diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/13518-0.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/13518-0.txt | 17063 |
1 files changed, 17063 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/old/13518-0.txt b/old/13518-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ed204e --- /dev/null +++ b/old/13518-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,17063 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Journey to the Polar Sea, by John Franklin + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at +www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you +will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before +using this eBook. + +Title: The Journey to the Polar Sea + +Author: John Franklin + +Release Date: September 24, 2004 [eBook #13518] +[Most recently updated: May 31, 2023] + +Language: English + +Produced by: Sue Asscher + +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA *** + + + + +The Journey to the Polar Sea + +by SIR JOHN FRANKLIN + +INTRODUCTION BY CAPTAIN R.F. SCOTT + + + + +JOHN FRANKLIN, born in 1786. Many naval experiences, including +Trafalgar, before heading an expedition across northern Canada in 1819. +Elected F.R.S. and knighted after a second expedition. +Lieutenant-Governor of Van Diemen’s Land, 1836 to 1843. Last +expedition, 1845, was lost, and Franklin died in 1847 near the Arctic. +Subsequent investigations have established him as the discoverer of the +North-West Passage. + + + + +THE JOURNEY +TO THE POLAR SEA. + +SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +In days of hurried action I have been astonished at the depth of +interest which a re-perusal of this wonderful old narrative has held +for me. Wonderful it is in its simplicity and its revelation of the +simplicity of character and faith of the man who wrote it. It is old +only by comparison—scarcely ninety years have elapsed since the +adventures it described were enacted—yet such a period has never held a +fuller measure of change or more speedily passed current events into +the limbo of the past. + +Nothing could more vividly impress this change than the narrative +itself. We are told that Mr. Beck missed his ship at Yarmouth but +succeeded in rejoining her at Stromness, having travelled “nine +successive days almost without rest.” What a vision of post-chaises, +sweating horses and heavy roads is suggested! And if the contrast with +present-day conditions in our own Islands is great, how much greater is +it in that vast Dominion through which Franklin directed his pioneer +footsteps. As he followed the lonely trails to Fort Cumberland, or +sailed along the solitary shores of Lake Winnipeg, how little could he +guess that in less than a century a hundred thousand inhabitants would +dwell by the shore of the great lake, or that its primeval regions +would one day provide largely the bread of his countrymen. + +There civilisation has followed fast indeed, and ever it presses +forward on the tracks of the pioneer. But even today if we follow +Franklin we must come again to the wild—to the great Barren Lands and +to the ice-bound limit of a Continent—regions where for ninety years +season has succeeded season without change—where few have passed since +his day and Nature alone holds sway. For those who would know what IS +as well as for those who would know what _has been_, this narrative +still holds its original interest; all must appreciate that it records +the work of a great traveller and a gallant man whose fame deserves to +live. + +R.F. SCOTT. + +SIR JOHN FRANKLIN’S VOYAGES INTO THE POLAR SEAS: + +F.W. Beechey: Voyage of Discovery toward the North Pole in H.M. Ships +_Dorothea_ and _Trent_ (with summary of earlier attempts to reach the +Pacific by the North) 1818. + +Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years +1819 to 1822, by John Franklin, 1823, 1824. + +Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea in the +Years 1825 to 1827, by John Franklin, 1828. + +PUBLICATIONS CONCERNING THE SEARCH FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN: + + +Report of the Committee appointed by the Lords Commissioners of the +Admiralty to inquire into and report on the Recent Arctic Expeditions +in search of Sir John Franklin, 1851. + +Papers relative to the Recent Arctic Expeditions in search of Sir John +Franklin and the Crews of H.M.S. _Erebus_ and _Terror_, 1854. + +Further Papers relative to the Search, 1855. + +R. King, The Franklin Expedition from First to Last, 1855. + +R. Huish, Recent Expeditions to the Polar Regions, including all the +Voyages in search of Sir J. Franklin, 1855. + +E.K. Kane, Arctic Explorations, the Second Grinnell Expedition in +search of Sir John Franklin, 1856. + +MacClintock, The Voyage of the _Fox_ in the Arctic Seas. A narrative of +the discovery of the fate of Sir John Franklin, 1859, 1861, 1869, 1908. + +Sir J. Leslie, Discovery and Adventure in the Polar Seas, with a +Narrative of the Recent Expeditions in search of Sir John Franklin, +1860. + +J.A. Browne, The North-West Passage, and the Fate of Sir John Franklin, +1860. + +Sir Allen M. Young, The Search for Sir John Franklin, etc., 1875. + +Schwatka’s Search, Sledging in the Arctic in search of Franklin +Records, 1881. + +The Search for Franklin. + +American Expedition under Lieutenant Schwatka, 1878 to 1880, 1882. + +J.H. Skewes, The True Secret of the Discovery of the Fate of Sir John +Franklin, 1889. + +LIFE: + + +S. Osborn, Career, Last Voyage and Fate of Sir John Franklin (_Once a +Week_, 1859) 1860. + +A Brave Man and his Belongings, by a Niece of the first Mrs. Franklin, +1874. + +A.H. Beesley, Sir John Franklin; the Narrative of his Life (The New +Plutarch) 1881. + +A.H. Markham (The World’s Great Explorers) 1891. + +G.B. Smith, Sir John Franklin and the Romance of the North-West +Passage, 1895. + +H.D. Traill, 1896. + +H. Harbour, Arctic Explorers, 1904. + +E.C. Buley, Into the Polar Seas; The Story of Sir J. Franklin, etc., +1909. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +INTRODUCTION. + + + + +CHAPTER 1. +Departure from England. +Transactions at Stromness. +Enter Davis Straits. +Perilous situation on the shore of Resolution Island. +Land on the coast of Labrador. +Esquimaux of Savage Islands. +York Factory. +Preparations for the Journey into the Interior. + +CHAPTER 2. +Passage up Hayes, Steel and Hill Rivers. +Cross Swampy Lake. +Jack River. +Knee Lake and Magnetic Islet. +Trout River. +Holy Lake. +Weepinapannis River. +Windy Lake. +White Fall Lake and River. +Echemamis and Sea Rivers. +Play Green Lakes. +Lake Winnipeg. +River Saskatchewan. +Cross, Cedar and Pine Island Lakes. +Cumberland House. + +CHAPTER 3. +Dr. Richardson’s residence at Cumberland House. +His account of the Cree Indians. + +CHAPTER 4. +Leave Cumberland House. +Mode of Travelling in Winter. +Arrival at Carlton House. +Stone Indians. +Visit to a Buffalo Pound. +Goitres. +Departure from Carlton House. +Isle a la Crosse. +Arrival at Fort Chipewyan. + +CHAPTER 5. +Transactions at Fort Chipewyan. +Arrival of Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood. +Preparations for our Journey to the Northward. + +CHAPTER 6. +Mr. Hood’s Journey to the Basquiau Hill. +Sojourns with an Indian Party. +His Journey to Chipewyan. + +CHAPTER 7. +Departure from Chipewyan. +Difficulties of the various Navigations of the Rivers and Lakes, and of +the Portages. +Slave Lake and Fort Providence. +Scarcity of Provisions, and Discontent of the Canadian Voyagers. +Difficulties with regard to the Indian Guides. +Refusal to proceed. +Visit of Observation to the upper part of Copper-Mine River. +Return to the winter quarters of Fort Enterprise. + +CHAPTER 8. +Transactions at Fort Enterprise. +Mr. Back’s Narrative of his Journey to Chipewyan, and Return. + +CHAPTER 9. +Continuation of Proceedings at Fort Enterprise. +Some Account of the Copper Indians. +Preparations for the Journey to the Northward. + +CHAPTER 10. +Departure from Fort Enterprise. +Navigation of the Copper-Mine River. +Visit to the Copper Mountain. +Interview with the Esquimaux. +Departure of the Indian Hunters. +Arrangements made with them for our Return. + +CHAPTER 11. +Navigation of the Polar Sea, in two Canoes, as far as Cape Turnagain, +to the Eastward, a distance exceeding Five Hundred and Fifty Miles. +Observations on the probability of a North-West Passage. + +CHAPTER 12. +Journey across the barren grounds. +Difficulty and delay in crossing Copper-Mine River. +Melancholy and Fatal Results thereof. +Extreme Misery of the whole Party. +Murder of Mr. Hood. +Death of several of the Canadians. +Desolate State of Fort Enterprise. +Distress suffered at that Place. +Dr. Richardson’s Narrative. +Mr. Back’s Narrative. +Conclusion. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +His Majesty’s Government having determined upon sending an Expedition +from the Shores of Hudson’s Bay by land to explore the Northern Coast +of America from the Mouth of the Copper-Mine River to the eastward, I +had the honour to be appointed to this service by Earl Bathurst, on the +recommendation of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty; who at the +same time nominated Doctor John Richardson, a Surgeon in the Royal +Navy, Mr. George Back, and Mr. Robert Hood, two Admiralty Midshipmen, +to be joined with me in the enterprise. My instructions in substance +informed me that the main object of the Expedition was that of +determining the latitudes and longitudes of the Northern Coast of North +America, and the trending of that Coast from the Mouth of the +Copper-Mine River to the eastern extremity of that Continent; that it +was left for me to determine according to circumstances whether it +might be most advisable to proceed at once directly to the northward +till I arrived at the sea-coast, and thence westerly towards the +Copper-Mine River; or advance in the first instance by the usual route +to the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, and from thence easterly till I +should arrive at the eastern extremity of that Continent; that in the +adoption of either of these plans I was to be guided by the advice and +information which I should receive from the wintering servants of the +Hudson’s Bay Company, who would be instructed by their employers to +cooperate cordially in the prosecution of the objects of the +Expedition, and who would provide me with the necessary escort of +Indians to act as guides, interpreters, game-killers, etc.; and also +with such articles of clothing, ammunition, snowshoes, presents, etc., +as should be deemed expedient for me to take. That as another principal +object of the Expedition was to amend the very defective geography of +the northern part of North America I was to be very careful to +ascertain correctly the latitude and longitude of every remarkable spot +upon our route, and of all the bays, harbours, rivers, headlands, etc., +that might occur along the Northern Shore of North America. That in +proceeding along the coast I should erect conspicuous marks at places +where ships might enter, or to which a boat could be sent; and to +deposit information as to the nature of the coast for the use of +Lieutenant Parry. That in the journal of our route I should register +the temperature of the air at least three times in every twenty-four +hours; together with the state of the wind and weather and any other +meteorological phenomena. That I should not neglect any opportunity of +observing and noting down the dip and variation of the magnetic needle, +and the intensity of the magnetic force; and should take particular +notice whether any, and what kind or degree of, influence the Aurora +Borealis might appear to exert on the magnetic needle; and to notice +whether that phenomenon were attended with any noise; and to make any +other observations that might be likely to tend to the further +development of its cause and the laws by which it is governed. + +Mr. Back and Mr. Hood were to assist me in all the observations +above-mentioned, and to make drawings of the land, of the natives, and +of the various objects of Natural History; and particularly of such as +Dr. Richardson who, to his professional duties was to add that of +naturalist, might consider to be most curious and interesting. + +I was instructed, on my arrival at or near the Mouth of the Copper-Mine +River, to make every inquiry as to the situation of the spot whence +native copper had been brought down by the Indians to the Hudson’s Bay +establishment, and to visit and explore the place in question; in order +that Dr. Richardson might be enabled to make such observations as might +be useful in a commercial point of view, or interesting to the science +of mineralogy. + +From Joseph Berens, Esquire, the Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, +and the gentlemen of the Committee I received all kinds of assistance +and information, communicated in the most friendly manner previous to +my leaving England; and I had the gratification of perusing the orders +to their agents and servants in North America, containing the fullest +directions to promote by every means the progress of the Expedition. I +most cheerfully avail myself of this opportunity of expressing my +gratitude to these gentlemen for their personal kindness to myself and +the other officers, as well as for the benefits rendered by them to the +Expedition; and the same sentiment is due towards the Gentlemen of the +North-West Company, both in England and America, more particularly to +Simon McGillivray, Esquire, of London, from whom I received much useful +information and cordial letters of recommendation to the partners and +agents of that Company resident on our line of route. + +A short time before I left London I had the pleasure and advantage of +an interview with the late Sir Alexander Mackenzie who was one of the +two persons who had visited the coast we were to explore. He afforded +me, in the most open and kind manner, much valuable information and +advice. + +The provisions, instruments, and other articles, of which I had +furnished a list by direction of the Lords Commissioners of the +Admiralty, were embarked on board the Hudson’s Bay Company’s ship +_Prince of Wales_, appointed by the Committee to convey the Expedition +to York Factory, their principal establishment in Hudson’s Bay. + +It will be seen in the course of the Narrative how much reason I had to +be satisfied with, and how great my obligations are to, all the +gentlemen who were associated with me in the Expedition, whose +kindness, good conduct, and cordial cooperation have made an impression +which can never be effaced from my mind. The unfortunate death of Mr. +Hood is the only drawback which I feel from the otherwise unalloyed +pleasure of reflecting on that cordial unanimity which at all times +prevailed among us in the days of sunshine, and in those of sickness +and sorrow. + +To Dr. Richardson in particular the exclusive merit is due of whatever +collections and observations have been made in the department of +Natural History; and I am indebted to him in no small degree for his +friendly advice and assistance in the preparation of the present +narrative. + +The charts and drawings were made by Lieutenant Back and the late +Lieutenant Hood. Both these gentlemen cheerfully and ably assisted me +in making the observations and in the daily conduct of the Expedition. +The observations made by Mr. Hood on the various phenomena presented by +the Aurora Borealis[1] will it is presumed present to the reader some +new facts connected with this meteor. Mr. Back was mostly prevented +from turning his attention to objects of science by the many severe +duties which were required of him and which obliged him to travel +almost constantly every winter that we passed in America; to his +personal exertions, indeed, our final safety is mainly to be +attributed. And here I must be permitted to pay the tribute due to the +fidelity, exertion and uniform good conduct in the most trying +situations of John Hepburn, an English seaman and our only attendant, +to whom in the latter part of our journey we owe, under Divine +Providence, the preservation of the lives of some of the party. + + [1] Given in the Appendix to the Quarto Edition. + + +I ought perhaps to crave the reader’s indulgence towards the defective +style of this work, which I trust will not be refused when it is +considered that mine has been a life of constant employment in my +profession from a very early age. I have been prompted to venture upon +the task solely by an imperious sense of duty when called upon to +undertake it. + +In the ensuing Narrative the notices of the moral condition of the +Indians as influenced by the conduct of the traders towards them refer +entirely to the state in which it existed during our progress through +the country; but lest I should have been mistaken respecting the views +of the Hudson’s Bay Company on these points I gladly embrace the +opportunity which a Second Edition affords me of stating that the +junction of the two Companies has enabled the Directors to put in +practice the improvements which I have reason to believe they had long +contemplated. They have provided for religious instruction by the +appointment of two Clergymen of the established church under whose +direction schoolmasters and mistresses are to be placed at such +stations as afford the means of support for the establishment of +schools. The offspring of the voyagers and labourers are to be educated +chiefly at the expense of the Company; and such of the Indian children +as their parents may wish to send to these schools are to be +instructed, clothed, and maintained at the expense of the Church +Missionary Society which has already allotted a considerable sum for +these purposes and has also sent out teachers who are to act under the +superintendence of the Reverend Mr. West, the principal chaplain of the +Company. + +We had the pleasure of meeting this gentleman at York Factory, and +witnessed with peculiar delight that great benefit which already marked +his zealous and judicious conduct. Many of the traders and of the +servants of the Company had been induced to marry the women with whom +they had cohabited; a material step towards the improvement of the +females in that country. + +Mr. West, under the sanction of the Directors, has also promoted a +subscription for the distribution of the Bible in every part of the +country where the Company’s Fur Trade has extended, and which has met +with very general support from the resident chief factors, traders, and +clerks. The Directors of the Company are continuing to reduce the +distribution of spirits gradually among the Indians, as well as towards +their own servants, with a view to the entire disuse of them as soon as +this most desirable object can be accomplished. They have likewise +issued orders for the cultivation of the ground at each of the posts, +by which means the residents will be far less exposed to famine +whenever, through the scarcity of animals, the sickness of the Indians, +or any other cause, their supply of meat may fail. + +It is to be hoped that intentions, so dear to every humane and pious +mind, will, through the blessing of God, meet with the utmost success. + + + + +FRANKLIN’S JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA. + + + + +CHAPTER 1. + +DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. TRANSACTIONS AT STROMNESS. ENTER DAVIS STRAITS. +PERILOUS SITUATION ON THE SHORE OF RESOLUTION ISLAND. LAND ON THE COAST +OF LABRADOR. ESQUIMAUX OF SAVAGE ISLANDS. YORK FACTORY. PREPARATIONS +FOR THE JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR. + + +DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND. + + +May, 1819. + +On Sunday the 23rd of May the whole of our party embarked at Gravesend +on board the ship _Prince of Wales_, belonging to the Hudson’s Bay +Company, just as she was in the act of getting under weigh with her +consorts the _Eddystone_ and _Wear_. The wind being unfavourable on the +ebb tide being finished, the vessels were again anchored; but they +weighed in the night and beat down as far as the Warp, where they were +detained two days by a strong easterly wind. + +Having learned from some of the passengers, who were the trading +Officers of the Company, that the arrival of the ships at either of the +establishments in Hudson’s Bay gives full occupation to all the boatmen +in their service, who are required to convey the necessary stores to +the different posts in the interior; that it was very probable a +sufficient number of men might not be procured from this indispensable +duty; and, considering that any delay at York Factory would materially +retard our future operations, I wrote to the Under Secretary of State +requesting his permission to provide a few well-qualified steersmen and +bowmen at Stromness to assist our proceedings in the former part of our +journey into the interior. + +May 30. + +The easterly wind, which had retarded the ship’s progress so much that +we had only reached Hollesley Bay after a week’s beating about, changed +to West-South-West soon after that anchorage had been gained. The +vessels instantly weighed and, by carrying all sail, arrived in +Yarmouth Roads at seven P.M.; the pilots were landed and our course was +continued through the anchorage. At midnight the wind became light and +variable and gradually drew round to the North-West and, as the sky +indicated unsettled weather and the wind blew from an unfavourable +quarter for ships upon that coast, the commander bore up again for +Yarmouth and anchored at eight A.M. + +This return afforded us at least the opportunity of comparing the +longitude of Yarmouth church, as shown by our chronometers, with its +position as laid down by the Ordnance Trigonometrical Survey; and it +was satisfactory to find, from the small difference in their results, +that the chronometers had not experienced any alteration in their rates +in consequence of their being changed from a horizontal position in a +room to that of being carried in the pocket. + +An untoward circumstance while at this anchorage cast a damp on our +party at this early period of the voyage. Emboldened by the decided +appearance of the North-West sky, several of our officers and +passengers ventured on shore for a few hours; but we had not been long +in the town before the wind changed suddenly to South-East, which +caused instant motion in the large fleet collected at this anchorage. +The commander of our ship intimated his intention of proceeding to sea +by firing guns; and the passengers hastened to embark. Mr. Back however +had unfortunately gone upon some business to a house two or three miles +distant from Yarmouth along the line of the coast; from whence he +expected to be able to observe the first symptoms of moving which the +vessels might make. By some accident however he did not make his +appearance before the captain was obliged to make sail that he might +get the ships through the intricate passage of the Cockle Gat before it +was dark. Fortunately, through the kindness of Lieutenant Hewit of the +_Protector_, I was enabled to convey a note to our missing companion, +desiring him to proceed immediately by the coach to the Pentland Firth, +and from thence across the passage to Stromness, which appeared to be +the only way of proceeding by which he could rejoin the party. + +TRANSACTIONS AT STROMNESS. + + +June 3. + +The wind continuing favourable after leaving Yarmouth, about nine this +morning we passed the rugged and bold projecting rock termed Johnny +Groat’s house and soon afterwards Duncansby Head, and then entered the +Pentland Firth. A pilot came from the main shore of Scotland and +steered the ship in safety between the different islands to the outer +anchorage at Stromness, though the atmosphere was too dense for +distinguishing any of the objects on the land. Almost immediately after +the ship had anchored the wind changed to north-west, the rain ceased +and a sight was then first obtained of the neighbouring islands and of +the town of Stromness, the latter of which from this point of view and +at this distance presented a pleasing appearance. + +Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson’s Bay Company at this place, +undertook to communicate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the different +parishes by a notice on the church door, which he said was the surest +and most direct channel for the conveyance of information to the lower +classes in these islands as they invariably attend divine service there +every Sunday. He informed me that the kind of men we were in want of +would be difficult to procure on account of the very increased demand +for boatmen for the herring fishery which had recently been established +on the shores of these islands; that last year sixty boats and four +hundred men only were employed in this service whereas now there were +three hundred boats and twelve hundred men engaged; and that owing to +this unexpected addition to the fishery he had been unable to provide +the number of persons required for the service of the Hudson’s Bay +Company. This was unpleasant information as it increased the +apprehension of our being detained at York Factory the whole winter if +boatmen were not taken from hence. I could not therefore hesitate in +requesting Mr. Geddes to engage eight or ten men well adapted for our +service on such terms as he could procure them, though the Secretary of +State’s permission had not yet reached me. + +Next to a supply of boatmen our attention was directed towards the +procuring of a house conveniently situated for trying the instruments +and examining the rates of the chronometers. Mr. Geddes kindly offered +one of his which, though in an unfinished state, was readily accepted, +being well situated for our purpose as it was placed on an eminence, +had a southern aspect, and was at a sufficient distance from the town +to secure us from frequent interruption. Another advantage was its +proximity to the Manse, the residence of the Reverend Mr. Clouston, the +worthy and highly respected minister of Stromness whose kind +hospitality and the polite attention of his family the party +experienced almost daily during their stay. + +For three days the weather was unsettled and few observations could be +made except for the dip of the needle which was ascertained to be 74° +37′ 48″, on which occasion a difference of eight degrees and a half was +perceived between the observations when the face of the instrument was +changed from the east to the west, the amount being the greatest when +it was placed with the face to the west. But on the 8th a westerly wind +caused a cloudless sky which enabled us to place the transit instrument +in the meridian and to ascertain the variation of the compass to be 27° +50′ west. The sky becoming cloudy in the afternoon prevented our +obtaining the corresponding observations to those gained in the +morning; and the next day an impervious fog obscured the sky until +noon. On the evening of this day we had the gratification of welcoming +our absent companion Mr. Back. His return to our society was hailed +with sincere pleasure by everyone and removed a weight of anxiety from +my mind. It appears that he had come down to the beach at Caistor just +as the ships were passing by and had applied to some boatmen to convey +him on board, which might have been soon accomplished but they, +discovering the emergency of his case, demanded an exorbitant reward +which he was not at the instant prepared to satisfy; and in consequence +they positively refused to assist him. Though he had travelled nine +successive days, almost without rest, he could not be prevailed upon to +withdraw from the agreeable scene of a ballroom in which he joined us +until a late hour. + +On the 10th, the rain having ceased, the observations for ascertaining +the dip of the needle were repeated; and the results compared with the +former ones gave a mean of 74° 33′ 20″. Nearly the same differences +were remarked in reversing the face of the instrument as before. An +attempt was also made to ascertain the magnetic force but the wind blew +too strong for procuring the observation to any degree of accuracy. + +The fineness of the following day induced us to set up the different +instruments for examination and to try how nearly the observations made +by each of them would agree; but a squall passed over just before noon, +accompanied by heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable opportunity was +entirely lost. In the intervals between the observations, and at every +opportunity, my companions were occupied in those pursuits to which +their attention had been more particularly directed in my instructions. +Whilst Dr. Richardson was collecting and examining the various +specimens of marine plants, of which these islands furnish an abundant +and diversified supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views and sketches +of the surrounding scenery which is extremely picturesque in many +parts, and wants only the addition of trees to make it beautiful. The +hills present the bold character of rugged sterility, whilst the +valleys at this season are clothed with luxuriant verdure. + +It was not till the 14th that, by appointment, the boatmen were to +assemble at the house of Mr. Geddes to engage to accompany the +Expedition. Several persons collected but, to my great mortification, I +found they were all so strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension +either that great danger would attend the service, or that we should +carry them further than they would agree to go, that not a single man +would engage with us; some of them however said they would consider the +subject and give me an answer on the following day. This indecisive +conduct was extremely annoying to me especially as the next evening was +fixed for the departure of the ships. + +At the appointed time on the following morning four men only presented +themselves and these, after much hesitation, engaged to accompany the +Expedition to Fort Chipewyan if they should be required so far. The +bowmen and steersmen were to receive forty pounds wages annually and +the middle men thirty-five pounds. They stipulated to be sent back to +the Orkney Islands free of expense and to receive their pay until the +time of their arrival. Only these few men could be procured although +our requisition had been sent to almost every island, even as far as +the northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused with the extreme +caution these men used before they would sign the agreement; they +minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed every circumstance, looked +narrowly into the plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to +the prospect of return. Such caution on the part of the northern +mariners forms a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless +manner in which an English seaman enters upon any enterprise, however +hazardous, without inquiring or desiring to know where he is going or +what he is going about. + +The brig _Harmony_, belonging to the Moravian Missionary Society and +bound to their settlement at Nain on the coast of Labrador, was lying +at anchor. With the view of collecting some Esquimaux words and +sentences, or gaining any information respecting the manners and habits +of that people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a visit. We found +the passengers who were going out as Missionaries extremely disposed to +communicate; but as they only spoke the German and Esquimaux languages, +of which we were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily much +confined; by the aid however of an Esquimaux and German Dictionary some +few words were collected which we considered might be useful. There +were on board a very interesting girl and a young man who were natives +of Disco in old Greenland; both of them had fair complexions, rather +handsome features, and a lively manner; the former was going to be +married to a resident Missionary and the latter to officiate in that +character. The commander of the vessel gave me a translation of the +Gospel of St. John in the Esquimaux language printed by the Moravian +Society in London. + +June 16. + +The wind being unfavourable for sailing I went on shore with Dr. +Richardson and took several lunar observations at the place of our +former residence. The result obtained was latitude 58° 56′ 56″ North; +longitude 3° 17′ 55″ West; variation 27° 50′ West; dip of the magnetic +needle 74° 33′ 20″. In the afternoon the wind changed in a squall some +points towards the north and the _Prince of Wales_ made the preparatory +signal for sea. At three P.M. the ships weighed, an hour too early for +the tide; as soon as this served we entered into the passage between +Hoy and Pomona, and had to beat through against a very heavy swell +which the meeting of a weather tide and a strong breeze had occasioned. + +Some dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona shore and on this side also +the tide appeared to run with the greatest strength. On clearing the +outward projecting points of Hoy and Pomona we entered at once into the +Atlantic and commenced our voyage to Hudson’s Bay, having the +_Eddystone_, _Wear_ and _Harmony_, Missionary brig, in company. + +The comparisons of the chronometers this day indicated that Arnold’s +Numbers 2148 and 2147 had slightly changed their rates since they had +been brought on board; fortunately the rate of the former seems to have +increased nearly in the same ratio as the other has lost, and the mean +longitude will not be materially affected. + +Being now fairly launched into the Atlantic I issued a general +memorandum for the guidance of the officers during the prosecution of +the service on which we were engaged, and communicated to them the +several points of information that were expected from us by my +instructions. I also furnished them with copies of the signals which +had been agreed upon between Lieutenant Parry and myself to be used in +the event of our reaching the northern coast of America and falling in +with each other. + +At the end of the month of June our progress was found to have been +extremely slow owing to a determined North-West wind and much sea. We +had numerous birds hovering round the ship; principally fulmars +(_Procellaria glacialis_) and shearwaters (_Procellaria puffinus_) and +not unfrequently saw shoals of grampusses sporting about, which the +Greenland seamen term finners from their large dorsal fin. Some +porpoises occasionally appeared and whenever they did the crew were +sanguine in their expectation of having a speedy change in the wind +which had been so vexatiously contrary but they were disappointed in +every instance. + +Thursday, July 1. + +The month of July set in more favourably; and aided by fresh breezes we +advanced rapidly to the westward, attended daily by numerous fulmars +and shearwaters. The Missionary brig had parted company on the 22nd of +June. We passed directly over that part of the ocean where the Sunken +Land of Buss is laid down in the old, and continued in the Admiralty +charts. Mr. Bell, the commander of the _Eddystone_, informed me that +the pilot who brought his ship down the Thames told him that he had +gained soundings in twelve feet somewhere hereabout; and I am rather +inclined to attribute the very unusual and cross sea we had in this +neighbourhood to the existence of a bank than to the effect of a gale +of wind which we had just before experienced; and I cannot but regret +that the commander of the ship did not try for soundings at frequent +intervals. + +ENTER DAVIS STRAITS. + + +By the 25th July we had opened the entrance of Davis Straits and in the +afternoon spoke the _Andrew Marvell_, bound to England with a cargo of +fourteen fish. The master informed us that the ice had been heavier +this season in Davis Straits than he had ever recollected, and that it +lay particularly close to the westward, being connected with the shore +to the northward of Resolution Island and extending from thence within +a short distance of the Greenland coast; that whales had been abundant +but the ice so extremely cross that few could be killed. His ship, as +well as several others, had suffered material injury, and two vessels +had been entirely crushed between vast masses of ice in latitude 74° +40′ North, but the crews were saved. We inquired anxiously but in vain +for intelligence respecting Lieutenant Parry and the ships under his +command; but as he mentioned that the wind had been blowing strong from +the northward for some time, which would probably have cleared Baffin’s +Bay of ice, we were disposed to hope favourably of his progress. + +The clouds assumed so much the appearance of icebergs this evening as +to deceive most of the passengers and crew; but their imaginations had +been excited by the intelligence we had received from the _Andrew +Marvell_ that she had only parted from a cluster of them two days +previous to our meeting. + +On the 27th, being in latitude 57° 44′ 21″ North, longitude 47° 31′ 14″ +West and the weather calm, we tried our soundings but did not reach the +bottom. The register thermometer was attached to the line just above +the lead, and is supposed to have descended six hundred and fifty +fathoms. A well-corked bottle was also fastened to the line two hundred +fathoms above the lead and went down four hundred and fifty fathoms. +The change in temperature shown by the register thermometer during the +descent was from 52° to 40.5; and it stood at the latter point when +taken out of the tin case. The temperature of the water brought up in +the bottle was 41°, being half a degree higher at four hundred and +fifty than at six hundred and fifty fathoms and four degrees colder +than the water at the surface which was then at 45°, whilst that of the +air was 46°. This experiment in showing the water to be colder at a +great depth than at the surface, and in proportion to the increase of +the descent, coincides with the observations of Captain Ross and +Lieutenant Parry on their late voyage to these seas, but is contrary to +the results obtained by Captain Buchan and myself on our recent voyage +to the north between Spitzbergen and Greenland, in which sea we +invariably found the water brought from any great depth to be warmer +than that at the surface. + +On the 28th we tacked to avoid an extensive stream of sailing ice. The +temperature of the water fell to 39.5° when we were near it, but was at +41° when at the distance of half a mile. The thermometer in the air +remained steadily at 40°. Thus the proximity of this ice was not so +decidedly indicated by the decrease of the temperature of either the +air or water as I have before witnessed, which was probably owing to +the recent arrival of the stream at this point and its passing at too +quick a rate for the effectual diffusion of its chilling influence +beyond a short distance. Still the decrease in both cases was +sufficient to have given timely warning for a ship’s performing any +evolution that would have prevented the coming in contact with it had +the thickness of the weather precluded a distant view of the danger. + +The approach to ice would be more evidently pointed out in the +Atlantic, or wherever the surface is not so continually chilled by the +passing and the melting of ice as in this sea; and I should strongly +recommend a strict hourly attention to the thermometrical state of the +water at the surface in all parts where ships are exposed to the +dangerous concussion of sailing icebergs, as a principal means of +security. + +The following day our ship came near another stream of ice and the +approach to it was indicated by a decrease of the temperature of the +water at the surface from 44° to 42°. A small pine-tree was picked up +much shattered by the ice. In the afternoon of the 30th a very dense +fog came on; and about six P.M. when sailing before a fresh breeze we +were suddenly involved in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable +difficulty was experienced in steering through the narrow channels +between the different masses in this foggy weather, and the ship +received several severe blows. + +The water, as usual in the centre of the stream, was quite smooth, but +we heard the waves beating violently against the outer edge of the ice. +There was some earthy matter on several of the pieces, and the whole +body bore the appearance of recent separation from the land. In the +space of two hours we again got into the open sea, but had left our two +consorts far behind; they followed our track by the guns we discharged. +The temperature of the surface water was 35° when amongst the ice, 38° +when just clear of it, and 41.5° at two miles distant. + +On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59° 58′ North, longitude 59° 53′ +West, we first fell in with large icebergs; and in the evening were +encompassed by several of considerable magnitude, which obliged us to +tack the ship in order to prevent our getting entangled amongst them. +The estimated distance from the nearest part of the Labrador coast was +then eighty-eight miles; here we tried for soundings without gaining +the bottom. The ship passed through some strong ripplings, which +evidently indicated a current, but its direction was not ascertained. +We found however by the recent observations that the ship had been set +daily to the southward since we had opened Davis Straits. The variation +of the compass was observed to be 52° 41′ West. + +At nine P.M. brilliant coruscations of the Aurora Borealis appeared, of +a pale ochre colour with a slight tinge of red, in an arched form, +crossing the zenith from North-West to South-East, but afterwards they +assumed various shapes and had a rapid motion. + +On the 5th of August a party of the officers endeavoured to get on one +of the larger icebergs, but ineffectually, owing to the steepness and +smoothness of its sides and the swell produced by its undulating +motion. This was one of the largest we saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained +its height to be one hundred and forty-nine feet; but these masses of +ice are frequently magnified to an immense size through the illusive +medium of a hazy atmosphere, and on this account their dimensions have +often been exaggerated by voyagers. + +PERILOUS SITUATION ON THE SHORE OF RESOLUTION ISLAND. + + +In the morning of the 7th the island of Resolution was indistinctly +seen through the haze but was soon afterwards entirely hidden by a very +dense fog. The favourable breeze subsided into a perfect calm and left +the ship surrounded by loose ice. At this time the _Eddystone_ was +perceived to be driving with rapidity towards some of the larger +masses; the stern-boats of this ship and of the _Wear_ were despatched +to assist in towing her clear of them. At ten a momentary clearness +presented the land distinctly at the distance of two miles; the ship +was quite unmanageable and under the sole governance of the currents +which ran in strong eddies between the masses of ice. Our consorts were +also seen, the _Wear_ being within hail and the _Eddystone_ at a short +distance from us. Two attempts were ineffectually made to gain +soundings, and the extreme density of the fog precluded us from any +other means of ascertaining the direction in which we were driving +until half-past twelve when we had the alarming view of a barren rugged +shore within a few yards towering over the mastheads. Almost instantly +afterwards the ship struck violently on a point of rocks projecting +from the island; and the ship’s side was brought so near to the shore +that poles were prepared to push her off. This blow displaced the +rudder and raised it several inches but it fortunately had been +previously confined by tackles. A gentle swell freed the ship from this +perilous situation but the current hurried us along in contact with the +rocky shore and the prospect was most alarming. On the outward bow was +perceived a rugged and precipitous cliff whose summit was hid in the +fog, and the vessel’s head was pointed towards the bottom of a small +bay into which we were rapidly driving. There now seemed to be no +probability of escaping shipwreck, being without wind and having the +rudder in its present useless state; the only assistance was that of a +boat employed in towing which had been placed in the water between the +ship and the shore at the imminent risk of its being crushed. The ship +again struck in passing over a ledge of rocks and happily the blow +replaced the rudder, which enabled us to take advantage of a light +breeze and to direct the ship’s head without the projecting cliff. But +the breeze was only momentary and the ship was a third time driven on +shore on the rocky termination of the cliff. Here we remained +stationery for some seconds and with little prospect of being removed +from this perilous situation; but we were once more extricated by the +swell from this ledge also and carried still farther along the shore. +The coast became now more rugged and our view of it was terminated by +another high projecting point on the starboard bow. Happily, before we +had reached it, a light breeze enabled us to turn the ship’s head to +seaward and we had the gratification to find, when the sails were +trimmed, that she drew off the shore. We had made but little progress +however when she was violently forced by the current against a large +iceberg lying aground. + +Our prospect was now more alarming than at any preceding period; and it +would be difficult for me to portray the anxiety and dismay depicted on +the countenances of the female passengers and children who were rushing +on deck in spite of the endeavours of the officers to keep them below, +out of the danger which was apprehended if the masts should be carried +away. After the first concussion the ship was driven along the steep +and rugged side of this iceberg with such amazing rapidity that the +destruction of the masts seemed inevitable, and everyone expected we +should again be forced on the rocks in the most disabled state; but we +providentially escaped this perilous result, which must have been +decisive. + +The dense fog now cleared away for a short time and we discovered the +_Eddystone_ close to some rocks, having three boats employed in towing; +but the _Wear_ was not visible. + +Our ship received water very fast; the pumps were instantly manned and +kept in continual use, and signals of distress were made to the +_Eddystone_, whose commander promptly came on board and then ordered to +our assistance his carpenter and all the men he could spare together +with the carpenter and boat’s crew of the _Wear_, who had gone on board +the _Eddystone_ in the morning and were prevented from returning to +their own vessel by the fog. As the wind was increasing and the sky +appeared very unsettled it was determined the _Eddystone_ should take +the ship in tow, that the undivided attention of the passengers and +crew might be directed to pumping and clearing the holds to examine +whether there was a possibility of stopping the leak. We soon had +reason to suppose the principal injury had been received from a blow +near the stern-post, and after cutting away part of the ceiling the +carpenters endeavoured to stop the rushing in of the water by forcing +oakum between the timbers; but this had not the desired effect and the +leak, in spite of all our efforts at the pumps, increased so much that +parties of the officers and passengers were stationed to bail out the +water in buckets at different parts of the hold. A heavy gale came on, +blowing from the land, as the night advanced; the sails were split, the +ship was encompassed by heavy ice and, in forcing through a +closely-connected stream, the tow-rope broke and obliged us to take a +portion of the seamen from the pumps and appoint them to the management +of the ship. + +Fatigue indeed had caused us to relax in our exertions at the pumps +during a part of the night of the 8th, and on the following morning +upwards of five feet of water was found in the well. Renewed exertions +were now put forth by every person, and before eight A.M. the water was +so much reduced as to enable the carpenters to get at other defective +places; but the remedies they could apply were insufficient to repress +the water from rushing in, and our labours could but just keep the ship +in the same state throughout the day until six P.M.; when the strength +of everyone began to fail the expedient of thrusting in felt, as well +as oakum, was resorted to, and a plank nailed over all. After this +operation a perceptible diminution in the water was made and, being +encouraged by the change, we put forth our utmost exertion in bailing +and pumping; and before night to our infinite joy the leak was so +overpowered that the pumps were only required to be used at intervals +of ten minutes. A sail covered with every substance that could be +carried into the leaks by the pressure of the water was drawn under the +quarter of the ship and secured by ropes on each side. + +As a matter of precaution in the event of having to abandon the ship, +which was for some time doubtful, the elderly women and children were +removed to the _Eddystone_ when the wind was moderate this afternoon, +but the young women remained to assist at the pumps, and their services +were highly valuable, both for their personal labour and for the +encouragement their example and perseverance gave to the men. + +At daylight on the 9th every eye was anxiously cast around the horizon +in search of the _Wear_ but in vain; and the recollection of our own +recent peril caused us to entertain considerable apprehensions for her +safety. This anxiety quickened our efforts to exchange our shattered +sails for new ones that the ship might be got as speedily as possible +near to the land, which was but just in sight, and a careful search be +made for her along the coast. We were rejoiced to find that our leak +did not increase by carrying sail, and we ventured in the evening to +remove the sail which had been placed under the part where the injury +had been received as it greatly impeded our advance. + +We passed many icebergs on the 10th and in the evening we tacked from a +level field of ice which extended northward as far as the eye could +reach. Our leak remained in the same state; the pumps discharged in +three minutes the quantity of water which had been received in fifteen. + +LAND ON THE COAST OF LABRADOR. + + +The ship could not be got near to the land before the afternoon of the +11th. At four P.M. we hove to, opposite to and about five miles distant +from the spot on which we had first struck on Saturday. Every glass was +directed along the shore (as they had been throughout the day) to +discover any trace of our absent consort; but as none was seen our +solicitude respecting her was much increased, and we feared the crew +might be wrecked on this inhospitable shore. Guns were frequently fired +to apprise any who might be near of our approach; but as no one +appeared and no signal was returned and the loose ice was setting down +towards the ship we bore up to proceed to the next appointed +rendezvous. At eight P.M. we were abreast of the south-west end of the +island called Cape Resolution, which is a low point but indicated at a +distance by a lofty round-backed hill that rises above it. We entered +Hudson’s Straits soon afterwards. + +The coast of Resolution Island should be approached with caution as the +tides appear to be strong and uncertain in their course. Some dangerous +rocks lie above and below the water’s edge at the distance of five or +six miles from East Bluff bearing South 32° East. + +August 12. + +Having had a fresh gale through the night we reached Saddleback Island +by noon—the place of rendezvous; and looked anxiously but in vain for +the _Wear_. Several guns were fired, supposing she might be hid from +our view by the land; but as she did not appear Captain Davidson, +having remained two hours, deemed further delay inexpedient and bore up +to keep the advantage of the fair wind. The outline of this island is +rugged; the hummock on its northern extremity appeared to me to +resemble a decayed martello tower more than a saddle. + +Azimuths were obtained this evening that gave the variation 58° 45′ +West, which is greater than is laid down in the charts, or than the +officers of Hudson’s Bay ships have been accustomed to allow. + +ESQUIMAUX OF SAVAGE ISLANDS. + + +We arrived abreast of the Upper Savage Island early in the morning and, +as the breeze was moderate, the ship was steered as near to the shore +as the wind would permit to give the Esquimaux inhabitants an +opportunity of coming off to barter, which they soon embraced. + +Their shouts at a distance intimated their approach some time before we +descried the canoes paddling towards us; the headmost of them reached +us at eleven; these were quickly followed by others, and before noon +about forty canoes, each holding one man, were assembled around the two +ships. In the afternoon when we approached nearer to the shore five or +six larger ones containing the women and children came up. + +The Esquimaux immediately evinced their desire to barter and displayed +no small cunning in making their bargains, taking care not to exhibit +too many articles at first. Their principal commodities were oil, +sea-horse teeth, whalebone, seal-skin dresses, caps and boots, +deerskins and horns, and models of their canoes; and they received in +exchange small saws, knives, nails, tin-kettles, and needles. It was +pleasing to behold the exultation and to hear the shouts of the whole +party when an acquisition was made by any one; and not a little +ludicrous to behold the eagerness with which the fortunate person +licked each article with his tongue on receiving it, as a finish to the +bargain and an act of appropriation. They in no instance omitted this +strange practice, however small the article; the needles even passed +individually through the ceremony. The women brought imitations of men, +women, animals, and birds, carved with labour and ingenuity out of +sea-horse teeth. The dresses and the figures of the animals were not +badly executed, but there was no attempt at the delineation of the +countenances; and most of the figures were without eyes, ears and +fingers, the execution of which would perhaps have required more +delicate instruments than they possess. The men set most value on saws; +_kuttee-swa-bak_, the name by which they distinguish them, was a +constant cry. Knives were held next in estimation. An old sword was +bartered from the _Eddystone_ and I shall long remember the universal +burst of joy on the happy man’s receiving it. It was delightful to +witness the general interest excited by individual acquisitions. There +was no desire shown by anyone to over-reach his neighbour, or to press +towards any part of the ship where a bargain was making until the +person in possession of the place had completed his exchange and +removed; and if any article happened to be demanded from the outer +canoes the men nearest assisted willingly in passing the thing across. +Supposing the party to belong to one tribe the total number of the +tribe must exceed two hundred persons, as there were probably one +hundred and fifty around the ships, and few of these were elderly +persons or male children. + +Their faces were broad and flat, the eyes small. The men were in +general stout. Some of the younger women and the children had rather +pleasing countenances, but the difference between these and the more +aged of that sex bore strong testimony to the effects which a few years +produce in this ungenial climate. Most of the party had sore eyes, all +of them appeared of a plethoric habit of body; several were observed +bleeding at the nose during their stay near the ship. The men’s dresses +consisted of a jacket of seal-skin, the trousers of bear-skin, and +several had caps of the white fox-skin. The female dresses were made of +the same materials but differently shaped, having a hood in which the +infants were carried. We thought their manner very lively and +agreeable. They were fond of mimicking our speech and gestures; but +nothing afforded them greater amusement than when we attempted to +retaliate by pronouncing any of their words. + +The canoes were of seal-skin and similar in every respect to those used +by the Esquimaux in Greenland; they were generally new and very +complete in their appointments. Those appropriated to the women are of +ruder construction and only calculated for fine weather; they are +however useful vessels, being capable of containing twenty persons with +their luggage. An elderly man officiates as steersman and the women +paddle, but they have also a mast which carries a sail made of dressed +whale-gut. + +When the women had disposed of all their articles of trade they +resorted to entreaty; and the putting in practice many enticing +gestures was managed with so much address as to procure them presents +of a variety of beads, needles, and other articles in great demand +among females. + +It is probable these Esquimaux go from this shore to some part of +Labrador to pass the winter, as parties of them have been frequently +seen by the homeward-bound Hudson’s Bay ships in the act of crossing +the Strait. + +They appear to speak the same language as the tribe of Esquimaux who +reside near to the Moravian settlements in Labrador: for we perceived +they used several of the words which had been given to us by the +Missionaries at Stromness. + +Towards evening the Captain, being desirous to get rid of his visitors, +took an effectual method by tacking from the shore; our friends then +departed apparently in high glee at the harvest they had reaped. They +paddled away very swiftly and would doubtless soon reach the shore +though it was distant ten or twelve miles. + +Not having encountered any of the ice which usually arrests the +progress of ships in their outward passage through the Straits, and +being consequently deprived of the usual means of replenishing our +stock of water which had become short, the Captain resolved on going to +the coast of Labrador for a supply. Dr. Richardson and I gladly +embraced this opportunity to land and examine this part of the coast. I +was also desirous to observe the variation on shore as the azimuths +which had been taken on board both ships since our entrance into the +Straits had shown a greater amount than we had been led to expect; but +unluckily the sun became obscured. The beach consisted of large rolled +stones of gneiss and sienite, amongst which many pieces of ice had +grounded, and it was with difficulty that we effected a landing in a +small cove under a steep cliff. These stones were worn perfectly +smooth; neither in the interstices nor at the bottom of the water, +which was very clear, were there any vestiges of seaweed. + +The cliff was from forty to fifty feet high and quite perpendicular, +and had at its base a small slip of soil formed of the debris of a bed +of clay-slate. From this narrow spot Dr. Richardson collected specimens +of thirty different species of plants; and we were about to scramble up +a shelving part of the rock and go into the interior when we perceived +the signal of recall which the master had caused to be made in +consequence of a sudden change in the appearance of the weather. + +On the evening of the 19th we passed Digge’s Islands, the termination +of Hudson’s Strait. Here the _Eddystone_ parted company, being bound to +Moose Factory at the bottom of the Bay. A strong north wind came on, +which prevented our getting round the north end of Mansfield; and as it +continued to blow with equal strength for the next five days we were +most vexatiously detained in beating along the Labrador coast and near +the dangerous chain of islands, the Sleepers, which are said to extend +from the latitude of 60° 10′ to 57° 00′ North. The press of sail which +of necessity we carried caused the leak to increase and the pumps were +kept in constant use. + +A favouring wind at length enabled us on the 25th to shape our course +across Hudson’s Bay. Nothing worthy of remark occurred during this +passage except the rapid decrease in the variation of the magnetic +needle. The few remarks respecting the appearance of the land which we +were able to make in our quick passage through these Straits were +transmitted to the Admiralty; but as they will not be interesting to +the general reader, and may not be sufficiently accurate for the +guidance of the Navigator, they are omitted in this narrative. + +YORK FACTORY. + + +On the 28th we discovered the land to the southward of Cape Tatnam, +which is so extremely low that the tops of the trees were first +discerned; the soundings at the time were seventeen fathoms, which +gradually decreased to five as the shore was approached. Cape Tatnam is +not otherwise remarkable than as being the point from which the coast +inclines rather more to the westward towards York Factory. + +The opening of the morning of the 30th presented to our view the +anchorage at York Flats, and the gratifying sight of a vessel at +anchor, which we recognised, after an anxious examination, to be the +_Wear_. A strong breeze blowing from the direction of the Flats caused +the water to be more shallow than usual on the sandy bar which lies on +the seaward side of the anchorage, and we could not get over it before +two P.M. when the tide was nearly at its height. + +Immediately after our arrival Mr. Williams, the Governor of the +Hudson’s Bay Company’s posts, came on board accompanied by the +Commander of the _Wear_. The pleasure we felt in welcoming the latter +gentleman can easily be imagined when it is considered what reason we +had to apprehend that he and his crew had been numbered with the dead. +We learned that one of the larger masses of ice had providentially +drifted between the vessel’s side and the rocks just at the time he +expected to strike, to which he secured it until a breeze sprang up and +enabled him to pursue his voyage. + +PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR. + + +The Governor acquainted me that he had received information from the +Committee of the Hudson’s Bay Company of the equipment of the +Expedition, and that the officers would come out in their first ship. +In the evening Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood, and I accompanied him to York +Factory which we reached after dark; it is distant from the Flats seven +miles. Early next morning the honour of a salute was conferred on the +members of the Expedition. + +Having communicated to the Governor the objects of the Expedition, and +that I had been directed to consult with him and the senior servants of +the Company as to the best mode of proceeding towards the execution of +the service, I was gratified by his assurance that his instructions +from the Committee directed that every possible assistance should be +given to forward our progress, and that he should feel peculiar +pleasure in performing this part of his duty. He introduced me at once +to Messrs. Charles, Swaine, and Snodie, masters of districts who, from +long residence in the country, were perfectly acquainted with the +different modes of travelling, and the obstructions which might be +anticipated. At the desire of these gentlemen I drew up a series of +questions respecting the points on which we required information; to +which two days afterwards they had the kindness to return very explicit +and satisfactory answers; and on receiving them I requested the +Governor to favour me with his sentiments on the same subject in +writing, which he delivered to me on the following day. + +Having learned that Messrs. Shaw, McTavish, and several other partners +of the North-West Company were under detention at this place we took +the earliest opportunity of visiting them; when, having presented the +general circular and other introductory letters with which I had been +furnished by their agent Mr. Simon McGillivray, we received from them +the most friendly and full assurance of the cordial endeavours of the +wintering partners of their company to promote the interests of the +Expedition. The knowledge we had now gained of the state of the violent +commercial opposition existing in the country rendered this assurance +highly gratifying; and these gentlemen added to the obligation by +freely communicating that information respecting the interior of the +country which their intelligence and long residence so fully qualified +them to give. + +I deemed it expedient to issue a memorandum to the officers of the +Expedition strictly prohibiting any interference whatever in the +existing quarrels, or any that might arise, between the two Companies; +and on presenting it to the principals of both the parties they +expressed their satisfaction at the step I had taken. + +The opinions of all the gentlemen were so decidedly in favour of the +route by Cumberland House and through the chain of posts to the Great +Slave Lake that I determined on pursuing it, and immediately +communicated my intention to the Governor with a request that he would +furnish me with the means of conveyance for the party as speedily as +possible. + +It was suggested in my instructions that we might probably procure a +schooner at this place to proceed north as far as Wager Bay; but the +vessel alluded to was lying at Moose Factory, completely out of repair; +independently of which the route directly to the northward was rendered +impracticable by the impossibility of procuring hunters and guides on +the coast. + +I found that, as the Esquimaux inhabitants had left Churchill a month +previous to our arrival, no interpreter from that quarter could be +procured before their return in the following spring. The Governor +however undertook to forward to us, next season, the only one amongst +them who understood English, if he could be induced to go. + +The Governor selected one of the largest of the Company’s boats for our +use on the journey, and directed the carpenters to commence refitting +it immediately; but he was only able to furnish us with a steersman; +and we were obliged to make up the rest of the crew with the boatmen +brought from Stromness and our two attendants. + +York Factory, the principal depôt of the Hudson’s Bay Company, stands +on the west bank of Hayes River, about five miles above its mouth, on +the marshy peninsula which separates the Hayes and Nelson Rivers. The +surrounding country is flat and swampy and covered with willows, +poplars, larch, spruce, and birch-trees; but the requisition for fuel +has expended all the wood in the vicinity of the fort and the residents +have now to send for it to a considerable distance. The soil is +alluvial clay and contains imbedded rolled stones. Though the bank of +the river is elevated about twenty feet it is frequently overflown by +the spring floods, and large portions are annually carried away by the +disruption of the ice which, grounding in the stream, have formed +several muddy islands. These interruptions, together with the various +collection of stones that are hid at high-water, render the navigation +of the river difficult; but vessels of two hundred tons burden may be +brought through the proper channels as high as the Factory. + +The principal buildings are placed in the form of a square having an +octagonal court in the centre; they are two storeys in height and have +flat roofs covered with lead. The officers dwell in one portion of this +square, and in the other parts the articles of merchandise are kept: +the workshops, storehouses for the furs, and the servants’ houses are +ranged on the outside of the square, and the whole is surrounded by a +stockade twenty feet high. A platform is laid from the house to the +pier on the bank for the convenience of transporting the stores and +furs, which is the only promenade the residents have on this marshy +spot during the summer season. The few Indians who now frequent this +establishment belong to the _Swampy Crees_. There were several of them +encamped on the outside of the stockade. Their tents were rudely +constructed by tying twenty or thirty poles together at the top, and +spreading them out at the base so as to form a cone; these were covered +with dressed moose-skins. The fire is placed in the centre and a hole +is left for the escape of the smoke. The inmates had a squalid look and +were suffering under the combined afflictions of the whooping-cough and +measles; but even these miseries did not keep them from an excessive +indulgence in spirits, which they unhappily can procure from the +traders with too much facility; and they nightly serenaded us with +their monotonous drunken songs. Their sickness at this time was +particularly felt by the traders, this being the season of the year +when the exertion of every hunter is required to procure their winter’s +stock of geese, which resort in immense flocks to the extensive flats +in this neighbourhood. These birds during the summer retire far to the +north and breed in security; but when the approach of winter compels +them to seek a more southern climate they generally alight on the +marshes of this bay and fatten there for three weeks or a month before +they take their final departure from the country. They also make a +short halt at the same spots in their progress northwards in the +spring. Their arrival is welcomed with joy, and the goose hunt is one +of the most plentiful seasons of the year. The ducks frequent the +swamps all the summer. + +The weather was extremely unfavourable for celestial observations +during our stay, and it was only by watching the momentary appearances +of the sun that we were enabled to obtain fresh rates for the +chronometers and allow for their errors from Greenwich time. The dip of +the needle was observed to be 79° 29′ 07″, and the difference produced +by reversing the face of the instrument was 11° 3′ 40″. A succession of +fresh breezes prevented our ascertaining the intensity of the magnetic +force. The position of York Factory by our observations is in latitude +57° 00′ 03″ North, longitude 92° 26′ West. The variation of the compass +6° 00′ 21″ East. + + + + +CHAPTER 2. + +PASSAGE UP HAYES, STEEL AND HILL RIVERS. CROSS SWAMPY LAKE. JACK RIVER. +KNEE LAKE AND MAGNETIC ISLET. TROUT RIVER. HOLY LAKE. WEEPINAPANNIS +RIVER. WINDY LAKE. WHITE FALL LAKE AND RIVER. ECHEMAMIS AND SEA RIVERS. +PLAY GREEN LAKES. LAKE WINNIPEG. RIVER SASKATCHEWAN. CROSS, CEDAR AND +PINE ISLAND LAKES. CUMBERLAND HOUSE. + + +PASSAGE UP HAYES, STEEL, AND HILL RIVERS. + + +September 1819. + +On the 9th of September, our boat being completed, arrangements were +made for our departure as soon as the tide should serve. But when the +stores were brought down to the beach it was found that the boat would +not contain them all. The whole therefore of the bacon and part of the +flour, rice, tobacco, and ammunition were returned into the store. The +bacon was too bulky an article to be forwarded under any circumstances; +but the Governor undertook to forward the rest next season. In making +the selection of articles to carry with us I was guided by the judgment +of Governor Williams who assured me that tobacco, ammunition, and +spirits could be procured in the interior, otherwise I should have been +very unwilling to have left these essential articles behind. We +embarked at noon and were honoured with a salute of eight guns and +three cheers from the Governor and all the inmates of the fort who had +assembled to witness our departure. We gratefully returned their cheers +and then made sail, much delighted at having now commenced our voyage +into the interior of America. The wind and tide failing us at the +distance of six miles above the Factory, and the current being too +rapid for using oars to advantage, the crew had to commence tracking, +or dragging the boat by a line to which they were harnessed. This +operation is extremely laborious in these rivers. Our men were obliged +to walk along the steep declivity of a high bank, rendered at this +season soft and slippery by frequent rains, and their progress was +often further impeded by fallen trees which, having slipped from the +verge of the thick wood above, hung on the face of the bank in a great +variety of directions. Notwithstanding these obstacles we advanced at +the rate of two miles an hour, one-half of the crew relieving the other +at intervals of an hour and a half. The banks of the river and its +islands, composed of alluvial soil, are well covered with pines, +larches, poplars, and willows. The breadth of the stream some distance +above the Factory is about half a mile, and its depth during this day’s +voyage varied from three to nine feet. + +At sunset we landed and pitched the tent for the night, having made a +progress of twelve miles. A large fire was quickly kindled, supper +speedily prepared and as readily despatched, when we retired with our +buffalo robes on and enjoyed a night of sound repose. + +It may here be stated that the survey of the river was made by taking +the bearings of every point with a pocket compass, estimating the +distances, and making a connected eye-sketch of the whole. This part of +the survey was allotted to Messrs. Back and Hood conjointly: Mr. Hood +also protracted the route every evening on a ruled map, after the +courses and distances had been corrected by observations for latitude +and longitude taken by myself as often as the weather would allow. The +extraordinary talent of this young officer in this line of service +proved of the greatest advantage to the Expedition, and he continued to +perform that duty until his lamented death with a degree of zeal and +accuracy that characterised all his pursuits. + +The next morning our camp was in motion at five A.M., and we soon +afterwards embarked with the flattering accompaniment of a fair wind: +it proved however too light to enable us to stem the stream, and we +were obliged to resume the fatiguing operation of tracking; sometimes +under cliffs so steep that the men could scarcely find a footing, and +not unfrequently over spots rendered so miry by the small streams that +trickled from above as to be almost impassable. In the course of the +day we passed the scene of a very melancholy accident. Some years ago +two families of Indians, induced by the flatness of a small beach which +lay betwixt the cliff and the river, chose it as the site of their +encampment. They retired quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice, +detached from the bank and urged by an accumulation of water in the +crevice behind, was tottering to its base. It fell during the night and +the whole party was buried under its ruins. + +The length of our voyage today was in a direct line sixteen miles and a +quarter on a South-South-West course. We encamped soon after sunset and +the tent was scarcely pitched when a heavy rain began, which continued +all night. + +Sixteen miles on the 11th and five on the following morning brought us +to the commencement of Hayes River which is formed by the confluence of +the Shamattawa and Steel Rivers. Our observations place this spot in +latitude 56° 22′ 32″ North, longitude 93° 1′ 37″ West. It is +forty-eight miles and a half from York Factory including the windings +of the river. Steel River, through which our course lay, is about three +hundred yards wide at its mouth; its banks have more elevation than +those of Hayes River, but they shelve more gradually down to the stream +and afford a tolerably good towing path, which compensates in some +degree for the rapids and frequent shoals that impede its navigation. +We succeeded in getting about ten miles above the mouth of the river +before the close of day compelled us to disembark. + +We made an effort on the morning of the 13th to stem the current under +sail but, as the course of the river was very serpentine, we found that +greater progress could be made by tracking. Steel River presents much +beautiful scenery; it winds through a narrow but well wooded valley +which at every turn disclosed to us an agreeable variety of prospect, +rendered more picturesque by the effect of the season on the foliage, +now ready to drop from the trees. The light yellow of the fading +poplars formed a fine contrast to the dark evergreen of the spruce, +whilst the willows of an intermediate hue served to shade the two +principal masses of colour into each other. The scene was occasionally +enlivened by the bright purple tints of the dogwood, blended with the +browner shades of the dwarf birch and frequently intermixed with the +gay yellow flowers of the shrubby cinquefoil. With all these charms the +scene appeared desolate from the want of human species. The stillness +was so great that even the twittering of the _whiskey-johneesh_, or +cinereous crow caused us to start. Our voyage today was sixteen miles +on a South-West course. + +September 14. + +We had much rain during the night and also in the morning, which +detained us in our encampment later than usual. We set out as soon as +the weather cleared up and in a short time arrived at the head of Steel +River where it is formed by the junction of Fox and Hill Rivers. These +two rivers are nearly of equal width but the latter is the most rapid. +Mr. McDonald, on his way to Red River in a small canoe manned by two +Indians, overtook us at this place. It may be mentioned as a proof of +the dexterity of the Indians and the skill with which they steal upon +their game that they had on the preceding day, with no other arms than +a hatchet, killed two deer, a hawk, a curlew, and a sturgeon. Three of +the Company’s boats joined us in the course of the morning and we +pursued our course up Hill River in company. The water in this river +was so low and the rapids so bad that we were obliged several times in +the course of the day to jump into the water and assist in lifting the +boat over the large stones which impeded the navigation. The length of +our voyage today was only six miles and three-quarters. + +The four boats commenced operations together at five o’clock the +following morning but, our boat being overladen, we soon found that we +were unable to keep pace with the others; and therefore proposed to the +gentlemen in charge of the Company’s boats that they should relieve us +of part of our cargo. This they declined doing under the plea of not +having received orders to that effect, notwithstanding that the +circular with which I was furnished by Governor Williams strictly +enjoined all the Company’s servants to afford us every assistance. In +consequence of this refusal we dropped behind, and our steersman, who +was inexperienced, being thus deprived of the advantage of observing +the route followed by the guide, who was in the foremost boat, +frequently took a wrong channel. The tow-line broke twice and the boat +was only prevented from going broadside down the stream and breaking to +pieces against the stones by the officers and men leaping into the +water and holding her head to the current until the line could be +carried again to the shore. It is but justice to say that in these +trying situations we received much assistance from Mr. Thomas Swaine +who with great kindness waited for us with the boat under his charge at +such places as he apprehended would be most difficult to pass. We +encamped at sunset, completely jaded with toil. Our distance made good +this day was twelve miles and a quarter. + +The labours of the 16th commenced at half-past five, and for some time +the difficulty of getting the boats over the rapids was equal to what +we experienced the day before. Having passed a small brook however, +termed _Half-way Creek_, the river became deeper and although rapid it +was smooth enough to be named by our Orkney boatmen _Still-water_. We +were further relieved by the Company’s clerks consenting to take a few +boxes of our stores into their boats. Still we made only eleven miles +in the course of the day. + +The banks of Hill River are higher and have a more broken outline than +those of Steel or Hayes Rivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose in +some places to the height of eighty or ninety feet above the stream and +were surmounted by hills about two hundred feet high, but the thickness +of the wood prevented us from seeing far beyond the mere banks of the +river. + +September 17. + +About half-past five in the morning we commenced tracking and soon came +to a ridge of rock which extended across the stream. From this place +the boat was dragged up several narrow rocky channels until we came to +the Rock Portage where the stream, pent in by a range of small islands, +forms several cascades. In ascending the river the boats with their +cargoes are carried over one of the islands, but in the descent they +are shot down the most shelving of the cascades. Having performed the +operations of carrying, launching, and restowing the cargo we plied the +oars for a short distance and landed at a depôt called Rock House. Here +we were informed that the rapids in the upper parts of Hill River were +much worse and more numerous than those we had passed, particularly in +the present season owing to the unusual lowness of the water. This +intelligence was very mortifying, especially as the gentlemen in charge +of the Company’s boats declared that they were unable to carry any part +of our stores beyond this place; and the traders, guides, and most +experienced of the boatmen were of opinion that, unless our boat was +still further lightened, the winter would put a stop to our progress +before we could reach Cumberland House or any eligible post. Sixteen +pieces we therefore necessarily left with Mr. Bunn, the gentleman in +charge of the post, to be forwarded by the Athabasca canoes next +season, this being their place of rendezvous. + +After this we recommenced our voyage and, having pulled nearly a mile, +arrived at Borrowick’s Fall, where the boat was dragged up with a line +after part of the cargo had been carried over a small portage. From +this place to the Mud Portage, a distance of a mile and three-quarters, +the boats were pushed on with poles against a very rapid stream. Here +we encamped, having come seven miles during the day on a South-West +course. We had several snow showers in the course of the day and the +thermometer at bedtime stood at 30°. + +On the morning of the 18th the country was clothed in the livery of +winter, a heavy fall of snow having taken place during the night. We +embarked at the usual hour and in the course of the day crossed the +Point of Rocks and Brassa Portages and dragged the boats through +several minor rapids. In this tedious way we only made good about nine +miles. + +On Sunday the 19th we hauled the boats up several short rapids or, as +the boatmen term them, expressively enough, _spouts_, and carried them +over the Portages of Lower Burntwood and Morgan’s Rocks, on the latter +of which we encamped, having proceeded during the whole day only one +mile and three-quarters. + +The upper part of Hill River swells out considerably, and at Morgan’s +Rocks where it is three-quarters of a mile wide we were gratified with +a more extensive prospect of the country than any we had enjoyed since +leaving York Factory. The banks of the river here, consisting of low +flat rocks with intermediate swamps, permitted us to obtain views of +the interior, the surface of which is broken into a multitude of +cone-shaped hills. The highest of these hills, which gives a name to +the river, has an elevation not exceeding six hundred feet. From its +summit thirty-six lakes are said to be visible. The beauty of the +scenery, dressed in the tints of autumn, called forth our admiration +and was the subject of Mr. Hood’s accurate pencil. On the 20th we +passed Upper Burntwood and Rocky Ledge Portages besides several strong +_spouts;_ and in the evening arrived at Smooth Rock Portage where we +encamped, having come three miles and a half. It is not easy for any +but an eye-witness to form an adequate idea of the exertions of the +Orkney boatmen in the navigation of this river. The necessity they are +under of frequently jumping into the water to lift the boats over the +rocks compels them to remain the whole day in wet clothes at a season +when the temperature is far below the freezing-point. The immense loads +too which they carry over the portages is not more a matter of surprise +than the alacrity with which they perform these laborious duties. + +CROSS SWAMPY LAKE. + + +At six on the morning of the 21st we left our encampment and soon after +arrived at the Mossy Portage where the cargoes were carried through a +deep bog for a quarter of a mile. The river swells out above this +portage to the breadth of several miles and as the islands are numerous +there are a great variety of channels. Night overtook us before we +arrived at the _Second Portage_, so named from its being the second in +the passage down the river. Our whole distance this day was one mile +and a quarter. + +On the 22nd our route led us amongst many wooded islands which, lying +in long vistas, produced scenes of much beauty. In the course of the +day we crossed the Upper Portage, surmounted the Devil’s Landing Place, +and urged the boat with poles through Groundwater Creek. At the upper +end of this creek, our bowman having given the boat too great a sheer +to avoid a rock, it was caught on the broadside by the current and in +defiance of our utmost exertions hurried down the rapid. Fortunately +however it grounded against a rock high enough to prevent the current +from oversetting it, and the crews of the other boats having come to +our assistance we succeeded after several trials in throwing a rope to +them with which they dragged our almost sinking vessel stern foremost +up the stream and rescued us from our perilous situation. We encamped +in the dusk of evening amidst a heavy thunderstorm, having advanced two +miles and three-quarters. + +About ten in the morning of the 23rd we arrived at the _Dramstone_ +which is hailed with pleasure by the boats’ crews as marking the +termination of the laborious ascent of Hill River. We complied with the +custom from whence it derives its name and soon after landing upon Sail +Island prepared breakfast. In the meantime our boatmen cut down and +rigged a new mast, the old one having been thrown overboard at the +mouth of Steel River, where it ceased to be useful. We left Sail Island +with a fair wind and soon afterwards arrived at a depôt situated on +Swampy Lake where we received a supply of mouldy _pemmican_.[2] Mr. +Calder and his attendant were the only tenants of this cheerless abode, +and their only food was the wretched stuff with which they supplied us, +the lake not yielding fish at this season. + + [2] Buffalo meat, dried and pounded and mixed with melted fat. + +JACK RIVER. + + +After a short delay at this post we sailed through the remainder of +Swampy Lake and slept at the Lower Portage in Jack River; the distance +sailed today being sixteen miles and a half. + +Jack River is only eight miles long but, being full of bad rapids, it +detained us considerably. At seven in the morning of the 24th we +crossed the Long Portage where the woods, having caught fire in the +summer, were still smoking. This is a common accident owing to the +neglect of the Indians and voyagers in not putting out their fires, and +in a dry season the woods may be seen blazing to the extent of many +miles. We afterwards crossed the Second, or Swampy, Portage and in the +evening encamped on the Upper Portage, where we were overtaken by an +Indian bringing an answer from Governor Williams to a letter I had +written to him on the 15th in which he renewed his injunctions to the +gentlemen of the boats accompanying us to afford us every assistance in +their power. The Aurora Borealis appeared this evening in form of a +bright arch extending across the zenith in a North-West and South-East +direction. The extent of our voyage today was two miles. + +KNEE LAKE AND MAGNETIC ISLET. + + +About noon on the 25th we entered Knee Lake which has a very irregular +form and near its middle takes a sudden turn from whence it derives its +names. It is thickly studded with islands and its shores are low and +well wooded. The surrounding country as far as we could see is flat, +being destitute even of the moderate elevations which occur near the +upper part of Hill River. The weather was remarkably fine and the +setting sun threw the richest tints over the scene that I remember ever +to have witnessed. + +About half a mile from the bend, or _knee_, of the lake there is a +small rocky islet composed of magnetic iron ore which affects the +magnetic needle at a considerable distance. Having received previous +information respecting this circumstance we watched our compasses +carefully and perceived that they were affected at the distance of +three hundred yards both on the approach to and departure from the +rock: on decreasing the distance they became gradually more and more +unsteady and on landing they were rendered quite useless; and it was +evident that the general magnetic influence was totally overpowered by +the local attraction of the ore. When Kater’s compass was held near to +the ground on the North-West side of the island the needle dipped so +much that the card could not be made to traverse by any adjustment of +the hand; but on moving the same compass about thirty yards to the west +part of the islet the needle became horizontal, traversed freely, and +pointed to the magnetic north. The dipping needle, being landed on the +South-West point of the islet, was adjusted as nearly as possible on +the magnetic meridian by the sun’s bearings, and found to vibrate +freely when the face of the instrument was directed to the east or +west. The mean dip it gave was 80° 37′ 50″. When the instrument was +removed from the North-West to the South-East point about twenty yards +distant and placed on the meridian the needle ceased to traverse but +remained steady at an angle of 60°. On changing the face of the +instrument so as to give a South-East and North-West direction to the +needle it hung vertically. The position of the slaty strata of the +magnetic ore is also vertical. Their direction is extremely irregular, +being much contorted. + +Knee Lake towards its upper end becomes narrower and its rocky shores +are broken into conical and rounded eminences, destitute of soil, and +of course devoid of trees. We slept at the western extremity of the +lake, having come during the day nineteen miles and a half on a +South-West course. + +TROUT RIVER. + + +We began the ascent of Trout River early in the morning of the 27th and +in the course of the day passed three portages and several rapids. At +the first of these portages the river falls between two rocks about +sixteen feet and it is necessary to launch the boat over a precipitous +rocky bank. This cascade is named the _Trout-Fall_, and the beauty of +the scenery afforded a subject for Mr. Hood’s pencil. The rocks which +form the bed of this river are slaty and present sharp fragments by +which the feet of the boatmen are much lacerated. The Second Portage in +particular obtains the expressive name of _Knife Portage_. The length +of our voyage today was three miles. + +HOLY LAKE. + + +On the 28th we passed through the remainder of Trout River; and at noon +arrived at Oxford House on Holy Lake. This was formerly a post of some +consequence to the Hudson’s Bay Company but at present it exhibits +unequivocal signs of decay. The Indians have of late years been +gradually deserting the low or swampy country and ascending the +Saskatchewan where animals are more abundant. A few Crees were at this +time encamped in front of the fort. They were suffering under +whooping-cough and measles and looked miserably dejected. We +endeavoured in vain to prevail on one of them to accompany us for the +purpose of killing ducks which were numerous but too shy for our +sportsmen. We had the satisfaction however of exchanging the mouldy +pemmican obtained at Swampy Lake for a better kind, and received +moreover a small but very acceptable supply of fish. Holy Lake, viewed +from an eminence behind Oxford House, exhibits a pleasing prospect; and +its numerous islands, varying much in shape and elevation, contribute +to break that uniformity of scenery which proves so palling to a +traveller in this country. Trout of a great size, frequently exceeding +forty pounds’ weight, abound in this lake. We left Oxford House in the +afternoon and encamped on an island about eight miles distant, having +come during the day nine miles and a quarter. + +WEEPINAPANNIS RIVER. + + +At noon on the 29th, after passing through the remainder of Holy Lake, +we entered the Weepinapannis, a narrow grassy river which runs parallel +to the lake for a considerable distance and forms its south bank into a +narrow peninsula. In the morning we arrived at the Swampy Portage where +two of the boats were broken against the rocks. The length of the day’s +voyage was nineteen miles and a half. + +In consequence of the accident yesterday evening we were detained a +considerable time this morning until the boats were repaired, when we +set out and, after ascending a strong rapid, arrived at the portage by +John Moore’s Island. Here the river rushes with irresistible force +through the channels formed by two rocky islands; and we learned that +last year a poor man, in hauling a boat up one of these channels, was, +by the breaking of the line, precipitated into the stream and hurried +down the cascade with such rapidity that all efforts to save him were +ineffectual. His body was afterwards found and interred near the spot. + +The Weepinapannis is composed of several branches which separate and +unite again and again, intersecting the country in a great variety of +directions. + +WINDY LAKE. + + +We pursued the principal channel and, having passed the Crooked Spout +with several inferior rapids and crossed a small piece of water named +Windy Lake, we entered a smooth deep stream about three hundred yards +wide which has got the absurd appellation of the Rabbit Ground. The +marshy banks of this river are skirted by low barren rocks behind which +there are some groups of stunted trees. As we advanced the country, +becoming flatter, gradually opened to our view and we at length arrived +at a shallow, reedy lake, the direct course through which leads to the +Hill Portage. This route has however of late years been disused and we +therefore turned towards the north and, crossing a small arm of the +lake, arrived at Hill Gates by sunset; having come this day eleven +miles. + +October 1. + +Hill Gates is the name imposed on a romantic defile whose rocky walls, +rising perpendicularly to the height of sixty or eighty feet, hem in +the stream for three-quarters of a mile, in many places so narrowly +that there is a want of room to ply the oars. In passing through this +chasm we were naturally led to contemplate the mighty but probably slow +and gradual effects of the water in wearing down such vast masses of +rock; but in the midst of our speculations the attention was excited +anew to a grand and picturesque rapid which, surrounded by the most +wild and majestic scenery, terminated the defile. The brown +fishing-eagle had built its nest on one of the projecting cliffs. + +WHITE FALL LAKE AND RIVER. + + +In the course of the day we surmounted this and another dangerous +portage called the Upper and Lower Hill Gate Portages, crossed a small +sheet of water, termed the White Fall Lake and, entering the river of +the same name, arrived at the White Fall about an hour after sunset, +having come fourteen miles on a South-West course. + +The whole of the 2nd of October was spent in carrying the cargoes over +a portage of thirteen hundred yards in length and in launching the +empty boats over three several ridges of rock which obstruct the +channel and produce as many cascades. I shall long remember the rude +and characteristic wildness of the scenery which surrounded these +falls; rocks piled on rocks hung in rude and shapeless masses over the +agitated torrents which swept their bases, whilst the bright and +variegated tints of the mosses and lichens that covered the face of the +cliffs, contrasting with the dark green of the pines which crowned +their summits, added both beauty and grandeur to the scene. Our two +companions, Back and Hood, made accurate sketches of these falls. At +this place we observed a conspicuous _lop-stick_, a kind of landmark +which I have not hitherto noticed, notwithstanding its great use in +pointing out the frequented routes. It is a pine-tree divested of its +lower branches and having only a small tuft at the top remaining. This +operation is usually performed at the instance of some individual +emulous of fame. He treats his companions with rum and they in return +strip the tree of its branches and ever after designate it by his name. + +In the afternoon, whilst on my way to superintend the operations of the +men, a stratum of loose moss gave way under my feet and I had the +misfortune to slip from the summit of a rock into the river betwixt two +of the falls. My attempts to regain the bank were for a time +ineffectual owing to the rocks within my reach having been worn smooth +by the action of the water; but after I had been carried a considerable +distance down the stream I caught hold of a willow by which I held +until two gentlemen of the Hudson’s Bay Company came in a boat to my +assistance. The only bad consequence of this accident was an injury +sustained by a very valuable chronometer (Number 1733) belonging to +Daniel Moore, Esquire, of Lincoln’s Inn. One of the gentlemen to whom I +delivered it immediately on landing in his agitation let it fall, +whereby the minutehand was broken, but the works were not in the +smallest degree injured and the loss of the hand was afterwards +supplied. + +During the night the frost was severe; and at sunrise on the 3rd the +thermometer stood at 25°. After leaving our encampment at the White +Fall we passed through several small lakes connected with each other by +narrow, deep, grassy streams, and at noon arrived at the Painted Stone. +Numbers of muskrats frequent these streams; and we observed in the +course of the morning many of their mud-houses rising in a conical form +to the height of two or three feet above the grass of the swamps in +which they were built. + +The Painted Stone is a low rock, ten or twelve yards across, remarkable +for the marshy streams which arise on each side of it, taking different +courses. On the one side the watercourse which we had navigated from +York Factory commences. This spot may therefore be considered as one of +the smaller sources of Hayes River. + +ECHEMAMIS AND SEA RIVERS. + + +On the other side of the stone the Echemamis rises and, taking a +westerly direction, falls into Nelson River. It is said that there was +formerly a stone placed near the centre of this portage on which +figures were annually traced and offerings deposited by the Indians; +but the stone has been removed many years and the spot has ceased to be +held in veneration. Here we were overtaken by Governor Williams who +left York Factory on the 20th of last month in an Indian canoe. He +expressed much regret at our having been obliged to leave part of our +stores at the Rock depôt, and would have brought them up with him had +he been able to procure and man a boat, or a canoe, of sufficient size. + +Having launched the boats over the rock we commenced the descent of the +Echemamis. This small stream has its course through a morass and in dry +seasons its channel contains, instead of water, merely a foot or two of +thin mud. On these occasions it is customary to build dams that it may +be rendered navigable by the accumulation of its waters. As the beavers +perform this operation very effectually endeavours have been made to +encourage them to breed in this place, but it has not hitherto been +possible to restrain the Indians from killing that useful animal +whenever they discover its retreats. On the present occasion there was +no want of water, the principal impediment we experienced being from +the narrowness of the channel, which permitted the willows of each bank +to meet over our heads and obstruct the men at the oars. After +proceeding down the stream for some time we came to a +recently-constructed beaver dam through which an opening was made +sufficient to admit the boat to pass. We were assured that the breach +would be closed by the industrious creature in a single night. We +encamped about eight miles from the source of the river, having come +during the day seventeen miles and a half. + +On the 4th we embarked amidst a heavy rain and pursued our route down +the Echemamis. In many parts of the morass by which the river is +nourished and through which it flows, is intersected by ridges of rock +which cross the channel and require the boat to be lifted over them. In +the afternoon we passed through a shallow piece of water overgrown with +bulrushes and hence named Hairy Lake; and in the evening encamped on +the banks of Blackwater Creek, by which this lake empties itself into +Sea River; having come during the day twenty miles and three-quarters. + +On the morning of the 5th we entered Sea River, one of the many +branches of Nelson River. It is about four hundred yards wide and its +waters are of a muddy white colour. After ascending the stream for an +hour or two and passing through Carpenter’s Lake, which is merely an +expansion of the river to about a mile in breadth, we came to the Sea +River Portage where the boat was launched across a smooth rock to avoid +a fall of four or five feet. + +PLAY GREEN LAKES. + + +Reembarking at the upper end of the portage we ran before a fresh gale +through the remainder of Sea River, the lower part of Play Green Lake +and, entering Little Jack River, landed and pitched our tents. Here +there is a small log hut, the residence of a fisherman who supplies +Norway House with trout and sturgeon. He gave us a few of these fish +which afforded an acceptable supper. Our voyage this day was +thirty-four miles. + +October 6. + +Little Jack River is the name given to a channel that winds among +several large islands which separate Upper and Lower Play Green Lakes. +At the lower end of this channel Big Jack River, a stream of +considerable magnitude, falls into the lake. Play Green is a +translation of the appellation given to that lake by two bands of +Indians who met and held a festival on an island situated near its +centre. After leaving our encampment we sailed through Upper Play Green +Lake and arrived at Norway Point in the forenoon. + +LAKE WINNIPEG. + + +The waters of Lake Winnipeg and of the rivers that run into it, the +Saskatchewan in particular, are rendered turbid by the suspension of a +large quantity of white clay. Play Green Lake and Nelson River, being +the discharges of the Winnipeg, are equally opaque, a circumstance that +renders the sunken rocks, so frequent in these waters, very dangerous +to boats in a fresh breeze. Owing to this one of the boats that +accompanied us, sailing at the rate of seven miles an hour, struck upon +one of these rocks. Its mast was carried away by the shock but +fortunately no other damage sustained. The Indians ascribe the +muddiness of these lakes to an adventure of one of their deities, a +mischievous fellow, a sort of Robin Puck, whom they hold in very little +esteem. This deity, who is named Weesakootchaht, possesses considerable +power but makes a capricious use of it and delights in tormenting the +poor Indians. He is not however invincible and was foiled in one of his +attempts by the artifice of an old woman who succeeded in taking him +captive. She called in all the women of the tribe to aid in his +punishment, and he escaped from their hands in a condition so filthy +that it required all the waters of the Great Lake to wash him clean; +and ever since that period it has been entitled to the appellation of +Winnipeg, or Muddy water. + +Norway Point forms the extremity of a narrow peninsula which separates +Play Green and Winnipeg Lakes. Buildings were first erected here by a +party of Norwegians who were driven away from the colony at Red River +by the commotions which took place some time ago. It is now a trading +post belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company. On landing at Norway House +we met with Lord Selkirk’s colonists who had started from York Factory +the day before us. These poor people were exceedingly pleased at +meeting with us again in this wild country; having accompanied them +across the Atlantic they viewed us in the light of old acquaintances. +This post was under the charge of Mr. James Sutherland, to whom I am +indebted for replacing a minutehand on the chronometer which was broken +at the White Fall, and I had afterwards the satisfaction of finding +that it went with extraordinary regularity. + +The morning of the 7th October was beautifully clear and the +observations we obtained place Norway House in latitude 53° 41′ 38″ +North, and longitude 98° 1′ 24″ West; the variation of the magnetic +needle 14° 12′ 41″ East, and its dip 83° 40′ 10″. Though our route from +York Factory has rather inclined to the South-West the dip, it will be +perceived, has gradually increased. The difference produced by +reversing the face of the instrument was 7° 39′. There was too much +wind to admit of our observing with any degree of accuracy the quantity +of the magnetic force. + +We left Norway House soon after noon and, the wind being favourable, +sailed along the northern shore of Lake Winnipeg the whole of the +ensuing night; and on the morning of the 8th landed on a narrow ridge +of sand which, running out twenty miles to the westward, separates +Limestone Bay from the body of the Lake. When the wind blows hard from +the southward it is customary to carry boats across this isthmus and to +pull up under its lee. From Norwegian Point to Limestone Bay the shore +consists of high clay cliffs against which the waves beat with violence +during strong southerly winds. When the wind blows from the land and +the waters of the lake are low a narrow sandy beach is uncovered and +affords a landing-place for boats. The shores of Limestone Bay are +covered with small fragments of calcareous stones. During the night the +Aurora Borealis was quick in its motions and various and vivid in its +colours. After breakfasting we reembarked and continued our voyage +until three P.M., when a strong westerly wind arising we were obliged +to shelter ourselves on a small island which lies near the extremity of +the above-mentioned peninsula. This island is formed of a collection of +small rolled pieces of limestone and was remembered by some of our +boatman to have been formerly covered with water. For the last ten or +twelve years the waters of the lake have been low, but our information +did not enable us to judge whether the decrease was merely casual, or +going on continually, or periodical. The distance of this island from +Norway House is thirty-eight miles and a half. + +RIVER SASKATCHEWAN. + + +The westerly winds detained us all the morning of the 9th but at two +P.M. the wind chopped round to the eastward; we immediately embarked +and the breeze afterwards freshening we reached the mouth of the +Saskatchewan at midnight having run thirty-two miles. + +Sunday, October 10. + +The whole of this day was occupied in getting the boats from the mouth +of the river to the foot of the grand rapid, a distance of two miles. +There are several rapids in this short distance during which the river +varies its breadth from five hundred yards to half a mile. Its channel +is stony. At the grand rapid the Saskatchewan forms a sudden bend from +south to east and works its way through a narrow channel deeply worn +into the limestone strata. The stream, rushing with impetuous force +over a rocky and uneven bottom, presents a sheet of foam and seems to +bear with impatience the straightened confinement of its lofty banks. A +flock of pelicans and two or three brown fishing-eagles were fishing in +its agitated waters, seemingly with great success. There is a good +sturgeon fishery at the foot of the rapid. Several golden plovers, +Canadian grosbeaks, crossbills, woodpeckers and pin-tailed grouse were +shot today; and Mr. Back killed a small striped marmot. This beautiful +little animal was busily employed in carrying in its distended pouches +the seeds of the American vetch to its winter hoards. + +The portage is eighteen hundred yards long and its western extremity +was found to be in 53° 08′ 25″ North latitude and 99° 28′ 02″ West +longitude. The route from Canada to the Athabasca joins that from York +Factory at the mouth of the Saskatchewan, and we saw traces of a recent +encampment of the Canadian voyagers. Our companions in the Hudson’s Bay +boats, dreading an attack from their rivals in trade, were on the alert +at this place. They examined minutely the spot of encampment to form a +judgment of the number of canoes that had preceded them; and they +advanced, armed, and with great caution, through the woods. Their fears +however on this occasion were fortunately groundless. + +By noon on the 12th, the boats and their cargoes having been conveyed +across the portage, we embarked and pursued our course. The +Saskatchewan becomes wider above the Grand Rapid and the scenery +improves. The banks are high, composed of white clay and limestone, and +their summits are richly clothed with a variety of firs, poplars, +birches and willows. The current runs with great rapidity and the +channel is in many places intricate and dangerous from broken ridges of +rock jutting into the stream. We pitched our tents at the entrance of +Cross Lake, having advanced only five miles and a half. + +CROSS, CEDAR AND PINE ISLAND LAKES. + + +Cross Lake is extensive, running towards the north-east it is said for +forty miles. We crossed it at a narrow part and, pulling through +several winding channels formed by a group of islands, entered Cedar +Lake which, next to Lake Winnipeg, is the largest sheet of fresh water +we had hitherto seen. Ducks and geese resort hither in immense flocks +in the spring and autumn. These birds are now beginning to go off owing +to its muddy shores having become quite hard through the nightly +frosts. At this place the Aurora Borealis was extremely brilliant in +the night, its coruscations darting at times over the whole sky and +assuming various prismatic tints of which the violet and yellow were +predominant. + +After pulling, on the 14th, seven miles and a quarter on the lake, a +violent wind drove us for shelter to a small island, or rather a ridge +of rolled stones thrown up by the frequent storms which agitate this +lake. The weather did not moderate the whole day and we were obliged to +pass the night on this exposed spot. The delay however enabled us to +obtain some lunar observations. The wind having subsided we left our +resting place the following morning, crossed the remainder of the lake, +and in the afternoon arrived at Muddy Lake which is very appropriately +named as it consists merely of a few channels winding amongst extensive +mudbanks which are overflowed during the spring floods. We landed at an +Indian tent which contained two numerous families amounting to thirty +souls. These poor creatures were badly clothed and reduced to a +miserable condition by the whooping-cough and measles. At the time of +our arrival they were busy in preparing a sweating-house for the sick. +This is a remedy which they consider, with the addition of singing and +drumming, to be the grand specific for all diseases. Our companions +having obtained some geese in exchange for rum and tobacco, we +proceeded a few more miles and encamped on Devil’s Drum Island, having +come during the day twenty miles and a half. A second party of Indians +were encamped on an adjoining island, a situation chosen for the +purpose of killing geese and ducks. + +On the 16th we proceeded eighteen miles up the Saskatchewan. Its banks +are low, covered with willows, and lined with drift timber. The +surrounding country is swampy and intersected by the numerous arms of +the river. After passing for twenty or thirty yards through the willow +thicket on the banks of the stream we entered an extensive marsh, +varied only by a distant line of willows which marks the course of a +creek or branch of the river. The branch we navigated today is almost +five hundred yards wide. The exhalations from the marshy soil produced +a low fog although the sky above was perfectly clear. In the course of +the day we passed an Indian encampment of three tents whose inmates +appeared to be in a still more miserable condition than those we saw +yesterday. They had just finished the ceremony of conjuration over some +of their sick companions; and a dog which had been recently killed as a +sacrifice to some deity was hanging to a tree where it would be left (I +was told) when they moved their encampment. + +We continued our voyage up the river to the 20th with little variation +of scenery or incident, travelling in that time about thirty miles. The +near approach of winter was marked by severe frosts which continued all +day unless when the sun chanced to be unusually bright and the geese +and ducks were observed to take a southerly course in large flocks. On +the morning of the 20th we came to a party of Indians encamped behind +the bank of the river on the borders of a small marshy lake for the +purpose of killing waterfowl. Here we were gratified with the view of a +very large tent. Its length was about forty feet, its breadth eighteen, +and its covering was moose-deer leather with apertures for the escape +of the smoke from the fires which are placed at each end; a ledge of +wood was placed on the ground on both sides the whole length of the +tent, within which were the sleeping-places, arranged probably +according to families; and the drums and other instruments of +enchantment were piled up in the centre. Amongst the Indians there were +a great many half-breeds who led an Indian life. Governor Williams gave +a dram and a piece of tobacco to each of the males of the party. + +On the morning of the 21st a heavy fall of snow took place which lasted +until two in the afternoon. In the evening we left the Saskatchewan and +entered the Little River, one of the two streams by which Pine Island +Lake discharges its waters. We advanced today fourteen miles and a +quarter. On the 22nd the weather was extremely cold and stormy and we +had to contend against a strong head wind. The spray froze as it fell +and the oars were so loaded with ice as to be almost unmanageable. The +length of our voyage this day was eleven miles. + +CUMBERLAND HOUSE. + + +The following morning was very cold; we embarked at daylight and pulled +across a part of Pine Island Lake about three miles and a half to +Cumberland House. The margin of the lake was so encrusted with ice that +we had to break through a considerable space of it to approach the +landing-place. When we considered that this was the effect of only a +few days’ frost at the commencement of winter we were convinced of the +impractibility of advancing further by water this season, and therefore +resolved on accepting Governor Williams’ kind invitation to remain with +him at this post. We immediately visited Mr. Connolly, the resident +partner of the North-West Company, and presented to him Mr. +McGillivray’s circular letter. He assured us that he should be most +desirous to forward our progress by every means in his power, and we +subsequently had ample proofs of his sincerity and kindness. The +unexpected addition of our party to the winter residents at this post +rendered an increase of apartments necessary; and our men were +immediately appointed to complete and arrange an unfinished building as +speedily as possible. + +November 8. + +Some mild weather succeeded to the severe frosts we had at our arrival; +and the lake had not been entirely frozen before the 6th; but this +morning the ice was sufficiently firm to admit of sledges crossing it. +The dogs were harnessed at a very early hour and the winter operations +commenced by sending for a supply of fish from Swampy River where men +had been stationed to collect it just before the frost set in. Both men +and dogs appeared to enjoy the change; they started in full glee and +drove rapidly along. An Indian who had come to the house on the +preceding evening to request some provision for his family, whom he +represented to be in a state of starvation, accompanied them. His party +had been suffering greatly under the epidemic diseases of +whooping-cough and measles; and the hunters were still in too +debilitated a state to go out and provide them with meat. A supply was +given to him and the men were directed to bring his father, an old and +faithful hunter, to the house, that he might have the comforts of +nourishment and warmth. He was brought accordingly but these attentions +were unavailing as he died a few days afterwards. Two days before his +death I was surprised to observe him sitting for nearly three hours, in +a piercingly sharp day, in the saw-pit, employed in gathering the dust +and throwing it by handfuls over his body, which was naked to the +waist. As the man was in possession of his mental faculties I conceived +he was performing some devotional act preparatory to his departure, +which he felt to be approaching and, induced by the novelty of the +incident, I went twice to observe him more closely; but when he +perceived that he was noticed he immediately ceased his operation, hung +down his head and, by his demeanour, intimated that he considered my +appearance an intrusion. The residents at the fort could give me no +information on the subject and I could not learn that the Indians in +general observe any particular ceremony on the approach of death. + +November 15. + +The sky had been overcast during the last week; the sun shone forth +once only and then not sufficiently for the purpose of obtaining +observations. Faint coruscations of the Aurora Borealis appeared one +evening but their presence did not in the least affect the electrometer +or the compass. The ice daily became thicker in the lake and the frost +had now nearly overpowered the rapid current of the Saskatchewan River; +indeed parties of men who were sent from both the forts to search for +the Indians and procure whatever skins and provisions they might have +collected crossed that stream this day on the ice. The white partridges +made their first appearance near the house, which birds are considered +as the infallible harbingers of severe weather. + +Monday, November 22. + +The Saskatchewan and every other river were now completely covered with +ice except a small stream not far from the fort through which the +current ran very powerfully. In the course of the week we removed into +the house our men had prepared since our arrival. We found it at first +extremely cold notwithstanding that a good fire was kept in each +apartment and we frequently experienced the extremes of heat and cold +on opposite sides of the body. + +November 24. + +We obtained observations for the dip of the needle and intensity of the +magnetic force in a spare room. The dip was 83° 9′ 45″ and the +difference produced by reversing the face of the instrument 13° 3′ 6″. +When the needle was faced to the west it hung nearly perpendicular. The +Aurora Borealis had been faintly visible for a short time the preceding +evening. Some Indians arrived in search of provision having been +totally incapacitated from hunting by sickness; the poor creatures +looked miserably ill and they represented their distress to have been +extreme. Few recitals are more affecting than those of their sufferings +during unfavourable seasons and in bad situations for hunting and +fishing. Many assurances have been given me that men and women are yet +living who have been reduced to feed upon the bodies of their own +family to prevent actual starvation; and a shocking case was cited to +us of a woman who had been principal agent in the destruction of +several persons, and amongst the number her husband and nearest +relatives, in order to support life. + +November 28. + +The atmosphere had been clear every day during the last week, about the +end of which snow fell, when the thermometer rose from 20° below to 16° +above zero. The Aurora Borealis was twice visible but faint on both +occasions. Its appearance did not affect the electrometer nor could we +perceive the compass to be disturbed. + +The men brought supplies of moose meat from the hunter’s tent which is +pitched near the Basquiau Hill, forty or fifty miles from the house and +whence the greatest part of the meat is procured. The residents have to +send nearly the same distance for their fish and on this service +horse-sledges are used. Nets are daily set in Pine Island Lake which +occasionally procure some fine sturgeon, tittameg and trout, but not +more than sufficient to supply the officers’ table. + +December 1. + +This day was so remarkably fine that we procured another set of +observations for the dip of the needle in the open air; the instrument +being placed firmly on a rock the results gave 83° 14′ 22″. The change +produced by reversing the face of the instrument was 12° 50′ 55″. + +There had been a determined thaw during the last three days. The ice on +the Saskatchewan River and some parts of the lake broke up and the +travelling across either became dangerous. On this account the absence +of Wilks, one of our men, caused no small anxiety. He had incautiously +undertaken the conduct of a sledge and dogs in company with a person +going to Swampy River for fish. On their return, being unaccustomed to +driving, he became fatigued and seated himself on his sledge where his +companion left him, presuming that he would soon rise and hasten to +follow his track. He however returned safe in the morning and reported +that, foreseeing night would set in before he could get across the +lake, he prudently retired into the woods before dark where he remained +until daylight, when the men who had been despatched to look for him +met him returning to the house, shivering with cold, he having been +unprovided with the materials for lighting a fire, which an experienced +voyager never neglects to carry. + +We had mild weather until the 20th of December. On the 13th there had +been a decided thaw that caused the Saskatchewan, which had again +frozen, to reopen and the passage across it was interrupted for two +days. We now received more agreeable accounts from the Indians who were +recovering strength and beginning to hunt a little; but it was +generally feared that their spirits had been so much depressed by the +loss of their children and relatives that the season would be far +advanced before they could be roused to any exertion in searching for +animals beyond what might be necessary for their own support. It is +much to be regretted that these poor men, during their long intercourse +with Europeans, have not been taught how pernicious is the grief which +produces total inactivity, and that they have not been furnished with +any of the consolations which the Christian religion never fails to +afford. This however could hardly have been expected from persons who +have permitted their own offspring the half-casts to remain in +lamentable ignorance on a subject of such vital importance. It is +probable however that an improvement will soon take place among the +latter class, as Governor Williams proposes to make the children attend +a Sunday school and has already begun to have divine service performed +at his post. + +The conversations which I had with the gentlemen in charge of these +posts convinced me of the necessity of proceeding during the winter +into the Athabasca department, the residents of which are best +acquainted with the nature and resources of the country to the north of +the Great Slave Lake; and whence only guides, hunters and interpreters +can be procured. I had previously written to the partners of the +North-West Company in that quarter requesting their assistance in +forwarding the Expedition and stating what we should require. But, on +reflecting upon the accidents that might delay these letters on the +road, I determined on proceeding to the Athabasca as soon as I possibly +could, and communicated my intention to Governor Williams and Mr. +Connolly with a request that I might be furnished by the middle of +January with the means of conveyance for three persons, intending that +Mr. Back and Hepburn should accompany me whilst Dr. Richardson and Mr. +Hood remained till the spring at Cumberland House. + +After the 20th of December the weather became cold, the thermometer +constantly below zero. Christmas Day was particularly stormy but the +gale did not prevent the full enjoyment of the festivities which are +annually given at Cumberland House on this day. All the men who had +been despatched to different parts in search of provision or furs +returned to the fort on the occasion and were regaled with a +substantial dinner and a dance in the evening. + +January 1, 1820. + +The New Year was ushered in by repeated discharges of musketry; a +ceremony which has been observed by the men of both the trading +Companies for many years. Our party dined with Mr. Connolly and were +treated with a beaver which we found extremely delicate. In the evening +his voyagers were entertained with a dance in which the Canadians +exhibited some grace and much agility; and they contrived to infuse +some portion of their activity and spirits into the steps of their +female companions. The half-breed women are passionately fond of this +amusement but a stranger would imagine the contrary on witnessing their +apparent want of animation. On such occasions they affect a sobriety of +demeanour which I understand to be very opposite to their general +character. + +January 10. + +This day I wrote to Governor Williams and Mr. Connolly requesting them +to prepare two canoes with crews and appointments for the conveyance of +Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, with our stores, to Chipewyan as soon as +the navigation should open, and had the satisfaction of receiving from +both these gentlemen renewed assurances of their desire to promote the +objects of the Expedition. I conceived it to be necessary, previous to +my departure, to make some arrangement respecting the men who were +engaged at Stromness. Only one of them was disposed to extend his +engagement and proceed beyond the Athabasca Lake and, as there was much +uncertainty whether the remaining three could get from the Athabasca to +York Factory sufficiently early to secure them a passage in the next +Hudson’s Bay ship, I resolved not to take them forward unless Dr. +Richardson and Mr. Hood should fail in procuring other men from these +establishments next spring, but to despatch them down to York to bring +up our stores to this place: after which they might return to the coast +in time to secure their passage in the first ship. + +I delivered to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood a memorandum containing the +arrangements which had been made with the two Companies respecting +their being forwarded in the spring, and some other points of +instruction for their guidance in my absence together with directions +to forward the map of our route which had been finished, since our +arrival, by Mr. Hood, the drawing and the collections of natural +history by the first opportunity to York Factory for conveyance to +England.[3] + + [3] As Samuel Wilks, who had accompanied the Expedition from England, + proved to be quite unequal to the fatigue of the journey I directed + him to be discharged in the spring and sent to England by the next + ship. + + +The houses of the two Companies at this post are situated close to each +other at the upper extremity of a narrow island which separates Pine +Island Lake from the Saskatchewan River, and are about two miles and +three-quarters from the latter in a northern direction. They are +log-houses, built without much regard to comfort, surrounded by lofty +stockades and flanked with wooden bastions. The difficulty of conveying +glass into the interior has precluded its use in the windows where its +place is poorly supplied by parchment, imperfectly made by the native +women from the skin of the reindeer. Should this post however continue +to be the residence of Governor Williams it will be much improved in a +few years, as he is devoting his attention to that point. The land +around Cumberland House is low but the soil, from having a considerable +intermixture of limestone, is good and capable of producing abundance +of corn and vegetables of every description. Many kinds of pot-herbs +have already been brought to some perfection and the potatoes bid fair +to equal those of England. The spontaneous productions of nature would +afford ample nourishment for all the European animals. Horses feed +extremely well even during the winter and so would oxen if provided +with hay which might be easily done.[4] Pigs also improve but require +to be kept warm in the winter. Hence it appears that the residents +might easily render themselves far less dependent on the Indians for +support and be relieved from the great anxiety which they too often +suffer when the hunters are unsuccessful. The neighbourhood of the +houses has been much cleared of wood from the great demand for fuel; +there is therefore little to admire in the surrounding scenery, +especially in its winter garb; few animated objects occur to enliven +the scene; an occasional fox, marten, rabbit or wolf and a few birds +contribute the only variety. The birds which remained were ravens, +magpies, partridges, crossbills and woodpeckers. In this universal +stillness the residents at a post feel little disposed to wander abroad +except when called forth by their occupations; and as ours were of a +kind best performed in a warm room we imperceptibly acquired a +sedentary habit. In going out however we never suffered the slightest +inconvenience from the change of temperature though the thermometer in +the open air stood occasionally thirty degrees below zero. + + [4] The wild buffalo scrapes away the snow with its feet to get at the + herbage beneath, and the horse, which was introduced by the Spanish + invaders of Mexico and may be said to have become naturalised, does + the same; but it is worthy of remark that the ox more lately brought + from Europe has not yet acquired an art so necessary for procuring its + food. Extract from Dr. Richardson’s Journal. + + +The tribe of Indians who reside in the vicinity and frequent these +establishments is that of the Crees, or Knisteneaux. They were formerly +a powerful and numerous nation which ranged over a very extensive +country and were very successful in their predatory excursions against +their neighbours, particularly the northern Indians and some tribes on +the Saskatchewan and Beaver Rivers; but they have long ceased to be +held in any fear and are now perhaps the most harmless and inoffensive +of the whole Indian race. This change is entirely to be attributed to +their intercourse with Europeans; and the vast reduction in their +numbers occasioned, I fear, principally by the injudicious introduction +of ardent spirits. They are so passionately fond of this poison that +they will make any sacrifice to obtain it. They are good hunters and in +general active. Having laid the bow and arrow altogether aside and the +use of snares, except for rabbits and partridges, they depend entirely +on the Europeans for the means of gaining subsistence as they require +guns and a constant supply of powder and shot; so that these Indians +are probably more completely under the power of the trader than any of +the other tribes. As I only saw a few straggling parties of them during +short intervals, and under unfavourable circumstances of sickness and +famine, I am unable to give from personal observation any detail of +their manners and customs; and must refer the reader to Dr. +Richardson’s account of them in the following chapter. That gentleman +during his longer residence at the post had many opportunities of +seeing them and acquiring their language. + +January 17. + +This morning the sporting part of our society had rather a novel +diversion: intelligence having been brought that a wolf had borne away +a steel trap in which he had been caught, a party went in search of the +marauder and took two English bulldogs and a terrier which had been +brought into the country this season. On the first sight of the animal +the dogs became alarmed and stood barking at a distance, and probably +would not have ventured to advance had they not seen the wolf fall by a +shot from one of the gentlemen; they then however went up and behaved +courageously, and were enraged by the bites they received. The wolf +soon died of its wounds and the body was brought to the house where a +drawing of it was taken by Mr. Hood and the skin preserved by Dr. +Richardson. Its general features bore a strong resemblance to many of +the dogs about the fort, but it was larger and had a more ferocious +aspect. Mr. Back and I were too much occupied in preparing for our +departure on the following day to join this excursion. + +The position of Cumberland House by our observations is latitude 53° +56′ 40″ North; longitude 102° 16′ 41″ West by the chronometers; +variations 17° 17′ 29″ East; dip of the needle 83° 12′ 50″. The whole +of the travelling distance between York Factory and Cumberland House is +about six hundred and ninety miles. + + + + +CHAPTER 3. + +DR. RICHARDSON’S RESIDENCE AT CUMBERLAND HOUSE. HIS ACCOUNT OF THE CREE +INDIANS. + + +DR. RICHARDSON’S RESIDENCE AT CUMBERLAND HOUSE. + + +January 19, 1820. + +From the departure of Messrs. Franklin and Back on the 19th of January +for Chipewyan until the opening of the navigation in the spring the +occurrences connected with the Expedition were so much in the ordinary +routine of a winter’s residence at Fort Cumberland that they may be +perhaps appropriately blended with the following general but brief +account of that district and its inhabitants. + +Cumberland House was originally built by Hearne, a year or two after +his return from the Copper-Mine River, and has ever since been +considered by the Hudson’s Bay Company as a post of considerable +importance. Previous to that time the natives carried their furs down +to the shores of Hudson’s Bay or disposed of them nearer home to the +French Canadian traders who visited this part of the country as early +as the year 1697. + +The Cumberland House district, extending about one hundred and fifty +miles from east to west along the banks of the Saskatchewan, and about +as far from north to south, comprehends, on a rough calculation, +upwards of twenty thousand square miles, and is frequented at present +by about one hundred and twenty Indian hunters. Of these a few have +several wives but the majority only one; and as some are unmarried we +shall not err greatly in considering the number of married women as +only slightly exceeding that of the hunters. The women marry very +young, have a custom of suckling their children for several years, and +are besides exposed constantly to fatigue and often to famine; hence +they are not prolific, bearing upon an average not more than four +children, of whom two may attain the age of puberty. Upon these data +the amount of each family may be stated at five, and the whole Indian +population in the district at five hundred. + +This is but a small population for such an extent of country, yet their +mode of life occasionally subjects them to great privations. The winter +of our residence at Cumberland House proved extremely severe to the +Indians. The whooping-cough made its appearance amongst them in the +autumn, and was followed by the measles which, in the course of the +winter, spread through the tribe. Many died and most of the survivors +were so enfeebled as to be unable to pursue the necessary avocations of +hunting and fishing. Even those who experienced only a slight attack, +or escaped the sickness altogether, dispirited by the scenes of misery +which environed them, were rendered incapable of affording relief to +their distressed relations and spent their time in conjuring and +drumming to avert the pestilence. Those who were able came to the fort +and received relief, but many who had retired with their families to +distant corners to pursue their winter hunts experienced all the +horrors of famine. One evening early in the month of January a poor +Indian entered the North-West Company’s House, carrying his only child +in his arms and followed by his starving wife. They had been hunting +apart from the other bands, had been unsuccessful and, whilst in want, +were seized with the epidemical disease. An Indian is accustomed to +starve and it is not easy to elicit from him an account of his +sufferings. This poor man’s story was very brief; as soon as the fever +abated he set out with his wife for Cumberland House, having been +previously reduced to feed on the bits of skin and offal which remained +about their encampment. Even this miserable fare was exhausted and they +walked several days without eating, yet exerting themselves far beyond +their strength that they might save the life of the infant. It died +almost within sight of the house. Mr. Connolly, who was then in charge +of the post, received them with the utmost humanity and instantly +placed food before them; but no language can describe the manner in +which the miserable father dashed the morsel from his lips and deplored +the loss of his child. Misery may harden a disposition naturally bad +but it never fails to soften the heart of a good man. + +HIS ACCOUNT OF THE CREE INDIANS. + + +The _origin_ of the Crees, to which nation the Cumberland House Indians +belong, is, like that of the other aborigines of America, involved in +obscurity; but the researches now making into the nature and affinities +of the languages spoken by the different Indian tribes may eventually +throw some light on the subject. Indeed the American philologists seem +to have succeeded already in classing the known dialects into three +languages: + +1. The Floridean, spoken by the Creeks, Chickesaws, Choctaws, +Cherokees, Pascagoulas, and some other tribes who inhabit the southern +parts of the United States. + +2. The Iroquois, spoken by the Mengwe, or Six Nations, the Wyandots, +the Nadowessies, and Asseeneepoytuck. + +3. The Lenni-lenape, spoken by a great family more widely spread than +the other two and from which, together with a vast number of other +tribes, are sprung our Crees. Mr. Heckewelder, a missionary who resided +long amongst these people and from whose paper (published in the +_Transactions of the American Philosophical Society_,) the above +classification is taken, states that the Lenape have a tradition +amongst them of their ancestors having come from the westward and taken +possession of the whole country from the Missouri to the Atlantic, +after driving away or destroying the original inhabitants of the land +whom they termed Alligewi. In this migration and contest, which endured +for a series of years, the Mengwe, or Iroquois, kept pace with them, +moving in a parallel but more northerly line, and finally settling on +the banks of the St. Lawrence and the great lakes from whence it flows. +The Lenape, being more numerous, peopled not only the greater part of +the country at present occupied by the United States, but also sent +detachments to the northward as far as the banks of the River +Mississippi and the shores of Hudson’s Bay. The principal of their +northern tribes are now known under the names of Saulteurs or +Chippeways, and Crees; the former inhabiting the country betwixt Lakes +Winnipeg and Superior, the latter frequenting the shores of Hudson’s +Bay from Moose to Churchill, and the country from thence as far to the +westward as the plains which lie betwixt the forks of the Saskatchewan. + +The Crees, formerly known by the French Canadian traders under the +appellation of Knisteneaux, generally designate themselves as +Eithinyoowuc (_men_) or, when they wish to discriminate themselves from +the other Indian nations, as Nathehwywithinyoowuc (_Southern-men_).[5] + + [5] Much confusion has arisen from the great variety of names applied + without discrimination to the various tribes of Saulteurs and Crees. + Heckewelder considers the Crees of Moose Factory to be a branch of + that tribe of the Lenape which is named Minsi, or Wolf Tribe. He has + been led to form this opinion from the similarity of the name given to + these people by Monsieur Jeremie, namely, Monsonies; but the truth is + that their real name is Mongsoaeythinyoowuc, or Moose-deer Indians; + hence the name of the factory and river on which it is built. The name + Knisteneaux, Kristeneaux, or Killisteneaux, was anciently applied to a + tribe of Crees, now termed Maskegons, who inhabit the river Winnipeg. + This small tribe still retains the peculiarities of customs and dress + for which it was remarkable many years ago, as mentioned by Mr. Henry + in the interesting account of his journeys in these countries. They + are said to be great rascals. The great body of the Crees were at that + time named Opimmitish Ininiwuc, or Men of the Woods. It would however + be an endless task to attempt to determine the precise people + designated by the early French writers. Every small band naming itself + from its hunting grounds was described as a different nation. The + Chippeways who frequented the Lake of the Woods were named from a + particular act of pillage Pilliers, or Robbers: and the name + Saulteurs, applied to a principal band that frequented the Sault St. + Marie, has been by degrees extended to the whole tribe. It is + frequently pronounced and written _Sotoos_. + + +The original character of the Crees must have been much modified by +their long intercourse with Europeans; hence it is to be understood +that we confine ourselves in the following sketch to their present +condition, and more particularly to the Crees of Cumberland House. The +moral character of a hunter is acted upon by the nature of the land he +inhabits, the abundance or scarcity of food, and we may add, in the +present case, his means of access to spiritous liquors. In a country so +various in these respects as that inhabited by the Crees the causes +alluded to must operate strongly in producing a considerable difference +of character amongst the various hordes. It may be proper to bear in +mind also that we are about to draw the character of a people whose +only rule of conduct is public opinion and to try them by a morality +founded on divine revelation, the only standard that can be referred to +by those who have been educated in a land to which the blessings of the +Gospel have extended. + +Bearing these considerations in mind then we may state the Crees to be +a vain, fickle, improvident, and indolent race, and not very strict in +their adherence to truth, being great boasters; but on the other hand +they strictly regard the rights of property,[6] are susceptible of the +kinder affections, capable of friendship, very hospitable, tolerably +kind to their women, and withal inclined to peace. + + [6] This is perhaps true of the Cumberland House Crees alone: many of + the other tribes of Crees are stated by the traders to be thieves. + + +Much of the faulty part of their character no doubt originates in their +mode of life; accustomed as a hunter to depend greatly on chance for +his subsistence the Cree takes little thought of tomorrow; and the most +offensive part of his behaviour—the habit of boasting—has been probably +assumed as a necessary part of his armour which operates upon the fears +of his enemies. They are countenanced however in this failing by the +practice of the ancient Greeks, and perhaps by that of every other +nation in its ruder state. Every Cree fears the medical or conjuring +powers of his neighbour, but at the same time exalts his own +attainments to the skies. “I am God-like,” is a common expression +amongst them, and they prove their divinity-ship by eating live coals +and by various tricks of a similar nature. A medicine bag is an +indispensable part of a hunter’s equipment. It is generally furnished +with a little bit of indigo, blue vitriol, vermilion, or some other +showy article, and is, when in the hands of a noted conjurer, such an +object of terror to the rest of the tribe that its possessor is enabled +to fatten at his ease upon the labours of his deluded countrymen. + +A fellow of this description came to Cumberland House in the winter of +1819. Notwithstanding the then miserable state of the Indians the +rapacity of this wretch had been preying upon their necessities, and a +poor hunter was actually at the moment pining away under the influence +of his threats. The mighty conjurer, immediately on his arrival at the +House, began to trumpet forth his powers, boasting among other things +that, although his hands and feet were tied as securely as possible +yet, when placed in a conjuring house, he would speedily disengage +himself by the aid of two or three familiar spirits who were attendant +on his call. He was instantly taken at his word and, that his exertions +might not be without an aim, a _capot_ or great coat was promised as +the reward of his success. A conjuring-house having been erected in the +usual form, that is by sticking four willows in the ground and tying +their tops to a hoop at the height of six or eight feet, he was +fettered completely by winding several fathoms of rope round his body +and extremities and placed in its narrow apartment, not exceeding two +feet in diameter. A moose-skin being then thrown over the frame +secluded him from our view. He forthwith began to chant a kind of hymn +in a very monotonous tone. The rest of the Indians, who seemed in some +doubt respecting the powers of a devil when put in competition with +those of a white man, ranged themselves around and watched the result +with anxiety. Nothing remarkable occurred for a long time. The conjurer +continued his song at intervals and it was occasionally taken up by +those without. In this manner an hour and a half elapsed; but at length +our attention, which had begun to flag, was roused by the violent +shaking of the conjuring-house. It was instantly whispered round the +circle that at least one devil had crept under the moose-skin. But it +proved to be only the “God-like man” trembling with cold. He had +entered the lists stripped to the skin and the thermometer stood very +low that evening. His attempts were continued however with considerable +resolution for half an hour longer, when he reluctantly gave in. He had +found no difficulty in slipping through the noose when it was formed by +his countrymen; but in the present instance the knot was tied by +Governor Williams who is an expert sailor. After this unsuccessful +exhibition his credit sunk amazingly, and he took the earliest +opportunity of sneaking away from the fort. + +About two years ago a conjurer paid more dearly for his temerity. In a +quarrel with an Indian he threw out some obscure threats of vengeance +which passed unnoticed at the time but were afterwards remembered. They +met in the spring at Carlton House after passing the winter in +different parts of the country, during which the Indian’s child died. +The conjurer had the folly to boast that he had caused its death and +the enraged father shot him dead on the spot. It may be remarked +however that both these Indians were inhabitants of the plains and had +been taught, by their intercourse with the turbulent Stone Indians, to +set but comparatively little value on the life of a man. + +It might be thought that the Crees have benefited by their long +intercourse with civilised nations. That this is not so much the case +as it ought to be is not entirely their own fault. They are capable of +being and, I believe, willing to be, taught; but no pains have hitherto +been taken to inform their minds,[7] and their white acquaintances seem +in general to find it easier to descend to the Indian customs and modes +of thinking, particularly with respect to women, than to attempt to +raise the Indians to theirs. Indeed such a lamentable want of morality +has been displayed by the white traders in their contests for the +interests of their respective companies that it would require a long +series of good conduct to efface from the minds of the native +population the ideas they have formed of the white character. +Notwithstanding the frequent violations of the rights of property they +have witnessed and but too often experienced in their own persons, +these savages, as they are termed, remain strictly honest. During their +visits to a post they are suffered to enter every apartment in the +house without the least restraint and, although articles of value to +them are scattered about, nothing is ever missed. They scrupulously +avoid moving anything from its place although they are often prompted +by curiosity to examine it. In some cases indeed they carry this +principle to a degree of self-denial which would hardly be expected. It +often happens that meat which has been paid for (if the poisonous +draught it procures them can be considered as payment) is left at their +lodges until a convenient opportunity occurs of carrying it away. They +will rather pass several days without eating than touch the meat thus +entrusted to their charge, even when there exists a prospect of +replacing it. + + [7] Since these remarks were written the union of the rival Companies + has enabled the gentlemen who have now the management of the fur trade + to take some decided steps for the religious instruction and + improvement of the natives and half-breed Indians, which have been + more particularly referred to in the introduction. + + +The hospitality of the Crees is unbounded. They afford a certain asylum +to the half-breed children when deserted by their unnatural white +fathers; and the infirm, and indeed every individual in an encampment, +share the provisions of a successful hunter as long as they last. Fond +too as a Cree is of spiritous liquors he is not happy unless all his +neighbours partake with him. It is not easy however to say what share +ostentation may have in the apparent munificence in the latter article; +for when an Indian, by a good hunt, is enabled to treat the others with +a keg of rum he becomes the chief of the night, assumes no little +stateliness of manner, and is treated with deference by those who +regale at his expense. Prompted also by the desire of gaining a _name_ +they lavish away the articles they purchase at the trading posts and +are well satisfied if repaid in praise. + +Gaming is not uncommon amongst the Crees of all the different +districts, but it is pursued to greater lengths by those bands who +frequent the plains and who, from the ease with which they obtain food, +have abundant leisure. The game most in use amongst them, termed +_puckesann_, is played with the stones of a species of _prunus_ which, +from this circumstance, they term _puckesann-meena_. The difficulty +lies in guessing the number of stones which are tossed out of a small +wooden dish and the hunters will spend whole nights at the destructive +sport, staking their most valuable articles, powder and shot. + +It has been remarked by some writers that the aboriginal inhabitants of +America are deficient in passion for the fair sex. This is by no means +the case with the Crees; on the contrary their practice of seducing +each other’s wives proves the most fertile source of their quarrels. +When the guilty pair are detected the woman generally receives a severe +beating, but the husband is for the most part afraid to reproach the +male culprit until they get drunk together at the fort; then the +remembrance of the offence is revived, a struggle ensues and the affair +is terminated by the loss of a few handfuls of hair. Some husbands +however feel more deeply the injury done to their honour and seek +revenge even in their sober moments. In such cases it is not uncommon +for the offended party to walk with great gravity up to the other and, +deliberately seizing his gun or some other article of value, to break +it before his face. The adulterer looks on in silence, afraid to make +any attempt to save his property. In this respect indeed the Indian +character seems to differ from the European that an Indian, instead of +letting his anger increase with that of his antagonist, assumes the +utmost coolness lest he should push him to extremities. + +Although adultery is sometimes punished amongst the Crees in the manner +above described yet it is no crime provided the husband receives a +valuable consideration for his wife’s prostitution. Neither is chastity +considered as a virtue in a female before marriage, that is before she +becomes the exclusive property of one hunter. + +The Cree women are not in general treated harshly by their husbands and +possess considerable influence over them. They often eat and even get +drunk in consort with the men; a considerable portion of the labour +however falls to the lot of the wife. She makes the hut, cooks, dresses +the skins, and for the most part carries the heaviest load: but when +she is unable to perform her task the husband does not consider it +beneath his dignity to assist her. In illustration of this remark I may +quote the case of an Indian who visited the fort in winter. This poor +man’s wife had lost her feet by the frost and he was compelled not only +to hunt and do all the menial offices himself but in winter to drag his +wife with their stock of furniture from one encampment to another. In +the performance of this duty as he could not keep pace with the rest of +the tribe in their movements he more than once nearly perished of +hunger. + +These Indians however, capable as they are of behaving thus kindly, +affect in their discourse to despise the softer sex and on solemn +occasions will not suffer them to eat before them or even come into +their presence. In this they are countenanced by the white residents, +most of whom have Indian or half-breed wives but seem afraid of +treating them with the tenderness or attention due to every female lest +they should themselves be despised by the Indians. At least this is the +only reason they assign for their neglect of those whom they make +partners of their beds and mothers of their children. + +Both sexes are fond of and excessively indulgent to their children. The +father never punishes them and if the mother, more hasty in her temper, +sometimes bestows a blow or two on a troublesome child her heart is +instantly softened by the roar which follows and she mingles her tears +with those that streak the smoky face of her darling. It may be fairly +said then that restraint or punishment forms no part of the education +of an Indian child, nor are they early trained to that command over +their temper which they exhibit in after years. + +The discourse of the parents is never restrained by the presence of +their children, every transaction between the sexes being openly talked +of before them. + +The Crees, having early obtained arms from the European traders, were +enabled to make harassing inroads on the lands of their neighbours and +are known to have made war excursions as far to the westward as the +Rocky Mountains, and to the northward as far as Mackenzie’s River; but +their enemies being now as well armed as themselves the case is much +altered. + +They show great fortitude in the endurance of hunger and the other +evils incident to a hunter’s life; but any unusual accident dispirits +them at once, and they seldom venture to meet their enemies in open +warfare or to attack them even by surprise unless with the advantage of +superiority of numbers. Perhaps they are much deteriorated in this +respect by their intercourse with Europeans. Their existence at present +hangs upon the supplies of ammunition and clothing they receive from +the traders and they deeply feel their dependent situation. But their +character has been still more debased by the passion for spiritous +liquors so assiduously fostered among them. To obtain the noxious +beverage they descend to the most humiliating entreaties and assume an +abjectness of behaviour which does not seem natural to them and of +which not a vestige is to be seen in their intercourse with each other. +Their character has sunk among the neighbouring nations. They are no +longer the warriors who drove before them the inhabitants of the +Saskatchewan and Missinippi. The Cumberland House Crees in particular +have been long disused to war. Betwixt them and their ancient enemies, +the Slave nations, lie the extensive plains of Saskatchewan, inhabited +by the powerful Asseeneepoytuck or Stone Indians who, having whilst yet +a small tribe entered the country under the patronage of the Crees, now +render back the protection they received. + +The manners and customs of the Crees have, probably since their +acquaintance with Europeans, undergone a change at least equal to that +which has taken place in their moral character; and although we heard +of many practises peculiar to them yet they appeared to be nearly as +much honoured in the breach as the observance. We shall however briefly +notice a few of the most remarkable customs. + +When a hunter marries his first wife he usually takes up his abode in +the tent of his father-in-law and of course hunts for the family; but +when he becomes a father the families are at liberty to separate or +remain together as their inclinations prompt them. His second wife is +for the most part the sister of the first but not necessarily so for an +Indian of another family often presses his daughter upon a hunter whom +he knows to be capable of maintaining her well. The first wife always +remains the mistress of the tent and assumes an authority over the +others which is not in every case quietly submitted to. It may be +remarked that whilst an Indian resides with his wife’s family it is +extremely improper for his mother-in-law to speak or even look at him; +and when she has a communication to make it is the etiquette that she +should turn her back upon him and address him only through the medium +of a third person. This singular custom is not very creditable to the +Indians if it really had its origin in the cause which they at present +assign for it namely that a woman’s speaking to her son-in-law is a +sure indication of her having conceived a criminal affection for him. + +It appears also to have been an ancient practice for an Indian to avoid +eating or sitting down in the presence of the father-in-law. We +received no account of the origin of this custom and it is now almost +obsolete amongst the Cumberland House Crees, though still partially +observed by those who frequent Carlton. + +Tattooing is almost universal with the Crees. The women are in general +content with having one or two lines drawn from the corners of the +mouth towards the angles of the lower jaw; but some of the men have +their bodies covered with a great variety of lines and figures. It +seems to be considered by most rather as a proof of courage than an +ornament, the operation being very painful and, if the figures are +numerous and intricate, lasting several days. The lines on the face are +formed by dextrously running an awl under the cuticle and then drawing +a cord, dipped in charcoal and water, through the canal thus formed. +The punctures on the body are formed by needles of various sizes set in +a frame. A number of hawk bells attached to this frame serve by their +noise to cover the suppressed groans of the sufferer and, probably for +the same reason, the process is accompanied with singing. An indelible +stain is produced by rubbing a little finely-powdered willow-charcoal +into the punctures. A half-breed whose arm I amputated declared that +tattooing was not only the most painful operation of the two but +rendered infinitely more difficult to bear by its tediousness having +lasted in his case three days. + +A Cree woman at certain periods is laid under considerable restraint. +They are far however from carrying matters to the extremities mentioned +by Hearne in his description of the Chipewyans, or Northern Indians. +She lives apart from her husband also for two months if she has borne a +boy and for three if she has given birth to a girl. + +Many of the Cree hunters are careful to prevent a woman from partaking +of the head of a moose-deer lest it should spoil their future hunts; +and for the same reason they avoid bringing it to a fort, fearing lest +the white people should give the bones to the dogs. + +The games or sports of the Crees are various. One termed the game of +the mitten is played with four balls, three of which are plain and one +marked. These being hid under as many mittens the opposite party is +required to fix on that which is marked. He gives or receives a feather +according as he guesses right or wrong. When the feathers, which are +ten in number, have all passed into one hand a new division is made, +but when one of the parties obtains possession of them thrice he seizes +on the stakes. + +The game of Platter is more intricate and is played with the claws of a +bear or some other animal marked with various lines and characters. +These dice which are eight in number and cut flat at their large end +are shook together in a wooden dish, tossed into the air and caught +again. The lines traced on such claws as happen to alight on the +platter in an erect position indicate what number of counters the +caster is to receive from his opponent. + +They have, however, a much more manly amusement termed the _Cross_ +although they do not engage even in it without depositing considerable +stakes. An extensive meadow is chosen for this sport and the articles +staked are tied to a post or deposited in the custody of two old men. +The combatants, being stripped and painted and each provided with a +kind of battledore or racket, in shape resembling the letter P with a +handle about two feet long and a head loosely wrought with network so +as to form a shallow bag, range themselves on different sides. A ball +being now tossed up in the middle each party endeavours to drive it to +their respective goals and much dexterity and agility is displayed in +the contest. When a nimble runner gets the ball in his _cross_, he sets +off towards the goal with the utmost speed and is followed by the rest +who endeavour to jostle him and shake it out; but, if hard pressed, he +discharges it with a jerk, to be forwarded by his own party or bandied +back by their opponents until the victory is decided by its passing the +goal. + +Of the religious opinions of the Crees it is difficult to give a +correct account, not only because they show a disinclination to enter +upon the subject but because their ancient traditions are mingled with +the information they have more recently obtained by their intercourse +with Europeans. + +None of them ventured to describe the original formation of the world +but they all spoke of a universal deluge caused by an attempt of the +fish to drown Woesackootchacht, a kind of demigod with whom they had +quarrelled. Having constructed a raft he embarked with his family and +all kinds of birds and beasts. After the flood had continued for some +time he ordered several waterfowl to dive to the bottom; they were all +drowned but a muskrat, having been despatched on the same errand, was +more successful and returned with a mouthful of mud out of which +Woesackootchacht, imitating the mode in which the rats construct their +houses, formed a new earth. First a small conical hill of mud appeared +above the water; by and by, its base gradually spreading out, it became +an extensive bank which the rays of the sun at length hardened into +firm land. Notwithstanding the power that Woesackootchacht here +displayed his person is held in very little reverence by the Indians; +and in return he seizes every opportunity of tormenting them. His +conduct is far from being moral and his amours and the disguises he +assumes in the prosecution of them are more various and extraordinary +than those of the Grecian Jupiter himself; but as his adventures are +more remarkable for their eccentricity than their delicacy it is better +to pass them over in silence. Before we quit him however we may remark +that he converses with all kinds of birds and beasts in their own +languages, constantly addressing them by the title of brother but, +through an inherent suspicion of his intentions, they are seldom +willing to admit of his claims of relationship. The Indians make no +sacrifices to him, not even to avert his wrath. They pay a kind of +worship however and make offerings to a being whom they term +_Kepoochikawn_. + +This deity is represented sometimes by rude images of the human figure +but more commonly merely by tying the tops of a few willow bushes +together; and the offerings to him consist of everything that is +valuable to an Indian; yet they treat him with considerable +familiarity, interlarding their most solemn speeches with +expostulations and threats of neglect if he fails in complying with +their requests. As most of their petitions are for plenty of food they +do not trust entirely to the favour of Kepoochikawn but endeavour at +the same time to propitiate the _animal_, an imaginary representative +of the whole race of larger quadrupeds that are objects of the chase. + +In the month of May whilst I was at Carlton House the Cree hunter +engaged to attend that post resolved upon dedicating several articles +to Kepoochikawn and, as I had made some inquiries of him respecting +their modes of worship, he gave me an invitation to be present. The +ceremony took place in a sweating-house or, as it may be designated +from its more important use, a _temple_, which was erected for the +occasion by the worshipper’s two wives. It was framed of arched +willows, interlaced so as to form a vault capable of containing ten or +twelve men ranged closely side by side, and high enough to admit of +their sitting erect. It was very similar in shape to an oven or the +kraal of a Hottentot and was closely covered with moose-skins except at +the east end which was left open for a door. Near the centre of the +building there was a hole in the ground which contained ten or twelve +red-hot stones having a few leaves of the _taccohaymenan_, a species of +_prunus_, strewed around them. When the women had completed the +preparations the hunter made his appearance, perfectly naked, carrying +in his hand an image of Kepoochikawn, rudely carved and about two feet +long. He placed his god at the upper end of the sweating-house with his +face towards the door and proceeded to tie round its neck his +offerings, consisting of a cotton handkerchief, a looking-glass, a tin +pan, a piece of riband, and a bit of tobacco which he had procured the +same day at the expense of fifteen or twenty skins. Whilst he was thus +occupied several other Crees who were encamped in the neighbourhood, +having been informed of what was going on arrived and, stripping at the +door of the temple, entered and ranged themselves on each side; the +hunter himself squatted down at the right hand of Kepoochikawn. The +atmosphere of the temple having become so hot that none but zealous +worshippers would venture in the interpreter and myself sat down on the +threshold and the two women remained on the outside as attendants. + +The hunter who throughout officiated as high priest commenced by making +a speech to Kepoochikawn in which he requested him to be propitious, +told him of the value of the things now presented, and cautioned him +against ingratitude. This oration was delivered in a monotonous tone +and with great rapidity of utterance, and the speaker retained his +squatting posture but turned his face to his god. At its conclusion the +priest began a hymn of which the burden was, “I will walk with God, I +will go with the animal”; and at the end of each stanza the rest joined +in an insignificant chorus. He next took up a calumet filled with a +mixture of tobacco and bear-berry leaves and, holding its stem by the +middle in a horizontal position over the hot stones, turned it slowly +in a circular manner, following the course of the sun. Its mouth-piece +being then with much formality held for a few seconds to the face of +Kepoochikawn it was next presented to the earth, having been previously +turned a second time over the hot stones; and afterwards with equal +ceremony pointed in succession to the four quarters of the sky then, +drawing a few whiffs from the calumet himself, he handed it to his +left-hand neighbour by whom it was gravely passed round the circle; the +interpreter and myself, who were seated at the door, were asked to +partake in our turn but requested to keep the head of the calumet +within the threshold of the sweating-house. When the tobacco was +exhausted by passing several times round the hunter made another +speech, similar to the former but was if possible still more urgent in +his requests. A second hymn followed and, a quantity of water being +sprinkled on the hot stones, the attendants were ordered to close the +temple, which they did by very carefully covering it up with +moose-skins. We had no means of ascertaining the temperature of the +sweating-house; but before it was closed not only those within but also +the spectators without were perspiring freely. They continued in the +vapour bath for thirty-five minutes, during which time a third speech +was made and a hymn was sung and water occasionally sprinkled on the +stones which still retained much heat, as was evident from the hissing +noise they made. The coverings were then thrown off and the poor +half-stewed worshippers exposed freely to the air; but they kept their +squatting postures until a fourth speech was made in which the deity +was strongly reminded of the value of the gifts and exhorted to take an +early opportunity of showing his gratitude. The ceremony concluded by +the sweaters scampering down to the river and plunging into the stream. +It may be remarked that the door of the temple and of course the face +of the god was turned to the rising sun; and the spectators were +desired not to block up entirely the front of the building but to leave +a lane for the entrance or exit of some influence of which they could +not give me a correct description. Several Indians, who lay on the +outside of the sweating-house as spectators, seemed to regard the +proceedings with very little awe and were extremely free in the remarks +and jokes they passed upon the condition of the sweaters and even of +Kepoochikawn himself. One of them made a remark that the shawl would +have been much better bestowed upon himself than upon Kepoochikawn, but +the same fellow afterwards stripped and joined in the ceremony. + +I did not learn that the Indians worship any other god by a specific +name. They often refer however to the Keetchee-Maneeto, or Great Master +of Life, and to an evil spirit, or Maatche-Maneeto. They also speak of +Weettako, a kind of vampire or devil into which those who have fed on +human flesh are transformed. + +Whilst at Carlton I took an opportunity of asking a communicative old +Indian of the Blackfoot nation his opinion of a future state; he +replied that they had heard from their fathers that the souls of the +departed have to scramble with great labour up the sides of a steep +mountain, upon attaining the summit of which they are rewarded with the +prospect of an extensive plain, abounding in all sorts of game and +interspersed here and there with new tents pitched in agreeable +situations. Whilst they are absorbed in the contemplation of this +delightful scene they are descried by the inhabitants of the happy land +who, clothed in new skin-dresses, approach and welcome with every +demonstration of kindness those Indians who have led good lives, but +the bad Indians, who have imbrued their hands in the blood of their +countrymen, are told to return from whence they came and, without more +ceremony, precipitated down the steep sides of the mountain. + +Women who have been guilty of infanticide never reach the mountain at +all but are compelled to hover round the seats of their crimes with +branches of trees tied to their legs. The melancholy sounds which are +heard in the still summer evenings and which the ignorance of the white +people considers as the screams of the goat-sucker are really, +according to my informant, the moanings of these unhappy beings. + +The Crees have somewhat similar notions but, as they inhabit a country +widely different from the mountainous lands of the Blackfoot Indians, +the difficulty of their journey lies in walking along a slender and +slippery tree laid as a bridge across a rapid stream of stinking and +muddy water. The night owl is regarded by the Crees with the same dread +that it has been viewed by other nations. One small species, which is +known to them by its melancholy nocturnal hootings (for as it never +appears in the day few even of the hunters have ever seen it) is +particularly ominous. They call it the _cheepai-peethees_, or death +bird, and never fail to whistle when they hear its note. If it does not +reply to the whistle by its hootings the speedy death of the inquirer +is augured. + +When a Cree dies that part of his property which he has not given away +before his death is burned with him, and his relations take care to +place near the grave little heaps of firewood, food, pieces of tobacco, +and such things as he is likely to need in his journey. Similar +offerings are made when they revisit the grave, and as kettles and +other articles of value are sometimes offered they are frequently +carried off by passengers, yet the relations are not displeased +provided sufficient respect has been shown to the dead by putting some +other article, although of inferior value, in the place of that which +has been taken away. + +The Crees are wont to celebrate the returns of the seasons by religious +festivals but we are unable to describe the ceremonial in use on these +joyous occasions from personal observation. The following brief notice +of a feast which was given by an old Cree chief according to his annual +custom on the first croaking of the frogs is drawn up from the +information of one of the guests. A large oblong tent or lodge was +prepared for the important occasion by the men of the party, none of +the women being suffered to interfere. It faced the setting sun and +great care was taken that everything about it should be as neat and +clean as possible. Three fireplaces were raised within it at equal +distances and little holes were dug in the corners to contain the ashes +of their pipes. In a recess at its upper end one large image of +Kepoochikawn and many smaller ones were ranged with their faces towards +the door. The food was prepared by the chief’s wife and consisted of +_marrow_ pemmican, berries boiled with fat, and various other +delicacies that had been preserved for the occasion. + +The preparations being completed and, a slave whom the chief had taken +in war having warned the guests to the feast by the mysterious word +_peenasheway_, they came, dressed out in their best garments, and +ranged themselves according to their seniority, the elders seating +themselves next the chief at the upper end and the young men near the +door. + +The chief commenced by addressing his deities in an appropriate speech +in which he told them that he had hastened as soon as summer was +indicated by the croaking of the frogs to solicit their favour for +himself and his young men, and hoped that they would send him a +pleasant and plentiful season. His oration was concluded by an +invocation to all the animals in the land and, a signal being given to +the slave at the door, he invited them severally by their names to come +and partake of the feast. + +The Cree chief having by this very general invitation displayed his +unbounded hospitality next ordered one of the young men to distribute a +mess to each of the guests. This was done in new dishes of birch bark, +and the utmost diligence was displayed in emptying them, it being +considered extremely improper in a man to leave any part of that which +is placed before him on such occasions. It is not inconsistent with +good manners however but rather considered as a piece of politeness +that a guest who has been too liberally supplied should hand the +surplus to his neighbour. When the viands had disappeared each filled +his calumet and began to smoke with great assiduity, and in the course +of the evening several songs were sung to the responsive sounds of the +drum and seeseequay, their usual accompaniments. + +The Cree drum is double-headed but, possessing very little depth, it +strongly resembles a tambourine in shape. Its want of depth is +compensated however by its diameter which frequently exceeds three +feet. It is covered with moose-skin parchment, painted with rude +figures of men and beasts having various fantastic additions, and is +beat with a stick. The seeseequay is merely a rattle formed by +enclosing a few grains of shot in a piece of dried hide. These two +instruments are used in all their religious ceremonies except those +which take place in a sweating-house. + +A Cree places great reliance on his drum and I cannot adduce a stronger +instance than that of the poor man who is mentioned in a preceding page +as having lost his only child by famine, almost within sight of the +fort. Notwithstanding his exhausted state he travelled with an enormous +drum tied to his back. + +Many of the Crees make vows to abstain from particular kinds of food +either for a specific time or for the remainder of their life, +esteeming such abstinence to be a certain means of acquiring some +supernatural powers, or at least of entailing upon themselves a +succession of good fortune. + +One of the wives of the Carlton hunter, of whom we have already spoken +as the worshipper of Kepoochikawn, made a determination not to eat of +the flesh of the Wawaskeesh or American stag; but during our abode at +that place she was induced to feed heartily upon it, through the +intentional deceit of her husband who told her that it was buffalo +meat. When she had finished her meal her husband told her of the trick +and seemed to enjoy the terror with which she contemplated the +consequences of the involuntary breach of her vow. Vows of this nature +are often made by a Cree before he joins a war party, and they +sometimes, like the eastern bonzes, walk for a certain number of days +on all fours or impose upon themselves some other penance equally +ridiculous. By such means the Cree warrior becomes _god-like;_ but +unless he kills an enemy before his return his newly-acquired powers +are estimated to be productive in future of some direful consequence to +himself. + +As we did not witness any of the Cree dances ourselves we shall merely +mention that, like the other North American nations, they are +accustomed to practice that amusement on meeting with strange tribes +before going to war and on other solemn occasions. + +The habitual intoxication of the Cumberland House Crees has induced +such a disregard of personal appearance that they are squalid and dirty +in the extreme; hence a minute description of their clothing would be +by no means interesting. We shall therefore only remark in a general +manner that the dress of the male consists of a blanket thrown over the +shoulders, a leathern shirt or jacket, and a piece of cloth tied round +the middle. The women have in addition a long petticoat; and both sexes +wear a kind of wide hose which, reaching from the ankle to the middle +of the thigh, are suspended by strings to the girdle. These hose or, as +they are termed, _Indian stockings_, are commonly ornamented with beads +or ribands, and from their convenience have been universally adopted by +the white residents as an essential part of their winter clothing. +Their shoes, or rather short boots for they tie round the ankle, are +made of soft dressed moose-skins, and during the winter they wrap +several pieces of blanket round their feet. + +They are fond of European articles of dress, considering it as mean to +be dressed entirely in leather, and the hunters are generally furnished +annually with a _capot_ or great coat, and the women with shawls, +printed calicoes, and other things very unsuitable to their mode of +life but which they wear in imitation of the wives of the traders; all +these articles, however showy they may be at first, are soon reduced to +a very filthy condition by the Indian custom of greasing the face and +hair with soft fat or marrow instead of washing them with water. This +practice they say preserves the skin soft and protects it from cold in +the winter and the mosquitoes in summer, but it renders their presence +disagreeable to the olfactory organs of an European, particularly when +they are seated in a close tent and near a hot fire. + +The only peculiarity which we observed in their mode of rearing +children consists in the use of a sort of cradle extremely well adapted +to their mode of life. The infant is placed in the bag having its lower +extremities wrapped up in soft sphagnum or bog-moss, and may be hung up +in the tent or to the branch of a tree without the least danger of +tumbling out; or in a journey suspended on the mother’s back by a band +which crosses the forehead so as to leave her hands perfectly free. It +is one of the neatest articles of furniture they possess, being +generally ornamented with beads and bits of scarlet cloth, but it bears +a very strong resemblance in its form to a mummy case. + +The sphagnum in which the child is laid forms a soft elastic bed which +absorbs moisture very readily and affords such a protection from the +cold of a rigorous winter that its place would be ill supplied by +cloth. + +The mothers are careful to collect a sufficient quantity in autumn for +winter use; but when through accident their stock fails they have +recourse to the soft down of the typha, or reed mace, the dust of +rotten wood, or even feathers, although none of these articles are so +cleanly or so easily changed as the sphagnum. + +The above is a brief sketch of such parts of the manners, character and +customs of the Crees as we could collect from personal observation or +from the information of the most intelligent half-breeds we met with; +and we shall merely add a few remarks on the manner in which the trade +is conducted at the different inland posts of the Fur Companies. + +The standard of Exchange in all mercantile transactions with the +natives is a beaver skin, the relative value of which as originally +established by the traders differs considerably from the present worth +of the articles it represents; but the Indians are averse to change. +Three marten, eight muskrat, or a single lynx or wolverine skin, are +equivalent to one beaver; a silver fox, white fox, or otter, are +reckoned two beavers, and a black fox or large black bear are equal to +four; a mode of reckoning which has very little connection with the +real value of these different furs in the European market. Neither has +any attention been paid to the original cost of European articles in +fixing the tariff by which they are sold to the Indians. A coarse +butcher’s knife is one skin, a woollen blanket or a fathom of coarse +cloth eight, and a fowling-piece fifteen. The Indians receive their +principal outfit of clothing and ammunition on credit in the autumn to +be repaid by their winter hunts; the amount entrusted to each of the +hunters varying with their reputations for industry and skill from +twenty to one hundred and fifty skins. The Indians are generally +anxious to pay off the debt thus incurred but their good intentions are +often frustrated by the arts of the rival traders. Each of the +Companies keeps men constantly employed travelling over the country +during the winter to collect the furs from the different bands of +hunters as fast as they are procured. The poor Indian endeavours to +behave honestly and, when he has gathered a few skins, sends notice to +the post from whence he procured his supplies but, if discovered in the +meantime by the opposite party, he is seldom proof against the +temptation to which he is exposed. However firm he may be in his +denials at first his resolutions are enfeebled by the sight of a little +rum and, when he has tasted the intoxicating beverage, they vanish like +smoke and he brings forth his store of furs which he has carefully +concealed from the scrutinising eyes of his visitors. This mode of +carrying on the trade not only causes the amount of furs collected by +either of the two Companies to depend more upon the activity of their +agents, the knowledge they possess of the motions of the Indians, and +the quantity of rum they carry, than upon the liberality of the credits +they give, but is also productive of an increasing deterioration of the +character of the Indians and will probably ultimately prove destructive +to the fur trade itself. Indeed the evil has already in part recoiled +upon the traders; for the Indians, long deceived, have become deceivers +in their turn, and not unfrequently, after having incurred a heavy debt +at one post, move off to another to play the same game. In some cases +the rival posts have entered into a mutual agreement to trade only with +the Indians they have respectively fitted out, but such treaties, being +seldom rigidly adhered to, prove a fertile subject for disputes and the +differences have been more than once decided by force of arms. To carry +on the contest the two Companies are obliged to employ a great many +servants whom they maintain often with much difficulty and always at a +considerable expense.[8] + + [8] As the contending parties have united the evils mentioned in this + and the two preceding pages are now in all probability at an end. + + +There are thirty men belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Fort at Cumberland +and nearly as many women and children. + +The inhabitants of the North-West Company’s House are still more +numerous. These large families are fed during the greatest part of the +year on fish which are principally procured at Beaver Lake, about fifty +miles distant. The fishery, commencing with the first frosts in autumn, +continues abundant till January, and the produce is dragged over the +snow on sledges, each drawn by three dogs and carrying about two +hundred and fifty pounds. The journey to and from the lake occupies +five days and every sledge requires a driver. About three thousand fish +averaging three pounds apiece were caught by the Hudson’s Bay fishermen +last season; in addition to which a few sturgeon were occasionally +caught in Pine Island Lake; and towards the spring a considerable +quantity of moose meat was procured from the Basquiau Hill, sixty or +seventy miles distant. The rest of our winter’s provision consisted of +geese, salted in the autumn, and of dried meats and pemmican obtained +from the provision posts on the plains of the Saskatchewan. A good many +potatoes are also raised at this post and a small supply of tea and +sugar is brought from the depôt at York Factory. The provisions +obtained from these various sources were amply sufficient in the winter +of 1819-20; but through improvidence this post has in former seasons +been reduced to great straits. + +Many of the labourers and a great majority of the agents and clerks +employed by the two Companies have Indian or half-breed wives, and the +mixed offspring thus produced has become extremely numerous. + +These métifs, or, as the Canadians term them, _bois brulés_, are upon +the whole a good-looking people and, where the experiment has been +made, have shown much aptness in learning and willingness to be taught; +they have however been sadly neglected. The example of their fathers +has released them from the restraint imposed by the Indian opinions of +good and bad behaviour; and generally speaking no pains have been taken +to fill the void with better principles. Hence it is not surprising +that the males, trained up in a high opinion of the authority and +rights of the Company to which their fathers belonged and, unacquainted +with the laws of the civilised world, should be ready to engage in any +measure whatever that they are prompted to believe will forward the +interests of the cause they espouse. Nor that the girls, taught a +certain degree of refinement by the acquisition of an European +language, should be inflamed by the unrestrained discourse of their +Indian relations, and very early give up all pretensions to chastity. +It is however but justice to remark that there is a very decided +difference in the conduct of the children of the Orkney men employed by +the Hudson’s Bay Company and those of the Canadian voyagers. Some +trouble is occasionally bestowed in teaching the former and it is not +thrown away, but all the good that can be said of the latter is that +they are not quite so licentious as their fathers are. + +Many of the half-breeds both male and female are brought up amongst and +intermarry with the Indians; and there are few tents wherein the paler +children of such marriages are not to be seen. It has been remarked, I +do not know with what truth, that half-breeds show more personal +courage than the pure Crees.[9] + + [9] A singular change takes place in the physical constitution of the + Indian females who become inmates of a fort, namely they bear children + more frequently and longer but at the same time are rendered liable to + indurations of the mammae and prolapsus of the uterus, evils from + which they are in a great measure exempt whilst they lead a wandering + and laborious life. + + +The girls at the forts, particularly the daughters of Canadians, are +given in marriage very young; they are very frequently wives at twelve +years of age and mothers at fourteen. Nay, more than once instance came +under our observation of the master of a post having permitted a +voyager to take to wife a poor child that had scarcely attained the age +of ten years. The masters of posts and wintering partners of the +Companies deemed this criminal indulgence to the vices of their +servants necessary to stimulate them to exertion for the interest of +their respective concerns. Another practice may also be noticed as +showing the state of moral feeling on these subjects amongst the white +residents of the fur countries. It was not very uncommon amongst the +Canadian voyagers for one woman to be common to and maintained at the +joint expense of two men; nor for a voyager to sell his wife, either +for a season or altogether, for a sum of money proportioned to her +beauty and good qualities but always inferior to the price of a team of +dogs. + +The country around Cumberland House is flat and swampy and is much +intersected by small lakes. Limestone is found everywhere under a thin +stratum of soil and it not unfrequently shows itself above the surface. +It lies in strata generally horizontal but in one spot near the fort +dipping to the northward at an angle of 40°. Some portions of this rock +contain very perfect shells. With respect to the vegetable productions +of the district the _populus trepida_, or aspen, which thrives in moist +situations, is perhaps the most abundant tree on the banks of the +Saskatchewan and is much prized as firewood, burning well when cut +green. The _populus balsamifera_ or taccamahac, called by the Crees +_matheh meteos_, or ugly poplar, in allusion to its rough bark and +naked stem, crowned in an aged state with a few distorted branches, is +scarcely less plentiful. It is an inferior firewood and does not been +well unless when cut in the spring and dried during the summer; but it +affords a great quantity of potash. A decoction of its resinous buds +has been sometimes used by the Indians with success in cases of +_snow-blindness_, but its application to the inflamed eye produces much +pain. Of pines the white spruce is the most common here: the red and +black spruce, the balsam of Gilead fir, and Banksian pine also occur +frequently. The larch is found only in swampy spots and is stunted and +unhealthy. The canoe birch attains a considerable size in this latitude +but from the great demand for its wood to make sledges it has become +rare. The alder abounds on the margin of the little grassy lakes so +common in the neighbourhood. A decoction of its inner bark is used as +an emetic by the Indians who also extract from it a yellow dye. A great +variety of willows occur on the banks of the streams and the hazel is +met with sparingly in the woods. The sugar maple, elm, ash, and the +_arbor vitæ_,[10] termed by the Canadian voyagers _cedar_, grow on +various parts of the Saskatchewan but that river seems to form their +northern boundary. Two kinds of prunus also grow here, one of +which,[11] a handsome small tree, produces a black fruit having a very +astringent taste whence the term _choke-cherry_ applied to it. The +Crees call it _tawquoy-meena_, and esteemed it to be when dried and +bruised a good addition to pemmican. The other species[12] is a less +elegant shrub but is said to bear a bright red cherry of a pleasant +sweet taste. Its Cree name is _passee-awey-meenan_, and it is known to +occur as far north as Great Slave Lake. + + [10] Thuya occidentalis. + + + [11] Prunus virginiana. + + + [12] Prunus pensylvanica. + + +The most esteemed fruit of the country however is the produce of the +_aronia ovalis_. Under the name of _meesass-cootoomena_ it is a +favourite dish at most of the Indian feasts and, mixed with pemmican, +it renders that greasy food actually palatable. A great variety of +currants and gooseberries are also mentioned by the natives under the +name of _sappoom-meena_ but we only found three species in the +neighbourhood of Cumberland House. The strawberry, called by the Crees +_otei-meena_, or heart-berry, is found in abundance and rasps are +common on the sandy banks of the rivers. The fruits hitherto mentioned +fall in the autumn but the following berries remained hanging on the +bushes in the spring and are considered as much mellowed by exposure to +the colds in winter. The red whortleberry (_vaccinium vitis idea_) is +found everywhere but is most abundant in rocky places. It is aptly +termed by the Crees _weesawgum-meena_, sour-berry. The common cranberry +(_oxycoccos palustris_) is distinguished from the preceding by its +growing on moist sphagnous spots and is hence called _maskœgo-meena_, +swamp-berry. The American guelder rose whose fruit so strongly +resembles the cranberry is also common. There are two kinds of it +(_viburnum oxycoccoos_ and _edule_) one termed by the natives +_peepoon-meena_, winter-berry, and the other _mongsoa-meena_, +moose-berry. There is also a berry of a bluish white colour, the +produce of the white cornel tree, which is named _musqua-meena_, +bear-berry, because these animals are said to fatten on it. The dwarf +Canadian cornel bears a corymb of red berries which are highly +ornamental to the woods throughout the country but are not otherwise +worthy of notice for they have an insipid farinaceous taste and are +seldom gathered. + +The Crees extract some beautiful colours from several of their native +vegetables. They dye their porcupine quills a beautiful scarlet with +the roots of two species of bed-straw (Galium tinctorium and boreale) +which they indiscriminately term _sawoyan_. The roots, after being +carefully washed, are boiled gently in a clean copper kettle, and a +quantity of the juice of the moose-berry, strawberry, cranberry, or +arctic raspberry, is added together with a few red tufts of pistils of +the larch. The porcupine quills are plunged into the liquor before it +becomes quite cold and are soon tinged of a beautiful scarlet. The +process sometimes fails and produces only a dirty brown, a circumstance +which ought probably to be ascribed to the use of an undue quantity of +acid. They dye black with an ink made of elder bark and a little +bog-iron-ore, dried and pounded, and they have various modes of +producing yellow. The deepest colour is obtained from the dried root of +a plant which from their description appears to be cowbane (_cicuta +virosa_). An inferior colour is obtained from the bruised buds of the +Dutch myrtle and they have discovered methods of dyeing with various +lichens. + +The quadrupeds that are hunted for food in this part of the country are +the moose and the reindeer, the former termed by the Crees _mongsoa_, +or _moosoa_, the latter _attekh_. The buffalo or bison (_moostoosh_) +the red-deer or American stag (_wawaskeeshoo_) the _apeesee-mongsoos_, +or jumping deer, the _kinwaithoos_, or long-tailed deer, and the +_apistat-chækoos_, a species of antelope; animals that frequent the +plains above the forks of the Saskatchewan are not found in the +neighbourhood of Cumberland House. + +Of fur-bearing animals various kinds of foxes (_makkee-shewuc_) are +found in the district, distinguished by the traders under the names of +_black, silver, cross, red_, and _blue_ foxes. The two former are +considered by the Indians to be the same kind, varying accidentally in +the colour of the pelt. The black foxes are very rare and fetch a high +price. The cross and red foxes differ from each other only in colour +being of the same shape and size. Their shades of colour are not +disposed in any determinate manner, some individuals approaching in +that respect very nearly to the silver fox, others exhibiting every +link of the chain down to a nearly uniform deep or orange-yellow, the +distinguishing colour of a pure red fox. It is reported both by Indians +and traders that all the varieties have been found in the same litter. +The blue fox is seldom seen here and is supposed to come from the +southward. The gray wolf (_mahaygan_) is common here. In the month of +March the females frequently entice the domestic dog from the forts +although at other seasons a strong antipathy seemed to subsist between +them. Some black wolves are occasionally seen. The black and red +varieties of the American bear (_musquah_) are also found near +Cumberland House though not frequently; a black bear often has red +cubs, and _vice versâ_. The grizzly bear, so much dreaded by the +Indians for its strength and ferocity, inhabits a track of country +nearer the Rocky Mountains. It is extraordinary that although I made +inquiries extensively amongst the Indians I met with but one who said +that he had killed a she-bear with young in the womb. + +The wolverine, in Cree _okeekoohawgees_, or _ommeethatsees_, is an +animal of great strength and cunning and is much hated by the hunters +on account of the mischief it does to their marten-traps. The Canadian +lynx (_peeshew_) is a timid but well-armed animal which preys upon the +American hare. Its fur is esteemed. The marten (_wapeestan_) is one of +the most common furred animals in the country. The fisher, +notwithstanding its name, is an inhabitant of the land, living like the +common marten principally on mice. It is the _otchœk_ of the Crees, and +the _pekan_ of the Canadians. The mink (_atjackash_) has been often +confounded by writers with the fisher. It is a much smaller animal, +inhabits the banks of rivers, and swims well; its prey is fish. The +otter (_neekeek_) is larger than the English species and produces a +much more valuable fur. + +The muskrat (_watsuss_, or _musquash_) is very abundant in all the +small grassy lakes. They build small conical houses with a mixture of +hay and earth, those which build early raising their houses on the mud +of the marshes, and those which build later in the season founding +their habitations upon the surface of the ice itself. The house covers +a hole in the ice which permits them to go into the water in search of +the roots on which they feed. In severe winters when the small lakes +are frozen to the bottom and these animals cannot procure their usual +food they prey upon each other. In this way great numbers are +destroyed. + +The beaver (_ammisk_) furnish the staple fur of the country. Many +surprising stories have been told of the sagacity with which this +animal suits the form of its habitation, retreats, and dam, to local +circumstances; and I compared the account of its manners given by +Cuvier in his _Régne Animal_ with the reports of the Indians and found +them to agree exactly. They have been often seen in the act of +constructing their houses in the moonlight nights, and the observers +agree that the stones, wood, or other materials are carried in their +teeth and generally leaning against the shoulder. When they have placed +it to their mind they turn round and give it a smart blow with their +flat tail. In the act of diving they give a similar stroke to the +surface of the water. They keep their provision of wood under water in +front of the house. Their favourite food is the bark of the aspen, +birch and willow; they also eat the alder, but seldom touch any of the +pine tribe unless from necessity; they are fond of the large roots of +the _nuphar lutea_, and grow fat upon it but it gives their flesh a +strong rancid taste. In the season of love their call resembles a +groan, that of the male being the hoarsest, but the voice of the young +is exactly like the cry of a child. They are very playful as the +following anecdote will show: One day a gentleman, long resident in +this country, espied five young beavers sporting in the water, leaping +upon the trunk of a tree, pushing one another off and playing a +thousand interesting tricks. He approached softly under cover of the +bushes and prepared to fire on the unsuspecting creatures, but a nearer +approach discovered to him such a similitude betwixt their gestures and +the infantile caresses of his own children that he threw aside his gun. +This gentleman’s feelings are to be envied but few traders in fur would +have acted so feelingly. The muskrat frequently inhabits the same lodge +with the beaver and the otter also thrusts himself in occasionally; the +latter however is not always a civil guest as he sometimes devours his +host. + +These are the animals most interesting in an economical point of view. +The American hare and several kinds of grouse and ptarmigan also +contribute towards the support of the natives; and the geese, in their +periodical flights in the spring and autumn, likewise prove a valuable +resource both to the Indians and white residents; but the principal +article of food after the moose-deer is fish; indeed it forms almost +the sole support of the traders at some of the posts. The most esteemed +fish is the Coregonus albus, the _attihhawmeg_ of the Crees and the +_white-fish_ of the Americans. Its usual weight is between three and +four pounds, but it has been known to reach sixteen or eighteen pounds. +Three fish of the ordinary size is the daily allowance to each man at +the fort and is considered as equivalent to two geese or eight pounds +of solid moose-meat. The fishery for the attihhawmeg lasts the whole +year but is most productive in the spawning season from the middle of +September to the middle of October. The _ottonneebees_ (Coregonus +artedi) closely resembles the last. Three species of carp (Catastomus +hudsonius, C. forsterianus, and C. lesueurii) are also found abundantly +in all the lakes, their Cree names are _namaypeeth_, +_meethquawmaypeeth_, and _wapawhawkeeshew_. The occuw, or river perch, +termed also horn-fish, piccarel, or doré, is common, but is not so much +esteemed as the attihhawmeg. It attains the length of twenty inches in +these lakes. The methy is another common fish; it is the _gadus lota_, +or burbot, of Europe. Its length is about two feet, its gullet is +capacious and it preys upon fish large enough to distend its body to +nearly twice its proper size. It is never eaten, not even by the dogs, +unless through necessity but its liver and roe are considered as +delicacies. + +The pike is also plentiful and, being readily caught in the wintertime +with the hook, is so much prized on that account by the natives as to +receive from them the name of _eithinyoo-cannooshœoo_, or Indian fish. +The common trout, or _nammœcous_, grows here to an enormous size, being +caught in particular lakes, weighing upwards of sixty pounds; thirty +pounds is no uncommon size at Beaver Lake, from whence Cumberland House +is supplied. The Hioden clodalis, _oweepeetcheesees_, or gold-eye, is a +beautiful small fish which resembles the trout in its habits. + +One of the largest fish is the _mathemegh_, cat-fish, or _barbue_. It +belongs to the genus _silurus_. It is rare but is highly prized as +food. + +The sturgeon (Accipenser ruthenus) is also taken in the Saskatchewan +and lakes communicating with it and furnishes an excellent but rather +rich article of food. + + + + +CHAPTER 4. + +LEAVE CUMBERLAND HOUSE. MODE OF TRAVELLING IN WINTER. ARRIVAL AT +CARLTON HOUSE. STONE INDIANS. VISIT TO A BUFFALO POUND. GOITRES. +DEPARTURE FROM CARLTON HOUSE. ISLE A LA CROSSE. ARRIVAL AT FORT +CHIPEWYAN. + + +LEAVE CUMBERLAND HOUSE. + + +January 18, 1820. + +This day we set out from Cumberland House for Carlton House but, +previously to detailing the events of the journey, it may be proper to +describe the necessary equipments of a winter traveller in this region +which I cannot do better than by extracting the following brief but +accurate account of it from Mr. Hood’s journal: + +MODE OF TRAVELLING IN WINTER. + + +A snowshoe is made of two light bars of wood fastened together at their +extremities and projected into curves by transverse bars. The side bars +have been so shaped by a frame and dried before a fire that the front +part of the shoe turns up like the prow of a boat and the part behind +terminates in an acute angle; the spaces between the bars are filled up +with a fine netting of leathern thongs except that part behind the main +bar which is occupied by the feet; the netting is there close and +strong, and the foot is attached to the main bar by straps passing +round the heel but only fixing the toes so that the heel rises after +each step, and the tail of the shoe is dragged on the snow. Between the +main bar and another in front of it a small space is left, permitting +the toes to descend a little in the act of raising the heel to make the +step forward, which prevents their extremities from chafing. The length +of a snowshoe is from four to six feet and the breadth one foot and a +half, or one and three-quarters, being adapted to the size of the +wearer. The motion of walking in them is perfectly natural for one shoe +is level with the snow when the edge of the other is passing over it. +It is not easy to use them among bushes without frequent overthrows, +nor to rise afterwards without help. Each shoe weighs about two pounds +when unclogged with snow. The northern Indian snowshoes differ a little +from those of the southern Indians, having a greater curvature on the +outside of each shoe, one advantage of which is that when the foot +rises the over-balanced side descends and throws off the snow. All the +superiority of European art has been unable to improve the native +contrivance of this useful machine. + +Sledges are made of two or three flat boards curving upwards in front +and fastened together by transverse pieces of wood above. They are so +thin that, if heavily laden, they bend with the inequalities of the +surface over which they pass. The ordinary dog-sledges are eight or ten +feet long and very narrow, but the lading is secured to a lacing round +the edges. The cariole used by the traders is merely a covering of +leather for the lower part of the body, affixed to the common sledge +which is painted and ornamented according to the taste of the +proprietor. Besides snowshoes each individual carries his blanket, +hatchet, steel, flint, and tinder, and generally firearms. + +The general dress of the winter traveller is a _capot_, having a hood +to put up under the fur cap in windy weather or in the woods to keep +the snow from his neck, leathern trousers and Indian stockings which +are closed at the ankles round the upper part of his _moccasins_, or +Indian shoes to prevent the snow from getting into them. Over these he +wears a blanket or leathern coat which is secured by a belt round his +waist to which his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are suspended. + +Mr. Back and I were accompanied by the seaman John Hepburn; we were +provided with two carioles and two sledges, their drivers and dogs +being furnished in equal proportions by the two Companies. Fifteen +days’ provision so completely filled the sledges that it was with +difficulty we found room for a small sextant, one suit of clothes, and +three changes of linen, together with our bedding. Notwithstanding we +thus restricted ourselves and even loaded the carioles with part of the +luggage instead of embarking in them ourselves we did not set out +without considerable grumbling from the voyagers of both Companies +respecting the overlading of their dogs. However we left the matter to +be settled by our friends at the fort who were more conversant with +winter travelling than ourselves. Indeed the loads appeared to us so +great that we should have been inclined to listen to the complaints of +the drivers. The weight usually placed upon a sledge drawn by three +dogs cannot at the commencement of a journey be estimated at less than +three hundred pounds, which however suffers a daily diminution from the +consumption of provisions. The sledge itself weighs about thirty +pounds. When the snow is hard frozen or the track well trodden the rate +of travelling is about two miles and a half an hour, including rests, +or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow be loose the speed is +necessarily much less and the fatigue greater. + +At eight in the morning of the 18th we quitted the fort and took leave +of our hospitable friend Governor Williams whose kindness and attention +I shall ever remember with gratitude. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood, and Mr. +Connolly accompanied us along the Saskatchewan until the snow became +too deep for their walking without snowshoes. We then parted from our +associates with sincere regret at the prospect of a long separation. +Being accompanied by Mr. Mackenzie of the Hudson’s Bay Company who was +going to Isle à la Crosse with four sledges under his charge we formed +quite a procession, keeping in an Indian file on the track of the man +who preceded the foremost dogs; but as the snow was deep we proceeded +slowly on the surface of the river, which is about three hundred and +fifty yards wide, for the distance of six miles which we went this day. +Its alluvial banks and islands are clothed with willows. At the place +of our encampment we could scarcely find sufficient pine branches to +floor the hut, as the Orkney men term the place where travellers rest. +Its preparation however consists only in clearing away the snow to the +ground and covering that space with pine branches, over which the party +spread their blankets and coats and sleep in warmth and comfort by +keeping a good fire at their feet without any other canopy than the +heaven, even though the thermometer should be far below zero. + +The arrival at the place of encampment gives immediate occupation to +every one of the party; and it is not until the sleeping-place has been +arranged and a sufficiency of wood collected as fuel for the night that +the fire is allowed to be kindled. The dogs alone remain inactive +during this busy scene, being kept harnessed to their burdens until the +men have leisure to unstow the sledges and hang upon the trees every +species of provision out of their reach. We had ample experience before +morning of the necessity of this precaution as they contrived to steal +a considerable part of our stores almost from underneath Hepburn’s +head, notwithstanding their having been well fed at supper. + +This evening we found the mercury of our thermometer had sunk into the +bulb and was frozen. It rose again into the tube on being held to the +fire but quickly redescended into the bulb on being removed into the +air; we could not therefore ascertain by it the temperature of the +atmosphere either then or during our journey. The weather was perfectly +clear. + +January 19. + +We rose this morning after the enjoyment of a sound and comfortable +repose and recommenced our journey at sunrise but made slow progress +through the deep snow. The task of beating the track for the dogs was +so very fatiguing that each of the men took the lead in turn for an +hour and a half. The scenery of the banks of the river improved as we +advanced today; some firs and poplars were intermixed with the willows. +We passed through two creeks formed by islands, and encamped on a +pleasant spot on the north shore, having only made six miles and +three-quarters actual distance. + +The next day we pursued our course along the river; the dogs had the +greatest difficulty in dragging their heavy burdens through the snow. +We halted to refresh them at the foot of Sturgeon River and obtained +the latitude 53° 51′ 41″ North. This is a small stream which issues +from a neighbouring lake. We encamped near to Mosquito Point having +walked nine miles. The termination of the day’s journey was a great +relief to me who had been suffering during the greater part of it in +consequence of my feet having been galled by the snowshoes; this +however is an evil which few escape on their initiation to winter +travelling. It excites no pity from the more experienced companions of +the journey who travel on as fast as they can regardless of your pain. + +Mr. Isbester and an Orkney man joined us from Cumberland House and +brought some pemmican that we had left behind, a supply which was very +seasonable after our recent loss. The general occupation of Mr. +Isbester during the winter is to follow or find out the Indians and +collect their furs, and his present journey will appear adventurous to +persons accustomed to the certainty of travelling on a well-known road. +He was going in search of a band of Indians of whom no information had +been received since last October, and his only guide for finding them +was their promise to hunt in a certain quarter; but he looked at the +jaunt with indifference and calculated on meeting them in six or seven +days, for which time only he had provision. Few persons in this country +suffer more from want of food than those occasionally do who are +employed on this service. They are furnished with a sufficiency of +provision to serve until they reach the part where the Indians are +expected to be; but it frequently occurs that on their arrival at the +spot they have gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of snow has +hidden their track, in which case the voyagers have to wander about in +search of them; and it often happens when they succeed in finding the +Indians that they are unprovided with meat. Mr. Isbester had been +placed in this distressing situation only a few weeks ago and passed +four days without either himself or his dogs tasting food. At length +when he had determined on killing one of the dogs to satisfy his hunger +he happily met with a beaten track which led him to some Indian lodges +where he obtained food. + +The morning of the 21st was cold but pleasant for travelling. We left +Mr. Isbester and his companion and crossed the peninsula of Mosquito +Point to avoid a detour of several miles which the river makes. Though +we put up at an early hour we gained eleven miles this day. Our +encampment was at the lower extremity of Tobin’s Falls. The snow being +less deep on the rough ice which enclosed this rapid we proceeded on +the 22nd at a quicker pace than usual but at the expense of great +suffering to Mr. Back, myself and Hepburn, whose feet were much galled. +After passing Tobin’s Falls the river expands to the breadth of five +hundred yards, and its banks are well wooded with pines, poplars, birch +and willow. Many tracks of moose-deer and wolves were observed near the +encampment. + +On the 23rd the sky was generally overcast and there were several snow +showers. We saw two wolves and some foxes cross the river in the course +of the day and passed many tracks of the moose and red-deer. Soon after +we had encamped the snow fell heavily which was an advantage to us +after we had retired to rest by its affording an additional covering to +our blankets. The next morning at breakfast time two men arrived from +Carlton on their way to Cumberland. Having the benefit of their track +we were enabled, to our great joy, to march at a quick pace without +snowshoes. My only regret was that the party proceeded too fast to +allow of Mr. Back’s halting occasionally to note the bearings of the +points and delineate the course of the river,[13] without being left +behind. As the provisions were getting short I could not therefore with +propriety check the progress of the party; and indeed it appeared to me +less necessary as I understood the river had been carefully surveyed. +In the afternoon we had to resume the encumbrance of the snowshoes and +to pass over a rugged part where the ice had been piled over a +collection of stones. The tracks of animals were very abundant on the +river, particularly near the remains of an old establishment called the +Lower Nippeween. + + [13] This was afterwards done by Dr. Richardson during a voyage to + Carlton in the spring. + + +So much snow had fallen on the night of the 24th that the track we +intended to follow was completely covered and our march today was very +fatiguing. We passed the remains of two red-deer lying at the bases of +perpendicular cliffs from the summits of which they had probably been +forced by the wolves. These voracious animals, who are inferior in +speed to the moose or red-deer, are said frequently to have recourse to +this expedient in places where extensive plains are bounded by +precipitous cliffs. Whilst the deer are quietly grazing the wolves +assemble in great numbers and, forming a crescent, creep slowly towards +the herd so as not to alarm them much at first but, when they perceive +that they have fairly hemmed in the unsuspecting creatures and cut off +their retreat across the plain, they move more quickly and with hideous +yells terrify their prey and urge them to flight by the only open way, +which is that towards the precipice, appearing to know that when the +herd is once at full speed it is easily driven over the cliff, the +rearmost urging on those that are before. The wolves then descend at +their leisure and feast on the mangled carcasses. One of these animals +passed close to the person who was beating the track but did not offer +any violence. We encamped at sunset after walking thirteen miles. + +On the 26th we were rejoiced at passing the halfway point between +Cumberland and Carlton. The scenery of the river is less pleasing +beyond this point as there is a scarcity of wood. One of our men was +despatched after a red-deer that appeared on the bank. He contrived to +approach near enough to fire twice, though without success, before the +animal moved away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen miles we put up +at the Upper Nippeween, a deserted establishment, and performed the +comfortable operations of shaving and washing for the first time since +our departure from Cumberland, the weather having been hitherto too +severe. We passed an uncomfortable and sleepless night and agreed next +morning to encamp in future in the open air as preferable to the +imperfect shelter of a deserted house without doors or windows. + +The morning was extremely cold but fortunately the wind was light which +prevented our feeling it severely; experience indeed had taught us that +the sensation of cold depends less upon the state of temperature than +the force of the wind. An attempt was made to obtain the latitude which +failed in consequence of the screw that adjusts the telescope of the +sextant being immovably fixed from the moisture upon it having frozen. +The instrument could not be replaced in its case before the ice was +thawed by the fire in the evening. + +In the course of the day we passed the confluence of the south branch +of the Saskatchewan, which rises from the Rocky Mountains near the +sources of the northern branch of the Missouri. At Coles Falls, which +commence a distance from the branch, we found the surface of the ice +very uneven and many spots of open water. + +We passed the ruins of an establishment which the traders had been +compelled to abandon in consequence of the intractable conduct and +pilfering habits of the Assineboine or Stone Indians; and we learned +that all the residents at a post on the south branch had been cut off +by the same tribe some years ago. We travelled twelve miles today. The +wolves serenaded us through the night with a chorus of their agreeable +howling but none of them ventured near the encampment. But Mr. Back’s +repose was disturbed by a more serious evil: his buffalo robe caught +fire and the shoes on his feet being contracted by the heat gave him +such pain that he jumped up in the cold and ran into the snow as the +only means of obtaining relief. + +On the 28th we had a strong and piercing wind from North-West in our +faces and much snow-drift; we were compelled to walk as quick as we +could and to keep constantly rubbing the exposed parts of the skin to +prevent their being frozen, but some of the party suffered in spite of +every precaution. We descried three red-deer on the banks of the river +and were about to send the best marksmen after them when they espied +the party and ran away. A supply of meat would have been very +seasonable as the men’s provision had become scanty and the dogs were +without food except a little burnt leather. Owing to the scarcity of +wood we had to walk until a late hour before a good spot for an +encampment could be found and had then attained only eleven miles. The +night was miserably cold; our tea froze in the tin pots before we could +drink it and even a mixture of spirits and water became quite thick by +congelation; yet after we lay down to rest we felt no inconvenience and +heeded not the wolves though they were howling within view. + +The 29th was also very cold until the sun burst forth when the +travelling became pleasant. The banks of the river are very scantily +supplied with wood through the part we passed today. A long track on +the south shore called Holms Plains is destitute of anything like a +tree and the opposite bank has only stunted willows; but after walking +sixteen miles we came to a spot better wooded and encamped opposite to +a remarkable place called by the voyagers The Neck of Land. + +A short distance below our encampment, on the peninsula formed by the +confluence of the Net-setting river with the Saskatchewan, there stands +a representation of Kepoochikawn which was formerly held in high +veneration by the Indians and is still looked upon with some respect. +It is merely a large willow bush having its tops bound into a bunch. +Many offerings of value such as handsome dresses, hatchets, and +kettles, used to be made to it, but of late its votaries have been less +liberal. It was mentioned to us as a signal instance of its power that +a sacrilegious moose-deer, having ventured to crop a few of its tender +twigs, was found dead at the distance of a few yards. The bush having +now grown old and stunted is exempted from similar violations. + +On the 30th we directed our course round The Neck of Land which is well +clothed with pines and firs; though the opposite or western bank is +nearly destitute of wood. This contrast between the two banks continued +until we reached the commencement of what our companions called the +Barren Grounds when both the banks were alike bare. Vast plains extend +behind the southern bank which afford excellent pasturage for the +buffalo and other grazing animals. In the evening we saw a herd of the +former but could not get near to them. After walking fifteen miles we +encamped. The men’s provision having been entirely expended last night +we shared our small stock with them. The poor dogs had been toiling +some days on the most scanty fare; their rapacity in consequence was +unbounded; they forced open a deal box containing tea, etc. to get at a +small piece of meat which had been incautiously placed in it. + +ARRIVAL AT CARLTON HOUSE. + + +As soon as daylight permitted the party commenced their march in +expectation of reaching Carlton House to breakfast, but we did not +arrive before noon although the track was good. We were received by Mr. +Prudens, the gentleman in charge of the post, with that friendly +attention which Governor Williams’ circular was calculated to ensure at +every station; and were soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish +of buffalo steaks which would have been excellent under any +circumstances but were particularly relished by us after our travelling +fare of dried meat and pemmican, though eaten without either bread or +vegetables. After this repast we had the comfort of changing our +travelling dresses which had been worn for fourteen days; a +gratification which can only be truly estimated by those who have been +placed under similar circumstances. I was still in too great pain from +swellings in the ankles to proceed to La Montée, the North-West +Company’s establishment distant about three miles; but Mr. Hallet, the +gentleman in charge, came the following morning and I presented to him +the circular from Mr. S. McGillivray. He had already been furnished +however with a copy of it from Mr. Connolly, and was quite prepared to +assist us in our advance to the Athabasca. + +Mr. Back and I, having been very desirous to see some of the Stone +Indians who reside on the plains in this vicinity, learned with regret +that a large band of them had left the house on the preceding day, but +our curiosity was amply gratified by the appearance of some individuals +on the following and every subsequent day during our stay. + +The looks of these people would have prepossessed me in their favour +but for the assurances I had received from the gentlemen of the posts +of their gross and habitual treachery. Their countenances are affable +and pleasing; their eyes large and expressive, nose aquiline, teeth +white and regular, the forehead bold, the cheek-bones rather high. +Their figure is usually good, above the middle size with slender but +well proportioned limbs. Their colour is a light copper and they have a +profusion of very black hair which hangs over the ears and shades the +face. Their dress, which I think extremely neat and convenient, +consists of a vest and trousers of leather fitted to the body; over +these a buffalo robe is thrown gracefully. These dresses are in general +cleaned with _white-mud_, a sort of marl, though some use _red-earth_, +a kind of bog-iron-ore; but this colour neither looks so light nor +forms such an agreeable contrast as the white with the black hair of +the robe. Their quiver hangs behind them and in the hand is carried the +bow with an arrow always ready for attack or defence, and sometimes +they have a gun; they also carry a bag containing materials for making +a fire, some tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever valuables they +possess. This bag is neatly ornamented with porcupine quills. Thus +equipped the Stone Indian bears himself with an air of perfect +independence. + +The only articles of European commerce they require in exchange for the +meat they furnish to the trading post are tobacco, knives, ammunition, +and spirits, and occasionally some beads, but more frequently buttons +which they string in their hair as ornaments. A successful hunter will +probably have two or three dozen of them hanging at equal distances on +locks of hair from each side of the forehead. At the end of these locks +small coral bells are sometimes attached which tinkle at every motion +of the head, a noise which seems greatly to delight the wearer; +sometimes strings of buttons are bound round the head like a tiara; and +a bunch of feathers gracefully crowns the head. + +The Stone Indians steal whatever they can, particularly horses; these +animals they maintain are common property sent by the Almighty for the +general use of man and therefore may be taken wherever met with; still +they admit the right of the owners to watch them and to prevent theft +if possible. This avowed disposition on their part calls forth the +strictest vigilance at the different posts; notwithstanding which the +most daring attacks are often made with success, sometimes on parties +of three or four but oftener on individuals. About two years ago a band +of them had the audacity to attempt to take away some horses which were +grazing before the gate of the North-West Company’s fort and, after +braving the fire from the few people then at the establishment through +the whole day and returning their shots occasionally, they actually +succeeded in their enterprise. One man was killed on each side. They +usually strip defenceless persons whom they meet of all their garments, +but particularly of those which have buttons, and leave them to travel +alone in that state, however severe the weather. If resistance be +expected they not unfrequently murder before they attempt to rob. The +traders when they travel invariably keep some men on guard to prevent +surprise whilst the others sleep; and often practise the stratagem of +lighting a fire at sunset, which they leave burning, and move on after +dark to a more distant encampment—yet these precautions do not always +baffle the depredators. Such is the description of men whom the traders +of this river have constantly to guard against. It must require a long +residence among them and much experience of their manners to overcome +the apprehensions their hostility and threats are calculated to excite. +Through fear of having their provisions and supplies entirely cut off +the traders are often obliged to overlook the grossest offences, even +murder, though the delinquents present themselves with unblushing +effrontery almost immediately after the fact and perhaps boast of it. +They do not on detection consider themselves under any obligation to +deliver up what they have stolen without receiving an equivalent. + +STONE INDIANS. + + +The Stone Indians keep in amity with their neighbours the Crees from +motives of interest; and the two tribes unite in determined hostility +against the nations dwelling to the westward which are generally called +Slave Indians—a term of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes +against whom they have waged successful wars. The Slave Indians are +said greatly to resemble the Stone Indians, being equally desperate and +daring in their acts of aggression and dishonesty towards the traders. + +These parties go to war almost every summer and sometimes muster three +or four hundred horsemen on each side. Their leaders, in approaching +the foe, exercise all the caution of the most skilful generals; and +whenever either party considers that it has gained the best ground, or +finds it can surprise the other, the attack is made. They advance at +once to close quarters and the slaughter is consequently great though +the battle may be short. The prisoners of either sex are seldom spared +but slain on the spot with wanton cruelty. The dead are scalped and he +is considered the bravest person who bears the greatest number of +scalps from the field. These are afterwards attached to his war dress +and worn as proofs of his prowess. The victorious party during a +certain time blacken their faces and every part of their dress in token +of joy, and in that state they often come to the establishment, if +near, to testify their delight by dancing and singing, bearing all the +horrid insignia of war, to display their individual feats. When in +mourning they completely cover their dress and hair with white mud. + +The Crees in the vicinity of Carlton House have the same cast of +countenance as those about Cumberland but are much superior to them in +appearance, living in a more abundant country. These men are more +docile, tractable, and industrious than the Stone Indians and bring +greater supplies of provision and furs to the posts. Their general mode +of dress resembles that of the Stone Indians; but sometimes they wear +cloth leggings, blankets, and other useful articles when they can +afford to purchase them. They also decorate their hair with buttons. + +The Crees procure guns from the traders and use them in preference to +the bow and arrow; and from them the Stone Indians often get supplied +either by stealth, gaming, or traffic. Like the rest of their nation +these Crees are remarkably fond of spirits and would make any sacrifice +to obtain them. I regretted to find the demand for this pernicious +article had greatly increased within the last few years. The following +notice of these Indians is extracted from Dr. Richardson’s Journal: + +The Asseenaboine, termed by the Crees Asseeneepoytuck or Stone Indians, +are a tribe of Sioux who speak a dialect of the Iroquois, one of the +great divisions under which the American philologists have classed the +known dialects of the aborigines of North America. The Stone Indians +or, as they name themselves, _Eascab_, originally entered this part of +the country under the protection of the Crees and, in concert with +them, attacked and drove to the westward the former inhabitants of the +banks of the Saskatchewan. They are still the allies of the Crees but +have now become more numerous than their former protectors. They +exhibit all the bad qualities ascribed to the Mengwe or Iroquois, the +stock whence they are sprung. Of their actual number I could obtain no +precise information but it is very great. The Crees who inhabit the +plains, being fur hunters, are better known to the traders. + +They are divided into two distinct bands, the Ammiskwatchhethinyoowuc +or Beaver Hill Crees, who have about forty tents and the +Sackaweethinyoowuc or Thick Wood Crees who have thirty-five. The tents +average nearly ten inmates each, which gives a population of seven +hundred and fifty to the whole. + +The nations who were driven to the westward by the Eascab and Crees are +termed, in general, by the latter, Yatcheethinyoowuc, which has been +translated Slave Indians but more properly signifies Strangers. + +They now inhabit the country around Fort Augustus, and towards the foot +of the Rocky Mountains, and have increased in strength until they have +become an object of terror to the Eascab themselves. They rear a great +number of horses, make use of firearms, and are fond of European +articles, in order to purchase which they hunt the beaver and other +furred animals, but they depend principally on the buffalo for +subsistence. + +They are divided into five nations: + +First, the Pawausticeythinyoowuc, or Fall Indians, so named from their +former residence on the falls of the Saskatchewan. They are the +Minetarres with whom Captain Lewis’s party had a conflict on their +return from the Missouri. They have about four hundred and fifty or +five hundred tents; their language is very guttural and difficult. + +Second, the Peganooeythinyoowuc Pegans, or Muddy River Indians named in +their own language Peganoekoon, have four hundred tents. + +Third, the Meethcothinyoowuc, or Blood Indians, named by themselves +Kainoekoon, have three hundred tents. + +Fourth, the _Cuskœteh-waw-thésseetuck_, or Blackfoot Indians, in their +own language Saxoekoekoon, have three hundred and fifty tents. + +The last three nations or tribes, the Pegans, Blood Indians, and +Blackfeet, speak the same language. It is pronounced in a slow and +distinct tone, has much softness, and is easily acquired by their +neighbours. I am assured by the best interpreters in the country that +it bears no affinity to the Cree, Sioux, or Chipewyan languages. + +Lastly the Sassees, or Circees, have one hundred and fifty tents; they +speak the same language with their neighbours, the Snare Indians, who +are a tribe of the extensive family of the Chipewyans.[14] + + [14] As the subjects may be interesting to philologists I subjoin a + few words of the Blackfoot language: + +Peestâh kan: tobacco. +Moohksee: an awl. +Nappœ-oòhkee: rum. +Cook keet: give me. +Eeninee: buffalo. +Pooxāpoot: come here. +Kat œtsits: none, I have none. +Keet stā kee: a beaver. +Naum: a bow. +Stooan: a knife. +Sassoopats: ammunition. +Meenee: beads. +Poommees: fat. +Miss ta poot: keep off. +Saw: no. +Stwee: cold; it is cold. +Pennākomit: a horse. +Ahseeu: good. + +VISIT TO A BUFFALO POUND. + + +On the 6th of February we accompanied Mr. Prudens on a visit to a Cree +encampment and a buffalo pound about six miles from the house; we found +seven tents pitched within a small cluster of pines which adjoined the +pound. The largest, which we entered, belonged to the chief who was +absent but came in on learning our arrival. The old man (about sixty) +welcomed us with a hearty shake of the hand and the customary +salutation of “What cheer!” an expression which they have gained from +the traders. As we had been expected they had caused the tent to be +neatly arranged, fresh grass was spread on the ground, buffalo robes +were placed on the side opposite the door for us to sit on, and a +kettle was on the fire to boil meat for us. + +After a few minutes’ conversation an invitation was given to the chief +and his hunters to smoke the calumet with us as a token of our +friendship: this was loudly announced through the camp and ten men from +the other tents immediately joined our party. On their entrance the +women and children withdrew, their presence on such occasions being +contrary to etiquette. The calumet having been prepared and lighted by +Mr. Prudens’ clerk was presented to the chief who performed the +following ceremony before he commenced smoking: He first pointed the +stem to the south, then to the west, north, and east, and afterwards to +the heavens, the earth and the fire, as an offering to the presiding +spirits; he took three whiffs only and then passed the pipe to his next +companion who took the same number of whiffs and so did each person as +it went round. After the calumet had been replenished the person who +then commenced repeated only the latter part of the ceremony, pointing +the stem to the heavens, the earth and the fire. Some spirits mixed +with water were presented to the old man who before he drank demanded a +feather which he dipped into the cup several times and sprinkled the +moisture on the ground, pronouncing each time a prayer. His first +address to the Keetchee Manitou, or Great Spirit, was that buffalo +might be abundant everywhere and that plenty might come into their +pound. He next prayed that the other animals might be numerous and +particularly those which were valuable for their furs, and then +implored that the party present might escape the sickness which was at +that time prevalent and be blessed with constant health. Some other +supplications followed which we could not get interpreted without +interrupting the whole proceeding; but at every close the whole Indian +party assented by exclaiming Aha; and when he had finished the old man +drank a little and passed the cup round. After these ceremonies each +person smoked at his leisure and they engaged in a general conversation +which I regretted not understanding as it seemed to be very humorous, +exciting frequent bursts of laughter. The younger men in particular +appeared to ridicule the abstinence of one of the party who neither +drank nor smoked. He bore their jeering with perfect composure and +assured them, as I was told, they would be better if they would follow +his example. I was happy to learn from Mr. Prudens that this man was +not only one of the best hunters but the most cheerful and contented of +the tribe. + +Four Stone Indians arrived at this time and were invited into the tent +but one only accepted the invitation and partook of the fare. When Mr. +Prudens heard the others refuse he gave immediate directions that our +horses should be narrowly watched as he suspected these fellows wished +to carry them off. Having learned that these Crees considered Mr. Back +and myself to be war chiefs possessing great power and that they +expected we should make some address to them I desired them to be kind +to the traders, to be industrious in procuring them provision and furs, +and to refrain from stealing their stores and horses; and I assured +them that if I heard of their continuing to behave kindly I would +mention their good conduct in the strongest terms to their Great Father +across the sea (by which appellation they designate the King) whose +favourable consideration they had been taught by the traders to value +most highly. + +They all promised to follow my advice and assured me it was not they +but the Stone Indians who robbed and annoyed the traders. The Stone +Indian who was present heard this accusation against his tribe quite +unmoved, but he probably did not understand the whole of the +communication. We left them to finish their rum and went to look round +the lodges and examine the pound. + +The greatest proportion of labour in savage life falls to the women; we +now saw them employed in dressing skins, and conveying wood, water, and +provision. As they have often to fetch the meat from some distance they +are assisted in this duty by their dogs which are not harnessed in +sledges but carry their burdens in a manner peculiarly adapted to this +level country. Two long poles are fastened by a collar to the dog’s +neck; their ends trail on the ground and are kept at a proper distance +by a hoop which is lashed between them immediately behind the dog’s +tail; the hoop is covered with network upon which the load is placed. + +The boys were amusing themselves by shooting arrows at a mark and thus +training to become hunters. The Stone Indians are so expert with the +bow and arrow that they can strike a very small object at a +considerable distance and will shoot with sufficient force to pierce +through the body of a buffalo when near. + +The buffalo pound was a fenced circular space of about a hundred yards +in diameter; the entrance was banked up with snow to a sufficient +height to prevent the retreat of the animals that once have entered. +For about a mile on each side of the road leading to the pound stakes +were driven into the ground at nearly equal distances of about twenty +yards; these were intended to represent men and to deter the animals +from attempting to break out on either side. Within fifty or sixty +yards from the pound branches of trees were placed between these stakes +to screen the Indians who lie down behind them to await the approach of +the buffalo. + +The principal dexterity in this species of chase is shown by the +horsemen who have to manœuvre round the herd in the plains so as to +urge them to enter the roadway which is about a quarter of a mile +broad. When this has been accomplished they raise loud shouts and, +pressing close upon the animals, so terrify them that they rush +heedlessly forward towards the snare. When they have advanced as far as +the men who are lying in ambush they also rise and increase the +consternation by violent shouting and firing guns. The affrighted +beasts having no alternative run directly to the pound where they are +quickly despatched either with an arrow or gun. + +There was a tree in the centre of the pound on which the Indians had +hung strips of buffalo flesh and pieces of cloth as tributary or +grateful offerings to the Great Master of Life; and we were told that +they occasionally place a man in the tree to sing to the presiding +spirit as the buffaloes are advancing who must keep his station until +the whole that have entered are killed. This species of hunting is very +similar to that of taking elephants on the island of Ceylon but upon a +smaller scale. + +The Crees complained to us of the audacity of a party of Stone Indians +who two nights before had stripped their revered tree of many of its +offerings and had injured their pound by setting their stakes out of +the proper places. + +Other modes of killing the buffalo are practised by the Indians with +success; of these the hunting them on horseback requires most +dexterity. An expert hunter, when well mounted, dashes at the herd and +chooses an individual which he endeavours to separate from the rest. If +he succeeds he contrives to keep him apart by the proper management of +his horse though going at full speed. Whenever he can get sufficiently +near for a ball to penetrate the beast’s hide he fires and seldom fails +of bringing the animal down; though of course he cannot rest the piece +against the shoulder nor take a deliberate aim. On this service the +hunter is often exposed to considerable danger from the fall of his +horse in the numerous holes which the badgers make in these plains, and +also from the rage of the buffalo which when closely pressed often +turns suddenly and, rushing furiously on the horse, frequently succeeds +in wounding it or dismounting the rider. Whenever the animal shows this +disposition which the experienced hunter will readily perceive he +immediately pulls up his horse and goes off in another direction. + +When the buffaloes are on their guard horses cannot be used in +approaching them; but the hunter dismounts at some distance and crawls +in the snow towards the herd, pushing his gun before him. If the +buffaloes happen to look towards him he stops and keeps quite +motionless until their eyes are turned in another direction; by this +cautious proceeding a skilful person will get so near as to be able to +kill two or three out of the herd. It will easily be imagined this +service cannot be very agreeable when the thermometer stands 30 or 40° +below zero as sometimes happens in this country. + +As we were returning from the tents the dogs that were harnessed to +three sledges, in one of which Mr. Back was seated, set off in pursuit +of a buffalo-calf. Mr. Back was speedily thrown from his vehicle and +had to join me in my horse-cariole. Mr. Heriot, having gone to recover +the dogs, found them lying exhausted beside the calf which they had +baited until it was as exhausted as themselves. Mr. Heriot, to show us +the mode of hunting on horseback or as the traders term it, running of +the buffalo, went in chase of a cow and killed it after firing three +shots. + +The buffalo is a huge and shapeless animal quite devoid of grace or +beauty; particularly awkward in running but by no means slow; when put +to his speed he plunges through the deep snow very expeditiously; the +hair is dark brown, very shaggy, curling about the head, neck, and +hump, and almost covering the eye, particularly in the bull which is +larger and more unsightly than the cow. The most esteemed part of the +animal is the hump, called by the Canadians _bos_, by the Hudson’s Bay +people the _wig;_ it is merely a strong muscle on which nature at +certain seasons forms a considerable quantity of fat. It is attached to +the long spinous processes of the first dorsal vertebrae and seems to +be destined to support the enormous head of the animal. The meat which +covers the spinal processes themselves after the wig is removed is next +in esteem for its flavour and juiciness and is more exclusively termed +the hump by the hunters. + +The party was prevented from visiting a Stone Indian encampment by a +heavy fall of snow, which made it impracticable to go and return the +same day. We were dissuaded from sleeping at their tents by the +interpreter at the North-West post who told us they considered the +whooping-cough and measles, under which they were now suffering, to +have been introduced by some white people recently arrived in the +country, and that he feared those who had lost relatives, imagining we +were the persons, might vent their revenge on us. We regretted to learn +that these diseases had been so very destructive among the tribes along +the Saskatchewan as to have carried off about three hundred persons, +Crees and Asseenaboines, within the trading circle of these +establishments. The interpreter also informed us of another bad trait +peculiar to the Stone Indians. Though they receive a visitor kindly at +their tents and treat him very hospitably during his stay yet it is +very probable they will despatch some young men to waylay and rob him +in going towards the post: indeed all the traders assured us it was +more necessary to be vigilantly on our guard on the occasion of a visit +to them than at any other time. + +Carlton House (which our observations place in latitude 52° 50′ 47″ +North, longitude 106° 12′ 42″ West, variation 20° 44′ 47″ East) is +pleasantly situated about a quarter of a mile from the river’s side on +the flat ground under the shelter of the high banks that bound the +plains. The land is fertile and produces with little trouble ample +returns of wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes. The ground is prepared +for the reception of these vegetables about the middle of April and +when Dr. Richardson visited this place on May 10th the blade of wheat +looked strong and healthy. There were only five acres in cultivation at +the period of my visit. The prospect from the fort must be pretty in +summer owing to the luxuriant verdure of this fertile soil; but in the +uniform and cheerless garb of winter it has little to gratify the eye. + +Beyond the steep bank behind the house commences the vast plain whose +boundaries are but imperfectly known; it extends along the south branch +of the Saskatchewan and towards the sources of the Missouri and +Asseenaboine Rivers, being scarcely interrupted through the whole of +this great space by hills or even rising grounds. The excellent +pasturage furnishes food in abundance to a variety of grazing animals +of which the buffalo, red-deer, and a species of antelope are the most +important. Their presence naturally attracts great hordes of wolves +which are of two kinds, the large, and the small. Many bears prowl +about the banks of this river in summer; of these the grizzly bear is +the most ferocious and is held in dread both by Indians and Europeans. +The traveller in crossing these plains not only suffers from the want +of food and water but is also exposed to hazard from his horse +stumbling in the numerous badger-holes. In many large districts the +only fuel is the dried dung of the buffalo; and when a thirsty +traveller reaches a spring he has not unfrequently the mortification to +find the water salt. + +Carlton House and La Montée are provision-posts, only an inconsiderable +quantity of furs being obtained at either of them. The provisions are +procured in the winter season from the Indians in the form of dried +meat and fat and, when converted by mixture into pemmican, furnish the +principal support of the voyagers in their passages to and from the +depôts in summer. A considerable quantity of it is also kept for winter +use at most of the fur-posts as the least bulky article that can be +taken on a winter journey. The mode of making pemmican is very simple, +the meat is dried by the Indians in the sun or over a fire, and pounded +by beating it with stones when spread on a skin. In this state it is +brought to the forts where the admixture of hair is partially sifted +out and a third part of melted fat incorporated with it, partly by +turning the two over with a wooden shovel, partly by kneading them +together with the hands. The pemmican is then firmly pressed into +leathern bags, each capable of containing eighty-five pounds and, being +placed in an airy place to cool, is fit for use. It keeps in this state +if not allowed to get wet very well for one year and with great care it +may be preserved good for two. Between three and four hundred bags were +made here by each of the Companies this year. + +There were eight men besides Mr. Prudens and his clerk belonging to +Carlton House. At La Montée there were seventy Canadians and +half-breeds and sixty women and children who consumed upwards of seven +hundred pounds of buffalo meat daily, the allowance per diem for each +man being eight pounds: a portion not so extravagant as may at first +appear when allowance is made for bone and the entire want of +farinaceous food or vegetables. + +There are other provision posts, Fort Augustus and Edmonton farther up +the river, from whence some furs are also procured. The Stone Indians +have threatened to cut off the supplies in going up to these +establishments to prevent their enemies from obtaining ammunition and +other European articles; but as these menaces have been frequently made +without being put in execution the traders now hear them without any +great alarm though they take every precaution to prevent being +surprised. Mr. Back and I were present when an old Cree communicated to +Mr. Prudens that the Indians spoke of killing all the white people in +that vicinity this year which information he received with perfect +composure and was amused as well as ourselves with the man’s judicious +remark which immediately followed, “A pretty state we shall then be in +without the goods you bring us.” + +GOITRES. + + +The following remarks on a well-known disease are extracted from Dr. +Richardson’s Journal: + +Bronchocele or Goitre is a common disorder at Edmonton. I examined +several of the individuals afflicted with it and endeavoured to obtain +every information on the subject from the most authentic sources. The +following facts may be depended upon. The disorder attacks those only +who drink the water of the river. It is indeed in its worst state +confined almost entirely to the half-breed women and children who +reside constantly at the fort and make use of river water drawn in the +winter through a hole cut in the ice. The men, being often from home on +journeys through the plain, when their drink is melted snow, are less +affected; and if any of them exhibit during the winter some incipient +symptoms of the complaint the annual summer voyage to the sea-coast +generally effects a cure. The natives who confine themselves to +snow-water in the winter and drink of the small rivulets which flow +through the plains in the summer are exempt from the attacks of this +disease. + +These facts are curious inasmuch as they militate against the generally +received opinion that the disease is caused by drinking snow-water; an +opinion which seems to have originated from bronchocele being endemial +to subalpine districts. + +The Saskatchewan at Edmonton is clear in the winter and also in the +summer except during the May and July floods. This distance from the +Rocky Mountains (which I suppose to be of primitive formation) is +upwards of one hundred and thirty miles. The neighbouring plains are +alluvial, the soil is calcareous and contains numerous travelled +fragments of limestone. At a considerable distance below Edmonton the +river, continuing its course through the plains, becomes turbid and +acquires a white colour. In this state it is drunk by the inmates of +Carlton House where the disease is known only by name. It is said that +the inhabitants of Rocky Mountain House, sixty miles nearer the source +of the river are more severely affected than those at Edmonton. The +same disease occurs near the sources of the Elk and Peace Rivers; but +in those parts of the country which are distant from the Rocky Mountain +Chain it is unknown although melted snow forms the only drink of the +natives for nine months of the year. + +A residence of a single year at Edmonton is sufficient to render a +family bronchocelous. Many of the goitres acquire great size. Burnt +sponge has been tried and found to remove the disease but an exposure +to the same cause immediately reproduces it. + +A great proportion of the children of women who have goitres are born +idiots with large heads and the other distinguishing marks of +_cretins_. I could not learn whether it was necessary that both parents +should have goitres to produce cretin children: indeed the want of +chastity in the half-breed women would be a bar to the deduction of any +inference on this head. + +DEPARTURE FROM CARLTON HOUSE. + + +February 8. + +Having recovered from the swellings and pains which our late march from +Cumberland had occasioned we prepared for the commencement of our +journey to Isle à la Crosse, and requisitions were made on both the +establishments for the means of conveyance and the necessary supply of +provisions for the party which were readily furnished. On the 9th the +carioles and sledges were loaded and sent off after breakfast; but Mr. +Back and I remained till the afternoon as Mr. Prudens had offered that +his horses should convey us to the encampment. At three P.M. we parted +from our kind host and, in passing through the gate, were honoured with +a salute of musketry. After riding six miles we joined the men at their +encampment which was made under the shelter of a few poplars. The dogs +had been so much fatigued in wading through the very deep snow with +their heavy burdens, having to drag upwards of ninety pounds’ weight +each, that they could get no farther. Soon after our arrival the snow +began to fall heavily and it continued through the greater part of the +night. + +Our next day’s march was therefore particularly tedious, the snow being +deep and the route lying across an unvarying level, destitute of wood +except one small cluster of willows. In the afternoon we reached the +end of the plain and came to an elevation on which poplars, willows, +and some pines grew, where we encamped, having travelled ten miles. We +crossed three small lakes, two of fresh water and one of salt, near the +latter of which we encamped and were in consequence obliged to use for +our tea water made from snow which has always a disagreeable taste. + +We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following morning when a large +herd of red-deer was perceived grazing at a little distance; and though +we were amply supplied with provision our Canadian companions could not +resist the temptation of endeavouring to add to our stock. A half-breed +hunter was therefore sent after them. He succeeded in wounding one but +not so as to prevent its running off with the herd in a direction wide +of our course. A couple of rabbits and a brace of wood partridges were +shot in the afternoon. There was an agreeable variety of hill and dale +in the scenery we passed through today, and sufficient wood for +ornament but not enough to crowd the picture. The valleys were +intersected by several small lakes and pools whose snowy covering was +happily contrasted with the dark green of the pine-trees which +surrounded them. After ascending a moderately high hill by a winding +path through a close wood we opened suddenly upon Lake Iroquois and had +a full view of its picturesque shores. We crossed it and encamped. + +Though the sky was cloudless yet the weather was warm. We had the +gratification of finding a beaten track soon after we started on the +morning of the 12th and were thus enabled to walk briskly. We crossed +at least twenty hills and found a small lake or pool at the foot of +each. The destructive ravages of fire were visible during the greater +part of the day. The only wood we saw for miles together consisted of +pine-trees stripped of their branches and bark by this element: in +other parts poplars alone were growing which we have remarked +invariably to succeed the pine after a conflagration. We walked twenty +miles today but the direct distance was only sixteen. + +The remains of an Indian hut were found in a deep glen and close to it +was placed a pile of wood which our companions supposed to cover a +deposit of provision. Our Canadian voyagers, induced by their +insatiable desire of procuring food, proceeded to remove the upper +pieces and examine its contents when, to their surprise, they found the +body of a female, clothed in leather, which appeared to have been +recently placed there. Her former garments, the materials for making a +fire, a fishing-line, a hatchet, and a bark dish were laid beside the +corpse. The wood was carefully replaced. A small owl, perched on a tree +near to the spot, called forth many singular remarks from our +companions as to its being a good or bad omen. + +We walked the whole of the 13th over flat meadow-land which is much +resorted to by the buffalo at all seasons. Some herds of them were seen +which our hunters were too unskilful to approach. In the afternoon we +reached the Stinking Lake which is nearly of an oval form. Its shores +are very low and swampy to which circumstances and not to the bad +quality of the waters it owes its Indian name. Our observations place +its western part in latitude 53° 25′ 24″ North, longitude 107° 18′ 58″ +West, variation 20° 32′ 10″ East. + +After a march of fifteen miles and a half we encamped among a few pines +at the only spot where we saw sufficient wood for making our fire +during the day. The next morning about an hour after we had commenced +our march we came upon a beaten track and perceived recent marks of +snowshoes. In a short time an Iroquois joined us, who was residing with +a party of Cree Indians, to secure the meat and furs they should +collect for the North-West Company. He accompanied us as far as the +stage on which his meat was placed and then gave us a very pressing +invitation to halt for the day and partake of his fare which, as the +hour was too early, we declined, much to the annoyance of our Canadian +companions who had been cherishing the prospect of indulging their +amazing appetites at this well-furnished store ever since the man had +been with us. He gave them however a small supply previous to our +parting. The route now crossed some ranges of hills on which fir, birch +and poplar grew so thickly that we had much difficulty in getting the +sledges through the narrow pathway between them. In the evening we +descended from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy meadows, and +encamped at their northern extremity within a cluster of large +pine-trees, the branches of which were elegantly decorated with +abundance of a greenish yellow lichen. Our march was ten miles. The +weather was very mild, almost too warm for the exercise we were taking. + +We had a strong gale from the North-West during the night which +subsided as the morning opened. One of the sledges had been so much +broken the day before in the woods that we had to divide its cargo +among the others. We started after this had been arranged and, finding +almost immediately a firm track, soon arrived at some Indian lodges to +which it led. The inhabitants were Crees belonging to the posts on the +Saskatchewan from whence they had come to hunt beaver. We made but a +short stay and proceeded through a swamp to Pelican Lake. Our view to +the right was bounded by a range of lofty hills which extended for +several miles in a north and south direction which, it may be remarked, +was that of all the hilly land we had passed since quitting the plain. + +Pelican Lake is of an irregular form, about six miles from east to west +and eight from north to south; it decreases to the breadth of a mile +towards the northern extremity and is there terminated by a creek. We +went up this creek for a short distance and then struck into the woods +and encamped among a cluster of the firs which the Canadians term +cyprès (_Pinus banksiana_) having come fourteen miles and a half. + +February 16. + +Shortly after commencing the journey today we met an Indian and his +family who had come from the houses at Green Lake; they informed us the +track was well beaten the whole way. We therefore put forth our utmost +speed in the hope of reaching them by night but were disappointed, and +had to halt at dark about twelve miles from them in a fisherman’s hut +which was unoccupied. Frequent showers of snow fell during the day and +the atmosphere was thick and gloomy. + +We started at an early hour the following morning and reached the +Hudson’s Bay Company’s post to breakfast, and were received very kindly +by Mr. MacFarlane, the gentleman in charge. The other establishment, +situated on the opposite side of the river, was under the direction of +Mr. Dugald Cameron, one of the partners of the North-West Company on +whom Mr. Back and I called soon after our arrival and were honoured +with a salute of musketry. + +These establishments are small but said to be well situated for +procuring furs; as the numerous creeks in their vicinity are much +resorted to by the beaver, otter and musquash. The residents usually +obtain a superabundant supply of provision. This season however they +barely had sufficient for their own support, owing to the epidemic +which has incapacitated the Indians for hunting. The Green Lake lies +nearly north and south, is eighteen miles in length and does not exceed +one mile and a half of breadth in any part. The water is deep and it is +in consequence one of the last lakes in the country that is frozen. +Excellent tittameg and trout are caught in it from March to December +but after that time most of the fish remove to some larger lake. + +We remained two days awaiting the return of some men who had been sent +to the Indian lodges for meat and who were to go on with us. Mr. Back +and I did not need this rest, having completely surmounted the pain +occasioned by the snowshoes. We dined twice with Mr. Cameron and +received from him many useful suggestions respecting our future +operations. This gentleman, having informed us that provisions would +probably be very scarce next spring in the Athabasca department in +consequence of the sickness of the Indians during the hunting season, +undertook at my request to cause a supply of pemmican to be conveyed +from the Saskatchewan to Isle à la Crosse for our use during the +winter, and I wrote to apprise Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood that they +would find it at the latter post when they passed, and also to desire +them to bring as much as the canoes would stow from Cumberland. + +The atmosphere was clear and cold during our stay; observations were +obtained at the Hudson’s Bay Fort, latitude 54° 16′ 10″ North, +longitude 107° 29′ 52″ West, variation 22° 6′ 35″ East. + +February 20. + +Having been equipped with carioles, sledges and provisions from the two +posts, we this day recommenced our journey and were much amused by the +novelty of the salute given at our departure, the guns being +principally fired by the women in the absence of the men. Our course +was directed to the end of the lake and for a short distance along a +small river; we then crossed the woods to the Beaver River which we +found to be narrow and very serpentine, having moderately high banks. +We encamped about one mile and a half farther up among poplars. The +next day we proceeded along the river; it was winding and about two +hundred yards broad. We passed the mouths of two rivers whose waters it +receives; the latter one we were informed is a channel by which the +Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake. The banks of the river became +higher as we advanced and were adorned with pines, poplars and willows. + +Though the weather was very cold we travelled more comfortably than at +any preceding time since our departure from Cumberland as we had light +carioles which enabled us to ride nearly the whole day warmly covered +up with a buffalo robe. We were joined by Mr. McLeod of the North-West +Company who had kindly brought some things from Green Lake which our +sledges could not carry. Pursuing our route along the river we reached +at an early hour the upper extremity of the Grand Rapid where the ice +was so rough that the carioles and sledges had to be conveyed across a +point of land. Soon after noon we left the river, inclining North-East, +and directed our course North-West until we reached Long Lake and +encamped at its northern extremity, having come twenty-three miles. +This lake is about fourteen miles long and from three-quarters to one +mile and a half broad, its shores and islands low but well wooded. +There were frequent snow-showers during the day. + +ISLE A LA CROSSE. + + +February 23. + +The night was very stormy but the wind became more moderate in the +morning. We passed today through several nameless lakes and swamps +before we came to Train Lake which received its name from being the +place where the traders procured the birch to make their sledges or +traineaux; but this wood has been all used and there only remain pines +and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden with fish, kindly sent to +meet us by Mr. Clark of the Hudson’s Bay Company on hearing of our +approach. Towards the evening the weather became much more unpleasant +and we were exposed to a piercingly cold wind and much snowdrift in +traversing the Isle à la Crosse Lake; we were therefore highly pleased +at reaching the Hudson’s Bay House by six P.M. We were received in the +most friendly manner by Mr. Clark and honoured by volleys of musketry. +Similar marks of attention were shown to us on the following day by Mr. +Bethune, the partner in charge of the North-West Company’s fort. I +found here the letters which I had addressed from Cumberland in +November last to the partners of the North-West Company in the +Athabasca, which circumstance convinced me of the necessity of our +present journey. + +These establishments are situated on the southern side of the lake and +close to each other. They are forts of considerable importance being +placed at a point of communication with the English River, the +Athabasca and Columbia Districts. The country around them is low and +intersected with water, and was formerly much frequented by beavers and +otters which however have been so much hunted by the Indians that their +number is greatly decreased. The Indians frequenting these forts are +the Crees and some Chipewyans; they scarcely ever come except in the +spring and autumn, in the former season to bring their winter’s +collection of furs and in the latter to get the stores they require. + +Three Chipewyan lads came in during our stay to report what furs the +band to which they belonged had collected and to desire they might be +sent for, the Indians having declined bringing either furs or meat +themselves since the opposition between the Companies commenced. Mr. +Back drew a portrait of one of the boys. + +Isle à la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island situated near +the forts on which the Indians formerly assembled annually to amuse +themselves at the game of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for +abundance of the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen +pounds. The residents live principally upon this most delicious fish +which fortunately can be eaten a long time without disrelish. It is +plentifully caught with nets throughout the year except for two or +three months. + +March 4. + +We witnessed the Aurora Borealis very brilliant for the second time +since our departure from Cumberland. A winter encampment is not a +favourable situation for viewing this phenomenon as the trees in +general hide the sky. Arrangements had been made for recommencing our +journey today but the wind was stormy and the snow had drifted too much +for travelling with comfort; we therefore stayed and dined with Mr. +Bethune who promised to render every assistance in getting pemmican +conveyed to us from the Saskatchewan to be in readiness for our canoes +when they might arrive in the spring; Mr. Clark also engaged to procure +six bags for us and to furnish our canoes with any other supplies which +might be wanted and could be spared from his post, and to contribute +his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the Athabasca if our canoes could +not carry it all. + +I feel greatly indebted to this gentleman for much valuable information +respecting the country and the Indians residing to the north of Slave +Lake and for furnishing me with a list of stores he supposed we should +require. He had resided some years on Mackenzie’s River and had been +once so far towards its mouth as to meet the Esquimaux in great +numbers. But they assumed such a hostile attitude that he deemed it +unadvisable to attempt opening any communication with them and +retreated as speedily as he could. + +The observations we obtained here showed that the chronometers had +varied their rates a little in consequence of the jolting of the +carioles, but their errors and rates were ascertained previous to our +departure. We observed the position of this fort to be latitude 55° 25′ +35″ North, longitude 107° 51′ 00″ West, by lunars reduced back from +Fort Chipewyan, variation 22° 15′ 48″ West, dip 84° 13′ 35″. + +March 5. + +We recommenced our journey this morning, having been supplied with the +means of conveyance by both the Companies in equal proportions. Mr. +Clark accompanied us with the intention of going as far as the boundary +of his district. This gentleman was an experienced winter traveller and +we derived much benefit from his suggestions; he caused the men to +arrange the encampment with more attention to comfort and shelter than +our former companions had done. After marching eighteen miles we put up +on Gravel Point in the Deep River. + +At nine the next morning we came to the commencement of Clear Lake. We +crossed its southern extremes and then went over a point of land to +Buffalo Lake and encamped after travelling twenty-six miles. After +supper we were entertained till midnight with paddling songs by our +Canadians who required very little stimulus beyond their natural +vivacity to afford us this diversion. The next morning we arrived at +the establishments which are situated on the western side of the lake +near a small stream called the Beaver River. They were small log +buildings hastily erected last October for the convenience of the +Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr. MacMurray, a partner in the +North-West Company, having sent to Isle à la Crosse an invitation to +Mr. Back and I, our carioles were driven to his post and we experienced +the kindest reception. These posts are frequented by only a few +Indians, Crees, and Chipewyans. The country round is not sufficiently +stocked with animals to afford support to many families and the traders +subsist almost entirely on fish caught in the autumn prior to the lake +being frozen but, the water being shallow, they remove to a deeper part +as soon as the lake is covered with ice. The Aurora Borealis was +brilliantly displayed on both the nights we remained here, but +particularly on the 7th when its appearances were most diversified and +the motion extremely rapid. Its coruscations occasionally concealed +from sight stars of the first magnitude in passing over them, at other +times these were faintly discerned through them; once I perceived a +stream of light to illumine the under surface of some clouds as it +passed along. There was no perceptible noise. + +Mr. MacMurray gave a dance to his voyagers and the women; this is a +treat which they expect on the arrival of any stranger at the post. + +We were presented by this gentleman with the valuable skin of a black +fox which he had entrapped some days before our arrival; it was +forwarded to England with other specimens. + +Our observations place the North-West Company’s House in latitude 55° +53′ 00″ North, longitude 108° 51′ 10″ West, variation 22° 33′ 22″ East. + +The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate height and well wooded but +immediately beyond the bank the country is very swampy and intersected +with water in every direction. At some distance from the western side +there is a conspicuous hill which we hailed with much pleasure as being +the first interruption to the tediously uniform scene we had for some +time passed through. + +On the 10th we recommenced our journey after breakfast and travelled +quickly as we had the advantage of a well-beaten track. At the end of +eighteen miles we entered upon the river Loche which has a serpentine +course and is confined between alluvial banks that support stunted +willows and a few pines; we encamped about three miles farther on and +in the course of the next day’s march perceived several holes on the +ice and many unsafe places for the sledges. Our companions said the ice +of this river is always in the same insecure state, even during the +most severe winter, which they attributed to warm springs. Quitting the +river we crossed a portage and came upon the Methye Lake and soon +afterwards arrived at the trading posts on its western side. These were +perfect huts which had been hastily built after the commencement of the +last winter. We here saw two hunters who were Chipewyan half-breeds and +made many inquiries of them respecting the countries we expected to +visit, but we found them quite ignorant of every part beyond the +Athabasca Lake. They spoke of Mr. Hearne and of his companion +Matonnabee, but did not add to our stock of information respecting that +journey. It had happened before their birth but they remembered the +expedition of Sir Alexander Mackenzie towards the sea. + +This is a picturesque lake about ten miles long and six broad and +receives its name from a species of fish caught in it but not much +esteemed; the residents never eat any part but the liver except through +necessity, the dogs dislike even that. The tittameg and trout are also +caught in the fall of the year. The position of the houses by our +observations is latitude 56° 24′ 20″ North, longitude 109° 23′ 06″ +West, variation 22° 50′ 28″ East. + +On the 13th we renewed our journey and parted from Mr. Clark to whom we +were much obliged for his hospitality and kindness. We soon reached the +Methye Portage and had a very pleasant ride across it in our carioles. +The track was good and led through groups of pines, so happily placed +that it would not have required a great stretch of imagination to fancy +ourselves in a well-arranged park. We had now to cross a small lake and +then gradually ascended hills beyond it until we arrived at the summit +of a lofty chain of mountains commanding the most picturesque and +romantic prospect we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of high +hills run parallel to each other for several miles until the faint blue +haze hides their particular characters, when they slightly change their +course and are lost to the view. The space between them is occupied by +nearly a level plain through which a river pursues a meandering course +and receives supplies from the creeks and rills issuing from the +mountains on each side. The prospect was delightful even amid the snow +and though marked with all the cheerless characters of winter; how much +more charming must it be when the trees are in leaf and the ground is +arrayed in summer verdure! Some faint idea of the difference was +conveyed to my mind by witnessing the effect of the departing rays of a +brilliant sun. The distant prospect however is surpassed in grandeur by +the wild scenery which appeared immediately below our feet. There the +eye penetrates into vast ravines two or three hundred feet in depth +that are clothed with trees and lie on either side of the narrow +pathway descending to the river over eight successive ridges of hills. +At one spot termed the Cockscomb the traveller stands insulated as it +were on a small slip where a false step might precipitate him into the +glen. From this place Mr. Back took an interesting and accurate sketch +to allow time for which we encamped early, having come twenty-one +miles. + +The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in extent and over this space +the canoes and all their cargoes are carried, both in going to and from +the Athabasca department. It is part of the range of mountains which +separates the waters flowing south from those flowing north. According +to Sir Alexander Mackenzie “this range of hills continues in a +South-West direction until its local height is lost between the +Saskatchewan and Elk Rivers, close on the banks of the former in +latitude 53° 36′ North, longitude 113° 45′ West, when it appears to +take its course due north.” Observations taken in the spring by Mr. +Hood place the north side of the portage in latitude 56° 41′ 40″ North, +longitude 109° 52′ 15″ West, variation 25° 2′ 30″ East, dip 85° 7′ 27″. + +At daylight on the 14th we began to descend the range of hills leading +towards the river, and no small care was required to prevent the +sledges from being broken in going down these almost perpendicular +heights, or being precipitated into the glens on each side. As a +precautionary measure the dogs were taken off and the sledges guided by +the men, notwithstanding which they descended with amazing rapidity and +the men were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes in endeavouring +to stop them. When we had arrived at the bottom I could not but feel +astonished at the laborious task which the voyagers have twice in the +year to encounter at this place in conveying their stores backwards and +forwards. We went across the Clear Water River which runs at the bases +of these hills, and followed an Indian track along its northern bank, +by which we avoided the White Mud and Good Portages. We afterwards +followed the river as far as the Pine Portage, when we passed through a +very romantic defile of rocks which presented the appearance of Gothic +ruins, and their rude characters were happily contrasted with the +softness of the snow and the darker foliage of the pines which crowned +their summits. We next crossed the Cascade Portage which is the last on +the way to the Athabasca Lake, and soon afterwards came to some Indian +tents containing five families belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We +smoked the calumet in the chief’s tent, whose name was the Thumb, and +distributed some tobacco and a weak mixture of spirits and water among +the men. They received this civility with much less grace than the +Crees, and seemed to consider it a matter of course. There was an utter +neglect of cleanliness and a total want of comfort in their tents; and +the poor creatures were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied +us from the Methye Lake, accounted for their being in this forlorn +condition by explaining that this band of Indians had recently +destroyed everything they possessed as a token of their great grief for +the loss of their relatives in the prevailing sickness. It appears that +no article is spared by these unhappy men when a near relative dies; +their clothes and tents are cut to pieces, their guns broken, and every +other weapon rendered useless if some person do not remove these +articles from their sight, which is seldom done. Mr. Back sketched one +of the children which delighted the father very much, who charged the +boy to be very good since his picture had been drawn by a great chief. +We learned that they prize pictures very highly and esteem any they can +get, however badly executed, as efficient charms. They were unable to +give us any information respecting the country beyond the Athabasca +Lake which is the boundary of their peregrinations to the northward. +Having been apprised of our coming they had prepared an encampment for +us; but we had witnessed too many proofs of their importunity to expect +that we could pass the night near them in any comfort whilst either +spirits, tobacco or sugar remained in our possession; and therefore +preferred to go about two miles farther along the river and to encamp +among a cluster of fine pine-trees after a journey of sixteen miles. + +On the morning of the 15th, in proceeding along the river, we perceived +a strong smell of sulphur, and on the north shore found a quantity of +it scattered, which seemed to have been deposited by some spring in the +neighbourhood: it appeared very pure and good. We continued our course +the whole day along the river, which is about four hundred yards wide, +has some islands, and is confined between low land extending from the +bases of the mountains on each side. We put up at the end of thirteen +miles and were then joined by a Chipewyan who came, as we supposed, to +serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet but, as none of the party could +communicate with our new friend otherwise than by signs, we waited +patiently until the morning to see what he intended to do. The wind +blew a gale during the night and the snow fell heavily. The next day +our guide led us to the Pembina River which comes from the southward +where we found traces of Indians who appeared to have quitted this +station the day before; we had therefore the benefit of a good track +which our dogs much required as they were greatly fatigued, having +dragged their loads through very deep snow for the last two days. A +moose-deer crossed the river just before the party: this animal is +plentiful in the vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant well-sheltered +place, having travelled fourteen miles. + +A short distance on the following morning brought us to some Indian +lodges which belonged to an old Chipewyan chief named the Sun and his +family consisting of five hunters, their wives and children. They were +delighted to see us and, when the object of our expedition had been +explained to them, expressed themselves much interested in our +progress; but they could not give a particle of information respecting +the countries beyond the Athabasca Lake. We smoked with them and gave +each person a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. A Canadian +servant of the North-West Company who was residing with them informed +us that this family had lost numerous relatives, and that the +destruction of property which had been made after their deaths was the +only cause for the pitiable condition in which we saw them as the whole +family were industrious hunters and therefore were usually better +provided with clothes and other useful articles than most of the +Indians. We purchased from them a pair of snowshoes in exchange for +some ammunition. The Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good and +easy to walk in; we saw some here upwards of six feet long and three +broad. With these unwieldy clogs an active hunter, in the spring when +there is a crust on the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or +red-deer. + +We made very slow progress after leaving this party on account of the +deep snow, but continued along the river until we reached its junction +with the Athabasca or Elk River. We obtained observations on an island +a little below the Forks which gave longitude 111° 8′ 42″ West, +variation 24° 18′ 20″ East. Very little wood was seen during this day’s +march. The western shore near the Forks is destitute of trees; it is +composed of lofty perpendicular cliffs which were now covered with +snow. The eastern shore supports a few pines. + +March 18. + +Soon after our departure from the encampment we met two men from the +establishment at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct information of +its situation and distance. Having the benefit of their track we +marched at a tolerably quick pace and made twenty-two miles in the +course of the day though the weather was very disagreeable for +travelling, being stormy with constant snow. We kept along the river +the whole time: its breadth is about two miles. The islands appear +better furnished with wood than its banks, the summits of which are +almost bare. Soon after we had encamped our Indian guide rejoined us; +he had remained behind the day before without consulting us to +accompany a friend on a hunting excursion. On his return he made no +endeavour to explain the reason of his absence but sat down coolly and +began to prepare his supper. This behaviour made us sensible that +little dependence is to be placed on the continuance of an Indian guide +when his inclination leads him away. + +Early the next morning we sent forward the Indian and a Canadian to +apprise the gentleman in charge of Pierre au Calumet of our approach; +and after breakfast the rest of the party proceeded along the river for +that station which we reached in the afternoon. The senior partner of +the North-West Company in the Athabasca department, Mr. John Stuart, +was in charge of the post. Though he was quite ignorant until this +morning of our being in the country we found him prepared to receive us +with great kindness and ready to afford every information and +assistance agreeably to the desire conveyed in Mr. Simon McGillivray’s +circular letter. This gentleman had twice traversed this continent and +reached the Pacific by the Columbia River; he was therefore fully +conversant with the different modes of travelling and with the +obstacles that may be expected in passing through unfrequented +countries. His suggestions and advice were consequently very valuable +to us but, not having been to the northward of the Great Slave Lake, he +had no knowledge of that line of country except what he had gained from +the reports of Indians. He was of opinion however that positive +information on which our course of proceedings might safely be +determined could be procured from the Indians that frequent the north +side of the lake when they came to the forts in the spring. He +recommended my writing to the partner in charge of that department, +requesting him to collect all the intelligence he could and to provide +guides and hunters from the tribe best acquainted with the country +through which we proposed to travel. + +To our great regret Mr. Stuart expressed much doubt as to our +prevailing upon any experienced Canadian voyagers to accompany us to +the sea in consequence of their dread of the Esquimaux who, he informed +us, had already destroyed the crew of one canoe which had been sent +under Mr. Livingstone to open a trading communication with those who +reside near the mouth of the Mackenzie River; and he also mentioned +that the same tribe had driven away the canoes under Mr. Clark’s +direction, going to them on a similar object, to which circumstance I +have alluded in my remarks at Isle à la Crosse. + +This was unpleasant information but we were comforted by Mr. Stuart’s +assurance that himself and his partners would use every endeavour to +remove their fears as well as to promote our views in every other way; +and he undertook as a necessary part of our equipment in the spring to +prepare the bark and other materials for constructing two canoes at +this post. + +Mr. Stuart informed us that the residents at Fort Chipewyan, from the +recent sickness of their Indian hunters, had been reduced to subsist +entirely on the produce of their fishing-nets, which did not yield more +than a bare sufficiency for their support; and he kindly proposed to us +to remain with him until the spring but, as we were most desirous to +gain all the information we could as early as possible and Mr. Stuart +assured us that the addition of three persons would not be materially +felt in their large family at Chipewyan, we determined on proceeding +thither and fixed on the 22nd for our departure. + +Pierre au Calumet receives its name from the place where the stone is +procured, of which many of the pipes used by the Canadians and Indians +are made. It is a clayey limestone, impregnated with various shells. +The house, which is built on the summit of a steep bank rising almost +perpendicular to the height of one hundred and eighty feet, commands an +extensive prospect along this fine river and over the plains which +stretch out several miles at the back of it, bounded by hills of +considerable height and apparently better furnished with wood than the +neighbourhood of the fort where the trees grow very scantily. There had +been an establishment belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company on the +opposite bank of the river but it was abandoned in December last, the +residents not being able to procure provision from their hunters having +been disabled by the epidemic sickness which has carried off one-third +of the Indians in these parts. They belong to the Northern Crees, a +name given them from their residing in the Athabasca department. There +are now but few families of these men who formerly by their numbers and +predatory habits spread terror among the natives of this part of the +country. + +There are springs of bituminous matter on several of the islands near +these houses; and the stones on the riverbank are much impregnated with +this useful substance. There is also another place remarkable for the +production of a sulphureous salt which is deposited on the surface of a +round-backed hill about half a mile from the beach and on the marshy +ground underneath it. We visited these places at a subsequent period of +the journey and descriptions of them will appear in Dr. Richardson’s +Mineralogical Notices. + +The latitude of the North-West Company’s House is 57° 24′ 06″ North, +but this was the only observation we could obtain, the atmosphere being +cloudy. Mr. Stuart had an excellent thermometer which indicated the +lowest state of temperature to be 43° below zero. He told me 45° was +the lowest temperature he had ever witnessed at the Athabasca or Great +Slave Lake after many years’ residence. On the 21st it rose above zero +and at noon attained the height of 43°; the atmosphere was sultry, snow +fell constantly, and there was quite an appearance of a change in the +season. On the 22nd we parted from our hospitable friend and +recommenced our journey, but under the expectation of seeing him again +in May, at which time the partners of the Company usually assemble at +Fort Chipewyan where we hoped the necessary arrangements for our future +proceedings would be completed. We encamped at sunset at the end of +fourteen miles, having walked the whole way along the river which +preserves nearly a true north course and is from four hundred to six +hundred yards broad. The banks are high and well clothed with the +liard, spruce, fir, alder, birch-tree and willows. Having come nineteen +miles and a half on the 23rd we encamped among pines of a great height +and girth. + +Showers of snow fell until noon on the following day but we continued +our journey along the river whose banks and islands became gradually +lower as we advanced and less abundantly supplied with wood except +willows. We passed an old Canadian who was resting his wearied dogs +during the heat of the sun. He was carrying meat from some Indian +lodges to Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding two hundred and +fifty pounds on his sledge which was dragged by two miserable dogs. He +came up to our encampment after dark. We were much amused by the +altercation that took place between him and our Canadian companions as +to the qualifications of their respective dogs. This however is such a +general topic of conversation among the voyagers in the encampment that +we should not probably have remarked it had not the old man frequently +offered to bet the whole of his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean +as they were, would drag their load to the Athabasca Lake in less time +than any three of theirs. Having expressed our surprise at his apparent +temerity he coolly said the men from the lower countries did not +understand the management of their dogs and that he depended on his +superior skill in driving, and we soon gathered from his remarks that +the voyagers of the Athabasca department consider themselves very +superior to any other. The only reasons which he could assign were that +they had borne their burdens across the terrible Methye Portage and +that they were accustomed to live harder and more precariously. + +March 25. + +Having now the guidance of the old Canadian we sent forward the Indian +and one of our men with letters to the gentleman at the Athabasca Lake. +The rest of the party set off afterwards and kept along the river until +ten when we branched off by portages into the Embarras River, the usual +channel of communication in canoes with the lake. It is a narrow and +serpentine stream confined between alluvial banks which support pines, +poplars and willows. We had not advanced far before we overtook the two +men despatched by us this morning. The stormy weather had compelled +them to encamp as there was too much drifting of the snow for any +attempt to cross the lake. We were obliged, though most reluctantly, to +follow their example but comforted ourselves with the reflection that +this was the first time we had been stopped by the weather during our +long journey which was so near at an end. The gale afterwards +increased, the squalls at night became very violent, disburdened the +trees of the snow and gave us the benefit of a continual fall of +patches from them, in addition to the constant shower. We therefore +quickly finished our suppers and retired under the shelter of our +blankets. + +ARRIVAL AT FORT CHIPEWYAN. + + +March 26. + +The boisterous weather continued through the night and it was not +before six this morning that the wind became apparently moderate and +the snow ceased. Two of the Canadians were immediately sent off with +letters to the gentlemen at Fort Chipewyan. After breakfast we also +started but our Indian friend, having a great indisposition to move in +such weather, remained by the fire. We soon quitted the river and, +after crossing a portage, a small lake and a point of land, came to the +borders of the Mammawee Lake. We then found our error as to the +strength of the wind, and that the gale still blew violently and there +was so much drifting of the snow as to cover the distant objects by +which our course could be directed. We fortunately got a glimpse +through this cloud of a cluster of islands in the direction of the +houses, and decided on walking towards them; but in doing this we +suffered very much from the cold and were obliged to halt under the +shelter of them and await the arrival of our Indian guide. He conducted +us between these islands, over a small lake, and by a swampy river into +the Athabasca Lake, from whence the establishments were visible. At +four P.M. we had the pleasure of arriving at Fort Chipewyan and of +being received by Messrs. Keith and Black, the partners of the +North-West Company in charge, in the most kind and hospitable manner. +Thus terminated a winter’s journey of eight hundred and fifty-seven +miles, in the progress of which there was a great intermixture of +agreeable and disagreeable circumstances. Could the amount of each be +balanced I suspect the latter would much preponderate; and amongst +these the initiation into walking in snowshoes must be considered as +prominent. The suffering it occasions can be but faintly imagined by a +person who thinks upon the inconvenience of marching with a weight of +between two and three pounds constantly attached to galled feet and +swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable the novice +to surmount this pain. + +The next evil is the being constantly exposed to witness the wanton and +unnecessary cruelty of the men to their dogs, especially those of the +Canadians who beat them unmercifully and habitually vent on them the +most dreadful and disgusting imprecations. There are other +inconveniences which, though keenly felt during the day’s journey, are +speedily forgotten when stretched out in the encampment before a large +fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your companions who usually pass +the evening in recounting their former feats in travelling. At this +time the Canadians are always cheerful and merry and the only bar to +their comfort arises from the frequent interruption occasioned by the +dogs who are constantly prowling about the circle and snatching at +every kind of food that happens to be within their reach. These useful +animals are a comfort to them afterwards by the warmth they impart when +lying down by their side or feet as they usually do. But the greatest +gratifications a traveller in these regions enjoys are derived from the +hospitable welcome he receives at every trading post, however poor the +means of the host may be; and from being disrobed even for a short time +of the trappings of a voyager and experiencing the pleasures of +cleanness. + +The following are the estimated distances in statute miles which Mr. +Back and I had travelled since our departure from Cumberland: + +From Cumberland House to Carlton House: 263. +From Carlton House to Isle à la Crosse: 230. +From Isle à la Crosse to north side of the Methye Portage: 124. +From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan: 240. +Total: 857 miles. + + + + +CHAPTER 5. + +TRANSACTIONS AT FORT CHIPEWYAN. ARRIVAL OF DR. RICHARDSON AND MR. HOOD. +PREPARATIONS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE NORTHWARD. + + +TRANSACTIONS AT FORT CHIPEWYAN. + + +March 26, 1820. + +On the day after our arrival at Fort Chipewyan we called upon Mr. +MacDonald, the gentleman in charge of the Hudson’s Bay Establishment +called Fort Wedderburne, and delivered to him Governor Williams’ +circular letter which desired that every assistance should be given to +further our progress, and a statement of the requisitions which we +should have to make on his post. + +Our first object was to obtain some certain information respecting our +future route and accordingly we received from one of the North-West +Company’s interpreters, named Beaulieu, a half-breed who had been +brought up amongst the Dog-ribbed and Copper Indians, some satisfactory +information which we afterwards found tolerably correct respecting the +mode of reaching the Copper-Mine River which he had descended a +considerable way, as well as of the course of that river to its mouth. +The Copper Indians however he said would be able to give us more +accurate information as to the latter part of its course as they +occasionally pursue it to the sea. He sketched on the floor a +representation of the river and a line of coast according to his idea +of it. Just as he had finished an old Chipewyan Indian named Black Meat +unexpectedly came in and instantly recognised the plan. He then took +the charcoal from Beaulieu and inserted a track along the sea-coast +which he had followed in returning from a war excursion made by his +tribe against the Esquimaux. He detailed several particulars of the +coast and the sea which he represented as studded with well-wooded +islands and free from ice close to the shore in the month of July, but +not to a great distance. He described two other rivers to the eastward +of the Copper-Mine River which also fall into the Northern Ocean, the +Anatessy, which issues from the Contwayto or Rum Lake, and the +Thloueeatessy or Fish River, which rises near the eastern boundary of +the Great Slave Lake; but he represented both of them as being shallow +and too much interrupted by barriers for being navigated in any other +than small Indian canoes. + +Having received this satisfactory intelligence I wrote immediately to +Mr. Smith of the North-West Company and Mr. McVicar of the Hudson’s Bay +Company, the gentlemen in charge of the posts at the Great Slave Lake, +to communicate the object of the Expedition and our proposed route, and +to solicit any information they possessed or could collect from the +Indians relative to the countries we had to pass through and the best +manner of proceeding. As the Copper Indians frequent the establishment +on the north side of the lake I particularly requested them to explain +to that tribe the object of our visit and to endeavour to procure from +them some guides and hunters to accompany our party. Two Canadians were +sent by Mr. Keith with these letters. + +The month of April commenced with fine and clear but extremely cold +weather; unfortunately we were still without a thermometer and could +not ascertain the degrees of temperature. The coruscations of the +Aurora Borealis were very brilliant almost every evening of the first +week and were generally of the most variable kind. On the 3rd they were +particularly changeable. The first appearance exhibited three +illuminated beams issuing from the horizon in the north, east, and west +points, and directed towards the zenith; in a few seconds these +disappeared and a complete circle was displayed, bounding the horizon +at an elevation of fifteen degrees. There was a quick lateral motion in +the attenuated beams of which this zone was composed. Its colour was a +pale yellow with an occasional tinge of red. + +On the 8th of April the Indians saw some geese in the vicinity of this +lake but none of the migratory birds appeared near the houses before +the 15th when some swans flew over. These are generally the first that +arrive; the weather had been very stormy for the four preceding days +and this in all probability kept the birds from venturing farther north +than where the Indians had first seen them. + +In the middle of the month the snow began to waste daily and by degrees +it disappeared from the hills and the surface of the lake. On the 17th +and 19th the Aurora Borealis appeared very brilliant in patches of +light bearing North-West. An old Cree Indian having found a +beaver-lodge near to the fort, Mr. Keith, Back, and I accompanied him +to see the method of breaking into it and their mode of taking those +interesting animals. The lodge was constructed on the side of a rock in +a small lake having the entrance into it beneath the ice. The frames +were formed of layers of sticks, the interstices being filled with mud, +and the outside was plastered with earth and stones which the frost had +so completely consolidated that to break through required great labour +with the aid of the ice chisel and the other iron instruments which the +beaver hunters use. The chase however was unsuccessful as the beaver +had previously vacated the lodge. + +On the 21st we observed the first geese that flew near the fort and +some were brought to the house on the 30th but they were very lean. On +the 25th flies were seen sporting in the sun and on the 26th the +Athabasca River, having broken up, overflowed the lake along its +channel; but except where this water spread there was no appearance of +decay in the ice. + +May. + +During the first part of this month the wind blew from the North-West +and the sky was cloudy. It generally thawed during the day but froze at +night. On the 2nd the Aurora Borealis faintly gleamed through very +dense clouds. + +We had a long conversation with Mr. Dease of the North-West Company who +had recently arrived from his station at the bottom of the Athabasca +Lake. This gentleman, having passed several winters on the Mackenzie’s +River and at the posts to the northward of Slave Lake, possessed +considerable information respecting the Indians and those parts of the +country to which our inquiries were directed, which he very promptly +and kindly communicated. During our conversation an old Chipewyan +Indian named the Rabbit’s Head entered the room, to whom Mr. Dease +referred for information on some point. We found from his answer that +he was a stepson of the late chief Matonnabee who had accompanied Mr. +Hearne on his journey to the sea, and that he had himself been of the +party but, being then a mere boy, he had forgotten many of the +circumstances. He confirmed however the leading incidents related by +Hearne and was positive he reached the sea, though he admitted that +none of the party had tasted the water. He represented himself to be +the only survivor of that party. As he was esteemed a good Indian I +presented him with a medal which he received gratefully and concluded a +long speech upon the occasion by assuring me he should preserve it +carefully all his life. The old man afterwards became more +communicative and unsolicited began to relate the tradition of his +tribe respecting the discovery of the Copper-Mine, which we thought +amusing: and as the subject is somewhat connected with our future +researches I will insert the translation of it which was given at the +time by Mr. Dease, though a slight mention of it has been made by +Hearne. + +The Chipewyans suppose the Esquimaux originally inhabited some land to +the northward which is separated by the sea from this country; and that +in the earliest ages of the world a party of these men came over and +stole a woman from their tribe whom they carried to this distant +country and kept in a state of slavery. She was very unhappy in her +situation and effected her escape after many years residence among +them. The forlorn creature wandered about for some days in a state of +uncertainty what direction to take, when she chanced to fall upon a +beaten path which she followed and was led to the sea. At the sight of +the ocean her hope of being able to return to her native country +vanished and she sat herself down in despair and wept. A wolf now +advanced to caress her and, having licked the tears from her eyes, +walked into the water, and she perceived with joy that it did not reach +up to the body of the animal; emboldened by this appearance she +instantly arose, provided two sticks to support herself, and determined +on following the wolf. The first and second nights she proceeded on +without finding any increase in the depth of the water and, when +fatigued, rested herself on the sticks whose upper ends she fastened +together for the purpose. She was alarmed on the third morning by +arriving at a deeper part, but resolved on going forward at any risk +rather than return; and her daring perseverance was crowned with +success by her attaining her native shore on the fifth day. She +fortunately came to a part where there was a beaten path which she knew +to be the track made by the reindeer in their migrations. Here she +halted and prepared some sort of weapon for killing them; as soon as +this was completed she had the gratification to behold several herds +advancing along the road, and had the happiness of killing a sufficient +number for her winter’s subsistence, which she determined to pass at +that place, and therefore formed a house for herself after the manner +she had learned from the Esquimaux. When spring came and she emerged +from her subterraneous dwelling (for such the Chipewyans suppose it to +have been) she was astonished by observing a glittering appearance on a +distant hill which she knew was not produced by the reflection of the +sun and, being at a loss to assign any other cause for it, she resolved +on going up to the shining object and then found the hill was entirely +composed of copper. She broke off several pieces and, finding it +yielded so readily to her beating, it occurred to her that this metal +would be very serviceable to her countrymen if she should find them +again. While she was meditating on what was to be done the thought +struck her that it would be advisable to attach as many pieces of +copper to her dress as she could and then proceed into the interior in +search of some inhabitants who, she supposed, would give her a +favourable reception on account of the treasure she had brought. + +It happened that she met her own relations and the young men, elated +with the account she had given of the hill, made her instantly return +with them, which she was enabled to do, having taken the precaution of +putting up marks to indicate the path. The party reached the spot in +safety but the story had a melancholy catastrophe. These youths, +overcome by excess of joy, gave loose to their passions and offered the +grossest insults to their benefactress. She powerfully resisted them +for some time and, when her strength was failing, fled to the point of +the mountain as the only place of security. The moment she had gained +the summit the earth opened and ingulphed both herself and the mountain +to the utter dismay of the men who were not more astonished at its +sudden disappearance than sorrowful for this just punishment of their +wickedness. Ever since this event the copper has only been found in +small detached pieces on the surface of the earth. + +On the 10th of May we were gratified by the appearance of spring though +the ice remained firm on the lake. The anemone (pulsatilla, pasque +flower) appeared this day in flower, the trees began to put forth their +leaves, and the mosquitoes visited the warm rooms. On the 17th and 18th +there were frequent showers of rain and much thunder and lightning. +This moist weather caused the ice to waste so rapidly that by the 24th +it had entirely disappeared from the lake. The gentlemen belonging to +both the Companies quickly arrived from the different posts in this +department, bringing their winter’s collection of furs which are +forwarded from these establishments to the depôts. + +I immediately waited on Mr. Colin Robertson, the agent of the Hudson’s +Bay Company, and communicated to him, as I had done before to the +several partners of the North-West Company, our plan and the +requisitions we should have to make on each Company, and I requested of +all the gentlemen the favour of their advice and suggestions. As I +perceived that the arrangement of their winter accounts and other +business fully occupied them I forbore further pressing the subject of +our concerns for some days until there was an appearance of despatching +the first brigade of canoes. It then became necessary to urge their +attention to them; but it was evident from the determined commercial +opposition and the total want of intercourse between the two Companies +that we could not expect to receive any cordial advice or the assurance +of the aid of both without devising some expedient to bring the parties +together. I therefore caused a tent to be pitched at a distance from +both establishments and solicited the gentlemen of both Companies to +meet Mr. Back and myself there for the purpose of affording us their +combined assistance. + +With this request they immediately complied and on May 25th we were +joined at the tent by Mr. Stuart and Mr. Grant of the North-West +Company and Mr. Colin Robertson of the Hudson’s Bay Company, all of +whom kindly gave very satisfactory answers to a series of questions +which we had drawn up for the occasion and promised all the aid in +their power. + +PREPARATIONS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE NORTHWARD. + + +Furnished with the information thus obtained we proceeded to make some +arrangements respecting the obtaining of men and the stores we should +require for their equipment as well as for presents to the Indians; and +on the following day a requisition was made on the Companies for eight +men each and whatever useful stores they could supply. We learned with +regret that, in consequence of the recent lavish expenditure of their +goods in support of the opposition, their supply to us would of +necessity be very limited. The men too were backward in offering their +services, especially those of the Hudson’s Bay Company who demanded a +much higher rate of wages than I considered it proper to grant. + +June 3. + +Mr. Smith, a partner of the North-West Company, arrived from the Great +Slave Lake bearing the welcome news that the principal chief of the +Copper Indians had received the communication of our arrival with joy +and given all the intelligence he possessed respecting the route to the +sea-coast by the Copper-Mine River; and that he and a party of his men, +at the instance of Mr. Wentzel, a clerk of the North-West Company whom +they wished might go along with them, had engaged to accompany the +Expedition as guides and hunters. They were to wait our arrival at Fort +Providence on the north side of the Slave Lake. Their information +coincided with that given by Beaulieu. They had no doubt of our being +able to obtain the means of subsistence in travelling to the coast. +This agreeable intelligence had a happy effect upon the Canadian +voyagers, many of their fears being removed: several of them seemed now +disposed to volunteer; and indeed on the same evening two men from the +North-West Company offered themselves and were accepted. + +June 5. + +This day Mr. Back and I went over to Fort Wedderburne to see Mr. +Robertson respecting his quota of men. We learned from him that, +notwithstanding his endeavours to persuade them, his most experienced +voyagers still declined engaging without very exorbitant wages. After +some hesitation however six men engaged with us who were represented to +be active and steady; and I also got Mr. Robertson’s permission for St. +Germain, an interpreter belonging to this Company, to accompany us from +Slave Lake if he should choose. The bowmen and steersmen were to +receive one thousand six hundred livres Halifax per annum, and the +middle men one thousand two hundred, exclusive of their necessary +equipments; and they stipulated that their wages should be continued +until their arrival in Montreal or their rejoining the service of their +present employers. + +I delivered to Mr. Robertson an official request that the stores we had +left at York Factory and the Rock Depôt with some other supplies might +be forwarded to Slave Lake by the first brigade of canoes which should +come in. He also took charge of my letters addressed to the Admiralty. +Five men were afterwards engaged from the North-West Company for the +same wages and under the same stipulations as the others, besides an +interpreter for the Copper Indians; but this man required three +thousand livres Halifax currency which we were obliged to give him as +his services were indispensable. + +The extreme scarcity of provision at the posts rendered it necessary to +despatch all our men to the Mammawee Lake where they might procure +their own subsistence by fishing. The women and children resident at +the fort were also sent away for the same purpose; and no other +families were permitted to remain at the houses after the departure of +the canoes than those belonging to the men who were required to carry +on the daily duty. + +The large party of officers and men which had assembled here from the +different posts in the department was again quickly dispersed. The +first brigade of canoes laden with furs was despatched to the depôt on +May 30th and the others followed in two or three days afterwards. Mr. +Stuart, the senior partner of the North-West Company, quitted us for +the same destination on June 4th; Mr. Robertson for his depôt on the +next day; and on the 9th we parted with our friend Mr. Keith, to whose +unremitting kindness we felt much indebted. I entrusted to his care a +box containing some drawings by Mr. Back, the map of our route from +Cumberland House, and the skin of a black beaver (presented to the +Expedition by Mr. Smith) with my official letters addressed to the +Under-Secretary of State. I wrote by each of these gentlemen to inform +Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood of the scarcity of stores at these posts +and to request them to procure all they possibly could on their route. +Mr. Smith was left in charge of this post during the summer; this +gentleman soon evinced his desire to further our progress by directing +a new canoe to be built for our use which was commenced immediately. + +June 21. + +This day an opportunity offered of sending letters to the Great Slave +Lake and I profited by it to request Mr. Wentzel would accompany the +Expedition agreeably to the desire of the Copper Indians, communicating +to him that I had received permission for him to do so from the +partners of the North-West Company. Should he be disposed to comply +with my invitation I desired that he would go over to Fort Providence +and remain near the Indians whom he had engaged for our service. I +feared lest they should become impatient at our unexpected delay and, +with the usual fickleness of the Indian character, remove from the +establishment before we could arrive. It had been my intention to go to +them myself, could the articles with which they expected to be +presented on my arrival have been provided at these establishments; but +as they could not be procured I was compelled to defer my visit until +our canoes should arrive. Mr. Smith supposed that my appearance amongst +them without the means of satisfying any of their desires would give +them an unfavourable impression respecting the Expedition which would +make them indifferent to exertion if it did not even cause them to +withdraw from their engagements. + +The establishments at this place, Forts Chipewyan and Wedderburne, the +chief posts of the Companies in this department, are conveniently +situated for communicating with the Slave and Peace Rivers from whence +the canoes assemble in the spring and autumn; on the first occasion +they bring the collection of furs which has been made at the different +outposts during the winter; and at the latter season they receive a +supply of stores for the equipment of the Indians in their vicinity. +Fort Wedderburne is a small house which was constructed on Coal Island +about five years ago when the Hudson’s Bay Company recommenced trading +in this part of the country. Fort Chipewyan has been built many years +and is an establishment of very considerable extent, conspicuously +situated on a rocky point of the northern shore; it has a tower which +can be seen at a considerable distance. This addition was made about +eight years ago to watch the motions of the Indians who intended, as it +was then reported, to destroy the house and all its inhabitants. They +had been instigated to this rash design by the delusive stories of one +among them who had acquired great influence over his companions by his +supposed skill in necromancy. This fellow had prophesied that there +would soon be a complete change in the face of their country, that +fertility and plenty would succeed to the present sterility, and that +the present race of white inhabitants, unless they became subservient +to the Indians, would be removed and their place be filled by other +traders who would supply their wants in every possible manner. The poor +deluded wretches, imagining they would hasten this happy change by +destroying their present traders, of whose submission there was no +prospect, threatened to extirpate them. None of these menaces however +were put in execution. They were probably deterred from the attempt by +perceiving that a most vigilant guard was kept against them. + +The portion of this extensive lake which is near the establishments is +called The Lake of the Hills, not improperly as the northern shore and +the islands are high and rocky. The south side however is quite level, +consisting of alluvial land, subject to be flooded, lying betwixt the +different mouths of the Elk River and much intersected by water. The +rocks of the northern shore are composed of syenite over which the soil +is thinly spread; it is however sufficient to support a variety of firs +and poplars and many shrubs, lichens and mosses. The trees were now in +full foliage, the plants generally in flower, and the whole scene quite +enlivening. There can scarcely be a higher gratification than that +which is enjoyed in this country in witnessing the rapid change which +takes place in the course of a few days in the spring; scarcely does +the snow disappear from the ground before the trees are clothed with +thick foliage, the shrubs open their leaves and put forth their +variegated flowers, and the whole prospect becomes animating. The +spaces between the rocky hills, being for the most part swampy, support +willows and a few poplars. These spots are the favourite resort of the +mosquitoes, which incessantly torment the unfortunate persons who have +to pass through them. + +Some of the hills attain an elevation of five or six hundred feet at +the distance of a mile from the house; and from their summits a very +picturesque view is commanded of the lake and of the surrounding +country. The land above the Great Point at the confluence of the main +stream of the Elk River is six or seven hundred feet high and stretches +in a southern direction behind Pierre au Calumet. Opposite to that +establishment, on the west side of the river, at some distance in the +interior, the Bark Mountain rises and ranges to the North-West until it +reaches Clear Lake, about thirty miles to the southward of these forts, +and then goes to the south-westward. The Cree Indians generally procure +from this range their provision as well as the bark for making their +canoes. There is another range of hills on the south shore which runs +towards the Peace River. + +The residents of these establishments depend for subsistence almost +entirely on the fish which this lake affords; they are usually caught +in sufficient abundance throughout the winter though at the distance of +eighteen miles from the houses; on the thawing of the ice the fish +remove into some smaller lakes and the rivers to the south shore. +Though they are nearer to the forts than in winter it frequently +happens that high winds prevent the canoes from transporting them +thither and the residents are kept in consequence without a supply of +food for two or three days together. The fish caught in the net are the +attihhawmegh, trout, carp, methye, and pike.[15] + + [15] See above. + + +The traders also get supplied by the hunters with buffalo and +moose-deer meat (which animals are found at some distance from the +forts) but the greater part of it is either in a dried state or pounded +ready for making pemmican and is required for the men whom they keep +travelling during the winter to collect the furs from the Indians, and +for the crews of the canoes on their outward passage to the depôts in +spring. There was a great want of provision this season, and both the +Companies had much difficulty to provide a bare sufficiency for their +different brigades of canoes. Mr. Smith assured me that after the +canoes had been despatched he had only five hundred pounds of meat +remaining for the use of the men who might travel from the post during +the summer and that, five years preceding, there had been thirty +thousand pounds in store under similar circumstances. He ascribed this +amazing difference more to the indolent habits which the Indians had +acquired since the commercial struggle commenced than to their recent +sickness, mentioning in confirmation of his opinion that they could +now, by the produce of little exertion, obtain whatever they demanded +from either establishment. + +At the opening of the water in spring the Indians resort to the +establishments to settle their accounts with the traders and to procure +the necessaries they require for the summer. This meeting is generally +a scene of much riot and confusion as the hunters receive such +quantities of spirits as to keep them in a state of intoxication for +several days. This spring however, owing to the great deficiency of +spirits, we had the gratification of seeing them generally sober. They +belong to the great family of the Chipewyan or Northern Indians, +dialects of their language being spoken in the Peace and Mackenzie’s +Rivers and by the populous tribes in New Caledonia, as ascertained by +Sir Alexander Mackenzie in his journey to the Pacific. They style +themselves generally _Dinneh_ men, or Indians, but each tribe or horde +adds some distinctive epithet taken from the name of the river or lake +on which they hunt, or the district from which they last migrated. +Those who come to Fort Chipewyan term themselves Saweessawdinneh +(Indians from the rising sun or Eastern Indians) their original hunting +grounds being between the Athabasca and Great Slave Lakes and Churchill +River. This district, more particularly termed the Chipewyan lands or +_barren country_, is frequented by numerous herds of reindeer which +furnish easy subsistence and clothing to the Indians, but the traders +endeavour to keep them in the parts to the westward where the beavers +resort. There are about one hundred and sixty hunters who carry their +furs to the Great Slave Lake, forty to Hay River, and two hundred and +forty to Fort Chipewyan. A few Northern Indians also resort to the +posts at the bottom of the Lake of the Hills, on Red Deer Lake, and to +Churchill. The distance however of the latter post from their hunting +grounds and the sufferings to which they are exposed in going thither +from want of food have induced those who were formerly accustomed to +visit it to convey their furs to some nearer station. + +These people are so minutely described by Hearne and Mackenzie that +little can be added by a passing stranger whose observations were made +during short interviews and when they were at the forts, where they lay +aside many of their distinguishing characteristics and strive to +imitate the manners of the voyagers and traders. + +The Chipewyans are by no means prepossessing in appearance: they have +broad faces, projecting cheek-bones and wide nostrils; but they have +generally good teeth and fine eyes. When at the fort they imitate the +dress of the Canadians except that instead of trousers they prefer the +Indian stockings, which only reach from the thigh to the ankle, and in +place of the waistband they have a piece of cloth round the middle +which hangs down loosely before and behind. Their hunting dress +consists of a leathern shirt and stockings over which a blanket is +thrown, the head being covered with a fur cap or band. Their manner is +reserved and their habits are selfish; they beg with unceasing +importunity for everything they see. I never saw men who either +received or bestowed a gift with such bad grace; they almost snatch the +thing from you in the one instance and throw it at you in the other. It +could not be expected that such men should display in their tents the +amiable hospitality which prevails generally amongst the Indians of +this country. A stranger may go away hungry from their lodges unless he +possess sufficient impudence to thrust uninvited his knife into the +kettle and help himself. The owner indeed never deigns to take any +notice of such an act of rudeness except by a frown, it being beneath +the dignity of a hunter to make disturbance about a piece of meat. + +As some relief to the darker shades of their character it should be +stated that instances of theft are extremely rare amongst them. They +profess strong affection for their children and some regard for their +relations who are often numerous, as they trace very far the ties of +consanguinity. A curious instance of the former was mentioned to us and +so well authenticated that I shall venture to give it in the words of +Dr. Richardson’s Journal: + +A young Chipewyan had separated from the rest of his band for the +purpose of trenching beaver when his wife, who was his sole companion +and in her first pregnancy, was seized with the pains of labour. She +died on the third day after she had given birth to a boy. The husband +was inconsolable and vowed in his anguish never to take another woman +to wife, but his grief was soon in some degree absorbed in anxiety for +the fate of his infant son. To preserve its life he descended to the +office of nurse, so degrading in the eyes of a Chipewyan as partaking +of the duties of a woman. He swaddled it in soft moss, fed it with +broth made from the flesh of the deer and, to still its cries, applied +it to his breast, praying earnestly to the great Master of Life to +assist his endeavours. The force of the powerful passion by which he +was actuated produced the same effect in his case as it has done in +some others which are recorded: a flow of milk actually took place from +his breast. He succeeded in rearing his child, taught him to be a +hunter and, when he attained the age of manhood, chose him a wife from +the tribe. The old man kept his vow in never taking a second wife +himself but he delighted in tending his son’s children and, when his +daughter-in-law used to interfere, saying that it was not the +occupation of a man, he was wont to reply that he had promised to the +Great Master of Life, if his child were spared, never to be proud like +the other Indians. He used to mention too, as a certain proof of the +approbation of Providence that, although he was always obliged to carry +his child on his back while hunting, yet that it never roused a moose +by its cries, being always particularly still at those times. Our +informant[16] added that he had often seen this Indian in his old age +and that his left breast even then retained the unusual size it had +acquired in his occupation of nurse. + + [16] Mr. Wentzel. + + +We had proof of their sensibility towards their relations in their +declining to pitch their tents where they had been accustomed for many +years, alleging a fear of being reminded of the happy hours they had +formerly spent there in the society of the affectionate relatives whom +the sickness had recently carried off. The change of situation however +had not the effect of relieving them from sorrowful impressions, and +they occasionally indulged in very loud lamentations as they sat in +groups within and without their tents. Unfortunately the spreading of a +severe dysentery amongst them at this time gave occasion for the +renewal of their grief. The medicinal charms of drumming and singing +were plentifully applied and once they had recourse to conjuring over a +sick person. I was informed however that the Northern Indians do not +make this expedient for the cure of a patient so often as the Crees; +but when they do the conjurer is most assiduous and suffers great +personal fatigue. Particular persons only are trained in the mysteries +of the art of conjuring to procure the recovery of the sick or to +disclose future events. + +On extraordinary occasions the man remains in his narrow conjuring +tents for days without eating before he can determine the matter to his +satisfaction. When he is consulted about the sick the patient is shut +up with him; but on other occasions he is alone and the poor creature +often works his mind up to a pitch of illusion that can scarcely be +imagined by one who has not witnessed it. His deluded companions seat +themselves round his tent and await his communication with earnest +anxiety, yet during the progress of his manœuvres they often venture to +question him as to the disposition of the Great Spirit. + +These artful fellows usually gain complete ascendancy over the minds of +their companions. They are supported by voluntary contributions of +provision that their minds may not be diverted by the labour of hunting +from the peculiar duties of their profession. + +The chiefs among the Chipewyans are now totally without power. The +presents of a flag and a gaudy dress still bestowed upon them by the +traders do not procure for them any respect or obedience except from +the youths of their own families. This is to be attributed mainly to +their living at peace with their neighbours and to the facility which +the young men find in getting their wants supplied independent of the +recommendation of the chiefs which was formerly required. In war +excursions boldness and intrepidity would still command respect and +procure authority; but the influence thus acquired would probably cease +with the occasion that called it forth. The traders however endeavour +to support their authority by continuing towards them the accustomed +marks of respect hoisting the flag and firing a salute of musketry on +their entering the fort. + +The chief halts at a distance from the house and despatches one of his +young men to announce his approach and to bring his flag, which is +carried before him when he arrives. The messenger carries back to him +some vermilion to ornament the faces of his party, together with a +looking-glass and comb, some tobacco, and a few rounds of ammunition +that they may return the salute. These men paint round the eyes, the +forehead, and the cheekbones. + +The Northern Indians evince no little vanity by assuming to themselves +the comprehensive title of The People, whilst they designate all other +nations by the name of their particular country. If men were seen at a +distance and a Chipewyan was asked who those persons were he would +answer The People if he recognised them to belong to his tribe and +never Chipewyans; but he would give them their respective names if they +were Europeans, Canadians, or Cree Indians. + +As they suppose their ancestors to come originally from the east those +who happen to be born in the eastern part of their territory are +considered to be of the purest race. I have been informed that all the +Indians who trade at the different posts in the north-west parts of +America imagine that their forefathers came from the east, except the +Dog-Ribs who reside between the Copper Indian Islands and the +Mackenzie’s River and who deduce their origin from the west, which is +the more remarkable as they speak a dialect of the Chipewyan language. +I could gather no information respecting their religious opinions +except that they have a tradition of the deluge. + +The Chipewyans are considered to be less expert hunters than the Crees, +which probably arises from their residing much on the barren lands +where the reindeer are so numerous that little skill is requisite. A +good hunter however is highly esteemed among them. The facility of +procuring goods since the commercial opposition commenced has given +great encouragement to their native indolence of disposition, as is +manifested by the difference in the amount of their collections of furs +and provision between the late and former years. From six to eight +hundred packs of furs used formerly to be sent from this department, +now the return seldom exceeds half that amount. The decrease in the +provision has been already mentioned. + +The Northern Indians suppose that they originally sprang from a dog; +and about five years ago a superstitious fanatic so strongly impressed +upon their minds the impropriety of employing these animals, to which +they were related, for purposes of labour that they universally +resolved against using them any more and, strange as it may seem, +destroyed them. They now have to drag everything themselves on sledges. +This laborious task falls most heavily on the women; nothing can more +shock the feelings of a person accustomed to civilised life than to +witness the state of their degradation. When a party is on a march the +women have to drag the tent, the meat, and whatever the hunter +possesses, whilst he only carries his gun and medicine case. In the +evening they form the encampment, cut wood, fetch water, and prepare +the supper; and then, perhaps, are not permitted to partake of the fare +until the men have finished. A successful hunter sometimes has two or +three wives; whoever happens to be the favourite assumes authority over +the others and has the management of the tent. These men usually treat +their wives unkindly and even with harshness; except indeed when they +are about to increase the family and then they show them much +indulgence. + +Hearne charges the Chipewyans with the dreadful practice of abandoning, +in extremity, their aged and sick people. The only instance that came +under our personal notice was attended with some palliating +circumstances: An old woman arrived at Fort Chipewyan during our +residence with her son, a little boy about ten years old, both of whom +had been deserted by their relations and left in an encampment when +much reduced by sickness: two or three days after their departure the +woman gained a little strength and, with the assistance of the boy, was +enabled to paddle a canoe to the fishing station of this post where +they were supported for some days until they were enabled to proceed in +search of some other relations who they expected would treat them with +more kindness. I learned that the woman bore an extremely bad +character, having even been guilty of infanticide and that her +companions considered her offences merited the desertion. + +This tribe since its present intimate connection with the traders has +discontinued its war excursions against the Esquimaux, but they still +speak of that nation in terms of the most inveterate hatred. We have +only conversed with four men who have been engaged in any of those +expeditions; all these confirm the statements of Black Meat respecting +the sea-coast. Our observations concerning the half-breed population in +this vicinity coincided so exactly with those which have been given of +similar persons in Dr. Richardson’s account of the Crees that any +statement respecting them at this place is unnecessary. Both the +Companies have wisely prohibited their servants from intermarrying with +pure Indian women, which was formerly the cause of many quarrels with +the tribes. + +The weather was extremely variable during the month of June; we +scarcely had two clear days in succession, and the showers of rain were +frequent; the winds were often strong and generally blowing from the +north-east quarter. On the evening of the 16th the Aurora Borealis was +visible but after that date the nights were too light for our +discerning it. + +The mosquitoes swarmed in great numbers about the house and tormented +us so incessantly by their irritating stings that we were compelled to +keep our rooms constantly filled with smoke which is the only means of +driving them away: the weather indeed was now warm. Having received one +of Dollond’s eighteen-inch spirit thermometers from Mr. Stuart, which +he had the kindness to send us from his post at Pierre au Calumet after +he had learned that ours had been rendered useless, I observed the +temperature at noon on the 25th of June to be 63°. + +On the following morning we made an excursion accompanied by Mr. Smith +round the fishing stations on the south side of the lake for the +purpose of visiting our men; we passed several groups of women and +children belonging to both the forts, posted wherever they could find a +sufficiently dry spot for an encampment. At length we came to our men, +pitched upon a narrow strip of land situated between two rivers. Though +the portion of dry ground did not exceed fifty yards yet they appeared +to be living very comfortably, having formed huts with the canoe’s sail +and covering, and were amply supported by the fish their nets daily +furnished. They sometimes had a change in their fare by procuring a few +ducks and other waterfowl which resort in great abundance to the +marshes by which they were surrounded. + +July 2. + +The canoe which was ordered to be built for our use was finished. As it +was constructed after the manner described by Hearne and several of the +American travellers a detail of the process will be unnecessary. Its +extreme length was thirty-two feet six inches, including the bow and +stern pieces, its greatest breadth was four feet ten inches, but it was +only two feet nine inches forward where the bowman sat, and two feet +four inches behind where the steersman was placed, and its depth was +one foot eleven and a quarter inches. There were seventy-three hoops of +thin cedar and a layer of slender laths of the same wood within the +frame. These feeble vessels of bark will carry twenty-five pieces of +goods, each weighing ninety pounds exclusive of the necessary provision +and baggage for the crew of five or six men, amounting in the whole to +about three thousand three hundred pounds’ weight. This great lading +they annually carry between the depôts and the posts in the interior; +and it rarely happens that any accidents occur if they be managed by +experienced bowmen and steersmen, on whose skill the safety of the +canoe entirely depends in the rapids and difficult places. When a total +portage is made these two men carry the canoe, and they often run with +it though its weight is estimated at about three hundred pounds +exclusive of the poles and oars which are occasionally left in where +the distance is short. + +On the 5th we made an excursion for the purpose of trying our canoe. A +heavy gale came on in the evening which caused a great swell in the +lake and in crossing the waves we had the satisfaction to find that our +birchen vessel proved an excellent sea-boat. + +July 7. + +This morning some men and their families, who had been sent off to +search for Indians with whom they intended to pass the summer, returned +to the fort in consequence of a serious accident having befallen their +canoe in the Red Deer River; when they were in the act of hauling up a +strong rapid the line broke, the canoe was overturned, and two of the +party narrowly escaped drowning; fortunately the women and children +happened to be on shore or in all probability they would have perished +in the confusion of the scene. Nearly all their stores, their guns and +fishing nets were lost, and they could not procure any other food for +the last four days than some unripe berries. + +Some gentlemen arrived in the evening with a party of Chipewyan Indians +from Hay River, a post between the Peace River and the Great Slave +Lake. These men gave distressing accounts of sickness among their +relatives and the Indians in general along the Peace River, and they +said many of them have died. The disease was described as dysentery. On +the 10th and 11th we had very sultry weather and were dreadfully +tormented by mosquitoes. The highest temperature was 73°. + +ARRIVAL OF DR. RICHARDSON AND MR. HOOD. + + +July 13. + +This morning Mr. Back and I had the sincere gratification of welcoming +our long-separated friends, Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, who arrived in +perfect health with two canoes, having made a very expeditious journey +from Cumberland notwithstanding they were detained near three days in +consequence of the melancholy loss of one of their bowmen by the +upsetting of a canoe in a strong rapid but, as the occurrences of this +journey together with the mention of some other circumstances that +happened previous to their departure from Cumberland, which have been +extracted from Mr. Hood’s narrative, will appear in the following +chapter, it will be unnecessary to enter further into these points now. + +The zeal and talent displayed by Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood in the +discharge of their several duties since my separation from them drew +forth my highest approbation. These gentlemen had brought all the +stores they could procure from the establishments at Cumberland and +Isle à la Crosse; and at the latter place they had received ten bags of +pemmican from the North-West Company, which proved to be mouldy and so +totally unfit for use that it was left at the Methye Portage. They got +none from the Hudson’s Bay post. The voyagers belonging to that +Company, being destitute of provision, had eaten what was intended for +us. In consequence of these untoward circumstances the canoes arrived +with only one day’s supply of this most essential article. The prospect +of having to commence our journey from hence almost destitute of +provision and scantily supplied with stores was distressing to us and +very discouraging to the men. It was evident however that any +unnecessary delay here would have been very imprudent as Fort Chipewyan +did not at the present time furnish the means of subsistence for so +large a party, much less was there a prospect of our receiving a supply +to carry us forward. We therefore hastened to make the necessary +arrangements for our speedy departure. All the stores were demanded +that could possibly be spared from both the establishments; and we +rejoiced to find that, when this collection was added to the articles +that had been brought up by the canoes, we had a sufficient quantity of +clothing for the equipment of the men who had been engaged here, as +well as to furnish a present to the Indians, besides some few goods for +the winter’s consumption; but we could not procure any ammunition which +was the most essential article, or spirits, and but little tobacco. + +We then made a final arrangement respecting the voyagers who were to +accompany the party; and fortunately there was no difficulty in doing +this as Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had taken the very judicious +precaution of bringing up ten men from Cumberland who were engaged to +proceed forward if their services were required. The Canadians whom +they brought were most desirous of being continued, and we felt sincere +pleasure in being able to keep men who were so zealous in the cause and +who had given proofs of their activity on their recent passage to this +place by discharging those men who were less willing to undertake the +journey; of these three were Englishmen, one American, and three +Canadians. When the numbers were completed which we had been +recommended by the traders to take as a protection against the +Esquimaux we had sixteen Canadian voyagers and our worthy and only +English attendant John Hepburn, besides the two interpreters whom we +were to receive at the Great Slave Lake; we were also accompanied by a +Chipewyan woman. An equipment of goods was given to each of the men who +had been engaged at this place similar to what had been furnished to +the others at Cumberland; and when this distribution had been made the +remainder were made up into bales preparatory to our departure on the +following day. We were cheerfully assisted in these and all our +occupations by Mr. Smith who evinced an anxious desire to supply our +wants as far as his means permitted. + +Mr. Hood having brought up the dipping needle from Cumberland House, we +ascertained the dip to be 85° 23′ 42″, and the difference produced by +reversing the face of the instrument was 6° 2′ 10″. The intensity of +the magnetic force was also observed. Several observations had been +procured on both sides of the moon during our residence at Fort +Chipewyan, the result of which gave for its longitude 111° 18′ 20″ +West, its latitude was observed to be 58° 42′ 38″ North, and the +variation of the compass 22° 49′ 32″ East. Fresh rates were procured +for the chronometers and their errors determined for Greenwich time by +which the survey to the northward was carried on. + + + + +CHAPTER 6. + +MR. HOOD’S JOURNEY TO THE BASQUIAU HILL. SOJOURNS WITH AN INDIAN PARTY. +HIS JOURNEY TO CHIPEWYAN. + + +MR. HOOD’S JOURNEY TO THE BASQUIAU HILL. + + +March, 1820. + +Being desirous of obtaining a drawing of a moose-deer, and also of +making some observation on the height of the Aurora Borealis, I set out +on the 23rd to pass a few days at the Basquiau Hill. Two men +accompanied me with dogs and sledges who were going to the hill for +meat. We found the Saskatchewan open and were obliged to follow it +several miles to the eastward. We did not then cross it without wading +in water which had overflowed the ice, and our snowshoes were +encumbered with a heavy weight for the remainder of the day. On the +south bank of the Saskatchewan were some poplars ten or twelve feet in +circumference at the root. Beyond the river we traversed an extensive +swamp bounded by woods. In the evening we crossed the Swan Lake, about +six miles in breadth and eight in length, and halted on its south side +for the night, twenty-four miles South-South-West of Cumberland House. + +At four in the morning of the 24th we continued the journey and crossed +some creeks in the woods and another large swamp. These swamps are +covered with water in summer to the depth of several feet which arises +from the melted snow from the higher grounds. The tracks of foxes, +wolves, wolverines and martens were very numerous. The people employed +in carrying meat set traps on their way out and take possession of +their captures at their return, for which they receive a sum from the +Company proportioned to the value of the fur. + +In the evening we crossed the Goose Lake which is a little longer than +Swan Lake and afterwards the river Sepanach, a branch of the +Saskatchewan forming an island extending thirty miles above and forty +below Cumberland House. We turned to the westward on the Root River +which enters the Sepanach and halted on its banks, having made in +direct distance not more than twenty miles since the 23rd. + +We passed the Shoal Lake on the 25th and then marched twelve miles +through woods and swamps to a hunting tent of the Indians. It was +situated in a grove of large poplars and would have been no unpleasant +residence if we could have avoided the smoke. A heavy gale from the +westward with snow confined us for several days to this tent. On the +30th two Indians arrived, one of whom, named the Warrior, was well +known at the House. We endeavoured to prevail upon them to set out in +quest of moose which they agreed to do on receiving some rum. Promises +were of no avail; the smallest present gratification is preferred to +the certainty of ample reward at another period; an unfailing +indication of strong animal passions and a weak understanding. On our +compliance with their demand they departed. + +The next day I went to the Warrior’s tent distant about eleven miles. +The country was materially changed: the pine had disappeared and gentle +slopes with clumps of large poplars formed some pleasing groups: +willows were scattered over the swamps. When I entered the tent the +Indians spread a buffalo robe before the fire and desired me to sit +down. Some were eating, others sleeping, many of them without any +covering except the breechcloth and a blanket over the shoulders, a +state in which they love to indulge themselves till hunger drives them +forth to the chase. Besides the Warrior’s family there was that of +another hunter named _Long-legs_ whose bad success in hunting had +reduced him to the necessity of feeding on moose leather for three +weeks when he was compassionately relieved by the Warrior. I was an +unwilling witness of the preparation of my dinner by the Indian women. +They cut into pieces a portion of fat meat, using for that purpose a +knife and their teeth. It was boiled in a kettle and served in a +platter made of birch bark from which, being dirty, they had peeled the +surface. However the flavour of good moose meat will survive any +process that it undergoes in their hands except smoking. + +Having provided myself with some drawing materials I amused the Indians +with a sketch of the interior of the tent and its inhabitants. An old +woman who was relating with great volubility an account of some quarrel +with the traders at Cumberland House broke off from her narration when +she perceived my design, supposing perhaps that I was employing some +charm against her; for the Indians have been taught a supernatural +dread of particular pictures. One of the young men drew with a piece of +charcoal a figure resembling a frog on the side of the tent and, by +significantly pointing at me, excited peals of merriment from his +companions. The caricature was comic, but I soon fixed their attention +by producing my pocket compass and affecting it with a knife. They have +great curiosity which might easily be directed to the attainment of +useful knowledge. As the dirt accumulated about these people was +visibly of a communicative nature I removed at night into the open air +where the thermometer fell to 15° below zero although it was the next +day 60° above it. + +In the morning the Warrior and his companion arrived; I found that, +instead of hunting, they had passed the whole time in a drunken fit at +a short distance from the tent. In reply to our angry questions the +Warrior held out an empty vessel as if to demand the payment of a debt +before he entered into any new negotiation. Not being inclined to +starve his family we set out for another Indian tent ten miles to the +southward, but we found only the frame or tent poles standing when we +reached the spot. The men, by digging where the fireplace had been, +ascertained that the Indians had quitted it the day before and, as +their marches are short when encumbered with the women and baggage, we +sought out their track and followed it. At an abrupt angle of it which +was obscured by trees the men suddenly disappeared and, hastening +forward to discover the cause, I perceived them both still rolling at +the foot of a steep cliff over which they had been dragged while +endeavouring to stop the descent of their sledges. The dogs were gazing +silently with the wreck of their harness about them and the sledges +deeply buried in the snow. The effects of this accident did not detain +us long and we proceeded afterwards with greater caution. + +SOJOURNS WITH AN INDIAN PARTY. + + +The air was warm at noon and the solitary but sweet notes of the jay, +the earliest spring bird, were in every wood. Late in the evening we +descried the ravens wheeling in circles round a small grove of poplars +and, according to our expectations, found the Indians encamped there. + +The men were absent hunting and returned unsuccessful. They had been +several days without provisions and, thinking that I could depend upon +the continuance of their exertions, I gave them a little rum; the next +day their set out and at midnight they swept by us with their dogs in +close pursuit. + +In the morning we found that a moose had eaten the bark of a tree near +our fire. The hunters however again failed; and they attributed the +extreme difficulty of approaching the chase to the calmness of the +weather, which enabled it to hear them at a great distance. + +They concluded, as usual when labouring under any affliction, that they +were tormented by the evil spirit, and assembled to beat a large +tambourine and sing an address to the Manito or deity, praying for +relief according to the explanation which I received; but their prayer +consisted of only three words constantly repeated. One of the hunters +yet remained abroad and, as the wind rose at noon, we had hopes that he +was successful. In the evening he made his appearance and, announcing +that he had killed a large moose, immediately secured the reward which +had been promised. + +The tidings were received with apparent indifference by people whose +lives are alternate changes from the extremity of want to abundance. +But as their countenances seldom betray their emotions it cannot be +determined whether their apathy is real or affected. However the women +prepared their sledges and dogs with the design of dismembering and +bringing home the carcass, a proceeding to which, in their necessitous +condition, I could have had neither reasonable nor available objections +without giving them a substitute. By much solicitation I obtained an +audience and offered them our own provisions on condition of their +suspending the work of destruction till the next day. They agreed to +the proposition and we set out with some Indians for the place where +the animal was lying. The night advancing we were separated by a +snowstorm and, not being skilful enough to follow tracks which were so +speedily filled up, I was bewildered for several hours in the woods, +when I met with an Indian who led me back at such a pace that I was +always in the rear, to his infinite diversion. The Indians are vain of +their local knowledge which is certainly very wonderful. Our companions +had taken out the entrails and young of the moose, which they buried in +the snow. + +The Indians then returned to the tents and one of my men accompanied +them; he was the person charged with the management of the trade at the +hunting tent; and he observed that the opportunity of making a bargain +with the Indians while they were drinking was too advantageous to be +lost. + +It remained for us to prevent the wolves from mangling the moose; for +which purpose we wrapped ourselves in blankets between its feet and +placed the hatchets within our reach. The night was stormy and +apprehension kept me long awake but, finding my companion in so deep a +sleep that nothing could have roused him except the actual gripe of a +wolf, I thought it advisable to imitate his example as much as was in +my power rather than bear the burden of anxiety alone. At daylight we +shook off the snow which was heaped upon us and endeavoured to kindle a +fire, but the violence of the storm defeated all our attempts. At +length two Indians arrived with whose assistance we succeeded, and they +took possession of it to show their sense of our obligations to them. +We were ashamed of the scene before us; the entrails of the moose and +its young, which had been buried at our feet, bore testimony to the +nocturnal revel of the wolves during the time we had slept. This was a +fresh subject of derision for the Indians whose appetites however would +not suffer them to waste long upon us a time so precious. They soon +finished what the wolves had begun and with as little aid from the art +of cookery, eating both the young moose and the contents of the paunch +raw. + +I had scarcely secured myself by a lodge of branches from the snow and +placed the moose in a position for my sketch when we were stormed by a +troop of women and children with their sledges and dogs. We obtained +another short respite from the Indians but our blows could not drive, +nor their caresses entice, the hungry dogs from the tempting feast +before them. + +I had not finished my sketch before the impatient crowd tore the moose +to pieces and loaded their sledges with meat. On our way to the tent a +black wolf rushed out upon an Indian who happened to pass near its den. +It was shot and the Indians carried away three black whelps to improve +the breed of their dogs. I purchased one of them, intending to send it +to England, but it perished for want of proper nourishment. + +The latitude of these tents was 53° 12′ 46″ North, and longitude by +chronometers 103° 13′ 10″ West. On the 5th of April we set out for the +hunting tent by our former track and arrived there in the evening. + +As the increasing warmth of the weather had threatened to interrupt +communication by removing the ice orders had been sent from Cumberland +House to the people at the tent to quit it without delay, which we did +on the 7th. Some altitudes of the Aurora Borealis were obtained. + +We had a fine view at sunrise of the Basquiau Hill, skirting half the +horizon with its white sides chequered by forests of pine. It is seen +from Pine Island Lake at the distance of fifty miles and cannot +therefore be less than three-fourths of a mile in perpendicular height; +probably the greatest elevation between the Atlantic Ocean and the +Rocky Mountains. + +A small stream runs near the hunting tent, strongly impregnated with +salt. There are several salt springs about it which are not frozen +during the winter. + +The surface of the snow, thawing in the sun and freezing at night, had +become a strong crust which sometimes gave way in a circle round our +feet, immersing us in the soft snow beneath. The people were afflicted +with snow blindness, a kind of ophthalmia occasioned by the reflection +of the sun’s rays in the spring. + +The miseries endured during the first journey of this nature are so +great that nothing could induce the sufferer to undertake a second +while under the influence of present pain. He feels his frame crushed +by unaccountable pressure, he drags a galling and stubborn weight at +his feet, and his track is marked with blood. The dazzling scene around +him affords no rest to his eye, no object to divert his attention from +his own agonising sensations. When he arises from sleep half his body +seems dead till quickened into feeling by the irritation of his sores. +But fortunately for him no evil makes an impression so evanescent as +pain. It cannot be wholly banished nor recalled by the force of reality +by any act of the mind, either to affect our determinations or to +sympathise with another. The traveller soon forgets his sufferings and +at every future journey their recurrence is attended with diminished +acuteness. + +It was not before the 10th or 12th of April that the return of the +swans, geese, and ducks gave certain indications of the advance of +spring. The juice of the maple-tree began to flow and the women +repaired to the woods for the purpose of collecting it. This tree which +abounds to the southward is not I believe found to the northward of the +Saskatchewan. The Indians obtain the sap by making incisions into the +tree. They boil it down and evaporate the water, skimming off the +impurities. They are so fond of sweets that after this simple process +they set an extravagant price upon it. + +On the 15th fell the first shower of rain we had seen for six months, +and on the 17th the thermometer rose to 77° in the shade. The whole +face of the country was deluged by the melted snow. All the nameless +heaps of dirt accumulated in the winter now floated over the very +thresholds, and the long-imprisoned scents dilated into vapours so +penetrating that no retreat was any security from them. The flood +descended into the cellar below our house and destroyed a quantity of +powder and tea; a loss irreparable in our situation. + +The noise made by the frogs which this inundation produced is almost +incredible. There is strong reason to believe that they outlive the +severity of winter. They have often been found frozen and revived by +warmth, nor is it possible that the multitude which incessantly filled +our ears with its discordant notes could have been matured in two or +three days. + +The fishermen at Beaver Lake and the other detached parties were +ordered to return to the post. The expedients to which the poor people +were reduced to cross a country so beset with waters presented many +uncouth spectacles. The inexperienced were glad to compromise with the +loss of property for the safety of their persons and, astride upon +ill-balanced rafts with which they struggled to be uppermost, exhibited +a ludicrous picture of distress. Happy were they who could patch up an +old canoe though obliged to bear it half the way on their shoulders +through miry bogs and interwoven willows. But the veteran trader, +wedged in a box of skin with his wife, children, dogs, and furs, +wheeled triumphantly through the current and deposited his +heterogeneous cargo safely on the shore. The woods reechoed with the +return of their exiled tenants. A hundred tribes, as gaily dressed as +any burnished natives of the south, greeted our eyes in our accustomed +walks, and their voices, though unmusical, were the sweetest that ever +saluted our ears. + +From the 19th to the 26th the snow once more blighted the resuscitating +verdure, but a single day was sufficient to remove it. On the 28th the +Saskatchewan swept away the ice which had adhered to its banks, and on +the morrow a boat came down from Carlton House with provisions. We +received such accounts of the state of vegetation at that place that +Dr. Richardson determined to visit it in order to collect botanical +specimens, as the period at which the ice was expected to admit of the +continuation of our journey was still distant. Accordingly he embarked +on the 1st of May. + +In the course of the month the ice gradually wore away from the south +side of the lake but the great mass of it still hung to the north side +with some snow visible on its surface. By the 21st the elevated grounds +were perfectly dry and teeming with the fragrant offspring of the +season. When the snow melted the earth was covered with the fallen +leaves of the last year, and already it was green with the strawberry +plant and the bursting buds of the gooseberry, raspberry, and rose +bushes, soon variegated by the rose and the blossoms of the +choke-cherry. The gifts of nature are disregarded and undervalued till +they are withdrawn and in the hideous regions of the Arctic Zone she +would make a convert of him for whom the gardens of Europe had no +charms or the mild beauties of a southern climate had bloomed in vain. + +Mr. Williams found a delightful occupation in his agricultural +pursuits. The horses were brought to the plough and fields of wheat, +barley, and Indian corn promised to reward his labours. His dairy +furnished us with all the luxuries of an English farm. + +On the 25th the ice departed from Pine Island Lake. We were however +informed that Beaver Lake, which was likewise in our route, would not +afford a passage before the 4th of June. According to directions left +by Mr. Franklin applications were made to the chiefs of the Hudson’s +Bay and North-West Companies’ posts for two canoes with their crews and +a supply of stores for the use of the Expedition. They were not in a +condition to comply with this request till the arrival of their +respective returns from Isle à la Crosse and the Saskatchewan +departments. Of the six men whom we brought from England the most +serviceable, John Hepburn, had accompanied Mr. Franklin, and only one +other desired to prosecute the journey with us. Mr. Franklin had made +arrangements with Mr. Williams for the employment of the remaining five +men in bringing to Cumberland House the ammunition, tobacco, etc., left +at York Fort, which stores were if possible to be sent after us in the +summer. On the 30th Dr. Richardson returned from Carlton House, and on +the 31st the boats arrived belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company’s +Saskatchewan department. We obtained a canoe and two more volunteers. +On the 1st of June the Saskatchewan, swelled by the melting of the snow +near the Rocky Mountains, rose twelve feet and the current of the +little rivers bounding Pine Island ran back into the lake, which it +filled with mud. + +On the 5th the North-West Company’s people arrived and Mr. Connolly +furnished us with a canoe and five Canadians. They were engaged to +attend us till Mr. Franklin should think fit to discharge them and +bound under the usual penalties in case of disobedience or other +improper conduct. These poor people entertained such dread of a ship of +war that they stipulated not to be embarked in Lieutenant Parry’s +vessels if we should find them on the coast, a condition with which +they would gladly have dispensed had that desirable event taken place. +As we required a Canadian foreman and steersman for the other canoe we +were compelled to wait for the appearance of the Isle à la Crosse +canoes under Mr. Clark. + +On the 8th Mr. Williams embarked for York Fort. He gave us a circular +letter addressed to the chiefs of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s posts +directing them to afford us all possible assistance on our route, and +he promised to exert every endeavour to forward the Esquimaux +interpreter, upon whom the success of our journey so much depended. He +was accompanied by eight boats. With him we sent our collections of +plants, minerals, charts, and drawings to be transmitted to England by +the Hudson’s Bay ships. After this period our detention, though short, +cost us more vexation than the whole time we had passed at Cumberland +House because every hour of the short summer was invaluable to us. On +the 11th Mr. Clark arrived and completed our crews. He brought letters +from Mr. Franklin dated March 28th at Fort Chipewyan where he was +engaged procuring hunters and interpreters. A heavy storm of wind and +rain from the north-east again delayed us till the morning of the 13th. +The account we had received at York Factory of the numerous stores at +Cumberland House proved to be very erroneous. The most material stores +we received did not amount in addition to our own to more than two +barrels of powder, a keg of spirits, and two pieces of tobacco, with +pemmican for sixteen days. + +The crew of Dr. Richardson’s canoe consisted of three Englishmen and +three Canadians and the other carried five Canadians; both were deeply +laden and the waves ran high on the lake. No person in our party being +well acquainted with the rivers to the northward, Mr. Connolly gave us +a pilot on condition that we should exchange him when we met with the +Athabasca brigade of canoes. At four A.M. we embarked. + +We soon found that birchen-bark canoes were not calculated to brave +rough weather on a large lake, for we were compelled to land on the +opposite border to free them from the water which had already saturated +their cargoes. The wind became more moderate and we were enabled, after +traversing a chain of smaller lakes, to enter the mouth of the Sturgeon +River at sunset, where we encamped. + +The lading of the canoes is always if possible carried on shore at +night and the canoes taken out of the water. The following evening we +reached Beaver Lake and landed to repair some damages sustained by the +canoes. A round stone will displace the lading of a canoe without doing +any injury but a slight blow against a sharp corner penetrates the +bark. For the purpose of repairing it, a small quantity of gum or +pitch, bark and pine roots are embarked, and the business is so +expeditiously performed that the speed of the canoe amply compensates +for every delay. The Sturgeon River is justly called by the Canadians +La Rivière Maligne from its numerous and dangerous rapids. Against the +strength of a rapid it is impossible to effect any progress by paddling +and the canoes are tracked or, if the bank will not admit of it, +propelled with poles, in the management of which the Canadians show +great dexterity. Their simultaneous motions were strongly contrasted +with the awkward confusion of the inexperienced Englishmen, defended by +the torrent, who sustained the blame of every accident which occurred. + +At sunset we encamped on an island in Beaver Lake and, at four A.M. the +next morning, passed the first portage in the Ridge River. Beaver Lake +is twelve miles in length and six in breadth. The flat limestone +country rises into bold rocks on its banks and at the mouth of the +Ridge River the limestone discontinues. The lake is very deep and has +already been noticed for the number and excellence of its fish. The +Ridge River is rapid and shallow. We had emerged from the muddy +channels through an alluvial soil, and the primitive rocks interrupted +our way with frequent portages through the whole route to Isle à la +Crosse Lake. At two P.M. we passed the mouth of the Hay River, running +from the westward, and the ridge above its confluence takes the name of +the Great River, which rises at the height of land called Frog Portage. + +The thermometer was this day 100° in the sun and the heat was extremely +oppressive from our constant exposure to it. We crossed three portages +in the Great River and encamped at the last; here we met the director +of the North-West Company’s affairs in the north, Mr. Stuart, on his +way to Fort William in a light canoe. He had left the Athabasca Lake +only thirteen days and brought letters from Mr. Franklin who desired +that we would endeavour to collect stores of every kind at Isle à la +Crosse and added a favourable account of the country to the northward +of the Slave Lake. + +On the 16th at three A.M. we continued our course, the river increasing +to the breadth of half a mile with many rapids between the rocky +islands. The banks were luxuriantly clothed with pines, poplars, and +birch trees, of the largest size, but the different shades of green +were undistinguishable at a distance and the glow of autumnal colours +was wanting to render the variety beautiful. + +Having crossed two portages at the different extremities of the Island +Lake we ran under sail through two extensive sheets of water called the +Heron and Pelican Lakes, the former of which is fifteen miles in length +and the latter five; but its extent to the southward has not been +explored. An intricate channel with four small portages conducted us to +the Woody Lake. Its borders were indeed walls of pines, hiding the face +of steep and high rocks; and we wandered in search of a landing-place +till ten P.M., when we were forced to take shelter from the impending +storm on a small island where we wedged ourselves between the trees. +But though we secured the canoes we incurred a personal evil of much +greater magnitude in the torments inflicted by the mosquitoes, a plague +which had grown upon us since our departure from Cumberland House and +which infested us during the whole summer; we found no relief from +their attacks by exposing ourselves to the utmost violence of the wind +and rain. Our last resource was to plunge ourselves in the water, and +from this uncomfortable situation we gladly escaped at daylight, and +hoisted our sails. + +The Woody Lake is thirteen miles in length and a small grassy channel +at its north-western extremity leads to the Frog Portage, the source of +the waters descending by Beaver Lake to the Saskatchewan. The distance +to the Missinippi or Churchill River is only three hundred and eighty +yards and, as its course crosses the height nearly at right angles to +the direction of the Great River, it would be superfluous to compute +the elevation at this place. The portage is in latitude 55° 26′ 0″ +North, and longitude 103° 34′ 50″ West. Its name according to Sir +Alexander Mackenzie is derived from the Crees having left suspended a +stretched frog’s skin in derision of the Northern Indian mode of +dressing the beaver. + +The part of the Missinippi in which we embarked we should have mistaken +for a lake had it not been for the rapidity of the current against +which we made our way. At four P.M. we passed a long portage occasioned +by a ledge of rocks three hundred yards in length over which the river +falls seven or eight feet. After crossing another portage we encamped. + +On the 18th we had rain, wind, and thunder the whole day but this +weather was much preferable to the heat we had borne hitherto. We +passed three portages and at six P.M. encamped on the north bank. Below +the third portage is the mouth of the Rapid River, flowing from a large +lake to the southward, on which a post was formerly maintained by the +North-West Company. Next morning we found ourselves involved in a +confused mass of islands through the openings of which we could not +discern the shore. The guide’s knowledge of the river did not extend +beyond the last portage, and our perplexity continued till we observed +some foam floating on the water and took the direction from which it +came. The noise of a heavy fall at the Mountain Portage reached our +ears at the distance of four miles and we arrived there at eight A.M. +The portage was a difficult ascent over a rocky island between which +and the main shore were two cataracts and a third in sight above them, +making another portage. We surprised a large brown bear which +immediately retreated into the woods. To the northward of the second +portage we again found the channels intricate but, the shores being +sometimes visible, we ventured to proceed. The character of the country +was new and more interesting than before. The mountainous and strong +elevations receded from the bank and the woods crept through their +openings to the valleys behind, the adventurous pine alone ascending +their bases and braving storms unfelt below. + +At noon we landed at the Otter Portage where the river ran with great +velocity for half a mile among large stones. Having carried across the +principal part of the cargo the people attempted to track the canoes +along the edge of the rapid. With the first they succeeded but the +other, in which were the foreman and steersman, was overset and swept +away by the current. An account of this misfortune was speedily +conveyed to the upper end of the portage and the men launched the +remaining canoe into the rapid, though wholly unacquainted with the +dangers of it. The descent was quickly accomplished and they perceived +the bottom of the lost canoe above water in a little bay whither it had +been whirled by the eddy. One man had reached the bank but no traces +could be found of the foreman Louis Saint Jean. We saved the canoe out +of which two guns and a case of preserved meats had been thrown into +the rapid.[17] So early a disaster deeply affected the spirits of the +Canadians, and their natural vivacity gave way to melancholy +forebodings while they erected a wooden cross in the rocks near the +spot where their companion perished. + + [17] Mr. Hood himself was the first to leap into the canoe and incite + the men to follow him and shoot the rapid to save the lives of their + companions.—Dr. Richardson’s Journal. + + +The loss of this man’s services and the necessity of procuring a guide +determined us to wait for the arrival of the North-West Company’s +people from Fort Chipewyan and we encamped accordingly. The canoe was +much shattered but, as the gunwales were not broken, we easily repaired +it. In the evening a North-West canoe arrived with two of the partners. +They gave us an account of Mr. Franklin’s proceedings and referred us +to the brigade following them for a guide. + +During the 20th it rained heavily and we passed the day in anxious +suspense confined to our tents. A black bear came to the bank on the +opposite side of the river and, on seeing us, glided behind the trees. + +Late on the 21st Mr. Robertson of the Hudson’s Bay Company arrived and +furnished us with a guide, but desired that he might be exchanged when +we met the northern canoes. We took advantage of the remainder of the +day to cross the next portage which was three-fourths of a mile in +length. + +On the 22nd we crossed three small portages and encamped at the fourth. +At one of them we passed some of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s canoes and +our application to them was unsuccessful. We began to suspect that Isle +à la Crosse was the nearest place at which we might hope for +assistance. However on the morning of the 23rd, as we were about to +embark, we encountered the last brigades of canoes belonging to both +the Companies and obtained a guide and foreman from them. Thus +completely equipped we entered the Black Bear Island Lake, the +navigation of which requires a very experienced pilot. Its length is +twenty-two miles and its breadth varies from three to five, yet it is +so choked with islands that no channel is to be found through it +exceeding a mile in breadth. At sunset we landed and encamped on an +island, and at six A.M. on the 24th left the lake and crossed three +portages into another which has probably several communications with +the last, as that by which we passed is too narrow to convey the whole +body of the Missinippi. At one of these portages called the Pin Portage +is a rapid about ten yards in length with a descent of ten or twelve +feet and beset with rocks. Light canoes sometimes venture down this +fatal gulf to avoid the portage, unappalled by the warning crosses +which overhang the brink, the mournful records of former failures. + +The Hudson’s Bay Company’s people whom we passed on the 23rd going to +the rock house with their furs were badly provided with food, of which +we saw distressing proofs at every portage behind them. They had +stripped the birch trees of their rind to procure the soft pulpy +vessels in contact with the wood which are sweet but very insufficient +to satisfy a craving appetite. + +The lake to the westward of the Pin Portage is called Sandfly Lake; it +is seven miles long and a wide channel connects it with the Serpent +Lake, the extent of which to the southward we could not discern. There +is nothing remarkable in this chain of lakes except their shapes, being +rocky basins filled by the waters of the Missinippi, insulating the +massy eminences and meandering with almost imperceptible current +between them. From the Serpent to the Sandy Lake it is again confined +in a narrow space by the approach of its winding banks, and on the 26th +we were some hours employed in traversing a series of shallow rapids +where it was necessary to lighten the canoes. Having missed the path +through the woods we walked two miles in the water upon sharp stones, +from which some of us were incessantly slipping into deep holes and +floundering in vain for footing at the bottom, a scene highly diverting +notwithstanding our fatigue. We were detained in Sandy Lake till one +P.M. by a strong gale when, the wind becoming moderate, we crossed five +miles to the mouth of the river and at four P.M. left the main branch +of it and entered a little rivulet called the Grassy River, running +through an extensive reedy swamp. It is the nest of innumerable ducks +which rear their young among the long rushes in security from beasts of +prey. At sunset we encamped on the banks of the main branch. + +At three A.M. June 28th we embarked in a thick fog occasioned by a fall +of the temperature of the air ten degrees below that of the water. +Having crossed Knee Lake which is nine miles in length and a portage at +its western extremity we entered Primeau Lake with a strong and +favourable wind, by the aid of which we ran nineteen miles through it +and encamped at the river’s mouth. It is shaped like the barb of an +arrow with the point towards the north and its greatest breadth is +about four miles. + +During the night a torrent of rain washed us from our beds accompanied +with the loudest thunder I ever heard. This weather continued during +the 29th and often compelled us to land and turn the canoes up to +prevent them from filling. We passed one portage and the confluence of +a river said to afford by other rivers beyond a height of land a +shorter but more difficult route to the Athabasca Lake than that which +is generally pursued. + +On the 28th we crossed the last portage and at ten A.M. entered the +Isle à la Crosse Lake. Its long succession of woody points, both banks +stretching towards the south till their forms were lost in the haze of +the horizon, was a grateful prospect to us after our bewildered and +interrupted voyage in the Missinippi. The gale wafted us with unusual +speed and as the lake increased in breadth the waves swelled to a +dangerous height. A canoe running before the wind is very liable to +burst asunder when on the top of a wave so that part of the bottom is +out of the water, for there is nothing to support the weight of its +heavy cargo but the bark and the slight gunwales attached to it. + +On making known our exigencies to the gentlemen in charge of the +Hudson’s Bay and North-West Companies’ forts they made up an assortment +of stores amounting to five bales, for four of which we were indebted +to Mr. McLeod of the North-West Company who shared with us the +ammunition absolutely required for the support of his post, receiving +in exchange an order for the same quantity upon the cargo which we +expected to follow us from York Factory. We had heard from Mr. Stuart +that Fort Chipewyan was too much impoverished to supply the wants of +the Expedition and we found Isle à la Crosse in the same condition; +which indeed we might have foreseen from the exhausted state of +Cumberland House but could not have provided against. We never had +heard before our departure from York that the posts in the interior +only received annually the stores necessary for the consumption of a +single year. It was fortunate for us that Mr. Franklin had desired ten +bags of pemmican to be sent from the Saskatchewan across the plains to +Isle à la Crosse for our use. This resource was untouched but we could +not embark more than five pieces in our own canoes. However Mr. McLeod +agreed to send a canoe after us to the Methye Portage with the +pemmican, and we calculated that the diminution of our provision would +there enable us to receive it. + +The Beaver River enters this lake on the South-East side, and another +river which has not been named on the South-West. Both these rivers are +branches of the Missinippi as it is the only outlet from the lake. The +banks appeared to be rocky and the beach in many places sandy but its +waters are yellow and muddy. It produces a variety of fish among which +its white-fish are esteemed the best in the country. The only birds +visible at this season are common to every part of the Missinippi; +gulls, ducks, pigeons, goatsuckers, and the raven; and geese and swans +pay a momentary visit in passing to the north and returning. + +There was little in the forts differing from the establishments that we +had before seen. The ground on which they are erected is sandy and +favourable to cultivation. Curiosity however was satisfied by the first +experiment and utility alone has been unable to extend it. Isle à la +Crosse is frequented by the Crees and the Chipewyans. It is not the +dread of the Indians but of one another that has brought the rival +Companies so close together at every trading post, each party seeking +to prevent the other from engaging the affections of the natives and +monopolising the trade. Whenever a settlement is made by the one the +other immediately follows, without considering the eligibility of the +place, for it may injure its opponent though it cannot benefit itself, +and that advantage, which is the first object of all other commercial +bodies, becomes but the second with the fur traders. + +On the evening of the 30th we embarked and entered a wide channel to +the northward of the forts and extending towards the north-west. It +gradually decreased in breadth till it became a river which is the +third fork of the Missinippi and, its current being almost insensible, +we entered the Clear Lake at ten A.M. on the 1st of July. Of this lake, +which is very large, no part is known except the south border, but its +extent would lead us to conclude that its evaporation must be supplied +by another river to the northward, especially as the small channel that +communicates with Buffalo Lake is motionless. The existence of such a +river is asserted by the Indians, and a shorter passage might be found +by it across the height of land to Clear Water River than the portage +from the Methye Lake. + +In Buffalo Lake the wind was too strong for us to proceed and we +therefore encamped upon a gravel beach thrown up by the waves. We +embarked at three A.M. July 2nd and at four P.M. entered the mouth of +the Methye River. The lake is thirty-four miles in length and fourteen +in breadth. It is probably very deep for we saw no islands on this wide +expanse except at the borders. On the south-west side were two forts +belonging to the Companies and near them a solitary hill seven or eight +hundred feet high. At eight P.M. we encamped in the Methye River at the +confluence of the river Pembina. A route has been explored by it to the +Red Willow River across the height of land, but the difficulties of it +were so great that the ordinary route is preferred. + +On the 3rd we passed through the Methye River and encamped on the +borders of the Methye Lake. The soil from Isle à la Crosse to this +place is sandy with some portion of clay and the trees numerous; but +the Methye River is stony and so shallow that, to lighten the canoes, +we made two portages of five and two miles. The paths were overflowed +with cold spring water and barricaded by fallen trees; we should have +been contented to immerse ourselves wholly had the puddle been +sufficiently deep for the mosquitoes devoured every part that was +exposed to them. + +On the 4th we crossed the Methye Lake and landed at the portage on the +north-west side in one of the sources of the Missinippi. The lake is +seventeen miles in length with a large island in the middle. We +proceeded to the north side of the portage with two men carrying a tent +and some instruments, leaving the canoes and cargoes to be transported +by daily journeys of two or three miles. The distance is fourteen +statute miles and there are two small lakes about five miles from the +north side. Several species of fish were found in them though they have +no known communication with any other body of water, being situated on +the elevation of the height. The road was a gentle ascent, miry from +the late rainy weather and shaded by pines, poplars, birches, and +cypresses, which terminated our view. On the north side we discovered +through an opening in the trees that we were on a hill eight or nine +hundred feet high and at the edge of a steep descent. We were prepared +to expect an extensive prospect, but the magnificent scene before us +was so superior to what the nature of the country had promised that it +banished even our sense of suffering from the mosquitoes which hovered +in clouds about our heads. Two parallel chains of hills extended +towards the setting sun, their various projecting outlines exhibiting +the several gradations of distance and the opposite bases closing at +the horizon. On the nearest eminence the objects were clearly defined +by their dark shadows; the yellow rays blended their softening hues +with brilliant green on the next, and beyond it all distinction melted +into gray and purple. In the long valley between, the smooth and +colourless Clear Water River wound its spiral course, broken and +shattered by encroaching woods. An exuberance of rich herbage covered +the soil and lofty trees climbed the precipice at our feet, hiding its +brink with their summits. Impatient as we were and blinded with pain we +paid a tribute of admiration, which this beautiful landscape is capable +of exciting unaided by the borrowed charms of a calm atmosphere, +glowing with the vivid tints of evening. + +We descended to the banks of the Clear Water River and, having +encamped, the two men returned to assist their companions. We had +sometimes before procured a little rest by closing the tent and burning +wood or flashing gunpowder within, the smoke driving the mosquitoes +into the crannies of the ground. But this remedy was now ineffectual +though we employed it so perseveringly as to hazard suffocation: they +swarmed under our blankets, goring us with their envenomed trunks and +steeping our clothes in blood. We rose at daylight in a fever and our +misery was unmitigated during our whole stay. + +The mosquitoes of America resemble in shape those of Africa and Europe +but differ essentially in size and other particulars. There are two +distinct species, the largest of which is brown and the smallest black. +Where they are bred cannot easily be determined for they are numerous +in every soil. They make their first appearance in May and the cold +destroys them in September; in July they are most voracious and, +fortunately for the traders, the journeys from the trading posts to the +factories are generally concluded at that period. The food of the +mosquito is blood which it can extract by penetrating the hide of a +buffalo; and if it is not disturbed it gorges itself so as to swell its +body into a transparent globe. The wound does not swell like that of +the African mosquito, but it is infinitely more painful; and when +multiplied a hundredfold and continued for so many successive days it +becomes an evil of such magnitude that cold, famine, and every other +concomitant of an inhospitable climate must yield the pre-eminence to +it. It chases the buffalo to the plains, irritating him to madness; and +the reindeer to the seashore, from which they do not return till the +scourge has ceased. + +On the 6th the thermometer was 106° in the sun and on the 7th 110°. The +mosquitoes sought the shade in the heat of the day. It was some +satisfaction to us to see the havoc made among them by a large and +beautiful species of dragonfly called the mosquito hawk, which wheeled +through their retreats swallowing their prey without a momentary +diminution of speed. But the temporary relief that we had hoped for was +only an exchange of tormentors: our new assailant, the horsefly, or +bulldog, ranged in the hottest glare of the sun and carried off a +portion of flesh at each attack. Another noxious insect, the smallest +but not the least formidable, was the sandfly known in Canada by the +name of the _brulot_. To such annoyance all travellers must submit, and +it would be unworthy to complain of that grievance in the pursuit of +knowledge which is endured for the sake of profit. This detail of it +has only been as an excuse for the scantiness of our observations on +the most interesting part of the country through which we passed. + +The north side of the Methye Portage is in latitude 56° 41′ 40″ North +and longitude 109° 52′ 0″ West. It is of course one hundred and +twenty-four miles from Isle à la Crosse and considered as a branch of +the Missinippi, five hundred and ninety-two miles from the Frog +Portage. The Clear Water River passing through the valley, described +above, evidently rises not far to the eastward. The height, computed by +the same mode as that of the Echiamamis, by allowing a foot for each +mile of distance and six feet on an average for each fall and rapid, is +two thousand four hundred and sixty-seven feet above the level of the +sea, admitting it to be nine hundred feet above the Clear Water River. +The country in a line between it and the mouth of Mackenzie’s River is +a continual descent, although to the eastward of that line there may be +several heights between it and the Arctic Sea. To the eastward the +lands descend to Hudson’s Bay, and to the westward also, till the +Athabasca River cuts through it, from whence it ascends to the Rocky +Mountains. Daring was the spirit of enterprise that first led Commerce +with her cumbrous train from the waters of Hudson’s Bay to those of the +Arctic Sea, across an obstacle to navigation so stupendous as this; and +persevering has been the industry which drew riches from a source so +remote. + +HIS JOURNEY TO CHIPEWYAN. + + +On the 8th two men arrived and informed us that they had brought us our +ten bags of pemmican from Isle à la Crosse, but that they were found to +be rotten. Thus were we unexpectedly deprived of the most essential of +our stores for we knew Fort Chipewyan to be destitute of provisions and +that Mr. Franklin depended upon us for a supply, whereas enough did not +remain for our own use. On the 9th the canoes and cargoes reached the +north side of the portage. Our people had selected two bags of pemmican +less mouldy than the rest which they left on the beach. Its decay was +caused by some defect in the mode of mixing it. + +On the 10th, we embarked in the Clear Water River and proceeded down +the current. The hills, the banks, and bed of the river were composed +of fine yellow sand with some limestone rocks. The surface soil was +alluvial. At eight A.M. we passed a portage on which the limestone +rocks were singularly scattered through the woods, bearing the +appearance of houses and turrets overgrown with moss. The earth emitted +a hollow sound and the river was divided by rocks into narrow crooked +channels, every object indicating that some convulsion had disturbed +the general order of nature at this place. We had passed a portage +above it and after two long portages below it we encamped. Near the +last was a small stream so strongly impregnated with sulphur as to +taint the air to a great distance around it. We saw two brown bears on +the hills in the course of the day. + +At daylight on the 11th we embarked. The hills continued on both sides +of the mouth of the river, varying from eight hundred to one thousand +feet in height. They declined to the banks in long green slopes +diversified by woody mounds and copses. The pines were not here in +thick impenetrable masses but perched aloft in single groups on the +heights or shrouded by the livelier hues of the poplar and willow. + +We passed the mouth of the Red Willow River on the south bank flowing +through a deep ravine. It is the continuation of the route by the +Pembina before mentioned. At noon we entered the majestic Athabasca or +Elk River. Its junction with the Clear Water River is called the Forks. +Its banks were inaccessible cliffs, apparently of clay and stones about +two hundred feet high, and its windings in the south were encircled by +high mountains. Its breadth exceeded half a mile and was swelled to a +mile in many places by long muddy islands in the middle covered with +trees. No more portages interrupted our course but a swift current +hurried us towards the quarter in which our anticipated discoveries +were to commence. The passing cliffs returned a loud confusion of +echoes to the sprightly canoe song and the dashing paddles and the +eagles, watching with half-closed eyes on the pine-tops, started from +their airy rest and prepared their drowsy pinions for the flight. + +About twenty miles from the Forks are some salt pits and plains, said +to be very extensive. The height of the banks was reduced to twenty or +thirty feet and the hills ranged themselves at an increased distance +from the banks in the same variety as those of the Clear Water River. +At sunset we encamped on a small sandy island but the next morning made +a speedy retreat to the canoes, the water having nearly overflown our +encampment. We passed two deserted settlements of the fur traders on +opposite banks at a place called Pierre au Calumet. Beyond it the hills +disappeared and the banks were no longer visible above the trees. The +river carries away yearly large portions of soil which increases its +breadth and diminishes its depth, rendering the water so muddy as to be +scarcely drinkable. Whole forests of timber are drifted down the stream +and choke up the channels between the islands at its mouth. We observed +the traces of herds of buffaloes where they had crossed the river, the +trees being trodden down and strewed as if by a whirlwind. + +At four P.M. we left the main branch of the Athabasca, entering a small +river called the Embarras. It is narrow and muddy with pines of an +enormous size on its banks. Some of them are two hundred feet high and +three or four feet in diameter. At nine P.M. we landed and encamped +but, finding ourselves in a nest of mosquitoes, we continued our +journey before daybreak; and at eight A.M. emerged into the Athabasca +Lake. A strong wind agitated this sea of fresh water which however we +crossed without any accident, and landed on the north side of it at +Fort Chipewyan where we had the satisfaction of finding our companions +in good health, and of experiencing that sympathy in our anxiety on the +state of affairs, which was only to be expected from those who were to +share our future fortunes. + + + + +CHAPTER 7. + +DEPARTURE FROM CHIPEWYAN. DIFFICULTIES OF THE VARIOUS NAVIGATIONS OF +THE RIVERS AND LAKES, AND OF THE PORTAGES. SLAVE LAKE AND FORT +PROVIDENCE. SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS, AND DISCONTENT OF THE CANADIAN +VOYAGERS. DIFFICULTIES WITH REGARD TO THE INDIAN GUIDES. REFUSAL TO +PROCEED. VISIT OF OBSERVATION TO THE UPPER PART OF COPPER-MINE RIVER. +RETURN TO THE WINTER QUARTERS OF FORT ENTERPRISE. + + +DEPARTURE FROM CHIPEWYAN. + + +July 18, 1820. + +Early this morning the stores were distributed to the three canoes. Our +stock of provision unfortunately did not amount to more than sufficient +for one day’s consumption exclusive of two barrels of flour, three +cases of preserved meats, some chocolate, arrowroot, and portable soup, +which we had brought from England and intended to reserve for our +journey to the coast the next season. Seventy pounds of moose meat and +a little barley were all that Mr. Smith was enabled to give us. It was +gratifying however to perceive that this scarcity of food did not +depress the spirits of our Canadian companions who cheerfully loaded +their canoes and embarked in high glee after they had received the +customary dram. At noon we bade farewell to our kind friend Mr. Smith. +The crews commenced a lively paddling song on quitting the shore which +was continued until we had lost sight of the houses. We soon reached +the western boundary of the lake and at two entered the Stony River, +one of the discharges of the Athabasca Lake into the Slave Lake and, +having a favouring current, passed swiftly along. This narrow stream is +confined between low swampy banks which support willows, dwarf birch, +and alder. At five we passed its conflux with the Peace River. The +Slave River, formed by the union of these streams, is about +three-quarters of a mile wide. We descended this magnificent river with +much rapidity and, after passing through several narrow channels, +formed by an assemblage of islands, crossed a spot where the waters had +a violent whirling motion which, when the river is low, is said to +subside into a dangerous rapid; on the present occasion no other +inconvenience was felt than the inability of steering the canoes which +were whirled about in every direction by the eddies until the current +carried them beyond their influence. We encamped at seven on the swampy +bank of the river but had scarcely pitched the tents before we were +visited by a terrible thunderstorm; the rain fell in torrents and the +violence of the wind caused the river to overflow its banks so that we +were completely flooded. Swarms of mosquitoes succeeded the storm and +their tormenting stings, superadded to other inconveniences, induced us +to embark and, after taking a hasty supper, to pursue our voyage down +the stream during the night. + +At six on the following morning we passed the Reindeer Islands and at +ten reached the entrance of the Dog River where we halted to set the +fishing nets. These were examined in the evening but, to our +mortification, we obtained only four small trout and were compelled to +issue part of our preserved meats for supper. The latitude of the mouth +of Dog River was observed 59° 52′ 16″ North. + +DIFFICULTIES OF THE VARIOUS NAVIGATIONS OF THE RIVERS AND LAKES, AND OF +THE PORTAGES. + + +The nets were taken up at daylight but they furnished only a solitary +pike. We lost no time in embarking and crossed the crooked channel of +the Dog Rapid when two of the canoes came in such violent contact with +each other that the sternmost had its bow broken off. We were +fortunately near the shore or the disabled canoe would have sunk. The +injury being repaired in two hours we again embarked and, having +descended another rapid, arrived at the Cassette Portage of four +hundred and sixty paces, over which the cargoes and canoes were carried +in about twenty-six minutes. We next passed through a narrow channel +full of rapids, crossed the Portage d’Embarras of seventy yards, and +the portage of the Little Rock of three hundred yards, at which another +accident happened to one of the canoes by the bowman slipping and +letting it fall upon a rock and breaking it in two. Two hours were +occupied in sewing the detached pieces together and covering the seam +with pitch but, this being done, it was as effective as before. After +leaving this place we soon came to the next portage of two hundred and +seventy-three paces; and shortly afterwards to the Mountain Portage of +one hundred and twenty, which is appropriately named as the path leads +over the summit of a high hill. This elevated situation commands a very +grand and picturesque view for some miles along the river which at this +part is about a mile wide. + +We next crossed a portage of one hundred and twenty yards; and then the +Pelican Portage of eight hundred paces. Mr. Back took an accurate +sketch of the interesting scenery which the river presents at this +place. After descending six miles farther we came to the last portage +on the route to Slave Lake which we crossed and encamped in its lower +end. It is called “_The Portage of the Drowned_” and it received that +name from a melancholy accident which took place many years ago. Two +canoes arrived at the upper end of the portage in one of which there +was an experienced guide. This man, judging from the height of the +river, deemed it practicable to shoot the rapid and determined upon +trying it. He accordingly placed himself in the bow of his canoe, +having previously agreed that, if the passage was found easy, he +should, on reaching the bottom of the rapid, fire a musket as a signal +for the other canoe to follow. The rapid proved dangerous and called +forth all the skill of the guide and the utmost exertion of his crew +and they narrowly escaped destruction. Just as they were landing an +unfortunate fellow, seizing the loaded fowling-piece, fired at a duck +which rose at the instant. The guide, anticipating the consequences, +ran with the utmost haste to the other end of the portage but he was +too late: the other canoe had pushed off and he arrived only to witness +the fate of his comrades. They got alarmed in the middle of the rapid, +the canoe was upset, and every man perished. + +The various rapids we passed this day are produced by an assemblage of +islands and rocky ledges which obstruct the river and divide it into +many narrow channels. Two of these channels are rendered still more +difficult by accumulations of drift timber, a circumstance which has +given a name to one of the portages. The rocks which compose the bed of +the river and the numerous islands belong to the granite formation. The +distance made today was thirteen miles. + +July 21. + +We embarked at four A.M. and pursued our course down the river. The +rocks ceased at the last portage and below it the banks are composed of +alluvial soil which is held together by the roots of trees and shrubs +that crown their summits. The river is about a mile wide and the +current is greatly diminished. At eight we landed at the mouth of the +Salt River and pitched our tents, intending to remain there that and +the next day for the purpose of fishing. After breakfast, which made +another inroad on our preserved meats, we proceeded up the river in a +light canoe to visit the salt springs, leaving a party behind to attend +the nets. This river is about one hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its +waters did not become brackish until we had ascended it seven or eight +miles but, when we had passed several rivulets of fresh water which +flowed in, the main stream became very salt, at the same time +contracting its width to fifteen or twenty yards. At a distance of +twenty-two miles, including the windings of the river, the plains +commence. Having pitched the tent at this spot we set out to visit the +principal springs and had walked about three miles when the mosquitoes +compelled us to give up our project. We did not see the termination of +the plains toward the east, but on the north and west they are bounded +by an even ridge about six or seven hundred feet in height. Several +salt springs issue from the foot of this ridge and spread their waters +over the plain which consists of tenacious clay. During the summer much +evaporation takes place and large heaps of salt are left behind +crystallised in the form of cubes. Some beds of grayish compact gypsum +were exposed on the sides of the hills. + +The next morning after filling some casks with salt for our use during +winter we embarked to return, and had descended the river a few miles +when, turning round a point, we perceived a buffalo plunge into the +river before us. Eager to secure so valuable a prize we instantly +opened a fire upon him from four muskets and in a few minutes he fell, +but not before he had received fourteen balls. The carcass was towed to +the bank and the canoe speedily laden with meat. After this piece of +good fortune we descended the stream merrily, our voyagers chanting +their liveliest songs. On arrival at the mouth of the river we found +that our nets had not produced more than enough to supply a scanty meal +to the men whom we had left behind, but this was now of little +importance as the acquisition of meat we had made would enable us to +proceed without more delay to Slave Lake. The _poisson inconnu_ +mentioned by Mackenzie is found here. It is a species of the Genus +Salmo, and is said by the Indians to ascend from the Arctic Sea but, +being unable to pass the cascade of the Slave River, is not found +higher than this place. In the evening a violent thunderstorm came on +with heavy rain, thermometer 70°. + +At a very early hour on the following morning we embarked and continued +to paddle against a very strong wind and high waves under the shelter +of the bank of the rivers until two P.M. when, having arrived at a more +exposed part of the stream, the canoes took in so much water that we +were obliged to disembark on a small island. The river here is from one +mile and a quarter to one mile and three-quarters wide. Its banks are +of moderate height, sandy, and well wooded. + +SLAVE LAKE AND FORT PROVIDENCE. + + +July 24. + +We made more progress notwithstanding the continuance of the wind. The +course of the river is very winding, making in one place a circuit of +seven or eight miles round a peninsula which is joined to the west bank +by a narrow isthmus. Near the foot of this elbow a long island occupies +the centre of the river which it divides into two channels. The +longitude was obtained near to it 113° 25′ 36″ and variation 27° 25′ +14″ North, and the latitude 60° 54′ 52″ North, about four miles farther +down. We passed the mouth of a broad channel leading to the north-east +termed La Grande Rivière de Jean, one of the two large branches by +which the river pours its waters into the Great Slave Lake; the flooded +delta at the mouth of the river is intersected by several smaller +channels through one of which, called the Channel of the Scaffold, we +pursued our voyage on the following morning and by eight A.M. reached +the establishment of the North-West Company on Moose-Deer Island. We +found letters from Mr. Wentzel, dated Fort Providence, a station on the +north side of the lake, which communicated to us that there was an +Indian guide waiting for us at that post; but that the chief and the +hunters who were to accompany the party had gone to a short distance to +hunt, having become impatient at our delay. + +Soon after landing I visited the Hudson’s Bay post on the same island +and engaged Pierre St. Germain, an interpreter for the Copper Indians. +We regretted to find the posts of both the Companies extremely bare of +provision but, as the gentlemen in charge had despatched men on the +preceding evening to a band of Indians in search of meat and they +promised to furnish us with whatever should be brought, it was deemed +advisable to wait for their return as the smallest supply was now of +importance to us. Advantage was taken of the delay to repair +effectually the canoe which had been broken in the Dog Rapid. On the +next evening the men arrived with the meat and enabled Mr. McLeod of +the North-West Company to furnish us with four hundred pounds of dried +provisions. Mr. McVicar of the Hudson’s Bay Company also supplied one +hundred and fifty pounds. This quantity we considered would be +sufficient until we could join the hunters. We also obtained three +fishing-nets, a gun, and a pair of pistols, which were all the stores +these posts could furnish, although the gentlemen in charge were much +disposed to assist us. + +Moose-Deer Island is about a mile in diameter and rises towards the +centre about three hundred feet above the lake. Its soil is in general +sandy, in some parts swampy. The varieties of the northern berries grow +abundantly on it. The North-West Company’s fort is in latitude 61° 11′ +8″ North, longitude 113° 51′ 37″ West, being two hundred and sixty +statute miles distant from Fort Chipewyan by the river course. The +variation of the compass is 25° 40′ 47″ East. The houses of the two +Companies are small and have a bleak northern aspect. There are vast +accumulations of driftwood on the shores of the lake, brought down by +the river, which afford plenty of fuel. The inhabitants live +principally on the fish, which the lake at certain seasons furnishes in +great abundance; of these the white-fish, trout, and _poisson inconnu_ +are considered the best. They also procure moose, buffalo, and reindeer +meat occasionally from their hunters; but these animals are generally +found at the distance of several days’ walk from the forts. The Indians +who trade here are Chipewyans. Beavers, martens, foxes, and muskrats +are caught in numbers in the vicinity of this great body of water. The +mosquitoes here were still a serious annoyance to us but less numerous +than before. They were in some degree replaced by a small sandfly, +whose bite is succeeded by a copious flow of blood and considerable +swelling but is attended with incomparably less irritation than the +puncture of the mosquito. + +On the 27th of July we embarked at four A.M. and proceeded along the +south shore of the lake through a narrow channel, formed by some +islands, beyond the confluence of the principal branch of the Slave +River; and as far as Stony Island, where we breakfasted. This island is +merely a rock of gneiss that rises forty or fifty feet above the lake +and is precipitous on the north side. As the day was fine and the lake +smooth we ventured upon paddling across to the Reindeer Islands, which +were distant about thirteen miles in a northern direction, instead of +pursuing the usual track by keeping farther along the south shore which +inclines to the eastward from this point. These islands are numerous +and consist of granite, rising from one hundred to two hundred feet +above the water. They are for the most part naked; but towards the +centres of the larger ones there is a little soil and a few groves of +pines. At seven in the evening we landed upon one of them and encamped. +On the following morning we ran before a strong breeze and a heavy +swell for some hours, but at length were obliged to seek shelter on a +large island adjoining to Isle a la Cache of Mackenzie, where the +following observations were obtained: latitude 61° 50′ 18″ North, +longitude 113° 21′ 40″ West, and variation 31° 2′ 06″ East. + +The wind and swell having subsided in the afternoon we reembarked and +steered towards the western point of the Big Island of Mackenzie and, +when four miles distant from it, had forty-two fathoms soundings. +Passing between this island and a promontory of the main shore, termed +Big Cape, we entered into a deep bay which receives the waters from +several rivers that come from the northward; and we immediately +perceived a decrease in the temperature of the waters from 59 to 48°. +We coasted along the eastern side of the bay, its western shore being +always visible, but the canoes were exposed to the hazard of being +broken by the numerous sunken rocks which were scattered in our track. +We encamped for the night on a rocky island and by eight A.M. on the +following morning arrived at Fort Providence which is situated +twenty-one miles from the entrance of the bay. The post is exclusively +occupied by the North-West Company, the Hudson’s Bay Company having no +settlement to the northward of Great Slave Lake. We found Mr. Wentzel +and our interpreter Jean Baptiste Adam here with one of the Indian +guides: but the chief of the tribe and his hunters were encamped with +their families some miles from the fort in a good situation for +fishing. Our arrival was announced to him by a fire on the top of a +hill, and before night a messenger came to communicate his intention of +seeing us next morning. The customary present of tobacco and some other +articles was immediately sent to him. + +Mr. Wentzel prepared me for the first conference with the Indians by +mentioning all the information they had already given to him. The +duties allotted to this gentleman were the management of the Indians, +the superintendence of the Canadian voyagers, the obtaining and the +general distribution of the provision, and the issue of the other +stores. These services he was well qualified to perform, having been +accustomed to execute similar duties during a residence of upwards of +twenty years in this country. We also deemed Mr. Wentzel to be a great +acquisition to our party as a check on the interpreters, he being one +of the few traders who speak the Chipewyan language. + +As we were informed that external appearances made lasting impressions +on the Indians we prepared for the interview by decorating ourselves in +uniform and suspending a medal round each of our necks. Our tents had +been previously pitched and over one of them a silken union flag was +hoisted. Soon after noon on July 30th several Indian canoes were seen +advancing in a regular line and, on their approach, the chief was +discovered in the headmost which was paddled by two men. On landing at +the fort the chief assumed a very grave aspect and walked up to Mr. +Wentzel with a measured and dignified step, looking neither to the +right nor to the left at the persons who had assembled on the beach to +witness his debarkation, but preserving the same immovability of +countenance until he reached the hall and was introduced to the +officers. When he had smoked his pipe, drank a small portion of spirits +and water himself, and issued a glass to each of his companions, who +had seated themselves on the floor, he commenced his harangue by +mentioning the circumstances that led to his agreeing to accompany the +Expedition, an engagement which he was quite prepared to fulfil. He was +rejoiced he said to see such great chiefs on his lands; his tribe were +poor but they loved white men who had been their benefactors; and he +hoped that our visit would be productive of much good to them. The +report which preceded our arrival he said had caused much grief to him. +It was at first rumoured that a great medicine chief accompanied us who +was able to restore the dead to life; at this he rejoiced; the prospect +of again seeing his departed relatives had enlivened his spirits, but +his first communication with Mr. Wentzel had removed these vain hopes +and he felt as if his friends had a second time been torn from him. He +now wished to be informed exactly of the nature of our Expedition. + +In reply to this speech, which I understood had been prepared for many +days, I endeavoured to explain the objects of our mission in a manner +best calculated to ensure his exertions in our service. With this view +I told him that we were sent out by the greatest chief in the world who +was the sovereign also of the trading companies in the country; that he +was the friend of peace and had the interest of every nation at heart. +Having learned that his children in the north were much in want of +articles of merchandise, in consequence of the extreme length and +difficulty of the present route, he had sent us to search for a passage +by the sea which, if found, would enable large vessels to transport +great quantities of goods more easily to their lands. That we had not +come for the purpose of traffic but solely to make discoveries for +their benefit as well as that of every other people. That we had been +directed to inquire into the nature of all the productions of the +countries we might pass through and particularly respecting their +inhabitants. That we desired the assistance of the Indians in guiding +us and providing us with food; finally that we were most positively +enjoined by the great chief to recommend that hostilities should cease +throughout this country, and especially between the Indians and the +Esquimaux, whom he considered his children in common with other natives +and, by way of enforcing the latter point more strongly, I assured him +that a forfeiture of all the advantages which might be anticipated from +the Expedition would be a certain consequence if any quarrel arose +between his party and the Esquimaux. I also communicated to him that, +owing to the distance we had travelled, we had now few more stores than +was necessary for the use of our own party, a part of these, however, +should be forthwith presented to him; on his return he and his party +should be remunerated with cloth, ammunition, and tobacco, and some +useful iron materials, besides having their debts to the North-West +Company discharged. + +The chief whose name is Akaitcho or Big-foot replied by a renewal of +his assurances that he and his party would attend us to the end of our +journey, and that they would do their utmost to provide us with the +means of subsistence. He admitted that his tribe had made war upon the +Esquimaux but said they were now desirous of peace and unanimous in +their opinion as to the necessity of all who accompanied us abstaining +from every act of enmity against that nation. He added however that the +Esquimaux were very treacherous and therefore recommended that we +should advance towards them with caution. + +The communications which the chief and the guides then gave respecting +the route to the Copper-Mine River and its course to the sea coincided +in every material point with the statements which were made by Boileau +and Black Meat at Chipewyan, but they differed in their descriptions of +the coast. The information however, collected from both sources, was +very vague and unsatisfactory. None of his tribe had been more than +three days’ march along the sea-coast to the eastward of the river’s +mouth. + +As the water was unusually high this season the Indian guides +recommended our going by a shorter route to the Copper-Mine River than +that they had first proposed to Mr. Wentzel, and they assigned as a +reason for the change that the reindeer would be sooner found upon this +track. They then drew a chart of the proposed route on the floor with +charcoal, exhibiting a chain of twenty-five small lakes extending +towards the north, about one-half of them connected by a river which +flows into Slave Lake near Fort Providence. One of the guides named +Keskarrah drew the Copper-Mine River running through the Upper Lake in +a westerly direction towards the Great Bear Lake and then northerly to +the sea. The other guide drew the river in a straight line to the sea +from the above-mentioned place but, after some dispute, admitted the +correctness of the first delineation. The latter was elder brother to +Akaitcho and he said that he had accompanied Mr. Hearne on his journey +and, though very young at the time, still remembered many of the +circumstances and particularly the massacre committed by the Indians on +the Esquimaux. + +They pointed out another lake to the southward of the river, about +three days’ journey distant from it, on which the chief proposed the +next winter’s establishment should be formed as the reindeer would pass +there in the autumn and spring. Its waters contained fish and there was +a sufficiency of wood for building as well as for the winter’s +consumption. These were important considerations and determined me in +pursuing the route they now proposed. They could not inform us what +time we should take in reaching the lake until they saw our manner of +travelling in the large canoes, but they supposed we might be about +twenty days, in which case I entertained the hope that, if we could +then procure provision, we should have time to descend the Copper-Mine +River for a considerable distance, if not to the sea itself, and return +to the lake before the winter set in. + +It may here be proper to mention that it had been my original plan to +descend the Mackenzie’s River and to cross the Great Bear Lake, from +the eastern side of which, Boileau informed me, there is a +communication with the Copper-Mine River by four small lakes and +portages; but under our present circumstances this course could not be +followed because it would remove us too far from the establishments at +the Great Slave Lake to receive the supplies of ammunition and some +other stores in the winter which were absolutely necessary for the +prosecution of our journey, or to get the Esquimaux interpreter whom we +expected. If I had not deemed these circumstances paramount I should +have preferred the route by Bear Lake. + +Akaitcho and the guides having communicated all the information they +possessed on the different points to which our questions had been +directed I placed my medal round the neck of the chief, and the +officers presented theirs to an elder brother of his and the two +guides, communicating to them that these marks of distinction were +given as tokens of our friendship and as pledges of the sincerity of +our professions. Being conferred in the presence of all the hunters +their acquisition was highly gratifying to them, but they studiously +avoided any great expression of joy because such an exposure would have +been unbecoming the dignity which the senior Indians assume during a +conference. They assured us however of their being duly sensible of +these tokens of our regard and that they should be preserved during +their lives with the utmost care. The chief evinced much penetration +and intelligence during the whole of this conversation, which gave us a +favourable opinion of his intellectual powers. He made many inquiries +respecting the Discovery ships under the command of Captain Parry which +had been mentioned to him, and asked why a passage had not been +discovered long ago, if one existed. It may be stated that we gave a +faithful explanation to all his inquiries, which policy would have +prompted us to do if a love of truth had not; for whenever these +northern nations detect a falsehood in the dealings of the traders they +make it an unceasing subject of reproach, and their confidence is +irrecoverably lost. + +We presented to the chief, the two guides, and the seven hunters who +had engaged to accompany us some cloth, blankets, tobacco, knives, +daggers, besides other useful iron materials, and a gun to each; also a +keg of very weak spirits and water which they kept until the evening as +they had to try their guns before dark and make the necessary +preparations for commencing the journey on the morrow. They however did +not leave us so soon, as the chief was desirous of being present with +his party at the dance which was given in the evening to our Canadian +voyagers. They were highly entertained by the vivacity and agility +displayed by our companions in their singing and dancing, and +especially by their imitating the gestures of a Canadian who placed +himself in the most ludicrous postures and, whenever this was done, the +gravity of the chief gave way to violent bursts of laughter. In return +for the gratification Akaitcho had enjoyed he desired his young men to +exhibit the Dog-Rib Indian dance; and immediately they ranged +themselves in a circle and, keeping their legs widely separated, began +to jump simultaneously sideways; their bodies were bent, their hands +placed on their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjection tsa at +each jump. Devoid as were their attitudes of grace and their music of +harmony we were much amused by the novelty of the exhibition. + +In the midst of this scene an untoward accident occurred which for a +time interrupted our amusements. The tent, in which Dr. Richardson and +I lodged having caught fire from some embers that had been placed in it +to expel the mosquitoes, was entirely burnt. Hepburn, who was sleeping +within it close to some powder, most providentially awoke in time to +throw it clear of the flame and rescue the baggage before any material +injury had been received. We dreaded the consequences of this disaster +upon the fickle minds of the Indians and wished it not to be +communicated to them. The chief however was soon informed of it by one +of his people and expressed his desire that no future misfortune should +be concealed from him. We found that he was most concerned to hear that +the flag had been burnt, but we removed his anxiety on that point by +the assurance that it could easily be repaired. We were advised by Mr. +Wentzel to recommence the dancing after this event lest the Indians +should imagine, by our putting a stop to it, that we considered the +circumstance as an unfavourable commencement of our undertaking. We +were however deeply impressed with a grateful sense of the Divine +Providence in averting the threatened destruction of our stores, which +would have been fatal to every prospect of proceeding forward this +season. + +August 1. + +This morning the Indians set out, intending to wait for us at the mouth +of the Yellow-Knife River. We remained behind to pack our stores in +bales of eighty pounds each, an operation which could not be done in +the presence of these Indians as they are in the habit of begging for +everything they see. Our stores consisted of two barrels of gunpowder, +one hundred and forty pounds of ball and small shot, four +fowling-pieces, a few old trading guns, eight pistols, twenty-four +Indian daggers, some packages of knives, chisels, nails, and fastenings +for a boat; a few yards of cloth, some blankets, needles, +looking-glasses, and beads, together with nine fishing-nets, having +meshes of different sizes. Our provision was two casks of flour, two +hundred dried reindeer tongues, some dried moose-meat, portable soup, +and arrowroot, sufficient in the whole for ten days’ consumption, +besides two cases of chocolate, and two canisters of tea. We engaged +another Canadian voyager at this place and the Expedition then +consisted of twenty-eight persons, including the officers, and the +wives of three of our voyagers, who were brought for the purpose of +making shoes and clothes for the men at the winter establishment; there +were also three children belonging to two of these women.[18] + + [18] The following is the list of the officers and men who composed + the Expedition on its departure from Fort Providence: + +John Franklin, Lieutenant of the Royal Navy and Commander. +John Richardson, M.D., Surgeon of the Royal Navy. +Mr. George Back, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman. +Mr. Robert Hood, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman. +Mr. Frederick Wentzel, Clerk to the North-West Company. +John Hepburn, English seaman. + +CANADIAN VOYAGERS: + +Joseph Peltier, +Matthew Pelonquin, dit Crédit, +Solomon Belanger, +Joseph Benoit, +Joseph Gagné, +Pierre Dumas, +Joseph Forcier, +Ignace Perrault, +Francois Samandré, +Gabriel Beauparlant, +Vincenza Fontano, +Registe Vaillant, +Jean Baptiste Parent, +Jean Baptiste Belanger, +Jean Baptiste Belleau, +Emanuel Cournoyée, +Michel Teroahaute, an Iroquois. + +INTERPRETERS: + +Pierre St. Germain, +Jean Baptiste Adam, +Chipewyan Bois Brulés. + + +Our observations place Fort Providence in latitude 62° 17′ 19″ North, +longitude 114° 9′ 28″ West; the variation of the compass is 33° 35′ 55″ +East and the dip of the needle 86° 38′ 02″. It is distant from +Moose-Deer Island sixty-six geographic miles. This is the last +establishment of the traders in this direction, but the North-West +Company have two to the northward of it on the Mackenzie River. It has +been erected for the convenience of the Copper and Dog-Rib Indians who +generally bring such a quantity of reindeer meat that the residents are +enabled, out of their superabundance, to send annually some provision +to the fort at Moose-Deer Island. They also occasionally procure moose +and buffalo meat, but these animals are not numerous on this side of +the lake. Few furs are collected. _Les poissons inconnus_, trout, pike, +carp, and white-fish are very plentiful, and on these the residents +principally subsist. Their great supply of fish is procured in the +latter part of September and the beginning of October, but there are a +few taken daily in the nets during the winter. The surrounding country +consists almost entirely of coarse-grained granite, frequently +enclosing large masses of reddish felspar. These rocks form hills which +attain an elevation of three hundred or four hundred feet about a mile +behind the house; their surface is generally naked but in the valleys +between them grow a few spruce, aspen, and birch trees, together with a +variety of shrubs and berry-bearing plants. + +On the afternoon of the 2nd of August we commenced our journey, having, +in addition to our three canoes, a smaller one to convey the women; we +were all in high spirits, being heartily glad that the time had at +length arrived when our course was to be directed towards the +Copper-Mine River and through a line of country which had not been +previously visited by any European. We proceeded to the northward along +the eastern side of a deep bay of the lake, passing through various +channels formed by an assemblage of rocky islands; and at sunset +encamped on a projecting point of the north main shore eight miles from +Fort Providence. To the westward of this arm, or bay of the lake, there +is another deep bay that receives the waters of a river which +communicates with Great Marten Lake where the North-West Company had +once a post established. The eastern shores of the Great Slave Lake are +very imperfectly known: none of the traders have visited them and the +Indians give such loose and unsatisfactory accounts that no estimation +can be formed of its extent in that direction. These men say there is a +communication from its eastern extremity by a chain of lakes with a +shallow river which discharges its waters into the sea. This stream +they call the Thloueetessy, and report it to be navigable for Indian +canoes only. The forms of the south and western shores are better known +from the survey of Sir Alexander Mackenzie and in consequence of the +canoes having to pass and repass along these borders annually between +Moose-Deer Island and Mackenzie’s River. Our observations made the +breadth of the lake between Stony Island and the north main shore sixty +miles less than it is laid down in Arrowsmith’s map; and there is also +a considerable difference in the longitude of the eastern side of the +bay, which we entered. + +This lake, owing to its great depth, is seldom completely frozen over +before the last week in November and the ice, which is generally seven +feet thick, breaks up about the middle of June, three weeks later than +that of the Slave River. The only known outlet to this vast body of +water which receives so many streams on its north and south shores is +the Mackenzie River. + +August 3. + +We embarked at three A.M. and proceeded to the entrance of the +Yellow-Knife River of the traders, which is called by the natives +Begholodessy or River of the Toothless Fish. We found Akaitcho and the +hunters with their families encamped here. There were also several +other Indians of his tribe who intended to accompany us some distance +into the interior. This party was quickly in motion after our arrival +and we were soon surrounded by a fleet of seventeen Indian canoes. In +company with them we paddled up the river, which is one hundred and +fifty yards wide, and in an hour came to a cascade of five feet where +we were compelled to make a portage of one hundred and fifty-eight +yards. We next crossed a dilatation of the river, about six miles in +length, upon which the name of Lake Prosperous was bestowed. Its +shores, though scantily supplied with wood, are very picturesque. + +Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his slave, a young man of the +Dog-Rib nation whom he had taken by force from his friends; when he +thought himself however out of reach of our observation he laid aside a +good deal of his state and assisted in the labour; and after a few +days’ further acquaintance with us he did not hesitate to paddle in our +presence or even carry his canoe on the portages. Several of the canoes +were managed by women who proved to be noisy companions, for they +quarrelled frequently, and the weakest was generally profuse in her +lamentations, which were not at all diminished when the husband +attempted to settle the difference by a few blows from his paddle. + +An observation near the centre of the lake gave 114° 13′ 39″ West and +33° 8′ 06″ East variation. + +Leaving the lake we ascended a very strong rapid and arrived at a range +of three steep cascades situated in the bend of the river. Here we made +a portage of one thousand three hundred yards over a rocky hill which +received the name of the Bowstring Portage from its shape. We found +that the Indians had greatly the advantage of us in this operation; the +men carried their small canoes, the women and children the clothes and +provisions, and at the end of the portage they were ready to embark, +whilst it was necessary for our people to return four times before they +could transport the weighty cargo with which we were burdened. After +passing through another expansion of the river and over the Steep +Portage of one hundred and fifteen yards we encamped on a small rocky +isle, just large enough to hold our party, and the Indians took +possession of an adjoining rock. We were now thirty miles from Fort +Providence. + +As soon as the tents were pitched the officers and men were divided +into watches for the night, a precaution intended to be taken +throughout the journey, not merely to prevent our being surprised by +strangers but also to show our companions that we were constantly on +our guard. The chief, who suffered nothing to escape his observation, +remarked that he should sleep without anxiety among the Esquimaux for +he perceived no enemy could surprise us. + +After supper we retired to rest but our sleep was soon interrupted by +the Indians joining in loud lamentations over a sick child whom they +supposed to be dying. Dr. Richardson however immediately went to the +boy and administered some medicine which relieved his pain and put a +stop to their mourning. The temperatures this day were at four A.M. +54°, three P.M. 72°, at seven P.M. 65°. + +On the 4th we crossed a small lake and passed in succession over the +Blueberry Cascade and Double Fall Portages where the river falls over +ridges of rocks that completely obstruct the passages for canoes. We +came to three strong rapids beyond these barriers, which were +surmounted by the aid of the poles and lines, and then to a bend of the +river in which the cascades were so frequent that to avoid them we +carried the canoes into a chain of small lakes. We entered them by a +portage of nine hundred and fifty paces, and during the afternoon +traversed three other grassy lakes and encamped on the banks of the +river, at the end of the Yellow-Knife Portage, of three hundred and +fifty paces. This day’s work was very laborious to our men. Akaitcho +however had directed his party to assist them in carrying their burdens +on the portages, which they did cheerfully. This morning Mr. Back +caught several fish with a fly, a method of fishing entirely new to the +Indians, and they were not more delighted than astonished at his skill +and success. The extremes of temperature today were 54 and 65°. + +SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS, AND DISCONTENT OF THE CANADIAN VOYAGERS. + + +On August 5th we continued the ascent of the river, which varied much +in breadth, as did the current in rapidity. It flows between high rocky +banks on which there is sufficient soil to support pines, birch, and +poplars. Five portages were crossed, then the Rocky Lake, and we +finished our labours at the end of the sixth portage. The issue of +dried meat for breakfast this morning had exhausted all our stock, and +no other provision remained but the portable soups and a few pounds of +preserved meat. At the recommendation of Akaitcho the hunters were +furnished with ammunition and desired to go forward as speedily as +possible to the part where the reindeer were expected to be found, and +to return to us with any provision they could procure. He also assured +us that in our advance towards them we should come to some lakes +abounding in fish. Many of the Indians, being likewise in distress for +food, decided on separating from us and going on at a quicker pace than +we could travel. + +Akaitcho himself was always furnished with a portion at our meals as a +token of regard which the traders have taught the chiefs to expect and +which we willingly paid. + +The next morning we crossed a small lake and a portage before we +entered the river; shortly afterwards the canoes and cargoes were +carried a mile along its banks to avoid three very strong rapids, and +over another portage into a narrow lake; we encamped on an island in +the middle of it to set the nets; but they only yielded a few fish and +we had a very scanty supper as it was necessary to deal out our +provision sparingly. The longitude 114° 27′ 03″ West and variation 33° +00′ 04″ East were observed. + +We had the mortification of finding the nets entirely empty next +morning, an untoward circumstance that discouraged our voyagers very +much; and they complained of being unable to support the fatigue to +which they were daily exposed on their present scanty fare. We had seen +with regret that the portages were more frequent as we advanced to the +northward and feared that their strength would fail if provision were +not soon obtained. We embarked at six, proceeded to the head of the +lake, and crossed a portage of two thousand five hundred paces leading +over ridges of sandhills which nourished pines of a larger size than we +had lately seen. This conducted us to Mossy Lake whence we regained the +river after traversing another portage. The Birch and Poplar Portages +next followed, and beyond these we came to a part where the river takes +a great circuit and its course is interrupted by several heavy falls. +The guide therefore advised us to quit it and proceed through a chain +of nine lakes extending to the north-east which we did and encamped on +Icy Portage where the nets were set. The bottom of the valley through +which the track across this portage led was covered with ice four or +five feet thick, the remains of a large iceberg which is annually +formed there by the snow drifting into the valley and becoming +consolidated into ice by the overflowing of some springs that are warm +enough to resist the winter’s cold. The latitude is 63° 22′ 15″ North, +longitude 114° 15′ 30″ West. + +We were alarmed in the night by our fire communicating to the dry moss +which, spreading by the force of a strong wind, encircled the +encampment and threatened destruction to our canoes and baggage. The +watch immediately aroused all the men who quickly removed whatever +could be injured to a distant part and afterwards succeeded in +extinguishing the flame. + +August 8. + +During this day we crossed five portages, passing over a very bad road. +The men were quite exhausted with fatigue by five P.M. when we were +obliged to encamp on the borders of the fifth lake, in which the +fishing-nets were set. We began this evening to issue some portable +soup and arrowroot which our companions relished very much; but this +food is too unsubstantial to support their vigour under their daily +exhausting labour, and we could not furnish them with a sufficient +quantity even of this to satisfy their desires. We commenced our +labours on the next day in a very wet uncomfortable state as it had +rained through the night until four A.M. The fifth grassy lake was +crossed and four others, with their intervening portages, and we +returned to the river by a portage of one thousand four hundred and +fifteen paces. The width of the stream here is about one hundred yards, +its banks are moderately high and scantily covered with wood. We +afterwards twice carried the cargoes along its banks to avoid a very +stony rapid and then crossed the first Carp Portage in longitude 114° +2′ 01″ West, variation of the compass 32° 30′ 40″ East, and encamped on +the borders of Lower Carp Lake. + +The chief having told us that this was a good lake for fishing we +determined on halting for a day or two to recruit our men, of whom +three were lame and several others had swelled legs. The chief himself +went forward to look after the hunters and promised to make a fire as a +signal if they had killed any reindeer. All the Indians had left us in +the course of yesterday and today to seek these animals except the +guide Keskarrah. + +August 10. + +The nets furnishing only four carp we embarked for the purpose of +searching for a better spot and encamped again on the shores of the +same lake. The spirits of the men were much revived by seeing some +recent traces of reindeer at this place, which circumstance caused them +to cherish the hope of soon getting a supply of meat from the hunters. +They were also gratified by finding abundance of blueberries near the +encampment, which made an agreeable and substantial addition to their +otherwise scanty fare. We were teased by sandflies this evening +although the thermometer did not rise above 45°. The country through +which we had travelled for some days consists principally of granite, +intermixed in some spots with mica-slate, often passing into +clay-slate. But the borders of Lower Carp Lake where the gneiss +formation prevails are composed of hills having less altitude, fewer +precipices, and more rounded summits. The valleys are less fertile, +containing a gravelly soil and fewer trees, so that the country has +throughout a more barren aspect. + +August 11. + +Having caught sufficient trout, white-fish, and carp yesterday and this +morning to afford the party two hearty meals, and the men having +recovered from their fatigue, we proceeded on our journey, crossed the +Upper Carp Portage, and embarked on the lake of that name where we had +the gratification of paddling for ten miles. We put up at its +termination to fish by the advice of our guide and the following +observations were then taken: longitude 113° 46′ 35″ West, variation of +the compass 36° 45′ 30″ East, dip 87° 11′ 48″. At this place we first +perceived the north end of our dipping-needle to pass the perpendicular +line when the instrument was faced to the west. + +We had scarcely quitted the encampment next day before an Indian met us +with the agreeable communication that the hunters had made several +fires which were certain indications of their having killed reindeer. +This intelligence inspired our companions with fresh energy and they +quickly traversed the next portage and paddled through the Reindeer +Lake; at the north side of it we found the canoes of our hunters and +learned from our guide that the Indians usually leave their canoes here +as the water communication on their hunting grounds is bad. The +Yellow-Knife River had now dwindled into an insignificant rivulet and +we could not trace it beyond the next lake except as a mere brook. The +latitude of its source 64° 1′ 30″ North, longitude 113° 36′ 00″ West, +and its length is one hundred and fifty-six statute miles. Though this +river is of sufficient breadth and depth for navigating in canoes yet I +conceive its course is too much interrupted by cascades and rapids for +its ever being used as a channel for the conveyance of merchandise. +Whilst the crews were employed in making a portage over the foot of +Prospect Hill we ascended to the top of it and, as it is the highest +ground in the neighbourhood, its summit, which is about five hundred +feet above the water, commands an extensive view. + +Akaitcho who was here with his family pointed out to us the smoke of +the distant fires which the hunters had made. The prospect is agreeably +diversified by an intermixture of hill and valley and the appearance of +twelve lakes in different directions. On the borders of these lakes a +few thin pine groves occur, but the country in general is destitute of +almost every vegetable except a few berry-bearing shrubs and lichens, +and has a very barren aspect. The hills are composed of gneiss but +their acclivities are covered with a coarse gravelly soil. There are +many large loose stones both on their sides and summits composed of the +same materials as the solid rock. + +We crossed another lake in the evening, encamped and set the nets. The +chief made a large fire to announce our situation to the hunters. + +DIFFICULTIES WITH REGARD TO THE INDIAN GUIDES. REFUSAL TO PROCEED. + + +August 13. + +We caught twenty fish this morning but they were small and furnished +but a scanty breakfast for the party. Whilst this meal was preparing +our Canadian voyagers, who had been for some days past murmuring at +their meagre diet and striving to get the whole of our little provision +to consume at once, broke out into open discontent, and several of them +threatened they would not proceed forward unless more food was given to +them. This conduct was the more unpardonable as they saw we were +rapidly approaching the fires of the hunters and that provision might +soon be expected. I therefore felt the duty incumbent on me to address +them in the strongest manner on the danger of insubordination and to +assure them of my determination to inflict the heaviest punishment on +any that should persist in their refusal to go on, or in any other way +attempt to retard the Expedition. I considered this decisive step +necessary, having learned from the gentlemen most intimately acquainted +with the character of the Canadian voyagers that they invariably try +how far they can impose upon every new master and that they will +continue to be disobedient and intractable if they once gain any +ascendancy over him. I must admit however that the present hardships of +our companions were of a kind which few could support without +murmuring, and no one could witness without a sincere pity for their +sufferings. + +After this discussion we went forward until sunset. In the course of +the day we crossed seven lakes and as many portages. Just as we had +encamped we were delighted to see four of the hunters arrive with the +flesh of two reindeer. This seasonable supply, though only sufficient +for this evening’s and the next day’s consumption, instantly revived +the spirits of our companions and they immediately forgot all their +cares. As we did not after this period experience any deficiency of +food during this journey they worked extremely well and never again +reflected upon us as they had done before for rashly bringing them into +an inhospitable country where the means of subsistence could not be +procured. + +Several blue fish resembling the grayling were caught in a stream which +flows out of Hunter’s Lake. It is remarkable for the largeness of the +dorsal fin and the beauty of its colours. + +August 14. + +Having crossed the Hunter’s Portage we entered the Lake of the same +name in latitude 64° 6′ 47″ North, longitude 113° 25′ 00″ West; but +soon quitted it by desire of the Indian guide and diverged more to the +eastward that we might get into the line upon which our hunters had +gone. This was the only consideration that could have induced us to +remove to a chain of small lakes connected by long portages. We crossed +three of these and then were obliged to encamp to rest the men. The +country is bare of wood except a few dwarf birch bushes which grow near +the borders of the lakes, and here and there a few stunted pines, and +our fuel principally consisted of the roots of decayed pines which we +had some difficulty to collect in sufficient quantity for cooking. When +this material is wanting the reindeer lichen and other mosses that grow +in profusion on the gravelly acclivities of the hills are used as +substitutes. Three more of the hunters arrived with meat this evening +which supply came very opportunely as our nets were unproductive. At +eight P.M. a faint Aurora Borealis appeared to the southward, the night +was cold, the wind strong from North-West. + +We were detained some time in the following morning before the +fishing-nets, which had sunk in the night, could be recovered. + +After starting we first crossed the Orkney Lake, then a portage which +brought us to Sandy Lake and here we missed one of our barrels of +powder which the steersman of the canoe then recollected had been left +the day before. He and two other men were sent back to search for it in +the small canoe. The rest of the party proceeded to the portage on the +north side of the Grizzly-Bear Lake, where the hunters had made a +deposit of meat, and there encamped to await their return which +happened at nine P.M. with the powder. We perceived from the direction +of this lake that considerable labour would have been spared if we had +continued our course yesterday, instead of striking off at the guide’s +suggestion, as the bottom of this lake cannot be far separated from +either Hunter’s Lake or the one to the westward of it. The chief and +all the Indians went off to hunt accompanied by Pierre St. Germain the +interpreter. They returned at night bringing some meat and reported +that they had put the carcasses of several reindeer _en cache_. These +were sent for early next morning and, as the weather was unusually +warm, the thermometer at noon being 77°, we remained stationary all day +that the women might prepare the meat for keeping by stripping the +flesh from the bones and drying it in the sun over a slow fire. The +hunters were again successful and by the evening we had collected the +carcasses of seventeen deer. As this was a sufficient store to serve us +until we arrived at Winter Lake the chief proposed that he and his +hunters should proceed to that place and collect some provision against +our arrival. He also requested that we would allow him to be absent ten +days to provide his family with clothing as the skin of the reindeer is +unfit for that purpose after the month of September. We could not +refuse to grant such a reasonable request but caused St. Germain to +accompany him that his absence might not exceed the appointed time. +Previous to his departure the chief warned us to be constantly on our +guard against the grizzly bears which he described as being numerous in +this vicinity and very ferocious; one had been seen this day by an +Indian, to which circumstance the lake owes its appellation. We +afterwards learned that the only bear in this part of the country is +the brown bear and that this by no means possesses the ferocity which +the Indians, with their usual love of exaggeration, ascribe to it. The +fierce grizzly bear which frequents the sources of the Missouri is not +found on the barren grounds. + +The shores of this lake and the neighbouring hills are principally +composed of sand and gravel; they are much varied in their outline and +present some picturesque scenery. + +The following observations were taken here: latitude 64° 15′ 17″ North, +longitude 113° 2′ 39″ West; variation of the compass 36° 50′ 47″ East; +and dip of the needle 87° 20′ 35″. + +On August the 17th, having finished drying the meat which had been +retarded by the heavy showers of rain that fell in the morning, we +embarked at one P.M. and crossed two lakes and two portages. The last +of these was two thousand and sixty-six paces long and very rugged so +that the men were much fatigued. On the next day we received the flesh +of four reindeer by the small canoe which had been sent for it and +heard that the hunters had killed several more deer on our route. We +saw many of these animals as we passed along; and our companions, +delighted with the prospect of having food in abundance, now began to +accompany their paddling with singing, which they had discontinued ever +since our provisions became scarce. We passed from one small lake to +another over four portages, then crossed a lake about six miles in +diameter and encamped on its border where, finding pines, we enjoyed +the luxury of a good fire, which we had not done for some days. At ten +P.M. the Aurora Borealis appeared very brilliant in an arch across the +zenith from north-west to south-east which afterwards gave place to a +beautiful corona borealis. + +August 19. + +After crossing a portage of five hundred and ninety-five paces, a small +lake and another portage of two thousand paces, which occupied the +crews seven hours, we embarked on a small stream running towards the +north-west which carried us to the lake where Akaitcho proposed that we +should pass the winter. The officers ascended several of the loftiest +hills in the course of the day, prompted by a natural anxiety to +examine the spot which was to be their residence for many months. The +prospect however was not then the most agreeable as the borders of the +lake seemed to be scantily furnished with wood and that of a kind too +small for the purposes of building. + +We perceived the smoke of a distant fire which the Indians suppose had +been made by some of the Dog-Ribbed tribe who occasionally visit this +part of the country. + +Embarking at seven next morning we paddled to the western extremity of +the lake and there found a small river which flows out of it to the +South-West. To avoid a strong rapid at its commencement we made a +portage and then crossed to the north bank of the river where the +Indians recommended that the winter establishment should be erected, +and we soon found that the situation they had chosen possessed all the +advantages we could desire. The trees were numerous and of a far +greater size than we had supposed them to be in a distant view, some of +the pines being thirty or forty feet high and two feet in diameter at +the root. We determined on placing the house on the summit of the bank +which commands a beautiful prospect of the surrounding country. The +view in the front is bounded at the distance of three miles by +round-backed hills; to the eastward and westward lie the Winter and +Round-rock Lakes which are connected by the Winter River whose banks +are well clothed with pines and ornamented with a profusion of mosses, +lichens, and shrubs. + +In the afternoon we read divine service and offered our thanksgiving to +the Almighty for His goodness in having brought us thus far on our +journey; a duty which we never neglected when stationary on the +Sabbath. + +The united length of the portages we had crossed since leaving Fort +Providence is twenty-one statute miles and a half and, as our men had +to traverse each portage four times, with a load of one hundred and +eighty pounds, and return three times light, they walked in the whole +upwards of one hundred and fifty miles. The total length of our voyage +from Chipewyan is five hundred and fifty-three miles.[19] + + [19] Stony and Slave Rivers: 260 statute miles. +Slave Lake: 107 statute miles. +Yellow-Knife River: 156.5 statute miles. +Barren country between the source of the Yellow-Knife River and Fort +Enterprise: 29.5 statute miles. +Total: 553 statute miles. + + +A fire was made on the south side of the river to inform the chief of +our arrival, which, spreading before a strong wind, caught the whole +wood, and we were completely enveloped in a cloud of smoke for the +three following days. + +On the next morning our voyagers were divided into two parties, the one +to cut the wood for the building of a storehouse and the other to fetch +the meat as the hunters procured it. An interpreter was sent with +Keskarrah the guide to search for the Indians who had made the fire +seen on Saturday, from whom we might obtain some supplies of provision. +An Indian was also despatched to Akaitcho with directions for him to +come to this place directly and bring whatever provision he had as we +were desirous of proceeding without delay to the Copper-Mine River. In +the evening our men brought in the carcasses of seven reindeer which +two hunters had shot yesterday and the women commenced drying the meat +for our journey. We also obtained a good supply of fish from our nets +today. + +A heavy rain on the 23rd prevented the men from working either at the +building or going for meat; but on the next day the weather was fine +and they renewed their labours. The thermometer that day did not rise +higher than 42° and it fell to 31° before midnight. On the morning of +the 25th we were surprised by some early symptoms of the approach of +winter; the small pools were frozen over and a flock of geese passed to +the southward. In the afternoon however a fog came on which afterwards +changed into rain and the ice quickly disappeared. We suffered great +anxiety all the next day respecting John Hepburn who had gone to hunt +before sunrise on the 25th and had been absent ever since. About four +hours after his departure the wind changed and a dense fog obscured +every mark by which his course to the tents could be directed, and we +thought it probable he had been wandering in an opposite direction to +our situation as the two hunters who had been sent to look for him +returned at sunset without having seen him. Akaitcho arrived with his +party and we were greatly disappointed at finding they had stored up +only fifteen reindeer for us. St. Germain informed us that, having +heard of the death of the chief’s brother-in-law, they had spent +several days in bewailing his loss instead of hunting. We learned also +that the decease of this man had caused another party of the tribe, who +had been sent by Mr. Wentzel to prepare provision for us on the banks +of the Copper-Mine River, to remove to the shores of the Great Bear +Lake, distant from our proposed route. Mortifying as these +circumstances were they produced less painful sensations than we +experienced in the evening by the refusal of Akaitcho to accompany us +in the proposed descent of the Copper-Mine River. When Mr. Wentzel, by +my direction, communicated to him my intention of proceeding at once on +that service he desired a conference with me upon the subject which, +being immediately granted, he began by stating that the very attempt +would be rash and dangerous as the weather was cold, the leaves were +falling, some geese had passed to the southward, and the winter would +shortly set in and that, as he considered the lives of all who went on +such a journey would be forfeited, he neither would go himself nor +permit his hunters to accompany us. He said there was no wood within +eleven days’ march, during which time we could not have any fire as the +moss which the Indians use in their summer excursions would be too wet +for burning in consequence of the recent rains; that we should be forty +days in descending the Copper-Mine River, six of which would be +expended in getting to its banks, and that we might be blocked up by +the ice in the next moon; and during the whole journey the party must +experience great sufferings for want of food as the reindeer had +already left the river. + +He was now reminded that these statements were very different from the +account he had given both at Fort Providence and on the route hither; +and that up to this moment we had been encouraged by his conversation +to expect that the party might descend the Copper-Mine River +accompanied by the Indians. He replied that at the former place he had +been unacquainted with our slow mode of travelling and that the +alteration in his opinion arose from the advance of winter. + +We now informed him that we were provided with instruments by which we +could ascertain the state of the air and water and that we did not +imagine the winter to be so near as he supposed; however we promised to +return on discovering the first change in the season. He was also told +that, all the baggage being left behind, our canoes would now of course +travel infinitely more expeditiously than anything he had hitherto +witnessed. Akaitcho appeared to feel hurt that we should continue to +press the matter further and answered with some warmth: “Well, I have +said everything I can urge to dissuade you from going on this service +on which it seems you wish to sacrifice your own lives as well as the +Indians who might attend you: however if after all I have said you are +determined to go some of my young men shall join the party because it +shall not be said that we permitted you to die alone after having +brought you hither; but from the moment they embark in the canoes I and +my relatives shall lament them as dead.” + +We could only reply to this forcible appeal by assuring him and the +Indians who were seated around him that we felt the most anxious +solicitude for the safety of every individual and that it was far from +our intention to proceed without considering every argument for and +against the proposed journey. + +We next informed him that it would be very desirable to see the river +at any rate, that we might give some positive information about its +situation and size in our next letters to the Great Chief; and that we +were very anxious to get on its banks for the purpose of observing an +eclipse of the sun which we described to him and said would happen in a +few days. He received this communication with more temper than the +preceding, though he immediately assigned as a reason for his declining +to go that “the Indians must now procure a sufficient quantity of +deer-skins for winter clothing for themselves, and dresses for the +Canadians who would need them if they had to travel in the winter.” +Finding him so averse to proceed and feeling at the same time how +essential his continuance with us was, not only to our future success +but even to our existence during the winter, I closed the conversation +here, intending to propose to him next morning some modification of the +plan which might meet his approbation. Soon after we were gone however +he informed Mr. Wentzel, with whom he was in the habit of speaking +confidentially, that, as his advice was neglected, his presence was +useless and he should therefore return to Fort Providence with his +hunters after he had collected some winter provision for us. Mr. +Wentzel having reported this to me the night was passed in great +anxiety and, after weighing all the arguments that presented themselves +to my mind, I came reluctantly to the determination of relinquishing +the intention of going any distance down the river this season. I had +considered that, could we ascertain what were the impediments to the +navigation of the Copper-Mine River, what wood grew on its banks, if +fit for boat building, and whether drift timber existed where the +country was naked, our operations next season would be much +facilitated; but we had also cherished the hope of reaching the sea +this year for the Indians in their conversations with us had only +spoken of two great rapids as likely to obstruct us. This was a hope +extremely painful to give up for, in the event of success, we should +have ascertained whether the sea was clear of ice and navigable for +canoes, have learned the disposition of the Esquimaux, and might have +obtained other information that would have had great influence on our +future proceedings. + +I must confess however that my opinion of the probability of our being +able to attain so great a desideratum this season had been somewhat +altered by the recent changes in the weather although, had the chief +been willing to accompany us with his party, I should have made the +attempt, with the intention however of returning immediately upon the +first decided appearance of winter. + +On the morning of August 27th, having communicated my sentiments to the +officers on the subject of the conference last evening, they all agreed +that the descent to the sea this season could not be attempted without +hazarding a complete rupture with the Indians; but they thought that a +party should be sent to ascertain the distance and size of the +Copper-Mine River. These opinions being in conformity with my own I +determined on despatching Messrs. Back and Hood on that service in a +light canoe as soon as possible. + +We witnessed this morning an instance of the versatility of our Indian +companions which gave us much uneasiness as it regarded the safety of +our faithful attendant Hepburn. When they heard on their arrival last +night of his having been so long absent they expressed the greatest +solicitude about him, and the whole party immediately volunteered to go +in search of him as soon as daylight permitted. Their resolutions +however seem to have been changed in consequence of the subsequent +conversation we had with the chief, and we found all of them indisposed +to proceed on that errand this morning; and it was only by much +entreaty that three of the hunters and a boy were prevailed upon to go. +They fortunately succeeded in their search and we were infinitely +rejoiced to see Hepburn return with them in the afternoon, though much +jaded by the fatigue he had undergone. He had got bewildered, as we had +conjectured, in the foggy weather on the 25th, and had been wandering +about ever since except during half an hour that he slept yesterday. He +had eaten only a partridge and some berries for his anxiety of mind had +deprived him of appetite; and of a deer which he had shot he took only +the tongue, and the skin to protect himself from the wind and rain. +This anxiety we learned from him was occasioned by the fear that the +party which was about to descend the Copper-Mine River might be +detained until he was found, or that it might have departed without +him. He did not entertain any dread of the white bears of whose numbers +and ferocious attacks the Indians had been constantly speaking since we +had entered the barren grounds. Our fears for his safety however were +in a considerable degree excited by the accounts we had received of +these animals. Having made a hearty supper he retired to rest, slept +soundly, and arose next morning in perfect health. + +On the 28th of August Akaitcho was informed of our intention to send a +party to the river and of the reasons for doing so, of which he +approved when he found that I had relinquished the idea of going +myself, in compliance with the desire which he and the Indians had +expressed; and he immediately said two of the hunters should go to +provide them with food on the journey and to serve as guides. During +this conversation we gathered from him for the first time that there +might still be some of his tribe near to the river from whom the party +could get provision. Our next object was to despatch the Indians to +their hunting-ground to collect provision for us, and to procure the +fat of the deer for our use during the winter, and for making the +pemmican we should require in the spring. They were therefore furnished +with some ammunition, clothing, and other necessary articles, and +directed to take their departure as soon as possible. + +Akaitcho came into our tent this evening at supper and made several +pertinent inquiries respecting the eclipse of which we had spoken last +night. He desired to know the effect that would be produced and the +cause of it, which we endeavoured to explain and, having gained this +information, he sent for several of his companions that they might also +have it repeated to them. They were most astonished at our knowing the +time at which this event should happen and remarked that this knowledge +was a striking proof of the superiority of the whites over the Indians. +We took advantage of this occasion to speak to them respecting the +Supreme Being, who ordered all the operations of nature, and to impress +on their minds the necessity of paying strict attention to their moral +duties, in obedience to His will. They readily assented to all these +points and Akaitcho assured us that both himself and his young men +would exert themselves in obtaining provision for us in return for the +interesting communications we had just made to them. + +Having received a supply of dried meat from the Indian lodges we were +enabled to equip the party for the Copper-Mine River, and at nine A.M. +on the 29th Mr. Back and Mr. Hood embarked on that service in a light +canoe with St. Germain, eight Canadians, and one Indian. We could not +furnish them with more than eight days’ provision which, with their +blankets, two tents, and a few instruments, composed their lading. Mr. +Back, who had charge of the party, was directed to proceed to the river +and, if when he arrived at its banks the weather should continue to be +mild and the temperature of the water was not lower than 40 degrees, he +might embark and descend the stream for a few days to gain some +knowledge of its course, but he was not to go so far as to risk his +being able to return to this place in a fortnight with the canoe. But +if the weather should be severe and the temperature of the water below +40° he was not to embark but return immediately and endeavour to +ascertain the best track for our goods to be conveyed thither next +spring. + +We had seen that the water decreases rapidly in temperature at this +season and I feared that if he embarked to descend the river when it +was below 40° the canoe might be frozen in and the crew have to walk +back in very severe weather. + +As soon as the canoe had started Akaitcho and the Indians took their +departure also, except two of the hunters who stayed behind to kill +deer in our neighbourhood, and old Keskarrah and his family who +remained as our guests. + +The fishing-nets were this day transferred from the river in which they +had been set since our arrival to Winter Lake, whither the fish had +removed, and the fishermen built a log-hut on its borders to reside in +that they might attend more closely to their occupation. + +The month of September commenced with very disagreeable weather. The +temperature of the atmosphere ranged between 39 and 31° during the +first three days, and that of the water in the river decreased from 49 +to 44°. Several reindeer and a large flight of white geese passed to +the southward. These circumstances led us to fear for the comfort, if +not for the safety, of our absent friends. On the 4th of September we +commenced building our dwelling-house, having cut sufficient wood for +the frame of it. + +In the afternoon of September the 6th we removed our tent to the summit +of a hill about three miles distant for the better observing the +eclipse, which was calculated to occur on the next morning. We were +prevented however from witnessing it by a heavy snow-storm, and the +only observation we could then make was to examine whether the +temperature of the atmosphere altered during the eclipse, but we found +that both the mercurial and spirit thermometers remained steadily at +30° for a quarter of an hour previous to its commencement, during its +continuance, and for half an hour subsequent to its termination; we +remarked the wind increased very much and the snow fell in heavier +flakes just after the estimated time of its commencement. This +boisterous weather continued until three P.M. when the wind abated and +the snow changed to rain. + +VISIT OF OBSERVATION TO THE UPPER PART OF COPPER-MINE RIVER. + + +As there was now no immediate occasion for my remaining on the spot, +the eclipse being over and the Indians having removed to their hunting +grounds, Dr. Richardson and I determined on taking a pedestrian +excursion to the Copper-Mine River, leaving Mr. Wentzel in charge of +the men and to superintend the buildings. On the morning of September +the 9th we commenced our journey under the guidance of old Keskarrah, +and accompanied by John Hepburn and Samandré, who carried our blankets, +cooking utensils, hatchets, and a small supply of dried meat. Our guide +led us from the top of one hill to the top of another, making as +straight a course to the northward as the numerous lakes with which the +country is intersected, would permit. At noon we reached a remarkable +hill with precipitous sides, named by the Copper Indians the Dog-Rib +Rock, and its latitude, 64° 34′ 52″ South, was obtained. The +canoe-track passes to the eastward of this rock but we kept to the +westward as being the more direct course. From the time we quitted the +banks of the Winter River we saw only a few detached clumps of trees; +but after we passed the Dog-Rib Rock even these disappeared and we +travelled through a naked country. In the course of the afternoon +Keskarrah killed a reindeer and loaded himself with its head and skin, +and our men also carried off a few pounds of its flesh for supper; but +their loads were altogether too great to permit them to take much +additional weight. Keskarrah offered to us as a great treat the raw +marrow from the hind legs of the animal, of which all the party ate +except myself and thought it very good. I was also of the same opinion +when I subsequently conquered my then too fastidious taste. We halted +for the night on the borders of a small lake which washed the base of a +ridge of sandhills about three hundred feet high, having walked in +direct distance sixteen miles. + +There were four ancient pine-trees here which did not exceed six or +seven feet in height but whose branches spread themselves out for +several yards and we gladly cropped a few twigs to make a bed and to +protect us from the frozen ground, still white from a fall of snow +which took place in the afternoon. We were about to cut down one of +these trees for firewood but our guide solicited us to spare them and +made us understand by signs that they had been long serviceable to his +nation and that we ought to content ourselves with a few of the smaller +branches. As soon as we comprehended his request we complied with it +and our attendants, having with some trouble grubbed up a sufficient +quantity of roots of the dwarf birch to make a fire, we were enabled to +prepare a comfortable supper of reindeer’s meat which we despatched +with the appetites which travelling in this country never fails to +ensure. We then stretched ourselves out on the pine brush and, covered +by a single blanket, enjoyed a night of sound repose. The small +quantity of bed-clothes we carried induced us to sleep without +undressing. Old Keskarrah followed a different plan; he stripped +himself to the skin and, having toasted his body for a short time over +the embers of the fire, he crept under his deer-skin and rags, +previously spread out as smoothly as possible and, coiling himself up +in a circular form, fell asleep instantly. This custom of undressing to +the skin even when lying in the open air is common to all the Indian +tribes. The thermometer at sunset stood at 29°. + +Resuming our journey next morning we pursued a northerly course but had +to make a considerable circuit round the western ends of two lakes +whose eastern extremities were hidden from our view. The march was very +uncomfortable as the wind was cold and there was a constant fall of +snow until noon; our guide too persisted in taking us over the summit +of every hill that lay in the route so that we had the full benefit of +the breeze. + +We forded two streams in the afternoon flowing between small lakes and, +being wet, did not much relish having to halt whilst Keskarrah pursued +a herd of reindeer; but there was no alternative as he set off and +followed them without consulting our wishes. The old man loaded himself +with the skin and some meat of the animal he killed in addition to his +former burden; but after walking two miles, finding his charge too +heavy for his strength, he spread the skin on the rock and deposited +the meat under some stones, intending to pick them up on our return. + +We put up at sunset on the borders of a large lake, having come twelve +miles. A few dwarf birches afforded us but a scanty fire yet, being +sheltered from the wind by a sandy bank, we passed the night +comfortably though the temperature was 30°. A number of geese passed +over us to the southward. We set off early next morning and marched at +a tolerably quick pace. The atmosphere was quite foggy and our view was +limited to a short distance. At noon the sun shone forth for a few +minutes and the latitude 64° 57′ 7″ was observed. The small streams +that we had hitherto crossed run uniformly to the southward. + +At the end of sixteen miles and a half we encamped amongst a few dwarf +pines and were much rejoiced at having a good fire as the night was +very stormy and cold. The thermometer fluctuated this day between 31 +and 35°. Though the following morning was foggy and rainy we were not +sorry to quit the cold and uncomfortable beds of rock upon which we had +slept and commence our journey at an early hour. After walking about +three miles we passed over a steep sandy ridge and found the course of +the rivulets running towards the north and north-west. Our progress was +slow in the early part of the morning and we were detained for two +hours on the summit of a hill exposed to a very cold wind whilst our +guide went in an unsuccessful pursuit of some reindeer. After walking a +few miles farther the fog cleared away and Keskarrah pointed out the +Copper-Mine River at a distance and we pushed towards it with all the +speed we could put forth. At noon we arrived at an arm of Point Lake, +an extensive expansion of the river, and observed the latitude 65° 9′ +06″ North. We continued our walk along the south end of this arm for +about a mile farther and then halted to breakfast amidst a cluster of +pines. Here the longitude 112° 57′ 25″ was observed. After breakfast we +set out and walked along the east side of the arm towards the main body +of the lake, leaving Samandré to prepare an encampment amongst the +pines against our return. We found the main channel deep, its banks +high and rocky, and the valleys on its borders interspersed with +clusters of spruce-trees. The latter circumstance was a source of much +gratification to us. The temperature of its surface water was 41°, that +of the air being 43°. Having gained all the information we could +collect from our guide and from personal observation we retraced our +steps to the encampment, and on the way back Hepburn and Keskarrah shot +several waveys (_Anas hyperborea_) which afforded us a seasonable +supply, our stock of provision being nearly exhausted. These birds were +feeding in large flocks on the crow-berries which grew plentifully on +the sides of the hills. We reached the encampment after dark, found a +comfortable hut prepared for our reception, made an excellent supper, +and slept soundly though it snowed hard the whole night. + +The hills in this neighbourhood are higher than those about Fort +Enterprise; they stand however in the same detached manner without +forming connected ranges; and the bottom of every valley is occupied +either by a small lake or a stony marsh. On the borders of such of +these lakes as communicate with the Copper-Mine River there are a few +groves of spruce-trees, generally growing on accumulations of sand on +the acclivities of the hills. + +We did not quit the encampment on the morning of September 13th until +nine o’clock in consequence of a constant fall of snow; but at that +hour we set out on our return to Fort Enterprise and, taking a route +somewhat different from the one by which we came, kept to the eastward +of a chain of lakes. Soon after noon the weather became extremely +disagreeable; a cold northerly gale came on attended by snow and sleet, +and the temperature fell very soon from 43° to 34°. The waveys, alarmed +at the sudden change, flew over our heads in great numbers to a milder +climate. We walked as quickly as possible to get a place that would +furnish some fuel and shelter; but the fog occasioned us to make +frequent halts from the inability of our guide to trace his way. At +length we came to a spot which afforded us plenty of dwarf birches but +they were so much frozen and the snow fell so thick that upwards of two +hours were wasted in endeavouring to make a fire, during which time our +clothes were freezing upon us. At length our efforts were crowned with +success and after a good supper we laid or rather sat down to sleep, +for the nature of the ground obliged us to pass the night in a +demi-erect position with our backs against a bank of earth. The +thermometer was 16° at six P.M. + +After enjoying a more comfortable night’s rest than we had expected we +set off at daybreak, the thermometer then standing at 18°. The ground +was covered with snow, the small lakes were frozen, and the whole scene +had a wintry appearance. We got on but slowly at first owing to an old +sprained ankle which had been very troublesome to me for the last three +days and was this morning excessively painful. In fording a rivulet +however the application of cold water gave me immediate relief and I +walked with ease the remainder of the day. In the afternoon we rejoined +our track outwards and came to the place where Keskarrah had made his +deposit of provision, which proved a very acceptable supply as our +stock was exhausted. We then crossed some sandhills and encamped amidst +a few small pines, having walked thirteen miles. + +The comfort of a good fire made us soon insensible to the fatigue we +had experienced through the day in marching over the rugged stones +whose surface was rendered slippery by the frost. The thermometer at +seven P.M. stood at 27°. + +RETURN TO THE WINTER QUARTERS OF FORT ENTERPRISE. + + +We set off at sunrise next morning and our provision being expended +pushed on as fast as we could to Fort Enterprise where we arrived at +eight P.M., almost exhausted by a harassing day’s march of twenty-two +miles. A substantial supper of reindeer steaks soon restored our +vigour. We had the happiness of meeting our friends Mr. Back and Mr. +Hood who had returned from their excursion on the day succeeding that +on which we set out; and I received from them the following account of +their journey. + +They proceeded up the Winter River to the north end of the Little +Marten Lake and then the guide, being unacquainted with the route by +water to the Copper-Mine River, proposed that the canoe should be left. +Upon this they ascended the loftiest hill in the neighbourhood to +examine whether they could discover any large lakes or water +communication in the direction where the guide described the river to +be. They only saw a small rivulet which was too shallow for the canoe +and also wide of the course and, as they perceived the crew would have +to carry it over a rugged hilly track, they judiciously decided on +leaving it and proceeding forward on foot. Having deposited the canoe +among a few dwarf birch bushes they commenced their march, carrying +their tents, blankets, cooking utensils, and a part of the dried meat. +St. Germain however had previously delineated with charcoal a man and a +house on a piece of bark which he placed over the canoe and the few +things that were left to point out to the Dog-Ribs that they belonged +to white people. + +The party reached the shores of Point Lake through which the +Copper-Mine River runs on the 1st of September. The next day was too +stormy for them to march but on the 3rd they proceeded along its shores +to the westward round a mountainous promontory and, perceiving the +course of the lake extending to the West-North-West, they encamped near +some pines and then enjoyed the luxury of a good fire for the first +time since their departure from us. The temperature of the water in the +lake was 35° and of the air 32°, but the latter fell to 20° in the +course of that night. As their principal object was to ascertain +whether any arm of the lake branched nearer to Fort Enterprise than the +part they had fallen upon, to which the transport of our goods could be +more easily made next spring, they returned on its borders to the +eastward, being satisfied by the appearance of the mountains between +south and west that no further examination was necessary in that +direction; and they continued their march until the 6th at noon without +finding any part of the lake inclining nearer the fort. They therefore +encamped to observe the eclipse which was to take place on the +following morning but, a violent snowstorm rendering the observation +impossible, they commenced their return and after a comfortless and +laborious march regained their canoe on the 10th and, embarking in it, +arrived the same evening at the house. + +Point Lake varied, as far as they traced, from one to three miles in +width. Its main course was nearly east and west, but several arms +branched off in different directions. I was much pleased with the able +manner in which these officers executed the service they had been +despatched upon, and was gratified to learn from them that their +companions had conducted themselves extremely well and borne the +fatigues of their journey most cheerfully. They scarcely ever had more +than sufficient fuel to boil the kettle and were generally obliged to +lie down in their wet clothes and consequently suffered much from cold. + +The distance which the parties travelled in their journey to and from +Point Lake may be estimated at one hundred and ten statute miles which, +being added to the distances given in the preceding pages, amount to +one thousand five hundred and twenty miles that the Expedition +travelled in 1820 up to the time of its residence at Fort Enterprise. + + + + +CHAPTER 8. + +TRANSACTIONS AT FORT ENTERPRISE. MR. BACK’S NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY TO +CHIPEWYAN, AND RETURN. + + +TRANSACTIONS AT FORT ENTERPRISE. + + +September 1820. + +During our little expedition to the Copper-Mine River Mr. Wentzel had +made great progress in the erection of our winter-house having nearly +roofed it in. But before proceeding to give an account of a ten months’ +residence at this place, henceforth designated Fort Enterprise, I may +premise that I shall omit many of the ordinary occurrences of a North +American winter as they have been already detailed in so able and +interesting a manner by Ellis,[20] and confine myself principally to +the circumstances which had an influence on our progress in the ensuing +summer. The observations on the magnetic needle, the temperature of the +atmosphere, the Aurora Borealis, and other meteorological phenomena, +together with the mineralogical and botanical notices, being less +interesting to the general reader, are omitted in this edition. + + [20] Voyage to Hudson’s Bay in the _Dobbs_ and _California_. + + +The men continued to work diligently at the house and by the 30th of +September had nearly completed it for our reception when a heavy fall +of rain washed the greater part of the mud off the roof. This rain was +remarked by the Indians as unusual after what they had deemed so +decided a commencement of winter in the early part of the month. The +mean temperature for the month was 33 3/4°, but the thermometer had +sunk as low as 16° and on one occasion rose to 53°. + +Besides the party constantly employed at the house two men were +appointed to fish and others were occasionally sent for meat as the +hunters procured it. This latter employment, although extremely +laborious, was always relished by the Canadians as they never failed to +use a prescriptive right of helping themselves to the fattest and most +delicate parts of the deer. Towards the end of the month the reindeer +began to quit the barren grounds and came into the vicinity of the +house on their way to the woods and, the success of the hunters being +consequently great, the necessity of sending for the meat considerably +retarded the building of the house. In the meantime we resided in our +canvas tents which proved very cold habitations although we maintained +a fire in front of them and also endeavoured to protect ourselves from +the piercing winds by a barricade of pine branches. + +On the 6th of October, the house being completed, we struck our tents +and removed into it. It was merely a log building, fifty feet long and +twenty-four wide, divided into a hall, three bedrooms and a kitchen. +The walls and roof were plastered with clay, the floors laid with +planks rudely squared with the hatchet, and the windows closed with +parchment of deer-skin. The clay which, from the coldness of the +weather, required to be tempered before the fire with hot water, froze +as it was daubed on and afterwards cracked in such a manner as to admit +the wind from every quarter yet, compared with the tents, our new +habitation appeared comfortable and, having filled our capacious +clay-built chimney with fagots, we spent a cheerful evening before the +invigorating blaze. The change was peculiarly beneficial to Dr. +Richardson who, having in one of his excursions incautiously laid down +on the frozen side of a hill when heated with walking, had caught a +severe inflammatory sore throat which became daily worse whilst we +remained in the tents but began to mend soon after he was enabled to +confine himself to the more equable warmth of the house. We took up our +abode at first on the floor but our working party, who had shown such +skill as house carpenters, soon proved themselves to be, with the same +tools (the hatchet and crooked knife) excellent cabinetmakers and daily +added a table, chair, or bedstead to the comforts of our establishment. +The crooked knife generally made of an old file, bent and tempered by +heat, serves an Indian or Canadian voyager for plane, chisel, and +auger. With it the snowshoe and canoe-timbers are fashioned, the deals +of their sledges reduced to the requisite thinness and polish, and +their wooden bowls and spoons hollowed out. Indeed though not quite so +requisite for existence as the hatchet yet without its aid there would +be little comfort in these wilds. + +On the 7th we were gratified by a sight of the sun after it had been +obscured for twelve days. On this and several following days the +meridian sun melted the light covering of snow or hoarfrost on the +lichens which clothe the barren grounds, and rendered them so tender as +to attract great herds of reindeer to our neighbourhood. On the morning +of the 10th I estimated the numbers I saw during a short walk at +upwards of two thousand. They form into herds of different sizes from +ten to a hundred according as their fears or accident induce them to +unite or separate. + +The females being at this time more lean and active usually lead the +van. The haunches of the males are now covered to the depth of two +inches or more with fat which is beginning to get red and high +flavoured and is considered a sure indication of the commencement of +the rutting season. Their horns, which in the middle of August were yet +tender, have now attained their proper size and are beginning to lose +their hairy covering which hangs from them in ragged filaments. The +horns of the reindeer vary not only with its sex and age but are +otherwise so uncertain in their growth that they are never alike in any +two individuals. The old males shed theirs about the end of December; +the females retain them until the disappearance of the snow enables +them to frequent the barren grounds which may be stated to be about the +middle or end of May, soon after which period they proceed towards the +sea-coast and drop their young. The young males lose their horns about +the same time with the females or a little earlier, some of them as +early as April. The hair of the reindeer falls in July and is succeeded +by a short thick coat of mingled clove, deep reddish and yellowish +browns; the belly and under parts of the neck, etc., remaining white. +As the winter approaches the hair becomes longer and lighter in its +colours and it begins to loosen in May, being then much worn on the +sides from the animal rubbing itself against trees and stones. It +becomes grayish and almost white before it is completely shed. The +Indians form their robes of the skins procured in autumn when the hair +is short. Towards the spring the larvæ of the oestrus, attaining a +large size, produce so many perforations in the skins that they are +good for nothing. The cicatrices only of these holes are to be seen in +August but a fresh set of _ova_ have in the meantime been +deposited.[21] + + [21] “It is worthy of remark that in the month of May a very great + number of large larvæ exist under the mucous membrane at the root of + the tongue and posterior part of the nares and pharynx. The Indians + consider them to belong to the same species with the oestrus that + deposits its ova under the skin: to us the larvæ of the former + appeared more flattened than those of the latter. Specimens of both + kinds preserved in spirits were destroyed by the frequent falls they + received on the portages.”—Dr. Richardson’s Journal. + + +The reindeer retire from the sea-coast in July and August, rut in +October on the verge of the barren grounds and shelter themselves in +the woods during the winter. They are often induced by a few fine days +in winter to pay a transitory visit to their favourite pastures in the +barren country, but their principal movement to the northward commences +generally in the end of April when the snow first begins to melt on the +sides of the hills and early in May, when large patches of the ground +are visible, they are on the banks of the Copper-Mine River. The +females take the lead in this spring migration and bring forth their +young on the sea-coast about the end of May or beginning of June. There +are certain spots or passes well-known to the Indians, through which +the deer invariably pass in their migrations to and from the coast and +it has been observed that they always travel against the wind. The +principal food of the reindeer in the barren grounds consists of the +_Cetraria nivalis_ and _cucullata, Cenomyce rangiferina, Cornicularia +ochrileuca_, and other lichens, and they also eat the hay or dry grass +which is found in the swamps in autumn. In the woods they feed on the +different lichens which hang from the trees. They are accustomed to +gnaw their fallen antlers and are said also to devour mice. + +The weight of a full-grown barren-ground deer, exclusive of the offal, +varies from ninety to one hundred and thirty pounds. There is however a +much larger kind found in the woody parts of the country whose carcass +weighs from two hundred to two hundred and forty pounds. This kind +never leaves the woods but its skin is as much perforated by the gadfly +as that of the others, a presumptive proof that the smaller species are +not driven to the sea-coast solely by the attacks of that insect. There +are a few reindeer occasionally killed in the spring whose skins are +entire and these are always fat whereas the others are lean at that +season. This insect likewise infests the red-deer (_wawaskeesh_) but +its ova are not found in the skin of the moose or buffalo, nor, as we +have been informed, of the sheep and goat that inhabit the Rocky +Mountains, although the reindeer found in those parts (which are of an +unusually large kind) are as much tormented by them as the +barren-ground variety. + +The herds of reindeer are attended in their migrations by bands of +wolves which destroy a great many of them. The Copper Indians kill the +reindeer in the summer with the gun or, taking advantage of a +favourable disposition of the ground, they enclose a herd upon a neck +of land and drive them into a lake where they fall an easy prey but, in +the rutting season and in the spring, when they are numerous on the +skirts of the woods, they catch them in snares. The snares are simple +nooses, formed in a rope made of twisted sinew, which are placed in the +aperture of a slight hedge constructed of the branches of trees. This +hedge is so disposed as to form several winding compartments and, +although it is by no means strong, yet the deer seldom attempt to break +through it. The herd is led into the labyrinth by two converging rows +of poles and one is generally caught at each of the openings by the +noose placed there. The hunter too, lying in ambush, stabs some of them +with his bayonet as they pass by and the whole herd frequently becomes +his prey. Where wood is scarce a piece of turf turned up answers the +purpose of a pole to conduct them towards the snares. + +The reindeer has a quick eye but the hunter, by keeping to leeward and +using a little caution, may approach very near, their apprehensions +being much more easily roused by the smell than the sight of any +unusual object. Indeed their curiosity often causes them to come close +up and wheel around the hunter; thus affording him a good opportunity +of singling out the fattest of the herd, and upon these occasions they +often become so confused by the shouts and gestures of their enemy that +they run backwards and forwards with great rapidity but without the +power of making their escape. + +The Copper Indians find by experience that a white dress attracts them +most readily and they often succeed in bringing them within shot by +kneeling and vibrating the gun from side to side in imitation of the +motion of a deer’s horns when he is in the act of rubbing his head +against a stone. + +The Dog-Rib Indians have a mode of killing these animals which though +simple is very successful. It was thus described by Mr. Wentzel who +resided long amongst that people. The hunters go in pairs, the foremost +man carrying in one hand the horns and part of the skin of the head of +a deer and in the other a small bundle of twigs against which he from +time to time rubs the horns, imitating the gestures peculiar to the +animal. His comrade follows, treading exactly in his footsteps and +holding the guns of both in a horizontal position so that the muzzles +project under the arms of him who carries the head. Both hunters have a +fillet of white skin round their foreheads and the foremost has a strip +of the same kind round his wrists. They approach the herd by degrees, +raising their legs very slowly but setting them down somewhat suddenly +after the manner of a deer, and always taking care to lift their right +or left feet simultaneously. If any of the herd leave off feeding to +gaze upon this extraordinary phenomenon it instantly stops and the head +begins to play its part by licking its shoulders and performing other +necessary movements. In this way the hunters attain the very centre of +the herd without exciting suspicion and have leisure to single out the +fattest. The hindmost man then pushes forward his comrade’s gun, the +head is dropped, and they both fire nearly at the same instant. The +herd scampers off, the hunters trot after them; in a short time the +poor animals halt to ascertain the cause of their terror, their foes +stop at the same instant and, having loaded as they ran, greet the +gazers with a second fatal discharge. The consternation of the deer +increases, they run to and fro in the utmost confusion, and sometimes a +great part of the herd is destroyed within the space of a few hundred +yards. + +A party who had been sent to Akaitcho returned bringing three hundred +and seventy pounds of dried meat and two hundred and twenty pounds of +suet, together with the unpleasant information that a still larger +quantity of the latter article had been found and carried off, as he +supposed, by some Dog-Ribs who had passed that way. + +The weather becoming daily colder all the lakes in the neighbourhood of +the house were completely, and the river partially, frozen over by the +middle of the month. The reindeer now began to quit us for more +southerly and better-sheltered pastures. Indeed their longer residence +in our neighbourhood would have been of little service to us, for our +ammunition was almost completely expended though we had dealt it of +late with a very sparing hand to the Indians. We had however already +secured in the storehouse the carcasses of one hundred deer together +with one thousand pounds of suet and some dried meat, and had moreover +eighty deer stowed up at various distances from the house. The +necessity of employing the men to build a house for themselves before +the weather became too severe obliged us to put the latter _en cache_, +as the voyagers term it, instead of adopting the more safe plan of +bringing them to the house. Putting a deer _en cache_ means merely +protecting it against the wolves and still more destructive wolverines +by heavy loads of wood or stones; the latter animal however sometimes +digs underneath the pile and renders the precautions abortive. + +On the 18th Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel set out for Fort Providence +accompanied by Beauparlant, Belanger, and two Indians, Akaiyazza and +Tholezzeh, with their wives, the Little Forehead and the Smiling +Marten. Mr. Back had volunteered to go and make the necessary +arrangements for transporting the stores we expected from Cumberland +House and to endeavour to obtain some additional supplies from the +establishments at Slave Lake. If any accident should have prevented the +arrival of our stores and the establishments at Moose-Deer Island +should be unable to supply the deficiency he was, if he found himself +equal to the task, to proceed to Chipewyan. Ammunition was essential to +our existence and a considerable supply of tobacco was also requisite, +not only for the comfort of the Canadians, who use it largely and had +stipulated for it in their engagements, but also as a means of +preserving the friendship of the Indians. Blankets, cloth, and +iron-work were scarcely less indispensable to equip our men for the +advance next season. + +Mr. Wentzel accompanied Mr. Back to assist him in obtaining from the +traders, on the score of old friendship, that which they might be +inclined to deny to our necessities. I forwarded by them letters to the +Colonial Office and Admiralty detailing the proceedings of the +Expedition up to this period. + +On the 22nd we were surprised by a visit from a dog; the poor animal +was in low condition and much fatigued. Our Indians discovered by marks +on his ears that he belonged to the Dog-Ribs. This tribe, unlike the +Chipewyans and Copper Indians, had preserved that useful associate of +man although, from their frequent intercourse with the latter people, +they were not ignorant of the prediction alluded to in a former page. +One of our interpreters was immediately despatched with an Indian to +endeavour to trace out the Dog-Ribs, whom he supposed might be +concealed in the neighbourhood from their dread of the Copper Indians; +although we had no doubt of their coming to us were they aware of our +being here. The interpreter however returned without having discovered +any traces of strange Indians, a circumstance which led us to conclude +that the dog had strayed from his masters a considerable time before. + +Towards the end of the month the men completed their house and took up +their abode in it. It was thirty-four feet long and eighteen feet wide, +was divided into two apartments and was placed at right angles to the +officers’ dwelling and facing the storehouse, the three buildings +forming three sides of a quadrangle. + +On the 26th Akaitcho and his party arrived, the hunting in this +neighbourhood being terminated for the season by the deer having +retired southward to the shelter of the woods. + +The arrival of this large party was a serious inconvenience to us from +our being compelled to issue them daily rates of provision from the +store. The want of ammunition prevented us from equipping and sending +them to the woods to hunt and, although they are accustomed to subsist +themselves for a considerable part of the year by fishing or snaring +the deer, without having recourse to firearms, yet on the present +occasion they felt little inclined to do so and gave scope to their +natural love of ease as long as our storehouse seemed to be well +stocked. Nevertheless as they were conscious of impairing our future +resources they did not fail occasionally to remind us that it was not +their fault, to express an ardent desire to go hunting, and to request +a supply of ammunition although they knew that it was not in our power +to give it. + +The summer birds had by this time entirely deserted us, leaving for our +winter companions the raven, cinereous crow, ptarmigan, and snow-bird. +The last of the waterfowl that quitted us was a species of diver of the +same size with the _Colymbus arcticus_, but differing from it in the +arrangement of the white spots on its plumage, and in having a +yellowish-white bill. This bird was occasionally caught in our +fishing-nets. + +The thermometer during the month of October at Fort Enterprise never +rose above 37° or fell below 5°; the mean temperature for the month was +23°. + +In the beginning of October a party had been sent to the westward to +search for birch to make snowshoe frames, and the Indian women were +afterwards employed in netting the shoes and preparing leather for +winter clothing to the men. Robes of reindeer skins were also obtained +from the Indians and issued to the men who were to travel as they were +not only a great deal lighter than blankets but also much warmer and +altogether better adapted for a winter in this climate. They are +however unfit for summer use as the least moisture causes the skin to +spoil and lose its hair. It requires the skins of seven deer to make +one robe. The finest are made of the skins of young fawns. + +The fishing having failed as the weather became more severe was given +up on the 5th. It had procured us about one thousand two hundred +_white-fish_, from two to three pounds each. There are two other +species of _Coregoni_ in Winter Lake, _Back’s grayling_ and the +_round-fish;_ and a few _trout, pike, methye_, and _red carp_ were also +occasionally obtained from the nets. It may be worthy of notice here +that the fish froze as they were taken out of the nets, in a short time +became a solid mass of ice and, by a blow or two of the hatchet, were +easily split open, when the intestines might be removed in one lump. If +in this completely frozen state they were thawed before the fire they +recovered their animation. This was particularly the case with the carp +and we had occasion to observe it repeatedly as Dr. Richardson occupied +himself with examining the structure of the different species of fish +and was always in the winter under the necessity of thawing them before +he could cut them. We have seen a carp recover so far as to leap about +with much vigour after it had been frozen for thirty-six hours. + +From the 12th to the 16th we had fine and, for the season, warm +weather; and the deer, which had not been seen since the 26th of +October, reappeared in the neighbourhood of the house, to the surprise +of the Indians who attributed their return to the barren grounds to the +unusual mildness of the season. On this occasion, by melting some of +our pewter cups, we managed to furnish five balls to each of the +hunters, but they were all expended unsuccessfully, except by Akaitcho +who killed two deer. + +By the middle of the month Winter River was firmly frozen over except +the small rapid at its commencement which remained open all the winter. +The ice on the lake was now nearly two feet thick. After the 16th we +had a succession of cold, snowy, and windy weather. We had become +anxious to hear of the arrival of Mr. Back and his party at Fort +Providence. The Indians, who had calculated the period at which a +messenger ought to have returned from thence to be already passed, +became impatient when it had elapsed and, with their usual love of evil +augury, tormented us by their melancholy forebodings. At one time they +conjectured that the whole party had fallen through the ice; at another +that they had been waylaid and cut off by the Dog-Ribs. In vain did we +urge the improbability of the former accident, or the peaceable +character of the Dog-Ribs, so little in conformity with the latter. +“The ice at this season was deceitful,” they said “and the Dog-Ribs, +though unwarlike, were treacherous.” These assertions, so often +repeated, had some effect upon the spirits of our Canadian voyagers who +seldom weigh any opinion they adopt, but we persisted in treating their +fears as chimerical for, had we seemed to listen to them for a moment, +it is more than probable that the whole of our Indians would have gone +to Fort Providence in search of supplies, and we should have found it +extremely difficult to have recovered them. + +The matter was put to rest by the appearance of Belanger on the morning +of the 23rd and the Indians, now running into the opposite extreme, +were disposed to give us more credit for our judgment than we deserved. +They had had a tedious and fatiguing journey to Fort Providence and for +some days were destitute of provisions. + +Belanger arrived alone; he had walked constantly for the last +six-and-thirty hours, leaving his Indian companions encamped at the +last woods, they being unwilling to accompany him across the barren +grounds during the storm that had prevailed for several days and blew +with unusual violence on the morning of his arrival. His locks were +matted with snow and he was encrusted with ice from head to foot so +that we scarcely recognised him when he burst in upon us. We welcomed +him with the usual shake of the hand but were unable to give him the +glass of rum which every voyager receives on his arrival at a trading +post. + +As soon as his packet was thawed we eagerly opened it to obtain our +English letters. The latest were dated on the preceding April. They +came by way of Canada and were brought up in September to Slave Lake by +North-West Company’s canoes. + +We were not so fortunate with regard to our stores; of ten pieces, or +bales of 90 pounds weight, which had been sent from York Factory by +Governor Williams five of the most essential had been left at the Grand +Rapid on the Saskatchewan, owing, as far as we could judge from the +accounts that reached us, to the misconduct of the officer to whom they +were entrusted and who was ordered to convey them to Cumberland House. +Being overtaken by some of the North-West Company’s canoes he had +insisted on their taking half of his charge as it was intended for the +service of Government. The North-West gentlemen objected that their +canoes had already got a cargo in and that they had been requested to +convey our stores from Cumberland House only, where they had a canoe +waiting for the purpose. The Hudson’s Bay officer upon this deposited +our ammunition and tobacco upon the beach and departed without any +regard to the serious consequences that might result to us from the +want of them. The Indians, who assembled at the opening of the packet +and sat in silence watching our countenances, were necessarily made +acquainted with the non-arrival of our stores and bore the intelligence +with unexpected tranquillity. We took care however in our +communications with them to dwell upon the more agreeable parts of our +intelligence, and they seemed to receive particular pleasure on being +informed of the arrival of two Esquimaux interpreters at Slave Lake, on +their way to join the party. The circumstance not only quieted their +fears of opposition from the Esquimaux on our descent to the sea next +season, but also afforded a substantial proof of our influence in being +able to bring two people of that nation from such a distance. + +Akaitcho, who is a man of great penetration and shrewdness, duly +appreciated these circumstances; indeed he has often surprised us by +his correct judgment of the character of individuals amongst the +traders of our own party, although his knowledge of their opinions was +in most instances obtained through the imperfect medium of +interpretation. He was an attentive observer however of every action, +and steadily compared their conduct with their pretensions. + +By the newspapers we learned the demise of our revered and lamented +sovereign George III and the proclamation of George IV. We concealed +this intelligence from the Indians lest the death of their Great Father +might lead them to suppose that we should be unable to fulfil our +promises to them. + +The Indians who had left Fort Providence with Belanger arrived the day +after him and, amongst other intelligence, informed Akaitcho of some +reports they had heard to our disadvantage. They stated that Mr. Weeks, +the gentleman in charge of Fort Providence, had told them that, so far +from our being what we represented ourselves to be, the officers of a +great King, we were merely a set of dependent wretches whose only aim +was to obtain subsistence for a season in the plentiful country of the +Copper Indians, that out of charity we had been supplied with a portion +of goods by the trading Companies, but that there was not the smallest +probability of our being able to reward the Indians when their term of +service was completed. Akaitcho, with great good sense, instantly came +to have the matter explained, stating at the same time that he could +not credit it. I then pointed out to him that Mr. Wentzel, with whom +they had long been accustomed to trade, had pledged the credit of his +Company for the stipulated rewards to the party that accompanied us, +and that the trading debts due by Akaitcho and his party had already +been remitted, which was of itself a sufficient proof of our influence +with the North-West Company. I also reminded Akaitcho that our having +caused the Esquimaux to be brought up at a great expense was evidence +of our future intentions, and informed him that I should write to Mr. +Smith, the senior trader in the department, on the subject when I had +no doubt that a satisfactory explanation would be given. The Indians +retired from the conference apparently satisfied, but this business was +in the end productive of much inconvenience to us, and proved very +detrimental to the progress of the Expedition. In conjunction also with +other intelligence conveyed in Mr. Back’s letters respecting the +disposition of the traders towards us, particularly a statement of Mr. +Weeks that he had been desired not to assist us with supplies from his +post, it was productive of much present uneasiness to me. + +On the 28th St. Germain the interpreter set out with eight Canadian +voyagers and four Indian hunters to bring up our stores from Fort +Providence. I wrote by him to Mr. Smith at Moose-Deer Island and Mr. +Keith at Chipewyan, both of the North-West Company, urging them in the +strongest manner to comply with the requisition for stores which Mr. +Back would present. I also informed Mr. Simpson, principal agent in the +Athabasca for the Hudson’s Bay Company who had proffered every +assistance in his power, that we should gladly avail ourselves of the +kind intentions expressed in a letter which I had received from him. + +We also sent a number of broken axes to Slave Lake to be repaired. The +dog that came to us on the 22nd of October and had become very familiar +followed the party. We were in hopes that it might prove of some use in +dragging their loads but we afterwards learned that on the evening +after their departure from the house they had the cruelty to kill and +eat it although they had no reason to apprehend a scarcity of +provision. A dog is considered to be delicate eating by the voyagers. + +The mean temperature of the air for November was minus 0.7°. The +greatest heat observed was 25° above and the least 31° below zero. + +On the 1st of December the sky was clear, a slight appearance of +stratus only being visible near the horizon, but a kind of snow fell at +intervals in the forenoon, its particles so minute as to be observed +only in the sunshine. Towards noon the snow became more apparent and +the two limbs of a prismatic arch were visible, one on each side of the +sun near its place in the heavens, the centre being deficient. We have +frequently observed this descent of minute icy spiculae when the sky +appears perfectly clear, and could even perceive that its silent but +continued action added to the snowy covering of the ground. + +Having received one hundred balls from Fort Providence by Belanger we +distributed them amongst the Indians, informing the leader at the same +time that the residence of so large a party as his at the house, +amounting with women and children to forty souls, was producing a +serious reduction in our stock of provision. He acknowledged the +justice of the statement and promised to remove as soon as his party +had prepared snowshoes and sledges for themselves. Under one pretext or +other however their departure was delayed until the 10th of the month +when they left us, having previously received one of our fishing-nets +and all the ammunition we possessed. The leader left his aged mother +and two female attendants to our care, requesting that if she died +during his absence she might be buried at a distance from the fort that +he might not be reminded of his loss when he visited us. + +Keskarrah the guide also remained behind with his wife and daughter. +The old man has become too feeble to hunt and his time is almost +entirely occupied in attendance upon his wife who has been long +affected with an ulcer on the face which has nearly destroyed her nose. + +Lately he made an offering to the water spirits whose wrath he +apprehended to be the cause of her malady. It consisted of a knife, a +piece of tobacco, and some other trifling articles which were tied up +in a small bundle and committed to the rapid with a long prayer. He +does not trust entirely however to the relenting of the spirits for his +wife’s cure, but comes daily to Dr. Richardson for medicine. + +Upon one occasion he received the medicine from the Doctor with such +formality and wrapped it up in his reindeer robe with such +extraordinary carefulness that it excited the involuntary laughter of +Mr. Hood and myself. The old man smiled in his turn and, as he always +seemed proud of the familiar way in which we were accustomed to joke +with him, we thought no more upon the subject. But he unfortunately +mentioned the circumstance to his wife who imagined in consequence that +the drug was not productive of its usual good effects and they +immediately came to the conclusion that some bad medicine had been +intentionally given to them. The distress produced by this idea was in +proportion to their former faith in the potency of the remedy and the +night was spent in singing and groaning. Next morning the whole family +were crying in concert and it was not until the evening of the second +day that we succeeded in pacifying them. The old woman began to feel +better and her faith in the medicine was renewed. + +While speaking of this family I may remark that the daughter, whom we +designated Green-stockings from her dress, is considered by her tribe +to be a great beauty. Mr. Hood drew an accurate portrait of her +although her mother was averse to her sitting for it. She was afraid +she said that her daughter’s likeness would induce the Great Chief who +resided in England to send for the original. The young lady however was +undeterred by any such fear. She has already been an object of contest +between her countrymen and, although under sixteen years of age, has +belonged successively to two husbands and would probably have been the +wife of many more if her mother had not required her services as a +nurse. + +The weather during this month was the coldest we experienced during our +residence in America. The thermometer sank on one occasion to 57° below +zero and never rose beyond 6° above it; the mean for the month was +minus 29.7°. During these intense colds however the atmosphere was +generally calm and the woodcutters and others went about their ordinary +occupations without using any extraordinary precautions yet without +feeling any bad effects. They had their reindeer shirts on, leathern +mittens lined with blankets, and furred caps; but none of them used any +defence for the face, or needed any. Indeed we have already mentioned +that the heat is abstracted most rapidly from the body during strong +breezes and most of those who have perished from cold in this country +have fallen a sacrifice to their being overtaken on a lake or other +unsheltered place by a storm of wind. The intense colds were however +detrimental to us in another way. The trees froze to their very centres +and became as hard as stones and more difficult to cut. Some of the +axes were broken daily and by the end of the month we had only one left +that was fit for felling trees. By entrusting it only to one of the +party who had been bred a carpenter and who could use it with dexterity +it was fortunately preserved until the arrival of our men with others +from Fort Providence. + +A thermometer hung in our bedroom at the distance of sixteen feet from +the fire but exposed to its direct radiation stood even in the daytime +occasionally at 15° below zero, and was observed more than once +previous to the kindling of the fire in the morning to be as low as 40° +below zero. On two of these occasions the chronometers 2149 and 2151 +which during the night lay under Mr. Hood’s and Dr. Richardson’s +pillows stopped while they were dressing themselves. + +The rapid at the commencement of the river remained open in the +severest weather although it was somewhat contracted in width. Its +temperature was 32°, as was the surface of the river opposite the house +about a quarter of a mile lower down tried at a hole in the ice through +which water was drawn for domestic purposes. The river here was two +fathoms and a half deep and the temperature at its bottom was at least +42° above zero. This fact was ascertained by a spirit thermometer in +which, probably from some irregularity in the tube, a small portion of +the coloured liquid usually remained at 42° when the column was made to +descend rapidly. In the present instance, the thermometer standing at +47° below zero with no portion of the fluid in the upper part of the +tube, was let down slowly into the water but drawn cautiously and +rapidly up again, when a red drop at plus 42° indicated that the fluid +had risen to that point or above it. At this period the daily visits of +the sun were very short and, owing to the obliquity of his rays, +afforded us little warmth or light. It is half-past eleven before he +peeps over a small ridge of hills opposite to the house, and he sinks +in the horizon at half-past two. On the 28th Mr. Hood, in order to +attain an approximation to the quantity of terrestrial refraction, +observed the sun’s meridian altitude when the thermometer stood at 46° +below zero, at the imminent hazard of having his fingers frozen. + +He found the sextant had changed its error considerably, and that the +glasses had lost their parallelism from the contraction of the brass. +In measuring the error he perceived that the diameter of the sun’s +image was considerably short of twice the semi-diameter, a proof of the +uncertainty of celestial observations made during these intense frosts. +The results of this and another similar observation are given in the +footnote.[22] + + [22] The observed meridian altitude of sun upper limb was 2° 52′ 51″. + Temperature of the air minus 45.5°. By comparing this altitude, + corrected by the mean refraction and parallax with that deduced from + the latitude which was observed in autumn, the increase of refraction + is found to be 6′ 50″, the whole refraction therefore for the altitude + 2° 52′ 51″ is 21′ 49″. Admitting that the refraction increases in the + same ratio as that of the atmosphere at a mean state of temperature + the horizontal refraction will be 47° 22″. But the diameter of the + sun, measured immediately after the observation, was only 27′ 7″, + which shows an increase of refraction at the lower limb of 3′ 29″. The + horizontal refraction calculated with this difference and the + above-mentioned ratio is 56′ 3″ at the temperature minus 45.5°. So + that in the parallel 68° 42′ where, if there is no refraction, the sun + would be invisible for thirty-four days, his upper limb with the + refraction 56′ 3″ is in fact above the horizon at every noon. + The wind was from the westward a moderate breeze and the air + perfectly clear. January 1st, 1821. Observed meridian altitude of + sun lower limb 2° 35′ 20″, sun apparent diameter 29° 20′. For + apparent altitude 2° 35′ 20″ the mean refraction is 16′ 5″ + (Mackay’s Tables) and the true, found as detailed above, is 20′ 8″ + which, increasing in the same ratio as that of the atmosphere at a + mean state of temperature, is 41′ 19″ at the horizon. But the + difference of refraction at the upper and lower limbs increasing + also in that ratio gives 55′ 16″ for the horizontal refraction. + Temperature of the air minus 41°. Wind north, a light breeze, a + large halo visible about the sun. January 15th, 1821. Observed an + apparent meridian altitude sun lower limb 4° 24′ 57″. Sun apparent + diameter 31′ 5″. For apparent altitude 4° 24′ 57″ the mean + refraction is 10′ 58″ (Mackay’s Tables) and the true, found as + detailed above, is 14′ 39″ which, increasing in the same ratio as + that of the atmosphere at a mean state of temperature, is 43′ 57″ + at the horizon. But the difference of refraction between the upper + and lower limbs increasing also in that ratio gives 48′ 30″ for the + horizontal refraction. + Temperature of the air minus 35°, a light air from the westward, + very clear. + The extreme coldness of the weather rendered these operations + difficult and dangerous; yet I think the observations may be + depended upon within 30″, as will appear by their approximate + results in calculating the horizontal refraction, for it must be + considered that an error of 30″ in the refraction in altitude would + make a difference of several minutes in the horizontal + refraction.—Mr. Hood’s Journal. + + +The Aurora Borealis appeared with more or less brilliancy on +twenty-eight nights of this month and we were also gratified by the +resplendent beauty of the moon which for many days together performed +its circle round the heavens, shining with undiminished lustre and +scarcely disappearing below the horizon during the twenty-four hours. + +During many nights there was a halo round the moon although the stars +shone brightly and the atmosphere appeared otherwise clear. The same +phenomenon was observed round the candles even in our bedrooms, the +diameter of the halo increasing as the observer receded from the light. +These halos, both round the moon and candles, occasionally exhibited +faintly some of the prismatic colours. + +As it may be interesting to the reader to know how we passed our time +at this season of the year I shall mention briefly that a considerable +portion of it was occupied in writing up our journals. Some newspapers +and magazines that we had received from England with our letters were +read again and again and commented upon at our meals; and we often +exercised ourselves with conjecturing the changes that might take place +in the world before we could hear from it again. The probability of our +receiving letters and the period of their arrival were calculated to a +nicety. We occasionally paid the woodmen a visit or took a walk for a +mile or two on the river. + +In the evenings we joined the men in the hall and took part in their +games which generally continued to a late hour; in short we never found +the time to hang heavy upon our hands; and the peculiar occupations of +each of the officers afforded them more employment than might at first +be supposed. I recalculated the observations made on our route; Mr. +Hood protracted the charts, and made those drawings of birds, plants +and fishes, which cannot appear in this work but which have been the +admiration of everyone who has seen them. Each of the party sedulously +and separately recorded their observations on the Aurora Borealis; and +Dr. Richardson contrived to obtain from under the snow specimens of +most of the lichens in the neighbourhood, and to make himself +acquainted with the mineralogy of the surrounding country. + +The Sabbath was always a day of rest with us; the woodmen were required +to provide for the exigencies of that day on Saturday and the party +were dressed in their best attire. Divine service was regularly +performed and the Canadians attended and behaved with great decorum +although they were all Roman Catholics and but little acquainted with +the language in which the prayers were read. I regretted much that we +had not a French Prayer-Book but the Lord’s Prayer and Creed were +always read to them in their own language. + +Our diet consisted almost entirely of reindeer meat, varied twice a +week by fish and occasionally by a little flour, but we had no +vegetables of any description. On the Sunday mornings we drank a cup of +chocolate but our greatest luxury was tea (without sugar) of which we +regularly partook twice a day. With reindeer’s fat and strips of cotton +shirts we formed candles; and Hepburn acquired considerable skill in +the manufacture of soap from the wood-ashes, fat and salt. The +formation of soap was considered as rather a mysterious operation by +our Canadians and in their hands was always supposed to fail if a woman +approached the kettle in which the ley was boiling. Such are our simple +domestic details. + +On the 30th two hunters came from the leader to convey ammunition to +him as soon as our men should bring it from Fort Providence. + +The men at this time coated the walls of the house on the outside with +a thin mixture of clay and water which formed a crust of ice that for +some days proved impervious to the air; the dryness of the atmosphere +however was such that the ice in a short time evaporated and gave +admission to the wind as before. It is a general custom at the forts to +give this sort of coating to the walls at Christmas time. When it was +gone we attempted to remedy its defect by heaping up snow against the +walls. + +January 1, 1821. + +This morning our men assembled and greeted us with the customary +salutation on the commencement of the new year. That they might enjoy a +holiday they had yesterday collected double the usual quantity of +firewood and we anxiously expected the return of the men from Fort +Providence with some additions to their comforts. We had stronger hope +of their arrival before the evening as we knew that every voyager uses +his utmost endeavour to reach a post upon or previous to, the _jour de +l’an_, that he may partake of the wonted festivities. It forms, as +Christmas is said to have done among our forefathers, the theme of +their conversation for months before and after the period of its +arrival. On the present occasion we could only treat them with a little +flour and fat; these were both considered as great luxuries but still +the feast was defective from the want of rum although we promised them +a little when it should arrive. + +The early part of January proved mild, the thermometer rose to 20° +above zero, and we were surprised by the appearance of a kind of damp +fog approaching very nearly to rain. The Indians expressed their +astonishment at this circumstance and declared the present to be one of +the warmest winters they had ever experienced. Some of them reported +that it had actually rained in the woody parts of the country. In the +latter part of the month however the thermometer again descended to +minus 49° and the mean temperature for the month proved to be minus +15.6°. Owing to the fogs that obscured the sky the Aurora Borealis was +visible only upon eighteen nights in the month. + +On the 15th seven of our men arrived from Fort Providence with two kegs +of rum, one barrel of powder, sixty pounds of ball, two rolls of +tobacco and some clothing. They had been twenty-one days on their march +from Slave Lake and the labour they underwent was sufficiently evinced +by their sledge-collars having worn out the shoulders of their coats. +Their loads weighed from sixty to ninety pounds each, exclusive of +their bedding and provisions which at starting must have been at least +as much more. We were much rejoiced at their arrival and proceeded +forthwith to pierce the spirit cask and issue to each of the household +the portion of rum which had been promised on the first day of the +year. The spirits which were proof were frozen but, after standing at +the fire for some time, they flowed out with the consistency of honey. +The temperature of the liquid even in this state was so low as +instantly to convert into ice the moisture which condensed on the +surface of the dram-glass. The fingers also adhered to the glass and +would doubtless have been speedily frozen had they been kept in contact +with it; yet each of the voyagers swallowed his dram without +experiencing the slightest inconvenience or complaining of toothache. + +After the men had retired an Indian who had accompanied them from Fort +Providence informed me that they had broached the cask on their way up +and spent two days in drinking. This instance of breach of trust was +excessively distressing to me; I felt for their privations and fatigues +and was disposed to seize every opportunity of alleviating them but +this, combined with many instances of petty dishonesty with regard to +meat, showed how little confidence could be put in a Canadian voyager +when food or spirits were in question. We had been indeed made +acquainted with their character on these points by the traders; but we +thought that when they saw their officers living under equal if not +greater privations than themselves they would have been prompted by +some degree of generous feeling to abstain from those depredations +which under ordinary circumstances they would scarcely have blushed to +be detected in. + +As they were pretty well aware that such a circumstance could not long +be concealed from us one of them came the next morning with an artful +apology for their conduct. He stated that as they knew it was my +intention to treat them with a dram on the commencement of the new year +they had helped themselves to a small quantity on that day, trusting to +my goodness for forgiveness and, being unwilling to act harshly at this +period, I did forgive them after admonishing them to be very +circumspect in their future conduct. + +The ammunition and a small present of rum were sent to Akaitcho. + +On the 18th Vaillant the woodman had the misfortune to break his axe. +This would have been a serious evil a few weeks sooner but we had just +received some others from Slave Lake. + +On the 27th Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain arrived with the two Esquimaux, +Attannoeuck and Hoeootoerock (the belly and the ear). The English names +which were bestowed upon them at Fort Churchill in commemoration of the +months of their arrival there are Augustus and Junius. The former +speaks English. + +We now learned that Mr. Back proceeded with Beauparlant to Fort +Chipewyan on the 24th of December to procure stores, having previously +discharged J. Belleau from our service at his own request and according +to my directions. I was the more induced to comply with this man’s +desire of leaving us as he proved to be too weak to perform the duty of +bowman which he had undertaken. + +Four dogs were brought up by this party and proved a great relief to +our wood-haulers during the remainder of the season. + +By the arrival of Mr. Wentzel who is an excellent musician and assisted +us (_con amore_) in our attempts to amuse the men we were enabled to +gratify the whole establishment with an occasional dance. Of this +amusement the voyagers were very fond and not the less so as it was now +and then accompanied by a dram as long as our rum lasted. + +On the 5th of February two Canadians came from Akaitcho for fresh +supplies of ammunition. We were mortified to learn that he had received +some further unpleasant reports concerning us from Fort Providence and +that his faith in our good intentions was somewhat shaken. He expressed +himself dissatisfied with the quantity of ammunition we had sent him, +accused us of an intention of endeavouring to degrade him in the eyes +of his tribe, and informed us that Mr. Weeks had refused to pay some +notes for trifling quantities of goods and ammunition that had been +given to the hunters who accompanied our men to Slave Lake. + +Some powder and shot and a keg of diluted spirits were sent to him with +the strongest assurances of our regard. + +On the 12th another party of six men was sent to Fort Providence to +bring up the remaining stores. St. Germain went to Akaitcho for the +purpose of sending two of his hunters to join this party on its route. + +On comparing the language of our two Esquimaux with a copy of St. +John’s Gospel printed for the use of the Moravian Missionary +Settlements on the Labrador coast it appeared that the Esquimaux who +resort to Churchill speak a language essentially the same with those +who frequent the Labrador Coast. The Red Knives too recognise the +expression _Teyma_, used by the Esquimaux when they acost strangers in +a friendly manner, as similarly pronounced by Augustus and those of his +race who frequent the mouth of the Copper-Mine River. + +The tribe to which Augustus belongs resides generally a little to the +northward of Churchill. In the spring before the ice quits the shores +they kill seal but during winter they frequent the borders of the large +lakes near the coast where they obtain fish, reindeer, and musk-oxen. + +There are eighty-four grown men in the tribe only seven of whom are +aged. Six chiefs have each two wives; the rest of the men have only +one; so that the number of married people may amount to one hundred and +seventy. He could give me no certain data whereby I might estimate the +number of children. + +Two great Chiefs, or _Ackhaiyoot_, have complete authority in directing +the movements of the party and in distributing provisions. The +_Attoogawnœuck_ or lesser chiefs are respected principally as senior +men. The tribe seldom suffers from want of food if the chief moves to +the different stations at the proper season. They seem to follow the +eastern custom respecting marriage. As soon as a girl is born the young +lad who wishes to have her for a wife goes to her father’s tent and +proffers himself. If accepted a promise is given which is considered +binding and the girl is delivered to her betrothed husband at the +proper age. + +They consider their progenitors to have come from the moon. Augustus +has no other idea of a Deity than some confused notions which he has +obtained at Churchill. + +When any of the tribe are dangerously ill a conjurer is sent for and +the bearer of the message carries a suitable present to induce his +attendance. Upon his arrival he encloses himself in the tent with the +sick man and sings over him for days together without tasting food; but +Augustus as well as the rest of the uninitiated are ignorant of the +purport of his songs and of the nature of the Being to whom they are +addressed. The conjurors practise a good deal of jugglery in swallowing +knives, firing bullets through their bodies, etc., but they are at +these times generally secluded from view and the bystanders believe +their assertions without requiring to be eye-witnesses of the fact. +Sixteen men and three women amongst Augustus’ tribe are acquainted with +the mysteries of the art. The skill of the latter is exerted only on +their own sex. + +Upon the map being spread before Augustus he soon comprehended it and +recognised Chesterfield Inlet to be the opening into which salt-waters +enter at spring tides and which receives a river at its upper end. He +termed it _Kannœuck Kleenœuck_. He has never been farther north himself +than Marble Island, which he distinguishes as being the spot where the +large ships were wrecked, alluding to the disastrous termination of +Barlow and Knight’s Voyage of Discovery.[23] He says however that +Esquimaux of three different tribes have traded with his countrymen and +that they described themselves as having come across land from a +northern sea. One tribe who named themselves _Ahwhacknanhelett_ he +supposes may come from Repulse Bay; another designated +_Ootkooseekkalingmœoot_ or Stone-Kettle Esquimaux reside more to the +westward; and the third the _Kang-orr-mœoot_ or White Goose Esquimaux +describe themselves as coming from a great distance and mentioned that +a party of Indians had killed several of their tribe in the summer +preceding their visit. Upon comparing the dates of this murder with +that of the last massacre which the Copper Indians have perpetrated on +these harmless and defenceless people they appear to differ two years; +but the lapse of time is so inaccurately recorded that this difference +in their accounts is not sufficient to destroy their identity; besides, +the Chipewyans, the only other Indians who could possibly have +committed the deed, have long since ceased to go to war. If this +massacre should be the one mentioned by the Copper Indians the +Kang-orr-mœoot must reside near the mouth of the Anatessy, or River of +Strangers. + + [23] See Introduction to Hearne’s _Journey_ page xxiv. + + +The winter habitations of Esquimaux who visit Churchill are built of +snow and, judging from one constructed by Augustus today, they are very +comfortable dwellings. Having selected a spot on the river where the +snow was about two feet deep and sufficiently compact he commenced by +tracing out a circle twelve feet in diameter. The snow in the interior +of the circle was next divided with a broad knife having a long handle +into slabs three feet long, six inches thick, and two feet deep, being +the thickness of the layer of snow. These slabs were tenacious enough +to admit of being moved about without breaking or even losing the +sharpness of their angles and they had a slight degree of curvature +corresponding with that of the circle from which they were cut. They +were piled upon each other exactly like courses of hewn stone around +the circle which was traced out and care was taken to smooth the beds +of the different courses with the knife, and to cut them so as to give +the wall a slight inclination inwards, by which contrivance the +building acquired the properties of a dome. The dome was closed +somewhat suddenly and flatly by cutting the upper slabs in a wedge-form +instead of the more rectangular shape of those below. The roof was +about eight feet high, and the last aperture was shut up by a small +conical piece. The whole was built from within and each slab was cut so +that it retained its position without requiring support until another +was placed beside it, the lightness of the slabs greatly facilitating +the operation. When the building was covered in a little loose snow was +thrown over it to close up every chink and a low door was cut through +the walls with a knife. A bed-place was next formed and neatly faced up +with slabs of snow, which was then covered with a thin layer of pine +branches to prevent them from melting by the heat of the body. At each +end of the bed a pillar of snow was erected to place a lamp upon, and +lastly a porch was built before the door and a piece of clear ice was +placed in an aperture cut in the wall for a window. + +The purity of the material of which the house was framed, the elegance +of its construction, and the translucency of its walls which +transmitted a very pleasant light, gave it an appearance far superior +to a marble building and one might survey it with feelings somewhat +akin to those produced by the contemplation of a Grecian temple reared +by Phidias; both are triumphs of art, inimitable in their kinds. + +Annexed there is a plan of a complete Esquimaux snow-house and kitchen +and other apartments copied from a sketch made by Augustus with the +names of the different places affixed. The only fireplace is in the +kitchen, the heat of the lamps sufficing to keep the other apartments +warm. + + +Illustration: + +REFERENCES TO THE PLAN. + + +A. _Ablokeyt_, steps. +B. _Pahloeuk_, porch. +C. _Wadl-leek_, passage. +D. _Haddnoeweek_, for the reception of the sweepings of the house. +E. G. _Tokheuook_, antechamber, or passage. +F. _Annarrœartoweek_. +H. _Eegah_, cooking-house. +I. _Eegah-natkah_, passage. +K. _Keidgewack_, for piling wood upon. +L. _Keek kloweyt_, cooking side. +M. _Keek loot_, fireplace built of stone. +N. _Eegloo_, house. +O. _Kattack_, door. +P. _Nattœuck_, clear space in the apartment. +a. d. _Eekput_, a kind of shelf where the candle stands; and +b. c. a pit where they throw their bones and other offal of their +provision. +Q. _Eegl-luck_, bed-place. +R. _Eegleeteœt_, bedside or sitting-place. +S. Bed-place, as on the other side. +T. _Kie’gn-nok_, small pantry. +U. _Hœrgloack_, storehouse for provisions. + +Several deer were killed near the house and we received some supplies +from Akaitcho. Parties were also employed in bringing in the meat that +was placed _en cache_ in the early part of the winter. More than one +half of these _caches_ however had been destroyed by the wolves and +wolverines, a circumstance which, in conjunction with the empty state +of our storehouse, led us to fear that we should be much straitened for +provisions before the arrival of any considerable number of reindeer in +this neighbourhood. + +A good many ptarmigan were seen at this time and the women caught some +in snares, but not in sufficient quantity to make any further +alteration in the rations of deers’ meat that were daily issued. They +had already been reduced from eight to the short allowance of five +pounds. + +Many wolves prowled nightly about the house and even ventured upon the +roof of the kitchen, which is a low building, in search of food; +Keskarrah shot a very large white one, of which a beautiful and correct +drawing was made by Mr. Hood. + +The temperature in February was considerably lower than in the +preceding month although not so low as in December, the mean being +minus 25.3°. The greatest temperature was 1 degree above zero and the +lowest 51° below. + +On the 5th of March the people returned from Slave Lake bringing the +remainder of our stores consisting of a cask of flour, thirty-six +pounds of sugar, a roll of tobacco, and forty pounds of powder. I +received a letter from Mr. Weeks wherein he denied that he had ever +circulated any reports to our disadvantage, and stated that he had done +everything in his power to assist us, and even discouraged Akaitcho +from leaving us when he had sent him a message saying that he wished to +do so if he was sure of being well received at Fort Providence. + +We mentioned the contents of the letter to the Indians who were at the +house at the time, when one of the hunters, who had attended the men on +their journey, stated that he had heard many of the reports against us +from Mr. Weeks himself and expressed his surprise that he should +venture to deny them. St. Germain soon afterwards arrived from Akaitcho +and informed us that he left him in good humour and apparently not +harbouring the slightest idea of quitting us. + +On the 12th we sent four men to Fort Providence, and on the 17th Mr. +Back arrived from Fort Chipewyan, having performed since he left us a +journey of more than one thousand miles on foot. I had every reason to +be much pleased with his conduct on this arduous undertaking, but his +exertions may be best estimated by the perusal of the following +narrative. + +MR. BACK’S NARRATIVE OF HIS JOURNEY TO CHIPEWYAN, AND RETURN. + + +On quitting Fort Enterprise with Mr. Wentzel and two Canadians, +accompanied by two hunters and their wives, our route lay across the +barren hills. We saw during the day a number of deer and occasionally a +solitary white wolf, and in the evening halted near a small knot of +pines. Owing to the slow progress made by the wives of the hunters we +only travelled the first day a distance of seven miles and a half. +During the night we had a glimpse of the fantastic beauties of the +Aurora Borealis and were somewhat annoyed by the wolves whose nightly +howling interrupted our repose. Early the next morning we continued our +march, sometimes crossing small lakes (which were just frozen enough to +bear us) and at other times going large circuits in order to avoid +those which were open. The walking was extremely bad throughout the day +for, independent of the general unevenness of the ground and the +numberless large stones which lay scattered in every direction, the +unusual warmth of the weather had dissolved the snow which not only +kept us constantly wet but deprived us of a firm footing, so that the +men with their heavy burdens were in momentary apprehension of falling. +In the afternoon a fine herd of deer was descried and the Indians, who +are always anxious for the chase and can hardly be restrained from +pursuing every animal they see, set out immediately. It was late when +they returned, having had good success and bringing with them five +tongues and the shoulder of a deer. We made about twelve miles this +day. The night was fine and the Aurora Borealis so vivid that we +imagined more than once that we heard a rustling noise like that of +autumnal leaves stirred by the wind; but after two hours of attentive +listening we were not entirely convinced of the fact. The coruscations +were not so bright nor the transition from one shape and colour to +another so rapid as they sometimes are, otherwise I have no doubt from +the midnight silence which prevailed that we should have ascertained +this yet undecided point. + +The morning of the 20th was so extremely hazy that we could not see ten +yards before us; it was therefore late when we started and during our +journey the hunters complained of the weather and feared they should +lose the track of our route. Towards the evening it became so thick +that we could not proceed, consequently we halted in a small wood +situated in a valley, having only completed a distance of six miles. + +The scenery consisted of high hills which were almost destitute of +trees, and lakes appeared in the valleys. The cracking of the ice was +so loud during the night as to resemble thunder and the wolves howled +around us. We were now at the commencement of the woods and at an early +hour on the 21st continued our journey over high hills for three miles, +when the appearance of some deer caused us to halt and nearly the +remainder of the day was passed in hunting them. In the evening we +stopped within sight of Prospect Hill having killed and concealed six +deer. A considerable quantity of snow fell during the night. + +The surrounding country was extremely rugged, the hills divided by deep +ravines and the valleys covered with broken masses of rocks and stones; +yet the deer fly (as it were) over these impediments with apparent +ease, seldom making a false step, and springing from crag to crag with +all the confidence of the mountain goat. After passing Reindeer Lake +(where the ice was so thin as to bend at every step for nine miles) we +halted, perfectly satisfied with our escape from sinking into the +water. While some of the party were forming the encampment one of the +hunters killed a deer, a part of which was concealed to be ready for +use on our return. This evening we halted in a wood near the canoe +track after having travelled a distance of nine miles. The wind was +South-East and the night cloudy with wind and rain. + +On the 24th and 25th we underwent some fatigue from being obliged to go +round the lakes which lay across our route and were not sufficiently +frozen to bear us. Several rivulets appeared to empty themselves into +the lakes, no animals were killed and few tracks seen. The scenery +consisted of barren rocks and high hills covered with lofty pine, +birch, and larch trees. + +October 26. + +We continued our journey, sometimes on frozen lakes and at other times +on high craggy rocks. When we were on the lakes we were much impeded in +our journey by different parts which were unfrozen. There was a visible +increase of wood, consisting of birch and larch, as we inclined to the +southward. About ten A.M. we passed Icy Portage where we saw various +tracks of the moose, bear and otter and, after a most harassing march +through thick woods and over fallen trees, we halted a mile to the +westward of Fishing Lake; our provisions were now almost expended; the +weather was cloudy with snow. + +On the 27th we crossed two lakes and performed a circuitous route, +frequently crossing high hills to avoid those lakes which were not +frozen; during the day one of the women made a hole through the ice and +caught a fine pike which she gave to us; the Indians would not partake +of it from the idea (as we afterwards learnt) that we should not have +sufficient for ourselves: “We are accustomed to starvation,” said they, +“but you are not.” In the evening we halted near Rocky Lake. I +accompanied one of the Indians to the summit of a hill where he showed +me a dark horizontal cloud extending to a considerable distance along +the mountains in the perspective, which he said was occasioned by the +Great Slave Lake and was considered as a good guide to all the hunters +in the vicinity. On our return we saw two untenanted bears’ dens. + +The night was cloudy with heavy snow, yet the following morning we +continued our tedious march; many of the lakes remained still open and +the rocks were high and covered with snow which continued to fall all +day, consequently we effected but a trifling distance and that too with +much difficulty. In the evening we halted, having only performed about +seven miles. One of the Indians gave us a fish which he had caught +though he had nothing for himself; and it was with much trouble that he +could be prevailed upon to partake of it. The night was again cloudy +with snow. On the 29th we set out through deep snow and thick woods and +after crossing two small lakes stopped to breakfast, sending the women +on before as they had already complained of lameness and could not keep +pace with the party. It was not long before we overtook them on the +banks of a small lake which, though infinitely less in magnitude than +many we had passed, yet had not a particle of ice on its surface. It +was shoal, had no visible current, and was surrounded by hills. We had +nothing to eat and were not very near an establishment where food could +be procured; however as we proceeded the lakes were frozen and we +quickened our pace, stopping but twice for the hunters to smoke. +Nevertheless the distance we completed was but trifling, and at night +we halted near a lake, the men being tired and much bruised from +constantly falling amongst thick broken wood and loose stones concealed +under the snow. The night was blowing and hazy with snow. + +On the 30th we set out with the expectation of gaining the Slave Lake +in the evening; but our progress was again impeded by the same causes +as before so that the whole day was spent in forcing our way through +thick woods and over snow-covered swamps. We had to walk over pointed +and loose rocks which, sliding from under our feet, made our path +dangerous and often threw us down several feet on sharp-edged stones +lying beneath the snow. Once we had to climb a towering and almost +perpendicular rock which not only detained us but was the cause of +great anxiety for the safety of the women who, being heavily laden with +furs and one of them with a child at her back, could not exert +themselves with the activity which such a task required. Fortunately +nothing serious occurred though one of them once fell with considerable +violence. During the day one of the hunters broke through the ice but +was soon extricated; when it became dark we halted near the Bow String +Portage, greatly disappointed at not having reached the lake. The +weather was cloudy, accompanied with thick mist and snow. The Indians +expected to have found here a bear in its den and to have made a hearty +meal of its flesh, indeed it had been the subject of conversation all +day and they had even gone so far as to divide it, frequently asking me +what part I preferred, but when we came to the spot—oh! lamentable! it +had already fallen a prey to the devouring appetites of some more +fortunate hunters who had only left sufficient evidence that such a +thing had once existed, and we had merely the consolation of realising +an old proverb. One of our men however caught a fish which, with the +assistance of some weed scraped from the rocks (_tripe de roche_) which +forms a glutinous substance, made us a tolerable supper; it was not of +the most choice kind yet good enough for hungry men. While we were +eating it I perceived one of the women busily employed scraping an old +skin, the contents of which her husband presented us with. They +consisted of pounded meat, fat, and a greater proportion of Indians’ +and deers’ hair than either; and though such a mixture may not appear +very alluring to an English stomach it was thought a great luxury after +three days’ privation in these cheerless regions of America. Indeed had +it not been for the precaution and generosity of the Indians we must +have gone without sustenance until we reached the fort. + +On the 1st of November our men began to make a raft to enable us to +cross a river which was not even frozen at the edges. It was soon +finished and three of us embarked, being seated up to the ankles in +water. We each took a pine branch for a paddle and made an effort to +gain the opposite shore in which, after some time (and not without +strong apprehensions of drifting into the Slave Lake) we succeeded. In +two hours the whole party was over, with a comfortable addition to it +in the shape of some fine fish which the Indians had caught: of course +we did not forget to take these friends with us and, after passing +several lakes, to one of which we saw no termination, we halted within +eight miles to the fort. The Great Slave Lake was not frozen. + +In crossing a narrow branch of the lake I fell through the ice but +received no injury; and at noon we arrived at Fort Providence and were +received by Mr. Weeks, a clerk of the North-West Company in charge of +the establishment. I found several packets of letters for the officers, +which I was desirous of sending to them immediately but, as the Indians +and their wives complained of illness and inability to return without +rest, a flagon of mixed spirits was given them and their sorrows were +soon forgotten. In a quarter of an hour they pronounced themselves +excellent hunters and capable of going anywhere; however their boasting +ceased with the last drop of the bottle when a crying scene took place +which would have continued half the night had not the magic of an +additional quantity of spirits dried their tears and once more turned +their mourning into joy. It was a satisfaction to me to behold these +poor creatures enjoying themselves for they had behaved in the most +exemplary and active manner towards the party, and with a generosity +and sympathy seldom found even in the more civilised parts of the +world, and the attention and affection which they manifested towards +their wives evinced a benevolence of disposition and goodness of nature +which could not fail to secure the approbation of the most indifferent +observer. + +The accounts I here received of our goods were of so unsatisfactory a +nature that I determined to proceed, as soon as the lake was frozen, to +Moose-Deer Island or if necessary to the Athabasca Lake, both to inform +myself of the grounds of the unceremonious and negligent manner in +which the Expedition had been treated and to obtain a sufficient supply +of ammunition and other stores to enable it to leave its present +situation and proceed for the attainment of its ultimate object. + +November 9. + +I despatched to Fort Enterprise one of the men with the letters and a +hundred musket-balls which Mr. Weeks lent me on condition that they +should be returned the first opportunity. An Indian and his wife +accompanied the messenger. Lieutenant Franklin was made acquainted with +the exact state of things, and I awaited with much impatience the +freezing of the lake. + +November 16. + +A band of Slave Indians came to the fort with a few furs and some +bear’s grease. Though we had not seen any of them it appeared that they +had received information of our being in the country and knew the +precise situation of our house, which they would have visited long ago +but from the fear of being pillaged by the Copper Indians. I questioned +the chief about the Great Bear and Marten Lakes, their distance from +Fort Enterprise, etc., but his answers were so vague and unsatisfactory +that they were not worth attention; his description of Bouleau’s Route +(which he said was the shortest and best and abundant in animals) was +very defective though the relative points were sufficiently +characteristic had we not possessed a better route. He had never been +at the sea and knew nothing about the mouth of the Copper-Mine River. +In the evening he made his young men dance and sometimes accompanied +them himself. They had four feathers in each hand. One commenced moving +in a circular form, lifting both feet at the same time, similar to +jumping sideways. After a short time a second and third joined and +afterwards the whole band was dancing, some in a state of nudity, +others half dressed, singing an unmusical wild air with (I suppose) +appropriate words, the particular sounds of which were ha! ha! ha! +uttered vociferously and with great distortion of countenance and +peculiar attitude of body, the feathers being always kept in a +tremulous motion. The ensuing day I made the chief acquainted with the +object of our mission and recommended him to keep at peace with his +neighbouring tribes and to conduct himself with attention and +friendship towards the whites. I then gave him a medal, telling him it +was the picture of the King whom they emphatically term their Great +Father. + +November 18. + +We observed two mock moons at equal distances from the central one, and +the whole were encircled by a halo, the colour of the inner edge of the +large circle was a light red inclining to a faint purple. + +November 20. + +Two parhelia were observable with a halo; the colours of the inner edge +of the circle were a bright carmine and red lake intermingled with a +rich yellow, forming a purplish orange; the outer edge was pale +gamboge. + +December 5. + +A man was sent some distance on the lake to see if it was sufficiently +frozen for us to cross. I need scarcely mention my satisfaction when he +returned with the pleasing information that it was. + +December 7. + +I quitted Fort Providence, being accompanied by Mr. Wentzel, +Beauparlant, and two other Canadians, provided with dogs and sledges. +We proceeded along the borders of the lake, occasionally crossing deep +bays, and at dusk encamped at the _Gros Cap_, having proceeded +twenty-five miles. + +December 8. + +We set out on the lake with an excessively cold north-west wind and +were frequently interrupted by large pieces of ice which had been +thrown up by the violence of the waves during the progress of +congelation, and at dusk we encamped on the Reindeer Islands. + +The night was fine with a faint Aurora Borealis. Next day the wind was +so keen that the men proposed conveying me in a sledge that I might be +the less exposed, to which after some hesitation I consented. +Accordingly a reindeer skin and a blanket were laid along the sledge +and in these I was wrapped tight up to the chin and lashed to the +vehicle, just leaving sufficient play for my head to perceive when I +was about to be upset on some rough projecting piece of ice. Thus +equipped we set off before the wind (a favourable circumstance on the +lake) and went on very well until noon, when the ice, being driven up +in ridges in such a manner as to obstruct us very much, I was released, +and I confess not unwillingly though I had to walk the remainder of the +day. + +There are large openings in many parts where the ice had separated and, +in attempting to cross one of them, the dogs fell into the water and +were saved with difficulty. The poor animals suffered dreadfully from +the cold and narrowly escaped being frozen to death. We had quickened +our pace towards the close of the day but could not get sight of the +land, and it was not till the sun had set that we perceived it about +four miles to our left, which obliged us to turn back and head the +wind. It was then so cold that two of the party were frozen almost +immediately about the face and ears. I escaped from having the good +fortune to possess a pair of gloves made of rabbits’ skin with which I +kept constantly chafing the places which began to be affected. At six +P.M. we arrived at the fishing-huts near Stony Island and remained the +night there. The Canadians were not a little surprised at seeing us +whom they had already given up for lost—nor less so at the manner by +which we had come—for they all affirmed that the lake near them was +quite free from ice the day before. + +December 10. + +At an early hour we quitted the huts, lashed on sledges as before, with +some little addition to our party; and at three hours thirty minutes +P.M. arrived at the North-West Fort on Moose-Deer Island where I was +received by Mr. Smith with whom I had been acquainted at the Athabasca. +He said he partly expected me. The same evening I visited Messrs. +McVicar and McAulay at Hudson’s Bay Fort when I found the reports +concerning our goods were but too true, there being in reality but five +packages for us. I also was informed that two Esquimaux, Augustus the +chief, and Junius his servant, who had been sent from Fort Churchill by +Governor Williams to serve in the capacity of interpreters to the +Expedition, were at the fort. These men were short of stature but +muscular, apparently good-natured, and perfectly acquainted with the +purpose for which they were intended. They had built themselves a +snow-house on an adjacent island where they used frequently to sleep. +The following day I examined the pieces and to my great disappointment +found them to consist of three kegs of spirits, already adulterated by +the voyagers who had brought them, a keg of flour and thirty-five +pounds of sugar, instead of sixty. The ammunition and tobacco, the two +greatest requisites, were left behind. + +I lost no time in making a demand from both parties and, though their +united list did not furnish the half of what was required, yet it is +possible that everything was given by them which could be spared +consistently with their separate interests, particularly by Mr. McVicar +who in many articles gave me the whole he had in his possession. These +things were sent away immediately for Fort Enterprise, when an +interpreter arrived with letters from Lieutenant Franklin which +referred to a series of injurious reports said to have been propagated +against us by someone at Fort Providence. + +Finding a sufficiency of goods could not be provided at Moose-Deer +Island I determined to proceed to the Athabasca Lake and ascertain the +inclinations of the gentlemen there. With this view I communicated my +intentions to both parties but could only get dogs enough from the +North-West Company to carry the necessary provisions for the journey. +Indeed Mr. Smith informed me plainly he was of opinion that nothing +could be spared at Fort Chipewyan, that goods had never been +transported so long a journey in the winter season, and that the same +dogs could not possibly go and return; besides it was very doubtful if +I could be provided with dogs there; and finally that the distance was +great and could take sixteen days to perform it. He added that the +provisions would be mouldy and bad and that from having to walk +constantly on snowshoes I should suffer a great deal of misery and +fatigue. Notwithstanding these assertions on the 23rd of December I +left the fort with Beauparlant and a Bois-brule, each having a sledge +drawn by dogs, laden with pemmican. We crossed an arm of the lake and +entered the Little Buffalo River which is connected with the Salt River +and is about fifty yards wide at its junction with the lake—the water +is brackish. This route is usually taken in the winter as it cuts off a +large angle in going to the Great Slave River. In the afternoon we +passed two empty fishing-huts and in the evening encamped amongst some +high pines on the banks of the river having had several snow-showers +during the day which considerably impeded the dogs so that we had not +proceeded more than fifteen miles. + +December 24 and 25. + +We continued along the river, frequently making small portages to avoid +going round to the points, and passed some small canoes which the +Indians had left for the winter. The snow was so deep that the dogs +were obliged to stop every ten minutes to rest; and the cold so +excessive that both the men were badly frozen on both sides of the face +and chin. At length, having come to a long meadow which the dogs could +not cross that night, we halted in an adjoining wood and were presently +joined by a Canadian who was on his return to the fort and who treated +us with some fresh meat in exchange for pemmican. During the latter +part of the day we had seen numerous tracks of the moose, buffalo, and +marten. + +December 26. + +The weather was so cold that we were compelled to run to prevent +ourselves from freezing; our route lay across some large meadows which +appeared to abound in animals, though the Indians around Slave Lake are +in a state of great want. About noon we passed a sulphur-stream which +ran into the river; it appeared to come from a plain about fifty yards +distant. There were no rocks near it and the soil through which it took +its course was composed of a reddish clay. I was much galled by the +strings of the snowshoes during the day and once got a severe fall +occasioned by the dogs running over one of my feet and, dragging me +some distance, my snowshoe having become entangled with the sledge. In +the evening we lost our way from the great similarity of appearance in +the country and it was dark before we found it again when we halted in +a thick wood after having come about sixteen miles from the last +encampment. Much snow fell during the night. + +At an early hour on the 27th of December we continued our journey over +the surface of a long but narrow lake and then through a wood which +brought us to the _grand detour_ on the Slave River. The weather was +extremely cloudy with occasional falls of snow which tended greatly to +impede our progress from its gathering in lumps between the dogs’ toes; +and though they did not go very fast yet my left knee pained me so much +that I found it difficult to keep up with them. At three P.M. we halted +within nine miles of the Salt River and made a hearty meal of mouldy +pemmican. + +December 28 and 29. + +We had much difficulty in proceeding owing to the poor dogs being quite +worn out and their feet perfectly raw. We endeavoured to tie shoes on +them to afford them some little relief but they continually came off +when amongst deep snow so that it occupied one person entirely to look +after them. In this state they were hardly of any use among the steep +ascents of the portages, when we were obliged to drag the sledges +ourselves. We found a few of the rapids entirely frozen. Those that +were not had holes and large spaces about them from whence issued a +thick vapour, and in passing this we found it particularly cold; but +what appeared most curious was the number of small fountains which rose +through the ice and often rendered it doubtful which way we should +take. I was much disappointed at finding several falls (which I had +intended to sketch) frozen almost even with the upper and lower parts +of the stream; the ice was connected by a thin arch and the rushing of +the water underneath might be heard at a considerable distance. On the +banks of these rapids there was a constant overflowing of the water but +in such small quantities as to freeze before it had reached the surface +of the central ice so that we passed between two ridges of icicles, the +transparency of which was beautifully contrasted by the flakes of snow +and the dark green branches of the overhanging pine. + +Beauparlant complained bitterly of the cold whilst among the rapids but +no sooner had he reached the upper part of the river than he found the +change of the temperature so great that he vented his indignation +against the heat. “Mais c’est terrible,” said he, to be frozen and +sunburnt in the same day. The poor fellow, who had been a long time in +the country, regarded it as the most severe punishment that could have +been inflicted on him and would willingly have given a part of his +wages rather than this disgrace had happened; for there is a pride +amongst old Voyagers which makes them consider the state of being +frost-bitten as effeminate and only excusable in a Pork-eater or one +newly come into the country. I was greatly fatigued and suffered acute +pains in the knees and legs, both of which were much swollen when we +halted a little above the Dog River. + +December 30 and 31. + +Our journey these days was by far the most annoying we had yet +experienced but, independent of the vast masses of ice that were piled +on one another, as well as the numerous open places about the rapids +(and they did not a little impede us) there was a strong gale from the +north-west and so dreadfully keen that our time was occupied in rubbing +the frozen parts of the face and in attempting to warm the hands in +order to be prepared for the next operation. Scarcely was one place +cured by constant friction than another was frozen; and though there +was nothing pleasant about it yet it was laughable enough to observe +the dexterity which was used in changing the position of the hand from +the face to the mitten and _vice versâ_. One of the men was severely +affected, the whole side of his face being nearly raw. Towards sunset I +suffered so much in my knee and ankle from a recent sprain that it was +with difficulty I could proceed with snowshoes to the encampment on the +Stony Islands. But in this point I was not singular for Beauparlant was +almost as bad and without the same cause. + +January 1, 1821. + +We set out with a quick step, the wind still blowing fresh from the +north-west, which seemed in some measure to invigorate the dogs; for +towards sunset they left me considerably behind. Indeed my legs and +ankles were now so swelled that it was excessive pain to drag the +snowshoes after me. At night we halted on the banks of Stony River, +when I gave the men a glass of grog to commemorate the new year, and +the next day, January 2, we arrived at Fort Chipewyan, after a journey +of ten days and four hours—the shortest time in which the distance had +been performed at the same season. I found Messrs. G. Keith and S. +McGillivray in charge of the fort, who were not a little surprised to +see me. The commencement of the New Year is the rejoicing season of the +Canadians when they are generally intoxicated for some days. I +postponed making any demand till this time of festivity should cease; +but on the same day I went over to the Hudson’s Bay fort and delivered +Lieutenant Franklin’s letters to Mr. Simpson. If they were astonished +on one side to see me, the amazement was still greater on the other for +reports were so far in advance that we were said to have already fallen +by the spears of the Esquimaux. + +January 3. + +I made a demand from both parties for supplies such as ammunition, +gun-flints, axes, files, clothing, tobacco and spirits. I stated to +them our extreme necessity and that without their assistance the +Expedition must be arrested in its progress. The answer from the +North-West gentlemen was satisfactory enough; but on the Hudson’s Bay +side I was told that any further assistance this season entirely +depended on the arrival of supplies expected in a few weeks from a +distant establishment. I remained at Fort Chipewyan five weeks during +which time some laden sledges did arrive, but I could not obtain any +addition to the few articles I had procured at first. A packet of +letters for us from England having arrived I made preparations for my +return, but not before I had requested both Companies to send next year +from the depôts a quantity of goods for our use specified in lists +furnished to them. + +The weather during my abode at Chipewyan was generally mild with +occasional heavy storms, most of which were anticipated by the activity +of the Aurora Borealis; and this I observed had been the case between +Fort Providence and the Athabasca in December and January, though not +invariably so in other parts of the country. One of the partners of the +North-West Company related to me the following singular story: He was +travelling in a canoe in the English River and had landed near the +Kettle Fall when the coruscations of the Aurora Borealis were so vivid +and low that the Canadians fell on their faces and began praying and +crying, fearing they should be killed; he himself threw away his gun +and knife that they might not attract the flashes for they were within +two feet from the earth, flitting along with incredible swiftness and +moving parallel to its surface. They continued for upwards of five +minutes as near as he could judge and made a loud rustling noise like +the waving of a flag in a strong breeze. After they had ceased the sky +became clear with little wind. + +February 9. + +Having got everything arranged and had a hearty breakfast with a _coupe +de l’eau de vie_ (a custom amongst the traders) I took my departure or +rather attempted to do so for, on going to the gate, there was a long +range of women who came to bid me farewell. They were all dressed +(after the manner of the country) in blue or green cloth, with their +hair fresh greased, separated before, and falling down behind, not in +careless tresses but in a good sound tail, fastened with black tape or +riband. This was considered a great compliment and the ceremony +consisted in embracing the whole party. + +I had with me four sledges laden with goods for the Expedition and a +fifth belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company. We returned exactly by the +same route, suffering no other inconvenience but that arising from the +chafing of the snowshoe and bad weather. Some Indians whom we met on +the banks of the Little Buffalo River were rather surprised at seeing +us, for they had heard that we were on an island which was surrounded +by Esquimaux. The dogs were almost worn out and their feet raw when on +February the 20th we arrived at Moose-Deer Island with our goods all in +good order. Towards the end of the month two of our men arrived with +letters from Lieutenant Franklin containing some fresh demands, the +major part of which I was fortunate enough to procure without the least +trouble. Having arranged the accounts and receipts between the +Companies and the Expedition, and sent everything before me to Fort +Providence, I prepared for my departure; and it is but justice to the +gentlemen of both parties at Moose-Deer Island to remark that they +afforded the means of forwarding our stores in the most cheerful and +pleasant manner. + +March 5. + +I took leave of the gentlemen at the forts and in the afternoon got to +the fisheries near Stony Island where I found Mr. McVicar who was kind +enough to have a house ready for my reception; and I was not a little +gratified at perceiving a pleasant-looking girl employed in roasting a +fine joint and afterwards arranging the table with all the dexterity of +an accomplished servant. + +March 6. + +We set out at daylight and breakfasted at the Reindeer Islands. As the +day advanced the heat became so oppressive that each pulled off his +coat and ran till sunset when we halted with two men who were on their +return to Moose-Deer Island. There was a beautiful Aurora Borealis in +the night; it rose about North by West and divided into three bars, +diverging at equal distances as far as the zenith and then converging +until they met in the opposite horizon; there were some flashes at +right angles to the bars. + +March 7. + +We arrived at Fort Providence and found our stores safe and in good +order. There being no certainty when the Indian who was to accompany me +to our house would arrive, and my impatience to join my companions +increasing as I approached it, after making the necessary arrangements +with Mr. Weeks respecting our stores, on March the 10th I quitted the +fort with two of our men who had each a couple of dogs and a sledge +laden with provision. On the 13th we met the Indian near Icy Portage +who was sent to guide me back. On the 14th we killed a deer and gave +the dogs a good feed; and on the 17th at an early hour we arrived at +Fort Enterprise, having travelled about eighteen miles a day. I had the +pleasure of meeting my friends all in good health after an absence of +nearly five months, during which time I had travelled one thousand one +hundred and four miles on snowshoes, and had no other covering at night +in the woods than a blanket and deer-skin with the thermometer +frequently at minus 40° and once at minus 57°, and sometimes passing +two or three days without tasting food. + + + + +CHAPTER 9. + +CONTINUATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT FORT ENTERPRISE. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE +COPPER INDIANS. PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY TO THE NORTHWARD. + + +CONTINUATION OF PROCEEDINGS AT FORT ENTERPRISE. SOME ACCOUNT OF THE +COPPER INDIANS. + + +March 18, 1821. + +I shall now give a brief account of the Copper Indians termed by the +Chipewyans _Tantsawhot-dinneh_, or Birch-rind Indians. They were +originally a tribe of the Chipewyans and, according to their own +account, inhabited the south side of Great Slave Lake at no very +distant period. Their language, traditions, and customs, are +essentially the same with those of the Chipewyans but in personal +character they have greatly the advantage of that people, owing +probably to local causes or perhaps to their procuring their food more +easily and in greater abundance. They hold women in the same low +estimation as the Chipewyans do, looking upon them as a kind of +property which the stronger may take from the weaker whenever there is +just reason for quarrelling, if the parties are of their own nation, or +whenever they meet if the weaker party are Dog-Ribs or other strangers. +They suffer however the kinder affections to show themselves +occasionally; they in general live happily with their wives, the women +are contented with their lot, and we witnessed several instances of +strong attachment. Of their kindness to strangers we are fully +qualified to speak; their love of property, attention to their +interests, and fears for the future made them occasionally clamorous +and unsteady; but their delicate and humane attention to us in a season +of great distress at a future period are indelibly engraven on our +memories. Of their notions of a Deity or future state we never could +obtain any satisfactory account; they were unwilling perhaps to expose +their opinions to the chance of ridicule. Akaitcho generally evaded our +questions on these points but expressed a desire to learn from us and +regularly attended Divine Service during his residence at the fort, +behaving with the utmost decorum. + +This leader indeed and many others of his tribe possess a laudable +curiosity which might easily be directed to the most important ends; +and I believe that a well-conducted Christian mission to this quarter +would not fail of producing the happiest effect. Old Keskarrah alone +used boldly to express his disbelief of a Supreme Deity and state that +he could not credit the existence of a Being whose power was said to +extend everywhere but whom he had not yet seen, although he was now an +old man. The aged sceptic is not a little conceited as the following +exordium to one of his speeches evinces: “It is very strange that I +never meet with anyone who is equal in sense to myself.” The same old +man in one of his communicative moods related to us the following +tradition: The earth had been formed but continued enveloped in total +darkness, when a bear and a squirrel met on the shores of a lake; a +dispute arose as to their respective powers, which they agreed to +settle by running in opposite directions round the lake, and whichever +arrived first at the starting point was to evince his superiority by +some signal act of power. The squirrel beat, ran up a tree, and loudly +demanded light which, instantly beaming forth, discovered a bird +dispelling the gloom with its wings; the bird was afterwards recognised +to be a crow. The squirrel next broke a piece of bark from the tree, +endowed it with the power of floating, and said, “Behold the material +which shall afford the future inhabitants of the earth the means of +traversing the waters.” + +The Indians are not the first people who have ascribed the origin of +nautics to the ingenuity of the squirrel. The Copper Indians consider +the bear, otter, and other animals of prey, or rather some kind of +spirits which assume the forms of these creatures, as their constant +enemies and the cause of every misfortune they endure; and in seasons +of difficulty or sickness they alternately deprecate and abuse them. + +Few of this nation have more than one wife at a time and none but the +leaders have more than two. Akaitcho has three and the mother of his +only son is the favourite. They frequently marry two sisters and there +is no prohibition to the intermarriage of cousins but a man is +restricted from marrying his niece. + +The last war excursion they made against the Esquimaux was ten years +ago when they destroyed about thirty persons at the mouth of what they +term Stony-Point River, not far from the mouth of the Copper-Mine +River. They now seem desirous of being on friendly terms with that +persecuted nation and hope through our means to establish a lucrative +commerce with them. Indeed the Copper Indians are sensible of the +advantages that would accrue to them were they made the carriers of +goods between the traders and Esquimaux. + +At the time of Hearne’s visit the Copper Indians, being unsupplied with +firearms, were oppressed by the Chipewyans; but even that traveller had +occasion to praise their kindness of heart. Since they have received +arms from the traders the Chipewyans are fearful of venturing upon +their lands; and all of that nation who frequent the shores of Great +Slave Lake hold the name of Akaitcho in great respect. The Chipewyans +have no leader of equal authority among themselves. + +The number of the Copper Indians may be one hundred and ninety souls +namely eighty men and boys and one hundred and ten women and young +children. There are forty-five hunters in the tribe. The adherents of +Akaitcho amount to about forty men and boys; the rest follow a number +of minor chiefs. + +For the following notices of the nations on Mackenzie’s River we are +principally indebted to Mr. Wentzel who resided for many years in that +quarter. + +The _Thlingchadinneh_, or Dog-Ribs, or, as they are sometimes termed +after the Crees, who formerly warred against them, _Slaves_, inhabit +the country to the westward of the Copper Indians as far as Mackenzie’s +River. They are of a mild, hospitable, but rather indolent disposition; +spend much of their time in amusements and are fond of singing and +dancing. In this respect and in another they differ very widely from +most of the other aborigines of North America. I allude to their kind +treatment of the women. The men do the laborious work whilst their +wives employ themselves in ornamenting their dresses with quill-work +and in other occupations suited to their sex. Mr. Wentzel has often +known the young married men to bring specimens of their wives’ +needlework to the forts and exhibit them with much pride. Kind +treatment of the fair sex being usually considered as an indication of +considerable progress in civilisation it might be worthwhile to inquire +how it happens that this tribe has stepped so far beyond its +neighbours. It has had undoubtedly the same common origin with the +Chipewyans, for their languages differ only in accent, and their mode +of life is essentially the same. We have not sufficient data to +prosecute the inquiry with any hope of success but we may recall to the +reader’s memory what was formerly mentioned, that the Dog-Ribs say they +came from the westward, whilst the Chipewyans say that they migrated +from the eastward. + +When bands of Dog-Ribs meet each other after a long absence they +perform a kind of dance. A piece of ground is cleared for the purpose, +if in winter of the snow, or if in summer of the bushes; and the dance +frequently lasts for two or three days, the parties relieving each +other as they get tired. The two bands commence the dance with their +backs turned to each other, the individuals following one another in +Indian file and holding the bow in the left hand and an arrow in the +right. They approach obliquely after many turns and, when the two lines +are closely back to back, they feign to see each other for the first +time and the bow is instantly transferred to the right hand and the +arrow to the left, signifying that it is not their intention to employ +them against their friends. At a fort they use feathers instead of +bows. The dance is accompanied with a song. These people are the +dancing-masters of the country. The Copper Indians have neither dance +nor music but what they borrow from them. On our first interview with +Akaitcho at Fort Providence he treated us as has already been mentioned +with a representation of the Dog-Rib Dance; and Mr. Back during his +winter journey had an opportunity of observing it performed by the +Dog-Ribs themselves. + +The chief tribe of the Dog-Rib nation, termed Horn Mountain Indians, +inhabit the country betwixt Great Bear Lake and the west end of Great +Slave Lake. They muster about two hundred men and boys capable of +pursuing the chase. Small detachments of the nation frequent Marten +Lake and hunt during the summer in the neighbourhood of Fort +Enterprise. Indeed this part of the country was formerly exclusively +theirs, and most of the lakes and remarkable hills bear the names which +they imposed upon them. As the Copper Indians generally pillage them of +their women and furs when they meet they endeavour to avoid them and +visit their ancient quarters on the barren grounds only by stealth. + +Immediately to the northward of the Dog-Ribs, on the north side of Bear +Lake River, are the _Kawcho-dinneh_ or Hare Indians who also speak a +dialect of the Chipewyan language and have much of the same manners +with the Dog-Ribs, but are considered both by them and by the Copper +Indians to be great conjurors. These people report that in their +hunting excursions to the northward of Great Bear Lake they meet small +parties of Esquimaux. + +Immediately to the northward of the Hare Indians on both banks of +Mackenzie’s River are the _Tykothee-dinneh_, Loucheux, Squint-Eyes, or +Quarrellers. They speak a language distinct from the Chipewyan. They +war often with the Esquimaux at the mouth of Mackenzie’s River but have +occasionally some peaceable intercourse with them, and it would appear +that they find no difficulty in understanding each other, there being +considerable similarity in their languages. Their dress also resembles +the Esquimaux and differs from that of the other inhabitants of +Mackenzie’s River. The Tykothee-dinneh trade with Fort Good-Hope, +situated a considerable distance below the confluence of Bear Lake +River with Mackenzie’s River and, as the traders suppose, within three +days’ march of the Arctic Sea. It is the most northern establishment of +the North-West Company, and some small pieces of Russian copper coin +once made their way thither across the continent from the westward. +Blue or white beads are almost the only articles of European +manufacture coveted by the Loucheux. They perforate the septum of the +nose and insert in the opening three small shells which they procure at +a high price from the Esquimaux. + +On the west bank of Mackenzie’s River there are several tribes who +speak dialects of the Chipewyan language that have not hitherto been +mentioned. The first met with on tracing the river to the southward +from Fort Good-Hope are the _Ambawtawhoot-dinneh_, or Sheep Indians. +They inhabit the Rocky Mountains near the sources of the Dawhootdinneh +River which flows into Mackenzie’s and are but little known to the +traders. Some of them have visited Fort Good-Hope. A report of their +being cannibals may have originated in an imperfect knowledge of them. + +Some distance to the southward of this people are the Rocky Mountain +Indians, a small tribe which musters about forty men and boys capable +of pursuing the chase. They differ but little from the next we are +about to mention, the _Edchawtawhoot-dinneh_, Strong-bow, Beaver, or +Thickwood Indians who frequent the _Rivière aux Liards_ or south branch +of Mackenzie’s River. The Strong-bows resemble the Dog-Ribs somewhat in +their disposition; but when they meet they assume a considerable degree +of superiority over the latter who meekly submit to the haughtiness of +their neighbours. Until the year 1813 when a small party of them, from +some unfortunate provocation, destroyed Fort Nelson on the _Rivière aux +Liards_ and murdered its inmates, the Strong-bows were considered to be +a friendly and quiet tribe and esteemed as excellent hunters. They take +their names in the first instance from their dogs. A young man is the +father of a certain dog but when he is married and has a son he styles +himself the father of the boy. The women have a habit of reproving the +dogs very tenderly when they observe them fighting: “Are you not +ashamed,” say they, “are you not ashamed to quarrel with your little +brother?” The dogs appear to understand the reproof and sneak off. + +The Strong-bows and Rocky Mountain Indians have a tradition in common +with the Dog-Ribs that they came originally from the westward, from a +level country where there was no winter, which produced trees and large +fruits now unknown to them. It was inhabited also by many strange +animals, amongst which there was a small one whose visage bore a +striking resemblance to the human countenance. During their residence +in this land their ancestors were visited by a man who healed the sick, +raised the dead, and performed many other miracles, enjoining them at +the same time to lead good lives and not to eat of the entrails of +animals, nor to use the brains for dressing skins until after the third +day; and never to leave the skulls of deer upon the ground within the +reach of dogs and wolves but to hang them carefully upon trees. No one +knew from whence this good man came or whither he went. They were +driven from that land by the rising of the waters and, following the +tracks of animals on the seashore, they directed their course to the +northward. At length they came to a strait which they crossed upon a +raft but the sea has since frozen and they have never been able to +return. These traditions are unknown to the Chipewyans. + +The number of men and boys of the Strong-bow nation who are capable of +hunting may amount to seventy. + +There are some other tribes who also speak dialects of the Chipewyan +upon the upper branches of the Rivière aux Liards such as the +_Nohhannies_ and the _Tsillawdawhoot-dinneh_ or Brushwood Indians. They +are but little known but the latter are supposed occasionally to visit +some of the establishments on Peace River. + +Having now communicated as briefly as I could the principal facts that +came to our knowledge regarding the Indians in this quarter I shall +resume the narrative of events at Fort Enterprise. The month of March +proved fine. The thermometer rose once to 24° above zero and fell upon +another day 49° below zero but the mean was minus 11 1/2°. + +On the 23rd the last of our winter’s stock of deer’s meat was expended +and we were compelled to issue a little pounded meat which we had +reserved for making pemmican for summer use. Our nets which were set +under the ice on the 15th produced only two or three small fish daily. +Amongst these was the round-fish, a species of Coregonus which we had +not previously seen. + +On the following day two Indians came with a message from the Hook, the +chief next to Akaitcho in authority amongst the Copper Indians. His +band was between West Marten and Great Bear Lakes and he offered to +provide a quantity of dried meat for us on the banks of the Copper-Mine +River in the beginning of summer, provided we sent him goods and +ammunition. It was in his power to do this without inconvenience as he +generally spends the summer months on the banks of the river near the +Copper Mountain; but we had no goods to spare and I could not venture +to send any part of our small stock of ammunition until I saw what the +necessities of our own party required. I told them however that I would +gladly receive either provisions or leather when we met and would pay +for them by notes on the North-West Company’s post; but to prevent any +misunderstanding with Mr. Weeks I requested them to take their winter’s +collection of furs to Fort Providence before they went to the +Copper-Mine River. They assured me that the Hook would watch anxiously +for our passing as he was unwell and wished to consult the doctor. + +Several circumstances having come lately to my knowledge that led me to +suspect the fidelity of our interpreters they were examined upon this +subject. It appeared that in their intercourse with the Indians they +had contracted very fearful ideas of the danger of our enterprise which +augmented as the time of our departure drew near, and had not hesitated +to express their dislike to the journey in strong terms amongst the +Canadians, who are accustomed to pay much deference to the opinions of +an interpreter. But this was not all; I had reason to suspect they had +endeavoured to damp the exertions of the Indians with the hope that the +want of provision in the spring would put an end to our progress at +once. St. Germain in particular had behaved in a very equivocal way +since his journey to Slave Lake. He denied the principal parts of the +charge in a very dogged manner but acknowledged he had told the leader +that we had not paid him the attention which a chief like him ought to +have received; and that we had put a great affront on him in sending +him only a small quantity of rum. An artful man like St. Germain, +possessing a flow of language and capable of saying even what he +confessed, had the means of poisoning the minds of the Indians without +committing himself by any direct assertion; and it is to be remarked +that, unless Mr. Wentzel had possessed a knowledge of the Copper Indian +language, we should not have learned what we did. + +Although perfectly convinced of his baseness I could not dispense with +his services; and had no other resource but to give him a serious +admonition and desire him to return to his duty, after endeavouring to +work upon his fears by an assurance that I would certainly convey him +to England for trial if the Expedition should be stopped through his +fault. He replied, “It is immaterial to me where I lose my life, +whether in England or in accompanying you to the sea, for the whole +party will perish.” After this discussion however he was more +circumspect in his conduct. + +On the 28th we received a small supply of meat from the Indian lodges. +They had now moved into a lake about twelve miles from us, in +expectation of the deer coming soon to the northward. + +PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY TO THE NORTHWARD. + + +On the 29th Akaitcho arrived at the house, having been sent for to make +some arrangements respecting the procuring of provision and that we +might learn what his sentiments were with regard to accompanying us on +our future journey. Next morning we had a conference which I commenced +by showing him the charts and drawings that were prepared to be sent to +England, and explaining fully our future intentions. He appeared much +pleased at this mark of attention and, when his curiosity was +satisfied, began his speech by saying that although a vast number of +idle rumours had been floating about the barren grounds during the +winter he was convinced that the representations made to him at Fort +Providence regarding the purport of the Expedition were perfectly +correct. I next pointed out to him the necessity of our proceeding with +as little delay as possible during the short period of the year that +was fit for our operations, and that to do so it was requisite we +should have a large supply of provisions at starting. He instantly +admitted the force of these observations and promised that he and his +young men should do their utmost to comply with our desires, and +afterwards in answer to my questions informed us that he would +accompany the Expedition to the mouth of the Copper-Mine River or, if +we did not meet with Esquimaux there, for some distance along the +coast; he was anxious he said to have an amicable interview with that +people, and he further requested that, in the event of our meeting with +Dog-Ribs on the Copper-Mine River, we should use our influence to +persuade them to live on friendly terms with his tribe. We were highly +pleased to find his sentiments so favourable to our views and, after +making some minor arrangements, we parted mutually content. He left us +on the morning of the 31st, accompanied by Augustus who, at his +request, went to reside for a few days at his lodge. + +On the 4th of April our men arrived with the last supply of goods from +Fort Providence, the fruits of Mr. Back’s arduous journey to the +Athabasca Lake, and on the 17th Belanger _le gros_ and Belanger _le +rouge_, for so our men discriminated them, set out for Slave Lake with +a box containing the journals of the officers, charts, drawings, +observations, and letters addressed to the Secretary of State for +Colonial Affairs. They also conveyed a letter for Governor Williams in +which I requested that he would if possible send a schooner to Wager +Bay with provisions and clothing to meet the exigencies of the party +should they succeed in reaching that part of the coast. + +Connoyer, who was much tormented with biliary calculi and had done +little or no duty all the winter, was discharged at the same time and +sent down in company with an Indian named the Belly. + +The commencement of April was fine and for several days a considerable +thaw took place in the heat of the sun which, laying bare some of the +lichens on the sides of the hills, produced a consequent movement of +the reindeer to the northward and induced the Indians to believe that +the spring was already commencing. Many of them therefore quitted the +woods and set their snares on the barren grounds near Fort Enterprise. +Two or three days of cold weather however towards the middle of the +month damped their hopes, and they began to say that another moon must +elapse before the arrival of the wished-for season. In the meantime +their premature departure from the woods caused them to suffer from +want of food and we were in some degree involved in their distress. We +received no supplies from the hunters, our nets produced but very few +fish, and the pounded meat which we had intended to keep for summer use +was nearly expended. Our meals at this period were always scanty and we +were occasionally restricted to one in the day. + +The Indian families about the house, consisting principally of women +and children, suffered most. I had often requested them to move to +Akaitcho’s lodge where they were more certain of receiving supplies +but, as most of them were sick or infirm, they did not like to quit the +house, where they daily received medicines from Dr. Richardson, to +encounter the fatigue of following the movements of a hunting camp. +They cleared away the snow on the site of the autumn encampments to +look for bones, deer’s feet, bits of hide, and other offal. When we +beheld them gnawing the pieces of hide and pounding the bones for the +purpose of extracting some nourishment from them by boiling we +regretted our inability to relieve them, but little thought that we +should ourselves be afterwards driven to the necessity of eagerly +collecting these same bones a second time from the dunghill. + +At this time, to divert the attention of the men from their wants, we +encouraged the practice of sliding down the steep bank of the river +upon sledges. These vehicles descended the snowy bank with much +velocity and ran a great distance upon the ice. The officers joined in +the sport and the numerous overturns we experienced formed no small +share of the amusement of the party, but on one occasion, when I had +been thrown from my seat and almost buried in the snow, a fat Indian +woman drove her sledge over me and sprained my knee severely. + +On the 18th at eight in the evening a beautiful halo appeared round the +sun when it was about 8° high. The colours were prismatic and very +bright, the red next the sun. + +On the 21st the ice in the river was measured and found to be five feet +thick and, in setting the nets in Round Rock Lake, it was there +ascertained to be six feet and a half thick, the water being six +fathoms deep. The stomachs of some fish were at this time opened by Dr. +Richardson and found filled with insects which appear to exist in +abundance under the ice during the winter. + +On the 22nd a moose-deer was killed at the distance of forty-five +miles; St. Germain went for it with a dog-sledge and returned with +unusual expedition on the morning of the third day. This supply was +soon exhausted and we passed the 27th without eating, with the prospect +of fasting a day or two longer, when old Keskarrah entered with the +unexpected intelligence of having killed a deer. It was divided betwixt +our own family and the Indians and during the night a seasonable supply +arrived from Akaitcho. Augustus returned with the men who brought it, +much pleased with the attention he had received from the Indians during +his visit to Akaitcho. + +Next day Mr. Wentzel set out with every man that we could spare from +the fort for the purpose of bringing meat from the Indians as fast as +it could be procured. Dr. Richardson followed them two days afterwards +to collect specimens of the rocks in that part of the country. On the +same day the two Belangers arrived from Fort Providence having been +only five days on the march from thence. + +The highest temperature in April was plus 40°, the lowest minus 32°, +the mean plus 4.6°. The temperature of the rapid, examined on the 30th +by Messrs. Back and Hood, was 32° at the surface, 33° at the bottom. + +On the 7th of May Dr. Richardson returned. He informed me that the +reindeer were again advancing to the northward but that the leader had +been joined by several families of old people and that the daily +consumption of provision at the Indian tents was consequently great. +This information excited apprehensions of being very scantily provided +when the period of our departure should arrive. + +The weather in the beginning of May was fine and warm. On the 2nd some +patches of sandy ground near the house were cleared of snow. On the 7th +the sides of the hills began to appear bare and on the 8th a large +house-fly was seen. This interesting event spread cheerfulness through +our residence and formed a topic of conversation for the rest of the +day. + +On the 9th the approach of spring was still more agreeably confirmed by +the appearance of a merganser and two gulls, and some loons or arctic +divers, at the rapid. This day to reduce the labour of dragging meat to +the house the women and children and all the men except four were sent +to live at the Indian tents. + +The blueberries, crow-berries, eye-berries, and cranberries, which had +been covered and protected by the snow during the winter might at this +time be gathered in abundance and proved indeed a valuable resource. +The ground continued frozen but the heat of the sun had a visible +effect on vegetation; the sap thawed in the pine-trees and Dr. +Richardson informed me that the mosses were beginning to shoot and the +calyptrae of some of the jungermanniae already visible. + +On the 11th Mr. Wentzel returned from the Indian lodges having made the +necessary arrangements with Akaitcho for the drying of meat for summer +use, the bringing fresh meat to the fort and the procuring a sufficient +quantity of the resin of the spruce fir, or as it is termed by the +voyagers _gum_, for repairing the canoes previous to starting and +during the voyage. By my desire he had promised payment to the Indian +women who should bring in any of the latter article and had sent +several of our own men to the woods to search for it. At this time I +communicated to Mr. Wentzel the mode in which I meant to conduct the +journey of the approaching summer. Upon our arrival at the sea I +proposed to reduce the party to what would be sufficient to man two +canoes in order to lessen the consumption of provisions during our +voyage or journey along the coast and, as Mr. Wentzel had expressed a +desire of proceeding no farther than the mouth of the Copper-Mine +River, which was seconded by the Indians who wished him to return with +them, I readily relieved his anxiety on this subject, the more so as I +thought he might render greater service to us by making deposits of +provision at certain points than by accompanying us through a country +which was unknown to him, and amongst a people with whom he was totally +unacquainted. My intentions were explained to him in detail but they +were of course to be modified by circumstances. + +On the 14th a robin (_Turdus migratorius_) appeared; this bird is +hailed by the natives as the infallible precursor of warm weather. +Ducks and geese were also seen in numbers and the reindeer advanced to +the northward. The merganser (_Mergus serrator_) which preys upon small +fish, was the first of the duck tribe that appeared; next came the teal +(_Anas crecca_) which lives upon small insects that abound in the +waters at this season; and lastly the goose which feeds upon berries +and herbage. Geese appear at Cumberland House in latitude 54° usually +about the 12th of April; at Fort Chipewyan in latitude 59° on the 25th +of April; at Slave Lake in latitude 61° on the 1st of May; and at Fort +Enterprise in latitude 64° 28′ on the 12th or 14th of the same month. + +On the 16th a minor chief amongst the Copper Indians attended by his +son arrived from Fort Providence to consult Dr. Richardson. He was +affected with snow-blindness which was soon relieved by the dropping of +a little laudanum into his eyes twice a day. Most of our own men had +been lately troubled with this complaint but it always yielded in +twenty or thirty hours to the same remedy. + +On the 21st all our men returned from the Indians and Akaitcho was on +his way to the fort. In the afternoon two of his young men arrived to +announce his visit and to request that he might be received with a +salute and other marks of respect that he had been accustomed to on +visiting Fort Providence in the spring. I complied with his desire +although I regretted the expenditure of ammunition and sent the young +man away with the customary present of powder to enable him to return +the salute, some tobacco, vermilion to paint their faces, a comb and a +looking-glass. + +At eleven Akaitcho arrived; at the first notice of his appearance the +flag was hoisted at the fort and upon his nearer approach a number of +muskets were fired by a party of our people and returned by his young +men. Akaitcho, preceded by his standard-bearer, led the party and +advanced with a slow and stately step to the door where Mr. Wentzel and +I received him. The faces of the party were daubed with vermilion, the +old men having a spot on the right cheek, the young ones on the left. +Akaitcho himself was not painted. On entering he sat down on a chest, +the rest placed themselves in a circle on the floor. The pipe was +passed once or twice round and in the meantime a bowl of spirits and +water and a present considerable for our circumstances of cloth, +blankets, capots, shirts, etc., was placed on the floor for the chief’s +acceptance and distribution amongst his people. Akaitcho then commenced +his speech but I regret to say that it was very discouraging and +indicated that he had parted with his good humour, at least since his +March visit. He first inquired whether, in the event of a passage by +sea being discovered, we should come to his lands in any ship that +might be sent? And being answered that it was probable but not quite +certain that someone amongst us might come, he expressed a hope that +some suitable present should be forwarded to himself and nation, “for” +said he, “the great Chief who commands where all the goods come from +must see from the drawings and descriptions of us and our country that +we are a miserable people.” I assured him that he would be remembered, +provided he faithfully fulfilled his engagement with us. + +He next complained of the non-payment of my notes by Mr. Weeks, from +which he apprehended that his own reward would be withheld. “If,” said +he, “your notes to such a trifling amount are not accepted whilst you +are within such a short distance and can hold communication with the +fort, it is not probable that the large reward which has been promised +to myself and party will be paid when you are far distant on your way +to your own country. It really appears to me,” he continued, “as if +both the Companies consider your party as a third company, hostile to +their interests, and that neither of them will pay the notes you give +to the Indians.” + +Afterwards in the course of a long conference he enumerated many other +grounds of dissatisfaction, the principal of which were our want of +attention to him as chief, the weakness of the rum formerly sent to +him, the smallness of the present now offered, and the want of the +chief’s clothing, which he had been accustomed to receive at Fort +Providence every spring. He concluded by refusing to receive the goods +now laid before him. + +In reply to these complaints it was stated that Mr. Weeks’ conduct +could not be properly discussed at such a distance from his fort, that +no dependence ought to be placed on the vague reports that floated +through the Indian territory, that for our part, although we had heard +many stories to his (Akaitcho’s) disadvantage, we discredited them all, +that the rum we had sent him, being what the great men in England were +accustomed to drink, was of a milder kind but in fact stronger than +what he had been accustomed to receive, and that the distance we had +come and the speed with which we travelled precluded us from bringing +large quantities of goods like the traders, that this had been fully +explained to him when he agreed to accompany us and that, in +consideration of his not receiving his usual spring outfit, his debts +to the Company had been cancelled and a present, much greater than any +he had ever received before, ordered to be got ready for his return. He +was further informed that we were much disappointed in not receiving +any dried meat from him, an article indispensable for our summer voyage +and which he had led us to believe there was no difficulty in +procuring, and that in fact his complaints were so groundless in +comparison with the real injury we sustained from the want of supplies +that we were led to believe they were preferred solely for the purpose +of cloaking his own want of attention to the terms of his engagement. +He then shifted his ground and stated that if we endeavoured to make a +voyage along the sea-coast we should inevitably perish, and he advised +us strongly against persisting in the attempt. This part of his +harangue, being an exact transcript of the sentiments formerly +expressed by our interpreters, induced us to conclude that they had +prompted his present line of conduct by telling him that we had goods +or rum concealed. He afterwards received a portion of our dinner in the +manner he had been accustomed to do, and seemed inclined to make up +matters with us in the course of the evening, provided we added to the +present offered to him. Being told however that this was impossible +since we had already offered him all the rum we had and every article +of goods we could spare from our own equipment his obstinacy was a +little shaken, and he made some concessions but deferred giving a final +answer until the arrival of Humpy his elder brother. The young men +however did not choose to wait so long and at night came for the rum, +which we judged to be a great step towards a reconciliation. + +St. Germain, the most intelligent of our two interpreters and the one +who had most influence with the Indians, being informed that their +defection was in a great measure attributed to the unguarded +conversations he had held with them, and which he had in part +acknowledged, exerted himself much on the following day in bringing +about a change in their sentiments and with some success. The young +men, though they declined hunting, conducted themselves with the same +good humour and freedom as formerly. Akaitcho being as he said ashamed +to show himself kept close in his tent all day. + +On the 24th one of the women who accompanied us from Athabasca was sent +down to Fort Providence under charge of the old chief who came some +days before for medicine for his eyes. Angelique and Roulante, the +other two women, having families, preferred accompanying the Indians +during their summer hunt. On the 25th clothing and other necessary +articles were issued to the Canadians as their equipment for the +ensuing voyage. Two or three blankets, some cloth, ironwork, and +trinkets were reserved for distribution amongst the Esquimaux on the +sea-coast. Laced dresses were given to Augustus and Junius. It is +impossible to describe the joy that took possession of the latter on +the receipt of this present. The happy little fellow burst into +ecstatic laughter as he surveyed the different articles of his gay +habiliments.[24] + + [24] These men kept their dresses and delighted in them. An Indian + chief on the other hand only appears once before the donor in the + dress of ceremony which he receives and then transfers it to some + favourite in the tribe whom he desires to reward by this robe of + honour. + + +In the afternoon Humpy the leader’s elder brother, Annoethaiyazzeh, +another of his brothers, and one of our guides arrived with the +remainder of Akaitcho’s band; as also Long-legs, brother to the Hook, +with three of his band. There were now in the encampment thirty +hunters, thirty-one women, and sixty children, in all one hundred and +twenty-one of the Copper Indian or Red-Knife tribe. The rest of the +nation were with the Hook on the lower part of the Copper-Mine River. + +Annoethaiyazzeh is remarkable amongst the Indians for the number of his +descendants; he has eighteen children living by two wives, of whom +sixteen were at the fort at this time. + +In the evening we had another formidable conference. The former +complaints were reiterated and we parted about midnight without any +satisfactory answer to my questions as to when Akaitcho would proceed +towards the river and where he meant to make provision for our march. I +was somewhat pleased however to find that Humpy and Annoethaiyazzeh +censured their brother’s conduct and accused him of avarice. + +On the 26th the canoes were removed from the places where they had been +deposited as we judged that the heat of the atmosphere was now so great +as to admit of their being repaired without risk of cracking the bark. +We were rejoiced to find that two of them had suffered little injury +from the frost during the winter. The bark of the third was +considerably rent but it was still capable of repair. + +The Indians sat in conference in their tents all the morning and in the +afternoon came into the house charged with fresh matter for discussion. + +Soon after they had seated themselves and the room was filled with the +customary volume of smoke from their calumets the goods which had been +laid aside were again presented to the leader, but he at once refused +to distribute so small a quantity amongst his men and complained that +there were neither blankets, kettles, nor daggers amongst them, and in +the warmth of his anger he charged Mr. Wentzel with having advised the +distribution of all our goods to the Canadians and thus defrauding the +Indians of what was intended for them. Mr. Wentzel of course +immediately repelled this injurious accusation and reminded Akaitcho +again that he had been told on engaging to accompany us that he was not +to expect any goods until his return. This he denied with an effrontery +that surprised us all, when Humpy, who was present at our first +interview at Fort Providence, declared that he heard us say that no +goods could be taken for the supply of the Indians on the voyage; and +the first guide added, “I do not expect anything here, I have promised +to accompany the white people to the sea and I will therefore go, +confidently relying upon receiving the stipulated reward on my return.” +Akaitcho did not seem prepared to hear such declarations from his +brothers and, instantly changing the subject, began to descant upon the +treatment he had received from the traders in his concerns with them +with an asperity of language that bore more the appearance of menace +than complaint. I immediately refused to discuss this topic as foreign +to our present business and desired Akaitcho to recall to memory that +he had told me on our first meeting that he considered me the father of +every person attached to the Expedition, in which character it was +surely my duty to provide for the comfort and safety of the Canadians +as well as the Indians. The voyagers, he knew, had a long journey to +perform and would in all probability be exposed to much suffering from +cold on a coast destitute of wood, and therefore required a greater +provision of clothing than was necessary for the Indians who, by +returning immediately from the mouth of the river, would reach Fort +Providence in August and obtain their promised rewards. Most of the +Indians appeared to assent to this argument but Akaitcho said, “I +perceive the traders have deceived you; you should have brought more +goods but I do not blame you.” I then told him that I had brought from +England only ammunition, tobacco, and spirits and that, being ignorant +what other articles the Indians required, we were dependent on the +traders for supplies, but he must be aware that every endeavour had +been used on our parts to procure them, as was evinced by Mr. Back’s +journey to Fort Chipewyan. With respect to the ammunition and tobacco +we had been as much disappointed as themselves in not receiving them, +but this was to be attributed to the neglect of those to whom they had +been entrusted. This explanation seemed to satisfy him. After some +minutes of reflection his countenance became more cheerful and he made +inquiry whether his party might go to either of the trading posts they +chose on their return, and whether the Hudson’s Bay Company were rich, +for they had been represented to him as a poor people? I answered him +that we really knew nothing about the wealth of either Company, having +never concerned ourselves with trade, but that all the traders appeared +to us to be respectable. Our thoughts I added are fixed solely on the +accomplishment of the objects for which we came to the country. Our +success depends much on your furnishing us with provision speedily, +that we may have all the summer to work and, if we succeed, a ship will +soon bring goods in abundance to the mouth of the Copper-Mine River. +The Indians talked together for a short time after this conversation +and then the leader made an application for two or three kettles and +some blankets to be added to the present to his young men; we were +unable to spare him any kettles but the officers promised to give a +blanket each from their own beds. + +Dinner was now brought in and relieved us for a time from their +importunity. The leading men as usual received each a portion from the +table. When the conversation was resumed the chief renewed his +solicitations for goods, but it was now too palpable to be mistaken +that he aimed at getting everything he possibly could and leaving us +without the means of making any presents to the Esquimaux or other +Indians we might meet. I resolved therefore on steadily refusing every +request and, when he perceived that he could extort nothing more, he +rose in an angry manner and, addressing his young men, said: “There are +too few goods for me to distribute; those that mean to follow the white +people to the sea may take them.” + +This was an incautious speech as it rendered it necessary for his party +to display their sentiments. The guides and most of the hunters +declared their readiness to go and came forward to receive a portion of +the present which was no inconsiderable assortment. This relieved a +weight of anxiety from my mind and I did not much regard the leader’s +retiring in a very dissatisfied mood. + +The hunters then applied to Mr. Wentzel for ammunition that they might +hunt in the morning and it was cheerfully given to them. + +The officers and men amused themselves at prison-bars and other +Canadian games till two o’clock in the morning, and we were happy to +observe the Indians sitting in groups enjoying the sport. We were +desirous of filling up the leisure moments of the Canadians with +amusements, not only for the purpose of enlivening their spirits but +also to prevent them from conversing upon our differences with the +Indians, which they must have observed. The exercise was also in a +peculiar manner serviceable to Mr. Hood. Ever ardent in his pursuits he +had, through close attention to his drawings and other avocations, +confined himself too much to the house in winter, and his health was +impaired by his sedentary habits. I could only take the part of a +spectator in these amusements, being still lame from the hurt formerly +alluded to. + +The sun now sank for so short a time below the horizon that there was +more light at midnight than we enjoyed on some days at noon in the +wintertime. + +On the 27th the hunters brought in two reindeer. Many of the Indians +attended divine service this day and were attentive spectators of our +addresses to the Almighty. + +On the 28th I had a conversation with Long-legs whose arrival two days +before has been mentioned. I acquainted him with the objects of our +Expedition and our desire of promoting peace between his nation and the +Esquimaux, and learned from him that his brother the Hook was by this +time on the Copper-Mine River with his party and that, although he had +little ammunition, yet it was possible he might have some provision +collected before our arrival at his tents. I then decorated him with a +medal similar to those given to the other chiefs. He was highly pleased +with this mark of our regard and promised to do everything for us in +his power. Akaitcho came in during the latter part of our conversation +with a very cheerful countenance. Jealousy of the Hook and a knowledge +that the sentiments of the young men differed from his own with respect +to the recent discussions had combined to produce this change in his +conduct, and next morning he took an opportunity of telling me that I +must not think the worse of him for his importunities. It was their +custom he said to do so however strange it might appear to us, and he +as the leader of his party had to beg for them all; but as he saw we +had not deceived him by concealing any of our goods and that we really +had nothing left he should ask for no more. He then told me that he +would set out for the river as soon as the state of the country +admitted of travelling. The snow he remarked was still too deep for +sledges to the northward and the moss too wet to make fires. He was +seconded in this opinion by Long-legs whom I was the more inclined to +believe knowing that he was anxious to rejoin his family as soon as +possible. + +Akaitcho now accepted the dress he had formerly refused and next day +clothed himself in another new suit which he had received from us in +the autumn. Ever since his arrival at the fort he had dressed meanly +and pleaded poverty but, perceiving that nothing more could be gained +by such conduct, he thought proper to show some of his riches to the +strangers who were daily arriving. In the afternoon however he made +another though a covert attack upon us. He informed me that two old men +had just arrived at the encampment with a little pounded meat which +they wished to barter. It was evident his intention was merely to +discover whether we had any goods remaining or not. I told him that we +had nothing at present to give for meat, however much we stood in need +of it, but that we would pay for it by notes on the North-West Company +in any kind of goods they pleased. After much artful circumlocution and +repeated assurances of the necessities of the men who owned the meat he +introduced them and they readily agreed to give us the provision on our +own terms. + +I have deemed it my duty to give the details of these tedious +conversations to point out to future travellers the art with which +these Indians pursue their objects, their avaricious nature, and the +little reliance that can be placed upon them when their interests jar +with their promises. In these respects they agree with other tribes of +northern Indians but, as has been already mentioned, their dispositions +are not cruel and their hearts are readily moved by the cry of +distress. + +The average temperature for May was nearly 32°, the greatest heat was +68°, the lowest 8°. + +We had constant daylight at the end of the month and geese and ducks +were abundant, indeed rather too much so for our hunters were apt to +waste upon them the ammunition that was given to them for killing deer. +Uncertain as to the length of time that it might be required to last we +did not deem a goose of equal value with the charge it cost to procure +it. + +Dr. Richardson and Mr. Back having visited the country to the northward +of the Slave Rock and reported that they thought we might travel over +it I signified my intention of sending the first party off on Monday +the 4th of June. I was anxious to get the Indians to move on before, +but they lingered about the house, evidently with the intention of +picking up such articles as we might deem unnecessary to take. When +Akaitcho was made acquainted with my purpose of sending away a party of +men he came to inform me that he would appoint two hunters to accompany +them and at the same time requested that Dr. Richardson or, as he +called him, the Medicine Chief, might be sent with his own band. These +Indians set a great value upon medicine and made many demands upon Dr. +Richardson on the prospect of his departure. He had to make up little +packets of the different articles in his chest, not only for the leader +but for each of the minor chiefs who carefully placed them in their +medicine bags, noting in their memories the directions he gave for +their use. The readiness with which their requests for medical +assistance were complied with was considered by them as a strong mark +of our good intentions towards them and the leader often remarked that +they owed much to our kindness in that respect, that formerly numbers +had died every year but that not a life had been lost since our arrival +amongst them. In the present instance however the leader’s request +could not be complied with. Dr. Richardson had volunteered to conduct +the first party to the Copper-Mine River whilst the rest of the +officers remained with me to the last moment to complete our +astronomical observations at the house. He therefore informed the +leader that he would remain stationary at Point Lake until the arrival +of the whole party, where he might be easily consulted if any of his +people fell sick as it was in the neighbourhood of their hunting +grounds. + +On the 2nd the stores were packed up in proper-sized bales for the +journey. I had intended to send the canoes by the first party but they +were not yet repaired, the weather not being sufficiently warm for the +men to work constantly at them without the hazard of breaking the bark. +This day one of the new trading guns which we had recently received +from Fort Chipewyan burst in the hands of a young Indian, fortunately +however without doing him any material injury. This was the sixth +accident of the kind which had occurred since our departure from Slave +Lake. Surely this deficiency in the quality of the guns, which hazards +the lives of so many poor Indians, requires the serious consideration +of the principals of the trading Companies. + +On the 4th at three in the morning the party under the charge of Dr. +Richardson started. It consisted of fifteen voyagers, three of them +conducting dog sledges, Baldhead and Basil, two Indian hunters with +their wives, Akaiyazzeh a sick Indian and his wife, together with +Angelique and Roulante, so that the party amounted to twenty-three +exclusive of children. + +The burdens of the men were about eighty pounds each, exclusive of +their personal baggage which amounted to nearly as much more. Most of +them dragged their loads upon sledges but a few preferred carrying them +on their backs. They set off in high spirits. + +After breakfast the Indians struck their tents, and the women, the +boys, and the old men who had to drag sledges, took their departure. It +was three P.M. however before Akaitcho and the hunters left us. We +issued thirty balls to the leader and twenty to each of the hunters and +guides with a proportionate quantity of powder, and gave them +directions to make all the provision they could on their way to Point +Lake. I then desired Mr. Wentzel to inform Akaitcho in the presence of +the other Indians that I wished a deposit of provision to be made at +this place previous to next September as a resource should we return +this way. He and the guides not only promised to see this done but +suggested that it would be more secure if placed in the cellar or in +Mr. Wentzel’s room. The Dog-Ribs, they said, would respect anything +that was in the house as knowing it to belong to the white people. At +the close of this conversation Akaitcho exclaimed with a smile, “I see +now that you have really no goods left (the rooms and stores being +completely stripped) and therefore I shall not trouble you any more but +use my best endeavours to prepare provision for you, and I think if the +animals are tolerably numerous we may get plenty before you can embark +on the river.” + +Whilst the Indians were packing up this morning one of the women +absconded. She belongs to the Dog-Rib tribe and had been taken by force +from her relations by her present husband who treated her very harshly. +The fellow was in my room when his mother announced the departure of +his wife and received the intelligence with great composure as well as +the seasonable reproof of Akaitcho. “You are rightly served,” said the +chief to him, “and will now have to carry all your things yourself +instead of having a wife to drag them.” One hunter remained after the +departure of the other Indians. + +On the 5th the Dog-Rib woman presented herself on a hill at some +distance from the house, but was afraid to approach us until the +interpreter went and told her that neither we nor the Indian who +remained with us would prevent her from going where she pleased. Upon +this she came to solicit a fire-steel and kettle. She was at first +low-spirited from the non-arrival of a countrywoman who had promised to +elope with her, but had probably been too narrowly watched. The Indian +hunter however, having given her some directions as to the proper mode +of joining her own tribe, she became more composed and ultimately +agreed to adopt his advice of proceeding at once to Fort Providence +instead of wandering about the country all summer in search of them at +the imminent hazard of being starved. + +On the 7th the wind, shifting to the southward, dispersed the clouds +which had obscured the sky for several days and produced a change of +temperature under which the snow rapidly disappeared. The thermometer +rose to 73°, many flies came forth, mosquitoes showed themselves for +the first time, and one swallow made its appearance. We were the more +gratified with these indications of summer that St. Germain was enabled +to commence the repair of the canoes, and before night had completed +the two which had received the least injury. Augustus killed two deer +today. + +On the 10th the dip of the magnetic needle, being observed, showed a +decrease of 22′ 44″ since last autumn. The repairs of the third canoe +were finished this evening. + +The snow was now confined to the bases of the hills and our Indian +hunter told us the season was early. The operations of nature however +seemed to us very tardy. We were eager to be gone and dreaded the lapse +of summer before the Indians would allow it had begun. + +On the 11th the geese and ducks had left the vicinity of Fort +Enterprise and proceeded to the northward. Some young ravens and +whiskey-johns made their appearance at this time. + +On the 12th Winter River was nearly cleared of ice and on the 13th the +men returned, having left Dr. Richardson on the borders of Point Lake. +Dr. Richardson informed me by letter that the snow was deeper in many +parts near his encampment than it had been at any time last winter near +Fort Enterprise, and that the ice on Point Lake had scarcely begun to +decay. Although the voyagers were much fatigued on their arrival, and +had eaten nothing for the last twenty-four hours, they were very +cheerful and expressed a desire to start with the remainder of the +stores next morning. The Dog-Rib woman, who had lingered about the +house since the 6th of June, took alarm at the approach of our men, +thinking perhaps that they were accompanied by Indians, and ran off. +She was now provided with a hatchet, kettle, and fire-steel, and would +probably go at once to Fort Providence in the expectation of meeting +with some of her countrymen before the end of summer. + + + + +CHAPTER 10.[25] + + + [25] It will be seen hereafter that I had the misfortune to lose my + portfolio containing my journals from Fort Enterprise to the 14th of + September. But the loss has been amply redeemed by my brother + officers’ journals from which the narrative up to that period has been + chiefly compiled. + +DEPARTURE FROM FORT ENTERPRISE. NAVIGATION OF THE COPPER-MINE RIVER. +VISIT TO THE COPPER MOUNTAIN. INTERVIEW WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. DEPARTURE +OF THE INDIAN HUNTERS. ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH THEM FOR OUR RETURN. + + +DEPARTURE FROM FORT ENTERPRISE. + + +June 14, 1821. + +The trains for the canoes having been finished during the night the +party attached to them commenced their journey at ten this morning. +Each canoe was dragged by four men assisted by two dogs. They took the +route of Winter Lake with the intention of following, although more +circuitous, the watercourse as far as practicable, it being safer for +the canoes than travelling overland. After their departure the +remaining stores, the instruments, and our small stock of dried meat, +amounting only to eighty pounds, were distributed equally among +Hepburn, three Canadians, and the two Esquimaux; with this party and +two Indian hunters we quitted Fort Enterprise, most sincerely rejoicing +that the long-wished-for day had arrived when we were to proceed +towards the final object of the Expedition. + +We left in one of the rooms a box containing a journal of the +occurrences up to this date, the charts and some drawings, which was to +be conveyed to Fort Chipewyan by Mr. Wentzel on his return from the sea +and thence to be sent to England. The room was blocked up and, by the +advice of Mr. Wentzel, a drawing representing a man holding a dagger in +a threatening attitude was affixed to the door to deter any Indians +from breaking it open. We directed our course towards the Dog-Rib Rock +but, as our companions were loaded with the weight of near one hundred +and eighty pounds each, we of necessity proceeded at a slow pace. The +day was extremely warm and the mosquitoes, whose attacks had hitherto +been feeble, issued forth in swarms from the marshes and were very +tormenting. Having walked five miles we encamped near a small cluster +of pines about two miles from the Dog-Rib Rock. The canoe party had not +been seen since they set out. Our hunters went forward to Marten Lake, +intending to wait for us at a place where two deer were deposited. At +nine P.M. the temperature of the air was 63°. + +We resumed our march at an early hour and crossed several lakes which +lay in our course as the ice enabled the men to drag their burdens on +trains formed of sticks and deers’ horns with more ease than they could +carry them on their backs. We were kept constantly wet by this +operation as the ice had broken near the shores of the lakes but this +was little regarded as the day was unusually warm, the temperature at +two P.M. being at 82 1/2°. At Marten Lake we joined the canoe party and +encamped with them. We had the mortification of learning from our +hunters that the meat they had put _en cache_ here had been destroyed +by the wolverines, and we had in consequence to furnish the supper from +our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind changed from South-East to +North-East in the evening and the weather became very cold, the +thermometer being at 43° at nine P.M. The few dwarf birches we could +collect afforded fire insufficient to keep us warm and we retired under +the covering of our blankets as soon as the supper was despatched. The +North-East breeze rendered the night so extremely cold that we procured +but little sleep, having neither fire nor shelter for, though we +carried our tents, we had been forced to leave the tent-poles which we +could not now replace; we therefore gladly recommenced the journey at +five in the morning and travelled through the remaining part of the +lake on the ice. Its surface being quite smooth the canoes were dragged +along expeditiously by the dogs, and the rest of the party had to walk +very quick to keep pace with them, which occasioned many severe falls. +By the time we had reached the end of the lake the wind had increased +to a perfect gale and the atmosphere was so cold that we could not +proceed farther with the canoes without the risk of breaking the bark +and seriously injuring them; we therefore crossed Winter River in them +and put up in a well-sheltered place on a ridge of sandhills but, as +the stock of provision was scanty, we determined on proceeding as quick +as possible and leaving the canoe party under the charge of Mr. +Wentzel. We parted from them in the afternoon, and first directed our +course towards a range of hills where we expected to find Antonio +Fontano, who had separated from us in the morning. In crossing towards +these hills I fell through the ice into the lake with my bundle on my +shoulders but was soon extricated without any injury, and Mr. Back, who +left us to go in search of the straggler, met with a similar accident +in the evening. We put up on a ridge of sandhills where we found some +pines, and made a large fire to apprise Mr. Back and Fontano of our +position. St. Germain having killed a deer in the afternoon we received +an acceptable supply of meat. The night was stormy and very cold. + +At five the next morning our men were sent in different directions +after our absent companions, but as the weather was foggy we despaired +of finding them unless they should chance to hear the muskets our +people were desired to fire. They returned however at ten, bringing +intelligence of them. I went immediately with Hepburn to join Mr. Back +and directed Mr. Hood to proceed with the Canadians and halt with them +at the spot where the hunters had killed a deer. Though Mr. Back was +much fatigued he set off with me immediately, and in the evening we +rejoined our friends on the borders of the Big Lake. The Indians +informed us that Fontano only remained a few hours with them and then +continued his journey. We had to oppose a violent gale and frequent +snowstorms through the day, which unseasonable weather caused the +temperature to descend below the freezing-point this evening. The +situation of our encampment being bleak, and our fuel stunted green +willows, we passed a very cold and uncomfortable night. + +June 18. + +Though the breeze was moderate this morning the air was piercingly +keen. When on the point of starting we perceived Mr. Wentzel’s party +coming, and awaited his arrival to learn whether the canoes had +received any injury during the severe weather of yesterday. Finding +they had not we proceeded to get upon the ice on the lake, which could +not be effected without walking up to the waist in water for some +distance from its borders. We had not the command of our feet in this +situation and the men fell often; poor Junius broke through the ice +with his heavy burden on his back but fortunately was not hurt. + +This lake is extensive and large arms branch from its main course in +different directions. At these parts we crossed the projecting points +of land and on each occasion had to wade as before, which so wearied +everyone that we rejoiced when we reached its north side and encamped, +though our resting-place was a bare rock. We had the happiness of +finding Fontano at this place. The poor fellow had passed the three +preceding days without tasting food and was exhausted by anxiety and +hunger. His sufferings were considered to have been a sufficient +punishment for his imprudent conduct in separating from us, and I only +admonished him to be more cautious in future. + +Having received information that the hunters had killed a deer we sent +three men to fetch the meat, which was distributed between our party +and the canoe-men who had been encamped near to us. The thermometer at +three P.M. was 46°, at nine 34°. + +We commenced the following day by crossing a lake about four miles in +length and then passed over a succession of rugged hills for nearly the +same distance. The men, being anxious to reach some pine-trees which +they had seen on their former journey, walked at a quick pace though +they were suffering from swelled legs and rheumatic pains; we could not +however attain the desired point and therefore encamped on the +declivity of a hill which sheltered us from the wind, and used the +reindeer moss for fuel, which afforded us more warmth than we expected. +Several patches of snow were yet remaining on the surrounding hills. +The thermometer varied today between 55 and 45°. + +On the 20th of June we began our march by crossing a small lake, not +without much risk as the surface of the ice was covered with water to +the depth of two feet and there were many holes into which we slipped +in spite of our efforts to avoid them. A few of the men, being fearful +of attempting the traverse with their heavy loads, walked round the +eastern end of the lake. The parties met on the sandy ridge which +separates the streams that fall into Winter Lake from those that flow +to the northward; and here we killed three deer. Near the base of this +ridge we crossed a small but rapid stream in which there is a +remarkable cascade of about fifty feet. Some Indians joined us here and +gave information respecting the situation of Dr. Richardson’s tent, +which our hunters considered was sufficient for our guidance, and +therefore proceeded as quickly as they could. We marched a few miles +farther in the evening and encamped among some pines; but the comfort +of a good fire did not compensate for the torment we suffered from the +host of mosquitoes at this spot. The temperature was 52°. + +We set off next morning at a very early hour. The men took the course +of Point Lake that they might use their sledges, but the officers +pursued the nearest route by land to Dr. Richardson’s tent, which we +reached at eleven A.M. It was on the western side of an arm of the lake +and near the part through which the Copper-Mine River runs. Our men +arrived soon after us and in the evening Mr. Wentzel and his party, +with the canoes in excellent condition. They were much jaded by their +fatiguing journey and several were lame from swellings of the lower +extremities. The ice on the lake was still six or seven feet thick and +there was no appearance of its decay except near the edges and, as it +was evident that, by remaining here until it should be removed, we +might lose every prospect of success in our undertaking, I determined +on dragging our stores along its surface until we should come to a part +of the river where we could embark, and directions were given this +evening for each man to prepare a train for the conveyance of his +portion of the stores. I may remark here, as a proof of the strong +effect of radiation from the earth in melting the ice, that the largest +holes in the ice were always formed at the base of the high and steep +cliffs which abound on the borders of this lake. + +We found Akaitcho and the hunters encamped here but their families and +the rest of the tribe had gone off two days before to the Bethseeto, a +large lake to the northward where they intended passing the summer. +Long-legs and Keskarrah had departed to desire the Hook to collect as +much meat as he could against our arrival at his lodge. We were +extremely distressed to learn from Dr. Richardson that Akaitcho and his +party had expended all the ammunition they had received at Fort +Enterprise without having contributed any supply of provision. The +Doctor had however, through the assistance of two hunters he kept with +him, prepared two hundred pounds of dried meat, which was now our sole +dependence for the journey. On the following morning I represented to +Akaitcho that we had been greatly disappointed by his conduct which was +so opposite to the promise of exertion he had made on quitting Fort +Enterprise. He offered many excuses but, finding they were not +satisfactory, admitted that the greater part of the ammunition had been +given to those who accompanied the women to the Bethseeto, and promised +to behave better in future. I then told him that I intended in future +to give them ammunition only in proportion to the meat which was +brought in, and that we should commence upon that plan by supplying him +with fifteen balls, and each of the hunters with ten. + +The number of our hunters was now reduced to five as two of the most +active declined going any farther, their father, who thought himself +dying, having solicited them to remain and close his eyes. These five +were furnished with ammunition and sent forward to hunt on the south +border of the lake, with directions to place any meat they might +procure near the edge of the lake and set up marks to guide us to the +spots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and three other men remained +to accompany us. We were much surprised to perceive an extraordinary +difference in climate in so short an advance to the northward as fifty +miles. The snow here was lying in large patches on the hills. The +dwarf-birch and willows were only just beginning to open their buds +which had burst forth at Fort Enterprise many days before our +departure. Vegetation seemed to be three weeks or a month later here +than at that place. We had heavy showers of rain through the night of +the 22nd which melted the snow and visibly wasted the ice. + +On the 23rd the men were busily employed in making their trains and in +pounding the meat for pemmican. The situation of the encampment was +ascertained latitude 65° 12′ 40″ North, longitude 113° 8′ 25″ West, and +the variation 43° 4′ 20″ East. The arrangements being completed we +purposed commencing our journey next morning, but the weather was too +stormy to venture upon the lake with the canoes. In the afternoon a +heavy fall of snow took place, succeeded by sleet and rain. The +north-east gale continued but the thermometer rose to 39°. + +June 25. + +The wind having abated in the night we prepared for starting at an +early hour. The three canoes were mounted on sledges and nine men were +appointed to conduct them, having the assistance of two dogs to each +canoe. The stores and provisions were distributed equally among the +rest of our men, except a few small articles which the Indians carried. +The provision consisted of only two bags of pemmican, two of pounded +meat, five of suet, and two small bundles of dried provision, together +with fresh meat sufficient for our supper at night. It was gratifying +to witness the readiness with which the men prepared for and commenced +a journey which threatened to be so very laborious, as each of them had +to drag upwards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his sledge. + +Our course led down the main channel of the lake, which varied in +breadth from half a mile to three miles; but we proceeded at a slow +pace as the snow which fell last night and still lay on the ice very +much impeded the sledges. Many extensive arms branched off on the north +side of this channel and it was bounded on the south by a chain of +lofty islands. The hills on both sides rose to six or seven hundred +feet and high steep cliffs were numerous. Clusters of pines were +occasionally seen in the valleys. We put up at eight P.M. in a spot +which afforded us but a few twigs for fuel. The party was much fatigued +and several of the men were affected by an inflammation on the inside +of the thigh attended with hardness and swelling. The distance made +today was six miles. + +We started at ten next morning. The day was extremely hot and the men +were soon jaded; their lameness increased very much and some not +previously affected began to complain. The dogs too showed symptoms of +great weakness, and one of them stretched himself obstinately on the +ice and was obliged to be released from the harness. We were therefore +compelled to encamp at an early hour, having come only four miles. The +sufferings of the people in this early stage of our journey were truly +discouraging to them and very distressing to us, whose situation was +comparatively easy. I therefore determined on leaving the third canoe +which had been principally carried to provide against any accident to +the others. We should thus gain three men to lighten the loads of those +who were most lame, and an additional dog for each of the other canoes. +It was accordingly properly secured on a stage erected for the purpose +near the encampment. Dried meat was issued for supper but in the course +of the evening the Indians killed two deer for which we immediately +sent. + +The channel of the lake through which we had passed today was bounded +on both sides by islands of considerable height, presenting bold and +rugged scenery. We were informed by our guide that a large body of the +lake lies to the northward of a long island which we passed. + +Another deer was killed next morning but, as the men breakfasted off it +before they started, the additional weight was not materially felt. The +burdens of the men being considerably lightened by the arrangements of +last evening, the party walked at the rate of one mile and +three-quarters an hour until the afternoon, when our pace was slackened +as the ice was more rough and our lame companions felt their sores very +galling. At noon we passed a deep bay on the south side which is said +to receive a river. Throughout the day’s march the hills on each side +of the lake bore a strong resemblance in height and form to those about +Fort Enterprise. We encamped on the north main shore among some spruce +trees, having walked eight miles and a half. Three or four fish were +caught with lines through holes which the water had worn in the ice. We +perceived a light westerly current at these places. + +It rained heavily during the night and this was succeeded by a dense +fog on the morning of the 28th. Being short of provisions we commenced +our journey though the points of land were not discernible beyond a +short distance. The surface of the ice, being honeycombed by the recent +rains, presented innumerable sharp points which tore our shoes and +lacerated the feet at every step. The poor dogs too marked their path +with their blood. + +NAVIGATION OF THE COPPER-MINE RIVER. + + +In the evening the atmosphere became clear and at five P.M. we reached +the rapid by which Point Lake communicates with Red-Rock Lake. This +rapid is only one hundred yards wide and we were much disappointed at +finding the Copper-Mine River such an inconsiderable stream. The canoes +descended the rapid but the cargoes were carried across the peninsula +and placed again on the sledges as the next lake was still frozen. We +passed an extensive arm branching to the eastward, and encamped just +below it on the western bank among spruce pines, having walked six +miles of direct distance. The rolled stones on the beach are +principally red clay slate, hence its Indian appellation which we have +retained. + +We continued our journey at the usual hour next morning. At noon the +variation was observed to be 47° East. Our attention was afterwards +directed to some pine branches scattered on the ice which proved to be +marks placed by our hunters to guide us to the spot where they had +deposited the carcasses of two small deer. This supply was very +seasonable and the men cheerfully dragged the additional weight. +Akaitcho, judging from the appearance of the meat, thought it had been +placed here three days ago and that the hunters were considerably in +advance. We put up at six P.M. near the end of the lake, having come +twelve miles and three-quarters, and found the channel open by which it +is connected with the Rock-nest Lake. A river was pointed out bearing +south from our encampment, which is said to rise near Great Marten +Lake. Red-Rock Lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks are well +clothed with wood and even the hills, which attain an elevation of four +hundred or five hundred feet, are ornamented halfway up with stunted +pines. + +On June 30 the men, having gummed the canoes, embarked with their +burdens to descend the river; but we accompanied the Indians about five +miles across a neck of land, when we also embarked. The river was about +two hundred yards wide and, its course being uninterrupted, we +cherished a sanguine hope of now getting on more speedily, until we +perceived that the waters of Rock-nest Lake were still bound by ice and +that recourse must again be had to the sledges. The ice was much +decayed and the party were exposed to great risk of breaking through in +making the traverse. In one part we had to cross an open channel in the +canoes, and in another were compelled to quit the Lake and make a +portage along the land. When the party had got upon the ice again our +guide evinced much uncertainty as to the route. He first directed us +towards the west end of the lake but, when we had nearly gained that +point, he discovered a remarkable rock to the north-east, named by the +Indians the Rock-nest, and then recollected that the river ran at its +base. Our course was immediately changed to that direction, but the +traverse we had then to make was more dangerous than the former one. +The ice cracked under us at every step and the party were obliged to +separate widely to prevent accidents. We landed at the first point we +could approach but, having found an open channel close to the shore, +were obliged to ferry the goods across on pieces of ice. The fresh meat +being expended we had to make another inroad on our pounded meat. The +evening was very warm and the mosquitoes numerous. A large fire was +made to apprise the hunters of our advance. The scenery of Rock-nest +Lake is picturesque, its shores are rather low except at the Rock-nest, +and two or three eminences on the eastern side. The only wood is the +pine which is twenty or thirty feet high and about one foot in +diameter. Our distance today was six miles. + +July 1. + +Our guide directed us to proceed towards a deep bay on the north side +of the lake where he supposed we should find the river. In consequence +of the bad state of the ice we employed all the different modes of +travelling we had previously followed in attaining this place and, in +crossing a point of land, had the misfortune to lose one of the dogs, +which set off in pursuit of some reindeer. Arriving at the bay we only +found a stream that fell into it from the north-east and looked in vain +for the Copper-Mine River. This circumstance confused the guide and he +confessed that he was now doubtful of the proper route; we therefore +halted and despatched him with two men to look for the river from the +top of the high hills near the Rock-nest. During this delay a slight +injury was repaired which one of the canoes had received. We were here +amused by the sight of a wolf chasing two reindeer on the ice. The +pursuer, being alarmed at the sight of our men, gave up the chase when +near to the hindmost, much to our regret for we were calculating upon +the chance of sharing in his capture. + +At four P.M. our men returned with the agreeable information that they +had seen the river flowing at the base of the Rock-nest. The canoes and +stores were immediately placed on the ice and dragged thither; we then +embarked but soon had to cut through a barrier of drift ice that +blocked up the way. We afterwards descended two strong rapids and +encamped near the discharge of a small stream which flows from an +adjoining lake. The Copper-Mine River at this point is about two +hundred yards wide and ten feet deep, and flows very rapidly over a +rocky bottom. The scenery of its banks is picturesque, the hills shelve +to the waterside and are well covered with wood, and the surface of the +rocks is richly ornamented with lichens. The Indians say that the same +kind of country prevails as far as Mackenzie’s River in this parallel, +but that the land to the eastward is perfectly barren. Akaitcho and one +of the Indians killed two deer which were immediately sent for. Two of +the hunters arrived in the night and we learned that their companions, +instead of being in advance as we supposed, were staying at the place +where we first found the river open. They had only seen our fires last +evening and had sent to examine who we were. The circumstance of having +passed them was very vexatious as they had three deer _en cache_ at +their encampment. However an Indian was sent to desire those who +remained to join us and bring the meat. + +We embarked at nine A.M. on July 2nd and descended a succession of +strong rapids for three miles. We were carried along with extraordinary +rapidity, shooting over large stones upon which a single stroke would +have been destructive to the canoes; and we were also in danger of +breaking them, from the want of the long poles which lie along their +bottoms and equalise their cargoes, as they plunged very much, and on +one occasion the first canoe was almost filled with the waves. But +there was no receding after we had once launched into the stream, and +our safety depended on the skill and dexterity of the bowmen and +steersmen. The banks of the river here are rocky and the scenery +beautiful, consisting of gentle elevations and dales wooded to the edge +of the stream and flanked on both sides at the distance of three or +four miles by a range of round-backed barren hills, upwards of six +hundred feet high. At the foot of the rapids the high lands recede to a +greater distance and the river flows with a more gentle current in a +wider channel through a level and open country consisting of alluvial +sand. In one place the passage was blocked up by drift ice still deeply +covered with snow. A channel for the canoes was made for some distance +with the hatchets and poles but, on reaching the more compact part, we +were under the necessity of transporting the canoes and cargoes across +it, an operation of much hazard as the snow concealed the numerous +holes which the water had made in the ice. This expansion of the river +being mistaken by the guide for a lake which he spoke of as the last on +our route to the sea, we supposed that we should have no more ice to +cross, and therefore encamped after passing through it, to fit the +canoes properly for the voyage and to provide poles, which are not only +necessary to strengthen them when placed in the bottom, but essentially +requisite for the safe management of them in dangerous rapids. The +guide began afterwards to doubt whether the lake he meant was not +farther on, and he was sent with two men to examine into the fact, who +returned in the evening with the information of its being below us but +that there was an open channel through it. This day was very sultry and +several plants appeared in flower. + +The men were employed in repairing their canoes to a late hour and +commenced very early next morning as we were desirous of availing +ourselves of every part of this favourable weather. The hunters arrived +in the course of the night. It appeared that the dog which escaped from +us two days ago came into the vicinity of their encampment, howling +piteously; seeing him without his harness they came to the hasty +conclusion that our whole party had perished in a rapid and, throwing +away part of their baggage and leaving the meat behind them, they set +off with the utmost haste to join Long-legs. Our messenger met them in +their flight but too far advanced to admit of their returning for the +meat. Akaitcho scolded them heartily for their thoughtlessness in +leaving the meat, which we so much wanted. They expressed their regret +and, being ashamed of their panic, proposed to remedy the evil as much +as possible by going forward without stopping until they came to a +favourable spot for hunting, which they expected to do about thirty or +forty miles below our present encampment. Akaitcho accompanied them but +previous to setting off he renewed his charge that we should be on our +guard against the bears, which was occasioned by the hunters having +fired at one is morning as they were descending a rapid in their canoe. +As their small canoes would only carry five persons two of the hunters +had to walk in turns along the banks. + +In our rambles round the encampment we witnessed with pleasure the +progress which vegetation had made within the few last warm days; most +of the trees had put forth their leaves and several flowers ornamented +the moss-covered ground; many of the smaller summer birds were observed +in the woods, and a variety of ducks, gulls, and plovers, sported on +the banks of the river. It is about three hundred yards wide at this +part, is deep and flows over a bed of alluvial sand. We caught some +trout of considerable size with our lines, and a few white-fish in the +nets, which maintained us with a little assistance from the pemmican. +The repair of our canoes was completed this evening. Before embarking I +issued an order that no rapid should in future be descended until the +bowman had examined it and decided upon its being safe to run. Wherever +the least danger was to be apprehended or the crew had to disembark for +the purpose of lightening the canoe, the ammunition, guns, and +instruments were always to be put out and carried along the bank, that +we might be provided with the means of subsisting ourselves in case of +any accident befalling the canoes. + +The situation of our encampment was ascertained to be 65° 43′ 28″ +North, longitude 114° 26′ 45″ West, and the variation 42° 17′ 22″ East. + +At four in the morning of July 4th we embarked and descended a +succession of very agitated rapids, but took the precaution of landing +the articles mentioned yesterday wherever there appeared any hazard; +notwithstanding all our precautions the leading canoe struck with great +force against a stone and the bark was split, but this injury was +easily repaired and we regretted only the loss of time. At eleven we +came to an expansion of the river where the current ran with less force +and an accumulation of drift ice had in consequence barred the channel; +over this the canoes and cargoes were carried. The ice in many places +adhered to the banks and projected in wide ledges several feet thick +over the stream, which had hollowed them out beneath. On one occasion +as the people were embarking from one of these ledges it suddenly gave +way and three men were precipitated into the water but were rescued +without further damage than a sound ducking, and the canoe fortunately +(and narrowly) escaped being crushed. Perceiving one of the Indians +sitting on the east bank of the river we landed and, having learned +from him that Akaitcho and the hunters had gone in pursuit of a herd of +musk-oxen, we encamped, having come twenty-four miles and a half. + +In the afternoon they brought us the agreeable intelligence of having +killed eight cows, of which four were full-grown. All the party were +immediately despatched to bring in this seasonable supply. A young cow, +irritated by the firing of the hunters, ran down to the river and +passed close to me when walking at a short distance from the tents. I +fired and wounded it, when the animal instantly turned and ran at me, +but I avoided its fury by jumping aside and getting upon an elevated +piece of ground. In the meantime some people came from the tents and it +took to flight. + +The musk-oxen, like the buffalo, herd together in bands and generally +frequent the barren grounds during the summer months, keeping near the +rivers, but retire to the woods in winter. They seem to be less +watchful than most other wild animals and, when grazing, are not +difficult to approach provided the hunters go against the wind; when +two or three men get so near a herd as to fire at them from different +points these animals, instead of separating or running away, huddle +closer together and several are generally killed; but if the wound is +not mortal they become enraged and dart in the most furious manner at +the hunters, who must be very dextrous to evade them. They can defend +themselves by their powerful horns against the wolves and bears which, +as the Indians say, they not unfrequently kill. + +The musk-oxen feed on the same substances with the reindeer, and the +prints of the feet of these two animals are so much alike that it +requires the eye of an experienced hunter to distinguish them. The +largest killed by us did not exceed in weight three hundred pounds. The +flesh has a musky disagreeable flavour, particularly when the animal is +lean which, unfortunately for us, was the case with all that we now +killed. + +During this day’s march the river varied in breadth from one hundred to +two hundred feet, and except in two open spaces a very strong current +marked a deep descent the whole way. It flows over a bed of gravel, of +which also its immediate banks are composed. Near to our encampment it +is bounded by cliffs of fine sand from one hundred to two hundred feet +high. Sandy plains extend on a level with the summit of these cliffs, +and at the distance of six or seven miles are terminated by ranges of +hills eight hundred or one thousand feet high. The grass on these +plains affords excellent pasturage for the musk-oxen and they generally +abound here. The hunters added two more to our stock in the course of +the night. As we had now more meat than the party could consume fresh +we delayed our voyage next day to dry it. The hunters were supplied +with more ammunition and sent forward; but Akaitcho, his brother, and +another Indian remained with us. + +It may here be proper to mention that the officers had treated Akaitcho +more distantly since our departure from Point Lake, to mark their +opinion of his misconduct. The diligence in hunting however which he +had evinced at this place induced us to receive him more familiarly +when he came to the tent this evening. During our conversation he +endeavoured to excite suspicions in our minds against the Hook by +saying, “I am aware that you consider me the worst man of my nation; +but I know the Hook to be a great rogue and I think he will disappoint +you.” + +On the morning of the 6th we embarked and descended a series of rapids, +having twice unloaded the canoes where the water was shallow. After +passing the mouth of the Fairy Lake River[26] the rapids ceased. The +main stream was then about three hundred yards wide and generally deep, +though in one part the channel was interrupted by several sandy banks +and low alluvial islands covered with willows. It flows between banks +of sand thinly wooded and as we advanced the barren hills approached +the water’s edge. + + [26] This is an Indian name. The Northern Indian fairies are six + inches high, lead a life similar to the Indians, and are excellent + hunters. Those who have had the good fortune to fall in with their + tiny encampments have been kindly treated and regaled on venison. We + did not learn with certainty whether the existence of these delightful + creatures is known from Indian tradition or whether the Indians own + their knowledge of them to their intercourse with the traders, but + think the former probable. + + +At ten we rejoined our hunters who had killed a deer and halted to +breakfast. We sent them forward; one of them who was walking along the +shore afterwards fired upon two brown bears and wounded one of them, +which instantly turned and pursued him. His companions in the canoes +put ashore to his assistance but did not succeed in killing the bears, +which fled upon the reinforcement coming up. During the delay thus +occasioned we overtook them and they continued with us the rest of the +day. + +We encamped at the foot of a lofty range of mountains which appear to +be from twelve to fifteen hundred feet high; they are in general +round-backed but the outline is not even, being interrupted by craggy +conical eminences. This is the first ridge of hills we have seen in +this country that deserves the appellation of a mountain range; it is +probably a continuation of the Stony Mountains crossed by Hearne. Many +plants appeared in full flower near the tents and Dr. Richardson +gathered some high up on the hills. The distance we made today was +fifty miles. + +There was a hoar frost in the night and the temperature at four next +morning was 40°: embarking at that hour we glided quickly down the +stream and by seven arrived at the Hook’s encampment which was placed +on the summit of a lofty sand cliff whose base was washed by the river. +This chief had with him only three hunters and a few old men and their +families, the rest of the band having remained at their snares in Bear +Lake. His brother Long-legs and our guide Keskarrah, who had joined him +three days before, had communicated to him our want of provision, and +we were happy to find that, departing from the general practice of +Indian chiefs, he entered at once upon the business without making a +long speech. As an introductory mark of our regard I decorated him with +a medal similar to those which had been given to the other leaders. The +Hook began by stating that he was aware of our being destitute of +provision, and of the great need we had of an ample stock to enable us +to execute our undertaking, and his regret that the unusual scarcity of +animals this season, together with the circumstance of his having only +just received a supply of ammunition from Fort Providence, had +prevented him from collecting the quantity of meat he had wished to do +for our use. “The amount indeed,” he said, “is very small, but I will +cheerfully give you what I have: we are too much indebted to the white +people to allow them to want food on our lands whilst we have any to +give them. Our families can live on fish until we can procure more +meat, but the season is too short to allow of your delaying to gain +subsistence in that manner.” He immediately desired aloud that the +women should bring all the meat they had to us; and we soon collected +sufficient to make three bags and a half of pemmican, besides some +dried meat and tongues. We were truly delighted by this prompt and +cheerful behaviour and would gladly have rewarded the kindness of +himself and his companions by some substantial present, but we were +limited by the scantiness of our store to a small donation of fifteen +charges of ammunition to each of the chiefs. In return for the +provision they accepted notes on the North-West Company to be paid at +Fort Providence, and to these was subjoined an order for a few articles +of clothing as an additional present. I then endeavoured to prevail +upon the Hook to remain in this vicinity with his hunters until the +autumn, and to make deposits of provision in different parts of the +course to the sea as a resource for our party, in the event of our +being compelled to return by this route. He required time however to +consider this matter, and promised to give me an answer next day. I was +rejoiced to find him then prepared to meet my wish and the following +plan was agreed upon: As the animals abound at all times on the borders +of Bear Lake he promised to remain on the east side of it until the +month of November, at that spot which is nearest to the Copper-Mine +River, from whence there is a communication by a chain of lakes and +portages. There the principal deposit of provision was to be made, but +during the summer the hunters were to be employed in putting up +supplies of dried meat at convenient distances, not only along the +communication from this river, but also upon its banks as far down as +the Copper Mountain. They were also to place particular marks to guide +our course to their lodges. We contracted to pay them liberally, +whether we returned by this way or not; if we did they were to +accompany us to Fort Providence to receive the reward, and at any rate +I promised to send the necessary documents by Mr. Wentzel from the +sea-coast to ensure them an ample remuneration. With this arrangement +they were perfectly satisfied and we could not be less so, knowing they +had every motive for fulfilling their promises, as the place they had +chosen to remain at is their usual hunting ground. The uncommon anxiety +these chiefs expressed for our safety appeared to us likely to prompt +them to every care and attention, and I record their expressions with +gratitude. After representing the numerous hardships we should have to +encounter in the strongest manner, though in language similar to what +we had often heard from our friend Akaitcho, they earnestly entreated +we would be constantly on our guard against the treachery of the +Esquimaux, and no less forcibly desired we would not proceed far along +the coast, as they dreaded the consequences of our being exposed to a +tempestuous sea in canoes, and having to endure the cold of the autumn +on a shore destitute of fuel. The Hook having been an invalid for +several years rejoiced at the opportunity of consulting Dr. Richardson, +who immediately gave him advice and supplied him with medicine. + +The pounded meat and fat were converted into pemmican preparatory to +our voyage. + +The result of our observations at the Hook’s encampment was latitude +66° 45′ 11″ North, longitude 115° 42′ 23″ West, variation of the +compass 46° 7′ 30″ East. + +We embarked at eleven to proceed on our journey. Akaitcho and his +brother the guide being in the first canoe and old Keskarrah in the +other. We wished to dispense with the further attendance of two guides +and made a proposition that either of them might remain here, but +neither would relinquish the honour of escorting the Expedition to the +sea. One of our hunters however was less eager for this distinction and +preferred remaining with Green-stockings, Keskarrah’s fascinating +daughter. The other four, with the Little Singer accompanied us, two of +them conducting their small canoes in turns and the rest walking along +the beach. + +The river flows over a bed of sand and winds in an uninterrupted +channel of from three-quarters to a mile broad between two ranges of +hills, which are pretty even in their outline and round-backed, but +having rather steep acclivities. The immediate borders of the stream +consist either of high banks of sand or steep gravel cliffs and +sometimes, where the hills recede to a little distance, the intervening +space is occupied by high sandy ridges. + +At three P.M., after passing along the foot of a high range of hills, +we arrived at the portage leading to the Bear Lake, to which we have +previously alluded. Its position is very remarkable, being at the most +westerly part of the Copper-Mine River and at the point where it +resumes a northern course and forces a passage through the lofty ridge +of mountains to which it has run parallel for the last thirty miles. As +the Indians travel from hence with their families in three days to the +point where they have proposed staying for us, the distance I think +cannot exceed forty miles and, admitting the course to be due west, +which is the direction the guide pointed, it would place the eastern +part of Bear Lake in 118 1/4° West longitude. + +Beyond this spot the river is diminished in breadth and a succession of +rapids are formed but, as the water was deep, we passed through them +without discharging any part of the cargoes. It still runs between high +ranges of mountains, though its actual boundaries are banks of mud +mixed with clay which are clothed with stunted pines. We picked up a +deer which the hunters had shot and killed another from the canoe, and +also received an addition to our stock of provision of seven young +geese which the hunters had beaten down with their sticks. About six +P.M. we perceived a mark on the shore which on examination was found to +have been recently put up by some Indians: and on proceeding farther we +discerned stronger proofs of their vicinity; we therefore encamped and +made a large fire as a signal which they answered in a similar way. Mr. +Wentzel was immediately sent in expectation of getting provision from +them. On his return we learned that the party consisted of three old +Copper Indians with their families, who had supported themselves with +the bow and arrow since last autumn, not having visited Fort Providence +for more than a year, and so successful had they been that they were +enabled to supply us with upwards of seventy pounds of dried meat, and +six moose skins fit for making shoes, which were the more valuable as +we were apprehensive of being barefooted before the journey could be +completed. The evening was sultry and the mosquitoes appeared in great +numbers. The distance made today was twenty-five miles. + +On the following morning we went down to these Indians and delivered to +them notes on the North-West Company for the meat and skins they had +furnished, and we had then the mortification of learning that, not +having people to carry a considerable quantity of pounded meat which +they intended for us, they had left it upon the Bear Lake Portage. They +promised however to get it conveyed to the banks of this river before +we could return and we rewarded them with a present of knives and +files. + +After reembarking we continued to descend the river which was now +contracted between lofty banks to about one hundred and twenty yards +wide; the current was very strong. At eleven we came to a rapid which +had been the theme of discourse with the Indians for many days, and +which they had described to us as impassable in canoes. The river here +descends for three-quarters of a mile in a deep but narrow and crooked +channel which it has cut through the foot of a hill of five hundred or +six hundred feet high. It is confined between perpendicular cliffs +resembling stone walls, varying in height from eighty to one hundred +and fifty feet, on which lies a mass of fine sand. The body of the +river pent within this narrow chasm dashed furiously round the +projecting rocky columns and discharged itself at the northern +extremity in a sheet of foam. The canoes, after being lightened of part +of their cargoes, ran through this defile without sustaining any +injury. Accurate sketches of this interesting scene were taken by +Messrs. Back and Hood. Soon after passing this rapid we perceived the +hunters running up the east side of the river to prevent us from +disturbing a herd of musk-oxen which they had observed grazing on the +opposite bank; we put them across and they succeeded in killing six, +upon which we encamped for the purpose of drying the meat. The country +below the Rocky Defile Rapid consists of sandy plains, broken by small +conical eminences also of sand, and bounded to the westward by a +continuation of the mountain chain which we had crossed at the Bear +Lake Portage, and to the eastward and northward at the distance of +twelve miles by the Copper Mountains, which Mr. Hearne visited. The +plains are crowned by several clumps of moderately large spruces about +thirty feet high. + +This evening the Indians made a large fire as a signal to the Hook’s +party that we had passed the _terrific_ rapid in safety. + +The position of our encampment was ascertained to be latitude 67° 1′ +10″ North, longitude 116° 27′ 28″ West, variation of the compass 44° +11′ 43″ East, dip of the needle 87° 31′ 18″. + +Some thundershowers retarded the drying of the meat and our embarkation +was delayed till the next day. The hunters were sent forward to hunt at +the Copper Mountains under the superintendence of Adam the interpreter +who received strict injunctions not to permit them to make any large +fires lest they should alarm straggling parties of the Esquimaux. + +The mosquitoes were now very numerous and annoying but we consoled +ourselves with the hope that their season would be short. + +VISIT TO THE COPPER MOUNTAIN. + + +On the 11th we started at three A.M. and, as the guide had represented +the river below our encampment to be full of shoals, some of the men +were directed to walk along the shore, but they were assailed so +violently by the mosquitoes as to be compelled to embark very soon; and +we afterwards passed over the shallow parts by the aid of the poles +without experiencing much interruption. The current ran very rapidly, +having been augmented by the waters of the Mouse River and several +small streams. We rejoined our hunters at the foot of the Copper +Mountains and found they had killed three musk-oxen. This circumstance +determined us on encamping to dry the meat as there was wood at the +spot. We availed ourselves of this delay to visit the Copper Mountains +in search of specimens of the ore, agreeably to my Instructions; and a +party of twenty-one persons, consisting of the officers, some of the +voyagers, and all the Indians, set off on that excursion. We travelled +for nine hours over a considerable space of ground but found only a few +small pieces of native copper. The range we ascended was on the west +side of the river extending West-North-West and East-South-East. The +mountains varied in height from twelve to fifteen hundred feet. The +uniformity of the mountains is interrupted by narrow valleys traversed +by small streams. The best specimens of metal we procured were among +the stones in these valleys, and it was in such situations that our +guides desired us to search most carefully. It would appear that, when +the Indians see any sparry substance projecting above the surface, they +dig there, but they have no other rule to direct them, and have never +found the metal in its original repository. Our guides reported that +they had found copper in large pieces in every part of this range for +two days’ walk to the north-west, and that the Esquimaux come hither to +search for it. The annual visits which the Copper Indians were +accustomed to make to these mountains, when most of their weapons and +utensils were made of copper, have been discontinued since they have +been enabled to obtain a supply of ice chisels and other instruments of +iron by the establishment of trading posts near their hunting grounds. +That none of those who accompanied us had visited them for many years +was evident from their ignorance of the spots most abundant in metal. + +The impracticability of navigating the river upwards from the sea, and +the want of wood for forming an establishment, would prove insuperable +objections to rendering the collection of copper at this part worthy of +mercantile speculation. + +We had the opportunity of surveying the country from several elevated +positions. Two or three small lakes only were visible, still partly +frozen, and much snow remained on the mountains. The trees were reduced +to a scanty fringe on the borders of the river and every side was beset +by naked mountains. + +The day was unusually warm and therefore favourable for drying meat. +Our whole stock of provision, calculated for preservation, was +sufficient for fourteen days without any diminution of the ordinary +allowance of three pounds to each man per day. The situation of our +tents was 67° 10′ 30″ North, longitude 116° 25′ 45″ West. + +June 12. + +The Indians, knowing the course of the river below this point to be +only a succession of rapids, declined taking their canoes any farther +but, as I conceived one of them would be required, should we be +compelled to walk along the coast, two of our men were appointed to +conduct it. + +As we were now entering the confines of the Esquimaux country our +guides recommended us to be cautious in lighting fires lest we should +discover ourselves, adding that the same reason would lead them to +travel as much as possible in the valleys, and to avoid crossing the +tops of the hills. We embarked at six A.M., taking with us only old +Keskarrah. The other Indians walked along the banks of the river. +Throughout this day’s voyage the current was very strong, running four +or five miles an hour, but the navigation was tolerable and we had to +lighten the canoes only once, in a contracted part of the river where +the waves were very high. The river is in many places confined between +perpendicular walls of rock to one hundred and fifty yards in width, +and there the rapids were most agitated. Large masses of ice twelve or +fourteen feet thick were still adhering to many parts of the bank, +indicating the tardy departure of winter from this inhospitable land, +but the earth around them was rich with vegetation. In the evening two +musk-oxen, being seen on the beach, were pursued and killed by our men. +Whilst we were waiting to embark the meat the Indians rejoined us and +reported they had been attacked by a bear which sprung upon them whilst +they were conversing together. His attack was so sudden that they had +not time to level their guns properly, and they all missed except +Akaitcho who, less confused than the rest, took deliberate aim and shot +the animal dead. They do not eat the flesh of the bear but, knowing +that we had no such prejudice, they brought us some of the choice +pieces which upon trial we found to be very excellent meat. + +The Indians having informed us that we were now within twelve miles of +the rapid where the Esquimaux have invariably been found, we pitched +our tents on the beach under the shelter of a high hill whose +precipitous side is washed by the river, intending to send forward some +persons to determine the situation of their present abode. Some +vestiges of an old Esquimaux encampment were observed near the tents +and the stumps of the trees bore marks of the stone hatchets they use. +A strict watch was appointed consisting of an officer, four Canadians, +and an Indian, and directions were given for the rest of the party to +sleep with their arms by their side. That as little delay as possible +might be experienced in opening a communication with the Esquimaux we +immediately commenced arrangements for sending forward persons to +discover whether there were any in our vicinity. Akaitcho and the +guides proposed that two of the hunters should be despatched on this +service who had extremely quick sight and were accustomed to act as +scouts, an office which requires equal caution and circumspection. A +strong objection however lay against this plan in the probability of +their being discovered by a straggling hunter, which would be +destructive to every hope of accommodation. It was therefore determined +to send Augustus and Junius, who were very desirous to undertake the +service. These adventurous men proposed to go armed only with pistols +concealed in their dress, and furnished with beads, looking-glasses, +and other articles, that they might conciliate their countrymen by +presents. We could not divest our minds of the apprehension that it +might be a service of much hazard if the Esquimaux were as hostile to +strangers as the Copper Indians have invariably represented them to be, +and we felt great reluctance in exposing our two little interpreters, +who had rendered themselves dear to the whole party, to the most +distant chance of receiving injury, but this course of proceeding +appeared in their opinion and our own to offer the only chance of +gaining an interview. Though not insensible to the danger they +cheerfully prepared for their mission, and clothed themselves in +Esquimaux dresses which had been made for the purpose at Fort +Enterprise. Augustus was desired to make his presents and to tell the +Esquimaux that the white men had come to make peace between them and +all their enemies, and also to discover a passage by which every +article of which they stood in need might be brought in large ships. He +was not to mention that we were accompanied by the Indians but to +endeavour to prevail on some of the Esquimaux to return with him. He +was directed to come back immediately if there were no lodges at the +rapid. + +The Indians were not suffered to move out of our sight, but in the +evening we permitted two of them to cross the river in pursuit of a +musk-ox, which they killed on the beach and returned immediately. The +officers, prompted by an anxious solicitude for Augustus and Junius, +crawled up frequently to the summit of the mountain to watch their +return. The view however was not extensive, being bounded at the +distance of eight miles by a range of hills similar to the Copper +Mountains but not so lofty. The night came without bringing any +intelligence of our messengers, and our fears for their safety +increased with the length of their absence. + +As everyone had been interested in the welfare of these men through +their vivacity and good nature and the assistance they had cheerfully +rendered in bearing their portion of whatever labour might be going on, +their detention formed the subject of all our conversation and numerous +conjectures were hazarded as to the cause. + +Dr. Richardson, having the first watch, had gone to the summit of the +hill and remained seated, contemplating the river that washed the +precipice under his feet long after dusk had hid distant objects from +his view. His thoughts were perhaps far distant from the surrounding +scenery, when he was roused by an indistinct noise behind him and, on +looking round, perceived that nine white wolves had ranged themselves +in form of a crescent and were advancing, apparently with the intention +of driving him into the river. On his rising up they halted, and when +he advanced they made way for his passage down to the tents. He had his +gun in his hand but forbore to fire lest there should be Esquimaux in +the neighbourhood. During Mr. Wentzel’s middle watch the wolves +appeared repeatedly on the summit of the hill, and at one time they +succeeded in driving a deer over the precipice. The animal was stunned +by the fall but, recovering itself, swam across the stream and escaped +up the river. I may remark here that at midnight it was tolerably dark +in the valley of the river at this time but that an object on the +eminence above could be distinctly seen against the sky. + +The following observations were taken at this encampment, latitude 67° +23′ 14″ North, longitude 116° 6′ 51″ West, variation 49° 46′ 24″ East. +Thermometer 75° at three P.M. Sultry weather. + +Augustus and Junius not having returned next morning we were more +alarmed respecting them, and determined on proceeding to find out the +cause of their detention, but it was eleven A.M. before we could +prevail upon the Indians to remain behind, which we wished them to do +lest the Esquimaux might be suspicious of our intentions if they were +seen in our suite. We promised to send for them when we had paved the +way for their reception, but Akaitcho, ever ready to augur misfortune, +expressed his belief that our messengers had been killed and that the +Esquimaux, warned of our approach, were lying in wait for us, and +“although,” said he, “your party may be sufficiently strong to repulse +any hostile attack, my band is too weak to offer effectual resistance +when separated from you, and therefore we are determined to go on with +you or to return to our lands.” After much argument however he yielded +and agreed to stay behind, provided Mr. Wentzel would remain with him. +This gentleman was accordingly left with a Canadian attendant and they +promised not to pass a range of hills then in view to the northward +unless we sent notice to them. + +The river during the whole of this day’s voyage flowed between +alternate cliffs of looses and intermixed with gravel and red sandstone +rocks, and was everywhere shallow and rapid. As its course was very +crooked much time was spent in examining the different rapids previous +to running them, but the canoes descended, except at a single place, +without any difficulty. Most of the officers and half the men marched +along the land to lighten the canoes and reconnoitre the country, each +person being armed with a gun and a dagger. Arriving at a range of +mountains which had terminated our view yesterday, we ascended it with +much eagerness, expecting to see the rapid that Mr. Hearne visited near +its base, and to gain a view of the sea; but our disappointment was +proportionably great when we beheld beyond a plain, similar to that we +had just left, terminated by another range of trap hills, between whose +tops the summits of some distant blue mountains appeared. Our reliance +on the information of the guides, which had been for some time shaken, +was now quite at an end, and we feared that the sea was still far +distant. The flat country here is covered with grass and is devoid of +the large stones so frequent in the barren grounds, but the ranges of +trap hills which seem to intersect it at regular distances are quite +barren. A few decayed stunted pines were standing on the borders of the +river. In the evening we had the gratification of meeting Junius who +was hastening back to inform us that they had found four Esquimaux +tents at the Fall which we recognised to be the one described by Mr. +Hearne. The inmates were asleep at the time of their arrival but rose +soon afterwards, and then Augustus presented himself and had some +conversation across the river. He told them the white people had come, +who would make them very useful presents. The information of our +arrival seemed to alarm them very much but, as the noise of the rapid +prevented them from hearing distinctly, one of them approached him in +his canoe and received the rest of the message. He would not however +land on his side of the river, but returned to the tents without +receiving the present. His language differed in some respects from +Augustus’s but they understood each other tolerably well. Augustus, +trusting for a supply of provision to the Esquimaux, had neglected to +carry any with him, and this was the main cause of Junius’s return. We +now encamped, having come fourteen miles. After a few hours’ rest +Junius set off again to rejoin his companion, being accompanied by +Hepburn who was directed to remain about two miles above the fall to +arrest the canoes on their passage, lest we should too suddenly +surprise the Esquimaux. About ten P.M. we were mortified by the +appearance of the Indians with Mr. Wentzel, who had in vain endeavoured +to restrain them from following us. The only reason assigned by +Akaitcho for this conduct was that he wished for a reassurance of my +promise to establish peace between his nation and the Esquimaux. I took +this occasion of again enforcing the necessity of their remaining +behind until we had obtained the confidence and goodwill of their +enemies. After supper Dr. Richardson ascended a lofty hill about three +miles from the encampment and obtained the first view of the sea; it +appeared to be covered with ice. A large promontory, which I named Cape +Hearne, bore North-East and its lofty mountains proved to be the blue +land we had seen in the forenoon, and which had led us to believe the +sea was still far distant. He saw the sun set a few minutes before +midnight from the same elevated situation. It did not rise during the +half hour he remained there, but before he reached the encampment its +rays gilded the tops of the hills. + +The night was warm and we were much annoyed by the mosquitoes. + +June 15. + +We this morning experienced as much difficulty as before in prevailing +upon the Indians to remain behind, and they did not consent until I had +declared that they should lose the reward which had been promised if +they proceeded any farther before we had prepared the Esquimaux to +receive them. We left a Canadian with them and proceeded, not without +apprehension that they would follow us and derange our whole plan by +their obstinacy. Two of the officers and a party of men walked on the +shore to lighten the canoes. The river in this part flows between high +and stony cliffs, reddish slate clay rocks, and shelving banks of white +clay, and is full of shoals and dangerous rapids. One of these was +termed Escape Rapid, both the canoes having narrowly escaped foundering +in its high waves. We had entered the rapid before we were aware and, +the steepness of the cliffs preventing us from landing, we were +indebted to the swiftness of our descent for preservation. Two waves +made a complete breach over the canoes; a third would in all +probability have filled and overset them, which must have proved fatal +to everyone in them. The powder fortunately escaped the water, which +was soon discharged when we reached the bottom of the rapid. At noon we +perceived Hepburn lying on the left bank of the river and landed +immediately to receive his information. As he represented the water to +be shoal the whole way to the rapid (below which the Esquimaux were) +the shore party were directed to continue their march to a sandy bay at +the head of the fall and there await the arrival of the canoes. The +land in the neighbourhood of the rapid is of the most singular form: +large irregular sandhills bounding both banks, apparently so +unconnected that they resemble icebergs, the country around them +consisting of high round green hills. The river becomes wide in this +part and full of shoals, but we had no difficulty in finding a channel +through them. On regaining the shore party we regretted to find that +some of the men had incautiously appeared on the tops of the hills just +at the time Augustus was conversing with one of the Esquimaux, who had +again approached in his canoe and was almost persuaded to land. The +unfortunate appearance of so many people at this instant revived his +fears, and he crossed over to the eastern bank of the river, and fled +with the whole of his party. We learned from Augustus that this party, +consisting of four men and as many women, had manifested a friendly +disposition. Two of the former were very tall. The man who first came +to speak to him inquired the number of canoes that we had with us, +expressed himself to be not displeased at our arrival, and desired him +to caution us not to attempt running the rapid, but to make the portage +on the west side of the river. Notwithstanding this appearance of +confidence and satisfaction it seems they did not consider their +situation free from danger, as they retreated the first night to an +island somewhat farther down the river, and in the morning they +returned and threw down their lodges, as if to give notice to any of +their nation that might arrive that there was an enemy in the +neighbourhood. From seeing all their property strewed about, and ten of +their dogs left, we entertained the hope that these poor people would +return after their first alarm had subsided, and therefore I determined +on remaining until the next day, in the expectation of seeing them as I +considered the opening of an early communication a matter of the +greatest importance in our state of absolute ignorance respecting the +sea-coast. The canoes and cargoes were carried across the portage and +we encamped on the north side of it. We sent Augustus and Junius across +the river to look for the runaways but their search was fruitless. They +put a few pieces of iron and trinkets in their canoes, which were lying +on the beach. We also sent some men to put up the stages of fish and +secure them as much as possible from the attacks of the dogs. Under the +covering of their tents were observed some stone kettles and hatchets, +a few fish spears made of copper, two small bits of iron, a quantity of +skins, and some dried salmon, which was covered with maggots and half +putrid. The entrails of the fish were spread out to dry. A great many +skins of small birds were hung up to a stage, and even two mice were +preserved in the same way. Thus it would appear that the necessities of +these poor people induce them to preserve every article that can be +possibly used as food. Several human skulls, which bore the marks of +violence, and many bones were strewed about the ground near the +encampment and, as the spot exactly answers the description given by +Mr. Hearne of the place where the Chipewyans who accompanied him +perpetrated the dreadful massacre on the Esquimaux, we had no doubt of +this being the place, notwithstanding the difference in its position as +to latitude and longitude given by him and ascertained by our +observation. We have therefore preserved the appellation of Bloody Fall +which he bestowed upon it. Its situation by our observations is in +latitude 67° 42′ 35″ North, longitude 115° 49′ 33″ West, variation 50° +20′ 14″ East. This rapid is a sort of shelving cascade, about three +hundred yards in length, having a descent of from ten to fifteen feet. +It is bounded on each side by high walls of red sandstone, upon which +rests a series of lofty green hills. On its north side close to the +east bank is the low rocky island which the Esquimaux had deserted. The +surrounding scenery was accurately delineated in a sketch taken by Mr. +Hood. We caught forty excellent salmon and white-fish in a single net +below the rapid. We had not seen any trees during this day’s journey; +our fuel consisted of small willows and pieces of dried wood that were +picked up near the encampment. The ground is well clothed with grass +and nourishes most of the shrubs and berry-bearing plants that we have +seen north of Fort Enterprise; and the country altogether has a richer +appearance than the barren lands of the Copper Indians. We had a +distinct view of the sea from the summit of a hill behind the tents; it +appeared choked with ice and full of islands. + +INTERVIEW WITH THE ESQUIMAUX. + + +On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up the river to search +for dried wood to make floats for the nets. Adam the interpreter was +also despatched with a Canadian to inform Akaitcho of the flight of the +Esquimaux. We were preparing to go down to the sea in one of the +canoes, leaving Mr. Back to await the return of the men who were absent +but, just as the crew were putting the canoe in the water, Adam +returned in the utmost consternation and informed us that a party of +Esquimaux were pursuing the men whom we had sent to collect floats. The +orders for embarking were instantly countermanded and we went with a +part of our men to their rescue. We soon met our people returning at a +slow pace and learned that they had come unawares upon the Esquimaux +party, which consisted of six men with their women and children, who +were travelling towards the rapid with a considerable number of dogs +carrying their baggage. The women hid themselves on the first alarm, +but the men advanced and, stopping at some distance from our men, began +to dance in a circle, tossing up their hands in the air and +accompanying their motions with much shouting, to signify I conceive +their desire of peace. Our men saluted them by pulling off their hats +and making bows, but neither party was willing to approach the other, +and at length the Esquimaux retired to the hill from whence they had +descended when first seen. We proceeded in the hope of gaining an +interview with them but lest our appearance in a body should alarm them +we advanced in a long line, at the head of which was Augustus. We were +led to their baggage, which they had deserted, by the howling of the +dogs, and on the summit of a hill we found lying behind a stone an old +man who was too infirm to effect his escape with the rest. He was much +terrified when Augustus advanced and probably expected immediate death +but, that the fatal blow might not be unrevenged, he seized his spear +and made a thrust with it at his supposed enemy. Augustus however +easily repressed the feeble effort and soon calmed his fears by +presenting him with some pieces of iron and assuring him of his +friendly intentions. Dr. Richardson and I then joined them and, after +receiving our presents, the old man was quite composed and became +communicative. His dialect differed from that used by Augustus but they +understood each other tolerably well. + +It appeared that his party consisted of eight men and their families +who were returning from a hunting excursion with dried meat. After +being told who we were he said that he had heard of white people from +different parties of his nation which resided on the sea-coast to the +eastward and, to our inquiries respecting the provision and fuel we +might expect to get on our voyage, he informed us that the reindeer +frequent the coast during the summer, the fish are plentiful at the +mouths of the rivers, the seals are abundant, but there are no +sea-horses nor whales, although he remembered one of the latter, which +had been killed by some distant tribe, having been driven on shore on +his part of the coast by a gale of wind. That musk-oxen were to be +found a little distance up the rivers, and that we should get driftwood +along the shore. He had no knowledge of the coast to the eastward +beyond the next river, which he called Nappaarktoktowock, or Tree +River. The old man, contrary to the Indian practice, asked each of our +names and, in reply to a similar question on our part, said his name +was Terregannœuck, or the White Fox, and that his tribe denominated +themselves Naggeooktormoeoot, or Deer-Horn Esquimaux. They usually +frequent the Bloody Fall during this and the following moons for the +purpose of salting salmon, and then retire to a river which flows into +the sea a short way to the westward (since denominated Richardson’s +River) and pass the winter in snow-houses. + +After this conversation Terregannœuck proposed going down to his +baggage, and we then perceived he was too infirm to walk without the +assistance of sticks. Augustus therefore offered him his arm which he +readily accepted and, on reaching his store, he distributed pieces of +dried meat to each person which, though highly tainted, were +immediately eaten, this being a universal token among the Indians of +peaceable intention. + +We then informed him of our desire to procure as much meat as we +possibly could and he told us that he had a large quantity concealed in +the neighbourhood which he would cause to be carried to us when his +people returned. + +I now communicated to him that we were accompanied by some Copper +Indians who were very desirous to make peace with his nation, and that +they had requested me to prevail upon the Esquimaux to receive them in +a friendly manner, to which he replied he should rejoice to see an end +put to the hostility that existed between the nations and therefore +would most gladly welcome our companions. Having despatched Adam to +inform Akaitcho of this circumstance we left Terregannœuck, in the hope +that his party would rejoin him but, as we had doubts whether the young +men would venture upon coming to our tents on the old man’s bare +representation, we sent Augustus and Junius back in the evening to +remain with him until they came, that they might fully detail our +intentions. + +The countenance of Terregannœuck was oval with a sufficiently prominent +nose and had nothing very different from a European face, except in the +smallness of his eyes and perhaps in the narrowness of his forehead. +His complexion was very fresh and red and he had a longer beard than I +had seen on any of the aboriginal inhabitants of America. It was +between two and three inches long and perfectly white. His face was not +tattooed. His dress consisted of a shirt, or jacket with a hood, wide +breeches reaching only to the knee, and tight leggings sewed to the +shoes, all of deer skins. The soles of the shoes were made of seal-skin +and stuffed with feathers instead of socks. He was bent with age but +appeared to be about five feet ten inches high. His hands and feet were +small in proportion to his height. Whenever Terregannœuck received a +present he placed each article first on his right shoulder then on his +left, and when he wished to express still higher satisfaction he rubbed +it over his head. He held hatchets and other iron instruments in the +highest esteem. On seeing his countenance in a glass for the first time +he exclaimed, “I shall never kill deer more,” and immediately put the +mirror down. The tribe to which he belongs repair to the sea in spring +and kill seals; as the season advances they hunt deer and musk-oxen at +some distance from the coast. Their weapon is the bow and arrow and +they get sufficiently nigh the deer, either by crawling or by leading +these animals by ranges of turf towards a spot where the archer can +conceal himself. Their bows are formed of three pieces of fir, the +centrepiece alone bent, the other two lying in the same straight line +with the bowstring; the pieces are neatly tied together with sinew. +Their canoes are similar to those we saw in Hudson’s Straits but +smaller. They get fish constantly in the rivers and in the sea as soon +as the ice breaks up. This tribe do not make use of nets but are +tolerably successful with the hook and line. Their cooking utensils are +made of pot-stone, and they form very neat dishes of fir, the sides +being made of thin deal, bent into an oval form, secured at the ends by +sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to be perfectly +water-tight. They have also large spoons made of the horns of the +musk-oxen. + +Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our tents in the evening and we +learned that they had seen the Esquimaux the day before and endeavoured +without success to open a communication with them. They exhibited no +hostile intention but were afraid to advance. Akaitcho, keeping out of +their sight, followed at a distance, expecting that, ultimately finding +themselves enclosed between our party and his, they would be compelled +to come to a parley with one of us. Akaitcho had seen Terregannœuck +soon after our departure; he was much terrified and thrust his spear at +him as he had done at Augustus, but was soon reconciled after the +demonstrations of kindness the Indians made in cutting off the buttons +from their dress to present to him. + +July 17. + +We waited all this forenoon in momentary expectation of the return of +Augustus and Junius but as they did not appear at two P.M. I sent Mr. +Hood with a party of men to inquire into the cause of their detention +and to bring the meat which Terregannœuck had promised us. He returned +at midnight with the information that none of the Esquimaux had yet +ventured to come near Terregannœuck except his aged wife, who had +concealed herself amongst the rocks at our first interview, and she +told him the rest of the party had gone to a river a short distance to +the westward where there was another party of Esquimaux fishing. +Augustus and Junius had erected the tent and done everything in their +power to make the old man comfortable in their absence. Terregannœuck, +being unable to walk to the place where the meat was concealed, readily +pointed the spot out to Mr. Hood who went thither but, after +experiencing much difficulty in getting at the column of rock on which +it was deposited, he found it too putrid for our use. The features of +Terregannœuck’s wife were remarkable for roundness and flatness; her +face was much tattooed and her dress differed little from the old +man’s. + +In the afternoon a party of nine Esquimaux appeared on the east bank of +the river about a mile below our encampment, carrying their canoes and +baggage on their backs, but they turned and fled as soon as they +perceived our tents. The appearance of so many different bands of +Esquimaux terrified the Indians so much that they determined on leaving +us the next day lest they should be surrounded and their retreat cut +off. I endeavoured, by the offer of any remuneration they would choose, +to prevail upon one or two of the hunters to proceed but in vain; and I +had much difficulty even in obtaining their promise to wait at the +Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel and the four men, whom I intended to +discharge at the sea. + +The fears which our interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, entertained +respecting the voyage were now greatly increased and both of them came +this evening to request their discharge, urging that their services +could be no longer requisite as the Indians were going from us. St. +Germain even said that he had understood he was only engaged to +accompany us as long as the Indians did, and persisted in this +falsehood until his agreement to go with us throughout the voyage had +been twice read to him. As these were the only two of the party on +whose skill in hunting we could rely I was unable to listen for a +moment to their desire of quitting us and, lest they should leave us by +stealth, their motions were strictly watched. This was not an +unnecessary precaution as I was informed that they had actually laid a +plan for eloping; but the rest of the men, knowing that their own +safety would have been compromised had they succeeded, kept a watchful +eye over them. We knew that the dread of the Esquimaux would prevent +these men from leaving us as soon as the Indians were at a distance, +and we trusted to their becoming reconciled to the journey when once +the novelty of a sea voyage had worn off. + +DEPARTURE OF THE INDIAN HUNTERS. ARRANGEMENTS MADE WITH THEM FOR OUR +RETURN. + + +July 18. + +As the Indians persevered in their determination of setting out this +morning I reminded them, through Mr. Wentzel and St. Germain, of the +necessity of our having the deposit of provision made at Fort +Enterprise, and received a renewed assurance of their attending to that +point. They were also desired to put as much meat as they could _en +cache_ on the banks of the Copper-Mine River on their return. We then +furnished them with what ammunition we could spare and they took their +departure promising to wait three days for Mr. Wentzel at the Copper +Mountains. We afterwards learned that their fears did not permit them +to do so, and that Mr. Wentzel did not rejoin them until they were a +day’s march to the southward of the mountains. + +We embarked at five A.M. and proceeded towards the sea which is about +nine miles beyond the Bloody Fall. After passing a few rapids the river +became wider and more navigable for canoes, flowing between banks of +alluvial sand. We encamped at ten on the western bank at its junction +with the sea. The river is here about a mile wide but very shallow, +being barred nearly across by sandbanks which run out from the mainland +on each side to a low alluvial island that lies in the centre and forms +two channels, of these the westernmost only is navigable even for +canoes, the other being obstructed by a stony bar. The islands to +seaward are high and numerous and fill the horizon in many points of +the compass; the only open space seen from an eminence near the +encampment being from North by East to North-East by North. Towards the +east the land was like a chain of islands, the ice apparently +surrounding them in a compact body, leaving a channel between its edge +and the main of about three miles. The water in this channel was of a +clear green colour and decidedly salt. Mr. Hearne could have tasted it +only at the mouth of the river, when he pronounced it merely brackish. +A rise and fall of four inches in the water was observed. The shore is +strewed with a considerable quantity of drift timber, principally of +the _Populus balsamifera_, but none of it of great size. We also picked +up some decayed wood far out of the reach of the water. A few stunted +willows were growing near the encampment. Some ducks, gulls, and +partridges were seen this day. As I had to make up despatches for +England to be sent by Mr. Wentzel the nets were set in the interim and +we were rejoiced to find that they produced sufficient fish for the +party. Those caught were the Copper-Mine River salmon, white-fish, and +two species of pleuronectes. We felt a considerable change of +temperature on reaching the sea-coast, produced by the winds changing +from the southward to the North-West. Our Canadian voyagers complained +much of the cold but they were amused with their first view of the sea +and particularly with the sight of the seals that were swimming about +near the entrance of the river, but these sensations gave place to +despondency before the evening had elapsed. They were terrified at the +idea of a voyage through an icy sea in bark canoes. They speculated on +the length of the journey, the roughness of the waves, the uncertainty +of provisions, the exposure to cold where we could expect no fuel, and +the prospect of having to traverse the barren grounds to get to some +establishment. The two interpreters expressed their apprehensions with +the least disguise and again urgently applied to be discharged, but +only one of the Canadians made a similar request. Judging that the +constant occupation of their time as soon as we were enabled to +commence the voyage would prevent them from conjuring up so many causes +of fear, and that familiarity with the scenes on the coast would in a +short time enable them to give scope to their natural cheerfulness, the +officers endeavoured to ridicule their fears and happily succeeded for +the present. The manner in which our faithful Hepburn viewed the +element to which he had been so long accustomed contributed not a +little to make them ashamed of their fears. + +On the morning of the 19th Dr. Richardson, accompanied by Augustus, +paid another visit to Terregannœuck to see if he could obtain any +additional information respecting the country to the eastward, but he +was disappointed at finding that his affrighted family had not yet +rejoined him, and the old man could add nothing to his former +communication. The Doctor remarked that Terreganoeuck had a great +dislike to mentioning the name of the Copper-Mine River, and evaded the +question with much dexterity as often as it was put to him, but that he +willingly told the name of a river to the eastward and also of his +tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to remain with him and offered +him one of his daughters for a wife. These Esquimaux strike fire with +two stones, catching the sparks in the down of the catkins of a willow. + +The despatches being finished were delivered this evening to Mr. +Wentzel, who parted from us at eight P.M. with Parent, Gagnier, Dumas, +and Forcier, Canadians whom I discharged for the purpose of reducing +our expenditure of provision as much as possible. The remainder of the +party including officers amounted to twenty persons. I made Mr. Wentzel +acquainted with the probable course of our future proceedings and +mentioned to him that, if we were far distant from this river when the +season or other circumstances rendered it necessary to put a stop to +our advance, we should in all probability be unable to return to it and +should have to travel across the barren grounds towards some +established post, in which case I told him that we should certainly go +first to Fort Enterprise, expecting that he would cause the Indians to +place a supply of dried provision there, as soon as possible after +their arrival in its vicinity. My instructions to him were that he +should proceed to Point Lake, transport the canoe that was left there +to Fort Enterprise, where he was to embark the instruments and books +and carry them to Slave Lake, and to forward the box containing the +journals, etc., with the present despatches by the next winter packet +to England. But before he quitted Fort Enterprise he was to be assured +of the intention of the Indians to lay up the provision we required +and, if they should be in want of ammunition for that purpose, to +procure it if possible from Fort Providence or the other Forts in Slave +Lake, and send it immediately to them by the hunters who accompanied +him thither. I also requested him to ascertain from Akaitcho and the +other leading Indians where their different parties would be hunting in +the months of September and October, and to leave this information in a +letter at Fort Enterprise for our guidance in finding them, as we +should require their assistance. Mr. Wentzel was furnished with a list +of the stores that had been promised to Akaitcho and his party as a +remuneration for their services, as well as with an official request to +the North-West Company that these goods might be paid to them on their +next visit to Fort Providence, which they expected to make in the +latter part of November. I desired him to mention this circumstance to +the Indians as an encouragement to exertion in our behalf and to +promise them an additional reward for the supply of provision they +should collect at Fort Enterprise. + +If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook or any of his party he was instructed to +assure them that he was provided with the necessary documents to get +them payment for any meat they should put _en cache_ for our use, and +to acquaint them that we fully relied on their fulfilling every part of +the agreement they had made with us. Whenever the Indians, whom he was +to join at the Copper Mountains, killed any animals on their way to +Fort Enterprise, he was requested to put _en cache_ whatever meat could +be spared, placing conspicuous marks to guide us to them, and I +particularly begged he would employ them in hunting in our service +immediately after his arrival at the house. + +When Mr. Wentzel’s party had been supplied with ammunition our +remaining stock consisted of one thousand balls and rather more than +the requisite proportion of powder. A bag of small shot was missing and +we afterwards discovered that the Canadians had secreted and +distributed it among themselves in order that when provision should +become scarce they might privately procure ducks and geese and avoid +the necessity of sharing them with the officers. + +The situation of our encampment was ascertained to be latitude 67° 47′ +50″ North, longitude 115° 36′ 49″ West, the variation of the compass +46° 25′ 52″ East, and dip of the needle 88° 5′ 07″. + +It will be perceived that the position of the mouth of the river given +by our observations differs widely from that assigned by Mr. Hearne, +but the accuracy of his description, conjoined with Indian information, +assured us that we were at the very part he visited. I therefore named +the most conspicuous cape we then saw Cape Hearne as a just tribute to +the memory of that persevering traveller. I distinguished another cape +by the name of Mackenzie in honour of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the only +other European[27] who had before reached the Northern Ocean. I called +the river which falls into the sea to the westward of the Copper-Mine +Richardson as a testimony of sincere regard for my friend and companion +Dr. Richardson, and named the islands which were in view from our +encampment Couper’s Isles in honour of a friend of his. The sun set +this night at thirty minutes after eleven apparent time. + + [27] Captain Parry’s success was at this time unknown to us. + + +The travelling distance from Fort Enterprise to the north of the +Copper-Mine River is about three hundred and thirty-four miles. The +canoes and baggage were dragged over snow and ice for one hundred and +seventeen miles of this distance. + + + + +CHAPTER 11. + +NAVIGATION OF THE POLAR SEA, IN TWO CANOES, AS FAR AS CAPE TURNAGAIN, +TO THE EASTWARD, A DISTANCE EXCEEDING FIVE HUNDRED AND FIFTY MILES. +OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABILITY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. + + +NAVIGATION OF THE POLAR SEA, IN TWO CANOES, AS FAR AS CAPE TURNAGAIN, +TO THE EASTWARD, A DISTANCE EXCEEDING FIVE HUNDRED AND FIFTY MILES. + + +July 20, 1821. + +We intended to have embarked early this morning and to have launched +upon an element more congenial with our habits than the freshwater +navigations with their numerous difficulties and impediments which we +had hitherto encountered, but which was altogether new to our Canadian +voyagers. We were detained however by a strong north-east gale which +continued the whole day with constant thundershowers, the more +provoking as our nets procured but few fish and we had to draw upon our +store of dried meat, which, with other provision for the journey, +amounted only to fifteen days’ consumption. Indeed we should have +preferred going dinnerless to bed rather than encroach on our small +stock had we not been desirous of satisfying the appetites and cheering +the spirits of our Canadian companions at the commencement of our +voyage. These thoughtless people would at any time incur the hazard of +absolute starvation at a future period for the present gratification of +their appetites, to indulge which they do not hesitate, as we more than +once experienced, at helping themselves secretly, it being in their +opinion no disgrace to be detected in pilfering food. + +Our only luxury now was a little salt which had long been our +substitute both for bread and vegetables. Since our departure from +Point Lake we had boiled the Indian tea plant, _Ledum palustre_, which +provided a beverage in smell much resembling rhubarb, notwithstanding +which we found it refreshing and were gratified to see this plant +flourishing abundantly on the sea shore though of dwarfish growth. + +July 21. + +The wind which had blown strong through the night became moderate in +the morning, but a dense fog prevented us from embarking until noon +when we commenced our voyage on the Hyperborean Sea. Soon afterwards we +landed on an island where the Esquimaux had erected a stage of drift +timber, and stored up many of their fishing implements and winter +sledges, together with a great many dressed seal, musk-ox, and deer +skins. Their spears, headed with bone and many small articles of the +same material, were worked with extreme neatness, as well as their +wooden dishes and cooking utensils of stone, and several articles, very +elegantly formed of bone, were evidently intended for some game, but +Augustus was unacquainted with their use. We took from this deposit +four seal-skins to repair our shoes and left in exchange a +copper-kettle, some awls and beads. + +We paddled all day along the coast to the eastward on the inside of a +crowded range of islands and saw very little ice; the blink of it +however was visible to the northward, and one small iceberg was seen at +a distance. A tide was distinguishable among the islands by the foam +floating on the water but we could not ascertain its direction. In the +afternoon St. Germain killed on an island a fat deer which was a great +acquisition to us; it was the first we had seen for some months in good +condition. + +Having encamped on the main shore after a run of thirty-seven miles we +set up a pole to ascertain the rise and fall of the water, which was +repeated at every halting-place, and Hepburn was ordered to attend to +the result. We found the coast well covered with vegetation of moderate +height, even in its outline, and easy of approach. The islands are +rocky and barren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. I +have named the westernmost group of those we passed Berens’ Isles in +honour of the Governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company, and the easternmost +Sir Graham Moore’s Islands. At the spot where we landed some +mussel-shells and a single piece of seaweed lay on the beach; this was +the only spot on the coast where we saw shells. We were rejoiced to +find the beach strewed with abundance of small driftwood none of it +recent. + +It may be remarked that the Copper-Mine River does not bring down any +driftwood, nor does any other known stream except Mackenzie’s River, +hence from its appearance on this part of the coast an easterly current +may be inferred. This evening we were all in high glee at the progress +we had made; the disappearance of the ice and the continuance of the +land in an eastern direction and our future prospects formed an +enlivening subject of conversation. The thermometer varied during the +day between 43 and 45°. The fishing-nets were set but produced nothing. + +On the 22nd we embarked at four A.M. and, having the benefit of a light +breeze, continued our voyage along the coast under sail until eleven +when we halted to breakfast and to obtain the latitude. The coast up to +this point presented the same general appearance as yesterday, namely a +gravelly or sandy beach skirted by green plains, but as we proceeded +the shore became exceedingly rocky and sterile and at last, projecting +considerably to the northward, it formed a high and steep promontory. +Some ice had drifted down upon this cape which we feared might check +our progress but, as the evening was fine, we ventured upon pushing the +canoes through the small channels formed among it. After pursuing this +kind of navigation with some danger and more anxiety we landed and +encamped on a smooth rocky point whence we perceived with much +satisfaction that the ice consisted only of detached pieces which would +be removed by the first breeze. We sounded in seventeen fathoms close +to the shore this day. The least depth ascertained by the lead since +our departure from the river was six fathoms, and any ship might pass +safely between the islands and the main. The water is of a light green +colour but not very clear and much less salt than that of the Atlantic, +judging from our recollection of its taste. In the course of the day we +saw geese and ducks with their young and two deer, and experienced very +great variations of temperature from the light breezes blowing +alternately from the ice and the land. The name of Lawford’s Islands +was bestowed on a group we passed in the course of the day as a mark of +my respect for Vice-Admiral Lawford, under whose auspices I first +entered the naval service. + +A fresh breeze blowing through the night had driven the ice from the +land and opened a channel of a mile in width; we therefore embarked at +nine A.M. to pursue our journey along the coast but, at the distance of +nine miles were obliged to seek shelter in Port Epworth, the wind +having become adverse and too strong to admit of our proceeding. The +Tree River of the Esquimaux which discharges its waters into this bay +appears to be narrow and much interrupted by rapids. The fishing-nets +were set but obtained only one white-fish and a few bull-heads. This +part of the coast is the most sterile and inhospitable that can be +imagined. One trap-cliff succeeds another with tiresome uniformity and +their _débris_ cover the narrow valleys that intervene, to the +exclusion of every kind of herbage. From the summit of these cliffs the +ice appeared in every direction. + +We obtained the following observations during our stay: latitude 67° +42′ 15″ North, longitude 112° 30′ 00″ West, variation 47° 37′ 42″ East. + +The wind abating, at eight P.M. we reembarked and soon afterwards +discovered on an island a reindeer, which the interpreters fortunately +killed. Resuming our voyage we were much impeded by the ice and at +length, being unable to force a passage through a close stream that had +collected round a cape, we put ashore at four A.M. On the 24th several +stone fox-traps and other traces of the Esquimaux were seen near the +encampment. The horizontal refraction varied so much this morning that +the upper limb of the sun twice appeared at the horizon before it +finally rose. + +For the last two days the water rose and fell about nine inches. The +tides however seemed to be very irregular and we could not determine +the direction of the ebb or flood. A current setting to the eastward +was running about two miles an hour during our stay. The ice having +removed a short distance from the shore by eleven A.M. we embarked, and +with some difficulty effected a passage, then, making a traverse across +Gray’s Bay,[28] we paddled up under the eastern shore against a strong +wind. The interpreters landed here and went in pursuit of a deer but +had no success. This part of the coast is indented by deep bays which +are separated by peninsulas formed like wedges, sloping many miles into +the sea and joined by low land to the main, so that, often mistaking +them for islands, we were led by a circuitous route round the bays. +Cliffs were numerous on the islands which were all of the trap +formation. + + [28] Named after Mr. Gray principal of the Belfast Academy. An island + which lies across the mouth of this bay bears the name of our English + sailor Hepburn. + + +At seven, a thunderstorm coming on, we encamped at the mouth of a river +about eighty yards wide and set four nets. This stream, which received +the name of Wentzel after our late companion, discharges a considerable +body of water. Its banks are sandy and clothed with herbage. The +Esquimaux had recently piled up some drift timber here. A few ducks, +ravens, and snow-birds were seen today. The distance made was +thirty-one miles. + +July 25. + +We had constant rain with thunder during the night. The nets furnished +only three salmon-trout. We attributed the want of greater success to +the entrance of some seals into the mouth of the river. Embarking at +six A.M. we paddled against a cold breeze until the spreading of a +thick fog caused us to land. The rocks here consisted of a beautiful +mixture of red and gray granite, traversed from north to south by veins +of red felspar which were crossed in various directions by smaller +veins filled with the same substance. + +At noon the wind coming from a favourable quarter tempted us to +proceed, although the fog was unabated. We kept as close as we could to +the main shore but, having to cross some bays, it became a matter of +doubt whether we had not left the main and were running along an +island. Just as we were endeavouring to double a bold cape the fog +partially cleared away and allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of +islands on the outside, and of much heavy ice which was pressing down +upon us. The coast near us was so steep and rugged that no landing of +the cargoes could be effected and we were preserved only by some men +jumping on the rocks and thrusting the ice off with poles. There was no +alternative but to continue along this dreary shore seeking a channel +between the different masses of ice which had accumulated at the +various points. In this operation both the canoes were in imminent +danger of being crushed by the ice which was now tossed about by the +waves that the gale had excited. We effected a passage however and, +keeping close to the shore, landed at the entrance of Detention Harbour +at nine P.M., having come twenty-eight miles. An old Esquimaux +encampment was traced on this spot, and an ice chisel, a copper knife, +and a small iron knife were found under the turf. I named this cape +after Mr. Barrow of the Admiralty to whose exertions are mainly owing +the discoveries recently made in Arctic geography. An opening on its +eastern side received the appellation of Inman Harbour after my friend +the Professor at the Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and to a group of +islands to seaward of it we gave the name of Jameson in honour of the +distinguished Professor of Mineralogy at Edinburgh. + +We had much wind and rain during the night and by the morning of the +26th a great deal of ice had drifted into the inlet. We embarked at +four and attempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got +enclosed and remained for some time in a very perilous situation: the +pieces of ice, crowded together by the action of the current and wind, +pressing strongly against its feeble sides. A partial opening however +occurring we landed without having sustained any serious injury. Two +men were then sent round the bay and it was ascertained that, instead +of having entered a narrow passage between an island and the main, we +were at the mouth of a harbour having an island at its entrance, and +that it was necessary to return by the way we came and get round a +point to the northward. This was however impracticable, the channel +being blocked up by drift ice, and we had no prospect of release except +by a change of wind. This detention was extremely vexatious as we were +losing a fair wind and expending our provision. In the afternoon the +weather cleared up and several men went hunting but were unsuccessful. +During the day the ice floated backwards and forwards in the harbour, +moved by currents not regular enough to deserve the name of tide, and +which appeared to be governed by the wind. We perceived great +diminution by melting in the pieces near us. That none of this ice +survives the summer is evident from the rapidity of its decay and +because no ice of last year’s formation was hanging on the rocks. +Whether any body of it exists at a distance from the shore we could not +determine. + +The land around Cape Barrow and to Detention Harbour consists of steep +craggy mountains of granite rising so abruptly from the water’s edge as +to admit few landing-places even for a canoe. The higher parts attain +an elevation of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet and the whole is +entirely destitute of vegetation. + +On the morning of the 27th, the ice remaining stationary at the +entrance, we went to the bottom of the harbour and carried the canoes +and cargoes about a mile and a half across the point of land that forms +the east side of it, but the ice was not more favourable there for our +advancement than at the place we had left. It consisted of small pieces +closely packed together by the wind extending along the shore but +leaving a clear passage beyond the chain of islands with which the +whole of this coast is girt. Indeed when we left the harbour we had +little hope of finding a passage, and the principal object in moving +was to employ the men in order to prevent their reflecting upon and +discussing the dangers of our situation which we knew they were too apt +to do when leisure permitted. Our observations place the entrance of +Detention Harbour in latitude 67° 53′ 45″, longitude 110° 41′ 20″ West, +variation 40° 49′ 34″ East. It is a secure anchorage being sheltered +from the wind in every direction; the bottom is sandy. + +July 28. + +As the ice continued in the same state several of the men were sent out +to hunt, and one of them fired no less than four times at deer but +unfortunately without success. It was satisfactory however to ascertain +that the country was not destitute of animals. We had the mortification +to discover that two of the bags of pemmican which was our principal +reliance had become mouldy by wet. Our beef too had been so badly cured +as to be scarcely eatable through our having been compelled from haste +to dry it by fire instead of the sun. It was not however the quality of +our provision that gave us uneasiness but its diminution and the utter +incapacity to obtain any addition. Seals were the only animals that met +our view at this place and these we could never approach. + +Dr. Richardson discovered near the beach a small vein of galena +traversing gneiss rocks, and the people collected a quantity of it in +the hope of adding to our stock of balls, but their endeavours to smelt +it were as may be supposed ineffectual. The drift timber on this part +of the coast consists of pine and taccamahac (_Populus balsamifera_), +most probably from Mackenzie’s or some other river to the westward of +the Copper-Mine. It all appears to have lain long in the water, the +bark being completely worn off and the ends of the pieces rubbed +perfectly smooth. There had been a sharp frost in the night which +formed a pretty thick crust of ice in a kettle of water that stood in +the tents, and for several nights thin films of ice had appeared on the +salt water amongst the cakes of stream ice.[29] Notwithstanding this +state of temperature we were tormented by swarms of mosquitoes; we had +persuaded ourselves that these pests could not sustain the cold in the +vicinity of the sea but it appears they haunt every part of this +country in defiance of climate. Mr. Back made an excursion to a hill at +seven or eight miles distance and from its summit he perceived the ice +close to the shore as far as his view extended. + + [29] This is termed _bay-ice_ by the Greenland men. + + +On the morning of the 29th the party attended divine service. About +noon, the ice appearing less compact, we embarked to change our +situation, having consumed all the fuel within our reach. The wind came +off the land just as the canoes had started and we determined on +attempting to force a passage along the shore, in which we happily +succeeded after seven hours’ labour and much hazard to our frail +vessels. The ice lay so close that the crews disembarked on it and +effected a passage by bearing against the pieces with their poles, but +in conducting the canoes through the narrow channels thus formed the +greatest care was requisite to prevent the sharp projecting points from +breaking the bark. They fortunately received no material injury though +they were split in two places. + +At the distance of three miles we came to the entrance of a deep bay +whose bottom was filled by a body of ice so compact as to preclude the +idea of a passage through it, whilst at the same time the traverse +across its mouth was attended with much danger from the approach of a +large field of ice which was driving down before the wind. The dread of +further detention however prevented us from hesitating, and we had the +satisfaction of landing in an hour and a half on the opposite shore, +where we halted to repair the canoes and to dine. I have named this bay +after my friend Mr. Daniel Moore of Lincoln’s Inn, to whose zeal for +science the Expedition was indebted for the use of a most valuable +chronometer. Its shores are picturesque, sloping hills receding from +the beach and closed with verdure bound its bottom and western side, +and lofty cliffs of slate clay with their intervening grassy valleys +skirt its eastern border. Embarking at midnight we pursued our voyage +without interruption, passing between the Stockport and Marcet Islands +and the main, until six A.M. on July 30th when, having rounded Point +Kater, we entered Arctic Sound and were again involved in a stream of +ice, but after considerable delay extricated ourselves and proceeded +towards the bottom of the inlet in search of the mouth of a river which +we supposed it to receive, from the change in the colour of the water. + +About ten A.M. we landed to breakfast on a small deer which St. Germain +had killed, and sent men in pursuit of some others in sight but with +which they did not come up. Reembarking we passed the river without +perceiving it and entered a deep arm of the sound which I have named +Baillie’s Cove in honour of a relative of the lamented Mr. Hood. As it +was too late to return we encamped and, by walking across the country, +discovered the river whose mouth, being barred by low sandy islands and +banks, was not perceived when we passed it. Course and distance from +Galena Point to this encampment were South-East 3/4 South forty miles. + +From the accounts of Black-Meat and Boileau at Fort Chipewyan we +considered this river to be the Anatessy, and Cape Barrow to be the +projection which they supposed to be the North-East termination of +America. The outline of the coast indeed bears some resemblance to the +chart they sketched, and the distance of this river from the +Copper-Mine nearly coincides with what we estimated the Anatessy to be +from their statements. In our subsequent journey however across the +barren grounds we ascertained that this conjecture was wrong, and that +the Anatessy, which is known to come from Rum Lake, must fall into the +sea to the eastward of this place. + +Our stock of provision being now reduced to eight days’ consumption it +had become a matter of the first importance to obtain a supply and, as +we had learned from Terregannœuck that the Esquimaux frequent the +rivers at this season, I determined on seeking a communication with +them here, in the hope of obtaining relief for our present wants or +even shelter for the winter if the season should prevent us from +returning either to the Hook’s party or Fort Enterprise, and I was the +more induced to take this step at this time as several deer had been +seen today and the river appeared good for fishing, which led me to +hope we might support the party during our stay if not add to our stock +by our own exertions in hunting and fishing. Augustus, Junius, and +Hepburn were therefore furnished with the necessary presents and +desired to go along the bank of the river as far as they could on the +following day in search of the natives to obtain provision and leather +as well as information respecting the coast. + +They started at four A.M. and at the same time our hunters were sent +off in search of deer, and the rest of the party proceeded in the +canoes to the first cascade in the river, at the foot of which we +encamped and set four nets. This cascade, produced by a ridge of rocks +crossing the stream, is about three or four feet in height and about +two hundred and fifty yards wide. Its position by our observations in +latitude 67° 19′ 23″ North, longitude 109° 44′ 30″ West, variation 41° +43′ 22″, dip 88° 58′ 48″. I have named this river Hood as a small +tribute to the memory of our lamented friend and companion. It is from +three to four hundred yards wide below the cascade but in many places +very shallow. The banks, bottom, and adjacent hills are formed of a +mixture of sand and clay. The ground was overspread with small willows +and the dwarf birch, both too diminutive for fuel, and the stream +brought down no driftwood. We were mortified to find the nets only +procured one salmon and five white-fish, and that we had to make +another inroad upon our dried meat. + +August 1. + +At two this morning the hunters returned with two small deer and a +brown bear. Augustus and Junius arrived at the same time, having traced +the river twelve miles farther up without discovering any vestige of +inhabitants. We had now an opportunity of gratifying our curiosity +respecting the bear so much dreaded by the Indians, and of whose +strength and ferocity we had heard such terrible accounts. It proved to +be a lean male of a yellowish brown colour and not longer than a common +black bear. It made a feeble attempt to defend itself and was easily +despatched. The flesh was brought to the tent but, our fastidious +voyagers supposing, from its leanness, that the animal had been sickly, +declined eating it; the officers however being less scrupulous boiled +the paws and found them excellent. + +We embarked at ten A.M. and, proceeding down the river, took on board +another deer that had been killed by Crédit that evening. We then ran +along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, distinguished by the name of +Banks’ Peninsula in honour of the late Right Honourable Sir Joseph +Banks, President of the Royal Society and, rounding Point Wollaston at +its eastern extremity, opened another extensive sheet of water, and the +remainder of the afternoon was spent in endeavouring to ascertain from +the tops of the hills whether it was another bay or merely a passage +enclosed by a chain of islands. Appearances rather favouring the latter +opinion we determined on proceeding through it to the southward. During +the delay four more deer were killed, all young and lean. It appeared +that the coast is pretty well frequented by reindeer at this season, +but it was rather singular that hitherto we had killed none (excepting +the first) but young ones of last season which were all too lean to +have been eaten by any but persons who had no choice. + +We paddled along the western shore with the intention of encamping but +were prevented by the want of driftwood on the beach. This induced us +to make a traverse to an island where we put up at midnight, having +found a small bay whose shores furnished us with a little firewood. A +heavy gale came on from the westward attended with constant rain, and +one of the squalls overthrew our tents. The course and distance made +this day were north-east sixteen miles and a half. I may here mention +that Arctic Sound appeared the most convenient and perhaps the best +place for ships to anchor that we had seen along the coast, at this +season especially, when they might increase their stock of provision, +if provided with good marksmen. Deer are numerous in its vicinity, +musk-oxen also may be found up Hood’s River, and the fine sandy bottom +of the bays promises favourably for fishing with the seine. The hills +on the western side are even in their outline and slope gradually to +the water’s edge. The rocks give place to an alluvial sandy soil +towards the bottom of the Sound, but on Banks’ Peninsula rocky +eminences again prevail which are rugged and uneven but intersected by +valleys, at this time green; along their base is a fine sandy beach. +From Point Wollaston to our encampment the coast is skirted with trap +cliffs which have often a columnar form and are very difficult of +access. These cliffs lie in ranges parallel to the shore and the deer +that we killed were feeding in small marshy grassy plats that lie in +the valleys between them. + +Being detained by the continuance of the gale on the 2nd of August some +men were sent out to hunt and the officers visited the tops of the +highest hills to ascertain the best channels to be pursued. The wind +abating at ten P.M. we embarked and paddled round the southern end of +the island and continued our course to the south-east. Much doubt at +this time prevailed as to the land on the right being the main shore or +merely a chain of islands. The latter opinion was strengthened by the +broken appearance of the land and the extensive view we had up Brown’s +Channel (named after my friend Mr. Robert Brown) the mouth of which we +passed and were in some apprehension of being led away from the main +shore and, perhaps after passing through a group of islands, of coming +to a traverse greater than we durst venture upon in canoes: on the +other hand the continuous appearance of the land on the north side of +the channel and its tending to the southward excited the fear that we +were entering a deep inlet. + +In this state of doubt we landed often and endeavoured, from the +summits of the highest hills adjoining the shore, to ascertain the true +nature of the coast but in vain, and we continued paddling through the +channel all night against a fresh breeze, which at half-past four +increased to a violent gale and compelled us to land. The gale +diminished a short time after noon on the 3rd and permitted us to +reembark and continue our voyage until four P.M., when it returned with +its former violence and finally obliged us to encamp, having come +twenty-four miles on a south-east three-quarter south course. + +From the want of driftwood to make a fire we had fasted all day and +were under the necessity in the evening of serving out pemmican, which +was done with much reluctance, especially as we had some fresh deers’ +meat remaining. The inlet when viewed from a high hill adjoining to our +encampment exhibited so many arms that the course we ought to pursue +was more uncertain than ever. It was absolutely necessary however to +see the end of it before we could determine that it was not a strait. +Starting at three A.M. on the 4th we paddled the whole day through +channels from two to five or six miles wide, all tending to the +southward. In the course of the day’s voyage we ascertained that the +land which we had seen on our right since yesterday morning consisted +of several large islands which have been distinguished by the names of +Goulburn, Elliott, and Young, but the land on our left preserved its +unbroken appearance and when we encamped we were still uncertain +whether it was the eastern side of a deep sound or merely a large +island. It differed remarkably from the main shore, being very rugged, +rocky, and sterile, whereas the outline of the main on the opposite +side was even and its hills covered with a comparatively good sward of +grass exhibiting little naked rock. There was no drift timber but the +shores near the encampment were strewed with small pieces of willow +which indicated our vicinity to the mouth of a river. This fuel enabled +us to make a hearty supper from a small deer killed this evening. + +The shallows we passed this day were covered with shoals of _capelin_, +the angmaggœük of the Esquimaux. It was known to Augustus who informed +us that it frequents the coast of Hudson’s Bay and is delicate eating. +The course and distance made was south by east-half-east, thirty-three +miles. + +After paddling twelve miles in the morning of the 5th we had the +mortification to find the inlet terminated by a river, the size of +which we could not ascertain as the entrance was blocked by shoals. Its +mouth lies in latitude 66° 30′ North, longitude 107° 53′ West. I have +named this stream Back as a mark of my friendship for my associate.[30] +We were somewhat consoled for the loss of time in exploring this inlet +by the success of Junius in killing a musk-ox, the first we had seen on +the coast; and afterwards by the acquisition of the flesh of a bear +that was shot as we were returning up the eastern side in the evening. +The latter proved to be a female in very excellent condition; and our +Canadian voyagers whose appetite for fat meat is insatiable were +delighted. + + [30] From subsequent conversation with the Copper Indians we were + inclined to suppose this may be the Thlueetessy described by Black + Meat mentioned in a former part of the narrative. + + +We encamped on the shores of a sandy bay and set the nets and, finding +a quantity of dried willows on the beach, we were enabled to cook the +bear’s flesh which was superior to any meat we tasted on the coast. The +water fell two feet at this place during the night. Our nets produced a +great variety of fish, namely a salmon trout, some round-fish, +tittameg, bleak, star-fish, several herrings and a flat fish resembling +plaice, but covered on the back with horny excrescences. + +On the 6th we were detained in the encampment by stormy weather until +five P.M. when we embarked and paddled along the northern shore of the +inlet, the weather still continuing foggy but the wind moderate. +Observing on the beach a she-bear with three young ones we landed a +party to attack them but, being approached without due caution, they +took the alarm and scaled a precipitous rocky hill with a rapidity that +baffled all pursuit. At eight o’clock, the fog changing into rain, we +encamped. Many seals were seen this day but as they kept in deep water +we did not fire at them. + +On August 7th the atmosphere was charged with fog and rain all the day, +but as the wind was moderate we pursued our journey; our situation +however was very unpleasant, being quite wet and without room to +stretch a limb, much less to obtain warmth by exercise. We passed a +cove which I have named after my friend Mr. W.H. Tinney, and proceeded +along the coast until five P.M. when we put up on a rocky point nearly +opposite to our encampment on the 3rd, having come twenty-three miles +on a north-north-west course. + +We were detained on the 8th by a northerly gale which blew violently +throughout the day attended by fog and rain. Some of the men went out +to hunt but they saw no other animal than a white wolf which could not +be approached. The fresh meat being expended a little pemmican was +served out this evening. + +The gale abated on the morning of the 9th and the sea, which it had +raised, having greatly subsided, we embarked at seven A.M. and, after +paddling three or four miles, opened Sir J.A. Gordon’s Bay into which +we penetrated thirteen miles and then discovered from the summit of a +hill that it would be in vain to proceed in this direction in search of +a passage out of the inlet. + +Our breakfast diminished our provision to two bags of pemmican and a +single meal of dried meat. The men began to apprehend absolute want of +food and we had to listen to their gloomy forebodings of the deer +entirely quitting the coast in a few days. As we were embarking however +a large bear was discovered on the opposite shore which we had the good +fortune to kill, and the sight of this fat meat relieved their fears +for the present. Dr. Richardson found in the stomach of this animal the +remains of a seal, several marmots (_Arctomys richardsonii_) a large +quantity of the liquorice root of Mackenzie (_hedysarum_) which is +common on these shores, and some berries. There was also intermixed +with these substances a small quantity of grass. + +We got again into the main inlet and paddled along its eastern shore +until forty minutes after eight A.M. when we encamped in a small cove. +We found a single log of driftwood; it was pine and sufficiently large +to enable us to cook a portion of the bear which had a slight fishy +taste but was deemed very palatable. + +August 10. + +We followed up the east border of the inlet about twenty-four miles and +at length emerged into the opens sea, a body of islands to the westward +concealing the channel by which we had entered. Here our progress was +arrested by returning bad weather. We killed a bear and its young cub +of this year on the beach near our encampment. We heartily +congratulated ourselves at having arrived at the eastern entrance of +this inlet which had cost us nine invaluable days in exploring. It +contains several secure harbours, especially near the mouth of Back’s +River where there is a sandy bottom in forty fathoms. + +On the 3rd and 4th of August we observed a fall of more than two feet +in the water during the night. There are various irregular and partial +currents in the inlet which may be attributed to the wind. I have +distinguished it by the name of Bathurst’s Inlet after the noble +Secretary of State under whose orders I had the honour to act. It runs +about seventy-six miles south-east from Cape Everitt but in coasting +its shores we went about one hundred and seventy-four geographical +miles. It is remarkable that none of the Indians with whom we had +spoken mentioned this inlet, and we subsequently learned that in their +journeys they strike across from the mouth of one river to the mouth of +another without tracing the intermediate line of coast. + +August 11. + +Embarking at five A.M. we rounded Point Everitt and then encountered a +strong breeze and heavy swell which, by causing the canoes to pitch +very much, greatly impeded our progress. Some deer being seen grazing +in a valley near the beach we landed and sent St. Germain and Adam in +pursuit of them who soon killed three which were very small and lean. +Their appearance however quite revived the spirits of our men who had +suspected that the deer had retired to the woods. It would appear from +our not having seen any in passing along the shores of Bathurst’s Inlet +that at this season they confine themselves to the sea-coast and the +islands. The magpie-berries (_Arbutus alpina_) were found quite ripe at +this place, and very abundant on the acclivities of the hills. We also +ascended the highest hill and gained a view of a distant chain of +islands extending as far as the eye could reach, and perceived a few +patches of ice still lingering round to some of them, but in every +other part the sea was quite open. Resuming our voyage after noon we +proceeded along the coast which is fringed by islands, and at five P.M. +entered another bay where we were for some time involved in our late +difficulties by the intricacy of the passages, but we cleared them in +the afternoon and encamped near the northern entrance of the bay at a +spot which had recently been visited by a small party of Esquimaux, as +the remains of some eggs containing young were lying beside some +half-burnt firewood. There were also several piles of stones put up by +them. I have named this bay after my friend Captain David Buchan of the +Royal Navy. It appears to be a safe anchorage, well sheltered from the +wind and sea by islands; the bottom is sandy, the shores high and +composed of red sandstone. Two deer were seen on its beach but could +not be approached. The distance we made today was eighteen miles and +three-quarters. + +Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th we proceeded against a +fresh piercing north-east wind which raised the waves to a height that +quite terrified our people, accustomed only to the navigation of rivers +and lakes. We were obliged however to persevere in our advance, feeling +as we did that the short season for our operations was hastening away, +but after rounding Cape Croker the wind became so strong that we could +proceed no farther. The distance we had made was only six miles on a +north-east by east course. The shore on which we encamped is formed of +the _débris_ of red sandstone and is destitute of vegetation. The beach +furnished no driftwood and we dispensed with our usual meal rather than +expend our pemmican. Several deer were seen but the hunters could not +approach them; they killed two swans. We observed the latitude 68° 1′ +20″ where we had halted to breakfast this morning. + +August 13. + +Though the wind was not much diminished we were urged by the want of +firewood to venture upon proceeding. We paddled close to the shore for +some miles and then ran before the breeze with reefed sails scarcely +two feet in depth. Both the canoes received much water and one of them +struck twice on sunken rocks. At the end of eighteen miles we halted to +breakfast in a bay which I have named after Vice-Admiral Sir William +Johnstone Hope, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. + +We found here a considerable quantity of small willows such as are +brought down by the rivers we had hitherto seen, and hence we judged +that a river discharges itself into the bottom of this bay. A paddle +was also found which Augustus on examination declared to be made after +the fashion of the White Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his +countrymen had had some trading communication as has been mentioned in +a former part of the narrative. + +This morning we passed the embouchure of a pretty large stream and saw +the vestiges of an Esquimaux encampment not above a month old. Having +obtained the latitude 68° 6′ 40″ North we recommenced our voyage under +sail, taking the precaution to embark all the pieces of willow we could +collect, as we had found the driftwood become more scarce as we +advanced. Our course was directed to a distant point which we supposed +to be a cape, and the land stretching to the westward of it to be +islands, but we soon found ourselves in an extensive bay from which no +outlet could be perceived but the one by which we had entered. On +examination however from the top of a hill we perceived a winding +shallow passage running to the north-west which we followed for a short +time and then encamped, having come twenty-three miles north by east +half east. + +Some articles left by the Esquimaux attracted our attention; we found a +winter sledge raised upon four stones, with some snow-shovels and a +small piece of whalebone. An ice-chisel, a knife and some beads were +left at this pile. The shores of this bay, which I have named after Sir +George Warrender, are low and clayey and the country for many miles is +level and much intersected with water, but we had not leisure to +ascertain whether they were branches of the bay or freshwater lakes. +Some white geese were seen this evening and some young gray ones were +caught on the beach being unable to fly. We fired at two reindeer but +without success. + +On August 14th we paddled the whole day along the northern shores of +the sound, returning towards its mouth. The land we were now tracing is +generally so flat that it could not be descried from the canoes at the +distance of four miles and is invisible from the opposite side of the +sound, otherwise a short traverse might have saved us some days. The +few eminences that are on this side were mistaken for islands when seen +from the opposite shore; they are for the most part cliffs of basalt +and are not above one hundred feet high; the subjacent strata are of +white sandstone. The rocks are mostly confined to the capes and shores, +the soil inland being flat, clayey, and barren. Most of the headlands +showed traces of visits from the Esquimaux but none of them recent. +Many ducks were seen, belonging to a species termed by the voyagers +from their cry caccawees. We also saw some gray geese and swans. The +only seal we procured during our voyage was killed this day; it +happened to be blind and our men imagining it to be in bad health would +not taste the flesh; we however were less nice. + +We encamped at the end of twenty-four miles’ march on the north-west +side of the bay to which I have given the name of my friend Captain +Parry, now employed in the interesting research for a North-West +Passage. Driftwood had become very scarce and we found none near the +encampment; a fire however was not required as we served out pemmican +for supper and the evening was unusually warm. + +On the following morning the breeze was fresh and the waves rather +high. In paddling along the west side of Parry’s Bay we saw several +deer but, owing to the openness of the country, the hunters could not +approach them. They killed however two swans that were moulting, +several cranes and many gray geese. We procured also some caccawees +which were then moulting and assembled in immense flocks. In the +evening, having rounded Point Beechy and passed Hurd’s Islands, we were +exposed to much inconvenience and danger from a heavy rolling sea, the +canoes receiving many severe blows and shipping a good deal of water, +which induced us to encamp at five P.M. opposite to Cape Croker which +we had passed on the morning of the 12th; the channel which lay between +our situation and it being about seven miles wide. We had now reached +the northern point of entrance into this sound which I have named in +honour of Lord Viscount Melville, the first Lord of the Admiralty. It +is thirty miles wide from east to west and twenty from north to south, +and in coasting it we had sailed eighty-seven and a quarter +geographical miles. Shortly after the tents were pitched Mr. Back +reported from the steersman that both canoes had sustained material +injury during this day’s voyage. I found on examination that fifteen +timbers of the first canoe were broken, some of them in two places, and +that the second canoe was so loose in the frame that its timbers could +not be bound in the usual secure manner, and consequently there was +danger of its bark separating from the gunwales if exposed to a heavy +sea. Distressing as were these circumstances they gave me less pain +than the discovery that our people, who had hitherto displayed in +following us through dangers and difficulties no less novel than +appalling to them a courage beyond our expectation, now felt serious +apprehensions for their safety which so possessed their minds that they +were not restrained even by the presence of their officers from +expressing them. Their fears we imagined had been principally excited +by the interpreters, St. Germain and Adam, who from the outset had +foreboded every calamity; and we now strongly suspected that their +recent want of success in hunting had proceeded from an intentional +relaxation in their efforts to kill deer in order that the want of +provision might compel us to put a period to our voyage. + +I must now mention that many concurrent circumstances had caused me +during the few last days to meditate on the approach of this painful +necessity. The strong breezes we had encountered for some days led me +to fear that the season was breaking up and severe weather would soon +ensue which we could not sustain in a country destitute of fuel. Our +stock of provision was now reduced to a quantity of pemmican only +sufficient for three days’ consumption and the prospect of increasing +it was not encouraging for, though reindeer were seen, they could not +be easily approached on the level shores we were now coasting, besides +it was to be apprehended they would soon migrate to the south. It was +evident that the time spent in exploring the Arctic and Melville Sounds +and Bathurst’s Inlet had precluded the hope of reaching Repulse Bay, +which at the outset of the voyage we had fondly cherished, and it was +equally obvious that, as our distance from any of the trading +establishments would increase as we proceeded, the hazardous traverse +across the barren grounds which we should have to make if compelled to +abandon the canoes upon any part of the coast would become greater. + +I this evening communicated to the officers my sentiments on these +points as well as respecting our return and was happy to find that +their opinions coincided with my own. We were all convinced of the +necessity of putting a speedy termination to our advance as our hope of +meeting the Esquimaux and procuring provision from them could now +scarcely be retained, but yet we were desirous of proceeding until the +land should be seen trending again to the eastward, that we might be +satisfied of its separation from what we had conceived, in passing from +Cape Barrow to Bathurst’s Inlet, to be a great chain of islands. As it +was needful however at all events to set a limit to our voyage I +announced my determination of returning after four days’ examination, +unless indeed we should previously meet the Esquimaux and be enabled to +make some arrangement for passing the winter with them. This +communication was joyfully received by the men and we hoped that the +industry of our hunters being once more excited we should be able to +add to our stock of provision. + +It may here be remarked that we observed the first regular return of +the tides in Warrender’s and Parry’s Bays, but their set could not be +ascertained. The rise of water did not amount to more than two feet. +Course today south one quarter east-nine miles and a quarter. + +August 16. + +Some rain fell in the night but the morning was unusually fine. We set +forward at five A.M. and the men paddled cheerfully along the coast for +ten miles when a dense fog caused us to land on Slate-clay Point. Here +we found more traces of the Esquimaux and the skull of a man placed +between two rocks. The fog dispersed at noon and we discerned a group +of islands to the northward which I have named after Vice-Admiral Sir +George Cockburn, one of the Lords of the Admiralty. Reembarking we +rounded the point and entered Walker’s Bay (so-called after my friend +Admiral Walker) where as in other instances the low beach which lay +between several high trap cliffs could not be distinguished until we +had coasted down the east side nearly to the bottom of the bay. When +the continuity of the land was perceived we crossed to the western +shore and on landing discovered a channel leading through a group of +islands. Having passed through this channel we ran under sail by the +Porden Islands, across Riley’s Bay and, rounding a cape which now bears +the name of my lamented friend Captain Flinders, had the pleasure to +find the coast trending north-north-east, with the sea in the offing +unusually clear of islands, a circumstance which afforded matter of +wonder to our Canadians who had not previously had an uninterrupted +view of the ocean. + +Our course was continued along the coast until eight P.M. when a change +in the wind and a threatening thunder-squall induced us to encamp, but +the water was so shallow that we found some difficulty in approaching +the shore. Large pieces of driftwood gave us assurance that we had +finally escaped from the bays. Our tents were scarcely pitched before +we were assailed by a heavy squall and rain, which was succeeded by a +violent gale from west-north-west which thrice overset the tents during +the night. The wind blew with equal violence on the following day and +the sea rolled furiously upon the beach. The Canadians had now an +opportunity of witnessing the effect of a storm upon the sea and the +sight increased their desire of quitting it. + +Our hunters were sent out and saw many deer but the flatness of the +country defeated their attempts to approach them; they brought however +a few unfledged geese. As there was no appearance of increasing our +stock of provision the allowance was limited to a handful of pemmican +and a small portion of portable soup to each man per day. The +thermometer this afternoon stood to 41°. The following observations +were obtained: latitude 68° 18′ 50″ North, longitude 110° 5′ 15″ West, +but 109° 25′ 00″ West was used in the construction of the chart as the +chronometers were found, on our return to Hood’s River, to have altered +their rates; variation 44° 15′ 46″ East and dip of the needle 89° 31′ +12″. + +On August 18th, the stormy weather and sea continuing, there was no +prospect of our being able to embark. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Back, and I +therefore set out on foot to discover whether the land within a day’s +march inclined more to the east. We went from ten to twelve miles along +the coast, which continued flat, and kept the same direction as the +encampment. The most distant land we saw had the same bearing +north-north-east, and appeared like two islands which we estimated to +be six or seven miles off; the shore on their side seemingly tended +more to the east so that it is probable Point Turnagain, for so this +spot was named, forms the pitch of a low flat cape. + +Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon but the men were not able to +find it. The hunters found the burrows of a number of white foxes and +Hepburn killed one of these animals, which proved excellent eating, +equal to the young geese with which it was boiled and far superior to +the lean deer we had upon the coast. Large flocks of geese passed over +the tents flying to the southward. The lowest temperature today was +38°. + +Though it will appear from the chart that the position of Point +Turnagain is only six degrees and a half to the east of the mouth of +the Copper-Mine River, we sailed, in tracing the deeply-indented coast, +five hundred and fifty-five geographical miles, which is little less +than the direct distance between the Copper-Mine River and Repulse Bay, +supposing the latter to be in the longitude assigned to it by +Middleton. + +When the many perplexing incidents which occurred during the survey of +the coast are considered in connection with the shortness of the period +during which operations of the kind can be carried on, and the distance +we had to travel before we could gain a place of shelter for the +winter, I trust it will be judged that we prosecuted the enterprise as +far as was prudent and abandoned it only under a well-founded +conviction that a farther advance would endanger the lives of the whole +party and prevent the knowledge of what had been done from reaching +England. The active assistance I received from the officers in +contending with the fears of the men demands my warmest gratitude. + +OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROBABILITY OF A NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. + + +Our researches, as far as they have gone, favour the opinion of those +who contend for the practicability of a North-West Passage. The general +line of coast probably runs east and west, nearly in the latitude +assigned to Mackenzie’s River, the Sound into which Kotzebue entered, +and Repulse Bay, and I think there is little doubt of a continued sea +in or about that line of direction. The existence of whales too on this +part of the coast, evidenced by the whalebone we found in Esquimaux +Cove, may be considered as an argument for an open sea; and a +connection with Hudson’s Bay is rendered more probable from the same +kind of fish abounding on the coasts we visited, and on those to the +north of Churchill River. I allude more particularly to the Capelin or +Salmo arcticus which we found in large shoals in Bathurst’s Inlet and +which not only abounds, as Augustus told us, in the bays in his +country, but swarms in the Greenland firths.[31] The portion of the sea +over which we passed is navigable for vessels of any size; the ice we +met, particularly after quitting Detention Harbour, would not have +arrested a strong boat. The chain of islands affords shelter from all +heavy seas and there are good harbours at convenient distances. I +entertain indeed sanguine hopes that the skill and exertions of my +friend Captain Parry will soon render this question no longer +problematical. His task is doubtless an arduous one and if ultimately +successful may occupy two and perhaps three seasons but, confiding as I +do from personal knowledge in his perseverance and talent for +surmounting difficulties, the strength of his ships, and the abundance +of provisions with which they are stored, I have very little +apprehension of his safety. As I understand his object was to keep the +coast of America close on board he will find in the spring of the year, +before the breaking up of the ice can permit him to pursue his voyage, +herds of deer flocking in abundance to all parts of the coast, which +may be procured without difficulty, and even later in the season +additions to his stock of provision may be obtained on many parts of +the coast, should circumstances give him leisure to send out hunting +parties. With the trawl or seine nets also he may almost everywhere get +abundance of fish even without retarding his progress. Under these +circumstances I do not conceive that he runs any hazard of wanting +provisions should his voyage be prolonged even beyond the latest period +of time which is calculated upon. Drift timber may be gathered at many +places in considerable quantities and there is a fair prospect of his +opening a communication with the Esquimaux who come down to the coast +to kill seals in the spring previous to the ice breaking up, and from +whom, if he succeeds in conciliating their goodwill, he may obtain +provision and much useful assistance. + + [31] Arctic Zoology volume ii. page 394. + + +If he makes for Copper-Mine River, as he probably will do, he will not +find it in the longitude as laid down on the charts, but he will +probably find what would be more interesting to him, a post which we +erected on the 26th August at the mouth of Hood’s River which is +nearly, as will appear hereafter, in that longitude, with a flag upon +it and a letter at the foot of it, which may convey to him some useful +information. It is possible however that he may keep outside of the +range of islands which skirt this part of the coast. + + + + +CHAPTER 12. + +JOURNEY ACROSS THE BARREN GROUNDS. DIFFICULTY AND DELAY IN CROSSING +COPPER-MINE RIVER. MELANCHOLY AND FATAL RESULTS THEREOF. EXTREME MISERY +OF THE WHOLE PARTY. MURDER OF MR. HOOD. DEATH OF SEVERAL OF THE +CANADIANS. DESOLATE STATE OF FORT ENTERPRISE. DISTRESS SUFFERED AT THAT +PLACE. DR. RICHARDSON’S NARRATIVE. MR. BACK’S NARRATIVE. CONCLUSION. + + +JOURNEY ACROSS THE BARREN GROUNDS. + + +August 17, 1821. + +My original intention, whenever the season should compel us to +relinquish the survey, had been to return by the Copper-Mine River and, +in pursuance of my arrangement with the Hook, to travel to Slave Lake +through the line of woods extending thither by the Great Bear and +Marten Lakes, but our scanty stock of provision and the length of the +voyage rendered it necessary to make for a nearer place. We had already +found that the country between Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine River +would not supply our wants, and this it seemed probable would now be +still the case, besides at this advanced season we expected the +frequent recurrence of gales which would cause great detention if not +danger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the coast. + +I determined therefore to make at once for Arctic Sound where we had +found the animals more numerous than at any other place and, entering +Hood’s River, to advance up that stream as far as it was navigable and +then to construct small canoes out of the materials of the larger ones, +which could be carried in crossing the barren grounds to Fort +Enterprise. + +August 19. + +We were almost beaten out of our comfortless abodes by rain during the +night and this morning the gale continued without diminution. The +thermometer fell to 33°. Two men were sent with Junius to search for +the deer which Augustus had killed. Junius returned in the evening, +bringing part of the meat but, owing to the thickness of the weather, +his companions parted from him and did not make their appearance. +Divine service was read. On the 20th we were presented with the most +chilling prospect, the small pools of water being frozen over, the +ground covered with snow, and the thermometer at the freezing-point at +midday. Flights of geese were passing to the southward. The wind +however was more moderate, having changed to the eastward. Considerable +anxiety prevailing respecting Belanger and Michel, the two men who +strayed from Junius yesterday, the rest were sent out to look for them. +The search was successful and they all returned in the evening. The +stragglers were much fatigued and had suffered severely from the cold, +one of them having his thighs frozen and, what under our present +circumstances was most grievous, they had thrown away all the meat. The +wind during the night returned to the north-west quarter, blew more +violently than ever, and raised a very turbulent sea. The next day did +not improve our condition, the snow remained on the ground, and the +small pools were frozen. Our hunters were sent out but they returned +after a fatiguing day’s march without having seen any animals. We made +a scanty meal off a handful of pemmican, after which only half a bag +remained. + +The wind abated after midnight and the surf diminished rapidly, which +caused us to be on the alert at a very early hour on the 22nd, but we +had to wait until six A.M. for the return of Augustus who had continued +out all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of deer. It appears that he +had walked a few miles further along the coast than the party had done +on the 18th and, from a sketch he drew on the sand, we were confirmed +in our former opinion that the shore inclined more to the eastward +beyond Point Turnagain. He also drew a river of considerable size that +discharges its waters into Walker’s Bay, on the banks of which stream +he saw a piece of wood such as the Esquimaux use in producing fire, and +other marks so fresh that he supposed they had recently visited the +spot. We therefore left several iron materials for them and, embarking +without delay, prepared to retrace our steps.[32] Our men, cheered by +the prospect of returning, showed the utmost alacrity and, paddling +with unusual vigour, carried us across Riley’s and Walker’s Bays, a +distance of twenty miles before noon, when we landed on Slate-clay +Point as the wind had freshened too much to permit us to continue the +voyage. The whole party went to hunt but returned without success in +the evening, drenched with the heavy rain which commenced soon after +they had set out. Several deer were seen but could not be approached in +this naked country and, as our stock of pemmican did not admit of +serving out two meals, we went dinnerless to bed. + + [32] It is a curious coincidence that our Expedition left Point + Turnagain on August 22,—on the same day that Captain Parry sailed out + of Repulse Bay. The parties were then distant from each other 539 + miles. + + +Soon after our departure this day a sealed tin-case, sufficiently +buoyant to float, was thrown overboard, containing a short account of +our proceedings and the position of the most conspicuous points. The +wind blew off the land, the water was smooth and, as the sea is in this +part more free from islands than in any other, there was every +probability of its being driven off the shore into the current which, +as I have before mentioned, we suppose, from the circumstance of +Mackenzie’s River being the only known stream that brings down the wood +we have found along the shores, to set to the eastward. + +August 23. + +A severe frost caused us to pass a comfortless night. At two P.M. we +set sail and the men voluntarily launched out to make a traverse of +fifteen miles across Melville Sound before a strong wind and heavy sea. +The privation of food under which our voyagers were then labouring +absorbed every other terror; otherwise the most powerful persuasion +could not have induced them to attempt such a traverse. It was with the +utmost difficulty that the canoes were kept from turning their +broadsides to the waves, though we sometimes steered with all the +paddles. One of them narrowly escaped being overset by this accident, +which occurred in a mid-channel where the waves were so high that the +masthead of our canoe was often hid from the other, though it was +sailing within hail. + +The traverse however was made; we were then near a high rocky lee shore +on which a heavy surf was beating. The wind being on the beam, the +canoes drifted fast to leeward and, on rounding a point, the recoil of +the sea from the rocks was so great that they were with difficulty kept +from foundering. We looked in vain for a sheltered bay to land in but +at length, being unable to weather another point, we were obliged to +put ashore on the open beach which fortunately was sandy at this spot. +The debarkation was effected fortunately without further injury than +splitting the head of the second canoe, which was easily repaired. + +Our encampment being near the spot where we killed the deer on the +11th, almost the whole party went out to hunt, but returned in the +evening without having seen any game. The berries however were ripe and +plentiful and with the addition of some country tea furnished a supper. +There were some showers in the afternoon and the weather was cold, the +thermometer being 42°, but the evening and night were calm and fine. It +may be remarked that the mosquitoes disappeared when the late gales +commenced. + +August 24. + +Embarking at three A.M. we stretched across the eastern entrance of +Bathurst’s Inlet and arrived at an island which I have named after the +Right Honourable Colonel Barry of Newton Barry. Some deer being seen on +the beach the hunters went in pursuit of them and succeeded in killing +three females which enabled us to save our last remaining meal of +pemmican. They saw also some fresh tracks of musk-oxen on the banks of +a small stream which flowed into a lake in the centre of the island. +These animals must have crossed a channel at least three miles wide to +reach the nearest of these islands. Some specimens of variegated +pebbles and jasper were found here embedded in the amygdaloidal rock. + +Reembarking at two P.M. and continuing through what was supposed to be +a channel between two islands we found our passage barred by a gravelly +isthmus of only ten yards in width; the canoes and cargoes were carried +across it and we passed into Bathurst’s Inlet through another similar +channel bounded on both sides by steep rocky hills. The wind then +changing from South-East to North-West brought heavy rain, and we +encamped at seven P.M. having advanced eighteen miles. + +August 25. + +Starting this morning with a fresh breeze in our favour we soon reached +that part of Barry’s Island where the canoes were detained on the 2nd +and 3rd of this month and, contrary to what we then experienced, the +deer were now plentiful. The hunters killed two and relieved us from +all apprehension of immediate want of food. From their assembling at +this time in such numbers on the islands nearest to the coast we +conjectured that they were about to retire to the main shore. Those we +saw were generally females with their young and all of them very lean. + +The wind continued in the same direction until we had rounded Point +Wollaston and then changed to a quarter which enabled us to steer for +Hood’s River, which we ascended as high as the first rapid and +encamped. Here terminated our voyage on the Arctic Sea during which we +had gone over six hundred and fifty geographical miles. Our Canadian +voyagers could not restrain their joy at having turned their backs on +the sea, and passed the evening in talking over their past adventures +with much humour and no little exaggeration. The consideration that the +most painful, and certainly the most hazardous, part of the journey was +yet to come did not depress their spirits at all. It is due to their +character to mention that they displayed much courage in encountering +the dangers of the sea, magnified to them by their novelty. + +The shores between Cape Barrow and Cape Flinders, including the +extensive branches of Arctic and Melville Sounds and Bathurst’s Inlet, +may be comprehended in one great gulf which I have distinguished by the +appellation of George IV’s Coronation Gulf in honour of His Most +Gracious Majesty, the latter name being added to mark the time of its +discovery. The archipelago of islands which fringe the coast from +Copper-Mine River to Point Turnagain I have named in honour of His +Royal Highness the Duke of York. + +It may be deserving of notice that the extremes in temperature of the +seawater during our voyage were 53 and 35°, but its general temperature +was between 43 and 48°. Throughout our return from Point Turnagain we +observed that the sea had risen several feet above marks left at our +former encampments. This may perhaps be attributed to the north-west +gales. + +August 26. + +Previous to our departure this morning an assortment of iron materials, +beads, looking-glasses, and other articles were put up in a conspicuous +situation for the Esquimaux and the English Union was planted on the +loftiest sandhill where it might be seen by any ships passing in the +offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box a letter containing an +outline of our proceedings, the latitude and longitude of the principal +places, and the course we intended to pursue towards Slave Lake. + +Embarking at eight A.M. we proceeded up the river which is full of +sandy shoals but sufficiently deep for canoes in the channels. It is +from one hundred to two hundred yards wide and is bounded by high and +steep banks of clay. We encamped at a cascade of eighteen or twenty +feet high which is produced by a ridge of rock crossing the river and +the nets were set. A mile below this cascade Hood’s River is joined by +a stream half its own size which I have called James’ Branch. Bear and +deer tracks had been numerous on the banks of the river when we were +here before but not a single recent one was to be seen at this time. +Crédit however killed a small deer at some distance inland which, with +the addition of berries, furnished a delightful repast this evening. +The weather was remarkably fine and the temperature so mild that the +mosquitoes again made their appearance, but not in any great numbers. +Our distance made today was not more than six miles. + +The next morning the net furnished us with ten white-fish and trout. +Having made a further deposit of ironwork for the Esquimaux we pursued +our voyage up the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part were so +frequent that we walked along the banks the whole day and the crews +laboured hard in carrying the canoes thus lightened over the shoals or +dragging them up the rapids, yet our journey in a direct line was only +about seven miles. In the evening we encamped at the lower end of a +narrow chasm through which the river flows for upwards of a mile. The +walls of this chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite +perpendicular and in some places only a few yards apart. The river +precipitates itself into it over a rock, forming two magnificent and +picturesque falls close to each other. The upper fall is about sixty +feet high and the lower one at least one hundred but perhaps +considerably more, for the narrowness of the chasm into which it fell +prevented us from seeing its bottom and we could merely discern the top +of the spray far beneath our feet. The lower fall is divided into two +by an insulated column of rock which rises about forty feet above it. +The whole descent of the river at this place probably exceeds two +hundred and fifty feet. The rock is very fine felspathose sandstone. It +has a smooth surface and a light red colour. I have named these +magnificent cascades Wilberforce Falls as a tribute of my respect for +that distinguished philanthropist and Christian. Messrs. Back and Hood +took beautiful sketches of this majestic scene. + +The river, being surveyed from the summit of a hill above these falls, +appeared so rapid and shallow that it seemed useless to attempt +proceeding any farther in the large canoes. I therefore determined on +constructing out of their materials two smaller ones of sufficient size +to contain three persons for the purpose of crossing any river that +might obstruct our progress. This operation was accordingly commenced +and by the 31st, both the canoes being finished, we prepared for our +departure on the following day. + +The leather which had been preserved for making shoes was equally +divided among the men, two pairs of flannel socks were given to each +person, and such articles of warm clothing as remained were issued to +those who most required them. They were also furnished with one of the +officers’ tents. This being done I communicated to the men my intention +of proceeding in as direct a course as possible to the part of Point +Lake opposite our spring encampment, which was only distant one hundred +and forty-nine miles in a straight line. They received the +communication cheerfully, considered the journey to be short, and left +me in high spirits to arrange their own packages. The stores, books, +etc., which were not absolutely necessary to be carried were then put +up in boxes to be left _en cache_ here, in order that the men’s burdens +might be as light as possible. + +The next morning was warm and very fine. Everyone was on the alert at +an early hour, being anxious to commence the journey. Our luggage +consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chisels, astronomical +instruments, clothing, blankets, three kettles, and the two canoes, +which were each carried by one man. The officers carried such a portion +of their own things as their strength would permit; the weight carried +by each man was about ninety pounds, and with this we advanced at the +rate of about a mile an hour including rests. In the evening the +hunters killed a lean cow out of a large drove of musk-oxen; but the +men were too much laden to carry more than a small portion of its +flesh. The alluvial soil which, towards the mouth of the river, spreads +into plains covered with grass and willows, was now giving place to a +more barren and hilly country, so that we could but just collect +sufficient brushwood to cook our suppers. The part of the river we +skirted this day was shallow and flowed over a bed of sand, its width +about one hundred and twenty yards. About midnight our tent was blown +down by a squall and we were completely drenched with rain before it +could be repitched. + +On the morning of the 1st of September a fall of snow took place; the +canoes became a cause of delay from the difficulty of carrying them in +a high wind, and they sustained much damage through the falls of those +who had charge of them. The face of the country was broken by hills of +moderate elevation but the ground was plentifully strewed with small +stones which, to men bearing heavy burdens and whose feet were +protected only by soft moose-skin shoes, occasioned great pain. At the +end of eleven miles we encamped and sent for a musk-ox and a deer which +St. Germain and Augustus had killed. The day was extremely cold, the +thermometer varying between 34 and 36°. In the afternoon a heavy fall +of snow took place on the wind changing from north-west to south-west. +We found no wood at the encampment but made a fire of moss to cook the +supper and crept under our blankets for warmth. At sunrise the +thermometer was at 31° and the wind fresh from north-west, but the +weather became mild in the course of the forenoon and the snow +disappeared from the gravel. The afternoon was remarkably fine and the +thermometer rose to 50°. One of the hunters killed a musk-ox. The hills +in this part are lower and more round-backed than those we passed +yesterday, exhibiting but little naked rock; they were covered with +lichens. + +Having ascertained from the summit of the highest hill near the tents +that the river continued to preserve a west course and, fearing that by +pursuing it farther we might lose much time and unnecessarily walk over +a great deal of ground, I determined on quitting its banks the next day +and making as directly as we could for Point Lake. We accordingly +followed the river on the 3rd only to the place where the musk-ox had +been killed last evening and, after the meat was procured, crossed the +river in our two canoes lashed together. We now emerged from the valley +of the river and entered a level but very barren country, varied only +by small lakes and marshes, the ground being covered with small stones. +Many old tracks of reindeer were seen in the clayey soil and some more +recent traces of the musk-ox. We encamped on the borders of Wright’s +River which flows to the eastward, the direct distance walked today +being ten miles and three-quarters. The next morning was very fine and +as the day advanced the weather became quite warm. We set out at six +A.M. and, having forded the river, walked over a perfectly level +country interspersed with small lakes which communicated with each +other by streams running in various directions. No berry-bearing plants +were found in this part, the surface of the earth being thinly covered +in the moister places with a few grasses, and on the drier spots with +lichens. + +Having walked twelve miles and a half we encamped at seven P.M. and +distributed our last piece of pemmican and a little arrowroot for +supper which afforded but a scanty meal. This evening was warm but dark +clouds overspread the sky. Our men now began to find their burdens very +oppressive and were much fatigued by this day’s march but did not +complain. One of them was lame from an inflammation in the knee. Heavy +rain commenced at midnight and continued without intermission until +five in the morning, when it was succeeded by snow on the wind changing +to north-west, which soon increased to a violent gale. As we had +nothing to eat and were destitute of the means of making a fire, we +remained in our beds all the day, but the covering of our blankets was +insufficient to prevent us from feeling the severity of the frost and +suffering inconvenience from the drifting of the snow into our tents. +There was no abatement of the storm next day; our tents were completely +frozen and the snow had drifted around them to a depth of three feet, +and even in the inside there was a covering of several inches on our +blankets. Our suffering from cold in a comfortless canvas tent in such +weather with the temperature at 20° and without fire will easily be +imagined; it was however less than that which we felt from hunger. + +The morning of the 7th cleared up a little but the wind was still +strong and the weather extremely cold. From the unusual continuance of +the storm we feared the winter had set in with all its rigour and that +by longer delay we should only be exposed to an accumulation of +difficulties; we therefore prepared for our journey although we were in +a very unfit condition for starting, being weak from fasting and our +garments stiffened by the frost. We had no means of making a fire to +thaw them, the moss, at all times difficult to kindle, being now +covered with ice and snow. A considerable time was consumed in packing +up the frozen tents and bed clothes, the wind blowing so strong that no +one could keep his hands long out of his mittens. + +Just as we were about to commence our march I was seized with a +fainting fit in consequence of exhaustion and sudden exposure to the +wind but, after eating a morsel of portable soup, I recovered so far as +to be able to move on. I was unwilling at first to take this morsel of +soup, which was diminishing the small and only remaining meal for the +party, but several of the men urged me to it with much kindness. The +ground was covered a foot deep with snow, the margins of the lakes were +encrusted with ice, and the swamps over which we had to pass were +entirely frozen but the ice, not being sufficiently strong to bear us, +we frequently plunged knee-deep in water. Those who carried the canoes +were repeatedly blown down by the violence of the wind and they often +fell from making an insecure step on a slippery stone; on one of these +occasions the largest canoe was so much broken as to be rendered +utterly unserviceable. This we felt was a serious disaster as the +remaining canoe having through mistake been made too small, it was +doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry us across a river. +Indeed we had found it necessary in crossing Hood’s River to lash the +two canoes together. As there was some suspicion that Benoit, who +carried the canoe, had broken it intentionally, he having on a former +occasion been overheard by some of the men to say that he would do so +when he got it in charge, we closely examined him on the point; he +roundly denied having used the expressions attributed to him, and +insisted that it was broken by his falling accidentally and, as he +brought men to attest the latter fact who saw him tumble, we did not +press the matter further. I may here remark that our people had +murmured a good deal at having to carry two canoes, though they were +informed of the necessity of taking both in case it should be deemed +advisable to divide the party, which it had been thought probable we +should be obliged to do if animals proved scarce, in order to give the +whole the better chance of procuring subsistence, and also for the +purpose of sending forward some of the best walkers to search for +Indians and to get them to meet us with supplies of provision. The +power of doing this was now at an end. As the accident could not be +remedied we turned it to the best account by making a fire of the bark +and timbers of the broken vessel and cooked the remainder of our +portable soup and arrowroot. This was a scanty meal after three days’ +fasting but it served to allay the pangs of hunger and enabled us to +proceed at a quicker pace than before. The depth of the snow caused us +to march in Indian file, that is in each other’s steps, the voyagers +taking it in turn to lead the party. A distant object was pointed out +to this man in the direction we wished to take and Mr. Hood followed +immediately behind him to renew the bearings and keep him from +deviating more than could be helped from the mark. It may be here +observed that we proceeded in this manner throughout our route across +the barren grounds. + +In the afternoon we got into a more hilly country where the ground was +strewed with large stones. The surface of these was covered with +lichens of the genus _gyrophora_ which the Canadians term _tripe de +roche_. A considerable quantity was gathered and with half a partridge +each (which we shot in the course of the day) furnished a slender +supper which we cooked with a few willows dug up from beneath the snow. +We passed a comfortless night in our damp clothes but took the +precaution of sleeping upon our socks and shoes to prevent them from +freezing. This plan was afterwards adopted throughout the journey. + +At half-past five in the morning we proceeded and after walking about +two miles came to Cracroft’s River, flowing to the westward with a very +rapid current over a rocky channel. We had much difficulty in crossing +this, the canoe being useless, not only from the bottom of the channel +being obstructed by large stones, but also from its requiring gumming, +an operation which, owing to the want of wood and the frost, we were +unable to perform. However after following the course of the river some +distance we effected a passage by means of a range of large rocks that +crossed a rapid. As the current was strong and many of the rocks were +covered with water to the depth of two or three feet, the men were +exposed to much danger in carrying their heavy burdens across, and +several of them actually slipped into the stream but were immediately +rescued by the others. Junius went farther up the river in search of a +better crossing-place and did not rejoin us this day. As several of the +party were drenched from head to foot and we were all wet to the +middle, our clothes became stiff with the frost and we walked with much +pain for the remainder of the day. The march was continued to a late +hour from our anxiety to rejoin the hunters who had gone before, but we +were obliged to encamp at the end of ten miles and a quarter without +seeing them. Our only meal today consisted of a partridge each (which +the hunters shot) mixed with _tripe de roche_. This repast, although +scanty for men with appetites such as our daily fatigue created, proved +a cheerful one and was received with thankfulness. Most of the men had +to sleep in the open air in consequence of the absence of Crédit who +carried their tent, but we fortunately found an unusual quantity of +roots to make a fire, which prevented their suffering much from the +cold though the thermometer was at 17°. + +We started at six on the 9th and at the end of two miles regained our +hunters who were halting on the borders of a lake amidst a clump of +stunted willows. This lake stretched to the westward as far as we could +see and its waters were discharged by a rapid stream one hundred and +fifty yards wide. Being entirely ignorant where we might be led by +pursuing the course of the lake, and dreading the idea of going a mile +unnecessarily out of the way, we determined on crossing the river if +possible, and the canoe was gummed for the purpose, the willows +furnishing us with fire. But we had to await the return of Junius +before we could make the traverse. In the meantime we gathered a little +_tripe de roche_, and breakfasted upon it and a few partridges that +were killed in the morning. St. Germain and Adam were sent upon some +recent tracks of deer. Junius arrived in the afternoon and informed us +that he had seen a large herd of musk-oxen on the banks of Cracroft’s +River, and had wounded one of them but it escaped. He brought about +four pounds of meat, the remains of a deer that had been devoured by +the wolves. The poor fellow was much fatigued, having walked throughout +the night but, as the weather was particularly favourable for our +crossing the river, we could not allow him to rest. After he had taken +some refreshment we proceeded to the river. The canoe being put into +the water was found extremely ticklish, but it was managed with much +dexterity by St. Germain, Adam, and Peltier, who ferried over one +passenger at a time, causing him to lie flat in its bottom, by no means +a pleasant position owing to its leakiness, but there was no +alternative. The transport of the whole party was effected by five +o’clock and we walked about two miles farther and encamped, having come +five miles and three-quarters on a south-west course. Two young alpine +hares were shot by St. Germain which with the small piece of meat +brought in by Junius furnished the supper of the whole party. There was +no _tripe de roche_ here. The country had now become decidedly hilly +and was covered with snow. The lake preserved its western direction as +far as I could see from the summit of the highest mountain near the +encampment. We subsequently learned from the Copper Indians that the +part at which we had crossed the river was the _Congecatha-wha-chaga_ +of Hearne, of which I had little idea at the time, not only from the +difference of latitude, but also from its being so much farther east of +the mouth of the Copper-Mine River than his track is laid down, he only +making one degree and three-quarters’ difference of longitude and we +upwards of four. Had I been aware of the fact several days’ harassing +march and a disastrous accident would have been prevented by keeping on +the western side of the lake instead of crossing the river. We were +informed also that this river is the Anatessy or River of Strangers and +is supposed to fall into Bathurst’s Inlet, but although the Indians +have visited its mouth their description was not sufficient to identify +it with any of the rivers whose mouths we had seen. It probably +discharges itself in that part of the coast which was hid from our view +by Goulbourn’s or Elliott’s Islands. + +September 10. + +We had a cold north wind and the atmosphere was foggy. The thermometer +18° at five A.M. In the course of our march this morning we passed many +small lakes and the ground, becoming higher and more hilly as we +receded from the river, was covered to a much greater depth with snow. +This rendered walking not only extremely laborious but also hazardous +in the highest degree, for the sides of the hills, as is usual +throughout the barren grounds, abounding in accumulations of large +angular stones, it often happened that the men fell into the +interstices with their loads on their backs, being deceived by the +smooth appearance of the drifted snow. If anyone had broken a limb here +his fate would have been melancholy indeed; we could neither have +remained with him nor carried him on. We halted at ten to gather _tripe +de roche_, but it was so frozen that we were quite benumbed with cold +before a sufficiency could be collected even for a scanty meal. On +proceeding our men were somewhat cheered by observing on the sandy +summit of a hill, from whence the snow had been blown, the summer track +of a man, and afterwards by seeing several deer tracks on the snow. +About noon the weather cleared up a little and, to our great joy, we +saw a herd of musk-oxen grazing in a valley below us. The party +instantly halted and the best hunters were sent out; they approached +the animals with the utmost caution, no less than two hours being +consumed before they got within gunshot. In the meantime we beheld +their proceedings with extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers were +doubtless offered up for their success. At length they opened their +fire and we had the satisfaction of seeing one of the largest cows +fall; another was wounded but escaped. This success infused spirit into +our starving party. To skin and cut up the animal was the work of a few +minutes. The contents of the stomach were devoured upon the spot, and +the raw intestines which were next attacked were pronounced by the most +delicate amongst us to be excellent. A few willows whose tops were seen +peeping through the snow in the bottom of the valley were quickly +grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper cooked and devoured with +avidity. This was the sixth day since we had had a good meal, the +_tripe de roche_, even where we got enough, only serving to allay the +pangs of hunger for a short time. After supper two of the hunters went +in pursuit of the herd but could not get near them. I do not think that +we witnessed through the course of our journey a more striking proof of +the wise dispensation of the Almighty and of the weakness of our own +judgment than on this day. We had considered the dense fog which +prevailed throughout the morning as almost the greatest inconvenience +that could have befallen us, since it rendered the air extremely cold +and prevented us from distinguishing any distant object towards which +our course could be directed. Yet this very darkness enabled the party +to get to the top of the hill which bounded the valley wherein the +musk-oxen were grazing without being perceived. Had the herd discovered +us and taken alarm our hunters in their present state of debility would +in all probability have failed in approaching them. + +We were detained all the next day by a strong southerly wind and were +much incommoded in the tents by the drift snow. The temperature was +20°. The average for the last ten days about 24°. We restricted +ourselves to one meal this day as we were at rest and there was only +meat remaining sufficient for the morrow. + +The gale had not diminished on the 12th and, as we were fearful of its +continuance for some time, we determined on going forward; our only +doubt regarded the preservation of the canoe, but the men promised to +pay particular attention to it, and the most careful persons were +appointed to take it in charge. The snow was two feet deep and the +ground much broken, which rendered the march extremely painful. The +whole party complained more of faintness and weakness than they had +ever done before; their strength seemed to have been impaired by the +recent supply of animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated and the +snow ceased; cheered with the change we proceeded forward at a quicker +pace and encamped at six P.M. having come eleven miles. Our supper +consumed the last of our meat. + +We set out on the 13th in thick hazy weather and, after an hour’s +march, had the extreme mortification to find ourselves on the borders +of a large lake; neither of its extremities could be seen and, as the +portion which lay to the east seemed the widest, we coasted along to +the westward portion in search of a crossing-place. This lake being +bounded by steep and lofty hills our march was very fatiguing. Those +sides which were exposed to the sun were free from snow and we found +upon them some excellent berries. We encamped at six P.M. having come +only six miles and a half. Crédit was then missing and he did not +return during the night. We supped off a single partridge and some +_tripe de roche;_ this unpalatable weed was now quite nauseous to the +whole party and in several it produced bowel complaints. Mr. Hood was +the greatest sufferer from this cause. This evening we were extremely +distressed at discovering that our improvident companions since we left +Hood’s River had thrown away three of the fishing-nets and burnt the +floats; they knew we had brought them to procure subsistence for the +party when the animals should fail, and we could scarcely believe the +fact of their having wilfully deprived themselves of this resource, +especially when we considered that most of them had passed the greater +part of their servitude in situations where the nets alone had supplied +them with food. Being thus deprived of our principal resource, that of +fishing, and the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became +necessary to lighten their burdens of everything except ammunition, +clothing, and the instruments that were required to find our way. I +therefore issued directions to deposit at this encampment the dipping +needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a large thermometer, and a few books +we had carried, having torn out of these such parts as we should +require to work the observations for latitude and longitude. I also +promised, as an excitement to the efforts in hunting, my gun to St. +Germain, and an ample compensation to Adam or any of the other men who +should kill any animals. Mr. Hood on this occasion lent his gun to +Michel the Iroquois, who was very eager in the chase and often +successful. + +September 14. + +This morning, the officers being assembled round a small fire, Perrault +presented each of us with a small piece of meat which he had saved from +his allowance. It was received with great thankfulness, and such an act +of self-denial and kindness being totally unexpected in a Canadian +voyager filled our eyes with tears. In directing our course to a river +issuing from the lake we met Crédit who communicated the joyful +intelligence of his having killed two deer in the morning. We instantly +halted and, having shared the deer that was nearest to us, prepared +breakfast. After which the other deer was sent for and we went down to +the river, which was about three hundred yards wide and flowed with +great velocity through a broken rocky channel. Having searched for a +part where the current was most smooth, the canoe was placed in the +water at the head of a rapid, and St. Germain, Solomon Belanger, and I +embarked in order to cross. We went from the shore very well, but in +mid-channel the canoe became difficult to manage under our burden as +the breeze was fresh. The current drove us to the edge of the rapid, +when Belanger unluckily applied his paddle to avert the apparent danger +of being forced down it, and lost his balance. The canoe was overset in +consequence in the middle of the rapid. We fortunately kept hold of it +until we touched a rock where the water did not reach higher than our +waists; here we kept our footing, notwithstanding the strength of the +current, until the water was emptied out of the canoe. Belanger then +held the canoe steady whilst St. Germain placed me in it and afterwards +embarked himself in a very dexterous manner. It was impossible however +to embark Belanger, as the canoe would have been hurried down the rapid +the moment he should have raised his foot from the rock on which he +stood. We were therefore compelled to leave him in his perilous +situation. We had not gone twenty yards before the canoe, striking on a +sunken rock, went down. The place being shallow we were again enabled +to empty it and the third attempt brought us to the shore. In the +meantime Belanger was suffering extremely, immersed to his middle in +the centre of a rapid, the temperature of which was very little above +the freezing-point, and the upper part of his body covered with wet +clothes, exposed in a temperature not much above zero to a strong +breeze. He called piteously for relief and St. Germain on his return +endeavoured to embark him but in vain. The canoe was hurried down the +rapid and when he landed he was rendered by the cold incapable of +further exertion and Adam attempted to embark Belanger but found it +impossible. An attempt was next made to carry out to him a line made of +the slings of the men’s loads. This also failed, the current acting so +strongly upon it as to prevent the canoe from steering and it was +finally broken and carried down the stream. At length when Belanger’s +strength seemed almost exhausted the canoe reached him with a small +cord belonging to one of the nets and he was dragged perfectly +senseless through the rapid. By the direction of Dr. Richardson he was +instantly stripped and, being rolled up in blankets, two men undressed +themselves and went to bed with him: but it was some hours before he +recovered his warmth and sensations. As soon as Belanger was placed in +his bed the officers sent over my blankets and a person to make a fire. +Augustus brought the canoe over and in returning he was obliged to +descend both the rapids before he could get across the stream, which +hazardous service he performed with the greatest coolness and judgment. +It is impossible to describe my sensations as I witnessed the various +unsuccessful attempts to relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my +seeing distinctly what was going on and I continued pacing up and down +upon the rock on which I landed, regardless of the coldness of my +drenched and stiffening garments. The canoe in every attempt to reach +him was hurried down the rapid, and was lost to view amongst the rocky +islets with a rapidity that seemed to threaten certain destruction; +once indeed I fancied that I saw it overwhelmed in the waves. Such an +event would have been fatal to the whole party. Separated as I was from +my companions without gun, ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making +a fire, and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily sealed. My +companions too, driven to the necessity of coasting the lake, must have +sunk under the fatigue of rounding its innumerable arms and bays which +as we have learned from the Indians are very extensive. By the goodness +of Providence however we were spared at that time and some of us have +been permitted to offer up our thanksgivings in a civilised land for +the signal deliverances we then and afterwards experienced. + +By this accident I had the misfortune to lose my portfolio containing +my journal from Fort Enterprise together with all the astronomical and +meteorological observations made during the descent of the Copper-Mine +River and along the sea-coast (except those for the dip and variation). +I was in the habit of carrying it strapped across my shoulders but had +taken it off on entering the canoe to reduce the upper weight. The +results of most of the observations for latitude and longitude had been +registered in the sketch-books so that we preserved the requisites for +the construction of the chart. The meteorological observations not +having been copied were lost. My companions, Dr. Richardson, Mr. Back, +and Mr. Hood, had been so careful in noting every occurrence in their +journals that the loss of mine could fortunately be well supplied. +These friends immediately offered me their documents and every +assistance in drawing up another narrative, of which kindness I availed +myself at the earliest opportunity afterwards. + +September 15. + +The rest of the party were brought across this morning and we were +delighted to find Belanger so much recovered as to be able to proceed, +but we could not set out until noon as the men had to prepare +substitutes for the slings which were lost yesterday. Soon after +leaving the encampment we discerned a herd of deer and after a long +chase a fine male was killed by Perrault, several others were wounded +but they escaped. After this we passed round the north end of a branch +of the lake and ascended the Willingham Mountains, keeping near the +border of the lake. These hills were steep, craggy, and covered with +snow. We encamped at seven and enjoyed a substantial meal. The party +were in good spirits this evening at the recollection of having crossed +the rapid and being in possession of provision for the next day. +Besides we had taken the precaution of bringing away the skin of the +deer to eat when the meat should fail. The temperature at six P.M. was +30°. + +We started at seven next morning and marched until ten when the +appearance of a few willows peeping through the snow induced us to halt +and breakfast. Recommencing the journey at noon we passed over a more +rugged country where the hills were separated by deep ravines whose +steep sides were equally difficult to descend and to ascend, and the +toil and suffering we experienced were greatly increased. + +The party was quite fatigued when we encamped, having come ten miles +and three-quarters. We observed many summer deer roads and some recent +tracks. Some marks that had been put up by the Indians were also +noticed. We have since learned that this is a regular deer pass and, on +that account, annually frequented by the Copper Indians. The lake is +called by them Contwoyto or Rum Lake in consequence of Mr. Hearne +having here given the Indians who accompanied him some of that liquor. +Fish is not found here. + +We walked next day over a more level country but it was strewed with +large stones. These galled our feet a good deal; we contrived however +to wade through the snow at a tolerably quick pace until five P.M., +having proceeded twelve miles and a half. We had made today our proper +course south by east which we could not venture upon doing before for +fear of falling again upon some branch of the Contwoyto. Some deer were +seen in the morning but the hunters failed of killing any and in the +afternoon we fell into the track of a large herd which had passed the +day before but did not overtake them. In consequence of this want of +success we had no breakfast and but a scanty supper, but we allayed the +pangs of hunger by eating pieces of singed hide. A little _tripe de +roche_[33] was also obtained. These would have satisfied us in ordinary +times but we were now almost exhausted by slender fare and travel and +our appetites had become ravenous. We looked however with humble +confidence to the Great Author and Giver of all good for a continuance +of the support which had hitherto been always supplied to us at our +greatest need. The thermometer varied today between 25 and 28°. The +wind blew fresh from the south. + + [33] The different kinds of _gyrophora_ are termed indiscriminately by + the voyagers _tripe de roche_. + + +On the 18th the atmosphere was hazy but the day was more pleasant for +walking than usual. The country was level and gravelly and the snow +very deep. We went for a short time along a deeply-beaten road made by +the reindeer which turned suddenly off to the south-west, a direction +so wide of our course that we could not venture upon following it. All +the small lakes were frozen and we marched across those which lay in +our track. We supped off the _tripe de roche_ which had been gathered +during our halts in the course of the march. Thermometer at six P.M. +32°. + +Showers of snow fell without intermission through the night but they +ceased in the morning and we set out at the usual hour. The men were +very faint from hunger and marched with difficulty, having to oppose a +fresh breeze and to wade through snow two feet deep. We gained however +ten miles by four o’clock and then encamped. The canoe was +unfortunately broken by the fall of the person who had it in charge. No +_tripe de roche_ was seen today but in clearing the snow to pitch the +tents we found a quantity of Iceland moss which was boiled for supper. +This weed not having been soaked proved so bitter that few of the party +could eat more than a few spoonfuls. + +Our blankets did not suffice this evening to keep us in tolerable +warmth; the slightest breeze seeming to pierce our debilitated frames. +The reader will probably be desirous to know how we passed our time in +such a comfortless situation: the first operation after encamping was +to thaw our frozen shoes if a sufficient fire could be made, and dry +ones were put on; each person then wrote his notes of the daily +occurrences and evening prayers were read; as soon as supper was +prepared it was eaten, generally in the dark, and we went to bed and +kept up a cheerful conversation until our blankets were thawed by the +heat of our bodies and we had gathered sufficient warmth to enable us +to fall asleep. On many nights we had not even the luxury of going to +bed in dry clothes for when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes +we durst not venture to pull them off lest they should freeze so hard +as to be unfit to put on in the morning and therefore inconvenient to +carry. + +On the 20th we got into a hilly country and the marching became much +more laborious, even the stoutest experienced great difficulty in +climbing the craggy eminences. Mr. Hood was particularly weak and was +obliged to relinquish his station of second in the line which Dr. +Richardson now took to direct the leading man in keeping the appointed +course. I was also unable to keep pace with the men who put forth their +utmost speed, encouraged by the hope which our reckoning had led us to +form of seeing Point Lake in the evening, but we were obliged to encamp +without gaining a view of it. We had not seen either deer or their +tracks through the day, and this circumstance, joined to the +disappointment of not discovering the lake, rendered our voyagers very +desponding, and the meagre supper of _tripe de roche_ was little +calculated to elevate their spirits. They now threatened to throw away +their bundles and quit us, which rash act they would probably have +committed if they had known what track to pursue. + +September 21. + +We set out at seven this morning in dark foggy weather and changed our +course two points to the westward. The party were very feeble and the +men much dispirited; we made slow progress, having to march over a +hilly and very rugged country. + +Just before noon the sun beamed through the haze for the first time for +six days and we obtained an observation in latitude 65° 7′ 06″ North, +which was six miles to the southward of that part of Point Lake to the +way our course was directed. By this observation we discovered that we +had kept to the eastward of the proper course, which may be attributed +partly to the difficulty of preserving a straight line through an +unknown country, unassisted by celestial observations and in such thick +weather that our view was often limited to a few hundred yards, but +chiefly to our total ignorance of the amount of the variation of the +compass. + +We altered the course immediately to west-south-west and fired guns to +apprise the hunters who were out of our view and ignorant of our having +done so. After walking about two miles we waited to collect the +stragglers. Two partridges were killed and these with some _tripe de +roche_ furnished our supper. Notwithstanding a full explanation was +given to the men of the reasons for altering the course, and they were +assured that the observation had enabled us to discover our exact +distance from Fort Enterprise, they could not divest themselves of the +idea of our having lost our way, and a gloom was spread over every +countenance. At this encampment Dr. Richardson was obliged to deposit +his specimens of plants and minerals collected on the sea-coast, being +unable to carry them any farther. The way made today was five miles and +a quarter. + +September 22. + +After walking about two miles this morning we came upon the borders of +an extensive lake whose extremities could not be discerned in +consequence of the density of the atmosphere but, as its shores seemed +to approach nearer to each other to the southward than to the +northward, we determined on tracing it in that direction. We were +grieved at finding the lake expand very much beyond the contracted part +we had first seen and incline to the eastward of south. As however it +was considered more than probable, from the direction and size of the +body of water we were now tracing, that it was a branch of Point Lake, +and as in any case we knew that by passing round its south end we must +shortly come to the Copper-Mine River, our course was continued in that +direction. The appearance of some dwarf pines and willows, larger than +usual, induced us to suppose the river was near. We encamped early +having come eight miles. Our supper consisted of _tripe de roche_ and +half a partridge each. + +Our progress next day was extremely slow from the difficulty of +managing the canoe in passing over the hills as the breeze was fresh. +Peltier, who had it in charge, having received several severe falls, +became impatient and insisted on leaving his burden as it had already +been much injured by the accidents of this day, and no arguments we +could use were sufficient to prevail on him to continue carrying it. +Vaillant was therefore directed to take it and we proceeded forward. +Having found that he got on very well and was walking even faster than +Mr. Hood could follow in his present debilitated state, I pushed +forward to stop the rest of the party who had got out of sight during +the delay which the discussion respecting the canoe had occasioned. I +accidentally passed the body of the men and followed the tracks of two +persons who had separated from the rest until two P.M. when, not seeing +any person, I retraced my steps, and on my way met Dr. Richardson who +had also missed the party whilst he was employed gathering _tripe de +roche_, and we went back together in search of them. We found they had +halted among some willows where they had picked up some pieces of skin +and a few bones of deer that had been devoured by the wolves last +spring. They had rendered the bones friable by burning and eaten them +as well as the skin; and several of them had added their old shoes to +the repast. Peltier and Vaillant were with them, having left the canoe +which they said was so completely broken by another fall as to be +rendered incapable of repair and entirely useless. The anguish this +intelligence occasioned may be conceived but it is beyond my power to +describe it. Impressed however with the necessity of taking it forward, +even in the state these men represented it to be, we urgently desired +them to fetch it, but they declined going and the strength of the +officers was inadequate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy on +this occasion a great portion of the melancholy circumstances which +attended our subsequent progress may perhaps be attributed. The men now +seemed to have lost all hope of being preserved and all the arguments +we could use failed in stimulating them to the least exertion. After +consuming the remains of the bones and horns of the deer we resumed our +march, and in the evening reached a contracted part of the lake which, +perceiving it to be shallow, we forded and encamped on the opposite +side. Heavy rain began soon afterwards and continued all night. On the +following morning the rain had so wasted the snow that the tracks of +Mr. Back and his companions, who had gone before with the hunters, were +traced with difficulty, and the frequent showers during the day almost +obliterated them. The men became furious at the apprehension of being +deserted by the hunters and some of the strongest, throwing down their +bundles, prepared to set out after them, intending to leave the more +weak to follow as they could. The entreaties and threats of the +officers however prevented their executing this mad scheme, but not +before Solomon Belanger was despatched with orders for Mr. Back to halt +until we should join him. Soon afterwards a thick fog came on, but we +continued our march and overtook Mr. Back, who had been detained in +consequence of his companions having followed some recent tracks of +deer. After halting an hour, during which we refreshed ourselves with +eating our old shoes and a few scraps of leather, we set forward in the +hope of ascertaining whether an adjoining piece of water was the +Copper-Mine River or not, but were soon compelled to return and encamp +for fear of a separation of the party, as we could not see each other +at ten yards’ distance. The fog diminishing towards evening, Augustus +was sent to examine the water but, having lost his way, he did not +reach the tents before midnight when he brought the information of its +being a lake. We supped upon _tripe de roche_ and enjoyed a comfortable +fire, having found some pines seven or eight feet high in a valley near +the encampment. + +The bounty of Providence was most seasonably manifested to us next +morning in our killing five small deer out of a herd which came in +sight as we were on the point of starting. This unexpected supply +reanimated the drooping spirits of our men and filled every heart with +gratitude. + +The voyagers instantly petitioned for a day’s rest which we were most +reluctant to grant, being aware of the importance of every moment at +this critical period of our journey. But they so earnestly and strongly +pleaded their recent sufferings and their conviction that the quiet +enjoyment of two substantial meals after eight days’ famine would +enable them to proceed next day more vigorously, that we could not +resist their entreaties. The flesh, the skins, and even the contents of +the stomachs of the deer were equally distributed among the party by +Mr. Hood who had volunteered, on the departure of Mr. Wentzel, to +perform the duty of issuing the provision. This invidious task he had +all along performed with great impartiality, but seldom without +producing some grumbling amongst the Canadians, and on the present +occasion the hunters were displeased that the heads and some other +parts had not been added to their portions. It is proper to remark that +Mr. Hood always took the smallest portion for his own mess, but this +weighed little with these men as long as their own appetites remained +unsatisfied. We all suffered much inconvenience from eating animal food +after our long abstinence, but particularly those men who indulged +themselves beyond moderation. The Canadians, with their usual +thoughtlessness, had consumed above a third of their portions of meat +that evening. + +We set out early on the 26th and, after walking about three miles along +the lake, came to the river which we at once recognised from its size +to be the Copper-Mine. It flowed to the northward and, after winding +about five miles terminated in Point Lake. Its current was swift, and +there were two rapids in this part of its course which in a canoe we +could have crossed with ease and safety. These rapids, as well as every +other part of the river, were carefully examined in search of a ford +but, finding none, the expedients occurred of attempting to cross on a +raft made of the willows which were growing there, or in a vessel +framed with willows and covered with the canvas of the tents, but both +these schemes were abandoned through the obstinacy of the interpreters +and the most experienced voyagers, who declared that they would prove +inadequate to the conveyance of the party and that much time would be +lost in the attempt. The men in fact did not believe that this was the +Copper-Mine River and, so little confidence had they in our reckoning, +and so much had they bewildered themselves on the march, that some of +them asserted it was Hood’s River and others that it was the +Bethetessy. (A river which rises from a lake to the northward of Rum +Lake and holds a course to the sea parallel with that of the +Copper-Mine.) In short their despondency had returned, and they all +despaired of seeing Fort Enterprise again. However the steady +assurances of the officers that we were actually on the banks of the +Copper-Mine River, and that the distance to Fort Enterprise did not +exceed forty miles, made some impression upon them, which was increased +upon our finding some bear-berry plants (_Arbutus uva ursi_), which are +reported by the Indians not to grow to the eastward of that river. They +then deplored their folly and impatience in breaking the canoe, being +all of opinion that had it not been so completely demolished on the +23rd it might have been repaired sufficiently to take the party over. +We again closely interrogated Peltier and Vaillant as to its state, +with the intention of sending for it; but they persisted in the +declaration that it was in a totally unserviceable condition. St. +Germain, being again called upon to endeavour to construct a canoe +frame with willows, stated that he was unable to make one sufficiently +large. It became necessary therefore to search for pines of sufficient +size to form a raft and, being aware that such trees grow on the +borders of Point Lake, we considered it best to trace its shores in +search of them; we therefore resumed our march, carefully looking but +in vain for a fordable part, and encamped at the east end of Point +Lake. + +As there was little danger of our losing the path of our hunters whilst +we coasted the shores of this lake I determined on again sending Mr. +Back forward with the interpreters to hunt. I had in view in this +arrangement the further object of enabling Mr. Back to get across the +lake with two of these men to convey the earliest possible account of +our situation to the Indians. Accordingly I instructed him to halt at +the first pines he should come to and then prepare a raft and, if his +hunters had killed animals so that the party could be supported whilst +we were making our raft, he was to cross immediately with St. Germain +and Beauparlant and send the Indians to us as quickly as possible with +supplies of meat. + +We had this evening the pain of discovering that two of our men had +stolen part of the officers’ provision which had been allotted to us +with strict impartiality. This conduct was the more reprehensible as it +was plain that we were suffering even in a greater degree than +themselves from the effects of famine, owing to our being of a less +robust habit and less accustomed to privations. We had no means of +punishing this crime but by the threat that they should forfeit their +wages, which had now ceased to operate. + +Mr. Back and his companions set out at six in the morning and we +started at seven. As the snow had entirely disappeared and there were +no means of distinguishing the footsteps of stragglers, I gave strict +orders previously to setting out for all the party to keep together, +and especially I desired the two Esquimaux not to leave us, they having +often strayed in search of the remains of animals. Our people however, +through despondency, had become careless and disobedient and had ceased +to dread punishment or hope for reward. Much time was lost in halting +and firing guns to collect them, but the labour of walking was so much +lightened by the disappearance of the snow that we advanced seven or +eight miles along the lake before noon, exclusive of the loss of +distance in rounding its numerous bays. At length we came to an arm +running away to the north-east and apparently connected with the lake +which we had coasted on the 22nd, 23rd and 24th of the month. + +The idea of again rounding such an extensive piece of water and of +travelling over so barren a country was dreadful, and we feared that +other arms equally large might obstruct our path, and that the strength +of the party would entirely fail long before we could reach the only +part where we were certain of finding wood, distant in a direct line +twenty-five miles. While we halted to consider of this subject and to +collect the party, the carcass of a deer was discovered in the cleft of +a rock into which it had fallen in the spring. It was putrid but little +less acceptable to us on that account in our present circumstances and, +a fire being kindled, a large portion was devoured on the spot, +affording us an unexpected breakfast for, in order to husband our small +remaining portion of meat we had agreed to make only one scanty meal a +day. The men, cheered by this unlooked-for supply, became sanguine in +the hope of being able to cross the stream on a raft of willows, +although they had before declared such a project impracticable, and +they unanimously entreated us to return back to the rapid, a request +which accorded with our own opinion and was therefore acceded to. +Crédit and Junius however were missing, and it was also necessary to +send notice of our intention to Mr. Back and his party. Augustus, being +promised a reward, undertook the task and we agreed to wait for him at +the rapid. It was supposed he could not fail meeting with the two +stragglers on his way to or from Mr. Back, as it was likely they would +keep on the borders of the lake. He accordingly set out after Mr. Back +whilst we returned about a mile towards the rapid and encamped in a +deep valley amongst some large willows. We supped on the remains of the +putrid deer and the men, having gone to the spot where it was found, +scraped together the contents of its intestines which were scattered on +the rock and added them to their meal. We also enjoyed the luxury today +of eating a large quantity of excellent blueberries and cranberries +(_Vaccinium uliginosum_ and _V. vitis idæa_) which were laid bare by +the melting of the snow, but nothing could allay our inordinate +appetites. + +In the night we heard the report of Crédit’s gun in answer to our +signal muskets, and he rejoined us in the morning, but we got no +intelligence of Junius. We set out about an hour after daybreak, and +encamped at two P.M. between the rapids where the river was about one +hundred and thirty yards wide, being its narrowest part. + +DIFFICULTY AND DELAY IN CROSSING COPPER-MINE RIVER. + + +Eight deer were seen by Michel and Crédit who loitered behind the rest +of the party, but they could not approach them. A great many shots were +fired by those in the rear at partridges but they missed, or at least +did not choose to add what they killed to the common stock. We +subsequently learned that the hunters often secreted the partridges +they shot and ate them unknown to the officers. Some _tripe de roche_ +was collected which we boiled for supper with the moiety of the +remainder of our deer’s meat. The men commenced cutting the willows for +the construction of the raft. As an incitement to exertion I promised a +reward of three hundred livres to the first person who should convey a +line across the river by which the raft could be managed in +transporting the party. + +MELANCHOLY AND FATAL RESULTS THEREOF. + + +September 29. + +Strong south-east winds with fog in the morning, more moderate in the +evening. Temperature of the rapid 38°. The men began at an early hour +to bind the willows in fagots for the construction of the raft, and it +was finished by seven but, as the willows were green, it proved to be +very little buoyant, and was unable to support more than one man at a +time. Even on this however we hoped the whole party might be +transported by hauling it from one side to the other, provided a line +could be carried to the other bank. Several attempts were made by +Belanger and Benoit, the strongest men of the party, to convey the raft +across the stream, but they failed for want of oars. A pole constructed +by tying the tent poles together was too short to reach the bottom at a +short distance from the shore, and a paddle which had been carried from +the sea-coast by Dr. Richardson did not possess sufficient power to +move the raft in opposition to a strong breeze which blew from the +other side. All the men suffered extremely from the coldness of the +water in which they were necessarily immersed up to the waists in their +endeavours to aid Belanger and Benoit and, having witnessed repeated +failures, they began to consider the scheme as hopeless. At this time +Dr. Richardson, prompted by a desire of relieving his suffering +companions, proposed to swim across the stream with a line and to haul +the raft over. He launched into the stream with the line round his +middle but when he had got a short distance from the bank his arms +became benumbed with cold and he lost the power of moving them; still +he persevered and, turning on his back, had nearly gained the opposite +bank when his legs also became powerless and, to our infinite alarm, we +beheld him sink. We instantly hauled upon the line and he came again on +the surface and was gradually drawn ashore in an almost lifeless state. +Being rolled up in blankets he was placed before a good fire of willows +and fortunately was just able to speak sufficiently to give some slight +directions respecting the manner of treating him. He recovered strength +gradually and through the blessing of God was enabled in the course of +a few hours to converse and by the evening was sufficiently recovered +to remove into the tent. We then regretted to learn that the skin of +his whole left side was deprived of feeling in consequence of exposure +to too great heat. He did not perfectly recover the sensation of that +side until the following summer. I cannot describe what everyone felt +at beholding the skeleton which the Doctor’s debilitated frame +exhibited. When he stripped the Canadians simultaneously exclaimed “Ah! +que nous sommes maigres!” I shall best explain his state and that of +the party by the following extract from his journal: “It may be worthy +of remark that I should have had little hesitation in any former period +of my life at plunging into water even below 38° Fahrenheit, but at +this time I was reduced almost to skin and bone and, like the rest of +the party, suffered from degrees of cold that would have been +disregarded in health and vigour. During the whole of our march we +experienced that no quantity of clothing would keep us warm whilst we +fasted, but on those occasions on which we were enabled to go to bed +with full stomachs we passed the night in a warm and comfortable +manner.” + +In following the detail of our friend’s narrow escape I have omitted to +mention that when he was about to step into the water he put his foot +on a dagger which cut him to the bone, but this misfortune could not +stop him from attempting the execution of his generous undertaking. + +In the evening Augustus came in. He had walked a day and a half beyond +the place from whence we turned back but had neither seen Junius nor +Mr. Back. Of the former he had seen no traces but he had followed the +tracks of Mr. Back’s party for a considerable distance until the +hardness of the ground rendered them imperceptible. Junius was well +equipped with ammunition, blankets, knives, a kettle, and other +necessaries; and it was the opinion of Augustus that when he found he +could not rejoin the party he would endeavour to gain the woods on the +west end of Point Lake and follow the river until he fell in with the +Esquimaux who frequent its mouth. The Indians too with whom we have +since conversed upon this subject are confident that he would be able +to subsist himself during the winter. Crédit on his hunting excursion +today found a cap which our people recognised to belong to one of the +hunters who had left us in the spring. This circumstance produced the +conviction of our being on the banks of the Copper-Mine River which all +the assertions of the officers had hitherto failed in effecting with +some of the party, and it had the happy consequence of reviving their +spirits considerably. We consumed the last of our deer’s meat this +evening at supper. + +Next morning the men went out in search of dry willows and collected +eight large fagots with which they formed a more buoyant raft than the +former but, the wind being still adverse and strong, they delayed +attempting to cross until a more favourable opportunity. Pleased +however with the appearance of this raft they collected some _tripe de +roche_ and made a cheerful supper. Dr. Richardson was gaining strength +but his leg was much swelled and very painful. An observation for +latitude placed the encampment in 65° 00′ 00″ North, the longitude +being 112° 20′ 00″ West, deduced from the last observation. + +On the morning of the 1st of October the wind was strong and the +weather as unfavourable as before for crossing on the raft. We were +rejoiced to see Mr. Back and his party in the afternoon. They had +traced the lake about fifteen miles farther than we did and found it +undoubtedly connected, as we had supposed, with the lake we fell in +with on the 22nd of September and, dreading as we had done, the idea of +coasting its barren shores, they returned to make an attempt at +crossing here. St. Germain now proposed to make a canoe of the +fragments of painted canvas in which we wrapped our bedding. This +scheme appearing practicable, a party was sent to our encampment of the +24th and 25th last to collect pitch amongst the small pines that grew +there to pay over the seams of the canoe. + +In the afternoon we had a heavy fall of snow which continued all night. +A small quantity of _tripe de roche_ was gathered; and Crédit, who had +been hunting, brought in the antlers and back bone of a deer which had +been killed in the summer. The wolves and birds of prey had picked them +clean but there still remained a quantity of the spinal marrow which +they had not been able to extract. This, although putrid, was esteemed +a valuable prize and the spine being divided into portions was +distributed equally. After eating the marrow, which was so acrid as to +excoriate the lips, we rendered the bones friable by burning and ate +them also. + +On the following morning the ground was covered with snow to the depth +of a foot and a half and the weather was very stormy. These +circumstances rendered the men again extremely despondent; a settled +gloom hung over their countenances and they refused to pick _tripe de +roche_, choosing rather to go entirely without eating than to make any +exertion. The party which went for gum returned early in the morning +without having found any, but St. Germain said he could still make the +canoe with the willows covered with canvas, and removed with Adam to a +clump of willows for that purpose. Mr. Back accompanied them to +stimulate his exertion as we feared the lowness of his spirits would +cause him to be slow in his operations. Augustus went to fish at the +rapid but, a large trout having carried away his bait, we had nothing +to replace it. + +The snow-storm continued all the night and during the forenoon of the +3rd. Having persuaded the people to gather some _tripe de roche_, I +partook of a meal with them and afterwards set out with the intention +of going to St. Germain to hasten his operations, but though he was +only three-quarters of a mile distant I spent three hours in a vain +attempt to reach him, my strength being unequal to the labour of wading +through the deep snow, and I returned quite exhausted and much shaken +by the numerous falls I had got. My associates were all in the same +debilitated state and poor Hood was reduced to a perfect shadow from +the severe bowel complaints which the _tripe de roche_ never failed to +give him. Back was so feeble as to require the support of a stick in +walking, and Dr. Richardson had lameness superadded to weakness. The +voyagers were somewhat stronger than ourselves but more indisposed to +exertion on account of their despondency. The sensation of hunger was +no longer felt by any of us, yet we were scarcely able to converse upon +any other subject than the pleasures of eating. We were much indebted +to Hepburn at this crisis. The officers were unable from weakness to +gather _tripe de roche_ themselves and Samandré, who had acted as our +cook on the journey from the coast, sharing in the despair of the rest +of the Canadians, refused to make the slightest exertion. Hepburn on +the contrary, animated by a firm reliance on the beneficence of the +Supreme Being, tempered with resignation to His will, was indefatigable +in his exertions to serve us and daily collected all the _tripe de +roche_ that was used in the officers’ mess. Mr. Hood could not partake +of this miserable fare, and a partridge which had been reserved for him +was I lament to say this day stolen by one of the men. + +October 4. + +The canoe being finished it was brought to the encampment and, the +whole party being assembled in anxious expectation on the beach, St. +Germain embarked and, amidst our prayers for his success, succeeded in +reaching the opposite shore. The canoe was then drawn back again and +another person transported, and in this manner, by drawing it backwards +and forwards, we were all conveyed over without any serious accident. +By these frequent traverses the canoe was materially injured, and +latterly it filled each time with water before reaching the shore, so +that all our garments and bedding were wet and there was not a +sufficiency of willows upon the side on which we now were to make a +fire to dry them. + +That no time might be lost in procuring relief I immediately despatched +Mr. Back with St. Germain, Solomon Belanger, and Beauparlant to search +for the Indians, directing him to go to Fort Enterprise where we +expected they would be or where at least a note from Mr. Wentzel would +be found to direct us in our search for them. If St. Germain should +kill any animals on his way a portion of the meat was to be put up +securely for us and conspicuous marks placed over it. + +It is impossible to imagine a more gratifying change than was produced +in our voyagers after we were all safely landed on the southern banks +of the river. Their spirits immediately revived, each of them shook the +officers cordially by the hand and declared they now considered the +worst of their difficulties over as they did not doubt of reaching Fort +Enterprise in a few days, even in their feeble condition. We had indeed +every reason to be grateful and our joy would have been complete had it +not been mingled with sincere regret at the separation of our poor +Esquimaux, the faithful Junius. + +EXTREME MISERY OF THE WHOLE PARTY. + + +The want of _tripe de roche_ caused us to go supperless to bed. Showers +of snow fell frequently during the night. The breeze was light next +morning, the weather cold and clear. We were all on foot by daybreak +but, from the frozen state of our tents and bedclothes, it was long +before the bundles could be made and as usual the men lingered over a +small fire they had kindled so that it was eight o’clock before we +started. Our advance from the depth of the snow was slow, and about +noon, coming to a spot where there was some _tripe de roche_, we +stopped to collect it and breakfasted. Mr. Hood, who was now very +feeble, and Dr. Richardson, who attached himself to him, walked +together at a gentle pace in the rear of the party. I kept with the +foremost men to cause them to halt occasionally until the stragglers +came up. Resuming our march after breakfast we followed the track of +Mr. Back’s party and encamped early as all of us were much fatigued, +particularly Crédit who, having today carried the men’s tent, it being +his turn so to do, was so exhausted that when he reached the encampment +he was unable to stand. The _tripe de roche_ disagreed with this man +and with Vaillant in consequence of which they were the first whose +strength totally failed. We had a small quantity of this weed in the +evening and the rest of our supper was made up of scraps of roasted +leather. The distance walked today was six miles. As Crédit was very +weak in the morning his load was reduced to little more than his +personal luggage, consisting of his blanket, shoes and gun. Previous to +setting out the whole party ate the remains of their old shoes and +whatever scraps of leather they had to strengthen their stomachs for +the fatigue of the day’s journey. We left the encampment at nine and +pursued our route over a range of black hills. The wind, having +increased to a strong gale in the course of the morning, became +piercingly cold and the drift rendered it difficult for those in the +rear to follow the track over the heights, whilst in the valleys where +it was sufficiently marked from the depth of the snow the labour of +walking was proportionably great. Those in advance made as usual +frequent halts, yet being unable from the severity of the weather to +remain long still they were obliged to move on before the rear could +come up and the party of course straggled very much. + +About noon, Samandré coming up, informed us that Crédit and Vaillant +could advance no farther. Some willows being discovered in a valley +near us I proposed to halt the party there whilst Dr. Richardson went +back to visit them. I hoped too that when the sufferers received the +information of a fire being kindled at so short a distance they would +be cheered, and use their utmost efforts to reach it, but this proved a +vain hope. The Doctor found Vaillant about a mile and a half in the +rear, much exhausted with cold and fatigue. Having encouraged him to +advance to the fire, after repeated solicitations he made the attempt, +but fell down amongst the deep snow at every step. Leaving him in this +situation the Doctor went about half a mile farther back to the spot +where Crédit was said to have halted and, the track being nearly +obliterated by the snowdrift, it became unsafe for him to go farther. +Returning he passed Vaillant who, having moved only a few yards in his +absence, had fallen down, was unable to rise, and could scarcely answer +his questions. Being unable to afford him any effectual assistance he +hastened on to inform us of his situation. When J.B. Belanger had heard +the melancholy account he went immediately to aid Vaillant and bring up +his burden. Respecting Crédit we were informed by Samandré that he had +stopped a short distance behind Vaillant, but that his intention was to +return to the encampment of the preceding evening. + +When Belanger came back with Vaillant’s load he informed us that he had +found him lying on his back, benumbed with cold and incapable of being +roused. The stoutest men of the party were now earnestly entreated to +bring him to the fire, but they declared themselves unequal to the +task, and on the contrary urged me to allow them to throw down their +loads and proceed to Fort Enterprise with the utmost speed. A +compliance with their desire would have caused the loss of the whole +party, for the men were totally ignorant of the course to be pursued, +and none of the officers who could have directed the march were +sufficiently strong to keep up at the pace they would then walk, +besides, even supposing them to have found their way, the strongest men +would certainly have deserted the weak. Something however was +absolutely necessary to be done to relieve them as much as possible +from their burdens, and the officers consulted on the subject. Mr. Hood +and Dr. Richardson proposed to remain behind with a single attendant at +the first place where sufficient wood and _tripe de roche_ should be +found for ten days’ consumption, and that I should proceed as +expeditiously as possible with the men to the house and thence send +them immediate relief. They strongly urged that this arrangement would +contribute to the safety of the rest of the party by relieving them +from the burden of a tent and several other articles, and that they +might afford aid to Crédit if he should unexpectedly come up. I was +distressed beyond description at the thought of leaving them in such a +dangerous situation and for a long time combated their proposal, but +they strenuously urged that this step afforded the only chance of +safety for the party and I reluctantly acceded to it. The ammunition, +of which we had a small barrel, was also to be left with them, and it +was hoped that this deposit would be a strong inducement for the +Indians to venture across the barren grounds to their aid. We +communicated this resolution to the men who were cheered at the +slightest prospect of alleviation to their present miseries and +promised with great appearance of earnestness to return to those +officers upon the first supply of food. + +The party then moved on; Vaillant’s blanket and other necessaries were +left in the track at the request of the Canadians, without any hope +however of his being able to reach them. After marching till dusk +without seeing a favourable place for encamping, night compelled us to +take shelter under the lee of a hill amongst some willows, with which, +after many attempts, we at length made a fire. It was not sufficient +however to warm the whole party, much less to thaw our shoes, and the +weather not permitting the gathering of _tripe de roche_ we had nothing +to cook. The painful retrospection of the melancholy events of the day +banished sleep, and we shuddered as we contemplated the dreadful +effects of this bitterly cold night on our two companions, if still +living. Some faint hopes were entertained of Crédit’s surviving the +storm as he was provided with a good blanket and had leather to eat. + +The weather was mild next morning. We left the encampment at nine and +at a little before noon came to a pretty extensive thicket of small +willows near which there appeared a supply of _tripe de roche_ on the +face of the rocks. At this place Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood determined +to remain with John Hepburn who volunteered to stop with them. The tent +was securely pitched, a few willows collected, and the ammunition and +all other articles were deposited, except each man’s clothing, one +tent, a sufficiency of ammunition for the journey, and the officers’ +journals. I had only one blanket which was carried for me and two pair +of shoes. The offer was now made for any of the men who felt themselves +too weak to proceed to remain with the officers but none of them +accepted it. Michel alone felt some inclination to do so. After we had +united in thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty God I separated from my +companions, deeply afflicted that a train of melancholy circumstances +should have demanded of me the severe trial of parting in such a +condition from friends who had become endeared to me by their constant +kindness and cooperation, and a participation of numerous sufferings. +This trial I could not have been induced to undergo but for the reasons +they had so strongly urged the day before, to which my own judgment +assented and for the sanguine hope I felt of either finding a supply of +provision at Fort Enterprise or meeting the Indians in the immediate +vicinity of that place, according to my arrangements with Mr. Wentzel +and Akaitcho. Previously to our starting Peltier and Benoit repeated +their promises to return to them with provision if any should be found +at the house or to guide the Indians to them if any were met. + +Greatly as Mr. Hood was exhausted, and indeed incapable as he must have +proved of encountering the fatigue of our very next day’s journey, so +that I felt his resolution to be prudent, I was sensible that his +determination to remain was chiefly prompted by the disinterested and +generous wish to remove impediments to the progress of the rest. Dr. +Richardson and Hepburn, who were both in a state of strength to keep +pace with the men besides, this motive which they shared with him, were +influenced in their resolution to remain, the former by the desire +which had distinguished his character throughout the Expedition of +devoting himself to the succour of the weak, and the latter by the +zealous attachment he had ever shown towards his officers. + +We set out without waiting to take any of the _tripe de roche_ and, +walking at a tolerable pace, in an hour arrived at a fine group of +pines about a mile and a quarter from the tent. We sincerely regretted +not having seen these before we separated from our companions as they +would have been better supplied with fuel here and there appeared to be +more _tripe de roche_ than where we had left them. + +Descending afterwards into a more level country we found the snow very +deep and the labour of wading through it so fatigued the whole party +that we were compelled to encamp after a march of four miles and a +half. Belanger and Michel were left far behind and when they arrived at +the encampment appeared quite exhausted. The former, bursting into +tears, declared his inability to proceed and begged me to let him go +back next morning to the tent and shortly afterwards Michel made the +same request. I was in hopes they might recover a little strength by +the night’s rest and therefore deferred giving any permission UNTIL +morning. The sudden failure in the strength of these men cast a gloom +over the rest, which I tried in vain to remove by repeated assurances +that the distance to Fort Enterprise was short and that we should in +all probability reach it in four days. Not being able to find any +_tripe de roche_ we drank an infusion of the Labrador tea plant (_Ledum +palustre_), and ate a few morsels of burnt leather for supper. We were +unable to raise the tent and found its weight too great to carry it on; +we therefore cut it up and took a part of the canvas for a cover. The +night was bitterly cold and though we lay as close to each other as +possible, having no shelter, we could not keep ourselves sufficiently +warm to sleep. A strong gale came on after midnight which increased the +severity of the weather. In the morning Belanger and Michel renewed +their request to be permitted to go back to the tent, assuring me they +were still weaker than on the preceding evening and less capable of +going forward, and they urged that the stopping at a place where there +was a supply of _tripe de roche_ was their only chance of preserving +life; under these circumstances I could not do otherwise than yield to +their desire. I wrote a note to Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood informing +them of the pines we had passed and recommending their removing +thither. Having found that Michel was carrying a considerable quantity +of ammunition I desired him to divide it among my party, leaving him +only ten balls and a little shot to kill any animals he might meet on +his way to the tent. This man was very particular in his inquiries +respecting the direction of the house and the course we meant to +pursue; he also said that if he should be able he would go and search +for Vaillant and Crédit; and he requested my permission to take +Vaillant’s blanket if he should find it, to which I agreed and +mentioned it in my notes to the officers. + +Scarcely were these arrangements finished before Perrault and Fontano +were seized with a fit of dizziness and betrayed other symptoms of +extreme debility. Some tea was quickly prepared for them and after +drinking it and eating a few morsels of burnt leather they recovered +and expressed their desire to go forward, but the other men, alarmed at +what they had just witnessed, became doubtful of their own strength +and, giving way to absolute dejection, declared their inability to +move. I now earnestly pressed upon them the necessity of continuing our +journey as the only means of saving their own lives as well as those of +our friends at the tent, and after much entreaty got them to set out at +ten A.M. Belanger and Michel were left at the encampment and proposed +to start shortly afterwards. By the time we had gone about two hundred +yards Perrault became again dizzy and desired us to halt which we did +until he, recovering, offered to march on. Ten minutes more had hardly +elapsed before he again desired us to stop and, bursting into tears, +declared he was totally exhausted and unable to accompany us farther. +As the encampment was not more than a quarter of a mile distant we +recommended that he should return to it and rejoin Belanger and Michel +whom we knew to be still there from perceiving the smoke of a fresh +fire, and because they had not made any preparation for starting when +we quitted them. He readily acquiesced in the proposition and, having +taken a friendly leave of each of us, and enjoined us to make all the +haste we could in sending relief, he turned back, keeping his gun and +ammunition. We watched him until he was nearly at the fire and then +proceeded. During these detentions Augustus becoming impatient of the +delay had walked on and we lost sight of him. The labour we experienced +in wading through the deep snow induced us to cross a moderate-sized +lake which lay in our track, but we found this operation far more +harassing. As the surface of the ice was perfectly smooth we slipped at +almost every step and were frequently blown down by the wind with such +force as to shake our whole frames. + +Poor Fontano was completely exhausted by the labour of this traverse +and we made a halt until his strength was recruited, by which time the +party was benumbed with cold. Proceeding again he got on tolerably well +for a little time but, being again seized with faintness and dizziness, +he fell often and at length exclaimed that he could go no farther. We +immediately stopped and endeavoured to encourage him to persevere until +we should find some willows to encamp; he insisted however that he +could not march any longer through this deep snow, and said that, if he +should even reach our encampment this evening, he must be left there, +provided _tripe de roche_ could not be procured to recruit his +strength. The poor man was overwhelmed with grief and seemed desirous +to remain at that spot. We were about two miles from the place where +the other men had been left and, as the track to it was beaten, we +proposed to him to return thither as we thought it probable he would +find the men still there; at any rate he would be able to get fuel to +keep him warm during the night, and on the next day he could follow +their track to the officers’ tent and, should the path be covered by +the snow, the pines we had passed yesterday would guide him as they +were yet in view. + +I cannot describe my anguish on the occasion of separating from another +companion under circumstances so distressing. There was however no +alternative. The extreme debility of the rest of the party put the +carrying him quite out of the question, as he himself admitted, and it +was evident that the frequent delays he must occasion if he accompanied +us and did not gain strength would endanger the lives of the whole. By +returning he had the prospect of getting to the tent where _tripe de +roche_ could be obtained, which agreed with him better than with any +other of the party, and which he was always very assiduous in +gathering. After some hesitation he determined on going back and set +out, having bid each of us farewell in the tenderest manner. We watched +him with inexpressible anxiety for some time, and were rejoiced to +find, though he got on slowly, that he kept on his legs better than +before. Antonio Fontano was an Italian and had served for many years in +De Meuron’s regiment. He had spoken to me that very morning and after +his first attack of dizziness about his father, and had begged that, +should he survive, I would take him with me to England and put him in +the way of reaching home. + +The party was now reduced to five persons, Adam, Peltier, Benoit, +Samandré and myself. Continuing the journey we came after an hour’s +walk to some willows and encamped under the shelter of a rock, having +walked in the whole four miles and a half. We made an attempt to gather +some _tripe de roche_ but could not, owing to the severity of the +weather. Our supper therefore consisted of tea and a few morsels of +leather. + +Augustus did not make his appearance but we felt no alarm at his +absence, supposing he would go to the tent if he missed our track. +Having fire we procured a little sleep. Next morning the breeze was +light and the weather mild which enabled us to collect some _tripe de +roche_, and to enjoy the only meal we had had for four days. We derived +great benefit from it and walked with considerably more ease than +yesterday. Without the strength it supplied we should certainly have +been unable to oppose the strong breeze we met in the afternoon. After +walking about five miles we came upon the borders of Marten Lake and +were rejoiced to find it frozen so that we could continue our course +straight for Fort Enterprise. We encamped at the first rapid in Winter +River amidst willows and alders, but these were so frozen and the snow +fell so thick that the men had great difficulty in making a fire. This +proving insufficient to warm us or even thaw our shoes, and having no +food to prepare, we crept under our blankets. The arrival in a +well-known part raised the spirits of the men to a high pitch, and we +kept up a cheerful conversation until sleep overpowered us. The night +was very stormy and the morning scarcely less so but, being desirous to +reach the house this day, we commenced our journey very early. We were +gratified by the sight of a large herd of reindeer on the side of the +hill near the track, but our only hunter Adam was too feeble to pursue +them. Our shoes and garments were stiffened by the frost and we walked +in great pain until we arrived at some stunted pines, at which we +halted, made a good fire, and procured the refreshment of tea. The +weather becoming fine in the afternoon we continued our journey, passed +the Dog-Rib Rock, and encamped among a clump of pines of considerable +growth about a mile farther on. Here we enjoyed the comfort of a large +fire for the first time since our departure from the sea-coast, but +this gratification was purchased at the expense of many severe falls in +crossing a stony valley to get to these trees. There was no _tripe de +roche_, and we drank tea and ate some of our shoes for supper. Next +morning after taking the usual repast of tea we proceeded to the house. +Musing on what we were likely to find there our minds were agitated +between hope and fear and, contrary to the custom we had kept up of +supporting our spirits by conversation, we went silently forward. + +DESOLATE STATE OF FORT ENTERPRISE. + + +At length we reached Fort Enterprise and to our infinite disappointment +and grief found it a perfectly desolate habitation. There was no +deposit of provision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from Mr. +Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be found. It would be +impossible to describe our sensations after entering this miserable +abode and discovering how we had been neglected; the whole party shed +tears, not so much for our own fate as for that of our friends in the +rear, whose lives depended entirely on our sending immediate relief +from this place. + +I found a note however from Mr. Back, stating that he had reached the +house two days before and was going in search of the Indians at a part +where St. Germain deemed it probable they might be found. If he was +unsuccessful he purposed walking to Fort Providence and sending succour +from thence, but he doubted whether either he or his party could +perform the journey to that place in their present debilitated state. +It was evident that any supply that could be sent from Fort Providence +would be long in reaching us, neither could it be sufficient to enable +us to afford any assistance to our companions behind, and that the only +relief for them must be procured from the Indians. I resolved therefore +on going also in search of them, but my companions were absolutely +incapable of proceeding and I thought by halting two or three days they +might gather a little strength whilst the delay would afford us the +chance of learning whether Mr. Back had seen the Indians. + +DISTRESS SUFFERED AT THAT PLACE. + + +We now looked round for the means of subsistence and were gratified to +find several deer-skins which had been thrown away during our former +residence. The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes; these with +the skins and the addition of _tripe de roche_, we considered would +support us tolerably well for a time. As to the house, the parchment +being torn from the windows, the apartment we selected for our abode +was exposed to all the rigour of the season. We endeavoured to exclude +the wind as much as possible by placing loose boards against the +apertures. The temperature was now between 15 and 20° below zero. We +procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the other rooms, and water +for cooking by melting the snow. Whilst we were seated round the fire, +singeing the deer-skin for supper, we were rejoiced by the unexpected +entrance of Augustus. He had followed quite a different course from +ours and the circumstance of his having found his way through a part of +the country he had never been in before must be considered a remarkable +proof of sagacity. The unusual earliness of this winter became manifest +to us from the state of things at this spot. Last year at the same +season and still later there had been very little snow on the ground +and we were surrounded by vast herds of reindeer; now there were but +few recent tracks of these animals and the snow was upwards of two feet +deep. Winter River was then open, now it was frozen two feet thick. + +When I arose the following morning my body and limbs were so swollen +that I was unable to walk more than a few yards. Adam was in a still +worse condition, being absolutely incapable of rising without +assistance. My other companions happily experienced this inconvenience +in a less degree and went to collect bones and some _tripe de roche_ +which supplied us with two meals. The bones were quite acrid and the +soup extracted from them excoriated the mouth if taken alone, but it +was somewhat milder when boiled with _tripe de roche_, and we even +thought the mixture palatable with the addition of salt, of which a +cask had been fortunately left here in the spring. Augustus today set +two fishing-lines below the rapid. On his way thither he saw two deer +but had not strength to follow them. + +On the 13th the wind blew violently from south-east and the snow +drifted so much that the party were confined to the house. In the +afternoon of the following day Belanger arrived with a note from Mr. +Back stating that he had seen no trace of the Indians, and desiring +further instructions as to the course he should pursue. Belanger’s +situation however required our first care as he came in almost +speechless and covered with ice, having fallen into a rapid and, for +the third time since we left the coast, narrowly escaped drowning. He +did not recover sufficiently to answer our questions until we had +rubbed him for some time, changed his dress, and given him some warm +soup. My companions nursed him with the greatest kindness and the +desire of restoring him to health seemed to absorb all regard for their +own situation. I witnessed with peculiar pleasure this conduct, so +different from that which they had recently pursued when every tender +feeling was suspended by the desire of self-preservation. They now no +longer betrayed impatience or despondency but were composed and +cheerful and had entirely given up the practice of swearing, to which +the Canadian voyagers are so lamentably addicted. Our conversation +naturally turned upon the prospect of getting relief and upon the means +which were best adapted for obtaining it. The absence of all traces of +Indians on Winter River convinced me that they were at this time on the +way to Fort Providence and that, by proceeding towards that post, we +should overtake them as they move slowly when they have their families +with them. This route also offered us the prospect of killing deer in +the vicinity of Reindeer Lake, in which neighbourhood our men in their +journey to and fro last winter had always found them abundant. Upon +these grounds I determined on taking the route to Fort Providence as +soon as possible, and wrote to Mr. Back, desiring him to join me at +Reindeer Lake and detailing the occurrences since we parted, that our +friends might receive relief in case of any accident happening to me. + +Belanger did not recover sufficient strength to leave us before the +18th. His answers as to the exact part of Round-Rock Lake in which he +had left Mr. Back were very unsatisfactory, and we could only collect +that it was at a considerable distance, and that he was still going on +with the intention of halting at the place where Akaitcho was encamped +last summer, about thirty miles off. This distance appeared so great +that I told Belanger it was very unsafe for him to attempt it alone and +that he would be several days in accomplishing it. He stated however +that, as the track was beaten, he should experience little fatigue, and +seemed so confident that I suffered him to depart with a supply of +singed hide. Next day I received information which explained why he was +so unwilling to acquaint us with the situation of Mr. Back’s party. He +dreaded that I should resolve upon joining it when our numbers would be +so great as to consume at once everything St. Germain might kill, if by +accident he should be successful in hunting. He even endeavoured to +entice away our other hunter, Adam, and proposed to him to carry off +the only kettle we had and without which we could not have subsisted +two days. Adam’s inability to move however precluded him from agreeing +to the proposal but he could assign no reason for not acquainting me +with it previous to Belanger’s departure. I was at first inclined to +consider the whole matter as a fiction of Adam’s, but he persisted in +his story without wavering, and Belanger when we met again confessed +that every part of it was true. It is painful to have to record a fact +so derogatory to human nature but I have deemed it proper to mention it +to show the difficulties we had to contend with, and the effect which +distress had in warping the feelings and understanding of the most +diligent and obedient of our party, for such Belanger had been always +esteemed up to this time. + +In making arrangements for our departure Adam disclosed to me for the +first time that he was affected with oedematous swellings in some parts +of the body to such a degree as to preclude the slightest attempt at +marching and, upon my expressing my surprise at his having hitherto +concealed from me the extent of his malady, among other explanations +the details of the preceding story came out. It now became necessary to +abandon the original intention of proceeding with the whole party +towards Fort Providence and, Peltier and Samandré having volunteered to +remain with Adam, I determined on setting out with Benoit and Augustus, +intending to send them relief by the first party of Indians we should +meet. My clothes were so much torn as to be quite inadequate to screen +me from the wind and Peltier and Samandré, fearing that I might suffer +on the journey in consequence, kindly exchanged with me parts of their +dress, desiring me to send them skins in return by the Indians. Having +patched up three pairs of snowshoes and singed a quantity of skin for +the journey we started on the morning of the 20th. Previous to my +departure I packed up the journals of the officers, the charts, and +some other documents, together with a letter addressed to the +Under-Secretary of State detailing the occurrences of the Expedition up +to this period, which package was given in charge to Peltier and +Samandré with directions that it should be brought away by the Indians +who might come to them. I also instructed them to send succour +immediately on its arrival to our companions in the rear, which they +solemnly promised to do, and I left a letter for my friends, Richardson +and Hood, to be sent at the same time. I thought it necessary to +admonish Peltier, Samandré, and Adam to eat two meals every day in +order to keep up their strength, which they promised me they would do. +No language that I can use could adequately describe the parting scene. +I shall only say there was far more calmness and resignation to the +Divine will evince by everyone than could have been expected. We were +all cheered by the hope that the Indians would be found by the one +party and relief sent to the other. Those who remained entreated us to +make all the haste we could and expressed their hope of seeing the +Indians in ten or twelve days. + +At first starting we were so feeble as scarcely to be able to move +forwards and the descent of the bank of the river through the deep snow +was a severe labour. When we came upon the ice where the snow was less +deep we got on better, but after walking six hours we had only gained +four miles and were then compelled by fatigue to encamp on the borders +of Round-Rock Lake. Augustus tried for fish here but without success so +that our fare was skin and tea. Composing ourselves to rest we lay +close to each other for warmth. We found the night bitterly cold and +the wind pierced through our famished frames. + +The next morning was mild and pleasant for travelling and we set out +after breakfast. We had not however gone many yards before I had the +misfortune to break my snowshoes by falling between two rocks. This +accident prevented me from keeping pace with Benoit and Augustus and in +the attempt I became quite exhausted. Feeling convinced that their +being delayed on my account might prove of fatal consequence to the +rest I resolved on returning to the house and letting them proceed +alone in search of the Indians. I therefore halted them only whilst I +wrote a note to Mr. Back, stating the reason of my return, and desiring +he would send meat from Reindeer Lake by these men if St. Germain +should kill any animals there. If Benoit should miss Mr. Back I +directed him to proceed to Fort Providence and furnished him with a +letter to the gentleman in charge of it, requesting that immediate +supplies might be sent to us. + +On my return to the house I found Samandré very dispirited and too +weak, as he said, to render any assistance to Peltier, upon whom the +whole labour of getting wood and collecting the means of subsistence +would have devolved. Conscious too that his strength would have been +unequal to these tasks they had determined upon taking only one meal +each day, so that I felt my going back particularly fortunate as I +hoped to stimulate Samandré to exertion and at any rate could +contribute some help to Peltier. I undertook the office of cooking and +insisted they should eat twice a day whenever food could be procured +but, as I was too weak to pound the bones, Peltier agreed to do that in +addition to his more fatiguing task of getting wood. We had a violent +snow-storm all the next day and this gloomy weather increased the +depression of spirits under which Adam and Samandré were labouring. +Neither of them would quit their beds and they scarcely ceased from +shedding tears all day; in vain did Peltier and myself endeavour to +cheer them. We had even to use much entreaty before they would take the +meals we had prepared for them. Our situation was indeed distressing +but in comparison with that of our friends in the rear we thought it +happy. Their condition gave us unceasing solicitude and was the +principal subject of our conversation. + +Though the weather was stormy on the 26th Samandré assisted me to +gather _tripe de roche_. Adam, who was very ill and could not now be +prevailed upon to eat this weed, subsisted principally on bones, though +he also partook of the soup. The _tripe de roche_ had hitherto afforded +us our chief support, and we naturally felt great uneasiness at the +prospect of being deprived of it by its being so frozen as to render it +impossible for us to gather it. + +We perceived our strength decline every day and every exertion began to +be irksome; when we were once seated the greatest effort was necessary +in order to rise, and we had frequently to lift each other from our +seats, but even in this pitiable condition we conversed cheerfully, +being sanguine as to the speedy arrival of the Indians. We calculated +indeed that if they should be near the situation where they had +remained last winter our men would have reached them by this day. +Having expended all the wood which we could procure from our present +dwelling, without danger of its fall, Peltier began this day to pull +down the partitions of the adjoining houses. Though these were only +distant about twenty yards yet the increase of labour in carrying the +wood fatigued him so much that by the evening he was exhausted. On the +next day his weakness was such, especially in the arms of which he +chiefly complained, that he with difficulty lifted the hatchet; still +he persevered whilst Samandré and I assisted him in bringing in the +wood, but our united strength could only collect sufficient to +replenish the fire four times in the course of the day. As the insides +of our mouths had become sore from eating the bone-soup we relinquished +the use of it and now boiled the skin, which mode of dressing we found +more palatable than frying it, as we had hitherto done. + +On the 29th Peltier felt his pains more severe and could only cut a few +pieces of wood. Samandré, who was still almost as weak, relieved him a +little time and I aided them in carrying in the wood. We endeavoured to +pick some _tripe de roche_, but in vain, as it was entirely frozen. In +turning up the snow, in searching for bones, I found several pieces of +bark which proved a valuable acquisition as we were almost destitute of +dry wood proper for kindling the fire. We saw a herd of reindeer +sporting on the river about half a mile from the house; they remained +there a long time but none of the party felt themselves strong enough +to go after them, nor was there one of us who could have fired a gun +without resting it. + +MURDER OF MR. HOOD. DEATH OF SEVERAL OF THE CANADIANS. + + +Whilst we were seated round the fire this evening, discoursing about +the anticipated relief, the conversation was suddenly interrupted by +Peltier’s exclaiming with joy “_Ah! le monde!_” imagining that he heard +the Indians in the other room; immediately afterwards to his bitter +disappointment Dr. Richardson and Hepburn entered, each carrying his +bundle. Peltier however soon recovered himself enough to express his +delight at their safe arrival and his regret that their companions were +not with them. When I saw them alone my own mind was instantly filled +with apprehensions respecting my friend Hood and our other companions, +which were immediately confirmed by the Doctor’s melancholy +communication that Mr. Hood and Michel were dead. Perrault and Fontano +had neither reached the tent nor been heard of by them. This +intelligence produced a melancholy despondency in the minds of my party +and on that account the particulars were deferred until another +opportunity. We were all shocked at beholding the emaciated +countenances of the Doctor and Hepburn as they strongly evidenced their +extremely debilitated state. The alteration in our appearance was +equally distressing to them for since the swellings had subsided we +were little more than skin and bone. The Doctor particularly remarked +the sepulchral tone of our voices which he requested us to make more +cheerful if possible, unconscious that his own partook of the same key. + +Hepburn, having shot a partridge which was brought to the house, the +Doctor tore out the feathers and, having held it to the fire a few +minutes, divided it into six portions. I and my three companions +ravenously devoured our shares as it was the first morsel of flesh any +of us had tasted for thirty-one days, unless indeed the small gristly +particles which we found occasionally adhering to the pounded bones may +be termed flesh. Our spirits were revived by this small supply and the +Doctor endeavoured to raise them still higher by the prospect of +Hepburn’s being able to kill a deer next day, as they had seen and even +fired at several near the house. He endeavoured too to rouse us into +some attention to the comfort of our apartment, and particularly to +roll up in the day our blankets which (expressly for the convenience of +Adam and Samandré) we had been in the habit of leaving by the fire +where we lay on them. The Doctor having brought his prayer-book and +testament, some prayers and psalms and portions of scripture +appropriate to our situation were read and we retired to bed. + +Next morning the Doctor and Hepburn went out early in search of deer, +but though they saw several herds and fired some shots they were not so +fortunate as to kill any, being too weak to hold their guns steadily. +The cold compelled the former to return soon but Hepburn persisted +until late in the evening. + +My occupation was to search for skins under the snow, it being now our +object immediately to get all that we would, but I had not strength to +drag in more than two of those which were within twenty yards of the +house until the Doctor came and assisted me. We made up our stock to +twenty-six but several of them were putrid and scarcely eatable, even +by men suffering the extremity of famine. Peltier and Samandré +continued very weak and dispirited and they were unable to cut +firewood. Hepburn had in consequence that laborious task to perform +after he came back. The Doctor having scarified the swelled parts of +Adam’s body a large quantity of water flowed out, and he obtained some +ease but still kept his bed. + +After our usual supper of singed skin and bone-soup Dr. Richardson +acquainted me with the afflicting circumstances attending the death of +Mr. Hood and Michel, and detailed the occurrences subsequent to my +departure from them which I shall give from his Journal in his own +words, but I must here be permitted to express the heart-felt sorrow +with which I was overwhelmed at the loss of so many companions, +especially of my friend Mr. Hood to whose zealous and able cooperation +I had been indebted for so much invaluable assistance during the +Expedition, whilst the excellent qualities of his heart engaged my +warmest regard. His scientific observations together with his maps and +drawings (a small part of which only appear in this work) evince a +variety of talent which, had his life been spared, must have rendered +him a distinguished ornament to his profession, and which will cause +his death to be felt as a loss to the service. + +DR. RICHARDSON’S NARRATIVE. + + +After Captain Franklin had bidden us farewell we remained seated by the +fireside as long as the willows the men had cut for us before they +departed lasted. We had no _tripe de roche_ that day but drank an +infusion of the country tea-plant, which was grateful from its warmth +although it afforded no sustenance. We then retired to bed where we +remained all the next day as the weather was stormy, and the snow-drift +so heavy as to destroy every prospect of success in our endeavours to +light a fire with the green and frozen willows which were our only +fuel. Through the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady the party, +previous to leaving London, had been furnished with a small collection +of religious books, of which we still retained two or three of the most +portable, and they proved of incalculable benefit to us. We read +portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in addition to the +morning and evening service, and found that they inspired us on each +perusal with so strong a sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God +that our situation even in these wilds appeared no longer destitute, +and we conversed not only with calmness but with cheerfulness, +detailing with unrestrained confidence the past events of our lives and +dwelling with hope on our future prospects. Had my poor friend been +spared to revisit his native land I should look back to this period +with unalloyed delight. + +On the morning of the 9th the weather although still cold was clear, +and I went out in quest of _tripe de roche_, leaving Hepburn to cut +willows for a fire and Mr. Hood in bed. I had no success as yesterday’s +snow-drift was so frozen on the surface of the rocks that I could not +collect any of the weed, but on my return to the tent I found that +Michel the Iroquois had come with a note from Mr. Franklin which stated +that, this man and Jean Baptiste Belanger being unable to proceed, were +about to return to us, and that a mile beyond our present encampment +there was a clump of pine-trees to which he recommended us to remove +the tent. Michel informed us that he quitted Mr. Franklin’s party +yesterday morning but that having missed his way he had passed the +night on the snow a mile or two to the northward of us. Belanger he +said, being impatient, left the fire about two hours earlier and, as he +had not arrived, he supposed must have gone astray. It will be seen in +the sequel that we had more than sufficient reason to doubt the truth +of this story. + +Michel now produced a hare and a partridge which he had killed in the +morning. This unexpected supply of provision was received by us with a +deep sense of gratitude to the Almighty for His goodness, and we looked +upon Michel as the instrument He had chosen to preserve all our lives. +He complained of cold and Mr. Hood offered to share his buffalo robe +with him at night. I gave him one of two shirts which I wore whilst +Hepburn in the warmth of his heart exclaimed “How I shall love this man +if I find that he does not tell lies like the others.” Our meals being +finished we arranged that the greatest part of the things should be +carried to the pines the next day and, after reading the evening +service, retired to bed full of hope. + +Early in the morning Hepburn, Michel, and myself, carried the +ammunition and most of the other heavy articles to the pines. Michel +was our guide and it did not occur to us at the time that his +conducting us perfectly straight was incompatible with his story of +having mistaken his road in coming to us. He now informed us that he +had on his way to the tent left on the hill above the pines a gun and +forty-eight balls which Perrault had given to him when with the rest of +Mr. Franklin’s party he took leave of him. It will be seen on a +reference to Mr. Franklin’s journal that Perrault carried his gun and +ammunition with him when they parted from Michel and Belanger. After we +had made a fire and drank a little of the country tea Hepburn and I +returned to the tent where we arrived in the evening, much exhausted +with our journey. Michel preferred sleeping where he was and requested +us to leave him the hatchet, which we did after he had promised to come +early in the morning to assist us in carrying the tent and bedding. Mr. +Hood remained in bed all day. Seeing nothing of Belanger today we gave +him up for lost. + +On the 11th, after waiting until late in the morning for Michel who did +not come, Hepburn and I loaded ourselves with the bedding and, +accompanied by Mr. Hood, set out for the pines. Mr. Hood was much +affected with dimness of sight, giddiness, and other symptoms of +extreme debility, which caused us to move very slowly and to make +frequent halts. + +On arriving at the pines we were much alarmed to find that Michel was +absent. We feared that he had lost his way in coming to us in the +morning, although it was not easy to conjecture how that could have +happened, as our footsteps of yesterday were very distinct. Hepburn +went back for the tent and returned with it after dusk, completely worn +out with the fatigue of the day. Michel too arrived at the same time +and relieved our anxiety on his account. He reported that he had been +in chase of some deer which passed near his sleeping-place in the +morning and, although he did not come up with them, yet that he found a +wolf which had been killed by the stroke of a deer’s horn and had +brought a part of it. We implicitly believed this story then, but +afterwards became convinced from circumstances, the detail of which may +be spared, that it must have been a portion of the body of Belanger or +Perrault. A question of moment here presents itself, namely whether he +actually murdered these men, or either of them, or whether he found the +bodies in the snow. Captain Franklin, who is the best able to judge of +this matter from knowing their situation when he parted from them, +suggested the former idea, and that both Belanger and Perrault had been +sacrificed. When Perrault turned back Captain Franklin watched him +until he reached a small group of willows which was immediately +adjoining to the fire and concealed it from view, and at this time the +smoke of fresh fuel was distinctly visible. Captain Franklin +conjectures that Michel, having already destroyed Belanger, completed +his crime by Perrault’s death in order to screen himself from +detection. Although this opinion is founded only on circumstances and +is unsupported by direct evidence it has been judged proper to mention +it, especially as the subsequent conduct of the man showed that he was +capable of committing such a deed. The circumstances are very strong. +It is not easy to assign any other adequate motive for his concealing +from us that Perrault had turned back, while his request overnight that +we should leave him the hatchet and his cumbering himself with it when +he went out in the morning, unlike a hunter who makes use only of his +knife when he kills a deer, seem to indicate that he took it for the +purpose of cutting up something that he knew to be frozen. These +opinions however are the result of subsequent consideration. We passed +this night in the open air. + +On the following morning the tent was pitched; Michel went out early, +refused my offer to accompany him, and remained out the whole day. He +would not sleep in the tent at night but chose to lie at the fireside. + +On the 13th there was a heavy gale of wind and we passed the day by the +fire. Next day about two P.M., the gale abating, Michel set out as he +said to hunt but returned unexpectedly in a very short time. This +conduct surprised us and his contradictory and evasory answers to our +questions excited some suspicions but they did not turn towards the +truth. + +October 15th. + +In the course of this day Michel expressed much regret that he had +stayed behind Mr. Franklin’s party, and declared that he would set out +for the house at once if he knew the way. We endeavoured to sooth him +and to raise his hopes of the Indians speedily coming to our relief but +without success. He refused to assist us in cutting wood but about +noon, after much solicitation, he set out to hunt. Hepburn gathered a +kettleful of _tripe de roche_, but froze his fingers. Both Hepburn and +I fatigued ourselves much today in pursuing a flock of partridges from +one part to another of the group of willows in which the hut was +situated, but we were too weak to be able to approach them with +sufficient caution. In the evening Michel returned, having met with no +success. + +Next day he refused either to hunt or cut wood, spoke in a very surly +manner, and threatened to leave us. Under these circumstances Mr. Hood +and I deemed it better to promise if he would hunt diligently for four +days that then we would give Hepburn a letter for Mr. Franklin, a +compass, inform him what course to pursue, and let them proceed +together to the fort. The non-arrival of the Indians to our relief now +led us to fear that some accident had happened to Mr. Franklin, and we +placed no confidence in the exertions of the Canadians that accompanied +him but we had the fullest confidence in Hepburn’s returning the moment +he could obtain assistance. + +On the 17th I went to conduct Michel to where Vaillant’s blanket was +left and after walking about three miles pointed out the hills to him +at a distance, and returned to the hut, having gathered a bagful of +_tripe de roche_ on the way. It was easier to gather this weed on a +march than at the tent, for the exercise of walking produced a glow of +heat which enabled us to withstand for a time the cold to which we were +exposed in scraping the frozen surface of the rocks. On the contrary +when we left the fire to collect it in the neighbourhood of the hut we +became chilled at once and were obliged to return very quickly. + +Michel proposed to remain out all night and to hunt next day on his way +back. He returned in the afternoon of the 18th, having found the +blanket together with a bag containing two pistols and some other +things which had been left beside it. We had some _tripe de roche_ in +the evening but Mr. Hood, from the constant griping it produced, was +unable to eat more than one or two spoonfuls. He was now so weak as to +be scarcely able to sit up at the fireside and complained that the +least breeze of wind seemed to blow through his frame. He also suffered +much from cold during the night. We lay close to each other but the +heat of the body was no longer sufficient to thaw the frozen rime +formed by our breaths on the blankets that covered him. + +At this period we avoided as much as possible conversing upon the +hopelessness of our situation and generally endeavoured to lead the +conversation towards our future prospects in life. The fact is that +with the decay of our strength our minds decayed, and we were no longer +able to bear the contemplation of the horrors that surrounded us. Each +of us, if I may be allowed to judge from my own case, excused himself +from so doing by a desire of not shocking the feelings of others, for +we were sensible of one another’s weakness of intellect though blind to +our own. Yet we were calm and resigned to our fate, not a murmur +escaped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our addresses to the +Supreme Being. + +On the 19th Michel refused to hunt or even to assist in carrying a log +of wood to the fire which was too heavy for Hepburn’s strength and +mine. Mr. Hood endeavoured to point out to him the necessity and duty +of exertion, and the cruelty of his quitting us without leaving +something for our support, but the discourse, far from producing any +beneficial effect, seemed only to excite his anger and, amongst other +expressions, he made use of the following remarkable one: “It is no use +hunting, there are no animals, you had better kill and eat me.” At +length however he went out but returned very soon with a report that he +had seen three deer which he was unable to follow from having wet his +foot in a small stream of water thinly covered with ice and being +consequently obliged to come to the fire. The day was rather mild and +Hepburn and I gathered a large kettleful of _tripe de roche;_ Michel +slept in the tent this night. + +Sunday, October 20. + +In the morning we again urged Michel to go a-hunting that he might if +possible leave us some provision, tomorrow being the day appointed for +his quitting us, but he showed great unwillingness to go out and +lingered about the fire under the pretence of cleaning his gun. After +we had read the morning service I went about noon to gather some _tripe +de roche_, leaving Mr. Hood sitting before the tent at the fireside +arguing with Michel; Hepburn was employed cutting down a tree at a +short distance from the tent, being desirous of accumulating a quantity +of firewood before he left us. A short time after I went out I heard +the report of a gun, and about ten minutes afterwards Hepburn called to +me in a voice of great alarm to come directly. When I arrived I found +poor Hood lying lifeless at the fireside, a ball having apparently +entered his forehead. I was at first horror-struck with the idea that +in a fit of despondency he had hurried himself into the presence of his +Almighty Judge by an act of his own hand, but the conduct of Michel +soon gave rise to other thoughts, and excited suspicions which were +confirmed when, upon examining the body, I discovered that the shot had +entered the back part of the head and passed out at the forehead, and +that the muzzle of the gun had been applied so close as to set fire to +the night-cap behind. The gun, which was of the longest kind supplied +to the Indians, could not have been placed in a position to inflict +such a wound except by a second person. Upon inquiring of Michel how it +happened he replied that Mr. Hood had sent him into the tent for the +short gun and that during his absence the long gun had gone off, he did +not know whether by accident or not. He held the short gun in his hand +at the time he was speaking to me. Hepburn afterwards informed me that +previous to the report of the gun Mr. Hood and Michel were speaking to +each other in an elevated angry tone, that Mr. Hood, being seated at +the fireside, was hid from him by intervening willows, but that on +hearing the report he looked up and saw Michel rising up from before +the tent-door, or just behind where Mr. Hood was seated, and then going +into the tent. Thinking that the gun had been discharged for the +purpose of cleaning it he did not go to the fire at first, and when +Michel called to him that Mr. Hood was dead a considerable time had +elapsed. Although I dared not openly to evince any suspicion that I +thought Michel guilty of the deed, yet he repeatedly protested that he +was incapable of committing such an act, kept constantly on his guard, +and carefully avoided leaving Hepburn and me together. He was evidently +afraid of permitting us to converse in private and whenever Hepburn +spoke he inquired if he accused him of the murder. It is to be remarked +that he understood English very imperfectly yet sufficiently to render +it unsafe for us to speak on the subject in his presence. We removed +the body into a clump of willows behind the tent and, returning to the +fire, read the funeral service in addition to the evening prayers. The +loss of a young officer of such distinguished and varied talents and +application may be felt and duly appreciated by the eminent characters +under whose command he had served, but the calmness with which he +contemplated the probable termination of a life of uncommon promise, +and the patience and fortitude with which he sustained, I may venture +to say, unparalleled bodily sufferings, can only be known to the +companions of his distresses. Owing to the effect that the _tripe de +roche_ invariably had when he ventured to taste it, he undoubtedly +suffered more than any of the survivors of the party. _Bickersteth’s +Scripture Help_ was lying open beside the body as if it had fallen from +his hand, and it is probable that he was reading it at the instant of +his death. We passed the night in the tent together without rest, +everyone being on his guard. Next day, having determined on going to +the fort, we began to patch and prepare our clothes for the journey. We +singed the hair off a part of the buffalo robe that belonged to Mr. +Hood and boiled and ate it. Michel tried to persuade me to go to the +woods on the Copper-Mine River and hunt for deer instead of going to +the fort. In the afternoon, a flock of partridges coming near the tent, +he killed several which he shared with us. + +Thick snowy weather and a head-wind prevented us from starting the +following day but on the morning of the 23rd we set out, carrying with +us the remainder of the singed robe. Hepburn and Michel had each a gun +and I carried a small pistol which Hepburn had loaded for me. In the +course of the march Michel alarmed us much by his gestures and conduct, +was constantly muttering to himself, expressed an unwillingness to go +to the fort, and tried to persuade me to go to the southward to the +woods where he said he could maintain himself all the winter by killing +deer. In consequence of this behaviour and the expression of his +countenance I requested him to leave us and to go to the southward by +himself. This proposal increased his ill-nature, he threw out some +obscure hints of freeing himself from all restraint on the morrow, and +I overheard his muttering threats against Hepburn whom he openly +accused of having told stories against him. He also for the first time +assumed such a tone of superiority in addressing me as evinced that he +considered us to be completely in his power and he gave vent to several +expressions of hatred towards the white people or as he termed us in +the idiom of the voyagers, the French, some of whom he said had killed +and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. In short, taking every +circumstance of his conduct into consideration, I came to the +conclusion that he would attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity +that offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing so from his +ignorance of his way to the fort, but that he would never suffer us to +go thither in company with him. In the course of the day he had several +times remarked that we were pursuing the same course that Mr. Franklin +was doing when he left him and that, by keeping towards the setting +sun, he could find his way himself. Hepburn and I were not in a +condition to resist even an open attack, nor could we by any device +escape from him. Our united strength was far inferior to his and, +beside his gun, he was armed with two pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a +knife. In the afternoon, coming to a rock on which there was some +_tripe de roche_, he halted and said he would gather it whilst we went +on and that he would soon overtake us. Hepburn and I were now left +together for the first time since Mr. Hood’s death, and he acquainted +me with several material circumstances which he had observed of +Michel’s behaviour and which confirmed me in the opinion that there was +no safety for us except in his death, and he offered to be the +instrument of it. I determined however, as I was thoroughly convinced +of the necessity of such a dreadful act, to take the whole +responsibility upon myself and, immediately upon Michel’s coming up, I +put an end to his life by shooting him through the head with a pistol. +Had my own life alone been threatened I would not have purchased it by +such a measure, but I considered myself as entrusted also with the +protection of Hepburn’s, a man who, by his humane attentions and +devotedness, had so endeared himself to me that I felt more anxiety for +his safety than for my own. Michel had gathered no _tripe de roche_, +and it was evident to us that he had halted for the purpose of putting +his gun in order with the intention of attacking us, perhaps whilst we +were in the act of encamping. + +I have dwelt in the preceding part of the narrative upon many +circumstances of Michel’s conduct, not for the purpose of aggravating +his crime, but to put the reader in possession of the reasons that +influenced me in depriving a fellow-creature of life. Up to the period +of his return to the tent his conduct had been good and respectful to +the officers, and in a conversation between Captain Franklin, Mr. Hood, +and myself, at Obstruction Rapid, it had been proposed to give him a +reward upon our arrival at a post. His principles however, unsupported +by a belief in the divine truths of Christianity, were unable to +withstand the pressure of severe distress. His countrymen, the +Iroquois, are generally Christians, but he was totally uninstructed and +ignorant of the duties inculcated by Christianity, and from his long +residence in the Indian country seems to have imbibed or retained the +rules of conduct which the southern Indians prescribe to themselves. + +On the two following days we had mild but thick snowy weather and, as +the view was too limited to enable us to preserve a straight course, we +remained encamped amongst a few willows and dwarf pines about five +miles from the tent. We found a species of _cornicularia_, a kind of +lichen that was good to eat when moistened and toasted over the fire, +and we had a good many pieces of singed buffalo hide remaining. + +On the 26th, the weather being clear and extremely cold, we resumed our +march which was very painful from the depth of the snow, particularly +on the margins of the small lakes that lay in our route. We frequently +sunk under the load of our blankets and were obliged to assist each +other in getting up. After walking about three miles and a half however +we were cheered by the sight of a large herd of reindeer and Hepburn +went in pursuit of them but, his hand being unsteady through weakness, +he missed. He was so exhausted by this fruitless attempt that we were +obliged to encamp upon the spot although it was a very unfavourable +one. + +Next day we had fine and clear but cold weather. We set out early and, +in crossing a hill, found a considerable quantity of _tripe de roche_. +About noon we fell upon Little Marten Lake, having walked about two +miles. The sight of a place that we knew inspired us with fresh vigour +and, there being comparatively little snow on the ice, we advanced at a +pace to which we had lately been unaccustomed. In the afternoon we +crossed a recent track of a wolverine which, from a parallel mark in +the snow, appeared to have been dragging something. Hepburn traced it +and upon the borders of the lake found the spine of a deer that it had +dropped. It was clean picked and at least one season old, but we +extracted the spinal marrow from it which, even in its frozen state, +was so acrid as to excoriate the lips. We encamped within sight of the +Dog-Rib Rock and from the coldness of the night and the want of fuel +rested very ill. + +On the 28th we rose at daybreak, but from the want of the small fire +that we usually made in the mornings to warm our fingers, a very long +time was spent in making up our bundles. This task fell to Hepburn’s +share as I suffered so much from the cold as to be unable to take my +hands out of my mittens. We kept a straight course for the Dog-Rib Rock +but, owing to the depth of the snow in the valleys we had to cross, did +not reach it until late in the afternoon. We would have encamped but +did not like to pass a second night without fire and, though scarcely +able to drag our limbs after us, we pushed on to a clump of pines about +a mile to the southward of the rock and arrived at them in the dusk of +the evening. During the last few hundred yards of our march our track +lay over some large stones amongst which I fell down upwards of twenty +times, and became at length so exhausted that I was unable to stand. If +Hepburn had not exerted himself far beyond his strength and speedily +made the encampment and kindled a fire, I must have perished on the +spot. This night we had plenty of dry wood. + +On the 29th we had clear and fine weather. We set out at sunrise and +hurried on in our anxiety to reach the house, but our progress was much +impeded by the great depth of the snow in the valleys. Although every +spot of ground over which we travelled today had been repeatedly +trodden by us yet we got bewildered in a small lake. We took it for +Marten Lake, which was three times its size, and fancied that we saw +the rapids and the grounds about the fort, although they were still far +distant. Our disappointment when this illusion was dispelled by our +reaching the end of the lake so operated on our feeble minds as to +exhaust our strength, and we decided upon encamping but, upon ascending +a small eminence to look for a clump of wood, we caught a glimpse of +the Big Stone, a well-known rock upon the summit of a hill opposite to +the fort, and determined upon proceeding. In the evening we saw several +large herds of reindeer but Hepburn, who used to be considered a good +marksman, was now unable to hold the gun straight and although he got +near them all his efforts proved fruitless. In passing through a small +clump of pines we saw a flock of partridges, and he succeeded in +killing one after firing several shots. We came in sight of the fort at +dusk and it is impossible to describe our sensations when, on attaining +the eminence that overlooks it, we beheld the smoke issuing from one of +the chimneys. From not having met with any footsteps in the snow as we +drew nigh our once cheerful residence we had been agitated by many +melancholy forebodings. Upon entering the now desolate building we had +the satisfaction of embracing Captain Franklin, but no words can convey +an idea of the filth and wretchedness that met our eyes on looking +around. Our own misery had stolen upon us by degrees and we were +accustomed to the contemplation of each other’s emaciated figures, but +the ghastly countenances, dilated eyeballs, and sepulchral voices of +Captain Franklin and those with him were more than we could at first +bear. + +CONCLUSION OF DR. RICHARDSON’S NARRATIVE. + + +The morning of the 31st was very cold, the wind being strong from the +north. Hepburn went again in quest of deer and the Doctor endeavoured +to kill some partridges, both were unsuccessful. A large herd of deer +passed close to the house, the Doctor fired once at them but was unable +to pursue them. Adam was easier this day and left his bed. Peltier and +Samandré were much weaker and could not assist in the labours of the +day. Both complained of soreness in the throat and Samandré suffered +much from cramps in his fingers. The Doctor and Hepburn began this day +to cut the wood and also brought it to the house. Being too weak to aid +in these laborious tasks I was employed in searching for bones and +cooking and attending to our more weakly companions. + +In the evening Peltier, complaining much of cold, requested of me a +portion of a blanket to repair his shirt and drawers. The mending of +these articles occupied him and Samandré until past one A.M. and their +spirits were so much revived by the employment that they conversed even +cheerfully the whole time. Adam sat up with them. The Doctor, Hepburn, +and myself went to bed. We were afterwards agreeably surprised to see +Peltier and Samandré carry three or four logs of wood across the room +to replenish the fire, which induced us to hope they still possessed +more strength than we had supposed. + +November 1. + +This day was fine and mild. Hepburn went hunting but was as usual +unsuccessful. As his strength was rapidly declining we advised him to +desist from the pursuit of deer, and only to go out for a short time +and endeavour to kill a few partridges for Peltier and Samandré. The +Doctor obtained a little _tripe de roche_, but Peltier could not eat +any of it, and Samandré only a few spoonfuls, owing to the soreness of +their throats. In the afternoon Peltier was so much exhausted that he +sat up with difficulty and looked piteously; at length he slid from his +stool upon his bed, as we supposed to sleep, and in this composed state +he remained upwards of two hours without our apprehending any danger. +We were then alarmed by hearing a rattling in his throat and on the +Doctor’s examining him he was found to be speechless. He died in the +course of the night. Samandré sat up the greater part of the day and +even assisted in pounding some bones but, on witnessing the melancholy +state of Peltier, he became very low and began to complain of cold and +stiffness of the joints. Being unable to keep up a sufficient fire to +warm him we laid him down and covered him with several blankets. He did +not however appear to get better and I deeply lament to add he also +died before daylight. We removed the bodies of the deceased into the +opposite part of the house but our united strength was inadequate to +the task of interring them or even carrying them down to the river. + +It may be worthy of remark that poor Peltier, from the time of Benoit’s +departure, had fixed on the first of November as the time when he +should cease to expect any relief from the Indians, and had repeatedly +said that if they did not arrive by that day he should not survive. + +Peltier had endeared himself to each of us by his cheerfulness, his +unceasing activity, and affectionate care and attentions ever since our +arrival at this place. He had nursed Adam with the tenderest solicitude +the whole time. Poor Samandré was willing to have taken his share in +the labours of the party had he not been wholly incapacitated by his +weakness and low spirits. The severe shock occasioned by the sudden +dissolution of our two companions rendered us very melancholy. Adam +became low and despondent, a change which we lamented the more as we +had perceived he had been gaining strength and spirits for the two +preceding days. I was particularly distressed by the thought that the +labour of collecting wood must now devolve upon Dr. Richardson and +Hepburn, and that my debility would disable me from affording them any +material assistance; indeed both of them most kindly urged me not to +make the attempt. They were occupied the whole of the next day in +tearing down the logs of which the storehouse was built but the mud +plastered between them was so hard frozen that the labour of separation +exceeded their strength, and they were completely exhausted by bringing +in wood sufficient for less than twelve hours’ consumption. + +I found it necessary in their absence to remain constantly near Adam +and to converse with him in order to prevent his reflecting on our +condition, and to keep up his spirits as far as possible. I also lay by +his side at night. + +On the 3rd the weather was very cold though the atmosphere was cloudy. +This morning Hepburn was affected with swelling in his limbs, his +strength as well as that of the Doctor was rapidly declining; they +continued however to be full of hope. Their utmost exertions could only +supply wood to renew the fire thrice and on making it up the last time +we went to bed. Adam was in rather better spirits but he could not bear +to be left alone. Our stock of bones was exhausted by a small quantity +of soup we made this evening. The toil of separating the hair from the +skins, which in fact were our chief support, had now become so +wearisome as to prevent us from eating as much as we should otherwise +have done. + +November 4. + +Calm and comparatively mild weather. The Doctor and Hepburn, exclusive +of their usual occupation, gathered some _tripe de roche_. I went a few +yards from the house in search of bones and returned quite fatigued, +having found but three. The Doctor again made incisions in Adam’s leg +which discharged a considerable quantity of water and gave him great +relief. We read prayers and a portion of the New Testament in the +morning and evening, as had been our practice since Dr. Richardson’s +arrival, and I may remark that the performance of these duties always +afforded us the greatest consolation, serving to reanimate our hope in +the mercy of the Omnipotent, who alone could save and deliver us. + +On the 5th the breezes were light with dark cloudy weather and some +snow. The Doctor and Hepburn were getting much weaker and the limbs of +the latter were now greatly swelled. They came into the house +frequently in the course of the day to rest themselves and when once +seated were unable to rise without the help of one another, or of a +stick. Adam was for the most part in the same low state as yesterday, +but sometimes he surprised us by getting up and walking with an +appearance of increased strength. His looks were now wild and ghastly +and his conversation was often incoherent. + +The next day was fine but very cold. The swellings in Adam’s limbs +having subsided he was free from pain and arose this morning in much +better spirits, and spoke of cleaning his gun ready for shooting +partridges or any animals that might appear near the house, but his +tone entirely changed before the day was half over; he became again +dejected and could scarcely be prevailed upon to eat. The Doctor and +Hepburn were almost exhausted. The cutting of one log of wood occupied +the latter half an hour, and the other took as much time to drag it +into the house, though the distance did not exceed thirty yards. I +endeavoured to help the Doctor but my assistance was very trifling. Yet +it was evident that in a day or two if their strength should continue +to decline at the same rate I should be the strongest of the party. + +I may here remark that owing to our loss of flesh the hardness of the +floor from which we were only protected by a blanket produced soreness +over the body, and especially those parts on which the weight rested in +lying, yet to turn ourselves for relief was a matter of toil and +difficulty. However during this period and indeed all along after the +acute pains of hunger, which lasted but three or four days, had +subsided, we generally enjoyed the comfort of a few hours’ sleep. The +dreams which for the most part but not always accompanied it were +usually (though not invariably) of a pleasant character, being very +often about the enjoyments of feasting. In the daytime we fell into the +practice of conversing on common and light subjects, although we +sometimes discussed with seriousness and earnestness topics connected +with religion. We generally avoided speaking directly of our present +sufferings or even of the prospect of relief. I observed that in +proportion as our strength decayed our minds exhibited symptoms of +weakness, evinced by a kind of unreasonable pettishness with each +other. Each of us thought the other weaker in intellect than himself, +and more in need of advice and assistance. So trifling a circumstance +as a change of place, recommended by one as being warmer and more +comfortable and refused by the other from a dread of motion, frequently +called forth fretful expressions which were no sooner uttered than +atoned for, to be repeated perhaps in the course of a few minutes. The +same thing often occurred when we endeavoured to assist each other in +carrying wood to the fire; none of us were willing to receive +assistance although the task was disproportioned to our strength. On +one of these occasions Hepburn was so convinced of this waywardness +that he exclaimed, “Dear me, if we are spared to return to England, I +wonder if we shall recover our understandings.” + +November 7. + +Adam had passed a restless night, being disquieted by gloomy +apprehensions of approaching death, which we tried in vain to dispel. +He was so low in the morning as to be scarcely able to speak. I +remained in bed by his side to cheer him as much as possible. The +Doctor and Hepburn went to cut wood. They had hardly begun their labour +when they were amazed at hearing the report of a musket. They could +scarcely believe that there was really anyone near until they heard a +shout and immediately espied three Indians close to the house. Adam and +I heard the latter noise and I was fearful that a part of the house had +fallen upon one of my companions, a disaster which had in fact been +thought not unlikely. My alarm was only momentary, Dr. Richardson came +in to communicate the joyful intelligence that relief had arrived. He +and myself immediately addressed thanksgivings to the throne of mercy +for this deliverance but poor Adam was in so low a state that he could +scarcely comprehend the information. When the Indians entered he +attempted to rise but sank down again. But for this seasonable +interposition of Providence his existence must have terminated in a few +hours, and that of the rest probably in not many days. + +The Indians had left Akaitcho’s encampment on the 5th November, having +been sent by Mr. Back with all possible expedition after he had arrived +at their tents. They brought but a small supply of provision that they +might travel quickly. It consisted of dried deer’s meat, some fat, and +a few tongues. Dr. Richardson, Hepburn and I eagerly devoured the food +which they imprudently presented to us in too great abundance, and in +consequence we suffered dreadfully from indigestion and had no rest the +whole night. Adam, being unable to feed himself, was more judiciously +treated by them and suffered less; his spirits revived hourly. The +circumstance of our eating more food than was proper in our present +condition was another striking proof of the debility of our minds. We +were perfectly aware of the danger, and Dr. Richardson repeatedly +cautioned us to be moderate, but he was himself unable to practise the +caution he so judiciously recommended. + +Boudell-kell, the youngest of the Indians, after resting about an hour, +returned to Akaitcho with the intelligence of our situation, and he +conveyed a note from me to Mr. Back, requesting another supply of meat +as soon as possible. The two others, Crooked-Foot and the Rat, remained +to take care of us until we should be able to move forward. + +The note received by the Indians from Mr. Back communicated a tale of +distress with regard to himself and his party as painful as that which +we had suffered, as will be seen hereafter by his own narrative. + +November 8. + +The Indians this morning requested us to remove to an encampment on the +banks of the river as they were unwilling to remain in the house where +the bodies of our deceased companions were lying exposed to view. We +agreed but the day proved too stormy and Dr. Richardson and Hepburn, +having dragged the bodies to a short distance and covered them with +snow, the objections of the Indians to remain in the house were +dissipated, and they began to clear our room of the accumulation of +dirt and fragments of pounded bones. The improved state of our +apartment and the large and cheerful fires they kept up produced in us +a sensation of comfort to which we had long been strangers. In the +evening they brought in a pile of dried wood which was lying on the +riverside and towards which we had often cast a wishful eye, being +unable to drag it up the bank. The Indians set about everything with an +activity that amazed us. Indeed contrasted with our emaciated figures +and extreme debility their frames appeared to us gigantic and their +strength supernatural. These kind creatures next turned their attention +to our personal appearance and prevailed upon us to shave and wash +ourselves. The beards of the Doctor and Hepburn had been untouched +since they left the sea-coast and were become of a hideous length and +peculiarly offensive to the Indians. The Doctor and I suffered +extremely from distension and therefore ate sparingly.[34] Hepburn was +getting better and Adam recovered his strength with amazing rapidity. + + [34] The first alvine discharges after we received food were, as + Hearne remarks on a similar occasion, attended with excessive pain. + Previous to the arrival of the Indians the urinary secretion was + extremely abundant and we were obliged to rise from bed in consequence + upwards of ten times in a night. This was an extreme annoyance in our + reduced state. It may perhaps be attributed to the quantity of the + country tea that we drank. + + +November 9. + +This morning was pleasantly fine. Crooked-Foot caught four large trout +in Winter Lake which were very much prized, especially by the Doctor +and myself, who had taken a dislike to meat in consequence of our +sufferings from repletion which rendered us almost incapable of moving. +Adam and Hepburn in a good measure escaped this pain. Though the night +was stormy and our apartment freely admitted the wind we felt no +inconvenience, the Indians were so very careful in covering us up and +in keeping a good fire, and our plentiful cheer gave such power of +resisting the cold, that we could scarcely believe otherwise than that +the season had become milder. + +On the 13th the weather was stormy with constant snow. The Indians +became desponding at the non-arrival of the supply and would neither go +to hunt nor fish. They frequently expressed their fears of some +misfortune having befallen Boudel-kell, and in the evening went off +suddenly without apprising us of their intention, having first given to +each of us a handful of pounded meat which they had reserved. Their +departure at first gave rise to a suspicion of their having deserted +us, not meaning to return, especially as the explanations of Adam, who +appeared to be in their secret, were very unsatisfactory. At length by +interrogations we got from him the information that they designed to +march night and day until they should reach Akaitcho’s encampment +whence they would send us aid. As we had combated their fears about +Boudell-kell they perhaps apprehended that we should oppose their +determination and therefore concealed it. We were now left a second +time without food, and with appetites recovered and strongly excited by +recent indulgence. + +On the following day the Doctor and Hepburn resumed their former +occupation of collecting wood and I was able to assist a little in +bringing it into the house. Adam, whose expectation of the arrival of +the Indians had been raised by the fineness of the weather, became +towards night very desponding and refused to eat the singed skin. The +night was stormy and there was a heavy fall of snow. The next day he +became still more dejected. About eleven Hepburn, who had gone out for +the wood, came in with the intelligence that a party appeared upon the +river. The room was instantly swept and, in compliance with the +prejudices of the Indians, every scrap of skin was carefully removed +out of sight, for these simple people imagine that burning deer-skin +renders them unsuccessful in hunting. The party proved to be +Crooked-Foot, Thooeeyorre, and the Fop, with the wives of the two +latter dragging provisions. They were accompanied by Benoit, one of our +own men. + +We were rejoiced to learn by a note from Mr. Back dated November 11 +that he and his companions had so recruited their strength that they +were preparing to proceed to Fort Providence. Adam recovered his +spirits on the arrival of the Indians and even walked about the room +with an appearance of strength and activity that surprised us all. As +it was of consequence to get amongst the reindeer before our present +supply should fail we made preparations for quitting Fort Enterprise +the next day and accordingly, at an early hour on the 16th, having +united in thanksgiving and prayer, the whole party left the house after +breakfast. Our feelings on quitting the fort where we had formerly +enjoyed much comfort, if not happiness, and latterly experienced a +degree of misery scarcely to be paralleled, may be more easily +conceived than described. The Indians treated us with the utmost +tenderness, gave us their snowshoes, and walked without themselves, +keeping by our sides that they might lift us when we fell. We descended +Winter River and about noon crossed the head of Round-Rock Lake, +distant about three miles from the house, where we were obliged to halt +as Dr. Richardson was unable to proceed. The swellings in his limbs +rendered him by much the weakest of the party. The Indians prepared our +encampment, cooked for us, and fed us as if we had been children, +evincing humanity that would have done honour to the most civilised +people. The night was mild and fatigue made us sleep soundly. + +From this period to the 26th of November we gradually improved through +their kindness and attention, and on that day arrived in safety at the +abode of our chief and companion Akaitcho. We were received by the +party assembled in the leader’s tent with looks of compassion and +profound silence which lasted about a quarter of an hour and by which +they meant to express their condolence for our sufferings. The +conversation did not begin until we had tasted food. The chief Akaitcho +showed us the most friendly hospitality and all sorts of personal +attention, even to cooking for us with his own hands, an office which +he never performs for himself. Annoethaiyazzeh and Humpy, the chief’s +two brothers, and several of our hunters, with their families were +encamped here together with a number of old men and women. In the +course of the day we were visited by every person of the band, not +merely from curiosity, but a desire to evince their tender sympathy in +our late distress. We learned that Mr. Back with St. Germain and +Belanger had gone to Fort Providence and that, previous to his +departure, he had left a letter in a _cache_ of pounded meat which we +had missed two days ago. As we supposed that this letter might acquaint +us with his intentions more fully than we could gather from the +Indians, through our imperfect knowledge of their language, Augustus, +the Esquimaux, whom we found here in perfect health, and an Indian lad +were despatched to bring it. + +We found several of the Indian families in great affliction for the +loss of three of their relatives who had been drowned in the August +preceding by the upsetting of a canoe near Fort Enterprise. They +bewailed the melancholy accident every morning and evening by repeating +the names of the persons in a loud singing tone which was frequently +interrupted by bursts of tears. One woman was so affected by the loss +of her only son that she seemed deprived of reason and wandered about +the tents the whole day, crying and singing out his name. + +On the 1st of December we removed with the Indians to the southward. + +On the 4th we again set off after the Indians about noon, and soon +overtook them, as they had halted to drag from the water and cut up and +share a moose-deer that had been drowned in a rapid part of the river, +partially covered with ice. These operations detained us a long time +which was the more disagreeable as the weather was extremely unpleasant +from cold low fogs. We were all much fatigued at the hour of +encampment, which was after dark, though the day’s journey did not +exceed four miles. At every halt the elderly men of the tribe made +holes in the ice and put in their lines. One of them shared the produce +of his fishery with us this evening. + +In the afternoon of the 6th Belanger and another Canadian arrived from +Fort Providence, sent by Mr. Weeks with two trains of dogs, some +spirits and tobacco for the Indians, a change of dress for ourselves, +and a little tea and sugar. They also brought letters for us from +England and from Mr. Back and Mr. Wentzel. By the former we received +the gratifying intelligence of the successful termination of Captain +Parry’s voyage, and were informed of the promotion of myself and Mr. +Back, and of poor Hood, our grief for whose loss was renewed by this +intelligence. + +The letter from Mr. Back stated that the rival Companies in the fur +trade had united but that, owing to some cause which had not been +explained to him, the goods intended as rewards to Akaitcho and his +band which we had demanded in the spring from the North-West Company +were not sent. There were however some stores lying for us at +Moose-Deer Island, which had been ordered for the equipment of our +voyagers, and Mr. Back had gone across to that establishment to make a +selection of the articles we could spare for a temporary present to the +Indians. The disappointment at the non-arrival of the goods was +seriously felt by us as we had looked forward with pleasure to the time +when we should be enabled to recompense our kind Indian friends for +their tender sympathy in our distresses, and the assistance they had so +cheerfully and promptly rendered. I now regretted to find that Mr. +Wentzel and his party, in their return from the sea, had suffered +severely on their march along the Copper-Mine River, having on one +occasion, as he mentioned, had no food but _tripe de roche_ for eleven +days. + +All the Indians flocked to our encampment to learn the news and to +receive the articles brought for them. Having got some spirits and +tobacco they withdrew to the tent of the chief and passed the greater +part of the night in singing. We had now the indescribable +gratification of changing our linen which had been worn ever since our +departure from the sea-coast. + +December 8. + +After a long conference with Akaitcho we took leave of him and his kind +companions and set out with two sledges, heavily laden with provision +and bedding, drawn by the dogs, and conducted by Belanger and the +Canadian sent by Mr. Weeks. Hepburn and Augustus jointly dragged a +smaller sledge laden principally with their own bedding. Adam and +Benoit were left to follow with the Indians. We encamped on the +Grassy-Lake Portage, having walked about nine miles, principally on the +Yellow Knife River. It was open at the rapids and in these places we +had to ascend its banks and walk through the woods for some distance, +which was very fatiguing, especially to Dr. Richardson whose feet were +severely galled in consequence of some defect in his snowshoes. + +On the 11th however we arrived at the fort which was still under the +charge of Mr. Weeks. He welcomed us in the most kind manner, +immediately gave us changes of dress, and did everything in his power +to make us comfortable. + +Our sensations on being once more in a comfortable dwelling after the +series of hardships and miseries we had experienced may be imagined. +Our first act was again to return our grateful praises to the Almighty +for the manifold instances of His mercy towards us. Having found here +some articles which Mr. Back had sent across from Moose-Deer Island I +determined on awaiting the arrival of Akaitcho and his party in order +to present these to them and to assure them of the promised reward as +soon as it could possibly be procured. + +In the afternoon of the 14th Akaitcho with his whole band came to the +fort. He smoked his customary pipe and made an address to Mr. Weeks in +the hall previous to his coming into the room in which Dr. Richardson +and I were. We discovered at the commencement of his speech to us that +he had been informed that our expected supplies had not come. He spoke +of this circumstance as a disappointment indeed sufficiently severe to +himself, to whom his band looked up for the protection of their +interests, but without attaching any blame to us. “The world goes +badly,” he said “all are poor; you are poor, the traders appear to be +poor, I and my party are poor likewise, and since the goods have not +come in we cannot have them. I do not regret having supplied you with +provisions for a Copper Indian can never permit white men to suffer +from want of food on his lands without flying to their aid. I trust +however that we shall, as you say, receive what is due next autumn, and +at all events,” he added in a tone of good humour, “it is the first +time that the white people have been indebted to the Copper Indians.” +We assured him the supplies should certainly be sent to him by the +autumn if not before. He then cheerfully received the small present we +made to himself and, although we could give a few things only to those +who had been most active in our service, the others who perhaps thought +themselves equally deserving did not murmur at being left out in the +distribution. Akaitcho afterwards expressed a strong desire that we +should represent the character of his nation in a favourable light to +our countrymen. “I know,” he said, “you write down every occurrence in +your books, but probably you have only noticed the bad things we have +said and done, and have omitted the good.” In the course of the +desultory conversation which ensued he said that he had been always +told by us to consider the traders in the same light as ourselves, and +that for his part he looked upon both as equally respectable. This +assurance, made in the presence of Mr. Weeks, was particularly +gratifying to us as it completely disproved the defence that had been +set up respecting the injurious reports circulated against us amongst +the Indians in the spring, namely that they were in retaliation for our +endeavours to lower the traders in the eyes of the Indians. I take this +opportunity of stating my opinion that Mr. Weeks, in spreading these +reports, was actuated by a mistaken idea that he was serving the +interest of his employers. On the present occasion we felt indebted to +him for the sympathy he displayed for our distresses, and the kindness +with which he administered to our personal wants. After this conference +such Indians as were indebted to the Company were paid for the +provision they had given us by deducting a corresponding sum from their +debts; in the same way we gave a reward of sixteen skins of beaver to +each of the persons who had come to our relief at Fort Enterprise. As +the debts of Akaitcho and his hunters had been effaced at the time of +his engagement with us we placed a sum equal to the amount of provision +they had recently supplied to their credit on the Company’s books. +These things being, through the moderation of the Indians, adjusted +with an unexpected facility, we gave them a keg of mixed liquors (five +parts water) and distributed among them several fathoms of tobacco, and +they retired to their tents to spend the night in merriment. + +Adam, our interpreter, being desirous of uniting himself with the +Copper Indians, applied to me for his discharge which I granted, and +gave him a bill on the Hudson’s Bay Company for the amount of his +wages. These arrangements being completed we prepared to cross the +lake. + +Mr. Weeks provided Dr. Richardson and I with a cariole each and we set +out at eleven A.M. on the 15th for Moose-Deer Island. Our party +consisted of Belanger who had charge of a sledge laden with the bedding +and drawn by two dogs, our two cariole men, Benoit and Augustus. +Previous to our departure we had another conference with Akaitcho who, +as well as the rest of his party, bade us farewell with a warmth of +manner rare among the Indians. + +The badness of Belanger’s dogs and the roughness of the ice impeded our +progress very much and obliged us to encamp early. We had a good fire +made of the driftwood which lines the shores of this lake in great +quantities. The next day was very cold. We began the journey at nine +A.M. and encamped at the Big Cape, having made another short march in +consequence of the roughness of the ice. + +On the 17th we encamped on the most southerly of the Reindeer Islands. +This night was very stormy but, the wind abating in the morning, we +proceeded and by sunset reached the fishing-huts of the Company at +Stony Point. Here we found Mr. Andrews, a clerk of the Hudson’s Bay +Company, who regaled us with a supper of excellent white-fish for which +this part of Slave Lake is particularly celebrated. Two men with +sledges arrived soon afterwards, sent by Mr. McVicar, who expected us +about this time. We set off in the morning before daybreak with several +companions and arrived at Moose-Deer Island about one P.M. Here we were +received with the utmost hospitality by Mr. McVicar, the chief trader +of the Hudson’s Bay Company in this district, as well as by his +assistant Mr. McAuley. We had also the happiness of joining our friend +Mr. Back; our feelings on this occasion can be well imagined and we +were deeply impressed with gratitude to him for his exertions in +sending the supply of food to Fort Enterprise, to which under Divine +Providence we felt the preservation of our lives to be owing. He gave +us an affecting detail of the proceedings of his party since our +separation, the substance of which I shall convey to the reader by the +following extracts from his Journal. + +MR. BACK’S NARRATIVE. + + +October 4, 1821. + +Captain Franklin having directed me to proceed with St. Germain, +Belanger, and Beauparlant to Fort Enterprise, in the hope of obtaining +relief for the party, I took leave of my companions and set out on my +journey through a very swampy country which, with the cloudy state of +the weather and a keen north-east wind, accompanied by frequent +snow-showers, retarded us so much that we had scarcely got more than +four miles before we halted for the night and made a meal of _tripe de +roche_ and some old leather. + +On the 5th we set out early amidst extremely deep snow, sinking +frequently in it up to the thighs, a labour in our enfeebled and almost +worn-out state that nothing but the cheering hopes of reaching the +house and affording relief to our friends could have enabled us to +support. As we advanced we found to our mortification that the _tripe +de roche_, hitherto our sole dependence, began to be scarce, so that we +could only collect sufficient to make half a kettleful which, with the +addition of a partridge each that St. Germain had killed, yielded a +tolerable meal; during this day I felt very weak and sore in the +joints, particularly between the shoulders. At eight we encamped among +a small clump of willows. + +On the 6th we set out at an early hour, pursuing our route over a range +of hills at the foot of one of which we saw several large pines and a +great quantity of willows, a sight that encouraged us to quicken our +pace as we were now certain we could not be far from the woods. Indeed +we were making considerable progress when Belanger unfortunately broke +through the ice and sank up to the hips. The weather being cold, he was +in danger of freezing, but some brushwood on the borders of the lake +enabled us to make a fire to dry him. At the same time we took the +opportunity of refreshing ourselves with a kettle of swamp tea. + +My increasing debility had for some time obliged me to use a stick for +the purpose of extending my arms, the pain in my shoulders being so +acute that I could not bear them to remain in the usual position for +two minutes together. We halted at five among some small brushwood and +made a sorry meal of an old pair of leather trousers and some swamp +tea. + +The night was cold with a hard frost and though two persons slept +together yet we could not by any means keep ourselves warm, but +remained trembling the whole time. The following morning we crossed +several lakes, occasionally seeing the recent tracks of deer, and at +noon we fell upon Marten Lake; it happened to be at the exact spot +where we had been the last year with the canoes yet, though I +immediately recognised the place, the men would not believe it to be +the same; at length by pointing out several marks and relating +circumstances connected with them they recovered their memory, and a +simultaneous expression of “Mon Dieu, nous sommes sauves,” broke from +the whole. Contrary to our expectations the lake was frozen +sufficiently to bear us, so that we were excused from making the tours +of the different bays. This circumstance seemed to impart fresh vigour +to us and we walked as fast as the extreme smoothness of the ice would +permit, intending to reach the Slave Rock that night, but an unforeseen +and almost fatal accident prevented the prosecution of our plan: +Belanger (who seemed the victim of misfortune) again broke through the +ice in a deep part near the head of the rapid, but was timely saved by +our fastening our worsted belts together and pulling him out. By urging +him forwards as quick as his icy garments would admit to prevent his +freezing, we reached a few pines and kindled a fire, but it was late +before he even felt warm, though he was so near the flame as to burn +his hair twice, and to add to our distress (since we could not pursue +them) three wolves crossed the lake close to us. + +The night of the 7th was extremely stormy and about ten the following +morning, on attempting to go on, we found it totally impossible, being +too feeble to oppose the wind and drift which frequently blew us over +and, on attempting to cross a small lake that lay in our way, drove us +faster backwards than with every effort we could get forwards; we +therefore encamped under the shelter of a small clump of pines, secure +from the south-west storm that was raging around us. In the evening, +there being no _tripe de roche_, we were compelled to satisfy, or +rather allay, the cravings of hunger by eating a gun cover and a pair +of old shoes; at this time I had scarcely strength to get on my legs. + +The wind did not in the least abate during the night but in the morning +of the 9th it changed to north-east and became moderate. We took +advantage of this circumstance and, rising with great difficulty, set +out, though had it not been for the hope of reaching the house I am +certain, from the excessive faintness which almost overpowered me, that +I must have remained where I was. We passed the Slave Rock and, making +frequent halts, arrived within a short distance of Fort Enterprise, but +as we perceived neither any marks of Indians nor even of animals, the +men began absolutely to despair, on a nearer approach however the +tracks of large herds of deer which had only passed a few hours tended +a little to revive their spirits, and shortly after we crossed the +ruinous threshold of the long-sought spot, but what was our surprise, +what our sensations, at beholding everything in the most desolate and +neglected state; the doors and windows of that room in which we +expected to find provision had been thrown down and the wild animals of +the woods had resorted there as to a place of shelter and retreat. Mr. +Wentzel had taken away the trunks and papers but had left no note to +guide us to the Indians. This was to us the most grievous +disappointment: without the assistance of the Indians, bereft of every +resource, we felt ourselves reduced to the most miserable state, which +was rendered still worse from the recollection that our friends in the +rear were as miserable as ourselves. For the moment however hunger +prevailed and each began to gnaw the scraps of putrid and frozen meat +that were lying about without waiting to prepare them. A fire however +was made and the neck and bones of a deer found in the house were +boiled and devoured. + +I determined to remain a day here to repose; then to go in search of +the Indians and, in the event of missing them, to proceed to the first +trading establishment which was distant about one hundred and thirty +miles, and from thence to send succour to my companions. This indeed I +should have done immediately as the most certain manner of executing my +purpose, had there been any probability of the river and lakes being +frozen to the southward, or had we possessed sufficient strength to +have clambered over the rocks and mountains which impeded the direct +way, but as we were aware of our inability to do so I listened to St. +Germain’s proposal, which was to follow the deer into the woods (so +long as they did not lead us out of our route to the Indians) and if +possible to collect sufficient food to carry us to Fort Providence. We +now set about making mittens and snowshoes whilst Belanger searched +under the snow and collected a mass of old bones which, when burned and +used with a little salt, we found palatable enough and made a tolerable +meal. At night St. Germain returned, having seen plenty of tracks but +no animals; the day was cloudy with fresh breezes and the river was +frozen at the borders. + +On the 11th we prepared for our journey, having first collected a few +old skins of deer to serve us as food, and written a note to be left +for our commander to apprise him of our intentions. We pursued the +course of the river to the lower lake when St. Germain fell in, which +obliged us to encamp directly to prevent his being frozen; indeed we +were all glad to rest for, in our meagre and reduced state, it was +impossible to resist the weather which at any other time would have +been thought fine; my toes were frozen and, although wrapped up in a +blanket, I could not keep my hands warm. + +The 12th was exceedingly cold with fresh breezes. Our meal at night +consisted of scraps of old deer-skins and swamp tea and the men +complained greatly of their increasing debility. The following morning +I sent St. Germain to hunt, intending to go some distance down the +lake, but the weather becoming exceedingly thick with snow-storms we +were prevented from moving. He returned without success, not having +seen any animals. We had nothing to eat. + +In the morning of the 14th the part of the lake before us was quite +frozen. There was so much uncertainty in St. Germain’s answers as to +the chance of any Indians being in the direction we were then going +(although he had previously said that the leader had told him he should +be there) and he gave so much dissatisfaction in his hunting excursions +that I was induced to send a note to the Commander, whom I supposed to +be by this time at Fort Enterprise, to inform him of our situation; not +that I imagined for a moment he could amend it, but that by all +returning to the fort we might perhaps have better success in hunting; +with this view I despatched Belanger, much against his inclination, and +told him to return as quickly as possible to a place about four miles +farther on where we intended to fish and to await his arrival. The men +were so weak this day that I could get neither of them to move from the +encampment, and it was only necessity that compelled them to cut wood +for fuel, in performing which operation Beauparlant’s face became so +dreadfully swelled that he could scarcely see; I myself lost my temper +on the most trivial circumstances and was become very peevish; the day +was fine but cold with a freezing north-east wind. We had nothing to +eat. + +October 15. + +The night was calm and clear but it was not before two in the afternoon +that we set out, and the one was so weak and the other so full of +complaints that we did not get more than three-quarters of a mile from +our last encampment before we were obliged to put up, but in this +distance we were fortunate enough to kill a partridge, the bones of +which were eaten and the remainder reserved for baits to fish with. We +however collected sufficient _tripe de roche_ to make a meal and I +anxiously awaited Belanger’s return to know what course to take. I was +now so much reduced that my shoulders were as if they would fall from +my body, my legs seemed unable to support me and, in the disposition in +which I then found myself, had it not been for the remembrance of my +friends behind who relied on me for relief as well as the persons of +whom I had charge, I certainly should have preferred remaining where I +was to the miserable pain of attempting to move. + +October 16. + +We waited until two in the afternoon for Belanger but, not seeing +anything of him on the lake, we set out, purposing to encamp at the +Narrows, the place which was said to be so good for fishing and where, +according to St. Germain’s account, the Indians never failed to catch +plenty; its distance at most could not be more than two miles. We had +not proceeded far before Beauparlant began to complain of increasing +weakness, but this was so usual with us that no particular notice was +taken of it, for in fact there was little difference, all being alike +feeble: among other things he said whilst we were resting that he +should never get beyond the next encampment for his strength had quite +failed him. I endeavoured to encourage him by explaining the mercy of +the Supreme Being who ever beholds with an eye of pity those that seek +His aid. This passed as common discourse. When he inquired where we +were to put up St. Germain pointed to a small clump of pines near us, +the only place indeed that offered for fuel. “Well,” replied the poor +man, “take your axe, Mr. Back, and I will follow at my leisure, I shall +join you by the time the encampment is made.” This is a usual practice +of the country and St. Germain and myself went on towards the spot; it +was five o’clock and not very cold but rather milder than we had +experienced it for some time when, on leaving the ice, we saw a number +of crows perched on the top of some high pines near us. St. Germain +immediately said there must be some dead animal thereabouts and +proceeded to search, when we saw several heads of deer half buried in +the snow and ice without eyes or tongues, the previous severity of the +weather having obliged the wolves and other animals to abandon them. An +expression of “Oh merciful God! we are saved,” broke from us both, and +with feelings more easily imagined than described we shook hands, not +knowing what to say for joy. It was twilight and a fog was rapidly +darkening the surface of the lake when St. Germain commenced making the +encampment; the task was too laborious for me to render him any +assistance and, had we not thus providentially found provision, I feel +convinced that the next twenty-four hours would have terminated my +existence. But this good fortune in some measure renovated me for the +moment and, putting out my whole strength, I contrived to collect a few +heads and with incredible difficulty carried them singly about thirty +paces to the fire. + +Darkness stole on us apace and I became extremely anxious about +Beauparlant; several guns were fired to each of which he answered. We +then called out and again heard his responses though faintly, when I +told St. Germain to go and look for him as I had not strength myself, +being quite exhausted. He said that he had already placed a pine branch +on the ice and he could then scarcely find his way back, but if he went +now he should certainly be lost. In this situation I could only hope +that, as Beauparlant had my blanket and everything requisite to light a +fire, he might have encamped at a little distance from us. + +October 17. + +The night was cold and clear but we could not sleep at all from the +pains of having eaten. We suffered the most excruciating torments +though I in particular did not eat a quarter of what would have +satisfied me; it might have been from using a quantity of raw or frozen +sinews of the legs of deer, which neither of us could avoid doing, so +great was our hunger. In the morning, being much agitated for the +safety of Beauparlant, I desired St. Germain to go in search of him and +to return with him as quick as possible, when I would have something +prepared for them to eat. + +It was however late when he arrived, with a small bundle which +Beauparlant was accustomed to carry and, with tears in his eyes, told +me that he had found our poor companion dead. Dead! I could not believe +him. “It is so sir,” said St. Germain, “after hallooing and calling his +name to no purpose I went towards our last encampment about +three-quarters of a mile and found him stretched upon his back on a +sandbank frozen to death, his limbs all extended and swelled enormously +and as hard as the ice that was near him; his bundle was behind him as +if it had rolled away when he fell, and the blanket which he wore +around his neck and shoulders thrown on one side. Seeing that there was +no longer life in him I threw your covering over him and placed his +snowshoes on the top of it.” + +I had not even thought of so serious an occurrence in our little party +and for a short time was obliged to give vent to my grief. Left with +one person and both of us weak, no appearance of Belanger, a likelihood +that great calamity had taken place amongst our other companions, still +upwards of seventeen days’ march from the nearest establishment, and +myself unable to carry a burden; all these things pressed heavy on me, +and how to get to the Indians or to the fort I did not know but, that I +might not depress St. Germain’s spirits, I suppressed the feelings to +which these thoughts gave rise and made some arrangements for the +journey to Fort Providence. + +October 18. + +While we were this day occupied in scraping together the remains of +some deer’s meat we observed Belanger coming round a point apparently +scarcely moving. I went to meet him and made immediate inquiries about +my friends. Five, with the Captain, he said, were at the house, the +rest were left near the river unable to proceed, but he was too weak to +relate the whole. He was conducted to the encampment and paid every +attention to, and by degrees we heard the remainder of his tragic tale, +at which the interpreter could not avoid crying. He then gave me a +letter from my friend the Commander which indeed was truly afflicting. +The simple story of Belanger I could hear, but when I read it in +another language, mingled with the pious resignation of a good man, I +could not sustain it any longer. The poor man was much affected at the +death of our lamented companion but his appetite prevailed over every +other feeling and, had I permitted it, he would have done himself an +injury; for after two hours’ eating, principally skin and sinews, he +complained of hunger. The day was cloudy with snow and fresh breezes +from the north-east by east. + +The last evening as well as this morning the 19th I mentioned my wishes +to the men that we should proceed towards Reindeer Lake, but this +proposal met with a direct refusal. Belanger stated his inability to +move and St. Germain used similar language, adding for the first time +that he did not know the route, and that it was of no use to go in the +direction I mentioned, which was the one agreed upon between the +Commander and myself. I then insisted that we should go by the known +route and join the Commander, but they would not hear of it; they would +remain where they were until they had regained their strength; they +said I wanted to expose them again to death (_faire perir_). In vain +did I use every argument to the contrary for they were equally heedless +to all. Thus situated I was compelled to remain, and from this time to +the 25th we employed ourselves in looking about for the remnants of the +deer and pieces of skin which even the wolves had left and, by pounding +the bones, we were enabled to make a sort of soup which strengthened us +greatly, though each still complained of weakness. It was not without +the greatest difficulty that I could restrain the men from eating every +scrap they found, though they were well aware of the necessity there +was of being economical in our present situation and to save whatever +they could for our journey; yet they could not resist the temptation +and whenever my back was turned they seldom failed to snatch at the +nearest piece to them, whether cooked or raw. + +We had set fishing-lines but without any success, and we often saw +large herds of deer crossing the lake at full speed and wolves pursuing +them. + +The night of the 25th was cold with hard frost. Early the next morning +I sent the men to cover the body of our departed companion Beauparlant +with the trunks and branches of trees which they did and, shortly after +their return, I opened his bundle and found it contained two papers of +vermilion, several strings of beads, some fire-steels, flints, awls, +fish-hooks, rings, linen, and the glass of an artificial horizon. My +two men began to recover a little as well as myself, though I was by +far the weakest of the three; the soles of my feet were cracked all +over and the other parts were as hard as horn from constant walking. I +again urged the necessity of advancing to join the Commander’s party +but they said they were not sufficiently strong. + +On the 27th we discovered the remains of a deer on which we feasted. +The night was unusually cold and ice formed in a pint-pot within two +feet of the fire. The coruscations of the Aurora Borealis were +beautifully brilliant; they served to show us eight wolves which we had +some trouble to frighten away from our collection of deer’s bones and, +between their howling and the constant cracking of the ice, we did not +get much rest. + +Having collected with great care and by self-denial two small packets +of dried meat or sinews sufficient (for men who knew what it was to +fast) to last for eight days at the rate of one indifferent meal per +day, we prepared to set out on the 30th. I calculated that we should be +about fourteen days in reaching Fort Providence and, allowing that we +neither killed deer nor found Indians, we could but be unprovided with +food six days and this we heeded not whilst the prospect of obtaining +full relief was before us. Accordingly we set out against a keen +north-east wind in order to gain the known route to Fort Providence. We +saw a number of wolves and some crows on the middle of the lake and, +supposing such an assemblage was not met idly, we made for them and +came in for a share of a deer which they had killed a short time +before, and thus added a couple of meals to our stock. By four P.M. we +gained the head of the lake or the direct road to Fort Providence and, +some dry wood being at hand, we encamped; by accident it was the same +place where the Commander’s party had slept on the 19th, the day on +which I supposed they had left Fort Enterprise, but the encampment was +so small that we feared great mortality had taken place amongst them, +and I am sorry to say the stubborn resolution of my men not to go to +the house prevented me from determining this most anxious point, so +that I now almost dreaded passing their encampments lest I should see +some of our unfortunate friends dead at each spot. Our fire was hardly +kindled when a fine herd of deer passed close to us. St. Germain +pursued them a short distance but with his usual want of success so +that we made a meal off the muscles and sinews we had dried, though +they were so tough that we could scarcely cut them. My hands were +benumbed throughout the march and we were all stiff and fatigued. The +marching of two days weakened us all very much and the more so on +account of our exertion to follow the tracks of our Commander’s party, +but we lost them and concluded that they were not before us. Though the +weather was not cold I was frozen in the face and was so reduced and +affected by these constant calamities, as well in mind as in body, that +I found much difficulty in proceeding even with the advantages I had +enjoyed. + +November 3. + +We set out before day, though in fact we were all much fitter to remain +from the excessive pain which we suffered in our joints, and proceeded +till one P.M. without halting, when Belanger who was before stopped and +cried out “Footsteps of Indians.” It is needless to mention the joy +that brightened the countenances of each at this unlooked-for sight; we +knew relief must be at hand and considered our sufferings at an end. +St. Germain inspected the tracks and said that three persons had passed +the day before, and that he knew the remainder must be advancing to the +southward as was customary with these Indians when they sent to the +trading establishment on the first ice. On this information we encamped +and, being too weak to walk myself, I sent St. Germain to follow the +tracks, with instructions to the chief of the Indians to provide +immediate assistance for such of our friends as might be at Fort +Enterprise, as well as for ourselves, and to lose no time in returning +to me. I was now so exhausted that, had we not seen the tracks this +day, I must have remained at the next encampment until the men could +have sent aid from Fort Providence. We had finished our small portion +of sinews and were preparing for rest when an Indian boy made his +appearance with meat. St. Germain had arrived before sunset at the +tents of Akaitcho whom he found at the spot where he had wintered last +year, but imagine my surprise when he gave me a note from the Commander +and said that Benoit and Augustus, two of the men, had just joined +them. The note was so confused by the pencil marks being partly rubbed +out that I could not decipher it clearly, but it informed me that he +had attempted to come with the two men but, finding his strength +inadequate to the task, he relinquished his design and returned to Fort +Enterprise to await relief with the others. There was another note for +the gentleman in charge of Fort Providence desiring him to send meat, +blankets, shoes, and tobacco. Akaitcho wished me to join him on the +ensuing day at a place which the boy knew where they were going to +fish, and I was the more anxious to do so on account of my companions, +but particularly that I might hear a full relation of what had happened +and of the Commander’s true situation, which I suspected to be much +worse than he had described. + +In the afternoon I joined the Indians and repeated to Akaitcho what St. +Germain had told him; he seemed much affected and said he would have +sent relief directly though I had not been there; indeed his conduct +was generous and humane. The next morning at an early hour three +Indians with loaded sledges of meat, skins, shoes, and a blanket, set +out for Fort Enterprise; one of them was to return directly with an +answer from Captain Franklin to whom I wrote but, in the event of his +death, he was to bring away all the papers he could find, and he +promised to travel with such haste as to be able to return to us on the +fourth day. I was now somewhat more at ease, having done all in my +power to succour my unfortunate companions, but was very anxious for +the return of the messenger. The Indians brought me meat in small +quantities though sufficient for our daily consumption and, as we had a +little ammunition, many were paid on the spot for what they gave. + +On the 9th I had the satisfaction of seeing the Indian arrive from Fort +Enterprise. At first he said they were all dead but shortly after he +gave me a note which was from the Commander and then I learned all the +fatal particulars which had befallen them. I now proposed that the +chief should immediately send three sledges loaded with meat to Fort +Enterprise, should make a _cache_ of provision at our present +encampment, and also that he should here await the arrival of the +Commander. By noon two large trains laden with meat were sent off for +Fort Enterprise. The next day we proceeded on our journey and arrived +at Fort Providence on the 21st of November. + +CONCLUSION OF MR. BACK’S NARRATIVE. + +CONCLUSION. + +I have little now to add to the melancholy detail into which I felt it +proper to enter, but I cannot omit to state that the unremitting care +and attentions of our kind friends Mr. McVicar and Mr. McAuley, united +with our improved diet to promote to the restoration of our health, so +that by the end of February the swellings of our limbs which had +returned upon us entirely subsided, and we were able to walk to any +part of the island. Our appetites gradually moderated and we nearly +regained our ordinary state of body before the spring. Hepburn alone +suffered from a severe attack of rheumatism which confined him to his +bed for some weeks. The usual symptoms of spring having appeared, on +the 25th of May we prepared to embark for Fort Chipewyan. Fortunately +on the following morning a canoe arrived from that place with the whole +of the stores which we required for the payment of Akaitcho and the +hunters. It was extremely gratifying to us to be thus enabled, previous +to our departure, to make arrangements respecting the requital of our +late Indian companions, and the more so as we had recently discovered +that Akaitcho and the whole of his tribe, in consequence of the death +of the leader’s mother and the wife of our old guide Keskarrah, had +broken and destroyed every useful article belonging to them and were in +the greatest distress. It was an additional pleasure to find our stock +of ammunition more than sufficient to pay them what was due, and that +we could make a considerable present of this most essential article to +every individual that had been attached to the Expedition. + +We quitted Moose-Deer Island at five P.M. on the 26th, accompanied by +Mr. McVicar and Mr. McAuley and nearly all the voyagers at the +establishment, having resided there about five months, not a day of +which had passed without our having cause of gratitude for the kind and +unvaried attentions of Mr. McVicar and Mr. McAuley. These gentlemen +accompanied us as far as Fort Chipewyan where we arrived on the 2nd of +June, here we met Mr. Wentzel and the four men who had been sent with +him from the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, and I think it due to that +gentleman to give his own explanation of the unfortunate circumstances +which prevented him from fulfilling my instructions respecting the +provisions to have been left for us at Fort Enterprise.[35] + +In a subsequent conversation he stated to me that the two Indians who +were actually with him at Fort Enterprise whilst he remained there +altering his canoe were prevented from hunting, one by an accidental +lameness, the other by the fear of meeting alone some of the Dog-Rib +Indians. + +We were here furnished with a canoe by Mr. Smith and a bowman to act as +our guide and, having left Fort Chipewyan on the 5th, we arrived on the +4th of July at Norway House. Finding at this place that canoes were +about to go down to Montreal I gave all our Canadian voyagers their +discharges and sent them by those vessels, furnishing them with orders +on the Agent of the Hudson’s Bay Company for the amount of their wages. +We carried Augustus down to York Factory where we arrived on the 14th +of July, and were received with every mark of attention and kindness by +Mr. Simpson the Governor, Mr. McTavish, and indeed by all the officers +of the United Companies. And thus terminated our long, fatiguing, and +disastrous travels in North America, having journeyed by water and by +land (including our navigation of the Polar Sea) five thousand five +hundred and fifty miles. + +MR. WENTZEL’S EXPLANATION. + + + [35] After you sent me back from the mouth of the Copper-Mine River + and I had overtaken the Leader, Guides, and Hunters, on the fifth day, + leaving the sea-coast, as well as our journey up the River, they + always expressed the same desire of fulfilling their promises, + although somewhat dissatisfied at being exposed to privation while on + our return from a scarcity of animals for, as I have already stated in + my first communication from Moose-Deer Island, we had been eleven days + with no other food but _tripe de roche_. In the course of this time an + Indian with his wife and child, who were travelling in company with + us, were left in the rear and are since supposed to have perished + through want, as no intelligence had been received of them at Fort + Providence in December last. On the seventh day after I had joined the + Leader, etc. etc., and journeying on together, all the Indians + excepting Petit Pied and Bald-Head left me to seek their families and + crossed Point Lake at the Crow’s Nest, where Humpy had promised to + meet his brother Ekehcho[36] with the families but did not fulfil, nor + did any of my party of Indians know where to find them, for we had + frequently made fires to apprise them of our approach yet none + appeared in return as answers. This disappointment as might be + expected served to increase the ill-humour of the Leader and party, + the brooding of which (agreeably to Indian custom) was liberally + discharged on me, in bitter reproach for having led them from their + families and exposed them to dangers and hardships which, but for my + influence, they said they might have spared themselves. Nevertheless + they still continued to profess the sincerest desire of meeting your + wishes in making _caches_ of provisions and remaining until a late + season on the road that leads from Fort Enterprise to Fort Providence, + through which the Expedition-men had travelled so often the year + before, remarking however at the same time that they had not the least + hopes of ever seeing one person return from the Expedition. These + alarming fears I never could persuade them to dismiss from their + minds; they always sneered at what they called my credulity. “If,” + said the Gros Pied[37] “the Great Chief (meaning Captain Franklin) or + any of his party should pass at my tents, he or they shall be welcome + to all my provisions or anything else that I may have.” And I am + sincerely happy to understand by your communication that in this he + had kept his word, in sending you with such promptitude and liberality + the assistance your truly dreadful situation required. But the party + of Indians on whom I had placed the utmost confidence and dependence + was Humpy and the White Capot Guide with their sons and several of the + discharged hunters from the Expedition. This party was well-disposed + and readily promised to collect provisions for the possible return of + the Expedition, provided they could get a supply of ammunition from + Fort Providence, for when I came up with them they were actually + starving and converting old axes into ball, having no other + substitute; this was unlucky. Yet they were well inclined and I + expected to find means at Fort Providence to send them a supply, in + which I was however disappointed, for I found that establishment quite + destitute of necessaries, and then shortly after I had left them they + had the misfortune of losing three of their hunters who were drowned + in Marten Lake; this accident was of all others the most fatal that + could have happened, a truth which no one who has the least knowledge + of the Indian character will deny, and as they were nearly connected + by relationship to the Leader, Humpy, and White Capot Guide, the three + leading men of this part of the Copper Indian Tribe, it had the effect + of unhinging (if I may use the expression) the minds of all these + families and finally destroying all the fond hopes I had so sanguinely + conceived of their assisting the Expedition, should it come back by + the Annadessé River of which they were not certain. + As to my not leaving a letter at Fort Enterprise it was because by + some mischance you had forgot to give me paper when we parted.[38] + I however wrote this news on a plank in pencil and placed it in the + top of your former bedstead where I left it. Since it has not been + found there some Indians must have gone to the house after my + departure and destroyed it. These details, Sir, I have been induced + to enter into (rather unexpectedly) in justification of myself and + hope it will be satisfactory. + + + [36] Akaitcho the Leader + + + [37] Also Akaitcho. + + + [38] I certainly offered Mr. Wentzel some paper when he quitted us but + he declined it, having then a notebook, and Mr. Back gave him a + pencil. + + + + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JOURNEY TO THE POLAR SEA *** + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions will +be renamed. + +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the +United States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part +of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project +Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ +concept and trademark. Project Gutenberg is a registered trademark, +and may not be used if you charge for an eBook, except by following +the terms of the trademark license, including paying royalties for use +of the Project Gutenberg trademark. If you do not charge anything for +copies of this eBook, complying with the trademark license is very +easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose such as creation +of derivative works, reports, performances and research. Project +Gutenberg eBooks may be modified and printed and given away--you may +do practically ANYTHING in the United States with eBooks not protected +by U.S. copyright law. Redistribution is subject to the trademark +license, especially commercial redistribution. + +START: FULL LICENSE + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project +Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full +Project Gutenberg™ License available with this file or online at +www.gutenberg.org/license. + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project +Gutenberg™ electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or +destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in your +possession. If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a +Project Gutenberg™ electronic work and you do not agree to be bound +by the terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the +person or entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph +1.E.8. + +1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow the terms of this +agreement and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg™ +electronic works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the +Foundation” or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection +of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. Nearly all the individual +works in the collection are in the public domain in the United +States. If an individual work is unprotected by copyright law in the +United States and you are located in the United States, we do not +claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, performing, +displaying or creating derivative works based on the work as long as +all references to Project Gutenberg are removed. Of course, we hope +that you will support the Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting +free access to electronic works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ +works in compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the +Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can easily +comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping this work in the +same format with its attached full Project Gutenberg™ License when +you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are +in a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, +check the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this +agreement before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, +distributing or creating derivative works based on this work or any +other Project Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no +representations concerning the copyright status of any work in any +country other than the United States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other +immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License must appear +prominently whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg™ work (any work +on which the phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the +phrase “Project Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, +performed, viewed, copied or distributed: + + This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and + most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no + restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it + under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this + eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the + United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where + you are located before using this eBook. + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is +derived from texts not protected by U.S. copyright law (does not +contain a notice indicating that it is posted with permission of the +copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed to anyone in +the United States without paying any fees or charges. If you are +redistributing or providing access to a work with the phrase “Project +Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the work, you must comply +either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 or +obtain permission for the use of the work and the Project Gutenberg™ +trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any +additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms +will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ License for all works +posted with the permission of the copyright holder found at the +beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™ +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg™. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg™ License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including +any word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access +to or distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg™ work in a format +other than “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official +version posted on the official Project Gutenberg™ website +(www.gutenberg.org), you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense +to the user, provide a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means +of obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original “Plain +Vanilla ASCII” or other form. Any alternate format must include the +full Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works +provided that: + +• You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg™ works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed + to the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but he has + agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid + within 60 days following each date on which you prepare (or are + legally required to prepare) your periodic tax returns. Royalty + payments should be clearly marked as such and sent to the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the address specified in + Section 4, “Information about donations to the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation.” + +• You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ + License. You must require such a user to return or destroy all + copies of the works possessed in a physical medium and discontinue + all use of and all access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ + works. + +• You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of + any money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days of + receipt of the work. + +• You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg™ works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project +Gutenberg™ electronic work or group of works on different terms than +are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing +from the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the manager of +the Project Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set +forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +works not protected by U.S. copyright law in creating the Project +Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg™ +electronic works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may +contain “Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate +or corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other +intellectual property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or +other medium, a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or +cannot be read by your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right +of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium +with your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you +with the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in +lieu of a refund. If you received the work electronically, the person +or entity providing it to you may choose to give you a second +opportunity to receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If +the second copy is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing +without further opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’, WITH NO +OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT +LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of +damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement +violates the law of the state applicable to this agreement, the +agreement shall be interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or +limitation permitted by the applicable state law. The invalidity or +unenforceability of any provision of this agreement shall not void the +remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works in +accordance with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the +production, promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg™ +electronic works, harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, +including legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of +the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this +or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) alteration, modification, or +additions or deletions to any Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any +Defect you cause. + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg™ + +Project Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of +computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It +exists because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations +from people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™'s +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future +generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, see +Sections 3 and 4 and the Foundation information page at +www.gutenberg.org. + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non-profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by +U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation’s business office is located at 809 North 1500 West, +Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887. Email contact links and up +to date contact information can be found at the Foundation’s website +and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact. + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without +widespread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine-readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To SEND +DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any particular +state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate. + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To +donate, please visit: www.gutenberg.org/donate. + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg™ electronic works + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project +Gutenberg™ concept of a library of electronic works that could be +freely shared with anyone. For forty years, he produced and +distributed Project Gutenberg™ eBooks with only a loose network of +volunteer support. + +Project Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as not protected by copyright in +the U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not +necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper +edition. + +Most people start at our website which has the main PG search +facility: www.gutenberg.org. + +This website includes information about Project Gutenberg™, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + |