of high activity, so I soon found + myself very busily engaged in getting up whale-lines, harpoons, and all + the varied equipment for the pursuit of whales. The number of officers + carried would have been a good crew for the ship, the complete afterguard + comprising captain, four mates, four harpooners or boat-steerers, + carpenter, cooper, steward and cook. All these worthies were on deck and + working with might and main at the preparations, so that the incompetence + of the crowd forrard was little hindrance. I was pounced upon by "Mistah" + Jones, the fourth mate, whom I heard addressed familiarly as "Goliath" and + "Anak" by his brother officers, and ordered to assist him in rigging the + "crow's-nest" at the main royal-mast head. It was a simple affair. There + were a pair of cross-trees fitted to the mast, upon which was secured a + tiny platform about a foot wide on each side of the mast, while above this + foothold a couple of padded hoops like a pair of giant spectacles were + secured at a little higher than a man's waist. When all was fast one could + creep up on the platform, through the hoop, and, resting his arms upon the + latter, stand comfortably and gaze around, no matter how vigorously the + old barky plunged and kicked beneath him. From that lofty eyrie I had a + comprehensive view of the vessel. She was about 350 tons and full + ship-rigged, that is to say, she carried square sails on all three masts. + Her deck was flush fore and aft, the only obstructions being the + brick-built "try-works" in the waist, the galley, and cabin skylight right + aft by the taffrail. Her bulwarks were set thickly round with clumsy + looking wooden cranes, from which depended five boats. Two more boats were + secured bottom up upon a gallows aft, so she seemed to be well supplied in + that direction. Mistah Jones, finding I did not presume upon his + condescension, gradually unbent and furnished me with many interesting + facts about the officers. Captain Slocum, he said, was "de debbil hisself, + so jess yew keeps yer lamps trim' fer him, sonny, taint helthy ter rile + him." The first officer, or the mate as he is always called PAR + EXCELLENCE, was an older man than the captain, but a good seaman, a good + whaleman, and a gentleman. Which combination I found to be a fact, + although hard to believe possible at the time. The second mate was a + Portuguese about forty years of age, with a face like one of Vandyke's + cavaliers, but as I now learned, a perfect fiend when angered. He also was + a first-class whaleman, but an indifferent seaman. The third mate was + nothing much but bad temper—not much sailor, nor much whaler, + generally in hot water with the skipper, who hated him because he was an + "owner's man." "An de fourf mate," wound up the narrator, straightening + his huge bulk, "am de bes' man in de ship, and de bigges'. Dey aint no + whalemen in Noo Bedford caynt teach ME nuffin, en ef it comes ter + man-handlin'; w'y I jes' pick 'em two't a time 'n crack 'em togerrer like + so, see!" and he smote the palms of his great paws against each other, + while I nodded complete assent. + </p> + <p> + The weather being fine, with a steady N.E. wind blowing, so that the sails + required no attention, work proceeded steadily all the morning. The oars + were sorted, examined for flaws, and placed in the boats; the whale-line, + manilla rope like yellow silk, 1 1/2 inch round, was brought on deck, + stretched and coiled down with the greatest care into tubs, holding, some + 200 fathoms, and others 100 fathoms each. New harpoons were fitted to + poles of rough but heavy wood, without any attempt at neatness, but every + attention to strength. The shape of these weapons was not, as is generally + thought, that of an arrow, but rather like an arrow with one huge barb, + the upper part of which curved out from the shaft. The whole of the barb + turned on a stout pivot of steel, but was kept in line with the shaft by a + tiny wooden peg which passed through barb and shaft, being then cut off + smoothly on both sides. The point of the harpoon had at one side a + wedge-shaped edge, ground to razor keenness, the other side was flat. The + shaft, about thirty inches long, was of the best malleable iron, so soft + that it would tie into a knot and straighten out again without fracture. + Three harpoons, or "irons" as they were always called, were placed in each + boat, fitted one above the other in the starboard bow, the first for use + being always one unused before, Opposite to them in the boat were fitted + three lances for the purpose of KILLING whales, the harpoons being only + the means by which the boat was attached to a fish, and quite useless to + inflict a fatal wound. These lances were slender spears of malleable iron + about four feet long, with oval or heart-shaped points of fine steel about + two inches broad, their edges kept keen as a surgeon's lancet. By means of + a socket at the other end they were attached to neat handles, or + "lance-poles," about as long again, the whole weapon being thus about + eight feet in length, and furnished with a light line, or "lance-warp," + for the purpose of drawing it back again when it had been darted at a + whale. + </p> + <p> + Each boat was fitted with a centre-board, or sliding keel, which was drawn + up, when not in use, into a case standing in the boat's middle, very much + in the way. But the American whalemen regard these clumsy contrivances as + indispensable, so there's an end on't. The other furniture of a boat + comprised five oars of varying lengths from sixteen to nine feet, one + great steering oar of nineteen feet, a mast and two sails of great area + for so small a craft, spritsail shape; two tubs of whale-line containing + together 1800 feet, a keg of drinking water, and another long narrow one + with a few biscuits, a lantern, candles and matches therein; a bucket and + "piggin" for baling, a small spade, a flag or "wheft," a shoulder bomb-gun + and ammunition, two knives and two small axes. A rudder hung outside by + the stern. + </p> + <p> + With all this gear, although snugly stowed, a boat looked so loaded that I + could not help wondering how six men would be able to work in her; but + like most "deep-water" sailors, I knew very little about boating. I was + going to learn. + </p> + <p> + All this work and bustle of preparation was so rapidly carried on, and so + interesting, that before supper-time everything was in readiness to + commence operations, the time having gone so swiftly that I could hardly + believe the bell when it sounded four times, six o'clock. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER III. FISHING BEGINS + </h2> + <p> + During all the bustle of warlike preparation that had been going on, the + greenhorns had not suffered from inattention on the part of those + appointed to look after them. Happily for them, the wind blew steadily, + and the weather, thanks to the balmy influence of the Gulf Stream, was + quite mild and genial. The ship was undoubtedly lively, as all good + sea-boats are, but her motions were by no means so detestable to a + sea-sick man as those of a driving steamer. So, in spite of their + treatment, perhaps because of it, some of the poor fellows were beginning + to take hold of things "man-fashion," although of course sea legs they had + none, their getting about being indeed a pilgrimage of pain. Some of them + were beginning to try the dreadful "grub" (I cannot libel "food" by using + it in such a connection), thereby showing that their interest in life, + even such a life as was now before them, was returning. They had all been + allotted places in the various boats, intermixed with the seasoned + Portuguese in such a way that the officer and harpooner in charge would + not be dependant upon them entirely in case of a sudden emergency. Every + endeavour was undoubtedly made to instruct them in their duties, albeit + the teachers were all too apt to beat their information in with anything + that came to hand, and persuasion found no place in their methods. + </p> + <p> + The reports I had always heard of the laziness prevailing on board + whale-ships were now abundantly falsified. From dawn to dark work went on + without cessation. Everything was rubbed and scrubbed and scoured until no + speck or soil could be found; indeed, no gentleman's yacht or man-of-war + is kept more spotlessly clean than was the CACHALOT. + </p> + <p> + A regular and severe routine of labour was kept up; and, what was most + galling to me, instead of a regular four hours' watch on and off, night + and day, all hands were kept on deck the whole day long, doing quite + unnecessary tasks, apparently with the object of preventing too much + leisure and consequent brooding over their unhappy lot. One result of this + continual drive and tear was that all these landsmen became rapidly imbued + with the virtues of cleanliness, which was extended to the den in which we + lived, or I verily believe sickness would have soon thinned us out. + </p> + <p> + On the fourth day after leaving port we were all busy as usual except the + four men in the "crow's-nests," when a sudden cry of "Porps! porps!" + brought everything to a standstill. A large school of porpoises had just + joined us, in their usual clownish fashion, rolling and tumbling around + the bows as the old barky wallowed along, surrounded by a wide ellipse of + snowy foam. All work was instantly suspended, and active preparations made + for securing a few of these frolicsome fellows. A "block," or pulley, was + hung out at the bowsprit end, a whale-line passed through it and "bent" + (fastened) on to a harpoon. Another line with a running "bowline," or + slip-noose, was also passed out to the bowsprit end, being held there by + one man in readiness. Then one of the harpooners ran out along the + backropes, which keep the jib-boom down, taking his stand beneath the + bowsprit with the harpoon ready. Presently he raised his iron and followed + the track of a rising porpoise with its point until the creature broke + water. At the same instant the weapon left his grasp, apparently without + any force behind it; but we on deck, holding the line, soon found that our + excited hauling lifted a big vibrating body clean out of the smother + beneath. "'Vast hauling!" shouted the mate, while as the porpoise hung + dangling, the harpooner slipped the ready bowline over his body, gently + closing its grip round the "small" by the broad tail. Then we hauled on + the noose-line, slacking away the harpoon, and in a minute had our prize + on deck. He was dragged away at once and the operation repeated. Again and + again we hauled them in, until the fore part of the deck was alive with + the kicking, writhing sea-pigs, at least twenty of them. I had seen an + occasional porpoise caught at sea before, but never more than one at a + time. Here, however, was a wholesale catch. At last one of the harpooned + ones plunged so furiously while being hauled up that he literally tore + himself off the iron, falling, streaming with blood, back into the sea. + </p> + <p> + Away went all the school after him, tearing at him with their long + well-toothed jaws, some of them leaping high in the air in their eagerness + to get their due share of the cannibal feast. Our fishing was over for + that time. Meanwhile one of the harpooners had brought out a number of + knives, with which all hands were soon busy skinning the blubber from the + bodies. Porpoises have no skin, that is hide, the blubber or coating of + lard which encases them being covered by a black substance as thin as + tissue paper. The porpoise hide of the boot maker is really leather, made + from the skin of the BELUGA, or "white whale," which is found only in the + far north. The cover was removed from the "tryworks" amidships, revealing + two gigantic pots set in a frame of brickwork side by side, capable of + holding 200 gallons each. Such a cooking apparatus as might have graced a + Brobdingnagian kitchen. Beneath the pots was the very simplest of + furnaces, hardly as elaborate as the familiar copper-hole sacred to + washing day. Square funnels of sheet-iron were loosely fitted to the + flues, more as a protection against the oil boiling over into the fire + than to carry away the smoke, of which from the peculiar nature of the + fuel there was very little. At one side of the try-works was a large + wooden vessel, or "hopper," to contain the raw blubber; at the other, a + copper cistern or cooler of about 300 gallons capacity, into which the + prepared oil was baled to cool off, preliminary to its being poured into + the casks. Beneath the furnaces was a space as large as the whole area of + the try-works, about a foot deep, which, when the fires were lighted, was + filled with water to prevent the deck from burning. + </p> + <p> + It may be imagined that the blubber from our twenty porpoises made but a + poor show in one of the pots; nevertheless, we got a barrel of very + excellent oil from them. The fires were fed with "scrap," or pieces of + blubber from which the oil had been boiled, some of which had been + reserved from the previous voyage. They burnt with a fierce and steady + blaze, leaving but a trace of ash. I was then informed by one of the + harpooners that no other fuel was ever used for boiling blubber at any + time, there being always amply sufficient for the purpose. + </p> + <p> + The most interesting part of the whole business, though, to us poor + half-starved wretches, was the plentiful supply of fresh meat. Porpoise + beef is, when decently cooked, fairly good eating to a landsman; judge, + then, what it must have been to us. Of course the tit-bits, such as the + liver, kidneys, brains, etc., could not possibly fall to our lot; but we + did not complain, we were too thankful to get something eatable, and + enough of it. Moreover, although few sailors in English ships know it, + porpoise beef improves vastly by keeping, getting tenderer every day the + longer it hangs, until at last it becomes as tasty a viand as one could + wish to dine upon. It was a good job for us that this was the case, for + while the porpoises lasted the "harness casks," or salt beef receptacles, + were kept locked; so if any man had felt unable to eat porpoise—well, + there was no compulsion, he could go hungry. + </p> + <p> + We were now in the haunts of the Sperm Whale, or "Cachalot," a brilliant + look-out being continually kept for any signs of their appearing. One + officer and a foremast hand were continually on watch during the day in + the main crow's-nest, one harpooner and a seaman in the fore one. A bounty + of ten pounds of tobacco was offered to whoever should first report a + whale, should it be secured, consequently there were no sleepy eyes up + there. Of course none of those who were inexperienced stood much chance + against the eagle-eyed Portuguese; but all tried their best, in the hope + of perhaps winning some little favour from their hard taskmasters. Every + evening at sunset it was "all hands shorten sail," the constant drill + rapidly teaching even these clumsy landsmen how to find their way aloft, + and do something else besides hold on to anything like grim death when + they got there. + </p> + <p> + At last, one beautiful day, the boats were lowered and manned, and away + went the greenies on their first practical lesson in the business of the + voyage. As before noticed, there were two greenies in each boat, they + being so arranged that whenever one of them "caught a crab," which of + course was about every other stroke, his failure made little difference to + the boat's progress. They learned very fast under the terrible + imprecations and storm of blows from the iron-fisted and iron-hearted + officers, so that before the day was out the skipper was satisfied of our + ability to deal with a "fish" should he be lucky enough to "raise" one. I + was, in virtue of my experience, placed at the after-oar in the mate's + boat, where it was my duty to attend to the "main sheet" when the sail was + set, where also I had the benefit of the lightest oar except the small one + used by the harpooner in the bow. + </p> + <p> + The very next day after our first exhaustive boat drill, a school of + "Black Fish" was reported from aloft, with great glee the officers + prepared for what they considered a rattling day's fun. + </p> + <p> + The Black Fish (PHOCAENA SP.) is a small toothed whale, not at all unlike + a miniature cachalot, except that its head is rounded at the front, while + its jaw is not long and straight, but bowed. It is as frolicsome as the + porpoise, gambolling about in schools of from twenty to fifty or more, as + if really delighted to be alive. Its average size is from ten to twenty + feet long, and seven or eight feet in girth, weight from one to three + tons. Blubber about three inches thick, while the head is almost all oil, + so that a good rich specimen will make between one and two barrels of oil + of medium quality. + </p> + <p> + The school we were now in sight of was of middling size and about average + weight of individuals, and the officers esteemed it a fortunate + circumstance that we should happen across them as a sort of preliminary to + our tackling the monarchs of the deep. + </p> + <p> + All the new harpoons were unshipped from the boats, and a couple of extra + "second" irons, as those that have been used are called, were put into + each boat for use if wanted. The sails were also left on board. We lowered + and left the ship, pulling right towards the school, the noise they were + making in their fun effectually preventing them from hearing our approach. + It is etiquette to allow the mate's boat first place, unless his crew is + so weak as to be unable to hold their own; but as the mate always has + first pick of the men this seldom happens. So, as usual, we were first, + and soon I heard the order given, "Stand up, Louey, and let 'em have it!" + Sure enough, here we were right among them. Louis let drive, "fastening" a + whopper about twenty feet long. The injured animal plunged madly forward, + accompanied by his fellows, while Louis calmly bent another iron to a + "short warp," or piece of whale-line, the loose end of which he made a + bowline with around the main line which was fast to the "fish." Then he + fastened another "fish," and the queer sight was seen of these two + monsters each trying to flee in opposite directions, while the second one + ranged about alarmingly as his "bridle" ran along the main line. Another + one was secured in the same way, then the game was indeed great. The + school had by this time taken the alarm and cleared out, but the other + boats were all fast to fish, so that didn't matter. Now, at the rate our + "game" were going it would evidently be a long while before they died, + although, being so much smaller than a whale proper, a harpoon will often + kill them at a stroke. Yet they were now so tangled or "snarled erp," as + the mate said, that it was no easy matter to lance them without great + danger of cutting the line. However, we hauled up as close to them as we + dared, and the harpooner got a good blow in, which gave the biggest of the + three "Jesse," as he said, though why "Jesse" was a stumper. Anyhow, it + killed him promptly, while almost directly after another one saved further + trouble by passing in his own checks. But he sank at the same time, + drawing the first one down with him, so that we were in considerable + danger of having to cut them adrift or be swamped. The "wheft" was waved + thrice as an urgent signal to the ship to come to our assistance with all + speed, but in the meantime our interest lay in the surviving Black Fish + keeping alive. Should HE die, and, as was most probable, sink, we should + certainly have to cut and lose the lot, tools included. + </p> + <p> + We waited in grim silence while the ship came up, so slowly, apparently, + that she hardly seemed to move, but really at a good pace of about four + knots an hour, which for her was not at all bad. She got alongside of us + at last, and we passed up the bight of our line, our fish all safe, very + much pleased with ourselves, especially when we found that the other boats + had only five between the three of them. + </p> + <p> + The fish secured to the ship, all the boats were hoisted except one, which + remained alongside to sling the bodies. During our absence the + ship-keepers had been busy rigging one of the cutting falls, an immense + fourfold tackle from the main lowermast-head, of four-inch rope through + great double blocks, large as those used at dockyards for lifting ships' + masts and boilers. Chain-slings were passed around the carcases, which + gripped the animal at the "small," being prevented from slipping off by + the broad spread of the tail. The end of the "fall," or tackle-rope, was + then taken to the windlass, and we hove away cheerily, lifting the + monsters right on deck. A mountainous pile they made. A short spell was + allowed, when the whole eight were on board, for dinner; then all hands + turned to again to "flench" the blubber, and prepare for trying-out. This + was a heavy job, keeping all hands busy until it was quite dark, the + latter part of the work being carried on by the light of a "cresset," the + flames of which were fed with "scrap," which blazed brilliantly, throwing + a big glare over all the ship. The last of the carcases was launched + overboard by about eight o'clock that evening, but not before some vast + junks of beef had been cut off and hung up in the rigging for our food + supply. + </p> + <p> + The try-works were started again, "trying-out" going on busily all night, + watch and watch taking their turn at keeping the pots supplied with minced + blubber. The work was heavy, while the energetic way in which it was + carried on made us all glad to take what rest was allowed us, which was + scanty enough, as usual. + </p> + <p> + By nightfall the next day the ship had resumed her normal appearance, and + we were a tun and a quarter of oil to the good. Black Fish oil is of + medium quality, but I learned that, according to the rule of "roguery in + all trades," it was the custom to mix quantities such as we had just + obtained with better class whale-oil, and thus get a much higher price + than it was really worth. + </p> + <p> + Up till this time we had no sort of an idea as to where our first + objective might be, but from scraps of conversation I had overheard among + the harpooners, I gathered that we were making for the Cape Verde Islands + or the Acores, in the vicinity of which a good number of moderate-sized + sperm whales are often to be found. In fact, these islands have long been + a nursery for whale-fishers, because the cachalot loves their steep-to + shores, and the hardy natives, whenever and wherever they can muster a + boat and a little gear, are always ready to sally forth and attack the + unwary whale that ventures within their ken. Consequently more than half + of the total crews of the American whaling fleet are composed of these + islanders. Many of them have risen to the position of captain, and still + more are officers and harpooners; but though undoubtedly brave and + enterprising, they are cruel and treacherous, and in positions of + authority over men of Teutonic or Anglo-Saxon origin, are apt to treat + their subordinates with great cruelty. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IV. BAD WEATHER + </h2> + <p> + Nautical routine in its essential details is much the same in all ships, + whether naval, merchant, or whaling vessels. But while in the ordinary + merchantman there are decidedly "no more cats than can catch mice," + hardly, indeed, sufficient for all the mousing that should be done, in + men-of-war and whaleships the number of hands carried, being far more than + are wanted for everyday work, must needs be kept at unnecessary duties in + order that they may not grow lazy and discontented. + </p> + <p> + For instance, in the CACHALOT we carried a crew of thirty-seven all told, + of which twenty-four were men before the mast, or common seamen, our + tonnage being under 400 tons. Many a splendid clipper-ship carrying an + enormous spread of canvas on four masts, and not overloaded with 2500 tons + of cargo on board, carries twenty-eight or thirty all told, or even less + than that. As far as we were concerned, the result of this was that our + landsmen got so thoroughly drilled, that within a week of leaving port + they hardly knew themselves for the clumsy clodhoppers they at first + appeared to be. + </p> + <p> + We had now been eight days out, and in our leisurely way were making fair + progress across the Atlantic, having had nothing, so far, but steady + breezes and fine weather. As it was late autumn the first week in October—I + rather wondered at this, for even in my brief experience I had learned to + dread a "fall" voyage across the "Western Ocean." + </p> + <p> + Gradually the face of the sky changed, and the feel of the air, from balmy + and genial, became raw and cheerless. The little wave tops broke short off + and blew backwards, apparently against the wind, while the old vessel had + an uneasy, unnatural motion, caused by a long, new swell rolling athwart + the existing set of the sea. Then the wind became fitful and changeable, + backing half round the compass, and veering forward again as much in an + hour, until at last in one tremendous squall it settled in the N.W. for a + business-like blow, Unlike the hurried merchantman who must needs "hang + on" till the last minute, only shortening the sail when absolutely + compelled to do so, and at the first sign of the gales relenting, piling + it on again, we were all snug long before the storm burst upon us, and now + rode comfortably under the tiniest of storm staysails. + </p> + <p> + We were evidently in for a fair specimen of Western Ocean weather, but the + clumsy-looking, old-fashioned CACHALOT made no more fuss over it than one + of the long-winged sea-birds that floated around, intent only upon + snapping up any stray scraps that might escape from us. Higher rose the + wind, heavier rolled the sea, yet never a drop of water did we ship, nor + did anything about the deck betoken what a heavy gale was blowing. During + the worst of the weather, and just after the wind had shifted back into + the N.E., making an uglier cross sea than ever get up, along comes an + immense four-masted iron ship homeward bound. She was staggering under a + veritable mountain of canvas, fairly burying her bows in the foam at every + forward drive, and actually wetting the clews of the upper topsails in the + smothering masses of spray, that every few minutes almost hid her hull + from sight. + </p> + <p> + It was a splendid picture; but—for the time—I felt glad I was + not on board of her. In a very few minutes she was out of our ken, + followed by the admiration of all. Then came, from the other direction, a + huge steamship, taking no more notice of the gale than as if it were calm. + Straight through the sea she rushed, dividing the mighty rollers to the + heart, and often bestriding three seas at once, the centre one spreading + its many tons of foaming water fore and aft, so that from every orifice + spouted the seething brine. Compared with these greyhounds of the wave, we + resembled nothing so much as some old lightship bobbing serenely around, + as if part and parcel of the mid-Atlantic. + </p> + <p> + Our greenies were getting so well seasoned by this time that even this + rough weather did not knock any of them over, and from that time forward + they had no more trouble from sea-sickness. + </p> + <p> + The gale gradually blew itself out, leaving behind only a long and very + heavy swell to denote the deep-reaching disturbance that the ocean had + endured. And now we were within the range of the Sargasso Weed, that + mysterious FUCUS that makes the ocean look. like some vast hayfield, and + keeps the sea from rising, no matter how high the wind. It fell a dead + calm, and the harpooners amused themselves by dredging up great masses of + the weed, and turning out the many strange creatures abiding therein. What + a world of wonderful life the weed is, to be sure! In it the flying fish + spawn and the tiny cuttle-fish breed, both of them preparing bounteous + provision for the larger denizens of the deep that have no other food. + Myriads of tiny crabs and innumerable specimens of less-known shell-fish, + small fish of species as yet unclassified in any work on natural history, + with jelly-fish of every conceivable and inconceivable shape, form part of + this great and populous country in the sea. At one haul there was brought + on board a mass of flying-fish spawn, about ten pounds in weight, looking + like nothing so much as a pile of ripe white currants, and clinging + together in a very similar manner. + </p> + <p> + Such masses of ova I had often seen cast up among the outlying rocks on + the shores of the Caribbean Sea, when as a shipwrecked lad I wandered idly + about unburying turtle eggs from their snug beds in the warm sand, and + chasing the many-hued coral fish from one hiding-place to another. + </p> + <p> + While loitering in these smooth waters, waiting for the laggard wind, up + came a shoal of dolphin, ready as at all times to attach themselves for + awhile to the ship. Nothing is more singular than the manner in which + deep-sea fish will accompany a vessel that is not going too fast—sometimes + for days at a time. Most convenient too, and providing hungry Jack with + many a fresh mess he would otherwise have missed. Of all these friendly + fish, none is better known than the "dolphin," as from long usage sailors + persist in calling them, and will doubtless do so until the end of the + chapter. For the true dolphin (DELPHINIDAE) is not a fish at all, but a + mammal a warm-blooded creature that suckles its young, and in its most + familiar form is known to most people as the porpoise. The sailor's + "dolphin," on the other hand, is a veritable fish, with vertical tail fin + instead of the horizontal one which distinguishes all the whale family, + scales and gills. + </p> + <p> + It is well known to literature, under its sea-name, for its marvellous + brilliancy of colour, and there are few objects more dazzling than a + dolphin leaping out of a calm sea into the sunshine. The beauty of a dying + dolphin, however, though sanctioned by many generations of writers, is a + delusion, all the glory of the fish departing as soon as he is withdrawn + from his native element. + </p> + <p> + But this habit of digression grows upon one, and I must do my best to + check it, or I shall never get through my task. + </p> + <p> + To resume then: when this school of dolphin (I can't for the life of me + call them CORIPHAENA HIPPURIS) came alongside, a rush was made for the + "granes"—a sort of five-pronged trident, if I may be allowed a baby + bull. It was universally agreed among the fishermen that trying a hook and + line was only waste of time and provocative of profanity! since every + sailor knows that all the deep-water big fish require a living or + apparently living bait. The fish, however, sheered off, and would not be + tempted within reach of that deadly fork by any lure. Then did I cover + myself with glory. For he who can fish cleverly and luckily may be sure of + fairly good times in a whaler, although he may be no great things at any + other work. I had a line of my own, and begging one of the small fish that + had been hauled up in the Gulf weed, I got permission to go aft and fish + over the taffrail. The little fish was carefully secured on the hook, the + point of which just protruded near his tail. Then I lowered him into the + calm blue waters beneath, and paid out line very gently, until my bait was + a silvery spot about a hundred feet astern. Only a very short time, and my + hopes rose as I saw one bright gleam after another glide past the keel, + heading aft. Then came a gentle drawing at the line, which I suffered to + slip slowly through my fingers until I judged it time to try whether I was + right or wrong, A long hard pull, and my heart beat fast as I felt the + thrill along the line that fishermen love. None of your high art here, but + haul in hand over hand, the line being strong enough to land a 250 pound + fish. Up he came, the beauty, all silver and scarlet and blue, five feet + long if an inch, and weighing 35 pounds. Well, such a lot of astonished + men I never saw. They could hardly believe their eyes. That such a daring + innovation should be successful was hardly to be believed, even with the + vigorous evidence before them. Even grim Captain Slocum came to look and + turned upon me as I thought a less lowering brow than usual, while Mr. + Count, the mate, fairly chuckled again at the thought of how the little + Britisher had wiped the eyes of these veteran fishermen. The captive was + cut open, and two recent flying-fish found in his maw, which were utilized + for new bait, with the result that there was a cheerful noise of hissing + and spluttering in the galley soon after, and a mess of fish for all + hands. + </p> + <p> + Shortly afterwards a fresh breeze sprang up, which proved to be the + beginning of the N.E. trades, and fairly guaranteed us against any very + bad weather for some time to come. + </p> + <p> + Somehow or other it had leaked out that we were to cruise the Cape Verd + Islands for a spell before working south, and the knowledge seemed to have + quite an enlivening effect upon our Portuguese shipmates. + </p> + <p> + Most of them belonged there, and although there was but the faintest + prospect of their getting ashore upon any pretext whatever, the + possibility of seeing their island homes again seemed to quite transform + them. Hitherto they had been very moody and exclusive, never associating + with us on the white side, or attempting to be at all familiar. A mutual + atmosphere of suspicion, in fact, seemed to pervade our quarters, making + things already uncomfortable enough, still more so. Now, however, they + fraternized with us, and in a variety of uncouth ways made havoc of the + English tongue, as they tried to impress us with the beauty, fertility and + general incomparability of their beloved Cape Verds. Of the eleven white + men besides myself in the forecastle, there were a middle-aged German + baker, who had bolted from Buffalo; two Hungarians, who looked like + noblemen disguised—in dirt; two slab-sided Yankees of about 22 from + farms in Vermont; a drayman from New York; a French Canadian from the + neighbourhood of Quebec; two Italians from Genoa; and two nondescripts + that I never found out the origin of. Imagine, then, the babel of sound, + and think—but no, it is impossible to think, what sort of a jargon + was compounded of all these varying elements of language. + </p> + <p> + One fortunate thing, there was peace below. Indeed, the spirit seemed + completely taken out of all of them, and by some devilish ingenuity the + afterguard had been able to sow distrust between them all, while treating + them like dogs, so that the miseries of their life were never openly + discussed. My position among them gave me at times some uneasiness. Though + I tried to be helpful to all, and was full of sympathy for their + undeserved sufferings, I could not but feel that they would have been more + than human had they not envied me my immunity from the kicks and blows + they all shared so impartially. However, there was no help for it, so I + went on as cheerily as I could. + </p> + <p> + A peculiarity of all these vessels, as I afterwards learned, was that no + stated allowance of anything was made. Even the water was not served out + to us, but was kept in a great scuttle-butt by the cabin door, to which + every one who needed a drink had to go, and from which none might be + carried away. No water was allowed for washing except from the sea; and + every one knows, or should know, that neither flesh nor clothes can be + cleansed with that. But a cask with a perforated top was lashed by the + bowsprit and kept filled with urine, which I was solemnly assured by + Goliath was the finest dirt-extractor in the world for clothes. The + officers did not avail themselves of its virtues though, but were content + with lye, which was furnished in plenty by the ashes from the galley fire, + where nothing but wood was used as fuel. Of course when rain fell we might + have a good wash, if it was night and no other work was toward; but we + were not allowed to store any for washing purposes. Another curious but + absolutely necessary custom prevailed in consequence of the short commons + under which we lived. When the portion of meat was brought down in its + wooden kid, or tub, at dinner-time, it was duly divided as fairly as + possible into as many parts as there were mouths. Then one man turned his + back on the carver, who holding up each portion, called out, "Who's this + for?" Whatever name was mentioned by the arbitrator, that man owning it + received the piece, and had perforce to be satisfied therewith. Thus + justice was done to all in the only way possible, and without any friction + whatever. + </p> + <p> + As some of us were without clothes except what we stood upright in, when + we joined, the "slop chest" was opened, and every applicant received from + the steward what Captain Slocum thought fit to let him have, being debited + with the cost against such wages as he might afterwards earn. The clothes + were certainly of fairly good quality, if the price was high, and exactly + suited to our requirements. Soap, matches, and tobacco were likewise + supplied on the same terms, but at higher prices than I had ever heard of + before for these necessaries. After much careful inquiry I ascertained + what, in the event of a successful voyage, we were likely to earn. Each of + us were on the two hundredth "lay" or share at $200 per tun, which meant + that for every two hundred barrels of oil taken on board, we were entitled + to one, which we must sell to the ship at the rate of L40 per tun or L4 + per barrel. Truly a magnificent outlook for young men bound to such a + business for three or four years. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER V. ACTUAL WARFARE. OUR FIRST WHALE + </h2> + <p> + Simultaneous ideas occurring to several people, or thought transference, + whatever one likes to call the phenomenon is too frequent an occurrence in + most of our experience to occasion much surprise. Yet on the occasion to + which I am about to refer, the matter was so very marked that few of us + who took part in the day's proceedings are ever likely to forget it. + </p> + <p> + We were all gathered about the fo'lk'sle scuttle one evening, a few days + after the gale referred to in the previous chapter, and the question of + whale-fishing came up for discussion. Until that time, strange as it may + seem, no word of this, the central idea of all our minds, had been mooted. + Every man seemed to shun the subject, although we were in daily + expectation of being called upon to take an active part in whale-fighting. + Once the ice was broken, nearly all had something to say about it, and + very nearly as many addle-headed opinions were ventilated as at a Colney + Hatch debating society. For we none of us KNEW anything about it. I was + appealed to continually to support this or that theory, but as far as + whaling went I could only, like the rest of them, draw upon my imagination + for details. How did a whale act, what were the first steps taken, what + chance was there of being saved if your boat got smashed, and so on unto + infinity. At last, getting very tired of this "Portugee Parliament" of all + talkers and no listeners, I went aft to get a drink of water before + turning in. The harpooners and other petty officers were grouped in the + waist, earnestly discussing the pros and cons of attack upon whales. As I + passed I heard the mate's harpooner say, "Feels like whale about. I bet a + plug (of tobacco) we raise sperm whale to-morrow." Nobody took his bet, + for it appeared that they were mostly of the same mind, and while I was + drinking I heard the officers in dignified conclave talking over the same + thing. It was Saturday evening, and while at home people were looking + forward to a day's respite from work and care, I felt that the coming day, + though never taken much notice of on board, was big with the probabilities + of strife such as I at least had at present no idea of. So firmly was I + possessed by the prevailing feeling. + </p> + <p> + The night was very quiet. A gentle breeze was blowing, and the sky was of + the usual "Trade" character, that is, a dome of dark blue fringed at the + horizon with peaceful cumulus clouds, almost motionless. I turned in at + four a.m. from the middle watch and, as usual, slept like a babe. Suddenly + I started wide awake, a long mournful sound sending a thrill to my very + heart. As I listened breathlessly other sounds of the same character but + in different tones joined in, human voices monotonously intoning in long + drawn-out expirations the single word "bl-o-o-o-o-w." Then came a + hurricane of noise overhead, and adjurations in no gentle language to the + sleepers to "tumble up lively there, no skulking, sperm whales." At last, + then, fulfilling all the presentiments of yesterday, the long dreaded + moment had arrived. Happily there was no time for hesitation, in less than + two minutes we were all on deck, and hurrying to our respective boats. + There was no flurry or confusion, and except that orders were given more + quietly than usual, with a manifest air of suppressed excitement, there + was nothing to show that we were not going for an ordinary course of boat + drill. The skipper was in the main crow's-nest with his binoculars + presently he shouted, "Naow then, Mr. Count, lower away soon's y'like. + Small pod o'cows, an' one'r two bulls layin' off to west'ard of 'em." Down + went the boats into the water quietly enough, we all scrambled in and + shoved off. A stroke or two of the oars were given to get clear of the + ship, and one another, then oars were shipped and up went the sails. As I + took my allotted place at the main-sheet, and the beautiful craft started + off like some big bird, Mr. Count leant forward, saying impressively to + me, "Y'r a smart youngster, an' I've kinder took t'yer; but don't ye look + ahead an' get gallied, 'r I'll knock ye stiff wi' th' tiller; y'hear me? + N' don't ye dare to make thet sheet fast, 'r ye'll die so sudden y' won't + know whar y'r hurted." I said as cheerfully as I could, "All right, sir," + trying to look unconcerned, telling myself not to be a coward, and all + sorts of things; but the cold truth is that I was scared almost to death + because I didn't know what was coming. However, I did the best thing under + the circumstances, obeyed orders and looked steadily astern, or up into + the bronzed impassive face of my chief, who towered above me, scanning + with eagle eyes the sea ahead. The other boats were coming flying along + behind us, spreading wider apart as they came, while in the bows of each + stood the harpooner with his right hand on his first iron, which lay + ready, pointing over the bow in a raised fork of wood called the "crutch." + </p> + <p> + All of a sudden, at a motion of the chief's hand, the peak of our mainsail + was dropped, and the boat swung up into the wind, laying "hove to," almost + stationary. The centre-board was lowered to stop her drifting to leeward, + although I cannot say it made much difference that ever I saw. NOW what's + the matter, I thought, when to my amazement the chief addressing me said, + "Wonder why we've hauled up, don't ye?" "Yes, sir, I do," said I. "Wall," + said he, "the fish hev sounded, an' 'ef we run over 'em, we've seen the + last ov'em. So we wait awhile till they rise agin, 'n then we'll prob'ly + git thar' 'r thareabonts before they sound agin." With this explanation I + had to be content, although if it be no clearer to my readers than it then + was to me, I shall have to explain myself more fully later on. Silently we + lay, rocking lazily upon the gentle swell, no other word being spoken by + any one. At last Louis, the harpooner, gently breathed "blo-o-o-w;" and + there, sure enough, not half a mile away on the lee beam, was a little + bushy cloud of steam apparently rising from the sea. At almost the same + time as we kept away all the other boats did likewise, and just then, + catching sight of the ship, the reason for this apparently concerted + action was explained. At the main-mast head of the ship was a square blue + flag, and the ensign at the peak was being dipped. These were signals well + understood and promptly acted upon by those in charge of the boats, who + were thus guided from a point of view at least one hundred feet above the + sea. + </p> + <p> + "Stand up, Louey," the mate murmured softly. I only just stopped myself in + time from turning my head to see why the order was given. Suddenly there + was a bump, at the same moment the mate yelled, "Give't to him, Louey, + give't to him!" and to me, "Haul that main sheet, naow haul, why don't + ye?" I hauled it flat aft, and the boat shot up into the wind, rubbing + sides as she did so with what to my troubled sight seemed an enormous mass + of black india-rubber floating. As we CRAWLED up into the wind, the whale + went into convulsions befitting his size and energy. He raised a gigantic + tail on high, threshing the water with deafening blows, rolling at the + same time from side to side until the surrounding sea was white with + froth. I felt in an agony lest we should be crushed under one of those + fearful strokes, for Mr. Count appeared to be oblivious of possible + danger, although we seemed to be now drifting back on to the writhing + leviathan. In the agitated condition of the sea, it was a task of no + ordinary difficulty to unship the tall mast, which was of course the first + thing to be done. After a desperate struggle, and a narrow escape from + falling overboard of one of the men, we got the lone "stick," with the + sail bundled around it, down and "fleeted" aft, where it was secured by + the simple means of sticking the "heel" under the after thwart, two-thirds + of the mast extending out over the stern. Meanwhile, we had certainly been + in a position of the greatest danger, our immunity from damage being + unquestionably due to anything but precaution taken to avoid it. + </p> + <p> + By the time the oars were handled, and the mate had exchanged places with + the harpooner, our friend the enemy had "sounded," that is, he had gone + below for a change of scene, marvelling no doubt what strange thing had + befallen him. Agreeably to the accounts which I, like most boys, had read + of the whale fishery, I looked for the rushing of the line round the + logger-head (a stout wooden post built into the boat aft), to raise a + cloud of smoke with occasional bursts of flame; so as it began to slowly + surge round the post, I timidly asked the harpooner whether I should throw + any water on it. "Wot for?" growled he, as he took a couple more turns + with it. Not knowing "what for," and hardly liking to quote my authorities + here, I said no more, but waited events. "Hold him up, Louey, bold him up, + cain't ye?" shouted the mate, and to my horror, down went the nose of the + boat almost under water, while at the mate's order everybody scrambled aft + into the elevated stern sheets. + </p> + <p> + The line sang quite a tune as it was grudgingly allowed to surge round the + loggerhead, filling one with admiration at the strength shown by such a + small rope. This sort of thing went on for about twenty minutes, in which + time we quite emptied the large tub and began on the small one. As there + was nothing whatever for us to do while this was going on, I had ample + leisure for observing the little game that was being played about a + quarter of a mile away. Mr. Cruce, the second mate, had got a whale and + was doing his best to kill it; but he was severely handicapped by his + crew, or rather had been, for two of them were now temporarily incapable + of either good or harm. They had gone quite "batchy" with fright, + requiring a not too gentle application of the tiller to their heads in + order to keep them quiet. The remedy, if rough, was effectual, for "the + subsequent proceedings interested them no more." Consequently his + manoeuvres were not so well or rapidly executed as he, doubtless, could + have wished, although his energy in lancing that whale was something to + admire and remember. Hatless, his shirt tail out of the waist of his + trousers streaming behind him like a banner, he lunged and thrust at the + whale alongside of him, as if possessed of a destroying devil, while his + half articulate yells of rage and blasphemy were audible even to us. + </p> + <p> + Suddenly our boat fell backward from her "slantindicular" position with a + jerk, and the mate immediately shouted, "Haul line, there! look lively, + now, you—so on, etcetera, etcetera" (he seemed to invent new + epithets on every occasion). The line came in hand over hand, and was + coiled in a wide heap in the stern sheets, for silky as it was, it could + not be expected in its wet state to lie very close. As it came flying in + the mate kept a close gaze upon the water immediately beneath us, + apparently for the first glimpse of our antagonist. When the whale broke + water, however, he was some distance off, and apparently as quiet as a + lamb. Now, had Mr. Count been a prudent or less ambitious man, our task + would doubtless have been an easy one, or comparatively so; but, being a + little over-grasping, he got us all into serious trouble. We were hauling + up to our whale in order to lance it, and the mate was standing, lance in + hand, only waiting to get near enough, when up comes a large whale right + alongside of our boat, so close, indeed, that I might have poked my finger + in his little eye, if I had chosen. The sight of that whale at liberty, + and calmly taking stock of us like that, was too much for the mate. He + lifted his lance and hurled it at the visitor, in whose broad flank it + sank, like a knife into butter, right up to the pole-hitches. The + recipient disappeared like a flash, but before one had time to think, + there was an awful crash beneath us, and the mate shot up into the air + like a bomb from a mortar. He came down in a sitting posture on the + mast-thwart; but as he fell, the whole framework of the boat collapsed + like a derelict umbrella. Louis quietly chopped the line and severed our + connection with the other whale, while in accordance with our instructions + we drew each man his oar across the boat and lashed it firmly down with a + piece of line spliced to each thwart for the purpose. This simple + operation took but a minute, but before it was completed we were all up to + our necks in the sea. Still in the boat, it is true, and therefore not in + such danger of drowning as if we were quite adrift; but, considering that + the boat was reduced to a mere bundle of loose planks, I, at any rate, was + none too comfortable. Now, had he known it, was the whale's golden + opportunity; but he, poor wretch, had had quite enough of our company, and + cleared off without any delay, wondering, no doubt, what fortunate + accident had rid him of our very unpleasant attentions. + </p> + <p> + I was assured that we were all as safe as if we were on board the ship, to + which I answered nothing; but, like Jack's parrot, I did some powerful + thinking. Every little wave that came along swept clean over our heads, + sometimes coming so suddenly as to cut a breath in half. If the wind + should increase—but no—I wouldn't face the possibility of such + a disagreeable thing. I was cool enough now in a double sense, for + although we were in the tropics, we soon got thoroughly chilled. + </p> + <p> + By the position of the sun it must have been between ten a.m. and noon, + and we, of the crew, had eaten nothing since the previous day at supper, + when, as usual, the meal was very light. Therefore, I suppose we felt the + chill sooner than the better-nourished mate and harpooner, who looked + rather scornfully at our blue faces and chattering teeth. + </p> + <p> + In spite of all assurances to the contrary, I have not the least doubt in + my own mind that a very little longer would have relieved us of ALL our + burdens finally. Because the heave of the sea had so loosened the + shattered planks upon which we stood that they were on the verge of + falling all asunder. Had they done so we must have drowned, for we were + cramped and stiff with cold and our constrained position. However, unknown + to us, a bright look-out upon our movements had been kept from the + crow's-nest the whole time. We should have been relieved long before, but + that the whale killed by the second mate was being secured, and another + boat, the fourth mate's, being picked up, having a hole in her bilge you + could put you head through. With all these hindrances, especially securing + the whale, we were fortunate to be rescued as soon as we were, since it is + well known that whales are of much higher commercial value than men. + </p> + <p> + However, help came at last, and we were hauled alongside. Long exposure + had weakened us to such an extent that it was necessary to hoist us on + board, especially the mate, whose "sudden stop," when he returned to us + after his little aerial excursion, had shaken his sturdy frame + considerably, a state of body which the subsequent soaking had by no means + improved. In my innocence I imagined that we should be commiserated for + our misfortunes by Captain Slocum, and certainly be relieved from further + duties until we were a little recovered from the rough treatment we had + just undergone. But I never made a greater mistake. The skipper cursed us + all (except the mate, whose sole fault the accident undoubtedly was) with + a fluency and vigour that was, to put it mildly, discouraging. Moreover, + we were informed that he "wouldn't have no adjective skulking;" we must + "turn to" and do something after wasting the ship's time and property in + such a blanked manner. There was a limit, however, to our obedience, so + although we could not move at all for awhile, his threats were not + proceeded with farther than theory. + </p> + <p> + A couple of slings were passed around the boat, by means of which she was + carefully hoisted on board, a mere dilapidated bundle of sticks and raffle + of gear. She was at once removed aft out of the way, the business of + cutting in the whale claiming precedence over everything else just then. + The preliminary proceedings consisted of rigging the "cutting stage." This + was composed of two stout planks a foot wide and ten feet long, the inner + ends of which were suspended by strong ropes over the ship's side about + four feet from the water, while the outer extremities were upheld by + tackles from the main rigging, and a small crane abreast the try-works. + </p> + <p> + These planks were about thirty feet apart, their two outer ends being + connected by a massive plank which was securely bolted to them. A handrail + about as high as a man's waist, supported by light iron stanchions, ran + the full length of this plank on the side nearest the ship, the whole + fabric forming an admirable standing-place from whence the officers might, + standing in comparative comfort, cut and carve at the great mass below to + their hearts' content. + </p> + <p> + So far the prize had been simply held alongside by the whale-line, which + at death had been "rove" through a hole cut in the solid gristle of the + tail; but now it became necessary to secure the carcase to the ship in + some more permanent fashion. Therefore, a massive chain like a small + ship's cable was brought forward, and in a very ingenious way, by means of + a tiny buoy and a hand-lead, passed round the body, one end brought + through a ring in the other, and hauled upon until it fitted tight round + the "small" or part of the whale next the broad spread of the tail. The + free end of the fluke-chain was then passed in through a mooring-pipe + forward, firmly secured to a massive bitt at the heel of the bowsprit (the + fluke-chain-bitt), and all was ready. + </p> + <p> + But the subsequent proceedings were sufficiently complicated to demand a + fresh chapter. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VI. "DIRTY WORK FOR CLEAN MONEY" + </h2> + <p> + If in the preceding chapter too much stress has been laid upon the + smashing of our own boat and consequent sufferings, while little or no + notice was taken of the kindred disaster to Mistah Jones' vessel, my + excuse must be that the experience "filled me right up to the chin," as + the mate concisely, if inelegantly, put it. Poor Goliath was indeed to be + pitied, for his well-known luck and capacity as a whaleman seemed on this + occasion to have quite deserted him. Not only had his boat been stove upon + first getting on to the whale, but he hadn't even had a run for his money. + It appeared that upon striking his whale, a small, lively cow, she had at + once "settled," allowing the boat to run over her; but just as they were + passing, she rose, gently enough, her pointed hump piercing the thin skin + of half-inch cedar as if it had been cardboard. She settled again + immediately, leaving a hole behind her a foot long by six inches wide, + which effectually put a stop to all further fishing operations on the part + of Goliath and his merry men for that day, at any rate. It was all so + quiet, and so tame and so stupid, no wonder Mistah Jones felt savage. When + Captain Slocum's fluent profanity flickered around him, including + vehemently all he might be supposed to have any respect for, he did not + even LOOK as if he would like to talk back; he only looked sick and tired + of being himself. + </p> + <p> + The third mate, again, was of a different category altogether. He had + distinguished himself by missing every opportunity of getting near a whale + while there was a "loose" one about, and then "saving" the crew of + Goliath's boat, who were really in no danger whatever. His iniquity was + too great to be dealt with by mere bad language. He crept about like a + homeless dog—much, I am afraid, to my secret glee, for I couldn't + help remembering his untiring cruelty to the green hands on first leaving + port. + </p> + <p> + In consequence of these little drawbacks we were not a very jovial crowd + forrard or aft. Not that hilarity was ever particularly noticeable among + us, but just now there was a very decided sense of wrong-doing over us + all, and a general fear that each of us was about to pay the penalty due + to some other delinquent. But fortunately there was work to be done. Oh, + blessed work! how many awkward situations you have extricated people from! + How many distracted brains have you soothed and restored, by your steady + irresistible pressure of duty to be done and brooking of no delay! + </p> + <p> + The first thing to be done was to cut the whale's head off. This + operation, involving the greatest amount of labour in the whole of the + cutting in, was taken in hand by the first and second mates, who, armed + with twelve-feet spades, took their station upon the stage, leaned over + the handrail to steady themselves, and plunged their weapons vigorously + down through the massive neck of the animal—if neck it could be said + to have—following a well-defined crease in the blubber. At the same + time the other officers passed a heavy chain sling around the long, narrow + lower jaw, hooking one of the big cutting tackles into it, the "fall" of + which was then taken to the windlass and hove tight, turning the whale on + her back. A deep cut was then made on both sides of the rising jaw, the + windlass was kept going, and gradually the whole of the throat was raised + high enough for a hole to be cut through its mass, into which the strap of + the second cutting tackle was inserted and secured by passing a huge + toggle of oak through its eye. The second tackle was then hove taut, and + the jaw, with a large piece of blubber attached, was cut off from the body + with a boarding-knife, a tool not unlike a cutlass blade set into a + three-foot-long wooden handle. + </p> + <p> + Upon being severed the whole piece swung easily inboard and was lowered on + deck. The fast tackle was now hove upon while the third mate on the stage + cut down diagonally into the blubber on the body, which the purchase + ripped off in a broad strip or "blanket" about five feet wide and a foot + thick. Meanwhile the other two officers carved away vigorously at the + head, varying their labours by cutting a hole right through the snout. + This when completed received a heavy chain for the purpose of securing the + head. When the blubber had been about half stripped off the body, a halt + was called in order that the work of cutting off the head might be + finished, for it was a task of incredible difficulty. It was accomplished + at last, and the mass floated astern by a stout rope, after which the + windlass pawls clattered merrily, the "blankets" rose in quick succession, + and were cut off and lowered into the square of the main batch or + "blubber-room." A short time sufficed to strip off the whole of the + body-blubber, and when at last the tail was reached, the backbone was cut + through, the huge mass of flesh floating away to feed the innumerable + scavengers of the sea. No sooner was the last of the blubber lowered into + the hold than the hatches were put on and the head hauled up alongside. + Both tackles were secured to it and all hands took to the windlass levers. + This was a small cow whale of about thirty barrels, that is, yielding that + amount of oil, so it was just possible to lift the entire head on board; + but as it weighed as much as three full-grown elephants, it was indeed a + heavy lift for even our united forces, trying our tackle to the utmost. + The weather was very fine, and the ship rolled but little; even then, the + strain upon the mast was terrific, and right glad was I when at last the + immense cube of fat, flesh, and bone was eased inboard and gently lowered + on deck. + </p> + <p> + As soon as it was secured the work of dividing it began. From the snout a + triangular mass was cut, which was more than half pure spermaceti. This + substance was contained in spongy cells held together by layers of dense + white fibre, exceedingly tough and elastic, and called by the whalers + "white-horse." The whole mass, or "junk" as it is called, was hauled away + to the ship's side and firmly lashed to the bulwarks for the time being, + so that it might not "take charge" of the deck during the rest of the + operations. + </p> + <p> + The upper part of the head was now slit open lengthwise, disclosing an + oblong cistern or "case" full of liquid spermaceti, clear as water. This + was baled out with buckets into a tank, concreting as it cooled into a + wax-like substance, bland and tasteless. There being now nothing more + remaining about the skull of any value, the lashings were loosed, and the + first leeward roll sent the great mass plunging overboard with a mighty + splash. It sank like a stone, eagerly followed by a few small sharks that + were hovering near. + </p> + <p> + As may be imagined, much oil was running about the deck, for so saturated + was every part of the creature with it that it really gushed like water + during the cutting-up process. None of it was allowed to run to waste, + though, for the scupper-holes which drain the deck were all carefully + plugged, and as soon as the "junk" had been dissected all the oil was + carefully "squeegeed" up and poured into the try-pots. + </p> + <p> + Two men were now told off as "blubber-room men," whose duty it became to + go below, and squeezing themselves in as best they could between the + greasy masses of fat, cut it up into "horse-pieces" about eighteen inches + long and six inches square. Doing this they became perfectly saturated + with oil, as if they had taken a bath in a tank of it; for as the vessel + rolled it was impossible to maintain a footing, and every fall was upon + blubber running with oil. A machine of wonderful construction had been + erected on deck in a kind of shallow trough about six feet long by four + feet wide and a foot deep. At some remote period of time it had no doubt + been looked upon as a triumph of ingenuity, a patent mincing machine. Its + action was somewhat like that of a chaff-cutter, except that the knife was + not attached to the wheel, and only rose and fell, since it was not + required to cut right through the "horse-pieces" with which it was fed. It + will be readily understood that in order to get the oil quickly out of the + blubber, it needs to be sliced as thin as possible, but for convenience in + handling the refuse (which is the only fuel used) it is not chopped up in + small pieces, but every "horse-piece" is very deeply scored as it were, + leaving a thin strip to hold the slices together. This then was the order + of work. Two harpooners attended the try-pots, replenishing them with + minced blubber from the hopper at the port side, and baling out the + sufficiently boiled oil into the great cooling tank on the starboard. One + officer superintended the mincing, another exercised a general supervision + over all. There was no man at the wheel and no look-out, for the vessel + was "hove-to" under two close-reefed topsails and fore-topmast-staysail, + with the wheel lashed hard down. A look-out man was unnecessary, since we + could not run anybody down, and if anybody ran us down, it would only be + because all hands were asleep, for the glare of our try-works fire, to say + nothing of the blazing cresset before mentioned, could have been seen for + many miles. So we toiled watch and watch, six hours on and six off, the + work never ceasing for an instant night or day. Though the work was hard + and dirty, and the discomfort of being so continually wet through with oil + great, there was only one thing dangerous about the whole business. That + was the job of filling and shifting the huge casks of oil. Some of these + were of enormous size, containing 350 gallons when full, and the work of + moving them about the greasy deck of a rolling ship was attended with a + terrible amount of risk. For only four men at most could get fair hold of + a cask, and when she took it into her silly old hull to start rolling, + just as we had got one half-way across the deck, with nothing to grip your + feet, and the knowledge that one stumbling man would mean a sudden slide + of the ton and a half weight, and a little heap of mangled corpses + somewhere in the lee scuppers—well one always wanted to be very + thankful when the lashings were safely passed. + </p> + <p> + The whale being a small one, as before noted, the whole business was over + within three days, and the decks scrubbed and re-scrubbed until they had + quite regained their normal whiteness. The oil was poured by means of a + funnel and long canvas hose into the casks stowed in the ground tier at + the bottom of the ship, and the gear, all carefully cleaned and neatly + "stopped up," stowed snugly away below again. + </p> + <p> + This long and elaborate process is quite different from that followed on + board the Arctic whaleships, whose voyages are of short duration, and who + content themselves with merely cutting the blubber up small and bringing + it home to have the oil expressed. But the awful putrid mass discharged + from a Greenlander's hold is of very different quality and value, apart + from the nature of the substance, to the clear and sweet oil, which after + three years in cask is landed from a south-seaman as inoffensive in smell + and flavour as the day it was shipped. No attempt is made to separate the + oil and spermaceti beyond boiling the "head matter," as it is called, by + itself first, and putting it into casks which are not filled up with the + body oil. Spermaceti exists in all the oil, especially that from the + dorsal hump; but it is left for the refiners ashore to extract and leave + the oil quite free from any admixture of the wax-like substance, which + causes it to become solid at temperatures considerably above the + freezing-point. + </p> + <p> + Uninteresting as the preceding description may be, it is impossible to + understand anything of the economy of a south-sea whaler without giving + it, and I have felt it the more necessary because of the scanty notice + given to it in the only two works published on the subject, both of them + highly technical, and written for scientific purposes by medical men. + Therefore I hope to be forgiven if I have tried the patience of my readers + by any prolixity. + </p> + <p> + It will not, of course, have escaped the reader's notice that I have not + hitherto attempted to give any details concerning the structure of the + whale just dealt with. The omission is intentional. During this, our first + attempt at real whaling, my mind was far too disturbed by the novelty and + danger of the position in which I found myself for the first time, for me + to pay any intelligent attention to the party of the second part. + </p> + <p> + But I may safely promise that from the workman's point of view, the + habits, manners, and build of the whales shall be faithfully described as + I saw them during my long acquaintance with them, earnestly hoping that if + my story be not as technical or scientific as that of Drs. Bennett and + Beale, it may be found fully as accurate and reliable; and perhaps the + reader, being like myself a mere layman, so to speak, may be better able + to appreciate description free from scientific formula and nine-jointed + words. + </p> + <p> + Two things I did notice on this occasion which I will briefly allude to + before closing this chapter. One was the peculiar skin of the whale. It + was a bluish-black, and as thin as gold-beater's skin. So thin, indeed, + and tender, that it was easily scraped off with the finger-nail. + Immediately beneath it, upon the surface of the blubber, was a layer or + coating of what for want of a better simile I must call fine short fur, + although unlike fur it had no roots or apparently any hold upon the + blubber. Neither was it attached to the skin which covered it; in fact, it + seemed merely a sort of packing between the skin and the surface of the + thick layer of solid fat which covered the whole area of the whale's body. + The other matter which impressed me was the peculiarity of the teeth. For + up till that time I had held, in common with most seamen, and landsmen, + too, for that matter, the prevailing idea that a "whale" lived by + "suction" (although I did not at all know what that meant), and that it + was impossible for him to swallow a herring. Yet here was a mouth + manifestly intended for greater things in the way of gastronomy than + herrings; nor did it require more than the most casual glances to satisfy + one of so obvious a fact. Then the teeth were heroic in size, protruding + some four or five inches from the gum, and solidly set more than that into + its firm and compact substance. They were certainly not intended for + mastication, being, where thickest, three inches apart, and tapering to a + short point, curving slightly backwards. In this specimen, a female, and + therefore small as I have said, there were twenty of them on each side, + the last three or four near the gullet being barely visible above the gum. + </p> + <p> + Another most convincing reason why no mastication could have been possible + was that there were no teeth visible in the upper jaw. Opposed to each of + the teeth was a socket where a tooth should apparently have been, and this + was conclusive evidence of the soft and yielding nature of the great + creature's food. But there were signs that at some period of the + development of the whale it had possessed a double row of teeth, because + at the bottom of these upper sockets we found in a few cases what seemed + to be an abortive tooth, not one that was growing, because they had no + roots, but a survival of teeth that had once been perfect and useful, but + from disuse, or lack of necessity for them, had gradually ceased to come + to maturity. The interior of the mouth and throat was of a livid white, + and the tongue was quite small for so large an animal. It was almost + incapable of movement, being somewhat like a fowl's. Certainly it could + not have been protruded even from the angle of the mouth, much less have + extended along the parapet of that lower mandible, which reminded one of + the beak of some mighty albatross or stork. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VII. GETTING SOUTHWARD + </h2> + <p> + Whether our recent experience had altered the captain's plans or not I do + not know, but much to the dismay of the Portuguese portion of the crew, we + did but sight, dimly and afar off, the outline of the Cape Verde Islands + before our course was altered, and we bore away for the southward like any + other outward-bounder. That is, as far as our course went; but as to the + speed, we still retained the leisurely tactics hitherto pursued, + shortening sail every night, and, if the weather was very fine, setting it + all again at daybreak. + </p> + <p> + The morose and sullen temper of the captain had been, if anything, made + worse by recent events, and we were worked as hard as if the success of + the voyage depended upon our ceaseless toil of scrubbing, scraping, and + polishing. Discipline was indeed maintained at a high pitch of perfection, + no man daring to look awry, much less complain of any hardship, however + great. Even this humble submissiveness did not satisfy our tyrant, and at + last his cruelty took a more active shape. One of the long Yankee farmers + from Vermont, Abner Cushing by name, with the ingenuity which seems inbred + in his 'cute countrymen, must needs try his hand at making a villainous + decoction which he called "beer," the principal ingredients in which were + potatoes and molasses. Now potatoes formed no part of our dietary, so + Abner set his wits to work to steal sufficient for his purpose, and + succeeded so far that he obtained half a dozen. I have very little doubt + that one of the Portuguese in the forecastle conveyed the information aft + for some reason best known to himself, any more than we white men all had + that in a similar manner all our sayings and doings, however trivial, + became at once known to the officers. However, the fact that the theft was + discovered soon became painfully evident, for we had a visit from the + afterguard in force one afternoon, and Abner with his brewage was haled to + the quarter-deck. There, in the presence of all hands, he was arraigned, + found guilty of stealing the ship's stores, and sentence passed upon him. + By means of two small pieces of fishing line he was suspended by his + thumbs in the weather rigging, in such a manner that when the ship was + upright his toes touched the deck, but when she rolled his whole weight + hung from his thumbs. This of itself one would have thought sufficient + torture for almost any offence, but in addition to it he received two + dozen lashes with an improvised cat-o'-nine-tails, laid on by the brawny + arm of one of the harpooners. We were all compelled to witness this, and + our feelings may be imagined. When, after what seemed a terribly long time + to me (Heaven knows what it must have been to him!), he fainted, although + no chicken I nearly fainted too, from conflicting emotions of sympathy and + impotent rage. + </p> + <p> + He was then released in leisurely fashion, and we were permitted to take + him forward and revive him. As soon as he was able to stand on his feet, + he was called on deck again, and not allowed to go below till his watch + was over. Meanwhile Captain Slocum improved the occasion by giving us a + short harangue, the burden of which was that we had now seen a LITTLE of + what any of us might expect if we played any "dog's tricks" on him. But + you can get used to anything, I suppose: so after the first shock of the + atrocity was over, things went on again pretty much as usual. + </p> + <p> + For the first and only time in my experience, we sighted St. Paul's Rocks, + a tiny group of jagged peaks protruding from the Atlantic nearly on the + Equator. Stupendous mountains they must be, rising almost sheer for about + four and a half miles from the ocean bed. Although they appear quite + insignificant specks upon the vast expanse of water, one could not help + thinking how sublime their appearance would be were they visible from the + plateau whence they spring. Their chief interest to us at the time arose + from the fact that, when within about three miles of them, we were + suddenly surrounded by a vast school of bonito, These fish, so-named by + the Spaniards from their handsome appearance, are a species of mackerel, a + branch of the SCOMBRIDAE family, and attain a size of about two feet long + and forty pounds weight, though their average dimensions are somewhat less + than half that. They feed entirely upon flying-fish and the small leaping + squid or cuttle-fish, but love to follow a ship, playing around her, if + her pace be not too great, for days together. Their flesh resembles beef + in appearance, and they are warm-blooded; but, from their habitat being + mid-ocean, nothing is known with any certainty of their habits of + breeding. + </p> + <p> + The orthodox method of catching them on board ship is to cover a suitable + hook with a piece of white rag a couple of inches long, and attach it to a + stout line. The fisherman then takes his seat upon the jibboom end, having + first, if he is prudent, secured a sack to the jibstay in such a manner + that its mouth gapes wide. Then he unrolls his line, and as the ship + forges ahead the line, blowing out, describes a curve, at the end of which + the bait, dipping to—the water occasionally, roughly represents a + flying-fish. Of course, the faster the ship is going, the better the + chance of deceiving the fish, since they have less time to study the + appearance of the bait. It is really an exaggerated and clumsy form of + fly-fishing, and, as with that elegant pastime, much is due to the skill + of the fisherman. + </p> + <p> + As the bait leaps from crest to crest of the wavelets thrust aside by the + advancing ship, a fish more adventurous or hungrier than the rest will + leap at it, and in an instant there is a dead, dangling weight of from ten + to forty pounds hanging at the end of your line thirty feet below. You + haul frantically, for he may be poorly hooked, and you cannot play him. In + a minute or two, if all goes well, he is plunged in the sack, and safe. + But woe unto you if you have allowed the jeers of your shipmates to + dissuade you from taking a sack out with you. + </p> + <p> + The struggles of these fish are marvellous, and a man runs great risk of + being shaken off the boom, unless his legs are firmly locked in between + the guys. Such is the tremendous vibration that a twenty-pound bonito + makes in a man's grip, that it can be felt in the cabin at the other and + of the ship; and I have often come in triumphantly with one, having lost + all feeling in my arms and a goodly portion of skin off my breast and + side, where I have embraced the prize in a grim determination to hold him + at all hazards, besides being literally drenched with his blood. + </p> + <p> + Like all our fishing operations on board the CACHALOT, this day's fishing + was conducted on scientific principles, and resulted in twenty-five fine + fish being shipped, which were a welcome addition to our scanty allowance. + Happily for us, they would not take the salt in that sultry latitude soon + enough to preserve them; for, when they can be salted, they become like + brine itself, and are quite unfit for food. Yet we should have been + compelled to eat salt bonito, or go without meat altogether, if it had + been possible to cure them. + </p> + <p> + We were now fairly in the "horse latitudes," and, much to our relief, the + rain came down in occasional deluges, permitting us to wash well and + often. I suppose the rains of the tropics have been often enough described + to need no meagre attempts of mine to convey an idea of them; yet I have + often wished I could make home-keeping friends understand how far short + what they often speak of as a "tropical shower" falls of the genuine + article. The nearest I can get to it is the idea of an ocean suspended + overhead, out, of which the bottom occasionally falls. Nothing is visible + or audible but the glare and roar of falling water, and a ship's deck, + despite the many outlets, is full enough to swim about in in a very few + minutes. At such times the whole celestial machinery of rain-making may be + seen in full working order. Five or six mighty waterspouts in various + stages of development were often within easy distance of us; once, indeed, + we watched the birth, growth, and death of one less than a mile away. + First, a big, black cloud, even among that great assemblage of NIMBI, + began to belly downward, until the centre of it tapered into a stem, and + the whole mass looked like a vast, irregularly-moulded funnel. Lower and + lower it reached, as if feeling for a soil in which to grow, until the sea + beneath was agitated sympathetically, rising at last in a sort of pointed + mound to meet the descending column. Our nearness enabled us to see that + both descending and rising parts were whirling violently in obedience to + some invisible force, and when they had joined each other, although the + spiral motion did not appear to continue, the upward rush of the water + through what was now a long elastic tube was very plainly to be seen. The + cloud overhead grew blacker and bigger, until its gloom was terrible. The + pipe, or stem, got thinner gradually, until it became a mere thread; nor, + although watching closely, could we determine when the connection between + sea and sky ceased—one could not call it severed. The point rising + from the sea settled almost immediately amidst a small commotion, as of a + whirlpool. The tail depending from the cloud slowly shortened, and the + mighty reservoir lost the vast bulge which had hung so threateningly + above. Just before the final disappearance of the last portion of the + tube, a fragment of cloud appeared to break off. It fell near enough to + show by its thundering roar what a body of water it must have been, + although it looked like a saturated piece of dirty rag in its descent. + </p> + <p> + For whole days and nights together we sometimes lay almost "as idle as a + painted ship upon a painted ocean," when the deep blue dome above matched + the deep blue plain below, and never a fleck of white appeared in sky or + sea. This perfect stop to our progress troubled none, although it + aggravates a merchant skipper terribly. As for the objects of our search, + they had apparently all migrated other-whither, for never a sign of them + did we see. Finbacks, a species of rorqual, were always pretty numerous, + and as if they knew how useless they were to us, came and played around + like exaggerated porpoises. One in particular kept us company for several + days and nights. We knew him well, from a great triangular scar on his + right side, near the dorsal fin. Sometimes he would remain motionless by + the side of the ship, a few feet below the surface, as distinctly in our + sight as a gold-fish in a parlour globe; or he would go under the keel, + and gently chafe his broad back to and fro along it, making queer tremors + run through the vessel, as if she were scraping over a reef. Whether from + superstition or not I cannot tell, but I never saw any creature injured + out of pure wantonness, except sharks, while I was on board the CACHALOT. + Of course, injuries to men do not count. Had that finback attempted to + play about a passenger ship in such a fashion, all the loungers on board + would have been popping at him with their revolvers and rifles without + ever a thought of compunction; yet here, in a vessel whose errand was + whale-fishing, a whale enjoyed perfect immunity. It was very puzzling. At + last my curiosity became too great to hear any longer, and I sought my + friend Mistah Jones at what I considered a favourable opportunity. I found + him very gracious and communicative, and I got such a lecture on the + natural history of the cetacea as I have never forgotten—the outcome + of a quarter-century's experience of them, and afterwards proved by me to + be correct in every detail, which latter is a great deal more than can be + said of any written natural history that ever I came across. But I will + not go into that now. Leaning over the rail, with the great rorqual laying + perfectly still a few feet below, I was told to mark how slender and + elegant were his proportions. "Clipper-built," my Mentor termed him. He + was full seventy feet long, but his greatest diameter would not reach ten + feet. His snout was long and pointed, while both top and bottom of his + head were nearly flat. When he came up to breathe, which he did out of the + top of his head, he showed us that, instead of teeth, he had a narrow + fringe of baleen (whalebone) all around his upper jaws, although "I kaint + see whyfor, kase he lib on all sort er fish, s'long's dey ain't too big. I + serpose w'en he kaint get nary fish he do de same ez de 'bowhead'—go + er siftin eout dem little tings we calls whale-feed wiv dat ar' rangement + he carry in his mouf." "But why don't we harpoon him?" I asked. Goliath + turned on me a pitying look, as he replied, "Sonny, ef yew wuz ter go on + stick iron inter dat ar fish, yew'd fink de hole bottom fell eout + kerblunk. W'en I uz young 'n foolish, a finback range 'longside me one + day, off de Seychelles. I just done gone miss' a spam whale, and I was + kiender mad,—muss ha' bin. Wall, I let him hab it blam 'tween de + ribs. If I lib ten tousan year, ain't gwine ter fergit dat ar. Wa'nt no + time ter spit, tell ye; eberybody hang ober de side ob de boat. Wiz—poof!—de + line all gone. Clar to glory, I neber see it go. Ef it hab ketch anywhar, + nobody eber see US too. Fus, I t'ought I jump ober de side—neber + face de skipper any mo'. But he uz er good ole man, en he only say, 'Don't + be sech blame jackass any more.' En I don't." From which lucid narration I + gathered that the finback had himself to thank for his immunity from + pursuit. "'Sides," persisted Goliath, "wa' yew gwine do wiv' him? Ain't + six inch uv blubber anywhere 'bout his long ugly carkiss; en dat, dirty + lill' rag 'er whalebone he got in his mouf, 'taint worf fifty cents. En + mor'n dat, we pick up, a dead one when I uz in de ole RAINBOW—done + choke hisself, I spec, en we cut him in. He stink fit ter pison de debbil, + en, after all, we get eighteen bar'l ob dirty oil out ob him. Wa'nt worf + de clean sparm scrap we use ter bile him. G' 'way!" Which emphatic + adjuration, addressed not to me, but to the unconscious monster below, + closed the lesson for the time. + </p> + <p> + The calm still persisted, and, as usual, fish began to abound, especially + flying-fish. At times, disturbed by some hungry bonito or dolphin, a shoal + of them would rise—a great wave of silver—and skim through the + air, rising and falling for perhaps a couple of hundred yards before they + again took to the water; or a solitary one of larger size than usual would + suddenly soar into the air, a heavy splash behind him showing by how few + inches he had missed the jaws of his pursuer. Away he would go in a long, + long curve, and, meeting the ship in his flight, would rise in the air, + turn off at right angles to his former direction, and spin away again, the + whir of his wing-fins distinctly visible as well as audible. At last he + would incline to the water, but just as he was about to enter it there + would be an eddy—the enemy was there waiting—and he would rise + twenty, thirty feet, almost perpendicularly, and dart away fully a hundred + yards on a fresh course before the drying of his wing membranes compelled + him to drop. In the face of such a sight as this, which is of everyday + occurrence in these latitudes, how trivial and misleading the statements + made by the natural history books seem. + </p> + <p> + They tell their readers that the EXOCETUS VOLITANS "does not fly; does not + flutter its wings; can only take a prolonged leap," and so on. The + misfortune attendant upon such books seems, to an unlearned sailor like + myself, to be that, although posing as authorities, most of the authors + are content to take their facts not simply at second-hand, but even unto + twenty-second-hand. So the old fables get repeated, and brought up to + date, and it is nobody's business to take the trouble to correct them. + </p> + <p> + The weather continued calm and clear, and as the flying-fish were about in + such immense numbers, I ventured to suggest to Goliath that we might have + a try for some of them. I verily believe he thought I was mad. He stared + at me for a minute, and then, with an indescribable intonation, said, "How + de ol' Satan yew fink yew gwain ter get'm, hey? Ef yew spects ter fool dis + chile wiv any dem lime-juice yarns, 'bout lanterns 'n boats at night-time, + yew's 'way off." I guessed he meant the fable current among English + sailors, that if you hoist a sail on a calm night in a boat where + flying-fish abound, and hang a lantern in the middle of it, the fish will + fly in shoals at the lantern, strike against the sail, and fall in heaps + in the boat. It MAY be true, but I never spoke to anybody who has seen it + done, nor is it the method practised in the only place in the world where + flying-fishing is followed for a living. So I told Mr. Jones that if we + had some circular nets of small mesh made and stretched on wooden hoops, I + was sure we should be able to catch some. He caught at the idea, and + mentioned it to the mate, who readily gave his permission to use a boat. A + couple of "Guineamen" (a very large kind of flying-fish, having four + wings) flew on board that night, as if purposely to provide us with the + necessary bait. + </p> + <p> + Next morning, about four bells, the sea being like a mirror, unruffled by + a breath of wind, we lowered and paddled off from the ship about a mile. + When far enough away, we commenced operations by squeezing in the water + some pieces of fish that had been kept for the purpose until they were + rather high-flavoured. The exuding oil from this fish spread a thin film + for some distance around the boat, through which, as through a sheet of + glass, we could see a long way down. Minute specks of the bait sank slowly + through the limpid blue, but for at least an hour there was no sign of + life. I was beginning to fear that I should be called to account for + misleading all hands, when, to my unbounded delight, an immense shoal of + flying-fish came swimming round the boat, eagerly picking up the savoury + morsels. We grasped our nets, and, leaning over the gunwale, placed them + silently in the water, pressing them downward and in towards the boat at + the same time. Our success was great and immediate. We lifted the + wanderers by scores, while I whispered imploringly, "Be careful not to + scare them; don't make a sound." All hands entered into the spirit of the + thing with great eagerness. As for Mistah Jones, his delight was almost + more than he could bear. Suddenly one of the men, in lifting his net, + slipped on the smooth bottom of the boat, jolting one of the oars. There + was a gleam of light below as the school turned—they had all + disappeared instanter. We had been so busy that we had not noticed the + dimensions of our catch; but now, to our great joy, we found that we had + at least eight hundred fish nearly as large as herrings. We at once + returned to the ship, having been absent only two hours, during which we + had caught sufficient to provide all hands with three good meals. Not one + of the crew had ever seen or heard of such fishing before, so my pride and + pleasure may be imagined. A little learning may be a dangerous thing at + times, but it certainly is often handy to have about you. The habit of + taking notice and remembering has often been the means of saving many + lives in suddenly-met situations of emergency, at sea perhaps more than + anywhere else, and nothing can be more useful to a sailor than the + practice of keeping his weather-eye open. + </p> + <p> + In Barbadoes there is established the only regular flying-fishery in the + world, and in just the manner I have described, except that the boats are + considerably larger, is the whole town supplied with delicious fish at so + trifling a cost as to make it a staple food among all classes. + </p> + <p> + But I find that I am letting this chapter run to an unconscionable length, + and it does not appear as if we were getting at the southward very fast + either. Truth to tell, our progress was mighty slow; but we gradually + crept across the belt of calms, and a week after our never-to-be-forgotten + haul of flying-fish we got the first of the south-east trades, and went + away south at a good pace—for us. We made the Island of Trinidada + with its strange conical-topped pillar, the Ninepin Rock, but did not make + a call, as the skipper was beginning to get fidgety at not seeing any + whales, and anxious to get down to where he felt reasonably certain of + falling in with them. Life had been very monotonous of late, and much as + we dreaded still the prospect of whale-fighting (by "we," of course, I + mean the chaps forward), it began to lose much of its terror for us, so + greatly did we long for a little change. Keeping, as we did, out of the + ordinary track of ships, we hardly ever saw a sail. We had no recreations; + fun was out of the question; and had it not been for a Bible, a copy of + Shakespeare, and a couple of cheap copies of "David Copperfield" and + "Bleak House," all of which were mine, we should have had no books. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER VIII. ABNER'S WHALE + </h2> + <p> + In a previous chapter I have referred to the fact of a bounty being + offered to whoever should first sight a useful whale, payable only in the + event of the prize being secured by the ship. In consequence of our + ill-success, and to stimulate the watchfulness of all, that bounty was now + increased from ten pounds of tobacco to twenty, or fifteen dollars, + whichever the winner chose to have. Most of us whites regarded this as + quite out of the question for us, whose untrained vision was as the naked + eye to a telescope when pitted against the eagle-like sight of the + Portuguese. Nevertheless, we all did our little best, and I know, for one, + that when I descended from my lofty perch, after a two hours' vigil, my + eyes often ached and burned for an hour afterwards from the intensity of + my gaze across the shining waste of waters. + </p> + <p> + Judge, then, of the surprise of everybody, when one forenoon watch, three + days after we had lost sight of Trinidada, a most extraordinary sound was + heard from the fore crow's-nest. I was, at the time, up at the main, in + company with Louis, the mate's harpooner, and we stared across to see + whatever was the matter, The watchman was unfortunate Abner Cushing, whose + trivial offence had been so severely punished a short time before, and he + was gesticulating and howling like a madman. Up from below came the deep + growl of the skipper, "Foremast head, there, what d'ye say?" "B-b-b-blow, + s-s-sir," stammered Abner; "a big whale right in the way of the sun, sir." + "See anythin', Louey?" roared the skipper to my companion, just as we had + both "raised" the spout almost in the glare cast by the sun. "Yessir," + answered Louis; "but I kaint make him eout yet, sir." "All right; keep yer + eye on him, and lemme know sharp;" and away he went aft for his glasses. + </p> + <p> + The course was slightly altered, so that we headed direct for the whale, + and in less than a minute afterwards we saw distinctly the great black + column of a sperm whale's head rise well above the sea, scattering a + circuit of foam before it, and emitting a bushy, tufted burst of vapour + into the clear air. "There she white-waters! Ah bl-o-o-o-o-o-w, blow, + blow!" sang Louis; and then, in another tone, "Sperm whale, sir; big, + 'lone fish, headin' 'beout east-by-nothe." "All right. 'Way down from + aloft," answered the skipper, who was already half-way up the + main-rigging; and like squirrels we slipped out of our hoops and down the + backstays, passing the skipper like a flash as he toiled upwards, + bellowing orders as he went. Short as our journey down had been, when we + arrived on deck we found all ready for a start. But as the whale was at + least seven miles away, and we had a fair wind for him, there was no hurry + to lower, so we all stood at attention by our respective boats, waiting + for the signal. I found, to my surprise, that, although I was conscious of + a much more rapid heart-beat than usual, I was not half so scared as I + expected to be—that the excitement was rather pleasant than + otherwise. There were a few traces of funk about some of the others still; + but as for Abner, he was fairly transformed; I hardly knew the man. He was + one of Goliath's boat's crew, and the big darkey was quite proud of him. + His eyes sparkled, and he chuckled and smiled constantly, as one who is + conscious of having done a grand stroke of business, not only for himself, + but for all hands. "Lower away boats!" came pealing down from the + skipper's lofty perch, succeeded instantly by the rattle of the patent + blocks as the falls flew through them, while the four beautiful craft took + the water with an almost simultaneous splash. The ship-keepers had trimmed + the yards to the wind and hauled up the courses, so that simply putting + the helm down deadened our way, and allowed the boats to run clear without + danger of fouling one another. To shove off and hoist sail was the work of + a few moments, and with a fine working breeze away we went. As before, our + boat, being the chief's, had the post of honour; but there was now only + one whale, and I rather wondered why we had all left the ship. According + to expectations, down he went when we were within a couple of miles of + him, but quietly and with great dignity, elevating his tail + perpendicularly in the air, and sinking slowly from our view. Again I + found Mr. Count talkative. + </p> + <p> + "Thet whale 'll stay down fifty minutes, I guess," said he, "fer he's + every gill ov a hundred en twenty bar'l; and don't yew fergit it." "Do the + big whales give much more trouble than the little ones?" I asked, seeing + him thus chatty. "Wall, it's jest ez it happens, boy—just ez it + happens. I've seen a fifty-bar'l bull make the purtiest fight I ever hearn + tell ov—a fight thet lasted twenty hours, stove three boats, 'n + killed two men. Then, again, I've seen a hundred 'n fifty bar'l whale lay + 'n take his grooel 'thout hardly wunkin 'n eyelid—never moved ten + fathom from fust iron till fin eout. So yew may say, boy, that they're + like peepul—got thair iudividooal pekyewlyarities, an' thars no + countin' on 'em for sartin nary time." I was in great hopes of getting + some useful information while his mood lasted; but it was over, and + silence reigned. Nor did I dare to ask any more questions; he looked so + stern and fierce. The scene was very striking. Overhead, a bright blue sky + just fringed with fleecy little clouds; beneath, a deep blue sea with + innumerable tiny wavelets dancing and glittering in the blaze of the sun; + but all swayed in one direction by a great, solemn swell that slowly + rolled from east to west, like the measured breathing of some + world-supporting monster. Four little craft in a group, with twenty-four + men in them, silently waiting for battle with one of the mightiest of + God's creatures—one that was indeed a terrible foe to encounter were + he but wise enough to make the best use of his opportunities. Against him + we came with our puny weapons, of which I could not help reminding myself + that "he laugheth at the shaking of a spear." But when the man's brain was + thrown into the scale against the instinct of the brute, the contest + looked less unequal than at first sight, for THERE is the secret of + success. My musings were very suddenly interrupted. Whether we had overrun + our distance, or the whale, who was not "making a passage," but feeding, + had changed his course, I do not know; but, anyhow, he broke water close + ahead, coming straight for our boat. His great black head, like the broad + bow of a dumb barge, driving the waves before it, loomed high and menacing + to me, for I was not forbidden to look ahead now. But coolly, as if coming + alongside the ship, the mate bent to the big steer-oar, and swung the boat + off at right angles to her course, bringing her back again with another + broad sheer as the whale passed foaming. This manoeuvre brought us side by + side with him before he had time to realize that we were there. Up till + that instant he had evidently not seen us, and his surprise was + correspondingly great. To see Louis raise his harpoon high above his head, + and with a hoarse grunt of satisfaction plunge it into the black, shining + mass beside him up to the hitches, was indeed a sight to be remembered. + Quick as thought he snatched up a second harpoon, and as the whale rolled + from us it flew from his hands, burying itself like the former one, but + lower down the body. The great impetus we had when we reached the whale + carried us a long way past him, out of all danger from his struggles. No + hindrance was experienced from the line by which we were connected with + the whale, for it was loosely coiled in a space for the purpose in the + boat's bow to the extent of two hundred feet, and this was cast overboard + by the harpooner as soon as the fish was fast. He made a fearful to-do + over it, rolling completely over several times backward and forward, at + the same time smiting the sea with his mighty tail, making an almost + deafening noise and pother. But we were comfortable enough, while we + unshipped the mast and made ready for action, being sufficiently far away + from him to escape the full effect of his gambols. It was impossible to + avoid reflecting, however, upon what WOULD happen if, in our unprepared + and so far helpless state, he were, instead of simply tumbling about in an + aimless, blind sort of fury, to rush at the boat and try to destroy it. + Very few indeed would survive such an attack, unless the tactics were + radically altered. No doubt they would be, for practices grow up in + consequence of the circumstances with which they have to deal. + </p> + <p> + After the usual time spent in furious attempts to free himself from our + annoyance, he betook himself below, leaving us to await his return, and + hasten it as much as possible by keeping a severe strain upon the line. + Our efforts in this direction, however, did not seem to have any effect + upon him at all. Flake after flake ran out of the tubs, until we were + compelled to hand the end of our line to the second mate to splice his own + on to. Still it slipped away, and at last it was handed to the third mate, + whose two tubs met the same fate. It was now Mistah Jones' turn to "bend + on," which he did with many chuckles as of a man who was the last resource + of the unfortunate. But his face grew longer and longer as the + never-resting line continued to disappear. Soon he signalled us that he + was nearly out of line, and two or three minutes after he bent on his + "drogue" (a square piece of plank with a rope tail spliced into its + centre, and considered to hinder a whale's progress at least as much as + four boats), and let go the end. We had each bent on our drogues in the + same way, when we passed our ends to one another. So now our friend was + getting along somewhere below with 7200 feet of 1 1/2-inch rope, and + weight additional equal to the drag of sixteen 30-feet boats. + </p> + <p> + Of course we knew that, unless he were dead and sinking, he could not + possibly remain much longer beneath the surface. The exhibition of + endurance we had just been favoured with was a very unusual one, I was + told, it being a rare thing for a cachalot to take out two boats' lines + before returning to the surface to spout. + </p> + <p> + Therefore, we separated as widely as was thought necessary, in order to be + near him on his arrival. It was, as might be imagined, some time before we + saw the light of his countenance; but when we did, we had no difficulty in + getting alongside of him again. My friend Goliath, much to my delight, got + there first, and succeeded in picking up the bight of the line. But having + done so, his chance of distinguishing himself was gone. Hampered by the + immense quantity of sunken line which was attached to the whale, he could + do nothing, and soon received orders to cut the bight of the line and pass + the whale's end to us. He had hardly obeyed, with a very bad grace, when + the whale started off to windward with us at a tremendous rate. The other + boats, having no line, could do nothing to help, so away we went alone, + with barely a hundred fathoms of line, in case he should take it into his + head to sound again. The speed at which he went made it appear as if a + gale of wind was blowing and we flew along the sea surface, leaping from + crest to crest of the waves with an incessant succession of cracks like + pistol-shots. The flying spray drenched us and prevented us from seeing + him, but I fully realized that it was nothing to what we should have to + put up with if the wind freshened much. One hand was kept bailing the + water out which came so freely over the bows, but all the rest hauled with + all their might upon the line, hoping to get a little closer to the flying + monster. Inch by inch we gained on him, encouraged by the hoarse + objurgations of the mate, whose excitement was intense. After what seemed + a terribly long chase, we found his speed slackening, and we redoubled our + efforts. Now we were close upon him; now, in obedience to the steersman, + the boat sheered out a bit, and we were abreast of his labouring flukes; + now the mate hurls his quivering lance with such hearty good-will that + every inch of its slender shaft disappears within the huge body. "Layoff! + Off with her, Louey!" screamed the mate; and she gave a wide sheer away + from the whale, not a second too soon. Up flew that awful tail, descending + with a crash upon the water not two feet from us. "Out oars! Pull, two! + starn, three!" shouted the mate; and as we obeyed our foe turned to fight. + Then might one see how courage and skill were such mighty factors in the + apparently unequal contest. The whale's great length made it no easy job + for him to turn, while our boat, with two oars a-side, and the great + leverage at the stern supplied by the nineteen-foot steer-oar circled, + backed, and darted ahead like a living thing animated by the mind of our + commander. When the leviathan settled, we gave a wide berth to his + probable place of ascent; when he rushed at us, we dodged him; when he + paused, if only momentarily, in we flew, and got home a fearful thrust of + the deadly lance. + </p> + <p> + All fear was forgotten now—I panted, thirsted for his life. Once, + indeed, in a sort of frenzy, when for an instant we lay side by side with + him, I drew my sheath-knife, and plunged it repeatedly into the blubber, + as if I were assisting is his destruction. Suddenly the mate gave a howl: + "Starn all—starn all! oh, starn!" and the oars bent like canes as we + obeyed. There was an upheaval of the sea just ahead; then slowly, + majestically, the vast body of our foe rose into the air. Up, up it went, + while my heart stood still, until the whole of that immense creature hung + on high, apparently motionless, and then fell—a hundred tons of + solid flesh—back into the sea. On either side of that mountainous + mass the waters rose in shining towers of snowy foam, which fell in their + turn, whirling and eddying around us as we tossed and fell like a chip in + a whirlpool. Blinded by the flying spray, baling for very life to free the + boat from the water with which she was nearly full, it was some minutes + before I was able to decide whether we were still uninjured or not. Then I + saw, at a little distance, the whale lying quietly. As I looked he + spouted, and the vapour was red with his blood. "Starn all!" again cried + our chief, and we retreated to a considerable distance. The old warrior's + practised eye had detected the coming climax of our efforts, the dying + agony or "furry" of the great mammal. Turning upon his side, he began to + move in a circular direction, slowly at first, then faster and faster, + until he was rushing round at tremendous speed, his great head raised + quite out of water at times, clashing his enormous jaws. Torrents of blood + poured from his spout-hole, accompanied by hoarse bellowings, as of some + gigantic bull, but really caused by the labouring breath trying to pass + through the clogged air passages. The utmost caution and rapidity of + manipulation of the boat was necessary to avoid his maddened rush, but + this gigantic energy was short-lived. In a few minutes he subsided slowly + in death, his mighty body reclined on one side, the fin uppermost waving + limply as he rolled to the swell, while the small waves broke gently over + the carcass in a low, monotonous surf, intensifying the profound silence + that had succeeded the tumult of our conflict with the late monarch of the + deep. Hardly had the flurry ceased, when we hauled up alongside of our + hard-won prize, in order to secure a line to him in a better manner than + at present for hauling him to the ship. This was effected by cutting a + hole through the tough, gristly substance of the flukes with the short + "boat-spade," carried for the purpose. The end of the line, cut off from + the faithful harpoon that had held it so long, was then passed through + this hole and made fast. This done, it was "Smoke-oh!" The luxury of that + rest and refreshment was something to be grateful for, coming, as it did, + in such complete contrast to our recent violent exertions. + </p> + <p> + The ship was some three or four miles off to leeward, so we reckoned she + would take at least an hour and a half to work up to us. Meanwhile, our + part of the performance being over, and well over, we thoroughly enjoyed + ourselves, lazily rocking on the gentle swell by the side of a catch worth + at least L800. During the conflict I had not noticed what now claimed + attention—several great masses of white, semi-transparent-looking + substance floating about, of huge size and irregular shape. But one of + these curious lumps came floating by as we lay, tugged at by several fish, + and I immediately asked the mate if he could tell me what it was and where + it came from. He told me that, when dying, the cachalot always ejected the + contents of his stomach, which were invariably composed of such masses as + we saw before us; that he believed the stuff to be portions of big + cuttle-fish, bitten off by the whale for the purpose of swallowing, but he + wasn't sure. Anyhow, I could haul this piece alongside now, if I liked, + and see. Secretly wondering at the indifference shown by this officer of + forty years' whaling experience to such a wonderful fact as appeared to be + here presented, I thanked him, and, sticking the boat-hook into the lump, + drew it alongside. It was at once evident that it was a massive fragment + of cuttle-fish—tentacle or arm—as thick as a stout man's body, + and with six or seven sucking-discs or ACETABULA on it. These were about + as large as a saucer, and on their inner edge were thickly set with hooks + or claws all round the rim, sharp as needles, and almost the shape and + size of a tiger's. + </p> + <p> + To what manner of awful monster this portion of limb belonged, I could + only faintly imagine; but of course I remembered, as any sailor would, + that from my earliest sea-going I had been told that the cuttle-fish was + the biggest in the sea, although I never even began to think it might be + true until now. I asked the mate if he had ever seen such creatures as + this piece belonged to alive and kicking. He answered, languidly, "Wall, I + guess so; but I don't take any stock in fish, 'cept for provisions er ile—en + that's a fact." It will be readily believed that I vividly recalled this + conversation when, many years after, I read an account by the Prince of + Monaco of HIS discovery of a gigantic squid, to which his naturalist gave + the name of LEPIDOTEUTHIS GRIMALDII! Truly the indifference and apathy + manifested by whalers generally to everything except commercial matters is + wonderful—hardly to be credited. However, this was a mighty + revelation to me. For the first time, it was possible to understand that, + contrary to the usual notion of a whale's being unable to swallow a + herring, here was a kind of whale that could swallow—well, a block + four or five feet square apparently; who lived upon creatures as large as + himself, if one might judge of their bulk by the sample to hand; but being + unable, from only possessing teeth in one jaw, to masticate his food, was + compelled to tear it in sizable pieces, bolt it whole, and leave his + commissariat department to do the rest. + </p> + <p> + While thus ruminating, the mate and Louis began a desultory conversation + concerning what they termed "ambergrease." I had never even heard the word + before, although I had a notion that Milton, in "Paradise Regained," + describing the Satanic banquet, had spoken of something being "grisamber + steamed." They could by no means agree as to what this mysterious + substance was, how it was produced, or under what conditions. They knew + that it was sometimes found floating near the dead body of a sperm whale—the + mate, in fact, stated that he had taken it once from the rectum of a + cachalot—and they were certain that it was of great value—from + one to three guineas per ounce. When I got to know more of the natural + history of the sperm whale, and had studied the literature of the subject, + I was so longer surprised at their want of agreement, since the learned + doctors who have written upon the subject do not seem to have come to + definite conclusions either. + </p> + <p> + By some it is supposed to be the product of a diseased condition of the + creature; others consider that it is merely the excreta, which, normally + fluid, has by some means become concreted. It is nearly always found with + cuttle-fish beaks imbedded in its substance, showing that these + indigestible portions of the sperm whale's food have in some manner become + mixed with it during its formation in the bowel. Chemists have analyzed it + with scanty results. Its great value is due to its property of + intensifying the power of perfumes, although, strange to say, it has + little or no odour of its own, a faint trace of musk being perhaps + detectable in some cases. The Turks are said to use it for a truly Turkish + purpose, which need not be explained here, while the Moors are credited + with a taste for it in their cookery. About both these latter statements + there is considerable doubt; I only give them for what they are worth, + without, committing myself to any definite belief in them. + </p> + <p> + The ship now neared us fast, and as soon as she rounded-to, we left the + whale and pulled towards her, paying out line as we went. Arriving + alongside, the line was handed on board, and in a short time the prize was + hauled to the gangway. We met with a very different reception this time. + The skipper's grim face actually looked almost pleasant as he contemplated + the colossal proportions of the latest addition to our stock. He was + indeed a fine catch, being at least seventy feet long, and in splendid + condition. As soon as he was secured alongside in the orthodox fashion, + all hands were sent to dinner, with an intimation to look sharp over it. + Judging from our slight previous experience, there was some heavy labour + before us, for this whale was nearly four times as large as the one caught + off the Cape Verds. And it was so. Verily those officers toiled like + Titans to get that tremendous head off even the skipper taking a hand. In + spite of their efforts, it was dark before the heavy job was done. As we + were in no danger of bad weather, the head was dropped astern by a hawser + until morning, when it would be safer to dissect it. All that night we + worked incessantly, ready to drop with fatigue, but not daring to suggest, + the possibility of such a thing. Several of the officers and harpooners + were allowed a few hours off, as their special duty of dealing with the + head at daylight would be so arduous as to need all their energies. When + day dawned we were allowed a short rest, while the work of cutting up the + head was undertaken by the rested men. At seven bells (7.30) it was "turn + to" all hands again. The "junk" was hooked on to both cutting tackles, and + the windlass manned by everybody who could get hold. Slowly the enormous + mass rose, canting the ship heavily as it came, while every stick and rope + aloft complained of the great strain upon them. When at last it was safely + shipped, and the tackles cast off, the size of this small portion of a + full-grown cachalot's body could be realized, not before. + </p> + <p> + It was hauled from the gangway by tackles, and securely lashed to the rail + running round beneath the top of the bulwarks for that purpose—the + "lash-rail"—where the top of it towered up as high as the third + ratline of the main-rigging. Then there was another spell, while the + "case" was separated from the skull. This was too large to get on board, + so it was lifted half-way out of water by the tackles, one hooked on each + side; then they were made fast, and a spar rigged across them at a good + height above the top of the case. A small block was lashed to this spar, + through which a line was rove. A long, narrow bucket was attached to one + end of this rope; the other end on deck was attended by two men. One + unfortunate beggar was perched aloft on the above-mentioned spar, where + his position, like the main-yard of Marryatt's verbose carpenter was + "precarious and not at all permanent." He was provided with a pole, with + which he pushed the bucket down through a hole cut in the upper end of the + "case," whence it was drawn out by the chaps on deck full of spermaceti. + It was a weary, unsatisfactory process, wasting a great deal of the + substance being baled out; but no other way was apparently possible. The + grease blew about, drenching most of us engaged in an altogether + unpleasant fashion, while, to mend matters, the old barky began to roll + and tumble about in an aimless, drunken sort of way, the result of a new + cross swell rolling up from the south-westward. As the stuff was gained, + it was poured into large tanks in the blubber-room, the quantity being too + great to be held by the try-pots at once. Twenty-five barrels of this + clear, wax-like substance were baled from that case; and when at last it + was lowered a little, and cut away from its supports, it was impossible to + help thinking that much was still remaining within which we, with such + rude means, were unable to save. Then came the task of cutting up the + junk. Layer after layer, eight to ten inches thick, was sliced off, cut + into suitable pieces, and passed into the tanks. So full was the matter of + spermaceti that one could take a piece as large as one's head in the + hands, and squeeze it like a sponge, expressing the spermaceti in showers, + until nothing remained but a tiny ball of fibre. All this soft, pulpy mass + was held together by walls of exceedingly tough, gristly integrument + ("white horse"), which was as difficult to cut as gutta-percha, and, but + for the peculiar texture, not at all unlike it. + </p> + <p> + When we had finished separating the junk, there was nearly a foot of oil + on deck in the waist, and uproarious was the laughter when some hapless + individual, losing his balance, slid across the deck and sat down with a + loud splash in the deepest part of the accumulation. + </p> + <p> + The lower jaw of this whale measured exactly nineteen feet in length from + the opening of the mouth, or, say the last of the teeth, to the point, and + carried twenty-eight teeth on each side. For the time, it was hauled aft + out of the way, and secured to the lash-rail. The subsequent proceedings + were just the same as before described, only more so. For a whole week our + labours continued, and when they were over we had stowed below a hundred + and forty-six barrels of mingled oil and spermaceti, or fourteen and a + half tuns. + </p> + <p> + It was really a pleasant sight to see Abner receiving as if being invested + with an order of merit, the twenty pounds of tobacco to which he was + entitled. Poor fellow! he felt as if at last he were going to be thought a + little of, and treated a little better. He brought his bounty forrard, and + shared it out as far as it would go with the greatest delight and good + nature possible. Whatever he might have been thought of aft, certainly, + for the time, he was a very important personage forrard; even the + Portuguese, who were inclined to be jealous of what they considered an + infringement of their rights, were mollified by the generosity shown. + </p> + <p> + After every sign of the operations had been cleared away, the jaw was + brought out, and the teeth extracted with a small tackle. They were set + solidly into a hard white gum, which had to be cut away all around them + before they would come out. When cleaned of the gum, they were headed up + in a small barrel of brine. The great jaw-pans were sawn off, and placed + at the disposal of anybody who wanted pieces of bone for "scrimshaw," or + carved work. This is a very favourite pastime on board whalers, though, in + ships such as ours, the crew have little opportunity for doing anything, + hardly any leisure during daylight being allowed. But our carpenter was a + famous workman at "scrimshaw," and he started half a dozen walking-sticks + forthwith. A favourite design is to carve the bone into the similitude of + a rope, with "worming" of smaller line along its lays. A handle is carved + out of a whale's tooth, and insets of baleen, silver, cocoa-tree, or + ebony, give variety and finish. The tools used are of the roughest. Some + old files, softened in the fire, and filed into grooves something like + saw-teeth, are most used; but old knives, sail-needles, and chisels are + pressed into service. The work turned out would, in many cases, take a + very high place in an exhibition of turnery, though never a lathe was near + it. Of course, a long time is taken over it, especially the polishing, + which is done with oil and whiting, if it can be got—powdered pumice + if it cannot. I once had an elaborate pastry-cutter carved out of six + whale's teeth, which I purchased for a pound of tobacco from a seaman of + the CORAL whaler, and afterwards sold in Dunedin, New Zealand, for L2 + 10s., the purchaser being decidedly of opinion that he had a bargain. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER IX. OUR FIRST CALLING-PLACE + </h2> + <p> + Perhaps it may hastily be assumed, from the large space already devoted to + fishing operations of various kinds, that the subject will not bear much + more dealing with, if my story is to avoid being monotonous. But I beg to + assure you, dear reader, that while of course I have most to say in + connection with the business of the voyage, nothing is farther from my + plan than to neglect the very interesting portion of our cruise which + relates to visiting strange, out-of-the-way corners of the world. If—which + I earnestly deprecate—the description hitherto given of sperm + whale-fishing and its adjuncts be found not so interesting as could be + wished, I cry you mercy. I have been induced to give more space to it + because it has been systematically avoided in the works upon whale-fishing + before mentioned, which, as I have said, were not intended for popular + reading. True, neither may my humble tome become popular either; but, if + it does not, no one will be so disappointed as the author. + </p> + <p> + We had made but little progress during the week of oil manufacture, very + little attention being paid to the sails while that work was about; but, + as the south-east trades blew steadily, we did not remain stationary + altogether. So that the following week saw us on the south side of the + tropic of Capricorn, the south-east trade done, and the dirty weather and + variable squalls, which nearly always precede the "westerlies," making our + lives a burden to us. Here, however, we were better off than in an + ordinary merchantman, where doldrums are enough to drive you mad. The one + object being to get along, it is incessant "pully-hauly," setting and + taking in sail, in order, on the one hand, to lose no time, and, on the + other, to lose no sails. Now, with us, whenever the weather was doubtful + or squally-looking, we shortened sail, and kept it fast till better + weather came along, being quite careless whether we made one mile a day or + one hundred. But just because nobody took any notice of our progress as + the days passed, we were occasionally startled to find how far we had + really got. This was certainly the case with all of us forward, even to me + who had some experience, so well used had I now become to the leisurely + way of getting along. To the laziest of ships, however, there comes + occasionally a time when the bustling, hurrying wind will take no denial, + and you've got to "git up an' git," as the Yanks put it. Such a time + succeeded our "batterfanging" about, after losing the trades. We got hold + of a westerly wind that, commencing quietly, gently, steadily, taking two + or three days before it gathered force and volume, strengthened at last + into a stern, settled gale that would brook no denial, to face which would + have been misery indeed. To vessels bound east it came as a boon and + blessing, for it would be a crawler that could not reel off her two + hundred and fifty miles a day before the push of such a breeze. Even the + CACHALOT did her one hundred and fifty, pounding and bruising the ill-used + sea in her path, and spreading before her broad bows a far-reaching area + of snowy foam, while her wake was as wide as any two ordinary ships ought + to make. Five or six times a day the flying East India or colonial-bound + English ships, under every stitch of square sail, would appear as tiny + specks on the horizon astern, come up with us, pass like a flash, and fade + away ahead, going at least two knots to our one. I could not help feeling + a bit home-sick and tired of my present surroundings, in spite of their + interest, when I saw those beautiful ocean-flyers devouring the distance + which lay before them, and reflected that in little more than one month + most of them would be discharging in Melbourne, Sydney, Calcutta, or some + other equally distant port, while we should probably be dodging about in + our present latitude a little farther east. + </p> + <p> + After a few days of our present furious rate of speed, I came on deck one + morning, and instantly recognized an old acquaintance. Right ahead, + looking nearer than I had ever seen it before, rose the towering mass of + Tristan d'Acunha, while farther away, but still visible, lay Nightingale + and Inaccessible Islands. Their aspect was familiar, for I had sighted + them on nearly every voyage I had made round the Cape, but I had never + seen them so near as this. There was a good deal of excitement among us, + and no wonder. Such a break in the monotony of our lives as we were about + to have was enough to turn our heads. Afterwards, we learned to view these + matters in a more philosophic light; but now, being new and galled by the + yoke, it was a different thing. Near as the island seemed, it was six + hours before we got near enough to distinguish objects on shore. I have + seen the top of Tristan peeping through a cloud nearly a hundred miles + away, for its height is tremendous. St. Helena looks a towering, scowling + mass when you approach it closely but Tristan d'Acunha is far more + imposing, its savage-looking cliffs seeming to sternly forbid the + venturesome voyager any nearer familiarity with their frowning fastnesses. + Long before we came within working distance of the settlement, we were + continually passing broad patches of kelp (FUCUS GIGANTEA), whose great + leaves and cable-laid stems made quite reef-like breaks in the heaving + waste of restless sea. Very different indeed were these patches of marine + growth from the elegant wreaths of the Gulf-weed with which parts of the + North Atlantic are so thickly covered. Their colour was deep brown, almost + black is some cases, and the size of many of the leaves amazing, being + four to five feet long, by a foot wide, with stalks as thick as one's arm. + They have their origin around these storm-beaten rocks, which lie + scattered thinly over the immense area of the Southern Ocean, whence they + are torn, in masses like those we saw, by every gale, and sent wandering + round the world. + </p> + <p> + When we arrived within about three miles of the landing-place, we saw a + boat coming off, so we immediately hove-to and awaited her arrival. There + was no question of anchoring; indeed, there seldom is in these vessels, + unless they are going to make a long stay, for they are past masters in + the art of "standing off and on." The boat came alongside—a big, + substantially-built craft of the whale-boat type, but twice the size—manned + by ten sturdy-looking fellows, as unkempt and wild-looking as any pirates. + They were evidently put to great straits for clothes, many curious + makeshifts being noticeable in their rig, while it was so patched with + every conceivable kind of material that it was impossible to say which was + the original or "standing part." They brought with them potatoes, onions, + a few stunted cabbages, some fowls, and a couple of good-sized pigs, at + the sight of which good things our eyes glistened and our mouths watered. + Alas! none of the cargo of that boat ever reached OUR hungry stomachs. We + were not surprised, having anticipated that every bit of provision would + be monopolized by our masters; but of course we had no means of altering + such a state of things. + </p> + <p> + The visitors had the same tale to tell that seems universal—bad + trade, hard times, nothing doing. How very familiar it seemed, to be sure. + Nevertheless, it could not be denied that their sole means of + communication with the outer world, as well as market for their goods, the + calling whale-ships, were getting fewer and fewer every year; so that + their outlook was not, it must be confessed, particularly bright. But + their wants are few, beyond such as they can themselves supply. Groceries + and clothes, the latter especially, as the winters are very severe, are + almost the only needs they require to be supplied with from without. They + spoke of the "Cape" as if it were only across the way, the distance + separating them from that wonderful place being over thirteen hundred + miles in reality. Very occasionally a schooner from Capetown does visit + them; but, as the seals are almost exterminated, there is less and less + inducement to make the voyage. + </p> + <p> + Like almost all the southern islets, this group has been in its time the + scene of a wonderfully productive seal-fishery. It used to be customary + for whaling and sealing vessels to land a portion of their crews, and + leave them to accumulate a store of seal-skins and oil, while the ships + cruised the surrounding seas for whales, which were exceedingly numerous, + both "right" and sperm varieties. In those days there was no monotony of + existence in these islands, ships were continually coming and going, and + the islanders prospered exceedingly. When they increased beyond the + capacity of the islands to entertain them, a portion migrated to the Cape, + while many of the men took service in the whale-ships, for which they were + eminently suited. + </p> + <p> + They are, as might be expected, a hybrid lot, the women all mulattoes, but + intensely English in their views and loyalty. Since the visit of H.M.S. + GALATEA, in August, 1867, with the Duke of Edinburgh on board, this + sentiment had been intensified, and the little collection of thatched + cottages, nameless till then, was called Edinburgh, in honour of the + illustrious voyager. They breed cattle, a few sheep, and pigs, although + the sheep thrive but indifferently for some reason or another. Poultry + they have in large numbers, so that, could they commend a market, they + would do very well. + </p> + <p> + The steep cliffs, rising from the sea for nearly a thousand feet, often + keep their vicinity in absolute calm, although a heavy gale may be raging + on the other side of the island, and it would be highly dangerous for any + navigator not accustomed to such a neighbourhood to get too near them. The + immense rollers setting inshore, and the absence of wind combined, would + soon carry a vessel up against the beetling crags, and letting go an + anchor would not be of the slightest use, since the bottom, being of + massive boulders, affords no holding ground at all. All round the island + the kelp grows thickly, so thickly indeed as to make a boat's progress + through it difficult. This, however, is very useful in one way here, as we + found. Wanting more supplies, which were to be had cheap, we lowered a + couple of boats, and went ashore after them. On approaching the black, + pebbly beach which formed the only landing-place, it appeared as if + getting ashore would be a task of no ordinary danger and difficulty. The + swell seemed to culminate as we neared the beach, lifting the boats at one + moment high in air, and at the next lowering them into a green valley, + from whence nothing could be seen but the surrounding watery summits. + Suddenly we entered the belt of kelp, which extended for perhaps a quarter + of a mile seaward, and, lo! a transformation indeed. Those loose, waving + fronds of flexible weed, though swayed hither and thither by every ripple, + were able to arrest the devastating rush of the gigantic swell, so that + the task of landing, which had looked so terrible, was one of the easiest. + Once in among the kelp, although we could hardly use the oars, the water + was quite smooth and tranquil. The islanders collected on the beach, and + guided us to the best spot for landing, the huge boulders, heaped in many + places, being ugly impediments to a boat. + </p> + <p> + We were as warmly welcomed as if we had been old friends, and hospitable + attentions were showered upon us from every side. The people were + noticeably well-behaved, and, although there was something Crusoe-like in + their way of living, their manners and conversation were distinctly good. + A rude plenty was evident, there being no lack of good food—fish, + fowl, and vegetables. The grassy plateau on which the village stands is a + sort of shelf jutting out from the mountain-side, the mountain being + really the whole island. Steep roads were hewn out of the solid rock, + leading, as we were told, to the cultivated terraces above. These reached + an elevation of about a thousand feet. Above all towered the great, + dominating peak, the summit lost in the clouds eight or nine thousand feet + above. The rock-hewn roads and cultivated land certainly gave the + settlement an old-established appearance, which was not surprising seeing + that it has been inhabited for more than a hundred years. I shall always + bear a grateful recollection of the place, because my host gave me what I + had long been a stranger to—a good, old-fashioned English dinner of + roast beef and baked potatoes. He apologized for having no plum-pudding to + crown the feast. "But, you see," he said, "we kaint grow no corn hyar, and + we'm clean run out ov flour; hev ter make out on taters 's best we kin." I + sincerely sympathized with him on the lack of bread-stuff among them, and + wondered no longer at the avidity with which they had munched our flinty + biscuits on first coming aboard. His wife, a buxom, motherly woman of + about fifty, of dark, olive complexion, but good features, was kindness + itself; and their three youngest children, who were at home, could not, in + spite of repeated warnings and threats, keep their eyes off me, as if I + had been some strange animal dropped from the moon. I felt very unwilling + to leave them so soon, but time was pressing, the stores we had come for + were all ready to ship, and I had to tear myself away from these kindly + entertainers. I declare, it seemed like parting with old friends; yet our + acquaintance might have been measured by minutes, so brief it had been. + The mate had purchased a fine bullock, which had been slaughtered and cut + up for us with great celerity, four or five dozen fowls (alive), four or + five sacks of potatoes, eggs, etc., so that we were heavily laden for the + return journey to the ship. My friend had kindly given me a large piece of + splendid cheese, for which I was unable to make him any return, being + simply clad in a shirt and pair of trousers, neither of which necessary + garments could be spared. + </p> + <p> + With hearty cheers from the whole population, we shoved off and ploughed + through the kelp seaweed again. When we got clear of it, we found the + swell heavier than when we had come, and a rough journey back to the ship + was the result. But, to such boatmen as we were, that was a trifle hardly + worth mentioning, and after an hour's hard pull we got alongside again, + and transhipped our precious cargo. The weather being threatening, we at + once hauled off the land and out to sea, as night was falling and we did + not wish to be in so dangerous a vicinity any longer than could be helped + in stormy weather. Altogether, a most enjoyable day, and one that I have + ever since had a pleasant recollection of. + </p> + <p> + By daybreak next morning the islands were out of sight, for the wind had + risen to a gale, which, although we carried little sail, drove us along + before it some seven or eight knots an hour. + </p> + <p> + Two days afterwards we caught another whale of medium size, making us + fifty-four barrels of oil. As nothing out of the ordinary course marked + the capture, it is unnecessary to do more than allude to it in passing, + except to note that the honours were all with Goliath. He happened to be + close to the whale when it rose, and immediately got fast. So dexterous + and swift were his actions that before any of the other boats could "chip + in" he had his fish "fin out," the whole affair from start to finish only + occupying a couple of hours. We were now in the chosen haunts of the great + albatross, Cape pigeons, and Cape hens, but never in my life had I + imagined such a concourse of them as now gathered around us. When we + lowered there might have been perhaps a couple of dozen birds in sight, + but no sooner was the whale dead than from out of the great void around + they began to drift towards us. Before we had got him fast alongside, the + numbers of that feathered host were incalculable. They surrounded us until + the sea surface was like a plain of snow, and their discordant cries were + deafening. With the exception of one peculiar-looking bird, which has + received from whalemen the inelegant name of "stinker," none of them + attempted to alight upon the body of the dead monster. This bird, however, + somewhat like a small albatross, but of dirty-grey colour, and with a + peculiar excrescence on his beak, boldly took his precarious place upon + the carcase, and at once began to dig into the blubber. He did not seem to + make much impression, but he certainly tried hard. + </p> + <p> + It was dark before we got our prize secured by the fluke-chain, so that we + could not commence operations before morning. That night it blew hard, and + we got an idea of the strain these vessels are sometimes subjected to. + Sometimes the ship rolled one way and the whale another, being divided by + a big sea, the wrench at the fluke-chain, as the two masses fell apart + down different hollows, making the vessel quiver from truck to keelson as + if she was being torn asunder. Then we would come together again with a + crash and a shock that almost threw everybody out of their bunks. Many an + earnest prayer did I breathe that the chain would prove staunch, for what + sort of a job it would be to go after that whale during the night, should + he break loose, I could only faintly imagine. But all our gear was of the + very best; no thieving ship-chandler had any hand in supplying our outfit + with shoddy rope and faulty chain, only made to sell, and ready at the + first call made upon it to carry away and destroy half a dozen valuable + lives. There was one coil of rope on board which the skipper had bought + for cordage on the previous voyage from a homeward-bound English ship, and + it was the butt of all the officers' scurrilous remarks about Britishers + and their gear. It was never used but for rope-yarns, being cut up in + lengths, and untwisted for the ignominious purpose of tying things up—"hardly + good enough for that," was the verdict upon it. + </p> + <p> + Tired as we all were, very little sleep came to us that night—we + were barely seasoned yet to the exigencies of a whaler's life—but + afterwards I believe nothing short of dismasting or running the ship + ashore would wake us, once we got to sleep. In the morning we commenced + operations in a howling gale of wind, which placed the lives of the + officers on the "cutting in" stage in great danger. The wonderful + seaworthy qualities of our old ship shone brilliantly now. When an + ordinary modern-built sailing-ship would have been making such weather of + it as not only to drown anybody about the deck, but making it impossible + to keep your footing anywhere without holding on, we were enabled to cut + in this whale. True, the work was terribly exhausting and decidedly + dangerous, but it was not impossible, for it was done. By great care and + constant attention, the whole work of cutting in and trying out was got + through without a single accident; but had another whale turned up to + continue the trying time, I am fully persuaded that some of us would have + gone under from sheer fatigue. For there was no mercy shown. All that I + have ever read of "putting the slaves through for all they were worth" on + the plantations was fully realized here, and our worthy skipper must have + been a lineal descendent of the doughty Simon Legree. + </p> + <p> + The men were afraid to go on to the sick-list. Nothing short of total + inability to continue would have prevented them from working, such was the + terror with which that man had inspired us all. It may be said that we + were a pack of cowards, who, without the courage to demand better + treatment, deserved all we got. While admitting that such a conclusion is + quite a natural one at which to arrive, I must deny its truth. There were + men in that forecastle as good citizens and as brave fellows as you would + wish to meet—men who in their own sphere would have commanded and + obtained respect. But under the painful and abnormal circumstances in + which they found themselves—beaten and driven like dogs while in the + throes of sea-sickness, half starved and hopeless, their spirit had been + so broken, and they were so kept down to that sad level by the display of + force, aided by deadly weapons aft, that no other condition could be + expected for them but that of broken-hearted slaves. My own case was many + degrees better than that of the other whites, as I have before noted; but + I was perfectly well aware that the slightest attempt on my part to show + that I resented our common treatment would meet with the most brutal + repression, and, in addition, I might look for a dreadful time of it for + the rest of the voyage. + </p> + <p> + The memory of that week of misery is so strong upon me even now that my + hand trembles almost to preventing me from writing about it. Weak and + feeble do the words seem as I look at them, making me wish for the fire + and force of Carlyle or Macaulay to portray our unnecessary sufferings. + </p> + <p> + Like all other earthly ills, however, they came to an end, at least for a + time, and I was delighted to note that we were getting to the northward + again. In making the outward passage round the Cape, it is necessary to go + well south, in order to avoid the great westerly set of the Agulhas + current, which for ever sweeps steadily round the southern extremity of + the African continent at an average rate of three or four miles an hour. + To homeward-bound ships this is a great boon. No matter what the weather + may be—a stark calm or a gale of wind right on end in your teeth—that + vast, silent river in the sea steadily bears you on at the same rate in + the direction of home. It is perfectly true that with a gale blowing + across the set of this great current, one of the very ugliest combinations + of broken waves is raised; but who cares for that, when he knows that, as + long as the ship holds together, some seventy or eighty miles per day + nearer home must be placed to her credit? In like manner, it is of the + deepest comfort to know that, storm or calm, fair or foul, the current of + time, unhasting, unresting, bears us on to the goal that we shall surely + reach—the haven of unbroken rest. + </p> + <p> + Not the least of the minor troubles on board the CACHALOT was the + uncertainty of our destination; we never knew where we were going. It may + seem a small point, but it is really not so unimportant as a landsman + might imagine. On an ordinary passage, certain well-known signs are as + easily read by the seaman as if the ship's position were given out to him + every day. Every alteration of the course signifies some point of the + journey reached, some well-known track entered upon, and every landfall + made becomes a new departure from whence to base one's calculations, + which, rough as they are, rarely err more than a few days. + </p> + <p> + Say, for instance, you are bound for Calcutta. The first of the north-east + trades will give a fair idea of your latitude being about the edge of the + tropics somewhere, or say from 20deg. to 25deg. N., whether you have + sighted any of the islands or not. Then away you go before the wind down + towards the Equator, the approach to which is notified by the loss of the + trade and the dirty, changeable weather of the "doldrums." That weary bit + of work over, along come the south-east trades, making you brace "sharp + up," and sometimes driving you uncomfortably near the Brazilian coast. + Presently more "doldrums," with a good deal more wind in them than in the + "wariables" of the line latitude. The brave "westerly" will come along + by-and-by and release you, and, with a staggering press of sail carried to + the reliable gale, away you go for the long stretch of a hundred degrees + or so eastward. You will very likely sight Tristan d'Acunha or Gough + Island; but, if not, the course will keep you fairly well informed of your + longitude, since most ships make more or less of a great circle track. + Instead of steering due East for the whole distance, they make for some + southerly latitude by running along the arc of a great circle, THEN run + due east for a thousand miles or so before gradually working north again. + These alterations in the courses tell the foremast hand nearly all he + wants to know, slight as they are. You will most probably sight Amsterdam + Island or St. Paul's in about 77deg. E.; but whether you do or not, the + big change made in the course, to say nothing of the difference in the + weather and temperature, say loudly that your long easterly run is over, + and you are bound to the northward again. Soon the south-east trades will + take you gently in hand, and waft you pleasurably upward to the line + again, unless you should be so unfortunate as to meet one of the + devastating meteors known as "cyclones" in its gyration across the Indian + Ocean. After losing the trade, which signals your approach to the line + once more, your guides fluctuate muchly with the time of year. But it may + be broadly put that the change of the monsoon in the Bay of Bengal is + beastliness unadulterated, and the south-west monsoon itself, though a + fair wind for getting to your destination, is worse, if possible. Still, + having got that far, you are able to judge pretty nearly when, in the + ordinary course of events, you will arrive at Saugor, and get a tug for + the rest of the journey. + </p> + <p> + But on this strange voyage I was quite as much in the dark concerning our + approximate position as any of the chaps who had never seen salt water + before they viewed it from the bad eminence of the CACHALOT's deck. Of + course, it was evident that we were bound eastward, but whether to the + Indian seas or to the South Pacific, none knew but the skipper, and + perhaps the mate. I say "perhaps" advisedly. In any well-regulated + merchant ship there is an invariable routine of observations performed by + both captain and chief officer, except in very big vessels, where the + second mate is appointed navigating officer. The two men work out their + reckoning independently of each other, and compare the result, so that an + excellent check upon the accuracy of the positions found is thereby + afforded. Here, however, there might not have been, as far as appearances + went, a navigator in the ship except the captain, if it be not a misuse of + terms to call him a navigator. If the test be ability to take a ship round + the world, poking into every undescribed, out-of-the-way corner you can + think of, and return home again without damage to the ship of any kind + except by the unavoidable perils of the sea, then doubtless he WAS a + navigator, and a ripe, good one. But anything cruder than the + "rule-of-thumb" way in which he found his positions, or more out of date + than his "hog-yoke," or quadrant, I have never seen. I suppose we carried + a chronometer, though I never saw it or heard the cry of "stop," which + usually accompanies a.m. or p.m. "sights" taken for longitude. He used + sometimes to make a deliberate sort of haste below after taking a sight, + when he may have been looking at a chronometer perhaps. What I do know + about his procedure is, that he always used a very rough method of equal + altitudes, which would make a mathematician stare and gasp; that his + nautical almanac was a ten-cent one published by some speculative optician + is New York; that he never worked up a "dead reckoning;" and that the + extreme limit of time that he took to work out his observations was ten + minutes. In fact, all our operations in seamanship or navigation were run + on the same happy-go-lucky principle. If it was required to "tack" ship, + there was no formal parade and preparation for the manoeuvre, not even as + much as would be made in a Goole billy-boy. Without any previous + intimation, the helm would be put down, and round she would come, the + yards being trimmed by whoever happened to be nearest to the braces. The + old tub seemed to like it that way, for she never missed stays or + exhibited any of that unwillingness to do what she was required that is + such a frequent characteristic of merchantmen. Even getting under way or + coming to an anchor was unattended by any of the fuss and bother from + which those important evolutions ordinarily appear inseparable. + </p> + <p> + To my great relief we saw no more whales of the kind we were after during + our passage round the Cape. The weather we were having was splendid for + making a passage, but to be dodging about among those immense rollers, or + towed athwart them by a wounded whale in so small a craft as one of our + whale-boats, did not have any attractions for me. There was little doubt + in any of our minds that, if whales were seen, off we must go while + daylight lasted, let the weather be what it might. So when one morning I + went to the wheel, to find the course N.N.E. instead of E. by N., it may + be taken for granted that the change was a considerable relief to me. It + was now manifest that we were bound up into the Indian Ocean, although of + course I knew nothing of the position of the districts where whales were + to be looked for. Gradually we crept northward, the weather improving + every day as we left the "roaring forties" astern. While thus making + northing we had several fine catches of porpoises, and saw many rorquals, + but sperm whales appeared to have left the locality. However, the "old + man" evidently knew what he was about, as we were not now cruising, but + making a direct passage for some definite place. + </p> + <p> + At last we sighted land, which, from the course which we had been + steering, might have been somewhere on the east coast of Africa, but for + the fact that it was right ahead, while we were pointing at the time about + N.N.W. By-and-by I came to the conclusion that it must be the southern + extremity of Madagascar, Cape St. Mary, and, by dint of the closest, + attention to every word I heard uttered while at the wheel by the + officers, found that my surmise was correct. We skirted this point pretty + closely, heading to the westward, and, when well clear of it, bore up to + the northward, again for the Mozambique Channel. Another surprise. The + very idea of WHALING in the Mozambique Channel seemed too ridiculous to + mention; yet here we were, guided by a commander who, whatever his faults, + was certainly most keen in his attention to business, and the unlikeliest + man imaginable to take the ship anywhere unless he anticipated a + profitable return for his visit. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER X. A VISIT TO SOME STRANGE PLACES + </h2> + <p> + We had now entered upon what promised to be the most interesting part of + our voyage. As a commercial speculation, I have to admit that the voyage + was to me a matter of absolute indifference. Never, from the first week of + my being on board, had I cherished any illusions upon that score, for it + was most forcibly impressed on my mind that, whatever might be the measure + of success attending our operations, no one of the crew forward could hope + to benefit by it. The share of profits was so small, and the time taken to + earn it so long, such a number of clothes were worn out and destroyed by + us, only to be replaced from the ship's slop-chest at high prices, that I + had quite resigned myself to the prospect of leaving the vessel in debt, + whenever that desirable event might happen. Since, therefore, I had never + made it a practice to repine at the inevitable, and make myself unhappy by + the contemplation of misfortunes I was powerless to prevent, I tried to + interest myself as far as was possible in gathering information, although + at that time I had no idea, beyond a general thirst for knowledge, that + what I was now learning would ever be of any service to me. Yet I had been + dull indeed not to have seen how unique were the opportunities I was now + enjoying for observation of some of the least known and understood aspects + of the ocean world and its wonderful inhabitants, to say nothing of visits + to places unvisited, except by such free lances as we were, and about + which so little is really known. + </p> + <p> + The weather of the Mozambique Channel was fairly good, although subject to + electric storms of the most terrible aspect, but perfectly harmless. On + the second evening after rounding Cape St. Mary, we were proceeding, as + usual, under very scanty sail, rather enjoying the mild, balmy air, + scent-laden, from Madagascar. The moon was shining in tropical splendour, + paling the lustre of the attendant stars, and making the glorious Milky + Way but a faint shadow of its usual resplendent road. Gradually from the + westward there arose a murky mass of cloud, fringed at its upper edges + with curious tinted tufts of violet, orange, and crimson. These colours + were not brilliant, but plainly visible against the deep blue sky. Slowly + and solemnly the intruding gloom overspread the sweet splendour of the + shining sky, creeping like a death-shadow over a dear face, and making the + most talkative feel strangely quiet and ill at ease. As the pall of thick + darkness blotted out the cool light, it seemed to descend until at last we + were completely over-canopied by a dome of velvety black, seemingly low + enough to touch the mast-heads. A belated sea-bird's shrill scream but + emphasized the deep silence which lent itself befittingly to the solemnity + of nature. Presently thin suggestions of light, variously tinted, began to + thread the inky mass. These grew brighter and more vivid, until at last, + in fantastic contortions, they appeared to rend the swart concave asunder, + revealing through the jagged clefts a lurid waste of the most intensely + glowing fire. The coming and going of these amazing brightnesses, combined + with the Egyptian dark between, was completely blinding. So loaded was the + still air with electricity that from every point aloft pale flames + streamed upward, giving the ship the appearance of a huge candelabrum with + innumerable branches. One of the hands, who had been ordered aloft on some + errand of securing a loose end, presented a curious sight. He was + bareheaded, and from his hair the all pervading fluid arose, lighting up + his features, which were ghastly beyond description. When he lifted his + hand, each separate finger became at once an additional point from which + light streamed. There was no thunder, but a low hissing and a crackling + which did not amount to noise, although distinctly audible to all. + Sensations most unpleasant of pricking and general irritation were felt by + every one, according to their degree of susceptibility. + </p> + <p> + After about an hour of this state of things, a low moaning of thunder was + heard, immediately followed by a few drops of rain large as dollars. The + mutterings and grumblings increased until, with one peal that made the + ship tremble as though she had just struck a rock at full speed, down came + the rain. The windows of heaven were opened, and no man might stand + against the steaming flood that descended by thousands of tons per minute. + How long it continued, I cannot say; probably, in its utmost fierceness, + not more than half an hour. Then it slowly abated, clearing away as it did + so the accumulation of gloom overhead, until, before midnight had struck, + all the heavenly host were shedding their beautiful brilliancy upon us + again with apparently increased glory, while the freshness and + invigorating feel of the air was inexpressibly delightful. + </p> + <p> + We did not court danger by hugging too closely any of the ugly reefs and + banks that abound in this notably difficult strait, but gave them all a + respectfully wide berth. It was a feature of our navigation that, unless + we had occasion to go near any island or reef for fishing or landing + purposes, we always kept a safe margin of distance away, which probably + accounts for our continued immunity from accident while in tortuous + waters. Our anchors and cables were, however, always kept ready for use + now, in case of an unsuspected current or sudden storm; but beyond that + precaution, I could see little or no difference in the manner of our + primitive navigation. + </p> + <p> + We met with no "luck" for some time, and the faces of the harpooners grew + daily longer, the great heat of those sultry waters trying all tempers + sorely. But Captain Slocum knew his business, and his scowling, impassive + face showed no signs of disappointment, or indeed any other emotion, as + day by day we crept farther north. At last we sighted the stupendous peak + of Comoro mountain, which towers to nearly nine thousand feet from the + little island which gives its name to the Comoro group of four. On that + same day a school of medium-sized sperm whales were sighted, which + appeared to be almost of a different race to those with which we had + hitherto had dealings. They were exceedingly fat and lazy, moving with the + greatest deliberation, and, when we rushed in among them, appeared utterly + bewildered and panic-stricken, knowing not which way to flee. Like a flock + of frightened sheep they huddled together, aimlessly wallowing in each + other's way, while we harpooned them with the greatest ease and impunity. + Even the "old man" himself lowered the fifth boat, leaving the ship to the + carpenter, cooper, cook, and steward, and coming on the scene as if + determined to make a field-day of the occasion. He was no "slouch" at the + business either. Not that there was much occasion or opportunity to + exhibit any prowess. The record of the day's proceedings would be as tame + as to read of a day's work in a slaughter-house. Suffice it to say, that + we actually killed six whales, none of whom were less than fifty barrels, + no boat ran out more than one hundred fathoms of line, neither was a + bomb-lance used. Not the slightest casualty occurred to any of the boats, + and the whole work of destruction was over in less than four hours. + </p> + <p> + Then came the trouble. The fish were, of course somewhat widely separated + when they died, and the task of collecting all those immense carcasses was + one of no ordinary magnitude. Had it not been for the wonderfully skilful + handling of the ship, the task would, I should think, have been + impossible, but the way in which she was worked compelled the admiration + of anybody who knew what handling a ship meant. Still, with all the + ability manifested, it was five hours after the last whale died before we + had gathered them all alongside, bringing us to four o'clock in the + afternoon. + </p> + <p> + A complete day under that fierce blaze of the tropical sun, without other + refreshment than an occasional furtive drink of tepid water, had reduced + us to a pitiable condition of weakness, so much so that the skipper judged + it prudent, as soon as the fluke-chains were passed, to give us a couple + of hours' rest. As soon as the sun had set we were all turned to again, + three cressets were prepared, and by their blaze we toiled the whole night + through. Truth compels me to state, though, that none of us foremast hands + had nearly such heavy work as the officers on the stage. What they had to + do demanded special knowledge and skill; but it was also terribly hard + work, constant and unremitting, while we at the windlass had many a short + spell between the lifting of the pieces. Even the skipper took a hand, for + the first time, and right manfully did he do his share. + </p> + <p> + By the first streak of dawn, three of the whales had been stripped of + their blubber, and five heads were bobbing astern at the ends of as many + hawsers. The sea all round presented a wonderful sight. There must have + been thousands of sharks gathered to the feast, and their incessant + incursions through the phosphorescent water wove a dazzling network of + brilliant tracks which made the eyes ache to look upon. A short halt was + called for breakfast, which was greatly needed, and, thanks to the cook, + was a thoroughly good one. He—blessings on him!—had been busy + fishing, as we drifted slowly, with savoury pieces of whale-beef for bait, + and the result was a mess of fish which would have gladdened the heart of + an epicure. Our hunger appeased, it was "turn to" again, for there was now + no time to be lost. The fierce heat soon acts upon the carcass of a dead + whale, generating an immense volume of gas within it, which, in a + wonderfully short space of time, turns the flesh putrid and renders the + blubber so rotten that it cannot be lifted, nor, if it could, would it be + of any value. So it was no wonder that our haste was great, or that the + august arbiter of our destinies himself condescended to take his place + among the toilers. By nightfall the whole of our catch was on board, + excepting such toll as the hungry hordes of sharks had levied upon it in + transit. A goodly number of them had paid the penalty of their rapacity + with their lives, for often one would wriggle his way right up on to the + reeking carcass, and, seizing a huge fragment of blubber, strive with + might and main to tear it away. Then the lethal spade would drop upon his + soft crown, cleaving it to the jaws, and with one flap of his big tail he + would loose his grip, roll over and over, and sink, surrounded by a + writhing crowd of his fellows, by whom he was speedily reduced into + digestible fragments. + </p> + <p> + The condition of the CACHALOT's deck was now somewhat akin to chaos. From + the cabin door to the tryworks there was hardly an inch of available + space, and the oozing oil kept some of us continually baling it up, lest + it should leak out through the interstices in the bulwarks. In order to + avoid a breakdown, it became necessary to divide the crew into six-hour + watches, as although the work was exceedingly urgent on account of the + weather, there were evident signs that some of the crew were perilously + near giving in. So we got rest none too soon, and the good effects of it + were soon apparent. The work went on with much more celerity than one + would have thought possible, and soon the lumbered-up decks began to + resume their normal appearance. + </p> + <p> + As if to exasperate the "old man" beyond measure on the third day of our + operations a great school of sperm whales appeared, disporting all around + the ship, apparently conscious of our helplessness to interfere with them. + Notwithstanding our extraordinary haul, Captain Slocum went black with + impotent rage, and, after glowering at the sportive monsters, beat a + retreat below, unable to bear the sight any longer. During his absence we + had a rare treat. The whole school surrounded the ship, and performed some + of the strangest evolutions imaginable. As if instigated by one common + impulse, they all elevated their massive heads above the surface of the + sea, and remained for some time in that position, solemnly bobbing up and + down amid the glittering wavelets like movable boulders of black rock. + Then, all suddenly reversed themselves, and, elevating their broad flukes + in the air, commenced to beat them slowly and rhythmically upon the water, + like so many machines. Being almost a perfect calm, every movement of the + great mammals could be plainly seen; some of them even passed so near to + us that we could see how the lower jaw hung down, while the animal was + swimming in a normal position. + </p> + <p> + For over an hour they thus paraded around us, and then, as if startled by + some hidden danger, suddenly headed off to the westward, and in a few + minutes were out of our sight. + </p> + <p> + We cruised in the vicinity of the Comoro Islands for two months, never + quite out of sight of the mountain while the weather was clear. During the + whole of that time we were never clear of oil on deck, one catch always + succeeding another before there had been time to get cleared up. Eight + hundred barrels of oil were added to our cargo, making the undisciplined + hearts of all to whom whaling was a novel employment beat high with hopes + of a speedy completion of the cargo, and consequent return. Poor innocents + that we were! How could we know any better? According to Goliath, with + whom I often had a friendly chat, this was quite out of the ordinary run + to have such luck in the "Channel." + </p> + <p> + "'Way back in de dark ages, w'en de whaleships war de pi'neers ob + commerce, 'n day wan't no worryin', poofity-plukity steamboats a-poundin' + along, 'nough ter galley ebery whale clean eout ob dere skin, dey war + plenty whaleships fill up in twelve, fifteen, twenty monf' after leabin' + home. 'N er man bed his pick er places, too—didn' hab ter go moseyin + erroun' like some ol' hobo lookin' fer day's work, 'n prayin' de good Lord + not ter let um fine it. No, sah; roun yer China Sea, coas' Japan, on de + line, off shore, Vasquez, 'mong de islan's, ohmos' anywhar, you couldn' + hardly git way from 'em. Neow, I clar ter glory I kaint imagine WAR dey + all gone ter, dough we bin eout only six seven monf' 'n got over tousan + bar'l below. But I bin two year on er voy'ge and doan hardly SEE a sparm + while, much less catch one. But"—and here he whispered mysteriously—"dish + yer ole man's de bery debbil's own chile, 'n his farder lookin' after him + well—dat's my 'pinion. Only yew keep yer head tight shut, an' nebber + say er word, but keep er lookin', 'n sure's death you'll see." This + conversation made a deep and lasting impression upon me, for I had not + before heard even so much as a murmur from an officer against the tyranny + of the skipper. Some of the harpooners were fluent enough, too. + </p> + <p> + Yet I had often thought that his treatment of them, considering the + strenuous nature of their toil, and the willingness with which they worked + as long as they had an ounce of energy left, was worth at least a little + kindness and courtesy on his part. + </p> + <p> + What the period may have been during which whales were plentiful here, I + do not know, but it was now May, and for the last few days we had not seen + a solitary spout of any kind. Preparations, very slight it is true, were + made for departure; but before we left those parts we made an interesting + call for water at Mohilla, one of the Comoro group, which brought out, in + unmistakable fashion, the wonderful fund of local knowledge possessed by + these men. At the larger ports of Johanna and Mayotte there is a regular + tariff of port charges, which are somewhat heavy, and no whaleman would be + so reckless as to incur these unless driven thereto by the necessity of + obtaining provisions; otherwise, the islands offer great inducements to + whaling captains to call, since none but men hopelessly mad would venture + to desert in such places. That qualification is the chief one for any port + to possess in the eyes of a whaling captain. + </p> + <p> + Our skipper, however, saw no necessity for entering any port. Running up + under the lee of Mohilla, we followed the land along until we came to a + tiny bight on the western side of the island, an insignificant inlet which + no mariner in charge of a vessel like ours could be expected even to + notice, unless he were surveying. The approaches to this tiny harbour + (save the mark) were very forbidding. Ugly-looking rocks showed up here + and there, the surf over them frequently blinding the whole entry. But we + came along, in our usual leisurely fashion, under two topsails, spanker, + and fore-topmast staysail, and took that ugly passage like a sailing barge + entering the Medway. There was barely room to turn round when we got + inside, but all sail had been taken off her except the spanker, so that + her way was almost stopped by the time she was fairly within the harbour. + Down went the anchor, and she was fast—anchored for the first time + since leaving New Bedford seven months before. Here we were shut out + entirely from the outer world, for I doubt greatly whether even a passing + dhow could have seen us from seaward. We were not here for rest, however, + but wood and water; so while one party was supplied with well-sharpened + axes, and sent on shore to cut down such small trees as would serve our + turn, another party was busily employed getting out a number of big casks + for the serious business of watering. The cooper knocked off the second or + quarter hoops from each of these casks, and drove them on again with two + "beckets" or loops of rope firmly jammed under each of them in such a + manner that the loops were in line with each other on each side of the + bunghole. They were then lowered overboard, and a long rope rove through + all the beckets. When this was done, the whole number of casks floated end + to end, upright and secure. We towed them ashore to where, by the + skipper's directions, at about fifty yards from high-water mark, a spring + of beautiful water bubbled out of the side of a mass of rock, losing + itself in a deep crevice below. Lovely ferns, rare orchids, and trailing + plants of many kinds surrounded this fairy-like spot in the wildest + profusion, making a tangle of greenery that we had considerable trouble to + clear away. Having done so, we led a long canvas hose from the spot whence + the water flowed down to the shore where the casks floated. The chief + officer, with great ingenuity, rigged up an arrangement whereby the hose, + which had a square month about a foot wide, was held up to the rock, + saving us the labour of bailing and filling by hand. So we were able to + rest and admire at our ease the wonderful variety of beautiful plants + which grew here so lavishly, unseen by mortal eye from one year's end to + another. I have somewhere read that the Creator has delight in the + beautiful work of His will, wherever it may be; and that while our egotism + wonders at the waste of beauty, as we call it, there is no waste at all, + since the Infinite Intelligence can dwell with complacency upon the + glories of His handiwork, perfectly fulfilling their appointed ends. + </p> + <p> + All too soon the pleasant occupation came to an end. The long row of + casks, filled to the brim and tightly bunged, were towed off by us to the + ship, and ranged alongside. A tackle and pair of "can-hooks" was + overhauled to the water and hooked to a cask. "Hoist away!" And as the + cask rose, the beckets that had held it to the mother-rope were cut, + setting it quite free to come on board, but leaving all the others still + secure. In this way we took in several thousand gallons of water in a few + hours, with a small expenditure of labour, free of cost; whereas, had we + gone into Mayotte or Johanna, the water would have been bad, the price + high, the labour great, with the chances of a bad visitation of fever in + the bargain. + </p> + <p> + The woodmen had a much more arduous task. The only wood they could find, + without cutting down big trees, which would have involved far too much + labour in cutting up, was a kind of iron-wood, which, besides being very + heavy, was so hard as to take pieces clean out of their axe-edges, when a + blow was struck directly across the grain. As none of them were experts, + the condition of their tools soon made their work very hard. But that they + had taken several axes in reserve, it is doubtful whether they would have + been able to get sufficient fuel for our purpose. When they pitched the + wood off the rocks into the harbour, it sank immediately, giving them a + great deal of trouble to fish it up again. Neither could they raft it as + intended, but were compelled to load it into the boats and make several + journeys to and fro before all they had cut was shipped. Altogether, I was + glad that the wooding had not fallen to my share. On board the ship + fishing had been going on steadily most of the day by a few hands told off + for the purpose. The result of their sport was splendid, over two + hundred-weight of fine fish of various sorts, but all eatable, having been + gathered in. + </p> + <p> + We lay snugly anchored all night, keeping a bright look-out for any + unwelcome visitors either from land or sea, for the natives are not to be + trusted, neither do the Arab mongrels who cruise about those waters in + their dhows bear any too good a reputation. We saw none, however, and at + daylight we weighed and towed the ship out to sea with the boats, there + being no wind. While busy at this uninteresting pastime, one of the boats + slipped away, returning presently with a fine turtle, which they had + surprised during his morning's nap. One of the amphibious Portuguese + slipped over the boat's side as she neared the sleeping SPHARGA, and, + diving deep, came up underneath him, seizing with crossed hands the two + hind flippers, and, with a sudden, dexterous twist, turned the astonished + creature over on his back. Thus rendered helpless, the turtle lay on the + surface feebly waving his flippers, while his captor, gently treading + water, held him in that position till the boat reached the pair and took + them on board. It was a clever feat, neatly executed, as unlike the clumsy + efforts I had before seen made with the same object as anything could + possibly be. + </p> + <p> + After an hour's tow, we had got a good offing, and a light air springing + up, we returned on board, hoisted the boats, and made sail to the + northward again. + </p> + <p> + With the exception of the numerous native dhows that crept lazily about, + we saw no vessels as we gradually drew out of the Mozambique Channel and + stood away towards the Line. The part of the Indian Ocean in which we now + found ourselves is much dreaded by merchantmen, who give it a wide berth + on account of the numerous banks, islets, and dangerous currents with + which it abounds. We, however, seemed quite at home here, pursuing the + even tenor of our usual way without any special precautions being taken. A + bright look-out, we always kept, of course—none of your drowsy + lolling about such as is all too common on the "fo'lk'sle head" of many a + fine ship, when, with lights half trimmed or not shown at all, she is + ploughing along blindly at twelve knots or so an hour. No; while we were + under way during daylight, four pairs of keen eyes kept incessant vigil a + hundred feet above the deck, noting everything, even to a shoal of small + fish, that crossed within the range of vision. At night we scarcely moved, + but still a vigilant lookout was always kept both fore and aft, so that it + would have been difficult for us to drift upon a reef unknowingly. + </p> + <p> + Creeping steadily northward, we passed the Cosmoledo group of atolls + without paying them a visit, which was strange, as, from their appearance, + no better fishing-ground would be likely to come in our way. They are + little known, except to the wandering fishermen from Reunion and + Rodriguez, who roam about these islets and reefs, seeking anything that + may be turned into coin, from wrecks to turtle, and in nowise particular + as to rights of ownership. When between the Cosmoledos and Astove, the + next island to the northward, we sighted a "solitary" cachalot one morning + just as the day dawned. It was the first for some time—nearly three + weeks—and being all well seasoned to the work now, we obeyed the + call to arms with great alacrity. Our friend was making a passage, turning + neither to the right hand nor the left as he went. His risings and number + of spouts while up, as well as the time he remained below, were as regular + as the progress of a clock, and could be counted upon with quite as much + certainty. + </p> + <p> + Bearing in mind, I suppose, the general character of the whales we had + recently met with, only two boats were lowered to attack the new-comer, + who, all unconscious of our coming, pursued his leisurely course + unheeding. + </p> + <p> + We got a good weather gage of him, and came flying on as usual getting two + irons planted in fine style. But a surprise awaited us. As we sheered up + into the wind away from him, Louis shouted, "Fightin' whale, sir; look out + for de rush!" Look out, indeed? Small use in looking out when, hampered as + we always were at first with the unshipping of the mast, we could do next + to nothing to avoid him. Without any of the desperate flounderings + generally indulged in on first feeling the iron, he turned upon us, and + had it not been that he caught sight of the second mate's boat, which had + just arrived, and turned his attentions to her, there would have been + scant chance of any escape for us. Leaping half out of water, he made + direct for our comrades with a vigour and ferocity marvellous to see, + making it a no easy matter for them to avoid his tremendous rush. Our + actions, at no time slow, were considerably hastened by this display of + valour, so that before he could turn his attentions in our direction we + were ready for him. Then ensued a really big fight, the first, in fact, of + my experience, for none of the other whales had shown any serious + determination to do us an injury, but had devoted all their energies to + attempts at escape. So quick were the evolutions, and so savage the + appearance of this fellow, that even our veteran mate looked anxious as to + the possible result. Without attempting to "sound," the furious monster + kept mostly below the surface; but whenever he rose, it was either to + deliver a fearful blow with his tail, or, with jaws widespread, to try and + bite one of our boats in half. Well was it for us that he was severely + handicapped by a malformation of the lower jaw. At a short distance from + the throat it turned off nearly at right angles to his body, the part that + thus protruded sideways being deeply fringed with barnacles, and plated + with big limpets. + </p> + <p> + Had it not been for this impediment, I verily believe he would have beaten + us altogether. As it was, he worked us nearly to death with his ugly + rushes. Once he delivered a sidelong blow with his tail, which, as we spun + round, shore off the two oars on that side as if they had been carrots. At + last the second mate got fast to him, and then the character of the game + changed again. Apparently unwearied by his previous exertions, he now + started off to windward at top speed, with the two boats sheering broadly + out upon either side of his foaming wake. Doubtless because he himself was + much fatigued, the mate allowed him to run at his will, without for the + time attempting to haul any closer to him, and very grateful the short + rest was to us. But he had not gone a couple of miles before he turned a + complete somersault in the water, coming up BEHIND us to rush off again in + the opposite direction at undiminished speed. This move was a startler. + For the moment it seemed as if both boats would be smashed like egg-shells + against each other, or else that some of us would be impaled upon the long + lances with which each boat's bow bristled. By what looked like a + handbreadth, we cleared each other, and the race continued. Up till now we + had not succeeded in getting home a single lance, the foe was becoming + warier, while the strain was certainly telling upon our nerves. So Mr. + Count got out his bomb-gun, shouting at the same time to Mr. Cruce to do + the same. They both hated these weapons, nor ever used them if they could + help it; but what was to be done? + </p> + <p> + Our chief had hardly got his gun ready, before we came to almost a dead + stop. All was silent for just a moment; then, with a roar like a cataract, + up sprang the huge creature, head out, jaw wide open, coming direct for + us. As coolly as if on the quarter-deck, the mate raised his gun, firing + the bomb directly down the great livid cavern of a throat fronting him. + Down went that mountainous head not six inches from us, but with a + perfectly indescribable motion, a tremendous writhe, in fact; up flew the + broad tail in air, and a blow which might have sufficed to stave in the + side of the ship struck the second mate's boat fairly amidships. It was + right before my eyes, not sixty feet away, and the sight will haunt me to + my death. The tub oarsman was the poor German baker, about whom I have + hitherto said nothing, except to note that he was one of the crew. That + awful blow put an end summarily to all his earthly anxieties. As it shore + obliquely through the centre of the boat, it drove his poor body right + through her timbers—an undistinguishable bundle of what was an + instant before a human being. The other members of the crew escaped the + blow, and the harpooner managed to cut the line, so that for the present + they were safe enough, clinging to the remains of their boat, unless the + whale should choose to rush across them. + </p> + <p> + Happily, his rushing was almost over. The bomb fired by Mr. Count, with + such fatal result to poor Bamberger, must have exploded right in the + whale's throat. Whether his previous titanic efforts had completely + exhausted him, or whether the bomb had broken his massive backbone, I do + not know, of course, but he went into no flurry, dying as peacefully as + his course had been furious. For the first time in my life, I had been + face to face with a violent death, and I was quite stunned with the + awfulness of the experience. Mechanically, as it seemed to me, we obeyed + such orders as were given, but every man's thoughts were with the shipmate + so suddenly dashed from amongst us. We never saw sign of him again. + </p> + <p> + While the ship was running down to us, another boat had gone to rescue the + clinging crew of the shattered boat, for the whole drama had been + witnessed from the ship, although they were not aware of the death of the + poor German. When the sad news was told on board, there was a deep + silence, all work being carried on so quietly that we seemed like a crew + of dumb men. With a sentiment for which I should not have given our grim + skipper credit, the stars and stripes were hoisted half-mast, telling the + silent sky and moaning sea, sole witnesses besides ourselves, of the + sudden departure from among us of our poor shipmate. We got the whale cut + in as usual without any incident worth mentioning, except that the + peculiar shape of the jaw made it an object of great curiosity to all of + us who were new to the whale-fishing. Such malformations are not very + rare. They are generally thought to occur when the animal is young, and + its bones soft; but whether done in fighting with one another, or in some + more mysterious way, nobody knows. Cases have been known, I believe, where + the deformed whale does not appear to have suffered from lack of food in + consequence of his disability; but in each of the three instances which + have come under my own notice, such was certainly not the case. These + whales were what is termed by the whalers "dry-skins;" that is, they were + in poor condition, the blubber yielding less than half the usual quantity + of oil. The absence of oil makes it very hard to cut up, and there is more + work in one whale of this kind than in two whose blubber is rich and soft. + Another thing which I have also noticed is, that these whales were much + more difficult to tackle than others, for each of them gave us something + special to remember them by. But I must not get ahead of my yarn. + </p> + <p> + The end of the week brought us up to the Aldabra Islands, one of the + puzzles of the world. For here, in these tiny pieces of earth, surrounded + by thousands of miles of sea, the nearest land a group of islets like unto + them, is found the gigantic tortoise, and in only one other place in the + wide world, the Galapagos group of islands in the South Pacific. How, or + by what strange freak of Dame Nature these curious reptiles, sole + survivals of another age, should come to be found in this lonely spot, is + a deep mystery, and one not likely to be unfolded now. At any rate, there + they are, looking as if some of them might be coeval with Noah, so + venerable and storm-beaten do they appear. + </p> + <p> + We made the island early on a Sunday morning, and, with the usual + celerity, worked the vessel into the fine harbour, called, from one of the + exploring ships, Euphrates Bay or Harbour. The anchor down, and everything + made snug below and aloft, we were actually allowed a run ashore free from + restraint. I could hardly believe my ears. We had got so accustomed to our + slavery that liberty was become a mere name; we hardly knew what to do + with it when we got it. However, we soon got used (in a very limited + sense) to being our own masters, and, each following the bent of his + inclinations, set out for a ramble. My companion and I had not gone far, + when we thought we saw one of the boulders, with which the island was + liberally besprinkled, on the move. Running up to examine it with all the + eagerness of children let out of school, we found it to be one of the + inhabitants, a monstrous tortoise. I had some big turtle around the cays + of the Gulf of Mexico, but this creature dwarfed them all. We had no means + of actually measuring him, and had to keep clear of his formidable-looking + jaws, but roughly, and within the mark, he was four feet long by two feet + six inches wide. Of course he was much more dome-shaped than the turtle + are, and consequently looked a great deal bigger than a turtle of the same + measurement would, besides being much thicker through. As he was loth to + stay with us, we made up our minds to go with him, for he was evidently + making for some definite spot, by the tracks he was following, which + showed plainly how many years that same road had been used. Well, I + mounted on his back, keeping well astern, out of the reach of that + serious-looking head, which having rather a long neck, looked as if it + might be able to reach round and take a piece out of a fellow without any + trouble. He was perfectly amicable, continuing his journey as if nothing + had happened, and really getting over the ground at a good rate, + considering the bulk and shape of him. Except for the novelty of the + thing, this sort of ride had nothing to recommend it; so I soon tired of + it, and let him waddle along in peace. By following the tracks aforesaid, + we arrived at a fine stream of water sparkling out of a hillside, and + running down a little ravine. The sides of this gully were worn quite + smooth by the innumerable feet of the tortoises, about a dozen of which + were now quietly crouching at the water's edge, filling themselves up with + the cooling fluid. I did not see the patriarch upon whom a sailor once + reported that he had read the legend carved, "The Ark, Captain Noah, + Ararat for orders"; perhaps he had at last closed his peaceful career. But + strange, and quaint as this exhibition of ancient reptiles was, we had + other and better employment for the limited time at our disposal. There + were innumerable curious things to see, and, unless we were to run the + risk of going on board again and stopping there, dinner must be obtained. + Eggs of various kinds were exceedingly plentiful; in many places the flats + were almost impassable for sitting birds, mostly "boobies." + </p> + <p> + But previous experience of boobies' eggs in other places had not disposed + me to seek them where others were to be obtained, and as I had seen many + of the well-known frigate or man-o'-war birds hovering about, we set out + to the other side of the island in search of the breeding-place. + </p> + <p> + These peculiar birds are, I think, misnamed. They should be called pirate + or buccaneer birds, from their marauding habits. Seldom or never do they + condescend to fish for themselves, preferring to hover high in the blue, + their tails opening and closing like a pair of scissors as they hang + poised above the sea. Presently booby—like some honest housewife who + has been a-marketing—comes flapping noisily home, her maw laden with + fish for the chicks. Down comes the black watcher from above with a swoop + like an eagle. Booby puts all she knows into her flight, but vainly; + escape is impossible, so with a despairing shriek she drops her load. + Before it has touched the water the graceful thief has intercepted it, and + soared slowly aloft again, to repeat the performance as occasion serves. + </p> + <p> + When we arrived on the outer shore of the island, we found a large + breeding-place of these birds, but totally different to the haunt of the + boobies. The nests, if they might be so called, being at best a few twigs, + were mostly in the hollows of the rocks, the number of eggs being two to a + nest, on an average. The eggs were nearly as large as a turkey's. But I am + reminded of the range of size among turkeys' eggs, so I must say they were + considerably larger than a small turkey's egg. Their flavour was most + delicate, as much so as the eggs of a moor-fed fowl. We saw no birds + sitting, but here and there the gaunt skeleton forms of birds, who by + reason of sickness or old age were unable to provide for themselves, and + so sat waiting for death, appealed most mournfully to us. We went up to + some of these poor creatures, and ended their long agony; but there were + many of them that we were obliged to leave to Nature. + </p> + <p> + We saw no animals larger than a rat, but there were a great many of those + eerie-looking land-crabs, that seemed as if almost humanly intelligent as + they scampered about over the sand or through the undergrowth, busy about + goodness knows what. The beautiful cocoa-nut palm was plentiful, so much + so that I wondered why there were no settlers to collect "copra," or dried + cocoa-nut, for oil. My West Indian experience came in handy now, for I was + able to climb a lofty tree in native fashion, and cut down a grand bunch + of green nuts, which form one of the most refreshing and nutritious of + foods, as well as a cool and delicious drink. We had no line with us, so + we took off our belts, which, securely joined together, answered my + purpose very well. With them I made a loop round the tree and myself; then + as I climbed I pushed the loop up with me, so that whenever I wanted a + rest, I had only to lean back in it, keeping my knees against the trunk, + and I was almost as comfortable as if on the ground. + </p> + <p> + After getting the nuts, we made a fire and roasted some of our eggs, + which, with a biscuit or two, made a delightful meal. Then we fell asleep + under a shady tree, upon some soft moss; nor did we wake again until + nearly time to go on board. A most enjoyable swim terminated our day's + outing, and we returned to the beach abreast of the ship very pleased with + the excursion. + </p> + <p> + We had no adventures, found no hidden treasure or ferocious animals, but + none the less we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. While we sat waiting for + the boat to come and fetch us off, we saw a couple of good-sized turtle + come ashore quite close to us. We kept perfectly still until we were sure + of being able to intercept them. As soon as they had got far enough away + from their native element, we rushed upon them, and captured them both, so + that when the boat arrived we were not empty-handed. We had also a + "jumper," or blouse, full of eggs, and a couple of immense bunches of + cocoa-nuts. When we got on board we felt quite happy, and, for the first + time since leaving America, we had a little singing. Shall I be laughed at + when I confess that our musical efforts were confined to Sankey's hymns? + Maybe, but I do not care. Cheap and clap-trap as the music may be, it + tasted "real good," as Abner said, and I am quite sure that that Sunday + night was the best that any of us had spent for a very long time. + </p> + <p> + A long, sound sleep was terminated at dawn, when we weighed and stood out + through a narrow passage by East Island, which was quite covered with fine + trees—of what kind I do not know, but they presented a beautiful + sight. Myriads of birds hovered about, busy fishing from the countless + schools that rippled the placid sea. Beneath us, at twenty fathoms, the + wonderful architecture of the coral was plainly visible through the + brilliantly-clear sea, while, wherever the tiny builders had raised their + fairy domain near the surface, an occasional roller would crown it with a + snowy garland of foam—a dazzling patch of white against the sapphire + sea. Altogether, such a panorama was spread out at our feet, as we stood + gazing from the lofty crow's-nest, as was worth a year or two of city life + to witness. I could not help pitying my companion, one of the Portuguese + harpooners, who stolidly munched his quid with no eyes for any of these + glorious pictures, no thought of anything but a possible whale in sight. + </p> + <p> + My silent rhapsodies were rudely interrupted by something far away on the + horizon. Hardly daring to breathe, I strained my eyes, and—yes, it + was—"Ah blow-w-w-w!" I bellowed at the top of my lung-power, never + before had I had the opportunity of thus distinguishing myself, and I felt + a bit sore about it. + </p> + <p> + There was a little obliquity about the direction of the spout that made me + hopeful, for the cachalot alone sends his spout diagonally upward, all the + others spout vertically. It was but a school of kogia, or "short-headed" + cachalots; but as we secured five of them, averaging seven barrels each, + with scarcely any trouble, I felt quite pleased with myself. We had quite + an exciting bit of sport with them, they were so lively; but as for danger—well, + they only seemed like big "black fish" to us now, and we quite enjoyed the + fun. They were, in all respects, miniature sperm whales, except that the + head was much shorter and smaller in proportion to the body than their big + relations. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XI. ROUND THE COCOS AND SEYCHELLES + </h2> + <p> + Hitherto, with the exception of a couple of gales in the North and South + Atlantic, we had been singularly fortunate in our weather. It does happen + so sometimes. + </p> + <p> + I remember once making a round voyage from Cardiff to Hong Kong and the + Philippines, back to London, in ten months, and during the whole of that + time we did not have a downright gale. The worst weather we encountered + was between Beachy Head and Portland, going round from London to Cardiff. + </p> + <p> + And I once spoke the barque LUTTERWORTH, a companion ship to us from + Portland, Oregon to Falmouth, whose mate informed me that they carried + their royals from port to port without ever furling them once, except to + shift the suit of sails. But now a change was evidently imminent. Of + course, we forward had no access to the barometer; not that we should have + understood its indications if we had seen it, but we all knew that + something was going to be radically wrong with the weather. For instead of + the lovely blue of the sky we had been so long accustomed to by day and + night, a nasty, greasy shade had come over the heavens, which, reflected + in the sea, made that look dirty and stale also. That well-known + appearance of the waves before a storm was also very marked, which + consists of an undecided sort of break in their tops. Instead of running + regularly, they seemed to hunch themselves up in little heaps, and throw + off a tiny flutter of spray, which generally fell in the opposite + direction to what little wind there was. The pigs and fowls felt the + approaching change keenly, and manifested the greatest uneasiness, leaving + their food and acting strangely. We were making scarcely any headway, so + that the storm was longer making its appearance than it would have been + had we been a swift clipper ship running down the Indian Ocean. For two + days we were kept in suspense; but on the second night the gloom began to + deepen, the wind to moan, and a very uncomfortable "jobble" of a sea got + up. Extra "gaskets" were put upon the sails, and everything movable about + the decks was made as secure as it could be. Only the two close-reefed + topsails and two storm stay-sails were carried, so that we were in + excellent trim for fighting the bad weather when it did come. The sky + gradually darkened and assumed a livid green tint, the effect of which was + most peculiar. + </p> + <p> + The wind blew fitfully in short, gusts, veering continually back and forth + over about a quarter of the compass. Although it was still light, it kept + up an incessant mournful moan not to be accounted for in any way. Darker + and darker grew the heavens, although no clouds were visible, only a + general pall of darkness. Glimmering lightnings played continually about + the eastern horizon, but not brilliant enough to show us the approaching + storm-cloud. And so came the morning of the third day from the beginning + of the change. But for the clock we should hardly have known that day had + broken, so gloomy and dark was the sky. At last light came in the east, + but such a light as no one would wish to see. It was a lurid glare, such + as may be seen playing over a cupola of Bessemer steel when the + speigeleisen is added, only on such an extensive scale that its brilliancy + was dulled into horror. Then, beneath it we saw the mountainous clouds + fringed with dull violet and with jagged sabres of lightning darting from + their solid black bosoms. The wind began to rise steadily but rapidly, so + that by eight a.m. it was blowing a furious gale from E.N.E. In direction + it was still unsteady, the ship coming up and falling off to it several + points. Now, great masses of torn, ragged cloud hurtled past us above, so + low down as almost to touch the mastheads. Still the wind increased, still + the sea rose, till at last the skipper judged it well to haul down the + tiny triangle of storm stay-sail still set (the topsail and fore stay-sail + had been furled long before), and let her drift under bare poles, except + for three square feet of stout canvas in the weather mizen-rigging. The + roar of the wind now dominated every sound, so that it might have been + thundering furiously, but we should not have heard it. The ship still + maintained her splendid character as a sea-boat, hardly shipping a drop of + water; but she lay over at a most distressing angle, her deck sloping off + fully thirty-five to forty degrees. Fortunately she did not roll to + windward. It may have been raining in perfect torrents, but the tempest + tore off the surface of the sea, and sent it in massive sheets continually + flying over us, so that we could not possibly have distinguished between + fresh water and salt. + </p> + <p> + The chief anxiety was for the safety of the boats. Early on the second day + of warning they had been hoisted to the topmost notch of the cranes, and + secured as thoroughly as experience could suggest; but at every lee lurch + we gave it seemed as if we must dip them under water, while the wind + threatened to stave the weather ones in by its actual solid weight. It was + now blowing a furious cyclone, the force of which has never been + accurately gauged (even by the present elaborate instruments of various + kinds in use). That force is, however, not to be imagined by any one who + has not witnessed it, except that one notable instance is on record by + which mathematicians may get an approximate estimate. + </p> + <p> + Captain Toynbee, the late highly respected and admired Marine + Superintendent of the British Meteorological Office, has told us how, + during a cyclone which he rode out in the HOTSPUR at Sandheads, the mouth + of the Hooghly, the three naked topgallant-masts of his ship, though of + well-tested timber a foot in diameter, and supported by all the usual + network of stays, and without the yards, were snapped off and carried away + solely by the violence of the wind. It must, of course, have been an + extreme gust, which did not last many seconds, for no cable that was ever + forged would have held the ship against such a cataclysm as that. This + gentleman's integrity is above suspicion, so that no exaggeration could be + charged against him, and he had the additional testimony of his officers + and men to this otherwise incredible fact. + </p> + <p> + The terrible day wore on, without any lightening of the tempest, till + noon, when the wind suddenly fell to a calm. Until that time, the sea, + although heavy, was not vicious or irregular, and we had not shipped any + heavy water at all. But when the force of the wind was suddenly withdrawn, + such a sea arose as I have never seen before or since. Inky mountains of + water raised their savage heads in wildest confusion, smashing one another + in whirlpools of foam. It was like a picture of the primeval deep out of + which arose the new-born world. Suddenly out of the whirling blackness + overhead the moon appeared, nearly in the zenith, sending down through the + apex of a dome of torn and madly gyrating cloud a flood of brilliant + light. Illumined by that startling radiance, our staunch and seaworthy + ship was tossed and twirled in the hideous vortex of mad sea until her + motion was distracting. It was quite impossible to loose one's hold and + attempt to do anything without running the imminent risk of being dashed + to pieces. Our decks were full of water now, for it tumbled on board at + all points; but as yet no serious weight of a sea had fallen upon us, nor + had any damage been done. Such a miracle as that could not be expected to + continue for long. Suddenly a warning shout rang out from somewhere—"Hold + on all, for your lives!" Out of the hideous turmoil around arose, like + some black, fantastic ruin, an awful heap of water. Higher and higher it + towered, until it was level with our lower yards, then it broke and fell + upon us. All was blank. Beneath that mass every thought, every feeling, + fled but one—"How long shall I be able to hold my breath?" After + what seemed a never-ending time, we emerged from the wave more dead than + alive, but with the good ship still staunch underneath us, and Hope's lamp + burning brightly. The moon had been momentarily obscured, but now shone + out again, lighting up brilliantly our bravely-battling ship. But, alas + for others!—men, like ourselves, whose hopes were gone. Quite near + us was the battered remainder of what had been a splendid ship. Her masts + were gone, not even the stumps being visible, and it seemed to our eager + eyes as if she was settling down. It was even so, for as we looked, + unmindful of our own danger, she quietly disappeared—swallowed up + with her human freight in a moment, like a pebble dropped into a pond. + </p> + <p> + While we looked with hardly beating hearts at the place where she had + sunk, all was blotted out in thick darkness again. With a roar, as of a + thousand thunders, the tempest came once more, but from the opposite + direction now. As we were under no sail, we ran little risk of being + caught aback; but, even had we, nothing could have been done, the vessel + being utterly out of control, besides the impossibility of getting about. + It so happened, however, that when the storm burst upon us again, we were + stern on to it, and we drove steadily for a few moments until we had time + to haul to the wind again. Great heavens! how it blew! Surely, I thought, + this cannot last long—just as we sometimes say of the rain when it + is extra heavy. It did last, however, for what seemed an interminable + time, although any one could see that the sky was getting kindlier. + Gradually, imperceptibly, it took off, the sky cleared, and the tumult + ceased, until a new day broke in untellable beauty over a revivified + world. + </p> + <p> + Years afterwards I read, in one of the hand-books treating of hurricanes + and cyclones, that "in the centre of these revolving storms the sea is so + violent that few ships can pass through it and live." That is true talk. I + have been there, and bear witness that but for the build and + sea-kindliness of the CACHALOT, she could not have come out of that + horrible cauldron again, but would have joined that nameless unfortunate + whom we saw succumb, "never again heard of." As it was, we found two of + the boats stove in, whether by breaking sea or crushing wind nobody knows. + Most of the planking of the bulwarks was also gone, burst outward by the + weight of the water on deck. Only the normal quantity of water was found + in the well on sounding, and not even a rope-yarn was gone from aloft. + Altogether, we came out of the ordeal triumphantly, where many a gallant + vessel met her fate, and the behaviour of the grand old tub gave me a + positive affection for her, such as I have never felt for a ship before or + since. + </p> + <p> + There was now a big heap of work for the carpenter, so the skipper decided + to run in for the Cocos or Keeling islands, in order to lay quietly and + refit. We had now only three boats sound, the one smashed when poor + Bamberger died being still unfinished—of course, the repairs had + practically amounted to rebuilding. Therefore we kept away for this + strange assemblage of reefs and islets, arriving off them early the next + day. + </p> + <p> + They consist of a true "atoll," or basin, whose rim is of coral reefs, + culminating occasionally in sandy islands or cays formed by the + accumulated debris washed up from the reef below, and then clothed upon + with all sorts of plants by the agency of birds and waves. + </p> + <p> + These islands have lately been so fully described in many different + journals, that I shall not burden the reader with any twice-told tales + about them, but merely chronicle the fact that for a week we lay at anchor + off one of the outlying cays, toiling continuously to get the vessel again + in fighting trim. + </p> + <p> + At last the overworked carpenter and his crew got through their heavy + task, and the order was given to "man the windlass." Up came the anchor, + and away we went again towards what used to be a noted haunt of the sperm + whale, the Seychelle Archipelego. Before the French, whose flag flies over + these islands, had with their usual short-sighted policy, clapped on + prohibitive port charges, Mahe was a specially favoured place of call for + the whalers. But when whale-ships find that it does not pay to visit a + place, being under no compulsion as regards time, they soon find other + harbours that serve their turn. We, of course, had no need to visit any + port for some time to come, having made such good use of our opportunities + at the Cocos. + </p> + <p> + We found whales scarce and small, so, although we cruised in this vicinity + for nearly two months, six small cow cachalots were all we were able to + add to our stock, representing less then two hundred barrels of oil. This + was hardly good enough for Captain Slocum. Therefore, we gradually drew + away from this beautiful cluster of islands, and crept across the Indian + Ocean towards the Straits of Malacca. On the way, we one night encountered + that strange phenomenon, a "milk" sea. It was a lovely night, with + scarcely any wind, the stars trying to make up for the absence of the moon + by shining with intense brightness. The water had been more phosphorescent + than usual, so that every little fish left a track of light behind him, + greatly disproportionate to his size. As the night wore on, the sea grew + brighter and brighter, until by midnight we appeared to be sailing on an + ocean of lambent flames. Every little wave that broke against the ship's + side sent up a shower of diamond-like spray, wonderfully beautiful to see, + while a passing school of porpoises fairly set the sea blazing as they + leaped and gambolled in its glowing waters. Looking up from sea to sky, + the latter seemed quite black instead of blue, and the lustre of the stars + was diminished till they only looked like points of polished steel, having + quite lost for the time their radiant sparkle. In that shining flood the + blackness of the ship stood out in startling contrast, and when we looked + over the side our faces were strangely lit up by the brilliant glow. + </p> + <p> + For several hours this beautiful appearance persisted, fading away at last + as gradually as it came. No satisfactory explanation of this curious + phenomenon has ever been given, nor does it appear to portend any change + of weather. It cannot be called a rare occurrence, although I have only + seen it thrice myself—once in the Bay of Cavite, in the Philippine + Islands; once in the Pacific, near the Solomon Islands; and on this + occasion of which I now write. But no one who had ever witnessed it could + forget so wonderful a sight. + </p> + <p> + One morning, a week after are had taken our departure from the Seychelles, + the officer at the main crow's-nest reported a vessel of some sort about + five miles to the windward. Something strange in her appearance made the + skipper haul up to intercept her. As we drew nearer, we made her out to be + a Malay "prahu;" but, by the look of her, she was deserted. The big + three-cornered sail that had been set, hung in tattered festoons from the + long, slender yard, which, without any gear to steady it, swung heavily to + and fro as the vessel rolled to the long swell. We drew closer and closer, + but no sign of life was visible on board, so the captain ordered a boat to + go and investigate. + </p> + <p> + In two minutes we were speeding away towards her, and, making a sweep + round her stern, prepared to board her. But we were met by a stench so + awful that Mr. Count would not proceed, and at once returned to the ship. + The boat was quickly hoisted again, and the ship manoeuvred to pass close + to windward of the derelict. Then, from our mast-head, a horrible sight + became visible. Lying about the weather-beaten deck, in various postures, + were thirteen corpses, all far advanced in decay, which horrible fact + fully accounted for the intolerable stench that had driven us away. It is, + perhaps, hardly necessary to say that we promptly hauled our wind, and + placed a good distance between us and that awful load of death as soon as + possible. Poor wretches! What terrible calamity had befallen them, we + could not guess; whatever it was, it had been complete; nor would any sane + man falling across them run the risk of closer examination into details + than we had done. It was a great pity that we were not able to sink the + prahu with her ghastly cargo, and so free the air from that poisonous + foetor that was a deadly danger to any vessel getting under her lee. + </p> + <p> + Next day, and for a whole week after, we had a stark calm such a calm as + one realizes who reads sympathetically that magical piece of work, the + "Ancient Mariner." What an amazing instance of the triumph of the human + imagination! For Coleridge certainly never witnessed such a scene as he + there describes with an accuracy of detail that is astounding. Very few + sailors have noticed the sickening condition of the ocean when the + life-giving breeze totally fails for any length of time, or, if they have, + they have said but little about it. Of course, some parts of the sea show + the evil effects of stagnation much sooner than others; but, generally + speaking, want of wind at sea, if long continued, produces a condition of + things dangerous to the health of any land near by. Whale-ships, + penetrating as they do to parts carefully avoided by ordinary trading + vessels, often afford their crews an opportunity of seeing things mostly + hidden from the sight of man, when, actuated by some mysterious impulse, + the uncanny denizens of the middle depths of the ocean rise to higher + levels, and show their weird shapes to the sun. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XII. WHICH TREATS OF THE KRAKEN + </h2> + <p> + It has often been a matter for considerable surprise to me, that while the + urban population of Great Britain is periodically agitated over the great + sea-serpent question, sailors, as a class, have very little to say on the + subject. During a considerable sea experience in all classes of vessels, + except men-of-war, and in most positions, I have heard a fairly + comprehensive catalogue of subjects brought under dog-watch discussion; + but the sea-serpent has never, within my recollection, been one of them. + </p> + <p> + The reasons for this abstinence may vary a great deal, but chief among + them is—sailors, as a class, "don't believe in no such a pusson." + More than that, they do believe that the mythical sea-serpent is "boomed" + at certain periods, in the lack of other subjects, which may not be far + from the fact. But there is also another reason, involving a disagreeable, + although strictly accurate, statement. Sailors are, again taken as a + class, the least observant of men. They will talk by the hour of + trivialities about which they know nothing; they will spin interminable + "cuffers" of debaucheries ashore all over the world; pick to pieces the + reputation of all the officers with whom they have ever sailed; but of the + glories, marvels, and mysteries of the mighty deep you will hear not a + word. I can never forget when on my first voyage to the West Indies, at + the age of twelve, I was one night smitten with awe and wonder at the + sight of a vast halo round the moon, some thirty or forty degrees in + diameter. Turning to the man at the wheel, I asked him earnestly "what + THAT was." He looked up with an uninterested eye for an instant in the + direction of my finger, then listlessly informed me, "That's what they + call a sarcle." For a long time I wondered what he could mean, but it + gradually dawned upon me that it was his Norfolk pronunciation of the word + "circle." The definition was a typical one, no worse than would be given + by the great majority of seamen of most of the natural phenomena they + witness daily. Very few seamen could distinguish between one whale and + another of a different species, or give an intelligible account of the + most ordinary and often-seen denizens of the sea. Whalers are especially + to be blamed for their blindness. "Eyes and no Eyes; or the Art of Seeing" + has evidently been little heard of among them. To this day I can conceive + of no more delightful journey for a naturalist to take than a voyage in a + southern whaler, especially if he were allowed to examine at his leisure + such creatures as were caught. But on board the CACHALOT I could get no + information at all upon the habits of the strange creatures we met with, + except whales, and very little about them. + </p> + <p> + I have before referred to the great molluscs upon which the sperm whale + feeds, portions of which I so frequently saw ejected from the stomach of + dying whales. Great as my curiosity naturally was to know more of these + immense organisms, all my inquiries on the subject were fruitless. These + veterans of the whale-fishery knew that the sperm whale lived on big + cuttlefish; but they neither knew, nor cared to know, anything more about + these marvellous molluscs. Yet, from the earliest dawn of history, + observant men have been striving to learn something definite about the + marine monsters of which all old legends of the sea have something to say. + </p> + <p> + As I mentioned in the last chapter, we were gradually edging across the + Indian Ocean towards Sumatra, but had been checked in our course by a calm + lasting a whole week. A light breeze then sprang up, aided by which we + crept around Achin Head, the northern point of the great island of + Sumatra. Like some gigantic beacon, the enormous mass of the Golden + Mountain dominated the peaceful scene. Pulo Way, or Water Island, looked + very inviting, and I should have been glad to visit a place so well known + to seamen by sight, but so little known by actual touching at. Our recent + stay at the Cocos, however, had settled the question of our calling + anywhere else for some time decidedly in the negative, unless we might be + compelled by accident; moreover, even in these days of law and order, it + is not wise to go poking about among the islands of the Malayan seas + unless you are prepared to fight. Our mission being to fight whales, we + were averse to running any risks, except in the lawful and necessary + exercise of our calling. + </p> + <p> + It would at first sight appear strange that, in view of the enormous + traffic of steamships through the Malacca Straits, so easily "gallied" a + creature as the cachalot should care to frequent its waters; indeed, I + should certainly think that a great reduction in the numbers of whales + found there must have taken place. But it must also be remembered, that in + modern steam navigation certain well-defined courses are laid down, which + vessels follow from point to point with hardly any deviation therefrom, + and that consequently little disturbance of the sea by their panting + propellers takes place, except upon these marine pathways; as, for + instance, in the Red Sea, where the examination of thousands of log-books + proved conclusively that, except upon straight lines drawn from point to + point between Suez to Perim, the sea is practically unused to-day. + </p> + <p> + The few Arab dhows and loitering surveying ships hardly count in this + connection, of course. At any rate, we had not entered the straits, but + were cruising between Car Nicobar and Junkseylon, when we "met up" with a + full-grown cachalot, as ugly a customer as one could wish. From nine a.m. + till dusk the battle raged—for I have often noticed that unless you + kill your whale pretty soon, he gets so wary, as well as fierce, that you + stand a gaudy chance of being worn down yourselves before you settle + accounts with your adversary. This affair certainly looked at one time as + if such would be the case with us; but along about five p.m., to our great + joy, we got him killed. The ejected food was in masses of enormous size, + larger than any we had yet seen on the voyage, some of them being + estimated to be of the size of our hatch-house, viz. 8 feet x 6 feet x 6 + feet. The whale having been secured alongside, all hands were sent below, + as they were worn out with the day's work. The third mate being ill, I had + been invested with the questionable honour of standing his watch, on + account of my sea experience and growing favour with the chief. Very + bitterly did I resent the privilege at the time, I remember, being so + tired and sleepy that I knew not how to keep awake. I did not imagine that + anything would happen to make me prize that night's experience for the + rest of my life, or I should have taken matters with a far better grace. + </p> + <p> + At about eleven p.m. I was leaning over the lee rail, grazing steadily at + the bright surface of the sea, where the intense radiance of the tropical + moon made a broad path like a pavement of burnished silver. Eyes that saw + not, mind only confusedly conscious of my surroundings, were mine; but + suddenly I started to my feet with an exclamation, and stared with all my + might at the strangest sight I ever saw. There was a violent commotion in + the sea right where the moon's rays were concentrated, so great that, + remembering our position, I was at first inclined to alarm all hands; for + I had often heard of volcanic islands suddenly lifting their heads from + the depths below, or disappearing in a moment, and, with Sumatra's chain + of active volcanoes so near, I felt doubtful indeed of what was now + happening. Getting the night-glasses out of the cabin scuttle, where they + were always hung in readiness, I focussed them on the troubled spot, + perfectly satisfied by a short examination that neither volcano nor + earthquake had anything to do with what was going on; yet so vast were the + forces engaged that I might well have been excused for my first + supposition. A very large sperm whale was locked in deadly conflict with a + cuttle-fish or squid, almost as large as himself, whose interminable + tentacles seemed to enlace the whole of his great body. The head of the + whale especially seemed a perfect net-work of writhing arms—naturally + I suppose, for it appeared as if the whale had the tail part of the + mollusc in his jaws, and, in a business-like, methodical way, was sawing + through it. By the side of the black columnar head of the whale appeared + the head of the great squid, as awful an object as one could well imagine + even in a fevered dream. Judging as carefully as possible, I estimated it + to be at least as large as one of our pipes, which contained three hundred + and fifty gallons; but it may have been, and probably was, a good deal + larger. The eyes were very remarkable from their size and blackness, + which, contrasted with the livid whiteness of the head, made their + appearance all the more striking. They were, at least, a foot in diameter, + and, seen under such conditions, looked decidedly eerie and + hobgoblin-like. All around the combatants were numerous sharks, like + jackals round a lion, ready to share the feast, and apparently assisting + in the destruction of the huge cephalopod. So the titanic struggle went + on, in perfect silence as far as we were concerned, because, even had + there been any noise, our distance from the scene of conflict would not + have permitted us to hear it. + </p> + <p> + Thinking that such a sight ought not to be missed by the captain, I + overcame my dread of him sufficiently to call him, and tell him of what + was taking place. He met my remarks with such a furious burst of anger at + my daring to disturb him for such a cause, that I fled precipitately on + deck again, having the remainder of the vision to myself, for none of the + others cared sufficiently for such things to lose five minutes' sleep in + witnessing them. The conflict ceased, the sea resumed its placid calm, and + nothing remained to tell of the fight but a strong odour of fish, as of a + bank of seaweed left by the tide in the blazing sun. Eight bells struck, + and I went below to a troubled sleep, wherein all the awful monsters that + an over-excited brain could conjure up pursued me through the gloomy caves + of ocean, or mocked my pigmy efforts to escape. + </p> + <p> + The occasions upon which these gigantic cuttle-fish appear at the sea + surface must, I think, be very rare. From their construction, they appear + fitted only to grope among the rocks at the bottom of the ocean. Their + mode of progression is backward, by the forcible ejection of a jet of + water from an orifice in the neck, beside the rectum or cloaca. + Consequently their normal position is head-downward, and with tentacles + spread out like the ribs of an umbrella—eight of them at least; the + two long ones, like the antennae of an insect, rove unceasingly around, + seeking prey. + </p> + <p> + The imagination can hardly picture a more terrible object than one of + these huge monsters brooding in the ocean depths, the gloom of his + surroundings increased by the inky fluid (sepia) which he secretes in + copious quantities, every cup-shaped disc, of the hundreds with which the + restless tentacles are furnished, ready at the slightest touch to grip + whatever is near, not only by suction, but by the great claws set all + round within its circle. And in the centre of this net-work of living + traps is the chasm-like mouth, with its enormous parrot-beak, ready to + rend piecemeal whatever is held by the tentaculae. The very thought of it + makes one's flesh crawl. Well did Michelet term them "the insatiable + nightmares of the sea." + </p> + <p> + Yet, but for them, how would such great creatures as the sperm whale be + fed? Unable, from their bulk, to capture small fish except by accident, + and, by the absence of a sieve of baleen, precluded from subsisting upon + the tiny crustacea, which support the MYSTICETAE, the cachalots seem to be + confined for their diet to cuttle-fish, and, from their point of view, the + bigger the latter are the better. How big they may become in the depths of + the sea, no man knoweth; but it is unlikely that even the vast specimens + seen are full-sized, since they have only come to the surface under + abnormal conditions, like the one I have attempted to describe, who had + evidently been dragged up by his relentless foe. + </p> + <p> + Creatures like these, who inhabit deep waters, and do not need to come to + the surface by the exigencies of their existence, necessarily present many + obstacles to accurate investigation of their structure and habits; but, + from the few specimens that have been obtained of late years, fairly + comprehensive details have been compiled, and may be studied in various + French and German works, of which the Natural History Museum at South + Kensington possesses copies. These, through the courtesy of the + authorities in charge, are easily accessible to students who wish to + prosecute the study of this wonderful branch of the great mollusca family. + </p> + <p> + When we commenced to cut in our whale next morning, the sea was fairly + alive with fish of innumerable kinds, while a vast host of sea-birds, as + usual, waited impatiently for the breaking-up of the huge carcass, which + they knew would afford them no end of a feast. An untoward accident, which + happened soon after the work was started, gave the waiting myriads immense + satisfaction, although the unfortunate second mate, whose slip of the + spade was responsible, came in for a hurricane of vituperation from the + enraged skipper. It was in detaching the case from the head—always a + work of difficulty, and requiring great precision of aim. Just as Mr. + Cruce made a powerful thrust with his keen tool, the vessel rolled, and + the blow, missing the score in which he was cutting, fell upon the case + instead, piercing its side. For a few minutes the result was unnoticed + amidst the wash of the ragged edges of the cut, but presently a long + streak of white, wax-like pieces floating astern, and a tremendous + commotion among the birds, told the story. The liquid spermaceti was + leaking rapidly from the case, turning solid as it got into the cool + water. Nothing could be done to stop the waste, which, as it was a large + whale, was not less than twenty barrels, or about two tuns of pure + spermaceti. An accident of this kind never failed to make our skipper + almost unbearable in his temper for some days afterwards; and, to do him + justice, he did not discriminate very carefully as to who felt his + resentment besides its immediate cause. + </p> + <p> + Therefore we had all a rough time of it while his angry fit lasted, which + was a whole week, or until all was shipshape again. Meanwhile we were + edging gradually through the Malacca Straits and around the big island of + Borneo, never going very near the land on account of the great and + numerous dangers attendant upon coasting in those localities to any but + those continually engaged in such a business. + </p> + <p> + Indeed, all navigation in those seas to sailing vessels is dangerous, and + requires the greatest care. Often we were obliged at a minute's notice to + let go the anchor, although out of sight of land, some rapid current being + found carrying us swiftly towards a shoal or race, where we might come to + grief. Yet there was no fuss or hurry, the same leisurely old system was + continued, and worked as well as ever. But it was not apparent why we were + threading the tortuous and difficult waters of the Indian Archipelago. No + whales of any kind were seen for at least a month, although, from our + leisurely mode of sailing, it was evident that they were looked for. + </p> + <p> + An occasional native craft came alongside, desirous of bartering fish, + which we did not want, being able to catch all we needed as readily almost + as they were. Fruit and vegetables we could not get at such distances from + land, for the small canoes that lie in wait for passing ships do not of + course venture far from home. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIII. OFF TO THE JAPAN GROUNDS + </h2> + <p> + Very tedious and trying was our passage northward, although every effort + was made by the skipper to expedite it. Nothing of advantage to our cargo + was seen for a long time, which, although apparently what was to be + expected, did not improve Captain Slocum's temper. But, to the surprise of + all, when we had arrived off the beautiful island of Hong Kong, to which + we approached closely, we "raised" a grand sperm whale. + </p> + <p> + Many fishing-junks were in sight, busily plying their trade, and at any + other time we should have been much interested in the quaint and cunning + devices by which the patient, wily Chinaman succeeds so admirably as a + fisherman. Our own fishing, for the time being, absorbed all our attention—the + more, perhaps, that we had for so long been unable to do anything in that + line. After the usual preliminaries, we were successful in getting fast to + the great creature, who immediately showed fight. So skilful and wary did + he prove that Captain Slocum, growing impatient at our manoeuvring with no + result, himself took the field, arriving on the scene with the air of one + who comes to see and conquer without more delay. He brought with him a + weapon which I have not hitherto mentioned, because none of the harpooners + could be induced to use it, and consequently it had not been much in + evidence. Theoretically, it was as ideal tool for such work, its chief + drawback being its cumbrousness. It was known as "Pierce's darting gun," + being a combination of bomb-gun and harpoon, capable of being darted at + the whale like a plain harpoon. Its construction was simple; indeed, the + patent was a very old one. A tube of brass, thickening towards the butt, + at which was a square chamber firmly welded to a socket for receiving the + pole, formed the gun itself. Within the chamber aforesaid a nipple + protruded from the base of the tube, and in line with it. The trigger was + simply a flat bit of steel, like a piece of clock spring, which was held + down by the hooked end of a steel rod long enough to stick out beyond the + muzzle of the gun three or four inches, and held in position by two + flanges at the butt and muzzle of the barrel. On the opposite side of the + tube were two more flanges, close together, into the holes of which was + inserted the end of a specially made harpoon, having an eye twisted in its + shank through which the whale line was spliced. The whole machine was + fitted to a neat pole, and strongly secured to it by means of a "gun + warp," or short piece of thin line, by which it could be hauled back into + the boat after being darted at a whale. To prepare this weapon for use, + the barrel was loaded with a charge of powder and a bomb similar to those + used in the shoulder-guns, the point of which just protruded from the + muzzle. An ordinary percussion cap was placed upon the nipple, and the + trigger cocked by placing the trigger-rod in position. The harpoon, with + the line attached, was firmly set into the socketed flanges prepared for + it, and the whole arrangement was then ready to be darted at the whale in + the usual way. + </p> + <p> + Supposing the aim to be good and the force sufficient, the harpoon would + penetrate the blubber until the end of the trigger-rod was driven + backwards by striking the blubber, releasing the trigger and firing the + gun. Thus the whale would be harpooned and bomb-lanced at the same time, + and, supposing everything to work satisfactorily, very little more could + be needed to finish him. But the weapon was so cumbersome and awkward, and + the harpooners stood in such awe of it, that in the majority of cases the + whale was either missed altogether or the harpoon got such slight hold + that the gun did not go off, the result being generally disastrous. + </p> + <p> + In the present case, however, the "Pierce" gun was in the hands of a man + by no means nervous, and above criticism or blame in case of failure. So + when he sailed in to the attack, and delivered his "swashing blow," the + report of the gun was immediately heard, proving conclusively that a + successful stroke had been made. + </p> + <p> + It had an instantaneous and astonishing effect. The sorely wounded + monster, with one tremendous expiration, rolled over and over swift as + thought towards his aggressor, literally burying the boat beneath his vast + bulk. Now, one would have thought surely, upon seeing this, that none of + that boat's crew would ever have been seen again. Nevertheless, strange as + it may appear, out of that seething lather of foam, all six heads emerged + again in an instant, but on the OTHER side of the great creature. How any + of them escaped instant violent death was, and from the nature of the case + must, ever remain, an unravelled mystery, for the boat was crumbled into + innumerable fragments, and the three hundred fathoms of line, in a perfect + maze of entanglement, appeared to be wrapped about the writhing trunk of + the whale. Happily, there were two boats disengaged, so that they were + able very promptly to rescue the sufferers from their perilous position in + the boiling vortex of foam by which they were surrounded. Meanwhile, the + remaining boat had an easy task. The shot delivered by the captain had + taken deadly effect, the bomb having entered the creature's side low down, + directly abaft the pectoral fin. It must have exploded within the cavity + of the bowels, from its position, causing such extensive injuries as to + make even that vast animal's death but a matter of a few moments. + Therefore, we did not run any unnecessary risks, but hauled off to a safe + distance and quietly watched the death-throes. They were so brief, that in + less than ten minutes from the time of the accident we were busy securing + the line through the flukes of our prize. + </p> + <p> + The vessel was an unusually long time working up to us, so slow, in fact, + that Mr Count remarked, critically, "Shouldn't wonder if th' ole man ain't + hurt; they're taking things so all-fired easy." By the time she had + reached us, we had a good few visitors around us from the fishing fleet, + who caused us no little anxiety, The Chinese have no prejudices; they + would just as soon steal a whale as a herring, if the conveyance could be + effected without, more trouble or risk to their own yellow skins. If it + involved the killing of a few foreign devils—well, so much to the + good. The ship, however, arrived before the fishermen had decided upon any + active steps, and we got our catch alongside without any delay. The truth + of Mr. Count's forecast was verified to the hilt, for we found that the + captain was so badly bruised about the body that he was unable to move, + while one of the hands, a Portuguese, was injured internally, and seemed + very bad indeed. Had any one told us that morning that we should be sorry + to see Captain Slocum with sore bones, we should have scoffed at the + notion, and some of us would probably have said that we should like to + have the opportunity of making him smart. But under the present + circumstances, with some hundreds of perfectly ruthless wretches hovering + around us, looking with longing eyes at the treasure we had alongside, we + could not help remembering the courage and resource so often shown by the + skipper, and wished with all our hearts that we could have the benefit of + them now. As soon as dinner was over, we all "turned to" with a will to + get the whale cut in. None of us required to be told that to lay all night + with that whale alongside would be extremely unhealthy for us, great doubt + existing as to whether any of us would see morning dawn again. There was, + too, just a possibility that when the carcass, stripped of its blubber, + was cut adrift, those ravenous crowds would fasten upon it, and let us go + in peace. + </p> + <p> + All hands, therefore, worked like Trojans. There was no need to drive us, + nor was a single harsh word spoken. Nothing was heard but the almost + incessant clatter of the windlass pawls, abrupt monosyllabic orders, and + the occasional melancholy wail of a gannet overhead. No word had been + spoken on the subject among us, yet somehow we all realized that we were + working for a large stake no less than our lives. What! says somebody, + within a few miles of Hong Kong? Oh yes; and even within Hong Kong harbour + itself, if opportunity offers. Let any man go down the wharf at Hong Kong + after sunset, and hail a sampan from the hundreds there that are waiting + to be hired. Hardly will the summons have left his lips before a white + policeman will be at his side, note-book in hand, inquiring his name and + ship, and taking a note of the sampan's number, with the time of his + leaving the wharf. Nothing perfunctory about the job either. Let but these + precautions be omitted, and the chances that the passenger (if he have + aught of value about him) will ever arrive at his destination are almost + nil. + </p> + <p> + So good was the progress made that by five p.m. we were busy at the head, + while the last few turns of the windlass were being taken to complete the + skinning of the body. With a long pent-up shout that last piece was + severed and swung inboard, as the huge mass of reeking flesh floated + slowly astern. As it drifted away we saw the patient watchers who had been + waiting converging upon it from all quarters, and our hopes rose high. But + there was no slackening of our efforts to get in the head. By the time it + was dark we managed to get the junk on board, and by the most + extraordinary efforts lifted the whole remainder of the head high enough + to make sail and stand off to sea. The wind was off the land, the water + smooth, and no swell on, so we took no damage from that tremendous weight + surging by our side, though, had the worst come to the worst, we could + have cut it adrift. + </p> + <p> + When morning dawned we hove-to, the land being only dimly visible astern, + and finished taking on board our "head matter" without further incident. + The danger past, we were all well pleased that the captain was below, for + the work proceeded quite pleasantly under the genial rule of the mate. + Since leaving port we had not felt so comfortable, the work, with all its + disagreeables, seeming as nothing now that we could do it without fear and + trembling. Alas for poor Jemmy!—as we always persisted in calling + him from inability to pronounce his proper name—his case was + evidently hopeless. His fellows did their poor best to comfort his + fast-fleeting hours, one after another murmuring to him the prayers of the + Church, which, although they did not understand them, they evidently + believed most firmly to have some marvellous power to open the gates of + paradise and cleanse the sinner. Notwithstanding the grim fact that their + worship was almost pure superstition, it was far more in accordance with + the fitness of things for a dying man's surroundings than such scenes as I + have witnessed in the forecastles of merchant ships when poor sailors lay + a-dying. I remember well once, when I was second officer of a large + passenger ship, going in the forecastle as she lay at anchor at St. + Helena, to see a sick man. Half the crew were drunk, and the beastly + kennel in which they lived was in a thick fog of tobacco-smoke and the + stale stench of rum. Ribald songs, quarrelling, and blasphemy made a + veritable pandemonium of the place. I passed quietly through it to the + sick man's bunk, and found him—dead! He had passed away in the midst + of that, but the horror of it did not seem to impress his bemused + shipmates much. + </p> + <p> + Here, at any rate, there was quiet and decorum, while all that could be + done for the poor sufferer (not much, from ignorance of how he was + injured) was done. He was released from his pain in the afternoon of the + second day after the accident, the end coming suddenly and peacefully. The + same evening, at sunset, the body, neatly sewn up in canvas, with a big + lump of sandstone secured to the feet, was brought on deck, laid on a + hatch at the gangway, and covered with the blue, star-spangled American + Jack. Then all hands were mustered in the waist, the ship's bell was + tolled, and the ensign run up halfway. + </p> + <p> + The captain was still too ill to be moved, so the mate stepped forward + with a rusty old Common Prayer-book in his hands, whereon my vagrant fancy + immediately fastened in frantic endeavour to imagine how it came to be + there. The silence of death was over all. True, the man was but a unit of + no special note among us, but death had conferred upon him a brevet rank, + in virtue of which be dominated every thought. It seemed strange to me + that we who faced death so often and variously, until natural fear had + become deadened by custom, should, now that one of our number lay a + rapidly-corrupting husk before us, be so tremendously impressed by the + simple, inevitable fact. I suppose it was because none of us were able to + realize the immanence of Death until we saw his handiwork. Mr. Count + opened the book, fumbling nervously among the unfamiliar leaves. Then he + suddenly looked up, his weather-scarred face glowing a dull brick-red, and + said, in a low voice, "This thing's too many fer me; kin any of ye do it? + Ef not, I guess we'll hev ter take it as read." There was no response for + a moment; then I stepped forward, reaching out my hand for the book. Its + contents were familiar enough to me, for in happy pre-arab days I had been + a chorister in the old Lock Chapel, Harrow Road, and had borne my part in + the service so often that I think even now I could repeat the greater part + of it MEMORITER. Mr. Count gave it me without a word, and, trembling like + a leaf, I turned to the "Burial Service," and began the majestic + sentences, "I am the Resurrection and the Life, saith the Lord." I did not + know my own voice as the wonderful words sounded clearly in the still air; + but if ever a small body of soul-hardened men FELT the power of God, it + was then. At the words, "We therefore commit his body to the deep," I + paused, and, the mate making a sign, two of the harpooners tilted the + hatch, from which the remains slid off into the unknown depths with a dull + splash. Several of the dead man's compatriots covered their faces, and + murmured prayers for the repose of his soul, while the tears trickled + through their horny fingers. But matters soon resumed their normal course; + the tension over, back came the strings of life into position again, to + play the same old tunes and discords once more. + </p> + <p> + The captured whale made an addition to our cargo of one hundred and ten + barrels—a very fair haul indeed. The harpooners were disposed to + regard this capture as auspicious upon opening the North Pacific, where, + in spite of the time we had spent, and the fair luck we had experienced in + the Indian Ocean, we expected to make the chief portion of our cargo. + </p> + <p> + Our next cruising-ground is known to whalemen as the "Coast of Japan" + ground, and has certainly proved in the past the most prolific fishery of + sperm whales in the whole world. I am inclined now to believe that there + are more and larger cachalots to be found in the Southern Hemisphere, + between the parallels of 33deg. and 50deg. South; but there the drawback + of heavy weather and mountainous seas severely handicaps the fishermen. + </p> + <p> + It is somewhat of a misnomer to call the Coast of Japan ground by that + name, since to be successful you should not sight Japan at all, but keep + out of range of the cold current that sweeps right across the Pacific, + skirting the Philippines, along the coasts of the Japanese islands as far + as the Kuriles, and then returns to the eastward again to the southward of + the Aleutian Archipelago. The greatest number of whales are always found + in the vicinity of the Bonin and Volcano groups of islands, which lie in + the eddy formed by the northward bend of the mighty current before + mentioned. This wonderful ground was first cruised by a London whale-ship, + the SYREN, in 1819, when the English branch of the sperm whale-fishery was + in its prime, and London skippers were proud of the fact that one of their + number, in the EMILIA, had thirty-one years before first ventured around + Cape Horn in pursuit of the cachalot. + </p> + <p> + After the advent of the SYREN, the Bonins became the favourite + fishing-ground for both Americans and British, and for many years the + catch of oil taken from these teeming waters averaged four thousand tuns + annually. That the value of the fishery was maintained at so high a level + for over a quarter of a century was doubtless due to the fact that there + was a long, self-imposed close season, during which the whales were quite + unmolested. Nothing in the migratory habits of this whale, so far as has + ever been observed, would have prevented a profitable fishing all the year + round; but custom, stronger even than profit, ordained that whale-ships + should never stay too long upon one fishing-ground, but move on farther + until the usual round had been made, unless the vessel were filled in the + mean time. + </p> + <p> + Of course, there are whales whose habits lead them at certain seasons, for + breeding purposes, to frequent various groups of islands, but the cachalot + seems to be quite impartial in his preferences; if he "uses" around + certain waters, he is just as likely to be found there in July as January. + </p> + <p> + The Bonins, too, form an ideal calling-place, from the whaling captain's + point of view. Peel Island, the principal one of the cluster, has a + perfect harbour in Port Lloyd, where a vessel can not only lie in comfort, + sheltered from almost every wind that blows, but where provisions, wood, + and water are plentiful. There is no inducement, or indeed room, for + desertion, and the place is healthy. It is colonized by Japs from the + kingdom so easily reached to the westward, and the busy little people, + after their manner, make a short stay very agreeable. + </p> + <p> + Once clear of the southern end of Formosa we had quite a rapid run to the + Bonins, carrying a press of sail day and night, as the skipper was anxious + to arrive there on account of his recent injuries. He was still very lame, + and he feared that some damage might have been done to him of which he was + ignorant. Besides, it was easy to see that he did not altogether like + anybody else being in charge of his ship, no matter how good they were. + Such was the expedition we made that we arrived at Port Lloyd twelve days + after clearing up our last whale. Very beautiful indeed the islands, + appeared, with their bold, steep sides clad in richest green, or, where no + vegetation appeared, worn into a thousand fantastic shapes by the sea, or + the mountain torrents carving away the lava of which they were all + composed. For the whole of the islands were volcanic, and Port Lloyd + itself is nothing more than the crater of a vast volcano, which in some + tremendous convulsion of nature has sunk from its former high estate low + enough to become a haven for ships. + </p> + <p> + I have said that it was a perfect harbour, but there is no doubt that + getting in or out requires plenty of nerve as well as seamanship. There + was so little room, and the eddying flows of wind under the high land were + so baffling, that at various times during our passage in it appeared as if + nothing could prevent us from getting stuck upon some of the adjacent + hungry-looking coral reefs. Nothing of the kind happened, however, and we + came comfortably to an anchor near three other whale-ships which were + already there. They were the DIEGO RAMIREZ, of Nantucket; the CORONEL, of + Providence, Rhode Island; and the GRAMPUS, of New Bedford. These were the + first whale-ships we had yet seen, and it may be imagined how anxious we + felt to meet men with whom we could compare notes and exchange yarns. It + might be, too, that we should get some news of that world which, as far as + we were concerned, might as well have been at the other extremity of the + solar system for the last year, so completely isolated had we been. + </p> + <p> + The sails were hardly fast before a boat from each of the ships was + alongside with their respective skippers on board. The extra exertion + necessary to pilot the ship in had knocked the old man up, in his present + weak state, and he had gone below for a short rest; so the three visitors + dived down into the stuffy cabin, all anxious to interview the latest + comer. Considerate always, Mr. Count allowed us to have the remainder of + the day to ourselves, so we set about entertaining our company. It was no + joke twelve of them coming upon us all at once, and babel ensued for a + short time. They knew the system too well to expect refreshments, so we + had not to apologize for having nothing to set before them. They had not + come, however, for meat and drink, but for talk. And talk we did, + sometimes altogether, sometimes rationally; but I doubt whether any of us + had ever enjoyed talking so much before. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIV. LIBERTY DAY—AND AFTER + </h2> + <p> + There is generally current among seamen a notion that all masters of ships + are bound by law to give their crews twenty-four hours' liberty and a + portion of their wages to spend every three months, if they are in port. I + have never heard any authority quoted for this, and do not know what + foundation there is for such a belief, although the practice is usually + adhered to in English ships. But American whale-ships apparently know no + law, except the will of their commanders, whose convenience is always the + first consideration. Thus, we had now been afloat for well over a year, + during which time, except for our foraging excursions at the Cocos and + Aldabra, we had certainly known no liberty for a whole day. + </p> + <p> + Our present port being one where it was impossible to desert without the + certainty of prompt recapture, with subsequent suffering altogether + disproportionate to the offence, we were told that one watch at a time + would be allowed their liberty for a day. So we of the port watch made our + simple preparations, received twenty-five cents each, and were turned + adrift on the beach to enjoy ourselves. We had our liberty, but we didn't + know what to do with it. There was a native town and a couple of low + groggeries kept by Chinamen, where some of my shipmates promptly invested + a portion of their wealth in some horrible liquor, the smell of which was + enough to make an ordinary individual sick. There was no place apparently + where one could get a meal, so that the prospect of our stay ashore + lasting a day did not seem very great. I was fortunate enough, however, to + foregather with a Scotchman who was a beach-comber, and consequently "knew + the ropes." I dare say he was an unmitigated blackguard whenever he got + the chance, but he was certainly on his best behaviour with me. He took me + into the country a bit to see the sights, which were such as most of the + Pacific islands afford. Wonderful indeed were the fantastic rocks, twisted + into innumerable grotesque shapes, and, along the shores, hollowed out + into caverns of all sizes, some large enough to shelter an army. He was + quite familiar with the natives, understanding enough of their queer lingo + to get along. By his friendly aid we got some food—yams, and fish + cooked in native fashion, i.e. in heated holes in the ground, for which + the friendly Kanakas would take no payment, although they looked murderous + enough to be cannibals. It does not do to go by looks always. + </p> + <p> + Well, after a long ramble, the Scotchman and I laid our weary bodies down + in the shade of a big rock, and had a grand sleep, waking up again a + little before sunset. We hastened down to the beach off the town, where + all my watchmates were sitting in a row, like lost sheep, waiting to be + taken on board again. They had had enough of liberty; indeed, such liberty + as that was hardly worth having. It seems hardly credible, but we were + actually glad to get on board again, it was so miserable ashore, The + natives were most unsociable at the port, and we could not make ourselves + understood, so there was not much fun to be had. Even those who were + inclined to drink had too little for a spree, which I was not sorry for, + since doubtless a very unpleasant reception would have awaited them had + they come on board drunk. + </p> + <p> + Next day the starboard watch went on liberty, while we who had received + our share were told off to spend the day wooding and watering. In this + most pleasant of occupations (when the weather is fine) I passed a much + more satisfactory time than when wandering about with no objective, an + empty pocket, and a hungry belly. No foremast hand has ever enjoyed his + opportunities of making the acquaintance of his various visiting places + more than I have; but the circumstances attendant upon one's leave must be + a little favourable, or I would much rather stay aboard and fish. Our task + was over for the day, a goodly store of wood and casks of water having + been shipped. We were sitting down to supper, when, in answer to a hail + from the beach, we were ordered to fetch the liberty men. When we got to + them, there was a pretty how-d'ye-do. All of them were more or less drunk, + some exceedingly quarrelsome. Now, Mistah Jones was steering our boat, + looking as little like a man to take sauce from a drunken sailor as you + could imagine. Most of the transformed crowd ya-hooing on the beach had + felt the weight of his shoulder-of-mutton fist, yet so utterly had + prudence forsaken them that, before we came near them, they were abusing + him through all the varied gamut of filthy language they possessed. My + democratic sentiments are deeply seated, but I do believe in authority, + and respect for it being rigidly enforced, so this uncalled-for scene + upset me, making me feel anxious that the gibbering fools might get a + lesson. They got one. + </p> + <p> + Goliath stood like a tower, his eyes alone betraying the fierce anger + boiling within. When we touched the beach, his voice was mild end gentle + as a child's, his movements calm and deliberate. As soon as we had beached + the boat he stepped ashore, and in two strides was in the middle of the + snarling group. Further parley ceased at once. Snatching the loudest of + them by the breast of his shirt with his right hand, another one by the + collar with his left, he flung himself backwards towards the boat, + knocking the interveners right and left. But a protruding fragment of rock + caught his heel, bringing him with his captives to the ground in a + writhing mass. The rest, maddened beyond restraint of fear, flung + themselves upon the prostrate man, the glimmer of more than one + knife-blade appearing. Two of us from the boat—one with the tiller, + the other brandishing a paddle—rushed to the rescue; but before we + arrived the giant had heaved off his assailants, and, with no other + weapons than his bare hands, was doing terrific execution among them. Not + knowing, I suppose, whether we were friendly to him or not, he shouted to + us to keep away, nor dare to interfere. There was no need. Disregarding + such trifles as a few superficial cuts—not feeling them perhaps—he + so unmercifully mauled that crowd that they howled again for mercy. The + battle was brief and bloody. Before hostilities had lasted five minutes, + six of the aggressors were stretched insensible; the rest, comprising as + many more, were pleading for mercy, completely sober. Such prowess on the + part of one man against twelve seems hardly credible; but it must be + remembered that Goliath fought, with all the moral force of the ship's + officers behind him, against a disorganized crowd without backbone, who + would never have dared to face him but for the temporary mania induced by + the stuff they had drunk. It was a conflict between a lion and a troop of + jackals, whereof the issue was never in doubt as long as lethal weapons + were wanting. + </p> + <p> + Standing erect among the cowering creatures, the great negro looked every + inch a mediaeval hero. In a stern voice he bade his subjugated enemies to + get into the boat, assisting those to do so who were too badly hurt to + rise. Then we shoved off for the ship—a sorrowful gang indeed. + </p> + <p> + As I bent to my oar, I felt very sorry for what had happened. Here were + half the crew guilty of an act of violence upon an officer, which, + according to the severe code under which we lived, merited punishment as + painful as could be inflicted, and lasting for the rest of the voyage. + Whatever form that punishment might take, those of us who were innocent + would be almost equal sufferers with the others, because discrimination in + the treatment between watch and watch is always difficult, and in our case + it was certain that it would not be attempted. Except as regarded physical + violence, we might all expect to share alike. Undoubtedly things looked + very unpleasant. My gloomy cogitations were abruptly terminated by the + order to "unrow"—we were alongside. Somehow or other all hands + managed to scramble on board, and assist in hoisting the boat up. + </p> + <p> + As soon as she was secured we slunk away forward, but we had hardly got + below before a tremendous summons from Goliath brought us all aft again at + the double quick. Most of the fracas had been witnessed from the ship, so + that but a minute or two was needed to explain how or why it begun. + Directly that explanation had been supplied by Mistah Jones, the order was + issued for the culprits to appear. + </p> + <p> + I have before noticed how little love was lost between the skipper and his + officers, Goliath having even once gone so far as to give me a very + emphatic opinion of his about the "old man" of a most unflattering nature. + And had such a state of things existed on board an English ship, the crew + would simply have taken charge, for they would have seen the junior + officers flouted, snubbed, and jeered at; and, of course, what they saw + the captain do, they would not be slow to improve on. Many a promising + young officer's career has been blighted in this way by the feminine spite + of a foolish man unable to see that if the captain shows no respect to his + officers, neither will the crew, nor obedience either. + </p> + <p> + But in an American ship, so long as an officer remains an officer, he must + be treated as such by every man, under pain of prompt punishment. Yankee + skippers have far too much NOUS to allow their hands to grow saucy in + consequence of division among the after-guard. So now a sort of + court-martial was held upon the unfortunates who had dared to attack + Goliath, at which that sable hero might have been the apple of Captain + Slocum's eye, so solicitous was he of Mistah Jones' honour and the + reparation to be made. + </p> + <p> + This sort of thing was right in his line. Naturally cruel, he seemed to + thoroughly enjoy himself in the prospect of making human beings twist and + writhe in pain. Nor would he be baulked of a jot of his pleasure. + </p> + <p> + Goliath approached him, and muttered a few words, meant, I felt sure, to + appease him by letting him know how much they had suffered at his strong + hands; but he turned upon the negro with a savage curse, bidding him be + silent. Then every one of the culprits was stripped, and secured to the + lash-rail by the wrists; scourges were made of cotton fish-line, knotted + at intervals, and secured to a stout handle; the harpooners were told off + as executioners, and the flogging began. Perhaps it was necessary for the + maintenance of discipline—certainly it was trivial compared with the + practice, till recently, in our own army and navy; but I am glad to say + that, compelled to witness it, I felt quite sick—physically sick—trembling + so in every limb that my legs would not support me. It was not fear, for I + had nothing to fear had I been ever such a coward. Whatever it was, I am + not sorry either to have felt it or to own it, even while I fully admit + that for some forms of wickedness nothing but the lash seems adequate + punishment. + </p> + <p> + Some of the victims fainted, not being in the best condition at the outset + for undergoing so severe a trial; but all were treated alike, buckets of + salt water being flung over them. This drastic reviver, while adding to + their pain, brought them all into a state of sufficient activity to get + forward when they were released. Smarting and degraded, all their + temporary bravado effectually banished, they were indeed pitiable objects, + their deplorable state all the harder to bear from its contrast to our + recent pleasure when we entertained the visiting crews. + </p> + <p> + Having completed our quantum of wood, water, and fresh provisions for the + officers, we got under way again for the fishing grounds. I did not see + how we could hope for a successful season, knowing the utterly despondent + state of the crew, which even affected the officers, who, not so callous + or cruel as the skipper, seemed to be getting rather tired of the constant + drive and kick, now the normal condition of affairs. But the skipper's + vigilance was great. Whether he noted any sign of slackness or + indifference on the part of his coadjutors or not, of course I cannot say, + but he certainly seemed to put more vigour into his attentions than had + been his wont, and so kept everybody up to the mark. + </p> + <p> + Hitherto we had always had our fishing to ourselves; we were now to see + something of the ways of other men employed in the same manner. For though + the general idea or plan of campaign against the whales is the same in all + American whalers, every ship has some individual peculiarity of tactics, + which, needless to say, are always far superior to those of any other + ship. When we commenced our cruise on this new ground, there were seven + whalers in sight, all quite as keen on the chase as ourselves, so that I + anticipated considerable sport of the liveliest kind should we "raise" + whales with such a fleet close at hand. + </p> + <p> + But for a whole week we saw nothing but a grampus or so, a few loitering + finbacks, and an occasional lean humpback bull certainly not worth + chasing. On the seventh afternoon, however, I was in the main crow's-nest + with the chief, when I noticed a ship to windward of us alter her course, + keeping away three or four points on an angle that would presently bring + her across our bows a good way ahead. I was getting pretty well versed in + the tricks of the trade now, so I kept mum, but strained my eyes in the + direction for which the other ship was steering. The chief was looking + astern at some finbacks, the look-out men forward were both staring to + leeward, thus for a minute or so I had a small arc of the horizon to + myself. The time was short, but it sufficed, and for the first time that + voyage I had the privilege of "raising" a sperm whale. My voice quivered + with excitement as I uttered the war-whoop, "Ah blo-o-o-o-w!" Round spun + the mate on his heel, while the hands clustered like bees roused from + their hive. "Where away—where?" gasped the mate. And I pointed to a + spot about half a point on the lee bow, at the same time calling his + attention to the fact that the stranger to windward was keeping away. In + answer to the skipper's hurried queries from below, Mr. Count gave him the + general outline of affairs, to which he replied by crowding every stitch + of canvas on the vessel that was available. + </p> + <p> + The spout I had seen was a good ten miles off, and, for the present, + seemed to belong to a "lone" whale, as it was the only one visible. There + was a good breeze blowing, as much, in fact, as we could carry all sail + to, the old barky making a tremendous commotion as she blundered along + under the unusual press of canvas. In the excitement of the race all our + woes were forgotten; we only thought of the possibility of the ship + getting there first. We drew gradually nearer to the stranger, who, like + us, was carrying all the sail he had got, but, being able to go a point or + two free, was outsailing us. + </p> + <p> + It was anybody's race as yet, though, when we heard the skipper's hail, + "'Way down from aloft!" as he came up to take our place, The whale had + sounded, apparently heading to leeward, so that the weather-gage held by + our rival was not much advantage to him now. We ran on for another two + miles, then shortened sail, and stood by to lower away the moment he + should re-appear, Meanwhile another ship was working up from to leeward, + having evidently noted our movements, or else, like the albatross, "smelt + whale," no great distance to windward of him. Waiting for that whale to + rise was one of the most exciting experiences we had gone through as yet, + with two other ships so near. Everybody's nerves seemed strung up to + concert pitch, and it was quite a relief when from half a dozen throats at + once burst the cry, "There she white-waters! Ah blo-o-o-o-w!" Not a mile + away, dead to leeward of us, quietly beating the water with the flat of + his flukes, as if there was no such thing in the watery world as a + whale-ship. Splash! almost simultaneously went the four boats. Out we shot + from the ship, all on our mettle; for was not the skipper's eye upon us + from his lofty eyrie, as well as the crew of the other ship, now not more + than a mile away! We seemed a terrible time getting the sails up, but the + officers dared not risk our willingness to pull while they could be + independent of us. + </p> + <p> + By the time we were fairly off, the other ship's boats were coming like + the wind, so that eight boats were now converging upon the unconscious + monster. We fairly flew over the short, choppy sea, getting drenched with + the flying spray, but looking out far more keenly at the other boats than + at the whale. Up we came to him, Mr. Count's boat to the left, the other + mate's boat to the right. Almost at the same moment the irons flew from + the hands of the rival harpooners; but while ours was buried to the + hitches in the whale's side, the other man's just ploughed up the skin on + the animal's back, as it passed over him and pierced our boat close behind + the harpooner's leg. Not seeing what had happened to his iron, or knowing + that we were fast, the other harpooner promptly hurled his second iron, + which struck solidly. It was a very pretty tangle, but our position was + rather bad. The whale between us was tearing the bowels of the deep up in + his rage and fear; we were struggling frantically to get our sail down; + and at any moment that wretched iron through our upper strake might tear a + plank out of us. Our chief, foaming at the mouth with rage and excitement, + was screeching inarticulate blasphemy at the other mate, who, not knowing + what was the matter, was yelling back all his copious vocabulary of abuse. + I felt very glad the whale was between us, or there would surely have been + murder done. At last, out drops the iron, leaving a jagged hole you could + put your arm through. Wasn't Mr. Count mad? I really thought he would + split with rage, for it was impossible for us to go on with that hole in + our bilge. The second mate came alongside and took our line as the whale + was just commencing to sound, thus setting us free. We made at once for + the other ship's "fast" boat, and the compliments that had gone before + were just casual conversation to what filled the air with dislocated + language now. Presently both the champions cooled down a bit from want of + breath, and we got our case stated. It was received with a yell of + derision from the other side as a splendid effort of lying on our part; + because the first ship fast claims the whale, and such a prize as this one + we were quarrelling about was not to be tamely yielded. + </p> + <p> + However, as reason asserted her sway over Mr. Count, he quieted down, + knowing full well that the state of the line belonging to his rival would + reveal the truth when the whale rose again. Therefore we returned to the + ship, leaving our three boats busy waiting the whale's pleasure to rise + again. When the skipper heard what had happened, he had his own boat + manned, proceeding himself to the battle-field in expectation of + complications presently. By the time he arrived upon the scene there were + two more boats lying by, which had come up from the third ship, mentioned + as working up from to leeward. "Pretty fine ground this's got ter be!" + growled the old man. "Caint strike whale 'thout bein' crowded eout uv yer + own propputty by a gang bunco steerers like this. Shall hev ter quit it, + en keep a pawnshop." + </p> + <p> + And still the whale kept going steadily down, down, down. Already he was + on the second boat's lines, and taking them out faster than ever. Had we + been alone, this persistence on his part, though annoying, would not have + mattered much; but, with so many others in company, the possibilities of + complication, should we need to slip our end, were numerous. The ship kept + near, and Mr. Count, seeing how matters were going, had hastily patched + his boat, returning at once with another tub of line. He was but just in + time to bend on, when to our great delight we saw the end slip from our + rival's boat. This in no wise terminated his lien on the whale, supposing + he could prove that he struck first, but it got him out of the way for the + time. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile we were running line faster than ever. There was an enormous + length attached to the animal now—some twelve thousand feet—the + weight of which was very great, to say nothing of the many "drogues" or + "stopwaters" attached to it at intervals. Judge, then, of my surprise when + a shout of "Blo-o-o-w!" called my attention to the whale himself just + breaking water about half a mile away. It was an awkward predicament; for + if we let go our end, the others would be on the whale immediately; if we + held on, we should certainly be dragged below in a twinkling; and our + disengaged boats could do nothing, for they had no line. But the + difficulty soon settled itself. Out ran our end, leaving us bare of line + as pleasure skiffs. The newcomer, who had been prowling near, keeping a + close watch upon us, saw our boat jump up when released from the weight. + Off he flew like an arrow to the labouring leviathan, now a "free fish," + except for such claims as the two first-comers had upon it, which claims + are legally assessed, where no dispute arises. In its disabled condition, + dragging so enormous a weight of line, it was but a few minutes before the + fresh boat was fast, while we looked on helplessly, boiling with impotent + rage. All that we could now hope for was the salvage of some of our line, + a mile and a half of which, inextricably mixed up with about the same + length of our rival's, was towing astern of the fast-expiring cachalot. + </p> + <p> + So great had been the strain upon that hardly-used animal that he did not + go into his usual "flurry," but calmly expired without the faintest + struggle. In the mean time two of our boats had been sent on board again + to work the ship, while the skipper proceeded to try his luck in the + recovery of his gear. On arriving at the dead whale, however, we found + that he had rolled over and over beneath the water so many times that the + line was fairly frapped round him, and the present possessors were in no + mood to allow us the privilege of unrolling it. + </p> + <p> + During the conversation we had drawn very near the carcass, so near, in + fact, that one hand was holding the boat alongside the whale's "small" by + a bight of the line. I suppose the skipper's eagle eye must have caught + sight of the trailing part of the line streaming beneath, for suddenly he + plunged overboard, reappearing almost immediately with the line in his + hand. He scrambled into the boat with it, cutting it from the whale at + once, and starting his boat's crew hauling in. + </p> + <p> + Then there was a hubbub again. The captain of the NARRAGANSETT, our first + rival, protested vigorously against our monopoly of the line; but in grim + silence our skipper kept on, taking no notice of him, while we steadily + hauled. Unless he of the NARRAGANSETT choose to fight for what he + considered his rights, there was no help for him. And there was something + in our old man's appearance eminently calculated to discourage aggression + of any kind. + </p> + <p> + At last, disgusted apparently with the hopeless turn affairs had taken, + the NARRAGANSETT's boats drew off, and returned on board their ship. Two + of our boats had by this time accumulated a mountainous coil of line each, + with which we returned to our own vessel, leaving the skipper to visit the + present holder of the whale, the skipper of the JOHN HAMPDEN. + </p> + <p> + What arrangements they made, or how they settled the NARRAGANSETT's claim + between them, I never knew, but I dare say there was a costly law-suit + about it in New Bedford years after. + </p> + <p> + This was not very encouraging for a start, nor did the next week see us do + any better. Several times we saw other ships with whales alongside, but we + got no show at all. Now, I had hoped a great deal from our cruise on these + grounds, because I had heard whispers of a visit to the icy Sea of + Okhotsk, and the prospect was to me a horrible one. I never did take any + stock in Arctic work. But if we made a good season on the Japan grounds, + we should not go north, but gradually work down the Pacific again, on the + other side, cruising as we went. + </p> + <p> + Day after day went by without any fresh capture or even sight of fish, + until I began to believe that the stories I had heard of the wonderful + fecundity of the Coast of Japan waters were fables without foundation, in + fact. Had I known what sort of fishing our next bout would be, I should + not have been so eager to sight whales again. If this be not a platitude + of the worst kind, I don't know the meaning of the word; but, after all, + platitudes have their uses, especially when you want to state a fact + baldly. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XV. WHICH COMES UNCOMFORTABLY NEAR BEING THE LAST + </h2> + <p> + All unversed as I am in the finer shades of literary craftsmanship, there + is great uncertainty in my mind whether it is good or bad "art" to + anticipate your next chapter by foreshadowing its contents; but whether + good or bad art, the remembrance of my miseries on the eventful occasion I + wish to describe was so strong upon me as I wrote the last few lines of + the previous chapter that I just had to let those few words leak out. + </p> + <p> + Through all the vicissitudes of this strange voyage I had hitherto felt + pretty safe, and as the last thing a man anticipates (if his digestion is + all right) is the possibility of coming to grief himself while fully + prepared to see everybody else go under, so I had got to think that + whoever got killed I was not to be—a very pleasing sentiment, and + one that carries a man far, enabling him to face dangers with a light + heart which otherwise would make a nerveless animal of him. + </p> + <p> + In this optimistic mood, then, I gaily flung myself into my place in the + mate's boat one morning, as we were departing in chase of a magnificent + cachalot that had been raised just after breakfast. There were no other + vessels in sight—much to our satisfaction—the wind was light, + with a cloudless sky, and the whale was dead to leeward of us. We sped + along at a good rate towards our prospective victim, who was, in his + leisurely enjoyment of life, calmly lolling on the surface, occasionally + lifting his enormous tail out of water and letting it fall flat upon the + surface with a boom audible for miles. + </p> + <p> + We were as usual, first boat; but, much to the mate's annoyance, when we + were a short half-mile from the whale, our main-sheet parted. It became + immediately necessary to roll the sail up, lest its flapping should alarm + the watchful monster, and this delayed us sufficiently to allow the other + boats to shoot ahead of us. Thus the second mate got fast some seconds + before we arrived on the scene, seeing which we furled sail, unshipped the + mast, and went in on him with the oars only. At first the proceedings were + quite of the usual character, our chief wielding his lance in most + brilliant fashion, while not being fast to the animal allowed us much + greater freedom in our evolutions; but that fatal habit of the mate's—of + allowing his boat to take care of herself so long as he was getting in + some good home-thrusts—once more asserted itself. Although the whale + was exceedingly vigorous, churning the sea into yeasty foam over an + enormous area, there we wallowed close to him, right in the middle of the + turmoil, actually courting disaster. + </p> + <p> + He had just settled down for a moment, when, glancing over the gunwale, I + saw his tail, like a vast shadow, sweeping away from us towards the second + mate, who was laying off the other side of him. Before I had time to + think, the mighty mass of gristle leapt into the sunshine, curved back + from us like a huge bow. Then with a roar it came at us, released from its + tension of Heaven knows how many tons. Full on the broadside it struck us, + sending every soul but me flying out of the wreckage as if fired from + catapults. I did not go because my foot was jammed somehow in the well of + the boat, but the wrench nearly pulled my thigh-bone out of its socket. I + had hardly released my foot, when, towering above me, came the colossal + head of the great creature, as he ploughed through the bundle of debris + that had just been a boat. There was an appalling roar of water in my + ears, and darkness that might be felt all around. Yet, in the midst of it + all, one thought predominated as clearly as if I had been turning it over + in my mind in the quiet of my bunk aboard—"What if he should swallow + me?" Nor to this day can I understand how I escaped the portals of his + gullet, which of course gaped wide as a church door. But the agony of + holding my breath soon overpowered every other feeling and thought, till + just as something was going to snap inside my head I rose to the surface. + I was surrounded by a welter of bloody froth, which made it impossible for + me to see; but oh, the air was sweet! + </p> + <p> + I struck out blindly, instinctively, although I could feel so strong an + eddy that voluntary progress was out of the question. My hand touched and + clung to a rope, which immediately towed me in some direction—I + neither knew nor cared whither. Soon the motion ceased, and, with a + seaman's instinct, I began to haul myself along by the rope I grasped, + although no definite idea was in my mind as to where it was attached. + Presently I came butt up against something solid, the feel of which + gathered all my scattered wits into a compact knub of dread. It was the + whale! "Any port in a storm," I murmured, beginning to haul away again on + my friendly line. By dint of hard work I pulled myself right up the + sloping, slippery bank of blubber, until I reached the iron, which, as + luck would have it, was planted in that side of the carcass now uppermost. + Carcass I said—well, certainly I had no idea of there being any life + remaining within the vast mass beneath me, yet I had hardly time to take a + couple of turns round myself with the rope (or whale-line, as I had proved + it to be), when I felt the great animal quiver all over, and begin to + forge ahead. I was now composed enough to remember that help could not be + far away, and that my rescue, providing that I could keep above water, was + but a question of a few minutes. But I was hardly prepared for the whale's + next move. Being very near his end, the boat, or boats, had drawn off a + bit, I supposed, for I could see nothing of them. Then I remembered the + flurry. Almost at the same moment it began; and there was I, who with + fearful admiration had so often watched the titanic convulsions of a dying + cachalot, actually involved in them. The turns were off my body, but I was + able to twist a couple of turns round my arms, which, in case of his + sounding, I could readily let go. + </p> + <p> + Then all was lost in roar and rush, as of the heart of some mighty + cataract, during which I was sometimes above, sometimes beneath, the + water, but always clinging with every ounce of energy still left, to the + line. Now, one thought was uppermost—"What if he should breach?" I + had seen them do so when in flurry, leaping full twenty feet in the air. + Then I prayed. + </p> + <p> + Quickly as all the preceding changes had passed came perfect peace. There + I lay, still alive, but so weak that, although I could feel the turns + slipping off my arms, and knew that I should slide off the slope of the + whale's side into the sea if they did, I could make no effort to secure + myself. Everything then passed away from me, just as if I had gone to + sleep. + </p> + <p> + I do not at all understand how I kept my position, nor how long, but I + awoke to the blessed sound of voices, and saw the second mate's boat + alongside, Very gently and tenderly they lifted me into the boat, although + I could hardly help screaming with agony when they touched me, so bruised + and broken up did I feel. My arms must have been nearly torn from their + sockets, for the strands of the whale-line had cut deep into their flesh + with the strain upon it, while my thigh was swollen enormously from the + blow I received at the onset. Mr. Cruce was the most surprised man I think + I ever saw. For full ten minutes he stared at me with wide-open eyes. When + at last he spoke, it was with difficulty, as if wanting words to express + his astonishment. At last he blurted out, "Whar you bin all de time, + ennyhaow? 'Cawse ef you bin hangin' on to dat ar wale ev'sence you boat + smash, w'y de debbil you hain't all ter bits, hey?" I smiled feebly, but + was too weak to talk, and presently went off again into a dead faint. + </p> + <p> + When I recovered, I was snug in my bunk aboard, but aching in every joint, + and as sore as if I had been pounded with a club until I was bruised all + over. During the day Mr. Count was kind enough to pay me a visit. With his + usual luck, he had escaped without the slightest injury; neither was any + other member of the boat's crew the worse for the ducking but myself. He + told me that the whale was one of the largest he had ever seen, and as fat + as butter. The boat was an entire loss, so completely smashed to pieces + that nothing of her or her gear had been recovered. After spending about a + quarter of an hour with me, he left me considerably cheered up, promising + to look after me in the way of food, and also to send me some books. He + told me that I need not worry myself about my inability to be at work, + because the old man was not unfavourably disposed towards me, which piece + of news gave me a great deal of comfort. + </p> + <p> + When my poor, weary shipmates came below from their heavy toil of cutting + in, they were almost inclined to be envious of my comfort—small + blame to them—though I would gladly have taken my place among them + again, could I have got rid of my hurts. But I was condemned to lie there + for nearly three weeks before I was able to get about once more. In my + sleep I would undergo the horrible anticipation of sliding down that + awful, cavernous mouth over again, often waking with a shriek and drenched + with sweat. + </p> + <p> + While I lay there, three whales were caught, all small cows, and I was + informed that the skipper was getting quite disgusted with the luck. At + last I managed to get on deck, quite a different-looking man to when I + went below, and feeling about ten years older. I found the same sullen + quiet reigning that I had noticed several times before when we were + unfortunate. I fancied that the skipper looked more morose and savage than + ever, though of me, to my great relief, he took not the slightest notice. + </p> + <p> + The third day after my return to duty we sighted whales again. We lowered + three boats as promptly as usual; but when within about half a mile of the + "pod" some slight noise in one of the boats gallied them, and away they + went in the wind's eye, it blowing a stiffish breeze at the time, It was + from the first evidently a hopeless task to chase them, but we persevered + until recalled to the ship, dead beat with fatigue. I was not sorry, for + my recent adventure seemed to have made quite a coward of me, so much so + that an unpleasant gnawing at the pit of my stomach as we neared them + almost made me sick. I earnestly hoped that so inconvenient a feeling + would speedily leave me, or I should be but a poor creature in a boat. + </p> + <p> + In passing, I would like to refer to the wonderful way in which these + whales realize at a great distance, if the slightest sound be made, the + presence of danger. I do not use the word "hear" because so abnormally + small are their organs of hearing, the external opening being quite + difficult to find, that I do not believe they can hear at all well. But I + firmly believe they possess another sense by means of which they are able + to detect any unusual vibration of the waves of either air or sea at a far + greater distance than it would be possible for them to hear, Whatever this + power may be which they possess, all whalemen are well acquainted with + their exercise of it, and always take most elaborate precautions to render + their approach to a whale noiseless. + </p> + <p> + Our extraordinary want of success at last so annoyed the skipper that he + determined to quit the ground and go north. The near approach of the open + season in those regions probably hastened his decision, but I learned from + Goliath that he had always been known as a most fortunate man among the + "bowheads," as the great MYSTICETAE of that part of the Arctic seas are + called by the Americans. Not that there is any difference, as far as I + have been able to ascertain, between them and the "right" whale of the + Greenland seas, but from some caprice of nomenclature for which there is + no accounting. + </p> + <p> + So in leisurely fashion we worked north, keeping, of course, a bright + look-out all the way for straggling cachalots, but not seeing any. From + scraps of information that in some mysterious fashion leaked out, we + learned that we were bound to the Okhotsk Sea, it being no part of the + skipper's intentions to go prowling around Behrings Sea, where he believed + the whales to be few and far between. + </p> + <p> + It may be imagined that we of the crew were not at all pleased with this + intelligence, our life being, we considered, sufficiently miserable + without the addition of extreme cold, for we did not realize that in the + Arctic regions during summer the cold is by no means unbearable, and our + imagination pictured a horrible waste of perpetual ice and snow, in the + midst of which we should be compelled to freeze while dodging whales + through the crevices of the floes. But whether our pictures of the + prospects that awaited us were caricatures or no made not the slightest + difference. "Growl you may, but go you must" is an old sea-jingle of the + truest ring; but, while our going was inevitable, growling was a luxury + none of us dare indulge in. + </p> + <p> + We had by no means a bad passage to the Kuriles, which form a natural + barrier enclosing the immense area of the Okhotsk Sea from the vast + stretch of the Pacific. Around this great chain of islands the navigation + is exceedingly difficult, and dangerous as well, from the ever-varying + currents as from the frequent fogs and sudden storms. But these + impediments to swift and safe navigation are made light of by the + whalemen, who, as I feel never weary of remarking, are the finest + navigators in the world where speed is not the first consideration. + </p> + <p> + The most peculiar features of these inhospitable shores to a seaman are + the vast fields of seaweed surrounding them all, which certainly helps to + keep the sea down during gales, but renders navigation most difficult on + account of its concealment of hidden dangers. These islands are aptly + named, the word "Kurile" being Kamschatkan for smoke; and whether it be + regarded as given in consequence of the numerous volcanoes which pour + their fumes into the air, or the all-prevailing fog fostered by the Kuro + Siwo, or Japanese counterpart of the Gulf stream, the designation is + equally appropriate. + </p> + <p> + We entered the Okhotsk Sea by the Nadeshda Channel, so-named after Admiral + Krusenstern's ship, which was the first civilized vessel that passed + through its turbulent waters. It separates the islands Rashau and Mantaua + by about twenty miles, yet so conflicting and violent are the currents + which eddy and swirl in all parts of it, that without a steady, strong, + fair wind it is most dangerous to a sailing vessel. Thenceforward the + navigation was free from difficulty, or at least none that we could + recognize as such, so we gave all our attention to the business which + brought us there. + </p> + <p> + Scarcely any change was needed in our equipment, except the substitution + of longer harpoons for those we had been using, and the putting away of + the bomb-guns. These changes were made because the blubber of the bowhead + is so thick that ordinary harpoons will not penetrate beyond it to the + muscle, which, unless they do, renders them liable to draw, upon a heavy + strain. As for the bombs, Yankees hold the mysticetae in such supreme + contempt that none of them would dream of wasting so expensive a weapon as + a bomb upon them. I was given to understand by my constant crony, Mistah + Jones, that there was no more trouble in killing a bowhead than in + slaughtering a sheep; and that while it was quite true that accidents DID + occur, they were entirely due to the carelessness or clumsiness of the + whalemen, and not in any way traceable to a desire on the victim's part to + do any one harm. + </p> + <p> + The sea was little encumbered with ice, it being now late in June, so that + our progress was not at all impeded by the few soft, brashy floes that we + encountered, none of them hard enough to do a ship's hull any damage. In + most places the sea was sufficiently shallow to permit of our anchoring. + For this purpose we used a large kedge, with stout hawser for cable, never + furling all the sails in case of a strong breeze suddenly springing up, + which would cause us to drag. This anchoring was very comfortable. Besides + allowing us to get much more rest than when on other cruising-grounds, we + were able to catch enormous quantities of fish, mostly salmon, of which + there were no less than fourteen varieties. So plentiful were these + splendid fish that we got quite critical in our appreciation of them, very + soon finding that one kind, known as the "nerker," was far better + flavoured than any of the others. But as the daintiest food palls the + quickest, it was not long before we got tired of salmon, and wished most + heartily for beef. + </p> + <p> + Much fun has been made of the discontent of sailors. With food which is + considered a luxury ashore, and wonder expressed that if, as we assert, + the ordinary dietary of the seaman be so bad, he should be so ready to + rebel when fed with delicacies. But in justice to the sailor, it ought to + be remembered that the daintiest food may be rendered disgusting by bad + cookery, such as is the rule on board merchant ships. "God sends meat, but + the devil sends cooks" is a proverb which originated on board ship, and no + one who has ever served any time in a ship's forecastle would deny that it + is abundantly justified. Besides which, even good food well cooked of one + kind only, served many times in succession, becomes very trying, only the + plainest foods, such as bread, rice, potatoes, etc., retaining their + command of the appetite continually. + </p> + <p> + I remember once, when upon the Coromandel coast in a big Greenock ship, we + found fowls very cheap. At Bimliapatam the captain bought two or three + hundred, which, as we had no coops, were turned loose on deck. We had also + at the same time prowling about the decks three goats, twenty pigs, and + two big dogs. + </p> + <p> + Consequently the state of the ship was filthy, nor could all our efforts + keep her clean. This farmyard condition of things was permitted to + continue for about a week, when the officers got so tired of it, and the + captain so annoyed at the frequent loss of fowls by their flying + overboard, that the edict went forth to feed the foremast hands on poultry + till further orders. Great was our delight at the news. Fowl for dinner + represented to our imagination almost the apex of high living, only + indulged in by such pampered children of fortune as the officers of ships + or well-to-do people ashore. + </p> + <p> + When dinner-time arrived, we boys made haste to the galley with watering + mouths, joyfully anticipating that rare delight of the sailor—a good + "feed." The cook uncovered his coppers, plunged his tormentors therein, + and produced such a succession of ugly corpses of fowls as I had never + seen before. To each man a whole one was allotted, and we bore the + steaming hecatomb into the forecastle. The boisterous merriment became + hushed at our approach, and faces grew lengthy when the unwholesome aspect + of the "treat" was revealed. Each man secured his bird, and commenced + operations. But oh, the disappointment, and the bad words! What little + flesh there was upon the framework of those unhappy fowls was like leather + itself, and utterly flavourless. It could not well have been otherwise. + The feathers had been simply scalded off, the heads chopped off, and + bodies split open to facilitate drawing (I am sure I wonder the cook took + the trouble to do that much), and thus prepared they were cast into a + cauldron of boiling salt water. There, with the water fiercely bubbling, + they were kept for an hour and a half, then pitchforked out into the mess + kid and set before us. We simply could not eat them; no one but a Noumean + Kanaka could, for his teeth are equal to husking a cocoa-nut, or chopping + off a piece of sugar-cane as thick as your wrist. + </p> + <p> + After much heated discussion, it was unanimously resolved to protest at + once against the substitution of such a fraud as this poultry for our + legitimate rations of "salt horse." so, bearing the DISJECTA MEMBRA of our + meal, the whole crowd marched aft, and requested an interview with the + skipper. He came out of the cabin at once, saying, "Well, boys, what's the + matter?" The spokesman, a bald-headed Yankee, who had been bo'sun's mate + of an American man-of-war, stepped forward and said, offering his kid, + "Jest have a look at that sir." The skipper looked, saying, inquiringly, + "Well?" "D'yew think, sir," said Nat, "THET'S proper grub for men?" + "Proper grub! Why, you old sinner, you don't mean to say you're goin' to + growl about havin' chicken for dinner?" "Well, sir, it depends muchly upon + the chicken. All I know is, that I've et some dam queer tack in my time, + but sence I ben fishin' I never had no such bundles of sticks parcelled + with leather served out to me. I HEV et boot—leastways gnawed it; + when I was cast away in a open boat for three weeks—but it wa'n't + bad boot, as boots go. Now, if yew say that these things is boots, en thet + it's necessary we should eat'em, or starve, w'y, we'll think about it. But + if yew call'em chickens,'n say you're doin' us a kindness by stoppin' + our'lowance of meat wile we're wrastlin' with 'em, then we say we don't + feel obliged to yew, 'n 'll thank yew kindly to keep such lugsuries for + yerself, 'n give us wot we signed for." A murmur of assent confirmed this + burst of eloquence, which we all considered a very fine effort indeed. A + moment's silence ensued; then the skipper burst out, "I've often heard of + such things, but hang me if I ever believed 'em till now! You ungrateful + beggars! I'll see you get your whack, and no more, from this out. When you + get any little extras aboard this ship agen, you'll be thankful for 'em; + now I tell you." "All right, sir," said Nat; "so long as we don't hev to + chaw any more of yer biled Bimly crows, I dessay we shall worry along as + usual." And, as the Parliamentary reports say, the proceedings then + terminated. + </p> + <p> + Now, suppose the skipper had told the story to some of his shore friends, + how very funny the sailors' conduct would have been made to appear. + </p> + <p> + On another occasion long after, when I was mate of a barque loading + mahogany in Tonala, Mexico, the skipper thought he would practise economy + by buying a turtle instead of beef. A large turtle was obtained for + twenty-five cents, and handed over to the cook to be dealt with, + particular instructions being given him as to the apportionment of the + meat. + </p> + <p> + At eight bells there was a gathering of the men in front of the poop, and + a summons for the captain. When he appeared, the usual stereotyped + invitation to "have a look at THAT, if you please, sir," was uttered. The + skipper was, I think, prepared for a protest, for he began to bluster + immediately. "Look here!" he bawled, "I ain't goin' to 'ave any of your + dam nonsense. You WANT somethin' to growl about, you do." "Well, Cap'n + George," said one of the men, "you shorely don't think we k'n eat shells, + do yer?" Just then I caught sight of the kid's contents, and could hardly + restrain my indignation. For in a dirty heap, the sight of which might + have pleased an Esquimaux, but was certainly enough to disgust any + civilized man, lay the calipee, or under-shell of the turtle, hacked into + irregular blocks. It had been simply boiled, and flung into the kid, an + unclean, disgusting heap of shell, with pieces of dirty flesh attached in + ragged lumps. But the skipper, red-faced and angry, answered, "W'y, yer + so-and-so ijits, that's wot the Lord Mayor of London gives about a guinea + a hounce for w'en 'e feeds lords n' dooks. Only the haristocracy at 'ome + get a charnce to stick their teeth in such grub as that. An' 'ere are you + lot a-growlin' at 'avin' it for a change!" "That's all right, cap'n," said + the man; "bein' brort up ter such lugsuries, of corse you kin appreshyate + it. So if yer keep it fer yer own eatin', an' giv us wot we signed for, we + shall be werry much obliged." "Now, I ain't a-goin' to 'ave none o' YOUR + cheek, so you'd better git forrard. You can betcher life you won't get no + more fresh messes this voy'ge." So, with grumbling and ill-will on both + sides, the conference came to an end. But I thought, and still think, that + the mess set before those men, who had been working hard since six a.m., + was unfit for the food of a good dog. + </p> + <p> + Out of my own experience I might give many other instances of the kind, + but I hope these will suffice to show that Jack's growling is often + justified, when both sides of the story are heard. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVI. "BOWHEAD" FISHING + </h2> + <p> + Day and night being now only distinguishable by the aid of the clock, a + constant look-out aloft was kept all through the twenty-four hours, watch + and watch, but whales were apparently very scarce. We did a good deal of + "pelagic" sealing; that is, catching seals swimming. But the total number + obtained was not great, for these creatures are only gregarious when at + their rocky haunts during the breeding season, or among the ice just + before that season begins. Our sealing, therefore, was only a way of + passing the time in the absence of nobler game, to be abandoned at once + with whales in sight. + </p> + <p> + It was on the ninth or tenth morning after our arrival on the grounds that + a bowhead was raised, And two boats sent after him. It was my first sight + of the great MYSTICETUS, and I must confess to being much impressed by his + gigantic bulk. From the difference in shape, he looked much larger than + the largest sperm whale we had yet seen, although we had come across some + of the very biggest specimens of cachalot. + </p> + <p> + The contrast between the two animals is most marked, so much so, in fact, + that one would hardly credit them with belonging to the same order. + Popular ideas of the whale are almost invariably taken from the + MYSTICETUS, so that the average individual generally defines a whale as a + big fish which spouts water out of the top of his head, and cannot swallow + a herring. Indeed, so lately as last year a popular M.P., writing to one + of the religious papers, allowed himself to say that "science will not + hear of a whale with a gullet capable of admitting anything larger than a + man's fist"—a piece of crass ignorance, which is also perpetrated in + the appendix to a very widely-distributed edition of the Authorized + Version of the Bible. This opinion, strangely enough, is almost + universally held, although I trust that the admirable models now being + shown in our splendid Natural History Museum at South Kensington will do + much to remove it. Not so many people, perhaps, believe that a whale is a + fish, instead of a mammal, but few indeed are the individuals who do not + still think that a cetacean possesses a sort of natural fountain on the + top of its head, whence, for some recondite reason, it ejects at regular + intervals streams of water into the air. + </p> + <p> + But a whale can no more force water through its spiracle or blow-hole than + you or I through our nostrils. It inhales, when at the surface, + atmospheric air, and exhales breath like ours, which, coming warm into a + cooler medium, becomes visible, as does our breath on a frosty morning. + </p> + <p> + Now, the MYSTICETUS carries his nostrils on the summit of his head, or + crown, the orifice being closed by a beautifully arranged valve when the + animal is beneath the water. Consequently, upon coming to the surface to + breathe, he sends up a jet of visible breath into the air some ten or + twelve feet. The cachalot, on the other hand, has the orifice at the point + of his square snout, the internal channel running in a slightly diagonal + direction downwards, and back through the skull to the lungs. So when he + spouts, the breath is projected forward diagonally, and, from some + peculiarity which I do not pretend to explain, expends itself in a short, + bushy tuft of vapour, very distinct from the tall vertical spout of the + bowhead or right whale. + </p> + <p> + There was little or no wind when we sighted the individual I am now + speaking of, so we did not attempt to set sail, but pulled straight for + him "head and head." Strange as it may appear, the MYSTICETUS' best point + of view is right behind, or "in his wake," as we say; it is therefore part + of the code to approach him from right ahead, in which direction he cannot + see at all. Some time before we reached him he became aware of our + presence, showing by his uneasy actions that he had his doubts about his + personal security. But before he had made up his mind what to do we were + upon him, with our harpoons buried in his back. The difference in his + behaviour to what we had so long been accustomed to was amazing. He did + certainly give a lumbering splash or two with his immense flukes, but no + one could possibly have been endangered by them. The water was so shallow + that when he sounded it was but for a very few minutes; there was no + escape for him that way. As soon as he returned to the surface he set off + at his best gait, but that was so slow that we easily hauled up close + alongside of him, holding the boats in that position without the slightest + attempt to guard ourselves from reprisals on his part, while the officers + searched his vitals with the lances as if they were probing a haystack. + </p> + <p> + Really, the whole affair was so tame that it was impossible to get up any + fighting enthusiasm over it; the poor, unwieldy creature died meekly and + quietly as an overgrown seal. In less than an hour from the time of + leaving the ship we were ready to bring our prize alongside. + </p> + <p> + Upon coming up to the whale, sail was shortened, and as soon as the + fluke-chain was passed we anchored. It was, I heard, our skipper's boast + that he could "skin a bowhead in forty minutes;" and although we were + certainly longer than that, the celerity with which what seemed a gigantic + task was accomplished was marvellous. Of course, it was all plain-sailing, + very unlike the complicated and herculean task inevitable at the + commencement of cutting-in a sperm whale. + </p> + <p> + Except for the head work, removing the blubber was effected in precisely + the same way as in the case of the cachalot. There was a marked difference + between the quantity of lard enveloping this whale and those we had + hitherto dealt with. It was nearly double the thickness, besides being + much richer in oil, which fairly dripped from it as we hoisted in the + blanket-pieces. The upper jaw was removed for its long plates of whalebone + or baleen—that valuable substance which alone makes it worth while + nowadays to go after the MYSTICETUS, the price obtained for the oil being + so low as to make it not worth while to fit out ships to go in search of + it alone. "Trying-out" the blubber, with its accompaniments, is carried on + precisely as with the sperm whale. The resultant oil, when recent, is of a + clear white, unlike the golden-tinted fluid obtained from the cachalot. As + it grows stale it developes a nauseous smell, which sperm does not, + although the odour of the oil is otto of roses compared with the horrible + mass of putridity landed from the tanks of a Greenland whaler at the + termination of a cruise. For in those vessels, the fishing-time at their + disposal being so brief, they do not wait to boil down the blubber, but, + chopping it into small pieces, pass it below as it is into tanks, to be + rendered down by the oil-mills ashore on the ship's return. + </p> + <p> + This first bowhead yielded us eighteen tuns of oil and a ton of baleen, + which made the catch about equal in value to that of a seven-tun cachalot. + But the amount of labour and care necessary in order to thoroughly dry and + cleanse the baleen was enormous; in fact, for months after we began the + bowhead fishery there was almost always something being done with the + wretched stuff—drying, scraping, etc.—which, as it was kept + below, also necessitated hoisting it up on deck and getting it down again. + </p> + <p> + After this beginning, it was again a considerable time before we sighted + any more; but when we did, there were quite a number of them—enough + to employ all the boats with one each. I was out of the fun this time, + being almost incapable of moving by reason of several boils on my legs—the + result, I suppose, of a long abstinence from fresh vegetables, or anything + to supply their place. + </p> + <p> + As it happened, however, I lost no excitement by remaining on board; for + while all the boats were away a large bowhead rose near the ship, + evidently being harassed in some way by enemies, which I could not at + first see. He seemed quite unconscious of his proximity to the ship, + though, and at last came so near that the whole performance was as visible + as if it had been got up for my benefit. Three "killers" were attacking + him at once, like wolves worrying a bull, except that his motions were far + less lively than those of any bull would have been. + </p> + <p> + The "killer," or ORCA GLADIATOR, is a true whale, but, like the cachalot, + has teeth. He differs from that great cetacean, though, in a most + important particular; i.e. by having a complete set in both upper and + lower jaws, like any other carnivore. For a carnivore indeed is he, the + very wolf of the ocean, and enjoying, by reason of his extraordinary + agility as well as comparative worthlessness commercially, complete + immunity from attack by man. By some authorities he is thought to be + identical with the grampus, but whalers all consider the animals quite + distinct. Not having had very long acquaintance with them both, I cannot + speak emphatically upon this difference of opinion; so far as personal + observation goes, I agree with the whalers in believing that there is much + variation both of habits and shape between them. + </p> + <p> + But to return to the fight. The first inkling I got of what was really + going on was the leaping of a killer high into the air by the side of the + whale, and descending upon the victim's broad, smooth back with a + resounding crash. I saw that the killer was provided with a pair of huge + fins—one on his back, the other on his belly—which at first + sight looked as if they were also weapons of offence. A little observation + convinced me that they were fins only. Again and again the aggressor + leaped into the air, falling each time on the whale's back, as if to beat + him into submission. + </p> + <p> + The sea around foamed and boiled like a cauldron, so that it was only + occasional glimpses I was able to catch of the two killers, until + presently the worried whale lifted his head clear out of the surrounding + smother, revealing the two furies hanging—one on either side—to + his lips, as if endeavouring to drag his mouth open—which I + afterwards saw was their principal object, as whenever during the tumult I + caught sight of them, they were still in the same position. At last the + tremendous and incessant blows, dealt by the most active member of the + trio, seemed actually to have exhausted the immense vitality of the great + bowhead, for he lay supine upon the surface. Then the three joined their + forces, and succeeded in dragging open his cavernous mouth, into which + they freely entered, devouring his tongue. This, then, had been their sole + object, for as soon as they had finished their barbarous feast they + departed, leaving him helpless and dying to fall an easy prey to our + returning boats. + </p> + <p> + Thus, although the four whales captured by the boats had been but small, + the day's take, augmented by so great a find, was a large one, and it was + a long time before we got clear of the work it entailed. + </p> + <p> + From that time forward we saw no whales for six weeks, and, from the + reports we received from two whalers we "gammed," it appeared that we + might consider ourselves most fortunate in our catch, since they, who had + been longer on the ground than ourselves, had only one whale apiece. + </p> + <p> + In consequence of this information, Captain Slocum decided to go south + again, and resume the sperm whaling in the North Pacific, near the line—at + least so the rumour ran; but as we never heard anything definitely, we + could not feel at all certain of our next destination. + </p> + <p> + Ever since the fracas at the Bonins between Goliath and his watch, the + relations between Captain Slocum and the big negro had been very strained. + Even before the outbreak, as I have remarked upon one occasion, it was + noticeable that little love was lost between them. Why this was so, + without anything definite to guide one's reasoning, was difficult to + understand, for a better seaman or a smarter whaleman than Mistah Jones + did not live—of that every one was quite sure. Still, there was no + gainsaying the fact that, churlish and morose as our skipper's normal + temper always was, he was never so much so as in his behaviour towards his + able fourth mate, who, being a man of fine, sensitive temper, chafed under + his unmerited treatment so much as to lose flesh, becoming daily more + silent, nervous, and depressed. Still, there had never been an open + rupture, nor did it appear as if there would be, so great was the power + Captain Slocum possessed over the will of everybody on board. + </p> + <p> + One night, however, as we were nearing the Kuriles again, on our way + south, leaving the Sea of Okhotsk, I was sitting on the fore side of the + try-works alone, meditating upon what I would do when once I got clear of + this miserable business. Futile and foolish, no doubt, my speculations + were, but only in this way could I forget for a while my surroundings, + since the inestimable comfort of reading was denied me. I had been sitting + thus absorbed in thought for nearly an hour, when Goliath came and seated + himself by my side. We had always been great friends, although, owing to + the strict discipline maintained on board, it was not often we got a + chance for a "wee bit crack," as the Scotch say. Besides, I was not in his + watch, and even now he should rightly have been below. He sat for a minute + or two silent; then, as if compelled to speak, he began in low, fierce + whispers to tell me of his miserable state of mind. At last, after + recapitulating many slights and insults he had received silently from the + captain, of which I had previously known nothing, he became strangely + calm. In tones quite unlike his usual voice, he said that he was not an + American-born negro, but a pure African, who had been enslaved in his + infancy, with his mother, somewhere in the "Hinterland" of Guinea. While + still a child, his mother escaped with him into Liberia, a where he had + remained till her death, She was, according to him, an Obeah woman of + great power, venerated exceedingly by her own people for her prophetic + abilities. Before her death, she had told him that he would die suddenly, + violently, in a struggle with a white man in a far-off country, but that + the white man would die too by his hand. She had also told him that he + would be a great traveller and hunter upon the sea. As he went on, his + speech became almost unintelligible, being mingled with fragments of a + language I had never heard before; moreover, he spoke as a man who is only + half awake. A strange terror got hold of me, for I began to think he was + going mad, and perhaps about to run a-mok, as the Malays do when driven + frantic by the infliction of real or fancied wrongs. + </p> + <p> + But he gradually returned to his old self, to my great relief, and I + ventured somewhat timidly to remind him of the esteem in which he was held + by all hands; even the skipper, I ventured to say, respected him, + although, from some detestable form of ill-humour, he had chosen to be so + sneering and insulting towards him. He shook his head sadly, and said, "My + dear boy, youse de only man aboard dis ship—wite man, dat is—dat + don't hate an' despise me becawse ob my colour, wich I cain't he'p; an' de + God you beliebe in bless you fer dat. As fer me, w'at I done tole you's + true,'n befo' bery little w'ile you see it COME true. 'N w'en DAT happens + w'at's gwine ter happen, I'se real glad to tink it gwine ter be better fer + you—gwine ter be better fer eberybody 'bord de CACH'LOT; but I doan + keer nuffin 'bout anybody else. So long." He held out his great black + hand, and shook mine heartily, while a big tear rolled down his face and + fell on the deck. And with that he left me a prey to a very whirlpool of + conflicting thoughts and fears. + </p> + <p> + The night was a long and weary one—longer and drearier perhaps + because of the absence of the darkness, which always made it harder to + sleep. An incessant day soon becomes, to those accustomed to the relief of + the night, a burden grievous to be borne; and although use can reconcile + us to most things, and does make even the persistent light bearable, in + times of mental distress or great physical weariness one feels + irresistibly moved to cry earnestly, "Come, gentle night." + </p> + <p> + When I came on deck at eight bells, it was a stark calm. The watch, under + Mistah Jones' direction, were busy scrubbing decks with the usual + thoroughness, while the captain, bare-footed, with trouser-legs and + shirt-sleeves rolled up, his hands on his hips and a portentous frown on + his brow, was closely looking on. As it was my spell at the crow's-nest, I + made at once for the main-rigging, and had got halfway to the top, when + some unusual sounds below arrested me. + </p> + <p> + All hands were gathered in the waist, a not unusual thing at the changing + of the watch. In the midst of them, as I looked down, two men came + together in a fierce struggle. They were Goliath and the skipper. Captain + Slocum's right hand went naturally to his hip pocket, where he always + carried a revolver; but before he could draw it, the long, black arms of + his adversary wrapped around him, making him helpless as a babe. Then, + with a rush that sent every one flying out of his way, Goliath hurled + himself at the bulwarks, which were low, the top of the rail about + thirty-three inches from the deck. The two bodies struck the rail with a + heavy thud, instantly toppling overboard. That broke the spell that bound + everybody, so that there was an instantaneous rush to the side. Only a + hardly noticeable ripple remained on the surface of the placid sea. + </p> + <p> + But, from my lofty perch, the whole of the ghastly struggle had been + visible to the least detail. The two men had struck the water locked in + closest embrace, which relaxed not even when far below the surface. When + the sea is perfectly smooth, objects are visible from aloft at several + feet depth, though apparently diminished in size. The last thing I saw was + Captain Slocum's white face, with its starting black eyes looking their + last upon the huge, indefinite hull of the ship whose occupants he had + ruled so long and rigidly. + </p> + <p> + The whole tragedy occupied such a brief moment of time that it was almost + impossible to realize that it was actual. Reason, however, soon regained + her position among the officers, who ordered the closest watch to be kept + from aloft, in case of the rising of either or both of the men. A couple + of boats were swung, ready to drop on the instant. But, as if to crown the + tragedy with completeness, a heavy squall, which had risen unnoticed, + suddenly burst upon the ship with great fury, the lashing hail and rain + utterly obscuring vision even for a few yards. So unexpected was the onset + of this squall that, for the only time that voyage, we lost some canvas + through not being able to get it in quick enough. The topgallant halyards + were let go; but while the sails were being clewed up, the fierce wind + following the rain caught them from their confining gear, rending them + into a thousand shreds. For an hour the squall raged—a tempest in + brief—then swept away to the south-east on its furious journey, + leaving peace again. Needless perhaps to say, that after such a squall it + was hopeless to look for our missing ones. The sudden storm had certainly + driven us several miles away front the spot where they disappeared, and, + although we carefully made what haste was possible back along the line we + were supposed to have come, not a vestige of hope was in any one's mind + that we should ever see them again. + </p> + <p> + Nor did we. Whether that madness, which I had feared was coming upon + Goliath during our previous night's conversation, suddenly overpowered him + and impelled him to commit the horrible deed, what more had passed between + him and the skipper to even faintly justify so awful a retaliation—these + things were now matters of purest speculation. As if they had never been, + the two men were blotted out—gone before God in full-blown heat of + murder and revengeful fury. + </p> + <p> + On the same evening Mr. Count mustered all hands on the quarter-deck, and + addressed us thus: "Men, Captain Slocum is dead, and, as a consequence, I + command the ship. Behave yourself like men, not presuming upon kindness or + imagining that I am a weak, vacillating old man with whom you can do as + you like, and you will find in me a skipper who will do his duty by you as + far as lies in his power, nor expect more from you than you ought to + render. If, however, you DO try any tricks, remember that I am an old + hand, equal to most of the games that men get up to. I do want—if + you will help me—to make this a comfortable as well as a successful + ship. I hope with all my heart we shall succeed." + </p> + <p> + In answer to this manly and affecting little speech, which confirmed my + previous estimate of Captain Count's character, were he but free to follow + the bent of his natural, kindly inclinations, and which I have endeavoured + to translate out of his usual dialect, a hearty cheer was raised by all + hands, the first ebullition of general good feeling manifested throughout + the voyage. Hearts rose joyfully at the prospect of comfort to be gained + by thoughtfulness on the part of the commander; nor from that time forward + did any sign of weariness of the ship or voyage show itself among us, + either on deck or below. + </p> + <p> + The news soon spread among us that, in consequence of the various losses + of boats and gear, the captain deemed it necessary to make for Honolulu, + where fresh supplies could readily be obtained. We had heard many glowing + accounts from visitors, when "gamming," of the delights of this well-known + port of call for whalers, and under our new commander we had little doubt + that we should be allowed considerable liberty during our stay. So we were + quite impatient to get along fretting considerably at the persistent fogs + which prevented our making much progress while in the vicinity of the + Kuriles. But we saw no more bowheads, for which none of us forward were at + all sorry. We had got very tired of the stink of their blubber, and the + never-ending worry connected with the preservation of the baleen; besides, + we had not yet accumulated any fund of enthusiasm about getting a full + ship, except as a reason for shortening the voyage, and we quite + understood that what black oil we had got would be landed at Hawaii, so + that our visit to the Okhotsk Sea, with its resultant store of oil, had + not really brought our return home any nearer, as we at first hoped it + would. + </p> + <p> + A great surprise was in store for me. I knew that Captain Count was + favourably inclined towards me, for he had himself told me so, but nothing + was further from my thoughts than promotion. However, one Sunday + afternoon, when we were all peacefully enjoying the unusual rest (we had + no Sundays in Captain Slocum's time), the captain sent for me. He informed + me that, after mature consideration, he had chosen me to fill the vacancy + made by the death of Mistah Jones. Mr. Cruce was now mate; the waspish + little third had become second; Louis Silva, the captain's favourite + harpooner was third; and I was to be fourth. Not feeling at all sure of + how the other harpooners would take my stepping over their heads, I + respectfully demurred to the compliment offered me, stating my reasons. + But the captain said he had fully made up his mind, after consultation + with the other officers, and that I need have no apprehension on the score + of the harpooners' jealousy; that they had been spoken to on the subject, + and they were all agreed that the captain's choice was the best, + especially as none of them knew anything of navigation, or could write + their own names. + </p> + <p> + In consequence of there being none of the crew fit to take a harpooner's + place, I was now really harpooner of the captain's boat, which he would + continue to work, when necessary, until we were able to ship a harpooner, + which he hoped to do at Hawaii. + </p> + <p> + The news of my promotion was received in grim silence by the Portuguese + forward, but the white men all seemed pleased. This was highly gratifying + to me, for I had tried my best to be helpful to all, as far as my limited + abilities would let me; nor do I think I had an enemy in the ship. Behold + me, then, a full-blown "mister," with a definite substantial increase in + my prospects of pay of nearly one-third, in addition to many other + advantages, which, under the new captain, promised exceedingly well. + </p> + <p> + More than half the voyage lay behind us, looking like the fast-settling + bank of storm-clouds hovering above the tempest-tossed sea so lately + passed, while ahead the bright horizon was full of promise of fine weather + for the remainder of the journey. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVII. VISIT TO HONOLULU + </h2> + <p> + Right glad were we all when, after much fumbling and box-hauling about, we + once more felt the long, familiar roll of the Pacific swell, and saw the + dim fastnesses of the smoky islands fading into the lowering gloom astern. + Most deep-water sailors are familiar, by report if not by actual contact, + with the beauties of the Pacific islands, and I had often longed to visit + them to see for myself whether the half that had been told me was true. Of + course, to a great number of seafaring men, the loveliness of those + regions counts for nothing, their desirability being founded upon the + frequent opportunities of unlimited indulgence in debauchery. To such men, + a "missionary" island is a howling wilderness, and the missionaries + themselves the subjects of the vilest abuse as well as the most boundless + lying. + </p> + <p> + No one who has travelled with his eyes open would assert that all + missionaries were wise, prudent, or even godly men; while it is a great + deal to be regretted that so much is made of hardships which in a large + proportion of cases do not exist, the men who are supposed to be enduring + them being immensely better off and more comfortable than they would ever + have been at home. Undoubtedly the pioneers of missionary enterprise had, + almost without exception, to face dangers and miseries past telling, but + that is the portion of pioneers in general. In these days, however, the + missionary's lot in Polynesia is not often a hard one, and in many cases + it is infinitely to be preferred to a life among the very poor of our + great cities. + </p> + <p> + But when all has been said that can be said against the missionaries, the + solid bastion of fact remains that, in consequence of their labours, the + whole vile character of the populations of the Pacific has been changed, + and where wickedness runs riot to-day, it is due largely to the hindrances + placed in the way of the noble efforts of the missionaries by the + unmitigated scoundrels who vilify them. The task of spreading Christianity + would not, after all, be so difficult were it not for the efforts of those + apostles of the devil to keep the islands as they would like them to be—places + where lust runs riot day and night, murder may be done with impunity, + slavery flourishes, and all evil may be indulged in free from law, order, + or restraint. + </p> + <p> + It speaks volumes for the inherent might of the Gospel that, in spite of + the object-lessons continually provided for the natives by white men of + the negation of all good, that it has stricken its roots so deeply into + the soil of the Pacific islands. Just as the best proof of the reality of + the Gospel here in England is that it survives the incessant assaults upon + it from within by its professors, by those who are paid, and highly paid, + to propagate it, by the side of whose deadly doings the efforts of + so-called infidels are but as the battery of a summer breeze; so in + Polynesia, were not the principles of Christianity vital with an immortal + and divine life, missionary efforts might long ago have ceased in utter + despair at the fruitlessness of the field. + </p> + <p> + We were enjoying a most uneventful passage, free from any serious changes + either of wind or weather which quiet time was utilised to the utmost in + making many much-needed additions to the running-gear, repairing rigging, + etc. Any work involving the use of new material had been put off from time + to time during the previous part of the voyage till the ship aloft was + really in a dangerous condition. This was due entirely to the peculiar + parsimony of our late skipper, who could scarcely bring himself to broach + a coil of rope, except for whaling purposes. The same false economy had + prevailed with regard to paint and varnish, so that the vessel, while + spotlessly clean, presented a worn-out weather-beaten appearance. Now, + while the condition of life on board was totally different to what it had + been, as regards comfort and peace, discipline and order were maintained + at the same high level as always, though by a different method—in + fact, I believe that a great deal more work was actually done, certainly + much more that was useful and productive; for Captain Count hated, as much + as any foremast hand among us, the constant, remorseless grind of + iron-work polishing, paint-work scrubbing, and holystoning, all of which, + though necessary in a certain degree, when kept up continually for the + sole purpose of making work—a sort of elaborated tread-mill, in fact—becomes + the refinement of cruelty to underfed, unpaid, and hopeless men. + </p> + <p> + So, while the CACHALOT could have fearlessly challenged comparison with + any ship afloat for cleanliness and neatness of appearance, the hands no + longer felt that they were continually being "worked up" or "hazed" for + the sole, diabolical satisfaction of keeping them "at it." Of course, the + incidence of the work was divided, since so many of the crew were quite + unable to do any sailorizing, as we term work in sails and rigging. Upon + them, then, fell all the common labour, which can be done by any unskilled + man or woman afloat or ashore. + </p> + <p> + Of this work a sailor's duties are largely made up, but when good people + ashore wonder "whatever sailors do with their time," it would be useful + for them to remember that a ship is a huge and complicated machine, + needing constant repairs, which can only be efficiently performed by + skilled workmen. An "A.B." or able seaman's duties are legally supposed to + be defined by the three expressions, "hand, reef, and steer." If he can do + those three things, which mean furling or making fast sails, reefing them, + and steering the ship, his wages cannot be reduced for incompetency. Yet + these things are the A B C of seamanship only. A good SEAMAN is able to + make all the various knots, splices, and other arrangements in hempen or + wire rope, without which a ship cannot be rigged; he can make a sail, send + up or down yards and masts, and do many other things, the sum total of + which need several years of steady application to learn, although a good + seaman is ever learning. + </p> + <p> + Such seamen are fast becoming extinct. They are almost totally unnecessary + in steamships, except when the engines break down in a gale of wind, and + the crowd of navvies forming the crew stand looking at one another when + called upon to set sail or do any other job aloft. THEN the want of seamen + is rather severely felt. But even in sailing ships—the great, + overgrown tanks of two thousand tons and upwards—mechanical genius + has utilized iron to such an extent in their rigging that sailor-work has + become very largely a matter of blacksmithing. I make no complaint of + this, not believing that the "old was better;" but, since the strongest + fabric of man's invention comes to grief sometimes in conflict with the + irresistible sea, some provision should be made for having a sufficiency + of seamen who could exercise their skill in refitting a dismasted ship, or + temporarily replacing broken blacksmith work by old-fashioned rope and + wood. + </p> + <p> + But, as the sailing ship is doomed inevitably to disappear before steam, + perhaps it does not matter much. The economic march of the world's + progress will never be stayed by sentimental considerations, nor will all + the romance and poetry in the world save the seaman from extinction, if + his place can be more profitably filled by the engineer. From all + appearances, it soon will be, for even now marine superintendents of big + lines are sometimes engineers, and in their hands lie the duty of engaging + the officers. It would really seem as if the ship of the near future would + be governed by the chief engineer, under whose direction a pilot or + sailing-master would do the necessary navigation, without power to + interfere in any matter of the ship's economy. Changes as great have taken + place in other professions; seafaring cannot hope to be the sole + exception. + </p> + <p> + So, edging comfortably along, we gradually neared the Sandwich Islands + without having seen a single spout worth watching since the tragedy. At + last the lofty summits of the island mountains hove in sight, and + presently we came to an anchor in that paradise of whalers, missionaries, + and amateur statesmen—Honolulu. As it is as well known to most + reading people as our own ports—better perhaps—I shall not + attempt to describe it, or pit myself against the able writers who have + made it so familiar. Yet to me it was a new world. All things were so + strange, so delightful, especially the lovable, lazy, fascinating Kanakas, + who could be so limply happy over a dish of poi, or a green cocoa-nut, or + even a lounge in the sun, that it seemed an outrage to expect them to + work. In their sports they could be energetic enough. I do not know of any + more delightful sight than to watch them bathing in the tremendous surf, + simply intoxicated with the joy of living, as unconscious of danger as if + swinging in a hammock while riding triumphantly upon the foaming summit of + an incoming breaker twenty feet high, or plunging with a cataract over the + dizzy edge of its cliff, swallowed up in the hissing vortex below, only to + reappear with a scream of riotous laughter in the quiet eddy beyond. + </p> + <p> + As far as I could judge, they were the happiest of people, literally + taking no thought for the morrow, and content with the barest necessaries + of life, so long as they were free and the sun shone brightly. We had many + opportunities of cultivating their acquaintance, for the captain allowed + us much liberty, quite one-half of the crew and officers being ashore most + of the time. Of course, the majority spent all their spare time in the + purlieus of the town, which, like all such places anywhere, were foul and + filthy enough; but that was their own faults. I have often wondered much + to see men, who on board ship were the pink of cleanliness and neatness, + fastidious to a fault in all they did, come ashore and huddle in the most + horrible of kennels, among the very dregs and greaves of the 'long-shore + district. It certainly wants a great deal of explanation; but I suppose + the most potent reason is, that sailors, as a class, never learn to enjoy + themselves rationally. They are also morbidly suspicions of being taken in + hand by anybody who would show them anything worth seeing, preferring to + be led by the human sharks that infest all seaports into ways of strange + nastiness, and so expensive withal that one night of such wallowing often + costs them more than a month's sane recreation and good food would. All + honour to the devoted men and women who labour in our seaports for the + moral and material benefit of the sailor, passing their lives amidst + sights and sounds shocking and sickening to the last degree, reviled, + unthanked, unpaid. Few are the missionaries abroad whose lot is so hard as + theirs. + </p> + <p> + We spent ten happy days in Honolulu, marred only by one or two drunken + rows among the chaps forward, which, however, resulted in their getting a + severe dressing down in the forecastle, where good order was now kept. + There had been no need for interference on the part of the officers, which + I was glad to see, remembering what would have happened under such + circumstances not long ago. Being short-handed, the captain engaged a + number of friendly islanders for a limited period, on the understanding + that they were to be discharged at their native place, Vau Vau. There were + ten of them, fine stalwart fellows, able bodied and willing as possible. + They were cleanly in their habits, and devout members of the Wesleyan + body, so that their behaviour was quite a reproach to some of our + half-civilized crew. Berths were found for them in the forecastle, and + they took their places among us quite naturally, being fairly well used to + a whale-ship. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XVIII. ON THE "LINE" GROUNDS + </h2> + <p> + We weighed at last, one morning, with a beautiful breeze, and, bidding a + long farewell to the lovely isles and their amiable inhabitants, stood at + sea, bound for the "line" or equatorial grounds on our legitimate business + of sperm whaling. It was now a long while since we had been in contact + with a cachalot, the last one having been killed by us on the Coast of + Japan some six months before. But we all looked forward to the coming + campaign with considerable joy, for we were now a happy family, interested + in the work, and, best of all, even if the time was still distant, we + were, in a sense, homeward bound. At any rate, we all chose so to think, + from the circumstance that we were now working to the southward, towards + Cape Horn, the rounding of which dreaded point would mark the final stage + of our globe-encircling voyage. + </p> + <p> + We had, during our stay at Honolulu, obtained a couple of grand boats in + addition to our stock, and were now in a position to man and lower five at + once, if occasion should arise, still leaving sufficient crew on board to + work the vessel. The captain had also engaged an elderly seaman of his + acquaintance—out of pure philanthropy, as we all thought, since he + was in a state of semi-starvation ashore—to act as a kind of + sailing-master, so as to relieve the captain of ship duty at whaling time, + allowing him still to head his boat. This was not altogether welcome news + to me, for, much as I liked the old man and admired his pluck, I could not + help dreading his utter recklessness when on a whale, which had so often + led to a smash-up that might have been easily avoided. Moreover, I + reasoned that if he had been foolhardy before, he was likely to be much + more so now, having no superior to look black or use language when a + disaster occurred. For now I was his harpooner, bound to take as many + risks as he chose to incur, and anxious also to earn a reputation among + the more seasoned whalemen for smartness sufficient to justify my + promotion. + </p> + <p> + The Kanakas shipped at Honolulu were distributed among the boats, two to + each, being already trained whalemen, and a fine lot of fellows they were. + My two—Samuela and Polly—were not very big men, but sturdy, + nimble as cats, as much at home in the water as on deck, and simply + bubbling over with fun and good-humour. From my earliest sea-going, I have + always had a strong liking for natives of tropical countries, finding them + affectionate and amenable to kindness. Why, I think, white men do not get + on with darkies well, as a rule, is, that they seldom make an appeal to + the MAN, in them. It is very degrading to find one's self looked down upon + as a sort of animal without reason or feelings; and if you degrade a man, + you deprive him of any incentive to make himself useful, except the brute + one you may feel bound to apply yourself. My experience has been limited + to Africans (of sorts), Kanakas, natives of Hindostan, Malagasy, and + Chinese; but with all these I have found a little COMARADERIE answer + excellently. True, they are lazy; but what inducement have they to work? + The complicated needs of our civilized existence compel US to work, or be + run over by the unresting machine; but I take leave to doubt whether any + of us with a primitive environment would not be as lazy as any Kanaka that + ever dozed under a banana tree through daylight hours. Why, then, make an + exalted virtue of the necessity which drives us, and objurgate the poor + black man because he prefers present ease to a doubtful prospective + retirement on a competency? Australian blackfellows and Malays are said to + be impervious to kind treatment by a great number of witnesses, the former + appearing incapable of gratitude, and the latter unable to resist the + frequent temptation to kill somebody. Not knowing anything personally of + either of these races, I can say nothing for or against them. + </p> + <p> + All the coloured individuals that I have had to do with have amply repaid + any little kindness shown them with fidelity and affection, but especially + has this been the case with Kanakas, The soft and melodious language + spoken by them is easy to acquire, and is so pleasant to speak that it is + well worth learning, to say nothing of the convenience to yourself, + although the Kanaka speedily picks up the mutilated jargon which does duty + for English on board ship. + </p> + <p> + What I specially longed for now was a harpooner, or even two, so that I + might have my boat to myself, the captain taking his own boat with a + settled harpooner. Samuela, the biggest of my two Kanakas, very earnestly + informed me that he was no end of a "number one" whale slaughterer; but I + judged it best to see how things went before asking to have him promoted. + My chance, and his, came very promptly; so nicely arranged, too, that I + could not have wished for anything better. The skipper had got a fine, + healthy boil on one knee-cap, and another on his wrist, so that he was, as + you may say, HORS DE COMBAT. While he was impatiently waiting to get about + once more, sperm whales were raised. Although nearly frantic with + annoyance, he was compelled to leave the direction of things to Mr. Cruce, + who was quite puffed up with the importance of his opportunity. + </p> + <p> + Such a nice little school of cow-whales, a lovely breeze, clear sky, warm + weather—I felt as gay as a lark at the prospect. As we were reaching + to windward, with all boats ready for lowering, the skipper called me aft + and said, "Naow, Mr. Bullen, I cain't lower, because of this condemned + leg'n arm of mine; but how'r yew goin' ter manage 'thout a harpooneer?" I + suggested that if he would allow me to try Samuela, who was suffering for + a chance to distinguish himself, we would "come out on top." "All right," + he said; "but let the other boats get fast first, 'n doan be in too much + of a hurry to tie yerself up till ya see what's doin'. If everythin's + goin' bizness-fashion', 'n yew git a chance, sail right in; yew got ter + begin some time. But ef thet Kanaka looks skeered goin' on, take the iron + frum him ter onct." I promised, and the interview ended. + </p> + <p> + When I told Samuela, of his chance, he was beside himself with joy. As to + his being scared, the idea was manifestly absurd. He was as pleased with + the prospect as it was possible for a man to be, and hardly able to + contain himself for impatience to be off. I almost envied him his + exuberant delight, for a sense of responsibility began to weigh upon me + with somewhat depressing effect. + </p> + <p> + We gained a good weather-gage, rounded to, and lowered four boats. Getting + away in good style, we had barely got the sails up, when something gallied + the school. We saw or heard nothing to account for it, but undoubtedly the + "fish" were off at top speed dead to windward, so that our sails were of + no use. We had them in with as little delay as possible, and lay to our + oars for all we were worth, being fresh and strong, as well as anxious to + get amongst them. But I fancy all our efforts would have availed us little + had it not been for the experience of Mr. Cruce, whose eager eye detected + the fact that the fish were running on a great curve, and shaped our + course to cut them off along a chord of the arc. + </p> + <p> + Two and a half hours of energetic work was required of us before we got on + terms with the fleeing monsters; but at last, to our great joy, they broke + water from sounding right among us. It was a considerable surprise, but we + were all ready, and before they had spouted twice, three boats were fast, + only myself keeping out, in accordance with my instructions. Samuela was + almost distraught with rage and grief at the condition of things. I quite + pitied him, although I was anything but pleased myself. However, when I + ranged up alongside the mate's fish, to render what assistance was needed, + he shouted to me, "We's all right; go'n git fas', if yew kin." That was + enough, and away we flew after a retreating spout to leeward. Before we + got there, though, there was an upheaval in the water just ahead, and up + came a back like a keelless ship bottom up. Out came the head belonging to + it, and a spout like an explosion burst forth, denoting the presence of an + enormous bull-cachalot. Close by his side was a cow of about one-third his + size, the favoured sultana of his harem, I suppose. Prudence whispered, + "Go for the cow;" ambition hissed, "All or none—the bull, the bull." + Fortunately emergencies of this kind leave one but a second or two to + decide, as a rule; in this case, as it happened, I was spared even that + mental conflict, for as we ran up between the two vast creatures, Samuela, + never even looking at the cow, hurled his harpoon, with all the energy + that he had been bursting with so long, at the mighty bull. I watched its + flight—saw it enter the black mass and disappear to the shaft, and + almost immediately came the second iron, within a foot of the first, + burying itself in the same solid fashion. + </p> + <p> + "Starn—starn all!" I shouted; and we backed slowly away, + considerably hampered by the persistent attentions of the cow, who hung + round us closely. The temptation to lance her was certainly great, but I + remembered the fate that had overtaken the skipper on the first occasion + we struck whales, and did not meddle with her ladyship. Our prey was not + apparently disposed to kick up much fuss at first, so, anxious to settle + matters, I changed ends with Samuela, and pulled in on the whale. A good, + steady lance-thrust—the first I had ever delivered—was + obtained, sending a thrill of triumph through my whole body. The + recipient, thoroughly roused by this, started off at a great lick, + accompanied, somewhat to my surprise, by the cow. Thenceforward for + another hour, in spite of all our efforts, we could not get within + striking distance, mainly because of the close attention of the cow, which + stuck to her lord like a calf to its mother. I was getting so impatient of + this hindrance, that it was all I could do to restrain myself from lancing + the cow, though I felt convinced that, if I did, I should spoil a good + job. Suddenly I caught sight of the ship right ahead. We were still flying + along, so that in a short time we were comparatively close to her. My + heart beat high and I burned to distinguish myself under the friendly and + appreciative eye of the skipper. + </p> + <p> + None of the other boats were in sight, from our level at least, so that I + had a reasonable hope of being able to finish my game, with all the glory + thereunto attaching, unshared by any other of my fellow-officers. As we + ran quite closely past the ship, calling on the crew to haul up for all + they were worth, we managed actually to squeeze past the cow, and I got in + a really deadly blow. The point of the lance entered just between the fin + and the eye, but higher up, missing the broad plate of the shoulder-blade, + and sinking its whole four feet over the hitches right down into the + animal's vitals. Then, for the first time, he threw up his flukes, + thrashing them from side to side almost round to his head, and raising + such a turmoil that we were half full of water in a moment. But Samuela + was so quick at the steer-oar, so lithe and forceful, and withal appeared + so to anticipate every move of mine, that there seemed hardly any danger. + </p> + <p> + After a few moments of this tremendous exertion, our victim settled down, + leaving the water deeply stained with his gushing blood. With him + disappeared his constant companion, the faithful cow, who had never left + his side a minute since we first got fast. Down, down they went, until my + line began to look very low, and I was compelled to make signals to the + ship for more. We had hardly elevated the oars, when down dropped the last + boat with four men in her, arriving by my side in a few minutes with two + fresh tubs of tow-line. We took them on board, and the boat returned + again. By the time the slack came we had about four hundred and fifty + fathoms out—a goodly heap to pile up loose in our stern-sheets. I + felt sure, however, that we should have but little more trouble with our + fish; in fact, I was half afraid that he would die before getting to the + surface, in which case he might sink and be lost. We hauled steadily away, + the line not coming in very easily, until I judged there was only about + another hundred fathoms out. Our amazement may be imagined, when suddenly + we were compelled to sleek away again, the sudden weight on the line + suggesting that the fish was again sounding. If ever a young hand was + perplexed, it was I. Never before had I heard of such unseemly behaviour, + nor was my anxiety lessened when I saw, a short distance away, the huge + body of my prize at the surface spouting blood. At the same time, I was + paying out line at a good rate, as if I had a fast fish on which was + sounding briskly. + </p> + <p> + The skipper had been watching me very closely from his seat on the + taffrail, and had kept the ship within easy distance. Now, suspecting + something out of the common, he sent the boat again to my assistance, in + charge of the cooper. When that worthy arrived, he said, "Th' ol' man + reckens yew've got snarled erp'ith thet ar' loose keow, 'n y'r irons hev + draw'd from th' other. I'm gwine ter wait on him,'n get him 'longside + 'soon's he's out'er his flurry. Ole man sez yew'd best wait on what's fast + t' yer an' nev' mine th' other." Away he went, reaching my prize just as + the last feeble spout exhaled, leaving the dregs of that great flood of + life trickling lazily down from the widely expanded spiracle. To drive a + harpoon into the carcass, and run the line on board, was the simplest of + jobs, for, as the captain had foreseen, my irons were drawn clean. I had + no leisure to take any notice of them now, though, for whatever was on my + line was coming up hand-over-fist. + </p> + <p> + With a bound it reached the surface—the identical cow so long + attendant upon the dead whale. Having been so long below for such a small + whale, she was quite exhausted, and before she had recovered we had got + alongside of her and lanced her, so thoroughly that she died without a + struggle. The ship was so close that we had her alongside in a wonderfully + short time, and with scarcely any trouble. + </p> + <p> + When I reached the deck, the skipper called me, and said several things + that made me feel about six inches taller. He was, as may be thought, + exceedingly pleased, saying that only once in his long career had he seen + a similar case; for I forgot to mention that the line was entangled around + the cow's down-hanging jaw, as if she had actually tried to bite in two + the rope that held her consort, and only succeeded in sharing his fate. I + would not like to say that whales do not try to thus sever a line, but, + their teeth being several inches apart, conical, and fitting into sockets + in the upper jaw instead of meeting the opposed surfaces of other teeth, + the accomplishment of such a feat must, I think, be impossible. + </p> + <p> + The ship being now as good as anchored by the vast mass of flesh hanging + to her, there was a tremendous task awaiting us to get the other fish + alongside. Of course they were all to windward; they nearly always are, + unless the ship is persistently "turned to windward" while the fishing is + going on. Whalers believe that they always work up into the wind while + fast, and, when dead, it is certain that they drift at a pretty good rate + right in the "wind's eye." This is accounted for by the play of the body, + which naturally lies head to wind; and the wash of the flukes, which, + acting somewhat like the "sculling" of an oar at the stern of a boat, + propel the carcass in the direction it is pointing, Consequently we had a + cruel amount of towing to do before we got the three cows alongside. Many + a time we blessed ourselves that they were no bigger, for of all the + clumsy things to tow with boats, a sperm whale is about the worst. Owing + to the great square mass of the head, they can hardly be towed head-on at + all, the practice being to cut off the tips of the flukes, and tow them + tail first. But even then it is slavery. To dip your oar about three times + in the same hole from whence you withdrew it, to tug at it with all your + might, apparently making as much progress as though you were fast to a + dock-wall, and to continue this fun for four or five hours at a stretch, + is to wonder indeed whether you have not mistaken your vocation. + </p> + <p> + However, "it's dogged as does it," so by dint of sheer sticking to the + oar, we eventually succeeded in getting all our prizes alongside before + eight bells that evening, securing them around us by hawsers to the cows, + but giving the big bull the post of honour alongside on the best + fluke-chain. + </p> + <p> + We were a busy company for a fortnight thence, until the last of the oil + was run below—two hundred and fifty barrels, or twenty-five tuns, of + the valuable fluid having rewarded our exertions. During these operations + we had drifted night and day, apparently without anybody taking the + slightest account of the direction we were taking; when, therefore, on the + day after clearing up the last traces of our fishing, the cry of "Land + ho!" came ringing down from the crow's-nest, no one was surprised, + although the part of the Pacific in which we were cruising has but few + patches of TERRA FIRMA scattered about over its immense area when compared + with the crowded archipelagoes lying farther south and east. + </p> + <p> + We could not see the reported land from the deck for two hours after it + was first seen from aloft, although the odd spectacle of a scattered group + of cocoa-nut trees apparently growing out of the sea was for some time + presented to us before the island itself came into view. It was Christmas + Island, where the indefatigable Captain Cook landed on December 24, 1777, + for the purpose of making accurate observations of an eclipse of the sun. + He it was who gave to this lonely atoll the name it has ever since borne, + with characteristic modesty giving his own great name to a tiny patch of + coral which almost blocks the entrance to the central lagoon. Here we lay + "off and on" for a couple of days, while foraging parties went ashore, + returning at intervals with abundance of turtle and sea-fowls' eggs. But + any detailed account of their proceedings must be ruthlessly curtailed, + owing to the scanty limits of space remaining. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XIX. EDGING SOUTHWARD + </h2> + <p> + The line whaling grounds embrace an exceedingly extensive area, over the + whole of which sperm whales may be found, generally of medium size. No + means of estimating the probable plenty or scarcity of them in any given + part of the grounds exist, so that falling in with them is purely a matter + of coincidence. To me it seems a conclusive proof of the enormous numbers + of sperm whales frequenting certain large breadths of ocean, that they + should be so often fallen in with, remembering what a little spot is + represented by a day's cruise, and that the signs which denote almost + infallibly the vicinity of right whales are entirely absent in the case of + the cachalot. In the narrow waters of the Greenland seas, with quite a + small number of vessels seeking, it is hardly possible for a whale of any + size to escape being seen; but in the open ocean a goodly fleet may cruise + over a space of a hundred thousand square miles without meeting any of the + whales that may yet be there in large numbers. So that when one hears talk + of the extinction of the cachalot, it is well to bear in mind that such a + thing would take a long series of years to effect, even were the whaling + business waxing instead of waning, While, however, South Sea whaling is + conducted on such old-world methods as still obtain; while steam, with all + the power it gives of rapidly dealing with a catch, is not made use of, + the art and mystery of the whale-fisher must continually decrease. No such + valuable lubricant has ever been found as sperm oil; but the cost of its + production, added to the precarious nature of the supply, so handicaps it + in the competition with substitutes that it has been practically + eliminated from the English markets, except in such greatly adulterated + forms as to render it a lie to speak of the mixture as sperm oil at all. + </p> + <p> + Except to a few whose minds to them are kingdoms, and others who can + hardly be said to have any minds at all, the long monotony of unsuccessful + seeking for whales is very wearying. The ceaseless motion of the vessel + rocking at the centre of a circular space of blue, with a perfectly + symmetrical dome of azure enclosing her above, unflecked by a single + cloud, becomes at last almost unbearable from its changeless sameness of + environment. Were it not for the trivial round and common task of everyday + ship duty, some of the crew must become idiotic, or, in sheer rage at the + want of interest in their lives, commit mutiny. + </p> + <p> + Such a weary time was ours for full four weeks after sighting Christmas + Island. The fine haul we had obtained just previous to that day seemed to + have exhausted our luck for the time being, for never a spout did we see. + And it was with no ordinary delight that we hailed the advent of an + immense school of black-fish, the first we had run across for a long time. + Determined to have a big catch, if possible, we lowered all five boats, as + it was a beautifully calm day, and the ship might almost safely have been + left to look after herself. After what we had recently been accustomed to, + the game seemed trifling to get up much excitement over; but still, for a + good day's sport, commend me to a few lively black-fish. + </p> + <p> + In less than ten minutes we were in the thick of the crowd, with harpoons + flying right and left. Such a scene of wild confusion and uproarious + merriment ensued as I never saw before in my life. The skipper, true to + his traditions, got fast to four, all running different ways at once, and + making the calm sea boil again with their frantic gyrations. Each of the + other boats got hold of three; but, the mate getting too near me, our fish + got so inextricably tangled up that it was hopeless to try and distinguish + between each other's prizes. However, when we got the lances to work among + them, the hubbub calmed down greatly, and the big bodies one by one ceased + their gambols, floating supine. + </p> + <p> + So far, all had been gay; but the unlucky second mate must needs go and do + a thing that spoiled a day's fun entirely. The line runs through a deep + groove in the boat's stem, over a brass roller so fitted that when the + line is running out it remains fixed, but when hauling in it revolves + freely, assisting the work a great deal. The second mate had three fish + fast, like the rest of us—the first one on the end of the main line, + the other two on "short warps," or pieces of whale-line some eight or ten + fathoms long fastened to harpoons, with the other ends running on the main + line by means of bowlines round it. By some mistake or other he had + allowed the two lines to be hauled together through the groove in his + boat's stem, and before the error was noticed two fish spurted off in + opposite directions, ripping the boat in two halves lengthways, like a + Dutchman splitting a salt herring. + </p> + <p> + Away went the fish with the whole of the line, nobody being able to get at + it to cut; and, but for the presence of mind shown by the crew in striking + out and away from the tangle, a most ghastly misfortune, involving the + loss of several lives, must have occurred. As it was, the loss was + considerable, almost outweighing the gain on the day's fishing, besides + the inconvenience of having a boat useless on a whaling grounds. + </p> + <p> + The accident was the fruit of gross carelessness, and should never have + occurred; but then, strange to say, disasters to whale-boats are nearly + always due to want of care, the percentage of unavoidable casualties being + very small as compared with those like the one just related. When the + highly dangerous nature of the work is remembered, this statement may seem + somewhat overdrawn; but it has been so frequently corroborated by others, + whose experience far outweighs my own, that I do not hesitate to make it + with the fullest confidence in its truth. + </p> + <p> + Happily no lives were lost on this occasion, for it would have indeed been + grievous to have seen our shipmates sacrificed to the MANES of a mere + black-fish, after successfully encountering so many mighty whales. The + episode gave us a great deal of unnecessary work getting the two halves of + the boat saved, in addition to securing our fish, so that by the time we + got the twelve remaining carcasses hove on deck we were all quite fagged + out. But under the new regime we were sure of a good rest, so that did not + trouble us; it rather made the lounge on deck in the balmy evening air and + the well-filled pipe of peace doubly sweet. + </p> + <p> + Our next day's work completed the skinning of the haul we had made, the + last of the carcasses going overboard with a thunderous splash at four in + the afternoon. The assemblage of sharks round the ship on this occasion + was incredible for its number and the great size of the creatures. + Certainly no mariners see so many or such huge sharks as whalemen; but, in + spite of all our previous experience, this day touched high-water mark. + Many of these fish were of a size undreamed of by the ordinary seafarer, + some of them full thirty feet in length, more like whales than sharks. + Most of them were striped diagonally with bands of yellow, contrasting + curiously with the dingy grey of their normal colour. From this marking is + derived their popular name—"tiger sharks," not, as might be + supposed, from their ferocity. That attribute cannot properly be applied + to the SQUALUS at all, which is one of the most timid fish afloat, and + whose ill name, as far as regards blood-thirstiness, is quite undeserved. + Rapacious the shark certainly is; but what sea-fish is not? He is not at + all particular as to his diet; but what sea-fish is? With such a great + bulk of body, such enormous vitality and vigour to support, he must needs + be ever eating; and since he is not constructed on swift enough lines to + enable him to prey upon living fish, like most of his neighbours, he is + perforce compelled to play the humble but useful part of a sea-scavenger. + </p> + <p> + He eats man, as he eats anything else eatable because in the water man is + easily caught, and not from natural depravity or an acquired taste + begetting a decided preference for human flesh. All natives of shores + infested by sharks despise him and his alleged man-eating propensities, + knowing that a very feeble splashing will suffice to frighten him away + even if ever so hungry. Demerara River literally swarms with sharks, yet I + have often seen a negro, clad only in a beaming smile, slip into its muddy + waters, and, after a few sharp blows with his open hand upon the surface, + calmly swim down to the bottom, clear a ship's anchor, or do whatever job + was required, coming up again as leisurely as if in a swimming-bath. A + similar disregard of the dangerous attributes awarded by popular consent + to the shark may be witnessed everywhere among the people who know him + best. The cruelties perpetrated upon sharks by seamen generally are the + result of ignorance and superstition combined, the most infernal forces + known to humanity. What would be said at home of such an act, if it could + be witnessed among us, as the disembowelling of a tiger, say, and then + letting him run in that horrible condition somewhere remote from the + possibility of retaliating upon his torturers? Yet that is hardly + comparable with a similar atrocity performed upon a shark, because he will + live hours to the tiger's minutes in such a condition. + </p> + <p> + I once caught a shark nine feet long, which we hauled on board and killed + by cutting off its head and tail. It died very speedily—for a shark—all + muscular motion ceasing in less than fifteen minutes. It was my intention + to prepare that useless and unornamental article so dear to sailors—a + walking-stick made of a shark's backbone. But when I came to cut out the + vertebra, I noticed a large scar, extending from one side to the other, + right across the centre of the back. Beneath it the backbone was thickened + to treble its normal size, and perfectly rigid; in fact, it had become a + mass of solid bone. At some time or other this shark had been harpooned so + severely that, in wrenching himself free, he must have nearly torn his + body in two halves, severing the spinal column completely. Yet such a + wound as that had been healed by natural process, the bone knit together + again with many times the strength it had before—minus, of course, + its flexibility—and I can testify from the experience of securing + him that he could not possibly have been more vigorous than he was. + </p> + <p> + A favourite practice used to be—I trust it is so no longer—to + catch a shark, and, after driving a sharpened stake down through his upper + jaw and out underneath the lower one, so that its upper portion pointed + diagonally forward, to let him go again. The consequence of this cruelty + would be that the fish was unable to open his mouth, or go in any + direction without immediately coming to the surface. How long he might + linger in such torture, one can only guess; but unless his fellows, + finding him thus helpless, came along and kindly devoured him, no doubt he + would exist in extreme agony for a very long time. + </p> + <p> + Two more small cows were all that rewarded our search during the next + fortnight, and we began to feel serious doubts as to the success of our + season upon the line grounds, after all. Still, on the whole, our voyage + up to the present had not been what might fairly be called unsuccessful, + for we were not yet two years away from New Bedford, while we had + considerably more than two thousand barrels of oil on board—more, in + fact, than two-thirds of a full cargo. But if a whale were caught every + other day for six months, and then a month elapsed without any being seen, + grumbling would be loud and frequent, all the previous success being + forgotten in the present stagnation. Perhaps it is not so different in + other professions nearer home? + </p> + <p> + Christmas Day drew near, beloved of Englishmen all the world over, though + thought little of by Americans. The two previous ones spent on board the + CACHALOT have been passed over without mention, absolutely no notice being + taken of the season by any one on board, to all appearance. In English + ships some attempt is always made to give the day somewhat of a festive + character, and to maintain the national tradition of good-cheer and + goodwill in whatever part of the world you may happen to be. For some + reason or other, perhaps because of the great increase in comfort; we had + all experienced lately, I felt the approach of the great Christian + anniversary very strongly; although, had I been in London, I should + probably have spent it in lonely gloom, having no relatives or friends + whom I might visit. But what of that? Christmas is Christmas; and, if we + have no home, we think of the place where our home should be; and whether, + as cynics sneer, Dickens invented the English Christmas or not, its + observance has taken deep root among us. May its shadow never be less! + </p> + <p> + On Christmas morning I mounted to the crow's-nest at daybreak, and stood + looking with never-failing awe at the daily marvel of the sunrise. Often + and often have I felt choking for words to express the tumult of thoughts + aroused by this sublime spectacle. Hanging there in cloudland, the tiny + microcosm at one's feet forgotten, the grandeur of the celestial outlook + is overwhelming. Many and many a time I have bowed my head and wept in + pure reverence at the majesty manifested around me while the glory of the + dawn increased and brightened, till with one exultant bound the sun + appeared. + </p> + <p> + For some time I stood gazing straight ahead of me with eyes that saw not, + filled with wonder and admiration. I must have been looking directly at + the same spot for quite a quarter of an hour, when suddenly, as if I had + but just opened my eyes, I saw the well-known bushy spout of a sperm + whale. I raised the usual yell, which rang through the stillness + discordantly, startling all hands out of their lethargy like bees out of a + hive. After the usual preliminaries, we were all afloat with sails set, + gliding slowly over the sleeping sea towards the unconscious objects of + our attention. The captain did not lower this time, as there only appeared + to be three fish, none of them seeming large. Though at any distance it is + extremely difficult to assess the size of whales, the spout being very + misleading. Sometimes a full-sized whale will show a small spout, while a + twenty-barrel cow will exhale a volume of vapour extensive enough for two + or three at once. + </p> + <p> + Now although, according to etiquette, I kept my position in the rear of my + superior officers, I had fully determined in my own mind, being puffed up + with previous success, to play second fiddle to no one, if I could help + it, this time. Samuela was decidedly of the same opinion; indeed, I + believe he would have been delighted to tackle a whole school + single-handed, while my crew were all willing and eager for the fight. We + had a long, tedious journey before we came up with them, the wind being so + light that even with the occasional assistance of the paddles our progress + was wretchedly slow. When at last we did get into their water, and the + mate's harpooner stood up to dart, his foot slipped, and down he came with + a clatter enough to scare a cachalot twenty miles away. It gallied our + friends effectually, sending them flying in different directions at the + top of their speed. But being some distance astern of the other boats, one + of the fish, in his headlong retreat, rose for a final blow some six or + seven fathoms away, passing us in the opposite direction. His appearance + was only momentary, yet in that moment Samuela hurled his harpoon into the + air, where it described a beautiful parabola, coming down upon the + disappearing monster's back just as the sea was closing over it. Oh, it + was a splendid dart, worthy of the finest harpooner that ever lived! There + was no time for congratulations, however, for we spun round as on a pivot, + and away we went in the wake of that fellow at a great rate. I cast one + look astern to see whether the others had struck, but could see nothing of + them; we seemed to have sprung out of their ken in an instant. + </p> + <p> + The speed of our friend was marvellous, but I comforted myself with the + knowledge that these animals usually run in circles—sometimes, it is + true, of enormous diameter, but seldom getting far away from their + starting-point. But as the time went on, and we seemed to fly over the + waves at undiminished speed, I began to think this whale might be the + exception necessary to prove the rule, so I got out the compass and + watched his course. Due east, not a degree to north or south of it, + straight as a bee to its hive. The ship was now far out of sight astern, + but I knew that keen eyes had been watching our movements from the + masthead, and that every effort possible would be made to keep the run of + us. The speed of our whale was not only great, but unflagging. He was more + like a machine than an animal capable of tiring; and though we did our + level best, at the faintest symptom of slackening, to get up closer and + lance him, it was for some time impossible. After, at a rough estimate, + running in a direct easterly course for over two hours, he suddenly + sounded, without having given us the ghost of a chance to "land him one + where he lived." Judging from his previous exertions, though, it was + hardly possible he would be able to stay down long, or get very deep, as + the strain upon these vast creatures at any depth is astonishingly + exhausting. After a longer stay below than usual, when they have gone + extra deep, they often arrive at the surface manifestly "done up" for a + time. Then, if the whaleman be active and daring, a few well-directed + strokes may be got in which will promptly settle the business out of hand. + </p> + <p> + Now, when my whale sounded he was to all appearance as frightened a beast + as one could wish—one who had run himself out endeavouring to get + away from his enemies, and as a last resource had dived into the quietness + below in the vain hope to get away. So I regarded him, making up my mind + to wait on him with diligence upon his arrival, and not allow him to get + breath before I had settled him. But when he did return, there was a + mighty difference in him. He seemed as if he had been getting some tips on + the subject from some school below where whales are trained to hunt men; + for his first move was to come straight for me with a furious rush, + carrying the war into the enemy's country with a vengeance. It must be + remembered that I was but young, and a comparatively new hand at this sort + of thing; so when I confess that I felt more than a little scared at this + sudden change in the tactics of my opponent, I hope I shall be excused. + Remembering, however, that all our lives depended on keeping cool, I told + myself that even if I was frightened I must not go all to pieces, but + compel myself to think and act calmly, since I was responsible for others. + If the animal had not been in so blind a fury, I am afraid my task would + have been much harder; but he was mad, and his savage rushes were, though + disquieting, unsystematic and clumsy. It was essential, however, that he + should not be allowed to persist too long in his evil courses; for a whale + learns with amazing rapidity, developing such cunning in an hour or two + that all a man's smartness may be unable to cope with his newly acquired + experience. Happily, Samuela was perfectly unmoved. Like a machine, he + obeyed every gesture, every look even, swinging the boat "off" or "on" the + whale with such sweeping strokes of his mighty oar that she revolved as if + on a pivot, and encouraging the other chaps with his cheerful cries and + odd grimaces, so that the danger was hardly felt. During a momentary lull + in the storm, I took the opportunity to load my bomb-gun, much as I + disliked handling the thing, keeping my eye all the time on the water + around where I expected to see mine enemy popping up murderously at any + minute. Just as I had expected, when he rose, it was very close, and on + his back, with his jaw in the first biting position, looking ugly as a + vision of death. Finding us a little out of reach, he rolled right over + towards us, presenting as he did so the great rotundity of his belly. We + were not twenty feet away, and I snatched up the gun, levelled it, and + fired the bomb point-blank into his bowels. Then all was blank. I do not + even remember the next moment. A rush of roaring waters, a fighting with + fearful, desperate energy for air and life, all in a hurried, flurried + phantasmagoria about which there was nothing clear except the primitive + desire for life, life, life! Nor do I know how long this struggle lasted, + except that, in the nature of things, it could not have been very long. + </p> + <p> + When I returned to a consciousness of external things, I was for some time + perfectly still, looking at the sky, totally unable to realize what had + happened or where I was. Presently the smiling, pleasant face of Samuela + bent over me. Meeting my gratified look of recognition, he set up a + perfect yell of delight. "So glad, so glad you blonga life! No go Davy + Jonesy dis time, hay?" I put my hand out to help myself to a sitting + posture, and touched blubber. That startled me so that I sprung up as if + shot. Then I took in the situation at a glance. There were all my poor + fellows with me, stranded upon the top of our late antagonist, but no sign + of the boat to be seen. Bewildered at the state of affairs, I looked + appealingly from one to the other for an explanation. I got it from Abner, + who said, laconically, "When yew fired thet ole gun, I guess it mus' have + bin loaded fer bear, fer ye jest tumbled clar head over heels backwards + outen the boat. Et that very same moment I suspicion the bomb busted in + his belly, fer he went clean rampageous loony. He rolled right over an' + over to'rds us, n' befo' we c'd rightly see wat wuz comin', we cu'dnt see + anythin' 'tall; we wuz all grabbin' at nothin', some'rs underneath the + whale. When I come to the top, I lit eout fer the fust thing I c'd see to + lay holt of, which wuz old squarhead himself, deader 'n pork. I guess thet + ar bomb o' yourn kinder upset his commissary department. Anyway, I climed + up onto him, 'n bime-by the rest ov us histed themselves alongside ov me. + Sam Weller here; he cum last, towin' you 'long with him. I don'no whar he + foun' ye, but ye was very near a goner, 'n's full o' pickle as ye c'd + hold." I turned a grateful eye upon my dusky harpooner, who had saved my + life, but was now apparently blissfully unconscious of having done + anything meritorious. + </p> + <p> + Behold us, then, a half-drowned row of scarecrows perched, like some new + species of dilapidated birds, upon the side of our late foe. The sun was + not so furiously hot as usual, for masses of rain-laden NIMBI were filling + the sky, so that we were comparatively free from the awful roasting we + might have expected: nor was our position as precarious for a while as + would be thought. True, we had only one harpoon, with its still fast line, + to hold on by; but the side of the whale was somehow hollowed, so that, in + spite of the incessant movement imparted to the carcass by the swell, we + sat fairly safe, with our feet in the said hollow. We discussed the + situation in all its bearings, unable to extract more than the faintest + gleam of hope from any aspect of the case. The only reasonable chance we + had was, that the skipper had almost certainly taken our bearings, and + would, we were sure, be anxiously seeking us on the course thus indicated. + Meanwhile, we were ravenously hungry and thirsty. Samuela and Polly set to + work with their sheath-knives, and soon excavated a space in the blubber + to enable them to reach the meat. Then they cut off some good-sized junks, + and divided it up. It was not half bad; and as we chewed on the tough + black fibre, I could hardly help smiling as I thought how queer a + Christmas dinner we were having. But eating soon heightened our thirst, + and our real sufferings then began. We could eat very little once the want + of drink made itself felt. Hardly two hours had elapsed, though, before + one of the big-bellied clouds which bad been keeping the sun off us most + considerately emptied out upon us a perfect torrent of rain. It filled the + cavity in the whale's side in a twinkling; and though the water was + greasy, stained with blood, and vilely flavoured, it was as welcome a + drink as I have ever tasted. Thus fed, and with our thirst slaked, we were + able to take a more hopeful view of things while the prospect of our being + found seemed much more probable than it had done before the rain fell. + </p> + <p> + Still, we had to endure our pillory for a long while yet. The sharks and + birds began to worry us, especially the former, who in their eagerness to + get a portion of the blubber, fought, writhed and tore at the carcass with + tireless energy. Once, one of the smaller ones actually came sliding up + right into our hollow; but Samuela and Polly promptly dispatched him with + a cut throat, sending him back to encourage the others. The present + relieved us of most of their attentions for a short time at least, as they + eagerly divided the remains of their late comrade among them. + </p> + <p> + To while away the time we spun yarns—without much point, I am + afraid; and sung songs, albeit we did not feel much like singing—till + after a while our poor attempts at gaiety fizzled out like a damp match, + leaving us silent and depressed. The sun, which had been hidden for some + time, now came out again, his slanting beams revealing to us ominously the + flight of time and the near approach of night. Should darkness overtake us + in our present position, we all felt that saving us would need the + performance of a miracle; for in addition to the chances of the + accumulated gases within the carcass bursting it asunder, the unceasing + assault of the sharks made it highly doubtful whether they would not in a + few hours more have devoured it piecemeal. Already they had scooped out + some deep furrows in the solid blubber, making it easier to get hold and + tear off more, and their numbers were increasing so fast that the + surrounding sea was fairly alive with them. Lower and lower sank the sun, + deeper and darker grew the gloom upon our faces, till suddenly Samuela + leaped to his feet in our midst, and emitted a yell so ear-piercing as to + nearly deafen us. He saw the ship! Before two minutes had passed we all + saw her—God bless her!—coming down upon us like some angelic + messenger. There were no fears among us that we should be overlooked. We + knew full well how anxiously and keenly many pairs of eyes had been + peering over the sea in search of us, and we felt perfectly sure they had + sighted us long ago. On she came, gilded by the evening glow, till she + seemed glorified, moving in a halo of celestial light, all her homeliness + and clumsy build forgotten in what she then represented to us. + </p> + <p> + Never before or since has a ship looked like that, to me, nor can I ever + forget the thankfulness, the delight, the reverence, with which I once + more saw her approaching. Straight down upon us she bore, rounding to + within a cable's length, and dropping a boat simultaneously with her + windward sweep. They had no whale—well for us they had not. In five + minutes we were on board, while our late resting-place was being hauled + alongside with great glee. + </p> + <p> + The captain shook hands with me cordially, pooh-poohing the loss of the + boat as an unavoidable incident of the trade, but expressing his + heart-felt delight at getting us all back safe. The whale we had killed + was ample compensation for the loss of several boats, though such was the + vigour with which the sharks were going for him, that it was deemed + advisable to cut in at once, working all night. We who had been rescued, + however, were summarily ordered below by the skipper, and forbidden, on + pain of his severe displeasure, to reappear until the following morning. + This great privilege we gladly availed ourselves of, awaking at daylight + quite well and fit, not a bit the worse for our queer experience of the + previous day. + </p> + <p> + The whale proved a great acquisition, for although not nearly so large as + many we had caught, he was so amazingly rich in blubber that he actually + yielded twelve and a half tuns of oil, in spite of the heavy toll taken of + him by the hungry multitudes of sharks. In addition to the oil, we were + fortunate enough to secure a lump of ambergris, dislodged perhaps by the + explosion of my bomb in the animal's bowels. It was nearly black, wax-like + to the touch, and weighed seven pounds and a half. At the current price, + it would be worth about L200, so that, taken altogether, the whale very + nearly approached in value the largest one we had yet caught. I had almost + omitted to state that incorporated with the substance of the ambergris + were several of the horny cuttle-fish beaks, which, incapable of being + digested, had become in some manner part of this peculiar product. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XX. "HUMPBACKING" AT VAU VAU + </h2> + <p> + Another three weeks' cruising brought us to the end of the season on the + line, which had certainly not answered all our expectations, although we + had perceptibly increased the old barky's draught during our stay. Whether + from love of change or belief in the possibilities of a good haul, I can + hardly say, but Captain Count decided to make the best of his way south, + to the middle group of the "Friendly" Archipelago, known as Vau Vau, the + other portions being called Hapai and Tongataboo respectively, for a + season's "humpbacking." From all I could gather, we were likely to have a + good time there, so I looked forward to the visit with a great deal of + pleasurable anticipation. + </p> + <p> + We were bound to make a call at Vau Vau, in any case, to discharge our + Kanakas shipped at Honolulu, although I fervently hoped to be able to keep + my brave harpooner Samuela. So when I heard of our destination, I sounded + him cautiously as to his wishes in the matter, finding that, while he was + both pleased with and proud of his position on board, he was longing + greatly for his own orange grove and the embraces of a certain tender + "fafine" that he averred was there awaiting him. With such excellent + reasons for his leaving us, I could but forbear to persuade him, + sympathizing with him too deeply to wish him away from such joys as he + described to me. + </p> + <p> + So we bade farewell to the line grounds, and commenced another stretch to + the south, another milestone, as it were, on the long road home. Prosaic + and uneventful to the last degree was our passage, the only incident worth + recording being our "gamming" of the PASSAMAQUODDY, of Martha's Vineyard, + South Sea whaler; eighteen months out, with one thousand barrels of sperm + oil on board. We felt quite veterans alongside of her crew, and our yarns + laid over theirs to such an extent that they were quite disgusted at their + lack of experience. Some of them had known our late skipper, but none of + them had a good word for him, the old maxim, "Speak nothing but good of + the dead," being most flagrantly set at nought. One of her crew was a + Whitechapelian, who had been roving about the world for a good many years. + </p> + <p> + Amongst other experiences, he had, after "jumping the bounty" two or three + times, found himself a sergeant in the Federal Army before Gettysburg. + During that most bloody battle, he informed me that a "Reb" drew a bead on + him at about a dozen yards' distance, and fired, He said he felt just as + if somebody had punched him in the chest, and knocked him flat on his back + on top of a sharp stone—no pain at all, nor any further recollection + of what had happened, until he found himself at the base, in hospital. + When the surgeons came to examine him for the bullet, they found that it + had struck the broad brass plate of his cross-belt fairly in the middle, + penetrating it and shattering his breast bone. But after torturing him + vilely with the probe, they were about to give up the search in despair, + when he told them he felt a pain in his back. Examining the spot indicated + by him, they found a bullet just beneath the skin, which a touch with the + knife allowed to tumble out. Further examination revealed the strange fact + that the bullet, after striking his breast-bone, had glanced aside and + travelled round his body just beneath the skin, without doing him any + further harm. In proof of his story, he showed me the two scars and the + perforated buckle-plate. + </p> + <p> + At another time, being in charge of a picket of Germans, he and his + command were captured by a party of Confederates, who haled him before + their colonel, a southern gentleman of the old school. In the course of + his interrogation by the southern officer, he was asked where he hailed + from. He replied, "London, England." "Then," said the colonel, "how is it + you find yourself fighting for these accursed Yankees?" The cockney + faltered out some feeble excuse or another, which his captor cut short by + saying, "I've a great respect for the English, and consequently I'll let + you go this time. But if ever I catch you again, you're gone up. As for + those d——-d Dutchmen, they'll be strung up inside of five + minutes." And they were. + </p> + <p> + So with yarn, song, and dance, the evening passed pleasantly away; while + the two old hookers jogged amicably along side by side, like two + market-horses whose drivers are having a friendly crack. Along about + midnight we exchanged crews again, and parted with many expressions of + good-will—we to the southward, she to the eastward, for some + particular preserve believed in by her commander. + </p> + <p> + In process of time we made the land of Vau Vau, a picturesque, densely + wooded, and in many places precipitous, group of islands, the approach + being singularly free from dangers in the shape of partly hidden reefs. + Long and intricate were the passages we threaded, until we finally came to + anchor in a lovely little bay perfectly sheltered from all winds. We + moored, within a mile of a dazzling white beach, in twelve fathoms. A few + native houses embowered in orange and cocoa-nut trees showed here and + there, while the two horns of the bay were steep-to, and covered with + verdure almost down to the water's edge. The anchor was hardly down before + a perfect fleet of canoes flocked around us, all carrying the familiar + balancing outrigger, without which those narrow dugouts cannot possibly + keep upright. Their occupants swarmed on board, laughing and playing like + so many children, and with all sorts of winning gestures and tones + besought our friendship. "You my flem?" was the one question which all + asked; but what its import might be we could not guess for some time. + By-and-by it appeared that when once you had agreed to accept a native for + your "flem," or friend, he from henceforward felt in duty bound to attend + to all your wants which it lay within his power to supply. This important + preliminary settled, fruit and provisions of various kinds appeared as if + by magic. Huge baskets of luscious oranges, massive bunches of gold and + green bananas, clusters of green cocoa-nuts, conch-shells full of + chillies, fowls loudly protesting against their hard fate, gourds full of + eggs, and a few vociferous swine—all came tumbling on board in + richest profusion, and, strangest thing of all, not a copper was asked in + return. I might have as truly said nothing was asked, since money must + have been useless here. Many women came alongside, but none climbed on + board. Surprised at this, I asked Samuela the reason, as soon as I could + disengage him for a few moments from the caresses of his friends. He + informed me that the ladies' reluctance to favour us with their society + was owing to their being in native dress, which it is punishable to appear + in among white men, the punishment consisting of a rather heavy fine. Even + the men and boys, I noticed, before they ventured to climb on board, + stayed a while to put on trousers, or what did duty for those useful + articles of dress. At any rate, they were all clothed, not merely + enwrapped with a fold or two of "tapa," the native bark-cloth, but made + awkward and ugly by dilapidated shirts and pants. + </p> + <p> + She was a busy ship for the rest of that day. The anchor down, sails + furled and decks swept, the rest of the time was our own, and high jinks + were the result. The islanders were amiability personified, merry as + children, nor did I see or hear one quarrelsome individual among them. + While we were greedily devouring the delicious fruit, which was piled on + deck in mountainous quantities, they encouraged us, telling us that the + trees ashore were breaking down under their loads, and what a pity it was + that there were so few to eat such bountiful supplies. + </p> + <p> + We were, it appeared, the first whale-ship that had anchored there that + year, and, in that particular bay where we lay, no vessel had moored for + over two years. An occasional schooner from Sydney called at the "town" + about ten miles away, where the viceroy's house was, and at the present + time of speaking one of Godeffroi's Hamburg ships was at anchor there, + taking in an accumulation of copra from her agent's store. But the natives + all spoke of her with a shrug—"No like Tashman. Tashman no good." + Why, I could not ascertain. + </p> + <p> + Our Kanakas had promised to remain with us till our departure for the + south, so, hard as it seemed to them, they were not allowed to go ashore, + in case they might not come back, and leave us short-handed. But as their + relatives and friends could visit them whenever they felt inclined, the + restriction did not hurt them much. The next day, being Sunday, all hands + were allowed liberty to go ashore by turns (except the Kanakas), with + strict injunctions to molest no one, but to behave as if in a big town + guarded by policemen. As no money could be spent, none was given, and, + best of all, it was impossible to procure any intoxicating liquor. + </p> + <p> + Our party got ashore about 9.30, but not a soul was visible either on the + beach or in the sun-lit paths which led through the forest inland. Here + and there a house, with doors wide open, stood in its little cleared + space, silent and deserted. It was like a country without inhabitants. + Presently, however, a burst of melody arrested us, and borne upon the + scented breeze came oh, so sweetly!—the well-remembered notes of + "Hollingside." Hurriedly getting behind a tree, I let myself go, and had a + perfectly lovely, soul-refreshing cry. Reads funny, doesn't it? Sign of + weakness perhaps. But when childish memories come back upon one + torrent-like in the swell of a hymn or the scent of the hawthorn, it seems + to me that the flood-gates open without you having anything to do with it. + When I was a little chap in the Lock Chapel choir, before the evil days + came, that tune was my favourite; and when I heard it suddenly come + welling up out of the depths of the forest, my heart just stood still for + a moment, and then the tears came. Queer idea, perhaps, to some people; + but I do not know when I enjoyed myself so much as I did just then, except + when a boy of sixteen home from a voyage, and strolling along the + Knightsbridge Road, I "happened" into the Albert Hall. I did not in the + least know what was coming; the notices on the bills did not mean anything + to me; but I paid my shilling, and went up into the gallery. I had hardly + edged myself into a corner by the refreshment-stall, when a great breaker + of sound caught me, hurled me out of time, thought, and sense in one + intolerable ecstasy—"For unto us a Child is born; unto us a Son is + given"—again and again—billows and billows of glory. I gasped + for breath, shook like one in an ague fit; the tears ran down in a + continuous stream; while people stared amazed at me, thinking, I suppose, + that I was another drunken sailor. Well, I was drunk, helplessly + intoxicated, but not with drink, with something Divine, untellable, which, + coming upon me unprepared, simply swept me away with it into a heaven of + delight, to which only tears could testify. + </p> + <p> + But I am in the bush, whimpering over the tones of "Hollingside." As soon + as I had pulled myself together a bit, we went on again in the direction + of the sound, Presently we came to a large clearing, in the middle of + which stood a neat wooden, pandanus-thatched church. There were no doors + or windows to it, just a roof supported upon posts, but a wide verandah + ran all round, upon the edge of which we seated ourselves; for the place + was full—full to suffocation, every soul within miles, I should + think, being there. No white man was present, but the service, which was a + sort of prayer-meeting, went with a swing and go that was wonderful to + see. There was no perfunctory worship here; no one languidly enduring it + because it was "the right sort of thing to show up at, you know;" but all + were in earnest, terribly in earnest. When they sang, it behoved us to get + away to a little distance, for the vigour of the voices, unless mellowed + by distance, made the music decidedly harsh. Every one was dressed in + European clothing—the women in neat calico gowns; but the men, + nearly all of them, in woollen shirts, pilot-coats, and trousers to match, + and sea-boots! Whew! it nearly stifled me to look at them. The temperature + was about ninety degrees in the shade, with hardly a breath of air + stirring, yet those poor people, from some mistaken notion of propriety, + were sweating in torrents under that Arctic rig. However they could + worship, I do not know! At last the meeting broke up. The men rushed out, + tore off their coats, trousers, and shirts, and flung themselves panting + upon the grass, mother-naked, except for a chaplet of cocoanut leaves, + formed by threading them on a vine-tendril, and hanging round the waist. + </p> + <p> + Squatting by the side of my "flem," whom I had recognized, I asked him why + ever he outraged all reason by putting on such clothes in this boiling + weather. He looked at me pityingly for a moment before he replied, "You go + chapella Belitani? No put bes' close on top?" "Yes," I said; "but in hot + weather put on thin clothes; cold weather, put on thick ones." "S'pose no + got more?" he said, meaning, I presumed, more than the one suit. "Well," I + said, "more better stop 'way than look like big fool, boil all away, same + like duff in pot. You savvy duff?" He smiled a wide comprehensive smile, + but looked very solemn again, saying directly, "You no go chapella; you no + mishnally. No mishnally [missionary=godly]; very bad. Me no close; no go + chapella; vely bad. Evelly tangata, evelly fafine, got close all same + papalang [every man and woman has clothes like a white man]; go chapella + all day Sunday." That this was no figure of speech I proved fully that + day, for I declare that the recess between any of the services never + lasted more than an hour. Meanwhile the worshippers did not return to + their homes, for in many cases they had journeyed twenty or thirty miles, + but lay about in the verdure, refreshing themselves with fruit, + principally the delightful green cocoa-nuts, which furnish meat and drink + both—cool and refreshing in the extreme, as well as nourishing. + </p> + <p> + We were all heartily welcome to whatever was going, but there was a + general air of restraint, a fear of breaking the Sabbath, which prevented + us from trespassing too much upon the hospitality of these devout children + of the sun. So we contented ourselves with strolling through the beautiful + glades and woods, lying down, whenever we felt weary, under the shade of + some spreading orange tree loaded with golden fruit, and eating our fill, + or rather eating until the smarting of our lips warned us to desist. Here + was a land where, apparently, all people were honest, for we saw a great + many houses whose owners were absent, not one of which was closed, + although many had a goodly store of such things as a native might be + supposed to covet. At last, not being able to rid ourselves of the feeling + that we were doing something wrong, the solemn silence and Sundayfied air + of the whole region seeming to forbid any levity even in the most innocent + manner, we returned on board again, wonderfully impressed with what we had + seen, but wondering what would have happened if some of the ruffianly + crowds composing the crews of many ships had been let loose upon this fair + island. + </p> + <p> + In the evening we lowered a stage over the bows to the water's edge, and + had a swimming-match, the water being perfectly delightful, after the + great heat of the day, in its delicious freshness; and so to bunk, well + pleased indeed with our first Sunday in Vau Vau. + </p> + <p> + I have no doubt whatever that some of the gentry who swear at large about + the evils of missionaries would have been loud in their disgust at the + entire absence of drink and debauchery, and the prevalence of what they + would doubtless characterize as adjective hypocrisy on the part of the + natives; but no decent man could help rejoicing at the peace, the + security, and friendliness manifested on every hand, nor help awarding + unstinted praise to whoever had been the means of bringing about so + desirable a state of things. I felt that their Sabbatarianism was carried + to excess; that they would have been better, not worse, for a little less + church, and a little more innocent fun; but ten thousand times better thus + than such scenes of lust let loose and abandoned animalism as we witnessed + at Honolulu. What pleased me mightily was the absence of the white man + with his air of superiority and sleek overlordship. All the worship, all + the management of affairs, was entirely in the hands of the natives + themselves, and excellently well did they manage everything. + </p> + <p> + I shall never forget once going ashore in a somewhat similar place, but + very far distant, one Sunday morning, to visit the mission station. It was + a Church mission, and a very handsome building the church was. By the side + of it stood the parsonage, a beautiful bungalow, nestling in a perfect + paradise of tropical flowers. The somewhat intricate service was + conducted, and the sermon preached, entirely by natives—very + creditably too. After service I strolled into the parsonage to see the + reverend gentleman in charge, whom I found supporting his burden in a long + chair, with a tall glass of brandy and soda within easy reach, a fine + cigar between his lips, and a late volume of Ouida's in his hand. All very + pleasant and harmless, no doubt, but hardly reconcilable with the ideal + held up in missionary magazines. Yet I have no doubt whatever that this + gentleman would have been heartily commended by the very men who can + hardly find words harsh enough to express their opinion of missionaries of + the stamp of Paton, Williams, Moffat, and Mackenzie. + </p> + <p> + Well, it is highly probable—nay, almost certain, that I shall be + accused of drawing an idyllic picture of native life from first + impressions, which, if I had only had sufficient subsequent experience + among the people, I should have entirely altered. All I can say is, that + although I did not live among them ashore, we had a number of them on + board; we lay in the island harbour five months, during which I was ashore + nearly every day, and from habit I observed them very closely; yet I + cannot conscientiously alter one syllable of what I have written + concerning them. Bad men and women there were, of course, to be found—as + where not?—but the badness, in whatever form, was not allowed to + flaunt itself, and was so sternly discountenanced by public (entirely + native) opinion, that it required a good deal of interested seeking to + find. + </p> + <p> + But after all this chatter about my amiable friends, I find myself in + danger of forgetting the purpose of our visit. We lost no time in + preparation, since whaling of whatever sort is conducted in these ships on + precisely similar lines, but on Monday morning, at daybreak, after a + hurried breakfast, lowered all boats and commenced the campaign. We were + provided with boxes—one for each boat—containing a light + luncheon, but no ordered meal, because it was not considered advisable to + in any way hamper the boat's freedom to chase. Still, in consideration of + its being promptly dumped overboard on attacking a whale, a goodly + quantity of fruit was permitted in the boats. + </p> + <p> + In the calm beauty of the pearly dawn, with a gentle hush over all nature, + the lofty, tree-clad hills reflected with startling fidelity in the + glassy, many-coloured waters, the only sound audible the occasional + cra-a-ake of the advance-guard of a flight of fruit-bats (PECA) homeward + from their nocturnal depredations, we shipped our oars and started, + pulling to a certain position whence we could see over an immense area. + Immediately upon rounding the horn of our sheltered bay, the fresh breeze + of the south-east trades met us right on end with a vigour that made a + ten-mile steady pull against it somewhat of a breather. Arriving at the + station indicated by the chief, we set sail, and, separating as far as + possible without losing sight of each other, settled down for the day's + steady cruise. Anything more delightful than that excursion to those who + love seashore scenery combined with boat-sailing would be difficult to + name. Every variety of landscape, every shape of strait, bay, or estuary, + reefs awash, reefs over which we could sail, ablaze with loveliness + inexpressible; a steady, gentle, caressing breeze, and overhead one + unvarying canopy of deepest blue. Sometimes, when skirting the base of + some tremendous cliffs, great caution was necessary, for at one moment + there would obtain a calm, death-like in its stillness; the next, down + through a canyon cleaving the mountain to the water's edge would come + rushing with a shrill howl, a blast fierce enough to almost lift us out of + the water. Away we would scud with flying sheets dead before it, in a + smother of spray, but would hardly get full way on her before it was gone, + leaving us in the same hush as before, only a dark patch on the water far + to leeward marking its swift rush. These little diversions gave us no uneasiness, + for it was an unknown thing to make a sheet fast in one of our boats, so + that a puff of wind never caught us unprepared. + </p> + <p> + On that first day we seemed to explore such a variety of stretches of + water that one would hardly have expected there could be any more + discoveries to make in that direction. Nevertheless, each day's cruise + subsequently revealed to us some new nook or other, some quiet haven or + pretty passage between islands that, until closely approached, looked like + one. When, at sunset, we returned to the ship, not having seen anything + like a spout, I felt like one who had been in a dream, the day's cruise + having surpassed all my previous experience. Yet it was but the precursor + of many such. Oftentimes I think of those halcyon days, with a sigh of + regret that they can never more be renewed to me; but I rejoice to think + that nothing can rob me of the memory of them. + </p> + <p> + Much to the discomfort of the skipper, it was four days before a solitary + spout was seen, and then it was so nearly dark that before the fish could + be reached it was impossible to distinguish her whereabouts. A careful + bearing was taken of the spot, in the hope that she might be lingering in + the vicinity next morning, and we hastened on board. + </p> + <p> + Before it was fairly light we lowered, and paddled as swiftly as possible + to the bay where we had last seen the spout overnight. When near the spot + we rested on our paddles a while, all hands looking out with intense + eagerness for the first sign of the whale's appearance. There was a + strange feeling among us of unlawfulness and stealth, as of ambushed + pirates waiting to attack some unwary merchantman, or highwaymen waylaying + a fat alderman on a country road. We spoke in whispers, for the morning + was so still that a voice raised but ordinarily would have reverberated + among the rocks which almost overhung us, multiplied indefinitely. A + turtle rose ghost-like to the surface at my side, lifting his queer head, + and, surveying us with stony gaze, vanished as silently as he came. + </p> + <p> + What a sigh! One looked at the other inquiringly, but the repetition of + that long expiration satisfied us all that it was the placid breathing of + the whale we sought somewhere close at hand, The light grew rapidly + better, and we strained our eyes in every direction to discover the + whereabouts of our friend, but, for some minutes without result. There was + a ripple just audible, and away glided the mate's boat right for the near + shore. Following him with our eyes, we almost immediately beheld a pale, + shadowy column of white, shimmering against the dark mass of the cliff not + a quarter of a mile away. Dipping our paddles with the utmost care, we + made after the chief, almost holding our breath. His harpooner rose, + darted once, twice, then gave a yell of triumph that ran re-echoing all + around in a thousand eerie vibrations, startling the drowsy PECA in + myriads from where they hung in inverted clusters on the trees above. But, + for all the notice taken by the whale, she might never have been touched. + Close nestled to her side was a youngling of not more, certainly, than + five days old, which sent up its baby-spout every now and then about two + feet into the air. One long, wing-like fin embraced its small body, + holding it close to the massive breast of the tender mother, whose only + care seemed to be to protect her young, utterly regardless of her own pain + and danger. If sentiment were ever permitted to interfere with such + operations as ours, it might well have done so now; for while the calf + continually sought to escape from the enfolding fin, making all sorts of + puny struggles in the attempt, the mother scarcely moved from her + position, although streaming with blood from a score of wounds. Once, + indeed, as a deep-searching thrust entered her very vitals, she raised her + massy flukes high in air with an apparently involuntary movement of agony; + but even in that dire throe she remembered the possible danger to her + young one, and laid the tremendous weapon as softly down upon the water as + if it were a feather fan. + </p> + <p> + So in the most perfect quiet, with scarcely a writhe, nor any sign of + flurry, she died, holding the calf to her side until her last vital spark + had fled, and left it to a swift despatch with a single lance-thrust. No + slaughter of a lamb ever looked more like murder. Nor, when the vast bulk + and strength of the animal was considered, could a mightier example have + been given of the force and quality of maternal love. + </p> + <p> + The whole business was completed in half an hour from the first sight of + her, and by the mate's hand alone, none of the other boats needing to use + their gear. As soon as she was dead, a hole was bored through the lips, + into which a tow-line was secured, the two long fins were lashed close + into the sides of the animal by an encircling line, the tips of the flukes + were cut off, and away we started for the ship. We had an eight-mile tow + in the blazing sun, which we accomplished in a little over eight, hours, + arriving at the vessel just before two p.m. News of our coming had + preceded us, and the whole native population appeared to be afloat to make + us welcome. The air rang again with their shouts of rejoicing, for our + catch represented to them a gorgeous feast, such as they had not indulged + in for many a day. The flesh of the humpbacked whale is not at all bad, + being but little inferior to that of the porpoise; so that, as these + people do not despise even the coarse rank flesh of the cachalot, their + enthusiasm was natural. Their offers of help were rather embarrassing to + us, as we could find little room for any of them in the boats, and the + canoes only got in our way. Unable to assist us, they vented their + superfluous energies on the whale in the most astounding aquatic antics + imaginable—diving under it; climbing on to it; pushing and rolling + each other headlong over its broad back; shrieking all the while with the + frantic, uncontrollable laughter of happy children freed from all + restraint. Men, women, and children all mixed in this wild, watery spree; + and as to any of them getting drowned, the idea was utterly absurd. + </p> + <p> + When we got it alongside, and prepared to cut in, all the chaps were able + to have a rest, there were so many eager volunteers to man the windlass, + not only willing but, under the able direction of their compatriots + belonging to our crew, quite equal to the work of heaving in blubber. All + their habitual indolence was cast aside. Toiling like Trojans, they made + the old windlass rattle again as they spun the brakes up and down, every + blanket-piece being hailed with a fresh volley of eldritch shrieks, enough + to alarm a deaf and dumb asylum. + </p> + <p> + With such ample aid, it was, as may be supposed a brief task to skin our + prize, although the strange arrangement of the belly blubber caused us to + lift some disappointing lengths. This whale has the blubber underneath the + body lying in longitudinal corrugations, which, when hauled off the + carcass at right angles to their direction, stretch out flat to four or + five times their normal area. Thus, when the cutting-blocks had reached + their highest limit, and the piece was severed from the body, the folds + flew together again leaving dangling aloft but a miserable square of some + four or five feet, instead of a fine "blanket" of blubber twenty by five. + Along the edges of these RUGAE, as also upon the rim of the lower jaw, + abundance of limpets and barnacles had attached themselves, some of the + former large as a horse's hoof, and causing prodigious annoyance to the + toiling carpenter, whose duty it was to keep the spades ground. It was no + unusual thing for a spade to be handed in with two or three gaps in its + edge half an inch deep, where they had accidentally come across one of + those big pieces of flinty shell, undistinguishable from the grey + substance of the belly blubber. + </p> + <p> + But, in spite of these drawbacks, in less than ninety minutes the last cut + was reached, the vertebra severed, and away went the great mass of meat, + in tow of countless canoes, to an adjacent point, where, in eager + anticipation, fires were already blazing for the coming cookery. An + enormous number of natives had gathered from far and near, late arrivals + continually dropping in from all points of the compass with breathless + haste. No danger of going short need have troubled them, for, large as + were their numbers, the supply was evidently fully equal to all demands. + All night long the feast proceeded, and, even when morning dawned, busy + figures were still discernible coming and going between the reduced + carcass and the fires, as if determined to make an end of it before their + operations ceased. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXI. PROGRESS OF THE "HUMPBACK" SEASON + </h2> + <p> + It will probably be inferred from the foregoing paragraph that we were + little troubled with visits from the natives next day; but it would be + doing them an injustice if I omitted to state that our various "flems" put + in an appearance as usual with their daily offerings of fruit, vegetables, + etc. They all presented a somewhat jaded and haggard look, as of men who + had dined not wisely but too well, nor did the odour of stale whale-meat + that clung to them add to their attractions. Repentance for excesses or + gluttony did not seem to trouble them, for they evidently considered it + would have been a sin not to take with both hands the gifts the gods had + so bountifully provided. Still, they did not stay long, feeling, no doubt, + sore need of a prolonged rest after their late arduous exertions; so, + after affectionate farewells, they left us again to our greasy task of + trying-out. + </p> + <p> + The cow proved exceedingly fat, making us, though by no means a large + specimen, fully fifty barrels of oil. The whalebone (baleen) was so short + as to be not worth the trouble of curing, so, with the exception of such + pieces as were useful to the "scrimshoners" for ornamenting their + nicknacks, it was not preserved. On the evening of the third day the work + was so far finished that we were able to go ashore for clothes-washing, + which necessary process was accompanied with a good deal of fun and + hilarity. In the morning cruising was resumed again. + </p> + <p> + For a couple of days we met with no success, although we had a very + aggravating chase after some smart bulls we fell in with, to our mutual + astonishment, just as we rounded a point of the outermost island. They + were lazily sunning themselves close under the lee of the cliffs, which at + that point were steep-to, having a depth of about twenty fathoms close + alongside. A fresh breeze was blowing, so we came round the point at a + great pace, being almost among them before they had time to escape. They + went away gaily along the land, not attempting to get seaward, we + straining every nerve to get alongside of them. Whether they were + tantalizing us or not, I cannot say, but certainly it looked like it. In + spite of their well-known speed, we were several times so close in their + wake that the harpooners loosed the tacks of the jibs to get a clear shot; + but as they did so the nimble monsters shot ahead a length or two, leaving + us just out of reach. It was a fine chase while it lasted, though + annoying; yet one could hardly help feeling amused at the way they + wallowed along—just like a school of exaggerated porpoises. At last, + after nearly two hours of the fun, they seemed to have had enough of it, + and with one accord headed seaward at a greatly accelerated pace, as who + should say, "Well, s' long, boys; company's very pleasant and all that, + but we've got important business over at Fiji, and can't stay fooling + around here any longer." In a quarter of an hour they were out of sight, + leaving us disgusted and outclassed pursuers sneaking back again to + shelter, feeling very small. Not that we could have had much hope of + success under the circumstances, knowing the peculiar habits of the + humpback and the almost impossibility of competing with him in the open + sea; but they had lured us on to forget all these things in the ardour of + the chase, and then exposed our folly. + </p> + <p> + Then ensued a week or two of uneventful cruising, broken only by the + capture of a couple of cows—one just after the fruitless chase + mentioned above, and one several days later. These events, though + interesting enough to us, were marked by no such deviation from the + ordinary course as to make them worthy of special attention; nor do I + think that the cold-blooded killing of a cow-whale, who dies patiently + endeavouring to protect her young, is a subject that lends itself to + eulogium. + </p> + <p> + However, just when the delightful days were beginning to pall upon us, a + real adventure befell us, which, had we been attending strictly to + business, we should not have encountered. For a week previous we had been + cruising constantly without ever seeing a spout, except those belonging to + whales out at sea, whither we knew it was folly to follow them. We tried + all sorts of games to while away the time, which certainly did hang heavy, + the most popular of which was for the whole crew of the boat to strip, + and, getting overboard, be towed along at the ends of short warps, while I + sailed her. It was quite mythological—a sort of rude reproduction of + Neptune and his attendant Tritons. At last, one afternoon as we were + listlessly lolling (half asleep, except the look-out man) across the + thwarts, we suddenly came upon a gorge between two cliffs that we must + have passed before several times unnoticed. At a certain angle it opened, + disclosing a wide sheet of water, extending a long distance ahead. I put + the helm up, and we ran through the passage, finding it about a boat's + length in width and several fathoms deep, though overhead the cliffs + nearly came together in places. Within, the scene was very beautiful, but + not more so than many similar ones we had previously witnessed. Still, as + the place was new to us, our languor was temporarily dispelled, and we + paddled along, taking in every feature of the shores with keen eyes that + let nothing escape. After we had gone on in this placid manner for maybe + an hour, we suddenly came to a stupendous cliff—that is, for those + parts—rising almost sheer from the water for about a thousand feet. + Of itself it would not have arrested our attention, but at its base was a + semicircular opening, like the mouth of a small tunnel. This looked + alluring, so I headed the boat for it, passing through a deep channel + between two reefs which led straight to the opening. There was ample room + for us to enter, as we had lowered the mast; but just as we were passing + through, a heave of the unnoticed swell lifted us unpleasantly near the + crown of this natural arch. Beneath us, at a great depth, the bottom could + be dimly discerned, the water being of the richest blue conceivable, which + the sun, striking down through, resolved into some most marvellous + colour-schemes in the path of its rays. A delicious sense of coolness, + after the fierce heat outside, saluted us as we entered a vast hall, whose + roof rose to a minimum height of forty feet, but in places could not be + seen at all. A sort of diffused light, weak, but sufficient to reveal the + general contour of the place, existed, let in, I supposed, through some + unseen crevices in the roof or walls. At first, of course, to our eyes + fresh from the fierce glare outside, the place seemed wrapped in + impenetrable gloom, and we dared not stir lest we should run into some + hidden danger. Before many minutes, however, the gloom lightened as our + pupils enlarged, so that, although the light was faint, we could find our + way about with ease. We spoke in low tones, for the echoes were so + numerous and resonant that even a whisper gave back from those massy walls + in a series of recurring hisses, as if a colony of snakes had been + disturbed. + </p> + <p> + We paddled on into the interior of this vast cave, finding everywhere the + walls rising sheer from the silent, dark waters, not a ledge or a crevice + where one might gain foothold. Indeed, in some places there was a + considerable overhang from above, as if a great dome whose top was + invisible sprang from some level below the water. We pushed ahead until + the tiny semicircle of light through which we had entered was only faintly + visible; and then, finding there was nothing to be seen except what we + were already witnessing, unless we cared to go on into the thick darkness, + which extended apparently into the bowels of the mountain, we turned and + started to go back. Do what we would, we could not venture to break the + solemn hush that surrounded us as if we were shut within the dome of some + vast cathedral in the twilight, So we paddled noiselessly along for the + exit, till suddenly an awful, inexplicable roar set all our hearts + thumping fit to break our bosoms. Really, the sensation was most painful, + especially as we had not the faintest idea whence the noise came or what + had produced it. Again it filled that immense cave with its thunderous + reverberations; but this time all the sting was taken out of it, as we + caught sight of its author. A goodly bull-humpback had found his way in + after us, and the sound of his spout, exaggerated a thousand times in the + confinement of that mighty cavern, had frightened us all so that we nearly + lost our breath. So far, so good; but, unlike the old nigger, though we + were "doin' blame well," we did not "let blame well alone." The next spout + that intruder gave, he was right alongside of us. This was too much for + the semi-savage instincts of my gallant harpooner, and before I had time + to shout a caution he had plunged his weapon deep into old Blowhard's + broad back. + </p> + <p> + I should like to describe what followed, but, in the first place, I hardly + know; and, in the next, even had I been cool and collected, my + recollections would sound like the ravings of a fevered dream. For of all + the hideous uproars conceivable, that was, I should think, about the + worst. The big mammal seemed to have gone frantic with the pain of his + wound, the surprise of the attack, and the hampering confinement in which + he found himself. His tremendous struggles caused such a commotion that + our position could only be compared to that of men shooting Niagara in a + cylinder at night. How we kept afloat, I do not know. Some one had the + gumption to cut the line, so that by the radiation of the disturbance we + presently found ourselves close to the wall, and trying to hold the boat + in to it with our finger-tips. Would he never be quiet? we thought, as the + thrashing, banging, and splashing still went on with unfailing vigour. At + last, in, I suppose, one supreme effort to escape, he leaped clear of the + water like a salmon. There was a perceptible hush, during which we shrank + together like unfledged chickens on a frosty night; then, in a + never-to-be-forgotten crash that ought to have brought down the massy + roof, that mountainous carcass fell. The consequent violent upheaval of + the water should have smashed the boat against the rocky walls, but that + final catastrophe was mercifully spared us. I suppose the rebound was + sufficient to keep us a safe distance off. + </p> + <p> + A perfect silence succeeded, during which we sat speechless, awaiting a + resumption of the clamour. At last Abner broke the heavy silence by + saying, "I doan' see the do'way any mo' at all, sir." He was right. The + tide had risen, and that half-moon of light had disappeared, so that we + were now prisoners for many hours, it not being at all probable that we + should be able to find our way out during the night ebb. Well, we were not + exactly children, to be afraid of the dark, although there is considerable + difference between the velvety darkness of a dungeon and the clear, fresh + night of the open air. Still, as long as that beggar of a whale would only + keep quiet or leave the premises, we should be fairly comfortable. We + waited and waited until an hour had passed, and then came to the + conclusion that our friend was either dead or gone out, as he gave no sign + of his presence. + </p> + <p> + That being settled, we anchored the boat, and lit pipes, preparatory to + passing as comfortable a night as might be under the circumstances, the + only thing troubling me being the anxiety of the skipper on our behalf. + Presently the blackness beneath was lit up by a wide band of phosphoric + light, shed in the wake of no ordinary-sized fish, probably an immense + shark. Another and another followed in rapid succession, until the depths + beneath were all ablaze with brilliant foot-wide ribands of green glare, + dazzling to the eye and bewildering to the brain. Occasionally, a gentle + splash or ripple alongside, or a smart tap on the bottom of the boat, + warned us how thick the concourse was that had gathered below. Until that + weariness which no terror is proof against set in, sleep was impossible, + nor could we keep our anxious gaze from that glowing inferno beneath, + where one would have thought all the population of Tartarus were holding + high revel. Mercifully, at last we sank into a fitful slumber, though + fully aware of the great danger of our position. One upward rush of any of + those ravening monsters, happening to strike the frail shell of our boat, + and a few fleeting seconds would have sufficed for our obliteration as if + we had never been. + </p> + <p> + But the terrible night passed away, and once more we saw the tender, + irridescent light stream into that abode of dread. As the day + strengthened, we were able to see what was going on below, and a grim + vision it presented. The water was literally alive with sharks of enormous + size, tearing with never ceasing energy at the huge carcass of the whale + lying on the bottom, who had met his fate in a singular but not unheard-of + way. At that last titanic effort of his he had rushed downward with such + terrific force that, striking his head on the bottom, he had broken his + neck. I felt very grieved that we had lost the chance of securing him; but + it was perfectly certain that before we could get help to raise him, all + that would be left of his skeleton would be quite valueless to us. So with + such patience as we could command we waited near the entrance until the + receding ebb made it possible for us to emerge once more into the blessed + light of day. I was horrified at the haggard, careworn appearance of my + crew, who had all, excepting the two Kanakas, aged perceptibly during that + night of torment. But we lost no time in getting back to the ship, where I + fully expected a severe wigging for the scrape my luckless curiosity had + led me into. The captain, however, was very kind, expressing his pleasure + at seeing us all safe back again, although he warned me solemnly against + similar investigations in future. A hearty meal and a good rest did + wonders in removing the severe effects of our adventure, so that by next + morning we were all fit and ready for the days work again. + </p> + <p> + It certainly seemed as if I was in for a regular series of troubles. After + cruising till nearly two p.m., we fell in with the mate's boat, and were + sailing quietly along side by side, when we suddenly rounded a point and + ran almost on top of a bull-humpback that was basking in the beautiful + sunshine. The mate's harpooner, a wonderfully smart fellow, was not so + startled as to lose his chance, getting an iron well home before the + animal realized what had befallen him. We had a lovely fight, lasting over + an hour, in which all the marvellous agility with which this whale is + gifted was exerted to the full in order to make his escape. But with the + bottom not twenty fathoms away, we were sure of him. With all his supple + smartness, he had none of the dogged savagery of the cachalot about him, + nor did we feel any occasion to beware of his rushes, rather courting + them, so as to finish the game as quickly as possible. + </p> + <p> + He was no sooner dead than we hurried to secure him, and had actually + succeeded in passing the tow-line through his lips, when, in the trifling + interval that passed while we were taking the line aft to begin towing, he + started to sink. Of course it was, "let go all!" If you can only get the + slightest way on a whale of this kind, you are almost certain to be able + to keep him afloat, but once he begins to sink you cannot stop him. Down + he went, till full twenty fathoms beneath us he lay comfortably on the + reef, while we looked ruefully at one another. We had no gear with us fit + to raise him, and we were ten miles from the ship; evening was at hand, so + our prospects of doing anything that night were faint. + </p> + <p> + However, the mate decided to start off for home at once, leaving us there, + but promising to send back a boat as speedily as possible with provisions + and gear for the morning. There was a stiff breeze blowing, and he was + soon out of sight; but we were very uncomfortable. The boat, of course, + rode like a duck, but we were fully exposed to the open sea; and the + mighty swell of the Pacific, rolling in over those comparatively shallow + grounds, sometimes looked dangerously like breaking. Still, it was better + than the cave, and there was a good prospect of supper. Long before we + expected her, back came the boat, bringing bountiful provision of yams, + cold pork and fruit—a regular banquet to men who were fasting since + daylight. A square meal, a comforting pipe, and the night's vigil, which + had looked so formidable, no longer troubled us, although, to tell the + truth, we were heartily glad when the dawn began to tint the east with + pale emerald and gold. We set to work at once, getting the huge carcass to + the surface without as much labour as I had anticipated. Of course all + hands came to the rescue. + </p> + <p> + But, alas for the fruit of our labours! Those hungry monsters had + collected in thousands, and, to judge from what we were able to see of the + body, they had reduced its value alarmingly. However, we commenced towing, + and were getting along fairly well, when a long spur of reef to leeward of + us, over which the sea was breaking frightfully, seemed to be stretching + farther out to intercept us before we could get into smooth water. The + fact soon faced us that we were in the remorseless grip of a current that + set right over that reef, and against its steady stream all our efforts + were the merest triviality. Still, we hung on, struggling desperately to + keep what we had earned, until so close to the roaring, foaming line of + broken water, that one wave breaking farther out than the rest very nearly + swamped us all. One blow of an axe, one twirl of the steer-oars, and with + all the force we could muster we were pulling away from the very jaws of + death, leaving our whale to the hungry crowds, who would make short work + of him. Downcast indeed, at our bad luck, we returned on board, + disappointing the skipper very much with our report. Like the true + gentleman he was, though, recognizing that we had done our best, he did + not add to the trouble by cursing us all for a set of useless trash, as + his predecessor would have done; on the contrary, a few minutes after the + receipt of the bad news his face was as bright as ever, his laugh as + hearty as if there was no such thing as a misfortune in the world. + </p> + <p> + And now I must come to what has been on my mind so long—a tragedy + that, in spite of all that had gone before, and of what came after, is the + most indelible of all the memories which cling round me of that eventful + time. Abner Cushing, the Vermonter had declared at different times that he + should never see his native Green Mountain again. Since the change in our + commander, however, he had been another man—always silent and + reserved, but brighter, happier, and with a manner so improved as to make + it hard to recognize him for the same awkward, ungainly slab of a fellow + that had bungled everything he put his hand to. Taking stock of him + quietly during our day-long leisurely cruises in the boat, I often + wondered whether his mind still kept its gloomy forebodings, and brooded + over his tragical life-history. I never dared to speak to him on the + subject, for fear of arousing what I hoped was growing too faint for + remembrance. But at times I saw him in the moonlit evenings sitting on the + rail alone, steadfastly gazing down into the star-besprent waters beneath + him, as if coveting their unruffled peace. + </p> + <p> + Two-thirds of our stay in the islands had passed away, when, for a wonder, + the captain took it into his head to go up to the chief village one + morning. So he retained me on board, while the other three boats left for + the day's cruise as usual. One of the mate's crew was sick, and to replace + him he took Abner out of my boat. Away they went; and shortly after + breakfast-time I lowered, received the captain on board, and we started + for the capital. Upon our arrival there we interviewed the chief, a stout, + pleasant-looking man of about fifty, who was evidently held in great + respect by the natives, and had a chat with the white Wesleyan missionary + in charge of the station. About two p.m., after the captain's business was + over, we were returning under sail, when we suddenly caught sight of two + of our boats heading in towards one of the islands. We helped her with the + paddles to get up to them, seeing as we neared them the two long fins of a + whale close ahead of one of them. As we gazed breathlessly at the exciting + scene, we saw the boat rush in between the two flippers, the harpooner at + the same time darting an iron straight down. There was a whirl in the + waters, and quick as thought the vast flukes of the whale rose in the air, + recurving with a sidelong sweep as of some gigantic scythe. The blow shore + off the bow of the attacking boat as if it had been an egg-shell. + </p> + <p> + At the same moment the mate stooped, picked up the tow-line from its turn + round the logger-head, and threw it forward from him. He must have + unconsciously given a twist to his hand, for the line fell in a kink round + Abner's neck just as the whale went down with a rush. Struggling, + clutching at the fatal noose, the hapless man went flying out through the + incoming sea, and in one second was lost to sight for ever. Too late, the + harpooner cut the line which attached the wreck to the retreating animal, + leaving the boat free, but gunwale under. We instantly hauled alongside of + the wreck and transferred her crew, all dazed and horror-stricken at the + awful death of their late comrade. + </p> + <p> + I saw the tears trickle down the rugged, mahogany-coloured face of the + captain, and honoured him for it, but there was little time to waste in + vain regrets. It was necessary to save the boat, if possible, as we were + getting short of boat-repairing material; certainly we should not have + been able to build a new one. So, drawing the two sound boats together, + one on either side of the wreck, we placed the heavy steering oars across + them from side to side. We then lifted the battered fore part upon the + first oar, and with a big effort actually succeeded in lifting the whole + of the boat out of water upon this primitive pontoon. Then, taking the + jib, we "frapped" it round the opening where the bows had been, lashing it + securely in that position. Several hands were told off to jump into her + stern on the word, and all being ready we launched her again. The weight + of the chaps in her stern-sheets cocked her bows right out of water, and + in that position we towed her back to the ship, arriving safely before + dusk. + </p> + <p> + That evening we held a burial service, at which hundreds of natives + attended with a solemnity of demeanour and expressions of sorrow that + would not have been out of place at the most elaborate funeral in England + or America. It was a memorable scene. The big cressets were lighted, + shedding their wild glare over the dark sea, and outlining the spars + against the moonless sky with startling effect. When we had finished the + beautiful service, the natives, as if swayed by an irresistible impulse, + broke into the splendid tune St. Ann's; and I afterwards learned that the + words they sang were Dr. Watts' unsurpassable rendering of Moses' pean of + praise, "O God, our help in ages past." No elaborate ceremonial in + towering cathedral could begin to compare with the massive simplicity of + poor Abner's funeral honours, the stately hills for many miles reiterating + the sweet sounds, and carrying them to the furthest confines of the group. + </p> + <p> + Next day was Sunday, and, in pursuance of a promise given some time + before, I went ashore to my "flem's" to dinner, he being confined to the + house with a hurt leg. It was not by any means a festive gathering, for he + was more than commonly taciturn; his daughter Irene, a buxom lassie of + fourteen, who waited on us, appeared to be dumb; and his wife was "in the + straw." These trifling drawbacks, however, in nowise detracted from the + hospitality offered. The dining-room was a large apartment furnished with + leaves, the uprights of cocoa-nut tree, the walls and roof of pandanus + leaf. Beneath the heaps of leaves, fresh and sweet-scented, was the earth. + The inner apartment, or chamber of state, had a flooring of + highly-polished planks, and contained, I presume, the household gods; but + as it was in possession of my host's secluded spouse, I did not enter. + </p> + <p> + A couch upon a pile of leaves was hastily arranged, upon which I was + bidden to seat myself, while a freshly cut cocoa-nut of enormous size was + handed to me, the soft top sliced off so that I might drink its + deliciously cool contents. These nuts must grow elsewhere, but I have + never before or since seen any so large. When green—that is, before + the meat has hardened into indigestible matter—they contain from + three pints to two quarts of liquid, at once nourishing, refreshing, and + palatable. The natives appeared to drink nothing else, and I never saw a + drop of fresh water ashore during our stay. + </p> + <p> + Taking a huge knife from some hiding-place, Irene handed it to her father, + who at once commenced to dig in the ground by his side, while I looked on + wondering and amused. Presently he fished up a bundle of leaves bound with + a vine-tendril, which he laid carefully aside. More digging brought to + light a fine yam about three pounds in weight, which, after carefully + wiping the knife on some leaves, he proceeded to peel. It was immediately + evident that the yam was perfectly cooked, for it steamed as he removed + the skin, revealing the inside as white as milk. Some large, round leaves + were laid in front of me, and the yam placed upon them. Then mine host + turned his attention to the bundle first unearthed, which concealed a + chicken, so perfectly done that, although the bones drew out of the meat + as if it had been jelly, it was full of juice and flavour; and except for + a slight foreign twang, referrible, doubtless, to the leaves in which it + had been enwrapped, I do not think it could have been possible to cook + anything in a better way, or one more calculated to retain all the natural + juices of the meat. The fowl was laid beside the yam, another nut + broached; then, handing me the big knife, my "flem" bade me welcome, + informing me that I saw my dinner. As nothing would induce him to join me, + the idea being contrary to his notions of respect due to a guest, I was + fain to fall to, and an excellent meal I made. For dessert, a basketful of + such oranges freshly plucked as cannot be tasted under any other + conditions, and crimson bananas, which upon being peeled, looked like + curved truncheons of golden jelly, after tasting which I refused to touch + anything else. + </p> + <p> + A corn-cob cigarette closed the banquet, After expressing my thanks, I + noticed that the pain of his leg was giving my friend considerable + uneasiness, which he was stolidly enduring upon my account rather than + appear discourteously anxious to get rid of me. So, with the excuse that I + must needs be going, having another appointment, I left the good fellow + and strolled around to the chapel, where I sat enjoying the sight of those + simple-minded Kanakas at their devotions till it was time to return on + board. Before closing this chapter, I would like, for the benefit of such + of my readers who have not heard yet of Kanaka cookery, to say that it is + simplicity itself. A hole is scooped in the earth, in which a fire is made + (of wood), and kept burning until a fair-sized heap of glowing charcoal + remains. Pebbles are then thrown in until the charcoal is covered. + Whatever is to be cooked is enveloped in leaves, placed upon the pebbles, + and more leaves heaped upon it. The earth is then thrown back into the + cavity, and well stamped down. A long time is, of course, needed for the + viands to get cooked through; but so subtle is the mode that overdoing + anything is almost an impossibility. A couple of days may pass from the + time of "putting down" the joint, yet when it is dug up it will be smoking + hot, retaining all its juices, tender as jelly, but, withal, as full of + flavour as it is possible for cooked meat to be. No matter how large the + joint is, or how tough the meat, this gentle suasion will render it + succulent and tasty; and no form of civilized cookery can in the least + compare with it. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXII. FAREWELL TO VAU VAU + </h2> + <p> + Taking it all round, our visit to the Friendly Islands had not been + particularly fortunate up till the time of which I spoke at the conclusion + of the last chapter. Two-thirds of the period during which the season was + supposed to last had expired, but our catch had not amounted to more than + two hundred and fifty barrels of oil. Whales had been undoubtedly scarce, + for our ill-success on tackling bulls was not at all in consequence of our + clumsiness, these agile animals being always a handful, but due to the + lack of cows, which drove us to take whatever we could get, which, as has + been noted, was sometimes a severe drubbing. Energy and watchfulness had + been manifested in a marked degree by everybody, and when the news + circulated that our stay was drawing to a close, there was, if anything, + an increase of zeal in the hope that we might yet make a favourable + season. + </p> + <p> + But none of these valuable qualities exhibited by us could make up for the + lack of "fish" which was lamentably evident. It was not easy to understand + why, because these islands were noted as a breeding-place for the + humpbacked whale. Yet for years they had not been fished, so that a + plausible explanation of the paucity of their numbers as a consequence of + much harassing could not be reasonably offered. Still, after centuries of + whale-fishing, little is known of the real habits of whales, Where there + is abundance of "feed," in the case of MYSTICETA it may be reasonably + inferred that whales may be found in proportionately greater numbers. With + regard to the wider-spread classes of the great marine mammalia, beyond + the fact, ascertained from continued observation, that certain parts of + the ocean are more favoured by them than others, there is absolutely no + data to go upon as to why at times they seem to desert their usual haunts + and scatter themselves far and wide. + </p> + <p> + The case of the cachalot is still more difficult. All the BALAENAE seem to + be compelled, by laws which we can only guess at, to frequent the vicinity + of land possessing shallows at their breeding times, so that they may with + more or less certainty be looked for in such places at the seasons which + have been accurately fixed. They may be driven to seek other haunts, as + was undoubtedly the case at Vau Vau in a great measure, by some causes + unknown, but to land they must come at those times. The sperm whale, + however, needs no shelter at such periods, or, at any rate, does not avail + herself of any. They may often be seen in the vicinity of land where the + water is deep close to, but seldom with calves. Schools of cows with + recently born young gambolling about them are met with at immense + distances from land, showing no disposition to seek shelter either. For my + part, I firmly believe that the cachalot is so terrible a foe, that the + great sharks who hover round a gravid cow of the BALAENAE, driving her in + terror to some shallow spot where she may hope to protect her young, never + dare to approach a sperm cow on kidnapping errands, or any other if they + can help it, until their unerring guides inform them that life is extinct. + When a sperm whale is in health, nothing that inhabits the sea has any + chance with him; neither does he scruple to carry the war into the enemy's + country, since all is fish that comes to his net, and a shark fifteen feet + in length has been found in the stomach of a cachalot. + </p> + <p> + The only exception he seems to make is in the case of man. Instances have + several—nay, many times occurred where men have been slain by the + jaws of a cachalot crushing the boat in which they were; but their death + was of course incidental to the destruction of the boat. Never, as far as + I have been able to ascertain, has a cachalot attacked a man swimming or + clinging to a piece of wreckage, although such opportunities occur + innumerably. I have in another place told the story of how I once saw a + combat between a bull-cachalot and so powerful a combination of enemies + that even one knowing the fighting qualities of the sperm whale would have + hesitated to back him to win, but the yarn will bear repetition. + </p> + <p> + Two "killers" and a sword-fish, all of the largest size. Description of + these warriors is superfluous, since they are so well known to museums and + natural histories; but unless one has witnessed the charge of a XIPHIAS, + he cannot realize what a fearful foe it is. Still, as a practice, these + creatures leave the cachalot respectfully alone, knowing instinctively + that he is not their game. Upon this memorable occasion, however I guess + the two ORCAS were starving, and they had organized a sort of forlorn hope + with the XIPHIAS as an auxiliary who might be relied upon to ensure + success if it could be done. Anyhow, the syndicate led off with their main + force first; for while the two killers hung on the cachalot's flanks, + diverting his attention, the sword-fish, a giant some sixteen feet long, + launched himself at the most vulnerable part of the whale, for all the + world like a Whitehead torpedo. The wary eye of the whale saw the long, + dark mass coming, and, like a practised pugilist, coolly swerved, taking + for the nonce no notice of those worrying wolves astern. The shock came; + but instead of the sword penetrating three, or maybe four feet just where + the neck (if a whale has any neck) encloses the huge heart, it met the + mighty, impenetrable mass of the head, solid as a block of thirty tons of + india-rubber. + </p> + <p> + So the blow glanced, revealing a white streak running diagonally across + the eye, while the great XIPHIAS rolled helplessly over the top of that + black bastion. With a motion so rapid that the eye could scarcely follow + it, the whale turned, settling withal, and, catching the momentarily + motionless aggressor in the lethal sweep of those awful shears, crunched + him in two halves, which writhing sections he swallowed SERIATIM. And the + allied forces aft—what of them? Well, they had been rash—they + fully realized that fact, and would have fled, but one certainly found + that he had lingered on the scene too long. The thoroughly-roused + leviathan, with a reversal of his huge bulk that made the sea boil like a + pot, brandished his tail aloft and brought it down upon the doomed + "killer," making him at once the "killed." He was crushed like a shrimp + under one's heel. + </p> + <p> + The survivor fled—never faster—for an avalanche of living, + furious flesh was behind him, and coming with enormous leaps half out of + the sea every time. Thus they disappeared, but I have no doubts as to the + issue. Of one thing I am certain—that, if any of the trio survived, + they never afterwards attempted to rush a cachalot. + </p> + <p> + Strange to say, the sperm whale does not appear to be a fond mother. At + the advent of danger she often deserts her offspring and in such cases it + is hardly conceivable that she ever finds it again. It is true that she is + not gifted with such long "arms" as the BALAENAE wherewith to cuddle her + young one to her capacious bosom while making tracks from her enemies; nor + is she much "on the fight," not being so liberally furnished with jaw as + the fierce and much larger bull—for this is the only species of + whale in which there exists a great disproportion between the sexes in + point of size. Such difference as may obtain between the MYSTICETA is + slightly in favour of the female. I never heard of a cow-cachalot yielding + more than fifty barrels of oil; but I have both heard of, and seen, bulls + carrying one hundred and fifty. One individual taken by us down south was + seventy feet long, and furnished us with more than the latter amount; but + I shall come to him by-and-by. Just one more point before leaving this (to + me) fascinating subject for the present. + </p> + <p> + To any one studying the peculiar configuration of a cachalot's mouth, it + would appear a difficult problem how the calf could suck. Certainly it + puzzled me more than a little. But, when on the "line" grounds we got + among a number of cows one calm day, I saw a little fellow about fifteen + feet long, apparently only a few days old, in the very act. The mother lay + on one side, with the breast nearly at the waters edge; while the calf, + lying parallel to its parent, with its head in the same direction, held + the teat sideways in the angle of its jaw, with its snout protruding from + the surface. Although we caught several cow-humpbacks with newly born + calves, I never had an opportunity of seeing THEM suck. + </p> + <p> + Gradually our pleasant days at Vau Vau drew to a close. So quiet and + idyllic had the life been, so full of simple joys, that most of us, if not + all, felt a pang at the thought of our imminent departure from the + beautiful place. Profitable, in a pecuniary sense, the season had + certainly failed to be, but that was the merest trifle compared with the + real happiness and peace enjoyed during our stay. Even the terrible + tragedy which had taken one of our fellows from us could not spoil the + actual enjoyment of our visit, sad and touching as the event undoubtedly + was. There was always, too, a sufficiently arduous routine of necessary + duties to perform, preventing us from degenerating into mere lotus eaters + in that delicious afternoon-land. Nor even to me, friendless nomad as I + was, did the thought ever occur, "I will return no more." + </p> + <p> + But these lovely days spent in softly gliding over the calm, azure depths, + bathed in golden sunlight, gazing dreamily down at the indescribable + beauties of the living reefs, feasting daintily on abundance of + never-cloying fruit, amid scenes of delight hardly to be imagined by the + cramped mind of the town dweller; islands, air, and sea all shimmering in + an enchanted haze, and silence scarcely broken by the tender ripple of the + gently-parted waters before the boat's steady keel—though these joys + have all been lost to me, and I in "populous city pent" endure the fading + years, I would not barter the memory of them for more than I can say, so + sweet it is to me. And, then, our relations with the natives had been so + perfectly amicable, so free from anything to regret. Perhaps this simple + statement will raise a cynical smile upon the lips of those who know + Tahati, the New Hebrides, and kindred spots with all their savage, bestial + orgies of alternate unbridled lust and unnamable cruelty. Let it be so. + For my part, I rejoice that I have no tale of weeks of drunkenness, of + brutal rape, treacherous murder, and almost unthinkable torture to tell. + </p> + <p> + For of such is the paradise of the beach-comber, and the hell of the clean + man. Not that I have been able to escape it altogether. When I say that I + once shipped, unwittingly, as sailing-master of a little white schooner in + Noumea, bound to Apia, finding when too late that she was a "blackbirder"—"labour + vessel," the wise it call—nothing more will be needed to convince + the initiated that I have moved in the "nine circles" of Polynesia. + </p> + <p> + Some time before the day fixed for our departure, we were busy storing the + gifts so liberally showered upon us by our eager friends. Hundreds of + bunches of bananas, many thousands of oranges, yams, taro, chillies, + fowls, and pigs were accumulated, until the ship looked like a huge + market-boat. But we could not persuade any of the natives to ship with us + to replace those whoso contract was now expiring. Samuela and Polly were, + after much difficulty, prevailed upon by me to go with us to New Zealand, + much to my gratification; but still we were woefully short-handed, At + last, seeing that there was no help for it, the skipper decided to run + over to Futuna, or Horn Island, where he felt certain of obtaining + recruits without any trouble. He did so most unwillingly, as may well be + believed, for the newcomers would need much training, while our present + Kanaka auxiliaries were the smartest men in the ship. + </p> + <p> + The slop-chest was largely drawn upon, to the credit of the crew, who + wished in some tangible way to show their appreciation of the unremitting + kindness shown them by their dusky friends. Not a whisper had been uttered + by any native as to desire of remuneration for what he had given. If they + expected a return, they certainly exercised great control over themselves + in keeping their wishes quiet. But when they received the clothing, all + utterly unsuited to their requirements as it was, their beaming faces + eloquently proclaimed the reality of their joy. Heavy woollen shirts, + thick cloth trousers and jackets, knitted socks; but acceptable beyond all + was a pilot-suit—warm enough for the Channel in winter. Happy above + all power of expression was he who secured it. With an eared cloth cap and + a pair of half boots, to complete his preposterous rig, no Bond Street + exquisite could feel more calmly conscious of being a well-dressed man + than he. From henceforth he would be the observed of all observers at + chapel on Sunday, exciting worldly desires and aspirations among his + cooler but coveting fellow-worshippers. + </p> + <p> + The ladies fared very badly, until the skipper, with a twinkling eye, + announced that he had "dug up" some rolls of "cloth" (calico), which he + was prepared to supply us with at reasonable rates. Being of rather pretty + pattern, it went off like hot pies, and as the "fathoms" of gaudy, flimsy + material were distributed to the delighted fafines, their shrill cries of + gratitude were almost deafening. + </p> + <p> + Inexorable time brought round the morning of our departure. Willing hands + lifted our anchor, and hoisted the sails, so that we had nothing to do but + look on. A scarcely perceptible breeze, stealing softly over the + tree-tops, filled our upper canvas, sparing us the labour of towing her + out of the little bay where we had lain so long, and gradually wafted us + away from its lovely shores, amid the fast-flowing tears of the great + crowd. With multitudinous cries of "Ofa, al-ofa, papalang" ringing in our + ears ("Good-bye; good-bye, white man"), we rounded the point, and, with + increasing pace, bore away through the outlying islands for the open sea. + There was a strong trade blowing, making the old barky caper like a + dancing-master, which long unfamiliar motion almost disagreed with some of + us, after our long quiet. Under its hastening influence we made such good + time that before dinner Vau Vau had faded into nothingness, mingling like + the clouds with the soft haze on the horizon, from henceforth only a + memory. + </p> + <p> + We were not a very cheerful crowd that night, most of us being busy with + his own reflections. I must confess that I felt far greater sorrow at + leaving Vau Vau than ever I did at leaving England; because by the time I + was able to secure a berth, I have usually drunk pretty deep of the bitter + cup of the "outward bounder," than whom there is no more forlorn, + miserable creature on earth. No one but the much abused boarding-master + will have anything to do with him, and that worthy is generally careful to + let him know that he is but a hanger-on, a dependant on sufferance for a + meal, and that his presence on shore is an outrage. As for the sailors' + homes, I have hardly patience to speak of them. I know the sailor is + usually a big baby that wants protecting against himself, and that once + within the four walls of the institution he is safe; but right there + commendation must end. Why are good folks ashore systematically misled + into the belief that the sailor is an object of charity, and that it is + necessary to subscribe continually and liberally to provide him with food + and shelter when ashore? Most of the contributors would be surprised to + know that the cost of board and lodging at the "home" is precisely the + same as it is outside, and much higher than a landsman of the same grade + can live for in better style. With the exception of the sleeping + accommodation, most men prefer the boarding-house, where, if they preserve + the same commercial status which is a SINE QUA NON at the "home," they are + treated like gentlemen; but in what follows lies the essential difference, + and the reason for this outburst of mine, smothered in silence for years. + An "outward bounder"—that is, a man whose money is exhausted and who + is living upon the credit; of his prospective advance of pay—is + unknown at the "home." No matter what the condition of things is in the + shipping world; though the man may have fought with energy to get his + discharge accepted among the crowd at the "chain-locker;" though he be + footsore and weary with "looking for a ship," when his money is done, out + into the street he must go, if haply he may find a speculative + boarding-master to receive him. This act, although most unlikely in + appearance, is often performed; and though the boarding-master, of course, + expects to recoup himself out of the man's advance note, it is none the + less as merciful as the action of the "home" authorities is merciless. Of + course a man may go to the "straw house," or, as it is grandiloquently + termed, the "destitute seaman's asylum," where for a season he will be fed + on the refuse from the "home," and sheltered from the weather. But the + ungrateful rascals do not like the "straw house," and use very bad + language about it. + </p> + <p> + The galling thing about the whole affair is that the "sailors' home" + figures in certain official publications as a charity, which must be + partially supported by outside contributions. It may be a charitable + institution, but it certainly is not so to the sailor, who pays fully for + everything he receives. The charity is bestowed upon a far different class + of people to merchant Jack. Let it be granted that a man is sober and + provident, always getting a ship before his money is all gone, he will + probably be well content at the home, although very few seamen like to be + reminded ashore of their sea routine, as the manner of the home is. If the + institution does not pay a handsome dividend, with its clothing shops and + refreshment bars, as well as the boarding-house lousiness on such a large + scale, only one inference can be fairly drawn—there must be + something radically wrong with the management. + </p> + <p> + After this burst of temper, perhaps I had better get back to the subject + in hand. It was, I suppose, in the usual contrary nature of things that, + while we were all in this nearly helpless condition, one evening just + before sunset, along comes a sperm whale. Now, the commonest prudence + would have suggested letting him severely alone, since we were not only + short-handed, but several of our crew were completely crippled by large + boils; but it would have been an unprecedented thing to do while there was + any room left in the hold. Consequently we mustered the halt and the lame, + and manned two boats—all we could do—leaving the almost + useless cripples to handle the ship. Not to displace the rightful + harpooner, I took an oar in one of them, headed by the captain. + </p> + <p> + At first my hopes were high that we should not succeed in reaching the + victim before dark, but I was grievously disappointed in this. Just as the + whale was curving himself to sound, we got fairly close, and the harpooner + made a "pitch-pole" dart; that is, he hurled his weapon into the air, + where it described a fine curve, and fell point downward on the animal's + back just as he was disappearing. He stopped his descent immediately, and + turned savagely to see what had struck him so unexpectedly. At that moment + the sun went down. + </p> + <p> + After the first few minutes' "kick-up," he settled down for a steady run, + but not before the mate got good and fast to him likewise. Away we went at + a rare rate into the gathering gloom of the fast-coming night. Now, had it + been about the time of full moon or thereabouts, we should doubtless have + been able, by the flood of molten light she sends down in those latitudes, + to give a good account of our enemy; but alas for us, it was not. The sky + overhead was a deep blue-black, with steely sparkles of starlight + scattered all over it, only serving to accentuate the darkness. After a + short time our whale became totally invisible, except for the phosphoric + glare of the water all around him as he steadily ploughed his way along. + There was a good breeze blowing, which soon caused us all to be drenched + with the spray, rendering the general effect of things cold as well as + cheerless. Needless to say, we strove with all our might to get alongside + of him, so that an end might be put to so unpleasant a state of affairs; + but in our crippled condition it was not at all easy to do so. + </p> + <p> + We persevered, however, and at last managed to get near enough for the + skipper to hurl a lance into the brightness of which the whale formed the + centre. It must have touched him, for he gave a bound forward and + disappeared. We suddenly came to a standstill, but in a moment were + whirled round as if on a pivot, and away we went in the opposite + direction. He had turned a complete somersault in the water beneath us, + giving us a "grue" as we reflected what would have happened had he then + chosen to come bounding to the surface. This manoeuvre seemed to please + him mightily, for he ran at top speed several minutes, and then repeated + it. This time he was nearly successful in doing us some real harm, for it + was now so dark that we could hardly see the other boat's form as she + towed along parallel to us about three or four lengths away. The two boats + swung round in a wide circle, rushing back at each other out of the + surrounding darkness as if bent on mutual destruction. Only by the + smartest manipulation was a collision avoided, which, as each boat's bows + bristled with lances and harpoons, would have been a serious matter for + some of us. However, the whale did not have it all his own way, for the + skipper, having charged his bomb-gun, patiently laid for him, and fired. + It was rather a long shot, but it reached him, as we afterwards + ascertained, making an ugly wound in the small near his tail. + </p> + <p> + Its effect upon him was startling and immediate. He rushed off at so + furious a rate dead to windward that for a great while we had all our work + cut out to keep her free by baling. The sea had risen a little, and as we + leapt from one wave to another the spray flew over us in an almost + continuous cloud. Clearly our situation was a parlous one. We could not + get near him; we were becoming dangerously enfeebled, and he appeared to + be gaining strength instead of losing it. Besides all this, none of us + could have the least idea of how the ship now bore from us, our only + comfort being that, by observation of the Cross, we were not making a + direct course, but travelling on the circumference of an immense circle. + Whatever damage we had done to him so far was evidently quite superficial, + for, accustomed as we were to tremendous displays of vigour on the part of + these creatures, this specimen fairly surprised us. + </p> + <p> + The time could only be guessed at; but, judging from our feelings, it + might have been two or three nights long. Still, to all things an end, so + in the midst of our dogged endurance of all this misery we felt the pace + give, and took heart of grace immediately. Calling up all our reserves, we + hauled up on to him, regardless of pain or weariness. The skipper and mate + lost no opportunities of lancing, once they were alongside, but worked + like heroes, until a final plunging of the fast-dying leviathan warned us + to retreat. Up he went out of the glittering foam into the upper darkness, + while we held our breath at the unique sight of a whale breaching at + night. But when he fell again the effect was marvellous. Green columns of + water arose on either side of the descending mass as if from the bowels of + the deep, while their ghostly glare lit up the encircling gloom with a + strange, weird radiance, which reflected in our anxious faces, made us + look like an expedition from the FLYING DUTCHMAN. A short spell of + gradually quieting struggle succeeded as the great beast succumbed, until + all was still again, except the strange, low surge made by the waves as + they broke over the bank of flesh passively obstructing their free sweep. + </p> + <p> + While the final touch was being given to our task—i.e. the + hole-boring through the tail-fin—all hands lay around in various + picturesque attitudes, enjoying a refreshing smoke, care forgetting. While + thus pleasantly employed, sudden death, like a bolt from the blue, leapt + into our midst in a terrible form. The skipper was labouring hard at his + task of cutting the hole for the tow-line, when without warning the great + fin swung back as if suddenly released from tremendous tension. Happily + for us, the force of the blow was broken by its direction, as it struck + the water before reaching the boat's side, but the upper lobe hurled the + boat-spade from the captain's hands back into our midst, where it struck + the tub oarsman, splitting his head in two halves. The horror of the + tragedy, the enveloping darkness, the inexplicable revivifying of the + monster, which we could not have doubted to be dead, all combined to + stupefy and paralyze us for the time. Not a sound was heard in our boat, + though the yells of inquiry from our companion craft arose in increasing + volume. It was but a brief accession of energy, only lasting two or three + minutes, when the whale collapsed finally. Having recovered from our + surprise, we took no further chances with so dangerous an opponent, but + bored him as full of holes as a colander. + </p> + <p> + Mournful and miserable were the remaining hours of our vigil. We sat + around poor Miguel's corpse with unutterable feelings, recalling all the + tragical events of the voyage, until we reached the nadir of despondency. + With the rosy light of morning came more cheerful feelings, heightened by + the close proximity of the ship, from which it is probable we had never + been more than ten miles distant during the whole night. She had sighted + us with the first light, and made all sail down to us, all hands much + relieved at our safety. We were so sorely exhausted that we could hardly + climb on board; and how we hoisted the boats I hardly know. The whale was + secured by the efforts of the cripples we had left on board, while we + wayfarers, after a good meal, were allowed four hours' sound, sweet sleep. + </p> + <p> + When we returned to our duties, the first thing that awaited us was the + burial of the poor body. Very reverently were the last sad offices + performed, the flag hoisted half-mast, the bell solemnly tolled. Then we + gathered at the gangway while the eternal words of hope and consolation + were falteringly read, and with a sudden plunge the long, straight parcel + slid off the hatch into the vast tomb ever ready for the dead sailor. + </p> + <p> + Our dead out of sight, work claimed all our attention and energy, wiping + with its benificent influence all gloomy musings over the inevitable, and + replacing them with the pressing needs of life. The whale was not a large + one, but peculiar to look at. Like the specimen that fought so fiercely + with us in the Indian Ocean, its jaw was twisted round in a sort of hook, + the part that curved being so thickly covered with long barnacles as to + give the monster a most eerie look. One of the Portuguese expressed his + decided opinion that we had caught Davy Jones himself, and that, in + consequence, we should have no more accidents. It was impossible not to + sympathize with the conceit, for of all the queer-looking monstrosities + ever seen, this latest acquisition of ours would have taken high honours. + Such malformations of the lower mandible of the cachalot have often been + met with, and variously explained; but the most plausible opinion seems to + be that they have been acquired when the animal is very young and its + bones not yet indurated, since it is impossible to believe that an adult + could suffer such an accident without the broken jaw drooping instead of + being turned on one side. + </p> + <p> + The yield of oil was distressingly scanty, the whale being what is + technically known as a "dry skin." The blubber was so hard and tough that + we could hardly cut it up for boiling, and altogether it was one of the + most disappointing affairs we had yet dealt with. This poorness of blubber + was, to my mind, undoubtedly due to the difficulty the animal must have + had in obtaining food with his disabling defect of jaw. Whatever it was, + we were heartily glad to see the last of the beast, fervently hoping we + should never meet with another like him. + </p> + <p> + During the progress of these melancholy operations we had drifted a + considerable distance out of our course, no attention being paid, as + usual, to the direction of our drift until the greasy work was done. Once + the mess was cleared away, we hauled up again for our objective—Futuna—which, + as it was but a few hours' sail distant, we hoped to make the next day. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIII. AT FUTUNA, RECRUITING + </h2> + <p> + Sure enough, in accordance with our expectations, break of day revealed + the twin masses of Futuna ahead, some ten or fifteen miles away. With the + fine, steady breeze blowing, by breakfast-time we were off the entrance to + a pretty bight, where sail was shortened and the ship hove-to. Captain + Count did not intend to anchor, for reasons of his own, he being assured + that there was no need to do so. Nor was there. Although the distance from + the beach was considerable, we could see numbers of canoes putting off, + and soon they began to arrive. Now, some of the South Sea Islands are + famous for the elegance and seaworthiness of their canoes; nearly all of + them have a distinctly definite style of canoe-building; but here at + Futuna was a bewildering collection of almost every type of canoe in the + wide world. Dugouts, with outriggers on one side, on both sides, with none + at all; canoes built like boats, like prams, like irregular egg-boxes, + many looking like the first boyish attempt to knock something together + that would float; and—not to unduly prolong the list by attempted + classification of these unclassed craft—CORACLES. Yes; in that + lonely Pacific island, among that motley crowd of floating nondescripts, + were specimens of the ancient coracle of our own islands, constructed in + exactly the same way; that is, of wicker-work, covered with some + waterproof substance, whether skin or tarpaulin. But the ingenious Kanaka, + not content with his coracles, had gone one better, and copied them in + dugouts of solid timber. The resultant vessel was a sort of cross between + a butcher's tray and a wash-basin— + </p> + <p> + "A thing beyond Conception: such a wretched wherry, Perhaps ne'er ventured + on a pond, Or crossed a ferry." + </p> + <p> + The proud possessors of the coracles, both wicker and wood, must have been + poor indeed, for they did not even own a paddle, propelling their basins + through the water with their hands. It may be imagined what a pace they + put on! At a little distance they were very puzzling, looking more like a + water-beetle grown fat and lazy than aught else. + </p> + <p> + And so, in everything floatable, the whole male population of that part of + the coast came to visit us. We were speedily the centre of a great crowd + of canoes, some of which were continually capsizing and spilling their + occupants, who took no more notice of such incidents than one would of a + sneeze. Underneath a canoe, or on top, made but little difference to these + amphibious creatures. They brought nothing with them to trade; in fact, + few of their vessels were capable of carrying anything that could not swim + and take care of itself. As they came on board, each crossed himself more + or less devoutly, revealing the teaching of a Roman Catholic mission; and + as they called to one another, it was not hard to recognize, even in their + native garb, such names as Erreneo (Irenaeus), Al'seo (Aloysius), and + other favourite cognomens of saints. + </p> + <p> + A laughing chattering good-tempered crowd they were—just like a bevy + of children breaking up, and apparently destitute of the slightest sense + of responsibility. They spoke a totally different dialect, or maybe + language, to that of Vau Vau, for it was only an isolated word here and + there that Samuela could make out. But presently, going forward through + the crowd that thronged every part of the deck, I saw a man leaning + nonchalantly against the rail by the fore-rigging, who struck me at once + as being an American negro. The most casual observer would not have + mistaken him for a Kanaka of those latitudes, though he might have passed + as a Papuan. He was dressed in all the dignity of a woollen shirt, with a + piece of fine "tapa" for a waistcloth, feet and legs bare. Around his neck + was a necklace composed of a number of strings of blue and white beads + plaited up neatly, and carrying as a pendant a George shilling. Going up + to him, I looked at the coin, and said, "Belitani money?" "Oh yes," he + said, "that's a shilling of old Georgey Fourf," in perfectly good English, + but with an accent which quite confirmed my first idea. I at once invited + him aft to see the skipper, who was very anxious to find an interpreter + among the noisy crowd, besides being somewhat uneasy at having so large a + number on board. + </p> + <p> + To the captain's interrogations he replied that he was "Tui Tongoa"—that + is, King of Tonga, an island a little distance away—but that he was + at present under a cloud, owing to the success of a usurper, whom he would + reckon with by-and-by. + </p> + <p> + In the mean time he would have no objection to engaging himself with us as + a harpooner, and would get us as many men as we wanted, selecting from + among the crowd on board, fellows that would, he knew, be useful to us. + </p> + <p> + A bargain was soon struck, and Tui entered upon his self-imposed task. It + was immediately evident that he had a bigger contract on hand than he had + imagined. The natives, who had previously held somewhat aloof from him in + a kind of deferential respect, no sooner got wind of the fact that we + needed some of them than they were seized with a perfect frenzy of + excitement. There were, I should think, at least a hundred and fifty of + them on board at the time. Of this crowd, every member wanted to be + selected, pushing his candidature with voice and gesture as vigorously as + he knew how. The din was frightful. Tui, centre of the frantic mob, strove + vainly to make himself heard, to reduce the chaos to some sort of order, + but for a great while it was a hopeless attempt. At last, extricating + himself from his importunate friends, he gained the captain's side. + Panting, almost breathless, with sweat streaming off him, he gasped out, + "Oh, cap'n, dese yer darn niggers all gone mad! Dribe 'em oberbord; clar + 'em out, 'n I'll stan' by to grab some o' der likely ones as de res' + scatter." "But what about the wages?" said the skipper. "I'm not goin' ter + give 'em whatever they like to ask." "You leab it ter me, cap'n. I bet + you'll be satisfy. Anyhow, dishyers no time fer tradin'; de blame niggers + all off dere coco-nuts. Anybody fink you'se payin' off 'stead o' shippin', + an' deyse all afraid dey won't get 'nough." + </p> + <p> + Unpleasant as the job was to all of us, it had to be done; so we armed + ourselves with ropes'-ends, which we flourished threateningly, avoiding + where possible any actual blows. Many sprang overboard at once, finding + their way ashore or to their canoes as best they could. The majority, + however, had to swim, for we now noticed that, either in haste or from + carelessness, they had in most cases omitted to fasten their canoes + securely when coming alongside, so that many of them were now far out to + sea. The distance to shore being under three miles, that mattered little, + as far as their personal safety was concerned. + </p> + <p> + This summary treatment was eminently successful, quiet being rapidly + restored, so that Tui was able to select a dozen men, who he declared were + the best in the islands for our purpose. Although it seems somewhat + premature to say so, the general conduct of the successful candidates was + so good as to justify Tui fully in his eulogium. Perhaps his presence had + something to do with it? + </p> + <p> + We now had all that we came for, so that we were anxious to be off. But it + was a job to get rid of the visitors still remaining on board. They stowed + themselves away in all manner of corners, in some cases ludicrously + inadequate as hiding-places, and it was not until we were nearly five + miles from the land that the last of them plunged into the sea and struck + out for home. It was very queer. Ignorant of our destination, of what + would be required of them; leaving a land of ease and plenty for a + certainty of short commons and hard work, without preparation or + farewells, I do not think I ever heard of such a strange thing before. Had + their home been famine or plague-stricken, they could not have evinced + greater eagerness to leave it, or to face the great unknown. + </p> + <p> + As we drew farther off the island the wind freshened, until we had a good, + whole-sail breeze blustering behind us, the old ship making, with her + usual generous fuss, a tremendous rate of seven knots an hour. Our course + was shaped for the southward, towards the Bay of Islands, New Zealand. In + that favourite haunt of the South-seaman we were to wood and water, find + letters from home (those who had one), and prepare for the stormy south. + </p> + <p> + Obviously the first thing to be done for our new shipmates was to clothe + them. When they arrived on board, all, with the single exception of Tui, + were furnished only with a "maro" of "tapa," scanty in its proportions, + but still enough to wrap round their loins. But when they were accepted + for the vacant positions on board, they cast off even the slight apology + for clothing which they had worn, flinging the poor rags to their + retreating and rejected compatriots. Thus they were strutting about, in + native majesty unclad, which, of course, could not be endured among even + so unconventional a crowd as we were. So they were mustered aft, and, to + their extravagant delight, a complete rig-out was handed to each of them, + accompanied by graphic instructions how to dress themselves. Very queer + they looked when dressed, but queerer still not long afterwards, when some + of them, galled by the unaccustomed restraint of the trousers, were seen + prowling about with shirts tied round their waists by the sleeves, and + pants twisted turban-wise about their heads. Tui was called, and requested + to inform them that they must dress properly, after the fashion of the + white man, for that any impromptu improvements upon our method of + clothes-wearing could not be permitted. As they were gentle, tractable + fellows, they readily obeyed, and, though they must have suffered + considerably, there were no further grounds for complaint on the score of + dress. + </p> + <p> + It has been already noticed that they were Roman Catholics—all + except Tui, who from his superior mental elevation looked down upon their + beliefs with calm contempt, although really a greater heathen than any of + them had ever been. It was quite pathetic to see how earnestly they + endeavoured to maintain the form of worship to which they had been + accustomed, though how they managed without their priest, I could not find + out. Every evening they had prayers together, accompanied by many + crossings and genuflexions, and wound up by the singing of a hymn in such + queer Latin that it was almost unrecognizable. After much wondering I did + manage to make out "O Salutaris Hostia!" and "Tantum Ergo," but not until + their queer pronunciation of consonants had become familiar. Some of the + hymns were in their own tongue, only one of which I call now remember. + Phonetically, it ran thus— + </p> + <p> + "Mah-lee-ah, Kollyeea leekee; Obselloh mo mallamah. Alofah, keea ma toh; + Fah na oh, Mah lah ee ah"— + </p> + <p> + which I understood to be a native rendering of "O Stella Maris!" It was + sung to the well-known "Processional" in good time, and on that account, I + suppose, fixed itself in my memory. + </p> + <p> + Whenever any of them were ordered aloft, they never failed to cross + themselves before taking to the rigging, as if impressed with a sense of + their chance of not returning again in safety. To me was given the + congenial task of teaching them the duties required, and I am bound to + admit that they were willing, biddable, and cheerful learners. Another + amiable trait in their characters was especially noticeable: they always + held everything in common. No matter how small the portion received by any + one, it was scrupulously shared with the others who lacked, and this + subdivision was often carried to ludicrous lengths. + </p> + <p> + As there was so reason to hurry south, we, took a short cruise on the + Vasquez ground, more, I think, for the purpose of training our recruits + than anything else. As far as the results to our profit were concerned, we + might almost as well have gone straight on, for we only took one small + cow-cachalot. But the time spent thus cruising was by no means wasted. + Before we left finally for New Zealand, every one of those Kanakas was as + much at home in the whale-boats as he would have been in a canoe. Of + course they were greatly helped by their entire familiarity with the + water, which took from them all that dread of being drowned which hampers + the white "greenie" so sorely, besides which, the absolute confidence they + had in our prowess amongst the whales freed them from any fear on that + head. + </p> + <p> + Tui proved himself to be a smart harpooner, and was chosen for the + captain's boat. During our conversations, I was secretly amused to hear + him allude to himself as Sam, thinking how little it accorded with his + SOI-DISANT Kanaka origin. He often regaled me with accounts of his royal + struggles to maintain his rule, all of which narrations I received with a + goodly amount of reserve, though confirmed in some particulars by the + Kanakas, when I became able to converse with them. But I was hardly + prepared to find, as I did many years after, upon looking up some detail + in Findlay's "South Pacific Directory," this worthy alluded to as "the + celebrated Sam," in a brief account of Futuna. There he was said to be + king of the twin isles; so I suppose he found means to oust his rival, and + resume his sovereignty; though, how an American negro, as Sam undoubtedly + was, ever managed to gain such a position, remains to me an unfathomable + mystery. Certainly he did not reveal any such masterful attributes as one + would have expected in him, while he served as harpooner on board the + CACHALOT. + </p> + <p> + Gradually we crept south, until one morning we sighted the towering mass + of Sunday Island, the principal member of the small Kermadec group, which + lies nearly on the prime meridian of one hundred and eighty degrees, and + but a short distance north of the extremity of New Zealand. We had long + ago finished the last of our fresh provisions, fish had been very scarce, + so the captain seized the opportunity to give us a run ashore, and at the + same time instructed us to do such foraging as we could. It was rumoured + that there were many wild pigs to be found, and certainly abundance of + goats; but if both these sources of supply failed, we could fall back on + fish, of which we were almost sure to get a good haul. + </p> + <p> + The island is a stupendous mass of rock, rising sheer from the waves, in + some places to a height of fifteen hundred feet. These towering cliffs are + clothed with verdure, large trees clinging to their precipitous sides in a + marvellous way. Except at one small bight, known as Denham Bay, the place + is inaccessible, not only from the steepness of its cliffs, but because, + owing to its position, the gigantic swell of the South Pacific assails + those immense bastions with a force and volume that would destroy + instantly any vessel that unfortunately ventured too near. Denham Bay, + however, is in some measure protected by reefs of scattered boulders, + which break the greatest volume of the oncoming rollers. Within those + protecting barriers, with certain winds, it is possible to effect a + landing with caution; but even then no tyro in boat-handling should + venture to do so, as the experiment would almost certainly be fatal to + boat and crew. + </p> + <p> + We hove-to off the little bay, the waters of which looked placid enough + for a pleasure-party, lowered two boats well furnished with fishing gear + and such other equipment as we thought would be needed, and pulled away + for the landing-place. As we drew near the beach, we found that, in spite + of the hindrance to the ocean swell afforded by the reefs, it broke upon + the beach in rollers of immense size. In order to avoid any mishap, then, + we turned the boats' heads to seaward, and gently backed towards the + beach, until a larger breaker than usual came thundering in. As it rushed + towards us, we pulled lustily to meet it, the lovely craft rising to its + foaming crest like sea-birds. Then, as soon as we were on its outer slope, + we reversed the stroke again, coming in on its mighty shoulders at racing + speed. The instant our keels touched the beach we all leapt out, and + exerting every ounce of strength we possessed, ran the boats up high and + dry before the next roller had time to do more than hiss harmlessly around + our feet. It was a task of uncommon difficulty, for the shore was wholly + composed of loose lava and pumice-stone grit, into which we sank + ankle-deep at every step, besides being exceedingly steep. + </p> + <p> + We managed, however, to escape without any mishap, for the drenching was a + boon to our burnt-up skins. Off we started along the level land, which, as + far as I could judge, extended inland for perhaps a mile and a half by + about two miles wide. From this flat shelf the cliffs rose + perpendicularly, as they did from the sea. Up their sides were innumerable + goat-tracks, upon some of which we could descry a few of those agile + creatures climbing almost like flies. The plateau was thickly wooded, many + of the trees having been fruit-bearing once, but now, much to our + disappointment, barren from neglect. + </p> + <p> + A ruined house, surrounded by other vestiges of what had once been a + homestead, stood in the middle of this piece of land. Feeling curious to + know what the history of this isolated settlement might be, I asked the + mate if he knew anything of it. He told me that an American named + Halstead, with his family, lived here for years, visited only by an + occasional whaler, to whom they sold such produce as they might have and + be able to spare at the time. What their previous history had been, or why + they thus chose to cut themselves off from the world, he did not know; but + they seemed contented enough with their tiny kingdom, nor had any wish to + leave it. But it came to pass that one night they felt the sure and + firm-set earth trembling convulsively beneath their feet. Rushing out of + their house, they saw the heavens bespread with an awful pall of smoke, + the under-side of which was glowing with the reflected fires of some vast + furnace. Their terror was increased by a smart shower of falling ashes and + the reverberations of subterranean thunders. At first they thought of + flight in their boat, not reckoning the wide stretch of sea which rolled + between them and the nearest land, but the height and frequency of the + breakers then prevailing made that impossible. + </p> + <p> + Their situation was pitiable in the extreme. During the years of peace and + serenity they had spent here, no thought of the insecurity of their tenure + had troubled them. Though they had but been dwellers on the threshold of + the mountain, as it were, and any extension of their territory impossible + by reason of the insurmountable barrier around them, they had led an + untroubled life, all unknowing of the fearful forces beneath their feet. + But now they found the foundations of the rocks beneath breaking up; that + withering, incessant shower of ashes and scoriae destroyed all their + crops; the mild and delicate air changed into a heavy, sulphurous miasma; + while overhead the beneficent face of the bright-blue sky had become a + horrible canopy of deadly black, about which played lurid coruscations of + infernal fires. + </p> + <p> + What they endured throughout those days and nights of woe, could never be + told. They fled from the home they had reared with such abundance of + loving labour, taking refuge in a cave; for not even the knowledge that + the mountain itself seemed to be in the throes of dissolution could + entirely destroy their trust in those apparently eternal fastnesses. Here + their eldest son died, worried to death by incessant terror. At last a + passing whaler, remembering them and seeing the condition of things, had + the humanity and courage to stand in near enough to see their agonized + signals of distress. All of them, except the son buried but a day or two + before, were safely received and carried away, leaving the terrible + mountain to its solitude. + </p> + <p> + As I listened, I almost involuntarily cast my eyes upwards; nor was I at + all surprised to see far overhead a solitary patch of smoky cloud, which I + believe to have been a sure indication that the volcano was still liable + to commence operations at any time. + </p> + <p> + So far, we had not happened upon any pigs, or goats either, although we + saw many indications of the latter odoriferous animal. There were few + sea-birds to be seen, but in and out among the dense undergrowth ran many + short-legged brown birds, something like a partridge—the same, I + believe, as we afterwards became familiar with in Stewart's Island by the + name of "Maori hens." They were so tame and inquisitive that we had no + difficulty in securing a few by the simple process of knocking them over + with sticks. From the main branch of a large tree hung a big honey-comb, + out of which the honey was draining upon the earth. Around it buzzed a + busy concourse of bees, who appeared to us so formidable that we decided + to leave them to the enjoyment of their sweet store, in case we should + invite an attack. + </p> + <p> + So far, our rambling had revealed nothing of any service to us; but just + then, struck by the appearance of a plant which was growing profusely in a + glade we were passing over, I made bold to taste one of the leaves. What + the botanical name of the vegetable is, I do not know; but, under the + designation of "Maori cabbage," it is well known in New Zealand. It looks + like a lettuce, running to seed; but it tastes exactly like young + turnip-tops, and is a splendid anti-scorbutic. What its discovery meant to + us, I can hardly convey to any one who does not know what an insatiable + craving for potatoes and green vegetables possesses seamen when they have + for long been deprived of these humble but necessary articles of food. + Under the circumstances, no "find" could have given us greater pleasure—that + is, in the food line—than this did. + </p> + <p> + Taking it all round, however, the place as a foraging ground was not a + success. We chased a goat of very large size, and beard voluminous as a + Rabbi's, into a cave, which may have been the one the Halsteads took + shelter in, for we saw no other. One of the Kanakas volunteered to go in + after him with a line, and did so. The resultant encounter was the best + bit of fun we had had for many a day. After a period of darksome scuffling + within, the entangled pair emerged, fiercely wrestling, Billy being to all + appearance much the fresher of the two. Fair play seemed to demand that we + should let them fight it out; but, sad to say, the other Kanakas could not + see things in that light, and Billy was soon despatched. Rather needless + killing, too; for no one, except at starvation-point, could have eaten the + poor remains of leathery flesh that still decorated that weather-beaten + frame. + </p> + <p> + But this sort of thing was tiring and unprofitable. The interest of the + place soon fizzled out, when it was found there was so little worth taking + away; so, as the day was getting on, it was decided to launch off and + start fishing. In a few minutes we were afloat again, and anchored, in + about four fathoms, in as favourable a spot for our sport as ever I saw. + Fish swarmed about us of many sorts, but principally of the "kauwhai," a + kind of mullet very plentiful about Auckland, and averaging five or six + pounds. Much to my annoyance, we had not been able to get any bait, except + a bit of raw salt-pork, which hardly any fish but the shark tribe will + look at. Had I known or thought of it, a bit of goat would have been far + more attractive. + </p> + <p> + However, as there was no help for it, we baited up and started. "Nary + nibble ermong 'em!" growled Sam, as we sat impatiently waiting for a bite. + When we hauled up to see what was wrong, fish followed the hook up in + hundreds, letting us know plainly as possible that they only wanted + something tasty. It was outrageous, exasperating beyond measure! At last + Samuela grew so tired of it that he seized his harpoon, and hurled it into + the middle of a company of kauwhai that were calmly nosing around the + bows. By the merest chance he managed to impale one of them upon the broad + point. It was hardly in the boat before I had seized it, scaled it, and + cut it into neat little blocks. All hands rebaited with it, and flung out + again. The change was astounding. Up they came, two at a time, dozens and + dozens of them kauwhai, cavalle, yellow-tail, schnapper—lovely fish + of delicious flavour and goodly size. Then one of us got a fish which made + him yell, "Shark! shark!" with all his might. He had a small line of + American cotton, staunch as copper wire, but dreadfully cutting to the + hands. When he took a turn round the logger-head, the friction of the + running line cut right into the white oak, but the wonderful cord and hook + still held their own. At last the monster yielded, coming in at first inch + by inch, then more rapidly, till raised in triumph above the gunwhale—a + yellow-tail six feet long. I have caught this splendid fish (ELAGATIS + BIPINNULATIS) many times before and since then, but never did I see such a + grand specimen as this one—no, not by thirty or forty pounds. Then I + got a giant cavalle. His broad, shield-like body blazed hither and thither + as I struggled to ship him, but it was long ere he gave in to superior + strength and excellence of line and hook. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, the others had been steadily increasing our cargo, until, + feeling that we had quite as much fish as would suffice us, besides being + really a good load, I suggested a move towards the ship. We were laying + within about half a mile of the shore, where the extremity of the level + land reached the cliffs. Up one of the well-worn tracks a fine, fat goat + was slowly creeping, stopping every now and then to browse upon the short + herbage that clung to the crevices of the rock. Without saying a word, + Polly the Kanaka slipped over the side, and struck out with swift overhead + strokes for the foot of the cliff. As soon as I saw what, he was after, I + shouted loudly for him to return, but he either could not or would not + hear me. The fellow's seal-like ability as a swimmer was, of course, well + known to me, but I must confess I trembled for his life in such a + weltering whirl of rock-torn sea as boiled among the crags at the base of + that precipice. He, however, evidently knew what he was going to do, and, + though taking risks which would have certainly been fatal to an ordinary + swimmer, was quite unafraid of the result. + </p> + <p> + We all watched him breathlessly as he apparently headed straight for the + biggest outlying rock—a square, black boulder about the size of an + ordinary railway car. He came up to it on the summit of a foaming wave; + but just as I looked for him to be dashed to pieces against its adamantine + sides, he threw his legs into the air and disappeared. A stealthy, + satisfied smile glowed upon Samuela's rugged visage, and, as he caught my + eye, he said jauntily, "Polly savee too much. Lookee him come on top one + time!" I looked, and sure enough there was the daring villain crawling up + among the kelp far out of reach of the hungry rollers. It was a marvellous + exhibition of coolness and skill. + </p> + <p> + Without waiting an instant, he began to stalk the goat, dodging amongst + the bushes with feet that clung to the steep sides of the cliff as well as + the animal's. Before he could reach her, she had winded him, and was off + up the track. He followed, without further attempt to hide himself; but, + despite his vigour and ability, would, I fancy, have stood a microscopic + chance of catching her had she not been heavy with kid. As it was, he had + all his work cut out for him. When he did catch her, she made so fierce it + struggle for life and liberty that, in the endeavour to hold her, he + missed his insecure foothold, and the pair came tumbling over and over + down the cliff in a miniature avalanche of stones and dust. At the bottom + they both lay quiet for a time; while I anxiously waited, fearing the rash + fool was seriously injured; but in a minute or two he was on his feet + again. + </p> + <p> + Lashing the goat to his body, and ignoring her struggles, he crawled out + as far among the rocks as he could; then, at the approach of a big + breaker, he dived to meet it, coming up outside its threatening top like a + life-buoy. I pulled in, as near as I could venture, to pick him up, and in + a few minutes had him safely on board again, but suffering fearfully. In + his roll down the cliff he had been without his trousers, which would have + been some protection to him. Consequently, his thighs were deeply cut and + torn in many places, while the brine entering so many wounds, though a + grand styptic, must have tortured him unspeakably. At any rate, though he + was a regular stoic to bear pain, he fainted while I was "dressing him + down" in the most vigorous language I could command for his foolhardy + trick. Then we all realized what he must be going through, and felt that + he was getting all the punishment he deserved, and more. The goat, poor + thing! seemed none the worse for her rough handling. + </p> + <p> + The mate gave the signal to get back on board just as Polly revived, so + there were no inconvenient questions asked, and we returned alongside in + triumph, with such a cargo of fish as would have given us a good month's + pay all round could we have landed them at Billingsgate. Although the mate + had not succeeded as well as we, the catch of the two boats aggregated + half a ton, not a fish among the lot less than five pounds weight, and one + of a hundred and twenty—the yellow-tail aforesaid. As soon as we + reached the ship, the boats were run up, sails filled, and away we + lumbered again towards New Zealand. + </p> + <p> + As the great mass of that solitary mountain faded away in the gathering + shades of evening, it was impossible to help remembering the sufferings of + that afflicted family, confined to those trembling, sulphurous, + ash-bestrewn rocks, amid gloom by day, and unnatural glare by night, for + all that weary while. And while I admit that there is to some people a + charm in being alone with nature, it is altogether another thing when your + solitude becomes compulsory, your paradise a prison from which you cannot + break away. There are many such nooks scattered about the ocean, where men + have hidden themselves away from the busy world, and been forgotten by it; + but few of them, I fancy, offer such potentialities of terror as Sunday + Island. + </p> + <p> + We had hardly lost sight of the land, when Polly's capture gave birth to a + kid. This event was the most interesting thing that had happened on board + for a great while, and the funny little visitor would have run great risk + of being completely spoiled had he lived. But, to our universal sorrow, + the mother's milk failed—from want of green food, I suppose—and + we were obliged to kill the poor little chap to save him from being + starved to death. He made a savoury mess for some whose appetite for + flesh-meat was stronger than any sentimental considerations. + </p> + <p> + To an ordinary trader, the distance between the Kermadecs and the Bay of + Islands, New Zealand, roughly represents a couple of days' sail; but to + us, who were apparently incapable of hurry under any circumstances, it + meant a good week's bludgeoning the protesting waves before the grim + outliers of the Three Kings came into view. Even then, although the + distance was a mere bagatelle, it was another two days before we arrived + off that magnificent harbour where reposes the oldest township in New + Zealand—Russell, where rest the mortal remains of the first really + Pakeha Maori, but which, for some unaccountable reason, is still left + undeveloped and neglected, visited only by the wandering whalers (in + ever-decreasing numbers) and an occasional trim, business-like, and + gentlemanly man-o'-war, that, like a Guardsman strolling the West End in + mufti, stalks the sea with never an item of her smart rig deviating by a + shade from its proper set or sheer. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXIV. THE BAY OF ISLANDS AND NEW ZEALAND COAST + </h2> + <p> + In a comparative new colony like New Zealand, where the marvellous growth + of the young state can be traced within living memory, from the privations + of the pioneer to the fully developed city with all the machinery of our + latest luxurious civilization, it is exceedingly interesting to note how + the principal towns have sprung up arbitrarily, and without any heed to + the intentions of the ruling powers. The old-fashioned township of + Kororarika, or Port Russell, is a case very much in point. As we sailed in + between the many islets from which the magnificent bay takes its name, for + all appearances to the contrary, we might have been the first, + discoverers. Not a house, not a sail, not a boat, broke the loneliness and + primeval look of the placid waters and the adjacent shores. Not until we + drew near the anchorage, and saw upon opening up the little town the + straight-standing masts of three whale-ships, did anything appear to + dispel the intense air of solitude overhanging the whole. As we drew + nearer, and rounded-to for mooring, I looked expectantly for some sign of + enterprise on the part of the inhabitants—some tradesman's boat + soliciting orders; some of the population on the beach (there was no sign + of a pier), watching the visitor come to an anchor. Not a bit of it. The + whole place seemed a maritime sleepy hollow, the dwellers in which had + lost all interest in life, and had become far less energetic than the + much-maligned Kanakas in their dreamy isles of summer. + </p> + <p> + Yet this was once intended for the capital of New Zealand. When the large + and splendidly-built city of Dunedin, Otago, was a barren bush, haunted + only by the "morepork" and the apteryx, Russell was humming with vitality, + her harbour busy with fleets of ships, principally whalers, who found it + the most convenient calling-place in the southern temperate zone. Terrible + scenes were enacted about its "blackguard beach," orgies of wild + debauchery and bloodshed indulged in by the half-savage and utterly + lawless crews of the whaleships. But it never attained to any real + importance. As a port of call for whalers, it enjoyed a certain kind of + prosperity; but when the South Sea fishery dwindled, Russell shrank in + immediate sympathy. It never had any vitality of its own, no manufactures + or products, unless the wretched coalmines adjacent, with their dirty + output, which is scoffed at by the grimiest tug afloat, could be dignified + by the name. + </p> + <p> + Remembering, as I did, the beauty, the energy, and prosperity of the great + New Zealand ports, some of them with not a tithe of the natural advantages + of Russell, I felt amazed, almost indignant, at its dead-and-alive + appearance. + </p> + <p> + Our anchor was no sooner down than the captains of the JAMES ARNOLD, + MATILDA SAYER, and CORAL lowered and came on board, eager to hear or to + tell such news as was going. As we had now grown to expect, all work was + over immediately the sails were fast and decks cleared up, so that we were + free to entertain our visitors. And a high old time we had of it that + afternoon! What with songs, dances, and yarns, the hours flew by with + lightning speed. Our Kanakas, too, were overjoyed to find compatriots + among the visitors, and settled down to a steady stream of talk which + lasted, without intermission, the whole night through. It was a wonderful + exhibition of tongue-wagging, though what it was all about puzzled me + greatly. + </p> + <p> + Life on board those three ships, though described in glowing terms by the + visitors, was evidently not to be mentioned for comfort in the same breath + as ours. But we found that our late captain's fame as a "hard citizen" was + well known to all; so that it is only ordinary justice to suppose that + such a life as he led us was exceptional for even a Yankee spouter. Our + friends gave us a blood-curdling account of the Solander whaling ground, + which we were about to visit, the JAMES ARNOLD and CORAL having spent a + season there that cruise. I did not, however, pay much attention to their + yarns, feeling sure that, even if they were fact, it would not help to + brood over coming hardships, and inclined to give liberal discount to most + of their statements. The incessant chatter, got wearisome at last, and I, + for one, was not sorry when, at two in the morning, our visitors departed + to their several ships, and left us to get what sleep still remained left + to us. + </p> + <p> + A pleasant expedition was planned for the next day. Our visit being + principally for wooding and watering, both of which it was necessary for + us to do ourselves, Captain Count showed his usual promptitude in + commencing at once. Permission having been obtained and, I suppose, paid + for, we set out with two boats and a plentiful supply of axes for a + well-wooded promontory to prepare a store of wood. Wood chopping is not + usually looked upon as a sailor's pastime; but we had had considerable + experience during the voyage, as a result of which most of us could swing + an axe in fine style. But the Kanakas beat us all hollow. Delighted to get + ashore again, pleased with the fine axes as children with new toys, they + laid about them in grand style, the young trees falling right and left in + scores. Anybody would have judged that we were working piece-work, at so + much a cord, the pile grew so fast. There was such a quantity collected + that, instead of lightering it off in the boats, which is very rough and + dirty usage for them, I constructed a sort of raft with four large spars + arranged in the form of an oblong, placing an immense quantity of the + smaller stuff in between. Upright sticks were rudely lashed here and + there, to keep the pile from bobbing out underneath, and thus loaded we + proceeded slowly to the ship with sufficient wood for our wants brought in + one journey. It was immediately hoisted on board, sawn into convenient + lengths, and stowed away, the whole operation being completed, of getting + between eight and ten tons of firewood cut, ferried, and stowed, in less + than eight hours. + </p> + <p> + Next day was devoted to watering; but as I have elsewhere described that + necessary if prosaic occupation, I will not repeat the story. Sufficient + to say that the job was successfully "did" in the course of the day. + </p> + <p> + All the work being accomplished for which we had come, it only remained to + give the crew "liberty." So the port watch, in their best (?) rig, were + mustered aft; each man received ten shillings, and away they went in glee + for the first genuine day's liberty since leaving Honolulu. For although + they had been much ashore in Vau Vau, that was not looked upon in the same + light as a day's freedom in a town where liquor might be procured, and the + questionable privilege of getting drunk taken advantage of. Envious eyes + watched their progress from the other ships, but, much to my secret + satisfaction, none of their crews were allowed ashore at the same time. + There were quite sufficient possibilities of a row among our own crowd, + without farther complications such as would almost certainly have occurred + had the strangers been let loose at the same time. Unfortunately, to the + ordinary sailor-man, the place presented no other forms of amusement + besides drinking, and I was grieved to see almost the whole crowd, + including the Kanakas, emerge from the grog-shop plentifully supplied with + bottles, and, seating themselves on the beach, commence their carouse. The + natives evinced the greatest eagerness to get drunk, swallowing down the + horrible "square gin" as if it were water. They passed with the utmost + rapidity through all the stages of drunkenness. Before they had been + ashore an hour, most of them were lying like logs, in the full blaze of + the sun, on the beach. Seeing this, the captain suggested the advisability + of bringing them on board at once, as they were only exposed to robbery by + the few prowling Maories that loafed about the beach—a curious + contrast to the stately fellows met with in other parts of New Zealand. + </p> + <p> + So we set to work, and brought them on board again, handing them over to + their compatriots by way of warning against similar excesses, although, it + must be confessed, that they were hardly to blame, with the example of + their more civilized shipmates before their eyes. Sam was energetic in his + condemnation of both the Kanakas for getting drunk, and the captain for + giving them any money wherewith to do so. The remainder of the watch + fortunately concluded their carouse without any serious disorder. A few + bruises bestowed upon one another, more in clumsy horseplay than real + fighting summed up the casualties among them. By ten o'clock that evening + we had them all safely on board again, ready for sore heads and repentance + in the morning. + </p> + <p> + During the day I had evolved a scheme, which I had great hopes of carrying + out when our watch should be let loose on the morrow. When morning came, + and the liberty men received their money, I called them together and + unfolded my plan. Briefly, I proposed a sort of picnic at a beautiful spot + discovered during our wooding expedition. I was surprised and very pleased + at the eager way in which all, with the sole exceptions of Tui and his + fellow-harpooner, a Portuguese, fell in with my suggestions. Without any + solicitation on my part, my Kanakas brought me their money, begging me to + expend it for them, as they did not know how, and did not want to buy gin. + </p> + <p> + Under such favourable auspices as these, we landed shortly after eight + a.m., making a bee-line for the only provision shop the place boasted. + Here we laid in a stock of such savouries as we had long been strangers + to, both eatables and drinkables, although I vetoed fire-water altogether. + Beer in bottle was substituted, at my suggestion, as being, if we must + have drinks of that nature, much the least harmful to men in a hot + country, besides, in the quantity that we were able to take, + non-intoxicant. We also took tea, sugar, milk, and a kettle, Thus + furnished, we struck for the country, merry as a group of schoolboys, + making the quiet air ring again with song, shout, and laughter—all + of which may seem puerile and trivial in the extreme; but having seen + liberty men ashore in nearly every big port in the world, watched the + helpless, dazed look with which they wander about, swinging hands, bent + shoulders, and purposeless rolling gait, I have often fervently wished + that some one would take a party of them for a ramble with a definite + purpose, helping them to a little enjoyment, instead of them falling, from + sheer lack of knowing what else to do, into some dirty, darksome gin-mill, + to be besotted, befooled, and debased. + </p> + <p> + I do earnestly wish that some of the good folk in London and Liverpool, + who are wringing their hands for want of something to do among their + fellow-men, would pay a visit to sailor-town for the purpose of getting up + a personally-conducted party of sailors to see the sights worth seeing. It + is a cheap form of pleasure, even if they paid all expenses, though that + would not be likely. They would have an uphill job at first, for the + sailor has been so long accustomed to being preyed upon by the class he + knows, and neglected by everybody else except the few good people who want + to preach to him, that he would probably, in a sheepish shame-faced sort + of way, refuse to have any "truck" with you, as he calls it. If the + "sailors' home" people were worth their salt, they would organize + expeditions by carriage to such beautiful places as—in London, for + instance—Hampton Court, Zoological Gardens, Crystal Palace, Epping + Forest, and the like, with competent guides and good catering + arrangements. But no; the sailor is allowed to step outside the door of + the "home" into the grimy, dismal streets with nothing open to him but the + dance-house and brothel on one side, and the mission hall or reading-room + on the other. God forbid that I should even appear to sneer at missions to + seamen; nothing is farther from my intention; but I do feel that sailors + need a little healthy human interest to be taken in providing some + pleasure for them, and that there are unorthodox ways of "missioning" + which are well worth a trial. + </p> + <p> + I once took a party (while I was an A.B.) from Wells-street Home to the + South Kensington Museum. There were six of them—a Frenchman, a Dane, + a Russian Finn, two Englishmen, and an Irishman. Though continually + sailing from London for years, this was the first occasion they had ever + been west of Aldgate. The only mistake I made was in going too deep at one + step. The journey from Shadwell to South Kensington, under the guidance of + one familiar, through the hardest personal experiences, with every corner + of the vast network, was quite enough for one day. So that by the time we + entered the Museum they were surfeited temporarily with sight-seeing, and + not able to take in the wonders of the mighty place. Seeing this, I did + not persist, but, after some rest and refreshment, led them across the + road among the naval models. Ah! it was a rare treat to see them there. + For if there is one thing more than another which interests a sailor, it + is a well-made model of a ship. Sailors are model-makers almost by nature, + turning out with the most meagre outfit of tools some wonderfully-finished + replicas of the vessels is which they have sailed. And the collection of + naval models at South Kensington is, I suppose, unsurpassed in the world + for the number and finish of the miniature vessels there shown. + </p> + <p> + Our day was a great success, never to be forgotten by those poor fellows, + whose only recreation previously had been to stroll listlessly up and down + the gloomy, stone-flagged hall of the great barracks until sheer weariness + drove them out into the turbid current of the "Highway," there to seek + speedily some of the dirty haunts where the "runner" and the prostitute: + awaited them. + </p> + <p> + But I have wandered far from the Bay of Islands while thus chattering of + the difficulties that beset the path of rational enjoyment for the sailor + ashore. Returning to that happy day, I remember vividly how, just after we + got clear of the town, we were turning down a lane between hedgerows + wonderfully like one of our own country roads, when something—I + could not tell what—gripped my heart and sent a lump into my throat. + Tears sprang unbidden to my eyes, and I trembled from head to foot with + emotion. Whatever could it be? Bewildered for the moment, I looked around, + and saw a hedge laden with white hawthorn blossom, the sweet English + "may." Every Londoner knows how strongly that beautiful scent appeals to + him, even when wafted from draggled branches borne slumwards by tramping + urchins who have been far afield despoiling the trees of their lovely + blossoms, careless of the damage they have been doing. But to me, who had + not seen a bit for years, the flood of feeling undammed by that odorous + breath, was overwhelming. I could hardly tear myself away from the spot, + and, when at last I did, found myself continually turning to try and catch + another whiff of one of the most beautiful scents in the world. + </p> + <p> + Presently we came to a cottage flooded from ground to roof-ridge with + blossoms of scarlet geranium. There must have been thousands of them, all + borne by one huge stem which was rooted by the door of the house. A little + in front of it grew a fuchsia, twelve or fourteen feet high, with + wide-spreading branches, likewise loaded with handsome blooms; while the + ground beneath was carpeted with the flowers shaken from their places by + the rude wind. + </p> + <p> + So, through scenes of loveliness that appealed even to the dusky Kanakas, + we trudged gaily along, arriving pretty well fagged at our destination—a + great glade of tenderest green, surrounded by magnificent trees on three + sides; the fourth opening on to a dazzling white beach sloping gently down + to the sea. Looking seaward, amidst the dancing, sparkling wavelets, rose + numerous tree-clothed islets, making a perfectly beautiful seascape. On + either side of the stretch of beach fantastic masses of rock lay about, as + if scattered by some tremendous explosion. Where the sea reached them, + they were covered with untold myriads of oysters, ready to be eaten and of + delicious flavour. + </p> + <p> + What need to say more? With oyster-feeding, fishing, bathing, + tree-climbing, tea-making, song-singing the hours fled with pitiless + haste, so that, before we had half emptied the brimming cup of joys + proffered us, the slanting rays of the setting sun warned us to return + lest we should get "hushed" in the dark. We came on board rejoicing, laden + with spoils of flowers and fish, with two-thirds of our money still in our + pockets, and full of happy memories of one of the most delightful days in + our whole lives. + </p> + <p> + A long night's sound sleep was rudely broken into in the morning by the + cry of "Man the windlass." Having got all we wanted, we were bound away to + finish, if luck were with us, the lading of our good ship from the teeming + waters of the Solander grounds. I know the skipper's hopes were high, for + he never tired of telling how, when in command of a new ship, he once + fished the whole of his cargo—six thousand barrels of sperm oil—from + the neighbourhood to which we were now bound. He always admitted, though, + that the weather he experienced was unprecedented. Still, nothing could + shake his belief in the wonderful numbers of sperm whales to be found on + the south coasts of New Zealand, which faith was well warranted, since he + had there won from the waves, not only the value of his new ship, but a + handsome profit in addition, all in one season. + </p> + <p> + Hearing this kind of thing every day made me feel quite hungry to reach + the battle-field; but, for reasons which doubtless were excellent, + although I cannot pretend to explain them, we started north about, which + not only added nearly one hundred miles to the distance we had to go, but + involved us in a gale which effectually stopped our progress for a week. + It was our first taste of the gentle zephyrs which waft their sweetness + over New Zealand, after sweeping over the vast, bleak, iceberg-studded + expanse of the Antarctic Ocean. Our poor Kanakas were terribly frightened, + for the weather of their experience, except on the rare occasions when + they are visited by the devastating hurricane, is always fine, steady, and + warm. For the first time in their lives they saw hail, and their wonder + was too great for words. But the cold was very trying, not only to them, + but to us, who had been so long in the tropics that our blood was almost + turned to water. The change was nearly as abrupt as that so often + experienced by our seamen, who at the rate of sixteen knots an hour plunge + from a temperature of eighty degrees to one of thirty degrees in about + three days. + </p> + <p> + We, with the ready adaptability of seamen, soon got accustomed to the + bleak, bitter weather, but the Kanakas wilted like hothouse plants under + its influence. They were well fed and well clothed, yet they seemed to + shrivel up, looking thinner every day, several of them getting deep coughs + strongly suggestive of a cemetery. It was no easy task to get them to + work, or even move, never a one of them lumbering aloft but I expected him + to come down by the run. This was by no means cheering, when it was + remembered what kind of a campaign lay before us. Captain Count seemed to + be quite easy in his mind, however, and as we had implicit confidence in + his wisdom and judgment, we were somewhat reassured. + </p> + <p> + The gale at last blew itself out, the wind veering to the northward again, + with beautiful, spring-like weather, just cool enough to be pleasant, and, + withal, favourable for getting to our destination. We soon made the land + again about New Plymouth, jogging along near enough to the coast to admire + the splendid rugged scenery of the Britain of the south. All hands were + kept busily employed preparing for stormy weather—reeving new + running-gear, bending the strongest suit of sails, and looking well to all + the whaling gear. + </p> + <p> + In this active exercise of real sailor-work, the time, though long for an + ordinary passage, passed quickly and pleasantly away, so that when we + hauled round the massive promontory guarding the western entrance to + Foveaux Straits, we were almost surprised to find ourselves there so soon. + </p> + <p> + This, then, was the famous and dreaded Solander whaling ground. Almost in + the centre of the wide stretch of sea between Preservation Inlet, on the + Middle Island, and the western end of the South, or Stewart's Island, rose + a majestic mass of wave-beaten rock some two thousand feet high, like a + grim sentinel guarding the Straits. The extent of the fishing grounds was + not more than a hundred and fifty square miles, and it was rarely that the + vessels cruised over the whole of it. The most likely area for finding + whales was said to be well within sight of the Solander Rock itself, but + keeping on the western side of it. + </p> + <p> + It was a lovely day when we first entered upon our cruising ground, a + gentle north-east wind blowing, the sky a deep, cloudless blue, so that + the rugged outline of Stewart's Island was distinctly seen at its extreme + distance from us. To the eastward the Straits narrowed rapidly, the + passage at the other end being scarcely five miles wide between the + well-known harbour of the Bluff, the port of Invercargill, and a long + rocky island which almost blocked the strait. This passage, though cutting + off a big corner, not only shortening the distance from the westward + considerably, but oftentimes saving outward bounders a great deal of heavy + weather off the Snares to the south of Stewart's Island, is rarely used by + sailing-ships, except coasters; but steamers regularly avail themselves of + it, being independent of its conflicting currents and baffling winds. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXV. ON THE SOLANDER GROUNDS + </h2> + <p> + Our opening day was an auspicious one. We had not been within the cruising + radius more than four hours before the long-silent; cry of "Blo-o-o-w!" + resounded from the mainmast head. It was a lone whale, apparently of large + size, though spouting almost as feebly as a calf. But that, I was told by + the skipper, was nothing to go by down here. He believed right firmly that + there were no small whales to be found in these waters at all. He averred + that in all his experience he had never seen a cow-cachalot anywhere + around Stewart's Island, although, as usual, he did no theorizing as to + the reason why. + </p> + <p> + Eagerly we took to the boats and made for our first fish, setting + alongside of him in less than half an hour from our first glimpse of his + bushy breath. As the irons sank into his blubber, he raised himself a + little, and exposed a back like a big ship bottom up. Verily, the + skipper's words were justified, for we had seen nothing bigger of the + whale-kind that voyage. His manner puzzled us not a little. He had not a + kick in him. Complacently, as though only anxious to oblige, he laid + quietly while we cleared for action, nor did he show any signs of + resentment or pain while he was being lanced with all the vigour we + possessed. He just took all our assaults with perfect quietude and + exemplary patience, so that we could hardly help regarding him with great + suspicion, suspecting some deep scheme of deviltry hidden by this + abnormally sheep-like demeanour. But nothing happened. In the same + peaceful way he died, without the slightest struggle sufficient to raise + even an eddy on the almost smooth sea. + </p> + <p> + Leaving the mate by the carcass, we returned on board, the skipper hailing + us immediately on our arrival to know what was the matter with him. We, of + course, did not know, neither did the question trouble us. All we were + concerned about was the magnanimous way in which he, so to speak, made us + a present of himself, giving us no more trouble to secure his treasure + than as if he had been a lifeless thing. We soon had him alongside, + finding, upon ranging him by the ship, that he was over seventy feet long, + with a breadth of bulk quite in proportion to such a vast length. + </p> + <p> + Cutting-in commenced at once, for fine weather there was by no means to be + wasted, being of rare occurrence and liable at the shortest notice to be + succeeded by a howling gale. Our latest acquisition, however, was of such + gigantic proportions that the decapitation alone bade fair to take us all + night. A nasty cross swell began to get up, too—a combination of + north-westerly and south-westerly which, meeting at an angle where the + Straits began, raised a curious "jobble," making the vessel behave in a + drunken, uncertain manner. Sailors do not mind a ship rolling or pitching, + any more than a rider minds the motion of his horse; but when she does + both at once, with no approach to regularity in her movements, it makes + them feel angry with her. What, then, must our feelings have been under + such trying conditions, with that mountain of matter alongside to which so + much sheer hard labour had to be done, while the sky was getting greasy + and the wind beginning to whine in that doleful key which is the certain + prelude to a gale? + </p> + <p> + Everybody worked like Chinamen on a contract, as if there was no such + feeling as fatigue. Little was said, but we all realized that unless this + job was got over before what was brooding burst upon us, we should + certainly lose some portion of our hard-won whale. Still, our utmost + possible was all we could do; and when at daylight the head was hauled + alongside for cutting up, the imminent possibility of losing it, though + grievous to think of, worried nobody, for all had done their best. The + gale had commenced in business-like fashion, but the sea was horrible. It + was almost impossible to keep one's footing on the stage. At times the + whole mass of the head would be sucked down by the lee roll of the ship, + and go right under her keel, the fluke-chain which held it grinding and + straining as if it would tear the bows out of her. Then when she rolled + back again the head would rebound to the surface right away from the ship, + where we could not reach it to cut. Once or twice it bounced up beneath + our feet, striking the stage and lifting it with its living load several + inches, letting it fall again with a jerk that made us all cling for dear + life to our precarious perch. + </p> + <p> + In spite of these capers, we managed to get the junk off the head. It was + a tremendous lift for us; I hardly think we had ever raised such a weight + before. The skipper himself estimated it at fifteen tons, which was no + small load for the tackles in fine weather, but with the ship tumbling + about in her present fashion, it threatened to rip the mainmast out by the + roots—not, of course, the dead-weight strain; but when it was nearly + aboard, her sudden lee wallow sometimes floated the whole mass, which the + next instant, on the return roll, would be torn out of water, with all the + force of the ship suddenly rolling the other way. Every splinter, every + rope-yarn of her groaned again under this savage treatment; but so + splendid was her construction that she never made a drop of water more + than just sufficient to sweeten the limbers. + </p> + <p> + It was with great and genuine satisfaction that we saw it at last safely + lowered on deck and secured. But when we turned our attention to the case, + which, still attached to the skull, battered alongside, any chance of + saving it was at once seen to be hopeless. Indeed, as the old man said, it + was time for us to "up stick" and run for shelter. We had been too fully + occupied to notice the gradual increase of the wind; but when we did, + there was no gainsaying the fact that it was blowing a very stiff breeze + (ANGLICE, a violent gale). Fortunately for us, it was from the westward, + fair for the harbour of Port William, on the Stewart's Island side of the + Straits, so that we were free from the apprehension of being blown out to + sea or on a jagged lee shore. + </p> + <p> + While we were thus thinking during a brief pause to take breath, the old + packet herself solved our last difficulty in emphatic fashion. She gave a + tremendous lee lurch, which would inevitably have destroyed the cutting + stage if we had not hoisted it, driving right over the head, which + actually rose to the surface to windward, having passed under her bottom. + The weather roll immediately following was swift and sudden. From the + nature of things, it was evident that something must give way this time. + It did. For the first and only time in my experience, the fluke-chain was + actually torn through the piece to which it was fast—two feet of + solid gristle ripped asunder. Away went the head with its L150 to L200 + worth of pure spermaceti, disappearing from view almost immediately. + </p> + <p> + It had no sooner gone than more sail was set, the yards were squared, and + the vessel kept away up the Straits for shelter. It was a big improvement, + for she certainly had begun to make dirty weather of it, and no wonder. + Now, however, running almost dead before the gale, getting into smoother + water at every fathom, she was steady as a rock, allowing us to pursue our + greasy avocation in comparative comfort. The gale was still increasing, + although now blowing with great fury; but, to our satisfaction, it was dry + and not too cold. Running before it, too, lessened our appreciation of its + force; besides which, we were exceedingly busy clearing away the enormous + mass of the junk, which, draining continually, kept the decks running with + oil. + </p> + <p> + We started to run up the Straits at about ten a.m. At two p.m. we suddenly + looked up from our toil, our attention called by a sudden lull in the + wind. We had rounded Saddle Point, a prominent headland, which shut off + from us temporarily the violence of the gale. Two hours later we found + ourselves hauling up into the pretty little harbour of Port William, + where, without taking more than a couple of hands off the work, the vessel + was rounded-to and anchored with quite as little fuss as bringing a boat + alongside a ship. It was the perfection of seamanship. + </p> + <p> + Once inside the bay, a vessel was sheltered from all winds, the land being + high and the entrance intricate. The water was smooth as a mill-pond, + though the leaden masses of cloud flying overhead and the muffled roar of + the gale told eloquently of the unpleasant state affairs prevailing + outside. Two whale-ships lay here—the TAMERLANE, of New Bedford, and + the CHANCE, of Bluff Harbour. I am bound to confess that there was a great + difference is appearance between the Yankee and the colonial—very + much in favour of the former. She was neat, smart, and seaworthy, looking + as if just launched; but the CHANCE looked like some poor old relic of a + bygone day, whose owners, unable to sell her, and too poor to keep her in + repair, were just letting her go while keeping up the insurance, praying + fervently each day that she might come to grief, and bring them a little + profit at last. + </p> + <p> + But although it is much safer to trust appearances in ships than in men, + any one who summed up the CHANCE from her generally outworn and + poverty-stricken looks would have been, as I was, "way off." Old she was, + with an indefinite antiquity, carelessly rigged, and vilely unkempt as to + her gear, while outside she did not seem to have had a coat of paint for a + generation. She looked what she really was—the sole survivor of the + once great whaling industry of New Zealand. For although struggling bay + whaling stations did exist in a few sheltered places far away from the + general run of traffic, the trade itself might truthfully be said to be + practically extinct. The old CHANCE alone, like some shadow of the past, + haunted Foveaux Straits, and made a better income for her fortunate owners + than any of the showy, swift coasting steamers that rushed contemptuously + past her on their eager way. + </p> + <p> + In many of the preceding pages I have, though possessing all an + Englishman's pride in the prowess of mine own people, been compelled to + bear witness to the wonderful smartness and courage shown by the American + whalemen, to whom their perilous calling seems to have become a second + nature. And on other occasions I have lamented that our own whalers, + either at home or in the colonies, never seemed to take so kindly to the + sperm whale fishery as the hardy "down Easters," who first taught them the + business; carried it on with increasing success, in spite of their + competition and the depredations of the ALABAMA; flourished long after the + English fishery was dead; and even now muster a fleet of ships engaged in + the same bold and hazardous calling. Therefore, it is the more pleasant to + me to be able to chronicle some of the doings of Captain Gilroy, + familiarly known as "Paddy," the master of the CHANCE, who was unsurpassed + as a whale-fisher or a seaman by any Yankee that ever sailed from Martha's + Vineyard. + </p> + <p> + He was a queer little figure of a man—short, tubby, with scanty red + hair, and a brogue thick as pea-soup. Eccentric in most things, he was + especially so in his dress, which he seemed to select on the principle of + finding the most unfitting things to wear. Rumour credited him with a + numerous half-breed progeny—certainly he was greatly mixed up with + the Maories, half his crew being made up of his dusky friends and + relations by MARRIAGE. Overflowing with kindliness and good temper, his + ship was a veritable ark of refuge for any unfortunate who needed help, + which accounted for the numerous deserters from Yankee whalers who were to + be found among his crew. Such whaling skippers as our late commander hated + him with ferocious intensity; and but for his Maori and half-breed + bodyguard, I have little doubt he would have long before been killed. + Living as he had for many years on that storm-beaten coast, he had become, + like his Maories, familiar with every rock and tree in fog or clear, by + night or day; he knew them, one might almost say, as the seal knows them, + and feared them as little. His men adored him. They believed him capable + of anything in the way of whaling, and would as soon have thought of + questioning the reality of daylight as the wisdom of his decisions. + </p> + <p> + I went on board the evening of, our arrival, hearing some rumours of the + doings of the old CHANCE and her crew, also with the idea that perhaps I + might find some countrymen among his very mixed crowd. The first man I + spoke to was Whitechapel to the backbone, plainly to be spotted as such as + if it had been tattooed on his forehead. Making myself at home with him, I + desired to know what brought him so far from the "big smoke," and on board + a whaler of all places in the world. He told me he had been a Pickford's + van-driver, but had emigrated to New Zealand, finding that he did not at + all like himself in the new country. Trying to pick and choose instead of + manfully choosing a pick and shovel for a beginning, he got hard up. + During one of Captain Gilroy's visits to the Bluff, he came across my + ex-drayman, looking hungry and woebegone. Invited on board to have a feed, + he begged to be allowed to remain; nor, although his assistance was not + needed, was he refused. "An nar," he said, his face glowing with conscious + pride, "y'ort ter see me in a bloomin' bowt. I ain't a-goain' ter say as I + kin fling wun o' them 'ere bloomin' 'arpoones like ar bowt-steerers kin; + but I kin do my bit o' grawft wiv enny on 'em—don'tchu make no + bloomin' herror." The glorious incongruity of the thing tickled me + immensely; but I laughed more heartily still when on going below I was + hailed as "Wot cher, chummy; 'ow yer hoppin' up?" by another barbarian + from the wilds of Spitalfields, who, from the secure shelter of his + cats'-meat round in 'Oxton, had got adrift, and, after being severely + buffeted by tempestuous ill-fortune, had finally found himself in the + comfortable old CHANCE, a haven of rest in the midst of storms. There were + sixteen white men on board the CHANCE, including the skipper, drawn as + usual from various European and American sources, the rest of her large + crew of over forty all told being made up of Maories and half-breeds. One + common interest united them, making them the jolliest crowd I ever saw—their + devotion to their commander. There was here to be found no jealousy of the + Maories being officers and harpooners, no black looks or discontented + murmuring; all hands seemed particularly well satisfied with their lot in + all its bearings; so that, although the old tub was malodorous enough to + turn even a pretty strong stomach, it was a pleasure to visit her cheerful + crowd for the sake of their enlivening society. + </p> + <p> + Of course, under our present circumstances, with the debris of our late + enormous catch filling every available space and loudly demanding + attention, we had little time to spare for ship visiting. Some boat or + other from the two ships was continually alongside of us, though, for + until the gale abated they could not get out to the grounds again, and + time hung heavy on their hands. The TAMERLANE's captain avoided Paddy as + if he were a leper—hated the sight of him, in fact, as did most of + his CONFRERES; but our genial skipper, whose crew were every whit as well + treated and contented as the CHANCE's, and who therefore needed not to + dread losing them, met the little philanthropist on the most friendly + terms. + </p> + <p> + The first fine weather, which came four days after our arrival, both our + harbour mates cleared out. Characteristically, the CHANCE was away first, + before daylight had quite asserted itself, and while the bases of the + cliffs and tops of the rocks were as yet hidden in dense wreaths of white + haze. Paddy lolled on the taff-rail near the wheel, which was held by an + immense half-breed, who leant back and carried on a desultory, familiar + conversation with his skipper; the rest of the crew were scattered about + the decks, apparently doing what they liked in any manner they chose. The + anchor was being catted, sails going up, and yards being trimmed; but, to + observers like us, no guiding spirit was noticeable. It seemed to work all + right, and the old ark herself looked as if she was as intelligent as any + of them; but the sight was not an agreeable one to men accustomed to + discipline. The contrast when the TAMERLANE came along an hour or so after + was emphatic. Every man at his post; every order carried out with the + precision of clockwork; the captain pacing the quarter-deck as if she were + a line-of-battle ship—here the airs put on were almost ludicrous in + the other direction. Although she was only "a good jump" long, as we say, + whenever an order was given, it was thundered out as if the men were a + mile away each officer appearing to vie with the others as to who could + bellow the loudest. That was carrying things to the opposite extreme, and + almost equally objectionable to merchant seamen. + </p> + <p> + We were thus left alone to finish our trying-out except for such company + as was afforded by the only resident's little schooner, in which he went + oyster-dredging. It was exceedingly comfortable in the small harbour, and + the fishing something to remember all one's life. That part of New Zealand + is famous for a fish something like a bream, but with a longer snout, and + striped longitudinally with black and yellow. I am ignorant of any + polysyllabic prefix for it, only knowing it by its trivial and local + appellation of the "trumpeter," from the peculiar sound it makes when out + of water. But no other fish out of the innumerable varieties which I have + sampled in all parts of the world could compare with the trumpeter for + flavour and delicacy. These qualities are well known to the inhabitants of + the large towns, who willingly pay high prices for the scanty supply of + these delicious fish which they are able to obtain. Of other succulent + fish there was a great variety, from the majestic "grouper," running up to + over a hundredweight, down to the familiar flounder. Very little fishing + could be done at night. Just as day was dawning was the ideal time for + this enticing sport. As soon as the first few streaks of delicate light + enlivened the dull horizon, a stray nibble or two gladdened the patient + fishermen; then as the light strengthened the fun became general, and in + about an hour enough fish would be caught to provide all hands with for + the day. + </p> + <p> + One morning, when a stark calm left, the surface of the bay as smooth as a + mirror, I was watching a few stealthily-gliding barracouta sneaking about + over the plainly visible bottom, though at a depth of seven or eight + fathoms. Ordinarily, these fish must be taken with a live bait; but, + remembering my experience with the dolphin, I determined to try a + carefully arranged strip of fish from one recently caught. In precisely + the same way as the dolphin, these long, snaky rascals carefully tested + the bait, lying still for sometimes as long as two minutes with the bait + in their mouths, ready to drop it out on the first intimation that it was + not a detached morsel. After these periods of waiting the artful creature + would turn to go, and a sudden jerk of the line then reminded him that he + was no longer a free agent, but mounting at headlong speed to a strange + bourne whence he never returned to tell the tale. My catch that lovely + morning scaled over a hundredweight in less than an hour, none of the fish + being less than ten pounds in weight. + </p> + <p> + The Maories have quite an original way of catching barracouta. They + prepare a piece of "rimu" (red pine) about three inches long, by an inch + broad, and a quarter of an inch thick. Through one end of this they drive + an inch nail bent upwards, and filed to a sharp point. The other end is + fastened to about a fathom of stout fishing-line, which is in turn secured + to the end of a five-foot pole. Seated in a boat with sail set, they slip + along until a school of barracouta is happened upon. Then the peak of the + sail is dropped, so as to deaden the boat's way, while the fishermen ply + their poles with a sidelong sweep that threshes the bit of shining red + through the water, making it irresistibly attractive to a struggling horde + of ravenous fish. One by one, as swiftly as the rod can be wielded, the + lithe forms drop off the barbless hook into the boat, till the vigorous + arm can no longer respond to the will of the fisherman, or the vessel will + hold no more. + </p> + <p> + Such were the goodly proportions of this first Solander whale of ours + that, in spite of the serious loss of the case, we made thirteen and a + half tuns of oil. When the fifteen huge casks containing it were stowed in + their final positions, they made an imposing show, inspiring all of us + with visions of soon being homeward bound. For the present we were, + perforce, idle; for the wind had set in to blow steadily and strongly + right up the Straits, preventing any attempts to get out while it lasted. + The time did not hang heavy on our hands, for the surrounding country + offered many attractions, which we were allowed to take full advantage of. + Spearing eels and flounders at night by means of a cresset hung out over + the boat's bow, as she was slowly sculled up the long, shallow creeks, was + a favourite form of amusement. Mr. Cross, the resident, kindly allowed us + to raid his garden, where the ripe fruit was rotting by the bushel for + want of consumers. We needed no pressing; for fruit, since we left Vau + Vau, of any kind had not come in our way; besides, these were "homey"—currants, + gooseberries, strawberries—delightful to see, smell, and taste. So + it came to pass that we had a high old time, unmarred by a single + regrettable incident, until, after an enforced detention of twenty days, + we were able to get to sea again. + </p> + <p> + Halfway down the Straits we sighted the CHANCE, all hands ripping the + blubber off a sizeable whale in the same "anyhow" fashion as they handled + their ship. They were in high glee, giving us a rousing cheer as we passed + them on our westward course. Arriving on the ground, we found a goodly + company of fine ships, which I could not help thinking too many for so + small an area. During our absence, the TAMERLANE had been joined by the + ELIZA ADAMS, the MATILDA SAYER, the CORAL, and the RAINBOW; and it was + evident that no whale venturing within the radius of the Solander in the + daytime would stand much chance of escaping such a battery of eager eyes. + Only three days elapsed after our arrival when whales were seen. For the + first time, I realized how numerous those gigantic denizens of the sea + really are. As far as the eye could reach, extending all round one-half of + the horizon, the sea appeared to be alive with spouts—all sperm + whales, all bulls of great size. The value of this incredible school must + have been incalculable. Subsequent experience satisfied me that such a + sight was by no means uncommon here; in fact, "lone whales" or small + "pods" were quite the exception. + </p> + <p> + Well, we all "waded in," getting, some two, some one whale apiece, + according to the ability of the crews or the fortune of war. Only one fell + to our lot in the CACHALOT, but it was just as well. We had hardly, got + him fast by the fluke alongside when it began to pipe up from the + north-east. In less than one watch the sea was fairly smoking with the + fierceness of the wind. We were unable to get in anywhere, being, with a + whale alongside, about as handy as a barge loaded with a haystack; while + those unfortunate beggars that had two whales fast to them were utterly + helpless as far as independent locomotion went, unless they could run dead + before the wind. Every ship made all snug aloft, and hoisted the boats to + the top notch of the cranes, fully anticipating a long, hard struggle with + the elements before they got back to the cruising ground again. Cutting-in + was out of the question in such weather; the only thing possible was to + hope for a shift of wind before she got too far out, or a break in the + weather. Neither of these events was probable, as all frequenters of South + New Zealand know, bad weather having there an unhappy knack of being as + persistent as fine weather is brief. + </p> + <p> + Night drew on as our forlorn and heavily handicapped little fleet bore + steadily seaward with their burdens, the angry, ever-increasing sea, + battering at us vengefully, while the huge carcasses alongside tore and + strained at their fastenings as if they would rend the ships asunder. + Slowly our companions faded from sight as the murky sky shut down on us, + until in lonely helplessness we drifted on our weary way out into the + vast, inhospitable Southern Ocean. Throughout the dark and stormy night + our brave old ship held on her unwilling way right gallantly, making no + water, in spite of the fearful strain to which she was subjected, nor + taking any heavy sea over all. Morning broke cheerlessly enough. No + abatement in the gale or change in its direction; indeed, it looked like + lasting a month. Only one ship was visible far to leeward of us, and she + was hull down. Our whale was beginning to swell rapidly, already floating + at least three feet above the surface instead of just awash, as when newly + killed. The skipper eyed it gloomily, seeing the near prospect of its + entire loss, but he said nothing. In fact, very little was said; but the + stories we had heard in the Bay of Islands came back to us with + significant force now that their justification was so apparent. + </p> + <p> + Hour after hour went by without any change whatever, except in the whale, + which, like some gradually filling balloon, rose higher and higher, till + at nightfall its bulk was appalling. All through the night those on deck + did little else but stare at its increasing size, which when morning + dawned again, was so great that the animal's bilge rode level with the + ship's rail, while in her lee rolls it towered above the deck like a + mountain. The final scene with it was now a question of minutes only, so + most of us, fascinated by the strange spectacle, watched and waited. + Suddenly, with a roar like the bursting of a dam, the pent-up gases tore + their furious way out of the distended carcass, hurling the entrails in + one horrible entanglement widespread over the sea. It was well for us that + it was to leeward and a strong gale howling; for even then the unutterable + foetor wrought its poisonous way back through that fierce, pure blast, + permeating every nook of the ship with its filthy vapour till the stoutest + stomach there protested in unmistakable terms against such vile treatment. + Knowing too well that the blubber was now worthless, the skipper gave + orders to cut the corrupt mass adrift. This was speedily effected by a few + strokes of a spade through the small. Away went eight hundred pounds' + worth of oil—another sacrifice to the exigencies of the Solander, + such as had gained for it so evil a reputation. + </p> + <p> + Doubtless a similar experience had befallen all the other ships, so that + the aggregate loss must have run into thousands of pounds, every penny of + which might have been saved had steam been available. + </p> + <p> + That gale lasted, with a few short lulls, for five days longer. When at + last it took off, and was succeeded by fine weather, we were so far to the + southward that we might have fetched the Aucklands in another twenty-four + hours. But, to our great relief, a strong southerly breeze set in, before + which, under every rag of canvas, we sped north again. + </p> + <p> + Steady and reliable as ever, that good south wind carried us back to our + old cruising ground ere it blew itself out, and we resumed our usual + tactics as if nothing had happened, being none the worse as regards + equipment for our adventures. Not so fortunate our companions, who at the + same time as ourselves were thrust out into the vast Southern Ocean, + helplessly burdened and exposed defenceless to all the ferocity of that + devouring gale, Two of them were here prowling about, showing evident + signs of their conflict in the battered state of their hulls. The glaring + whiteness of new planking in many places along the bulwarks told an + eloquent story of seas bursting on board carrying all before them, while + empty cranes testified to the loss of a boat in both of them. As soon as + we came near enough, "gamming" commenced, for all of us were anxious to + know how each other had fared. + </p> + <p> + As we anticipated, every whale was lost that had been caught that day. The + disappointment was in nowise lessened by the knowledge that, with his + usual good fortune Captain Gilroy had not only escaped all the bad + weather, but while we were being threshed within an inch of our lives down + in the bitter south, he was calmly trying-out his whale (which we had seen + him with on our outward journey) in the sheltered haven of Port William. + Many and deep were the curses bestowed upon him by the infuriated crews of + those two ships, although he had certainly done them no harm. But the + sight of other people's good fortune is gall and wormwood to a vast number + of people, who seem to take it as a personal injury done to themselves. + </p> + <p> + Only two days elapsed, however, before we again saw an immense school of + sperm whales, and each ship succeeded in securing one. We made no attempt + to get more this time, nor do I think either of the others did; at any + rate, one each was the result of the day's work. They were, as usual, of + huge size and apparently very fat. At the time we secured our fish + alongside, a fresh north-westerly wind was blowing, the weather being + clear and beautiful as heart could wish. But instead of commencing at once + to cut-in, Captain Count gave orders to pile on all sail and keep her away + up the Straits. He was evidently determined to take no more chances, but, + whenever opportunity offered, to follow the example set by the wily old + skipper of the CHANCE. The other ships both started to cut-in at once, + tempted, doubtless, by the settled appearance of the weather, and also + perhaps from their hardly concealed dislike of going into port. We bowled + along at a fine rate, towing our prize, that plunged and rolled by our + side in eccentric style, almost as if still alive. Along about midnight we + reached Saddle Point, where there was some shelter from the sea which + rolled up the wide open strait, and there we anchored. + </p> + <p> + Leaving me and a couple of Kanakas on watch, the captain, and all hands + besides, went below for a little sleep. My instructions were to call the + captain if the weather got at all ugly-looking, so that we might run in to + Port William at once, but he did not wish to do so if our present position + proved sufficiently sheltered. He had not been below an hour before there + was a change for the worse. That greasy, filmy haze was again drawn over + the clear blue of the sky, and the light scud began to fly overhead at an + alarmingly rapid rate. So at four bells I called him again. He came on + deck at once, and after one look round ordered the hands up to man the + windlass. By eight bells (four a.m.) we were rounding the frowning rocks + at the entrance of Port William, and threading our way between the + closely-set, kelp-hidden dangers as if it were broadest, dearest daylight. + At 4.30 we let go the anchor again, and all hands, except the regular + "anchor-watch," bolted below to their bunks again like so many rabbits. + </p> + <p> + It was very comfortable, cutting-in a sperm whale in harbour, after the + dire difficulty of performing the same operation in a seaway. And, + although it may seem strange, this was the first occasion that voyage that + I had had a really good opportunity of closely studying the whale's + anatomy. Consequently the work was exceedingly interesting, and, in spite + of the labour involved, I was almost sorry when the job was done. Under + the present favourable circumstances we were ready to cut the carcass + adrift shortly after midday, the head, of course, having been taken off + first. Just after we started to cut-in a boat appeared alongside with six + Maories and half-breeds on board. Their leader came up and civilly asked + the skipper whether he intended doing anything with the carcass. Upon + being promptly answered in the negative, he said that he and his + companions proposed hooking on to the great mass when we cut it adrift, + towing it ashore, and getting out of it what oil we had been unable to + extract, which at sea is always lost to the ship. He also suggested that + he would be prepared to take reasonable terms for such oil, which we + should be able to mingle with ours to our advantage. An arrangement was + speedily arrived at to give him L20 per tun for whatever oil he made. They + parted on the best of terms with each other, and as soon as we cut the + carcass loose the Maories made fast, to it, speedily beaching it in a + convenient spot near where they had previously erected a most primitive + try-works. + </p> + <p> + That afternoon, after the head was inboard, the skipper thought he would + go ashore and see how they were getting on. I was so fortunate as to be + able to accompany him. When we arrived at the spot, we found them working + as I have never seen men work, except perhaps the small riggers that at + home take a job—three or four of them—to bend or unbend a big + ship's sails for a lump sum to be paid when the work is done. They + attacked the carcass furiously, as if they had a personal enmity against + it, chopping through the massive bones and rending off huge lumps of the + flesh with marvellous speed. They had already laid open the enormous + cavity of the abdomen, and were stripping the interminable intestines of + their rich coating of fat. In the maw there were, besides a large quantity + of dismembered squid of great size, a number of fish, such as rock-cod, + barracouta, schnapper, and the like, whose presence there was a revelation + to me. How in the name of wonder so huge and unwieldy a creature as the + cachalot could manage to catch those nimble members of the finny tribe, I + could not for the life of me divine! Unless—and after much + cogitation it was the only feasible explanation that I could see—as + the cachalot swims about with his lower jaw hanging down in its normal + position, and his huge gullet gaping like some submarine cavern, the fish + unwittingly glide down it, to find egress impossible. This may or may not + be the case; but I, at any rate, can find no more reasonable theory, for + it is manifestly absurd to suppose the whale capable of CATCHING fish in + the ordinary sense, indicating pursuit. + </p> + <p> + Every part of the animal yielded oil. Even the bones, broken up into + pieces capable of entering the pot, were boiled; and by the time we had + finished our trying-out, the result of the Maories' labour was ready for + us. Less than a week had sufficed to yield them a net sum of six guineas + each, even at the very low rate for which they sold us the oil. Except + that it was a little darker in colour, a defect that would disappear when + mixed with our store, there was no difference between the products that + could be readily detected. And at the price we paid for it, there was a + clear profit of cent. per cent., even had we kept it separate and sold it + for what it was. But I suppose it was worth the Maories' while thus to + dispose of it and quickly realize their hard earnings. + </p> + <p> + So far, our last excursion had been entirely satisfactory. We had not + suffered any loss or endured any hardship; and if only such comfortable + proceedings were more frequent, the Solander ground would not have any + terrors for us at least. But one afternoon there crept in around the + eastern horn of the harbour three forlorn and half-dismantled vessels, + whose weather-worn crews looked wistfully at us engaged in clearing up + decks and putting away gear upon the finishing of our trying-out. Poor + fellows! they had seen rough times since that unforgettable evening when + we parted from them at the other end of the island, and watched them + slowly fade into the night. Two of them were so badly damaged that no + further fishing was possible for them until they had undergone a thorough + refit, such as they could not manage there. One was leaking badly, the + tremendous strain put upon her hull in the vain attempt to hold on to the + two whales she had during the gale having racked her almost all to pieces. + The third one was still capable of taking the ground again, with sundry + repairs such as could be effected by her crew. But the general feeling + among all three crews was that there was more loss than gain to be + expected here, in spite of the multitude of whales visiting the place. + </p> + <p> + As if to fill up their cup, in came the old CHANCE again, this time with a + whale on each side. Captain Gilroy was on the house aft, his chubby red + face in a ruddy glow of delight, and his crew exuberant. When he passed + the American ships, as he was bound to do very closely, the sight of their + scowling faces seemed to afford him the most exquisite amusement, and he + laughed loud and long. His crew, on the impulse of the moment, sprang to + the rail and cheered with might and main. No one could gainsay that they + had good reason, but I really feared for a time that we should have + "ructions," As Paddy said, it was not wise or dignified for those officers + to be so angry with him on account of his success, which he frankly owned + was due almost entirely to the local knowledge he possessed, gained in + many years' study of the immediate neighbourhood. He declared that, as far + as the technical duties of whale-fishing went, all the Americans could + beat him hollow; but they ought to realize that something else was needed + here which no man could hope to have unless he were content to remain on + the coast altogether. With which words of wisdom our skipper cordially + agreed, bearing in mind his own exploits in the bygone time around those + rugged shores. + </p> + <p> + The strong breeze which brought Paddy and his whales home died down that + night, enabling us to start for the grounds again—a concession + gratefully received, for not the least of the hindrances felt there was + the liability to be "wind-bound" for a long time, while fine weather was + prevailing at the fishing grounds. + </p> + <p> + We made a fine passage down the Straits with a leading wind, finding our + two late companions still cruising, having managed to get their whales + aboard without mishap, and being somewhat inclined to chaff our old man + for running in. He gave a wink full of wisdom, as he replied, "I'm pretty + ole whale myself naouw; but I guess I ain't too old to learn; 'n wut I + learn I'm goin' ter use. See?" Of course the fine weather did not last + long—it never does; and seeing the gloomy masses of violet-edged + cumuli piling up on the southern horizon, we hugged the Solander Rock + itself pretty close, nor ventured far to seaward. Our two consorts, on the + contrary, kept well out and on the northern verge, as if they intended the + next gale that blew to get north, IF they could. The old man's object in + thus keeping in was solely in order that he might be able to run for + shelter; but, much to his delight and certainly surprise, as we passed + about a mile to the southward of the lonely, towering crags of the great + rock, there came from aloft the welcome cry of "Sperm whale!" + </p> + <p> + There was only one, and he was uncomfortably near the rock; but such a + splendid chance was not to be missed, if our previous training was of any + avail. There was some speculation as to what he could be doing so close + inshore, contrary to the habit of this animal, who seems to be only + comfortable when in deep waters; but except a suggestion that perhaps he + had come in to scrape off an extra accumulation of barnacles, nobody could + arrive at any definite conclusion. When we reached him, we found a + frightful blind swell rolling, and it needed all our seamanship to handle + the boats so that they should not be capsized. Fortunately, the huge + rollers did not break, or we should hardly have got back safely, whale or + no whale. + </p> + <p> + Two irons were planted in him, of which he took not the slightest notice. + We had taken in sail before closing in to him on account of the swell, so + that we had only to go in and finish him at once, if he would let us. + Accordingly, we went in with a will, but for all sign of life he showed he + might as well have been stuffed. There he lay, lazily spouting, the blood + pouring, or rather spirting, from his numerous wounds, allowing us to add + to their number at our pleasure, and never moving his vast body, which was + gently swayed by the rolling sea. Seeing him thus quiescent, the mate sent + the other two boats back to the ship with the good news, which the captain + received with a grave smile of content, proceeding at once to bring the + ship as near as might be consistent with her safety. We were now + thoroughly sheltered from sight of the other ships by the enormous mass of + the island, so that they had no idea of our proceedings. + </p> + <p> + Finding that it was not wise to take the ship in any closer, while we were + yet some distance from our prize, a boat was sent to Mr. Cruce with the + instructions that he was to run his line from the whale back to the ship, + if the creature was dead. He (the mate) replied that the whale died as + quietly as he had taken his wounds, and immediately started for the ship. + When he had paid out all his line, another boat bent on, until we got the + end on board. Then we merrily walked him up alongside, while sufficient + sail was kept drawing to prevent her being set in any nearer. When he was + fast, we crowded on all canvas to get away; for although the sea was deep + close up to the cliff, that swell was a very ugly feature, and one which + has been responsible for the loss of a great number of ships in such + places all over the world. Notwithstanding all our efforts, we did get so + near that every detail of the rock was clearly visible to the naked eye, + and we had some anxious minutes while the old ship, rolling tremendously, + crawled inch after inch along the awful side of that sea-encircled + pyramid. + </p> + <p> + At one point there was quite a cave, the floor of which would be some + twenty feet above high-water mark, and its roof about the same distance + higher. It appeared to penetrate some distance into the bowels of the + mountain, and was wide and roomy. Sea-birds in great numbers hovered + around its entrance, finding it, no doubt, an ideal nesting-place. It + appeared quite inaccessible, for even with a perfect calm the swell dashed + against the perpendicular face of the cliff beneath with a force that + would have instantly destroyed any vessel unfortunate enough to get within + its influence. + </p> + <p> + Slowly, slowly we forged past the danger; but the moment we opened out the + extremity of the island, a fresh breeze, like a saving hand, swept across + the bows, filling the head-sails and swinging the old vessel away from the + island in grand style. Another minute, and the other sails filled also. We + were safe, all hands breathing freely once more. + </p> + <p> + Now the wind hung far round to the eastward—far enough to frustrate + any design we might have had of going up the Straits again. The old man, + however, was too deeply impressed with the paramount necessity of shelter + to lightly give up the idea of getting in somewhere; so he pointed her for + Preservation Inlet, which was only some thirty miles under her lee. We + crowded all sail upon her in the endeavour to get in before nightfall, + this unusual proceeding bringing our two friends up from to leeward with a + run to see what we were after. Burdened as we were, they sailed nearly two + knots to our one, and consequently intercepted us some while before we + neared our port. Great was their surprise to find we had a whale, and very + anxious their queries as to where the rest of the school had gone. + Reassured that they had lost nothing by not being nearer, it being a + "lone" whale, off they went again. + </p> + <p> + With all our efforts, evening was fast closing in when we entered the + majestic portals of Preservation Inlet, and gazed with deepest interest + upon its heavily wooded shores. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVI. PADDY'S LATEST EXPLOIT + </h2> + <p> + New Zealand is pre-eminently a country of grand harbours; but I think + those that are least used easily bear the palm for grandeur of scenery and + facility of access. The wonderful harbour, or rather series of harbours, + into which we were now entering for the first time, greatly resembled in + appearance a Norwegian fjord, not only in the character of its scenery, + but from the interesting, if disconcerting, fact that the cliffs were so + steep-to that in some places no anchorage is found alongside the very land + itself. There are, however, many places where the best possible anchorage + can be obtained, so securely sheltered that a howling south-wester may be + tearing the sea up by the roots outside, and you will know nothing of it + within, except what may be surmised from the motion of the clouds + overhead. It was an ideal place for a whaling station, being right on the + Solander. + </p> + <p> + We found it exceedingly convenient, and much nearer than Port William, + but, from the prevailing winds, difficult of access in nine cases out of + ten, especially when hampered with a whale. Upon cutting-in our latest + catch, an easy explanation of his passive attitude was at once + forthcoming. He had been attacked by some whale-ship, whose irons had + drawn, leaving deep traces of their presence; but during the battle he had + received SEVEN bombs, all of which had entered around his small, but had + not exploded. Their general effect had been, I should think, to paralyze + the great muscles of his flukes, rendering him unable to travel; yet this + could not have taken place until some time after he had made good his + escape from those aggressors. It was instructive, as demonstrating what + amount of injury these colossi really can survive, and I have no doubt + that, if he had been left alone, he would have recovered his normal + energy, and been as well as ever. From our point of view, of course, what + had happened was the best possible thing, for he came almost as a gift—the + second capture we had made on these grounds of a like nature. + </p> + <p> + At the close of our operations the welcome news was made public that four + more fish like the present one would fill us bung-up, and that we should + then, after a brief visit to the Bluff, start direct for home. This + announcement, though expected for some time past, gave an amazing fillip + to everybody's interest in the work. The strange spectacle was witnessed + of all hands being anxious to quit a snug harbour for the sea, where + stern, hard wrestling with the elements was the rule. The captain, well + pleased with the eagerness manifested, had his boat manned for a trip to + the entrance of the harbour, to see what the weather was like outside, + since it was not possible to judge from where the ship lay. On his return, + he reported the weather rough, but moderating, and announced his intention + of weighing at daylight next morning. Satisfied that our days in the + southern hemisphere were numbered, and all anxiety to point her head for + home, this news was most pleasing, putting all of us in the best of + humours, and provoking quite an entertainment of song and dance until + nearly four bells. + </p> + <p> + During the grey of dawn the anchor was weighed. There was no breath of + wind from any quarter, so that it was necessary to lower boats and tow the + old girl out to her field of duty. Before she was fairly clear of the + harbour, though, there came a "snifter" from the hills that caught her + unprepared, making her reel again, and giving us a desperate few minutes + to scramble on board and hoist our boats up. As we drew out from the land, + we found that a moderate gale was blowing, but the sky was clear, + fathomless blue, the sun rose kindly, a heavenly dream of soft delicate + colour preceding him; so that, in spite of the strong breeze, all looked + promising for a good campaign. At first no sign could be seen of any of + the other ships, though we looked long and eagerly for them. At last we + saw them, four in all, nearly hull down to seaward, but evidently coming + in under press of sail. So slow, however, was their approach that we had + made one "leg" across the ground and halfway back before they were near + enough for us to descry the reason of their want of speed. They had each + got a whale alongside, and were carrying every rag of canvas they could + spread, in order to get in with their prizes. + </p> + <p> + Our old acquaintance, the CHANCE, was there, the three others being her + former competitors, except those who were disabled, still lying in Port + William. Slowly, painfully they laboured along, until well within the + mouth of the Straits, when, without any warning, the wind which had been + bringing them in suddenly flew round into the northward, putting them at + once in a most perilous position. Too far within the Straits to "up helm" + and run for it out to sea; not far enough to get anywhere that an anchor + might hold; and there to leeward, within less than a dozen miles, loomed + grim and gloomy one of the most terrific rock-bound coasts in the world. + The shift of wind had placed the CHANCE farther to leeward than all the + rest, a good mile and a half nearer the shore; and we could well imagine + how anxiously her movements were being watched by the others, who, in + spite of their jealousy of his good luck, knew well and appreciated fully + Paddy's marvellous seamanship, as well as his unparalleled knowledge of + the coast. + </p> + <p> + Having no whale to hamper our movements, besides being well to windward of + them all, we were perfectly comfortable as long as we kept to seaward of a + certain line and the gale was not too fierce, so for the present all our + attention was concentrated upon the labouring ships to leeward. The + intervention of the land to windward kept the sea from rising to the awful + height it attains under the pressure of a westerly, or a south-westerly + gale, when, gathering momentum over an area extending right round the + globe, it hurls itself upon those rugged shores. Still, it was bad enough. + The fact of the gale striking across the regular set of the swell and + current had the effect of making the sea irregular, short, and broken, + which state of things is considered worse, as far as handling the ship + goes, than a much heavier, longer, but more regular succession of waves. + </p> + <p> + As the devoted craft drifted helplessly down upon that frowning barrier, + our excitement grew intense. Their inability to do anything but drift was + only too well known by experience to every one of us, nor would it be + possible for them to escape at all if they persisted in holding on much + longer. And it was easy to see why they did so. While Paddy held on so far + to leeward of them, and consequently in so much more imminent danger than + they were, it would be derogatory in the highest degree to their + reputation for seamanship and courage were they to slip and run before he + did. He, however, showed no sign of doing so, although they all neared, + with an accelerated drift, that point from whence no seamanship could + deliver them, and where death inevitable, cruel, awaited them without hope + of escape. The part of the coast upon which they were apparently driving + was about as dangerous and impracticable as any in the world. A gigantic + barrier of black, naked rock, extending for several hundred yards, rose + sheer from the sea beneath, like the side of an ironclad, up to a height + of seven or eight hundred feet. No outlying spurs of submerged fragments + broke the immeasurable landward rush of the majestic waves towards the + frowning face of this world-fragment. Fresh from their source, with all + the impetus accumulated in their thousand-mile journey, they came + apparently irresistible. Against this perpendicular barrier they hurled + themselves with a shock that vibrated far inland, and a roar that rose in + a dominating diapason over the continuous thunder of the tempest-riven + sea. High as was the summit of the cliff, the spray, hurled upwards by the + tremendous impact, rose higher, so that the whole front of the great rock + was veiled in filmy wreaths of foam, hiding its solidity from the seaward + view. At either end of this vast, rampart nothing could be seen but a + waste of breakers seething, hissing, like the foot of Niagara, and + effectually concealing the CHEVAUX DE FRISE of rocks which produced such a + vortex of tormented waters. + </p> + <p> + Towards this dreadful spot, then, the four vessels were being resistlessly + driven, every moment seeing their chances of escape lessening to + vanishing-point. Suddenly, as if panic-stricken, the ship nearest to the + CHANCE gave a great sweep round on to the other tack, a few fluttering + gleams aloft showing that even in that storm they were daring to set some + sail. What the manoeuvre meant we knew very well—they had cut adrift + from their whale, terrified at last beyond endurance into the belief that + Paddy was going to sacrifice himself and his crew in the attempt to lure + them with him to inevitable destruction. The other two did not hesitate + longer. The example once set, they immediately followed; but it was for + some time doubtful in the extreme whether their resolve was not taken too + late to save them from destruction. We watched them with breathless + interest, unable for a long time to satisfy ourselves that they were out + of danger. But at last we saw them shortening sail again—a sure sign + that they considered themselves, while the wind held in the same quarter, + safe from going ashore at any rate, although there was still before them + the prospect of a long struggle with the unrelenting ferocity of the + weather down south. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, what of the daring Irishman and his old barrel of a ship? The + fugitives once safe off the land, all our interest centred in the CHANCE. + We watched her until she drew in so closely to the seething cauldron of + breakers that it was only occasionally we could distinguish her outline; + and the weather was becoming so thick and dirty, the light so bad, that we + were reluctantly compelled to lose sight of her, although the skipper + believed that he saw her in the midst of the turmoil of broken water at + the western end of the mighty mass of perpendicular cliff before + described. Happily for us, the wind veered to the westward, releasing us + from the prospect of another enforced visit to the wild regions south of + the island. It blew harder than ever; but being now a fair wind up the + Straits, we fled before it, anchoring again in Port William before + midnight. Here we were compelled to remain for a week; for after the gale + blew itself out, the wind still hung in the same quarter, refusing to + allow us to get back again to our cruising station. + </p> + <p> + But on the second day of our enforced detention a ship poked her jibboom + round the west end of the little bay. No words could describe our + condition of spellbound astonishment when she rounded-to, cumbrously as + befitting a ship towing a whale, and revealed to us the well-remembered + outlines of the old CHANCE. It was like welcoming the first-fruits of the + resurrection; for who among sailor men, having seen a vessel disappear + from their sight, as we had, under such terrible conditions, would ever + have expected to see her again? She was hardly anchored before our skipper + was alongside, thirsting to satisfy his unbounded curiosity as to the + unheard-of means whereby she had escaped such apparently inevitable + destruction. I was fortunate enough to accompany him, and hear the story + at first-hand. + </p> + <p> + It appeared that none of the white men on board, except the redoubtable + Paddy himself, had ever been placed in so seemingly hopeless and desperate + a position before. Yet when they saw how calm and free from anxiety their + commander was, how cool and business-like the attitude of all their dusky + shipmates, their confidence in his ability and resourcefulness kept its + usual high level. It must be admitted that the test such feelings were + then subjected to was of the severest, for to their eyes no possible + avenue of escape was open. Along that glaring line of raging, foaming + water not a break occurred, not the faintest indication of an opening + anywhere wherein even so experienced a pilot as Paddy might thrust a ship. + The great black wall of rock loomed up by their side, grim and pitiless as + doom—a very door of adamant closed against all hope. Nearer and + nearer they drew, until the roar of the baffled Pacific was deafening, + maddening, in its overwhelming volume of chaotic sound. All hands stood + motionless, with eyes fixed in horrible fascination upon the indescribable + vortex to which they were being irresistibly driven. + </p> + <p> + At last, just as the fringes of the back-beaten billows hissed up to greet + them, they felt her motion ease. Instinctively looking aft, they saw the + skipper coolly wave his hand, signing to them to trim the yards. As they + hauled on the weather braces, she plunged through the maelstrom of + breakers, and before they had got the yards right round they were on the + other side of that enormous barrier, the anchor was dropped, and all was + still. The vessel rested, like a bird on her nest, in a deep, still tarn, + shut in, to all appearance, on every side by huge rock barriers. Of the + furious storm but a moment before howling and raging all around them, + nothing remained but an all-pervading, thunderous hum, causing the deck to + vibrate beneath them, and high overhead the jagged, leaden remnants of + twisted, tortured cloud whirling past their tiny oblong of sky. Just a + minute's suspension of all faculties but wonder, then, in one spontaneous, + heartfelt note of genuine admiration, all hands burst into a cheer that + even overtopped the mighty rumble of the baffled sea. + </p> + <p> + Here they lay, perfectly secure, and cut in their whale as if in dock; + then at the first opportunity they ran out, with fearful difficulty, a + kedge with a whale-line attached, by which means they warped the vessel + out of her hiding-place—a far more arduous operation than getting in + had been. But even this did not exhaust the wonders of that occasion. They + had hardly got way upon her, beginning to draw out from the land, when the + eagle-eye of one of the Maories detected the carcass of a whale rolling + among the breakers about half a mile to the westward. Immediately a boat + was lowered, a double allowance of line put into her, and off they went to + the valuable flotsam. Dangerous in the highest degree was the task of + getting near enough to drive harpoons into the body; but it was + successfully accomplished, the line run on board, and the prize hauled + triumphantly alongside. This was the whale they had now brought in. We + shrewdly suspected that it must have been one of those abandoned by the + unfortunate vessels who had fled, but etiquette forbade us saying anything + about it. Even had it been, another day would have seen it valueless to + any one, for it was by no means otto of roses to sniff at now, while they + had certainly salved it at the peril of their lives. + </p> + <p> + When we returned on board and repeated the story, great was the amazement. + Such a feat of seamanship was almost beyond belief; but we were shut up to + believing, since in no other way could the vessel's miraculous escape be + accounted for. The little, dumpy, red-faced figure, rigged like any + scarecrow, that now stood on his cutting-stage, punching away vigorously + at the fetid mass of blubber beneath him, bore no outward visible sign of + a hero about him; but in our eyes he was transfigured—a being to be + thought of reverently, as one who in all those dualities that go to the + making of a man had proved himself of the seed royal, a king of men, all + the more kingly because unconscious that his deeds were of so exalted an + order. + </p> + <p> + I am afraid that, to a landsman, my panegyric may smack strongly of gush, + for no one but a seaman can rightly appraise such doings as these; but I + may be permitted to say that, when I think of men whom I feel glad to have + lived to know, foremost among them rises the queer little figure of Paddy + Gilroy. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0027" id="link2HCH0027"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVII. PORT PEGASUS + </h2> + <p> + The wind still holding steadily in the old quarter, our skipper got very + restless. He recalled his former exploits, and, firing at the thought, + decided then and there to have a trip round to Port Pegasus, in the hope + that he might meet with some of his former good luck in the vicinity of + that magnificent bay. With the greatest alacrity we obeyed his summons, + handling the old barky as if she were a small boat, and the same morning, + for the first time, ran out of the Straits to the eastward past Ruapuke + Island. Beautiful weather prevailed, making our trip a delightful one, the + wonderful scenery of that coast appealing to even the most callous or + indifferent among us. We hugged the land closely, the skipper being + familiar with all of it in a general way, so that none of its beauties + were lost to us. The breeze holding good, by nightfall we had reached our + destination, anchoring in the north arm near a tumbling cascade of + glittering water that looked like a long feather laid on the dark-green + slope of the steep hill from which it gushed. + </p> + <p> + We had not been long at anchor before we had visitors—half-breed + Maories, who, like the Finns and Canadians, are farmers, fishermen, + sailors, and shipwrights, as necessity arises. They brought us potatoes—most + welcome of all fruit to the sailor—cabbages, onions, and "mutton + birds." This latter delicacy is a great staple of their flesh food, but is + one of the strangest dishes imaginable. When it is being cooked in the + usual way, i.e. by grilling, it smells exactly like a piece of roasting + mutton; but it tastes, to my mind, like nothing else in the world so much + as a kippered herring. There is a gastronomical paradox, if you like. Only + the young birds are taken for eating. They are found, when unfledged, in + holes of the rocks, and weigh sometimes treble as much as their parents. + They are exceedingly fat; but this substance is nearly all removed from + their bodies before they are hung up in the smoke-houses. They are split + open like a haddock, and carefully smoked, after being steeped in brine. + Baskets, something like exaggerated strawberry pottles of the old conical + shape, are prepared, to hold each about a dozen birds. They are lined with + leaves, then packed with the birds, the melted fat being run into all the + interstices until the basket is full. The top is then neatly tied up with + more leaves, and, thus preserved, the contents will keep in cool weather + an indefinite length of time. + </p> + <p> + Captain Count was soon recognized by some of his old friends, who were + delighted to welcome him again. Their faces fell, however, when he told + them that his stay was to be very brief, and that he only required four + good-sized fish to fill up. Inquiry as to the prevalence of sperm whales + in the vicinity elicited the news that they were as plentiful as they had + ever been—if anything, more so, since the visits of the whalers had + become fewer. There were a couple of "bay" whaling stations existing; but, + of course, their success could not be expected to be great among the + cachalots, who usually keep a respectful distance from harbours, while + they had driven the right whales away almost entirely. + </p> + <p> + No one could help being struck by the manly bearing, splendid physique, + and simple manners of the inhabitants. If ever it falls to the lot of any + one, as I hope it will, to establish a sperm whale fishery in these + regions, there need be no lack of workers while such grand specimens of + manhood abound there as we saw—all, moreover, fishermen and whalers + from their earliest days. + </p> + <p> + We did not go far afield, but hovered within ten or fifteen miles of the + various entrances, so as not to be blown off the land in case of sudden + bad weather. Even with that timid offing, we were only there two days, + when an enormous school of sperm whales hove in sight. I dare not say how + many I believe there were, and my estimate really might be biassed; but + this I know, that in no given direction could one look to seaward and not + see many spouts. + </p> + <p> + We got among them and had a good time, being more hampered by the + curiosity of the unattached fish than by the pugnacity of those under our + immediate attention. So we killed three, and by preconcerted signal warned + the watchers on the lofty points ashore of our success. As speedily as + possible off came four boats from the shore stations, and hooked on to two + of our fish, while we were busy with the third. The wind being off shore, + what there was of it, no time was to be lost, in view of the well-known + untrustworthiness of the weather; so we started to cut-in at once, while + the shore people worked like giants to tow the other two in. Considering + the weakness of their forces, they made marvellous progress; but seeing + how terribly exhausting the toil was, one could not help wishing them one + of the small London tugs, familiarly known as "jackals," which would have + snaked those monsters along at three or four knots an hour. + </p> + <p> + However, all went well; the usual gale did blow but not till we had got + the last piece aboard and a good "slant" to run in, arriving at our + previous moorings at midnight. In the morning the skipper went down in his + boat to visit the stations, and see how they had fared. Old hand as he + was, I think he was astonished to see what progress those fellows had made + with the fish. They did not reach the stations till after midnight, but + already they had the whales half flenched, and, by the way they were + working, it looked as if they would be through with their task as soon as + we were with ours. Their agreement with the skipper was to yield us half + the oil they made, and, if agreeable to them, we would take their moiety + at L40 per tun. Consequently they had something to work for, even though + there were twenty of them to share the spoil. They were a merry party, + eminently good tempered, and working as though one spirit animated them + all. If there was a leader of the band, he did his office with great + subtilty, for all seemed equal, nor did any appear to need directing what + to do. Fired by their example, we all worked our hardest; but they beat us + by half a day, mainly, I think, by dint of working nearly all the time + with scarce any interval for sleep. True, they were bound to take + advantage of low water when their huge prize was high and dry—to get + at him easily all round. Their method was of the simplest. With gaff-hooks + to haul back the pieces, and short-handled spades for cutting, they worked + in pairs, taking off square slabs of blubber about a hundredweight each. + As soon as a piece was cut off, the pair tackled on to it, dragging it up + to the pots, where the cooks hastily sliced it for boiling, interspersing + their labours with attention to the simmering cauldrons. + </p> + <p> + Their efforts realized twenty-four tuns of clear oil and spermaceti, of + which, according to bargain, we took twelve, the captain buying the other + twelve for L480, as previously arranged. This latter portion, however, was + his private venture, and not on ship's account, as he proposed selling it + at the Bluff, when we should call there on our way home. So that we were + still two whales short of our quantity. What a little space it did seem to + fill up! Our patience was sorely tested, when, during a whole week + following our last haul, we were unable to put to sea. In vain we tried + all the old amusements of fishing, rambling, bathing, etc.; they had lost + their "bite;" we wanted to get home. At last the longed-for shift of wind + came and set us free. We had hardly got well clear of the heads before we + saw a school of cachalots away on the horizon, some twelve miles off the + land to the southward. We made all possible sail in chase, but found, to + our dismay, that they were "making a passage," going at such a rate that + unless the wind freshened we could hardly hope to come up with them. + Fortunately, we had all day before us, having quitted our moorings soon + after daylight; and unless some unforeseen occurrence prevented us from + keeping up our rate of speed, the chances were that some time before dark + they would ease up and allow us to approach them. They were heading to the + westward, perhaps somewhat to the northward withal, to all appearance + making for the Solander. Hour after hour crawled by, while we still seemed + to preserve our relative distance, until we had skirted the southern shore + of the island and entered the area, of our old fishing ground. Two vessels + were cruising thereon, well to the northward, and we thought with glee of + the excitement that would seize them did they but gain an inkling of our + chase. + </p> + <p> + To our great delight, what we had hoped, but hardly dared expect, came to + pass. The school, as if with one impulse, hauled up on their course four + points, which made them head direct for the western verge of the Solander + ground, and—what was more important to us—made our coming up + with them a matter of a short time. We made the customary signals with the + upper sails to our friends to the northward, who recognized them + immediately, and bore down towards us. Not only had the school shifted + their course, but they had slackened speed; so that by four o'clock we + were able to lower for them at less than a mile distance. + </p> + <p> + It was an ideal whaling day—smooth water, a brisk breeze, a + brilliant sun, and plenty of whales. I was, as became my position, in the + rear when we went into action, and hardly hoped for an opportunity of + doing much but dance attendance upon my seniors. But fortune favoured me. + Before I had any idea whether the chief was fast or not, all other + considerations were driven clean out of my head by the unexpected + apparition of a colossal head, not a ship's length away, coming straight + for us, throwing up a swell in front of him like an ironclad. There was + barely time to sheer to one side, when the giant surged past us in a roar + of foaming sea, the flying flakes of which went right over us. Samuela was + "all there," though, and as the great beast passed he plunged a harpoon + into him with such force and vigour that the very socket entered the + blubber it needed all the strength I could muster, even with such an aid + as the nineteen-feet steer-oar, to swing the boat right round in his wake, + and prevent her being capsized by his headlong rush. + </p> + <p> + For, contrary to the usual practice, he paused not an instant, but rather + quickened his pace, as if spurred. Heavens, how he went! The mast and sail + had to come down—and they did, but I hardly know how. The spray was + blinding, coming in sheets over the bows, so that I could hardly see how + to steer in the monster's wake. He headed straight for the ship, which + lay-to almost motionless, filling me with apprehension lest he should in + his blind flight dash that immense mass of solid matter into her + broadside, and so put an inglorious end to all our hopes. What their + feelings on board must have been, I can only imagine, when they saw the + undeviating rush of the gigantic creature straight for them. On he went, + until I held my breath for the crash, when at the last moment, and within + a few feet of the ship's side, he dived, passing beneath the vessel. We + let go line immediately, as may be supposed; but although we had been + towing with quite fifty fathoms drift, our speed had been so great that we + came up against the old ship with a crash that very nearly finished us. He + did not run any further just then, but sounded for about two hundred and + fifty fathoms, rising to the surface in quite another mood. No more + running away from him. I cannot say I felt any of the fierce joy of battle + at the prospect before me. I had a profound respect for the fighting + qualities of the sperm whale, and, to tell the truth, would much rather + have run twenty miles behind him than have him turn to bay in his present + parlous humour. It was, perhaps, fortunate for me that there was a crowd + of witnesses, the other ships being now quite near enough to see all that + was going on, since the feeling that my doings were full in view of many + experts and veterans gave me a determination that I would not disgrace + either myself or my ship; besides, I felt that this would probably be our + last whale this voyage, if I did not fail, and that was no small thing to + look forward to. + </p> + <p> + All these things, so tedious in the telling, flashed through my mind, + while, with my eyes glued to the huge bulk of my antagonist or the hissing + vortices above him when he settled, I manoeuvred my pretty craft with all + the skill I could summon. For what seemed a period of about twenty minutes + we dodged him as he made the ugliest rushes at us. I had not yet changed + ends with Samuela, as customary, for I felt it imperative to keep the helm + while this game was being played. My trusty Kanaka, however, had a lance + ready, and I knew, if he only got the ghost of a chance, no man living + would or could make better use of it. + </p> + <p> + The whole affair was growing monotonous as well as extremely wearying. + Perhaps I was a little off my guard; at any rate, my heart almost leaped + into my mouth when just after an ugly rush past us, which I thought had + carried him to a safe distance, he stopped dead, lifted his flukes, and + brought them down edgeways with a vicious sweep that only just missed the + boat's gunwale and shore off the two oars on that side as if they had been + carrots. This serious disablement would certainly have led to disaster but + for Samuela. Prompt and vigorous, he seized the opportune moment when the + whale's side was presented just after the blow, sending his lance + quivering home all its length into the most vital part of the leviathan's + anatomy. Turning his happy face to me, he shouted exultingly, "How's dat + fer high?"—a bit of slang he had picked up, and his use of which + never failed to make me smile. "High" it was indeed—a master-stroke. + It must have pierced the creature's heart, for he immediately began to + spout blood in masses, and without another wound went into his flurry and + died. + </p> + <p> + Then came the reaction. I must have exerted myself beyond what I had any + idea of, for to Samuela I was obliged to delegate the task of + fluke-boring, while I rested a little. The ship was soon alongside, + though, and the whale secured. There was more yet to be done before we + could rest, in spite of our fatigue. The other boats had been so + successful that they had got two big fish, and what we were to do with + them was a problem not easily solvable. By dint of great exertion, we + managed to get another whale alongside, but were fain to come to some + arrangement with the ELIZA ADAMS, one of the ships that had been + unsuccessful, to take over our other whale on an agreement to render us + one-third of the product either in Port William or at home, if she should + not find us is the former place. + </p> + <p> + Behold us, then, in the gathering dusk with a whale on either side, every + stitch of canvas we could show set and drawing, straining every nerve to + get into the little port again, with the pleasant thought that we were + bringing with us all that was needed to complete our well-earned cargo. + Nobody wanted to go below; all hands felt that it was rest enough to hang + over the rail on either side and watch the black masses as they surged + through the gleaming sea. They represented so much to us. Very little was + said, but all hearts were filled with a deep content, a sense of a long + season of toil fitly crowned with complete success; nor was any depression + felt at the long, long stretch of stormy ocean between us and our home + port far away in the United States. That would doubtless come by-and-by, + when within less than a thousand miles of New Bedford; but at present all + sense of distance from home was lost in the overmastering thought that + soon it would be our only business to get there as quickly as possible, + without any avoidable loitering on the road. + </p> + <p> + We made an amazing disturbance in the darkness of the sea with our double + burthen, so much so that one of the coasting steamers changed her course a + bit to range up by our side in curiosity. We were scarcely going two and a + half knots, in spite of the row we made, and there was hardly room for + wonder at the steamboat captain's hail, "Want any assistance?" "No, thank + you," was promptly returned, although there was little doubt that all + hands would have subscribed towards a tow into port, in case the + treacherous weather should, after all, play us a dirty trick. But it + looked as if our troubles were over. No hitch occurred in our steady + progress, slow though it necessarily was, and as morning lifted the heavy + veil from the face of the land, we arrived at our pretty little haven, and + quietly came to an anchor. The CHANCE was in port wind-bound, looking, + like ourselves, pretty low in the water. No sooner did Paddy hear the news + of our arrival in such fine trim than he lowered his boat and hurried on + board of us, his face beaming with delight. Long and loud were his + congratulations, especially when he heard that we should now be full. + Moreover, he offered—nor would he take any denial—to come with + the whole of his crew and help us finish. + </p> + <p> + For the next four days and nights, during which the wind prevented the + CHANCE from leaving us, our old ship was a scene of wild revelry, that + ceased not through the twenty-four hours—revelry entirely unassisted + by strong waters, too, the natural ebullient gaiety of men who were free + from anxiety on any account whatever, rejoicing over the glad consummation + of more than two years toil, on the one hand; on the other, a splendid + sympathy in joy manifested by the satisfied crew under the genial command + of Captain Gilroy. With their cheerful help we made wonderful progress; + and when at last the wind hauled into a favourable quarter, and they were + compelled to leave us, the back of our work was broken, only the tedious + task of boiling being left to finish. + </p> + <p> + Never, I am sure, did two ships' companies part with more hearty good-will + than ours. As the ungainly old tub surged slowly out of the little + harbour, her worn-out and generally used-up appearance would have given a + Board of Trade Inspector the nightmare; the piratical looks of her crowd + were enough to frighten a shipload of passengers into fits; but to us who + had seen their performances in all weathers, and under all circumstances, + accidental externals had no weight in biassing our high opinion of them + all. Good-bye, old ship; farewell, jolly captain and sturdy crew; you will + never be forgotten any more by us while life lasts, and in far other and + more conventional scenes we shall regretfully remember the free-and-easy + time we shared with you. So she slipped away round the point and out of + our lives for ever. + </p> + <p> + By dint of steady hard work we managed to get the last of our greasy work + done in four days more, then faced with a will the job of stowing afresh + the upper tiers of casks, in view of our long journey home. The oil bought + by the skipper on private venture was left on deck, secured to the + lash-rail, for discharging at the Bluff, while our stock of water-casks + were carefully overhauled and recoopered prior to being stowed in their + places below. Of course, we had plenty of room in the hold, since no ship + would carry herself full of casks of oil; but I doubt whether, if we had + borne a "Plimsoll's mark," it would not have been totally submerged, so + deep did we lie. Wooding and watering came next—a different affair + to our casual exercises in those directions before. Provision had to be + made now for a possible four or five months' passage, during which we + hoped to avoid any further calls, so that the accumulation of firewood + alone was no small matter. We cleared the surrounding neighbourhood of + potatoes at a good price, those useful tubers being all they could supply + us with for sea-stock, much to their sorrow. + </p> + <p> + Then came the most unpleasant part of the whole business—for me. It + had been a part of the agreement made with the Kanakas that they were not + to be taken home with us, but returned to their island upon the + termination of the whaling. Now, the time had arrived when we were to + part, and I must confess that I felt very sorry to leave them. They had + proved docile, useful, and cheerful; while as for my harpooner and his + mate Polly, no man could have wished for smarter, better, or more faithful + helpers than they were. Strong as their desire was to return to their + homes, they too felt keenly the parting with us; for although they had + unavoidably suffered much from the inclemency of the weather—so + different from anything they had ever previously experienced—they + had been kindly treated, and had moved on precisely the same footing as + the rest of the crew. They wept like little children when the time arrived + for them to leave us, declaring that if ever we came to their island again + they would use all their endeavours to compel us to remain, assuring us + that we should want for nothing during the rest of our lives, if we would + but take up our abode with them. The one exception to all this cordiality + was Sam. His ideas were running in quite other channels. To regain his + lost status as ruler of the island, with all the opportunities for + indulging his animal propensities which such a position gave him, was the + problem he had set himself, and to the realization of these wishes he had + determinedly bent all his efforts. + </p> + <p> + Thus he firmly declined the offer of a passage back in the ELIZA ADAMS, + which our captain secured for all the Kanakas; preferring to be landed at + the Bluff, with the goodly sum of money to which he was entitled, saying + that he had important business to transact in Sydney before he returned. + This business, he privately informed me, was the procuring of arms and + ammunition wherewith to make war upon his rival. Of course we could not + prevent him, although it did seem an abominable thing to let loose the + spirit of slaughter among those light-hearted natives just to satisfy the + ambition of an unscrupulous negro. But, as I have before noticed, from + information received many years after I learned that he had been + successful in his efforts, though at what cost to life I do not know. + </p> + <p> + So our dusky friends left us, with a good word from every one, and went on + board the ELIZA ADAMS, whose captain promised to land them at Futuna, + within six months. How he carried out his promise, I do not know; but, for + the poor fellows' sakes, I trust he kept his word. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0028" id="link2HCH0028"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + CHAPTER XXVIII. TO THE BLUFF, AND HOME + </h2> + <p> + And now the cruise of the good old whaling barque CACHALOT, as far as + whaling is concerned, comes to an end. For all practical purposes she + becomes a humdrum merchantman in haste to reach her final port of + discharge, and get rid of her cargo. No more will she loiter and pry + around anything and everything, from an island to a balk of drift-wood, + that comes in her way, knowing not the meaning of "waste of time." The + "crow's-nests" are dismantled, taut topgallant-masts sent up, and royal + yards crossed. As soon as we get to sea we shall turn-to and heave that + ancient fabric of bricks and mortar—always a queer-looking erection + to be cumbering a ship's deck—piecemeal over the side. It has long + been shaky and weather-beaten; it will soon obstruct our movements no + more. Our rigging has all been set up and tarred down; we have painted + hull and spars, and scraped wherever the wood-work is kept bright. All + gear belonging to whaling has been taken out of the boats, carefully + cleaned, oiled, and stowed away for a "full due." Two of the boats have + been taken inboard, and stowed bottom-up upon the gallows aft, as any + other merchantman carries them. At last, our multifarious preparations + completed, we ride ready for sea. + </p> + <p> + It was quite in accordance with the fitness of things that, when all + things were now ready for our departure, there should come a change of + wind that threatened to hold us prisoners for some days longer. But our + "old man" was hard to beat, and he reckoned that, if we could only get out + of the "pond," he would work her across to the Bluff somehow or other. So + we ran out a kedge with a couple of lines to it, and warped her out of the + weather side of the harbour, finding, when at last we got her clear, that + she would lay her course across the Straits to clear Ruapuke—nearly; + but the current had to be reckoned with. Before we reached that + obstructing island we were down at the eastern end of it, and obliged to + anchor promptly to save ourselves from being swept down the coast many + miles to leeward of our port. + </p> + <p> + But the skipper was quite equal to the occasion. Ordering his boat, he + sped away into Bluff harbour, only a matter of six or seven miles, + returning soon with a tug, who for a pound or two placed us, without + further trouble, alongside the wharf, amongst some magnificent clipper + ships of Messrs. Henderson's and the New Zealand Shipping Co.'s, who + seemed to turn up their splendid noses at the squat, dumpy, antiquated old + serving-mallet that dared to mingle with so august a crowd. There had been + a time, not so very far back, when I should have shared their apparent + contempt for our homely old tub; but my voyage had taught me, among other + things, that, as far as true comfort went at sea, not a + "three-skysail-yarder" among them could compare with the CACHALOT. And I + was extremely glad that my passage round the Horn was to be in my own + ship, and not in a long, snaky tank that, in the language of the sailor, + takes a header when she gets outside the harbour, and only comes up two or + three times to blow before she gets home. + </p> + <p> + Our only reason for visiting this place being to discharge Captain Count's + oil, and procure a sea-stock of salt provisions and hard bread, these + duties were taken in hand at once. The skipper sold his venture of oil to + good advantage, being so pleased with his success that he gave us all a + good feed on the strength of it. + </p> + <p> + As soon as the stores were embarked and everything ready for sea, leave + was given to all hands for twenty-four hours, upon the distinct + understanding that the privilege was not to be abused, to the detriment of + everybody, who, as might be supposed, were anxious to start for home. In + order that there might be less temptation to go on the spree generally, a + grand picnic was organized to a beautiful valley some distance from the + town. Carriages were chartered, an enormous quantity of eatables and + drinkables provided, and away we went, a regular wayzgoose or bean-feast + party. It was such a huge success, that I have ever since wondered why + such outings cannot become usual among sailors on liberty abroad, instead + of the senseless, vicious waste of health, time, and hard-earned wages + which is general. But I must not let myself loose upon this theme again, + or we shall never get to sea. + </p> + <p> + Liberty over without any trouble arising, and all hands comfortably on + board again, the news ran round that we were to sail in the morning. So, + after a good night's rest, we cast loose from the wharf, and, with a + little assistance from the same useful tug that brought us in, got fairly + out to sea. All sail was set to a strong, steady north-wester, and with + yards canted the least bit in the world on the port tack, so that every + stitch was drawing, we began our long easterly stretch to the Horn, + homeward bound at last. + </p> + <p> + Favoured by wind and weather, we made an average run of one hundred and + eighty miles per day for many days, paying no attention to "great circle + sailing," since in such a slow ship the net gain to be secured by going to + a high latitude was very small, but dodging comfortably along on about the + parallel of 48deg. S., until it became necessary to draw down towards + "Cape Stiff," as that dreaded extremity of South America, Cape Horn, is + familiarly called by seamen. As we did so, icebergs became numerous, at + one time over seventy being in sight at once. Some of them were of immense + size—one, indeed, that could hardly be fitly described as an + iceberg, but more properly an ice-field, with many bergs rising out of it, + being over sixty miles long, while some of its towering peaks were + estimated at from five hundred to one thousand feet high. Happily, the + weather kept clear; for icebergs and fog make a combination truly + appalling to the sailor, especially if there be much wind blowing. + </p> + <p> + Needless, perhaps, to say, our look-out was of the best, for all hands had + a double interest in the safety of the ship. Perhaps it may be thought + that any man would have so much regard for the safety of his life that he + would not think of sleeping on his look-out; but I can assure my readers + that, strange as it may seem, such is not the case, I have known men who + could never be trusted not to go to sleep, no matter how great the danger. + This is so well recognized in merchant ships that nearly every officer + acts as if there was no look-out at all forward, in case his supposed + watchman should be having a surreptitious doze. + </p> + <p> + Stronger and stronger blew the brave west wind; dirtier, gloomier, and + colder grew the weather, until, reduced to two topsails and a reefed + foresail, we were scudding dead before the gale for all we were worth. + This was a novel experience for us in the CACHALOT, and I was curious to + see how she would behave. To my mind, the supreme test of a ship's + sea-kindliness is the length of time she will scud before a gale without + "pooping" a sea, or taking such heavy water on board over her sides as to + do serious damage. Some ships are very dangerous to run at all. + Endeavouring to make the best use of the gale which is blowing in the + right direction, the captain "hangs on" to all the sail he can carry, + until she ships a mighty mass of water over all, so that the decks are + filled with wreckage, or, worse still, "poops" a sea. The latter + experience is a terrible one, even to a trained seaman. You are running + before the wind and waves, sometimes deep in the valley between two liquid + mountains, sometimes high on the rolling ridge of one. You watch anxiously + the speed of the sea, trying to decide whether it or you are going the + faster, when suddenly there seems to be a hush, almost a lull, in the + uproar. You look astern, and see a wall of water rising majestically + higher and higher, at the same time drawing nearer and nearer. + Instinctively you clutch at something firm, and hold your breath. Then + that mighty green barrier leans forward, the ship's stern seems to settle + at the same time, and, with a thundering noise as of an avalanche + descending, it overwhelms you. Of course the ship's way is deadened; she + seems like a living thing overburdened, yet struggling to be free; and + well it is for all hands if the helmsman be able to keep his post and his + wits about him. For if he be hurt, or have fled from the terrible wave, it + is an even chance that she "broaches to;" that is to say, swings round + broadside on to the next great wave that follows relentlessly its + predecessor. Then, helpless and vulnerable, she will most probably be + smashed up and founder. Many a good ship has gone with all hands to the + bottom just as simply as that. + </p> + <p> + In order to avoid such a catastrophe, the proper procedure is to + "heave-to" before the sea has attained so dangerous a height; but even a + landsman can understand how reluctant a shipmaster may be to lie like a + log just drifting, while a more seaworthy ship is flying along at the rate + of, perhaps, three hundred miles a day in the desired direction. Ships of + the CACHALOT's bluff build are peculiarly liable to delays of this kind + from their slowness, which, if allied to want of buoyancy, makes it + necessary to heave-to in good time, if safety is at all cared for. + </p> + <p> + To my great astonishment and delight, however, our grand old vessel nobly + sustained her character, running on without shipping any heavy water, + although sometimes hedged in on either side by gigantic waves that seemed + to tower as high as her lowermast heads. Again and again we were caught up + and passed by the splendid homeward-bound colonial packets, some of them + carrying an appalling press of canvas, under which the long, snaky hulls, + often overwhelmed by the foaming seas, were hardly visible, so + insignificant did they appear by comparison with the snowy mountain of + swelling sail above. + </p> + <p> + So we fared eastward and ever southward, until in due time up rose the + gloomy, storm-scarred crags of the Diego Ramirez rocks, grim outposts of + the New World. To us, though, they bore no terrific aspect; for were they + not the turning-point from which we could steer north, our head pointed + for home? Immediately upon rounding them we hauled up four points, and, + with daily improving weather climbed the southern slopes towards the line. + </p> + <p> + Very humdrum and quiet the life appeared to all of us, and had it not been + for the saving routine of work by day, and watch by night, kept up with + all our old discipline, the tedium would have been insupportable after the + incessant excitement of expectation to which we had so long been + accustomed. Still, our passage was by no means a bad one for a slow ship, + being favoured by more than ordinarily steadfast winds until we reached + the zone of the south-east trades again, where the usual mild, settled + wind and lovely weather awaited us. On and on, unhasting but unresting, we + stolidly jogged, by great good fortune slipping across the "doldrums"—that + hateful belt of calms about the line so much detested by all sailor-men—without + losing the south-east wind. + </p> + <p> + Not one day of calm delayed us, the north-east trades meeting us like a + friend sent to extend a welcoming hand and lend us his assistance on our + homeward way. They hung so far to the eastward, too—sometimes + actually at east-by-north-that we were able to steer north on the + starboard tack—a slice of luck not usually met with. This "slant" + put all hands in the best of humours, and already the date of our arrival + was settled by the more sanguine ones, as well as excellent plans made for + spending the long voyage's earnings. + </p> + <p> + For my part, having been, in spite of my youth, accustomed to so many + cruel disappointments and slips between the cup and lip, I was afraid to + dwell too hopefully upon the pleasures (?) of getting ashore. And after + the incident which I have now to record occurred, I felt more nervous + distrust than I had ever felt before at sea since first I began to + experience the many vicissitudes of a sailor's life. + </p> + <p> + We had reached the northern verge of the tropics in a very short time, + owing to the favourable cant in the usual direction of the north-east + trades before noted, and had been met with north-westerly winds and thick, + dirty weather, which was somewhat unusual in so low a latitude. Our + look-outs redoubled their vigilance, one being posted on each bow always + at night, and relieved every hour, as we were so well manned. We were now + on the port tack, of course, heading about north-east-by-north, and right + in the track of outward-hound vessels from both the United Kingdom and the + States. One morning, about three a.m.—that fateful time in the + middle watch when more collisions occur than at any other—suddenly + out of the darkness a huge ship seemed to leap right at us. She must have + come up in a squall, of which there were many about, at the rate of some + twelve knots an hour, having a fair wind, and every rag of sail set. Not a + gleam of light was visible anywhere on board of her, and, to judge from + all appearances, the only man awake on board was the helmsman. + </p> + <p> + We, being "on the wind, close-hauled," were bound by the "rule of the road + at sea" to keep our course when meeting a ship running free. The penalty + for doing ANYTHING under such circumstances is a severe one. First of all, + you do not KNOW that the other ship's crew are asleep or negligent, even + though they carry no lights; for, by a truly infernal parsimony, many + vessels actually do not carry oil enough to keep their lamps burning all + the voyage, and must therefore economize in this unspeakably dangerous + fashion. And it may be that just as you alter your course, daring no + longer to hold on, and, as you have every reason to believe, be run down, + the other man alters his. Then a few breathless moments ensue, an awful + crash, and the two vessels tear each other to pieces, spilling the life + that they contain over the hungry sea. Even if you escape, YOU are to + blame for not keeping your course, unless it can be proved that you were + not seen by the running ship. + </p> + <p> + Well, we kept our course until, I verily believe, another plunge would + have cut us sheer in two halves. At the last moment our helm was put hard + down, bringing our vessel right up into the wind at the same moment as the + helmsman on board the other vessel caught sight of us, and instinctively + put his helm down too. The two vessels swung side by side amidst a + thunderous roar of flapping canvas, crackling of fallen spars, and rending + of wood as the shrouds tore away the bulwarks. All our davits were ripped + from the starboard side, and most of our bulwarks too; but, strangely + enough, we lost no spars nor any important gear. There seemed to be a good + deal of damage done on board the stranger, where, in addition, all hands + were at their wits' end. Well they might be, aroused from so criminal a + sleep as theirs. Fortunately, the third mate had powerful bull's-eye + lantern, which in his watch on deck he always kept lighted. Turning it on + the stern of the delinquent vessel as she slowly forged clear of us, we + easily read her name, which, for shame's sake as well as for prudential + reasons, I withhold. She was a London ship, and a pretty fine time of it I + had for the next day or two, listening to the jeers and sarcasms on the + quality of British seamanship. + </p> + <p> + Repairing damages kept us busy for a few days; but whatever of + thankfulness we were capable of feeling was aroused by this hairbreadth + escape from death through the wicked neglect of the most elementary duty + of any man calling himself a seaman. + </p> + <p> + Then a period of regular Western-ocean weather set in. It was early spring + in the third year since our departure from this part of the world, and the + north-easter blew with bitter severity, making even the seasoned old + captain wince again; but, as he jovially said, "it smelt homey, n' HE + warn't a-goin' ter growl at thet." Neither were any of us, although we + could have done with less of a sharp edge to it all the same. + </p> + <p> + Steadily we battled northward, until at last, with full hearts, we made + Cape Navesink ("Ole Neversunk"), and on the next day took a tug and towed + into New Bedford with every flag we could scare up flying, the centre of + admiration—a full whale-ship safe back from her long, long fishing + round the world. + </p> + <p> + My pleasant talk is done. I wish from my heart it were better performed; + but, having done my best, I must perforce be content. If in some small + measure I have been able to make you, my friendly reader, acquainted with + a little-known or appreciated side of life, and in any wise made that life + a real matter to you, giving you a fresh interest in the toilers of the + sea, my work has not been wholly in vain. And with that fond hope I give + you the sailor's valedictory— + </p> + <p> + SO LONG! <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1356 ***</div> +</body> +</html> |